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AMERICAN
COORERY
FORMERLY X Rec'dX
THE BOSTON
:a)KING SCHOOLMAGAZINE
F CULINARY- SCIENCEand DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS
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JUNE-JULY, 1916
Vol. XXI No. 1
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PUBLISHED
THE BOSTON COOKING
5CH(!DL MAGAZINE C^
221 COLUMBUS Ay»
BOSTON MASS.
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For Pure Food and Household Economy
It is essential in the making of raised foods that you choose a leavener
of known purity and uniform strength— one that not only raises the cake,
biscuit or muffin just right, but that adds something of nutritive value.
RUMFORD
THE WHOLESOME
BAKING POWDER
restores in part, the nutritious and health-g-iving- properties
of which fine wheat flour has been deprived, making- all home
baking- more nutritious, more easily digested and of better
flavor and texture. Furthermore, you cannot help but re-
alize a saving in money and material by using Rumford.
Ask us to mail you, FREE, a copy of "Rumford Dainties
and Household Helps." In their daily work Housekeepers
will find this a most useful ard helpful book.
RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R. I.
SUMFORJl
SAKINOI
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P^orm baking quaWy*^
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For every penny of its selling price it g'ives tKe fullest measvire
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cans — insvires its delivery in perfect condition.
American Cookery
FORMERLY
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine
OF
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics
VOLUMK XXI
June-July, 1916 — May, 1917
Published Monthly by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
/3
Copyright, 1916, 1917, by„Ti?,E Boston Cooking-School Magazine COo
COMPLETE INDEX, VOLUME XXI
June-July, 1916— May, 1917
PAGE
Ah Sing's Coals of Fire 202
Apostles of the New 220
Art in Cookery 299
Artistic Flower Arrangement . . . . 102
Bedside Breakfasts - . . 667
Belgium and the Food Question . . . 356
Birds' Christmas Tree, The .... 362
Buckwheat, A Partial Substitute for Wheat 702
Business Woman's Ideas of Housekeeping 684
Cake and Cake-AIaking 540
Cake Frostings 620
Call of the Quail, The 623
Care of Digestion, The 442
Cast Thy Bread 439
Center Ivlarket, Washington, 111. . . . 510
Cooking Out-of-Doors 44
Cross-Roads Tea House, The .... 518
Crumbs from the Table d'Hote . . . 434--
Delights of Food Eaten al Fresco ... 99
Diet Squad and the Average Housekeeper,
The 595
Dietetic Cure for Rheumatism ... 26
Double Professional, A 106, 192
Economies of the French Housekeeper, The 670
Economy In Demand 380
Economy in Food 460
Editorials, 30, 118, 206, 286, 366, 446, 526
606, 686, 766
English Walnut Trees 204
Farm Home-Study Tour, The . . . . 427
Feeding Cupid 591
Foresight and the Everlasting Question . 462
Frau Baum's Torte 364
French Cook's Batterie de Cuisine . . 752
Grandmother's Ginger Cookies . . . 704
Hallowe'en Merriment 200
Hawaii's Immense Field of Pineapples, 111. 507
HomecomlngjThe . . . . , , . 283
Home Ideas and Economies, 51, 139, 227, 305
386, 466, 547, 627, 707, 787
Home Maker's Winter Vacation, The . 445
Important Part Flowers Play orn the
Luncheon Table 267
Joseph's Pie Theory 675
Lighthouse, The 464
Luncheon Without a Maid, A . . . . 603
Making a Living- Room of the Porch . 11
Making of a Mouse, The 756
Making the Back Yard Attractive . . . 747
Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by
West Swamp Mennonites . . . . 187
Mary, The Queen of Custards . . . 599
May Breakfasts 745
Menus, 9, 42, 43, 130, 131, 185, 218, 219, 265
297, 298, 345, 378, 379, 458, 459, 505, 538,
539,585, 618,-619, 698, 699, 778, 779
Morning Time, The 365
Mountains, The 678
My Mother's Cook Book 761
Nature's Appeal Ill
New Books 318,476,720
New Year Luncheon, A 358
On a Sleeping Porch 706
On Being Early In the Country. ... 49
Origin and Meaning of Culinary Terms 383, 624
Our Daily Bread or Three Meals a Day . 132
Paneled Walls for Small Houses ... 587
PAGE
Party for St. Valentine's Day .... 545
Pedigree of the American Boiled Dinner,
The 512
Perfect Cake, A 196
Phyllis Provides 115
Pie and Patriotism, A True Story of a
Thanksgiving Celebration . . . . 272
Preparation of Food and its Relation to
Health, The 524
Preserving Eggs 222
Pretty Salad Garnishes 304
Psychological Boarding House, A . . . 679
Shakespeare's Vegetables 137
Silver Lining, The 66, 147, 242, 322, 400, 482, 558
638, 716, 798
Simplified Bungalow Life 116
Standing In the Food-Line in Paris . .18
Starving Humanity 284
Stirrup Cup, The 195
Student Dietitian, The ..... 597
Suggestions for Five O'Clock Tea . . . 425
Suggestions for Sandwiches and Simple
Dinners for August 97
Summer Drinks 135
Talks to a Normal Class. . . .280,360,542
S10,000 For a Dinner 431
Therapeutic Value of Fruits and Vegetables 783
Through Peace to Light 46
Triumph of Trout Cookery, The . . . 522
Vital Factor inthe Making of a Good House-
keeper, A . . 759
Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pav, A 347
Wayside Oven, A '. . 225
Weather to Order 112
W^hat Does Your Face Say . . . .278
What Housekeepers Need Know about
Nutrition 700, 780
Winter Dinner that Men Like , A . . 463
Work and Wages vs. Years 110
Ye Beefsteak House _ 275
Yesterday and Today in Silver . . 765
Seasonable and Tested Recipes
Apples a la Manhattan 617
Asparagus, with Cheese Sauce, 111. . 609, 612
Asparagus with Melted Butter . . . . 774
Barquettes of Peas and Radishes . . . 610
Beefsteak, Round, and Potato Mold . . 691
Beef Tenderloin, Chaudfrold of. 111. 34
Beef Tenderloin, Minions of, Home Stvie,
111.. ' . 370
Biscuit, Buttercup 127
Biscuits, Peanut Butter, 111 614
Bisque, Pimento 449
Bluefish, Filets of, Duxelles Style . . . 770
Boiled Dinner, New England, 111. ... 292
Bonnes Bouches, Cold 289
Boulllion, Chicken-and-Tomato . . . 449
Bread, Bran 614
Bread, Gluten, 111 373
Bread, Oatmeal, 111 533
Bread, Steamed Brown, 111 613
Breadstlcks, Bran 697
Buns, Philadelphia Butter 217
Butter, Maltre d'Hotel 453
Cake, Blueberry Tea 37
Cake, Bride's, 111. ' 41, 617
111
AMERICAN COOKERY
PAGE
Cake, Good Plain Chocolate . . . . 777
Cake, Graham Cracker, 111 40
Cake, Heart, Decorated with Cherries, III. 536
Cake, Lemon Queens. . ... . . 215
Cake, Maple Syrup 776
Cake, Nut, 111 373
Cake, Ribbon, 111 . . 537
Cake, St. Honore, 111. 696
Cake, Sponge Pound, 111. . . . . . 536
Cake, Sponge Pound, Heart's Valentine
Style, 111 536
Cake, Spring, 111. ....... 615
Cake, Sunshine . . . . . . . . 777
Cakes, Afternoon Tea, 111. 614
Cakes, Brioche Coffee, 111 537
Cakes, Heart .377
Canapes, Anchovy-and-Egg .... 209
Caramels, Quick Chocolate . . . . 377
Cassolettes, Beet ........ 610
Charlotte Russe, Christmas, 111. . . . 377
Cheese Boats, Little 289
Chicken, Casserole of, with Macaroni, 111. 531
Chicken Galantine, Grape Decoration, 111. 293
Chicken Left Over, Spanish Style, 111. . 533
Chicken, Roast, Celery Stuffing, Sausage,
111. . . ^ 370
Chicken Saute . 125
Chicken Smothered in Fresh Mushrooms,
111 ^ 691
Chicken Smothered in Oysters . . ». .457
Chicken, Steamed, with Biscuit, 111. . . 292
Chicken Timbale, Valentine Style, 111. . 531
Chicken, Turkish 211
Chops, Flank Ends of, en Casserole, 111. 454
Chops, Lamb, with Bacon and Mushrooms,
111 453
Chowder, Fresh Fish, 111. . . . . 33, 121
Clam Bannock, New York Style . . . 291
Codfish, Creamed Salt, 111 611
Cornbread, Country Style 129
Corncake . 291
Corn, Cream of, St. Germain .... 450
Corn, Sweet, Roasted 126
Cream, Chocolate Bavarian, 111. . . . 296
Cream Glace, Tomato 614
Cream, Pear Bavarian, 111. . . . . . 777.
Cream, Vanilla Bavarian 697
Crescents, Puff-Paste, 111 377
Croquettes, Curried Fish, III 122
Croquettes, Fish, 111 770
Croutons, Extract of Beef-Ham . . . 124
Croutons, Finger 530
Crusts for Soup, Deviled 127
Cucumbers, Stuffed . 126
Custard, Molded 697
Cutlets, Rice, with Peas and Cheese Sauce 612
Cutlets, Stuffed Veal, en Casserole, 111. . 36
Delight, Vassar's 216
Dressing, Bread for Veal 772
Dressing for Salad, French 37
Dressing, Mayonnaise, 111. .... 456
Dumplings, Peach, 111. ...... 127
Dumplings, Apple, 111 535
Dumplings for Veal Pot Pic . . . . 772
Eggs .^ la Messina 122
Eggs a la St. Jacques 690
Eggs, Shirred with Asparagus, etc. . . 773
Eggs Shirred with Sausage, 111. ... 37
Figs Stewed, Lemon Jelly and Custard, 111. 536
Filling, Marshmallow 38
Fish, Baked in Crust, York Beach Style, 111. 290
Fishballs, Jerusalem ....... 121
PAGE
Fishcakes, 111. 211
Fish, Fried Filets of 456
Fish, Point Shirley Style . . . . .210
Fish, Sword or Chicken Halibut, Point
Shirley Stvle, 111 210
Flounder, Sur le Plat, 111 453
Fondant, Balls, Chocolate, 111. ... 376
Fondant, Chocolate 377
Fondu, Cheese 213
Forcemeat, Veal, for Ham 612
Frosting, Boiled . ; 215
Frosting, Caramel 777
Frosting, Confectioners' 374
Frosting, Confectioners' Chocolate . . 38
Frosting, Mocha . ' 776
Frosting, Ornamental, 111 374
Frosting, Ornamental, Piping of. 111. . . 615
Gingerbread, Scotch 215
Gingersnaps, Bermuda, 111. .... 375
Griddlecakes, Elizabeth's 129
Halibut, Fried Whitebait Style . . . 611
Halibut, Hearts of with Tomato Sauce, 111. 451
Ham, Baked, Autumn Style . . . . 124
Ham, Boned, Stuffed with Forcemeat, 111. 612
Ham, Braised, with Dried Mushrooms . 34
Ham, Deviled 212
Heart of Palm, Bechamel Sauce, 111. . . 774
Hermits 216
Hermits, Molasses 617
Hominy Boulettes, 111 773-
Ice Cream, Alanhattan 127
Ice Cream, Queen Style . . . . . . 128
Jam, Rhubarb 697
Jam, Tomato 128
Jelly, Orange Mint 457
Jumbles, Orange, Cocoanut, 111. . . . 375
Jumbles, Wafer, 111 ." . . 376
Junket, 111 777
Kidneys, Brochette of Lamb . . . .452
Lamb, Roast Leg of, 111 212
Lamb, Roast Leg of, Breton Style, 111. . 123
Leeks, Boiled, Hollandaise Sauce . . . 371
Livers, Chicken, and Bacon .... 126
Macaroni, Queen Style, 111 454
Macaroons, Butter _ 617
Moreno Mayonnaise 456
Mousse or Parfait, Chocolate .... 296
Muffins, Delicate 129
Muffins, Golden Cream 217
Muffins, Sally Lunn 217
Mushrooms and Bacon, Brochette of. 111. 453
Mutton, Brochette of. Deviled . . . . 452
Noodles, Soubise Style 35
Olives Stuffed with Anchovies .... 690
Omelet, Melba Style, 111 39
Onions, Puree of 770
Oysters, Brochette of 452
Oysters, Chaudfroid of 690
Oysters in Ramekins, au Gratin, 111. . . 452
Oysters, Villeroi Style, 111 532
Parfait, Caramel Marshm'allow, 111. . . 695
Pastry, Plain, Flaky . 295
Peaches, Windsor Style, 111 127
Pickerel, Fried, 111 210
Pie, Apple Flaky Crust, 111 295
Pie, Cream Rhubarb 38
Pie, Filling for Pumpkin, 111 295
Pie, Fish, 111 770
Pie, Lemon, 111 694
Pie, Pineapple 39
Pie, Pineapple Filling ...... 39
Popover, Choice 216
COMPLETE INDEX
PAGE
Potato, Subrics of ....... 451
Potato, Sweet, French Fried, 111. . . . 693
Potato with Onion Puree . . . . . 613
Potatoes, Franconia, 111 212
Potatoes, Glazed . . . . . . . 372
Potatoes, Home Style 457
Potatoes, Hongroise . . . • . . . 457
Potatoes, Parisienne 370
Potatoes, with Cheese, 111 533
Pudding, Banana ........ 695
Pudding, Indian Style 129
Pudding, Princess, with Alarshniallows . 128
Pudding, Steamed (no eggsj . ... . 697
Pudding, Steamed Date 216
Pudding, X'irginia Kornlct 372
Puddings, Little Bread, 111. : . . . . 455
Punch, Fruit, 111 "41
Punch, Mint 41
Rabbit, Deviled . 212
Rabbit, Tomato 456
Ramekins, Cheese 212
Rhubarb Baked with Raisins .... 697
Rice, Creole 214
Rice, Ristori Style 128
Roll, Chocolate Marshmallow Cream, lil. . 38
Rolls, Finger, 111 454
Rolls, Parker House, 111 294
Salad, Andalusian 693
Salad, Asparagus-and-Salmon, 111. . . 692
Salad, Asparagus, String-Bean-and-Pea, 111. 693
Salad, Celery and White Grape . . . 293
Salad, Chaudfroid of Salmon . . . . 534
Sakid, Chicken, Early Summer Style . . 125
Salad, Christmas Fruit, 111. . . . . . 373
Salad, Cream Cheese 129
Salad, Cream Cheese and Green Pepper, 111. 776
.Salad, Fish in Shells, 111 290
Salad, Ham-and-Egg, 111 533
Salad, Heart of Palm, 111 774
Salad, Lettuce, Cress-and-Tomato, 111. . 37
Salad, Lima Bean 214
Salad, Louise . . . . . . . . 456
Salad, Potato, with Sardines and Olives. 1 11. 693
Salad, Stuffed Tomato, 111 124
Salad, Tomato-and-Celer>' -de-luxe, 111. . 293
Salad, Tomato-and-Cucumber, 111. . . 213
Salad, Tuna Fish, 111 291
Sandwich, Open Club, Filene Style, 111. . 372
Sandwiches, Open, 111 775
Sandwiches, Tomato, 111 125
Sardines, Fried 210
Sauce, Chaudfroid 34, 293
Sauce; Cheese ........ 613
Sauce, Currant Jelly, for Ham .... 34
Sauce, Tomato 214
Sauce, Vinaigrette 775
Sauce, Miss Wilbur's Hard .... 216
Sausage, Cannelon 292
Sausage, with Spinach and Poached Eggs,
111 611
Scrapple, New England 772
Sherbet, Peach 127
Shortcakes, Individual Strawberry, 111. . 4?
Shrimps in Aspic Jelly, 111 33
Souffle, French Cocoa 129
Soup, Boston Baked Bean 209
Soup, Chicken, 111 449
Soup, Cream of Squash -. 610
Soup, French Cabbage 530
Soup, Leek-and-Potato 369
Soup, i\Iock Bisque 530
Soup, Oatmeal 690
PAGE
Soup, Tomato . . . . ' . . . . 290
Squabs in Casserole ....... 36
Sponge, Grape Juice, 111 616
Sponge, Logan Berry, 111 694
Steak, Breslauer, IMushroom Sauce . . 123
Steak, Salisbury with Bacon, Hotel Style 369
Steak, Spanish 772
Sticks, Imperial 369
Suggestions for April ...... 689
Suggestions for February , . . . . 529
Suggestions for Alarch 609
Tart, Strawberry, 111 41
Tarts, Cranberry 296
Tarts, Melba, 111. ....... 696
Timbale, Macaroni, 111. ...... 613
Timbales, Baked Beans 213
Timbales, Chicken-and-Rice, 111. . . . 371
Timbales, Tomato, 111. . . . . . . 692
Toast, Polly's Cinnamon 372
Torte, Potato, 111 776
Trilbys . . _ 537
Trout, Brook, with Bacon 122
Turnips, Fall 372
Turnovers, Chicken-and-Ham . . . . 217
Veal Loaf 35
Veal, Rump Roast of. 111 771
\'egetables, Curried . . . . . . . 214
\"inegar. Raspberry 128
Vol-au-Vent of Apricots, 111 616
Wafers, Cornflake 694
Waffles, Green Corn, 111 126
Queries and Answers
Apples, Baked, Time for Serving . . . 312
Apples with Dates 232
Beans, Boston Baked 391
Beefsteak, Panbroiled, etc. . . . . . 552
Beef Tea, Beef Extract, etc 394
Biscuit, Graham 631
Blancmange, Cornstarch and Sea Moss
Farine 64
Bouillon and Consomme 394
Bread, Baking without Thermometer . 634
Bread, Bran 234, 471
Bread, Buttering at Table .... 793
Bread, Dark Colored 62
Bread, Graham 631
Bread, Oatmeal . .391
Bread, Temperature of, when Rising . 632
Bread, Wh}* Coarse-Grained .... 792
Bread, with Compressed Yeast, with Drv
Yeast . . '.632
Butter at Formal Dinners 712
Butter, Cooked 144
Cake, Divinitv, Fudge, with Frosting . . 236
Cake, Fruit, Wholewheat 234
Cake, German Coffee 62
Cake, Graham Cracker 792
Cake, Ideal Sponge 392
Cake, Lady Baltimore 554
Cake, Moist Gold 144
Cake, Nut Loaf . . _• 636
Cake, Spice, at High Altitude . . . 312
Cake, Sponge, Potato Flour .... 554
Cake, White Fruit . 552
Cake, White with Marshmallow Frosting . 396
Cakes, Butter 60
Canapes, Horseradish 632
Candle Light for Lighting . . . . . 632
Candy, Divinity 396
Candy, with Fondant , 392
Caramels, Recipe for . . . . . .312
AMERICAN COOKERY
PAGE
Catering for College Girls . . . . . 236
Catsup, Old-Time Tomato 74
Cauliflower with Onion Sauce .... 472
Center-Pieces, Round . . . . . . 232
Cheese Balls, Cream 791
Cheese Balls for Soup . . . . . . 311
Chicken, Panned 60
Chili Con Carne ^58
Chop Suey 714
Chutney . . . . . . ... .146
Cocktail, Fruit, Service of 144
Cookies, Peanut Butter 636
Courses for a Formal Dinner .... 143
Cream, Date-and-Marshmallow . 792
Cream Puffs, Time to Serve. .... 792
Croquettes, Canned Shad 312
Cucumber, Sweet Pickled 74
Cup in Meat Pie 712
Custard, Renversee 236
Custard, Royal 710
Custard, Tapioca 231
Cutlets, Lamb, Laura 631
Diet for an Anaemic 472
Diet in Case of Gall Stones 396
Dishes for Fireless Cooker . . . . 143
Dishes to Serve with Baked Beans . . 712
Dishes to Serve with A4acaroni . . . 812
Doughnuts, Why Crack 556
Dressing, Boiled Salad 392
Dressing Mayonnaise 471
Dressing, Russian Salad 511
Dressing, Thousand Island Salad . . 394, 554
Dressing, Whipped Cream .... 392
Dumplings, Potato 311
Eclairs with Chocolate Frosting . . . 396
Eggs, as a Typical Food 712
Eggs for Luncheon Dishes 472
Eggs, Poached with Onion Puree . . . 472
Egg Shell, as Food, Dissolved . . . . 712
Eggs, To Preserve for Winter Use . . 145
Etiquette, Table 794
Fat, Care and Use of 470
Figs, Stewed, with Cream 232
Filling for Cream Puffs 230
Finger Bowls at Luncheon 311
Flour for Pastry and Cookies . . . . 551
Fondant, Uncooked 710
Food, Cost of, per Person 310
Food Exhibits for Schools . . . 312
Food for Fifty Persons 145
Food, Lists of. Cooked at Same Temperature 392
Foods Containing Iron, Calcium, etc. . . 472
Foods for a Formal Dinner . . . . 143
Gingerbread with Whipped Cream . 232
Grissini 714
Hash, Heavenly 711
Hors d'Oeuvres, Sjcandinavian .... 632
Husband and Wife at Dinner, Seating of . 713
Ice Cream Junket 232
Icing, Confectioner's 791
Icingfor Angel Cake 72
Icing, Soft Boiled ....... 791
Jcing, Soft White ■ . . 791
Luncheon, Four Course 631
Luncheon, Four Course, Pink and White . 714
Luncheon, June ........ 60
Macaroons Oatmeal 711
Marmalade, Amber 551
Marmalade, Pineapple, Grapefruit, etc. . 636
Meat and Vegetables, Substitute for . 62
Meat, What to Serve with 312
Menus, Regarding Weil-Balanced . . 58
PAGE
Mignon or Minion 556
Milk, Goat's for Babies 793
Muffins, Bran 234
Muffins, Cheese, (high altitude) . . . 312
Muffins, English, and Crumpets . . . 634
Muffins, Oatmeal 632
Muffins, Rice 470
Muffins, with Cold Cereals 632
Napkin, Table, Disposition of, After Meal 712
Newspapers, Keeping of 146
Oatmeal in Bread, etc 710
Omelet, Rum 311
Omelet, Spanish 554
Onions Stuffed with Sausage, Rice, etc. . 472
Peach Melba 792
Pep.pers, Uses for Green 314
Pickles, Sweet Cucumber 796
Pie a la Mode ; 311
Pie, Chocolate 470
Pimientos, Canned 62
Polenta, Italian 710
Porksteak, Ham and Sausage, Cooked in
Frying Pan 552
Potato Cooking 711
Potato Souffle 310
Potatoes au Gratin 714
Potatoes Why they Stick to Frying Utensil 711
Preserve, Citron Melon 310
Preserves and Pickles, Damson . . . 234
Pudding, Baked Indian 556
Pudding, Cornstarch, with Chocolate Sauce 231
Pudding, Date and Tapioca .... 145
Pudding, Rebecca with Sauce .... 64
Puddings, Queen of. Mock Indian, Apple
Tapioca 231
Prune Kuchen 232
Recipes, Number of Portions in . . 396
Relish, Hebrew, Pepper, Philadelphia . . 146
Rice, Boiled 231
Rolls, Crust}' Dinner 470
Rolls, French 55
Salad, Canned Shrimp . . . r . . 314
Salad, Frozen Fruit 231
Salad, Lima-Bean and String-Bean . . 72
Salad, Potato 56
Salad, Prune-and-Pecan Nut .... 56
Salad, Tango 56
Sandwiches, Cheese-and-Nut .... 56
Sauce for Polenta 710
Sauce, Hot Butter Scotch 62
Saucers, Regarding 712
Scones, Scotch 145
Scrapple, Philadelphia 556
Shad, Canned, with Mushrooms. . . . 312
Sherbet, Grape Juice 55
Sherbet, Strawberry 55
Soap, Home-Made 146
Soap, Toilet . 791
Soup, Green Turtle . 314
Sponge, Pineapple Tapioca .... 232
Steak, Broiling of 230
Stew, Red Kidney Bean ..... 472
Strawberry and Raspberry Juice, canned . 145
Suet in Steamed Puddings . . . . 711
Sugar, Brown, for Pickles 711
Sugar, Confectioner's and Others . . . 556
Tea and Coffee Pots, Construction of . . 712
Tea for Seventy-Five Guests .... 474
Veal Birds . 551
Vegetables, Macedoine of 56
Viscogen 391
Wafers, Laxative . _ . 710
Menus for June Weddings
WEDDING BREAKFAST
Unhulled Strawberries with Leaves
Breaded Filets of Fresh Fish, Fried,
Sauce Tartare
Cucumbers, French Dressing with Onion Juice
Rolls
French Omelet with Creamed Asparagus
Baba, Raspberry Sauce
Coffee
II
Individual Baskets of Unhulled Strawberries
(Choice and well cleaned)
Breaded Sweetbreads, Saute, Green Peas
Norma Salad
Parker House Rolls
Strawberry Sherbet
Bride's Cake
Coffee
III
Pineapple-and-Orange Cocktail
Salmon Croquettes, Green Peas
Olives Radishes
Broiled Squabs on Fried Hominy, Cress, French Dressing
Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce
Bride's Cake
Strawberry Ice Cream
Coffee
WEDDING RECEPTION
I
Assorted Cake
Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce
Fine Fruit Punch
II
Bride's Loaf Cake
Grapejuice
Chaudfroid of Veal and Chicken Loaf
Macedoine of Asparagus, Carrots, Potatoes,
Tomatoes,
Mayonnaise or French Dressing
Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches
Strawberry Ice Cream
Coffee
FRUIT PUNCH
Page 41
American Cookery
Vol. XXI
JUNE-JULY, 1916
No. 1
PORCH LIVING-ROOAI, OUTDOOR VIEW
Making a Living-Room of the Porch
Or, " Vacations on the Half Shell "
By Jane Vos
FROM the moment we are first sere-
naded by our bird neighbors just
back from the Southland, there is
a feeHng of "wanderlust" in the air. We
long to be outdoors tramping in the
meadows or jogging along country roads
under the blue sky. But, alas! to many
of us vacations are sometimes not pos-
sible. If this is the case, why not try
a porch vacation this year, and know the
joys of home comfort plus living in the
open? In other words, if you cannot go
to the mountains or seashore, why not
bring one or the other to your own door ?
Like Molly-Make-Believe, you can enjoy
a whole lot in your very mental attitude.
Any city or suburban residence that
boasts even a tiny porch space can be
arranged to have an effect of coolness
and comfort. If there is no porch, a
little ingenuity can convert even a small
roof space into a desirable summer liv-
ing room. A few beams, a little car-
pentry work, a Venetian bhnd or two,
possibly a canopied awning, and your
improvised room is ready for furnishing.
Awnings are ugly to look upon, but
they are exceedingly practical. Vene-
11
12
AMERICAN COOKERY
tian blinds in pale green or the natural
tan colorings are attractive and, happily
for most of us, inexpensive. A cheap
screen if well taken care of may be made
to last at least three seasons, and then
not look shabby.
Many women prefer the natural straw
colored bamboo screens, but there is
something so cool and restful about the
apple green that this color seems pref-
erable for summer use. Furthermore,
this shade makes a superb background
for the palms, ferns and other growing
things on the porch.
The main advantage of the porch
blind is that, while the occupant behind
it cannot be seen by passers-by, he may
behold all that is going on in the street,
if he wishes. Then, too, one can have
immediate privacy without waiting for
vines to grow. Personally, I always
wish at least one end of the porch
screened with vines. There is such a
wealth of greenery among the ever-
bearing hardy roses and climbing plants
that when it comes to making a selec-
tion there is an embarrassment of riches.
The rose tribe, for example, has an ex-
tensive family tree, and it is really diffi-
cult to choose from among all these
beauties. Dr. Van Fleet can be recom-
mended, however, as it excels all other
climbers. "Silver Moon" is a hybrid
of the Cherokee, and it has creamy
white, semi-double blossoms with con-
spicuous golden stamens. "Rose Wich-
uriana" grows as high as ten feet in
one season, forming a dense mat of very
dark green, lustrous foliage. The flowers
are single, pure white with a golden
yellow disc, from five to six inches in
circumference, and are strongly scented.
As to the ramblers, nothing in the entire
rose family is more beloved for embower-
ing a porch.
Other hardy, quick climbing vines
are the well-known Virginia creeper;
tuberous rooted, purple wistaria; the
white and blue wistaria; the hardy yel-
low jasmine, which blooms on its naked
INDOOR VIEW OF THE PORCH
MAKING A LIVING-ROOM OF THE PORCH
13
ATTRACTIVE AND COMFORTABLE
stems; the white jasmine that blossoms
after the fohage is set; the Chinese
matrimony vine with bright purple
flowers succeeded in the fall by brilliant
scarlet berries. Bitter sweet, too, is much
favored because of its orange-scarlet
trumpet-shaped flowers, followed by the
brilliant scarlet berries, which remain to
gladden our hearts all winter, when the
leaves of our beautiful roses and vines
are withered and dead. So each has its
advantage. But is there a woman who
can quite resist having a fragrant golden
honeysuckle to joy her heart with its
sweetness all summer, and to attract
the ruby-throated humming birds and
numerous glorious songsters?
Meantime, while the question of
screening is being settled, it will be a
good plan to stain the floor of the porch,
finishing with a coat of outside varnish.
This will keep it in good condition all
summer, and make it far more livable.
Furnishing is now in order.
Many women have an idea that all
cast-ofl chairs are good enough for
the porch, but if the latter is to serve
as a living-room, it must be made as at-
tractive as possible, and there must be
a definite color-scheme to start with,
otherwise it will be a hodge-podge, in-
stead of a cool, restful retreat. If all
the old chairs are to be brought into
requisition, they should, at least, be
treated to a coat of white or green paint.
Three coats would be better. If the
former, plain, apple-green denim or
fiowered chintz should be chosen for
couch, table and chair covers and couch
cushions and coverings. A gray or
apple-green grass or rag rug will give
the finishing summery touch. Small
side tables for games, a combination
settle and tea-table, a good sized read-
ing table for magazines, books, etc., if
the porch will admit of such furnishing,
and, of course, a couch or swinging ham-
mock will add to its comfort and repose.
If the chairs are to be painted green,
black chintz with a pink rose design will
be found most attractive for cushions.
Table and couch coverings of the same
will be much admired. In fact, an in-
spection of the summer fabrics in the
14
AMERICAN COOKERY
upholstery section of any department
store will give many new ideas upon this
all-important subject of furnishing at
small expense. Or a two-cent stamp
will bring samples to your own door. It
is certainly not a question of abundant
means, but good taste that will make
your summer living room a success.
Although there is a great variety in
the furniture that may be chosen, there
are certain characteristics that must be
regarded. Everything must be light
and easily movable, or else substantially
made of weather resisting material.
With a triple coating of outside varnish
or paint on the floor of the porch, a good
rug or two, the fundamentals are dis-
posed of. Reed rockers and arm chairs
may be bought for as low as ninety-eight
cents in large sizes, and less in the smaller
ones which are not so desirable. Wil-
low or rattan furniture may be left the
natural coloring to match the screens,
if preferred. If painted, white and green
are the staple colors. At least one
steamer chair will be found a great com-
fort, as the swing divan or couch never
looks so alluring as when another is occu-
pying them. If there is an alternative
in the shape of a steamer chair, the day
is saved.
When swinging hammocks first came
out, they were regarded as luxuries only
meant for the very rich and they were
priced accordingly. Now they may be
purchased at ridiculously low prices.
Home-made ones, however, are easily
made if desired. A woven wire cot with
collapsible legs, for example, will make a
splendid swing divan. A few yards of
heavy rope or a ship's cable will be re-
quired for suspending this heavy ham-
mock. At night the legs may be let down
to the floor, if the couch is swung at just
the right height to permit of this, and
the hammock thus serve as an outdoor
,,^4CIOUS AND^kE^r^lT, ,
MAKING A LIVING-ROOM OF THE PORCH
15
FOR FRESH AIR
sleeping bed without the swaying motion
so objectionable to many. In this event,
the cot divan mattress may be encased in
green or tan denim, and thus be a fin-
ished product by day as well as night;
or a couch cover may be used. If so,
do not trust to its vagaries for keeping in
place. Sew a piece of heavy ribbon or
tape at each corner and secure to the
cot. Better still, have a button and
buttonhole in each corner or snappers to
save time.
Even a woven-wire bed spring, minus
the cot, may make an acceptable swing
divan, if there is a mattress to fit it. A
chain fastened to each corner of the
spring and suspended from heavy hooks
in the porch ceiling will secure it amply.
When the mattress is covered with a
heavy steamer rug or encased in a denim
covering, it is as luxuriously comfor-
table as one could desire, and bears all
the earmarks of the expensively pur-
chased commodity. A pair of single
bedsprings may, also, be encased in ship's
canvas, leaving two projecting ends with
a brass rod run through the top hems,
,and.hea:v;y,xings from which to suspend.
the rope ends that pass on up to the
ceiling. In this case, the mattress
should be upholstered separately.
A combination table and settle is al-
ways useful. When the tea things are
not in use, it provides a receptacle for
them, and covers them from dust and
dirt, the bete noir of jthe good housekeeper
in summer time. A small electric grill
and tea kettle should also find its
place in the equipment, if there is elec-
tricity. It is a simple matter to run
the cord from the stove through an open
window to the nearest electric light fix-
ture, and there attach the plug. In fact,
the latter need not be removed all sum-
mer, unless this particular lamp is
needed. Merely detach the cord from
the stove, and pass the remaining length
through the window to be left coiled
there in some convenient receptacle until
again needed. A maidless breakfast
will thus be a simple matter, for the tea
kettle will boil in short order for drip
coffee or the percolator and eggs, while
crisp, golden slices of toast will be
served fresh from the toaster. After-
noon tqa may also, be quickly prepared
16
AMERICAN COOKERY
for the caller, and tempting lunches be
made ready on short order.
As an aid to this outdoor service, a
small nursery ice box in the shadiest
corner of the porch will be found a great
convenience. I know one woman who
keeps her refrigerator on her front porch
throughout the summer, though no one
would ever suspect it. To be sure, her
porch is an exceptionally commodious
one, well screened with dense foliage. A
large white enameled four-ply denim
screen, upholstered in old blue, by the
way, to match the rest of the porch
things, stands in front of the ice box.
In the opposite comer, behind the screen,
also, is a gas plate attached to the near-
est gas jet in the house. And such de-
lectable dinners as are served on that
porch !
Another convenience on a certain
porch that serves as a living-dining
room, is a sort of a push gig on wheels
with four trays that fit in sliding grooves.
On these trays the food and dishes are
trundled to the porch in one trip. Such
a tea-wagon may be bought in any de-
partment store, but if there is a handy
man in the house, he can easily make one
at almost no expense. Such a one, will
also prove far more commodious. A
frame work of wood, four trays, a pair
of rubber-tired wheels from an abandoned
go-cart, to attach to the front legs of the
"gig," and you have a tea- wagon that
no shop can duplicate for fifteen dollars.
Casters may be adjusted to the rear
legs to facilitate the trundling process.
The same man who was clever enough
to devise the tea-wagon also elongated
his porch by sawing out a portion of its
end rail, and adding a swinging settle to
this alcove. At the other end, he sawed
out the railing also and made a built-in
seat, with a canopied top. This length-
ened his porch about seven feet.
City dwellers, who live in rented flats,
apartments or porchless homes need not
despair, for still others are proving
"Where there is a will, there is a way."
There is more and more rebellion against
indoor living, and even roof spaces are
FOR SUMMER OR WINTER USE
JUNE'S MESSAGE
17
being utilized for living-rooms. A clever
idea is shown in two of the illustrations,
indoor and outdoor. This living-room
porch was built over an extension roof,
steamer-deck fashion. A simple frame-
work was erected to hold the canvas roof
covering and side awnings in place.
Wire screened sides further simulate the
deck idea. The canvas and awning were
the only investment aside from the stove
pipe and the carpentry work. The stove
pipe, by the way, joins the chimney of the
house, passing from it to the range in
the outdoor living-room. This stove is
found a great convenience on rainy,
damp days, and its heat when in use for
cooking purposes is never felt. The lino-
leum on the floor withstands the ele-
ments, and it is easily wiped up after a
rainstorm. A few boxes filled with ferns,
and motherwort vines around the rail-
ing, help to form a screen.
Canopied awnings on standards that
are easily moved from place to place are
useful roof accessories. A few beams
erected, pergola fashion, and painted
white, afford ample support for canvas
awnings. Japanese lanterns suspended
from these in the evening give a charm-
ing effect. To avoid the danger of fire
an electrician can easily wire for such
lighting at small expense. Brick walls
may be covered with Boston ivy, and
climbing vines may be planted in boxes
to shut out an unsightly wall. Morn-
ing glories in green window boxes trained
on wires to a support, will be most at-
tractive in a roof-garden. These sup-
ports will also serve as a framework for
Japanese matting or canvas to give an
air of real coolness and repose to an
otherwise barren spot.
A couch constructed as described in
the foregoing, may be commodious
enough for all night sleeping in favor-
able weather, as well as for daytime
beauty naps.
All these little breathing spots, al-
though suggestive of dainty mending
baskets and things to embroider, will
also suggest to the men of the family a
newspaper, a pipe and a good cigar.
''Where there is a will, there is a way"
for an at-home vacation.
June's Message
,0 lovely June! thy balmy air,
Thy nodding dandelions so yellow,
Thy perfumed roses everywhere.
Thy joyous birds with voices mellow,
Thy brooklets rippling through the wood,
Breathe messages of brotherhood!
"All nature is akin," they say,
"In sympathetic harmony,
And gladly God's commands obe}^
To make life one grand symphony! "
Thus gentle nature doth attune
Thy charmed elements, O June!
But will she weave her magic bond
To compass aU humanit}^.
And kindle hearts to correspond
With thine, O June, in amity?
Time only will divulge her plan —
BASE WAR or BROTHERHOOD OF MAN!
Caroline Louise Sumner.
Standing in the Food Line in Paris
By Blanche McManus
STANDING in the food Hne in
Paris is both an amusing and an
aggravating period of the feminine
day's work. Don't make the mistake
of thinking that this means getting some-
thing for nothing in these necessitous
war times. It only indicates the way
we have to shop in the super-groceries
of Paris at all times; that is, we get into
line and await our turns, as is the Paris
grocery fashion, and like all Paris
fashions it is entirely peculiar and
unique unto itself. It is as if you were
buying a ticket. It is a meal-ticket,
in fact, that costs double what it once
did and the Frenchwoman, most care-
ful and conscientious of housekeepers,
fairly raves over the present food-prices
which have jumped fifty to a hundred
per cent since the war has tangled up
her housekeeping routine.
For the super-grocery itself, it has
been a sunshiny period of more than
usual opulence in profits. There are
half a dozen of these super-groceries
in Paris, each with establishments
distributed in various parts of the city.
and in some cases branch houses through-
out the country, all co-operating to the
general end. The peculiarity is that
these establishments are really grocery-
markets, and besides they are in most
cases actual manufacturers, or assem-
blers, of most of the products which
they sell. It is the department store
idea applied to the selling of food with
unusual elaboration, and as a result
it has brought every style of eatable
together in one store from the de luxe
can and package goods, through meats,
to fruits and vegetables, so that the
Frenchwoman can do her day's buying
of provisions under one roof.
The mixed character of the super-
grocery makes for a curious mixture of
inconvenience and luxuriousness. Their
installation tends towards both hygienic
and ornamental effects, usually of
white marble and tiling with much
plate glass and effective brass and
nickel finishings, while elaborate, sym-
bolically designed friezes decorate the
walls of the various departments with
pleasing effect. Meanwhile the floors
NEW METHODS IN
Types of Parisians waiting in line in a Super-Grocery.
STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS
19
are strewn with fine sawdust, which
is brushed, up frequently, after the
homely, but efficient provincial French
fashion of keeping floors clean. While
the grocery department proper has
an imposing facade of plate glass win-
dows and doors they are something
in the nature of stage-scenery, as the
remainder of the store is practically
arcaded entrances, which stay open
winter and summer to accommodate
the crowds that surge in and out. There
is yet another anomaly for most have
installed perfectly appointed tea-rooms.
But the greatest peculiarity of the
super-grocery-market is its method of
doing business, and this results in the
food-line. There is nothing in the way
of the usual counter, only long table-
like shelves on which the varied comes-
tibles are laid out, each ticketed with
its price, as on a bargain counter
in a department store, nor are there any
stools or chairs in the place. You may
walk around and inspect the goods at
your leisure and no one will disturb
you by coming up and demanding what
you wish to buy. The smartly attired
floor- walker is non-existent, also the
black-coated shop clerk. Instead, there
are young men in long white working
blouses and active young women wear-
ing business-like aprons, all rushing
about but paying not the slightest
attention to you. This is bewildering
to a stranger to the customs.
In this way you begin your personally
conducted trip after food. Instead of
going to a counter to be waited on, you
take your place at the end of a long line
of waiting customers beside a railing in
front of one of the cashier's desks,
of which there is one for each depart-
ment. The universal rule of the French
department store of whatever nature
is that the customer herself pays at the
desk.
You wait while each clerk brings her
customer up to the desk, sees that she
pays her bill and hands her her parcel.
As the clerk finishes with her customer,
she picks another one from the waiting
line. As your turn comes you tell the
young woman clerk what it may be
that you wish to purchase and then
meekly follow her from counter to
counter and help her to find it. When
she has succeeded in collecting to-
gether all the articles which 3^ou may
have wanted from the department,
she brings you up to a double wrapping-
table where there is already collected
a struggling mass of women shoppers,
each trying to keep track of her in-
THE FOOD BUSINESS
It's a case of waiting patiently until a clerk comes up and beheads the food line for a customer.
20
AMERICAN COOKERY
dividual clerk and purchases, which
principally results in blocking the way
of the workers. In the melee you
stick as best you can to the clerk's
elbow as she calls off your order to be
checked up by the head controller.
After which your young woman, lei-
surely hunts up wrapping paper and
twine in which to do up your parcel, in
such a casual way, too, that the chances
are it falls apart before you get it home.
The inability of the French shop em-
ployee to tie up properly a parcel, is
almost a national failing and comes
from generations of a lack of training
in this art, caused by the habit of the
Frenchwoman of all classes to go food-
shopping with a market basket, or a
large net bag, called a filet, on her arm
in which to carry home her purchases.
Back of this stands the French fetish
of economy as practised by the little
grocery, which neither wraps up nor
delivers its customers' parcels. Its
limit of indulgence in this line is to
hand out a client's sugar or salt loosely
laid in a piece of last year's newspaper,
bought of junk dealers especially for
this purpose.
It was one of the big innovations in
the business of food, when the super-
grocery introduced the chic style of
doing up a customer's purchases in
stout and presentable brown paper
parcels, while it was considered on a
par with a revolution when it in-
stituted still more recently the function
of the delivery of parcels. In spite
of which the bulk of the customers still
bring their basket, or filet, not only be-
cause the Frenchwoman clings to old
customs, but for the reason that even the
super-grocery will not make deliveries
of goods under the value of ten francs
— a method of business that would
surely chill patronage in America.
When your white-aproned young
woman does hand you your parcel, it
is with the stern injunction to have
your exact change ready. This is an
irritating imposition, which the super-
grocery especially perpetrates on its
clients, a result of the rarity of small
change in France since the beginning of
war, caused by nervous people hoard-
ing their silver and copper coins.
Finally, you complete your circular
tour by returning to the same desk from
which you started, here to pay your
bill, where a man stands by to check off
the amount and see that the cashier
gives out the correct change. At last,
the young woman clerk can wash her
hands of you and is at liberty to behead
When your turn comes you follow your clerk around the store while she gathers up the
articles you want.
STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS
21
once more the waiting line of food-
hunters of another customer.
This method of forming the food-
hne is a Httle too dilettante in its action
for the spritely American taste, but the
Frenchwoman adores any plan that
bristles with inconveniences, as it makes
her feel that she is very busy, and the
advantage of the system is that it has
broken her of the bad habit of crowding
in ahead of her turn. The greatest
disadvantage of the food-line from
point of time is that it must be formed
anew, and the same lengthy operations
gone through with, for each of the
various departments.
For example: you may have made
your first circular tour in the grocery^
department proper, which occupies the
front of the establishment. Then you
decide to supplement your luncheon
purchases with one of the plats du jour,
from the list of daily dishes prepared
by the store. You pass through a highly
ornamental plate-glass and .iron-grilled
barrier into the department of these
ready made dishes, which are made up
and in most cases, also, partially cooked.
This idea of m^aking up a menu of
ready-made dishes was originated by
the Paris super-grocery, and while it is a
sort of delicatessen formula (only do not
whisper such a German word into
French ears) , it has been by the grocery-
market developed beyond the limits
conceived by any other purveyor of pre-
pared dishes. Ranged on marble tables
there are, beside the usual cold meats and
salads, a number of the standard dishes
of the French dejeuner, substantial meat
entrees, each garnished with its correct
vegetable and accompanying sauce.
They have already been cooked in
earthenware dishes and only need to be
popped into the home oven and heated
up ready for the table.
The ready-made dish department is
not only a repository of ease for the
studio housekeeper of the Latin Quarter,
and for the home maker of the kitchen-
ette apartment, but is also patronized by
the thrifty French bourgeoise who finds
these dishes, which can be bought for
such reasonable prices, from twenty to
fifty cents each, are really far cheaper
than she can make the same things for
at home, with all trouble extracted,
and then there is a rebate of five or ten
cents on each crockery receptacle.
The selling of meat is specialized to a
high degree in France. Pork is only
sold at a charcutier, poultry and game in
the shop of the mar chand de volatile et
gihier; beef, veal and mutton only are
?~^-# O^^^
The Ready Made Dish Department is the joy of the housekeeper of the kitchenette apartment.
A ready cooked dish for every day in the week.
22
AMERICAN COOKERY
linked up at the boucherie. Even now
that the super-grocery-market has intro-
duced the food department store, it still
bows to tradition and divides up, its
meat department into four sections,
which means for each one waiting again
in the food line. It is always a long line
that trails through the charcuterie
department, which shows up the im-
portance of pork products in the French
scheme of food. It is not, however, for
the fresh pork carcasses that hang there,
that the crowd surges in, but for the de
luxe forms of the porcine, which take
rank among the choicest "horsd'oeuvres"
with which the French begin each lunch-
eon and dinner, and their name is legion.
In natural sequence now the food-line
forms in the regular meat department,
finished as all the others in white marble
with saw-dusted floors of the same
material. You dodge about among
serried rows of fresh-butchered beeves,
muttons and veals hanging from nickeled
hooks above your head. Here another
style of food is in vogue. Spread out on
marble counters is an array of various
cuts, — steaks, roasts, chops and the
like — trimmed, trussed, boned and
prepared for cooking, each marked with
its fixed price. This ready-prepared
system saves the making up of dilatory
feminine minds as well as the time of
employees during the rush hours ; as the
super-grocery claims to sell cheaper than
the small dealer, everything must in
consequence be figured down to the
economic low level. So it is you may
leisurely inspect the bargains displayed,
make your choice and then, as often
happens, take your place in the waiting
line only to see some one ahead of you
choose the very morsel upon which you
have set your eyes and mind. This is
the gamble of the food-line.
Such is the war time dearth of men
that it is a young woman butcher who
wields the cleaver at the chopping block,
with, it must be confessed, less skill
than her male prototype. Any com-
plaint, however, will be stifled when
your eye catches sight of one of the
rather pathetic signs posted about, that
politely requests customers to be con-
siderate towards the young women in
their arduous, adopted duties. Serving
in the super-grocery is one of the many
new occupations that war has opened to
the women of France.
About the time that the super-grocery
was established in the mid-nineteenth
century the guild of Paris butchers was
limited by their charter to only a very
few members. These became so
The war has opened up a new occupation for women clerks in the^^super-grocery, even inlthe
meat department.
STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS
23
arrogant and wealthy that one of their
number, on the occasion of a pubhc
procession, cut in ahead of the King's
own carriage, whereupon, the whole of
the trade was punished for the sca;ndal,
the business of butchering, then a close
corporation, being thrown open to all.
This is as the story goes. But there is
no doubt about the arrogant position of
the Paris butcher today with the price
of meat double in many instances what
it was before the war. Yet it is claimed
to be the most precarious of all food
business and for this reason it was with
timidity, originally, that the super-
grocery installed its fresh meat depart-
mx8nt. Today it is one of their great
su.^cesses owing to their large way of
h kindling it. Quite as timidly the super-
grocery put on sale recently, for the first
tmr-^ in its history, cold storage meats
and the sign now decorates the front
of some of their stores, ''Viande im-
portee congelee'' and marks what is per-
haps the most revolutionary departure
yet in the food business of France. The
French have been bitterly opposed to
the introduction of refrigerator meats,
th6ir prejudice was simply the result
of never having tasted them, but now
that the super-grocery has taken them
up the Parisians will doubtless take to
the congelee steaks and roasts with the
same docility that they have displayed
towards other of the super-grocery
innovations. Already they have nick-
named the cold storage meat "frigo."
The crowning triumph of the super-
grocery's policy is the fish department.
Its importance in the scheme of food
may be estimated, when it is realized
that the exclusive retail fish shop does
not exist in Paris. Only in the large
general open-air market, held bi-weekly
on some boulevard of her quarter, will the
Parisian housekeeper be able to buy her
fish from a few stalls selling fresh fish,
which lie gasping on dry boards without
ice. Or it may be that her neighboring
greengrocer will put a few unappetising
fish of the "remainder class" on sale on
Fridays and holidays as a special favor
to his clients. In both cases prices are
ridiculously high, when it is considered
that two thirds of France's frontiers are
salt water. Sea-food is therefore the
scarcest and dearest article of con-
sumption on the French menu.
The super-grocery-market has been
thus almost philanthropic in bringing
fish into range of the daily steps and
average purse of the Paris housewife.
The fish department has been featured
in a spectacular manner worthy of its
The fish department is featured ; nurses even amuse children by bringing the little ones to see the
stocks kept in the Aquariums.
24
AMERICAN COOKERY
exotic importance as a novelty. It is
usually to be found installed in a
separate division of the store, marble
throughout, while the walls are taste-
fully and ornately decorated with gay-
colored friezes, or comprehensive mural
embellishments of tiles, or in porcelain
relief, whose motifs comprise a long
range of aquatic subjects from quaintly
picturesque fishing craft to the more
spectacular members of the finny tribes,
all twined about in arabesques of
gilded seaweed.
The fish themselves are ranged on
morgue-like marble slabs bedded on
green water weeds over which trickles
water. Ice is such a super-luxury in
France that not even the super-grocery
has arisen to the need of it for its fish
department. True, they have installed
some forms of meat refrigerators, but
of a baby size and a temperature far
from freezing. They depend upon keep-
ing things fresh by the circulation of air
only, for this reason the stores stay
open all day and at night are protected
by grilled barriers and not closed
shutters.
The clou of the fish department is the
aquarium which rises in two or three
ornamental tiers " of marble and glass
and encloses the stocks of sporty brook
and mountain trout and other fresh
water fish, with perhaps a purely
decorative basin containing gold fish.
On platters of porcelain are piled up the
small shell fish, the numerous and
much sought after coquillages, which
also figure importantly in the long list
of hors d'oeuvres.
For poultrA^ and game one must go
outside where the stalls are lined up on
the sidewalks in front of the store,
partly protected by overhead awnings.
The poultry is invariably dressed, while
the game is almost exclusively com-
posed of pheasants, hares and rabbits.
On the sidewalk are also the fruits and
vegetables, so is the cashier's desk for
all of these outside departments; but
the food-line is not formed out here,
possibly for lack of space.
For a study of the idiosyncrasies of a
Paris shopping crowd there is no better
method than by waiting in the food-line.
The woman economical of time comes
between eight, and ten; the bonnes,
servant maids, bareheaded, white-
aproned with baskets, form intermin-
able lines before the noon hour; society
comes in the afternoon to buy and eat,
standing on the spot as is the custom,
some delicacy in the pastry division,
or as an excuse for a cup of tea in the
attractive tea-room, which is apt to be
the central feature of the confectionery
Society goes to buy and eat pastry in the Confectionery
Department, standing up in real French fashion.
Elderly French gentlemen
in selecting food
STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS
25
department. The elderly Parisian man
is quite an habitue of the super-grocery,
being a "rentier" usually, he has time
and also, no matter what his position
in life, he takes an astonishing amount
of personal interest in the details of his
food consumption. For this reason
elderly aristocratic gentlemen will be
seen at unexpected hours selecting with
greatest care say, a semelle of fine fruits
for the dinner's dessert, which are luxuri-
ously bedded in cotton, on a flat wicker
tray, in" dozens and half-dozens, an
invention of the super-grocery, whose
innovation also has been the selling of
choice fruits by piece instead of weight.
Two-thirds of the food-line is return-
ing bottles, plates, jars and all sorts of
odd crockery that are "taken back,"
after first having been charged on the
original purchase. From two to ten
cents is charged back on each piece.
It would be impossible to imagine the
American woman taking back an armful
of rough crockery in her shopping round
even for a rebate on her next purchase,
but the thrifty Frenchwoman eternally
occupies herself with the chase of the
sou.
But the two great innovations in-
augurated by the super-groceries are
first: selling at the cours du jour —
the ruling prices of the day — keeping,
however, for the store the same margin
of profits. The trade before this had
been in the habit of making the customer
pay all that the traffic would stand.
The second, was to introduce into the
business the hitherto unknown feature
of fixed prices, thus doing away, too,
with the pernicious graft of one, cent in
every twenty cents to which all servants
in France consider themselves entitled
when they purchase for their employers.
This "dance of the basket," as it is
called, still is practised in the small
shops as well as in the open-air markets
of France.
The true success of the super-grocery
in Paris has been, however, based on
the policy of being its own chef, its own
chemist and as far as possible the manu-
facturer of its own stock in trade. The
largest of these super-groceries has five
retail establishments in Paris, its own
slaughter house in the Paris wholesale
meat market and three great food
manufacturies and storage warehouses
in the suburbs, as well as one hundred
and fifty affiliated groceries all over
France, selling their exclusive manu-
factured products. The firms are vine-
yard owners in all the celebrated vine
growing regions of France, Algeria and
Tunisia. They make no-end lists of
sweet syrups, so much used by the
take an astonishing interest
supplies themselves.
A wartimefashion is that a polite gentleman at the cashier's
desk tries to bone the exact change out of a customer.
26
AMERICAN COOKERY
French for soft drinks. They have, too,
their own bakery, producing crackers,
pastry and confectionery. Their agents
all over the countryside buy up fresh
fruits and vegetables, not only for their
retail stores but for the preserving
and canning of their own goods. They
also put up pickles, condiments and
mustards bearing their own brand.
They grow, some at least, of their own
beet root and refine and put up their
own sugars and salt.
Paris is, however, and probably will
always remain, a city of small shops and
the French as a nation are advocates
and partisans of the small shopkeeper.
Hence it has taken the great war,
which has proved out so many issues,
to prove out to the still sceptical
Parisians the real utility of handling
food on a large scale. The only fear
that war has provoked in the hearts of
the dwellers of Paris is the fear of
running short of food, as in their
memories stih linger the horrors of the
starvation siege of their city in the
last war of the "seventies;" consequently
there have been periodical "rushes" on
the grocery shops by Parisians, as well as
suburbanites, to buy up and stow away
stocks of provisions, when German
advances on Paris have seemed im-
minent during the last year and a half
of warfare. In these crises there were
days at a time when such staples as
sugar, . salt, potatoes, etc., were often
entirely lacking at the small specialist
epicerie with its antiquated facilities
and restricted ways of doing business,
and could only be gotten at the super-
grocery. Then it was that for weeks
on end the "food-lines" in the super-
groceries were running over into the
streets for blocks around; people waited
their turn for days; the police had to
form the "service of order" while the
delivery wagons of the establishments
were kept going night and day between
their warehouses and retail stores replen-
ishing their rapidly depleted stocks.
Then it was that the eyes of the Parisian
food shoppers were opened wide at last
to the advantages of modern methods
and efficiency in the distribution of a
city's food supply.
The super-groceries of Paris by their
policy of manufacturing to so great an
extent their own food ammunition and
controlling their own depots of supplies
and, finally, by mobilizing their forces
efficiently, demonstrated their value, at
the most critical period in the history
of their city, to the Parisians, the most
sceptical people on earth, of any de-
parture from their old traditions, and
at the same time rolled up to their own
credit golden opinions and golden divi-
dends. The enormous profits reaped by
the super-groceries of Paris from their
"war boom" can only be guessed.
Dietetic Cure of Rheumatism
By A. W. Herr, M. D.
URIC acid has long been looked
upon as a strong causative fac-
tor in gout, rheumatic disorders,
etc; and proprietary houses and patent
medicine firms have not been slow to ex-
ploit this theory, to their own financial
betterment and the spoliation of the
public health and purse.
Let us for a moment study the rela-
tionship of this question. Uric acid is
the highest oxidation product of a series
of substances known as the purin bodies.
Uric acid was formerly supposed to be
an antecedent of urea, especially when
the diet consisted largely of flesh meats,
but we have since discovered our mis-
DIETETIC CURE OF RHEUMATISM
27
take, for it has been found that uric acid
itself is non-poisonous. However, its
presence is a measure of the amount of
other toxins present in the urine, most
of which are derived from an incorrect
dietary. Therefore to correct uric acid
conditions and diseases, we must cor-
rect the dietary of the patient by the
ehmination of such foods and beverages
as contain large amounts of uric acid and
allied substances; such foods, for instance,
as flesh meats, tea, coffee, and cocoa.
The liver, however, is able to destroy
much of the ingested purins, but if
through wrong habits of eating, this
organ has been rendered torpid and
incompetent, there is likely to be a fail-
ure in completing the work of oxidation
of these substances, thus retaining them
in greater quantities in the circulation
where they will appear in increased quan-
tities in the urine. This condition is
likely to interfere with removal of the
sarcolactic acid from the muscles, and so
results in a decreased alkalinity of the
blood.
Now a word with reference to uric
acid solvents. Admitting, for argument's
sake, that uric acid is the primal factor
in the disease, and that these solvents,
including the ** alkaline treatment", were
always successful in dissolving uric acid,
yet the treatment is temporizing and
their use irrational, for these remedies,
at most, but serve to neutralize the excess
of uric acid present at any one time in
the system and in no wise reach the
cause of the uric acid formation; and
the physician who merely treats the
symptoms as the pain and uricademia,
yet fails to pay attention to causal fac-
tors, as, for instance, the proper dieting
of his rheumatic patient, is likely to be
called again and again to treat the same
symptoms.
What are some of the etiological fac-
tors in this disease? We should like to
emphasize as factors the following: A
lack of metabolic power by the tissues at
large, and a lack of oxidizing power by
the liver in particular, both conditions
largely brought about by habitual over-
feeding, particularly upon a protein diet.
In the recent able work done by Prof.
Chittenden, the profession has been made
cognizant by thoroughly scientific experi-
ments that the average man in his habits
of eating is a gourmand, i.e., that the
ordinary amount of daily food ingested
is according to his most thorough and
convincing experimental proofs inor-
dinate.
One part of Prof. Chittenden's find-
ings — that concerning the amount of
albumin required by the system — we
found to be in harmony with a series of
experiments we carried out, some years
since, in connection with a well-known
sanitarium, in which one hundred and
twenty nurses and helpers were divided
into groups of six, and each group given a
particular article of diet to live upon for
an entire week. Both at the beginning
and at the close of the week, weight,
strength-tests, by a dynometer, were
taken, and an examination was also
made of both blood and urine. Some
groups were fed upon potatoes alone,
others upon legumes, nuts, eggs, milk,
fruits, respectively, some upon one kind
of fruit, and others upon a mixture of
fruits. Daily symptoms were carefully
noted and tabulated for the entire week.
Some interesting data were gathered.
We will here call attention to one of
these in particular. Those who lived
upon fruit alone, while sustaining a loss
in weight varying from six to thirteen
pounds, gained remarkably in strength,
in some cases as high as fifteen hundred
pounds, as tested upon the dynometer.
We interpreted this to mean not a loss
in weight, but a loss in waste. The
tissue organism had time and oppor-
tunity, afforded it upon the fruit diet, to
carry on more thoroughly the work of
elimination. This cleansing afforded
the muscles greater freedom and power
to contract. All who passed through
the experiment spoke of the increased
mental clearness and well-being up to
the close of the day.
28
AMERICAN COOKERY
On the other hand, those groups who
were fed upon a diet containing an ex-
cess of proteids, as beans, peas, lentils,
eggs, cottage-cheese, meat, while they
gained in weight, lost in strength. We
interpreted this as meaning not a true
gain in weight, but an accumulation of
waste; the tissues had become clogged
with debris of an excessive proteid diet,
to the extent of interference with free
muscular action. These groups suffered
from bilious attacks, heavily coated
tongues, foul breath, headaches, insom-
nia and general malaise. Here we would
call attention to the well known physio-
logical fact that nature has provided in
the system a store-house for excessive
ingesta of carbohydrates, in the liver
cell and muscle fiber; which excess can
be dealt out and utilized as the system
demands. One might eat a whole peck
of ripe peaches or a whole basket of
grapes in season, or a dozen baked pota-
toes or a couple of bowls of brown, well
cooked rice, and suffer no further in-
convenience than that of a temporarily
distended stomach, the excess being
stored as glycogen or liver starch. Not
so for an excess of albuminous food ; no
such store-house having been provided;
all above the amount required for the
daily repair of tissue wastes must be
worked over into crystalline extractives
and eliminated. And it is, doubtless,
these same extractives that are a prom-
inent factor in rheumatism.
The system requires a much larger
amount of the carbohydrates and hydro-
carbons in the form of starches, sugars
and fats for the production of both heat
and force, and greater quantities of these
food substances can be taken with im-
punity. We would, therefore, allow our
rheumatic patient an abundance of
starches, properly prepared, and sugars
in the form of fruits. There has been
in the past a tendency in these cases to
limit the ingestion of starches, and the
free administration of proteids has fol-
lowed instead. This doubtless has been
because of the usual accompanying
starch indigestion (amylacious dyspep-
sia) and the consequent production of
butyric, lactic, and acetic acids, thus in-
creasing the acid condition of the system.
This evil can be avoided by dextriniza-
tion of the starches (baking potato,
browning rice and cornmeal before cook-
ing, toasting bread-stuffs), and by cor-
rection of the dilatation of the stomach, a
condition which almost invaribly accom-
panies chronic cases as a strong causative
factor. In a tabulation of about two
thousand histories of rheumatism, we
found a majority suffering from gas-
troptosis, or stomach dilatation. As the
saliva, rather than the gastric juice, dis-
solves the starch, after reaching the
stomach, this strongly emphasizes the
necessity of a dry dietary, particularly
at the beginning of the meal, as a sali-
vary stimulant and as a means of induc-
ing most thorough mastication of food.
Some practitioners deprive their pa-
tients of all fruits, which I believe to be
an error. The organic acids of fruits,
such as malic, citric, and tartaric acids,
are transformed into alkaline carbon-
ates in the blood, and so avail to neutral-
ize the acid state of the blood. Fruit
acids also by their germicidal power pre-
vent the formation of abnormal acids in
the stomach and bowels, and certainly
are an aid to the liver in its cleansing
work upon the blood.
The fault in the administration of
fruits is usually that the practitioner for-
gets that the presence of acids checks the
action of the digestive enzymes upon
starch, and acid fruits are prescribed to
be taken at the same meal with starchy
vegetables. Let acid fruits, such as the
apple, orange, grapefruit, California
prune, blueberry, raisins, Malaga grapes,
be taken at one meal, preferably in the
morning, when the blood is normally
more alkaline and will more readily take
up acids ; and starchy vegetables be used
at the next meal. Usually there will be
but little interference with the starch of
well cooked bread-stuffs, particularly if
they have been prepared by twice baking
DIETETIC CURE OF RHEUMATISM
29
in the form of zwiebach. But we have
had some cases where it was necessary
to cut out even breads, and prescribe
fruit alone at the breakfast meal; and
really, this plan we consider preferable,
where the patieht can be educated to
adopt it.
The best dietary in most cases, for a
while at least, is no food at all. In other
words, what is needed is a complete fast
for a short period of time. This enables
the organism to rid itself of waste prod-
ucts and of its acid wastes by concen-
trating all of its vital forces to the work
of elimination. This process is further
hastened during this period (a brief one,
usually due to the impatience of the
client to return to regular feeding) by
the free use of distilled water as a bever-
age. Distilled water, being a fluid un-
saturated with mineral salts of any kind,
is of much greater value than the usual
mineral waters prescribed in this disease,
because the distilled water is capable of
becoming saturated with the debris of
the system present in rheumatism, and
in its passage out of the system removes
this debris.
Again, in a fast, time is allowed for
a recuperation of the working cells of
the glands of the entire body, which in
this disease are overworked; and no-
where is this regeneration of glandular
structure so apparent as in the glands
along the digestive tract. Stomach,
liver, pancreas, and intestines seem rap-
idly to assume new powers, like a tired
horse turned out to grass.
With perfect elaboration of food-prod-
ucts by the digestive organs, the suc-
ceeding steps of absorption, oxidation,
and anabolism are more perfect. Gen-
eral metabolic changes are brought to
completion.
We believe there is one food element
essential to the proper dieting of our
rheumatic patient that is generally over-
looked. We refer to oxygen. Every
particle of solid or liquid food we take
into our system must pass by the way of
the lungs, and there combine with oxy-
gen before it is of any value to the sys-
tem. As the carbon and hydrogen of
our food molecules unite with oxygen to
form water and carbon-dioxide gas, there
is a production of heat energy, a portion
of which energy is transformed into other
forms of energy as muscular power,
nerve force, glandular energy, and if
through lack of proper lung develop-
ment the system is deprived of this food
element, the remaining food elements,
whether in the form of albumin, starch,
or fat, are worse than useless.
What is demanded in these cases
is not only increased oxidizing power
for the liver, but to obtain these
we must have development of lung
power, all of which can be ob-
tained by physical exercise, deep
breathing movements, massage treat-
ments, and short cool baths.
A further word concerning lung devel-
opment. The average vital capacity
ranges from 225 to 250 cubic inches.
What is needed is not so much the con-
scious, deep breathing, which will occur
at stated intervals, but that which is
brought about by systematic lung de-
velopment; the unconscious increase of
tidal air that occurs at each breath,
amounting to, if only increased by one
cubic inch at each breath, from 25,000
to 30,000 cubic inches during a twenty-
four hour period, which increased capa-
city for oxygenated air means much in
our battle with this and many another
disease.
30
AMERICAN COOKERY
AMERICAN COOKERY
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THE SUMMER SCHOOL
Mrs. Hill's annual Summer School of
Cookery at South Chatham, New
Hampshire, begins this season on July
fifth. This is an ideal place for work
and out-door recreation combined.
Each morning dietetics, the cooking
and serving of foods are in order. The
actual processes of preparing and serving
meals are carried out here on a larger
scale and in a more explicit manner than
in any other place of which we are
aware. Each afternoon there is ample
opportunity for those who desire, to
enjoy out-door exercises and something
of camp life. Forty acres are in the
house lot; water, woods and mountains
are near by. The sure gains of a vaca-
tion here are in the way of instruction,
by an expert in culinary matter, personal
practice work, a pleasant outing and
invariably improved health. The dis-
tractions so common at summer resorts
are wanting.
A NEW PAGE
WITH this issue we begin a new
volume, the twenty-first of con-
tinuous publication. Now the time is
very favorable for new subscriptions to
the best, the most reliable, and, at the
same time, the cheapest of culinary
publications. The rapid rise in cost of
paper threatens necessary and imme-
diate increase in the price of sub-
scriptions to all periodicals, or certain
calamity and failure to the publishers.
Would that we might add during this
season to our list the names of new
subscribers sufficient to enable us to
tide over the stress of present business
conditions and continue along the line
we have followed so long. This
magazine is not erratic in conduct, that
is, subject to frequent changes, rather
it is conservative and co-operative in
character. This one thing we do, and we
try to do that well. Unless we are of
service in the household, we are nothing.
We desire to make American Cookery, m
every sense, worthy of the respect and
confidence of its readers. We appeal
to you for co-operation.
THE MATTER OF WORRYING
THERE is just one thing more
enervating than worrying too
much, and that is not worrying enough.
The philosophy in the advice Don't
Worry! is not the philosophy of practical
people, but of newspaper physicians,
beauty doctors, useless centenarians,
and cheerful cherubs generally. One
opens up the calendar for the new year
and the motto on January first, when
EDITORIALS
31
bills fall due, is Dont Worry! One
breaks a leg on the icy sidewalk and lies
abed when business is urgent, and the
nurse, discovering a degree or two of
perfectly justifiable fever, says sweetly,
Now Dont Worry! Was ever advice so
untimely ?
If love makes the world ,go 'round, it
is worry that makes it forge ahead. To
the Anglo-Saxon makers of our tongue,
to worry meant to strangle, to take the
wolf at the door by the throat and choke
him, not simply look timidly at him
through the keyhole and deplore his
presence. If a mother does not actively
worry when her children fall ill, the
chances are that she will allow the
unsanitary conditions which brought
them to this pass to continue. If a
father does not actively worry over his
growing boy he is likely to have a far
severer kind of worry to indulge in
when the boy reaches manhood. It is
a housewife's worrying over the pennies
that leaves the pounds free to take care
of themselves.
True serenity is not the negative
result of not worrying, it is the positive
result of fighting, and comes after, not
before, the battle. "Job's comforters,"
for all our sneering, were his good
friends. They found him disconsolate
upon an ash-heap, his mind an
amorphous fog of self-pity. Had they
told him not to worry he would, doubt-
less, have sat there, passively non-
worrying, to the end. As it was, before
they got through with him he was
justifying himself to his creator in good,
clear, energetic terms that promised well
for the future.
When the schoolboy says "I should
worry," he comes nearer to the truth
than he knows; and it is only because
he has already worried — worried his
way through problems to their solution,
and strangled the wolfish questions on
examination papers into silence, with a
decent display of knowledge — that
he can voice his present unconcern so
cheerfully. Were the business man to
stoop to the same slang phrase — per-
haps he does! — he would yet know in
his soul that he can only get to the top
by worrying his way there.
The man who doesn't worry is the
type of man who doesn't pay his rent.
The woman who never worries sits pas-
sively rocking while her children run at
large. But your true and capable
worker asks for no comforting palaver.
No rocking-chair for him! From much
strangling of wolves he has become an
expert wrestler. He is not at a loss in a
catastrophe. For he is like one who has
stooped in order that he may leap.
His muscles are taut, his vision clear,
and for him, "if the sky falls, there will
be catching of larks . " For non- worrying
Micawbers nothing turns up, but this
man will worry his bright, undaunted
way to the unattainable. h. C. C.
THREE FOR A QUARTER
COMING back to America after
keeping house for many years in
France and Germany, I am
struck with the way grocers and fruit
dealers make it hard for the American
housewife to buy in small quantities.
The retail dealer, if he is making no i
more than a fair profit on his goods can- ■ «
not afford to give more than 5% or 10%
discount for larger quantities, but in
America he has the habit of charging
ten cents, each, three for twenty-five
cents or fifteen cents, each, two for
twenty-five cents, or even ten cents
apiece, two for fifteen cents. This may
not be so in the case of necessities that
keep well, but it is unfair to the house-
wife buying perishable luxuries for a
small family. She has only a choice of
two evils, either to pay, for instance,
as we do here in San Diego, ten cents for
a bunch of celery, or two for fifteen
cents, when one is all she needs. This
means that the considerable part of
the family's income which goes for such
small purchases is paying the dealer a
second profit of 2>2>% in addition to his
legitimate profit, if she pays ten cents
32
AMERICAN COOKERY
for a single bunch of celery worth seven
and a half. It means getting $75 worth
of food for every $100 spent. If she
buys two bunches, she is spending twice
as much as she should.
There is no good reason why that
celery should not be sold for eight cents
a bunch. Why must prices be rounded
off to some multiple of five cents?
Why not offer strawberries for eight
cents a box, not three for twenty-five?
Half a pound of cranberries is enough for
a dish of sauce for two persons and would
cost six cents at twelve cents a pound.
While at two pounds for twenty-five
cents the housewife is tempted to buy
four times as much. When a dealer
prices more than the quantity a small
family needs at twenty-five or fifty
cents instead of twenty-four and forty-
eight cents, he gains 4% more profit,
while the housekeeper is tempted to
spend several hundred percent more
than she needs to, or else she must pay
an average of 25% more for the quantity
she wants.
The American woman has more
money to spend on her table than the
French or German woman, perhaps
twice as much, and some of the standard
food-stuffs are cheaper in America,
but this foolish custom of making some
multiple of five cents, the least ac-
ceptable amount to spend, tempts her
into extravagance and makes it as hard
for her to keep within her allowance.
The French woman can buy a head of
lettuce for two cents. She is not
expected to buy two for five cents.
She buys a quarter of a pound of mush-
rooms for six cents, not a whole pound
for twenty-five cents. She gets a bunch
of cooking celery for three cents, not
three for ten cents. And so she goes
home with enough lettuce, celery and
mushrooms for a total outlay of eleven
cents, where the American woman at
the same prices would spend twenty to
forty cents.
The German hausfrau is even better
off. The smallest coin in Germany is
the pfennig, worth a quarter of a cent,
and things are priced in odd pfennigs.
Eggs, for instance, are sold for six
pfennigs apiece in summer up to fifteen
in winter for fresh eggs. In winter,
when eggs are too dear to use freely, the
German woman will buy three for a
cake or pudding for forty-five pfennigs
or eleven cents, when the American
woman orders a dozen for fifty cents.
I believe that dealers will respond
to a demand by housewives for prices
based on fair profits for smaller quan-
tities with due regard for the odd cents.
My fruit dealer is satisfied to sell me a
box of strawberries when they are five
cents each. When they are a little
dearer he has learned not to offer me
four boxes for twenty-five cents, my.
needs have not increased fourfold, he
sells me one box for six cents. I wish
he would sell strawberries by the pound
as they do in Europe. You see then
what you are buying, half of that last
box was uneatable. B. W.
RIGHT POSTURE AID TO HEALTH
That right posture has a large part
to do with women's health, even more
than men's, was the leading point em-
phasized by Dr. Martin Edwards in
his talk at the Women's Municipal
League,
*'The Winged Victory did not stand
in a slovenly way," he said. "She stood
with her toes straight forward and her
abdomen in. This raised her chest,
threw back her shoulders and poised
her head automatically. Hers was the
attitude of efficiency, optimism, joy in
work and in play. She never wore tight
shoes nor restricting clothing; she never
lived in an ill ventilated house ; she never
spent top much time indoors, she never
spent whole afternoons and evenings
at bridge, and she was not prudish.
"She expressed cleanliness, balance,
poise of body and mind; hence she had
good health."
STRAWBERRY TART
Page 41
Seasonable and Tested Recipes
By Janet M. Hill
IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting
once, Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful.
Fresh Fish Chowder
TO serve six or seven people, se-
lect a fresh fish of the white va-
riety of about four pounds.
Cover three cups of pared-and-sliced
potatoes with cold water and let stand
an hour or longer. Cut off the head of
the fish, also cut out a strip about one-
third an inch wide down the back of the
fish to take out the fi^ns and small bones
attached; beginning at the broad end
pull off the skin from both sides, then
lift (with a knife) the flesh from the
bones on both sides ; cut this in two-inch
pieces and set aside. Break up the bone,
add the head and all the trimmings,
cover with cold water and set over the
fire; let heat slowly to the boiling point,
then simmer half an hour. Shake or
scrape the flesh from the bones, and
strain the fish liquid over it. Cut a two-
ounce slice of fat salt pork in bits and
let cook very slowly until the liquid fat
is removed; add an onion peeled and
cut in shreds and let cook until softened
and yellowed; add two cups of cold
water and let simmer fifteen minutes,
then drain, pressing out all the liquid
possible. Drain the potatoes, pour on
boiling water and let boil five or six
minutes, then drain, rinse in cold water,
drain and pour on the water in which the
pork and onions were cooked and the
fish broth; let cook until the potatoes
are nearly done; add the fish, a teaspoon-
ful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pep-
per, and let cook five minutes; add about
three cups of hot milk with salt and pep-
per as is needed to season. For a
thicker consistency, cream one-third a
cup of butter, beat in one-third a cup of
flour and stir into the hot milk ; let cook
about fifteen minutes, then add as above.
Serve in soup plates or in cream soup
cups.
Shrimps in Aspic Jelly
Pick the shells from one pint of
shrimps. Stir one and one-half table-
spoonfuls of granulated gelatine softened
in half a cup of chicken broth, the
slightly beaten white of one egg and the
crushed shells of several eggs into three
33
34
AMERICAN COOKERY
cups of chicken broth flavored with onion,
carrot, celery and thyme; set the H-
quid over a quick fire and stir con-
stantly until boiling; let boil five min-
utes, then stand in a warm place to settle,
then strain through a napkin wrung out
of hot water. Season with salt and pep-
per and let chill. Set a mold holding
one pint and one-half into ice and water;
when chilled turn in two or three table-
spoonfuls of the liquid; tip the mold,
to coat it slightly, and return to
the ice and water; set shrimps on the
bottom and around the edge close to
the mold, add slices of olives or other
decorations, then fill the mold, alter-
nately, with the shrimps and half-set
until nearly tender with the water at a
gentle simmer. Thirty minutes before
time of cooking will be completed, remove
the ham from the water to the rack in
a baking pan; remove the skin, pour
over half a cup of dried mushrooms that
have been soaked in a cup or more of
cold water and half a cup of the liquid
in which the ham was cooked. Baste
each five or six minutes. Serve with
currant jelly sauce.
Currant Jelly Sauce for Ham
Strain the liquid in the braising dish,
pressing out all the liquid possible; re-
move the fat with tissue paper. Cook
three tablespoonfuls of flour in the same
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MATERIALS FOR FRESH FISH CHOWDER
jelly and set aside to become firm. Serve,
unmolded, with lettuce or other green
vegetable and salad dressing. To un-
mold, set the mold in warm (not hot)
water to the full height of the jelly, let
stand about five seconds, remove, loosen
at the top if necessary, tip the mold from
side to side to let air between the jelly
and mold, then invert on the serving
dish.
Ham Braised with Dried
Mushrooms
Scrub the ham; if salty, let soak over-
night in cold water, otherwise set to
cook in cold water to cover ; heat gradu-
ally to the .boiling point,, then, kt- cook..
measure of the fat from the ham; add
one cup and a half of the liquid and half
a teaspoonful of beef extract and stir
until boiling; add two or three table-
spoonfuls of currant jelly and stir until
dissolved.
Chaudfroid of Beef Tenderloin
Trim a beef tenderloin neatly, tie
in shape, rub over with flour and let
brown in hot fat in a frying pan, first
on one side and then on the other. Use
fat from salt pork or olive oil. Set the
meat on a rack in a moderate oven and
let cook one hour, basting six times with
hot fat. Let cool under a board bear-
ing a weight to preserve the shape.
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
35
SHRIMPS IN ASPIC JELLY
Chaudfroid Sauce
Prepare a cup of mayonnaise dressing.
Soften one tablespoonful of gelatine in
one-fourth a cup of clarified broth or
consomme and dissolve by setting into
boiling water; add a few grains of salt
and paprika and stir until cool, then
quickly beat into the mayonnaise and
use to cover the top and sides of the beef,
or article to be covered. Have ready
hard-cooked egg, truffles, oHa'cs or ca-
pers, in suitable shapes for decoration,
and set upon the sauce in some symmet-
rical fashion; cover with consomme, in
which a tablespoonful of gelatine has
been dissolved, just on the point of set-
ting. To serve, slice very thin and
surround with a salad of green vegetables
or a combination of cooked and green
vegetables.
Veal Loaf
Pass three pounds and one-half of
raw^ veal (preferably from the round or
hind leg) , two ounces of fat salt pork and
two ounces of raw ham through a food
chopper; add six soda crackers, rolled
to fine crumbs, one-fourth a cup of dried
mushrooms, soaked in cold water,
chopped fine, one tablespoonful of salt,
three eggs well beaten, three table-
spoonfuls of rich cream, the water from
the mushrooms and a teaspoonful of
pepper; mix all together thoroughly and
shape into a compact roll, longer than
wide or thick. Slide into a baking dish,
set slices of fat salt pork above and let
CHAUDFROID . OF BEEF TENDERLOIN
36
AMERICAN COOKERY
bake three hours, basting often with the
fat in the pan. The oven should not be
too hot. Shce thin when cold. Serve
with salad. The loaf may be covered
with chaudfroid sauce, decorated and
the decorations covered with aspic jelly.
Noodles, Soubise Style
Cook a cup of noodles in boiling salted
water until done, replenishing the water
as needed; drain, rinse in cold water and
the bread crumbs (softened in stock
or milk and wrung dry), the salt, paprika
and mushroom peelings and stems
chopped fine. Mix and spread on the
pieces of veal. Roll each piece sepa-
rately, and fasten with wooden tooth
picks ; saute in hot salt pork fat ; put into
the casserole, add hot stock or milk
nearly to cover, and let cook about an
hour; add the peas, carrots, mushroom
caps and potatoes, stir in flour mixed
STUFFED VEAL CUTLETS EX CASSEROLE
drain again. Have ready mild onions
peeled and cooked ; press onions through
a strainer to make one cup and a half
of pulp and reheat ; add one-fourth a cup
of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a
little black pepper, and the noodles ; with
a spoon and fork lift the noodles to mix
all together thoroughly. Send to the table
around the ham or in a separate dish.
Stuffed Veal Cutlets en Casserole
1 thin slice veal cutlet
^ pound cheaper veal
2 slices bacon or fat salt
pork
I cup fine bread crumbs
1 teaspoonful onion juice
Salt and paprika
^ pound mushroom
caps
Stock or milk
Green peas
Potato balls
Carrot balls
Flour needed
Pound the veal to one-eighth of an
inch in thickness, cut in pieces three by
five inches. Scrape the pulp from
trimmings and the half pound of veal;
add one slice of the bacon chopped fine.
with water to thicken, also salt and
pepper as needed; return to the oven to
cook the vegetables. The potato and
carrot balls should be cooked in boiling
water five minutes, drained, dried and
cooked in the fat until lightly colored
before being added to the casserole.
The mushroom caps should be browned
without previous cooking.
Squabs en Casserole
Clean, wash and dry the squabs; truss
as for roasting or, if fully grown, cut each
in halves, through the back and breast;
rub over with flour and let brown in hot
salt pork fat or olive oil, turning to
brown all sides uniformly; set into a
casserole, add chicken broth or a tea-
spoonful of beef extract melted in a pint
of boiling water nearly to cover the
squabs, cover the dish and let cook in
the oven until nearly tender; add, for
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
37
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EGGS SHIRRED WITH SAUSAGE
each squab, two or three mushroom caps,
one small onion and six potato balls
browned in the fat ; add also salt and pep-
per to taste and let cook about fifteen
minutes. Serve in the casserole.
Blanch the onions and potatoes before
browning; cook the onions half an hour,
the potatoes ten minutes, then drain,
rinse in cold water and dry on a cloth.
Eggs Shirred with Sausage
Prick six sausages all over, set into a
small au gratin dish and let cook in the
oven until beginning to crisp; pour off
the fat and cut the sausage into pieces
an inch in length ; dispose these near the
sides of the dish and break three fresh
eggs into the center; pour one or two
tablespoonfuls of the hot fat over the
eggs and let cook in the oven until the
eggs are as firm as desired. Serve in the
bakingMish.
Lettuce, Cress-and-Tomato Salad
Carefully wash and dry the lettuce
and cress. Peel the tomatoes and cut
each in eight sections. Set several
branches of cress at each end of a serv-
ing dish with light-colored heart-leaves
of lettuce meeting at the center; dis-
pose the sections of tomato over the
stem ends of the lettuce. Pour French
dressing over the whole or serve the
dressing in a sauce-boat made for this
purpose.
French Dressing for Salad
Into a glass fruit jar turn half a cup
of olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of red-
wine vinegar, one-third a teaspoonful of
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika
and a scraping of onion pulp or juice;
adjust one or two rubbers and the cover
and shake vigorously until well blended
and thickened.
Blueberry Tea Cake
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter;
beat one Qgg\ beat half a cup of sugar
into the butter, the other half into the
Qgg and beat the two mixtures together.
Sift together two cups and one-half of
LETTUCE, CRESS-AND-TOMATO SALAD
3S
AMERICAN COOKERY
flour, five teaspoonfuls of baking powder
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and
add to the sugar mixture, alternately,
with three-fourths a cup of milk and beat
in one cup of blueberries. Bake about
twenty-five minutes in a hot, well-oiled
iron muffin pan.
Chocolate Marshmallow Cream
Roll
Beat four eggs light without separat-
ing the whites and yolks; gradually
beat in one cup of granulated sugar, one-
fourth a cup of cocoa (less may be used)
and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter;
then fold in one cup of sifted flour,
sifted again with one level teaspoonful of
and wash down the inside of the sauce-
pan, repeatedly, with the tips of the fin-
gers wet in cold water; cover and let boil
three minutes ; uncover and let boil until
a little of the syrup, when tested, will
form a soft ball in cold water (240° F. on
the sugar thermometer) ; pour in a fine
stream on the whites of two eggs beaten
very light, beating constantly mean-
while; add the marshmallows and beat
very hard. Flavor with half a tea-
spoonful of vanilla and beat occasion-
ally until cold.
Confectioners' Chocolate Frosting
Melt one square (or ounce) of choco-
late over boiling water; add two table-
p
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CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW CREAM ROLL
baking powder. Turn into a dripping
pan 13J X 8| inches, lined with buttered
paper, and let bake about twelve minutes
or until firm to the touch. Turn on to
a cloth or paper and trim off the crisp
edges; when cooled somewhat, spread
with marshmallow filling and roll like a
jelly-roll; roll in the cloth and let stand
half an hour or longer. Spread con-
fectioners' chocolate frosting over the
top.
Marshmallow Filling
Set one-fourth a pound of marsh-
mallows to heat and soften in a double
boiler. Melt one cup of granulated
sugar in one-fourth a cup of boiling water
spoonfuls of granulated sugar and three
tablespoonfuls of boiling water and stir
until smooth and boiling; add more
water if needed, a teaspoonful at a
time, then stir in sifted confectioners'
sugar to make a frosting of the proper
consistency to stay in place.
Cream Rhubarb Pie
Sift two level tablespoonfuls of corn-
starch with one cup of sugar and half a
teaspoonful of salt; pour on one cup of
boiling water and stir until boiling; add
the grated rind of one orange or lemon,
one cup of fine-chopped rhubarb, a
tablespoonful of butter and the beaten
yolks of three eggs; mix thoroughly and
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
39
OMELET, MELBA STYLE
turn into a plate lined with pastry as for
a custard pie; let bake about twenty-
five minutes, then cool a little. Beat
the whites of three eggs very light, then
gradually beat in half a cup of granu-
lated sugar, and spread over the top of
the pie; dredge with granulated sugar
and let bake in a moderate oven about
twelve minutes.
Omelet, Melba Style
Beat the yolks of five eggs until thick
and light colored and the whites until
very light and firm ; to the yolks add the
grated rind and juice of a lemon, one
tablespoonful of hot water, half a tea-
spoonful of salt and three tablespoon-
fuls of sugar and fold together until well
blended, then pour over the whites and
fold into the mixture. Melt two table-
spoonfuls of butter in a nine-inch frying
pan, tipping the pan to coat the whole
surface with the butter ; pour in the egg
mixture and make smooth on the top.
Let stand on the range a moment to
"set" the egg on the bottom, then put
into a moderate oven to cook until a
knife thrust into the center is removed
without uncooked egg adhering to it.
Score at right angles to the handle of the
pan; set some preserved or canned
peaches, sliced, on the lower half of the
omelet, pour on one or two tablespoon-
fuls of raspberry sauce, then fold and
turn upon a hot serving dish; set more
peaches above and around the omelet
and pour raspberry sauce over the whole.
To make the sauce from fresh berries,
let a pint of berries and a cup of sugar
be mixed together; after standing half
an hour, crush the berries with a pestle
and rub the pulp through a strainer.
With canned berries, press through a
sieve, cook until thickened, add sugar
and cook again, stirring to avoid
burning.
GRAHAM CRACKER CAKE
40
AMERICAN COOKERY
INDIVIDUAL STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
Graham Cracker Cake
Pineapple Pie (S. J. E.)
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream;
beat in two-thirds a cup of sugar, two
egg-yolks, beaten light, and, alternately,
one cup of milk and two-thirds a pound of
graham crackers rolled and sifted, then
sifted again with three level teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder, one-fourth a tea-
spoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful
of cinnamon or mace; lastly, beat in the
whites of two eggs beaten dry. Bake
in a pan about 12 x 7 inches. When
cold cut in halves and put together with
chocolate mocha frosting; cut in pieces
suitable for serving (3 x IJ inches) and
pipe more of the frosting above; finish
with half a maraschino cherry in the
center of the frosting.
Sift together one cup of sifted pastry
flour, and one-fourth a teaspoonful,
each, of salt and baking powder; cut
in four tablespoonfuls of shortening,
then add water, a little at a time, and
mix to a paste; turn two-thirds of the
pastry on a board dredged with flour to
coat it lightly with flour, then pat and
roll into a thin sheet; spread this over
an inverted plate, trim as needed on
the edge, prick all over with a fork and
let bake until done. When cooled a
little remove from the outside to the in-
side of the plate and turn in the filling.
Roll the rest of the pastry into a long
strip and cut into bands half an inch
wide; set these over the filling, lattice
BRIDE'S CAKE
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
41
fashion, dredge with granulated sugar,
and let bake until an amber color.
Serve partially cooled.
Filling for Pineapple Pie
Scald a can (about one pint) of grated
pineapple in a double boiler; sift to-
gether six (level) tablespoonfuls of corn-
starch, half a teaspoonful of salt and
one cup of granulated sugar until thor-
oughly mixed, then stir and cook in the
hot pineapple until the mixture thickens ;
cover and let cook about fifteen minutes ;
add two tablespoonfuls of butter and the
juice of half a lemon, mix thoroughly
and turn into the pastry.
Individual Strawberry Shortcakes
Sift together two cups of sifted pastry
flour, half a cup of cornstarch, five tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder and half a
teaspoonful of salt; cut in one-third a
cup of shortening. Beat one egg, add
three-fourths a cup of milk and stir into
the dry mixture, adding more milk, if
needed, to make a soft dough that cleans
the mixing bowl. Turn upon a floured
board, knead slightly, pat and roll into
a thin sheet and cut into rounds with a
fluted patty cutter dipped in boiling
water each time before use. Bake in
a quick oven. Split each biscuit and
spread with butter. Put the two pieces
together with sugared berries between
and on top. Finish with whipped
cream, or a spoonful of confectioners'
sugar. To prepare the berries, hull,
wash and drain, cut in halves and let
stand some time mixed with granulated
sugar; stir occasionally to facilitate the
melting of the sugar.
Strawberry Tart
(Page 33)
Cut out a round of puff or flaky paste
about seven inches in diameter; lay a
white paper on a baking sheet and slide
the pastry upon it; pipe a row of chou-
paste on the edge of the round of paste
and let bake until done (about 12 min-
utes). Pipe the rest of the pastry on
a buttered baking sheet, using a star
tube and making rosette-shapes. Let
bake until they feel light and dry. Stir
a little boiling water into half a cup of
confectioner's sugar. Set the round of
pastry on a serving dish, dip the under
side of the rosettes in the sugar paste and
press them on the chou -paste on the edge
of the round; set these close together
and entirely around the pastry. When
ready to serve, fill with one or two baskets
of strawberries, hulled, washed, cut in
halves and mixed with sugar. Deco-
rate with whipped cream or a little con-
fectioner's sugar. To serve, cut as a
pie in triangular pieces. Let the berries
stand mixed with the sugar half an hour
or longer before use.
Bride's Cake
I 1 level teaspoonful
i baking powder
I 4 egg whites, beaten
I light
I cup butter
1^ cups sugar
Grated rind 1 lemon
^ cup milk
2 1 cups flour I
Cream the butter; gradually beat in
the sugar and grated rind; add the milk,
alternately, with the flour sifted with the
baking powder, and, lastly, the egg-
whites. Bake in a tube pan about forty
minutes. When cold cover with a boiled
frosting into which half-melted marsh-
mallows are beaten. See May number
of magazine. Flavor the frosting with
one-fourth a teaspoonful of almond and
half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract.
Fruit Punch
(Page 9)
Mix together one pint of fresh-made
tea, the juice of six lemons, the juice of
one dozen oranges, one cup of prune
juice, 2 cups of pineapple juice (canned
grated pineapple wrung in a cloth) , 2 cups
of strawberry syrup or juice, one cup of
sugar syrup and two quarts of water;
store in glass jars, carefully sealed, in a
refrigerator; when ready to use, add
plain or carbonated water to suit the
taste.
Balanced Menus for Week in June
Breakfast
Strawberries
Finnan Haddie Balls, Bacon .
Radishes Pop Overs
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Tomato-and- Chicken Bouillon
Cheese Tid Bits (crackers)
Beef Tenderloin, Roasted
Mashed Potatoes,Vienna Style Green Peas
Lettuce and Garden Cress, French Dressing
Graham Bread Strawberry Sherbet
Graham Cracker Cake
Supper
Creamed Asparagus on Toast
Sugared Strawberries
Cake Tea
Breakfast
Strawberries
Salmon-and- Potato Cakes
Bacon Cress
Graham and French Bread, Toasted
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Cream of Asparagus Soup
Cheese Tid Bits (crackers)
Cream Rhubarb Pie Grapejuice
Dinner
Baked Ham, Currant Jelly Sauce
Spinach
Scalloped Potatoes
Cottage Pudding, Strawberry Sauce
Cream Cheese Half Cups Coffee
Breakfast
Puffed Rice, Stewed Prunes
Eggs Cooked in the Shell
Baking Powder Biscuit
(whole wheat)
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Cold Beef Tenderloin
Sliced Asparagus cooked as Peas
Creamed Potatoes
Rhubarb Pie Tea
Dinner
Boiled Fowl, Bechamel Sauce
Bermuda Onions
Lettuce, Cress and Sliced Tomatoes,
French Dressing
Date Whip, Cream and Sugar
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Spanish Omelet
Cornmeal Muffins French Rolls, Toasted
Orange-and-Pineapple Marmalade
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Cold Baked Ham, Sliced Thin
Cold Spinach with Sliced Eggs,
Mayonnaise Dressing
Wholewheat Bread and Butter
Jell-0 with Strawberries
Dinner
Breaded Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce
New Cabbage, Boiled
New Potatoes Fried in Deep Fat
Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing
Pineapple Pie
Breakfast
Frizzled Dried Beef
White Hashed Potatoes
Radishes
Lady Finger Rolls (reheated)
Rhubarb Marmalade Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Chicken Roll, Bechamel Sauce
Lettuce, French Dressing
Baked Tapioca Pudding, Vanilla Sauce
Tea
Dinner
Tomato-and- Chicken Soup
Boiled Fresh or Salted Salmon, Egg Sauce
Boiled Potatoes
Cucumbers, French Dressing with Chives
Green Peas
Individual Strawberry Shortcakes
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Sliced Bananas,
Thin Cream
Eggs Shirred with Cream
and Ham
Boston Brown Bread (reheated)
German Coffee Cake
Coffee Cocoa
Breakfast
Corn Puffs, Thin Cream
Calf's Liver and Bacon
Small Baked Potatoes Ryemeal Biscuit
Potato Doughnuts Blueberries
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Ham Timbales, Cream Sauce
French Fried Potatoes
New Cabbage Salad
Frozen Apricots Honey Cookies
Tea
Dinner
Filets of Blue Fish Stuffed and Baked
Mashed Potatoes New Stringless Beans
Cucumber-and-Radish Salad
Frozen Apricots (left over)
Macaroons
Luncheon
Cream of Spinach Soup
Hot Ham Sandwiches
Poor Man's Rice Pudding
(large raisins)
42
Dinner
Cannelon of Beef, en Surprise,
Brown Sauce
Franconia Potatoes Green Peas
Lettuce, French Dressing with
Onion Juice
Chocolate Marshmallow Cream
Roll, Hot Chocolate Sauce
Balanced Menus for Week in July
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Eggs Shirred with Bread Crumbs
and Asparagus Tips
Blueberries
Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated)
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Steamed Fowl, Browned in Oven
Mashed Potatoes Beet Greens
Summer Squash, well Buttered
Omelet, Melba Style Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Creamed Clams
Cold Beet Greens with SHced Eggs,
French Dressing
Sugared Pineapple Wholewheat Bread
Breakfast
Red Raspberries
Curry of Sword Fish Small Baked Potatoes
Spider Corn Cake Toast
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Stuffed Veal Cutlets en Casserole
Lettuce and Peppergrass, French Dressing
Boiled Onions, Buttered
Raspberry Sherbet or
Raspberry Bavarian Cream
Nabisco Wafers
Supper
Green Peas
Dry Toast
Hot Blueberry Tea Cake, Butter
Cream Cheese
Tea
Breakfast
Puffed Rice, Thin Cream
Blueberries Creamed Dried Beef
Mashed Potato Cakes, Saute
French Bread, Toasted
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Ham Braised with Mushrooms,
Currant Jelly Sauce
Potatoes Scalloped with Green Pepper
New Cabbage, Boiled and Buttered
Blueberry Pie
Supper
Fowl Scalloped with Kornlet
Red Raspberries
Baking Powder Biscuit Tea
* Breakfast
Quaker Oats, Milk
Eggs Shirred with Sausage
Wholewheat Muffins Blueberries
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Cannelon of Beef, en Surprise
String Beans
Scalloped Tomatoes
Canned Apple Pie Cottage Cheese
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Cheese Pudding
Cold String Beans, French Dressing
with Onion Juice
Black Raspberries Honey Cookies
Breakfast
Cereal, Thin Cream
Cold Ham, Sliced Thin, Radishes
■ Potatoes Hashed in Milk
Cornmeal Muffins French Bread, Toasted
Orange or Kumquat Marmalade
Dinner
Green Pea Soup (Chicken Broth)
Sword Fish, Fried
Lettuce with Beets, Stuffed with
Chopped Cucumber, French Dressing •
Wholewheat Bread
Individual Raspberry Shortcakes
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham
Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted
Blueberries Graham Cracker Cake
Tea
Breakfast
Oranges
Broiled Sardines on Toast
Cream of Wheat Mush, Fried
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Emergency Soup
Baked Bluefish, Italian Style, Olives
Mashed Potatoes Summer Squash
Lettuce-and-Mustard Leaves,
French Dressing
Lemon Sherbet
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Creamed Dried Beef
Baked Potatoes
French Rolls Stewed Prunes
Tea
Breakfast
Blueberries, Thin Cream
Salt Mackerel Cooked in Milk
Small Baked Potatoes
Potato Doughnuts
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Boiled Corn Beef
Boiled Potatoes
New Turnips, Boiled Beet Greens
Delmonico Pudding with Canned
Peaches
Half Cups Coffee
43
Supper
Mayonnaise of Lettuce and
Sliced Eggs
Graham Bread and Butter
Junket Ice Cream
Cooking Out-of-Doors
By Mrs. J. V. Roach
A LITTLE attention to essential
details will often convert an
uncomfortable vacation, "just
roughing it", into most delightful days
of outing. Bad cooking has caused more
unpleasantness among friends in camp
than any other one discomfort. Lovers
of out-of-doors, who will bear up stoically
under heavy rains, leaky tents and
mosquitoes, will succumb before a piece
of doughy, smoked camp bread; and
yet there is no need to court discomfort
when camping, by having bad or in-
digestible food.
The simplest way to cook while in
camp is over a stove or fireplace made
by digging a hole one foot deep and two
feet square and partly filling it with
stones. Around three sides build a
wall about eight inches high and on top
place a large, fiat stone, leaving an
opening at the back for the smoke to
escape. Or you can take with you a
piece of thin sheet iron for the top of
your stove, in case a stone, large and
fiat enough, cannot be found; the iron
heats much quicker and can be obtained
for a small sum. Of course, a portable
folding camp stove is ideal for cooking
but, when just out for the sport of
roughing it, a fireplace made on the
spot will do very well .
It is a good plan to gather a supply of
wood and keep it in a dry place so that
your patience will not be strained to the
breaking point trying to cook after a fall
of rain has soaked everything. Any
sort of wood will do for ordinary cooking,
but for broiling or baking in the hot
ashes, coals from hardwood are best.
The most desirable and nutritious
articles that can be easily packed and
transported are fiour, cornmeal, navy
beans, coffee, tea, salt, pepper, baking
powder, condensed milk or milk powder,
bacon or salt pork, butter, sugar, onions
and potatoes. If more of a variety is
desired, add a few cans of tomatoes and
some dried fruits.
To make good coffee at home is a
science; to make coffee in camp is an
art. One of the secrets of successful
coffee is the thorough washing of the
pot every time it is used, as there is a
little bitter oil which fills every available
corner in the pot, and. one day old, spoils
the best efforts at coffee making.
Another secret in making camp coffee
is to keep the pot closed, even stopping
up the spout so that none of the aroma
can escape in the open air. Allow one
tablespoonful of ground coffee to each
cup of water and one tablespoonful
extra for good measure; start with cold
water and shove forward to a hot place
on the camp stove to let come to a boil
when the rest of the meal is ready to
serve; dash in half a cup of cold water
and let stand a few minutes to settle,
and the coffee will be clear and a joy
to the dweller in tents.
Camp bread is one of the tests of a
good outdoor cook. The commonest
fault is in having too much heat; the
beginner usually burns the first few
batches of biscuit. The simplest utensil
for baking in camp is a shallow iron
kettle standing on three legs and with
an iron cover, or an iron griddle with a
heavy cover can be used; for either
44
COOKING OUT-OF-DOORS
45
baker rake coals to one side from the fire,
set utensil over them, place biscuit in-
side, cover, and heap coals on top and
leave from twenty minutes to half an
hour. A cook soon learns the right
amount of heat necessary to bake the
different camp breads. Camp biscuit
are made by mixing one quart of flour,
five level teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
one teaspoonful of salt, and one-third
a cup of butter or pork drippings, with
sufficient water to make a dough easily
handled. Mold into small cakes and
bake in baker. If you want to make
butter cakes, mold biscuit dough into
flat cakes and bake slowly in iron griddle
on top of stove, turning several times to
prevent burning; split while warm and
butter. For corn bread mix cornmeal
with cold water or milk, season with
salt, grease kettle liberally, and bake in
thin sheet with plenty of hot coals both
below and on top of kettle.
Very convenient for the camper is the
prepared flour which is accurately mixed
with the leavening and only requires
wetting with milk or water to make
pancakes. Have the pancake batter the
consistency of thick cream and pour on
piping hot griddle, well oiled; when
the pancakes begin to bubble, it is time
to turn them over to bake on the other
side. Cornmeal pancakes are made
by mixing two cups of meal with one of
flour and four or five level teaspoonfuls
of baking powder; season with salt and
bake on hot griddle.
Beans, one- of the main reliances for
the woodsman, are delicious cooked in a
bean-hole. This must be dug deep and
wide and lined with small stones. In
making the fire, hardwood should be
used, and when the fire is reduced to a
bed of coals, remove half of them, insert
the pot of beans, closely covered, and
pack the coals that were removed
closely about the sides and top; then
pile dirt on top of all and stamp down
well to make it air-tight. If the beans
have been boiled until the skin will
crack, it will take about ten or twelve
hours for them to cook in a bean-hole.
The beans should be soaked overnight
before boiling and salt pork added to
them before placing in bean-hole, always
being sure that plenty of water is used
to prevent scorching.
A fireless cooker will prove first aid to
the camp cook and is so easily made
that every camp should be supplied
with one. All that is needed for this
convenience is a yard of asbestos, that
can be folded away in the camp outfit
for transportation. Line a hole in the
ground with common newspaper with
an inner lining of asbestos and fill hole
with dry leaves or grass ; make a nest in
the center of leaves, lining it with
asbestos, large enough to hold a kettle
with tight-fitting lid. Cover the kettle
when in use as a cooker with more as-
bestos and pile leaves or hay over all
with a liberal coating of sand or dirt to
exclude air. The great secret of cooking
in this fireless cooker is to have the
food boiling in the kettle, being careful
not to lift lid to allow steam to escape,
before placing in hole or nest. Cereals
can be prepared overnight in this
primitive cooker, or food, requiring a
number of hours to cook, can be kept
cooking all day and will be ready for
campers returning at night from a day's
tramp or fishing.
Game can be cooked over the camp-
fire to suit an epicure: Draw, skin and
wash a bird and split up the back;
flatten out with the side of an ax and
season with salt and pepper. Let a fire
from hardwood burn down to a bright
bed of coals ; remove top of fire place and
broil halves of birds fastened on the ends
of long sticks. Butter when nearly
done and hold over fire a moment to
brown. To roast birds in their feathers,
draw and wash thoroughly inside,
seasoning with salt and pepper liberally;
then cover outside with wet clay and
bury in red hot coals. In forty minutes
remove from fire; peel off clay and the
feathers and skin will come, too; pour
melted butter over birds before serving:.
46
AMERICAN COOKERY
Fish is best fried in hot fat, first
rolling in corn meal and seasoning well
with pepper and salt. If you want to
test a fireless cooker, a chowder is a
delicious meal to return to after a day
spent in exploring nearby woods and
hills: Cut a slice (2 or 3 ounces) of salt
pork into cubes, clean and cut up about
three pounds of fish into small pieces,
slice six large potatoes and three onions,
cover with water and boil, seasoning
with pepper and salt; when boiling
briskly pack in fireless cooker for
several hours. A dash of tomato sauce
adds to the flavor of the chowder. (See
recipe for fish chowder in Seasonable
Recipes this issue of magazine.)
To keep the lover of sweets from
getting homesick for the desserts served
at home, dumplings can be made from
ripe fruits. Make a dough as for camp
biscuits and mold into fiat round disks ;
by the way, a bottle is a good substitute
for a rolling pin and a piece of white
oilcloth makes an excellent baking
board. Into each disk place a table-
spoonful of stewed fruit — apricots are
delicious — and pinch dough tightly
together, making a round ball with the
fruit all snugly covered up in the center ;
have a kettle of boiling water ready and
drop the balls in and cook twenty
minutes. Serve with sugar and butter.
