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Full text of "American cookery"

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http://archive.org/details/americancookery19unse_1 



COOKING OUT-OF-DOORS 



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AMERICAN 
COORERY 

FORMERLY X Rec'dX 

THE BOSTON 
:a)KING SCHOOLMAGAZINE 

F CULINARY- SCIENCEand DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS 






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JUNE-JULY, 1916 

Vol. XXI No. 1 






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PUBLISHED 

THE BOSTON COOKING 
5CH(!DL MAGAZINE C^ 

221 COLUMBUS Ay» 
BOSTON MASS. 



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For Pure Food and Household Economy 

It is essential in the making of raised foods that you choose a leavener 
of known purity and uniform strength— one that not only raises the cake, 
biscuit or muffin just right, but that adds something of nutritive value. 

RUMFORD 

THE WHOLESOME 

BAKING POWDER 

restores in part, the nutritious and health-g-iving- properties 
of which fine wheat flour has been deprived, making- all home 
baking- more nutritious, more easily digested and of better 
flavor and texture. Furthermore, you cannot help but re- 
alize a saving in money and material by using Rumford. 

Ask us to mail you, FREE, a copy of "Rumford Dainties 
and Household Helps." In their daily work Housekeepers 
will find this a most useful ard helpful book. 

RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R. I. 



SUMFORJl 



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For every penny of its selling price it g'ives tKe fullest measvire 
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American Cookery 



FORMERLY 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



VOLUMK XXI 



June-July, 1916 — May, 1917 




Published Monthly by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



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Copyright, 1916, 1917, by„Ti?,E Boston Cooking-School Magazine COo 









COMPLETE INDEX, VOLUME XXI 

June-July, 1916— May, 1917 



PAGE 

Ah Sing's Coals of Fire 202 

Apostles of the New 220 

Art in Cookery 299 

Artistic Flower Arrangement . . . . 102 

Bedside Breakfasts - . . 667 

Belgium and the Food Question . . . 356 

Birds' Christmas Tree, The .... 362 

Buckwheat, A Partial Substitute for Wheat 702 

Business Woman's Ideas of Housekeeping 684 

Cake and Cake-AIaking 540 

Cake Frostings 620 

Call of the Quail, The 623 

Care of Digestion, The 442 

Cast Thy Bread 439 

Center Ivlarket, Washington, 111. . . . 510 

Cooking Out-of-Doors 44 

Cross-Roads Tea House, The .... 518 

Crumbs from the Table d'Hote . . . 434-- 

Delights of Food Eaten al Fresco ... 99 
Diet Squad and the Average Housekeeper, 

The 595 

Dietetic Cure for Rheumatism ... 26 

Double Professional, A 106, 192 

Economies of the French Housekeeper, The 670 

Economy In Demand 380 

Economy in Food 460 

Editorials, 30, 118, 206, 286, 366, 446, 526 

606, 686, 766 

English Walnut Trees 204 

Farm Home-Study Tour, The . . . . 427 

Feeding Cupid 591 

Foresight and the Everlasting Question . 462 

Frau Baum's Torte 364 

French Cook's Batterie de Cuisine . . 752 

Grandmother's Ginger Cookies . . . 704 

Hallowe'en Merriment 200 

Hawaii's Immense Field of Pineapples, 111. 507 

HomecomlngjThe . . . . , , . 283 

Home Ideas and Economies, 51, 139, 227, 305 

386, 466, 547, 627, 707, 787 

Home Maker's Winter Vacation, The . 445 
Important Part Flowers Play orn the 

Luncheon Table 267 

Joseph's Pie Theory 675 

Lighthouse, The 464 

Luncheon Without a Maid, A . . . . 603 

Making a Living- Room of the Porch . 11 

Making of a Mouse, The 756 

Making the Back Yard Attractive . . . 747 
Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by 

West Swamp Mennonites . . . . 187 

Mary, The Queen of Custards . . . 599 

May Breakfasts 745 

Menus, 9, 42, 43, 130, 131, 185, 218, 219, 265 
297, 298, 345, 378, 379, 458, 459, 505, 538, 

539,585, 618,-619, 698, 699, 778, 779 

Morning Time, The 365 

Mountains, The 678 

My Mother's Cook Book 761 

Nature's Appeal Ill 

New Books 318,476,720 

New Year Luncheon, A 358 

On a Sleeping Porch 706 

On Being Early In the Country. ... 49 

Origin and Meaning of Culinary Terms 383, 624 

Our Daily Bread or Three Meals a Day . 132 

Paneled Walls for Small Houses ... 587 



PAGE 

Party for St. Valentine's Day .... 545 
Pedigree of the American Boiled Dinner, 

The 512 

Perfect Cake, A 196 

Phyllis Provides 115 

Pie and Patriotism, A True Story of a 

Thanksgiving Celebration . . . . 272 
Preparation of Food and its Relation to 

Health, The 524 

Preserving Eggs 222 

Pretty Salad Garnishes 304 

Psychological Boarding House, A . . . 679 

Shakespeare's Vegetables 137 

Silver Lining, The 66, 147, 242, 322, 400, 482, 558 

638, 716, 798 

Simplified Bungalow Life 116 

Standing In the Food-Line in Paris . .18 

Starving Humanity 284 

Stirrup Cup, The 195 

Student Dietitian, The ..... 597 

Suggestions for Five O'Clock Tea . . . 425 
Suggestions for Sandwiches and Simple 

Dinners for August 97 

Summer Drinks 135 

Talks to a Normal Class. . . .280,360,542 

S10,000 For a Dinner 431 

Therapeutic Value of Fruits and Vegetables 783 

Through Peace to Light 46 

Triumph of Trout Cookery, The . . . 522 
Vital Factor inthe Making of a Good House- 
keeper, A . . 759 

Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pav, A 347 

Wayside Oven, A '. . 225 

Weather to Order 112 

W^hat Does Your Face Say . . . .278 
What Housekeepers Need Know about 

Nutrition 700, 780 

Winter Dinner that Men Like , A . . 463 

Work and Wages vs. Years 110 

Ye Beefsteak House _ 275 

Yesterday and Today in Silver . . 765 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

Apples a la Manhattan 617 

Asparagus, with Cheese Sauce, 111. . 609, 612 

Asparagus with Melted Butter . . . . 774 

Barquettes of Peas and Radishes . . . 610 

Beefsteak, Round, and Potato Mold . . 691 

Beef Tenderloin, Chaudfrold of. 111. 34 
Beef Tenderloin, Minions of, Home Stvie, 

111.. ' . 370 

Biscuit, Buttercup 127 

Biscuits, Peanut Butter, 111 614 

Bisque, Pimento 449 

Bluefish, Filets of, Duxelles Style . . . 770 

Boiled Dinner, New England, 111. ... 292 

Bonnes Bouches, Cold 289 

Boulllion, Chicken-and-Tomato . . . 449 

Bread, Bran 614 

Bread, Gluten, 111 373 

Bread, Oatmeal, 111 533 

Bread, Steamed Brown, 111 613 

Breadstlcks, Bran 697 

Buns, Philadelphia Butter 217 

Butter, Maltre d'Hotel 453 

Cake, Blueberry Tea 37 

Cake, Bride's, 111. ' 41, 617 



111 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PAGE 

Cake, Good Plain Chocolate . . . . 777 

Cake, Graham Cracker, 111 40 

Cake, Heart, Decorated with Cherries, III. 536 

Cake, Lemon Queens. . ... . . 215 

Cake, Maple Syrup 776 

Cake, Nut, 111 373 

Cake, Ribbon, 111 . . 537 

Cake, St. Honore, 111. 696 

Cake, Sponge Pound, 111. . . . . . 536 

Cake, Sponge Pound, Heart's Valentine 

Style, 111 536 

Cake, Spring, 111. ....... 615 

Cake, Sunshine . . . . . . . . 777 

Cakes, Afternoon Tea, 111. 614 

Cakes, Brioche Coffee, 111 537 

Cakes, Heart .377 

Canapes, Anchovy-and-Egg .... 209 

Caramels, Quick Chocolate . . . . 377 

Cassolettes, Beet ........ 610 

Charlotte Russe, Christmas, 111. . . . 377 

Cheese Boats, Little 289 

Chicken, Casserole of, with Macaroni, 111. 531 

Chicken Galantine, Grape Decoration, 111. 293 

Chicken Left Over, Spanish Style, 111. . 533 
Chicken, Roast, Celery Stuffing, Sausage, 

111. . . ^ 370 

Chicken Saute . 125 

Chicken Smothered in Fresh Mushrooms, 

111 ^ 691 

Chicken Smothered in Oysters . . ». .457 

Chicken, Steamed, with Biscuit, 111. . . 292 

Chicken Timbale, Valentine Style, 111. . 531 

Chicken, Turkish 211 

Chops, Flank Ends of, en Casserole, 111. 454 
Chops, Lamb, with Bacon and Mushrooms, 

111 453 

Chowder, Fresh Fish, 111. . . . . 33, 121 

Clam Bannock, New York Style . . . 291 

Codfish, Creamed Salt, 111 611 

Cornbread, Country Style 129 

Corncake . 291 

Corn, Cream of, St. Germain .... 450 

Corn, Sweet, Roasted 126 

Cream, Chocolate Bavarian, 111. . . . 296 

Cream Glace, Tomato 614 

Cream, Pear Bavarian, 111. . . . . . 777. 

Cream, Vanilla Bavarian 697 

Crescents, Puff-Paste, 111 377 

Croquettes, Curried Fish, III 122 

Croquettes, Fish, 111 770 

Croutons, Extract of Beef-Ham . . . 124 

Croutons, Finger 530 

Crusts for Soup, Deviled 127 

Cucumbers, Stuffed . 126 

Custard, Molded 697 

Cutlets, Rice, with Peas and Cheese Sauce 612 

Cutlets, Stuffed Veal, en Casserole, 111. . 36 

Delight, Vassar's 216 

Dressing, Bread for Veal 772 

Dressing for Salad, French 37 

Dressing, Mayonnaise, 111. .... 456 

Dumplings, Peach, 111. ...... 127 

Dumplings, Apple, 111 535 

Dumplings for Veal Pot Pic . . . . 772 

Eggs .^ la Messina 122 

Eggs a la St. Jacques 690 

Eggs, Shirred with Asparagus, etc. . . 773 

Eggs Shirred with Sausage, 111. ... 37 

Figs Stewed, Lemon Jelly and Custard, 111. 536 

Filling, Marshmallow 38 

Fish, Baked in Crust, York Beach Style, 111. 290 

Fishballs, Jerusalem ....... 121 



PAGE 

Fishcakes, 111. 211 

Fish, Fried Filets of 456 

Fish, Point Shirley Style . . . . .210 
Fish, Sword or Chicken Halibut, Point 

Shirley Stvle, 111 210 

Flounder, Sur le Plat, 111 453 

Fondant, Balls, Chocolate, 111. ... 376 

Fondant, Chocolate 377 

Fondu, Cheese 213 

Forcemeat, Veal, for Ham 612 

Frosting, Boiled . ; 215 

Frosting, Caramel 777 

Frosting, Confectioners' 374 

Frosting, Confectioners' Chocolate . . 38 

Frosting, Mocha . ' 776 

Frosting, Ornamental, 111 374 

Frosting, Ornamental, Piping of. 111. . . 615 

Gingerbread, Scotch 215 

Gingersnaps, Bermuda, 111. .... 375 

Griddlecakes, Elizabeth's 129 

Halibut, Fried Whitebait Style . . . 611 

Halibut, Hearts of with Tomato Sauce, 111. 451 

Ham, Baked, Autumn Style . . . . 124 

Ham, Boned, Stuffed with Forcemeat, 111. 612 

Ham, Braised, with Dried Mushrooms . 34 

Ham, Deviled 212 

Heart of Palm, Bechamel Sauce, 111. . . 774 

Hermits 216 

Hermits, Molasses 617 

Hominy Boulettes, 111 773- 

Ice Cream, Alanhattan 127 

Ice Cream, Queen Style . . . . . . 128 

Jam, Rhubarb 697 

Jam, Tomato 128 

Jelly, Orange Mint 457 

Jumbles, Orange, Cocoanut, 111. . . . 375 

Jumbles, Wafer, 111 ." . . 376 

Junket, 111 777 

Kidneys, Brochette of Lamb . . . .452 

Lamb, Roast Leg of, 111 212 

Lamb, Roast Leg of, Breton Style, 111. . 123 

Leeks, Boiled, Hollandaise Sauce . . . 371 

Livers, Chicken, and Bacon .... 126 

Macaroni, Queen Style, 111 454 

Macaroons, Butter _ 617 

Moreno Mayonnaise 456 

Mousse or Parfait, Chocolate .... 296 

Muffins, Delicate 129 

Muffins, Golden Cream 217 

Muffins, Sally Lunn 217 

Mushrooms and Bacon, Brochette of. 111. 453 

Mutton, Brochette of. Deviled . . . . 452 

Noodles, Soubise Style 35 

Olives Stuffed with Anchovies .... 690 

Omelet, Melba Style, 111 39 

Onions, Puree of 770 

Oysters, Brochette of 452 

Oysters, Chaudfroid of 690 

Oysters in Ramekins, au Gratin, 111. . . 452 

Oysters, Villeroi Style, 111 532 

Parfait, Caramel Marshm'allow, 111. . . 695 

Pastry, Plain, Flaky . 295 

Peaches, Windsor Style, 111 127 

Pickerel, Fried, 111 210 

Pie, Apple Flaky Crust, 111 295 

Pie, Cream Rhubarb 38 

Pie, Filling for Pumpkin, 111 295 

Pie, Fish, 111 770 

Pie, Lemon, 111 694 

Pie, Pineapple 39 

Pie, Pineapple Filling ...... 39 

Popover, Choice 216 



COMPLETE INDEX 



PAGE 

Potato, Subrics of ....... 451 

Potato, Sweet, French Fried, 111. . . . 693 

Potato with Onion Puree . . . . . 613 

Potatoes, Franconia, 111 212 

Potatoes, Glazed . . . . . . . 372 

Potatoes, Home Style 457 

Potatoes, Hongroise . . . • . . . 457 

Potatoes, Parisienne 370 

Potatoes, with Cheese, 111 533 

Pudding, Banana ........ 695 

Pudding, Indian Style 129 

Pudding, Princess, with Alarshniallows . 128 

Pudding, Steamed (no eggsj . ... . 697 

Pudding, Steamed Date 216 

Pudding, X'irginia Kornlct 372 

Puddings, Little Bread, 111. : . . . . 455 

Punch, Fruit, 111 "41 

Punch, Mint 41 

Rabbit, Deviled . 212 

Rabbit, Tomato 456 

Ramekins, Cheese 212 

Rhubarb Baked with Raisins .... 697 

Rice, Creole 214 

Rice, Ristori Style 128 

Roll, Chocolate Marshmallow Cream, lil. . 38 

Rolls, Finger, 111 454 

Rolls, Parker House, 111 294 

Salad, Andalusian 693 

Salad, Asparagus-and-Salmon, 111. . . 692 

Salad, Asparagus, String-Bean-and-Pea, 111. 693 

Salad, Celery and White Grape . . . 293 

Salad, Chaudfroid of Salmon . . . . 534 

Sakid, Chicken, Early Summer Style . . 125 

Salad, Christmas Fruit, 111. . . . . . 373 

Salad, Cream Cheese 129 

Salad, Cream Cheese and Green Pepper, 111. 776 

.Salad, Fish in Shells, 111 290 

Salad, Ham-and-Egg, 111 533 

Salad, Heart of Palm, 111 774 

Salad, Lettuce, Cress-and-Tomato, 111. . 37 

Salad, Lima Bean 214 

Salad, Louise . . . . . . . . 456 

Salad, Potato, with Sardines and Olives. 1 11. 693 

Salad, Stuffed Tomato, 111 124 

Salad, Tomato-and-Celer>' -de-luxe, 111. . 293 

Salad, Tomato-and-Cucumber, 111. . . 213 

Salad, Tuna Fish, 111 291 

Sandwich, Open Club, Filene Style, 111. . 372 

Sandwiches, Open, 111 775 

Sandwiches, Tomato, 111 125 

Sardines, Fried 210 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 34, 293 

Sauce; Cheese ........ 613 

Sauce, Currant Jelly, for Ham .... 34 

Sauce, Tomato 214 

Sauce, Vinaigrette 775 

Sauce, Miss Wilbur's Hard .... 216 

Sausage, Cannelon 292 

Sausage, with Spinach and Poached Eggs, 

111 611 

Scrapple, New England 772 

Sherbet, Peach 127 

Shortcakes, Individual Strawberry, 111. . 4? 

Shrimps in Aspic Jelly, 111 33 

Souffle, French Cocoa 129 

Soup, Boston Baked Bean 209 

Soup, Chicken, 111 449 

Soup, Cream of Squash -. 610 

Soup, French Cabbage 530 

Soup, Leek-and-Potato 369 

Soup, i\Iock Bisque 530 

Soup, Oatmeal 690 



PAGE 

Soup, Tomato . . . . ' . . . . 290 

Squabs in Casserole ....... 36 

Sponge, Grape Juice, 111 616 

Sponge, Logan Berry, 111 694 

Steak, Breslauer, IMushroom Sauce . . 123 

Steak, Salisbury with Bacon, Hotel Style 369 

Steak, Spanish 772 

Sticks, Imperial 369 

Suggestions for April ...... 689 

Suggestions for February , . . . . 529 

Suggestions for Alarch 609 

Tart, Strawberry, 111 41 

Tarts, Cranberry 296 

Tarts, Melba, 111. ....... 696 

Timbale, Macaroni, 111. ...... 613 

Timbales, Baked Beans 213 

Timbales, Chicken-and-Rice, 111. . . . 371 

Timbales, Tomato, 111. . . . . . . 692 

Toast, Polly's Cinnamon 372 

Torte, Potato, 111 776 

Trilbys . . _ 537 

Trout, Brook, with Bacon 122 

Turnips, Fall 372 

Turnovers, Chicken-and-Ham . . . . 217 

Veal Loaf 35 

Veal, Rump Roast of. 111 771 

\'egetables, Curried . . . . . . . 214 

\"inegar. Raspberry 128 

Vol-au-Vent of Apricots, 111 616 

Wafers, Cornflake 694 

Waffles, Green Corn, 111 126 

Queries and Answers 

Apples, Baked, Time for Serving . . . 312 

Apples with Dates 232 

Beans, Boston Baked 391 

Beefsteak, Panbroiled, etc. . . . . . 552 

Beef Tea, Beef Extract, etc 394 

Biscuit, Graham 631 

Blancmange, Cornstarch and Sea Moss 

Farine 64 

Bouillon and Consomme 394 

Bread, Baking without Thermometer . 634 

Bread, Bran 234, 471 

Bread, Buttering at Table .... 793 

Bread, Dark Colored 62 

Bread, Graham 631 

Bread, Oatmeal . .391 

Bread, Temperature of, when Rising . 632 

Bread, Wh}* Coarse-Grained .... 792 
Bread, with Compressed Yeast, with Drv 

Yeast . . '.632 

Butter at Formal Dinners 712 

Butter, Cooked 144 

Cake, Divinitv, Fudge, with Frosting . . 236 

Cake, Fruit, Wholewheat 234 

Cake, German Coffee 62 

Cake, Graham Cracker 792 

Cake, Ideal Sponge 392 

Cake, Lady Baltimore 554 

Cake, Moist Gold 144 

Cake, Nut Loaf . . _• 636 

Cake, Spice, at High Altitude . . . 312 

Cake, Sponge, Potato Flour .... 554 

Cake, White Fruit . 552 

Cake, White with Marshmallow Frosting . 396 

Cakes, Butter 60 

Canapes, Horseradish 632 

Candle Light for Lighting . . . . . 632 

Candy, Divinity 396 

Candy, with Fondant , 392 

Caramels, Recipe for . . . . . .312 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PAGE 

Catering for College Girls . . . . . 236 

Catsup, Old-Time Tomato 74 

Cauliflower with Onion Sauce .... 472 

Center-Pieces, Round . . . . . . 232 

Cheese Balls, Cream 791 

Cheese Balls for Soup . . . . . . 311 

Chicken, Panned 60 

Chili Con Carne ^58 

Chop Suey 714 

Chutney . . . . . . ... .146 

Cocktail, Fruit, Service of 144 

Cookies, Peanut Butter 636 

Courses for a Formal Dinner .... 143 

Cream, Date-and-Marshmallow . 792 

Cream Puffs, Time to Serve. .... 792 

Croquettes, Canned Shad 312 

Cucumber, Sweet Pickled 74 

Cup in Meat Pie 712 

Custard, Renversee 236 

Custard, Royal 710 

Custard, Tapioca 231 

Cutlets, Lamb, Laura 631 

Diet for an Anaemic 472 

Diet in Case of Gall Stones 396 

Dishes for Fireless Cooker . . . . 143 

Dishes to Serve with Baked Beans . . 712 

Dishes to Serve with A4acaroni . . . 812 

Doughnuts, Why Crack 556 

Dressing, Boiled Salad 392 

Dressing Mayonnaise 471 

Dressing, Russian Salad 511 

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad . . 394, 554 

Dressing, Whipped Cream .... 392 

Dumplings, Potato 311 

Eclairs with Chocolate Frosting . . . 396 

Eggs, as a Typical Food 712 

Eggs for Luncheon Dishes 472 

Eggs, Poached with Onion Puree . . . 472 

Egg Shell, as Food, Dissolved . . . . 712 

Eggs, To Preserve for Winter Use . . 145 

Etiquette, Table 794 

Fat, Care and Use of 470 

Figs, Stewed, with Cream 232 

Filling for Cream Puffs 230 

Finger Bowls at Luncheon 311 

Flour for Pastry and Cookies . . . . 551 

Fondant, Uncooked 710 

Food, Cost of, per Person 310 

Food Exhibits for Schools . . . 312 

Food for Fifty Persons 145 

Food, Lists of. Cooked at Same Temperature 392 

Foods Containing Iron, Calcium, etc. . . 472 

Foods for a Formal Dinner . . . . 143 

Gingerbread with Whipped Cream . 232 

Grissini 714 

Hash, Heavenly 711 

Hors d'Oeuvres, Sjcandinavian .... 632 

Husband and Wife at Dinner, Seating of . 713 

Ice Cream Junket 232 

Icing, Confectioner's 791 

Icingfor Angel Cake 72 

Icing, Soft Boiled ....... 791 

Jcing, Soft White ■ . . 791 

Luncheon, Four Course 631 

Luncheon, Four Course, Pink and White . 714 

Luncheon, June ........ 60 

Macaroons Oatmeal 711 

Marmalade, Amber 551 

Marmalade, Pineapple, Grapefruit, etc. . 636 

Meat and Vegetables, Substitute for . 62 

Meat, What to Serve with 312 

Menus, Regarding Weil-Balanced . . 58 



PAGE 

Mignon or Minion 556 

Milk, Goat's for Babies 793 

Muffins, Bran 234 

Muffins, Cheese, (high altitude) . . . 312 

Muffins, English, and Crumpets . . . 634 

Muffins, Oatmeal 632 

Muffins, Rice 470 

Muffins, with Cold Cereals 632 

Napkin, Table, Disposition of, After Meal 712 

Newspapers, Keeping of 146 

Oatmeal in Bread, etc 710 

Omelet, Rum 311 

Omelet, Spanish 554 

Onions Stuffed with Sausage, Rice, etc. . 472 

Peach Melba 792 

Pep.pers, Uses for Green 314 

Pickles, Sweet Cucumber 796 

Pie a la Mode ; 311 

Pie, Chocolate 470 

Pimientos, Canned 62 

Polenta, Italian 710 

Porksteak, Ham and Sausage, Cooked in 

Frying Pan 552 

Potato Cooking 711 

Potato Souffle 310 

Potatoes au Gratin 714 

Potatoes Why they Stick to Frying Utensil 711 

Preserve, Citron Melon 310 

Preserves and Pickles, Damson . . . 234 

Pudding, Baked Indian 556 

Pudding, Cornstarch, with Chocolate Sauce 231 

Pudding, Date and Tapioca .... 145 

Pudding, Rebecca with Sauce .... 64 
Puddings, Queen of. Mock Indian, Apple 

Tapioca 231 

Prune Kuchen 232 

Recipes, Number of Portions in . . 396 

Relish, Hebrew, Pepper, Philadelphia . . 146 

Rice, Boiled 231 

Rolls, Crust}' Dinner 470 

Rolls, French 55 

Salad, Canned Shrimp . . . r . . 314 

Salad, Frozen Fruit 231 

Salad, Lima-Bean and String-Bean . . 72 

Salad, Potato 56 

Salad, Prune-and-Pecan Nut .... 56 

Salad, Tango 56 

Sandwiches, Cheese-and-Nut .... 56 

Sauce for Polenta 710 

Sauce, Hot Butter Scotch 62 

Saucers, Regarding 712 

Scones, Scotch 145 

Scrapple, Philadelphia 556 

Shad, Canned, with Mushrooms. . . . 312 

Sherbet, Grape Juice 55 

Sherbet, Strawberry 55 

Soap, Home-Made 146 

Soap, Toilet . 791 

Soup, Green Turtle . 314 

Sponge, Pineapple Tapioca .... 232 

Steak, Broiling of 230 

Stew, Red Kidney Bean ..... 472 

Strawberry and Raspberry Juice, canned . 145 

Suet in Steamed Puddings . . . . 711 

Sugar, Brown, for Pickles 711 

Sugar, Confectioner's and Others . . . 556 

Tea and Coffee Pots, Construction of . . 712 

Tea for Seventy-Five Guests .... 474 

Veal Birds . 551 

Vegetables, Macedoine of 56 

Viscogen 391 

Wafers, Laxative . _ . 710 



Menus for June Weddings 



WEDDING BREAKFAST 



Unhulled Strawberries with Leaves 

Breaded Filets of Fresh Fish, Fried, 

Sauce Tartare 

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Onion Juice 

Rolls 

French Omelet with Creamed Asparagus 

Baba, Raspberry Sauce 

Coffee 



II 

Individual Baskets of Unhulled Strawberries 

(Choice and well cleaned) 

Breaded Sweetbreads, Saute, Green Peas 

Norma Salad 

Parker House Rolls 

Strawberry Sherbet 

Bride's Cake 

Coffee 



III 

Pineapple-and-Orange Cocktail 

Salmon Croquettes, Green Peas 

Olives Radishes 

Broiled Squabs on Fried Hominy, Cress, French Dressing 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce 

Bride's Cake 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

Coffee 



WEDDING RECEPTION 



I 

Assorted Cake 

Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce 

Fine Fruit Punch 



II 



Bride's Loaf Cake 
Grapejuice 



Chaudfroid of Veal and Chicken Loaf 

Macedoine of Asparagus, Carrots, Potatoes, 

Tomatoes, 

Mayonnaise or French Dressing 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

Coffee 




FRUIT PUNCH 



Page 41 



American Cookery 



Vol. XXI 



JUNE-JULY, 1916 



No. 1 




PORCH LIVING-ROOAI, OUTDOOR VIEW 



Making a Living-Room of the Porch 

Or, " Vacations on the Half Shell " 

By Jane Vos 



FROM the moment we are first sere- 
naded by our bird neighbors just 
back from the Southland, there is 
a feeHng of "wanderlust" in the air. We 
long to be outdoors tramping in the 
meadows or jogging along country roads 
under the blue sky. But, alas! to many 
of us vacations are sometimes not pos- 
sible. If this is the case, why not try 
a porch vacation this year, and know the 
joys of home comfort plus living in the 
open? In other words, if you cannot go 
to the mountains or seashore, why not 
bring one or the other to your own door ? 



Like Molly-Make-Believe, you can enjoy 
a whole lot in your very mental attitude. 

Any city or suburban residence that 
boasts even a tiny porch space can be 
arranged to have an effect of coolness 
and comfort. If there is no porch, a 
little ingenuity can convert even a small 
roof space into a desirable summer liv- 
ing room. A few beams, a little car- 
pentry work, a Venetian bhnd or two, 
possibly a canopied awning, and your 
improvised room is ready for furnishing. 

Awnings are ugly to look upon, but 
they are exceedingly practical. Vene- 



11 



12 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tian blinds in pale green or the natural 
tan colorings are attractive and, happily 
for most of us, inexpensive. A cheap 
screen if well taken care of may be made 
to last at least three seasons, and then 
not look shabby. 

Many women prefer the natural straw 
colored bamboo screens, but there is 
something so cool and restful about the 
apple green that this color seems pref- 
erable for summer use. Furthermore, 
this shade makes a superb background 
for the palms, ferns and other growing 
things on the porch. 

The main advantage of the porch 
blind is that, while the occupant behind 
it cannot be seen by passers-by, he may 
behold all that is going on in the street, 
if he wishes. Then, too, one can have 
immediate privacy without waiting for 
vines to grow. Personally, I always 
wish at least one end of the porch 
screened with vines. There is such a 
wealth of greenery among the ever- 
bearing hardy roses and climbing plants 



that when it comes to making a selec- 
tion there is an embarrassment of riches. 
The rose tribe, for example, has an ex- 
tensive family tree, and it is really diffi- 
cult to choose from among all these 
beauties. Dr. Van Fleet can be recom- 
mended, however, as it excels all other 
climbers. "Silver Moon" is a hybrid 
of the Cherokee, and it has creamy 
white, semi-double blossoms with con- 
spicuous golden stamens. "Rose Wich- 
uriana" grows as high as ten feet in 
one season, forming a dense mat of very 
dark green, lustrous foliage. The flowers 
are single, pure white with a golden 
yellow disc, from five to six inches in 
circumference, and are strongly scented. 
As to the ramblers, nothing in the entire 
rose family is more beloved for embower- 
ing a porch. 

Other hardy, quick climbing vines 
are the well-known Virginia creeper; 
tuberous rooted, purple wistaria; the 
white and blue wistaria; the hardy yel- 
low jasmine, which blooms on its naked 




INDOOR VIEW OF THE PORCH 



MAKING A LIVING-ROOM OF THE PORCH 



13 




ATTRACTIVE AND COMFORTABLE 



stems; the white jasmine that blossoms 
after the fohage is set; the Chinese 
matrimony vine with bright purple 
flowers succeeded in the fall by brilliant 
scarlet berries. Bitter sweet, too, is much 
favored because of its orange-scarlet 
trumpet-shaped flowers, followed by the 
brilliant scarlet berries, which remain to 
gladden our hearts all winter, when the 
leaves of our beautiful roses and vines 
are withered and dead. So each has its 
advantage. But is there a woman who 
can quite resist having a fragrant golden 
honeysuckle to joy her heart with its 
sweetness all summer, and to attract 
the ruby-throated humming birds and 
numerous glorious songsters? 

Meantime, while the question of 
screening is being settled, it will be a 
good plan to stain the floor of the porch, 
finishing with a coat of outside varnish. 
This will keep it in good condition all 
summer, and make it far more livable. 
Furnishing is now in order. 

Many women have an idea that all 
cast-ofl chairs are good enough for 
the porch, but if the latter is to serve 



as a living-room, it must be made as at- 
tractive as possible, and there must be 
a definite color-scheme to start with, 
otherwise it will be a hodge-podge, in- 
stead of a cool, restful retreat. If all 
the old chairs are to be brought into 
requisition, they should, at least, be 
treated to a coat of white or green paint. 
Three coats would be better. If the 
former, plain, apple-green denim or 
fiowered chintz should be chosen for 
couch, table and chair covers and couch 
cushions and coverings. A gray or 
apple-green grass or rag rug will give 
the finishing summery touch. Small 
side tables for games, a combination 
settle and tea-table, a good sized read- 
ing table for magazines, books, etc., if 
the porch will admit of such furnishing, 
and, of course, a couch or swinging ham- 
mock will add to its comfort and repose. 
If the chairs are to be painted green, 
black chintz with a pink rose design will 
be found most attractive for cushions. 
Table and couch coverings of the same 
will be much admired. In fact, an in- 
spection of the summer fabrics in the 



14 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



upholstery section of any department 
store will give many new ideas upon this 
all-important subject of furnishing at 
small expense. Or a two-cent stamp 
will bring samples to your own door. It 
is certainly not a question of abundant 
means, but good taste that will make 
your summer living room a success. 

Although there is a great variety in 
the furniture that may be chosen, there 
are certain characteristics that must be 
regarded. Everything must be light 
and easily movable, or else substantially 
made of weather resisting material. 
With a triple coating of outside varnish 
or paint on the floor of the porch, a good 
rug or two, the fundamentals are dis- 
posed of. Reed rockers and arm chairs 
may be bought for as low as ninety-eight 
cents in large sizes, and less in the smaller 
ones which are not so desirable. Wil- 
low or rattan furniture may be left the 
natural coloring to match the screens, 



if preferred. If painted, white and green 
are the staple colors. At least one 
steamer chair will be found a great com- 
fort, as the swing divan or couch never 
looks so alluring as when another is occu- 
pying them. If there is an alternative 
in the shape of a steamer chair, the day 
is saved. 

When swinging hammocks first came 
out, they were regarded as luxuries only 
meant for the very rich and they were 
priced accordingly. Now they may be 
purchased at ridiculously low prices. 
Home-made ones, however, are easily 
made if desired. A woven wire cot with 
collapsible legs, for example, will make a 
splendid swing divan. A few yards of 
heavy rope or a ship's cable will be re- 
quired for suspending this heavy ham- 
mock. At night the legs may be let down 
to the floor, if the couch is swung at just 
the right height to permit of this, and 
the hammock thus serve as an outdoor 




,,^4CIOUS AND^kE^r^lT, , 



MAKING A LIVING-ROOM OF THE PORCH 



15 




FOR FRESH AIR 



sleeping bed without the swaying motion 
so objectionable to many. In this event, 
the cot divan mattress may be encased in 
green or tan denim, and thus be a fin- 
ished product by day as well as night; 
or a couch cover may be used. If so, 
do not trust to its vagaries for keeping in 
place. Sew a piece of heavy ribbon or 
tape at each corner and secure to the 
cot. Better still, have a button and 
buttonhole in each corner or snappers to 
save time. 

Even a woven-wire bed spring, minus 
the cot, may make an acceptable swing 
divan, if there is a mattress to fit it. A 
chain fastened to each corner of the 
spring and suspended from heavy hooks 
in the porch ceiling will secure it amply. 
When the mattress is covered with a 
heavy steamer rug or encased in a denim 
covering, it is as luxuriously comfor- 
table as one could desire, and bears all 
the earmarks of the expensively pur- 
chased commodity. A pair of single 
bedsprings may, also, be encased in ship's 
canvas, leaving two projecting ends with 
a brass rod run through the top hems, 
,and.hea:v;y,xings from which to suspend. 



the rope ends that pass on up to the 
ceiling. In this case, the mattress 
should be upholstered separately. 

A combination table and settle is al- 
ways useful. When the tea things are 
not in use, it provides a receptacle for 
them, and covers them from dust and 
dirt, the bete noir of jthe good housekeeper 
in summer time. A small electric grill 
and tea kettle should also find its 
place in the equipment, if there is elec- 
tricity. It is a simple matter to run 
the cord from the stove through an open 
window to the nearest electric light fix- 
ture, and there attach the plug. In fact, 
the latter need not be removed all sum- 
mer, unless this particular lamp is 
needed. Merely detach the cord from 
the stove, and pass the remaining length 
through the window to be left coiled 
there in some convenient receptacle until 
again needed. A maidless breakfast 
will thus be a simple matter, for the tea 
kettle will boil in short order for drip 
coffee or the percolator and eggs, while 
crisp, golden slices of toast will be 
served fresh from the toaster. After- 
noon tqa may also, be quickly prepared 



16 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



for the caller, and tempting lunches be 
made ready on short order. 

As an aid to this outdoor service, a 
small nursery ice box in the shadiest 
corner of the porch will be found a great 
convenience. I know one woman who 
keeps her refrigerator on her front porch 
throughout the summer, though no one 
would ever suspect it. To be sure, her 
porch is an exceptionally commodious 
one, well screened with dense foliage. A 
large white enameled four-ply denim 
screen, upholstered in old blue, by the 
way, to match the rest of the porch 
things, stands in front of the ice box. 
In the opposite comer, behind the screen, 
also, is a gas plate attached to the near- 
est gas jet in the house. And such de- 
lectable dinners as are served on that 
porch ! 

Another convenience on a certain 
porch that serves as a living-dining 
room, is a sort of a push gig on wheels 
with four trays that fit in sliding grooves. 
On these trays the food and dishes are 
trundled to the porch in one trip. Such 



a tea-wagon may be bought in any de- 
partment store, but if there is a handy 
man in the house, he can easily make one 
at almost no expense. Such a one, will 
also prove far more commodious. A 
frame work of wood, four trays, a pair 
of rubber-tired wheels from an abandoned 
go-cart, to attach to the front legs of the 
"gig," and you have a tea- wagon that 
no shop can duplicate for fifteen dollars. 
Casters may be adjusted to the rear 
legs to facilitate the trundling process. 

The same man who was clever enough 
to devise the tea-wagon also elongated 
his porch by sawing out a portion of its 
end rail, and adding a swinging settle to 
this alcove. At the other end, he sawed 
out the railing also and made a built-in 
seat, with a canopied top. This length- 
ened his porch about seven feet. 

City dwellers, who live in rented flats, 
apartments or porchless homes need not 
despair, for still others are proving 
"Where there is a will, there is a way." 
There is more and more rebellion against 
indoor living, and even roof spaces are 




FOR SUMMER OR WINTER USE 



JUNE'S MESSAGE 



17 



being utilized for living-rooms. A clever 
idea is shown in two of the illustrations, 
indoor and outdoor. This living-room 
porch was built over an extension roof, 
steamer-deck fashion. A simple frame- 
work was erected to hold the canvas roof 
covering and side awnings in place. 
Wire screened sides further simulate the 
deck idea. The canvas and awning were 
the only investment aside from the stove 
pipe and the carpentry work. The stove 
pipe, by the way, joins the chimney of the 
house, passing from it to the range in 
the outdoor living-room. This stove is 
found a great convenience on rainy, 
damp days, and its heat when in use for 
cooking purposes is never felt. The lino- 
leum on the floor withstands the ele- 
ments, and it is easily wiped up after a 
rainstorm. A few boxes filled with ferns, 
and motherwort vines around the rail- 
ing, help to form a screen. 

Canopied awnings on standards that 
are easily moved from place to place are 
useful roof accessories. A few beams 
erected, pergola fashion, and painted 
white, afford ample support for canvas 



awnings. Japanese lanterns suspended 
from these in the evening give a charm- 
ing effect. To avoid the danger of fire 
an electrician can easily wire for such 
lighting at small expense. Brick walls 
may be covered with Boston ivy, and 
climbing vines may be planted in boxes 
to shut out an unsightly wall. Morn- 
ing glories in green window boxes trained 
on wires to a support, will be most at- 
tractive in a roof-garden. These sup- 
ports will also serve as a framework for 
Japanese matting or canvas to give an 
air of real coolness and repose to an 
otherwise barren spot. 

A couch constructed as described in 
the foregoing, may be commodious 
enough for all night sleeping in favor- 
able weather, as well as for daytime 
beauty naps. 

All these little breathing spots, al- 
though suggestive of dainty mending 
baskets and things to embroider, will 
also suggest to the men of the family a 
newspaper, a pipe and a good cigar. 
''Where there is a will, there is a way" 
for an at-home vacation. 



June's Message 

,0 lovely June! thy balmy air, 
Thy nodding dandelions so yellow, 
Thy perfumed roses everywhere. 
Thy joyous birds with voices mellow, 
Thy brooklets rippling through the wood, 
Breathe messages of brotherhood! 



"All nature is akin," they say, 
"In sympathetic harmony, 
And gladly God's commands obe}^ 
To make life one grand symphony! " 
Thus gentle nature doth attune 
Thy charmed elements, O June! 

But will she weave her magic bond 
To compass aU humanit}^. 
And kindle hearts to correspond 
With thine, O June, in amity? 
Time only will divulge her plan — 
BASE WAR or BROTHERHOOD OF MAN! 
Caroline Louise Sumner. 



Standing in the Food Line in Paris 

By Blanche McManus 



STANDING in the food Hne in 
Paris is both an amusing and an 
aggravating period of the feminine 
day's work. Don't make the mistake 
of thinking that this means getting some- 
thing for nothing in these necessitous 
war times. It only indicates the way 
we have to shop in the super-groceries 
of Paris at all times; that is, we get into 
line and await our turns, as is the Paris 
grocery fashion, and like all Paris 
fashions it is entirely peculiar and 
unique unto itself. It is as if you were 
buying a ticket. It is a meal-ticket, 
in fact, that costs double what it once 
did and the Frenchwoman, most care- 
ful and conscientious of housekeepers, 
fairly raves over the present food-prices 
which have jumped fifty to a hundred 
per cent since the war has tangled up 
her housekeeping routine. 

For the super-grocery itself, it has 
been a sunshiny period of more than 
usual opulence in profits. There are 
half a dozen of these super-groceries 
in Paris, each with establishments 
distributed in various parts of the city. 



and in some cases branch houses through- 
out the country, all co-operating to the 
general end. The peculiarity is that 
these establishments are really grocery- 
markets, and besides they are in most 
cases actual manufacturers, or assem- 
blers, of most of the products which 
they sell. It is the department store 
idea applied to the selling of food with 
unusual elaboration, and as a result 
it has brought every style of eatable 
together in one store from the de luxe 
can and package goods, through meats, 
to fruits and vegetables, so that the 
Frenchwoman can do her day's buying 
of provisions under one roof. 

The mixed character of the super- 
grocery makes for a curious mixture of 
inconvenience and luxuriousness. Their 
installation tends towards both hygienic 
and ornamental effects, usually of 
white marble and tiling with much 
plate glass and effective brass and 
nickel finishings, while elaborate, sym- 
bolically designed friezes decorate the 
walls of the various departments with 
pleasing effect. Meanwhile the floors 




NEW METHODS IN 



Types of Parisians waiting in line in a Super-Grocery. 



STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS 



19 



are strewn with fine sawdust, which 
is brushed, up frequently, after the 
homely, but efficient provincial French 
fashion of keeping floors clean. While 
the grocery department proper has 
an imposing facade of plate glass win- 
dows and doors they are something 
in the nature of stage-scenery, as the 
remainder of the store is practically 
arcaded entrances, which stay open 
winter and summer to accommodate 
the crowds that surge in and out. There 
is yet another anomaly for most have 
installed perfectly appointed tea-rooms. 
But the greatest peculiarity of the 
super-grocery-market is its method of 
doing business, and this results in the 
food-line. There is nothing in the way 
of the usual counter, only long table- 
like shelves on which the varied comes- 
tibles are laid out, each ticketed with 
its price, as on a bargain counter 
in a department store, nor are there any 
stools or chairs in the place. You may 
walk around and inspect the goods at 
your leisure and no one will disturb 
you by coming up and demanding what 
you wish to buy. The smartly attired 
floor- walker is non-existent, also the 
black-coated shop clerk. Instead, there 
are young men in long white working 
blouses and active young women wear- 



ing business-like aprons, all rushing 
about but paying not the slightest 
attention to you. This is bewildering 
to a stranger to the customs. 

In this way you begin your personally 
conducted trip after food. Instead of 
going to a counter to be waited on, you 
take your place at the end of a long line 
of waiting customers beside a railing in 
front of one of the cashier's desks, 
of which there is one for each depart- 
ment. The universal rule of the French 
department store of whatever nature 
is that the customer herself pays at the 
desk. 

You wait while each clerk brings her 
customer up to the desk, sees that she 
pays her bill and hands her her parcel. 
As the clerk finishes with her customer, 
she picks another one from the waiting 
line. As your turn comes you tell the 
young woman clerk what it may be 
that you wish to purchase and then 
meekly follow her from counter to 
counter and help her to find it. When 
she has succeeded in collecting to- 
gether all the articles which 3^ou may 
have wanted from the department, 
she brings you up to a double wrapping- 
table where there is already collected 
a struggling mass of women shoppers, 
each trying to keep track of her in- 




THE FOOD BUSINESS 

It's a case of waiting patiently until a clerk comes up and beheads the food line for a customer. 



20 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



dividual clerk and purchases, which 
principally results in blocking the way 
of the workers. In the melee you 
stick as best you can to the clerk's 
elbow as she calls off your order to be 
checked up by the head controller. 
After which your young woman, lei- 
surely hunts up wrapping paper and 
twine in which to do up your parcel, in 
such a casual way, too, that the chances 
are it falls apart before you get it home. 
The inability of the French shop em- 
ployee to tie up properly a parcel, is 
almost a national failing and comes 
from generations of a lack of training 
in this art, caused by the habit of the 
Frenchwoman of all classes to go food- 
shopping with a market basket, or a 
large net bag, called a filet, on her arm 
in which to carry home her purchases. 
Back of this stands the French fetish 
of economy as practised by the little 
grocery, which neither wraps up nor 
delivers its customers' parcels. Its 
limit of indulgence in this line is to 
hand out a client's sugar or salt loosely 
laid in a piece of last year's newspaper, 
bought of junk dealers especially for 
this purpose. 

It was one of the big innovations in 
the business of food, when the super- 
grocery introduced the chic style of 



doing up a customer's purchases in 
stout and presentable brown paper 
parcels, while it was considered on a 
par with a revolution when it in- 
stituted still more recently the function 
of the delivery of parcels. In spite 
of which the bulk of the customers still 
bring their basket, or filet, not only be- 
cause the Frenchwoman clings to old 
customs, but for the reason that even the 
super-grocery will not make deliveries 
of goods under the value of ten francs 
— a method of business that would 
surely chill patronage in America. 

When your white-aproned young 
woman does hand you your parcel, it 
is with the stern injunction to have 
your exact change ready. This is an 
irritating imposition, which the super- 
grocery especially perpetrates on its 
clients, a result of the rarity of small 
change in France since the beginning of 
war, caused by nervous people hoard- 
ing their silver and copper coins. 

Finally, you complete your circular 
tour by returning to the same desk from 
which you started, here to pay your 
bill, where a man stands by to check off 
the amount and see that the cashier 
gives out the correct change. At last, 
the young woman clerk can wash her 
hands of you and is at liberty to behead 







When your turn comes you follow your clerk around the store while she gathers up the 

articles you want. 



STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS 



21 



once more the waiting line of food- 
hunters of another customer. 

This method of forming the food- 
hne is a Httle too dilettante in its action 
for the spritely American taste, but the 
Frenchwoman adores any plan that 
bristles with inconveniences, as it makes 
her feel that she is very busy, and the 
advantage of the system is that it has 
broken her of the bad habit of crowding 
in ahead of her turn. The greatest 
disadvantage of the food-line from 
point of time is that it must be formed 
anew, and the same lengthy operations 
gone through with, for each of the 
various departments. 

For example: you may have made 
your first circular tour in the grocery^ 
department proper, which occupies the 
front of the establishment. Then you 
decide to supplement your luncheon 
purchases with one of the plats du jour, 
from the list of daily dishes prepared 
by the store. You pass through a highly 
ornamental plate-glass and .iron-grilled 
barrier into the department of these 
ready made dishes, which are made up 
and in most cases, also, partially cooked. 

This idea of m^aking up a menu of 
ready-made dishes was originated by 
the Paris super-grocery, and while it is a 
sort of delicatessen formula (only do not 



whisper such a German word into 
French ears) , it has been by the grocery- 
market developed beyond the limits 
conceived by any other purveyor of pre- 
pared dishes. Ranged on marble tables 
there are, beside the usual cold meats and 
salads, a number of the standard dishes 
of the French dejeuner, substantial meat 
entrees, each garnished with its correct 
vegetable and accompanying sauce. 
They have already been cooked in 
earthenware dishes and only need to be 
popped into the home oven and heated 
up ready for the table. 

The ready-made dish department is 
not only a repository of ease for the 
studio housekeeper of the Latin Quarter, 
and for the home maker of the kitchen- 
ette apartment, but is also patronized by 
the thrifty French bourgeoise who finds 
these dishes, which can be bought for 
such reasonable prices, from twenty to 
fifty cents each, are really far cheaper 
than she can make the same things for 
at home, with all trouble extracted, 
and then there is a rebate of five or ten 
cents on each crockery receptacle. 

The selling of meat is specialized to a 
high degree in France. Pork is only 
sold at a charcutier, poultry and game in 
the shop of the mar chand de volatile et 
gihier; beef, veal and mutton only are 




?~^-# O^^^ 



The Ready Made Dish Department is the joy of the housekeeper of the kitchenette apartment. 
A ready cooked dish for every day in the week. 



22 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



linked up at the boucherie. Even now 
that the super-grocery-market has intro- 
duced the food department store, it still 
bows to tradition and divides up, its 
meat department into four sections, 
which means for each one waiting again 
in the food line. It is always a long line 
that trails through the charcuterie 
department, which shows up the im- 
portance of pork products in the French 
scheme of food. It is not, however, for 
the fresh pork carcasses that hang there, 
that the crowd surges in, but for the de 
luxe forms of the porcine, which take 
rank among the choicest "horsd'oeuvres" 
with which the French begin each lunch- 
eon and dinner, and their name is legion. 
In natural sequence now the food-line 
forms in the regular meat department, 
finished as all the others in white marble 
with saw-dusted floors of the same 
material. You dodge about among 
serried rows of fresh-butchered beeves, 
muttons and veals hanging from nickeled 
hooks above your head. Here another 
style of food is in vogue. Spread out on 
marble counters is an array of various 
cuts, — steaks, roasts, chops and the 
like — trimmed, trussed, boned and 
prepared for cooking, each marked with 
its fixed price. This ready-prepared 
system saves the making up of dilatory 



feminine minds as well as the time of 
employees during the rush hours ; as the 
super-grocery claims to sell cheaper than 
the small dealer, everything must in 
consequence be figured down to the 
economic low level. So it is you may 
leisurely inspect the bargains displayed, 
make your choice and then, as often 
happens, take your place in the waiting 
line only to see some one ahead of you 
choose the very morsel upon which you 
have set your eyes and mind. This is 
the gamble of the food-line. 

Such is the war time dearth of men 
that it is a young woman butcher who 
wields the cleaver at the chopping block, 
with, it must be confessed, less skill 
than her male prototype. Any com- 
plaint, however, will be stifled when 
your eye catches sight of one of the 
rather pathetic signs posted about, that 
politely requests customers to be con- 
siderate towards the young women in 
their arduous, adopted duties. Serving 
in the super-grocery is one of the many 
new occupations that war has opened to 
the women of France. 

About the time that the super-grocery 
was established in the mid-nineteenth 
century the guild of Paris butchers was 
limited by their charter to only a very 
few members. These became so 




The war has opened up a new occupation for women clerks in the^^super-grocery, even inlthe 

meat department. 



STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS 



23 



arrogant and wealthy that one of their 
number, on the occasion of a pubhc 
procession, cut in ahead of the King's 
own carriage, whereupon, the whole of 
the trade was punished for the sca;ndal, 
the business of butchering, then a close 
corporation, being thrown open to all. 
This is as the story goes. But there is 
no doubt about the arrogant position of 
the Paris butcher today with the price 
of meat double in many instances what 
it was before the war. Yet it is claimed 
to be the most precarious of all food 
business and for this reason it was with 
timidity, originally, that the super- 
grocery installed its fresh meat depart- 
mx8nt. Today it is one of their great 
su.^cesses owing to their large way of 
h kindling it. Quite as timidly the super- 
grocery put on sale recently, for the first 
tmr-^ in its history, cold storage meats 
and the sign now decorates the front 
of some of their stores, ''Viande im- 
portee congelee'' and marks what is per- 
haps the most revolutionary departure 
yet in the food business of France. The 
French have been bitterly opposed to 
the introduction of refrigerator meats, 
th6ir prejudice was simply the result 
of never having tasted them, but now 
that the super-grocery has taken them 
up the Parisians will doubtless take to 



the congelee steaks and roasts with the 
same docility that they have displayed 
towards other of the super-grocery 
innovations. Already they have nick- 
named the cold storage meat "frigo." 

The crowning triumph of the super- 
grocery's policy is the fish department. 
Its importance in the scheme of food 
may be estimated, when it is realized 
that the exclusive retail fish shop does 
not exist in Paris. Only in the large 
general open-air market, held bi-weekly 
on some boulevard of her quarter, will the 
Parisian housekeeper be able to buy her 
fish from a few stalls selling fresh fish, 
which lie gasping on dry boards without 
ice. Or it may be that her neighboring 
greengrocer will put a few unappetising 
fish of the "remainder class" on sale on 
Fridays and holidays as a special favor 
to his clients. In both cases prices are 
ridiculously high, when it is considered 
that two thirds of France's frontiers are 
salt water. Sea-food is therefore the 
scarcest and dearest article of con- 
sumption on the French menu. 

The super-grocery-market has been 
thus almost philanthropic in bringing 
fish into range of the daily steps and 
average purse of the Paris housewife. 
The fish department has been featured 
in a spectacular manner worthy of its 




The fish department is featured ; nurses even amuse children by bringing the little ones to see the 

stocks kept in the Aquariums. 



24 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



exotic importance as a novelty. It is 
usually to be found installed in a 
separate division of the store, marble 
throughout, while the walls are taste- 
fully and ornately decorated with gay- 
colored friezes, or comprehensive mural 
embellishments of tiles, or in porcelain 
relief, whose motifs comprise a long 
range of aquatic subjects from quaintly 
picturesque fishing craft to the more 
spectacular members of the finny tribes, 
all twined about in arabesques of 
gilded seaweed. 

The fish themselves are ranged on 
morgue-like marble slabs bedded on 
green water weeds over which trickles 
water. Ice is such a super-luxury in 
France that not even the super-grocery 
has arisen to the need of it for its fish 
department. True, they have installed 
some forms of meat refrigerators, but 
of a baby size and a temperature far 
from freezing. They depend upon keep- 
ing things fresh by the circulation of air 
only, for this reason the stores stay 
open all day and at night are protected 
by grilled barriers and not closed 
shutters. 

The clou of the fish department is the 
aquarium which rises in two or three 
ornamental tiers " of marble and glass 
and encloses the stocks of sporty brook 
and mountain trout and other fresh 



water fish, with perhaps a purely 
decorative basin containing gold fish. 
On platters of porcelain are piled up the 
small shell fish, the numerous and 
much sought after coquillages, which 
also figure importantly in the long list 
of hors d'oeuvres. 

For poultrA^ and game one must go 
outside where the stalls are lined up on 
the sidewalks in front of the store, 
partly protected by overhead awnings. 
The poultry is invariably dressed, while 
the game is almost exclusively com- 
posed of pheasants, hares and rabbits. 
On the sidewalk are also the fruits and 
vegetables, so is the cashier's desk for 
all of these outside departments; but 
the food-line is not formed out here, 
possibly for lack of space. 

For a study of the idiosyncrasies of a 
Paris shopping crowd there is no better 
method than by waiting in the food-line. 
The woman economical of time comes 
between eight, and ten; the bonnes, 
servant maids, bareheaded, white- 
aproned with baskets, form intermin- 
able lines before the noon hour; society 
comes in the afternoon to buy and eat, 
standing on the spot as is the custom, 
some delicacy in the pastry division, 
or as an excuse for a cup of tea in the 
attractive tea-room, which is apt to be 
the central feature of the confectionery 




Society goes to buy and eat pastry in the Confectionery 
Department, standing up in real French fashion. 



Elderly French gentlemen 
in selecting food 



STANDING IN THE FOOD LINE IN PARIS 



25 



department. The elderly Parisian man 
is quite an habitue of the super-grocery, 
being a "rentier" usually, he has time 
and also, no matter what his position 
in life, he takes an astonishing amount 
of personal interest in the details of his 
food consumption. For this reason 
elderly aristocratic gentlemen will be 
seen at unexpected hours selecting with 
greatest care say, a semelle of fine fruits 
for the dinner's dessert, which are luxuri- 
ously bedded in cotton, on a flat wicker 
tray, in" dozens and half-dozens, an 
invention of the super-grocery, whose 
innovation also has been the selling of 
choice fruits by piece instead of weight. 

Two-thirds of the food-line is return- 
ing bottles, plates, jars and all sorts of 
odd crockery that are "taken back," 
after first having been charged on the 
original purchase. From two to ten 
cents is charged back on each piece. 
It would be impossible to imagine the 
American woman taking back an armful 
of rough crockery in her shopping round 
even for a rebate on her next purchase, 
but the thrifty Frenchwoman eternally 
occupies herself with the chase of the 
sou. 

But the two great innovations in- 
augurated by the super-groceries are 
first: selling at the cours du jour — 
the ruling prices of the day — keeping, 



however, for the store the same margin 
of profits. The trade before this had 
been in the habit of making the customer 
pay all that the traffic would stand. 
The second, was to introduce into the 
business the hitherto unknown feature 
of fixed prices, thus doing away, too, 
with the pernicious graft of one, cent in 
every twenty cents to which all servants 
in France consider themselves entitled 
when they purchase for their employers. 
This "dance of the basket," as it is 
called, still is practised in the small 
shops as well as in the open-air markets 
of France. 

The true success of the super-grocery 
in Paris has been, however, based on 
the policy of being its own chef, its own 
chemist and as far as possible the manu- 
facturer of its own stock in trade. The 
largest of these super-groceries has five 
retail establishments in Paris, its own 
slaughter house in the Paris wholesale 
meat market and three great food 
manufacturies and storage warehouses 
in the suburbs, as well as one hundred 
and fifty affiliated groceries all over 
France, selling their exclusive manu- 
factured products. The firms are vine- 
yard owners in all the celebrated vine 
growing regions of France, Algeria and 
Tunisia. They make no-end lists of 
sweet syrups, so much used by the 




take an astonishing interest 
supplies themselves. 



A wartimefashion is that a polite gentleman at the cashier's 
desk tries to bone the exact change out of a customer. 



26 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



French for soft drinks. They have, too, 
their own bakery, producing crackers, 
pastry and confectionery. Their agents 
all over the countryside buy up fresh 
fruits and vegetables, not only for their 
retail stores but for the preserving 
and canning of their own goods. They 
also put up pickles, condiments and 
mustards bearing their own brand. 
They grow, some at least, of their own 
beet root and refine and put up their 
own sugars and salt. 

Paris is, however, and probably will 
always remain, a city of small shops and 
the French as a nation are advocates 
and partisans of the small shopkeeper. 
Hence it has taken the great war, 
which has proved out so many issues, 
to prove out to the still sceptical 
Parisians the real utility of handling 
food on a large scale. The only fear 
that war has provoked in the hearts of 
the dwellers of Paris is the fear of 
running short of food, as in their 
memories stih linger the horrors of the 
starvation siege of their city in the 
last war of the "seventies;" consequently 
there have been periodical "rushes" on 
the grocery shops by Parisians, as well as 
suburbanites, to buy up and stow away 
stocks of provisions, when German 
advances on Paris have seemed im- 
minent during the last year and a half 
of warfare. In these crises there were 
days at a time when such staples as 



sugar, . salt, potatoes, etc., were often 
entirely lacking at the small specialist 
epicerie with its antiquated facilities 
and restricted ways of doing business, 
and could only be gotten at the super- 
grocery. Then it was that for weeks 
on end the "food-lines" in the super- 
groceries were running over into the 
streets for blocks around; people waited 
their turn for days; the police had to 
form the "service of order" while the 
delivery wagons of the establishments 
were kept going night and day between 
their warehouses and retail stores replen- 
ishing their rapidly depleted stocks. 
Then it was that the eyes of the Parisian 
food shoppers were opened wide at last 
to the advantages of modern methods 
and efficiency in the distribution of a 
city's food supply. 

The super-groceries of Paris by their 
policy of manufacturing to so great an 
extent their own food ammunition and 
controlling their own depots of supplies 
and, finally, by mobilizing their forces 
efficiently, demonstrated their value, at 
the most critical period in the history 
of their city, to the Parisians, the most 
sceptical people on earth, of any de- 
parture from their old traditions, and 
at the same time rolled up to their own 
credit golden opinions and golden divi- 
dends. The enormous profits reaped by 
the super-groceries of Paris from their 
"war boom" can only be guessed. 



Dietetic Cure of Rheumatism 

By A. W. Herr, M. D. 



URIC acid has long been looked 
upon as a strong causative fac- 
tor in gout, rheumatic disorders, 
etc; and proprietary houses and patent 
medicine firms have not been slow to ex- 
ploit this theory, to their own financial 
betterment and the spoliation of the 
public health and purse. 



Let us for a moment study the rela- 
tionship of this question. Uric acid is 
the highest oxidation product of a series 
of substances known as the purin bodies. 
Uric acid was formerly supposed to be 
an antecedent of urea, especially when 
the diet consisted largely of flesh meats, 
but we have since discovered our mis- 



DIETETIC CURE OF RHEUMATISM 



27 



take, for it has been found that uric acid 
itself is non-poisonous. However, its 
presence is a measure of the amount of 
other toxins present in the urine, most 
of which are derived from an incorrect 
dietary. Therefore to correct uric acid 
conditions and diseases, we must cor- 
rect the dietary of the patient by the 
ehmination of such foods and beverages 
as contain large amounts of uric acid and 
allied substances; such foods, for instance, 
as flesh meats, tea, coffee, and cocoa. 

The liver, however, is able to destroy 
much of the ingested purins, but if 
through wrong habits of eating, this 
organ has been rendered torpid and 
incompetent, there is likely to be a fail- 
ure in completing the work of oxidation 
of these substances, thus retaining them 
in greater quantities in the circulation 
where they will appear in increased quan- 
tities in the urine. This condition is 
likely to interfere with removal of the 
sarcolactic acid from the muscles, and so 
results in a decreased alkalinity of the 
blood. 

Now a word with reference to uric 
acid solvents. Admitting, for argument's 
sake, that uric acid is the primal factor 
in the disease, and that these solvents, 
including the ** alkaline treatment", were 
always successful in dissolving uric acid, 
yet the treatment is temporizing and 
their use irrational, for these remedies, 
at most, but serve to neutralize the excess 
of uric acid present at any one time in 
the system and in no wise reach the 
cause of the uric acid formation; and 
the physician who merely treats the 
symptoms as the pain and uricademia, 
yet fails to pay attention to causal fac- 
tors, as, for instance, the proper dieting 
of his rheumatic patient, is likely to be 
called again and again to treat the same 
symptoms. 

What are some of the etiological fac- 
tors in this disease? We should like to 
emphasize as factors the following: A 
lack of metabolic power by the tissues at 
large, and a lack of oxidizing power by 
the liver in particular, both conditions 



largely brought about by habitual over- 
feeding, particularly upon a protein diet. 
In the recent able work done by Prof. 
Chittenden, the profession has been made 
cognizant by thoroughly scientific experi- 
ments that the average man in his habits 
of eating is a gourmand, i.e., that the 
ordinary amount of daily food ingested 
is according to his most thorough and 
convincing experimental proofs inor- 
dinate. 

One part of Prof. Chittenden's find- 
ings — that concerning the amount of 
albumin required by the system — we 
found to be in harmony with a series of 
experiments we carried out, some years 
since, in connection with a well-known 
sanitarium, in which one hundred and 
twenty nurses and helpers were divided 
into groups of six, and each group given a 
particular article of diet to live upon for 
an entire week. Both at the beginning 
and at the close of the week, weight, 
strength-tests, by a dynometer, were 
taken, and an examination was also 
made of both blood and urine. Some 
groups were fed upon potatoes alone, 
others upon legumes, nuts, eggs, milk, 
fruits, respectively, some upon one kind 
of fruit, and others upon a mixture of 
fruits. Daily symptoms were carefully 
noted and tabulated for the entire week. 
Some interesting data were gathered. 
We will here call attention to one of 
these in particular. Those who lived 
upon fruit alone, while sustaining a loss 
in weight varying from six to thirteen 
pounds, gained remarkably in strength, 
in some cases as high as fifteen hundred 
pounds, as tested upon the dynometer. 
We interpreted this to mean not a loss 
in weight, but a loss in waste. The 
tissue organism had time and oppor- 
tunity, afforded it upon the fruit diet, to 
carry on more thoroughly the work of 
elimination. This cleansing afforded 
the muscles greater freedom and power 
to contract. All who passed through 
the experiment spoke of the increased 
mental clearness and well-being up to 
the close of the day. 



28 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



On the other hand, those groups who 
were fed upon a diet containing an ex- 
cess of proteids, as beans, peas, lentils, 
eggs, cottage-cheese, meat, while they 
gained in weight, lost in strength. We 
interpreted this as meaning not a true 
gain in weight, but an accumulation of 
waste; the tissues had become clogged 
with debris of an excessive proteid diet, 
to the extent of interference with free 
muscular action. These groups suffered 
from bilious attacks, heavily coated 
tongues, foul breath, headaches, insom- 
nia and general malaise. Here we would 
call attention to the well known physio- 
logical fact that nature has provided in 
the system a store-house for excessive 
ingesta of carbohydrates, in the liver 
cell and muscle fiber; which excess can 
be dealt out and utilized as the system 
demands. One might eat a whole peck 
of ripe peaches or a whole basket of 
grapes in season, or a dozen baked pota- 
toes or a couple of bowls of brown, well 
cooked rice, and suffer no further in- 
convenience than that of a temporarily 
distended stomach, the excess being 
stored as glycogen or liver starch. Not 
so for an excess of albuminous food ; no 
such store-house having been provided; 
all above the amount required for the 
daily repair of tissue wastes must be 
worked over into crystalline extractives 
and eliminated. And it is, doubtless, 
these same extractives that are a prom- 
inent factor in rheumatism. 

The system requires a much larger 
amount of the carbohydrates and hydro- 
carbons in the form of starches, sugars 
and fats for the production of both heat 
and force, and greater quantities of these 
food substances can be taken with im- 
punity. We would, therefore, allow our 
rheumatic patient an abundance of 
starches, properly prepared, and sugars 
in the form of fruits. There has been 
in the past a tendency in these cases to 
limit the ingestion of starches, and the 
free administration of proteids has fol- 
lowed instead. This doubtless has been 
because of the usual accompanying 



starch indigestion (amylacious dyspep- 
sia) and the consequent production of 
butyric, lactic, and acetic acids, thus in- 
creasing the acid condition of the system. 
This evil can be avoided by dextriniza- 
tion of the starches (baking potato, 
browning rice and cornmeal before cook- 
ing, toasting bread-stuffs), and by cor- 
rection of the dilatation of the stomach, a 
condition which almost invaribly accom- 
panies chronic cases as a strong causative 
factor. In a tabulation of about two 
thousand histories of rheumatism, we 
found a majority suffering from gas- 
troptosis, or stomach dilatation. As the 
saliva, rather than the gastric juice, dis- 
solves the starch, after reaching the 
stomach, this strongly emphasizes the 
necessity of a dry dietary, particularly 
at the beginning of the meal, as a sali- 
vary stimulant and as a means of induc- 
ing most thorough mastication of food. 

Some practitioners deprive their pa- 
tients of all fruits, which I believe to be 
an error. The organic acids of fruits, 
such as malic, citric, and tartaric acids, 
are transformed into alkaline carbon- 
ates in the blood, and so avail to neutral- 
ize the acid state of the blood. Fruit 
acids also by their germicidal power pre- 
vent the formation of abnormal acids in 
the stomach and bowels, and certainly 
are an aid to the liver in its cleansing 
work upon the blood. 

The fault in the administration of 
fruits is usually that the practitioner for- 
gets that the presence of acids checks the 
action of the digestive enzymes upon 
starch, and acid fruits are prescribed to 
be taken at the same meal with starchy 
vegetables. Let acid fruits, such as the 
apple, orange, grapefruit, California 
prune, blueberry, raisins, Malaga grapes, 
be taken at one meal, preferably in the 
morning, when the blood is normally 
more alkaline and will more readily take 
up acids ; and starchy vegetables be used 
at the next meal. Usually there will be 
but little interference with the starch of 
well cooked bread-stuffs, particularly if 
they have been prepared by twice baking 



DIETETIC CURE OF RHEUMATISM 



29 



in the form of zwiebach. But we have 
had some cases where it was necessary 
to cut out even breads, and prescribe 
fruit alone at the breakfast meal; and 
really, this plan we consider preferable, 
where the patieht can be educated to 
adopt it. 

The best dietary in most cases, for a 
while at least, is no food at all. In other 
words, what is needed is a complete fast 
for a short period of time. This enables 
the organism to rid itself of waste prod- 
ucts and of its acid wastes by concen- 
trating all of its vital forces to the work 
of elimination. This process is further 
hastened during this period (a brief one, 
usually due to the impatience of the 
client to return to regular feeding) by 
the free use of distilled water as a bever- 
age. Distilled water, being a fluid un- 
saturated with mineral salts of any kind, 
is of much greater value than the usual 
mineral waters prescribed in this disease, 
because the distilled water is capable of 
becoming saturated with the debris of 
the system present in rheumatism, and 
in its passage out of the system removes 
this debris. 

Again, in a fast, time is allowed for 
a recuperation of the working cells of 
the glands of the entire body, which in 
this disease are overworked; and no- 
where is this regeneration of glandular 
structure so apparent as in the glands 
along the digestive tract. Stomach, 
liver, pancreas, and intestines seem rap- 
idly to assume new powers, like a tired 
horse turned out to grass. 

With perfect elaboration of food-prod- 
ucts by the digestive organs, the suc- 
ceeding steps of absorption, oxidation, 
and anabolism are more perfect. Gen- 
eral metabolic changes are brought to 
completion. 



We believe there is one food element 
essential to the proper dieting of our 
rheumatic patient that is generally over- 
looked. We refer to oxygen. Every 
particle of solid or liquid food we take 
into our system must pass by the way of 
the lungs, and there combine with oxy- 
gen before it is of any value to the sys- 
tem. As the carbon and hydrogen of 
our food molecules unite with oxygen to 
form water and carbon-dioxide gas, there 
is a production of heat energy, a portion 
of which energy is transformed into other 
forms of energy as muscular power, 
nerve force, glandular energy, and if 
through lack of proper lung develop- 
ment the system is deprived of this food 
element, the remaining food elements, 
whether in the form of albumin, starch, 
or fat, are worse than useless. 

What is demanded in these cases 
is not only increased oxidizing power 
for the liver, but to obtain these 
we must have development of lung 
power, all of which can be ob- 
tained by physical exercise, deep 
breathing movements, massage treat- 
ments, and short cool baths. 

A further word concerning lung devel- 
opment. The average vital capacity 
ranges from 225 to 250 cubic inches. 
What is needed is not so much the con- 
scious, deep breathing, which will occur 
at stated intervals, but that which is 
brought about by systematic lung de- 
velopment; the unconscious increase of 
tidal air that occurs at each breath, 
amounting to, if only increased by one 
cubic inch at each breath, from 25,000 
to 30,000 cubic inches during a twenty- 
four hour period, which increased capa- 
city for oxygenated air means much in 
our battle with this and many another 
disease. 




30 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
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Statement of ownership arid management as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912, 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

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Owners : 

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PUBLISHED ten TIMES A YEAR BY 

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THE SUMMER SCHOOL 

Mrs. Hill's annual Summer School of 
Cookery at South Chatham, New 
Hampshire, begins this season on July 
fifth. This is an ideal place for work 
and out-door recreation combined. 
Each morning dietetics, the cooking 
and serving of foods are in order. The 
actual processes of preparing and serving 
meals are carried out here on a larger 
scale and in a more explicit manner than 
in any other place of which we are 
aware. Each afternoon there is ample 
opportunity for those who desire, to 



enjoy out-door exercises and something 
of camp life. Forty acres are in the 
house lot; water, woods and mountains 
are near by. The sure gains of a vaca- 
tion here are in the way of instruction, 
by an expert in culinary matter, personal 
practice work, a pleasant outing and 
invariably improved health. The dis- 
tractions so common at summer resorts 
are wanting. 

A NEW PAGE 

WITH this issue we begin a new 
volume, the twenty-first of con- 
tinuous publication. Now the time is 
very favorable for new subscriptions to 
the best, the most reliable, and, at the 
same time, the cheapest of culinary 
publications. The rapid rise in cost of 
paper threatens necessary and imme- 
diate increase in the price of sub- 
scriptions to all periodicals, or certain 
calamity and failure to the publishers. 
Would that we might add during this 
season to our list the names of new 
subscribers sufficient to enable us to 
tide over the stress of present business 
conditions and continue along the line 
we have followed so long. This 
magazine is not erratic in conduct, that 
is, subject to frequent changes, rather 
it is conservative and co-operative in 
character. This one thing we do, and we 
try to do that well. Unless we are of 
service in the household, we are nothing. 
We desire to make American Cookery, m 
every sense, worthy of the respect and 
confidence of its readers. We appeal 
to you for co-operation. 

THE MATTER OF WORRYING 

THERE is just one thing more 
enervating than worrying too 
much, and that is not worrying enough. 
The philosophy in the advice Don't 
Worry! is not the philosophy of practical 
people, but of newspaper physicians, 
beauty doctors, useless centenarians, 
and cheerful cherubs generally. One 
opens up the calendar for the new year 
and the motto on January first, when 



EDITORIALS 



31 



bills fall due, is Dont Worry! One 
breaks a leg on the icy sidewalk and lies 
abed when business is urgent, and the 
nurse, discovering a degree or two of 
perfectly justifiable fever, says sweetly, 
Now Dont Worry! Was ever advice so 
untimely ? 

If love makes the world ,go 'round, it 
is worry that makes it forge ahead. To 
the Anglo-Saxon makers of our tongue, 
to worry meant to strangle, to take the 
wolf at the door by the throat and choke 
him, not simply look timidly at him 
through the keyhole and deplore his 
presence. If a mother does not actively 
worry when her children fall ill, the 
chances are that she will allow the 
unsanitary conditions which brought 
them to this pass to continue. If a 
father does not actively worry over his 
growing boy he is likely to have a far 
severer kind of worry to indulge in 
when the boy reaches manhood. It is 
a housewife's worrying over the pennies 
that leaves the pounds free to take care 
of themselves. 

True serenity is not the negative 
result of not worrying, it is the positive 
result of fighting, and comes after, not 
before, the battle. "Job's comforters," 
for all our sneering, were his good 
friends. They found him disconsolate 
upon an ash-heap, his mind an 
amorphous fog of self-pity. Had they 
told him not to worry he would, doubt- 
less, have sat there, passively non- 
worrying, to the end. As it was, before 
they got through with him he was 
justifying himself to his creator in good, 
clear, energetic terms that promised well 
for the future. 

When the schoolboy says "I should 
worry," he comes nearer to the truth 
than he knows; and it is only because 
he has already worried — worried his 
way through problems to their solution, 
and strangled the wolfish questions on 
examination papers into silence, with a 
decent display of knowledge — that 
he can voice his present unconcern so 
cheerfully. Were the business man to 



stoop to the same slang phrase — per- 
haps he does! — he would yet know in 
his soul that he can only get to the top 
by worrying his way there. 

The man who doesn't worry is the 
type of man who doesn't pay his rent. 
The woman who never worries sits pas- 
sively rocking while her children run at 
large. But your true and capable 
worker asks for no comforting palaver. 
No rocking-chair for him! From much 
strangling of wolves he has become an 
expert wrestler. He is not at a loss in a 
catastrophe. For he is like one who has 
stooped in order that he may leap. 
His muscles are taut, his vision clear, 
and for him, "if the sky falls, there will 
be catching of larks . " For non- worrying 
Micawbers nothing turns up, but this 
man will worry his bright, undaunted 
way to the unattainable. h. C. C. 

THREE FOR A QUARTER 

COMING back to America after 
keeping house for many years in 
France and Germany, I am 
struck with the way grocers and fruit 
dealers make it hard for the American 
housewife to buy in small quantities. 
The retail dealer, if he is making no i 
more than a fair profit on his goods can- ■ « 
not afford to give more than 5% or 10% 
discount for larger quantities, but in 
America he has the habit of charging 
ten cents, each, three for twenty-five 
cents or fifteen cents, each, two for 
twenty-five cents, or even ten cents 
apiece, two for fifteen cents. This may 
not be so in the case of necessities that 
keep well, but it is unfair to the house- 
wife buying perishable luxuries for a 
small family. She has only a choice of 
two evils, either to pay, for instance, 
as we do here in San Diego, ten cents for 
a bunch of celery, or two for fifteen 
cents, when one is all she needs. This 
means that the considerable part of 
the family's income which goes for such 
small purchases is paying the dealer a 
second profit of 2>2>% in addition to his 
legitimate profit, if she pays ten cents 



32 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



for a single bunch of celery worth seven 
and a half. It means getting $75 worth 
of food for every $100 spent. If she 
buys two bunches, she is spending twice 
as much as she should. 

There is no good reason why that 
celery should not be sold for eight cents 
a bunch. Why must prices be rounded 
off to some multiple of five cents? 
Why not offer strawberries for eight 
cents a box, not three for twenty-five? 
Half a pound of cranberries is enough for 
a dish of sauce for two persons and would 
cost six cents at twelve cents a pound. 
While at two pounds for twenty-five 
cents the housewife is tempted to buy 
four times as much. When a dealer 
prices more than the quantity a small 
family needs at twenty-five or fifty 
cents instead of twenty-four and forty- 
eight cents, he gains 4% more profit, 
while the housekeeper is tempted to 
spend several hundred percent more 
than she needs to, or else she must pay 
an average of 25% more for the quantity 
she wants. 

The American woman has more 
money to spend on her table than the 
French or German woman, perhaps 
twice as much, and some of the standard 
food-stuffs are cheaper in America, 
but this foolish custom of making some 
multiple of five cents, the least ac- 
ceptable amount to spend, tempts her 
into extravagance and makes it as hard 
for her to keep within her allowance. 
The French woman can buy a head of 
lettuce for two cents. She is not 
expected to buy two for five cents. 
She buys a quarter of a pound of mush- 
rooms for six cents, not a whole pound 
for twenty-five cents. She gets a bunch 
of cooking celery for three cents, not 
three for ten cents. And so she goes 
home with enough lettuce, celery and 
mushrooms for a total outlay of eleven 
cents, where the American woman at 
the same prices would spend twenty to 
forty cents. 

The German hausfrau is even better 



off. The smallest coin in Germany is 
the pfennig, worth a quarter of a cent, 
and things are priced in odd pfennigs. 
Eggs, for instance, are sold for six 
pfennigs apiece in summer up to fifteen 
in winter for fresh eggs. In winter, 
when eggs are too dear to use freely, the 
German woman will buy three for a 
cake or pudding for forty-five pfennigs 
or eleven cents, when the American 
woman orders a dozen for fifty cents. 
I believe that dealers will respond 
to a demand by housewives for prices 
based on fair profits for smaller quan- 
tities with due regard for the odd cents. 
My fruit dealer is satisfied to sell me a 
box of strawberries when they are five 
cents each. When they are a little 
dearer he has learned not to offer me 
four boxes for twenty-five cents, my. 
needs have not increased fourfold, he 
sells me one box for six cents. I wish 
he would sell strawberries by the pound 
as they do in Europe. You see then 
what you are buying, half of that last 
box was uneatable. B. W. 

RIGHT POSTURE AID TO HEALTH 

That right posture has a large part 
to do with women's health, even more 
than men's, was the leading point em- 
phasized by Dr. Martin Edwards in 
his talk at the Women's Municipal 
League, 

*'The Winged Victory did not stand 
in a slovenly way," he said. "She stood 
with her toes straight forward and her 
abdomen in. This raised her chest, 
threw back her shoulders and poised 
her head automatically. Hers was the 
attitude of efficiency, optimism, joy in 
work and in play. She never wore tight 
shoes nor restricting clothing; she never 
lived in an ill ventilated house ; she never 
spent top much time indoors, she never 
spent whole afternoons and evenings 
at bridge, and she was not prudish. 

"She expressed cleanliness, balance, 
poise of body and mind; hence she had 
good health." 




STRAWBERRY TART 



Page 41 



Seasonable and Tested Recipes 



By Janet M. Hill 



IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once, Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Fresh Fish Chowder 

TO serve six or seven people, se- 
lect a fresh fish of the white va- 
riety of about four pounds. 
Cover three cups of pared-and-sliced 
potatoes with cold water and let stand 
an hour or longer. Cut off the head of 
the fish, also cut out a strip about one- 
third an inch wide down the back of the 
fish to take out the fi^ns and small bones 
attached; beginning at the broad end 
pull off the skin from both sides, then 
lift (with a knife) the flesh from the 
bones on both sides ; cut this in two-inch 
pieces and set aside. Break up the bone, 
add the head and all the trimmings, 
cover with cold water and set over the 
fire; let heat slowly to the boiling point, 
then simmer half an hour. Shake or 
scrape the flesh from the bones, and 
strain the fish liquid over it. Cut a two- 
ounce slice of fat salt pork in bits and 
let cook very slowly until the liquid fat 
is removed; add an onion peeled and 
cut in shreds and let cook until softened 
and yellowed; add two cups of cold 



water and let simmer fifteen minutes, 
then drain, pressing out all the liquid 
possible. Drain the potatoes, pour on 
boiling water and let boil five or six 
minutes, then drain, rinse in cold water, 
drain and pour on the water in which the 
pork and onions were cooked and the 
fish broth; let cook until the potatoes 
are nearly done; add the fish, a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pep- 
per, and let cook five minutes; add about 
three cups of hot milk with salt and pep- 
per as is needed to season. For a 
thicker consistency, cream one-third a 
cup of butter, beat in one-third a cup of 
flour and stir into the hot milk ; let cook 
about fifteen minutes, then add as above. 
Serve in soup plates or in cream soup 
cups. 

Shrimps in Aspic Jelly 

Pick the shells from one pint of 
shrimps. Stir one and one-half table- 
spoonfuls of granulated gelatine softened 
in half a cup of chicken broth, the 
slightly beaten white of one egg and the 
crushed shells of several eggs into three 



33 



34 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cups of chicken broth flavored with onion, 
carrot, celery and thyme; set the H- 
quid over a quick fire and stir con- 
stantly until boiling; let boil five min- 
utes, then stand in a warm place to settle, 
then strain through a napkin wrung out 
of hot water. Season with salt and pep- 
per and let chill. Set a mold holding 
one pint and one-half into ice and water; 
when chilled turn in two or three table- 
spoonfuls of the liquid; tip the mold, 
to coat it slightly, and return to 
the ice and water; set shrimps on the 
bottom and around the edge close to 
the mold, add slices of olives or other 
decorations, then fill the mold, alter- 
nately, with the shrimps and half-set 



until nearly tender with the water at a 
gentle simmer. Thirty minutes before 
time of cooking will be completed, remove 
the ham from the water to the rack in 
a baking pan; remove the skin, pour 
over half a cup of dried mushrooms that 
have been soaked in a cup or more of 
cold water and half a cup of the liquid 
in which the ham was cooked. Baste 
each five or six minutes. Serve with 
currant jelly sauce. 

Currant Jelly Sauce for Ham 

Strain the liquid in the braising dish, 
pressing out all the liquid possible; re- 
move the fat with tissue paper. Cook 
three tablespoonfuls of flour in the same 









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MATERIALS FOR FRESH FISH CHOWDER 



jelly and set aside to become firm. Serve, 
unmolded, with lettuce or other green 
vegetable and salad dressing. To un- 
mold, set the mold in warm (not hot) 
water to the full height of the jelly, let 
stand about five seconds, remove, loosen 
at the top if necessary, tip the mold from 
side to side to let air between the jelly 
and mold, then invert on the serving 
dish. 

Ham Braised with Dried 
Mushrooms 

Scrub the ham; if salty, let soak over- 
night in cold water, otherwise set to 
cook in cold water to cover ; heat gradu- 
ally to the .boiling point,, then, kt- cook.. 



measure of the fat from the ham; add 
one cup and a half of the liquid and half 
a teaspoonful of beef extract and stir 
until boiling; add two or three table- 
spoonfuls of currant jelly and stir until 
dissolved. 

Chaudfroid of Beef Tenderloin 

Trim a beef tenderloin neatly, tie 
in shape, rub over with flour and let 
brown in hot fat in a frying pan, first 
on one side and then on the other. Use 
fat from salt pork or olive oil. Set the 
meat on a rack in a moderate oven and 
let cook one hour, basting six times with 
hot fat. Let cool under a board bear- 
ing a weight to preserve the shape. 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



35 




SHRIMPS IN ASPIC JELLY 



Chaudfroid Sauce 

Prepare a cup of mayonnaise dressing. 
Soften one tablespoonful of gelatine in 
one-fourth a cup of clarified broth or 
consomme and dissolve by setting into 
boiling water; add a few grains of salt 
and paprika and stir until cool, then 
quickly beat into the mayonnaise and 
use to cover the top and sides of the beef, 
or article to be covered. Have ready 
hard-cooked egg, truffles, oHa'cs or ca- 
pers, in suitable shapes for decoration, 
and set upon the sauce in some symmet- 
rical fashion; cover with consomme, in 
which a tablespoonful of gelatine has 
been dissolved, just on the point of set- 
ting. To serve, slice very thin and 
surround with a salad of green vegetables 



or a combination of cooked and green 
vegetables. 

Veal Loaf 

Pass three pounds and one-half of 
raw^ veal (preferably from the round or 
hind leg) , two ounces of fat salt pork and 
two ounces of raw ham through a food 
chopper; add six soda crackers, rolled 
to fine crumbs, one-fourth a cup of dried 
mushrooms, soaked in cold water, 
chopped fine, one tablespoonful of salt, 
three eggs well beaten, three table- 
spoonfuls of rich cream, the water from 
the mushrooms and a teaspoonful of 
pepper; mix all together thoroughly and 
shape into a compact roll, longer than 
wide or thick. Slide into a baking dish, 
set slices of fat salt pork above and let 




CHAUDFROID . OF BEEF TENDERLOIN 



36 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



bake three hours, basting often with the 
fat in the pan. The oven should not be 
too hot. Shce thin when cold. Serve 
with salad. The loaf may be covered 
with chaudfroid sauce, decorated and 
the decorations covered with aspic jelly. 

Noodles, Soubise Style 

Cook a cup of noodles in boiling salted 
water until done, replenishing the water 
as needed; drain, rinse in cold water and 



the bread crumbs (softened in stock 
or milk and wrung dry), the salt, paprika 
and mushroom peelings and stems 
chopped fine. Mix and spread on the 
pieces of veal. Roll each piece sepa- 
rately, and fasten with wooden tooth 
picks ; saute in hot salt pork fat ; put into 
the casserole, add hot stock or milk 
nearly to cover, and let cook about an 
hour; add the peas, carrots, mushroom 
caps and potatoes, stir in flour mixed 




STUFFED VEAL CUTLETS EX CASSEROLE 



drain again. Have ready mild onions 
peeled and cooked ; press onions through 
a strainer to make one cup and a half 
of pulp and reheat ; add one-fourth a cup 
of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
little black pepper, and the noodles ; with 
a spoon and fork lift the noodles to mix 
all together thoroughly. Send to the table 
around the ham or in a separate dish. 

Stuffed Veal Cutlets en Casserole 



1 thin slice veal cutlet 
^ pound cheaper veal 

2 slices bacon or fat salt 

pork 
I cup fine bread crumbs 
1 teaspoonful onion juice 
Salt and paprika 



^ pound mushroom 

caps 
Stock or milk 
Green peas 
Potato balls 
Carrot balls 
Flour needed 



Pound the veal to one-eighth of an 
inch in thickness, cut in pieces three by 
five inches. Scrape the pulp from 
trimmings and the half pound of veal; 
add one slice of the bacon chopped fine. 



with water to thicken, also salt and 
pepper as needed; return to the oven to 
cook the vegetables. The potato and 
carrot balls should be cooked in boiling 
water five minutes, drained, dried and 
cooked in the fat until lightly colored 
before being added to the casserole. 
The mushroom caps should be browned 
without previous cooking. 

Squabs en Casserole 

Clean, wash and dry the squabs; truss 
as for roasting or, if fully grown, cut each 
in halves, through the back and breast; 
rub over with flour and let brown in hot 
salt pork fat or olive oil, turning to 
brown all sides uniformly; set into a 
casserole, add chicken broth or a tea- 
spoonful of beef extract melted in a pint 
of boiling water nearly to cover the 
squabs, cover the dish and let cook in 
the oven until nearly tender; add, for 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



37 





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EGGS SHIRRED WITH SAUSAGE 



each squab, two or three mushroom caps, 
one small onion and six potato balls 
browned in the fat ; add also salt and pep- 
per to taste and let cook about fifteen 
minutes. Serve in the casserole. 
Blanch the onions and potatoes before 
browning; cook the onions half an hour, 
the potatoes ten minutes, then drain, 
rinse in cold water and dry on a cloth. 

Eggs Shirred with Sausage 

Prick six sausages all over, set into a 
small au gratin dish and let cook in the 
oven until beginning to crisp; pour off 
the fat and cut the sausage into pieces 
an inch in length ; dispose these near the 
sides of the dish and break three fresh 
eggs into the center; pour one or two 
tablespoonfuls of the hot fat over the 
eggs and let cook in the oven until the 
eggs are as firm as desired. Serve in the 
bakingMish. 

Lettuce, Cress-and-Tomato Salad 

Carefully wash and dry the lettuce 
and cress. Peel the tomatoes and cut 



each in eight sections. Set several 
branches of cress at each end of a serv- 
ing dish with light-colored heart-leaves 
of lettuce meeting at the center; dis- 
pose the sections of tomato over the 
stem ends of the lettuce. Pour French 
dressing over the whole or serve the 
dressing in a sauce-boat made for this 
purpose. 

French Dressing for Salad 

Into a glass fruit jar turn half a cup 
of olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of red- 
wine vinegar, one-third a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika 
and a scraping of onion pulp or juice; 
adjust one or two rubbers and the cover 
and shake vigorously until well blended 
and thickened. 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; 
beat one Qgg\ beat half a cup of sugar 
into the butter, the other half into the 
Qgg and beat the two mixtures together. 
Sift together two cups and one-half of 




LETTUCE, CRESS-AND-TOMATO SALAD 



3S 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



flour, five teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
add to the sugar mixture, alternately, 
with three-fourths a cup of milk and beat 
in one cup of blueberries. Bake about 
twenty-five minutes in a hot, well-oiled 
iron muffin pan. 

Chocolate Marshmallow Cream 
Roll 

Beat four eggs light without separat- 
ing the whites and yolks; gradually 
beat in one cup of granulated sugar, one- 
fourth a cup of cocoa (less may be used) 
and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; 
then fold in one cup of sifted flour, 
sifted again with one level teaspoonful of 



and wash down the inside of the sauce- 
pan, repeatedly, with the tips of the fin- 
gers wet in cold water; cover and let boil 
three minutes ; uncover and let boil until 
a little of the syrup, when tested, will 
form a soft ball in cold water (240° F. on 
the sugar thermometer) ; pour in a fine 
stream on the whites of two eggs beaten 
very light, beating constantly mean- 
while; add the marshmallows and beat 
very hard. Flavor with half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and beat occasion- 
ally until cold. 

Confectioners' Chocolate Frosting 

Melt one square (or ounce) of choco- 
late over boiling water; add two table- 



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CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW CREAM ROLL 



baking powder. Turn into a dripping 
pan 13J X 8| inches, lined with buttered 
paper, and let bake about twelve minutes 
or until firm to the touch. Turn on to 
a cloth or paper and trim off the crisp 
edges; when cooled somewhat, spread 
with marshmallow filling and roll like a 
jelly-roll; roll in the cloth and let stand 
half an hour or longer. Spread con- 
fectioners' chocolate frosting over the 
top. 

Marshmallow Filling 

Set one-fourth a pound of marsh- 
mallows to heat and soften in a double 
boiler. Melt one cup of granulated 
sugar in one-fourth a cup of boiling water 



spoonfuls of granulated sugar and three 
tablespoonfuls of boiling water and stir 
until smooth and boiling; add more 
water if needed, a teaspoonful at a 
time, then stir in sifted confectioners' 
sugar to make a frosting of the proper 
consistency to stay in place. 

Cream Rhubarb Pie 

Sift two level tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch with one cup of sugar and half a 
teaspoonful of salt; pour on one cup of 
boiling water and stir until boiling; add 
the grated rind of one orange or lemon, 
one cup of fine-chopped rhubarb, a 
tablespoonful of butter and the beaten 
yolks of three eggs; mix thoroughly and 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



39 




OMELET, MELBA STYLE 



turn into a plate lined with pastry as for 
a custard pie; let bake about twenty- 
five minutes, then cool a little. Beat 
the whites of three eggs very light, then 
gradually beat in half a cup of granu- 
lated sugar, and spread over the top of 
the pie; dredge with granulated sugar 
and let bake in a moderate oven about 
twelve minutes. 

Omelet, Melba Style 

Beat the yolks of five eggs until thick 
and light colored and the whites until 
very light and firm ; to the yolks add the 
grated rind and juice of a lemon, one 
tablespoonful of hot water, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and three tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar and fold together until well 
blended, then pour over the whites and 
fold into the mixture. Melt two table- 
spoonfuls of butter in a nine-inch frying 
pan, tipping the pan to coat the whole 
surface with the butter ; pour in the egg 



mixture and make smooth on the top. 
Let stand on the range a moment to 
"set" the egg on the bottom, then put 
into a moderate oven to cook until a 
knife thrust into the center is removed 
without uncooked egg adhering to it. 
Score at right angles to the handle of the 
pan; set some preserved or canned 
peaches, sliced, on the lower half of the 
omelet, pour on one or two tablespoon- 
fuls of raspberry sauce, then fold and 
turn upon a hot serving dish; set more 
peaches above and around the omelet 
and pour raspberry sauce over the whole. 
To make the sauce from fresh berries, 
let a pint of berries and a cup of sugar 
be mixed together; after standing half 
an hour, crush the berries with a pestle 
and rub the pulp through a strainer. 
With canned berries, press through a 
sieve, cook until thickened, add sugar 
and cook again, stirring to avoid 
burning. 




GRAHAM CRACKER CAKE 



40 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




INDIVIDUAL STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE 



Graham Cracker Cake 



Pineapple Pie (S. J. E.) 



Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
beat in two-thirds a cup of sugar, two 
egg-yolks, beaten light, and, alternately, 
one cup of milk and two-thirds a pound of 
graham crackers rolled and sifted, then 
sifted again with three level teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of cinnamon or mace; lastly, beat in the 
whites of two eggs beaten dry. Bake 
in a pan about 12 x 7 inches. When 
cold cut in halves and put together with 
chocolate mocha frosting; cut in pieces 
suitable for serving (3 x IJ inches) and 
pipe more of the frosting above; finish 
with half a maraschino cherry in the 
center of the frosting. 



Sift together one cup of sifted pastry 
flour, and one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and baking powder; cut 
in four tablespoonfuls of shortening, 
then add water, a little at a time, and 
mix to a paste; turn two-thirds of the 
pastry on a board dredged with flour to 
coat it lightly with flour, then pat and 
roll into a thin sheet; spread this over 
an inverted plate, trim as needed on 
the edge, prick all over with a fork and 
let bake until done. When cooled a 
little remove from the outside to the in- 
side of the plate and turn in the filling. 
Roll the rest of the pastry into a long 
strip and cut into bands half an inch 
wide; set these over the filling, lattice 




BRIDE'S CAKE 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



41 



fashion, dredge with granulated sugar, 
and let bake until an amber color. 
Serve partially cooled. 

Filling for Pineapple Pie 

Scald a can (about one pint) of grated 
pineapple in a double boiler; sift to- 
gether six (level) tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch, half a teaspoonful of salt and 
one cup of granulated sugar until thor- 
oughly mixed, then stir and cook in the 
hot pineapple until the mixture thickens ; 
cover and let cook about fifteen minutes ; 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter and the 
juice of half a lemon, mix thoroughly 
and turn into the pastry. 

Individual Strawberry Shortcakes 

Sift together two cups of sifted pastry 
flour, half a cup of cornstarch, five tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder and half a 
teaspoonful of salt; cut in one-third a 
cup of shortening. Beat one egg, add 
three-fourths a cup of milk and stir into 
the dry mixture, adding more milk, if 
needed, to make a soft dough that cleans 
the mixing bowl. Turn upon a floured 
board, knead slightly, pat and roll into 
a thin sheet and cut into rounds with a 
fluted patty cutter dipped in boiling 
water each time before use. Bake in 
a quick oven. Split each biscuit and 
spread with butter. Put the two pieces 
together with sugared berries between 
and on top. Finish with whipped 
cream, or a spoonful of confectioners' 
sugar. To prepare the berries, hull, 
wash and drain, cut in halves and let 
stand some time mixed with granulated 
sugar; stir occasionally to facilitate the 
melting of the sugar. 

Strawberry Tart 

(Page 33) 

Cut out a round of puff or flaky paste 
about seven inches in diameter; lay a 
white paper on a baking sheet and slide 
the pastry upon it; pipe a row of chou- 
paste on the edge of the round of paste 
and let bake until done (about 12 min- 



utes). Pipe the rest of the pastry on 
a buttered baking sheet, using a star 
tube and making rosette-shapes. Let 
bake until they feel light and dry. Stir 
a little boiling water into half a cup of 
confectioner's sugar. Set the round of 
pastry on a serving dish, dip the under 
side of the rosettes in the sugar paste and 
press them on the chou -paste on the edge 
of the round; set these close together 
and entirely around the pastry. When 
ready to serve, fill with one or two baskets 
of strawberries, hulled, washed, cut in 
halves and mixed with sugar. Deco- 
rate with whipped cream or a little con- 
fectioner's sugar. To serve, cut as a 
pie in triangular pieces. Let the berries 
stand mixed with the sugar half an hour 
or longer before use. 

Bride's Cake 



I 1 level teaspoonful 
i baking powder 
I 4 egg whites, beaten 
I light 



I cup butter 

1^ cups sugar 

Grated rind 1 lemon 

^ cup milk 

2 1 cups flour I 

Cream the butter; gradually beat in 
the sugar and grated rind; add the milk, 
alternately, with the flour sifted with the 
baking powder, and, lastly, the egg- 
whites. Bake in a tube pan about forty 
minutes. When cold cover with a boiled 
frosting into which half-melted marsh- 
mallows are beaten. See May number 
of magazine. Flavor the frosting with 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of almond and 
half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 

Fruit Punch 

(Page 9) 

Mix together one pint of fresh-made 
tea, the juice of six lemons, the juice of 
one dozen oranges, one cup of prune 
juice, 2 cups of pineapple juice (canned 
grated pineapple wrung in a cloth) , 2 cups 
of strawberry syrup or juice, one cup of 
sugar syrup and two quarts of water; 
store in glass jars, carefully sealed, in a 
refrigerator; when ready to use, add 
plain or carbonated water to suit the 
taste. 



Balanced Menus for Week in June 



Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Finnan Haddie Balls, Bacon . 

Radishes Pop Overs 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato-and- Chicken Bouillon 

Cheese Tid Bits (crackers) 

Beef Tenderloin, Roasted 

Mashed Potatoes,Vienna Style Green Peas 

Lettuce and Garden Cress, French Dressing 

Graham Bread Strawberry Sherbet 

Graham Cracker Cake 

Supper 

Creamed Asparagus on Toast 

Sugared Strawberries 

Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Salmon-and- Potato Cakes 

Bacon Cress 

Graham and French Bread, Toasted 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Asparagus Soup 

Cheese Tid Bits (crackers) 

Cream Rhubarb Pie Grapejuice 

Dinner 

Baked Ham, Currant Jelly Sauce 

Spinach 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Cottage Pudding, Strawberry Sauce 

Cream Cheese Half Cups Coffee 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Stewed Prunes 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

(whole wheat) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold Beef Tenderloin 
Sliced Asparagus cooked as Peas 
Creamed Potatoes 
Rhubarb Pie Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled Fowl, Bechamel Sauce 

Bermuda Onions 

Lettuce, Cress and Sliced Tomatoes, 

French Dressing 

Date Whip, Cream and Sugar 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Spanish Omelet 

Cornmeal Muffins French Rolls, Toasted 

Orange-and-Pineapple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold Baked Ham, Sliced Thin 
Cold Spinach with Sliced Eggs, 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Wholewheat Bread and Butter 

Jell-0 with Strawberries 

Dinner 

Breaded Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce 

New Cabbage, Boiled 

New Potatoes Fried in Deep Fat 

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 

Pineapple Pie 



Breakfast 

Frizzled Dried Beef 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Radishes 

Lady Finger Rolls (reheated) 

Rhubarb Marmalade Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Chicken Roll, Bechamel Sauce 
Lettuce, French Dressing 
Baked Tapioca Pudding, Vanilla Sauce 
Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato-and- Chicken Soup 
Boiled Fresh or Salted Salmon, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Chives 

Green Peas 

Individual Strawberry Shortcakes 

Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Sliced Bananas, 

Thin Cream 

Eggs Shirred with Cream 

and Ham 

Boston Brown Bread (reheated) 

German Coffee Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 



Breakfast 

Corn Puffs, Thin Cream 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 

Small Baked Potatoes Ryemeal Biscuit 

Potato Doughnuts Blueberries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Ham Timbales, Cream Sauce 

French Fried Potatoes 

New Cabbage Salad 

Frozen Apricots Honey Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Filets of Blue Fish Stuffed and Baked 

Mashed Potatoes New Stringless Beans 

Cucumber-and-Radish Salad 

Frozen Apricots (left over) 

Macaroons 



Luncheon 

Cream of Spinach Soup 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding 

(large raisins) 



42 



Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef, en Surprise, 

Brown Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes Green Peas 

Lettuce, French Dressing with 

Onion Juice 

Chocolate Marshmallow Cream 

Roll, Hot Chocolate Sauce 



Balanced Menus for Week in July 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Eggs Shirred with Bread Crumbs 

and Asparagus Tips 

Blueberries 

Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Steamed Fowl, Browned in Oven 

Mashed Potatoes Beet Greens 

Summer Squash, well Buttered 

Omelet, Melba Style Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Clams 

Cold Beet Greens with SHced Eggs, 

French Dressing 

Sugared Pineapple Wholewheat Bread 



Breakfast 

Red Raspberries 
Curry of Sword Fish Small Baked Potatoes 
Spider Corn Cake Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stuffed Veal Cutlets en Casserole 

Lettuce and Peppergrass, French Dressing 

Boiled Onions, Buttered 

Raspberry Sherbet or 

Raspberry Bavarian Cream 

Nabisco Wafers 

Supper 

Green Peas 

Dry Toast 

Hot Blueberry Tea Cake, Butter 

Cream Cheese 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Thin Cream 

Blueberries Creamed Dried Beef 

Mashed Potato Cakes, Saute 

French Bread, Toasted 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Ham Braised with Mushrooms, 

Currant Jelly Sauce 

Potatoes Scalloped with Green Pepper 

New Cabbage, Boiled and Buttered 

Blueberry Pie 

Supper 

Fowl Scalloped with Kornlet 
Red Raspberries 
Baking Powder Biscuit Tea 



* Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Milk 
Eggs Shirred with Sausage 
Wholewheat Muffins Blueberries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef, en Surprise 
String Beans 
Scalloped Tomatoes 
Canned Apple Pie Cottage Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese Pudding 

Cold String Beans, French Dressing 

with Onion Juice 

Black Raspberries Honey Cookies 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Cold Ham, Sliced Thin, Radishes 

■ Potatoes Hashed in Milk 

Cornmeal Muffins French Bread, Toasted 

Orange or Kumquat Marmalade 

Dinner 

Green Pea Soup (Chicken Broth) 

Sword Fish, Fried 

Lettuce with Beets, Stuffed with 

Chopped Cucumber, French Dressing • 

Wholewheat Bread 

Individual Raspberry Shortcakes 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham 

Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted 

Blueberries Graham Cracker Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Oranges 

Broiled Sardines on Toast 

Cream of Wheat Mush, Fried 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Emergency Soup 

Baked Bluefish, Italian Style, Olives 

Mashed Potatoes Summer Squash 

Lettuce-and-Mustard Leaves, 

French Dressing 

Lemon Sherbet 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Dried Beef 

Baked Potatoes 

French Rolls Stewed Prunes 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Blueberries, Thin Cream 

Salt Mackerel Cooked in Milk 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Potato Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Boiled Corn Beef 

Boiled Potatoes 

New Turnips, Boiled Beet Greens 

Delmonico Pudding with Canned 

Peaches 

Half Cups Coffee 

43 



Supper 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and 

Sliced Eggs 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Junket Ice Cream 



Cooking Out-of-Doors 

By Mrs. J. V. Roach 



A LITTLE attention to essential 
details will often convert an 
uncomfortable vacation, "just 
roughing it", into most delightful days 
of outing. Bad cooking has caused more 
unpleasantness among friends in camp 
than any other one discomfort. Lovers 
of out-of-doors, who will bear up stoically 
under heavy rains, leaky tents and 
mosquitoes, will succumb before a piece 
of doughy, smoked camp bread; and 
yet there is no need to court discomfort 
when camping, by having bad or in- 
digestible food. 

The simplest way to cook while in 
camp is over a stove or fireplace made 
by digging a hole one foot deep and two 
feet square and partly filling it with 
stones. Around three sides build a 
wall about eight inches high and on top 
place a large, fiat stone, leaving an 
opening at the back for the smoke to 
escape. Or you can take with you a 
piece of thin sheet iron for the top of 
your stove, in case a stone, large and 
fiat enough, cannot be found; the iron 
heats much quicker and can be obtained 
for a small sum. Of course, a portable 
folding camp stove is ideal for cooking 
but, when just out for the sport of 
roughing it, a fireplace made on the 
spot will do very well . 

It is a good plan to gather a supply of 
wood and keep it in a dry place so that 
your patience will not be strained to the 
breaking point trying to cook after a fall 
of rain has soaked everything. Any 
sort of wood will do for ordinary cooking, 
but for broiling or baking in the hot 
ashes, coals from hardwood are best. 



The most desirable and nutritious 
articles that can be easily packed and 
transported are fiour, cornmeal, navy 
beans, coffee, tea, salt, pepper, baking 
powder, condensed milk or milk powder, 
bacon or salt pork, butter, sugar, onions 
and potatoes. If more of a variety is 
desired, add a few cans of tomatoes and 
some dried fruits. 

To make good coffee at home is a 
science; to make coffee in camp is an 
art. One of the secrets of successful 
coffee is the thorough washing of the 
pot every time it is used, as there is a 
little bitter oil which fills every available 
corner in the pot, and. one day old, spoils 
the best efforts at coffee making. 
Another secret in making camp coffee 
is to keep the pot closed, even stopping 
up the spout so that none of the aroma 
can escape in the open air. Allow one 
tablespoonful of ground coffee to each 
cup of water and one tablespoonful 
extra for good measure; start with cold 
water and shove forward to a hot place 
on the camp stove to let come to a boil 
when the rest of the meal is ready to 
serve; dash in half a cup of cold water 
and let stand a few minutes to settle, 
and the coffee will be clear and a joy 
to the dweller in tents. 

Camp bread is one of the tests of a 
good outdoor cook. The commonest 
fault is in having too much heat; the 
beginner usually burns the first few 
batches of biscuit. The simplest utensil 
for baking in camp is a shallow iron 
kettle standing on three legs and with 
an iron cover, or an iron griddle with a 
heavy cover can be used; for either 



44 



COOKING OUT-OF-DOORS 



45 



baker rake coals to one side from the fire, 
set utensil over them, place biscuit in- 
side, cover, and heap coals on top and 
leave from twenty minutes to half an 
hour. A cook soon learns the right 
amount of heat necessary to bake the 
different camp breads. Camp biscuit 
are made by mixing one quart of flour, 
five level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
one teaspoonful of salt, and one-third 
a cup of butter or pork drippings, with 
sufficient water to make a dough easily 
handled. Mold into small cakes and 
bake in baker. If you want to make 
butter cakes, mold biscuit dough into 
flat cakes and bake slowly in iron griddle 
on top of stove, turning several times to 
prevent burning; split while warm and 
butter. For corn bread mix cornmeal 
with cold water or milk, season with 
salt, grease kettle liberally, and bake in 
thin sheet with plenty of hot coals both 
below and on top of kettle. 

Very convenient for the camper is the 
prepared flour which is accurately mixed 
with the leavening and only requires 
wetting with milk or water to make 
pancakes. Have the pancake batter the 
consistency of thick cream and pour on 
piping hot griddle, well oiled; when 
the pancakes begin to bubble, it is time 
to turn them over to bake on the other 
side. Cornmeal pancakes are made 
by mixing two cups of meal with one of 
flour and four or five level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder; season with salt and 
bake on hot griddle. 

Beans, one- of the main reliances for 
the woodsman, are delicious cooked in a 
bean-hole. This must be dug deep and 
wide and lined with small stones. In 
making the fire, hardwood should be 
used, and when the fire is reduced to a 
bed of coals, remove half of them, insert 
the pot of beans, closely covered, and 
pack the coals that were removed 
closely about the sides and top; then 
pile dirt on top of all and stamp down 
well to make it air-tight. If the beans 
have been boiled until the skin will 
crack, it will take about ten or twelve 



hours for them to cook in a bean-hole. 
The beans should be soaked overnight 
before boiling and salt pork added to 
them before placing in bean-hole, always 
being sure that plenty of water is used 
to prevent scorching. 

A fireless cooker will prove first aid to 
the camp cook and is so easily made 
that every camp should be supplied 
with one. All that is needed for this 
convenience is a yard of asbestos, that 
can be folded away in the camp outfit 
for transportation. Line a hole in the 
ground with common newspaper with 
an inner lining of asbestos and fill hole 
with dry leaves or grass ; make a nest in 
the center of leaves, lining it with 
asbestos, large enough to hold a kettle 
with tight-fitting lid. Cover the kettle 
when in use as a cooker with more as- 
bestos and pile leaves or hay over all 
with a liberal coating of sand or dirt to 
exclude air. The great secret of cooking 
in this fireless cooker is to have the 
food boiling in the kettle, being careful 
not to lift lid to allow steam to escape, 
before placing in hole or nest. Cereals 
can be prepared overnight in this 
primitive cooker, or food, requiring a 
number of hours to cook, can be kept 
cooking all day and will be ready for 
campers returning at night from a day's 
tramp or fishing. 

Game can be cooked over the camp- 
fire to suit an epicure: Draw, skin and 
wash a bird and split up the back; 
flatten out with the side of an ax and 
season with salt and pepper. Let a fire 
from hardwood burn down to a bright 
bed of coals ; remove top of fire place and 
broil halves of birds fastened on the ends 
of long sticks. Butter when nearly 
done and hold over fire a moment to 
brown. To roast birds in their feathers, 
draw and wash thoroughly inside, 
seasoning with salt and pepper liberally; 
then cover outside with wet clay and 
bury in red hot coals. In forty minutes 
remove from fire; peel off clay and the 
feathers and skin will come, too; pour 
melted butter over birds before serving:. 



46 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Fish is best fried in hot fat, first 
rolling in corn meal and seasoning well 
with pepper and salt. If you want to 
test a fireless cooker, a chowder is a 
delicious meal to return to after a day 
spent in exploring nearby woods and 
hills: Cut a slice (2 or 3 ounces) of salt 
pork into cubes, clean and cut up about 
three pounds of fish into small pieces, 
slice six large potatoes and three onions, 
cover with water and boil, seasoning 
with pepper and salt; when boiling 
briskly pack in fireless cooker for 
several hours. A dash of tomato sauce 
adds to the flavor of the chowder. (See 
recipe for fish chowder in Seasonable 
Recipes this issue of magazine.) 

To keep the lover of sweets from 
getting homesick for the desserts served 
at home, dumplings can be made from 
ripe fruits. Make a dough as for camp 
biscuits and mold into fiat round disks ; 
by the way, a bottle is a good substitute 
for a rolling pin and a piece of white 
oilcloth makes an excellent baking 
board. Into each disk place a table- 
spoonful of stewed fruit — apricots are 
delicious — and pinch dough tightly 
together, making a round ball with the 



fruit all snugly covered up in the center ; 
have a kettle of boiling water ready and 
drop the balls in and cook twenty 
minutes. Serve with sugar and butter. 
There are any number of simple camp 
dishes that can be easily prepared by 
the cook with the interest of the campers 
at heart. But equally as important as 
the cooking is the housekeeping arrange- 
ment while in camp, which should be as 
cleanly and orderly as in the home 
kitchen. All garbage should be burned 
and refuse of every kind either burned 
or buried before it draws insects. Every- 
thing possible should be kept in air- 
tight receptacles and no food should be 
exposed to the dust or insects. A wise 
cook soon learns how much to prepare 
for each meal so that the cooked food 
can always be fresh cooked. This keep- 
ing clear of left-overs in camp is an easy 
matter, as hearty appetites will often 
make a bit of lunch between meals 
acceptable. All food, fresh, clean and 
well cooked, will keep the tempers of 
the campers equally as fresh, sweet and 
clean and life in the out-of-doors will 
prove a joy to the soul and health to 
the body. 



Through Peace To Light 



I do not ask, O Lord, that life may be 

A pleasant road; 
I do not ask that thou should 'st take from me 

Aught of its load. 



I do not ask, O Lord, that thou shouldst shed 

Full radiance here; 
Give but a ray of peace, that I may tread 

Without a fear. 



I do not ask that flowers should always spring 

Beneath my feet; 
I know too well the poison and the sting 

Of things too sweet. 



I do not ask my cross to understand, 

My way to see — 
Better in darkness just to feel thy hand, 

And follow thee. 



For one thing only, Lord, dear Lord, I plead 

Lead me aright — 
Though strength should falter and though heart 
should bleed — 

Through peace to light. 



Joy is like restless day, but peace divine 

Like quiet night; 
Lead me, O Lord, till perfect day shall shine, 

Through peace to light. 

