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CROWN OF RICE WITH CREAMED CHICKEN bb

AMERICAN

COOKE

FORMERLY

THE, BOSTO
ZCDRINGSCHOOLMAGAZINE

)F- CULINARY- SCIENCE^ DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS

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JUNE— JULY, 1919 im^

VOL. XXIV No. 1 llif

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PUBLISHED
BY

THE BOSTON CGDMNG
.SCHOOL MAGAZINE C<*

221 COLUMBUS AVE
BOSTON MASS

Tasty, New
Delights Follow

when the thrifty housewife uses the ideal leaven, Rumford the wholesome baking
powder for perfect baking. Rumford, so thorough and uniform in its action, in-
sures perfect lightness and fineness of texture, no matter what combination of
flours may be used. Rumford helps wonderfully to bring out all the natural sweet-
ness and flavor of the cereals. Break open a hot Rumford biscuit or muffin and you
will appreciate what is meant by the true sweetness of the flour.

Write today for your free copy of our illustrated cook book — "The Rumford
Way of Cookery and Household Economy" compiled by Janet McKenzie Hill
— tells how to entertain formally and informally — how to purchase economic-
ally and is of particular value to teachers of domestic science and their pupils.

P 74 lO 18

RUMFORD COMPANY, Providence, R. I.

RUMFORD

1 V BAKING POWDER

THE
WHOl£SOMe

American Cookery

FORMERLY

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Volume XXIV

June -July, 1919— May, 1920

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Published by

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Copyrighted, 1919, 1920, Idy.-Th-k TqsTGN 'Cooking-School Magazine Co.

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ADVERTISEMENTS

WELCOME HOMEBOYS

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GBfBeAT

Painted by Edw. V. Brewer for Cream of Wheat Company.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept' substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV JUNE-JULY, 1919 No. 1

CONTENTS FOR JUNE -JULY

PAGE

BERRYING. Ill Beulah Rector 11

THE MAYOR OF NANCY AND HOW HE FED HIS CITY. 111.

Blanche McManus 17

THE LILIES OF THE HOLY LAND Edgyth Babbitt 21

THE COMMUNITY KITCHEN— Promise or Menace

Percival B. Walmsley 22

ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES .... Kurt Heppe 23

LESSONS IN FOODS AND COOKERY, WITH SIMPLE APPLI-
ANCES. FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING

Anna Barrows 26

EDITORIALS 30

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES. (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes) Janet M.Hill 33

MENUS FOR WEEK IN JUNE " " " 41

MENUS SIMPLE, WELL-BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN JULY

Janet M.Hill 42

MENUS FOR LODGES AND BOARDS OF TRADE . " " " 43

FOOD HINTS FOR JUNE-JULY " " u 44

KATHERINE HELPS HER AUNT ELLEN Louise Bennett Weaver 46
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Warm Weather Hints — A
Dutch Treat Outing — The Ship that Comes in — Dandelion Wine
To Preserve the Heart of Watermelon — The Best Utility ... 48

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 52

THE SILVER LINING 62

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

ADVERTISEMENTS

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for sherbets, water ices, milk shakes, etc.

A Flavor which is adaptable for any use.

A 35c bottle makes 35 glasses of punch. For sale by all
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AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR JUNE— JULY

Adapting the Diet to the Times

Berrying ..••••

Community Kitchen, The — Promise or Menace

Editorials ..•••••

Food Hints for June-July

Home Ideas and Economies ....

Katherine Helps her Aunt Ellen

Lessons in Foods and Cookery, with Simple Appliances

Cooking ..•••••
Lilies of the Holy Land, The .
Mayor of Nancy and How He Fed His City, The

Menus

— ■ Foods Ready without

41,

PAGE
23
11

22
30
43
48
46

26
21
17

42,43

SEASONABLE- AND -TESTED RECIPES

Biscuit, Baking Powder
Biscuit, Oatmeal
Bread, Boston Brown

111

Cake, Igleheart's Lemon Queen.
Cake, Ribbon
Cakes, Cocoanut. 111.
Chocolate, Malted Milk .
Custard Renversee, Caramel .
Dressing, Russian . . ■

Ducks, Bombay, Fricassee or Curry
Forcemeat, Calf's Liver . .

Frosting for Igleheart's Lemon Queen
Hors D'Oeuvres, Italian Style .
Lamb, Shoulder of, Saute
Lettuce, Chinese, Russian Dressing
Meringues, Cocoanut. 111.

Cak

111

36 Peas Cooked in a Jar

36 Pie, A Fluffy Lemon

36 Potato Border with Vegetables and Broiled

40 Beef. 111.

40 Potato Puree ...

39 Rice, Crown of, with Creamed Chicken

40 Salad, Pekin ....

39 Sardines as a Hors D'Oeuvre .
38 Sauce, Brown
34 Spinach or Chard with Broiled Lamb Chops

33 HI. . . •

40 Sponge, Apricot

33 Terrapin, Mock .

34 Timbale, Rice with Strawberries
38 Trifle, Coffee and Tapioca
39

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Bread, Baking Powder and Yeast Compared

Cake, Cocoanut

Cockroaches, Exterminating

Coffee, Service of

Creamed Dishes, Rice Border for

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad

54 Duck, Bombay

56 Exhibition, A Food Saving

54 Fat, Test for Frying

56 Plates, Use of Bread and Butter

54 Salad, Service of

54 Soup at Formal Luncheon

37
38

35
37
35
38
33
35

34
40
35
37

54
52
52
56
56
56

We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today.

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods

Do not accept substitutes
4

ADVERTISEMENTS

une

— the month of small
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and there is just one book to give the help you need — Mrs.
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Canning and Preserving

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Mrs. Rorer's
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With this book and a freezer you can
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Cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents

New Salads

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Mrs. Rorer's
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Twelve hundred recipes, all cooked
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Here's the way to make Cream and
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Cloth, 50 cents ; by mail, 55 cents

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AMERICAN COOKERY

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A Little Guidebook for
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Homemakers'
Questions and Answers

Edited by Henrietta C. Peabody
$1.00 postpaid

THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY PRESS

DEPT. C & S M. BOSTON

Principles of Chemistry Applied to the Household

AN ELEMENTARY TEXT BOOK
By HANNAH TERESA ROWLEY, A.B., The Winsor School, Boston, Mass.,
and HELEN W. FARRELL, A.B., Bradford Academy, Haverhill, Mass.
Cloth, 296 pages, 98 Illustrations, 55 Experiments, $1.25 net, postpaid $1.40

This book contains a simple introduction to the principles that underlie the study of chemistry and an application of these
principles to an elementary study of the chemistry of foods and cleaning.

The authors are teachers of experience. Its preparation has extended through two years, and the work has been tested
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The first twelve chapters will be found an excellent introduction in any college preparatory course, while the entire book
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A Guide to Laundry Work

Principles of Food Preparation

MARY D.CHAMBERS, B.S., A.M.

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents.

This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry work. The description of every
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By MARY D. CHAMBERS,
B.S., A.M.

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system Valuable appendices. A
series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 100 calorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables
for cooking. Detaded list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students.

By MARY CHANDLER JONES

Teacher of Cooking in the Public Schools
of Brookline, Mass.
Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15

This book is designed for the use of teachers in the elementary schools, and also for use as a text book in such schools
when a text book on cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty-seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full and
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Send for Descriptive Circulars

THE BOSTON COOKING -SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY, Boston, Mass.

Lessons in Elementary Cooking

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ADVERTISEMENTS

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A Handbook for Young Wives
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FOR many years the acknowledged leader
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Kitchenette Cookery

By Anna Merritt East

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ADVERTISEMENTS

Keeps ^ T

,,cl,enWares

Bright

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Clean

For sanitary
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Old Dutch

The Quality in-
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8 ' .

Simple Refreshments for Class Supper

Strawberries, Sugar, Cream

Little Cakes Salted Almonds

Fruit Punch

Strawberry Ice Cream

Salted Almonds

Best Macaroons

Fruit Punch

Simple Banquets for School Commencements

Strawberries

Creamed Haddock in Ramekins

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Chives

Rolls

Pineapple Sherbet

Little Cakes

Fruit Punch

Pineapple-and-Canned Peach Cocktail

Chicken or Salmon-and-LeUuce Salad

Rolls or Baking Powder Biscuit

Olives Radishes

Strawberry Ice Cream, or

Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce

Fruit Punch

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American Cook

VOL. XXIV JUNE— JULY

Berrying

ery

No. 1

By Beulah Rector

Photographs by Mr. C. E. Paixe

FROM the twigs we had broken in
the pasture Joe stripped the re-
maining shiny huckleberries. He
crunched the last seed and tossed the
sprig aside. "Whenever I taste a huckle-
berry I see the Matunuck hills, a ten-
quart pail to fill, two or three berries on
a bush here, two or three more there,
the trek down the hot Drift Road, talking
of the swim we'd have when we got
home, vowing we'd never go berrying
again ■ — and then getting back there the
next morning."

Oh, yes, the Matunuck huckleberry
hills. Joe is not the only one who holds
them in remembrance. For their fruits
I became an early riser, and tried to fill
with the same zeal my two best friends.
Heavy task! The argument was clear
enough to me. If you went berrying
before breakfast, it made the day very
much longer. Then you returned for
eleven o'clock bathing, caught the little
brothers before they could leave for the
beach, prevailed upon them to give up
their sail-boat making on the cottage
porch and stagger out with your heavy
pails, on a canvass of the housekeepers
in the small seashore community. For
these services they would be allowed the
handsome commission of one cent a
quart. To be sure, having thus engaged
in trade, you forfeited all chances of
being presented at the Court of St. James,
but then you had this berry money to
spend at Christmas, and was not the
lordly sum of four and five dollars worth
some sacrifice?

In retrospect, I can feel now the sog-

giness of the clothes as I dressed in that
pale chilly morning. I can see the breath
of fog on the mirror of the pine dresser,
and the drops of moisture held in every
mesh of the window screen, while from the
beach comes again the muffled rumble of
breakers. Once more I tiptoe down the
narrow stairs, shoes in hand; for these ex-
peditions might be done away with, should
the family consider their sleep interrupted
by this member who felt the fiscal neces-
sity of going for huckleberries before
daylight. With rare caution I make the
descent, search the cupboards and the
ice box for a hastv breakfast, and then

steal forth to pull the string on my best
friend's toe. Together we call at the
back door of the Murray Hotel, where
the buxom hotel keeper's wife hands
Betty a pail holding her morning meal.
Together we explore beneath the red-
fringed napkin, and start off up the road,
munching the corned-beef sandwiches
and the doughnuts, our gustatory joy
full. This pail, with its contents yet to
be discovered, is to Betty one of the few
charms of that morning enterprise.

At this hour of day the Drift Road was
quiet. Perhaps a slow-moving cart crept
past loaded with seaweed for fertilizing
the fields. Behind it trailed lengths of
shiny brown kelp. The gypsies in the
school yard are not yet awake. \ ou
quicken with gratitude to see the huge
dog under the red wagon, his nose
between his forepaws.

Just beyond the turn of the straight
Drift Road lie the huckleberry hills. I
repeat it — lie the huckleberry hills.

AMERICAN COOKERY

Sweet fern, lichened rocks, feathery
grasses, holding copious drenchings, and
the high outlook away to the ocean —
when the fog rises. Your shoes slosh
at every step. When you straighten up,
your back aches. You wipe your hot
face and turn it to the breeze that is
coming from the sea. Now you catch
the white of the Point Judith light, and
the weary voice of the fog horn. Later,
comes the roll of wagon wheels, and the
beat of horses' feet on the road below.
It must be all of ten o'clock. The
buckboards are going to the village after
hotel guests. We have just an hour,
then, in which to reach home and get to
the beach with the others. Welcome
signal buckboard wheels!

The white Drift Road dust settles on
your wet shoes. Pails drag at muscle-
strained arms. Lips and teeth bear
evidence of your employment. Faces
are perspiring. Most likely you will
meet friends comfortably and cleanly

DO YOU KNOW THE WAY?

riding out for the day. It would not
require Tony Weller to set forth the
beauty of an alibi.

Eight summers the Matunuck hills
made themselves known to us by their
fruits. And the berries subtracted from
their bushes added to our Christmas
pocket money.

But red buds show on the maples.
New voices are twittering in the bushes.
Central Park has turned green. The
walks are full of baby wagons and the
benches full of nurses. You must watch
sharp or a kiddy-car will run you down.
Evidently the private schools have all
disbanded these spring afternoons and
the pupils are taking outdoor exercises.