There are any number of simple camp
dishes that can be easily prepared by
the cook with the interest of the campers
at heart. But equally as important as
the cooking is the housekeeping arrange-
ment while in camp, which should be as
cleanly and orderly as in the home
kitchen. All garbage should be burned
and refuse of every kind either burned
or buried before it draws insects. Every-
thing possible should be kept in air-
tight receptacles and no food should be
exposed to the dust or insects. A wise
cook soon learns how much to prepare
for each meal so that the cooked food
can always be fresh cooked. This keep-
ing clear of left-overs in camp is an easy
matter, as hearty appetites will often
make a bit of lunch between meals
acceptable. All food, fresh, clean and
well cooked, will keep the tempers of
the campers equally as fresh, sweet and
clean and life in the out-of-doors will
prove a joy to the soul and health to
the body.
Through Peace To Light
I do not ask, O Lord, that life may be
A pleasant road;
I do not ask that thou should 'st take from me
Aught of its load.
I do not ask, O Lord, that thou shouldst shed
Full radiance here;
Give but a ray of peace, that I may tread
Without a fear.
I do not ask that flowers should always spring
Beneath my feet;
I know too well the poison and the sting
Of things too sweet.
I do not ask my cross to understand,
My way to see —
Better in darkness just to feel thy hand,
And follow thee.
For one thing only, Lord, dear Lord, I plead
Lead me aright —
Though strength should falter and though heart
should bleed —
Through peace to light.
Joy is like restless day, but peace divine
Like quiet night;
Lead me, O Lord, till perfect day shall shine,
Through peace to light.
Adelaide Proctor.
What a Housekeeper Should Know About "Calories"
By Edwin Tenney Brewster
THERE is many a housekeeper,
and many a "mealer," who would
be glad to utilize something of
our sound modern knowledge of foods
and diet — to the probable advantage to
health, and the certain profit to pocket-
book.
But there is a lion in the way. All
scientific nutrition is founded on the
"calorie." And "calorie" sounds so very
formidable and scientific that most of us
are frightened off at the start and never
really get under way with what might ^
be a useful and interesting branch of
knowledge.
Yet the panic is quite unbased. The
"calorie" is simply the name for the
work done in lifting one hundred pounds
thirty feet into the air. It is -one cal-
orie of work to pump a hundred pounds
of water out of a thirty-foot well; or
weighing one hundred pounds, to climb
three flights of stairs ten feet between
floors. ' Any sort of pull or push that
gives 3000 as the product of the force
and the distance involves one calorie
of work though it be a locomotive pull-
ing a load of freight one inch or a swallow
skimming over miles.
Much of the work, however, which we
human beings do, does not show. Our
hearts pump all day long and all night.
We suck in our breath several times
a minute. We keep pulling our muscles
merely to hold ourselves in place. It
takes work to digest the food that
makes any work possible. In a cold
climate half the day's labor is in keep-
ing warm.
One thing with another, a woman
playing lady does about 1800 calories
of work each day. A hard worked
farmer may do twice as much. It may
take forty calories an hour to maintain
a fever; a hundred more to walk rapidly
than to lie still, five hundred to play
through a football match. In brief,
one calorie per minute is about a tenth
of a horsepower; and we commonly,
one thing with another, do rather less
than twenty calories each day for each
pound of weight.
But unfortunately for the beginner
at scientific housekeeping there are
three different units all called by the
same name, calorie. The dictionaries
define "calorie" as the work done in
heating one gram of water through one
centigrade degree. This is the so-
called "small calorie" — the one used by
physicists. This calorie is only one
thousandth of the household unit, the
so-called "large" calorie. It is, in other
words, the work done in lifting one
pound about three feet. Alas, there
are many magazine articles and, at least,
one school textbook of household science,
which copy the dictionary definition
of one calorie and then use everywhere
the other — to the reader's marked
confusion.
The dietetic calorie is then a thou-
sand times greater than the dictionary
one — the work done in lifting a hun-
dred pounds about thirty feet, or in
heating a thousand grams of water
just one degree. This "large" calorie
is, therefore, often called the "kilogram
calorie." Since, however, a kilogram
of water — two and two tenths pounds
— measures just a liter, the English,
especially, sometimes speak of it as
the "liter calorie."
Large calorie, kilogram calorie, and
liter calorie are, then, only different
names for the same thing. Plain
"calorie," unqualified, should always
mean this unit when used of the food
or the work of individuals or families.
But while we measure dress goods in
yards, we commonly reckon the dis-
tance from New York to Chicago in
47
48
AMERICAN COOKERY
miles. Likewise, when we discuss the
nutrition of a nation, we use a still
larger "calorie," the kiloliter calorie,
which is a thousand ''large" calories.
Farmers, also, in feeding stock, find
this the most convenient unit. "Therm"
is the farm name for it.
Turning now to the other side of the
ledger, for every calorie of work that
we do, we must digest a calorie's worth
of food. If we take less, we shall do our
work on our own tissues and lose weight.
If we assimilate more food than we work
off, we shall grow heavier — which
may or may not be an advantage.
But foods differ greatly in their
nutrition. A pint of beef -broth con-
tains only 40 calories of energy, so
some eight gallons would be needed
to put one through a light day's labor.
The same day's effort could be made on
a peck of turnips; or on three and a
half pounds of lean beef; or on some-
what more than one pound of bread-
and-butter, depending on who did the
spreading.
The obvious way, then, to reckon
the nutriment of any food is in calories-
per-pound. This is the commonest
unit, and the one used by the United
States Department of Agriculture in
its famous "Bulletin 28" and other
publications. Persons on diet, on the
other hand, since they rarely eat a
pound of any one thing at a meal, find the
calorie-per-ounce, the more convenient
unit. The nutrition tables of the san-
atorium at Battle Creek, for example,
and the nutrition values on the daily
menu cards are all in calories-per-ounce.
Practically, a housekeeper purchasing
for her family, interested in getting the
most nutrition for her money, and com-
monly buying by the pound, will find it
most convenient to think in calories-per-
pound. But a "mealer", watching his
food as it comes on the table, often will
think more easily in calories-per-ounce.
If we ever reach a stage of civilization
where we are able to use the calories-
per-gram, that will be very much the
easiest of all.
So after all, the "calorie" is not
really formidable. It is merely, on the
one hand, the measure of the worker's
toil, and on the other, of the energy
in his food which makes that toil pos-
sible. So much "work" for the body
— so much "nutrition" in the food —
and the same unit for measuring them
both.
But the foundation of frugal purchase
and of wise consumption is in learning
to think "calories" of foodstuffs, as
one thinks "yards" of dress goods, or
"blocks" of distance.
The tables in the author's " Nutrition of a
Household" are nearly or quite unique in printing
fuel values in both calories -per-pound and
calories-per-ounce.
A Mountain Evening
Within the vale the thrushes tell
The watches of the eve,
And on the heights the pines in grief
Immemorial grieve.
Below where shadows blend in dusk
Appears a bud of light
That blooms into a golden rose.
The fairest of the night.
The shy wind woos the wild-rose heart
In forest bowers deep,
And brook to brook is murmuring
The secret themes of sleep.
And toward the homelight's beckoning glow,
The road's dim length along
A lassie goes with happy step,
Singing an old love song!
, Arthur Wallace Peach.
On Being Early in the Country
By Beulah Rector
SO far, not even a neighbor's offer
of a bushel of crabapples for jelly
has been sufficient to prolong our
autumn stay in the country. It is one
of the most provoking things I know, —
seeing the red leaves hung up, the road-
sides banked with purple asters, hearing
the preliminary orchestral sounds of
cricket and blue jay, sniffing the frost
in the air, and then just before the cur-
tain rises on this pageant of October in
the Hills having to troop back to town
to get the younger children ready for
school.
But in June our time comes. Then
do we feel in a measure even with the
friends who wrote all fall how sunny and
warm the days still were; how like a
mountain on fire Monadnock looked
with her scarlet leaves!
While the Bushnells are arguing with
the builder of their new house in Texas,
we are nodding to the Strafford post-
mistress and asking the Joslyn boys how
much ice they cut in the winter. While
the Scherrers are still doing their New
York clothes-buying, we are driving up
the country road with our baggage.
Complacently, we note that the Davis'
cottage is tight with shutters, and the
grass on the Bradfords' lawn is as high
as your knees.
Well as we know our old-fashioned
cottage, it is always with a spirit of
unexpectedness that we explore the
rooms. But for this we never have but
a few minutes. Almost immediately a
little voice calls, "Mrs. Bixby wants you
to come over and see the new Jersey
calf."
''And the dining room they papered
themselves, and the baby pig," puts in
another.
Of course, we must go. Indeed, we
always expect to go before unpacking
the trunks and deciding who shall have
what bureau drawers, and how the
shelves in the sitting room cupboard
shall be divided.
We feel the season has been properly
opened then, when the new animals have
been reviewed, and the freshly papered
rooms exclaimed over, and Jim's tulip
bed admired, which was "so handsome
when the flowers was all blowed."
It is reassuring to discover that these
good farming neighbors of ours are still
"just the same." Mrs. Bixby continues
to say, "Dear, dear!" and laughs with
one eye shut and a plump hand held over
her mouth. Horace Bixby relates what
he likes best to eat, how rugged he used
to be when he was young, what the next
war will be; nor does he omit to remark
each morning as he lurches rheumat-
ically in with the milk, "Up kinda early
this mornin', ain't you?"
"I'd rather be here early now," sug-
gests Isabel breaking into her brown egg
at the supper table, "than have stayed
last fall and had it all over."
It is a sentiment in which we all share.
This really would be the opportunity
for writing our late-staying friends a
number of tantalizing things about lilac
odors, June pinks, bird song, the grass
cut under our windows that makes the
air sweet as Indian baskets.
These days in early June have a char-
acter all their own. They are very
green and wonderfully still. We thrill
with gratitude to feel the quick grass
under our feet as we step from the front
door. Charmed, awed, we are content
to stay about our white cottage. Why
go adventuring when right at home we
know that while revelling in the beauty
of the hills seen from the front yard, we
are missing the little wild back yard with
its lapful of buttercups and caraway
flowers, and the mountain beyond with
its changing cloud shadows?
49
50
AMERICAN COOKERY
Unless Jim Bixby catches them, our
neighbors' chickens are safe in the road
these days; for no automobiles pass.
Indeed, the only vehicle whose coming
is assured is the rattling Rural Delivery
buggy at five, — the only thing beside
hunger and the sun to really mark the
time of day.
Occasionally, a single wagon creaks
by, a dull-looking man and woman on
the seat, a child squeezed in between
them.
If the St. Bernard comes suddenly
across the lawn, head up, tail out, and
starts in business-like fashion down the
road, we recall it is butcher's day, and
pretty soon Mrs. Bixby herself waddles
out and takes her place under the wagon
flap, Roger waiting patiently for the
bone which he will probably have to
"bury up," being at present too aware
of a recent woodchuck steak.
Or'Ta Mason," the grocer, drives up
with his white-faced horse, delivers his
order, and not being rushed in the early
season, takes a chair and narrates his
experience as a prisoner in Anderson-
ville half a century ago.
More rarely the Tea Man goes
through in his black cart. No wonder
the sound of wheels comes to bring the
country people to the windows. After
a time we, too, involuntarily make a
like response.
Then one day we hear that "Grandma
Joslyn" has been seen crocheting on the
porch of her old gray hill house. * ' Grand-
ma' ' is known to move from her winter
quarters in the valley to her summer
quarters on the hill with the same reg-
ularity that a certain housekeeper of my
acquaintance puts up strawberries. Al-
ways, June fourteenth. Never before or
after. I glance in alarm at the calendar.
Can it be our shining days are already
dropping away — that our longest day
is so near?
While facing this unhappy possibility.
the youngest boy proudly holds forth
a pail of ripe blueberries. They desire
canning rubbers and it is my turn to go
to the grocer's.
In the store, where but a week pre-
viously the veteran had invited me to a
seat on the bread-box and told of his
last G. A. R. encampment, the atmos-
phere had changed.
One customer has just gone out. A
little boy comes in with a note requesting
a pound of mixed cookies. The old
gentleman holds the paper in trembling
fingers, fumbles for another pair of
spectacles, then turning to the child with
the shaking note says, "We're so rushed
now, Prentiss, can you wait and come
back at noon?"
Something has happened. On the
way up the hill I met Mrs. Walter
Seaver bound for the Ladies' Aid.
She waves her sewing-bag at me.
"We're getting ready for the church
fair; there's only six more weeks, you
know."
"As I near our own little white cottage
under the maples, I catch a glimpse of
Mrs. Bixby waving from her back porch.
She has news. I see it in her very bear-
ing. "Hattie Barker's just telephoned
over that the Scherrers' trunks came on
the eleven o'clock freight, and Miss
Em'ly'll be here to-morrow. That'll
be in time for her to have her Fourth of
July party next week, same as she always
does."
"Fourth of July next week?" I stare
in amazement. I open the door of the
cottage that has seen a century of
Independence Days. "Fourth of July
is only a week away. The Scherrers
are coming to-morrow," is my wistful
proclamation.
"Well," — and there is a suggestion
of triumph at the priority, — "weren't
we here the fourth of June, — weeks
and weeks before any of the other city
people thought of coming?"
Home Ideas
and
«EcONOMIE.S^
Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be
paid for at reasonable rates.
Home-made Dollars
THESE days every business has a
side-line," twinkled my friend,
the music teacher, "even I have
mine. Not long ago I came across some
particularly good greeting cards, and
purchased several to have ready for the
needful occasions. I had left these lying
on the table in the music-room when a
piano tuner came to the house and
happened to notice them. 'Why,' he
exclaimed, 'I've been looking for just
such cards. You wouldn't sell any, I
suppose?' I told him I would.
" Only a few weeks later I had a letter
from a complete stranger. She had
heard I knew the source of certain
clever cards and wondered where she
could find more like the one I sent her.
I began to think; I wrote the author-
publisher of cards, and to-day I'm
making odd bits of pin money with a
Greeting Card Agency."
In our town is a girl who was regret-
ing that she was unable to earn anything
at home. She heard one of the high
school teachers complaining about the
many essays that had to be ' corrected
outside of school hours. This college
girl thought the matter over, then went
to the high school principal and dis-
cussed it with him. The superintend-
ent was likewise consulted. Shortly
afterward, it was decided to hand all the
essay correcting over to the college girl
and to pay her twenty-five cents an
hour for her efforts. Thus, still re-
maining at home and using only her
spare time, she was enabled, by work-
ing a few hours a day, to earn between
twelve and fourteen dollars a month.
The demand for home-made cakes at
church suppers started another young
person into a good field. Ladies serving
_on supper committees did not always
find it convenient to do their own cake
baking, and first one and then another
left their orders with my friend. But
this was merely the beginning. With
care and infinite patience popularity
soon followed, and to-day, if there is
a sale or an afternoon tea, or even a
wedding, they say, "Let's telephone
Miss Goodwin to make the cake and
sandwiches."
At a much-frequented skating park
an alert girl saw in the hungry skaters an
opportunity for money making. One
day a week store-sandwiches and coffee
were sold in a stuffy coat room. There
was ready sale for these wares, but
never enough to go around. So one
Saturday when the pond was sure to be
thronged, she despatched thither a
small boy with a large basket placarded
"Sandwiches." Before dark the little
boy was back; his basket was empty,
but his pockets jingled with dimes and
nickels. This plan has worked well;
she will try it again when the pleasure
seekers return for boating and picnicking
in the summer.
A good cook certainly possesses an
enviable talent. One woman with such
ability has made quite a success in giving
private lessons to girls intending to be
married. Twice a week she goes to the
homes of each of these girls under her
instruction, where together they prepare
51
52
AMERICAN COOKERY
a simple meal, or spend the morning at
some particular line of cooking, as cake
making or cooky baking.
Saturday is the welcome day to half
a dozen mothers of a certain community.
Then they are assured of a day to them-
selves, while, for a reasonable recom-
pense, a young lady with a gift for un-
derstanding children entertains or in-
structs the little people of the several
families. This scheme has proven satis-
factory to the mothers, of pecuniary
profit to the Saturday Lady, and is
looked forward to by the children as
the greatest lark of the week. B. R.
* * *
Some Uses of Left-Overs
THE skill of the good cook is gauged
by her clever use of left-overs.
Almost anyone can take fresh supplies
and make an appetizing meal, but it
tests the ingenuity of a cook to use what
she has in a pleasing manner.
Have you ever tried Maryland Chow-
der? It is substantial and delicious,
and can be varied to meet what you
happen to have on hand.
Use equal parts of canned tomatoes
and corn. If quantities vary a little,
it will be all right. If the tomatoes and
corn were left over from yesterday's
dinner and seasoned, so much the better.
If too thick, add a cup of hot water.
A tablespoonful of minced onion or a
little chopped, boiled, cold onion added
to the chowder will give relish. Pare,
slice thin, and parboil three potatoes.
Add these to the chowder and simmer
until tender. Lastly, add a pinch of
soda, a cup of hot milk, a tablespoonful
of butter, and thicken with a tablespoon-
ful of cornstarch which has been rubbed
smooth in a little cold water. Serve
very hot with crisp sal tines.
It is perplexing sometimes to see only
about half enough meat for the next
meal, and to realize that something
should be done with it at once. Try
this:
Mince your meat fine. Prepare twice
as much boiled rice, one small minced
onion, and half a green pepper for each
pint of the mixture. Mix the meat,
rice, onion, and green pepper together.
For each pint, add one cup of canned
tomato. Season. If not quite moist
enough, add a little gravy or hot water,
and a tablespoonful of butter. Cover
with crumbs and bake.
When you have a bottle of milk sour,
do not lose the golden opportunity to
have some of the most delicious dough-
nuts you ever ate or a batch of par-
ticularly toothsome waffles. Here are
the rules :
Doughnuts
IJ cups sugar
2 eggs
J cup melted butter
IJ cups loppard milk
1 teaspoonful soda, rounded, dissolved
in a little of the sour milk.
Spice to taste, salt. Do not mix very
hard.
Waffles
2 cups sifted flour
2 cups sour milk
1 teaspoonful soda
J teaspoonful baking powder
IJ tablespoonfuls melted butter
1 tablespoonful sugar
1 egg — well beaten
Pinch of salt
Cook on well-greased waffle irons.
Do not use too much batter, in order
to have them crisp and brown.
When a hot day comes and you want
to make a quick dessert, prepare a mold
of coffee jelly. There will probably be
coffee enough left from breakfast, and
by lunch or dinner time, it -will be nicely
set. It is delicious served with whipped
cream, or, better yet, with a pint of
vanilla ice cream.
Coffee Jelly
Soak two level tablespoonfuls of plain
granulated gelatine in one cup of cold
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
53
water for ten or fifteen minutes. Add
three cups of clear, boiling hot coffee
and one cup of sugar, and stir until all
is dissolved. Turn into one large or
individual small molds. Set away to
harden. E.G.W.
A Handy Kitchen Convenience
Measure the end of your kitchen table
and procure one of the nickeled wall towel
racks as nearly this length as possible.
It may be a little shorter, but it cannot
be longer. The towel rack fastens on to
the end of the table on each circular
disc with a couple of screws. This
makes a handy place to hang towels
when one is at work. E. G. W.
Table Protection
THOSE wishing a neat, durable,
economical kitchen table cover
should take a piece of linoleum the size
of the table and fasten it on securely
with gilt tacks. Keep a couple of old
magazines on the table to set hot pans
of bread or pies on when removing them
from the oven, and as the outer leaves
get soiled tear them off. This will save
the linoleum and it will stay bright and
new for a long time.
Sheet Iron Stove Top
If you have an oil stove, get a tinsmith
to cut out a piece of sheet iron the size
of your stove and turn down the edges
on all sides an inch. Lay this iron on
the top of your stove. It will not only
keep the pans and kettles clean, but the
middle burner will keep the whole top
hot. Mrs. J. J. O'C.
* * *
"Sugar Bread and Tea" .
IF unexpected guests have permitted
the "roving spirit" to lead them to
your doorway and you are in a flurry of
excitement because there is "no cake in
the house, or anything out of which to
make sandwiches," try "Sugar Bread."
Sugar Bread is better than plain bread
and butter and it looks more delectable.
Cut slices of bread about one-fourth an
inch thick and remove all the crusts.
Cut the large slices into small squares
and toast — carefully. When the bread
is toasted, butter quickly and sprinkle
plentifully with sugar and cinnamon.
Return to the oven until the sugar and
cinnamon have melted into the buttered
toast and serve hot.
When you are cutting the lemon for
the tea be sure to remove all seeds as
they embitter the flavor of the beverage.
Place three or four cloves in each slice of
lemon, and always put the piece of
lemon into the cup before pouring the
tea. The hot liquid poured over the
lemon will bring out its flavor better
than by adding the slice of lemon after
the tea has been poured. F. F.
* * *
Grape-Fruit Salad
A GOOD-SIZED grape-fruit. One
head crisp endive, shredded very
fine. Take out pulp of grape-fruit,
catching and saving all the juice. Put
in the salad-bowl with the endive
(not forgetting the juice), dress with
2 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 teaspoonfuls of
sugar, a dash, each, of salt and pepper.
Toss and mix well, adding more salt if
necessary. Should the grape-fruit be
very sweet, add a scant teaspoonful of
lemon juice.
Duck: Roasted ''Game-Fashion"
When "tame" duck is ready to roast,
(with or without stuffing) lay over it
thin slices of fat salt pork. In the pan
around it put a sliced onion, a bay leaf,
and half a dozen stalks (not bunches!)
of celery, cut up. Add a cup of boiling
water. Baste well while roasting, adding
more boiling water if necessary. When
done, take the duck from the pan, skim
and slightly thicken the gravy before
straining. Taste before salting. The
pork often suffices. Duck so roasted can
54
AMERICAN COOKERY
hardly be told from game, and left-over
bits warmed in the gravy make a
delicious salmi, with or without olives.
Blanquette
Left-over pork or veal chops, that
have been accidentally over-done, or
that seem hopelessly dried when cold,
can be made into a most appetizing
dish, thus: Cut in small pieces, put in a
double boiler, cover with fresh milk and
allow to steep on the back of the stove
for a couple of hours. Five minutes
before serving time, make a cream sauce,
using a tablespoonful, each, of butter
and flour, and a cup of milk, and pour
over the meat. When it boils, season
with salt and pepper, add the pieces
of meat, and let come to boiling point.
Have ready yolks of two eggs, beaten
smoothly. Take the meat from the fire,
stir in the yolks, smoothly and quickly,
and serve at once in a hot dish. A. D.
Church Supper for 200
Menu
Chicken Pies
Peas
Rolls, Butter
Beet Relish
Coffee
Ice Cream, Candy
Materials with Cost
46 Chicken Pies (each serves six) $34.50
24 Cans Peas 4.56
400 Rolls 3>.ZZ
8 Lbs. Butter 2.64
5 Lbs. Coffee L50
Sugar. .79
2 Cans Milk 1.40
2 Quarts Cream 1.20
6 Eggs 21
Beet Relish 1.83
7 Gallons Ice Cream 14.00
4 Lbs. Candy 2.70
Help . 3.50
Laundry 2.42
* * *
Regarding Cottage Cheese
We are in receipt of several sug-
gestions in reference to the making of
cottage cheese. The milk left over from
the day's supply may be collected, day
to day, in a covered earthen jar and then
used, in cool weather, for cheese; but in
hot weather, the milk will not keep
in good condition very many days.
We have tried using boiling water
to separate the whey from the curd, and
have also eaten cheese, repeatedly,
made by others using boiling water,
and are convinced that such cheese can
not be compared to the cheese made
without use of boiling water. In
summer weather, milk that has been
drawn from the cow for 36 hours, left
in a covered receptacle on the kitchen
table overnight, will usually be thick
in the morning and in condition to
hang in a cheesecloth bag. By six
o'clock — at latest — it may be sea-
soned and shaped for serving. The curd
of such cheese is soft and soluble, while
too often that made by use of boiling
water is grainy and tough.
The following may interest the sub-
scriber whose query was answered
(partially) some time ago under No.
2593. This crumb -bread has been tried
in our kitchen and found to be most
excellent. For a small family, half the
recipe (making two small loaves) would
suffice. Editor.
Crumb Bread
A family who has toast daily for
breakfast and prefer the slices trimmed,
and also have crumbs (including crusts)
that are left in preparing sandwiches for
entertaining, often really have more
crumbs than can be used. The crumbs
are dried thoroughly, ground in the
food-chopper and made into bread that
is digestible.
4 cups hot water 2 tablespoonfuls
1 cup molasses shortening
2 teaspoonfuls salt j
When cool add one yeast cake, mixed
in one cup lukewarm water, 3 cups dried
bread crumbs, 2 cups graham flour, and
enough white flour to make a very stiff
dough. Let rise, work down, place at
once in tins'; let rise again and bake.
^ {queries
ANSWERS
THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Colunvbus Ave^ Boston, Mass.
Query No. 2694. — "Recipe for one gallon
of Grapejuice Sherbet?"
One Gallon Grapejuice Sherbet
2 1 quarts water
5 cups sugar
3 teaspoonfuls gelatine
5 cups grapejuice
11 cups lemon iuice
J cup cold water
Boil the water and sugar fifteen
minutes; add the gelatine softened in
the cold water and stir until dissolved,
then let cool; add the fruit juice and
freeze as usual.
Query No. 2695. — "Recipe for crisp French
Rolls such as are served in hotels?"
Regarding French Rolls
As bread and rolls in France are not
baked in private houses, not much
attention is given to the subject in
French books on cookery. In American
cook books various recipes are given
under the name of French Rolls. Often a
Vienna roll mixture made with milk and
eggs, is given for French rolls. French
bread contains no ingredients save flour.
yeast, water and salt and we are in-
clined to think that the ingredients for
French Rolls differ from those for bread
simply in the addition of a little
shortening.
Recipe for French Rolls
Mix one cake of compressed yeast and
half a cup of lukewarm water to a
smooth consistency, then stir in flour to
make a dough. Knead the dough until
smooth and elastic, shaping it into a
ball. Make two cuts with a knife across
the top, at right angles to each other, and
about one-fourth an inch deep. Set the
ball of dough, cut-side up, in a bowl
containing two cups of lukewarm water.
In a few minutes the dough will swell
and float on the water. In another
bowl sift five cups of flour and half a tea-
spoonful of salt; with the tips of the
fingers work two or three tablespoonfuls
of butter into the flour; add the ball of
sponge and the water on which it is
floating and mix to a soft dough, adding
flour as is needed. Mix the dough with
a knife and cut and work it until the
dough cleans the bowl. Knead the
dough until it is perfectly smooth and
elastic. Let stand, close-covered, until
light; shape into balls, cover with a
bowl until light, then shape into rolls
the length of a finger and rather narrow;
set these some little distance apart.
When again light bake about twenty-five
minutes. Brush over with the white of
an egg, beaten slightly and strained,
and return to the oven an instant to set
the glaze. Do not cover while cooling.
Query No. 2696
Sherbet?"
Recipe for Strawberry
Strawberry Sherbet
1 quart water
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoonful granulated
gelatine
2 cups strawberry
juice
1 lemon, juice only
3 tablespoonfuls cold
water
Boil the water and sugar rapidly
fifteen minutes; add the gelatine,
softened in the cold water, and let chill ;
55
56
AMERICAN COOKERY
add the strawberry and lemon juice and
let freeze, using three measures of ice to
one of salt. To secure the strawberry
juice, hull, and if necessary wash, the
berries; crush them with a pestle or
potato ricer, then strain through a cheese
cloth, pressing out all the juice possible
and retaining the seeds in the cloth.
If the seeds are not objectionable, the
pulp and juice need not be strained
after the berries have been pressed
through the ricer. Many seeds will
adhere to the ricer.
Query No. 2697. — "Kindly publish recipes
for Salads and Sandwiches given in a demon-
stration of cooking at Springfield, Mass.?"
Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad
Cook the prunes as usual but let the
liquid evaporate toward the last of the
cooking. Skim out the prunes and set
aside to become cold. With a sharp-
pointed knife cut the flesh from the
stones to make six or more lengthwise
slices. Cut pecan-nut meats into three
lengthwise pieces. Over half a pound
of prunes and one-fourth a pound of nut
meats, prepared as above, sprinkle half
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika.
Beat three-fourths a cup of double
cream, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each,
of salt and paprika, two tablespoonfuls
of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of
sherry wine, until firm throughout (a
third tablespoonful of lemon juice may
replace the sherry). Reserve a few
pieces of prunes and nuts for a garnish.
Mix the seasonings through the rest of
the prunes and nuts, then fold in about
two-thirds of the cream mixture. Turn
the mixture upon a bed of heart leaves
of lettuce; pipe the rest of the dressing
above and decorate it with bits of prune
and nut meats reserved for the purpose.
This salad may be served individually.
Great care should be taken to keep the
pieces of prune in good shape; the
prunes should be cooked only just
enough to allow of the removal of the
stones, not as much as when they are
to be served as sauce.
Potato Salad
For three cups of cubes of cold,
boiled potatoes, chop fine half a small
onion, four branches parsley, four olives,
four small gherkins or one tablespoonful
piccalilli, half a green or red pepper and
one tablespoonful capers. Add to
potatoes with five tablespoonfuls of
olive oil, a scant teaspoonful, each, of
salt and paprika and three tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar. Mix thoroughly. Set
aside to chill. Add more seasoning if
needed. Dispose in a mound on a
serving dish, mask with mayonnaise;
garnish with cooked beet, chopped fine,
chopped whites of eggs and sifted yolks.
Mayonnaise Dressing
Beat one egg-yolk, add one-fourth a
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika,
beat in two tablespoonfuls of vinegar;
beat in one teaspoonful of olive oil, then
gradually beat in two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar; beat in one teaspoonful of
olive oil, then gradually beat in one cup
of oil, adding it a teaspoonful at a time.
Use a Dover egg-beater. Finish with
one tablespoonful of boiling water.
Tango Salad
Peel, halve and core ripe juicy pears
and, if desired, cut the halves in thin
slices without cutting quite through;
rub them over with the cut side of a
lemon, or squeeze upon each piece a
few drops of lemon juice to keep them
from discoloring. Set a ball of cream
cheese, or a few cubes of Roquefort or
other cheese, in the cavity in the center
of the halves of pears; set these on
heart-leaves of lettuce, and pour a
lightly seasoned dressing over the whole.
Tango Dressing
(To Serve Six)
Prepare half a cup of mayonnaise
dressing in the usual manner. Beat one-
fourth a cup of olive oil, one teaspoonful
of vinegar, one-fourth a teaspoonful
each, of salt and mustard, half a tea-
ADVERTISEMENTS
Delicious Cherry Roly Poly
EVERY enthusiastic housewife seeks new seasonable surprises in cookery.
Serve a Crisco made cherry roly poly and you will have a dainty dessert
that is delicious and different. The dough is light and tender; the sauce fruity
and toothsome, and both afford convincing proof of the unusual delicacy of foods
prepared with Crisco.
(risco
^, For Frsnng -Fop Shortening
^^^ For Cake Making
Crisco is purely vegetable, never varies and has neither flavor nor odor.
It therefore enables countless thousands of women to give to their ovt^n
cooking that tastiness for which every good cook strives.
Cherry Roly Poly
The Biscuit Dough
2 cupfuls flour 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder H cupful Crisco
1 teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 cupful powdered sugar
The Sauce
2 egg yolks
1 scant cupful milk
(Use level measurements)
5 tablespoonfuls cherry iuice
2 egg whites
Sift flour, salt and baking powder. Add Crisco, cutting
it in with two knives until mealy. Then add milk gradu-
ally until a soft dough is formed.
Cream the Crisco. Add sugar gradually and cream well to-
gether. Add egg yolks and cherry juice, cook over hot
vater until well blended and hot
through; remove from fire and
fold in stiffly beaten whites.
Roll biscuit dough about 5^ inch in thickness, sprinkle with sugar and dot with ripe stoned
cherries or well drained stoned canned cherries. Roll like jelly roll, press and close the ends as
tight as possible. Tie in floured cloth and cook in boiling water two hours or steam in steamer
one and a half hours. Remove from cloth to hot platter and serve with sauce.
Many other recipes make "A Calendar of Dinners" a most valuable book to any housekeeper.
It contains 615 recipes, a dinner menu for every day in the year and the interesting Story of
Crisco. Write for this illustrated, cloth-bound, gold-stamped book. Address Dept. A-6,
The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, enclosing five two-cent stamps. A paper-
bound edition without the "Calendar of Dinners" but with 250 recipes is free.
ST^^W^
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
57
58
AMERICAN COOKERY
spoonful of paprika and one-fourth a
cup of chili sauce, until well blended,
then gradually beat into the mayonnaise
dressing. Sprinkle the salad and dress-
ing generously with julienne shreds of
pimientos. After opening the can of
pimientos, rinse them in cold water and
dry on a cloth.
Macedoine of Vegetables in
Tomato Jelly
I package granulated
gelatine
1 cup cold water
2 olives, chopped
1 hard-cooked egg
I cup peas or bits of
string beans
I cup cooked ham,
chopped
1 pint tomatoes
2 slices onion
1 stalk celery
1 sHce red or green
pepper
2 branches parsley
f teaspoonful salt
^ cup sliced celery,
cooked
Cook the tomatoes with the onion,
celery and pepper 15 minutes; press
through a sieve, add the salt and the
gelatine softened in the cold water, stir
until the gelatine is dissolved then let
cool in cold or ice water. When the
mixture begins to stiffen, add the
vegetables, the ham (this may be omitted
or chicken used), and the sifted yolk
and chopped white of the egg. When
the gelatine mixture will hold up the
macedoine, turn it into molds. When
firm, serve with lettuce and salad
dressing.
Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches
I pound sliced nut
meats
I pound butter
I pound grated cheese
I teaspoonful paprika
Cream the butter, beat in the cheese,
then the nut meats and paprika, and
use to spread on bread prepared for
sandwiches.
Ring-Shaped Sandwiches
Slices of bread cut with
doughnut cutter
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks
Thick cream to moisten
^ can sardines
1 tablespoonful
pimiento puree
Salt and paprika
Mix all the ingredients together and
spread on slices of bread cut with a
doughnut cutter. Heart-leaves of
lettuce may be used between the pre-
pared bread.
Query No. 2698. — "Recipe for Chili Con
Carne?"
Chili Con Carne
2 pods fresh or dried
chih peppers
2 pounds round steak
I cup pork fat or
drippings
1 clove garlic
Hot water as needed
1 teaspoonful salt
1 cup dried beans
4 tablespoonfuls flour
Soak the beans overnight, drain, wash
and let simmer in fresh water until
tender. Discard the seeds in the
peppers; if dried peppers are used, soak
them in warm water until soft; scrape
the pulp into the water and discard the
skin. Retain the pulp and water.
Cut the steak in small pieces and
cook them in the fat melted in the fry-
ing pan until browned all over; add the
flour to the fat left in the pan, and stir
until browned ; add the chili paste and
water, and stir until boiling. Cut two
gashes in the garlic and add it with the
meat to the other articles; cover and
let simmer until the meat is tender
(about two hours) adding hot water as
needed. When the meat is tender, the
sauce should be of good consistency.
Add the salt. Meanwhile the beans
should have become tender and the
water evaporated to a few spoonfuls.
Season with salt and pepper; add three
tablespoonfuls of butter and shake in
the saucepan to mix thoroughly. Turn
into the dish of meat or serve in a dish
apart.
Query No. 2699. — "
in April, Veal Cutlets
Monday, Roast Loin of
sing for dinner Tuesday,
dinner on Wednesday,
balanced be applied to
ideas of nutritive value
In the menus for a week
were given for dinner
Veal with Bread Dres-
and Veal Croquettes for
could the term well-
such menus having the
and variety in mind?"
Regarding Well Balanced Menus
The term well-balanced when referring
to food has to do with the proper
proportion of the five food principles;
the variety of food presented — - although
a very important matter — has no
special bearing on the subject. In the
menus referred to, veal was given three
days in succession, but plenty of protein
food of great variety was provided in
ADVERTISEMENTS
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
59
60
AMERICAN COOKERY
both the other meals of the day, and if
one were following the menus just as
they were written, a very small piece
of veal would suffice for the dinner, and
many of the family would feel no lack
of food, if no veal were eaten. At best,
menus written indiscriminately for a
large number of people can be but
suggestion, for the perfect menu is
written for just one individual and
takes into account age, occupation and
state of health as well as season of the
year. Veal is at its best in April and
May, and as menus are given for but
seven days in the month, the various
ways in which veal may be presented can
npt be noted unless it appears more
than once. Note that veal does not
appear - at two successive meals, also
that the menus for Wednesday and
Thursday may be interchanged.
Query No. 2700. — "Recipe for 'Butter
Cakes' as made in a line of restaurants through-
out the East and South? The Cakes are baked
on the top of the stove and are very light."
Butter Cakes
I teaspoonful soda
1 cup thick sour milk
2 tablespoonfuls
melted shortening
. I'cup sifted flour
I teaspoonful salt
I teaspoonful baking
powder
1 egg, beaten light
Sift together the dry ingredients ; add
the egg, sour milk and shortening, and
mix to the dough. Drop from a spoon
on a hot well-oiled griddle. When the
cakes are well-filled with bubbles, they
should be browned underneath and
ready to turn to brown the other side.
If the sour milk is not thick, less will be
required.
Butter Cakes
2 1 cups flour
1 teaspoonful salt
4 teaspoonfuls baking
powder
2 egg-whites, beaten
stiff
2 egg-yolks, beaten
light
2 cups sweet milk
3 tablespoonfuls
melted shortening
Sift the dry ingredients together;
stir in the yolks, shortening and milk,
and fold in the whites. Bake as above.
We are unable — except on rare
occasions — to supply recipes for pro-
prietary articles. Both the above rec-
ipes make good cakes similar to the
ones for which a recipe was desired.
For a plainer, less expensive article,
omit the eggs.
Query No. 2701. — "Menu for a June
Luncheon of four or five courses, in which spring
chickens are the dish in the principal course?"
June Luncheon
I
Individual Baskets of Choice Strawberries,
(unhulled, brushed clean; baskets on small doily
covered plates).
Cream of Green Pea Soup, Croutons
Olives Radishes
Panned Chickens
Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce
Lettuce, Cress-and-Green Peppers
French Dressing
Lady Finger Rolls
Pineapple Bavarian Cream, Pompadour Style
Lady Fingers Almond Macaroons
Coffee
II
Pineapple-and- Orange Cocktail
Salmon Croquettes, Green Peas
Cheese Tidbits Olives
Broiled Chickens, Currant Jelly
French Fried Potatoes
or
Creamed Potatoes
Norma Salad
Parker House Rolls
Strawberry Cup
(May 1916)
Croquins
Coffee
Panned Chicken
Cut young chickens in halves or
quarters according to size, wash and
dry carefully and roll in flour. Have
ready in a baking pan fat from fat salt
pork or vegetable oil, salted a little; set
the pieces of chicken on a rack in the
pan, let bake about three-quarters of
an hour, basting six or seven times with
the fat in the pan. Turn the pieces of
chicken to brown both sides evenly.
Query No. 2702.
Yeast Bread? "
'Recipe for a Dark- Colored
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It takes over two years of careful preparation
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A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither
was Holbrook's Sauce
It is better to use no
sauce at all than a sauce
that is not Holbrook's."
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every service. No longer any excuse
lor serving a heavy, indigestible
buttery ivhipped cream.
with the
with thin
p REMO- \/ ESCO
^-^ V — ^— used
"top" of a bottle of milk,
cream or with half heavy cream and
whole milk makes the delicious health-
ful whipped cream.
For the strawberry shortcake and all dainty liot
weather desserts and salads the up-to-date house-
keeper combines attractiveness, he^lthfulness
and economy in serving cream whipped with
Cremo Vesco.
A 25 cent bottle may be used for the average
size famil;- 50 times. If your grocer does not
carry it send 25 cents in stamps for a bottle to-
day. A 16 ounce bottle whips 75 quarts of thin
cream, $1.00 prepaid,
Cremo-Vesco Company
631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN. N. Y.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
61
62
AMERICAN COOKERY
Dark Colored Bread
1 cake compressed yeast
I cup lukewarm water
2 cups milk, scalded
and cooled
2 tablespoonfuls
shortening
I teaspoonful salt
Mix the yeast
1 cup molasses
2 cups whole wheat
flour
2 cups graham flour
1 cup bran
White flour to make a
dough
through the water ;
add to the milk in which the shortening
has been dissolved; add the salt,
molasses and various kinds of flour, and
mix to a dough ; knead until smooth and
elastic; cover and let become light.
Shape into two loaves. When again
light, bake one hour.
Query No. 2703. — "Recipe for Hot Butter
Scotch Sauce to be eaten on ice cream ?"
Hot Butter Scotch Sauce
1 cup sugar ^ cup butter
I cup glucose or corn ^ cup or more boiling
syrup water
^ cup boiling water
Stir and cook the sugar, corn syrup,
first I cup of boiling water and the
butter over the fire until of the desired
color ; add the second measure of boiling
water and stir and cook until melted and
of the proper consistency. The sauce
should stiffen slightly on the ice cream.
Query No. 2704.
Pimientos?"
"Recipe for Canning
Canned Pimientos
Cut around the stem of each pepper
and remove it and all the seeds; wash
the peppers, pour on boiling water to
cover and let boil two minutes; drain,
rinse in cold water and drain again, then
use to fill the sterilized jars. Set the jar
or jars on a cloth on the rack of a steam
cooker or other appliance; fill jar and
cooker with lukewarm water; adjust the
rubber and cover, but do not tighten
the cover; cover the cooker and let the
peppers cook ten minutes after the
boiling actually begins; test the peppers
with a fork; if tender, fill the jar to
overflow with boiling water, adjust the
cover, but do not tighten it completely;
let boil six minutes, tighten the cover
and remove from the heat.
Query No. 2705. — "Give explicit directions
for making German Coffee Cake with magic
yeast or yeast foam. We Hve 16 miles from a
town and cannot get compressed yeast."
German Coffee Cake
At noon crumble one cake of magic
yeast or yeast foam into one-fourth a
cup of lukewarm water; when softened,
mix and add to one cup of scalded-and-
cooled milk, then stir in bread flour to
make a thick batter; beat thoroughly,
cover and let stand in a bread bowl
until very light and full of bubbles;
add one-fourth a cup of melted shorten-
ing, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-
fourth a cup of sugar, one egg beaten
light, and flour for a soft dough, about
three cups and a half. Cut through and
through the dough with a knife, cover
and let stand to become light. When
doubled in bulk turn into pan 11x8
and when again doubled in bulk spread
with melted butter and flour and sugar
mixture; bake half an hour.
Query No. 2706. — "Give Substitutes for
Fresh Meat and Vegetables in summer diet
of child two years old; temperature from 100° to
115° F. and no ice available."
Substitutes for Fresh Meat and
Vegetables — Child's Diet
When chicken, beef or lamb are
available, prepare broth and store it in
small fruit jars in the same manner as
canned fruit is stored, i.e., seal when
at the boiling point in sterilized jars.
Serve with this carefully cooked maca-
roni or spaghetti, or potatoes baked in a
very hot oven. Use canned spinach or
peas in purees; a puree of mild onions
(Bermuda or similar variety) is allowable
for a child of 30 months, and might be
tried with a younger child; if no in-
digestion occurs, repeat the dish, but
always in small quantity. The pulp
of stewed prunes or the juice of berries
should be given either at breakfast or
dinner. Grape juice may be given
in any quantity desired by the child.
Bananas are wholesome if cooked
(baked) thoroughly. Fruit juice may
ADVERTISEMENTS
^^
%
4
- .^
The delicate orchids which
yield the vanilla bean are
sometimes destroyed by
tropical hurricanes — as
ivas the 1915 crop — and
sometimes injured by other
causes. Only second grade
beans are produced during
such years. As none but
the first grade is used in
Burnett''s Vanilla, a reserve
stock is kept to assitre its
uniform high quality.
Syrian Parfait
Scald 1 pint cream and let it
stand 1/2 hour, on Vi lb. fresh
ground coffee. Cream yolks of
6 eggs with V4 lb. sugar. Beat
well, add coffee mixture and stir
to creaminess over boiling w ater.
Strain, add V2 pint cream and 2
teaspoonfuls Burnett's Vanilla.
Beat over ice and freeze.
r"
What you should
get in your
Vanilla
You should get that rare and
wonderful flavor which Nature
puts into just one kind of vanilla
bean— that grown in the moun-
tain valleys of Mexico. All the
efforts of science to cultivate
vanilla elsewhere have failed to
produce the equal of the bean
grown in that favored spot,
and cured by the slow native
process. No maker of cheap
extracts can afford to use these
beans, even though enough of
them were to be had. This
rare crop is small and over one-
half of its choicest is used in
-.i^
nnm
For desserts, in which flavor is all important, it is surely
shortsighted to use anything but the best flavoring. The
exquisite delicacy and concentrated goodness of Burnett's
Vanilla have made it the standard among discriminating
cooks for three generations.
DESSERT BOOK— FREE
Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy of "115
Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful.
Joseph Burnett Company
36 India St., Boston, Mass.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substittites
63
64
AMERICAN COOKERY
be used with gelatine in making jelly
for dessert. One tablespoonful of gela-
tine with one cup and a half of fruit
juice, one-fourth a cup of sugar and one-
fourth a cup of water. Use the water
to soften the gelatine; dissolve over the
tea kettle, add the sugar and fruit juice.
Without ice prepare at supper time and
set aside in as cool a place as possible
until the next day. Tapioca may be
cooked in fruit juice, one-fourth a cup
in a pint of juice; the addition of one or
two eggs, beaten very light, makes the
dish more nutritious and adds to the
protein value, which is essential in a
diet deficient in meat, fish or vegetables,
Query No. 2707. — "Recipes for Simple
Desserts in which condensed milk may be used?"
Rebecca Pudding
1 cup condensed milk
1 cup boiling water
i cup cornstarch
J cup cold water
2 egg whites
I teaspoonful salt
1 cup condensed milk
1 cup boiling water
2 egg yolks
Custard Sauce
2 tablespoonf uls sugar
I teaspoonful salt
I teaspoonful vanilla
extract
Heat the milk and water in a double
boiler, stir the cornstarch and cold water
until smooth, then stir and cook in the
hot liquid until thickened slightl}^;
cover and let cook ten minutes, stirring
. occasionally. Beat the egg-whites and
salt very light, then fold into the cooked
mixture. Have ready small molds or
cups, buttered and dredged with sugar;
turn in the mixture, and let cook in the
oven on folds of paper and surrounded
with boiling water until firm and well
puffed. Serve hot, with cold custard.
For the custard, scald the milk and
water; beat the egg-yolks, add the
sugar and salt and beat again; pour on
a little of the hot liquid, mix and stir
into the rest of the hot liquid, and
continue to stir and cook until the mix-
ture thickens a little, then strain into a
cold dish. Add the vanilla before using.
Variations of Rebecca Pudding
Half a cup of chopped almonds,
grated cocoanut, fine-chopped figs or
dates or one or two ounces of melted
chocolate may be added before the egg-
whites are folded into the pudding
mixture. The sauce may be used as a
sauce for boiled rice or it may be poured
while hot over slices of stale sponge cake.
When cold decorate with bits of fruit
jelly.
Cornstarch Blancmange
1 cup boiling water
^ teaspoonful salt
1 cup condensed milk
I cup cornstarch
I cup cold water
Stir the cornstarch and salt with the
cold water and cook in the hot milk and
water (double boiler) stirring constantly
until the mixture thickens and, oc-
casionally, thereafter, twenty minutes.
Turn into cups rinsed in cold water;
serve cold, unmolded, with custard
sauce.
Sea Moss Farine Blancmange
I tablespoonful (level)
Sea Moss Farine
1 tablespoonful sugar
1 cup condensed milk
1 cup cold water
Thin rind | lemon or
orange |
Set the milk, water and fruit rind over
the fire in a double boiler; sift together
the Sea Moss Farine and sugar, then
stir into the cold liquid and continue
to stir while the liquid is beating; when
the mixture is hot, stir occasionally while
cooking twenty minutes. Strain into
molds and let chill and harden. Serve
unmolded with custard or with canned
or fresh sugared fruit.
(Continued on page 72)
■The Daily Use in the Home of —
Platts Chlorides .
TheOdorlessDisiiMfectant.
Is not a Luxury but
a Necessity
It Protects Health and
Prevents Sickness
Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Everywhere
ADVERTISEMENTS
veryone
Tulips
and
Tit-Bits
A May-Morning
Greeting
Any woman who will can make the
May breakfast the most charming half-
hour of the day.
One flower will aid it, if you can't
have a bouquet. A single tulip is very
artistic.
Then have bubble-grains with it —
Puffed Wheat or Puffed Rice. They
seem like breakfast bonbons.
Will Smile
Good cheer is the main thing at breakfast. And it
isn't universal, you know. It is up to you housewives to
start the day with a smile.
One can't frown at flowers. And these flaky, crisp
bubbles are the daintiest dainty that ever met folks at
breakfast. Have them both on your May-morning tables.
Then remember that these flavory morsels are the ut-
most in whole-grain foods. Every food cell is exploded.
Every atom feeds. It doesn't take many Puffed Grains to
form a hearty breakfast.
Foods so fascinating and so scientific ought to have a big place in your home. No other
wheat or rice foods compare with them. Prof. Anderson's process is the only way that fits every
granule for food.
A whole-grain food, to be a complete food, must be made wholly digestible,
niust be broken. And each grain contains more than 100 million of them.
In Prof. Anderson's process,
these cells are steam-exploded.
Not a cell remains intact.
Each food cell
Wheat, rice and corn are the
only grains we puff. Those
grains should be served in this
way. Not for breakfast only,
but in bowls of milk. They are
double-value foods.
Puffed Wheat
Puffed Rice
Corn Puffs — Bubbles of Com Hearts — 1 5c
Except
in
Far
West
12c
15c
THE QUAKER OATS COMPANY
SOLE MAKERS
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
65
The Silver Lining
Love and Flowers
She was a maiden with glorious eyes,
And he was a gallant commander.
They walked through a garden of flowers and
grass;
Said he, "What's yourfavorite flower, dear lass?"
Said she, with a sigh, "Oleander."
His name was Leander — his heart gave a jump ;
With rapturous ardor he fanned her.
Said he, "I'm in very great need of a wife.
Sweet maid, will you be my own blossom for
life?"
Said she, with a blush, "O Leander!"
Harriet Whitney Symonds.
A Touch of Humor
"Always," says the astute news editor
to the new reporter— "always be on
the look out for any little touch of
ai iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii luniiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiii III! m il*
Pn^C"^
Hose
Supporter
for Women, Misses and Children,
including the Baby.
The OBLONG Rubber Button Clasp
is a sure protection for the stocking
Holds Without Holes!
Ask at your Store or send 15c for Chil-
= dren's Pin-ons (give age) or 50c for
Women's and Misses* Sew-ons (four).
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON
'illllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIlinTi"
humor that may brighten up the
columns."
That evening the new reporter handed
in an account of a burglary in a butcher's
shop, which commenced: "Mr. Cleaver,
the well-known butcher, has been losing
flesh rapidly of late."
Prayer Divided by the Red Sea
Immediately following the close of the
Civil War, J. G. Butler, then a young
man living in Youngstown, Ohio, and
destined to become notable as a steel
magnate, left home to go South on a
visit to his brother, who had been a
Union soldier and who, after the close
of hostilities, had settled among the
mountains, in a remote section of East
Tennessee.
Part of the journey, as the Saturday
Evening Post tells the story, was made
upon horseback. One night the traveler
secured accommodations at the only
dwelling in sight — the log cabin of an
old negro.
"When bedtime came," said Mr.
Butler, "the old darky asked me to join
in the family prayers. So I knelt down
with the members of his household upon
the hard puncheon floor, and he closed
his eyes and threw his head back and
opened his mouth and began.
"He began with Genesis and worked
gradually downward. When he had
prayed for twenty minutes without a
pause, and my knees were hurting me
like the toothache, I got desperate.
I nudged the person nearest to me — a
twelve-year-old boy, who had his head
on a chair seat and was peacefully
dozing through the ordeal.
" *Whut is it. Boss?' whispered the
pickaninny, waking with a start.
" 'How long is this prayer goin' to
last?' I whispered back.
" 'Has Daddy done tuck de Chillen of
Israel 'crost de Red Sea yit?' he asked
me under his breath, "
66
ADVERTISEMENTS
The nQwest thing
for the kitchen
<- "^^Er
(^
Trade Mark Reg.
Bakind U^re
Baking in Pyrex dishes is more efficient and uniform than the old
way. It is quicker and in the highest degree sanitary and attrac-
tive. Food is not burned. Its best flavor is retained. Delay is
avoided, fuel saved, better results insured.
Pyrex is literally a nev^ material come into the vv^orld. Trans-
parent and durable it w^ithstands the heat of the hottest oven. It
does not chip, craze nor flake, and is the only practical glass for
oven use.
Pyrex dishes make handsome serving-dishes, with or without
silver mountings.
Pyrex glass dishes are made in a large variety of shapes and sizes ranging
from Ramekins at 12J^c. to Casseroles at $2.00. On sale by leading
china and department stores and specialty shops everywhere — Lewis &
Conger, Gimbel Bros., N.Y.; Marshall Field & Co., Chicago; Jordan Marsh
Co., Graham & Streeter, Boston; Wright, Tyndale & Van Roden, Straw-
bridge & Clothier, Philadelphia, etc.
CORNING GLASS WORKS Established ises CORNING, N.Y., u.s.a.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
67
AMERICAN COOKERY
IT'wS poor economy to save a fraction of a
cent on a jar ring and have a jar of deli-
cious fruit ferment and be wasted. Cheap
rings harden, shrink, crack and let in air.
This makes the fruit "work" and spoil. Good
Luck rings are thick, strong and elastic, be-
cause there is plenty of "live" rubber in them.
This makes a tough, resilient cushion between
the cap and the jar, so that dust and germs
cannot enter.
If your dealer cannot supply you
send lO cents for one dozen rin^s
Our booklet. Good Luck in Preserving," tells
why preserves spoil and how to prevent it. It
also contains 33 "distinctly different" preserv-
ing recipes, all practical and delicious, and an
assortment of gummed and printed jar labels.
Send 2-cent stamp for it to day
BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO.
Makers of GOOD LUCK GARDEN HOSE
Dept. No. 3 Cambridge, Mass.
" 'Not yet,' I said.
'* 'Well, den, w'en he git to de Red
Sea he's jest half done.' "
Her Daily Reminder
In "Tom Daly's Column" of the
Philadelphia Ledger we read :
"I wrote this," says H. H. H., "had
it typewritten, framed and hung it in
various places about the house. Now,
whenever I do anything wrong I turn
to the nearest one, and somehow when
the storm breaks it's always a mild,
gentle little storm, that passes away
almost before it is begun :
I am, indeed, a very beautiful woman.
My face shows, too, that I am
intellectual, learned and refined.
My figure is perfect; it is of beautiful
curves, yet it is motherly, and neither
am I too slender. My carriage is the
acme of grace and dignity.
My voice is soft and sweet, yet power-
ful when I will. It thrills the multitude,
yet soothes my child to sleep.
My mind is such that it communes
with savants, yet it responds to the
whisperings of my child.
My disposition is sweet and loving;
my manner charming.
I am tactful, I am witty, I am bril-
liant.
I am a perfect wife.
I am a perfect mother.
I am a perfect woman.
My only weakness, is my husband, the
poor shrimp !
Henrietta Hermione Hopkins.'''
Sir Henry Hawkins was once pre-
siding over a long, tedious, and uninter-
esting trial, and was listening apparently
with great attention to a very long-
winded speech from a learned counsel.
After a while he made a pencil memo-
randum, folded it, and sent it by the
usher to the queen's counsel in question,
who, unfolding the paper, found these
words: "Patience competition. Gold
medal, Sir Henry Hawkins. Honorable
mention, Job." — Argument.
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
68
ADVERTISEMENTS
r
A perfect food — a sustaining food —
a most nutritious food made from
flour. Five cents.
No wonder these biscuit
are fresh and good! The
National Biscuit Company
insists that every biscuit be
the best possible. Flour,
butter, eggs, fruit and other
materials are specially se-
lected. Preparation and
baking are done with utmost
skill amid absolute cleanli-
ness.
,^^^;
Biscuit
At
Their Best
Snappy and spicy. The grocer
man sells them to grown-ups
and growing- ups. Five cents.
The National Biscuit Com-
pany bakes many kinds of bis-
cuit for you — sweetened and
unsweetened. You can get
them from the nearby grocery
store, which is constantly sup-
plied by our Coast-to-Coast
distribution.
Five
and ten cents.
NATIONAL
BISCUIT
COMPANY
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
69
AMERICAN COOKERY
FOR
BISCUIT CAKE p^"* PASTRY
This Pastry Floar is very economical for qnick biscuit,
cake, pie-crast, short-cake, etc. Quality always nniform
December 2. 1915.,
My daughter, being in the dramatic profession, is often obliged
to travel, necessitating light housekeeping. At present, we are
located in Boston.
Recently^ when playing in Portland, Me., I bought at a local
store, some "White Puff" Flour. It was delicious, and 1 found it a
great saving, because 1 only had to use half the shortening that 1 had
used with other flours.
Now, really 1 want some more of this " White Puff" Flour at
soon as possible, and will appreciate it very much if you notify me
where I can buy it in Brookline.
I^ don't see how any good cook can get along without "White
Puff". We certainly can't.
Yours truly,
1 1 Devotion St., MRS. F. H. CUSHMAN.
Brookline, Mass.
GET IT OF YOUR GROCER. IF HE DOES NOT
KEEP IT, WE WILL SUPPLY YOU DIRECT
WILLIAM S. HILLS CO., Boston
An Ounce or
Pound?
a
The world has long since concluded
that "an ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure." Those who ren-
der a real service to humanity — are
those who conserve health.
Pure, wholesome food is a well-known pre-
ventive of ill-health; and for twenty-five
years Calumet Baking Powder has excelled
as a preparer of good food.
People who have investigated the action,
properties and residue of various leavening
agents, recommend "CALUMET." The
ingredients used have been approved by the
Remsen Board, appointed by the United
States Government and composed of men
whose ability is acknowledged.
A copy of the U. S. BuUehn. No. 103. con-
taining the findings of the Remsen Board, will
be sent upon request.
CALUMET BAKING POWDER CO.. Chicago, lU.
CALUMET
BAKING POWDER
Motor Economy
Economy was the text of Mr. Jones'
discourse one evening after he had been
settling some household bills, while
Mrs. Jones listened with true wifely
interest. The Sunday Fiction Magazine
proceeds :
"I don't want to make you unhappy,
darling," finished the husband, "but
really we must be a bit more careful in
future. For instance, look at the bill for
petrol. That motorcar is costing us
rather too much for the time being."
"Yes, Henry, dear," agreed Mrs.
Jones. "I'm afraid it is."
Then her sweet young face brightened
as she went on :
"But just think what it saves us in
carfares and boot leather!"
Mark Twain called on Grant by
permission; but when he looked into the
square, smileless face of the soldier, he
found himself for the first time in his
life without anything particular to say.
Grant nodded slightly and waited. His
caller wished something would happen.
"General," he said, "I seem to be slightly
embarrassed. Are you?" Grant's sever-
ity broke up in laughter. There were
no further difficulties.
A bashful young Scot had no courage
to speak for himself. At last, one
Sabbath night he said, "Jane, do you ken
I were here Monday night?" "Aye."
"And I were here Wednesday and
Thursday?" "Aye." "And once more
on Friday and again last night?" "So
you were." "And here I am tonight."
"Yes." Finally, in desperation,
"Woman, do you no smell a rat?"
— Rural New Yorker.
A colored woman beat Mrs. Twickem-
bury in this: She was telling her quali-
fications as a lady's maid, and said she
had kept house. "Then I suppose you
can cook, too?" "Indeed I can, yes'm;
and if you'll try my cooking, you'll find
it palatial."
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
70
ADVERTISEMENTS
fe Answer to the
Milk Question
MILK is one of the most important
foods you buy. There is every rea-
son why you should get milk that is sure
to be safe.
You cannot afford to take risfes,— and there
is no reason why you should.
CARNATION MILK solves the whole
problem for you. It puts an end to
your doubts.
It protects you from all the dangers which
lurk in milk that is not handled properly.
Remem.ber that Carnation Milk is not "doc-
tored" in any way. It is just the pure milk
as Nature provides, with nothing put in to
sweeten or to preserve it.
♦ ♦ ♦
ALL MILK, as you know, contains a
large percentage of water. Part of
the water is evaporated from the clean,
sweet, pure fresh milk which is thus re-
duced to the consistency of cream. Noth-
ing else is taken out— nothing whatever is
added.
After the rich, clean Carnation Milk is put
into the cans and sealed airtight it is steril-
ized, and you get it in that condition-
clean, sweet, pure and absolutely safe.
Isn't it worth while to be sure about the
milk you buy?
Isn't it important to you to know that the
milk you serve on your table, the milk you
give your children to drink, is free from
anything that may be dangerous or harmful?
PERHAPS you have supposed Carna-
tion Milk was to be used only for a
few special purposes. If so, you have been
mistaken.
Carnation Milk — properly diluted — is to be
used just as you use any other milk — for
the table, for cooking and for baking.
Put it in your coffee and enjoy the splendid
flavor it imparts; pour it diluted or undi-
luted, over fruits, berries and cereals, make
ice cream and candy with it.
♦ ♦ ♦
CARNATION MILK whips— that fact
is a forceful evidence of its high quality.
Get rid of the milk problem forever by us-
ing Carnation Milk. It is always handy
when you want it, because you can keep a
supply in the house and be sure that it
isn't going to spoil.
You will find that it supplies every milk
need of your home. Add pure water to it
and you "bring it back" to the original milk
—with the betterment of purity and safety.
Just, try it. Find out for yourself how good
Carnation Milk is, and how simply it solves
the milk and cream problem.
♦ ♦ ♦
ASK your grocer today to send you a
. supply of Carnation Milk. He can
furnish it by the can or by the case — daily
or weekly — as you wish.
Write us for our handsomely illustrated book of
special recipes for using Carnation Milk in
everyday dishes, fancy desserts, etc.
CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS
COMPANY
658 STUART BUILDING, SEATTLE, U. S. A,
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
71
AMERICAN COOKERY
Cherries
Cherry Sponge — a most
pleasing Knox Gelatine
dish. Fresh or canned
cherries.
Raspberries
Raspberry Mousse — a
delightful chilled des-
sert for warm days and
other days, too.
Pineapple
Pineapple Sponge —
Pineapple Snow Balls
—Pineapple Mousse-
are suggestions, fresh
or canned fruit.
Strawberries
Strawberry Bavarian
Cream, Strawberry Ice,
Strawberry Coupe' —
are a few Knox Gela-
tine recipes for Straw-
berries.
Blackberries
Lemon Jelly with Ber-
ries — easy to prepare —
yet dainty and different.
Bananas
A delightful recipe is
Banana Sponge, gar-
nished with banana
slices.
Recipes for above are found in our new book.
KNOX STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM
1-2 envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine.
1 tablespoonful lemon juice.
1-4 cup cold water. 1-2 cup sugar.
1 cup strawberry juice and pulp.
1 1-2 cups heavy cream, beaten until stiff.
Soak Gelatine in cold water five minutes, and dissolve
by standing: cup containing mixture in hot water. Strain
into strawberry juice mixed with lemon juice. Add
sugar, and when sugar is dissolved, set bowl containing
mixture in pan of ice water and stir until mixture begins
to thicken; then fold in cream. Turn into wet mold lined
with strawberries cut in halves, and chill. Garnish
with fruit, selected strawberries, and leaves. A deli-
Clous cream may also be made with canned strawberries.
YOU can serve the season's
fruits and berries in many
different and delightful ways
if you use
^^^ SPARKLING ^^^ ■
{Qranulated)
The suggestions above give you
an idea of the possibilities. Canned
fruits, too, are used with splendid
results. New Recipe Book
containing many recipes for Desserts, Pud-
dings, Jellies, Salads, Candies, etc., will
be sent
FREE for your grocer's name. Enclose
2c stamp for pint sample, if desired.
CHAS. B. KNOX CO., Inc.
407 Knox Ave Johnstown. N. Y.
Yellow Package
Queries and Answers
(Continued from page 62)
Query No. 2708. —"An Icing for Angel Food
Cake?"
Icing for Angel Food Cake
Melt one-fourth a cup of granulated
sugar in half a cup of boiling water, let
boil three minutes, then stir in sifted
confectioners' sugar to make a frosting
that will remain in place on the cake.
Query No. 2709. — "Recipe for Bean Salad."
Lima Bean Salad
Over a pint of cold, cooked Lima beans
pour three or four tablespoonfuls of
olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of cider
vinegar, one teaspoonful of grated onion
pulp, half a teaspoonful of salt and half
a teaspoonful of paprika. Toss and mix;
dispose on a serving dish, and surround
with a "pin-money mango" chopped
fine. Serve at once or let stand in a
cool place for some time before serving.
Lima-and-Black Bean Salad
Let one cup each of Lima and black
beans soak over night, separately, in
cold water; drain, wash in cold water,
drain and set to cook in cold water.
After boiling begins, replenish with
boiling water as needed and let cook
until tender. Season with salt when
about three-fourths cooked. When cold,
season, separately, with oil, vinegar,
onion juice, paprika, chopped parsley
and about one-fourth a teaspoonful of
mustard or curry powder. Let stand
until well seasoned. Serve in a bowl
lined with lettuce-hearts. Dispose the
dark beans in the center and the light
ones around the edge.
String-Bean Salad
Select small, green string beans; leave
whole or cut in pieces according to size;
dry on a cloth; for a pint mix half a
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of paprika, five tablespoonfuls
of oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
and half a teaspoonful of onion juice;
add to the beans and mix thoroughly.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
72
ADVERTISEMENTS
jtieWorlds Besf
Jce Cream^eezer
Sav^s TTme-CJork-CJorrf^
Ice Cream versus Thudding and ^ie
BY ACTUAL TEST
Two apple pies made ready to put into the oven in
(to say nothing of the baking) . Two quarts of delicious ice
and packed ready to serve in
twenty-one minutes and no
hot fire to fuss over. That's
why we say : ''Icecream made
the right way with a White
Mountain Freezer is easier to
make than a pudding or pie/'
We have proved it: — so can
you. If you don't know the
right way ask your dealer
for our folder or write to us
direct.
THE WHITE MOUNTAIN FREEZER CO.
NASHUA, NEW HAMPSHIRE
thirty-five minutes
cream mixed, frozen
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
73
AMERICAN COOKERY
|PURE, WHOLESOME and DEPENDAOLEifV
Vg HO-MAYDE prevents failures on Bake Day;
_ ^ it makes the spong-e rise sooner, and so shortens :
1 1^ the time of bread making.
The same quantity of flour will give a larger,
better and sweeter loaf, which will not dry out so
quickly.
Ask your grocer, today, for a IS cent package,
sufficient for 100 loaves of bread. If he does not
have it, send us his name and we will send you a
generous sample FREE. Address Dept. C
HO-MAYDE PRODUCTS CO.
TORONTO. CAN. DETROIT. MiCH.
i2
ON Even
4 ^^.a^^i^*^^^-^
(jjystal flower ^olfSer
for any length cut flowers used in lily bowl or dish containing water
Uelivered East of Delivered West of Missouri River
Missouri Kiver JFlorida, Maine and Canada
^ S 0.60— No. fl — in dia. 7 holes— $ 0.70
0.90 — No. 10—5" dia. 19 holes— 1.00
1.25— No. 11— fin dia. 19 holes— l.fiO
Ai H. HEISEY & CO. Dept. 56 Newark, Ohio
WRITE FOR ILLUSTRATED BOOKLET
iHEIBEY'Bi
lELASSWAREl
^^^^.•■cV ^X^X^^
FOR THE TABLE
POMPEIAN
OLIVE aiL
^LAD DRESSING
"**^ A MAYONNAISE OF
SURPASSING DELICIDUSNESS
lymnirnnir'
Rub over a salad bowl with a clove of
garlic cut in half; in the bowl dispose
the beans with an edge or border of
carefully washed-and-dried heart-leaves
of lettuce.
Query No. 2710. — "Recipe for small Sweet
Pickles, put up a can at a time?"
One Can Sweet Pickled Cucumbers
Select small cucumbers; scrub and
wash, sprinkle with salt and cover with
cold water. Use half a cup of salt to
two quarts of water. The next morning,
drain, rinse in cold water, drain again
and pack in a fruit jar; pour in vinegar
to cover the cucumbers; prepare more
cucumbers, day by day. When the jar
is filled, drain off the vinegar, and add
to the cucumbers green or red peppers,
whole cloves, white mustard seed, ginger
root, a few bits of mace or a piece of
bay leaf. Scald three cups of vinegar
and one-fourth a cup or more of sugar;
pour over the cucumbers filling the jar
to overflow; adjust the rubber and cover
and set aside.
Query No. 2711. — "Recipe for Tomato Cat-
sup that will not mold?"
Old-time Tomato Catsup
Slice a peck of ripe tomatoes and two
dozen onions. Let them boil one hour.
Then press through a sieve. Add one
quart of vinegar, one pint of port wine,
one tablespoonful of ground cloves,
one tablespoonful of allspice, half an
ounce of mace, four nutmegs, grated,
one tablespoonful and a half of pepper,
one scant teaspoonful of cayenne, and
half a cup of salt. Scald over the fire and
store in fruit jars or in bottles, covering
the corks with sealing wax.
The spices and wine aid in keeping the
catsup, still it is best to store the catsup
in small cans or bottles that no more may
be exposed to the air than will be used
in a short time. We see no reason why
spice extracts should be better than the
ground spices.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
74
ADVERTISEMENTS
^^ypo*s corripSirvp
unlQss number three is
Always welcomed by any company
for its brightness and charm. Delicious
and refreshing.
Demand the genuine by full name — nicknames encourage substitution.
The Coca-Cola Co. Atlanta. Ga.
Send for Free Booklet — "The Romance of Coca-Cola".
^3^ -^f-
^^m
J^^l
. ^
..v \isiTzrsvN Vs
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
75
AMERICAN COOKERY
New low Prices
On Refrigerators
White Enameled — Steel Lined
Wonderful value at a low price, due to Montgomery Ward's
enormous purchasing capacity.
Fine hardwood case — round corners —golden oak finish.
Chamber lined with white enameled steel. Perfect insulation
insuring ice saving. Easy to clean, as shelves, drain pipe and
trap all are removable. Would cost $12 if bought in ordinary
way. Send for regular Refrigerator circular and save vour
money.
Address House Most Convenient
rC
MY DEAR MARY:
At last I have time to write you and time for
lots of other things. I'll tell you why ! I just
bought a kitchen catmet — a seamless steel one,
white enameled, called the "McClernan." It's just
too beautiful for words. Jack and I sent for cata-
lo|,s of all kinds and inspected every make in the
stores and finally decided on this one as the most
complete, most sanitary and the best looking. It's a
kitchen in a nutshell — a place for everything; and
so easily kept clean. I can do twice the work m
half the time. Now I really have leisure. I don't
know how I ever ^ot alon^ without it. Be sure to
see it at your dealers.
Yours happily.
Write for Folder LOUISE
McCleman Metal Products Co.
Dept. G , 122 S. 'Michi&an Ave.
CHICAGO, ILL.
SANITAPV
lUERNAl
June
Roses bloom along the highway,
Ferns are green in every by-way,
Birds on wood-land boughs are singing,
Winds their balm of health are bringing,
Stars are bright with sudden glory.
Dingles tell their mirthful story,
And the Summer at her fairest
Gives us June- time days the rarest.
Every wave is music weighted,
Every vista beauty freighted,
Forest paths are aisles entrancing
Filled with fairy forms advancing.
And the doubter learns believing,
And the sad forgets his grieving.
When the Summer at her fairest
Gives us June- time days the rarest.
L. M. Thornton.
Two ladies — each with her child —
visited the Chicago Art Museum. As
they passed the "Winged Victory" the
little boy exclaimed, "Huh! She ain't
got no head." "Sh!" the horrified little
girl replied. "That's Art—^he don't
need none!" — Harper' s Magazine .
Recommends Ho-Mayde
Leaf River, 111., Jan. 7, 1916
Dear Sirs: —
I received a package of your Ho-
Mayde Bread Improver and think it's
O. K. I would like to act as agent
in this vicinity for you. Other women
here have used their samples and
think Ho-Mayde is fine.
Box 167. Mrs. E. H.
• Handy for a Fireless Cooker
Did you know that an ICY HOT Jar
can be used for a fireless cooker ? It is so.
Vegetables, beans, stews and other foods
that can conveniently enter the neck
of the bottle or jar can be heated in
the cooking water or sauce till steaming
hot and then placed in the ICY HOT,
which will do the rest, if you do not
open it too soon. As the heat cannot
escape, the food goes on cooking and,
if the bottle is not opened for a number
of hours, this fireless cooker will be
found to have done its work perfectly.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
76
ADVERTISEMENTS
Food Experts ''O.K," Sea Moss Farine
Mrs. Janet M. Hill, Editor American Cookery, Boston :—
There are many delicate desserts possible with Sea Moss
Farine. At my Summer School we prepared several
dishes, Blanc Mange especially, which were received
enthusiastically.
Mrs. Frances S. Bolton, Pres. Mothers Club, New Haven,
Conn -—For ten years or more I have used Sea Moss
Farine. All my familv like it and we have it frequently.
I believe it is pure and nutritious, especially for grow-
ing children.
Jennie Goessling Hammitt, Home Economic SpeciaHst,
Wilmington, Del. :.-Am much pleased with your .Sea
Moss Farine. It makes delicious dessert and I shall
use in my cookery class work at the Settlement.
Dr. C. H. Goudiss, Lecturer, Food Expert and Editor
Forecast 'Magazine, replies to inquirers :-. Sea Moss
Farine is a vegetable preparation, high m food value,
containing starches, proteins and mineral salts to about
75 per cent, of its bulk. A clean, wholesome product,
made from unquestionable raw materials and prepared
in a sanitary plant. Contains nothing harmful and is
not artificially preserved or colored.
Sea Moss Farine ''"'"'''"*
and Cold Beverages,
Economical,
It is stric5lly a Vegetable Pure Food Product of Nature, made of genuine Sea Moss,
evaporated and concentrated and toned down with a cereal blending. Sirnple
directions with each package for niaking delicious Blanc Mange, Ice Cream, Hot
Puddings, and other desserts. Invaluable for Invalids,
Children, Aged and others of feeble digestion.
A 25c. package yields 16 quarts Desserts.
Sold by best Grocers or mailed by us. Postpaid.
Send for Free Sample and Mme. Lemcke's book,
" 75 Tempting Dishes. '*
LYON MANUFACTURING CO., Proprietors,
38 South Fifth Street, - - BROOKLYN,
N.Y.
'OU can make your porch the fav-
orite gathering place for all the
family — a shaded, secluded refuge
from the summer sun, an ideal sleeping
room on summer nights, by equipping it with
PDRCH SHADES
Made of Aerolux Splint-Fabric, they shut out sun, yet let in
light and air. Aerolux No- Whip Attachment, an exclusive
feature, prevents whipping in the wind. Furnished in differ-
ent grades and colors at moderate prices. An architectural
adornment to any home.
Aerolux Splint-Fabric Awnings do not absorb and retain
heat, but keep it out. Write for illustrated catalog.
THE AEROSHADE CO., 523 Oakland Ave., Waukesha, Wit.
The "Geraldine^*
Maternity Corset $2.22
style with comfort. No longer is it necessary to
pay a high price for a SCIENTIFICALLY DESIGNED and
THOROUGHLY WELL=MADE corset. The "GERALDINE" pre-
serves the graceful outlines of the figure durlngmater-
nlty, giving ease and comfort to the mother and safe
guarding her well-being and that of the child. EASE
OF ACTION AND NORMAL APPEARANCE SECURED.
Your money back if you are not
absolutely satisfied
If you will return the corset. Send your order at
once and let us prove that to haA^e a perfectly designed
and supremely comfortable Maternity Corset Is no
longer an expensive matter. AH regular sizes. Send
waist measure.
"Geraldine" Reducing Corset
$3.
00
Another of our specialties that is splendid value,
for what you pay. We send them upon receipt of price,
and if you are not satisfied we will refund your money,
if you will return the corset.
All orders sent prepaid in the United States and
Canada.
Send Mail Orders to
GERALDINE CORSET COMPANY
47 Winter Street, Boston, Mass.
Buy advertised Goods
-"Dojiot accept substitutes
77
AMERICAN COOKERY
War on Prices
WAR cut off the supply of alum,
inumfrom Europe — prices in America
skyrocketed. While preparing to
meet these conditions, by advancing my prices,
I made a fortunate buy of aluminum at less
than present market value which enables me
to offer
10,000 ^^i^
Fireless CooKers
Priced Wa>^ Down
It vnW be a year at least before I can again offer the Rapid at my
present special low prices. I am giving you this supreme oppor-
tunity to get a Rapid Fireless Cooker complete, equipped with pure
Aluminum Cooking Utensils, at less than before-the-war prices.
Write today for big special offer.
30 Days* Trial in "Voxar Home on My
Personal Money-BacK
Gxiaranty
I want you to use the Rapid Fireless
Cooker this way for 30 days. Then
I want you to take a vote of the en-
lire family and yourself. If all of you
don't say that you never had better
meals, more wholesomely cooked, I
want you to return the Rapid and
1 11 return your money at once.
Send for Big FREE Book
and special low price offer — book
of 1 50 Recipes by famous chefs
FREE. Send postal today.
Wm. Campbell, Pres.
The Wm. Campbell Co.
Dept. 173, Detroit, Mich.
Aluminum Lined Throughout
Full Equipment "Wear-Ever"
Aluminum Cooking Utensils
—30 Days free—
You want the Best Hot-weather
REFRIGERATOR at the lowest price that
money can buy. Get a "WHITE
FROST at FIRST COST."
Direct from Factory to Home
30 Days' Free Trial Freight Prepaid
Easy Payments to Suit Purchaser
Awarded the GOLD MEDAL at World's Fair
San Francisco Exposition, 1915
Let uBtell you about the best. Send uostal today
for handsome FREE CATALOG
H. L. Smith, PrsBident
White Frost Refrigerator
Company
643 N. Mechanic St.
Jackson, Mich.
THE GREAT
WhiteFro!?^
Refrigej
Sanirdrfd$CQf0S
How to Serve an Invalid's Food
Sterilize the utensils and dishes em-
ployed thoroughly with faith, that the
germs of fear may be destroyed. Sur-
round the table, or tray, on which the
food is served, with conversation which
is filled with the flowers of cheerfulness
and adorned with pictures of health
and beauty. Season the food with
helpful sympathy and patience, but
never with pity, which is very weakening
in its effect.
Add to every dish some stimulant
which arouses wholesome interest in
the life of the day.
Cinnamon Cake
2 cups sifted flour
^ cup light brown
sugar
2 tablespoonfuls
butter
1 cake compressed yeast
I cup milk, scalded and
cooled
1 tablespoonful sugar
\ teaspoonful salt
Dissolve yeast and one tablespoonful
sugar in the luke-warm milk. Add
three-fourths cup flour to make sponge.
Beat well, cover and let rise forty-five
minutes in a moderately warm place.
Add butter and sugar creamed, egg
well-beaten, about one and one-fourth
cups flour, or sufficient to make a soft
dough, and the salt. Knead lightly,
place in greased bowl. Cover and let
rise in a warm place about two hours,
or until double in bulk.
Roll one-half inch thick and place in
well-greased pan and let rise until light —
about an hour and a half. Cut across
top with sharp knife, brush with egg,
sprinkle liberally with sugar and cinna-
mon. Bake twenty minutes in a
moderately hot oven.
QEND us two (2) new yearly
^ subscriptions at $1.00 each
and we will renew your own sub-
scription one year.
AMERICAN COOKERY
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
78
ADVERTISEMENTS
i-HAY'S-
Pure
Fruit
Juices
COMBINED IN
Hay s Five Fruit Syrup
make a most wholesome drink at all
seasons for all people — old or young.
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready.
Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00
Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write
to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 5c
for mailing liberal sample.
SUMMER TIME IS SANDWICH TIME
STICHNEY & POOR'S
prepare:d mustard
5^?^^^."?-4hs '^t ^ofd Jn PURITY, FLAVOR, KEEPING
QUALITIES. AND CONVENIENCE OF PACKAGE
The knowing ones have long since preferred its deliciousness to all
others. Stickney & Poor's Mustards, Spices, Seasonings and Fla-
vorings are Standard and guaranteed by a firm that for over one
hundred years has I merited public confidence by manufacturing
superior products. For Goodness sake insist on Stickney & Poor's
when you order from your grocer.
Your Co-operating Servant, MUSTARDPOT."
^ STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY
Hf * 1815--Century Old— Century Honored- -1916
■ BOSTON, MASS.
Three Summer
Recipes
Easy-Made with
Famous Sunkist Lemons
SNOW JELLY Half a box of gelatine dis-
solved in a quart of warm
water and beaten to a foam with a half pound
of sugar, whites of 3 eggs and the juice of 4
Sunkist Lemons, makes Snow Jelly. Add a
custard made of the yolks of the eggs.
SUNKIST SHERBET To one quart of
nch milk and two
cups of sugar, add the juice of three Sunkist
Lemons and one Sunkist Orange. Place in
freezer and turn steadily until mixture is stiff,
then cover closely and let it ripen for about
two hours. A slice of orange preserve may be
served with each portion, or a few maraschino
cherries with their syrup.
CAMINO FRUIT CUP M^^e a rich
lemonade with
five Sunkist Lemons, one cup of sugar, and
three cups of water, adding the juice of two
Sunkist Oranges and half a cup of pineapple
juice. Chill thoroughly and pour into high,
narrow tumblers which have been frosted by
dipping the edges quickly into lemon juice
and then in coarse sugar. Place a small slice
of canned pineapple on top and a sprig of
mint and two straws in the center where
hollowed out. Add a large cherry or straw-
berry^ and serve.
umkist
California's Selected Practically Seed-less
Lemons
are juicy, tart, full-flavored, and are sent to
your dealer in sanitary tissue wrappers
after having been picked by gloved hands,
and thoroughly scrubbed with brushes.
There are no finer and no cleaner lemons.
Insist on Sunkist, since they cost no more
than common kinds. Sunkist are uniformly
better lemons.
California Fruit Growers Exchange
Co-operative— Non-Proflt
Eastern Headquarters : Dept.
B-51, 139 N. Clark St., Chicago
11
Buy advertised Goods_ — Do_not accept substitutes
79
AMERICAN COOKERY
^mmw Hh
Minute Dainties-madewitii
Minute Tapioca6'Minute Gelatine
Danish Pudding
Cook M cup Minute Tapioca in 3 cupfuls hot
water fifteen minutes. Add % cup sugar, 1
saltspoon salt and 1 small tumbler grape
jelly. Stir till dissolved. Serve ice-cold with
sugar and whipped cream. Pint ripe straw-
berries may be used in place of jelly.
Maple Walnut Tapioca
Heat 1 pint milk and stir into it carefully 2
heaping tablespoons Minute Tapioca. Cook
fifteen minutes, then add the well-beaten
yolk of 2 eggs and a pinch of salt, but NO
sugar. Stir for 3 minutes, then let cool.
Beat Vi cup of maple syrup into the cool
tapioca and add English walnut meats,
chopped fine. Serve with whipped cream
and place half nuts on the top.
American Cream
Heat 1 pint milk boiling hot, stir in slowly 1
envelope Minute Gelatine which has been
mixed with two tablespoons sugar. Add the
yolks of two eggs, beaten with a little salt
and cook only a moment, stirring constantly.
Remove from fire, stir in the whites of the
eggs, beaten with 2 tablespoons sugar, and
flavor to taste. Shown here molded in sher-
bet glass and served with whipped cream into
which dry cocoa has been stirred. (Teaspoon
of dry cocoa to one cup of cream, whipped).
Tapioca Pie
Bake a short pie crust. Cook 1 pint milk
and 4 tablespoon Minute Tapioca 15 minutes.
Add % cup sugar, beaten yolks of 2 eggs
and ^ cup of cherry preserves. Stir until
quite thick, flavor with lemon, pour into pie
crusts Cover with meringue and browTi.
Jellied Chicken
Boil 1 chicken until it falls from the bones. Salt
and pepper and strain off the broth. Cook down
the broth to a scant quart, then add 2 envelopes
Minute Gelatine dissolved in 2 tablespoons boiling
water and add the chicken chopped. Put in a mold
and when hard, turn on a platter. Slice with a
sharp knife and garnish with parsley and hard
boiled eggs. Shown here molded in individual
molds or cups, a slice of hard boiled egg jellied in
the side of each mold. Garnish with lettuce leaves
or parsley.
124
Dainty Desserts
in the FREE
Minute Cook
Book
Requires
No Soaking
A great variety of old and
new tapioca desserts can be
made with it in fifteen minutes. No
long soaking, nor underdone desserts.
Minute Tapioca is an energy food for
everybody, with especial benefits for romp-
ing children and people who exercise.
Delicious, wholesome and pure.
Price, I5c for full size 10 oz. package.
Medal of Honor, Highest Award at Panama -Pacific Exposition
Awarded Minute Tapioca and Minate Gelatine
Buy advertised Goods
- Do_not accept substitutes
80
ADVERTISEMENTS
Mrs.Derby^i
Mrs. Delia M. Derby
-in charge of Recipe,
[enu and House-
fhold Help Service of Minute Tapioca Companyo
Neapolitan Jelly
Dissolve 2 envelopes Minute Gelatine and 1
cup sugar in 2 cups of boiling water. Divide
in three parts. Color one part pink and flavor
with rose. Leave one part white and flavor
with lemon. The third part color with dis-
solved cocoa. Beat each part as it begins to
jell and mold separate flavors in after-dinner
coffee cups or small molds. Serve as shown
with whipped cream and whole nuts.
New Minute Cook
Book FREE With
Generous Sample
Minute Gela-
tine
Measured
for Use
Four envelopes to each
package, one pint of jelly to each
envelope. Promptly dissolves in hot
milk or water. Makes light, tempting, trans-
parent desserts.
Sample package of Minute Gelatine, enough to make
a pint of jelly, sent free with Minute Cook Book. The
Minute Cook Book gives a choice from 124 delicious
Tapioca and Gelatine recipes which you can make in
a few minutes. Use coupon.
MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY
806 East Main Street Orange, Mass.
Oreuige Fluff
Mix 1 envelope Minute Gelatine and 3
tablespoons sugar and dissolve m 1 cup oi
boiling water. Add the sugar and grated
rind of 1 orange and the Juice of ^ a lemon.
When beginning to set, mix in the stiffly
beaten whites of two eggs. This may be
served In sherbet cups or molded as shown
with whipped cream and whole nuta on
top.
Strawberry Tapioca
Cook for fifteen minutes in a double boiler % cnp
Minute Tapioca, Ji cup sugar, 1 teaspoon butter and
3 cups of hot water. Crush 1 pint strawberries,
sweeten to taste and let stand one-half hour. Tal?e
the tapioca from the fire and stir in the fruit. Set in
a cool place. It should be served very cold. This des-
sert is delicious served with whipped cream. Rasp-
berries may be used in place of strawberries. Shown
molded in sherbet glass.
Pineapple Tapioca
Boil K cup Minute Tapioca, ^ cup of sugar, and a
pinch of salt in 4 cups of water till clear. Remove
from fire and add 1 cup pineapple grated or chopped
with M cup of sugar. Serve with cream. This is
shown served on a slice of canned pineapple with
whipped cream and whole nut on top.
9
^>^^
</
■Q
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
81
AMERICAN COOKERY
Sharp Knives and Scissors
The HOUSEHOLD GRINDER
will keep your knives and scissors
sharp.
"A Child can use it, it's fun."
Satisfaction guaranteed or your money
back.
Sent postpaid for $1.50
H. G. THOMPSON
Plainfield New Jersey
Domestic Science
Hoxne-StMcly Coxirses
Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Childrea.
For Homemakers, Teachers and for
well-paid positions.
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents.
"The Up-to-Date Home," 16 cents.
AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO
I TMI TQf T A I Dinner and Luncheon Menus containing 1 83 recipes.
UilUOUAL Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv-
ered 32c. Address King's Daughters Society, 2320 E. lstSt.,Dalath,Minn.
iiiiiiii
Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72
Hours orSteai:iiingHot24Hours
A necessity in every home — indispensable when
traveling or on any outing'. Keeps baby's
milk at right temperature, or invalid's
hot or cold drink all night without heat,
ice or bother of preparation.
Thoroughly protected against breakage.
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass.
Instantly demountable— easy to keep clean.
Typical Icy-Hot Values
No. 31. Bottie— Black Morocco Leath-
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5 25
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for
oysters,solidfood,ete.Pt. 3.00; Ot. 4.50
No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine
and tan, Pt. 1.75; Ot. 2.75
No. 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint
bottle and drinking cup 1.25
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle Qt. 9.00
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer
cannot supply you, accept no sub-
stitute— we will supply you direct^
at above prices, charges pre-
paid. Write for catalog show-
ing many styles from $1 up.
Icy-Hot Bottle Co.,
Cincinnati, D'
W^
Mudge Patent Canner
The modern way of canning fruits and vegetables
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY
Write for information
BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY
3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa.
One of the reasons why you will
get the best results when you use
Fleischmann*s Yeast
is because this yeast is absolutely
uniform in purity and strength.
Our new recipe book free for the
asking.
The Fleischmann Company
701 Washington Street New York City
CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS
Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean
pure unadulterated California products from producer to
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to
answer inauiries-
JOHN T. GRIFFITH
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, CaL
POMPEIAN
OLIVE OIL
ALVS^AYS FRESH
PURE -SWEET> WHOLESOME
Buy advertised Goods — Do not_accept substitutes
82
ADVERTISEMENTS
SEEK
Contains the Same Active Principle as Junket
Every publication which has a household department prints recipes for making
Junket. These vary from the very simple to the elaborate desserts.
Authorities on the science of cookery write a great deal on the healthfulness
and deliciousness of Junket Pudding and Ice Cream.
And now the Junket Folks have a new dessert, CiESH^Fl , which is made by
simply adding warm milk. Think what it means to a busy woman to know that
this food dessert, so easily made, is nourishing for every member of her family.
STRAWBERRY KES^H ICE CREAM
Heat two quarts of milk luke warm, stir into it 2'/2 or 3 packages of
^ES^fiH ^^^ ^/2 minute. Pour into ice cream can and let stand un-
disturbed until coagulated or about ten minutes. Pack with ice and
salt and freeze to a thick mush, then add 1/2 pint heavy cream and one
quart of sweetened crushed strawberries. Finish freezing.
SIX PURE FLAVORS
Vanilla Chocolate Lemon
Orange Raspberry Almond
A postcard will bring a FREE SAMPLE and a Booklet of Recipes
CHR. HANSEN^S LABORATORY, Inc., Box 2507, Little Falls N.Y.
lOd HADE IN \ |0<
ISn<G 6 FLAVORS ^ra^
THE JUNKCTTOLKS \
Send For This
Free Sample Botde
of
^itchen^ouauet
(Eeg. U. S. Pat. Office)
Add a dash to your gravies, stews,
soups and sauces. You will find it
imparts a wonderfully delicious, appe-
tizing relish and zest, and a rich, brown
color.
One Trial Will Convince You
Once you have tried Kitchen Bouquet, you will
never again be without this economical aid to
cooking, which has been used by expert
cooks for more than thirty years.
With the sample bottle of Kitchen
Bouquet, we will send you also a book-
let containing many tested recipes for
delicious dishes. Address
The Palisade Manufacturing Co.
353 Clinton Avenue, West Hoboken, N. J.
The Babies of Our Nation
Need Holstein Cows* Milk
All over our land today we see movements toward the
prevention rather than the cure of disease. In looking
after the nation's future, our attention should center on
the new-born babes. It is their right to have given them
in the very beginning of their existence every assistance
possible to insure them strong, healthy, vigorous con-
stitutions.
Nearly all the leading medical authorities today say,
"clean pure, Holstein cows' milk is best for infant feed-
ing" because it is nearest to the human mother's milk, and
in addition it imparts the strength and vitality of the
large, strong and vigorous, black-and-white Holstein cow.
What's good for baby is good for any invalid or con-
valescent. Holstein milk is naturally light-colored. Don't
imagine that yellow milk is better, for it isn't. Investigate
purebred registered Holstein cows' milk by sending for
our free booklet, "The Story of Holstein Milk."
Holstein-Freisian Association of America
F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec'y
15-W American Building, Brattleboro, Vermont
Buy advertised Goods — Do not_accept substitutes
^2,
AMERICAN COOKERY
AMEfilCAM COOEEgY
Practical Binders for American Cookery
We have had made a number of binders in green, red and ecru buckram,
appropriately lettered. They are neat, attractive and practical. Each holds
conveniently from one to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine.
As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a com-
plete index, by preserving the magazines in a binder one will have at the
end of the year a complete book on cooking and household science always
handy for reference.
Sent postpaid iW one (1) new subscription to American Cookery. Cash Price 50c
The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. Ma's""
EAT AND GROW THIN
Satisfying menus that will take off "weight with-
out starving you. Tells what you can eat, not
w^hat you can't. Thousands are f ollow^ing these
rules successfully. Safe. Practical. Effective.
Price $1, Postage extra. At any bookstore or
from
E. P. DUTTON & CO. 681 Fifth Ave. N.Y.
We have issued a 16-page
PREMIUM LIST
SEND A POSTAL FOR ONE
IF YOU can obtain among your friends a few sub-
scriptions to American Cookery and
so secure for yourself, without cost, some
of the best and most useful cooking uten-
sils— OR
IF YOU wish lo purchase for cash the latest and
most unique cooking novelties.
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
For a limited time, we can supply
all back numbers of American
Cookery and Boston Cooking-
School Magazine at 10 cts. each.
Order now if you wish to com-
plete your files.
We will pay 25 cents each
for Boston Cooking -School
Magazine issues of August,
1912, and June, 1913.
Address
AMERICAN COOKERY, BOSTON, MASS.
T^HE bottom of the center space
is closed ; in this can be served
any creamed meat, oysters or vege-
tables, garnished around the edges
with parsley, radishes or olives.
Another excellent way of using
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf
and fill with salad; or fill the shell
with an ice or ice cream and gar-
nish with fruit.
We will send a set of Crisp
Card Moulds — with recipes and
directions — postpaid, to any present
subscriber as premium for sending
us two (2) new yearly subscriptions for American Cookery at $ 1 .00 each. Cash price $ 1 .00 prepaid.
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO BOSTON. MASS.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
84
ADVERTISEMENTS
~ 1^" I For this Wonderful Set, prepaid
$2.00
GOOD
Things to work with make
light work, and better work.
Look
This eight piece Kitchen Set,
every piece guaranteed and
something you need. Six silver
plated spoons, sterling silver
pattern. Guaranteed for 10
years. The value of the spoons
is the same as we are selling you
the combination for.
Send in your order today
Mackinac Specialty Co.
Mackinac Island, Mich.
I ESSONS IN COOKING '^^^£.
*^266 seasonable menus with ddailed redpe* and hJl directions for pre-
Baring each mealo Food Economy, Balanced Die«, Menus for all Oeca-
tiOEs, Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette, 480 pp.
Illustrated. Sent on approval for 60c and 60c for 4 montha or %i Cash.
5ampl« Pages Pree.
Am«rlcan Scbool of Home Economics, 603 W. 69tli St., Cliicago, HI.
"Three-in-One*'
Set of 60 Pieces, $5.75
HILTON CHINA I^^S^^
Direct from Potteries
Our " Three-in-One Specialty," illustrated above, includes every
necessary dish for Breakfast. Dinner and Tea. The decoration
is a graceful spray of dainty pink roses and soft green foliage.
Each piece is lined with a pure gold edge. Sixty pieces. Price,
packed for shipment, $5.75. Guaranteed to Satisfy.
Free Book. Illustrating many exclusive sets of Hilton China —
sold by mail at prices that save
HILTON CHINA CO., Dept. A, East Liverpool, Ohio
BORDEN'S
W'HEN we went
away last sum-
mer we worried
about getting a
safe supply of
cows' milk for
our baby. A
friend sug-
gested "Eagle
Brand." Baby
liked it from the
first and got
along splendidly
— needless to say
we continued to use
EAGLE
Condensed
MILK
Send the coupon
to-day for these
helpful booklets.
BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK CO. a.o 6-16
108 Hudson St., New York City.
Please send me the booklets checked:
. . "The Important Business of Being a Mother."
.o "Baby's Biography."
.. "Borden's Recipes."
13 Days' Free Trial
Moth- ^
Proof
Cedar'
Chest
15 Days*
Free
Trial
How happy and grateful the woman or girl
who becomes the proud possessor of a Piedmond Southern
Red Cedar Chest ! It is the gift that every womanly heart longs
for. "Wonderfully useful and economical. A Piedmont protects furs,
woolens and plumes from moths, mice, dust and damp. Shipped on 1 5
days' free trial. Direct from factory at new reduced prices.
Write for u(j-pa?e catalosr. Postpaid free. Write today.
PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO. Dept. 89 StatesvUle, N. C.
SUPERIOR HOUSEHOLD ARTICLES
LADD MIXERS
No. 1, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD
BEATERS insert into and remove from same :
only ones thus made. We warrant they save
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti-
ful Made, By Parcel Post :
No. I, $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. States.
No. 1. 2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States
No. 2, 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West
"SATURN"
CLOTHESLINE REEL
A round Steel Ball — dust proof,
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft.
line, tested to 160 lbs. — takes
present clothes-pin. Use out-door
or m-door. Hangs anywhere. Two
spreading rings. Positively the best
made at any price. Sent Parcel
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.; nickel-
ed and polished, 65c.
CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES PLEASE WRITE
UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway. New York
Buy advertised Goods
-Do not accept subsLuun
85
AMERICAN COOKERY
BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE
MOULDS IN SETS
And in that way gel a free copy of the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and
Recipes, which adds greatly to the actual value of the investment without increasing
the cost of the same. The cost price, of each article, being the same, whether bought
in sets or separately, and the rules and recipes are only given with the sets, because
these cakes cannot be baked successfully in greased tins, and it is necessary to have
the entire outfit in order to insure perfect success, in making all cakes.
These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right,
being so practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck** has been in
the past, success will be assured, every time these instructions are followed correctly,
and ANGEL, SUNSHINE and other of the most delicate, delicious and desirable
cakes made easier than the ordinary ones are by the old methods.
OUR SPECIAL OFFER
If your dealer will not supply you, we will
send, postpaid, our regular set, consisting of, I
Loaf and 2 Layer Moulds, regular size, round
or square, I Measuring Cup, 1 Egg Whip and
a copy of our Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes,
— to Offices — in the United States — east of
the Mississippi River for 90 cents, and to those
west of the same for $1.10.
Our Scientific Method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let them stick, and loosen
the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be removed — each mould being provided with
openings at the sides, which are covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted to loosen the
cake from the bottom. In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking, and prevents its
settling, and becoming "soggy."
They may claim that some other kinds of cake moulds are "just as good" as these, and also that
these Scientific Rules and Recipes are no better than the ordinary ones, but you will only have to
consult a few, of the thousands, of the cakemakers who are using these, or give the outfit a thorough
trial yourself, in order to be convinced of the superior merits of these, — not only for Angel Cake,
but for making all other kinds as well.
AGENTS WANTED ^° canvass the Towns and Small Cities — where we have not been able to give
**^"*" * '^ '' X^ll 1 1^1/ demonstrations — and educate the cakemakers in regard to the great advantages to be
derived by practicing our scientific method of cake-making, and take orders for our speciahies. We will arrange with
Church, Domestic Science and other Societies, that want to make money, to act as our agents. This offers a rare
opportunity to build a very profitable, and permanent, business. For our special terms to agents, address Dept. A.
THE CHAPMAN CO.
Geneva, N. Y.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
86
ADVERTISEMENTS
f
Some Intimate Facts About Jell-0
The waxed-paper bag inside the Jell-0
carton affords absolute protection to the
contents against moisture and atmospheric
conditions.
It is air-proof and moisture-proof , keeping
the Jell-0 always pure, clean and sweet.
The Jell-0 in every package is fresh,
whether made yesterday or many months
ago. It does not lose its flavor or grow stale.
The last package of the dozen on the
pantry shelf is as fresh and sweet as the first.
From start to finish the operation of
'putting-up"
jELL-0
is an interesting one. Wonderful automatic
machines perform it — each completing a package of
Jell-O in two seconds — from making the waxed-paper
bag and filling it with Jell-O, to putting the filled bag
and a recipe folder in the carton and closing and
sealing it.
It is all very sanitary and very satisfactory.
The seven flavors of Jell-O are Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon,
Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate. All are pure fruit flavors, of
course. Each, 10 cents at any grocer's.
THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., LeRoy, N.Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont.
These trade - mark
Crcsc
Crystals'
For CASES OF Stomacj
pacKage
arlcy
AND DESSERT
FOODS
AND Liver Troubles
r gooilt
lie, write
Y., U. S. A.
/'/ :/
BREAD BOARD
Eleven inch turned and carved maple bread board
Imported, Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber for
securing and sending us one(l) new yearly subscription
for American Cookery. Cash price. 65c
The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co.
Boston. Mass.
THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2^
Needed in every home. Just the thing
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets,
etc. Fastens to tahle or shelf. Turns
easy with one hand. Geared for high
speed. Gears enclosed make it per-
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures
even grinding. Fully guaranteed.
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or
with our famous 2-in-1 Flour Sifter
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2 50.
2-IN-l
$152
FLOUR
SIFTER
( Tesfed and approved by
Good Housekeeping Institute)
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to
clean. Has two compartments
with sifter betw^een. Sift flour,
then turn sifter and re-sift as often
as desired. No trouble, no waste,
little work. Far better, cleaner,
easier, more economical than old
method.
Sent prepaid upon receipt of $1 .00
(or three for $2.00), or with
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every
housewife needs them both. Order
today.
Agents and Dealers Wanted
Write for our liberal proportion
WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO.
858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
87
AMERICAN COOKERY
speaking of his delight in his wife's housekeeping, Robert Louis Stevenson said:
"My joy is to see her hanging clothes on the line in a high wind".
npHERE is something almost jolly in a swinging line of snow-white clothes
-■- dancing in the sun. Their very appearance is such good compensation for
the work of washing that every woman should be interested in whatever will help
make them whiter and clearer than ever.
Ivory Soap will do this. It not only cleanses clothes thoroughly but because of
its own whiteness and quality it does not discolor fabrics nor leave streaks and
spots which defy the most thorough rhising.
After washing with Ivory Soap, clothes are as clear and white as soap and water
can make them. Sun and wind do not have to bleach out the effect of the wash-
ing itself. They merely give the finishing touch to garments that one can be
proud of the moment they go on the line.
IVORY SOAP
99M^ PURE
Factories at IvoryJale, Ohio; Port loory. New York: Kansas City, Kansas; Hamilton, Canada.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
88
ADVERTISEMENTS
-^4Wfe'.
"SHO' DATS DE PAPAH AH WANTS." ^
Painud by Edward V Brewer for Cream of Wheat Co Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheal Co.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
89
AMERICAN COOKERY
Vol. XXI
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1916
No. 2
CONTENTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
PAGE
SUGGESTIONS FOR SANDWICHES AND SIMPLE
DINNERS FOR AUGUST 97
DELIGHTS OF FOOD EATEN AL FRESCO. The Open-
air Salle a Manger of French Town and Country Life. 111.
Blanche McManus 99
ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT IN FORM OF
GARDEN AND FOUNTAIN. Ill Jane Vos 102
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL Ladd Plumley 106
WORK AND WAGES VS. YEARS . . . AHce Whitaker 110
NATURE'S APPEAL Caroline Louise Sumner 111
WEATHER TO ORDER Helen Forrest 112
AUGUST L. M. Thornton 114
PHYLLIS PROVIDES Aldis Dunbar 115
SIMPLIFIED BUNGALOW LIFE .... Anna B. Classon 116
EDITORIALS 118
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with
half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . Janet M. Hill 121
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN AUGUST „ „ 130
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN SEPTEMBER „ „ 131
OUR DAILY BREAD OR THREE MEALS A DAY „ „ 132
RENUNCIATION . Arthur W. Peach 134
SUMMER DRINKS ....... Emma Gary Wallace 135
SHAKESPEARE'S VEGETABLES Sarah Graham Morrison 137
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— Young Squash— Nun's
Fritters — Left-Over Macaroni and Rice — Making and Drinking
Coffee in Europe — Etc 139
QUERIES AND ANSWERS 143
THE SILVER LINING 147
MISCELLANEOUS 160
$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY
Four Years' Subscription^ $3.00
Canadian postage 20c a year additional Foreign postage 40c.
Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter.
Copyright, 1916, by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose
90
ADVERTISEMENTS
r'r:""ii
Try this recipe for making
orange layer cake
Cream one-half cup Cottolene with one
cup of sugar until very light. Add three
eggs, one at a time, beating in each
for five minutes before adding another.
Then sift two teaspoons of baking pow-
der with two cups of sifted flour, mix-
ing thoroughly, and add to the other
materials, alternating with a half cup of
milk or water — (water if the cake is to
be eaten while fresh).
Beat the batter well after all the in-
gredients are in. Bake in two layers in a
moderately hot oven for about 20
minutes.
Cottolene is superior to anything else you
can use for shortening or frying. It is
wholesome, its use is simple, and it gives
a delicious flavor to all foods that are short-
ened with or fried in it
Order a regular supply of Cottolene, the
Natural Shortening, of your grocer. It is
put up in pails of various sizes to suit your
convenience.
Write our General Offices, Chicago, for a copy of
our real cook book, "HOME HELPS."
EsKSLFAIRBANK^^nyJ
■■■M
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
91
AMERICAN COOKERY
Learn Dressmaking
on Your Own Front
Porch This Summer
How many times have you
wished you knew how to cut and
fit a waist, a skirt or frock, or
make and trim a hat? Think how
much money you could save by
making your own clothes !
The most wonderful opportun-
ity to become expert in clothes and
their making is open to you now.
A practical, thorough, easy-lesson
method has been perfected by the
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences
to teach women and girls by mail, in their own homes. By the
courses it offers you can learn on your own porch this summer,
in your spare time, every phase of dressmaking or millinery.
By fascinating new methods you will quickly learn how to
design cleverly, to draft patterns, to make every sort of
simple or elaborate garment, to select and
r.se materials, or to design and make all
kinds of millinery. You can qualify to make
your own or your children's clothes cr to be
a dressmaker or milliner.