Adelaide Proctor. 



What a Housekeeper Should Know About "Calories" 

By Edwin Tenney Brewster 



THERE is many a housekeeper, 
and many a "mealer," who would 
be glad to utilize something of 
our sound modern knowledge of foods 
and diet — to the probable advantage to 
health, and the certain profit to pocket- 
book. 

But there is a lion in the way. All 
scientific nutrition is founded on the 
"calorie." And "calorie" sounds so very 
formidable and scientific that most of us 
are frightened off at the start and never 
really get under way with what might ^ 
be a useful and interesting branch of 
knowledge. 

Yet the panic is quite unbased. The 
"calorie" is simply the name for the 
work done in lifting one hundred pounds 
thirty feet into the air. It is -one cal- 
orie of work to pump a hundred pounds 
of water out of a thirty-foot well; or 
weighing one hundred pounds, to climb 
three flights of stairs ten feet between 
floors. ' Any sort of pull or push that 
gives 3000 as the product of the force 
and the distance involves one calorie 
of work though it be a locomotive pull- 
ing a load of freight one inch or a swallow 
skimming over miles. 

Much of the work, however, which we 
human beings do, does not show. Our 
hearts pump all day long and all night. 
We suck in our breath several times 
a minute. We keep pulling our muscles 
merely to hold ourselves in place. It 
takes work to digest the food that 
makes any work possible. In a cold 
climate half the day's labor is in keep- 
ing warm. 

One thing with another, a woman 
playing lady does about 1800 calories 
of work each day. A hard worked 
farmer may do twice as much. It may 
take forty calories an hour to maintain 
a fever; a hundred more to walk rapidly 
than to lie still, five hundred to play 



through a football match. In brief, 
one calorie per minute is about a tenth 
of a horsepower; and we commonly, 
one thing with another, do rather less 
than twenty calories each day for each 
pound of weight. 

But unfortunately for the beginner 
at scientific housekeeping there are 
three different units all called by the 
same name, calorie. The dictionaries 
define "calorie" as the work done in 
heating one gram of water through one 
centigrade degree. This is the so- 
called "small calorie" — the one used by 
physicists. This calorie is only one 
thousandth of the household unit, the 
so-called "large" calorie. It is, in other 
words, the work done in lifting one 
pound about three feet. Alas, there 
are many magazine articles and, at least, 
one school textbook of household science, 
which copy the dictionary definition 
of one calorie and then use everywhere 
the other — to the reader's marked 
confusion. 

The dietetic calorie is then a thou- 
sand times greater than the dictionary 
one — the work done in lifting a hun- 
dred pounds about thirty feet, or in 
heating a thousand grams of water 
just one degree. This "large" calorie 
is, therefore, often called the "kilogram 
calorie." Since, however, a kilogram 
of water — two and two tenths pounds 
— measures just a liter, the English, 
especially, sometimes speak of it as 
the "liter calorie." 

Large calorie, kilogram calorie, and 
liter calorie are, then, only different 
names for the same thing. Plain 
"calorie," unqualified, should always 
mean this unit when used of the food 
or the work of individuals or families. 

But while we measure dress goods in 
yards, we commonly reckon the dis- 
tance from New York to Chicago in 



47 



48 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



miles. Likewise, when we discuss the 
nutrition of a nation, we use a still 
larger "calorie," the kiloliter calorie, 
which is a thousand ''large" calories. 
Farmers, also, in feeding stock, find 
this the most convenient unit. "Therm" 
is the farm name for it. 

Turning now to the other side of the 
ledger, for every calorie of work that 
we do, we must digest a calorie's worth 
of food. If we take less, we shall do our 
work on our own tissues and lose weight. 
If we assimilate more food than we work 
off, we shall grow heavier — which 
may or may not be an advantage. 

But foods differ greatly in their 
nutrition. A pint of beef -broth con- 
tains only 40 calories of energy, so 
some eight gallons would be needed 
to put one through a light day's labor. 
The same day's effort could be made on 
a peck of turnips; or on three and a 
half pounds of lean beef; or on some- 
what more than one pound of bread- 
and-butter, depending on who did the 
spreading. 

The obvious way, then, to reckon 
the nutriment of any food is in calories- 
per-pound. This is the commonest 
unit, and the one used by the United 
States Department of Agriculture in 
its famous "Bulletin 28" and other 
publications. Persons on diet, on the 
other hand, since they rarely eat a 
pound of any one thing at a meal, find the 



calorie-per-ounce, the more convenient 
unit. The nutrition tables of the san- 
atorium at Battle Creek, for example, 
and the nutrition values on the daily 
menu cards are all in calories-per-ounce. 
Practically, a housekeeper purchasing 
for her family, interested in getting the 
most nutrition for her money, and com- 
monly buying by the pound, will find it 
most convenient to think in calories-per- 
pound. But a "mealer", watching his 
food as it comes on the table, often will 
think more easily in calories-per-ounce. 
If we ever reach a stage of civilization 
where we are able to use the calories- 
per-gram, that will be very much the 
easiest of all. 

So after all, the "calorie" is not 
really formidable. It is merely, on the 
one hand, the measure of the worker's 
toil, and on the other, of the energy 
in his food which makes that toil pos- 
sible. So much "work" for the body 
— so much "nutrition" in the food — 
and the same unit for measuring them 
both. 

But the foundation of frugal purchase 
and of wise consumption is in learning 
to think "calories" of foodstuffs, as 
one thinks "yards" of dress goods, or 
"blocks" of distance. 

The tables in the author's " Nutrition of a 
Household" are nearly or quite unique in printing 
fuel values in both calories -per-pound and 
calories-per-ounce. 



A Mountain Evening 



Within the vale the thrushes tell 
The watches of the eve, 

And on the heights the pines in grief 
Immemorial grieve. 



Below where shadows blend in dusk 
Appears a bud of light 

That blooms into a golden rose. 
The fairest of the night. 



The shy wind woos the wild-rose heart 

In forest bowers deep, 
And brook to brook is murmuring 

The secret themes of sleep. 



And toward the homelight's beckoning glow, 

The road's dim length along 
A lassie goes with happy step, 

Singing an old love song! 

, Arthur Wallace Peach. 



On Being Early in the Country 

By Beulah Rector 



SO far, not even a neighbor's offer 
of a bushel of crabapples for jelly 
has been sufficient to prolong our 
autumn stay in the country. It is one 
of the most provoking things I know, — 
seeing the red leaves hung up, the road- 
sides banked with purple asters, hearing 
the preliminary orchestral sounds of 
cricket and blue jay, sniffing the frost 
in the air, and then just before the cur- 
tain rises on this pageant of October in 
the Hills having to troop back to town 
to get the younger children ready for 
school. 

But in June our time comes. Then 
do we feel in a measure even with the 
friends who wrote all fall how sunny and 
warm the days still were; how like a 
mountain on fire Monadnock looked 
with her scarlet leaves! 

While the Bushnells are arguing with 
the builder of their new house in Texas, 
we are nodding to the Strafford post- 
mistress and asking the Joslyn boys how 
much ice they cut in the winter. While 
the Scherrers are still doing their New 
York clothes-buying, we are driving up 
the country road with our baggage. 
Complacently, we note that the Davis' 
cottage is tight with shutters, and the 
grass on the Bradfords' lawn is as high 
as your knees. 

Well as we know our old-fashioned 
cottage, it is always with a spirit of 
unexpectedness that we explore the 
rooms. But for this we never have but 
a few minutes. Almost immediately a 
little voice calls, "Mrs. Bixby wants you 
to come over and see the new Jersey 
calf." 

''And the dining room they papered 
themselves, and the baby pig," puts in 
another. 

Of course, we must go. Indeed, we 
always expect to go before unpacking 
the trunks and deciding who shall have 



what bureau drawers, and how the 
shelves in the sitting room cupboard 
shall be divided. 

We feel the season has been properly 
opened then, when the new animals have 
been reviewed, and the freshly papered 
rooms exclaimed over, and Jim's tulip 
bed admired, which was "so handsome 
when the flowers was all blowed." 

It is reassuring to discover that these 
good farming neighbors of ours are still 
"just the same." Mrs. Bixby continues 
to say, "Dear, dear!" and laughs with 
one eye shut and a plump hand held over 
her mouth. Horace Bixby relates what 
he likes best to eat, how rugged he used 
to be when he was young, what the next 
war will be; nor does he omit to remark 
each morning as he lurches rheumat- 
ically in with the milk, "Up kinda early 
this mornin', ain't you?" 

"I'd rather be here early now," sug- 
gests Isabel breaking into her brown egg 
at the supper table, "than have stayed 
last fall and had it all over." 

It is a sentiment in which we all share. 

This really would be the opportunity 
for writing our late-staying friends a 
number of tantalizing things about lilac 
odors, June pinks, bird song, the grass 
cut under our windows that makes the 
air sweet as Indian baskets. 

These days in early June have a char- 
acter all their own. They are very 
green and wonderfully still. We thrill 
with gratitude to feel the quick grass 
under our feet as we step from the front 
door. Charmed, awed, we are content 
to stay about our white cottage. Why 
go adventuring when right at home we 
know that while revelling in the beauty 
of the hills seen from the front yard, we 
are missing the little wild back yard with 
its lapful of buttercups and caraway 
flowers, and the mountain beyond with 
its changing cloud shadows? 



49 



50 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Unless Jim Bixby catches them, our 
neighbors' chickens are safe in the road 
these days; for no automobiles pass. 
Indeed, the only vehicle whose coming 
is assured is the rattling Rural Delivery 
buggy at five, — the only thing beside 
hunger and the sun to really mark the 
time of day. 

Occasionally, a single wagon creaks 
by, a dull-looking man and woman on 
the seat, a child squeezed in between 
them. 

If the St. Bernard comes suddenly 
across the lawn, head up, tail out, and 
starts in business-like fashion down the 
road, we recall it is butcher's day, and 
pretty soon Mrs. Bixby herself waddles 
out and takes her place under the wagon 
flap, Roger waiting patiently for the 
bone which he will probably have to 
"bury up," being at present too aware 
of a recent woodchuck steak. 

Or'Ta Mason," the grocer, drives up 
with his white-faced horse, delivers his 
order, and not being rushed in the early 
season, takes a chair and narrates his 
experience as a prisoner in Anderson- 
ville half a century ago. 

More rarely the Tea Man goes 
through in his black cart. No wonder 
the sound of wheels comes to bring the 
country people to the windows. After 
a time we, too, involuntarily make a 
like response. 

Then one day we hear that "Grandma 
Joslyn" has been seen crocheting on the 
porch of her old gray hill house. * ' Grand- 
ma' ' is known to move from her winter 
quarters in the valley to her summer 
quarters on the hill with the same reg- 
ularity that a certain housekeeper of my 
acquaintance puts up strawberries. Al- 
ways, June fourteenth. Never before or 
after. I glance in alarm at the calendar. 
Can it be our shining days are already 
dropping away — that our longest day 
is so near? 

While facing this unhappy possibility. 



the youngest boy proudly holds forth 
a pail of ripe blueberries. They desire 
canning rubbers and it is my turn to go 
to the grocer's. 

In the store, where but a week pre- 
viously the veteran had invited me to a 
seat on the bread-box and told of his 
last G. A. R. encampment, the atmos- 
phere had changed. 

One customer has just gone out. A 
little boy comes in with a note requesting 
a pound of mixed cookies. The old 
gentleman holds the paper in trembling 
fingers, fumbles for another pair of 
spectacles, then turning to the child with 
the shaking note says, "We're so rushed 
now, Prentiss, can you wait and come 
back at noon?" 

Something has happened. On the 
way up the hill I met Mrs. Walter 
Seaver bound for the Ladies' Aid. 
She waves her sewing-bag at me. 
"We're getting ready for the church 
fair; there's only six more weeks, you 
know." 

"As I near our own little white cottage 
under the maples, I catch a glimpse of 
Mrs. Bixby waving from her back porch. 
She has news. I see it in her very bear- 
ing. "Hattie Barker's just telephoned 
over that the Scherrers' trunks came on 
the eleven o'clock freight, and Miss 
Em'ly'll be here to-morrow. That'll 
be in time for her to have her Fourth of 
July party next week, same as she always 
does." 

"Fourth of July next week?" I stare 
in amazement. I open the door of the 
cottage that has seen a century of 
Independence Days. "Fourth of July 
is only a week away. The Scherrers 
are coming to-morrow," is my wistful 
proclamation. 

"Well," — and there is a suggestion 
of triumph at the priority, — "weren't 
we here the fourth of June, — weeks 
and weeks before any of the other city 
people thought of coming?" 




Home Ideas 

and 
«EcONOMIE.S^ 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Home-made Dollars 

THESE days every business has a 
side-line," twinkled my friend, 
the music teacher, "even I have 
mine. Not long ago I came across some 
particularly good greeting cards, and 
purchased several to have ready for the 
needful occasions. I had left these lying 
on the table in the music-room when a 
piano tuner came to the house and 
happened to notice them. 'Why,' he 
exclaimed, 'I've been looking for just 
such cards. You wouldn't sell any, I 
suppose?' I told him I would. 

" Only a few weeks later I had a letter 
from a complete stranger. She had 
heard I knew the source of certain 
clever cards and wondered where she 
could find more like the one I sent her. 
I began to think; I wrote the author- 
publisher of cards, and to-day I'm 
making odd bits of pin money with a 
Greeting Card Agency." 

In our town is a girl who was regret- 
ing that she was unable to earn anything 
at home. She heard one of the high 
school teachers complaining about the 
many essays that had to be ' corrected 
outside of school hours. This college 
girl thought the matter over, then went 
to the high school principal and dis- 
cussed it with him. The superintend- 
ent was likewise consulted. Shortly 
afterward, it was decided to hand all the 
essay correcting over to the college girl 
and to pay her twenty-five cents an 
hour for her efforts. Thus, still re- 
maining at home and using only her 
spare time, she was enabled, by work- 



ing a few hours a day, to earn between 
twelve and fourteen dollars a month. 

The demand for home-made cakes at 
church suppers started another young 
person into a good field. Ladies serving 
_on supper committees did not always 
find it convenient to do their own cake 
baking, and first one and then another 
left their orders with my friend. But 
this was merely the beginning. With 
care and infinite patience popularity 
soon followed, and to-day, if there is 
a sale or an afternoon tea, or even a 
wedding, they say, "Let's telephone 
Miss Goodwin to make the cake and 
sandwiches." 

At a much-frequented skating park 
an alert girl saw in the hungry skaters an 
opportunity for money making. One 
day a week store-sandwiches and coffee 
were sold in a stuffy coat room. There 
was ready sale for these wares, but 
never enough to go around. So one 
Saturday when the pond was sure to be 
thronged, she despatched thither a 
small boy with a large basket placarded 
"Sandwiches." Before dark the little 
boy was back; his basket was empty, 
but his pockets jingled with dimes and 
nickels. This plan has worked well; 
she will try it again when the pleasure 
seekers return for boating and picnicking 
in the summer. 

A good cook certainly possesses an 
enviable talent. One woman with such 
ability has made quite a success in giving 
private lessons to girls intending to be 
married. Twice a week she goes to the 
homes of each of these girls under her 
instruction, where together they prepare 



51 



52 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



a simple meal, or spend the morning at 
some particular line of cooking, as cake 
making or cooky baking. 

Saturday is the welcome day to half 
a dozen mothers of a certain community. 
Then they are assured of a day to them- 
selves, while, for a reasonable recom- 
pense, a young lady with a gift for un- 
derstanding children entertains or in- 
structs the little people of the several 
families. This scheme has proven satis- 
factory to the mothers, of pecuniary 
profit to the Saturday Lady, and is 
looked forward to by the children as 
the greatest lark of the week. B. R. 
* * * 

Some Uses of Left-Overs 

THE skill of the good cook is gauged 
by her clever use of left-overs. 
Almost anyone can take fresh supplies 
and make an appetizing meal, but it 
tests the ingenuity of a cook to use what 
she has in a pleasing manner. 

Have you ever tried Maryland Chow- 
der? It is substantial and delicious, 
and can be varied to meet what you 
happen to have on hand. 

Use equal parts of canned tomatoes 
and corn. If quantities vary a little, 
it will be all right. If the tomatoes and 
corn were left over from yesterday's 
dinner and seasoned, so much the better. 
If too thick, add a cup of hot water. 
A tablespoonful of minced onion or a 
little chopped, boiled, cold onion added 
to the chowder will give relish. Pare, 
slice thin, and parboil three potatoes. 
Add these to the chowder and simmer 
until tender. Lastly, add a pinch of 
soda, a cup of hot milk, a tablespoonful 
of butter, and thicken with a tablespoon- 
ful of cornstarch which has been rubbed 
smooth in a little cold water. Serve 
very hot with crisp sal tines. 

It is perplexing sometimes to see only 
about half enough meat for the next 
meal, and to realize that something 
should be done with it at once. Try 
this: 

Mince your meat fine. Prepare twice 



as much boiled rice, one small minced 
onion, and half a green pepper for each 
pint of the mixture. Mix the meat, 
rice, onion, and green pepper together. 
For each pint, add one cup of canned 
tomato. Season. If not quite moist 
enough, add a little gravy or hot water, 
and a tablespoonful of butter. Cover 
with crumbs and bake. 

When you have a bottle of milk sour, 
do not lose the golden opportunity to 
have some of the most delicious dough- 
nuts you ever ate or a batch of par- 
ticularly toothsome waffles. Here are 
the rules : 

Doughnuts 

IJ cups sugar 

2 eggs 

J cup melted butter 

IJ cups loppard milk 

1 teaspoonful soda, rounded, dissolved 
in a little of the sour milk. 

Spice to taste, salt. Do not mix very 
hard. 

Waffles 

2 cups sifted flour 
2 cups sour milk 

1 teaspoonful soda 

J teaspoonful baking powder 

IJ tablespoonfuls melted butter 

1 tablespoonful sugar 

1 egg — well beaten 

Pinch of salt 

Cook on well-greased waffle irons. 
Do not use too much batter, in order 
to have them crisp and brown. 

When a hot day comes and you want 
to make a quick dessert, prepare a mold 
of coffee jelly. There will probably be 
coffee enough left from breakfast, and 
by lunch or dinner time, it -will be nicely 
set. It is delicious served with whipped 
cream, or, better yet, with a pint of 
vanilla ice cream. 

Coffee Jelly 

Soak two level tablespoonfuls of plain 
granulated gelatine in one cup of cold 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



53 



water for ten or fifteen minutes. Add 
three cups of clear, boiling hot coffee 
and one cup of sugar, and stir until all 
is dissolved. Turn into one large or 
individual small molds. Set away to 
harden. E.G.W. 

A Handy Kitchen Convenience 

Measure the end of your kitchen table 
and procure one of the nickeled wall towel 
racks as nearly this length as possible. 
It may be a little shorter, but it cannot 
be longer. The towel rack fastens on to 
the end of the table on each circular 
disc with a couple of screws. This 
makes a handy place to hang towels 
when one is at work. E. G. W. 

Table Protection 

THOSE wishing a neat, durable, 
economical kitchen table cover 
should take a piece of linoleum the size 
of the table and fasten it on securely 
with gilt tacks. Keep a couple of old 
magazines on the table to set hot pans 
of bread or pies on when removing them 
from the oven, and as the outer leaves 
get soiled tear them off. This will save 
the linoleum and it will stay bright and 
new for a long time. 

Sheet Iron Stove Top 

If you have an oil stove, get a tinsmith 
to cut out a piece of sheet iron the size 
of your stove and turn down the edges 
on all sides an inch. Lay this iron on 
the top of your stove. It will not only 
keep the pans and kettles clean, but the 
middle burner will keep the whole top 
hot. Mrs. J. J. O'C. 

* * * 

"Sugar Bread and Tea" . 

IF unexpected guests have permitted 
the "roving spirit" to lead them to 
your doorway and you are in a flurry of 
excitement because there is "no cake in 
the house, or anything out of which to 
make sandwiches," try "Sugar Bread." 



Sugar Bread is better than plain bread 
and butter and it looks more delectable. 
Cut slices of bread about one-fourth an 
inch thick and remove all the crusts. 
Cut the large slices into small squares 
and toast — carefully. When the bread 
is toasted, butter quickly and sprinkle 
plentifully with sugar and cinnamon. 
Return to the oven until the sugar and 
cinnamon have melted into the buttered 
toast and serve hot. 

When you are cutting the lemon for 
the tea be sure to remove all seeds as 
they embitter the flavor of the beverage. 
Place three or four cloves in each slice of 
lemon, and always put the piece of 
lemon into the cup before pouring the 
tea. The hot liquid poured over the 
lemon will bring out its flavor better 
than by adding the slice of lemon after 
the tea has been poured. F. F. 

* * * 

Grape-Fruit Salad 

A GOOD-SIZED grape-fruit. One 
head crisp endive, shredded very 
fine. Take out pulp of grape-fruit, 
catching and saving all the juice. Put 
in the salad-bowl with the endive 
(not forgetting the juice), dress with 
2 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 teaspoonfuls of 
sugar, a dash, each, of salt and pepper. 
Toss and mix well, adding more salt if 
necessary. Should the grape-fruit be 
very sweet, add a scant teaspoonful of 
lemon juice. 

Duck: Roasted ''Game-Fashion" 

When "tame" duck is ready to roast, 
(with or without stuffing) lay over it 
thin slices of fat salt pork. In the pan 
around it put a sliced onion, a bay leaf, 
and half a dozen stalks (not bunches!) 
of celery, cut up. Add a cup of boiling 
water. Baste well while roasting, adding 
more boiling water if necessary. When 
done, take the duck from the pan, skim 
and slightly thicken the gravy before 
straining. Taste before salting. The 
pork often suffices. Duck so roasted can 



54 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



hardly be told from game, and left-over 
bits warmed in the gravy make a 
delicious salmi, with or without olives. 

Blanquette 

Left-over pork or veal chops, that 
have been accidentally over-done, or 
that seem hopelessly dried when cold, 
can be made into a most appetizing 
dish, thus: Cut in small pieces, put in a 
double boiler, cover with fresh milk and 
allow to steep on the back of the stove 
for a couple of hours. Five minutes 
before serving time, make a cream sauce, 
using a tablespoonful, each, of butter 
and flour, and a cup of milk, and pour 
over the meat. When it boils, season 
with salt and pepper, add the pieces 
of meat, and let come to boiling point. 
Have ready yolks of two eggs, beaten 
smoothly. Take the meat from the fire, 
stir in the yolks, smoothly and quickly, 
and serve at once in a hot dish. A. D. 



Church Supper for 200 

Menu 



Chicken Pies 

Peas 

Rolls, Butter 



Beet Relish 

Coffee 

Ice Cream, Candy 



Materials with Cost 



46 Chicken Pies (each serves six) $34.50 

24 Cans Peas 4.56 

400 Rolls 3>.ZZ 

8 Lbs. Butter 2.64 

5 Lbs. Coffee L50 

Sugar. .79 

2 Cans Milk 1.40 

2 Quarts Cream 1.20 

6 Eggs 21 

Beet Relish 1.83 

7 Gallons Ice Cream 14.00 

4 Lbs. Candy 2.70 

Help . 3.50 

Laundry 2.42 

* * * 

Regarding Cottage Cheese 

We are in receipt of several sug- 
gestions in reference to the making of 
cottage cheese. The milk left over from 



the day's supply may be collected, day 
to day, in a covered earthen jar and then 
used, in cool weather, for cheese; but in 
hot weather, the milk will not keep 
in good condition very many days. 

We have tried using boiling water 
to separate the whey from the curd, and 
have also eaten cheese, repeatedly, 
made by others using boiling water, 
and are convinced that such cheese can 
not be compared to the cheese made 
without use of boiling water. In 
summer weather, milk that has been 
drawn from the cow for 36 hours, left 
in a covered receptacle on the kitchen 
table overnight, will usually be thick 
in the morning and in condition to 
hang in a cheesecloth bag. By six 
o'clock — at latest — it may be sea- 
soned and shaped for serving. The curd 
of such cheese is soft and soluble, while 
too often that made by use of boiling 
water is grainy and tough. 

The following may interest the sub- 
scriber whose query was answered 
(partially) some time ago under No. 
2593. This crumb -bread has been tried 
in our kitchen and found to be most 
excellent. For a small family, half the 
recipe (making two small loaves) would 
suffice. Editor. 

Crumb Bread 

A family who has toast daily for 
breakfast and prefer the slices trimmed, 
and also have crumbs (including crusts) 
that are left in preparing sandwiches for 
entertaining, often really have more 
crumbs than can be used. The crumbs 
are dried thoroughly, ground in the 
food-chopper and made into bread that 
is digestible. 

4 cups hot water 2 tablespoonfuls 

1 cup molasses shortening 

2 teaspoonfuls salt j 

When cool add one yeast cake, mixed 
in one cup lukewarm water, 3 cups dried 
bread crumbs, 2 cups graham flour, and 
enough white flour to make a very stiff 
dough. Let rise, work down, place at 
once in tins'; let rise again and bake. 



^ {queries 




ANSWERS 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Colunvbus Ave^ Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2694. — "Recipe for one gallon 
of Grapejuice Sherbet?" 

One Gallon Grapejuice Sherbet 

2 1 quarts water 

5 cups sugar 

3 teaspoonfuls gelatine 



5 cups grapejuice 
11 cups lemon iuice 
J cup cold water 



Boil the water and sugar fifteen 
minutes; add the gelatine softened in 
the cold water and stir until dissolved, 
then let cool; add the fruit juice and 
freeze as usual. 



Query No. 2695. — "Recipe for crisp French 
Rolls such as are served in hotels?" 

Regarding French Rolls 

As bread and rolls in France are not 
baked in private houses, not much 
attention is given to the subject in 
French books on cookery. In American 
cook books various recipes are given 
under the name of French Rolls. Often a 
Vienna roll mixture made with milk and 
eggs, is given for French rolls. French 
bread contains no ingredients save flour. 
yeast, water and salt and we are in- 
clined to think that the ingredients for 
French Rolls differ from those for bread 
simply in the addition of a little 
shortening. 

Recipe for French Rolls 

Mix one cake of compressed yeast and 
half a cup of lukewarm water to a 
smooth consistency, then stir in flour to 
make a dough. Knead the dough until 
smooth and elastic, shaping it into a 
ball. Make two cuts with a knife across 



the top, at right angles to each other, and 
about one-fourth an inch deep. Set the 
ball of dough, cut-side up, in a bowl 
containing two cups of lukewarm water. 
In a few minutes the dough will swell 
and float on the water. In another 
bowl sift five cups of flour and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt; with the tips of the 
fingers work two or three tablespoonfuls 
of butter into the flour; add the ball of 
sponge and the water on which it is 
floating and mix to a soft dough, adding 
flour as is needed. Mix the dough with 
a knife and cut and work it until the 
dough cleans the bowl. Knead the 
dough until it is perfectly smooth and 
elastic. Let stand, close-covered, until 
light; shape into balls, cover with a 
bowl until light, then shape into rolls 
the length of a finger and rather narrow; 
set these some little distance apart. 
When again light bake about twenty-five 
minutes. Brush over with the white of 
an egg, beaten slightly and strained, 
and return to the oven an instant to set 
the glaze. Do not cover while cooling. 



Query No. 2696 
Sherbet?" 



Recipe for Strawberry 

Strawberry Sherbet 



1 quart water 

2 cups sugar 

1 teaspoonful granulated 
gelatine 



2 cups strawberry 
juice 

1 lemon, juice only 

3 tablespoonfuls cold 
water 



Boil the water and sugar rapidly 
fifteen minutes; add the gelatine, 
softened in the cold water, and let chill ; 



55 



56 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



add the strawberry and lemon juice and 
let freeze, using three measures of ice to 
one of salt. To secure the strawberry 
juice, hull, and if necessary wash, the 
berries; crush them with a pestle or 
potato ricer, then strain through a cheese 
cloth, pressing out all the juice possible 
and retaining the seeds in the cloth. 
If the seeds are not objectionable, the 
pulp and juice need not be strained 
after the berries have been pressed 
through the ricer. Many seeds will 
adhere to the ricer. 



Query No. 2697. — "Kindly publish recipes 
for Salads and Sandwiches given in a demon- 
stration of cooking at Springfield, Mass.?" 

Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad 

Cook the prunes as usual but let the 
liquid evaporate toward the last of the 
cooking. Skim out the prunes and set 
aside to become cold. With a sharp- 
pointed knife cut the flesh from the 
stones to make six or more lengthwise 
slices. Cut pecan-nut meats into three 
lengthwise pieces. Over half a pound 
of prunes and one-fourth a pound of nut 
meats, prepared as above, sprinkle half 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika. 
Beat three-fourths a cup of double 
cream, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and paprika, two tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of 
sherry wine, until firm throughout (a 
third tablespoonful of lemon juice may 
replace the sherry). Reserve a few 
pieces of prunes and nuts for a garnish. 
Mix the seasonings through the rest of 
the prunes and nuts, then fold in about 
two-thirds of the cream mixture. Turn 
the mixture upon a bed of heart leaves 
of lettuce; pipe the rest of the dressing 
above and decorate it with bits of prune 
and nut meats reserved for the purpose. 
This salad may be served individually. 
Great care should be taken to keep the 
pieces of prune in good shape; the 
prunes should be cooked only just 
enough to allow of the removal of the 
stones, not as much as when they are 
to be served as sauce. 



Potato Salad 

For three cups of cubes of cold, 
boiled potatoes, chop fine half a small 
onion, four branches parsley, four olives, 
four small gherkins or one tablespoonful 
piccalilli, half a green or red pepper and 
one tablespoonful capers. Add to 
potatoes with five tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil, a scant teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika and three tablespoon- 
fuls of vinegar. Mix thoroughly. Set 
aside to chill. Add more seasoning if 
needed. Dispose in a mound on a 
serving dish, mask with mayonnaise; 
garnish with cooked beet, chopped fine, 
chopped whites of eggs and sifted yolks. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Beat one egg-yolk, add one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
beat in two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; 
beat in one teaspoonful of olive oil, then 
gradually beat in two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar; beat in one teaspoonful of 
olive oil, then gradually beat in one cup 
of oil, adding it a teaspoonful at a time. 
Use a Dover egg-beater. Finish with 
one tablespoonful of boiling water. 

Tango Salad 

Peel, halve and core ripe juicy pears 
and, if desired, cut the halves in thin 
slices without cutting quite through; 
rub them over with the cut side of a 
lemon, or squeeze upon each piece a 
few drops of lemon juice to keep them 
from discoloring. Set a ball of cream 
cheese, or a few cubes of Roquefort or 
other cheese, in the cavity in the center 
of the halves of pears; set these on 
heart-leaves of lettuce, and pour a 
lightly seasoned dressing over the whole. 

Tango Dressing 

(To Serve Six) 
Prepare half a cup of mayonnaise 
dressing in the usual manner. Beat one- 
fourth a cup of olive oil, one teaspoonful 
of vinegar, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
each, of salt and mustard, half a tea- 



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Delicious Cherry Roly Poly 



EVERY enthusiastic housewife seeks new seasonable surprises in cookery. 
Serve a Crisco made cherry roly poly and you will have a dainty dessert 
that is delicious and different. The dough is light and tender; the sauce fruity 
and toothsome, and both afford convincing proof of the unusual delicacy of foods 
prepared with Crisco. 



(risco 

^, For Frsnng -Fop Shortening 
^^^ For Cake Making 



Crisco is purely vegetable, never varies and has neither flavor nor odor. 
It therefore enables countless thousands of women to give to their ovt^n 
cooking that tastiness for which every good cook strives. 



Cherry Roly Poly 

The Biscuit Dough 

2 cupfuls flour 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder H cupful Crisco 

1 teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 cupful powdered sugar 



The Sauce 

2 egg yolks 



1 scant cupful milk 



(Use level measurements) 



5 tablespoonfuls cherry iuice 
2 egg whites 



Sift flour, salt and baking powder. Add Crisco, cutting 
it in with two knives until mealy. Then add milk gradu- 
ally until a soft dough is formed. 



Cream the Crisco. Add sugar gradually and cream well to- 
gether. Add egg yolks and cherry juice, cook over hot 
vater until well blended and hot 
through; remove from fire and 
fold in stiffly beaten whites. 



Roll biscuit dough about 5^ inch in thickness, sprinkle with sugar and dot with ripe stoned 
cherries or well drained stoned canned cherries. Roll like jelly roll, press and close the ends as 
tight as possible. Tie in floured cloth and cook in boiling water two hours or steam in steamer 
one and a half hours. Remove from cloth to hot platter and serve with sauce. 

Many other recipes make "A Calendar of Dinners" a most valuable book to any housekeeper. 
It contains 615 recipes, a dinner menu for every day in the year and the interesting Story of 
Crisco. Write for this illustrated, cloth-bound, gold-stamped book. Address Dept. A-6, 
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ST^^W^ 



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57 



58 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



spoonful of paprika and one-fourth a 
cup of chili sauce, until well blended, 
then gradually beat into the mayonnaise 
dressing. Sprinkle the salad and dress- 
ing generously with julienne shreds of 
pimientos. After opening the can of 
pimientos, rinse them in cold water and 
dry on a cloth. 

Macedoine of Vegetables in 
Tomato Jelly 

I package granulated 
gelatine 

1 cup cold water 

2 olives, chopped 
1 hard-cooked egg 
I cup peas or bits of 

string beans 
I cup cooked ham, 
chopped 



1 pint tomatoes 

2 slices onion 
1 stalk celery 

1 sHce red or green 
pepper 

2 branches parsley 
f teaspoonful salt 
^ cup sliced celery, 

cooked 



Cook the tomatoes with the onion, 
celery and pepper 15 minutes; press 
through a sieve, add the salt and the 
gelatine softened in the cold water, stir 
until the gelatine is dissolved then let 
cool in cold or ice water. When the 
mixture begins to stiffen, add the 
vegetables, the ham (this may be omitted 
or chicken used), and the sifted yolk 
and chopped white of the egg. When 
the gelatine mixture will hold up the 
macedoine, turn it into molds. When 
firm, serve with lettuce and salad 
dressing. 

Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches 



I pound sliced nut 
meats 



I pound butter 

I pound grated cheese 

I teaspoonful paprika 

Cream the butter, beat in the cheese, 
then the nut meats and paprika, and 
use to spread on bread prepared for 
sandwiches. 

Ring-Shaped Sandwiches 



Slices of bread cut with 

doughnut cutter 
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks 
Thick cream to moisten 



^ can sardines 
1 tablespoonful 

pimiento puree 
Salt and paprika 



Mix all the ingredients together and 
spread on slices of bread cut with a 
doughnut cutter. Heart-leaves of 
lettuce may be used between the pre- 
pared bread. 



Query No. 2698. — "Recipe for Chili Con 
Carne?" 

Chili Con Carne 



2 pods fresh or dried 

chih peppers 
2 pounds round steak 
I cup pork fat or 

drippings 



1 clove garlic 
Hot water as needed 
1 teaspoonful salt 
1 cup dried beans 
4 tablespoonfuls flour 



Soak the beans overnight, drain, wash 
and let simmer in fresh water until 
tender. Discard the seeds in the 
peppers; if dried peppers are used, soak 
them in warm water until soft; scrape 
the pulp into the water and discard the 
skin. Retain the pulp and water. 
Cut the steak in small pieces and 
cook them in the fat melted in the fry- 
ing pan until browned all over; add the 
flour to the fat left in the pan, and stir 
until browned ; add the chili paste and 
water, and stir until boiling. Cut two 
gashes in the garlic and add it with the 
meat to the other articles; cover and 
let simmer until the meat is tender 
(about two hours) adding hot water as 
needed. When the meat is tender, the 
sauce should be of good consistency. 
Add the salt. Meanwhile the beans 
should have become tender and the 
water evaporated to a few spoonfuls. 
Season with salt and pepper; add three 
tablespoonfuls of butter and shake in 
the saucepan to mix thoroughly. Turn 
into the dish of meat or serve in a dish 
apart. 



Query No. 2699. — " 
in April, Veal Cutlets 
Monday, Roast Loin of 
sing for dinner Tuesday, 
dinner on Wednesday, 
balanced be applied to 
ideas of nutritive value 



In the menus for a week 
were given for dinner 

Veal with Bread Dres- 
and Veal Croquettes for 

could the term well- 
such menus having the 
and variety in mind?" 



Regarding Well Balanced Menus 

The term well-balanced when referring 
to food has to do with the proper 
proportion of the five food principles; 
the variety of food presented — - although 
a very important matter — has no 
special bearing on the subject. In the 
menus referred to, veal was given three 
days in succession, but plenty of protein 
food of great variety was provided in 



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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
59 



60 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



both the other meals of the day, and if 
one were following the menus just as 
they were written, a very small piece 
of veal would suffice for the dinner, and 
many of the family would feel no lack 
of food, if no veal were eaten. At best, 
menus written indiscriminately for a 
large number of people can be but 
suggestion, for the perfect menu is 
written for just one individual and 
takes into account age, occupation and 
state of health as well as season of the 
year. Veal is at its best in April and 
May, and as menus are given for but 
seven days in the month, the various 
ways in which veal may be presented can 
npt be noted unless it appears more 
than once. Note that veal does not 
appear - at two successive meals, also 
that the menus for Wednesday and 
Thursday may be interchanged. 

Query No. 2700. — "Recipe for 'Butter 
Cakes' as made in a line of restaurants through- 
out the East and South? The Cakes are baked 
on the top of the stove and are very light." 

Butter Cakes 



I teaspoonful soda 

1 cup thick sour milk 

2 tablespoonfuls 
melted shortening 



. I'cup sifted flour 
I teaspoonful salt 
I teaspoonful baking 

powder 
1 egg, beaten light 

Sift together the dry ingredients ; add 
the egg, sour milk and shortening, and 
mix to the dough. Drop from a spoon 
on a hot well-oiled griddle. When the 
cakes are well-filled with bubbles, they 
should be browned underneath and 
ready to turn to brown the other side. 
If the sour milk is not thick, less will be 
required. 

Butter Cakes 



2 1 cups flour 

1 teaspoonful salt 

4 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder 

2 egg-whites, beaten 
stiff 



2 egg-yolks, beaten 
light 

2 cups sweet milk 

3 tablespoonfuls 
melted shortening 



Sift the dry ingredients together; 
stir in the yolks, shortening and milk, 
and fold in the whites. Bake as above. 

We are unable — except on rare 
occasions — to supply recipes for pro- 



prietary articles. Both the above rec- 
ipes make good cakes similar to the 
ones for which a recipe was desired. 
For a plainer, less expensive article, 
omit the eggs. 



Query No. 2701. — "Menu for a June 
Luncheon of four or five courses, in which spring 
chickens are the dish in the principal course?" 

June Luncheon 
I 

Individual Baskets of Choice Strawberries, 
(unhulled, brushed clean; baskets on small doily 
covered plates). 

Cream of Green Pea Soup, Croutons 

Olives Radishes 

Panned Chickens 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce 

Lettuce, Cress-and-Green Peppers 

French Dressing 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream, Pompadour Style 

Lady Fingers Almond Macaroons 

Coffee 

II 

Pineapple-and- Orange Cocktail 
Salmon Croquettes, Green Peas 

Cheese Tidbits Olives 

Broiled Chickens, Currant Jelly 

French Fried Potatoes 

or 

Creamed Potatoes 

Norma Salad 

Parker House Rolls 

Strawberry Cup 

(May 1916) 

Croquins 

Coffee 

Panned Chicken 

Cut young chickens in halves or 
quarters according to size, wash and 
dry carefully and roll in flour. Have 
ready in a baking pan fat from fat salt 
pork or vegetable oil, salted a little; set 
the pieces of chicken on a rack in the 
pan, let bake about three-quarters of 
an hour, basting six or seven times with 
the fat in the pan. Turn the pieces of 
chicken to brown both sides evenly. 



Query No. 2702. 
Yeast Bread? " 



'Recipe for a Dark- Colored 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer 
ies, on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England -is used. 

It takes over two years of careful preparation 
and ageing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither 
was Holbrook's Sauce 




It is better to use no 
sauce at all than a sauce 
that is not Holbrook's." 




HOLBROOKE 



aRGE%^RSHIRE 

SAUCE 




A Life- \^ 
time Servant 



■pOR lesp than two weeks' wages of the average maid 
•T yoa can get a Fulton Service Wagon, the best 
little "maid" you ever saw; one that is always at 
your command, without arguments or afternoons off, 

THE FULTON p^ 
Service W^agon ^ ^^ 

**It Folds** > 

is a tea and service cart, 
sewing table, sickroon^ 

table, porch wagon and 

kitchen cabinet all in one 
Weight 24 lbs. Strongb 
built. Hot water or hot 
dishes can't mark it. At 
your dealer's or from us 
direct. Write for free dem- 
onstration and descriptive foldei 
what a big help the "Fulton ' v\ 
you. No obligation. Addiess 

The Fulton Mfg. Co. 
Dept. 30 Bay City, Mich. ^ f 1^^* ^teps Bet>., 
; ■' K;tchen and Dining:! 



Folded 




PREMO -y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

A delicate delicious whipped cream for 

every service. No longer any excuse 

lor serving a heavy, indigestible 

buttery ivhipped cream. 



with the 
with thin 



p REMO- \/ ESCO 

^-^ V — ^— used 

"top" of a bottle of milk, 
cream or with half heavy cream and 
whole milk makes the delicious health- 
ful whipped cream. 

For the strawberry shortcake and all dainty liot 
weather desserts and salads the up-to-date house- 
keeper combines attractiveness, he^lthfulness 
and economy in serving cream whipped with 
Cremo Vesco. 

A 25 cent bottle may be used for the average 
size famil;- 50 times. If your grocer does not 
carry it send 25 cents in stamps for a bottle to- 
day. A 16 ounce bottle whips 75 quarts of thin 
cream, $1.00 prepaid, 

Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN. N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
61 



62 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Dark Colored Bread 



1 cake compressed yeast 
I cup lukewarm water 



2 cups milk, scalded 

and cooled 
2 tablespoonfuls 

shortening 
I teaspoonful salt 

Mix the yeast 



1 cup molasses 

2 cups whole wheat 
flour 

2 cups graham flour 
1 cup bran 

White flour to make a 
dough 

through the water ; 
add to the milk in which the shortening 
has been dissolved; add the salt, 
molasses and various kinds of flour, and 
mix to a dough ; knead until smooth and 
elastic; cover and let become light. 
Shape into two loaves. When again 
light, bake one hour. 



Query No. 2703. — "Recipe for Hot Butter 
Scotch Sauce to be eaten on ice cream ?" 

Hot Butter Scotch Sauce 

1 cup sugar ^ cup butter 

I cup glucose or corn ^ cup or more boiling 

syrup water 
^ cup boiling water 

Stir and cook the sugar, corn syrup, 

first I cup of boiling water and the 

butter over the fire until of the desired 

color ; add the second measure of boiling 

water and stir and cook until melted and 

of the proper consistency. The sauce 

should stiffen slightly on the ice cream. 



Query No. 2704. 

Pimientos?" 



"Recipe for Canning 



Canned Pimientos 

Cut around the stem of each pepper 
and remove it and all the seeds; wash 
the peppers, pour on boiling water to 
cover and let boil two minutes; drain, 
rinse in cold water and drain again, then 
use to fill the sterilized jars. Set the jar 
or jars on a cloth on the rack of a steam 
cooker or other appliance; fill jar and 
cooker with lukewarm water; adjust the 
rubber and cover, but do not tighten 
the cover; cover the cooker and let the 
peppers cook ten minutes after the 
boiling actually begins; test the peppers 
with a fork; if tender, fill the jar to 
overflow with boiling water, adjust the 
cover, but do not tighten it completely; 
let boil six minutes, tighten the cover 
and remove from the heat. 



Query No. 2705. — "Give explicit directions 
for making German Coffee Cake with magic 
yeast or yeast foam. We Hve 16 miles from a 
town and cannot get compressed yeast." 

German Coffee Cake 

At noon crumble one cake of magic 
yeast or yeast foam into one-fourth a 
cup of lukewarm water; when softened, 
mix and add to one cup of scalded-and- 
cooled milk, then stir in bread flour to 
make a thick batter; beat thoroughly, 
cover and let stand in a bread bowl 
until very light and full of bubbles; 
add one-fourth a cup of melted shorten- 
ing, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
fourth a cup of sugar, one egg beaten 
light, and flour for a soft dough, about 
three cups and a half. Cut through and 
through the dough with a knife, cover 
and let stand to become light. When 
doubled in bulk turn into pan 11x8 
and when again doubled in bulk spread 
with melted butter and flour and sugar 
mixture; bake half an hour. 



Query No. 2706. — "Give Substitutes for 
Fresh Meat and Vegetables in summer diet 
of child two years old; temperature from 100° to 
115° F. and no ice available." 

Substitutes for Fresh Meat and 
Vegetables — Child's Diet 

When chicken, beef or lamb are 
available, prepare broth and store it in 
small fruit jars in the same manner as 
canned fruit is stored, i.e., seal when 
at the boiling point in sterilized jars. 
Serve with this carefully cooked maca- 
roni or spaghetti, or potatoes baked in a 
very hot oven. Use canned spinach or 
peas in purees; a puree of mild onions 
(Bermuda or similar variety) is allowable 
for a child of 30 months, and might be 
tried with a younger child; if no in- 
digestion occurs, repeat the dish, but 
always in small quantity. The pulp 
of stewed prunes or the juice of berries 
should be given either at breakfast or 
dinner. Grape juice may be given 
in any quantity desired by the child. 
Bananas are wholesome if cooked 
(baked) thoroughly. Fruit juice may 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



^^ 






% 



4 



- .^ 

The delicate orchids which 
yield the vanilla bean are 
sometimes destroyed by 
tropical hurricanes — as 
ivas the 1915 crop — and 
sometimes injured by other 
causes. Only second grade 
beans are produced during 
such years. As none but 
the first grade is used in 
Burnett''s Vanilla, a reserve 
stock is kept to assitre its 
uniform high quality. 



Syrian Parfait 

Scald 1 pint cream and let it 
stand 1/2 hour, on Vi lb. fresh 
ground coffee. Cream yolks of 
6 eggs with V4 lb. sugar. Beat 
well, add coffee mixture and stir 
to creaminess over boiling w ater. 
Strain, add V2 pint cream and 2 
teaspoonfuls Burnett's Vanilla. 
Beat over ice and freeze. 

r" 



What you should 
get in your 
Vanilla 



You should get that rare and 
wonderful flavor which Nature 
puts into just one kind of vanilla 
bean— that grown in the moun- 
tain valleys of Mexico. All the 
efforts of science to cultivate 
vanilla elsewhere have failed to 
produce the equal of the bean 
grown in that favored spot, 
and cured by the slow native 
process. No maker of cheap 
extracts can afford to use these 
beans, even though enough of 
them were to be had. This 
rare crop is small and over one- 
half of its choicest is used in 



-.i^ 




nnm 



For desserts, in which flavor is all important, it is surely 
shortsighted to use anything but the best flavoring. The 
exquisite delicacy and concentrated goodness of Burnett's 
Vanilla have made it the standard among discriminating 
cooks for three generations. 

DESSERT BOOK— FREE 

Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy of "115 
Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful. 

Joseph Burnett Company 

36 India St., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substittites 
63 



64 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



be used with gelatine in making jelly 
for dessert. One tablespoonful of gela- 
tine with one cup and a half of fruit 
juice, one-fourth a cup of sugar and one- 
fourth a cup of water. Use the water 
to soften the gelatine; dissolve over the 
tea kettle, add the sugar and fruit juice. 
Without ice prepare at supper time and 
set aside in as cool a place as possible 
until the next day. Tapioca may be 
cooked in fruit juice, one-fourth a cup 
in a pint of juice; the addition of one or 
two eggs, beaten very light, makes the 
dish more nutritious and adds to the 
protein value, which is essential in a 
diet deficient in meat, fish or vegetables, 



Query No. 2707. — "Recipes for Simple 
Desserts in which condensed milk may be used?" 

Rebecca Pudding 



1 cup condensed milk 
1 cup boiling water 
i cup cornstarch 



J cup cold water 

2 egg whites 

I teaspoonful salt 



1 cup condensed milk 

1 cup boiling water 

2 egg yolks 



Custard Sauce 



2 tablespoonf uls sugar 
I teaspoonful salt 
I teaspoonful vanilla 
extract 



Heat the milk and water in a double 
boiler, stir the cornstarch and cold water 
until smooth, then stir and cook in the 
hot liquid until thickened slightl}^; 
cover and let cook ten minutes, stirring 
. occasionally. Beat the egg-whites and 
salt very light, then fold into the cooked 
mixture. Have ready small molds or 
cups, buttered and dredged with sugar; 
turn in the mixture, and let cook in the 
oven on folds of paper and surrounded 
with boiling water until firm and well 
puffed. Serve hot, with cold custard. 
For the custard, scald the milk and 
water; beat the egg-yolks, add the 
sugar and salt and beat again; pour on 
a little of the hot liquid, mix and stir 
into the rest of the hot liquid, and 
continue to stir and cook until the mix- 
ture thickens a little, then strain into a 
cold dish. Add the vanilla before using. 

Variations of Rebecca Pudding 

Half a cup of chopped almonds, 
grated cocoanut, fine-chopped figs or 



dates or one or two ounces of melted 
chocolate may be added before the egg- 
whites are folded into the pudding 
mixture. The sauce may be used as a 
sauce for boiled rice or it may be poured 
while hot over slices of stale sponge cake. 
When cold decorate with bits of fruit 
jelly. 

Cornstarch Blancmange 



1 cup boiling water 
^ teaspoonful salt 



1 cup condensed milk 
I cup cornstarch 
I cup cold water 

Stir the cornstarch and salt with the 
cold water and cook in the hot milk and 
water (double boiler) stirring constantly 
until the mixture thickens and, oc- 
casionally, thereafter, twenty minutes. 
Turn into cups rinsed in cold water; 
serve cold, unmolded, with custard 
sauce. 

Sea Moss Farine Blancmange 



I tablespoonful (level) 

Sea Moss Farine 
1 tablespoonful sugar 



1 cup condensed milk 
1 cup cold water 
Thin rind | lemon or 
orange | 

Set the milk, water and fruit rind over 
the fire in a double boiler; sift together 
the Sea Moss Farine and sugar, then 
stir into the cold liquid and continue 
to stir while the liquid is beating; when 
the mixture is hot, stir occasionally while 
cooking twenty minutes. Strain into 
molds and let chill and harden. Serve 
unmolded with custard or with canned 
or fresh sugared fruit. 

(Continued on page 72) 



■The Daily Use in the Home of — 
Platts Chlorides . 

TheOdorlessDisiiMfectant. 

Is not a Luxury but 
a Necessity 

It Protects Health and 
Prevents Sickness 

Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Everywhere 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




veryone 



Tulips 

and 

Tit-Bits 

A May-Morning 
Greeting 

Any woman who will can make the 
May breakfast the most charming half- 
hour of the day. 

One flower will aid it, if you can't 
have a bouquet. A single tulip is very 
artistic. 

Then have bubble-grains with it — 
Puffed Wheat or Puffed Rice. They 
seem like breakfast bonbons. 

Will Smile 




Good cheer is the main thing at breakfast. And it 
isn't universal, you know. It is up to you housewives to 
start the day with a smile. 

One can't frown at flowers. And these flaky, crisp 
bubbles are the daintiest dainty that ever met folks at 
breakfast. Have them both on your May-morning tables. 

Then remember that these flavory morsels are the ut- 
most in whole-grain foods. Every food cell is exploded. 
Every atom feeds. It doesn't take many Puffed Grains to 
form a hearty breakfast. 

Foods so fascinating and so scientific ought to have a big place in your home. No other 
wheat or rice foods compare with them. Prof. Anderson's process is the only way that fits every 
granule for food. 




A whole-grain food, to be a complete food, must be made wholly digestible, 
niust be broken. And each grain contains more than 100 million of them. 

In Prof. Anderson's process, 
these cells are steam-exploded. 
Not a cell remains intact. 



Each food cell 



Wheat, rice and corn are the 
only grains we puff. Those 
grains should be served in this 
way. Not for breakfast only, 
but in bowls of milk. They are 
double-value foods. 



Puffed Wheat 
Puffed Rice 

Corn Puffs — Bubbles of Com Hearts — 1 5c 



Except 

in 

Far 

West 



12c 
15c 



THE QUAKER OATS COMPANY 

SOLE MAKERS 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
65 



The Silver Lining 



Love and Flowers 

She was a maiden with glorious eyes, 
And he was a gallant commander. 

They walked through a garden of flowers and 
grass; 

Said he, "What's yourfavorite flower, dear lass?" 
Said she, with a sigh, "Oleander." 

His name was Leander — his heart gave a jump ; 

With rapturous ardor he fanned her. 
Said he, "I'm in very great need of a wife. 
Sweet maid, will you be my own blossom for 

life?" 

Said she, with a blush, "O Leander!" 

Harriet Whitney Symonds. 



A Touch of Humor 

"Always," says the astute news editor 
to the new reporter— "always be on 
the look out for any little touch of 



ai iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii luniiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiii III! m il* 



Pn^C"^ 




Hose 
Supporter 



for Women, Misses and Children, 

including the Baby. 
The OBLONG Rubber Button Clasp 

is a sure protection for the stocking 

Holds Without Holes! 

Ask at your Store or send 15c for Chil- 
= dren's Pin-ons (give age) or 50c for 

Women's and Misses* Sew-ons (four). 
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON 
'illllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIlinTi" 




humor that may brighten up the 
columns." 

That evening the new reporter handed 
in an account of a burglary in a butcher's 
shop, which commenced: "Mr. Cleaver, 
the well-known butcher, has been losing 
flesh rapidly of late." 

Prayer Divided by the Red Sea 

Immediately following the close of the 
Civil War, J. G. Butler, then a young 
man living in Youngstown, Ohio, and 
destined to become notable as a steel 
magnate, left home to go South on a 
visit to his brother, who had been a 
Union soldier and who, after the close 
of hostilities, had settled among the 
mountains, in a remote section of East 
Tennessee. 

Part of the journey, as the Saturday 
Evening Post tells the story, was made 
upon horseback. One night the traveler 
secured accommodations at the only 
dwelling in sight — the log cabin of an 
old negro. 

"When bedtime came," said Mr. 
Butler, "the old darky asked me to join 
in the family prayers. So I knelt down 
with the members of his household upon 
the hard puncheon floor, and he closed 
his eyes and threw his head back and 
opened his mouth and began. 

"He began with Genesis and worked 
gradually downward. When he had 
prayed for twenty minutes without a 
pause, and my knees were hurting me 
like the toothache, I got desperate. 
I nudged the person nearest to me — a 
twelve-year-old boy, who had his head 
on a chair seat and was peacefully 
dozing through the ordeal. 

" *Whut is it. Boss?' whispered the 
pickaninny, waking with a start. 

" 'How long is this prayer goin' to 
last?' I whispered back. 

" 'Has Daddy done tuck de Chillen of 
Israel 'crost de Red Sea yit?' he asked 
me under his breath, " 



66 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



The nQwest thing 
for the kitchen 



<- "^^Er 






(^ 



Trade Mark Reg. 



Bakind U^re 




Baking in Pyrex dishes is more efficient and uniform than the old 
way. It is quicker and in the highest degree sanitary and attrac- 
tive. Food is not burned. Its best flavor is retained. Delay is 
avoided, fuel saved, better results insured. 

Pyrex is literally a nev^ material come into the vv^orld. Trans- 
parent and durable it w^ithstands the heat of the hottest oven. It 
does not chip, craze nor flake, and is the only practical glass for 
oven use. 

Pyrex dishes make handsome serving-dishes, with or without 
silver mountings. 

Pyrex glass dishes are made in a large variety of shapes and sizes ranging 
from Ramekins at 12J^c. to Casseroles at $2.00. On sale by leading 
china and department stores and specialty shops everywhere — Lewis & 
Conger, Gimbel Bros., N.Y.; Marshall Field & Co., Chicago; Jordan Marsh 
Co., Graham & Streeter, Boston; Wright, Tyndale & Van Roden, Straw- 
bridge & Clothier, Philadelphia, etc. 

CORNING GLASS WORKS Established ises CORNING, N.Y., u.s.a. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
67 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




IT'wS poor economy to save a fraction of a 
cent on a jar ring and have a jar of deli- 
cious fruit ferment and be wasted. Cheap 
rings harden, shrink, crack and let in air. 
This makes the fruit "work" and spoil. Good 
Luck rings are thick, strong and elastic, be- 
cause there is plenty of "live" rubber in them. 
This makes a tough, resilient cushion between 
the cap and the jar, so that dust and germs 
cannot enter. 

If your dealer cannot supply you 
send lO cents for one dozen rin^s 

Our booklet. Good Luck in Preserving," tells 
why preserves spoil and how to prevent it. It 
also contains 33 "distinctly different" preserv- 
ing recipes, all practical and delicious, and an 
assortment of gummed and printed jar labels. 
Send 2-cent stamp for it to day 

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 

Makers of GOOD LUCK GARDEN HOSE 

Dept. No. 3 Cambridge, Mass. 



" 'Not yet,' I said. 

'* 'Well, den, w'en he git to de Red 
Sea he's jest half done.' " 

Her Daily Reminder 

In "Tom Daly's Column" of the 
Philadelphia Ledger we read : 

"I wrote this," says H. H. H., "had 
it typewritten, framed and hung it in 
various places about the house. Now, 
whenever I do anything wrong I turn 
to the nearest one, and somehow when 
the storm breaks it's always a mild, 
gentle little storm, that passes away 
almost before it is begun : 

I am, indeed, a very beautiful woman. 

My face shows, too, that I am 
intellectual, learned and refined. 

My figure is perfect; it is of beautiful 
curves, yet it is motherly, and neither 
am I too slender. My carriage is the 
acme of grace and dignity. 

My voice is soft and sweet, yet power- 
ful when I will. It thrills the multitude, 
yet soothes my child to sleep. 

My mind is such that it communes 
with savants, yet it responds to the 
whisperings of my child. 

My disposition is sweet and loving; 
my manner charming. 

I am tactful, I am witty, I am bril- 
liant. 

I am a perfect wife. 

I am a perfect mother. 

I am a perfect woman. 

My only weakness, is my husband, the 
poor shrimp ! 

Henrietta Hermione Hopkins.''' 

Sir Henry Hawkins was once pre- 
siding over a long, tedious, and uninter- 
esting trial, and was listening apparently 
with great attention to a very long- 
winded speech from a learned counsel. 
After a while he made a pencil memo- 
randum, folded it, and sent it by the 
usher to the queen's counsel in question, 
who, unfolding the paper, found these 
words: "Patience competition. Gold 
medal, Sir Henry Hawkins. Honorable 
mention, Job." — Argument. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
68 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



r 




A perfect food — a sustaining food — 
a most nutritious food made from 
flour. Five cents. 



No wonder these biscuit 
are fresh and good! The 
National Biscuit Company 
insists that every biscuit be 
the best possible. Flour, 
butter, eggs, fruit and other 
materials are specially se- 
lected. Preparation and 
baking are done with utmost 
skill amid absolute cleanli- 
ness. 



,^^^; 



Biscuit 

At 

Their Best 




Snappy and spicy. The grocer 
man sells them to grown-ups 
and growing- ups. Five cents. 



The National Biscuit Com- 
pany bakes many kinds of bis- 
cuit for you — sweetened and 
unsweetened. You can get 
them from the nearby grocery 
store, which is constantly sup- 
plied by our Coast-to-Coast 
distribution. 




Five 
and ten cents. 



NATIONAL 

BISCUIT 
COMPANY 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
69 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




FOR 
BISCUIT CAKE p^"* PASTRY 

This Pastry Floar is very economical for qnick biscuit, 
cake, pie-crast, short-cake, etc. Quality always nniform 

December 2. 1915., 

My daughter, being in the dramatic profession, is often obliged 
to travel, necessitating light housekeeping. At present, we are 
located in Boston. 

Recently^ when playing in Portland, Me., I bought at a local 
store, some "White Puff" Flour. It was delicious, and 1 found it a 
great saving, because 1 only had to use half the shortening that 1 had 
used with other flours. 

Now, really 1 want some more of this " White Puff" Flour at 
soon as possible, and will appreciate it very much if you notify me 
where I can buy it in Brookline. 

I^ don't see how any good cook can get along without "White 
Puff". We certainly can't. 

Yours truly, 
1 1 Devotion St., MRS. F. H. CUSHMAN. 

Brookline, Mass. 

GET IT OF YOUR GROCER. IF HE DOES NOT 
KEEP IT, WE WILL SUPPLY YOU DIRECT 

WILLIAM S. HILLS CO., Boston 






An Ounce or 
Pound? 



a 



The world has long since concluded 
that "an ounce of prevention is worth 
a pound of cure." Those who ren- 
der a real service to humanity — are 
those who conserve health. 
Pure, wholesome food is a well-known pre- 
ventive of ill-health; and for twenty-five 
years Calumet Baking Powder has excelled 
as a preparer of good food. 
People who have investigated the action, 
properties and residue of various leavening 
agents, recommend "CALUMET." The 
ingredients used have been approved by the 
Remsen Board, appointed by the United 
States Government and composed of men 
whose ability is acknowledged. 

A copy of the U. S. BuUehn. No. 103. con- 
taining the findings of the Remsen Board, will 
be sent upon request. 

CALUMET BAKING POWDER CO.. Chicago, lU. 



CALUMET 

BAKING POWDER 



Motor Economy 

Economy was the text of Mr. Jones' 
discourse one evening after he had been 
settling some household bills, while 
Mrs. Jones listened with true wifely 
interest. The Sunday Fiction Magazine 
proceeds : 

"I don't want to make you unhappy, 
darling," finished the husband, "but 
really we must be a bit more careful in 
future. For instance, look at the bill for 
petrol. That motorcar is costing us 
rather too much for the time being." 

"Yes, Henry, dear," agreed Mrs. 
Jones. "I'm afraid it is." 

Then her sweet young face brightened 
as she went on : 

"But just think what it saves us in 
carfares and boot leather!" 

Mark Twain called on Grant by 
permission; but when he looked into the 
square, smileless face of the soldier, he 
found himself for the first time in his 
life without anything particular to say. 
Grant nodded slightly and waited. His 
caller wished something would happen. 
"General," he said, "I seem to be slightly 
embarrassed. Are you?" Grant's sever- 
ity broke up in laughter. There were 
no further difficulties. 

A bashful young Scot had no courage 
to speak for himself. At last, one 
Sabbath night he said, "Jane, do you ken 
I were here Monday night?" "Aye." 
"And I were here Wednesday and 
Thursday?" "Aye." "And once more 
on Friday and again last night?" "So 
you were." "And here I am tonight." 
"Yes." Finally, in desperation, 
"Woman, do you no smell a rat?" 
— Rural New Yorker. 

A colored woman beat Mrs. Twickem- 
bury in this: She was telling her quali- 
fications as a lady's maid, and said she 
had kept house. "Then I suppose you 
can cook, too?" "Indeed I can, yes'm; 
and if you'll try my cooking, you'll find 
it palatial." 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
70 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



fe Answer to the 
Milk Question 



MILK is one of the most important 
foods you buy. There is every rea- 
son why you should get milk that is sure 
to be safe. 

You cannot afford to take risfes,— and there 
is no reason why you should. 



CARNATION MILK solves the whole 
problem for you. It puts an end to 
your doubts. 

It protects you from all the dangers which 
lurk in milk that is not handled properly. 

Remem.ber that Carnation Milk is not "doc- 
tored" in any way. It is just the pure milk 
as Nature provides, with nothing put in to 
sweeten or to preserve it. 

♦ ♦ ♦ 

ALL MILK, as you know, contains a 
large percentage of water. Part of 
the water is evaporated from the clean, 
sweet, pure fresh milk which is thus re- 
duced to the consistency of cream. Noth- 
ing else is taken out— nothing whatever is 
added. 

After the rich, clean Carnation Milk is put 
into the cans and sealed airtight it is steril- 
ized, and you get it in that condition- 
clean, sweet, pure and absolutely safe. 

Isn't it worth while to be sure about the 
milk you buy? 

Isn't it important to you to know that the 
milk you serve on your table, the milk you 
give your children to drink, is free from 
anything that may be dangerous or harmful? 



PERHAPS you have supposed Carna- 
tion Milk was to be used only for a 
few special purposes. If so, you have been 
mistaken. 

Carnation Milk — properly diluted — is to be 
used just as you use any other milk — for 
the table, for cooking and for baking. 

Put it in your coffee and enjoy the splendid 
flavor it imparts; pour it diluted or undi- 
luted, over fruits, berries and cereals, make 
ice cream and candy with it. 

♦ ♦ ♦ 

CARNATION MILK whips— that fact 
is a forceful evidence of its high quality. 

Get rid of the milk problem forever by us- 
ing Carnation Milk. It is always handy 
when you want it, because you can keep a 
supply in the house and be sure that it 
isn't going to spoil. 

You will find that it supplies every milk 
need of your home. Add pure water to it 
and you "bring it back" to the original milk 
—with the betterment of purity and safety. 

Just, try it. Find out for yourself how good 
Carnation Milk is, and how simply it solves 
the milk and cream problem. 

♦ ♦ ♦ 

ASK your grocer today to send you a 
. supply of Carnation Milk. He can 
furnish it by the can or by the case — daily 
or weekly — as you wish. 

Write us for our handsomely illustrated book of 
special recipes for using Carnation Milk in 
everyday dishes, fancy desserts, etc. 

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS 

COMPANY 

658 STUART BUILDING, SEATTLE, U. S. A, 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
71 



AMERICAN COOKERY 






Cherries 

Cherry Sponge — a most 
pleasing Knox Gelatine 
dish. Fresh or canned 
cherries. 

Raspberries 

Raspberry Mousse — a 
delightful chilled des- 
sert for warm days and 
other days, too. 

Pineapple 

Pineapple Sponge — 
Pineapple Snow Balls 
—Pineapple Mousse- 
are suggestions, fresh 
or canned fruit. 



Strawberries 

Strawberry Bavarian 
Cream, Strawberry Ice, 
Strawberry Coupe' — 
are a few Knox Gela- 
tine recipes for Straw- 
berries. 

Blackberries 

Lemon Jelly with Ber- 
ries — easy to prepare — 
yet dainty and different. 

Bananas 

A delightful recipe is 
Banana Sponge, gar- 
nished with banana 
slices. 



Recipes for above are found in our new book. 



KNOX STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM 

1-2 envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine. 

1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 

1-4 cup cold water. 1-2 cup sugar. 

1 cup strawberry juice and pulp. 

1 1-2 cups heavy cream, beaten until stiff. 
Soak Gelatine in cold water five minutes, and dissolve 
by standing: cup containing mixture in hot water. Strain 
into strawberry juice mixed with lemon juice. Add 
sugar, and when sugar is dissolved, set bowl containing 
mixture in pan of ice water and stir until mixture begins 
to thicken; then fold in cream. Turn into wet mold lined 
with strawberries cut in halves, and chill. Garnish 
with fruit, selected strawberries, and leaves. A deli- 
Clous cream may also be made with canned strawberries. 

YOU can serve the season's 
fruits and berries in many 
different and delightful ways 
if you use 

^^^ SPARKLING ^^^ ■ 

{Qranulated) 

The suggestions above give you 
an idea of the possibilities. Canned 
fruits, too, are used with splendid 
results. New Recipe Book 
containing many recipes for Desserts, Pud- 
dings, Jellies, Salads, Candies, etc., will 
be sent 

FREE for your grocer's name. Enclose 
2c stamp for pint sample, if desired. 

CHAS. B. KNOX CO., Inc. 

407 Knox Ave Johnstown. N. Y. 



Yellow Package 







Queries and Answers 

(Continued from page 62) 

Query No. 2708. —"An Icing for Angel Food 
Cake?" 

Icing for Angel Food Cake 

Melt one-fourth a cup of granulated 
sugar in half a cup of boiling water, let 
boil three minutes, then stir in sifted 
confectioners' sugar to make a frosting 
that will remain in place on the cake. 



Query No. 2709. — "Recipe for Bean Salad." 

Lima Bean Salad 

Over a pint of cold, cooked Lima beans 
pour three or four tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of cider 
vinegar, one teaspoonful of grated onion 
pulp, half a teaspoonful of salt and half 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Toss and mix; 
dispose on a serving dish, and surround 
with a "pin-money mango" chopped 
fine. Serve at once or let stand in a 
cool place for some time before serving. 

Lima-and-Black Bean Salad 

Let one cup each of Lima and black 
beans soak over night, separately, in 
cold water; drain, wash in cold water, 
drain and set to cook in cold water. 
After boiling begins, replenish with 
boiling water as needed and let cook 
until tender. Season with salt when 
about three-fourths cooked. When cold, 
season, separately, with oil, vinegar, 
onion juice, paprika, chopped parsley 
and about one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
mustard or curry powder. Let stand 
until well seasoned. Serve in a bowl 
lined with lettuce-hearts. Dispose the 
dark beans in the center and the light 
ones around the edge. 

String-Bean Salad 

Select small, green string beans; leave 
whole or cut in pieces according to size; 
dry on a cloth; for a pint mix half a 
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of paprika, five tablespoonfuls 
of oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
and half a teaspoonful of onion juice; 
add to the beans and mix thoroughly. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
72 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




jtieWorlds Besf 
Jce Cream^eezer 



Sav^s TTme-CJork-CJorrf^ 

Ice Cream versus Thudding and ^ie 



BY ACTUAL TEST 

Two apple pies made ready to put into the oven in 

(to say nothing of the baking) . Two quarts of delicious ice 

and packed ready to serve in 

twenty-one minutes and no 

hot fire to fuss over. That's 

why we say : ''Icecream made 

the right way with a White 

Mountain Freezer is easier to 

make than a pudding or pie/' 

We have proved it: — so can 

you. If you don't know the 

right way ask your dealer 

for our folder or write to us 

direct. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN FREEZER CO. 

NASHUA, NEW HAMPSHIRE 



thirty-five minutes 
cream mixed, frozen 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
73 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




|PURE, WHOLESOME and DEPENDAOLEifV 







Vg HO-MAYDE prevents failures on Bake Day; 
_ ^ it makes the spong-e rise sooner, and so shortens : 
1 1^ the time of bread making. 

The same quantity of flour will give a larger, 
better and sweeter loaf, which will not dry out so 
quickly. 

Ask your grocer, today, for a IS cent package, 
sufficient for 100 loaves of bread. If he does not 
have it, send us his name and we will send you a 
generous sample FREE. Address Dept. C 

HO-MAYDE PRODUCTS CO. 

TORONTO. CAN. DETROIT. MiCH. 



i2 




ON Even 



4 ^^.a^^i^*^^^-^ 

(jjystal flower ^olfSer 



for any length cut flowers used in lily bowl or dish containing water 

Uelivered East of Delivered West of Missouri River 

Missouri Kiver JFlorida, Maine and Canada 

^ S 0.60— No. fl — in dia. 7 holes— $ 0.70 

0.90 — No. 10—5" dia. 19 holes— 1.00 

1.25— No. 11— fin dia. 19 holes— l.fiO 

Ai H. HEISEY & CO. Dept. 56 Newark, Ohio 

WRITE FOR ILLUSTRATED BOOKLET 



iHEIBEY'Bi 




lELASSWAREl 



^^^^.•■cV ^X^X^^ 



FOR THE TABLE 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE aiL 
^LAD DRESSING 

"**^ A MAYONNAISE OF 
SURPASSING DELICIDUSNESS 



lymnirnnir' 



Rub over a salad bowl with a clove of 
garlic cut in half; in the bowl dispose 
the beans with an edge or border of 
carefully washed-and-dried heart-leaves 
of lettuce. 



Query No. 2710. — "Recipe for small Sweet 
Pickles, put up a can at a time?" 

One Can Sweet Pickled Cucumbers 

Select small cucumbers; scrub and 
wash, sprinkle with salt and cover with 
cold water. Use half a cup of salt to 
two quarts of water. The next morning, 
drain, rinse in cold water, drain again 
and pack in a fruit jar; pour in vinegar 
to cover the cucumbers; prepare more 
cucumbers, day by day. When the jar 
is filled, drain off the vinegar, and add 
to the cucumbers green or red peppers, 
whole cloves, white mustard seed, ginger 
root, a few bits of mace or a piece of 
bay leaf. Scald three cups of vinegar 
and one-fourth a cup or more of sugar; 
pour over the cucumbers filling the jar 
to overflow; adjust the rubber and cover 
and set aside. 



Query No. 2711. — "Recipe for Tomato Cat- 
sup that will not mold?" 

Old-time Tomato Catsup 

Slice a peck of ripe tomatoes and two 
dozen onions. Let them boil one hour. 
Then press through a sieve. Add one 
quart of vinegar, one pint of port wine, 
one tablespoonful of ground cloves, 
one tablespoonful of allspice, half an 
ounce of mace, four nutmegs, grated, 
one tablespoonful and a half of pepper, 
one scant teaspoonful of cayenne, and 
half a cup of salt. Scald over the fire and 
store in fruit jars or in bottles, covering 
the corks with sealing wax. 

The spices and wine aid in keeping the 
catsup, still it is best to store the catsup 
in small cans or bottles that no more may 
be exposed to the air than will be used 
in a short time. We see no reason why 
spice extracts should be better than the 
ground spices. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
74 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




^^ypo*s corripSirvp 
unlQss number three is 





Always welcomed by any company 
for its brightness and charm. Delicious 
and refreshing. 

Demand the genuine by full name — nicknames encourage substitution. 

The Coca-Cola Co. Atlanta. Ga. 

Send for Free Booklet — "The Romance of Coca-Cola". 




^3^ -^f- 



^^m 



J^^l 



. ^ 








..v \isiTzrsvN Vs 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
75 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




New low Prices 
On Refrigerators 

White Enameled — Steel Lined 

Wonderful value at a low price, due to Montgomery Ward's 
enormous purchasing capacity. 

Fine hardwood case — round corners —golden oak finish. 
Chamber lined with white enameled steel. Perfect insulation 
insuring ice saving. Easy to clean, as shelves, drain pipe and 
trap all are removable. Would cost $12 if bought in ordinary 
way. Send for regular Refrigerator circular and save vour 
money. 

Address House Most Convenient 






rC 



MY DEAR MARY: 

At last I have time to write you and time for 
lots of other things. I'll tell you why ! I just 
bought a kitchen catmet — a seamless steel one, 
white enameled, called the "McClernan." It's just 
too beautiful for words. Jack and I sent for cata- 
lo|,s of all kinds and inspected every make in the 
stores and finally decided on this one as the most 
complete, most sanitary and the best looking. It's a 
kitchen in a nutshell — a place for everything; and 
so easily kept clean. I can do twice the work m 
half the time. Now I really have leisure. I don't 
know how I ever ^ot alon^ without it. Be sure to 
see it at your dealers. 

Yours happily. 

Write for Folder LOUISE 

McCleman Metal Products Co. 
Dept. G , 122 S. 'Michi&an Ave. 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



SANITAPV 

lUERNAl 



June 

Roses bloom along the highway, 

Ferns are green in every by-way, 

Birds on wood-land boughs are singing, 
Winds their balm of health are bringing, 

Stars are bright with sudden glory. 

Dingles tell their mirthful story, 
And the Summer at her fairest 
Gives us June- time days the rarest. 

Every wave is music weighted, 

Every vista beauty freighted, 

Forest paths are aisles entrancing 
Filled with fairy forms advancing. 

And the doubter learns believing, 

And the sad forgets his grieving. 
When the Summer at her fairest 
Gives us June- time days the rarest. 

L. M. Thornton. 



Two ladies — each with her child — 
visited the Chicago Art Museum. As 
they passed the "Winged Victory" the 
little boy exclaimed, "Huh! She ain't 
got no head." "Sh!" the horrified little 
girl replied. "That's Art—^he don't 
need none!" — Harper' s Magazine . 



Recommends Ho-Mayde 

Leaf River, 111., Jan. 7, 1916 
Dear Sirs: — 

I received a package of your Ho- 
Mayde Bread Improver and think it's 
O. K. I would like to act as agent 
in this vicinity for you. Other women 
here have used their samples and 
think Ho-Mayde is fine. 
Box 167. Mrs. E. H. 



• Handy for a Fireless Cooker 

Did you know that an ICY HOT Jar 
can be used for a fireless cooker ? It is so. 
Vegetables, beans, stews and other foods 
that can conveniently enter the neck 
of the bottle or jar can be heated in 
the cooking water or sauce till steaming 
hot and then placed in the ICY HOT, 
which will do the rest, if you do not 
open it too soon. As the heat cannot 
escape, the food goes on cooking and, 
if the bottle is not opened for a number 
of hours, this fireless cooker will be 
found to have done its work perfectly. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
76 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Food Experts ''O.K," Sea Moss Farine 



Mrs. Janet M. Hill, Editor American Cookery, Boston :— 

There are many delicate desserts possible with Sea Moss 
Farine. At my Summer School we prepared several 
dishes, Blanc Mange especially, which were received 
enthusiastically. 

Mrs. Frances S. Bolton, Pres. Mothers Club, New Haven, 
Conn -—For ten years or more I have used Sea Moss 
Farine. All my familv like it and we have it frequently. 
I believe it is pure and nutritious, especially for grow- 
ing children. 



Jennie Goessling Hammitt, Home Economic SpeciaHst, 
Wilmington, Del. :.-Am much pleased with your .Sea 
Moss Farine. It makes delicious dessert and I shall 
use in my cookery class work at the Settlement. 

Dr. C. H. Goudiss, Lecturer, Food Expert and Editor 
Forecast 'Magazine, replies to inquirers :-. Sea Moss 
Farine is a vegetable preparation, high m food value, 
containing starches, proteins and mineral salts to about 
75 per cent, of its bulk. A clean, wholesome product, 
made from unquestionable raw materials and prepared 
in a sanitary plant. Contains nothing harmful and is 
not artificially preserved or colored. 



Sea Moss Farine ''"'"'''"* 



and Cold Beverages, 



Economical, 

It is stric5lly a Vegetable Pure Food Product of Nature, made of genuine Sea Moss, 
evaporated and concentrated and toned down with a cereal blending. Sirnple 
directions with each package for niaking delicious Blanc Mange, Ice Cream, Hot 
Puddings, and other desserts. Invaluable for Invalids, 
Children, Aged and others of feeble digestion. 

A 25c. package yields 16 quarts Desserts. 
Sold by best Grocers or mailed by us. Postpaid. 

Send for Free Sample and Mme. Lemcke's book, 
" 75 Tempting Dishes. '* 




LYON MANUFACTURING CO., Proprietors, 
38 South Fifth Street, - - BROOKLYN, 



N.Y. 




'OU can make your porch the fav- 
orite gathering place for all the 
family — a shaded, secluded refuge 
from the summer sun, an ideal sleeping 
room on summer nights, by equipping it with 




PDRCH SHADES 



Made of Aerolux Splint-Fabric, they shut out sun, yet let in 
light and air. Aerolux No- Whip Attachment, an exclusive 
feature, prevents whipping in the wind. Furnished in differ- 
ent grades and colors at moderate prices. An architectural 
adornment to any home. 

Aerolux Splint-Fabric Awnings do not absorb and retain 
heat, but keep it out. Write for illustrated catalog. 

THE AEROSHADE CO., 523 Oakland Ave., Waukesha, Wit. 



The "Geraldine^* 
Maternity Corset $2.22 

style with comfort. No longer is it necessary to 
pay a high price for a SCIENTIFICALLY DESIGNED and 
THOROUGHLY WELL=MADE corset. The "GERALDINE" pre- 
serves the graceful outlines of the figure durlngmater- 
nlty, giving ease and comfort to the mother and safe 
guarding her well-being and that of the child. EASE 
OF ACTION AND NORMAL APPEARANCE SECURED. 

Your money back if you are not 
absolutely satisfied 

If you will return the corset. Send your order at 
once and let us prove that to haA^e a perfectly designed 
and supremely comfortable Maternity Corset Is no 
longer an expensive matter. AH regular sizes. Send 
waist measure. 



"Geraldine" Reducing Corset 



$3. 



00 



Another of our specialties that is splendid value, 
for what you pay. We send them upon receipt of price, 
and if you are not satisfied we will refund your money, 
if you will return the corset. 

All orders sent prepaid in the United States and 
Canada. 

Send Mail Orders to 

GERALDINE CORSET COMPANY 

47 Winter Street, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods 



-"Dojiot accept substitutes 
77 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



War on Prices 




WAR cut off the supply of alum, 
inumfrom Europe — prices in America 
skyrocketed. While preparing to 
meet these conditions, by advancing my prices, 
I made a fortunate buy of aluminum at less 
than present market value which enables me 
to offer 



10,000 ^^i^ 

Fireless CooKers 

Priced Wa>^ Down 

It vnW be a year at least before I can again offer the Rapid at my 
present special low prices. I am giving you this supreme oppor- 
tunity to get a Rapid Fireless Cooker complete, equipped with pure 
Aluminum Cooking Utensils, at less than before-the-war prices. 
Write today for big special offer. 

30 Days* Trial in "Voxar Home on My 
Personal Money-BacK 

Gxiaranty 
I want you to use the Rapid Fireless 
Cooker this way for 30 days. Then 
I want you to take a vote of the en- 
lire family and yourself. If all of you 
don't say that you never had better 
meals, more wholesomely cooked, I 
want you to return the Rapid and 
1 11 return your money at once. 
Send for Big FREE Book 
and special low price offer — book 
of 1 50 Recipes by famous chefs 
FREE. Send postal today. 
Wm. Campbell, Pres. 
The Wm. Campbell Co. 
Dept. 173, Detroit, Mich. 




Aluminum Lined Throughout 
Full Equipment "Wear-Ever" 
Aluminum Cooking Utensils 



—30 Days free— 

You want the Best Hot-weather 

REFRIGERATOR at the lowest price that 

money can buy. Get a "WHITE 

FROST at FIRST COST." 

Direct from Factory to Home 

30 Days' Free Trial Freight Prepaid 

Easy Payments to Suit Purchaser 

Awarded the GOLD MEDAL at World's Fair 

San Francisco Exposition, 1915 

Let uBtell you about the best. Send uostal today 

for handsome FREE CATALOG 



H. L. Smith, PrsBident 
White Frost Refrigerator 
Company 

643 N. Mechanic St. 
Jackson, Mich. 



THE GREAT 

WhiteFro!?^ 
Refrigej 



Sanirdrfd$CQf0S 



How to Serve an Invalid's Food 

Sterilize the utensils and dishes em- 
ployed thoroughly with faith, that the 
germs of fear may be destroyed. Sur- 
round the table, or tray, on which the 
food is served, with conversation which 
is filled with the flowers of cheerfulness 
and adorned with pictures of health 
and beauty. Season the food with 
helpful sympathy and patience, but 
never with pity, which is very weakening 
in its effect. 

Add to every dish some stimulant 
which arouses wholesome interest in 
the life of the day. 



Cinnamon Cake 



2 cups sifted flour 
^ cup light brown 

sugar 
2 tablespoonfuls 

butter 



1 cake compressed yeast 
I cup milk, scalded and 

cooled 
1 tablespoonful sugar 

\ teaspoonful salt 

Dissolve yeast and one tablespoonful 
sugar in the luke-warm milk. Add 
three-fourths cup flour to make sponge. 
Beat well, cover and let rise forty-five 
minutes in a moderately warm place. 

Add butter and sugar creamed, egg 
well-beaten, about one and one-fourth 
cups flour, or sufficient to make a soft 
dough, and the salt. Knead lightly, 
place in greased bowl. Cover and let 
rise in a warm place about two hours, 
or until double in bulk. 

Roll one-half inch thick and place in 
well-greased pan and let rise until light — 
about an hour and a half. Cut across 
top with sharp knife, brush with egg, 
sprinkle liberally with sugar and cinna- 
mon. Bake twenty minutes in a 
moderately hot oven. 



QEND us two (2) new yearly 
^ subscriptions at $1.00 each 
and we will renew your own sub- 
scription one year. 

AMERICAN COOKERY 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
78 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



i-HAY'S- 
Pure 
Fruit 
Juices 




COMBINED IN 



Hay s Five Fruit Syrup 

make a most wholesome drink at all 
seasons for all people — old or young. 
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready. 

Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00 



Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write 

to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 5c 

for mailing liberal sample. 




SUMMER TIME IS SANDWICH TIME 

STICHNEY & POOR'S 

prepare:d mustard 

5^?^^^."?-4hs '^t ^ofd Jn PURITY, FLAVOR, KEEPING 
QUALITIES. AND CONVENIENCE OF PACKAGE 
The knowing ones have long since preferred its deliciousness to all 
others. Stickney & Poor's Mustards, Spices, Seasonings and Fla- 
vorings are Standard and guaranteed by a firm that for over one 
hundred years has I merited public confidence by manufacturing 
superior products. For Goodness sake insist on Stickney & Poor's 
when you order from your grocer. 
Your Co-operating Servant, MUSTARDPOT." 



^ STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY 

Hf * 1815--Century Old— Century Honored- -1916 
■ BOSTON, MASS. 



Three Summer 
Recipes 

Easy-Made with 
Famous Sunkist Lemons 



SNOW JELLY Half a box of gelatine dis- 
solved in a quart of warm 
water and beaten to a foam with a half pound 
of sugar, whites of 3 eggs and the juice of 4 
Sunkist Lemons, makes Snow Jelly. Add a 
custard made of the yolks of the eggs. 

SUNKIST SHERBET To one quart of 

nch milk and two 
cups of sugar, add the juice of three Sunkist 
Lemons and one Sunkist Orange. Place in 
freezer and turn steadily until mixture is stiff, 
then cover closely and let it ripen for about 
two hours. A slice of orange preserve may be 
served with each portion, or a few maraschino 
cherries with their syrup. 

CAMINO FRUIT CUP M^^e a rich 

lemonade with 
five Sunkist Lemons, one cup of sugar, and 
three cups of water, adding the juice of two 
Sunkist Oranges and half a cup of pineapple 
juice. Chill thoroughly and pour into high, 
narrow tumblers which have been frosted by 
dipping the edges quickly into lemon juice 
and then in coarse sugar. Place a small slice 
of canned pineapple on top and a sprig of 
mint and two straws in the center where 
hollowed out. Add a large cherry or straw- 
berry^ and serve. 



umkist 




California's Selected Practically Seed-less 

Lemons 

are juicy, tart, full-flavored, and are sent to 
your dealer in sanitary tissue wrappers 
after having been picked by gloved hands, 
and thoroughly scrubbed with brushes. 

There are no finer and no cleaner lemons. 
Insist on Sunkist, since they cost no more 
than common kinds. Sunkist are uniformly 
better lemons. 

California Fruit Growers Exchange 

Co-operative— Non-Proflt 

Eastern Headquarters : Dept. 
B-51, 139 N. Clark St., Chicago 



11 



Buy advertised Goods_ — Do_not accept substitutes 



79 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



^mmw Hh 



Minute Dainties-madewitii 

Minute Tapioca6'Minute Gelatine 




Danish Pudding 

Cook M cup Minute Tapioca in 3 cupfuls hot 
water fifteen minutes. Add % cup sugar, 1 
saltspoon salt and 1 small tumbler grape 
jelly. Stir till dissolved. Serve ice-cold with 
sugar and whipped cream. Pint ripe straw- 
berries may be used in place of jelly. 






Maple Walnut Tapioca 

Heat 1 pint milk and stir into it carefully 2 
heaping tablespoons Minute Tapioca. Cook 
fifteen minutes, then add the well-beaten 
yolk of 2 eggs and a pinch of salt, but NO 
sugar. Stir for 3 minutes, then let cool. 
Beat Vi cup of maple syrup into the cool 
tapioca and add English walnut meats, 
chopped fine. Serve with whipped cream 
and place half nuts on the top. 




American Cream 

Heat 1 pint milk boiling hot, stir in slowly 1 
envelope Minute Gelatine which has been 
mixed with two tablespoons sugar. Add the 
yolks of two eggs, beaten with a little salt 
and cook only a moment, stirring constantly. 
Remove from fire, stir in the whites of the 
eggs, beaten with 2 tablespoons sugar, and 
flavor to taste. Shown here molded in sher- 
bet glass and served with whipped cream into 
which dry cocoa has been stirred. (Teaspoon 
of dry cocoa to one cup of cream, whipped). 




Tapioca Pie 

Bake a short pie crust. Cook 1 pint milk 
and 4 tablespoon Minute Tapioca 15 minutes. 
Add % cup sugar, beaten yolks of 2 eggs 
and ^ cup of cherry preserves. Stir until 
quite thick, flavor with lemon, pour into pie 
crusts Cover with meringue and browTi. 



Jellied Chicken 

Boil 1 chicken until it falls from the bones. Salt 
and pepper and strain off the broth. Cook down 
the broth to a scant quart, then add 2 envelopes 
Minute Gelatine dissolved in 2 tablespoons boiling 
water and add the chicken chopped. Put in a mold 
and when hard, turn on a platter. Slice with a 
sharp knife and garnish with parsley and hard 
boiled eggs. Shown here molded in individual 
molds or cups, a slice of hard boiled egg jellied in 
the side of each mold. Garnish with lettuce leaves 
or parsley. 




124 

Dainty Desserts 

in the FREE 
Minute Cook 
Book 





Requires 
No Soaking 

A great variety of old and 
new tapioca desserts can be 
made with it in fifteen minutes. No 
long soaking, nor underdone desserts. 

Minute Tapioca is an energy food for 
everybody, with especial benefits for romp- 
ing children and people who exercise. 
Delicious, wholesome and pure. 
Price, I5c for full size 10 oz. package. 

Medal of Honor, Highest Award at Panama -Pacific Exposition 
Awarded Minute Tapioca and Minate Gelatine 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do_not accept substitutes 
80 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Mrs.Derby^i 



Mrs. Delia M. Derby 
-in charge of Recipe, 
[enu and House- 
fhold Help Service of Minute Tapioca Companyo 




Neapolitan Jelly 

Dissolve 2 envelopes Minute Gelatine and 1 
cup sugar in 2 cups of boiling water. Divide 
in three parts. Color one part pink and flavor 
with rose. Leave one part white and flavor 
with lemon. The third part color with dis- 
solved cocoa. Beat each part as it begins to 
jell and mold separate flavors in after-dinner 
coffee cups or small molds. Serve as shown 
with whipped cream and whole nuts. 



New Minute Cook 
Book FREE With 
Generous Sample 
Minute Gela- 
tine 




Measured 
for Use 

Four envelopes to each 
package, one pint of jelly to each 
envelope. Promptly dissolves in hot 
milk or water. Makes light, tempting, trans- 
parent desserts. 

Sample package of Minute Gelatine, enough to make 
a pint of jelly, sent free with Minute Cook Book. The 
Minute Cook Book gives a choice from 124 delicious 
Tapioca and Gelatine recipes which you can make in 
a few minutes. Use coupon. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY 
806 East Main Street Orange, Mass. 




Oreuige Fluff 

Mix 1 envelope Minute Gelatine and 3 
tablespoons sugar and dissolve m 1 cup oi 
boiling water. Add the sugar and grated 
rind of 1 orange and the Juice of ^ a lemon. 
When beginning to set, mix in the stiffly 
beaten whites of two eggs. This may be 
served In sherbet cups or molded as shown 
with whipped cream and whole nuta on 
top. 




Strawberry Tapioca 

Cook for fifteen minutes in a double boiler % cnp 
Minute Tapioca, Ji cup sugar, 1 teaspoon butter and 
3 cups of hot water. Crush 1 pint strawberries, 
sweeten to taste and let stand one-half hour. Tal?e 
the tapioca from the fire and stir in the fruit. Set in 
a cool place. It should be served very cold. This des- 
sert is delicious served with whipped cream. Rasp- 
berries may be used in place of strawberries. Shown 
molded in sherbet glass. 




Pineapple Tapioca 
Boil K cup Minute Tapioca, ^ cup of sugar, and a 
pinch of salt in 4 cups of water till clear. Remove 
from fire and add 1 cup pineapple grated or chopped 
with M cup of sugar. Serve with cream. This is 
shown served on a slice of canned pineapple with 
whipped cream and whole nut on top. 







9 



^>^^ 






</ 



■Q 



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- Do not accept substitutes 
81 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Sharp Knives and Scissors 



The HOUSEHOLD GRINDER 

will keep your knives and scissors 
sharp. 

"A Child can use it, it's fun." 

Satisfaction guaranteed or your money 
back. 

Sent postpaid for $1.50 




H. G. THOMPSON 

Plainfield New Jersey 



Domestic Science 

Hoxne-StMcly Coxirses 
Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Childrea. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents. 
"The Up-to-Date Home," 16 cents. 

AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO 

I TMI TQf T A I Dinner and Luncheon Menus containing 1 83 recipes. 
UilUOUAL Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv- 
ered 32c. Address King's Daughters Society, 2320 E. lstSt.,Dalath,Minn. 



iiiiiiii 




Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72 
Hours orSteai:iiingHot24Hours 

A necessity in every home — indispensable when 

traveling or on any outing'. Keeps baby's 

milk at right temperature, or invalid's 

hot or cold drink all night without heat, 

ice or bother of preparation. 

Thoroughly protected against breakage. 
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass. 
Instantly demountable— easy to keep clean. 

Typical Icy-Hot Values 

No. 31. Bottie— Black Morocco Leath- 
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5 25 
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for 
oysters,solidfood,ete.Pt. 3.00; Ot. 4.50 
No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00 
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine 
and tan, Pt. 1.75; Ot. 2.75 
No. 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint 
bottle and drinking cup 1.25 
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle Qt. 9.00 
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer 
cannot supply you, accept no sub- 
stitute— we will supply you direct^ 
at above prices, charges pre- 
paid. Write for catalog show- 
ing many styles from $1 up. 
Icy-Hot Bottle Co., 
Cincinnati, D' 





W^ 




Mudge Patent Canner 

The modern way of canning fruits and vegetables 
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY 



Write for information 



BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY 

3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa. 



One of the reasons why you will 
get the best results when you use 

Fleischmann*s Yeast 

is because this yeast is absolutely 
uniform in purity and strength. 
Our new recipe book free for the 
asking. 

The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS 

Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe 
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean 
pure unadulterated California products from producer to 
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to 
answer inauiries- 

JOHN T. GRIFFITH 
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, CaL 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALVS^AYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET> WHOLESOME 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not_accept substitutes 
82 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




SEEK 

Contains the Same Active Principle as Junket 

Every publication which has a household department prints recipes for making 
Junket. These vary from the very simple to the elaborate desserts. 

Authorities on the science of cookery write a great deal on the healthfulness 
and deliciousness of Junket Pudding and Ice Cream. 

And now the Junket Folks have a new dessert, CiESH^Fl , which is made by 
simply adding warm milk. Think what it means to a busy woman to know that 
this food dessert, so easily made, is nourishing for every member of her family. 

STRAWBERRY KES^H ICE CREAM 

Heat two quarts of milk luke warm, stir into it 2'/2 or 3 packages of 
^ES^fiH ^^^ ^/2 minute. Pour into ice cream can and let stand un- 
disturbed until coagulated or about ten minutes. Pack with ice and 
salt and freeze to a thick mush, then add 1/2 pint heavy cream and one 
quart of sweetened crushed strawberries. Finish freezing. 

SIX PURE FLAVORS 
Vanilla Chocolate Lemon 

Orange Raspberry Almond 

A postcard will bring a FREE SAMPLE and a Booklet of Recipes 

CHR. HANSEN^S LABORATORY, Inc., Box 2507, Little Falls N.Y. 




lOd HADE IN \ |0< 

ISn<G 6 FLAVORS ^ra^ 

THE JUNKCTTOLKS \ 



Send For This 

Free Sample Botde 



of 



^itchen^ouauet 



(Eeg. U. S. Pat. Office) 

Add a dash to your gravies, stews, 
soups and sauces. You will find it 
imparts a wonderfully delicious, appe- 
tizing relish and zest, and a rich, brown 
color. 

One Trial Will Convince You 

Once you have tried Kitchen Bouquet, you will 
never again be without this economical aid to 
cooking, which has been used by expert 
cooks for more than thirty years. 

With the sample bottle of Kitchen 
Bouquet, we will send you also a book- 
let containing many tested recipes for 
delicious dishes. Address 

The Palisade Manufacturing Co. 

353 Clinton Avenue, West Hoboken, N. J. 




The Babies of Our Nation 
Need Holstein Cows* Milk 

All over our land today we see movements toward the 
prevention rather than the cure of disease. In looking 
after the nation's future, our attention should center on 
the new-born babes. It is their right to have given them 
in the very beginning of their existence every assistance 
possible to insure them strong, healthy, vigorous con- 
stitutions. 

Nearly all the leading medical authorities today say, 
"clean pure, Holstein cows' milk is best for infant feed- 
ing" because it is nearest to the human mother's milk, and 
in addition it imparts the strength and vitality of the 
large, strong and vigorous, black-and-white Holstein cow. 

What's good for baby is good for any invalid or con- 
valescent. Holstein milk is naturally light-colored. Don't 
imagine that yellow milk is better, for it isn't. Investigate 
purebred registered Holstein cows' milk by sending for 
our free booklet, "The Story of Holstein Milk." 




Holstein-Freisian Association of America 

F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec'y 
15-W American Building, Brattleboro, Vermont 



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^2, 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




AMEfilCAM COOEEgY 



Practical Binders for American Cookery 

We have had made a number of binders in green, red and ecru buckram, 
appropriately lettered. They are neat, attractive and practical. Each holds 
conveniently from one to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine. 

As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a com- 
plete index, by preserving the magazines in a binder one will have at the 
end of the year a complete book on cooking and household science always 
handy for reference. 



Sent postpaid iW one (1) new subscription to American Cookery. Cash Price 50c 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. Ma's"" 



EAT AND GROW THIN 

Satisfying menus that will take off "weight with- 
out starving you. Tells what you can eat, not 
w^hat you can't. Thousands are f ollow^ing these 
rules successfully. Safe. Practical. Effective. 
Price $1, Postage extra. At any bookstore or 
from 

E. P. DUTTON & CO. 681 Fifth Ave. N.Y. 



We have issued a 16-page 

PREMIUM LIST 

SEND A POSTAL FOR ONE 

IF YOU can obtain among your friends a few sub- 
scriptions to American Cookery and 

so secure for yourself, without cost, some 
of the best and most useful cooking uten- 
sils— OR 

IF YOU wish lo purchase for cash the latest and 
most unique cooking novelties. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



For a limited time, we can supply 
all back numbers of American 
Cookery and Boston Cooking- 
School Magazine at 10 cts. each. 
Order now if you wish to com- 
plete your files. 



We will pay 25 cents each 
for Boston Cooking -School 
Magazine issues of August, 
1912, and June, 1913. 

Address 

AMERICAN COOKERY, BOSTON, MASS. 



T^HE bottom of the center space 
is closed ; in this can be served 
any creamed meat, oysters or vege- 
tables, garnished around the edges 
with parsley, radishes or olives. 

Another excellent way of using 
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf 
and fill with salad; or fill the shell 
with an ice or ice cream and gar- 
nish with fruit. 

We will send a set of Crisp 
Card Moulds — with recipes and 
directions — postpaid, to any present 
subscriber as premium for sending 
us two (2) new yearly subscriptions for American Cookery at $ 1 .00 each. Cash price $ 1 .00 prepaid. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO BOSTON. MASS. 

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
84 




ADVERTISEMENTS 



~ 1^" I For this Wonderful Set, prepaid 




$2.00 



GOOD 



Things to work with make 
light work, and better work. 



Look 



This eight piece Kitchen Set, 
every piece guaranteed and 
something you need. Six silver 
plated spoons, sterling silver 
pattern. Guaranteed for 10 
years. The value of the spoons 
is the same as we are selling you 
the combination for. 

Send in your order today 

Mackinac Specialty Co. 

Mackinac Island, Mich. 



I ESSONS IN COOKING '^^^£. 

*^266 seasonable menus with ddailed redpe* and hJl directions for pre- 
Baring each mealo Food Economy, Balanced Die«, Menus for all Oeca- 
tiOEs, Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette, 480 pp. 
Illustrated. Sent on approval for 60c and 60c for 4 montha or %i Cash. 

5ampl« Pages Pree. 
Am«rlcan Scbool of Home Economics, 603 W. 69tli St., Cliicago, HI. 



"Three-in-One*' 



Set of 60 Pieces, $5.75 




HILTON CHINA I^^S^^ 

Direct from Potteries 

Our " Three-in-One Specialty," illustrated above, includes every 
necessary dish for Breakfast. Dinner and Tea. The decoration 
is a graceful spray of dainty pink roses and soft green foliage. 
Each piece is lined with a pure gold edge. Sixty pieces. Price, 
packed for shipment, $5.75. Guaranteed to Satisfy. 
Free Book. Illustrating many exclusive sets of Hilton China — 
sold by mail at prices that save 

HILTON CHINA CO., Dept. A, East Liverpool, Ohio 



BORDEN'S 



W'HEN we went 
away last sum- 
mer we worried 
about getting a 
safe supply of 
cows' milk for 
our baby. A 
friend sug- 
gested "Eagle 
Brand." Baby 
liked it from the 
first and got 
along splendidly 
— needless to say 
we continued to use 

EAGLE 

Condensed 

MILK 




Send the coupon 
to-day for these 
helpful booklets. 




BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK CO. a.o 6-16 
108 Hudson St., New York City. 

Please send me the booklets checked: 

. . "The Important Business of Being a Mother." 

.o "Baby's Biography." 

.. "Borden's Recipes." 



13 Days' Free Trial 

Moth- ^ 
Proof 
Cedar' 
Chest 




15 Days* 

Free 

Trial 



How happy and grateful the woman or girl 

who becomes the proud possessor of a Piedmond Southern 

Red Cedar Chest ! It is the gift that every womanly heart longs 

for. "Wonderfully useful and economical. A Piedmont protects furs, 

woolens and plumes from moths, mice, dust and damp. Shipped on 1 5 

days' free trial. Direct from factory at new reduced prices. 

Write for u(j-pa?e catalosr. Postpaid free. Write today. 

PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO. Dept. 89 StatesvUle, N. C. 




SUPERIOR HOUSEHOLD ARTICLES 




LADD MIXERS 

No. 1, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially 
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into and remove from same : 
only ones thus made. We warrant they save 
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti- 
ful Made, By Parcel Post : 

No. I, $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. States. 
No. 1. 2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West 
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2, 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West 



"SATURN" 

CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — dust proof, 
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft. 
line, tested to 160 lbs. — takes 
present clothes-pin. Use out-door 
or m-door. Hangs anywhere. Two 
spreading rings. Positively the best 
made at any price. Sent Parcel 
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.; nickel- 
ed and polished, 65c. 




CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES PLEASE WRITE 

UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway. New York 



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-Do not accept subsLuun 
85 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE 
MOULDS IN SETS 



And in that way gel a free copy of the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and 
Recipes, which adds greatly to the actual value of the investment without increasing 
the cost of the same. The cost price, of each article, being the same, whether bought 
in sets or separately, and the rules and recipes are only given with the sets, because 
these cakes cannot be baked successfully in greased tins, and it is necessary to have 
the entire outfit in order to insure perfect success, in making all cakes. 

These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right, 
being so practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck** has been in 
the past, success will be assured, every time these instructions are followed correctly, 
and ANGEL, SUNSHINE and other of the most delicate, delicious and desirable 
cakes made easier than the ordinary ones are by the old methods. 

OUR SPECIAL OFFER 

If your dealer will not supply you, we will 
send, postpaid, our regular set, consisting of, I 
Loaf and 2 Layer Moulds, regular size, round 
or square, I Measuring Cup, 1 Egg Whip and 
a copy of our Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes, 
— to Offices — in the United States — east of 
the Mississippi River for 90 cents, and to those 
west of the same for $1.10. 

Our Scientific Method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let them stick, and loosen 
the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be removed — each mould being provided with 
openings at the sides, which are covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted to loosen the 
cake from the bottom. In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking, and prevents its 
settling, and becoming "soggy." 

They may claim that some other kinds of cake moulds are "just as good" as these, and also that 
these Scientific Rules and Recipes are no better than the ordinary ones, but you will only have to 
consult a few, of the thousands, of the cakemakers who are using these, or give the outfit a thorough 
trial yourself, in order to be convinced of the superior merits of these, — not only for Angel Cake, 
but for making all other kinds as well. 

AGENTS WANTED ^° canvass the Towns and Small Cities — where we have not been able to give 
**^"*" * '^ '' X^ll 1 1^1/ demonstrations — and educate the cakemakers in regard to the great advantages to be 
derived by practicing our scientific method of cake-making, and take orders for our speciahies. We will arrange with 
Church, Domestic Science and other Societies, that want to make money, to act as our agents. This offers a rare 
opportunity to build a very profitable, and permanent, business. For our special terms to agents, address Dept. A. 




THE CHAPMAN CO. 



Geneva, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
86 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



f 




Some Intimate Facts About Jell-0 



The waxed-paper bag inside the Jell-0 
carton affords absolute protection to the 
contents against moisture and atmospheric 
conditions. 

It is air-proof and moisture-proof , keeping 
the Jell-0 always pure, clean and sweet. 

The Jell-0 in every package is fresh, 
whether made yesterday or many months 
ago. It does not lose its flavor or grow stale. 

The last package of the dozen on the 
pantry shelf is as fresh and sweet as the first. 

From start to finish the operation of 



'putting-up" 



jELL-0 



is an interesting one. Wonderful automatic 
machines perform it — each completing a package of 
Jell-O in two seconds — from making the waxed-paper 
bag and filling it with Jell-O, to putting the filled bag 
and a recipe folder in the carton and closing and 
sealing it. 

It is all very sanitary and very satisfactory. 

The seven flavors of Jell-O are Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, 
Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate. All are pure fruit flavors, of 
course. Each, 10 cents at any grocer's. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., LeRoy, N.Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont. 



These trade - mark 

Crcsc 
Crystals' 



For CASES OF Stomacj 




pacKage 

arlcy 

AND DESSERT 
FOODS 
AND Liver Troubles 

r gooilt 
lie, write 
Y., U. S. A. 




/'/ :/ 



BREAD BOARD 

Eleven inch turned and carved maple bread board 
Imported, Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber for 
securing and sending us one(l) new yearly subscription 
for American Cookery. Cash price. 65c 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 

Boston. Mass. 



THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2^ 

Needed in every home. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to tahle or shelf. Turns 
easy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed make it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. 
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent 
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or 
with our famous 2-in-1 Flour Sifter 
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2 50. 



2-IN-l 



$152 



FLOUR 
SIFTER 

( Tesfed and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to 
clean. Has two compartments 
with sifter betw^een. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as often 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Far better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. 

Sent prepaid upon receipt of $1 .00 
(or three for $2.00), or with 
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every 
housewife needs them both. Order 
today. 

Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Write for our liberal proportion 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO. 

858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
87 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




speaking of his delight in his wife's housekeeping, Robert Louis Stevenson said: 
"My joy is to see her hanging clothes on the line in a high wind". 

npHERE is something almost jolly in a swinging line of snow-white clothes 
-■- dancing in the sun. Their very appearance is such good compensation for 
the work of washing that every woman should be interested in whatever will help 
make them whiter and clearer than ever. 

Ivory Soap will do this. It not only cleanses clothes thoroughly but because of 
its own whiteness and quality it does not discolor fabrics nor leave streaks and 
spots which defy the most thorough rhising. 

After washing with Ivory Soap, clothes are as clear and white as soap and water 
can make them. Sun and wind do not have to bleach out the effect of the wash- 
ing itself. They merely give the finishing touch to garments that one can be 
proud of the moment they go on the line. 



IVORY SOAP 




99M^ PURE 



Factories at IvoryJale, Ohio; Port loory. New York: Kansas City, Kansas; Hamilton, Canada. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
88 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



-^4Wfe'. 




"SHO' DATS DE PAPAH AH WANTS." ^ 

Painud by Edward V Brewer for Cream of Wheat Co Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheal Co. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
89 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXI 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1916 



No. 2 



CONTENTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 

PAGE 

SUGGESTIONS FOR SANDWICHES AND SIMPLE 

DINNERS FOR AUGUST 97 

DELIGHTS OF FOOD EATEN AL FRESCO. The Open- 
air Salle a Manger of French Town and Country Life. 111. 

Blanche McManus 99 

ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT IN FORM OF 

GARDEN AND FOUNTAIN. Ill Jane Vos 102 

A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL Ladd Plumley 106 

WORK AND WAGES VS. YEARS . . . AHce Whitaker 110 

NATURE'S APPEAL Caroline Louise Sumner 111 

WEATHER TO ORDER Helen Forrest 112 

AUGUST L. M. Thornton 114 

PHYLLIS PROVIDES Aldis Dunbar 115 

SIMPLIFIED BUNGALOW LIFE .... Anna B. Classon 116 

EDITORIALS 118 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with 

half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . Janet M. Hill 121 

MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN AUGUST „ „ 130 

MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN SEPTEMBER „ „ 131 

OUR DAILY BREAD OR THREE MEALS A DAY „ „ 132 

RENUNCIATION . Arthur W. Peach 134 

SUMMER DRINKS ....... Emma Gary Wallace 135 

SHAKESPEARE'S VEGETABLES Sarah Graham Morrison 137 
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— Young Squash— Nun's 
Fritters — Left-Over Macaroni and Rice — Making and Drinking 

Coffee in Europe — Etc 139 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 143 

THE SILVER LINING 147 

MISCELLANEOUS 160 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription^ $3.00 

Canadian postage 20c a year additional Foreign postage 40c. 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. 

Copyright, 1916, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

90 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



r'r:""ii 




Try this recipe for making 
orange layer cake 

Cream one-half cup Cottolene with one 
cup of sugar until very light. Add three 
eggs, one at a time, beating in each 
for five minutes before adding another. 

Then sift two teaspoons of baking pow- 
der with two cups of sifted flour, mix- 
ing thoroughly, and add to the other 
materials, alternating with a half cup of 
milk or water — (water if the cake is to 
be eaten while fresh). 

Beat the batter well after all the in- 
gredients are in. Bake in two layers in a 
moderately hot oven for about 20 
minutes. 

Cottolene is superior to anything else you 
can use for shortening or frying. It is 
wholesome, its use is simple, and it gives 
a delicious flavor to all foods that are short- 
ened with or fried in it 

Order a regular supply of Cottolene, the 
Natural Shortening, of your grocer. It is 
put up in pails of various sizes to suit your 
convenience. 

Write our General Offices, Chicago, for a copy of 
our real cook book, "HOME HELPS." 

EsKSLFAIRBANK^^nyJ 




■■■M 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
91 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Learn Dressmaking 
on Your Own Front 
Porch This Summer 

How many times have you 
wished you knew how to cut and 
fit a waist, a skirt or frock, or 
make and trim a hat? Think how 
much money you could save by 
making your own clothes ! 

The most wonderful opportun- 
ity to become expert in clothes and 
their making is open to you now. 
A practical, thorough, easy-lesson 
method has been perfected by the 

Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences 

to teach women and girls by mail, in their own homes. By the 
courses it offers you can learn on your own porch this summer, 
in your spare time, every phase of dressmaking or millinery. 
By fascinating new methods you will quickly learn how to 
design cleverly, to draft patterns, to make every sort of 
simple or elaborate garment, to select and 
r.se materials, or to design and make all 
kinds of millinery. You can qualify to make 
your own or your children's clothes cr to be 
a dressmaker or milliner. 

Send for this FREE Book 

"Dressmaking Made Easy" and "Millinery 
Made Easy" zre handsome books describing 
these courses in detail. Write a postal or 
letter today, or send this coupon, stating 
whether you are interested in Home or 
Professional Dressmaking or Millinery. We 
will send the right book— /ree. 





Woman's Institute, Dept.l2G, 358 Fifth Ave., New York 
Please send me one of your FREE books. I am interested in 
the subject I have marked below. 

D Home Dressmaking D Professional Dressmaking D Millinery 



Name 



Specify whether Mrs. or Miss 
I Address ^^ 



''The Fascination of the New Housekeeping" 

THAT is how members speak of the new cor- 
respondence course Household Engineering, 
Scientific Management of the Home. It pro- 
duces results in housekeeping just as marvelous as 
scientific management in other industries. It easily 
saves up to a third of the time spent in housework, 
smooths out difficulties and reduces expense. It 
changes indifference to enthusiasm and brings about 
the splendid efficiency attitude of mind that makes 
for success, health and happiness. 

All who are interested in housekeeping or who 
would like help in their problems or who wish to 
make progress in their life work are invited to enroll 
(this month)/r^^ of charge. Simply write a post card 
or note or clip the following: 

Am. School of Home Ecokomics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago 
Please enroll me for your new course, "Household Engineer- 
ing." Send details and directions and Part I, The Lahor Saving 
Kitchen, 64 pp. and the remaining eleven (11) Parts, one per 
month. When I am sure of the value of the course to me. I 
will pay $8.50 in full (or) I will send $1.00 per month till $9.00 
is paid. Otherwise I will return the lesson books received and 
pay nothing. 

Signed, 

(Kindly give some information about yourself.) 



CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS 

Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe 
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean 
pure unadulterated California products from producer to 
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to 
answer inquiries- 

JOHN T. GRIFFITH 
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal. 