Days grow warmer and lighter. Comes
the middle of June. The high buildings
and the soft concrete walks hold in an
extraordinary amount of heat. Oh, to
exchange these closely-built miles, barren
of trees and grass, foi houseless rolling
hills, wooded and green. About this
time a friend in the Berkshires writes
she has been wild strawberrying. Some
one else wild strawberrying while you
pace this artificiality? This is the
thought that finally drives you out of it.
On your train journey into the hill coun-
try you see children stooping over in the
fields. No one needs tell you what they
are doing out there with their shiny
pails. You nudge the schoolboy who
sits beside you, bound for his grand-
mother's Vermont farm. "To-morrow
I'll be out after wild strawberries, myself,"
you confide in his ear.

One might manage April and May, or
even July, in the brain of the city, but
a wild strawberry June belongs only to
the heart of the country!

Do you know where these, the sweetest
of wild berries, thrive? Up a hill road
strewn with leaves, where oven bird calls
and red squirrel scolds, over a wall in a
mowing, shut away from the rest of the
world by pines and birches. A towhee
hops on a crumbled stone fence. From
remote woods is the trill of a thrush. A
squirrel speaks out of the abundance of

BERRYING

his irascible nature. The trees sway,
the clouds trail their shadows across the
slopes of the mountain.

Gathering wild strawberries is ex-
ceeding intimate work. Here they grow
in a wide patch, to the exclusion of other
plants, so thick that when you lean close
to them and peek under the leaves you
see a red-spotted carpet. Continued
bending is painful. Continued squatting
is impossible. You select a less fruited
section and kneel. Then, preferring
stains to stiff joints, you sit. Basket
full, vou cover the delicious sweetness
with ferns and, then, there at the foot
of the hill is the brook in which to dip
your arms to the elbow and lave your
hot face.

Berries are as individual as people in
their dwelling places. How the rasp-
berry delights in the society of ferns and
warm stone walls, and how like ancient
memories they cling about old houses, or
even draw nourishment and flavor de-
lectable from cellar holes, the compan-
ions of mulleins and young birches and
softening hand-carved beams!

But if you wish raspberries in large
quantities, there is an isolated hill to
which I must refer you, — provided you
can endure the trip to the top through
scratchiest, untrimmed black birches,
which fly back and hit you in the eyes.

Then you strike the cleared crown of
the hill. "Worth coming just for the
view," exclaims the person of whose
pleasure at the beginning of the climb
you felt most uneasy. You expand.
Here the spirit can soar. The country
spreads away on every side: peaks of
the White and the Green Mountains,
tidy mowings, a lake or two, forests,
tiny farms, up and down, down and up,
but all a wealth of greenness and love-
liness. And when satisfied with the
distant vision, you utter a cry at the
countless red raspberries waiting, like
opportunity, right where you stand.

Across the hill top voices call. Vir-
ginia toddles over in pink rompers. She
holds out her half-pint cup. "See,"

THERE IS THE BROOK

sings the flute-like voice, "I've filled it
two times already."

"Good for you, Pink Rompers," you
call back. ".You've picked a whole
pint in three hours."

"Which had you rather do?" inquires
another little voice "Hunt birds' nests
or go swimming, jr pick raspberries in the
hot sun?"

"Oh, Boy! What a hard question?"
You adroitly turn the subject. "Say,
won't we have piles of a. : to eat next
winter. When you eat it, ycu can think
of the hill near, the sunshine and sky
where we picked the berries."

"No," Pink Rompers shakes her head
and pronounces in matter-of-fact tone,
"I shall think how we picked them in
Roxbury."

"What time do you think it is?" Boy
asks again.

"Bv the sun I should judge it must be
12.30."

AMERICAN COOKERY

Boy considers that a while. "I can
tell the time by the wind," he muses.

But that is not necessary. Just then
a hearty voice summons all the berry
pickers to the top of the hill. Boy imme-
diately forgets the birds'-nest hunting;
regardless of briers, his brown legs race
through the bushes. We make toward
the young chokecherry shrubs, where we
have hid the lunch baskets and the
boxes. We are on the top of the world.
In all the miles spread before us there is
no sight of any other human being.

"If we couldn't find the way down
the hill," says Boy, "I s'pose we'd have
to stay here all night."

"But we couldn't stay here all night,'
cries Pink Rompers, aghast, "we haven't
any brush teeth."

If you watch where the woods are

cut off, after a few seasons have passed,
you are almost sure to find wild rasp-
berries. The cutters leave piles of brush
which the vines delight to climb, — and
you after them. Before your eyes a
branch fairly drips with perfect red
berries!

You step on the pile and sink imme-
diately to your knees. With great dif-
ficulty and a lacerated stocking you lift
yourself out, seize a slender sapling for
support and plunge the other foot into
a hornet's nest. The big St. Bernard,
worn out after barking at a rabbit in
one of these same piles, is now cooling
off under a shady bush, panting vigor-
ously, his tongue rippling over white
teeth. He regards your wild and seem-
ingly unnecessary manoeuvres patiently,
as much as to say, "Oh, well, she'll have

LIKE OLD MEMORIES THE RASPBERRY CLINGS ABOUT OLD HOUSES

BERRYING

enough of it in a little more and be ready
to go home. Poor hunting here." He
remembers his own failure with the
rabbit.

The thicket is no place for contem-
plation. Here life is a struggle. Vines
and tenacious briers stand as high as
your neck. \\ ild clematis grows in
profusion over dead stumps and rotting
tree trunks. Wasps hover about the
cloying blossoms. You are stung and
would have cried out — • but you recall
there is only the dog to hear you — and
he already looks so disgusted. You are
so nervous every time a bee comes along
that you can't even look one in the
sting. The sun beats down. Mosqui-
toes make little puffs of air near your face,
and before vou can find a hand to smite,
they have bitten you. They have a
preference for the eyelids and nose. You
pick in desperate haste to finish. You
wonder where you are going to find
enough pins to hold your clothes to-
gether, so as to make a modest return
home. Nevertheless, the hollow is the

place to fill your basket; to make sure
of rows and rows of am afterward. A
feeling of toleration for its abuses sweeps
over you, when, several hours later, clean
and fresh from your swim, you settle
down on the porch and see the line of
jars showing their rich contents.

If you count results in the number of
quarts of fruit brought home, then,
clearly raspberrying is not for meditation.

Commend me rather to an old pasture
where the steeple bush is pink, and the
rocks gray, and the pungent smell of
pennyroyal teases you to find its green
if you can. And let the day be very
light, the sky very blue, the clouds that
scud across it very white and puffy.
From tussock to tussock you move about,
drawing a handsome toll from every
clean blueberry bush. Xo stooping and
straining, no tearing of clothes and dis-
torting of temper here. Under the big
sugar maple the cows placidly switch
their tails. There is a glint of quiet
pond, deep with cloud shadows. Beyond
is the mountain, steady and true. The

THE COUNTRY SPREADS AWAY ON EVERY SIDE

AMERICAN COOKERY

A GLINT OF QUIET POND, DEEP WITH CLOUD SHADOWS

Psalmist must have seen the mountain
from a blueberry pasture when he wrote,
"The mountain shall bring peace."

But let's not go after blueberries in
huge quantities. That makes it no
longer a sport, but a business. It was
that which spoiled blueberrying for
Cornelia. Uncle David had been in-
vited to visit us. When he made his
appearance he carried with him a crate,
— thirty-two quarts. Cornelia gasped.
Cornelia seized paper and pencil, and
leaning hard on the table divided thirty-
two by three. Then she regarded me
fiercely. "What, do I have to pick ten
quarts of blueberries?'1

"Oh, no, of course not," I palliated.

"You know very well I hate to pick
over three."

"Yes, I know."

" But we can't let Uncle David go off
there alone. He's our company."

And Cornelia would not stay back that
morning we started off to Derby Hill.
Purposely, I kept away from Cornelia
after we reached the hill top. But three
hours later I stumbled upon her very hot

and ruffled. She was on her eighth quart.
"What are we getting out of this?" she
demanded straightening her hat.

"Why, a day out-doors," I told her,
"and this lovely old hill with its colt-
cropped grass, and the big willows, and
the porcupine straddling one spongy
limb, and the balsams, and the cellar
hole, with its graceful willows, and the
views of the mountains — ■" and then I
did the only thing it was safe to do — fled.

Or when the sun is low and your shadow
is as was Alice's length in the court scene
and you have no particular duty till the
supper bell sounds, it is good to step out
to the near-by pasture with your pail.
In the late afternoon light, bushes, grass,
trees have taken on the beauty of plush.
From somewhere sounds a thrush's solo.
By the road below a blue-shirted farmer
drives past, his day's work done. Grandpa
Franchot is letting down the bars for the
cows.

Berries displayed in city markets are
poor, unadvantaged relatives of these
you gather yourself. They are low in the
baskets, but lower yet in vitality. In

THE MAYOR OF NANCY

comparison, the country blueberry is
clean, honest, wholesome, unpretending,
enduring till you reach your journey's
end; not wilted with fatigue, like the
aristocratic, delicate raspberry, which
cannot travel except in exclusive numbers
and easy conveyances; not unneces-
sarily wasting its life forces like the wild

strawberry; not disappointing you later
with a rusty, even seedy black coat, when
you believed it clothed in jet satin;
lending itself to many delightful uses, —
dumplings, muffins, pies, but best of all,
when the jar is opened next winter,
bringing back all the charm of the dear
old South Pasture.

The Mayor of Nancy — The Old Capital of
Lorraine — And How He Fed His City

By Blanche McManus

PERSONALITY and a Purpose:
Here is a worthy form of recon-
struction for France that is being
overlooked, but which I am in favor of —
the reconstructing of personalities of the
war period. So vast was that event that
it temporarily overwhelmed the indi-
vidual. Now we may expose the single
stitches in the pattern of the wonderful
web of resistance that bound France
solidly together before the advance of
the enemy.

The mayor of Nancy, who instigated
and inaugurated the first monument on
French soil to mark the memory of three
fallen Americans at Bethelmont, repre-
sents one of these stitches.

Monsieur Gustave Simon was mayor
of the old Lorraine capital throughout the
war. Lorraine is the recovered lost
child of France, and the adopted child
of America, since our soldiers received
their baptism of fire in this old French
province, that, in the spaceof five hundred
years, gave Jeanne d'Arc and the
American doughboy to the saving of
France and civilization.

To have been the war-time maire (the
title is prettie ■ when Frenchified) of a
city of a hundred and twenty thousand
inhabitants, which at the time was but
a dozen miles or so from the then German

frontier, shelled on fifteen occasions by
enemy long-range artillery, eighty odd
times by aeroplane attacks, and twice
by Zeppelins, carried with the honor great
and unusual responsibilities.

The chief of these responsibilities was
in the matter of food supply. Napoleon
discovered that an army fights on its
stomach. Had he been as great a cook
as he was a general, he might have gone
further and discovered the law that the
round world turns on its stomach.

The morale of the Nanceens, through
nearly five years of hell-fire, was re-
markable, and of a high degree, even
beside the stoic fortitude of neighboring
war-shattered municipalities of the fight-
ing zone. The high concert pitch of the
resistance of the civil population of this
old ducal city of Lorraine was undoubt-
edly kept thus tuned up by the intelligent
and devoted efforts of its mayor, who
sought to keep the food supply of the
city up to the same concert pitch under
abnormal conditions of transport and
production.

Nancy's mayor was one of the few in
France to foresee the high prices of food,
and its probable scarcity, away back in
the first months of the war, when actually
prices were below the normal, by reason
of the dislocation of consumers, when a

AMERICAN COOKERY

short war was still thought of. No
provision was being made, generally, for
economies, and France was still eating
from the same menu as formerly. Mon-
sieur Simon realized, however, that the
human motor is in. the stomach, and that
soon, without care, its fuel would be
wanting.

He began first to organize and inten-
sify the production of the local food
resources, drew up schedules for its
conservation, and long before the idea
had burst from its cocoon elsewhere.

Nancy is the centre for four famous
French industries de luxe — pastries, or
gateaux charcuterie, or pork products;
macaroons, and hand-embroideries and
lingerie. Pork is a de luxe product, as the
French prepare and market it, and
Lorraine is the district where preserved
pig appears best in its super-forms. The
French eat little pork, except jambon
in its simple dress, or with a sauce
madere, but they adore (I use their own
word) the many branches of the gene-
alogical tree of cochon as they originate,
and fabricate them under the generic
term of charcuterie. So much in vogue

is it that it has its own shops, apart from
the beef and veal butchers and general
markets, all over France.