Send for this FREE Book
"Dressmaking Made Easy" and "Millinery
Made Easy" zre handsome books describing
these courses in detail. Write a postal or
letter today, or send this coupon, stating
whether you are interested in Home or
Professional Dressmaking or Millinery. We
will send the right book— /ree.
Woman's Institute, Dept.l2G, 358 Fifth Ave., New York
Please send me one of your FREE books. I am interested in
the subject I have marked below.
D Home Dressmaking D Professional Dressmaking D Millinery
Name
Specify whether Mrs. or Miss
I Address ^^
''The Fascination of the New Housekeeping"
THAT is how members speak of the new cor-
respondence course Household Engineering,
Scientific Management of the Home. It pro-
duces results in housekeeping just as marvelous as
scientific management in other industries. It easily
saves up to a third of the time spent in housework,
smooths out difficulties and reduces expense. It
changes indifference to enthusiasm and brings about
the splendid efficiency attitude of mind that makes
for success, health and happiness.
All who are interested in housekeeping or who
would like help in their problems or who wish to
make progress in their life work are invited to enroll
(this month)/r^^ of charge. Simply write a post card
or note or clip the following:
Am. School of Home Ecokomics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago
Please enroll me for your new course, "Household Engineer-
ing." Send details and directions and Part I, The Lahor Saving
Kitchen, 64 pp. and the remaining eleven (11) Parts, one per
month. When I am sure of the value of the course to me. I
will pay $8.50 in full (or) I will send $1.00 per month till $9.00
is paid. Otherwise I will return the lesson books received and
pay nothing.
Signed,
(Kindly give some information about yourself.)
CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS
Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean
pure unadulterated California products from producer to
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to
answer inquiries-
JOHN T. GRIFFITH
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal.
INDEX FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
Page
Artistic Flower Arrangement 102
August 114
Delights of Food Eaten al Fresco 99
Double Professional, A 106
Editorials 118
Home Ideas and Economies 139
Menus 130, 131
Nature's Appeal Ill
Our Daily Bread, or Three Meals a Day . . . 132
Phyllis Provides 115
Renunciation. ■ 134
Shakespeare's Vegetables 137
Silver Lining, The 147
Simplified Bungalow Life 116
Suggestions for Sandwiches and Simple
Dinners for August 97
Summer Drinks - 135
Weather to Order 112
Work and Wages vs. Years 110
Seasonable and Tested Recipes:
Biscuit, Buttercup 127
Chicken, Saute 125
Chowder, Fresh Fish 121
Corn, Sweet, Roasted 126
Cornbread, Country Style 129
Croquettes, Curried Fish, 111 122
Croutons, Extract of Beef — Ham 124
Crusts for Soup, Deviled 127
Cucumbers, Stuffed 126
Dumpling, Peach, Ih 127
Eggs a la Messina 122
Fishballs, Jerusalem 121
Griddlecakes, Elizabeth's 129
Ham, Baked, Autumn Style 124
Ice cream, Manhattan 127
Ice cream. Queen Style 128
Jam, Tomato 128
Lamb, Roast Leg of, Breton Style, 111. . . 123
Livers, Chicken, and Bacon 126
Muffins, Delicate 129
Peaches, Windsor Style, 111 127
Pudding, Indian Style 129
Pudding, Princess, with Marshmallows 128
Rice, Ristori Style 128
Salad, Chicken, Early Summer Style. . . . 125
Salad, Cream Cheese 129
Salad, Stuffed Tomato, 111 124
Sandwiches, Tomato, 111 125
Sherbet, Peach 127
Souffle, French Cocoa 129
Steak, Breslauer, Mushroom Sauce. . . . 123
Trout, Brook, with Bacon 122
Vinegar, Raspberry 128
Waffles, Green Corn, Ih 126
Queries and Answers:
Butter, Cooked 144
Cake, Moist Gold 144
Chutney 146
Cocktail, Fruit, Service of 144
Courses for a Formal Dinner 143
Dishes for Fireless Cooker 143
Eggs, To Preserve for Winter Use 145
Tood for Fifty Persons 145
Foods for a Formal Dinner 143
Newspapers, Keeping of 146
Pudding, Date and Tapioca 145
Relish, Hebrew, Pepper, Philadelphia . . 146
Scones, Scotch 145
Soap, Home-made 146
Strawberry and Raspberry Juice, Canned 145
Worth Knowing, 146
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
92
ADVERTISEMENTS
Plenty of Fruits
Means the housekeeper's opportunity. Now is tTie time
to get busy and put up for winter use. Don't depend on
the stores. Do your own. It's easy, pleasant and safer.
No fear of results. Everything is bound to come out right
if you go by
Mrs. Rorer's Canning and Preserving
It's worth something to know that your time and materials are not wasted in
guess work. Recipes for canning and preserving all the fruits and vegetables;
how to make Marmalades, Jams, Fruit Jellies and Butters, Syrups, Catsups,
etc.; also Pickling and Drying.
Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents
Ice Creams, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings
It makes the mouth water to read the good things in this book. Delicious,
easy to make, and money-saving. There are Philadelphia and Neapolitan Ice
Creams, Sherbets, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings, Sorbets, etc., and Refresh-
ments for Social affairs and Church Suppers.
Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents
Mrs. Rorer's Hot Weather Dishes
Hot weather certainly takes the edge off the appetite. Let us tempt it by
the array of delightful dishes Mrs. Rorer has gotten together in this book.
Easily prepared, giving ease and comfort to the perplexed housewife.
Bound in cloth, 50 cents; by mail 55 cents
Mrs. Rorer's New Salads
A hot day and a nice, cool, crisp salad. What a combination ! Here are plenty
for Dinners, Luncheons, Suppers, Receptions and for every day Home use.
Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents
Mrs. Rorer's Sandwiches
A bewildering array of Dainty Sandwiches for Suppers, Teas, Social Calls,
Picnics, School Lunches, etc., and for all Emergencies.
Bound in cloth, 50 cents; by mail 55 cents
Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
93
AMERICAN COOKERY
BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
A NEW BOOK
OF COOKERY
An almost indispensable companion volume to Miss
Farmer's "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." It contains
852 recipes upon all branches not included in her older
book, many of which are not to be found elsewhere.
Over 200 UlusiraciQt
\il.6o net, postpaid.
TABLE SERVICE
By LUCY G. ALLEN
A clear, concise; and yet comprehensive exposition of the
waitress' duties, including not only laying the table and serv-
ing, but tray service^ carving, the care of the dining room, etc.
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Three Up-to-date Domestic Science Texts
A Guide to Laundry Work "'
MARY D. CHAMBERS, B S., A.M.
Formerly Instructor of Normal Classes in
Domestic Science, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn,
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Illinois ; Professor of Chemistry and Home Economics, and Head of the Departments, Rockford College, Rock'
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Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents.
This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry work. The description
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very clear, detailed and numerous. The scientific side has not been neglected. The reason for every process is given,
but in very simple language. The chapter on reagents deals with simple chemistry applied to laundry work.
MARY D. CHAMBERS,
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Principles of Food Preparation
Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15
Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system. Each chapter has 5 parts:
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chemistry and analysis of food. Valuable appendices. A series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased
and the 100 colorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of
food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students.
I • n t. i^ 1 • By MARY CHANDLER JONES
Lessons in Llementary Cooking ^ sfo?/o?f.r./r„^*5.si:""
Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15
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, The flavor of doughnuts and potatoes fried in *' Simon Pure" is
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Suggestions for Sandwiches
BREAD . . . White, rye, whole wheat, Graham, French, orange, noisette, Boston brown,
(with and without raisins), dinner rolls, baking powder biscuit, buttercup
biscuit, English mufhns, scones (sweetened and unsweetened).
FILLING . . . Sardines, sardines with sifted egg-yolks, anchovy paste, anchovies pounded,
deviled ham, ham and chicken chopped together or sliced thin, cold pickled
tongue, cream cheese and orange marmalade, cream cheese and olive butter,
cream cheese and pimientoes, peanut butter, sliced nuts and grated cheese,
cream cheese and chopped ginger (preserved), strawberry jam, raspberry
or strawberry jam and chopped almonds.
TEA HOUSE Club, tomato, mayonnaise of lettuce and sliced eggs, chicken salad, hot ham,
QA\Tr»\Y/Tr^I-II7Q '^'^^ cheese (ham or cheese sandwiches dipped in beaten egg and milk and
oAINlJWlL.Hilb fried), hot roast beef, hot broiled bacon, cress, lettuce or cucumbers with
(Eaten with fork) French dressing.
Simple Dinners for Hot Days (August)
{To eliminate long-continued stove heat.)
I
Jellied Bouillon
Broiled Bluefish or Lakefish
Creamed Potatoes Summer Squash
Sliced Tomatoes or Cucumbers, French Dressing
Peach or Lemon Sherbet
II
Lamb Chops, Broiled
White or Sweet Potatoes, Grilled
Egg Plant, Saute
Lettuce and Chinese Mustard, French Dressing
Sea Moss-Farine Blancmange, Sliced Peaches,
Cream
Iced Tea
III
Rump Tenderloin, Broiled, Maitre d'Hotel
Potatoes Hashed in Milk
Stewed Tomatoes
Celery
Individual Charlotte Russe
IV
Veal Loaf
Creamed Potatoes
Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce
Lettuce and Peppergrass, French Dressing
Floating Island
Iced Tea
BASKET WITH COMPARTMENTS FOR COVERED
PITCHER AND HANDLED GLASSES
FOR ICED TEA
A BOHEMIAN GARDEN DINING-ROOM IN FRANCE
American Cookery
Vol. XXI
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
No. 2
AN OPEN-AIR RESTAURANT IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE
Delights of Food Eaten Al Fresco
Tht Open Air Salles-a-M anger of French Town and Country Life
By Blanche McManus
SUMMER in France means life out-
doors, not spasmodically, but as
a rule, the household living liter-
ally in the open. The French have no
halfway measures; they live either in a
sealed-up house or practically an grand
air. They sew, gossip, receive their
friends and make open-air living-rooms of
their gardens from the moment the first
buds of spring appear.
In the fair land of France the crowning
pleasure of summertime means meals
taken out of doors. The French at home,
while touring or holiday-making, de-
mand to be fed out of doors; indeed, they
would consider themselves defrauded of
the best part of their outing, if condemned
to eat in a stuffy salle a manger when
the leaves are on the trees and the sun is
brightly shining, and as they have a de-
lightful fashion of making a pleasurable
function of the prosaic process of feeding,
idling in the country holds out the great
attraction of al fresco meals. So it is
that one finds himself catered for in the
open air at hotels and restaurants of all
classes and importance throughout la
belle France. And few there are who
99
100
AMERICAN COOKERY
would object to what is really a picnic
without any of the attendant ennuies
that meals out of doors usually entail.
The Parisian out-of-doors cafe-restau-
rants (note that it must be thus hyphen-
ated, if it is a place where meals are
served, a cafe alone being a place where
drinks only may be had) decorate not
unpleasingly the broad pavements of
the tree-shaded boulevards of ah the
quartiers. Their brightly tinted chairs
and wicker tables, set out with snowy
napery, fluttering in both winter and
summer breezes, are marshalled in
long rows on what is styled the terrasse
GARDEN OF AN OLD WAYSIDE INN
of the restaurant, which is but a slice of
the sidewalk, leaving only a narrow thor-
oughfare for the passerby, overflowing
even into the street itself on fete-days,
when all true Parisians flock to these gay
open-air dining-rooms for the better part
of their day's amusement.
Along what the Parisian calls "les
Grands Boulevards," the spacious, linked
up series of tree-lined thoroughfares,
which form the main artery of the lively,
beating heart of the ville lumiere, are
to be found dozens of these sidewalk
annexes to the establishments of the
famous purveyors of the best French
cuisine. There may be a screen
of a thin dado of evergreens,
placed in ornamental tubs, or,
more unblushingly, all may be
in the open, as once French roy-
alty dined in sight of all the
world.
Then these dining-rooms of
the Paris boulevards furnish
what may be styled the box-
seats, from which to view the
kaleidoscopic, passing-show of
the gay capital. The many
varied, interesting and astonish-
ing and amusing types of the
deux mondes, so wonderfully
represented here, actually brush
past one's luncheon or dinner
table and furnish the sauce
piquante that gives the true zest
to the recherche plats, creations
of some celebrated chef, which
are served in this gayety-charged
atmosphere of Paris en plein air.
It is, however, that sylvan
paradise of the Parisians, the
Bois de Boulogne, whose leafy
alleys and flower decorated gar-
den plots form the ideal staging
for open-air repasts unequalled
by any other of Paris' al fresco
dining-rooms. There are a
dozen or more of these restau-
rants of the Bois, many of them
housed in ornamental pavilions
or artfully rustic chalets, dotted
DELIGHTS OF FOOD EATEN AL FRESCO
101
over the green vistas, whose
reputations are not alone for
their famous cuisine, but for the
unique facilities they offer for
enjoying a meal under spread-
ing chestnut trees or to the
accompaniment of soft-sighing
breezes through stately pines,
within sight almost of Paris'
shops. For this they have
become international in their
fame.
Among the memories of Paris
days and nights there flits, as a
bright painted butterfly hovers
over brilliant summer flowers,
pictures of gay luncheon par-
ties, or groups of afternoon-tea
votaries, picturesquely disposed
around the little tables on the
banks of the tiny rose-bowered
lake dotted with swans, the
mis-en-scene of the open-air din-
ing salles of the Pavilion d'
Armenonville, or the clematis-
perfumed domain of the Pre
Catalan's group of chalet res-
taurants.
Again these reminiscences du
gourmet will be spangled, as
with a dance of fireflies on a
southern night, with the glitter
of evening hours at the Chateau
de Madrid, stately as a veritable
Renaissance chateau, and the
most frequented of all the chic
Bois resorts, its open court yard dining-
room representative with a throng of
mondains of many circles within circles
and without circles, which make up the
complex, mysterious, often dubious, but
always entertaining and fascinating
social system of the constellations of
Paris. It is as a fete-champetre of the
old court days at Versailles, when
Louis XIV first set the fashion of
dining out of doors in France.
All these al fresco restaurants of the
Bois are high in popular favor for wed-
ding breakfasts, chic Parisian bridal
parties considering it the crowning joy
r
^^^i^^^z:^
COURTYARD OF THE HOSTELLERIE GUILLAUAIE LE
C0NQUER.\NT
of an auspicious day to have their
wedding breakfast, which is really a
banquet of prodigious proportions, under
the trees of Paris' great dooryard park.
Saturda}^ the popular bridal day of the
Parisians, sees a continual stream of
bridal processions about to celebrate the
day by sitting down to a many-course
luncheon served and prepared beside the
tinkling music of the "Cascades," about
which is circled a colony of out-of-door
eating places.
War's prelude did dim the custom
during the first feverish months when
(Continued on page 152)
Artistic Flower Arrangement in the Form of Gardens
and Fountains
By Jane Vos
WHEN you and I were young,
dears," it was different. We
reverently trod the pebbly
paths in Grandma's formal garden,
listening with awe to the "Snip! Snip!"
of her relentless scissors. Meantime,
short-stemmed larkspurs, bachelor but-
tons, lady slippers, sweet-scented clove
pinks and all the rest of the old-fashioned
flowers tumbled riotously into our bas-
kets. When this daily flower-gather-
ing rite was over. Little Boy Blue and
the Brownie minced sedately by Grand-
ma's side, each helping to carry the
precious floral receptacles. After-
wards, we filled the vases with crystal
water from the spring, and "arranged"
the flowers. Cannot you just close your
eyes and see the big Chinese vase Sailor
Uncle Ben brought from over the seas?
And such a conglomeration as it was
when it was filled with roses, nastur-
tiums, bachelor buttons, lady slippers;,
and even the sweet-scented clove pinks!
Perhaps the Brownie and Little Boy
DAFFODILS ARE ARISTOCRATS
Blue were each privileged to arrange a
prim little nosegay, apiece, of these
same vari-colored flowers, encasing them
in lace-edged, paper flower-holders,
afterwards walking decorously beside
Grandmother to the Big White House
where the Sick-a-bed Lady lived.
That was in the Long Ago. Now-
a-days it is different. There are no more
mixed nosegays, except in our imagina-
tion, and the one that is best remem-
bered has a sprig of amaranth tucked
away in the heart o' it.
Like the Japanese, we are aiming at
simplicity, especially in our flower ar-
rangement. The single rose with its
own foliage reposing gracefully in a tall
vase; the loosely arranged cluster of
sweet peas, or Poeticus Narcissus, quite
nearly approach the Japanese idea of
cherry and peach blossoms, or a lovely
cluster of wistaria arranged in an ap-
propriate receptacle in the tokonoma —
the place of honor in a Japanese house-
hold.
Elaborate banks of roses, lilies, maiden-
hair fern and floral whatnots, reposing
on ostensible wall mirrors in the center
of the dining-room table, are no longer
considered in good form. The simpler
the arrangement of the new center-
piece, the better, according to art-
nouveau methods, in order that those
who surround the festal board, be they
the members of our own family, or
guests bidden to accept our hospital-
ity, may be able to see those opposite.
Is there anything more exasperating
than to sit at a luncheon table and be
obliged to crane your neck, first this
way, then that, in a vain effort to be-
hold your vis-a-vis when addressing her ?
Then, too, there is something about
the formal arrangement of flowers that
102
ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
103
is blatantly disquieting, like the effect
of brilliant red or crude figured wall
papers.
AH the shops, from the florist's to the
department store, now show an assort-
ment of flower receptacles that are in
striking contrast to the old-fashioned
tall vase. The new holder is a modest,
shahow affair, and it comes in all shapes,
sizes and colors. There are Japanese
Seiji bowls in green and yellow; there
are blue and white Canton ones that
remind us of Grandma's best dishes;
there are the most heavenly iridescent
blue ones imaginable — so blue that they
are green like the tear-bottles of the
ancients, to say nothing of a long list
of Grubes, both real and imitation.
These range from the ten-cent store
variety up to the cut-glass and silver
epergne; but nothing more beautifully
effective can be chosen than one of the
pure white china or plain colored re-
ceptacles. Many of these are inexpen-
sive and when complete are as strik-
ing as those that cost a small fortune.
It is all a matter of taste and color ef-
fect.
A pure white china "pond," for ex-
ample, arranged with Poeticus Nar-
cissi in a holder, as pictured, a few blos-
soms scattered carelessly about in the
water, is given a striking bit of color by
the yellow centered blossoms, the blue-
bird perched on the edge of the bowl, and
the brilliantly tinted blue, gold and
black butterfly poised over a clump of
the blossoms. Here, too, one gets the
effect of shadows, when the delicate
petals are reflected in the water. Hover-
ing at the base of the flower stems on
the holder are two bluebirds, placed with
their bills together. Could anything
be lovelier? The cost of this par-
aphernalia did not exceed one dollar.
Butterflies and china birds of all colors
and varieties are for sale in nearly
every general shop in the land since
this new arrangement of flowers first be-
gan to have a vogue. Our butterfly
and bird specimens may thus adorn^our
A SINGLE ROSE
flower gardens in miniature, instead of
reposing in dust-covered glass cases as
of yore. If we have no such specimens
(and who has not at least one or two?)
there are wood-flber butterflies painted
so cleverly that they resemble the
natural ones enough almost to defy de-
tection. These sell from ten cents up.
China birds are also in evidence in most
of the shops, and with a bit of plastico
or a daub of glue, preferabh^ the former,
the}^ may be poised in the most life-
like fashion wherever desired. Wax
water-lilies, too, in all colors are for sale
at twenty-five cents apiece, and one or
two of these, resting on their natural
104
AMERICAN COOKERY
MOTHER AND BABY BASKET
looking waxen green pads, add much to
a flower fountain. With goldfish at
five cents apiece, one may combine an
aquarium with this flower garden.
One of the loveliest arrangements
ever seen, which may offer a suggestion
to some one who would do likewise, was
that presented to a young mother. It
was similar to the one just described,
but instead of the two birds poised in
the clump of narcissi, there was a beau-
tiful white stork carrying a baby in his
yellow beak. Could any floral offer-
ing have given more pleasure? To be
sure flowers fade, but the receptacle
with its holder and the stork are last-
ing reminders of the giver, and ten
cents' worth of flowers a week will go
a long way toward making such a foun-
tain a perpetual joy. These storks are
difficult to find, so it would be well to
keep an eye out for one before it is
needed. A little hoard of such inexpen-
sive accessories will be found useful when
they are required at a moment's notice.
A Japanese store, and the basement of
most department shops are good places
for such miscellaneous shopping.
At a "Sweet Sixteen" birthday party
the decorations were white marguerite
daisies. The center table arrangement
was, therefore, very simple. An inex-
pensive imitation Giube receptacle was
supported by three grinning little Gods
of Luck. Surmounting the daisies, as
if just poised for flight, was a butter-
fly in real Brazilian colorings.
In Grandma's day we arranged our
daffy-down-dillies as primly as all the
rest of our flowers, frequently violat-
ing good taste and our innate sense of
the eternal fitness of things by using
them in mixed bouquets. No one would
think of doing so nowadays, any more
than we would wear seal rings on our
thumbs and forefingers, unless as re-
minders!
Glass receptacles set on a circular
table mirror are much used for these
blossoms, but nothing, to my notion, is
so lovely as a yellow receptacle. Such
a symphony in yellow was seen re-
cently. Oddly enough it proved to be a
plebian, bread mixing-bowl, late from the
culinary department of its respected
FOR "SWEET SIXTEEN" PARTY
ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
105
menage; but when the blossoms were
arranged loosely in the holder, their
slender green ribboned fronds reflect-
ing in the water over a yellow water-
lily and its pad, this particular floral
offering was a joy to be remembered
by its recipient. Aside from the ten-
cent flower holder and the twenty-five
cent water-lily, its cost was nothing.
Did you ever attend a Kewpie party?
If not, originate one at once. Since
meeting the mother of the Kewpies,
sweet, smiling Rose Harris O'Neill, the
Kewpie babies have given a new thrill
of joy to my heart. As a result, such
an affair was given in honor of a small
li;^e Kewpie, as a birthday celebration,^
also. There were Kewpie souvenirs,
to be sure, and in the center of the table
was a pink and white Kewpie baby tak-
ing a morning dip, presumably — in a
pink and white fountain, on the edge
of which perched a bluebird for hap-
piness. Indigo blue asters matched the
blue of his Kewpie and Birdship's eyes.
Kewpie cookies and candies, and other
Kewpie goodies made glad the hearts
of all the dear Kewpie kiddies present.
Floral baskets are sometimes desired
for some formal, special occasion — May
Day festivities, graduation, home and
church weddings, and as an offering to
a young mother, perhaps. In the ar-
rangement of such, there is a wide lat-
itude, but even so, it will be in sharp
contrast to the old-time basket of a few
years ago. Then, sweet alyssum and
a conglomeration of other flowers were
broken off close to their stems, after
which they were tightly wired to tooth-
picks. The life was thus squeezed out
of them to start with. By the aid of
these toothpicks, however, the floral
sprig was thrust into its bed of green
spagnum moss. There is the same
modus operandi today, but the effect is
quite different. The moss-lined basket
(if the flowers are to retain their pristine
freshness), toothpicks and wire, the lat-
ter wound rather loosely about the stem
in order not to cut it, result in an ar-
rangement that is superb. Roses, pan-
sies and lilies-of-the-valley blend es-
pecially well, when the latter tower their
waxen cups high above their sister
blooms.
There is a table arrangement used much
in Germany, which has now found its way
to America, though it is still by no means
common. The German frau calls it
"Lazy Susan," but it is entirelv differ-
ent from our product used for salt
and pepper shakers. Its only point of
similarity is the swivel upon which it
turns. The one which joys my heart is
of mahogany, and it turns automatically
at the slightest touch. It contains seven
china dishes, six of which are trapezoids,
the center one being octagonal. The
trapezoids fit about the center octagon,
forming a perfect whole.
In these seven dishes a whole meal is
sometimes served, on informal occasions,
and for afternoon tea, or even luncheon
affairs this particular accessory is most
useful and picturesque, as it provides
receptacles for the different edibles that
go with such a ceremony. The octagonal
dish in the center is just the right size
for a fiower holder, and when arranged
with daffodils, daisies or any tall flowers,
the tout ensemble is perfect. On one oc-
casion it held a half dozen Poeticus Nar-
cissi in graduated lengths. These hos-
pitably inclined their dainty heads and
green fronds over the different dish com-
partments — the pink and white pepper-
mints, maraschino-cherried chocolates,
green mints, robin's-egg blue pecans,
Japanese ginger, candied fruit, marsh-
mallows, macaroons, etc.
The "Lazy Susan" under discussion
has white china dishes with gold bands,
"but there are many shown in the depart-
ment stores and Japanese shops in other
ware, — blue and white, green and white,
and yellow. Such ^ treasure makes an
exceptionally useful and attractive
flower-holder, thus combining nearly
every feature of service.
A Double Professional
By Ladd Plumley
BROOK PEMBLETON was puz-
zled to the limit of puzzledom.
Was the woman opposite her
just right as to head? That is on the
inside. The outside, with its mass of
short curls, was hardly conventional —
and, yes, as Brook's clear eyes took in
a line of demarcation over the powdered
forehead, she was certain. Surely the
outside was a wig, and in its flaunting
way a most unpleasant wig.
**You see I want things a little — how
shall I explain? Different? Folks like
a change. Goodness knows, I don't
wonder! I've seen the time, if I could
have broken away from pots and pans
and got a change, I'd have done most
anything. That was a sight of time
ago — when Ezra was alive. Before
all this came," and the red pudgy hand,
glittering with a surplus of rings, swung
out, as Brook again glanced around
her at the amazing bizarreness of the
reception-room where she and Mrs.
Wallace sat. The principal eye-grabber
was a fire screen, a screen like a stained-
glass window, only instead of a St. Paul
or a Madonna was a color-screaming
parrot with a mighty bunch of purple
grapes in its gilded beak.
"I always have in my repertoire nice
old-fashioned things and two or three
of what can be called novelties," said
the girl.
*T ain't much on foreign tongues,"
remarked Mrs. Wallace, glancing doubt-
fully at Brook. The broad face was a
grotesque attempt to make a rough hon-
est countenance refined with the use of
powder and — if it must be acknowl-
edged — some rouge.
*'I mean," added the girl, "my pro-
gram includes both old-fashioned
things and some of the newest — classi-
cal and popular. ' '
"Seems to me they sometimes give it
another word — but this morning I
don't remember. Seems to me it's
something like what's in the Bible — •
what the Children of Israel ate in the
wilderness — you know — yes, manna!
I've always thought it must have been
awful slim eating — though it was food
as must have set light on the stomach
and might be good for folks traveling
in such heat and sand."
Brook was more puzzled than ever.
What had manna to do with a program
of songs for an afternoon reception?
Then it flashed to her mind what the
strange woman meant.
"Manna, manna!" said the girl. "I
see. You mean menu — though we
don't frequently use menu in just that
way."
"That's it!" exclaimed Mrs. Wallace,
flashing out the pudgy hands again.
"I knew it was something like manna.
That's the way I seen it in Chicago and
'Frisco hotels. But it don't matter.
Call it as you please so long as the folks
gets their fill and have a real nice time.
Make it old-fashioned or new-fangled
and I'll be satisfied — only if you ask me,
old-fashioned, says I."
At the agency in Boston, Brook had
been told that Mrs. Wallace was a
wealthy widow and that there would be
no difficulty in obtaining fair payment.
As yet, however, nothing had been said
concerning money. It would be best
to have an understanding.
"Then it is all arranged," said Brook,
"except — "
"Yes, yes," hastily interposed Mrs.
Wallace. "You mean the pay. Now
what do you professionals expect —
for just one day? You see, although I
live in a big house and all, I get along
mostly as I always have. With so
many poor folks and hospitals and
everything seems as if it ain't just right
106
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL
107
to indulge yourself — the way I see
some folks do. As I said, I don't know
about what professionals expect."
"I get as high as twenty-five dollars
for such an occasion," replied Brook.
"Not as often as I would like but that is
my charge. The agency — "-
"Seems like a big price," remarked
Mrs. Wallace. "Though it ain't as if
every little while I was giving such
doings. Still — twenty-five dollars!"
"If you feel that way, let us say
twenty," said Brook. "I shouldn't
want you to think I was overcharging
you. The agency — "
"Even twenty seems big," said Mrs.
Wallace . ' ' There 's lots of other expenses .'
And there are so many ways to use all
the money around loose — not alto-
gether on myself, you understand.
Goodness knows I've got heaps and
more of things that Ezra gave me
before he died; things I never expected
to have and heaps more than I can ever
use. But, after all, folks now-a-days
set a store by what you called it and
what some call the word like manna.
But — pshaw! I ain't much on bar-
gaining — not now-a-days. I wouldn't
like you and the agency to think that
I was beating you down — that ain't
my way. Fifty years from now it'll be
all the same. We'll settle it at twenty-
five. Though there was a time when
twenty-five would have carried Ezra
and me for a month. But I do think if
you go into a thing you ought to see
it through. We'll say twenty-five."
The matter of payment settled, a
parting as voluminous as everything
connected with the expansive lady of
the curly head and the great house took
place. A jangling call -bell was rung and
a maid appeared — the buxom and
pleasant girl who had showed Brook
into the reception room and now con-
ducted her toward the front door.
As Brook and the maid passed through
the hall the girl noticed three women
who were seated near the door. It was
easy to see that the three were servants,
perhaps applying for a position. The
looks they directed toward one another
were not friendly — they can be roughly
described as scowls fringed with venom.
Brook took her way to the railroad
station, and before her train for Boston
came in she again ran into the three
women. It would have been difficult
not to overhear the upbraidings of
Mrs. Wallace which the three exchanged.
The upbraidings were vigorous; they
were more than vigorous — they were
more venomous than the looks ex-
changed in Mrs. Wallace's hall. Some-
thing was vindictively thrown out about
the "cheek of the fat old curly-head,
who wanted a cook for just one night."
One of the others added, "Sure and she
wouldn't pay me more than the exact
fare for th' comin'! May she git her
fare to purgatory — and may I be there
to see! 'Tis the sudden-rich as stirs
me. A job at cooking' for th' space
av one day! Whin we all shows our
testimonials, we're informed she's en-
gaged our superior. I ask ye, would it
be stirrin' ye to the gizzard? I ask ye?"
She stared at the singer as if Brook
could answer the question.
The girl was amused by this exchange
of vituperations on the part of the three
unsuccessful applicants. The full ap-
preciation, however, of the humor of
the situation did not come to her until
the afternoon of the engagement.
Meantime, when an idle moment came
in the midst of her rounds of teaching,
the girl's mind turned in the direction of
the great house, with its bewigged lady
of strange confusion of speech, her flash-
ing, pudgy hands, her broad face —
disfigured but honest face, — and the
coming reception, where the singer had
promised both old-fashioned things and
novelties to one who confused a musical
program with the light nourishment of
the Children of Israel in the sands and
heat of the desert.
The reception was to be at four
o'clock, to be followed, as Mrs. Wallace
had explained, by "the dinner at seven,"
108
AMERICAN COOKERY
The lady had added, "Seems like a late
time for meat food — and it must set
heavy on the stomach. Still, if folks
are used to it, maybe it ain't more harm-
ful than eating pie for breakfast —
though as for me, give me my dinner at
noon!"
If the reception was fixed for four
o'clock, considered Brook, and the
dinner at seven, she could certainly plan
to return to Boston by six or thereabouts.
It was really important that, on that
day, Brook should get back to Boston
early in the evening. This was not a
professional reason. On that evening
she had promised to answer a question
that some girls never have an opportun-
ity to answer at all, and that to any girl
must seem a rather exciting question.
For Brook the question was hardly as
exciting as it must be generally. She
had known the man, Clarence Cobb,
ever since her earliest girlhood. Since
he had moved to New York they had
corresponded, and with much regularity.
He was now coming to receive Brook's
answer to the question that the girl for
some time had seen was inevitable,
although she would have much pre-
ferred it should be delayed or, perhaps,
not asked at all.
Are girls sometimes sure until they
answer the **yes" or ''no" what the
answer will be? For one, I doubt it.
At all events, in Brook's case, the an-
swer in her mind was sometimes "yes"
and frequently "no." Yet the girl
was not generally indecisive. To earn
your living in teaching singing, however,
with an all-too-infrequent concert or
reception, was work of the hardest.
And Clarence Cobb, while not wealthy,
offered a share in a pleasingly large
professional income. Did she really
love him? He was a man that any girl
would be proud to have for a husband,
if she loved him. Did she? Sometimes
she felt so harried and confused that she
could have almost pitched a coin,
Clarence "heads" and music lessons
a toilsome "tails," and let it go at that.
As the afternoon and evening of Mrs.
Wallace's reception came nearer and
nearer. Brook's mind — and perhaps her
heart — simulated the beam of an old-
fashioned scale, with "no" and "yes"
in the respective pans. It seemed to
the distracted girl that a mote on one
side or the other would determine which
way the scale would tremble to its
decision.
I am inclined to throw in the remark
that, if "matches are made in heaven",
there must be times when the angel-
craftsman of the chains must hold his
hammer suspended in mid-air, in-
decisively, before he forges into place the
final link. Indeed, there may be times
when even as the hammer descends it
shatters into fragments the link which
the second before the intention was to
rivet into place.
On the afternoon designated, it was
with hopes that the fluttering indeci-
sion of her heart would affect the vocal
chords, that Brook took the suburban
train to the town of Mrs. Wallace's
reception. She was very early. With
all the garishness of the house, she had
doubts of the grand piano; the piano
she had glanced at with misgiving — a
piano of gilt with absurd bronze cupids
fluttering up its massive legs.
She had no accompanist and she
wished to familiarize herself with the
tone of the cupid monstrosity, as well
as test the spaces in the great rooms
which she must fill with her voice. She
took a cab at the station, gained the big
house and the entrance.
"Mrs. Wallace says you're to go
around to the kitchen door," said the
buxom maid.
Thinking that the house was in an
upheaval and the front hall perhaps
temporarily blocked. Brook followed the
directions of the maid and presented
herself at a back entrance, where a stout
heavy-featured woman admitted her.
With curious eyes the woman stared
at the girl. "You can leave your things
in that room," she said, pointing into a
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL
109
room which was evidently a servants'
sitting room and which adjoined a hall-
way that opened into a great kitchen.
"Mrs. Wallace will be here in a mo-'
ment," continued the woman, still eyeing
the girl with staring eyes. ''She's been
mighty nervous about your showing
up. Though I said that these here
professionals' have things down to a fine
point and you would be here in lots of
time. Still, seems to me the big turkey
ought to go in before very long — though,
of course, — I ain't a professional."
Very much puzzled. Brook laid aside
her hat and wraps. She retained her
music roll. The woman hastened away
and a moment later was heard giving to
her mistress the news that ''the profes-
sional, ma'am, has come, just as I said
she would."
A few minutes later, Mrs. Wallace
hastened to where Brook was standing,
the lady's broad face very good-natured
but red and strained with anxiety.
"My goodness!" exclaimed Mrs. Wal-
lace. "You did give me an awful scare!
I thought you'd never come. But I
suppose, being as your're a professional,
you know your business."
Brook attempted to put in a question,
but Mrs. Wallace's excited voice con-
tinued. You'll have to get an apron to
cover up that dress — • it's plain as can be,
but any one can see it becomes you aw-
ful nice. I suppose that roll in your
hand is a part of what you call your
program. You'll find the one I thought
out on the table under the window. It
isn't much like them folks ate in the
desert — guess they'd have left their
manna, if they'd had a good fat fourteen-
pound turkey. Then there's a mighty
nice kind of mince meat — it's a receipt
of Cousin Jane's — and there's some
mushrooms, although for myself I don't
risk toadstools — not I. But there's
them who set a store by mushrooms —
and I do want everything just as nice as
can be. And, of course, there's nearly
every kind of vegetables, and I took a
sort of liberty. Ezra always said my
pumpkin pie was something extra. I
made the pie yesterday — thought that
even a professional would be glad of the
help. And—'*
"What in the world!" broke in the
astonished girl, now certain that her
former suspicions of the interior of the
curl-bedecked head was correct. "I
don't — I can't understand. I came
early so that I could try the tone of your
piano — I often find it important."
"Piano!" gasped Mrs. Wallace, press-
ing the glittering hands to what was now
a really distracted head.
"To be sure," said Brook. "Didn't
you engage me to sing at your recep-
tion?"
"To sing!" exclaimed Mrs. Wallace.
The words told of infinite confusion of
mind.
"I must get right away," thought
Brook. "After coming way out here
and giving up an afternoon it will be
hard to lose my pay — but I m_ust make
an excuse and get out of this house. At
any moment the madness of that woman
may take a dangerous turn."
With her hands pressed to her head,
Mrs. Wallace gazed at Brook, lowering
her gaze to take in the girl's gown and
the music roll. Suddenly she sank into
a chair, her puzzled face comically chang-
ing from stupefaction to wrinkles of
laughter.
"Oh, dear, oh, dear!" she cried, as she
wiped her eyes with the beflowered
gown which she lifted, her voice muffled
with her chokings. "If I'd had the eyes
of a clam I might have seen it. But I
thought professional cooks were all like
that — though, my dear, I did think
you were much too pretty to potter with
pots and pans!"
"Cooks?" asked Brook. But with
the word a sudden illumination as to the
supposed madness of Mrs. Wallace al-
most choked her own voice. "So you
thought I was a professional cook?
That was the reason why those women
at the station looked daggers at me!"
(Continued in October)
Work and Wages vs. Years
By Alice Whitaker
IF a woman over fifty years of age
loses her home and finds it im-
perative to earn her living, it becomes
not so much a question of what she
would like to do as what the world
needs. Hence she is likely to criticise
the labor market, for as a rule the middle-
aged woman has been a jack-at-all-
trades. She Ijas worked for her family
faithfully with an eye to saving a penny
by making a dress, trimming a hat or
making the boys' blouses. She has
cooked and served, and not hesitated to
stand an hour or two at the ironing
table. She has upholstered a chair,
written items about her church and
club for the local paper, and, perhaps,
made out bills and reports to help her
husband in his work at the end of the
month.
It is painfully true that after their
accustomed tasks are gone and friends
and kin have fallen by the way, women
of advanced years may "close ranks",
but they often find it difficult to keep
step. One who says *'I can turn my
hand at anything" is sometimes sur-
prised to learn that her versatility is a
drawback to securing a situation. Those
who specialize are apt to monopolize
most kinds of work, so it follows that
every woman, as the years go by, should
give careful attention to what she can
do best and lose no opportunity to
gain a little more information and
practice in that particular line.
When considering what to do, it is a
good plan to study advertisements in
a large daily paper and note the number
of women who wish to be * 'companions
with no objection to traveling," or want
literary or musical positions or anything
that is not manual labor. Turning to
the requests for workers, the inference is
plain that the necessities of life rank
first. Most fascinating tales are told
in print of how women are making
money in novel and pleasant ways, yet
little is said of the hard work and per-
severance required to bring about
success. Sometimes a paying venture is
short-lived, because imitators spring up
or because the demand, once supplied,
is never renewed.
The woman in the country is far
better off than in the city, where the
genteel poor are too numerous to at-
tract interest and where competition is
so keen. But wherever located the best
thing for a women of advanced years
seems to be the acceptance of the first
respectable work offered, if within her
strength, lest it be all that comes in
her way. Although one might prefer
to make pin-cushions for the ladies'
exchange, it is more to the point to make
pies and fishballs for the hungry.
Canvassing may seem alluring, but to
all except the very strong it is physically
wearing, to say nothing of the mental
and nervous strain of being refused a
hearing where preceding door-to-door
solicitors have already tried the house-
wife's patience and taken her time.
Resident manager of an apartment
house is a city position that will give
shelter in return for showing apartments,
collecting rents and seeing that the
premises are cared for properly by the
janitor. This work requires tact and
some business sense, but as it does not
employ all the hours of a day there is a
chance to supplement the income by
sewing, for instance.
Once in a while a little shop with
living-room attached may be found in a
locality where a small business can be
done in dry goods and notions or a news-
stand opened, if there are ways to
secure stock with little capital. This
sort of work comes quite naturally to
many women who enjoy the coming and
110
WORK AND WAGES VS YEARS
111
going of patrons and the minor interests
that take them away from their own
thoughts and regrets.
Now and then, there is an opportunity
as working housekeeper for a group of
teachers or women, employed during the
day, who yet prefer having a home of
their own to boarding. In such- cases the
pay may not be large outside of food
and room, because the cleaning and
laundry will usually have to be paid for
in addition. Such a position is often
a most congenial one.
If a woman of even seventy years is
gifted with a faculty for turning off
fine hand sewing, and has good sight to
do it, there is some call for her work,
but she must keep everlastingly at it to
get a dollar a day. If she can supple-
ment a trained nurse, she may pick up a
case here and there ; if she can cook well
and is willing to go into another's
kitchen, she will soon find a place, but
is not likely to have strength to do the
work required of women in regular
domestic employment. Therefore, in all
but exceptional cases her wages will be
small in addition to the home furnished.
If an employer is younger than her-
self, it is sometimes irritating to submit
to orders which savor of inexperience,
and yet the younger person may be
more in touch with present-day condi-
tions. It is better to wait the time for
asserting individual opinion until some
emergency rises.
Reviewing all the kinds of work open
to the woman of advanced years, there is
little that brings over a dollar a day.
If she can get room rent included, or
part of her meals where she works, the
dollar-a-day job will keep her going,
but if she must pay ever so small
room rent and do light housekeeping,
it means shortened life from the con-
stant strain.
One of the most important things
to be remembered by the woman seek-
ing work is that she has reached the
time to put false pride in her pocket,
also to keep her own story of trial and
sorrow to herself. Others of her own
age have had their share of trouble and
disappointments and the young will not
escape. Dwelling on the past is certain
to prejudice an employer adversely.
Nature's Appeal!
Lowering clouds like bold battalion
Spread o'er nature's forest realm,
And a stifling, deathly silence
Man and beast alike o'erwhelm,
Casting mystic, lurid shadows
Of the monarchs, stem and grim,
Not a rustle 'mongst their branches,
Not the swaying of a limb!
Beats the rain on rocking branches
With unceasing, rapid patter,
Each drop vying, charging, scurrying
Like a squadron's horsehoof clatter,
'Till the trees, distorted, shaken
With the fury of the rain,
'Neath the wild torrential fury
Creak and quiver as in pain!
Of a sudden comes a murmur
As from out the mountain side—
Treetops bend and sway and stagger.
Mockingly the winds preside; —
And the murmur, loud and louder
Marches on in angry glee.
Boding waste and desolation
Far as human eye can see!
Thunder shakes the terra firma,
Lightnings blur the angry sky,
Nature trembles from exertion
And the terror stricken cry:
"God have mercy! Spare and pardon,
Henceforth doubt shall never win.
Life shall have a sacred meaning,
Faith and works replace each sin!"
Caroline Louise Sumner.
Weather to Order
By Helen Forrest
CHICKEN salad and lettuce sand-
wiches.
Olives.
Fozen pudding,
Fruit punch in big bowl kept filled.
Make salad and sandwiches early.
Frozen pudding from confectioners.
Have everything ice-cold.
Awaiting further orders,
We are
Very truly yours — ' '
Anna Sayre gazed blankly at what
she had written, then burst into a ring-
ing peal of laughter that caused her
little maid in the brand-new kitchen to
smile sympathetically into the dish pan.
"Just as funny a mix-up as this divert-
ing transition of mine," and for lack of
a more comprehending audience Mrs.
Sayre addressed her shinii;ig wedding
ring:
*'Here am I, for six years a business
woman, precipitated, in my twenty-
eighth year, into the social zone, making
out a warm-day menu for a lot of frilly,
bridge-playing guests, and from sheer
force of habit I've done my work in
shorthand and closed it with the
customary valediction of my late place
of business."
The trim lines of curves and dashes
were displeasing to Anna Sayre, late
stenographer and typewriter, — they
did not belong on her new mono-
grammed paper ; they should not rest on
her highly polished little mahogany desk
where her forsaken Remington could
have found no room.
Trim and erect was the figure of the
bride, clear and direct the gaze of her
dark eyes out through the open window
resting lightly on her bed of nodding
daffodils, to the quiet, well-kept sub-
urban street so blissfully free from the
din of traffic.
Ten weeks ago today she had closed
her desk in the private office of the big
firm in town, closing, with it, the six
years of her career as a business woman.
Out on the Old Church Road, a few
blocks from this new home of hers, was
the house where her girlhood was spent,
where her father's death had left her
surprised and terrified in her grief by the
fact that she must earn her own living.
With her father and home suddenly
gone, out of the care-free rush of her
debutante year, away from her girl
friends, away from Billy, into a school to
learn shorthand and stenography.
And she had made good in that
matter-of-fact world; she was glad to
remember that, before Billy had brought
her back to her home town into the old
set. It was Billy, who had never lost
track of her, Billy, who had given her
these ten best weeks of her life. , Billy —
bless him! whose hat was on the rack in
the hall, whose stick was in the umbrella
stand, whose pipe was on the table —
Billy, who had brought her home.
It was good of the girls to take her
right back into the Club from which she
had shakily resigned seven years before,
and how natural it seemed to be planning
to entertain them. Had those years set
her apart from those friends of her girl-
hood, whose ways had lain only in the
trodden paths of society? Surely, she
was richer for her experience and no one
of them could guess her joy in her home,
since no one of them had been homeless.
They could not know her happiness in
belonging to some one, for they had never
been alone. And how those years of
economical living were helping her now
in bridging the distance from the un-
wisely lavish life of her girlhood home to
the modest menage of her new abode.
There was positive inspiration in the
fact that here was work for hands as well
as head.
112
WEATHER TO ORDER
113
And now, for Billy's sake and her own,
there must be no lack in the club meet-
ing for tomorrow. "Two eats and a
drink' ' — she had observed since her
return, that the rule was, as ever, liber-
ally construed in the club refreshments.
Strict business rules did not obtain here.
The early May weather felt like July.
How hot the office in town must be, and
her ice-cold refreshments would surely
be popular.
And now her business training was
again to the front as she made out the
schedule for her social tomorrow :
9 to 11.
Prepare refreshments.
Bone chickens, already cooked. Mix
salad according to recipe.
Make mayonnaise.
Make lettuce sandwiches and wrap
in damp cloth.
11 to 12.
Make the house pretty and arrange
tables. Get out china.
12 to 12:30.
Early luncheon.
12:30 to 1:00.
Be lazy.
1 : to 2 :30
Mayonnaise on salad.
Olives and fruit-punch, chilling before
final ice.
Get dressed.
The last item was pleasing, for her
carefully chosen trousseau frocks had
been really satisfying.
The business side of her nature being
attended to by the orderly plan, the
feminine in her relaxed in pure enioy-
ment of the warm spring wind, and in
the still novel fact of leisure.
"Eleven o'clock!" she smiled, "and not
a blessed thing that I have to do until I
choose to be busy. Thank goodness,
my party tomorrow is planned beyond
chance of mishap!"
But alas for Anna's hopes!
"The best laid plans of mice and men
Gang aft agley."
A chilling east wind had swept in from
the ocean during the night, a dishearten-
ing rain beat upon the windows as the
hostess waked to the day of her party.
Ruefully she looked from the dripping
windows, which were to have been
widely opened to the spring air, then
gasped audibly over the coffee pot,
having then reached the breakfast table,
at the thought of her refreshments.
"My dear girl! What in the world is
the matter?" her Billy exclaimed in
genuine alarm.
"Just the eats!" she answered with a
touch of school-slang. "My first party
is tottering on its throne! You see, my
husband, I reckoned unwisely that the
too warm weather of the past week was
to continue. Now see what happens;
imagine salad, frozen pudding, fruit-
punch — all cold as ice on a day when
every one will be shivering at the
sudden change of the weather!"
"Change your order; that's easy,"
said her lord and master; "give 'em
something hot — anything will do.
They're coming to play cards, anyway,
and not for lunch."
"How can I change?" Inherdilemma,
she ignored his idea that a card club met
only to play cards; "all this chicken was
cooked yesterday. I have quantities of
lettuce for sandwiches, and I ordered
my frozen pudding from the confectioner
days ago. I shouldn't care so much, if
I w^ere not anxious to prove to the girls
that my years out of all this haven't
made me forget how to do things right."
The wedding-present clock in the
living-room struck the half hour, and her
commuter husband, with a hasty good-
bye kiss, rushed for his coat and hat.
Stopping at the open door, in the face of
the rain, he flung back a word of cheer.
"Make a fresh deal in your food and
get what you w^ant; the damage is to
me," and he was off.
Over the remnants of the breakfast,
Anna faced her demoralized plans.
"Cream the chicken in patty shells!
No, it doesn't match the rest! Change
the whole plan as Billy suggested ? ' ' Her
economic soul denied the right to waste
114
AMERICAN COOKERY
her carefully provided materials, the
lettuce-hearts, the expensive new-laid
eggs, the very strawberries that were
to float rosily in the punch.
"Nine o'clock, my schedule is on,"
and she walked resolutely into the
living-room in search of her day's plan
of action.
"Shall I lay a little fire in the grate,
ma'am, or would you have a little blaze
in the furnace? Sure it's cold." The
caressing voice of her maid broke in on
her revery.
The oracle had spoken.
"If the mountain won't come to
Mohamet, Mohamet must go to the
mountain. Thank you, Mary;" the
bride smiled gayly on her puzzled
domestic. "By all means, a good fire
in the furnace and lay fires in both fire-
places — we'll light them before three
o'clock. And now for the kitchen. ' '
The Thursday Afternoon Bridge Club
prides itself on being prompt. At three
o'clock Anna was welcoming to her
pretty new home "the girls" to whom
she had returned after her little journey
into the busy world.
A cheerful warmth met her guests;
bright fires burned in the fireplaces and
content reigned in the heart of the
hostess, pink of cheek and bright of eye,
in her new spring gown. What mat-
tered the weather ? Cold wind and rain
might do their worst, outside, within was
summer heat. The house was a trifle
overheated, perhaps, but how very
popular was the great cut-glass punch
bowl in the hall, where lemon and pine-
apple juice mingled with the acid of the
fresh strawberries made so refreshing a
cold drink.
"What lovely eats, Anna!" — "I'll be
afraid to entertain you, you extravagant
child!" "How good everything tastes!"
and thus ran the enthusiastic comments
through the cool chicken salad, the crisp
lettuce sandwiches, the olives from their
bed of clinking ice, down to the last
grateful bit of frozen pudding.
"How did you manage?" Billy Sayre
divested himself of his moist raincoat
before he presumed to approach his
radiant wife; "you've been on my mind
all day; but if ever I saw a girl who didn't
look as if she needed sympathy — " he
was in the bright room now and his
words ended abruptly.
"Why, Billy, you poor boy," she
answered, "did you worry? If her
friends may be believed, your wife
covered herself and you with glory. I
had my cold eats just as I had planned,
and since I couldn't very well change
them to suit the weather, I changed the
weather to suit them. Believe me, Billy,
whatever the weather outside, it was
summer here. Thanks to furnace and
open flres the house was so thoroughly
heated that my ice-cold food and drink
was exactly what everybody wanted.
And now that the party is over we'll
open some of the windows and cool
things off a little. I've saved some
samples of everything to add to your
dinner, but you won't have more than
a bite of the club lunch, Billy, for they
loved it and ate up nearly every bit."
August
Earth sleeps beneath the torrid sun,
And brazen heavens bend above.
Even the robins, one by one,
Have hushed their Springtime songs of love
And every flower with drooping head
Bends listless, in the garden bed.
Then darkness falls, a spirit kind,
And soft winds blow through parching trees;
The stars shine down like gems, new mined,
And dews lie sweet upon the leas.
And every blossom lifts her head
In meadow plot and garden bed.
L. M. Thornton.
Phyllis Provides
By Aldis Dunbar
YOU'VE read Tlashers Mead,'
haven't you?" asked my pretty
young cousin abruptly. "That
new story by Compton Mackenzie?"
As the question popped out in the
middle of an absorbing discussion of the
relative prices of sheet-and-curtain
materials for her new nest, I looked up
at Phyllis in surprise.
"Why, yes. But why?"
"Because it just came over me that,
when it comes to furnishing my kitchen
and the shelves of my pantry, I'll be
like the dreamy young poet in the story,
who took a house in the country so he
could write his poems there, and was so
puzzled about pots and pans that he
went to an auction in the neighborhood
and bought the entire contents of some-
body else's kitchen, to be on the safe
side. There were so many enormous
dish-covers that he hid them in the
spare bedroom, to get them out of the
way. Of course, Granny taught me to
cook, but in her dear old kitchen, as well
as in every other one I've ever been in,
there seemed so many things that I
wouldn't need, when Jack and I are just
beginning. And the lists in cook-books,
meant to help, don't have any meaning
to me, when I read them over. Why,
at home in Granny's kitchen were pans
and kettles and things, tucked away at
the back of cupboards and shelves, that
she hardly ever used. But she never
discarded them."
I laughed.. "Almost every house-
keeper of long experience has one or
more 'fetiches' like those. My mother's
first housekeeping was in a tiny fur-
nished cottage just vacated by the
owners, who had prospered and built a
larger home for themselves. One day
Mrs. S. came flying in, begging for
her especial iron sponge-cake pan.
They hunted for it together, and to
Mother's consternation, it proved to be
the old one she had taken to use as
drip-pan under the refrigerator! It
was half-full of melted ice, and rusty
around the edges; but Mrs. S. seized it
with joy, and wouldn't hear of Mother's
buying her a new one, in place of it.
She declared that, rust or no rust, no
other pan could give the perfect result,
and she bought Mother a new drip-pan,
instead!"
"Well," Phyllis told me, "a young
couple Jack knew boasted that they
moved into a perfectly empty flat, and
bought each single thing as they needed
it. And they had to cook their first
beefsteak on a new tin dustpan, because
the stores were closed when that need
presented itself! Now, isn't there some
more practical way of deciding before-
hand what is really necessary to begin
with, — both in the way of kitchen
ware and of the staple provisions for our
^ first stocking of the pantry?"
"Why, yes," I said. "Pencil, paper,
and a good clear imagination will solve
the question as well as any expert could
do it for you, if you use them with
brains."
"And the cook-book lists, and the
hardware and grocery catalogues?"
questioned my little bride-to-be, as she
cleared a space for writing materials on
the table and looked up -expectantly.
I shook my head. "Not when one
knows already how to cook, as you do.
We'll simply follow the example of
Jack's friends, and move in off-hand.
Here we are in your new home-kitchen.
It's bright and sunny, and it's new, but
it needs just a trifle of cleaning. Set to
work, Phil. What do you need for
getting it spandy neat?"
"Broom, dustpan and brush, scrub-
bing brush, cleaning-cloths, soap, scour-
ing powder," she began, her pencil flying.
"And what do you do the washing
witkV I inquired.
15
116
AMERICAN COOKERY
She looked puzzled. "Why — with
water! Oh, I see! I want a pail!"
"Precisely. And a soap-dish, to hang
above the sink. Don't you find the sun
pretty strong?"
"Shades, — good washable ones!" was
her terse reply.
"Exactly. Now that we're clean,
you can take your time deciding on floor
covering. Table and two chairs you
have. At present, you are going to get
your first breakfast. What will it be?
Phyllis 's cheeks grew very pink, but
she went at the menu very seriously.
"Coffee, quick biscuit — as there
wouldn't have been time for me to have
set and baked bread or rolls so early in
the day, — cereal, bacon and omelet or
poached eggs! Will that do?"
I nodded. "Light the fire first."
"So I do! Coal, kindling, matches,
shovel, scuttle, lid-lifter ; brush and black-
ing and mitten to use when I clean it."
"Well done!" I applauded. "What
will you need for making coffee?"
"Mocha and Java mixed, mill to
grind it, cup and spoon for the measur-
ing, coffee-pot, egg for settling, and — ^I
didn't forget — a big white enamelled
tea-kettle, just come to boil."
"And for the cereal?"
"Little agate-ware milk-boiler with
double copper bottom, like Granny's, to
make it in ; cereal itself, salt and a spoon
to stir it with."
"Biscuit next."
"Flour, shortening, baking-powder,
salt, milk, and a pinch of sugar."
"Make them and show me!" I
ordered.
"Yes'm!" She set to work in panto-
mime. "Mixing-bowl, flour-bin, sifter,
baking-board, baking-pan, rolling-pin,
biscuit cutter, another big spoon (I
greased the pan before I began, Cousin
Vin), holder to take the pan from the
oven when the biscuits are golden brown
and puffy. Butter to eat with them,
and perhaps — honey!"
"Next!"
"Pan for bacon, knife to trim it with,
little board to trim it on. Saucepan for
poaching eggs, skimmer to take them
out. Perhaps I'll have a regular egg-
poacher, but I won't need it, at first.
If I make omelet instead, I'll want a cup
for breaking eggs — I'd want it anyway,
wouldn't I? — and another bowl, and
an egg-beater or a fork. Oh, and a dust
of black pepper. I said salt, before."
"And you already have china and
linen and silver. But how about clear-
ing up, after breakfast?"
"A tray. Mum, and a big dishpan, —
mop and brushes and soap-shaker, —
better make it two trays, — a wire
drainer and plenty of hot water and
clean towels."
"You see the idea, then?" I asked.
Phyllis nodded. "And I'll cook the
meals for a week — on paper — to be
sure that I don't leave out anything.
Why, any one could make out their
necessary lists that way, Cousin Vin."
"Any- one — who could cook — with
brains!" I amended.
Simplified Bungalow Life
By Anna B. Classon
SUMMER vacationing has under-
gone a radical change within the
past few years. Summer hotel
life, with its stereotyped pastimes of
boating, fishing, porch gossip and hand
embroidery, has given place to the
larger freedom of all sorts of country
home life, individually chosen and
individually maintained. In response
to this "New Thought" in vacationing,
the bungalow has sprung up far and
near, with its corner stone of simple
life and its troop of week-end visitors.
But, withal, we have not progressed
SIMPLIFIED BUNGALOW LIFE
117
beyond the truism voiced by Bulwer
that ''civilized mail cannot Hve without
cooks," so we still have the troublesome
problem of food. Now, genuine bunga-
low life with a corps of servants is as
impossible as it is absurd. Here, if
anywhere, is a sanctum where the elect
should dwell together in harmony and
where each should have a part. But —
three meals a day — seven days in a
week — four weeks and a bit more in
the summer months, making a grand
total of one hundred and two meals in
July and August! Approached math-
ematically this is appalling and cal-
culated to strike terror to the heart of
the most ardent vacationist, but ap-
proached in the true holiday spirit
there surely is a way out. But how shall
we manage it? Co-operation is the
passport from beginning to end, my
dear. "No drones in this hive" might
well be placed over the door, and
voluntary help expected from family
and friends. It takes a bit of the
genius of discrimination, at first, to in-
vite the right sort of guests, if there are
to be guests, but one or two misfits will
educate wonderfully.
It might sound very alluring to start
out with the intention of doing the
family cooking in an iron kettle hung
on a crane over the open fire, but put
such a temptation far behind you, as
it is full of pitfalls. Spend your en-
thusiasm in that direction by now and
then roasting a meal of potatoes in the
hot ashes on the hearth of a rainy day.
Remember that light housekeeping does
not always fit heavy and healthy ap-
petites. It is, therefore, well to equip a
bungalow with enough kitchen machin-
ery to do the average cooking of the
average family in the quickest and
easiest way. Beyond this avoid all
"frills," for unnecessary utensils are a
nuisance. An up-to-date oil stove with
several burners and a portable oven is
a necessity to do comfortable cooking,
even where the family is very small.
To prove this positively try preparing
a hot soup and a cup of tea over a one-
burner stove, of a chilly summer even-
ing, and see how persistently the one
gets cold while the other gets hot!
No matter if the baker comes to
your door twice a day, possess yourself
of an oven. A multitude of nice, easy
dishes can be prepared with its help,
and, ah! the surprise of, now and then, a
homemade pie coming from its depths.
By no means let the pie be taken for
granted and come trooping in at the
end of a heavy meal, where it illy
belongs, but rather elect it to be the
honored dish at a simple meal, and it
goes without the saying, that as such it
must be par excellence.
A fireless cooker, one of the many
improved sort, is a great saver of time
and money and belongs to bungalow
life. Remember, however, since it is
"fireless", it presupposes some other
fire apparatus. It has a broad scope,
but like the rest of us it has its limita-
tions.
A chafing dish, screened from draughts,
is convenient. By its use and a few
deft strokes a hot meal can be served
impromptu in living room or porch,
transforming the often questionable
porch supper into a grateful feast.
Many people with treacherous digestions
find it difficult to manage an entire meal
of cold food even in summer.
Possessed of these three cooking
appliances you have a right to com-
mand success with minimum of labor,
and if you have what the New England
woman calls "gumption", you will get it.
If there is an ice supply at hand, an
easy working ice cream freezer will do
its part almost as magically as the
"fireless" in preparing acceptable dishes.
Remember, however, in the choice of
one, that a small amount of cream may
be frozen in a medium-sized can, but
that the order can never be reversed,
therefore it is well to get an extra pint
or quart capacity for the unexpected.
Now for the preparation of these
(Continued on page 158)
118
AMERICAN COOKERY
AMERICAN COOKERY
FORMERLY THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE
OF
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics
Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year
TO SUBSCRIBERS
The date stamped on the wrapper is the date
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renev/al
of the same, has been received.
Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
enclosed for this purpose.
In sending notice to renew a subscription or
change of address, please give the old address
as well as the new.
In referring to an original entry, we must know
the name as it was formerly given, together with
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box,
or Street Number.
Statement of ownership and manageme^it as required by
the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912^
Editor: Janet M. Hill
Business Manager's: R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill
Owners :
B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill
221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
published ten times a year by
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter.
Face the Sunshine
Oh, turn and face the sunshine, brother,
Look, the sky is aglov^
Jevi^elled with ruby and amethyst
Ablaze on a field of snow.
The day is fair before you,
Its promise ever new.
If you keep the joy of the sunrise
Ashine in the heart of you.
Oh, turn and face the sunrise, brother,
Look, there's a bird's light wing
Mounting straight to the far blue Heaven,
A joyous caroling thing.
Greet the new day, my brother,
With courage fine and strong.
And the glorious chant of a day well spent
Shall be your evening song.
Christine Kerr Davis.
VOLUME TWENTY-ONE
OUR attention, just now, is called to
the fact that we are renewing no
inconsiderable number of subscriptions
for the twenty-first time. This means
that we have on our list the names of
subscribers who have taken the maga-
zine from its first issue in June 1896 to
the present time. Many of these, no
doubt, have in their possession twenty
volumes of a culinary publication, each
volume of which holds a complete
index of its contents. Twenty volumes
on a single book-shelf — a treatise on
domestic science — a work of reference
of no secondary importance and value.
We are not aware that any other period-
ical of like class and character can be
found in America. Certainly here is a
record somewhat worthy of pride and
sentiment.
In two decades "American Cookery"
has never sought after or advocated
"fads" in cookery; nor has it boasted of
any standardization of foods. At the
same time, however, it has ever aimed
to be progressive in conduct and helpful
to housekeepers everywhere, confidently
feeling that nothing was too good to set
before its readers and patrons. The
special feature of this magazine is its
reliability and entirety of interest.
COMMENCEMENT EXERCISES
IN June the graduating classes from
all our schools and colleges were very
large. The baccalaureate sermons and
discourses on this occasion were filled
with excellent advice and encourage-
ment to young graduates.
At Smith College, Northampton,
Mass., Governor Whitman of New York
delivered the commencement address to
a class of 331 young women.
Among other good things, he said:
"You have come upon the stage of
life when progress has demolished every
barrier raised by tradition to prevent
woman's full and free expression of her
hopes, her ideals and her aspirations.
EDITORIALS
119
"The fight for equal rights with men
should not mean that women are to
act like men. The masculinization of
women is as vicious in its consequence
as would be the feminization of men.
What has been fought for is the right of
women to be human beings, and as such
to have the power to give the -best that is
in them, just as it has been the right of
man to show forth the best that is in
him."
Touching on the national situation and
the world war, Governor Whitman said :
''Preparedness is the dominant word
in our country today. I think I make
no mistake in declaring that the voice of
the people is lifted in favor of some
sound plan of national defence that will
guard us alike against armed invasion
or unbearable aggression.
*T am well aware that women in-
stinctively recoil from war and all that
pertains to war. It must be borne in
mind, however, that there is a death of
the spirit that is more to be dreaded
than the death of the body, and that
life itself may be bought at a price that
will make living a poor and dreadful
thing. The glorious pages of his-
tory are reserved for those who have
died that great principles might live.
''These are the shining truths that the
women of today are asked to consider
and accept. It is not meant that
women should give over their abhorrence
of wanton and brutal killing, but it is
meant that they must not put mere ex-
istence above the tremendous import-
ance that gives existence its value.
"As a matter of fact, however, the
horror in which war is held by women
may prove the wise and necessary bal-
ance that the occasion demands.
Women are peculiarly fitted to insist
upon the maintenance of the sane me-
dium between the extremes of pacifism
and militarism.
"There is no room in this world for
the do-nothingness of pacifism. We
must have war and we must have fight-
ing and we must have courage.
"Preparedness must be social as well
as military, and not the least of the tasks
of America today is to take stock and
find out where the people stand with
reference to themselves."
Since the first college for women
was established in the land, the process
of events has been swift, indeed."
DRUDGERY — A MEDITATION
ONE day I quoted glibly, "I have
the soul of a servant;" that was
after a week's absorption in house-
cleaning. Then I paused and thought:
"I have not the 'soul of a seryant,'
in the sense in which Shaw meant the
word to be understood, or I should not
have used the quotation." He uses the
word servant in its definition of one in a
state of subjection or bondage to the
will or command of another. Therefore,
one who can be made to do the menial,
or mean, tasks of the household.
For so many ages the menial tasks
have been done by those "in a state of
subjection or bondage" that we have
come to think of such tasks as symbolic
of bondage; hence that they are drudg-
ery and not worthy to be given atten-
tion or time by any but the unambitious
and ignorant, or those who have had no
opportunity for better things.
When one gives the word servant
its other definition, "One who serves,"
all idea of bondage may be removed and
the so-called lowly tasks may be done
without the sense of drudgery. A
physician sterilizes his instruments that
he may get them in the best possible con-
dition to aid him in being of service to
humanity. He does not feel that he is
doing the menial task of dishwashing
and that he is not being given an
opportunity for the best expression of
his talents, if he does not employ a
maid to do the sterilizing. So a woman
may wash dishes or do any other homely
service and lose not one iota of her
freedom, if she knows that the wash-
ing of dishes, or whatever the task
may be, is not the end, but the means,
120
AMERICAN COOKERY
of service. One may reach the point
where she may do so disagreeable a
task as to black the kitchen range with
the feeling of an artist; and often with
far more artistic results than the
embroidering of roses on a pillow cover.
Work that is too great a physical
strain, or work that becomes monoto-
nous through repetition is drudgery.
This is often the case with the work of
women, perhaps, especially those who
live on farms. One could not black
ranges day after day and feel joy in
the work, because the blackening of
ranges would be the end of service, and
the imagination could not be released to
see the work as only a means of getting
one's tools in the best possible condition
to prepare that food best adapted to
increase the physical and mental activity
of the whole family. If an artist were
to paint picture after picture, without
pause for rest and new inspiration, that
would be as much drudgery as any
menial task. Work done with the
hands is just as important as any other.
Clever fingers imply clever brains.
No form of service is dinidgery, if the
one who serves is free. All forms of
service, mental or physical, are drudg-
ery, if the one who serves is "in a state
of bondage." Some one has said,
"Spirituality is seeing God in common
things and showing God in common
tasks."
This is my inspiration from my week
of housecleaning. A. B. C.
TO ECONOMIZE DIGESTION
I INDIGESTION is often attributed to
hasty eating, and people are reproved
and rightly so, for bolting their food; but
it is interesting to observe that while the
bolting of meat is always severely
censured, one never hears any blame
attached to those who swallow fruit by
the mouthful, and devour uncooked
vegetables without any attempt at
mastication. Nevertheless, it is the
hasty swallower of vegetable fibre who is
really the inciter of gastric rebellion.
Vegetables are, at all times, very imper-
fectly digested by the stomach, and re-
quire their tough fibres to be thoroughly
broken up by the teeth if they are to be
dissolved even in the bowel.
There is a well-known saying which
avers that digestion waits upon appetite,
and there is no doubt that of all the
adjuvants to digestion a keen desire for
food is the most powerful and impor-
tant. But appetite itself often depends
upon conditions which are independent
of the body's absolute necessities. Thus
the aspect of the food, its smell, taste
and even the manner in which it is
served, all help either to stimulate a
desire for it, or to induce a sense of
aversion, while the environment of the
diner often exercises important influ-
ence, beneficial or otherwise. Brain
work of any kind interferes with the
rapid digestion of food, and even the
habit of reading during meal times,
practised by so many, is conducive
neither to appetite nor digestion. A
well-lighted room, music and frivolous
conversation will often permit a chronic
dyspeptic to enjoy without remorse the
pleasures of the table, while a depressing
atmosphere, uncongenial company, and
unappetizing dishes may induce a fit of
indigestion in the most healthy in-
dividual. — Food and Cookery.
A Chicago violinist who gives concerts
throughout the West was disappointed
with an account of his recital. *T told
your man," complained the musician to
the editor, "that the instrument I used
was a genuine Stradivarius, and there
was not a word about it." Whereupon
the editor said with a laugh: "That is
as it should be. When Mr. Stradi-
varius gets his fiddle advertised in my
paper under two dollars a line, you come
around and let me know." — Every-
body's Magazine.
t'^B
BREAKFAST TABLE LAID FOR TWO, INDIVIDUAL FRUIT DISHES
Seasonable and Tested Recipes
By Janet M. Hill
IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful.
Hors D'oeuvres, Frivole
TAKE medium-sized cucumber
pickles, not too long pickled or
too acid. Cut a slice from one
side, that the finished article may
stand level, then pare off the skin and
scoop out the center to simulate a
boat. Chop fine one cup of little-
neck clams (to serve six or eight),
carefully washed and dried, and mix with
half a cup of shredded cabbage and
half a cup of crisp cress leaves ; mix with
two tablespoonfuls of chili sauce, four
tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one table-
spoonful of vinegar, and a scant half
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika.
Use the mixture to fill the pickle boats;
serve, on a leaf of lettuce or romaine as a
first course at luncheon or dinner.
Jerusalem Fishballs
Remove the skin from a four-pound
cod or haddock, then take off the flesh.
Cover the head, skin and bones of the
fish with cold water, add two slices of
onion, two cloves, and three or four
slices of carrot, and let simmer half an
hour. Pass the fish through a food-
chopper or scrape the fiesh from the
fibres with a sharp knife, then pound
smooth in a wooden bowl. To the fish
add a dozen blanched almonds, chopped
and pounded smooth, a teaspoonful of
salt, a tablespoonful of grated onion
pulp and half a teaspoonful of pepper;
and mix all together thoroughly. Shape
into balls, rather smaller than an egg,
and set them above the bones in the
saucepan; cover and let cook twenty
minutes. Remove the balls and let
them become cold. Strain off the broth,
of which there should be about one cup
and a half. Beat the yolks of four eggs,
add half a teaspoonful of salt and one-
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, and
dilute with three tablespoonfuls of the
broth; mix and stir into the broth.
Cook and stir over boiling water until
the mixture thickens, then remove from
the fire and gradually beat in the juice of
one lemon and a half. When both
121
122
AMERICAN COOKERY
sauce and fish are thoroughly chihed,
roll the balls in the sauce and dispose on
a serving dish, pour over the rest of the
sauce and garnish the dish with parsley.
Brook Trout with Bacon
Clean and wash the trout, dry on a
cloth and cut them crosswise in pieces
about an inch long. Cut slices of
choice bacon in pieces an inch long
and run both on skewers, alternating
fish and bacon. Dip in an egg, beaten,
and diluted with its bulk of milk, then
roll in sifted, soft, bread crumbs and
fry in deep fat; drain on soft paper.
cylinder shapes; roll in soft, sifted bread
crumbs, cover with egg, beaten with its
bulk of milk, and again roll in sifted
bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Serve
with hot peas or string beans, or with a
green salad, or both.
Eggs a la Messina
Cover six eggs with boiling water, and
let the dish stand, covered, where the
water wiU keep hot without boiling, half
an hour; reheat quickly to the boiling
point; let boil one minute, then drain,
cover with cold water and remove shells.
Beat one egg, add a teaspoonful, each,
CURRIED-FISH CROQUETTES
Serve with slices of lemon and parsley
branches.
Curried-Fish Croquettes
Melt one-third a cup of butter; in
it cook a slice of onion until yellowed
slightly; add half a cup of flour, one tea-
spoonful of curry powder, one-third a
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of paprika and stir and cook
until blended, then add one cup of well
seasoned fish-stock and one-third a cup
of cream and stir until boiling; beat
in one egg, well beaten, and when the
egg is set, fold in one cup and a half to
two cups of fish, cooked and separated
into flakes. Turn onto a buttered dish,
cover partially and when cold form into
of olive oil and lemon juice or vinegar,
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of onion
juice, salt and pepper and a tablespoon-
ful of fine-chopped parsley. Roll the
eggs in flour, cover completely with the
egg-mixture, let drain a little, then roll
in soft, sifted bread crumbs. Fry to a
golden brown in hot fat. Drain on
soft paper and dispose on a serving dish.
While the eggs are boiling, melt two
tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook two
tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper;
add three-fourths a cup of strong (well
reduced) beef broth or consomme and
one-third a cup of well reduced tomato
puree (cooked tomatoes pressed through
a sieve and let simmer until thick), and
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
123
stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful,
each, of chopped chives and parsle3^ one-
fourth a cup of stoned olives, cut in
slices, and half a cup or more of sliced
mushrooms (canned). If fresh mush-
rooms be used, saute them in the butter
before adding the flour, using three
tablespoonfuls of butter. Pour the sauce
over the eggs as soon as they are fried
and drained, and serve at once.
Breslauer Steak, Mushroom Sauce
Pass through a food-chopper one
pound, each, of veal from the round and
fresh pork; add half a teaspoonful of
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful or more of
pepper and one egg beaten light, and mix
all together thoroughly. Form into the
shape of a sirloin (Porterhouse) steak,
or into individual portions. Keep the
steak, in whatever shape it is made, as
thick on the edge as in the center, to
insure even cooking. Broil the steak
over coals or gas or pan-broil in a hot
frying pan. Melt three tablespoonfuls
of butter; in it cook half a pound of fresh
mushroom caps, peeled and broken in
pieces ; add three tablespoonfuls of flour,
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth
a teaspoonful of pepper and stir until
absorbed. Add a cup and a half of
brown stock or water in which half a
teaspoonful of beef-extract has been
dissolved and stir until boiling; let
simmer seven or eight minutes, then
pour over or around the steak. If
canned mushrooms be used, cut them in
halves, lengthwise, and add to the sauce
after it has boiled, but do not allow it to
boil thereafter.
Roast Leg of Lamb, Breton Style
Make an incision in the knuckle
(knee) end of a leg of yearling lamb and
into it press a clove of garlic in which
one or tAvo incisions have been made.
Roast the joint as usual, basting with
dripping or salt pork fat, and dredging
with flour. Cook at the proper time a
pint or more of green or dried red kidney
beans. When the meat and beans are
cooked, set the meat into the warming
oven, and pour off the fat from the baking
pan to leave about two tablespoonfuls
in the pan; to this add the beans,
drained from all liquid, and turn and
shake them in the pan until they have
absorbed all the browned juices in the
pan. Serve the beans around the lamb.
Potatoes may be omitted when serving
beans. If brown sauce is to be made in
the pan, shake the beans in a sauce-
pan with two or three tablespoonfuls of
the dripping poured from the pan, add-
ing also a teaspoonful or more, each, of
scraped onion-pulp and fine-chopped
parsley. In both cases add salt and
pepper as needed.
ROAST LEG OF LAMB. BRETON STYLE
124
AMERICAN COOKERY
Ham Croutons
Cut bread into slices one-fourth an inch
thick and stamp out into rounds about
four inches in diameter; spread the
rounds with butter and then with cold
boiled ham, chopped fine; above the ham
set a very thin slice or slices of common
factory cheese to completely cover the
ham; dispose the rounds on a dripping
pan and set into the oven to melt the
cheese. Serve at once for a hearty dish
water in which the ham was cooked and
two cups of syrup from the spiced sweet-
pickle jar and pour over the ham. Let
bake about forty-five minutes, basting
often with the liquid; sprinkle with
rolled cracker crumbs and let cook again
until the crumbs are browned a little.
Serve hot with a hot sauce, or cold with
a green salad.
Sauce for Hot Baked Ham
Cook three tablespoonfuls of fat
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at luncheon or supper. Mustard may
be mixed with the butter.
Extract of Beef Croutons
Prepare as the ham croutons, but use
extract of beef in place of the ham. Dry
cheese may be used, if it be grated
instead of sliced.
Baked Ham, Autumn Style
If the ham be rather salt, let soak over
night in cold water to cover; if mild
cured, set at once to cook in cold water
to cover. Heat slowly to boiling point,
then cook at a gentle simmer between
four and five hours. Let stand an
hour in the water, then transfer to a
rack in a baking pan; remove all the
skin or leave a piece three or four inches
in depth around the shank bone, cutting
the edge in points. Mix one cup of the
from the ham until the water has
evaporated; add three tablespoonfuls of
flour and half a teaspoonful of paprika
and stir until absorbed, then add one cup
and a half of the liquid with which the
ham has been basted (freed of all fat),
and stir until boiling ; add salt as needed
and three tablespoonfuls of currant
jelly and let simmer until the jelly is
dissolved.
Stuffed Tomato Salad
Peel choice tomatoes, and cut out the
centers to form cups. Let stand upside
down in a cool place to chill. When
ready to serve, fill with bits of the
tomato, removed, and slices of French
endive or heart-stalks of celery mixed
with mayonnaise dressing, through which
an equal bulk of "olive butter" has been
mixed. Serve in nests of cress, pepper-
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
125
SLICING PEELED TOMATOES LENGTHWISE FOR SANDWICHES
grass or lettuce. Olive butter is pur-
chased at 10 and 25 cents per bottle; it
is fine-chopped olives mixed w4th a small
quantity of fine-chopped pimientoes.
Chicken Salad,
Early Summer Style
Mix one cup of fine-shredded (crisp)
cabbage, one cup of chicken-breast cut in
cubes, one-fourth a cup of watercress
leaves, one-fourth a cup of small, tender
string beans, cut in bits, with enough
mayonnaise dressing to hold the in-
gredients together. Shape in a compact
mound on a serving dish; cover with a
thin layer of mayonnaise; decorate with
chopped egg-whites, sifted egg-yolks,
and fine-chopped parsley, keeping each
color distinct.
Mayonnaise of Chicken,
Summer Style
Cut the breast of a cold, cooked
chicken in half -inch cubes. Arrange the
best of the outer leaves of a head of
lettuce and cut them into narrow ribbons ;
also cut a cooked beet into small cubes.
Dispose a layer of the lettuce on a serv-
ing dish and sprinkle over it part of the
beet; on this lay the chicken and cover
it with mayonnaise; above this dispose
the rest of the lettuce and the beet.
Wash and dry short stalks of cress and
set these around the edge of the salad,
alternating with quarters of hard-
cooked eggs. Mix the salad before
serving.
Chicken Saute
Separate a pair of spring chickens into
pieces for serving; wash and dry, then
roll in flour and set to cook in a cup or
more of hot fat; let cook slowly to cook
through, and when browned turn to
brown the other side. Cut a red pepper
and half a pound of mushroom caps in
shreds and let cook in three tablespoon-
fuls of clarified butter until the moisture
is evaporated; add a cup and a half of
cream and a half-teaspoonful of salt and
pour over the chickens. Then serve at
once.
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TOMATO SANDWICHES
125
AMERICAN COOKERY
Tomato Sandwiches
Cut bread in slices one-fourth an inch
thick, and trim into such shape as de-
sired. Spread the prepared bread with
butter, then sprinkle on shredded cress
and mustard leaves. Have ready some
very thin slices of choice tomato (cut
the peeled tomatoes lengthwise rather
than crosswise of the tomato) seasoned
with French dressing, and dispose these
on the bread ; sprinkle with the prepared
mustard and cress and cover with a
second piece of bread; serve at once.
Chicken Livers and Bacon
If the slices of bacon are rather long,
cut them in halves; have the livers
let cook, turning the ears as browned,
until browned on all sides; brush again
with butter, dredge with salt and pepper
and serve at once on hot plates.
Stuffed Cucumbers
Select cucumbers of the same size;
pare, then cut them in halves, length-
wise; with a teaspoon scoop out the seeds.
Mix one cup, each, of chopped veal or
chicken, a cup of fine, soft bread crumbs,
one-fourth a cup of melted butter and
salt and pepper to season; use to fill the
cucumbers; set them into a buttered
baking dish, pour in half an inch of hot
white broth and let cook in the oven
until the cucumbers are soft (about
twenty minutes). Cream two table-
GREENCORN WAFFLES
washed and dried ; press skewers through
a piece of liver (half a liver) , then through
bacon, alternately, until the skewers are
loosely filled. Let the two ends of the
skewers rest on the edges of a baking
pan, that the liver and bacon may drip
in the pan. Let cook in a moderately
hot oven about twenty minutes. The
bacon should be crisp throughout but
not dark in color. Serve on the skewers
or push from the skewers to a hot serv-
ing dish.
Roasted Sweet Corn
Brush freshly-picked-and-husked ears
of sweet corn very lightly with melted
butter, set side by side in the roasting
pan under the flame of a gas stove and
spoonfuls of butter; beat in two table-
spoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper
and stir into the liquid around the cu-
cumbers. Add more broth if needed,
the sauce should not be too thick. Serve
from the baking dish.
Greencorn Waffles
Sift together one cup and one-fourth
of flour, four and one-half teaspoonfuls
of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of
salt. Beat the yolks of three eggs until
thick and light colored ; add half a cup of
greencorn pulp, half a cup of cream and
one-third a cup of melted shortening and
stir into the dry ingredients, fold in the
whites of three eggs beaten very light.
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
127
Bake at once on a hot, well-greased
waffle iron.
Buttercup Biscuit
Sift together two cups of pastry
flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder
and half a teaspoonful of salt ; cut in one-
fourth a cup of shortening. Beat one
egg; add half a cup of milk and use in
mixing to a dough. Knead slightly and
roll into a sheet half an inch thick; cut
into small biscuit and bake in a quick
oven.
Deviled Crusts for Soup
Cut dinner rolls (yeast) in slices one-
fourth an inch thick, spread with butter,
shake over a very little cayenne pepper,
then cover with grated Parmesan cheese.
Set into a hot oven to melt the cheese.
Lay a hot, folded napkin on a hot dish
and on this set the prepared crusts.
Serve at once with soup, preferably a
clear soup.
Peach Dumpling
Butter a baking dish and fill it with
peaches, peeled and cut in slices;
sprinkle over them one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of salt and one-fourth a cup of
boiling water. Sift together two cups of
pastry flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking
powder and half a teaspoonful of salt;
work in one-fourth a cup of shortening
and mix to a soft dough with milk (about
three-fourths cup). Spread the dough
over the prepared peaches and set into
the oven to bake about half an hour
or until well browned. Serve hot with
cream and sugar, honey or syrup.
PEACH DUMPLING
Peaches, Windsor Style
Make ready flat, round pieces of
sponge cake, about an inch and a half
thick, with one piece higher for the
center of the dish and all a little larger
around than the peaches; hollow the
pieces of cake a little in the center, to
take half a cooked peach ; fill the centers
from which the stones were taken with
marmalade, either plain, or mixed with
chopped and browned almonds; set a
second half-peach above, that the whole
may look like a perfect peach ; brush over
the outside of the peaches with white of
egg, dredge with granulated sugar and
set into a very hot oven to glaze the
peaches. Remove to a serving dish.
Have ready the syrup in which the
peaches were cooked, reduced by cook-
ing and cooled a little ; add a few drops of
almond extract and half a teaspoonful
of orange extract and pour around the
cake. Serve hot or cold, preferably hot.
Manhattan Ice Cream
Pack vanilla ice cream and peach
sherbet in brick-shaped molds; have ice
cream on the bottom and top with the
sherbet between.
PEACHES, WINDSOR STYLE
128
AMERICAN COOKERY
PRINCESS PUDDING, WITH AiARSmiALLOWS
AND CHERRIES
Peach Sherbet
Boil one quart of water and two cups
of sugar fifteen minutes; let cool and add
one cup and a half of peach pulp and
juice, half a cup of orange juice and the
juice of one lemon, and freeze as usual.
Ice Cream, Queen Style
Line the bottom and sides of a mold
with a thin layer of lemon sherbet ; inter-
line the bottom with a layer of vanilla
ice cream and over this spread a thin
layer of sunshine strawberry preserves;
over this a layer of vanilla ice cream,
then preserves, again a layer of ice
cream and finish with a thin layer of
lemon sherbet. Pack in four measures
PRINCESS PUDDING, IN STEMMED GLASS
of crushed ice to one of salt, and let
stand an hour or longer.
Ice Cream Cup, Queen Style
Dispose vanilla ice cream, lemon
sherbet and strawberry preserves in
long-stemmed glasses in layers; finish
with a rosette of whipped cream and
strawberry preserves.
Princess Pudding, with
Marshmallows and Cherries
Soften half an ounce (one-fourth a
package) of gelatine in one-fourth a cup
of cold water and dissolve in one-half a
cup of boiling water or cherry juice; add
three-fourths a cup of sugar and stir until
dissolved and cooled a little, then add
half a cup of lemon juice. Set the
mixture into ice and water and, when it
begins to stiffen, gradually beat into it
the whites of three eggs beaten very
light. When the mixture is nearly firm
enough to "hold its shape", fold in one
cup of cooked cherries and one-fourth a
pound of marshmallows cut into four
pieces, each, and turn into a mold.
When unmolded serve with cream and
sugar or a soft custard made of a pint of
milk, three egg-yolks and one-third a cup
of sugar. Maraschino cherries may be
used.
Tomato Jam
Peel ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves
and press out the seeds. Boil two
lemons until they are soft and the water
is much reduced, then pound in a
wooden bowl and press through a sieve.
Allow half a pound of sugar and the
lemon (strained) to each pound of
tomatoes. Boil until smooth. Store
in jars as marmalade.
Raspberry Vinegar
Cover one peck of raspberries with
choice cider vinegar and let stand
twenty-four hours, then strain through
cheesecloth ; measure the juice and allow
two cups (one pound) of granulated
sugar to each pint of juice. Let boil
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
129
twenty minutes, then store in sterilized
cans or bottles as in canning fruit. To
use, add as many tablespoonfuls as
desired to each glass of water.
Rice, Ristori Style
Cut two or three slices of bacon into
small squares; add a cup of new cabbage,
chopped, cover and let steam half an
hour over a slack fire; blanch half a
cup of rice, by bringing it to a boil
over a quick fire, in a quart or more of
cold water, then drain and rinse in cold
water. Add the rice to the bacon and
cabbage with half a teaspoonful of salt,
half a teaspoonful of paprika and two
cups of rich, hot veal broth. Let cook
until the rice is tender, adding more
broth as needed. Turn into a hot
serving dish, set a tablespoonful of
butter in the center and sprinkle
generously with grated cheese.
French Cocoa Souffle
Sift stale cake crumbs to fill a cup;
add half a cup of milk and let them
stand until the milk is absorbed ; add two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one-
fourth a cup of sugar and four table-
spoonfuls of cocoa or grated chocolate.
Mix all together thoroughly, then beat
in the yolks of four eggs, beaten very
light, and fold in the whites of four eggs
beaten until very light. Turn into a
buttered pudding dish; set dish on many
folds of paper in a pc^n; surround with
boiling water and let bake in a moderate
oven until well puffed and firm. Serve
at once with cream or a hot sauce. The
souffle will bake in about twenty-five
minutes. The water in the pan should
not boil after the souffle is set into the
oven.
Elizabeth's Griddle Cakes
Sift together one cup and a third of
flour, one teaspoonful of soda and half a
teaspoonful of salt. Beat two eggs;
add one-third a cup of sour cream and
two-thirds a cup of thick sour milk and
stir into the dry ingredients. Bake, in
small rounds, on a hot and carefully
oiled griddle. The recipe calls for
thick sour milk; with less acid milk, use
half a teaspoonful of soda and a level
teaspoonful of baking powder and beat
the whites and yolks of the eggs
separately, adding the whites last.
Corn Bread, Country Style
Sift together three-fourths a cup of
cornmeal, half a cup of flour, one-
fourth a cup of sugar and half a teaspoon-
ful, each, of salt and soda. Beat one
egg; add one cup of thick sour cream or
one cup of thick buttermilk or sour
milk and three tablespoonfuls of melted
shortening and stir into the dry in-
gredients. Bake in a shallow pan about
twenty-five minutes.
Dehcate Muffins
Sift together one cup and a half of
sifted pastry flour, two tablespoonfuls
and one-half of granulated cornmeal,
four teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-third
a cup of sugar ; add three-fourths a cup of
milk and three tablespoonfuls of melted
butter and mix together thoroughly.
Bake in a hot, well-buttered, iron
muffin-pan about twenty-five minutes.
Cream Cheese Salad
This may be made with any variety
of soft cheese, but is particularly good
with Philadelphia cream cheese. To
two of the latter cheeses, add two table-
spoonfuls of cream, one pimiento, twenty-
four olives and half a cup of blanched
almonds — the pimiento, olives and
almonds being chopped separately and
exceedingly fine; mix all together thor-
oughly with a wooden spoon, and press
into a mold lined with parchment paper.
When firm and chilled, unmold and cut
in slices. Serve on crisp heart-leaves of
lettuce with French dressing.
Balanced Menus for Week in August
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Sliced Peaches
Eggs Shirred in Tomatoes
French Bread, Toasted
Buttercup Biscuit Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Veal-and-Tomato Soup
Young Chickens, Saute
Corn Boiled on the Cob Summer Squash
Endive and Cress, French Dressing
Moist Gold Cake Peach Ice Cream
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin Potato Salad
Buttercup Biscuit, Toasted
Blueberries Tea
Breakfast
Puffed Wheat, Blueberries, Thin Cream
Hamburg Steak
French Fried Potatoes
Whole Wheat Popovers
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Roast Loin of Veal, Brown Sauce
Franconia Potatoes Fried Egg Plant
Tomatoes, French Dressing
Peaches, Windsor Style
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Cream Cheese Salad
Parker House Rolls (reheated)
Apple Sauce Chocolate Cake
Grape Juice
Breakfast
Puffed Rice, Thin Cream
Eggs Cooked in Shell
Fried Potatoes, German Style
Broiled Tomatoes
Spider Corn Cake
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Giblet Soup
Ham Cooked in Fireless Cooker
Swiss Chard Sweet Potatoes
French Cocoa Souffl6
Grape Juice Lemonade
Supper
Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin
Sliced Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing
Rye Bread and Butter (new rye flour)
Orange Cookies Iced Tea
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Sliced Peaches,
Thin Cream
vSalt Pork, Country Style, Cream Sauce
Small Potatoes, Baked
Green Corn Waffles, Orange Marmalade
Coffee
Dinner
Veal Souffle, Mushroom Sauce
Celery vStewed Tomatoes
Baked Sweet Potatoes
Peach vSherbet
Moist Gold Cake
Supper
Cream of Corn Soup, Croutons
Tomato Sandwiches
Chocolate Cake
Iced Tea
Breakfast
Melons
Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham
Baked Potatoes (small)
Graham Muffins
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Sword Fish, Saute
Potatoes Scalloped with Peppers
Beets, Buttered
Egg Plant — Creole Style
Apple Pie Cottage Cheese
Tea
Supper
Green Corn Custard
Boston Brown Bread French Bread
Sliced Peaches Lemon Queens
Iced Tea
Breakfast
Baked Apples, Thin Cream
Salt or Fresh Mackerel, Broiled
Potatoes Cooked in Milk
French Bread Toasted
Coffee
Dinner
Stuffed and Baked Bluefish,
Drawn Butter Sauce
Cucumbers
French Dressing with Onion Juice
Boiled Potatoes New Cabbage
Peach Shortcake Iced Coffee
Supper
Extract of Beef and Cheese Croutons
Cold Cauliflower, French Dressing
Blackberries French Rolls
Tea
Breakfast
Baked Apples, Thin Cream
Chicken Livers and Bacon on
Skewers
Cornmeal Muffins
Dry Toast
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Cream of String-Bean Soup
Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked
Summer Squash
Sweet Corn, Roasted
Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing
Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding, Cream
130
Supper
Bluefish Salad
Quick Yeast Rolls
Chocolate Eclairs
Iced Tea
Balanced Menus for Week in September
Breakfast
Blackberries
Spanish Omelet
Grilled Sweet Potatoes
Green-Corn Griddle Cakes
Dry Toast Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Mock Bisque Soup
Forequarter Lamb,
Steamed and Browned in Oven
Boiled Potatoes, Scalloped Late Peas
Romaine, French Dressing
Individual Blackberry Shortcakes
Supper
Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes,
Mayonnaise Dressing
Noisette Bread and Butter
Graham Cracker Cakes Tea
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk
Salt Codfish Balls, Late Radishes
Breakfast Corn Cake
Yeast Rolls Baked Apples
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Cream of Corn Soup
Filets of Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked,
Egg Sauce
Mashed Potatoes Cauliflower
Cucumbers, French Dressing
Apples Baked with Almonds
Supper
Succotash
Yeast Rolls (reheated)
Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Sliced Eggs
Sponge Cake Berries Tea
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Bacon Broiled in Cream
Baked Apples
Bran Muffins Dry Toast
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Round Steak en Casserole
(potatoes, onions, carrots)
Tomatoes vStuffed with Mayonnaise of Celery
Whole Wheat Bread Baked Pears
Toasted Crackers
Supper
Lamb-and-Potato Hash
Tomato Catsup
Apple Sauce Gingersnaps
Tea .
Breakfast
Melons
French Omelet
French Fried Potatoes
Cinnamon Toast
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Roast Ribs of Beef, Brown Sauce
Franconia Potatoes Swiss Chard
Chocolate Bread Pudding
(currant jelly and meringue)
Supper
Stev/ed Lima Beans (fresh)
Rye Bread and Butter
Lettuce, Apple-and-Celery Salad
Chocolate Marshmallow Cream Roll .
Iced Tea
Breakfast
Quaker Oats, Whole Milk
Frizzled Dried Beef, Creamed, Toast
Ehzabeth's Griddle Cakes
Orange-and-Pineapple Marmalade
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Cantaloupes
Stewed Chicken Corn Fritters
Sliced Tomatoes with Cress and Chives,
French Dressing
Apple Turnovers
Cream Cheese, Saltines or Flakes
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Baked Paprika Potatoes
Broiled Bacon
Chocolate Gingerbread with Whipped Cream
Cooked Berries Tea
Puffed Rice, Whole Milk
Creamed Codfish and Poached Eggs
Small Potatoes, Baked
Potato Doughnuts
Grapes
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Boiled Haddock, Drawn Butter Sauce
Sliced Tomatoes and Onions,
French Dressing
Boiled Potatoes Boiled Cauliflower
Peach Dumpling, Hard Sauce
Supper
Oyster Stew Oyster Crackers
New Pickles
Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce
Whole Wheat Biscuit
Grape Juice
Breakfast
Grapes
Creamed Haddock au Gratin
White Hashed Potatoes
Sliced Tomatoes
Graham Muffins
French Toast Honey
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Breslauer Steak, Mushroom Sauce
French Fried Potatoes
Egg Plant, Creole Style
Celery
Toasted Crackers
Edam Cheese
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Spinach with Sliced Eggs
Boston Brown Bread
Stewed Crabapples
Chocolate Marshmallow
Cream Roll,
Hot Chocolate Sauce
Tea
131
Our Daily Bread, or Three Meals a Day
By Janet M. Hill
MONDAY (AUGUST)
Breakfast
Puffed Rice, Thin Cream
Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin
Potatoes Cooked in Milk
Buttercup Biscuit Dry Toast (Graham Bread)
Sliced Peaches
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Veal-and-Tomato Soup, Deviled Crusts
Roast Leg of Lamb, Brown Sauce
Franconia Potatoes
Corn Roasted on the Ear
Boiled Beets, Buttered
Cream Cakes Strawberry Preserves
Supper
Green Corn Chowder, Browned Crackers
Pickled Beets
Cream Cakes
Grape Juice Lemonade
It is supposed that the veal loaf
served at breakfast, was made on Satur-
day and a portion left over. For this
dish, purchase on Saturday a knuckle of
veal weighing about five pounds. Re-
move three pounds and a half of the best
of the meat for the loaf (for recipe, see
page 35 , June- July number) . Brown the
bone with meat attached to it in a little
hot fat, turning as needed to brown all
sides; cover the bone with cold water
and let simmer, uncovered, until the
liquid has nearly evaporated; add water
as before, and again let simmer until the
liquid is well reduced, then add cold
water, cover the dish and let simmer un-
til the meat is tender. Remove the
meat from the bone, if desired, and set
the broth where it will chill quickly, then
set aside in the refrigerator to remain
until Monday. Monday morning we
start out with a little veal loaf, cooked
potatoes, graham bread and this soup
stock as the cooked supplies on hand.
If the breakfast hour be an early one,
on Sunday night measure the dry in-
gredients for the biscuit (for recipe see
Seasonable Recipes) and sift them to-
gether into the mixing bowl; add the
required quantity of shortening, and
make the baking pan ready for the oven;
have the egg beater, the rolling pin and
the biscuit cutter at hand; also slice the
cold potatoes into the saucepan above
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and lay
the table.
In the morning, skim the milk, or,
pour the cream from top of the bottle,
■for the rice and the coffee; turn the rice
upon an agate dish for reheating; slice
the veal, also the bread for toast; mix the
biscuit, cut the dough into rounds and
let stand in the pan until the oven is at
a proper temperature to bake. Make
the coffee and cocoa; set the potatoes
over the fire and stir to mix with the
butter; add milk, cover and let simmer
slowly; pare the peaches, slice and
sprinkle lightly with sugar to keep them
from discoloring.
Watch the coffee, and after it has
boiled from three to five minutes, move
to a cooler part of the range. Add salt
to the potatoes (half a teaspoonful to a
pint), mix, and set where they will keep
hot and yet not adhere to the bottom of
the pan. Put the rice into the oven to
remain two or three minutes. Fill the
glasses with water, set the peaches,
butter, cream, sliced meat, biscuits and
rice in their appropriate places. After
the rice has been eaten, remove these
dishes and bring in the potatoes and
coffee.
132
THREE MEALS A DAY
133
Preparing Dinner
Immediately after breakfast, scrub
the beets, being careful not to break
off the roots or bruise the skin, lest
flavor and color be diminished thereby;
cover with cold water and set over the
fire to boil until tender; replenish the
boiling water when needed.
Now (if coal be the fuel we use for
cooking) is the best time to make the
cream cakes, as the oven can be heated
more quickly and with less coal than is
possible later on in the day.
An oven hot on the bottom is needed,
if the cakes are to puff properly. The
formula given in most modern cook
books works well, but do not stint the
beating of the mixture, as the eggs are
added; butter is usually mentioned as
the shortening, but other and cheaper
shortening, if a little salt be added, will
give just as good results. The cakes
will bake in about twenty-five minutes;
when done they will feel light as taken
in the hand. Also look carefully at the
sides of the cakes as, if not well -browned
over the whole surface, they will settle.
In making the filling, cook the flour and
part of the sugar at least ten minutes in
the hot milk before the eggs are added.
The full recipe will provide generously
for dinner and supper and, also, for the
children's lunch after school.
One hour and a half before the dinner,
remove and discard the caul (an inner
fatty membrane commonly wrapped
around a leg of lamb to keep it clean)
from the lamb, also remove any super-
fluous fat that may be present. Rub
half a teaspoonful of salt and two table-
spoonfuls of flour into the flesh ; put the
joint on a rack in a baking pan and set
to cook in a hot oven. Heat some fat
from the top of the soup kettle or from
fat salt pork, and in ten minutes use to
baste the meat; turn the joint, baste the
other side and return to the oven. Let
cook ten minutes ; then reduce the heat
and let cook one hour and a half, basting
each ten minutes with hot fat. When
half-cooked, turn the joint. After the
meat has been in the oven half an hour,
pare the potatoes, cover with boiling
water and let cook ten minutes, drain
and set on the rack around the meat.
When basting the meat, baste the pota-
toes also.
After the meat and potatoes are in the
oven, remove the fat from the dish of
stock, and wipe with a cloth wrung out
of hot water to take up any last particles
of fat. To three cups of cooked toma-
toes, add two stalks of celery or an equiv-
alent of celery leaves, an onion, peeled
and sliced, and three or four branches of
parsley; let simmer twenty minutes and
press through a sieve fine enough to
exclude the tomato seeds. Add the
veal stock with salt and pepper as
needed, and heat to the boiling point.
Skim and it is ready to serve ; or it may
be kept hot, without boiling, until
needed. For the crusts to serve with
the soup, see the Seasonable Recipes.
Ten minutes before serving the dinner,
set the meat and potatoes into the
warming oven. Pour off the fat from
the roasting pan, add a cup and a half
of water to the pan and let simmer to
dissolve in it the browned meat-juices
and flour in the pan. Heat three
tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan; add
three tablespoonfuls of flour and stir
until frothy; add one-fourth a cup of
cold water, mix without cooking; then
add the liquid in the roasting pan and
stir and cook until smooth and boiling.
Let simmer five or six minutes, then
strain into a sauceboat. While the
sauce is simmering, drain the beets,
cover with cold water and push off the
skin with the hands. Slice part of them
into a hot dish, adding salt and bits of
butter, meanwhile. Slice the rest of
the beets in a bowl, cover with vinegar
and set aside for supper.
Under the oven burner of a gas range,
green corn may be most easily roasted.
It will take about fifteen minutes, and
must be watched and turned carefully.
More time will be needed when the.
134
AMERICAN COOKERY
cooking is done on a toaster over a hot
stove lid or hot coals. Unless one of
the children takes the responsibility of
the cooking, it will simplify matters
to boil the corn.
When the food is ready, pour the
water, bring in bread and butter and
serve the soup and crackers. Take
out the soup plates and bring in the
meat and vegetables.
If the potatoes for the chowder can be
sliced and the pulp be scraped from the
ears of corn at the time the potatoes and
corn are prepared for dinner, the making
of the chowder at supper time will not
be a heavy task. If desired, the dish
may be finished in the morning, up
to the point of adding the hot milk;
then at night it may be reheated and
the milk added. To secure the pulp,
with a sharp knife, score the kernels
lengthwise of the rows, then with the
back of the knife press out the pulp,
leaving the hulls on the ear.
To brown the crackers, split about
eighteen Boston crackers, spread the
inner side with butter (use about two
teaspoonfuls) , place them in a dripping
pan and set into a hot oven to reheat
and color slightly.
Corn Chowder
1 slice fat salt pork (2 oz.) 1 1 cups hot milk
1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls
1^ cups corn-pulp butter
1 J cups sliced potatoes 1 teaspoonful salt
I teaspoonful black
pepper
Cut the pork in bits and cook in a
frying pan until the fat is drawn from it;
add the onion, peeled and sliced, and
stir and cook until softened and yel-
lowed. Pour boiling water over the
potatoes, let boil three or four minutes,
drain, rinse in cold water and drain
again. Pour a cup and a half of boiling
water over the onion and pork, and let
simmer twenty minutes; strain this
water over the potatoes, pressing out
all the liquid possible, then discard the
onion and pork. After the potatoes
have cooked ten minutes, add the
corn-pulp and let simmer until the
potatoes are tender, then add the hot
milk, butter, in small pieces, and the
seasonings.
Renunciation
Think you the rose would stay the hand
That ends fore'er its garden dreams?
Live out a life by summer spanned,
Hear o'er and o'er the night wind's themes,
Or, given choice, find endless rest
Upon a loved one's hushed breast?
Think you the heart should ever cling
To fragments of a love no more,
Seek in cold ways a vanished spring,
Or linger at a fast- closed door?
More foolish are the hearts that sigh
For meeds of earth with heaven nigh.
For cherished things of life and soul,
Surrendered bravely though with pain,
Are given, as the years unroll,
Rewards that are a greater gain;
Such gifts come not at every call —
They are for hearts who once gave all!
Arthur W<^llace Peach.
Summer Drinks
By Emma Gary Wallace
THE appetite craves something
refreshing during warm weather,
and fruit juices in suitable com-
bination, lightly sweetened and diluted,
meet this need admirably.
If summer drinks are too cold, the
dehcate flavor is not as easily detected.
The ideai way is to prepare and place
the beverage beside the ice, but not to
put the ice directly into it, or, at most,
only a small shaved portion. There are
on the market several ice picks and ice
shaves which may be procured at a very
moderate cost, which break the ice in
small, regular pieces or shave it evenly.
Every home should have some im-
plement of this kind.
The glasses in which summer drinks
are served should be thin and beauti-
fully polished, and anything that adds
to the pleasure of the eye in the service
will make the beverage more appre-
ciated, — a dainty tray covered with a
snow-white embroidered doily, a thin
circlet of lemon slashed to the center
and hung on the edge of the glass, a
spray of mint, or a couple of bright
cherries.
Carbonated water may be procured in
syphons and kept in the home ice box.
Ginger ale and some of the most popular,
advertised summer drinks, are also use-
ful to give a touch of unusual and
delicious flavor.
It often happens that a given formula
does not exactly suit the taste of the
individual. It may be too sweet or not
quite sweet enough, or the elimination
or addition of some ingredient may be
suggested upon trial. It is well to ex-
periment with a new drink when the
family is alone, that proportions may be
exactly adjusted to the liking of the
people to be served. Take pains to
make a note of such changes or rewrite
the formula as you have altered it; then,
when company comes, there is no
question but that your efforts will meet
with uniform success every time.
Picnic Lemonade
Wash and roll the lemons and lay
them in the oven. Allow half a cup of
granulated sugar to each lem^on. When
the lemons are heated through, grate
the rind over the sugar. Press the
juice into a bowl. Strain into a glass
fruit can, pressing the pulp through but
rejecting the seeds. Add the sugar and
the grated rind. Seal and put into
the picnic basket. A tablespoonful of
this mixture stirred into a glass of ice
water will make a delicious drink.
Chocolate Ice Cream Soda
Prepare chocolate syrup as follows:
Bottle it and keep near the ice. This
will keep a week, at least, if kept in cold
storage and is convenient to have on
hand.