INDEX FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 

Page 

Artistic Flower Arrangement 102 

August 114 

Delights of Food Eaten al Fresco 99 

Double Professional, A 106 

Editorials 118 

Home Ideas and Economies 139 

Menus 130, 131 

Nature's Appeal Ill 

Our Daily Bread, or Three Meals a Day . . . 132 

Phyllis Provides 115 

Renunciation. ■ 134 

Shakespeare's Vegetables 137 

Silver Lining, The 147 

Simplified Bungalow Life 116 

Suggestions for Sandwiches and Simple 

Dinners for August 97 

Summer Drinks - 135 

Weather to Order 112 

Work and Wages vs. Years 110 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes: 

Biscuit, Buttercup 127 

Chicken, Saute 125 

Chowder, Fresh Fish 121 

Corn, Sweet, Roasted 126 

Cornbread, Country Style 129 

Croquettes, Curried Fish, 111 122 

Croutons, Extract of Beef — Ham 124 

Crusts for Soup, Deviled 127 

Cucumbers, Stuffed 126 

Dumpling, Peach, Ih 127 

Eggs a la Messina 122 

Fishballs, Jerusalem 121 

Griddlecakes, Elizabeth's 129 

Ham, Baked, Autumn Style 124 

Ice cream, Manhattan 127 

Ice cream. Queen Style 128 

Jam, Tomato 128 

Lamb, Roast Leg of, Breton Style, 111. . . 123 

Livers, Chicken, and Bacon 126 

Muffins, Delicate 129 

Peaches, Windsor Style, 111 127 

Pudding, Indian Style 129 

Pudding, Princess, with Marshmallows 128 

Rice, Ristori Style 128 

Salad, Chicken, Early Summer Style. . . . 125 

Salad, Cream Cheese 129 

Salad, Stuffed Tomato, 111 124 

Sandwiches, Tomato, 111 125 

Sherbet, Peach 127 

Souffle, French Cocoa 129 

Steak, Breslauer, Mushroom Sauce. . . . 123 

Trout, Brook, with Bacon 122 

Vinegar, Raspberry 128 

Waffles, Green Corn, Ih 126 

Queries and Answers: 

Butter, Cooked 144 

Cake, Moist Gold 144 

Chutney 146 

Cocktail, Fruit, Service of 144 

Courses for a Formal Dinner 143 

Dishes for Fireless Cooker 143 

Eggs, To Preserve for Winter Use 145 

Tood for Fifty Persons 145 

Foods for a Formal Dinner 143 

Newspapers, Keeping of 146 

Pudding, Date and Tapioca 145 

Relish, Hebrew, Pepper, Philadelphia . . 146 

Scones, Scotch 145 

Soap, Home-made 146 

Strawberry and Raspberry Juice, Canned 145 

Worth Knowing, 146 



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Means the housekeeper's opportunity. Now is tTie time 
to get busy and put up for winter use. Don't depend on 
the stores. Do your own. It's easy, pleasant and safer. 
No fear of results. Everything is bound to come out right 
if you go by 

Mrs. Rorer's Canning and Preserving 

It's worth something to know that your time and materials are not wasted in 
guess work. Recipes for canning and preserving all the fruits and vegetables; 
how to make Marmalades, Jams, Fruit Jellies and Butters, Syrups, Catsups, 
etc.; also Pickling and Drying. 

Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents 

Ice Creams, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings 

It makes the mouth water to read the good things in this book. Delicious, 
easy to make, and money-saving. There are Philadelphia and Neapolitan Ice 
Creams, Sherbets, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings, Sorbets, etc., and Refresh- 
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Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents 

Mrs. Rorer's Hot Weather Dishes 

Hot weather certainly takes the edge off the appetite. Let us tempt it by 
the array of delightful dishes Mrs. Rorer has gotten together in this book. 
Easily prepared, giving ease and comfort to the perplexed housewife. 

Bound in cloth, 50 cents; by mail 55 cents 

Mrs. Rorer's New Salads 

A hot day and a nice, cool, crisp salad. What a combination ! Here are plenty 
for Dinners, Luncheons, Suppers, Receptions and for every day Home use. 

Bound in cloth, 75 cents; by mail 80 cents 

Mrs. Rorer's Sandwiches 

A bewildering array of Dainty Sandwiches for Suppers, Teas, Social Calls, 
Picnics, School Lunches, etc., and for all Emergencies. 

Bound in cloth, 50 cents; by mail 55 cents 



Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 
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93 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

A NEW BOOK 
OF COOKERY 

An almost indispensable companion volume to Miss 
Farmer's "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." It contains 
852 recipes upon all branches not included in her older 
book, many of which are not to be found elsewhere. 



Over 200 UlusiraciQt 



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TABLE SERVICE 

By LUCY G. ALLEN 

A clear, concise; and yet comprehensive exposition of the 
waitress' duties, including not only laying the table and serv- 
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Fully illustrated. $i.2j net, postpaid. 

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•SOME OPINIONS- 




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very fully and attractively illus- 
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"Her new book is attractively 
supplied with illustrations — to 
look at them makes one hungry — 
and the recipes are given with clear 
directions." — Christian Register, 
Boston. 

"The book is very pleasing to the 
eye as well as satisfactory on the 
practical side." — Pittsburg Post. 



Three Up-to-date Domestic Science Texts 



A Guide to Laundry Work "' 



MARY D. CHAMBERS, B S., A.M. 

Formerly Instructor of Normal Classes in 
Domestic Science, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, 
N. T.i Professor of Domestic Economy and Head of the Department, The James Milliken University, Decatur, 
Illinois ; Professor of Chemistry and Home Economics, and Head of the Departments, Rockford College, Rock' 
ford, Illinois. 

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents. 

This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry work. The description 
of every process is so clear that the pupil can readily follow it. The diagrams of folding clothes after ironing are 
very clear, detailed and numerous. The scientific side has not been neglected. The reason for every process is given, 
but in very simple language. The chapter on reagents deals with simple chemistry applied to laundry work. 



MARY D. CHAMBERS, 
B.S.. A.M. 



Principles of Food Preparation 

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system. Each chapter has 5 parts: 
I. Selected recipes, great variety from which to choose, selected because they illustrate the principles studied in the 
chapter. II. List of topics for study or discussion, the topics including correlated subjects, bearing on the work of 
the chapter. III. Questions on the lesson, so framed as to stimulate in the student the ability to generalize. IV. 
Practical exercises to encourage original application of the principles learned. V. Several simple experiments in the 
chemistry and analysis of food. Valuable appendices. A series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased 
and the 100 colorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of 
food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students. 

I • n t. i^ 1 • By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Lessons in Llementary Cooking ^ sfo?/o?f.r./r„^*5.si:"" 

Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 
This book is designed for the use of teachers in the elementary schools and also for use as a text book in such schools 
when a text book on cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty-seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full 
and complete conrse in cooking, besides outlining supplementary work. This is just the book for which teachers 
and schjols have been looking. Indeed, we do not see how any teacher of cooking can be without this book. 



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handy for reference. 

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95 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Just As 
Easy! 



I n s u re 

delicious, 
digestible 
cakes, pas- 
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and doughnuts by always using 



limon Pure Leaf Lard 



You are sure of unvarying quality — a fact of which 
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Suggestions for Sandwiches 

BREAD . . . White, rye, whole wheat, Graham, French, orange, noisette, Boston brown, 
(with and without raisins), dinner rolls, baking powder biscuit, buttercup 
biscuit, English mufhns, scones (sweetened and unsweetened). 

FILLING . . . Sardines, sardines with sifted egg-yolks, anchovy paste, anchovies pounded, 
deviled ham, ham and chicken chopped together or sliced thin, cold pickled 
tongue, cream cheese and orange marmalade, cream cheese and olive butter, 
cream cheese and pimientoes, peanut butter, sliced nuts and grated cheese, 
cream cheese and chopped ginger (preserved), strawberry jam, raspberry 
or strawberry jam and chopped almonds. 

TEA HOUSE Club, tomato, mayonnaise of lettuce and sliced eggs, chicken salad, hot ham, 

QA\Tr»\Y/Tr^I-II7Q '^'^^ cheese (ham or cheese sandwiches dipped in beaten egg and milk and 

oAINlJWlL.Hilb fried), hot roast beef, hot broiled bacon, cress, lettuce or cucumbers with 

(Eaten with fork) French dressing. 



Simple Dinners for Hot Days (August) 

{To eliminate long-continued stove heat.) 



I 

Jellied Bouillon 

Broiled Bluefish or Lakefish 

Creamed Potatoes Summer Squash 

Sliced Tomatoes or Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Peach or Lemon Sherbet 

II 

Lamb Chops, Broiled 

White or Sweet Potatoes, Grilled 

Egg Plant, Saute 

Lettuce and Chinese Mustard, French Dressing 

Sea Moss-Farine Blancmange, Sliced Peaches, 

Cream 

Iced Tea 



III 

Rump Tenderloin, Broiled, Maitre d'Hotel 
Potatoes Hashed in Milk 
Stewed Tomatoes 
Celery 
Individual Charlotte Russe 

IV 

Veal Loaf 

Creamed Potatoes 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Lettuce and Peppergrass, French Dressing 

Floating Island 

Iced Tea 




BASKET WITH COMPARTMENTS FOR COVERED 

PITCHER AND HANDLED GLASSES 

FOR ICED TEA 




A BOHEMIAN GARDEN DINING-ROOM IN FRANCE 



American Cookery 



Vol. XXI 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 



No. 2 







AN OPEN-AIR RESTAURANT IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE 



Delights of Food Eaten Al Fresco 

Tht Open Air Salles-a-M anger of French Town and Country Life 

By Blanche McManus 



SUMMER in France means life out- 
doors, not spasmodically, but as 
a rule, the household living liter- 
ally in the open. The French have no 
halfway measures; they live either in a 
sealed-up house or practically an grand 
air. They sew, gossip, receive their 
friends and make open-air living-rooms of 
their gardens from the moment the first 
buds of spring appear. 

In the fair land of France the crowning 
pleasure of summertime means meals 
taken out of doors. The French at home, 
while touring or holiday-making, de- 



mand to be fed out of doors; indeed, they 
would consider themselves defrauded of 
the best part of their outing, if condemned 
to eat in a stuffy salle a manger when 
the leaves are on the trees and the sun is 
brightly shining, and as they have a de- 
lightful fashion of making a pleasurable 
function of the prosaic process of feeding, 
idling in the country holds out the great 
attraction of al fresco meals. So it is 
that one finds himself catered for in the 
open air at hotels and restaurants of all 
classes and importance throughout la 
belle France. And few there are who 



99 



100 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



would object to what is really a picnic 
without any of the attendant ennuies 
that meals out of doors usually entail. 
The Parisian out-of-doors cafe-restau- 
rants (note that it must be thus hyphen- 
ated, if it is a place where meals are 
served, a cafe alone being a place where 
drinks only may be had) decorate not 
unpleasingly the broad pavements of 
the tree-shaded boulevards of ah the 
quartiers. Their brightly tinted chairs 
and wicker tables, set out with snowy 
napery, fluttering in both winter and 
summer breezes, are marshalled in 
long rows on what is styled the terrasse 




GARDEN OF AN OLD WAYSIDE INN 



of the restaurant, which is but a slice of 
the sidewalk, leaving only a narrow thor- 
oughfare for the passerby, overflowing 
even into the street itself on fete-days, 
when all true Parisians flock to these gay 
open-air dining-rooms for the better part 
of their day's amusement. 

Along what the Parisian calls "les 
Grands Boulevards," the spacious, linked 
up series of tree-lined thoroughfares, 
which form the main artery of the lively, 
beating heart of the ville lumiere, are 
to be found dozens of these sidewalk 
annexes to the establishments of the 
famous purveyors of the best French 
cuisine. There may be a screen 
of a thin dado of evergreens, 
placed in ornamental tubs, or, 
more unblushingly, all may be 
in the open, as once French roy- 
alty dined in sight of all the 
world. 

Then these dining-rooms of 
the Paris boulevards furnish 
what may be styled the box- 
seats, from which to view the 
kaleidoscopic, passing-show of 
the gay capital. The many 
varied, interesting and astonish- 
ing and amusing types of the 
deux mondes, so wonderfully 
represented here, actually brush 
past one's luncheon or dinner 
table and furnish the sauce 
piquante that gives the true zest 
to the recherche plats, creations 
of some celebrated chef, which 
are served in this gayety-charged 
atmosphere of Paris en plein air. 
It is, however, that sylvan 
paradise of the Parisians, the 
Bois de Boulogne, whose leafy 
alleys and flower decorated gar- 
den plots form the ideal staging 
for open-air repasts unequalled 
by any other of Paris' al fresco 
dining-rooms. There are a 
dozen or more of these restau- 
rants of the Bois, many of them 
housed in ornamental pavilions 
or artfully rustic chalets, dotted 






DELIGHTS OF FOOD EATEN AL FRESCO 



101 



over the green vistas, whose 
reputations are not alone for 
their famous cuisine, but for the 
unique facilities they offer for 
enjoying a meal under spread- 
ing chestnut trees or to the 
accompaniment of soft-sighing 
breezes through stately pines, 
within sight almost of Paris' 
shops. For this they have 
become international in their 
fame. 

Among the memories of Paris 
days and nights there flits, as a 
bright painted butterfly hovers 
over brilliant summer flowers, 
pictures of gay luncheon par- 
ties, or groups of afternoon-tea 
votaries, picturesquely disposed 
around the little tables on the 
banks of the tiny rose-bowered 
lake dotted with swans, the 
mis-en-scene of the open-air din- 
ing salles of the Pavilion d' 
Armenonville, or the clematis- 
perfumed domain of the Pre 
Catalan's group of chalet res- 
taurants. 

Again these reminiscences du 
gourmet will be spangled, as 
with a dance of fireflies on a 
southern night, with the glitter 
of evening hours at the Chateau 
de Madrid, stately as a veritable 
Renaissance chateau, and the 
most frequented of all the chic 
Bois resorts, its open court yard dining- 
room representative with a throng of 
mondains of many circles within circles 
and without circles, which make up the 
complex, mysterious, often dubious, but 
always entertaining and fascinating 
social system of the constellations of 
Paris. It is as a fete-champetre of the 
old court days at Versailles, when 
Louis XIV first set the fashion of 
dining out of doors in France. 

All these al fresco restaurants of the 
Bois are high in popular favor for wed- 
ding breakfasts, chic Parisian bridal 
parties considering it the crowning joy 




r 



^^^i^^^z:^ 



COURTYARD OF THE HOSTELLERIE GUILLAUAIE LE 
C0NQUER.\NT 

of an auspicious day to have their 
wedding breakfast, which is really a 
banquet of prodigious proportions, under 
the trees of Paris' great dooryard park. 
Saturda}^ the popular bridal day of the 
Parisians, sees a continual stream of 
bridal processions about to celebrate the 
day by sitting down to a many-course 
luncheon served and prepared beside the 
tinkling music of the "Cascades," about 
which is circled a colony of out-of-door 
eating places. 

War's prelude did dim the custom 
during the first feverish months when 
(Continued on page 152) 



Artistic Flower Arrangement in the Form of Gardens 

and Fountains 



By Jane Vos 



WHEN you and I were young, 
dears," it was different. We 
reverently trod the pebbly 
paths in Grandma's formal garden, 
listening with awe to the "Snip! Snip!" 
of her relentless scissors. Meantime, 
short-stemmed larkspurs, bachelor but- 
tons, lady slippers, sweet-scented clove 
pinks and all the rest of the old-fashioned 
flowers tumbled riotously into our bas- 
kets. When this daily flower-gather- 
ing rite was over. Little Boy Blue and 
the Brownie minced sedately by Grand- 
ma's side, each helping to carry the 
precious floral receptacles. After- 
wards, we filled the vases with crystal 
water from the spring, and "arranged" 
the flowers. Cannot you just close your 
eyes and see the big Chinese vase Sailor 
Uncle Ben brought from over the seas? 
And such a conglomeration as it was 
when it was filled with roses, nastur- 
tiums, bachelor buttons, lady slippers;, 
and even the sweet-scented clove pinks! 
Perhaps the Brownie and Little Boy 




DAFFODILS ARE ARISTOCRATS 



Blue were each privileged to arrange a 
prim little nosegay, apiece, of these 
same vari-colored flowers, encasing them 
in lace-edged, paper flower-holders, 
afterwards walking decorously beside 
Grandmother to the Big White House 
where the Sick-a-bed Lady lived. 

That was in the Long Ago. Now- 
a-days it is different. There are no more 
mixed nosegays, except in our imagina- 
tion, and the one that is best remem- 
bered has a sprig of amaranth tucked 
away in the heart o' it. 

Like the Japanese, we are aiming at 
simplicity, especially in our flower ar- 
rangement. The single rose with its 
own foliage reposing gracefully in a tall 
vase; the loosely arranged cluster of 
sweet peas, or Poeticus Narcissus, quite 
nearly approach the Japanese idea of 
cherry and peach blossoms, or a lovely 
cluster of wistaria arranged in an ap- 
propriate receptacle in the tokonoma — 
the place of honor in a Japanese house- 
hold. 

Elaborate banks of roses, lilies, maiden- 
hair fern and floral whatnots, reposing 
on ostensible wall mirrors in the center 
of the dining-room table, are no longer 
considered in good form. The simpler 
the arrangement of the new center- 
piece, the better, according to art- 
nouveau methods, in order that those 
who surround the festal board, be they 
the members of our own family, or 
guests bidden to accept our hospital- 
ity, may be able to see those opposite. 
Is there anything more exasperating 
than to sit at a luncheon table and be 
obliged to crane your neck, first this 
way, then that, in a vain effort to be- 
hold your vis-a-vis when addressing her ? 

Then, too, there is something about 
the formal arrangement of flowers that 



102 



ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT 



103 



is blatantly disquieting, like the effect 
of brilliant red or crude figured wall 
papers. 

AH the shops, from the florist's to the 
department store, now show an assort- 
ment of flower receptacles that are in 
striking contrast to the old-fashioned 
tall vase. The new holder is a modest, 
shahow affair, and it comes in all shapes, 
sizes and colors. There are Japanese 
Seiji bowls in green and yellow; there 
are blue and white Canton ones that 
remind us of Grandma's best dishes; 
there are the most heavenly iridescent 
blue ones imaginable — so blue that they 
are green like the tear-bottles of the 
ancients, to say nothing of a long list 
of Grubes, both real and imitation. 
These range from the ten-cent store 
variety up to the cut-glass and silver 
epergne; but nothing more beautifully 
effective can be chosen than one of the 
pure white china or plain colored re- 
ceptacles. Many of these are inexpen- 
sive and when complete are as strik- 
ing as those that cost a small fortune. 
It is all a matter of taste and color ef- 
fect. 

A pure white china "pond," for ex- 
ample, arranged with Poeticus Nar- 
cissi in a holder, as pictured, a few blos- 
soms scattered carelessly about in the 
water, is given a striking bit of color by 
the yellow centered blossoms, the blue- 
bird perched on the edge of the bowl, and 
the brilliantly tinted blue, gold and 
black butterfly poised over a clump of 
the blossoms. Here, too, one gets the 
effect of shadows, when the delicate 
petals are reflected in the water. Hover- 
ing at the base of the flower stems on 
the holder are two bluebirds, placed with 
their bills together. Could anything 
be lovelier? The cost of this par- 
aphernalia did not exceed one dollar. 

Butterflies and china birds of all colors 
and varieties are for sale in nearly 
every general shop in the land since 
this new arrangement of flowers first be- 
gan to have a vogue. Our butterfly 
and bird specimens may thus adorn^our 




A SINGLE ROSE 

flower gardens in miniature, instead of 
reposing in dust-covered glass cases as 
of yore. If we have no such specimens 
(and who has not at least one or two?) 
there are wood-flber butterflies painted 
so cleverly that they resemble the 
natural ones enough almost to defy de- 
tection. These sell from ten cents up. 
China birds are also in evidence in most 
of the shops, and with a bit of plastico 
or a daub of glue, preferabh^ the former, 
the}^ may be poised in the most life- 
like fashion wherever desired. Wax 
water-lilies, too, in all colors are for sale 
at twenty-five cents apiece, and one or 
two of these, resting on their natural 



104 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




MOTHER AND BABY BASKET 

looking waxen green pads, add much to 
a flower fountain. With goldfish at 
five cents apiece, one may combine an 
aquarium with this flower garden. 

One of the loveliest arrangements 
ever seen, which may offer a suggestion 
to some one who would do likewise, was 
that presented to a young mother. It 
was similar to the one just described, 
but instead of the two birds poised in 
the clump of narcissi, there was a beau- 
tiful white stork carrying a baby in his 
yellow beak. Could any floral offer- 
ing have given more pleasure? To be 
sure flowers fade, but the receptacle 
with its holder and the stork are last- 
ing reminders of the giver, and ten 
cents' worth of flowers a week will go 
a long way toward making such a foun- 
tain a perpetual joy. These storks are 
difficult to find, so it would be well to 
keep an eye out for one before it is 
needed. A little hoard of such inexpen- 
sive accessories will be found useful when 
they are required at a moment's notice. 
A Japanese store, and the basement of 
most department shops are good places 
for such miscellaneous shopping. 

At a "Sweet Sixteen" birthday party 



the decorations were white marguerite 
daisies. The center table arrangement 
was, therefore, very simple. An inex- 
pensive imitation Giube receptacle was 
supported by three grinning little Gods 
of Luck. Surmounting the daisies, as 
if just poised for flight, was a butter- 
fly in real Brazilian colorings. 

In Grandma's day we arranged our 
daffy-down-dillies as primly as all the 
rest of our flowers, frequently violat- 
ing good taste and our innate sense of 
the eternal fitness of things by using 
them in mixed bouquets. No one would 
think of doing so nowadays, any more 
than we would wear seal rings on our 
thumbs and forefingers, unless as re- 
minders! 

Glass receptacles set on a circular 
table mirror are much used for these 
blossoms, but nothing, to my notion, is 
so lovely as a yellow receptacle. Such 
a symphony in yellow was seen re- 
cently. Oddly enough it proved to be a 
plebian, bread mixing-bowl, late from the 
culinary department of its respected 




FOR "SWEET SIXTEEN" PARTY 



ARTISTIC FLOWER ARRANGEMENT 



105 



menage; but when the blossoms were 
arranged loosely in the holder, their 
slender green ribboned fronds reflect- 
ing in the water over a yellow water- 
lily and its pad, this particular floral 
offering was a joy to be remembered 
by its recipient. Aside from the ten- 
cent flower holder and the twenty-five 
cent water-lily, its cost was nothing. 

Did you ever attend a Kewpie party? 
If not, originate one at once. Since 
meeting the mother of the Kewpies, 
sweet, smiling Rose Harris O'Neill, the 
Kewpie babies have given a new thrill 
of joy to my heart. As a result, such 
an affair was given in honor of a small 
li;^e Kewpie, as a birthday celebration,^ 
also. There were Kewpie souvenirs, 
to be sure, and in the center of the table 
was a pink and white Kewpie baby tak- 
ing a morning dip, presumably — in a 
pink and white fountain, on the edge 
of which perched a bluebird for hap- 
piness. Indigo blue asters matched the 
blue of his Kewpie and Birdship's eyes. 
Kewpie cookies and candies, and other 
Kewpie goodies made glad the hearts 
of all the dear Kewpie kiddies present. 

Floral baskets are sometimes desired 
for some formal, special occasion — May 
Day festivities, graduation, home and 
church weddings, and as an offering to 
a young mother, perhaps. In the ar- 
rangement of such, there is a wide lat- 
itude, but even so, it will be in sharp 
contrast to the old-time basket of a few 
years ago. Then, sweet alyssum and 
a conglomeration of other flowers were 
broken off close to their stems, after 
which they were tightly wired to tooth- 
picks. The life was thus squeezed out 
of them to start with. By the aid of 
these toothpicks, however, the floral 
sprig was thrust into its bed of green 
spagnum moss. There is the same 
modus operandi today, but the effect is 
quite different. The moss-lined basket 
(if the flowers are to retain their pristine 
freshness), toothpicks and wire, the lat- 
ter wound rather loosely about the stem 



in order not to cut it, result in an ar- 
rangement that is superb. Roses, pan- 
sies and lilies-of-the-valley blend es- 
pecially well, when the latter tower their 
waxen cups high above their sister 
blooms. 

There is a table arrangement used much 
in Germany, which has now found its way 
to America, though it is still by no means 
common. The German frau calls it 
"Lazy Susan," but it is entirelv differ- 
ent from our product used for salt 
and pepper shakers. Its only point of 
similarity is the swivel upon which it 
turns. The one which joys my heart is 
of mahogany, and it turns automatically 
at the slightest touch. It contains seven 
china dishes, six of which are trapezoids, 
the center one being octagonal. The 
trapezoids fit about the center octagon, 
forming a perfect whole. 

In these seven dishes a whole meal is 
sometimes served, on informal occasions, 
and for afternoon tea, or even luncheon 
affairs this particular accessory is most 
useful and picturesque, as it provides 
receptacles for the different edibles that 
go with such a ceremony. The octagonal 
dish in the center is just the right size 
for a fiower holder, and when arranged 
with daffodils, daisies or any tall flowers, 
the tout ensemble is perfect. On one oc- 
casion it held a half dozen Poeticus Nar- 
cissi in graduated lengths. These hos- 
pitably inclined their dainty heads and 
green fronds over the different dish com- 
partments — the pink and white pepper- 
mints, maraschino-cherried chocolates, 
green mints, robin's-egg blue pecans, 
Japanese ginger, candied fruit, marsh- 
mallows, macaroons, etc. 

The "Lazy Susan" under discussion 
has white china dishes with gold bands, 
"but there are many shown in the depart- 
ment stores and Japanese shops in other 
ware, — blue and white, green and white, 
and yellow. Such ^ treasure makes an 
exceptionally useful and attractive 
flower-holder, thus combining nearly 
every feature of service. 



A Double Professional 

By Ladd Plumley 



BROOK PEMBLETON was puz- 
zled to the limit of puzzledom. 
Was the woman opposite her 
just right as to head? That is on the 
inside. The outside, with its mass of 
short curls, was hardly conventional — 
and, yes, as Brook's clear eyes took in 
a line of demarcation over the powdered 
forehead, she was certain. Surely the 
outside was a wig, and in its flaunting 
way a most unpleasant wig. 

**You see I want things a little — how 
shall I explain? Different? Folks like 
a change. Goodness knows, I don't 
wonder! I've seen the time, if I could 
have broken away from pots and pans 
and got a change, I'd have done most 
anything. That was a sight of time 
ago — when Ezra was alive. Before 
all this came," and the red pudgy hand, 
glittering with a surplus of rings, swung 
out, as Brook again glanced around 
her at the amazing bizarreness of the 
reception-room where she and Mrs. 
Wallace sat. The principal eye-grabber 
was a fire screen, a screen like a stained- 
glass window, only instead of a St. Paul 
or a Madonna was a color-screaming 
parrot with a mighty bunch of purple 
grapes in its gilded beak. 

"I always have in my repertoire nice 
old-fashioned things and two or three 
of what can be called novelties," said 
the girl. 

*T ain't much on foreign tongues," 
remarked Mrs. Wallace, glancing doubt- 
fully at Brook. The broad face was a 
grotesque attempt to make a rough hon- 
est countenance refined with the use of 
powder and — if it must be acknowl- 
edged — some rouge. 

*'I mean," added the girl, "my pro- 
gram includes both old-fashioned 
things and some of the newest — classi- 
cal and popular. ' ' 

"Seems to me they sometimes give it 



another word — but this morning I 
don't remember. Seems to me it's 
something like what's in the Bible — • 
what the Children of Israel ate in the 
wilderness — you know — yes, manna! 
I've always thought it must have been 
awful slim eating — though it was food 
as must have set light on the stomach 
and might be good for folks traveling 
in such heat and sand." 

Brook was more puzzled than ever. 
What had manna to do with a program 
of songs for an afternoon reception? 
Then it flashed to her mind what the 
strange woman meant. 

"Manna, manna!" said the girl. "I 
see. You mean menu — though we 
don't frequently use menu in just that 
way." 

"That's it!" exclaimed Mrs. Wallace, 
flashing out the pudgy hands again. 
"I knew it was something like manna. 
That's the way I seen it in Chicago and 
'Frisco hotels. But it don't matter. 
Call it as you please so long as the folks 
gets their fill and have a real nice time. 
Make it old-fashioned or new-fangled 
and I'll be satisfied — only if you ask me, 
old-fashioned, says I." 

At the agency in Boston, Brook had 
been told that Mrs. Wallace was a 
wealthy widow and that there would be 
no difficulty in obtaining fair payment. 
As yet, however, nothing had been said 
concerning money. It would be best 
to have an understanding. 

"Then it is all arranged," said Brook, 
"except — " 

"Yes, yes," hastily interposed Mrs. 
Wallace. "You mean the pay. Now 
what do you professionals expect — 
for just one day? You see, although I 
live in a big house and all, I get along 
mostly as I always have. With so 
many poor folks and hospitals and 
everything seems as if it ain't just right 



106 



A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL 



107 



to indulge yourself — the way I see 
some folks do. As I said, I don't know 
about what professionals expect." 

"I get as high as twenty-five dollars 
for such an occasion," replied Brook. 
"Not as often as I would like but that is 
my charge. The agency — "- 

"Seems like a big price," remarked 
Mrs. Wallace. "Though it ain't as if 
every little while I was giving such 
doings. Still — twenty-five dollars!" 

"If you feel that way, let us say 
twenty," said Brook. "I shouldn't 
want you to think I was overcharging 
you. The agency — " 

"Even twenty seems big," said Mrs. 
Wallace . ' ' There 's lots of other expenses .' 
And there are so many ways to use all 
the money around loose — not alto- 
gether on myself, you understand. 
Goodness knows I've got heaps and 
more of things that Ezra gave me 
before he died; things I never expected 
to have and heaps more than I can ever 
use. But, after all, folks now-a-days 
set a store by what you called it and 
what some call the word like manna. 
But — pshaw! I ain't much on bar- 
gaining — not now-a-days. I wouldn't 
like you and the agency to think that 
I was beating you down — that ain't 
my way. Fifty years from now it'll be 
all the same. We'll settle it at twenty- 
five. Though there was a time when 
twenty-five would have carried Ezra 
and me for a month. But I do think if 
you go into a thing you ought to see 
it through. We'll say twenty-five." 

The matter of payment settled, a 
parting as voluminous as everything 
connected with the expansive lady of 
the curly head and the great house took 
place. A jangling call -bell was rung and 
a maid appeared — the buxom and 
pleasant girl who had showed Brook 
into the reception room and now con- 
ducted her toward the front door. 

As Brook and the maid passed through 
the hall the girl noticed three women 
who were seated near the door. It was 
easy to see that the three were servants, 



perhaps applying for a position. The 
looks they directed toward one another 
were not friendly — they can be roughly 
described as scowls fringed with venom. 

Brook took her way to the railroad 
station, and before her train for Boston 
came in she again ran into the three 
women. It would have been difficult 
not to overhear the upbraidings of 
Mrs. Wallace which the three exchanged. 
The upbraidings were vigorous; they 
were more than vigorous — they were 
more venomous than the looks ex- 
changed in Mrs. Wallace's hall. Some- 
thing was vindictively thrown out about 
the "cheek of the fat old curly-head, 
who wanted a cook for just one night." 
One of the others added, "Sure and she 
wouldn't pay me more than the exact 
fare for th' comin'! May she git her 
fare to purgatory — and may I be there 
to see! 'Tis the sudden-rich as stirs 
me. A job at cooking' for th' space 
av one day! Whin we all shows our 
testimonials, we're informed she's en- 
gaged our superior. I ask ye, would it 
be stirrin' ye to the gizzard? I ask ye?" 
She stared at the singer as if Brook 
could answer the question. 

The girl was amused by this exchange 
of vituperations on the part of the three 
unsuccessful applicants. The full ap- 
preciation, however, of the humor of 
the situation did not come to her until 
the afternoon of the engagement. 

Meantime, when an idle moment came 
in the midst of her rounds of teaching, 
the girl's mind turned in the direction of 
the great house, with its bewigged lady 
of strange confusion of speech, her flash- 
ing, pudgy hands, her broad face — 
disfigured but honest face, — and the 
coming reception, where the singer had 
promised both old-fashioned things and 
novelties to one who confused a musical 
program with the light nourishment of 
the Children of Israel in the sands and 
heat of the desert. 

The reception was to be at four 
o'clock, to be followed, as Mrs. Wallace 
had explained, by "the dinner at seven," 



108 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The lady had added, "Seems like a late 
time for meat food — and it must set 
heavy on the stomach. Still, if folks 
are used to it, maybe it ain't more harm- 
ful than eating pie for breakfast — 
though as for me, give me my dinner at 
noon!" 

If the reception was fixed for four 
o'clock, considered Brook, and the 
dinner at seven, she could certainly plan 
to return to Boston by six or thereabouts. 

It was really important that, on that 
day, Brook should get back to Boston 
early in the evening. This was not a 
professional reason. On that evening 
she had promised to answer a question 
that some girls never have an opportun- 
ity to answer at all, and that to any girl 
must seem a rather exciting question. 

For Brook the question was hardly as 
exciting as it must be generally. She 
had known the man, Clarence Cobb, 
ever since her earliest girlhood. Since 
he had moved to New York they had 
corresponded, and with much regularity. 
He was now coming to receive Brook's 
answer to the question that the girl for 
some time had seen was inevitable, 
although she would have much pre- 
ferred it should be delayed or, perhaps, 
not asked at all. 

Are girls sometimes sure until they 
answer the **yes" or ''no" what the 
answer will be? For one, I doubt it. 
At all events, in Brook's case, the an- 
swer in her mind was sometimes "yes" 
and frequently "no." Yet the girl 
was not generally indecisive. To earn 
your living in teaching singing, however, 
with an all-too-infrequent concert or 
reception, was work of the hardest. 
And Clarence Cobb, while not wealthy, 
offered a share in a pleasingly large 
professional income. Did she really 
love him? He was a man that any girl 
would be proud to have for a husband, 
if she loved him. Did she? Sometimes 
she felt so harried and confused that she 
could have almost pitched a coin, 
Clarence "heads" and music lessons 
a toilsome "tails," and let it go at that. 



As the afternoon and evening of Mrs. 
Wallace's reception came nearer and 
nearer. Brook's mind — and perhaps her 
heart — simulated the beam of an old- 
fashioned scale, with "no" and "yes" 
in the respective pans. It seemed to 
the distracted girl that a mote on one 
side or the other would determine which 
way the scale would tremble to its 
decision. 

I am inclined to throw in the remark 
that, if "matches are made in heaven", 
there must be times when the angel- 
craftsman of the chains must hold his 
hammer suspended in mid-air, in- 
decisively, before he forges into place the 
final link. Indeed, there may be times 
when even as the hammer descends it 
shatters into fragments the link which 
the second before the intention was to 
rivet into place. 

On the afternoon designated, it was 
with hopes that the fluttering indeci- 
sion of her heart would affect the vocal 
chords, that Brook took the suburban 
train to the town of Mrs. Wallace's 
reception. She was very early. With 
all the garishness of the house, she had 
doubts of the grand piano; the piano 
she had glanced at with misgiving — a 
piano of gilt with absurd bronze cupids 
fluttering up its massive legs. 

She had no accompanist and she 
wished to familiarize herself with the 
tone of the cupid monstrosity, as well 
as test the spaces in the great rooms 
which she must fill with her voice. She 
took a cab at the station, gained the big 
house and the entrance. 

"Mrs. Wallace says you're to go 
around to the kitchen door," said the 
buxom maid. 

Thinking that the house was in an 
upheaval and the front hall perhaps 
temporarily blocked. Brook followed the 
directions of the maid and presented 
herself at a back entrance, where a stout 
heavy-featured woman admitted her. 

With curious eyes the woman stared 
at the girl. "You can leave your things 
in that room," she said, pointing into a 



A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL 



109 



room which was evidently a servants' 
sitting room and which adjoined a hall- 
way that opened into a great kitchen. 
"Mrs. Wallace will be here in a mo-' 
ment," continued the woman, still eyeing 
the girl with staring eyes. ''She's been 
mighty nervous about your showing 
up. Though I said that these here 
professionals' have things down to a fine 
point and you would be here in lots of 
time. Still, seems to me the big turkey 
ought to go in before very long — though, 
of course, — I ain't a professional." 

Very much puzzled. Brook laid aside 
her hat and wraps. She retained her 
music roll. The woman hastened away 
and a moment later was heard giving to 
her mistress the news that ''the profes- 
sional, ma'am, has come, just as I said 
she would." 

A few minutes later, Mrs. Wallace 
hastened to where Brook was standing, 
the lady's broad face very good-natured 
but red and strained with anxiety. 

"My goodness!" exclaimed Mrs. Wal- 
lace. "You did give me an awful scare! 
I thought you'd never come. But I 
suppose, being as your're a professional, 
you know your business." 

Brook attempted to put in a question, 
but Mrs. Wallace's excited voice con- 
tinued. You'll have to get an apron to 
cover up that dress — • it's plain as can be, 
but any one can see it becomes you aw- 
ful nice. I suppose that roll in your 
hand is a part of what you call your 
program. You'll find the one I thought 
out on the table under the window. It 
isn't much like them folks ate in the 
desert — guess they'd have left their 
manna, if they'd had a good fat fourteen- 
pound turkey. Then there's a mighty 
nice kind of mince meat — it's a receipt 
of Cousin Jane's — and there's some 
mushrooms, although for myself I don't 
risk toadstools — not I. But there's 
them who set a store by mushrooms — 
and I do want everything just as nice as 
can be. And, of course, there's nearly 
every kind of vegetables, and I took a 
sort of liberty. Ezra always said my 



pumpkin pie was something extra. I 
made the pie yesterday — thought that 
even a professional would be glad of the 
help. And—'* 

"What in the world!" broke in the 
astonished girl, now certain that her 
former suspicions of the interior of the 
curl-bedecked head was correct. "I 
don't — I can't understand. I came 
early so that I could try the tone of your 
piano — I often find it important." 

"Piano!" gasped Mrs. Wallace, press- 
ing the glittering hands to what was now 
a really distracted head. 

"To be sure," said Brook. "Didn't 
you engage me to sing at your recep- 
tion?" 

"To sing!" exclaimed Mrs. Wallace. 
The words told of infinite confusion of 
mind. 

"I must get right away," thought 
Brook. "After coming way out here 
and giving up an afternoon it will be 
hard to lose my pay — but I m_ust make 
an excuse and get out of this house. At 
any moment the madness of that woman 
may take a dangerous turn." 

With her hands pressed to her head, 
Mrs. Wallace gazed at Brook, lowering 
her gaze to take in the girl's gown and 
the music roll. Suddenly she sank into 
a chair, her puzzled face comically chang- 
ing from stupefaction to wrinkles of 
laughter. 

"Oh, dear, oh, dear!" she cried, as she 
wiped her eyes with the beflowered 
gown which she lifted, her voice muffled 
with her chokings. "If I'd had the eyes 
of a clam I might have seen it. But I 
thought professional cooks were all like 
that — though, my dear, I did think 
you were much too pretty to potter with 
pots and pans!" 

"Cooks?" asked Brook. But with 
the word a sudden illumination as to the 
supposed madness of Mrs. Wallace al- 
most choked her own voice. "So you 
thought I was a professional cook? 
That was the reason why those women 
at the station looked daggers at me!" 
(Continued in October) 



Work and Wages vs. Years 



By Alice Whitaker 



IF a woman over fifty years of age 
loses her home and finds it im- 
perative to earn her living, it becomes 
not so much a question of what she 
would like to do as what the world 
needs. Hence she is likely to criticise 
the labor market, for as a rule the middle- 
aged woman has been a jack-at-all- 
trades. She Ijas worked for her family 
faithfully with an eye to saving a penny 
by making a dress, trimming a hat or 
making the boys' blouses. She has 
cooked and served, and not hesitated to 
stand an hour or two at the ironing 
table. She has upholstered a chair, 
written items about her church and 
club for the local paper, and, perhaps, 
made out bills and reports to help her 
husband in his work at the end of the 
month. 

It is painfully true that after their 
accustomed tasks are gone and friends 
and kin have fallen by the way, women 
of advanced years may "close ranks", 
but they often find it difficult to keep 
step. One who says *'I can turn my 
hand at anything" is sometimes sur- 
prised to learn that her versatility is a 
drawback to securing a situation. Those 
who specialize are apt to monopolize 
most kinds of work, so it follows that 
every woman, as the years go by, should 
give careful attention to what she can 
do best and lose no opportunity to 
gain a little more information and 
practice in that particular line. 

When considering what to do, it is a 
good plan to study advertisements in 
a large daily paper and note the number 
of women who wish to be * 'companions 
with no objection to traveling," or want 
literary or musical positions or anything 
that is not manual labor. Turning to 
the requests for workers, the inference is 
plain that the necessities of life rank 
first. Most fascinating tales are told 



in print of how women are making 
money in novel and pleasant ways, yet 
little is said of the hard work and per- 
severance required to bring about 
success. Sometimes a paying venture is 
short-lived, because imitators spring up 
or because the demand, once supplied, 
is never renewed. 

The woman in the country is far 
better off than in the city, where the 
genteel poor are too numerous to at- 
tract interest and where competition is 
so keen. But wherever located the best 
thing for a women of advanced years 
seems to be the acceptance of the first 
respectable work offered, if within her 
strength, lest it be all that comes in 
her way. Although one might prefer 
to make pin-cushions for the ladies' 
exchange, it is more to the point to make 
pies and fishballs for the hungry. 

Canvassing may seem alluring, but to 
all except the very strong it is physically 
wearing, to say nothing of the mental 
and nervous strain of being refused a 
hearing where preceding door-to-door 
solicitors have already tried the house- 
wife's patience and taken her time. 

Resident manager of an apartment 
house is a city position that will give 
shelter in return for showing apartments, 
collecting rents and seeing that the 
premises are cared for properly by the 
janitor. This work requires tact and 
some business sense, but as it does not 
employ all the hours of a day there is a 
chance to supplement the income by 
sewing, for instance. 

Once in a while a little shop with 
living-room attached may be found in a 
locality where a small business can be 
done in dry goods and notions or a news- 
stand opened, if there are ways to 
secure stock with little capital. This 
sort of work comes quite naturally to 
many women who enjoy the coming and 



110 



WORK AND WAGES VS YEARS 



111 



going of patrons and the minor interests 
that take them away from their own 
thoughts and regrets. 

Now and then, there is an opportunity 
as working housekeeper for a group of 
teachers or women, employed during the 
day, who yet prefer having a home of 
their own to boarding. In such- cases the 
pay may not be large outside of food 
and room, because the cleaning and 
laundry will usually have to be paid for 
in addition. Such a position is often 
a most congenial one. 

If a woman of even seventy years is 
gifted with a faculty for turning off 
fine hand sewing, and has good sight to 
do it, there is some call for her work, 
but she must keep everlastingly at it to 
get a dollar a day. If she can supple- 
ment a trained nurse, she may pick up a 
case here and there ; if she can cook well 
and is willing to go into another's 
kitchen, she will soon find a place, but 
is not likely to have strength to do the 
work required of women in regular 
domestic employment. Therefore, in all 
but exceptional cases her wages will be 
small in addition to the home furnished. 



If an employer is younger than her- 
self, it is sometimes irritating to submit 
to orders which savor of inexperience, 
and yet the younger person may be 
more in touch with present-day condi- 
tions. It is better to wait the time for 
asserting individual opinion until some 
emergency rises. 

Reviewing all the kinds of work open 
to the woman of advanced years, there is 
little that brings over a dollar a day. 
If she can get room rent included, or 
part of her meals where she works, the 
dollar-a-day job will keep her going, 
but if she must pay ever so small 
room rent and do light housekeeping, 
it means shortened life from the con- 
stant strain. 

One of the most important things 
to be remembered by the woman seek- 
ing work is that she has reached the 
time to put false pride in her pocket, 
also to keep her own story of trial and 
sorrow to herself. Others of her own 
age have had their share of trouble and 
disappointments and the young will not 
escape. Dwelling on the past is certain 
to prejudice an employer adversely. 



Nature's Appeal! 



Lowering clouds like bold battalion 

Spread o'er nature's forest realm, 
And a stifling, deathly silence 

Man and beast alike o'erwhelm, 
Casting mystic, lurid shadows 

Of the monarchs, stem and grim, 
Not a rustle 'mongst their branches, 

Not the swaying of a limb! 



Beats the rain on rocking branches 

With unceasing, rapid patter, 
Each drop vying, charging, scurrying 

Like a squadron's horsehoof clatter, 
'Till the trees, distorted, shaken 

With the fury of the rain, 
'Neath the wild torrential fury 

Creak and quiver as in pain! 



Of a sudden comes a murmur 

As from out the mountain side— 
Treetops bend and sway and stagger. 

Mockingly the winds preside; — 
And the murmur, loud and louder 

Marches on in angry glee. 
Boding waste and desolation 

Far as human eye can see! 



Thunder shakes the terra firma, 
Lightnings blur the angry sky, 
Nature trembles from exertion 
And the terror stricken cry: 
"God have mercy! Spare and pardon, 
Henceforth doubt shall never win. 
Life shall have a sacred meaning, 
Faith and works replace each sin!" 

Caroline Louise Sumner. 



Weather to Order 

By Helen Forrest 



CHICKEN salad and lettuce sand- 
wiches. 
Olives. 

Fozen pudding, 

Fruit punch in big bowl kept filled. 

Make salad and sandwiches early. 

Frozen pudding from confectioners. 

Have everything ice-cold. 

Awaiting further orders, 
We are 
Very truly yours — ' ' 

Anna Sayre gazed blankly at what 
she had written, then burst into a ring- 
ing peal of laughter that caused her 
little maid in the brand-new kitchen to 
smile sympathetically into the dish pan. 

"Just as funny a mix-up as this divert- 
ing transition of mine," and for lack of 
a more comprehending audience Mrs. 
Sayre addressed her shinii;ig wedding 
ring: 

*'Here am I, for six years a business 
woman, precipitated, in my twenty- 
eighth year, into the social zone, making 
out a warm-day menu for a lot of frilly, 
bridge-playing guests, and from sheer 
force of habit I've done my work in 
shorthand and closed it with the 
customary valediction of my late place 
of business." 

The trim lines of curves and dashes 
were displeasing to Anna Sayre, late 
stenographer and typewriter, — they 
did not belong on her new mono- 
grammed paper ; they should not rest on 
her highly polished little mahogany desk 
where her forsaken Remington could 
have found no room. 

Trim and erect was the figure of the 
bride, clear and direct the gaze of her 
dark eyes out through the open window 
resting lightly on her bed of nodding 
daffodils, to the quiet, well-kept sub- 
urban street so blissfully free from the 
din of traffic. 

Ten weeks ago today she had closed 



her desk in the private office of the big 
firm in town, closing, with it, the six 
years of her career as a business woman. 
Out on the Old Church Road, a few 
blocks from this new home of hers, was 
the house where her girlhood was spent, 
where her father's death had left her 
surprised and terrified in her grief by the 
fact that she must earn her own living. 
With her father and home suddenly 
gone, out of the care-free rush of her 
debutante year, away from her girl 
friends, away from Billy, into a school to 
learn shorthand and stenography. 

And she had made good in that 
matter-of-fact world; she was glad to 
remember that, before Billy had brought 
her back to her home town into the old 
set. It was Billy, who had never lost 
track of her, Billy, who had given her 
these ten best weeks of her life. , Billy — 
bless him! whose hat was on the rack in 
the hall, whose stick was in the umbrella 
stand, whose pipe was on the table — 
Billy, who had brought her home. 

It was good of the girls to take her 
right back into the Club from which she 
had shakily resigned seven years before, 
and how natural it seemed to be planning 
to entertain them. Had those years set 
her apart from those friends of her girl- 
hood, whose ways had lain only in the 
trodden paths of society? Surely, she 
was richer for her experience and no one 
of them could guess her joy in her home, 
since no one of them had been homeless. 
They could not know her happiness in 
belonging to some one, for they had never 
been alone. And how those years of 
economical living were helping her now 
in bridging the distance from the un- 
wisely lavish life of her girlhood home to 
the modest menage of her new abode. 
There was positive inspiration in the 
fact that here was work for hands as well 
as head. 



112 



WEATHER TO ORDER 



113 



And now, for Billy's sake and her own, 
there must be no lack in the club meet- 
ing for tomorrow. "Two eats and a 
drink' ' — she had observed since her 
return, that the rule was, as ever, liber- 
ally construed in the club refreshments. 
Strict business rules did not obtain here. 

The early May weather felt like July. 
How hot the office in town must be, and 
her ice-cold refreshments would surely 
be popular. 

And now her business training was 
again to the front as she made out the 
schedule for her social tomorrow : 
9 to 11. 

Prepare refreshments. 

Bone chickens, already cooked. Mix 
salad according to recipe. 

Make mayonnaise. 

Make lettuce sandwiches and wrap 
in damp cloth. 

11 to 12. 

Make the house pretty and arrange 
tables. Get out china. 

12 to 12:30. 
Early luncheon. 

12:30 to 1:00. 

Be lazy. 

1 : to 2 :30 

Mayonnaise on salad. 

Olives and fruit-punch, chilling before 
final ice. 

Get dressed. 

The last item was pleasing, for her 
carefully chosen trousseau frocks had 
been really satisfying. 

The business side of her nature being 
attended to by the orderly plan, the 
feminine in her relaxed in pure enioy- 
ment of the warm spring wind, and in 
the still novel fact of leisure. 

"Eleven o'clock!" she smiled, "and not 
a blessed thing that I have to do until I 
choose to be busy. Thank goodness, 
my party tomorrow is planned beyond 
chance of mishap!" 

But alas for Anna's hopes! 

"The best laid plans of mice and men 
Gang aft agley." 

A chilling east wind had swept in from 
the ocean during the night, a dishearten- 



ing rain beat upon the windows as the 
hostess waked to the day of her party. 
Ruefully she looked from the dripping 
windows, which were to have been 
widely opened to the spring air, then 
gasped audibly over the coffee pot, 
having then reached the breakfast table, 
at the thought of her refreshments. 

"My dear girl! What in the world is 
the matter?" her Billy exclaimed in 
genuine alarm. 

"Just the eats!" she answered with a 
touch of school-slang. "My first party 
is tottering on its throne! You see, my 
husband, I reckoned unwisely that the 
too warm weather of the past week was 
to continue. Now see what happens; 
imagine salad, frozen pudding, fruit- 
punch — all cold as ice on a day when 
every one will be shivering at the 
sudden change of the weather!" 

"Change your order; that's easy," 
said her lord and master; "give 'em 
something hot — anything will do. 
They're coming to play cards, anyway, 
and not for lunch." 

"How can I change?" Inherdilemma, 
she ignored his idea that a card club met 
only to play cards; "all this chicken was 
cooked yesterday. I have quantities of 
lettuce for sandwiches, and I ordered 
my frozen pudding from the confectioner 
days ago. I shouldn't care so much, if 
I w^ere not anxious to prove to the girls 
that my years out of all this haven't 
made me forget how to do things right." 

The wedding-present clock in the 
living-room struck the half hour, and her 
commuter husband, with a hasty good- 
bye kiss, rushed for his coat and hat. 
Stopping at the open door, in the face of 
the rain, he flung back a word of cheer. 

"Make a fresh deal in your food and 
get what you w^ant; the damage is to 
me," and he was off. 

Over the remnants of the breakfast, 
Anna faced her demoralized plans. 

"Cream the chicken in patty shells! 
No, it doesn't match the rest! Change 
the whole plan as Billy suggested ? ' ' Her 
economic soul denied the right to waste 



114 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



her carefully provided materials, the 
lettuce-hearts, the expensive new-laid 
eggs, the very strawberries that were 
to float rosily in the punch. 

"Nine o'clock, my schedule is on," 
and she walked resolutely into the 
living-room in search of her day's plan 
of action. 

"Shall I lay a little fire in the grate, 
ma'am, or would you have a little blaze 
in the furnace? Sure it's cold." The 
caressing voice of her maid broke in on 
her revery. 

The oracle had spoken. 

"If the mountain won't come to 
Mohamet, Mohamet must go to the 
mountain. Thank you, Mary;" the 
bride smiled gayly on her puzzled 
domestic. "By all means, a good fire 
in the furnace and lay fires in both fire- 
places — we'll light them before three 
o'clock. And now for the kitchen. ' ' 

The Thursday Afternoon Bridge Club 
prides itself on being prompt. At three 
o'clock Anna was welcoming to her 
pretty new home "the girls" to whom 
she had returned after her little journey 
into the busy world. 

A cheerful warmth met her guests; 
bright fires burned in the fireplaces and 
content reigned in the heart of the 
hostess, pink of cheek and bright of eye, 
in her new spring gown. What mat- 
tered the weather ? Cold wind and rain 
might do their worst, outside, within was 
summer heat. The house was a trifle 
overheated, perhaps, but how very 
popular was the great cut-glass punch 
bowl in the hall, where lemon and pine- 



apple juice mingled with the acid of the 
fresh strawberries made so refreshing a 
cold drink. 

"What lovely eats, Anna!" — "I'll be 
afraid to entertain you, you extravagant 
child!" "How good everything tastes!" 
and thus ran the enthusiastic comments 
through the cool chicken salad, the crisp 
lettuce sandwiches, the olives from their 
bed of clinking ice, down to the last 
grateful bit of frozen pudding. 

"How did you manage?" Billy Sayre 
divested himself of his moist raincoat 
before he presumed to approach his 
radiant wife; "you've been on my mind 
all day; but if ever I saw a girl who didn't 
look as if she needed sympathy — " he 
was in the bright room now and his 
words ended abruptly. 

"Why, Billy, you poor boy," she 
answered, "did you worry? If her 
friends may be believed, your wife 
covered herself and you with glory. I 
had my cold eats just as I had planned, 
and since I couldn't very well change 
them to suit the weather, I changed the 
weather to suit them. Believe me, Billy, 
whatever the weather outside, it was 
summer here. Thanks to furnace and 
open flres the house was so thoroughly 
heated that my ice-cold food and drink 
was exactly what everybody wanted. 
And now that the party is over we'll 
open some of the windows and cool 
things off a little. I've saved some 
samples of everything to add to your 
dinner, but you won't have more than 
a bite of the club lunch, Billy, for they 
loved it and ate up nearly every bit." 



August 



Earth sleeps beneath the torrid sun, 
And brazen heavens bend above. 

Even the robins, one by one, 

Have hushed their Springtime songs of love 

And every flower with drooping head 

Bends listless, in the garden bed. 



Then darkness falls, a spirit kind, 

And soft winds blow through parching trees; 
The stars shine down like gems, new mined, 

And dews lie sweet upon the leas. 
And every blossom lifts her head 
In meadow plot and garden bed. 

L. M. Thornton. 



Phyllis Provides 

By Aldis Dunbar 



YOU'VE read Tlashers Mead,' 
haven't you?" asked my pretty 
young cousin abruptly. "That 
new story by Compton Mackenzie?" 

As the question popped out in the 
middle of an absorbing discussion of the 
relative prices of sheet-and-curtain 
materials for her new nest, I looked up 
at Phyllis in surprise. 

"Why, yes. But why?" 

"Because it just came over me that, 
when it comes to furnishing my kitchen 
and the shelves of my pantry, I'll be 
like the dreamy young poet in the story, 
who took a house in the country so he 
could write his poems there, and was so 
puzzled about pots and pans that he 
went to an auction in the neighborhood 
and bought the entire contents of some- 
body else's kitchen, to be on the safe 
side. There were so many enormous 
dish-covers that he hid them in the 
spare bedroom, to get them out of the 
way. Of course, Granny taught me to 
cook, but in her dear old kitchen, as well 
as in every other one I've ever been in, 
there seemed so many things that I 
wouldn't need, when Jack and I are just 
beginning. And the lists in cook-books, 
meant to help, don't have any meaning 
to me, when I read them over. Why, 
at home in Granny's kitchen were pans 
and kettles and things, tucked away at 
the back of cupboards and shelves, that 
she hardly ever used. But she never 
discarded them." 

I laughed.. "Almost every house- 
keeper of long experience has one or 
more 'fetiches' like those. My mother's 
first housekeeping was in a tiny fur- 
nished cottage just vacated by the 
owners, who had prospered and built a 
larger home for themselves. One day 
Mrs. S. came flying in, begging for 
her especial iron sponge-cake pan. 
They hunted for it together, and to 
Mother's consternation, it proved to be 



the old one she had taken to use as 
drip-pan under the refrigerator! It 
was half-full of melted ice, and rusty 
around the edges; but Mrs. S. seized it 
with joy, and wouldn't hear of Mother's 
buying her a new one, in place of it. 
She declared that, rust or no rust, no 
other pan could give the perfect result, 
and she bought Mother a new drip-pan, 
instead!" 

"Well," Phyllis told me, "a young 
couple Jack knew boasted that they 
moved into a perfectly empty flat, and 
bought each single thing as they needed 
it. And they had to cook their first 
beefsteak on a new tin dustpan, because 
the stores were closed when that need 
presented itself! Now, isn't there some 
more practical way of deciding before- 
hand what is really necessary to begin 
with, — both in the way of kitchen 
ware and of the staple provisions for our 
^ first stocking of the pantry?" 

"Why, yes," I said. "Pencil, paper, 
and a good clear imagination will solve 
the question as well as any expert could 
do it for you, if you use them with 
brains." 

"And the cook-book lists, and the 
hardware and grocery catalogues?" 
questioned my little bride-to-be, as she 
cleared a space for writing materials on 
the table and looked up -expectantly. 

I shook my head. "Not when one 
knows already how to cook, as you do. 
We'll simply follow the example of 
Jack's friends, and move in off-hand. 
Here we are in your new home-kitchen. 
It's bright and sunny, and it's new, but 
it needs just a trifle of cleaning. Set to 
work, Phil. What do you need for 
getting it spandy neat?" 

"Broom, dustpan and brush, scrub- 
bing brush, cleaning-cloths, soap, scour- 
ing powder," she began, her pencil flying. 

"And what do you do the washing 
witkV I inquired. 
15 



116 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



She looked puzzled. "Why — with 
water! Oh, I see! I want a pail!" 

"Precisely. And a soap-dish, to hang 
above the sink. Don't you find the sun 
pretty strong?" 

"Shades, — good washable ones!" was 
her terse reply. 

"Exactly. Now that we're clean, 
you can take your time deciding on floor 
covering. Table and two chairs you 
have. At present, you are going to get 
your first breakfast. What will it be? 

Phyllis 's cheeks grew very pink, but 
she went at the menu very seriously. 

"Coffee, quick biscuit — as there 
wouldn't have been time for me to have 
set and baked bread or rolls so early in 
the day, — cereal, bacon and omelet or 
poached eggs! Will that do?" 

I nodded. "Light the fire first." 

"So I do! Coal, kindling, matches, 
shovel, scuttle, lid-lifter ; brush and black- 
ing and mitten to use when I clean it." 

"Well done!" I applauded. "What 
will you need for making coffee?" 

"Mocha and Java mixed, mill to 
grind it, cup and spoon for the measur- 
ing, coffee-pot, egg for settling, and — ^I 
didn't forget — a big white enamelled 
tea-kettle, just come to boil." 

"And for the cereal?" 

"Little agate-ware milk-boiler with 
double copper bottom, like Granny's, to 
make it in ; cereal itself, salt and a spoon 
to stir it with." 

"Biscuit next." 

"Flour, shortening, baking-powder, 
salt, milk, and a pinch of sugar." 



"Make them and show me!" I 
ordered. 

"Yes'm!" She set to work in panto- 
mime. "Mixing-bowl, flour-bin, sifter, 
baking-board, baking-pan, rolling-pin, 
biscuit cutter, another big spoon (I 
greased the pan before I began, Cousin 
Vin), holder to take the pan from the 
oven when the biscuits are golden brown 
and puffy. Butter to eat with them, 
and perhaps — honey!" 

"Next!" 

"Pan for bacon, knife to trim it with, 
little board to trim it on. Saucepan for 
poaching eggs, skimmer to take them 
out. Perhaps I'll have a regular egg- 
poacher, but I won't need it, at first. 
If I make omelet instead, I'll want a cup 
for breaking eggs — I'd want it anyway, 
wouldn't I? — and another bowl, and 
an egg-beater or a fork. Oh, and a dust 
of black pepper. I said salt, before." 

"And you already have china and 
linen and silver. But how about clear- 
ing up, after breakfast?" 

"A tray. Mum, and a big dishpan, — 
mop and brushes and soap-shaker, — 
better make it two trays, — a wire 
drainer and plenty of hot water and 
clean towels." 

"You see the idea, then?" I asked. 

Phyllis nodded. "And I'll cook the 
meals for a week — on paper — to be 
sure that I don't leave out anything. 
Why, any one could make out their 
necessary lists that way, Cousin Vin." 

"Any- one — who could cook — with 
brains!" I amended. 



Simplified Bungalow Life 

By Anna B. Classon 



SUMMER vacationing has under- 
gone a radical change within the 
past few years. Summer hotel 
life, with its stereotyped pastimes of 
boating, fishing, porch gossip and hand 
embroidery, has given place to the 
larger freedom of all sorts of country 



home life, individually chosen and 
individually maintained. In response 
to this "New Thought" in vacationing, 
the bungalow has sprung up far and 
near, with its corner stone of simple 
life and its troop of week-end visitors. 
But, withal, we have not progressed 



SIMPLIFIED BUNGALOW LIFE 



117 



beyond the truism voiced by Bulwer 
that ''civilized mail cannot Hve without 
cooks," so we still have the troublesome 
problem of food. Now, genuine bunga- 
low life with a corps of servants is as 
impossible as it is absurd. Here, if 
anywhere, is a sanctum where the elect 
should dwell together in harmony and 
where each should have a part. But — 
three meals a day — seven days in a 
week — four weeks and a bit more in 
the summer months, making a grand 
total of one hundred and two meals in 
July and August! Approached math- 
ematically this is appalling and cal- 
culated to strike terror to the heart of 
the most ardent vacationist, but ap- 
proached in the true holiday spirit 
there surely is a way out. But how shall 
we manage it? Co-operation is the 
passport from beginning to end, my 
dear. "No drones in this hive" might 
well be placed over the door, and 
voluntary help expected from family 
and friends. It takes a bit of the 
genius of discrimination, at first, to in- 
vite the right sort of guests, if there are 
to be guests, but one or two misfits will 
educate wonderfully. 

It might sound very alluring to start 
out with the intention of doing the 
family cooking in an iron kettle hung 
on a crane over the open fire, but put 
such a temptation far behind you, as 
it is full of pitfalls. Spend your en- 
thusiasm in that direction by now and 
then roasting a meal of potatoes in the 
hot ashes on the hearth of a rainy day. 
Remember that light housekeeping does 
not always fit heavy and healthy ap- 
petites. It is, therefore, well to equip a 
bungalow with enough kitchen machin- 
ery to do the average cooking of the 
average family in the quickest and 
easiest way. Beyond this avoid all 
"frills," for unnecessary utensils are a 
nuisance. An up-to-date oil stove with 
several burners and a portable oven is 
a necessity to do comfortable cooking, 
even where the family is very small. 
To prove this positively try preparing 



a hot soup and a cup of tea over a one- 
burner stove, of a chilly summer even- 
ing, and see how persistently the one 
gets cold while the other gets hot! 

No matter if the baker comes to 
your door twice a day, possess yourself 
of an oven. A multitude of nice, easy 
dishes can be prepared with its help, 
and, ah! the surprise of, now and then, a 
homemade pie coming from its depths. 
By no means let the pie be taken for 
granted and come trooping in at the 
end of a heavy meal, where it illy 
belongs, but rather elect it to be the 
honored dish at a simple meal, and it 
goes without the saying, that as such it 
must be par excellence. 

A fireless cooker, one of the many 
improved sort, is a great saver of time 
and money and belongs to bungalow 
life. Remember, however, since it is 
"fireless", it presupposes some other 
fire apparatus. It has a broad scope, 
but like the rest of us it has its limita- 
tions. 

A chafing dish, screened from draughts, 
is convenient. By its use and a few 
deft strokes a hot meal can be served 
impromptu in living room or porch, 
transforming the often questionable 
porch supper into a grateful feast. 
Many people with treacherous digestions 
find it difficult to manage an entire meal 
of cold food even in summer. 

Possessed of these three cooking 
appliances you have a right to com- 
mand success with minimum of labor, 
and if you have what the New England 
woman calls "gumption", you will get it. 

If there is an ice supply at hand, an 
easy working ice cream freezer will do 
its part almost as magically as the 
"fireless" in preparing acceptable dishes. 
Remember, however, in the choice of 
one, that a small amount of cream may 
be frozen in a medium-sized can, but 
that the order can never be reversed, 
therefore it is well to get an extra pint 
or quart capacity for the unexpected. 

Now for the preparation of these 
(Continued on page 158) 



118 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renev/al 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership and manageme^it as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912^ 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

Business Manager's: R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 
Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter. 

Face the Sunshine 

Oh, turn and face the sunshine, brother, 

Look, the sky is aglov^ 
Jevi^elled with ruby and amethyst 

Ablaze on a field of snow. 
The day is fair before you, 

Its promise ever new. 
If you keep the joy of the sunrise 

Ashine in the heart of you. 

Oh, turn and face the sunrise, brother, 

Look, there's a bird's light wing 
Mounting straight to the far blue Heaven, 

A joyous caroling thing. 
Greet the new day, my brother, 

With courage fine and strong. 
And the glorious chant of a day well spent 

Shall be your evening song. 

Christine Kerr Davis. 



VOLUME TWENTY-ONE 

OUR attention, just now, is called to 
the fact that we are renewing no 
inconsiderable number of subscriptions 
for the twenty-first time. This means 
that we have on our list the names of 
subscribers who have taken the maga- 
zine from its first issue in June 1896 to 
the present time. Many of these, no 
doubt, have in their possession twenty 
volumes of a culinary publication, each 
volume of which holds a complete 
index of its contents. Twenty volumes 
on a single book-shelf — a treatise on 
domestic science — a work of reference 
of no secondary importance and value. 
We are not aware that any other period- 
ical of like class and character can be 
found in America. Certainly here is a 
record somewhat worthy of pride and 
sentiment. 

In two decades "American Cookery" 
has never sought after or advocated 
"fads" in cookery; nor has it boasted of 
any standardization of foods. At the 
same time, however, it has ever aimed 
to be progressive in conduct and helpful 
to housekeepers everywhere, confidently 
feeling that nothing was too good to set 
before its readers and patrons. The 
special feature of this magazine is its 
reliability and entirety of interest. 

COMMENCEMENT EXERCISES 

IN June the graduating classes from 
all our schools and colleges were very 
large. The baccalaureate sermons and 
discourses on this occasion were filled 
with excellent advice and encourage- 
ment to young graduates. 

At Smith College, Northampton, 
Mass., Governor Whitman of New York 
delivered the commencement address to 
a class of 331 young women. 

Among other good things, he said: 
"You have come upon the stage of 
life when progress has demolished every 
barrier raised by tradition to prevent 
woman's full and free expression of her 
hopes, her ideals and her aspirations. 



EDITORIALS 



119 



"The fight for equal rights with men 
should not mean that women are to 
act like men. The masculinization of 
women is as vicious in its consequence 
as would be the feminization of men. 
What has been fought for is the right of 
women to be human beings, and as such 
to have the power to give the -best that is 
in them, just as it has been the right of 
man to show forth the best that is in 
him." 

Touching on the national situation and 
the world war, Governor Whitman said : 

''Preparedness is the dominant word 
in our country today. I think I make 
no mistake in declaring that the voice of 
the people is lifted in favor of some 
sound plan of national defence that will 
guard us alike against armed invasion 
or unbearable aggression. 

*T am well aware that women in- 
stinctively recoil from war and all that 
pertains to war. It must be borne in 
mind, however, that there is a death of 
the spirit that is more to be dreaded 
than the death of the body, and that 
life itself may be bought at a price that 
will make living a poor and dreadful 
thing. The glorious pages of his- 
tory are reserved for those who have 
died that great principles might live. 

''These are the shining truths that the 
women of today are asked to consider 
and accept. It is not meant that 
women should give over their abhorrence 
of wanton and brutal killing, but it is 
meant that they must not put mere ex- 
istence above the tremendous import- 
ance that gives existence its value. 

"As a matter of fact, however, the 
horror in which war is held by women 
may prove the wise and necessary bal- 
ance that the occasion demands. 
Women are peculiarly fitted to insist 
upon the maintenance of the sane me- 
dium between the extremes of pacifism 
and militarism. 

"There is no room in this world for 
the do-nothingness of pacifism. We 
must have war and we must have fight- 
ing and we must have courage. 



"Preparedness must be social as well 
as military, and not the least of the tasks 
of America today is to take stock and 
find out where the people stand with 
reference to themselves." 

Since the first college for women 
was established in the land, the process 
of events has been swift, indeed." 

DRUDGERY — A MEDITATION 

ONE day I quoted glibly, "I have 
the soul of a servant;" that was 
after a week's absorption in house- 
cleaning. Then I paused and thought: 
"I have not the 'soul of a seryant,' 
in the sense in which Shaw meant the 
word to be understood, or I should not 
have used the quotation." He uses the 
word servant in its definition of one in a 
state of subjection or bondage to the 
will or command of another. Therefore, 
one who can be made to do the menial, 
or mean, tasks of the household. 

For so many ages the menial tasks 
have been done by those "in a state of 
subjection or bondage" that we have 
come to think of such tasks as symbolic 
of bondage; hence that they are drudg- 
ery and not worthy to be given atten- 
tion or time by any but the unambitious 
and ignorant, or those who have had no 
opportunity for better things. 

When one gives the word servant 
its other definition, "One who serves," 
all idea of bondage may be removed and 
the so-called lowly tasks may be done 
without the sense of drudgery. A 
physician sterilizes his instruments that 
he may get them in the best possible con- 
dition to aid him in being of service to 
humanity. He does not feel that he is 
doing the menial task of dishwashing 
and that he is not being given an 
opportunity for the best expression of 
his talents, if he does not employ a 
maid to do the sterilizing. So a woman 
may wash dishes or do any other homely 
service and lose not one iota of her 
freedom, if she knows that the wash- 
ing of dishes, or whatever the task 
may be, is not the end, but the means, 



120 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of service. One may reach the point 
where she may do so disagreeable a 
task as to black the kitchen range with 
the feeling of an artist; and often with 
far more artistic results than the 
embroidering of roses on a pillow cover. 

Work that is too great a physical 
strain, or work that becomes monoto- 
nous through repetition is drudgery. 
This is often the case with the work of 
women, perhaps, especially those who 
live on farms. One could not black 
ranges day after day and feel joy in 
the work, because the blackening of 
ranges would be the end of service, and 
the imagination could not be released to 
see the work as only a means of getting 
one's tools in the best possible condition 
to prepare that food best adapted to 
increase the physical and mental activity 
of the whole family. If an artist were 
to paint picture after picture, without 
pause for rest and new inspiration, that 
would be as much drudgery as any 
menial task. Work done with the 
hands is just as important as any other. 
Clever fingers imply clever brains. 

No form of service is dinidgery, if the 
one who serves is free. All forms of 
service, mental or physical, are drudg- 
ery, if the one who serves is "in a state 
of bondage." Some one has said, 
"Spirituality is seeing God in common 
things and showing God in common 
tasks." 

This is my inspiration from my week 
of housecleaning. A. B. C. 

TO ECONOMIZE DIGESTION 

I INDIGESTION is often attributed to 
hasty eating, and people are reproved 
and rightly so, for bolting their food; but 
it is interesting to observe that while the 
bolting of meat is always severely 
censured, one never hears any blame 
attached to those who swallow fruit by 
the mouthful, and devour uncooked 
vegetables without any attempt at 
mastication. Nevertheless, it is the 



hasty swallower of vegetable fibre who is 
really the inciter of gastric rebellion. 
Vegetables are, at all times, very imper- 
fectly digested by the stomach, and re- 
quire their tough fibres to be thoroughly 
broken up by the teeth if they are to be 
dissolved even in the bowel. 

There is a well-known saying which 
avers that digestion waits upon appetite, 
and there is no doubt that of all the 
adjuvants to digestion a keen desire for 
food is the most powerful and impor- 
tant. But appetite itself often depends 
upon conditions which are independent 
of the body's absolute necessities. Thus 
the aspect of the food, its smell, taste 
and even the manner in which it is 
served, all help either to stimulate a 
desire for it, or to induce a sense of 
aversion, while the environment of the 
diner often exercises important influ- 
ence, beneficial or otherwise. Brain 
work of any kind interferes with the 
rapid digestion of food, and even the 
habit of reading during meal times, 
practised by so many, is conducive 
neither to appetite nor digestion. A 
well-lighted room, music and frivolous 
conversation will often permit a chronic 
dyspeptic to enjoy without remorse the 
pleasures of the table, while a depressing 
atmosphere, uncongenial company, and 
unappetizing dishes may induce a fit of 
indigestion in the most healthy in- 
dividual. — Food and Cookery. 



A Chicago violinist who gives concerts 
throughout the West was disappointed 
with an account of his recital. *T told 
your man," complained the musician to 
the editor, "that the instrument I used 
was a genuine Stradivarius, and there 
was not a word about it." Whereupon 
the editor said with a laugh: "That is 
as it should be. When Mr. Stradi- 
varius gets his fiddle advertised in my 
paper under two dollars a line, you come 
around and let me know." — Every- 
body's Magazine. 




t'^B 



BREAKFAST TABLE LAID FOR TWO, INDIVIDUAL FRUIT DISHES 



Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Hors D'oeuvres, Frivole 

TAKE medium-sized cucumber 
pickles, not too long pickled or 
too acid. Cut a slice from one 
side, that the finished article may 
stand level, then pare off the skin and 
scoop out the center to simulate a 
boat. Chop fine one cup of little- 
neck clams (to serve six or eight), 
carefully washed and dried, and mix with 
half a cup of shredded cabbage and 
half a cup of crisp cress leaves ; mix with 
two tablespoonfuls of chili sauce, four 
tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar, and a scant half 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika. 
Use the mixture to fill the pickle boats; 
serve, on a leaf of lettuce or romaine as a 
first course at luncheon or dinner. 

Jerusalem Fishballs 

Remove the skin from a four-pound 
cod or haddock, then take off the flesh. 
Cover the head, skin and bones of the 
fish with cold water, add two slices of 



onion, two cloves, and three or four 
slices of carrot, and let simmer half an 
hour. Pass the fish through a food- 
chopper or scrape the fiesh from the 
fibres with a sharp knife, then pound 
smooth in a wooden bowl. To the fish 
add a dozen blanched almonds, chopped 
and pounded smooth, a teaspoonful of 
salt, a tablespoonful of grated onion 
pulp and half a teaspoonful of pepper; 
and mix all together thoroughly. Shape 
into balls, rather smaller than an egg, 
and set them above the bones in the 
saucepan; cover and let cook twenty 
minutes. Remove the balls and let 
them become cold. Strain off the broth, 
of which there should be about one cup 
and a half. Beat the yolks of four eggs, 
add half a teaspoonful of salt and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, and 
dilute with three tablespoonfuls of the 
broth; mix and stir into the broth. 
Cook and stir over boiling water until 
the mixture thickens, then remove from 
the fire and gradually beat in the juice of 
one lemon and a half. When both 



121 



122 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sauce and fish are thoroughly chihed, 
roll the balls in the sauce and dispose on 
a serving dish, pour over the rest of the 
sauce and garnish the dish with parsley. 

Brook Trout with Bacon 

Clean and wash the trout, dry on a 
cloth and cut them crosswise in pieces 
about an inch long. Cut slices of 
choice bacon in pieces an inch long 
and run both on skewers, alternating 
fish and bacon. Dip in an egg, beaten, 
and diluted with its bulk of milk, then 
roll in sifted, soft, bread crumbs and 
fry in deep fat; drain on soft paper. 



cylinder shapes; roll in soft, sifted bread 
crumbs, cover with egg, beaten with its 
bulk of milk, and again roll in sifted 
bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Serve 
with hot peas or string beans, or with a 
green salad, or both. 

Eggs a la Messina 

Cover six eggs with boiling water, and 
let the dish stand, covered, where the 
water wiU keep hot without boiling, half 
an hour; reheat quickly to the boiling 
point; let boil one minute, then drain, 
cover with cold water and remove shells. 
Beat one egg, add a teaspoonful, each, 




CURRIED-FISH CROQUETTES 



Serve with slices of lemon and parsley 
branches. 

Curried-Fish Croquettes 

Melt one-third a cup of butter; in 
it cook a slice of onion until yellowed 
slightly; add half a cup of flour, one tea- 
spoonful of curry powder, one-third a 
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of paprika and stir and cook 
until blended, then add one cup of well 
seasoned fish-stock and one-third a cup 
of cream and stir until boiling; beat 
in one egg, well beaten, and when the 
egg is set, fold in one cup and a half to 
two cups of fish, cooked and separated 
into flakes. Turn onto a buttered dish, 
cover partially and when cold form into 



of olive oil and lemon juice or vinegar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of onion 
juice, salt and pepper and a tablespoon- 
ful of fine-chopped parsley. Roll the 
eggs in flour, cover completely with the 
egg-mixture, let drain a little, then roll 
in soft, sifted bread crumbs. Fry to a 
golden brown in hot fat. Drain on 
soft paper and dispose on a serving dish. 
While the eggs are boiling, melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook two 
tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper; 
add three-fourths a cup of strong (well 
reduced) beef broth or consomme and 
one-third a cup of well reduced tomato 
puree (cooked tomatoes pressed through 
a sieve and let simmer until thick), and 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



123 



stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful, 
each, of chopped chives and parsle3^ one- 
fourth a cup of stoned olives, cut in 
slices, and half a cup or more of sliced 
mushrooms (canned). If fresh mush- 
rooms be used, saute them in the butter 
before adding the flour, using three 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Pour the sauce 
over the eggs as soon as they are fried 
and drained, and serve at once. 

Breslauer Steak, Mushroom Sauce 

Pass through a food-chopper one 
pound, each, of veal from the round and 
fresh pork; add half a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful or more of 
pepper and one egg beaten light, and mix 
all together thoroughly. Form into the 
shape of a sirloin (Porterhouse) steak, 
or into individual portions. Keep the 
steak, in whatever shape it is made, as 
thick on the edge as in the center, to 
insure even cooking. Broil the steak 
over coals or gas or pan-broil in a hot 
frying pan. Melt three tablespoonfuls 
of butter; in it cook half a pound of fresh 
mushroom caps, peeled and broken in 
pieces ; add three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of pepper and stir until 
absorbed. Add a cup and a half of 
brown stock or water in which half a 
teaspoonful of beef-extract has been 
dissolved and stir until boiling; let 



simmer seven or eight minutes, then 
pour over or around the steak. If 
canned mushrooms be used, cut them in 
halves, lengthwise, and add to the sauce 
after it has boiled, but do not allow it to 
boil thereafter. 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Breton Style 

Make an incision in the knuckle 
(knee) end of a leg of yearling lamb and 
into it press a clove of garlic in which 
one or tAvo incisions have been made. 
Roast the joint as usual, basting with 
dripping or salt pork fat, and dredging 
with flour. Cook at the proper time a 
pint or more of green or dried red kidney 
beans. When the meat and beans are 
cooked, set the meat into the warming 
oven, and pour off the fat from the baking 
pan to leave about two tablespoonfuls 
in the pan; to this add the beans, 
drained from all liquid, and turn and 
shake them in the pan until they have 
absorbed all the browned juices in the 
pan. Serve the beans around the lamb. 
Potatoes may be omitted when serving 
beans. If brown sauce is to be made in 
the pan, shake the beans in a sauce- 
pan with two or three tablespoonfuls of 
the dripping poured from the pan, add- 
ing also a teaspoonful or more, each, of 
scraped onion-pulp and fine-chopped 
parsley. In both cases add salt and 
pepper as needed. 




ROAST LEG OF LAMB. BRETON STYLE 



124 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Ham Croutons 

Cut bread into slices one-fourth an inch 
thick and stamp out into rounds about 
four inches in diameter; spread the 
rounds with butter and then with cold 
boiled ham, chopped fine; above the ham 
set a very thin slice or slices of common 
factory cheese to completely cover the 
ham; dispose the rounds on a dripping 
pan and set into the oven to melt the 
cheese. Serve at once for a hearty dish 



water in which the ham was cooked and 
two cups of syrup from the spiced sweet- 
pickle jar and pour over the ham. Let 
bake about forty-five minutes, basting 
often with the liquid; sprinkle with 
rolled cracker crumbs and let cook again 
until the crumbs are browned a little. 
Serve hot with a hot sauce, or cold with 
a green salad. 

Sauce for Hot Baked Ham 

Cook three tablespoonfuls of fat 







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at luncheon or supper. Mustard may 
be mixed with the butter. 

Extract of Beef Croutons 

Prepare as the ham croutons, but use 
extract of beef in place of the ham. Dry 
cheese may be used, if it be grated 
instead of sliced. 

Baked Ham, Autumn Style 

If the ham be rather salt, let soak over 
night in cold water to cover; if mild 
cured, set at once to cook in cold water 
to cover. Heat slowly to boiling point, 
then cook at a gentle simmer between 
four and five hours. Let stand an 
hour in the water, then transfer to a 
rack in a baking pan; remove all the 
skin or leave a piece three or four inches 
in depth around the shank bone, cutting 
the edge in points. Mix one cup of the 



from the ham until the water has 
evaporated; add three tablespoonfuls of 
flour and half a teaspoonful of paprika 
and stir until absorbed, then add one cup 
and a half of the liquid with which the 
ham has been basted (freed of all fat), 
and stir until boiling ; add salt as needed 
and three tablespoonfuls of currant 
jelly and let simmer until the jelly is 
dissolved. 

Stuffed Tomato Salad 

Peel choice tomatoes, and cut out the 
centers to form cups. Let stand upside 
down in a cool place to chill. When 
ready to serve, fill with bits of the 
tomato, removed, and slices of French 
endive or heart-stalks of celery mixed 
with mayonnaise dressing, through which 
an equal bulk of "olive butter" has been 
mixed. Serve in nests of cress, pepper- 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



125 




SLICING PEELED TOMATOES LENGTHWISE FOR SANDWICHES 



grass or lettuce. Olive butter is pur- 
chased at 10 and 25 cents per bottle; it 
is fine-chopped olives mixed w4th a small 
quantity of fine-chopped pimientoes. 

Chicken Salad, 
Early Summer Style 

Mix one cup of fine-shredded (crisp) 
cabbage, one cup of chicken-breast cut in 
cubes, one-fourth a cup of watercress 
leaves, one-fourth a cup of small, tender 
string beans, cut in bits, with enough 
mayonnaise dressing to hold the in- 
gredients together. Shape in a compact 
mound on a serving dish; cover with a 
thin layer of mayonnaise; decorate with 
chopped egg-whites, sifted egg-yolks, 
and fine-chopped parsley, keeping each 
color distinct. 

Mayonnaise of Chicken, 
Summer Style 

Cut the breast of a cold, cooked 
chicken in half -inch cubes. Arrange the 
best of the outer leaves of a head of 
lettuce and cut them into narrow ribbons ; 
also cut a cooked beet into small cubes. 
Dispose a layer of the lettuce on a serv- 
ing dish and sprinkle over it part of the 
beet; on this lay the chicken and cover 
it with mayonnaise; above this dispose 
the rest of the lettuce and the beet. 
Wash and dry short stalks of cress and 
set these around the edge of the salad, 
alternating with quarters of hard- 
cooked eggs. Mix the salad before 
serving. 



Chicken Saute 

Separate a pair of spring chickens into 
pieces for serving; wash and dry, then 
roll in flour and set to cook in a cup or 
more of hot fat; let cook slowly to cook 
through, and when browned turn to 
brown the other side. Cut a red pepper 
and half a pound of mushroom caps in 
shreds and let cook in three tablespoon- 
fuls of clarified butter until the moisture 
is evaporated; add a cup and a half of 
cream and a half-teaspoonful of salt and 
pour over the chickens. Then serve at 
once. 



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TOMATO SANDWICHES 



125 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Tomato Sandwiches 

Cut bread in slices one-fourth an inch 
thick, and trim into such shape as de- 
sired. Spread the prepared bread with 
butter, then sprinkle on shredded cress 
and mustard leaves. Have ready some 
very thin slices of choice tomato (cut 
the peeled tomatoes lengthwise rather 
than crosswise of the tomato) seasoned 
with French dressing, and dispose these 
on the bread ; sprinkle with the prepared 
mustard and cress and cover with a 
second piece of bread; serve at once. 

Chicken Livers and Bacon 

If the slices of bacon are rather long, 
cut them in halves; have the livers 



let cook, turning the ears as browned, 
until browned on all sides; brush again 
with butter, dredge with salt and pepper 
and serve at once on hot plates. 

Stuffed Cucumbers 

Select cucumbers of the same size; 
pare, then cut them in halves, length- 
wise; with a teaspoon scoop out the seeds. 
Mix one cup, each, of chopped veal or 
chicken, a cup of fine, soft bread crumbs, 
one-fourth a cup of melted butter and 
salt and pepper to season; use to fill the 
cucumbers; set them into a buttered 
baking dish, pour in half an inch of hot 
white broth and let cook in the oven 
until the cucumbers are soft (about 
twenty minutes). Cream two table- 




GREENCORN WAFFLES 



washed and dried ; press skewers through 
a piece of liver (half a liver) , then through 
bacon, alternately, until the skewers are 
loosely filled. Let the two ends of the 
skewers rest on the edges of a baking 
pan, that the liver and bacon may drip 
in the pan. Let cook in a moderately 
hot oven about twenty minutes. The 
bacon should be crisp throughout but 
not dark in color. Serve on the skewers 
or push from the skewers to a hot serv- 
ing dish. 

Roasted Sweet Corn 

Brush freshly-picked-and-husked ears 
of sweet corn very lightly with melted 
butter, set side by side in the roasting 
pan under the flame of a gas stove and 



spoonfuls of butter; beat in two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper 
and stir into the liquid around the cu- 
cumbers. Add more broth if needed, 
the sauce should not be too thick. Serve 
from the baking dish. 

Greencorn Waffles 

Sift together one cup and one-fourth 
of flour, four and one-half teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. Beat the yolks of three eggs until 
thick and light colored ; add half a cup of 
greencorn pulp, half a cup of cream and 
one-third a cup of melted shortening and 
stir into the dry ingredients, fold in the 
whites of three eggs beaten very light. 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



127 



Bake at once on a hot, well-greased 
waffle iron. 

Buttercup Biscuit 

Sift together two cups of pastry 
flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
and half a teaspoonful of salt ; cut in one- 
fourth a cup of shortening. Beat one 
egg; add half a cup of milk and use in 
mixing to a dough. Knead slightly and 
roll into a sheet half an inch thick; cut 
into small biscuit and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Deviled Crusts for Soup 

Cut dinner rolls (yeast) in slices one- 
fourth an inch thick, spread with butter, 
shake over a very little cayenne pepper, 
then cover with grated Parmesan cheese. 
Set into a hot oven to melt the cheese. 
Lay a hot, folded napkin on a hot dish 
and on this set the prepared crusts. 
Serve at once with soup, preferably a 
clear soup. 

Peach Dumpling 

Butter a baking dish and fill it with 
peaches, peeled and cut in slices; 
sprinkle over them one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt and one-fourth a cup of 
boiling water. Sift together two cups of 
pastry flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder and half a teaspoonful of salt; 
work in one-fourth a cup of shortening 
and mix to a soft dough with milk (about 
three-fourths cup). Spread the dough 
over the prepared peaches and set into 
the oven to bake about half an hour 
or until well browned. Serve hot with 
cream and sugar, honey or syrup. 




PEACH DUMPLING 

Peaches, Windsor Style 

Make ready flat, round pieces of 
sponge cake, about an inch and a half 
thick, with one piece higher for the 
center of the dish and all a little larger 
around than the peaches; hollow the 
pieces of cake a little in the center, to 
take half a cooked peach ; fill the centers 
from which the stones were taken with 
marmalade, either plain, or mixed with 
chopped and browned almonds; set a 
second half-peach above, that the whole 
may look like a perfect peach ; brush over 
the outside of the peaches with white of 
egg, dredge with granulated sugar and 
set into a very hot oven to glaze the 
peaches. Remove to a serving dish. 
Have ready the syrup in which the 
peaches were cooked, reduced by cook- 
ing and cooled a little ; add a few drops of 
almond extract and half a teaspoonful 
of orange extract and pour around the 
cake. Serve hot or cold, preferably hot. 

Manhattan Ice Cream 

Pack vanilla ice cream and peach 
sherbet in brick-shaped molds; have ice 
cream on the bottom and top with the 
sherbet between. 




PEACHES, WINDSOR STYLE 



128 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




PRINCESS PUDDING, WITH AiARSmiALLOWS 
AND CHERRIES 

Peach Sherbet 

Boil one quart of water and two cups 
of sugar fifteen minutes; let cool and add 
one cup and a half of peach pulp and 
juice, half a cup of orange juice and the 
juice of one lemon, and freeze as usual. 

Ice Cream, Queen Style 

Line the bottom and sides of a mold 
with a thin layer of lemon sherbet ; inter- 
line the bottom with a layer of vanilla 
ice cream and over this spread a thin 
layer of sunshine strawberry preserves; 
over this a layer of vanilla ice cream, 
then preserves, again a layer of ice 
cream and finish with a thin layer of 
lemon sherbet. Pack in four measures 




PRINCESS PUDDING, IN STEMMED GLASS 



of crushed ice to one of salt, and let 
stand an hour or longer. 

Ice Cream Cup, Queen Style 

Dispose vanilla ice cream, lemon 
sherbet and strawberry preserves in 
long-stemmed glasses in layers; finish 
with a rosette of whipped cream and 
strawberry preserves. 

Princess Pudding, with 
Marshmallows and Cherries 

Soften half an ounce (one-fourth a 
package) of gelatine in one-fourth a cup 
of cold water and dissolve in one-half a 
cup of boiling water or cherry juice; add 
three-fourths a cup of sugar and stir until 
dissolved and cooled a little, then add 
half a cup of lemon juice. Set the 
mixture into ice and water and, when it 
begins to stiffen, gradually beat into it 
the whites of three eggs beaten very 
light. When the mixture is nearly firm 
enough to "hold its shape", fold in one 
cup of cooked cherries and one-fourth a 
pound of marshmallows cut into four 
pieces, each, and turn into a mold. 
When unmolded serve with cream and 
sugar or a soft custard made of a pint of 
milk, three egg-yolks and one-third a cup 
of sugar. Maraschino cherries may be 
used. 

Tomato Jam 

Peel ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves 
and press out the seeds. Boil two 
lemons until they are soft and the water 
is much reduced, then pound in a 
wooden bowl and press through a sieve. 
Allow half a pound of sugar and the 
lemon (strained) to each pound of 
tomatoes. Boil until smooth. Store 
in jars as marmalade. 

Raspberry Vinegar 

Cover one peck of raspberries with 
choice cider vinegar and let stand 
twenty-four hours, then strain through 
cheesecloth ; measure the juice and allow 
two cups (one pound) of granulated 
sugar to each pint of juice. Let boil 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



129 



twenty minutes, then store in sterilized 
cans or bottles as in canning fruit. To 
use, add as many tablespoonfuls as 
desired to each glass of water. 

Rice, Ristori Style 

Cut two or three slices of bacon into 
small squares; add a cup of new cabbage, 
chopped, cover and let steam half an 
hour over a slack fire; blanch half a 
cup of rice, by bringing it to a boil 
over a quick fire, in a quart or more of 
cold water, then drain and rinse in cold 
water. Add the rice to the bacon and 
cabbage with half a teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of paprika and two 
cups of rich, hot veal broth. Let cook 
until the rice is tender, adding more 
broth as needed. Turn into a hot 
serving dish, set a tablespoonful of 
butter in the center and sprinkle 
generously with grated cheese. 

French Cocoa Souffle 

Sift stale cake crumbs to fill a cup; 
add half a cup of milk and let them 
stand until the milk is absorbed ; add two 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one- 
fourth a cup of sugar and four table- 
spoonfuls of cocoa or grated chocolate. 
Mix all together thoroughly, then beat 
in the yolks of four eggs, beaten very 
light, and fold in the whites of four eggs 
beaten until very light. Turn into a 
buttered pudding dish; set dish on many 
folds of paper in a pc^n; surround with 
boiling water and let bake in a moderate 
oven until well puffed and firm. Serve 
at once with cream or a hot sauce. The 
souffle will bake in about twenty-five 
minutes. The water in the pan should 
not boil after the souffle is set into the 
oven. 

Elizabeth's Griddle Cakes 

Sift together one cup and a third of 
flour, one teaspoonful of soda and half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Beat two eggs; 
add one-third a cup of sour cream and 



two-thirds a cup of thick sour milk and 
stir into the dry ingredients. Bake, in 
small rounds, on a hot and carefully 
oiled griddle. The recipe calls for 
thick sour milk; with less acid milk, use 
half a teaspoonful of soda and a level 
teaspoonful of baking powder and beat 
the whites and yolks of the eggs 
separately, adding the whites last. 

Corn Bread, Country Style 

Sift together three-fourths a cup of 
cornmeal, half a cup of flour, one- 
fourth a cup of sugar and half a teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and soda. Beat one 
egg; add one cup of thick sour cream or 
one cup of thick buttermilk or sour 
milk and three tablespoonfuls of melted 
shortening and stir into the dry in- 
gredients. Bake in a shallow pan about 
twenty-five minutes. 

Dehcate Muffins 

Sift together one cup and a half of 
sifted pastry flour, two tablespoonfuls 
and one-half of granulated cornmeal, 
four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-third 
a cup of sugar ; add three-fourths a cup of 
milk and three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter and mix together thoroughly. 
Bake in a hot, well-buttered, iron 
muffin-pan about twenty-five minutes. 

Cream Cheese Salad 

This may be made with any variety 
of soft cheese, but is particularly good 
with Philadelphia cream cheese. To 
two of the latter cheeses, add two table- 
spoonfuls of cream, one pimiento, twenty- 
four olives and half a cup of blanched 
almonds — the pimiento, olives and 
almonds being chopped separately and 
exceedingly fine; mix all together thor- 
oughly with a wooden spoon, and press 
into a mold lined with parchment paper. 
When firm and chilled, unmold and cut 
in slices. Serve on crisp heart-leaves of 
lettuce with French dressing. 



Balanced Menus for Week in August 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Sliced Peaches 

Eggs Shirred in Tomatoes 

French Bread, Toasted 

Buttercup Biscuit Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal-and-Tomato Soup 

Young Chickens, Saute 

Corn Boiled on the Cob Summer Squash 

Endive and Cress, French Dressing 

Moist Gold Cake Peach Ice Cream 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin Potato Salad 

Buttercup Biscuit, Toasted 

Blueberries Tea 



Breakfast 

Puffed Wheat, Blueberries, Thin Cream 

Hamburg Steak 

French Fried Potatoes 

Whole Wheat Popovers 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Loin of Veal, Brown Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes Fried Egg Plant 

Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Peaches, Windsor Style 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Cheese Salad 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Apple Sauce Chocolate Cake 

Grape Juice 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Thin Cream 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Fried Potatoes, German Style 

Broiled Tomatoes 

Spider Corn Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Giblet Soup 

Ham Cooked in Fireless Cooker 

Swiss Chard Sweet Potatoes 

French Cocoa Souffl6 

Grape Juice Lemonade 

Supper 

Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Sliced Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Rye Bread and Butter (new rye flour) 

Orange Cookies Iced Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Sliced Peaches, 

Thin Cream 

vSalt Pork, Country Style, Cream Sauce 

Small Potatoes, Baked 

Green Corn Waffles, Orange Marmalade 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Veal Souffle, Mushroom Sauce 

Celery vStewed Tomatoes 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Peach vSherbet 

Moist Gold Cake 

Supper 

Cream of Corn Soup, Croutons 

Tomato Sandwiches 

Chocolate Cake 

Iced Tea 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Eggs Scrambled with Chopped Ham 

Baked Potatoes (small) 

Graham Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Sword Fish, Saute 

Potatoes Scalloped with Peppers 

Beets, Buttered 

Egg Plant — Creole Style 

Apple Pie Cottage Cheese 

Tea 

Supper 

Green Corn Custard 

Boston Brown Bread French Bread 

Sliced Peaches Lemon Queens 

Iced Tea 



Breakfast 

Baked Apples, Thin Cream 

Salt or Fresh Mackerel, Broiled 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

French Bread Toasted 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Stuffed and Baked Bluefish, 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Cucumbers 

French Dressing with Onion Juice 

Boiled Potatoes New Cabbage 

Peach Shortcake Iced Coffee 

Supper 

Extract of Beef and Cheese Croutons 

Cold Cauliflower, French Dressing 

Blackberries French Rolls 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Baked Apples, Thin Cream 

Chicken Livers and Bacon on 

Skewers 

Cornmeal Muffins 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Cream of String-Bean Soup 

Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked 

Summer Squash 

Sweet Corn, Roasted 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding, Cream 

130 



Supper 

Bluefish Salad 

Quick Yeast Rolls 

Chocolate Eclairs 

Iced Tea 



Balanced Menus for Week in September 



Breakfast 

Blackberries 

Spanish Omelet 

Grilled Sweet Potatoes 

Green-Corn Griddle Cakes 

Dry Toast Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup 

Forequarter Lamb, 

Steamed and Browned in Oven 

Boiled Potatoes, Scalloped Late Peas 

Romaine, French Dressing 

Individual Blackberry Shortcakes 

Supper 

Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes, 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Noisette Bread and Butter 

Graham Cracker Cakes Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk 
Salt Codfish Balls, Late Radishes 

Breakfast Corn Cake 

Yeast Rolls Baked Apples 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Corn Soup 

Filets of Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked, 

Egg Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes Cauliflower 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Apples Baked with Almonds 

Supper 

Succotash 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Sliced Eggs 

Sponge Cake Berries Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Bacon Broiled in Cream 

Baked Apples 

Bran Muffins Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Round Steak en Casserole 

(potatoes, onions, carrots) 

Tomatoes vStuffed with Mayonnaise of Celery 

Whole Wheat Bread Baked Pears 

Toasted Crackers 

Supper 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash 

Tomato Catsup 

Apple Sauce Gingersnaps 

Tea . 



Breakfast 

Melons 

French Omelet 

French Fried Potatoes 

Cinnamon Toast 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Ribs of Beef, Brown Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes Swiss Chard 

Chocolate Bread Pudding 

(currant jelly and meringue) 

Supper 

Stev/ed Lima Beans (fresh) 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Lettuce, Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Chocolate Marshmallow Cream Roll . 

Iced Tea 



Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Whole Milk 

Frizzled Dried Beef, Creamed, Toast 

Ehzabeth's Griddle Cakes 

Orange-and-Pineapple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cantaloupes 

Stewed Chicken Corn Fritters 

Sliced Tomatoes with Cress and Chives, 

French Dressing 

Apple Turnovers 

Cream Cheese, Saltines or Flakes 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Baked Paprika Potatoes 

Broiled Bacon 

Chocolate Gingerbread with Whipped Cream 

Cooked Berries Tea 



Puffed Rice, Whole Milk 
Creamed Codfish and Poached Eggs 
Small Potatoes, Baked 
Potato Doughnuts 

Grapes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Haddock, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Sliced Tomatoes and Onions, 

French Dressing 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Cauliflower 

Peach Dumpling, Hard Sauce 

Supper 

Oyster Stew Oyster Crackers 

New Pickles 

Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 

Whole Wheat Biscuit 

Grape Juice 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Creamed Haddock au Gratin 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Graham Muffins 

French Toast Honey 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Breslauer Steak, Mushroom Sauce 

French Fried Potatoes 

Egg Plant, Creole Style 

Celery 

Toasted Crackers 

Edam Cheese 
Half Cups Coffee 



Supper 

Spinach with Sliced Eggs 

Boston Brown Bread 

Stewed Crabapples 

Chocolate Marshmallow 

Cream Roll, 

Hot Chocolate Sauce 

Tea 



131 



Our Daily Bread, or Three Meals a Day 

By Janet M. Hill 



MONDAY (AUGUST) 

Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Thin Cream 

Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

Buttercup Biscuit Dry Toast (Graham Bread) 

Sliced Peaches 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal-and-Tomato Soup, Deviled Crusts 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Brown Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes 

Corn Roasted on the Ear 

Boiled Beets, Buttered 

Cream Cakes Strawberry Preserves 

Supper 

Green Corn Chowder, Browned Crackers 

Pickled Beets 

Cream Cakes 

Grape Juice Lemonade 

It is supposed that the veal loaf 
served at breakfast, was made on Satur- 
day and a portion left over. For this 
dish, purchase on Saturday a knuckle of 
veal weighing about five pounds. Re- 
move three pounds and a half of the best 
of the meat for the loaf (for recipe, see 
page 35 , June- July number) . Brown the 
bone with meat attached to it in a little 
hot fat, turning as needed to brown all 
sides; cover the bone with cold water 
and let simmer, uncovered, until the 
liquid has nearly evaporated; add water 
as before, and again let simmer until the 
liquid is well reduced, then add cold 
water, cover the dish and let simmer un- 
til the meat is tender. Remove the 
meat from the bone, if desired, and set 
the broth where it will chill quickly, then 
set aside in the refrigerator to remain 
until Monday. Monday morning we 
start out with a little veal loaf, cooked 
potatoes, graham bread and this soup 
stock as the cooked supplies on hand. 



If the breakfast hour be an early one, 
on Sunday night measure the dry in- 
gredients for the biscuit (for recipe see 
Seasonable Recipes) and sift them to- 
gether into the mixing bowl; add the 
required quantity of shortening, and 
make the baking pan ready for the oven; 
have the egg beater, the rolling pin and 
the biscuit cutter at hand; also slice the 
cold potatoes into the saucepan above 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and lay 
the table. 

In the morning, skim the milk, or, 
pour the cream from top of the bottle, 
■for the rice and the coffee; turn the rice 
upon an agate dish for reheating; slice 
the veal, also the bread for toast; mix the 
biscuit, cut the dough into rounds and 
let stand in the pan until the oven is at 
a proper temperature to bake. Make 
the coffee and cocoa; set the potatoes 
over the fire and stir to mix with the 
butter; add milk, cover and let simmer 
slowly; pare the peaches, slice and 
sprinkle lightly with sugar to keep them 
from discoloring. 

Watch the coffee, and after it has 
boiled from three to five minutes, move 
to a cooler part of the range. Add salt 
to the potatoes (half a teaspoonful to a 
pint), mix, and set where they will keep 
hot and yet not adhere to the bottom of 
the pan. Put the rice into the oven to 
remain two or three minutes. Fill the 
glasses with water, set the peaches, 
butter, cream, sliced meat, biscuits and 
rice in their appropriate places. After 
the rice has been eaten, remove these 
dishes and bring in the potatoes and 
coffee. 



132 



THREE MEALS A DAY 



133 



Preparing Dinner 

Immediately after breakfast, scrub 
the beets, being careful not to break 
off the roots or bruise the skin, lest 
flavor and color be diminished thereby; 
cover with cold water and set over the 
fire to boil until tender; replenish the 
boiling water when needed. 

Now (if coal be the fuel we use for 
cooking) is the best time to make the 
cream cakes, as the oven can be heated 
more quickly and with less coal than is 
possible later on in the day. 

An oven hot on the bottom is needed, 
if the cakes are to puff properly. The 
formula given in most modern cook 
books works well, but do not stint the 
beating of the mixture, as the eggs are 
added; butter is usually mentioned as 
the shortening, but other and cheaper 
shortening, if a little salt be added, will 
give just as good results. The cakes 
will bake in about twenty-five minutes; 
when done they will feel light as taken 
in the hand. Also look carefully at the 
sides of the cakes as, if not well -browned 
over the whole surface, they will settle. 
In making the filling, cook the flour and 
part of the sugar at least ten minutes in 
the hot milk before the eggs are added. 
The full recipe will provide generously 
for dinner and supper and, also, for the 
children's lunch after school. 

One hour and a half before the dinner, 
remove and discard the caul (an inner 
fatty membrane commonly wrapped 
around a leg of lamb to keep it clean) 
from the lamb, also remove any super- 
fluous fat that may be present. Rub 
half a teaspoonful of salt and two table- 
spoonfuls of flour into the flesh ; put the 
joint on a rack in a baking pan and set 
to cook in a hot oven. Heat some fat 
from the top of the soup kettle or from 
fat salt pork, and in ten minutes use to 
baste the meat; turn the joint, baste the 
other side and return to the oven. Let 
cook ten minutes ; then reduce the heat 
and let cook one hour and a half, basting 
each ten minutes with hot fat. When 



half-cooked, turn the joint. After the 
meat has been in the oven half an hour, 
pare the potatoes, cover with boiling 
water and let cook ten minutes, drain 
and set on the rack around the meat. 
When basting the meat, baste the pota- 
toes also. 

After the meat and potatoes are in the 
oven, remove the fat from the dish of 
stock, and wipe with a cloth wrung out 
of hot water to take up any last particles 
of fat. To three cups of cooked toma- 
toes, add two stalks of celery or an equiv- 
alent of celery leaves, an onion, peeled 
and sliced, and three or four branches of 
parsley; let simmer twenty minutes and 
press through a sieve fine enough to 
exclude the tomato seeds. Add the 
veal stock with salt and pepper as 
needed, and heat to the boiling point. 
Skim and it is ready to serve ; or it may 
be kept hot, without boiling, until 
needed. For the crusts to serve with 
the soup, see the Seasonable Recipes. 

Ten minutes before serving the dinner, 
set the meat and potatoes into the 
warming oven. Pour off the fat from 
the roasting pan, add a cup and a half 
of water to the pan and let simmer to 
dissolve in it the browned meat-juices 
and flour in the pan. Heat three 
tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan; add 
three tablespoonfuls of flour and stir 
until frothy; add one-fourth a cup of 
cold water, mix without cooking; then 
add the liquid in the roasting pan and 
stir and cook until smooth and boiling. 
Let simmer five or six minutes, then 
strain into a sauceboat. While the 
sauce is simmering, drain the beets, 
cover with cold water and push off the 
skin with the hands. Slice part of them 
into a hot dish, adding salt and bits of 
butter, meanwhile. Slice the rest of 
the beets in a bowl, cover with vinegar 
and set aside for supper. 

Under the oven burner of a gas range, 
green corn may be most easily roasted. 
It will take about fifteen minutes, and 
must be watched and turned carefully. 
More time will be needed when the. 



134 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cooking is done on a toaster over a hot 
stove lid or hot coals. Unless one of 
the children takes the responsibility of 
the cooking, it will simplify matters 
to boil the corn. 

When the food is ready, pour the 
water, bring in bread and butter and 
serve the soup and crackers. Take 
out the soup plates and bring in the 
meat and vegetables. 

If the potatoes for the chowder can be 
sliced and the pulp be scraped from the 
ears of corn at the time the potatoes and 
corn are prepared for dinner, the making 
of the chowder at supper time will not 
be a heavy task. If desired, the dish 
may be finished in the morning, up 
to the point of adding the hot milk; 
then at night it may be reheated and 
the milk added. To secure the pulp, 
with a sharp knife, score the kernels 
lengthwise of the rows, then with the 
back of the knife press out the pulp, 
leaving the hulls on the ear. 

To brown the crackers, split about 
eighteen Boston crackers, spread the 
inner side with butter (use about two 



teaspoonfuls) , place them in a dripping 
pan and set into a hot oven to reheat 
and color slightly. 

Corn Chowder 

1 slice fat salt pork (2 oz.) 1 1 cups hot milk 

1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls 

1^ cups corn-pulp butter 

1 J cups sliced potatoes 1 teaspoonful salt 
I teaspoonful black 
pepper 

Cut the pork in bits and cook in a 
frying pan until the fat is drawn from it; 
add the onion, peeled and sliced, and 
stir and cook until softened and yel- 
lowed. Pour boiling water over the 
potatoes, let boil three or four minutes, 
drain, rinse in cold water and drain 
again. Pour a cup and a half of boiling 
water over the onion and pork, and let 
simmer twenty minutes; strain this 
water over the potatoes, pressing out 
all the liquid possible, then discard the 
onion and pork. After the potatoes 
have cooked ten minutes, add the 
corn-pulp and let simmer until the 
potatoes are tender, then add the hot 
milk, butter, in small pieces, and the 
seasonings. 



Renunciation 

Think you the rose would stay the hand 
That ends fore'er its garden dreams? 

Live out a life by summer spanned, 

Hear o'er and o'er the night wind's themes, 

Or, given choice, find endless rest 

Upon a loved one's hushed breast? 

Think you the heart should ever cling 
To fragments of a love no more, 

Seek in cold ways a vanished spring, 
Or linger at a fast- closed door? 

More foolish are the hearts that sigh 

For meeds of earth with heaven nigh. 



For cherished things of life and soul, 
Surrendered bravely though with pain, 

Are given, as the years unroll, 
Rewards that are a greater gain; 

Such gifts come not at every call — 

They are for hearts who once gave all! 

Arthur W<^llace Peach. 



Summer Drinks 

By Emma Gary Wallace 



THE appetite craves something 
refreshing during warm weather, 
and fruit juices in suitable com- 
bination, lightly sweetened and diluted, 
meet this need admirably. 

If summer drinks are too cold, the 
dehcate flavor is not as easily detected. 
The ideai way is to prepare and place 
the beverage beside the ice, but not to 
put the ice directly into it, or, at most, 
only a small shaved portion. There are 
on the market several ice picks and ice 
shaves which may be procured at a very 
moderate cost, which break the ice in 
small, regular pieces or shave it evenly. 
Every home should have some im- 
plement of this kind. 

The glasses in which summer drinks 
are served should be thin and beauti- 
fully polished, and anything that adds 
to the pleasure of the eye in the service 
will make the beverage more appre- 
ciated, — a dainty tray covered with a 
snow-white embroidered doily, a thin 
circlet of lemon slashed to the center 
and hung on the edge of the glass, a 
spray of mint, or a couple of bright 
cherries. 

Carbonated water may be procured in 
syphons and kept in the home ice box. 
Ginger ale and some of the most popular, 
advertised summer drinks, are also use- 
ful to give a touch of unusual and 
delicious flavor. 

It often happens that a given formula 
does not exactly suit the taste of the 
individual. It may be too sweet or not 
quite sweet enough, or the elimination 
or addition of some ingredient may be 
suggested upon trial. It is well to ex- 
periment with a new drink when the 
family is alone, that proportions may be 
exactly adjusted to the liking of the 
people to be served. Take pains to 
make a note of such changes or rewrite 
the formula as you have altered it; then, 



when company comes, there is no 
question but that your efforts will meet 
with uniform success every time. 

Picnic Lemonade 

Wash and roll the lemons and lay 
them in the oven. Allow half a cup of 
granulated sugar to each lem^on. When 
the lemons are heated through, grate 
the rind over the sugar. Press the 
juice into a bowl. Strain into a glass 
fruit can, pressing the pulp through but 
rejecting the seeds. Add the sugar and 
the grated rind. Seal and put into 
the picnic basket. A tablespoonful of 
this mixture stirred into a glass of ice 
water will make a delicious drink. 

Chocolate Ice Cream Soda 

Prepare chocolate syrup as follows: 
Bottle it and keep near the ice. This 
will keep a week, at least, if kept in cold 
storage and is convenient to have on 
hand. 



§ pound cocoa 
3 pounds sugar 



I 2 quarts water 



Mix the cocoa and the sugar together. 
Rub smooth with part of the water. 
Boil the rest of the water and turn over 
the paste. Bring to the boiling point 
and let simmer for fifteen minutes. 
When ready to use, put one rounding 
tablespoonful of vanilla ice cream into a 
glass, pour two tablespoonfuls of the 
chocolate syrup over this, and fill the 
glass with ice-cold carbonated water. 
Stir very gently. 

Grapeade 



Juice one-half lemon 
One heaping table- 
spoonful sugar 



Two tablespoonfuls 

grape juice 
Ice water to fill glass 



White House Cordial 

1 pint pineapple juice | 2 quarts water 
1 pint orange juice | 2 pounds sugar 
14 lemons | 1 cup fresh mint 



135 



136 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Bruise the mint leaves with part of 
the sugar. Boil the rest of the sugar and 
water for fifteen minutes. Add the 
crushed mint leaves and let simmer five 
minutes more. Strain and cool. Add 
the strained fruit juices. Turn into a 
punch bowl and add one quart of 
charged water. Garnish with tiny 
sprigs of mint, thin slices of orange and 
lemon and a few cherries. 

Maple Cream 

2 ounces maple syrup | Ginger ale 
1 ounce sweet cream | 

Put the maple syrup and cream into 

the glass. Fill with ice-cold ginger ale. 

Beat. 

Maple Milk Shake 

Three ounces maple syrup, 1 spoonful 
vanilla ice cream. Fill the glass with 
cold milk. Add a sprinkling of nutmeg. 

Fruit Cocktail 



1 shredded pineapple 
^ pound marshmallows 
Powdered sugar 



1 cup cherry juice 
I cup lemon juice 

1 cup grape juice 
3 oranges 

Shred the pineapple. Peel the 
oranges; free from membrane and seeds, 
and cut into small pieces. Snip the 
marshmallows into small sections. Mix 
the fruit and marshmallow and sweeten 
with powdered sugar. Mix the fruit 
juices. Serve the fruit mixture in 
cocktail glasses. Put a couple of table- 
spoonfuls of the fruit juices over the 
fruit and finish with a spoonful of lemon 
sherbet. 

For Haying Time 

1 heaping tablespoon- I Juice 4 lemons 

ful powdered ginger \ 1 pound sugar 

I pint vinegar | 2 quarts water 

Mix the sugar, ginger, lemon juice, 
and vinegar together. Pour the water 
over this. Mix until the sugar is dis- 
solved. 