I can list but a few of these delicacies,
as found in Lorraine. There are rillettes,
sealed up in lard in little brown pots, one
of the most important; there are many
noted brands of pate de fois gras of pig
livers, done up in earthenware jars, or
in glass, but never in tins, but sometimes
in loaves with a crust around them where
intended for immediate consumption.
These rival those pates of the famous
Strassbourg goose family of sisterly
neighboring Alsace.

There are endless varieties of head
cheeses, some sprinkled throughout with
slices of savory black trouffles, others
dotted with the bright green of the
pistache nut, or again with the white
kernals of blanched almonds. All are
rated as the chief delicacies served among
the hors d'oeuvres of the luncheon menu.
Then there are the more serious and
substantial sausages, or saucisse, of all
styles, lengths and diameters, from one
to eight inches through, and intended to
be eaten, sliced, as a preliminary to a

THE DE LUXE FOOD PRODUCTS OF NANCY

THE MAYOR OF NANCY

ONE OF THE GATEWAYS THAT CLOSES THE PLACE STANISLAS, NANCY

repast, or as smaller linked sausages,
which are to be cooked and erved
hot.

The macaroons of Nancy have a
national fame, and are made of a sweet
almond paste, well browned and crinkly.
They cost, at any time, in the chic Paris
restaurants, from twenty to fifty centimes
apiece.

These few examples serve as a key to
indicate that the Nanceens eat well, and
their paternal Maire was determined
that they should continue to do so.

With an eye to the future, after inten-
sifying home production, he went farther
afield and established, himself, preserving
and canning factories in various parts of
France, remote from the tentacles of war
needs, selecting those regions wThere the
raw material was most bountiful. These
establishments were principally for the
conserving and packing of meat products
that especially appealed to the tastes of
his people.

Yes, he became a war profiteer, but it
must not be forgot that as every question
has two sides, so has every word two

meanings, a good and a bad one. In this
case, the word " profiteer " carries the
good meaning, for when the high prices
began to rise still higher in the second
year of the war, the far-sighted mayor,
having thus forestalled the coming need,
was, by the means he had adopted, able
to furnish his home population with
certain fundamentals, and at much
cheaper prices than would otherwise have
been possible, even had the goods other-
wise been available in the desired quan-
tities.

Then later, when the real tug of the
food problem had to be grappled with,
the mayor, forearmed by his just esti-
mates of the situation, was ready with
his plans all made. The war belt about
the devoted city of Lorraine was drawn
close; the allied armies were fighting
about its gates, firmly entrenched on the
historic Grande Couronne and on the
banks of the Moselle.

Transportation and supplies were
needed for the armies; civilians had to
take second place. Local supplies were
approaching exhaustion, and food must

20 AMERICAN COOKERY

come from outside the community, a rare not even when the Kaiser, in all his

thing in French domestic economy. tawdry glory of ermine and gold eagles

Nancy is well in the northeast of sat on his white horse, surrounded by

France, three hundred kilometres from ten thousand of his choicest Prussian

Paris, a thousand kilometres from the Guards on the heights above the city,

nearest seaport. A cordon of steel was covetously awaiting the signal to make

around it; the enemy on one side, the his triumphant entry into the Ducal

allied forces on the other, its only con- capital of Lorraine. He never entered,

necting link of railway held by the French but the food did.

for its army needs. Most of the popu- The people reported to the mayor,

lation had decided, heroically, to stay personally, as to their needs and deficits,

by their city to the last, thus, propor- He visited them in their shops, ware-

tionately, there were far more mouths to houses and factories, bringing encourage-

feed here than in most of the war-zone ment to workers in half-shattered facto-

cities. ries, and to the embroideresses heroically

This was the last black year and a working in dark cellars practically under

half of the war, when the bulk of the continual bombardment, the school chil-

most necessary foodstuffs had to be dren at their lessons, masks on their

brought from abroad, principally from heads, punctuating their devoirs with

America. The mayor of Nancy was, the sound of exploding shells. He kept

as usual, among the first of his colleagues ever in touch with his people in a manner

to make use of these foreign supplies, but peculiarly French, for the mayor of a

he supplemented them with another of French city is always a patriarch rather

his own bright ideas. than a politician, a fact which has done

Marseilles, on the Mediterranean, was much to save France during her struggle,

at that time coming to be one of the So Nancy's courageous mayor brought

principal ports of entry for supplies from the capital of Jeanne d'Arc's country,

abroad. With each consignment, appor- and the "American Sector", through the

tioned to his city, he arranged to have a war shadow with a better-fed population

responsible agent, and often went him- than any other of the cities of the front,

self, personally, to conduct the food stuffs one might almost say municipally plump

in convoy from the ships and docks, and rosey, with a high morale and a

through the customs and over a thousand wonderful record for endurance and

kilometres of changing lines of railway, fortitude, even among those cities of the

from salt water to his inland capital and war zone that were also undergoing their

its warehouses, which he was at all times martyrdom for the good of the world,

able to keep well stocked. This was at This was due to the foresight of its

a time when all the road-and-rail trans- mayor, who is a good business man, but

portation was tied up in all manner of who might be described even more

political and military knots, and his appropriately as a "good provider."

attitude was unique in this decidedly The capital of Lorraine of the Dukes

civilian service. is now as nearly in clover as any of the

The result was that there were no French cities, and its mayor is now
delays en route, no side-tracking in enjoying his peace furlough and well-
freight yards for weary, hungry months, earned rest in his villa on the Riviera, at
as was so often the case, no salvaging the small, but charming and altogether
along the way, as was also happening chic resort of Valescure, a suburb of
so frequently in other cases where the Saint Raphael on the Mediterranean; a
vital matter of food was involved. place which, if. you care to know any-

In this way there was never any dreary thing more about, you may by asking

waiting in food lines in the city of Nancy, any of the boys of the "Yankee Division,"

THE LILIES OF THE HOLY LAND

especially, and hear them pass out its
praises, as a result of so many having
passed that way after the signing of the
armistice.

It is a big, commodious house, this of
the mayor of Nancy, camped on the
maquis of the Esterel Mountains, over-
looking the Mediterranean, shaded by
parasol pines, with a red-tiled rooftree
and a surrounding garden of palms and
orange and olives, the sea glinting, off
in the distance like sapphires minted with
turquois and sprinkled with gold dust.

All lovers of good food, and who is
not, will like, I am sure, to have given
them here the menu of a dinner which
was recently served in this Riviera villa,
which rejoices in the historic name of
Sainte Baume, on the occasion which
celebrated the maire of Nancy's return
to his southern rest house on the "Coast
of Blue."

Hots d'Oeutres: Including naturally those deli-
cacies of Lorraine, pates and -pate de fois
gras, as well as the black and green olives
of the Riviera country round about.

Fish: — Loup, the principal fish of the Mediter-
ranean, fully three feet in length, garnished
with small red langoustes (a sort of femin-
ized lobster) and rosy ecrivisses (which we
should ticket as shrimp), posed on squares
of oven-browned toast and served with a
sauce blanche made up with tender, golden
hued mussels, or moules.

Entree: — Filet de Boeuf (which can only be
described as roast tenderloin, owing to the
fact that the French cuts of meat are en-

tirely different from those of our own
cuisine). This garnished with various boiled
vegetables, known to the French as the
dure varieties, such as carrots, turnips,
parsnips, etc., cut into small geometrical
patterns and further supported by green
peas of no violent hue, but au naturel, and
potatos, nicely rounded to the size of small
marbles. I always find the handling of
vegetables by the French chef both inter-
esting and amusing.

Roast: — Chicken, stuffed with a mince, a fine
ham and bread stuffing, highly seasoned
and accompanied by an escarol salad, with
the usual native French dressing, which is
never anything but the virgin oil of Pro-
vence, wine vinegar, a dash of garlic and
pepper and salt, the whole, particularly the
heart of the young garlic, giving the gout
so beloved by all gourmets.

Dessert: — Here was the piece de resistance, a
gateau made from an ancient receipt of
Lorraine. It might be styled a pudding,
or yet again even a cake, or even a pie
would not be inappropriate. Composed of
thin leaves of pastry, called in France a
"thousand leaves," stacked up in flaky
sequence with interlinings of sweet fillings,
reminiscent of a cheese cake. Over the
whole was poured thick whipped cream.
Cream of itself is a great delicacy in the
French cuisine. There were also the famous
macaroons of Nancy, in all their tooth-
someness, to show that they, too, had sur-
vived the rigors of war in triumph, thanks
to Monsieur le Maire.

As an accompaniment there were, of course,
the famous wines of France, beginning with
the vin gris of Lorraine, through solid
Burgundy to a bottle of the gold-capped
famous vintage of Champagne. This last,
in which to drink the Mayor's health.

We must admit that the evidence all
goes to prove that the mayor of Nancy
was a good provider.

The Lilies of the Holy Land

Sturdy and straight in rank,

Stood the full-eared corn;
The Master passed that way,

Faint with hunger, and worn.
While His weary friends sought shade

From the noon-tide's sultry heat,
He took of the ripened grain;

Blessing it, bade them eat.

In the untilled meadow near*

The gentle lilies grew;
Tauntingly asked the corn:

"What use to Him are you?"
It was a cruel thrust;

Each lily, flushing red,
Swaying upon her stalk,

Hung low her grieving head.

The Poet Christ arose,

And suddenly espied
The trembling scarlet cloud.

"Behold! Behold!" He cried.
"Our mightiest, richest Prince

Could not such glory win
As clothes these wayside flowers,

Which toil not, neither spin!"

His fingers, light, caressed

The drooping clusters there.
"Lift up, lift up your heads,

Ye lilies, blooming fair!
Each, in his separate field,

Honors the Master best.
The corn has given Me strength;

Your beauty gives Me rest."

— Edgyth Babbitt.

The Community Kitchen — Promise or Menace?

By Percival B. Walmsley

COMMUNITY kitchens have been
discussed lately in Canada, and
the Canadian Women's Business
Club of Toronto brought up the subject,
definitely, in a debate on the question,
whether these new arrangements would
be beneficial to Toronto.

It is interesting to notice the argu-
ments, as set forth in a report of the
debate. One lady, who spoke in support,
explained that the community kitchen
would not be a restaurant nor a deli-
catessen store. It would be a scientific
institution that would bring to the poor
man the expert dietitian, such as the
rich man could afford. It was claimed
that the scheme would save two-thirds
of the kitchen labor in the home, and a
sharp contrast was drawn between the
old regime, where the tired husband came
home to the tired wife and an overpower-
ing smell of boiled cabbage, and the new
way, by which every member of the
family could enjoy the dinner from the
community kitchen all ready to serve.

Another speaker, on the same side,
estimated six hours as the time taken up
each day in preparing and clearing away
the three meals, and pointed out that
such a waste of time was not in a line
with the policy of conservation and
efficiency. This orator" argued that the
idea that a mother and a cook were
synonymous terms was a relic of bar-
barism. The mother is infinitely greater
than the cook, and she can be an in-
finitely better mother, if she is not a cook.
Furthermore, there would probably be
more marriages, if there were community
kitchens.

The advocates of the community
kitchens, however, did not have it all
their own way, though some peculiar
arguments were advanced against the
scheme. The idea seemed to be that
the preparation of the meals was a sort

of home industry, which ought not to
be taken away from women. If one
might say it without irreverence, they
seemed to reverse the lesson of Martha
and Mary. They would keep Martha
cumbered about with much serving, and
maintain that she and not Mary had
chosen the better part. But, of course,
the debating ladies did not put it so
crudely. Instead emphasis was laid
on the satisfaction every woman should
feel who takes a lively interest in her
own housework, including the prepara-
tion of the meals. If this interest were
taken away, most women would become
"drones." A curious argument, but
one that paid a great compliment to mere
man's culinary powers, was that as nearly
all the good cooks have been men, — and
this would probably be the cise, if the
community kitchens were established, —
the result would be that the men who are
at present responsible for the high cost
of food-stuffs, would have the whole
situation in their hands, from start to
finish — a sort of man-monopoly. The
same speaker tried to scare the audience
by suggesting the danger of the dishes
and containers carrying germs, though
whether this would arise from the care-
lessness of the clever men-cooks, or
whether they were to be introduced
between the community kitchen and the
home, was not stated. As a clincher, it
was declared that it was "Prussian" to
want to commercialize the kitchens, and
that, if this were done, all the "poetry"
would be taken out of that phase of
housework.