§ pound cocoa
3 pounds sugar
I 2 quarts water
Mix the cocoa and the sugar together.
Rub smooth with part of the water.
Boil the rest of the water and turn over
the paste. Bring to the boiling point
and let simmer for fifteen minutes.
When ready to use, put one rounding
tablespoonful of vanilla ice cream into a
glass, pour two tablespoonfuls of the
chocolate syrup over this, and fill the
glass with ice-cold carbonated water.
Stir very gently.
Grapeade
Juice one-half lemon
One heaping table-
spoonful sugar
Two tablespoonfuls
grape juice
Ice water to fill glass
White House Cordial
1 pint pineapple juice | 2 quarts water
1 pint orange juice | 2 pounds sugar
14 lemons | 1 cup fresh mint
135
136
AMERICAN COOKERY
Bruise the mint leaves with part of
the sugar. Boil the rest of the sugar and
water for fifteen minutes. Add the
crushed mint leaves and let simmer five
minutes more. Strain and cool. Add
the strained fruit juices. Turn into a
punch bowl and add one quart of
charged water. Garnish with tiny
sprigs of mint, thin slices of orange and
lemon and a few cherries.
Maple Cream
2 ounces maple syrup | Ginger ale
1 ounce sweet cream |
Put the maple syrup and cream into
the glass. Fill with ice-cold ginger ale.
Beat.
Maple Milk Shake
Three ounces maple syrup, 1 spoonful
vanilla ice cream. Fill the glass with
cold milk. Add a sprinkling of nutmeg.
Fruit Cocktail
1 shredded pineapple
^ pound marshmallows
Powdered sugar
1 cup cherry juice
I cup lemon juice
1 cup grape juice
3 oranges
Shred the pineapple. Peel the
oranges; free from membrane and seeds,
and cut into small pieces. Snip the
marshmallows into small sections. Mix
the fruit and marshmallow and sweeten
with powdered sugar. Mix the fruit
juices. Serve the fruit mixture in
cocktail glasses. Put a couple of table-
spoonfuls of the fruit juices over the
fruit and finish with a spoonful of lemon
sherbet.
For Haying Time
1 heaping tablespoon- I Juice 4 lemons
ful powdered ginger \ 1 pound sugar
I pint vinegar | 2 quarts water
Mix the sugar, ginger, lemon juice,
and vinegar together. Pour the water
over this. Mix until the sugar is dis-
solved.
Gingered Lime
2 tablespoonfuls lime juice
1 teaspoonful extract of Jamaica ginger
2 tablespoonfuls sugar
Ice or carbonated water
Mix the ginger, lime juice and sugar.
Fill the glass with plain or carbonated
water.
Preparedness Punch
2 tablespoonfuls cherry juice
2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice
2 tablespoonfuls sugar
Fill glass with bottled sarsaparilla soda.
Ginger Special
2 tablespoonfuls of grape juice
Shaved ice
Ginger ale
Put the grape juice and the ice into
the glass. Fill with ginger ale.
Home-made Aperient Water
Put two ounces of Epsom salts into a
bowl. Add the juice of two lemons and
half a cup of sugar. Pour a quart of
boiling water over this. Put two ounces
of cream of tartar into a glass fruit can.
When the Epsom salts mixture is luke
warm, turn into the can containing the
cream of tartar. Seal at once and put
beside the ice.
Raspberry Vinegar
Take half the measure of cider
vinegar that you have of raspberries.
Put over the fire in an aluminum or
agate-ware kettle and boil slowly until
the fruit has all gone to pieces. Strain
through muslin. To each quart of the
resulting juice, allow one pound of sugar.
Bring once more to the boiling point.
Seal in sterilized bottles. Allow two
tablespoonfuls to a glass of ice water.
Fruited Mint
2 cups sugar
1 orange
6 lemons
Cup red raspberries
A handful bruised mint
Make a syrup of the sugar and half a
cup of cold water. Do not stir. When
it spins a thread, add the strained juice
of the lemons and orange. Pour one
cup of boiling water over the pulp and
skins of the fruit. Set on the stove and
let come to the boiling point. Strain
and add to the first mixture. Cool.
Add a quart and a half of ice water and
the raspberries. Serve with a sprig of
mint on top of each glass.
Shakespeare's Vegetables
By Sarah Graham Morrison
TO those of us whose acquaintance
with Shakespeare has been gained
mostly from the stage and from
ordinary reading, it would probably
seem, at first mention of the subject,
that Shakespeare had .little to say in his
plays concerning vegetables. It is doubt-
ful if, offhand, one out of a hundred who
is thoroughly well-versed in his dramas
could recall a reference to a single
member of the vegetable kingdom, —
vegetables strictly speaking, for his
flower passages are much better known.
It will come as somewhat of a surprise
to them to be told that he mentions
forty-one different fruits, grains and
vegetables, — almonds, apples, beans,
cabbage, carrots, chestnuts, corn, cur-
rants, dates, figs, grapes, lemons, lettuce,
mint, mushrooms, mustard, nuts, olives,
onions, oranges, parsley, parsnips, peas,
peaches, pears, pepper, plums, pome-
granates, potatoes, prunes, pumpkins,
quinces, radishes, rhubarb, rice, sage,
squash, strawberries, turnips, walnuts,
wheat.
Beginning with the grains, there are
probably more passages about corn than
any other vegetable. Shakespeare uses
the word corn at least twenty-three
times; but it will, of course, be under-
stood that when Shakespeare uses the
word he uses it as the generic term.
In Love's Labour's Lost, we find the
quotation,
"He weeds the corn, and still lets grow the
weeding."
In Henry IV, reference is made to the
"winnowing of the corn. "
and in Henry VI, we find the expression
"Talk like a vulgar sort of market-men,
That come to gather money for their corn."
and again,
"Want ye corn for bread?"
But a prettier passage is,
"Why droops my lord like over-ripen'd com,
Hanging the head at Ceres' plenteous load?"
In the third part of Henry VI, King
Edward says,
"Once more we sit in England's royal throne
Repurchas'd with the blood of enemies.
What valiant foemen, like to autumn's corn,
Have we mow'd down in tops of all their
pride."
In Henry VIII, we find the passage,
"She shall be loved and fear'd; her own shall
bless her;
Her foes shake like a field of beaten com."
It will be remembered that in the
play Coriolanus, there are a number of
passages concerning the buying of the
corn. One wonders if Shakespeare had
in mind the nursery rhyme of Little Boy
Blue, when he wrote these lines in King
Lear,
"Sleepest or wakest thou, jolly shepherd?
Thy sheep be in the corn."
The principal grain has always been
wheat — i.e. white, in contradistinction
to black oats and rye. Shakespeare
mentions wheat many times in his plays,
one of the best known passages being in
Hamlet,
"As peace should still her wheaten garland
wear."
Another equally well-known passage is
from the Merchant of Venice,
" His reasons are as two grains of wheat hidden
in two bushels of chaff."
He speaks of * 'white wheat" in King
Lear and of ''red wheat" in Henry IV.
From the barley, the "beere plant,"
as its name implies, was early brewed
"barley broth," which was assumed to
be the food of English soldiers.
Henry V.
"Can sodden water,
A drench for sur-rein'd jades, their barley
broth,
Decot their cold blood to such valiant heat?"
In The Tempest, barley is named with
other cereals :
137
138
AMERICAN COOKERY
"Ceres, most bounteous lady, thy rich leas
Of wheat, rye, barley, vetches, oats and
pease."
In Love's Labour's Lost, we have the
shepherds
"piping on oaten straws"
and Oberon
"playing on pipes of corn."
In As You Like It, are the lines :
"Between the acres of the rye,
These pretty country folks would He."
that is, on the grass strips between the
ploughed acres and half-acres of the
common fields. We take it that the
rye straw was used in Shakespeare's
time for making hats, for in The Tempest
occurs the passage,
"Make holiday — your rye-straw hats put on."
But enough of the cereals. Let us see
what he has to say about the ordinary
garden vegetables. In The Merry Wives
of Windsor, we find one reference to
cabbage,
"Good worts! good cabbage. Slender, I broke
your head: what matter have you against me?"
The carrot is a native plant, tho\igh
long cultivation makes the garden form
and the wild hardly recognizable as
close relatives. It is said to have been
introduced as a garden plant into
England by Flemish gardeners, and its
name was extended to cover the
parsnip.
The potato was not introduced into
the British Isles until twenty years after
Shakespeare was born. The two
passages in his plays are among the
earliest mention of the tuber after its
introduction. The plant was introduced
into Ireland in 1584 by Sir Walter
Raleigh. A writer of 1597 tehs how
potatoes are eaten, "either rosted in the
embers, or boiled and eaten with vinegar
and pepper, or dressed in any other way
by the hand of some cunning in
cookerie." The two passages in Shakes-
peare are,
"Let the sky rain potatoes."
and
"How the devil Luxury, with his fat rump and
potato-finger, tickles these together."
Turnips are grown on a large scale
as food for cattle, but we find only one
mention of them in Shakespeare's plays.
"I had rather be set quick i' the earth
And bowl'd to death with turnips."
In Shakespeare's time it was believed,
that tender onions eaten in honey give
health, that the juice is a remedy for
baldness, that it is good for the com-
plexion, and takes'away white spots from
the face, that mingled with hen's grease,
it drieth up the kibes, while mixed with
honey and salt it was a sovereign remedy
against the bite of a mad dog, but
Shakespeare seems to have thought of
onions principally as tear-producing
vegetables. In Anthony and Cleopatra,
he says,
"Indeed, the tears live in an onion that should
water this sorrow,"
and in The Taming oj the Shrew,
"And if the boy have not a woman's gift,
To rain a shower of commanded tears,
An onion will do well for such a shift."
One reference alone is necessary to
his use of peas, which was a curious old
lovers' custom of reading good or evil
fortune with a pea-pod, which gave
birth to a Devonshire proverb :
"Winter time for shoeing, peascod time for
wooing."
In As You Like It, are the lines :
"I remember the wooing of a peascod instead
of her: from whom I took two cods, and giving
her them again, said with weeping tears, 'Wear
these for my sake. ' ' '
"The divination of a peascod was obtained by
selecting one growing on the stem, snatching
it away quickly, and if the good omen of the
peas remaining in the husk were preserved, then
presenting it to the lady of one's choice.'
So we might continue with the nuts
and fruits. Nowhere do they seem
dragged in for the sake of showing his
knowledge, but always are they used
with telling effect, generally with
metaphor or simile; and as one studies
the plays from this viewpoint, one
marvels again and again at the profound
knowledge of the writer.
Home Ideas
and
iEcONOMIExSJr
Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be
paid for at reasonable rates.
Young Squash, Italian Style
NOT the patty pan or scalloped
variety is meant, but the imma-
ture Italian variety to be had in our
large cities and wherever Italians grow-
vegetables. The Italians begin to use
squash from the blossom period on,
for the Neapolitans use the blossoms
dipped in batter for fritters, — and very
nice they are, made of the dewy-fresh
golden fragrant flowers of our American
variety. The writer tried this years
ago, and lest the idea be thought waste-
ful and destructive of the crop, let it be
explained that there are two kinds of
flowers on the squash vine, those which
develop fruit and those which only
yield pollen. Choose some of these
superfluous pollen-bearing flowers. The
fruit-bearing ones are readily told by the
formation of the fruit back of the bloom
from the earliest showing of the bud.
The Italians send baby squash into
market, the withered blooms still at-
tached. These squashes are green in
color and club-shaped or like big oval
croquettes. Of course, they are very
tender and not to be boiled and mashed
like our squash. The foreign way is to
slice them lengthwise. Fry them, that
is saute them, in olive oil. Add salt, a
tiny can of Italian tomato paste, and
some garlic. Stew gently and serve hot.
Another way is to coat them in a rich
egg-batter, that is a batter rich in egg,
(in egg, not fat) and saute them slowly
until done through, then dress them with
a white sauce. This may be flavored
with some onion and celery, parsley
minced on top, etc., to suit the family
likings in the matter of white sauces.
The Italian tomato paste is very in-
expensive and convenient. Some of it
comes flavored with pimiento, or sweet
peppers.
Fried Bread or ''Nun's Fritters"
SO often sour milk is thrown away
and sweet milk purchased, but sour
milk may be used for salad dressing,
gingerbread, batter cakes and corn
bread, graham bread and many other
things. However, to use it for French
fried bread, or nun's fritters seem a new
departure. The idea, while from an
American source, came in a collection of
recipes from Hawaii, which, though a
part of the United States for some time,
still, in a way, seems foreign to most of us.
The recipe calls for stale bread to be
dipped in hot water, then in a batter
made from one quart of sour milk, a
teaspoonful of soda, butter the size of an
egg, melted and added to beaten eggs,
and some salt. Fry in hot lard.
The writer prefers to cook it quickly
a golden brown upon a griddle that has
been rubbed with butter or crisco. If
there is no griddle,use a deep iron fry-pan
instead, or an omelet pan will do.
This fried bread is nice with an addi-
tion of red and white pepper and a little
sugar, also, as well as salt, if it is to be
eaten with meat or eggs. If for a sweet
dish, serve with cinnamon and sugar,
mixed; or with a pudding sauce of a
simple kind, with stewed fruit or jam.
It may be stamped out in rounds and
used as a base for sweets, such as a half-.
139
140
AMERICAN COOKERY
peach or apricot, heated in the liquid
that comes with canned fruit.
The important point is that sour milk
may be used for this appetizing dish by
simply correcting the acidity with soda.
Left-Over Macaroni and Boiled
Rice
OF course, macaroni can always be
reheated, or used in croquettes,
with other things, but a good way to
change and enlarge the supply of cold
macaroni, cooked with cheese, is to open
a can of tomato and put with it. Cut the
macaroni into short lengths. For the
home table it is not amiss, or for a school
child's quick luncheon, to add some cold
cooked rice, also. Season with salt and
pepper, and a little onion, or celery, if
liked. Southern people are very apt to
put boiled rice, by the spoonful, into
their stewed tomato, just as they like
rice with a gumbo, and so it is nice to add
it to the macaroni-and-tomato.
Cold meat can be cut small and added,
making a nourishing stew. If properly
prepared these combinations are not
''messy" in appearance, but are appetiz-
ing and economical ways of using small
portions of good food. Cold rice may
also be used in various salad combina-
tions.
Macaroni and rice with leftovers of
vegetables can be put through a vege-
table press or sieve and used for a thick
soup by the addition of stock, or milk.
A New Industry
HOTELS and restaurants in some
cities can buy potatoes peeled and
ready to cook. The waste portions are
converted into yeast and vinegar.
Of course, alcohol can be made from
potatoes. Potato flour is little used in
the United States, although many nice
things can be made from it, as cakes,
puddings, etc. It is less liked than corn-
starch and wheat flour for gravies and
sauces.
Many persons, when starch is lacking
for stiffening some few pieces, such as
shirt waists, laces and the like, do not
know that the starch easily made from
boiled potatoes can be used, or from
boiled rice. The Japanese use rice
starch for their fine embroideries, in
fact, who can think of the Japanese
without rice in some form, from straw
for farm hats to fancy cakes.
A California Method of Preserving
Figs
PEEL the figs and dry them in the hot
sun for a day, then let them stand
over night in sugar, which is to preserve
them. Finally cook like any preserve.
The drying after peeling is intended to
keep their shape and not cook to pieces.
Flavor as preferred with lemon, vanilla,
ginger root, rose geranium, etc.
Raisin Butter
THIS has not yet been made in large
commercial quantities, but so far
as tried is pronounced a success by all
who use it.
Freshly made Muscatel raisins, seeded,
and seedless raisins were ground to-
gether until fine, and a little syrup added
to make it of a nice smooth consistency.
Why should we not have raisin butter
as well as apple, peach, and plum
butters,, also the well-known peanut
butter ?
Fried Artichokes
TAKE small globe artichokes, so
abundant in California and parts of
our Southern states. Cut off the hard
parts and top. Parboil for fifteen
minutes, and then dip in egg-batter and
fry in olive oil.
This is the Italian method, so much
talked of by returning tourists, — little
fried artichokes "no bigger than a
chrysanthemum." J. D. C.
Green Tomato Mince Meat
CHOP green tomatoes, measure three
pints and drain well. Add four
pints chopped apples, two cups chopped
seeded raisins, one and one-half cups
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
141
seedless raisins, one cup seeded raisins
cut in halves, one-half cup fine-chopped
citron, three and one-half' cups brown
sugar, one and one half cups vinegar,
three teaspoonfuls cinnamon, one tea-
spoonful, each, clove and mace, two
teaspoonfuls salt. Simmer mixture
until it looks clear (about three hours),
then add one cup butter ; seal while hot
in glass jars. Mrs. J. H.
Sauted Celery and Potatoes
1 cup celery, cut in inch pieces.
2 cups cold, boiled potatoes, diced.
BOIL celery in salted water until
soft and drain off all moisture. Heat
bacon fat or butter in a frying pan; when
smoking hot turn in the potatoes, toss
them well so they will brown evenly, and
cook until quite crisp; when done put
them on a dish on the back of the stove
to keep hot. Add more bacon fat to the
frying pan and saute the celery until it
is a golden brown. Pour off any excess
fat left in the pan and return the
potatoes; add pepper or paprika, mix
thoroughly with a silver fork, reheat,
and serve.
This dish will be found particularly
good to serve with roast beef or beef
steak. The quantity given in this
recipe should serve six people. F. A.
Keeping Cream
THE uses of a reliable "vacuum
bottle," are not confined to picnics
or excursions. It is often necessary to
keep a small amount of cream or milk
for several hours before it is to be used,
when it is not convenient to buy ice
for that purpose alone. If the bottle be
perfectly cold, and the fresh ice-cold
milk or cream be put into it immediately
the milkman brings it, it should keep
without turning for a day, at least.
This is especially useful when one's
early breakfast is the only meal taken
at home. Milk is, perhaps, the most
important of foods, the price of which,
it seems, often has little to do with its
quality.
The Cost of Government
THE fact is that the cost of our
Government has passed beyond the
control of any one department or any
one party. In the last thirty-five years
our population has doubled and our
expenditures have more than trebled.
No matter what party is in the as-
cendancy, appropriations increase.
Twenty years ago billion-dollar Con-
gresses excited attention. The Con-
gress just adjourned authorized the
expenditure in two years of $2,231,-
239,547.
This is more than one-fifth of the
estimated value of our farm products
last year. It is two-thirds of all the
money in circulation in the United
States. It is more than twice the
capital of all national banks. It is
almost one-half of all deposits in sav-
ings banks. It is more than $22 for
every man, woman and child in the
Republic.
With Federal outlay mounting in
this fashion, it is to be remembered
that under our system *there are other
Governments, State and municipal,
which exhibit the same tendency.
The cost of Government is increasing
faster than population, faster than
wealth, faster than manufactures, faster
than foreign commerce. No other
public issue is of such importance. No
other receives so little intelligent and
patriotic attention.
To master a situation which has been
growing steadily worse for many years,
good citizens must forget for a season
that they are Democrats and Republi-
cans, and become devoted Americans.
The growth and prosperity of the
country, the earnings of labor, the
tranquility of the people, the promotion
of justice, the security of life and
property, even the preservation of
Republican institutions, may depend
upon the success of a reform that is both
vital and urgent. — The New York
World.
142
AMERICAN COOKERY
Making and Drinking Coffee (in
Europe)
THE other day I ran across a
relative in San Diego, camping
out in the city Hke myself. We
went into a moving picture show and
from one of her. parcels there came a
fine odor of fresh-ground coffee wasting
its flavor in the air instead of being
kept for the cup. This woman rather
fancies herself on her coffee. She keeps
it in an ordinary tin, boils it up once in
water and settles it, and the brew is
decent but not so good as it should be.
This American way of making coffee
wastes the limited amount of flavor in it,
and, the coffee being ground coarse to
keep the extract clear, not all of it is
utilized.
Everywhere in Europe, except in
England, they do this better. Every
household has a coffee-mill and the coffee
is ground just before making it. The
berries are bought whole at a shop
where the sales are so large that the
coffee has been roasted only a few days
before. The coffee is made by pouring
boiling water over it in a perforated
top to the coffee-pot, and the coffee
runs through clear, with all its flavor
preserved, without a boiled taste, and
is completely extracted.
If a coffee-mill is not at hand, most
of the flavor can be preserved by taking
one or two pint Mason jars to the shop,
having the coffee, ground rather fine,
put into them immediately. No more
should be bought than will be used
in a week, and even so the last of
it will not be as good as the first. A
pint jar holds six ounces of ground
coffee.
A cup of coffee is like a beefsteak in
being best when consumed as soon as
possible after cooking it. For the late
straggler down to breakfast Sunday
morning a second coffee "biggin" for
making one or two cups is a useful
addition to the family coffee-pot. If
economy is necessary, the French way of
serving breakfast coffee avoids the
expense of cream. They make it very
strong and fill the large cup or bowl
with hot milk. One can get accustomed
to the boiled milk flavor, and the milk
is nourishing. The Germans use a
special thin cream called "coffee cream",
which costs about twenty cents a
quart, which is four times the price of
their milk. When one lives in furnished
rooms in Germany, this coffee with rolls
and butter is included in the price of
the rooms, and is brought in by your
landlady, who is, also, not above black-
ing your shoes.
The French people sit at table after
lunch and chat and smoke over a cup
of black coffee. In the afternoon the
women seldom take anything until
dinner. When they do it is often a cup of
chocolate in a cake-shop. The German
hausfrau relaxes after her heavy noon
dinner and takes a nap, reappearing
about four o'clock, when she and her
neighbors go into the garden and drink
coffee and eat cakes and gossip. It is
a pleasant function, better suited to
bright summer weather than the English
afternoon tea, which is at its best indoors
in the gloomy climate of the English
winter. .
The men of France and Germany
work late and take it easy after the
noon meal, going to a cafe for coffee
and a smoke or even a game of cards.
On Sundays, the German family often
go to a garden restaurant, children and
all, where they sit for hours drinking
coffee ordered in huge portions.
Both Germans and French drink
coffee because they want to go to a cafe
or garden restaurant, while the British
are seized with an irresistible tea-thirst
between half past four and five o'clock
and rush into the nearest teashop to
satisfy it. They often eat ravenously
at the same time of bread and butter
and jam, as though the appetite had just
waked up for the day. B. W.
THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave^ Boston, Mass,
Query No. 2712.
less Cooker."
"Recipes for use in Fire- Query No, 2714. — "What Foods are suit-
able for a formal dinner?"
Dishes for Fireless Cooker
Round steak or stuffed veal cut-
lets, — both given as casserole dishes,
may be cooked in a fireless cooker.
Corned beef, shoulder and leg of lamb,
a fowl, either with or without vegetables,
are among the dishes particularly good
for this style of cooking. A recipe for
stuffed veal cutlets was given in the
June-July number of the magazine;
round steak, either plain or stuffed, may
be cooked in the same manner — that is
with the same vegetables and same
general style of cooking.
Query No. 2713. — "What Courses must be
included in a dinner that it may be designated as
a formal dinner?"
Courses for a Formal Dinner
Just where the dividing line between
a formal and informal dinner should be
drawn is not easy to determine. Of
course, corned beef, with the vegetables
usually accompanying it, does not com-
prise a formal dinner; but there are
other dinners of whose classification one
would be in doubt.
. Possibly a dinner at which was served
a clear soup, fresh fish in some form, a
roast of butcher's meat, poultry or game
with a green salad, and a choice dessert,
followed by coffee, would be as simple
a meal as could be called a formal
dinner.
Foods for a Formal Dinner
The main course of a formal dinner
should express dignity; thus a roast is
usually selected for this course. Braised
meats are allowable; boiled meats are
less highly favored and are rarely — if
ever — selected for such a dinner.
Ham, even if given after a roast — in a
dinner in which both roast and ''game"
(not always game but a highly flavored
dish) are presented — is baked rather
than boiled.
Now comes the exception: In these
modern days when roasts are not carved
on the table, is the dinner less formal if
the filet of beef be cut into steaks and
broiled, and thus served with Hollan-
daise or brown mushroom sauce, as the-
roast filet would be served ?
Consomme is the dinner soup. Bouil-
lon, cream soups and purees are luncheon
soups.
French dressing is used at dinner,
mayonnaise at luncheon. If mayonnaise
be used at dinner, on cauliflower, aspara-
gus or tomatoes, the salad is served
as an entree and as a course by itself.
It is not necessary that the dessert
course in a formal dinner include an ice,
still an ice is considered the choicest
dessert that can be provided.
Query No. 2715. — "Are Fruit Cocktails
(without liquor), grape fruit, etc., ever served as
a first course at formal dinners to precede the
143
144
AMERICAN COOKERY
soup? Are frozen dishes ever correctly served
as first courses?"
Service of a Fruit Cocktail
A fruit cocktail may be served before
a soup or in place of the soup, but
would be considered rather less "formal
than a choice canape. Canapes are
rarely served at luncheon, but this is an
open question.
A frozen sweet dish is quite out of
place as a first course at any meal.
Query No. 2716. — "An expert in cookery
says that in heating butter to the brown stage,
as in sauces etc., we change it into an almost
deadly poison, transfusing it from a good whole-
some product into one of the worst forms of
food for the stomach to digest. Will you tell me
if this is so, and why?"
Cooked Butter
The expert puts the case somewhat
too strongly. Any fat, if heated beyond
a fixed point, splits into simpler bodies ,
of which the most in evidence are the
so-called fatty-acids. Since these are
the normal products of all fat digestion,
they are hardly to be spoken of as
"almost deadly poisons." They are,
however, properly formed in any quant-
ity only after the food has left the
stomach, so that a delicate digestion is
sometimes upset by having them where
they do not belong (in the stomach).
Butter heated to a high temperature
happens to be especially liable to form
unpleasant or irritating by-products, but
none of these are really poisonous.
Query No. 2717. — "Recipe for moist Gold
Cake?"
Moist Gold Cake
i cup butter
4 egg-yolks
1| cups sugar
1 cup milk
2 1 cups flour
3 level teaspoonfuls
baking powder
Beat the butter to a cream and the
egg-yolks until light colored and thick,
then beat half the sugar into each.
Sift the flour and baking-powder to-
gether, then add to the first mixture,
alternately, with the milk; beat very
thoroughly. Bake in loaf, sheet or
layers.
Query No. 2718. — "How may Strawberry
and Raspberry Juice be prepared to keep for
use in the winter in ices, punch, etc.?"
Canned Strawberry and Rasp-
berry Juice
Heat the berries, hulled and washed if
necessary, in a large double boiler until
they are softened throughout, then
drain through a cloth, pressing out all
the juice. Heat until just below the
boiling point and store as any canned
fruit in sterilized j ars . Use new rubbers .
The residue in the cloth may be covered
with water and simmered ten or fifteen
minutes, and after expressing the liquid
it may be canned as above. This liquid
will not be as highly flavored or colored
as the first.
Date-and-Tapioca Pudding
Set a pint of boiling water and half a
teaspoonful of salt over the fire in a
double boiler; stir in half a cup of a quick
cooking tapioca, stirring occasionally,
and let cook until the tapioca is trans-
parent; add one-fourth a cup of sugar,
the juice of a lemon and half a pound or
more of prepared dates, then fold in the
beaten whites of two eggs and let cook
until the egg is cooked, two or three
minutes. Serve hot or cold, but pref-
erably hot, with cream. To prepare the
dates, cover them with boiling water,
stir with a plated fork, then skim from
the water to an agate dish, cut the dates
from the seeds, in four lengthwise pieces,
each, when they are ready to use.
Query No. 2719. — "In catering for Fifty
People how can one judge how much soup to
prepare, how much fish, beef, poultry, etc., to
buy that there may be just enough?"
Food for Fifty Persons
In purchasing supplies for 50 people
the quantity to be ordered would
depend on the age and occupation of the
people to be served, also the number of
other items of food to be presented in
the meal would need to be considered.
If both fish and butcher's meat are pro-
vided, the quantity needed of each
QUERIES AND ANSWERS
145
would be less than, if either be served
alone. In hotels and restaurants the
style of service,, as — table d' hote or
a la carte, has to do with the quantity
needed. The Hotel Monthly in referring
to a similar subject lately, without
specifying which kind of service was
intended, gives three-fourths . a pound
of turkey (for roasting) or white fish
(for boiling) as the proper allowance for
each individual; by the same authority
half a pound of tenderloin (roast) or
filet of sole was estimated as the proper
quantity to allow for each service.
These latter are practically free from
waste. One bushel of potatoes are
supposed to supply 200 orders of
mashed potatoes or 150 orders of French-
fried potatoes; and one gallon of soup 24
portions. We think the quantity of
soup too small and the quantity of meat
and fish rather large. For the home
table three-fourths to one whole cup of
soup is allowed to each individual. The
careful provider of supplies will note the
quantity left over or lacking at each
meal on paper, and in less than a week's
time by comparison and study will be
able to make out a list of quantities for
nearly all the items that are included in
the bill of fare provided for her especial
family, be it large or small.
Query No. 2720. — "Kindly give explicit
directions for Preserving Eggs for winter use."
To Preserve Eggs for Use in Winter
Into each three gallons of water mix
one pint of freshly-slacked lime and one-
half pint of common salt ; put in the eggs
and cover with a board sprinkled with
lime and salt.
Solution for Preserving Eggs
Fill an earthen or water-tight wooden
vessel with eggs. To one part of water
glass, also known as soluble glass and
silicate of soda, add ten parts of tepid
water, stirring the water thoroughly and
slowly into the water glass. When the
resultant mixture is cold, pour it gently
over the eggs, using sufficient to immerse
2 cups pastry flour
\ teaspoonful salt
4 teaspoonfuls baking
powder
them. Three pints of water glass and
thirty pints, or fifteen quarts, of water
will generally cover fifty dozen eggs.
Keep the vessel covered and in a cool
place.
Query No. 2721. — "Recipe for Scotch
Scones both plain and with raisins or currants?"
Scotch Scones
3 tablespoonfuls short-
ening
1 egg, beaten light
I to I cup milk
Sift together the flour, salt and baking
powder; with two knives cut in the
shortening ; add the half cup of milk to
the egg and use in mixing the dry in-
gredients to a dough, adding more milk
if needed; turn on a floured board,
knead slightly to shape in a round and
roll out about half an inch thick; cut in
triangular-shaped pieces (as a pie is cut),
set a little distance apart on a baking
pan, brush over with shortening and
bake about fifteen minutes. Split the
scones, toast over coals, spread with
butter and serve at once.
\ cup shortening
2 yolks, beaten light
^ cup milk (about)
I cup Sultana raisins
Scotch Scones with Fruit
2 cups pastry flour
^ teaspoonful salt
4 teaspoonfuls baking
powder
\ cup sugar
Sift the sugar with the other dry
ingredients, and mix as plain scones,
adding the fruit at the last; currants or
candied peel may be used in place of the
raisins. If preferred the scones may be
cut with a round or fancy shaped cutter,
instead of the triangular shapes noted
above. Brush over the shapes, after
they are set in the pan, with shortening
or milk and dredge with sugar. When
baked split, toast, spread with butter
and serve at once.
Query No. 2722. — "Recipe for Home-made
Soap?"
Home-made Soap
1 quart cold water I 2 teaspoonfuls sugar
1 can potash 2 tablespoonfuls borax
6 lbs. melted and 1 tablespoonful am-
strained grease monia
146
AMERICAN COOKERY
Add the water to the potash and let
stand until the potash is dissolved and
the mixture is cool. The grease should
be just warm ; mix it with the potash and
water; add the sugar, borax and am-
monia and stir slowly until the mixture
thickens; pour into a shallow box and
mark into squares or cakes before it
becomes too hard.
Query No. 2723. —"Recipes for Philadelphia
ReHsh and Eggs a la King?"
Philadelphia Relish
1 pint cabbage,
chopped fine
1 red pepper, chopped
fine
1 green pepper,
chopped fine
I teaspoonful salt
cup brown sugar
teaspoonful white
mustard seed
teaspoonful celery-
seed
cup vinegar
Chop the cabbage and peppers ex-
ceedingly fine, then mix all the in-
gredients together.
Query No. 2724. — "Recipes for Chutney,
Pepper ReHsh and Hebrew Relish?"
Chutney
2 cups vinegar
2 tablespoonfuls salt
^ package pickling
spices or equivalent
of stick cinnamon
1 teaspoonful celery
seed
6 peaches
12 ripe tomatoes
24 apples
2 cups raisins
8 small onions
4 peppers (seeds
discarded)
4 cups brown sugar
Remove the skins from the peaches,
tomatoes, apples, and onions, discarding
peach stones and apple cores. Chop
the prepared fruit, raisins, onions and
peppers very fine ; add the sugar, vinegar
salt and spices (tied in a bag), and let
simmer one hour; store as canned fruit.
Pepper Relish
3 pints vinegar
4 cups sugar
4 tablespoonfuls salt
12 red peppers
12 green peppers
8 small onions
12 green tomatoes
Chop the vegetables very fine ; add the
other ingredients and let simmer one
hour. Store in cans or seal in bottles.
Hebrew Relish
For about a pint, grate two horse-
radish roots; add one tablespoonful of
tumeric, half a cup of sugar, a table-
spoonful of celery seed, two tablespoon-
fuls of mustard seed, and hot vinegar to
cover the whole. Store in a pint jar,
adding hot vinegar to fill to overflow.
Let the mixture stand one week before
use.
Keeping Newspapers
WHEN the daily newspapers are
neither destroyed nor used at
once for household purposes, but are
laid aside for future packing, or some
charitable organization, it pays to make
each lot of them into a flat, square
bundle, and tie the package with a
string stout enough to lift it by. Such
packages can be stored in less space
than loose papers require, can be shifted
and handled, when housecleaning time
comes, and the papers are always clean
and ready for any need, or for sale.
Worth Knowing
There should be wider knowledge of
the well-proven fact that by first taking
breaths as deep as possible, and as
rapidly as possible, for a minute or two,
the breath can be held longer than it
can be done otherwise. If one ever
has to go through smoke, or other
strangling fumes, ability to protect
one's lungs thus may mean the differ-
ence between safety and extreme danger.
There is no reason why young children
may not be taught this, and shown how
to practice deep and long breathing.
An Ancient Standard
The grain, as a unit of measurement,
was introduced by Henry III, who
ordered a grain of wheat gathered from
the middle of the ear to be the standard
of weight.
The colored people of Virginia pay
taxes on real and personal property to
the amount of $34,743,656. Of this
amount, $3,180,662 is in the city of
Richmond.
The Silver Lining
Chez Nous
This morning to my home I said:
"Dear Home, I've nicely breakfasted,
And now good-by; I'm on the wing
To do my larger housekeeping.
At ten, a committee on -
'Homes in the Making' ;
At eleven, on 'Housing';
At twelve, on 'Child Rearing' ;
No luncheon. At one, to the
'League for Good Training
And Wise Supervision of
Household Domestics';
Two to three, a debate on
'Why Women are Restless' ;
At four, a committee
On 'After School Play Time';
At five, a symposium
On 'Meeting One's Husband.'
Dear Home, at six to you returned,
Enlarged by so much I have learned.
If not too tired, it seems to me
I'll dam the stockings after tea."
C. S. P. W.
Still a Proud Father
That parental affection does not
always see things as they are is illus-
trated by a story told by a Georgian.
Harper's Monthly tells that he overheard
this conversation between two natives
who had formerly been close friends.
**A11 your boys turned out well, did
they?"
"Yes, I reckon they did."
* 'What's John doing?"
"He's doctoring in Texas."
"And Dick?"
"He's enlarging of a country news-
paper and collecting subscriptions."
"And William — what's he doing?"
"He's preaching the gospel and split-
ting rails for a living."
"And what are you doing?"
"Well, I'm supporting John and Dick
and William."
"You see. Miss Blatch," said the
manager of a certain public refreshment
room, ''there is a great deal in making
your sandwiches look attractive."
"Yes, sir, I know," replied the girl, "I
have done everything I could. I have
dusted those sandwiches every morning
for the last ten days !"
College Graduates and Their
Wives
Dozens of old graduates were back,
and they talked a lot about themselves
and a lot more about others not so
fortunate as to attend.
"Most of our old crowd are married
and happy," said one.
"Married, anyhow," said another,
with the grin that always accompanies
this silly joke.
"I accept the amendment," returned
the first speaker, "but chiefly on account
of poor Billy Tompkins. He had an un-
fortunate marital experience."
We hadn't heard of it and begged for
particulars.
"Why, the girl he married turned out
to be a professional pickpocket."
The man who had first spoken sighed,
but his eyes twinkled.
"Well," he observed, "I guess the
rest of us drew some pretty clever
amateurs — what?"
The mother of the family stood in the
reception hall with her eyes fixed on the
applicant for a position. "Why were
you discharged from your last place?"
she asked. "Because I sometimes for-
got to wash the children, mem." "O
mother," came in chorus from the
children hanging over the stairs, "please
engage her!" ^ Household Words..
"I was talking to an Eastern clergyman
the other day about his church attend-
ance. T suppose,' I said, 'that in your
district rain affects the attendance
considerably.* He smiled faintly. 'In-
deed, yes' he said. 'I hardly have a
vacant seat when it is too wet for golf or
motoring." — Cleveland Leader.
147
148
AMERICAN COOKERY
The Rewards of Literature
"Did you make any money on your
last novel?" asked the writer's cl-ose
friend.
"Did I make any money?" echoed the
great novelist. "Well, I should say I
did! I sold that description of the
Palisades in Chapter 3 to the Quickline
Railroad for five thousand dollars. My
tribute to the Plaster de Paris Hotel in
New York, in Chapter 10, brought me
three thousand dollars from the hotel
people, and the United Resorts Limited
paid me another thousand for my rhap-
sody on the sunset in the Umpegog
Mountains, in Chapter 30, where the
hero takes her in his arms. What's left
of it I boil down into a short story and
get ten dollars for it. Did I make any
money? Well, now!"
Beating the Devil Around
There is an Irish priest in the Province
of Quebec who deserves to be popular, in
the opinion of the N. Y. Evening Post
Magazine. He is hail fellow well met
with every one in the village, asks for
contributions, and gets liberal ones,
from Protestants and Catholics alike.
One day a delegation of Baptists called
on him — men who had frequently con-
tributed to Father W.'s church — told
him they were going to erect a new
Baptist church, as the old one was too
small, and asked him to subscribe to the
fund.
"Well, boys," he said after a slight
hesitation, "you know my reHgion for-
bids my doing that, but I will give you
fifty dollars to help tear the old church
down." .
Warm Religion
In an Eastern city a pastor of a colored
Baptist church consulted a plumber and
steamfitter about the cost of putting in
a baptistry. The estimate was soon
furnished and the figure was regarded as
satisfactory.
"But," said the plumber, "this covers
only the tank and the water supply. Of
course, you will want some sort of ar-
rangement to heat the water."
But the colored pastor had a truly eco-
nomic mind, and his own ideas of religion
also, for he promptly dissented.
"You see," said he to the plumber, "I
don't low to baptize nobody in that
there baptistry what hain't got religion
enough to keep him warm."
An English barrister, arguing before
the criminal court, says Answers, re-
marked with much solemnity to the
presiding justice, "My lord, there is
honor among thieves." The justice
looked at him severely. "There is gold
in sea water," he replied, "but it cannot
be extracted in profitable quantities.
Go on, sir."
The Fulfilled Wish
A boarding school lad wrote to an
uncle for financial aid, and then, feel-
ing a bit shaky about the impression his
letter would make, added the following
postscript :
"P. S. Dear Uncle: I am so ashamed
to have asked you for this money that
I have run after the postman a long
way to ^et this letter back, but am
unable to catfch him. My only wish
now is that you will never get this letter.
"Your Loving Nephey,"
The uncle replied by return mail:
"My Dear Nephew: I am hastening
to make you happy by telling you that
your wish was granted. I never
received your letter.
"Your Loving Uncle."
While Abraham Lincoln was in
Springfield a fellow lawyer, who was
mainly supported by the other lawyers
of the town, became indebted to a
wealthy citizen for two dollars and fifty
cents. The rich man directed Mr.
Lincoln to bring suit. Lincoln was un-
willing, but his client insisted. Finally
Mr. Lincoln said, "Well, if you are
determined, my charge will be ten
ADVERTISEMENTS
A Luscious Peach Pie
D
ID you ever make a peach pie with Crisco? Try it! You'll find the crust flaky, tasty and so tender
that it seems to melt in your mouth — as delicious as the fruit it encloses. Best of all it is easily digested.
Crisco is a purely vegetable shortening. It is the rich cream of edible oil having neither taste nor odor,
so rich that its use in all pastry is a real aid to unusually appetizing results.
(risco
Many famous chefs depend exclusively upon Crisco for their finest pastries and over a million house-
wives afford convincing evidence of their own success with Crisco by enthusiastically giving it
preference.
Crisco- Made Peach Pie
A Pastry Recipe Every Housewife Should Carefully Preserve
iK cupfuls flour H cupful Crisco sliced fresh peaches
1 teaspoonful salt 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls water sugar
(Use accurate level measurements)
Sift the flour and salt and cut the Crisco into the flour with two knives until it is finely divided. Then add the
water sparingly, mixing it with a knife through the dry materials. Form into a dough, roll out on a floured
board, about yi inch thick. Use a light motion in handling the rolling pin, and roll from the center outward.
The Ciisco should be of a consistency such that when scooped out with a spoon it rounds up egg-shaped.
In the making of pastry it is advisable to use pastry flour. Brush over the lower crust with a little beaten
egg white before adding liie sliced fresh peaches. (The egg forms a hard surface between the crust and
juice but does not prevent crust from baking properly.) Sprinkle liberally with sugar. Bake in hot oven.
"The Whys of Cooking"
Janet McKenzie Hill's New Book Sent for Five 2-Cent Stamps
McKenzie Hill of the Boston Cooking School and editor of American Cookery is the author of
is addition to the Crisco Library. Every housewife needs it. Many of your own problems of
housekeeping will undoubtedly be found in the hundreds of vitally important questions that
are asked and answered. In addition you'll find 150 new recipes and the Story of Crisco.
Handsomely bound and illustrated in color. Simply write
"Send me 'Whys of Cooking' " and enclose five
2-cent stamps. Address Department A-8, The ^ _ ^^~v^ '.^
Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati, O.
Our other big book "A Calendar of
Dinners" is still sent for 10 cents in
stamps.
i
Buy advertised Goods — ^^Do'not accept substitute;?
149
150
AMERICAN COOKERY
dollars." The client paid the money
at once. After his departure Lincoln
went out of the office, returning in an
hour with an amused look. Asked what
pleased him, he said: "Well, I brought
the suit against and then hunted
him up and told him. I gave him half
of my ten dollars, and we went over to
the Squire's office, where he confessed
judgment and paid the bill." Mr.
Lincoln added that he saw no other way
"to make things so generally satis-
factory."
The ease with which all sorts of
trouble in civilian life can be blamed on
the war, gives a freshness to paragraphs
like these :
The new maid was entirely a war-time
makeshift, says The Treasury, and the
mistress bore with her patiently at first.
But on the third day she placed a very
unclean dinner plate on the table, and
patience broke down. "Really, Mary,
you might at least see that the plates are
clean." "Well, mum," Mary rejoined,
"I owns to them thumb marks, but
that dried mustard was there afore
I come."
While Jane, the new maid, was taking
her first lesson on arranging the dining-
table, some one in the basement kitchen
put something upon the dumb-waiter
below. "What's that noise?" asked
Jane quickly. "Why, that's the dumb-
waiter," responded her mistress.
"Well," said Jane, "he's a-scratchin' to
git out." — Collier's.
An Irishman, wishing to take a home-
stead, and not knowing just how to go
about it, sought information from a
friend. "Mike," he said, "you've taken
a homestead, an' I thought maybe ye
could tell me th' law concernin' how to
go about it." "Well, Dennis, I don't
remimber th' exact wordin' uv th' law,
but I can give ye th' manin' uv it.
Th' maning uv it is this : Th' governmint
is willin' t' bet ye 160 acres uv land agin
$14 thot ye can't live on it five years
without starvin' t* death." — Every-
body's Magazine.
Hon. Benjamin Kimball is said to
have complained to one of the butchers
at Gilford about the quality of meat
supplied, saying: "That lamb you sold
me must have been old enough to vote.
It was so tough I could hardly cut it."
"Oh," said the butcher, "that is nothing;
Tom Fuller said the last piece of meat
he bought of me was so tough he
couldn't get his fork into the gravy."
Little Millie's father and grandfather
were Republicans; and, as election drew
near, they spoke of their opponents with
ever-increasing warmth, never heeding
the little maid who was preparing for bed.
She cast a fearful glance across the room,
and whispered in a frightened voice:
"Oh, mamma, I'm afraid to go to bed.
I'm afraid there's a Democrat in the
closet." — Organizer.
Her mother had been trying to teach
little three-year-old Dorothy to spell
her own name, but met with poor
success. At last she scolded her, and
said that no one would think her very
smart if ^she couldn't spell her own
name. "Well," she exclaimed, "why
didn't you just call me a cat, and then it
would be easy to spell? Big names
make little girls tired."
A Canadian teacher fell heir to an
English estate of ^20,000. In the
lawyer's office the clerks made bets as to
how she would take it. One thought she
would scream, two were of opinion she
would burst into tears, two others
favored hysterics. Her reply to the
messenger was disconcerting: "I shall
finish my monthly report, hear these
spelling errors, whip two boys and be
at your office in forty minutes." —
Century.
ADVERTISEMENTS
Best for
Surfaces
'^'M
Keeps tHe
Bathtiilx
Sanitary
and will '
not Destroy _„
the Lustre _J
.^^S^;:
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
151
152
AMERICAN COOKERY
Delights of Food Eaten Al Fresco
(Continued from page 101)
the grassy lawns of the Bois were turned
into a convenient pasturage for Paris'
supply of butchers' meat on the hoof;
at which time flocks of sheep browsed
pastorally in the fashionable precincts
of the Pre Catalan's ample enclosure,
and Longchamps sporty cafe-restau-
rants looked blankly down upon thou-
sands of country beeves and cows
herded on the famous race-course. For-
tunately for Paris and all its world of
lovers this unpleasant phase passed
rapidly, and while eating al fresco has
naturally lost some of its accompanying
gayety, society, though much militar-
ized and somewhat shorn of its spark-
ling attractiveness, still flocks to a cool
repast in the umbrageous shades of its
beloved Bois much as it always did.
In an even livelier vein, and a more
unconventional manner, has the banal
habit of taking three meals a day been
diverted from a mere absorption of
sustenance into a popular amusement
for the versatile French through the
medium of numerous waterside eating
places which line the bosky banks of the
Seine as it wanders leisurely in many
winding loops through and around Paris
as if, like all the world, its silvery stream
was reluctant to leave the city.
The character and environment of
these Seine-side open-air restaurants
are designed to please the taste of the
French who, when they graft rural
pleasures on to their sophisticated
existences, demand that they be served
in an amusing and bizarre manner. For
this they flock joyously to these subur-
ban resorts, for the charm to them of
dining out of doors is to accomplish it in
some freak place in fantastic style, may-
be in a tiny rustic summerhouse with a
thatched roof of straw as on the farm,
in arbors perched high on wall, and
terraces overhanging the river, in imita-
tion boats and even in huts hung peril-
ously on the lower branches of trees, on
one or another of the many ilots which
dot the river below Billancourt.
Many of these aquatic resorts bear
fantastic appellations such as "Res-
taurant of the Miraculous Fishes," the
"Blue Pavilion," the "Boudoir Rose"
or the "Green Arbor," a colorful nomen-
clature to attract the throng for their
almost universal specialty of "friture de
la Seine,'' minnowy fish from the Seine,
grilled entire.
For the still more freakish, hilarious
form of dining in the trees, one climbs,
at "Robinson," into the branches of
great chestnuts where are set platforms
and tables lighted by swinging lanterns
to the blare of the calliopes of many
merry-go-rounds, open-air theatres and
side-shows of this popular amusement
ground of the Parisians.
No sooner does the guest appear at the
French country hotel than it is assumed
that he wishes to take his meals in the
open, whatever outdoor dining-room the
hotel may afford. If it be not demanded
by those wise in French customs, it is
usually artfully suggested as one of the
chief attractions the house has to offer.
The little bonne, or gar con, most oblig-
ingly hurries to spread the table, bring-
ing everything necessary many steps
across from the pantry with never a
thought of objecting to the extra labor
involved, looking upon it as a part of the
summer routine of work. It cools the
plates, some one complains. May be —
a trifle. No enjoyment is perfect. But
in the French country hotel they are now
beginning to take notice that les et-
rangers must have hot plates from which
to eat their food, though one is cool
oneself, quite as important adjuncts to a
good repast as anything could possible
be, and amusing. After, all is this not
what one goes a- journeying for?
French country hotels are well ad-
apted to this pleasant custom, fre-
quently being built around a central
courtyard, often a garden enclosing
shade-trees and neatly gravelled walks,
around which are set rows of little iron
ADVERTISEMENTS
Only the best and purest malt
vinegar-made in our own brewer-
ies, on the banks of the River
Stour, Worcestershire,
England -is used.
It takes over two years of careful preparation
and ageing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour
A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither
was Holbrook's Sauce
"It i« better to use no
sauce at all than a sauce
that is not Holbrook's."
HOLBROOKS
^RSHIRE
Many new treat
for the table
AaS*»J
Kornlet is a table treat the nov-
elty of which does not wear off.
Scores of the most appetizing new
dishes can be quickly prepared with
it — soup, pudding, custards, frit-
ters, gems and other delicious
dishes. It is highly nourishing.
Kornlet is the concentrated,
creamy extract from the juicy
kernels of plump, young, green
sweet corn. Being like an extract,
it "goes" a long way.
The Kornlet recipe
folder
oflfers really new and
helpful suggestions.
Write for free copy.
Grocers sell Kornlet, 25^
The Haserot Canneries
Company
Dept. 2 Cleveland, Ohio
A^
p REMO -y ESCO
Whips Thin Cream
Heavy cream is especially undesir-
able in summer. A product
heavy in fats condemns itself
as a hot weather food.
Your family wants ice cream, mousse,
parfaits, sherbets, sponges and all gela-
tine dainties. Healthful, delicious and
economical made from thin cream or half
heavy cream and milk with
;Y'ESCO
QREMO -'^
A 25 cent bottle may be used for the average
size family 50 times. If your grocer does not
carry it send 25 cents in stamps for a bottle to-
day. A 16 ounce bottle whips 75 quarts of thin
cream, $1.00 prepaid.
Cremo-Vesco Company
631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
153
154
AMERICAN COOKERY
tables and chairs — the sort of thing the
French call "garden furniture." Or the
tables may be set under gay, striped
umbrellas which contrast prettily with
the green foliage, or in little bosquets —
summer-houses smothered in ivy or
roses, where the diners will be assured of
as much privacy as in a salon particulier
in the Elysee Palace Hotel.
It is this sort of thing one finds so often
in Normandy, in the little wayside inn
of some famous touring centre of this
most charming of old French provinces,
where one hears English — of a kind —
spoken quite as much as the native
language. At night one dines in a little
bower under electric lights swung
through the shrubbery, which glows
supernaturally and gives a stage-lighted
effect to the little garden and its diner,
who may be in full dinner dress, if at one
of the famous inns — cradles of history
and romance which line the Normandy
coast, and of which the Hostellerie of
Guillaume le Conquerant is certainly the
most famous — the favored rallying place
of the French for the sole amusement of
dining out of doors in a manner ''si bien
Francaise.''
It may be that the little hotel boasts
only of a cobble-stoned courtyard, as is
frequently found in other parts of
France, but,- nevertheless, it will be
utilized for an open air dining-room
most appropriately; walls, otherwise un-
sightly, are clothed with a trellis of
green-painted lattice which serves as a
frame for clambering vines, the whole
bounded on three sides by the cuisine,
the "offices" and the remise, or stable,
now most likely modernized into a
garage, in contrast to its ancient
functions. Here one may dine in com-
pany, as it were, with one's automobile,
and the country carts that keep it
company are of an epoch contemporary
with the cabriolets of the days of the
"Sentimental Traveller." The family
of cats, or the household dog look on in
friendly fashion and attach themselves
to the diners as possible recipients of an
expected bounty, and are rarely disap-
pointed. There may be cages of singing
birds hung about, trilling accompani-
ments to the clatter of knives and forks,
or perhaps a gaudy parrot that shrilly
calls out ''bon jour," or a soft-cooing
wood-pigeon hidden in a leafy corner;
for the French adore pets, and they
add much to the lively setting of the
outdoor salle a manger.
There are numbers of these pictur-
esque little wayside inns tucked away
in unpretentious, half -hidden nooks
throughout the French countryside,
many of which have been hallowed as
the stage-settings of recent popular
novels, as, for instance, Tarkington's
"Guest of Quesnay," Chamber's "Girl
Philippa," Blanche Willis Howard's
"Quenn," Locke's "Beloved Vagabond"
et als. But they are all alike; one
would have done as well as another,
though they were all real, the character-
istics, and details varying little from
the simplicity and excellence of French
standards. The reality only goes to
make their halo of romance more
brilliant.
There are innumerable charmingly
antique roadhouses dating from the days
of the poste-chaise, the berlin-de-voyage
and the coach-and-four, about whose
ancient doorways are to be seen gathered
today, even in spite of the war, auto-
mobiles of all marques and of all lands,
sought out by a cosmopolitan clientele,
not alone because of their attractiveness
replete with souvenirs of other days, but
for the pleasurable variety they offer
the devotee of this French sport of
eating in the open air.
In this category belongs the fame
of the Hostellerie Guillaume le Con-
querant, so widely reputed that it
brings the touring world up to its quaint
timbered Norman gateway in throngs,
the same from which, legend tells, that
William the Conqueror set out when he
led the hardy Normans to raise his
standard of the twin leopards over
English soil. This not alone for the
ADVERTISEMENTS
/f^^^.-jr'
Look at the label
on your Vanilla
bottle
^:
# ^
6/
In some poor seasons the
oanilla plantations yield
no genuine first quality
beans. At such times no
beans are bought for Bur-
nett's Vanilla because it
must contain only the choic-
est of the crop. Enough
is kept in reserve to hold
to its standard of quality
when the crop so fails.
Vanilla Ice Cream
Heat V2 pint of milk in double
boiler and dissolve in it ^A cup
of sugar. When cool add a pint
of cream slightly whipped — and
then two teaspoonfuls of Bur-
nett's Vanilla. Alix thoroughly
and freeze in the usual fashion.
This makes one quart.
^
It probably reads *'pure" vanilla
— it certainly should. But if it
does, are you helped much?
Good flour is '*pure'' wheat —
/ and so is poor flour; good coffee
is *'pure''— and so is much very
i bad coffee. Different countries
"^ produce many kinds of Vanilla
beans — good, bad and indiffer-
ent — all ''pure'' vanilla. But
in only one spot in the world is
the vanilla bean brought to its
.'.^% final pitch of perfection — the
mountain valleys of Mexico.
Here only are grown, gathered
and cured the beans that make
It is certainly worth while to use a vanilla extract with
so rare and exquisite a flavor that even plain desserts
become a treat. As for. the heights which can la
reached by using Burnett's in more elaborate dishes — •
ask anyone who uses it — probably your Mother does.
DESSERT BOOK — FREE
Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy of "115
Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful.
Joseph Burnett Company
36 India St., Boston, Mass.
Buy advertised Goodt
- Do not accept substitutes
155
156
AMERICAN COOKERY
pleasure of admiring and coveting its
antiques housed under the ancient
black-timbered roof -tree which has shel-
tered so many distinguished heads in its
thousand years of existence, as for the
cachet of a luncheon, or a dinner which
the guests are privileged to order them-
selves in the sombre, time-mellowed
kitchen hung about with a marvelous
and authentically valuable batterie de
cuisine of glittering old coppers and
brasses and brightly colored faience.
At an appreciable interval later the
specially cooked repast will be served
in the inn's quaint garden courtyard
against a background of clambering
roses and honeysuckle interspersed with
many a bit of rare old sculpture and
time-hallowed relics. This is a savantly
composed meal from a cuisine of the
ultra-premier-class, set upon a stage
garlanded with choice flowers, amid a
charming present as well as a most
romantic past.
Another of these country inns of the
class is that of "La Belle Ernestine,"
which, though but a farmhouse many
generations old, folded away discreetly
in one of the tiny pastoral valleys that
lie among the white cliffs of the Norman
sea coast, has nevertheless a reputation
as a literary and artistic shrine the envy
of much more worldly and pretentious
hostelries.
For more than half a century it has
been presided over by its peasant
mistress — Ernestine, and has been the
gathering place of the most brilliant
of the grand flambeaux of French art
and letters. Its few modest rooms are
filled to overflowing with the priceless
souvenirs of genius, presented to the
chatelaine who, though snowy locks now
gleam from under her Norman coiffe,
still deserves the sobriquet of her
admirers of long ago — *7a belle Ernes-
tine ^
Today the most worldly and frivolous,
as well as art lovers, consider it a
privilege to go miles off the beaten
track of restless latter-day wanderings.
in order to dine a la campagne, seated on
backless benches at a long table covered
with coarse country linen — and at a
stiff price too — in the garden of the inn j
which has ever been known as "la Belle I
Ernestine" (in default of any other
name,) amid a wealth of old-fashioned
flowers in which once Dumas, Flaubert,
Isabey, Corot and others of their con-
temporaries bred golden bon mots be-
tween sips of golden Norman cider and
the degustation of "la belle Ernestine's"
specious cuisine.
These are only a few of the more
widely known of French inns whose
out-in-the-open dining-rooms are
known to all good gourmets. They can
be discovered in countless beauty dim-
ples that peep out from the fair face of
France, from Brittany to Finistere and
from Biarritz to Boulogne.
Rev. Russell Day, a famous Eton
master, once ordered a boy to stay after
school; but, when the hour came, he
himself was in a better temper. "What
may your name be?" Mr. Day asked of
the prepositor. "Cole, sir," replied the
boy. "Then, my friend," said Mr. Day,
' ' I think you had better scuttle . "
Mrs. Exe: "You always have such
wonderful success in getting people to
come to your parties." Mrs. Wye: "Oh,
I always tell the men that it's not to
be a dress-up affair, and the women that
it is." — Boston Transcript.
p-The Daily Use in the Home of —
Vlatts Chlorides .
TbeOdorlessDisinfectant.
Is not a Luxury but
a Necessity
It Protects Health and
Prevents Sickness
Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Everywhere
ADVERTISEMENTS
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
Which
is Better
for the Boy
Forced Exercise
or Fun ?
Apply your answer to oat food.
Oat food is also important. It is food for growth. It is rich in
brain and nerve needs. It has for ages been the marvel vim-food.
In some homes it is forced. It is made a duty but not a luxury.
Yet Nature lavishes on oats her rarest charm and flavor.
In some homes the oat dish is a dainty. Its flakes are made of
big, rich grains, unmixed with puny, starved oats.
Those housewives have discovered Quaker Oats.
Men and women, boys and girls, revel in this oat dish. The food
they need is the food they want. And they eat it in abundance, as
they should.
Quaker Oats
Energy^ Food Made Delightful
Quaker Oats is not a doctored oat
food. No flavor is added, nor is
Nature's flavor altered. Man can't
improve on that.
We simply pick out the plump grains,
the full-grown, luscious oats. Two-
thirds of the oats are rejected as not
good enough for Quaker.
Find out the result — it will pay you.
Look into the package — see the big,
white flakes. Cook them and note the
aroma. Taste them and note the
superlative flavor.
There are few food problems more
important than getting dehghtful oat
food. And it costs you no extra price.
10c and 25c per package
Except in Far West and South
illlllllllllllll
A $2.50 Aluminum Cooker
Made to our order, extra large and heavy, to cook Quaker Oats in the ideal way. Send us five
trade-marks — the picture of the Quaker — cut from the fronts of five Quaker Oats packages.
Send $1.00 with them, and this double cooker will be sent by parcel post.
Address: The Quaker Oats Company, 1708 Railway Exchange, Chicago
llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllli
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
157
158
AMERICAN COOKERY
Simplified Bungalow Life
(Continued from page 117)
relentless one hundred and two meals.
If there are several members of the
family of workable age, let each have
a part in the daily routine without
regard to sex. The cook should be the
honored official of the household, and
will do well to refuse absolutely to
prepare vegetables, wash dishes or
wait on table. Exempted from these
duties the cooking need not be such a
torturous process, even on a hot day.
Let there be a correlation of shelling
peas or stringing beans with hand
embroidery, for one can be made as
cultural an occupation as the other.
Try the experiment of converting the
front porch, that time-honored ren-
dezvous of the family, into a household
arts and crafts shop, and let as many of
the kitchen industries be plied there as
possible. The average boy would as
ai iiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiii iiimii iiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii g
Hose
Supporter
for Women, Misses and Children,
including the Baby.
The OBLONG Rubber Button Cljisp
is a sure protection for the stocking
Holds Without Holes!
Ask at your Store or send 15c for Chil-
dren's Pin-ons (give age) or 50c for
Women's and Misses* Sew-ons (four).
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON
illllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Illllllllllllllllllllllllllllir.
soon whittle beans as sticks, and a little
rather, if he thought his dinner depended
on it; and is there not quite enough
science and industrial chemistry in the
making of a good cake to command his
respect and interest? I think there is.
Boys make quite as good waiters as
girls, and sometimes better. Recently
at a bungalow house-party I saw a very
promising young doctor "clear up" the
dishes after a festive dinner in so pro-
fessional a fashion as to put to shame the
average housewife, and snatch the
laurels from our "Domestic Scientists."
Conserve these natural resources of
splendid power and efficiency in your
own household and let them settle the
help problem during your vacation.
Think what it would mean to many a
"kitchenless" maiden or hall-room boy
to come face to face with a cook stove
or a dish pan! It means racial develop-
ment along the basic lines.
Ten-year-old James takes his father
as a delightful joke, and does not al-
ways mind him promptly. One day
his mother listened at the top of the
stairs. "James," said the father's voice,
"do what I tell you!" The boy looked
up and grinned. His mother smiled
and awaited the outcome. "Jim," said
the father, solemnly, "you do what I
told you, or" — he lowered his voice —
"I'll sick your mother onto you!"
The following letter is a rare example :
"My Darling Peggy, — I met you last
night, and you never came! I'll meet
you again to-night, whether you come
or whether you stop away. If I'm
there first, sure I'll write my name on
the gate to tell you of it; and, if it's
you that's first, why rub it out, darling,
and no one will be the wiser. I'll never
fail to be at the trystin'-place, Peggy;
for, faith, I can't keep away from the
spot where you are, whether you're
there or whether you're not. Your
own, Mike."
ADVERTISEMENTS
It^s easy Baking
in this transparent
Oven Ware
miiiiiiiHiiiiiiHiHiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHiniiHiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiniiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHiiiimiiiniiiiiiimimiiiiiiii^
Use Pyrex in any oven. It does not crack, chip
nor craze.
Pyrex does not absorb odors. It is easily washed,
is sanitary and durable.
i^y^MPiy
Trade Mark Registered
Baking Ware
Has the name on every piece
Food bakes quickly in Pyrex, hence retains its flavor.
You can see the food through the dish while it bakes — the bottom
as well as the top — and you serve in the same dish.
Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 15 c. to large casseroles at $2.
Your house-wares dealer sells Pyrex. Ask him for booklet.
CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave., Corning, N.Y., U.S.A.
J V,
.A._
<^^^'
-=■
Casserole
Oblong Bread Pan
Petite Marmite
Oval All Gratin
iniimiiniiiniiiniiiiHiiiiiiinuiiiiiuHHHiiiiiiHiiiiiimiHinmiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHwiiiiiiHUHHiniHuniiiiiiiimn
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes'
159
AMERICAN COOKERY
TRY
Sea Moss Farine
FOR
Hot Weather Delicacies
ICE CREAM, LEMONADE,
ORANGEADE, PUNCH,
FRUIT SOUPS.
Delicious Ice Cream, the velvety kind but
without that greasiness which pure cream
gives, is made with Sea Moss Farine. Try
this recipe :
I cup sugar 06
y^ teaspoonful Sea Moss Farine 00%
I quart milk 09
sprinkle of salt and flavor ■■• .00%
Makes \V2 Quarts good ice cream for .16
This is tasty, wholesome and cheap. A
more expensive grade is produced by
adding sweet cream or eggs if French Ice
Cream is desired.
Sea Moss Lemonade is better than tea,
coffee or alcoholic drinks. To the tired
man, woman or child, Sea Moss Farine
beverages will be found both satisfying
and nourishing. Try some at night before
retiring. You will sleep better and awake
refreshed.
I cup sugar 06
% teaspoonful Sea Moss Farine ooMi
Put into pint cold water with thin peel
of one lemon and cup lemon juice .10
Total cost only... .i6y2
These and many other recipes are found in
Mrs. Lemcke's Recipe Book, " Seventy -five
Tempting Dishes. ' ' Send for your copy and
sample of Sea Moss Farine, both FREE.
25 cents at good Grocers
or by mail direcft.
LYON MANUFACT'NG CO.,
38 South Fifth Street,
BROOKLYN, N.Y.
How to Fertilize
THE soil in the average back yard
is not only lacking in plant food
but also has been packed until it is hard
and unyielding. To loosen up such
soil and make it suitable for garden
produce requires that careful attention
be given to its preparation. After
spading the inclosure thoroughly, the
upper three inches should be made fine
with the use of hoe and rake. Stones
and rubbish should be removed and
clods of dirt broken. The surface
should be made even and as level as
possible. It may then be marked off
for planting in conformity with the
general plan of the garden.
Barnyard or stable manure is the best
fertilizer because it furnishes both plant
food and humus. An application at the
rate of from 20 to 30 tons to the acre of
well-rotted manure is very satisfactory.
This should be applied after plowing or
working with a spade, and distributed
evenly over the surface and later worked
in with a hoe and rake. On many soils
it is advisable to apply commercial fer-
tilizer, especially phosphate, in addition
to the manure. An application of 300
to 600 pounds of acid phosphate to the
acre is usually sufficient. If additional
potash is needed, which is often the
case with sandy soils, this may be eco-
nomically supplied in the form of wood
ashes. If the wood ashes are unleached
they should be distributed over the gar-
den, using 1,000 pounds to the acre. If
they have been wet, or leached, 2,000
pounds should be used. An appli-
cation of 100 pounds to the acre of
nitrate of soda may be used in the spring
to start the plants before the nitrogen in
the manure has become available. It
should be borne in mind that commercial
fertilizers will not yield good results
unless the soil is well supplied with
humus. Sod or other vegetation which
has overgrown a garden spot may be
used to advantage. It should be turned
under with a plow or a spade and will
aid in lightening the soil and providing
humus.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
160
ADVERTISEMENTS
i
RICE ICE CREAM with NABISCO
Boil two and one-half tablespoonf uls of rice
in a pint of milk with ihree-fourths cf a
cupful of sugar, a pinch ot salt, and a split
vanilla bean until tender. Rub through a
sieve and when cold add one-half cupful of
chopped almonds, one-fourth cupful of 6ne
sugar, one pint of whipped cream and two
stifHy beaten whites of eggs. Freeze and
serve in sherbet glasses with Nabisco.
WHEN desserts are served, Nabisco Sugar Wafers
should accompany them as a matter of course, for
these exquisite confections add the final touch of delicious-
ness to ice creams, frozen puddings or ^vater ices.
The recipe for Rice Ice Cream given above is original. It
was created especially for use vvith Nabisco, so the hostess
who serves Rice Ice Cream and Nabisco at her next
"at home" will furnish a delightful surprise to her guests.
Nabisco Sugar Wafers are sold in ten-cent and twenty-five-cent tins.
ANOLA — Another sugar- wafer confection.
Serve anjrwhere, any time, with any dessert.
NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
161
AMERICAN COOKERY
No. 351
On every
piece "
A beautiful comport for jellies
bon-tons, salted nuts ^relishes
At your dealer's, or $1.00 delivered East of the Missouri
River. $1.25 delivered West of the Missouri River,
Florida, Maine and Canada.
A. H. HEISEY & CO., Dept. 56, Newark, O.
Write /or illustrated booklet
iHEI5EY'5i
iGLASEiWAREi
rOR- TME • TABLE
Prejudice Gives Way To
Knowledge
Old prejudices, fostered by
the extensive campaigns of
advertising conducted by the
Baking Powder Tiust, against
baking powder containing
alum, have been swept from the
minds of thinking people by the
publication of the Report on
Alum in Foods, issued as Bulle-
tin No. 103 of the U.S. Depart,
ment of Agriculture.* This report
is made by the Referee Board of
Consulting Scientific Experts.
Prof. IraRemsen, (John Hopkins Univ. )
Chairman.
Dr. John D. Long, (Northwestern Univ.)
Prof. Theobald Smith, (Harvard Univ.)
Prof. Alonzo E.Taylor, (Univ.of Penn.)
Dr. Russell H. Chittenden, (Sheffield
Scientific School of Yale Univ.)
The conclusion of the Remsen Board, has once
and for all, put an end to the foolish claims that
alum is either injurious or unwholesome as an
ingredient in baking powder.
* Complete copy C professional paper) may be procured from the
Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Wash-
in9:ton, D. C, at five cents per copy.
CALUMET
BAKI NG POWDER
Women's Club and Shakespeare's
Centenary
A literary club was recently organized
by women in a suburban town, not
specified by the N. Y. Times-Maga-
zine, which relates the story. For a
while everything went along beautifully.
One evening, while the Browns were
having dinner, Mr. Brown asked:
''Well, Inez, did you have a pleasant
meeting at your club this afternoon?"
"Oh, yes, dear," replied Mrs. Brown,
with great enthusiasm. "It was really
a splendid meeting. About the best
we have had, I think."
"Indeed," said the husband, who
was not a firm believer in women's
clubs, "what was the topic under dis-
cussion to-day?"
Mrs. Brown couldn't seem to re-
member at first. Finally, however,
she exclaimed triumphantly:
"Oh, yes, I remember! We discussed
that brazen-looking woman with red
hair that's just moved in across the
street, and Shakespeare."
Raisin Bread
% cup sugar
4 tablespoonfuls lard (h*
butter
f cup raisins
1 teaspoonful salt
1 cake compressed
yeast
1 cup lukewarm water
1 cup milk, scalded
and cooled
6 cups sifted flour
Dissolve yeast and one tablespoonful
sugar in lukewarm liquid, add two
cups of flour, the lard or butter and
sugar well-creamed, and beat until
smooth. Cover and set aside to rise
in a warm place, free from draft, until
light — about one and one-half hours.
When well-risen, add raisins well-floured
the rest of the flour to make a soft
dough, and lastly the salt. Knead
lightly. Place in well-greased bowl,
cover and let rise again until double
in bulk — about one and one-half hours.
Mould into loaves, fill well-greased
pans half full, cover and let rise until
light — about one hour. Glace with
^%g diluted with water, and bake
forty-five minutes.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
162
ADVERTISEMENTS
n
— ior every recipe
Whenever a recipe calls for milk
use Carnation Milk
You always add its quality to your
cooking and baking. It makes bet-
ter-flavored food; it is convenient
and economical to use. Carnation
Milk is the only milk supply your
home needs.
Add an equal amount of pure water
to Carnation Milk and you "bring it
back" to its original state, with the
added betterment of purity and
safety. If you have been using
skimmed milk for cooking, simply add
more water to reduce the richness.
Carnation Milk is convenient, eco-
nomical, safe. Buy it of your
grocer — "the Carnation Milkman."
Order two or three cans now — try it
— and let your own experience with
it convince you that it answers the
milk question.
Our new recipe book gives over 100 every-
day and special uses. Write for a free copy to
CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS
COMPANY
858 Stuart Bldg., Seattle, U.S.A.
Ask your grocer— "the Carnation Milkman'
^
mi"3n®ia
r^yr^Ty
Maajk
^^ii.<:^i.A.jyi^^mikM
The answer to the mtlk question
W<, BRAND ■ t
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
163
AMERICAN COOKERY
llllllll
A
Mokist
Lemon
Does This —
Polishing Glassware.
To clean glass to a
sparkle, wash in cold
water to which Sunkist
Lemon juice has been
added. Do not use hot
water or soap.
— and This
Taking Out Stains.
Moisten stained goods with
cold water. Lay in the sun,
squeeze on few drops of
Sunkjst Lemon juice. Let it
dry and repeat till stain is
gone. For iron rust and ink
stains or mildew add pinch of
salt. Only for white goods.
Cleansing Kitchen-
ware. Save Sunkist
Lemon rinds from which
juice has been squeezed and
use to remove grease from
pots, pans, dishes and sinks.
Rub your hands with pulp
side of rind after washing
dishes. This whitens and
softens the skin.
— and many other things
California's Selected Lemons j
Practically Seedless 1
These are the world's best lemons, chosen M
for quality and color. Picked by gloved hands, J
scrubbed -mith brushes, and shipped to your g
dealer in sanitary tissue xorappers^ g
Don't order merely "lemons' ' which cost the J
same when you can get juicy, tart, clean "Sun- g
kist." All first-class dealers sell them. g
CALIFORNIA FRUIT GROWERS EXCHANGE |
Co-operative — Non-profit ^
Dept. B 74. Los Angeles, Calif. M
(573) g
Reading the Dictionary
Mr. Rudyard Kipling finds both pleas-
ure and profit in reading the dictionary,
and this habit largely accounts for his
wonderful knowledge of words, his rich
vocabulary and his newness in the use
of words. He does not confine himself
to the ordinary dictionary. He likes
to look at a slang edition or a dictionary
of a dialect.
There is a certain noble lord who
loves nothing better than turning over
the pages of Bradshaw, spying out all
the ways to anywhere, all the branch
lines, and noting the railway stations
with queer names. He is an adept in
all railway lore, and is often referred to
by his brother peers when a moot point
is raised about the iron roads of the
world, for his knowledge extends from
Charing Cross to New York, via Yoko-
hama.
A great fondness for the Encyclope-
dia Britannica characterizes a well-
known and popular novelist. He will
often be found sitting in his delightful
old-world garden reading an article on
navigation or aeronautics. He confesses
that generally he takes down a volume
at random and reads on the same prin-
ciple, only occasionally deliberately
choosing a topic.
But probably the queerest literary
hobby was a certain doctor's predilec-
tion for reading an old file of the Times.
He said it made him better contented
with things at present to see how things
were muddled up 20 years ago. He
found the politicians just as quarrelsome
and the comments just as caustic, and
yet he concluded:
"Here we are, much as usual!" —
London Answers.
Fairly Won
**Mr. Wombat seems very sure of his
wife's love."
"He has every right to. Theirs was a
highbrow courtship, and he won out in
a competitive contest comprising seven
exhaustive papers." — Kansas City Jour-
nal.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
164
ADVERTISEMENTS
After the Walk
-gour first and best thought is
Oftenest thought of for its deliciousness
— highest thought of for its wholesome-
ness. Refreshing and thirst-quenching.
Demand the genuine by full name —
nicknames encourage substitution.
•,a
nm
Buy advertised Goods — ^Do not accept substitutes
165
AMERICAN COOKERY
Saves
Time
Saves
Trouble
Saves
Money
This Single Damper is the greatest Time,
Trouble and Money Saving device ever
put in a stove. You get it only in
(r& wlord
Saves
Time
Saves
Trouble
Saves
Money
Because one motion of the always-
cool knob regulates fire and oven
instantly. Bakes — Checks —
Kindles.
Because it makes good cooking a
habit. There can be no scorched
or underdone food due to an un-
certain oven. Even heat always.
Because it makes the fire serve your
wish. You get the heat where and
when you want it. Less coal —
less expense.
It will be a good lesson in scientific cookery for
you to investigate the Single Damper and 1 9
other distinctive Crawford advantages.
Sold by Leading Dealers
Walker & Pratt Mfg. Co.
Makers of Highest Quality
Ranges, Furnaces and Boilers
Boston^ U. S. A.
Among the latest devices which have
been drav^n to our attention can be
mentioned the "Easy Freezer," which
is a simple apparatus for the making
of ice cream.
This freezer is a very simple affair,
economical, and attractive in appear-
ance. It consists of a small container
or jar with an enameled white finish,
inside of which is the depository for
the cream, either a quart or half-
gallon size around which is packed
about two cents' worth of ice and a
quantity of salt. The latter in turn,
is surrounded by an air space. As
the ice and salt melt an intense cold
is created and the cream is frozen solid
in half an hour's time. The ice is
pulverized until it is about the size
of lump sugar — and a small quantity
of dry and clean salt is used, commonly
known as ice cream salt, or rock salt.
All metal parts coming in contact with
the cream are heavily tinned and the
freezer in every way is absolutely sani-
tary and hygienic.
We have an
Attractive
Proposition
to make to those who will take sub-
scriptions for
American Gookery
Write us for it if you wish to canvass
your town or if you wish to secure
only a few names among your friends
and acquaintances. Start the work
at once and you will be surprised how
easily you can earn ten, twenty or
fifty dollars.
Address
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT
Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
166
ADVERTISEMENTS
'•> v»-
'^r^s-
Pineapple Tapioca
Boil ]/2 cup Minute Tapioca, Yz cup
of sugar, and a pinch of salt in 4
cups of water till clear Remo\e
from fire and add 1 cup pineapple
grated or chopped with \, cup of
sugar Ser\e with cream This
IS shown serv ed on a slice of canned
pineapple with whipped cream and
whole nut on top.
Raspberry Tapioca
Cook for fifteen minutes in a double
boiler }/2 cup Minute Tapioca Yy
cup sugar, 1 teaspoon butter and
3 cups of hot water Crush 1 pint
raspberries, 'sweeten to ta'^te and
let stand one-half hour Take the
tapioca from the fire and stir in the
fruit vSet in a cool place It
should be ser\ed \er\ cold This
dessert is delicious scr\ed with
whipped cream Shown
in sherbet glass.
Neapolitan Jelly
DissoUe 2 en\ elopes Minute Gela-
tine and 1 cup sugar in 2 cup^ of
bo'ling water Divide into three
parts Color one part pink and
favor with rose Leave one part
Rhite and flavor with lemon The
third part color with dissolved
cocoa Beat each part as it begins
to jell and mold separate flavors
in after-dinner coffee cups or small
molds Serve as shown with
whipped cream and whole nuts
Gold Medal of Honor, Highest
Award at Panama-Pacific Ex-
position, Awardetl Minute
Tapioca and Minute Gelatine.
Send for Minute Cook Book
Containing Recipes for
124 Delicious
Desserts
Measured
for use
You can always be sure that ISrinute
Gelatine is going to stiffen. It is put up
in envelopes, each containing the right amount for
a pint of jelly. Dissolves quickly in boiling water,
hot milk or broth.
There are a host of ways to serve Minute Gelatine — ■
in Salads, Puddings, Pies and Jellies. Dishes made
^\lth it are tempting to the taste and attractive to the
eye. The Minute Cook Book tells you all about
these. With this Book we will send you a
sample package of Minute Gelatine,
enough for a dessert for
4 persons.
Requires
No Soaking
Minute Tapioca saves time It
cooks in 15 minutes PriLe ISc for
full size 10-oz package nidkmii si\ quaits
of pudding or 12 generous desserts for the aver-
age familv Recipes showing how v ou can make
a large \arietv of 15-minute delicious desserts
are in the Mmute Cook Book Send for it to-
dav With Minute Gelatine and Alinute Tapioca
in the house, v ou can alvvav s prepare a tcmptinE;
dessert on 'Jhort notice Kindlv mention > our
giocer's name m writing for the book.
MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY
808 E. Main St., Orange, Mass.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
167
AMERICAN COOKERY
I f'w
MAKES PERFECT ICE CREAM WITHOUT WORK OR
MESS — NO SALT CAN GET IN CREAM
Fill cream space with ingredients — pack ice space with
chopped ice and salt — that's all. Science does the work
y6u formerly did turning the handle, producing smooth ice
cream in 30 minutes.
The Easy Freezer has only three simple, heavily enamelled, easy to clean
parts. No water soaked bucket to handle — ^no complicated locking devices
to rust, freeze tight or get out of order.
The Easy Freezer is made in one and two quart sizes and in white and
olive green finish. It is the simplest of all freezers.
No Handle To Turn
Get your Easy Freezer now — enjoy the pleasure
of frozen desserts as often as you like without work
or trouble.
If your dealer cannot supply you, send us S2.50 for 1-quart size, or
$3.50 for 2-quart size; specify white or green finish — we'll send it,
all charges prepaid. Add 50c to price for all points west of Rockies.
Write for FREE Descriptive Booklet.
WM. A. SEXTON COMPANY, 3775 Grand Central Terminal, New York
^-^ TRAot "*»•«_, , ,. , 1 1 • r r 1
f TMf TCf T A I Dinner and Luncheon Menus containing 183 recipes.
U W UDU AL Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deUv-
ered32c. Address King's Daughters Society, 2320 E. l8tSt..Dulnth,Minn.
Fa:,. Jv« leugLlieiis Lhe life of hosiery,
yROTEGTOE v'enSCre"rsr.?^^'S-
1 apply. Can be used on silk, cotton or ^^^
.4 woolen hose. Perfectly harmless. Send ^^^
15c. for trial size and special offer of one.^^^
lar^e package to help introduce it. Agents wanted.
W. F.MiUlen Lab.. Dept.A. 3853 St. Louis Ave., St.Louis.
Domestic Science
Home-Study Covirses
Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children.
For Homemakers, Teachers and for
well-paid positions.
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins: ''Free Hand
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents.
' Five Cent Meals," 10 cents.
AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69ih St., CHICAGO
POMPEIAN
OLIVE OIL
ALVS^AYS FRESH
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME
1
I want to put a White Frost ... , < r .....^c^ ^.^ „ i^oi..^ -_ dial. Postal brin::^
free catalog. Tell me what style you like best. Send no money— i mu pay
freight — so you can find out what a real refrigerator is like. Send it back at
my expense if I am wrong. I make the only round metal refrigerator in the
world. I have no dealers, but sell direct to you. You can buy a vv hite !> rost
on easy terms while enjojing its beauty, sanitation, ice economy ana moaern
improvements. Enameled snowy-white inside and out; revolving shelves;
cork-cushioned floors and covers — noiseless and air tight. Cooling coil for
drinking water new feature. Nickel trimmings. Move-easy
casters. Many features found in no other refrigerator.
Awarded Gold Medal at Panama-Pacific Exposition. Lasts a
lifetime. Immediate delivery.
Handsome catalog and factory prices yours for a postal.
H. L. Smith, President
^.'HITE FROST REFRIGERATOR COMPANY
. hanic St. Jackson, Michigan
H. L. Smith,
President
ITHE GRILST
WhiteFfost
SANITARY
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
168
ADVERTISEMENTS
THE CALL OF THE WISE
"HELLO Mr. Grocer! For Goodness Sake send me
STICKNEY & POOR'S
STANDARD VANILLA
I want no other kind." That is the familiar call these days.
Stickney & Poor's Flavoring Extracts are sold in popular 10c and
20c sizes. They are made with conscientious care, of the choicest
materials and absolutely pure. The guarantee of a factory with
over a hundred years' reputation for high grade manufacturing is
sufficient for everybody who knows Stickney & Poor goods. For
Goodness Sake, when you order Flavorings say "Stickney&Poor's"
to your grocer. Yonr Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT."
STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY
ISlS-Centary Old— Century Honored- -1916 .,
BOSTON. MASS.
Condensed
MILK
Is ''Eagle Brand'' Good
for Cooking?
Indeed it is! Thousands of women who pride
themselves on their skill in cooking use it when
they want their cakes and puddings to be especially
smooth and delicate. Use it just as you would
fresh milk in every recipe that calls for milk and
sugar. It keeps well — even in hottest weather.
"Eagle Brand" is the milk that has brought
three generations of babies safely through their
first year. It may be just the food your baby needs.
BORDENS
— that is thename
to remember
when you buy
milk or milk pro-
ducts.
An Efficient Pure Food Dessert.
life
^
In the story of Daddy Long Legs when Judy is writing about the happiness of her college
she tells of having Junket for supper.
The Junket Folks also have another pure food product called tSSSfMH If Judy had had
MESfMH for her supper no doubt she would have written her
dear Daddy Long Legs about the ease with which it is made.
The sugar and flavoring are already added, nothing but warm
milk necessary to make flESfMFi pudding.
Ice Cream made with KBSIMH is heakhful, economical, and
delicious.
CHOCOLATE KESRliF3 PUDDING
One Quart Milk. One 10 cent Package Chocolate ClESMdH
Heat one quart of milk luke -warm, remove from stove and pour into it
one 10 cent package of Chocolate Nesnah. Stir for one half minute, pour
into small glass cups and let stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes or
until set. Put aw^ay to chill and serve ■with a little -whipped cream.
SIX PURE FLAVORS
Vanilla Chocolate Lemon
Orange Raspberry Almond
A postcard from you will bring a FREE SAMPLE and a Booklet of Recipes
CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, Inc., Box. 2507, LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
169
AMERICAN COOKERY
Please the palate and save the
stomach by eating more good bread
Fleischmann*s Yeast
makes good bread and various
other toothsome things. Our new
recipe book tells how — free for the
asking.
The Fleischmann Company
701 Washington Street New York City
These
•mark ^riascixMS
package
SPECIAbvBIBTETIC
rUULI kidM anXiver troubles
J£QUira|(RATha STRICT DIET
Unlike other goodar ^^k ydl|c physician.
Leading jfocers^^or bookor san|cle, write
FARWELL & RHINES. Watertown, N?V., U. S. A.
lESSONS IN COOKING ^JTST^:
^^266 seaaonable menui with detailed redpea and fuO directions for pre-
paring each meal. Food Economy, Balfinced Diet, Menus for all Oeca-
ilons. Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette. 480 pp.
Illustrated. Sent on approval for 60o and 60c for 4 months or 12 Gasn.
Sample Paget free.
American School of Home Economics, £03 W. 69th St,, Chicago, HI.
IBIHIIII
J'*
fi0, MO
Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72
Hours orSteaniingHot24-Hours
A necessity in every home — indispensable when
traveling or on any outing. Keeps baby's
milk at right temperature, or invalid's
hot or cold drink all night without heat,
ice or bother of preparation.
Thoroughly protected against breakage.
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass.
Instantly demountable— easy to keep clean.
Typical Icy-Hot Values
No. 31. Bottle— Black Morocco Leath-
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5.25
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for
oysters.solid food, etc. Pt. 3.00; Qt. 4.50
No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel — green, wine
and tan, Pr. 1.75; Ot. 2.75
NOc 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint
bottle and drinking cup ^.25
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle 0*. 9.00
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer
cannot supply you, accept no sub
stitute— we will supply you direct^
at above prices, charges pre-
paid. Write for catalog show-
ing many styles from ?1 up.
Icy-Hot Bottle Co.,
Cincinnati,
?^ Ohio
Mudge Patent Canner
The modem way of canning fruits and vegetables
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY
Write for information
BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY
3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa.
THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2M
Needed in every home. Just the thing
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets,
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns
easy with one hand. Geared for high
speed. Gears enclosed make it per-
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures
even grinding. Fully guaranteed.
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or
with our famous 2-in-1 Flour Sifter
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2.50.
2-IN-l
FLOUR
SIFTER
$155
l^rfAis.
'^:^i
L
( Tested and approved by
Good Housekeeping Institute)
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to
clean. Has two compartments
with sifter between. Sift flour,
then turn sifter and re-sift as often
as desired. No trouble, no waste,
little work. Far better, cleaner,
easier, more economical than old
method.
Sent prepaid upon receipt of $1 .00
(or three for $2.00), or with
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every
housewife needs them both. Order
today.
Agents and Dealers Wanted
Write for our liberal proposition
WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO.
858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
170
ADVERTISEMENTS
Correctly Made Salads
Salads should be not only
cold and crisp, but good to look
at. Instead they are usually
rather mussy, especially on hot
days, when of all times they
ought to look invitingly cool
and crisp.
A tempting salad will not
only coax the appetite, but it
will go far towards satisfying
it. Nothing like correctly made
salads for the summer appetite.
The use of
Jell-0
for the purpose has revolutionized the making
of salads. It not only gives them a deliciously
icy sparkle and piquancy of flavor, but furn-
ishes a beauty of form that is as much to be
desired in salads as in desserts.
Salad recipes will be sent on request and
also the new Jell-O Book.
Seven Jell-O flavors — each 10 cents, at any
grocer's.
THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO.,
Le Roy. N. Y.. and Bridgeburg. Ont.
Color of Cream or Butter
No Indication of Its Quality
Exhaustive experiments by the University of Missouri
show that the yellow coloring of cream and butter is de-
rived from "carotin" and "xanthophyll", yellow pigments
found most abundantly in fresh green feeds. The amount
of color that a cow takes out of her feed and puts into
cream and butter, depends almost entirely on the amount
of coloring matter in her feed, although for some unex-
plained reason some breeds of cows make use of more
carotin when making their milk. The high color in cream
does not denote richness in butter fat, and instead of cows
giving a low per cent, of fat in winter when the cream is
colorless, they give a higher per cent, of fat than they do in
spring and summer.
The butter maker who adds a vegetable coloring matter
to butter is only doing what the cow would do if she had
feeds rich in "carotin" and "xanthophyll". Purebred Hol-
stein cows produce milk naturally light in color, but rich
in body and tissue building properties and in vitality, and
their yield is greater, more constant and profitable than
that of any other dairy cows in the world. Investigate the
big 'Black-and-Whites." Send for our literature.
Holstem-Freisian Association of America
F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec'y
16-W American Building. Brattleboro, Vermont
"My fruit always keeps
I don't risk a fine jar of
fruit for half a cent. I buy
iHlODbUCK
RUBBER RINGS
thick, strong and elastic."
Send 2c stamp for booklet, " Good Luck in
Preserving," with 33 original recipes and an
assortment of gummed labels. If your dealer
cannot supply you, send 10c for Idoz. rings.
BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO.
Dept. 3 Cambridge, Mass.
r-HAY'S-
Pure
Fruit
Juices
COMBINED IN
Hay's Five Fruit Syrup
make a most wholesome drink at all
seasons for all people — old or young.
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready.
Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00
Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write
to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 6c
for mailing liberal sample.
H H HAY SONS
PORTLAND. ME.
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171
AMERICAN COOKERY
Kxperience has shown that the most satisfactory way
to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri-
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums:
CONDITIONS
Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yeariy sub-
The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
scriptions at $1.00 each.
stated below the description of each premium.
Transportation is or is not paid as stated
^ ^ SWEDISH
ROSETTE
IRONS
These are something new in this country. With
them you can make delicious and beautiful pastry
confections, to be served sprinkled with powdered
sugar or spread with jam or preserves and orna-
mented with whipped cream.
Each set comes securely packed in an attractive
box, with recipes and full directions for use.
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, hOc.
MAGIC COVER
For Pastry Boards and Rolling Pin ; chemically
treated and hygienic; recommended by leading
teachers of cooking. If you once use this you will
never be without a set again. Saves flour, time
and patience. Sent postpaid, for one (1) new sub-
scription. Cash price, 65c.
Pastry Bad and Four Tubes
(Bag not shown in cut)
A complete outfit. Practical in every way.
Made especially for Bakers and Caterers. Emi-
nently suitable for home use.
The set sent, prepaid, for two (2) new subscrip-
tions. Cash price, $1.00.
THE A. M. C. ORNAMENTER
Rubber pastry bag and twelve brass tubes, assorted designs, for cake decorating. This set is for fine
work, while the set described a-bove is for more general use. Packed in a wooden box, prepaid, for
three (3) new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.60.
PATTY
IRONS
Are used to make pates or timbales; pastry cups
for serving hot or frozen dainties, creamed vege-
tables, salads, ices, etc.
Each set, packed in a box with recipes and full
directions.
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 60c.
ROTARY
MINCING
KNIFE
Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect-
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables, etc.,
and the shield frees the knives from the materials
being cut.
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscriber. Cash
price, 60c.
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Boston, Mass.
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172
ADVERTISEMENTS
PREMIUMS
PRINCESS PATTY TINS
— FOR-
Brownies or Other Small Cakes
A SET OF 24 TINS
Sent postpaid for one (1) new subscription
Cash Price, 50c.
Brownies
1 Egg, well beaten
1 cup of Flour
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or
Walnuts
Mix in the usual manner but without separating
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press
half a nut meat into the top of each cake.
}i cup of Butter
}4 cup of Sugar
}i cup of Molasses(dark)
A SET OF THREE
STEEL DRAWN MOULDS
For Jellies, Puddings, Custards,
etc., etc.
Are so snaped that the contents readily comes
out in perfect condition.
These moulds ordinarily sell for 25c. pint size,
40c. pint and a half, and 60c. for quart size.
We have combined the three sizes into a set, and
will send a set (either oval or round but not
assorted shapes), prepaid, as premium for one
(1) new subscription. Cash Price 65 c.
"ROBERTS LIGHTNING
MIXER"
Tens of thousands of delighted
housekeepers daily use this
mixer and recommend it as be-
ing the most effective beater,
mixer and churner they ever
saw. Beats whites of eggs in
half a minute, whips cream and
churns butter in from one to
three minutes. In making
floats, salad dressings, custards,
gravies, charlotte russe, egg nog,
etc., it must be used in order to
achieve the best results. No
spatter. Saves time and labor.
Sent postpaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash Price 50c.
GOLDEN ROD
CAKE PAN
For " Waldorf Triangles " " Golden Rod Cake,*'
'* Orange Slice Cake ** and many other fancy
cakes. Substantially made of the best tin. Sent
postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash
Price 45 c.
FRUIT
CUTTER
Cores and splits apples, pears and
quinces into six pieces with one
operation. Silver plated, turned
wooden tray. Sent, postpaid, for
one (1) new subscription. Cash
price, 60 cts.
The only reliable and sure
way to make Candy, Boiled
Frosting, etc., etc., is to use a
THERMOMETER
Here is just the one you need.
Made especially for the purpose by
one of the largest and best manu-
facturers in the country.
Sent, postpaid, for two (2) new
subscriptions. Cash price, $1.00.
2004
i/1
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston. Mass.
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173
AMERICAN COOKERY
PREMIUMS
Crisp Card Mounts
Crisps made with these moulds representing Hearts,
Diamonds, Clubs and Spades, are ideal for serving
card-party luncheons.
T^HE bottom of the center space
is closed ; in this can be served
any creamed meat, oysters or vege-
tables, garnished around the edges
with parsley, radishes or olives.
Another excellent way of using
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf
and fill with salad ; or fill the shell
with an ice or ice cream and gar-
nish with fruit.
Sent, prepaid for two (2) new
subscriptions. Cash price $ 1 .00,
FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN
Open End
Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 long.
Sent, prepaid for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price 45c.
DOOR STOP
Need not be fastened to the floor.
Holds door open at any angle.
Worked by the foot.
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) sub-
scription. Cash price 50c.
When ordering mention whether
or not door has a threshold.
n'A
BREAD BOARD
Eleven-inch turned and carved maple bread board.
Imported. Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber
for securing and sending us one (1) new yearly sub-
scription for American Cookery. Cash price 65c.
INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS
Serves Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic, Coffee and Fruit Jelly,
Pudding and other desserts with your initial
letter raised on the top. Latest and Dainti-
est novelty for the up-to-date hostess.
To remove jelly take a needle and run it
around inside of mould, then immerse in
warm water ; jelly will then come out in
perfect condition.
Be the first in your town to have these.
You cannot purchase them at the stores.
This shows the jelly turned from the mould _ This shows mould Cup-side down)
Set of six (6), any initial, sent, postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash price 55c.
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass,
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
174
ADVERTISEMENTS
BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE
MOULDS IN SETS
And in that way get a free copy of the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and
Recipes, which adds greatly to the actual value of the investment without increasing
the cost of the same. The cost price, of each article, being the same, whether bought
in sets or separately, and the rules and recipes are only given with the sets, because
these cakes cannot be baked successfully in greased tins, and it is necessary to have
the entire outfit in order to insure perfect success, in making all cakes.
These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right,
being so practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in
the past, success will be assured, every time these instructions are followed correctly,
and ANGEL, SUNSHINE and other of the most delicate, delicious and desirable
iakes made easier than the ordinary ones are by the old methods.
OUR SPECIAL OFFER
If your dealer will not supply you, we will
lend, postpaid, our regular set, consisting of, 1
Loaf and 2 Layer Moulds, regular size, round
or square, 1 Measuring Cup, 1 Egg Whip and
a copy of our Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes,
— to Offices — in the United States — east of
the Mississippi River for 90 cents, and to those
west of the same for $1.10.
Our Scientific Method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let them stick, and loosen
lie cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be removed — each mould being provided with
openings at the sides, which are covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted to loosen the
:ake from the bottom. In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking, and prevents its
jettling, and becoming "soggy."
They may claim that some other kinds of cake moulds are "just as good** as these, and also that
these Scientific Rules and Recipes are no better than the ordinary ones, but you will only have to
consult a few, of the thousands, of the cakemakers who are using these, or give the outfit a thorough
trial yourself, in order to be convinced of the superior merits of these, — not only for Angel Cake,
but for making all other kinds as well.
A.GEINTS \^ ANTED ^° canvass the Towns and Small Cities — where we have not been able to give
^ rill 1 MaiJ demonstrations — and educate the cakemakers in regard to the great advantages to be
derived by practicing our scientific method of cake-making, and take orders for our specialties. We will arrange with
Church, Domestic Science and other Societies, that want to make money, to act as our agents. This offers a rare
opportunity to build a very profitable, and permanent, business. For our special terms to agents, address Dept. A.
THE CHAPMAN CO.
Geneva, N. Y.
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175
AMERICAN COOKERY
7"'HE present popularity of white summer clothes for men as well
as for women places no hardship on the laundress who knows the
possibilities in Ivory Soap. No matter what the material — linen, silk,
cotton, fiannel, or Palm Beach cloth — no special care is needed so long
as Ivory is used.
The use of the mild, pure, white, neutral Ivory eliminates all danger to weave,
color and finish. It contains no free alkali — cannot harm the most delicate fabrics. It
contains no inferior ingredients — cannot have any effect except the production of
sweet, spotless, snowy cleanness.
All that is necessary is to handle each garment as better-than-ordinary clothes always
should be handled. That is, wash one piece at a time, use lukewarm water, refrain
from rubbing, and dry into shape as far as possible. Because Ivory is the purest
and the highest quality soap that can be made, just common sense — not special
directions — is needed to make its washing of any kind of clothes beyond criticism.
IVORY SOAP
99U% PURE
Factories at Ivorydale, O.; Port Ivory, N. Y.; Kansas City, Kans.; Hamilton, Can.
mm^mPMm}M^^^>^, ,..
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
176
ADVERTISEMENTS
. \'
k.itiA-'
• THE RECEPTION COMMITTEE
A;//;/,y/ ^ £rfzf^/v/ F. Bifwerfo/ Cream of Wheat Co Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheat Co.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept suDstitutes
177
AMERICAN COOKERy
Vol. XXI
OCTOBER, 1916
No. 3
CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER
PAGE
MENUS FOR HALLOWE'EN SUPPERS 185
MARY ATTENDS A CAKE AND PIE SALE HELD BY
WEST SWAMP MENNONITES . . Edith M. Thomas 187
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL Ladd Plumley 192
(Continued from August-September number)
THE STIRRUP CUP Mary Carolyn Davies 195
A PERFECT CAKE .... Frances Campbell Sparhawk 196
HALLOWE'EN MERRIMENT . . Jeanette Young Norton 200
AH SING'S COALS OF FIRE .... Donald A. Eraser 202
OUR FLAG L. M. Thornton 203
ENGLISH WALNUT TREES . . . . . Hollister Sage 204
EDITORIALS . 206
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with
half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) ... Janet M. Hill 209
MENUS,BALANCED,FORWEEK IN OCTOBER „ „ „ 218
MENUS, BREAKFAST, FOR YOUNG CHILDREN „ „ „ 219
APOSTLES OF THE NEW ... Eleanor Robbins Wilson 220
PRESERVING EGGS George E. Walsh 222
A WAYSIDE OVEN, ETC., ETC. . . . Aubrey Fullerton 225
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— Lighting the Dining Room
— Keeping Eggs — Of Sweet Herbs — Afternoon Tea — Etc. 227
QUERIES AND ANSWERS 230
THE SILVER LINING 242
MISCELLANEOUS 244
$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY
Four Years' Subscription, $3.00
Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c.
Entered at Boston post-oflBce as second-class matter.
Copyright, 1916, by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose
178
ADVERTISEMENTS
Cotlolene
''The
Natural
Shortening''
**Cottolene
makes good
cooking better**
Tempting Biscuits
You will make them when you use
Cottolene for shortening.
Biscuits shortened with Cottolene are
light, flaky, pleasing to the eye and grateful
to the appetite.
Cottolene Baking-Powder Biscuits
Into two cups of sifted pastry flour, sift and mix
one level teaspoon of salt and four level or two
rounded teaspoons baking powder; chop in one
level tablespoon of chilled Cottolene, wet to a stiff
dough with about ^ cup of milk, or half water
and half milk. Toss out on a floured board, pat
it down and roll 3^ -inch thick. Cut into small
rounds and bake in a hot oven.
From "HOME HELPS," mailed free if you write
our General Offices, Chicago
Cottolene is a pure food product that is a
real aid to digestion. Use it for all shorten-
ing and frying. With Cottolene you are
always sure of cooking better foods.
For your convenience Cottolene is put up
in pails of different sizes. Arrange with your
grocer today for a regular supply.
i#*^ ^^w^
Ufii
^ih
'*ssss::t'
.^"^
J"
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
179
AMERICAN COOKERY
"This Year I had
Six Dresses
Instead of Two"
PRETTIER dresses— more stylish, better made, and for
the first time in my life dresses that my friends say
have my own individuality in every line. And they cost
me less than the two I had last season. How did I man-
age? I made them all myself . Besides, I've made three
skirts and half a dozen blouses, and practically everything
that the children are wearing. And a year ago I couldn't
make a buttonhole."
Today hundreds of women are telling practically this
same story of how they have found the easy, delightful way
to clothes economy through the simple and practical Home-
Study Courses in Dressmaking and Milhnery offered by the
WOMAN S INSTITUTE
OF DOMESTIC ARTS ^ SCIENCES INC.
By our new easy method you can learn right at home in
spare time to make all your own and your children's clothes
and save two-thirds of what they now cost you. Our new
method is entirely different from anything you ever have
seen or heard of. So simple you can start making garments
at once. Hundreds of pictures show and explain every
step .
In Dressmaking, you learn how to design, plan and make
garments of every kind; renovate and remodel; copy
dresses you see on the street, in the shops or in the fashion
magazines; do all kinds of fancy work; dress in taste and
style. In MDlinery, how to design and trim hats, construct
and alter shapes, make all kinds of ribbon flowers and
bows. These are but suggestions.
Be a Dressmaker or Milliner
With the thorough training these Courses give you, you can go
into business, secnfe a good paying position or open a shop of your
own. The demand for dressmakers and milliners is greater "than
the supply — hundreds are making $25 to $40 a week.
Send this coupon or a letter or postal today for full information
about the Course in which you are interested most and full details
of our special low price, easy-payment offer to those enrolling now.
WOMAN'S INSTITUTE, Inc.
Dept. 12 K, 358 Fifth Avenue, New York City
Please send me your special offer and full information
regarding the Course marked below.
r~l Home Dressmaking []] Home MilUnery
(~~] Professional Dressmakinc
Name.
Specify Avhether Mrs. or Miss
Address.
•ess __« I
INDEX FOR OCTOBER Page
Ah Sing's Coals of Fire 202
Apostles of the New 220
Double Professional, A 192
Editorials. 206
English Walnut Trees. 204.
Hallowe'en Merriment . . :'. 200
Home Ideas and Economies 227
Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by.
West Swamp Mennonites. '. ' '187
Menus 185, 218, 219
Our Flag 203
Perfect Cake, A. ;. 196
Preserving Eggs. 222
Silver Lining, The 242
Stirrup Cup, The 195
Wayside Oven, A . ... , ..... 2^5
Seasonable and Tested Recipes:
Buns, Philadelphia Butter 217
Cake, Lemon Queens 215
Canapes, Anchovy-and-Egg 209
Chicken, Turkish 211
Delight, Vassar's 216
Fish, Point Shirley Style 210
Fish, Sword, or Chicken Halibut, Point
Shirley Style, 111.. 210
Fishcakes, 111 211
Fondu, Cheese 213
Frosting, Boiled. 215
Gingerbread, Scotch 215
Ham, Deviled 212
Hermits 216
Lamb, Roast Leg of. 111 212
Muffins, Golden Cream 217
Muffins, Sally Lunn 217
Pickerel, Fried, 111 210
Popover,-, Choice 216
Potatoes, Franconia, 111 212
Pudding, Steamed Date 216
Rabbit, Deviled 212
Ramekins; Cheese 212
Rice, Creole 214
Salad, Lima Bean 214
Salad, Tomato-and-Cucumber, 111. ..... 213
Sardines, Fried .' 210
Sauce, Tomato ..-.,..: 214
Sauce, Miss Wilbur's Hard 216
Soup, Boston Baked Bean. ..........:. 209
Timbales, Baked Bean 213
Turnovers, Chicken-and-Ham 217
Vegetables, Curried . ... 214
Queries and Answers:
Apples with Dates 232
Bread,Bran. 234
Cake, Divinity, Fudge, with Frosting. . 236
Cake, Fruit, Wholewheat. 234
Catering for College Girls . . . . . . 236
Custard, Renversee 236
Custard, Tapioca 231
Figs, Stewed, with Cream 232
Filling for Cream Puffs 230
Gingerbread with Whipped Cream 232
Ice Cream, Junket 232
Muffins, Bran. 234 '
Preserves and Pickles, Damson . 234
Pudding, Cornstarch, with Chocolate
Sauce : 231
Puddings, Queen of. Mock Indian, Apple
Tapioca 231
Prune Kuchen. 232
Rice, Boiled 231
Salad, Frozen Fruit 231
Sponge, Pineapple Tapioca 232
Steak, Broiling of 230
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
180
ADVERTISEMENTS
A tiny little pointed tack
will put the biggest automobile out of business
A little mistake in guessing
will ruin the best cake, pudding, etc., ever planned
Therefore do not guess. Go by Mrs. Rorer. She has
cooked all her thousands of choice and delightful
recipes into a dead certainty. No materials ever
wasted, and no mistakes ever made. Cooking is a
pleasure with Mrs. Rorer as a guide. She puts the
beginner on a par with the experienced cook, and for
the latter has a whole raft of things to delight and
claim attention.
Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book
A marvelous book of over 700 pages of the choicest original recipes, with
rnstructions in marketing, cooking, serving, carving, etc.; illustrated.
Bound in washable cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.20.
Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book
The book that is in thousands of homes. Full of the best things in all
branches of cookery.
Bound in washable cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.15.
Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes
Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65
Every Day Menu Book
Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65
My Best 250 Recipes 1 Cloth
Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. ^^ *^®J"*»
Canning and Preserving. . . > ,
New Salads 80 cents
Dainties .... ^^^^
How to Use a Chafing Dish
Sandwiches
Many Ways for Cooking Eggs
Made-Over Dishes
Home Candy Making
Hot Weather Dishes
Cakes, Icings and Fillings
Bread and Bread Making . .
Cloth
50 cents
each
by mail
55 cents
each
Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia
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181
AMERICAN COOKERY
1
FOR THOSE WHO WANT A HOME
CRAFTSMAN HOUSE NO. 78
our one dollar offer gives you
The Craftsman for Six Months
with Two New Houses in Each Issue, together
with Four Popular Craftsman Houses Reproduced
ALSO
— OUR CRAFTSMAN HOUSE BOOK —
Printed in Duo-tone Ink, with Thirty Houses of the New
Efficiency Type : House and Garden Furniture and Fittings
THE CRAFTSMAN — BEAUTIFUL, PRACTICAL^ A MAGAZINE OF PROGRESS
THE CRAFTSMAN PUBLISHING CO., CIRCULATION DEPT.. 6 E. 39th ST., N.Y. CITY
Gentlemen : You may send me six numbers of THE CRAFTSMAN beginning with
together with your book, "Craftsman Houses."
Enclosed find $1.00 NAMR
(This offer to readers of American Cookery
good till October 15, 1916, only.)
— ► 15 MONTHS
ADDRESS.
$3.00
15 MONTHS -iH-
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182
ADVERTISEMENTS
AMERICA'S COOK BOOK LEADERS
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK
By Fannie Merritt Farmer. Contains 2,117 thoroughly tested recipes,
from the simple and economical to the elaborate and expensive — the leading
American authority on cooking.
" The best cook book on the market." — Woman's World.
Over 130 Illustrations. " 648 Pages. Cloth. $1.80 Net.
CANNING. PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING
By Janet M. Hill. An authoritative guide, containing the latest word on the subjects
treated — a thoroughly reliable work for all. housekeepers.
Fully Illustrated. $1.00 Net.
A NEW BOOK OF COOKERY
By Fannie Merritt Farmer. An almost indispensable companion volume
to her "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book," It contains 852 recipes upon all
branches not included in her older book, many of which are not to be found in
any other work.
With 6 colored and over 200 other illustrations. Cloth. $1.60 Net.
FOOD AND COOKERY for the SICK AND CONVALESCENT
_ By Fannie M. Farmer. An invaluable book for those whose duty it is to care for the
sick. There are also important chapters on infant and child feeding, suggestions for diets, etc.
Illustrated. $1.60 Net.
THE BOSTON COOK BOOK
By Mary J. Lincoln. "As a scientific work, as a book of real value to
the world, few publications have equalled it. . . . It has gone through 53
editions. No efforts have been spared to make the book the most practical,
complete and comprehensive possible." — Boston Globe.
With 50 illustrations. 600 Pages. Cloth. $1.80 Net.
m
10^
SALADS, SANDWICHES and CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES
By Janet M. Hill. "More than a hundred different varieties of salads among the recipes
— salads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of
different ways." — Washington Times.
Illustrated. $1.50 Net.
COOKING FOR TWO
By Janet McKenzie Hill. Gives in simple and concise style, those things
that are essential to the proper selection and preparation of a reasonable
variety of food for the family of two individuals. Menus for a week in each
month of the year are included.
With 150 illustrations. Cloth. $1.50 Net.
TABLE SERVICE
By Lucy G. Allen
A comprehensive exposition of the waitress'
duties; including tray service, carving, laying
of table, care of dining room, etc.
Fully Illustrated. $1.25 Net.
BOOK OF ENTREES
By Janet M. Hill
Contains over 800 recipes for entrees, in-
cluding a chapter on planked dishes and those
served en casserole, together with a choice
collection of menus.
Fully Illustrated. $1.50 Net.
Bo^L^^Es LITTLE, BROWN & CO., Publishers
BOSTON
MASS.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
183
AMERICAN COOKERY
PRACTICAL
COOK BOOKS
Each one covers its subject thoroughly and is a
great improvement over old fashioned "cook books.**
The authors* names are sufficient assurance that every
recipe has been carefully tested and can be relied upon
CATERING
For Special Occasions,
with Menus and Recipes
By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
of the Boston Cooking School.
Solves the hostess' problem of what
to serve and how to serve it. Seven
illustrations of set tables by the author.
". . . . give entertainments an air of pleasing
distinction and individuality." — Chicago
Daily Neivs.
Sent Postpaid $1.15 gilt top.
HOW TO COOK IN
CASSEROLE DISHES
By MARION HARRIS NEIL
Gives complete information and
recipes for this most tempting and in-
creasingly popular cooking.
"This book certainly fills a timely need.
Casseroles, little and big, singly and in sets,
have multiplied year after year, but the family
cook-book has plodded along with little more
than a hint that this or that may be cooked
en casserole." — New York Sun.
16 full page illustrations.
Sent Postpaid $1.15.
CANDIES AND J30NB0NS
AND HOW TO MAKE THEM
By MARION HARRIS NEIL
Home-made candy can now rival the
most expensive store kind. This book
covers a variety of tested recipes, and
tells exactly what utensils to use.
16 full page illustrations.
Sent Postpaid $1.15.
CANNING, PRESERVING
AND PICKLING
By MARION HARRIS NEIL
Principal of Philadelphia Practical School
of Cookery.
Will save many times its cost. Most
complete book ever published on can-
ning and preserving. Recipes for all
well known preserves, with many new
ones
"A practical guide, by an expert."— Phila-
delphia North American.
12 full page illustrations.
Sent Postpaid $1.15 net.
THE SOMETHING
DIFFERENT DISH
including 100 recipes
By MARION HARRIS NEIL
Odd in name but good to try
when you want a change.
Enables housewives to vary the home
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16 illustrations in colors, — also half-
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before. Sent Postpaid 50 cents.
SALADS, SANDWICHES AND
CHAFING DISH RECIPES
By MARION HARRIS NEIL
This volume is rich in suggestions
for lighter refreshments and dainty
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entertain. Every recipe tested. Illus-
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Buy advertised Goods
- Do tiot accept substitutes
184
Menus for Hallowe'en Suppers
Sardines
Potato Salad with Sliced Beets
Boston Brown Bread and Cream Cheese Sandwiches
Hermits
Apples
Coffee
II
Hot Ham Sandwiches
Bread, Currant Jelly and Chopped Peanut Sandwiches
Doughnuts
Coffee
Pop Corn Balls
III
Creamed Oysters on Toast
Jellied Philadelphia Relish
Baking Powder Biscuit
Individual Mock Mince Pies Cream Cheese
Coffee
IV
Oyster Stew, Oysterettes
Pickles Olives
Grape Juice Sherbet
Honey Cookies
Roasted Chestnuts
American Cookery
VOL. XXI
OCTOBER
No. 3
Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by West
Swamp Mennonites
By Edith M. Thomas
ONE morning in late October,
Mary Middleton in the Landis
kitchen at Clear Spring Farm,
Schuggenhaus Township, Bucks County,
was busily engaged rolling pie-dough to
a wafer-like thinness, before placing it
over a crust-lined pie-tin generously filled
with stewed apple "Snitz", when little
Polly Schmidt, daughter of a near-by
neighbor, came running breathlessly into
the kitchen through the partly opened
door; observing Mary baking pies, she
commenced humming in a sing-song tone,
"Once I made little pie-dough biscuits,
so I did, with the top of my mother's
pepper box lid, and baked them on the
stove one day, when our hired girl she
say I may."
Then, recollecting the errand on which
she had been sent, she said soberly,
"Brother Fritz and Bizalis' (name for
her sister Elizabeth) would like you to
go with us to a cake and pie sale held by
the West Swamp Mennonites; Fritz
says they 'beat the Dutch' for baking
good doughnuts and potato cakes, and
he will take us to the sale in the car-
riage."
Mary, with whom the small maid was
a great favorite, smilingly replied, "Yes
indeed Polly, I'll be delighted to go; I
have always greatly desired to attend a
cake and pie sale in Bucks County."
Polly hastened home to dress for the
proposed drive, calling to Mary as she
scampered away, "We will come for you
at one o'clock as the sale commences
at two."
Promptly at the appointed time
Ehzabeth, Polly and Mary, with Fritz
Schmidt as driver, were on their way to
the sale.
It was a glorious October day, with
just a hint in the keen, bracing air of the
frost of the preceding night, which, with
a magician's touch, had changed the
leaves on the maples from green to gold
— the only bright spots in the dreary
looking fields, from which crops had been
gathered, with the exception of orange-^
hued pumpkins and wagons filled to
overfiowing with golden ears of corn but
lately husked.
The shocks of corn, stacked in alter-
nate rows in nearby fields, required no
great stretch of the imagination to
fancy them tepees or wigwams of a
deserted Indian village.
The kitchen gardens appeared bleak
and desolate, their wealth of fruit and
vegetables having been stored by thrifty
farmers in cellars for winter's need.
Occasionally were noticed vivid green
patches in the gardens passed that, on
nearer view, proved to be bunches of
endive, which, when the hearts have
bleached to a creamy yellow, is con-
sidered the salad par excellence among
the Pennsylvania Germans.
Firmly fastened to leafless branches
of oak and mulberry trees, were forsaken
birds' nests, untenanted wren houses
187
188
AMERICAN COOKERY
UNTENANTED WREN HOUSE
affixed to cedar posts of rudely con-
structed grape arbors, and from inter-
twined vines were suspended small,
unripened, frost-bitten Balsam apples.
Among the green wax-like leaves of
woodbine, which clambered over trellis
and farm house verandahs, completely
covering a rustic summer house, were
noticed several sweet scented sprays of
the belated blossoms, which had defied
frost, as had the feathery blossoms of
wild clematis encircling dead tree trunks.
The spicy scent of sassafras, inter-
mingled with that of cooked apples, was
borne to the nostrils on the fresh, invig-
orating breeze, as a neighboring farm
house was passed, in the side yard of
which were congregated a number of
women around a wood fire, taking
turns at stirring the contents of a large
iron kettle, which one readily surmised
was apple butter.
In another farm house yard, one man
was busily engaged cutting cabbage for
"sauer kraut"; swiftly, as fall flakes
of snow, fell the cut cabbage into an
immaculate, white, cloth-lined tub.
The wooden box containing the uncut
cabbage was pushed so swiftly back
and forth over the sharp teeth of the
*'kraut" cutter as to make it necessary
to have two men to trim off the surplus
leaves and cut hearts from cabbage to
supply the machine.
Nearby stood an elderly woman
salting the fresh cut cabbage in a large
tin pan, adding just enough salt to make
it palatable (that being a hard and fast
rule for the making of good "kraut").
A layer of cut cabbage was then placed
in a large wooden "Stenner" kept
especially for the purpose; the cabbage
was pounded with a long handled
heavy, wooden mallet, layers of the
salted cabbage being added from time
to time, until a liquid or brine covered
the top of cabbage. In the course of
several weeks the sauer kraut would be
ready to use.
"Elizabeth, is it not rather late in the
season to make sauer kraut?" inquired
Mary, who had been reared in the city.
''No indeed," quickly answered Fritz.
''Mother says better kraut may be
made from cabbage after we have had
frost, and better kraut than ours I
don't think ever was made."
"This is all tremendously interesting,"
said Mary Middleton, at whose request
Fritz had stopped the horses, to allow
the girls to watch the men at work;
MENNONITE MATRON
A CAKE AND PIE SALE
189
"but unless we hurry on to the pie
and cake sale, everything will be sold
before we reach there." "Yes," acqui-
esced Fritz, "I should not like to miss
getting there in time to buy some sugary,
cinnamon buns with lots of currants in
them. " " And, ' ' exclaimed Polly, "I'd like
some of the doughnuts sifted with
pulverized sugar, that Fritz tells about!"
Swiftly passing green fields of winter
rye, inclosed by rail fence, they at last
reached the building, where in a large
room, previously occupied by a paper
hanger, the sale was being held.
Hurrying to the sale from various
directions, came sweet-faced Mennonite
maids and matrons, in quaint bonnets
and plain dress, each carrying a basket
containing freshly baked bread, cake
or pie, whichever one they happened
to be most proficient in the making of;
and the basket would be useful to carry
home the product of some other haus-
frau's culinary skill.
The young girls (in charge of the well
filled, attractive looking tables that
fairly groaned with their weight of
"goodies"), garbed in long snowy aprons,
smiled a greeting to the new comers, who
were strangers.
Mary Middleton, as she crossed the
room to the largest table, that containing
cakes and pies of every variety imag-
inable, wondered, if anywhere else on
earth, except in a Bucks County com-
munity, could be found such a tooth-
some array of home manufactured
edibles.
Large, brown, crusty loaves of bread,
oblong, round and square, caused one's
mouth to water and made one wish for
an old-fashioned slice of home-made
bread, generously spread with sweet,
fresh-churned, unsalted butter, with a
sprinkling of light brown sugar, if one
had not outgrown his childish love of
sweets.
On the table were light, raised "potato
cakes," thickly covered with crumbs,
icing or cinnamon, flaky biscuits, cin-
namon buns, turned upside down on
plates, disclosing thick syrupy top and
sides; golden brown doughnuts, over
which powdered sugar was thickly sifted,
crumb cakes, small walnut molasses
cakes, and "pibbledash pie," as Mary
was accustomed to hear her Aunt Sarah
Landis call a delectable cake, composed
of a mixture of sugar, butter, molasses
and flour, baked in pastry crust.
A beautifully iced cake, covered with
halved walnut meats, chocolate layer
cake, with thick chocolate icing between
layers and covering top and sides, a
white loaf-cake, with a creamy caramel
icing covered with small chocolate drops,
a black chocolate cake, sprinkled gen-
erously with shredded cocoanut, dainty
A TYPICAL RESIDENCE
190
AMERICAN COOKERY
white angel cake and golden sponge,
also were shown.
But the cake, on which Mary
thought was displayed the most artis-
tic skill, was a large loaf-cake, over-
spread with white icing; at intervals on
top and sides of cake, were placed yel-
low daisies, composed of a circle of
yellow, candy grains of corn to represent
petals of a daisy, a small chocolate drop
placed in the center, in imitation of the
brown center of a daisy.
Tin oven-plates of small lemon
wafers, and pies — every variety of pie
ever conceived by the inventive mind
of a woman was represented. Golden
brown "cheese cakes" in pastry crusts,
lemon meringue, mince pie, "snitz,"
"rosina" and sour cherry pie. A de-
licious looking pie composed of one
crust, filled with small yellow "ground
cherries," also a "vanilla crust," was
purchased by Fritz Schmidt, who pos-
sessed a boy's inordinate fondness for pie.
"Look Elizabeth!" exclaimed Polly
Schmidt, who had been inquisitively
walking around the cake-table. "There
is a loaf of rye bread, exactly like the
one Aunt Sarah Landis bakes, right back
of that wheat loaf." "Yes," replied the
young Mennonite girl at the table, "that
loaf of hearth-baked rye bread was sent
to us by Susannah Moyer of Friends-
town; she sent us a loaf, when we had a
sale last year, and that loaf was cut up
in eight pieces and each portion sold for
eight cents, so we received sixty-four
cents for the one loaf, and we could have
sold two loaves at the same price.
"That is not surprising," answered
Mary, "as this loaf of bread is very
similar to those baked by my Aunt
Sarah Landis, and her hearth-baked
rye loaves are usually about four inches
high and forty-six inches in circumfer-
ence. Country folk round about here
are unusually fond of this dark, nut
flavored hearth-baked bread, which
comparatively few modern housewives
have either the time or inclination to
bake, elsewhere than in Bucks County."
Fritz, after viewing the bountifully
spread table for a time, as if loath to
leave the good things, said, "I think I'll
buy a chocolate cake for mother. " "It's
very kind of you," said Polly, "as
CAKES AND PIES OF EVERY VARIETY
A CAKE AND PIE SALE
191
HEARTH-BAKED RYE BREAD
it's your favorite cake." Fritz,
ignoring the unintentional sarcasm in
sister's remark, turned to Mary saying,
"You don't often have an opportunity
to see tables like this in the city, do you ?"
Mary purchased a cake recipe, after
tasting a sample cake, baked from the
formula which she pronounced both
good and economical, as neither milk,
eggs nor butter were used in its com-
position; for the cake, the following in-
gredients were placed together in a stew
pan, and cooked a few minutes — one
cup of brown sugar, the same quantity
of cold water, one-third a cup of sweet
lard (or a mixture or butter and lard
might be used if preferred,) two cups of
seeded raisins, one-fourth a grated nut-
meg, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon,
one half a teaspoonful of ground cloves
and a pinch of salt; when this mixture
had cooled, one teaspoonful of soda was
added, (previously dissolved in a little
hot water), then add about one and
three-fourths cups of flour sifted with
one-half a teaspoonful of baking powder;
bake in a loaf, in a moderately hot oven,
about thirty minutes.
At a table containing novelties,
Mary purchased, for her Aunt Sarah
Landis, a small ribbon- tied "splint case"
fashioned from heavy blue paper; con-
taining new broom splints, to be used
for testing cake ; on the front of the case
was pasted a slip, on which was painted
a picture in water color of a "Dutch"
girl holding a chocolate cake. Under-
neath the picture appeared the follow-
ing lines —
Make a cake, make a cake,
Put it in a pan ;
Bake a cake, as slowly
as you can.
Beat it and beat it, and
test it with a straw.
It will be the best cake,
That you ever saw.
A Double Professional
By Ladd Plumley
{Concluded from August-September number)
WILL you ever forgive me, my
dear?" asked Mrs. Wallace.
"You see you came first and
I thought — well, perhaps, it was natural.
I was worrying more about cooks than
I was about the music. It's always
seemed to me that any music goes, but
folks are awful particular about what
they get to eat."
Mrs. Wallace raised her gown to her
eyes again and shook with laughter.
Then the seriousness of her mistake came^
to her and stifled her amusement.
"My, my!" she exclaimed. "What
in the world shall I do ? You see, when I
found I had to pay such a big price for a
cook I decided I'd just skip the music —
it didn't seem right — so much expense
for one day. I sent the real cooks to the
right-about. Dear me! Most of the
folks who are coming to the dinner are
pretty particular. This, my dear, is a
kind of house-warming. Then I'm
pretty near crazy, what with helping get
ready, and there isn't a professional cook
you could get in this town, not if you
filled her lap with silver."
For a moment, the girl gave Mrs.
Wallace's difficulty her most careful
consideration. Then she made a mo-
mentous decision, far more momentous
than it seemed to her at the time. Here
was a woman who was well-nigh de-
mented with her trouble. Had not she.
Brook, been trained in household details
by that supreme trainer — a New Eng-
land mother? And if there was one
thing that Brook loved, aside from her
music, it was cookery. A single glance
into the great spotless kitchen proved
that here was an opportunity which she
had always craved.
In less than ten minutes, clothed in a
mighty apron which Mrs. Wallace had
at once obtained, the singer had taken
command in the kitchen. Mrs. Wallace
had feebly expostulated, but Brook had
waved aside the expostulation.
'Tt will be the biggest lark of my
life, ' ' laughed the girl. ' 'And it's going to
be an old-fashioned menu — that manna
of yours is to be a New England turkey
dinner, served in courses — just enough
to be correct. If you've got plenty of
cream, as, of course, you have in that
glorious ice-box, I'll make such creamed
mushrooms that, if you'll only try them,
you'll afterward risk sudden death to
eat. And your pumpkin pie and mince
meat! Yum, yum! Now it's to get
down to business. This good woman
here will help me until you and the maids
have everything to your liking in the
front of the house. Then I may ask
you to come and we'll hold a consulta-
tion."
With Brook at the helm, everything
settled into a brisk but systematic
whirlwind of preparation. Before long
an extra woman helper appeared. The
turkey, prepared and trussed, lay ready
to go into the nickled door of the great
oven. Pie crust had been made and a
great circle of puffed-up spiciness was
already browning. Vegetables and
sauces were considered and in the process
of preparation. The two women who
were Brook's aids were really excellent
plain cooks and only needed a few hints
to make them into the most proficient
of helpers.
"All the way through I'll make the
menu old-fashioned," said Brook, during
one of Mrs. Wallace's delighted inspec-
tions of the flurry in the kitchen. "I'll
sing my sweetest old-fashioned songs.
Then the favored will eat a real old-
fashioned New England dinner — only
192
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL
193
the Puritans didn't have such a brand
of jwondrous cheese as I sniffed in that
beautiful outside ice-box."
"My grocer would put in that cheese —
said no dinner was complete without it.
Though to me it seems pretty smelly,"
said Mrs. Wallace.
''It's perfect Roquefort, "said Brook.
"There'll be one man at least who
knows cheese, there always is. And I'm
going to tear myself away from this
fairyland of a kitchen and take three
minutes at your piano."
We can suppose that all this time the
angel-craftsman, somewhere aloft, held
his hammer suspended. Would he
forge or break? As Brook's sweet mezzo
soprano softly took the opening bars of
"Annie Laurie," the hammer began to
fall. During the song it was falling, and
when Brook whirled the stool so as to
face the moist-eyed Mrs. Wallace the
hammer had fallen.
"Please let me use your phone," said
Brook. "I have an important message
which will not wait."
And this was what the operator at
the Boston telegraph office grinned over
as he placed the telegram in an envelope
and addressed it to a man at a hotel.
''Dear Clarence: Have an unexpected
professional engagement for the whole
evening. It is better so. Nothing will
change my mind. I somehow feel that
in the end you will thank me for my
decision. There is no other — not now
— but the answer must be no.'
"Faithfully yours. Brook."
I wonder if the master craftsman up
there does not frequently turn from
smashing a link that he might have
riveted and lift his hammer for another
blow to smash or rivet another chain?
It must be so.
Three times the girl sang. She knew
that she had never been in better voice.
The great rooms were filled with guests.
The first time that the songs of long ago
trembled the air, the conversation con-
tinued; the second time, the buzz of
talk dwindled to whispers, and the third
time, from the dreamy opening cadences
of the piano, the whispers were hushed.
Who was the singer? There was much
curiosity, much comment and exchange
of rumor. Some said that Mrs. Wallace
had obtained the services of a church
singer from Boston; others gave it that
this Miss Pendleton, as was understood
to be the name of the beautiful girl, was
a protege of the mine owner's widow, the
hostess, who had already hinted to a
friend her admiration for the singer.
It had been arranged that, while
Brook was singing, Mrs. Wallace should
take her turn in the kitchen. As the
girl fled from the piano, after her final
song, Mrs. Wallace met her in the back
hall.
"That went to my heart, my dear!"
she exclaimed to the flushed girl.
"Right into my heart — I've been stand-
ing close to the door. And they don't
need you in the kitchen. Everybody
wants to be introduced. They'll start
to go before long, and there's somebody
I particularly want you- to meet. My
dear, he- -yes, it's a he — and he's posi-
tively ^dld about you — Duncan
Mitchell. I've known and loved him
ever since I cooked him gingerbread men
when he was a kid. He's coming back
for dinner — the dinner is really for him.
Years ago his father used to live not far
from this town. And — come right
along, my dear. You must meet him
and the others."
Some time later, Brook found herself
on a divan in a corner beside a man of
keen, weather-beaten face; a man whose
age seemed to be about thirty-five and
who had a pleasant way of making you
feel that you must have met him before
and that from this time on you'd al-
ways count him as a friend.
"Don't wonder you say you're inter-
ested in our hostess, Mrs. Wallace,"
said Brook's companion. "She's an
unusual woman and has lived an un-
usual life. Married a man of middle-age
who took her out to the Northwest. A
mining camp doesn't polish up a woman.
194
AMERICAN COOKERY
For ten years she lived in a shack and
wrestled with three square meals a day
for her husband and his men. Then
Wallace struck it heavy and rich. They
had no children, and it wasn't long after
pay dirt turned to bushels of nuggets
that Wallace died. She comes back here,
with her funny curls and funnier ways,
buys this great house, and, I rather
guess, she's having the time of her life.
There'll be plenty who will laugh at her
behind her back, though she's got a
heart of gold. In the end, she'll be as
respected and loved as she was in the
mining days. Typical American story.
Hard work, ill luck, good luck, sorrow
and joy — and, yes — romance, all
tangled up together. I come in, too.
I'm the son of one of Wallace's men. As
a boy, I helped around the shaft. All
the men shared in the old man's good
fortune. And the stout lady with the
strange curls over there fed me when I
was hungry, and coddled me in my
boyish troubles.
"My father had his share in the
mine," continued the pleasant voice.
**He sent me to Harvard — then he died.
My mother had died years before —
I've always thought of our friend as a
kind of mother. Here I am — a business
trip east — pretty big ranch out in Colo-
rado, where I live a rather lonely life.
Perhaps, Miss Pendleton, you care for
riding. Maybe you know how the blood
tingles when all outdoors signals you
and the pony waits at the door. How
delighted I'd be if our hostess would
bring you out to Colorado — you could
have your choice of twenty ponies."
"What do you think of Duncan?"
asked Mrs. Wallace, when the reception
guests had gone and she and Brook were
making a final inspection of the dinner.
"On the first day you've ever met him
I don't believe in stating an opinion con-
cerning a man," replied Brook, knowing
that the heat of the kitchen was not al-
together responsible for the blood she
felt tingling her cheeks.
"If you're backward in talking about
him, he ain't one bit about talking of
you," said Mrs. Wallace. "And I ain't
one who don't believe that, when the
right two come together, one of 'em any-
how don't sense it. From the word go,
boy and man, Duncan has always been
on the job. Perhaps it was pretty
cheeky in him but he's asked me already
if you were engaged."
"Tell him anything — tell him you
don't know," said Brook, turning and
fleeing to the servants' sitting room.
"Did you ever!" she gasped to herself
as she dabbled her face with cold water.
"Cheeky? Well, I should think so!
But — perhaps — it's just as well I sent
that telegram. Then — but, you little
goosie, you do know that you've always
wanted all outdoors, no music except
when you crave music, and — yes, you
goosie, riding ponies is heavenly! And
I've seen men with nicer faces — but his
is pretty nice, you'll have to acknowl-
edge that, goosie girl!"
Which goes to show that our crafts-
man up yonder did raise his hammer for
another blow.
There are dinners and dinners, and
very likely there have been dinners even
better than the dinner which was served
to the ten in Mrs. Wallace's dining-room.
But for its kind, from oyster puree to
cheese and coffee. Brook's dinner was
something unusual. For one at the
table, however, the dinner was far from
perfect. The puree was beyond criti-
cism, the turkey was a wonderful tur-
key, as were the mushrooms wonderful
mushrooms— a dish before which even
the toadstool-fearing Mrs. Wallace fell
on her knees, as it were, at their creamy
shrine, — but Duncan, at the side of the
hostess, missed something, missed her
more than he had missed many things
in his life. Where had the girl with pink-
tinged sea-shell cheeks gone? Note
the comparison. For he had already
reached that magical place on the dear
old trail where, as he toyed with his
knife and fork, he wondered if her eyes
were the color of a bronzed oak leaf or
A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL
195
the hue of the bark of the golden birch.
This was an important question. Much
more than he desired to test the mush-
rooms, he desired again to look into the
eyes and determine just what hue they
were.
A dozen times he attempted to ask
Mrs. Wallace where the girl had gone
and a dozen times the broad face at the
head of the table mocked him with an
inscrutable smile, as his hostess turned
her attention to her guest on her other
side.
At last, when the dinner was over, his
opportunity came and he asked his
question.
"Maybe she'll sing and maybe she
won't," replied Mrs. Wallace. "But
I'll be good and fix it up so that you can
talk all you want with her. And,
young man, knowing what I've learned
in one afternoon, if I was one who could
offer a girl a good nice home, I'd jump
in and win Miss Pendleton, if there were
fifty knocking at the door and if she
said 'no' one hundred times."
Now did he ask her on that very first
night? Brook has never acknowledged
it and the miner's son is the last to
decorate a sleeve with a heart. He
also is a good man of business and it
seems doubtful if that kind of a man
would ask a girl on the very first night.
Still, I've known stranger things than
that to happen.
Whether he did or did not ask his
question on that first night, it is certain
that somehow he put off a business
engagement for Chicago and haunted
every place in Boston where by any
chance he was likely to meet Brook.
Mrs. Wallace has always declared
that if Duncan Mitchell hadn't married
Brook Pendleton, she would have taken
her new friend into her home — from the
first afternoon she had taken her into her
heart. It can also be added that she
insisted that the marriage should take
place in her house.
On that occasion she presented the
bride with a string of pearls, like cream-
colored cherries, together with a rather
florid silver service, the great tray of
which had emblazoned upon it in
mighty gilt letters, "To a Double Pro-
fessional — and a Dear Sweet Girl."
The Stirrup Cup
High the height I climb for-
Yours is high.
Pleasure we've no time for,
You and I.
Climb the crags of heaven,
Broken, bleeding —
That's my task. A little
Cup I'm needing,
As I stop a moment,
In my flight
To the stars that tower —
To the light!
Just a cup to cheer me
And remind me
That the devils fear me
When they find me.
Not I only, you too
Need the wine
Of a comrade's hand clasp,
lere is mine.
We are two hot hunters
On the traces
Of the truth we're tracking
Through wild places.
While my hand was yearning
For a hand
t a hard trail's turning —
Here you stand!
Just a hurried Godspeed,
That is all.
Now your trail awaits you!
My heights call!
Then Goodbye! Life's hollow —
But it's good.
We've our paths to follow —
Though we should
Never meet — Who's caring?
If that's barred,
Still — Here's joyous faring!
And— fight hard!
Mary Carolyn Davies.
A Perfect Cake
By Frances Campbell Sparhawk
WHY, Anna, I didn't know you
were interested in cooking,"
said Mrs. Mattison to her
friend and neighbor who had come to
her begging to be shown how to make a
perfect cake.
"Well, Mrs. Mattison, I am — now,"
returned the girl smiling, while a faint
color added beauty to her delicate com-
plexion. **How much flour, did you
say? I'm not bothering you, am I?"
she added the next minute looking at
the elderly lady anxiously.
''Bothering me, child! Why, I'm
only too delighted to show you all I know.
The only trouble is that cooking is like
so many other things; when you try
your very best and are really anxious,
either you're likely to forget some ingre-
dient, or put in too much, or too little
of it; or else the oven will behave as if
it were possessed of evil spirits, and the
cake falls into sogginess, or gets burned
to bitterness, if not to a crisp."
"You'll not let those things happen,
any of them," said Anna confidently.
The other gave her a scrutinizing
glance as the girl stood picking the stems
from the raisins. What was up, the
gazer wondered? Why this new fond-
ness for cake-making ? And why choose
to have only raisins of the largest size
and finest quality in her cake when for
such purpose everybody used a cheaper
kind? And why as determined that it
should be right as if her life depended
upon it ?
"How many cups of raisins did you
say?" questioned Anna. "And how
much citron?"
And so the work went on. Cooking
eggs would not do; she had bought the
freshest to be obtained. Mrs. Mattison
laughed. "Your eggs are so large," she
said, "I'm not sure I can use the full
number."
"Oh, can't you?" queried the girl.
"Won't the cake fall if you don't?"
"Did you never hear of too much of a
good thing, childie? But we'll see."
"Let me beat the eggs," pleaded Anna.
"I want to do all the work on it I can.
And let me beat the mixture when it
comes to that. Really, I'm good at that.
I've practiced gymnastics so much that
my arms never get tired." And she
did beat, as her instructor told her,
splendidly. But the latter noticed that
when she was doing this work, which
allowed her thoughts to be elsewhere, a
cloud came over the sweet face, and once
there were tears in her eyes. Was she
doing this work only to take her mind
from some sorrow, just to occupy her-
self? But the other was a wise woman,
as well as a kind one, and she asked no
questions. Then Anna brightened with
the various ingredients to be measured
and put into the cake and the propor-
tions she studied so carefully. "It's
really a science," she declared. "I
don't see why people think that every-
body can cook! I only hope I can —
that is, by proxy," she added. "For
if this turns out well, it will be wholly
your doing, Mrs. Mattison, not mine
at all."
"No, that's not so, my dear. Not
only have you helped me with every
thing; but you've put your mind and
heart into the work, and that always
counts toward success."
"Ha! ha! What were you saying
just now about things not being so
good when one took too much trouble?"
retorted the other with a twinkle in her
eyes.
"Quite different. That's worry and
nervousness. And nervousness would
spoil Heaven, if it were ever to be allowed
to get there. When I was a girl, I read
a book in which with many things I've
196
A PERFECT CAKE
197
forgotten was one sentence that I always
remembered. It was where the heroine
tells a young girl in answer to the ques-
tion how she is to learn politeness, that
she is to learn it in the same way her
music teacher told her to learn to play
with expression — to cultivate her heart.
If you really love cooking, you'll do it,
never fear. And if you don't — you'd
better get a cook."
While the cake was in the oven the
frosting was being made from the
ingredients already set aside. Here
Anna's gymnastic experience brought
good results; and she watched with the
greatest attention Mrs. Mattison's scru-
pulous use of flavorings, how one flavor
mixed with another produced richness
and an entirely new flavor.
"You're an artist!" she cried with
enthusiasm. **I wonder if your brush
and your skill in mixing colors can have
anything to do with the delicacy of
your taste? Have the palette and the
palate anything to do with one another
really ? " she laughed.
'Terhaps so, Anna. I believe that
one thing teaches another, even if the
two appear to be on quite different lines.
You see, it is the same brain working
upon both, and there is a greater sim-
plicity and unity in the universe than
we dream of ; it is we who so often make
complexities and botches because we do
not understand things."
"At last! At last: And it's baked
exactly right! I knew it would be!"
cried the girl as Mrs. Mattison's careful
hands took it from the oven. "How
finely it has risen, and what a perfect
golden brown, and not the very least bit
burned. It's a perfect cake! How can
I ever thank you, Mrs. Mattison?"
"Yes — baked to a *T', as we used to
say," laughed the other with a touch of
complacence. It was a pleasure to her
to succeed, and especially when success
gave such delight to this dear girl.
Then came the frosting. "Now we will
put it into the pantry, and you shall
run in for it when it has cooled."
"Thank you again so much. It will
not take long to cool, will it ? I — I must
have it this afternoon," she said after an
instant's pause. "It has to go — It must
be ready, you see," she repeated.
"It will be all ready. And, my dear,
I hope you will enjoy eating it as much
as I have enjoyed helping you make it."
"7 eat it!" exclaim.ed Anna with scorn
in her tones at the suggestion. "Why,
do you think I did all that just to eat it
myself?" She hesitated a moment;
then she added, "Some day I hope to tell
you all about it, dear friend; you have
been so kind. But I can't just now.
You don't mind, do you? I — " She
stopped, and there were tears in her eyes.
The other kissed her. "If you've
nothing more than that to worry about,
you needn't grow thin over it, childie,"
she said. "And come back this after-
noon."
A heavy storm was brewing when
Anna returned for her cake. She carried
it home carefully. The storm had be-
gun in earnest an hour later, when Mrs.
Mattison saw Anna pass the window on
her way to the electric cars. She was
carrying her umbrella less over herself
than over a box that she was holding in
her hand. "As if it were all eggs,"
smiled the watcher to herself surmising
that it was the cake. Where was she
going? The memory of a rumor, and a
flash of insight revealed the probable
truth to the elder lady, and her smile
changed to a sigh and a look of sym-
pathy. "Poor child! Dear child, if it
is so," she said to herself.
"Am I late?" cried Anna an hour
afterward coming into a room filled with
people busy with packages in all stages
of preparation for shipping.
"Just in season — that is, if your pack-
age is properly done up. Some brought
in are so miserably wrapped they will
have to be made up all over. That will
delay them a week. Let me see yours,
if you please," said a pleasant-faced
young woman coming forward to^meet
Anna. * * Oh, yes, yours is finely wrapped ;
198
AMERICAN COOKERY
it will go this evening, Miss Bourne."
"Thank you so much," answered
Anna. She stood a few minutes looking
upon the busy scene around her, pack-
ages being boxed for the out-going
steamer. Then she silently went away;
and as she did so, her tears were falling.
"Will it ever get there, I wonder?" she
said to herself. "And if it does, will
— will it be understood?"
Somewhere in France! Interminable
trenches running into one another in a
manner to be understood only by the
initiated, some so deep that the narrow
line of blue far above looked as it might
were one gazing from basement to roof
of a sky-scraper. And in these intermin-
able trenches men, men, everywhere men,
who, each one of them, knew that the next
moment might be his last, yet who with
invincible courage were all filling up life
to the full with the occupations and even
amusements possible in those conditions
— reading, talking, laughing, smoking,
sleeping, hearing as if they did not heed
the horror of the unceasing roar of artil-
lery as from cannon lighted in inferno
and ready at any moment to turn their
resting place into a graveyard. Yet,
even so, they had made as best they
could what semblance of a habitation
was possible to them. It has been said
that the world without woman would
be a camp ; yet in these trenches, which
were to them a camp, the memory of
woman was fresh and the soldiers, as they
made the best of their surroundings,
emphasized, here and there, touches of
that home life present to each in the
thought of the woman dearest to him.
The roar of the artillery deepened,
the shells screamed more loudly overhead.
The men nodded at one another and
commented that "they," which signified
"the enemy" were "trying it on hard
this time; somebody was catching it."
"But our boys are giving them better,"
they added ; and every man went on with
what he was doing until the summons
should come — summons to the infantry
attack, which to many might be a sum-
mons direct to the world beyond; who
could tell? Only, surely it would be
death to some of them. But they would
live until their time came.
Suddenly, from far up the line, a
signal. And there sprang into the faces
of the men an alertness, an expectant
stillness, and in the hush the sound of
approaching footsteps which the trained
ears could catch through the roar of the
outside hell. It was the postman.
"News from home, boys!" cried one
to another. "Who are the lucky ones
this morning?" And groups crowded
about the man as he delivered to some
missives from their dear ones. Then
the postman, who was new to the route,
asked for Captain Atkinson.
"In the officers' quarters," answered
one of the soldiers, "in that dugout just
beyond." And he pointed out the way,
and returned to his own letter.
"A package for Captain Atkinson,"
announced the postman.
A tall, slender young man with dark
eyes, evidently an American fighting
here side by side with France in her
straits, called "Here!" as the postman
came toward him. A message from his
own land, and a sizable one. From
whom? The postmark was not of his
own city, for, although it was too blurred
to read, it was too long for that. He
studied it attentively, and, at last, made
out letters enough to assure him that it
was from her home. He had several
acquaintances in that city; but to him
there was but one — his heart beat fast;
a wave of color ran over his face. Was
it possible she had been thinking of him —
thinking enough to send him anything?
No — impossible ! And yet — she had writ-
ten to him only once. It was true that
once — how long ago it seemed to him! —
they had looked into one another's eyes,
and each had read there a confession that
had kindled their hearts. He was about
to speak the very next day. But she
had gone away for a week. And before
the week was over he had offered his
A PERFECT CAKE
199
services to France. Then he was off,
with only a clasp of her hand and another
long gaze which, at least, should have told
her his heart and his purpose. But he
would not speak on the eve of what
might be to him a campaign of death.
If she loved him — and how could he be
quite sure? — he would not ask her be-
trothal to a man who might have but
weeks, or days, of life. Her one letter
in answer to his had been so kind. It
seemed to him that his to her had been
cold; for he had not allowed himself to
utter all his heart, and to him it had
seemed that he had uttered none of it.
He had faced, unflinching, the terrible
fire of the enemy; but now his fingers
trembled as they held what might be
her message.
"Monsieur, le capitaine finds the out-
side of his packet the more interesting?"
queried a courteous yet laughing voice.
And Atkinson roused himself to see the
face of a comrade smiling into his own
with a sympathy under its amusement;
and he perceived that his other brother
officers were watching him courteously,
but with that interest bred of days and
nights together in face of a common
destruction which at any moment might
overtake them, and with the curiosity
which in the dearth of outside interest
the most trivial incident would arouse.
But as he began to undo the wrappings,
the watchers turned aside politely lest
scrutiny should embarrass him.
"Regarded, messieurs!" he cried at
last. And at once they turned a full
gaze upon what had been receiving
surreptitious observation.
Exclamations broke from the group.
"Un gateau!" cried one. "Tres beau!
Perfait!" And he examined the frosting
with interest. At the moment another
stooped and picked up a bit of pasteboard
that had dropped unseen by Atkinson,
and silently handed it to him, smiling as
he did so.
When Anna had left her cake to be
forwarded, she had gone home, and that
night had cried herself to sleep for her
boldness. Would it not seem to him
fair effrontery? Would he read too
plainly that her heart was in it ? But as
Atkinson stood looking at the card that
declared the sender, he said to himself,
"How brave in her!" The cake his
friends should share. But the card,
her name, and under it in her own hand-
writing, "with best wishes" — this was
all his own. As he slipped the bit of
pasteboard into his pocket life took on
a new value. He listened with enjoy-
ment to the enthusiastic comments of
the young fellows who with him
"sampled" the cake. "Certainly, she
has a big heart — cette mademoiselle — "
cried one. "Behold her Christmas
raisins !" "It is of a flavor unequalled !"
exclaimed a third. Atkinson had shared
their dainties from home, and had been
as polite regarding them as the French-
men now, and rightly, for they had been
fine. But that morning he told himself
with pride that nothing in France had
tasted like this cake; it really was
"perfect". Also, to him it was the
ambrosia of the gods.
But in the midst of talk and laughter
came their summons to attack.
Atkinson's dearest comrade crowded
his last bit of cake into his mouth.
"Farewell!" he said with a nod and a
smile at the giver as he ran to his duty —
and it was "farewell". The captain
shoved the remainder of the loaf into
his pocket ; it was not large now, for he
had insisted that his comrades sample
generously. It was the thought of
himself and the card that were the
treasures he would not part with. The
next moment he was leading his men
against the foe — a terrible charge.
As the scythe mows down the grass
in the meadow, so were men mowed
down by the scythe of death. With the
attackers it was frightful; with the
attacked, even worse. How long it
lasted Atkinson never knew; he was in
the inferno, and it was an eternity of
horror.
(Continued on page 246)
Hallowe'en Merriment
By Jeannette Young Norton
THE celebration of Hallowe'en be-
gan many, many years ago, in
Scotland where everybody be-
lieved in witches. Of course, it is all just
make believe to us in these days, for the
games and tricks that we play are done
for fun though once they were played in
superstitious seriousness.
On this particular night witches were
supposed to ride over the land on their
broomsticks, and people would gather at
one anothers' houses to play games and
cast magic spells to keep them away.
Not until the wee small hours did they
consider themselves safely insured for an-
other year against the power of the
witchcraft.
Fire and candle light seem naturally to
belong to Hallowe'en night festivities
and the fun would be incomplete with-
out the grinning pumpkin lanterns. The
open fire is ideal for toasting marshmal-
lows, popping corn and roasting chest-
nuts. Also, if the guests are given a little
bundle of faggots upon their arrival^ which
they are later expected to throw on the
fire as they tell their most thrilling ghost
story, a most novel feature is added to
the night. The tales should be weird
enough to start the cold chills rioting
down one's spine, which is part of the fun.
The witching walnut always appeals
to every "laddie and his lass" who are
expecting to become engaged in the near
future, or who have already decided the
momentous question. They anxiously
watch the witching walnuts as they roast,
side by side, before the fire. If they just
sputter and pop, but remain side by side,
they accept the good omen; but if they
pop and jump away from one another, it
causes the young people much specula-
tive anxiety as to their future peace and
happiness.
All the old, well known games and
tricks are revived, and they include
bobbing for apples, biting the swinging
apple, toss the handkerchief, forfeits,
guessing games, spin the platter, stage
coach, and even post office; there are,
also, several games not as well known,
one of the j oiliest being the race. The
horses in this game are scissors, the jock-
eys are the girls, the betters the men, and
the track a narrow strand of white tape.
The tapes are fastened at one side of the
room and two yards away the girls hold
the other ends. The trick is to cut the
tapes in halves as quickly as possible,
but if a piece is cut off in the haste, then
the "horse is scratched." There are
first and second prizes for the winners,
and the men are supplied with bags of
beans to bet with. This game works the
fun and excitement up to the hilarious
point of appreciation needed for freaks.
In this game each person draws on a
passed and folded paper a portion of any
animal's body he chooses, the leader, of
course, having started with the head.
The paper being carefully folded, no one
knows what the previous artist has
drawn, and the results are screamingly
funny when the papers are opened.
Mystery tricks do not grow moss-
covered with age and each generation is
quite ready to take a chance on them, at
least, once. And, 'tis said, if you re-
member to cross your shoes in a letter
"T" and get into bed backwards, no evil
results will follow this tempting of fate.
Refreshments and decorations of
some sort belong to every party that is
of annual occurrence, so pumpkin vines
and corn tassels, goblin cakes and gnome
punch, belong to Hallowe'en. Of
course, lots of other good things may be
borrowed from other feasts, if one is be-
ginning the festivities with a dinner
party. In this case the following scheme
of decoration, and menu with recipes
attached, may come in handy.
200
HALLOWE'EN MERRIMENT
201
This is a semi-cubist idea in black and
white decoration, which works out at-
tractively for this dinner. Crepe paper
lends itself satisfactorily to the decora-
tions and is inexpensive. Cover the
table top, above the silence cloth, with a
thickness of white crepe paper, arrang-
ing an eighteen inch flounce, . bordered
with black silhouette figures of cats,
witches, brooms, bats and owls, around
the edge of the table, headed by a tight-
ly twisted black and white paper cord;
the cord and flounce to be sewed lightly
around the edge. The shiny black bor-
der figures come cut and gummed for the
purpose. Use a black paper center-
piece that has a fringe of the silhouette
figures around the edge to match the
border, placing in the middle a medium-
sized pumpkin shell hollowed out and
filled with bright colored fruit. Use
white paper candle shades decorated
with black silhouette figures; and black
and white striped china.
For the place cards the white plate
rings decorated with the black figures
are new and attractive. Beside each
plate place a tiny black canvas bag filled
with salted nuts. The menu should
follow the color scheme of the decoration
as far as possible. By way of suggestion
this menu is offered with the recipes for
the making of any unusual dish it may
contain.
MENU
Oyster Canape
Lobster Bisque
Cod au Gratin
Broiled Squab, glazed sweet potatoes, peas.
Apricot Ice
Hearts of Lamb Chops Parisienne
Broiled Potatoes
Harvest Salad
Tutti Frutti Cream, Silver Cake
Coffee
Claret cup may be served throughout
the dinner under the name of "witches'
brew, " or any of the fruit punches will do,
if the claret is objected to, but served
in this way they should not be made
very sweet. For the oyster canapes
allow three small oysters to a portion.
Steep theni in their own liquor for two
minutes, or until the beards curl. Re-
move, drain, and set them aside to chill.
When ready for use drain again, dry on
a soft cloth, and add, for fifty oysters, a
level saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, a
saltspoonful of salt, the juice of one onion,
a teaspoonful of Oscar's sauce, a table-
spoonful of tomato ketchup, and two
tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise; mix all
thoroughly but do not break the oysters.
Spread the toast rounds lightly with an-
chovy paste, lay three oysters on each
and sprinkle a little chopped chives on top,
garnishing the center with a pimiento
olive.
Boil three lobsters weighing from two
to two and a half pounds, each, and when
they are cold remove the meat from the
large claws and tails, dice it and set aside.
Pound the rest of the meat and shell and
stew it in a quart of fish-broth for thirty
minutes; season highly, adding a bunch
of sweet herbs; strain, add a pint of hot
cream, and thicken slightly if necessary
with butter and flour rubbed to a cream ;
add the diced lobster, and serve.
The cod au gratin is made in the
usual way. The squabs should be
trussed before broiling so that they serve
well on a square of toast. The apricot
ice should not be frozen hard when it is
used in this way. Cut the heart from
lamb chops enough to allow one to each
portion; saute them in butter and serve
each on a large artichoke bottom with a
Newburg sauce over them and sliced
truffles as a garnish.
For the harvest salad boil two good-
sized heads of cauliflower until done, but
not to breaking point; drain and cool
them when done. When cold cut in
branches and allow them to marinate in
French dressing to which has been added
the juice of an onion, a bud of garlic, and
a teaspoonful of spiced syrup for one
hour. Drain, arrange on red beet leaves,
sprinkle each portion with a little
chopped taragon, and cover with mayon-
naise.
Ah Sing's Coals of Fire
By Donald A. Fraser
AH SING reigned supreme in the
Renwicks' kitchen, and by right
of merit; for Ah Sing was that
rara avis among hired help, Asiatic or
otherwise, an excellent cook, and a faith-
ful servant. His kitchen was the very
apotheosis of neatness and cleanliness.
Range, pots, pans, and all other utensils,
beamed radiant gratitude to their placid,
slant-eyed guardian, as he silently glided
around in his thick-soled Chinese slip-
pers. Serene as a summer cloud was
Ah Sing at all times, save when anyone
other than his acknowledged superior,
Mrs. Renwick, dared to enter the kit-
chen, his sanctum sanctorum, and dis-
arrange his culinary apparatus. On
such occasions the almond eyes would
darken, the placid brows would contract,
and a low rumbling of jerky monosyl-
lables, which probably would not bear
translation, would emerge from that us-
ually smiling mouth, eventually culmina-
ting in the outspoken English, "What
fo' you do dat? You not muchee
sabbee." Then Ah Sing would proceed
to operate things to his own liking.
Such occurrences were very rare, how-
ever. There was usually no one to dis-
turb the serenity of the kitchen; for Mrs.
Renwick's two daughters, Maud and
Grace, had been at college in a distant
part of the country for three years ; so it
was only when some officious visitor came
down to putter around, or Master Fred
wanted to make paste in the dipper, or
develop photographs in the sink, that
Ah Sing had any opportunity to display
the gray lining of his silver cloud.
One morning, as Ah Sing stood by the
sunny kitchen window scanning his ac-
count book with its curious calculations,
looking for all the world like pressed
spiders, Mrs. Renwick opened the door
and said, "Sing, my two girls are coming
home to-day."
"Oh, velly good! What him name?"
. "Maud and Grace."
"Him nicee gal?"
"Why, yes, Sing. My girls are fine
girls. Very jolly girls. They like lots
of fun."
In the afternoon the girls arrived, and,
of course, were all over the house before
long. Mrs. Renwick brought them
down to the kitchen, and introduced
them to Ah Sing, who shook hands bash-
fully with both of them.
"How do, Missie Maudie; how do
Missie Glacie. Velly fine day."
This was all he could say; but he
smiled benignly upon the two blooming
school-girls who had descended like an
avalanche into his domain.
For two or three days everything
went smoothly. The girls were too busy
running around seeing all their old
friends to be much at home; but when
Ah Sing met either of them anywhere in
the house, he always had one of his ser-
aphic smiles ready. He privately in-
formed Mrs. Renwick, "Me t'ink
Missee Maudie an' Missee Glacie heap
nice gal. Him allee same angel."
The girls were much amused by this
glowing compliment. The next morn-
ing they both appeared in the kitchen.
"Good morning. Ah Sing," they said
together.
"Good mo'ning, Missee Maudie, Mis-
see Glacie. What you want?"
"Oh! Ah Sing, you give us little sauce-
pan, we want to make some fudge."
"What you call fudgee?"
"Fudge is a kind of candy. You
sabbee candy. Sing?"
"Yes, me sabbee candy. You makee
candy, you no burnee saucepan; you no
dirty stove?"
"Oh, no! Sing. We do everything
fine. We are angels, you know."
The girls laughed, and Ah Sing
202
AH SING'S COALS OF FIRE
203
blushed; but he produced the necessary
utensils and ingredients, and waited
patiently until they should be finished
and gone. He frowned somewhat when
Maud spilled some milk on the floor ; and
when Gj-ace splashed some of the de-
coction on the stove, the frown deepened
to a scowl.
The fudge was eventually finished;
but it was no sooner in the cooling-pans,
than Mrs. Renwick's voice was heard
upstairs.
"There's mother calling, Maud," said
Grace, 'let's go. Sing, you wash things.
You very nice Chinaman. We think
you Chinese angel. Ah Sing. Good-by,"
and off they ran.
Sullenly, the Chinaman washed the
soiled utensils ; cleaned off the top of the
stove; and opened the window to let
out the smell of burned sugar; but his
opinion of the Misses Renwick had ev-
idently fallen about ten degrees.
A day or two afterwards, there was
another fudge-making, and again, still
another, each time Ah Sing's reception
of the young ladies growing chillier,
and his replies more curt; till it was
not long before they realized that they
had about reached the zero point in his
regard.
One day, howeA^er, there was a change.
On their arrival in the kitchen no one
could be more gracious than the smiling
Chinaman. He bustled around and got
everything ready for them, and did all
he could to help them; at the same time
watching carefully the quantities of the
ingredients necessary, and how they were
mixed. When everything was com-
pleted, he said:
*'A11 finishee now. You go. Me
washee."
This sudden change in his behavior
was extremely bewildering to the girls;
they could not fathom it at all.
Next morning as the Renwicks were
just finishing their breakfast, the door
opened, and in walked Ah Sing, as sol-
emn and as stately as a judge, with some-
thing on a plate. Setting the plate on
the table, he said,
"Some fudgee for Missee Maudie an'
Missee Glacie."
"Oh! Ah Sing, you are a Chinese angel
and no mistake. What splendid fudge,
too! Mother, do have a piece."
The Chinaman said nothing, he did
not even smile, but stalked out of the
room as solemnly as he had entered it.
Next morning brought Ah Sing with
another plate of fudge, and the next
day, too, and the next. And so it went
on for a week, till the whole Renwick
family were simply sick of the sight of
fudge.
At his next appearance with the plate,
Maud arose from her chair in wrath,
"Look here! Ah Sing, you take that
fudge back to the kitchen, and don't let
me see any more of it, or I'll throw it out
of the window. I don't want to see any
more fudge as long as I live."
Ah Sing obediently turned about and
descended to his own quarters; but the
smile of the victor hovered on his bland
face when he lifted the lid of the stove,
and let the contents of the plate fall
sizzling therein. As he did so he mut-
tered to himself,
"Me Chinee angel! Yes, yes. I
t'ink me litty bit Chinee debble, too."
Our Flag
It once was a banner of colors fair,
Of silk or cotton or crepe:
It once was a boutonniere to wear
Or a pretty scarf to drape.
It once was a pennant in gay parade,
To cheer when the cheerings lag;
But now: — It's the banner for which we'd die,
An emblem, a pledge, our Flag!
It once was a theme for rousing song,
For a speaker's lips to frame,
In a talk on honor, and right, and wrong,
And a fair and lasting fame.
It once was a lovely, lifeless thing,
Of which we could idly brag;
But now: — It's the banner for which we'd die,
An emblem, a pledge, our Flag!
L. M. Thornton.
English Walnut Trees
By Hollister Sage
CULTIVATION of the English
Walnut is not only one of the
newest but one of the most rap-
idly growing industries in the United
States; and, of course, the reason for this
is readily traced to the fact that this
country is producing only about one
half enough of these nuts to supply the
demand.
The Persian Walnut, commonly called
the English Walnut, was named "Nut
of the Gods", nineteen hundred years
ago, by the Romans, and by them was
distributed throughout Southern Europe,
where descendants of these original trees
are now standing — some of them more
than a thousand years old — lasting
monuments to the men who conquered
these countries. In many places these
same trees are producing a large part of
the total income; in truth, the United
States alone is importing more than five
million dollars' worth of nuts from these
trees every year, and about half a million
dollars' worth of their timber. English
Walnut timber is very valuable, having
a handsome grain and being unusually
heavy, so heavy, in fact, that the green
wood will not float in water. The wood
is used in the manufacture of gunstocks
and furniture, having a greater value
than mahogany. Single trees have been
known to sell for more than |3,ooo.
Realizing the importace of having
a home supply of English Walnut trees,
France passed a law in 1720 prohibiting
the exportation of the timber. How
well advised was this move may be
appreciated now when it is known that
the United States is importing yearly
from Southern France a large percent-
age of our total consumption of 50,000-
000 pounds of English Walnuts.
The Romans did not neglect Eng-
land; for, as a result of their invasion,
many of these fine trees, hundreds of
years old, are scattered along the roads
and drives in every part of the islands.
Some are nearly a hundred feet high
with a spread of more than a hundred
feet and bearing thousands of nuts for
their owners every year. One tree is
reported to be more than a thousand
years old and to produce more than
100,000 nuts a year, being a chief factor
in the support of five families. In Eng-
land, by the way, it is customary to
eat the fresh nuts, after the removal of
the outer skin, with wine, the two dain-
ties being served together.
The Germans, also, were quick to dis-
cover the great intrinsic value to their
country of these trees, and very early
formed the habit of planting a young
English Walnut tree to take the place of
one which for any reason had been cut
down. The Germans were also said to
have promulgated in certain localities a
law which required every young farmer
intent on marriage to show proof that he
was the father of a stated number of
English Walnut trees.
It is believed the first English Walnut
tree in this country was planted by Roger
Morris in 1758 at what is now known
as Washington Heights, New York City.
George Washington must have found
that tree in 1776. Just one hundred
years later, Norman Pomeroy, of Lock-
port, N. Y., father of E. C. Pomeroy of
the English Walnut Farms, found a tree
in Philadelphia, possibly a descendant
of the original Morris tree. Mr. Pom-
eroy 's tree was loaded with an except-
ionally fine variety of sweet-flavored
nuts, thin-shelled and with a very full
meat. That very tree, with Mr, Pom-
eroy 's help, was the progenitor of all the
English Walnut groves in Western New
York, as well as of the many fruitful and
ornamental trees now growing in all parts
of the north and east.
204
ENGLISH WALNUT TREES
205
Experts say there is no good reason
why this country should not raise, at
least, enough English Walnuts for our
own needs, and even export a few million
dollars' worth. We are now importing
more dollars' worth of these nuts than
both Canada and the United States are
exporting in apples — and this, too,
when Canada and the United States are
known as apple countries.
California is producing about 12,000
tons a year. That state's crop last year
would have been more than 13,000 tons,
had there not been three days of ex-
tremely hot weather about the middle of
September, the thermometer registering
115 in many of the walnut sections.
This torrid period seriously burned about
2,200 tons of nuts, yet the crop realized
more than three and a half million
dollars.
The California growers do not have the
frosts to open the outer shucks which
we have here in the east, but they over-
come this drawback in a great measure
by irrigating a few days before the nuts
are ripe. They begin the harvest the
last of September, gathering the nuts
which have fallen, drying them in trays
for a few days, then taking them to the
Association packing houses, where they
are bleached and sacked. The Associa-
tion does the shipping and marketing,
the grower gets his check on delivery at
the warehouse. For there is no waste
and the nuts are all sold before the har-
vest begins; in fact, often oversold.
In some of the old missions of Cali-
fornia there are English Walnut trees more
than one hundred and forty years old,
with trunks four feet in diameter.
There are many of these individual an-
cient trees throughout the state, but the
oldest of the orchards are from thirty-
five to forty years. Some of these trees
have a spread of eighty feet or more and
the growers consider that an English
Walnut orchard will bear profitably for
at least two hundred years.
If trees will do this in irrigated sections,
they will live and grow much longer in
unirrigated places, for it is well known
that the roots of trees not irrigated go
much deeper into the sub-soil and get the
moisture and nourishment which this
sub-soil furnishes.
As an ornamental tree the English
Walnut is unsurpassed. It has a light
bark and dark green foliage which re-
mains until late in the Fall, being shed
with the nuts in October and never dur-
ing the summer. It is also an except-
ionally clean tree and beautifully shaped.
The demand for this nut is increasing
rapidly, as its great food value is con-
stantly becoming better known. Its
meat contains many times more nutri-
ment than the same amount of beef
steak.
Thus it may be seen that the planting
of English Walnut trees not only is an
exceedingly lucrative venture for the
present generation, but it means the con-
ferring of a priceless boon upon the gen-
erations to come. Some states are con-
sidering the advisability of planting these
trees along the new State Roads, after
the custom in England and Germany,
where practically all the walnuts are dis-
tributed along the drives or serve as or-
namental shade trees upon the lawns.
There is one avenue in Germany which
is bordered on both sides for ten miles by
enormous English Walnut trees, which
meet in the center, thus forming a beau-
tiful, covered lane and, at the same time
yielding hundreds of dollars' worth of
nuts each season.
It is the custom in England and Ger-
many to lease the trees to companies
which pay so much for the privilege of
harvesting the nuts, thus attaching to
the trees a value similar to that of gilt-
edged bonds, yielding a steady income
to the owners with no work involved.
Besides the demand for the English
Walnut as a table and confectionery del-
icacy, they are often used for pickles,
catsup and preserves, and in France,
many tons a year are made into oil, fur-
nishing a splendid substitute for olive
oil.
206
AMERICAN COOKERY
AMERICAN COOKERY
FORMERLY THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE
OF
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics
Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year
TO SUBSCRIBERS
The date stamped on the wrapper is the date
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renev/al
of the same, has been received.
Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
enclosed for this purpose.
In sending notice to renew a subscription or
change of address, please give the old address
as well as the new.
In referring to an original entry, we must know
the name as it was formerly given, together with
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box,
or Street Number.
Statement of ownership atid management as required by
the Act of Congress of August 24, 191 2,
Editor: Janet M. Hill
Business Managers: R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill
Owners :
B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill
221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
published ten times a year by
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Entered at Bcjston Post-office as Second-class Matter.
One Day
Beyond the hill we watch the sunset go,
Leaving the twilight to her ministry.
Leaving to those who walk the vale below
Unanswered still the day's brief mystery.
At dawn the village hummed with quickened toil
That rose and sank as noon and night drew
nigh;
And hushed again from restless life's turmoil.
The shadowed streets in evening slumber lie.
If we could solve the questions of this day,
Seek out its goal, its end, and clearly see
Why men thus sleep and toil the hours away
We then would know what means eternity!
Arthur Wallace Peach.
PROSPECTIVE OUTLOOK
IN the midst of constantly rising
prices we are trying to maintain the
price of this periodical the same as it
has been in years past. We need not
state here the items entering into the
production of a publication like this
that have risen in price, in fact we cannot
mention an item that has not so risen —
in some cases prices have been repeatedly
advanced. Newspapers have been
forced to curtail in size and quality of
paper, even the price of the printed
Bible has been raised on account of the
high cost of paper.
With conditions like these, ever chang-
ing, ever threatening, we are continuing
to the best of our ability, and instead
of raising the price of subscription we
are striving to stick to the old price as
long as possible and thus bid for con-
tinued patronage and support.
Note now the excellent quality of
American cookery in contents and
make-up. Note the character, that of
a reliable, high-grade, special periodical
for the househo d; note the old price,
one dollar a year, then hasten to favor
us with a new sub:cription or the renewal
of a subscription for one year. The season
is approaching when lists of periodicals
are made up for annual subscription, do
not forget — American Cookery.
WORK AND PLAY
TO every thing there is a season, and
a time to every purpose under
the heaven." The vacation season
has passed once more and the editor is
again at her desk. This year the people
of America have been taking vacations
at home. The attendance at summer
schools and Chautauquas, in every
branch of instruction, we learn, has been
very large, and nowhere have the
courses in domestic science been over-
looked. May we all have profited much
from our excursions and learned much
of worth from observation and exper-
ience. In these days the process of
events is marvelous indeed.
EDITORIALS
207
The summer-time is an especially
fitting season for women's vacation.
Life in the open is eminently attractive,
wholesome and becoming to her. She
appears at her best. And yet life can
not be one prolonged vacation, there is
work to be done, service to render and
ideals won. As some one has well
said:
"One can learn, in vacation- time,
without going to a summer school.
He can learn, for instance, if he is an
average human being, that he cannot do
nothing for many days in succession.
Most people, in planningtheir vacations,
model them on the lives of the isles of
the lotus-eaters, — one long sunny
dreamy afternoon. But, in practice,
they find this to be boredom; and they
return to their work, about as eagerly
as they left it."
CAN WHAT YOU CAN
TT was a resident of the blueberry
-^ plains of southeastern Maine who
originally made the famous explanation
that "we eat what we can, and can what
we can't." That explanation embodied
a sound economic doctrine that many
housewives hesitate to subscribe to this
year in view of the high price of sugar.
Is their hesitation a wise course? One
Newton housewife explained to a neigh-
bor recently that the high price of sugar
coupled with an abundant strawberry
crop had forced the price of berries
down so that it was cheaper to preserve
them than in earlier years.
The rising cost of living, coupled with
the present good crop of berries and
fruits, is ample warrant for a revival of
the good old-fashioned home industry
of canning and preserving. With sugar
two or three cents above the normal, it
means only a cent or so more for a
quart can. That is a good investment
for those who look ahead to the table
needs of the coming winter — and there
should be fewer reports this year of
vast quantities of peaches, plums, pears,
cherries and apples rotting on the trees.
THE VIRTUE OF KITCHEN
SERVICE
TN New York city the other day the
^ will of a domestic was filed which left
$10,000 to her employer. The bequest
was the savings of thirty years spent
in the same employer's service. The
significance of that might profitably
be heralded over the United States.
It was long been signalled as monumental
virtue by the French Academy. Many
years ago a Mr. Monteyon in Paris
left a considerable sum to the academy
to be distributed annually as the Prize
of Virtue, and each year a large portion
of the prize goes to reward conspicuous
virtue in the kitchen — long periods
of devoted service in the same house-
hold; heroic acts of self-sacrifice on
the part of domestics in favor of em-
ployers under affliction or in want.
The whole matter indicates that the
servant problem so-called is possible of
solution on clear lines. Serious appli-
cation to business on the part of the
domestic is proved profitable enough
when, as in the case of the New York
domestic, thirty years' service permits
saving to the amount of 110,000. Many
merchants and mechanics among men
have less to show for the same period
of labor.
To encourage the kind of kitchen
service that in France wins the Prix de
Vertu and in New York achieves a
modest fortune, the Housekeepers' Alli-
ance in Washington has hit upon the
plan of offering prizes to domestics.
This organization has issued a card to be
placed in the kitchen, making the
announcement as follows:
WAR ON WASTE.
"The Housekeepers' Alliance asks
home makers and house workers to cut
out the waste in the home.
"Don't waste food; it will feed the
hungry.
"Don't waste fuel; it furnishes power
to keep men at work.
208
AMERICAN COOKERY
"Economy in the home is the defence
of the nation.
"The Alhance invites each home
maker to reward successful economies
in her own kitchen, and to enter the
results in competition for a prize to be
offered for the best showing in economy
during the next six months."
This effort on the part of the Washing-
ton group of housekeepers to popularize
and make profitable kitchen work follows
on the successful accomplishment of a
breadmaking contest which the alliance
has made a permanent exercise in the
public schools. At the close of the
past year, the alliance distributed a
number of prizes in the form of $5
savings bank accounts to girls who made
the best loaves in a bread-making con-
test involving several thousand pupils
in the grade schools, black and white.
Many interesting sidelights on the
domestic problem developed in con-
nection with the contest, as when girls
were prevented from trying for the
prize because the mothers did not want
to be bothered by having their daughters
in the kitchen, and when a certain
number of other girls refused to take
part in the contest because they did
not care for a $5 savings bank account;
they expressed a mild interest in $5
to spend, but a prize of that amount
invested in a savings bank account they
regarded as a kind of infringement of
the American child's heaven-born right
to liberty in all things.
In time, with the kind and condes-
cending co-operation of the little Amer-
ican school girl, house-wives in the
United States may create a practical
interest in domestic economy such as
existed before the war in thrifty Bel-
gium. There in peaceful days rural
districts and neighborhoods in town
organized domestic economy contests
and honored with great distinction the
woman who could make the best showing
of successful household administra-
tion. The Housekeepers' Alliance,
striving in this direction, has a patriotic
impulse back of its endeavor and an-
nounces as the raison d'etre of its
operations that household economy is
the woman's part — the "better half"
— of preparedness. — Boston Herald.
"Love is not to be cutoff from Justice
and Truth. But to those who seek justice
and truth, those disciples of set visage and
vowed resolve that form, in an old phrase
'Christ's militia,' come the most gra-
cious visitations of purified love, the most
prompt and quick affections, the most
tender and solicitous sympathies."
"When Montaigne was presented to
Charles XII of France, His Majesty
condescendingly remarked, T have read
your essays, and I like them." To
which the great essayist replied, not
without daring; Tf you like my essays
you will like me. I am my essays.'
How good, for us and our friends, it
would be if we could thus identify our-
selves with our words and deeds! So
that our intimate friend, hearing some
tale of us, of good or evil report, might
be able to declare, promptly, 'He did it'
or 'He did it not. I recognize the stamp
of his character in it.' The reason why
many thoughtful people, as they grow
in years, read Montaigne, is that, as
they recognize, more and more, the mis-
leading indirection of men's words, they
find relief in the words of this great
French analyist, who spoke the naked
truth about himself and the world."
Faith
Before you came, I only half believed —
First, in myself. What had I ever done
Half worth the doing? Or what battle won?
What had I given for what I had received?
Then in mankind — so much I saw of need,
So much of bitterness and sin and strife,
So little that was beautiful in life.
And last, — in God. My eyes were blind indeed!
And then you came — and now, beloved, I know
Why should I doubt myself if it be true
That you delight in what I can bestow?
And how mankind, since in their midst you
grew
And with them still you daily come and go?
Or God? He gave me life, and love, and you.
Marjorie Hillis.
BOILED HAM, COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE, DECOR-\TED AND MASKED WITH
ASPIC JELLY, FOR BUFFET SERVICE
Seasonable and Tested Recipes
By Janet M. Hill
IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful.
Anchovy-and-Egg Canapes
Cut bread in slices one-fourth an inch
thick and stamp out into diamond or
round shapes; spread both sides with
butter and let brown delicately in a
moderate oven. When cold have ready
half a cup of fresh butter beaten to a
cream; into this beat anchovy paste to
tint and flavor as desired. Spread the
shapes of bread lightly with the butter
mixture. Set a slice of hard-cooked egg
in the center; pipe a narrow thread of
the butter around the edge and fill the
space between the egg and the edge
with fine-chopped pickled beet. Set a
small round of egg-white, beet or truffle
on the egg-yolk. Serve very cold as an
appetizer at luncheon or dinner.
Boston Baked Bean Soup
Cook in a clean, white-lined sauce-
pan, with two cups of boiling water, one
quart of cold Boston baked beans, one
quart can of tomatoes, one large onion,
peeled and sliced, three stalks of celery,
or the equivalent in celery leaves, and
three or four branches of parsley, half
an hour, then press through a sieve;
add three tablespoonfuls of tomato
catsup, two teaspoonfuls of salt and half
a teaspoonful of paprika. Melt one-
fourth a cup of butter in a saucepan,
add one-fourth a cup of flour and stir
until frothy; pour on one cup of cold
water and stir until smooth and boiling,
then stir into the hot soup. Add more
seasoning, if needed, and serve at once
with croutons.
A piece of ham bone boiled with the
beans and vegetables gives a good flavor
to the soup.
Fried Sardines
The sardines should be of large size;
wipe each separately to free it of oil and
209
210
AMERICAN COOKERY
dip in an egg beaten and mixed with
three tablespoonfuls of milk, then roll
in soft sifted bread crumbs. Fry in
deep fat and drain on soft paper. Serve
on small slices of hot toast. Sprinkle
a little red pepper, cayenne or paprika
into the crumbs. Serve for breakfast,
luncheon or supper.
Fish, Point Shirley Style
Skin and bone any fish from which
well shaped filets of flesh may be taken.
Separate the fiesh into individual por-
tions. Cover the head bones and trim-
mings with cold water. For a four-
pound fish add to the trimmings and
three tablespoonfuls of flour and one-
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and
pepper; add half a cup of rich milk and
one cup of the liquid in the pan; stir
until boiling, then pour around the fish.
Sword Fish or Chicken Halibut,
Point Shirley Style
Select a thick piece of sword fish or
chicken halibut from below the opening
of the fish. A piece four pounds in
weight will serve from eight to twelve
people. Lay six to ten thin shreds of
fat salt pork in a baking pan and over
them slice a peeled onion. Set the fish,
broadest flesh side down, on the onion.
SWORD FISH. POINT SHIRLEY STYLE
water an onion and carrot, peeled or
scraped and cut in slices, a few leaves of
celery and two or three branches, each,
of parsley and fresh or dried sweet basil.
Let simmer half an hour, then strain off
the broth. Set the pieces of fish in a
buttered dish, a little distance apart,
pour in hot broth to about half their
height and let cook in the oven about
ten minutes, basting once with the liquid
in the pan. Have ready a cup of cracker
crumbs rolled very fine (almost to flour) ;
add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated
cheese and about one-fourth a cup of
melted butter and mix together thor-
oughly. Spread the crumbs about one-
fourth an inch thick over the top of
each piece of fish and return to the oven
to brown the crumbs. Lift the fish with
a broad spatula to the hot plates. Melt
three tablespoonfuls of butter ; in it cook
Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a
cream; beat in one-fourth a cup of flour
and half a teaspoonful of paprika and
spread over the top of the fish. Sprinkle
with nearly half a cup of cracker crumbs,
and above the crumbs lay several thin
slices of fat salt pork. Cover the whole
with a buttered paper and let bake about
one hour in a moderate oven. Remove
the paper and let cook about ten minutes
longer or until the crumbs are browned.
Serve with drawn butter or Hollandaise
sauce and lettuce, tomato or cucumber
salad.
Fried Pickerel
Scale, clean and dress the fish thor-
oughly; wash, dry on a cloth and let
chill on ice. Cut through the fiesh down
to the bone in two places on each side
(especially if the fish be of good size) rub
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
211
FRIED PICKEREL
over inside and out with salt, roll in
corn meal, and set to cook in plenty of
fat tried out of fat salt pork. When
Thrown on one side turn to brown the
other side. Serve at once with sauce
tartare or with sliced and dressed to-
matoes or cucumbers.
Turkish Chicken
Separate a cleaned fowl into pieces at
the joints, make two pieces of the larger
joints, wash and wipe. In a large sauce-
pan melt two tablespoonfuls of olive oil;
in it stir and cook two tablespoonfuls of
sliced onion and half a green pepper, also
sliced, until softened and yellowed a
little, then skim out the vegetables ; roll
the pieces of chicken in flour and let
cook in the oil (adding more oil if
needed) until lightly browned, turning
as needed to brown all sides. Return
the vegetables to the saucepan, add three
cups of cooked and strained tomato, a
stalk of celery, three branches of parsley
and boiling water just to cover the
chicken. Cover and let simmer about
one hour; add one teaspoonful of salt,
and one cup of blanched rice and let
cook until the chicken and rice are
tender and the liquid is absorbed. Add
more seasoning if needed. Turn the rice
on a deep chop plate and dispose the
chicken above the rice. Serve for
luncheon or dinner.
Fish Cakes
These fish cakes are made from left-
over potatoes and fish. Flake the fish
with a silver fork. Set the potatoes over
the fire in boiling water, let boil vigor-
ously till heated through, drain and press
through a ricer. There should be as
much bulk of fish as potato. Add left-
over sauce or cream to moisten, salt and
pepper as needed and beat thoroughly.
Shape into small cakes ; pat in flour and
saute in fat tried out of mild-cured
bacon.
FISH CAKES BEING MADE READY FOR SAUTEING
212
AMERICAN COOKERY
Deviled Ham
Cut cold boiled or baked ham in slices
of uniform thickness. Mix together two
tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoon-
ful of mustard, half ateaspoonful,each,of
salt and paprika, then add Worcester-
shire sauce to stir to a paste. Spread a
little of this paste on both sides of the
ham and broil about two minutes on
each side. Serve hot for breakfast,
luncheon, or supper.
in half a pound of common factory
cheese, cut in small and exceedingly thin
slices, and stir constantly with a wooden
spoon until the cheese is melted; add
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, half a
teaspoonful of paprika, one tablespoon-
ful of picallilli or mixed mustard pickle,
chopped fine, one teaspoonful of Wor-
cestershire sauce and the yolks of two eggs
beaten and mixed with half a cup of cream ;
stir constantly and cook over boiling
water until smooth and thickened some-
ROAST LEG OF LAMB, FRANCONLA. POTATOES
Roast Leg of Lamb, with
Franconia Potatoes
Remove superfluous fat from a leg of
lamb, rub over with salt and flour and
set, on a rack in a baking pan, into a
hot oven; let cook about fifteen min-
utes, then baste with hot fat, dredge
with flour and turn the other side up-
wards. Baste this side with fat, dredge
with flour and let cook about W hour,
basting with hot fat and dredging with
flour each fifteen minutes, then turn and
cook the other side in the same manner,
about half an hour. When turning the
meat the last time set potatoes, peeled
and parboiled, around it on the rack and
baste the potatoes with the fat each
time the meat is basted.
Deviled Rabbit
Melt half a tablespoonful of butter in
a chafing dish or a double boiler; put
what. Serve at once for luncheon or sup -
per, on hot crackers, or on the untoasted
side of bread toasted on one side only.
Cheese Ramekins
Cut stale bread in slices about one
inch and a half thick, then stamp out in
rounds to fit the ramekins to be used.
For six or eight dishes, beat two eggs,
add half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and
paprika and one cup and a half of rich
milk; mix thoroughly and pour, little
by little, over the bread in the ramekins,
until the bread has absorbed all it will.
Set a bit of butter on each piece of bread,
then cover the bread with a layer of
grated or fine-chopped cheese half an
inch or more in depth and dredge with a
little paprika. Set into a moderately
heated oven to "set" the custard in the
bread and melt the cheese. Serve very
hot as the substantial dish at luncheon
or supper.
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
213
TOMATO-AND-CUCUMBER SALAD
Cheese Fondu
Melt one tablespoonful of butter in
one cup of cooked rice; add half a cup
of cheese grated or cut fine, one-fourth
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika,
two egg-yolks beaten until thick, and
two-thirds a cup of milk, then fold in
the whites of two eggs beaten very stiff
and turn into a buttered baking dish.
Let cook in a moderate oven about
twenty-five minutes. Serve hot as a
luncheon or supper dish with stewed
apples or prunes or canned fruit or with a
green vegetable salad.
Tomato- and- Cucumber
Salad
Peel choice, chilled tomatoes and cut
them in slices; pare a cucumber with a
plain and, then, with a fluted knife, and
cut it in thin shces. To half a cup of
olive oil add four tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and
one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, then
scrape in a tablespoonful or more of
onion juice and pulp; mix all together
thoroughly and pour over the tomatoes
and cucumbers. Lettuce, cress or endive
are all good with cucumbers and to-
matoes.
Baked Bean Timbales
Press one cup of Boston baked beans
through a puree sieve; add half a cup
of soft sifted bread crumbs, one tea-
spoonful of scraped onion pulp, one
teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, half
a teaspoonful of paprika, three table-
spoonfuls of tomato puree, one table-
spoonful of tomato catsup and two eggs
beaten until well mixed. Mix all together
thoroughly and turn into buttered tim-
bale molds (a single pint mold may be
used) ; let bake standing on many folds
of paper and surrounded by boiling
PHILADELPHIA BUTTER BUNS (See page 217)
214
AMERICAN COOKERY
water until firm in the center, (about
twenty minutes.) Serve hot, turned
from the molds, with either a brown or a
tomato sauce.
Tomato Sauce
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter;
in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour
and ane-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of
salt and pepper; add one cup of tomato
puree and half a cup of rich brown broth,
seasoned with vegetables and spices, and
stir until boiling.
Curried Vegetables
Grate the flesh of half a cocoanut ; add
one pint of milk and let slowly heat in a
double boiler until scalded; strain
through a cheesecloth, pressing out all
any soup stock may be used in place of
the milk.
Lima Bean Salad
Cook one cup of fresh or dried Lima
beans until tender and the liquid is
evaporated. Let chill ; mix half a large,
mild onion to a smooth pulp; add a
tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, a
tablespoonful of fine-chopped capers,
two tablespoonfuls, each, of fine-chopped
green pepper and olives, half a teaspoon-
ful or more of salt, half a teaspoonful of
paprika, one-third a cup of olive oil and
one-fourth a cup of vinegar and pour
over the chilled beans. Mix all thor-
oughly and turn upon a chilled serving
dish. Garnish with slices ^of pickled
beet and sprigs of parsley.
GINGERBREAD (See Query No. 2728)
the liquid possible. Have ready one
cup, each, of kohl rabi, carrots and string
beans, cut in half -inch cubes and cooked
tender. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter;
in it cook half an onion, peeled and
chopped, until softened somewhat and
yellowed slightly; add a teaspoonful of
curry powder, two tablespoonfuls of
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and half
a teaspoonful of paprika and stir until
blended; let cool a little, then add the
cocoanut milk and stir until boiling;
add the vegetables, a teaspoonful of
sugar and a tablespoonful of lemon juice,
mix thoroughly and serve with roast or
boiled meats at dinner or luncheon.
Other ccoked vegetables may be pre-
pared in the same way and beef broth or
Creole Rice
Remove the stems and seeds from two
red peppers and chop fine; peel a large
mild onion and chop it fine; chop fine
one-fourth a pound of lean ham, cooked
or raw as is convenient. Melt three
tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan,
add the pepper, onion and ham and stir
and cook without discoloring the vege-
tables until the m.oisture is absorbed.
Add one cup of blanched rice and stir
and cook about five minutes, then add
three cups of beef broth or stock or a
teaspoonful of beef extract dissolved in
three cups of boiling water and let cook,
covered, about half an hour; add three
or four tomatoes, skinned and cut in
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
215
LEMON QUEENS
small pieces and a teaspoonful of salt,
cover and let cook until the grains of
rice are tender; with two forks stir in
three tablespoonfuls of butter in little
bits; let stand five minutes, covered.
Serve as the hearty dish at luncheon or
supper.
Lemon Queens
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream;
gradually beat in one cup of granulated
sugar, then the well-beaten yolks of four
eggs, the grated rind of a lemon and two
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Sift to-
gether one cup and a fourth of sifted
pastry flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful
of soda and beat into the first mixture;
lastly, beat in the whites of four eggs
beaten very light. Bake in fourteen
small cup- cake tins about twenty-five
minutes. When cold decorate with
Boiled Frosting
Melt three-fourths a cup of sugar
in one-fourth a cup of boiling water;
wash down the inside of the pan to re-
move grains of sugar; cover and let boil
three minutes; uncover and let boil to
242 degrees F. Pour in a fine stream on
the white of a large egg, beaten very light.
Scotch Gingerbread
Sift together two cups of flour, half a
cup of granulated sugar, half a teaspoon-
ful of soda, one teaspoonful of baking
powder, three-fourths a teaspoonful of
cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of mace or
grated nutmeg and one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of salt; add half a cup of small,
seeded raisins, half a cup of sliced
stem-ginger (crystallized or preserved)
and one-fourth a cup of blanched al-
monds, chopped very fine. Heat half a
cup, each, of molasses and butter (or
other shortening) to the boiling point
and stir into the dry ingredients. Lastly,
beat in two eggs beaten light without
separating. Bake in a loaf one hour or
in a sheet half an hour. The oven should
be of moderate heat.
WHITE CAKE, MARSHMALLOW FROSTING, SPRINKLED WITH CHOPPED PISTACHIO NUTS
(GREEN)
216
AMERICAN COOKERY
Hermits (Miss Latham)
Soak one cup of seedless raisins over
night, then drain. Beat half a cup of
butter to a cream and gradually beat in
one cup of brown sugar; add one tea-
spoonful of milk, one tablespoonful of
molasses, two' eggs beaten light, the
raisins and lastly, two cups of flour, half
a teaspoonful of cinnamon, half a tea-
spoonful of mace and two and one half
teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted to-
gether. Add more flour if needed to
make a dough that may be dropped
from a spoon and will not spread too
much in baking. Bake in a moderate
oven.
Vassar's Delight
Soak one-fourth a pound of prunes
over-night in cold water, cook until tender
and cut the flesh in small pieces from
the stones, discarding the stones; add
cocoanut to equal half the measure of
the prunes; if convenient add a little
cocoanut milk, and one or two table-
spoonfuls of orange marmalade. When
boiling stir in three-fourths a cup of
sugar and set into hot water. Beat two
tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream;
beat in two egg-yolks, one after the
other, and one-fourth a teaspoonful of
salt and stir and cook in the hot prune
mixture until the egg is set. Have ready
pufE or flaky pastry baked over small
inverted tins. Fill the pastry with the
prune mixture. Beat the whites of two
eggs very light, then gradually beat in
four (level) tablespoonfuls of granulated
sugar and pipe the meringue above the
filling in the cases, dredge with granu-
lated sugar and let bake from ten to
fifteen minutes in a very moderate oven.
Sprinkle with browned cocoanut shreds
or chopped almonds (browned). Serve
hot or cold.
Steamed Date Pudding
Sift together one cup of whole wheat
flour, half a cup of white flour, half a
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of
soda and one half a teaspoonful of mace.
Beat one egg; add half a cup of mo-
lasses, half a cup of milk, four table-
spoonfuls of melted shortening and a
cup of dates stoned and cut in pieces.
Mix all together thoroughly and turn
into a buttered mold. Steam two and
one-half hours. Serve hot with
Miss Wilbur's Hard Sauce
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream;
gradually beat in one cup and a fourth
of sifted brown sugar; when very light
and creamy beat in two tablespoonfuls
of cream, drop by drop, and, lastly, one
teaspoonful of vanilla extract and half
a teaspoonful of lemon extract. For
variety, beat in one-fourth a cup of
sifted date-pulp and half a teaspoonful
of ground ginger.
Choice Popovers
Break three eggs into a bowl; add
half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup,
each, of milk and sifted flour. Beat
until smooth with a Dover egg beater.
Have ready a hot iron muffin pan; but-
VASSAR'S DELIGHT
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
ter it thoroughly, fill the cups to two-
thirds their height with the mixture.
Set into a hot oven. Bake about
thirty-five minutes, decreasing the heat
after the popovers are well puffed.
Sally-Lunn Muffins
Mix a cake of compressed yeast in half
a cup of lukewarm water, then add to two
cups of scalded and cooled milk; stir in
bread flour for a batter, about three cups ;
beat very thoroughly five or six minutes,
then cover and set aside out of draughts
until very light and bubbly; add two
well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt,
one-third a cup of melted shortening,
one-third a cup of sugar and flour enough
for a soft dough ; a dough that is not soft
enough to pour nor stiff enough to knead.
Let stand covered until doubled in bulk.
With buttered fingers pull off pieces of
the dough of the same size and work
them in the fingers into rounds. Have
well-buttered muffin rings on a board
dredged with flour ; press a round of the
dough into each, cover and let stand to
become light ; lift dough and ring with a
spatula to a hot well-oiled griddle; let
bake over moderate and uniform heat
until browned on one side; lift with the
spatula and turn ring and muffin to
brown the other side. When baked,
split, toast, spread with butter and serve
at once. These are suitable for luncheon,
supper or afternoon tea.
Philadelphia Butter Buns
Soften one cake of compressed yeast
in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water;
add one cup of scalded and cooled milk
and about one cup and a half of bread
flour and beat all together until smooth.
Cover and set out of draughts to become
light. Add one-fourth a cup, each, of
melted shortening and sugar, two egg-
yolks, beaten light, one teaspoonful of
salt, grated rind of one lemon and bread
flour for a dough. (About three cups of
flour will be needed). Knead un
smooth and elastic. Cover close and se
aside to become doubled in bulk. Turn
upside down on a board, roll into a
rectangular sheet, brush over with
melted butter, dredge with one or two
tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful
of cinnamon, then sprinkle with half a
cup of currants and roll as a jelly roll.
Cut into pieces about an inch and a
quarter long. The dough will make
about twenty pieces. Cream one-fourth
a cup of shortening; beat in one-fourth
a cup of brown sugar and spread the
mixture on the inside of a cast iron frying
pan of suitable size. Let stand until
doubled in bulk. Bake about half an
hour. The sugar and butter should
glaze the bottom of the buns. Serve,
turned upside down, glazed side up.
Chicken and Ham Turnovers
Chop fine, cold cooked chicken and
ham, using two-thirds or three-fourths
chicken to one-fourth or one-third ham.
For a cup and one-fourth of meat, pre-
pare a cup of sauce (use two tablespoon-
fuls, each, butter and flour, one-fourth
teaspoonful, each, salt and pepper and
one cup liquid; the liquid may be chicken
broth, or chicken broth and cream or
tomato puree), season with a teaspoonful
of tomato catsup and one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and
stir in the meat. Prepare the recipe for
"buttercup biscuit" or a rich biscuit
dough in which the yolk of an egg is
used. Roll the dough quite thin, less
than half an inch, and cut out in rounds
about flve inches in diameter; put a
spoonful of the meat preparation on one
side of each round, brush the edge with
water and fold the other side of the
dough over the meat, press the edges
together, brush the top with egg yolk,
milk or shortening, let bake about twenty
minutes. Serve with or without sauce
as the hearty dish for luncheon or supper.
Balanced Menus for Week in October
Breakfast
Salt Codfish Balls
Crumbed-and-Broiled Tomatoes
Golden Cream Muffins
Sliced Peaches Toast Cocoa Coffee
Dinner
Chicken Soup
Roast Leg of Lamb, Breton Style
Spiced Crabapple Jelly
Sliced Tomatoes and Romaine, French
Dressing
Yeast Rolls (reheated) Princess Pudding
Moist Gold Cake Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Deviled Rabbit
Heart Stalks of Celery
Cake or Anola Wafers Grape Juice
Breakfast
Oatmeal, Whole Milk
Creamed Celery on Toast, Poached Eggs
Doughnuts
Orange-and- Pineapple Marmalade
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Cheese Fondu
Garden Cress and Lettuce, French Dressing
Sally Lunn Muffins, Toasted and Buttered
Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce
Orange Cake
Dinner
Halibut Baked in Tomato Sauce
Potatoes Scalloped with Peppers
Boiled Chard, Buttered
Cranberry Pie Cheese
Breakfast
Breakfast
Baked Apples, Thin Cream
Grapes
Parsley Omelet
Broiled Ham
Crumb Bread, Toasted
Potatoes Hashed in Milk
Yeast Rolls, Toasted Coffee Cocoa
Fried Apples Dry Toast
Luncheon
Delicate Muffins
Coffee Cocoa
Fried Sardines
Baked Beets, Buttered
Luncheon
Crumb Bread and Butter
Cream of Celery Soup
Apple Dumpling, Hard Sauce
Mayonnaise of Halibut and Lettuce
Tea
Baking Powder Biscuit
Dinner
Delmonico Pudding, with Peaches
Mock Bisque Soup
Dinner
Cold Roast Leg of Lamb Mashed Potatoes
Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked
Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce
Stewed Tomatoes
Celery Hearts
Baked Sweet Potatoes
Chocolate Bavarian Cream
Blackberry Sponge, Cream and Sugar
Vanilla Wafers
(Canned Berries and Bread)
Breakfast
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Creamed Codfish
Corned Beef Hash, Eggs Cooked in Shell
Baked Potatoes
Pickled Beets
Breaded Tomatoes, Broiled or Baked
Cream Toast
Crumb Bread and Butter
Coffee Cocoa
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Luncheon
Lamb-and- Tomato Soup
Onions Stuffed with Nuts, Baked,
^
^
Cheese Ramekins
Cream Sauce
Romaine, French Dressing
Graham Bread and Butter
1
Apple Pie
Steamed Date Pudding,
Dinner
Miss Wilbur's Hard Sauce
Cottage Pie (left over lamb)
Dinner
Curried Vegetables
Fresh Fish Chowder
Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing
Olives Pickles" Crackers
Graham Bread and Butter
Frozen Apricots
Baked Tapioca Custard Pudding
Toasted Bread Sticks
Vanilla Sauce
Cream Cheese
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Eggs Shirred with Crumbs
and Tomato Sauce
Spider Cornea ke
French Bread, Toasted
Stewed Prunes Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Baked Beans, New York
Style
Toasted Tomato Sandwich
(mayonnaise)
Tea
Grapes
218
Dinner
Round Steak in Casserole
Endive, French Dressing
Boston Brown Bread, Butter
Squash Pie
Tea
October Breakfasts for Young School Children
** The removal of the predisposition to disease is the most thorough-going way of making all infectious
diseases inpossible^ — HUEPPE.
I
Corn Puffs, Whole Milk
Eggs Cooked in the Shell
Graham Bread and Butter
Baked Apples
Milk
II
Oatmeal, Whole Milk
French Omelet
Small Baked Potatoes
Spider Cornea ke Apple Sauce
Milk
III
Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk
N. B. C. Zwieback
Spider Corncake, reheated
(Each) One Slice Bacon Orange Marmalade
Cocoa
IV
Puffed Wheat, Whole Milk
Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash
Baked Bananas
Rye Bread and Butter
Milk
Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk
Eggs Poached in Milk
Graham Bread, Toasted
Stewed Crabapples
Cocoa
VI
Oatmeal, Whole Milk
Scrambled Eggs
German Coffee Cake
Baked Sweet Apples (reheated)
Milk
October Breakfasts for Men Commuters
I
Baked Apples, Thin Cream
Broiled Bacon Potatoes Cooked in Milk
Breakfast Corn Cake (reheated)
Coffee Cake (reheated) Coffee
II
Grapes
Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin
Grilled Sweet Potatoes
French Bread, Toasted
Golden Cream Muffins Coffee
III
Corn Puffs, Whole Milk
Baked Apples
Frizzled Dried Beef
White Hashed Potatoes
Rye Meal Muffins
Toast Coffee
Toast
IV
Scrambled Eggs
Broiled Tomatoes
Cornmeal Muffins
Marmalade Coffee
V
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash
Baked Bananas
Boston Brown Bread Sliced and Reheated
Dry Toast Coffee
yi
Fresh Fish, Broiled
French Fried Potatoes
Toast
Baking Powder Biscuit
Sliced Peaches
Coffee
Bridge Luncheons (Buffet Service)
Chicken Salad in Shells
Lady Finger Rolls
Sliced Tomato Sandwiches
Hot Baba, Apricot or Rum Sauce
H
Tea
III
. Gnocchi a la Romaine
Lettuce and Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing
Parker House Rolls
Grape Juice, Frappe
Chaudfroid of Baked Ham
Sliced Tomatoes and Endive,
Thousand Island Salad Dressing
Baking Powder Biscuit
Coffee Peach Sherbet Almond Bars
V
Brioche Buns
Cocoa, Whipped Cream
219
IV
Chaudfroid of Chicken Salad in Shells
Quick Yeast Rolls
Olives Salted Nuts
Grapejuice Parfait
Sponge Cake
Salted Nuts
Apostles of the New
By Eleanor Robbins Wilson
THE most treasured dish in my
china-closet is a piece of ex-
quisite craftsmanship given to
me last year by a beloved artist, a woman
who, at the age of eighty-one years,
designed, painted, and fired it in her
own kiln. It never graces my table but,
like the Wonderful Pitcher of childhood
lore, I am able to draw from it far more
than its original dontents. To me it is
a magic dish, full of the charming
personality of its creator. Beside it I
place the work of the ceramic expert of
twenty, ten and five years ago. Each
reflects a different mode of treatment,
and perpetuates the style and design of
its respective moment. But this latest
acquisition spells progress. And that is
exactly what the woman who made it has
done. Always she has been an advanc-
ing spirit, — an Apostle of the New. At
this stage of life's journey, her eighty-
two-year-old heart and head are as
keenly alive to present day doings as
they were twenty-five years ago. Sun-
day evening finds her an enthusiastic
listener to a series of oratorios now in
progress in her home city, where, oc-
casionally, friends still share the rare
entertainment of a tea in her attractive
studio. Consciously or unconsciously,
I believe this woman has captured the
prime factors of success. Early in life
she learned to find supreme enjoyment
in daily work, and to keep the gift of
living in a state of flux. And one has
only to make a casual observance of
elderly friends to ascertain how rare
this is. How many people of seventy
years of age can be found that have not
dammed up a few incidents of the past
where all current events are lightly
drowned? How many, out of the hard
and set notions of middle-age, have not
made an impregnable bulwark against
all modern ideas and improvements?
How few, indeed, have mastered the
subtle art of holding their youth by
keeping the wonder of life fresh with the
joys of new discoveries? Or in the words
of good, old Bob Burdette have learned
to ''keep sweet and keep moving?"
The other day in one of the leading
magazines appeared a salient bit of
testimony from a woman who cajididly
admits that she will never see her
seventy-fifth birthday again, but adding,
pertinently, "no one who knows me dares
to call me. an old lady." And then, she
proceeds to give the desired recipe for
attaining such praiseworthy results. To
the tandem-like rejuvenators of regular
work and the happy trait of enjoying
life as one goes along she ascribes much.
But, in her case, these have been further
supplemented by the daily practice of
simple gymnastic exercises that have
aided in keeping her in physical trim.
These she has practiced daily for over a
quarter of a century, and as a result finds
herself in fine fettle "to take in concerts
and theaters, with the accompanying
late hours, and not be a wreck the next
day." But the most illuminating part
of this instructive talk was revealed in
the confession that she learned these
exercises, after her fiftieth year, from a
public speaker who convinced her of
their merit. All of which proves that
one of the most significant principles of
220
APOSTLES OF THE NEW
221
life is the receptive attitude of mind,
the abiUty to accept and appropriate
a new idea. For, without question, there
are quite as many people suffering from
hardening of the mind as of hardening
of the arteries. And, if the truth were
known, in a surprising large num.ber of
cases the form^er is the forerunner of the
latter.
Nowhere was this brought home to
me more forcibly than a few years ago
when, for a brief interval, I journeyed
through certain sections of the Blue
Ridge mountains, and suddenly but
poignantly sensed the aging and warping
effect of illiteracy on the lives of poor
mountaineer women. Here were women
in the prime of life, gnarled and old and
worthless, practically relegated to the
junk heap from further endeavor, be-
cause broken in body through excessive
child-bearing and drudgery in fields and
lumber camps.
But all this is now being remedied by
the Apostles of the New, the educators
with true missionary spirit. Here and
there throughout these isolated regions
are springing up the famous "Moonlight
Schools." And into the form.er stolid
faces of these humble m.ountain people is
gradually creeping the light of a vision.
It is gratifying to record that in no
previous year has North Carolina m^ade
such rapid strides toward wiping out
illiteracy as in the twelve months just
past. This also is the pleasing history
of Kentucky's advancement, brought so
favorably into the light through the
evangelic work of J. A. Burns, president
of Oneida Institute of Kentucky, who
is introducing revolutionary methods
among the untaught and lawless of the
Cumberlands. And what greater work
may there be than that which sows new
hope in the heart of the young and adds
usefulness to old age?
Indeed, this problem of how to extend
the period of usefulness so that its high-
est worth may be felt in advanced years
is, or should be, one of national concern.
On every side we may see the lack of
wisdom in the prematurely wornout
body. So far, in rallying to meet the
situation, we are beginning to pass laws
to limit hours of labor and protect child-
hood. These measures should not only
build for the conservation of bodily
strength, but encourage telling results
in mental development. Moreover, let
us hope that the full reward of such
policies may be totaled where it is most
needed — in the enrichment of age.
Still, we must admit that responsibil-
ity in this matter does not rest entirely
on society. It is up to us as individuals
to do our share in keeping the mind
alert, if we are to be even followers of
enterprising ideals.
Here in New England, it is a common
occurrence to hear some person of anti-
quated notions characterized as an "old
fogy." In fact, it is such a familiar type
that few of us stop to realize that this
representative of the past is simply a
victim of his own mental edict. Some-
where, back in the game of life, came the
call: "Still pond, no more moving."
And he hasn't budged a peg since. Old
fogyism, be it known, is nothing more
nor less than clamping the mind to cer-
tain habits of thought, and refusing to
investigate or adopt any of the progres-
sive measures of modernity. It is a
settled course of action, governed by
ignorance, old-fashioned opinions, plus
donkey ism. And it is quite as prevalent
among the "female of the species" as
those of masculine persuasion. In fact,
all of us who feel at middle-age that "we
have the number" of everything worth-
while and are taking sort of a mental
rest-cure, while we harvest a good crop
of disapproving wrinkles, are plainly in
danger of drifting into "fogydom."
The old housekeeper who will have
none of the new housekeeping, the old
cook who looks askance at new methods,
the old homemaker who deliberately
eschews the modern point of view are
all side-tracking their value as individ-
uals. F lestic science, like John
Brown's ; marching on.
222
AMERICAN COOKERY
It is even marching into the women's
prisons and laying a redeeming hand on
the unfortunate inmates.
Miss Grace Fuller, superintendent of
women at an Illinois penitentiary, an-
other whole-souled Apostle of the New,
has worked nothing short of a miracle
by introducing up-to-date domestic
science courses for the inmates of that
institution. They have a well-equipped
classroom where Miss Fuller, who is the
teacher of cookery, supervises the cook-
ing for both the matrons' dining-room
and for the inmates. A trained nurse
connected with the prison instructs in
sewing, the prisoners taking as whole-
some interest in the making of their
clothes as in preparing all their own food.
This mode of precedure has been instru-
mental in lifting Joliet to the rank of a
model prison, and succeeded in creating
a spirit of helpfulness among its women
that is unprecedented.
Such are a few of the telltale straws
that show how the winds of progress are
blowing. Some one may jocularly re-
mark that these all come from the South
and West. Let me answer with a
question. Have you read Dr. Anna
Howard Shaw's book, "The Story of a
Pioneer?" In it you will glimpse the
glorious spirit of some of our Eastern
women, to say nothing of the illuminat-
ing message of a life-story such as Dr.
Shaw's. The recital of it is one of heart-
gripping interest. From the early strug-
gling, log-cabin days in the Michigan
forest, on through poverty-shadowed
college days to the ministry, this op-
timistic little woman marches forward,
winning hard-earned achievement after
achievement. Here, indeed, is an illus-
trious example of the Apostle of the New,
and one whose influence will carry far
into the future. For, like all remarkable
people who have done worthwhile things,
she has glorified the present and made
use of it.
Preserving Eggs
By George E. Walsh
SEVENTY-FIVE per cent of the
eggs that find their way into our
kitchens in the winter months are
cold-storage, and the various State laws
that compel dealers to label eggs thus pre-
served with the words "storage", "refri-
gerated" or "preserved", have gradually
accustomed the public to their use. They
were eaten before just as much as to-
day, but under the mistaken impression
that they were fresh or strictly fresh.
The general recognition of the value of
cold-storage eggs has thus greatly les-
sened misbranding, and the consequent
payment of unduly high prices for them.
As a matter of economy, the preser-
vation of eggs for home consumption
should be encouraged as much as the
home-preservation of fruits and veg-
etables in their season of abundance.
The process is simpler, and the saving
much greater. For instance, for fresh
eggs in spring and summer that sell for
seventeen to twenty-two cents per dozen,
you pay from thirty to forty-five cents
per dozen when they come out of the cold
storage house. The price depends upon
their quality and the general abundance
of eggs, both fresh and in storage.
The method of preserving fresh eggs
in the summer for the winter season does
not require any cold-storage plant, nor
any expensive equipments. A few stone
jars or crocks holding about four gallons,
and an investment of perhaps a dollar in
sodium silicate or water glass, as it is
more commonly called, are all the prep-
aration needed. Water glass practically
PRESERVING EGGS
223
seals up the pores in the egg shells, keep-
ing outside air from entering, and that is
all that is needed. Water glass costs
about forty cents a pound, and that will
be sufficient to make ten gallons of the
preserving solution. To every nine
parts of water add one of water glass, and
the ten per cent solution is ready to pour
into the crock filled with eggs. Before
doing this the crock should be thoroughly
scalded and cleaned, and then the water
should be boiled and cooled off before
adding the water glass.
Many who have tried water glass sol-
ution for keeping eggs have failed or had
indifferent success because of the quality
of eggs used in the first place. An egg
that isn't strictly fresh cannot come out-
of the preserving fluid fresh. Only the
uncontaminated eggs can be kept well,
and infertile eggs are better for this pur-
pose than the fertile ones. The latter
are more apt to spoil on your hands.
One should not trust to the word of a
dealer, not even the farmer or egg-pro-
ducer, that his eggs are strictly fresh.
They may not be more than a week old,
and yet be stale. Exposure to heat in
summer will make an egg a week old
staler than one laid in winter and kept
two weeks. Whether you buy your eggs
for preserving for winter use or raise
them yourself, every one should be tested
or candled before it is dropped in the
solution. This is so simple an operation
that any one can test eggs at the rate of
a dozen a minute. Take a cardboard or
wooden box, and cut a hole through it
half an inch in diameter. Place it in a
dark room, and put a candle behind it.
Then hold each egg up to the front of the
hole, and look through it at the candle
light. You can readily detect any spots,
blood strings or other signs of staleness.
Those that look perfectly clear should be
dropped in the water glass solution, and
all that show spots or strings should be
used for cooking at once.
One other point that should be ob-
served. Eggs laid away in water glass
with the small end down will keep better
than those stood on the big end or laid on
their sides. Another point is, never
wash the shell of the egg before preserv-
ing it, and yet you must not have dirty
eggs. These should be discarded, and
used for immediate cooking purposes.
Only hard, smooth-shelled eggs should be
selected. Thin, brittle-shelled eggs are
liable to crack, and their contents mixing
with the preserving solution contaminate
it and in time spoil all the other eggs.
One cracked egg in a jar may thus spoil
the whole batch. Great care must be
exercised, as a consequence, in laying
them in the crock carefully to avoid
cracking.
A four gallon crock, costing about
seventy-five cents, will hold about ten
dozen eggs. Smaller sizes or a number
of different sized crocks can be used so
the home supply is always ready for use
without disturbing the rest. The crocks
should be stored away in a cool, dry,
dark room, with covers tightly put on top
to prevent evaporation of the solution.
A certain amount of evaporation will go
on, however, in spite of the tight cover,
and to guard against failure the liquid
may have to be renewed a little once
every two or three months. The eggs
must be kept completely covered with
the liquid at all times. If they are ex-
posed to the air, they will quickly absorb
it, and decay begin. In using them, one
jar at a time should be tapped until all
the eggs are used up before another is
opened.
Eggs packed away in a ten per cent
water-glass solution will keep sweet and
fresh from nine months to a year. The
housewife should preserve in spring and
summer only just enough to supply the
table until the following season. None
should be carried over. The crocks
should then be cleaned and aired out for
the new season's supply. When re-
moved from the solution the eggs should
be used within a day or two. It is better
not to remove them until actually
needed.