Gingered Lime 

2 tablespoonfuls lime juice 

1 teaspoonful extract of Jamaica ginger 

2 tablespoonfuls sugar 
Ice or carbonated water 

Mix the ginger, lime juice and sugar. 



Fill the glass with plain or carbonated 
water. 

Preparedness Punch 

2 tablespoonfuls cherry juice 
2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 
2 tablespoonfuls sugar 

Fill glass with bottled sarsaparilla soda. 
Ginger Special 

2 tablespoonfuls of grape juice 
Shaved ice 
Ginger ale 

Put the grape juice and the ice into 
the glass. Fill with ginger ale. 

Home-made Aperient Water 

Put two ounces of Epsom salts into a 
bowl. Add the juice of two lemons and 
half a cup of sugar. Pour a quart of 
boiling water over this. Put two ounces 
of cream of tartar into a glass fruit can. 
When the Epsom salts mixture is luke 
warm, turn into the can containing the 
cream of tartar. Seal at once and put 
beside the ice. 

Raspberry Vinegar 

Take half the measure of cider 
vinegar that you have of raspberries. 
Put over the fire in an aluminum or 
agate-ware kettle and boil slowly until 
the fruit has all gone to pieces. Strain 
through muslin. To each quart of the 
resulting juice, allow one pound of sugar. 
Bring once more to the boiling point. 
Seal in sterilized bottles. Allow two 
tablespoonfuls to a glass of ice water. 

Fruited Mint 



2 cups sugar 
1 orange 
6 lemons 



Cup red raspberries 
A handful bruised mint 



Make a syrup of the sugar and half a 
cup of cold water. Do not stir. When 
it spins a thread, add the strained juice 
of the lemons and orange. Pour one 
cup of boiling water over the pulp and 
skins of the fruit. Set on the stove and 
let come to the boiling point. Strain 
and add to the first mixture. Cool. 
Add a quart and a half of ice water and 
the raspberries. Serve with a sprig of 
mint on top of each glass. 



Shakespeare's Vegetables 

By Sarah Graham Morrison 



TO those of us whose acquaintance 
with Shakespeare has been gained 
mostly from the stage and from 
ordinary reading, it would probably 
seem, at first mention of the subject, 
that Shakespeare had .little to say in his 
plays concerning vegetables. It is doubt- 
ful if, offhand, one out of a hundred who 
is thoroughly well-versed in his dramas 
could recall a reference to a single 
member of the vegetable kingdom, — 
vegetables strictly speaking, for his 
flower passages are much better known. 

It will come as somewhat of a surprise 
to them to be told that he mentions 
forty-one different fruits, grains and 
vegetables, — almonds, apples, beans, 
cabbage, carrots, chestnuts, corn, cur- 
rants, dates, figs, grapes, lemons, lettuce, 
mint, mushrooms, mustard, nuts, olives, 
onions, oranges, parsley, parsnips, peas, 
peaches, pears, pepper, plums, pome- 
granates, potatoes, prunes, pumpkins, 
quinces, radishes, rhubarb, rice, sage, 
squash, strawberries, turnips, walnuts, 
wheat. 

Beginning with the grains, there are 
probably more passages about corn than 
any other vegetable. Shakespeare uses 
the word corn at least twenty-three 
times; but it will, of course, be under- 
stood that when Shakespeare uses the 
word he uses it as the generic term. 

In Love's Labour's Lost, we find the 

quotation, 

"He weeds the corn, and still lets grow the 
weeding." 

In Henry IV, reference is made to the 

"winnowing of the corn. " 

and in Henry VI, we find the expression 

"Talk like a vulgar sort of market-men, 
That come to gather money for their corn." 

and again, 

"Want ye corn for bread?" 
But a prettier passage is, 



"Why droops my lord like over-ripen'd com, 
Hanging the head at Ceres' plenteous load?" 

In the third part of Henry VI, King 

Edward says, 

"Once more we sit in England's royal throne 
Repurchas'd with the blood of enemies. 
What valiant foemen, like to autumn's corn, 
Have we mow'd down in tops of all their 
pride." 

In Henry VIII, we find the passage, 

"She shall be loved and fear'd; her own shall 

bless her; 
Her foes shake like a field of beaten com." 

It will be remembered that in the 

play Coriolanus, there are a number of 

passages concerning the buying of the 

corn. One wonders if Shakespeare had 

in mind the nursery rhyme of Little Boy 

Blue, when he wrote these lines in King 

Lear, 

"Sleepest or wakest thou, jolly shepherd? 
Thy sheep be in the corn." 

The principal grain has always been 

wheat — i.e. white, in contradistinction 

to black oats and rye. Shakespeare 

mentions wheat many times in his plays, 

one of the best known passages being in 

Hamlet, 

"As peace should still her wheaten garland 
wear." 

Another equally well-known passage is 

from the Merchant of Venice, 

" His reasons are as two grains of wheat hidden 
in two bushels of chaff." 

He speaks of * 'white wheat" in King 

Lear and of ''red wheat" in Henry IV. 

From the barley, the "beere plant," 

as its name implies, was early brewed 

"barley broth," which was assumed to 

be the food of English soldiers. 

Henry V. 

"Can sodden water, 
A drench for sur-rein'd jades, their barley 

broth, 
Decot their cold blood to such valiant heat?" 

In The Tempest, barley is named with 
other cereals : 



137 



138 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Ceres, most bounteous lady, thy rich leas 
Of wheat, rye, barley, vetches, oats and 
pease." 

In Love's Labour's Lost, we have the 
shepherds 

"piping on oaten straws" 
and Oberon 

"playing on pipes of corn." 

In As You Like It, are the lines : 

"Between the acres of the rye, 

These pretty country folks would He." 

that is, on the grass strips between the 
ploughed acres and half-acres of the 
common fields. We take it that the 
rye straw was used in Shakespeare's 
time for making hats, for in The Tempest 
occurs the passage, 

"Make holiday — your rye-straw hats put on." 

But enough of the cereals. Let us see 

what he has to say about the ordinary 

garden vegetables. In The Merry Wives 

of Windsor, we find one reference to 

cabbage, 

"Good worts! good cabbage. Slender, I broke 
your head: what matter have you against me?" 

The carrot is a native plant, tho\igh 
long cultivation makes the garden form 
and the wild hardly recognizable as 
close relatives. It is said to have been 
introduced as a garden plant into 
England by Flemish gardeners, and its 
name was extended to cover the 
parsnip. 

The potato was not introduced into 
the British Isles until twenty years after 
Shakespeare was born. The two 
passages in his plays are among the 
earliest mention of the tuber after its 
introduction. The plant was introduced 
into Ireland in 1584 by Sir Walter 
Raleigh. A writer of 1597 tehs how 
potatoes are eaten, "either rosted in the 
embers, or boiled and eaten with vinegar 
and pepper, or dressed in any other way 
by the hand of some cunning in 
cookerie." The two passages in Shakes- 
peare are, 

"Let the sky rain potatoes." 
and 



"How the devil Luxury, with his fat rump and 
potato-finger, tickles these together." 

Turnips are grown on a large scale 

as food for cattle, but we find only one 

mention of them in Shakespeare's plays. 

"I had rather be set quick i' the earth 
And bowl'd to death with turnips." 

In Shakespeare's time it was believed, 
that tender onions eaten in honey give 
health, that the juice is a remedy for 
baldness, that it is good for the com- 
plexion, and takes'away white spots from 
the face, that mingled with hen's grease, 
it drieth up the kibes, while mixed with 
honey and salt it was a sovereign remedy 
against the bite of a mad dog, but 
Shakespeare seems to have thought of 
onions principally as tear-producing 
vegetables. In Anthony and Cleopatra, 
he says, 

"Indeed, the tears live in an onion that should 
water this sorrow," 

and in The Taming oj the Shrew, 

"And if the boy have not a woman's gift, 
To rain a shower of commanded tears, 
An onion will do well for such a shift." 

One reference alone is necessary to 

his use of peas, which was a curious old 

lovers' custom of reading good or evil 

fortune with a pea-pod, which gave 

birth to a Devonshire proverb : 

"Winter time for shoeing, peascod time for 
wooing." 

In As You Like It, are the lines : 

"I remember the wooing of a peascod instead 
of her: from whom I took two cods, and giving 
her them again, said with weeping tears, 'Wear 
these for my sake. ' ' ' 

"The divination of a peascod was obtained by 
selecting one growing on the stem, snatching 
it away quickly, and if the good omen of the 
peas remaining in the husk were preserved, then 
presenting it to the lady of one's choice.' 

So we might continue with the nuts 
and fruits. Nowhere do they seem 
dragged in for the sake of showing his 
knowledge, but always are they used 
with telling effect, generally with 
metaphor or simile; and as one studies 
the plays from this viewpoint, one 
marvels again and again at the profound 
knowledge of the writer. 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIExSJr 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Young Squash, Italian Style 

NOT the patty pan or scalloped 
variety is meant, but the imma- 
ture Italian variety to be had in our 
large cities and wherever Italians grow- 
vegetables. The Italians begin to use 
squash from the blossom period on, 
for the Neapolitans use the blossoms 
dipped in batter for fritters, — and very 
nice they are, made of the dewy-fresh 
golden fragrant flowers of our American 
variety. The writer tried this years 
ago, and lest the idea be thought waste- 
ful and destructive of the crop, let it be 
explained that there are two kinds of 
flowers on the squash vine, those which 
develop fruit and those which only 
yield pollen. Choose some of these 
superfluous pollen-bearing flowers. The 
fruit-bearing ones are readily told by the 
formation of the fruit back of the bloom 
from the earliest showing of the bud. 

The Italians send baby squash into 
market, the withered blooms still at- 
tached. These squashes are green in 
color and club-shaped or like big oval 
croquettes. Of course, they are very 
tender and not to be boiled and mashed 
like our squash. The foreign way is to 
slice them lengthwise. Fry them, that 
is saute them, in olive oil. Add salt, a 
tiny can of Italian tomato paste, and 
some garlic. Stew gently and serve hot. 

Another way is to coat them in a rich 
egg-batter, that is a batter rich in egg, 
(in egg, not fat) and saute them slowly 
until done through, then dress them with 
a white sauce. This may be flavored 
with some onion and celery, parsley 



minced on top, etc., to suit the family 
likings in the matter of white sauces. 
The Italian tomato paste is very in- 
expensive and convenient. Some of it 
comes flavored with pimiento, or sweet 
peppers. 

Fried Bread or ''Nun's Fritters" 

SO often sour milk is thrown away 
and sweet milk purchased, but sour 
milk may be used for salad dressing, 
gingerbread, batter cakes and corn 
bread, graham bread and many other 
things. However, to use it for French 
fried bread, or nun's fritters seem a new 
departure. The idea, while from an 
American source, came in a collection of 
recipes from Hawaii, which, though a 
part of the United States for some time, 
still, in a way, seems foreign to most of us. 

The recipe calls for stale bread to be 
dipped in hot water, then in a batter 
made from one quart of sour milk, a 
teaspoonful of soda, butter the size of an 
egg, melted and added to beaten eggs, 
and some salt. Fry in hot lard. 

The writer prefers to cook it quickly 
a golden brown upon a griddle that has 
been rubbed with butter or crisco. If 
there is no griddle,use a deep iron fry-pan 
instead, or an omelet pan will do. 

This fried bread is nice with an addi- 
tion of red and white pepper and a little 
sugar, also, as well as salt, if it is to be 
eaten with meat or eggs. If for a sweet 
dish, serve with cinnamon and sugar, 
mixed; or with a pudding sauce of a 
simple kind, with stewed fruit or jam. 

It may be stamped out in rounds and 
used as a base for sweets, such as a half-. 
139 



140 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



peach or apricot, heated in the liquid 
that comes with canned fruit. 

The important point is that sour milk 
may be used for this appetizing dish by 
simply correcting the acidity with soda. 

Left-Over Macaroni and Boiled 
Rice 

OF course, macaroni can always be 
reheated, or used in croquettes, 
with other things, but a good way to 
change and enlarge the supply of cold 
macaroni, cooked with cheese, is to open 
a can of tomato and put with it. Cut the 
macaroni into short lengths. For the 
home table it is not amiss, or for a school 
child's quick luncheon, to add some cold 
cooked rice, also. Season with salt and 
pepper, and a little onion, or celery, if 
liked. Southern people are very apt to 
put boiled rice, by the spoonful, into 
their stewed tomato, just as they like 
rice with a gumbo, and so it is nice to add 
it to the macaroni-and-tomato. 

Cold meat can be cut small and added, 
making a nourishing stew. If properly 
prepared these combinations are not 
''messy" in appearance, but are appetiz- 
ing and economical ways of using small 
portions of good food. Cold rice may 
also be used in various salad combina- 
tions. 

Macaroni and rice with leftovers of 
vegetables can be put through a vege- 
table press or sieve and used for a thick 
soup by the addition of stock, or milk. 

A New Industry 

HOTELS and restaurants in some 
cities can buy potatoes peeled and 
ready to cook. The waste portions are 
converted into yeast and vinegar. 

Of course, alcohol can be made from 
potatoes. Potato flour is little used in 
the United States, although many nice 
things can be made from it, as cakes, 
puddings, etc. It is less liked than corn- 
starch and wheat flour for gravies and 
sauces. 

Many persons, when starch is lacking 
for stiffening some few pieces, such as 



shirt waists, laces and the like, do not 
know that the starch easily made from 
boiled potatoes can be used, or from 
boiled rice. The Japanese use rice 
starch for their fine embroideries, in 
fact, who can think of the Japanese 
without rice in some form, from straw 
for farm hats to fancy cakes. 

A California Method of Preserving 
Figs 

PEEL the figs and dry them in the hot 
sun for a day, then let them stand 
over night in sugar, which is to preserve 
them. Finally cook like any preserve. 
The drying after peeling is intended to 
keep their shape and not cook to pieces. 
Flavor as preferred with lemon, vanilla, 
ginger root, rose geranium, etc. 

Raisin Butter 

THIS has not yet been made in large 
commercial quantities, but so far 
as tried is pronounced a success by all 
who use it. 

Freshly made Muscatel raisins, seeded, 
and seedless raisins were ground to- 
gether until fine, and a little syrup added 
to make it of a nice smooth consistency. 

Why should we not have raisin butter 
as well as apple, peach, and plum 
butters,, also the well-known peanut 
butter ? 

Fried Artichokes 

TAKE small globe artichokes, so 
abundant in California and parts of 
our Southern states. Cut off the hard 
parts and top. Parboil for fifteen 
minutes, and then dip in egg-batter and 
fry in olive oil. 

This is the Italian method, so much 
talked of by returning tourists, — little 
fried artichokes "no bigger than a 
chrysanthemum." J. D. C. 

Green Tomato Mince Meat 

CHOP green tomatoes, measure three 
pints and drain well. Add four 
pints chopped apples, two cups chopped 
seeded raisins, one and one-half cups 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



141 



seedless raisins, one cup seeded raisins 
cut in halves, one-half cup fine-chopped 
citron, three and one-half' cups brown 
sugar, one and one half cups vinegar, 
three teaspoonfuls cinnamon, one tea- 
spoonful, each, clove and mace, two 
teaspoonfuls salt. Simmer mixture 
until it looks clear (about three hours), 
then add one cup butter ; seal while hot 
in glass jars. Mrs. J. H. 

Sauted Celery and Potatoes 

1 cup celery, cut in inch pieces. 

2 cups cold, boiled potatoes, diced. 

BOIL celery in salted water until 
soft and drain off all moisture. Heat 
bacon fat or butter in a frying pan; when 
smoking hot turn in the potatoes, toss 
them well so they will brown evenly, and 
cook until quite crisp; when done put 
them on a dish on the back of the stove 
to keep hot. Add more bacon fat to the 
frying pan and saute the celery until it 
is a golden brown. Pour off any excess 
fat left in the pan and return the 
potatoes; add pepper or paprika, mix 
thoroughly with a silver fork, reheat, 
and serve. 

This dish will be found particularly 
good to serve with roast beef or beef 
steak. The quantity given in this 
recipe should serve six people. F. A. 

Keeping Cream 

THE uses of a reliable "vacuum 
bottle," are not confined to picnics 
or excursions. It is often necessary to 
keep a small amount of cream or milk 
for several hours before it is to be used, 
when it is not convenient to buy ice 
for that purpose alone. If the bottle be 
perfectly cold, and the fresh ice-cold 
milk or cream be put into it immediately 
the milkman brings it, it should keep 
without turning for a day, at least. 
This is especially useful when one's 
early breakfast is the only meal taken 
at home. Milk is, perhaps, the most 
important of foods, the price of which, 
it seems, often has little to do with its 
quality. 



The Cost of Government 

THE fact is that the cost of our 
Government has passed beyond the 
control of any one department or any 
one party. In the last thirty-five years 
our population has doubled and our 
expenditures have more than trebled. 
No matter what party is in the as- 
cendancy, appropriations increase. 
Twenty years ago billion-dollar Con- 
gresses excited attention. The Con- 
gress just adjourned authorized the 
expenditure in two years of $2,231,- 
239,547. 

This is more than one-fifth of the 
estimated value of our farm products 
last year. It is two-thirds of all the 
money in circulation in the United 
States. It is more than twice the 
capital of all national banks. It is 
almost one-half of all deposits in sav- 
ings banks. It is more than $22 for 
every man, woman and child in the 
Republic. 

With Federal outlay mounting in 
this fashion, it is to be remembered 
that under our system *there are other 
Governments, State and municipal, 
which exhibit the same tendency. 
The cost of Government is increasing 
faster than population, faster than 
wealth, faster than manufactures, faster 
than foreign commerce. No other 
public issue is of such importance. No 
other receives so little intelligent and 
patriotic attention. 

To master a situation which has been 
growing steadily worse for many years, 
good citizens must forget for a season 
that they are Democrats and Republi- 
cans, and become devoted Americans. 
The growth and prosperity of the 
country, the earnings of labor, the 
tranquility of the people, the promotion 
of justice, the security of life and 
property, even the preservation of 
Republican institutions, may depend 
upon the success of a reform that is both 
vital and urgent. — The New York 
World. 



142 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Making and Drinking Coffee (in 
Europe) 

THE other day I ran across a 
relative in San Diego, camping 
out in the city Hke myself. We 
went into a moving picture show and 
from one of her. parcels there came a 
fine odor of fresh-ground coffee wasting 
its flavor in the air instead of being 
kept for the cup. This woman rather 
fancies herself on her coffee. She keeps 
it in an ordinary tin, boils it up once in 
water and settles it, and the brew is 
decent but not so good as it should be. 
This American way of making coffee 
wastes the limited amount of flavor in it, 
and, the coffee being ground coarse to 
keep the extract clear, not all of it is 
utilized. 

Everywhere in Europe, except in 
England, they do this better. Every 
household has a coffee-mill and the coffee 
is ground just before making it. The 
berries are bought whole at a shop 
where the sales are so large that the 
coffee has been roasted only a few days 
before. The coffee is made by pouring 
boiling water over it in a perforated 
top to the coffee-pot, and the coffee 
runs through clear, with all its flavor 
preserved, without a boiled taste, and 
is completely extracted. 

If a coffee-mill is not at hand, most 
of the flavor can be preserved by taking 
one or two pint Mason jars to the shop, 
having the coffee, ground rather fine, 
put into them immediately. No more 
should be bought than will be used 
in a week, and even so the last of 
it will not be as good as the first. A 
pint jar holds six ounces of ground 
coffee. 

A cup of coffee is like a beefsteak in 
being best when consumed as soon as 
possible after cooking it. For the late 
straggler down to breakfast Sunday 
morning a second coffee "biggin" for 
making one or two cups is a useful 
addition to the family coffee-pot. If 



economy is necessary, the French way of 
serving breakfast coffee avoids the 
expense of cream. They make it very 
strong and fill the large cup or bowl 
with hot milk. One can get accustomed 
to the boiled milk flavor, and the milk 
is nourishing. The Germans use a 
special thin cream called "coffee cream", 
which costs about twenty cents a 
quart, which is four times the price of 
their milk. When one lives in furnished 
rooms in Germany, this coffee with rolls 
and butter is included in the price of 
the rooms, and is brought in by your 
landlady, who is, also, not above black- 
ing your shoes. 

The French people sit at table after 
lunch and chat and smoke over a cup 
of black coffee. In the afternoon the 
women seldom take anything until 
dinner. When they do it is often a cup of 
chocolate in a cake-shop. The German 
hausfrau relaxes after her heavy noon 
dinner and takes a nap, reappearing 
about four o'clock, when she and her 
neighbors go into the garden and drink 
coffee and eat cakes and gossip. It is 
a pleasant function, better suited to 
bright summer weather than the English 
afternoon tea, which is at its best indoors 
in the gloomy climate of the English 
winter. . 

The men of France and Germany 
work late and take it easy after the 
noon meal, going to a cafe for coffee 
and a smoke or even a game of cards. 
On Sundays, the German family often 
go to a garden restaurant, children and 
all, where they sit for hours drinking 
coffee ordered in huge portions. 

Both Germans and French drink 
coffee because they want to go to a cafe 
or garden restaurant, while the British 
are seized with an irresistible tea-thirst 
between half past four and five o'clock 
and rush into the nearest teashop to 
satisfy it. They often eat ravenously 
at the same time of bread and butter 
and jam, as though the appetite had just 
waked up for the day. B. W. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave^ Boston, Mass, 



Query No. 2712. 
less Cooker." 



"Recipes for use in Fire- Query No, 2714. — "What Foods are suit- 

able for a formal dinner?" 



Dishes for Fireless Cooker 

Round steak or stuffed veal cut- 
lets, — both given as casserole dishes, 
may be cooked in a fireless cooker. 
Corned beef, shoulder and leg of lamb, 
a fowl, either with or without vegetables, 
are among the dishes particularly good 
for this style of cooking. A recipe for 
stuffed veal cutlets was given in the 
June-July number of the magazine; 
round steak, either plain or stuffed, may 
be cooked in the same manner — that is 
with the same vegetables and same 
general style of cooking. 



Query No. 2713. — "What Courses must be 
included in a dinner that it may be designated as 
a formal dinner?" 

Courses for a Formal Dinner 

Just where the dividing line between 
a formal and informal dinner should be 
drawn is not easy to determine. Of 
course, corned beef, with the vegetables 
usually accompanying it, does not com- 
prise a formal dinner; but there are 
other dinners of whose classification one 
would be in doubt. 

. Possibly a dinner at which was served 
a clear soup, fresh fish in some form, a 
roast of butcher's meat, poultry or game 
with a green salad, and a choice dessert, 
followed by coffee, would be as simple 
a meal as could be called a formal 
dinner. 



Foods for a Formal Dinner 

The main course of a formal dinner 
should express dignity; thus a roast is 
usually selected for this course. Braised 
meats are allowable; boiled meats are 
less highly favored and are rarely — if 
ever — selected for such a dinner. 
Ham, even if given after a roast — in a 
dinner in which both roast and ''game" 
(not always game but a highly flavored 
dish) are presented — is baked rather 
than boiled. 

Now comes the exception: In these 
modern days when roasts are not carved 
on the table, is the dinner less formal if 
the filet of beef be cut into steaks and 
broiled, and thus served with Hollan- 
daise or brown mushroom sauce, as the- 
roast filet would be served ? 

Consomme is the dinner soup. Bouil- 
lon, cream soups and purees are luncheon 
soups. 

French dressing is used at dinner, 
mayonnaise at luncheon. If mayonnaise 
be used at dinner, on cauliflower, aspara- 
gus or tomatoes, the salad is served 
as an entree and as a course by itself. 

It is not necessary that the dessert 
course in a formal dinner include an ice, 
still an ice is considered the choicest 
dessert that can be provided. 



Query No. 2715. — "Are Fruit Cocktails 
(without liquor), grape fruit, etc., ever served as 
a first course at formal dinners to precede the 



143 



144 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



soup? Are frozen dishes ever correctly served 
as first courses?" 

Service of a Fruit Cocktail 

A fruit cocktail may be served before 
a soup or in place of the soup, but 
would be considered rather less "formal 
than a choice canape. Canapes are 
rarely served at luncheon, but this is an 
open question. 

A frozen sweet dish is quite out of 
place as a first course at any meal. 



Query No. 2716. — "An expert in cookery 
says that in heating butter to the brown stage, 
as in sauces etc., we change it into an almost 
deadly poison, transfusing it from a good whole- 
some product into one of the worst forms of 
food for the stomach to digest. Will you tell me 
if this is so, and why?" 

Cooked Butter 

The expert puts the case somewhat 
too strongly. Any fat, if heated beyond 
a fixed point, splits into simpler bodies , 
of which the most in evidence are the 
so-called fatty-acids. Since these are 
the normal products of all fat digestion, 
they are hardly to be spoken of as 
"almost deadly poisons." They are, 
however, properly formed in any quant- 
ity only after the food has left the 
stomach, so that a delicate digestion is 
sometimes upset by having them where 
they do not belong (in the stomach). 
Butter heated to a high temperature 
happens to be especially liable to form 
unpleasant or irritating by-products, but 
none of these are really poisonous. 



Query No. 2717. — "Recipe for moist Gold 
Cake?" 



Moist Gold Cake 



i cup butter 
4 egg-yolks 
1| cups sugar 



1 cup milk 
2 1 cups flour 
3 level teaspoonfuls 
baking powder 

Beat the butter to a cream and the 
egg-yolks until light colored and thick, 
then beat half the sugar into each. 
Sift the flour and baking-powder to- 
gether, then add to the first mixture, 
alternately, with the milk; beat very 
thoroughly. Bake in loaf, sheet or 
layers. 



Query No. 2718. — "How may Strawberry 
and Raspberry Juice be prepared to keep for 
use in the winter in ices, punch, etc.?" 

Canned Strawberry and Rasp- 
berry Juice 

Heat the berries, hulled and washed if 
necessary, in a large double boiler until 
they are softened throughout, then 
drain through a cloth, pressing out all 
the juice. Heat until just below the 
boiling point and store as any canned 
fruit in sterilized j ars . Use new rubbers . 
The residue in the cloth may be covered 
with water and simmered ten or fifteen 
minutes, and after expressing the liquid 
it may be canned as above. This liquid 
will not be as highly flavored or colored 
as the first. 

Date-and-Tapioca Pudding 

Set a pint of boiling water and half a 
teaspoonful of salt over the fire in a 
double boiler; stir in half a cup of a quick 
cooking tapioca, stirring occasionally, 
and let cook until the tapioca is trans- 
parent; add one-fourth a cup of sugar, 
the juice of a lemon and half a pound or 
more of prepared dates, then fold in the 
beaten whites of two eggs and let cook 
until the egg is cooked, two or three 
minutes. Serve hot or cold, but pref- 
erably hot, with cream. To prepare the 
dates, cover them with boiling water, 
stir with a plated fork, then skim from 
the water to an agate dish, cut the dates 
from the seeds, in four lengthwise pieces, 
each, when they are ready to use. 



Query No. 2719. — "In catering for Fifty 
People how can one judge how much soup to 
prepare, how much fish, beef, poultry, etc., to 
buy that there may be just enough?" 

Food for Fifty Persons 

In purchasing supplies for 50 people 
the quantity to be ordered would 
depend on the age and occupation of the 
people to be served, also the number of 
other items of food to be presented in 
the meal would need to be considered. 
If both fish and butcher's meat are pro- 
vided, the quantity needed of each 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



145 



would be less than, if either be served 
alone. In hotels and restaurants the 
style of service,, as — table d' hote or 
a la carte, has to do with the quantity 
needed. The Hotel Monthly in referring 
to a similar subject lately, without 
specifying which kind of service was 
intended, gives three-fourths . a pound 
of turkey (for roasting) or white fish 
(for boiling) as the proper allowance for 
each individual; by the same authority 
half a pound of tenderloin (roast) or 
filet of sole was estimated as the proper 
quantity to allow for each service. 
These latter are practically free from 
waste. One bushel of potatoes are 
supposed to supply 200 orders of 
mashed potatoes or 150 orders of French- 
fried potatoes; and one gallon of soup 24 
portions. We think the quantity of 
soup too small and the quantity of meat 
and fish rather large. For the home 
table three-fourths to one whole cup of 
soup is allowed to each individual. The 
careful provider of supplies will note the 
quantity left over or lacking at each 
meal on paper, and in less than a week's 
time by comparison and study will be 
able to make out a list of quantities for 
nearly all the items that are included in 
the bill of fare provided for her especial 
family, be it large or small. 



Query No. 2720. — "Kindly give explicit 
directions for Preserving Eggs for winter use." 

To Preserve Eggs for Use in Winter 

Into each three gallons of water mix 
one pint of freshly-slacked lime and one- 
half pint of common salt ; put in the eggs 
and cover with a board sprinkled with 
lime and salt. 

Solution for Preserving Eggs 

Fill an earthen or water-tight wooden 
vessel with eggs. To one part of water 
glass, also known as soluble glass and 
silicate of soda, add ten parts of tepid 
water, stirring the water thoroughly and 
slowly into the water glass. When the 
resultant mixture is cold, pour it gently 
over the eggs, using sufficient to immerse 



2 cups pastry flour 
\ teaspoonful salt 
4 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder 



them. Three pints of water glass and 
thirty pints, or fifteen quarts, of water 
will generally cover fifty dozen eggs. 
Keep the vessel covered and in a cool 
place. 

Query No. 2721. — "Recipe for Scotch 
Scones both plain and with raisins or currants?" 

Scotch Scones 

3 tablespoonfuls short- 
ening 
1 egg, beaten light 
I to I cup milk 

Sift together the flour, salt and baking 
powder; with two knives cut in the 
shortening ; add the half cup of milk to 
the egg and use in mixing the dry in- 
gredients to a dough, adding more milk 
if needed; turn on a floured board, 
knead slightly to shape in a round and 
roll out about half an inch thick; cut in 
triangular-shaped pieces (as a pie is cut), 
set a little distance apart on a baking 
pan, brush over with shortening and 
bake about fifteen minutes. Split the 
scones, toast over coals, spread with 
butter and serve at once. 



\ cup shortening 
2 yolks, beaten light 
^ cup milk (about) 
I cup Sultana raisins 



Scotch Scones with Fruit 

2 cups pastry flour 
^ teaspoonful salt 
4 teaspoonfuls baking 

powder 
\ cup sugar 

Sift the sugar with the other dry 

ingredients, and mix as plain scones, 

adding the fruit at the last; currants or 

candied peel may be used in place of the 

raisins. If preferred the scones may be 

cut with a round or fancy shaped cutter, 

instead of the triangular shapes noted 

above. Brush over the shapes, after 

they are set in the pan, with shortening 

or milk and dredge with sugar. When 

baked split, toast, spread with butter 

and serve at once. 



Query No. 2722. — "Recipe for Home-made 
Soap?" 

Home-made Soap 

1 quart cold water I 2 teaspoonfuls sugar 

1 can potash 2 tablespoonfuls borax 

6 lbs. melted and 1 tablespoonful am- 

strained grease monia 



146 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Add the water to the potash and let 
stand until the potash is dissolved and 
the mixture is cool. The grease should 
be just warm ; mix it with the potash and 
water; add the sugar, borax and am- 
monia and stir slowly until the mixture 
thickens; pour into a shallow box and 
mark into squares or cakes before it 
becomes too hard. 



Query No. 2723. —"Recipes for Philadelphia 
ReHsh and Eggs a la King?" 

Philadelphia Relish 



1 pint cabbage, 

chopped fine 
1 red pepper, chopped 

fine 
1 green pepper, 

chopped fine 
I teaspoonful salt 



cup brown sugar 
teaspoonful white 
mustard seed 
teaspoonful celery- 
seed 
cup vinegar 



Chop the cabbage and peppers ex- 
ceedingly fine, then mix all the in- 
gredients together. 



Query No. 2724. — "Recipes for Chutney, 
Pepper ReHsh and Hebrew Relish?" 

Chutney 



2 cups vinegar 

2 tablespoonfuls salt 

^ package pickling 
spices or equivalent 
of stick cinnamon 

1 teaspoonful celery 
seed 



6 peaches 

12 ripe tomatoes 

24 apples 

2 cups raisins 

8 small onions 

4 peppers (seeds 

discarded) 
4 cups brown sugar 

Remove the skins from the peaches, 
tomatoes, apples, and onions, discarding 
peach stones and apple cores. Chop 
the prepared fruit, raisins, onions and 
peppers very fine ; add the sugar, vinegar 
salt and spices (tied in a bag), and let 
simmer one hour; store as canned fruit. 

Pepper Relish 



3 pints vinegar 

4 cups sugar 

4 tablespoonfuls salt 



12 red peppers 
12 green peppers 
8 small onions 
12 green tomatoes 

Chop the vegetables very fine ; add the 

other ingredients and let simmer one 

hour. Store in cans or seal in bottles. 

Hebrew Relish 

For about a pint, grate two horse- 
radish roots; add one tablespoonful of 



tumeric, half a cup of sugar, a table- 
spoonful of celery seed, two tablespoon- 
fuls of mustard seed, and hot vinegar to 
cover the whole. Store in a pint jar, 
adding hot vinegar to fill to overflow. 
Let the mixture stand one week before 
use. 



Keeping Newspapers 

WHEN the daily newspapers are 
neither destroyed nor used at 
once for household purposes, but are 
laid aside for future packing, or some 
charitable organization, it pays to make 
each lot of them into a flat, square 
bundle, and tie the package with a 
string stout enough to lift it by. Such 
packages can be stored in less space 
than loose papers require, can be shifted 
and handled, when housecleaning time 
comes, and the papers are always clean 
and ready for any need, or for sale. 

Worth Knowing 

There should be wider knowledge of 
the well-proven fact that by first taking 
breaths as deep as possible, and as 
rapidly as possible, for a minute or two, 
the breath can be held longer than it 
can be done otherwise. If one ever 
has to go through smoke, or other 
strangling fumes, ability to protect 
one's lungs thus may mean the differ- 
ence between safety and extreme danger. 
There is no reason why young children 
may not be taught this, and shown how 
to practice deep and long breathing. 



An Ancient Standard 

The grain, as a unit of measurement, 
was introduced by Henry III, who 
ordered a grain of wheat gathered from 
the middle of the ear to be the standard 
of weight. 



The colored people of Virginia pay 
taxes on real and personal property to 
the amount of $34,743,656. Of this 
amount, $3,180,662 is in the city of 
Richmond. 



The Silver Lining 



Chez Nous 

This morning to my home I said: 
"Dear Home, I've nicely breakfasted, 
And now good-by; I'm on the wing 
To do my larger housekeeping. 

At ten, a committee on - 

'Homes in the Making' ; 

At eleven, on 'Housing'; 

At twelve, on 'Child Rearing' ; 

No luncheon. At one, to the 

'League for Good Training 

And Wise Supervision of 

Household Domestics'; 

Two to three, a debate on 

'Why Women are Restless' ; 

At four, a committee 

On 'After School Play Time'; 

At five, a symposium 

On 'Meeting One's Husband.' 
Dear Home, at six to you returned, 
Enlarged by so much I have learned. 
If not too tired, it seems to me 
I'll dam the stockings after tea." 

C. S. P. W. 



Still a Proud Father 

That parental affection does not 
always see things as they are is illus- 
trated by a story told by a Georgian. 
Harper's Monthly tells that he overheard 
this conversation between two natives 
who had formerly been close friends. 

**A11 your boys turned out well, did 
they?" 

"Yes, I reckon they did." 

* 'What's John doing?" 

"He's doctoring in Texas." 

"And Dick?" 

"He's enlarging of a country news- 
paper and collecting subscriptions." 

"And William — what's he doing?" 

"He's preaching the gospel and split- 
ting rails for a living." 

"And what are you doing?" 

"Well, I'm supporting John and Dick 
and William." 



"You see. Miss Blatch," said the 
manager of a certain public refreshment 
room, ''there is a great deal in making 



your sandwiches look attractive." 
"Yes, sir, I know," replied the girl, "I 
have done everything I could. I have 
dusted those sandwiches every morning 
for the last ten days !" 

College Graduates and Their 
Wives 

Dozens of old graduates were back, 
and they talked a lot about themselves 
and a lot more about others not so 
fortunate as to attend. 

"Most of our old crowd are married 
and happy," said one. 

"Married, anyhow," said another, 
with the grin that always accompanies 
this silly joke. 

"I accept the amendment," returned 
the first speaker, "but chiefly on account 
of poor Billy Tompkins. He had an un- 
fortunate marital experience." 

We hadn't heard of it and begged for 
particulars. 

"Why, the girl he married turned out 
to be a professional pickpocket." 

The man who had first spoken sighed, 
but his eyes twinkled. 

"Well," he observed, "I guess the 
rest of us drew some pretty clever 
amateurs — what?" 



The mother of the family stood in the 
reception hall with her eyes fixed on the 
applicant for a position. "Why were 
you discharged from your last place?" 
she asked. "Because I sometimes for- 
got to wash the children, mem." "O 
mother," came in chorus from the 
children hanging over the stairs, "please 
engage her!" ^ Household Words.. 



"I was talking to an Eastern clergyman 
the other day about his church attend- 
ance. T suppose,' I said, 'that in your 
district rain affects the attendance 
considerably.* He smiled faintly. 'In- 
deed, yes' he said. 'I hardly have a 
vacant seat when it is too wet for golf or 
motoring." — Cleveland Leader. 



147 



148 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The Rewards of Literature 

"Did you make any money on your 
last novel?" asked the writer's cl-ose 
friend. 

"Did I make any money?" echoed the 
great novelist. "Well, I should say I 
did! I sold that description of the 
Palisades in Chapter 3 to the Quickline 
Railroad for five thousand dollars. My 
tribute to the Plaster de Paris Hotel in 
New York, in Chapter 10, brought me 
three thousand dollars from the hotel 
people, and the United Resorts Limited 
paid me another thousand for my rhap- 
sody on the sunset in the Umpegog 
Mountains, in Chapter 30, where the 
hero takes her in his arms. What's left 
of it I boil down into a short story and 
get ten dollars for it. Did I make any 
money? Well, now!" 

Beating the Devil Around 

There is an Irish priest in the Province 
of Quebec who deserves to be popular, in 
the opinion of the N. Y. Evening Post 
Magazine. He is hail fellow well met 
with every one in the village, asks for 
contributions, and gets liberal ones, 
from Protestants and Catholics alike. 
One day a delegation of Baptists called 
on him — men who had frequently con- 
tributed to Father W.'s church — told 
him they were going to erect a new 
Baptist church, as the old one was too 
small, and asked him to subscribe to the 
fund. 

"Well, boys," he said after a slight 
hesitation, "you know my reHgion for- 
bids my doing that, but I will give you 
fifty dollars to help tear the old church 
down." . 

Warm Religion 

In an Eastern city a pastor of a colored 
Baptist church consulted a plumber and 
steamfitter about the cost of putting in 
a baptistry. The estimate was soon 
furnished and the figure was regarded as 
satisfactory. 

"But," said the plumber, "this covers 



only the tank and the water supply. Of 
course, you will want some sort of ar- 
rangement to heat the water." 

But the colored pastor had a truly eco- 
nomic mind, and his own ideas of religion 
also, for he promptly dissented. 

"You see," said he to the plumber, "I 
don't low to baptize nobody in that 
there baptistry what hain't got religion 
enough to keep him warm." 



An English barrister, arguing before 
the criminal court, says Answers, re- 
marked with much solemnity to the 
presiding justice, "My lord, there is 
honor among thieves." The justice 
looked at him severely. "There is gold 
in sea water," he replied, "but it cannot 
be extracted in profitable quantities. 
Go on, sir." 



The Fulfilled Wish 

A boarding school lad wrote to an 
uncle for financial aid, and then, feel- 
ing a bit shaky about the impression his 
letter would make, added the following 
postscript : 

"P. S. Dear Uncle: I am so ashamed 
to have asked you for this money that 
I have run after the postman a long 
way to ^et this letter back, but am 
unable to catfch him. My only wish 
now is that you will never get this letter. 
"Your Loving Nephey," 
The uncle replied by return mail: 

"My Dear Nephew: I am hastening 
to make you happy by telling you that 
your wish was granted. I never 
received your letter. 

"Your Loving Uncle." 



While Abraham Lincoln was in 
Springfield a fellow lawyer, who was 
mainly supported by the other lawyers 
of the town, became indebted to a 
wealthy citizen for two dollars and fifty 
cents. The rich man directed Mr. 
Lincoln to bring suit. Lincoln was un- 
willing, but his client insisted. Finally 
Mr. Lincoln said, "Well, if you are 
determined, my charge will be ten 



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D 



ID you ever make a peach pie with Crisco? Try it! You'll find the crust flaky, tasty and so tender 
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Crisco is a purely vegetable shortening. It is the rich cream of edible oil having neither taste nor odor, 
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Crisco- Made Peach Pie 

A Pastry Recipe Every Housewife Should Carefully Preserve 

iK cupfuls flour H cupful Crisco sliced fresh peaches 

1 teaspoonful salt 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls water sugar 

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"The Whys of Cooking" 

Janet McKenzie Hill's New Book Sent for Five 2-Cent Stamps 

McKenzie Hill of the Boston Cooking School and editor of American Cookery is the author of 
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149 



150 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



dollars." The client paid the money 
at once. After his departure Lincoln 
went out of the office, returning in an 
hour with an amused look. Asked what 
pleased him, he said: "Well, I brought 

the suit against and then hunted 

him up and told him. I gave him half 
of my ten dollars, and we went over to 
the Squire's office, where he confessed 
judgment and paid the bill." Mr. 
Lincoln added that he saw no other way 
"to make things so generally satis- 
factory." 

The ease with which all sorts of 
trouble in civilian life can be blamed on 
the war, gives a freshness to paragraphs 
like these : 

The new maid was entirely a war-time 
makeshift, says The Treasury, and the 
mistress bore with her patiently at first. 
But on the third day she placed a very 
unclean dinner plate on the table, and 
patience broke down. "Really, Mary, 
you might at least see that the plates are 
clean." "Well, mum," Mary rejoined, 
"I owns to them thumb marks, but 
that dried mustard was there afore 
I come." 



While Jane, the new maid, was taking 
her first lesson on arranging the dining- 
table, some one in the basement kitchen 
put something upon the dumb-waiter 
below. "What's that noise?" asked 
Jane quickly. "Why, that's the dumb- 
waiter," responded her mistress. 
"Well," said Jane, "he's a-scratchin' to 
git out." — Collier's. 



An Irishman, wishing to take a home- 
stead, and not knowing just how to go 
about it, sought information from a 
friend. "Mike," he said, "you've taken 
a homestead, an' I thought maybe ye 
could tell me th' law concernin' how to 
go about it." "Well, Dennis, I don't 
remimber th' exact wordin' uv th' law, 
but I can give ye th' manin' uv it. 
Th' maning uv it is this : Th' governmint 



is willin' t' bet ye 160 acres uv land agin 
$14 thot ye can't live on it five years 
without starvin' t* death." — Every- 
body's Magazine. 



Hon. Benjamin Kimball is said to 
have complained to one of the butchers 
at Gilford about the quality of meat 
supplied, saying: "That lamb you sold 
me must have been old enough to vote. 
It was so tough I could hardly cut it." 
"Oh," said the butcher, "that is nothing; 
Tom Fuller said the last piece of meat 
he bought of me was so tough he 
couldn't get his fork into the gravy." 



Little Millie's father and grandfather 
were Republicans; and, as election drew 
near, they spoke of their opponents with 
ever-increasing warmth, never heeding 
the little maid who was preparing for bed. 
She cast a fearful glance across the room, 
and whispered in a frightened voice: 
"Oh, mamma, I'm afraid to go to bed. 
I'm afraid there's a Democrat in the 
closet." — Organizer. 



Her mother had been trying to teach 
little three-year-old Dorothy to spell 
her own name, but met with poor 
success. At last she scolded her, and 
said that no one would think her very 
smart if ^she couldn't spell her own 
name. "Well," she exclaimed, "why 
didn't you just call me a cat, and then it 
would be easy to spell? Big names 
make little girls tired." 



A Canadian teacher fell heir to an 
English estate of ^20,000. In the 
lawyer's office the clerks made bets as to 
how she would take it. One thought she 
would scream, two were of opinion she 
would burst into tears, two others 
favored hysterics. Her reply to the 
messenger was disconcerting: "I shall 
finish my monthly report, hear these 
spelling errors, whip two boys and be 
at your office in forty minutes." — 
Century. 



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151 



152 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Delights of Food Eaten Al Fresco 

(Continued from page 101) 

the grassy lawns of the Bois were turned 
into a convenient pasturage for Paris' 
supply of butchers' meat on the hoof; 
at which time flocks of sheep browsed 
pastorally in the fashionable precincts 
of the Pre Catalan's ample enclosure, 
and Longchamps sporty cafe-restau- 
rants looked blankly down upon thou- 
sands of country beeves and cows 
herded on the famous race-course. For- 
tunately for Paris and all its world of 
lovers this unpleasant phase passed 
rapidly, and while eating al fresco has 
naturally lost some of its accompanying 
gayety, society, though much militar- 
ized and somewhat shorn of its spark- 
ling attractiveness, still flocks to a cool 
repast in the umbrageous shades of its 
beloved Bois much as it always did. 

In an even livelier vein, and a more 
unconventional manner, has the banal 
habit of taking three meals a day been 
diverted from a mere absorption of 
sustenance into a popular amusement 
for the versatile French through the 
medium of numerous waterside eating 
places which line the bosky banks of the 
Seine as it wanders leisurely in many 
winding loops through and around Paris 
as if, like all the world, its silvery stream 
was reluctant to leave the city. 

The character and environment of 
these Seine-side open-air restaurants 
are designed to please the taste of the 
French who, when they graft rural 
pleasures on to their sophisticated 
existences, demand that they be served 
in an amusing and bizarre manner. For 
this they flock joyously to these subur- 
ban resorts, for the charm to them of 
dining out of doors is to accomplish it in 
some freak place in fantastic style, may- 
be in a tiny rustic summerhouse with a 
thatched roof of straw as on the farm, 
in arbors perched high on wall, and 
terraces overhanging the river, in imita- 
tion boats and even in huts hung peril- 
ously on the lower branches of trees, on 



one or another of the many ilots which 
dot the river below Billancourt. 

Many of these aquatic resorts bear 
fantastic appellations such as "Res- 
taurant of the Miraculous Fishes," the 
"Blue Pavilion," the "Boudoir Rose" 
or the "Green Arbor," a colorful nomen- 
clature to attract the throng for their 
almost universal specialty of "friture de 
la Seine,'' minnowy fish from the Seine, 
grilled entire. 

For the still more freakish, hilarious 
form of dining in the trees, one climbs, 
at "Robinson," into the branches of 
great chestnuts where are set platforms 
and tables lighted by swinging lanterns 
to the blare of the calliopes of many 
merry-go-rounds, open-air theatres and 
side-shows of this popular amusement 
ground of the Parisians. 

No sooner does the guest appear at the 
French country hotel than it is assumed 
that he wishes to take his meals in the 
open, whatever outdoor dining-room the 
hotel may afford. If it be not demanded 
by those wise in French customs, it is 
usually artfully suggested as one of the 
chief attractions the house has to offer. 
The little bonne, or gar con, most oblig- 
ingly hurries to spread the table, bring- 
ing everything necessary many steps 
across from the pantry with never a 
thought of objecting to the extra labor 
involved, looking upon it as a part of the 
summer routine of work. It cools the 
plates, some one complains. May be — 
a trifle. No enjoyment is perfect. But 
in the French country hotel they are now 
beginning to take notice that les et- 
rangers must have hot plates from which 
to eat their food, though one is cool 
oneself, quite as important adjuncts to a 
good repast as anything could possible 
be, and amusing. After, all is this not 
what one goes a- journeying for? 

French country hotels are well ad- 
apted to this pleasant custom, fre- 
quently being built around a central 
courtyard, often a garden enclosing 
shade-trees and neatly gravelled walks, 
around which are set rows of little iron 



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dishes. It is highly nourishing. 

Kornlet is the concentrated, 
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The Kornlet recipe 
folder 

oflfers really new and 
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Write for free copy. 

Grocers sell Kornlet, 25^ 

The Haserot Canneries 

Company 
Dept. 2 Cleveland, Ohio 



A^ 



p REMO -y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

Heavy cream is especially undesir- 
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Your family wants ice cream, mousse, 
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economical made from thin cream or half 
heavy cream and milk with 

;Y'ESCO 



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A 25 cent bottle may be used for the average 
size family 50 times. If your grocer does not 
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day. A 16 ounce bottle whips 75 quarts of thin 
cream, $1.00 prepaid. 

Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
153 



154 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tables and chairs — the sort of thing the 
French call "garden furniture." Or the 
tables may be set under gay, striped 
umbrellas which contrast prettily with 
the green foliage, or in little bosquets — 
summer-houses smothered in ivy or 
roses, where the diners will be assured of 
as much privacy as in a salon particulier 
in the Elysee Palace Hotel. 

It is this sort of thing one finds so often 
in Normandy, in the little wayside inn 
of some famous touring centre of this 
most charming of old French provinces, 
where one hears English — of a kind — 
spoken quite as much as the native 
language. At night one dines in a little 
bower under electric lights swung 
through the shrubbery, which glows 
supernaturally and gives a stage-lighted 
effect to the little garden and its diner, 
who may be in full dinner dress, if at one 
of the famous inns — cradles of history 
and romance which line the Normandy 
coast, and of which the Hostellerie of 
Guillaume le Conquerant is certainly the 
most famous — the favored rallying place 
of the French for the sole amusement of 
dining out of doors in a manner ''si bien 
Francaise.'' 

It may be that the little hotel boasts 
only of a cobble-stoned courtyard, as is 
frequently found in other parts of 
France, but,- nevertheless, it will be 
utilized for an open air dining-room 
most appropriately; walls, otherwise un- 
sightly, are clothed with a trellis of 
green-painted lattice which serves as a 
frame for clambering vines, the whole 
bounded on three sides by the cuisine, 
the "offices" and the remise, or stable, 
now most likely modernized into a 
garage, in contrast to its ancient 
functions. Here one may dine in com- 
pany, as it were, with one's automobile, 
and the country carts that keep it 
company are of an epoch contemporary 
with the cabriolets of the days of the 
"Sentimental Traveller." The family 
of cats, or the household dog look on in 
friendly fashion and attach themselves 
to the diners as possible recipients of an 



expected bounty, and are rarely disap- 
pointed. There may be cages of singing 
birds hung about, trilling accompani- 
ments to the clatter of knives and forks, 
or perhaps a gaudy parrot that shrilly 
calls out ''bon jour," or a soft-cooing 
wood-pigeon hidden in a leafy corner; 
for the French adore pets, and they 
add much to the lively setting of the 
outdoor salle a manger. 

There are numbers of these pictur- 
esque little wayside inns tucked away 
in unpretentious, half -hidden nooks 
throughout the French countryside, 
many of which have been hallowed as 
the stage-settings of recent popular 
novels, as, for instance, Tarkington's 
"Guest of Quesnay," Chamber's "Girl 
Philippa," Blanche Willis Howard's 
"Quenn," Locke's "Beloved Vagabond" 
et als. But they are all alike; one 
would have done as well as another, 
though they were all real, the character- 
istics, and details varying little from 
the simplicity and excellence of French 
standards. The reality only goes to 
make their halo of romance more 
brilliant. 

There are innumerable charmingly 
antique roadhouses dating from the days 
of the poste-chaise, the berlin-de-voyage 
and the coach-and-four, about whose 
ancient doorways are to be seen gathered 
today, even in spite of the war, auto- 
mobiles of all marques and of all lands, 
sought out by a cosmopolitan clientele, 
not alone because of their attractiveness 
replete with souvenirs of other days, but 
for the pleasurable variety they offer 
the devotee of this French sport of 
eating in the open air. 

In this category belongs the fame 
of the Hostellerie Guillaume le Con- 
querant, so widely reputed that it 
brings the touring world up to its quaint 
timbered Norman gateway in throngs, 
the same from which, legend tells, that 
William the Conqueror set out when he 
led the hardy Normans to raise his 
standard of the twin leopards over 
English soil. This not alone for the 



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Look at the label 
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bottle 



^: 



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In some poor seasons the 
oanilla plantations yield 
no genuine first quality 
beans. At such times no 
beans are bought for Bur- 
nett's Vanilla because it 
must contain only the choic- 
est of the crop. Enough 
is kept in reserve to hold 
to its standard of quality 
when the crop so fails. 



Vanilla Ice Cream 

Heat V2 pint of milk in double 
boiler and dissolve in it ^A cup 
of sugar. When cool add a pint 
of cream slightly whipped — and 
then two teaspoonfuls of Bur- 
nett's Vanilla. Alix thoroughly 
and freeze in the usual fashion. 
This makes one quart. 



^ 



It probably reads *'pure" vanilla 
— it certainly should. But if it 
does, are you helped much? 
Good flour is '*pure'' wheat — 
/ and so is poor flour; good coffee 

is *'pure''— and so is much very 
i bad coffee. Different countries 

"^ produce many kinds of Vanilla 

beans — good, bad and indiffer- 
ent — all ''pure'' vanilla. But 
in only one spot in the world is 
the vanilla bean brought to its 
.'.^% final pitch of perfection — the 

mountain valleys of Mexico. 
Here only are grown, gathered 
and cured the beans that make 







It is certainly worth while to use a vanilla extract with 
so rare and exquisite a flavor that even plain desserts 
become a treat. As for. the heights which can la 
reached by using Burnett's in more elaborate dishes — • 
ask anyone who uses it — probably your Mother does. 

DESSERT BOOK — FREE 

Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy of "115 
Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful. 

Joseph Burnett Company 

36 India St., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goodt 



- Do not accept substitutes 
155 



156 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



pleasure of admiring and coveting its 
antiques housed under the ancient 
black-timbered roof -tree which has shel- 
tered so many distinguished heads in its 
thousand years of existence, as for the 
cachet of a luncheon, or a dinner which 
the guests are privileged to order them- 
selves in the sombre, time-mellowed 
kitchen hung about with a marvelous 
and authentically valuable batterie de 
cuisine of glittering old coppers and 
brasses and brightly colored faience. 

At an appreciable interval later the 
specially cooked repast will be served 
in the inn's quaint garden courtyard 
against a background of clambering 
roses and honeysuckle interspersed with 
many a bit of rare old sculpture and 
time-hallowed relics. This is a savantly 
composed meal from a cuisine of the 
ultra-premier-class, set upon a stage 
garlanded with choice flowers, amid a 
charming present as well as a most 
romantic past. 

Another of these country inns of the 
class is that of "La Belle Ernestine," 
which, though but a farmhouse many 
generations old, folded away discreetly 
in one of the tiny pastoral valleys that 
lie among the white cliffs of the Norman 
sea coast, has nevertheless a reputation 
as a literary and artistic shrine the envy 
of much more worldly and pretentious 
hostelries. 

For more than half a century it has 
been presided over by its peasant 
mistress — Ernestine, and has been the 
gathering place of the most brilliant 
of the grand flambeaux of French art 
and letters. Its few modest rooms are 
filled to overflowing with the priceless 
souvenirs of genius, presented to the 
chatelaine who, though snowy locks now 
gleam from under her Norman coiffe, 
still deserves the sobriquet of her 
admirers of long ago — *7a belle Ernes- 
tine ^ 

Today the most worldly and frivolous, 
as well as art lovers, consider it a 
privilege to go miles off the beaten 
track of restless latter-day wanderings. 



in order to dine a la campagne, seated on 
backless benches at a long table covered 
with coarse country linen — and at a 
stiff price too — in the garden of the inn j 
which has ever been known as "la Belle I 
Ernestine" (in default of any other 
name,) amid a wealth of old-fashioned 
flowers in which once Dumas, Flaubert, 
Isabey, Corot and others of their con- 
temporaries bred golden bon mots be- 
tween sips of golden Norman cider and 
the degustation of "la belle Ernestine's" 
specious cuisine. 

These are only a few of the more 
widely known of French inns whose 
out-in-the-open dining-rooms are 
known to all good gourmets. They can 
be discovered in countless beauty dim- 
ples that peep out from the fair face of 
France, from Brittany to Finistere and 
from Biarritz to Boulogne. 



Rev. Russell Day, a famous Eton 
master, once ordered a boy to stay after 
school; but, when the hour came, he 
himself was in a better temper. "What 
may your name be?" Mr. Day asked of 
the prepositor. "Cole, sir," replied the 
boy. "Then, my friend," said Mr. Day, 
' ' I think you had better scuttle . " 



Mrs. Exe: "You always have such 
wonderful success in getting people to 
come to your parties." Mrs. Wye: "Oh, 
I always tell the men that it's not to 
be a dress-up affair, and the women that 
it is." — Boston Transcript. 



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It Protects Health and 
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In some homes it is forced. It is made a duty but not a luxury. 
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In some homes the oat dish is a dainty. Its flakes are made of 
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- Do not accept substitutes 
157 



158 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Simplified Bungalow Life 

(Continued from page 117) 
relentless one hundred and two meals. 
If there are several members of the 
family of workable age, let each have 
a part in the daily routine without 
regard to sex. The cook should be the 
honored official of the household, and 
will do well to refuse absolutely to 
prepare vegetables, wash dishes or 
wait on table. Exempted from these 
duties the cooking need not be such a 
torturous process, even on a hot day. 
Let there be a correlation of shelling 
peas or stringing beans with hand 
embroidery, for one can be made as 
cultural an occupation as the other. 
Try the experiment of converting the 
front porch, that time-honored ren- 
dezvous of the family, into a household 
arts and crafts shop, and let as many of 
the kitchen industries be plied there as 
possible. The average boy would as 



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for Women, Misses and Children, 

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The OBLONG Rubber Button Cljisp 

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Holds Without Holes! 

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Women's and Misses* Sew-ons (four). 

GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON 




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soon whittle beans as sticks, and a little 
rather, if he thought his dinner depended 
on it; and is there not quite enough 
science and industrial chemistry in the 
making of a good cake to command his 
respect and interest? I think there is. 
Boys make quite as good waiters as 
girls, and sometimes better. Recently 
at a bungalow house-party I saw a very 
promising young doctor "clear up" the 
dishes after a festive dinner in so pro- 
fessional a fashion as to put to shame the 
average housewife, and snatch the 
laurels from our "Domestic Scientists." 
Conserve these natural resources of 
splendid power and efficiency in your 
own household and let them settle the 
help problem during your vacation. 
Think what it would mean to many a 
"kitchenless" maiden or hall-room boy 
to come face to face with a cook stove 
or a dish pan! It means racial develop- 
ment along the basic lines. 



Ten-year-old James takes his father 
as a delightful joke, and does not al- 
ways mind him promptly. One day 
his mother listened at the top of the 
stairs. "James," said the father's voice, 
"do what I tell you!" The boy looked 
up and grinned. His mother smiled 
and awaited the outcome. "Jim," said 
the father, solemnly, "you do what I 
told you, or" — he lowered his voice — 
"I'll sick your mother onto you!" 



The following letter is a rare example : 
"My Darling Peggy, — I met you last 
night, and you never came! I'll meet 
you again to-night, whether you come 
or whether you stop away. If I'm 
there first, sure I'll write my name on 
the gate to tell you of it; and, if it's 
you that's first, why rub it out, darling, 
and no one will be the wiser. I'll never 
fail to be at the trystin'-place, Peggy; 
for, faith, I can't keep away from the 
spot where you are, whether you're 
there or whether you're not. Your 
own, Mike." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




It^s easy Baking 

in this transparent 

Oven Ware 




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Use Pyrex in any oven. It does not crack, chip 
nor craze. 

Pyrex does not absorb odors. It is easily washed, 
is sanitary and durable. 




i^y^MPiy 



Trade Mark Registered 



Baking Ware 



Has the name on every piece 



Food bakes quickly in Pyrex, hence retains its flavor. 

You can see the food through the dish while it bakes — the bottom 

as well as the top — and you serve in the same dish. 

Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 15 c. to large casseroles at $2. 

Your house-wares dealer sells Pyrex. Ask him for booklet. 

CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave., Corning, N.Y., U.S.A. 



J V, 




.A._ 



<^^^' 



-=■ 



Casserole 



Oblong Bread Pan 



Petite Marmite 



Oval All Gratin 



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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes' 
159 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




TRY 

Sea Moss Farine 

FOR 

Hot Weather Delicacies 

ICE CREAM, LEMONADE, 

ORANGEADE, PUNCH, 

FRUIT SOUPS. 

Delicious Ice Cream, the velvety kind but 
without that greasiness which pure cream 
gives, is made with Sea Moss Farine. Try 
this recipe : 

I cup sugar 06 

y^ teaspoonful Sea Moss Farine 00% 

I quart milk 09 

sprinkle of salt and flavor ■■• .00% 

Makes \V2 Quarts good ice cream for .16 

This is tasty, wholesome and cheap. A 
more expensive grade is produced by 
adding sweet cream or eggs if French Ice 
Cream is desired. 

Sea Moss Lemonade is better than tea, 
coffee or alcoholic drinks. To the tired 
man, woman or child, Sea Moss Farine 
beverages will be found both satisfying 
and nourishing. Try some at night before 
retiring. You will sleep better and awake 
refreshed. 

I cup sugar 06 

% teaspoonful Sea Moss Farine ooMi 

Put into pint cold water with thin peel 

of one lemon and cup lemon juice .10 

Total cost only... .i6y2 

These and many other recipes are found in 
Mrs. Lemcke's Recipe Book, " Seventy -five 
Tempting Dishes. ' ' Send for your copy and 
sample of Sea Moss Farine, both FREE. 



25 cents at good Grocers 
or by mail direcft. 




LYON MANUFACT'NG CO., 

38 South Fifth Street, 

BROOKLYN, N.Y. 



How to Fertilize 

THE soil in the average back yard 
is not only lacking in plant food 
but also has been packed until it is hard 
and unyielding. To loosen up such 
soil and make it suitable for garden 
produce requires that careful attention 
be given to its preparation. After 
spading the inclosure thoroughly, the 
upper three inches should be made fine 
with the use of hoe and rake. Stones 
and rubbish should be removed and 
clods of dirt broken. The surface 
should be made even and as level as 
possible. It may then be marked off 
for planting in conformity with the 
general plan of the garden. 

Barnyard or stable manure is the best 
fertilizer because it furnishes both plant 
food and humus. An application at the 
rate of from 20 to 30 tons to the acre of 
well-rotted manure is very satisfactory. 
This should be applied after plowing or 
working with a spade, and distributed 
evenly over the surface and later worked 
in with a hoe and rake. On many soils 
it is advisable to apply commercial fer- 
tilizer, especially phosphate, in addition 
to the manure. An application of 300 
to 600 pounds of acid phosphate to the 
acre is usually sufficient. If additional 
potash is needed, which is often the 
case with sandy soils, this may be eco- 
nomically supplied in the form of wood 
ashes. If the wood ashes are unleached 
they should be distributed over the gar- 
den, using 1,000 pounds to the acre. If 
they have been wet, or leached, 2,000 
pounds should be used. An appli- 
cation of 100 pounds to the acre of 
nitrate of soda may be used in the spring 
to start the plants before the nitrogen in 
the manure has become available. It 
should be borne in mind that commercial 
fertilizers will not yield good results 
unless the soil is well supplied with 
humus. Sod or other vegetation which 
has overgrown a garden spot may be 
used to advantage. It should be turned 
under with a plow or a spade and will 
aid in lightening the soil and providing 
humus. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
160 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




i 




RICE ICE CREAM with NABISCO 
Boil two and one-half tablespoonf uls of rice 
in a pint of milk with ihree-fourths cf a 
cupful of sugar, a pinch ot salt, and a split 
vanilla bean until tender. Rub through a 
sieve and when cold add one-half cupful of 
chopped almonds, one-fourth cupful of 6ne 
sugar, one pint of whipped cream and two 
stifHy beaten whites of eggs. Freeze and 
serve in sherbet glasses with Nabisco. 






WHEN desserts are served, Nabisco Sugar Wafers 
should accompany them as a matter of course, for 
these exquisite confections add the final touch of delicious- 
ness to ice creams, frozen puddings or ^vater ices. 

The recipe for Rice Ice Cream given above is original. It 
was created especially for use vvith Nabisco, so the hostess 
who serves Rice Ice Cream and Nabisco at her next 
"at home" will furnish a delightful surprise to her guests. 

Nabisco Sugar Wafers are sold in ten-cent and twenty-five-cent tins. 

ANOLA — Another sugar- wafer confection. 
Serve anjrwhere, any time, with any dessert. 



NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY 

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
161 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



No. 351 




On every 
piece " 



A beautiful comport for jellies 
bon-tons, salted nuts ^relishes 

At your dealer's, or $1.00 delivered East of the Missouri 
River. $1.25 delivered West of the Missouri River, 
Florida, Maine and Canada. 

A. H. HEISEY & CO., Dept. 56, Newark, O. 

Write /or illustrated booklet 



iHEI5EY'5i 



iGLASEiWAREi 



rOR- TME • TABLE 



Prejudice Gives Way To 
Knowledge 

Old prejudices, fostered by 
the extensive campaigns of 
advertising conducted by the 
Baking Powder Tiust, against 
baking powder containing 
alum, have been swept from the 
minds of thinking people by the 
publication of the Report on 
Alum in Foods, issued as Bulle- 
tin No. 103 of the U.S. Depart, 
ment of Agriculture.* This report 
is made by the Referee Board of 
Consulting Scientific Experts. 

Prof. IraRemsen, (John Hopkins Univ. ) 
Chairman. 
Dr. John D. Long, (Northwestern Univ.) 
Prof. Theobald Smith, (Harvard Univ.) 
Prof. Alonzo E.Taylor, (Univ.of Penn.) 
Dr. Russell H. Chittenden, (Sheffield 

Scientific School of Yale Univ.) 

The conclusion of the Remsen Board, has once 
and for all, put an end to the foolish claims that 
alum is either injurious or unwholesome as an 
ingredient in baking powder. 

* Complete copy C professional paper) may be procured from the 
Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Wash- 
in9:ton, D. C, at five cents per copy. 

CALUMET 

BAKI NG POWDER 



Women's Club and Shakespeare's 
Centenary 

A literary club was recently organized 
by women in a suburban town, not 
specified by the N. Y. Times-Maga- 
zine, which relates the story. For a 
while everything went along beautifully. 

One evening, while the Browns were 
having dinner, Mr. Brown asked: 

''Well, Inez, did you have a pleasant 
meeting at your club this afternoon?" 

"Oh, yes, dear," replied Mrs. Brown, 
with great enthusiasm. "It was really 
a splendid meeting. About the best 
we have had, I think." 

"Indeed," said the husband, who 
was not a firm believer in women's 
clubs, "what was the topic under dis- 
cussion to-day?" 

Mrs. Brown couldn't seem to re- 
member at first. Finally, however, 
she exclaimed triumphantly: 

"Oh, yes, I remember! We discussed 
that brazen-looking woman with red 
hair that's just moved in across the 
street, and Shakespeare." 



Raisin Bread 



% cup sugar 

4 tablespoonfuls lard (h* 

butter 
f cup raisins 
1 teaspoonful salt 



1 cake compressed 

yeast 
1 cup lukewarm water 
1 cup milk, scalded 

and cooled 
6 cups sifted flour 

Dissolve yeast and one tablespoonful 
sugar in lukewarm liquid, add two 
cups of flour, the lard or butter and 
sugar well-creamed, and beat until 
smooth. Cover and set aside to rise 
in a warm place, free from draft, until 
light — about one and one-half hours. 
When well-risen, add raisins well-floured 
the rest of the flour to make a soft 
dough, and lastly the salt. Knead 
lightly. Place in well-greased bowl, 
cover and let rise again until double 
in bulk — about one and one-half hours. 
Mould into loaves, fill well-greased 
pans half full, cover and let rise until 
light — about one hour. Glace with 
^%g diluted with water, and bake 
forty-five minutes. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
162 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



n 



— ior every recipe 





Whenever a recipe calls for milk 
use Carnation Milk 



You always add its quality to your 
cooking and baking. It makes bet- 
ter-flavored food; it is convenient 
and economical to use. Carnation 
Milk is the only milk supply your 
home needs. 

Add an equal amount of pure water 
to Carnation Milk and you "bring it 
back" to its original state, with the 
added betterment of purity and 
safety. If you have been using 
skimmed milk for cooking, simply add 
more water to reduce the richness. 



Carnation Milk is convenient, eco- 
nomical, safe. Buy it of your 
grocer — "the Carnation Milkman." 
Order two or three cans now — try it 
— and let your own experience with 
it convince you that it answers the 
milk question. 

Our new recipe book gives over 100 every- 
day and special uses. Write for a free copy to 

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS 

COMPANY 

858 Stuart Bldg., Seattle, U.S.A. 



Ask your grocer— "the Carnation Milkman' 



^ 



mi"3n®ia 




r^yr^Ty 



Maajk 



^^ii.<:^i.A.jyi^^mikM 



The answer to the mtlk question 



W<, BRAND ■ t 






Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
163 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



llllllll 




A 

Mokist 

Lemon 



Does This — 

Polishing Glassware. 

To clean glass to a 
sparkle, wash in cold 
water to which Sunkist 
Lemon juice has been 
added. Do not use hot 
water or soap. 





— and This 

Taking Out Stains. 

Moisten stained goods with 
cold water. Lay in the sun, 
squeeze on few drops of 
Sunkjst Lemon juice. Let it 
dry and repeat till stain is 
gone. For iron rust and ink 
stains or mildew add pinch of 
salt. Only for white goods. 



Cleansing Kitchen- 
ware. Save Sunkist 
Lemon rinds from which 
juice has been squeezed and 
use to remove grease from 
pots, pans, dishes and sinks. 
Rub your hands with pulp 
side of rind after washing 
dishes. This whitens and 
softens the skin. 




— and many other things 




California's Selected Lemons j 

Practically Seedless 1 

These are the world's best lemons, chosen M 

for quality and color. Picked by gloved hands, J 

scrubbed -mith brushes, and shipped to your g 

dealer in sanitary tissue xorappers^ g 

Don't order merely "lemons' ' which cost the J 

same when you can get juicy, tart, clean "Sun- g 

kist." All first-class dealers sell them. g 

CALIFORNIA FRUIT GROWERS EXCHANGE | 

Co-operative — Non-profit ^ 

Dept. B 74. Los Angeles, Calif. M 

(573) g 



Reading the Dictionary 

Mr. Rudyard Kipling finds both pleas- 
ure and profit in reading the dictionary, 
and this habit largely accounts for his 
wonderful knowledge of words, his rich 
vocabulary and his newness in the use 
of words. He does not confine himself 
to the ordinary dictionary. He likes 
to look at a slang edition or a dictionary 
of a dialect. 

There is a certain noble lord who 
loves nothing better than turning over 
the pages of Bradshaw, spying out all 
the ways to anywhere, all the branch 
lines, and noting the railway stations 
with queer names. He is an adept in 
all railway lore, and is often referred to 
by his brother peers when a moot point 
is raised about the iron roads of the 
world, for his knowledge extends from 
Charing Cross to New York, via Yoko- 
hama. 

A great fondness for the Encyclope- 
dia Britannica characterizes a well- 
known and popular novelist. He will 
often be found sitting in his delightful 
old-world garden reading an article on 
navigation or aeronautics. He confesses 
that generally he takes down a volume 
at random and reads on the same prin- 
ciple, only occasionally deliberately 
choosing a topic. 

But probably the queerest literary 
hobby was a certain doctor's predilec- 
tion for reading an old file of the Times. 
He said it made him better contented 
with things at present to see how things 
were muddled up 20 years ago. He 
found the politicians just as quarrelsome 
and the comments just as caustic, and 
yet he concluded: 

"Here we are, much as usual!" — 
London Answers. 



Fairly Won 

**Mr. Wombat seems very sure of his 
wife's love." 

"He has every right to. Theirs was a 
highbrow courtship, and he won out in 
a competitive contest comprising seven 
exhaustive papers." — Kansas City Jour- 
nal. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
164 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



After the Walk 

-gour first and best thought is 




Oftenest thought of for its deliciousness 
— highest thought of for its wholesome- 
ness. Refreshing and thirst-quenching. 

Demand the genuine by full name — 
nicknames encourage substitution. 



•,a 



nm 




Buy advertised Goods — ^Do not accept substitutes 
165 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Saves 
Time 



Saves 
Trouble 



Saves 
Money 



This Single Damper is the greatest Time, 
Trouble and Money Saving device ever 
put in a stove. You get it only in 

(r& wlord 



Saves 
Time 



Saves 
Trouble 



Saves 
Money 



Because one motion of the always- 
cool knob regulates fire and oven 
instantly. Bakes — Checks — 
Kindles. 

Because it makes good cooking a 
habit. There can be no scorched 
or underdone food due to an un- 
certain oven. Even heat always. 

Because it makes the fire serve your 
wish. You get the heat where and 
when you want it. Less coal — 
less expense. 

It will be a good lesson in scientific cookery for 
you to investigate the Single Damper and 1 9 
other distinctive Crawford advantages. 

Sold by Leading Dealers 

Walker & Pratt Mfg. Co. 

Makers of Highest Quality 
Ranges, Furnaces and Boilers 

Boston^ U. S. A. 



Among the latest devices which have 
been drav^n to our attention can be 
mentioned the "Easy Freezer," which 
is a simple apparatus for the making 
of ice cream. 

This freezer is a very simple affair, 
economical, and attractive in appear- 
ance. It consists of a small container 
or jar with an enameled white finish, 
inside of which is the depository for 
the cream, either a quart or half- 
gallon size around which is packed 
about two cents' worth of ice and a 
quantity of salt. The latter in turn, 
is surrounded by an air space. As 
the ice and salt melt an intense cold 
is created and the cream is frozen solid 
in half an hour's time. The ice is 
pulverized until it is about the size 
of lump sugar — and a small quantity 
of dry and clean salt is used, commonly 
known as ice cream salt, or rock salt. 
All metal parts coming in contact with 
the cream are heavily tinned and the 
freezer in every way is absolutely sani- 
tary and hygienic. 



We have an 

Attractive 

Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

American Gookery 

Write us for it if you wish to canvass 
your town or if you wish to secure 
only a few names among your friends 
and acquaintances. Start the work 
at once and you will be surprised how 
easily you can earn ten, twenty or 
fifty dollars. 

Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
166 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




'•> v»- 



'^r^s- 



Pineapple Tapioca 

Boil ]/2 cup Minute Tapioca, Yz cup 
of sugar, and a pinch of salt in 4 
cups of water till clear Remo\e 
from fire and add 1 cup pineapple 
grated or chopped with \, cup of 
sugar Ser\e with cream This 
IS shown serv ed on a slice of canned 
pineapple with whipped cream and 
whole nut on top. 




Raspberry Tapioca 

Cook for fifteen minutes in a double 
boiler }/2 cup Minute Tapioca Yy 
cup sugar, 1 teaspoon butter and 
3 cups of hot water Crush 1 pint 
raspberries, 'sweeten to ta'^te and 
let stand one-half hour Take the 
tapioca from the fire and stir in the 
fruit vSet in a cool place It 
should be ser\ed \er\ cold This 
dessert is delicious scr\ed with 
whipped cream Shown 
in sherbet glass. 




Neapolitan Jelly 

DissoUe 2 en\ elopes Minute Gela- 
tine and 1 cup sugar in 2 cup^ of 
bo'ling water Divide into three 
parts Color one part pink and 
favor with rose Leave one part 
Rhite and flavor with lemon The 
third part color with dissolved 
cocoa Beat each part as it begins 
to jell and mold separate flavors 
in after-dinner coffee cups or small 
molds Serve as shown with 
whipped cream and whole nuts 



Gold Medal of Honor, Highest 
Award at Panama-Pacific Ex- 
position, Awardetl Minute 
Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. 




Send for Minute Cook Book 
Containing Recipes for 
124 Delicious 
Desserts 



Measured 
for use 

You can always be sure that ISrinute 

Gelatine is going to stiffen. It is put up 

in envelopes, each containing the right amount for 

a pint of jelly. Dissolves quickly in boiling water, 

hot milk or broth. 

There are a host of ways to serve Minute Gelatine — ■ 
in Salads, Puddings, Pies and Jellies. Dishes made 
^\lth it are tempting to the taste and attractive to the 
eye. The Minute Cook Book tells you all about 
these. With this Book we will send you a 
sample package of Minute Gelatine, 
enough for a dessert for 
4 persons. 




Requires 
No Soaking 

Minute Tapioca saves time It 
cooks in 15 minutes PriLe ISc for 
full size 10-oz package nidkmii si\ quaits 
of pudding or 12 generous desserts for the aver- 
age familv Recipes showing how v ou can make 
a large \arietv of 15-minute delicious desserts 
are in the Mmute Cook Book Send for it to- 
dav With Minute Gelatine and Alinute Tapioca 
in the house, v ou can alvvav s prepare a tcmptinE; 
dessert on 'Jhort notice Kindlv mention > our 
giocer's name m writing for the book. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY 

808 E. Main St., Orange, Mass. 




Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
167 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



I f'w 




MAKES PERFECT ICE CREAM WITHOUT WORK OR 
MESS — NO SALT CAN GET IN CREAM 

Fill cream space with ingredients — pack ice space with 
chopped ice and salt — that's all. Science does the work 
y6u formerly did turning the handle, producing smooth ice 
cream in 30 minutes. 

The Easy Freezer has only three simple, heavily enamelled, easy to clean 
parts. No water soaked bucket to handle — ^no complicated locking devices 
to rust, freeze tight or get out of order. 

The Easy Freezer is made in one and two quart sizes and in white and 
olive green finish. It is the simplest of all freezers. 

No Handle To Turn 

Get your Easy Freezer now — enjoy the pleasure 
of frozen desserts as often as you like without work 
or trouble. 

If your dealer cannot supply you, send us S2.50 for 1-quart size, or 
$3.50 for 2-quart size; specify white or green finish — we'll send it, 
all charges prepaid. Add 50c to price for all points west of Rockies. 

Write for FREE Descriptive Booklet. 

WM. A. SEXTON COMPANY, 3775 Grand Central Terminal, New York 






^-^ TRAot "*»•«_, , ,. , 1 1 • r r 1 


f TMf TCf T A I Dinner and Luncheon Menus containing 183 recipes. 
U W UDU AL Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deUv- 
ered32c. Address King's Daughters Society, 2320 E. l8tSt..Dulnth,Minn. 


Fa:,. Jv« leugLlieiis Lhe life of hosiery, 

yROTEGTOE v'enSCre"rsr.?^^'S- 

1 apply. Can be used on silk, cotton or ^^^ 
.4 woolen hose. Perfectly harmless. Send ^^^ 
15c. for trial size and special offer of one.^^^ 
lar^e package to help introduce it. Agents wanted. 
W. F.MiUlen Lab.. Dept.A. 3853 St. Louis Ave., St.Louis. 


Domestic Science 

Home-Study Covirses 


Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins: ''Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents. 
' Five Cent Meals," 10 cents. 

AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69ih St., CHICAGO 


POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALVS^AYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 



1 




I want to put a White Frost ... , < r .....^c^ ^.^ „ i^oi..^ -_ dial. Postal brin::^ 

free catalog. Tell me what style you like best. Send no money— i mu pay 
freight — so you can find out what a real refrigerator is like. Send it back at 
my expense if I am wrong. I make the only round metal refrigerator in the 
world. I have no dealers, but sell direct to you. You can buy a vv hite !> rost 
on easy terms while enjojing its beauty, sanitation, ice economy ana moaern 
improvements. Enameled snowy-white inside and out; revolving shelves; 
cork-cushioned floors and covers — noiseless and air tight. Cooling coil for 
drinking water new feature. Nickel trimmings. Move-easy 
casters. Many features found in no other refrigerator. 
Awarded Gold Medal at Panama-Pacific Exposition. Lasts a 
lifetime. Immediate delivery. 

Handsome catalog and factory prices yours for a postal. 
H. L. Smith, President 

^.'HITE FROST REFRIGERATOR COMPANY 
. hanic St. Jackson, Michigan 



H. L. Smith, 
President 



ITHE GRILST 

WhiteFfost 

SANITARY 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
168 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




THE CALL OF THE WISE 

"HELLO Mr. Grocer! For Goodness Sake send me 

STICKNEY & POOR'S 
STANDARD VANILLA 

I want no other kind." That is the familiar call these days. 
Stickney & Poor's Flavoring Extracts are sold in popular 10c and 
20c sizes. They are made with conscientious care, of the choicest 
materials and absolutely pure. The guarantee of a factory with 
over a hundred years' reputation for high grade manufacturing is 
sufficient for everybody who knows Stickney & Poor goods. For 
Goodness Sake, when you order Flavorings say "Stickney&Poor's" 
to your grocer. Yonr Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT." 



STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY 

ISlS-Centary Old— Century Honored- -1916 ., 
BOSTON. MASS. 





Condensed 
MILK 



Is ''Eagle Brand'' Good 
for Cooking? 

Indeed it is! Thousands of women who pride 
themselves on their skill in cooking use it when 
they want their cakes and puddings to be especially 
smooth and delicate. Use it just as you would 
fresh milk in every recipe that calls for milk and 
sugar. It keeps well — even in hottest weather. 

"Eagle Brand" is the milk that has brought 
three generations of babies safely through their 
first year. It may be just the food your baby needs. 

BORDENS 

— that is thename 
to remember 
when you buy 
milk or milk pro- 
ducts. 







An Efficient Pure Food Dessert. 



life 




^ 



In the story of Daddy Long Legs when Judy is writing about the happiness of her college 
she tells of having Junket for supper. 

The Junket Folks also have another pure food product called tSSSfMH If Judy had had 
MESfMH for her supper no doubt she would have written her 
dear Daddy Long Legs about the ease with which it is made. 

The sugar and flavoring are already added, nothing but warm 
milk necessary to make flESfMFi pudding. 

Ice Cream made with KBSIMH is heakhful, economical, and 
delicious. 

CHOCOLATE KESRliF3 PUDDING 
One Quart Milk. One 10 cent Package Chocolate ClESMdH 

Heat one quart of milk luke -warm, remove from stove and pour into it 
one 10 cent package of Chocolate Nesnah. Stir for one half minute, pour 
into small glass cups and let stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes or 
until set. Put aw^ay to chill and serve ■with a little -whipped cream. 

SIX PURE FLAVORS 

Vanilla Chocolate Lemon 

Orange Raspberry Almond 

A postcard from you will bring a FREE SAMPLE and a Booklet of Recipes 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, Inc., Box. 2507, LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
169 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Please the palate and save the 
stomach by eating more good bread 

Fleischmann*s Yeast 

makes good bread and various 
other toothsome things. Our new 
recipe book tells how — free for the 
asking. 

The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



These 



•mark ^riascixMS 



package 



SPECIAbvBIBTETIC 

rUULI kidM anXiver troubles 

J£QUira|(RATha STRICT DIET 

Unlike other goodar ^^k ydl|c physician. 

Leading jfocers^^or bookor san|cle, write 

FARWELL & RHINES. Watertown, N?V., U. S. A. 



lESSONS IN COOKING ^JTST^: 

^^266 seaaonable menui with detailed redpea and fuO directions for pre- 
paring each meal. Food Economy, Balfinced Diet, Menus for all Oeca- 
ilons. Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette. 480 pp. 
Illustrated. Sent on approval for 60o and 60c for 4 months or 12 Gasn. 

Sample Paget free. 
American School of Home Economics, £03 W. 69th St,, Chicago, HI. 



IBIHIIII 



J'* 

fi0, MO 



Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72 
Hours orSteaniingHot24-Hours 

A necessity in every home — indispensable when 

traveling or on any outing. Keeps baby's 

milk at right temperature, or invalid's 

hot or cold drink all night without heat, 

ice or bother of preparation. 

Thoroughly protected against breakage. 
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass. 
Instantly demountable— easy to keep clean. 

Typical Icy-Hot Values 

No. 31. Bottle— Black Morocco Leath- 
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5.25 
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for 
oysters.solid food, etc. Pt. 3.00; Qt. 4.50 
No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00 
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel — green, wine 
and tan, Pr. 1.75; Ot. 2.75 
NOc 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint 
bottle and drinking cup ^.25 
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle 0*. 9.00 
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer 
cannot supply you, accept no sub 
stitute— we will supply you direct^ 
at above prices, charges pre- 
paid. Write for catalog show- 
ing many styles from ?1 up. 
Icy-Hot Bottle Co., 
Cincinnati, 
?^ Ohio 






Mudge Patent Canner 

The modem way of canning fruits and vegetables 
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY 



Write for information 



BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY 

3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa. 



THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2M 

Needed in every home. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns 
easy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed make it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. 
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent 
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or 
with our famous 2-in-1 Flour Sifter 
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2.50. 



2-IN-l 



FLOUR 
SIFTER 



$155 



l^rfAis. 



'^:^i 



L 



( Tested and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to 
clean. Has two compartments 
with sifter between. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as often 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Far better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. 

Sent prepaid upon receipt of $1 .00 
(or three for $2.00), or with 
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every 
housewife needs them both. Order 
today. 

Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Write for our liberal proposition 



WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO. 

858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
170 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Correctly Made Salads 

Salads should be not only 
cold and crisp, but good to look 
at. Instead they are usually 
rather mussy, especially on hot 
days, when of all times they 
ought to look invitingly cool 
and crisp. 

A tempting salad will not 
only coax the appetite, but it 
will go far towards satisfying 
it. Nothing like correctly made 
salads for the summer appetite. 
The use of 

Jell-0 

for the purpose has revolutionized the making 
of salads. It not only gives them a deliciously 
icy sparkle and piquancy of flavor, but furn- 
ishes a beauty of form that is as much to be 
desired in salads as in desserts. 

Salad recipes will be sent on request and 
also the new Jell-O Book. 

Seven Jell-O flavors — each 10 cents, at any 
grocer's. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., 
Le Roy. N. Y.. and Bridgeburg. Ont. 



Color of Cream or Butter 
No Indication of Its Quality 

Exhaustive experiments by the University of Missouri 
show that the yellow coloring of cream and butter is de- 
rived from "carotin" and "xanthophyll", yellow pigments 
found most abundantly in fresh green feeds. The amount 
of color that a cow takes out of her feed and puts into 
cream and butter, depends almost entirely on the amount 
of coloring matter in her feed, although for some unex- 
plained reason some breeds of cows make use of more 
carotin when making their milk. The high color in cream 
does not denote richness in butter fat, and instead of cows 
giving a low per cent, of fat in winter when the cream is 
colorless, they give a higher per cent, of fat than they do in 
spring and summer. 

The butter maker who adds a vegetable coloring matter 
to butter is only doing what the cow would do if she had 
feeds rich in "carotin" and "xanthophyll". Purebred Hol- 
stein cows produce milk naturally light in color, but rich 
in body and tissue building properties and in vitality, and 
their yield is greater, more constant and profitable than 
that of any other dairy cows in the world. Investigate the 
big 'Black-and-Whites." Send for our literature. 




Holstem-Freisian Association of America 

F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec'y 
16-W American Building. Brattleboro, Vermont 




"My fruit always keeps 

I don't risk a fine jar of 
fruit for half a cent. I buy 

iHlODbUCK 

RUBBER RINGS 

thick, strong and elastic." 

Send 2c stamp for booklet, " Good Luck in 
Preserving," with 33 original recipes and an 
assortment of gummed labels. If your dealer 
cannot supply you, send 10c for Idoz. rings. 

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 
Dept. 3 Cambridge, Mass. 



r-HAY'S- 
Pure 
Fruit 
Juices 




COMBINED IN 



Hay's Five Fruit Syrup 

make a most wholesome drink at all 
seasons for all people — old or young. 
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready. 

Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00 



Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write 

to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 6c 

for mailing liberal sample. 



H H HAY SONS 

PORTLAND. ME. 





Buy advertised_Goods —.Do not accept substitutes 
171 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Kxperience has shown that the most satisfactory way 

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri- 
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an 
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums: 



CONDITIONS 



Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yeariy sub- 
The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly 



scriptions at $1.00 each. 

stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or is not paid as stated 




^ ^ SWEDISH 
ROSETTE 
IRONS 



These are something new in this country. With 
them you can make delicious and beautiful pastry 
confections, to be served sprinkled with powdered 
sugar or spread with jam or preserves and orna- 
mented with whipped cream. 

Each set comes securely packed in an attractive 
box, with recipes and full directions for use. 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, hOc. 




MAGIC COVER 

For Pastry Boards and Rolling Pin ; chemically 
treated and hygienic; recommended by leading 
teachers of cooking. If you once use this you will 
never be without a set again. Saves flour, time 
and patience. Sent postpaid, for one (1) new sub- 
scription. Cash price, 65c. 




Pastry Bad and Four Tubes 

(Bag not shown in cut) 

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. 
Made especially for Bakers and Caterers. Emi- 
nently suitable for home use. 

The set sent, prepaid, for two (2) new subscrip- 
tions. Cash price, $1.00. 



THE A. M. C. ORNAMENTER 

Rubber pastry bag and twelve brass tubes, assorted designs, for cake decorating. This set is for fine 
work, while the set described a-bove is for more general use. Packed in a wooden box, prepaid, for 
three (3) new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.60. 




PATTY 
IRONS 



Are used to make pates or timbales; pastry cups 
for serving hot or frozen dainties, creamed vege- 
tables, salads, ices, etc. 

Each set, packed in a box with recipes and full 
directions. 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. 

Cash price, 60c. 




ROTARY 

MINCING 

KNIFE 

Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect- 
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables, etc., 
and the shield frees the knives from the materials 
being cut. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscriber. Cash 
price, 60c. 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 



Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
172 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



PREMIUMS 




PRINCESS PATTY TINS 

— FOR- 

Brownies or Other Small Cakes 



A SET OF 24 TINS 

Sent postpaid for one (1) new subscription 
Cash Price, 50c. 



Brownies 

1 Egg, well beaten 
1 cup of Flour 
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or 
Walnuts 

Mix in the usual manner but without separating 
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press 
half a nut meat into the top of each cake. 



}i cup of Butter 

}4 cup of Sugar 

}i cup of Molasses(dark) 



A SET OF THREE 
STEEL DRAWN MOULDS 

For Jellies, Puddings, Custards, 
etc., etc. 

Are so snaped that the contents readily comes 

out in perfect condition. 
These moulds ordinarily sell for 25c. pint size, 
40c. pint and a half, and 60c. for quart size. 




We have combined the three sizes into a set, and 
will send a set (either oval or round but not 
assorted shapes), prepaid, as premium for one 
(1) new subscription. Cash Price 65 c. 



"ROBERTS LIGHTNING 
MIXER" 

Tens of thousands of delighted 
housekeepers daily use this 
mixer and recommend it as be- 
ing the most effective beater, 
mixer and churner they ever 
saw. Beats whites of eggs in 
half a minute, whips cream and 
churns butter in from one to 
three minutes. In making 
floats, salad dressings, custards, 
gravies, charlotte russe, egg nog, 
etc., it must be used in order to 
achieve the best results. No 
spatter. Saves time and labor. 

Sent postpaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash Price 50c. 



GOLDEN ROD 

CAKE PAN 

For " Waldorf Triangles " " Golden Rod Cake,*' 
'* Orange Slice Cake ** and many other fancy 
cakes. Substantially made of the best tin. Sent 
postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash 
Price 45 c. 





FRUIT 
CUTTER 



Cores and splits apples, pears and 
quinces into six pieces with one 
operation. Silver plated, turned 
wooden tray. Sent, postpaid, for 
one (1) new subscription. Cash 
price, 60 cts. 



The only reliable and sure 
way to make Candy, Boiled 
Frosting, etc., etc., is to use a 

THERMOMETER 

Here is just the one you need. 
Made especially for the purpose by 
one of the largest and best manu- 
facturers in the country. 

Sent, postpaid, for two (2) new 
subscriptions. Cash price, $1.00. 



2004 



i/1 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston. Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes- 
173 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PREMIUMS 



Crisp Card Mounts 

Crisps made with these moulds representing Hearts, 
Diamonds, Clubs and Spades, are ideal for serving 
card-party luncheons. 





T^HE bottom of the center space 
is closed ; in this can be served 
any creamed meat, oysters or vege- 
tables, garnished around the edges 
with parsley, radishes or olives. 

Another excellent way of using 
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf 
and fill with salad ; or fill the shell 
with an ice or ice cream and gar- 
nish with fruit. 

Sent, prepaid for two (2) new 
subscriptions. Cash price $ 1 .00, 



FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN 




Open End 



Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 long. 

Sent, prepaid for one (1) new subscription. 

Cash price 45c. 




DOOR STOP 

Need not be fastened to the floor. 

Holds door open at any angle. 

Worked by the foot. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) sub- 
scription. Cash price 50c. 

When ordering mention whether 
or not door has a threshold. 



n'A 



BREAD BOARD 

Eleven-inch turned and carved maple bread board. 
Imported. Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber 
for securing and sending us one (1) new yearly sub- 
scription for American Cookery. Cash price 65c. 



INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS 

Serves Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic, Coffee and Fruit Jelly, 
Pudding and other desserts with your initial 
letter raised on the top. Latest and Dainti- 
est novelty for the up-to-date hostess. 

To remove jelly take a needle and run it 
around inside of mould, then immerse in 
warm water ; jelly will then come out in 
perfect condition. 

Be the first in your town to have these. 
You cannot purchase them at the stores. 
This shows the jelly turned from the mould _ This shows mould Cup-side down) 

Set of six (6), any initial, sent, postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash price 55c. 





THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass, 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
174 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE 
MOULDS IN SETS 



And in that way get a free copy of the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and 
Recipes, which adds greatly to the actual value of the investment without increasing 
the cost of the same. The cost price, of each article, being the same, whether bought 
in sets or separately, and the rules and recipes are only given with the sets, because 
these cakes cannot be baked successfully in greased tins, and it is necessary to have 
the entire outfit in order to insure perfect success, in making all cakes. 

These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right, 
being so practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in 
the past, success will be assured, every time these instructions are followed correctly, 
and ANGEL, SUNSHINE and other of the most delicate, delicious and desirable 
iakes made easier than the ordinary ones are by the old methods. 

OUR SPECIAL OFFER 

If your dealer will not supply you, we will 
lend, postpaid, our regular set, consisting of, 1 
Loaf and 2 Layer Moulds, regular size, round 
or square, 1 Measuring Cup, 1 Egg Whip and 
a copy of our Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes, 
— to Offices — in the United States — east of 
the Mississippi River for 90 cents, and to those 
west of the same for $1.10. 

Our Scientific Method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let them stick, and loosen 
lie cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be removed — each mould being provided with 
openings at the sides, which are covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted to loosen the 
:ake from the bottom. In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking, and prevents its 
jettling, and becoming "soggy." 

They may claim that some other kinds of cake moulds are "just as good** as these, and also that 
these Scientific Rules and Recipes are no better than the ordinary ones, but you will only have to 
consult a few, of the thousands, of the cakemakers who are using these, or give the outfit a thorough 
trial yourself, in order to be convinced of the superior merits of these, — not only for Angel Cake, 
but for making all other kinds as well. 

A.GEINTS \^ ANTED ^° canvass the Towns and Small Cities — where we have not been able to give 
^ rill 1 MaiJ demonstrations — and educate the cakemakers in regard to the great advantages to be 

derived by practicing our scientific method of cake-making, and take orders for our specialties. We will arrange with 
Church, Domestic Science and other Societies, that want to make money, to act as our agents. This offers a rare 
opportunity to build a very profitable, and permanent, business. For our special terms to agents, address Dept. A. 




THE CHAPMAN CO. 



Geneva, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
175 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




7"'HE present popularity of white summer clothes for men as well 
as for women places no hardship on the laundress who knows the 
possibilities in Ivory Soap. No matter what the material — linen, silk, 
cotton, fiannel, or Palm Beach cloth — no special care is needed so long 
as Ivory is used. 

The use of the mild, pure, white, neutral Ivory eliminates all danger to weave, 
color and finish. It contains no free alkali — cannot harm the most delicate fabrics. It 
contains no inferior ingredients — cannot have any effect except the production of 
sweet, spotless, snowy cleanness. 

All that is necessary is to handle each garment as better-than-ordinary clothes always 
should be handled. That is, wash one piece at a time, use lukewarm water, refrain 
from rubbing, and dry into shape as far as possible. Because Ivory is the purest 
and the highest quality soap that can be made, just common sense — not special 
directions — is needed to make its washing of any kind of clothes beyond criticism. 



IVORY SOAP 



99U% PURE 



Factories at Ivorydale, O.; Port Ivory, N. Y.; Kansas City, Kans.; Hamilton, Can. 



mm^mPMm}M^^^>^, ,.. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
176 



ADVERTISEMENTS 








. \' 







k.itiA-' 




• THE RECEPTION COMMITTEE 

A;//;/,y/ ^ £rfzf^/v/ F. Bifwerfo/ Cream of Wheat Co Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept suDstitutes 
177 



AMERICAN COOKERy 



Vol. XXI 



OCTOBER, 1916 



No. 3 



CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR HALLOWE'EN SUPPERS 185 

MARY ATTENDS A CAKE AND PIE SALE HELD BY 

WEST SWAMP MENNONITES . . Edith M. Thomas 187 

A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL Ladd Plumley 192 

(Continued from August-September number) 

THE STIRRUP CUP Mary Carolyn Davies 195 

A PERFECT CAKE .... Frances Campbell Sparhawk 196 

HALLOWE'EN MERRIMENT . . Jeanette Young Norton 200 

AH SING'S COALS OF FIRE .... Donald A. Eraser 202 

OUR FLAG L. M. Thornton 203 

ENGLISH WALNUT TREES . . . . . Hollister Sage 204 

EDITORIALS . 206 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with 

half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) ... Janet M. Hill 209 

MENUS,BALANCED,FORWEEK IN OCTOBER „ „ „ 218 

MENUS, BREAKFAST, FOR YOUNG CHILDREN „ „ „ 219 

APOSTLES OF THE NEW ... Eleanor Robbins Wilson 220 

PRESERVING EGGS George E. Walsh 222 

A WAYSIDE OVEN, ETC., ETC. . . . Aubrey Fullerton 225 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— Lighting the Dining Room 

— Keeping Eggs — Of Sweet Herbs — Afternoon Tea — Etc. 227 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 230 

THE SILVER LINING 242 

MISCELLANEOUS 244 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY 
Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c. 

Entered at Boston post-oflBce as second-class matter. 

Copyright, 1916, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

178 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Cotlolene 



''The 

Natural 

Shortening'' 



**Cottolene 
makes good 
cooking better** 



Tempting Biscuits 

You will make them when you use 
Cottolene for shortening. 

Biscuits shortened with Cottolene are 
light, flaky, pleasing to the eye and grateful 
to the appetite. 



Cottolene Baking-Powder Biscuits 

Into two cups of sifted pastry flour, sift and mix 
one level teaspoon of salt and four level or two 
rounded teaspoons baking powder; chop in one 
level tablespoon of chilled Cottolene, wet to a stiff 
dough with about ^ cup of milk, or half water 
and half milk. Toss out on a floured board, pat 
it down and roll 3^ -inch thick. Cut into small 
rounds and bake in a hot oven. 

From "HOME HELPS," mailed free if you write 
our General Offices, Chicago 



Cottolene is a pure food product that is a 
real aid to digestion. Use it for all shorten- 
ing and frying. With Cottolene you are 
always sure of cooking better foods. 



For your convenience Cottolene is put up 
in pails of different sizes. Arrange with your 
grocer today for a regular supply. 



i#*^ ^^w^ 



Ufii 



^ih 



'*ssss::t' 









.^"^ 



J" 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
179 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




"This Year I had 

Six Dresses 
Instead of Two" 

PRETTIER dresses— more stylish, better made, and for 
the first time in my life dresses that my friends say 
have my own individuality in every line. And they cost 
me less than the two I had last season. How did I man- 
age? I made them all myself . Besides, I've made three 
skirts and half a dozen blouses, and practically everything 
that the children are wearing. And a year ago I couldn't 
make a buttonhole." 

Today hundreds of women are telling practically this 
same story of how they have found the easy, delightful way 
to clothes economy through the simple and practical Home- 
Study Courses in Dressmaking and Milhnery offered by the 

WOMAN S INSTITUTE 

OF DOMESTIC ARTS ^ SCIENCES INC. 

By our new easy method you can learn right at home in 
spare time to make all your own and your children's clothes 
and save two-thirds of what they now cost you. Our new 
method is entirely different from anything you ever have 
seen or heard of. So simple you can start making garments 
at once. Hundreds of pictures show and explain every 
step . 

In Dressmaking, you learn how to design, plan and make 
garments of every kind; renovate and remodel; copy 
dresses you see on the street, in the shops or in the fashion 
magazines; do all kinds of fancy work; dress in taste and 
style. In MDlinery, how to design and trim hats, construct 
and alter shapes, make all kinds of ribbon flowers and 
bows. These are but suggestions. 

Be a Dressmaker or Milliner 

With the thorough training these Courses give you, you can go 
into business, secnfe a good paying position or open a shop of your 
own. The demand for dressmakers and milliners is greater "than 
the supply — hundreds are making $25 to $40 a week. 

Send this coupon or a letter or postal today for full information 
about the Course in which you are interested most and full details 
of our special low price, easy-payment offer to those enrolling now. 



WOMAN'S INSTITUTE, Inc. 

Dept. 12 K, 358 Fifth Avenue, New York City 

Please send me your special offer and full information 
regarding the Course marked below. 

r~l Home Dressmaking []] Home MilUnery 

(~~] Professional Dressmakinc 



Name. 



Specify Avhether Mrs. or Miss 



Address. 



•ess __« I 



INDEX FOR OCTOBER Page 

Ah Sing's Coals of Fire 202 

Apostles of the New 220 

Double Professional, A 192 

Editorials. 206 

English Walnut Trees. 204. 

Hallowe'en Merriment . . :'. 200 

Home Ideas and Economies 227 

Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by. 

West Swamp Mennonites. '. ' '187 

Menus 185, 218, 219 

Our Flag 203 

Perfect Cake, A. ;. 196 

Preserving Eggs. 222 

Silver Lining, The 242 

Stirrup Cup, The 195 

Wayside Oven, A . ... , ..... 2^5 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes: 

Buns, Philadelphia Butter 217 

Cake, Lemon Queens 215 

Canapes, Anchovy-and-Egg 209 

Chicken, Turkish 211 

Delight, Vassar's 216 

Fish, Point Shirley Style 210 

Fish, Sword, or Chicken Halibut, Point 

Shirley Style, 111.. 210 

Fishcakes, 111 211 

Fondu, Cheese 213 

Frosting, Boiled. 215 

Gingerbread, Scotch 215 

Ham, Deviled 212 

Hermits 216 

Lamb, Roast Leg of. 111 212 

Muffins, Golden Cream 217 

Muffins, Sally Lunn 217 

Pickerel, Fried, 111 210 

Popover,-, Choice 216 

Potatoes, Franconia, 111 212 

Pudding, Steamed Date 216 

Rabbit, Deviled 212 

Ramekins; Cheese 212 

Rice, Creole 214 

Salad, Lima Bean 214 

Salad, Tomato-and-Cucumber, 111. ..... 213 

Sardines, Fried .' 210 

Sauce, Tomato ..-.,..: 214 

Sauce, Miss Wilbur's Hard 216 

Soup, Boston Baked Bean. ..........:. 209 

Timbales, Baked Bean 213 

Turnovers, Chicken-and-Ham 217 

Vegetables, Curried . ... 214 

Queries and Answers: 

Apples with Dates 232 

Bread,Bran. 234 

Cake, Divinity, Fudge, with Frosting. . 236 

Cake, Fruit, Wholewheat. 234 

Catering for College Girls . . . . . . 236 

Custard, Renversee 236 

Custard, Tapioca 231 

Figs, Stewed, with Cream 232 

Filling for Cream Puffs 230 

Gingerbread with Whipped Cream 232 

Ice Cream, Junket 232 

Muffins, Bran. 234 ' 

Preserves and Pickles, Damson . 234 

Pudding, Cornstarch, with Chocolate 

Sauce : 231 

Puddings, Queen of. Mock Indian, Apple 

Tapioca 231 

Prune Kuchen. 232 

Rice, Boiled 231 

Salad, Frozen Fruit 231 

Sponge, Pineapple Tapioca 232 

Steak, Broiling of 230 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
180 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



A tiny little pointed tack 

will put the biggest automobile out of business 

A little mistake in guessing 

will ruin the best cake, pudding, etc., ever planned 



Therefore do not guess. Go by Mrs. Rorer. She has 
cooked all her thousands of choice and delightful 
recipes into a dead certainty. No materials ever 
wasted, and no mistakes ever made. Cooking is a 
pleasure with Mrs. Rorer as a guide. She puts the 
beginner on a par with the experienced cook, and for 
the latter has a whole raft of things to delight and 
claim attention. 

Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book 

A marvelous book of over 700 pages of the choicest original recipes, with 
rnstructions in marketing, cooking, serving, carving, etc.; illustrated. 

Bound in washable cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.20. 

Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book 

The book that is in thousands of homes. Full of the best things in all 
branches of cookery. 

Bound in washable cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.15. 



Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes 

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65 
Every Day Menu Book 

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65 

My Best 250 Recipes 1 Cloth 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. ^^ *^®J"*» 
Canning and Preserving. . . > , 

New Salads 80 cents 

Dainties .... ^^^^ 



How to Use a Chafing Dish 

Sandwiches 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs 

Made-Over Dishes 

Home Candy Making 

Hot Weather Dishes 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings 
Bread and Bread Making . . 



Cloth 

50 cents 

each 

by mail 

55 cents 

each 






Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
181 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



1 



FOR THOSE WHO WANT A HOME 




CRAFTSMAN HOUSE NO. 78 



our one dollar offer gives you 
The Craftsman for Six Months 

with Two New Houses in Each Issue, together 
with Four Popular Craftsman Houses Reproduced 

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American Cookery 



VOL. XXI 



OCTOBER 



No. 3 



Mary Attends a Cake and Pie Sale Held by West 

Swamp Mennonites 



By Edith M. Thomas 



ONE morning in late October, 
Mary Middleton in the Landis 
kitchen at Clear Spring Farm, 
Schuggenhaus Township, Bucks County, 
was busily engaged rolling pie-dough to 
a wafer-like thinness, before placing it 
over a crust-lined pie-tin generously filled 
with stewed apple "Snitz", when little 
Polly Schmidt, daughter of a near-by 
neighbor, came running breathlessly into 
the kitchen through the partly opened 
door; observing Mary baking pies, she 
commenced humming in a sing-song tone, 
"Once I made little pie-dough biscuits, 
so I did, with the top of my mother's 
pepper box lid, and baked them on the 
stove one day, when our hired girl she 
say I may." 

Then, recollecting the errand on which 
she had been sent, she said soberly, 
"Brother Fritz and Bizalis' (name for 
her sister Elizabeth) would like you to 
go with us to a cake and pie sale held by 
the West Swamp Mennonites; Fritz 
says they 'beat the Dutch' for baking 
good doughnuts and potato cakes, and 
he will take us to the sale in the car- 
riage." 

Mary, with whom the small maid was 
a great favorite, smilingly replied, "Yes 
indeed Polly, I'll be delighted to go; I 
have always greatly desired to attend a 
cake and pie sale in Bucks County." 

Polly hastened home to dress for the 
proposed drive, calling to Mary as she 
scampered away, "We will come for you 



at one o'clock as the sale commences 
at two." 

Promptly at the appointed time 
Ehzabeth, Polly and Mary, with Fritz 
Schmidt as driver, were on their way to 
the sale. 

It was a glorious October day, with 
just a hint in the keen, bracing air of the 
frost of the preceding night, which, with 
a magician's touch, had changed the 
leaves on the maples from green to gold 
— the only bright spots in the dreary 
looking fields, from which crops had been 
gathered, with the exception of orange-^ 
hued pumpkins and wagons filled to 
overfiowing with golden ears of corn but 
lately husked. 

The shocks of corn, stacked in alter- 
nate rows in nearby fields, required no 
great stretch of the imagination to 
fancy them tepees or wigwams of a 
deserted Indian village. 

The kitchen gardens appeared bleak 
and desolate, their wealth of fruit and 
vegetables having been stored by thrifty 
farmers in cellars for winter's need. 
Occasionally were noticed vivid green 
patches in the gardens passed that, on 
nearer view, proved to be bunches of 
endive, which, when the hearts have 
bleached to a creamy yellow, is con- 
sidered the salad par excellence among 
the Pennsylvania Germans. 

Firmly fastened to leafless branches 
of oak and mulberry trees, were forsaken 
birds' nests, untenanted wren houses 
187 



188 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




UNTENANTED WREN HOUSE 

affixed to cedar posts of rudely con- 
structed grape arbors, and from inter- 
twined vines were suspended small, 
unripened, frost-bitten Balsam apples. 

Among the green wax-like leaves of 
woodbine, which clambered over trellis 
and farm house verandahs, completely 
covering a rustic summer house, were 
noticed several sweet scented sprays of 
the belated blossoms, which had defied 
frost, as had the feathery blossoms of 
wild clematis encircling dead tree trunks. 

The spicy scent of sassafras, inter- 
mingled with that of cooked apples, was 
borne to the nostrils on the fresh, invig- 
orating breeze, as a neighboring farm 
house was passed, in the side yard of 
which were congregated a number of 
women around a wood fire, taking 
turns at stirring the contents of a large 
iron kettle, which one readily surmised 
was apple butter. 

In another farm house yard, one man 
was busily engaged cutting cabbage for 
"sauer kraut"; swiftly, as fall flakes 
of snow, fell the cut cabbage into an 
immaculate, white, cloth-lined tub. 
The wooden box containing the uncut 
cabbage was pushed so swiftly back 
and forth over the sharp teeth of the 
*'kraut" cutter as to make it necessary 
to have two men to trim off the surplus 



leaves and cut hearts from cabbage to 
supply the machine. 

Nearby stood an elderly woman 
salting the fresh cut cabbage in a large 
tin pan, adding just enough salt to make 
it palatable (that being a hard and fast 
rule for the making of good "kraut"). 
A layer of cut cabbage was then placed 
in a large wooden "Stenner" kept 
especially for the purpose; the cabbage 
was pounded with a long handled 
heavy, wooden mallet, layers of the 
salted cabbage being added from time 
to time, until a liquid or brine covered 
the top of cabbage. In the course of 
several weeks the sauer kraut would be 
ready to use. 

"Elizabeth, is it not rather late in the 
season to make sauer kraut?" inquired 
Mary, who had been reared in the city. 
''No indeed," quickly answered Fritz. 
''Mother says better kraut may be 
made from cabbage after we have had 
frost, and better kraut than ours I 
don't think ever was made." 

"This is all tremendously interesting," 
said Mary Middleton, at whose request 
Fritz had stopped the horses, to allow 
the girls to watch the men at work; 




MENNONITE MATRON 



A CAKE AND PIE SALE 



189 



"but unless we hurry on to the pie 
and cake sale, everything will be sold 
before we reach there." "Yes," acqui- 
esced Fritz, "I should not like to miss 
getting there in time to buy some sugary, 
cinnamon buns with lots of currants in 
them. " " And, ' ' exclaimed Polly, "I'd like 
some of the doughnuts sifted with 
pulverized sugar, that Fritz tells about!" 

Swiftly passing green fields of winter 
rye, inclosed by rail fence, they at last 
reached the building, where in a large 
room, previously occupied by a paper 
hanger, the sale was being held. 

Hurrying to the sale from various 
directions, came sweet-faced Mennonite 
maids and matrons, in quaint bonnets 
and plain dress, each carrying a basket 
containing freshly baked bread, cake 
or pie, whichever one they happened 
to be most proficient in the making of; 
and the basket would be useful to carry 
home the product of some other haus- 
frau's culinary skill. 

The young girls (in charge of the well 
filled, attractive looking tables that 
fairly groaned with their weight of 
"goodies"), garbed in long snowy aprons, 
smiled a greeting to the new comers, who 
were strangers. 

Mary Middleton, as she crossed the 
room to the largest table, that containing 
cakes and pies of every variety imag- 
inable, wondered, if anywhere else on 



earth, except in a Bucks County com- 
munity, could be found such a tooth- 
some array of home manufactured 
edibles. 

Large, brown, crusty loaves of bread, 
oblong, round and square, caused one's 
mouth to water and made one wish for 
an old-fashioned slice of home-made 
bread, generously spread with sweet, 
fresh-churned, unsalted butter, with a 
sprinkling of light brown sugar, if one 
had not outgrown his childish love of 
sweets. 

On the table were light, raised "potato 
cakes," thickly covered with crumbs, 
icing or cinnamon, flaky biscuits, cin- 
namon buns, turned upside down on 
plates, disclosing thick syrupy top and 
sides; golden brown doughnuts, over 
which powdered sugar was thickly sifted, 
crumb cakes, small walnut molasses 
cakes, and "pibbledash pie," as Mary 
was accustomed to hear her Aunt Sarah 
Landis call a delectable cake, composed 
of a mixture of sugar, butter, molasses 
and flour, baked in pastry crust. 

A beautifully iced cake, covered with 
halved walnut meats, chocolate layer 
cake, with thick chocolate icing between 
layers and covering top and sides, a 
white loaf-cake, with a creamy caramel 
icing covered with small chocolate drops, 
a black chocolate cake, sprinkled gen- 
erously with shredded cocoanut, dainty 




A TYPICAL RESIDENCE 



190 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



white angel cake and golden sponge, 
also were shown. 