The concluding speaker on the negative
side took a high line. She dwelt on the
value of home life, and its effect upon
national life, asserting that the home was
what gave 'stability to the nation, and
that it was the husband and wife, working
side by side, that gave stability to the

ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES

home. It was a sort of extension of the
phrase "where wealth accumulates and
men decay," to "where ease accumulates
and women decay;" and, of course, the
same evil consequences were to be looked
for. In fact, though it seems a terrible
thing to have to relate, this speaker
pointed to the United States as a "hor-
rible example" of the deterioration of the
home life, due to women not doing their
part in the home, and demanding too
much freedom.

The lady judges of the debate, not-
withstanding all these appeals to the
emotions, decided in favor of the affir-
mative, that community kitchens would
be beneficial to Toronto, which naturally
implies they would be useful in other
cities. Unfortunately there is no refer-
ence to any summing-up of the arguments,
and, perhaps, they did not give out any
particular reasons.

It may not, therefore, be out of place,
if I set forth my own ideas. Because a
good thing may be abused by the few is
not a sufficient reason for withholding
it from the many. Jeremy Bentham's
maxim, the greatest good for the greatest
number, should hold good here. Further-
more, it is not compulsory. The wife
who delights in cookery in her own home
will not be ousted from her place by the
cooking range. Again, it does not take
the wife or family out of the home. It
may rather tend to keep those there who
might otherwise give «up the home for
hotel or boarding-house life, through
inability to cope with the increasing
difficulties of housekeeping. Let the

woman with no children, or few children,
go on as before, if she desires, but let
her not stand in the way of relief to her
over-burdened sister.

The community kitchen would be a
great boon to the wife who is not strong,
or in cases of illness in the family, espe-
cially when it is the mother who is ill,
and in the period of maternity, when the
mother may be away from the home.

Again, it would be a great convenience,
if friends came to stay for a while. Extra
cooking for guests is the barrier to many
pleasant interchanges of visits. But,
above all, it would be an immense relief
to the mother with several children. She
would be better able to care for the house,
the children and her husband, with this
load taken off her shoulders. She could
tackle the pile of stockings in daylight
instead of taking them up wearily at the
end of a hard day. Other mending of
clothes would also be done, and sometimes
the making of garments for the children.
The woman who was clever with needle
and sewing machine would soon make
very profitable use of the time and energy
saved from cooking. Another very im-
portant consideration is the cost of fuel
for cooking. The individual stove must
use up more fuel per pound of food cooked
than when the cooking is conducted on a
large scale. With the present shortage
and high wages of domestic help, most
women are agreed that some very radical
change is necessary to cope with the
situation, and, in this extremity, the
deus ex machina may be the community
kitchen.

Adapting the Diet to the Times

By Kurt Heppe

WITH the increasing scarcity of the best part of her time bending over the
domestic labor, the question of cook stove, and yet, this is the very con-
drudgery in the household is dition we appear to be approaching,
becoming acute. How to keep the house attractive, the
No woman of refinement cares to pass table supplied with appetizing viands, and

AMERICAN COOKERY

the members of the household in perfect
health, has been a problem since Adam;
and yet in summer the consummation of
this task is not impossible.

In order to achieve the desired result,
the family must be gradually (very
gradually) weaned from some of the hot
dishes, and these should be replaced, as
the summer advances, by unfired food.

This procedure is not only in confor-
mity with the laws of hygiene and diete-
tics, but the results will be found to be
manifold and surprising.

It has long been the aim of eminent
practicing dietitians to induce housewifes
to compose their menus in such a way that
vegetables, fruits and cereals preponderate
over meat rations.

And reference to these aims has never
been as timely as just now.

In order to arrive at the desired results,
we should take nature for our guide, and
use, in our summer dishes, the various
products that nature supplies us with;
and we should prepare these products in
as natural a manner as possible.

In the process of cooking a great many
of the mineral salts and vitamines are
lost, particularly if the cooking be done
according to the precepts of the conven-
tional French kitchen; this accepted
standard, also, has the disadvantage of
removing from our food those elements
that provide a healthful peristalsis and
furnish matter for our teeth to exercise
upon.

If we once admit these defects, then
we must arrive at the conclusion that
natural foods, in their natural state, or
in as near a natural state as possible,
must be most wholesome.

Opposed to this conclusion, on the
other hand, are the findings of many
doctors, that delicate persons can not
stand the violent action of some foods in
their natural state.

This admission, however, is simply an
indication that we have drifted away from
a natural mode of living, and have become
so effeminate that we can no longer
suffer the action of foods which in the

beginning furnished the material in
accordance with which our bodies de-
veloped their present form.

It must be evident to the thinking
person that the human organs adapted
themselves to the matter which was
available to them for nourishment.

According to the law of least resistance,
which undoubtedly governs the growth
and development of all living beings, our
digestive organs took on their present
shape only after having developed from
inferior and less adaptable conditions.

Through the facilities offered by civili-
zation, and through a misguided dietetic
expansion, the lines of least resistance
became non-resistant, and humanity slid
into the slough of food-confusion, from
which today all humanity is suffering.

This fact, however, is not widely
recognized.

If any French chef, or any leading
society lady, should be questioned upon
the subject, her opinion undoubtedly
would be that the only improvement .
in our cookery needed is novelty, and
still greater complication.

And yet, the complication already
existent is exactly what furnishes the
living conditions of our dietetical doctors
and institutions.

According to the frank admission of
such eminent specialists as Dr. Lorrand
Scholtz and many others, their practice
would dwindle and disappear, if the
general public would adopt the few
rational advices they have been offering.

However, all these specialists are not
in the least afraid of losing their liveli-
hood, because they have found that the
average human will change his habits
only when his well-being becomes seri-
ously endangered.

But the essence of the teachings of
these doctors, and the means by which
they would gently guide their patients
back to a rational diet, is: To live simply,
to eat frugally, to exercise in the open
air, and to sleep restfully.

The latter point again is entirely
dependent upon the kind of food the

ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES

patient consumes. If he lives simply,
his body will have a chance to devote
some of its strength to the work of
elimination, instead of devoting all of
its power to the task of digestion.

It must be remembered that foods that
keep the organs of the body busy for
hours, tire these organs the same as
muscular work would; and where the
organs are tired a great amount of sleep
will be necessary to let them recuperate.

It becomes, therefore, imperative to
avoid overexertion of the digestive tract,
if we would give our bodies a chance to
do reorganization work. And this over-
exertion can only be avoided by eating
foods that are easily digested, and fur-
nish thorough peristalsis, and which
induce us to chew and masticate assidu-
ously, and in this manner insalivate and
prepare the food for digestion.

Another point to be considered, partic-
ularly in the summer, is, that food should
be adapted to the season.

During the hot weather, therefore, the
menu should be so composed as to fur-
nish few heat elements, and the tem-
perature of the food, itself, greatly
contributes to the temperature of the
body.

Therefore, we should endeavor to
induce the members of our households to
compose their menus for breakfast of
milk, or fruit juice, fresh, stewed, cold,
or soaked, dehydrated fruit, cold breads,
butter and, perhaps, a cold cereal with
cream and sugar.

Such a breakfast will be found to leave
the consumer cool, refreshed, in good
form for exercise, and will permit him to
return to the table at luncheon with an
appetite that augurs good health and a
sunny disposition.

The housewife, on the other hand, will
avoid the task of cooking, and save

herself a great deal of dishwashing;
should she be in the happy position of
being able to afford a servant, then she
can employ this assistant for other work.

If she has to do her work herself, she
will find that her dishes need but very
little cleaning, and that this cleaning can
be done without alkali-soap, and in this
way she will preserve the texture of her
hands.

For luncheon, cold salads, such as
tomato salad, fruit or vegetable salad,
all thoroughly mixed and dressed with a
good dressing, and served with corn, rye,
or whole-wheat bread and plenty of
butter; a glass of milk with an egg
whipped into it and a pinch of sugar, or,
for a change, a fish salad, or a cold cut,
with iced chocolate, and fresh or stewed
cold fruit, will be found to be deli-
cious.

This system of setting the table will
make it possible for the lady of the house
to prepare those foods which must be
cooked in quantities, and keep the re-
maining part in the refrigerator, where
they will keep fresh until they are again
used. Should they threaten to sour,
then all that is required is to reheat them
and cool them again. In this way rice
can be kept indefinitely, and what is
better for a« summer dinner than a cold
cup of broth, bread and butter, cold rice
with cream and sugar, head-cheese,
green salad, fruits, nuts and cold tea?

The menu can be changed daily, and
a constant stream of surprises can be
supplied.

The housewife will soon notice that the
members of her household will look better,
feel better, sleep better and develop a
sweeter disposition, and she, herself, will
find time to devote to more agreeable and
more congenial tasks than cooking and
dishwashing.

Lessons in Foods and Cookery,
with Simple Appliances

Foods Ready Without Cooking

By Anna Barrows

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University

DURING the cold weather many
teachers in rural schools have
combined an excellent lesson
about foods with a hot luncheon cooked
over the school-room heater. Even where
that is not feasible some useful lessons,
without any actual cookery, may be given
in connection with the summer festivals.

Though the school may have closed
before the celebration of July 4, such a
lesson as is suggested here might be
given in advance to aid pupils in choosing
their refreshments outside of home more
intelligently.

The circus, with its attendant stands,
or the county fair, or the itinerant ice
cream vender of the city streets, all have
a part in shaping the food habits of
children.

Why should we wait for a formal course
in cookery and food values until the food
habits of pupils are formed? Is it not
more reasonable to set them thinking of
the cost of living, from the time they have
a penny to spend for whatever they may
choose ?

At least, we may teach them something
of the relative values of foods without
reference to " calories. " Yet many chil-
dren grasp the idea of the "unit of meas-
urement" quicker than their mothers.
This, perhaps, is because they are just
learning other measures — the quart and
peck, the yard and rod.

During the war period, one boy in a
city school came home to his dinner, and
afterwards asked his surprised mother,
"How many of them calories did I get."

In these days of costly foods, the
teachers may help the homes by showing
the children what foods give us most for
our money, and teaching them that we

may learn to eat what is best for our
health and strength.

Thus far in this series we have been
studying foods that are staples, now we
may consider some that many people
think they eat merely for enjoyment.
Some mothers look upon desserts as
extras, designed to please and not to
nourish. But a custard pudding or pie
usually will supply double the energy
producing material that would be gained
from an average soup or stew.

There are a few articles likely to be
available at every celebration or summer
festival. Supposewe consider three items,
which are representative types. These
may be taken up in school together, or
one at a time. Even little children in
primary grades may be led to see that
some foods will "stay by" longer than
others. The old illustration of the stove
or engine may help us here. The differ-
ent values of paper, wood, and coal in
keeping the house warm, may serve to
impress the fact that, in some cases,
chocolate or peanuts would be more sus-
taining foods than oranges.

Let us imagine that somebody came
and asked us to go to the circus and
mother had no time to put up a luncheon
for us, but gave us money to buy what
we chose from what was to be found on
the stands around the grounds.

Perhaps the dealers had sold most of
their supplies before we came, and all
that was left for us to buy were water-
melon, bananas, and peanuts. Which
would you choose? How much would
you want to take the place of a sandwich,
such as mother would have given you ?

Suppose it was a very hot day, would
that make any difference in your choice?

FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING

Along these lines there is a chance for
the trained teacher, even though she
knows little of cookery, to arouse dis-
cussion, which will show her how foods
are administered in the homes of the
individual children, and this may throw
light on their conduct in school. For
purposes of illustration, canned tomatoes
would serve as well as the watermelon,
since both are over 90 per cent water, but
these may be used at any season.

The watermelon is a favorite with most
children, and affords an opportunity for
a little lesson in geography and commerce.
Do they grow in your garden? Why
not? What does a whole watermelon
cost? Can we eat it all? What is the
cost, then, of the part we do eat?

Why does it cost so much? What
would it cost if it grew in this town? In
this way pupils may be led to see that
transportation costs for food as it does
for themselves. That the true cost of
any food must take account of freight,
of refuse or by-products, and of the labor
involved in producing the finished pro-
duct; that perishable foods will always
cost more, because some allowance must
be made the dealer for the risk of loss.

These facts must be given in different
words to children of the different grades,
of course, but the underlying thought of
comparison of values may be implanted
early in connection with foods, when the
wearing quality of clothing would have
no interest.

In some localities it may be possible,
by shares of one or two cents a pupil,
to buy a whole watermelon, and study it
from various sides; color contrast of the
green, white and pink, relative propor-
tion of each, weight and number of
reasonable portions, etc.