The dislike for anything except strictly
224
AMERICAN COOKERY
fresh eggs still makes many people refuse
to serve storage eggs on the table, but
they do use them for cooking purposes.
It is true that many of the eggs preserved
in water glass have a muddy appearance,
and the albumen is slightly more watery
and the yolks will not stand up so well as
in fresh eggs. But this does not injure
their quality. However, when used for
cooking, these defects will not be no-
ticed. You can pay fancy prices in
winter for eggs served on the table, and
still save a great deal by using preserved
eggs for all cooking. One can save
easily ten cents a dozen or more by pre-
serving eggs at home.
It is not necessary to lay down in the
solution all your eggS at once, but pre-
serve a few every time you can buy a lot
of strictly fresh eggs. You may have
only a few dozen to begin with, and then
the others can be put in the same crock
on top of the others as you gather them,
adding a little more solution to keep
them all covered. If you have a reli-
able farmer who can supply you with
more fresh eggs in the season of plenty
than you eat, pack away a few each week
through the summer until you have the
full supply needed for winter.
Remember it does not pay to preserve
stale eggs, nor cracked or thin-shelled
ones. Washed eggs are nearly as bad,
for the water opens the pores and admits
the water-glass solution to the contents
inside. If these few points are kept
within mind, and reasonable care is exer-
cised in packing them away, there is no
reason why one should not eat eggs in
winter that cost only seventeen to twenty-
two cents a dozen instead of thirty to
forty-five cents. And your home-pre-
served storage eggs will in the long run
prove fresher and sweeter than those you
purchase in the open market. To a
certain extent dealers make a practice of
adding one or two seconds or thirds to
every dozen good storage eggs, thus
working off gradually the inferior ones
they may have on hand. They must
have a certain amount of these stale eggs,
for gathering their supply from widely
separated regions they cannot exercise
the same scrutiny and selection of good
eggs as the housewife. They cannot
afford to destroy such inferior eggs, and
many of them find their way into the
general market supply.
Preserving of fruits and vegetables
has become one of the most common of
our household industries, and few who
can get a good supply of raw material in
the season of abundance neglect it. Yet
not one in a hundred attempts to pre-
serve a supply of eggs. They depend
upon the uncertainty of the dealers who
buy up eggs wholesale in spring and
summer and pack them away in cold-
storage for winter use. And every
winter the cry goes up that prices for
eggs, cold-storage included, are out-
rageously high. We read, then, of an
egg-trust, and a corner in eggs, much to
our indignation. The way to combat
that is not to wait until the hens are
taking a vacation, but buy up the eggs
in the season of plenty, and preserve
them for future use. If this were more
widely done, the prices of eggs would be
better regulated and there would be less
said and written about egg-trusts.
The average family uses between four
and five dozen eggs a week. By saving
only ten cents a dozen one would save in
the course of the year enough to buy a
few extra tons of coal or a new winter
suit of clothes. Does it pay? Un-
doubtedly it does, when we consider the
small amount of work and investment
required.
Bread by the Wayside
By Aubrey Fullerton
SOME of the quaintest and simplest
kitchens in all America are in the
homes of the French Canadian
inhabitants, and in those kitchens very
good cooking is done, even to this day,
according to the methods and tastes of
long-ago. It matters little to the con-
tented housewives of habitant-land what
contrivances and s^^stems are in vogue
elsewhere; their own ways of doing
things, and their own domestic equip-
ments, are still good enough for all but
the very ambitious and curious-minded
ones.
French Canada means more partic-
ularly the province of Quebec, a large
proportion of whose population is of
French blood, tracing back to the first
European settlers in the upper part of
America. Certain districts of Quebec
are still almost entirely peopled by these
French-speaking folk, who have pre-
served very carefully and interestingly
not only the language but the customs
of their fathers. The housewives, gen-
erally speaking, have preserved the
customs of their mothers, to whom a
model kitchen of today would have been
past comprehension.
To see these French Canadian habitant
hom^es in their truest simplicity and old-
fashionedness, one must go to some of
the back-country villages along the
St. Lawrence River, or, still better, to
the Gaspe district, where Quebec runs
out to the Atlantic. Life goes quietly
there, untroubled by the frills and
innovations of modern society. The
people are content with what they have,
and are disposed rather to pity than
envy the dwellers in cities, contriving
wonderfully well to enjoy their own
more simple homes and companionships.
For the sake of neighborliness they live
as close together as possible, and front
their houses on the highway, where they
may see the comings and goings of their
friends.
One of the popular institutions that
these country-folk retain from early
colonial days is the outdoor bake-oven.
It may still be seen in more or less
general use throughout rural Quebec,
despite the fact that stoves and ranges
are now installed in all the habitant
homes; for there are ways in which an
outdoor oven far excels any indoor con-
trivance, weather and wind permitting.
It is usually a round-topped structure,
built of stone or brick from the ground
up, or with a heavy base of hardwood
logs. The top is covered with clay or
lime plaster, and sometimes the whole
is roofed in with a rude shelter of boards,
for the comfort of the cook.
The oven itself is an arched hole
running through this construction, with
a floor of smooth, fiat stones or bricks,
and an iron door. On baking day a
wood fire is built in, not under, the
oven, and left to burn until the bricks
are thoroughly heated. The embers
are then drawn out, the oven carefully
cleaned with scraper and broom, and
the lumps of dough placed directly upon
the brick floor. It takes experience
and housewifely ability to judge when
there is precisely the right amount of
heat • in such an oven, but a rule in
habitant cookery is to build a fire big
enough to over-heat it, and then to let
it cool till Madame can hold her bare
arm inside the door while she counts
twenty. At that temperature a batch
of bread will bake to a good brown-crust
consistency without further attention
except an occasional shifting of the
loaves with a long wooden shovel.
Many of the ovens will hold two or
three dozen loaves, each, and since
225
226
AMERICAN COOKERY
French Canadian families are prover-
bially large, bakings of that size are not
at all exceptional.
It is rather pleasant to see, as one
passes along the public highway, the
blazing fires inside the great brick ovens,
in process of heating up, or to smell the
savors of the browning bread. As
likely as not, too, the cook herself will
be there, watching over her baking, or
perhaps putting it in or taking it out,
or else chatting leisurely with a neighbor.
When she finally removes the finished
product, one may be very siu-e that it is
good, substantial bread that will stand
the tests of family use. It is apt to be
a bit solid, but sweet and wholesome,
with a flavor that no other oven than
one of brick can impart.
Habitant kitchens are in keeping with
their primitive cookery. To be sure,
new houses with some measure of modern
convenience are being built from time
to time, but the typical French Canadian
dwelling is still simple and quaint as one
would wish. There is an air of old-time
leisure about it, and in its kitchen the
implements of human life are pleasantly
cluttered, regardless of rule or system.
To this day the habitant housewife
spins, and weaves, and knits as her fore-
mothers did in days of old, and from
the family workroom at the rear of her
house are turned out garments of home-
spun, blankets of thick home-grown
wool, and home-dyed, home-woven
carpets of ingenious design and coloring.
If any women in America are independ-
ent of the department store, they are the
French Canadian women of Gaspe and
thereabouts.
Some of the habitant housekeepers
have a floor-scrubbing method that has
much to commend it. They inherited
it as one of many domestic traditions,
and though not so generally made use
of as the outdoor baking it is quite as
time-honored and even more simple in
theory. Instead of scrubbing-brushes,
use spruce branches — that is the recipe.
Spread the suds as you please, and
swash them about with the green boughs,
which may be replaced with fresh ones
when they become worn and limp.
The result is not only cleanliness but
fragrance, a spicy, woodsy smell that
lingers for several days and makes even
a musty kitchen strangely sweet.
Perhaps it would not fit so well into
housekeeping conditions outside of
habitant-land, but there this old-
fashioned way of cleansing a floor seems
to correspond with everything else, and
is in common use.
WE have no book in which is re-
corded the names of the "well
born."
We have no fixed standards of quality
in human stock.
But a new day is dawning. Eugenics
will create a new and improved human
race.
"Registered" men and women, a new
aristocracy — an aristocracy of health
and biologic fitness will soon challenge
the admiration of the world and become
the founders of the new race of man.
J. H. Kellogg, M. D.
Home Ideas
and
iEcONOMIE^SS'
Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be
paid for at reasonable rates.
Lighting the Dining Room
WE have gone through various
stages of lighting the dining-
room. Some of us can remem-
ber when the last word in table illumina-
tion was the hanging lamp with the flower,
bird, or snow-scene decorated shade and
a row of glass prisms hanging from a
brass band or frame that held it. With
the more common use of gas and electric-
ity, chandeliers, and electroliers of vary-
ing types of omateness successively held
sway. These gradually grew into the
mammoth dome, which was hung con-
siderably lower than the chandelier and
gave a softened light that shone through
art glass of colors supposed to harmonize
with the decorations of the room. Some
of these domes were barbaric, while
others were very elaborate and expen-
sive, embodying cut glass, bronze, and
other artistic decorative features har-
moniously blended in their make-up.
It will be a long time before the dome
will entirely disappear from view, for if
chosen in good taste it added a note of
elegance and was a striking piece of
furniture in the dining-room.
The objection to the dome is that it
concentrates the light too strongly upon
the table beneath, throwing anything
out of its immediate range into sharp,
contrasting shadows. Youth and beauty
are made more beautiful and age is in-
clined to take on added years. Besides
this, the corners of the room are left quite
dark, unless other lights are turned on
and these have a tendency to detract from
the beauty of the center illumination.
To meet these objections, a new light-
ing system was finally devised on quite
the opposite principle to that of the
dome. In fact, it often happens that the
last step of mechanical perfection is
directly opposite in principle to the
accepted mode, showing that the human
mind is exceedingly apt to begin at the
point nearest and work back gradually
to the logical beginning. In the Indirect
Lighting System the light is shaded from
beneath and carries its lighting fixtures
on the upper side of the inverted dome.
This inverted portion is transparent and
lacking in the resplendence of color that
the dome boasts. The light shines softly
through so that all seated at the table
are revealed at their best and the cor-
ners of the room are pleasantly bright
with the same soft glow. This light
approximates daylight more nearly
than any of the previous types of
fixtures.
There is something quaintly charming
about lighting a dining-room with can-
dles. In themselves they add a touch
of delightful hospitality difficult for
modern lighting to approach. Slender
candle sticks and more elaborate candel-
abra, with their glimmering points of
softened shade or open lights, are
especially pleasing. It often pleases the
evening hostess to usher her guests to a
dining-room that is lighted only with
candles placed about in sufficient pro-
fusion to answer the purpose nicely.
Later other lights are turned on and the
candles are removed at the first indica-
tion of dripping or smoking.
The lighting of the dining-room is an
227
228
AMERICAN COOKERY
important matter as its success adds so
much to the pleasure of all refreshment
partaken of by artificial light. What-
ever the style of lighting fixtures, they
should be immaculately cared for. Even
in homes that have careful housewives
at the head, dusty fixtures are some-
times seen, perhaps because they are
hard to reach. All the parts should be
beautifully clean at all times. Some-
tiraes a small expense in the way of
relacquering or re-finishing some part will
add greatly to the beauty of the whole.
In homes where old-fashioned fixtures
harmonize with the type of architecture
and furnishings, it is quite possible to
have these wired for electricity at small
expense. The skilful lighting of the
dining-room adds greatly to the homey
enjoyment of that room, which is a
matter not to be overlooked, for the
dining-room is used at least three times
a day three hundred and sixty-five days
in the year and contributes much to the
health, harmony, and general efficiency
of the members of the family, so let us
obey intelligently the command "Let
there be light!" D. W.
* * *
Keeping Eggs
THE following is a very simple way
of keeping eggs through the winter
that is used by many "old fash-
ioned" people. An elderly lady said a
short time ago that in all her thirty years
experience in keeping eggs, and she puts
down at least fifteen dozen in this way,
not more than three or four go bad each
year.
First, have arranged in the cellar a
shelf in which holes are bored so as to
hold t'he eggs upright when set on the
small ends. Take perfectly fresh eggs
and immerse them in melted suet so
that every egg is thinly coated. Do not
keep them in the suet so long that they
will have a thick, greasy, uneven coating,
nor in suet that is so hot that they will
cook. If the eggs are then set on end
in the holes of the shelf and not handled
so as to break the coating, they will keep
through the winter in the best of shape.
It might be added that, if rats are
likely to come into the cellar, a good
protection to the shelf is a cage-like
arrangement of wire mosquito netting
with the top hinged so that the eggs
may be taken out without disturbing
what you do not wish to use. If the
door be in the front center, your sleeve
might remove enough of the suet cover-
ing to spoil the eggs. B. M. P.
* * *
Of Sweet Herbs
HAVE you ever, in the sunny days
of autumn, stepped into your
garden and gathered sweet herbs ?
Have you gathered thyme and mar-
joram in generous bunches, mint and
parsley by the armful,
Green, fresh, aromatic and persuasive,
Each leaf full of necessary moisture
sucked from the soil.
Each leaf a storehouse for wonderful
essences, manufactured in sun and rain?
Have you dried these garnered
branches slowly and carefully, that the
flavor be kept for the long mnter?
Have you tied up little bags of laven-
der flowers to rest with your linen?
Have you cut a spray of lemon ver-
bena and wrapped it with your clothing ?
If you have never done these things.
If you have never bruised these
scented leaves between living fingers.
Then you have missed one of th^
brightest days among the sunny days
of autumn. M. O. B.
* * *
Helpful Hints
1. To keep steak tender, do not salt
it until it is ready to be placed upon the
platter for serving. ■
2. Add a little sugar to peas and corn
(both new and canned) ; it will improve
flavor.
3. In creaming butter and sugar for
a cake, if a little cold water is added it
will cream twice as quickly.
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
229
4. When dough for a cake is being
placed into the tins for baking, push the
dough up well into the corners of the
tin so the cake will be even after it is
baked. G. W. G.
* * *
Afternoon Tea Not a New Fashion
in America
IT is sometimes said that afternoon
tea is a custom copied from England
and that it is a recent one. Would it
not be truer to say that it is an old-
time custom that lapsed for a genera-
tion?
An old lady used to tell the writer,
when she was a child, many stories of-
by-gone years and people of a country
town about thirty miles from Boston.
Among other things described as
customary in the early part of the
nineteenth century was the afternoon
tea. She told how the village doctor's
wife, "Mrs. Dr. B," — funny way of
designating the wife of a professional
man, — used to drive over to see her
mother and take tea. She arrived in a
chaise with a family horse that could be
trusted to hold up the thills borne down
by a number of children tucked in about
her feet. These children, without whom
she could not have left home, were
turned loose to romp with other children
while the two mothers sat down for a
long talk, — principall;^' about church and
neighborhood news. Presently, "Mrs.
Dr. B." would say, "Now Sister Patty,
let's have a snapping dish of tea."
The best china was set out, and bread
and butter or some nice jumbles and
jam; and soon the "snapping cup of tea,"
oft repeated, made the tongues even
more active, until the visit became pro-
longed. Finally, the thought of ap-
proaching sunset, and a family meal
awaiting at the village two miles away
over the hills, would make "Mrs. Dr. B."
call her romping brood to the old chaise.
Then stowing away the children, with
added farewells and words called back
about some recipe, or a reminder about
returning the visit soon and having tea,
the friends parted.
In houses a generation or two older
than that, built in Colonial times, the
corner cupboard, or "beau-fat," as such
were called in incorrect French, are to
be seen. These were filled with the
best china and the precious tea-caddy;
for tea then meant far more than we
often realize, unless we recall its over-
throw in Boston Harbor because of
excessive taxation. J- D- C.
Tea
In life there's many a pleasure,
A bliss for every bane,
Ay, measure take for measure,
There's more of joy than rain.
In thinking, yes, and drinking
Great solace there may be;
And sweeter draught
Was never quaft
Than just a cup of Tea.
Bards sing Amontillado,
And this a regal wine,
A touch of Eldorado
Thrills through the lordly vine.
Oporto and Chianti —
In Champagne, too, there's glee;
But oh, next day —
Take it away!
Bring me a pot of Tea.
Whenever I am tristful
And everything goes wrong;
Or if just merely wistful,
For vanished days I long,
I seek for no magician,
I have to pay no fee
For all comes back
On memory's track
Across a cup of Tea.
Decembertide or Maytime
Neath murky skies or clear.
At evensong, in daytime
At any time of year.
When gay, it makes me gayer,
If sad it makes me see
Hope's rainbow hue,
That heavenly brew
A fragrant cup of Tea.
THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe*
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
lo Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave^ Boston, Mass.
Query No. 2725. — "Recipe for a rich Filling
for Cream Puffs."
Filling for Cream Puffs
1 pint hot milk 2 eggs or four yolks
I cup of flour I cup sugar
I cup sugar | teaspoonful vanilla
i teaspoonful salt
Mix or sift together the flour, salt, and
half-cup of sugar; dilute with the hot
milk, then cook and stir over hot water
until the mixture thickens, then cook,
stirring occasionally, for fifteen minutes ;
beat the eggs, add the rest of the sugar
and stir into the hot mixture; stir until
the eggs look cooked, then cool and
flavor. One-fourth a cup of clear black
coffee may be substituted for the same
quantity of milk, or an ounce of choc-
olate, cooked with two tablespoonfuls,
each, of sugar and water, may be added
to the milk.
Query No. 2726. — "Kindly give explicit
directions for|BroIlIng a Steak over a coal range."
Broiling a Steak
Steaks should be cut from an inch to
an inch and a half thick. From five to
eight minutes' cooking is needed for the
first, and eight to ten minutes for the
latter. When properly broiled the steak
is puffy from the expansion of the
collagen and the moisture imprisoned
within; it is well browned to the depth
of one-eighth of an inch, juicy and
uniformly red in appearance within.
If the length of cooking and the general
appearance of the steak do not indicate
its condition to satisfaction, place the
broiler over a dripping-pan and make a
small clean cut at one end. This will
indicate its condition conclusively.
When done, remove to the serving-dish,
which should be warm; sprinkle with
salt, (omit pepper, unless without doubt
it be agreeable to all), spread with cold
maitre d 'hotel butter — the heat of the
steak should melt the butter — or with
hot Bernaise sauce. Mushroom and
tomato sauce are both admissable.
Garnish with slices of lemon, with water-
cress, pepper-grass, or parsley. Serve
with potatoes in some form. French
fried, Saratoga, mashed, baked (white
or sweet), and escalloped potatoes, are
all in favor with steak.
To Broil a Steak
Wipe, trim off superfluous fat and
flank end if present, pat into shape;
heat the broiler very hot, — a heavy
wire double-broiler is the most conven-
ient — rub it over with a bit of the fat
and put in the meat with the ridge of fat
towards the handle of the broiler, to
insure the basting of the meat during
cooking. At first, hold the broiler close
to the clear coals, count ten and turn;
count ten again and turn; repeat until
the meat has been cooking one minute,
then, the juices being imprisoned by the
strong heat^remove to a greater distance
from the fire, and continue cooking and
turning the rneat every ten seconds, to
insure slow and even cooking. Have the
230
QUERIES AND ANSWERS
231
dampers in the range open as in building
the fire, to carry the smoke from the fat
up the chimney.
Query No. 2727. — "Recipe for a Frozen
Fruit Salad to serve about twenty-five people."
Frozen Fruit Salad
1 can pineapple
1 can white cherries
1 can pears
1 can peaches
2 oranges
Juice of one lemon
I grape fruit
1 pint mayonnaise
1 pint cream, whipped
Cut the fruit the size of a half cherry;
mix fruit, juice, mayonnaise and cream,
turn into the can of a freezer and turn
the crank slowly until the mixture is
frozen; pack the frozen mixture in
quart molds and let stand a half to a full
hour. Serve, cut in slices, with lettuce
hearts and French dressing made with
lemon juice. This will serve between
thirty and forty people.
Query No. 2728. — ■ "Recipes for about four-
teen, attractive, palatable Desserts that are very
economical. These desserts are to be used in a
boys' and girls' boarding school."
Hot Cornstarch Pudding
1 quart milk
f cup cornstarch
z cup sugar
1 teaspoonful salt
2 eggs
I cup sugar
Reserve a little of the milk to mix with
the cornstarch and scald the rest in a
double boiler. When the milk is hot,
stir in the cornstarch mixed with the
cold milk; add the sugar and salt and
stir until the mixture thickens, then
cover and let cook twenty minutes ; beat
the eggs, beat in the second quantity of
sugar and stir into the hot mixture;
cover and let cook, stirring occasionally,
about five minutes or until the egg is set.
Serve with rich milk and sugar or with
Chocolate Sauce
Mix thoroughly together one cup and
a half of granulated sugar and one-fourth
a cup of cocoa ; stir in one cup of boiling
water and let cook, stirring often until
the mixture boils, five or six minutes.
Use'hot or cold. Flavor with half a tea-
spoonful of vanilla extract before using.
Queen of Puddings
2 cup fine soft bread crumbs
4 egg-yolks, beaten light | Grated rind 1 lemon
1 cup sugar i Fruit jelly
4 cups milk | 4 egg-whites
I teaspoonful salt | ^ cup sugar
Add part of the sugar to the crumbs
and part to the beaten yolks, mix thor-
oughly and combine; add the milk and
salt and let bake until firm in the center;
grate the rind over the top and spread
jelly over the whole (sifted apple sauce
or any fruit marmalade or sauce may be
substituted). Beat the whites very
light; gradually beat in the half cup of
sugar and spread over the jelly; dredge
with granulated sugar and return to the
oven until delicately browned. The
meringue should not brown until the
pudding has been in the oven at least
ten minutes.
Mock Indian Pudding
Cut stale bread in slices, a scant half-
inch thick and remove the crusts.
Butter the bread, put the slices together
and cut in cubes. To each cup of cubes
allow two cups of milk, half a teaspoon-
ful of salt and a scant half-cup of molasses.
Bake in a buttered pudding dish, in a
very moderate oven from two to three
hours. Serve hot, with or without
cream.
Boiled Rice, Chocolate Sauce
Boil rice directly over the fire (as
potatoes) and drain, or cook in a double
boiler; serve hot with chocolate sauce
or with hard sauce.
Tapioca Custard
Scald one quart of milk and stir in
one-third a cup of a quick-cooking
tapioca; stir occasionally while cooking
until the tapioca is transparent (about
half an hour). Beat one or two eggs;
beat in half a cup of sugar, and half a
teaspoonful of salt, and stir into the hot
tapioca; continue to cook and stir until
the egg is set. Serve cold in custard
cups.
232
AMERICAN COOKERY
Pineapple Tapioca Sponge
2 cans grated pineapple
1 cup boiling water
1 cup quick cooking
tapioca
If cups sugar
f teaspoonful salt
Grated rind and juice
one lemon
4 egg-whites, beaten
light and firm
To the pineapple add the boiHng water,
tapioca and salt and let cook in a double
boiler until the tapioca is transparent ; add
the sugar, and lemon and when again
hot fold in the egg-whites. Serve hot or
cold with cream and sugar or a thin
custard sauce. Other fruit or fruit
purees may replace the pineapple.
Canned apricots are good for this dish.
Apple Tapioca Pudding
i cup sugar
f teaspoonful cinnamon
10 or 12 apples
1 cup quick cooking
tapioca
5 cups boiling water
1 teaspoonful salt
Cook the tapioca in the boiling,
salted water until transparent. Core
the apples and set them in an agate
baking dish; fill the centers with the
sugar and cinnamon, pour over the hot
tapioca and let bake until the apples are
tender. Serve hot with milk and sugar.
Prune Kuchen
Cover the bottom of a baking dish
with cooked and stoned prunes; make
a soft, rich biscuit mixture (do not have
it stiff enough to knead) and spread this
over the prunes. Let bake until done,
about twenty minutes. Serve hot, cut
in squares, with cream and sugar.
Sliced apples or peaches or canned
apricots may be used in place of the
prunes.
Stewed Figs, with Cream
Stew figs until the skins are tender.
For a pound of figs add one-fourth a
cup of sugar and let simmer six or eight
minutes. Serve cold with thin cream.
Apples Cooked with Dates
Core and pare tart apples and rub
over with the cut side of a lemon to keep
from discoloring; fill the centers with
two or three stoned dates, dredge lightly
with sugar and let bake until done.
Serve with or without thin cream.
Jellied Prunes
1 pound prunes, cooked
1 package (2 ounces)
gelatine
1 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
I cup orange marmalade
or juice of one lemon
Wash the prunes, soak in cold water
to cover overnight, and cook until tender;
cut each prune in three or four pieces,
discarding the stone, (there should be
about five cups of prunes and liquid) ;
dissolve the gelatine softened in the
cold water in the hot prune juice, add
the sugar and marmalade, or the lemon
juice, stir until beginning to thicken,
then turn into a mold. Set aside in a
cool place. When unmolded serve with
sugar and cream — or a boiled custard.
Junket Ice Cream
1 gallon whole milk 4 Junket tablets
1 quart cream 4 tablespoonfuls cold
1 quart sugar water
4 tablespoonfuls vanilla
Turn the milk, cream, sugar and
vanilla into the can of the freezer ; crush
the Junket tablets, mix with the cold
water and stir into the mixture in the
freezer and continue to stir until the
sugar is dissolved, then put the dasher
in place and set the can on the back of
the range or in a pan of lukewarm water ;
the mixture must not be heated higher
than ninety degrees Fahrenheit. When
the mixture has jellied, set it into cold
water to chill, then pack in the freezer
with salt and crushed ice and freeze.
The expense is lessened when it is pos-
sible to freeze the mixture with snow or
ice made by setting a pan of water out-,
side the house. This may be varied
with fruit sauces or with caramel or
chocolate sauce.
Gingerbread, with Whipped Cream
I cup butter
I cup sugar
I cup molasses
1 cup thick sour
milk
If cups pastry flour
1 teaspoonful soda
I teaspoonful salt
1 tablespoonful ginger
1 teaspoonful cin-
namon
Apple jelly
1 cup cream, whipped
2 tablespoonfuls suga r
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T
T)oughnuts You Will Like
HERE is a delicacy about Crisco-made doughnuts that will add to your reputation for serving
dainty things. Tr> Crisco in your next batch and see how crisp, light and sweet they turn out
— dry inside, not soaked with grease but so delicate they please the most exacting taste.
(risco
^ For Frying -ForShorteniag
^i— ' For Cake Makinq
Crisco gives up its heat so quickly a rich brown crust forms immediately — keeping out the fat
— the secret of the superior wholesomeness of all foods fried in Crisco.
Crisco is purely vegetable, the solid cream of edible oil, and easily digested. Over a million Ameri-
can housewives use Crisco because it aids them in preparing distinctively appetizing and tasty foods.
Crisco Doughnuts
golden brown in sixty sec-
l tca^-poonfuls
Crisco
',' cupful sugar
3 cupfuls flour
3 teaspoonfuls
baking powder
f teaspoonful salt
i to 1 teaspoonful
spices (mace, cin-
namon or nutmeg,
or 3 of each)
6 tablespoonfuls milk
(Use accurate level measu?ements)
Cream the Crisco, add the sugar gradually, creaming after each
aildition. Then add the beaten eggs. Mix and sift the dry ingre-
diiMits. .\ild alternately with milk to first mixture. Mixture should
Ik- viTv soft. Form into a ball, place -on a well-floured board and
roll to Diic-half inch thickness. Cut and fry in Crisco hot enough
to brown a one-inch cube of bread
onds. Makes 20 to 25 doughnuts.
"The Whys of Cooking"
Have you seen "The Whys of Cooking"? Every housewife
should send for this valuable addition to the Cnsco Library by
Janet McKenzie Hill of the Bobton Cooking School Some of
your own problems in cookery or serving may be found among
the hundreds of questions asked and answered. Handsomely
bound. Illustrated in color. Filled with practical suggestions.
Contains 150 new recipes and the Story of Cnsco. Sent for five
2-cent stamps. Address Dept. A-10, The Procter A Gamble Co..
Cincinnati, Ohio.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
233
234
AMERICAN COOKERY
Cream the butter; beat in the sugar
and molasses, add the sour milk then
the flour sifted with the soda, salt,
ginger and cinnamon. Bake in two
layer cake pans, put the layers together
with jelly and when cold, cover the
top with whipped cream. Sprinkle with
chopped nut meats if desired. This
cake will serve ten.
Recipes for Rebecca Pudding, Corn-
starch Blancmange and Sea Moss Farine
Blancmange, all simple and easily made
desserts, may be found in the June-July
number of this magazine.
Query No. 2729. — "Recipe for a Fruit Cake
made with graham flour."
Whole Wheat Fruit Cake
2 cups entire wheat flour
^ teaspoonful soda
1| teaspoonfuls mixed
spices
1 cup sour milk
I cup butter
1^ cups sugar
1 cup seeded raisins
1 egg beaten without
separating
i cup pastry flour
Add the raisins (currants or nuts may
be substituted) to the butter and sugar
creamed together, then the egg and, al-
ternately, the flour sifted with the soda
and spices and the sour milk. Turn the
mixture into small tins — it will take
eighteen — and dredge the tops with
granulated sugar. Bake about twenty-
five minutes.
This cake may be made with graham
flour, but is made more successfully with
whole wheat flour. If graham flour be
used, fit small papers into the bottom of
the tins as the cake is quite liable to
stick to the pans.
Query No. 2730. — "Recipes for Bran Muffins
and Bran Bread or Biscuit that call for very lit-
tle sweetening. Does a mixture of half flour and
half bran require as much baking powder as a
an article made of all flour?"
Bran Muffins
2 cups bran
1 cup whole-wheat flour
3 teaspoonfuls baking
powder
I tablespoonful salt
3 tablespoonfuls short-
ening
2 tablespoonfuls mo-
lasses
1| cups thick sour milk
I teaspoonful soda
Sift together the flour, baking powder,
salt and soda; add the bran, melted
shortening, molasses and milk and mix
thoroughly. Bake in hot well-buttered
muffin pan about half an hour. In this
recipe the same quantity of leavening
would not be very appetizing. All
sweetening may be omitted, if not de-
sired.
One Loaf Bran Bread
1 cake compressed yeast
J cup lukewarm water
1 cup scalded milk
1 teaspoonful shortening
I teaspoonful salt
I teaspoonful molasses
or sugar
3 cups wholewheat flour
or white bread flour
Bran as required for
kneading, about 3 cups
Mix the yeast through the water; dis-
solve the shortening in the milk ; add the
salt, molasses or sugar, the yeast in the
water and stir in the flour and bran;
knead until smooth, cover and let stand
until doubled in bulk, cut down and
shape into a loaf; when again light bake
one hour.
Query No. 2731.— "Recipes for Damson Pre-
serves also for Damson Sweet Pickles."
Damson Preserves
Prick the plums with a coarse needle
in five or six places, that the skin may
not burst. Weigh the fruit and allow
three-fourths a pound of sugar to a
pound of fruit. Take a cup of boiling
water for each pound of sugar; dissolve
the sugar in the water, let boil about five
minutes and skim ; add the plums, a few
at a time, and let simmer until soft.
Remove the fruit to jars with a skimmer;
add other fruit and cook as before until
all is cooked; drain all syrup in the jars
into the saucepan, let boil until reduced
somewhat, then use to fill the jars. Seal
as canned fruit or store in earthen jars
as jelly.
Sweet Pickled Damsons
I cup stick cinnamon in
inch lengths
I cup whole cloves
8 pounds plums
4| pounds sugar
1 pint vinegar
1 cup water
Prick the plums in several places.
Make a syrup of the sugar, vinegar,
water and spices; add the plums, cover
and heat to the boiling point. Set aside
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j.^^©^ Ojlmm^
3%^c^^c^ ^
Old Dutc^
Cleanser
^Hascs
Dirt
uicKiy wuts
Burnt -in
Crusts and Grease
rom
Baking
y^
%v
/
/
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
235
236
AMERICAN COOKERY
covered until the next day. Skim the
plums into jars; boil the syrup until
thick, pour over the plums and seal.
With firm plums, reheat in the syrup
then skim to the jars and reduce the
syrup by boiling then finish as before.
Query No. 2732,— "Recipe for Custard Ren-
versee given in the menus in 1915, also recipe
for Divinity Cake."
Custard Renversee
I cup granulated sugar
4 eggs or 2 eggs and 4
yolks
1 tablespoonful salt
i cup sugar
2 cups milk
Stir the half cup of sugar in a small
sauce pan over a quick fire until the
sugar melts and becomes light brown in
color. Lift the pan from the fire occa-
sionally and stir constantly to prevent
burning. As soon as the sugar is melted,
turn it into a mold that holds nearly
three cups. With an oven cloth held in
both hands, take up the mold and tip it
from side to side to coat, or line, it com-
pletely with caramel. The work must
be done very quickly or the caramel will
harden before the mold is completely
lined. Beat the eggs (two eggs and four
yolks make a richer custard than four
whole eggs), add the salt, and sugar and
beat again ; add the milk and strain into
the mold. Set into a baking pan on
many folds of paper and surround with
boiling water, to half the height of the
mold, let cook in the oven until firm in
the center. The water should not boil
during the cooking. Let chill, then turn
from the mold ; the caramel will coat the
custard and form a sauce on the dish.
Divinity Fudge Cake
1 cup butter
1| cups sifted brown
sugar
2 egg-yolks
^ cup sifted brown sugar
4 ounces chocolate
(melted)
i cup hot water
I cup thick sour milk
2^ cups flour
1 teaspoonful soda
2 egg-whites, beaten
very light
I teaspoonful ground
cinnamon
I teaspoonful ground
cloves
i cup chopped raisins
Beat the butter to a cream and gradu-
ally beat in the cup and a half of sugar.
Beat the egg-yolks light; beat in the half
cup of sugar and beat the two mixtures
together; add the chocolate, then, alter-
nately, the warm water and sour milk
with the flour sifted with the soda ; lastly,
beat in the egg-whites. Have three
layer-cake pans well buttered; put cake
mixture into two of these, leaving one-
third of it in the bowl ; to the mixture in
the bowl add the spices and raisins, mix
and turn into the third pan ; bake about
twenty minutes. Put the layers to-
gether and cover the outside with
Divinity Frosting
2 cups sugar
^ cup Karo or corn syrup
2 egg-whites, beaten
very light
i^ cup water
1 cup pecan nut meats
i teaspoonful salt
4 figs cut in pieces
Use granulated, brown or maple sugar
or a mixture of these ; add the corn syrup
and water and boil to 240 degrees Fah-
renheit (sugar thermometer) or to soft
ball stage. Pour the syrup on the egg-
whites, beating constantly meanwhile,
continue to beat until the mixture holds
its shape, then add the nuts and figs, the
salt and flavoring to suit the taste.
Query No. 3733 — "Give suggestions in re-
gard to the planning of the menus in a girls
college, where four hundred pupils are enrolled,
and a close watch on expenditures must be made."
Catering for the Table, in a Girls'
College
A close watch on expenditures is essen-
tial in the planning of dietaries every-
where. First of all, let girls be well fed,
the health of the nation depends on it;
then if there be money, let them by all
means be well educated. College girls
and boys are still growing and need an
abundance of nutritious palatable food ;
often the question should be, how can
the food be so presented that it will be
eaten in abundance, rather than how
may the table be supplied with the least
expense. Protein in the form of meat,
fish, eggs, milk and grains should be pro-
vided liberally, and be supplemented
with root and green vegetables and fresh
fruit. Cooks endowed with versatilitv
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Better home made candies
You know how good Carnation Milk is in coffee and cocoa
and how excellent it is for cooking and baking.
No'w try it for making fudge and candy. The result "will please yoa
and delight the young folks. The purity of Carnation Milk is assured,
because it is hermetically sealed and sterilized.
Let your own experience with it convince
you that it adds Ravor and is most convenient.
To reduce the richness of Carnation Milk
simply add pure water. Our new recipe book
gives over one hundred everyday and special
uses. Write for a free copy to Carnation Milk
Products Company, 1058 Stuart Building, Seat-
tle, U. S. A.
I Carnation Milk Fudge
I Two cups sugar, }4 cake good
j chocolate(uns\A^eetened); but-
I ter size of an egg; two-thirds
j cup of Carnation Milk. Put all
j in saucepan and allow^ to boil
j until it forms a soft ball in cold
j water. W^hen cooked add a
j tablespoon of vanilla and stir
I until thick. Add chopped nuts
j if desired. Then pour intobut-
I tered pans and allow to cool.
I Cut in squares.
Ask your grocer- ^"the Carnation Milkman
pm
'■From Contented'f^i
Clean
Sweet
Pure
The answer to the milk question: k
^ NSSJ^^i^
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
237
238
AMERICAN COOKERY
and imagination are quite as essential in
the college kitchens as learned professors
in the class rooms. As a rule, there is
too much monotony at college tables;
not enough attention is given to the
bread supply, and breakfast cereals are
eaten in too large quantities. Fried food
is rarely seen, but deep fat frying, care-
fully carried out, is well worth occasional
presentation; especially is this so when
the fried dish takes the form of filets of
fresh fish. Junket ice cream, with some
one of the many sauces that young people
like, is a good means of rounding out a
dinner, lacking in the protein element.
The woman who has the oversight of a
college table needs to be well grounded
in dietetics and in the actual manipula-
tion of food products, and she must be
willing to bury herself in her work from
the beginning to the end of the school
session.
Wash Your Food
The Pennsylvania Health Commis-
sioner, Doctor Samuel L. Dixon, warns
against eating raw food unless it is thor-
oughly washed.
"Care should be exercised in the prep-
aration and serving of green foods, as
they are subject to much handling be-
tween the garden and the table. Un-
less the hands through which they pass
are absolutely clean they are raore or
less contaminated. Food exposed for
sale in markets is also often subject to
indiscriminate handling by prospective
purchasers, and is seldom properly pro-
tected from dust and dirt.
**As a protection, berries and food-
stuffs eaten raw should be washed
before being served. It is far better to
risk a slight impairment of the flavor
than to chance eating unclean foods."
Whenever I hear a good new story,
says Irvin vS. Cobb, or a good old story
dressed up in new clothes and well pre-
sented by its present sponsor, I say to
myself that that's the best story I ever
heard.
The Little Old Lady in the Gardens
It was Paris — in springtime.
But the little old lady in the carriage
had no eyes for the milliner girls, with
their bandboxes, smiles and bunches of
flowers. Even the budding of the elms
and the chestnuts, the gay spots of the
boulevard, meant nothing to her any
more.
She sat very straight, for an elderly
lady, in the landau. Her weary-lidded
eyes were half shut; but it made no dif-
ference, for she saw things just as clearly
— thinking back as old people will. Now
and again she would smile tremulously
at her two companions, and they would
nod in sympathetic comprehension over
what most of the hurrying world had
forgotten. As the horses turned from
the Champs Elysees, the friends watched
her the more kindly. The carriage
swung about a great open place vibrant
with the shimmer of verdure crowding in-
to full green — Paris, the captive of spring.
As for the little old lady, she only
pressed her agitated lips together, then
beckoned the coachman onto the curb.
Her friends hastened to step out; she
laid a detaining hand on the door, a re-
monstrance of quiet dignity.
"No, my dear."
Would they remain in the carriage for
a little while, because it was an old per-
son's wish — to be alone in the Gardens ?
They would, of course.
Not even the footman to follow her ?
Not even the footman.
And she smiled her appreciation to
them.
She had not long, this springtime, in
Paris. Moreover, one could not tell if
there would be another for her. Old
people could not count too much on to-
morrow. Long ago she had learned that
it was only yesterdays that never failed,
no matter how often taken from the
coverings of the past.
She idled down the walks among the
nursemaids with their serge caps and
starched linen, and the precisely dressed
ADVERTISEMENTS
Through Vera Cruz in
Mexico comes most of the
world's choicest vanilla
beans. Over one-half o*
the best of this crop is
taken for Burnett's Va-
nilla. In certain poor
seasons no really first
choice beans are pro-
duced. A reserve stock
therefore is kept from
year to year to insure
the uniform high qual-
ity of Burnett's Vanilla.
Marshmallow Pudding
Soak 1 tablespoonful gela-
tine in V2 cup water. Beat
whites of 2 eggs and add 1
cup sugar. Add 1/2 cup hot
water to gelatine mixture
and then add the beaten
eggs. Beat 20 minutes,
flavor with 3^ teaspoonful
Burnett's Vanilla, place in
mold and serve cold.
Why Vanilla
, flavor differs
^1 so much
/ Anyone can make pure Vanilla Ex-
tract — and thousands do. Vanilla
beans can be bought for as little as
two dollars a pound — but they are of
a very low grade. Tonka beans cost
even less, but taste only something
like vanilla. An extract made of two
dollar materials is "pure" vanilla, but
how different from one made of high
quality vanilla beans alone. For more
than half a century only the pick of
the Mexican bean crop — which is
admittedly the best in the world —
has been used in making
^^^NILlIiO^
The delicate flavor, the rich deliciousness, the
concentration of this famous extract make its
use not only a delight to the palate but also a
positive economy. You can get it — if you
want it.
DESSERT BOOK — FREE
Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy
of "115 Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful.
Joseph Burnett Co.
36 India Street, Boston, Mass.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
239
240
AMERICAN COOKERY
children. The young ones stared after
her — she seemed in some way the grand-
mother of them all. And the nurses
stopped flirting with the gendarmes long
enough to wonder who she was, this old
lady. As for her, the dead years fell
away while she lived again other morn-
ings spent in the Gardens when it was
springtime — the springtime of her days.
He-he \ an old one! . . . She saw that
the paths were nicely graveled — just as
they used to be ; the grass plots were as
blatant a green as in the other times.
Even a flower bed — !
She stepped closer and blinked her
eyes, for they were not what they once
were. Something hard kept coming
into her throat as she reached for the
single bloom. ...
"Pardon, madame, but it is not per-
mitted to pick the flowers here !"
At the sound of the rough voice, peril-
ously near, the little old lady started.
She turned, to be confronted by a gar-
dener standing inflexibly in the path. In
a flash the reminiscent happiness drop-
ped from her worn face.
The man shifted apologetically at the
sight of the pain in the little old lady's
eyes — maledict'ons on the rules! He
caught at his hat, relenting, with a jerk
of courtesy
"But the flower in the hand, it is that
you may keep it," he added, not un-
graciously.
Agitated, the other clutched the ne
m'ouhliez pas in her thin white fingers.
The gardener coughed discreetly.
**If it might be asked — your name?"
"My name?" repeated the little old
lady. She looked at the forget-me-not
in her hand, then away up the path.
There seemed to be something recalled
by it, for she drew herself up in a kind of
imperial dignity. The gardener was al-
most impressed. Une grande dame ? He
regarded her closely as she spoke.
"I am Eugenie," she said simply.
She smiled upon the republican with
distant sweetness. She walked up the
newly raked gravel, slowly, clasping the
forget-me-not.
The gardener gazed after her —
scratched his head.
"Eugenie! what do you know?"
blankly interrogated the man. "Eu-
genie — eh, now — Eugenie what?" '
— The Chimaera.
Physical Preparedness
The belief seems to be growing that
physical training in the American public
schools should be standardized, greatly
improved, and made obligatory. The
Swiss system, which begins with young-
sters of eight or ten years, or some adap-
tation thereof, is being strongly urged in
many quarters. Adoption of such a
system, administered by carefully
trained and thoroughly competent in-
structors, ought in very few years to
bring American youth to the requisite
degree of "physical preparedness" —
which would fit them, broadly speaking,
for better and more useful citizenship in
peace as in war time.
The standard of success neatly por
trayed by Short Stories will be appre-
ciated by the devotees of church bazars :
Mabel: Was your bazar a success?
Gladys: Yes, indeed, the minister
will have cause to be grateful.
Mabel : How much were the profits ?
Gladys: Nothing. The expenses
were more than the receipts. But ten of
us got engaged, and the minister is in for
a good thing in wedding fees.
-The Daily Use in the Home of
Vlatts Chlorides .
TheOdorlessDisinfectant.
Is not a Luxury but
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It Protects Health and
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AMERICAN COOKERY
To Crown the Breakfast Table
There are three royal cereals — Puffed Wheat, Puffed Rice and Corn Puffs — ^
made to crown your breakfast table.
However you regard them — ^ as foods or as dainties — nothing else made from
these grains can compare with them.
As fascinating foods — as hygienic foods — they represent the pinnacle of what
these grains can offer.
Tit-Bits Shot From Guns
Puffed Grains seem like bonbons. 'They are
airy, flaky bubbles with a most enticing taste.
But Puffed Wheat and Rice are wLole grains
with every food cell exploded. By Prof. Ander-
son's process they are made so that every atom
feeds.
The grains are sealed in guns. They are
given terrific heat. All the moisture in them is
changed to steam. Then the guns are shot, and
the steam explodes. There occur in each kernel
a hundred million explosions.
The result is, wholegrains made wholly digest-
ible. Every element is made available. No
other method of cooking these grains breaks
more than half of the food cells.
That is why Puffed Grains, with folks who
know, form such a large part of the diet.
PuffedWheat
Puffed Rice
Corn PuiFs — Bubbles of Com Hearts — 1 5c
Except
in
Far
West
12c
15c
At Bedtime
At breakfast, of course, you serve with sugar and cream.
Or mixed with any fruit. But for luncheons or suppers
serve in bowls of milk or cream. Use in place of bread and
crackers. ■ .
Then you have whole grains, toasted and flaky, ready
to melt in the mouth. You have foods which don't tax the
stomach. And you know that every element feeds.
A home misses much which doesn't keep all three of
these foods on hand.
The Quaker Qdits (^mpany
(1395)
Sole Makers
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
241
The Silver Lining
Lonesomeville
"Pore folks lives at Lonesomeville
Lawzy! but they're pore!
Houses with no winders in,
And hardly any door:
Chimbly all tore down, and no
Smoke in that at all —
Jst a stovepipe through a hole
In the kitchen- wall!
Pump that's got no handle on;
And no woodshed — And woohl
Mighty cold there, choppin' wood,
Like pore-folks has to do!
Winter-time, and snow and sleet
Jst fairly fit to kill! —
Hope to goodness Sartty Claus
Goes to Lonesomeville!"
James Whitcomh Riley
Some time ago, says the Christian En-
deavor World, Mrs. Brown called at the
home of Mrs. Jones to talk over the fash-
ions and things, and somewhere about
the sixty-fifth lap of the conversation
the caller referred to the young daughter
of the host.
OBLONO RUBBER BUTTON
HOSE
SUPPORTER
The Oblong Rubber
Button is an exclusive
feature of Velvet Grip
goods. This most im-
portant modem improve-
ment in hose supporters has
taken the place of the old-
fashioned round button. It
is a cushion of solid live
rubber, and because of its
large holding surface it pre-
vents tearing and drop
stitches.
Bay corsets having the hose
supporters with the Oblong
Rubber Button.
Sample set of four
*Sew-ons* ' for women,
50 cents, postpaid.
Sample pair of "Pin-
ons" for children, 15
cents postpaid [give
age]. Sample pair of
"Baby Midgets'* for
infants— lisle, 10 cents;
silk. 1 5 cents, postpaid.
"By the way, dear," remarked Mrs.
Brown inquisitively, "where is Minnie?
I haven't seen her for ^n age."
"Minnie is at college," proudly re-
sponded the fond mother and then added :
"And I am so worried about her. I
haven't had a letter from her for nearly
two weeks."
"There is where you made a mistake,"
was the prompt rejoinder of Mrs. Brown.
"Instead of letting her go to college why
didn't you send her to one of those cor-
respondence schools?"
A Colonel by Marriage
The Dundee Advertizer is responsible
for this latest version of a war-time story.
A traveler in Texas says that he was
riding along a cattle-trail near the New
Mexico line when he met a rather pom-
pous-looking native of the region, who
introduced himself as Colonel Higgins,
of Devil's River.
"Were you a colonel in the Confeder-
ate army?" the traveler asked.
"No, sah."
"On the Union side, then?"
"No, sah; nevah was in no wah."
"Belong to the Texas Rangers?"
"No, sah; I do not."
"Ah, I see; you conimand one of the
State militia regiments."
"No, sah; I don't. Don't know noth-
ing about soldiering."
"Where, then, did you get the rank of
colonel?"
"I'se a kunnel by marriage, sah."
"By marriage? How's that?"
"I married the widow of a kunnel, sah
— Kunnel Thompson, of Waco."
m GEORGE FROST COMPANY,
nil
MAKERS, BOSTON g
IlilllllllllllllillilllillllllillllllllllllllliilllllilJilll
The Farm Point of View
A man traveling in Maine met a mid-
dle-aged farmer, who said his father,
ninety years old, was still on the farm
where he was born. The Western
Christian Advocate reproduces the ensu-
ing conversation.
"Ninety years old, eh?"
242
ADVERTISEMENTS
iillllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll^^^
How inviting it loohs
In Pyrex food bakes so uni-
, formly and quickly that it practi-
cally never burns. You can watch
the baking right through this
transparent ware, without remov-
ing from the oven. Then you
may serve in the same dish.
In serving pies each cut comes
from the plate without sticking
— smooth and whole. The pie
is an even delicate brown from
rim to rim^the bottom baked
( as perfectly as the top. On the
table it is attractive and
appetizmg.
.TRADE MARK RE&
Transparent
Oven-Ware
Has the name on every piece
Use Pyrex in any oven. It does not craze, crack
nor flake; absorbs no odors. It is durable, practical,
easily washed, immaculately clean and sanitary.
Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 1 5c to
large casseroles at ^2. Dealers in house- wares every-
where sell Pyrex. Ask them for
booklet. .^-^^i^^
CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave.
CORNING, N. Y., U. S. A. Established 1868
illlllllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllll
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
243
AMERICAN COOKERY
Make Your Cream 100%
Efficient with
^REMO y ESCO
For Whipped Cream use equal
parts of heavy cream amd milk vi^ith
CREMO-VESCO.
A 20-25 % cream with all its richness
and viscosity made available by Cremo-
Vesco is much more satisfactory for
whipping than a heavy cream. It whips
up as easily and as stiffly. It keeps
sweet from 12-24 hours longer. It makes
a rich tasting whipped cream without
any of the "too rich" results of heavy
cream. It cuts your cream bill in half.
CREMO-VESCO makes the pure all
cream whipped cream and ice cream.
Household size, prepaid, 25 cents. 16
ounce bottle vrhips up 75 quarts of cream,
$1.00.
Order direct or through your grocer.
Cremo-Vesco Company
631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN. N.Y.
STICKNEY & POOR'S
FLAVORING EXTRACTS
In 10c and 20c sizes
Like all Stickney & Poor Products they are manufactured in strict
accordance with the long established ideds, — ideals which have
made the name Stickney & Poor honored for over a hundred years.
SO GOOD, SO RELIABLE
For Goodness Sake if you want pure, dehciouc and economical
Flavorings, say "Stickney & Poor's" to your grocer.
Your Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT
STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY ^
1815- -Century Old— Century Honored- 1916 f
BOSTON, MASS.
"Yes, pop is close to ninety."
"Is his health good?"
"'Taint much now. He's been com-
plaining for a few months back."
"What's the matter with him?"
"I dunno; sometimes I think farmin'
don't agree with him."
Mrs. Flanagan's Change of Air
This Irish colloquy comes from the
Pittsburgh Chronicle- Telegraph :
Flanagan sat on his front doorstep en-
joying the balmy freshness of the spring
evening.
Presently his neighbor Murphy paused
by the fence for a chat.
"A foine av'nin," said he, pleasantly.
"But why isn't Mrs. Flanagan wid ye
enj'yin' the air?"
"Sure, Mike," replied Flanagan,
"the missus has gone for a change av
air."
"Has she, now?" replied Murphy,
interested. "And Oi hope the change
will do her good. And where was she
after goin'? Broighton, Oi suppose?"
"Then ye suppose wrong," Flanagan
informed him. "Sure, an' isn't she
seated at this moment on the back
doorstep?"
A Moral Lesson Somewhere
At the end of a South Carolina negro
meeting, as Case and Comment tells the
story, it was decided to take up a collec-
tion for charity. The chairman passed
the hat himself. He dropped a dime in
it for a nest-egg.
Well, every right hand there entered
that hat, and yet, at the end, when the
chairman turned the hat over and shook
it, not so much as his own contribution
dropped out.
"Fo' de lan's sake!" he cried. "Ah's
eben los' de dime Ah stahted wiv!"
All the rows of faces looked puzzled.
Who was the lucky man? Finally the
venerable Calhoun White summed up
the situation.
"Breddern," he said solemnly, rising
from his seat, "dar 'pears ter be a great
moral lesson roun' heah somewhar."
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
244
ADVERTISEMENTS
IAl diocxdate-flavored wl
iMsp baMii^ a filHno of ciiil
flawared cream,aiiother choc^
llaiii«d wafer, this is ANOLi
the Ivii^arAvafer cranfec^^ eve
6q>i|p|>priate, ever appreciate!
nM"1C)NAL BISGU IT COM RAN
• fl 11 1 1 • 1 ill
uy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
245
^
AMERICAN COOKERY
400,000 Housewives are using this Extractor
Five Times As Big As Picture
Sent to You
At Actual Cost to Us
Fits biggest oranges as well as sjjiallest lemons, and gets
all the Juice. Just hold under faucet to clean. Made
of heavy, tough glass, so it lasts a lifetime; you've no
idea how convenient it is. Send for yours now. Stamps
will do.
If your dealer hasn't this big Sunkist Orange Juice Extractor
— 5 34 inches in diameter, 8 inches from handle to spout— send us
16c (if the town you Hve in is Ea t of the Missouri River) or 24c
(if your town is West of the Missouri River or in Canada) and
we'll send direct charges prepaid.
We make offer at actual cost to ub merely to make it easier
for our customers to prepare healthful orange juice.
Address
California Fruit Growers Exchange
A Non-profit Co-operative Organization of 8000 Growers
Dept. B 80. 139 N. Clark Street. Chicago
(574)
Easy to Make - Delicious and Nourishing
Six Pure Natural Flavors
^^V.'«^Sk«^-^ \o» -
Lemon
Orange
Raspberry
NESMfiR
TRY IT^pi^
THC JUNk'c't Vo LK S \
Or Hin»nl [ jborjtory LrtlkFtfIs NV
Vanilla
Almond
Chocolate
Made with warm milk
A postcard xvill bring a free sample and a
booklet of recipes
THE JUNKET FOLKS
Box 2507
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc. - Little Falls, N. Y.
A Perfect Cake
(Continued from page 199)
At last they had captured the enemy's
trench; they were in it; some of the men
had escaped, but thick around them
were the dying and dead. And there
were prisoners. One of these was a
private who had been wounded, it was
at the moment uncertain how seriously;
but evidently, he was suffering much and
he was so young; to Atkinson he did
not look more than seventeen. His
captor forgot that he was an enemy,
that he was a German; poor fellow, he
was suffering, and now that he had
ceased fighting, he was a brother. The
captain laid his hand on the young
fellow's shoulder. "Cheer up!" he said
to him in German, "you'll be looked
after — - 1 mean your wounds — as soon
as possible. Then I hope you'll not
have to fight us much longer." Then
an impulse made him add, "And when
the war is over and you're in your own
home once more, we'll all be friends
again. Isn't that so? Isn't that better
than war?"
"Home!" echoed the young prisoner
with indescribable pathos. "When will
that be? I know not what has become
of them; they keep back our letters
from home because they tell of pain and
hunger. Oh, to see them once more!
To have one word from them!"
"Sit down here," said the other as he
tried to bind up the wound, to stop the
bleeding until the surgeon could attend
to it, or until one of the Red Cross knights
would come to him. "Oh, home! home!"
repeated the young fellow, his self-
restraint broken down by hearing his
native tongue spoken by his enemy.
For Atkinson was somewhat of a lin-
guist. "Just for a word from home!"
And the tears in the boy's eyes over-
flowed.
"There!" said Atkinson. "That will
do until somebody who knows more
can take you in hand. Keep up heart,
young fellow. You'll be all right soon;
we'll take good care of you so long as
you're our prisoner." Then at another
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
246
ADVERTISEMENTS
THREE INGREDIENTS of
THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER ■^'^owDii
RYZON contains bicarbonate of soda, cornstarch, pure
. monosodium phosphate crystals and nothing else.
Bicarbonate of soda is common to all baking powders.
Its properties are known to all women, for it is almost a
household necessity.
Cornstarch, too, is an ingredient of all baking powders.
In every kitchen it is in general use. No one questions its
desirability as a food.
Monosodium phosphate is new.
Its newness is certified by patent granted by U. S.
Government.
It is exclusive to RYZON, The Perfect Baking Powder,
and it is in a large part responsible for its perfection.
The opinions of famous pure food, domestic science and
cooking experts have established the desirability of mono-
sodium phosphate.
Moreover, science conclusively shows that man cannot
live without phosphates in his food.
10c, 18c and 3Sc
If your grocer cannot sup"
ply you, send 3Sc for a
pound tin to address below.
GENERAL CHEMICAL COMPANY
FOOD DEPARTMENT
25 BROAD STREET
NEW YORK CITY
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
247
AMERICAN COOKERY
Make Your Cooking
Perfect Cooking
(r& wford
Make Good Cooking A Habit
The Crawford Single Damper is one of
twenty reasons why. A single move of an always-
cool knob instantly regulates "Kindle," "Bake"
or "Check-'* It saves coal.
The Crawford Oven is another wonderful
aid to good cooking. The curved cup-joint
flues distribute the heat evenly. There are no
hot or cold corners.
Our improved combination ranges have sep-
arate ovens for coal aad gas — both ovens
perfect.
Inspect the Crawford line at your Dealer's.
You will find a
wide range of
styles and sizes to
fit every idea,
purpose and price.
'X
Walker & Pratt
Mfg. Co.
Makers of Highest
Qualiiy Ranges
■■& furnaces and Boilers
Boston, U. S. A.
repetition of the other's longing cry for
home, a suggestion came to his listener.
H-e took out the remains of the cake he
had thrust ijito his pocket as he started
on the change, and broke off a piece.
"This came from my home in America,"
he said in a tone that those about him
could not catch. "Just imagine that it
came from your home and eat this. It
is home food, you see. Think of it as a
home message."
The young soldier looked at him in
amazement . and _gratitude;^. .and as he
tasted the cake, an expression of satis-
faction overspread his pale features.
He nodded emphatically. "Yes — yes, ' '
he pronounced, "it is just exactly the
very same as hers — the very same."
He looked up at the other with a smile
full of pathos. "It talks of home; you
bring it nearer," he said.
Atkinson wondered what Anna would
say if she saw how he was using her
cake? And if the good work it was
doing was not another evidence that it
w^as incomparable?
Should he ever be able to tell her face
to face ?
Six months later the shot that wounded
him sent him home to her.
CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS
Pickles, Relishes. Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Rip(
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clear
pure unadulterated California products from producer tc
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble t(
answer inquiries-
JOHN T. GRIFFITH
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal
Then trade^mark
^ery packagv
lET FOR
DIABETICS
emnatisin, Obesity
"^ Uric Acid
sician."^^ading grocen
let or sa^cle, wt
. Watc?town.N.Y^lLS.A.
POMPEIAN
OLIVE OIL
ALWAYS FRESH
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
248
ADVERTISEMENTS
Canning Club Girls use
RUBBER RINGS
Government canning teachers insist on thick, elas-
tic Rubber Rings which make an air-tight seal.
GOOD LUCK RUBBER RINGS are the very best made.
Send a 2c stamp for booklet, "Good Luck in Preserving," with 33 original recipes
and an assortment of gummed labels. If your dealer cannot
supply you, send 10c for 1 dozen rings
BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO.Dept. 3 Cambridge. Mass.
ITNTISIT AT '^"^°^'' ^^ Luncheon Menus containing 183 recipes.
UilUuU/llj Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv-
ered 32c. Address King's Daaghters Society, 2320 E. lstSt.,DaIath.Mino.
Domestic Science
Home-Stxady Covirses
Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children.
For Homemakers, Teachers and for
well-paid positions.
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents.
" Five Gent Meals," 10 cents.
AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO
ALL KINDS OF LABOR AND MONEY-SAVING DEVICES
will be found in beautiful catalog sent on request
FRANK SPECIALTY HOUSE, Inc., Dept. 3, 433 Lenox Ave, New York
Salt Mackerel
CODFISH,
FRESH
LOBSTER
FOR THE \
CONSUMER >
%
NOT THE
DEALER
FOR YOUR OWN TABLE
'^
FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied DIRECT
from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. DAVIS
COMPANY, with newly caught, KEEPABLE OCEAN FISH,
choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish.
We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT sending
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY
express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appe-
tizing and economical and we want YOU to try some, pay-
ment subject to your approval.
SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not
spoil on your hands.
CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from
meat, at a much lower cost.
FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads-
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come toyou
as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as
crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell yourself.
FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your whole
iamily will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of clams,
whether fried or in a chowder.
FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, SAL-
MON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY for
salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing packed
here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep right
on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. ^...•*
With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES ...••'*'
for preparing all our products. Write for it. Our ...-•■'prank E.
list tells how each kind of fish is put up, with ^..••'' Davis Co.
the delivered price, so you can choose ..•••■ fii:r»„», i wi. u
just what you will enjoy most. ...••- riouctS^t M?«
Send coupon for it now. ...••- ^, Gloucester, Mass.
cntxTV r nAirrcrn •••'' Flease sendmeyour latest
FRANK E. DA\ IS CO. ...- fish I rice List.
65 Central Wharf
Gloucester, ...••'' Kame
Mass.
..••■' Street . ...
City.
Slalt.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
249
AMERICAN COOKERY
Requires
No Soaking
^J^.
A Dish That Tempts
Tapioca Cream Served with Fruit
Beats strawberry shortcake! More
wholesome, too. Send now for a free
copy of the Minute Cook Book.
It's brimful of seasonable suggestions
tor delicious, dainty desserts.
MINUTE TAPIOCA CO., 810 E. Main St., Orange, Mass.
^^
Give This For Christmas
apd designs sent on 15 days' free trial. We pay the freight.
A Piedmont protects furs, woolens and plumes from moths, mice,
dust and damp. Distinctly beautiful. Charmingly frasrant. A real
money and worry saver. Practically everlasting. '
Finest Christmas, wedding or birthday gift at great
savin?. TTriie today for our great catalog
ancL reduced, prices, postpaid free
Reduced Factory
Prices
Freight Prepaid
Piedmont Red Cedar Chest Company, Dent. 48, Statesville, N. C.
y^y>>^>^>l^.^;k>}^^,.^>f^^^M::..^^^>^^^^^^^
«> II i ' lM I'
iBiiiiir
Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72
Hours or Steaming Hot 2 4 Hours
A necessity in every home — indispensable "when
traveling or on any outing. Keeps baby's
milk at right temperature, or invalid's
hot or cold drink all night without heat,
ice or bother of preparation.
Thoroughly protected against breakage.
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass.
Instantly demountable — easy to keep clean.
Typical Icy-Hot Values
No. 31; Bottle— Black Morocco Leath-
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5.25
No„ 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for
oysters,solidfood,ete.Pt. 3100; Qt. 4.50
No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine
and tan, Pt. 1.75; Ot. 2.75
No. 871. Lunch Kit with enameled pint
bottle and drinking cup 3 25
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle Qt. 9.00
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer
cannot supply you, accept no sub-
stitute—we will supply you direct^
at above prices, charges pre-
paid. Write for catalog show-
ing many styles from $1 up.
Icy- Hot Bottle Co.,
^ Cincinnati,
Ohio
The quick method of making bread
through the use of
Fleischmann's Yeast
is the easiest way and gives the
best results. Write for our new
recipe book that tells just how to
do it.
The Fleischmann Company
701 Washington Street
New York City
SUPERIOR HOUSEHOLD ARTICLES
LADD MIXER-CHURNS
No. 1, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD
BEATERS insert into and remove from same :
only ones thus made. We warrant they saye
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti-
ful Made, By Parcel Post %
No. 1. $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. Stales.
No. 1, 2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States
No. 2, 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West
CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE
"SATURN"
CLOTHESLINE REEL
A round Steel Ball^dusl proof*
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft.
line, tested to 180 lbs. — takes
present clothes-pin. Use out-door
or in-door. Hangs anywhere. Two
spreading rings. Positively the best
made at any price. Sent Parcel
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.; nickel-
ed and polished, 65c.
LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES
PLEASE WRITE
UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
250
ADVERTISEMENTS
A Range with
a Reputation
^
One quality; many styles
and sizes; with or without legs
"Don't buy
a pig in a poke"
Benjamin Franklin thus warned
is countrymen never to buy any-
thing before they saw it. Seeing
the "safety first" of buying;
the only sure way of getting
exactly what you want and what
ill best fill your needs.
When you see the Maje?tic you will know why it has won whole-
hearted praise everywhere.
The world-wide reputation of the Majestic is based on the prac-
tical, working results of Majestic quality:— perfect baking, long-
est life and most economical service. Body of genume charcoal
iron, withstands rust 3 times longer than steel. Frames, top,
etc. of malleable iron, unbreakable metal that permits the joints
to be cold-rivetted, fo that they stay tight always, hold m the
heat and maintain perfect baking temperature with half as much
fuel as other ranges use. Heavy asbestos boards reflect heat
onto all sides, top and bottom of oven; all surfaces baked per-
fectly without turning. The Majestic has many other important
advantages you should see, such as the famous one-piece, all-
copper, 15-gallon water heater. You'll find it easy to see the
Majestic near you, for there is a Majestic dealer in nearly every
county of 42 states. If you don't know one near you, write us
for his address.
Illustrates and describes every
Majestic feature ask for it.
Free Book
Majestic Manufacturing Co., Dept. 234, St. Louis, Mo.
r-HAY'S-
Pure
Fruit
Juices
COMBINED IN
Hay's Five Fruit Syrup
make a most wholesome drink at all
seasons for all people — old or young.
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready.
Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00
Supplied by good grocfers throughout the East. Write
to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 5c
for mailing liberal sample.
H H HAY SONS
orr7let3
Corn is in season
— ^the most delicious, nourishing corn, too, you
have ever had. Com with all hulls and indi-
gestible soHds removed — Komlet.
This rich, concentrated milk of sweet, green
corn is always seasonable. With it dozens of
appetizing dishes are easily prepared — as won-
derful soup, tasty fritters — patties and muffins.
For full list of suggestions of tasty new dishes
that answer to the daily question, "What differ-
ent is there to eat.?" send for
Free folder of Kornlet recipes
Go to your grocer for Komlet. If he is not sup-
plied, send 25c and we will mail you full-sized can,
prepaid. Address Dept. 2
The Haserot
Canneries Co,
OHIO
Buy^advertised^Goods — Do^^not accept substitutes
251 "
AMERICAN COOKERY
In order to attain tKe Hi^Kest Possible
State of Perfection, in MaKing all CaKes,
and to be Certain of Sviccess every time,
it is only necessary to use a regular set of
The Van Deusen Cake Moulds
and practice tKe Scientific
Metbod furnisbed ^tb same.
This Scientific Method is : To bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let
them stick, and loosen the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be
removed. (Each mould being provided with openings at the sides, which are
covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted, to loosen the cake from
the bottom.) In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking and cooling,
and prevents same from settling, and becoming "soggy.**
These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right, — being so
practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in the past, success will
be assured every time these instructions are followed correctly, and angel, sunshine and other
of the more delicate, delicious and desirable cakes are made easier than the ordinary ones are
by the old methods.
Some may claim that other makes of cake tins are "just as good" as the Van Deusen Cake
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merits, not only for making angel cake, but for all other kinds as well.
The regular set consists of : 1 loaf and 2 layer
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their dealers carry these sets, for they include
only what is absolutely necessary to have, in
order to be certain of success, in making all cakes.
The set sells at the same price that the same articles would bring
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AMERICAN COOKERY
Books on Household Economics
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a
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A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace
Fletcher $1.00
A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers $ .75
Air, Water, and Food. Woodman and
Norton 2.00
American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00
American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef,
veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted
on cloth and rollers 10.00
American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... 1.00
Art and Economy in Home Decora-
tions. Priestman 1.00
Art o£ Entertaining. Madame Mesri 1.00
Art of Home Candy-Making (with
thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50
Art of Right Living. Richards 50
Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the
Home. H. W. Conn 1.00
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. 1.80
Boston Cooking School Cook Book.
Fannie M. Farmer 1.80
Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer .50
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts.
King 1.00
Candies and Bon Bons. Neil 1.00
Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary
Elizabeth Hall 75
Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer .75
Canning, Preserving & Jelly Making.
Hill 1.00
Canning, Preserving and Pickling.
Marion H. Neil 1.00
Care and Feeding of Children. L. E.
Holt, M. D. 75
Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50
Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu
Williams 1.50
Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning
Richards and Elliott 1.00
Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition.
Sherman 1.50
Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00
Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75
Complete Home, The. Clara E.
Laughlin 1.25
Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50
Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00
Cost of Food. Richards $1.00
Cost of Living. Richards l.OO
Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00
Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75
Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good-
fellow 1.50
Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00
Diet in Relation to Age and Activity.
Thompson 1.00
Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50
Domestic Art in Woman's Education.
Cooley 1,25
Domestic Science in Elementary
Schools. Wilson 1.00
Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon.. 2.00
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75
Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M.
Mallock 1.00
Efficiency in Home Making and Aid
to Cooking. Robertson 1.00
Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25
Electric Cooking, Heating and Clean-
ing. Lancaster 1.50
Elements of the Theory and Practice
of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00
Encyclopedia of Foods & Beverages-. 10.00
Equipment for Teaching Domestic
Science. Kinne 80
Etiquette of New York Today.
Learned 1.35
Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50
Euthenics. Richards 1.00
Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00
First Principles of Nursing. Anne R.
Manning 1.00
Food and Cookery for the Sick and
Convalescent. Fannie M, Farmer. . .. 1.60
Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett
M. D 1.50
Food and Feeding. Sir Henry
Thompson 1.35
Food & Flavor. Fmck 2.00
Food and Household Management.
Kinne and Cooley 1.10
Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and
Ushir 1.00
Food & Sanitation. Forester and
Wigley 1.00
Food and the Principles of Dietetics.
Hutchinson 3.50
Food for the Invalid and the Convales-
cent. Gibbs .75
Food in Health and Disease. L B.
Yeo, M. D 2.50
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Food Materials and Their Adultera-
tions. Richards $1.00
Food Values,. Locke 1-25
Franco-American Cookery Book. De-
liee 3 50
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes
for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00
Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00
Handbook cf Home Economics. Flagg .75
Handbook of Hospitality for Town
and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary
A. Boland 2.00
Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price,
M. D 1.50
Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd .60
Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50
Home Economics Movement 75
Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00
Home Furnishings, Practical and Art-
istic. Kellogg 1.60
Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00
Home Problems from a New Stand-
point 100
Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar-
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00
Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00
Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50
House Furnishing and Decoration.
McClure and Eberlein 1.50
House Sanitation. Talbot 80
Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1,50
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30
Household Textiles, Gibbs....^ 1.25
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes.
Neil 1.00
How To Cook for the Sick and Con-
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00
How To Feed Children. Hogan . . . 1.00
How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs.
Rorer 50
Human Foods. Snyder 1.25
Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75
I Go A Marketing. Sowle 1.50
Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.25
International Cook Book. Filippini . . 1.00
Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics.
Rose 1.10
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara-
tion of Meals 2.00
Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary
C. Jones 1.00
Like Mother Used to Make. Herrick 1.25
Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40
A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations.
Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer
Many Ways for Cooking Eggs.
Rorer
My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer
New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer
New Hostess of Today. Larned .
Mrs.
.50
.50
.75
1.60
1.50
New Salads. Mrs. Rorer $.75
Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1.00
Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00
Old Time Recipes for Home Made
Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50
Planning and Furnishing the House.
Quinn •. i.OO
Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50
Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs.
Janet M. Hill 1.80
Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00
Practical Dietetics with Reference to
Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50
Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily
A. M. Stoney 1.75
Practical Sewing and Dressmaking.
Allington 1.50
Principles of Food Preparation. Mary
D. Chambers 1.00
Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances
Lowe Smith . , 1,50
Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00
Salads and Sauces. Murray 50
Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish
Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50
Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50
Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60
School Feeding. Bryant 1.50
School Kitchen Text. Lincoln 60
Selection and Preparation of Food.
Brevier and Meter 75
Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food
Products. Bailey 1.60
Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50
Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.00
Table Service. Allen 1.25
Textiles. Woodman and McGowan.. 2.00
The New Housekeeping. Christine
Frederick 1.00
The Story of Textiles 3.00
The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet
M. Hill 1.50
The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J.
Richardson 1.00
Till the Doctor Comes, and How To
Help Him 1.00
Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi-
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50
Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50
With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade-
laide Keen 1.50
Women and Economics. Charlotte
Perkins Stetson 1.50
Library of Home Economics:
The House
Household Bacteriology
Household Hygiene
Chemistry of the Household
Principles of Cookery
Food and Dietetics
Household Management
Personal Hygiene
Home Care of the Sick
Textiles and Clothing
Study of Child Life
Care of Children
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BY THE PHOCIER 4 GAMBLE
THE present scarcity of dye stuffs and the possible inferiority of those in use
make it more necessary than ever that colored goods be washed with Ivory Soap.
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ADVERTISEMENTS
Out of sight!
— The prices of all foodstuffs. See how the common neces-
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everything. Truly a dreadful condition of affairs. The
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Bread andBread' Making
No baker can give you the variety this book gives.
Just look at this wonderful list. White Wheat
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Made-Over Dishes
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Vegetable Cookery and
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It is good policy at times to omit meat from the
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classifies the vegetables and shows how to get the
most and best out of them. A bewildering array
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Many JVays for
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Mrs. Rorer'^s Philadelphia Cook Book
A wonderful book, full of the brightest things in Cookery; hundreds of choice recipes, absolutely
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AMERICAN COOKERY
Vol. XXI
NOVEMBER, 1916
No. 4
CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER
PAGE
MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DAY ........ 265
IMPORTANT PART FLOWERS PLAY ON THE LUNCH-
EON TABLE — Illustrated Jane Vos 267
PIE AND PATRIOTISM, A TRUE STORY OF A THANKS-
GIVING CELEBRATION Myra C. Ousley 272
YE BEEFSTEAK HOUSE Helen Forrest 275
WHAT DOES YOUR FACE SAY Eleanor Robbins Wilson 278
TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS . . Mary D. Chambers 280
THE HOMECOMING Elias Lieberman 283
STARVING HUMANITY A. W. Herr, M. D. 284
EDITORIALS 286
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with
half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . . Janet M, Hill 289
MENUS, SUGGESTIONS FOR THANKSGIVING
DAY „ „ „ 297
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN
NOVEMBER „ „ „ 298
ART IN COOKERY Margaret L. Sears 299
LOCKERBIE STREET ....... Rose Henderson 801
PRETTY SALAD GARNISHES . . . Nancy D. Dunlea 304
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— New Discoveries— Scents
that Cling — Glass Shelves — Burnt Edges for Place Cards —
Flower Holders — Nasturtium Tea Porch 305
QUERIES AND ANSWERS 310
THE SILVER LINING 322
NEW BOOKS 318
MISCELLANEOUS 326
$1 00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY
Four Years' Subscription, $3.00
Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c.
Entered at BusLon post-office as second-class matter.
Copyright, 1916, by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldff., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose
258
ADVERTISEMENTS
Cottolene
€€
The
Natural
Shortenings^
"Cottolene
makes good
cooking better' '
Doughnuts that are
doubly good
To one pint of risen bread dough, work in one
cup of sugar beaten with two eggs and one tea-
spoon melted Cottolene. Mix a little nutmeg or
cinnamon with one-fourth cup flour; add this and
enough more flour to make a stiff dough. Roll
and cut, and let them rise half an hour before
frying in deep, hot Cottolene.
Doughnuts, when you use Cott6-
lene for shortening, have an appetizing
appearance and a lightness and Ravor
that make them a real delicacy.
It is the same with biscuits, pastry
and all other baking that is done with
Cottolene.
Use this pure food product for aZZ shorten-
ing, as well as frying. It has no equal
Ask your grocer for regular supplies
of Cottolene, in large or small pails,
as you prefer.
f^
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m
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259
AMERICAN COOKERY
I
ECONOMY IN LIVING
How to simplify the art of
living so as to cut the cost
and get one's money's worth,
yet be physically efficient — as
explained by Dr. W. S. Birge,
in his book.
TRUE FOOD VALUES
AND
THEIR LOW COSTS
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INDEX FOR NOVEMBER
PAGE
Art in Cookery 299
Editorials 286
Homecoming The 283
Home Ideas and Economies 305
Important Part Flowers Play on the Lunch-
eon Table 267
Lockerbie Street 301
Menus .265 297 298
New Books 318
Pie and Patriotism — ^A True Story of a
Thanksgiving Celebration 272
Pretty Salad Garnishes 304
Silver Lining, The 322
Starving Humanity 284
Talks to a Normal Class 280
What Does Your Face Say 278
Ye Beefsteak House 275
Seasonable and Tested Recipes:
Boiled Dinner, New England, 111 292
Bon Benches, Cold 289
Cheese Boats, Little 289
Chicken Galantine, Grape Decoration,
111 293
Chicken, Steamed, with Biscuit, 111 292
Clam Bannock, New York Style 291
Corncake 291
Cream, Chocolate Bavarian, 111 296
Fish, Baked in Crust, York Beach Style,
III 290
Mousse or Parfait, Chocolate 296
Pastry, Plain, Flaky 295
Pie, Apple, Flaky Crust, III 295
Pie, Filling for Pumpkin, 111 295
Rolls, Parker House, 111 294
Salad, Celery and White Grape 293
Salad. Fish, in Shells, 111 290
Salad, Tomato-and-Celery-de-luxe, 111. . . 293
Salad, Tuna Fish, III 291
Sauce, Chaudfroid 293
Sausage, Cannelon 292
Soup, Tomato 290
Tarts, Cranberry 296
Queries and Answers :
Apples, Baked, Time for Serving 312
Cake, Spice, at High Altitude 312
Caramels, Recipe for 312
Cheese Balls for Soup 311
Croquettes, Canned Shad 312
Dumplings, Potato 311
Finger Bowls at Luncheon 311
Food, Cost of, per Person 310
Food Exhibits for Schools 312
Meat, What to Serve with 312
Muf!ins, Cheese (high altitude) 312
Omelet, Rum 311
Peppers, Uses for Green 314
Pie a la Mode 311
Potato Souffie ;, 310
Preserve, Citron Melon 310
Salad, Canned Shrimp . . .- 314
Shad, Canned, with Mushrooms . ...... .- '312
Soup, Green Turtle : 314
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260
ADVERTISEMENTS
BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
A NEW BOOK
OF COOKERY
An almost indispensable connpanion volume to Miss
Farmer's "Boston Cooking-Schooi Cook Book." It contains
852 recipes upon all branches not included in her older
book, many of which are not to be found elsewhere.
Over 200 illustraacns. $1.60 net, postpaid.
TABLE SERVICE
By LUCY G. ALLEN
A clear, concise; and yet comprehensive exposition of the
waitress' duties, including not only laying the table and serv-
ing, but tray service, carving, the care of the dining room, etc.
"Help for the troubled hostess." — Chicago News.
"A mine of interesting information for the housekeeper and
homemaker."— il/bM^r'j- Magazine.
Fully illustrated. $i.2j net, postpaid.
LITTLE, BROWN & CO., BOSTON
-SOME OPINIONS-
"The book presents the latest
triumphs of the culinary art, it is
very fully and attractively illus-
trated."— iV. Y. Sun.
"Her new book is attractively
supplied with illustrations — to
look at them makes one hungry —
and the recipes are given with clear
directions." — Christian Register,
Boston.
" The book is very pleasing to the
eye as well as satisfactory on the
practical side." — Pittsburg Post.
For a limited time we can supply
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Order now if you wish to com-
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Address
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
" Headaches — How Prevented ''
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You may get relief by following the teachings of Dr. Riley's book. I
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AMERICAN COOKERY
Books on Household Economics
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a
list of representative worlds on household economics. Any of the books will be sent post-
paid upon receipt of price.
With an order amounting to $6 or more, at list prices, we include a year's subscription
to AMERICAN COOKERY (price $1).
Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for
quotation on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order
to us saves effort and express charges.
A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace
Fletcher $1.00
A Giiide to Laundry Work. Chambers $ .75
Air, Water, and Food. Woodman and
Norton 2.00
American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00
'American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef,
veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted
on cloth and rollers 10.00
American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... 1.00
Art and Economy in Home Decora-
tions. Priestman 1.00
Art of Entertaining. Madame Mesri 1.00
Art of Home Candy-Making (with
thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50
Art of Right Living. Richards 50
Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the
Home. H. W. Conn
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln.
Boston Cooking School Cook Book.
Fannie M. Farmer
Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts.
King
Candies and Bon Bons. Neil
Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary
Elizabeth Hall
Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer
Canning, Preserving & Jelly Making.
Hill
Canning, Preserving and Pickling.
Marion H. Neil
Care and Feeding of Children. L. E.
Holt, M. D.
Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50
Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu
Williams 1.50
Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning
Richards and Elliott 1.00
Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition.
Sherman 1.50
Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00
Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75
Complete Home, The. Clara E.
Laughlin 1.25
Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50
Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00
1.00
1.50
1.80
1.80
.50
.50
.50
1.00
1.00
.75
.75
1.00
1.00
.75
Cost of Food. Richards $1.00
Cost of Living. Richards l.OO
Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00
Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75
Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good-
fellow 1.50
Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00
Diet in Relation to Age and Activity.
Thompson 1.00
Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50
Domestic Art in Woman's Education.
Cooley 1.25
Domestic Science in Elementary
Schools. Wilson 1.00
Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon . . 2.00
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75
Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M.
Mallock 1.00
Efficiency in Home Making and Aid
to Cooking. Robertson 1.00
Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25
Electric Cooking, Heating and Clean-
ing. Lancaster 1.50
Elements of the Theory and Practice
of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00
Encyclopedia of Foods & Beverages. 10.00
Equipment for Teaching Domestic
Science. Kinne 80
Etiquette of New York Today.
Learned 1.35
Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50
Euthenics. Richards 1.00
Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00
First Principles of Nursing. Anne R.
Manning 1.00
Food and Cookery for the Sick and
Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.60
Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett
M. D 1.50
Food and Feeding. Sir Henry
Thompson 1.35
Food & Flavor. Finck 2.00
Food and Household Management.
Kinne and Cooley 1.10
Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and
Ushir 1.00
Food & Sanitation. Forester and
Wigley 1.00
Food and the Principles of Dietetics.
Hutchinson 3.50
Food for the Invalid and the Convales-
cent. Gibbs 75
Food in Health and Disease. I. B.
Yeo, M. D 2.50
Buy advertised Goods
Do not accept substitutes
262
ADVERTISEMENTS
Food Materials and Their Adultera-
tions. Richards SI. 00
Food Values. Locke 1.25
Franco-American Cookery Book. De-
liee 3 50
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes
for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00
Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00
Handbook of Home Economics. Flagg .75
Handbook of Hospitality for Town
and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary
A. Boland 2.00
Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price,
M. D 1.50
Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd .60
Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50
Home Economics Movement 75
Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00
Home Furnishings, Practical and Art-
istic. Kellogg 1.60
Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00
Home Problems from a New Stand-
point 1.00
Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar-
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00
Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00
Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50
House Furnishing and Decoration.
McClure and Eberlein 1.50
House Sanitation. Talbot 80
Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30
Household Textiles. Gibbs.... 1.25
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes.
Neil 1.00
How To Cook for the Sick and Con-
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00
How To Feed Children. Hogan . . . 1.00
How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs.
Rorer 50
Human Foods. Snyder 1.25
Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75
I Go A Marketing. Sowie 1.50
Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.25
International Cook Book. Filippini . . 1.00
Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics.
Rose 1.10
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara-
tion of Meals 2.00
Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary
C. Jones 1.00
Like Mother Used to Make. Herrick 1.25
Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40
A cook's picture book; 200 Illustrations.
Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50
Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs.
Rorer 50
My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer ... .75
New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer . 1.60
New Hostess of Today. Earned 1.50
New Salads. Mrs. Rorer $ .75
Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1.00
Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00
Old Time Recipes for Home Made
Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50
Planning and Furnishing the House.
Quinn 1.00
Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.
Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50
Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs.
Janet M. Hill 1.80
Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00
Practical Dietetics with Reference to
Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50
Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily
A. M. Stoney 1.75
Practical Sewing and Dressmaking.
Allington 1.50
Principles of Food Preparation. Mary
D. Chambers 1.00
Principles cf Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances
Lowe Smith 1.50
Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00
Salads and Sauces. Murray 50
Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish
Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50
Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50
Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60
School Feeding. Bryant 1.50
School Kitchen Text. Lincoln 60
Selection and Preparation of Food.
Brevier and Meter 75
Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food
Products. Bailey 1.60
Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50
Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.00
Table Service. Allen 1.25
Textiles. Woodman and McGowan. . 2.00
The New Housekeeping. Christine
Frederick 1.00
The Story of Textiles 3.00
The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet
M. Hill 1.50
The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J.
Richardson 1.00
Till the Doctor Comes, and How To
Help Him 1.00
Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi-
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50
Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50
With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade-
laide Keen 1.50
Women and Economics. . Charlotte
Perkins Stetson 1.50
Library of Home Economics:
The House
Household Bacteriology
Household Hygiene
Chemistry of the Household
Principles of Cookery
Food and Dietetics
Household Management
Personal Hygiene
Home Care of the Sick '
Textiles and Clothing
Study of Child Life
Care of Children
May be purchased as a set or singly at $1.50 a volume
Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.
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263
AMERICAN COOKERY
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Practical and Useful Cookery Books
Bp MRS. JANET M. HILL, Editor of American Cookery
The American Cook Book
$1.00
This book is for everyday use. For the most part the recipes are simple and concise, and
just such as will be of assistance in preparing the regular family meals, but scattered through
the book are a few recipes for choice dishes that will grace any feast. Each recipe has been
tried and tried again, and is absolutely right. The directions are complete and easily fol-
lowed. Using this book you are sure of success every time.
Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making 1.00
Modem methods of canning and jelly making ha e simplified and shortened preserving pro-
cesses. In this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented.
Practical Cooking and Serving -
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The recipes in this book have been tested by years of use at the author's home table, and by
her pupils North and South, East and West. The composition of food is given at the head
of chapters in which the several foods are specifically described. It holds recipes for both
inexpensive and elaborate dishes. It is fully and finely illustrated.
Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing Dish Dainties 1.50
A new and revised edition of this popular work
Cooking For Two - - - - 1.50
Just the book for a small family
The Up-To-Date Waitress - - - 1.50
A guide to ideal service
The Book of Entrees - - - 1.50
Over 800 recipes, opening a new field of cookery and furnishing a solution of the problem
of *' left overs."
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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
264
Menus for Thanksgiving Day
I.
TYPICAL THANKSGIVING DINNER
Bluepoints
Brownbread Sandwiches
Olives Celery
Roast Turkey, Bread Dressing
Giblet Sauce
Cranberry Sauce
Mashed Potatoes, Buttered Onions
Squash
Chicken Pie
Sweet Pickled Peaches
Pumpkin Pie Apple Pie
Cheese
Raisins Assorted Nuts
Coffee
Fresh and Dried Fruit
II.
THANKSGIVING DINNER WITH NOVELTIES
Crabflake Cocktail
Consomme, with Chicken Quennelles
Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing
Giblet Sauce
Baked Onions Stuffed with Nuts
Squash au Gratin
Potato Croquettes
Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce .
Cranberry Frappe
Cannelons with Sausage
Pumpkin Pie Marlboro Tart
Cheese Boats
Coffee
Raisins Maple Bonbons Assorted Nuts
Fresh Fruit
HIGH TEA, THANKSGIVING EVENING
I.
Scalloped Oysters
Jellied Philadelphia Relish
Parker House Rolls
Cold Roast Chicken with Stuffing
Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style
Cranberry Sauce
Frozen Apricots
Lady Fingers
Coffee
II.
Cream of Oyster Soup, Oysterettes
Olives Celery
Chicken-and-Celery Salad
Parker House Rolls
Charlotte Russe
Coffee
A
merican
Cook
ery
VOL. XXI
NOVEMBER
No. 4
Important Part Flowers Play on the Luncheon Table
By Jane Vos
FROM the moment the Japanese
girl is old enough to toddle alone
she is taught a trio of accomplish-
ments, — not the prosaic three R's of
the Occident, but the triple graces every
Oriental maiden is supposed to possess:
how to tie her sash; how to brew a cup
of tea, and last, but by no means least,
how to arrange flowers. For the tying
of her foiur-and-one-half yard sash is an
exact science, if you please; the making
of tea that resembles ambrosia an
inheritance, — an ancestral gift from a
long line of tea-loving ancestors; while
the artistic arrangement of flowers is an
art that must be acquired and followed
as religiously as the saying of prayers to
the Great Lord Buddha.
Were this an article about the three
graces of the Japanese women, I would
tell you a story of how I have watched
them practising the art of tying their
obis (sashes) of some of the occasions
when I participated in their tea cere-
monies, and how I, too, have wandered
in their gardens, clad like them in quaint,
gay-tinted garments, plucking flowers
that were afterwards arranged in the
most approved fashion for the tokonoma
or other wall niche.
In the days of our Great Grand-
mothers and Aunt Mehitables, they
used to mass the offerings of Flora in
hard, compact little bunches, regardless
of variety, color or sentiment. But our
sixth sense finally rebelled, and we began
to arrange flowers more consistently^
following the Japanese practise of Hght-
ness, airiness and grace. Nowadays,
we, too, have our schools where tea-
brewing and kindred arts are taught,
and where the setting of tables, and the
the:.poppy luncheon table
267
268
AMERICAN COOKERY
arrangement of flowers for the luncheon
or dinner service, is part of the cur-
riculum.
Down at Southampton, Long Island,
there is such a school which is attended
almost exclusively by the society women
of New York. They make it their busi-
ness during the summer months when
at their country places to enroll as pupils
at this unique school. At the end of the
season they have a grand floral fete,
offering prizes for the handsomest tables.
The pictures shown are good illus-
trations of the work done by these apt
pupils. The poppy luncheon table, for
instance, offers splendid possibilities for
the massing of a single color, or two or
three shades. Scarlet and white, or
pink and white blooms blend wonderfully
above snowy napery, and deep purple
blossoms are especially attractive. The
table shown is covered with one of the
new luncheon cloths, having a white
background and a sprinkling of yellow
tulip poppies on the cloth proper, and
with a deep border of their green leaves.
These same "Hunneannias," or Giant
Yellow poppies are used for decoration.
White linen shades with yellow embroi-
dery gives the final touch of Oriental
splendor. Large clusters of purple
grapes massed at one end with their
leaves and tendrils, and richly colored
peaches mounted in a doily of leaves on
a receptacle at the other end, harmonize
exquisitely with the vivid coloring of
the poppies, softening their effect.
An attractive table, beautiful in its
simplicity is spread with crocheted
doilies, the large oblong held in place
in the center by six white china can-
delabra, — one at each corner, and one
on either side of the center. Pure white
china dishes to match the candelabra,
carry out the dazzling white effect.
Individual white china flower holders at
each plate, with a center vase to match,
hold zinnias, their strong coloring
relieving the otherwise dead white crea-
tion.
Blue Delphiniums and blue Aquelegia
form the decoration of the next table.
Nothing could be simpler than the
luncheon set pictured. The center doily,
to be sure, has a design that appears to
be intricate, but it is simple nevertheless,
and any woman handy with crochet or
knitting needles can easily acquire its
counterpart, by utilizing odd moments
of her time. Number 10 Dexter cotton
works up rapidly. The plate doilies
are as easy to make as crocheted wash
cloths, as the center is merely a double
crochet stitch with a double crochet
^
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FIRST PRIZE LUNCHEON TABLE
FLOWERS ON THE LUNCHEON TABLE
269
A PEASANT TABLE, SIMPLE TO COPY
border. The napkins, too, have a double
crochet border. Any needlework maga-
zine gives instructions for the making of
these luncheon sets, which are so explicit
that they are easy to follow.
Even drawn scrim-cloth makes a
simple, inexpensive luncheon set. One
width of the wide material will suffice, or
if two widths are preferred they may be
joined with a double crochet stitch
which resembles an insertion.
The * 'Peasant Table" is always in
favor for luncheons, especially informal
affairs. The one pictured has a long
runner of white linen decorated with a
crochet insertion and finished with a
crochet edge. A brass receptacle in
the center contains a flower holder in
which tall spikes of zinnias appear to be
growing in a natural clump. Four plain
brass candlesticks frame the floral
centerpiece. A brass bowl at each end
flanks the candlestick, and it contains a
floating pool of zinnia leaves and blos-
soms. Individual blue and white flower
holders to match the blue and white
dishes, contain zinnias also. Crochet
doilies are used at the plates instead of
linen, to relieve the plainness of the
runner. A variation of this table may
have a center decoration of Nicotiana
(tobacco plant) blossoms, thus carrying
out the peasant idea.
A Japanese table, exquisitely dainty
and unpretentious, is that decorated with
day lilies. It is laid with a snowy
crash runner, and has crash plate doilies.
The shallow white center flower bowl
contains four claw feet holders, and from
these tall spikes of the white lilies rear
their fragile heads above their own
bloom. Note the arrangement at the
base, and observe how the lily leaves
are clustered to form pads, thus accen-
tuating the green and white effect against
the snowy background.
A white marble statue of Buddha at
each end of the center receptacle under
the shelter of a tall lily bloom, reminds
one of Sir Edwin Arnold's lines to the
Great Lord Buddha:
"The dew is on the lotus.
Rise great Sun!"
Blue and white Canton dishes add the
flnal note of color to this dainty luncheon
table. A variation that will appeal to
the lover of Fleur-de-lis is the iris deco-
ration, the erect spikes of purple bloom
rising amidst the green foliage in mar-
vellously natural plants. It takes the
writer back in memory to Japan in Iris
time, when for many square miles one
sees nothing but flelds of purple fleur-de-
lis against the vivid emerald landscape.
In striking contrast to the foregoing
is the rather formal Italian table, impres-
270
AMERICAN COOKERY
sively beautiful in its dignified arrange-
ment. The enclosed garden effect if of
white marble would cost a small fortune.
White pine was, therefore substituted
with good result, painting and enamelling
until the enclosure had every appearance
of marble. The tiny fountain in the
center is of white china, and on the edges
snowy china carrier pigeons disport
themselves in plastico as if ready for
flight. Blue ageratum is massed against
the railing, and around the fountain in
natural effect. Four Dresden candel-
abra with crocheted shades to match the
luncheon set, flank each corner of the
garden. Note the initials of the hostess
crocheted in the lace design, under her
crocheted coat-of-arms.
A prize luncheon table of this year's
vintage reminds one of an exquisite
garden in which butterflies are flitting
hither and thither. The cloth has a
snowy center with a border of Brazilian
butterflies in iridescent colorings. The
center flower arrangement is one of the
handsomest shown. Orange-red spotted
with black ''Tigrinum" (single tiger-
lilies) and *'Salpiglossis" (painted tongue)
are massed naturally at one side of the
shallow glass receptacle, while dainty,
modest pansy blooms on their own
transplanted roots and stems, smile
upward at their more stately sisters
from the other side of the bowl.
Slen dor-stemmed glass vases, tall and
I
dignified, hold a single "Aquilegia"
(columbine). Gay-colored Majolica
plates are in harmony with the vivid
blossoms, their wonderful shades giving
rainbow glints to the table.
For a more formal luncheon there is a
table spread with a Cathedral lace cloth.
The two tall center candelabra are of
carved wood, and in and out of these a
wild clematis vine twines and inter-
twines, finding its way across the center-
piece of roses and pansies, and base of
purple damsom plums to the individual
flower holders containing roses and
pansies also.
The woman who feels that these
decorations are beyond her means, owing
to her old china and napery, need not
despair. There is a great art in knowing
how to make use of materials at hand.
More than one china closet has lovely
odd pieces of Wedge wood. Majolica
and Canton plaques hidden away, for
fear of wear and tear. Surely these
may see the light of day, on occasions,
at least, and they will be just the thing
for center table decorations. I am sure
that Great Aunt Betsey or Grand-
mother will feel complimented if you
will bring out their heirlooms occasion-
ally and put them to practical use.
A few yards of inexpensive material,
scrim or otherwise; or a spool or two of
Dexter cotton will evolve into a hand-
some luncheon set under your nimble
ITALIAN TABLE, HOME MADE
AUTUMN DAYS
271
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i^Mft- III
JAPANESE TABLE, DECORATION OF DAY LILIES
fingers, and what you lack in china you
can make up with your floral decorations.
It is simply a case of knowing how, and
then applying the knowledge instead of
hoarding it along with the heirlooms of
Great Aunt Betsey.
Autumn Days
Summer days are pleasure days
Everybody knows,
Summer days are treasure days,
Bloom of pink and rose.
Summer days were golden days,
Every grac e possessed ;
But the dream embolden days —
Autumn days are best.
Winter days are thrilling days,
Everyone has said.
Snow and tempest filling ways
Where our feet must tread.
Winter days are blessing days,
Follow we its quest:
But^the dear caressing days.
Autumn days are best.
L. M. Thorntoyi.
CENTERPIECE OF FRUITS
Pie and Patriotism
A True Story of a Thanksgiving Celebration
By Myra C. Ousley
BY the Constitution of the United
States every American is entitled
to the pursuit of happiness.
Perhaps few of us reaHze to what extent
an American's achievement of happiness
depends upon rocking-chairs and Ivory
soap and pie, until we have been trans-
planted to a soil where these things do
not grow. My awakening to the fact
came during my residence in Berlin, in
the good old days of peace in Europe.
Well do I remember my great joy upon
hearing of a benevolent merchant on
Leipsiger Strasse who kindly dispensed
Ivory soap to American ladies for the
stim of twenty-five cents per cake.
But no such happy solution to the lack
of pie or rocking-chairs ever presented
itself. One may in time become accus-
tomed to a life devoid of rocking-chairs,
but pie — well that is quite a different
matter.
It was after four months of pieless
existence that three of us women from
Uncle Sam's United States made a
patriotic vow that we would celebrate
Thanksgiving Day with a real American
Thanksgiving dinner. We had been
accustomed since childhood to offering
up our thanks on this day to the accom-
paniment of roast turkey and pumpkin
pie. And, though these auxiliaries are
not prescribed in the Book of Common
Prayer, they seemed to us none the less
essential to a true Thanksgiving atmos-
phere. The planning of our menu was,
therefore, a very simple and unanimous
affair. It was moved, seconded, and
carried that we must have turkey and
ptimpkin pie, the remaining constituents
of the feast being a matter of com-
parative indifference.
While our good husbands, closeted in
the laboratories of Geheimrath Professors y
were busy inspecting microbial land-
scapes, we, who were called Frau Doktor,
sallied forth to beard the ober- Kellner
in his den and endeavor to convince him
that, upon some occasions, turkey is
superior to goose, and pumpkin pie more
excellent than bread and cheese.
Now the ober-Kellner, or head waiter,
in a German hotel is a personage of
much consequence and dignity, and is
frequently possessed of a firmness of
character not inferior to that of the
immortal Miu-dstone. In one large
hotel, which catered especially to patrons
from "Dollar Land/' our combined
powers of persuasion failed utterly to
272
PIE AND PATRIOTISM
273
move the stony-hearted ober. He
haughtily informed us that never in the
history of the hotel had turkey been
served; and positively refused to be a
party to so serious a departure from the
traditions of his hostelry! This was
truly a cruel blow both to turkey and to
patriotism.
At the restaurant where the largest
amount of goose, sausage, and beer were
daily converted into human tissue, we
met with little better success. While
turkey was not considered wholly beyond
the pale, pie was not to be thought of,
since no one connected with the estab-
lishment had ever seen or heard of one.
Two or three calls at other hotels
and cafes served to convince us that the
proverbial looking for a needle in a
hay-stack would be more productive of
results than hunting for pie in Berlin.
In fact our coveted pie seemed fast
deteriorating into a mere visionary and'
inedible thing.
At last, with our hopes in our boots,
we made bold to seek a private interview
.with an ober-Kellner of the Rheingold.
At that time the Rheingold was the
most beautiful restaurant in all Berlin.
Besides the magnificent Kaiser Saal
where one paid for wine and partook of
music free, there were a number of
smaller rooms, so delightfully artistic
that even the slenderest meal seemed
transformed into a feast. But most
wonderful of all the varied marvels of
the Rheingold was an ober-Kellner who
had actually seen a pie\ At one period
of his career he had spent three years
in New York City; and, mingled with
the memories of that metropolis, was a
dim recollection of pies. "A pie is
round," he said, "and has two crusts —
a top crust and a bottom crust." Now
this seemed to us a most satisfactory
definition of, at least, the outward and
visible form of a pie. And, when he
optimistically declared his ability to
explain the intricacies of a pie's anatomy
to the chef, we were overjoyed. In fact
our happiness was not perceptibly dimin-
ished by the necessity of substituting
apple pie for the pumpkin pie of our
dreams. As the Rheingold harbored
no antipathy toward the serving of our
national bird, the remainder of the
dinner was soon agreed upon, and we
returned home to report the triumph of
American dietary ideals.
The evening of the feast arrived on
scheduled time. And, after laborious
excavations of the depths of our several
trunks, we emerged, resplendent in long
neglected finery, and blissfully wended
our pie ward way.
We dined in the splendid Kaiser Saal.
Ravishing music strove for our attention
against fearful odds; for the dinner was
wonderful! To be sure we were a trifle
disappointed that the turkey was already
carved — a somewhat superfluous pro-
ceeding, since our party boasted no
fewer than three perfectly good surgeons !
However, the untimely mutilation of
the bird was soon forgotten in the gastric
thrills which attended the eating of it.
Being aware of the importance
attached by us to having turkey on our
bill of fare, the kind ober, in his great
desire to please us, had ordered our butter
served in individual turkey moulds.
This bit of thoughtfulness quite touched
our hearts.
Besides turkey our dinner included all
of the trimmings essential to a perfectly
correct Thanksgiving feast. There were
delicious German cranberries, called
Preisselheere, the taste of which can
best be described as combining the
flavor of currants with that of our cran-
berries. I cannot even think of these
without smashing the tenth command-
ment. And, during my stay in Berlin,
their only rival in my affections was the
Beethoven String Quartette. Why does
not some botanically inclined gentleman
introduce the Preisselheere into these
United States and make our country a
better place to live in ?
At last, the long dreamed of, long
longed for moment arrived when the
pie was ushered into our midst with
274
AMERICAN COOKERY
proper ceremony. Sad to relate, there
was not the awed silence befitting so
momentous an occasion, but, instead, a
hearty peal of laughter! The ober's
seemingly perspicuous definition of an
apple pie had evidently lost its way
somewhere in the multiple convolutions
of the culinary brain of the chef, and the
result was — an entirely original cre-
ation, indisputably unique in the annals
of cookery! To be sure it was round,
as the ober had said, and had two crusts
— one adorning the bottom and the
other the top — and the filling was
composed mainly of cooked apples.
But when we looked at it, and again
when we tasted it, we realized as never
before the utter incapacity of language
— even the English language to describe
a real American apple pie.
This concoction was perhaps sixteen
inches in diameter, and not less than
four inches deep. The apples, by
some culinary process, had been rendered
totally devoid of any juice whatsoever;
and a mixture of raisins, nuts, and a
few other things, had been added as a
finishing touch to the disguise. It was,
I must admit, superlatively palatable.
No manner of fault could be found with
it, except that it could never pass muster
among Americans as an apple pie. And
yet, strange to say, we were not, I think,
greatly disappointed; for, by that time,
we had each of us reached a stage of
gratification more propitious to the
enjoyment of a joke than a pie.
But, alas, the feelings of our poor ober
were greatly damaged by the hilarity
which greeted the pie that was to have
been like the pies that bloom in New
York. After we arose from the table he
assured us ladies in all seriousness that
he had faithfully tried to initiate the
cook into the mysteries of American pie,
but, for some reason, the latter "didn't
understand." We felt very sorry for
the internal injury we had unwittingly
caused our good friend the ober, and
immediately set about to administer
first aid. Not having any Red Cross
bandages at hand, we tried the healing
effect of coins applied to the palm of
the hand, and, in addition, poured
soothing words into his ear. But I
never felt quite sure that our remedies
were efficacious.
In spite of its pieless aspect, our
Thanksgiving celebration was hailed a
complete and unqualified success. And,
considering the colossal difficulties in
the path of its achievement, and the
courage and endurance displayed in
overcoming them, it undoubtedly
deserves to go down in history as an
act of heroic patriotism.
Drifting
The more common secret of want of
success in life is a tendency to let
things drift. It is not so much the
missing one opportunity, or the com-
mitting one blunder, as the lavish
waste of all the forces — opportunities
which in various shapes come within
the grasp. It is the slovenliness of men
and women which for the most part
makes their lives so unsatisfactory.
They do not sit at the loom with keen
eye and deft fingers; but they work
listlessly, and without a sedulous care
to piece together as they best may the
broken threads. We are apt to give up
work too soon, to suppose that a single
breakage has ruined the cloth. The
men who get on in the world are not
daunted by one nor a thousand break-
ages. — John M or ley.
Ye Beefsteak House
By Helen Forrest
NOBODY wants my book, nobody
wants anything I write !" Jim
Nelson's brown eyes were quite
black with wrath and wounded feeling
as he hurled the disheartening words
at his fiancee by way of greeting.
The girl stopped short in her progress
across the wainscoted parlor where he
was waiting for her, and her grey eyes
grew pathetic and the soft color faded
from her cheeks. She smiled bravely
on him and took from his hands the -
often rejected manuscript, as if its
presence were accountable for the cloud
over them, and pushed him gently into
his favorite chair.
It was to have been their way out, this
despised book, the sign manual of Jim's
ability as an author, its success his proof
that his pen could support his wife to be,
his sweet Betty, an orphan, who w^as
tolerated in her aunt's home.
"You haven't half tried to place your
book, you impatient boy!" she declared
reassuringly, "you know David Harum
was rejected by at least twenty-five
publishers before it was finally taken and
made its whirlwind success."
"I'll break that record," he declared
grimly, "only my book won't be taken
in the end, Betty;" he rose to his feet.
"I've held you for five years to a promise
I had no right to ask of you until I was
able to take care of you! While I have
the courage," here his voice broke, "I
offer you your freedom."
"And I won't take it, "her voice was
more decided than his, "I'll wait for you
until you are ready for me, but let me
borrow some of the courage you spoke
of just now and tell you a plan I haven't
dared speak of to you. Drop all idea
of literary work for the present," she
hurried on, in spite of his reproachful
look, "and give a few years just to earn-
ing money. Let us both work together.
and later in life, when we have something
to live on, you can write your books."