But the cake, on which Mary 
thought was displayed the most artis- 
tic skill, was a large loaf-cake, over- 
spread with white icing; at intervals on 
top and sides of cake, were placed yel- 
low daisies, composed of a circle of 
yellow, candy grains of corn to represent 
petals of a daisy, a small chocolate drop 
placed in the center, in imitation of the 
brown center of a daisy. 

Tin oven-plates of small lemon 
wafers, and pies — every variety of pie 
ever conceived by the inventive mind 
of a woman was represented. Golden 
brown "cheese cakes" in pastry crusts, 
lemon meringue, mince pie, "snitz," 
"rosina" and sour cherry pie. A de- 
licious looking pie composed of one 
crust, filled with small yellow "ground 
cherries," also a "vanilla crust," was 
purchased by Fritz Schmidt, who pos- 
sessed a boy's inordinate fondness for pie. 

"Look Elizabeth!" exclaimed Polly 
Schmidt, who had been inquisitively 
walking around the cake-table. "There 
is a loaf of rye bread, exactly like the 



one Aunt Sarah Landis bakes, right back 
of that wheat loaf." "Yes," replied the 
young Mennonite girl at the table, "that 
loaf of hearth-baked rye bread was sent 
to us by Susannah Moyer of Friends- 
town; she sent us a loaf, when we had a 
sale last year, and that loaf was cut up 
in eight pieces and each portion sold for 
eight cents, so we received sixty-four 
cents for the one loaf, and we could have 
sold two loaves at the same price. 
"That is not surprising," answered 
Mary, "as this loaf of bread is very 
similar to those baked by my Aunt 
Sarah Landis, and her hearth-baked 
rye loaves are usually about four inches 
high and forty-six inches in circumfer- 
ence. Country folk round about here 
are unusually fond of this dark, nut 
flavored hearth-baked bread, which 
comparatively few modern housewives 
have either the time or inclination to 
bake, elsewhere than in Bucks County." 
Fritz, after viewing the bountifully 
spread table for a time, as if loath to 
leave the good things, said, "I think I'll 
buy a chocolate cake for mother. " "It's 
very kind of you," said Polly, "as 




CAKES AND PIES OF EVERY VARIETY 



A CAKE AND PIE SALE 



191 




HEARTH-BAKED RYE BREAD 

it's your favorite cake." Fritz, 
ignoring the unintentional sarcasm in 
sister's remark, turned to Mary saying, 
"You don't often have an opportunity 
to see tables like this in the city, do you ?" 
Mary purchased a cake recipe, after 
tasting a sample cake, baked from the 
formula which she pronounced both 
good and economical, as neither milk, 
eggs nor butter were used in its com- 
position; for the cake, the following in- 
gredients were placed together in a stew 
pan, and cooked a few minutes — one 
cup of brown sugar, the same quantity 



of cold water, one-third a cup of sweet 
lard (or a mixture or butter and lard 
might be used if preferred,) two cups of 
seeded raisins, one-fourth a grated nut- 
meg, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
one half a teaspoonful of ground cloves 
and a pinch of salt; when this mixture 
had cooled, one teaspoonful of soda was 
added, (previously dissolved in a little 
hot water), then add about one and 
three-fourths cups of flour sifted with 
one-half a teaspoonful of baking powder; 
bake in a loaf, in a moderately hot oven, 
about thirty minutes. 

At a table containing novelties, 
Mary purchased, for her Aunt Sarah 
Landis, a small ribbon- tied "splint case" 
fashioned from heavy blue paper; con- 
taining new broom splints, to be used 
for testing cake ; on the front of the case 
was pasted a slip, on which was painted 
a picture in water color of a "Dutch" 
girl holding a chocolate cake. Under- 
neath the picture appeared the follow- 
ing lines — 

Make a cake, make a cake, 
Put it in a pan ; 

Bake a cake, as slowly 
as you can. 

Beat it and beat it, and 
test it with a straw. 

It will be the best cake, 
That you ever saw. 




A Double Professional 

By Ladd Plumley 



{Concluded from August-September number) 



WILL you ever forgive me, my 
dear?" asked Mrs. Wallace. 
"You see you came first and 
I thought — well, perhaps, it was natural. 
I was worrying more about cooks than 
I was about the music. It's always 
seemed to me that any music goes, but 
folks are awful particular about what 
they get to eat." 

Mrs. Wallace raised her gown to her 
eyes again and shook with laughter. 
Then the seriousness of her mistake came^ 
to her and stifled her amusement. 

"My, my!" she exclaimed. "What 
in the world shall I do ? You see, when I 
found I had to pay such a big price for a 
cook I decided I'd just skip the music — 
it didn't seem right — so much expense 
for one day. I sent the real cooks to the 
right-about. Dear me! Most of the 
folks who are coming to the dinner are 
pretty particular. This, my dear, is a 
kind of house-warming. Then I'm 
pretty near crazy, what with helping get 
ready, and there isn't a professional cook 
you could get in this town, not if you 
filled her lap with silver." 

For a moment, the girl gave Mrs. 
Wallace's difficulty her most careful 
consideration. Then she made a mo- 
mentous decision, far more momentous 
than it seemed to her at the time. Here 
was a woman who was well-nigh de- 
mented with her trouble. Had not she. 
Brook, been trained in household details 
by that supreme trainer — a New Eng- 
land mother? And if there was one 
thing that Brook loved, aside from her 
music, it was cookery. A single glance 
into the great spotless kitchen proved 
that here was an opportunity which she 
had always craved. 

In less than ten minutes, clothed in a 
mighty apron which Mrs. Wallace had 



at once obtained, the singer had taken 
command in the kitchen. Mrs. Wallace 
had feebly expostulated, but Brook had 
waved aside the expostulation. 

'Tt will be the biggest lark of my 
life, ' ' laughed the girl. ' 'And it's going to 
be an old-fashioned menu — that manna 
of yours is to be a New England turkey 
dinner, served in courses — just enough 
to be correct. If you've got plenty of 
cream, as, of course, you have in that 
glorious ice-box, I'll make such creamed 
mushrooms that, if you'll only try them, 
you'll afterward risk sudden death to 
eat. And your pumpkin pie and mince 
meat! Yum, yum! Now it's to get 
down to business. This good woman 
here will help me until you and the maids 
have everything to your liking in the 
front of the house. Then I may ask 
you to come and we'll hold a consulta- 
tion." 

With Brook at the helm, everything 
settled into a brisk but systematic 
whirlwind of preparation. Before long 
an extra woman helper appeared. The 
turkey, prepared and trussed, lay ready 
to go into the nickled door of the great 
oven. Pie crust had been made and a 
great circle of puffed-up spiciness was 
already browning. Vegetables and 
sauces were considered and in the process 
of preparation. The two women who 
were Brook's aids were really excellent 
plain cooks and only needed a few hints 
to make them into the most proficient 
of helpers. 

"All the way through I'll make the 
menu old-fashioned," said Brook, during 
one of Mrs. Wallace's delighted inspec- 
tions of the flurry in the kitchen. "I'll 
sing my sweetest old-fashioned songs. 
Then the favored will eat a real old- 
fashioned New England dinner — only 



192 



A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL 



193 



the Puritans didn't have such a brand 
of jwondrous cheese as I sniffed in that 
beautiful outside ice-box." 

"My grocer would put in that cheese — 
said no dinner was complete without it. 
Though to me it seems pretty smelly," 
said Mrs. Wallace. 

''It's perfect Roquefort, "said Brook. 
"There'll be one man at least who 
knows cheese, there always is. And I'm 
going to tear myself away from this 
fairyland of a kitchen and take three 
minutes at your piano." 

We can suppose that all this time the 
angel-craftsman, somewhere aloft, held 
his hammer suspended. Would he 
forge or break? As Brook's sweet mezzo 
soprano softly took the opening bars of 
"Annie Laurie," the hammer began to 
fall. During the song it was falling, and 
when Brook whirled the stool so as to 
face the moist-eyed Mrs. Wallace the 
hammer had fallen. 

"Please let me use your phone," said 
Brook. "I have an important message 
which will not wait." 

And this was what the operator at 
the Boston telegraph office grinned over 
as he placed the telegram in an envelope 
and addressed it to a man at a hotel. 

''Dear Clarence: Have an unexpected 
professional engagement for the whole 
evening. It is better so. Nothing will 
change my mind. I somehow feel that 
in the end you will thank me for my 
decision. There is no other — not now 
— but the answer must be no.' 

"Faithfully yours. Brook." 

I wonder if the master craftsman up 
there does not frequently turn from 
smashing a link that he might have 
riveted and lift his hammer for another 
blow to smash or rivet another chain? 
It must be so. 

Three times the girl sang. She knew 
that she had never been in better voice. 
The great rooms were filled with guests. 
The first time that the songs of long ago 
trembled the air, the conversation con- 
tinued; the second time, the buzz of 
talk dwindled to whispers, and the third 



time, from the dreamy opening cadences 
of the piano, the whispers were hushed. 
Who was the singer? There was much 
curiosity, much comment and exchange 
of rumor. Some said that Mrs. Wallace 
had obtained the services of a church 
singer from Boston; others gave it that 
this Miss Pendleton, as was understood 
to be the name of the beautiful girl, was 
a protege of the mine owner's widow, the 
hostess, who had already hinted to a 
friend her admiration for the singer. 

It had been arranged that, while 
Brook was singing, Mrs. Wallace should 
take her turn in the kitchen. As the 
girl fled from the piano, after her final 
song, Mrs. Wallace met her in the back 
hall. 

"That went to my heart, my dear!" 
she exclaimed to the flushed girl. 
"Right into my heart — I've been stand- 
ing close to the door. And they don't 
need you in the kitchen. Everybody 
wants to be introduced. They'll start 
to go before long, and there's somebody 
I particularly want you- to meet. My 
dear, he- -yes, it's a he — and he's posi- 
tively ^dld about you — Duncan 
Mitchell. I've known and loved him 
ever since I cooked him gingerbread men 
when he was a kid. He's coming back 
for dinner — the dinner is really for him. 
Years ago his father used to live not far 
from this town. And — come right 
along, my dear. You must meet him 
and the others." 

Some time later, Brook found herself 
on a divan in a corner beside a man of 
keen, weather-beaten face; a man whose 
age seemed to be about thirty-five and 
who had a pleasant way of making you 
feel that you must have met him before 
and that from this time on you'd al- 
ways count him as a friend. 

"Don't wonder you say you're inter- 
ested in our hostess, Mrs. Wallace," 
said Brook's companion. "She's an 
unusual woman and has lived an un- 
usual life. Married a man of middle-age 
who took her out to the Northwest. A 
mining camp doesn't polish up a woman. 



194 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



For ten years she lived in a shack and 
wrestled with three square meals a day 
for her husband and his men. Then 
Wallace struck it heavy and rich. They 
had no children, and it wasn't long after 
pay dirt turned to bushels of nuggets 
that Wallace died. She comes back here, 
with her funny curls and funnier ways, 
buys this great house, and, I rather 
guess, she's having the time of her life. 
There'll be plenty who will laugh at her 
behind her back, though she's got a 
heart of gold. In the end, she'll be as 
respected and loved as she was in the 
mining days. Typical American story. 
Hard work, ill luck, good luck, sorrow 
and joy — and, yes — romance, all 
tangled up together. I come in, too. 
I'm the son of one of Wallace's men. As 
a boy, I helped around the shaft. All 
the men shared in the old man's good 
fortune. And the stout lady with the 
strange curls over there fed me when I 
was hungry, and coddled me in my 
boyish troubles. 

"My father had his share in the 
mine," continued the pleasant voice. 
**He sent me to Harvard — then he died. 
My mother had died years before — 
I've always thought of our friend as a 
kind of mother. Here I am — a business 
trip east — pretty big ranch out in Colo- 
rado, where I live a rather lonely life. 
Perhaps, Miss Pendleton, you care for 
riding. Maybe you know how the blood 
tingles when all outdoors signals you 
and the pony waits at the door. How 
delighted I'd be if our hostess would 
bring you out to Colorado — you could 
have your choice of twenty ponies." 

"What do you think of Duncan?" 
asked Mrs. Wallace, when the reception 
guests had gone and she and Brook were 
making a final inspection of the dinner. 

"On the first day you've ever met him 
I don't believe in stating an opinion con- 
cerning a man," replied Brook, knowing 
that the heat of the kitchen was not al- 
together responsible for the blood she 
felt tingling her cheeks. 

"If you're backward in talking about 



him, he ain't one bit about talking of 
you," said Mrs. Wallace. "And I ain't 
one who don't believe that, when the 
right two come together, one of 'em any- 
how don't sense it. From the word go, 
boy and man, Duncan has always been 
on the job. Perhaps it was pretty 
cheeky in him but he's asked me already 
if you were engaged." 

"Tell him anything — tell him you 
don't know," said Brook, turning and 
fleeing to the servants' sitting room. 

"Did you ever!" she gasped to herself 
as she dabbled her face with cold water. 
"Cheeky? Well, I should think so! 
But — perhaps — it's just as well I sent 
that telegram. Then — but, you little 
goosie, you do know that you've always 
wanted all outdoors, no music except 
when you crave music, and — yes, you 
goosie, riding ponies is heavenly! And 
I've seen men with nicer faces — but his 
is pretty nice, you'll have to acknowl- 
edge that, goosie girl!" 

Which goes to show that our crafts- 
man up yonder did raise his hammer for 
another blow. 

There are dinners and dinners, and 
very likely there have been dinners even 
better than the dinner which was served 
to the ten in Mrs. Wallace's dining-room. 
But for its kind, from oyster puree to 
cheese and coffee. Brook's dinner was 
something unusual. For one at the 
table, however, the dinner was far from 
perfect. The puree was beyond criti- 
cism, the turkey was a wonderful tur- 
key, as were the mushrooms wonderful 
mushrooms— a dish before which even 
the toadstool-fearing Mrs. Wallace fell 
on her knees, as it were, at their creamy 
shrine, — but Duncan, at the side of the 
hostess, missed something, missed her 
more than he had missed many things 
in his life. Where had the girl with pink- 
tinged sea-shell cheeks gone? Note 
the comparison. For he had already 
reached that magical place on the dear 
old trail where, as he toyed with his 
knife and fork, he wondered if her eyes 
were the color of a bronzed oak leaf or 



A DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL 



195 



the hue of the bark of the golden birch. 
This was an important question. Much 
more than he desired to test the mush- 
rooms, he desired again to look into the 
eyes and determine just what hue they 
were. 

A dozen times he attempted to ask 
Mrs. Wallace where the girl had gone 
and a dozen times the broad face at the 
head of the table mocked him with an 
inscrutable smile, as his hostess turned 
her attention to her guest on her other 
side. 

At last, when the dinner was over, his 
opportunity came and he asked his 
question. 

"Maybe she'll sing and maybe she 
won't," replied Mrs. Wallace. "But 
I'll be good and fix it up so that you can 
talk all you want with her. And, 
young man, knowing what I've learned 
in one afternoon, if I was one who could 
offer a girl a good nice home, I'd jump 
in and win Miss Pendleton, if there were 
fifty knocking at the door and if she 
said 'no' one hundred times." 

Now did he ask her on that very first 
night? Brook has never acknowledged 



it and the miner's son is the last to 
decorate a sleeve with a heart. He 
also is a good man of business and it 
seems doubtful if that kind of a man 
would ask a girl on the very first night. 
Still, I've known stranger things than 
that to happen. 

Whether he did or did not ask his 
question on that first night, it is certain 
that somehow he put off a business 
engagement for Chicago and haunted 
every place in Boston where by any 
chance he was likely to meet Brook. 

Mrs. Wallace has always declared 
that if Duncan Mitchell hadn't married 
Brook Pendleton, she would have taken 
her new friend into her home — from the 
first afternoon she had taken her into her 
heart. It can also be added that she 
insisted that the marriage should take 
place in her house. 

On that occasion she presented the 
bride with a string of pearls, like cream- 
colored cherries, together with a rather 
florid silver service, the great tray of 
which had emblazoned upon it in 
mighty gilt letters, "To a Double Pro- 
fessional — and a Dear Sweet Girl." 



The Stirrup Cup 



High the height I climb for- 

Yours is high. 
Pleasure we've no time for, 

You and I. 
Climb the crags of heaven, 

Broken, bleeding — 
That's my task. A little 

Cup I'm needing, 
As I stop a moment, 

In my flight 
To the stars that tower — 

To the light! 
Just a cup to cheer me 

And remind me 
That the devils fear me 

When they find me. 

Not I only, you too 
Need the wine 
Of a comrade's hand clasp, 
lere is mine. 



We are two hot hunters 

On the traces 
Of the truth we're tracking 

Through wild places. 

While my hand was yearning 

For a hand 
t a hard trail's turning — 

Here you stand! 
Just a hurried Godspeed, 

That is all. 
Now your trail awaits you! 

My heights call! 

Then Goodbye! Life's hollow — 

But it's good. 
We've our paths to follow — 

Though we should 
Never meet — Who's caring? 

If that's barred, 
Still — Here's joyous faring! 

And— fight hard! 

Mary Carolyn Davies. 



A Perfect Cake 

By Frances Campbell Sparhawk 



WHY, Anna, I didn't know you 
were interested in cooking," 
said Mrs. Mattison to her 
friend and neighbor who had come to 
her begging to be shown how to make a 
perfect cake. 

"Well, Mrs. Mattison, I am — now," 
returned the girl smiling, while a faint 
color added beauty to her delicate com- 
plexion. **How much flour, did you 
say? I'm not bothering you, am I?" 
she added the next minute looking at 
the elderly lady anxiously. 

''Bothering me, child! Why, I'm 
only too delighted to show you all I know. 
The only trouble is that cooking is like 
so many other things; when you try 
your very best and are really anxious, 
either you're likely to forget some ingre- 
dient, or put in too much, or too little 
of it; or else the oven will behave as if 
it were possessed of evil spirits, and the 
cake falls into sogginess, or gets burned 
to bitterness, if not to a crisp." 

"You'll not let those things happen, 
any of them," said Anna confidently. 

The other gave her a scrutinizing 
glance as the girl stood picking the stems 
from the raisins. What was up, the 
gazer wondered? Why this new fond- 
ness for cake-making ? And why choose 
to have only raisins of the largest size 
and finest quality in her cake when for 
such purpose everybody used a cheaper 
kind? And why as determined that it 
should be right as if her life depended 
upon it ? 

"How many cups of raisins did you 
say?" questioned Anna. "And how 
much citron?" 

And so the work went on. Cooking 
eggs would not do; she had bought the 
freshest to be obtained. Mrs. Mattison 
laughed. "Your eggs are so large," she 
said, "I'm not sure I can use the full 
number." 



"Oh, can't you?" queried the girl. 
"Won't the cake fall if you don't?" 

"Did you never hear of too much of a 
good thing, childie? But we'll see." 

"Let me beat the eggs," pleaded Anna. 
"I want to do all the work on it I can. 
And let me beat the mixture when it 
comes to that. Really, I'm good at that. 
I've practiced gymnastics so much that 
my arms never get tired." And she 
did beat, as her instructor told her, 
splendidly. But the latter noticed that 
when she was doing this work, which 
allowed her thoughts to be elsewhere, a 
cloud came over the sweet face, and once 
there were tears in her eyes. Was she 
doing this work only to take her mind 
from some sorrow, just to occupy her- 
self? But the other was a wise woman, 
as well as a kind one, and she asked no 
questions. Then Anna brightened with 
the various ingredients to be measured 
and put into the cake and the propor- 
tions she studied so carefully. "It's 
really a science," she declared. "I 
don't see why people think that every- 
body can cook! I only hope I can — 
that is, by proxy," she added. "For 
if this turns out well, it will be wholly 
your doing, Mrs. Mattison, not mine 
at all." 

"No, that's not so, my dear. Not 
only have you helped me with every 
thing; but you've put your mind and 
heart into the work, and that always 
counts toward success." 

"Ha! ha! What were you saying 
just now about things not being so 
good when one took too much trouble?" 
retorted the other with a twinkle in her 
eyes. 

"Quite different. That's worry and 
nervousness. And nervousness would 
spoil Heaven, if it were ever to be allowed 
to get there. When I was a girl, I read 
a book in which with many things I've 



196 



A PERFECT CAKE 



197 



forgotten was one sentence that I always 
remembered. It was where the heroine 
tells a young girl in answer to the ques- 
tion how she is to learn politeness, that 
she is to learn it in the same way her 
music teacher told her to learn to play 
with expression — to cultivate her heart. 
If you really love cooking, you'll do it, 
never fear. And if you don't — you'd 
better get a cook." 

While the cake was in the oven the 
frosting was being made from the 
ingredients already set aside. Here 
Anna's gymnastic experience brought 
good results; and she watched with the 
greatest attention Mrs. Mattison's scru- 
pulous use of flavorings, how one flavor 
mixed with another produced richness 
and an entirely new flavor. 

"You're an artist!" she cried with 
enthusiasm. **I wonder if your brush 
and your skill in mixing colors can have 
anything to do with the delicacy of 
your taste? Have the palette and the 
palate anything to do with one another 
really ? " she laughed. 

'Terhaps so, Anna. I believe that 
one thing teaches another, even if the 
two appear to be on quite different lines. 
You see, it is the same brain working 
upon both, and there is a greater sim- 
plicity and unity in the universe than 
we dream of ; it is we who so often make 
complexities and botches because we do 
not understand things." 

"At last! At last: And it's baked 
exactly right! I knew it would be!" 
cried the girl as Mrs. Mattison's careful 
hands took it from the oven. "How 
finely it has risen, and what a perfect 
golden brown, and not the very least bit 
burned. It's a perfect cake! How can 
I ever thank you, Mrs. Mattison?" 

"Yes — baked to a *T', as we used to 
say," laughed the other with a touch of 
complacence. It was a pleasure to her 
to succeed, and especially when success 
gave such delight to this dear girl. 
Then came the frosting. "Now we will 
put it into the pantry, and you shall 
run in for it when it has cooled." 



"Thank you again so much. It will 
not take long to cool, will it ? I — I must 
have it this afternoon," she said after an 
instant's pause. "It has to go — It must 
be ready, you see," she repeated. 

"It will be all ready. And, my dear, 
I hope you will enjoy eating it as much 
as I have enjoyed helping you make it." 

"7 eat it!" exclaim.ed Anna with scorn 
in her tones at the suggestion. "Why, 
do you think I did all that just to eat it 
myself?" She hesitated a moment; 
then she added, "Some day I hope to tell 
you all about it, dear friend; you have 
been so kind. But I can't just now. 
You don't mind, do you? I — " She 
stopped, and there were tears in her eyes. 

The other kissed her. "If you've 
nothing more than that to worry about, 
you needn't grow thin over it, childie," 
she said. "And come back this after- 
noon." 

A heavy storm was brewing when 
Anna returned for her cake. She carried 
it home carefully. The storm had be- 
gun in earnest an hour later, when Mrs. 
Mattison saw Anna pass the window on 
her way to the electric cars. She was 
carrying her umbrella less over herself 
than over a box that she was holding in 
her hand. "As if it were all eggs," 
smiled the watcher to herself surmising 
that it was the cake. Where was she 
going? The memory of a rumor, and a 
flash of insight revealed the probable 
truth to the elder lady, and her smile 
changed to a sigh and a look of sym- 
pathy. "Poor child! Dear child, if it 
is so," she said to herself. 

"Am I late?" cried Anna an hour 
afterward coming into a room filled with 
people busy with packages in all stages 
of preparation for shipping. 

"Just in season — that is, if your pack- 
age is properly done up. Some brought 
in are so miserably wrapped they will 
have to be made up all over. That will 
delay them a week. Let me see yours, 
if you please," said a pleasant-faced 
young woman coming forward to^meet 
Anna. * * Oh, yes, yours is finely wrapped ; 



198 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



it will go this evening, Miss Bourne." 
"Thank you so much," answered 
Anna. She stood a few minutes looking 
upon the busy scene around her, pack- 
ages being boxed for the out-going 
steamer. Then she silently went away; 
and as she did so, her tears were falling. 
"Will it ever get there, I wonder?" she 
said to herself. "And if it does, will 
— will it be understood?" 

Somewhere in France! Interminable 
trenches running into one another in a 
manner to be understood only by the 
initiated, some so deep that the narrow 
line of blue far above looked as it might 
were one gazing from basement to roof 
of a sky-scraper. And in these intermin- 
able trenches men, men, everywhere men, 
who, each one of them, knew that the next 
moment might be his last, yet who with 
invincible courage were all filling up life 
to the full with the occupations and even 
amusements possible in those conditions 
— reading, talking, laughing, smoking, 
sleeping, hearing as if they did not heed 
the horror of the unceasing roar of artil- 
lery as from cannon lighted in inferno 
and ready at any moment to turn their 
resting place into a graveyard. Yet, 
even so, they had made as best they 
could what semblance of a habitation 
was possible to them. It has been said 
that the world without woman would 
be a camp ; yet in these trenches, which 
were to them a camp, the memory of 
woman was fresh and the soldiers, as they 
made the best of their surroundings, 
emphasized, here and there, touches of 
that home life present to each in the 
thought of the woman dearest to him. 

The roar of the artillery deepened, 
the shells screamed more loudly overhead. 
The men nodded at one another and 
commented that "they," which signified 
"the enemy" were "trying it on hard 
this time; somebody was catching it." 
"But our boys are giving them better," 
they added ; and every man went on with 
what he was doing until the summons 
should come — summons to the infantry 



attack, which to many might be a sum- 
mons direct to the world beyond; who 
could tell? Only, surely it would be 
death to some of them. But they would 
live until their time came. 

Suddenly, from far up the line, a 
signal. And there sprang into the faces 
of the men an alertness, an expectant 
stillness, and in the hush the sound of 
approaching footsteps which the trained 
ears could catch through the roar of the 
outside hell. It was the postman. 

"News from home, boys!" cried one 
to another. "Who are the lucky ones 
this morning?" And groups crowded 
about the man as he delivered to some 
missives from their dear ones. Then 
the postman, who was new to the route, 
asked for Captain Atkinson. 

"In the officers' quarters," answered 
one of the soldiers, "in that dugout just 
beyond." And he pointed out the way, 
and returned to his own letter. 

"A package for Captain Atkinson," 
announced the postman. 

A tall, slender young man with dark 
eyes, evidently an American fighting 
here side by side with France in her 
straits, called "Here!" as the postman 
came toward him. A message from his 
own land, and a sizable one. From 
whom? The postmark was not of his 
own city, for, although it was too blurred 
to read, it was too long for that. He 
studied it attentively, and, at last, made 
out letters enough to assure him that it 
was from her home. He had several 
acquaintances in that city; but to him 
there was but one — his heart beat fast; 
a wave of color ran over his face. Was 
it possible she had been thinking of him — 
thinking enough to send him anything? 
No — impossible ! And yet — she had writ- 
ten to him only once. It was true that 
once — how long ago it seemed to him! — 
they had looked into one another's eyes, 
and each had read there a confession that 
had kindled their hearts. He was about 
to speak the very next day. But she 
had gone away for a week. And before 
the week was over he had offered his 



A PERFECT CAKE 



199 



services to France. Then he was off, 
with only a clasp of her hand and another 
long gaze which, at least, should have told 
her his heart and his purpose. But he 
would not speak on the eve of what 
might be to him a campaign of death. 
If she loved him — and how could he be 
quite sure? — he would not ask her be- 
trothal to a man who might have but 
weeks, or days, of life. Her one letter 
in answer to his had been so kind. It 
seemed to him that his to her had been 
cold; for he had not allowed himself to 
utter all his heart, and to him it had 
seemed that he had uttered none of it. 
He had faced, unflinching, the terrible 
fire of the enemy; but now his fingers 
trembled as they held what might be 
her message. 

"Monsieur, le capitaine finds the out- 
side of his packet the more interesting?" 
queried a courteous yet laughing voice. 
And Atkinson roused himself to see the 
face of a comrade smiling into his own 
with a sympathy under its amusement; 
and he perceived that his other brother 
officers were watching him courteously, 
but with that interest bred of days and 
nights together in face of a common 
destruction which at any moment might 
overtake them, and with the curiosity 
which in the dearth of outside interest 
the most trivial incident would arouse. 
But as he began to undo the wrappings, 
the watchers turned aside politely lest 
scrutiny should embarrass him. 

"Regarded, messieurs!" he cried at 
last. And at once they turned a full 
gaze upon what had been receiving 
surreptitious observation. 

Exclamations broke from the group. 
"Un gateau!" cried one. "Tres beau! 
Perfait!" And he examined the frosting 
with interest. At the moment another 
stooped and picked up a bit of pasteboard 
that had dropped unseen by Atkinson, 
and silently handed it to him, smiling as 
he did so. 

When Anna had left her cake to be 
forwarded, she had gone home, and that 
night had cried herself to sleep for her 



boldness. Would it not seem to him 
fair effrontery? Would he read too 
plainly that her heart was in it ? But as 
Atkinson stood looking at the card that 
declared the sender, he said to himself, 
"How brave in her!" The cake his 
friends should share. But the card, 
her name, and under it in her own hand- 
writing, "with best wishes" — this was 
all his own. As he slipped the bit of 
pasteboard into his pocket life took on 
a new value. He listened with enjoy- 
ment to the enthusiastic comments of 
the young fellows who with him 
"sampled" the cake. "Certainly, she 
has a big heart — cette mademoiselle — " 
cried one. "Behold her Christmas 
raisins !" "It is of a flavor unequalled !" 
exclaimed a third. Atkinson had shared 
their dainties from home, and had been 
as polite regarding them as the French- 
men now, and rightly, for they had been 
fine. But that morning he told himself 
with pride that nothing in France had 
tasted like this cake; it really was 
"perfect". Also, to him it was the 
ambrosia of the gods. 

But in the midst of talk and laughter 
came their summons to attack. 

Atkinson's dearest comrade crowded 
his last bit of cake into his mouth. 
"Farewell!" he said with a nod and a 
smile at the giver as he ran to his duty — 
and it was "farewell". The captain 
shoved the remainder of the loaf into 
his pocket ; it was not large now, for he 
had insisted that his comrades sample 
generously. It was the thought of 
himself and the card that were the 
treasures he would not part with. The 
next moment he was leading his men 
against the foe — a terrible charge. 

As the scythe mows down the grass 
in the meadow, so were men mowed 
down by the scythe of death. With the 
attackers it was frightful; with the 
attacked, even worse. How long it 
lasted Atkinson never knew; he was in 
the inferno, and it was an eternity of 
horror. 

(Continued on page 246) 



Hallowe'en Merriment 

By Jeannette Young Norton 



THE celebration of Hallowe'en be- 
gan many, many years ago, in 
Scotland where everybody be- 
lieved in witches. Of course, it is all just 
make believe to us in these days, for the 
games and tricks that we play are done 
for fun though once they were played in 
superstitious seriousness. 

On this particular night witches were 
supposed to ride over the land on their 
broomsticks, and people would gather at 
one anothers' houses to play games and 
cast magic spells to keep them away. 
Not until the wee small hours did they 
consider themselves safely insured for an- 
other year against the power of the 
witchcraft. 

Fire and candle light seem naturally to 
belong to Hallowe'en night festivities 
and the fun would be incomplete with- 
out the grinning pumpkin lanterns. The 
open fire is ideal for toasting marshmal- 
lows, popping corn and roasting chest- 
nuts. Also, if the guests are given a little 
bundle of faggots upon their arrival^ which 
they are later expected to throw on the 
fire as they tell their most thrilling ghost 
story, a most novel feature is added to 
the night. The tales should be weird 
enough to start the cold chills rioting 
down one's spine, which is part of the fun. 

The witching walnut always appeals 
to every "laddie and his lass" who are 
expecting to become engaged in the near 
future, or who have already decided the 
momentous question. They anxiously 
watch the witching walnuts as they roast, 
side by side, before the fire. If they just 
sputter and pop, but remain side by side, 
they accept the good omen; but if they 
pop and jump away from one another, it 
causes the young people much specula- 
tive anxiety as to their future peace and 
happiness. 

All the old, well known games and 
tricks are revived, and they include 



bobbing for apples, biting the swinging 
apple, toss the handkerchief, forfeits, 
guessing games, spin the platter, stage 
coach, and even post office; there are, 
also, several games not as well known, 
one of the j oiliest being the race. The 
horses in this game are scissors, the jock- 
eys are the girls, the betters the men, and 
the track a narrow strand of white tape. 
The tapes are fastened at one side of the 
room and two yards away the girls hold 
the other ends. The trick is to cut the 
tapes in halves as quickly as possible, 
but if a piece is cut off in the haste, then 
the "horse is scratched." There are 
first and second prizes for the winners, 
and the men are supplied with bags of 
beans to bet with. This game works the 
fun and excitement up to the hilarious 
point of appreciation needed for freaks. 
In this game each person draws on a 
passed and folded paper a portion of any 
animal's body he chooses, the leader, of 
course, having started with the head. 
The paper being carefully folded, no one 
knows what the previous artist has 
drawn, and the results are screamingly 
funny when the papers are opened. 

Mystery tricks do not grow moss- 
covered with age and each generation is 
quite ready to take a chance on them, at 
least, once. And, 'tis said, if you re- 
member to cross your shoes in a letter 
"T" and get into bed backwards, no evil 
results will follow this tempting of fate. 

Refreshments and decorations of 
some sort belong to every party that is 
of annual occurrence, so pumpkin vines 
and corn tassels, goblin cakes and gnome 
punch, belong to Hallowe'en. Of 
course, lots of other good things may be 
borrowed from other feasts, if one is be- 
ginning the festivities with a dinner 
party. In this case the following scheme 
of decoration, and menu with recipes 
attached, may come in handy. 



200 



HALLOWE'EN MERRIMENT 



201 



This is a semi-cubist idea in black and 
white decoration, which works out at- 
tractively for this dinner. Crepe paper 
lends itself satisfactorily to the decora- 
tions and is inexpensive. Cover the 
table top, above the silence cloth, with a 
thickness of white crepe paper, arrang- 
ing an eighteen inch flounce, . bordered 
with black silhouette figures of cats, 
witches, brooms, bats and owls, around 
the edge of the table, headed by a tight- 
ly twisted black and white paper cord; 
the cord and flounce to be sewed lightly 
around the edge. The shiny black bor- 
der figures come cut and gummed for the 
purpose. Use a black paper center- 
piece that has a fringe of the silhouette 
figures around the edge to match the 
border, placing in the middle a medium- 
sized pumpkin shell hollowed out and 
filled with bright colored fruit. Use 
white paper candle shades decorated 
with black silhouette figures; and black 
and white striped china. 

For the place cards the white plate 
rings decorated with the black figures 
are new and attractive. Beside each 
plate place a tiny black canvas bag filled 
with salted nuts. The menu should 
follow the color scheme of the decoration 
as far as possible. By way of suggestion 
this menu is offered with the recipes for 
the making of any unusual dish it may 
contain. 

MENU 

Oyster Canape 

Lobster Bisque 

Cod au Gratin 

Broiled Squab, glazed sweet potatoes, peas. 

Apricot Ice 

Hearts of Lamb Chops Parisienne 

Broiled Potatoes 

Harvest Salad 

Tutti Frutti Cream, Silver Cake 

Coffee 

Claret cup may be served throughout 
the dinner under the name of "witches' 
brew, " or any of the fruit punches will do, 
if the claret is objected to, but served 
in this way they should not be made 
very sweet. For the oyster canapes 
allow three small oysters to a portion. 



Steep theni in their own liquor for two 
minutes, or until the beards curl. Re- 
move, drain, and set them aside to chill. 
When ready for use drain again, dry on 
a soft cloth, and add, for fifty oysters, a 
level saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, a 
saltspoonful of salt, the juice of one onion, 
a teaspoonful of Oscar's sauce, a table- 
spoonful of tomato ketchup, and two 
tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise; mix all 
thoroughly but do not break the oysters. 
Spread the toast rounds lightly with an- 
chovy paste, lay three oysters on each 
and sprinkle a little chopped chives on top, 
garnishing the center with a pimiento 
olive. 

Boil three lobsters weighing from two 
to two and a half pounds, each, and when 
they are cold remove the meat from the 
large claws and tails, dice it and set aside. 
Pound the rest of the meat and shell and 
stew it in a quart of fish-broth for thirty 
minutes; season highly, adding a bunch 
of sweet herbs; strain, add a pint of hot 
cream, and thicken slightly if necessary 
with butter and flour rubbed to a cream ; 
add the diced lobster, and serve. 

The cod au gratin is made in the 
usual way. The squabs should be 
trussed before broiling so that they serve 
well on a square of toast. The apricot 
ice should not be frozen hard when it is 
used in this way. Cut the heart from 
lamb chops enough to allow one to each 
portion; saute them in butter and serve 
each on a large artichoke bottom with a 
Newburg sauce over them and sliced 
truffles as a garnish. 

For the harvest salad boil two good- 
sized heads of cauliflower until done, but 
not to breaking point; drain and cool 
them when done. When cold cut in 
branches and allow them to marinate in 
French dressing to which has been added 
the juice of an onion, a bud of garlic, and 
a teaspoonful of spiced syrup for one 
hour. Drain, arrange on red beet leaves, 
sprinkle each portion with a little 
chopped taragon, and cover with mayon- 
naise. 



Ah Sing's Coals of Fire 

By Donald A. Fraser 



AH SING reigned supreme in the 
Renwicks' kitchen, and by right 
of merit; for Ah Sing was that 
rara avis among hired help, Asiatic or 
otherwise, an excellent cook, and a faith- 
ful servant. His kitchen was the very 
apotheosis of neatness and cleanliness. 
Range, pots, pans, and all other utensils, 
beamed radiant gratitude to their placid, 
slant-eyed guardian, as he silently glided 
around in his thick-soled Chinese slip- 
pers. Serene as a summer cloud was 
Ah Sing at all times, save when anyone 
other than his acknowledged superior, 
Mrs. Renwick, dared to enter the kit- 
chen, his sanctum sanctorum, and dis- 
arrange his culinary apparatus. On 
such occasions the almond eyes would 
darken, the placid brows would contract, 
and a low rumbling of jerky monosyl- 
lables, which probably would not bear 
translation, would emerge from that us- 
ually smiling mouth, eventually culmina- 
ting in the outspoken English, "What 
fo' you do dat? You not muchee 
sabbee." Then Ah Sing would proceed 
to operate things to his own liking. 
Such occurrences were very rare, how- 
ever. There was usually no one to dis- 
turb the serenity of the kitchen; for Mrs. 
Renwick's two daughters, Maud and 
Grace, had been at college in a distant 
part of the country for three years ; so it 
was only when some officious visitor came 
down to putter around, or Master Fred 
wanted to make paste in the dipper, or 
develop photographs in the sink, that 
Ah Sing had any opportunity to display 
the gray lining of his silver cloud. 

One morning, as Ah Sing stood by the 
sunny kitchen window scanning his ac- 
count book with its curious calculations, 
looking for all the world like pressed 
spiders, Mrs. Renwick opened the door 
and said, "Sing, my two girls are coming 
home to-day." 



"Oh, velly good! What him name?" 
. "Maud and Grace." 

"Him nicee gal?" 

"Why, yes, Sing. My girls are fine 
girls. Very jolly girls. They like lots 
of fun." 

In the afternoon the girls arrived, and, 
of course, were all over the house before 
long. Mrs. Renwick brought them 
down to the kitchen, and introduced 
them to Ah Sing, who shook hands bash- 
fully with both of them. 

"How do, Missie Maudie; how do 
Missie Glacie. Velly fine day." 

This was all he could say; but he 
smiled benignly upon the two blooming 
school-girls who had descended like an 
avalanche into his domain. 

For two or three days everything 
went smoothly. The girls were too busy 
running around seeing all their old 
friends to be much at home; but when 
Ah Sing met either of them anywhere in 
the house, he always had one of his ser- 
aphic smiles ready. He privately in- 
formed Mrs. Renwick, "Me t'ink 
Missee Maudie an' Missee Glacie heap 
nice gal. Him allee same angel." 
The girls were much amused by this 
glowing compliment. The next morn- 
ing they both appeared in the kitchen. 

"Good morning. Ah Sing," they said 
together. 

"Good mo'ning, Missee Maudie, Mis- 
see Glacie. What you want?" 

"Oh! Ah Sing, you give us little sauce- 
pan, we want to make some fudge." 

"What you call fudgee?" 

"Fudge is a kind of candy. You 
sabbee candy. Sing?" 

"Yes, me sabbee candy. You makee 
candy, you no burnee saucepan; you no 
dirty stove?" 

"Oh, no! Sing. We do everything 
fine. We are angels, you know." 

The girls laughed, and Ah Sing 



202 



AH SING'S COALS OF FIRE 



203 



blushed; but he produced the necessary 
utensils and ingredients, and waited 
patiently until they should be finished 
and gone. He frowned somewhat when 
Maud spilled some milk on the floor ; and 
when Gj-ace splashed some of the de- 
coction on the stove, the frown deepened 
to a scowl. 

The fudge was eventually finished; 
but it was no sooner in the cooling-pans, 
than Mrs. Renwick's voice was heard 
upstairs. 

"There's mother calling, Maud," said 
Grace, 'let's go. Sing, you wash things. 
You very nice Chinaman. We think 
you Chinese angel. Ah Sing. Good-by," 
and off they ran. 

Sullenly, the Chinaman washed the 
soiled utensils ; cleaned off the top of the 
stove; and opened the window to let 
out the smell of burned sugar; but his 
opinion of the Misses Renwick had ev- 
idently fallen about ten degrees. 

A day or two afterwards, there was 
another fudge-making, and again, still 
another, each time Ah Sing's reception 
of the young ladies growing chillier, 
and his replies more curt; till it was 
not long before they realized that they 
had about reached the zero point in his 
regard. 

One day, howeA^er, there was a change. 
On their arrival in the kitchen no one 
could be more gracious than the smiling 
Chinaman. He bustled around and got 
everything ready for them, and did all 
he could to help them; at the same time 
watching carefully the quantities of the 
ingredients necessary, and how they were 
mixed. When everything was com- 
pleted, he said: 



*'A11 finishee now. You go. Me 
washee." 

This sudden change in his behavior 
was extremely bewildering to the girls; 
they could not fathom it at all. 

Next morning as the Renwicks were 
just finishing their breakfast, the door 
opened, and in walked Ah Sing, as sol- 
emn and as stately as a judge, with some- 
thing on a plate. Setting the plate on 
the table, he said, 

"Some fudgee for Missee Maudie an' 
Missee Glacie." 

"Oh! Ah Sing, you are a Chinese angel 
and no mistake. What splendid fudge, 
too! Mother, do have a piece." 

The Chinaman said nothing, he did 
not even smile, but stalked out of the 
room as solemnly as he had entered it. 

Next morning brought Ah Sing with 
another plate of fudge, and the next 
day, too, and the next. And so it went 
on for a week, till the whole Renwick 
family were simply sick of the sight of 
fudge. 

At his next appearance with the plate, 
Maud arose from her chair in wrath, 

"Look here! Ah Sing, you take that 
fudge back to the kitchen, and don't let 
me see any more of it, or I'll throw it out 
of the window. I don't want to see any 
more fudge as long as I live." 

Ah Sing obediently turned about and 
descended to his own quarters; but the 
smile of the victor hovered on his bland 
face when he lifted the lid of the stove, 
and let the contents of the plate fall 
sizzling therein. As he did so he mut- 
tered to himself, 

"Me Chinee angel! Yes, yes. I 
t'ink me litty bit Chinee debble, too." 



Our Flag 



It once was a banner of colors fair, 

Of silk or cotton or crepe: 
It once was a boutonniere to wear 

Or a pretty scarf to drape. 
It once was a pennant in gay parade, 

To cheer when the cheerings lag; 
But now: — It's the banner for which we'd die, 

An emblem, a pledge, our Flag! 



It once was a theme for rousing song, 

For a speaker's lips to frame, 
In a talk on honor, and right, and wrong, 

And a fair and lasting fame. 
It once was a lovely, lifeless thing, 

Of which we could idly brag; 
But now: — It's the banner for which we'd die, 

An emblem, a pledge, our Flag! 

L. M. Thornton. 



English Walnut Trees 

By Hollister Sage 



CULTIVATION of the English 
Walnut is not only one of the 
newest but one of the most rap- 
idly growing industries in the United 
States; and, of course, the reason for this 
is readily traced to the fact that this 
country is producing only about one 
half enough of these nuts to supply the 
demand. 

The Persian Walnut, commonly called 
the English Walnut, was named "Nut 
of the Gods", nineteen hundred years 
ago, by the Romans, and by them was 
distributed throughout Southern Europe, 
where descendants of these original trees 
are now standing — some of them more 
than a thousand years old — lasting 
monuments to the men who conquered 
these countries. In many places these 
same trees are producing a large part of 
the total income; in truth, the United 
States alone is importing more than five 
million dollars' worth of nuts from these 
trees every year, and about half a million 
dollars' worth of their timber. English 
Walnut timber is very valuable, having 
a handsome grain and being unusually 
heavy, so heavy, in fact, that the green 
wood will not float in water. The wood 
is used in the manufacture of gunstocks 
and furniture, having a greater value 
than mahogany. Single trees have been 
known to sell for more than |3,ooo. 

Realizing the importace of having 
a home supply of English Walnut trees, 
France passed a law in 1720 prohibiting 
the exportation of the timber. How 
well advised was this move may be 
appreciated now when it is known that 
the United States is importing yearly 
from Southern France a large percent- 
age of our total consumption of 50,000- 
000 pounds of English Walnuts. 

The Romans did not neglect Eng- 
land; for, as a result of their invasion, 
many of these fine trees, hundreds of 



years old, are scattered along the roads 
and drives in every part of the islands. 
Some are nearly a hundred feet high 
with a spread of more than a hundred 
feet and bearing thousands of nuts for 
their owners every year. One tree is 
reported to be more than a thousand 
years old and to produce more than 
100,000 nuts a year, being a chief factor 
in the support of five families. In Eng- 
land, by the way, it is customary to 
eat the fresh nuts, after the removal of 
the outer skin, with wine, the two dain- 
ties being served together. 

The Germans, also, were quick to dis- 
cover the great intrinsic value to their 
country of these trees, and very early 
formed the habit of planting a young 
English Walnut tree to take the place of 
one which for any reason had been cut 
down. The Germans were also said to 
have promulgated in certain localities a 
law which required every young farmer 
intent on marriage to show proof that he 
was the father of a stated number of 
English Walnut trees. 

It is believed the first English Walnut 
tree in this country was planted by Roger 
Morris in 1758 at what is now known 
as Washington Heights, New York City. 
George Washington must have found 
that tree in 1776. Just one hundred 
years later, Norman Pomeroy, of Lock- 
port, N. Y., father of E. C. Pomeroy of 
the English Walnut Farms, found a tree 
in Philadelphia, possibly a descendant 
of the original Morris tree. Mr. Pom- 
eroy 's tree was loaded with an except- 
ionally fine variety of sweet-flavored 
nuts, thin-shelled and with a very full 
meat. That very tree, with Mr, Pom- 
eroy 's help, was the progenitor of all the 
English Walnut groves in Western New 
York, as well as of the many fruitful and 
ornamental trees now growing in all parts 
of the north and east. 



204 



ENGLISH WALNUT TREES 



205 



Experts say there is no good reason 
why this country should not raise, at 
least, enough English Walnuts for our 
own needs, and even export a few million 
dollars' worth. We are now importing 
more dollars' worth of these nuts than 
both Canada and the United States are 
exporting in apples — and this, too, 
when Canada and the United States are 
known as apple countries. 

California is producing about 12,000 
tons a year. That state's crop last year 
would have been more than 13,000 tons, 
had there not been three days of ex- 
tremely hot weather about the middle of 
September, the thermometer registering 
115 in many of the walnut sections. 
This torrid period seriously burned about 
2,200 tons of nuts, yet the crop realized 
more than three and a half million 
dollars. 

The California growers do not have the 
frosts to open the outer shucks which 
we have here in the east, but they over- 
come this drawback in a great measure 
by irrigating a few days before the nuts 
are ripe. They begin the harvest the 
last of September, gathering the nuts 
which have fallen, drying them in trays 
for a few days, then taking them to the 
Association packing houses, where they 
are bleached and sacked. The Associa- 
tion does the shipping and marketing, 
the grower gets his check on delivery at 
the warehouse. For there is no waste 
and the nuts are all sold before the har- 
vest begins; in fact, often oversold. 

In some of the old missions of Cali- 
fornia there are English Walnut trees more 
than one hundred and forty years old, 
with trunks four feet in diameter. 
There are many of these individual an- 
cient trees throughout the state, but the 
oldest of the orchards are from thirty- 
five to forty years. Some of these trees 
have a spread of eighty feet or more and 
the growers consider that an English 
Walnut orchard will bear profitably for 
at least two hundred years. 

If trees will do this in irrigated sections, 
they will live and grow much longer in 



unirrigated places, for it is well known 
that the roots of trees not irrigated go 
much deeper into the sub-soil and get the 
moisture and nourishment which this 
sub-soil furnishes. 

As an ornamental tree the English 
Walnut is unsurpassed. It has a light 
bark and dark green foliage which re- 
mains until late in the Fall, being shed 
with the nuts in October and never dur- 
ing the summer. It is also an except- 
ionally clean tree and beautifully shaped. 

The demand for this nut is increasing 
rapidly, as its great food value is con- 
stantly becoming better known. Its 
meat contains many times more nutri- 
ment than the same amount of beef 
steak. 

Thus it may be seen that the planting 
of English Walnut trees not only is an 
exceedingly lucrative venture for the 
present generation, but it means the con- 
ferring of a priceless boon upon the gen- 
erations to come. Some states are con- 
sidering the advisability of planting these 
trees along the new State Roads, after 
the custom in England and Germany, 
where practically all the walnuts are dis- 
tributed along the drives or serve as or- 
namental shade trees upon the lawns. 
There is one avenue in Germany which 
is bordered on both sides for ten miles by 
enormous English Walnut trees, which 
meet in the center, thus forming a beau- 
tiful, covered lane and, at the same time 
yielding hundreds of dollars' worth of 
nuts each season. 

It is the custom in England and Ger- 
many to lease the trees to companies 
which pay so much for the privilege of 
harvesting the nuts, thus attaching to 
the trees a value similar to that of gilt- 
edged bonds, yielding a steady income 
to the owners with no work involved. 

Besides the demand for the English 
Walnut as a table and confectionery del- 
icacy, they are often used for pickles, 
catsup and preserves, and in France, 
many tons a year are made into oil, fur- 
nishing a splendid substitute for olive 
oil. 



206 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renev/al 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership atid management as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 191 2, 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

Business Managers: R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 
Entered at Bcjston Post-office as Second-class Matter. 



One Day 

Beyond the hill we watch the sunset go, 
Leaving the twilight to her ministry. 

Leaving to those who walk the vale below 

Unanswered still the day's brief mystery. 

At dawn the village hummed with quickened toil 
That rose and sank as noon and night drew 
nigh; 

And hushed again from restless life's turmoil. 
The shadowed streets in evening slumber lie. 

If we could solve the questions of this day, 
Seek out its goal, its end, and clearly see 

Why men thus sleep and toil the hours away 
We then would know what means eternity! 
Arthur Wallace Peach. 



PROSPECTIVE OUTLOOK 

IN the midst of constantly rising 
prices we are trying to maintain the 
price of this periodical the same as it 
has been in years past. We need not 
state here the items entering into the 
production of a publication like this 
that have risen in price, in fact we cannot 
mention an item that has not so risen — 
in some cases prices have been repeatedly 
advanced. Newspapers have been 
forced to curtail in size and quality of 
paper, even the price of the printed 
Bible has been raised on account of the 
high cost of paper. 

With conditions like these, ever chang- 
ing, ever threatening, we are continuing 
to the best of our ability, and instead 
of raising the price of subscription we 
are striving to stick to the old price as 
long as possible and thus bid for con- 
tinued patronage and support. 

Note now the excellent quality of 
American cookery in contents and 
make-up. Note the character, that of 
a reliable, high-grade, special periodical 
for the househo d; note the old price, 
one dollar a year, then hasten to favor 
us with a new sub:cription or the renewal 
of a subscription for one year. The season 
is approaching when lists of periodicals 
are made up for annual subscription, do 
not forget — American Cookery. 

WORK AND PLAY 

TO every thing there is a season, and 
a time to every purpose under 
the heaven." The vacation season 
has passed once more and the editor is 
again at her desk. This year the people 
of America have been taking vacations 
at home. The attendance at summer 
schools and Chautauquas, in every 
branch of instruction, we learn, has been 
very large, and nowhere have the 
courses in domestic science been over- 
looked. May we all have profited much 
from our excursions and learned much 
of worth from observation and exper- 
ience. In these days the process of 
events is marvelous indeed. 



EDITORIALS 



207 



The summer-time is an especially 
fitting season for women's vacation. 
Life in the open is eminently attractive, 
wholesome and becoming to her. She 
appears at her best. And yet life can 
not be one prolonged vacation, there is 
work to be done, service to render and 
ideals won. As some one has well 
said: 

"One can learn, in vacation- time, 
without going to a summer school. 
He can learn, for instance, if he is an 
average human being, that he cannot do 
nothing for many days in succession. 
Most people, in planningtheir vacations, 
model them on the lives of the isles of 
the lotus-eaters, — one long sunny 
dreamy afternoon. But, in practice, 
they find this to be boredom; and they 
return to their work, about as eagerly 
as they left it." 

CAN WHAT YOU CAN 

TT was a resident of the blueberry 
-^ plains of southeastern Maine who 
originally made the famous explanation 
that "we eat what we can, and can what 
we can't." That explanation embodied 
a sound economic doctrine that many 
housewives hesitate to subscribe to this 
year in view of the high price of sugar. 
Is their hesitation a wise course? One 
Newton housewife explained to a neigh- 
bor recently that the high price of sugar 
coupled with an abundant strawberry 
crop had forced the price of berries 
down so that it was cheaper to preserve 
them than in earlier years. 

The rising cost of living, coupled with 
the present good crop of berries and 
fruits, is ample warrant for a revival of 
the good old-fashioned home industry 
of canning and preserving. With sugar 
two or three cents above the normal, it 
means only a cent or so more for a 
quart can. That is a good investment 
for those who look ahead to the table 
needs of the coming winter — and there 
should be fewer reports this year of 
vast quantities of peaches, plums, pears, 
cherries and apples rotting on the trees. 



THE VIRTUE OF KITCHEN 
SERVICE 

TN New York city the other day the 
^ will of a domestic was filed which left 
$10,000 to her employer. The bequest 
was the savings of thirty years spent 
in the same employer's service. The 
significance of that might profitably 
be heralded over the United States. 
It was long been signalled as monumental 
virtue by the French Academy. Many 
years ago a Mr. Monteyon in Paris 
left a considerable sum to the academy 
to be distributed annually as the Prize 
of Virtue, and each year a large portion 
of the prize goes to reward conspicuous 
virtue in the kitchen — long periods 
of devoted service in the same house- 
hold; heroic acts of self-sacrifice on 
the part of domestics in favor of em- 
ployers under affliction or in want. 
The whole matter indicates that the 
servant problem so-called is possible of 
solution on clear lines. Serious appli- 
cation to business on the part of the 
domestic is proved profitable enough 
when, as in the case of the New York 
domestic, thirty years' service permits 
saving to the amount of 110,000. Many 
merchants and mechanics among men 
have less to show for the same period 
of labor. 

To encourage the kind of kitchen 
service that in France wins the Prix de 
Vertu and in New York achieves a 
modest fortune, the Housekeepers' Alli- 
ance in Washington has hit upon the 
plan of offering prizes to domestics. 
This organization has issued a card to be 
placed in the kitchen, making the 
announcement as follows: 

WAR ON WASTE. 

"The Housekeepers' Alliance asks 
home makers and house workers to cut 
out the waste in the home. 

"Don't waste food; it will feed the 
hungry. 

"Don't waste fuel; it furnishes power 
to keep men at work. 



208 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Economy in the home is the defence 
of the nation. 

"The Alhance invites each home 
maker to reward successful economies 
in her own kitchen, and to enter the 
results in competition for a prize to be 
offered for the best showing in economy 
during the next six months." 

This effort on the part of the Washing- 
ton group of housekeepers to popularize 
and make profitable kitchen work follows 
on the successful accomplishment of a 
breadmaking contest which the alliance 
has made a permanent exercise in the 
public schools. At the close of the 
past year, the alliance distributed a 
number of prizes in the form of $5 
savings bank accounts to girls who made 
the best loaves in a bread-making con- 
test involving several thousand pupils 
in the grade schools, black and white. 

Many interesting sidelights on the 
domestic problem developed in con- 
nection with the contest, as when girls 
were prevented from trying for the 
prize because the mothers did not want 
to be bothered by having their daughters 
in the kitchen, and when a certain 
number of other girls refused to take 
part in the contest because they did 
not care for a $5 savings bank account; 
they expressed a mild interest in $5 
to spend, but a prize of that amount 
invested in a savings bank account they 
regarded as a kind of infringement of 
the American child's heaven-born right 
to liberty in all things. 

In time, with the kind and condes- 
cending co-operation of the little Amer- 
ican school girl, house-wives in the 
United States may create a practical 
interest in domestic economy such as 
existed before the war in thrifty Bel- 
gium. There in peaceful days rural 
districts and neighborhoods in town 
organized domestic economy contests 
and honored with great distinction the 
woman who could make the best showing 
of successful household administra- 
tion. The Housekeepers' Alliance, 
striving in this direction, has a patriotic 



impulse back of its endeavor and an- 
nounces as the raison d'etre of its 
operations that household economy is 
the woman's part — the "better half" 
— of preparedness. — Boston Herald. 



"Love is not to be cutoff from Justice 
and Truth. But to those who seek justice 
and truth, those disciples of set visage and 
vowed resolve that form, in an old phrase 
'Christ's militia,' come the most gra- 
cious visitations of purified love, the most 
prompt and quick affections, the most 
tender and solicitous sympathies." 



"When Montaigne was presented to 
Charles XII of France, His Majesty 
condescendingly remarked, T have read 
your essays, and I like them." To 
which the great essayist replied, not 
without daring; Tf you like my essays 
you will like me. I am my essays.' 
How good, for us and our friends, it 
would be if we could thus identify our- 
selves with our words and deeds! So 
that our intimate friend, hearing some 
tale of us, of good or evil report, might 
be able to declare, promptly, 'He did it' 
or 'He did it not. I recognize the stamp 
of his character in it.' The reason why 
many thoughtful people, as they grow 
in years, read Montaigne, is that, as 
they recognize, more and more, the mis- 
leading indirection of men's words, they 
find relief in the words of this great 
French analyist, who spoke the naked 
truth about himself and the world." 



Faith 

Before you came, I only half believed — 

First, in myself. What had I ever done 
Half worth the doing? Or what battle won? 
What had I given for what I had received? 
Then in mankind — so much I saw of need, 

So much of bitterness and sin and strife, 

So little that was beautiful in life. 
And last, — in God. My eyes were blind indeed! 
And then you came — and now, beloved, I know 

Why should I doubt myself if it be true 
That you delight in what I can bestow? 

And how mankind, since in their midst you 
grew 
And with them still you daily come and go? 

Or God? He gave me life, and love, and you. 

Marjorie Hillis. 




BOILED HAM, COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE, DECOR-\TED AND MASKED WITH 
ASPIC JELLY, FOR BUFFET SERVICE 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Anchovy-and-Egg Canapes 

Cut bread in slices one-fourth an inch 
thick and stamp out into diamond or 
round shapes; spread both sides with 
butter and let brown delicately in a 
moderate oven. When cold have ready 
half a cup of fresh butter beaten to a 
cream; into this beat anchovy paste to 
tint and flavor as desired. Spread the 
shapes of bread lightly with the butter 
mixture. Set a slice of hard-cooked egg 
in the center; pipe a narrow thread of 
the butter around the edge and fill the 
space between the egg and the edge 
with fine-chopped pickled beet. Set a 
small round of egg-white, beet or truffle 
on the egg-yolk. Serve very cold as an 
appetizer at luncheon or dinner. 

Boston Baked Bean Soup 

Cook in a clean, white-lined sauce- 
pan, with two cups of boiling water, one 



quart of cold Boston baked beans, one 
quart can of tomatoes, one large onion, 
peeled and sliced, three stalks of celery, 
or the equivalent in celery leaves, and 
three or four branches of parsley, half 
an hour, then press through a sieve; 
add three tablespoonfuls of tomato 
catsup, two teaspoonfuls of salt and half 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter in a saucepan, 
add one-fourth a cup of flour and stir 
until frothy; pour on one cup of cold 
water and stir until smooth and boiling, 
then stir into the hot soup. Add more 
seasoning, if needed, and serve at once 
with croutons. 

A piece of ham bone boiled with the 
beans and vegetables gives a good flavor 
to the soup. 

Fried Sardines 

The sardines should be of large size; 
wipe each separately to free it of oil and 



209 



210 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



dip in an egg beaten and mixed with 
three tablespoonfuls of milk, then roll 
in soft sifted bread crumbs. Fry in 
deep fat and drain on soft paper. Serve 
on small slices of hot toast. Sprinkle 
a little red pepper, cayenne or paprika 
into the crumbs. Serve for breakfast, 
luncheon or supper. 

Fish, Point Shirley Style 

Skin and bone any fish from which 
well shaped filets of flesh may be taken. 
Separate the fiesh into individual por- 
tions. Cover the head bones and trim- 
mings with cold water. For a four- 
pound fish add to the trimmings and 



three tablespoonfuls of flour and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper; add half a cup of rich milk and 
one cup of the liquid in the pan; stir 
until boiling, then pour around the fish. 

Sword Fish or Chicken Halibut, 
Point Shirley Style 

Select a thick piece of sword fish or 
chicken halibut from below the opening 
of the fish. A piece four pounds in 
weight will serve from eight to twelve 
people. Lay six to ten thin shreds of 
fat salt pork in a baking pan and over 
them slice a peeled onion. Set the fish, 
broadest flesh side down, on the onion. 




SWORD FISH. POINT SHIRLEY STYLE 



water an onion and carrot, peeled or 
scraped and cut in slices, a few leaves of 
celery and two or three branches, each, 
of parsley and fresh or dried sweet basil. 
Let simmer half an hour, then strain off 
the broth. Set the pieces of fish in a 
buttered dish, a little distance apart, 
pour in hot broth to about half their 
height and let cook in the oven about 
ten minutes, basting once with the liquid 
in the pan. Have ready a cup of cracker 
crumbs rolled very fine (almost to flour) ; 
add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese and about one-fourth a cup of 
melted butter and mix together thor- 
oughly. Spread the crumbs about one- 
fourth an inch thick over the top of 
each piece of fish and return to the oven 
to brown the crumbs. Lift the fish with 
a broad spatula to the hot plates. Melt 
three tablespoonfuls of butter ; in it cook 



Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream; beat in one-fourth a cup of flour 
and half a teaspoonful of paprika and 
spread over the top of the fish. Sprinkle 
with nearly half a cup of cracker crumbs, 
and above the crumbs lay several thin 
slices of fat salt pork. Cover the whole 
with a buttered paper and let bake about 
one hour in a moderate oven. Remove 
the paper and let cook about ten minutes 
longer or until the crumbs are browned. 
Serve with drawn butter or Hollandaise 
sauce and lettuce, tomato or cucumber 
salad. 

Fried Pickerel 

Scale, clean and dress the fish thor- 
oughly; wash, dry on a cloth and let 
chill on ice. Cut through the fiesh down 
to the bone in two places on each side 
(especially if the fish be of good size) rub 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



211 




FRIED PICKEREL 



over inside and out with salt, roll in 
corn meal, and set to cook in plenty of 
fat tried out of fat salt pork. When 
Thrown on one side turn to brown the 
other side. Serve at once with sauce 
tartare or with sliced and dressed to- 
matoes or cucumbers. 

Turkish Chicken 

Separate a cleaned fowl into pieces at 
the joints, make two pieces of the larger 
joints, wash and wipe. In a large sauce- 
pan melt two tablespoonfuls of olive oil; 
in it stir and cook two tablespoonfuls of 
sliced onion and half a green pepper, also 
sliced, until softened and yellowed a 
little, then skim out the vegetables ; roll 
the pieces of chicken in flour and let 
cook in the oil (adding more oil if 
needed) until lightly browned, turning 
as needed to brown all sides. Return 
the vegetables to the saucepan, add three 
cups of cooked and strained tomato, a 
stalk of celery, three branches of parsley 



and boiling water just to cover the 
chicken. Cover and let simmer about 
one hour; add one teaspoonful of salt, 
and one cup of blanched rice and let 
cook until the chicken and rice are 
tender and the liquid is absorbed. Add 
more seasoning if needed. Turn the rice 
on a deep chop plate and dispose the 
chicken above the rice. Serve for 
luncheon or dinner. 

Fish Cakes 

These fish cakes are made from left- 
over potatoes and fish. Flake the fish 
with a silver fork. Set the potatoes over 
the fire in boiling water, let boil vigor- 
ously till heated through, drain and press 
through a ricer. There should be as 
much bulk of fish as potato. Add left- 
over sauce or cream to moisten, salt and 
pepper as needed and beat thoroughly. 
Shape into small cakes ; pat in flour and 
saute in fat tried out of mild-cured 
bacon. 




FISH CAKES BEING MADE READY FOR SAUTEING 



212 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Deviled Ham 

Cut cold boiled or baked ham in slices 
of uniform thickness. Mix together two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoon- 
ful of mustard, half ateaspoonful,each,of 
salt and paprika, then add Worcester- 
shire sauce to stir to a paste. Spread a 
little of this paste on both sides of the 
ham and broil about two minutes on 
each side. Serve hot for breakfast, 
luncheon, or supper. 



in half a pound of common factory 
cheese, cut in small and exceedingly thin 
slices, and stir constantly with a wooden 
spoon until the cheese is melted; add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
teaspoonful of paprika, one tablespoon- 
ful of picallilli or mixed mustard pickle, 
chopped fine, one teaspoonful of Wor- 
cestershire sauce and the yolks of two eggs 
beaten and mixed with half a cup of cream ; 
stir constantly and cook over boiling 
water until smooth and thickened some- 




ROAST LEG OF LAMB, FRANCONLA. POTATOES 



Roast Leg of Lamb, with 
Franconia Potatoes 

Remove superfluous fat from a leg of 
lamb, rub over with salt and flour and 
set, on a rack in a baking pan, into a 
hot oven; let cook about fifteen min- 
utes, then baste with hot fat, dredge 
with flour and turn the other side up- 
wards. Baste this side with fat, dredge 
with flour and let cook about W hour, 
basting with hot fat and dredging with 
flour each fifteen minutes, then turn and 
cook the other side in the same manner, 
about half an hour. When turning the 
meat the last time set potatoes, peeled 
and parboiled, around it on the rack and 
baste the potatoes with the fat each 
time the meat is basted. 

Deviled Rabbit 

Melt half a tablespoonful of butter in 
a chafing dish or a double boiler; put 



what. Serve at once for luncheon or sup - 
per, on hot crackers, or on the untoasted 
side of bread toasted on one side only. 

Cheese Ramekins 

Cut stale bread in slices about one 
inch and a half thick, then stamp out in 
rounds to fit the ramekins to be used. 
For six or eight dishes, beat two eggs, 
add half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika and one cup and a half of rich 
milk; mix thoroughly and pour, little 
by little, over the bread in the ramekins, 
until the bread has absorbed all it will. 
Set a bit of butter on each piece of bread, 
then cover the bread with a layer of 
grated or fine-chopped cheese half an 
inch or more in depth and dredge with a 
little paprika. Set into a moderately 
heated oven to "set" the custard in the 
bread and melt the cheese. Serve very 
hot as the substantial dish at luncheon 
or supper. 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



213 




TOMATO-AND-CUCUMBER SALAD 



Cheese Fondu 

Melt one tablespoonful of butter in 
one cup of cooked rice; add half a cup 
of cheese grated or cut fine, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
two egg-yolks beaten until thick, and 
two-thirds a cup of milk, then fold in 
the whites of two eggs beaten very stiff 
and turn into a buttered baking dish. 
Let cook in a moderate oven about 
twenty-five minutes. Serve hot as a 
luncheon or supper dish with stewed 
apples or prunes or canned fruit or with a 
green vegetable salad. 

Tomato- and- Cucumber 
Salad 

Peel choice, chilled tomatoes and cut 
them in slices; pare a cucumber with a 
plain and, then, with a fluted knife, and 
cut it in thin shces. To half a cup of 
olive oil add four tablespoonfuls of 



vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, then 
scrape in a tablespoonful or more of 
onion juice and pulp; mix all together 
thoroughly and pour over the tomatoes 
and cucumbers. Lettuce, cress or endive 
are all good with cucumbers and to- 
matoes. 

Baked Bean Timbales 

Press one cup of Boston baked beans 
through a puree sieve; add half a cup 
of soft sifted bread crumbs, one tea- 
spoonful of scraped onion pulp, one 
teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, half 
a teaspoonful of paprika, three table- 
spoonfuls of tomato puree, one table- 
spoonful of tomato catsup and two eggs 
beaten until well mixed. Mix all together 
thoroughly and turn into buttered tim- 
bale molds (a single pint mold may be 
used) ; let bake standing on many folds 
of paper and surrounded by boiling 




PHILADELPHIA BUTTER BUNS (See page 217) 



214 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



water until firm in the center, (about 
twenty minutes.) Serve hot, turned 
from the molds, with either a brown or a 
tomato sauce. 

Tomato Sauce 

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter; 
in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and ane-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and pepper; add one cup of tomato 
puree and half a cup of rich brown broth, 
seasoned with vegetables and spices, and 
stir until boiling. 

Curried Vegetables 

Grate the flesh of half a cocoanut ; add 
one pint of milk and let slowly heat in a 
double boiler until scalded; strain 
through a cheesecloth, pressing out all 



any soup stock may be used in place of 
the milk. 

Lima Bean Salad 

Cook one cup of fresh or dried Lima 
beans until tender and the liquid is 
evaporated. Let chill ; mix half a large, 
mild onion to a smooth pulp; add a 
tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, a 
tablespoonful of fine-chopped capers, 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of fine-chopped 
green pepper and olives, half a teaspoon- 
ful or more of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, one-third a cup of olive oil and 
one-fourth a cup of vinegar and pour 
over the chilled beans. Mix all thor- 
oughly and turn upon a chilled serving 
dish. Garnish with slices ^of pickled 
beet and sprigs of parsley. 








GINGERBREAD (See Query No. 2728) 



the liquid possible. Have ready one 
cup, each, of kohl rabi, carrots and string 
beans, cut in half -inch cubes and cooked 
tender. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; 
in it cook half an onion, peeled and 
chopped, until softened somewhat and 
yellowed slightly; add a teaspoonful of 
curry powder, two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and half 
a teaspoonful of paprika and stir until 
blended; let cool a little, then add the 
cocoanut milk and stir until boiling; 
add the vegetables, a teaspoonful of 
sugar and a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
mix thoroughly and serve with roast or 
boiled meats at dinner or luncheon. 
Other ccoked vegetables may be pre- 
pared in the same way and beef broth or 



Creole Rice 

Remove the stems and seeds from two 
red peppers and chop fine; peel a large 
mild onion and chop it fine; chop fine 
one-fourth a pound of lean ham, cooked 
or raw as is convenient. Melt three 
tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, 
add the pepper, onion and ham and stir 
and cook without discoloring the vege- 
tables until the m.oisture is absorbed. 
Add one cup of blanched rice and stir 
and cook about five minutes, then add 
three cups of beef broth or stock or a 
teaspoonful of beef extract dissolved in 
three cups of boiling water and let cook, 
covered, about half an hour; add three 
or four tomatoes, skinned and cut in 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



215 




LEMON QUEENS 



small pieces and a teaspoonful of salt, 
cover and let cook until the grains of 
rice are tender; with two forks stir in 
three tablespoonfuls of butter in little 
bits; let stand five minutes, covered. 
Serve as the hearty dish at luncheon or 
supper. 

Lemon Queens 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of granulated 
sugar, then the well-beaten yolks of four 
eggs, the grated rind of a lemon and two 
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Sift to- 
gether one cup and a fourth of sifted 
pastry flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of soda and beat into the first mixture; 
lastly, beat in the whites of four eggs 
beaten very light. Bake in fourteen 
small cup- cake tins about twenty-five 
minutes. When cold decorate with 

Boiled Frosting 

Melt three-fourths a cup of sugar 
in one-fourth a cup of boiling water; 



wash down the inside of the pan to re- 
move grains of sugar; cover and let boil 
three minutes; uncover and let boil to 
242 degrees F. Pour in a fine stream on 
the white of a large egg, beaten very light. 

Scotch Gingerbread 

Sift together two cups of flour, half a 
cup of granulated sugar, half a teaspoon- 
ful of soda, one teaspoonful of baking 
powder, three-fourths a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of mace or 
grated nutmeg and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt; add half a cup of small, 
seeded raisins, half a cup of sliced 
stem-ginger (crystallized or preserved) 
and one-fourth a cup of blanched al- 
monds, chopped very fine. Heat half a 
cup, each, of molasses and butter (or 
other shortening) to the boiling point 
and stir into the dry ingredients. Lastly, 
beat in two eggs beaten light without 
separating. Bake in a loaf one hour or 
in a sheet half an hour. The oven should 
be of moderate heat. 




WHITE CAKE, MARSHMALLOW FROSTING, SPRINKLED WITH CHOPPED PISTACHIO NUTS 

(GREEN) 



216 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Hermits (Miss Latham) 

Soak one cup of seedless raisins over 
night, then drain. Beat half a cup of 
butter to a cream and gradually beat in 
one cup of brown sugar; add one tea- 
spoonful of milk, one tablespoonful of 
molasses, two' eggs beaten light, the 
raisins and lastly, two cups of flour, half 
a teaspoonful of cinnamon, half a tea- 
spoonful of mace and two and one half 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted to- 
gether. Add more flour if needed to 
make a dough that may be dropped 
from a spoon and will not spread too 
much in baking. Bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Vassar's Delight 

Soak one-fourth a pound of prunes 
over-night in cold water, cook until tender 
and cut the flesh in small pieces from 
the stones, discarding the stones; add 
cocoanut to equal half the measure of 
the prunes; if convenient add a little 
cocoanut milk, and one or two table- 
spoonfuls of orange marmalade. When 
boiling stir in three-fourths a cup of 
sugar and set into hot water. Beat two 
tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream; 
beat in two egg-yolks, one after the 
other, and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt and stir and cook in the hot prune 
mixture until the egg is set. Have ready 
pufE or flaky pastry baked over small 
inverted tins. Fill the pastry with the 
prune mixture. Beat the whites of two 
eggs very light, then gradually beat in 
four (level) tablespoonfuls of granulated 



sugar and pipe the meringue above the 
filling in the cases, dredge with granu- 
lated sugar and let bake from ten to 
fifteen minutes in a very moderate oven. 
Sprinkle with browned cocoanut shreds 
or chopped almonds (browned). Serve 
hot or cold. 

Steamed Date Pudding 

Sift together one cup of whole wheat 
flour, half a cup of white flour, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of 
soda and one half a teaspoonful of mace. 
Beat one egg; add half a cup of mo- 
lasses, half a cup of milk, four table- 
spoonfuls of melted shortening and a 
cup of dates stoned and cut in pieces. 
Mix all together thoroughly and turn 
into a buttered mold. Steam two and 
one-half hours. Serve hot with 

Miss Wilbur's Hard Sauce 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup and a fourth 
of sifted brown sugar; when very light 
and creamy beat in two tablespoonfuls 
of cream, drop by drop, and, lastly, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract and half 
a teaspoonful of lemon extract. For 
variety, beat in one-fourth a cup of 
sifted date-pulp and half a teaspoonful 
of ground ginger. 

Choice Popovers 

Break three eggs into a bowl; add 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup, 
each, of milk and sifted flour. Beat 
until smooth with a Dover egg beater. 
Have ready a hot iron muffin pan; but- 




VASSAR'S DELIGHT 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



ter it thoroughly, fill the cups to two- 
thirds their height with the mixture. 
Set into a hot oven. Bake about 
thirty-five minutes, decreasing the heat 
after the popovers are well puffed. 

Sally-Lunn Muffins 

Mix a cake of compressed yeast in half 
a cup of lukewarm water, then add to two 
cups of scalded and cooled milk; stir in 
bread flour for a batter, about three cups ; 
beat very thoroughly five or six minutes, 
then cover and set aside out of draughts 
until very light and bubbly; add two 
well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one-third a cup of melted shortening, 
one-third a cup of sugar and flour enough 
for a soft dough ; a dough that is not soft 
enough to pour nor stiff enough to knead. 
Let stand covered until doubled in bulk. 
With buttered fingers pull off pieces of 
the dough of the same size and work 
them in the fingers into rounds. Have 
well-buttered muffin rings on a board 
dredged with flour ; press a round of the 
dough into each, cover and let stand to 
become light ; lift dough and ring with a 
spatula to a hot well-oiled griddle; let 
bake over moderate and uniform heat 
until browned on one side; lift with the 
spatula and turn ring and muffin to 
brown the other side. When baked, 
split, toast, spread with butter and serve 
at once. These are suitable for luncheon, 
supper or afternoon tea. 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Soften one cake of compressed yeast 
in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water; 
add one cup of scalded and cooled milk 
and about one cup and a half of bread 
flour and beat all together until smooth. 
Cover and set out of draughts to become 
light. Add one-fourth a cup, each, of 
melted shortening and sugar, two egg- 
yolks, beaten light, one teaspoonful of 
salt, grated rind of one lemon and bread 
flour for a dough. (About three cups of 



flour will be needed). Knead un 
smooth and elastic. Cover close and se 
aside to become doubled in bulk. Turn 
upside down on a board, roll into a 
rectangular sheet, brush over with 
melted butter, dredge with one or two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful 
of cinnamon, then sprinkle with half a 
cup of currants and roll as a jelly roll. 
Cut into pieces about an inch and a 
quarter long. The dough will make 
about twenty pieces. Cream one-fourth 
a cup of shortening; beat in one-fourth 
a cup of brown sugar and spread the 
mixture on the inside of a cast iron frying 
pan of suitable size. Let stand until 
doubled in bulk. Bake about half an 
hour. The sugar and butter should 
glaze the bottom of the buns. Serve, 
turned upside down, glazed side up. 

Chicken and Ham Turnovers 

Chop fine, cold cooked chicken and 
ham, using two-thirds or three-fourths 
chicken to one-fourth or one-third ham. 
For a cup and one-fourth of meat, pre- 
pare a cup of sauce (use two tablespoon- 
fuls, each, butter and flour, one-fourth 
teaspoonful, each, salt and pepper and 
one cup liquid; the liquid may be chicken 
broth, or chicken broth and cream or 
tomato puree), season with a teaspoonful 
of tomato catsup and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and 
stir in the meat. Prepare the recipe for 
"buttercup biscuit" or a rich biscuit 
dough in which the yolk of an egg is 
used. Roll the dough quite thin, less 
than half an inch, and cut out in rounds 
about flve inches in diameter; put a 
spoonful of the meat preparation on one 
side of each round, brush the edge with 
water and fold the other side of the 
dough over the meat, press the edges 
together, brush the top with egg yolk, 
milk or shortening, let bake about twenty 
minutes. Serve with or without sauce 
as the hearty dish for luncheon or supper. 



Balanced Menus for Week in October 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Balls 

Crumbed-and-Broiled Tomatoes 

Golden Cream Muffins 

Sliced Peaches Toast Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken Soup 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Breton Style 

Spiced Crabapple Jelly 

Sliced Tomatoes and Romaine, French 

Dressing 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) Princess Pudding 

Moist Gold Cake Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Deviled Rabbit 

Heart Stalks of Celery 

Cake or Anola Wafers Grape Juice 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Whole Milk 

Creamed Celery on Toast, Poached Eggs 

Doughnuts 

Orange-and- Pineapple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cheese Fondu 

Garden Cress and Lettuce, French Dressing 

Sally Lunn Muffins, Toasted and Buttered 

Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 

Orange Cake 

Dinner 
Halibut Baked in Tomato Sauce 
Potatoes Scalloped with Peppers 
Boiled Chard, Buttered 
Cranberry Pie Cheese 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Baked Apples, Thin Cream 


Grapes 




Parsley Omelet 


Broiled Ham 




Crumb Bread, Toasted 


Potatoes Hashed in Milk 




Yeast Rolls, Toasted Coffee Cocoa 


Fried Apples Dry Toast 




Luncheon 


Delicate Muffins 
Coffee Cocoa 




Fried Sardines 
Baked Beets, Buttered 


Luncheon 


Crumb Bread and Butter 


Cream of Celery Soup 


Apple Dumpling, Hard Sauce 


Mayonnaise of Halibut and Lettuce 


Tea 


Baking Powder Biscuit 




Dinner 


Delmonico Pudding, with Peaches 


Mock Bisque Soup 


Dinner 




Cold Roast Leg of Lamb Mashed Potatoes 


Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked 




Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 


Stewed Tomatoes 




Celery Hearts 


Baked Sweet Potatoes 




Chocolate Bavarian Cream 


Blackberry Sponge, Cream and Sugar 




Vanilla Wafers 


(Canned Berries and Bread) 




Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 


Creamed Codfish 




Corned Beef Hash, Eggs Cooked in Shell 


Baked Potatoes 




Pickled Beets 


Breaded Tomatoes, Broiled or Baked 




Cream Toast 


Crumb Bread and Butter 




Coffee Cocoa 


Coffee Cocoa 




Luncheon 


Luncheon 




Lamb-and- Tomato Soup 


Onions Stuffed with Nuts, Baked, 


^ 

^ 


Cheese Ramekins 


Cream Sauce 




Romaine, French Dressing 


Graham Bread and Butter 


1 


Apple Pie 


Steamed Date Pudding, 


Dinner 


Miss Wilbur's Hard Sauce 




Cottage Pie (left over lamb) 


Dinner 




Curried Vegetables 


Fresh Fish Chowder 




Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 


Olives Pickles" Crackers 




Graham Bread and Butter 


Frozen Apricots 




Baked Tapioca Custard Pudding 


Toasted Bread Sticks 




Vanilla Sauce 


Cream Cheese 





Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Eggs Shirred with Crumbs 

and Tomato Sauce 

Spider Cornea ke 

French Bread, Toasted 

Stewed Prunes Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Baked Beans, New York 

Style 

Toasted Tomato Sandwich 

(mayonnaise) 

Tea 

Grapes 

218 



Dinner 

Round Steak in Casserole 

Endive, French Dressing 

Boston Brown Bread, Butter 

Squash Pie 

Tea 



October Breakfasts for Young School Children 

** The removal of the predisposition to disease is the most thorough-going way of making all infectious 
diseases inpossible^ — HUEPPE. 



I 

Corn Puffs, Whole Milk 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Baked Apples 

Milk 

II 

Oatmeal, Whole Milk 

French Omelet 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Spider Cornea ke Apple Sauce 

Milk 

III 

Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk 

N. B. C. Zwieback 

Spider Corncake, reheated 

(Each) One Slice Bacon Orange Marmalade 

Cocoa 



IV 

Puffed Wheat, Whole Milk 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Baked Bananas 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Milk 



Cream of Wheat, Whole Milk 
Eggs Poached in Milk 
Graham Bread, Toasted 
Stewed Crabapples 
Cocoa 

VI 

Oatmeal, Whole Milk 

Scrambled Eggs 
German Coffee Cake 
Baked Sweet Apples (reheated) 
Milk 



October Breakfasts for Men Commuters 



I 

Baked Apples, Thin Cream 

Broiled Bacon Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

Breakfast Corn Cake (reheated) 

Coffee Cake (reheated) Coffee 

II 

Grapes 
Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Grilled Sweet Potatoes 

French Bread, Toasted 
Golden Cream Muffins Coffee 

III 

Corn Puffs, Whole Milk 

Baked Apples 

Frizzled Dried Beef 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Rye Meal Muffins 

Toast Coffee 



Toast 



IV 

Scrambled Eggs 
Broiled Tomatoes 
Cornmeal Muffins 

Marmalade Coffee 

V 



Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Baked Bananas 

Boston Brown Bread Sliced and Reheated 

Dry Toast Coffee 

yi 

Fresh Fish, Broiled 
French Fried Potatoes 

Toast 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Sliced Peaches 

Coffee 



Bridge Luncheons (Buffet Service) 



Chicken Salad in Shells 

Lady Finger Rolls 
Sliced Tomato Sandwiches 
Hot Baba, Apricot or Rum Sauce 

H 



Tea 



III 

. Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Lettuce and Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Parker House Rolls 

Grape Juice, Frappe 



Chaudfroid of Baked Ham 

Sliced Tomatoes and Endive, 

Thousand Island Salad Dressing 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Peach Sherbet Almond Bars 

V 
Brioche Buns 
Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

219 



IV 

Chaudfroid of Chicken Salad in Shells 

Quick Yeast Rolls 

Olives Salted Nuts 

Grapejuice Parfait 

Sponge Cake 



Salted Nuts 



Apostles of the New 

By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



THE most treasured dish in my 
china-closet is a piece of ex- 
quisite craftsmanship given to 
me last year by a beloved artist, a woman 
who, at the age of eighty-one years, 
designed, painted, and fired it in her 
own kiln. It never graces my table but, 
like the Wonderful Pitcher of childhood 
lore, I am able to draw from it far more 
than its original dontents. To me it is 
a magic dish, full of the charming 
personality of its creator. Beside it I 
place the work of the ceramic expert of 
twenty, ten and five years ago. Each 
reflects a different mode of treatment, 
and perpetuates the style and design of 
its respective moment. But this latest 
acquisition spells progress. And that is 
exactly what the woman who made it has 
done. Always she has been an advanc- 
ing spirit, — an Apostle of the New. At 
this stage of life's journey, her eighty- 
two-year-old heart and head are as 
keenly alive to present day doings as 
they were twenty-five years ago. Sun- 
day evening finds her an enthusiastic 
listener to a series of oratorios now in 
progress in her home city, where, oc- 
casionally, friends still share the rare 
entertainment of a tea in her attractive 
studio. Consciously or unconsciously, 
I believe this woman has captured the 
prime factors of success. Early in life 
she learned to find supreme enjoyment 
in daily work, and to keep the gift of 
living in a state of flux. And one has 
only to make a casual observance of 
elderly friends to ascertain how rare 
this is. How many people of seventy 
years of age can be found that have not 



dammed up a few incidents of the past 
where all current events are lightly 
drowned? How many, out of the hard 
and set notions of middle-age, have not 
made an impregnable bulwark against 
all modern ideas and improvements? 
How few, indeed, have mastered the 
subtle art of holding their youth by 
keeping the wonder of life fresh with the 
joys of new discoveries? Or in the words 
of good, old Bob Burdette have learned 
to ''keep sweet and keep moving?" 

The other day in one of the leading 
magazines appeared a salient bit of 
testimony from a woman who cajididly 
admits that she will never see her 
seventy-fifth birthday again, but adding, 
pertinently, "no one who knows me dares 
to call me. an old lady." And then, she 
proceeds to give the desired recipe for 
attaining such praiseworthy results. To 
the tandem-like rejuvenators of regular 
work and the happy trait of enjoying 
life as one goes along she ascribes much. 
But, in her case, these have been further 
supplemented by the daily practice of 
simple gymnastic exercises that have 
aided in keeping her in physical trim. 
These she has practiced daily for over a 
quarter of a century, and as a result finds 
herself in fine fettle "to take in concerts 
and theaters, with the accompanying 
late hours, and not be a wreck the next 
day." But the most illuminating part 
of this instructive talk was revealed in 
the confession that she learned these 
exercises, after her fiftieth year, from a 
public speaker who convinced her of 
their merit. All of which proves that 
one of the most significant principles of 



220 



APOSTLES OF THE NEW 



221 



life is the receptive attitude of mind, 
the abiUty to accept and appropriate 
a new idea. For, without question, there 
are quite as many people suffering from 
hardening of the mind as of hardening 
of the arteries. And, if the truth were 
known, in a surprising large num.ber of 
cases the form^er is the forerunner of the 
latter. 

Nowhere was this brought home to 
me more forcibly than a few years ago 
when, for a brief interval, I journeyed 
through certain sections of the Blue 
Ridge mountains, and suddenly but 
poignantly sensed the aging and warping 
effect of illiteracy on the lives of poor 
mountaineer women. Here were women 
in the prime of life, gnarled and old and 
worthless, practically relegated to the 
junk heap from further endeavor, be- 
cause broken in body through excessive 
child-bearing and drudgery in fields and 
lumber camps. 

But all this is now being remedied by 
the Apostles of the New, the educators 
with true missionary spirit. Here and 
there throughout these isolated regions 
are springing up the famous "Moonlight 
Schools." And into the form.er stolid 
faces of these humble m.ountain people is 
gradually creeping the light of a vision. 
It is gratifying to record that in no 
previous year has North Carolina m^ade 
such rapid strides toward wiping out 
illiteracy as in the twelve months just 
past. This also is the pleasing history 
of Kentucky's advancement, brought so 
favorably into the light through the 
evangelic work of J. A. Burns, president 
of Oneida Institute of Kentucky, who 
is introducing revolutionary methods 
among the untaught and lawless of the 
Cumberlands. And what greater work 
may there be than that which sows new 
hope in the heart of the young and adds 
usefulness to old age? 

Indeed, this problem of how to extend 
the period of usefulness so that its high- 
est worth may be felt in advanced years 
is, or should be, one of national concern. 
On every side we may see the lack of 



wisdom in the prematurely wornout 
body. So far, in rallying to meet the 
situation, we are beginning to pass laws 
to limit hours of labor and protect child- 
hood. These measures should not only 
build for the conservation of bodily 
strength, but encourage telling results 
in mental development. Moreover, let 
us hope that the full reward of such 
policies may be totaled where it is most 
needed — in the enrichment of age. 

Still, we must admit that responsibil- 
ity in this matter does not rest entirely 
on society. It is up to us as individuals 
to do our share in keeping the mind 
alert, if we are to be even followers of 
enterprising ideals. 

Here in New England, it is a common 
occurrence to hear some person of anti- 
quated notions characterized as an "old 
fogy." In fact, it is such a familiar type 
that few of us stop to realize that this 
representative of the past is simply a 
victim of his own mental edict. Some- 
where, back in the game of life, came the 
call: "Still pond, no more moving." 
And he hasn't budged a peg since. Old 
fogyism, be it known, is nothing more 
nor less than clamping the mind to cer- 
tain habits of thought, and refusing to 
investigate or adopt any of the progres- 
sive measures of modernity. It is a 
settled course of action, governed by 
ignorance, old-fashioned opinions, plus 
donkey ism. And it is quite as prevalent 
among the "female of the species" as 
those of masculine persuasion. In fact, 
all of us who feel at middle-age that "we 
have the number" of everything worth- 
while and are taking sort of a mental 
rest-cure, while we harvest a good crop 
of disapproving wrinkles, are plainly in 
danger of drifting into "fogydom." 

The old housekeeper who will have 
none of the new housekeeping, the old 
cook who looks askance at new methods, 
the old homemaker who deliberately 
eschews the modern point of view are 
all side-tracking their value as individ- 
uals. F lestic science, like John 
Brown's ; marching on. 



222 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



It is even marching into the women's 
prisons and laying a redeeming hand on 
the unfortunate inmates. 

Miss Grace Fuller, superintendent of 
women at an Illinois penitentiary, an- 
other whole-souled Apostle of the New, 
has worked nothing short of a miracle 
by introducing up-to-date domestic 
science courses for the inmates of that 
institution. They have a well-equipped 
classroom where Miss Fuller, who is the 
teacher of cookery, supervises the cook- 
ing for both the matrons' dining-room 
and for the inmates. A trained nurse 
connected with the prison instructs in 
sewing, the prisoners taking as whole- 
some interest in the making of their 
clothes as in preparing all their own food. 
This mode of precedure has been instru- 
mental in lifting Joliet to the rank of a 
model prison, and succeeded in creating 
a spirit of helpfulness among its women 
that is unprecedented. 

Such are a few of the telltale straws 



that show how the winds of progress are 
blowing. Some one may jocularly re- 
mark that these all come from the South 
and West. Let me answer with a 
question. Have you read Dr. Anna 
Howard Shaw's book, "The Story of a 
Pioneer?" In it you will glimpse the 
glorious spirit of some of our Eastern 
women, to say nothing of the illuminat- 
ing message of a life-story such as Dr. 
Shaw's. The recital of it is one of heart- 
gripping interest. From the early strug- 
gling, log-cabin days in the Michigan 
forest, on through poverty-shadowed 
college days to the ministry, this op- 
timistic little woman marches forward, 
winning hard-earned achievement after 
achievement. Here, indeed, is an illus- 
trious example of the Apostle of the New, 
and one whose influence will carry far 
into the future. For, like all remarkable 
people who have done worthwhile things, 
she has glorified the present and made 
use of it. 



Preserving Eggs 

By George E. Walsh 



SEVENTY-FIVE per cent of the 
eggs that find their way into our 
kitchens in the winter months are 
cold-storage, and the various State laws 
that compel dealers to label eggs thus pre- 
served with the words "storage", "refri- 
gerated" or "preserved", have gradually 
accustomed the public to their use. They 
were eaten before just as much as to- 
day, but under the mistaken impression 
that they were fresh or strictly fresh. 
The general recognition of the value of 
cold-storage eggs has thus greatly les- 
sened misbranding, and the consequent 
payment of unduly high prices for them. 
As a matter of economy, the preser- 
vation of eggs for home consumption 
should be encouraged as much as the 
home-preservation of fruits and veg- 



etables in their season of abundance. 
The process is simpler, and the saving 
much greater. For instance, for fresh 
eggs in spring and summer that sell for 
seventeen to twenty-two cents per dozen, 
you pay from thirty to forty-five cents 
per dozen when they come out of the cold 
storage house. The price depends upon 
their quality and the general abundance 
of eggs, both fresh and in storage. 

The method of preserving fresh eggs 
in the summer for the winter season does 
not require any cold-storage plant, nor 
any expensive equipments. A few stone 
jars or crocks holding about four gallons, 
and an investment of perhaps a dollar in 
sodium silicate or water glass, as it is 
more commonly called, are all the prep- 
aration needed. Water glass practically 



PRESERVING EGGS 



223 



seals up the pores in the egg shells, keep- 
ing outside air from entering, and that is 
all that is needed. Water glass costs 
about forty cents a pound, and that will 
be sufficient to make ten gallons of the 
preserving solution. To every nine 
parts of water add one of water glass, and 
the ten per cent solution is ready to pour 
into the crock filled with eggs. Before 
doing this the crock should be thoroughly 
scalded and cleaned, and then the water 
should be boiled and cooled off before 
adding the water glass. 

Many who have tried water glass sol- 
ution for keeping eggs have failed or had 
indifferent success because of the quality 
of eggs used in the first place. An egg 
that isn't strictly fresh cannot come out- 
of the preserving fluid fresh. Only the 
uncontaminated eggs can be kept well, 
and infertile eggs are better for this pur- 
pose than the fertile ones. The latter 
are more apt to spoil on your hands. 

One should not trust to the word of a 
dealer, not even the farmer or egg-pro- 
ducer, that his eggs are strictly fresh. 
They may not be more than a week old, 
and yet be stale. Exposure to heat in 
summer will make an egg a week old 
staler than one laid in winter and kept 
two weeks. Whether you buy your eggs 
for preserving for winter use or raise 
them yourself, every one should be tested 
or candled before it is dropped in the 
solution. This is so simple an operation 
that any one can test eggs at the rate of 
a dozen a minute. Take a cardboard or 
wooden box, and cut a hole through it 
half an inch in diameter. Place it in a 
dark room, and put a candle behind it. 
Then hold each egg up to the front of the 
hole, and look through it at the candle 
light. You can readily detect any spots, 
blood strings or other signs of staleness. 
Those that look perfectly clear should be 
dropped in the water glass solution, and 
all that show spots or strings should be 
used for cooking at once. 

One other point that should be ob- 
served. Eggs laid away in water glass 
with the small end down will keep better 



than those stood on the big end or laid on 
their sides. Another point is, never 
wash the shell of the egg before preserv- 
ing it, and yet you must not have dirty 
eggs. These should be discarded, and 
used for immediate cooking purposes. 
Only hard, smooth-shelled eggs should be 
selected. Thin, brittle-shelled eggs are 
liable to crack, and their contents mixing 
with the preserving solution contaminate 
it and in time spoil all the other eggs. 
One cracked egg in a jar may thus spoil 
the whole batch. Great care must be 
exercised, as a consequence, in laying 
them in the crock carefully to avoid 
cracking. 

A four gallon crock, costing about 
seventy-five cents, will hold about ten 
dozen eggs. Smaller sizes or a number 
of different sized crocks can be used so 
the home supply is always ready for use 
without disturbing the rest. The crocks 
should be stored away in a cool, dry, 
dark room, with covers tightly put on top 
to prevent evaporation of the solution. 
A certain amount of evaporation will go 
on, however, in spite of the tight cover, 
and to guard against failure the liquid 
may have to be renewed a little once 
every two or three months. The eggs 
must be kept completely covered with 
the liquid at all times. If they are ex- 
posed to the air, they will quickly absorb 
it, and decay begin. In using them, one 
jar at a time should be tapped until all 
the eggs are used up before another is 
opened. 

Eggs packed away in a ten per cent 
water-glass solution will keep sweet and 
fresh from nine months to a year. The 
housewife should preserve in spring and 
summer only just enough to supply the 
table until the following season. None 
should be carried over. The crocks 
should then be cleaned and aired out for 
the new season's supply. When re- 
moved from the solution the eggs should 
be used within a day or two. It is better 
not to remove them until actually 
needed. 

The dislike for anything except strictly 



224 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



fresh eggs still makes many people refuse 
to serve storage eggs on the table, but 
they do use them for cooking purposes. 
It is true that many of the eggs preserved 
in water glass have a muddy appearance, 
and the albumen is slightly more watery 
and the yolks will not stand up so well as 
in fresh eggs. But this does not injure 
their quality. However, when used for 
cooking, these defects will not be no- 
ticed. You can pay fancy prices in 
winter for eggs served on the table, and 
still save a great deal by using preserved 
eggs for all cooking. One can save 
easily ten cents a dozen or more by pre- 
serving eggs at home. 

It is not necessary to lay down in the 
solution all your eggS at once, but pre- 
serve a few every time you can buy a lot 
of strictly fresh eggs. You may have 
only a few dozen to begin with, and then 
the others can be put in the same crock 
on top of the others as you gather them, 
adding a little more solution to keep 
them all covered. If you have a reli- 
able farmer who can supply you with 
more fresh eggs in the season of plenty 
than you eat, pack away a few each week 
through the summer until you have the 
full supply needed for winter. 

Remember it does not pay to preserve 
stale eggs, nor cracked or thin-shelled 
ones. Washed eggs are nearly as bad, 
for the water opens the pores and admits 
the water-glass solution to the contents 
inside. If these few points are kept 
within mind, and reasonable care is exer- 
cised in packing them away, there is no 
reason why one should not eat eggs in 
winter that cost only seventeen to twenty- 
two cents a dozen instead of thirty to 
forty-five cents. And your home-pre- 
served storage eggs will in the long run 
prove fresher and sweeter than those you 
purchase in the open market. To a 



certain extent dealers make a practice of 
adding one or two seconds or thirds to 
every dozen good storage eggs, thus 
working off gradually the inferior ones 
they may have on hand. They must 
have a certain amount of these stale eggs, 
for gathering their supply from widely 
separated regions they cannot exercise 
the same scrutiny and selection of good 
eggs as the housewife. They cannot 
afford to destroy such inferior eggs, and 
many of them find their way into the 
general market supply. 

Preserving of fruits and vegetables 
has become one of the most common of 
our household industries, and few who 
can get a good supply of raw material in 
the season of abundance neglect it. Yet 
not one in a hundred attempts to pre- 
serve a supply of eggs. They depend 
upon the uncertainty of the dealers who 
buy up eggs wholesale in spring and 
summer and pack them away in cold- 
storage for winter use. And every 
winter the cry goes up that prices for 
eggs, cold-storage included, are out- 
rageously high. We read, then, of an 
egg-trust, and a corner in eggs, much to 
our indignation. The way to combat 
that is not to wait until the hens are 
taking a vacation, but buy up the eggs 
in the season of plenty, and preserve 
them for future use. If this were more 
widely done, the prices of eggs would be 
better regulated and there would be less 
said and written about egg-trusts. 

The average family uses between four 
and five dozen eggs a week. By saving 
only ten cents a dozen one would save in 
the course of the year enough to buy a 
few extra tons of coal or a new winter 
suit of clothes. Does it pay? Un- 
doubtedly it does, when we consider the 
small amount of work and investment 
required. 



Bread by the Wayside 

By Aubrey Fullerton 



SOME of the quaintest and simplest 
kitchens in all America are in the 
homes of the French Canadian 
inhabitants, and in those kitchens very 
good cooking is done, even to this day, 
according to the methods and tastes of 
long-ago. It matters little to the con- 
tented housewives of habitant-land what 
contrivances and s^^stems are in vogue 
elsewhere; their own ways of doing 
things, and their own domestic equip- 
ments, are still good enough for all but 
the very ambitious and curious-minded 
ones. 

French Canada means more partic- 
ularly the province of Quebec, a large 
proportion of whose population is of 
French blood, tracing back to the first 
European settlers in the upper part of 
America. Certain districts of Quebec 
are still almost entirely peopled by these 
French-speaking folk, who have pre- 
served very carefully and interestingly 
not only the language but the customs 
of their fathers. The housewives, gen- 
erally speaking, have preserved the 
customs of their mothers, to whom a 
model kitchen of today would have been 
past comprehension. 

To see these French Canadian habitant 
hom^es in their truest simplicity and old- 
fashionedness, one must go to some of 
the back-country villages along the 
St. Lawrence River, or, still better, to 
the Gaspe district, where Quebec runs 
out to the Atlantic. Life goes quietly 
there, untroubled by the frills and 
innovations of modern society. The 
people are content with what they have, 
and are disposed rather to pity than 
envy the dwellers in cities, contriving 
wonderfully well to enjoy their own 
more simple homes and companionships. 
For the sake of neighborliness they live 
as close together as possible, and front 



their houses on the highway, where they 
may see the comings and goings of their 
friends. 

One of the popular institutions that 
these country-folk retain from early 
colonial days is the outdoor bake-oven. 
It may still be seen in more or less 
general use throughout rural Quebec, 
despite the fact that stoves and ranges 
are now installed in all the habitant 
homes; for there are ways in which an 
outdoor oven far excels any indoor con- 
trivance, weather and wind permitting. 
It is usually a round-topped structure, 
built of stone or brick from the ground 
up, or with a heavy base of hardwood 
logs. The top is covered with clay or 
lime plaster, and sometimes the whole 
is roofed in with a rude shelter of boards, 
for the comfort of the cook. 

The oven itself is an arched hole 
running through this construction, with 
a floor of smooth, fiat stones or bricks, 
and an iron door. On baking day a 
wood fire is built in, not under, the 
oven, and left to burn until the bricks 
are thoroughly heated. The embers 
are then drawn out, the oven carefully 
cleaned with scraper and broom, and 
the lumps of dough placed directly upon 
the brick floor. It takes experience 
and housewifely ability to judge when 
there is precisely the right amount of 
heat • in such an oven, but a rule in 
habitant cookery is to build a fire big 
enough to over-heat it, and then to let 
it cool till Madame can hold her bare 
arm inside the door while she counts 
twenty. At that temperature a batch 
of bread will bake to a good brown-crust 
consistency without further attention 
except an occasional shifting of the 
loaves with a long wooden shovel. 
Many of the ovens will hold two or 
three dozen loaves, each, and since 



225 



226 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



French Canadian families are prover- 
bially large, bakings of that size are not 
at all exceptional. 

It is rather pleasant to see, as one 
passes along the public highway, the 
blazing fires inside the great brick ovens, 
in process of heating up, or to smell the 
savors of the browning bread. As 
likely as not, too, the cook herself will 
be there, watching over her baking, or 
perhaps putting it in or taking it out, 
or else chatting leisurely with a neighbor. 
When she finally removes the finished 
product, one may be very siu-e that it is 
good, substantial bread that will stand 
the tests of family use. It is apt to be 
a bit solid, but sweet and wholesome, 
with a flavor that no other oven than 
one of brick can impart. 

Habitant kitchens are in keeping with 
their primitive cookery. To be sure, 
new houses with some measure of modern 
convenience are being built from time 
to time, but the typical French Canadian 
dwelling is still simple and quaint as one 
would wish. There is an air of old-time 
leisure about it, and in its kitchen the 
implements of human life are pleasantly 
cluttered, regardless of rule or system. 
To this day the habitant housewife 
spins, and weaves, and knits as her fore- 
mothers did in days of old, and from 



the family workroom at the rear of her 
house are turned out garments of home- 
spun, blankets of thick home-grown 
wool, and home-dyed, home-woven 
carpets of ingenious design and coloring. 
If any women in America are independ- 
ent of the department store, they are the 
French Canadian women of Gaspe and 
thereabouts. 

Some of the habitant housekeepers 
have a floor-scrubbing method that has 
much to commend it. They inherited 
it as one of many domestic traditions, 
and though not so generally made use 
of as the outdoor baking it is quite as 
time-honored and even more simple in 
theory. Instead of scrubbing-brushes, 
use spruce branches — that is the recipe. 
Spread the suds as you please, and 
swash them about with the green boughs, 
which may be replaced with fresh ones 
when they become worn and limp. 
The result is not only cleanliness but 
fragrance, a spicy, woodsy smell that 
lingers for several days and makes even 
a musty kitchen strangely sweet. 
Perhaps it would not fit so well into 
housekeeping conditions outside of 
habitant-land, but there this old- 
fashioned way of cleansing a floor seems 
to correspond with everything else, and 
is in common use. 



WE have no book in which is re- 
corded the names of the "well 
born." 

We have no fixed standards of quality 
in human stock. 

But a new day is dawning. Eugenics 
will create a new and improved human 
race. 

"Registered" men and women, a new 
aristocracy — an aristocracy of health 
and biologic fitness will soon challenge 
the admiration of the world and become 
the founders of the new race of man. 

J. H. Kellogg, M. D. 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIE^SS' 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Lighting the Dining Room 

WE have gone through various 
stages of lighting the dining- 
room. Some of us can remem- 
ber when the last word in table illumina- 
tion was the hanging lamp with the flower, 
bird, or snow-scene decorated shade and 
a row of glass prisms hanging from a 
brass band or frame that held it. With 
the more common use of gas and electric- 
ity, chandeliers, and electroliers of vary- 
ing types of omateness successively held 
sway. These gradually grew into the 
mammoth dome, which was hung con- 
siderably lower than the chandelier and 
gave a softened light that shone through 
art glass of colors supposed to harmonize 
with the decorations of the room. Some 
of these domes were barbaric, while 
others were very elaborate and expen- 
sive, embodying cut glass, bronze, and 
other artistic decorative features har- 
moniously blended in their make-up. 
It will be a long time before the dome 
will entirely disappear from view, for if 
chosen in good taste it added a note of 
elegance and was a striking piece of 
furniture in the dining-room. 

The objection to the dome is that it 
concentrates the light too strongly upon 
the table beneath, throwing anything 
out of its immediate range into sharp, 
contrasting shadows. Youth and beauty 
are made more beautiful and age is in- 
clined to take on added years. Besides 
this, the corners of the room are left quite 
dark, unless other lights are turned on 
and these have a tendency to detract from 
the beauty of the center illumination. 



To meet these objections, a new light- 
ing system was finally devised on quite 
the opposite principle to that of the 
dome. In fact, it often happens that the 
last step of mechanical perfection is 
directly opposite in principle to the 
accepted mode, showing that the human 
mind is exceedingly apt to begin at the 
point nearest and work back gradually 
to the logical beginning. In the Indirect 
Lighting System the light is shaded from 
beneath and carries its lighting fixtures 
on the upper side of the inverted dome. 
This inverted portion is transparent and 
lacking in the resplendence of color that 
the dome boasts. The light shines softly 
through so that all seated at the table 
are revealed at their best and the cor- 
ners of the room are pleasantly bright 
with the same soft glow. This light 
approximates daylight more nearly 
than any of the previous types of 
fixtures. 

There is something quaintly charming 
about lighting a dining-room with can- 
dles. In themselves they add a touch 
of delightful hospitality difficult for 
modern lighting to approach. Slender 
candle sticks and more elaborate candel- 
abra, with their glimmering points of 
softened shade or open lights, are 
especially pleasing. It often pleases the 
evening hostess to usher her guests to a 
dining-room that is lighted only with 
candles placed about in sufficient pro- 
fusion to answer the purpose nicely. 
Later other lights are turned on and the 
candles are removed at the first indica- 
tion of dripping or smoking. 

The lighting of the dining-room is an 



227 



228 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



important matter as its success adds so 
much to the pleasure of all refreshment 
partaken of by artificial light. What- 
ever the style of lighting fixtures, they 
should be immaculately cared for. Even 
in homes that have careful housewives 
at the head, dusty fixtures are some- 
times seen, perhaps because they are 
hard to reach. All the parts should be 
beautifully clean at all times. Some- 
tiraes a small expense in the way of 
relacquering or re-finishing some part will 
add greatly to the beauty of the whole. 
In homes where old-fashioned fixtures 
harmonize with the type of architecture 
and furnishings, it is quite possible to 
have these wired for electricity at small 
expense. The skilful lighting of the 
dining-room adds greatly to the homey 
enjoyment of that room, which is a 
matter not to be overlooked, for the 
dining-room is used at least three times 
a day three hundred and sixty-five days 
in the year and contributes much to the 
health, harmony, and general efficiency 
of the members of the family, so let us 
obey intelligently the command "Let 
there be light!" D. W. 

* * * 

Keeping Eggs 

THE following is a very simple way 
of keeping eggs through the winter 
that is used by many "old fash- 
ioned" people. An elderly lady said a 
short time ago that in all her thirty years 
experience in keeping eggs, and she puts 
down at least fifteen dozen in this way, 
not more than three or four go bad each 
year. 

First, have arranged in the cellar a 
shelf in which holes are bored so as to 
hold t'he eggs upright when set on the 
small ends. Take perfectly fresh eggs 
and immerse them in melted suet so 
that every egg is thinly coated. Do not 
keep them in the suet so long that they 
will have a thick, greasy, uneven coating, 
nor in suet that is so hot that they will 
cook. If the eggs are then set on end 
in the holes of the shelf and not handled 



so as to break the coating, they will keep 
through the winter in the best of shape. 
It might be added that, if rats are 
likely to come into the cellar, a good 
protection to the shelf is a cage-like 
arrangement of wire mosquito netting 
with the top hinged so that the eggs 
may be taken out without disturbing 
what you do not wish to use. If the 
door be in the front center, your sleeve 
might remove enough of the suet cover- 
ing to spoil the eggs. B. M. P. 

* * * 

Of Sweet Herbs 

HAVE you ever, in the sunny days 
of autumn, stepped into your 
garden and gathered sweet herbs ? 

Have you gathered thyme and mar- 
joram in generous bunches, mint and 
parsley by the armful, 

Green, fresh, aromatic and persuasive, 

Each leaf full of necessary moisture 
sucked from the soil. 

Each leaf a storehouse for wonderful 
essences, manufactured in sun and rain? 

Have you dried these garnered 
branches slowly and carefully, that the 
flavor be kept for the long mnter? 

Have you tied up little bags of laven- 
der flowers to rest with your linen? 

Have you cut a spray of lemon ver- 
bena and wrapped it with your clothing ? 

If you have never done these things. 

If you have never bruised these 
scented leaves between living fingers. 

Then you have missed one of th^ 
brightest days among the sunny days 
of autumn. M. O. B. 

* * * 

Helpful Hints 

1. To keep steak tender, do not salt 
it until it is ready to be placed upon the 
platter for serving. ■ 

2. Add a little sugar to peas and corn 
(both new and canned) ; it will improve 
flavor. 

3. In creaming butter and sugar for 
a cake, if a little cold water is added it 
will cream twice as quickly. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



229 



4. When dough for a cake is being 
placed into the tins for baking, push the 
dough up well into the corners of the 
tin so the cake will be even after it is 
baked. G. W. G. 

* * * 

Afternoon Tea Not a New Fashion 
in America 

IT is sometimes said that afternoon 
tea is a custom copied from England 
and that it is a recent one. Would it 
not be truer to say that it is an old- 
time custom that lapsed for a genera- 
tion? 

An old lady used to tell the writer, 
when she was a child, many stories of- 
by-gone years and people of a country 
town about thirty miles from Boston. 

Among other things described as 
customary in the early part of the 
nineteenth century was the afternoon 
tea. She told how the village doctor's 
wife, "Mrs. Dr. B," — funny way of 
designating the wife of a professional 
man, — used to drive over to see her 
mother and take tea. She arrived in a 
chaise with a family horse that could be 
trusted to hold up the thills borne down 
by a number of children tucked in about 
her feet. These children, without whom 
she could not have left home, were 
turned loose to romp with other children 
while the two mothers sat down for a 
long talk, — principall;^' about church and 
neighborhood news. Presently, "Mrs. 
Dr. B." would say, "Now Sister Patty, 
let's have a snapping dish of tea." 

The best china was set out, and bread 
and butter or some nice jumbles and 
jam; and soon the "snapping cup of tea," 
oft repeated, made the tongues even 
more active, until the visit became pro- 
longed. Finally, the thought of ap- 
proaching sunset, and a family meal 
awaiting at the village two miles away 
over the hills, would make "Mrs. Dr. B." 
call her romping brood to the old chaise. 
Then stowing away the children, with 
added farewells and words called back 
about some recipe, or a reminder about 



returning the visit soon and having tea, 
the friends parted. 