Some mother, near-by, may be willing
to lend scales, and thus a more effective
lesson can be given in weights, in general,
than by the blackboard alone, aside from
the interest in the melon.

In the study of any article of food
children should be encouraged to tell all
they know, partly for self-expression,

and that they may see how little and,
often, how inaccurate their knowledge
really is. Then they should be sent to
the dictionary, encyclopedia, or to any
one in the vicinity who is acquainted with
the subject.

Since the North cannot compete with
the South in raising watermelons, the
subject would naturally be handled in a
totally different way in the two sections.

Texas is one of the leading states in
the production of this fruit, and its annual
yield would provide its inhabitants with
several melons apiece. Georgia and all
the states across to Kansas find profit
in this crop. Yet the distance to markets
is so great.that producers only get some-
where about five cents apiece for melons
that cost fifty cents or more at a fruit
store in the North.

Some farmers devote most of their
watermelon crop to producing seeds, as
thus they earn more than from the sale
of melons, for a single melon may yield
seeds worth ten to twenty cents.

The United States Department of
Agriculture has made careful experiments,
which show that it is possible to make a
delicious table syrup from surplus water-
melons. There is only about 7 per cent
of sugar in the melon, but it is easily
pressed out.

Ten melons, weighing twenty-five
pounds each, will yield about the thirteen
gallons of juice necessary to make one
gallon of the syrup.

If the watermelon is only 7 per cent
sugar, that means there is one teaspoon-
ful of sugar to about fourteen of water
(and fiber), or that it would take fourteen
to fifteen pounds of watermelon to yield a
pound of sugar.

Compare cost of sugar and the cost of
the melon. Would it pay us here to buy
melons to make into syrup or sugar?
Where children are familiar with the
making of maple syrup and sugar, useful
comparisons may be made. Let older
children work out relative costs, including
time and labor, of the cane sugar or
molasses, and maple, etc.

AMERICAN COOKERY

It would not be profitable, therefore,
to pay such prices as we must pay for
foods that come a long distance and use
them in ways that might be right where
they were abundant.

Since we have paid a high price for
this melon, can we do anything with the
rind and seeds, which are too tough for
our stomachs?

Some one may suggest the sweet pickle
or preserve, made from the melon rind,
and the children might start it after the
sweet centre has been served, and co-
operate with some mother in its com-
pletion. The pink portion may be scooped
out in cone-shaped portions with a
tablespoon, (these are pretty, to serve,)
and leave the rind whole, ready to cut
in fancy shapes, if desired. Or some of
the older girls might carry on the whole
process, keep account of added expense
for spice and sugar, actual labor, and sell
the finished product at market prices.
Thus the importance of the use of by-
products could be taught.

Is there any use for the seeds? Would
any animal eat them? What does that
indicate regarding the digestive capacity
of such creatures, compared with our-
selves ?

Has any one here ever seen a necklace
made by stringing seeds of other plants?
Some one may have had one sent from the
tropical countries. The seeds of the
musk melon, not so hard, have been used
to ornament various articles.

Often the teacher, who is not familiar
with the customs and crops of her district,
will do better to let such a lesson shape
itself by allowing the children to tell what
they know and to ask questions, than by
following a formal lesson plan.

The watermelon has been taken be-
cause it is a subject of interest to most
children. The fact that it is imported,
instead of raised in the neighborhood,
lends it a special interest that the potato
might not have.

The point is, that history, commercial
geography, etc., may be best taught by
means of attractive foods. Moreover,

even little children may be guided in
choosing foods.

If we are very, very hungry, should we
choose sweetened water, if that were en
the table, or a good sandwich? And the
watermelon is really little more than
sweetened water in a pretty form, and
with a good flavor. Lemonade, well
sweetened, may be more nourishing than
the melon.

On the stand where we saw the melon,
there might also be some bananas and
peanuts. Would these be any better
than the watermelon to keep us from
being hungry?

If so, there must be some good reason,
— perhaps some child may think that they
are not so wet and juicy as the melon;
that the melon would take the place of
water, if there was none that was safe
to drink, and the bananas might take
the place of bread and the peanuts of
butter. Here is a chance to give some
hints about drinking water. The soldiers
have used canned tomatoes, where the
water was not safe, or hard to get.

It is not difficult to make children see
the difference in foods so far as water is
concerned. Here it may be explained
that, while the melon is more than nine-
tenths water, the banana is only three-
fourths water, about the same as the
potato, which we look upon as a "filling"
food. Do not talk in percentages to
children who have not worked with
decimals. Every child has seen a pie
or cake cut in quarters.

The peanut has about one-tenth water,
and in the form of peanut butter, much
less. The peanuts alone would make us
very thirsty, and the two would be more
like the banana in their proportion of
water.

Both the banana and peanut may be
studied in much the same way as the
melon has been outlined. •

(Mrs. Hill, the editor of this magazine,
has prepared a very useful booklet on the
banana, its growth and uses.)

The United States Department of
Agriculture has a bulletin on the peanut.

FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING

Chocolate has about the same calorie
value as peanut butter, and may be
chosen, if preferred.

With very few utensils, it is possible
to prepare a salad from bananas, rolling
sections in chopped peanuts, and serving
on lettuce with a salad dressing, which
may be bought, or brought from some
home. Or they may be sliced, and
blended with some red fruit-jelly, to eat
with cookies or wafers. Another plan
would include a few oranges and the
pulp of the orange and the sliced banana
may be put in the cups of the orange
skins.

With even as limited an outfit as a
sauce pan, measuring cup, alcohol lamp,
spoons and a mold, sliced bananas may be
molded in some of the prepared acid
gelatines.

By borrowing a freezer from some
mother, with a small assessment on each
pupil for milk and sugar, fruit, ice and
salt, a banana ice-cream may be made
without any fire. Ripe bananas will
mash and blend with the cream or milk
■during the freezing, even if not rubbed
through a strainer.

The lack of fat in the fruit may be
■shown by the fact that it does not make
.grease spots on paper, etc., with which
it comes in contact, as meat, butter and
■cheese would do. Moreover we seem
to like cream or custard or salad dressing
with it, just as we want butter or gravy
with our potato.

The potato and banana are similar in
several respects, and the latter is some-
times baked or fried like potato to eat
with meat. The calorie value of the two
is not very far apart.

The peanut apparently came to Amer-
ica from Africa, and its use was mainly
confined to the southern states, until the
Civil War extended the demand for it.
'The world war has taught us more about

its value as a source of fat, and as a
partial meat-substitute. It must not
be mistaken for a true nut, but is a
relative of the bean. Children in the
northern belt of the United States should
be given a chance to grow a few peanuts,
even if they do not mature, to see their
curious habit of forming underground.

Let young children count the peanuts
purchased for a given sum and see how
many they get for one cent, etc. Measure
peanuts before and after shelling, and
explain why the shelled nuts of all sorts
are increasingly popular. They occupy
less space in transportation; in the shops
are more convenient. What should we
do with the shells? WThere raw peanuts
can be obtained, let each child taste one,
and give reasons for cooking.

With a borrowed food-grinder, having
a special plate, some peanut butter may
be made and used alone, or with chopped
raisins or dates for sandwiches, or be
diluted with lemon juice or vinegar and
water as a dressing for banana salad.

Thin wafers or saltines may be used
for sandwiches. Or the "butter" may-
be added to fine sugar and a little water
and used as a frosting on the wafers.

Let the pupils plan a peanut dinner.
Soup is possible, like that from beans or
peas. A loaf, much like a meat-loaf, is
often made from peanuts and crumbs.
They may be used for a salad dressing
or put in it. Peanut butter may be
used for cookies, or chopped nuts may be
sprinkled over them.

Several of the preparations suggested
might be used as refreshments for a
mothers' meeting, or for a school pic-
nic.

A beginning in training community
leaders is made when children are shown
how to work together in organizing a
picnic, planning for place, transportation
and food.

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c
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Summons

In the twilight of the vale

The birds are mute,
Save where the lone thrush plays

His silver flute.

So tenderly he sings

His evening tunes.
The heart is touched with dreams

Of vanished Junes.

In the twilight of the years

Sweet voices fail,
But love sings in the heart's

Sequestered vale.

And summoned from the past,

Old dreams return,
And loved ones hasten back

Where home lights burn.

— Arthur Wallace Peach.

PROFITEERING

CERTAINLY these are abnormal
times. The prices of all things are
more than abnormal, — in case of many
things they are outrageous. After the
war is over it would seem a poor time to
advance the price of anything, even that
of labor. It indicates that there is
something rotten in Denmark, and means
trouble in the future. Now is time to
face the other way. Our present ad-

ministration is urging people everywhere
to cultivate thrift and economy. Would
they might set the example by practicing,
as well as preaching, a bit of thriftiness.
Already our churches have observed a day
to enjoin upon everybody the urgent duty
to find occupation for returning soldiers.
All this is well and good and commend-
able, but how can those who have been
pushed to the limit of expenditure and
have nothing left give to others or provide
places for them? Up to the present
time we can recall little or nothing that
has been said about the immorality and
wickedness of profiteering.

Now, right here is the sore spot, the
place to begin to reform. Why does not
our secular and religious press speak out
openly and frankly and say where real
reform should begin? The only way to
resume specie payment is to resume.
The only way every one can have occu-
pation is to cut out profiteering and
reduce prices. Every form of activity
must return to a normal basis. Could
the profiteer be required to cut his prices
to the standard of legitimate gain at
once, the long-suffering consumer would
be benefited just so much and the so-
called laborer, we are all laborers as well
as consumers, could then reduce the
price of labor and, in consequence, count-
less kinds of business, now at a standstill
on account of prohibitive prices, both of
labor and materials, could resume opera-
tion, and work for everybody would be
more plentiful.

DIETETIC COURSE HELPS TO
SOLVE SERVANT PROBLEM

WOMAN'S independenceof hermaid
is the goal of the new classes in
dietetics, which are being organized
throughout the' country by the Red Cross.
Armed with measuring cup and spatula^
flour and sugar, and all other ingredients
whose uses they learn in the class, women
are being taught freedom from cooks,
delicatessen stores, and indigestion, under
the tutelage of experts.

"I can't get a maid and my husband

EDITORIALS

has lost ten pounds while we were board- suit, that of those for evening wear a

ing, I simply must learn to cook for him,"
complained the young bride of a soldier,
who had just been mustered out of the
army, as she asked admission to the
class.

No army cook or hired chef will surpass
this soldier's wife when she has completed
the five-weeks' course of fifteen lessons.
The plans are a surety that any women
taking the courses soon will know how
to purchase and care for food, to prepare
many simple and even more "dressed up"
dishes, and to plan a menu that will have

mere beggarly #25 each. As it is im-
possible to believe that an ornament of
New York society owned threescore
"hand-me-downs," he most probably
sent to the Belgians his newest garments,
and kept only his older wear, a conclusion
connoting not only a charitable dis-
position, but a human fondness for old
clothes, a trait common to all good men,
and perhaps the most difficult of many
masculine oddities for women to under-
stand.

After all, by what standards shall we

due respect for the pocketbook and the judge the sartorial needs of masculine
palate. Flora McFlimseysr There are few sub-

Most housewives are unfortunately jects upon which men, even in the same

quite ignorant of the necessities of a
kitchen. They complain about the monot-
ony of home cooking, and of the lack of
nutrition in restaurant food. But what
really is wrong is that the spirit of cook-
ing has not been instilled into them.

The basement of the Whitelaw Reid
home in New York is fitted with cooking
tables of light brown wood, tiled sinks,

walk of life, so widely differ. How many
American statesmen are the heroes of
the story which represents a husband,
who, returning to his solicitous and
fastidious wife after a short absence, and
seeking to give an account of the linen
so carefully packed by her own hands,
proved to be wearing the seven shirts
intended to assure him a daily changer-

small iron ranges, and well-stocked pan- Those too much neglected letters of the

tries. Many women are taking the
course with an impersonal view. One
wishes to become a dietitian's aid for
farm service, and another wants to be
able to come to the fore in case of another
emergency like the influenza epidemic,

Blaine family contain a contemptuous
reference to President Arthur's mere
three dozen coats, but to the Blaines,
Chester Allan Arthur probably figured,
not as a political accident, but rather as
the usurper of a better man's rightful

which demanded the services of many place. How many coats sufficiently equip

more women than were available to
prepare food for patients. — a .r. c.