"Betty," he pulled her down to the
arm of his chair and spoke with obvious
patience, "please remember that I am
twenty-eight years old, that all my
training, college and otherwise, has been
toward a literary life. How can I earn
money except by my pen, sorry hope
that it is ? As for you, dear child, what
in the world could you do!"
"Speak for 3^oiu:self, John," she quoted
gaily, "and tell me what you know how
to do."
Her betrothed reached to the table
behind her, seized the unlucky manu-
script and flung it with steady aim into
^ distant waste basket. "Beside my
well-known literary ability I have a
crowning gift made perfect through
much camping and life in bachelor
quarters — one gift and one only, so far
as I can think. Beyond the dreams of
avarice or appetite, I can broil a beef-
steak."
"And on that broiled beefsteak," she
declared with rising solemnity, "we
build owe home. It is our way out."
"I didn't suppose there was a laugh
left in me today," began John Nelson,
but the girl broke in —
"You mustn't laugh, your work is
hard but so is my waiting, and I think I
see a way in which we both can earn,
have a home while we are earning and
get some money ahead for our country
home and your days for writing. Way
down town where the big offices are
let us have a place for lunches. Your
beefsteak idea reminded me of what I've
often heard Uncle say, that a decent
beefsteak is what most men want for
lunch and is just what they. can't get,
unless they travel uptown for it. That's
where you come in, broiling that steak.
The one thing I know how to do is to
275
276
AMERICAN COOKERY
cook, so my share shall be home-made
things like bread and cake."
*'So be it," said the man of books,
"I follow on."
After that day of decision events fol-
lowed rapidly. There was a quiet
wedding in the chantry of a big church
where Betty was given away by a highly
unbelieving uncle who furnished for
them a little flat up town ; then the lease
of three rooms in the heart of the busi-
ness district, among the tall buildings,
was put through. Outside these rooms
a new sign challenged the attention of
the passer-by: "Ye Beefsteak House."
Within, six sturdy little tables with
grass mats, fresh unchipped china and
steel-bladed knives, added to the cus-
tomary silver, met the intending cus-
tomer. A college boy from the near-by
University was at first the only waiter.
At half past nine each morning, Jim and
Betty entered their place of business,
having previously done their marketing,
choosing most critically the promising
cuts of meat. Their smart street cloth-
ing was then exchanged for the linen of
labor, and work hummed merrily in
preparation for luncheon, which was
served from eleven to three. No vain
boast was Jim's as to his prowess as a
broiler of beefsteak, cooked to order
over a charcoal fire, fresh from the
gridiron, brown, hot and juicy and
done to a turn, the work of his hands
became known throughout the business
sections of the old city. The six tables
were soon increased to twelve, a second
dining-room was claimed from the
ancient building in which they had
located, a dwelling house left of a
century before. Aunt Sally, an old
colored servant, once employed by
Betty's mother, was annexed as potato
cook, "French fried," hash-browned,
creamed or baked, and a general clearing
up at the end of the day was also her
share in the work.
"Broiled meat and broiled meat only,
hang it all Betty, 1 can't broil and fry,
roast and fricasee in answer to the
popular request even if the dollars are
piling up," and the chef turned a glowing
face from his charcoal fire to the white
linen pastry cook.
"We'll stick to broiled things, they're
more correct," Betty responded cheer-
fully; "beefsteak, lamb chops, chicken,
ham and kidneys, that's what they all
seem to want. Thank goodness I've
learned to make wonderful pie; I never
realized New York was in the great pie-
belt until I was called upon to meet the
universal demand."
Betty had emerged triumphantly from
a course in pie-making, joining an
evening Domestic Science Class, and pies
of various sorts, fresh baked each morn-
ing, were added to her regular bread,
rolls and cake.
Their customers were chiefly men,
many regulars developed among them,
but now and then a wife or a sweetheart
fluttered into the place, "you are always
talking about", departing wondering
whether that fascinating flavor of meat
was due to Worcestershire or to some
unknown condiment. They were ready,
too, to substantiate the masculine belief
that all the bread and pastry really was
home-made.
At the end of the first year of business
the entire first fioor of the old house was
called into service, monogrammed china
was on the tables, a wood brown color
scheme, reflected from walls and hang-
ings, rested the eye. A cashier became
necessary and the original college boy
waiter supervised the added force of
students who, coming in relays, were
glad to earn their dinner as the price of
serving others. Most eloquent of all,
a gratifying bank account spoke of suc-
cess. Seated at their seven o'clock
dinner in an up town flat, where a com-
petent maid prepared and served their
meals, the business partners looked
their venture and their future in the
face.
"Five years of it, Jim," Betty spoke
wistfully, "could you spare it from your
books? For then we could buy that
YE BEEFSTEAK HOUSE
277
little place in the country and," loyally,
"live on your writing."
Her husband shook his head scep-
tically, "Let go this solid fact for vague
hopes? Honestly, Betty, I trust my
proven hands more than my hoped-in
brain. If you can stand it, I say five
years or ten, more if necessary." He
broke off laughingly, "Do you know
what has been the hit of this week at
the house, shaking even the throne of
my beefsteak? Why Aunt Sally's hash,
wherein the odds and ends of all the
broils mingle happily and economically
with the humble potato."
"I know it," Betty laughed merrily,
"and don't forget that the corn bread I
served with it yesterday made such a
hit that I shall bake three times the
quantity today. The cooking must
stay in three pairs of hands — yours,
Aunt Sally's and mine. Now we live on
a safe basis, our time is our own from
four in the afternoon until our eight
thirty marketing the next morning; let
us be content."
One Autumn morning of their second
year of "frenzied finance", as Jim
termed "their joint business career, the
master broiler stopped abruptly in his
exit from the Washington Market,
thereby endangering the basket of a
daughter of Erin who was behind him.
He lifted his hat apologetically in answer
to her indignant, "An' will ye mind yer
step!"
Jim breathed deeply the fish-laden
air and turned to his puzzled wife.
"Do you know I'm going to put that
old fellow of ours in a skit, just a short
story?" he pointed to a distant stall
they often patronized "You know
what he talks to us; well the local color
and all is rather inspiring. Just on the
side," he said jestingly, "my beefsteak
shan't suffer."
"Oh, Jim," pleaded his wife almost
pathetically, "go on with your idea;
Aunt Sally and I will manage today.
Do you go home and write, that is
your life work, this venture of ours is
only a side issue."
But he put her smilingly aside,
"Remember the five years of famine
while I wrote, and the tv/o years of home
and plenty while we've broiled. No,
Betty, safety first and writing later."
"What do you think!" he said, as he
joined her at dinner time a few weeks
later, fresh from the office of a powerful
editor. "Betty, he said, 'Now you're
talking, this down-town stuff of yours
is alive, a new vein and we'll take all
you can give us of it'."
She clung to him with tears of happi-
ness, "And we'll pension old John and
take him out of the market, he will be
the comer stone of our fortune."
On the third anniversary of its begin-
ning, "Ye Beefsteak House" changed
chefs, Jim reluctantly agreeing to the
obvious fact that he could not broil by
day and write by night and do justice
to either occupation.
Priding himself on his marketing
abilities and wisely imbibing the air of
his latest setting for his stories, he con-
tinued to select the meat. Six months
later Betty handed over the pastry
table to Aunt Sally's carefully trained
niece, for Betty must be at home to
make ready for the coming of little Jim.
Aunt Sally alone stood firm and prepared
her delicious potatoes, "French fried"
hash-browned, creamed or baked.
"Some day we'll sell out with a big
bonus for good will, as the phrase goes!"
said Jim, "and cease even this remote
supervision, but my muse is young and
as yet I am slow to deprive her of the
solid benefits of broiled beefsteak."
What Does Your Face Say ?
By Eleanor Robbins Wilson
CALMLY and dispassionately did
you ever take an old photograph
of yourself, portraying the mo-
bility or sunniness of youth, and lay it
side by side with your likeness of today
to see what the years have written there ?
Without failure you will find the deeply
graven answer. It may make you feel
self-congratulatory or it may cause you
to flash an analytical X-ray on your
character to find the causes back of such
depreciatory evidence.
Facial expression always registers two
things. It tells what an individual has
done with his heritage and also v/hat life
has done to him. It not only shows the
altars of our desires but what we have
laid on them.
This last summer I sat on the upper
deck of one of the steamers of the
Eastern Steamship Company and inter-
ested myself with reading the facial
bulletins of surrounding passengers.
Here I found written ambition, listless-
ness, faultfinding, serenity, health, dissi-
pation, suUenness, and then, like a ray
of sunshine, my attention was focused
by a woman whose whole countenance
spelled pleasantness. It was not the
untried gayety of youth, for she was past
the meridian of life. Certain lines in the
face and the silver hair were eloquent of
lessons, but the light of enjoyment still
danced in the fine dark eyes, and around
the mouth still played the bewitching
evidences of humor. Simultaneously,
those lines of John Kendrick Bangs'
entitled "The Winner," came to mind.
"I'm but the Guest of Life,
Who wins the best of Life,
By joying in the quest of Life."
How many of us, I reflected, are
really joying as we go along? Alto-
gether too many of us suffer with the
delusion that the land of joying lies
somewhere in the luring future. We
say we shall arrive when the purse grows
fatter; perchance, after travel in many
lands,, or when the more palatial home
looms in sight. But too late we discover
that the beckoning enchantment was
merely a mental mirage and the joy of
living lies far off from such material
attainments.
It is only the wealth of the heart that
counts, after all. And only one's atti-
tude towards life that makes or bank-
rupts the riches of it.
The person who harbors love, a desire
at all times to be helpful and, day in
and day out, holds magnanimous thought
towards others, is laying up the true and
lasting treasures. Such gold of good
intent circulates through a person's
whole being, and literally shows its face
value. It illumines the countenance as
nothing else can, and those of us who
occasionally bask in the warmth of such
kindliness, believe unqualifiedly that
"a smile is indeed the coat of arms of
the Soul." And who are the wealthy-
hearted, the towering Carnegies in this
respect? We had one such in New
England's metropolis in the person of
little Louis Gold, a crippled newsie and
plucky little optimist, who always man-
aged to hobble on the sunny side of life.
Handicapped from birth by the heaviest
odds of fortune, he was always a worker,
a helper, a booster of lightheartedness,
and the possessor of what was called
"the sweetest smile in Boston."
That was why early in Maytime, when
he was borne to rest, that a cortege of
over 1,500 people wound its tortuous
course through the streets of Boston,
why the flags on all the buildings of
Newspaper Row were at half mast, and
why representatives from every news-
paper in the city were found to be among
those numbered at the memorial sei;vice.
His face was truly an index to all of the
278
WHAT DOES YOUR FACE SAY
279
several phases of his sterling character.
What does your face say? Is it a
stronger, nobler, sweeter, more chari-
table, kinder face than you carried ten
years ago ? Or is it colder, sterner, more
cruel or weaker? If so, your thoughts
require Burbanking. You have urgent
need of one grand weedingfest in your
own mind to toss out some of the objec-
tionable growths and to graft what is
worth preserving with that which is
more promising.
If women would only learn that beauty
is as deep as human nature, they would
soon cease a lot of nonsensical experi-
menting with lotions and powders.
There is no cosmetic to eradicate the
lines of a peevish temperament, the
chronic frownings of nagging and fault-
finding. The remedy lies in B urbanking
the disposition, and it can be done.
We are not only ''architects of fate,"
but of our faces also.
Beauty is mental and moral as well as
~ physical and its call for sustenance is
necessarily a three-fold demand. Thus,
the quality of thought, which the mind
feeds upon is of paramount importance.
Sooner or later it publishes telltale
tidings.
Kind thoughts, cheerfulness, and the
smiling habit are an unsurpassable trio
of beauty-builders. I might have said
body-builders for they make as distinctly
for health as for personal attractiveness.
Of all the unrecorded benefactors of
humanity, to my mind, the chiefest is
the man who first laughed. Somewhere
back in the shadowy jungle of the Past
rang this rollicking peal of laughter that
sowed merriment in the world's garden
of emiotions. What was the joke all
about, I wonder? Perhaps his lordship
was trying the prankish stunt of walking
on his hind legs, or pelting his spouse
with cocoanuts. But he laughed the
first blessed "ha! ha!" of all humanity.
And in so doing happified posterity till
man is now known as "the laughing
animal."
But how many there are who seem to
have forgotten their prerogative! How
many vinegar- visaged people one chances
to see in the course of a day — the
mournful Esaus that have evidently
yielded up their birthright of joyou^ness
for a mess of grouches!
What does you face say? Have the
Dismalites or the Cheerites taken your
number ? Are you daily despatching the
interests of business and social asso-
ciates with a smile, or are you just
flagging a lot of worthwhile energy with
a grouch signal?
What does your face say? Does it
fortify with the tonic qualities of an
advancing spirit, or does it flaunt a
fresh grievance in the eyes of men? Is
' it an advertisement of triumph or a
travelling acknowledgment of defeat?
Goethe says of Mephistopheles : "It
is written on his brow, he never loved
a human soul." Yes, thanks, too, to the
stories that men and women write on
their faces, a good deal of unworthiness
is walking around plainly labeled. No
need is there for the man with the
grasping, hard, cold, calculating expres-
sion to tell us that he has long been a
devotee of the God of Avarice; no need
for the gross, repellent, loose-lipped
individual to reveal further his service
to Sensuality, no need for the bearer of
a blear-eyed, bloated countenance to
point to the altar of his desire nor the
greedy flame that has licked up the cost-
liness of his sacrifice.
When Titian, one of the world's
greatest artists, was a youth of twenty
he fell in love with a beautiful girl.
That is, outwardly she was very attrac-
tive, but hidden beneath the pink and
white surface of her girlish charms
slumbered the instincts of treachery.
One day she deserted her lover and
married a captain of dragoons. Titian
was disconsolate, though in time he
managed to find solace in his art.
The years rolled by, and one mem-
orable morning when the famous artist
was seventy-five he happened to be
passing a church where in front crouched
280
AMERICAN COOKERY
a ragged, dirty, disheveled old woman
whose face was lined with the lines of
hate and disappointment.
Titian stopped and looked at her;
something in her very repulsiveness
seemed to fascinate him. Instantly he
was seized with the desire to make a
portrait of her, to picture the depth of
degradation to which a human being
could fall. "I shall paint her and call
the picture 'Falsehood,' " he said.
Tossing her a coin he set up his easel
and began to paint. The old crone eyed
him narrowly. Presently, she broke
the silence in high raucous appeal,
"Ah, Titian, don't you remember? You
loved me once!"
Something in her words took him back
over fifty years to the promise-land of
youth, and he shuddered as he recalled
her.
Titian lived to be one hundred. Yet
he was handsome and commanding in
presence beyond his ninetieth year.
His life had early been dedicated to
service, beauty and high endeavor.
Such days of faithfulness to lofty ideals
and purposeful pursuits never fail to
write their inspiring message so that
''he who runs may read."
Now what of these little chisels of
thought that are daily registering the
depths and heights of human motives?
What are they limning on your face and
mine?
Here at the portals of the new year,
let us scrutinize the unfinished story of
yesterday and compare it with today's
developments, to find out. It may end
in a friendlier allegiance with some of the
sunnier factions of life and a countenance
that radiates their helpfulness.
Talks to a Normal Class
By Mary D. Chambers
Atithor of " Principles of Food Pi'eparation '
IN some city school systems every
day's lesson is planned for the
teacher, and the boast is made that
every child in every school in each grade
at every hour is doing the same thing.
In other school systems the ground to be
covered each month or quarter is set
before the teacher, and no questions
are asked so long as the assigned sub-
jects are studied. For a teacher of
originality and experience this is a more
delightful way to work, but it calls for
a much higher degree of executive
ability, initiative, resourcefulness — and
above all, for much more judgment
and experience than a young teacher can
always be counted on to possess. Never-
theless, since it is the more difficult,
as well as the more excellent way, we
shall in today's discussion of the lesson
assume that the teacher is given a free
hand. -
There is one thing the cooking-
teacher may take for granted when she
meets her class for the first time — that
is, that they will come to her predisposed
to be interested in what they are going
to learn. She will not need, as she
might if she were a teacher of Ele-
mentary Algebra, to arouse and stimu-
late an interest in the outcome of
(x — 2y) (x + 4y), but she will need
to see to it that she does not inhibit or
stifle or kill the interest her children
already have — the pleased anticipation
with which they enter her room. I
have known teachers who made a
lesson in scouring and dusting the first
TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS
281
in a course In Cookery! I have known
others who had the children make
starch paste for another class to bind their
note-hooks with. This is what you
might call altruism with a vengeance.
Poor children! and poor, poor teachers!
In your first lesson, even if you are
determined they shall dust , or scour,
remember that fruits and vegetables
can be steamed or baked while cleaning
is being done, or small cups of cocoa
can be made in newly scoured sauce-
pans for refreshment before the class
is dismissed.
The practical preparation for your
lesson should be done in a very business-
like fashion. Do your marketing
methodically, so as to keep within your-
appropriation as well as to make things
easier for yourself. Keep an account
of every item of supplies used for each
lesson, the number of pupils in class,
the total cost, and the cost per cap.
You are going to learn more about the
practical end of things during your first
year of teaching than you did in your
whole training-^course, but it is quite
possible you may have to work harder to
do it. Keep an account of such little
items as the number of prunes in a
pound, the number of apples in a peck,
the weight of a quart of potatoes, the
volume of a pound of rolled oats. A
special book, alphabetically arranged,
with weight, cost, and volume of all
sorts of food-stuffs, will be a staff to
lean upon in years to come.
Your heart may thump real hard when
your first real class files in on the stroke
of the bell, and from twenty to thirty
pair of eyes stare at you appraisingly
in the cold-blooded and impersonal way
children have with a new teacher. Be
sure that your voice is calm, and clear,
and pleasing when you assign their
seats. I like to seat my children
alphabetically. In a large class it is
much easier to remember the names,
and the quicker you can tack the right
name to the right child the sooner will a
good relation be established between
you. If you allow them to sit as they
please, jostle one another, form little
groups and bands of friendship, the
result will be that some children will
be left out in the cold and will feel bad,
while the dominant spirits in the class,
having seated themselves their own way,
will think they can have their own
way in everything else. But I do not
like to see a teacher assign seats ar-
bitrarily. Do you remember when you
went to kindergarten how the piano
was made to stand for the voice of
authority? This kept the children from
regarding the teacher as the arbitrary
promulgator of law, for the p;ano was
the outside law, which all obeyed, and
which the teacher only called attention
to. Similarly in seating the children the
alphabet is the outside law. In dealing
with adult classes, or in some other
situations, I would not adhere to this
method, but a new teacher with a hew
class may easily strike the right or
wrong note in this initial act of assigning
the seats.
More depends on the first lesson, or on
the first two or three lessons, than on
any of the succeeding ones. You must
show your classes in the beginning:
(1) what the subject is — the hygienic
and appetizing preparation of wholesome
food; (2) what this work demands —
accuracy, neatness, careful observation,
correct inference, ability to generalize
and to apply; (3) where its end-point
lies — in the home, in the comfort and
welfare of the family.
In every lesson you should aim: (1) to
form good habits, both of doing and
thinking; (2) to enrich knowledge, to
send your children out of the room
knowing something that they did not
know when they came in; (3) to stimu-
late self-activity.
1. To Form Good Habits. Isn't it
Professor James who said that "all our
life is a mass of habits?" If I were to
discuss all of the habits that we teachers
could help to form in our classes, I
should not pass this point for a year.
282
AMERICAN COOKERY
Habits of accuracy, method, obedience,
order, thoroughness, subordination,
altruism, and all the civic virtues can be
fostered in the cooking-class. I shall
dwell on only a few of them.
One of the most important habits to
foster is that of accurate measurement
of ingredients. This should be planned
for as early as possible in the course.
I would not give a whole lesson on
measuring, but I would plan to teach the
different measurements incidental to
the making of different dishes, and I
would be very solemn in emphasizing
the importance of careful measuring
every time I gave instruction about it.
It is not always easy to train eager,
impatient children, who want imme-
diately to beat things up in bowls or
stir them round and round in saucepans,
to measure painstakingly and ac-
curately, but it can be done. I once
visited a young teacher's class at its
fifth or sixth lesson. Instructions for
making muffins had been given, and the
teacher came and seated herself opposite
to me, with her back to the class, while
she chatted about things in general.
I kept one whole eye on the children,
and every single one of them smoothed
out her tablespoonfuls and divided into
accurate halves and quarters her tea-
spoonfuls, as carefully as if Miss B. had
been at her elbow. Until you know
your children will do this, whether you
play policeman or not, you have not
taught them to measure. But do not
have them dole out one-sixteenth of a
salt-spoonful of something or other
under the delusion that you are training
them in accuracy when you are only
training them in waste of time.
Children appreciate good sense quite as
much as we do. I am never afraid to
tell my class that there are times when
very accurate measurements — for in-
stance of the non-essentials in a flour
mixture (see chapters on Batters and
Doughs, "Principles of Food Prepara-
tion) — are not absolutely necessary,
for these condiment al substances,
flavorings and the like, are largely a
matter of taste or even of convenience.
Lose no opportunity to train your
children in methodical habits. Teach
them before beginning their work to
estimate the number and kinds of
utensils they will need, to work with as
few as possible — it is the sign of a green
hand to use all the dishes in the closet —
and to use their utensils with foresight.
Children, if left to themselves, will
thoughtlessly measure ingredients ac-
cording to the sequence given in the
recipe, thus for a white sauce they will
be sure to measure the butter first —
then the single tablespoon allotted to
each girl will have to be washed and
dried before she can measure the flour.
Similarly, in the lessons on Batters and
Doughs, I like to teach them to measure
the wet ingredients in the largest bowl,
then to add the dry things to the wet,
instead of the wet to the dry, which
would involve more difficult dish-wash-
ing, as well as greater waste of
material — for part of a good wetting
of beaten egg and milk will cling to the
bowl from which it is poured. The
wetting, too, is usually the measure of
the amount to be made; for example,
one cup of wetting is the basal measure
for a 1-lb. loaf of bread, while the
volume of flour to be kneaded into this
will depend on the kind and quality of
the flour.
Another good habit to foster is the
habit of obedience. This is best pro-
moted by positive, rather than by
negative commands. Good pedagogues
tell us that the command, "thou shalt"
is more forceful — more potent to bring
about obedience — than "thou shalt
not" — for almost anyone of origi-
nality and daring will be stimulated by
prohibition to do the forbidden thing.
Curiously enough, it is generally easier
to frame negative than positive com-
mands. We are apt to say impulsively:
"Don't slam the oven door," or "Don't
let your sauce get lumpy," and this
impulse has to be consciously inhibited
HOME-COMING
283
by us before we can thoughtfully frame
the positive command: ''Close the oven
f door gently," or "Stir your sauce per-
fectly smooth." The ten commands of
the Great Lawgiver were nearly all
negative. The two commands of the
Great Teacher, on which hang "the
whole Law and the t^rophets"- are both
positive.
The activities of the cooking-class are
so joy-bringing to children, so full of
interest and delight, that to form habits
of good behavior in the individual and
good discipline in the class should not
be difficult. But by good discipline I
do not mean that rigid repression of
spontaneity, that stony and depressing
silence enforced in prison shops under
the old and happily-becoming-obsolete
penological regime. By discipline I
mean a free order. Let your children
feel natural, be natural, and act natur-
ally, so long as they are courteous,
kindly, and well-behaved. I do not see
why talking should be prohibited in a
cooking-class. I can see that con-
versation might be incompatible with
the extraction of cube roots, but liot
why it should be incompatible with
cake-making. When a child is interested
in what she is doing, she is very unlikely
to talk about anything else, if, indeed,
she is not too absorbed for speech, so a
little conversation with her neighbor
about their work should be a help rather
than a hindrance. Just as we teachers
in former times tried to teach cooking
in the same way as Chemistry (see
American Cookery for April), so now
many of us model our class-room
discipline on that of the teachers of
mathematics. Cooking is a very
different thing, and the cooking-room
should be a delightfully different place.
There is one time in your lesson,
however, when your free order may
easily degenerate into disorder. This is
dish- washing time. The joys of cooking
and eating are now over, tongues are
loosed, restraint is dropped, there is a
slap-dash-and-hurry attitude, and the
class goes to pieces. I had a young
genius in my training-class one year who
solved the problem in her practice class
by putting the review questions on the
lesson during dish- washing time. By
this method she had order, quietness,
and — as she remarked — particular de-
votion to scouring and shining-up on the
part of the girls who hoped thus to
escape being questioned.
This brings me to one of my hobbies,
that is, the art of questioning. But I
have exceeded my time — and my
space — so I must leave this as well as
the discussion of my second and third
points for our next meeting.
(See American Cookery for December)
The Homecoming
1 roam the highways over and over]
For the wisp of a gleam that leads me;
I trample the dust in the noon-day sun
And call — but it never heeds me ;
I follow the gold to the slumbering west
Where the road and the sky arch play,
But the wisp of a dream on the border line
Eludes me — it will not stay.
For a man may fail to find the trail
That leads to his heart's desire.
But on he must through mud and dust
From dawn to evening fire.
But who is this in the highway standing.
She with the eyes that call me?
I am tired of the road, the sinuous road,
Her laughing eyes enthrall me.
I long for the teel of her cooling hand
On my hair and my throbbing brow;
Then take my love, O wife of my dreams,
I would cease my wandering now.
For we can not fail to find the trail
That leads to our heart's desire,
If love as guide with us abide
From dawn to evening fire.
Elias Lieherman.
Starving Humanity
By A. W. Herr, M. D.
MAN is a form through which
a stream of matter flows."
This matter is composed
of some fifteen different elements. Com-
bined, they form hydrocarbons, carbo-
hydrates, proteids and mineral salts;
or, in simpler forms, starches, sugars,
albumins, fats, and mineral salts.
These mineral salts are found in
combination as phosphate of iron, phos-
phate of lime, phosphate of magnesium,
etc. All of these salts are found in the
blood, for blood contains material for
every tissue and cell of the body, and
furnishes nourishment for every organ.
Do we supply in our diet these fifteen
elements in proper proportion and quan-
tity?
The factory worker, living on beef,
beer, and devitalized white bread,
secures his proportion of proteids and
starches, and perhaps hydrocarbons, or
fats, in the form of grease and butter,
but what about the mineral salts?
Many workmen are starving themselves
and families. It is a safe estimate that
50,000,000 of people in the United
States are literally suffering the pangs
and pains of mineral starvation.
Daily metabolism demands adequate
material for repair, else disease in some
form or other will supervene. Brain
and nerve, muscle and bone, must be
fed; and the demand is constant and
unceasing. Not alone material for the
production of heat and energy, but basic
material in the form of mineral sub-
stances must be supplied daily.
Five or six per cent of the body- weight
is mineral elements. We supply these
elements to the body chiefly in the form
of organic salts. These salts afford no
energy, yet are found to be indispensable
to the processes of nutrition; especially
is this true in the exchange of fluids
through the membranes of the cells.
This exchange we call osmosis, and
osmosis can only take place when two
or more salts are present; so that the
ingredients of the fluids on one side of
the cell membrane should be different
in chemical composition from those on
the other side. A German scientist
found that animals fed on food freed
from mineral elements died sooner than
those not fed at all.
Prof. Jacques Loeb, University of
Chicago, says that the process of osmosis
is based on electrolysis going on in
millions of invisible batteries, by the
play of electrically charged molecules
whose negative and positive effects
depend upon the presence of certain
mineral salts. Prof. Loeb goes further
and states that "the chief role of all food
is not to be digested and burned in the
muscles and organs, but to supply
electrical "ions." The heat developed
is a by-product. The chief action is the
production of electricity."
The body is in some sense a dynamo.
The nerve fibers are electrical wires,
nerve cells, storage batteries, nerve
force and electricity, identical. Food
then, is of value according to the amount
and kind of electricity afforded. Raw
food best supplies this electrical vitality
because of the presence of organic salts.
Cooked foods supply the least vitality
because in the process of cooking the
mineral salts are "freed." The iron,
the calcium, the potassium return to
their inorganic state, in which form they
cannot be utilized by the animal
economy.
In boiling potatoes, for example,
most of the potassium salts are dissolved
out into the water, and this is usually
thrown away. The same is true of
other vegetables and of rice. In fact,
it is true of any food subjected to the
process of boiling. Again, in any pro-
284
STARVING HUMANITY
285
cess of cooking, the heat chemically
changes the salts into inorganic com-
pounds ; and in such form they are not
usable. Indeed, this is the chief objec-
tion to cooking foods; that the salts
are rendered chemically and electrically
useless.
However, in the case of very starchy
food products, as rice and potatoes, it
seems necessary that the starch be
dextrinized by cooking, in order to
render it soluble and digestible. This
can best be accomplished by either
steaming or baking. But in the case
of albumins and fats, no such necessity
supervenes, as fats and albumins can be
digested as well, or better, raw than_
cooked.
In cooking fruit, leaf and stem vege-
tables, milk, eggs, and most nuts there
is a decided disadvantage, as these are
the food products richest in mineral
salts and freest from starchy elements.
Because of this, every daily menu should
contain at least some of these food pro-
ducts in a raw state.
Again, in the cooking process evap-
oration takes place, more water is added,
and the earthy sub'stances (principally
lime), which are present in the water,
remain by the evaporation of the latter,
and the system becomes overloaded by
the presence of burdensome material.
In the growing period of life mineral
matter is especially called for. This is
practically the period of white flour, tea,
refined sugar, and candy; all of which
are deficient in organic salts. Such
deficiency results in rickets and pre-
mature decay of the teeth. Something
must be radically wrong with our dietetic
habits that this country should require
an army of 40,000 dentists to keep our
teeth in repair. Lower animals, some
of which live to a ripe old age, are not
such sufferers. Animals, when they eat
meat, gnaw the bones, also, thus
obtaining the necessary phosphates and
calcium salts.
What the public is suffering from is
mineral starvation; and an enterprising
drug concern, recognizing this fact,
undertakes to supply this deficiency by
gathering up old bones and grinding
them to powder; and they offer to sell
us this bone powder to mix with our food.
Not such a bad idea after all when we
consider that meat without the bone is
quite deficient in natural salts.
But there is a better way. Wheat —
the whole grain I refer to — is practically
a perfect food. It contains all the
fifteen elements found in the body, and
in almost identical proportion; but
modern milling impoverishes the wheat
kernel by removing the outer layers
containing, in addition to the bran, most
of the salts and gluten.
Again, yeast baking further impover-
ishes the flour by alcoholic and carbonic
acid fermentation to the extent of
twenty per cent.
Dr. Victor Vaughan, University of
Michigan, says that in anaemia, inor-
ganic forms of iron cannot be utilized to
supply the hemoglobin of the blood
corpuscles. What is true of iron is true
of other salts. Animal life, being of a
high order, cannot feed directly upon
the inorganic matter, but plant life can
appropriate the crystals and assimilate
and transform them into cell-life by a
process of refining, vitalizing and chem-
ical combustion, and thus render the
mineral available for man.
Prof. Voit of Munich finds that about
thirty-one grams of proteid (Fisher
places it at forty-five), are needed for
an average man, which is about the
amount of mineral matter needed in the
form of organic salts. But how much
is said about the former, and what little
said of the necessity or quantity of
the latter.
In reviewing a table of food products,
to ascertain the amount of salts found
in each, we were surprised to see ripe
olives at the head of the list, with 4.4
per cent mineral substance ; raisins with
3.2 per cent, pine nuts (pignolias) at
3 per cent. Notice the poverty of beef
(Continued on page 302)
286
AMERICAN COOKERY
AMERICAN COOKERY
FORMERLY THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE
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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
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Statement of ownership and nianageijient as reqjiired by
the Act of Congress of August 24, igi2
Editor: Janet M, Hill
Business Managers: R. B. Hill, B. M. Hill
0%ane7-s^
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221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
published ten times a year by
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Entered at Boston Post-okfice as Second-class Matter
THE losses caused by the great war
are incredible and beyond the com-
pass of the most virile imagination.
There are the awful harvests of legalized
murder, death, wounds, poverty, grief,
and social desolation. The finest ideals
of civilization have been shattered,
Christianity has become a byword in
heathen lands, and the friendship of
nations has been thrust into the back-
ground. Worse than all, from the
scholar's point of view, is the dis-
ruption of the Republic of Letters,
that fair inheritance founded and be-
queathed to us by men of light and
learning in all lands. At a Liberal
Congress in Boston once a French
speaker was heartily applauded by a
German scholar; in our time such a
thing cannot happen again, and more's
the pity. ' '
EDITORIAL COMMENT
WITH the opinions and sentiments
presented in our contributed ar-
ticles American Cookery may and may
not entirely agree. We believe in freedom
of thought and its expression and, hence,
are not inclined to tamper with the views
of the writers and authors whose con-
tributions we are pleased to accept and
publish. Their opinions are to be re-
spected; as editors only our responsibil-
ities must be considered. For instance,
in choice of food, we have neither
practiced nor advocated strict vegetar-
ianism and yet the subject is not one
to be tabooed in a culinary publication.
Likewise, in the present day, universal
suffrage, marriage and divorce, politics,
etc., etc., are much mooted questions,
in respect to which our sentiments are
not called for nor desired. In short, we
are propagandists of nothing save plain,
wholesome, cheerful home life. This
is a field broad enough for the efforts
of the most ambitious. Here is ground
safe to tread upon, with no risk of tres-
passing on the sensibilities and convic-
tions of others. Our theme is home
life, of which our annual Thanksgiving
festival is a most distinctive feature.
We commend the celebration of Thanks-
giving Day and all that it commemorates.
Of affairs in general there is one point,
however, wherein we wish to make
reservation. In every matter of small
or large import a moral issue is involved
— the question of justice or injustice,
right or wrong, comes up for decision.
Once to every man and nation comes the moment
to decide,
In the strife of Truth with Falsehood,
For the good or evil side.
Just here at this point we are always
ready to claim the privilege, not to
shirk responsibility, but to stand up
and be counted.
EDITORIALS
287
THE HISTORIC MARKET DIS-
TRICT OF BOSTON
NEAR the center of what is now
the business district of Boston,
and what was formerly the
pcHtical center of colonial Boston, there
is to be found a large gray granite
structure built about a hundred years
ago by the first Mayor Quincy.
Rather oddly it is sometimes spoken of
as the Faneuil Hall Market, instead of
the Quincy Market ; and the older
stand, opposite, is paradoxically referred
to, as the "New" Faneuil Hall Market.
However, there is a reason. Faneuil
Hall was instituted primarily as a
market house in 1742 (the inclusion of
a public town hall coming into the scheme
later), hence the present name. In
1825 when this Josiah Quincy was
managing Boston's municipal affairs,
he realized that, in the not far distant
future, the city would need a larger
market than the lower story of the old
hall afforded, so the 535-foot structure
was erected across the street from the
historic building. The original market
was closed, to be reopened, however,
in 1858 — whence the reference to the
new in the present acceptation of the
name.
At present, sundry small stands are
to be foimd in various sections of the
half-mile-square area (once a sweep of
fiats and docks) which now comprises
the market district. All the approaches
to the square are bordered with these
stands, with the result that we can
imagine the present markets as having
conceived and brought into existence
several generations of markets. One is
not permitted, however, to push the
analogy further, because all of the
niunerous progeny have suffered from
arrested development.
Considering that the Quincy Market
was opened in 1826, it is in marvelously
good shape. Far-sighted, indeed, must
have been the architect who designed,
and the builders who put up a structure
that, after the lapse of nearly a century,
still holds it own with many newer
markets.
In Boston, our public market facilities
are unappreciated by the great majority
of the citizens. Indeed, were not these
splendid facilities comparatively un-
known to most of us, the need for newer
and larger buildings would undoubtedly
make itself felt.
Here there may be found food pro-
ducts, not only of our own wide country,
but of the world. From all quarters of
the globe come contributions to hungry
humanity's needs. By rail, come fruits
from California; dairy products from
New York ; pork, beef and mutton from
Chicago and the West; while fast
steamers bring to our very doors the
choicest results of each country's labor,
ingenuity, and skill. The words
"ingenuity and skill" are used advisedly,
because, as world-marketing increases,
scientific methods come into use all
over the food raising areas of the globe.
Intensive farming is but one branch of
a world-wide re-organization of indus-
trial efficiency. Similar methods are
employed wherever food products are
being raised, to any large extent; and
these great markets help to take care of
the output.
Experts who are visiting, regularly,
all the great market centers of the
country report that none surpass the
Boston market as to the value and
excellence of the merchandise, and
it might be added, in the courtesy and
honesty of the tradesmen. Still, as the
Boston scribe trailed around in the
great market a few nights ago, she found
herself contrasting its Puritan severity
and strict utilitarian character with
New York's recent gift from Vincent
Astor; and she found herself wishing
that, some day, Boston might be the
recipient of a similar institution.
This new building erected under the
direction of Mr. Astor, and opened on
October 16, 1915, has been characterized
as the "last w^ord" in market buildino:.
288
AMERICAN COOKERY
Planned after the Renaissance markets
of Florence, it combines utility with a
high degree of artistry, as to design and
finish. It is a huge structure — white
and light, and so clean that a fly would
starve in it. All. meat and poultry is
kept in plate glass cases which are
refrigerated from two twenty-ton ice
making machines in the lower part of
the building. There is an immense
incinerator which burns, without odor,
all the waste and garbage.
All these great central food dispen-
saries are indicative of more than the
casual thinker ascribes to them. The
tendency of the time is away from
Competion toward Co-operation, and
these great municipal market-places,
though illustrating both tendencies, tend
more strongly towards the latter. It
remains for the housewives of all our
large cities to avail themselves of the
advantages and privileges resulting
therefrom. First, however, Mrs. House-
wife must divorce herself from the
telephone method of marketing, rise
above her unreasoning distaste for
carrying parcels, develop her discrim-
inating ability, and follow the good
example of the women of Washington,
D. C, who may be seen in the trolley,
in motors and on foot, carrying the
inevitable shallow basket, laden with
the results of a morning pilgrimage to
the big market.
In the old days "ladies" meant "loaf-
givers." Why should not the words
today be interpreted loaf -buyers?
Unexampled trade facilities have placed
the fruits of the land and the sea at our
disposal. Shall we not profit thereby?
B. W.
The Boy Who Will Be in Demand
One of the finest qualities in a work-
man is the quality of seeing what needs
to be done and doing it without being
told. One of the rarest in a servant in
the house is the doing of things that
need to be done without being told.
Young men working their way through
college are invaluable if they have this
quality. A tool is left out on the lawn;
there is a rail off the fence; there is a
lock broken from the door; there is a
window-pane gone somewhere. The
boy who tends to these things because
they need attending to, without specific
directions, is the boy who, other things
being equal, is going to be in demand
when he gets out into the great world,
and it is the attention to little things
and the habit of observation, which
sees what needs to be done and then
does it, which makes exceedingly useful
men and women. There will always be
a position for such persons. There
will alv/ays be a call to come up higher.
— Exchange.
Preparedness!
The Keynote of Supremacy!
P-ray! have we
R-eached the MILLENNIUM,
E-nsuring safe
P-rotection from
A-rtful law breakers?
R-est assured, then that our country's
E-TERNAL PEACE
D-emands the same
N-ucleus of PROTECTION in
E-volutionary PREPAREDNESS that
S-ensible individual citizens demand for them-
selves!
S-o endeth the first warning!
P-ray! have we EACH
R-eached that
E-volutionary state where
P-eace reigns supreme in our hearts?
A-rgument evokes angelic smiles?
R-iches, we covet not?
E-fficiency is paramount?
D-omestic bliss universal?
N-ever, then can we expect
E-nnobling UNIVERSAL PEACE to reign
S-upreme without PREPAREDNESS!
8-0 endeth the second warning!
P-ray! In our Pilgrim fathers'
R-egime do we discover the
E-ndangering motto:
"P-EACE AT ANY PRICE?"
A-nd is our beloved and
R-evered flag
E-mblematical of so spineless a motto?
D-evour conscientiously the
N-umerous biblical teachings! They truly
E-volve as the priceless motto of loyalty:
"S-TAMINA FOR RIGHT AT ANY PRICE!'
S-o endeth the final warning!
Caroline Louise Sumner.
TURKEY TRUSSED FOR ROASTING
Seasonable and Tested Recipes
By Janet M. Hill
IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful.
Cold Bonnes-Bouches
Roll puff-paste into a thin sheet and
cut out into rounds to fit the outside of
small "patty-pans." Cover the pans
with the pastry, cutting it smooth on
the edge; prick it with a fork and bake
until done; remove the shells from the
pans and set them aside to chill. Mix
one-fourth a cup of chicken broth in
which half a tablespoonful of gelatine
has been softened with one-fourth
a cup, each, of hot tomato sauce and
hot Bechamel sauce; add one-fourth
a teaspoonful of chili vinegar, one
teaspoonful of capers and one-fourth
a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce;
then stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs
and let cook, stirring constantly, over
boiling water until the egg is set; stir
in half a cup of cooked chicken and
one-fourth a cup of lean, cooked ham
both cut in quarter-inch cubes. Add
additional seasoning if needed, and stir
in ice and water until beginning to
thicken, then use to fill the puff-paste
cases. Fill the cases to about half
their height. Chill thoroughly. Set a
figure cut from pickled beets or from a
slice of truffle or cooked egg above the
mixture in each shell. Serve on lace
papers laid on small plates as a first
course. The meat should be rather
highly seasoned.
Little Cheese Boats
Roll puff or flaky pastry about one-
eighth of an inch thick and cut into
pieces to cover the outside of very small
boat or oval shaped tins. Cut around
the edge of each neatly, prick all over
with a fork and set onto a baking sheet.
289
290
AMERICAN COOKERY
Let bake until done. Heat three table-
spoonfuls of Bechamel sauce; add half
a cup of melted aspic, one-fourth a
teaspoonful, each, of salt and cayenne
also two level tablespoonfuls of grated
Parmesan cheese and four of grated
Gruyere cheese. , Stir over ice and water
until cool but not set, then fold in one-
fourth a cup of cream, whipped very
stiff. Continue to fold the mixture
until it begins to stiffen, then with
bag and star tube pipe the mixture into
the pastry cases. Garnish with fine-
chopped green pistachio nuts. Serve
as a last course with coffee.
when the soup is ready to serve with
croutons or toasted crackers. The soup
may be made in larger quantity and
stored as canned fruit in glass jars.
Fish Salad in Shells
Any cooked fish may be used for
salad. Separate the fish into flakes and
marinate it with equal measures of lemon
juice and oil; scrape in a little onion
juice, and sprinkle each pint of fish with
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth
a teaspoonful of paprika. Mix without
breaking the fish and let stand in a cool
place an hour or longer. When ready
FISH SALAD IN SHELLS
Tomato Soup
Put over the fire three quarts of sliced
or canned tomatoes, three branches of
celery, three cloves, three tablespoonfuls
of sugar, three teaspoonfuls of salt,
half a bay leaf, three sprigs of parsley,
and half a red pepper with an onion and
a half chopped coarse; let cook twenty
minutes then strain through a fine sieve,
using a pestle to secure as much of the
tomato as possible. Melt three table-
spoonfuls of butter; in it stir and cook
three tablespoonfuls of flour, until
bubbling throughout; let chill a few
minutes; add a little of the tomato
pulp and stir; add more pulp several
times, stirring meanwhile, then when
smooth and well diluted stir into the
hot soup; continue to stir until boiling,
to serve, drain the fish and mix with it
two tablespoonfuls of thin-sHced cucum-
ber pickles, two tablespoonfuls of capers,
one-fourth a cup of thin-sliced olives and
enough mayonnaise to hold all together.
Set the salad in scallop shells, smooth
over the tops with a silver knife and
cover or mask completely with mayon-
naise dressing. Garnish with shreds
cut from green pepper, bits of Japanese
parsley, figures cut from pickled beets
and hard-cooked egg-white. Let chill
thoroughly before serving.
Fish Baked in Crust, York Beach
Style
Remove the skin from a fresh cod or
haddock, cut deep gashes across each
side of the fish, three inches apart and
set a narrow strip of fat salt pork in each
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
291
TUNA FISH SALAD
gash. Rub salt and pepper into the
€sh on both sides. Make a rich biscuit
crust and roll it to a size to cover the
fish. Set the fish at the center of the
■crust and bring the crust up to cover it
■completely. Bake in a buttered pan.
To serve, cut across the fish, using care
to cut through the bone. Serve with
-egg sauce.
Clam Bannock, New York Style
Mix an old-fashioned cornmeal ban-
mock and let bake. Cut salt pork in
.•small bits and cook in a frying pan until
"the fat is well tried out. Remove the
tough portion of the clams and chop
ifine. Have just enough fat in the pan
to keep the clams from sticking to it;
add both the soft and chopped portions
•of the clams, stir a few minutes, then
add as much white sauce as clams.
Split the bannock, spread each piece
with butter, cover one-half with the
clam mixture, set the other half above
and finish with the rest of the clam
mixture. A pint of sauce and a quart
of uncooked clams are needed for a
bannock made of two or three cups of
cornmeal. A modern corncake might
be preferred by many to the bannock
made of meal, salt and water.
Corncake
Sift together one cup and a half of
flour, three-fourths of a cup of corn-
meal, one-third of a cup of sugar, four
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and
one-half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat one
egg and one yolk; add three-fourths of
a cup of milk and stir into the dry
ingredients with three tablespoonfuls of
melted butter.
Tuna Fish Salad
Open a can of Tuna fish as close to the
edge of the can as possible, drain off all
liqtdd, and turn the fish in as compact
shape as possible upon a bed of carefully
NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER
292
AMERICAN COOKERY
washed and dried heart-leaves of lettuce.
Pour one cup of mayonnaise dressing
over the fish, sprinkle the whole with
shreds of sweet green pepper and serve
a second cup of mayonnaise in a bowl.
This will serve eight to ten people.
New England Boiled Dinner
Select a piece of brisket; cover this
with cold water, let heat slowly to the
boiling point, then let simmer until
tender. The brisket does not vary
much in thickness and, from time to
time, the duration of cooking will not
vary very much. Set to cook at seven
a. m., the meat will usually be tender
by twelve o'clock. Take out the meat
and set into the warming oven ; into the
liquid put the potatoes, pared, and the
carrots, scraped and, if large, cut in
halves, cover and let cook until the
vegetables are done — a little less than
half an hour will be required. In the
meanwhile, cook a cabbage, cut in
quarters, in a large sauce pan of boiling
require from one to two hours cooking.
Cook turnips in unsalted water.
Stewed Chicken, with Biscuit
Select a chicken about a year old;
singe, draw, and separate into pieces at
the joints. Wash and cover with boiling
water, let boil ten minutes, then cook at
the simmering point until tender, about
two hours. Melt one-fourth a cup of
butter (use fat from the top of the broth
in place of butter) ; in it cook one-fourth
a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper
until frothy; add one-fourth a cup of
cream, mix and add two cups of the
chicken broth and stir and cook until
boiling. Beat two egg-yolks; add two
tablespoonfuls of cream and a few grains,
of salt and beat into the sauce. Set the
joints of chicken in symmetrical fashion
in the center of a large chop-plate, set
hot baking powder biscuit around the
chicken and pour the sauce over both
chicken and biscuit.
STEWED CHICKEN, WITH BISCUIT
water, from half to three quarters of an
hour. Set carefully washed beets to
cook at the same time as the meat ; when
cooked, drain, cover with cold water,
and slip off the skin. Leave the beef
in the center of the platter with the
vegetables around it. A corned fore-
quarter of lamb or of pork may replace
the beef. Turnips are often served
with this dish. Cut in slices they will
Sausage Cannelons
Roll half a pound of puff paste about
one-eighth an inch thick and cut it
into strips half an inch wide; roll the
strips of paste around lady-lock sticks,
so that the strip of paste overlaps half
the other until the whole stick is covered ;
set the paste-covered sticks in a baking;
pan, brush over with egg-yolk, beaten
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
293
CHICKEN GALANTINE, GRAPE DECORATION
and diluted with its volume of milk.
Bake until done. Have ready choice
cooked links of sausage cut into thin
slices, for each cup and a half of sausage
slices; take one cup of Bechamel sauce
in which the liquid is cream and chicken
broth. Slip the cannelons from the
sticks and fill with the sausage mixture.
Serve as an entree after or with roast
turkey; or, as the main hot dish at a
Thanksgiving supper.
Chicken Galantine, Grape
Decoration
Bone a chicken, separate the flesh
■from the skin, lay the skin on a board
and trim to make a rectangtilar shape.
Push the skin of the legs and wings inside
and spread the flesh evenly over the
skin to cover it as nearly as possible.
Cover the flesh with a veal-loaf mixture,
.adding here and there a mushroom, or
•cubes of raw fat salt pork or pickled
tongue at pleasure. Roll and sew into
:shape, tie in cotton cloth, in three places
to keep the shape uniform. Set the
chicken bones into a saucepan, cover
with cold water and when boiling set
the galantine above the bones, cover
and let simmer about three hours.
Press under a weight, when cold pour
over a chaudfroid sauce just on the
point of setting. Dispose rounds cut
from slices of truffles and parsley
branches with stems on the sauce to
represent a bunch of grapes with leaves
and tendrils. Serve cold, cut in thin
slices, with celery -and-white grape salad.
Chaudfroid Sauce
To a pint of mayonnaise dressing or
Bechamel sauce, add two tablespoonfuls
of gelatine softened in cold water and
dissolved by standing over boiHng water.
The gelatine may be dissolved in the
Bechamel sauce while it is hot.
Celery-and- White Grape Salad
Cut celery hearts into thin slices.
Remove the skin from white grapes,
TOMATO-AND-CELERY SALAD DE LUXE
294
AMERICAN COOKERY
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, DOUGH READY FOR ROLLING
cut them in halves and discard the seeds.
Use equal measures of celery and grapes ;
dress with French dressing.
Tomato-and-Celeiy Salad de Luxe
Peel several common choice, ripe, red
tomatoes and a few yellow, plum
tomatoes. Cut the red tomatoes in
thick slices and the yellow tomatoes in
halves, lengthwise. Set the red tomatoes
around a center of crisp, heart celery
stalks, cut in slices, and dispose the
yellow tomatoes above. Pour over
French dressing flavored with a Httle
scraped onion, and serve at once. For
a luncheon salad use mayonnaise dressing.
Parker House Rolls
Crumble a cake of
compressed yeast into
half a cup of luke-
warm milk or water, mix
thoroughly and add two
cups of lukewarm milk;
stir in from two to three
cups of bread flour
(sifted) then beat until
very smooth. Cover
with a plate and let
stand in a temperature
of about 70 degrees F.,
until light and puffy.
Add two tablespoonfuls
of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, from
one-third to one-half a cup of shortening
and flour to make a dough. Knead
until smooth and elastic. Wash out the
bowl, butter thoroughly and set the
dough in it; cover and let stand until
doubled in bulk. Turn upon a hghtly-
floured board, upper side down, and roll
into a sheet about half an inch thick;
cut into rounds; brush one half of each
round with melted butter and fold the
other half over the buttered half. Set
close together in a buttered pan. When
again doubled in bulk, bake about half
an hour. Brush over with white of egg
slig:htrv beaten and return to the oven
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, DOUGH READY TO CUT
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES
295
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, READY FOR THE TABLE
to set the egg. Note that the dough,
when light, is not cut down, but is turned
without disturbing it in the least upon
the board. In this way, but a few
motions with the rolling pin are needed
to roll it into a thin sheet.
Apple Pie, Flaky Upper Crust
Line a pie plate with plain pastry and
fill it with sliced apples; pour over one
cup of sugar, one-fourth a teaspoonful of
salt and dot with bits of butter; grate
over a little nutmeg; brush the edge
of the pastry with cold water and set
a round of flaky pastry above ; press the
edges together, brush with cold water
and let bake about twenty-five minutes.
Plain Pastry
Sift together one cup and a half of
flour and one-third a teaspoonful, each,
of salt and baking powder. With two
knives cut in one-third a cup of shorten-
ing, then using rather less than half a
cup of cold water, mix the ingredients
to a paste that cleans the bowl. Turn
half the paste upon a lightly floured
board, knead slightly and roll into a
round that fits the plate; let the paste
lie loosely on the plate and trim the
edge as needed.
Flaky Pastry for Upper Crust
Turn the rest of the paste upon the
board, knead slightly and roll into a
rectangular sheet. Have ready two or
three tablespoonfuls of creamed butter;
set part of this on half the paste, in little
bits, some distance apart and fold the
other half of the paste over the butter;
set other bits of butter on half of this
paste and fold the unbuttered paste over
the butter; pat with the rolling pin,
then roll into a thin sheet; fold three
times, turn half way round and again
roll into a sheet; fold three times and
roll to fit the plate.
Filling for Pumpkin Pie
Beat two eggs; add two cups of
strained pumpkin, three-fourths a cup of
granulated sugar, one-fourth a cup of
orange marmalade, chopped exceedingly
fine, a scant teaspoonful of salt, one cup
of cream and half a cup of milk; mix
thoroughly and turn into a plate lined
for a pie with but one crust. Bake about
forty-five minutes or until firm in the
center. In place of the marmalade use
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PLATE LINED WITH PASTRY FOR PUMPKIN PIE
296
AMERICAN COOKERY
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three tablespoonfuls of molasses, one
teaspoonf ul of ginger and half a teaspoon-
ful of cinnamon, or use one -fourth a
cup of ginger syrup and fine-chopped
stem ginger.
Chocolate Bavarian Cream
Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot
water; add two-thirds a cup of sugar
and one-third a cup of boiling water and
stir until boiling. Soften one-third a
package of gelatine in one-third a cup
of cold water and dissolve in the hot
chocolate mixture; add one teaspoonf ul
of vanilla extract and stir in ice and
water until the mixture begins to
thicken, then fold in one cup and a half
of cream beaten very light but not dry.
Line a mold, holding one quart, with
narrow strips of cake or lady fingers,
leaving a narrow space between them,
fill the mold with the mixture and set
aside to become chilled. Serve turned
from the mold with or without whipped
cream. In the illustration the mold
was lined with strips of cake
covered with chocolate
frosting, alternated with
cake without frosting.
Chocolate Mousse or
Parfait
Soften half a tablespoon-
ful of gelatine in one-eighth
a cup of cold milk. Scald
one cup of milk in a double
boiler. Melt two ounces of
chocolate over hot water;
add one-third a cup of
sugar and one-half a cup
of the hot milk and stir
over the fire until smooth
and boiling; then stir into
the rest of the milk in the
double boiler. Beat two
egg-yolks ; add one-third
a cup of sugar and beat
again, then stir into the
hot mixture ; stir and cook
until the egg is ''set," then
add the softened gelatine
and strain into a dish of ice and water.
Stir until beginning to thicken, then
fold in one cup and a half of cream
beaten very light Flavor with one
tablespoonful of vanilla. Turn into a
quart mold and cover with a piece of
parchment paper ; press the cover down
over the paper. Bury in equal measures
of ice and salt. Let stand about three
hours. Repack if necessary.
Cranberry Tarts
These may be made of flaky or of puff
paste. Puff paste tarts are made from
the trimmings left from patty shells.
The paste is rolled thinner than for
patties, and cut with the ordinary patty
cutter. For the filling, chop together
one cup of cranberries and half a cup of
seeded raisins; sift together one cup of
sugar, three tablespoonfuls of flour and
half a teaspoonful of salt, add to the
chopped mixture with half a cup of
boiling water and let cook in double-
boiler half an hour.
CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM
Suggestions for Thanksgiving Dinners
Some Beginnings
SLICES Canned Pineapple; Halves of Grapefruit; Grapefruit Cocktail; Grapefruit,
Orange Pineapple and White Grape Cocktail; Oyster Cocktail; Lobster Cocktail;
Bacon Canapes; Caviare Canapes.
Soups and Accessories
CLAM Broth, Browned Crackers, Pickles, Celery; Oyster Soup, Oysterettes, Celery,
Pickles; Scallop Soup, Oysterettes, Celery, Ripe Olives; Consomme, Bread Sticks,
Endive, Salted Nuts; Giblet Soup, Toasted Rolls, Celery, Olives; Tomato Soup, Imperial
Sticks, Celery, Olives; Cream of Kornlet Soup, Croutons or Pop Corn, Pickles.
Fish
BOILED Shoulder of Fresh Cod, Boiled Potatoes, Egg Sauce; Halibut, Baked Point-
Shirley Style, Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel; Filets of Flounder, Fried, Sauce Tartare;
Fresh Fish Mousse, TrufBed, Hollandaise Sauce; Turbans of Fresh Fish, Baked, Buttered
Potato Balls. ,
Entrees
INDIVIDUAL Chicken Pies; Chicken Timbales; Chicken Patties; Creamed Chicken
■'■ in Swedish Timbale Cases; Oyster Patties; Scalloped Oysters; Sweetbread and
Mushroom Patties; Scallops a la Brestoise, Choice Pork Sausage; Rice Croquettes with
Currant Jelly; Macaroni Croquettes; Chicken Croquettes; Oyster Croquettes; Lobster
Cutlets; Stuffed Peppers; Cannelons of Sausage; Cannelons of Oysters.
Roasts
D OAST Turkey, Cranberry Sauce, Giblet Sauce; Roast Chicken, Cranberry Sauce'
•■•^ Giblet Sauce; Roast Duck, Currant Jelly, Orange-and-Celery Salad; Roast Guinea
Hen, Guava Jelly; Roast Pork, Apple Sauce; Ham Baked in Cider, Apples Cooked in
Syrup or Sweet Cider Frappe.
Vegetables
R^ASHED Potatoes; Scalloped Potatoes; Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style; Onions,
^^^ stuffed with Sausage; Onions stuffed with Nuts; Creamed Onions; Buttered
Onions; Squash; Cauliflower au gratin; Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce; Chestnuts,
creamed.
Salads
DELGIAN Endive in Green Pepper Rings; Endive and Celery; Shredded Celery and
•■-' Green Pepper; Lettuce Hearts; Chiffonade of Celery, Tomatoes and Green
Peppers; Celery and Sliced Oranges or Grapefruit; Prunes, Celery and Pecan Nuts.
P
Bread
ARKER House Rolls, Rye Bread, Graham Bread, Spoon Corn Bread.
Desserts
pUMPKIN Pie; Squash Pie; Cranberry Pie; Marlboro Pie; Lemon Pie; Apple
■'■ Pie; Jelly Tarts; Lemon Cheese Cakes; Queen of Puddings; Baked Indian Pudding
with Vanilla Ice Cream; Maple and Nut Sundae; Chocolate Parfait; Grape Juice Parf ait;
Maple Syrup Cake; Lemon Queens; Sponge Cake; Maple Bonbons; Raisins; Assorted
Nuts; Dried Fruits; Pears; Apples.
Balanced Menus for Week in November
Breakfast
Baltimore Samp, Thin Cream Toast
Broiled Bacon, Small Baked Potatoes
Fried Bananas Rice Griddlecakes
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Stewed Fowl, Yellow Sauce
Baking Powder Biscuit
Sweet Pickle, Pears or Melon Rinds Celery
Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes
French Dressing
Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style
Grapejuice Charlotte Russe
Half Cups Coffee
Supper
Rice Cooked with Tomatoco and Cheese
Gluten Bread and Butter Canned Pears
Sponge Jelly Roll Tea
Breakfast
Cresco Grits, Thin Cream
Country Sausage, Fried Bananas
Stewed Potatoes
Spider Corncake
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Cream of Potato Soup
Lady Cabbage
Parker House Rolls (reheated)
Mock Mince Pie
Tea
Dinner
Rib Roast of Beef
Franconia Potatoes
Squash Celery
Apples Baked with Almonds
Honey Cookies
Breakfast
Barley Crystals, Thin Cream
Stewed Figs Chicken on Toast
Cornmeal MufSns
Coffee ' Cocoa
Luncheon
Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons
Onions Stuffed with Nuts, Baked
Seamoss Farine Blancmange
Cookies Boiled Custard
Tea
Dinner
Salisbury Steak, Hotel Style
French Fried Potatoes
Squash, Well Buttered
Tomatoes Stuffed with Celery
Cottage Pudding, Hard Sauce
Breakfast
Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream
Bacon Fried Apples
Small Baked Potatoes
Teco Griddle Cakes
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Salt Codfish Balls
Bacon Rolls (fried in deep fat)
Cabbage Salad Pop Overs
Rice Pudding with Raisins
. Coffee
Dinner
Cold Rib Roast of Beef
Mashed Potatoes Creamed Celery
Lettuce, French Dressing
Squash Pie Tea
Breakfast
Baked Apples Cream of Wheat
Finnan Haddie Fish Cakes
Piccalilli
Toast Doughnuts
Coffee Cocoa
Bacon
Luncheon
Stewed Lima Beans Parker House Rolls
Sliced Peppers and Lettuce, French Dressing
Sponge Jelly Roll Canned Pears
Tea
Dinner
Tomato Soup
Fresh Fish in Crust, York Beach Style
Macedoine of Vegetable Salad
Apple Pie, Cream Cheese
Half Cups Coffee
Breakfast
Oatmeal, Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream
Cream Toast with Cheese
Doughnuts
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Kornlet Chowder
Uneeda Biscuit Mustard Pickles
Baba, Apricot Sauce Tea
Dinner
Boiled Fresh Codfish Drawn Butter Sauce
Boiled Potatoes
Canned String Beans
Lettuce and Tomato Jelly, French Dressing
Sponge Jelly Roll
Tea
Breakfast
Hot Dates Fried Mush
Roast Beef-and-Potato Hash
Tomato Catsup
Baking Powder Biscuit
Coffee Cocoa
Luncheon
Dried Lima Beans, Stewed
Spoon Corn Bread Celery
Apple Pie Cheese
Tea
Dinner
Roast Beef Chowder
Spinach
Queen of Puddings
Peanut Brittle Tea
298
Art in Cookery
By Margaret L. Sears
IF one could produce a meal that
was artistic and at the same time
historic there would be no question
as to whether it were wise to use art in
cookery. Who has not read with in-
terest that famous introduction to Quen-^
tin Durward in which Sir Walter Scott
describes the wonderful meal which he
attended at the chateau of the French
marquis where the old servant was
"maitre d'hotel, maitre de cuisine, a
whole suite of attendants in his own
poor individuality ' ' ?
The menu is a masterpiece of per-
fection of detail both artistic and cul-
inary. It appeals even to the modern
palate with its quaint description of the
different courses. Beginning with "soupe
maigre — delicately flavored; matelot of
pike and eels." Although a Scotch-
man, Sir Walter was "reconciled to the
latter." Then follow in correct order:
"Petit-plat of bouUi • — exquisitely dressed
so as to retain all the juices; so thor-
oughly tender nothing could be more
delicate." The potage arranged in a
small dish or two was equally well
arranged. "But the crowning glory of
the feast, and what "the old m.aitre
d'hotel valued himself upon as some-
thing superb" was: "an immense assiet-
tee of spinach, not smioothed into a
uniform surface, but swelling into hills
and declining into vales over which
swept a gallant stag pursued by a pack
of hounds in, full cry and a noble field of
horsemen with bugle horns held up-
right and brandished after the manner
of broadswords, hounds, huntsman and
299
stag being all very artistically cut out
of toasted bread."
It had taken the "best part of two
days" to bring this work to perfection
and the marquis himself had conde-
scended to help make some of the
figures. After this remarkable entree
(?) came an exquisite dessert of cheese,
fruits, salad, and delicious white
wine.
Through the magic description of
Sir Walter, this famous dinner has
become a classic against which the
wonderful dish of spinach stands out
like a bas-relief of enticing browns upon
a luscious green background.
When one considers that it took
two days of continuous work to complete
this one dish he may appreciate some-
what the fact that the time consumed
in preparing a meal has always been
disproportionately long compared with
the time spent in consuming the same.
A certain young lady once remarked
that she never wanted to learn to cook
"because one could spend a whole
morning preparing a dish, while the
family could calmly eat it up in five
minutes."
This same person took a good in-
surance business left by her father and
carried it on so successfully she could
afford to hire a woman to take care of
her home and she never married.
There is truth, however, in her re-
mark, although it is not entirely true,
for no woman spends an entire morning
eveiy day on only one dish. Still the
question of what proportion of time
300
AMERICAN COOKERY
shall be devoted to the preparing of
meals is a most important one.
The expert who can command good
prices for her services is expected to
prepare her dishes with artistic care;
she usually has helpers to assist in the
work and is, of course, a business
woman. But the expert in Domestic
Science would be careful not to spend
too large a proportion of valuable time
on one dish. She plans her menu to
conform to the limit of time and space,
and with no waste of effort.
The woman who is married and can
have no servant, who must prepare the
meals for the family within a restricted
sum and who, owing to the many duties
that press upon her, must give as small
a proportion of time as possible to that
time-consuming process — preparing a
meal — should this woman expend much
time, if any, on the artistic arrangement
of her food and table?
The good housekeeper always sys-
tematizes her work; and the woman
who does so systematize usually pre-
pares her meals with an artistic insight.
The artistic touch is, after all, only a
certain kind of orderliness, and with
order — "Heaven's first law" — as a foun-
dation, one can work out a simple or
more complicated scheme as she has
opportunity. The conscientious house-
keeper soon acquires a certain facility
in arranging her table and follows in-
stinctively some symmetrical form of
arrangement, whether it be of furniture,
dishes or food. These forms may be
elaborated indefinitely. It is the wise
woman who studies the balance of ad-
justment so that even the expression of
an artistic idea shall fit into the house-
hold scheme.
One may spend nine hours a day on
the meals; or one may spend half that
time; but much time must be spent on
the planning and preparing of meals even
with the most rigid system. That
artistic arrangement should receive some
attention most housekeepers will agree;
and in considering this question only
the housekeeper who is conscientious
and looks upon her occupation as she
would upon a profession counts.
It does pay to arrange table and food
in an artistic manner. The effect upon
the family is agreeable, and every one
knows that an attractive table with
skilfully arranged dishes conduces to
good digestion. This does not take
too much time if the housewife plans
her work efficiently, so that, if only a
few moments can be spent on the art
side, those few moments can be so
filled with concentrated effort that the
result will be most effective. It may
be so planned that one side shall not
take from the other side. As, for in-
stance: the effort for art should not
encroach upon the effort to produce
flavor and tastefulness in the food.
We remember a lady who at church
suppers used to bring wonderful loaves
of cake built in stories made with
flutings of frosting and decorations of
fruits, flowers (artificial) and conven-
tional patterns in various colors ; but one
seldom took more than one taste of these
works of culinary art. The cake was
as tasteless as the famous apples of
Sodom and Gomorrah. For steady home
consumption flavor always stands first
and art second.
In a boys' camp three years ago we
came across a chef who might well
have been a descendant of the old chef
in Quentin Durward. One evening he
made some large round layer cakes, the
tops being decorated with designs in
white frosting that were the work of a
true artist. The edges were outHned
with most delicate traceries and flutings
with well-modeled doves perched here
and there. They were exquisitely de-
signed. Within the ornamental circle
a herd of deer was grouped, the com-
position being particularly well arranged.
One hesitated before destroying such
beauty by the usual process of masti-
cation; and, to tell the truth, the taste
was rather' commonplace, disappointing.
It was a work of art, but as an
ART IN COOKERY
301
appetizer hardly a success. We had
eaten with much more reHsh some blue-
berry pie which he had made in a large
meat pan for the thirty boys present.
The pie had been placed in the center
of the table to be served. The memory
of the flavor of that berry pie still lingers
with pleasing distinctness, as 'well as the
picture of the smiles of satisfaction
mingled with smears of blue on the
faces of the camp boys.
When camp broke up each boy was
presented with an ornamental cake as
large as a pie plate. The boy in our
family had one and for a long time it
was exhibited to admiring friends but
no haste was displayed in eating it.
It became knicked in places where the
boy friends of the family had tested its
possibilities. Little by little it dis-
integrated and finally the remains were
given to the chickens.
Anyone who can combine a culinary
work of art with a flavor that -will make
an article of food disappear in five
minutes is a genius and his work is a
masterpiece. He may not produce a
dish that is historic as well as a work
of art like the celebrated French chef,
but he will acquire a reputation that is
worth having.
The impression of a well-arranged
table with daintily-prepared dishes is
stimulating and leaves a pleasant mem-
ory in the mind, and if the special dish
disappears at once, it should give the
producer much satisfaction. It is proof
that one has achieved a success, has
combined Art with flavor into one
harmonious whole.
It is not easy to produce a dish that
is at the same time a culinary as well
as an artistic success ; and if any woman
thinks it is easy she has never tried it.
But the woman who has tried and
succeeded will agree that the satis-
faction achieved in accomplishment is
worth the trouble.
Art in culinary science is necessarily
of short duration and the time con-
sumed in preparation is long, but each
perfect combination makes one more
success in a series of successes; and
a triumph is a triumph even if it is only
in the preparation of a dish of spinach
and toast.
Lockerbie Street
It must be lonely in Lockerbie Street,
Since the joyous singer has gone away.
There must be a sigh when the children meet
Under the trees to play.
And who will sing them the beautiful lore
That the Children's Poet may sing no more?
But the sun shines on in Lockerbie Street,
Gay as the spirit that lingered there.
The wind laughs out through the shadows fleet
Dashing and debonnaire,
And the old round moon smiles calmly down
Over the roofs and the chimneys brown.
Smile for us still, O Lockerbie Street,
Wistful and brave and true.
Send us back to our worlds to m.eet
Life that your poet knew,
Life that is tender and clear and sweet.
Lockerbie Street, our Lockerbie Street.
Rose Henderson.
Starving Humanity
(Continued from Page 285)
— .9 per cent. This poverty is due
undoubtedly to the fact that most of the
mineral salts of the animal are found in
the bones which we discard from our
diet. Milk contains .7 per cent mineral
matter, white flour .5 per cent, polished
rice .4 per cent. This is the diet of the
factory worker. We see why, being
minerally starved, he seeks to satisfy
this craving for something, he knows not
what, by means of stimulants, as tea,
coffee and beer. If he would use flour
made from the whole of the wheat kernel,
his appetite for mineral salts would be
satisfied to the extent of 1.8 per cent
instead of .5 per cent as found in white
flour. If, instead of the polished rice
usually sold to him, he was encouraged
to eat the unpolished rice kernel, he
would obtain 1 per cent instead of .4
per cent, and his unnatural thirst would
in a measure be obviated.
Now, nuts, fruits, leaf and stem
vegetables are very rich in natural salts.
Spinach contains 2 per cent, cabbage
1 per cent, dates 1.4 per cent, prunes
1.1 per cent, raisins 3.2 per cent, pecans
1.5 per cent, pine nuts 3 per cent.
For this great thirst that grips the
laboring man, and indeed the entire
nation, "there is a reason"; 'tis mineral
starvation. Fruits are peculiarly val-
uable, inasmuch as their acid salts are
digested and become alkaline carbonates
in the blood; and, in combination with
nuts and leaf and stem vegetables, they
supply the great deficiency in the ordi-
nary diet; and, moreover, fully satisfy
the cravings of the system.
Let us now investigate the effects of
the deficiency of any one of the tissue
salts. For example, let us take the
ferrum salts, and examine the effects of
a famine in iron. Hemoglobin is found
to be deficient and consequently oxygen-
ation suffers, and the electrical power of
the blood is lessened. Iron is the
oxydizing agent of the blood. Upon
iron depends the distribution of oxygen
for combustion, but iron is only available
when found in organic molecules.
Anaemia, chlorosis, and marasmus ensue
as a result of this diminished supply.
How shall we make up this deficiency?
Shall we prescribe iron tonics? Bottled
iron tonics are not absorbable, and the
irritating effects of the iron upon the
gastric mucosa are universally recog-
nized ; which contra indicates its use in
many of the very conditions where
badly needed.
Spinach, lettuce, cabbage, prunes,
figs, and strawberries are all very rich
in ferrum salts, but to secure the iron
in a form for absorption, these foods
must be eaten in their natural state.
In cooking them, cabbage for instance,
the iron is set free from the organic
molecule and is as digestible as saw
filings.
What are the effects of a famine in
phosphorus? If it be conceded that
phosphorus is a necessary nerve food, it
follovv^s that the absence of it means
nerve starvation and a consequent pro-
portionate inability to perform any work
requiring nervous energy. With chil-
dren there would be imperfect develop-
ment, a deficiency of the osseous struc-
tures, and increasing nervous debility,
among adults, neurasthenias, and in
child-bearing women, in addition, evi-
dence of direct absorption of the teeth
and alveolar processes.
"The starved nerve tells its tale of
starA^ation through the language of
neuralgia. Aching and enfeebled mus-
cles remind us of slowness of tissue
repair. Eruptions of the skin and
catarrh of the mucous membrane show
diminished nerve power in the tissues.
Decaying and loosening teeth become
evidences of unhealthfulness or the
absorption of the osseous system. Thus
302
STARVING HUMANITY
303
will each tissue unmistakably demon-
strate the condition of starvation in
which it finds itself." (Nunn)
Phosphorus enters largely into the
basic structure of all the tissues, par-
ticularly that of bone and nerve. Which
food products are rich in phosphates?
Legumes (pod foods) are the richest in
phosphates of any foods; especially of
lentils and beans is this true. But
again the objection holds that in order
to render them digestible legumes must
be subjected to prolonged cookery,
which process plays havoc with the
salts, rendering them non-absorbable
and non-assimilable. The same is true
of sea foods which rank high in phos-
phates. Entire wheat, rye and oats are
rich in phosphates, but these are usually
cooked. Eggs contain one-third as much
phosphorus as legumes, but should be
eaten raw in order to obtain the assim-
ilable phosphates. Milk contains one
fifth as much phosphates as legumes, but
milk more often is boiled, coagulating
the proteid molectde, which sets free the
inorganic salts, thus rendering them, as
to the iron and fluorine, unabsorbable ;
as to the phosphates, imassimilable.
Cabbage, spinach, celery, and cauli-
flower rank the same as milk, but should
be partaken of raw. Pine nuts, an
edible nut grown in Sicily, obtainable
on the markets, contains the same
amount of phosphate .salts as legumes,
and, moreover, are easily digestible
and can be eaten raw.
When there is a deflciency of lime
salts the bony structures and teeth
suffer. Mothers' teeth often decay when
this element is scantily supplied in their
food. This salt is readily supplied by
spinach, lettuce, cabbage, raw onion
and asparagus.
Magnesium deflciency means muscle
and bone hunger. Magnesium lends
flexibility to the bones and elasticity to
the muscles; it also neutralizes tissue
acids. It is usually found in combination
with phosphorus. By the use of spinach,
lettuce, cucumber, and pine nuts, you
can readily make up any deficiency of
this salt.
Potassium acts as a solid tissue base.
It is to the muscles and softer tissue
what calcium is to the bones. Its
deficiency means scurvy and rickets.
The richest of any food product in
potassium salts is ripe olives, which
heads the list. Next comes dried chest-
nuts, then potato. All leaf and stem
vegetables are rich in this salt.
One of the most important tissue salts
is organic sodium. It has a strong
affinity for waste phosphoric acid, which
it neutralizes, forming sodium phosphate.
It combines loosely with carbonic di-
oxide. It picks up from the blood waste
sulphuric acid, forming sodium nitrate,
uric acid, forming urate of sodium. Any
deficiency of sodium salts interferes with
tissue respiration. Carbon dioxide accu-
mulates in the tissue cell, resulting in
diseases of suboxidation, as obesity and
rhetimatism. Vital forces are lowered,
and anaemia and tuberculosis may
follow. This salt is readily supplied in
abundance by the use of spinach,
radishes, apples, strawberries, dried or
steamed figs and raw eggs.
Sulphur is found in nail, hair, cuticle
and muscle.
Silica (sand) is present in the enamel
of the teeth, hair, nails, cuticle and all
connective tissue, and probably found
in the sheath of nerve fibres.
Chlorine is a component of hydro-
chloric acid, a constituent of gastric
juice.
The last three salts need give but little
concern, as they are well supplied in
just those foods rich in other salts. To
provide for any deficiency of the prin-
cipal salts is to adequately provide for
the proper amount required of these.
Observe in glancing over the list of
foods most abundant in natural salts,
that they are found in greatest abun-
dance in some form of leaf and stem
vegetables, fruits, and nuts. And
observe also that it is just this class of
foods that can best be eaten without
304
AMERICAN COOKERY
being subjected to some form of cookery.
We herewith append a health salad,
which is merely suggestive of how an
appetizing dish may be provided that at
once, is nutritious, a regulator of the
bowels, and will supply all the tissue
salts. This combination is open to
many modifications that will suggest
themselves to the fertile mind.
Take a portion of raw spinach, lettuce,
celery, carrots, apple, cranberry and
pine nuts. Chop finely the first three,
grate the carrots, chop the apple, add a
few chopped cranberries to afford tart-
ness, stir in the pine nuts, season with
celery salt and serve with mayonnaise
dressing. Spanish onion, ripe olives,
cucumbers or cabbage may be used as
substitutes. Because of the different
colors of the ingredients here is afforded
a splendid chance for garnishing and
decorating.
Some Pretty Salad Garnishes
SALADS may be garnished in num-
bers of ways that add greatly to
their appearance, as well as to their
taste.
A simple garnish for individual por-
tions of salad, may consist of a single
olive, grape, cherry, cranberry, straw-
berry, nut m.eat, tiny radish, date,
marshmallow or a dot of jelly.
Several pretty effects can be obtained
with hard-cooked eggs. Cut in rings,
they look very attractive on the top of a
potato salad. The grated yolks look
pretty on the top of meat or vegetable
salads with an olive or a nut meat in the
center. If something quite elaborate is
desired, pond lilies can be imitated by
cutting the whites in lengthwise strips
to form petals, and using the grated
yolks for the centers.
A garnish of poinsettias may be
imitated by cutting canned pimientoes
into petal-hke strips and arranging them
on the top of a salad. Lobster or
chicken salad looks tempting with this
garnish.
The ring decoration on a salad is a
pretty one. Rings may be cut from
jelly, beets (cold, cooked ones), or pine-
apple. A jelly ring should surround a
sprig of mint, a beet ring a few stalks of
tender asparagus, and pineapple a stalk
of celery.
Green peppers cut in strips make
another garnish.
Several combinations may be made
in garnishing if desired. For instance,
green peppers and pimientoes both
taste and look well together.
One of the prettiest salads, I ever saw,
was made by a famous chef, who called
it Christmas salad. He took a medium
sized white cabbage, cut a generous slice
off the top and scooped out the inside.
On the outside, he peeled off several
leaves to within three inches of the
bottom. What remained of these leaves
was slashed and curled into a fringe.
The center of the cabbage was next
filled with the salad proper, a mixture
of nuts, celery, white grapes, marsh-
mallows and mayonnaise dressing. Then
the garnishing commenced. A dozen
cranberries mounted on toothpicks were
stuck into the cabbage around the
opening. Grated cocoanut was thickly
sprinkled over the top to imitate snow,
and the final touch was a small cluster
of white grapes on the very top.
N.D.D.
--'%S""2^^^
Home Ideas
and
iEcONOMIEvSS'
Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be
paid for at reasonable rates.
New Discoveries
THE latest meeting of the American
Chemical Society brought out a
number of scientific papers con-
taining new discoveries of interest to
housewives.
It was reported, among other matters,
that a most efficient method of removing
iron stains from cloth is a 15 per cent
solution of titanium trichlorid (Ti Clf.)
applied cold to the rust spot. The
reagent is, unfortunately, expensive.
Methods more generally available are
boiling for several minutes in solutions
of potassium acid tartrate (cream of
tartar), tartaric acid, or citric acid.
Especially practical devices are boiling
in the juice of grapefruit, pineapple, or
rhubarb ; or in an infusion of the leaves
and stems of the common begonia.
All these have the advantage over the
familiar hydrocloric or oxalic acids that
they are less apt to injure fabric or color.
For cleaning silverware by the new
electrical method, sodium carbonate
(washing soda) proves to be slightly
more efficient than the bicarbonate
(cooking soda). Also, aluminum for the
electrode is a little more efficient than
the customary zinc.
A study of the action of acid foods on
fifteen standard makes of enamelled
ware showed a solution in the food of
both lead and antimony. The lead, in
general, amounted to less than two parts
in a million ; but one sample of cranberry
sauce showed seventy times this amount
of antimony. Apparently, then, it is,
on the whole, better to use some other
sort of cooking utensil for very sour
viands.
"Ready made" Hamburg steak also
proves something of a risk. Twenty
samples bought in the open market
showed, in more than half, above ten
million bacteria to the cubic centimeter,
about twenty times as many as in fairly
decent milk. Meat ground to order,
better still, ground at home, seems to be
the part of wisdom.
On the other hand, a detailed exam-
ination of some hundreds of manufac-
tured foods showed that reputable
producers, now-a-days, virtually never
adulterate or misbrand any of their
goods, while *'the adulteration that
represents a serious menace to health is
practically non-existent."
But the most suggestive paper of the
meeting, from the point of view of the
housekeeper, was an elaborate study of
the "staling" of bread. It is well known
that the spongy texture of good bread is
due to the bubbles of carbon dioxid gas
formed by the yeast. It is also well
known that all hot gases contract greatly
on cooling, and that carbon dioxid in
particular is very much more soluble in
cold water than in hot.
When, therefore, bread fresh from
the oven is cooled, the carbon dioxid of
the open spaces shrinks to much less
than its former volume, while at the
same time this diminished quantity is
still further reduced by solution in the
moisture of the bread. The result is a
partial vacuum within the loaf. Air is,
therefore, sucked into the bread to fill
the vacant space.
305
306
AMERICAN COOKERY
It now appears that the stahng of
bread is caused by the action of the
oxygen of this air on the proteins of the
flour. But if the bread be kept in an
atmosphere of carbonic acid, this gas
will be drawn in instead of air, and no
such action will occur.
In practice, it is found sufficient merely
to cool the bread in the carbon dioxid.
The loaf then becomes filled with the
inert gas, which only very gradually
diffuses out and is replaced by air.
Bread thus treated, instead of staling
in a few hours, remains fresh for two or
three weeks.
The idea of the inventor is to apply
the method commercially on a large
scale, using the waste carbon dioxid
from beer brewing. But it is obviously
"up to" some ingenious housekeeper to
work out the idea in the kitchen.
Human Nutrition
A well known study of the nutrition
of a human infant showed that a thriving
youngster of nine months was using
seven-eighths of his food for his day's
"work" and doing his growing on the
remaining eighth. On that eighth, then,
depends his proper development. Now
comes one of the latest papers from the
Carnegie Nutrition Laboratory in Boston
to show that the effort in crying, fretting,
and tossing about in discomfort may
add as much as a fifth to the child's
daily "work." In other words, the
child may waste in useless pain more
nutriment than he needs to grow on.
Naturally, having spent this food on
"work," he will not use it for develop-
ment. And the moral is obvious.
Manufacture of Salt
A new process is being introduced
into the manufacture of salt for removing
the barium chlorid from the brine.
Barium chlorid is decidedly poisonous,
but heretofore it has been practicable to
remove it completely from only a portion
of each charging. This portion becomes
the "dairy and table salt." The rest.
unfit for human food, goes to freezing
ice cream and other coarser uses. By
the new process, virtually all the barium
is eliminated from salt of all grades.
E. T. B.
* * *
Scents That Cling
WITH Autumn weather comes the
need for getting out of "home
storage" the heavier garments that were
packed away in the warm days of Spring.
Fortunate is the household in which the
mother gets at them betimes, and gives
them a good sun-and-wind bath before
persuading husband and children ^ to
wear them; for to many patient souls
the necessity for coming in contact with
the heavy reek of tar-balls is little other
than misery.
On looking over a magazine devoted
to women-wants, and seeing a large
receptacle of "tar-paper" illustrated,
as a desirable cover for heavier tailored
suit or party-wraps, one is apt to wonder
how a personality surrounded with an
"aura" of such odor will be likely to
affect one's shopping, dinner, or theater-
party companions. It is odd how women
who insist on double doors between
kitchen and living-room, lest odors pene-
trate, — and who scoff at the idea of
using any but odorless disinfectants for
household purposes, will yet run amuck
when it comes to be a question of "moth-
balls," — the perfume from which will
cling for months to a trunk or box, —
and much longer to garments of wool !
While Autumn is not the season for
packing away woolens, it must often be
made the time for taking the wise reso-
lution to eliminate one household nui-
sance by thereafter packing heavy gar-
ments of the sort attacked by moths in
sealed receptacles of heavy, ww-scented
paper. Many a household will be
happier for it.
Smooth Sauces
Gravies or sauces thickened by pouring
hot liquid of any sort on ''roux,'" (fat or
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
307
butter and flour blended over the fire)
are apt to lump more quickly than
sauces where cold liquid is poured in and
allowed to come gradually to boiling
point with steady stirring. The lumpi-
ness is caused by too rapid expansion of
the starch cells in the flour, and is in
direct ratio to the heat in the rdux and
liquid at the moment of combination.
If inconvenient to cool the liquid slightly
before adding it to the cooked thickening,
simply take the pan containing the
latter from the fire, and allow it to cool
for a minute, before stirring in the liquid.
Then return to the fire, and stir to
smooth, bubbling creaminess.
About Tomatoes
DISCOVERED: First, that even
counting in the initial cost of the
jars, — putting up one's own tomatoes
in glass costs no more than buying the
cheapest grade of "tin-canned" ones at
the grocery store; while the expense,
after one has a stock of glass jars, is
absurdly tiny.
Second: That the aforesaid glass jars,
of good standard makes, can be bought,
one or two at a time, at the five and ten
cent stores, as needed, thus making it
possible to lay in a stock by degrees.
Third: That if there were no other
advantage in putting up one's own
tomatoes, it would pay, in the matter of
convenience; as one can have part of
one's supply in pint jars, instead of the
quarts. The average grocer seldom or
never carries anything but the full-sized
cans of tomatoes, and a can once opened
has to be used up at once, though only
half of it may be required; but one's own
little pint jars hold just enough for
sauce, or to add to soup, and .the con-
venience of them, to say nothing of the
far superior quality, is beyond telling.
* * * A. D.
Glass Shelves
WHERE it is desirable and where
the shelves of the cupboard are
deep and high enough to admit of it, a
very nice auxiliary shelf may be easily
constructed of a piece of plate glass,
simply by standing it upon four glass
candlesticks of same design and size.
A small shelf like those used for bath
rooms will very nicely hold a row o^
tumblers or goblets, and really adds that
much to the capacity of the closet with-
out seeming to crowd things. The shelf
and supports being glass, they are hardly
noticeable, and because they are glass,
they are more suitable for holding glass
things. The idea may be particularly
adapted to a cabinet meant for the
display of choice pieces of bric-a-brac,
for in those cases the shelves are usually
rather far apart and the articles to be
shown are often very small and dainty
and would look much better on a smaller
shelf.
IN a time of serious illness we learned
one lesson as to quietness. We
always thought we were very quiet and
careful people in moving about the house,
but necessity brought to our notice
considerable noisy shutting of doors and
heavy-heeled walking. A simple push-
ing shut of a door, instead of turning the
knob to bring the bolt into place, makes
a great deal of unnecessary noise, and we
have found the only way to have quiet-
ness in case of need, is to have it at all
times, by forming careful habits in these
little things. If they are not formed
and adhered to at all times, it will be
absolutely impossible to get results when
the need does come. A. J.
* * *
Burnt Edges for Place Cards
INSTEAD of gilding the edges of
place cards, or bordering them with
double lines of black or red, or a wider
wash of color, a new fashion is to simply
burn the edges until they are charred to
a soft brown.
For this purpose use a lighted match,
or a taper. A slightly wavering edge of
color that sets off the card when placed
on the table is thus produced, more
308
AMERICAN COOKERY
distinctive than if a pale violet or blue is
used to match or harmonize with the
water color decoration upon the card.
Some recently seen,having burnt edges,
were decorated by a young girl, with
violets for the ladies and butterflies for
the men. The butterfly cards were
especially unique because they were
applied to the cards. The butterflies
were first drawn and colored on water
color paper. When cut out the reverse
sides of the wings were painted; then
the bodies were pasted upon the crease
at the left-hand corner, and the wings
bent up as if the butterflies had just
alighted. The antennae were painted
upon the card, but also might be simu-
lated by being made with black thread;
a short piece being pasted under the
body and extending in two ends. This
is not exactly art, but more of a toy,
such as are often used for favors and
place cards. Such things are pretty
work for young girls and people who
are semi-invalids. J- D- C.
* * *
Flower Holders
WILL you please tell me what
kind of flower holders you use?
Such charmingly arranged flowers I
never saw." This from a flattering
friend, whom I had kept waiting a few
minutes and who had time to view my
handiwork. I was glad to have her
appreciate it, for I had had such a good
time over it myself. And my explana-
tion dehghted her so much that I pass
my idea on to other flower lovers.
There are numerous flower holders in
the shops, and I have tried many of
them. But better than shop ones, I
flnd these. I fill a vase, bowl or jar
about two-thirds full of sand, then put
in the water. In this sand I stick the
flowers, one at a time, getting just the
effect I want. They stand as nature
meant them to — each blossom or cluster
individually lovely. A low bowl with
pansies is now on my little carved table
— and a small green jar of golden butter-
cups here on my desk. The flowers seem
to keep fresh longer in the sand, and
besides the sand gives weight to a vase
or jar and fewer upsettings occur.
This special sand is a souvenir of a
happy day at the seashore. I washed
it several times to get the salt out, and
it promises to be a **joy forever." E.B.R.
* * %
For Christmas Presents
The notion of preparing jellies, mar-
malades and various sweet mixtures in
the summer and storing them away for
use as Christmas presents is by no means
a new one, but there are methods of
doing them up to give them a festive
air that I have never seen noticed any-
where. For instance one country woman
sent her friends some jars over which
firm white paper had been neatly pasted
and on the top was her monogram done
in blue with a tiny gold outline. Jars of
goodies are always a delight, but the
attractiveness of this was a surprise and
made the gift additionally acceptable.
A red and gold monogram on a currant
jelly jar is sure to please and the cunning
Httle strips of holly printed, paper
ribbon are also good for tumblers of
red jelly. The making of monograms
at home is interesting, for one can
experiment with cutting out a cardboard
stencil until the desired effect is obtained.
Children are often very quick about
making such things and their results
are sometimes surprisingly successful.
For a Child's Party
A pretty device for a child's party is
to serve the ice cream in blocks and to
cut out of the middle of each a piece,
replacing it with a tiny bowl, made from
a piece of cardboard turned up at the
corners and having a lighted candle
standing in it. This can be easily
managed by dropping a bit of melting
wax in the bottom of the bowl to hold the
candle upright. The candles should be j
lighted at the last moment and the
cream served immediately with the lights
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
309
in the chandeliers turned out. Any one
who has seen the "illuminated ice cream"
served on ocean steamers will remember
what a fairy-land effect this produces and
the children who have never seen it are
sure to be wildly enthusiastic about it.
For the Kitchen Table
When the mistress of the house, the
cook, or whoever happens to use the
kitchen table most, is tall and the table
is too low for her, an easy way of
heightening it and avoiding back aches
is to take four common door stops of the
type that have a screw at one end and a
piece of rubber on the other and screw
one in the bottom of each of the table
legs. This is far the quickest way; but
we have found a most satisfactory and
a still more stable method is to get four
heavy blocks of exactly the right height
and hollow out the centre of them a little
at the top, letting the table legs stand in
them. If you happen to cut down a
medium-sized tree, sections of this are
exactly right for purposes of experiment.
Creole Dishes
At one of the largest and most famous
of New Orleans hotels, we were hunting
through the breakfast menu for the
Creole dishes for which that city is
renowned. When * ' Creole cream cheese' '
greeted our eyes we at once pounced
upon it and were amazed to find that it
was nothing more nor less than a mould
of carefully loppered milk served with
cream and sugar upon it as a breakfast
food. Professor Metchnikoff of the
Pasteur Institute has proved that sour
milk is not only wholesome but positively
beneficial and it is so simple and appetiz-
ing, leaving a clean fresh taste in the
mouth, that we have been delighted to
add it to our own list of possible break-
fast dishes. M. V.
* * *
The Nasturtium Tea Porch
I am a teacher of Domestic Science.
This last spring I decided I wanted
to earn some siunmer money. I
thought of many plans, but for one
reason or another, they did not prove
feasible, until one day the idea of the
Nasturtitmi Tea Porch came to me.
I had heard of "tea-rooms," "tea-
houses," so v/hy not a "tea-porch?"
The porch was ideally situated a little
off the main street, and Hterally in the
tree tops, a sort of Peter Pan arrange-
ment — for we had the upper apartment
of a two story house.
I had stored away a box of Japanese
stencils, among them a nasturtium
pattern. This I used until it was almost
threadbare, printing 100 yellow tint
sheets, on which I wrote a personal
invitation as follows: "Miss X invites
you to visit the Nasturtium Tea Porch
from 3 to 6 P. M. Iced and hot tea,
lemonade, ginger ale and homemade
cakes and cookies will be served."
I bought a plain pine board kitchen
table which was enameled black, and
then stenciled with a large nasturtium
stencil, in bright reds, and yellow and
green. I used the table uncovered and
it was much admired.
I used the plain green Japanese
Sedjii ware, which makes any food or
drink placed upon it look attractive.
I had a gift of six glass straws, with
green glass bowls. These added greatly
to the enjoyment of an iced mint
lemonade, or ginger ale.
The tabulation of expenses for equip-
ping the Tea Porch is given below :
100 letters and delivery
Table
$1.50
2.25
100 paper napkins
2 tea-pots (individual)
2 dozen doilies
.10
.40
.30
6 iced-tea glasses
.30
$4.85
The Tea Porch was equipped for less
than five dollars, paid for itself, and
gave me a fair profit and the satisfaction
of carrying out an idea. A. C. H.
THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Query No. 3734. — "Receipe for Souffle
Potatoes or fried potatoes that puff like toy
balloons."
Souffle Potatoes
Pare smooth, even-shaped potatoes,
cut them in thin slices and let soak in
cold water about half an hour. Dry
on a cloth and let cook in fat that is
not very hot until soft, skim them from
this fat and set to cook in fat at a
higher temperature until delicately
browned when some, at least, of the
potatoes should be well-puffed. Not all
the slices will puff.
Query No. 3735. — "Recipe for Preserving
Citron for table use also a recipe for Preserving
Citron for use in cake and plum puddings."
Citron Melon Preserve
Cut the melons in quarters and the
quarters in smaller pieces and remove
the rind, then cut into such shapes as
wished. Cover the prepared melon
with cold water, adding two table-
spoons of table salt to each quart of
cold water; and let stand over night.
Drain, rinse in cold water, drain again
and let cook, till just tender, in boiling
water. Drain again and weigh. For
each pound of material allow three-
fourths a pound of sugar, half an ounce
of ginger stems and one lemon. Slice
the lemons and discard the seeds;
slice or crush the ginger stems and let
cook separately in boiling water until
tender. Make a syrup of the sugar
and the water drained from the lemons
and the ginger; skim, add the melon
and let cook until plump and trans-
parent; skim the melon from the syrup.
To the syrup add the lemon and ginger
and let cook until a rich syrup is formed ;
add the citron, heat to boiling and
store in jars. Glass or earthen jars may
be used.
Citron for Cake, etc.
The citron used for cake and puddings
is not prepared from the citron melon
used for preserves, though pieces of
citron drained from the syrup may be
used in place of the citron of commerce.
Query No. 3736.— "What should Food Cost
per person per week for a family living com-
fortably, having fruit and vegetables in season,
or what proportion of an income of from
$30.00 to $60.00 should be spent for food?"
Cost of Raw Food Per Person
Mrs. Ellen Richards in "The Cost of
Living," published in 1905, says:"Only
when the income of a family of five
individuals, including servants, rises
above four thousand dollars a year
should an expenditure of fifty cents
(per day) per person for raw food
materials be looked upon with com-
placency." To-day (October) an egg
for breakfast costs .05, an orange, .06,
thin cream for the cereal and coffee
.10, which with the one item of .38
for two chops or .25 or .30 for a bit of
sirloin steak for dinner brings up the
amount to more than .50, before the
310
QUERIES AND ANSWERS
311
list of materials for two of the meals
is fairly begun. Probably $1.00, to-day,
will not go as far as .50 in 1905. How-
ever, at the present time there are
more people than formerly who know
how to provide a satisfactory table
without dependence upon choice and
expensive cuts of meat. Mrs. Richards
also says: ''It is not the food actually
eaten that costs so excessively, it is
that wasted by poor cooking, by exces-
sive quantity, and by purchase out of
season, when the price is out of all
proportion to its value."
Query No. 3737. — "Recipes for Rum
Omelet , Cheese Balls for Soup and Potato
Dumplings."
Rum Omelet
6 eggs
3 tablespoonfuls pow-
dered sugar
1-4 teaspoonful salt
4 tablespoonfuls rum or
lemon juice and water
1 tablespoonful butter
^ cup hot Jamaica rum
The ingredients may be used in
making either a French or a puffy
omelet. For the first, beat the eggs
with a spoon until a full spoonful can
be lifted; beat in the sugar, salt, the
rum or lemon juice; melt the butter in
the hot pan (not hot enough to burn
the butter) turning the pan to oil the
whole surface; pour in the egg mixture,
shake and tip the pan resting on the
hot stove lid until the mixture is nearly
"set" throughout; roll and turn upon
a' hot platter, pour over the half
cup of rum, made warm over the tea
ketth, light it and send to the table
at once.
If a puffy omelet is desired, beat the
whites unt'l very light and the yolks
until thick; add the sugar, salt, rum
or lemon juice to the yolks, mix and
pour over the whites; cut and fold the
two together and turn upon a hot,
buttered pan; set the pan into a very
moderate oven until the mixture is
set throughout (about half an hour)
cut across the top, fold at the cutting,
turn onto a hot dish, pour over the
rum and light as before.
Cheese Balls for Soup
3 tablespoonfuls con- \\ cup flour
somme or milk ll egg unbeaten
1^ teaspoonfuls butter [2 tablespoonfuls grated
I teaspoonful salt | Parmesan cheese
Add the butter and salt to the liquid;
heat to the boiling point directly
over the fire, sift in the floin-, and stir
to a smooth paste that forms a ball;
turn into a cool dish, beat in the egg
thoroughly, then the cheese; drop in
round pieces from the tip of a teaspoon
into hot fat; fry as doughnuts, and
drain on soft paper; pass for each to
serve himself as they soften quickly
in hot soup.
Query No. 3738. — "Recipe for Potato
Dumplings."
Potato Dumplings
1^ cups flour 13 teaspoons butter
5 teaspoonfuls baking || cup riced potato
powder |1 egg beaten light
I teaspoonful salt || cup milk (about)
Sift together the flour, baking powder
and salt; work the butter into the
mixture; mix the milk, beaten egg and
potato thoroughly and use in stirring
the flour mixture to a dough. Turn
upon a floured board and knead slightly ;
roll into a sheet and cut into rounds.
Set close together in a buttered steamer
and let steam over a kettle of boiling
water or meat about flfteen minutes.
Do not open the steamer during the
cooking, nor allow the water to stop
boiling:.
Query No. 3739. — "What name is given to
Pie when it is served with ice cream?"
Pie a la Mode
When pie — usually apple or blue-
berry — is served with ice-cream above
it, it is called Pie a la Mode.
Query No. 3740. — "At a Luncheon when are
Finger Bowls set on the table?"
Finger Bowls at Luncheon
When fruit is served as the first
course of the luncheon, finger bowls are
set in place when the table is laid;
otherwise the finger bowls are not set
312
AMERICAN COOKERY
upon the table until the serving of the
sweets.
Query No. 3741. — "When are Baked Apples
served?"
Time for Serving Baked Apples
Baked apples, either hot or cold, are
served as a first or last course at Break-
fast. They are also served as a dessert
with sugar and cream at luncheon or
dinner. They are also included in
supper dishes.
Query No. 3742. — "What should be served
with the Meat Course at a Luncheon?"
What to Serve with Meat at
Luncheon
A short answer cannot be written
out for the above question. What is
appropriate with one meat dish may
not be so with another. Also the
season of the year and the social status
of the family would influence the choice.
A general rule might be, serve one
starchy vegetable and one green vege-
table.
Query No. 3743. — "Where may Food Exhibits
for Schools be procured?"
Food Exhibits for Schools
Food exhibits for schools are put up
by manufacturers of food products
whose specialty is a food or a food
adjunct that may be put up in an
attractive form for exhibition, also it
must be such an article as may be
preserved in good condition for an
indefinite period. Some manufacturers
of baking powders and dealers in spices
prepare such exhibits.
Query No. 3744. — "Recipe for Caramels.
Caramels
2| cups sugar
1 cup red label Karo
^ cup butter
2| cups rich milk
1 teaspoonful vanilla
1 cup English walnut
meats
Set the sugar, karo, butter and one
cup of the milk over the fire and stir
constantly; after the mixture has boiled
a few minutes, gradually stir in the rest
of the milk. Stir occasionally while
continuing the cooking to about 248° F.
(hard ball). Add the vanilla and nuts
a,nd turn into two well-buttered pans.
When nearly cold cut in cubes.
Query No. 3745. — "Recipe for Spice Cake
suitable for a high altitude."
Spice Cake (high altitude)
i cup butter
f cup sugar
3 egg yolks
i cup milk
1^ cups flour
1 2 teaspoonfuls baking
I powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
^ teaspoonful mace
\j teaspoonful cloves
3 egg-whites
Cream the butter, beat in the sugar,
the yolks, beaten light, the milk, flour
sifted with the baking powder and
spices and, lastly, the egg-whites beaten
very light. Bake in a loaf about 45
minutes, in a sheet about 25 minutes.
Query No. 3746. — "Recipe for Cheese
Muffins suitable for high altitudes."
Cheese Mufifins (high altitude)
A recipe for cheese muffins was given
on page 536 of the February 1916
issue of the magazine. If this recipe
should not work successfully, we will
suggest something different. Possibly
it might be advisable to cut out one
tablespoonful of the shortening.
Query No. 3747. — "Recipes for use of
Canned Shrimps, Shad, and Turtle."
Canned Shad, with Mushrooms
Remove all bones possible without
breaking up the fish over much. Set
the fish in a shallow au gratin dish.
For a can of fish, peel about eight
fresh mushroom caps, and saute these
in a tablespoonful of butter ; add a cup of
thin cream and let simmer six minutes;
season with salt and pepper. Pour the
mushrooms and cream over the fish,
cover and set into the oven for a few
minutes. Serve very hot.
Canned Shad Croquettes
^ cup butter
I cup flour
1 cup milk or stock
I cup cream
|1 egg, beaten light
1 1 teaspoonful salt
\l teaspoonful paprika
12 cups flaked shad
ADVERTISEMENTS
The Thanksgiving Dessert
How all eyes brighten when
they see Grandma's mince pie!
It is a tempting sight, giving
to the home coming an appetizing reminder of past Thanksgiving feasts. Made with Crisco
a mince pie is a real delicacy. The lower crust is as tender as the flaky brown top that covers
it. Just as good and wholesome as it looks, it is easily digested.
(risco
^. FopFivring-Foi'ShorleniDa
^h»«'- /b/ Cake Making
4 tart apples
% cupful raisins
% cupful currants
Use Crisco for shortening if you wish the lightest, most delicious pastry you ever ate.
Crisco is an all vegetable product, having neither odor nor taste. It is the cream of
edible oil, pure and delicate and gives only richness to foods.
Crisco Mince Pie
In Making Both Pastry and Filling Use Accurate Level Measurements
for Pastry
IK cupfuls flour 1 teaspoonful salt M cupful Crisco 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls water
Sift the flour and salt and cut the Crisco into the flour with two knives until it is finely
divided. Then add the water sparingly, mixing it with a knife through the dry materials.
Form into a dough, roll on a floured board to about K inch in thickness. Use a light
motion in handling the rolling pin, and roll from the center outward. The Crisco should
be of such consistency that when scooped out with a spoon it rounds up egg-shaped.
In making pastry it is advisable to use pastry flour. Brush over the lower crust with a
little beaten egg white before adding the mince meat. (The egg forms a hard surface
between the crust and filling but does not prevent crUst from baking properly.) Bake
in hot oven.
For Filling
1 tablespoonful chopped citron ^ teaspoonful nutmeg
X cupful Crisco J4 teaspoonful cloves
}4 teaspoonful cinnamon 3 tablespoonfuls sugar
34 cupful cider
Chop apples, raisins, currants, citron
and Crisco together until quite fine.
Add spices, sugar and cider. Mix well
together. Cover closely, and, to ripen,
let stand several hours before using.
(If desired, in place of the cider, one
tablespoonful brandy and ^ cupful
sherry may be used.)
Send for "The Whys of Cooking'*
Many housewives are thankful, among
other things, for the household helps
they have found in Janet McKenzie
Hill's new book "The Whys of Cook-
ing". Many of your own perplexing
problems will doubtless be found
among the questions she asks and an-
swers in this handsome addition to the
Crisco Library. It contains 150 new
recipes and the interesting Story of
Crisco. Bound and illustrated in color.
Makes a fine gift book. We will send
it to you for five 2-cent stamps. Worth
much more. Write Dept. A-11,
The Procter & Gamble
Co., Cincinnati, O.
4
I
Sisco'l
O'/'^/f/,
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
313
314
AMERICAN COOKERY
Melt the butter; in it cook the flour;
add the liquid and stir until boiling;
add the egg and stir and cook until the
egg is "set"; add about two cups of
fish freed from all bones, mix lightly
and turn on a plate. When cold form
into croquettes. A ball is the shape
from which all others are evolved.
Roll in soft, sifted bread crumbs,
cover with an egg beaten and diluted
with about four tablespoonfuls of milk,
and again roll in crumbs. When ready
to fry, roll the croquettes again on the
board to remove superfluous crumbs.
Fry about one minute in deep fat.
Drain on soft paper. Serve at once.
Canned shrimps broken in pieces make
good croquettes.
Canned Shrimp Salad, No. 1
Use one can of shrimps. Remove
the black thread running through the
shrimps arid bits of shell, if present, and
let chill thoroughly. Also let chill two
or three hard-cooked eggs. Break the
shrimps in two or three pieces, each;
cut the eggs in thin slices. Dispose the
shrimps and eggs on a bed of heart-
leaves of lettuce. Pour French dressing
over the whole and serve at once.
For the dressing stir half a cup of olive
-oil, four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half
a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of paprika and a teaspoonful
or more of scraped onion pulp until
thickened slightly and well blended.