In houses a generation or two older 
than that, built in Colonial times, the 
corner cupboard, or "beau-fat," as such 
were called in incorrect French, are to 
be seen. These were filled with the 
best china and the precious tea-caddy; 
for tea then meant far more than we 
often realize, unless we recall its over- 
throw in Boston Harbor because of 
excessive taxation. J- D- C. 



Tea 

In life there's many a pleasure, 
A bliss for every bane, 
Ay, measure take for measure, 
There's more of joy than rain. 
In thinking, yes, and drinking 
Great solace there may be; 

And sweeter draught 

Was never quaft 
Than just a cup of Tea. 

Bards sing Amontillado, 
And this a regal wine, 
A touch of Eldorado 
Thrills through the lordly vine. 
Oporto and Chianti — 
In Champagne, too, there's glee; 
But oh, next day — 
Take it away! 
Bring me a pot of Tea. 

Whenever I am tristful 
And everything goes wrong; 
Or if just merely wistful, 
For vanished days I long, 
I seek for no magician, 
I have to pay no fee 

For all comes back 

On memory's track 
Across a cup of Tea. 

Decembertide or Maytime 

Neath murky skies or clear. 

At evensong, in daytime 

At any time of year. 

When gay, it makes me gayer, 

If sad it makes me see 
Hope's rainbow hue, 
That heavenly brew 
A fragrant cup of Tea. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe* 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
lo Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave^ Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2725. — "Recipe for a rich Filling 
for Cream Puffs." 

Filling for Cream Puffs 

1 pint hot milk 2 eggs or four yolks 

I cup of flour I cup sugar 

I cup sugar | teaspoonful vanilla 
i teaspoonful salt 

Mix or sift together the flour, salt, and 
half-cup of sugar; dilute with the hot 
milk, then cook and stir over hot water 
until the mixture thickens, then cook, 
stirring occasionally, for fifteen minutes ; 
beat the eggs, add the rest of the sugar 
and stir into the hot mixture; stir until 
the eggs look cooked, then cool and 
flavor. One-fourth a cup of clear black 
coffee may be substituted for the same 
quantity of milk, or an ounce of choc- 
olate, cooked with two tablespoonfuls, 
each, of sugar and water, may be added 
to the milk. 



Query No. 2726. — "Kindly give explicit 
directions for|BroIlIng a Steak over a coal range." 

Broiling a Steak 

Steaks should be cut from an inch to 
an inch and a half thick. From five to 
eight minutes' cooking is needed for the 
first, and eight to ten minutes for the 
latter. When properly broiled the steak 
is puffy from the expansion of the 
collagen and the moisture imprisoned 
within; it is well browned to the depth 
of one-eighth of an inch, juicy and 
uniformly red in appearance within. 
If the length of cooking and the general 
appearance of the steak do not indicate 



its condition to satisfaction, place the 
broiler over a dripping-pan and make a 
small clean cut at one end. This will 
indicate its condition conclusively. 
When done, remove to the serving-dish, 
which should be warm; sprinkle with 
salt, (omit pepper, unless without doubt 
it be agreeable to all), spread with cold 
maitre d 'hotel butter — the heat of the 
steak should melt the butter — or with 
hot Bernaise sauce. Mushroom and 
tomato sauce are both admissable. 
Garnish with slices of lemon, with water- 
cress, pepper-grass, or parsley. Serve 
with potatoes in some form. French 
fried, Saratoga, mashed, baked (white 
or sweet), and escalloped potatoes, are 
all in favor with steak. 

To Broil a Steak 

Wipe, trim off superfluous fat and 
flank end if present, pat into shape; 
heat the broiler very hot, — a heavy 
wire double-broiler is the most conven- 
ient — rub it over with a bit of the fat 
and put in the meat with the ridge of fat 
towards the handle of the broiler, to 
insure the basting of the meat during 
cooking. At first, hold the broiler close 
to the clear coals, count ten and turn; 
count ten again and turn; repeat until 
the meat has been cooking one minute, 
then, the juices being imprisoned by the 
strong heat^remove to a greater distance 
from the fire, and continue cooking and 
turning the rneat every ten seconds, to 
insure slow and even cooking. Have the 



230 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



231 



dampers in the range open as in building 
the fire, to carry the smoke from the fat 
up the chimney. 

Query No. 2727. — "Recipe for a Frozen 
Fruit Salad to serve about twenty-five people." 

Frozen Fruit Salad 



1 can pineapple 
1 can white cherries 
1 can pears 
1 can peaches 



2 oranges 

Juice of one lemon 

I grape fruit 

1 pint mayonnaise 



1 pint cream, whipped 

Cut the fruit the size of a half cherry; 
mix fruit, juice, mayonnaise and cream, 
turn into the can of a freezer and turn 
the crank slowly until the mixture is 
frozen; pack the frozen mixture in 
quart molds and let stand a half to a full 
hour. Serve, cut in slices, with lettuce 
hearts and French dressing made with 
lemon juice. This will serve between 
thirty and forty people. 



Query No. 2728. — ■ "Recipes for about four- 
teen, attractive, palatable Desserts that are very 
economical. These desserts are to be used in a 
boys' and girls' boarding school." 

Hot Cornstarch Pudding 



1 quart milk 
f cup cornstarch 
z cup sugar 



1 teaspoonful salt 

2 eggs 

I cup sugar 



Reserve a little of the milk to mix with 
the cornstarch and scald the rest in a 
double boiler. When the milk is hot, 
stir in the cornstarch mixed with the 
cold milk; add the sugar and salt and 
stir until the mixture thickens, then 
cover and let cook twenty minutes ; beat 
the eggs, beat in the second quantity of 
sugar and stir into the hot mixture; 
cover and let cook, stirring occasionally, 
about five minutes or until the egg is set. 
Serve with rich milk and sugar or with 

Chocolate Sauce 

Mix thoroughly together one cup and 
a half of granulated sugar and one-fourth 
a cup of cocoa ; stir in one cup of boiling 
water and let cook, stirring often until 
the mixture boils, five or six minutes. 
Use'hot or cold. Flavor with half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract before using. 



Queen of Puddings 

2 cup fine soft bread crumbs 

4 egg-yolks, beaten light | Grated rind 1 lemon 

1 cup sugar i Fruit jelly 

4 cups milk | 4 egg-whites 

I teaspoonful salt | ^ cup sugar 

Add part of the sugar to the crumbs 
and part to the beaten yolks, mix thor- 
oughly and combine; add the milk and 
salt and let bake until firm in the center; 
grate the rind over the top and spread 
jelly over the whole (sifted apple sauce 
or any fruit marmalade or sauce may be 
substituted). Beat the whites very 
light; gradually beat in the half cup of 
sugar and spread over the jelly; dredge 
with granulated sugar and return to the 
oven until delicately browned. The 
meringue should not brown until the 
pudding has been in the oven at least 
ten minutes. 

Mock Indian Pudding 

Cut stale bread in slices, a scant half- 
inch thick and remove the crusts. 
Butter the bread, put the slices together 
and cut in cubes. To each cup of cubes 
allow two cups of milk, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and a scant half-cup of molasses. 
Bake in a buttered pudding dish, in a 
very moderate oven from two to three 
hours. Serve hot, with or without 
cream. 

Boiled Rice, Chocolate Sauce 

Boil rice directly over the fire (as 
potatoes) and drain, or cook in a double 
boiler; serve hot with chocolate sauce 
or with hard sauce. 

Tapioca Custard 

Scald one quart of milk and stir in 
one-third a cup of a quick-cooking 
tapioca; stir occasionally while cooking 
until the tapioca is transparent (about 
half an hour). Beat one or two eggs; 
beat in half a cup of sugar, and half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and stir into the hot 
tapioca; continue to cook and stir until 
the egg is set. Serve cold in custard 
cups. 



232 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Pineapple Tapioca Sponge 



2 cans grated pineapple 
1 cup boiling water 
1 cup quick cooking 

tapioca 
If cups sugar 



f teaspoonful salt 
Grated rind and juice 

one lemon 
4 egg-whites, beaten 

light and firm 



To the pineapple add the boiHng water, 
tapioca and salt and let cook in a double 
boiler until the tapioca is transparent ; add 
the sugar, and lemon and when again 
hot fold in the egg-whites. Serve hot or 
cold with cream and sugar or a thin 
custard sauce. Other fruit or fruit 
purees may replace the pineapple. 
Canned apricots are good for this dish. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding 



i cup sugar 

f teaspoonful cinnamon 

10 or 12 apples 



1 cup quick cooking 

tapioca 
5 cups boiling water 
1 teaspoonful salt 

Cook the tapioca in the boiling, 
salted water until transparent. Core 
the apples and set them in an agate 
baking dish; fill the centers with the 
sugar and cinnamon, pour over the hot 
tapioca and let bake until the apples are 
tender. Serve hot with milk and sugar. 

Prune Kuchen 

Cover the bottom of a baking dish 
with cooked and stoned prunes; make 
a soft, rich biscuit mixture (do not have 
it stiff enough to knead) and spread this 
over the prunes. Let bake until done, 
about twenty minutes. Serve hot, cut 
in squares, with cream and sugar. 
Sliced apples or peaches or canned 
apricots may be used in place of the 
prunes. 

Stewed Figs, with Cream 

Stew figs until the skins are tender. 
For a pound of figs add one-fourth a 
cup of sugar and let simmer six or eight 
minutes. Serve cold with thin cream. 

Apples Cooked with Dates 

Core and pare tart apples and rub 
over with the cut side of a lemon to keep 
from discoloring; fill the centers with 
two or three stoned dates, dredge lightly 



with sugar and let bake until done. 
Serve with or without thin cream. 

Jellied Prunes 



1 pound prunes, cooked 
1 package (2 ounces) 

gelatine 
1 cup cold water 



1 cup sugar 

I cup orange marmalade 
or juice of one lemon 



Wash the prunes, soak in cold water 
to cover overnight, and cook until tender; 
cut each prune in three or four pieces, 
discarding the stone, (there should be 
about five cups of prunes and liquid) ; 
dissolve the gelatine softened in the 
cold water in the hot prune juice, add 
the sugar and marmalade, or the lemon 
juice, stir until beginning to thicken, 
then turn into a mold. Set aside in a 
cool place. When unmolded serve with 
sugar and cream — or a boiled custard. 

Junket Ice Cream 

1 gallon whole milk 4 Junket tablets 

1 quart cream 4 tablespoonfuls cold 

1 quart sugar water 
4 tablespoonfuls vanilla 

Turn the milk, cream, sugar and 
vanilla into the can of the freezer ; crush 
the Junket tablets, mix with the cold 
water and stir into the mixture in the 
freezer and continue to stir until the 
sugar is dissolved, then put the dasher 
in place and set the can on the back of 
the range or in a pan of lukewarm water ; 
the mixture must not be heated higher 
than ninety degrees Fahrenheit. When 
the mixture has jellied, set it into cold 
water to chill, then pack in the freezer 
with salt and crushed ice and freeze. 
The expense is lessened when it is pos- 
sible to freeze the mixture with snow or 
ice made by setting a pan of water out-, 
side the house. This may be varied 
with fruit sauces or with caramel or 
chocolate sauce. 

Gingerbread, with Whipped Cream 



I cup butter 
I cup sugar 
I cup molasses 
1 cup thick sour 

milk 
If cups pastry flour 
1 teaspoonful soda 



I teaspoonful salt 
1 tablespoonful ginger 
1 teaspoonful cin- 
namon 
Apple jelly 

1 cup cream, whipped 

2 tablespoonfuls suga r 



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Crisco Doughnuts 



golden brown in sixty sec- 



l tca^-poonfuls 

Crisco 
',' cupful sugar 



3 cupfuls flour 
3 teaspoonfuls 

baking powder 
f teaspoonful salt 



i to 1 teaspoonful 
spices (mace, cin- 
namon or nutmeg, 
or 3 of each) 

6 tablespoonfuls milk 
(Use accurate level measu?ements) 

Cream the Crisco, add the sugar gradually, creaming after each 
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Janet McKenzie Hill of the Bobton Cooking School Some of 
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Contains 150 new recipes and the Story of Cnsco. Sent for five 
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— Do not accept substitutes 
233 



234 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cream the butter; beat in the sugar 
and molasses, add the sour milk then 
the flour sifted with the soda, salt, 
ginger and cinnamon. Bake in two 
layer cake pans, put the layers together 
with jelly and when cold, cover the 
top with whipped cream. Sprinkle with 
chopped nut meats if desired. This 
cake will serve ten. 

Recipes for Rebecca Pudding, Corn- 
starch Blancmange and Sea Moss Farine 
Blancmange, all simple and easily made 
desserts, may be found in the June-July 
number of this magazine. 



Query No. 2729. — "Recipe for a Fruit Cake 
made with graham flour." 

Whole Wheat Fruit Cake 



2 cups entire wheat flour 

^ teaspoonful soda 

1| teaspoonfuls mixed 

spices 
1 cup sour milk 



I cup butter 

1^ cups sugar 

1 cup seeded raisins 

1 egg beaten without 

separating 
i cup pastry flour 

Add the raisins (currants or nuts may 
be substituted) to the butter and sugar 
creamed together, then the egg and, al- 
ternately, the flour sifted with the soda 
and spices and the sour milk. Turn the 
mixture into small tins — it will take 
eighteen — and dredge the tops with 
granulated sugar. Bake about twenty- 
five minutes. 

This cake may be made with graham 
flour, but is made more successfully with 
whole wheat flour. If graham flour be 
used, fit small papers into the bottom of 
the tins as the cake is quite liable to 
stick to the pans. 



Query No. 2730. — "Recipes for Bran Muffins 
and Bran Bread or Biscuit that call for very lit- 
tle sweetening. Does a mixture of half flour and 
half bran require as much baking powder as a 
an article made of all flour?" 

Bran Muffins 



2 cups bran 

1 cup whole-wheat flour 

3 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder 

I tablespoonful salt 



3 tablespoonfuls short- 
ening 

2 tablespoonfuls mo- 
lasses 

1| cups thick sour milk 

I teaspoonful soda 

Sift together the flour, baking powder, 
salt and soda; add the bran, melted 



shortening, molasses and milk and mix 
thoroughly. Bake in hot well-buttered 
muffin pan about half an hour. In this 
recipe the same quantity of leavening 
would not be very appetizing. All 
sweetening may be omitted, if not de- 
sired. 

One Loaf Bran Bread 



1 cake compressed yeast 
J cup lukewarm water 
1 cup scalded milk 
1 teaspoonful shortening 
I teaspoonful salt 



I teaspoonful molasses 

or sugar 
3 cups wholewheat flour 

or white bread flour 

Bran as required for 

kneading, about 3 cups 

Mix the yeast through the water; dis- 
solve the shortening in the milk ; add the 
salt, molasses or sugar, the yeast in the 
water and stir in the flour and bran; 
knead until smooth, cover and let stand 
until doubled in bulk, cut down and 
shape into a loaf; when again light bake 
one hour. 



Query No. 2731.— "Recipes for Damson Pre- 
serves also for Damson Sweet Pickles." 

Damson Preserves 

Prick the plums with a coarse needle 
in five or six places, that the skin may 
not burst. Weigh the fruit and allow 
three-fourths a pound of sugar to a 
pound of fruit. Take a cup of boiling 
water for each pound of sugar; dissolve 
the sugar in the water, let boil about five 
minutes and skim ; add the plums, a few 
at a time, and let simmer until soft. 
Remove the fruit to jars with a skimmer; 
add other fruit and cook as before until 
all is cooked; drain all syrup in the jars 
into the saucepan, let boil until reduced 
somewhat, then use to fill the jars. Seal 
as canned fruit or store in earthen jars 
as jelly. 

Sweet Pickled Damsons 



I cup stick cinnamon in 

inch lengths 
I cup whole cloves 



8 pounds plums 
4| pounds sugar 
1 pint vinegar 
1 cup water 

Prick the plums in several places. 
Make a syrup of the sugar, vinegar, 
water and spices; add the plums, cover 
and heat to the boiling point. Set aside 



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236 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



covered until the next day. Skim the 
plums into jars; boil the syrup until 
thick, pour over the plums and seal. 
With firm plums, reheat in the syrup 
then skim to the jars and reduce the 
syrup by boiling then finish as before. 



Query No. 2732,— "Recipe for Custard Ren- 
versee given in the menus in 1915, also recipe 
for Divinity Cake." 

Custard Renversee 



I cup granulated sugar 
4 eggs or 2 eggs and 4 
yolks 



1 tablespoonful salt 
i cup sugar 

2 cups milk 



Stir the half cup of sugar in a small 
sauce pan over a quick fire until the 
sugar melts and becomes light brown in 
color. Lift the pan from the fire occa- 
sionally and stir constantly to prevent 
burning. As soon as the sugar is melted, 
turn it into a mold that holds nearly 
three cups. With an oven cloth held in 
both hands, take up the mold and tip it 
from side to side to coat, or line, it com- 
pletely with caramel. The work must 
be done very quickly or the caramel will 
harden before the mold is completely 
lined. Beat the eggs (two eggs and four 
yolks make a richer custard than four 
whole eggs), add the salt, and sugar and 
beat again ; add the milk and strain into 
the mold. Set into a baking pan on 
many folds of paper and surround with 
boiling water, to half the height of the 
mold, let cook in the oven until firm in 
the center. The water should not boil 
during the cooking. Let chill, then turn 
from the mold ; the caramel will coat the 
custard and form a sauce on the dish. 

Divinity Fudge Cake 



1 cup butter 

1| cups sifted brown 
sugar 

2 egg-yolks 

^ cup sifted brown sugar 
4 ounces chocolate 

(melted) 
i cup hot water 
I cup thick sour milk 



2^ cups flour 

1 teaspoonful soda 

2 egg-whites, beaten 
very light 

I teaspoonful ground 

cinnamon 
I teaspoonful ground 

cloves 
i cup chopped raisins 



Beat the butter to a cream and gradu- 
ally beat in the cup and a half of sugar. 
Beat the egg-yolks light; beat in the half 



cup of sugar and beat the two mixtures 
together; add the chocolate, then, alter- 
nately, the warm water and sour milk 
with the flour sifted with the soda ; lastly, 
beat in the egg-whites. Have three 
layer-cake pans well buttered; put cake 
mixture into two of these, leaving one- 
third of it in the bowl ; to the mixture in 
the bowl add the spices and raisins, mix 
and turn into the third pan ; bake about 
twenty minutes. Put the layers to- 
gether and cover the outside with 

Divinity Frosting 



2 cups sugar 
^ cup Karo or corn syrup 
2 egg-whites, beaten 
very light 



i^ cup water 
1 cup pecan nut meats 
i teaspoonful salt 
4 figs cut in pieces 



Use granulated, brown or maple sugar 
or a mixture of these ; add the corn syrup 
and water and boil to 240 degrees Fah- 
renheit (sugar thermometer) or to soft 
ball stage. Pour the syrup on the egg- 
whites, beating constantly meanwhile, 
continue to beat until the mixture holds 
its shape, then add the nuts and figs, the 
salt and flavoring to suit the taste. 



Query No. 3733 — "Give suggestions in re- 
gard to the planning of the menus in a girls 
college, where four hundred pupils are enrolled, 
and a close watch on expenditures must be made." 

Catering for the Table, in a Girls' 
College 

A close watch on expenditures is essen- 
tial in the planning of dietaries every- 
where. First of all, let girls be well fed, 
the health of the nation depends on it; 
then if there be money, let them by all 
means be well educated. College girls 
and boys are still growing and need an 
abundance of nutritious palatable food ; 
often the question should be, how can 
the food be so presented that it will be 
eaten in abundance, rather than how 
may the table be supplied with the least 
expense. Protein in the form of meat, 
fish, eggs, milk and grains should be pro- 
vided liberally, and be supplemented 
with root and green vegetables and fresh 
fruit. Cooks endowed with versatilitv 



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No'w try it for making fudge and candy. The result "will please yoa 
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I Two cups sugar, }4 cake good 

j chocolate(uns\A^eetened); but- 

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j cup of Carnation Milk. Put all 

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j until it forms a soft ball in cold 

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I Cut in squares. 



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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
237 



238 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and imagination are quite as essential in 
the college kitchens as learned professors 
in the class rooms. As a rule, there is 
too much monotony at college tables; 
not enough attention is given to the 
bread supply, and breakfast cereals are 
eaten in too large quantities. Fried food 
is rarely seen, but deep fat frying, care- 
fully carried out, is well worth occasional 
presentation; especially is this so when 
the fried dish takes the form of filets of 
fresh fish. Junket ice cream, with some 
one of the many sauces that young people 
like, is a good means of rounding out a 
dinner, lacking in the protein element. 
The woman who has the oversight of a 
college table needs to be well grounded 
in dietetics and in the actual manipula- 
tion of food products, and she must be 
willing to bury herself in her work from 
the beginning to the end of the school 
session. 



Wash Your Food 

The Pennsylvania Health Commis- 
sioner, Doctor Samuel L. Dixon, warns 
against eating raw food unless it is thor- 
oughly washed. 

"Care should be exercised in the prep- 
aration and serving of green foods, as 
they are subject to much handling be- 
tween the garden and the table. Un- 
less the hands through which they pass 
are absolutely clean they are raore or 
less contaminated. Food exposed for 
sale in markets is also often subject to 
indiscriminate handling by prospective 
purchasers, and is seldom properly pro- 
tected from dust and dirt. 

**As a protection, berries and food- 
stuffs eaten raw should be washed 
before being served. It is far better to 
risk a slight impairment of the flavor 
than to chance eating unclean foods." 



Whenever I hear a good new story, 
says Irvin vS. Cobb, or a good old story 
dressed up in new clothes and well pre- 
sented by its present sponsor, I say to 
myself that that's the best story I ever 
heard. 



The Little Old Lady in the Gardens 

It was Paris — in springtime. 

But the little old lady in the carriage 
had no eyes for the milliner girls, with 
their bandboxes, smiles and bunches of 
flowers. Even the budding of the elms 
and the chestnuts, the gay spots of the 
boulevard, meant nothing to her any 
more. 

She sat very straight, for an elderly 
lady, in the landau. Her weary-lidded 
eyes were half shut; but it made no dif- 
ference, for she saw things just as clearly 
— thinking back as old people will. Now 
and again she would smile tremulously 
at her two companions, and they would 
nod in sympathetic comprehension over 
what most of the hurrying world had 
forgotten. As the horses turned from 
the Champs Elysees, the friends watched 
her the more kindly. The carriage 
swung about a great open place vibrant 
with the shimmer of verdure crowding in- 
to full green — Paris, the captive of spring. 

As for the little old lady, she only 
pressed her agitated lips together, then 
beckoned the coachman onto the curb. 
Her friends hastened to step out; she 
laid a detaining hand on the door, a re- 
monstrance of quiet dignity. 

"No, my dear." 

Would they remain in the carriage for 
a little while, because it was an old per- 
son's wish — to be alone in the Gardens ? 

They would, of course. 

Not even the footman to follow her ? 

Not even the footman. 

And she smiled her appreciation to 
them. 

She had not long, this springtime, in 
Paris. Moreover, one could not tell if 
there would be another for her. Old 
people could not count too much on to- 
morrow. Long ago she had learned that 
it was only yesterdays that never failed, 
no matter how often taken from the 
coverings of the past. 

She idled down the walks among the 
nursemaids with their serge caps and 
starched linen, and the precisely dressed 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Through Vera Cruz in 
Mexico comes most of the 
world's choicest vanilla 
beans. Over one-half o* 
the best of this crop is 
taken for Burnett's Va- 
nilla. In certain poor 
seasons no really first 
choice beans are pro- 
duced. A reserve stock 
therefore is kept from 
year to year to insure 
the uniform high qual- 
ity of Burnett's Vanilla. 



Marshmallow Pudding 

Soak 1 tablespoonful gela- 
tine in V2 cup water. Beat 
whites of 2 eggs and add 1 
cup sugar. Add 1/2 cup hot 
water to gelatine mixture 
and then add the beaten 
eggs. Beat 20 minutes, 
flavor with 3^ teaspoonful 
Burnett's Vanilla, place in 
mold and serve cold. 



Why Vanilla 
, flavor differs 
^1 so much 

/ Anyone can make pure Vanilla Ex- 
tract — and thousands do. Vanilla 
beans can be bought for as little as 
two dollars a pound — but they are of 
a very low grade. Tonka beans cost 
even less, but taste only something 
like vanilla. An extract made of two 
dollar materials is "pure" vanilla, but 
how different from one made of high 
quality vanilla beans alone. For more 
than half a century only the pick of 
the Mexican bean crop — which is 
admittedly the best in the world — 
has been used in making 




^^^NILlIiO^ 



The delicate flavor, the rich deliciousness, the 
concentration of this famous extract make its 
use not only a delight to the palate but also a 
positive economy. You can get it — if you 
want it. 

DESSERT BOOK — FREE 

Send us your grocer's name and we will mail you a copy 
of "115 Dainty Desserts." It is interesting and helpful. 



Joseph Burnett Co. 

36 India Street, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
239 



240 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



children. The young ones stared after 
her — she seemed in some way the grand- 
mother of them all. And the nurses 
stopped flirting with the gendarmes long 
enough to wonder who she was, this old 
lady. As for her, the dead years fell 
away while she lived again other morn- 
ings spent in the Gardens when it was 
springtime — the springtime of her days. 

He-he \ an old one! . . . She saw that 
the paths were nicely graveled — just as 
they used to be ; the grass plots were as 
blatant a green as in the other times. 
Even a flower bed — ! 

She stepped closer and blinked her 
eyes, for they were not what they once 
were. Something hard kept coming 
into her throat as she reached for the 
single bloom. ... 

"Pardon, madame, but it is not per- 
mitted to pick the flowers here !" 

At the sound of the rough voice, peril- 
ously near, the little old lady started. 
She turned, to be confronted by a gar- 
dener standing inflexibly in the path. In 
a flash the reminiscent happiness drop- 
ped from her worn face. 

The man shifted apologetically at the 
sight of the pain in the little old lady's 
eyes — maledict'ons on the rules! He 
caught at his hat, relenting, with a jerk 
of courtesy 

"But the flower in the hand, it is that 
you may keep it," he added, not un- 
graciously. 

Agitated, the other clutched the ne 
m'ouhliez pas in her thin white fingers. 

The gardener coughed discreetly. 

**If it might be asked — your name?" 

"My name?" repeated the little old 
lady. She looked at the forget-me-not 
in her hand, then away up the path. 
There seemed to be something recalled 
by it, for she drew herself up in a kind of 
imperial dignity. The gardener was al- 
most impressed. Une grande dame ? He 
regarded her closely as she spoke. 

"I am Eugenie," she said simply. 

She smiled upon the republican with 
distant sweetness. She walked up the 
newly raked gravel, slowly, clasping the 
forget-me-not. 



The gardener gazed after her — 
scratched his head. 

"Eugenie! what do you know?" 
blankly interrogated the man. "Eu- 
genie — eh, now — Eugenie what?" ' 
— The Chimaera. 



Physical Preparedness 

The belief seems to be growing that 
physical training in the American public 
schools should be standardized, greatly 
improved, and made obligatory. The 
Swiss system, which begins with young- 
sters of eight or ten years, or some adap- 
tation thereof, is being strongly urged in 
many quarters. Adoption of such a 
system, administered by carefully 
trained and thoroughly competent in- 
structors, ought in very few years to 
bring American youth to the requisite 
degree of "physical preparedness" — 
which would fit them, broadly speaking, 
for better and more useful citizenship in 
peace as in war time. 



The standard of success neatly por 
trayed by Short Stories will be appre- 
ciated by the devotees of church bazars : 

Mabel: Was your bazar a success? 

Gladys: Yes, indeed, the minister 
will have cause to be grateful. 

Mabel : How much were the profits ? 

Gladys: Nothing. The expenses 
were more than the receipts. But ten of 
us got engaged, and the minister is in for 
a good thing in wedding fees. 

-The Daily Use in the Home of 

Vlatts Chlorides . 

TheOdorlessDisinfectant. 

Is not a Luxury but 
a Necessity 

It Protects Health and 
Prevents Sickness 

Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Evenrwhere 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




To Crown the Breakfast Table 

There are three royal cereals — Puffed Wheat, Puffed Rice and Corn Puffs — ^ 
made to crown your breakfast table. 

However you regard them — ^ as foods or as dainties — nothing else made from 
these grains can compare with them. 

As fascinating foods — as hygienic foods — they represent the pinnacle of what 
these grains can offer. 

Tit-Bits Shot From Guns 



Puffed Grains seem like bonbons. 'They are 
airy, flaky bubbles with a most enticing taste. 

But Puffed Wheat and Rice are wLole grains 
with every food cell exploded. By Prof. Ander- 
son's process they are made so that every atom 
feeds. 

The grains are sealed in guns. They are 
given terrific heat. All the moisture in them is 
changed to steam. Then the guns are shot, and 



the steam explodes. There occur in each kernel 
a hundred million explosions. 

The result is, wholegrains made wholly digest- 
ible. Every element is made available. No 
other method of cooking these grains breaks 
more than half of the food cells. 

That is why Puffed Grains, with folks who 
know, form such a large part of the diet. 



PuffedWheat 
Puffed Rice 

Corn PuiFs — Bubbles of Com Hearts — 1 5c 



Except 
in 
Far 
West 



12c 
15c 



At Bedtime 



At breakfast, of course, you serve with sugar and cream. 
Or mixed with any fruit. But for luncheons or suppers 
serve in bowls of milk or cream. Use in place of bread and 
crackers. ■ . 

Then you have whole grains, toasted and flaky, ready 



to melt in the mouth. You have foods which don't tax the 
stomach. And you know that every element feeds. 

A home misses much which doesn't keep all three of 
these foods on hand. 



The Quaker Qdits (^mpany 



(1395) 



Sole Makers 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
241 



The Silver Lining 



Lonesomeville 

"Pore folks lives at Lonesomeville 

Lawzy! but they're pore! 
Houses with no winders in, 

And hardly any door: 
Chimbly all tore down, and no 

Smoke in that at all — 
Jst a stovepipe through a hole 

In the kitchen- wall! 

Pump that's got no handle on; 

And no woodshed — And woohl 
Mighty cold there, choppin' wood, 

Like pore-folks has to do! 
Winter-time, and snow and sleet 

Jst fairly fit to kill! — 
Hope to goodness Sartty Claus 

Goes to Lonesomeville!" 

James Whitcomh Riley 



Some time ago, says the Christian En- 
deavor World, Mrs. Brown called at the 
home of Mrs. Jones to talk over the fash- 
ions and things, and somewhere about 
the sixty-fifth lap of the conversation 
the caller referred to the young daughter 
of the host. 




OBLONO RUBBER BUTTON 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

The Oblong Rubber 
Button is an exclusive 
feature of Velvet Grip 

goods. This most im- 
portant modem improve- 
ment in hose supporters has 
taken the place of the old- 
fashioned round button. It 
is a cushion of solid live 
rubber, and because of its 
large holding surface it pre- 
vents tearing and drop 
stitches. 

Bay corsets having the hose 
supporters with the Oblong 
Rubber Button. 

Sample set of four 
*Sew-ons* ' for women, 
50 cents, postpaid. 
Sample pair of "Pin- 
ons" for children, 15 
cents postpaid [give 
age]. Sample pair of 
"Baby Midgets'* for 
infants— lisle, 10 cents; 
silk. 1 5 cents, postpaid. 




"By the way, dear," remarked Mrs. 
Brown inquisitively, "where is Minnie? 
I haven't seen her for ^n age." 

"Minnie is at college," proudly re- 
sponded the fond mother and then added : 
"And I am so worried about her. I 
haven't had a letter from her for nearly 
two weeks." 

"There is where you made a mistake," 
was the prompt rejoinder of Mrs. Brown. 
"Instead of letting her go to college why 
didn't you send her to one of those cor- 
respondence schools?" 



A Colonel by Marriage 

The Dundee Advertizer is responsible 
for this latest version of a war-time story. 

A traveler in Texas says that he was 
riding along a cattle-trail near the New 
Mexico line when he met a rather pom- 
pous-looking native of the region, who 
introduced himself as Colonel Higgins, 
of Devil's River. 

"Were you a colonel in the Confeder- 
ate army?" the traveler asked. 

"No, sah." 

"On the Union side, then?" 

"No, sah; nevah was in no wah." 

"Belong to the Texas Rangers?" 

"No, sah; I do not." 

"Ah, I see; you conimand one of the 
State militia regiments." 

"No, sah; I don't. Don't know noth- 
ing about soldiering." 

"Where, then, did you get the rank of 
colonel?" 

"I'se a kunnel by marriage, sah." 

"By marriage? How's that?" 

"I married the widow of a kunnel, sah 
— Kunnel Thompson, of Waco." 



m GEORGE FROST COMPANY, 

nil 



MAKERS, BOSTON g 

IlilllllllllllllillilllillllllillllllllllllllliilllllilJilll 



The Farm Point of View 

A man traveling in Maine met a mid- 
dle-aged farmer, who said his father, 
ninety years old, was still on the farm 
where he was born. The Western 
Christian Advocate reproduces the ensu- 
ing conversation. 

"Ninety years old, eh?" 



242 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




iillllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll^^^ 




How inviting it loohs 

In Pyrex food bakes so uni- 
, formly and quickly that it practi- 
cally never burns. You can watch 
the baking right through this 
transparent ware, without remov- 
ing from the oven. Then you 
may serve in the same dish. 

In serving pies each cut comes 
from the plate without sticking 
— smooth and whole. The pie 
is an even delicate brown from 
rim to rim^the bottom baked 
( as perfectly as the top. On the 
table it is attractive and 



appetizmg. 




.TRADE MARK RE& 



Transparent 

Oven-Ware 

Has the name on every piece 



Use Pyrex in any oven. It does not craze, crack 
nor flake; absorbs no odors. It is durable, practical, 
easily washed, immaculately clean and sanitary. 

Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 1 5c to 
large casseroles at ^2. Dealers in house- wares every- 
where sell Pyrex. Ask them for 
booklet. .^-^^i^^ 




CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave. 

CORNING, N. Y., U. S. A. Established 1868 



illlllllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllll 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
243 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Make Your Cream 100% 
Efficient with 

^REMO y ESCO 

For Whipped Cream use equal 
parts of heavy cream amd milk vi^ith 
CREMO-VESCO. 

A 20-25 % cream with all its richness 
and viscosity made available by Cremo- 
Vesco is much more satisfactory for 
whipping than a heavy cream. It whips 
up as easily and as stiffly. It keeps 
sweet from 12-24 hours longer. It makes 
a rich tasting whipped cream without 
any of the "too rich" results of heavy 
cream. It cuts your cream bill in half. 

CREMO-VESCO makes the pure all 
cream whipped cream and ice cream. 

Household size, prepaid, 25 cents. 16 
ounce bottle vrhips up 75 quarts of cream, 
$1.00. 

Order direct or through your grocer. 

Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN. N.Y. 




STICKNEY & POOR'S 

FLAVORING EXTRACTS 

In 10c and 20c sizes 

Like all Stickney & Poor Products they are manufactured in strict 
accordance with the long established ideds, — ideals which have 
made the name Stickney & Poor honored for over a hundred years. 

SO GOOD, SO RELIABLE 

For Goodness Sake if you want pure, dehciouc and economical 
Flavorings, say "Stickney & Poor's" to your grocer. 

Your Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT 



STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY ^ 

1815- -Century Old— Century Honored- 1916 f 

BOSTON, MASS. 



"Yes, pop is close to ninety." 

"Is his health good?" 

"'Taint much now. He's been com- 
plaining for a few months back." 

"What's the matter with him?" 

"I dunno; sometimes I think farmin' 
don't agree with him." 



Mrs. Flanagan's Change of Air 

This Irish colloquy comes from the 
Pittsburgh Chronicle- Telegraph : 

Flanagan sat on his front doorstep en- 
joying the balmy freshness of the spring 
evening. 

Presently his neighbor Murphy paused 
by the fence for a chat. 

"A foine av'nin," said he, pleasantly. 
"But why isn't Mrs. Flanagan wid ye 
enj'yin' the air?" 

"Sure, Mike," replied Flanagan, 
"the missus has gone for a change av 
air." 

"Has she, now?" replied Murphy, 
interested. "And Oi hope the change 
will do her good. And where was she 
after goin'? Broighton, Oi suppose?" 

"Then ye suppose wrong," Flanagan 
informed him. "Sure, an' isn't she 
seated at this moment on the back 
doorstep?" 

A Moral Lesson Somewhere 

At the end of a South Carolina negro 
meeting, as Case and Comment tells the 
story, it was decided to take up a collec- 
tion for charity. The chairman passed 
the hat himself. He dropped a dime in 
it for a nest-egg. 

Well, every right hand there entered 
that hat, and yet, at the end, when the 
chairman turned the hat over and shook 
it, not so much as his own contribution 
dropped out. 

"Fo' de lan's sake!" he cried. "Ah's 
eben los' de dime Ah stahted wiv!" 

All the rows of faces looked puzzled. 
Who was the lucky man? Finally the 
venerable Calhoun White summed up 
the situation. 

"Breddern," he said solemnly, rising 
from his seat, "dar 'pears ter be a great 
moral lesson roun' heah somewhar." 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
244 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




IAl diocxdate-flavored wl 
iMsp baMii^ a filHno of ciiil 
flawared cream,aiiother choc^ 
llaiii«d wafer, this is ANOLi 
the Ivii^arAvafer cranfec^^ eve 
6q>i|p|>priate, ever appreciate! 

nM"1C)NAL BISGU IT COM RAN 



• fl 11 1 1 • 1 ill 



uy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
245 



^ 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




400,000 Housewives are using this Extractor 

Five Times As Big As Picture 

Sent to You 
At Actual Cost to Us 



Fits biggest oranges as well as sjjiallest lemons, and gets 
all the Juice. Just hold under faucet to clean. Made 
of heavy, tough glass, so it lasts a lifetime; you've no 
idea how convenient it is. Send for yours now. Stamps 
will do. 

If your dealer hasn't this big Sunkist Orange Juice Extractor 
— 5 34 inches in diameter, 8 inches from handle to spout— send us 
16c (if the town you Hve in is Ea t of the Missouri River) or 24c 
(if your town is West of the Missouri River or in Canada) and 
we'll send direct charges prepaid. 

We make offer at actual cost to ub merely to make it easier 

for our customers to prepare healthful orange juice. 

Address 

California Fruit Growers Exchange 



A Non-profit Co-operative Organization of 8000 Growers 
Dept. B 80. 139 N. Clark Street. Chicago 



(574) 



Easy to Make - Delicious and Nourishing 



Six Pure Natural Flavors 



^^V.'«^Sk«^-^ \o» - 



Lemon 
Orange 
Raspberry 




NESMfiR 



TRY IT^pi^ 

THC JUNk'c't Vo LK S \ 



Or Hin»nl [ jborjtory LrtlkFtfIs NV 



Vanilla 
Almond 
Chocolate 



Made with warm milk 

A postcard xvill bring a free sample and a 
booklet of recipes 



THE JUNKET FOLKS 

Box 2507 
Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc. - Little Falls, N. Y. 



A Perfect Cake 

(Continued from page 199) 

At last they had captured the enemy's 
trench; they were in it; some of the men 
had escaped, but thick around them 
were the dying and dead. And there 
were prisoners. One of these was a 
private who had been wounded, it was 
at the moment uncertain how seriously; 
but evidently, he was suffering much and 
he was so young; to Atkinson he did 
not look more than seventeen. His 
captor forgot that he was an enemy, 
that he was a German; poor fellow, he 
was suffering, and now that he had 
ceased fighting, he was a brother. The 
captain laid his hand on the young 
fellow's shoulder. "Cheer up!" he said 
to him in German, "you'll be looked 
after — - 1 mean your wounds — as soon 
as possible. Then I hope you'll not 
have to fight us much longer." Then 
an impulse made him add, "And when 
the war is over and you're in your own 
home once more, we'll all be friends 
again. Isn't that so? Isn't that better 
than war?" 

"Home!" echoed the young prisoner 
with indescribable pathos. "When will 
that be? I know not what has become 
of them; they keep back our letters 
from home because they tell of pain and 
hunger. Oh, to see them once more! 
To have one word from them!" 

"Sit down here," said the other as he 
tried to bind up the wound, to stop the 
bleeding until the surgeon could attend 
to it, or until one of the Red Cross knights 
would come to him. "Oh, home! home!" 
repeated the young fellow, his self- 
restraint broken down by hearing his 
native tongue spoken by his enemy. 
For Atkinson was somewhat of a lin- 
guist. "Just for a word from home!" 
And the tears in the boy's eyes over- 
flowed. 

"There!" said Atkinson. "That will 
do until somebody who knows more 
can take you in hand. Keep up heart, 
young fellow. You'll be all right soon; 
we'll take good care of you so long as 
you're our prisoner." Then at another 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
246 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




THREE INGREDIENTS of 



THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER ■^'^owDii 



RYZON contains bicarbonate of soda, cornstarch, pure 
. monosodium phosphate crystals and nothing else. 

Bicarbonate of soda is common to all baking powders. 
Its properties are known to all women, for it is almost a 
household necessity. 

Cornstarch, too, is an ingredient of all baking powders. 
In every kitchen it is in general use. No one questions its 
desirability as a food. 

Monosodium phosphate is new. 

Its newness is certified by patent granted by U. S. 
Government. 

It is exclusive to RYZON, The Perfect Baking Powder, 
and it is in a large part responsible for its perfection. 

The opinions of famous pure food, domestic science and 
cooking experts have established the desirability of mono- 
sodium phosphate. 

Moreover, science conclusively shows that man cannot 
live without phosphates in his food. 




10c, 18c and 3Sc 

If your grocer cannot sup" 
ply you, send 3Sc for a 
pound tin to address below. 



GENERAL CHEMICAL COMPANY 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 
25 BROAD STREET 
NEW YORK CITY 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
247 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Make Your Cooking 
Perfect Cooking 

(r& wford 



Make Good Cooking A Habit 

The Crawford Single Damper is one of 
twenty reasons why. A single move of an always- 
cool knob instantly regulates "Kindle," "Bake" 
or "Check-'* It saves coal. 

The Crawford Oven is another wonderful 
aid to good cooking. The curved cup-joint 
flues distribute the heat evenly. There are no 
hot or cold corners. 

Our improved combination ranges have sep- 
arate ovens for coal aad gas — both ovens 
perfect. 

Inspect the Crawford line at your Dealer's. 

You will find a 
wide range of 
styles and sizes to 
fit every idea, 
purpose and price. 



'X 





Walker & Pratt 
Mfg. Co. 

Makers of Highest 
Qualiiy Ranges 
■■& furnaces and Boilers 

Boston, U. S. A. 



repetition of the other's longing cry for 
home, a suggestion came to his listener. 
H-e took out the remains of the cake he 
had thrust ijito his pocket as he started 
on the change, and broke off a piece. 
"This came from my home in America," 
he said in a tone that those about him 
could not catch. "Just imagine that it 
came from your home and eat this. It 
is home food, you see. Think of it as a 
home message." 

The young soldier looked at him in 
amazement . and _gratitude;^. .and as he 
tasted the cake, an expression of satis- 
faction overspread his pale features. 
He nodded emphatically. "Yes — yes, ' ' 
he pronounced, "it is just exactly the 
very same as hers — the very same." 
He looked up at the other with a smile 
full of pathos. "It talks of home; you 
bring it nearer," he said. 

Atkinson wondered what Anna would 
say if she saw how he was using her 
cake? And if the good work it was 
doing was not another evidence that it 
w^as incomparable? 

Should he ever be able to tell her face 
to face ? 

Six months later the shot that wounded 
him sent him home to her. 

CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS 

Pickles, Relishes. Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Rip( 
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clear 
pure unadulterated California products from producer tc 
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble t( 
answer inquiries- 

JOHN T. GRIFFITH 
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal 



Then trade^mark 




^ery packagv 

lET FOR 
DIABETICS 

emnatisin, Obesity 

"^ Uric Acid 

sician."^^ading grocen 
let or sa^cle, wt 

. Watc?town.N.Y^lLS.A. 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALWAYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
248 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Canning Club Girls use 



RUBBER RINGS 



Government canning teachers insist on thick, elas- 
tic Rubber Rings which make an air-tight seal. 
GOOD LUCK RUBBER RINGS are the very best made. 

Send a 2c stamp for booklet, "Good Luck in Preserving," with 33 original recipes 

and an assortment of gummed labels. If your dealer cannot 

supply you, send 10c for 1 dozen rings 

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO.Dept. 3 Cambridge. Mass. 




ITNTISIT AT '^"^°^'' ^^ Luncheon Menus containing 183 recipes. 
UilUuU/llj Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv- 
ered 32c. Address King's Daaghters Society, 2320 E. lstSt.,DaIath.Mino. 

Domestic Science 

Home-Stxady Covirses 

Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents. 
" Five Gent Meals," 10 cents. 

AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO 




ALL KINDS OF LABOR AND MONEY-SAVING DEVICES 

will be found in beautiful catalog sent on request 
FRANK SPECIALTY HOUSE, Inc., Dept. 3, 433 Lenox Ave, New York 



Salt Mackerel 



CODFISH, 


FRESH 


LOBSTER 


FOR THE \ 
CONSUMER > 




% 


NOT THE 
DEALER 


FOR YOUR OWN TABLE 


'^ 



FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied DIRECT 
from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. DAVIS 
COMPANY, with newly caught, KEEPABLE OCEAN FISH, 

choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT sending 
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY 

express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appe- 
tizing and economical and we want YOU to try some, pay- 
ment subject to your approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious 
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not 
spoil on your hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for 

instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from 
meat, at a much lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads- 
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and 
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come toyou 
as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as 
crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell yourself. 

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your whole 
iamily will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of clams, 
whether fried or in a chowder. 

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to 
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, SAL- 
MON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY for 
salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing packed 
here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep right 
on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. ^...•* 

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES ...••'*' 
for preparing all our products. Write for it. Our ...-•■'prank E. 
list tells how each kind of fish is put up, with ^..••'' Davis Co. 
the delivered price, so you can choose ..•••■ fii:r»„», i wi. u 
just what you will enjoy most. ...••- riouctS^t M?« 
Send coupon for it now. ...••- ^, Gloucester, Mass. 

cntxTV r nAirrcrn •••'' Flease sendmeyour latest 

FRANK E. DA\ IS CO. ...- fish I rice List. 
65 Central Wharf 

Gloucester, ...••'' Kame 

Mass. 

..••■' Street . ... 



City. 



Slalt. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
249 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Requires 
No Soaking 



^J^. 



A Dish That Tempts 

Tapioca Cream Served with Fruit 

Beats strawberry shortcake! More 
wholesome, too. Send now for a free 
copy of the Minute Cook Book. 
It's brimful of seasonable suggestions 
tor delicious, dainty desserts. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA CO., 810 E. Main St., Orange, Mass. 



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Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72 
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No. 515. Carafe, Nickle Qt. 5.00 
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine 
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No. 871. Lunch Kit with enameled pint 
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SUPERIOR HOUSEHOLD ARTICLES 




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ADVERTISEMENTS 





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AMERICAN COOKERY 



In order to attain tKe Hi^Kest Possible 
State of Perfection, in MaKing all CaKes, 
and to be Certain of Sviccess every time, 
it is only necessary to use a regular set of 

The Van Deusen Cake Moulds 



and practice tKe Scientific 
Metbod furnisbed ^tb same. 

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The regular set consists of : 1 loaf and 2 layer 
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Chapman Cake Rules and Recipes; and it is to 
the best interest of all cake makers to see that 
their dealers carry these sets, for they include 
only what is absolutely necessary to have, in 
order to be certain of success, in making all cakes. 

The set sells at the same price that the same articles would bring 
separately, and the Recipes are only furnished with these sets. 

If your dealer will not supply you with these sets, we will send same, post- 
paid, as follows : To offices, in the United States, east of the Mississippi river, 
upon receipt of 90 cents and to those west of the same for $1.10. 

Send your orders 




to 



The Chapman Co. 



Geneva, N. Y* 



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252 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



yfe have an attractive proposition 

to make to those who will take subscriptions for 

American Cookery 

Write us if you wish to canvass your town or if you wish 
to secure only a few names among your friends and 
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Address 

SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



For a limited time we can supply 
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We will pay 12 cents each for Boston Cooking 
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Address 

American Cookery, Boston, Mass. 



We have issued a 16-page 

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so secure for yourself, without cost, some 
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



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Sample Paget F'ree. 
Amarican School of Home Economics, 



I ESSONS IN COOKING S?"J^j!r.-t 

266 leaaon&ble menus wath detailed radpea and full cKiectiooa ior pre- 
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— Do not accept substitutes 
253 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent post- 
paid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $6 or more, at list prices, we include a year's subscription 
to AMERICAN COOKERY (price $1). 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for 
quotation on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. .One order 
to us saves effort and express charges. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 

Fletcher $1.00 

A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers $ .75 
Air, Water, and Food. Woodman and 

Norton 2.00 

American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00 
American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef, 

veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted 

on cloth and rollers 10.00 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... 1.00 
Art and Economy in Home Decora- 
tions. Priestman 1.00 

Art o£ Entertaining. Madame Mesri 1.00 
Art of Home Candy-Making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50 

Art of Right Living. Richards 50 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 1.00 

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. 1.80 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 1.80 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer .50 
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 

King 1.00 

Candies and Bon Bons. Neil 1.00 

Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary 

Elizabeth Hall 75 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer .75 
Canning, Preserving & Jelly Making. 

Hill 1.00 

Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 

Marion H. Neil 1.00 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D. 75 

Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50 
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning 

Richards and Elliott 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 1.50 

Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 
Complete Home, The. Clara E. 

Laughlin 1.25 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 
Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 



Cost of Food. Richards $1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards l.OO 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Thompson 1.00 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50 

Domestic Art in Woman's Education. 

Cooley 1,25 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon.. 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mallock 1.00 

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid 

to Cooking. Robertson 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Electric Cooking, Heating and Clean- 
ing. Lancaster 1.50 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00 
Encyclopedia of Foods & Beverages-. 10.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. 

Learned 1.35 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50 

Euthenics. Richards 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00 
First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M, Farmer. . .. 1.60 
Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry 

Thompson 1.35 

Food & Flavor. Fmck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.10 

Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00 
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and 

Ushir 1.00 

Food & Sanitation. Forester and 

Wigley 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 3.50 

Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs .75 

Food in Health and Disease. L B. 

Yeo, M. D 2.50 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
254 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards $1.00 

Food Values,. Locke 1-25 

Franco-American Cookery Book. De- 

liee 3 50 

Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75 
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook cf Home Economics. Flagg .75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D 1.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd .60 
Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Furnishings, Practical and Art- 
istic. Kellogg 1.60 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 100 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

House Furnishing and Decoration. 

McClure and Eberlein 1.50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25 
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1,50 
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30 

Household Textiles, Gibbs....^ 1.25 

How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. 

Neil 1.00 

How To Cook for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00 

How To Feed Children. Hogan . . . 1.00 
How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75 

I Go A Marketing. Sowle 1.50 

Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.25 

International Cook Book. Filippini . . 1.00 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. 

Rose 1.10 

Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Like Mother Used to Make. Herrick 1.25 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations. 



Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 
Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. 

Rorer 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 
New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer 
New Hostess of Today. Larned . 



Mrs. 



.50 

.50 

.75 

1.60 

1.50 



New Salads. Mrs. Rorer $.75 

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1.00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

Planning and Furnishing the House. 

Quinn •. i.OO 

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 1.80 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50 

Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60 
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily 

A. M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

Allington 1.50 

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary 

D. Chambers 1.00 

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

Lowe Smith . , 1,50 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads and Sauces. Murray 50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60 

School Feeding. Bryant 1.50 

School Kitchen Text. Lincoln 60 

Selection and Preparation of Food. 

Brevier and Meter 75 

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50 
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10 
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food 

Products. Bailey 1.60 

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.00 

Table Service. Allen 1.25 

Textiles. Woodman and McGowan.. 2.00 
The New Housekeeping. Christine 

Frederick 1.00 

The Story of Textiles 3.00 

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How To 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. Charlotte 

Perkins Stetson 1.50 



Library of Home Economics: 



The House 

Household Bacteriology 
Household Hygiene 
Chemistry of the Household 
Principles of Cookery 
Food and Dietetics 



Household Management 
Personal Hygiene 
Home Care of the Sick 
Textiles and Clothing 
Study of Child Life 
Care of Children 



May be purchased as a set or singly at $1.50 a volume 



Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
255 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




BY THE PHOCIER 4 GAMBLE 



THE present scarcity of dye stuffs and the possible inferiority of those in use 
make it more necessary than ever that colored goods be washed with Ivory Soap. 

It is a simple matter to set colors so that water will not make them run but there 
is no way to make even the best of them stand the action of ordinary soap. 
The free alkali and other harsh materials in the average laundry soap are certain 
to fade colors sooner or later. Now it is more likely to be sooner than later. 

The only safe way is to use Ivory Soap from the start. It contains no ingre- 
dient that can affect colors even gradually. It is so mild and pure that it can 
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Make sure that water will not injure a fabric and you can be certain that 
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IVORY SOAP. . 




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256 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Out of sight! 



— The prices of all foodstuffs. See how the common neces- 
saries of life are going up — milk, bread, eggs, meats — in fact^ 
everything. Truly a dreadful condition of affairs. The 
situation, however, is not without relief. Money can be 
saved in a very simple way. A little personal effort, and the 
use of Mrs. Rorer's Cookery Books will point the way to 



great savings. 

Bread andBread' Making 

No baker can give you the variety this book gives. 
Just look at this wonderful list. White Wheat 
Bread, Whole Wheat Bread, French and Graham 
Bread, 19th Century, Golden Loaf, Swedish Bread, 
etc. Small Breads, such as Vienna Rolls, Pocket 
Book Rolls, Crumpets, Muffins, German Horns, 
Nuns' Puffs, etc. Second Cooking of Bread as 
Zwieback, Toasts, Pulled Bread, etc., followed by 
Quick Breads, Steamed Breads and Sweet Breads, 
Cakes, etc. 

Cloth, 50 cents; by mail, 55 cents. 



Made-Over Dishes 



Here is where clean, wholesome economy plays a 
part. Few realize the many palatable and whole- 
some dishes that can be made from the leftovers, 
to furnish a delightful luncheon or supper. The 
book is full of choice and valuable recipes. 

Cloth, 50 cents; by mail, 55 cents. 



Vegetable Cookery and 
Meat Substitutes 

It is good policy at times to omit meat from the 
daily menu. Two objects are gained — improve;- 
ment in health and saving of money. This book 
classifies the vegetables and shows how to get the 
most and best out of them. A bewildering array 
of choice recipes are given. As substitutes for meat, 
she offers a most engaging array of dishes, pala- 
table, novel, dainty and wholesome. Beside afford- 
ing an agreeable change, they save you money. 

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65. 

Many JVays for 
Cooking Eggs 

There's a great treat in store for you in the 
recipes in this book. There are wonderful 
methods of cooking eggs, easy to do, but giving 
variety and enjoyment to the household. 

Cloth, 50 cents ; by mail, 55 cents. 



Mrs. Rorer'^s Philadelphia Cook Book 

A wonderful book, full of the brightest things in Cookery; hundreds of choice recipes, absolutely 
reliable. Explanations and instructions are so clear that the beginner can do as well as the 
experienced cook. 



For sale by all Book Stores or Department Stores, or 

Arnold & Company, 422 Sansom Street, Phils^^phia 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
257 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXI 



NOVEMBER, 1916 



No. 4 



CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DAY ........ 265 

IMPORTANT PART FLOWERS PLAY ON THE LUNCH- 
EON TABLE — Illustrated Jane Vos 267 

PIE AND PATRIOTISM, A TRUE STORY OF A THANKS- 
GIVING CELEBRATION Myra C. Ousley 272 

YE BEEFSTEAK HOUSE Helen Forrest 275 

WHAT DOES YOUR FACE SAY Eleanor Robbins Wilson 278 

TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS . . Mary D. Chambers 280 

THE HOMECOMING Elias Lieberman 283 

STARVING HUMANITY A. W. Herr, M. D. 284 

EDITORIALS 286 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with 

half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . . Janet M, Hill 289 

MENUS, SUGGESTIONS FOR THANKSGIVING 

DAY „ „ „ 297 

MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN 

NOVEMBER „ „ „ 298 

ART IN COOKERY Margaret L. Sears 299 

LOCKERBIE STREET ....... Rose Henderson 801 

PRETTY SALAD GARNISHES . . . Nancy D. Dunlea 304 
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— New Discoveries— Scents 
that Cling — Glass Shelves — Burnt Edges for Place Cards — 

Flower Holders — Nasturtium Tea Porch 305 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 310 

THE SILVER LINING 322 

NEW BOOKS 318 

MISCELLANEOUS 326 



$1 00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c. 

Entered at BusLon post-office as second-class matter. 

Copyright, 1916, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldff., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 





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258 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



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The 
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frying in deep, hot Cottolene. 

Doughnuts, when you use Cott6- 
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Ask your grocer for regular supplies 
of Cottolene, in large or small pails, 
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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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ECONOMY IN LIVING 




How to simplify the art of 
living so as to cut the cost 
and get one's money's worth, 
yet be physically efficient — as 
explained by Dr. W. S. Birge, 
in his book. 



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INDEX FOR NOVEMBER 

PAGE 

Art in Cookery 299 

Editorials 286 

Homecoming The 283 

Home Ideas and Economies 305 

Important Part Flowers Play on the Lunch- 
eon Table 267 

Lockerbie Street 301 

Menus .265 297 298 

New Books 318 
Pie and Patriotism — ^A True Story of a 

Thanksgiving Celebration 272 

Pretty Salad Garnishes 304 

Silver Lining, The 322 

Starving Humanity 284 

Talks to a Normal Class 280 

What Does Your Face Say 278 

Ye Beefsteak House 275 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes: 

Boiled Dinner, New England, 111 292 

Bon Benches, Cold 289 

Cheese Boats, Little 289 

Chicken Galantine, Grape Decoration, 

111 293 

Chicken, Steamed, with Biscuit, 111 292 

Clam Bannock, New York Style 291 

Corncake 291 

Cream, Chocolate Bavarian, 111 296 

Fish, Baked in Crust, York Beach Style, 

III 290 

Mousse or Parfait, Chocolate 296 

Pastry, Plain, Flaky 295 

Pie, Apple, Flaky Crust, III 295 

Pie, Filling for Pumpkin, 111 295 

Rolls, Parker House, 111 294 

Salad, Celery and White Grape 293 

Salad. Fish, in Shells, 111 290 

Salad, Tomato-and-Celery-de-luxe, 111. . . 293 

Salad, Tuna Fish, III 291 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 293 

Sausage, Cannelon 292 

Soup, Tomato 290 

Tarts, Cranberry 296 

Queries and Answers : 

Apples, Baked, Time for Serving 312 

Cake, Spice, at High Altitude 312 

Caramels, Recipe for 312 

Cheese Balls for Soup 311 

Croquettes, Canned Shad 312 

Dumplings, Potato 311 

Finger Bowls at Luncheon 311 

Food, Cost of, per Person 310 

Food Exhibits for Schools 312 

Meat, What to Serve with 312 

Muf!ins, Cheese (high altitude) 312 

Omelet, Rum 311 

Peppers, Uses for Green 314 

Pie a la Mode 311 

Potato Souffie ;, 310 

Preserve, Citron Melon 310 

Salad, Canned Shrimp . . .- 314 

Shad, Canned, with Mushrooms . ...... .- '312 

Soup, Green Turtle : 314 



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260 



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BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

A NEW BOOK 
OF COOKERY 

An almost indispensable connpanion volume to Miss 
Farmer's "Boston Cooking-Schooi Cook Book." It contains 
852 recipes upon all branches not included in her older 
book, many of which are not to be found elsewhere. 

Over 200 illustraacns. $1.60 net, postpaid. 

TABLE SERVICE 

By LUCY G. ALLEN 

A clear, concise; and yet comprehensive exposition of the 
waitress' duties, including not only laying the table and serv- 
ing, but tray service, carving, the care of the dining room, etc. 
"Help for the troubled hostess." — Chicago News. 
"A mine of interesting information for the housekeeper and 
homemaker."— il/bM^r'j- Magazine. 

Fully illustrated. $i.2j net, postpaid. 

LITTLE, BROWN & CO., BOSTON 



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very fully and attractively illus- 
trated."— iV. Y. Sun. 
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supplied with illustrations — to 
look at them makes one hungry — 
and the recipes are given with clear 
directions." — Christian Register, 
Boston. 

" The book is very pleasing to the 
eye as well as satisfactory on the 
practical side." — Pittsburg Post. 



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auto-intoxication, eye-strain and worse disorders cause headaches. To be | 

you must get at their cause. How to do this is explained in a new book, i 

and How to Prevent Them" — by Dr. W. H. Riley, a Neurologist I 

had years of experience in treating all kinds of cases involving head- I 

You may get relief by following the teachings of Dr. Riley's book. I 

No drugs. Only natural means— diet, exercise, rest, and sleep. We I 

send this book for your FREE examination. All you do is ask I 

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If you keep the book, you remit only $1.25. Not a large book, j 

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AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative worlds on household economics. Any of the books will be sent post- 
paid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $6 or more, at list prices, we include a year's subscription 
to AMERICAN COOKERY (price $1). 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for 
quotation on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order 
to us saves effort and express charges. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 

Fletcher $1.00 

A Giiide to Laundry Work. Chambers $ .75 
Air, Water, and Food. Woodman and 

Norton 2.00 

American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00 
'American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef, 

veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted 

on cloth and rollers 10.00 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... 1.00 
Art and Economy in Home Decora- 
tions. Priestman 1.00 

Art of Entertaining. Madame Mesri 1.00 
Art of Home Candy-Making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50 

Art of Right Living. Richards 50 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 

King 

Candies and Bon Bons. Neil 

Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary 

Elizabeth Hall 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer 
Canning, Preserving & Jelly Making. 

Hill 

Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 

Marion H. Neil 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D. 

Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50 
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning 

Richards and Elliott 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 1.50 

Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 
Complete Home, The. Clara E. 

Laughlin 1.25 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 
Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 



1.00 

1.50 
1.80 

1.80 
.50 
.50 
.50 

1.00 
1.00 

.75 
.75 

1.00 

1.00 

.75 



Cost of Food. Richards $1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards l.OO 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Thompson 1.00 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50 

Domestic Art in Woman's Education. 

Cooley 1.25 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon . . 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mallock 1.00 

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid 

to Cooking. Robertson 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Electric Cooking, Heating and Clean- 
ing. Lancaster 1.50 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00 
Encyclopedia of Foods & Beverages. 10.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. 

Learned 1.35 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50 

Euthenics. Richards 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00 
First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.60 

Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry 

Thompson 1.35 

Food & Flavor. Finck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.10 

Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00 
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and 

Ushir 1.00 

Food & Sanitation. Forester and 

Wigley 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 3.50 

Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs 75 

Food in Health and Disease. I. B. 

Yeo, M. D 2.50 



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262 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards SI. 00 

Food Values. Locke 1.25 

Franco-American Cookery Book. De- 

liee 3 50 

Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75 
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook of Home Economics. Flagg .75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D 1.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd .60 
Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Furnishings, Practical and Art- 
istic. Kellogg 1.60 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 1.00 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

House Furnishing and Decoration. 

McClure and Eberlein 1.50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25 
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50 
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30 

Household Textiles. Gibbs.... 1.25 

How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. 

Neil 1.00 

How To Cook for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00 

How To Feed Children. Hogan . . . 1.00 
How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75 

I Go A Marketing. Sowie 1.50 

Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.25 

International Cook Book. Filippini . . 1.00 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. 

Rose 1.10 

Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Like Mother Used to Make. Herrick 1.25 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

A cook's picture book; 200 Illustrations. 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer ... .75 
New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer . 1.60 
New Hostess of Today. Earned 1.50 



New Salads. Mrs. Rorer $ .75 

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1.00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

Planning and Furnishing the House. 

Quinn 1.00 

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 1.80 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50 

Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60 
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily 

A. M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

Allington 1.50 

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary 

D. Chambers 1.00 

Principles cf Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

Lowe Smith 1.50 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads and Sauces. Murray 50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60 

School Feeding. Bryant 1.50 

School Kitchen Text. Lincoln 60 

Selection and Preparation of Food. 

Brevier and Meter 75 

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50 
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10 
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food 

Products. Bailey 1.60 

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.00 

Table Service. Allen 1.25 

Textiles. Woodman and McGowan. . 2.00 
The New Housekeeping. Christine 

Frederick 1.00 

The Story of Textiles 3.00 

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How To 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. . Charlotte 

Perkins Stetson 1.50 



Library of Home Economics: 



The House 

Household Bacteriology 
Household Hygiene 
Chemistry of the Household 
Principles of Cookery 
Food and Dietetics 



Household Management 
Personal Hygiene 
Home Care of the Sick ' 
Textiles and Clothing 
Study of Child Life 
Care of Children 



May be purchased as a set or singly at $1.50 a volume 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



g^ugg^Btona for OIIjnHtmaH CltftB 

WOULD not many of your friends to whom you will make Christmas Gifts be more 
pleased with a year's subscription to AMERICAN COOKERY than with any 
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The magazine will be of practical use to the recipient 
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To make this gift more complete, we will send the De- 
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mas, iogeihei with a card reading as per cut herewith. 

This card is printed in two colors on heavy stock and 
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Practical and Useful Cookery Books 

Bp MRS. JANET M. HILL, Editor of American Cookery 



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This book is for everyday use. For the most part the recipes are simple and concise, and 
just such as will be of assistance in preparing the regular family meals, but scattered through 
the book are a few recipes for choice dishes that will grace any feast. Each recipe has been 
tried and tried again, and is absolutely right. The directions are complete and easily fol- 
lowed. Using this book you are sure of success every time. 

Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making 1.00 

Modem methods of canning and jelly making ha e simplified and shortened preserving pro- 
cesses. In this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented. 



Practical Cooking and Serving - 



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The recipes in this book have been tested by years of use at the author's home table, and by 
her pupils North and South, East and West. The composition of food is given at the head 
of chapters in which the several foods are specifically described. It holds recipes for both 
inexpensive and elaborate dishes. It is fully and finely illustrated. 

Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing Dish Dainties 1.50 

A new and revised edition of this popular work 

Cooking For Two - - - - 1.50 

Just the book for a small family 

The Up-To-Date Waitress - - - 1.50 

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Over 800 recipes, opening a new field of cookery and furnishing a solution of the problem 
of *' left overs." 



A Year's Subscription 

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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
264 



Menus for Thanksgiving Day 
I. 

TYPICAL THANKSGIVING DINNER 

Bluepoints 

Brownbread Sandwiches 

Olives Celery 

Roast Turkey, Bread Dressing 

Giblet Sauce 

Cranberry Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes, Buttered Onions 

Squash 

Chicken Pie 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 

Pumpkin Pie Apple Pie 

Cheese 
Raisins Assorted Nuts 

Coffee 
Fresh and Dried Fruit 



II. 
THANKSGIVING DINNER WITH NOVELTIES 

Crabflake Cocktail 
Consomme, with Chicken Quennelles 
Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing 
Giblet Sauce 
Baked Onions Stuffed with Nuts 
Squash au Gratin 
Potato Croquettes 
Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce . 
Cranberry Frappe 
Cannelons with Sausage 
Pumpkin Pie Marlboro Tart 
Cheese Boats 
Coffee 
Raisins Maple Bonbons Assorted Nuts 
Fresh Fruit 



HIGH TEA, THANKSGIVING EVENING 
I. 

Scalloped Oysters 

Jellied Philadelphia Relish 

Parker House Rolls 

Cold Roast Chicken with Stuffing 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Cranberry Sauce 

Frozen Apricots 

Lady Fingers 

Coffee 

II. 

Cream of Oyster Soup, Oysterettes 

Olives Celery 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad 

Parker House Rolls 

Charlotte Russe 

Coffee 



A 



merican 



Cook 



ery 



VOL. XXI 



NOVEMBER 



No. 4 



Important Part Flowers Play on the Luncheon Table 



By Jane Vos 



FROM the moment the Japanese 
girl is old enough to toddle alone 
she is taught a trio of accomplish- 
ments, — not the prosaic three R's of 
the Occident, but the triple graces every 
Oriental maiden is supposed to possess: 
how to tie her sash; how to brew a cup 
of tea, and last, but by no means least, 
how to arrange flowers. For the tying 
of her foiur-and-one-half yard sash is an 
exact science, if you please; the making 
of tea that resembles ambrosia an 
inheritance, — an ancestral gift from a 
long line of tea-loving ancestors; while 
the artistic arrangement of flowers is an 
art that must be acquired and followed 
as religiously as the saying of prayers to 
the Great Lord Buddha. 

Were this an article about the three 
graces of the Japanese women, I would 
tell you a story of how I have watched 



them practising the art of tying their 
obis (sashes) of some of the occasions 
when I participated in their tea cere- 
monies, and how I, too, have wandered 
in their gardens, clad like them in quaint, 
gay-tinted garments, plucking flowers 
that were afterwards arranged in the 
most approved fashion for the tokonoma 
or other wall niche. 

In the days of our Great Grand- 
mothers and Aunt Mehitables, they 
used to mass the offerings of Flora in 
hard, compact little bunches, regardless 
of variety, color or sentiment. But our 
sixth sense finally rebelled, and we began 
to arrange flowers more consistently^ 
following the Japanese practise of Hght- 
ness, airiness and grace. Nowadays, 
we, too, have our schools where tea- 
brewing and kindred arts are taught, 
and where the setting of tables, and the 




the:.poppy luncheon table 
267 



268 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



arrangement of flowers for the luncheon 
or dinner service, is part of the cur- 
riculum. 

Down at Southampton, Long Island, 
there is such a school which is attended 
almost exclusively by the society women 
of New York. They make it their busi- 
ness during the summer months when 
at their country places to enroll as pupils 
at this unique school. At the end of the 
season they have a grand floral fete, 
offering prizes for the handsomest tables. 

The pictures shown are good illus- 
trations of the work done by these apt 
pupils. The poppy luncheon table, for 
instance, offers splendid possibilities for 
the massing of a single color, or two or 
three shades. Scarlet and white, or 
pink and white blooms blend wonderfully 
above snowy napery, and deep purple 
blossoms are especially attractive. The 
table shown is covered with one of the 
new luncheon cloths, having a white 
background and a sprinkling of yellow 
tulip poppies on the cloth proper, and 
with a deep border of their green leaves. 
These same "Hunneannias," or Giant 
Yellow poppies are used for decoration. 
White linen shades with yellow embroi- 
dery gives the final touch of Oriental 
splendor. Large clusters of purple 
grapes massed at one end with their 



leaves and tendrils, and richly colored 
peaches mounted in a doily of leaves on 
a receptacle at the other end, harmonize 
exquisitely with the vivid coloring of 
the poppies, softening their effect. 

An attractive table, beautiful in its 
simplicity is spread with crocheted 
doilies, the large oblong held in place 
in the center by six white china can- 
delabra, — one at each corner, and one 
on either side of the center. Pure white 
china dishes to match the candelabra, 
carry out the dazzling white effect. 
Individual white china flower holders at 
each plate, with a center vase to match, 
hold zinnias, their strong coloring 
relieving the otherwise dead white crea- 
tion. 

Blue Delphiniums and blue Aquelegia 
form the decoration of the next table. 

Nothing could be simpler than the 
luncheon set pictured. The center doily, 
to be sure, has a design that appears to 
be intricate, but it is simple nevertheless, 
and any woman handy with crochet or 
knitting needles can easily acquire its 
counterpart, by utilizing odd moments 
of her time. Number 10 Dexter cotton 
works up rapidly. The plate doilies 
are as easy to make as crocheted wash 
cloths, as the center is merely a double 
crochet stitch with a double crochet 



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FIRST PRIZE LUNCHEON TABLE 



FLOWERS ON THE LUNCHEON TABLE 



269 




A PEASANT TABLE, SIMPLE TO COPY 



border. The napkins, too, have a double 
crochet border. Any needlework maga- 
zine gives instructions for the making of 
these luncheon sets, which are so explicit 
that they are easy to follow. 

Even drawn scrim-cloth makes a 
simple, inexpensive luncheon set. One 
width of the wide material will suffice, or 
if two widths are preferred they may be 
joined with a double crochet stitch 
which resembles an insertion. 

The * 'Peasant Table" is always in 
favor for luncheons, especially informal 
affairs. The one pictured has a long 
runner of white linen decorated with a 
crochet insertion and finished with a 
crochet edge. A brass receptacle in 
the center contains a flower holder in 
which tall spikes of zinnias appear to be 
growing in a natural clump. Four plain 
brass candlesticks frame the floral 
centerpiece. A brass bowl at each end 
flanks the candlestick, and it contains a 
floating pool of zinnia leaves and blos- 
soms. Individual blue and white flower 
holders to match the blue and white 
dishes, contain zinnias also. Crochet 
doilies are used at the plates instead of 
linen, to relieve the plainness of the 
runner. A variation of this table may 
have a center decoration of Nicotiana 
(tobacco plant) blossoms, thus carrying 
out the peasant idea. 



A Japanese table, exquisitely dainty 
and unpretentious, is that decorated with 
day lilies. It is laid with a snowy 
crash runner, and has crash plate doilies. 
The shallow white center flower bowl 
contains four claw feet holders, and from 
these tall spikes of the white lilies rear 
their fragile heads above their own 
bloom. Note the arrangement at the 
base, and observe how the lily leaves 
are clustered to form pads, thus accen- 
tuating the green and white effect against 
the snowy background. 

A white marble statue of Buddha at 
each end of the center receptacle under 
the shelter of a tall lily bloom, reminds 
one of Sir Edwin Arnold's lines to the 
Great Lord Buddha: 

"The dew is on the lotus. 
Rise great Sun!" 

Blue and white Canton dishes add the 
flnal note of color to this dainty luncheon 
table. A variation that will appeal to 
the lover of Fleur-de-lis is the iris deco- 
ration, the erect spikes of purple bloom 
rising amidst the green foliage in mar- 
vellously natural plants. It takes the 
writer back in memory to Japan in Iris 
time, when for many square miles one 
sees nothing but flelds of purple fleur-de- 
lis against the vivid emerald landscape. 

In striking contrast to the foregoing 
is the rather formal Italian table, impres- 



270 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sively beautiful in its dignified arrange- 
ment. The enclosed garden effect if of 
white marble would cost a small fortune. 
White pine was, therefore substituted 
with good result, painting and enamelling 
until the enclosure had every appearance 
of marble. The tiny fountain in the 
center is of white china, and on the edges 
snowy china carrier pigeons disport 
themselves in plastico as if ready for 
flight. Blue ageratum is massed against 
the railing, and around the fountain in 
natural effect. Four Dresden candel- 
abra with crocheted shades to match the 
luncheon set, flank each corner of the 
garden. Note the initials of the hostess 
crocheted in the lace design, under her 
crocheted coat-of-arms. 

A prize luncheon table of this year's 
vintage reminds one of an exquisite 
garden in which butterflies are flitting 
hither and thither. The cloth has a 
snowy center with a border of Brazilian 
butterflies in iridescent colorings. The 
center flower arrangement is one of the 
handsomest shown. Orange-red spotted 
with black ''Tigrinum" (single tiger- 
lilies) and *'Salpiglossis" (painted tongue) 
are massed naturally at one side of the 
shallow glass receptacle, while dainty, 
modest pansy blooms on their own 
transplanted roots and stems, smile 
upward at their more stately sisters 
from the other side of the bowl. 

Slen dor-stemmed glass vases, tall and 



I 



dignified, hold a single "Aquilegia" 
(columbine). Gay-colored Majolica 
plates are in harmony with the vivid 
blossoms, their wonderful shades giving 
rainbow glints to the table. 

For a more formal luncheon there is a 
table spread with a Cathedral lace cloth. 
The two tall center candelabra are of 
carved wood, and in and out of these a 
wild clematis vine twines and inter- 
twines, finding its way across the center- 
piece of roses and pansies, and base of 
purple damsom plums to the individual 
flower holders containing roses and 
pansies also. 

The woman who feels that these 
decorations are beyond her means, owing 
to her old china and napery, need not 
despair. There is a great art in knowing 
how to make use of materials at hand. 
More than one china closet has lovely 
odd pieces of Wedge wood. Majolica 
and Canton plaques hidden away, for 
fear of wear and tear. Surely these 
may see the light of day, on occasions, 
at least, and they will be just the thing 
for center table decorations. I am sure 
that Great Aunt Betsey or Grand- 
mother will feel complimented if you 
will bring out their heirlooms occasion- 
ally and put them to practical use. 

A few yards of inexpensive material, 
scrim or otherwise; or a spool or two of 
Dexter cotton will evolve into a hand- 
some luncheon set under your nimble 




ITALIAN TABLE, HOME MADE 



AUTUMN DAYS 



271 



.M;H 


; ^ i 


.¥ V - 


■2* 






i^Mft- III 





JAPANESE TABLE, DECORATION OF DAY LILIES 



fingers, and what you lack in china you 
can make up with your floral decorations. 
It is simply a case of knowing how, and 



then applying the knowledge instead of 
hoarding it along with the heirlooms of 
Great Aunt Betsey. 



Autumn Days 



Summer days are pleasure days 

Everybody knows, 
Summer days are treasure days, 

Bloom of pink and rose. 
Summer days were golden days, 

Every grac e possessed ; 
But the dream embolden days — 

Autumn days are best. 

Winter days are thrilling days, 

Everyone has said. 
Snow and tempest filling ways 

Where our feet must tread. 
Winter days are blessing days, 

Follow we its quest: 
But^the dear caressing days. 

Autumn days are best. 

L. M. Thorntoyi. 




CENTERPIECE OF FRUITS 



Pie and Patriotism 

A True Story of a Thanksgiving Celebration 

By Myra C. Ousley 



BY the Constitution of the United 
States every American is entitled 
to the pursuit of happiness. 
Perhaps few of us reaHze to what extent 
an American's achievement of happiness 
depends upon rocking-chairs and Ivory 
soap and pie, until we have been trans- 
planted to a soil where these things do 
not grow. My awakening to the fact 
came during my residence in Berlin, in 
the good old days of peace in Europe. 

Well do I remember my great joy upon 
hearing of a benevolent merchant on 
Leipsiger Strasse who kindly dispensed 
Ivory soap to American ladies for the 
stim of twenty-five cents per cake. 
But no such happy solution to the lack 
of pie or rocking-chairs ever presented 
itself. One may in time become accus- 
tomed to a life devoid of rocking-chairs, 
but pie — well that is quite a different 
matter. 

It was after four months of pieless 
existence that three of us women from 
Uncle Sam's United States made a 
patriotic vow that we would celebrate 
Thanksgiving Day with a real American 
Thanksgiving dinner. We had been 
accustomed since childhood to offering 
up our thanks on this day to the accom- 



paniment of roast turkey and pumpkin 
pie. And, though these auxiliaries are 
not prescribed in the Book of Common 
Prayer, they seemed to us none the less 
essential to a true Thanksgiving atmos- 
phere. The planning of our menu was, 
therefore, a very simple and unanimous 
affair. It was moved, seconded, and 
carried that we must have turkey and 
ptimpkin pie, the remaining constituents 
of the feast being a matter of com- 
parative indifference. 

While our good husbands, closeted in 
the laboratories of Geheimrath Professors y 
were busy inspecting microbial land- 
scapes, we, who were called Frau Doktor, 
sallied forth to beard the ober- Kellner 
in his den and endeavor to convince him 
that, upon some occasions, turkey is 
superior to goose, and pumpkin pie more 
excellent than bread and cheese. 

Now the ober-Kellner, or head waiter, 
in a German hotel is a personage of 
much consequence and dignity, and is 
frequently possessed of a firmness of 
character not inferior to that of the 
immortal Miu-dstone. In one large 
hotel, which catered especially to patrons 
from "Dollar Land/' our combined 
powers of persuasion failed utterly to 



272 



PIE AND PATRIOTISM 



273 



move the stony-hearted ober. He 
haughtily informed us that never in the 
history of the hotel had turkey been 
served; and positively refused to be a 
party to so serious a departure from the 
traditions of his hostelry! This was 
truly a cruel blow both to turkey and to 
patriotism. 

At the restaurant where the largest 
amount of goose, sausage, and beer were 
daily converted into human tissue, we 
met with little better success. While 
turkey was not considered wholly beyond 
the pale, pie was not to be thought of, 
since no one connected with the estab- 
lishment had ever seen or heard of one. 

Two or three calls at other hotels 
and cafes served to convince us that the 
proverbial looking for a needle in a 
hay-stack would be more productive of 
results than hunting for pie in Berlin. 
In fact our coveted pie seemed fast 
deteriorating into a mere visionary and' 
inedible thing. 

At last, with our hopes in our boots, 
we made bold to seek a private interview 
.with an ober-Kellner of the Rheingold. 
At that time the Rheingold was the 
most beautiful restaurant in all Berlin. 
Besides the magnificent Kaiser Saal 
where one paid for wine and partook of 
music free, there were a number of 
smaller rooms, so delightfully artistic 
that even the slenderest meal seemed 
transformed into a feast. But most 
wonderful of all the varied marvels of 
the Rheingold was an ober-Kellner who 
had actually seen a pie\ At one period 
of his career he had spent three years 
in New York City; and, mingled with 
the memories of that metropolis, was a 
dim recollection of pies. "A pie is 
round," he said, "and has two crusts — 
a top crust and a bottom crust." Now 
this seemed to us a most satisfactory 
definition of, at least, the outward and 
visible form of a pie. And, when he 
optimistically declared his ability to 
explain the intricacies of a pie's anatomy 
to the chef, we were overjoyed. In fact 
our happiness was not perceptibly dimin- 



ished by the necessity of substituting 
apple pie for the pumpkin pie of our 
dreams. As the Rheingold harbored 
no antipathy toward the serving of our 
national bird, the remainder of the 
dinner was soon agreed upon, and we 
returned home to report the triumph of 
American dietary ideals. 

The evening of the feast arrived on 
scheduled time. And, after laborious 
excavations of the depths of our several 
trunks, we emerged, resplendent in long 
neglected finery, and blissfully wended 
our pie ward way. 

We dined in the splendid Kaiser Saal. 
Ravishing music strove for our attention 
against fearful odds; for the dinner was 
wonderful! To be sure we were a trifle 
disappointed that the turkey was already 
carved — a somewhat superfluous pro- 
ceeding, since our party boasted no 
fewer than three perfectly good surgeons ! 
However, the untimely mutilation of 
the bird was soon forgotten in the gastric 
thrills which attended the eating of it. 

Being aware of the importance 
attached by us to having turkey on our 
bill of fare, the kind ober, in his great 
desire to please us, had ordered our butter 
served in individual turkey moulds. 
This bit of thoughtfulness quite touched 
our hearts. 

Besides turkey our dinner included all 
of the trimmings essential to a perfectly 
correct Thanksgiving feast. There were 
delicious German cranberries, called 
Preisselheere, the taste of which can 
best be described as combining the 
flavor of currants with that of our cran- 
berries. I cannot even think of these 
without smashing the tenth command- 
ment. And, during my stay in Berlin, 
their only rival in my affections was the 
Beethoven String Quartette. Why does 
not some botanically inclined gentleman 
introduce the Preisselheere into these 
United States and make our country a 
better place to live in ? 

At last, the long dreamed of, long 
longed for moment arrived when the 
pie was ushered into our midst with 



274 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



proper ceremony. Sad to relate, there 
was not the awed silence befitting so 
momentous an occasion, but, instead, a 
hearty peal of laughter! The ober's 
seemingly perspicuous definition of an 
apple pie had evidently lost its way 
somewhere in the multiple convolutions 
of the culinary brain of the chef, and the 
result was — an entirely original cre- 
ation, indisputably unique in the annals 
of cookery! To be sure it was round, 
as the ober had said, and had two crusts 

— one adorning the bottom and the 
other the top — and the filling was 
composed mainly of cooked apples. 
But when we looked at it, and again 
when we tasted it, we realized as never 
before the utter incapacity of language 

— even the English language to describe 
a real American apple pie. 

This concoction was perhaps sixteen 
inches in diameter, and not less than 
four inches deep. The apples, by 
some culinary process, had been rendered 
totally devoid of any juice whatsoever; 
and a mixture of raisins, nuts, and a 
few other things, had been added as a 
finishing touch to the disguise. It was, 
I must admit, superlatively palatable. 
No manner of fault could be found with 
it, except that it could never pass muster 
among Americans as an apple pie. And 
yet, strange to say, we were not, I think, 



greatly disappointed; for, by that time, 
we had each of us reached a stage of 
gratification more propitious to the 
enjoyment of a joke than a pie. 

But, alas, the feelings of our poor ober 
were greatly damaged by the hilarity 
which greeted the pie that was to have 
been like the pies that bloom in New 
York. After we arose from the table he 
assured us ladies in all seriousness that 
he had faithfully tried to initiate the 
cook into the mysteries of American pie, 
but, for some reason, the latter "didn't 
understand." We felt very sorry for 
the internal injury we had unwittingly 
caused our good friend the ober, and 
immediately set about to administer 
first aid. Not having any Red Cross 
bandages at hand, we tried the healing 
effect of coins applied to the palm of 
the hand, and, in addition, poured 
soothing words into his ear. But I 
never felt quite sure that our remedies 
were efficacious. 

In spite of its pieless aspect, our 
Thanksgiving celebration was hailed a 
complete and unqualified success. And, 
considering the colossal difficulties in 
the path of its achievement, and the 
courage and endurance displayed in 
overcoming them, it undoubtedly 
deserves to go down in history as an 
act of heroic patriotism. 



Drifting 



The more common secret of want of 
success in life is a tendency to let 
things drift. It is not so much the 
missing one opportunity, or the com- 
mitting one blunder, as the lavish 
waste of all the forces — opportunities 
which in various shapes come within 
the grasp. It is the slovenliness of men 
and women which for the most part 
makes their lives so unsatisfactory. 



They do not sit at the loom with keen 
eye and deft fingers; but they work 
listlessly, and without a sedulous care 
to piece together as they best may the 
broken threads. We are apt to give up 
work too soon, to suppose that a single 
breakage has ruined the cloth. The 
men who get on in the world are not 
daunted by one nor a thousand break- 
ages. — John M or ley. 



Ye Beefsteak House 

By Helen Forrest 



NOBODY wants my book, nobody 
wants anything I write !" Jim 
Nelson's brown eyes were quite 
black with wrath and wounded feeling 
as he hurled the disheartening words 
at his fiancee by way of greeting. 

The girl stopped short in her progress 
across the wainscoted parlor where he 
was waiting for her, and her grey eyes 
grew pathetic and the soft color faded 
from her cheeks. She smiled bravely 
on him and took from his hands the - 
often rejected manuscript, as if its 
presence were accountable for the cloud 
over them, and pushed him gently into 
his favorite chair. 

It was to have been their way out, this 
despised book, the sign manual of Jim's 
ability as an author, its success his proof 
that his pen could support his wife to be, 
his sweet Betty, an orphan, who w^as 
tolerated in her aunt's home. 

"You haven't half tried to place your 
book, you impatient boy!" she declared 
reassuringly, "you know David Harum 
was rejected by at least twenty-five 
publishers before it was finally taken and 
made its whirlwind success." 

"I'll break that record," he declared 
grimly, "only my book won't be taken 
in the end, Betty;" he rose to his feet. 
"I've held you for five years to a promise 
I had no right to ask of you until I was 
able to take care of you! While I have 
the courage," here his voice broke, "I 
offer you your freedom." 

"And I won't take it, "her voice was 
more decided than his, "I'll wait for you 
until you are ready for me, but let me 
borrow some of the courage you spoke 
of just now and tell you a plan I haven't 
dared speak of to you. Drop all idea 
of literary work for the present," she 
hurried on, in spite of his reproachful 
look, "and give a few years just to earn- 
ing money. Let us both work together. 



and later in life, when we have something 
to live on, you can write your books." 

"Betty," he pulled her down to the 
arm of his chair and spoke with obvious 
patience, "please remember that I am 
twenty-eight years old, that all my 
training, college and otherwise, has been 
toward a literary life. How can I earn 
money except by my pen, sorry hope 
that it is ? As for you, dear child, what 
in the world could you do!" 

"Speak for 3^oiu:self, John," she quoted 
gaily, "and tell me what you know how 
to do." 

Her betrothed reached to the table 
behind her, seized the unlucky manu- 
script and flung it with steady aim into 
^ distant waste basket. "Beside my 
well-known literary ability I have a 
crowning gift made perfect through 
much camping and life in bachelor 
quarters — one gift and one only, so far 
as I can think. Beyond the dreams of 
avarice or appetite, I can broil a beef- 
steak." 

"And on that broiled beefsteak," she 
declared with rising solemnity, "we 
build owe home. It is our way out." 

"I didn't suppose there was a laugh 
left in me today," began John Nelson, 
but the girl broke in — 

"You mustn't laugh, your work is 
hard but so is my waiting, and I think I 
see a way in which we both can earn, 
have a home while we are earning and 
get some money ahead for our country 
home and your days for writing. Way 
down town where the big offices are 
let us have a place for lunches. Your 
beefsteak idea reminded me of what I've 
often heard Uncle say, that a decent 
beefsteak is what most men want for 
lunch and is just what they. can't get, 
unless they travel uptown for it. That's 
where you come in, broiling that steak. 
The one thing I know how to do is to 



275 



276 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cook, so my share shall be home-made 
things like bread and cake." 

*'So be it," said the man of books, 
"I follow on." 

After that day of decision events fol- 
lowed rapidly. There was a quiet 
wedding in the chantry of a big church 
where Betty was given away by a highly 
unbelieving uncle who furnished for 
them a little flat up town ; then the lease 
of three rooms in the heart of the busi- 
ness district, among the tall buildings, 
was put through. Outside these rooms 
a new sign challenged the attention of 
the passer-by: "Ye Beefsteak House." 
Within, six sturdy little tables with 
grass mats, fresh unchipped china and 
steel-bladed knives, added to the cus- 
tomary silver, met the intending cus- 
tomer. A college boy from the near-by 
University was at first the only waiter. 
At half past nine each morning, Jim and 
Betty entered their place of business, 
having previously done their marketing, 
choosing most critically the promising 
cuts of meat. Their smart street cloth- 
ing was then exchanged for the linen of 
labor, and work hummed merrily in 
preparation for luncheon, which was 
served from eleven to three. No vain 
boast was Jim's as to his prowess as a 
broiler of beefsteak, cooked to order 
over a charcoal fire, fresh from the 
gridiron, brown, hot and juicy and 
done to a turn, the work of his hands 
became known throughout the business 
sections of the old city. The six tables 
were soon increased to twelve, a second 
dining-room was claimed from the 
ancient building in which they had 
located, a dwelling house left of a 
century before. Aunt Sally, an old 
colored servant, once employed by 
Betty's mother, was annexed as potato 
cook, "French fried," hash-browned, 
creamed or baked, and a general clearing 
up at the end of the day was also her 
share in the work. 

"Broiled meat and broiled meat only, 
hang it all Betty, 1 can't broil and fry, 
roast and fricasee in answer to the 



popular request even if the dollars are 
piling up," and the chef turned a glowing 
face from his charcoal fire to the white 
linen pastry cook. 

"We'll stick to broiled things, they're 
more correct," Betty responded cheer- 
fully; "beefsteak, lamb chops, chicken, 
ham and kidneys, that's what they all 
seem to want. Thank goodness I've 
learned to make wonderful pie; I never 
realized New York was in the great pie- 
belt until I was called upon to meet the 
universal demand." 

Betty had emerged triumphantly from 
a course in pie-making, joining an 
evening Domestic Science Class, and pies 
of various sorts, fresh baked each morn- 
ing, were added to her regular bread, 
rolls and cake. 

Their customers were chiefly men, 
many regulars developed among them, 
but now and then a wife or a sweetheart 
fluttered into the place, "you are always 
talking about", departing wondering 
whether that fascinating flavor of meat 
was due to Worcestershire or to some 
unknown condiment. They were ready, 
too, to substantiate the masculine belief 
that all the bread and pastry really was 
home-made. 

At the end of the first year of business 
the entire first fioor of the old house was 
called into service, monogrammed china 
was on the tables, a wood brown color 
scheme, reflected from walls and hang- 
ings, rested the eye. A cashier became 
necessary and the original college boy 
waiter supervised the added force of 
students who, coming in relays, were 
glad to earn their dinner as the price of 
serving others. Most eloquent of all, 
a gratifying bank account spoke of suc- 
cess. Seated at their seven o'clock 
dinner in an up town flat, where a com- 
petent maid prepared and served their 
meals, the business partners looked 
their venture and their future in the 
face. 

"Five years of it, Jim," Betty spoke 
wistfully, "could you spare it from your 
books? For then we could buy that 



YE BEEFSTEAK HOUSE 



277 



little place in the country and," loyally, 
"live on your writing." 

Her husband shook his head scep- 
tically, "Let go this solid fact for vague 
hopes? Honestly, Betty, I trust my 
proven hands more than my hoped-in 
brain. If you can stand it, I say five 
years or ten, more if necessary." He 
broke off laughingly, "Do you know 
what has been the hit of this week at 
the house, shaking even the throne of 
my beefsteak? Why Aunt Sally's hash, 
wherein the odds and ends of all the 
broils mingle happily and economically 
with the humble potato." 

"I know it," Betty laughed merrily, 
"and don't forget that the corn bread I 
served with it yesterday made such a 
hit that I shall bake three times the 
quantity today. The cooking must 
stay in three pairs of hands — yours, 
Aunt Sally's and mine. Now we live on 
a safe basis, our time is our own from 
four in the afternoon until our eight 
thirty marketing the next morning; let 
us be content." 

One Autumn morning of their second 
year of "frenzied finance", as Jim 
termed "their joint business career, the 
master broiler stopped abruptly in his 
exit from the Washington Market, 
thereby endangering the basket of a 
daughter of Erin who was behind him. 
He lifted his hat apologetically in answer 
to her indignant, "An' will ye mind yer 
step!" 

Jim breathed deeply the fish-laden 
air and turned to his puzzled wife. 

"Do you know I'm going to put that 
old fellow of ours in a skit, just a short 
story?" he pointed to a distant stall 
they often patronized "You know 
what he talks to us; well the local color 
and all is rather inspiring. Just on the 
side," he said jestingly, "my beefsteak 
shan't suffer." 



"Oh, Jim," pleaded his wife almost 
pathetically, "go on with your idea; 
Aunt Sally and I will manage today. 
Do you go home and write, that is 
your life work, this venture of ours is 
only a side issue." 

But he put her smilingly aside, 
"Remember the five years of famine 
while I wrote, and the tv/o years of home 
and plenty while we've broiled. No, 
Betty, safety first and writing later." 

"What do you think!" he said, as he 
joined her at dinner time a few weeks 
later, fresh from the office of a powerful 
editor. "Betty, he said, 'Now you're 
talking, this down-town stuff of yours 
is alive, a new vein and we'll take all 
you can give us of it'." 

She clung to him with tears of happi- 
ness, "And we'll pension old John and 
take him out of the market, he will be 
the comer stone of our fortune." 

On the third anniversary of its begin- 
ning, "Ye Beefsteak House" changed 
chefs, Jim reluctantly agreeing to the 
obvious fact that he could not broil by 
day and write by night and do justice 
to either occupation. 

Priding himself on his marketing 
abilities and wisely imbibing the air of 
his latest setting for his stories, he con- 
tinued to select the meat. Six months 
later Betty handed over the pastry 
table to Aunt Sally's carefully trained 
niece, for Betty must be at home to 
make ready for the coming of little Jim. 
Aunt Sally alone stood firm and prepared 
her delicious potatoes, "French fried" 
hash-browned, creamed or baked. 

"Some day we'll sell out with a big 
bonus for good will, as the phrase goes!" 
said Jim, "and cease even this remote 
supervision, but my muse is young and 
as yet I am slow to deprive her of the 
solid benefits of broiled beefsteak." 




What Does Your Face Say ? 

By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



CALMLY and dispassionately did 
you ever take an old photograph 
of yourself, portraying the mo- 
bility or sunniness of youth, and lay it 
side by side with your likeness of today 
to see what the years have written there ? 
Without failure you will find the deeply 
graven answer. It may make you feel 
self-congratulatory or it may cause you 
to flash an analytical X-ray on your 
character to find the causes back of such 
depreciatory evidence. 

Facial expression always registers two 
things. It tells what an individual has 
done with his heritage and also v/hat life 
has done to him. It not only shows the 
altars of our desires but what we have 
laid on them. 

This last summer I sat on the upper 
deck of one of the steamers of the 
Eastern Steamship Company and inter- 
ested myself with reading the facial 
bulletins of surrounding passengers. 
Here I found written ambition, listless- 
ness, faultfinding, serenity, health, dissi- 
pation, suUenness, and then, like a ray 
of sunshine, my attention was focused 
by a woman whose whole countenance 
spelled pleasantness. It was not the 
untried gayety of youth, for she was past 
the meridian of life. Certain lines in the 
face and the silver hair were eloquent of 
lessons, but the light of enjoyment still 
danced in the fine dark eyes, and around 
the mouth still played the bewitching 
evidences of humor. Simultaneously, 
those lines of John Kendrick Bangs' 
entitled "The Winner," came to mind. 

"I'm but the Guest of Life, 
Who wins the best of Life, 
By joying in the quest of Life." 

How many of us, I reflected, are 
really joying as we go along? Alto- 
gether too many of us suffer with the 
delusion that the land of joying lies 
somewhere in the luring future. We 



say we shall arrive when the purse grows 
fatter; perchance, after travel in many 
lands,, or when the more palatial home 
looms in sight. But too late we discover 
that the beckoning enchantment was 
merely a mental mirage and the joy of 
living lies far off from such material 
attainments. 

It is only the wealth of the heart that 
counts, after all. And only one's atti- 
tude towards life that makes or bank- 
rupts the riches of it. 

The person who harbors love, a desire 
at all times to be helpful and, day in 
and day out, holds magnanimous thought 
towards others, is laying up the true and 
lasting treasures. Such gold of good 
intent circulates through a person's 
whole being, and literally shows its face 
value. It illumines the countenance as 
nothing else can, and those of us who 
occasionally bask in the warmth of such 
kindliness, believe unqualifiedly that 
"a smile is indeed the coat of arms of 
the Soul." And who are the wealthy- 
hearted, the towering Carnegies in this 
respect? We had one such in New 
England's metropolis in the person of 
little Louis Gold, a crippled newsie and 
plucky little optimist, who always man- 
aged to hobble on the sunny side of life. 
Handicapped from birth by the heaviest 
odds of fortune, he was always a worker, 
a helper, a booster of lightheartedness, 
and the possessor of what was called 
"the sweetest smile in Boston." 

That was why early in Maytime, when 
he was borne to rest, that a cortege of 
over 1,500 people wound its tortuous 
course through the streets of Boston, 
why the flags on all the buildings of 
Newspaper Row were at half mast, and 
why representatives from every news- 
paper in the city were found to be among 
those numbered at the memorial sei;vice. 
His face was truly an index to all of the 



278 



WHAT DOES YOUR FACE SAY 



279 



several phases of his sterling character. 
What does your face say? Is it a 
stronger, nobler, sweeter, more chari- 
table, kinder face than you carried ten 
years ago ? Or is it colder, sterner, more 
cruel or weaker? If so, your thoughts 
require Burbanking. You have urgent 
need of one grand weedingfest in your 
own mind to toss out some of the objec- 
tionable growths and to graft what is 
worth preserving with that which is 
more promising. 

If women would only learn that beauty 
is as deep as human nature, they would 
soon cease a lot of nonsensical experi- 
menting with lotions and powders. 
There is no cosmetic to eradicate the 
lines of a peevish temperament, the 
chronic frownings of nagging and fault- 
finding. The remedy lies in B urbanking 
the disposition, and it can be done. 

We are not only ''architects of fate," 
but of our faces also. 

Beauty is mental and moral as well as 
~ physical and its call for sustenance is 
necessarily a three-fold demand. Thus, 
the quality of thought, which the mind 
feeds upon is of paramount importance. 
Sooner or later it publishes telltale 
tidings. 

Kind thoughts, cheerfulness, and the 
smiling habit are an unsurpassable trio 
of beauty-builders. I might have said 
body-builders for they make as distinctly 
for health as for personal attractiveness. 
Of all the unrecorded benefactors of 
humanity, to my mind, the chiefest is 
the man who first laughed. Somewhere 
back in the shadowy jungle of the Past 
rang this rollicking peal of laughter that 
sowed merriment in the world's garden 
of emiotions. What was the joke all 
about, I wonder? Perhaps his lordship 
was trying the prankish stunt of walking 
on his hind legs, or pelting his spouse 
with cocoanuts. But he laughed the 
first blessed "ha! ha!" of all humanity. 
And in so doing happified posterity till 
man is now known as "the laughing 
animal." 

But how many there are who seem to 



have forgotten their prerogative! How 
many vinegar- visaged people one chances 
to see in the course of a day — the 
mournful Esaus that have evidently 
yielded up their birthright of joyou^ness 
for a mess of grouches! 

What does you face say? Have the 
Dismalites or the Cheerites taken your 
number ? Are you daily despatching the 
interests of business and social asso- 
ciates with a smile, or are you just 
flagging a lot of worthwhile energy with 
a grouch signal? 

What does your face say? Does it 
fortify with the tonic qualities of an 
advancing spirit, or does it flaunt a 
fresh grievance in the eyes of men? Is 
' it an advertisement of triumph or a 
travelling acknowledgment of defeat? 

Goethe says of Mephistopheles : "It 
is written on his brow, he never loved 
a human soul." Yes, thanks, too, to the 
stories that men and women write on 
their faces, a good deal of unworthiness 
is walking around plainly labeled. No 
need is there for the man with the 
grasping, hard, cold, calculating expres- 
sion to tell us that he has long been a 
devotee of the God of Avarice; no need 
for the gross, repellent, loose-lipped 
individual to reveal further his service 
to Sensuality, no need for the bearer of 
a blear-eyed, bloated countenance to 
point to the altar of his desire nor the 
greedy flame that has licked up the cost- 
liness of his sacrifice. 

When Titian, one of the world's 
greatest artists, was a youth of twenty 
he fell in love with a beautiful girl. 
That is, outwardly she was very attrac- 
tive, but hidden beneath the pink and 
white surface of her girlish charms 
slumbered the instincts of treachery. 
One day she deserted her lover and 
married a captain of dragoons. Titian 
was disconsolate, though in time he 
managed to find solace in his art. 

The years rolled by, and one mem- 
orable morning when the famous artist 
was seventy-five he happened to be 
passing a church where in front crouched 



280 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



a ragged, dirty, disheveled old woman 
whose face was lined with the lines of 
hate and disappointment. 

Titian stopped and looked at her; 
something in her very repulsiveness 
seemed to fascinate him. Instantly he 
was seized with the desire to make a 
portrait of her, to picture the depth of 
degradation to which a human being 
could fall. "I shall paint her and call 
the picture 'Falsehood,' " he said. 

Tossing her a coin he set up his easel 
and began to paint. The old crone eyed 
him narrowly. Presently, she broke 
the silence in high raucous appeal, 
"Ah, Titian, don't you remember? You 
loved me once!" 

Something in her words took him back 
over fifty years to the promise-land of 
youth, and he shuddered as he recalled 
her. 



Titian lived to be one hundred. Yet 
he was handsome and commanding in 
presence beyond his ninetieth year. 
His life had early been dedicated to 
service, beauty and high endeavor. 
Such days of faithfulness to lofty ideals 
and purposeful pursuits never fail to 
write their inspiring message so that 
''he who runs may read." 

Now what of these little chisels of 
thought that are daily registering the 
depths and heights of human motives? 
What are they limning on your face and 
mine? 

Here at the portals of the new year, 
let us scrutinize the unfinished story of 
yesterday and compare it with today's 
developments, to find out. It may end 
in a friendlier allegiance with some of the 
sunnier factions of life and a countenance 
that radiates their helpfulness. 



Talks to a Normal Class 



By Mary D. Chambers 

Atithor of " Principles of Food Pi'eparation ' 



IN some city school systems every 
day's lesson is planned for the 
teacher, and the boast is made that 
every child in every school in each grade 
at every hour is doing the same thing. 
In other school systems the ground to be 
covered each month or quarter is set 
before the teacher, and no questions 
are asked so long as the assigned sub- 
jects are studied. For a teacher of 
originality and experience this is a more 
delightful way to work, but it calls for 
a much higher degree of executive 
ability, initiative, resourcefulness — and 
above all, for much more judgment 
and experience than a young teacher can 
always be counted on to possess. Never- 
theless, since it is the more difficult, 
as well as the more excellent way, we 



shall in today's discussion of the lesson 
assume that the teacher is given a free 
hand. - 

There is one thing the cooking- 
teacher may take for granted when she 
meets her class for the first time — that 
is, that they will come to her predisposed 
to be interested in what they are going 
to learn. She will not need, as she 
might if she were a teacher of Ele- 
mentary Algebra, to arouse and stimu- 
late an interest in the outcome of 
(x — 2y) (x + 4y), but she will need 
to see to it that she does not inhibit or 
stifle or kill the interest her children 
already have — the pleased anticipation 
with which they enter her room. I 
have known teachers who made a 
lesson in scouring and dusting the first 



TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS 



281 



in a course In Cookery! I have known 
others who had the children make 
starch paste for another class to bind their 
note-hooks with. This is what you 
might call altruism with a vengeance. 
Poor children! and poor, poor teachers! 

In your first lesson, even if you are 
determined they shall dust , or scour, 
remember that fruits and vegetables 
can be steamed or baked while cleaning 
is being done, or small cups of cocoa 
can be made in newly scoured sauce- 
pans for refreshment before the class 
is dismissed. 

The practical preparation for your 
lesson should be done in a very business- 
like fashion. Do your marketing 
methodically, so as to keep within your- 
appropriation as well as to make things 
easier for yourself. Keep an account 
of every item of supplies used for each 
lesson, the number of pupils in class, 
the total cost, and the cost per cap. 
You are going to learn more about the 
practical end of things during your first 
year of teaching than you did in your 
whole training-^course, but it is quite 
possible you may have to work harder to 
do it. Keep an account of such little 
items as the number of prunes in a 
pound, the number of apples in a peck, 
the weight of a quart of potatoes, the 
volume of a pound of rolled oats. A 
special book, alphabetically arranged, 
with weight, cost, and volume of all 
sorts of food-stuffs, will be a staff to 
lean upon in years to come. 

Your heart may thump real hard when 
your first real class files in on the stroke 
of the bell, and from twenty to thirty 
pair of eyes stare at you appraisingly 
in the cold-blooded and impersonal way 
children have with a new teacher. Be 
sure that your voice is calm, and clear, 
and pleasing when you assign their 
seats. I like to seat my children 
alphabetically. In a large class it is 
much easier to remember the names, 
and the quicker you can tack the right 
name to the right child the sooner will a 
good relation be established between 



you. If you allow them to sit as they 
please, jostle one another, form little 
groups and bands of friendship, the 
result will be that some children will 
be left out in the cold and will feel bad, 
while the dominant spirits in the class, 
having seated themselves their own way, 
will think they can have their own 
way in everything else. But I do not 
like to see a teacher assign seats ar- 
bitrarily. Do you remember when you 
went to kindergarten how the piano 
was made to stand for the voice of 
authority? This kept the children from 
regarding the teacher as the arbitrary 
promulgator of law, for the p;ano was 
the outside law, which all obeyed, and 
which the teacher only called attention 
to. Similarly in seating the children the 
alphabet is the outside law. In dealing 
with adult classes, or in some other 
situations, I would not adhere to this 
method, but a new teacher with a hew 
class may easily strike the right or 
wrong note in this initial act of assigning 
the seats. 

More depends on the first lesson, or on 
the first two or three lessons, than on 
any of the succeeding ones. You must 
show your classes in the beginning: 
(1) what the subject is — the hygienic 
and appetizing preparation of wholesome 
food; (2) what this work demands — 
accuracy, neatness, careful observation, 
correct inference, ability to generalize 
and to apply; (3) where its end-point 
lies — in the home, in the comfort and 
welfare of the family. 

In every lesson you should aim: (1) to 
form good habits, both of doing and 
thinking; (2) to enrich knowledge, to 
send your children out of the room 
knowing something that they did not 
know when they came in; (3) to stimu- 
late self-activity. 

1. To Form Good Habits. Isn't it 
Professor James who said that "all our 
life is a mass of habits?" If I were to 
discuss all of the habits that we teachers 
could help to form in our classes, I 
should not pass this point for a year. 



282 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Habits of accuracy, method, obedience, 
order, thoroughness, subordination, 
altruism, and all the civic virtues can be 
fostered in the cooking-class. I shall 
dwell on only a few of them. 

One of the most important habits to 
foster is that of accurate measurement 
of ingredients. This should be planned 
for as early as possible in the course. 
I would not give a whole lesson on 
measuring, but I would plan to teach the 
different measurements incidental to 
the making of different dishes, and I 
would be very solemn in emphasizing 
the importance of careful measuring 
every time I gave instruction about it. 
It is not always easy to train eager, 
impatient children, who want imme- 
diately to beat things up in bowls or 
stir them round and round in saucepans, 
to measure painstakingly and ac- 
curately, but it can be done. I once 
visited a young teacher's class at its 
fifth or sixth lesson. Instructions for 
making muffins had been given, and the 
teacher came and seated herself opposite 
to me, with her back to the class, while 
she chatted about things in general. 
I kept one whole eye on the children, 
and every single one of them smoothed 
out her tablespoonfuls and divided into 
accurate halves and quarters her tea- 
spoonfuls, as carefully as if Miss B. had 
been at her elbow. Until you know 
your children will do this, whether you 
play policeman or not, you have not 
taught them to measure. But do not 
have them dole out one-sixteenth of a 
salt-spoonful of something or other 
under the delusion that you are training 
them in accuracy when you are only 
training them in waste of time. 
Children appreciate good sense quite as 
much as we do. I am never afraid to 
tell my class that there are times when 
very accurate measurements — for in- 
stance of the non-essentials in a flour 
mixture (see chapters on Batters and 
Doughs, "Principles of Food Prepara- 
tion) — are not absolutely necessary, 
for these condiment al substances, 



flavorings and the like, are largely a 
matter of taste or even of convenience. 

Lose no opportunity to train your 
children in methodical habits. Teach 
them before beginning their work to 
estimate the number and kinds of 
utensils they will need, to work with as 
few as possible — it is the sign of a green 
hand to use all the dishes in the closet — 
and to use their utensils with foresight. 
Children, if left to themselves, will 
thoughtlessly measure ingredients ac- 
cording to the sequence given in the 
recipe, thus for a white sauce they will 
be sure to measure the butter first — 
then the single tablespoon allotted to 
each girl will have to be washed and 
dried before she can measure the flour. 
Similarly, in the lessons on Batters and 
Doughs, I like to teach them to measure 
the wet ingredients in the largest bowl, 
then to add the dry things to the wet, 
instead of the wet to the dry, which 
would involve more difficult dish-wash- 
ing, as well as greater waste of 
material — for part of a good wetting 
of beaten egg and milk will cling to the 
bowl from which it is poured. The 
wetting, too, is usually the measure of 
the amount to be made; for example, 
one cup of wetting is the basal measure 
for a 1-lb. loaf of bread, while the 
volume of flour to be kneaded into this 
will depend on the kind and quality of 
the flour. 

Another good habit to foster is the 
habit of obedience. This is best pro- 
moted by positive, rather than by 
negative commands. Good pedagogues 
tell us that the command, "thou shalt" 
is more forceful — more potent to bring 
about obedience — than "thou shalt 
not" — for almost anyone of origi- 
nality and daring will be stimulated by 
prohibition to do the forbidden thing. 
Curiously enough, it is generally easier 
to frame negative than positive com- 
mands. We are apt to say impulsively: 
"Don't slam the oven door," or "Don't 
let your sauce get lumpy," and this 
impulse has to be consciously inhibited 



HOME-COMING 



283 



by us before we can thoughtfully frame 
the positive command: ''Close the oven 
f door gently," or "Stir your sauce per- 
fectly smooth." The ten commands of 
the Great Lawgiver were nearly all 
negative. The two commands of the 
Great Teacher, on which hang "the 
whole Law and the t^rophets"- are both 
positive. 

The activities of the cooking-class are 
so joy-bringing to children, so full of 
interest and delight, that to form habits 
of good behavior in the individual and 
good discipline in the class should not 
be difficult. But by good discipline I 
do not mean that rigid repression of 
spontaneity, that stony and depressing 
silence enforced in prison shops under 
the old and happily-becoming-obsolete 
penological regime. By discipline I 
mean a free order. Let your children 
feel natural, be natural, and act natur- 
ally, so long as they are courteous, 
kindly, and well-behaved. I do not see 
why talking should be prohibited in a 
cooking-class. I can see that con- 
versation might be incompatible with 
the extraction of cube roots, but liot 
why it should be incompatible with 
cake-making. When a child is interested 
in what she is doing, she is very unlikely 
to talk about anything else, if, indeed, 
she is not too absorbed for speech, so a 
little conversation with her neighbor 



about their work should be a help rather 
than a hindrance. Just as we teachers 
in former times tried to teach cooking 
in the same way as Chemistry (see 
American Cookery for April), so now 
many of us model our class-room 
discipline on that of the teachers of 
mathematics. Cooking is a very 
different thing, and the cooking-room 
should be a delightfully different place. 
There is one time in your lesson, 
however, when your free order may 
easily degenerate into disorder. This is 
dish- washing time. The joys of cooking 
and eating are now over, tongues are 
loosed, restraint is dropped, there is a 
slap-dash-and-hurry attitude, and the 
class goes to pieces. I had a young 
genius in my training-class one year who 
solved the problem in her practice class 
by putting the review questions on the 
lesson during dish- washing time. By 
this method she had order, quietness, 
and — as she remarked — particular de- 
votion to scouring and shining-up on the 
part of the girls who hoped thus to 
escape being questioned. 