MEN AND CLOTHES

ACCORDING to the inventory of a
recent decedent's estate, a New
Yorker,. he left to posterity about three-
score suits of clothes, six of them for
evening wear. At this news one's mind
reverts to the bare Belgians, but con-
cerning the dead nothing unless good,
and, besides, the gentleman may have
sent threescore other suits to clothe the
nakedness of Albert's heroic people.
Indeed, the appraisement lends itself to
this thought, for the average valuation

a President of the United States? If
photographs may be trusted, good Mr.
Lincoln must have possessed but the
single dismal black "frock" in which he
so often appears, a garment always sadly
in need of pressing, and one that must
have caused Mrs. Lincoln many a mo-
ment of anguish. As to the traditional
American well-dressed man, the palm
must be given to a railway magnate said
to have had a pair of trousers for every
day in the year, but he died in a mad-
house.

Efforts have been made to set up
clothes as a social shibboleth. A British
aristocrat declined a challenge to a duel'

of the morning clothes was but #15 per upon the ground that the challenger was

AMERICAN COOKERY

not a gentleman, as it was known that
he did not wear three shirts a week.
Before the price of laundering became
well-nigh prohibitive, the British man of
fashion held two shirts a day to be a fair
allowance. Sir John FalstafT, on the
other hand, prayed for cool weather
when he went to war, because he carried
but three shirts in his kit, and he assures
us that in all the rest of his company there
was but a shirt and a half. The English-
man who felt that we must "cut" our
moderately remote ancestors, should they
come to life and claim acquaintance, was
probably right, for literature bristles with
evidence that our forebears, of whatever
rank, had standards as to dress, dining,
bathing, that fall far below our modern
notions of delicacy, and even of sanitation.
As usual, it is to the wisdom of the
east that we must turn for counsels of
moderation in all things, even dress.
The prayer, "Give me neither poverty
nor riches, feed me with food convenient
for me," applies to other matters besides
those with which Mr. Hoover has re-
cently concerned himself. Again, what
humor and what deep significance in the
story of the sick Sultan who was to be
cured by merely wearing the shirt of the
happy man. That fortunate person was
found after long search of the realm,

but, behold, he had no shirt!

The Boston Herald

BLESSED BE THE PLODDERS

IT is better to be a steady, reliable
plodder, than to be a brilliant, but
erratic and undependable genius. The
plodder wears better and in the end ac-
complishes more and better work. True,
it may take him longer to do it than his
brilliant brother, but the work is likely
to be well done. The genius makes a
great sensation and receives plaudits and
rewards for his occasional brilliant ex-
ploits, but unless he is well-trained and
well-balanced, he is apt to go up like a
rocket and come down like a stick.
The genius is too apt to work only by
fits and starts, or when inspired, or in

the mood, and there are long stretches
when he is idle or useless. You never
know when he will be in the mood to work.
He doesn't know himself. Waiting for
geniuses and brilliant men to get under
way is tiresome and exasperating. Then
the plodder shows his true worth. He
says little, but plugs away patiently
and steadily, and by his very persistence
and endurance he accomplishes note-
worthy results, far outpassing the me-
teoric efforts of the genius.

The plodder not infrequently develops
the best kind of genius: the genius for
hard, sustained, patient labor. He fre-
quently illustrates the advantage of being
a tortoise rather than a hare. If you
feel that you are only a plodder, and have
none of the attributes of genius, do not
despair. Do the best you can; develop
and use all of such talents as you have;
and you will be likely to go farther and
fare better than your brilliant fellow.

In the nature of things, the world needs
more plodders to keep the machinery
running, just as we need more farm horses
than we do trotters. A good work horse
is more highly esteemed, lasts longer and
is more useful than the swiftest race
horse ever bred for exhibition purposes.
If you are a plodder, aim to be the best
in your class, and your reward is sure.

a. j. s.

Will readers please notice that this,
the June-July issue, is the first number
of a new volume of American Cookery.
This is the only publication of the kind,
as far as we know, that carries a complete
annual Index and Title Page. From
every point of view American Cookery
is always worthy of Preservation and
Continuation.

Home

A tiny house; a plot of earth;

And thou, and I, ah, these make home!
Speak not of poverty nor dearth —
A tiny house, a plot of earth
Are ample cause for thanks and mirth.

For bliss we need no further roam.
A tiny house; a plot of earth;

And thou, and I, ah, these make home!
— Blanche Elizabeth Wade.

STRAWBERRIES, SUGAR AND CREAM

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Hors D'Oeuvres, Italian Style

IN a hors d'oeuvre dish of three or
four compartments, dispose in one
compartment pulled bread, in an-
other delicately sliced, smoked tongue,
and stuffed olives in a third. Small
plates should be in place on the service
plates, and the hors d'oeuvre dish with
silver utensils for the smoked tongue and
the stuffed olives. This is passed for the
first service of the meal.

Sardines as a Hors D'Oeuvre

Cut Boston brown bread in rounds;
cut out a thin round one-eighth an inch
from the edge; fill this open space with
sardine flesh, pressed through a sieve,
seasoned with lemon juice, salt, paprika
and Worcestershire sauce, mixed to-
gether. Set a slice of hard-cooked egg
at the center, and a row of capers around
the egg.

Calf's Liver Forcemeat

Rub the inner surface of a frying pan

with a clove of garlic cut in halves; cut
a pound of calf's or lamb's liver in cubes
and cook them in the pan with some
melted bacon fat and half a shallot.
Cook these, stirring often, until well
cooked, then let them cool; add a few
cubes of veal or cooked breast of chicken
and pound in a mortar, then press through
a sieve. If you can add, while pounding,
the chopped trimmings of truffles, the
flavor will be that of the imported pate.
This forcemeat may be added (not too
much, just enough to give the right
flavor) to chicken or lamb croquettes, or
to anv sort of creamed dish, or to line
a shirring dish, or china ramekin, in which
an egg may be poached.

Cream of Spinach Soup

Scald half a cup of milk, a slice of onion
and three slices of carrot in a double
boiler ten or fifteen minutes; add one-
fourth a cup or more of cooked-and-
chopped spinach and press through a
sieve. Have ready one cup and one-
half of thin white sauce, made of two

AMERICAN COOKERY

tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoon-
fuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt,
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper;
add the puree; mix while heating and
serve at once. If too thick add a little
hot milk.

Spinach or Chard with Broiled
Lamb Chops

Cook well washed (no sand) spinach
in the water that clings to it after washing.
Drain and chop, season with salt, pepper,
butter or a little cream, and stir over the
fire until very hot and quite dry; dispose
on one side of a serving dish and set
about four carefully broiled, or breaded-
and-fried, lamb chops, Frenched, on the
other side of the plate against the spinach.

small ones, cut them lengthwise into
quarters, remove the seeds and peel off
the green skin. Cut them into pieces,
two inches long and one inch thick, and
put them in a stew pan with water, half
a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoon-
ful of salt. Let simmer until nearly done,
then drain off the liquid and turn
the pieces of cucumber on a clean
dish.

Take a large, fresh cocoanut, remove
the whole of the white flesh, rasping it
into a bowl; over this pour a cup of
boiling water, leave it for fifteen minutes,
then pour off the liquid. This is the best
thing used in the curry and must be left
until the last of the cooking. Return the
raspings to the bowl and pour over them

CHARD WITH BROILED LAMB CHOPS

Shoulder of Lamb, Saute

Cut a shoulder of lamb in pieces for
serving, having them about an inch thick.
Cover with boiling water, let boil about
five minutes, then simmer till tender.
Skim the pieces from the broth, roll them
in flour, mixed with salt and pepper, and
let cook in a little hot fat, bacon or salt
pork till lightly browned on one side,
then turn to brown the other side. Make
a sauce with the broth, salt and pepper.
This makes a change from the ordinary
boiled or stewed lamb.

Fricassee or Curry of
"Bombay Ducks"

Take a good-sized cucumber or two

two cups of boiling water; stir well and
let the liquid stand half an hour, then
strain and squeeze dry.

Put one-fourth a cup of butter or
other fat into a stew pan, and when it
melts mix into it a white onion, shredded
into rings. Move the onions in the fat.
and two tablespoonfuls of flour, half a
tablespoonful of tumeric powder, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar,
a little cinnamon and clove, and when
well blended, little by little, the last
cocoanut infusion; when this is boiling,
add, by degrees, a cup of thick chicken
or fish broth, a tablespoonful of sliced
green ginger and three green chillies, cut
into Julienne-like strips. Set into a bath
of boiling water while you add the cooked

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

' li

•■.' ^

— " " '^

CROWN OF RICK WITH CRFAMFD CHICKEN

cucumber, and as many pieces of Bombay
duck as are required.

Crown of Rice with Creamed
Chicken

For a crown mold holding one pint of
material, blanch one (scant) cup of rice,
then put over the fire to cook in one
quart of liquid, chicken broth in whole
or part; add also half a teaspoonful of
salt. When done, butter the mold and
into it pack the rice; set the mold on
several folds of paper in a dish of boiling
water and let cook in the oven until the
filling of the crown is made ready.
Melt one-fourth a cup of butter, or other
shortening; in it cook one-fourth a cup
of flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt
and pepper, and a scant pint of liquid,
broth and milk, one or both; unmold
the crown on a serving dish; fill the
center with the meat and serve at once.

Potato Border with Vegetables
and Broiled Beef

Have ready boiled potatoes, mashed
and seasoned as for the table. Beat

thoroughly and press into a well-buttered
mold to fill it full. Have ready, also,
tiny beets, carrots and turnips, cut in
small balls, all cooked tender and sea-
soned generously with salt, pepper and
butter. Fill the center of the ring with
the vegetables and set small rounds of
beef tenderloin, nicely broiled, on the top
of the potato; serve with a bowlful of
brown sauce.

Brown Sauce

Melt four tablespoonfuls of fat; in it
cook half an onion and half a carrot, cut
fine; add four tablespoonfuls of flour and
half a teaspoonful, each, of pepper and
salt; stir until bubbling, then add two
cups of beef or veal broth and stir until
boiling.

Mock Terrapin

Have ready half a calf's liver (or les- .
The liver may have been broiled or
braised with vegetables. Cut the liver
into small cubes. Put three tablespoon-
fuls of light-colored, clean, bacon fat into
a frying pan; when hot add the liver.

POTATO BORDKR WITH VEGETABLES \M) RROII.Fl"> BEEF

AMERICAN COOKERY

dredged with two tablespoonfuls of flour,
half a teaspoonful of fat and one-fourth
a teaspoonful of paprika. Stir and cook
until the flour is blended with the fat;
then add one cup of stock or water and
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
Stir until boiling; add one-fourth a cup
of cream, two hard-cooked eggs, cut in
cubes, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice.
If preferred milk may be used in the
place of the broth or hot water, and two
well-beaten eggs in the place of the
cooked eggs.

pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of salt,
and five teaspoonfuls of baking powder;
cut in three or four tablespoonfuls of
shortening and use milk in mixing to a
soft dough. Turn the dough on to a
floured board, knead slightly, and cut
into rounds. Bake on a greased plate
about eighteen minutes; serve hot with
strawberries, sugar and cream.

Boston Brown Bread

Put one-half cup of corn meal, one-
half cup of rye meal, and one-half cup of

EACH OF ABOUT THE SAME FOOD VALUE

Oatmeal Biscuit

Sift together two-thirds a cup of
pastry flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking
powder, and one-fourth a teaspoonful of
salt; add twTo-thirds a cup of oatmeal and
two teaspoonfuls of shortening; mix the
shortening into the flour and oatmeal,
and add milk, a little at a time, to form
a soft dough. Pat them into shape with
a wooden spoon; set them into well-
greased individual pans or cups, and
bake in a very hot oven. Note that the
oven must be too hot to hold the hand
in it.

Baking Powder Biscuit

Sift together two cups and one-half of

whole-wheat flour with one teaspoonful
of soda, and half a teaspoonful of salt into
a bowl and sift, adding the bran in the
sieve if there be any, taking care, mean-
while, to crush and sift any soda in the
sieve. Add a scant half-cup of molasses,
one cup of buttermilk or sour milk, and
mix thoroughly. Put three-fourths of
the mixture into a brown bread mold
and set the cover in place; it need not
be pressed down tight. Put the rest of
the mixture in a small mold, it need not
be covered, and let the bread steam
constantly three hours. Fill the steamer
to the rack with cold water. Heat
quickly to the boiling point, and do not

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

let the water cease boiling for three hours.