If preferred the dressing may be poured
over the eggs and shrimps and, after
these are chilled and well seasoned, the
dressing may be drained off, the eggs
and shrimps set on heart-leaves of
lettuce and the whole garnished with
mayonnaise dressing. Shad, tuna fish,
salmon etc., may be used in place of
the shrimps.
Canned Shrimp Salad, No. 2.
Set part of a head of choice cabbage
in ice-water to chill. Drain, dry on a
cloth and cut in very fine shreds. Make
a layer of the] prepared cabbage on
serving dish; set shrimps and eggs,
prepared as above, on the cabbage
and pour French or mayonnaise dressing
over all. Or pour the dressing over the
shrimps and cabbage and garnish with
the eggs, sliced or cut in eighths, length-
wise of the egg. Capers may be sprinkled
over the whole. Shad and other canned
fish may replace the shrimps.
Clear Green Turtle Soup
Have ready five cups of rich broth,
made of beef and chicken or veal,
flavored with celery, onion, parsley,
carrot and two or three leaves of sweet
basil, if available. The broth must be
freed of all fat. To this add the liquid
from a can of clear green turtle (the
part of young turtles adjoining the
shell) and the slightly beaten whites
of two eggs, with the crushed shells,
and the thin yellow rind of half a
lemon. Stir constantly until the liquid
boils up vigorously, let simmer five
minutes, then draw to a cooler part of
the range to settle. Strain through a
napkin wrung from hot water. Add the
green turtle, cut in small cubes, and
reheat without boiling, when it is ready
to serve. If desired, at the last moment
before serving add three or four table-
spoonfuls of Madeira wine. The soup
is often served without clarifying with
the whites of eggs.
Query No. 3748. — "Kindly publish recipes
for the use of Green Peppers."
Uses for Green Peppers
.Shredded green peppers are a wel-
come addition to almost any salad, ,,
whether it be composed of green salad .■
plants or cooked vegetables, fish or 'S
meat. Put into the pickle jar, the ^^fl
pungent varieties are an aid in the
preservation of the pickles. A green
or red pepper of any variety, cut in
pieces if large, is good in any variety of
stew or ragout and fine-chopped peppers
are relished in corned beef or other
variety of hash. Sweet peppers stuffed
ADVERTISEMENTS
So
easy to wash
J
And so easy to \ee§ clean!
Food does not burn in Pyrex. It cannot absorb grease
nor odors. It does not crack, chip nor craze — even in the
hottest oven. Nothing can penetrate its polished surface.
No speck remains unseen. Think how all this reduces the
drudgery of dishwashing.
PYREX
Transparent
Oven-Ware
TRADC MARK REG.
Has the ixame on every piece
Use Pyrex three times a day — for every meal. Bake in Pyrex- Serve
in Pyrex- Practically everything that is baked in the oven is better and
more quickly baked in Pyrex-^— baked apples, shirred eggs, meat loaf, bread,
pies, cakes, all casserole dishes and puddings — in fact most of the daily
household dishes. As one woman wrote us "I have Pyrexed my kitchen."
Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 15c to large casseroles at ^2.
Dealers in house- wares everywhere sell Pyrex- Ask them for booklet.
CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave.
CORNING, N. Y., U. S. A. Established 1868
Buy advertised Goods
Do not accept substitutes
315
316
AMERICAN COOKERY
with meat, fish, rice etc., are considered
a choice entree.
Green Peppers, Stuffed
3 green peppers 4 cooked mushrooms
1 slice mild onion | teaspoonful parsley
1 tablespoonful butter | cup raw sausage
1 tablespoonful cooked I teaspoonful salt
ham I cup soft bread crumbs
1 tablespoonful flour ^ cup butter, melted
^ cup broth f cup cracker crumbs
Put the peppers in boiHng water;
after two or three minutes remove and
with a cloth rub off the outer skin;
cut each in halves, lengthwise, and
remove seeds and veins. Chop fine
the onion, ham, mushrooms and parsley.
Melt the butter, add the chopped in-
gredients and stir a few minutes;
add the flour, stir until blended, then
add the broth and stir until boiling;
add the sausage and salt; stir until
well mixed, then let cook about ten
minutes, stirring occasionally; add the
bread crumbs and use to fill the half-
peppers. Mix the cracker crumbs
through the melted butter and spread
over the mixture in the peppers. Bake
until the crumbs are browned.
Oysters Scalloped in Green
Peppers
Cut green peppers in such a manner
that they will form a receptacle or
case for cooking. Pour boiling, salted
water over the peppers and let cook
three minutes. Drain and set into a
baking dish. Fill the peppers with
alternate layers of oysters seasoned
with salt and paprika and buttered
cracker crumbs. Have the last layer
buttered crumbs. Let bake about
fifteen minutes. Creamed fish, oysters
or chicken may be used to fill the
peppers. Cover with buttered crumbs
and bake until the crumbs are browned.
The pepper is to be eaten with the
filling.
Green Peppers Stuffed with Rice
and Onions
Prepare the peppers as above. For
six peppers have ready about one cup
and a half of cream or tomato sauce,
half a cup of rice, blanched and cooked
tender and three mild onions boiled
tender. Cut the onions in bits and
mix with about one-third of the sauce.
Fill the onions with alternate layers
of the prepared onions and rice. Cover
the top with buttered cracker crumbs
(one-third cup butter to one cup crumbs) .
Let bake until the crumbs are browned.
Turn the rest of the sauce around the
peppers and serve at once.
Strange but True
Everybody can share the delight
which the Sacred Heart Review provides
in this convincing tale of the philo-
sophical professor:
"It is a strange thing," said the pro-
fessor. "I was shaved this morning by
a man who really is, I suppose, a little
above being a barber. I know of my
own knowledge that he is an alumnus
of one of the leading American colleges;
that he studied in Heidelberg, after-
ward, and spent several years in other
foreign educational centers. I know,
also of my own knowledge, that he has
contributed scientific articles to our
best magazines and has numbered among
his intimate friends men of the highest
social and scientific standing in Europe
and America. And yet," soliloquized
the professor, "he can't shave a man
decently. ' '
"By Jove!" explained young Rounder,
in astonishment. "What is he a barber
for, with all those accomplishments?"
"Oh, he isn't a barber," said the pro-
fessor, yawning. "You see, I shaved
myself this morning."
"Bang!" went the rifles at the ma-
noeuvres. "Oo-oo!" screamed the pretty
girl — a nice, decorous, surprised little
scream. She stepped backward into the
arms of a young man. "Oh!" said she,
blushing. "I was frightened by the
rifles . I beg your pardon. " " Not at all, "
said the young man. "Let's go over and
watch the artillery." — Tit- Bits.
ADVERTISEMENTS
A Waffle Recipe Worth Keeping
4 level teaspoonfuls RYZON;
2 level cups (>i lb.) flour; Yi level
teaspoonf ul salt ; 2 eggs ; 1 j^ cups
(^ pint) milk; 4 tablespoonfuls
melted butter; maple syrup.
Mix flour with RYZON
and salt, and sift them into
a bowl. Beat yolks of eggs,
add butter and milk. Add
this mixture gradually to
dry ingredients, beating
thoroughly. When well
mixed, fold in the stiffly
beaten egg whites. Pour
from a pitcher into the cen-
ter of a hot, well-greased
waffle iron. Other fat may
be used in place of butter,
but the waffles will not
brown as well.
You are sure to get excel-
lent results from any good
baking recipe if you use
THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER
A long-felt want is filled by the RYZON
Baking Book, the first accurate baking manual
ever produced. From the recipes of 10,000
women the best were taken, thoroughly tested
and measurements standardized. The
RYZON Baking Book is priced at $1.00,
unless obtained through your grocer. If he
cannot supply it, send $1.00, for which we
will mail you the RYZON Baking Book and
a 35c one-pound can of RYZON, postpaid.
Satisfaction guaranteed.
GENERALClHEMieAL^Q
FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK
10, 18 and
35 cents
RYZON is made
with a new and better
phosphate.
Man cannot live
without phosphates in
his food.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
317
ii =: iiSi ill i » I
^ilsiilifilllillilll!
;aiiiilliii»H
^^^ool^
True Food Values and Their Low Costs,
By W. S. BiRGE, M.D., 12 mo.
Cloth, Net $.50; Sully and Klein-
teich, New York.
The author tells how to simplify the
art of living so as to cut the cost and
get one's money's worth, yet be physi-
cally efficient. No important phase
of the food question is left untouched.
Food values are carefully analyzed, and
the proper proportion of foods dis-
cussed. The art of wholesome cooking
is set forth in a way that many an
expensive cook book fails to do.
A plainer, simpler and more sensible
presentation of food value can not
possibly be found in the same space.
The entire contents are readable, read-
ily grasped and comprehended by the
average mind. This is saying much of
a book of this kind, many of which are
written by chemists and so called food
experts. It is not unpleasant to come
across once in a while a writer who
recognizes the appetite and the part it
has played and always will play in the
way of wholesome nutrition. This
book will please and satisfy many
readers because it is within their grasp.
A Course in Household Ar^5, By Loretto
Basil Duff, Part I, cloth, pp. xvi+
301 Net $1.10, Whitcomb & Bar-
rows ; Boston, Mass.
In this book, each topic has been
treated more fully than in any of the
many text-books already available. The
reason is given for every method or
process employed. Many authorities
have been consulted, in order to give
the latest and most trustworthy infor-
mation. Clearness and accuracy have
not been sacrificed to brevity.
The recipes given are simple, and
suitable for use by beginners of any
grade, making the book desirable for
work in the grammar school.
Designed primarily for beginners, the
lessons have, through a teaching exper-
ience of several years, proved satis-
factory in grammar, secondary, and
higher classes. The use of the book as
a text for the pupil is especially recom-
mended for high and normal schools.
While instruction in Home Economics
by an untrained teacher is a practice
to be abandoned at the earliest moment
possible, it is employed in some com-
munities that are feeling their way
towards the introduction of this subject.
If such a policy must be pursued, '*A
Course in Household Arts" will do
much to train the teacher as she pre-
pares the lessons.
Here, evidently is a thoroughly and
conscientiously prepared text book. The
lessons have been tried out and improved
by use for many years in the Boston
Schools of Cookery and elsewhere.
Teachers of Household Arts will find
needful instruction and help in a work
like this.
Clothing for Women, By Laura I.
Baldt, 7 colored plates. 262 illus-
trations in text. 454 pages. 8 vo.
Net, $2.00.; J. B. Lippincott Com-
pany, Philadelphia.
For the woman or girl who does all
or part of her own, or her family's
sewing, this book will prove a guide in
her actual constructive work, a fund of
318
ADVERTISEMENTS
BELL'S SEASONING
For Nearly Fifty years preferred by Chefs,
CooRs and Housekeepers to flavor Dressings
for Meat, Game, Fish and Poultry.
Insist upon BELU5 the Original
A NICE TURKEY DRESSING.— Toast 7 or 8 slices of white bread.
Place in a deep dish, adding butter the size of an egg. Cover with hot
water or milk to melt butter and make bread right consistency. Add
one even tablespoon of Bell's Seasoning and one even teaspoon
salt. When well mixed stir in one or two raw eggs. For goose or
duck add one raTir onion chopped fine.
Equally good when baked in small disli and served separately.
JELLIED MEATS OR FOWL.— One pint of cold meat or fowl, 1
teaspoon Bell's Seasoning, V4 teaspoon salt, liquid enough to fill pint
mould. Add to liquid when hot, Itablespoon granulated gelatine. Cool and
serve on abase of lettuce leaves over which thin sliced lemon is placed.
Herbert S. Joslin, Manager Hotel Cecil, Medicine Hat, Alberta. Canada, writes :
"THE POULTRY AND SAUSAGE SEASONING reached us O. K. and almost every
daywe enjoy it m some form. My Chinese chef is quite delighted at the many compliments on
his Turkey Dressing and home-made Sausage cake. You'll hear from us soon as we need more."
For delicious Sausage flavor as directed, eitlier witli Beil's Spiced Poultry Seasoning,
Bell's New England Sausage Seasoning, or Bell's White Sausage Seasonng.
Fifteen Valuable Cooking Recipes on Receipt of Postal. Our Seasoning of your Grocer or by Parcel Post.
MADE ONLY BY THE WILLIAM G. BELL COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS.
WHITE HOUSE
^^BM
iMi
iM&^iiD
^I^^^KMH:
A39iM
KHiTE mmi
lit
In our campaign for a '^Better Cup of
Coffee * ' we need the assistance of the
intelligent housewife to the end that
the splendid material furnished by us
under the name of "White House" be
not spoiled in the brewing.
The WHITE HOUSE COFFEE is sold
in the bean, ground or pulverized, and nether
in any package but the one, two, or three-
pound ALL' TIN cans. White House TEA,
quarter and half-pound ALL-TIN cans, all
varieties, just as good as White House Coffee.
DWINELL- WRIGHT CO.
Principal Coffee Roasters
BOSTON-CHICAQO
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
319
320
AMERICAN COOKERY
information concerning the prices and
values of materials, a deal of interesting
suggestions upon design, color and the
art of dress, and much relief from prob-
lems concerned with the saving of
income, by the author's information
upon how a woman should plan her
budget.
A wise spender makes a valuable wife
or mother. Abundant opportunity to
learfi to become a wise spender awaits
a woman in the field of clothing. In
forming your wardrobe you purchase
before you sew, and it is for this reason
that the first part of this excellent book
is devoted to "how and what to buy."
In buying either materials or ready-
made garments, a woman should under-
stand fabrics: the text and clear illus-
trations give all the information neces-
sary.
The second part is devoted to the
principles and problems of clothing
design in relation to the individual,
color, pattern, and the use of patterns.
We should not think of our clothing
merely as a covering for the body,
nor will we after reading the stimulating
revelations of line and form, color and
composition in dress, presented in these
chapters.
The construction of clothing is the
subject of the third part. For the benefit
of those who have forgotten or perhaps
have never known the fundamental
stitches, a brief review, with many
illustrations of the various stitches, is
given. There then follow the methods
of making in the home all kinds of
under, outer, and over-garments. There
are two chapters upon decoration, em-
bodying all manner of trimmings and
embroidery.
In extent, variety and scope, there
is no book that is superior to this. It
is just the one that is needed to make
the work of a woman in her home more
satisfying and worth while. All manner
of details are considered, such as the
proper tools, the use of pattern maga-
zines, the housewife's proper method of
making her budget, etc., etc.
The illustrations throughout are new
and have been made from especially
prepared models. Each one particularly
illustrates the subject under con-
sideration. An especial feature is the
list of questions and exercises at the
end of every chapter.
We desire neither to add to nor sub-
tract from the foregoing description of
this book.
Culinary Echoes from Dixie, By Kate
Brew Vaughn; Price, Cloth, $1.00
net; The McDonald Press, Cincin-
nati, Ohio.
This book is a little out of the line of
the average cookbook. It contains both
the ordinary and, perhaps, some extra-
ordinary Southern recipes as well as
many contributed from other sections
of the country. It also holds other
matter that recommends it. The com- J
piler is a woman of excellent training and
wide and long experience in teaching
culinary science and domestic economy.
"Ever tempted to sell your automo-
bile?" asked the Cheerful Idiot. "The
temptation is strong enough," replied
Mr. Inbad, "but there are too many
points involved. You know I mort-
gaged my house in order to buy the ma-
chine." "Yes, I knew that." "Well, I
mortgaged the machine in order to build
the garage, and now I've had to mort-
gage the garage in order to buy gaso-
line." — Puck.
—The Daily Use in the Home of —
Vlatts Chlorides .
TheOdorlessDisinfectant
Is not a Luxury but
a Necessity
It Protects Health and
Prevents Sickness
Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Erery where
ADVERTISEMENTS
KNOX
Sparkling
GELATINE
^ Each
Package
Pints
Jellx.
ORANGE CHARLOTTE
^ envelope Knox
Sparkling Gelatine
^ cup cold water
^ cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoonfuls lemon
juice
1 cap orange juice and
pulp
Whites of three eggs
Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes and
dissolve in boiling water. Add sugar, and when
dissolved, add lemon juice. Cool slightly and add
orange juice and pulp. When mixture begins to
stiffen, beat, using wire whisk, until light; then
add whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, and beat
thoroughly. Turn into mold that has been dipped
in cold water and if desired line mold with lady
fingers or sponge cake. One pint whipped cream
may be used in place of whites of eggs. Other
fruits or nuts may be added.
APPLE CHARLOTTE
Make same as Orange Charlotte, using cooked
apple pulp in place of orange juice and pulp.
Each package of Knox
Sparkling Gelatine makes four
times as much jelly as the so-
called ready prepared kind.
Besides jelly, Knox Gelatine
makes Salads, Puddings,
Candies, etc.
Hundreds of pleasing uses for it
suggested in our
LATEST RECIPE BOOK
Sent FREE for your grocer's
name. If you wish a pint sample,
enclose 2c stamp.
CHAS. B. KNOX CO., Inc.
407 Knox Ave., Johnstown, N.Y.
■
I
Don't
lllll
I Say Merely
emons
99 I
When you want lemons from
your dealer, say "Sunkist," and
look for that name on the
wrapper.
Then you'll get lemons like this:
Practically^ seedless — they slice better.
Juicy, tart, full-flavored — one of Cali-
fornia's finest fruits.
Picked by gloved hands, scrubbed
with brushes, and packed and shipped
in sanitary tissue wrappers in which the
dealer will deliver them to you if you
request it. And these wrappers are
good for beautiful silverw^are premiums.
California s Selected
Practically Seedless
Lemons
Their attractive color makes them
very appetizing in appearance — the
ideal garnish for fish, game and meats;
or to serve with tea.
They cost no more than ordinary
lemons. For you, too, there'll be "no
other lemons" once you try this brand.
All dealers sell them.
California Fruit Growers Exchange
Co-operative— Non-profit
Dept. 69 Los Angeles. Cal.
I
■
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
321
The Silver Lining
A Song of the Ashes
Said a Hubby to his wife,
Whom he loved with all his life,
"I'll get up and make the fire,
Rest thou till the sun is higher
Every morning."
Heeds he not her sweet pl-otests,
But in lordly way suggests
That her little hands would tire,
If she built that kitchen fire
In the morning.
So she waits till off he goes,
Then she dons her working clothes,
And her "little hands" are aching.
While her back is nearly breaking
All the morning — ^
Cleaning up the ashes, cinders
And the clinkers and the flinders.
Hubby left all scattered o'er,
From the ceiling to the floor
In the morning.
And the birds seem sweetly singing
(She can hear their voices ringing)
"Oh, the ashes Hubby splashes,
'Ere away to work he dashes.
In the morning."
OBLONG RUBBER BUTTON
HOSE
SUPPORTER
The Oblong Rubber
Button is an exclusive
feature of Velvet Grip
goods. This most im-
portant modern improve-
ment in hose supporters has
taken the place of the old-
fashioned round button. It
is a cushion of solid live
rubber, and because of its
large holding surface it pre-
vents tearing and drop
stitches.
Buy corsets having the hose
supporters with the Oblong
Rubber Buttoo.
Sample set of four
"Sew-ons" for women,
50 cents, postpaid.
Sample pair of "Pin-
ons" for children, 15
cents postpaid [give
age]. Sample pair of
"Baby Midgets" for
infants— lisle, 10 cents;
silk, 1 5 cents, postpaid.
g GEORGE FROST COMPANY, MAKERS, BOSTON
fillilllllllllllllllllllllllllli^
Discovering a Star
Long had he worshipped her at a
distance, but his shyness prevented
him from proposing. So the Chicago
News story beigns.
Then, one evening, for the sweet
sake of charity, a theatrical performance
took place, in which the charmer was
leading lady and more adorable than
ever. Afterward the shy admirer
drew near his love, made valiant by the
sight of her beauty.
"You are the star of the evening,"
he said, as they stood alone in a corner.
"You are the first to tell me so," said
the damsel, with a happy blush.
"Then," he retorted promptly, "may
I claim my reward as an astronomer?"
The lady looked puzzled.
"What reward?" she asked.
"Why, the right to give my name to
the star I have discovered!" said the
young man, speaking boldly at last.
Insuring Friendships
A truly Irish invention for friendship's
sake is cast into dialogue form by the
Western Christian Advocate:
O'Toole: "Phwat's the matter that
ye didn't spake to Mulligan just now?
Have ye quarreled?"
O'Brien: "That we have not. That's
the insurance av our friendship."
O'Toole: "Phwat do ye mane?"
O'Brien: "Sure, it's this way. MulH-
gan an' I are that devoted to wan
another that we can't bear the idea of a
quarrel; an' as we are both moighty
quick-tempered we've resolved not to
spake to wan another at all, for fear
we break the frindship."
Sassafras Lore
A certain Kentucky politician says,
in the Saturday Evening Post, that when
he was a boy in Owen County, on the
edge of the Blue Grass District, the
local oracle made a habit of sitting in a
322
ADVERTISEMENTS
Have You Tried Sea Moss Farine ?
Justtry it once, that's all. Then you will ^noo? why so many people
use it regularly and will take no substitute. Besides Blanc Mange
you can easily make many tempting desserts such as Jellies, Ice
Cream, Puddings, Hot and Cold Beverages. Here is the proof.
Lyon Mfg. Co., ' 48 Winthrop St., Roxbury, JMass., Aug. 1, 1916.
Brooklyn, N. Y.
Gentlemen :
After seeing your advertisement of Sea Moss Farine in my daily paper I purchased
a package of my grocer and would like to send a word of appreciation for 3'our arti-
ticle. 1 have had blanc mange for a dessert for several j^ears past, but have alwaj^s
made it with the regular sea moss. I was pleased to try 3'ours and to obtain such
very satisfactory results, in a much easier and cleaner way of making it. I thought
the blanc mange was most delicious and shall make it hereafter with j^our Sea Moss
Farine. With best wishes, I am,
Very truly yours,
(Miss) H. MAUDE BINNEY
Sea f^oss Farine is indorsed b}^ Prof. All'^n, of Westfield Pure Food fame; Dr. Goudiss,
Editor of FORECAST and Food Expert ; Mrs. Janet M. Hill, Editor AMERICAN COOKERY
Magazine, and h^ Housekeepers every^where.
A 25c. Package yields
16 quarts desserts.
Sold by good Grocers or
will be mailed direct.
Sample and Recipe Book Free.
Lyon Manufadturing Co., Proprietors,
38 South Fifth Street, Brooklyn, N.Y.
A savory meal in itself for two
people— cuts the cost of living
FULLMEAIj
The entire family will enjoy this
most delicious combination of extra
quality beef and fresh vegetables. Being
cooked in the can until done, all the good-
ness and nourishment of the food is re-
tained. Full-Meal is correctly propor-
tioned — a well-balanced diet by itself.
Ready to serve, it lessens housework.
And there are so many convenient ways
of preparing Full-Meal that it is the
satisfying food for every meal. Recipes
are given on the can.
When you want something
tasty, satisfying and econom-
ical, try Full- Meal. Sample,
parcel post prepaid, 20c.
The Haserot Canneries
Company
Dept, 2
20 cents at grocers
(^REMO YESCO
For
WHIPPING THIN CREAM
Do you know that the "top" of the
milk bottle, thin cream or equal parts of
heavy cream and whole milk can be
whipped as easily and as stiffly as heavy
cream ?
How? By Using Cremo Vesco
Desserts, soups, salads and cocoa may
be served or decorated with whipped
cream made from "top" milk without
any extra expense or from thin cream
or half heavy cream and milk at half
the usual cost of whipped cream.
Cremo Vesco is a preparation of absolute pu-
rity and healthfulness. It makes the perfect
whipped cream for every service. It is more di-
gestible than heavy cream. It keeps sweet
longer. It cuts your cream bill in half.
Household size, prepaid, 25 cents. 16
ounce bottle ^vhips up 75 quarts of cream,
$1.00. Discounts on Quantities.
Cremo-Vesco Company
631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N.Y.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
323
AMERICAN COOKERY
Less needed-
truer flavor-
always the same
JosephBurnett Co.
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
When Hie
cliemisl-
Mks
That's all the time in the Stickney & Poor Factory
In the manufacture of
STICKNEY ra POOR'S
FLAVORING EXTRACTS
the Chemist is the Real Authority. He is the "Watch Dog."
There is no Guess Work, no Rule of Thumb. Everything is
Careful and Scientific Procedure. That is why these GREAT
TEN CENT SELLERS are so pure, so reliable, so popular
with all who know their genuine goodness. Constant Tests make
it impossible for goods below our high standard to be shipped.
For Goodness Sake when you order Mustards, Spices, Season-
ings and Flavorings, say "Stickney & Poor's" to your grr^cer.
Your Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT"
.^ STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY
^l 1815- -Century Old— Century Honored- -1916
WB BOSTON, MASS.
^■BJ Mustards - Spices Seasonings - Flavorings
THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT
certain chair against a certain store
front on the main street of the county
seat town at certain hours of the day,
the weather being fair, to answer
questions. To him one day came a
young farmer, who wanted to know how
to rid himself of sassafras sprouts in
his fields.
**Well, son," said the wiseacre, "off
and on I've give the subject of sassa-
frack sprouts considerable study durin'
the past forty-five years. And here
sometime ago I come to the opinion that
the only way to git shet of sassafrack
sprouts, when they start in to take a
place, is to pack up, and move off and
jest natchelly leave 'em."
The Lecture He Enjoyed
"Sir," said the young man with
enthusiasm as he seized the lecturer's
hand and shook it warmly, "I certainly
enjoyed your lecture last night very
much indeed." (We are quoting the
Ladies' Home Journal.)
"I am glad to hear that," said the
lecturer, "But I didn't see you there."
"No," admitted the youth, "I wasn't
there."
"But," said the puzzled speaker, "how
could you enjoy my lecture if you were
not present?"
"Oh, I bought tickets for my girl's
parents and they both went."
"My dear, this pie is a poem!"
exclaimed hubby, in glad surprise. "Your
own work?" "The cook collaborated,"
she admitted with some hesitation. — ■
Tit- Bits.
The grocer had just given little Ethel
a banana, which was accepted silently.
"Well, what do you say to the nice
man?" prompted the fond mother.
"I thay skin it." — Judge.
Before they wed, how she could cook
He had no time to judge;
For all she'd ever cooked for him
Was fudge, and fudge, and fudge.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
324
ADVERTISEMENTS
This New Range
Is A Wonder
For CooKing
Although it is less than four feet
long it can do every kind of cooking
for any ordinary family by gas in
warm weather, or by coal or wood
when the kitchen needs heating.
"Makes Cooking Easy"
Note the two gas ovens above — one
for baking, glass paneled and one
for broiling, with white door.
The large oven below is fitted with
Glenwood oven indicator, and is
heated by coal or wood.
When in a hurry, both coal and gas ovens can
be operated at the same time, using one for
meats and the other for pastry. It "Makes
Cooking Easy".
^- ^ Gold Medal ^
Glenwood
See Your Dealer
or write for handsome free booklet to
Weir Stove Company
Taunton, Mass.
JONES, McDUFFEE & STRATTON CO.
Table Crockery,
China and Glass
For Thanksgiving
TURKEY PLATTERS.— Large and extraordinarily
large platters on which to serve the national bird or
joint of beef; also plates to match.
DINNER SETS or CHINA DINNER WARE of all
grades taken from our large assortment of Stock Pat»
terns enable the purchaser to select just the articles
desired without being obliged to purchase the articles
not required at the time, with the added advantage of
being able to obtain matchings or additional pieces
of the same pattern later on.
We also offer a variety of Dinner Sets in stock
patterns of Avhich we are overstocked and which we
have marked down to reduce this overstock.
Entree Sets
($3.75 up to 178)
Fish Sets
($10 up to $40)
After Dinner Coffee Sets
($6 to $51.75)
Salad Sets
($6 to $57)
Ice Cream Sets
($3.75 to $35.50)
Game Sets
($7.50 to $135)
Single Dozens of High=Class China Plates
for Course Dinners
New and Attractive Pieces
Cut Crystal Glass
Table Decorations, with Large Centre Vase and Corner
Vases with connecting Glass Chains
Finger Bowls —Vases— Cocktails— Roemers —
borbets— Creme de Menthes— Cordials— Lemonades
— Champagnes— Hocks- Decanters— Carafes, etc.
Kitchen Ware Department
Comprising everything pertaining to the home in
this line, adapted for the familv, club, hotel, yacht
public institution, including New French Porcelain
Souffle Dishes, Shirred Egg Dishes, Egg Poachers.
Catetieres, Casseroles, Cocoites.
Jon«s,McDuffee & Stratton Co.
CROCKERY. CHINA AND GLASS
(10 Flood-s)
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL
33 Franklin Street, Boston
Near W^shi-Qijlon and Summer Sts.
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
325
AMERICAN COOKERY
HAirs-
Pure
Fruit
Juices
COMBINED IN
Hay s Five Fruit Syrup
make a most wholesome drink at all
seasons for all people — old or young.
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready.
Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00
•Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write
to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 6c
for mailing liberal sample.
H H HAY SONS
PORTLAND. ME.
MADE IN A JIFFY
You will be interested to know that you can serve
a very delicious dessert and still that no boiling or
baking is necessary. Also that this dessert is all
food, and just right as the last course for dinner,
as a luncheon dish, or with your breakfast cereal.
Warm milk added to Nesnah makes a dainty cus-
tard, which when well chilled is delicious.
Nesnah Ice Cream is more easily made than other
kinds and combines healthfulness with a smooth,
velvety ice cream.
Six Pure Natural Flavors
(An appeal to the economical
home-maker)
Lemon Almond
Orange Vanilla
Raspberry Chocolate
A postcard will bring a free
sample and a booklet of recipes
I
^
\NESNfiH
JUNKCT rOLKS
THE
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc.
JUNKET FOLKS
Box 2507
Little Falls, N.Y.
The Growth of the Trade Name
The growth of the trademark and
package food idea has been most pleas-
antly illustrated during the past sum-
mer by the increasing number of fresh
food products sold under a trade name
and in many cases protected by sani-
tary wrappings.
How few housewives are always sure
to pick out a good cantaloupe. It is no
longer necessary to select. Experts
select and wrap each melon in clean
tissue paper and stamp it with the
grower's or dealer's name. This is true
of other fruits, and fresh vegetables
are more and more being sold in car-
tons with the grower's name or some
distinguishing mark. As soon as the
housewife finds a distinguishing mark
that satisfies her as to quality, she can
order f;ruits and vegetables with as
much security as she can order canned
corn or raspberry jam.
The appearance of labeled goods in
dairy and poultry products is of course
of more timely interest now than vege-
tables. Not only can we buy butter and
eggs in packages and cartons, marked
and guaranteed by the firm name, but
chickens and turkeys come in the same
way. This represents an enormous ad-
vance in the Piu-e Food movement
which all housewives should encourage.
It is well known in the business world
that no amount of advertising will push
a poor product. No firm of high stand-
ing will put out products under its own
name that are not of uniform quality.
The day is coming when we shall see
all food products standardized, and the
housewife will be able to order all pur-
chases by name with the same con-
fidence that she now shows in buy-
ing pure leaf lard, bacon, or baking
powder. — Jean Prescott Adams.
Sereno, four-year-old daughter of
William H. Blodgett, chairman of the
Republican town committee, entered a
Winsted dry-goods store to-day and said
she wanted "some red, white, and blue to
make my doll a dress out of." The
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
326
ADVERTISEMENTS
STURDY
FOOD
Give the growing youngs-
ters plenty of good bread
made with
Fleischmann's Yeast
Our splendid little recipe, book sent
you free on request
The Fleischmann Co.
701 Washington Street New York City
mm
llHiWi
Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72
Hours orSteamingHot 24 Hours
A necessity in every home — indispensable when
traveling or on any outing. Keeps baby's
milk at right temperature, or invalid's
hot or cold drink all night without heat,
ice or bother of preparation.
Thoroughly protected against breakage.
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass.
Instantly demountable — easy to keep clean.
Typical Icy-Hot Values
No. 31. Bottle— Black Morocco Leath-
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5J5
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for
oysters,solidfood,etc.Pt, 3.00; Qt. 4.50
No, 515. Carafe, Nickle 0*. 5.00
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine
and tan, Pt. 1.75; Ot. 2.75
No. 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint
bottle and drinking cup ^.25
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle 0*. 9.00
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer
cannot supply you, accept no sub-
stitute—we will supply you direct^
at above prices, charges pre-
paid. Write for catalog show-
ing many styles from|l up.
Icy-Hot Bottle Co.
Cincinnati,
Ohio
||i^^^|||^ai;^^7cr
LESSONS IN COOKING ^^Ut^
^tatag «aoh m,«al. Food Sesmomy, Balass^gsst BiisS.. Memias f of all Oec»=
^ona, Special Articles. «t®. SomM im waSeffpsso^ IsatfeeTette, 480 pp
Uloitiated. Sent on appio'^el fos Ms and SOs mn <& mon^ha oi f 2 Gma.
S<mvnpl<a Fag^s JFree,
American School of Home MeonomicB, S03 W. eStUx St., GMeago, Xll.
POMPEIAN
OLIVE OIL
ALWAYS FRESH
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME
frs wford
Every style
Every price
$29.00 and up
Any style Crawford — at any price
— makes good cooking easy. The
wonderful single damper controls
fire and oven heat with one motion.
Simply place an always-cool knob at one
of three plainly marked positions to
"kindle," "bake," or "check." Perfect
cooking is assured.
Another big convenience found in most Craw-
ford Ranges is the interchangeable hod feature.
One hod catches the ashes — the other holds the
coal. You carry away ashes and bring back
coal in one trip.
Crawford Combination Ranges have two ovens — the
standard coal oven — and a large gas oven (elevated, or
end style) with an adjustable broiler. Each oven is dis-
tinct and separate — each perfect. Either fuel or both
— may be used at any time.
Sold by Leading Dealers
Walker & Pratt Mfg. Company
Boston, U. S. A.
Makers of Highest
Quality Ranges,
Furnaces and Boikrs
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
327
AMERICAN COOKERY
Exactly
Right
WP:
%'^
Measured
For You
'5l *>*^'*^*' ,'^^*'^ji>*5*' '• j.'v^''
Minute Gelatine is absolutely pure. It is ap-
proved by both Dr. Wiley and Prof. Allyn.
Minute Gelatine is measured for, you by weight.
^No guess work. ^ _ . -■ (
Each envelope (four to a package) contains exactly
the right quantity for 1 pint. Your jellies can't help
being "just right." , • ' " "
Minute Gelatine requires no'soa/irenbr whatever. It
dissolves inunediately in boiling water or milk. (
85 delightful, dainty ways of serving Minute Gelatine
given in Minute Cook Book. Drop a postal now asking
for a free copy. We want you to have it. Sample free
if you give us your grocer's name.
MINUTE TAPIOCA CO.. 811 E. Main St.. Orange. Mass.
THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2M
Needed in every jf»ome. Just the thing
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets,
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns
easy with one hand. Geared for high
speed. Gears enclosed make it per-
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel __^^^_
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures _i^§|^^EI|^|^^
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. Xji^^^HBH^ft?
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent ■-
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or
with our famous 2-in-l Flour Sifter
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2.50.
2-IN-l
$100
FLOUR
SIFTER
( Tested and approved by
Good Housekeeping Institute)
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to
clean. Has two compartments
with sifter between. Sift flour,
then turn sifter and re-sift as often
as desired. No trouble, no waste,
little work. Far better, cleaner,
easier, more economical than old
method. An Excellent Xmas Present.
Sent prepaid upon receipt of $ 1 .00
(or three for $2.00), or with
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every
housewife needs them both. Order
today.
Agents and Dealers Wanted
Write for our liberal proposition
WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO.
858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS.
proprietor waited on the little girl, who,
after receiving the parcel of material,
asked how much it cost. "That will
cost you just one kiss," repHed the pro-
prietor, whereupon Sereno remarked,
"Mamma will come in and pay you to-
morrow." — Contributed.
An old woman with a peaked black
bonnet got aboard a train in Kentucky,
and after calmly surveying everything in
the coach she turned to a red-haired boy
and, pointing to the bell-cord, asked,
"What's that, and why does it run into
that car?" "That's the bell-cord; it
runs into the dining-car. ' ' The old wom-
an hooked the end of her parasol over
the bell-cord and gave it a vigorous jerk.
Instantly the brakes were set and the
train came to a stop. The conductor
rushed in and asked loudly, "Who
pulled that bell-cord?" "I did," calmly, '
repHed the old lady. "Well, what do
you want?" shouted the conductor. "A
cup of coffee and a ham sandwich." —
Selected.
What they learned. — A visitor to a
Sunday-school was asked to address a
few remarks to the children. He took
the familiar theme of the children who
mocked Elisha on his journey to Bethel,
and how they were punished when two
she-bears came out of the wood and ate
forty-and-two of them. "And now,
children," said he, "what does this story
show?" "Please, sir," came from a
little girl in the front row, "it shows how
many children two she-bears can hold!"
— Tit- Bits.
The captain of industry was addressing
the students of the business college.
"All my success in life," he declared"
proudly, "all my enormous financial
prestige, I owe to one thing along —
pluck. Just take that for your motto —
pluck, pluck, pluck!" He paused im-
pressly, and a meek little student in
the front row said, "Yes, sir, but please
tell us whom did you pluck?" — Ladies'
Home Journal.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
328
ADVERTISEMENTS
SENSIBLE CHRISTMAS GIFTS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS
LADD MIXER-CHURNS
No. I, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD
BEATERS insert into and remove from same :
only ones thus made. We warrant they save
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti-
ful Made. By Parcel Post :
No. I. $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. States,
No. 1. 2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States
No. 2, 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West
CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE
"SATURN"
CLOTHESLINE REEL
A round Steel Ball — dust proof,
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft.
line, tested to 180 lbs. — takes
present clothes-pin. Use out^door
or in-door. Hangs anywhere. Two
spreading rings. Positiyely the best
made at any price. Sent Parcel
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.; nickel,
ed and polished, 65c.
LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES
PLEASE WRITE
UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York
ITNf TQf T A f 1^*"'^^'' *°*^ Luncheon Menus containing 183 i
UllUOU/lLi Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv-
ered32c. Address King's Daughters Society. 2320 E. lstSt..DuIath.Minn.
ALL KINDS OF LABOR AND MONEY-SAVING DEVICES
will be found in beautiful catalog sent on request
FRANK SPECIALTY HOUSE, Inc., Dept. 3, 433 Lenox Ave, New York
DOMESTIC SCIENCE Salt Mackerel
rlome-St\ady Covirses |
Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER
For Homemakers, Teachers and for
well-paid positions.
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins: "Free Hand
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents.
" Five Cent Meals," 10 cents.
AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO
FOR
THE
DRESSING TABLE
this charming Colonial bottle of sparkling
crystal glass to hold cologne or lotion.
PRICES : East of Missouri River (delivered)
With Pressed Stopcer 90c. With Cut Stopper |1.25
West of Missouri River, Florida, Maine, Canada (.del'v'd)
With Pressed Stopper $1.15 With Out Stopper $1.50
A.H.HEISEY&CO. Dept.56 NEWARK.OHIO
Write for illustrated booklet
.^t^
mEIBEYBI
(GLAEEWA
FOR THE TABLE
FOR THE
CONSUMER
FOR YOUR OWN TABLE
FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied DIRECT
from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. DAVIS
COMPANY, with newly caught, KEEPABLE OCEAN FISH,
choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish.
We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT sending
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY
express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appe-
tizing and economical and we want YOU to try some, pay-
ment subject to your approval.
SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not
spoil on your hands.
CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from
meat, at a much lower cost.
FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads.
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come toyou
as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as
crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell yourself.
FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your whole
iamily will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of clams,
whether fried or in a chowder.
FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, SAL-
MON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY for
salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing packed
here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep right
on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. ,,.-'
With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES. ..•••*'*
for preparing all our products. Write for it. Our ...••'Prank E,
list tells how each kind of fish is put up, with ^..•••* Davis Co,
the delivered price, so you can choose ..•••' « ro„f..oi wt..^
just what you will enjoy most.....-- ciouclsS^.M^ss.
Send coupon for it now. .••• tm
rnixti^ r j\k\ncrt\ .''' Please send me your latest
FRANK E.DAVIS CO. ...•• pish Price List.
65 Central Wharf
Gloucester, ...••■' Name
Mass. V ..•■•■'
.•••■' Street • ,
City.
,SlQt^.
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
329
AMERICAN COOKERY
A Range with
a Reputation
One quality; many styles
and sizes; with or without legs
"Don't buy
a pig in a poke"
Benjamin Franklin thus warned
his countrymen never to buy any-
thing before they saw it. Seeing
is the "safety first" of buying;
the only sure way of getting
exactly what you want and what
will best fill your needs.
When you see the Majestic you will know why it has won whole-
hearted praise everywhere.
The world-wide reputation of the Majestic is based on the prac-
tical working results of Majestic quality:— perfect baking, long-
est life and most economical service. Body of genume charcoal
iron, withstands rust 3 times longer than steel. Frames, top,
etc. of malleable iron, unbreakable metal that permits the joints
to be cold-rivetted, so that they stay tight always, hold in the
heat and maintain perfect baking temperature with half as much
fuel as other ranges use. Heavy asbestos boards reflect heat
onto all sides, top and bottom of oven; all surfaces baked per-
fectly without turning. The Majestic has many other important
advantages you should see, such as the famous one-piece, all-
copper, 15-gallon water heater. You'll find it easy to see the
Majestic near you, for there is a Majestic dealer in nearly every
county of 42 states. If you don't know one near you, write us
for his address.
Illustrates and describes every
Majestic feature ask " for it.
Free Book
Majestic Manufacturing Co., Dept. 234, St. Louis, Mo.
CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS
Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean
pure unadulterated California products from producer to
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to
answer inauiries-
JOHN T. GRIFFITH
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal.
X Trade Mark RegiBtered. \\X/
Gluten Flour X
40% GLUTEN
Guaranteed to comply in all respects to
standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of
X
Agriculture
Manufactured by
FAR WELL &. RHINES
Watertown. N. Y.
X
GIVE THIS FOR XMAS
r^z^ ^-'-i- "'l'^^^
Moth-
Proof
Red
Cedar
Chest
Sent
Piedmont Red
Cedar Chest. Yourchoiceof 75 styles and deBi<?n8 ui v;
sent on 15 days' free trial. We pay the freight. «^''
A Piedmont protects furs, woolens and plumes from
moths, mice, dust and damp. Distinctly beautiful.
Needed in every home. Lasts for generations. Finest
CliriBtmas, wedding or birthday gift at great saving.
Write today for our great catalog
and, reduced, prices — postpaid free.
Piedmont Red Cedar Chest Company, Dept. 57, Statesville, N. C.
Reduced
Factory
Prices.
Freight
Prepaid.
A NOVELTY That
Does Efficient Work
Saves
Time and Eggs
Does the work quicker and belter than it can
be done in any other way.
One will be sent postpaid to any present sub-
scriber as a premii'm for securing and sending
us one ( 1 ) new yearly subscription at $ 1 .00.
Cash price 75 cents each.
The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co.
BOSTON, MASS.
Send for our Premium List
Buy advertised Goods
— Do not accept substitutes
330
ADVERTISEMENTS
Kxperience has shown that the most satisfactory way
to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri-
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums:
/^/^]V¥\¥T'f QTVCi • Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
' to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.00 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
stated below the description of each premium.
Transportation is or is not paid as stated.
SWEDISH
p;^ ROSETTE
^m IRONS
These are something new in this country. With
them you can make delicious and beautiful pastry
confections, to be served sprinkled with powdered
sugar or spread with jam or preserves and orna-
mented with whipped cream.
Each set comes securely packed in an attractive
box, with recipes and full directions for use.
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 60c.
MAGIC COVER
For Pastry Boards and Rolling Pin ; chemically
treated and hygienic ; recommended by leading
teachers of cooking. If you once use this you will
never be without a set again. Saves flour, time
and patience. Sent postpaid, for one (1) new sub-
scription. Cash price, 65c.
Pastry Ba^ and Four Tubes
(Bag not shown in cut)
A complete outfit. Practical in every way.
Made especially for Bakers and Caterers. Emi-
nently suitable for home use.
The set sent, prepaid, for two (2) new subscrip-
tions. Cash price, $1.00.
THE A. M. C. ORNAMENTER
Rubber pastry bag and twelve brass tubes, assorted designs, for cake decorating. This set is for fine
work, while the set described s-bove is for more general use. Packed in a wooden box, prepaid, for
three (3) new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.60.
PATTY
IRONS
Are used to make pates or timbales; pastry cups
for serving hot or frozen dainties, creamed vege-
tables, salads, ices, etc.
Each set, packed in a box with recipes and full
directions.
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 60c.
ROTARY
MINCING
KNIFE
Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect-
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables, etc.,
and the shield frees the knives from the materials
being cut.
Sent, prepaid, for one (i) new subscriber. Cash
price, 60c.
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Boston, Mass.
Buy advertised Goods^ — Do not accept substitutes
331
AMERICAN COOKERY
PREMIUMS
PRINCESS PATTY TINS
— FOR-
Brownies or Other Small Cakes
A SET OF 24 TINS
Sent postpaid for one (1) new subscriptioD
Cash Price, 50c.
Bro-wnies
1 Egg, well beaten
1 cup of Flour
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or
Walnuts
Mix in the usual manner but without separating
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press
half a nut meat into the top of each cake.
}i cup of Butter
}4 cup of Sugar
}i cup of Molasses (dark)
A SET OF THREE
STEEL DRAWN MOULDS
For Jellies, Puddings, Custards,
etc., etc.
Are so snaped that the contents readily comes
out in perfect condition.
These moulds ordinarily sell for 35c. pint size,
40c. pint and a half, and 60c. for quart size.
We have combined the three sizes into a set, and
will send a set (either oval or round but not
assorted shapes), prepaid, as premium for one
(1) new subscription. Cash Price 63 c.
"ROBERTS IIGHTNING
MIXER"
Tens of thousands of delighted
housekeepers daily use this
mixer and recommend it as be-
ing the most effective beater,
mixer and churner they ever
saw. Beats whites of eggs in
half a minute, whips cream and
churns butter in from one to
three minutes. In making
floats, salad dressings, custards,
gravies, charlotte russe, egg nog,
etc., it must be used in order to
achieve the best results. No
spatter. Saves time and labor.
Sent postpaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash Price 50c.
^\ /AVvAV> GOI^I^EN ROD
W^^^ CAKE PAN
For " Waldorf Triangles '' " Golden Rod Cake,"
'* Orange Slice Cake " and many other fancy
cakes. Substantially made of the best tin. Sent
postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash
Price 45c. ^"^
FRUIT
CUTTER
Cores and splits apples, pears and
quinces into six pieces with one
operation. Silver plated, turned
wooden tray. Sent, postpaid, for
one (1) new subscription. Cash
price, 60 cts.
The only reliable and sure
way to make Candy, Boiled
Frosting, etc., etc., isto use a
THERMOMETER
Here is just the one you need.
Made especially for the purpose by
one of the largest and best manu-
facturers in the country.
Sent, postpaid, for two (2) new
subscriptions. Cash price, $1.00.
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
332
ADVERTISEMENTS
PREMIUMS
nPHE bottom of the center space
is closed ; in this can be served
any creamed meat, oysters or vege-
tables, garnished around the edges
with parsley, radishes or olives.
Another excellent way of using
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf
and fill with salad ; or fill the shell
with an ice or ice cream and gar-
nish with fruit. ,
Sent, prepaid for two (2 ) new
subscriptions. Cash price $1.00.
FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN
Open End
Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 long.
Sent, prepaid for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price 45c.
DOOR STOP
Need not be fastened to the floor.
Holds door open at any angle.
Worked by the foot.
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) sub-
scription. Cash price 50c.
When ordering mention whether
or not door has a threshold.
BREAD BOARD
Eleven-inch turned and carved maple bread board.
Imported. Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber
for securing and sending us one (1) new yearly sub-
scription for American Cookery. Cash price 65c.
INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS
Serves Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic, Coffee and Fruit Jelly,
Pudding and other desserts with your initial
letter raised on the top. Latest and Dainti-
est novelty for the up-to-date hostess.
To remove jelly take a needle and run it
around inside of mould, then immerse in
warm water ; jelly will then come out in
perfect condition.
Be the first in your town to have these.
You cannot purchase them at the stores.
This shows mould (up-side down)
This shows the jelly turned from the mould
Set of six (6), any initial, sent, postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash price 55c.
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass,
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
333
AMERICAN COOKERY
FOR THOSE WHO WANT A HOME
CRAFTSMAN HOUSE NO. 78
our one dollar offer gives you
The Craftsman for Six Months
with Two New Houses in Each Issue, together
with Four Popular Craftsman Houses Reproduced
ALSO
— OUR CRAFTSMAN HOUSE BOOK-
Printed in Duo-tone Ink, with Thirty Houses of the New
Efficiency Type : House and Garden Furniture and Fittings
THE CRAFTSMAN — BEAUTIFUL, PRACTICAL — A MAGAZINE OF PROGRESS
THE CRAFTSMAN PUBLISHING CO.. CIRCULATION DEPT.. 6 E. 39th ST.. N.Y. CITY
Gentlemen : You may send me six numbers of THE CRAFTSMAN beginning with
together with your book, "Craftsman Houses."
Enclosed find $ 1 .00 NAME.^ —
(This offer to readers of American Cookery
good till November 15, 1916, only.)
— ► 15 MONTHS
ADDRESS.
$3.00
15 MONTHS -^—
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
334
ADVERTISEMENTS
In order to attain tKe HigKest Possible
State of Perfection, in MaKing all CaKes,
and to be Certain of Success every time,
it is only necessary to vise a regular set of
The Van Deusen Cake Moulds
and practice tHe Scientific
MetKod furnisKed AvitH same.
This Scientific Method is : To bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let
them stick, and loosen the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be
removed. (Each mould being provided with openings at the sides, which are
covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted, to loosen the cake from
the bottom.) In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking and cooling,
and prevents same from settling, and becoming "soggy.**
These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exacdy how to do each operation right, — being so
practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in the past, success will
be assured every time these instrucfions are followed correctly, and angel, sunshine and other
of the more deKcate, delicious and desirable cakes are made easier than the ordinary ones are
by the old methods.
Some may claim that other makes of cake tins are "just as good" as the Van Deusen Cake
Moulds, and also that the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes are no better than the
ordinary ones, but it will only be necessary to consult a few (of the thousands) of the cake-
makers that are using these, or give the outfit a trial, in order to be convinced of their superior
merits, not only for making angel cake, but for all other kinds as well.
The regular set consists of : 1 loaf and 2 layer
moulds, regular size, round or square, 1 measur-
ing cup, 1 egg whip, and a booklet of the
Chapman Cake Rules and Recipes; and it is to
the best interest of all cake makers to see that
their dealers carry these sets, for they include
only what is absolutely necessary to have, in
order to be certain of success, in making all cakes.
The set sells at the same price that the same articles would bring
separately, and the Recipes are only furnished with these sets.
If your dealer will not supply you with these sets, we will send same, post-
paid, as follows : To offices, in the United States, east of the Mississippi river,
upon receipt of 90 cents and to those west of the same for $1.10.
Send yoxjT orders to
The Chapman Co.
Geneva, N. Y.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
335
ADVERTISEMENTS
^y. ^'7 V
N- OTHING in the home is quite so suggestive of individual efFort
as a piece of hand-made lace. The distinctive design, the count-
less interweaving stitches, the artistic little irregularities here and
there — all spell the tedious, painstaking handwork that no one can
mistake.
Exquisite pieces of this kind are so full of the human spirit that we
instinctively respect, love and care for them as we would a friend.
Only the method of cleaning which we consider good enough for
tender skins is good enough for them. Only the mild, pure, neutral
soap that makes the bath and toilet a delight is worthy of washing
their hand-drawn threads.
IVORY SOAP
^ ^ * w ;■*>*' , i*^^ "^^Km*- -'«.*'#^ .rf^k"^**-
99:fo
PURE
"f lF-L©AT^'
^■%:
^/,w%
V v%.'
''^ w fe
^> V
Buy advertised Goods
- Do not accept substitutes
336
ADVERTISEMENTS
\
\
'^^^Wu^d
d:^.^.,A..'
"NEVER MIND, PLENTY LEFT HONEY."
hainted by Edward V. Breiver for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheat Co.
Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
337
AMERICAN COOKERY
Vol. XXI
DECEMBER, 1916
No. 5
CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER
PAGE
MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS DAY 345
A WAYSIDE INN THAT IS MAKING A FARM PAY
(Illustrated) • . . . Jane Vos 347
A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON Helen Forrest 353
BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION Roy Temple House 356
THE FOREST ELVES Christine Kerr Davis 359
TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS . . Mary D. Chambers 360
THE BIRDS' CHRISTMAS TREE .... Seymour See 36*2
FRAU BAUM'S TORTE Jane New 364
THE MORNING TIME A. W. Herr 365
EDITORIALS 366
SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with
half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . . Janet M. Hill 369
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN
DECEMBER „ „ „ 278
MENUS, TWO-COURSE LUNCHEONS FOR CARD
PARTIES „ „ „ 379
ECONOMY IN DEMAND Emma Gary Wallace 380
ORIGIN AND MEANING OF COOKING TERMS
Sarah Graham Morrison 383
HOMF IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— A Christmas Credo-
Efficiency Applied — How the Groceteria Saves Your Money —
Practical Christmas Wrappings — Brush and Paint in the
Kitchen — A Veiled Wedding— Etc 386
QUERIES AND ANSWERS 391
THE SILVER LINING 400
MISCELLANEOUS 404
$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY
Four Years' Subscription, $3.00
Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c.
Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter
Copyright, 1916, by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.
Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose
338
ADVERTISEMENTS
Cottolene
''The Natural
Shortening^'
Cake of excelling quality
Just as Cottolene adds to the light-
ness and delicacy of biscuits and
pastry, so does it meet the require-
ments for cakes of all kinds. You will
appreciate the superior "creaming"
quality of Cottolene.
Use Cottolene for all your shortening;
learn how very good it is in cake-mak-
ing. Use it also for frying; realize the
tempting, wholesome quality it gives to
foods.
Cottolene is put in pails of various
sizes for your convenience. Arrange
with your grocer for a regular supply.
Almond Cream
Cake
Cream 3^ cup of butter
and Cottolene packed to-
gether, add one cup of
sugar, and mix in alter-
nately }/2 cup of milk or
water and two cups oi
pastry flour sifted three
times with two teaspoons
baking powder. Beat well,
flavor and add five stiffly
beaten whites. Bake in
two layers.
Whip sweetened cream
until stiff; flavor with al-
mond extract and sherry;
add chopped blanched
almonds and spread be-
tween and over the layers.
Garnish with cherries.
From "HOME HELPS" mailed
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Offices, Chicago
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AMERICAN COOKERY
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377
376
INDEX FOR DECEMBER* Page
Belgium and the Food Question 356
Birds' Christmas Tree, The 362
Economy in Demand 380
Editorials 355
Forest Elves . _ 359
Frau Baum's Torte 354
Home Ideas and Economies 386
Menus 345^ 378, 379
Morning Time, The 365
New Year Luncheon, A 353
Origin and Meaning of Cooking Terms . . . 383
Silver Lining, The 400
Talks to a Normal Class 360
Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pay, A 347
Seasonable and Tested Recipes :
Beef Tenderloin, Minions of, Home Stvle
111 . 370
Bread, Gluten. Ill 373
Cake, Nut. Ill 373
Cakes, Heart 377
Caramels, Quick Chocolate 377
Charlotte Russe, Christmas. Ill 377
Chicken, Roast, Celery Stuffing, Sausage
Crescents, Puff-Paste. Ill W
Fondant Balls, Chocolate. Ill
Fondant, Chocolate 377
Frosting, Confectioners' 374
Frosting, Ornamental. Ill 374
Gingersnaps, Bermuda. Ill 375
Jumbles, Orange Cocoanut. Ill 375
Jumbles, Wafer. Ill 375
Leeks, Boiled, Hollandaise Sauce 371
Potatoes, Glazed 372
Potatoes, Parisienne 370
Pudding, Virginia Kornlet 372
Salad, Christmas Fruit. Ill 373
Sandwich, Open Club, Filene Style.. 111. 372
Soup, Leek-and-Potato 369
Steak, Salisbury, with Bacon, Hotel Style 369
Sticks, Imperial 369
Timbales, Chicken-and-Rice. Ill 371
Toast, Polly's Cinnamon 372
Turnips, Fall 372
Queries and Answers :
Beans, Boston Baked 391
Beef Tea, Beef Extract, etc.. 394
Bouillon and Consomme 394
Bread, Oatmeal 391
Cake, Ideal Sponge 392
Cake, White, with Marshmallo w Frosting 396
Candy, Divinity 396
Candy, with Fondant 392
Diet in Case of Gall Stones 396
Dressing, Boiled Salad 392
Dressing, Thousand Island Salad 394
Dressing, Whipped Cream 392
Eclairs with Chocolate Frosting 396
Food, Lists of. Cooked at Same Tem-
perature 392
Recipes, Number of Portions in 396
Viscogen 391
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ADVERTISEMENTS
CEEHSTMA
03 f cy i"d) /rY\ Td) '
'o
For the woman who runs the household — can you imagine a more
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comparatively small sum, and it rewards richly for all the years to
come. Every recipe is absolutely sure. All sorts of ideas and in-
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returns for your money. For instance, there is
Mrs. Rorer's Nctv Cook Book
Over 700 pages of most delightful, original recipes; how to market, cook,
serve, carve, etc.; beautifully illustrated.
Bound in washable cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.20
Now here's another good thing —
Two sets of books, five in a set; their names tell the story of each; all good,
beautifully bound in colored cloth, very attractive in appearance.
How to Use a Chafing Dish
Sandwiches
Many Ways for Cooking Eggs
Home Candy Making
Cakes, Icings and Fillings
This set of five books will make a beautiful
gift, and only cost $2,50; single copies can be
had for 50 cents each.
My Best 250 Recipes
Ice Creams, Water Ices, Etc.
Canning and Preserving
New Salads
Dainties
This set of five will cost S3. 75 ; single copies,
75 cents each. Full of delightful recipes. A
gift as welcome as Christmas.
If you desire, we will forward the books to any address, and enclose your card of greeting.
All books packed securely.
Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book
A wonderful book, full of the very best things. Splendidfor the beginner
in housekeeping. At same time the experienced cook can gain from it.
Bound in washable cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.15
Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia
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341
AMERICAN COOKERY
A Choice List of Gift Books
The Romance of a
Christmas Card
By KATE DOUGLAS WIGGIN.
Everyone who has ever known the joys of an old-fashioned
home Christmas will delight in this charming romance by the
author of "The Birds' Christmas Carol." The lovable
characters, and the glowing Christmas spirit that breathes
through its pages, the beautiful colored illustrations and the
dainty binding combine to make this the pei-fect gift book of
the season. $1.00 net.
i-i^li^-'
Just David
By ELEANOR H. PORTER.
This beautiful story by the author of "Pollyanna," "Miss Billy," "The Story of Marco," etc., makes
a?i ideal gift for old and young because it is the book that everyone likes, and because it carries a
n.essage of happiness and inspiration that will be gratefully remembered for years to come.
Handsomely bound and illustrated, $1.25 net. Also a Holiday Edition in limp leather, $2.00 net.
The Wall Street Girl
By FREDERICK ORIN BARTLETT. An absorb-
ing romance of a working girl who won the admiration
and love of a young millionaire. Illustrated. $1.35 net.
Tish
By MARY ROBERTS RINEHART. " Tish' is
a joy. Mrs. Rinehart has written many good stories,
but nothing more entertaining than this latest book." —
Philadelphia JPuhlic Led-aer. Illustrated in color by
May Wilson Preston. $1.50 n.e<.
Skinner's Dress Suit
By HENRY IRVING DODGE. A delightful st^ry
of a young wife who helped her husband to success by
making him buy a dress suit. Illustrated. $1.00 /re*.
Speaking of Home
By LILLIAN HARTTRYON. These delightful
papers present the attractions of housewifery even in this
present age. A book all women will appreciate. $1.00 we*.
The Business of Being a Friend
By BERTHA CONDE. A wise guide in the solving
of problems in friendships, written from a life of rich and
rare experience. $1.00 7%et.
The Motorists' Almanac
By WILLIAM LEAVITT STODDARD. This
clever book will amuse as well as give many helpful hints
to all motorists. Illustrated. $1.00 wet.
FOR YOUNG FOLKS
About Harriet
By CLARA WHITEHILL HUNT. Tells of the
doings of a little city girl through all the days of the week
— a trip to the shore on a picnic, a day of shopping in a
big store, a ride in the subway, marketing day, — a story
fascinating for all little folks. Illustrated in color by
Maginel Wright Enright. $1.25 net.
The Cave Twins
By LUCY FITCH PERKINS. The adventures of
Firetop and Firefly, who were perhaps the first human
twins that ever were born. Has all the interest and humor
which has characterized the Japanese, Mexican, Dutch,
Eskimo and Irish "Twins." Fully illustrated. $1.00 net.
Stories To Tell The Littlest Ones
By SARA CONE BRYANT. Stories, finger plays
and songs that the author has found most popular with
children of two to six years of age. The book is pro-
fusely illustrated in color and black and white by Willy
Pogany and makes a wonderfully attractive gift. $1 .50 net-
Bible Stories to Read and Tell
By FRANCES JENKINS OLCOTT. An attractive
collection of 150 stories from the Old Testament in the
language of the King James Version. The book is lav-
ishly illustrated with superb paintings and drawings in
color and black and white by Willy Pogany. $2.00 net.
Illustrated Holiday and
Juvenile Bulletins
Sent Free on Request
Houghton Mifflin Company
PARK STREET
BOSTON
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342
ADVERTLSEMENTS
AMERICA'S COOK BOOK LEADERS
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK
By Fannie Merritt Farmer. Contains 2,117 thoroughly tested recipes,
from the simple and economical to the elaborate and expensive — the leading
American authority on cooking.
" The best cook book on the market." — Woman's World. .
Over 130 Illustrations.
Pages.
Cloth.
$1.80 Net.
CANNING. PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING
By Janet M. Hill. An authoritative guide, containing the latest word on the subjects
treated — a thoroughly reliable work for all*housekeepers.
fully Illustrated.
$1.00 Net.
""^^^
A NEW BOOK OF COOKERY
By Fannie Merritt Farmer. An almost indispensable companion volume
to her "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." It contains 852 recipes upon all
branches not included in her older book, many of which are not to be found in
any other work.
With 6 colored and over 200 other illustrations. Cloth. $1.60 Net.
FOOD AND COOKERY for the SICK AND CONVALESCENT
• ?^ 5^*^^^® ^' Farmer. An invaluable book for those whose duty it is to care for the
sick. There are also important chapters on infant and child feeding, suggestions for diets, etc.
Illustrated. $1.60 Net.
THE BOSTON COOK BOOK
By Mary J. Lincoln. "As a scientific work, as a book of real value to
the world, few publications have equalled it. . . . It has gone through 53
editions. No efforts have been spared to make the, book the most practical,
complete and comprehensive possible." — Boston Globe.
With 50 illustrations. 600 Pages. Cloth. $1.80 Net.
SALADS, SANDWICHES and CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES
By Janet M. Hill. "More than a hundred different varieties of salads among the recipes
— salads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of
different ways." — Washington Times.
Illustrated. $1.50 Net.
COOKING FOR TWO
By Janet McKenzie Hill. Gives in simple and concise style, those things
that are essential to the proper selection and preparation of a reasonable
variety of food for the family of two individuals. Menus for a week in each
month of the year are included.
With 150 illustrations.
TABLE SERVICE
By Lucy G. Allen
A cornprehensive exposition of the waitress'
duties; including tray service, carving, laying
of table, care of dining room, etc.
Fully Illustrated. $1.25 Net.
Cloth. $1.50 Net.
BOOK OF ENTREES
By Janet M. Hill
Contains over 800 recipes for entrees, in-
cluding a chapter on planked dishes and those
served_ en casserole, together with a choice
collection of menus.
Fully Illustrated. $1.50 Net.
bo^LCes little, brown & CO., Publishers "S.'*
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AMERICAN COOKERY
Enjoy the light and flaky, flavor^dripping goodness of holiday mince pies
—made with MORRIS TESTED PRODUCTS. They crown the feast.
"Whiteleaf Brand Pure Lard — the perfect shortening — is the ideal Lard for Family
Use. It is loo per cent pure. "Golden Crown" Mince Meat — ready to use — coH'
tains a wealth of luscious fruits— tart apples; big, juicy raisins; piquant currants and
candied fruits. Made with choice lean teef, snowwhite 'suet — seasoned with
aromatic spices. A thrilling filling for "real old-fashioned" mince pies. Ask for
Morris Tested Foods
Write for the ne^v Morris Cook Book — "The Su-
preme Test." Address, Morris & Company, Chicago.
[Cudr^nteedV..
duy adv^ertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
344
Menus for Christmas Day
Breakfast
Halves of Grapefruit
Broiled Bacon Mashed Potatoes
Whole-wheat Baking Powder Biscuit
or
Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated)
Honey in the Comb
Coffee Cocoa
Dinner
Orange, White-Grape and Pineapple
Cocktail
Roast Chicken, Celery Stuffing, Sausag*"
Cranberry Sauce or Jelly
Sweet Potatoes, Southern vStyle
Onions in Cream
Celery
Mince Pie
Vanilla Ice Cream
Bermuda Ginger Snaps
Half Cups Coffee
Nuts Raisins Bonbons
Supper
Oyster Stew, Oysterettes
Olives
Bread and Mayonnaise Sandwiches
Baked Pears
Orange Cocoanut Jumbles
A
merican
Cook
ery
VOL. XXI
DECExMBER
No. 5
A Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pay
By Jane Vos
ONE of the newest avenues open to
the woman who wishes to earn
an income at home is to estabhsh
wayside accommodations for motorists.
According to those who have already
done so, the only equipment necessary is
a few attractive cups and saucers, such as
most china closets have on display, or
bring out on special occasions, a tea-
kettle, a tea-wagon and a muffin stand.
To be sure, there must be the proverbial
"vine and fig tree." If it is one's own, so
much the better ; if not, it may be owned
outright in time, for more than one clever
woman is making her "Home O' Dreams' '
pay for itself in this manner.
New England women have long since
learned the commercial value of the way-
side inn, and "Sally Lunn Tea Cake
Houses," and "Bide-a-wee Inns" now
flourish under their management. And
still there is room for more! Motorists
everywhere complain tha.t accommoda-
tions are limited, short of an ordinary
hotel where comfort is frequently at a
premium. In the middle states and far
west, women have been a little slower
about grasping their opportunities in this
direction. Between Detroit and Chi-
cago, for instance, a distance of several
hundred miles, there is but one wayside
inn to cheer the heart of the motorist.
This alone is ample proof that there is
room for many more.
"Bird House Inn" near the Western
Pike, Niles, Michigan, is one of the most
BIRD HOUSE INN FROM FRONT GATEWAY
347
348
AMERICAN COOKERY
unique examples of what can be accom-
plished in a single season. Miss Mae
Jefferson, its hostess, is a transplanted
city girl, having spent all her life on the
South Side of Chicago, near the lake. A
few years ago, however, she became so
attached to her father's farm at Niles,
during one of their numerous vacations,
that she decided to transform it into a
year-round home. The seventy-five-
year-old house was therefore remodeled
on a small margin, and made as attract-
ive and comfortable as possible. After
her father's death Miss Jefferson sud-
denly awakened to the fact that she had
a white elephant on her hands, — for the
farm was eating its head off — not even
paying expenses. Fortunately, Miss
Jefferson's problem was not so serious as
it would have been with many another
as she had the means to maintain her
home, but being a thrifty person she
decided that the farm must stop loafing
and pay its own way.
Accounts from the villagers of motor-
ists stopping at their front gates and
asking for accommodations, — a cup of
tea, a modest dinner, a bed for over
night gave her the idea for her inn. The
spacious old house with its wide ver-
andas was all ready to lend its generous
aid to the project. There was room and
to spare, and every bed that was occu-
pied over night would be practically
clear gain.
The farm was, therefore, "let on
shares," and planted straightway with
an abundance of good things to supply
the table. The poultry yard was stocked
with choice Houdans and thoroughbred
ducks — all with an eye to business.
Down in the village, meantime, boys
in the manual training class at the high
school were busy making bird houses,
for a wave of good fellowship for feath-
ered friends was sweeping the country.
Miss Jefferson heard about it, and, being
a friend of the birds also, she visited the
high school with malice aforethought,
and, when she left, she was the proud
possessor of the finest collection of bird
houses in the state.
THE PORCH LIVING-ROOM
A WAYSIDE INN
349
A GUEST ROOM
A day or so later, the boys made up a
party, and they went out to the farm to
help Miss Jefferson erect her newly
acquired possessions. By nightfall, all
the choicest spots available were usurp-
ed by bird houses, and the place began
to look like a paradise for feathered folk,
as it really has since proven.
Over the gateway a swinging sign
surmounted by a wren house was hung,
and emblazoned upon it were the words,
"Motorists' Accommodations." The
martin house nearby, which surmounted
the tallest of all the pedestals, looked
more than ever like a totem-pole when it
was wired and a big lamp installed.
Now at dusk, when the wayfarer pauses
for rest or refreshment, he is made
doubly siu-e of the place by the Sign of
the Martin House, the light of which
blinks him a cheerful welcome. It is a
goodly sight to "man and beast."
Broilers from her own poultry houses
provide the chicken dinners for which
the Inn is already famous. Golden
Bantam corn and other home-grown
vegetables supplement the rest of the
menu. All meals are served on the west
screened porch, simply and daintily.
Japanese runners and napkins are used,
and between meals stenciled oilcloth
covers give a living-room aspect to the
porch.
A floral centerpiece always adorns the
table. More than likely it is composed
of what many people would term
"weeds," for the wayside must provide
this service. Black-eyed Susans, daisies,
buttercups, honeysuckle — whatever the
mood of the mistress of the inn — but
always perched away in the heart of the
blossoms are tiny yellow birds which
sway back and forth in the breeze so
naturally that it is difficult to tell them
from real live songsters. That they are
merely celluloid, weighted with lead,
does not in the least detract from the
joy of their presence. They seem to
belong to Bird House Inn, just as do the
paroquets swinging on their wooden
perches at the other end of the porch,
quite fitting in with the landscape.
It is a delightful spring morning, and
there is a whifE of fragrant honeysuckles
in the air. A siren melodiously an-
nounces a guest. Miss Jefferson stand-
ing in the doorway in her simple morning
gown and dainty dusting cap is a picture,
350
AMERICAN COOKERY
"HEAD GARDENER"
fur there are stray wisps of wonderful
golden hair peeping from under the lace
frill of the bewitching cap. The motor-
ist stares very hard, though he does not
mean to be rude; but even in morning
attire Miss Jefferson cannot disguise the
fact that she is a thoroughbred, and not
the ordinary "landlady."
A cap is doffed. "I suppose I'm too
late for breakfast, and too early for
dinner," smiles the newcomer. "But
I'm starved!" he adds apologetically.
Reassured that it is not impossible
to serve him a late breakfast, the guest
leisurely refreshes himself at the spring
house while awaiting his belated break-
fast. A half hour later, having satisfied
the needs of the inner man, he finds him-
self discussing music with Miss Kay, the
partner of this unique establishment.
They run the whole gamut of musical
subjects from Chopin to ragtime, when
suddenly the man rises, and stammers
an apology.
"How can I mention payment in con-
nection with such delightful hospitality ?"
he murmurs. "And yet I know there
must be a commercial aspect to your
venture. Allow me, therefore, to leave
my offering under my serviette."
"That is the way they all feel,"
laughs Miss Jefferson, "And could any
compliment be greater ? Only delightful
people come to our door — authors,
musicians, professional people from
all walks of life. Never have we been
compelled to turn an uneligible person
away. Our only trouble on that score
is lack of room to accommodate all the
charming people who apply for accom-
modations."
The first guests of the Inn happened
to be Mr. and Mrs. Robbin and their
young brood. They arrived at dusk,
very tired and exceedingly hungry.
The light in the Martin House was as
welcome as if they were castaways on a
desert isle.
"Motorists' Accommodations!" they
heard someone say as a big car ceased
to honk. "Well, if it's for 'motor-wrists'.
I'm going in" chirped Mr. Robbin hope-
fully.
A broiled chicken dinner with all the
accompaniments of salads and ices, and
a Katydid Orchestra thrown in, put all
the Robbins in such a happy frame of
mind that they vowed allegiance to the
Inn forever thereafter. They have
proved as good as their word. Upon
their return to South Bend, they spread
the glad tidings among their friends, and
from that hour much of their patronage
has come through their first guests.
One of the friends of the Robbins, who
was entertaining a house party of young
people, straightway telephoned to Miss
Jefferson for week-end accommodations.
"And be sure and have the dancing
pavilion in good trim," was her parting
injunction.
Before Miss Jefferson could protest,
the would-be guest rang off. It is very
doubtful whether the former would have
acknowledged that the Inn did not
boast a dancing pavilion. It is not her
way. She merely smiled enigmatically,
then went out in the back yard and cast
her eye judicially over an abandoned
chicken house, a long, rambling affair.
"It will do nicely," she murmured.
A WAYSIDE INN
351
Five days later the building stood on
a more commanding site overlooking the
miniature lake. Freshly painted, and
with a newly laid and still moist waxed
floor, — a rehabilitated "Villa Poulet."
The young people came in due time, and
danced by the light of the moon to the
accompaniment of a Victrola. ' When not
in use as a dancing pavilion, "Villa
Poulet" provides excellent quarters for
the chauffeurs of motorists, several cots
being brought into requisition for the
purpose at a m.oment's notice.
Miss Jefferson's most pretentious ar-
chitectural feat was the turning of a
seventy-five-year-old barninto a dwelling
place. That the building had originally
been built for a house was indicated by
the stone foundation, which according
to Miss Jefferson's keen judgment war-
ranted her undertaking. A living porch
in front, a kitchen and bathroom at the
rear changed the barn into a sloping
roofed dwelling. The 20 x 20 living
room has a fireplace built of cobblestones
picked up on the place. The inscription
on the hearthstone reads :
'The smaller the house,
The greater the peace."
A chamber of corresponding size above
the living room has dormer windows on
four sides, thus affording perfect ven-
tilation. There are long poles with
curtains arranged in such a manner as
to divide the chamber into four separate
bedrooms, if desired. There is an attic
arrangement for trunks in the rear.
The remodelling was done at a total
expenditure of $600 including the plumb-
ing and electric wiring. "Maesidea"
(Mae's Idea), as it was straightway
christened by an admiring brother, who
at first scoffed at the suggestion, rents
for $25 a month the year round.
Still another unique idea was the
creation of the lake with an island in the
center. When Miss Jefferson first began
the reclamation of her farm, she was
much annoyed at the sight of what had
evidently been a combination pasture,
duck pond and pig wallow. It was haJf
filled with m.ud, and was surrounded by
a tumbled down fence. With her con-
structive eyes, she immediately pictured
the lake as it appears today, a thing of
beauty and a joy to all who comie to
Bird House Inn.
Miss Jefferson had previously recon-
LIVING ROOAI IN BUNGALOW " MAESIDEA
352
AMERICAN COOKERY
noitered the pig wallow, and she already
knew that back of the clump of willows
flowed Silver Brook, but not until after-
wards did she discover that in addition to
the brook there were hidden springs only
awaiting an opportunity to bubble forth
and feed the prospective lake. First of
all, the "wallow" was still further exca-
vated, and the earth thrown up around
the willows, thus forming an island.
Meantime, Silver Brook, delighted to
serve so worthy a cause, began to flow
into the new channel. The hidden
springs released by the excavation, began
to bubble forth joyously, eager to do
their part. In due time a miniature foot
bridge was built over the lake, connect-
ing the mainland with the island. Rustic
seats around the willows afford a quiet
trysting place for Bird House Inn guests.
A wellhouse over one of the springs
has an old oaken bucket swinging from
its main beam, and crystal clear water
offers its refreshment to the wayfarer.
The wellhouse is covered with honey-
suckle, and within this leafy retreat a
robin builds her nest each year with utter
disregard of those who come and go,
evidently counting all as her friends.
Associated with Miss Jefferson in her
unique venture are two other young
women. Miss Emily Grace Kay, a prom-
inent musician of St. Paul, Minn., who
styles herself a "Professional Boarder" at
the Inn, and an exceedingly clever young
Domestic Science Person, a miniature
edition of the original Dolly Varden.
Miss Kay is responsible for all the
motorists' signs seen along highway and
byway on the Western Pike, the Dixie
Highway and the Chicago and Detroit
Road. Not satisfied with having sten-
ciled these signs with her own fingers,
she did not count her task completed
until she had nailed every sign in place
on telephone pole or fence. Her deft
fingers, too, are responsible for the sten-
ciled oilcloth table covers used on the
porches.
But both the Misses Jefferson and
Kay feel themselves of but little import-
ance beside the diminutive Domestic
Science Person who is in no wise non-
plussed when unexpected guests arrive
to the number of fourteen or so, and who
in less than an hour later is serving the
dinner she has cooked since the last
' ' Honk ! " of the car died away.
THE LITTLE DIETICIAN SERVES TEA
A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON
353
"She was warranted," laughs Miss
Jefferson, "and she lives up to it. They
told me she could execute a fowl without
fainting, build a fire that would continue
to burn, and broil a chicken while the
tea-kettle was boiling! She can do all
this and more!"
There is a ripple of merry laughter
that reminds one of Silver Brook, and
the small Domestic Science Person
appears in the doorway looking like the
original Dolly Varden. She is wheeling
the tea-wagon to the front porch, and a
second later the muffin-stand.
Guests have stopped for afternoon
tea, and the High Priestess of the tea urn
is serving both hot and iced tea with all
their accompaniments of lemon, mint,
cloves, ginger and peppermints, mean-
time passing delectable sandwiches and
cake of Bird House Inn's own brand.
"Ninety-percent profit on each twenty-
five cent tea service" frankly admits
Miss Jefferson. "The sandwiches are
made from left-over chicken and salads,
and we candy our own ginger and orange
peel. As to our dinners, we specialize
on the same one daily, and can tell to a
biscuit just how many will be consumed.
One dollar for dinner, one dollar for a
bed with accommodations for a car, and
one dollar for breakfast is not considered
an exorbitant charge. In fact, our
guests tell us that we do not ask enough
for what we give. We average 200
guests a month, though thrice that num-
ber could be entertained if we had ac-
commodations for them. Another
year — who knows?" And Miss Jefferson
waves her hands comprehensively.
A New Year Luncheon
By Helen Forrest
EVELYN has asked me to run
into town Friday for dinner,
the theatre and all night with
her," said Bess Leighton to her mother,
looking up from a letter the postman
had just given her.
"That's very mce," answered Mrs.
Leighton, "you've been home very
steadily of late. What will you wear,
Bess? I think we must finish your new
pink dress for this festive occasion."
"Oh, but I'm not going," declared
Bess soberly, "I am already indebted to
ever so many of the girls for some invi-
tation I have accepted. It was all
right when I could make a return, but all
entertaining is give and take and I shall
not accept when I cannot give."
Her mother looked steadily into the
flushed young face before her, ' ' and why, ' '
she asked, "can you no longer give?
Do you trust your friends so little that
you cannot welcome them to our
changed conditions?"
"Oh, mother!" Bess spoke impet-
uously, "you know I love Grandfather's
old home. I think it was the most
wonderful thing in the world that it
should have come to us when Father's
health and his business both failed, but,
mother, how could I ask the girls to
come an hour and a half out of New York
to this really country place which isn't
even a smart suburb, to follow this
country street. Then there is only old
Katie to help us if we tried to serve
dinner or lunch for them. Who knows
if they would even appreciate this dear
old house!"
"My little girl," her mother spoke
earnestly, "you must not let go these
school friends, warm-hearted, genuine
girls in spite of the so-called society life
which Evelyn and some of them lead.
354
AMERICAN COOKERY
The mere fact that you no longer have
your city home, and that this old place
of Grandfather's now shelters you, does
not change you. Welcome the girls to
your new home, you, too, have something
to give and you need not fear to accept
what these friends offer you."
Encouraged and half persuaded, Bess
accepted the tempting invitation from
Evelyn, the pink dress was brought out,
and over their busy needles the mother
and daughter discussed the possibilities
for entertaining.
It being early in December, Bess and
her mother decided that their house-
warming, so to speak, should occur at
New Year, the guests being given long
warning to insure their acceptance.
The six dearest friends, who had so
persistently dragged Bess from her rural
obscurity back to familiar and beloved
New York, were to be the first guests
in the new-old home.
Following the joyous acceptance of
the six girls, came busy hours of planning
and preparation. Advised by Mrs.
Leighton, Bess agreed that the charm
of the old home lay in its individuality
and that no attempt should be made to
give it a city atmosphere. The girls
were to know the house in its old-time
aspect, only brightened and cheered by
Christmas greens and many open fires.
That they might better become ac-
quainted with each of the four square
rooms of the lower floor of the big old
house whose two parlors, sitting room
and dining room with the kitchen, all
seemed surely built for hospitality, wise
Mrs. Leighton evolved an original plan.
Her scheme greatly favored honest
Katie, a good, plain cook with small
experience in serving, and likewise made
the preparations much easier for herself
and Bess.
New Year's Day saw a bevy of smartly
dressed girls alight from the train at the
little station, cheeks rosy and eyes bright
from their brief walk in the country air.
Over the front door hung a bunch of
mistletoe, and under it Bess kissed each
guest saying, ** Welcome, welcome to my
new home!"
Gay little Evelyn, the first of the
merry group to enter, stopped spell-
bound at sight of the wide, fire-lit spaces.
"Why Betty," she exclaimed, when
she had her breath, "you lucky girl!"
"Hurry up stairs, girls, and get your
things off," urged Mrs. Leighton, "this
is a country luncheon and we'll make
ourselves comfortable." A few minutes
later she ushered them into the front
parlor, warmed by a Franklin stove at
one end and a fire place at the other.
Old-fashioned landscape paper covered
the walls, a family portrait or two
regarded the guests benignly, dark
Brussels carpet covered the floor and
made a background for Mrs. Leighton's
treasured Persian rugs. Looking away
from the heavy old furniture, the de-
lighted girls saw a mahogany table and
eight high-backed chairs, the table
covered with linen doilies, and here
appeared the first installment of the
feast, grape fruit surmounted by maras-
chino cherries. Little place cards in-
dicated their seats, a big bunch of real
country berries were in the center. On
each card Bess had written a New Year
jingle and these were read to the gay 1
audience amid much applause.
"A blessing on the New Year day,
That brought you out this snowy way."
"Do keep on coming to my house,
Though I've become a country mouse."
'This simple life is not so bad
With here and there a country lad."
"Since we've begun the New Year right
Let's all keep in each other's sight."
"The New Year points an eager hand
To Grandpa's house and Grandpa's land.
"Pile on the wood, the air is chill,
We'll eat our New Year luncheon still."
"I got that last idea from an old
English verse," explained Bess honestly,
"I feel it but fair to say."
When the grape fruit was finished,
Bess led the way into the back parlor,
her mystified guests following on, and
1
A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON
355
swung open the folding doors which had
been carefully closed.
Here, too, was firelight reflected in the
brass candlesticks on the mantel; a
cabinet in the corner held carved toys
brought from distant lands by a sea-
faring uncle. A table held the center of
the room, steaming bouillon waited
them on an improvised holiday luncheon
set of crepe paper, in a poinsettia design.
"Come while everything is hot, girls,
and explore later," called Bess, and her
guests slipped informally into the horse-
hair covered chairs.
"And now for the country dining
room and a country menu," said Mrs.
Leighton when the bouillon with its
attendant saltines and olives, had been
appropriated.
The big square dining-room blazed
with sunshine; a coal fire shone in the
corner, rows of red-blossomed geraniums
flanked the windows and on the table
stood an old-fashioned holiday meal, a
big stuffed turkey with vegetables,
cranberry jelly, pickles and celery.
"I never saw anything so tempting,"
exclaimed one of the girls, "and such
lots of everything; the sight of that
whole turkey makes me positively
ravenous."
They sat long around the well-laden
table, enjoying the country food, looking
with interest at home-grown vegetables
which had never seen a market and
admiring the center piece of red and
yellow apples from the near-by orchard,
whose bare branches were now snow-
laden. Mrs. Leighton told them of
family gatherings in this same room
when uncles, aunts and cousins had
crowded this long table while she and
the other children sat at a little table in
the corner.
"Another move, girls," said Bess,
and the merry company rose to their
feet with bright anticipations of another
surprise.
"I must and will walk about a moment
Betty," said one of the girls, "this room
is the most fascinating of all and, further-
more, it is the part of wisdom to exercise
a bit before trying to eat any more."
The library warranted some enthu-
siasm, for here town and country had
blended happily. Low bookcases held
old books mingled with the Leighton' s
more modern library; a Grandfather's
clock ticked in the corner, the dark
wood of Bess' grand piano tuned well
with the prevailing scheme. The center
table, cleared of books and magazines,
held the now familiar pile of plates and
— joy of joys — two fragrant, spicy
mince pies!
"Made after my grandmother's own
rule," said Mrs. Leighton. "And the
best ever," chorused the girls.
"The last stop is the fireplace, my
dears," and Mrs. Leighton took her
place before the silver service at the low
table where dancing flames were sup-
plementing the failing sunlight. The
girls gathered about her, tiny cups in
hand. They perched upon the floor,
on chair arms or stray hassocks — a
contented group. Their soft voices min-
gled in plans for the New Year and in
praise for their country day.
"This wasn't a luncheon, it was a
dinner, Bess!"
"It's the nicest affair I ever attended,
— a progressive function served through
this fascinating house!"
"Send for me soon again, Betty, and
save me the shame of inviting myself."
"The lovely part is, that we have
found out how near by you are."
"It's the nicest house I ever saw!"
In the early twilight Bess walked
home alone from the little station where
she had waved a last good-bye to her
departing guests. Grandfather's house
was cheery with lights; a home now,
not just a refuge. Impetuously she
threw her arms around her mother, who
met her at the door.
"They loved our New Year luncheon
and the house!" she cried, "every bit
of it! They're crazy to come again,
and, mother, but for you I should have
lost them all out of my life."
Belgium and the Food Question
By Roy Temple House
Late Member of the American Commission for Relief in Belgium.
IT happened that at the time when a
group of us entered Belgium, there
were heavy movements of troops
across German territory, necessitating
the closing of the frontier to the Com-
mission autos which are ordinarily
allowed free passage between Holland
and Belgium. Under these circum-
stances, it was necessary for us to take
the Dutch train to the frontier, and the
Belgian train, — or more strictly the
German train, since the Belgian railroads
are now entirely in German hands, —
from the frontier to Brussels. In peace
times a through train makes the run
from Rotterdam to Brussels in three or
four hours ; in these troubled days hearts
beat fast but trains run slowly, and it
took us all day to reach the stricken cap-
ital. At Antwerp they unloaded us and
left us for two hours in the third-class
waiting-room, although we had second-
class tickets. We had had nothing to
eat since morning, and negotiations
with the waitress, which were compli-
cated by the fact that she could speak
neither French nor German and none of
us knew a word of Flemish, finally
resulted in the arrival of five portions of
heavy brown bread and ham sausage,
with coffee and sugar. The bread was
the Commission's " eighty-two per cent,"
with a portion of maize mixed with the
wheat; the sausage was painfully thin;
the sugar for the coffee, a coarse beet-
sugar, came on in tiny plates, like indi-
vidual butter-dishes. Being beet-sugar
there was scarcely enough to affect the
flavor of the coffee. Some one called
for more; the maiden, in determined
pantomine, refused to bring another
grain. The aggrieved American went to
the man at the counter and complained.
"My dear sir," said that functionary,
"you forget that you are in starving
Belgium. We are not allowed to serve
more than one helping of sugar to a
guest, at any price. We must conserve
the country's supplies." It was not the
last time certain Americans in Belgium
lacked sugar. The shop-windows in
Brussels are lined with cakes and pastry
which are veritable apples of Sodom for
want of sweetness.
Belgium is the most thickly-populated
country of Europe, her agricultural
resources are extremely limited, and
thousands of her people would probably
have starved, if Herbert C. Hoover,
placed in charge of the American Com-
mission for Relief, which was organized
soon after the beginning of the war, had
not secured the permission of the Eng-
lish government to import certain nec-
essary food-supplies. This permission
was not obtained without heroic effort.
"You are asking us to allow you to feed
our enemies," the English told Hoover,
"for feeding the Belgians is indirectly
feeding Germany." "I am asking per-
mission to keep life in the brave little
nation that saved you from defeat,"
said Hoover. "You English certainly
do not propose to repay them for what
they did for you by letting them starve."
And be it said to the eternal credit of
England, she consented to Mr. Hoover's
plan, although there had been a certain
elem.ent of justice in her objection. The
consent of Germany was more easily
obtained; but ever since the victualling
of Belgium began, there have been a
thousand difficulties and a thousand
objections, now from London, now from
Berlin, whose adjustment has made
Mr. Hoover's life a burden, and which
would probably long ago have disheart-
ened a man of ordinary resourcefulness
and ordinary patience.
The Commission imports only a lim-
356
BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION
357
ited number and amount of commodities,
on the basis of explicit agreements with
the EngHsh government. These com-
modities are grain from North and South
America, which is ground into flour of
uniform fineness in Belgian mills under
Commission supervision, and baked into
bread by Belgian bakers, to be' sold at a
uniform price fixed by the Commission;
lard and bacon; rice, peas and beans;
and occasionally a little more; but the
list is a drearily short one at best . There
are forty Americans in Belgium, sta-
tioned at the provincial capitals to see
that these supplies are properly distri-
buted to the Belgian population, and
that they are not distributed to the_
occupying Germ.ans. The instant Eng-
land conceives the suspicion that a cer-
tain commodity is reaching the Germans,
directly or indirectly, she withdraws
permission for the importation of that
commodity. Thus, when she learned
that a German decree had confiscated
all wool in Belgian territor}^ the Com-
mission was at once prohibited from
importing clothing. But it must be said
in general that the Germans are scrupu-
lously faithful in holding to their agree-
ment that Commission supplies shall go
exclusively to the Belgians, and that
England's confidence, not only, in Mr.
Hoover's disinterested fairness but in
the workableness of his plan, has been
amply justified.
There are a thousand detail difiiculties
in the way of carrying on the distribution
so as to satisfy both England and Ger-
many. For instance, only inhabitants
of the country are to be fed; agreed.
But who are inhabitants of the country?
What shall we do with the Germans, —
and there are thousands of them, — who
have made their home in Belgium for
years? Their interests are in Belgium,
they have helped to make the country, —
shall they be left to starve because they
happen to be of the same blood as the
occupying army? And if long residence
in Belgium is accepted as a claim to a
share of the Commission's supplies, just
how long must this residence have been?
This particular question was finally
settled by an agreement that bo7m fide
residence in Belgium before August, 19 14,
entitles the resident to a bread-card no
matter what his nationality; but this
question is only one of many which have
troubled the sleep of the Americans for
two years.
The food crosses the Atlantic in what-
ever bottoms the Commission can lay
hold of, - — and ships have been increas-
ingly hard to secure. More than one
Commission boat has struck a mine in
the Channel. If the cargo reaches Rot-
terdam in safety, it is transferred to a
Commission lighter, after which it makes
its way up one of the Dutch-Belgian
canals to a destination in Belgium or even
in the part of Northern France which
is occupied by the Germans, and which
is handled by the Commission almost
exactly as Belgium is handled. These
canal-boats, which are manned by Bel-
gian lightermen, need careful watching,
for their cargo has been known to dim-
inish unaccountably on the in-voyage,
and the out-bound trip has been made
with human freight of the masculine
gender and of military age. There is a
story that a lighter which came up from
the south with papers showing five on
board , including the skipper's wife, under-
took to pass the border with a crew of
six; and though one of the party was
manifestly a very recent arrival, the
boat was held till instructions came from
German headquarters in Brussels that a
new-born baby might be allowed to go
out of the country even though he could
show neither pass-port nor identity-
card.
Approximately one-third of the popu-
lation of Belgium is dependent on charity
and receives the Commission's supplies
gratis. The remaining two-thirds pay
a fair price for what the}^ receive, and
the modest profit on this part of the
enterprise pays part of the cost of the
charity; which is fortunate, since gifts to
the Commission are less generous than
358
AMERICAN COOKERY
they were when the work was still young.
The existence of the Commission is a
godsend even to the part of the popula-
tion which still has money, for it would
otherwise be impossible to secure suffi-
cient food at any price, to say nothing of
the moderate rates charged by the Com-
mission. Bread is cheaper in Brussels
than in Holland, England or Germany.
There is probably less suffering in Bel-
gium now than in Germany or Austria;
and it is the American Commission which
has made the difference.
Still, the Belgian is far from happy on
his present diet. He has never taken to
coarse breads as kindly as the German,
and the "eighty-two per cent" troubles
him. He is used to a highly-refined
flour, and brown bread is hard on his
stomach, — or he thinks it is, which
amounts to the same thing. He often
has a very real cause of grievance in the
soggy condition of the bread. Bakers
are constantly being haled before the
Commission for furnishing poorly-baked
bread, and universally represent that
they cannot dry their bread out properly
and at the same time keep it up to the
standard of weight which the Commis-
sion exacts. White flour can be ob-
tained only on a doctor's certificate,
except by the pastry-bakers, who are a
distinct class from the bread-bakers, and
many of whom are growing rich from the
horrible prices which they extort from
the sugar-starved population.
The American Commission has con-
ducted a campaign of education as well
as a charity and a great mercantile enter-
prise. For six months Horace Fletcher
beamed on Brussels as a volunteer mem-
ber; and several valuable recipe-books
have been issued through the good offices
of the Commission and its Belgian part-
ner, the "Comite National de Secours et
d' Alimentation." Indian corn, which
used to be sold in western Europe at the
apothecary shop and by the ounce, is
coming into its own as an inexpensive,
palatable and nutritious food. "Pork-
and-beans," — a phrase which the inhabi-
tants pronounce in one word, with as
little sense of its real meaning as we have
for the real Indian force of the word
succotash, — have been admitted in cans
at one time and another, and though
American beans are totally different in
flavor from the native haricots, the
inhabitants have eaten them and given
God thanks. For a year or more
Brussels had an "American store," — in
the same building with the Commission's
offices, — where a variety of American
canned products were to be had for a
fraction of what native canned goods
cost in the regular stores. Many a time
I have seen hundreds of patient citizens,
from every rank of society, standing
hours in line for a ten-cent can of pump-
kin or tomatoes. But the store was not
well managed, and was finally abandoned.
As for native products, they are grow-
ing scarcer and scarcer, and only mil-
lionaires can afford them. Meat costs
dollars a pound. The leading restaurant
in Brussels furnishes noon lunch to the
members of the Commission in the
Commission building, and the head-
waiter quarrels with the Americans if
they undertake to appropriate a second
slice of the roast. A confectioner who
had, as it happened, bought several
thousand pounds of sweet chocolate
just before the outbreak of the war
held it several months and sold it at a
profit of five hundred per cent. The
cost of living has been multiplied in-
stead of added, and this increase has
fallen most heavily upon the self-re-
specting middle classes, who were ac-
customed to living well but had little
or no margin of savings. The pro-
letariat is thriving under the present
regime. It is said that the infant
mortality of Brussels is lower than in
peace times, because the slum children,
at least, are better and raore intelli-
gently nourished. But the families of
school-teachers, artists, educated pro-
fessional men, who have been left penni-
less by the cataclysm, are suffering hor-
ribly, in body and in spirit. To a
BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION
359
greater extent than is generally known,
perhaps, prosperous Belgium herself has
taken care of indigent Belgium. A deli-
cate charity is the " Assistance Discrete,"
whose recipients, men and women of
refinement and education, receive their
dole by number and not by name; and
a widely-sold medal bears the legend,
" Donne et tais-toi " — " Give, and say
nothing."
But there are many much-needed
supplies which money will not buy in
Belgium. The Belgians are almost as
dependent on potatoes as the Irish
themselves, and as their native crop is
normally large, the Commission has
never been allowed to import potatoes.
For governmental purposes the part of
Belgium and Northern France which is
held by the Germans has been divided
into several distinct districts, and the
transfer of commodities from one to
another is a difficult matter. So it
came about this spring that while
potatoes were going to waste in the
West, Brussels had none. Brussels
without potatoes is like Naples without
spaghetti, and the city was dangerously
near a potato-riot.
Many Belgians, as well no doubt as
many residents of the other belligerent
countries, are finding their compulsory
dieting a blessing in disguise. A rich
notary of Louvain tells of himself that,
when the Germans took possession of
that city, they carried him off and kept
him prisoner in Western Germany for
three months. Used as he was to deli-
cately prepared foods, he found it almost
impossible to eat the stuff his captors set
before him; and even after he had suc-
ceeded in overcoming his repugnance in
some measure, his allowance was so
small that he fully expected to starve.
For the first time in his life he knew the
pangs of real hunger; but hunger does
not kill, and when he was finally re-
leased and shipped home, he discovered
that he was not only still alive, but much
more healthily alive than before. He
had gone into Germany a dyspeptic.
Now he was able to digest sole-leather,
and he felt the purely physical joy of
living as he had not known it since
childhood. There are some phases of the
Great War which are not wholly de-
pressing. Its vicissitudes and horrors
can never be described.
The Forest Elves
The forest elves are sounding
Their wildwood harps of gold.
O'er hill and dale resounding
Rings out the measure bold.
In every leafy hollow
The fairy revellers meet.
But — woe to those who follow
The dance of elfin feet!
The firefly lights are glancing
All down the shadowed way,
To light them to their dancing,
While the elfin harpers play.
O, hark! the haunting measure
Comes lilting up the glen!
But — 'ware the alluring pleasure,
Seek not the fairy men!
Christine Kerr Davis.
Talks to a Normal Class
By Mary D. Chambers
Atithor of ''''Principles of Food Preparation''''
v.— The Lesson, Continued.
The Art of Questioning
SOMEBODY has said that the art
of teaching is the art of question-
ing, that "we question things into
our pupils, and then we question them
out of them." Badly framed questions
will unfailingly quench knowledge — a
mode of "questioning out" not meant
by the one who framed the aphorism.
In the preparation of the lesson m.ore
time and thought should be given to
careful selection and wording of the
questions than to almost anything else.
Perhaps the first thing to remember is
that the questions should be attractive,
should arouse interest in the class, should
vivify and brighten up and stimulate as
much as a good game — they should be
as interesting to the child as any other
phase of the lesson. To this end the
teacher should constantly vary her
method of putting them, should guard
against getting into ruts in the form of
her queries, should introduce the unex-
pected, the surprise, once in a while, or
she might sometimes sugar-coat a ques-
tion in a brief anecdote or story. About
this I shall have more to say another day.
A question should, nine times out of
ten, appeal to the understanding rather
than to the memory. For instance:
"Nam.e the nutrient food principles and
give their uses in the body, " is a mechan-
ical and uninteresting question, which
could be answered from memory and in
a m.echanical and superficial way. But
if fram.ed in some such way as: "What
food principle do yon need more of in
proportion to your weight than I need?'
addressed to one of your twelve-year-olds
will come as a surprise, will be full of
interest, will instantly appeal to the
understanding, and will be a more real
test of the child's knowledge of the
nutrients and their function.
A question should never give too
much information, it should rather be
delightfully mysterious. I have heard a
teacher say: "A perfect food is one
which contains the five food principles
in good proportion to sustain life and
growth. Name some perfect food."
I have heard another say : "What makes
the bones of the little calf grow stronger
and firmer every week? What builds
up his muscles and gives him energy to
jump about the pasture? What other
young animals get energy and develop
growth of bone and muscle from some'
one food alone? What would you call
a food that is able to do all this?"
A question should not be so worded
that it can be answered merely by "Yes"
or "No," or by either one of any two
words. For example: "Does sugar
brown quicker than starch?" can be
answered by "Yes" or "No," and hints
at the answer the teacher wants.
"Which browns the quicker, starch or
sugar?" is little better, for the pupil will
be very likely to guess, the chances being
even that her guess will be right, and to
guess at an answer rather than to think
it out is to pursue the line of least resis-
tance — the most natural thing for child
or adult. "Why will your biscuits be a
better brown if you brush over the tops
with a mixture of sugar and water?"
seems to me a better way to get at the
generalization.
There is another kind of question
which to my mind is the worst of all,
this is the so-called "leading question."
This form of query is made use of by
skilful lawyers for the purpose of "lead-
ing" or prompting a witness to say what
they want him to say. ' ' Is rice a starchy
food?" illustrates this type of question
360
TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS
361
in the cooking class. It is time-saving
— also thought-saving — and is a kind
of question I very particularly despise.
All it demands of the pupil is passive
assent.
I have heard pedagogues utter warn-
ings against the elliptical question, such
as: "The temperature of water at the
simmering point is — ?" the student to
fill in only the missing word. A good
question should call for a sentence in
reply. Some teachers train their stu-
dents to incorporate every question in
the answer, thus producing a sentence
willy-nilly. "What is the effect of
paring potatoes before cooking?"
Answer: "The effect of paring potatoes,
before cooking is" etc. I like this
method of answering in a -written test
rather than cop^^ng out each question
before writing the answer as badly
trained students will do, but orally the
unnecessary repetition, the long-drawn-
outness of the answers would bore me
to death. Probably this is heretical,
you must not mistake for authority
what may be only prejudice.
In framing your questions try to make
them brief, simple in language, very
clear and unambiguous. One of the
finest and most inspiring teachers I ever
had, a man of international repute,
had an unhappy habit of making lengthy
big-worded questions, full of modifying
phrases and subordinate clauses, periodic
in structure and whole paragraphs in
length. You should see how the vivid
interest he could enkindle in his class
during the lecture would suddenly be
quenched, and the sparkle go out of the
faces, when he began his questions.
There was another professor who could
tune us all up at the end of the hour and
send us out of class stimulated by his
happier method of questioning. This is
no small gift.
As a general rule a question is better
addressed to an individual than to the
class, and — likewise as a general rule —
it is better to put the question first and
append the pupil's name last.
Questions should be adapted to the
ability of the individual to whom they
are addressed — but neither this nor any
of the other rules I have given should
be slavishly or unintelligently adhered
to. I had once a ver}^ mixed class, so
far as training and intelligence went.
There were three of four students who
could eat up and digest the difficulties
of the subject with splendid facility.
I used purposely to frame very hard
questions for them, they enjoyed so
much the use of their brains, and were
so quick to think, so ready with response
so full of pleasure in conquering hardness.
In the same class were two or three
back^^ard, timid, lovely girls, who were
very easily discouraged. I used to make
up questions for them that I knew they
could answer — nice easy ones — and I
quite plumed myself on my tactfulness
in adapting the burden to the back. I
thought I did it so very skilfulh^ In a
heart-to-heart talk with one of these
girls she told me it htuniliated her alwa^^s
to be given the easy questions. She
said she knew she could not answer the
difficult ones, but she did not like to be
singled out for nothing but eas}^ ones.
What blunderers we teachers can be!
At the same time that I hurt the sensi-
tive pupils, I suppose I fostered pride
and vanity in the brilliant ones.
Don't let your children wave their
arms wildly while some girl is trying to
think out an answer to a question.
Besides being not at all courteous, the
time and place for such violent exercises
is during the gymnasium period.
Where the point of the question lies
in the little "Why?" tacked on at the
end, it seems to lose force, and is often
ignored by the pupil. Thus, such a
question as: "Which did, the pared or
the unpared apple, bake the quicker, and
why?" had better be framed: "State
what you think is the reason why one of
the apples baked quicker than the
other."
In concluding this brief discussion of
the art of questioning, let me emphasize
362
AMERICAN COOKERY
the point that questioning is faulty, if
there is any personal consciousness.
The student should feel that the subject
is the great thing, not the glib, self-
complacent answer. The best answers
to the best questions should be con-
tributions to the good of the class, helps
to the elucidation of the subject for
their benefit — to stimulate the thought
and enthusiasm of the pupils.
The Birds' Christmas Tree
By Seymour See
IT was the day after Christmas in
California but Christmas was not
over. No, indeed! The birds had
not had their tree yet, and Peter, the
mocking bird, acted as if he knew it.
He was sitting up in the peach tree
watching the kitchen door, and calling.
He had a way of giving his tail a quick
little flirt and saying, "Good! Good" way
down in his throat. It sounded like
"Chug! Chug!" Then some times he
would call, "Peter! Peter! Hurry, hurry,
hurry !" his voice running right down hill.
This morning he was saying it all, and it
was so loud and clear that Clyde and
Ethel ran out to see him.
"Hello, Peter," called Clyde. "Are
you wishing us 'Merry Christmas' ?"
"Good! Good!" answered Peter, flying
a little nearer.
"All right, thank you ! Same to your-
self !" laughed Clyde. "Here is a bite of
meat, Peter, and now you skip. No
birds allowed in this yard for an hour."
"Hurry and go, Peter!" commanded
Ethel.** We'll whistle when we want you,"
and she followed Clyde into the house.
In a minute, the children came out
bringing with them a big branch that
had been cut off of their Christmas tree,
and they planted it in the middle of the
yard.
"Whew, it's big!" cried Ethel. "We'll
have to stand on a box to trim the top.
I'm going to get the wreaths," and she
ran into the house again for the wreaths
with the beautiful red berries that had
been hanging in their windows.
"Let's play that the berries are can-
dles," said Clyde. "They are so bright
and red, and there are about a million of
them, so we can put them on all the little
branches."
"All right! And we'll make swings of
the pop corn. The birds will like that.
Oh, there's Peter back again!" Sure
enough there was the mocking bird sit-
ting on the fence watching them, and he
suddenly called:
' ' Peter ! Peter ! Hurry, hurry, hurry !"
"Peter, you go right away. It's no
fair watching us. This is going to be a
surprise. Shoo!" called Ethel, shaking
her apron at him, but he was not afraid
and only flew to the peach tree where he
could see them even better.
"Never mind, Ethel, if he does look,"
whispered Clyde, "for he doesn't really
know whose tree this is. Now I am
going to tie on some of those shiny red
apples."
"Here," said mother coming out with
a tiny basket filled with bits of meat,
"here is the turkey for the birds, and here
is the salad," handing Ethel some lettuce
and long red peppers, "We must tie
the basket up in the very top of the tree,
or a certain little dog we know will smell
the meat first thing and eat it up in three
bites. Perhaps we shall have to keep
him in the house so that he will know he
is not invited to this tree."
"Mother, 
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