This brings me to one of my hobbies, 
that is, the art of questioning. But I 
have exceeded my time — and my 
space — so I must leave this as well as 
the discussion of my second and third 
points for our next meeting. 

(See American Cookery for December) 



The Homecoming 



1 roam the highways over and over] 

For the wisp of a gleam that leads me; 
I trample the dust in the noon-day sun 

And call — but it never heeds me ; 
I follow the gold to the slumbering west 

Where the road and the sky arch play, 
But the wisp of a dream on the border line 

Eludes me — it will not stay. 

For a man may fail to find the trail 
That leads to his heart's desire. 

But on he must through mud and dust 
From dawn to evening fire. 



But who is this in the highway standing. 

She with the eyes that call me? 
I am tired of the road, the sinuous road, 

Her laughing eyes enthrall me. 
I long for the teel of her cooling hand 

On my hair and my throbbing brow; 
Then take my love, O wife of my dreams, 

I would cease my wandering now. 

For we can not fail to find the trail 
That leads to our heart's desire, 

If love as guide with us abide 
From dawn to evening fire. 

Elias Lieherman. 



Starving Humanity 

By A. W. Herr, M. D. 



MAN is a form through which 
a stream of matter flows." 
This matter is composed 
of some fifteen different elements. Com- 
bined, they form hydrocarbons, carbo- 
hydrates, proteids and mineral salts; 
or, in simpler forms, starches, sugars, 
albumins, fats, and mineral salts. 

These mineral salts are found in 
combination as phosphate of iron, phos- 
phate of lime, phosphate of magnesium, 
etc. All of these salts are found in the 
blood, for blood contains material for 
every tissue and cell of the body, and 
furnishes nourishment for every organ. 
Do we supply in our diet these fifteen 
elements in proper proportion and quan- 
tity? 

The factory worker, living on beef, 
beer, and devitalized white bread, 
secures his proportion of proteids and 
starches, and perhaps hydrocarbons, or 
fats, in the form of grease and butter, 
but what about the mineral salts? 
Many workmen are starving themselves 
and families. It is a safe estimate that 
50,000,000 of people in the United 
States are literally suffering the pangs 
and pains of mineral starvation. 

Daily metabolism demands adequate 
material for repair, else disease in some 
form or other will supervene. Brain 
and nerve, muscle and bone, must be 
fed; and the demand is constant and 
unceasing. Not alone material for the 
production of heat and energy, but basic 
material in the form of mineral sub- 
stances must be supplied daily. 

Five or six per cent of the body- weight 
is mineral elements. We supply these 
elements to the body chiefly in the form 
of organic salts. These salts afford no 
energy, yet are found to be indispensable 
to the processes of nutrition; especially 
is this true in the exchange of fluids 
through the membranes of the cells. 



This exchange we call osmosis, and 
osmosis can only take place when two 
or more salts are present; so that the 
ingredients of the fluids on one side of 
the cell membrane should be different 
in chemical composition from those on 
the other side. A German scientist 
found that animals fed on food freed 
from mineral elements died sooner than 
those not fed at all. 

Prof. Jacques Loeb, University of 
Chicago, says that the process of osmosis 
is based on electrolysis going on in 
millions of invisible batteries, by the 
play of electrically charged molecules 
whose negative and positive effects 
depend upon the presence of certain 
mineral salts. Prof. Loeb goes further 
and states that "the chief role of all food 
is not to be digested and burned in the 
muscles and organs, but to supply 
electrical "ions." The heat developed 
is a by-product. The chief action is the 
production of electricity." 

The body is in some sense a dynamo. 
The nerve fibers are electrical wires, 
nerve cells, storage batteries, nerve 
force and electricity, identical. Food 
then, is of value according to the amount 
and kind of electricity afforded. Raw 
food best supplies this electrical vitality 
because of the presence of organic salts. 
Cooked foods supply the least vitality 
because in the process of cooking the 
mineral salts are "freed." The iron, 
the calcium, the potassium return to 
their inorganic state, in which form they 
cannot be utilized by the animal 
economy. 

In boiling potatoes, for example, 
most of the potassium salts are dissolved 
out into the water, and this is usually 
thrown away. The same is true of 
other vegetables and of rice. In fact, 
it is true of any food subjected to the 
process of boiling. Again, in any pro- 



284 



STARVING HUMANITY 



285 



cess of cooking, the heat chemically 
changes the salts into inorganic com- 
pounds ; and in such form they are not 
usable. Indeed, this is the chief objec- 
tion to cooking foods; that the salts 
are rendered chemically and electrically 
useless. 

However, in the case of very starchy 
food products, as rice and potatoes, it 
seems necessary that the starch be 
dextrinized by cooking, in order to 
render it soluble and digestible. This 
can best be accomplished by either 
steaming or baking. But in the case 
of albumins and fats, no such necessity 
supervenes, as fats and albumins can be 
digested as well, or better, raw than_ 
cooked. 

In cooking fruit, leaf and stem vege- 
tables, milk, eggs, and most nuts there 
is a decided disadvantage, as these are 
the food products richest in mineral 
salts and freest from starchy elements. 
Because of this, every daily menu should 
contain at least some of these food pro- 
ducts in a raw state. 

Again, in the cooking process evap- 
oration takes place, more water is added, 
and the earthy sub'stances (principally 
lime), which are present in the water, 
remain by the evaporation of the latter, 
and the system becomes overloaded by 
the presence of burdensome material. 

In the growing period of life mineral 
matter is especially called for. This is 
practically the period of white flour, tea, 
refined sugar, and candy; all of which 
are deficient in organic salts. Such 
deficiency results in rickets and pre- 
mature decay of the teeth. Something 
must be radically wrong with our dietetic 
habits that this country should require 
an army of 40,000 dentists to keep our 
teeth in repair. Lower animals, some 
of which live to a ripe old age, are not 
such sufferers. Animals, when they eat 
meat, gnaw the bones, also, thus 
obtaining the necessary phosphates and 
calcium salts. 

What the public is suffering from is 
mineral starvation; and an enterprising 



drug concern, recognizing this fact, 
undertakes to supply this deficiency by 
gathering up old bones and grinding 
them to powder; and they offer to sell 
us this bone powder to mix with our food. 
Not such a bad idea after all when we 
consider that meat without the bone is 
quite deficient in natural salts. 

But there is a better way. Wheat — 
the whole grain I refer to — is practically 
a perfect food. It contains all the 
fifteen elements found in the body, and 
in almost identical proportion; but 
modern milling impoverishes the wheat 
kernel by removing the outer layers 
containing, in addition to the bran, most 
of the salts and gluten. 

Again, yeast baking further impover- 
ishes the flour by alcoholic and carbonic 
acid fermentation to the extent of 
twenty per cent. 

Dr. Victor Vaughan, University of 
Michigan, says that in anaemia, inor- 
ganic forms of iron cannot be utilized to 
supply the hemoglobin of the blood 
corpuscles. What is true of iron is true 
of other salts. Animal life, being of a 
high order, cannot feed directly upon 
the inorganic matter, but plant life can 
appropriate the crystals and assimilate 
and transform them into cell-life by a 
process of refining, vitalizing and chem- 
ical combustion, and thus render the 
mineral available for man. 

Prof. Voit of Munich finds that about 
thirty-one grams of proteid (Fisher 
places it at forty-five), are needed for 
an average man, which is about the 
amount of mineral matter needed in the 
form of organic salts. But how much 
is said about the former, and what little 
said of the necessity or quantity of 
the latter. 

In reviewing a table of food products, 
to ascertain the amount of salts found 
in each, we were surprised to see ripe 
olives at the head of the list, with 4.4 
per cent mineral substance ; raisins with 
3.2 per cent, pine nuts (pignolias) at 
3 per cent. Notice the poverty of beef 
(Continued on page 302) 



286 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

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published ten times a year by 

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Entered at Boston Post-okfice as Second-class Matter 

THE losses caused by the great war 
are incredible and beyond the com- 
pass of the most virile imagination. 
There are the awful harvests of legalized 
murder, death, wounds, poverty, grief, 
and social desolation. The finest ideals 
of civilization have been shattered, 
Christianity has become a byword in 
heathen lands, and the friendship of 
nations has been thrust into the back- 
ground. Worse than all, from the 
scholar's point of view, is the dis- 
ruption of the Republic of Letters, 
that fair inheritance founded and be- 
queathed to us by men of light and 
learning in all lands. At a Liberal 



Congress in Boston once a French 
speaker was heartily applauded by a 
German scholar; in our time such a 
thing cannot happen again, and more's 
the pity. ' ' 

EDITORIAL COMMENT 

WITH the opinions and sentiments 
presented in our contributed ar- 
ticles American Cookery may and may 
not entirely agree. We believe in freedom 
of thought and its expression and, hence, 
are not inclined to tamper with the views 
of the writers and authors whose con- 
tributions we are pleased to accept and 
publish. Their opinions are to be re- 
spected; as editors only our responsibil- 
ities must be considered. For instance, 
in choice of food, we have neither 
practiced nor advocated strict vegetar- 
ianism and yet the subject is not one 
to be tabooed in a culinary publication. 
Likewise, in the present day, universal 
suffrage, marriage and divorce, politics, 
etc., etc., are much mooted questions, 
in respect to which our sentiments are 
not called for nor desired. In short, we 
are propagandists of nothing save plain, 
wholesome, cheerful home life. This 
is a field broad enough for the efforts 
of the most ambitious. Here is ground 
safe to tread upon, with no risk of tres- 
passing on the sensibilities and convic- 
tions of others. Our theme is home 
life, of which our annual Thanksgiving 
festival is a most distinctive feature. 
We commend the celebration of Thanks- 
giving Day and all that it commemorates. 

Of affairs in general there is one point, 
however, wherein we wish to make 
reservation. In every matter of small 
or large import a moral issue is involved 
— the question of justice or injustice, 
right or wrong, comes up for decision. 
Once to every man and nation comes the moment 

to decide, 
In the strife of Truth with Falsehood, 
For the good or evil side. 

Just here at this point we are always 
ready to claim the privilege, not to 
shirk responsibility, but to stand up 
and be counted. 



EDITORIALS 



287 



THE HISTORIC MARKET DIS- 
TRICT OF BOSTON 

NEAR the center of what is now 
the business district of Boston, 
and what was formerly the 
pcHtical center of colonial Boston, there 
is to be found a large gray granite 
structure built about a hundred years 
ago by the first Mayor Quincy. 
Rather oddly it is sometimes spoken of 
as the Faneuil Hall Market, instead of 
the Quincy Market ; and the older 
stand, opposite, is paradoxically referred 
to, as the "New" Faneuil Hall Market. 
However, there is a reason. Faneuil 
Hall was instituted primarily as a 
market house in 1742 (the inclusion of 
a public town hall coming into the scheme 
later), hence the present name. In 
1825 when this Josiah Quincy was 
managing Boston's municipal affairs, 
he realized that, in the not far distant 
future, the city would need a larger 
market than the lower story of the old 
hall afforded, so the 535-foot structure 
was erected across the street from the 
historic building. The original market 
was closed, to be reopened, however, 
in 1858 — whence the reference to the 
new in the present acceptation of the 
name. 

At present, sundry small stands are 
to be foimd in various sections of the 
half-mile-square area (once a sweep of 
fiats and docks) which now comprises 
the market district. All the approaches 
to the square are bordered with these 
stands, with the result that we can 
imagine the present markets as having 
conceived and brought into existence 
several generations of markets. One is 
not permitted, however, to push the 
analogy further, because all of the 
niunerous progeny have suffered from 
arrested development. 

Considering that the Quincy Market 
was opened in 1826, it is in marvelously 
good shape. Far-sighted, indeed, must 
have been the architect who designed, 
and the builders who put up a structure 



that, after the lapse of nearly a century, 
still holds it own with many newer 
markets. 

In Boston, our public market facilities 
are unappreciated by the great majority 
of the citizens. Indeed, were not these 
splendid facilities comparatively un- 
known to most of us, the need for newer 
and larger buildings would undoubtedly 
make itself felt. 

Here there may be found food pro- 
ducts, not only of our own wide country, 
but of the world. From all quarters of 
the globe come contributions to hungry 
humanity's needs. By rail, come fruits 
from California; dairy products from 
New York ; pork, beef and mutton from 
Chicago and the West; while fast 
steamers bring to our very doors the 
choicest results of each country's labor, 
ingenuity, and skill. The words 
"ingenuity and skill" are used advisedly, 
because, as world-marketing increases, 
scientific methods come into use all 
over the food raising areas of the globe. 
Intensive farming is but one branch of 
a world-wide re-organization of indus- 
trial efficiency. Similar methods are 
employed wherever food products are 
being raised, to any large extent; and 
these great markets help to take care of 
the output. 

Experts who are visiting, regularly, 
all the great market centers of the 
country report that none surpass the 
Boston market as to the value and 
excellence of the merchandise, and 
it might be added, in the courtesy and 
honesty of the tradesmen. Still, as the 
Boston scribe trailed around in the 
great market a few nights ago, she found 
herself contrasting its Puritan severity 
and strict utilitarian character with 
New York's recent gift from Vincent 
Astor; and she found herself wishing 
that, some day, Boston might be the 
recipient of a similar institution. 

This new building erected under the 
direction of Mr. Astor, and opened on 
October 16, 1915, has been characterized 
as the "last w^ord" in market buildino:. 



288 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Planned after the Renaissance markets 
of Florence, it combines utility with a 
high degree of artistry, as to design and 
finish. It is a huge structure — white 
and light, and so clean that a fly would 
starve in it. All. meat and poultry is 
kept in plate glass cases which are 
refrigerated from two twenty-ton ice 
making machines in the lower part of 
the building. There is an immense 
incinerator which burns, without odor, 
all the waste and garbage. 

All these great central food dispen- 
saries are indicative of more than the 
casual thinker ascribes to them. The 
tendency of the time is away from 
Competion toward Co-operation, and 
these great municipal market-places, 
though illustrating both tendencies, tend 
more strongly towards the latter. It 
remains for the housewives of all our 
large cities to avail themselves of the 
advantages and privileges resulting 
therefrom. First, however, Mrs. House- 
wife must divorce herself from the 
telephone method of marketing, rise 
above her unreasoning distaste for 
carrying parcels, develop her discrim- 
inating ability, and follow the good 
example of the women of Washington, 
D. C, who may be seen in the trolley, 
in motors and on foot, carrying the 
inevitable shallow basket, laden with 
the results of a morning pilgrimage to 
the big market. 

In the old days "ladies" meant "loaf- 
givers." Why should not the words 
today be interpreted loaf -buyers? 
Unexampled trade facilities have placed 
the fruits of the land and the sea at our 
disposal. Shall we not profit thereby? 

B. W. 

The Boy Who Will Be in Demand 

One of the finest qualities in a work- 
man is the quality of seeing what needs 
to be done and doing it without being 
told. One of the rarest in a servant in 
the house is the doing of things that 
need to be done without being told. 
Young men working their way through 



college are invaluable if they have this 
quality. A tool is left out on the lawn; 
there is a rail off the fence; there is a 
lock broken from the door; there is a 
window-pane gone somewhere. The 
boy who tends to these things because 
they need attending to, without specific 
directions, is the boy who, other things 
being equal, is going to be in demand 
when he gets out into the great world, 
and it is the attention to little things 
and the habit of observation, which 
sees what needs to be done and then 
does it, which makes exceedingly useful 
men and women. There will always be 
a position for such persons. There 
will alv/ays be a call to come up higher. 
— Exchange. 



Preparedness! 
The Keynote of Supremacy! 

P-ray! have we 
R-eached the MILLENNIUM, 
E-nsuring safe 
P-rotection from 
A-rtful law breakers? 
R-est assured, then that our country's 
E-TERNAL PEACE 
D-emands the same 
N-ucleus of PROTECTION in 
E-volutionary PREPAREDNESS that 
S-ensible individual citizens demand for them- 
selves! 
S-o endeth the first warning! 

P-ray! have we EACH 

R-eached that 

E-volutionary state where 

P-eace reigns supreme in our hearts? 

A-rgument evokes angelic smiles? 

R-iches, we covet not? 

E-fficiency is paramount? 

D-omestic bliss universal? 

N-ever, then can we expect 

E-nnobling UNIVERSAL PEACE to reign 

S-upreme without PREPAREDNESS! 

8-0 endeth the second warning! 

P-ray! In our Pilgrim fathers' 

R-egime do we discover the 

E-ndangering motto: 

"P-EACE AT ANY PRICE?" 

A-nd is our beloved and 

R-evered flag 

E-mblematical of so spineless a motto? 

D-evour conscientiously the 

N-umerous biblical teachings! They truly 

E-volve as the priceless motto of loyalty: 

"S-TAMINA FOR RIGHT AT ANY PRICE!' 

S-o endeth the final warning! 

Caroline Louise Sumner. 




TURKEY TRUSSED FOR ROASTING 



Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Cold Bonnes-Bouches 

Roll puff-paste into a thin sheet and 
cut out into rounds to fit the outside of 
small "patty-pans." Cover the pans 
with the pastry, cutting it smooth on 
the edge; prick it with a fork and bake 
until done; remove the shells from the 
pans and set them aside to chill. Mix 
one-fourth a cup of chicken broth in 
which half a tablespoonful of gelatine 
has been softened with one-fourth 
a cup, each, of hot tomato sauce and 
hot Bechamel sauce; add one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of chili vinegar, one 
teaspoonful of capers and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce; 
then stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs 
and let cook, stirring constantly, over 
boiling water until the egg is set; stir 
in half a cup of cooked chicken and 



one-fourth a cup of lean, cooked ham 
both cut in quarter-inch cubes. Add 
additional seasoning if needed, and stir 
in ice and water until beginning to 
thicken, then use to fill the puff-paste 
cases. Fill the cases to about half 
their height. Chill thoroughly. Set a 
figure cut from pickled beets or from a 
slice of truffle or cooked egg above the 
mixture in each shell. Serve on lace 
papers laid on small plates as a first 
course. The meat should be rather 
highly seasoned. 

Little Cheese Boats 

Roll puff or flaky pastry about one- 
eighth of an inch thick and cut into 
pieces to cover the outside of very small 
boat or oval shaped tins. Cut around 
the edge of each neatly, prick all over 
with a fork and set onto a baking sheet. 



289 



290 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Let bake until done. Heat three table- 
spoonfuls of Bechamel sauce; add half 
a cup of melted aspic, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and cayenne 
also two level tablespoonfuls of grated 
Parmesan cheese and four of grated 
Gruyere cheese. , Stir over ice and water 
until cool but not set, then fold in one- 
fourth a cup of cream, whipped very 
stiff. Continue to fold the mixture 
until it begins to stiffen, then with 
bag and star tube pipe the mixture into 
the pastry cases. Garnish with fine- 
chopped green pistachio nuts. Serve 
as a last course with coffee. 



when the soup is ready to serve with 
croutons or toasted crackers. The soup 
may be made in larger quantity and 
stored as canned fruit in glass jars. 

Fish Salad in Shells 

Any cooked fish may be used for 
salad. Separate the fish into flakes and 
marinate it with equal measures of lemon 
juice and oil; scrape in a little onion 
juice, and sprinkle each pint of fish with 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Mix without 
breaking the fish and let stand in a cool 
place an hour or longer. When ready 




FISH SALAD IN SHELLS 



Tomato Soup 

Put over the fire three quarts of sliced 
or canned tomatoes, three branches of 
celery, three cloves, three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, three teaspoonfuls of salt, 
half a bay leaf, three sprigs of parsley, 
and half a red pepper with an onion and 
a half chopped coarse; let cook twenty 
minutes then strain through a fine sieve, 
using a pestle to secure as much of the 
tomato as possible. Melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter; in it stir and cook 
three tablespoonfuls of flour, until 
bubbling throughout; let chill a few 
minutes; add a little of the tomato 
pulp and stir; add more pulp several 
times, stirring meanwhile, then when 
smooth and well diluted stir into the 
hot soup; continue to stir until boiling, 



to serve, drain the fish and mix with it 
two tablespoonfuls of thin-sHced cucum- 
ber pickles, two tablespoonfuls of capers, 
one-fourth a cup of thin-sliced olives and 
enough mayonnaise to hold all together. 
Set the salad in scallop shells, smooth 
over the tops with a silver knife and 
cover or mask completely with mayon- 
naise dressing. Garnish with shreds 
cut from green pepper, bits of Japanese 
parsley, figures cut from pickled beets 
and hard-cooked egg-white. Let chill 
thoroughly before serving. 

Fish Baked in Crust, York Beach 
Style 

Remove the skin from a fresh cod or 
haddock, cut deep gashes across each 
side of the fish, three inches apart and 
set a narrow strip of fat salt pork in each 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



291 




TUNA FISH SALAD 



gash. Rub salt and pepper into the 
€sh on both sides. Make a rich biscuit 
crust and roll it to a size to cover the 
fish. Set the fish at the center of the 
■crust and bring the crust up to cover it 
■completely. Bake in a buttered pan. 
To serve, cut across the fish, using care 
to cut through the bone. Serve with 
-egg sauce. 

Clam Bannock, New York Style 

Mix an old-fashioned cornmeal ban- 
mock and let bake. Cut salt pork in 
.•small bits and cook in a frying pan until 
"the fat is well tried out. Remove the 
tough portion of the clams and chop 
ifine. Have just enough fat in the pan 
to keep the clams from sticking to it; 
add both the soft and chopped portions 
•of the clams, stir a few minutes, then 
add as much white sauce as clams. 
Split the bannock, spread each piece 
with butter, cover one-half with the 
clam mixture, set the other half above 



and finish with the rest of the clam 
mixture. A pint of sauce and a quart 
of uncooked clams are needed for a 
bannock made of two or three cups of 
cornmeal. A modern corncake might 
be preferred by many to the bannock 
made of meal, salt and water. 

Corncake 

Sift together one cup and a half of 
flour, three-fourths of a cup of corn- 
meal, one-third of a cup of sugar, four 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and 
one-half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat one 
egg and one yolk; add three-fourths of 
a cup of milk and stir into the dry 
ingredients with three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter. 

Tuna Fish Salad 

Open a can of Tuna fish as close to the 
edge of the can as possible, drain off all 
liqtdd, and turn the fish in as compact 
shape as possible upon a bed of carefully 





NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER 



292 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



washed and dried heart-leaves of lettuce. 
Pour one cup of mayonnaise dressing 
over the fish, sprinkle the whole with 
shreds of sweet green pepper and serve 
a second cup of mayonnaise in a bowl. 
This will serve eight to ten people. 

New England Boiled Dinner 

Select a piece of brisket; cover this 
with cold water, let heat slowly to the 
boiling point, then let simmer until 
tender. The brisket does not vary 
much in thickness and, from time to 
time, the duration of cooking will not 
vary very much. Set to cook at seven 
a. m., the meat will usually be tender 
by twelve o'clock. Take out the meat 
and set into the warming oven ; into the 
liquid put the potatoes, pared, and the 
carrots, scraped and, if large, cut in 
halves, cover and let cook until the 
vegetables are done — a little less than 
half an hour will be required. In the 
meanwhile, cook a cabbage, cut in 
quarters, in a large sauce pan of boiling 



require from one to two hours cooking. 
Cook turnips in unsalted water. 

Stewed Chicken, with Biscuit 

Select a chicken about a year old; 
singe, draw, and separate into pieces at 
the joints. Wash and cover with boiling 
water, let boil ten minutes, then cook at 
the simmering point until tender, about 
two hours. Melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter (use fat from the top of the broth 
in place of butter) ; in it cook one-fourth 
a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper 
until frothy; add one-fourth a cup of 
cream, mix and add two cups of the 
chicken broth and stir and cook until 
boiling. Beat two egg-yolks; add two 
tablespoonfuls of cream and a few grains, 
of salt and beat into the sauce. Set the 
joints of chicken in symmetrical fashion 
in the center of a large chop-plate, set 
hot baking powder biscuit around the 
chicken and pour the sauce over both 
chicken and biscuit. 




STEWED CHICKEN, WITH BISCUIT 



water, from half to three quarters of an 
hour. Set carefully washed beets to 
cook at the same time as the meat ; when 
cooked, drain, cover with cold water, 
and slip off the skin. Leave the beef 
in the center of the platter with the 
vegetables around it. A corned fore- 
quarter of lamb or of pork may replace 
the beef. Turnips are often served 
with this dish. Cut in slices they will 



Sausage Cannelons 

Roll half a pound of puff paste about 
one-eighth an inch thick and cut it 
into strips half an inch wide; roll the 
strips of paste around lady-lock sticks, 
so that the strip of paste overlaps half 
the other until the whole stick is covered ; 
set the paste-covered sticks in a baking; 
pan, brush over with egg-yolk, beaten 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



293 




CHICKEN GALANTINE, GRAPE DECORATION 



and diluted with its volume of milk. 
Bake until done. Have ready choice 
cooked links of sausage cut into thin 
slices, for each cup and a half of sausage 
slices; take one cup of Bechamel sauce 
in which the liquid is cream and chicken 
broth. Slip the cannelons from the 
sticks and fill with the sausage mixture. 
Serve as an entree after or with roast 
turkey; or, as the main hot dish at a 
Thanksgiving supper. 

Chicken Galantine, Grape 
Decoration 

Bone a chicken, separate the flesh 
■from the skin, lay the skin on a board 
and trim to make a rectangtilar shape. 
Push the skin of the legs and wings inside 
and spread the flesh evenly over the 
skin to cover it as nearly as possible. 
Cover the flesh with a veal-loaf mixture, 
.adding here and there a mushroom, or 
•cubes of raw fat salt pork or pickled 
tongue at pleasure. Roll and sew into 
:shape, tie in cotton cloth, in three places 



to keep the shape uniform. Set the 
chicken bones into a saucepan, cover 
with cold water and when boiling set 
the galantine above the bones, cover 
and let simmer about three hours. 
Press under a weight, when cold pour 
over a chaudfroid sauce just on the 
point of setting. Dispose rounds cut 
from slices of truffles and parsley 
branches with stems on the sauce to 
represent a bunch of grapes with leaves 
and tendrils. Serve cold, cut in thin 
slices, with celery -and-white grape salad. 

Chaudfroid Sauce 

To a pint of mayonnaise dressing or 
Bechamel sauce, add two tablespoonfuls 
of gelatine softened in cold water and 
dissolved by standing over boiHng water. 
The gelatine may be dissolved in the 
Bechamel sauce while it is hot. 

Celery-and- White Grape Salad 

Cut celery hearts into thin slices. 
Remove the skin from white grapes, 




TOMATO-AND-CELERY SALAD DE LUXE 



294 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, DOUGH READY FOR ROLLING 

cut them in halves and discard the seeds. 
Use equal measures of celery and grapes ; 
dress with French dressing. 

Tomato-and-Celeiy Salad de Luxe 

Peel several common choice, ripe, red 
tomatoes and a few yellow, plum 
tomatoes. Cut the red tomatoes in 
thick slices and the yellow tomatoes in 
halves, lengthwise. Set the red tomatoes 
around a center of crisp, heart celery 
stalks, cut in slices, and dispose the 
yellow tomatoes above. Pour over 
French dressing flavored with a Httle 
scraped onion, and serve at once. For 
a luncheon salad use mayonnaise dressing. 



Parker House Rolls 

Crumble a cake of 
compressed yeast into 
half a cup of luke- 
warm milk or water, mix 
thoroughly and add two 
cups of lukewarm milk; 
stir in from two to three 
cups of bread flour 
(sifted) then beat until 
very smooth. Cover 
with a plate and let 
stand in a temperature 
of about 70 degrees F., 
until light and puffy. 
Add two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, from 
one-third to one-half a cup of shortening 
and flour to make a dough. Knead 
until smooth and elastic. Wash out the 
bowl, butter thoroughly and set the 
dough in it; cover and let stand until 
doubled in bulk. Turn upon a hghtly- 
floured board, upper side down, and roll 
into a sheet about half an inch thick; 
cut into rounds; brush one half of each 
round with melted butter and fold the 
other half over the buttered half. Set 
close together in a buttered pan. When 
again doubled in bulk, bake about half 
an hour. Brush over with white of egg 
slig:htrv beaten and return to the oven 




PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, DOUGH READY TO CUT 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



295 




PARKER HOUSE ROLLS, READY FOR THE TABLE 



to set the egg. Note that the dough, 
when light, is not cut down, but is turned 
without disturbing it in the least upon 
the board. In this way, but a few 
motions with the rolling pin are needed 
to roll it into a thin sheet. 

Apple Pie, Flaky Upper Crust 

Line a pie plate with plain pastry and 
fill it with sliced apples; pour over one 
cup of sugar, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt and dot with bits of butter; grate 
over a little nutmeg; brush the edge 
of the pastry with cold water and set 
a round of flaky pastry above ; press the 
edges together, brush with cold water 
and let bake about twenty-five minutes. 

Plain Pastry 

Sift together one cup and a half of 
flour and one-third a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and baking powder. With two 
knives cut in one-third a cup of shorten- 
ing, then using rather less than half a 
cup of cold water, mix the ingredients 
to a paste that cleans the bowl. Turn 
half the paste upon a lightly floured 
board, knead slightly and roll into a 
round that fits the plate; let the paste 
lie loosely on the plate and trim the 
edge as needed. 

Flaky Pastry for Upper Crust 

Turn the rest of the paste upon the 
board, knead slightly and roll into a 



rectangular sheet. Have ready two or 
three tablespoonfuls of creamed butter; 
set part of this on half the paste, in little 
bits, some distance apart and fold the 
other half of the paste over the butter; 
set other bits of butter on half of this 
paste and fold the unbuttered paste over 
the butter; pat with the rolling pin, 
then roll into a thin sheet; fold three 
times, turn half way round and again 
roll into a sheet; fold three times and 
roll to fit the plate. 

Filling for Pumpkin Pie 

Beat two eggs; add two cups of 
strained pumpkin, three-fourths a cup of 
granulated sugar, one-fourth a cup of 
orange marmalade, chopped exceedingly 
fine, a scant teaspoonful of salt, one cup 
of cream and half a cup of milk; mix 
thoroughly and turn into a plate lined 
for a pie with but one crust. Bake about 
forty-five minutes or until firm in the 
center. In place of the marmalade use 



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PLATE LINED WITH PASTRY FOR PUMPKIN PIE 



296 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



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Ul'l'I'LR CRUST 



three tablespoonfuls of molasses, one 
teaspoonf ul of ginger and half a teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon, or use one -fourth a 
cup of ginger syrup and fine-chopped 
stem ginger. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream 

Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot 
water; add two-thirds a cup of sugar 
and one-third a cup of boiling water and 
stir until boiling. Soften one-third a 
package of gelatine in one-third a cup 
of cold water and dissolve in the hot 
chocolate mixture; add one teaspoonf ul 
of vanilla extract and stir in ice and 
water until the mixture begins to 
thicken, then fold in one cup and a half 
of cream beaten very light but not dry. 
Line a mold, holding one quart, with 
narrow strips of cake or lady fingers, 
leaving a narrow space between them, 
fill the mold with the mixture and set 
aside to become chilled. Serve turned 
from the mold with or without whipped 
cream. In the illustration the mold 
was lined with strips of cake 
covered with chocolate 
frosting, alternated with 
cake without frosting. 

Chocolate Mousse or 
Parfait 

Soften half a tablespoon- 
ful of gelatine in one-eighth 
a cup of cold milk. Scald 
one cup of milk in a double 
boiler. Melt two ounces of 



chocolate over hot water; 
add one-third a cup of 
sugar and one-half a cup 
of the hot milk and stir 
over the fire until smooth 
and boiling; then stir into 
the rest of the milk in the 
double boiler. Beat two 
egg-yolks ; add one-third 
a cup of sugar and beat 
again, then stir into the 
hot mixture ; stir and cook 
until the egg is ''set," then 
add the softened gelatine 
and strain into a dish of ice and water. 
Stir until beginning to thicken, then 
fold in one cup and a half of cream 
beaten very light Flavor with one 
tablespoonful of vanilla. Turn into a 
quart mold and cover with a piece of 
parchment paper ; press the cover down 
over the paper. Bury in equal measures 
of ice and salt. Let stand about three 
hours. Repack if necessary. 

Cranberry Tarts 

These may be made of flaky or of puff 
paste. Puff paste tarts are made from 
the trimmings left from patty shells. 
The paste is rolled thinner than for 
patties, and cut with the ordinary patty 
cutter. For the filling, chop together 
one cup of cranberries and half a cup of 
seeded raisins; sift together one cup of 
sugar, three tablespoonfuls of flour and 
half a teaspoonful of salt, add to the 
chopped mixture with half a cup of 
boiling water and let cook in double- 
boiler half an hour. 




CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM 



Suggestions for Thanksgiving Dinners 

Some Beginnings 

SLICES Canned Pineapple; Halves of Grapefruit; Grapefruit Cocktail; Grapefruit, 
Orange Pineapple and White Grape Cocktail; Oyster Cocktail; Lobster Cocktail; 
Bacon Canapes; Caviare Canapes. 

Soups and Accessories 

CLAM Broth, Browned Crackers, Pickles, Celery; Oyster Soup, Oysterettes, Celery, 
Pickles; Scallop Soup, Oysterettes, Celery, Ripe Olives; Consomme, Bread Sticks, 
Endive, Salted Nuts; Giblet Soup, Toasted Rolls, Celery, Olives; Tomato Soup, Imperial 
Sticks, Celery, Olives; Cream of Kornlet Soup, Croutons or Pop Corn, Pickles. 

Fish 

BOILED Shoulder of Fresh Cod, Boiled Potatoes, Egg Sauce; Halibut, Baked Point- 
Shirley Style, Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel; Filets of Flounder, Fried, Sauce Tartare; 
Fresh Fish Mousse, TrufBed, Hollandaise Sauce; Turbans of Fresh Fish, Baked, Buttered 
Potato Balls. , 

Entrees 

INDIVIDUAL Chicken Pies; Chicken Timbales; Chicken Patties; Creamed Chicken 
■'■ in Swedish Timbale Cases; Oyster Patties; Scalloped Oysters; Sweetbread and 
Mushroom Patties; Scallops a la Brestoise, Choice Pork Sausage; Rice Croquettes with 
Currant Jelly; Macaroni Croquettes; Chicken Croquettes; Oyster Croquettes; Lobster 
Cutlets; Stuffed Peppers; Cannelons of Sausage; Cannelons of Oysters. 

Roasts 

D OAST Turkey, Cranberry Sauce, Giblet Sauce; Roast Chicken, Cranberry Sauce' 
•■•^ Giblet Sauce; Roast Duck, Currant Jelly, Orange-and-Celery Salad; Roast Guinea 
Hen, Guava Jelly; Roast Pork, Apple Sauce; Ham Baked in Cider, Apples Cooked in 
Syrup or Sweet Cider Frappe. 

Vegetables 

R^ASHED Potatoes; Scalloped Potatoes; Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style; Onions, 
^^^ stuffed with Sausage; Onions stuffed with Nuts; Creamed Onions; Buttered 
Onions; Squash; Cauliflower au gratin; Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce; Chestnuts, 
creamed. 

Salads 

DELGIAN Endive in Green Pepper Rings; Endive and Celery; Shredded Celery and 
•■-' Green Pepper; Lettuce Hearts; Chiffonade of Celery, Tomatoes and Green 
Peppers; Celery and Sliced Oranges or Grapefruit; Prunes, Celery and Pecan Nuts. 



P 



Bread 

ARKER House Rolls, Rye Bread, Graham Bread, Spoon Corn Bread. 

Desserts 



pUMPKIN Pie; Squash Pie; Cranberry Pie; Marlboro Pie; Lemon Pie; Apple 
■'■ Pie; Jelly Tarts; Lemon Cheese Cakes; Queen of Puddings; Baked Indian Pudding 
with Vanilla Ice Cream; Maple and Nut Sundae; Chocolate Parfait; Grape Juice Parf ait; 
Maple Syrup Cake; Lemon Queens; Sponge Cake; Maple Bonbons; Raisins; Assorted 
Nuts; Dried Fruits; Pears; Apples. 



Balanced Menus for Week in November 



Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp, Thin Cream Toast 

Broiled Bacon, Small Baked Potatoes 

Fried Bananas Rice Griddlecakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stewed Fowl, Yellow Sauce 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Sweet Pickle, Pears or Melon Rinds Celery 

Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes 

French Dressing 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Grapejuice Charlotte Russe 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Rice Cooked with Tomatoco and Cheese 

Gluten Bread and Butter Canned Pears 

Sponge Jelly Roll Tea 



Breakfast 

Cresco Grits, Thin Cream 

Country Sausage, Fried Bananas 

Stewed Potatoes 

Spider Corncake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Potato Soup 

Lady Cabbage 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Mock Mince Pie 

Tea 

Dinner 

Rib Roast of Beef 

Franconia Potatoes 

Squash Celery 

Apples Baked with Almonds 

Honey Cookies 



Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Thin Cream 

Stewed Figs Chicken on Toast 

Cornmeal MufSns 

Coffee ' Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons 

Onions Stuffed with Nuts, Baked 

Seamoss Farine Blancmange 

Cookies Boiled Custard 

Tea 

Dinner 

Salisbury Steak, Hotel Style 

French Fried Potatoes 

Squash, Well Buttered 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Celery 

Cottage Pudding, Hard Sauce 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Bacon Fried Apples 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Teco Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Salt Codfish Balls 

Bacon Rolls (fried in deep fat) 

Cabbage Salad Pop Overs 

Rice Pudding with Raisins 

. Coffee 

Dinner 

Cold Rib Roast of Beef 

Mashed Potatoes Creamed Celery 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Squash Pie Tea 



Breakfast 
Baked Apples Cream of Wheat 



Finnan Haddie Fish Cakes 
Piccalilli 
Toast Doughnuts 
Coffee Cocoa 



Bacon 



Luncheon 

Stewed Lima Beans Parker House Rolls 

Sliced Peppers and Lettuce, French Dressing 

Sponge Jelly Roll Canned Pears 

Tea 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup 

Fresh Fish in Crust, York Beach Style 

Macedoine of Vegetable Salad 

Apple Pie, Cream Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream 
Cream Toast with Cheese 

Doughnuts 
Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Kornlet Chowder 
Uneeda Biscuit Mustard Pickles 

Baba, Apricot Sauce Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled Fresh Codfish Drawn Butter Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Canned String Beans 

Lettuce and Tomato Jelly, French Dressing 

Sponge Jelly Roll 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Hot Dates Fried Mush 

Roast Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Tomato Catsup 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Dried Lima Beans, Stewed 
Spoon Corn Bread Celery 
Apple Pie Cheese 
Tea 



Dinner 

Roast Beef Chowder 

Spinach 

Queen of Puddings 

Peanut Brittle Tea 



298 



Art in Cookery 

By Margaret L. Sears 



IF one could produce a meal that 
was artistic and at the same time 
historic there would be no question 
as to whether it were wise to use art in 
cookery. Who has not read with in- 
terest that famous introduction to Quen-^ 
tin Durward in which Sir Walter Scott 
describes the wonderful meal which he 
attended at the chateau of the French 
marquis where the old servant was 
"maitre d'hotel, maitre de cuisine, a 
whole suite of attendants in his own 
poor individuality ' ' ? 

The menu is a masterpiece of per- 
fection of detail both artistic and cul- 
inary. It appeals even to the modern 
palate with its quaint description of the 
different courses. Beginning with "soupe 
maigre — delicately flavored; matelot of 
pike and eels." Although a Scotch- 
man, Sir Walter was "reconciled to the 
latter." Then follow in correct order: 
"Petit-plat of bouUi • — exquisitely dressed 
so as to retain all the juices; so thor- 
oughly tender nothing could be more 
delicate." The potage arranged in a 
small dish or two was equally well 
arranged. "But the crowning glory of 
the feast, and what "the old m.aitre 
d'hotel valued himself upon as some- 
thing superb" was: "an immense assiet- 
tee of spinach, not smioothed into a 
uniform surface, but swelling into hills 
and declining into vales over which 
swept a gallant stag pursued by a pack 
of hounds in, full cry and a noble field of 
horsemen with bugle horns held up- 
right and brandished after the manner 
of broadswords, hounds, huntsman and 

299 



stag being all very artistically cut out 
of toasted bread." 

It had taken the "best part of two 
days" to bring this work to perfection 
and the marquis himself had conde- 
scended to help make some of the 
figures. After this remarkable entree 
(?) came an exquisite dessert of cheese, 
fruits, salad, and delicious white 
wine. 

Through the magic description of 
Sir Walter, this famous dinner has 
become a classic against which the 
wonderful dish of spinach stands out 
like a bas-relief of enticing browns upon 
a luscious green background. 

When one considers that it took 
two days of continuous work to complete 
this one dish he may appreciate some- 
what the fact that the time consumed 
in preparing a meal has always been 
disproportionately long compared with 
the time spent in consuming the same. 

A certain young lady once remarked 
that she never wanted to learn to cook 
"because one could spend a whole 
morning preparing a dish, while the 
family could calmly eat it up in five 
minutes." 

This same person took a good in- 
surance business left by her father and 
carried it on so successfully she could 
afford to hire a woman to take care of 
her home and she never married. 

There is truth, however, in her re- 
mark, although it is not entirely true, 
for no woman spends an entire morning 
eveiy day on only one dish. Still the 
question of what proportion of time 



300 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



shall be devoted to the preparing of 
meals is a most important one. 

The expert who can command good 
prices for her services is expected to 
prepare her dishes with artistic care; 
she usually has helpers to assist in the 
work and is, of course, a business 
woman. But the expert in Domestic 
Science would be careful not to spend 
too large a proportion of valuable time 
on one dish. She plans her menu to 
conform to the limit of time and space, 
and with no waste of effort. 

The woman who is married and can 
have no servant, who must prepare the 
meals for the family within a restricted 
sum and who, owing to the many duties 
that press upon her, must give as small 
a proportion of time as possible to that 
time-consuming process — preparing a 
meal — should this woman expend much 
time, if any, on the artistic arrangement 
of her food and table? 

The good housekeeper always sys- 
tematizes her work; and the woman 
who does so systematize usually pre- 
pares her meals with an artistic insight. 
The artistic touch is, after all, only a 
certain kind of orderliness, and with 
order — "Heaven's first law" — as a foun- 
dation, one can work out a simple or 
more complicated scheme as she has 
opportunity. The conscientious house- 
keeper soon acquires a certain facility 
in arranging her table and follows in- 
stinctively some symmetrical form of 
arrangement, whether it be of furniture, 
dishes or food. These forms may be 
elaborated indefinitely. It is the wise 
woman who studies the balance of ad- 
justment so that even the expression of 
an artistic idea shall fit into the house- 
hold scheme. 

One may spend nine hours a day on 
the meals; or one may spend half that 
time; but much time must be spent on 
the planning and preparing of meals even 
with the most rigid system. That 
artistic arrangement should receive some 
attention most housekeepers will agree; 
and in considering this question only 



the housekeeper who is conscientious 
and looks upon her occupation as she 
would upon a profession counts. 

It does pay to arrange table and food 
in an artistic manner. The effect upon 
the family is agreeable, and every one 
knows that an attractive table with 
skilfully arranged dishes conduces to 
good digestion. This does not take 
too much time if the housewife plans 
her work efficiently, so that, if only a 
few moments can be spent on the art 
side, those few moments can be so 
filled with concentrated effort that the 
result will be most effective. It may 
be so planned that one side shall not 
take from the other side. As, for in- 
stance: the effort for art should not 
encroach upon the effort to produce 
flavor and tastefulness in the food. 

We remember a lady who at church 
suppers used to bring wonderful loaves 
of cake built in stories made with 
flutings of frosting and decorations of 
fruits, flowers (artificial) and conven- 
tional patterns in various colors ; but one 
seldom took more than one taste of these 
works of culinary art. The cake was 
as tasteless as the famous apples of 
Sodom and Gomorrah. For steady home 
consumption flavor always stands first 
and art second. 

In a boys' camp three years ago we 
came across a chef who might well 
have been a descendant of the old chef 
in Quentin Durward. One evening he 
made some large round layer cakes, the 
tops being decorated with designs in 
white frosting that were the work of a 
true artist. The edges were outHned 
with most delicate traceries and flutings 
with well-modeled doves perched here 
and there. They were exquisitely de- 
signed. Within the ornamental circle 
a herd of deer was grouped, the com- 
position being particularly well arranged. 
One hesitated before destroying such 
beauty by the usual process of masti- 
cation; and, to tell the truth, the taste 
was rather' commonplace, disappointing. 
It was a work of art, but as an 



ART IN COOKERY 



301 



appetizer hardly a success. We had 
eaten with much more reHsh some blue- 
berry pie which he had made in a large 
meat pan for the thirty boys present. 
The pie had been placed in the center 
of the table to be served. The memory 
of the flavor of that berry pie still lingers 
with pleasing distinctness, as 'well as the 
picture of the smiles of satisfaction 
mingled with smears of blue on the 
faces of the camp boys. 

When camp broke up each boy was 
presented with an ornamental cake as 
large as a pie plate. The boy in our 
family had one and for a long time it 
was exhibited to admiring friends but 
no haste was displayed in eating it. 
It became knicked in places where the 
boy friends of the family had tested its 
possibilities. Little by little it dis- 
integrated and finally the remains were 
given to the chickens. 

Anyone who can combine a culinary 
work of art with a flavor that -will make 
an article of food disappear in five 
minutes is a genius and his work is a 
masterpiece. He may not produce a 
dish that is historic as well as a work 



of art like the celebrated French chef, 
but he will acquire a reputation that is 
worth having. 

The impression of a well-arranged 
table with daintily-prepared dishes is 
stimulating and leaves a pleasant mem- 
ory in the mind, and if the special dish 
disappears at once, it should give the 
producer much satisfaction. It is proof 
that one has achieved a success, has 
combined Art with flavor into one 
harmonious whole. 

It is not easy to produce a dish that 
is at the same time a culinary as well 
as an artistic success ; and if any woman 
thinks it is easy she has never tried it. 
But the woman who has tried and 
succeeded will agree that the satis- 
faction achieved in accomplishment is 
worth the trouble. 

Art in culinary science is necessarily 
of short duration and the time con- 
sumed in preparation is long, but each 
perfect combination makes one more 
success in a series of successes; and 
a triumph is a triumph even if it is only 
in the preparation of a dish of spinach 
and toast. 



Lockerbie Street 



It must be lonely in Lockerbie Street, 
Since the joyous singer has gone away. 

There must be a sigh when the children meet 
Under the trees to play. 

And who will sing them the beautiful lore 
That the Children's Poet may sing no more? 



But the sun shines on in Lockerbie Street, 
Gay as the spirit that lingered there. 

The wind laughs out through the shadows fleet 
Dashing and debonnaire, 

And the old round moon smiles calmly down 
Over the roofs and the chimneys brown. 



Smile for us still, O Lockerbie Street, 

Wistful and brave and true. 
Send us back to our worlds to m.eet 

Life that your poet knew, 
Life that is tender and clear and sweet. 

Lockerbie Street, our Lockerbie Street. 



Rose Henderson. 



Starving Humanity 

(Continued from Page 285) 



— .9 per cent. This poverty is due 
undoubtedly to the fact that most of the 
mineral salts of the animal are found in 
the bones which we discard from our 
diet. Milk contains .7 per cent mineral 
matter, white flour .5 per cent, polished 
rice .4 per cent. This is the diet of the 
factory worker. We see why, being 
minerally starved, he seeks to satisfy 
this craving for something, he knows not 
what, by means of stimulants, as tea, 
coffee and beer. If he would use flour 
made from the whole of the wheat kernel, 
his appetite for mineral salts would be 
satisfied to the extent of 1.8 per cent 
instead of .5 per cent as found in white 
flour. If, instead of the polished rice 
usually sold to him, he was encouraged 
to eat the unpolished rice kernel, he 
would obtain 1 per cent instead of .4 
per cent, and his unnatural thirst would 
in a measure be obviated. 

Now, nuts, fruits, leaf and stem 
vegetables are very rich in natural salts. 
Spinach contains 2 per cent, cabbage 
1 per cent, dates 1.4 per cent, prunes 
1.1 per cent, raisins 3.2 per cent, pecans 
1.5 per cent, pine nuts 3 per cent. 

For this great thirst that grips the 
laboring man, and indeed the entire 
nation, "there is a reason"; 'tis mineral 
starvation. Fruits are peculiarly val- 
uable, inasmuch as their acid salts are 
digested and become alkaline carbonates 
in the blood; and, in combination with 
nuts and leaf and stem vegetables, they 
supply the great deficiency in the ordi- 
nary diet; and, moreover, fully satisfy 
the cravings of the system. 

Let us now investigate the effects of 
the deficiency of any one of the tissue 
salts. For example, let us take the 
ferrum salts, and examine the effects of 
a famine in iron. Hemoglobin is found 
to be deficient and consequently oxygen- 
ation suffers, and the electrical power of 
the blood is lessened. Iron is the 



oxydizing agent of the blood. Upon 
iron depends the distribution of oxygen 
for combustion, but iron is only available 
when found in organic molecules. 
Anaemia, chlorosis, and marasmus ensue 
as a result of this diminished supply. 
How shall we make up this deficiency? 
Shall we prescribe iron tonics? Bottled 
iron tonics are not absorbable, and the 
irritating effects of the iron upon the 
gastric mucosa are universally recog- 
nized ; which contra indicates its use in 
many of the very conditions where 
badly needed. 

Spinach, lettuce, cabbage, prunes, 
figs, and strawberries are all very rich 
in ferrum salts, but to secure the iron 
in a form for absorption, these foods 
must be eaten in their natural state. 
In cooking them, cabbage for instance, 
the iron is set free from the organic 
molecule and is as digestible as saw 
filings. 

What are the effects of a famine in 
phosphorus? If it be conceded that 
phosphorus is a necessary nerve food, it 
follovv^s that the absence of it means 
nerve starvation and a consequent pro- 
portionate inability to perform any work 
requiring nervous energy. With chil- 
dren there would be imperfect develop- 
ment, a deficiency of the osseous struc- 
tures, and increasing nervous debility, 
among adults, neurasthenias, and in 
child-bearing women, in addition, evi- 
dence of direct absorption of the teeth 
and alveolar processes. 

"The starved nerve tells its tale of 
starA^ation through the language of 
neuralgia. Aching and enfeebled mus- 
cles remind us of slowness of tissue 
repair. Eruptions of the skin and 
catarrh of the mucous membrane show 
diminished nerve power in the tissues. 
Decaying and loosening teeth become 
evidences of unhealthfulness or the 
absorption of the osseous system. Thus 



302 



STARVING HUMANITY 



303 



will each tissue unmistakably demon- 
strate the condition of starvation in 
which it finds itself." (Nunn) 

Phosphorus enters largely into the 
basic structure of all the tissues, par- 
ticularly that of bone and nerve. Which 
food products are rich in phosphates? 
Legumes (pod foods) are the richest in 
phosphates of any foods; especially of 
lentils and beans is this true. But 
again the objection holds that in order 
to render them digestible legumes must 
be subjected to prolonged cookery, 
which process plays havoc with the 
salts, rendering them non-absorbable 
and non-assimilable. The same is true 
of sea foods which rank high in phos- 
phates. Entire wheat, rye and oats are 
rich in phosphates, but these are usually 
cooked. Eggs contain one-third as much 
phosphorus as legumes, but should be 
eaten raw in order to obtain the assim- 
ilable phosphates. Milk contains one 
fifth as much phosphates as legumes, but 
milk more often is boiled, coagulating 
the proteid molectde, which sets free the 
inorganic salts, thus rendering them, as 
to the iron and fluorine, unabsorbable ; 
as to the phosphates, imassimilable. 
Cabbage, spinach, celery, and cauli- 
flower rank the same as milk, but should 
be partaken of raw. Pine nuts, an 
edible nut grown in Sicily, obtainable 
on the markets, contains the same 
amount of phosphate .salts as legumes, 
and, moreover, are easily digestible 
and can be eaten raw. 

When there is a deflciency of lime 
salts the bony structures and teeth 
suffer. Mothers' teeth often decay when 
this element is scantily supplied in their 
food. This salt is readily supplied by 
spinach, lettuce, cabbage, raw onion 
and asparagus. 

Magnesium deflciency means muscle 
and bone hunger. Magnesium lends 
flexibility to the bones and elasticity to 
the muscles; it also neutralizes tissue 
acids. It is usually found in combination 
with phosphorus. By the use of spinach, 
lettuce, cucumber, and pine nuts, you 



can readily make up any deficiency of 
this salt. 

Potassium acts as a solid tissue base. 
It is to the muscles and softer tissue 
what calcium is to the bones. Its 
deficiency means scurvy and rickets. 
The richest of any food product in 
potassium salts is ripe olives, which 
heads the list. Next comes dried chest- 
nuts, then potato. All leaf and stem 
vegetables are rich in this salt. 

One of the most important tissue salts 
is organic sodium. It has a strong 
affinity for waste phosphoric acid, which 
it neutralizes, forming sodium phosphate. 
It combines loosely with carbonic di- 
oxide. It picks up from the blood waste 
sulphuric acid, forming sodium nitrate, 
uric acid, forming urate of sodium. Any 
deficiency of sodium salts interferes with 
tissue respiration. Carbon dioxide accu- 
mulates in the tissue cell, resulting in 
diseases of suboxidation, as obesity and 
rhetimatism. Vital forces are lowered, 
and anaemia and tuberculosis may 
follow. This salt is readily supplied in 
abundance by the use of spinach, 
radishes, apples, strawberries, dried or 
steamed figs and raw eggs. 

Sulphur is found in nail, hair, cuticle 
and muscle. 

Silica (sand) is present in the enamel 
of the teeth, hair, nails, cuticle and all 
connective tissue, and probably found 
in the sheath of nerve fibres. 

Chlorine is a component of hydro- 
chloric acid, a constituent of gastric 
juice. 

The last three salts need give but little 
concern, as they are well supplied in 
just those foods rich in other salts. To 
provide for any deficiency of the prin- 
cipal salts is to adequately provide for 
the proper amount required of these. 

Observe in glancing over the list of 
foods most abundant in natural salts, 
that they are found in greatest abun- 
dance in some form of leaf and stem 
vegetables, fruits, and nuts. And 
observe also that it is just this class of 
foods that can best be eaten without 



304 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



being subjected to some form of cookery. 

We herewith append a health salad, 
which is merely suggestive of how an 
appetizing dish may be provided that at 
once, is nutritious, a regulator of the 
bowels, and will supply all the tissue 
salts. This combination is open to 
many modifications that will suggest 
themselves to the fertile mind. 

Take a portion of raw spinach, lettuce, 
celery, carrots, apple, cranberry and 



pine nuts. Chop finely the first three, 
grate the carrots, chop the apple, add a 
few chopped cranberries to afford tart- 
ness, stir in the pine nuts, season with 
celery salt and serve with mayonnaise 
dressing. Spanish onion, ripe olives, 
cucumbers or cabbage may be used as 
substitutes. Because of the different 
colors of the ingredients here is afforded 
a splendid chance for garnishing and 
decorating. 



Some Pretty Salad Garnishes 



SALADS may be garnished in num- 
bers of ways that add greatly to 
their appearance, as well as to their 
taste. 

A simple garnish for individual por- 
tions of salad, may consist of a single 
olive, grape, cherry, cranberry, straw- 
berry, nut m.eat, tiny radish, date, 
marshmallow or a dot of jelly. 

Several pretty effects can be obtained 
with hard-cooked eggs. Cut in rings, 
they look very attractive on the top of a 
potato salad. The grated yolks look 
pretty on the top of meat or vegetable 
salads with an olive or a nut meat in the 
center. If something quite elaborate is 
desired, pond lilies can be imitated by 
cutting the whites in lengthwise strips 
to form petals, and using the grated 
yolks for the centers. 

A garnish of poinsettias may be 
imitated by cutting canned pimientoes 
into petal-hke strips and arranging them 
on the top of a salad. Lobster or 
chicken salad looks tempting with this 
garnish. 

The ring decoration on a salad is a 
pretty one. Rings may be cut from 
jelly, beets (cold, cooked ones), or pine- 
apple. A jelly ring should surround a 



sprig of mint, a beet ring a few stalks of 
tender asparagus, and pineapple a stalk 
of celery. 

Green peppers cut in strips make 
another garnish. 

Several combinations may be made 
in garnishing if desired. For instance, 
green peppers and pimientoes both 
taste and look well together. 

One of the prettiest salads, I ever saw, 
was made by a famous chef, who called 
it Christmas salad. He took a medium 
sized white cabbage, cut a generous slice 
off the top and scooped out the inside. 
On the outside, he peeled off several 
leaves to within three inches of the 
bottom. What remained of these leaves 
was slashed and curled into a fringe. 
The center of the cabbage was next 
filled with the salad proper, a mixture 
of nuts, celery, white grapes, marsh- 
mallows and mayonnaise dressing. Then 
the garnishing commenced. A dozen 
cranberries mounted on toothpicks were 
stuck into the cabbage around the 
opening. Grated cocoanut was thickly 
sprinkled over the top to imitate snow, 
and the final touch was a small cluster 
of white grapes on the very top. 

N.D.D. 



--'%S""2^^^ 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIEvSS' 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



New Discoveries 

THE latest meeting of the American 
Chemical Society brought out a 
number of scientific papers con- 
taining new discoveries of interest to 
housewives. 

It was reported, among other matters, 
that a most efficient method of removing 
iron stains from cloth is a 15 per cent 
solution of titanium trichlorid (Ti Clf.) 
applied cold to the rust spot. The 
reagent is, unfortunately, expensive. 
Methods more generally available are 
boiling for several minutes in solutions 
of potassium acid tartrate (cream of 
tartar), tartaric acid, or citric acid. 
Especially practical devices are boiling 
in the juice of grapefruit, pineapple, or 
rhubarb ; or in an infusion of the leaves 
and stems of the common begonia. 
All these have the advantage over the 
familiar hydrocloric or oxalic acids that 
they are less apt to injure fabric or color. 

For cleaning silverware by the new 
electrical method, sodium carbonate 
(washing soda) proves to be slightly 
more efficient than the bicarbonate 
(cooking soda). Also, aluminum for the 
electrode is a little more efficient than 
the customary zinc. 

A study of the action of acid foods on 
fifteen standard makes of enamelled 
ware showed a solution in the food of 
both lead and antimony. The lead, in 
general, amounted to less than two parts 
in a million ; but one sample of cranberry 
sauce showed seventy times this amount 
of antimony. Apparently, then, it is, 
on the whole, better to use some other 



sort of cooking utensil for very sour 
viands. 

"Ready made" Hamburg steak also 
proves something of a risk. Twenty 
samples bought in the open market 
showed, in more than half, above ten 
million bacteria to the cubic centimeter, 
about twenty times as many as in fairly 
decent milk. Meat ground to order, 
better still, ground at home, seems to be 
the part of wisdom. 

On the other hand, a detailed exam- 
ination of some hundreds of manufac- 
tured foods showed that reputable 
producers, now-a-days, virtually never 
adulterate or misbrand any of their 
goods, while *'the adulteration that 
represents a serious menace to health is 
practically non-existent." 

But the most suggestive paper of the 
meeting, from the point of view of the 
housekeeper, was an elaborate study of 
the "staling" of bread. It is well known 
that the spongy texture of good bread is 
due to the bubbles of carbon dioxid gas 
formed by the yeast. It is also well 
known that all hot gases contract greatly 
on cooling, and that carbon dioxid in 
particular is very much more soluble in 
cold water than in hot. 

When, therefore, bread fresh from 
the oven is cooled, the carbon dioxid of 
the open spaces shrinks to much less 
than its former volume, while at the 
same time this diminished quantity is 
still further reduced by solution in the 
moisture of the bread. The result is a 
partial vacuum within the loaf. Air is, 
therefore, sucked into the bread to fill 
the vacant space. 



305 



306 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



It now appears that the stahng of 
bread is caused by the action of the 
oxygen of this air on the proteins of the 
flour. But if the bread be kept in an 
atmosphere of carbonic acid, this gas 
will be drawn in instead of air, and no 
such action will occur. 

In practice, it is found sufficient merely 
to cool the bread in the carbon dioxid. 
The loaf then becomes filled with the 
inert gas, which only very gradually 
diffuses out and is replaced by air. 
Bread thus treated, instead of staling 
in a few hours, remains fresh for two or 
three weeks. 

The idea of the inventor is to apply 
the method commercially on a large 
scale, using the waste carbon dioxid 
from beer brewing. But it is obviously 
"up to" some ingenious housekeeper to 
work out the idea in the kitchen. 

Human Nutrition 

A well known study of the nutrition 
of a human infant showed that a thriving 
youngster of nine months was using 
seven-eighths of his food for his day's 
"work" and doing his growing on the 
remaining eighth. On that eighth, then, 
depends his proper development. Now 
comes one of the latest papers from the 
Carnegie Nutrition Laboratory in Boston 
to show that the effort in crying, fretting, 
and tossing about in discomfort may 
add as much as a fifth to the child's 
daily "work." In other words, the 
child may waste in useless pain more 
nutriment than he needs to grow on. 
Naturally, having spent this food on 
"work," he will not use it for develop- 
ment. And the moral is obvious. 

Manufacture of Salt 

A new process is being introduced 
into the manufacture of salt for removing 
the barium chlorid from the brine. 
Barium chlorid is decidedly poisonous, 
but heretofore it has been practicable to 
remove it completely from only a portion 
of each charging. This portion becomes 
the "dairy and table salt." The rest. 



unfit for human food, goes to freezing 

ice cream and other coarser uses. By 

the new process, virtually all the barium 

is eliminated from salt of all grades. 

E. T. B. 
* * * 

Scents That Cling 

WITH Autumn weather comes the 
need for getting out of "home 
storage" the heavier garments that were 
packed away in the warm days of Spring. 
Fortunate is the household in which the 
mother gets at them betimes, and gives 
them a good sun-and-wind bath before 
persuading husband and children ^ to 
wear them; for to many patient souls 
the necessity for coming in contact with 
the heavy reek of tar-balls is little other 
than misery. 

On looking over a magazine devoted 
to women-wants, and seeing a large 
receptacle of "tar-paper" illustrated, 
as a desirable cover for heavier tailored 
suit or party-wraps, one is apt to wonder 
how a personality surrounded with an 
"aura" of such odor will be likely to 
affect one's shopping, dinner, or theater- 
party companions. It is odd how women 
who insist on double doors between 
kitchen and living-room, lest odors pene- 
trate, — and who scoff at the idea of 
using any but odorless disinfectants for 
household purposes, will yet run amuck 
when it comes to be a question of "moth- 
balls," — the perfume from which will 
cling for months to a trunk or box, — 
and much longer to garments of wool ! 

While Autumn is not the season for 
packing away woolens, it must often be 
made the time for taking the wise reso- 
lution to eliminate one household nui- 
sance by thereafter packing heavy gar- 
ments of the sort attacked by moths in 
sealed receptacles of heavy, ww-scented 
paper. Many a household will be 
happier for it. 

Smooth Sauces 

Gravies or sauces thickened by pouring 
hot liquid of any sort on ''roux,'" (fat or 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



307 



butter and flour blended over the fire) 
are apt to lump more quickly than 
sauces where cold liquid is poured in and 
allowed to come gradually to boiling 
point with steady stirring. The lumpi- 
ness is caused by too rapid expansion of 
the starch cells in the flour, and is in 
direct ratio to the heat in the rdux and 
liquid at the moment of combination. 
If inconvenient to cool the liquid slightly 
before adding it to the cooked thickening, 
simply take the pan containing the 
latter from the fire, and allow it to cool 
for a minute, before stirring in the liquid. 
Then return to the fire, and stir to 
smooth, bubbling creaminess. 

About Tomatoes 

DISCOVERED: First, that even 
counting in the initial cost of the 
jars, — putting up one's own tomatoes 
in glass costs no more than buying the 
cheapest grade of "tin-canned" ones at 
the grocery store; while the expense, 
after one has a stock of glass jars, is 
absurdly tiny. 

Second: That the aforesaid glass jars, 
of good standard makes, can be bought, 
one or two at a time, at the five and ten 
cent stores, as needed, thus making it 
possible to lay in a stock by degrees. 

Third: That if there were no other 
advantage in putting up one's own 
tomatoes, it would pay, in the matter of 
convenience; as one can have part of 
one's supply in pint jars, instead of the 
quarts. The average grocer seldom or 
never carries anything but the full-sized 
cans of tomatoes, and a can once opened 
has to be used up at once, though only 
half of it may be required; but one's own 
little pint jars hold just enough for 
sauce, or to add to soup, and .the con- 
venience of them, to say nothing of the 
far superior quality, is beyond telling. 
* * * A. D. 

Glass Shelves 

WHERE it is desirable and where 
the shelves of the cupboard are 
deep and high enough to admit of it, a 



very nice auxiliary shelf may be easily 
constructed of a piece of plate glass, 
simply by standing it upon four glass 
candlesticks of same design and size. 
A small shelf like those used for bath 
rooms will very nicely hold a row o^ 
tumblers or goblets, and really adds that 
much to the capacity of the closet with- 
out seeming to crowd things. The shelf 
and supports being glass, they are hardly 
noticeable, and because they are glass, 
they are more suitable for holding glass 
things. The idea may be particularly 
adapted to a cabinet meant for the 
display of choice pieces of bric-a-brac, 
for in those cases the shelves are usually 
rather far apart and the articles to be 
shown are often very small and dainty 
and would look much better on a smaller 
shelf. 

IN a time of serious illness we learned 
one lesson as to quietness. We 
always thought we were very quiet and 
careful people in moving about the house, 
but necessity brought to our notice 
considerable noisy shutting of doors and 
heavy-heeled walking. A simple push- 
ing shut of a door, instead of turning the 
knob to bring the bolt into place, makes 
a great deal of unnecessary noise, and we 
have found the only way to have quiet- 
ness in case of need, is to have it at all 
times, by forming careful habits in these 
little things. If they are not formed 
and adhered to at all times, it will be 
absolutely impossible to get results when 
the need does come. A. J. 

* * * 

Burnt Edges for Place Cards 

INSTEAD of gilding the edges of 
place cards, or bordering them with 
double lines of black or red, or a wider 
wash of color, a new fashion is to simply 
burn the edges until they are charred to 
a soft brown. 

For this purpose use a lighted match, 
or a taper. A slightly wavering edge of 
color that sets off the card when placed 
on the table is thus produced, more 



308 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



distinctive than if a pale violet or blue is 
used to match or harmonize with the 
water color decoration upon the card. 

Some recently seen,having burnt edges, 
were decorated by a young girl, with 
violets for the ladies and butterflies for 
the men. The butterfly cards were 
especially unique because they were 
applied to the cards. The butterflies 
were first drawn and colored on water 
color paper. When cut out the reverse 
sides of the wings were painted; then 
the bodies were pasted upon the crease 
at the left-hand corner, and the wings 
bent up as if the butterflies had just 
alighted. The antennae were painted 
upon the card, but also might be simu- 
lated by being made with black thread; 
a short piece being pasted under the 
body and extending in two ends. This 
is not exactly art, but more of a toy, 
such as are often used for favors and 
place cards. Such things are pretty 
work for young girls and people who 
are semi-invalids. J- D- C. 

* * * 

Flower Holders 

WILL you please tell me what 
kind of flower holders you use? 
Such charmingly arranged flowers I 
never saw." This from a flattering 
friend, whom I had kept waiting a few 
minutes and who had time to view my 
handiwork. I was glad to have her 
appreciate it, for I had had such a good 
time over it myself. And my explana- 
tion dehghted her so much that I pass 
my idea on to other flower lovers. 

There are numerous flower holders in 
the shops, and I have tried many of 
them. But better than shop ones, I 
flnd these. I fill a vase, bowl or jar 
about two-thirds full of sand, then put 
in the water. In this sand I stick the 
flowers, one at a time, getting just the 
effect I want. They stand as nature 
meant them to — each blossom or cluster 
individually lovely. A low bowl with 
pansies is now on my little carved table 
— and a small green jar of golden butter- 



cups here on my desk. The flowers seem 
to keep fresh longer in the sand, and 
besides the sand gives weight to a vase 
or jar and fewer upsettings occur. 

This special sand is a souvenir of a 

happy day at the seashore. I washed 

it several times to get the salt out, and 

it promises to be a **joy forever." E.B.R. 

* * % 

For Christmas Presents 

The notion of preparing jellies, mar- 
malades and various sweet mixtures in 
the summer and storing them away for 
use as Christmas presents is by no means 
a new one, but there are methods of 
doing them up to give them a festive 
air that I have never seen noticed any- 
where. For instance one country woman 
sent her friends some jars over which 
firm white paper had been neatly pasted 
and on the top was her monogram done 
in blue with a tiny gold outline. Jars of 
goodies are always a delight, but the 
attractiveness of this was a surprise and 
made the gift additionally acceptable. 
A red and gold monogram on a currant 
jelly jar is sure to please and the cunning 
Httle strips of holly printed, paper 
ribbon are also good for tumblers of 
red jelly. The making of monograms 
at home is interesting, for one can 
experiment with cutting out a cardboard 
stencil until the desired effect is obtained. 
Children are often very quick about 
making such things and their results 
are sometimes surprisingly successful. 

For a Child's Party 

A pretty device for a child's party is 
to serve the ice cream in blocks and to 
cut out of the middle of each a piece, 
replacing it with a tiny bowl, made from 
a piece of cardboard turned up at the 
corners and having a lighted candle 
standing in it. This can be easily 
managed by dropping a bit of melting 
wax in the bottom of the bowl to hold the 
candle upright. The candles should be j 
lighted at the last moment and the 
cream served immediately with the lights 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



309 



in the chandeliers turned out. Any one 
who has seen the "illuminated ice cream" 
served on ocean steamers will remember 
what a fairy-land effect this produces and 
the children who have never seen it are 
sure to be wildly enthusiastic about it. 

For the Kitchen Table 

When the mistress of the house, the 
cook, or whoever happens to use the 
kitchen table most, is tall and the table 
is too low for her, an easy way of 
heightening it and avoiding back aches 
is to take four common door stops of the 
type that have a screw at one end and a 
piece of rubber on the other and screw 
one in the bottom of each of the table 
legs. This is far the quickest way; but 
we have found a most satisfactory and 
a still more stable method is to get four 
heavy blocks of exactly the right height 
and hollow out the centre of them a little 
at the top, letting the table legs stand in 
them. If you happen to cut down a 
medium-sized tree, sections of this are 
exactly right for purposes of experiment. 

Creole Dishes 

At one of the largest and most famous 
of New Orleans hotels, we were hunting 
through the breakfast menu for the 
Creole dishes for which that city is 
renowned. When * ' Creole cream cheese' ' 
greeted our eyes we at once pounced 
upon it and were amazed to find that it 
was nothing more nor less than a mould 
of carefully loppered milk served with 
cream and sugar upon it as a breakfast 
food. Professor Metchnikoff of the 
Pasteur Institute has proved that sour 
milk is not only wholesome but positively 
beneficial and it is so simple and appetiz- 
ing, leaving a clean fresh taste in the 
mouth, that we have been delighted to 
add it to our own list of possible break- 
fast dishes. M. V. 
* * * 

The Nasturtium Tea Porch 

I am a teacher of Domestic Science. 
This last spring I decided I wanted 



to earn some siunmer money. I 
thought of many plans, but for one 
reason or another, they did not prove 
feasible, until one day the idea of the 
Nasturtitmi Tea Porch came to me. 
I had heard of "tea-rooms," "tea- 
houses," so v/hy not a "tea-porch?" 

The porch was ideally situated a little 
off the main street, and Hterally in the 
tree tops, a sort of Peter Pan arrange- 
ment — for we had the upper apartment 
of a two story house. 

I had stored away a box of Japanese 
stencils, among them a nasturtium 
pattern. This I used until it was almost 
threadbare, printing 100 yellow tint 
sheets, on which I wrote a personal 
invitation as follows: "Miss X invites 
you to visit the Nasturtium Tea Porch 
from 3 to 6 P. M. Iced and hot tea, 
lemonade, ginger ale and homemade 
cakes and cookies will be served." 

I bought a plain pine board kitchen 
table which was enameled black, and 
then stenciled with a large nasturtium 
stencil, in bright reds, and yellow and 
green. I used the table uncovered and 
it was much admired. 

I used the plain green Japanese 
Sedjii ware, which makes any food or 
drink placed upon it look attractive. 

I had a gift of six glass straws, with 
green glass bowls. These added greatly 
to the enjoyment of an iced mint 
lemonade, or ginger ale. 

The tabulation of expenses for equip- 
ping the Tea Porch is given below : 



100 letters and delivery 
Table 


$1.50 
2.25 


100 paper napkins 
2 tea-pots (individual) 
2 dozen doilies 


.10 
.40 
.30 


6 iced-tea glasses 


.30 



$4.85 

The Tea Porch was equipped for less 
than five dollars, paid for itself, and 
gave me a fair profit and the satisfaction 
of carrying out an idea. A. C. H. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 3734. — "Receipe for Souffle 
Potatoes or fried potatoes that puff like toy 
balloons." 

Souffle Potatoes 

Pare smooth, even-shaped potatoes, 
cut them in thin slices and let soak in 
cold water about half an hour. Dry 
on a cloth and let cook in fat that is 
not very hot until soft, skim them from 
this fat and set to cook in fat at a 
higher temperature until delicately 
browned when some, at least, of the 
potatoes should be well-puffed. Not all 
the slices will puff. 



Query No. 3735. — "Recipe for Preserving 
Citron for table use also a recipe for Preserving 
Citron for use in cake and plum puddings." 

Citron Melon Preserve 

Cut the melons in quarters and the 
quarters in smaller pieces and remove 
the rind, then cut into such shapes as 
wished. Cover the prepared melon 
with cold water, adding two table- 
spoons of table salt to each quart of 
cold water; and let stand over night. 
Drain, rinse in cold water, drain again 
and let cook, till just tender, in boiling 
water. Drain again and weigh. For 
each pound of material allow three- 
fourths a pound of sugar, half an ounce 
of ginger stems and one lemon. Slice 
the lemons and discard the seeds; 
slice or crush the ginger stems and let 
cook separately in boiling water until 
tender. Make a syrup of the sugar 
and the water drained from the lemons 



and the ginger; skim, add the melon 
and let cook until plump and trans- 
parent; skim the melon from the syrup. 
To the syrup add the lemon and ginger 
and let cook until a rich syrup is formed ; 
add the citron, heat to boiling and 
store in jars. Glass or earthen jars may 
be used. 

Citron for Cake, etc. 

The citron used for cake and puddings 
is not prepared from the citron melon 
used for preserves, though pieces of 
citron drained from the syrup may be 
used in place of the citron of commerce. 



Query No. 3736.— "What should Food Cost 
per person per week for a family living com- 
fortably, having fruit and vegetables in season, 
or what proportion of an income of from 
$30.00 to $60.00 should be spent for food?" 

Cost of Raw Food Per Person 

Mrs. Ellen Richards in "The Cost of 
Living," published in 1905, says:"Only 
when the income of a family of five 
individuals, including servants, rises 
above four thousand dollars a year 
should an expenditure of fifty cents 
(per day) per person for raw food 
materials be looked upon with com- 
placency." To-day (October) an egg 
for breakfast costs .05, an orange, .06, 
thin cream for the cereal and coffee 
.10, which with the one item of .38 
for two chops or .25 or .30 for a bit of 
sirloin steak for dinner brings up the 
amount to more than .50, before the 



310 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



311 



list of materials for two of the meals 
is fairly begun. Probably $1.00, to-day, 
will not go as far as .50 in 1905. How- 
ever, at the present time there are 
more people than formerly who know 
how to provide a satisfactory table 
without dependence upon choice and 
expensive cuts of meat. Mrs. Richards 
also says: ''It is not the food actually 
eaten that costs so excessively, it is 
that wasted by poor cooking, by exces- 
sive quantity, and by purchase out of 
season, when the price is out of all 
proportion to its value." 



Query No. 3737. — "Recipes for Rum 
Omelet , Cheese Balls for Soup and Potato 
Dumplings." 

Rum Omelet 



6 eggs 

3 tablespoonfuls pow- 
dered sugar 
1-4 teaspoonful salt 



4 tablespoonfuls rum or 
lemon juice and water 
1 tablespoonful butter 
^ cup hot Jamaica rum 



The ingredients may be used in 
making either a French or a puffy 
omelet. For the first, beat the eggs 
with a spoon until a full spoonful can 
be lifted; beat in the sugar, salt, the 
rum or lemon juice; melt the butter in 
the hot pan (not hot enough to burn 
the butter) turning the pan to oil the 
whole surface; pour in the egg mixture, 
shake and tip the pan resting on the 
hot stove lid until the mixture is nearly 
"set" throughout; roll and turn upon 
a' hot platter, pour over the half 
cup of rum, made warm over the tea 
ketth, light it and send to the table 
at once. 

If a puffy omelet is desired, beat the 
whites unt'l very light and the yolks 
until thick; add the sugar, salt, rum 
or lemon juice to the yolks, mix and 
pour over the whites; cut and fold the 
two together and turn upon a hot, 
buttered pan; set the pan into a very 
moderate oven until the mixture is 
set throughout (about half an hour) 
cut across the top, fold at the cutting, 
turn onto a hot dish, pour over the 
rum and light as before. 



Cheese Balls for Soup 

3 tablespoonfuls con- \\ cup flour 
somme or milk ll egg unbeaten 

1^ teaspoonfuls butter [2 tablespoonfuls grated 
I teaspoonful salt | Parmesan cheese 

Add the butter and salt to the liquid; 
heat to the boiling point directly 
over the fire, sift in the floin-, and stir 
to a smooth paste that forms a ball; 
turn into a cool dish, beat in the egg 
thoroughly, then the cheese; drop in 
round pieces from the tip of a teaspoon 
into hot fat; fry as doughnuts, and 
drain on soft paper; pass for each to 
serve himself as they soften quickly 
in hot soup. 

Query No. 3738. — "Recipe for Potato 
Dumplings." 

Potato Dumplings 

1^ cups flour 13 teaspoons butter 

5 teaspoonfuls baking || cup riced potato 

powder |1 egg beaten light 

I teaspoonful salt || cup milk (about) 

Sift together the flour, baking powder 
and salt; work the butter into the 
mixture; mix the milk, beaten egg and 
potato thoroughly and use in stirring 
the flour mixture to a dough. Turn 
upon a floured board and knead slightly ; 
roll into a sheet and cut into rounds. 
Set close together in a buttered steamer 
and let steam over a kettle of boiling 
water or meat about flfteen minutes. 
Do not open the steamer during the 
cooking, nor allow the water to stop 
boiling:. 



Query No. 3739. — "What name is given to 
Pie when it is served with ice cream?" 

Pie a la Mode 

When pie — usually apple or blue- 
berry — is served with ice-cream above 
it, it is called Pie a la Mode. 

Query No. 3740. — "At a Luncheon when are 
Finger Bowls set on the table?" 

Finger Bowls at Luncheon 

When fruit is served as the first 
course of the luncheon, finger bowls are 
set in place when the table is laid; 
otherwise the finger bowls are not set 



312 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



upon the table until the serving of the 
sweets. 



Query No. 3741. — "When are Baked Apples 
served?" 

Time for Serving Baked Apples 

Baked apples, either hot or cold, are 
served as a first or last course at Break- 
fast. They are also served as a dessert 
with sugar and cream at luncheon or 
dinner. They are also included in 
supper dishes. 

Query No. 3742. — "What should be served 
with the Meat Course at a Luncheon?" 

What to Serve with Meat at 
Luncheon 

A short answer cannot be written 
out for the above question. What is 
appropriate with one meat dish may 
not be so with another. Also the 
season of the year and the social status 
of the family would influence the choice. 
A general rule might be, serve one 
starchy vegetable and one green vege- 
table. 



Query No. 3743. — "Where may Food Exhibits 
for Schools be procured?" 

Food Exhibits for Schools 

Food exhibits for schools are put up 
by manufacturers of food products 
whose specialty is a food or a food 
adjunct that may be put up in an 
attractive form for exhibition, also it 
must be such an article as may be 
preserved in good condition for an 
indefinite period. Some manufacturers 
of baking powders and dealers in spices 
prepare such exhibits. 



Query No. 3744. — "Recipe for Caramels. 

Caramels 



2| cups sugar 

1 cup red label Karo 

^ cup butter 



2| cups rich milk 
1 teaspoonful vanilla 
1 cup English walnut 
meats 



Set the sugar, karo, butter and one 
cup of the milk over the fire and stir 
constantly; after the mixture has boiled 
a few minutes, gradually stir in the rest 



of the milk. Stir occasionally while 
continuing the cooking to about 248° F. 
(hard ball). Add the vanilla and nuts 
a,nd turn into two well-buttered pans. 
When nearly cold cut in cubes. 



Query No. 3745. — "Recipe for Spice Cake 
suitable for a high altitude." 

Spice Cake (high altitude) 

i cup butter 
f cup sugar 
3 egg yolks 
i cup milk 
1^ cups flour 



1 2 teaspoonfuls baking 

I powder 
1 teaspoon cinnamon 
^ teaspoonful mace 
\j teaspoonful cloves 
3 egg-whites 



Cream the butter, beat in the sugar, 
the yolks, beaten light, the milk, flour 
sifted with the baking powder and 
spices and, lastly, the egg-whites beaten 
very light. Bake in a loaf about 45 
minutes, in a sheet about 25 minutes. 



Query No. 3746. — "Recipe for Cheese 
Muffins suitable for high altitudes." 

Cheese Mufifins (high altitude) 

A recipe for cheese muffins was given 
on page 536 of the February 1916 
issue of the magazine. If this recipe 
should not work successfully, we will 
suggest something different. Possibly 
it might be advisable to cut out one 
tablespoonful of the shortening. 

Query No. 3747. — "Recipes for use of 
Canned Shrimps, Shad, and Turtle." 

Canned Shad, with Mushrooms 

Remove all bones possible without 
breaking up the fish over much. Set 
the fish in a shallow au gratin dish. 
For a can of fish, peel about eight 
fresh mushroom caps, and saute these 
in a tablespoonful of butter ; add a cup of 
thin cream and let simmer six minutes; 
season with salt and pepper. Pour the 
mushrooms and cream over the fish, 
cover and set into the oven for a few 
minutes. Serve very hot. 

Canned Shad Croquettes 



^ cup butter 

I cup flour 

1 cup milk or stock 

I cup cream 



|1 egg, beaten light 

1 1 teaspoonful salt 

\l teaspoonful paprika 

12 cups flaked shad 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



The Thanksgiving Dessert 



How all eyes brighten when 
they see Grandma's mince pie! 
It is a tempting sight, giving 
to the home coming an appetizing reminder of past Thanksgiving feasts. Made with Crisco 
a mince pie is a real delicacy. The lower crust is as tender as the flaky brown top that covers 
it. Just as good and wholesome as it looks, it is easily digested. 



(risco 

^. FopFivring-Foi'ShorleniDa 
^h»«'- /b/ Cake Making 



4 tart apples 
% cupful raisins 
% cupful currants 



Use Crisco for shortening if you wish the lightest, most delicious pastry you ever ate. 
Crisco is an all vegetable product, having neither odor nor taste. It is the cream of 
edible oil, pure and delicate and gives only richness to foods. 

Crisco Mince Pie 

In Making Both Pastry and Filling Use Accurate Level Measurements 
for Pastry 
IK cupfuls flour 1 teaspoonful salt M cupful Crisco 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls water 
Sift the flour and salt and cut the Crisco into the flour with two knives until it is finely 
divided. Then add the water sparingly, mixing it with a knife through the dry materials. 
Form into a dough, roll on a floured board to about K inch in thickness. Use a light 
motion in handling the rolling pin, and roll from the center outward. The Crisco should 
be of such consistency that when scooped out with a spoon it rounds up egg-shaped. 
In making pastry it is advisable to use pastry flour. Brush over the lower crust with a 
little beaten egg white before adding the mince meat. (The egg forms a hard surface 
between the crust and filling but does not prevent crUst from baking properly.) Bake 
in hot oven. 

For Filling 
1 tablespoonful chopped citron ^ teaspoonful nutmeg 
X cupful Crisco J4 teaspoonful cloves 

}4 teaspoonful cinnamon 3 tablespoonfuls sugar 

34 cupful cider 
Chop apples, raisins, currants, citron 
and Crisco together until quite fine. 
Add spices, sugar and cider. Mix well 
together. Cover closely, and, to ripen, 
let stand several hours before using. 
(If desired, in place of the cider, one 
tablespoonful brandy and ^ cupful 
sherry may be used.) 

Send for "The Whys of Cooking'* 

Many housewives are thankful, among 
other things, for the household helps 
they have found in Janet McKenzie 
Hill's new book "The Whys of Cook- 
ing". Many of your own perplexing 
problems will doubtless be found 
among the questions she asks and an- 
swers in this handsome addition to the 
Crisco Library. It contains 150 new 
recipes and the interesting Story of 
Crisco. Bound and illustrated in color. 
Makes a fine gift book. We will send 
it to you for five 2-cent stamps. Worth 
much more. Write Dept. A-11, 
The Procter & Gamble 
Co., Cincinnati, O. 





4 

I 






Sisco'l 



O'/'^/f/, 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
313 



314 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Melt the butter; in it cook the flour; 
add the liquid and stir until boiling; 
add the egg and stir and cook until the 
egg is "set"; add about two cups of 
fish freed from all bones, mix lightly 
and turn on a plate. When cold form 
into croquettes. A ball is the shape 
from which all others are evolved. 
Roll in soft, sifted bread crumbs, 
cover with an egg beaten and diluted 
with about four tablespoonfuls of milk, 
and again roll in crumbs. When ready 
to fry, roll the croquettes again on the 
board to remove superfluous crumbs. 
Fry about one minute in deep fat. 
Drain on soft paper. Serve at once. 
Canned shrimps broken in pieces make 
good croquettes. 

Canned Shrimp Salad, No. 1 

Use one can of shrimps. Remove 
the black thread running through the 
shrimps arid bits of shell, if present, and 
let chill thoroughly. Also let chill two 
or three hard-cooked eggs. Break the 
shrimps in two or three pieces, each; 
cut the eggs in thin slices. Dispose the 
shrimps and eggs on a bed of heart- 
leaves of lettuce. Pour French dressing 
over the whole and serve at once. 
For the dressing stir half a cup of olive 
-oil, four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of paprika and a teaspoonful 
or more of scraped onion pulp until 
thickened slightly and well blended. 
If preferred the dressing may be poured 
over the eggs and shrimps and, after 
these are chilled and well seasoned, the 
dressing may be drained off, the eggs 
and shrimps set on heart-leaves of 
lettuce and the whole garnished with 
mayonnaise dressing. Shad, tuna fish, 
salmon etc., may be used in place of 
the shrimps. 

Canned Shrimp Salad, No. 2. 

Set part of a head of choice cabbage 
in ice-water to chill. Drain, dry on a 
cloth and cut in very fine shreds. Make 
a layer of the] prepared cabbage on 



serving dish; set shrimps and eggs, 
prepared as above, on the cabbage 
and pour French or mayonnaise dressing 
over all. Or pour the dressing over the 
shrimps and cabbage and garnish with 
the eggs, sliced or cut in eighths, length- 
wise of the egg. Capers may be sprinkled 
over the whole. Shad and other canned 
fish may replace the shrimps. 

Clear Green Turtle Soup 

Have ready five cups of rich broth, 
made of beef and chicken or veal, 
flavored with celery, onion, parsley, 
carrot and two or three leaves of sweet 
basil, if available. The broth must be 
freed of all fat. To this add the liquid 
from a can of clear green turtle (the 
part of young turtles adjoining the 
shell) and the slightly beaten whites 
of two eggs, with the crushed shells, 
and the thin yellow rind of half a 
lemon. Stir constantly until the liquid 
boils up vigorously, let simmer five 
minutes, then draw to a cooler part of 
the range to settle. Strain through a 
napkin wrung from hot water. Add the 
green turtle, cut in small cubes, and 
reheat without boiling, when it is ready 
to serve. If desired, at the last moment 
before serving add three or four table- 
spoonfuls of Madeira wine. The soup 
is often served without clarifying with 
the whites of eggs. 



Query No. 3748. — "Kindly publish recipes 
for the use of Green Peppers." 

Uses for Green Peppers 

.Shredded green peppers are a wel- 
come addition to almost any salad, ,, 
whether it be composed of green salad .■ 
plants or cooked vegetables, fish or 'S 
meat. Put into the pickle jar, the ^^fl 
pungent varieties are an aid in the 
preservation of the pickles. A green 
or red pepper of any variety, cut in 
pieces if large, is good in any variety of 
stew or ragout and fine-chopped peppers 
are relished in corned beef or other 
variety of hash. Sweet peppers stuffed 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




So 

easy to wash 



J 



And so easy to \ee§ clean! 

Food does not burn in Pyrex. It cannot absorb grease 
nor odors. It does not crack, chip nor craze — even in the 
hottest oven. Nothing can penetrate its polished surface. 
No speck remains unseen. Think how all this reduces the 
drudgery of dishwashing. 



PYREX 



Transparent 

Oven-Ware 



TRADC MARK REG. 



Has the ixame on every piece 

Use Pyrex three times a day — for every meal. Bake in Pyrex- Serve 
in Pyrex- Practically everything that is baked in the oven is better and 
more quickly baked in Pyrex-^— baked apples, shirred eggs, meat loaf, bread, 
pies, cakes, all casserole dishes and puddings — in fact most of the daily 
household dishes. As one woman wrote us "I have Pyrexed my kitchen." 

Many shapes and sizes from ramekins at 15c to large casseroles at ^2. 
Dealers in house- wares everywhere sell Pyrex- Ask them for booklet. 

CORNING GLASS WORKS, 113 Tioga Ave. 

CORNING, N. Y., U. S. A. Established 1868 



Buy advertised Goods 



Do not accept substitutes 
315 



316 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



with meat, fish, rice etc., are considered 
a choice entree. 

Green Peppers, Stuffed 

3 green peppers 4 cooked mushrooms 

1 slice mild onion | teaspoonful parsley 

1 tablespoonful butter | cup raw sausage 

1 tablespoonful cooked I teaspoonful salt 

ham I cup soft bread crumbs 

1 tablespoonful flour ^ cup butter, melted 

^ cup broth f cup cracker crumbs 

Put the peppers in boiHng water; 
after two or three minutes remove and 
with a cloth rub off the outer skin; 
cut each in halves, lengthwise, and 
remove seeds and veins. Chop fine 
the onion, ham, mushrooms and parsley. 
Melt the butter, add the chopped in- 
gredients and stir a few minutes; 
add the flour, stir until blended, then 
add the broth and stir until boiling; 
add the sausage and salt; stir until 
well mixed, then let cook about ten 
minutes, stirring occasionally; add the 
bread crumbs and use to fill the half- 
peppers. Mix the cracker crumbs 
through the melted butter and spread 
over the mixture in the peppers. Bake 
until the crumbs are browned. 

Oysters Scalloped in Green 
Peppers 

Cut green peppers in such a manner 
that they will form a receptacle or 
case for cooking. Pour boiling, salted 
water over the peppers and let cook 
three minutes. Drain and set into a 
baking dish. Fill the peppers with 
alternate layers of oysters seasoned 
with salt and paprika and buttered 
cracker crumbs. Have the last layer 
buttered crumbs. Let bake about 
fifteen minutes. Creamed fish, oysters 
or chicken may be used to fill the 
peppers. Cover with buttered crumbs 
and bake until the crumbs are browned. 
The pepper is to be eaten with the 
filling. 

Green Peppers Stuffed with Rice 
and Onions 

Prepare the peppers as above. For 
six peppers have ready about one cup 



and a half of cream or tomato sauce, 
half a cup of rice, blanched and cooked 
tender and three mild onions boiled 
tender. Cut the onions in bits and 
mix with about one-third of the sauce. 
Fill the onions with alternate layers 
of the prepared onions and rice. Cover 
the top with buttered cracker crumbs 
(one-third cup butter to one cup crumbs) . 
Let bake until the crumbs are browned. 
Turn the rest of the sauce around the 
peppers and serve at once. 

Strange but True 

Everybody can share the delight 
which the Sacred Heart Review provides 
in this convincing tale of the philo- 
sophical professor: 

"It is a strange thing," said the pro- 
fessor. "I was shaved this morning by 
a man who really is, I suppose, a little 
above being a barber. I know of my 
own knowledge that he is an alumnus 
of one of the leading American colleges; 
that he studied in Heidelberg, after- 
ward, and spent several years in other 
foreign educational centers. I know, 
also of my own knowledge, that he has 
contributed scientific articles to our 
best magazines and has numbered among 
his intimate friends men of the highest 
social and scientific standing in Europe 
and America. And yet," soliloquized 
the professor, "he can't shave a man 
decently. ' ' 

"By Jove!" explained young Rounder, 
in astonishment. "What is he a barber 
for, with all those accomplishments?" 

"Oh, he isn't a barber," said the pro- 
fessor, yawning. "You see, I shaved 
myself this morning." 

"Bang!" went the rifles at the ma- 
noeuvres. "Oo-oo!" screamed the pretty 
girl — a nice, decorous, surprised little 
scream. She stepped backward into the 
arms of a young man. "Oh!" said she, 
blushing. "I was frightened by the 
rifles . I beg your pardon. " " Not at all, " 
said the young man. "Let's go over and 
watch the artillery." — Tit- Bits. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



A Waffle Recipe Worth Keeping 



4 level teaspoonfuls RYZON; 
2 level cups (>i lb.) flour; Yi level 
teaspoonf ul salt ; 2 eggs ; 1 j^ cups 
(^ pint) milk; 4 tablespoonfuls 
melted butter; maple syrup. 

Mix flour with RYZON 
and salt, and sift them into 
a bowl. Beat yolks of eggs, 
add butter and milk. Add 
this mixture gradually to 
dry ingredients, beating 
thoroughly. When well 
mixed, fold in the stiffly 
beaten egg whites. Pour 
from a pitcher into the cen- 
ter of a hot, well-greased 
waffle iron. Other fat may 
be used in place of butter, 
but the waffles will not 
brown as well. 





You are sure to get excel- 
lent results from any good 
baking recipe if you use 



THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER 

A long-felt want is filled by the RYZON 
Baking Book, the first accurate baking manual 
ever produced. From the recipes of 10,000 
women the best were taken, thoroughly tested 
and measurements standardized. The 
RYZON Baking Book is priced at $1.00, 
unless obtained through your grocer. If he 
cannot supply it, send $1.00, for which we 
will mail you the RYZON Baking Book and 
a 35c one-pound can of RYZON, postpaid. 
Satisfaction guaranteed. 

GENERALClHEMieAL^Q 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 
NEW YORK 



10, 18 and 
35 cents 



RYZON is made 
with a new and better 
phosphate. 

Man cannot live 
without phosphates in 
his food. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
317 



ii =: iiSi ill i » I 

^ilsiilifilllillilll! 



;aiiiilliii»H 



^^^ool^ 






True Food Values and Their Low Costs, 
By W. S. BiRGE, M.D., 12 mo. 
Cloth, Net $.50; Sully and Klein- 
teich, New York. 

The author tells how to simplify the 
art of living so as to cut the cost and 
get one's money's worth, yet be physi- 
cally efficient. No important phase 
of the food question is left untouched. 
Food values are carefully analyzed, and 
the proper proportion of foods dis- 
cussed. The art of wholesome cooking 
is set forth in a way that many an 
expensive cook book fails to do. 

A plainer, simpler and more sensible 
presentation of food value can not 
possibly be found in the same space. 
The entire contents are readable, read- 
ily grasped and comprehended by the 
average mind. This is saying much of 
a book of this kind, many of which are 
written by chemists and so called food 
experts. It is not unpleasant to come 
across once in a while a writer who 
recognizes the appetite and the part it 
has played and always will play in the 
way of wholesome nutrition. This 
book will please and satisfy many 
readers because it is within their grasp. 

A Course in Household Ar^5, By Loretto 
Basil Duff, Part I, cloth, pp. xvi+ 
301 Net $1.10, Whitcomb & Bar- 
rows ; Boston, Mass. 
In this book, each topic has been 
treated more fully than in any of the 
many text-books already available. The 
reason is given for every method or 
process employed. Many authorities 
have been consulted, in order to give 
the latest and most trustworthy infor- 



mation. Clearness and accuracy have 
not been sacrificed to brevity. 

The recipes given are simple, and 
suitable for use by beginners of any 
grade, making the book desirable for 
work in the grammar school. 

Designed primarily for beginners, the 
lessons have, through a teaching exper- 
ience of several years, proved satis- 
factory in grammar, secondary, and 
higher classes. The use of the book as 
a text for the pupil is especially recom- 
mended for high and normal schools. 

While instruction in Home Economics 
by an untrained teacher is a practice 
to be abandoned at the earliest moment 
possible, it is employed in some com- 
munities that are feeling their way 
towards the introduction of this subject. 
If such a policy must be pursued, '*A 
Course in Household Arts" will do 
much to train the teacher as she pre- 
pares the lessons. 

Here, evidently is a thoroughly and 
conscientiously prepared text book. The 
lessons have been tried out and improved 
by use for many years in the Boston 
Schools of Cookery and elsewhere. 
Teachers of Household Arts will find 
needful instruction and help in a work 
like this. 

Clothing for Women, By Laura I. 
Baldt, 7 colored plates. 262 illus- 
trations in text. 454 pages. 8 vo. 
Net, $2.00.; J. B. Lippincott Com- 
pany, Philadelphia. 
For the woman or girl who does all 
or part of her own, or her family's 
sewing, this book will prove a guide in 
her actual constructive work, a fund of 



318 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BELL'S SEASONING 

For Nearly Fifty years preferred by Chefs, 
CooRs and Housekeepers to flavor Dressings 
for Meat, Game, Fish and Poultry. 
Insist upon BELU5 the Original 

A NICE TURKEY DRESSING.— Toast 7 or 8 slices of white bread. 
Place in a deep dish, adding butter the size of an egg. Cover with hot 
water or milk to melt butter and make bread right consistency. Add 
one even tablespoon of Bell's Seasoning and one even teaspoon 
salt. When well mixed stir in one or two raw eggs. For goose or 
duck add one raTir onion chopped fine. 

Equally good when baked in small disli and served separately. 

JELLIED MEATS OR FOWL.— One pint of cold meat or fowl, 1 
teaspoon Bell's Seasoning, V4 teaspoon salt, liquid enough to fill pint 
mould. Add to liquid when hot, Itablespoon granulated gelatine. Cool and 
serve on abase of lettuce leaves over which thin sliced lemon is placed. 

Herbert S. Joslin, Manager Hotel Cecil, Medicine Hat, Alberta. Canada, writes : 
"THE POULTRY AND SAUSAGE SEASONING reached us O. K. and almost every 
daywe enjoy it m some form. My Chinese chef is quite delighted at the many compliments on 
his Turkey Dressing and home-made Sausage cake. You'll hear from us soon as we need more." 

For delicious Sausage flavor as directed, eitlier witli Beil's Spiced Poultry Seasoning, 
Bell's New England Sausage Seasoning, or Bell's White Sausage Seasonng. 

Fifteen Valuable Cooking Recipes on Receipt of Postal. Our Seasoning of your Grocer or by Parcel Post. 

MADE ONLY BY THE WILLIAM G. BELL COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 



WHITE HOUSE 



^^BM 



iMi 



iM&^iiD 



^I^^^KMH: 



A39iM 



KHiTE mmi 



lit 






In our campaign for a '^Better Cup of 
Coffee * ' we need the assistance of the 
intelligent housewife to the end that 
the splendid material furnished by us 
under the name of "White House" be 
not spoiled in the brewing. 

The WHITE HOUSE COFFEE is sold 
in the bean, ground or pulverized, and nether 
in any package but the one, two, or three- 
pound ALL' TIN cans. White House TEA, 
quarter and half-pound ALL-TIN cans, all 
varieties, just as good as White House Coffee. 

DWINELL- WRIGHT CO. 



Principal Coffee Roasters 



BOSTON-CHICAQO 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
319 



320 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



information concerning the prices and 
values of materials, a deal of interesting 
suggestions upon design, color and the 
art of dress, and much relief from prob- 
lems concerned with the saving of 
income, by the author's information 
upon how a woman should plan her 
budget. 

A wise spender makes a valuable wife 
or mother. Abundant opportunity to 
learfi to become a wise spender awaits 
a woman in the field of clothing. In 
forming your wardrobe you purchase 
before you sew, and it is for this reason 
that the first part of this excellent book 
is devoted to "how and what to buy." 
In buying either materials or ready- 
made garments, a woman should under- 
stand fabrics: the text and clear illus- 
trations give all the information neces- 
sary. 

The second part is devoted to the 
principles and problems of clothing 
design in relation to the individual, 
color, pattern, and the use of patterns. 
We should not think of our clothing 
merely as a covering for the body, 
nor will we after reading the stimulating 
revelations of line and form, color and 
composition in dress, presented in these 
chapters. 

The construction of clothing is the 
subject of the third part. For the benefit 
of those who have forgotten or perhaps 
have never known the fundamental 
stitches, a brief review, with many 
illustrations of the various stitches, is 
given. There then follow the methods 
of making in the home all kinds of 
under, outer, and over-garments. There 
are two chapters upon decoration, em- 
bodying all manner of trimmings and 
embroidery. 

In extent, variety and scope, there 
is no book that is superior to this. It 
is just the one that is needed to make 
the work of a woman in her home more 
satisfying and worth while. All manner 
of details are considered, such as the 
proper tools, the use of pattern maga- 
zines, the housewife's proper method of 
making her budget, etc., etc. 



The illustrations throughout are new 
and have been made from especially 
prepared models. Each one particularly 
illustrates the subject under con- 
sideration. An especial feature is the 
list of questions and exercises at the 
end of every chapter. 

We desire neither to add to nor sub- 
tract from the foregoing description of 
this book. 

Culinary Echoes from Dixie, By Kate 
Brew Vaughn; Price, Cloth, $1.00 
net; The McDonald Press, Cincin- 
nati, Ohio. 
This book is a little out of the line of 
the average cookbook. It contains both 
the ordinary and, perhaps, some extra- 
ordinary Southern recipes as well as 
many contributed from other sections 
of the country. It also holds other 
matter that recommends it. The com- J 
piler is a woman of excellent training and 
wide and long experience in teaching 
culinary science and domestic economy. 



"Ever tempted to sell your automo- 
bile?" asked the Cheerful Idiot. "The 
temptation is strong enough," replied 
Mr. Inbad, "but there are too many 
points involved. You know I mort- 
gaged my house in order to buy the ma- 
chine." "Yes, I knew that." "Well, I 
mortgaged the machine in order to build 
the garage, and now I've had to mort- 
gage the garage in order to buy gaso- 
line." — Puck. 



—The Daily Use in the Home of — 
Vlatts Chlorides . 

TheOdorlessDisinfectant 

Is not a Luxury but 
a Necessity 

It Protects Health and 
Prevents Sickness 

Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents Sold Erery where 






ADVERTISEMENTS 



KNOX 

Sparkling 
GELATINE 



^ Each 
Package 



Pints 




Jellx. 



ORANGE CHARLOTTE 



^ envelope Knox 

Sparkling Gelatine 
^ cup cold water 
^ cup boiling water 
1 cup sugar 



2 tablespoonfuls lemon 

juice 
1 cap orange juice and 

pulp 
Whites of three eggs 



Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes and 
dissolve in boiling water. Add sugar, and when 
dissolved, add lemon juice. Cool slightly and add 
orange juice and pulp. When mixture begins to 
stiffen, beat, using wire whisk, until light; then 
add whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, and beat 
thoroughly. Turn into mold that has been dipped 
in cold water and if desired line mold with lady 
fingers or sponge cake. One pint whipped cream 
may be used in place of whites of eggs. Other 
fruits or nuts may be added. 

APPLE CHARLOTTE 

Make same as Orange Charlotte, using cooked 
apple pulp in place of orange juice and pulp. 

Each package of Knox 
Sparkling Gelatine makes four 
times as much jelly as the so- 
called ready prepared kind. 

Besides jelly, Knox Gelatine 
makes Salads, Puddings, 
Candies, etc. 

Hundreds of pleasing uses for it 
suggested in our 

LATEST RECIPE BOOK 

Sent FREE for your grocer's 
name. If you wish a pint sample, 
enclose 2c stamp. 

CHAS. B. KNOX CO., Inc. 

407 Knox Ave., Johnstown, N.Y. 




■ 

I 



Don't 



lllll 



I Say Merely 



emons 



99 I 



When you want lemons from 
your dealer, say "Sunkist," and 
look for that name on the 
wrapper. 

Then you'll get lemons like this: 

Practically^ seedless — they slice better. 

Juicy, tart, full-flavored — one of Cali- 
fornia's finest fruits. 

Picked by gloved hands, scrubbed 
with brushes, and packed and shipped 
in sanitary tissue wrappers in which the 
dealer will deliver them to you if you 
request it. And these wrappers are 
good for beautiful silverw^are premiums. 




California s Selected 
Practically Seedless 

Lemons 

Their attractive color makes them 
very appetizing in appearance — the 
ideal garnish for fish, game and meats; 
or to serve with tea. 

They cost no more than ordinary 
lemons. For you, too, there'll be "no 
other lemons" once you try this brand. 

All dealers sell them. 

California Fruit Growers Exchange 

Co-operative— Non-profit 
Dept. 69 Los Angeles. Cal. 



I 

■ 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
321 



The Silver Lining 



A Song of the Ashes 

Said a Hubby to his wife, 
Whom he loved with all his life, 
"I'll get up and make the fire, 
Rest thou till the sun is higher 
Every morning." 

Heeds he not her sweet pl-otests, 
But in lordly way suggests 
That her little hands would tire, 
If she built that kitchen fire 
In the morning. 

So she waits till off he goes, 
Then she dons her working clothes, 
And her "little hands" are aching. 
While her back is nearly breaking 
All the morning — ^ 

Cleaning up the ashes, cinders 
And the clinkers and the flinders. 
Hubby left all scattered o'er, 
From the ceiling to the floor 
In the morning. 

And the birds seem sweetly singing 
(She can hear their voices ringing) 
"Oh, the ashes Hubby splashes, 
'Ere away to work he dashes. 
In the morning." 




OBLONG RUBBER BUTTON 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

The Oblong Rubber 
Button is an exclusive 
feature of Velvet Grip 
goods. This most im- 
portant modern improve- 
ment in hose supporters has 
taken the place of the old- 
fashioned round button. It 
is a cushion of solid live 
rubber, and because of its 
large holding surface it pre- 
vents tearing and drop 
stitches. 

Buy corsets having the hose 
supporters with the Oblong 
Rubber Buttoo. 

Sample set of four 
"Sew-ons" for women, 
50 cents, postpaid. 
Sample pair of "Pin- 
ons" for children, 15 
cents postpaid [give 
age]. Sample pair of 
"Baby Midgets" for 
infants— lisle, 10 cents; 
silk, 1 5 cents, postpaid. 

g GEORGE FROST COMPANY, MAKERS, BOSTON 

fillilllllllllllllllllllllllllli^ 




Discovering a Star 

Long had he worshipped her at a 
distance, but his shyness prevented 
him from proposing. So the Chicago 
News story beigns. 

Then, one evening, for the sweet 
sake of charity, a theatrical performance 
took place, in which the charmer was 
leading lady and more adorable than 
ever. Afterward the shy admirer 
drew near his love, made valiant by the 
sight of her beauty. 

"You are the star of the evening," 
he said, as they stood alone in a corner. 

"You are the first to tell me so," said 
the damsel, with a happy blush. 

"Then," he retorted promptly, "may 
I claim my reward as an astronomer?" 

The lady looked puzzled. 

"What reward?" she asked. 

"Why, the right to give my name to 
the star I have discovered!" said the 
young man, speaking boldly at last. 



Insuring Friendships 

A truly Irish invention for friendship's 
sake is cast into dialogue form by the 
Western Christian Advocate: 

O'Toole: "Phwat's the matter that 
ye didn't spake to Mulligan just now? 
Have ye quarreled?" 

O'Brien: "That we have not. That's 
the insurance av our friendship." 

O'Toole: "Phwat do ye mane?" 

O'Brien: "Sure, it's this way. MulH- 
gan an' I are that devoted to wan 
another that we can't bear the idea of a 
quarrel; an' as we are both moighty 
quick-tempered we've resolved not to 
spake to wan another at all, for fear 
we break the frindship." 



Sassafras Lore 

A certain Kentucky politician says, 
in the Saturday Evening Post, that when 
he was a boy in Owen County, on the 
edge of the Blue Grass District, the 
local oracle made a habit of sitting in a 



322 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Have You Tried Sea Moss Farine ? 

Justtry it once, that's all. Then you will ^noo? why so many people 
use it regularly and will take no substitute. Besides Blanc Mange 
you can easily make many tempting desserts such as Jellies, Ice 
Cream, Puddings, Hot and Cold Beverages. Here is the proof. 



Lyon Mfg. Co., ' 48 Winthrop St., Roxbury, JMass., Aug. 1, 1916. 

Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Gentlemen : 

After seeing your advertisement of Sea Moss Farine in my daily paper I purchased 
a package of my grocer and would like to send a word of appreciation for 3'our arti- 
ticle. 1 have had blanc mange for a dessert for several j^ears past, but have alwaj^s 
made it with the regular sea moss. I was pleased to try 3'ours and to obtain such 
very satisfactory results, in a much easier and cleaner way of making it. I thought 
the blanc mange was most delicious and shall make it hereafter with j^our Sea Moss 
Farine. With best wishes, I am, 

Very truly yours, 

(Miss) H. MAUDE BINNEY 

Sea f^oss Farine is indorsed b}^ Prof. All'^n, of Westfield Pure Food fame; Dr. Goudiss, 
Editor of FORECAST and Food Expert ; Mrs. Janet M. Hill, Editor AMERICAN COOKERY 
Magazine, and h^ Housekeepers every^where. 



A 25c. Package yields 
16 quarts desserts. 



Sold by good Grocers or 
will be mailed direct. 



Sample and Recipe Book Free. 



Lyon Manufadturing Co., Proprietors, 



38 South Fifth Street, Brooklyn, N.Y. 



A savory meal in itself for two 
people— cuts the cost of living 



FULLMEAIj 



The entire family will enjoy this 
most delicious combination of extra 
quality beef and fresh vegetables. Being 
cooked in the can until done, all the good- 
ness and nourishment of the food is re- 
tained. Full-Meal is correctly propor- 
tioned — a well-balanced diet by itself. 
Ready to serve, it lessens housework. 
And there are so many convenient ways 
of preparing Full-Meal that it is the 
satisfying food for every meal. Recipes 
are given on the can. 
When you want something 
tasty, satisfying and econom- 
ical, try Full- Meal. Sample, 
parcel post prepaid, 20c. 



The Haserot Canneries 

Company 

Dept, 2 



20 cents at grocers 



(^REMO YESCO 

For 
WHIPPING THIN CREAM 

Do you know that the "top" of the 
milk bottle, thin cream or equal parts of 
heavy cream and whole milk can be 
whipped as easily and as stiffly as heavy 
cream ? 

How? By Using Cremo Vesco 

Desserts, soups, salads and cocoa may 
be served or decorated with whipped 
cream made from "top" milk without 
any extra expense or from thin cream 
or half heavy cream and milk at half 
the usual cost of whipped cream. 

Cremo Vesco is a preparation of absolute pu- 
rity and healthfulness. It makes the perfect 
whipped cream for every service. It is more di- 
gestible than heavy cream. It keeps sweet 
longer. It cuts your cream bill in half. 

Household size, prepaid, 25 cents. 16 
ounce bottle ^vhips up 75 quarts of cream, 
$1.00. Discounts on Quantities. 

Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N.Y. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
323 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Less needed- 
truer flavor- 
always the same 






JosephBurnett Co. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 





When Hie 

cliemisl- 

Mks 




That's all the time in the Stickney & Poor Factory 

In the manufacture of 

STICKNEY ra POOR'S 

FLAVORING EXTRACTS 

the Chemist is the Real Authority. He is the "Watch Dog." 
There is no Guess Work, no Rule of Thumb. Everything is 
Careful and Scientific Procedure. That is why these GREAT 
TEN CENT SELLERS are so pure, so reliable, so popular 
with all who know their genuine goodness. Constant Tests make 
it impossible for goods below our high standard to be shipped. 

For Goodness Sake when you order Mustards, Spices, Season- 
ings and Flavorings, say "Stickney & Poor's" to your grr^cer. 
Your Co-operating Servant, "MUSTARDPOT" 



.^ STICKNEY & POOR SPICE COMPANY 

^l 1815- -Century Old— Century Honored- -1916 

WB BOSTON, MASS. 

^■BJ Mustards - Spices Seasonings - Flavorings 

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT 



certain chair against a certain store 
front on the main street of the county 
seat town at certain hours of the day, 
the weather being fair, to answer 
questions. To him one day came a 
young farmer, who wanted to know how 
to rid himself of sassafras sprouts in 
his fields. 