Potato Puree

In boiling potatoes some cooks think
it improves the potatoes to add a little
cold water, now and then, to check the
boiling. They are done when a fork goes
through them easily; drain and dry in the
hot sauce pan in which they are cooked;
add butter generously, salt and a little
milk. Make the mixture a little more
moist than for the usual mashed potato.
Rub over the bottom of the sauce pan
with the cut side of a clove of garlic before
you mash the potato into it. Soup stock
may be used in place of milk. The puree
Js used as a vegetable with meat or fish,
and is thought to have a foreign taste.

Peas Cooked in a Jar

Put a pint of green peas into a fruit
jar; add a tablespoonful of butter, one-
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoon-
ful of powdered sugar, a dozen mint
leaves and one-fourth a teaspoonful of
black pepper. Close the jar secure and
immerse it in a stew pan with plenty of
boiling water; temper the jar before
adding the peas, etc. Let cook briskly
half an hour; examine and if not done
cook longer. Young peas should cook
in half an hour.

Rice Timbale with Strawberries

Put half a cup of rice and two cups of
cold water over the fire and bring quickly

BOSTON BROWN BREAD

to the boiling point. Let boil vigorously
five minutes, then .drain and rinse in cold
water. To the blanched rice add two
cups of milk and half a teaspoonful of
salt and let cook until the rice is tender,
adding more milk if the rice becomes too
dry. Add the grated rind of an orange
or a lemon or half a teaspoonful of vanilla
extract and two tablespoonfuls, each, of
butter, sugar and cream; mix thoroughly,
then fold in the white of an egg, beaten
very light. Have ready an oval char-
lotte mold or a timbale mold, thoroughly
buttered and dredged with granulated
sugar. Press the rice into the mold to
fill it evenly. Set on several folds of
paper, in a pan of hot water, into the oven
to remain ten minutes. Let stand out of
the water five minutes to settle, then turn

BAKING POWDER BISCUIT

AMERICAN COOKERY

on to a serving dish. Pour around the
rice a pint of preserved strawberries, or,
use fresh strawberries, hulled, washed
and mixed with sugar.

Coffee-and-Tapioca Trifle

Have ready two cups of hot, clear
coffee (strain through linen if necessary);
add half a cup of pearl tapioca and let
cook over boiling water, stirring occasion-
all}-, until tender. Pearl tapioca will take
at least two hours cooking. The minute
and other quick-cooking tapiocas will
cook in half an hour. When done add
half a cup of sugar and turn into glass
cups; serve with cream slightly whipped.

chill on ice. L nmold and serve on a bed
of cress, seasoned with French dressing;
serve with French or mayonnaise dressing
in a bowl. For the filling, soften a table-
spoonful of granulated gelatine in one-
fourth a cup of cold water, and dissolve
in half a cup of hot chicken broth; stir
in one cup of cooked chicken, cut in small
cubes; when cold add one cup of cream
with a few grains, each, of salt and
cayenne.

Chinese Lettuce Salad, Russian
Dressing

Cut Chinese lettuce, crisped by stand-
ing a short time in cold water, in quarters

COFFEE-AXD TAPIOCA TRIFLE

A Fluffy Lemon Pie

Mix two level tablespoonfuls of sugar
and half a teaspoonful of salt with one-
fourth a cup of cold water to pour; then
pour on three-fourths a cup of boiling
water and let cook directly over the fire,
stirring until boiling; add the juice of
one lemon, also the grated rind, if it
be not objectionable. Beat the whites
of two eggs very light, the yolks also
very light; fold the whites into the
yolks, then beat into the eggs one
cup of sugar. Beat the sugar in, one
tablespoonful at a time, so as to keep the
mixture very light; bake with two crusts.

Pekin Salad

Line an oval Charlotte mold with hot
boiled rice, and let cool. When cold fill
the center with a chicken filling and let

lengthwise, then crosswise; drain and
dry on a cloth. Set in a salad bowl and
pour over about a cup of Russian Dres-
sing. Or, serve the lettuce on individual
plates and the dressing in a bowl.

Russian Dressing

Beat half a cup of French dressing (six
tablespoonfuls of oil, two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each,
of salt and paprika) gradually with an
egg-beater into half a cup of mayonnaise
dressing, then beat in two tablespoonfuls
of chili sauce and fold in one-third a cup
of whipped cream, with fine-chopped
green or red pepper, onion juice, cucum-
ber pickle and parsley to taste.

Caramel Custard Renversee

Cook one-third a cup of sugar in a

SEASONABLE AXD TESTED RECIPES

CARAMEL CUSTARD RENVERSEE*

small sauce pan over a quick fire, stirring
rapidly until the sugar is dissolved and
turned a caramel color. Take a tin
mold, holding about three cups, and as
soon as the sugar is melted turn it into
the mold. With a towel in both hands,
tip the mold from side to side to coat the
inside with caramel. Beat four eggs
until light; add one-fourth a cup of
sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt and
beat again; add two cups of milk, mix
thoroughly and turn into the mold. Set
the dish in a pan of boiling water on a
folded cloth, and let cook without the
water boiling until the custard is firm in
the center. When cold unmold on a
serving dish.

In the illustration, the custard is
shown cooked and turned from the mold
with the syrup around it; also, the
empty mold and a part of the custard
baked in a small glass cup with a cloth

below and boiling water around it are
shown.

Cocoanut Meringues

Beat the whites of two eggs very stiff;
add slowly half a teaspoonful of sugar
and continue the beating and adding
until one-fourth a cup of sugar has been
used. Fold in one-fourth a cup of
granulated sugar, a few grains of salt,
two teaspoonfuls of rice flour, mixed
through one cup of shredded cocoanut.
Shape the mixture in rounds in a tin
lined with light brown paper (not para-
ffine), and let bake in a very slow oven
until lightly browned above and below.
For cocoanut cakes see Query Xo. 4068.

Ribbon Cake

(To Serve 65 or 70 People)
Cream one cup of butter; gradually
beat in four cups of sugar, then the

COCOANUT MERINGUES, COCO.WTT CAKJ S

AMERICAN COOKERY

beaten yolks of eight eggs, and, alter-
nately, two cups of milk and seven cups
of pastry flour, sifted with ten teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder. Lastly, beat in
the whites of eight eggs, beaten very
light. To one-third of the mixture add
one teaspoonful, each, of cinnamon,
mace and nutmeg, one pv»und of raisins,
cut up in small pieces, one cup of figs,
fine-chopped, and two tablespoonfuls of
molasses. Bake this in a pan \6\ x 12
inches; bake the white part in two pans
of the same size. Put the three layers
together with apple jelly, having the
dark layer in the center; spiead boiled
frosting over the top.

Iglehearts Lemon Queen Loaf

\ cup butter 1£ cups of Iglebea t

1 cup sugar Brothers Sw.ris-
Grating of lemon rind down flour

4 egg-yolks i teaspoonful soda

2 tablespoonfuls 4 egg-whites

lemon juice

Cream the butter; gradually beat in
the sugar, lemon rind, egg-yolks, beaten
light, lemon juice and flour, sifted with
the soda; lastly, beat in the egg-whites
and turn into a round, tubed, buttered
pan about seven inches on the bottom.
Bake about forty-five minutes. Cover
with boiled frosting, using part of it
tinted green and pink to ornament the
cake.

Frosting for Iglehearts Lemon
Queen Loaf

Put in a double boiler one egg-white,

one cup of sugar, and three tablespoon-
fuls of cold water. Set over boiling
water and let cook seven minutes, while
beating constantly with a Dover egg-
beater. When cooled a little spread a
part over the cake, then use a part tinted
leaf-green, and a part tinted pink to
finish the decoration.

One Cup Malted Milk
Chocolate

Put two teaspoonfuls of malted milk,
and two teaspoonfuls of instantaneous
chocolate into a cup and mix thor-
oughly; mix to a paste with a little cold
water, then fill the cup with boiling water,
beat well and it is ready to serve. For
some tastes a little more sugar may be
desired.

Apricot Sponge

S jften one tablespoonful of granulated
gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water
and dissolve in one cup of sifted apricot
pulp and juice made hot for the purpose;
add one-fourth a cup of sugar and stir
until dissolved, then when the mixture
begins to become firm, beat in the whites
of two eggs, beaten very light. Serve
in glass cups with cream, sweetened a
little and beaten very light, on the top
of the mixture in each cup. Prunes are
good served in the same way. Too much
gelatine should not be used. The dish
is at its best when not quite firm enough
to hold its shape

IGLEHEARTS LEMON QUEEN LOAF

Menus for One Week in June

Breakfast

Wheatena, Top Milk
Beauregard Eggs

Doughnuts
Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Veal Cutlets Cooked en Casserole

Potato Balls Browned in Fat in Oven

New French Turnips

Lettuce, French Dressing

Toasted Uneeda Biscuit

Canned Apricot Sponge, Whipped Cream

Supper

Cheese-and-Bread Pudding
Strawberries, Thin Cream
Tea
Rolled Sponge Cake

Breakfast

Hominy Cooked in Milk, Top Milk

Bacon

Small Potatoes, Baked

Bran Muffins Stewed Prunes

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Scrambled Eggs, Green Peas

Baking Powder Biscuit

Sugared Pineapple

Tea

Dinner

Chicken Broth with Rice

Salmon Loaf, Drawn Butter Sauce

Mashed Potatoes

Lemon Sponge Pie

Cheese

-
f.

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Asparagus on Toast, Melted Butter

Whole Wheat-and-Ryenieal Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Spinach, French Dressing
Cold Boiled Tongue
Parker House Rolls

Prunes Stuffed with Xuts,
Whipped Cream

Dinner

Veal (Cutlets left over) Souffle.

Tomato Sauce

New Beet Greens

Old Potatoes, Mashed

Individual Strawberrv Shortcakes

Breakfast

Oatmeal, Thin Cream

Salmon-and-mashed-Potato Cakes, Fried

Radishes

Popovers

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Stewed Lima Beans (dried)

Graham Bread and Butter

Spinach

Dinner

Fried Chicken

Turkish Pilaf

Buttered Carrots

Lettuce, French Dressing

Strawberrv Ice Cream

3
>

Breakfast

Puffed Rice, Top Milk

Creamed Dried Beef

White Hashed Potatoes

WTaffles, Amber Marmalade

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Lobster or Salmon Salad

Baking Powder Biscuit

Strawberries

Cottage Cheese

Toasted Crackers

Dinner

Boiled Salmon, Drawn Butter Sauce

Green Peas

Boiled Early Potatoes

Rye Bread and Butter

Rhubarb Pie Cheese

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Sranibled Eggs

Ryemeal-and- Wheat Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Green Pea Soup

Uneeda Biscuit

Cinnamon Toast

Amber Marmalade

Tea

Dinner

Baked Mackerel
Scalloped Potatoes
New String Bean^

Graham Bread
Pineapple Sponge

Breakfast

Puffed Rice, Top Milk

Calf's Liver and Bacon

Creamed Potatoes

Breakfast Corn Cake

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

New York Baked Beans
Beet Greens
Boston Brown Bread
Baked Indian Pudding

Dinner

Stewed Pigeons, Brown Sauce

Stewed Lima Beans (dried)

Hashed Brown Potatoes

Cabbage Salad

Rhubarb Pie

P
11

<
o

Q
en
W

H
<
en

Simple Well-Balanced Menus for One Week

in July

Tea

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat Blueberries Top Milk

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash
Coffee Baking Powder Biscuit Cocoa

Dinner

Roast Leg of Lamb (yearling 7 lbs. serve 20)
Mint Sauce, Brown Sauce
New Potatoes Baked with the Meat

French Turnips

Head Lettuce and Sliced Prunes,

French Dressing Toasted Crackers

Red Raspberry Ice Cream

Supper

Lettuce-and-Shrimp Salad

Rye Biscuit (reheated)

Graham Cracker Cake

Cream Cheese Apple Jelly

Breakfast

Wheatena, Dromedary Dates, Cream

Creamed Finnan Haddie

White Hashed Potatoes

Spider Corncake

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Egg Timbales, Tomato Sauce

String Beans

Graham Bread and Butter

Rice Boiled in Milk, Chocolate Sauce

or Sugar and Cream

Dinner

Lamb Pie, Biscuit Crust

Green Peas

Lettuce and Garden Cress,

French Dressing

Raspberry Charlotte Russe, or

Raspberries, Sponge Cake, Cream

Breakfast

Corn Puffs, Blueberries

Hashed Lamb on Toast

Radishes

Dry Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup

Raspberry or Blackberry Shortcake

Toasted Crackers

Cheese

Dinner

Broiled Sword Fish

New Potatoes, Boiled

Beets, Boiled and Buttered

Quick Yeast Rolls

Sugared Pineapple

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Berries

Mock Terrapin on Toast

Doughnuts

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Clam or Fresh Fish Chowder

Uneeda Biscuit

New Cabbage

Baking Powder Biscuit

Pineapple Sponge

Dinner

Broiled Lamb Chops

Mashed Potatoes (old)

Spinach with Sliced Eggs

Caramel Custard Cookies

Breakfast

Wheatena, Top Milk

Stewed Apricots

Flanks of Chops (cooked tender) and

Potato Hash

Broiled Bacon

Blueberry Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Squizzled Dried Beef

Creamed New Cabbage with Cheese

Spanish Cream

Dinner

Fowl, Steamed and Browned in Oven

Mashed Potatoes

Carrots, Lyonnaise Style

Pineapple Bavarian Cream

Breakfast

Puffed Wheat, Sliced Bananas

Broiled Bacon, Broiled Sliced Potatoes

Hot Cross Buns

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Macaroni with Tomato and Cheese

Lettuce, French Dressing

Graham Bread

Raspberry Jell-0

Dinner

Fresh Codfish Chowder
Pickled Beets
Summer Squash
Apple Pie, Cottage Cheese

Breakfast

Cold Jellied Wheatena,

Hot Stewed Figs
Cold Boiled Tongue,

Sliced Very Thin
White Hashed Potatoes
Bran Muffins
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Spinach Soup,

Croutons
Canned Corn Pudding

Hot Rolls

Chocolate Malted Milk

Cocoanut Meringues

Dinner

Steamed-and-Browned Fowl,
Giblet Sauce
Mashed Potatoes
New Cabbage,

Creamed with Cheese
Lettuce, Russian Salad Dressing
Peach Pudding, Delmonico

Buffet Suppers for Lodges,

Boards of Trade, etc.