**Well, son," said the wiseacre, "off 
and on I've give the subject of sassa- 
frack sprouts considerable study durin' 
the past forty-five years. And here 
sometime ago I come to the opinion that 
the only way to git shet of sassafrack 
sprouts, when they start in to take a 
place, is to pack up, and move off and 
jest natchelly leave 'em." 



The Lecture He Enjoyed 

"Sir," said the young man with 
enthusiasm as he seized the lecturer's 
hand and shook it warmly, "I certainly 
enjoyed your lecture last night very 
much indeed." (We are quoting the 
Ladies' Home Journal.) 

"I am glad to hear that," said the 
lecturer, "But I didn't see you there." 

"No," admitted the youth, "I wasn't 
there." 

"But," said the puzzled speaker, "how 
could you enjoy my lecture if you were 
not present?" 

"Oh, I bought tickets for my girl's 
parents and they both went." 



"My dear, this pie is a poem!" 
exclaimed hubby, in glad surprise. "Your 
own work?" "The cook collaborated," 
she admitted with some hesitation. — ■ 
Tit- Bits. 



The grocer had just given little Ethel 
a banana, which was accepted silently. 

"Well, what do you say to the nice 
man?" prompted the fond mother. 

"I thay skin it." — Judge. 



Before they wed, how she could cook 

He had no time to judge; 
For all she'd ever cooked for him 

Was fudge, and fudge, and fudge. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
324 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



This New Range 
Is A Wonder 
For CooKing 



Although it is less than four feet 
long it can do every kind of cooking 
for any ordinary family by gas in 
warm weather, or by coal or wood 
when the kitchen needs heating. 




"Makes Cooking Easy" 

Note the two gas ovens above — one 

for baking, glass paneled and one 
for broiling, with white door. 

The large oven below is fitted with 
Glenwood oven indicator, and is 
heated by coal or wood. 

When in a hurry, both coal and gas ovens can 
be operated at the same time, using one for 
meats and the other for pastry. It "Makes 
Cooking Easy". 

^- ^ Gold Medal ^ 

Glenwood 

See Your Dealer 

or write for handsome free booklet to 

Weir Stove Company 

Taunton, Mass. 



JONES, McDUFFEE & STRATTON CO. 

Table Crockery, 
China and Glass 

For Thanksgiving 




TURKEY PLATTERS.— Large and extraordinarily 
large platters on which to serve the national bird or 
joint of beef; also plates to match. 

DINNER SETS or CHINA DINNER WARE of all 

grades taken from our large assortment of Stock Pat» 
terns enable the purchaser to select just the articles 
desired without being obliged to purchase the articles 
not required at the time, with the added advantage of 
being able to obtain matchings or additional pieces 
of the same pattern later on. 

We also offer a variety of Dinner Sets in stock 
patterns of Avhich we are overstocked and which we 
have marked down to reduce this overstock. 



Entree Sets 

($3.75 up to 178) 

Fish Sets 

($10 up to $40) 

After Dinner Coffee Sets 

($6 to $51.75) 



Salad Sets 

($6 to $57) 

Ice Cream Sets 

($3.75 to $35.50) 

Game Sets 

($7.50 to $135) 



Single Dozens of High=Class China Plates 
for Course Dinners 

New and Attractive Pieces 

Cut Crystal Glass 

Table Decorations, with Large Centre Vase and Corner 
Vases with connecting Glass Chains 
Finger Bowls —Vases— Cocktails— Roemers — 
borbets— Creme de Menthes— Cordials— Lemonades 
— Champagnes— Hocks- Decanters— Carafes, etc. 

Kitchen Ware Department 

Comprising everything pertaining to the home in 
this line, adapted for the familv, club, hotel, yacht 
public institution, including New French Porcelain 
Souffle Dishes, Shirred Egg Dishes, Egg Poachers. 
Catetieres, Casseroles, Cocoites. 

Jon«s,McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

CROCKERY. CHINA AND GLASS 

(10 Flood-s) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 Franklin Street, Boston 

Near W^shi-Qijlon and Summer Sts. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
325 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



HAirs- 

Pure 
Fruit 
Juices 




COMBINED IN 



Hay s Five Fruit Syrup 

make a most wholesome drink at all 
seasons for all people — old or young. 
Just dilute with ice water and it is ready. 

Pints 40c. Quarts 75c. Gallons $2.00 



•Supplied by good grocers throughout the East. Write 

to us if you do not find it in your locality, enclosing 6c 

for mailing liberal sample. 



H H HAY SONS 

PORTLAND. ME. 








MADE IN A JIFFY 

You will be interested to know that you can serve 
a very delicious dessert and still that no boiling or 
baking is necessary. Also that this dessert is all 
food, and just right as the last course for dinner, 
as a luncheon dish, or with your breakfast cereal. 

Warm milk added to Nesnah makes a dainty cus- 
tard, which when well chilled is delicious. 

Nesnah Ice Cream is more easily made than other 
kinds and combines healthfulness with a smooth, 
velvety ice cream. 

Six Pure Natural Flavors 

(An appeal to the economical 
home-maker) 

Lemon Almond 

Orange Vanilla 

Raspberry Chocolate 

A postcard will bring a free 
sample and a booklet of recipes 



I 



^ 



\NESNfiH 



JUNKCT rOLKS 



THE 



Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc. 



JUNKET FOLKS 

Box 2507 

Little Falls, N.Y. 



The Growth of the Trade Name 

The growth of the trademark and 
package food idea has been most pleas- 
antly illustrated during the past sum- 
mer by the increasing number of fresh 
food products sold under a trade name 
and in many cases protected by sani- 
tary wrappings. 

How few housewives are always sure 
to pick out a good cantaloupe. It is no 
longer necessary to select. Experts 
select and wrap each melon in clean 
tissue paper and stamp it with the 
grower's or dealer's name. This is true 
of other fruits, and fresh vegetables 
are more and more being sold in car- 
tons with the grower's name or some 
distinguishing mark. As soon as the 
housewife finds a distinguishing mark 
that satisfies her as to quality, she can 
order f;ruits and vegetables with as 
much security as she can order canned 
corn or raspberry jam. 

The appearance of labeled goods in 
dairy and poultry products is of course 
of more timely interest now than vege- 
tables. Not only can we buy butter and 
eggs in packages and cartons, marked 
and guaranteed by the firm name, but 
chickens and turkeys come in the same 
way. This represents an enormous ad- 
vance in the Piu-e Food movement 
which all housewives should encourage. 

It is well known in the business world 
that no amount of advertising will push 
a poor product. No firm of high stand- 
ing will put out products under its own 
name that are not of uniform quality. 
The day is coming when we shall see 
all food products standardized, and the 
housewife will be able to order all pur- 
chases by name with the same con- 
fidence that she now shows in buy- 
ing pure leaf lard, bacon, or baking 
powder. — Jean Prescott Adams. 



Sereno, four-year-old daughter of 
William H. Blodgett, chairman of the 
Republican town committee, entered a 
Winsted dry-goods store to-day and said 
she wanted "some red, white, and blue to 
make my doll a dress out of." The 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
326 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




STURDY 
FOOD 



Give the growing youngs- 
ters plenty of good bread 
made with 



Fleischmann's Yeast 

Our splendid little recipe, book sent 
you free on request 



The Fleischmann Co. 

701 Washington Street New York City 



mm 



llHiWi 




Keeps Contents Icy Cold 72 
Hours orSteamingHot 24 Hours 

A necessity in every home — indispensable when 

traveling or on any outing. Keeps baby's 

milk at right temperature, or invalid's 

hot or cold drink all night without heat, 

ice or bother of preparation. 

Thoroughly protected against breakage. 
Absolutely sanitary— liquids touch only glass. 
Instantly demountable — easy to keep clean. 

Typical Icy-Hot Values 

No. 31. Bottle— Black Morocco Leath- 
er trimming, Pt. $4.00; Ot. $ 5J5 
No. 740. Jar— Nickle— wide mouth for 
oysters,solidfood,etc.Pt, 3.00; Qt. 4.50 
No, 515. Carafe, Nickle 0*. 5.00 
No. 23. Bottle— Enamel— green, wine 
and tan, Pt. 1.75; Ot. 2.75 
No. 371. Lunch Kit with enameled pint 
bottle and drinking cup ^.25 
No. 870. Pitcher— Nickle 0*. 9.00 
Look for name Icy-Hot an bottom. If dealer 
cannot supply you, accept no sub- 
stitute—we will supply you direct^ 
at above prices, charges pre- 
paid. Write for catalog show- 
ing many styles from|l up. 
Icy-Hot Bottle Co. 
Cincinnati, 
Ohio 





||i^^^|||^ai;^^7cr 






LESSONS IN COOKING ^^Ut^ 

^tatag «aoh m,«al. Food Sesmomy, Balass^gsst BiisS.. Memias f of all Oec»= 
^ona, Special Articles. «t®. SomM im waSeffpsso^ IsatfeeTette, 480 pp 
Uloitiated. Sent on appio'^el fos Ms and SOs mn <& mon^ha oi f 2 Gma. 

S<mvnpl<a Fag^s JFree, 
American School of Home MeonomicB, S03 W. eStUx St., GMeago, Xll. 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALWAYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 



frs wford 



Every style 

Every price 
$29.00 and up 

Any style Crawford — at any price 
— makes good cooking easy. The 
wonderful single damper controls 
fire and oven heat with one motion. 
Simply place an always-cool knob at one 
of three plainly marked positions to 
"kindle," "bake," or "check." Perfect 
cooking is assured. 

Another big convenience found in most Craw- 
ford Ranges is the interchangeable hod feature. 
One hod catches the ashes — the other holds the 
coal. You carry away ashes and bring back 
coal in one trip. 

Crawford Combination Ranges have two ovens — the 
standard coal oven — and a large gas oven (elevated, or 
end style) with an adjustable broiler. Each oven is dis- 
tinct and separate — each perfect. Either fuel or both 
— may be used at any time. 

Sold by Leading Dealers 

Walker & Pratt Mfg. Company 



Boston, U. S. A. 

Makers of Highest 
Quality Ranges, 
Furnaces and Boikrs 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
327 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Exactly 
Right 



WP: 



%'^ 



Measured 
For You 



'5l *>*^'*^*' ,'^^*'^ji>*5*' '• j.'v^'' 



Minute Gelatine is absolutely pure. It is ap- 
proved by both Dr. Wiley and Prof. Allyn. 

Minute Gelatine is measured for, you by weight. 
^No guess work. ^ _ . -■ ( 

Each envelope (four to a package) contains exactly 
the right quantity for 1 pint. Your jellies can't help 
being "just right." , • ' " " 

Minute Gelatine requires no'soa/irenbr whatever. It 
dissolves inunediately in boiling water or milk. ( 

85 delightful, dainty ways of serving Minute Gelatine 
given in Minute Cook Book. Drop a postal now asking 
for a free copy. We want you to have it. Sample free 
if you give us your grocer's name. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA CO.. 811 E. Main St.. Orange. Mass. 



THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY $2M 

Needed in every jf»ome. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns 
easy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed make it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel __^^^_ 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures _i^§|^^EI|^|^^ 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. Xji^^^HBH^ft? 
Money back if not satisfactory. Sent ■- 
prepaid to any address for $2.00 or 
with our famous 2-in-l Flour Sifter 
(regular price $1 .00) for only $2.50. 



2-IN-l 



$100 



FLOUR 
SIFTER 

( Tested and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to 
clean. Has two compartments 
with sifter between. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as often 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Far better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. An Excellent Xmas Present. 
Sent prepaid upon receipt of $ 1 .00 
(or three for $2.00), or with 
Grinder, for only $2.50. Every 
housewife needs them both. Order 
today. 

Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Write for our liberal proposition 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO. 

858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



proprietor waited on the little girl, who, 
after receiving the parcel of material, 
asked how much it cost. "That will 
cost you just one kiss," repHed the pro- 
prietor, whereupon Sereno remarked, 
"Mamma will come in and pay you to- 
morrow." — Contributed. 



An old woman with a peaked black 
bonnet got aboard a train in Kentucky, 
and after calmly surveying everything in 
the coach she turned to a red-haired boy 
and, pointing to the bell-cord, asked, 
"What's that, and why does it run into 
that car?" "That's the bell-cord; it 
runs into the dining-car. ' ' The old wom- 
an hooked the end of her parasol over 
the bell-cord and gave it a vigorous jerk. 
Instantly the brakes were set and the 
train came to a stop. The conductor 
rushed in and asked loudly, "Who 
pulled that bell-cord?" "I did," calmly, ' 
repHed the old lady. "Well, what do 
you want?" shouted the conductor. "A 
cup of coffee and a ham sandwich." — 
Selected. 



What they learned. — A visitor to a 
Sunday-school was asked to address a 
few remarks to the children. He took 
the familiar theme of the children who 
mocked Elisha on his journey to Bethel, 
and how they were punished when two 
she-bears came out of the wood and ate 
forty-and-two of them. "And now, 
children," said he, "what does this story 
show?" "Please, sir," came from a 
little girl in the front row, "it shows how 
many children two she-bears can hold!" 
— Tit- Bits. 



The captain of industry was addressing 
the students of the business college. 
"All my success in life," he declared" 
proudly, "all my enormous financial 
prestige, I owe to one thing along — 
pluck. Just take that for your motto — 
pluck, pluck, pluck!" He paused im- 
pressly, and a meek little student in 
the front row said, "Yes, sir, but please 
tell us whom did you pluck?" — Ladies' 
Home Journal. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
328 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



SENSIBLE CHRISTMAS GIFTS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS 




LADD MIXER-CHURNS 

No. I, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially 
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into and remove from same : 
only ones thus made. We warrant they save 
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti- 
ful Made. By Parcel Post : 

No. I. $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. States, 
No. 1. 2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West 
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2, 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West 

CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE 



"SATURN" 

CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — dust proof, 
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft. 
line, tested to 180 lbs. — takes 
present clothes-pin. Use out^door 
or in-door. Hangs anywhere. Two 
spreading rings. Positiyely the best 
made at any price. Sent Parcel 
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.; nickel, 
ed and polished, 65c. 

LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES 




PLEASE WRITE 



UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York 



ITNf TQf T A f 1^*"'^^'' *°*^ Luncheon Menus containing 183 i 
UllUOU/lLi Selected successes only. Suitable for gift. Price deliv- 
ered32c. Address King's Daughters Society. 2320 E. lstSt..DuIath.Minn. 



ALL KINDS OF LABOR AND MONEY-SAVING DEVICES 

will be found in beautiful catalog sent on request 
FRANK SPECIALTY HOUSE, Inc., Dept. 3, 433 Lenox Ave, New York 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE Salt Mackerel 

rlome-St\ady Covirses | 

Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER 



For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins: "Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents. 
" Five Cent Meals," 10 cents. 

AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69th St., CHICAGO 



FOR 




THE 



DRESSING TABLE 

this charming Colonial bottle of sparkling 

crystal glass to hold cologne or lotion. 

PRICES : East of Missouri River (delivered) 
With Pressed Stopcer 90c. With Cut Stopper |1.25 

West of Missouri River, Florida, Maine, Canada (.del'v'd) 
With Pressed Stopper $1.15 With Out Stopper $1.50 

A.H.HEISEY&CO. Dept.56 NEWARK.OHIO 
Write for illustrated booklet 




.^t^ 



mEIBEYBI 



(GLAEEWA 



FOR THE TABLE 



FOR THE 
CONSUMER 




FOR YOUR OWN TABLE 



FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied DIRECT 
from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. DAVIS 
COMPANY, with newly caught, KEEPABLE OCEAN FISH, 

choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT sending 
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY 

express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appe- 
tizing and economical and we want YOU to try some, pay- 
ment subject to your approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious 
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not 
spoil on your hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for 
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from 
meat, at a much lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. 
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and 
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come toyou 
as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as 
crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell yourself. 

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your whole 
iamily will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of clams, 
whether fried or in a chowder. 

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to 
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, SAL- 
MON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY for 
salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing packed 
here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep right 
on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. ,,.-' 

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES. ..•••*'* 
for preparing all our products. Write for it. Our ...••'Prank E, 
list tells how each kind of fish is put up, with ^..•••* Davis Co, 
the delivered price, so you can choose ..•••' « ro„f..oi wt..^ 
just what you will enjoy most.....-- ciouclsS^.M^ss. 
Send coupon for it now. .••• tm 

rnixti^ r j\k\ncrt\ .''' Please send me your latest 

FRANK E.DAVIS CO. ...•• pish Price List. 
65 Central Wharf 

Gloucester, ...••■' Name 

Mass. V ..•■•■' 

.•••■' Street • , 



City. 



,SlQt^. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
329 



AMERICAN COOKERY 





A Range with 
a Reputation 



One quality; many styles 
and sizes; with or without legs 



"Don't buy 
a pig in a poke" 

Benjamin Franklin thus warned 
his countrymen never to buy any- 
thing before they saw it. Seeing 
is the "safety first" of buying; 
the only sure way of getting 
exactly what you want and what 
will best fill your needs. 




When you see the Majestic you will know why it has won whole- 
hearted praise everywhere. 

The world-wide reputation of the Majestic is based on the prac- 
tical working results of Majestic quality:— perfect baking, long- 
est life and most economical service. Body of genume charcoal 
iron, withstands rust 3 times longer than steel. Frames, top, 
etc. of malleable iron, unbreakable metal that permits the joints 
to be cold-rivetted, so that they stay tight always, hold in the 
heat and maintain perfect baking temperature with half as much 



fuel as other ranges use. Heavy asbestos boards reflect heat 
onto all sides, top and bottom of oven; all surfaces baked per- 
fectly without turning. The Majestic has many other important 
advantages you should see, such as the famous one-piece, all- 
copper, 15-gallon water heater. You'll find it easy to see the 
Majestic near you, for there is a Majestic dealer in nearly every 
county of 42 states. If you don't know one near you, write us 
for his address. 

Illustrates and describes every 
Majestic feature ask " for it. 



Free Book 
Majestic Manufacturing Co., Dept. 234, St. Louis, Mo. 



CALIFORNIA PRESERVED FRUITS 

Pickles, Relishes, Spiced Goods, Jellies and Jams. Ripe 
Olives and Olive Oil. Not ordinary factory goods but clean 
pure unadulterated California products from producer to 
consumer. You want the best. We have it. No trouble to 
answer inauiries- 

JOHN T. GRIFFITH 
346 Wilcox Building - Los Angeles, Cal. 



X Trade Mark RegiBtered. \\X/ 

Gluten Flour X 

40% GLUTEN 

Guaranteed to comply in all respects to 
standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of 



X 



Agriculture 

Manufactured by 

FAR WELL &. RHINES 

Watertown. N. Y. 



X 



GIVE THIS FOR XMAS 



r^z^ ^-'-i- "'l'^^^ 



Moth- 

Proof 

Red 

Cedar 

Chest 

Sent 



Piedmont Red 
Cedar Chest. Yourchoiceof 75 styles and deBi<?n8 ui v; 
sent on 15 days' free trial. We pay the freight. «^'' 

A Piedmont protects furs, woolens and plumes from 

moths, mice, dust and damp. Distinctly beautiful. 
Needed in every home. Lasts for generations. Finest 
CliriBtmas, wedding or birthday gift at great saving. 

Write today for our great catalog 

and, reduced, prices — postpaid free. 
Piedmont Red Cedar Chest Company, Dept. 57, Statesville, N. C. 




Reduced 
Factory 
Prices. 
Freight 
Prepaid. 



A NOVELTY That 
Does Efficient Work 




Saves 
Time and Eggs 



Does the work quicker and belter than it can 
be done in any other way. 

One will be sent postpaid to any present sub- 
scriber as a premii'm for securing and sending 
us one ( 1 ) new yearly subscription at $ 1 .00. 
Cash price 75 cents each. 

The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co. 
BOSTON, MASS. 

Send for our Premium List 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
330 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Kxperience has shown that the most satisfactory way 

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri- 
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an 
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums: 

/^/^]V¥\¥T'f QTVCi • Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
' to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.00 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly 
stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or is not paid as stated. 




SWEDISH 
p;^ ROSETTE 

^m IRONS 



These are something new in this country. With 
them you can make delicious and beautiful pastry 
confections, to be served sprinkled with powdered 
sugar or spread with jam or preserves and orna- 
mented with whipped cream. 

Each set comes securely packed in an attractive 
box, with recipes and full directions for use. 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, 60c. 




MAGIC COVER 

For Pastry Boards and Rolling Pin ; chemically 
treated and hygienic ; recommended by leading 
teachers of cooking. If you once use this you will 
never be without a set again. Saves flour, time 
and patience. Sent postpaid, for one (1) new sub- 
scription. Cash price, 65c. 




Pastry Ba^ and Four Tubes 

(Bag not shown in cut) 

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. 
Made especially for Bakers and Caterers. Emi- 
nently suitable for home use. 

The set sent, prepaid, for two (2) new subscrip- 
tions. Cash price, $1.00. 



THE A. M. C. ORNAMENTER 

Rubber pastry bag and twelve brass tubes, assorted designs, for cake decorating. This set is for fine 
work, while the set described s-bove is for more general use. Packed in a wooden box, prepaid, for 
three (3) new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.60. 




PATTY 
IRONS 



Are used to make pates or timbales; pastry cups 
for serving hot or frozen dainties, creamed vege- 
tables, salads, ices, etc. 

Each set, packed in a box with recipes and full 
directions. 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. 

Cash price, 60c. 




ROTARY 

MINCING 

KNIFE 



Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect- 
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables, etc., 
and the shield frees the knives from the materials 
being cut. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (i) new subscriber. Cash 
price, 60c. 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 



Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods^ — Do not accept substitutes 
331 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PREMIUMS 




PRINCESS PATTY TINS 



— FOR- 



Brownies or Other Small Cakes 



A SET OF 24 TINS 

Sent postpaid for one (1) new subscriptioD 
Cash Price, 50c. 



Bro-wnies 

1 Egg, well beaten 
1 cup of Flour 
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or 
Walnuts 

Mix in the usual manner but without separating 
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press 
half a nut meat into the top of each cake. 



}i cup of Butter 

}4 cup of Sugar 

}i cup of Molasses (dark) 



A SET OF THREE 
STEEL DRAWN MOULDS 

For Jellies, Puddings, Custards, 
etc., etc. 

Are so snaped that the contents readily comes 

out in perfect condition. 
These moulds ordinarily sell for 35c. pint size, 
40c. pint and a half, and 60c. for quart size. 




We have combined the three sizes into a set, and 
will send a set (either oval or round but not 
assorted shapes), prepaid, as premium for one 
(1) new subscription. Cash Price 63 c. 



"ROBERTS IIGHTNING 
MIXER" 



Tens of thousands of delighted 
housekeepers daily use this 
mixer and recommend it as be- 
ing the most effective beater, 
mixer and churner they ever 
saw. Beats whites of eggs in 
half a minute, whips cream and 
churns butter in from one to 
three minutes. In making 
floats, salad dressings, custards, 
gravies, charlotte russe, egg nog, 
etc., it must be used in order to 
achieve the best results. No 
spatter. Saves time and labor. 

Sent postpaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash Price 50c. 




^\ /AVvAV> GOI^I^EN ROD 
W^^^ CAKE PAN 

For " Waldorf Triangles '' " Golden Rod Cake," 
'* Orange Slice Cake " and many other fancy 
cakes. Substantially made of the best tin. Sent 
postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash 
Price 45c. ^"^ 




FRUIT 
CUTTER 



Cores and splits apples, pears and 
quinces into six pieces with one 
operation. Silver plated, turned 
wooden tray. Sent, postpaid, for 
one (1) new subscription. Cash 
price, 60 cts. 



The only reliable and sure 
way to make Candy, Boiled 
Frosting, etc., etc., isto use a 

THERMOMETER 

Here is just the one you need. 
Made especially for the purpose by 
one of the largest and best manu- 
facturers in the country. 

Sent, postpaid, for two (2) new 
subscriptions. Cash price, $1.00. 






THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



PREMIUMS 




nPHE bottom of the center space 
is closed ; in this can be served 
any creamed meat, oysters or vege- 
tables, garnished around the edges 
with parsley, radishes or olives. 

Another excellent way of using 
it is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf 
and fill with salad ; or fill the shell 
with an ice or ice cream and gar- 
nish with fruit. , 

Sent, prepaid for two (2 ) new 
subscriptions. Cash price $1.00. 



FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN 




Open End 



Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 long. 

Sent, prepaid for one (1) new subscription. 

Cash price 45c. 



DOOR STOP 

Need not be fastened to the floor. 

Holds door open at any angle. 

Worked by the foot. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) sub- 
scription. Cash price 50c. 

When ordering mention whether 
or not door has a threshold. 





BREAD BOARD 

Eleven-inch turned and carved maple bread board. 
Imported. Sent, prepaid, to any present subscriber 
for securing and sending us one (1) new yearly sub- 
scription for American Cookery. Cash price 65c. 



INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS 

Serves Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic, Coffee and Fruit Jelly, 
Pudding and other desserts with your initial 
letter raised on the top. Latest and Dainti- 
est novelty for the up-to-date hostess. 

To remove jelly take a needle and run it 
around inside of mould, then immerse in 
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perfect condition. 

Be the first in your town to have these. 
You cannot purchase them at the stores. 

This shows mould (up-side down) 





This shows the jelly turned from the mould 



Set of six (6), any initial, sent, postpaid for one (1) new subscription. Cash price 55c. 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass, 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



FOR THOSE WHO WANT A HOME 




CRAFTSMAN HOUSE NO. 78 



our one dollar offer gives you 
The Craftsman for Six Months 

with Two New Houses in Each Issue, together 
with Four Popular Craftsman Houses Reproduced 

ALSO 

— OUR CRAFTSMAN HOUSE BOOK- 

Printed in Duo-tone Ink, with Thirty Houses of the New 
Efficiency Type : House and Garden Furniture and Fittings 

THE CRAFTSMAN — BEAUTIFUL, PRACTICAL — A MAGAZINE OF PROGRESS 

THE CRAFTSMAN PUBLISHING CO.. CIRCULATION DEPT.. 6 E. 39th ST.. N.Y. CITY 

Gentlemen : You may send me six numbers of THE CRAFTSMAN beginning with 

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Enclosed find $ 1 .00 NAME.^ — 



(This offer to readers of American Cookery 
good till November 15, 1916, only.) 

— ► 15 MONTHS 



ADDRESS. 



$3.00 



15 MONTHS -^— 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



In order to attain tKe HigKest Possible 
State of Perfection, in MaKing all CaKes, 
and to be Certain of Success every time, 
it is only necessary to vise a regular set of 

The Van Deusen Cake Moulds 



and practice tHe Scientific 
MetKod furnisKed AvitH same. 

This Scientific Method is : To bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let 
them stick, and loosen the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be 
removed. (Each mould being provided with openings at the sides, which are 
covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted, to loosen the cake from 
the bottom.) In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking and cooling, 
and prevents same from settling, and becoming "soggy.** 

These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exacdy how to do each operation right, — being so 
practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in the past, success will 
be assured every time these instrucfions are followed correctly, and angel, sunshine and other 
of the more deKcate, delicious and desirable cakes are made easier than the ordinary ones are 
by the old methods. 

Some may claim that other makes of cake tins are "just as good" as the Van Deusen Cake 
Moulds, and also that the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes are no better than the 
ordinary ones, but it will only be necessary to consult a few (of the thousands) of the cake- 
makers that are using these, or give the outfit a trial, in order to be convinced of their superior 
merits, not only for making angel cake, but for all other kinds as well. 

The regular set consists of : 1 loaf and 2 layer 
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Chapman Cake Rules and Recipes; and it is to 
the best interest of all cake makers to see that 
their dealers carry these sets, for they include 
only what is absolutely necessary to have, in 
order to be certain of success, in making all cakes. 

The set sells at the same price that the same articles would bring 
separately, and the Recipes are only furnished with these sets. 

If your dealer will not supply you with these sets, we will send same, post- 
paid, as follows : To offices, in the United States, east of the Mississippi river, 
upon receipt of 90 cents and to those west of the same for $1.10. 

Send yoxjT orders to 




The Chapman Co. 



Geneva, N. Y. 



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335 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




^y. ^'7 V 






N- OTHING in the home is quite so suggestive of individual efFort 
as a piece of hand-made lace. The distinctive design, the count- 
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Exquisite pieces of this kind are so full of the human spirit that we 
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Only the method of cleaning which we consider good enough for 
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their hand-drawn threads. 









IVORY SOAP 

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\ 



\ 




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d:^.^.,A..' 



"NEVER MIND, PLENTY LEFT HONEY." 

hainted by Edward V. Breiver for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1916 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
337 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXI 



DECEMBER, 1916 



No. 5 



CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER 



PAGE 



MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS DAY 345 

A WAYSIDE INN THAT IS MAKING A FARM PAY 

(Illustrated) • . . . Jane Vos 347 

A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON Helen Forrest 353 

BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION Roy Temple House 356 

THE FOREST ELVES Christine Kerr Davis 359 

TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS . . Mary D. Chambers 360 

THE BIRDS' CHRISTMAS TREE .... Seymour See 36*2 

FRAU BAUM'S TORTE Jane New 364 

THE MORNING TIME A. W. Herr 365 

EDITORIALS 366 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with 

half-tone engravings of prepared dishes) . . . Janet M. Hill 369 
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN 

DECEMBER „ „ „ 278 

MENUS, TWO-COURSE LUNCHEONS FOR CARD 

PARTIES „ „ „ 379 

ECONOMY IN DEMAND Emma Gary Wallace 380 

ORIGIN AND MEANING OF COOKING TERMS 

Sarah Graham Morrison 383 

HOMF IDEAS AND ECONOMIES— A Christmas Credo- 
Efficiency Applied — How the Groceteria Saves Your Money — 
Practical Christmas Wrappings — Brush and Paint in the 

Kitchen — A Veiled Wedding— Etc 386 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 391 

THE SILVER LINING 400 

MISCELLANEOUS 404 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 10c A COPY 
Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Canadian postage 20c. a year additional. Foreign postage 40c. 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright, 1916, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

338 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Cottolene 



''The Natural 
Shortening^' 



Cake of excelling quality 



Just as Cottolene adds to the light- 
ness and delicacy of biscuits and 
pastry, so does it meet the require- 
ments for cakes of all kinds. You will 
appreciate the superior "creaming" 
quality of Cottolene. 

Use Cottolene for all your shortening; 
learn how very good it is in cake-mak- 
ing. Use it also for frying; realize the 
tempting, wholesome quality it gives to 
foods. 

Cottolene is put in pails of various 

sizes for your convenience. Arrange 

with your grocer for a regular supply. 



Almond Cream 
Cake 

Cream 3^ cup of butter 
and Cottolene packed to- 
gether, add one cup of 
sugar, and mix in alter- 
nately }/2 cup of milk or 
water and two cups oi 
pastry flour sifted three 
times with two teaspoons 
baking powder. Beat well, 
flavor and add five stiffly 
beaten whites. Bake in 
two layers. 

Whip sweetened cream 
until stiff; flavor with al- 
mond extract and sherry; 
add chopped blanched 
almonds and spread be- 
tween and over the layers. 
Garnish with cherries. 

From "HOME HELPS" mailed 

free if you write our General 

Offices, Chicago 



thF&EFAI R BAN K:^^ 





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339 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



DO U 

K N O ViT T H A T 

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER'S 

DINNER ,1°% 
CALENDAR W 

IS N O ViT R.E A DY? 

A MENU AND RECEIPT FOR 
EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR 




OF THEM. SENT POST- 
PAID IN A BOX FOR 



60 c. 

SULLY & KLEINTEICH 

371 4ih Ave., New York 



We have an 

attractive 

Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

American (Booliery 

Write us for it if you wish to canvass 
your town or if you wish to secure 
only a few names among your friends 
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easily you can earn ten, twenty or 
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Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



370 
377 
376 



INDEX FOR DECEMBER* Page 

Belgium and the Food Question 356 

Birds' Christmas Tree, The 362 

Economy in Demand 380 

Editorials 355 

Forest Elves . _ 359 

Frau Baum's Torte 354 

Home Ideas and Economies 386 

Menus 345^ 378, 379 

Morning Time, The 365 

New Year Luncheon, A 353 

Origin and Meaning of Cooking Terms . . . 383 

Silver Lining, The 400 

Talks to a Normal Class 360 

Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pay, A 347 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes : 

Beef Tenderloin, Minions of, Home Stvle 

111 . 370 

Bread, Gluten. Ill 373 

Cake, Nut. Ill 373 

Cakes, Heart 377 

Caramels, Quick Chocolate 377 

Charlotte Russe, Christmas. Ill 377 

Chicken, Roast, Celery Stuffing, Sausage 

Crescents, Puff-Paste. Ill W 

Fondant Balls, Chocolate. Ill 

Fondant, Chocolate 377 

Frosting, Confectioners' 374 

Frosting, Ornamental. Ill 374 

Gingersnaps, Bermuda. Ill 375 

Jumbles, Orange Cocoanut. Ill 375 

Jumbles, Wafer. Ill 375 

Leeks, Boiled, Hollandaise Sauce 371 

Potatoes, Glazed 372 

Potatoes, Parisienne 370 

Pudding, Virginia Kornlet 372 

Salad, Christmas Fruit. Ill 373 

Sandwich, Open Club, Filene Style.. 111. 372 

Soup, Leek-and-Potato 369 

Steak, Salisbury, with Bacon, Hotel Style 369 

Sticks, Imperial 369 

Timbales, Chicken-and-Rice. Ill 371 

Toast, Polly's Cinnamon 372 

Turnips, Fall 372 

Queries and Answers : 

Beans, Boston Baked 391 

Beef Tea, Beef Extract, etc.. 394 

Bouillon and Consomme 394 

Bread, Oatmeal 391 

Cake, Ideal Sponge 392 

Cake, White, with Marshmallo w Frosting 396 

Candy, Divinity 396 

Candy, with Fondant 392 

Diet in Case of Gall Stones 396 

Dressing, Boiled Salad 392 

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad 394 

Dressing, Whipped Cream 392 

Eclairs with Chocolate Frosting 396 

Food, Lists of. Cooked at Same Tem- 
perature 392 

Recipes, Number of Portions in 396 

Viscogen 391 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
340 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




CEEHSTMA 



03 f cy i"d) /rY\ Td) ' 
'o 





For the woman who runs the household — can you imagine a more 
welcome and desirable book-gift than one of Mrs. Rorer's famous 
cookery books? You buy the best wisdom of the best expert for a 
comparatively small sum, and it rewards richly for all the years to 
come. Every recipe is absolutely sure. All sorts of ideas and in- 
structions in cooking and household matters — in fact, big, generous 
returns for your money. For instance, there is 

Mrs. Rorer's Nctv Cook Book 

Over 700 pages of most delightful, original recipes; how to market, cook, 
serve, carve, etc.; beautifully illustrated. 

Bound in washable cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.20 



Now here's another good thing — 

Two sets of books, five in a set; their names tell the story of each; all good, 
beautifully bound in colored cloth, very attractive in appearance. 



How to Use a Chafing Dish 

Sandwiches 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs 

Home Candy Making 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings 

This set of five books will make a beautiful 
gift, and only cost $2,50; single copies can be 
had for 50 cents each. 



My Best 250 Recipes 

Ice Creams, Water Ices, Etc. 

Canning and Preserving 

New Salads 

Dainties 

This set of five will cost S3. 75 ; single copies, 
75 cents each. Full of delightful recipes. A 
gift as welcome as Christmas. 



If you desire, we will forward the books to any address, and enclose your card of greeting. 
All books packed securely. 



Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book 

A wonderful book, full of the very best things. Splendidfor the beginner 
in housekeeping. At same time the experienced cook can gain from it. 

Bound in washable cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.15 

Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
341 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



A Choice List of Gift Books 

The Romance of a 
Christmas Card 

By KATE DOUGLAS WIGGIN. 

Everyone who has ever known the joys of an old-fashioned 
home Christmas will delight in this charming romance by the 
author of "The Birds' Christmas Carol." The lovable 

characters, and the glowing Christmas spirit that breathes 
through its pages, the beautiful colored illustrations and the 
dainty binding combine to make this the pei-fect gift book of 
the season. $1.00 net. 



i-i^li^-' 



Just David 

By ELEANOR H. PORTER. 

This beautiful story by the author of "Pollyanna," "Miss Billy," "The Story of Marco," etc., makes 
a?i ideal gift for old and young because it is the book that everyone likes, and because it carries a 
n.essage of happiness and inspiration that will be gratefully remembered for years to come. 
Handsomely bound and illustrated, $1.25 net. Also a Holiday Edition in limp leather, $2.00 net. 



The Wall Street Girl 

By FREDERICK ORIN BARTLETT. An absorb- 
ing romance of a working girl who won the admiration 
and love of a young millionaire. Illustrated. $1.35 net. 

Tish 

By MARY ROBERTS RINEHART. " Tish' is 
a joy. Mrs. Rinehart has written many good stories, 
but nothing more entertaining than this latest book." — 
Philadelphia JPuhlic Led-aer. Illustrated in color by 
May Wilson Preston. $1.50 n.e<. 

Skinner's Dress Suit 

By HENRY IRVING DODGE. A delightful st^ry 
of a young wife who helped her husband to success by 
making him buy a dress suit. Illustrated. $1.00 /re*. 



Speaking of Home 

By LILLIAN HARTTRYON. These delightful 
papers present the attractions of housewifery even in this 
present age. A book all women will appreciate. $1.00 we*. 

The Business of Being a Friend 

By BERTHA CONDE. A wise guide in the solving 
of problems in friendships, written from a life of rich and 
rare experience. $1.00 7%et. 

The Motorists' Almanac 

By WILLIAM LEAVITT STODDARD. This 

clever book will amuse as well as give many helpful hints 
to all motorists. Illustrated. $1.00 wet. 



FOR YOUNG FOLKS 



About Harriet 

By CLARA WHITEHILL HUNT. Tells of the 
doings of a little city girl through all the days of the week 
— a trip to the shore on a picnic, a day of shopping in a 
big store, a ride in the subway, marketing day, — a story 
fascinating for all little folks. Illustrated in color by 
Maginel Wright Enright. $1.25 net. 

The Cave Twins 

By LUCY FITCH PERKINS. The adventures of 
Firetop and Firefly, who were perhaps the first human 
twins that ever were born. Has all the interest and humor 
which has characterized the Japanese, Mexican, Dutch, 
Eskimo and Irish "Twins." Fully illustrated. $1.00 net. 



Stories To Tell The Littlest Ones 

By SARA CONE BRYANT. Stories, finger plays 
and songs that the author has found most popular with 
children of two to six years of age. The book is pro- 
fusely illustrated in color and black and white by Willy 
Pogany and makes a wonderfully attractive gift. $1 .50 net- 



Bible Stories to Read and Tell 

By FRANCES JENKINS OLCOTT. An attractive 
collection of 150 stories from the Old Testament in the 
language of the King James Version. The book is lav- 
ishly illustrated with superb paintings and drawings in 
color and black and white by Willy Pogany. $2.00 net. 



Illustrated Holiday and 

Juvenile Bulletins 
Sent Free on Request 



Houghton Mifflin Company 



PARK STREET 
BOSTON 



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342 



ADVERTLSEMENTS 



AMERICA'S COOK BOOK LEADERS 




BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK 

By Fannie Merritt Farmer. Contains 2,117 thoroughly tested recipes, 
from the simple and economical to the elaborate and expensive — the leading 
American authority on cooking. 

" The best cook book on the market." — Woman's World. . 
Over 130 Illustrations. 



Pages. 



Cloth. 



$1.80 Net. 



CANNING. PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 

By Janet M. Hill. An authoritative guide, containing the latest word on the subjects 
treated — a thoroughly reliable work for all*housekeepers. 




fully Illustrated. 



$1.00 Net. 



""^^^ 



A NEW BOOK OF COOKERY 

By Fannie Merritt Farmer. An almost indispensable companion volume 
to her "Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." It contains 852 recipes upon all 
branches not included in her older book, many of which are not to be found in 
any other work. 

With 6 colored and over 200 other illustrations. Cloth. $1.60 Net. 

FOOD AND COOKERY for the SICK AND CONVALESCENT 

• ?^ 5^*^^^® ^' Farmer. An invaluable book for those whose duty it is to care for the 
sick. There are also important chapters on infant and child feeding, suggestions for diets, etc. 

Illustrated. $1.60 Net. 

THE BOSTON COOK BOOK 

By Mary J. Lincoln. "As a scientific work, as a book of real value to 
the world, few publications have equalled it. . . . It has gone through 53 
editions. No efforts have been spared to make the, book the most practical, 
complete and comprehensive possible." — Boston Globe. 

With 50 illustrations. 600 Pages. Cloth. $1.80 Net. 



SALADS, SANDWICHES and CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES 

By Janet M. Hill. "More than a hundred different varieties of salads among the recipes 
— salads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of 
different ways." — Washington Times. 

Illustrated. $1.50 Net. 



COOKING FOR TWO 

By Janet McKenzie Hill. Gives in simple and concise style, those things 
that are essential to the proper selection and preparation of a reasonable 
variety of food for the family of two individuals. Menus for a week in each 
month of the year are included. 

With 150 illustrations. 




TABLE SERVICE 

By Lucy G. Allen 

A cornprehensive exposition of the waitress' 
duties; including tray service, carving, laying 
of table, care of dining room, etc. 

Fully Illustrated. $1.25 Net. 



Cloth. $1.50 Net. 

BOOK OF ENTREES 

By Janet M. Hill 

Contains over 800 recipes for entrees, in- 
cluding a chapter on planked dishes and those 
served_ en casserole, together with a choice 
collection of menus. 

Fully Illustrated. $1.50 Net. 



bo^LCes little, brown & CO., Publishers "S.'* 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
343 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Enjoy the light and flaky, flavor^dripping goodness of holiday mince pies 
—made with MORRIS TESTED PRODUCTS. They crown the feast. 

"Whiteleaf Brand Pure Lard — the perfect shortening — is the ideal Lard for Family 
Use. It is loo per cent pure. "Golden Crown" Mince Meat — ready to use — coH' 
tains a wealth of luscious fruits— tart apples; big, juicy raisins; piquant currants and 
candied fruits. Made with choice lean teef, snowwhite 'suet — seasoned with 
aromatic spices. A thrilling filling for "real old-fashioned" mince pies. Ask for 

Morris Tested Foods 



Write for the ne^v Morris Cook Book — "The Su- 
preme Test." Address, Morris & Company, Chicago. 



[Cudr^nteedV.. 



duy adv^ertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
344 




Menus for Christmas Day 

Breakfast 

Halves of Grapefruit 

Broiled Bacon Mashed Potatoes 

Whole-wheat Baking Powder Biscuit 

or 
Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 
Honey in the Comb 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Orange, White-Grape and Pineapple 
Cocktail 
Roast Chicken, Celery Stuffing, Sausag*" 
Cranberry Sauce or Jelly 
Sweet Potatoes, Southern vStyle 
Onions in Cream 
Celery 
Mince Pie 
Vanilla Ice Cream 
Bermuda Ginger Snaps 
Half Cups Coffee 
Nuts Raisins Bonbons 

Supper 

Oyster Stew, Oysterettes 
Olives 
Bread and Mayonnaise Sandwiches 
Baked Pears 
Orange Cocoanut Jumbles 



A 



merican 



Cook 



ery 



VOL. XXI 



DECExMBER 



No. 5 



A Wayside Inn that is Making a Farm Pay 

By Jane Vos 



ONE of the newest avenues open to 
the woman who wishes to earn 
an income at home is to estabhsh 
wayside accommodations for motorists. 
According to those who have already 
done so, the only equipment necessary is 
a few attractive cups and saucers, such as 
most china closets have on display, or 
bring out on special occasions, a tea- 
kettle, a tea-wagon and a muffin stand. 
To be sure, there must be the proverbial 
"vine and fig tree." If it is one's own, so 
much the better ; if not, it may be owned 
outright in time, for more than one clever 
woman is making her "Home O' Dreams' ' 
pay for itself in this manner. 

New England women have long since 
learned the commercial value of the way- 



side inn, and "Sally Lunn Tea Cake 
Houses," and "Bide-a-wee Inns" now 
flourish under their management. And 
still there is room for more! Motorists 
everywhere complain tha.t accommoda- 
tions are limited, short of an ordinary 
hotel where comfort is frequently at a 
premium. In the middle states and far 
west, women have been a little slower 
about grasping their opportunities in this 
direction. Between Detroit and Chi- 
cago, for instance, a distance of several 
hundred miles, there is but one wayside 
inn to cheer the heart of the motorist. 
This alone is ample proof that there is 
room for many more. 

"Bird House Inn" near the Western 
Pike, Niles, Michigan, is one of the most 




BIRD HOUSE INN FROM FRONT GATEWAY 
347 



348 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



unique examples of what can be accom- 
plished in a single season. Miss Mae 
Jefferson, its hostess, is a transplanted 
city girl, having spent all her life on the 
South Side of Chicago, near the lake. A 
few years ago, however, she became so 
attached to her father's farm at Niles, 
during one of their numerous vacations, 
that she decided to transform it into a 
year-round home. The seventy-five- 
year-old house was therefore remodeled 
on a small margin, and made as attract- 
ive and comfortable as possible. After 
her father's death Miss Jefferson sud- 
denly awakened to the fact that she had 
a white elephant on her hands, — for the 
farm was eating its head off — not even 
paying expenses. Fortunately, Miss 
Jefferson's problem was not so serious as 
it would have been with many another 
as she had the means to maintain her 
home, but being a thrifty person she 
decided that the farm must stop loafing 
and pay its own way. 

Accounts from the villagers of motor- 
ists stopping at their front gates and 



asking for accommodations, — a cup of 
tea, a modest dinner, a bed for over 
night gave her the idea for her inn. The 
spacious old house with its wide ver- 
andas was all ready to lend its generous 
aid to the project. There was room and 
to spare, and every bed that was occu- 
pied over night would be practically 
clear gain. 

The farm was, therefore, "let on 
shares," and planted straightway with 
an abundance of good things to supply 
the table. The poultry yard was stocked 
with choice Houdans and thoroughbred 
ducks — all with an eye to business. 

Down in the village, meantime, boys 
in the manual training class at the high 
school were busy making bird houses, 
for a wave of good fellowship for feath- 
ered friends was sweeping the country. 
Miss Jefferson heard about it, and, being 
a friend of the birds also, she visited the 
high school with malice aforethought, 
and, when she left, she was the proud 
possessor of the finest collection of bird 
houses in the state. 




THE PORCH LIVING-ROOM 



A WAYSIDE INN 



349 




A GUEST ROOM 



A day or so later, the boys made up a 
party, and they went out to the farm to 
help Miss Jefferson erect her newly 
acquired possessions. By nightfall, all 
the choicest spots available were usurp- 
ed by bird houses, and the place began 
to look like a paradise for feathered folk, 
as it really has since proven. 

Over the gateway a swinging sign 
surmounted by a wren house was hung, 
and emblazoned upon it were the words, 
"Motorists' Accommodations." The 
martin house nearby, which surmounted 
the tallest of all the pedestals, looked 
more than ever like a totem-pole when it 
was wired and a big lamp installed. 
Now at dusk, when the wayfarer pauses 
for rest or refreshment, he is made 
doubly siu-e of the place by the Sign of 
the Martin House, the light of which 
blinks him a cheerful welcome. It is a 
goodly sight to "man and beast." 

Broilers from her own poultry houses 
provide the chicken dinners for which 
the Inn is already famous. Golden 
Bantam corn and other home-grown 
vegetables supplement the rest of the 
menu. All meals are served on the west 
screened porch, simply and daintily. 



Japanese runners and napkins are used, 
and between meals stenciled oilcloth 
covers give a living-room aspect to the 
porch. 

A floral centerpiece always adorns the 
table. More than likely it is composed 
of what many people would term 
"weeds," for the wayside must provide 
this service. Black-eyed Susans, daisies, 
buttercups, honeysuckle — whatever the 
mood of the mistress of the inn — but 
always perched away in the heart of the 
blossoms are tiny yellow birds which 
sway back and forth in the breeze so 
naturally that it is difficult to tell them 
from real live songsters. That they are 
merely celluloid, weighted with lead, 
does not in the least detract from the 
joy of their presence. They seem to 
belong to Bird House Inn, just as do the 
paroquets swinging on their wooden 
perches at the other end of the porch, 
quite fitting in with the landscape. 

It is a delightful spring morning, and 
there is a whifE of fragrant honeysuckles 
in the air. A siren melodiously an- 
nounces a guest. Miss Jefferson stand- 
ing in the doorway in her simple morning 
gown and dainty dusting cap is a picture, 



350 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




"HEAD GARDENER" 

fur there are stray wisps of wonderful 
golden hair peeping from under the lace 
frill of the bewitching cap. The motor- 
ist stares very hard, though he does not 
mean to be rude; but even in morning 
attire Miss Jefferson cannot disguise the 
fact that she is a thoroughbred, and not 
the ordinary "landlady." 

A cap is doffed. "I suppose I'm too 
late for breakfast, and too early for 
dinner," smiles the newcomer. "But 
I'm starved!" he adds apologetically. 

Reassured that it is not impossible 
to serve him a late breakfast, the guest 
leisurely refreshes himself at the spring 
house while awaiting his belated break- 
fast. A half hour later, having satisfied 
the needs of the inner man, he finds him- 
self discussing music with Miss Kay, the 
partner of this unique establishment. 
They run the whole gamut of musical 
subjects from Chopin to ragtime, when 
suddenly the man rises, and stammers 
an apology. 

"How can I mention payment in con- 
nection with such delightful hospitality ?" 
he murmurs. "And yet I know there 
must be a commercial aspect to your 
venture. Allow me, therefore, to leave 
my offering under my serviette." 



"That is the way they all feel," 
laughs Miss Jefferson, "And could any 
compliment be greater ? Only delightful 
people come to our door — authors, 
musicians, professional people from 
all walks of life. Never have we been 
compelled to turn an uneligible person 
away. Our only trouble on that score 
is lack of room to accommodate all the 
charming people who apply for accom- 
modations." 

The first guests of the Inn happened 
to be Mr. and Mrs. Robbin and their 
young brood. They arrived at dusk, 
very tired and exceedingly hungry. 
The light in the Martin House was as 
welcome as if they were castaways on a 
desert isle. 

"Motorists' Accommodations!" they 
heard someone say as a big car ceased 
to honk. "Well, if it's for 'motor-wrists'. 
I'm going in" chirped Mr. Robbin hope- 
fully. 

A broiled chicken dinner with all the 
accompaniments of salads and ices, and 
a Katydid Orchestra thrown in, put all 
the Robbins in such a happy frame of 
mind that they vowed allegiance to the 
Inn forever thereafter. They have 
proved as good as their word. Upon 
their return to South Bend, they spread 
the glad tidings among their friends, and 
from that hour much of their patronage 
has come through their first guests. 

One of the friends of the Robbins, who 
was entertaining a house party of young 
people, straightway telephoned to Miss 
Jefferson for week-end accommodations. 

"And be sure and have the dancing 
pavilion in good trim," was her parting 
injunction. 

Before Miss Jefferson could protest, 
the would-be guest rang off. It is very 
doubtful whether the former would have 
acknowledged that the Inn did not 
boast a dancing pavilion. It is not her 
way. She merely smiled enigmatically, 
then went out in the back yard and cast 
her eye judicially over an abandoned 
chicken house, a long, rambling affair. 
"It will do nicely," she murmured. 



A WAYSIDE INN 



351 



Five days later the building stood on 
a more commanding site overlooking the 
miniature lake. Freshly painted, and 
with a newly laid and still moist waxed 
floor, — a rehabilitated "Villa Poulet." 
The young people came in due time, and 
danced by the light of the moon to the 
accompaniment of a Victrola. ' When not 
in use as a dancing pavilion, "Villa 
Poulet" provides excellent quarters for 
the chauffeurs of motorists, several cots 
being brought into requisition for the 
purpose at a m.oment's notice. 

Miss Jefferson's most pretentious ar- 
chitectural feat was the turning of a 
seventy-five-year-old barninto a dwelling 
place. That the building had originally 
been built for a house was indicated by 
the stone foundation, which according 
to Miss Jefferson's keen judgment war- 
ranted her undertaking. A living porch 
in front, a kitchen and bathroom at the 
rear changed the barn into a sloping 
roofed dwelling. The 20 x 20 living 
room has a fireplace built of cobblestones 
picked up on the place. The inscription 
on the hearthstone reads : 

'The smaller the house, 
The greater the peace." 



A chamber of corresponding size above 
the living room has dormer windows on 
four sides, thus affording perfect ven- 
tilation. There are long poles with 
curtains arranged in such a manner as 
to divide the chamber into four separate 
bedrooms, if desired. There is an attic 
arrangement for trunks in the rear. 
The remodelling was done at a total 
expenditure of $600 including the plumb- 
ing and electric wiring. "Maesidea" 
(Mae's Idea), as it was straightway 
christened by an admiring brother, who 
at first scoffed at the suggestion, rents 
for $25 a month the year round. 

Still another unique idea was the 
creation of the lake with an island in the 
center. When Miss Jefferson first began 
the reclamation of her farm, she was 
much annoyed at the sight of what had 
evidently been a combination pasture, 
duck pond and pig wallow. It was haJf 
filled with m.ud, and was surrounded by 
a tumbled down fence. With her con- 
structive eyes, she immediately pictured 
the lake as it appears today, a thing of 
beauty and a joy to all who comie to 
Bird House Inn. 

Miss Jefferson had previously recon- 




LIVING ROOAI IN BUNGALOW " MAESIDEA 



352 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



noitered the pig wallow, and she already 
knew that back of the clump of willows 
flowed Silver Brook, but not until after- 
wards did she discover that in addition to 
the brook there were hidden springs only 
awaiting an opportunity to bubble forth 
and feed the prospective lake. First of 
all, the "wallow" was still further exca- 
vated, and the earth thrown up around 
the willows, thus forming an island. 
Meantime, Silver Brook, delighted to 
serve so worthy a cause, began to flow 
into the new channel. The hidden 
springs released by the excavation, began 
to bubble forth joyously, eager to do 
their part. In due time a miniature foot 
bridge was built over the lake, connect- 
ing the mainland with the island. Rustic 
seats around the willows afford a quiet 
trysting place for Bird House Inn guests. 
A wellhouse over one of the springs 
has an old oaken bucket swinging from 
its main beam, and crystal clear water 
offers its refreshment to the wayfarer. 
The wellhouse is covered with honey- 
suckle, and within this leafy retreat a 
robin builds her nest each year with utter 
disregard of those who come and go, 
evidently counting all as her friends. 



Associated with Miss Jefferson in her 
unique venture are two other young 
women. Miss Emily Grace Kay, a prom- 
inent musician of St. Paul, Minn., who 
styles herself a "Professional Boarder" at 
the Inn, and an exceedingly clever young 
Domestic Science Person, a miniature 
edition of the original Dolly Varden. 

Miss Kay is responsible for all the 
motorists' signs seen along highway and 
byway on the Western Pike, the Dixie 
Highway and the Chicago and Detroit 
Road. Not satisfied with having sten- 
ciled these signs with her own fingers, 
she did not count her task completed 
until she had nailed every sign in place 
on telephone pole or fence. Her deft 
fingers, too, are responsible for the sten- 
ciled oilcloth table covers used on the 
porches. 

But both the Misses Jefferson and 
Kay feel themselves of but little import- 
ance beside the diminutive Domestic 
Science Person who is in no wise non- 
plussed when unexpected guests arrive 
to the number of fourteen or so, and who 
in less than an hour later is serving the 
dinner she has cooked since the last 
' ' Honk ! " of the car died away. 




THE LITTLE DIETICIAN SERVES TEA 



A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON 



353 



"She was warranted," laughs Miss 
Jefferson, "and she lives up to it. They 
told me she could execute a fowl without 
fainting, build a fire that would continue 
to burn, and broil a chicken while the 
tea-kettle was boiling! She can do all 
this and more!" 

There is a ripple of merry laughter 
that reminds one of Silver Brook, and 
the small Domestic Science Person 
appears in the doorway looking like the 
original Dolly Varden. She is wheeling 
the tea-wagon to the front porch, and a 
second later the muffin-stand. 

Guests have stopped for afternoon 
tea, and the High Priestess of the tea urn 
is serving both hot and iced tea with all 
their accompaniments of lemon, mint, 
cloves, ginger and peppermints, mean- 
time passing delectable sandwiches and 



cake of Bird House Inn's own brand. 
"Ninety-percent profit on each twenty- 
five cent tea service" frankly admits 
Miss Jefferson. "The sandwiches are 
made from left-over chicken and salads, 
and we candy our own ginger and orange 
peel. As to our dinners, we specialize 
on the same one daily, and can tell to a 
biscuit just how many will be consumed. 
One dollar for dinner, one dollar for a 
bed with accommodations for a car, and 
one dollar for breakfast is not considered 
an exorbitant charge. In fact, our 
guests tell us that we do not ask enough 
for what we give. We average 200 
guests a month, though thrice that num- 
ber could be entertained if we had ac- 
commodations for them. Another 
year — who knows?" And Miss Jefferson 
waves her hands comprehensively. 



A New Year Luncheon 

By Helen Forrest 



EVELYN has asked me to run 
into town Friday for dinner, 
the theatre and all night with 
her," said Bess Leighton to her mother, 
looking up from a letter the postman 
had just given her. 

"That's very mce," answered Mrs. 
Leighton, "you've been home very 
steadily of late. What will you wear, 
Bess? I think we must finish your new 
pink dress for this festive occasion." 

"Oh, but I'm not going," declared 
Bess soberly, "I am already indebted to 
ever so many of the girls for some invi- 
tation I have accepted. It was all 
right when I could make a return, but all 
entertaining is give and take and I shall 
not accept when I cannot give." 

Her mother looked steadily into the 
flushed young face before her, ' ' and why, ' ' 
she asked, "can you no longer give? 
Do you trust your friends so little that 



you cannot welcome them to our 
changed conditions?" 

"Oh, mother!" Bess spoke impet- 
uously, "you know I love Grandfather's 
old home. I think it was the most 
wonderful thing in the world that it 
should have come to us when Father's 
health and his business both failed, but, 
mother, how could I ask the girls to 
come an hour and a half out of New York 
to this really country place which isn't 
even a smart suburb, to follow this 
country street. Then there is only old 
Katie to help us if we tried to serve 
dinner or lunch for them. Who knows 
if they would even appreciate this dear 
old house!" 

"My little girl," her mother spoke 
earnestly, "you must not let go these 
school friends, warm-hearted, genuine 
girls in spite of the so-called society life 
which Evelyn and some of them lead. 



354 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The mere fact that you no longer have 
your city home, and that this old place 
of Grandfather's now shelters you, does 
not change you. Welcome the girls to 
your new home, you, too, have something 
to give and you need not fear to accept 
what these friends offer you." 

Encouraged and half persuaded, Bess 
accepted the tempting invitation from 
Evelyn, the pink dress was brought out, 
and over their busy needles the mother 
and daughter discussed the possibilities 
for entertaining. 

It being early in December, Bess and 
her mother decided that their house- 
warming, so to speak, should occur at 
New Year, the guests being given long 
warning to insure their acceptance. 
The six dearest friends, who had so 
persistently dragged Bess from her rural 
obscurity back to familiar and beloved 
New York, were to be the first guests 
in the new-old home. 

Following the joyous acceptance of 
the six girls, came busy hours of planning 
and preparation. Advised by Mrs. 
Leighton, Bess agreed that the charm 
of the old home lay in its individuality 
and that no attempt should be made to 
give it a city atmosphere. The girls 
were to know the house in its old-time 
aspect, only brightened and cheered by 
Christmas greens and many open fires. 
That they might better become ac- 
quainted with each of the four square 
rooms of the lower floor of the big old 
house whose two parlors, sitting room 
and dining room with the kitchen, all 
seemed surely built for hospitality, wise 
Mrs. Leighton evolved an original plan. 
Her scheme greatly favored honest 
Katie, a good, plain cook with small 
experience in serving, and likewise made 
the preparations much easier for herself 
and Bess. 

New Year's Day saw a bevy of smartly 
dressed girls alight from the train at the 
little station, cheeks rosy and eyes bright 
from their brief walk in the country air. 
Over the front door hung a bunch of 
mistletoe, and under it Bess kissed each 



guest saying, ** Welcome, welcome to my 
new home!" 

Gay little Evelyn, the first of the 
merry group to enter, stopped spell- 
bound at sight of the wide, fire-lit spaces. 

"Why Betty," she exclaimed, when 
she had her breath, "you lucky girl!" 

"Hurry up stairs, girls, and get your 
things off," urged Mrs. Leighton, "this 
is a country luncheon and we'll make 
ourselves comfortable." A few minutes 
later she ushered them into the front 
parlor, warmed by a Franklin stove at 
one end and a fire place at the other. 
Old-fashioned landscape paper covered 
the walls, a family portrait or two 
regarded the guests benignly, dark 
Brussels carpet covered the floor and 
made a background for Mrs. Leighton's 
treasured Persian rugs. Looking away 
from the heavy old furniture, the de- 
lighted girls saw a mahogany table and 
eight high-backed chairs, the table 
covered with linen doilies, and here 
appeared the first installment of the 
feast, grape fruit surmounted by maras- 
chino cherries. Little place cards in- 
dicated their seats, a big bunch of real 
country berries were in the center. On 
each card Bess had written a New Year 
jingle and these were read to the gay 1 
audience amid much applause. 

"A blessing on the New Year day, 
That brought you out this snowy way." 

"Do keep on coming to my house, 
Though I've become a country mouse." 

'This simple life is not so bad 
With here and there a country lad." 

"Since we've begun the New Year right 
Let's all keep in each other's sight." 

"The New Year points an eager hand 
To Grandpa's house and Grandpa's land. 

"Pile on the wood, the air is chill, 
We'll eat our New Year luncheon still." 

"I got that last idea from an old 
English verse," explained Bess honestly, 
"I feel it but fair to say." 

When the grape fruit was finished, 
Bess led the way into the back parlor, 
her mystified guests following on, and 



1 



A NEW YEAR LUNCHEON 



355 



swung open the folding doors which had 
been carefully closed. 

Here, too, was firelight reflected in the 
brass candlesticks on the mantel; a 
cabinet in the corner held carved toys 
brought from distant lands by a sea- 
faring uncle. A table held the center of 
the room, steaming bouillon waited 
them on an improvised holiday luncheon 
set of crepe paper, in a poinsettia design. 

"Come while everything is hot, girls, 
and explore later," called Bess, and her 
guests slipped informally into the horse- 
hair covered chairs. 

"And now for the country dining 
room and a country menu," said Mrs. 
Leighton when the bouillon with its 
attendant saltines and olives, had been 
appropriated. 

The big square dining-room blazed 
with sunshine; a coal fire shone in the 
corner, rows of red-blossomed geraniums 
flanked the windows and on the table 
stood an old-fashioned holiday meal, a 
big stuffed turkey with vegetables, 
cranberry jelly, pickles and celery. 

"I never saw anything so tempting," 
exclaimed one of the girls, "and such 
lots of everything; the sight of that 
whole turkey makes me positively 
ravenous." 

They sat long around the well-laden 
table, enjoying the country food, looking 
with interest at home-grown vegetables 
which had never seen a market and 
admiring the center piece of red and 
yellow apples from the near-by orchard, 
whose bare branches were now snow- 
laden. Mrs. Leighton told them of 
family gatherings in this same room 
when uncles, aunts and cousins had 
crowded this long table while she and 
the other children sat at a little table in 
the corner. 

"Another move, girls," said Bess, 
and the merry company rose to their 
feet with bright anticipations of another 
surprise. 

"I must and will walk about a moment 
Betty," said one of the girls, "this room 
is the most fascinating of all and, further- 



more, it is the part of wisdom to exercise 
a bit before trying to eat any more." 

The library warranted some enthu- 
siasm, for here town and country had 
blended happily. Low bookcases held 
old books mingled with the Leighton' s 
more modern library; a Grandfather's 
clock ticked in the corner, the dark 
wood of Bess' grand piano tuned well 
with the prevailing scheme. The center 
table, cleared of books and magazines, 
held the now familiar pile of plates and 
— joy of joys — two fragrant, spicy 
mince pies! 

"Made after my grandmother's own 
rule," said Mrs. Leighton. "And the 
best ever," chorused the girls. 

"The last stop is the fireplace, my 
dears," and Mrs. Leighton took her 
place before the silver service at the low 
table where dancing flames were sup- 
plementing the failing sunlight. The 
girls gathered about her, tiny cups in 
hand. They perched upon the floor, 
on chair arms or stray hassocks — a 
contented group. Their soft voices min- 
gled in plans for the New Year and in 
praise for their country day. 

"This wasn't a luncheon, it was a 
dinner, Bess!" 

"It's the nicest affair I ever attended, 
— a progressive function served through 
this fascinating house!" 

"Send for me soon again, Betty, and 
save me the shame of inviting myself." 

"The lovely part is, that we have 
found out how near by you are." 

"It's the nicest house I ever saw!" 

In the early twilight Bess walked 
home alone from the little station where 
she had waved a last good-bye to her 
departing guests. Grandfather's house 
was cheery with lights; a home now, 
not just a refuge. Impetuously she 
threw her arms around her mother, who 
met her at the door. 

"They loved our New Year luncheon 
and the house!" she cried, "every bit 
of it! They're crazy to come again, 
and, mother, but for you I should have 
lost them all out of my life." 



Belgium and the Food Question 

By Roy Temple House 

Late Member of the American Commission for Relief in Belgium. 



IT happened that at the time when a 
group of us entered Belgium, there 
were heavy movements of troops 
across German territory, necessitating 
the closing of the frontier to the Com- 
mission autos which are ordinarily 
allowed free passage between Holland 
and Belgium. Under these circum- 
stances, it was necessary for us to take 
the Dutch train to the frontier, and the 
Belgian train, — or more strictly the 
German train, since the Belgian railroads 
are now entirely in German hands, — 
from the frontier to Brussels. In peace 
times a through train makes the run 
from Rotterdam to Brussels in three or 
four hours ; in these troubled days hearts 
beat fast but trains run slowly, and it 
took us all day to reach the stricken cap- 
ital. At Antwerp they unloaded us and 
left us for two hours in the third-class 
waiting-room, although we had second- 
class tickets. We had had nothing to 
eat since morning, and negotiations 
with the waitress, which were compli- 
cated by the fact that she could speak 
neither French nor German and none of 
us knew a word of Flemish, finally 
resulted in the arrival of five portions of 
heavy brown bread and ham sausage, 
with coffee and sugar. The bread was 
the Commission's " eighty-two per cent," 
with a portion of maize mixed with the 
wheat; the sausage was painfully thin; 
the sugar for the coffee, a coarse beet- 
sugar, came on in tiny plates, like indi- 
vidual butter-dishes. Being beet-sugar 
there was scarcely enough to affect the 
flavor of the coffee. Some one called 
for more; the maiden, in determined 
pantomine, refused to bring another 
grain. The aggrieved American went to 
the man at the counter and complained. 
"My dear sir," said that functionary, 
"you forget that you are in starving 



Belgium. We are not allowed to serve 
more than one helping of sugar to a 
guest, at any price. We must conserve 
the country's supplies." It was not the 
last time certain Americans in Belgium 
lacked sugar. The shop-windows in 
Brussels are lined with cakes and pastry 
which are veritable apples of Sodom for 
want of sweetness. 

Belgium is the most thickly-populated 
country of Europe, her agricultural 
resources are extremely limited, and 
thousands of her people would probably 
have starved, if Herbert C. Hoover, 
placed in charge of the American Com- 
mission for Relief, which was organized 
soon after the beginning of the war, had 
not secured the permission of the Eng- 
lish government to import certain nec- 
essary food-supplies. This permission 
was not obtained without heroic effort. 
"You are asking us to allow you to feed 
our enemies," the English told Hoover, 
"for feeding the Belgians is indirectly 
feeding Germany." "I am asking per- 
mission to keep life in the brave little 
nation that saved you from defeat," 
said Hoover. "You English certainly 
do not propose to repay them for what 
they did for you by letting them starve." 
And be it said to the eternal credit of 
England, she consented to Mr. Hoover's 
plan, although there had been a certain 
elem.ent of justice in her objection. The 
consent of Germany was more easily 
obtained; but ever since the victualling 
of Belgium began, there have been a 
thousand difficulties and a thousand 
objections, now from London, now from 
Berlin, whose adjustment has made 
Mr. Hoover's life a burden, and which 
would probably long ago have disheart- 
ened a man of ordinary resourcefulness 
and ordinary patience. 

The Commission imports only a lim- 



356 



BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION 



357 



ited number and amount of commodities, 
on the basis of explicit agreements with 
the EngHsh government. These com- 
modities are grain from North and South 
America, which is ground into flour of 
uniform fineness in Belgian mills under 
Commission supervision, and baked into 
bread by Belgian bakers, to be' sold at a 
uniform price fixed by the Commission; 
lard and bacon; rice, peas and beans; 
and occasionally a little more; but the 
list is a drearily short one at best . There 
are forty Americans in Belgium, sta- 
tioned at the provincial capitals to see 
that these supplies are properly distri- 
buted to the Belgian population, and 
that they are not distributed to the_ 
occupying Germ.ans. The instant Eng- 
land conceives the suspicion that a cer- 
tain commodity is reaching the Germans, 
directly or indirectly, she withdraws 
permission for the importation of that 
commodity. Thus, when she learned 
that a German decree had confiscated 
all wool in Belgian territor}^ the Com- 
mission was at once prohibited from 
importing clothing. But it must be said 
in general that the Germans are scrupu- 
lously faithful in holding to their agree- 
ment that Commission supplies shall go 
exclusively to the Belgians, and that 
England's confidence, not only, in Mr. 
Hoover's disinterested fairness but in 
the workableness of his plan, has been 
amply justified. 

There are a thousand detail difiiculties 
in the way of carrying on the distribution 
so as to satisfy both England and Ger- 
many. For instance, only inhabitants 
of the country are to be fed; agreed. 
But who are inhabitants of the country? 
What shall we do with the Germans, — 
and there are thousands of them, — who 
have made their home in Belgium for 
years? Their interests are in Belgium, 
they have helped to make the country, — 
shall they be left to starve because they 
happen to be of the same blood as the 
occupying army? And if long residence 
in Belgium is accepted as a claim to a 
share of the Commission's supplies, just 



how long must this residence have been? 
This particular question was finally 
settled by an agreement that bo7m fide 
residence in Belgium before August, 19 14, 
entitles the resident to a bread-card no 
matter what his nationality; but this 
question is only one of many which have 
troubled the sleep of the Americans for 
two years. 

The food crosses the Atlantic in what- 
ever bottoms the Commission can lay 
hold of, - — and ships have been increas- 
ingly hard to secure. More than one 
Commission boat has struck a mine in 
the Channel. If the cargo reaches Rot- 
terdam in safety, it is transferred to a 
Commission lighter, after which it makes 
its way up one of the Dutch-Belgian 
canals to a destination in Belgium or even 
in the part of Northern France which 
is occupied by the Germans, and which 
is handled by the Commission almost 
exactly as Belgium is handled. These 
canal-boats, which are manned by Bel- 
gian lightermen, need careful watching, 
for their cargo has been known to dim- 
inish unaccountably on the in-voyage, 
and the out-bound trip has been made 
with human freight of the masculine 
gender and of military age. There is a 
story that a lighter which came up from 
the south with papers showing five on 
board , including the skipper's wife, under- 
took to pass the border with a crew of 
six; and though one of the party was 
manifestly a very recent arrival, the 
boat was held till instructions came from 
German headquarters in Brussels that a 
new-born baby might be allowed to go 
out of the country even though he could 
show neither pass-port nor identity- 
card. 

Approximately one-third of the popu- 
lation of Belgium is dependent on charity 
and receives the Commission's supplies 
gratis. The remaining two-thirds pay 
a fair price for what the}^ receive, and 
the modest profit on this part of the 
enterprise pays part of the cost of the 
charity; which is fortunate, since gifts to 
the Commission are less generous than 



358 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



they were when the work was still young. 
The existence of the Commission is a 
godsend even to the part of the popula- 
tion which still has money, for it would 
otherwise be impossible to secure suffi- 
cient food at any price, to say nothing of 
the moderate rates charged by the Com- 
mission. Bread is cheaper in Brussels 
than in Holland, England or Germany. 
There is probably less suffering in Bel- 
gium now than in Germany or Austria; 
and it is the American Commission which 
has made the difference. 

Still, the Belgian is far from happy on 
his present diet. He has never taken to 
coarse breads as kindly as the German, 
and the "eighty-two per cent" troubles 
him. He is used to a highly-refined 
flour, and brown bread is hard on his 
stomach, — or he thinks it is, which 
amounts to the same thing. He often 
has a very real cause of grievance in the 
soggy condition of the bread. Bakers 
are constantly being haled before the 
Commission for furnishing poorly-baked 
bread, and universally represent that 
they cannot dry their bread out properly 
and at the same time keep it up to the 
standard of weight which the Commis- 
sion exacts. White flour can be ob- 
tained only on a doctor's certificate, 
except by the pastry-bakers, who are a 
distinct class from the bread-bakers, and 
many of whom are growing rich from the 
horrible prices which they extort from 
the sugar-starved population. 

The American Commission has con- 
ducted a campaign of education as well 
as a charity and a great mercantile enter- 
prise. For six months Horace Fletcher 
beamed on Brussels as a volunteer mem- 
ber; and several valuable recipe-books 
have been issued through the good offices 
of the Commission and its Belgian part- 
ner, the "Comite National de Secours et 
d' Alimentation." Indian corn, which 
used to be sold in western Europe at the 
apothecary shop and by the ounce, is 
coming into its own as an inexpensive, 
palatable and nutritious food. "Pork- 
and-beans," — a phrase which the inhabi- 



tants pronounce in one word, with as 
little sense of its real meaning as we have 
for the real Indian force of the word 
succotash, — have been admitted in cans 
at one time and another, and though 
American beans are totally different in 
flavor from the native haricots, the 
inhabitants have eaten them and given 
God thanks. For a year or more 
Brussels had an "American store," — in 
the same building with the Commission's 
offices, — where a variety of American 
canned products were to be had for a 
fraction of what native canned goods 
cost in the regular stores. Many a time 
I have seen hundreds of patient citizens, 
from every rank of society, standing 
hours in line for a ten-cent can of pump- 
kin or tomatoes. But the store was not 
well managed, and was finally abandoned. 
As for native products, they are grow- 
ing scarcer and scarcer, and only mil- 
lionaires can afford them. Meat costs 
dollars a pound. The leading restaurant 
in Brussels furnishes noon lunch to the 
members of the Commission in the 
Commission building, and the head- 
waiter quarrels with the Americans if 
they undertake to appropriate a second 
slice of the roast. A confectioner who 
had, as it happened, bought several 
thousand pounds of sweet chocolate 
just before the outbreak of the war 
held it several months and sold it at a 
profit of five hundred per cent. The 
cost of living has been multiplied in- 
stead of added, and this increase has 
fallen most heavily upon the self-re- 
specting middle classes, who were ac- 
customed to living well but had little 
or no margin of savings. The pro- 
letariat is thriving under the present 
regime. It is said that the infant 
mortality of Brussels is lower than in 
peace times, because the slum children, 
at least, are better and raore intelli- 
gently nourished. But the families of 
school-teachers, artists, educated pro- 
fessional men, who have been left penni- 
less by the cataclysm, are suffering hor- 
ribly, in body and in spirit. To a 



BELGIUM AND THE FOOD QUESTION 



359 



greater extent than is generally known, 
perhaps, prosperous Belgium herself has 
taken care of indigent Belgium. A deli- 
cate charity is the " Assistance Discrete," 
whose recipients, men and women of 
refinement and education, receive their 
dole by number and not by name; and 
a widely-sold medal bears the legend, 
" Donne et tais-toi " — " Give, and say 
nothing." 

But there are many much-needed 
supplies which money will not buy in 
Belgium. The Belgians are almost as 
dependent on potatoes as the Irish 
themselves, and as their native crop is 
normally large, the Commission has 
never been allowed to import potatoes. 
For governmental purposes the part of 
Belgium and Northern France which is 
held by the Germans has been divided 
into several distinct districts, and the 
transfer of commodities from one to 
another is a difficult matter. So it 
came about this spring that while 
potatoes were going to waste in the 
West, Brussels had none. Brussels 
without potatoes is like Naples without 
spaghetti, and the city was dangerously 
near a potato-riot. 



Many Belgians, as well no doubt as 
many residents of the other belligerent 
countries, are finding their compulsory 
dieting a blessing in disguise. A rich 
notary of Louvain tells of himself that, 
when the Germans took possession of 
that city, they carried him off and kept 
him prisoner in Western Germany for 
three months. Used as he was to deli- 
cately prepared foods, he found it almost 
impossible to eat the stuff his captors set 
before him; and even after he had suc- 
ceeded in overcoming his repugnance in 
some measure, his allowance was so 
small that he fully expected to starve. 
For the first time in his life he knew the 
pangs of real hunger; but hunger does 
not kill, and when he was finally re- 
leased and shipped home, he discovered 
that he was not only still alive, but much 
more healthily alive than before. He 
had gone into Germany a dyspeptic. 
Now he was able to digest sole-leather, 
and he felt the purely physical joy of 
living as he had not known it since 
childhood. There are some phases of the 
Great War which are not wholly de- 
pressing. Its vicissitudes and horrors 
can never be described. 



The Forest Elves 

The forest elves are sounding 
Their wildwood harps of gold. 
O'er hill and dale resounding 
Rings out the measure bold. 
In every leafy hollow 
The fairy revellers meet. 
But — woe to those who follow 
The dance of elfin feet! 



The firefly lights are glancing 
All down the shadowed way, 
To light them to their dancing, 
While the elfin harpers play. 
O, hark! the haunting measure 
Comes lilting up the glen! 
But — 'ware the alluring pleasure, 
Seek not the fairy men! 

Christine Kerr Davis. 



Talks to a Normal Class 



By Mary D. Chambers 

Atithor of ''''Principles of Food Preparation'''' 



v.— The Lesson, Continued. 
The Art of Questioning 

SOMEBODY has said that the art 
of teaching is the art of question- 
ing, that "we question things into 
our pupils, and then we question them 
out of them." Badly framed questions 
will unfailingly quench knowledge — a 
mode of "questioning out" not meant 
by the one who framed the aphorism. 

In the preparation of the lesson m.ore 
time and thought should be given to 
careful selection and wording of the 
questions than to almost anything else. 
Perhaps the first thing to remember is 
that the questions should be attractive, 
should arouse interest in the class, should 
vivify and brighten up and stimulate as 
much as a good game — they should be 
as interesting to the child as any other 
phase of the lesson. To this end the 
teacher should constantly vary her 
method of putting them, should guard 
against getting into ruts in the form of 
her queries, should introduce the unex- 
pected, the surprise, once in a while, or 
she might sometimes sugar-coat a ques- 
tion in a brief anecdote or story. About 
this I shall have more to say another day. 

A question should, nine times out of 
ten, appeal to the understanding rather 
than to the memory. For instance: 
"Nam.e the nutrient food principles and 
give their uses in the body, " is a mechan- 
ical and uninteresting question, which 
could be answered from memory and in 
a m.echanical and superficial way. But 
if fram.ed in some such way as: "What 
food principle do yon need more of in 
proportion to your weight than I need?' 
addressed to one of your twelve-year-olds 
will come as a surprise, will be full of 
interest, will instantly appeal to the 
understanding, and will be a more real 



test of the child's knowledge of the 
nutrients and their function. 

A question should never give too 
much information, it should rather be 
delightfully mysterious. I have heard a 
teacher say: "A perfect food is one 
which contains the five food principles 
in good proportion to sustain life and 
growth. Name some perfect food." 
I have heard another say : "What makes 
the bones of the little calf grow stronger 
and firmer every week? What builds 
up his muscles and gives him energy to 
jump about the pasture? What other 
young animals get energy and develop 
growth of bone and muscle from some' 
one food alone? What would you call 
a food that is able to do all this?" 

A question should not be so worded 
that it can be answered merely by "Yes" 
or "No," or by either one of any two 
words. For example: "Does sugar 
brown quicker than starch?" can be 
answered by "Yes" or "No," and hints 
at the answer the teacher wants. 
"Which browns the quicker, starch or 
sugar?" is little better, for the pupil will 
be very likely to guess, the chances being 
even that her guess will be right, and to 
guess at an answer rather than to think 
it out is to pursue the line of least resis- 
tance — the most natural thing for child 
or adult. "Why will your biscuits be a 
better brown if you brush over the tops 
with a mixture of sugar and water?" 
seems to me a better way to get at the 
generalization. 

There is another kind of question 
which to my mind is the worst of all, 
this is the so-called "leading question." 
This form of query is made use of by 
skilful lawyers for the purpose of "lead- 
ing" or prompting a witness to say what 
they want him to say. ' ' Is rice a starchy 
food?" illustrates this type of question 



360 



TALKS TO A NORMAL CLASS 



361 



in the cooking class. It is time-saving 
— also thought-saving — and is a kind 
of question I very particularly despise. 
All it demands of the pupil is passive 
assent. 

I have heard pedagogues utter warn- 
ings against the elliptical question, such 
as: "The temperature of water at the 
simmering point is — ?" the student to 
fill in only the missing word. A good 
question should call for a sentence in 
reply. Some teachers train their stu- 
dents to incorporate every question in 
the answer, thus producing a sentence 
willy-nilly. "What is the effect of 
paring potatoes before cooking?" 
Answer: "The effect of paring potatoes, 
before cooking is" etc. I like this 
method of answering in a -written test 
rather than cop^^ng out each question 
before writing the answer as badly 
trained students will do, but orally the 
unnecessary repetition, the long-drawn- 
outness of the answers would bore me 
to death. Probably this is heretical, 
you must not mistake for authority 
what may be only prejudice. 

In framing your questions try to make 
them brief, simple in language, very 
clear and unambiguous. One of the 
finest and most inspiring teachers I ever 
had, a man of international repute, 
had an unhappy habit of making lengthy 
big-worded questions, full of modifying 
phrases and subordinate clauses, periodic 
in structure and whole paragraphs in 
length. You should see how the vivid 
interest he could enkindle in his class 
during the lecture would suddenly be 
quenched, and the sparkle go out of the 
faces, when he began his questions. 
There was another professor who could 
tune us all up at the end of the hour and 
send us out of class stimulated by his 
happier method of questioning. This is 
no small gift. 

As a general rule a question is better 
addressed to an individual than to the 
class, and — likewise as a general rule — 
it is better to put the question first and 
append the pupil's name last. 



Questions should be adapted to the 
ability of the individual to whom they 
are addressed — but neither this nor any 
of the other rules I have given should 
be slavishly or unintelligently adhered 
to. I had once a ver}^ mixed class, so 
far as training and intelligence went. 
There were three of four students who 
could eat up and digest the difficulties 
of the subject with splendid facility. 
I used purposely to frame very hard 
questions for them, they enjoyed so 
much the use of their brains, and were 
so quick to think, so ready with response 
so full of pleasure in conquering hardness. 
In the same class were two or three 
back^^ard, timid, lovely girls, who were 
very easily discouraged. I used to make 
up questions for them that I knew they 
could answer — nice easy ones — and I 
quite plumed myself on my tactfulness 
in adapting the burden to the back. I 
thought I did it so very skilfulh^ In a 
heart-to-heart talk with one of these 
girls she told me it htuniliated her alwa^^s 
to be given the easy questions. She 
said she knew she could not answer the 
difficult ones, but she did not like to be 
singled out for nothing but eas}^ ones. 
What blunderers we teachers can be! 
At the same time that I hurt the sensi- 
tive pupils, I suppose I fostered pride 
and vanity in the brilliant ones. 

Don't let your children wave their 
arms wildly while some girl is trying to 
think out an answer to a question. 
Besides being not at all courteous, the 
time and place for such violent exercises 
is during the gymnasium period. 

Where the point of the question lies 
in the little "Why?" tacked on at the 
end, it seems to lose force, and is often 
ignored by the pupil. Thus, such a 
question as: "Which did, the pared or 
the unpared apple, bake the quicker, and 
why?" had better be framed: "State 
what you think is the reason why one of 
the apples baked quicker than the 
other." 

In concluding this brief discussion of 
the art of questioning, let me emphasize 



362 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the point that questioning is faulty, if 
there is any personal consciousness. 
The student should feel that the subject 
is the great thing, not the glib, self- 
complacent answer. The best answers 



to the best questions should be con- 
tributions to the good of the class, helps 
to the elucidation of the subject for 
their benefit — to stimulate the thought 
and enthusiasm of the pupils. 



The Birds' Christmas Tree 



By Seymour See 



IT was the day after Christmas in 
California but Christmas was not 
over. No, indeed! The birds had 
not had their tree yet, and Peter, the 
mocking bird, acted as if he knew it. 
He was sitting up in the peach tree 
watching the kitchen door, and calling. 
He had a way of giving his tail a quick 
little flirt and saying, "Good! Good" way 
down in his throat. It sounded like 
"Chug! Chug!" Then some times he 
would call, "Peter! Peter! Hurry, hurry, 
hurry !" his voice running right down hill. 
This morning he was saying it all, and it 
was so loud and clear that Clyde and 
Ethel ran out to see him. 

"Hello, Peter," called Clyde. "Are 
you wishing us 'Merry Christmas' ?" 

"Good! Good!" answered Peter, flying 
a little nearer. 

"All right, thank you ! Same to your- 
self !" laughed Clyde. "Here is a bite of 
meat, Peter, and now you skip. No 
birds allowed in this yard for an hour." 

"Hurry and go, Peter!" commanded 
Ethel.** We'll whistle when we want you," 
and she followed Clyde into the house. 

In a minute, the children came out 
bringing with them a big branch that 
had been cut off of their Christmas tree, 
and they planted it in the middle of the 
yard. 

"Whew, it's big!" cried Ethel. "We'll 
have to stand on a box to trim the top. 
I'm going to get the wreaths," and she 
ran into the house again for the wreaths 
with the beautiful red berries that had 
been hanging in their windows. 



"Let's play that the berries are can- 
dles," said Clyde. "They are so bright 
and red, and there are about a million of 
them, so we can put them on all the little 
branches." 

"All right! And we'll make swings of 
the pop corn. The birds will like that. 
Oh, there's Peter back again!" Sure 
enough there was the mocking bird sit- 
ting on the fence watching them, and he 
suddenly called: 

' ' Peter ! Peter ! Hurry, hurry, hurry !" 

"Peter, you go right away. It's no 
fair watching us. This is going to be a 
surprise. Shoo!" called Ethel, shaking 
her apron at him, but he was not afraid 
and only flew to the peach tree where he 
could see them even better. 

"Never mind, Ethel, if he does look," 
whispered Clyde, "for he doesn't really 
know whose tree this is. Now I am 
going to tie on some of those shiny red 
apples." 

"Here," said mother coming out with 
a tiny basket filled with bits of meat, 
"here is the turkey for the birds, and here 
is the salad," handing Ethel some lettuce 
and long red peppers, "We must tie 
the basket up in the very top of the tree, 
or a certain little dog we know will smell 
the meat first thing and eat it up in three 
bites. Perhaps we shall have to keep 
him in the house so that he will know he 
is not invited to this tree." 

"Mother, do you suppose the birds 
will care if I put the seeds in the dolls' 
bath tub?" asked Ethel. "It won't 
upset, and the baskets are so tippy. 



THE BIRDS' CHRISTMAS TREE 



363 



Why, Clyde, what are you doing with 
that baked potato?" 

**Look?" he answered. "I made two 
potato cups, and they look as if they were 
filled with milk. I'm going to tie them 
up near the meat to show the birds what 
things go together. What did you get 
that little glass slipper for?" - 

"Oh, you see, the birds haven't any 
stockings to hang up and the slipper is 
the nearest thing I could find," said 
Ethel. 'Tt is for nuts and the birds will 
have to get clear inside of it to reach 
those in the toe. Won't that be fun? 
Think of birds wearing a shoe !" 

"I believe that's everything, isn't it?" 
asked Clyde back to look at the little 
tree. "Where would you put this?" 
and he held up a piece of paste board on 
which he had printed, BIRDS' CHRIST- 
MAS TREE. 

"Oh, higher it to the top, and lower 
the meat the least bit. There! The 
birds can read that from the fence. And 
isn't the tree just beau-ti-ful? Let's 
name all the things they will have to eat, 
the way we do our dinner. First, they 
have turkey made of meat; then, the 
vegetables — well — they can be pota- 
toes and pop corn; and lettuce is the 
salad." 

"And let's have the apples for mince 
pie," laughed Clyde. "Gee, but they 
are going to have a big dinner!" 

"The brown bread can be the plum 
pudding. I'll put a few nuts in the 
cracks," said Ethel pressing them into 
the bread. ' ' Of course, we ought to have 
pop corn for the ice cream, but we can't 
because it's vegetables. There is only 
one thing left, and that's the peppers so 
they have to be the ice cream — straw- 
berry ice cream because they are red. 
Won't the birds be surprised to find it so 
warm?" 

"And the water I put in the pan has to 
be water and milk, too. Do you think, 
mother, Peter would expect coffee be- 
cause he is so grown up? Well, water 
can be that, too." 

So the tree with all the red berries and 



shining apples, the long strings of pop 
corn and the gay little baskets, the 
potato cups and the glossy red peppers 
was finished. Ethel picked up the doll's 
bell and rang it with all her might ; then 
Clyde gave three sharp whistles, and 
called : 

"Christmas tree, Peter. Tell all the 
birds to come." 

A whole flock of birds started out of a 
big cedar tree over in the vacant lot and 
flew above the yard. Peter and several 
others came to the top of the fig tree, and 
he answered quickly: 

"Peter! Peter! Hurry, hurry, hurry!" 

"Come, birdies, every one of you," 
called Ethel softly, "Merry Christmas 
to all the bird family." Then she and 
mother and Clyde went up on the back 
porch where they kept very quiet so that 
they could watch the birds. 

The first to reach the Christmas tree 
was Peter, but Mrs. Peter came right 
after him, and before they could take 
two bites, down flew a great lot of linnets. 
Such a dinner party you never saw, and 
such a chattering you never heard! 
Each one helped himself, and they all ran 
a race to see which one could eat the 
most, and they talked all the time. 
Pretty soon there was not a bit of meat 
left in the basket, the potato cups were 
empty, there were big holes in the apples, 
the lettuce was in rags, and the pop corn 
swings were mostly strings. Peter tried 
to eat a red berry, but found he could not 
swallow another bite. It was all he 
could do to fly over to the fence, and it 
was all the other birds could do to fly to 
the fig tree. Clyde and Ethel laughed 
to see them, and that made the birds look 
around at them. 

"Good! Good!" chugged Peter. 

"Chirp! Chirp! Chirr-rrp!" said the 
other birds. 

"The little things are just stuffed, but 
they are trying to say 'Thank you'!" 
whispered Ethel. 

"All right Peter! All right, other 
birds !" called Clyde. "You are welcome. 
Merry Christmas again!" 



B 



rau oaums 



Torte 



By Jane New 



AT the invitation of my hostess I 
remained a day longer than my 
well-arranged schedule had al- 
lowed but, as I was to meet Frau 
Baum, of whom I had heard such an 
interesting account, the disarrange- 
ment of my schedule seemed of small 
moment. 

Frau Baum was a Berlin lady who 
had lived in America but a few months. 
I, of course, was eager to know her, but 
my greater interest was aroused by the 
tales of her delicious Nut Tortes, and 
she had graciously consented to come 
to the home of my hostess and make 
one of these cakes for my particular 
edification and delectation. Naturally, 
I intended to profit thereby. 

I hoped she would consent to divulge 
the secret of the making, if there was 
one, as I felt sure I could not resist the 
temptation of trying to learn how to 
make them. 

The next day arrived accompanied by 
a heavy shower, but Frau Baum hero- 
ically braved the elements and arrived, 
rubber shod, altho my hostess confided 
in me, as Frau Baum had in her, the 
good Frau's necessity, owing to her 
figure, of putting on her rubbers before 
that other article of raiment so neces- 
sary to a woman's good appearance. 
I wondered if she had arrived at this 
state by a too frequent indulgence in 
such gastronomic feasts as nut tortes. 

Frau Baum pleasantly surprised me, 
altho she had, vulgarly speaking, Schu- 
mann Heink backed off the boards, 
when referring to her too solid flesh, 
she still retained some grace, and she 
spoke a cultivated English, not picked 
up in America, but acquired, at great 
pains, in Berlin. 

After social formalities were over we 
repaired to the kitchen. Frau Baum 
accompanied by an interesting looking 



German cook book, which I regretted 
being unable to read. 

Soon she found the right recipe and 
read, "Fourteen ounces of ground wal- 
nuts." My hostess busied herself grind- 
ing nuts. 

''Twelve eggs," she read. I hastened 
to get the eggs; then she asked me to 
separate them. While I did that she 
weighed out 14 ounces of sugar; this she 
added to the twelve egg-yolks, then she 
rolled up her sleeves from her plump 
arms, held her hands under the water 
faucet for a moment, dried them and 
then put them into the egg and sugar 
mixture and beat violently. 

I beat the whites, with an egg-beater, 
while our hostess finished grinding nuts 
and greased the cake tins and Frau 
Baum continued to stir, in the yellow 
bowl, an equally yellow mass. 

Soon the mixture arrived at what she 
considered a sufficiently creamy state, 
and then she added gradually and al- 
ternately the ground nuts and egg- 
whites. Then the mixture was placed 
in the pans while I looked and foolishly 
reiterated, " no flour." 

We used two deep cake tins, altho 
Frau Baum said in Berlin she used one 
tin and then cut the cake to form two 
layers. I have since decided, they like 
to make work in Berlin. 

We baked this torte thirty minutes. 
Frau Baum said in the deeper tin she 
baked it forty minutes. 

When the cake was safely in the oven, 
all hands busied themselves making the 
filling. 

" One quarter pound of ground al- 
monds and yolks of four eggs," read 
Frau Baum. 

I blanched the almonds and ground 
them and our hostess separated the 
eggs. Frau Baum measured a cup of 
milk to which she added two ounces of 



364 



FRAU BAUM'S TORTE 



365 



sugar, altho she remarked, " govern use 
of sugar according to taste." 

She dissolved the sugar in the milk 
and then placed the milk directly on the 
gas flame; when it was hot she added 
one teaspoon of corn starch dissolved in 
a little milk. She said she used potato 
flour in Berlin which did not require as 
much cooking. 

She stirred and stirred and I, fearful 
that the mixture might burn, suggested 
the use of a double boiler. 

" Yes," said Frau Baum, "American 
women use double boilers, we stir." 

She said this in a manner of such 
assured superiority, I was completely 
quelled by the thought of our irrespon- 
sible, easy going American dependence 
upon shiftless labor saving devices. 

While I reflected, my German friend 
continued to stir and stir and grow 



redder and redder. After several min- 
utes' cooking she removed the mixture 
from the flame and added, one at a 
time, the four egg-yolks, stirring vigor- 
ously the while, this time with a spoon, 
then the almonds and a teaspoon of 
vanilla, and the filling was now ready 
to set aside to cool. 

When sufficiently cool, this custard was 
spread between the cake layers. The 
result was most delectable and we found 
no difficulty in eating it that same day. 

That evening, after Frau Baum had 
been assisted into her rubbers, and was 
being escorted home by my host, my 
hostess said, "I wonder how Frau Baum 
would manage if she had to work alone; 
those German women are so distressingly 
slow," and once more my pride and faith 
in American judgment and ability was 
regained. 



The Morning Time 

The freshness of the morning time 

Revives my heart. 
The coolness of the atmosphere 

Freshness imparts my thoughts to start. 

The cobwebs of my brain are swept 

By the fresh air. 
The currents of my blood flow swift, 

Make my skin fair as my forebear. 

Thoughts gather swifter in my mind 

Than pen can write. 
My best work's done when early sun 

Begins to light the morning bright. 

One hour of morn is worth to me 

More than two 
In the afternoon of market time; 

Through noise and din I can not win. 

The Muses come and sing to me 

When all alone. 
Most brilliant thoughts are penned, just when 

I'm all alone, — yes all alone! 

Come take a walk in woodland paths, 

Get Inspiration. 
Let Nature whisper in your ears. 

And wake a Nation by your Creation. 

—A. W. Herr. 



366 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



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Home for Christmas 

All that the summer has scattered, 

Christmas shall bring. 
The grown-ups come from their duties 

On home-weary wing, 
The children strayed from the hearth-stone. 

With quick, eager feet 
Turn northerward in vacation, 

Finding Home sweet.' 
To you, dear, who in the gloaming 

Dre m thrre apart. 
We coine, swift home in the dawning. 

Home to your heart. 
All, all thit the summer-time scattered 

Christmas shall bring. 

— Sarah Dean Hoffman. 



THE PRICE OF PAPER 

THE price of paper is steadily- 
rising above all precedent and 
expectation. Printing paper of all 
grades is now selling at double its 
former price or what it was a year ago. 
Evidently publishers and printers will 
soon be reduced to a single alternative, 
to advance the price of all printed 
matter or go out of business. 

American Cookery has always been \ 
conservative in its management and 
distrustful of innovations, and it will , 
not now be foremost to yield to a possible \ 
necessity and change the price of its 
yearly subscription; it will hold to the 
old price, one dollar a year, as long as 
possible; hoping for more favorable 
conditions of business in the near future. 

On the first of January, however, 
we propose to make the price of a 
single copy of American Cookery, at 
the news stands, fifteen, instead of 
ten cents, for there never has been 
sufficient reason why we should sell 
single copies of the magazine at the 
same rate as the yearly subscription. 
No other periodical has ever done this. 
We think this will be just and fair all 
round, for the yearly subscription will 
remain the same, at least for the present, 
and, as a rule, securing copies regularly 
by subscription is more desirable and 
satisfactory to the purchaser. 

What we desire most of all is that 
our subscribers, as they have done in 
the past, come over and help us in the 
way of subscriptions; that is, by renew- 
ing your own subscription promptly 
and aiding us to add new names to 
our list. By sending us two new sub- 
scriptions you can have your own sub- 
scription renewed for one year; or 
you might give the magazine as an 
appropriate Christmas gift to each of 
two friends and so make two dollars i 
do the work of three. We are pleased fl 
to give cash commission or some pre- 
mium for every new subscription sent ^ 
to this office. 



EDITORIALS 



367 



You may ask how, at present cost 
of publication, increased circulation can 
be of any benefit to American Cookery. 
The answer is plain. With larger 
circulation or clientage, our oppor- 
tunities for business are increased and 
our volume of advertising is enlarged 
and made more profitable. - 

In America the signs of prosperity 
are everywhere. Everybody who wants 
to work can find occupation and that, 
too, at high wages. How long this 
state of affairs may continue no one 
can foresee. We can only try to smooth 
out the uneven, unnatural ways — 
to tide over, as it were, the disturbing 
elements of the day, until world-wide 
waste and devastation cease and more 
peaceful times prevail. 

COST OF FOOD PER PERSON 

EXTENSIVE studies of the com- 
position of food materials and 
of the amoimts consumed by man 
under widely differing conditions show 
that sufficient raw food material for 
health and production of energy may 
be secured anywhere in America within 
reach of a railroad for nine to ten cents 
per day per person, provided the appe- 
tite is strong and natural and not 
influenced by whimsical fancies. 
Thirteen to fifteen cents furnishes good 
fare for intelligent workmen whose 
wives imderstand both buying and 
cooking, and also serves for large 
establishments kept at public expense, 
such as prisons and almshouses. 

"Eighteen to twenty-five cents per 
day per person is the most which 
should be spent by those whose incomes 
are one thousand to fifteen hundred 
dollars per year. 

"Only when the income of a family 
of five individuals, including servants, 
rises above four thousand dollars a 
year should an expenditure of fifty 
cents per day per person for raw food 
materials be looked upon with com- 
placency, unless the momentary pleas- 
ures of the palate are preferred to the 



lasting pleasure of health and the 
satisfaction of the higher nature." 

The foregoing statements were written 
by Mrs. Ellen H. Richards some ten 
years ago, and they were based on 
much scientific study and research. 
How much these figures need be en- 
larged to meet the prices and conditions 
of living today each one can determine 
for himself. Items hke these mean a 
good deal. They indicate what each 
person must earn daily, in order to 
provide sufficient raw food materials 
to sustain life, unless he be otherwise 
provided for. On the same subject 
Mrs. Richards gives the following wise 
hint to housekeepers. 

"It is not the food actually eaten 
that costs so excessively, it is that 
wasted by poor cooking, by excessive 
quantity, and by purchase out of season, 
when the price is out of aU proportion 
to its value. Good judgment as to the 
amounts to be prepared, as to the 
harmony of the meal, the blend of 
flavor, as to the right appetizers, and 
good humor and cheerful conversation, 
with the most attractive setting and 
perfect serving, will cut down the cost 
of almost any table one half." 

"GETTING EVEN" 

A BOY is able to keep on a pretty 
fair level of good behavior for a 
long time together, but if he " slips a cog", 
he doesn't fall to a lower level, but to a 
lower inclined plane, where he is contin- 
ually sliding down or crawling up. 
There's no level to bad behavior, fortu- 
nately, or he might be tempted to re- 
main comfort abl}^ there. The old saying 
that has had so much fun poked at it, 
Be good and you will he happy, might 
better run, Be good and you will have a 
chance to stand still and get your hearings. 
If one is good long enough to become 
thoroughly rested and refreshed, one is 
even able to see the entire question of 
revenge in fan unbiased light. Down on 
the slippery inclined plane revenge looks 
wonderfully sweet, and when the other 



368 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



fellow injures you, you respond almost 
automatically, "All right, you'll be sorry ! 
I'll get even with you! And then you 
proceed to get abundantly more than 
even — along the down grade. For 
what you really mean is, "Very well, I'll 
put myself down where you are and then 
go a notch lower." Had you restrained 
your desire to get even, you might have 
gone a notch higher. And in this queer 
world every notch counts. 

However, if one must be revenged — 
and it does sometimes seem as though 
one had to have that satisfaction — the 
negative method gives the most satis- 
faction in the long run, if not immedi- 
ately. There's Benjamin Franklin, now, 
who worked faithfully and methodically 
to keep on a level of goodness, jotting 
down in a note-book the number of times 
he fell below. And while he may never 
have reached up to a great and high ideal 
of life, he was nothing if not practical, 
and one of the best entries in his note- 
books is to the effect that when anyone 
played him an unkind trick he resolved 
never to be guilty of a similar meanness. 
Nearly two thousand years before Ben- 
jamin Franklin lived another man who 
kept a notebook (Franklin kept his in 
his shop, probably). Marcus Aurelius 
kept his, at times, upon the battle-fields. 
From opposite poles these two men meet 
upon a common level of goodness to 
solve the problem of getting even, and 
both choose the negative way. The best 
way of revenge, says the Roman Emperor, 
is not to imitate the injury. 

Well, of course that's hard. When 
Dick kicks a hole in your new flying 
machine that you spent weeks in making, 
the only punishment that seems to fit 
the crime is to turn promptly and kick a 
still larger hole in his new wireless appar- 
atus. There's a poetic justice about it — 
at first glance. But we are so fearfully 
and wonderfully made that the poetry of 
it becomes prose at a very rapid rate. 
And if you hadn't made that hot and 
frantic return kick, not only might you 
and Dick at this moment be having an 
awfully good time sending messages 



through the trackless air from one station 
to another; you might even have lifted 
yourself, and Dick with you, up to a place 
where life would be delightful in propor- 
tion as rt was ^'on the level." h. C. C. 

OUR HIGHEST TRUST 

Since we are all the children of One 
Father and the world we live in is all 
our Father's house, we are to put our 
trust in him. 

"There is a Power whose care 
Teaches my way along the pathless coast." 

There is no lesson which we need so 
much, for this is a world of change, 
trouble and anxious care. Our dearest 
hopes must often be disappointed, and 
our wisest plans fail; but it is a part 
of my religion that, when we have done 
our best and planned our uttermost 
and fought our bravest, we should leave 
whatever happens to the higher wisdom 
of God our Father, and that we should 
not only accept, but accept cheerfully, 
all inevitable circumstances, however 
difficult or painful, as but the bidding 
of his power and the means employed 
by his adorable wisdom for the fulfilment 
of our highest good. — T. C. Williams, — 
in The Christian Register. 



Yule-tide Memories 

O Yule-tide, wekome season of the year, 

We greet thee now! 
And to thy hallowed memories of yore 

We haste to bow! 
How we exulted in they whistling winds 

And glistening snow. 
Thy charmed mistletoe, thy evergreens, 

And Yule-tide glow; 
Thy row of stockings by the fireplace hung 

In confidence 
That legend Santa would petitions grant, 

Blest innocence! 

Then yearly, scattered kindred homeward drew 

From far and near, 
And, mingling pearls of laughter through the halls 

With words of cheer, 
Made haste, as heralded the clock the hour 

Of glad Yule-tide, 
To carol, "Peace on earth, good will to man," 

With joyous pride. 

So memories of by-gone Yule-tide days — 

Life just begun — 
Will ever blend with those that follow on 

Till life be done! 

— Caroline Louise Sumner. 




CAKE PIPED WITH ORNAMENTAL BOILED FROSTING, WITH TUBES USED 

Tubes used: Leaf, Star, Cord. Asparagus Vine at base 

See Page 373 



Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful 



Leek-and-Potato Soup 

WASH the leeks in a bunch 
(six) cut off the roots and dis- 
card the coarsest leaves. Pare 
and parboil for three minutes six potatoes 
(of medium size) ; drain the potatoes, 
add the leeks and boiling water to cover 
well the whole. Let cook until leeks are 
tender; remove and cut in thin slices, 
then return to the potatoes; add salt 
and pepper to season, one cup of rich 
cream, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley and two tablespoonfuls of 
butter a little at a time. Serve hot with 
imperial sticks. 

Imperial Sticks 

Cut slices of bread one-fourth an inch 
thick in slices half an inch wide and the 
length of the slice; spread both sides 
with butter and set into the oven to 
brown delicately. 

369 



Salisbury Steak with Bacon, Hotel 
Style 

For this steak choicer meat than that 
used in Hamburg steak is desirable. 
In hotels where many filets of beef or 
beef tenderloins are cut into steaks or 
trimmed for roasting, the ends and 
trimmings are used for Salisbury steak. 
For home use the choicest cuts of the top 
of the round are more commonly used. 
The meat should be chopped exceedingly 
fine or the pulp scraped from the fibres, 
first on one side and then on the other. 
For each pound of prepared meat take 
one-quarter pound of beef marrow; 
crush the marrow and mix it evenly 
through the meat, then for each pound 
of beef mix in very gradually half a cup 
of cold water. Press into shape; cakes 
are most easily handled; do not press 
the mixture together too compactly, 
and keep the edge as thick as the center 



370 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



that the edge may not become over- 
cooked while the center is not cooked 
enough. Broil over coals or pan-broil 
in an exceedingly hot frying pan. In 
pan-broiling, rub over the surface of the 
pan with a bit of fat meat ; let the meat 
cook on one side till a drop of meat-juice 
shows on the top, then turn to finish 
cooking. Serve with broiled bacon and 
French fried potatoes. 

Roast Chicken, Celery Stuffing 
and Sausage 

Singe, draw, wash and wipe a young 
chicken weighing about four pounds. 



small choice pork sausage on all sides 
with a trussing needle; fasten the two 
ends of each together with small wooden 
skewers (toothpicks), add a few table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water and let cook in 
a moderate oven till done. Serve 
around the chicken. 

Minions of Beef Tenderloin, Home 
Style 

Cut a well trimmed filet of beef into 
transverse slices about one inch thick. 
Brush over with oil or melted butter 
and broil from six to ten minutes, ac- 
cording to taste. Set these on a hot 




ROAST CHICKEN. CELERY STUFFING AND SAUSAGE 



Remove the crust from bread baked 
twenty-four hours or longer. Pick the 
crumb of the bread fine. To one cup 
and a half of bread crumbs add one- 
third a cup of melted butter and three- 
fourths a cup of cooked celery, cut in 
small bits. Left-over celery in cream 
sauce may be used. Add also a scant 
half teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper 
and half a teaspoonful of powdered 
thyme. Use this to stuff the chicken. 
Truss the chicken neatly. Rub it all 
over with salt pork fat, olive or other 
oil or butter, dredge with flour and let 
bake about two hours, basting with hot 
fat and dredging with flour each fifteen 
minutes. A short time before the 
chicken is done, prick nearly a pound of 



platter in a circle. Set a floweret of 
cooked cauliflower on each minion, pour 
Hollandaise sauce over cauliflower and 
meat and fill the open center with 
potato balls, cooked Parisienne style. 
Season the potatoes with salt and 
pepper when nearly cooked. 

Potatoes Parisienne 

Select large round potatoes; pare and 
cut from them about three cups of 
small balls. Over the balls pour boil- 
ing water, add a teaspoonful of salt 
and let boil rapidly about ten minutes ; 
drain, rinse in cold water and drain 
again, then dry on a cloth. Heat a few 
tablespoonfuls of oil or clarified butter 
in a frying pan, and in it shake the pota- 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



371 




MINIONS OF BEEF TENDERLOIN, HOME STYLE 



toes over the fire; set the pan into the 
oven and let the potatoes cook, shaking 
often till uniformly browned. 

Chicken-and-Rice Timbales 

Stir half a cup of rice in about three 
cups of cold water over a quick fire 
until the water boils; let boil three 
minutes. Drain the rice on a sieve, 
letting cold water run through it mean- 
while. Set the rice to cook, in a 
double boiler, in a cup and a half of hot 
milk or chicken broth, or part of each; 
adding half a teaspoonful of salt. 
When the rice is tender and the liquid 
absorbed, add one tablespoonful of but- 
ter, half a teaspoonful or less of pepper 
and one egg beaten light. Mix thor- 
oughly and use to line four or five glass 
custard cups or good-sized individual 
timbale molds. Fill the centers with 
chopped, cooked chicken mixed with 
enough sauce (white or chicken) to hold 
the chicken together. Season the sauce 
and chicken to taste. Celery salt, 
mushrooms, catsup or onion juice with 



chopped parsley are all appropriate. 
Cover the chicken with rice. Set the 
molds on several folds of paper in a 
baking dish and surround them with 
boiling water; let cook in the oven 
about half an hour. Turn the mixture 
from the molds on a hot dish, pour over 
a cup and a half of sauce made with 
chicken broth or cream, or part of each. 
Press a small branch of parsley in the 
top of each timbale. Serve at once as 
the main dish at luncheon or supper. 
About a cup of chicken is needed. This 
is a good way to use left-over bits of 
roast chicken or turkey. The frame 
work of the poultry provides good 
broth for cooking the rice, and for sauce. 

Boiled Leeks, Hollandaise Sauce 

Trim off the roots and undesirable 
leaves. Tie together in a bunch. Cook 
until tender (about half an hour) in boil- 
ing water, adding salt when half-cooked. 
Skim from the water, cut the bunch in 
halves or thirds, crosswise. Dispose on 
toast and pour over Hollandaise sauce, 



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CHICKEN-AND-RICE TIMBALES 



372 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cream or drawn butter sauce may also 
be used. 

Fall Turnips 

Pare small white turnips, cut them in 
slices half an inch thick and let stand 
in cold water an hour or more. Cook 
in boiling water without salt about half 
an hour or until very tender; drain off 
the water, sprinkle generously with salt 
and pour over a white sauce or dress 
them with plenty of butter, letting the 
heat of the turnips dissolve the butter. 

Glazed Potatoes 

Roll small boiled potatoes in the 
slightly beaten yolk of an egg. Set 



Open Club Sandwich, Filene 
Fashion 

Remove the crust from two slices of 
bread. Toast the bread and let it cool. 
Spread it with mayonnaise. On one 
slice set heart-leaves of lettuce carefully 
washed and dried, on them set a spoonful 
of mayonnaise; above the mayonnaise a 
layer of cooked chicken breast, cut in 
thin slices, on the chicken a slice of to- 
mato, above this a spoonful of mayon- 
naise and two slices of carefully broiled 
(oven cooked) bacon. On the other 
slice, dispose heart-leaves of lettuce, 
holding a tablespoonful of mayonnaise. 
Garnish both slices with short branches 




OPEN CLUB SANDWICH, FILENE FASHION 



them on a buttered pan and let bake 
until well browned. 

Virginia Kornlet Pudding 

Melt one tablespoonful of butter; in 
it cook one tablespoonful of flour, half a 
teaspoonful each, of salt and black 
pepper; add two cups of milk and stir 
until boiling; add one tablespoonful of 
sugar, one can of kornlet and four eggs 
beaten light; mix all together thor- 
oughly and turn into a buttered baking 
dish. Let bake (in a pan of hot water) 
until firm in the center. Serve hot or 
cold as a vegetable at dinner or as the 
main dish at supper or luncheon. 



of smilax. The smilax is the Filene 
feature of the salad, but as smilax 
is not edible the decoration is open to 
criticism. 

Polly's Cinnamon Toast 

Cut the bread in slices of uniform 
thickness — three-eighths of anj inch — 
free from crust; toast to a delicate 
brown, spread with butter liberally, over 
the butter spread a layer of white clover 
honey (use a silver knife), then sprinkle 
with granulated sugar and cinnamon 
mixed together. Se