Doughnuts

Coffee in Urns

Cheese

Bouillon in Urns

Coffee

T T

Potato Salad

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin

Unbuttered Rolls

Olives Pickles

Sliced Ham Sandwiches

Mayonnaise of

Chopped Chicken Sandwiches

Ice Cream Strawberries

Cheese-and-Sliced Nut Sandwiches

Cake

Coffee Cocoa

Coffee

Four Course Banquets for Lodges, Boards

of Tra

ide,

etc.

(i)

Halves of Grapefruit

(i)

Strawberry-and-Pineapple Cocktail

(2)

Turbans of Fresh Fish with Oysters

(2)

Fresh Fish Croquettes, Sauce Tartare

Hot House Cucumbers

Parker House Rolls

(3)

Planked Sirloin or Swiss Steak

Olives Salted Nuts

with Vegetables

(3)

Swiss Steak,

(4)

Fruit Cup

Brown Mushroom Sauce

Coffee

Onions and Potatoes
Romaine or Lettuce Salad

(4)

Strawberry Ice Cream

(1)

Strawberries, Powdered Sugar

(2)

Creamed Fresh Fish in Ramekins

Potato Diamonds with Peas

(3)

Broiled Lamb Chops
Macaroni (tomato, cheese)

Salpicon of Fruit in Cups

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing

Creai

(4)

Baked Alaska Ice Cream

Jellied PhiladelphiaRelish, Jellied

Coffee

Baking Powder Biscuit

Food Hints for June-July

By Janet M. Hill

DURING the summer months it is
well to plan for as many outdoor
meals as possible. Easily trans-
ported, light, wire frames, that may be
set up over a wood fire, make possible the
cooking in the open air of almost any-
thing edible. For baking a few biscuits,
a portable oven may be set on the frame,
but the principal use made of the frame
will be as a broiler for bacon, chops and
fish, boiling vegetables, roasting corn,
baking griddle-cakes and potatoes, and
toasting bread. To be sure, when going
away for a week, or even a day, a basket
of cooked food is always a welcome addi-
tion to the supplies. But even if but
one meal is to be eaten out of doors, the
pleasure of that meal is much enhanced
by preparing at least one hot dish beside
the pot of hot coffee. Brook trout,
caught in the near-by stream, rolled in
meal and cooked in a frying pan in a little
hot bacon or salt-pork fat, will, with
bread-and-butter sandwiches and hot
coffee, make a meal that puts the finish-
ing touch to a real "red letter" day.

In ready-cooked meats, boiled ham
or tongue, sliced thin, if carefully cooked,
are usually first choice; with these a
glass of jelly, jam or pickles, potatoes to
bake, and, for a sweet a few tarts, give
dishes from which an excellent meal may
be had. For simpler fare, peanut butter,
cream cheese, with or without jelly, or
chopped ham will furnish good sandwich
filling. Let part of the bread be of some

coarse variety. Plain rye bread is much
appreciated; so also is potato salad.

Early Vegetables

In June beet greens are plentiful in
some localities; in other sections of the
country we must wait for them till July.
The sugar content of tiny beets gives this
dish a rather higher nutritive value than
that of most green vegetables. The
greens may be eaten hot, or, molded in
cups with sliced, hard-cooked egg, be
eaten cold with salad dressing.

Summer squash vines are usually very
productive; enough will be left to eat,
prepared by the usual recipes, if some of
the smaller ones, three or four inches in
length, be cut in thin slices, seasoned with
salt and pepper, egged-and-crumbed, or
dipped in milk and flour and fried as
egg-plant.

French turnips, small and white, cook
quickly, and are good prepared in slices
and buttered, mashed and buttered;
creamed, or, after parboiling, also
browned in the pan in which meat is
roasting.

The asparagus season may be extended
somewhat into June, when green peas
will take the place of this well-liked
vegetable. It is not advisable to buy
peas for canning. More peas are proba-
ply spoiled in home-canning than any
other vegetable; and the work involved
is more than in the case of most other
vegetables. Peas do not take kindly to

FOOD HINTS FOR JUNE-JULY

the warming-over process as do most
vegetables; the addition of a few grains
of sugar will improve them, as will, also,
a good white sauce, or a salad dressing;
but, in general, it is best to cook no more
peas, at one time, than will suffice for the
meal.

Young carrots are plentiful in July,
and are a most satisfactory vegetable.
As usually planted, thinning the plants
is necessary; these small carrots, pulled
from the row, scraped and cut in halves,
cook in a very few minutes. Set them
over the fire with one or two tablespoon-
fuls of butter, a little salt and pepper and
a teaspoonful of sugar; shake vigorously
until the butter and seasonings are
evenly taken up by the carrots, and you
may rest assured that no pieces will re-
main in the dish, uneaten. Do not allow
any of these weeded-out carrots, half an
inch or more in diameter, to go to waste,
but can all those not needed for the table.
Blanch them in the usual manner, cook-
ing about two minutes, then pack in
sterilized jars. Set these in the canner
with covers beside them, fill with boiling
water and let cook till when tried with a
fork the carrots are ready for the table.
Adjust the rubbers, first dipped in boiling
water; fill the jars to overflow with
boiling water, put on the covers, and
adjust one wire; let cook ten minutes,
remove from fire, and fasten the last
wire.

The mid ribs of Swiss Chard may be
used in the same manner as asparagus; the
green leaves, as spinach or other greens.

Parsley, sweet basil, summer savory
and thyme are ready for use in July.
The parsley will be small and it is well
to have roots of this handsome biennial
left over from the previous season for use
in the early summer. Sweet basil, thyme
and summer savory may be used green,
but before they blossom, whatever leaves
are to be set aside for winter use should
be stripped from the stalks and dried in
the warming oven. The leaves of second-
year parsley should be treated in the
same manner.

Fruit

Strawberries, pineapples, apricots,
cherries and blueberries are now ob-
tainable in some one or other locality of
the country. Strawberry jam or Sun-
shine strawberries are valuable assets in
any store-room. To be really palatable,
canned strawberries require a bountiful
supply of sugar, and only choice fruit
should be used. Fresh-picked berries,
unsuitable for canning or eating from the
stems, of which most gardens show quite
a few, heated in a double boiler, strained
through cheese cloth and the juice
canned boiling hot in sterile jars, give
material for an easily-and-quickly made
strawberry sherbet, ice cream, bombe
glace or bowl of fruit punch.

As pineapple, for successful use in
dessert dishes with milk, eggs or gelatine,
must first be cooked, canned pineapple,
rather than the fresh, might be used.

A cherry pie might be indulged in once
or twice during the season. This pie is
made with two crusts; to avoid leakage
of juice let both crusts lie loosely on the
plate; lift the first piece of paste from
the plate after setting it in place, that it
may contract a little; it will contract
more in cooking, and it is better in trim-
ming to let it come a scant quarter of an
inch beyond the plate than just to the
edge. Do not fill the paste with cherries
until after the upper layer of paste is
ready to set in place. One or two table-
spoonfuls of flour, scattered over the
cherries, will thicken the juice a little.
Brush the edge of the lower paste with
cold water, and press the edge of the
upper paste upon it, but keep both lifted
from the edge of the plate. Cherries
are easily canned, and make almost as
good a pie as does the fresh fruit. A
pie made with fresh cherries requires
nearly forty minutes of cooking.

Blueberries are one of the most whole-
some of berries grown; ripened under fair
conditions, cooking is not essential, but
if the season be cold and rainy, or very
dry, the toughness of the skins will make

AMERICAN COOKERY

their use in cooked dishes more desirable
than would otherwise be the case.

To make pastry easily, make it in the
early morning before an open window
through which a gentle breeze is blowing.
If preferred hot, reheat in the oven a few
minutes before serving. Good pastry
depends upon good flour, choice shorten-
ing and careful manipulation, but more
than all else for a successful pie is proper
baking. The temperature must neither

be too high nor too low. Too slack an
oven allows the fat to run from the paste
before the combination is fixed by the
heat. Too high heat burns the crust
almost at once. Fat is one of the best
means by which variety may be in-
troduced into the daily food. Thus
even in June and July do not dispense
with all frying, sauces and pastry. Do
not forget to have one blueberry and one
cherry pie.

Katherine Helps Her Aunt Ellen

By Louise Bennett Weaver

" /^ OOD morning, Katherine, you are
VJ just in time to help me bake; how
would you like that?"

"Oh, Auntie, May I?"

"Yes, put on that big blue apron, and
get out that box of recipes in the top
drawer. I always keep 'a number of
blank cards in that box, and whenever
I find a recipe I like, I cut it out and
paste it on a card. Look under the card
marked 'cakes,' and get 'Devil's Food.' "

"Oh, goody, that is such a good cake;
here it is."

"All right, put it right up here on the
shelf, so I can read it easily, and so that
I won't get anything on it."

"Behind you, Katherine, get a piece
of that waxed paper, that comes around
the bread, cut two pieces exactly the
size of the bottom of those square cake
pans. Fit them nicely in the bottoms.

"Shall I butter the sides where the
paper does not come?"

"No, indeed, for I want the cake to
stick to the sides, and if they are buttered
the cake will draw away, and not rise
evenly."

"That is just the way mother's little
drop cakes act when she bakes them in
muffin pans."

"Tell your mother that I always dust
my little pans with flour and then the
cakes do not burn so easily, for you know
how butter burns, and the cakes come

out of the pans so nicely this other way."

"Please get that round-bottomed bowl,
and the wooden spoon with slits in it."

"Why the wooden spoon, Auntie?"

"Because it has a round handle, which
makes it easier on your hand to stir with.
Break the eggs, and be very careful
to get out all of the white, for often that
is wasted by clinging to the shell and being
thrown away."

"Why, Auntie, mother never throws
away the egg shells, but saves them to
clear the coffee."

"How do you know what 'clearing the
coffee' means, dearie?"

"How simple, Auntie, don't you know
that? When mother makes coffee she
takes an egg shell, all broken up, mixes
it with her coffee and a little cold water,
then adds boiling water and lets it boil
just three minutes, I think, and when it is
done it looks so pretty and clear."

"Put the egg-whites in that other
round-bottomed bowl, then put the
yolks in that small bowl, for I am not
going to use them until tomorrow. You
must always have the egg-whites very
cold to beat nicely, so put them back in
the ice box until we are ready."

"Those egg-yolks won't be any good,
if you keep them, — mother's never

are.

Just wait and see. Beat them up
thoroughly with a fork, add a table-

KATHERINE HELPS HER AUNT ELLEN

spoonful of cold water, and cover them
with that glass cover, now put them in
the ice box, and tomorrow they will be
as good as ever."

"What will you do with them to-
morrow, Aunt Ellen?"

"Well, I can make some salad dressing,
a custard, a yellow cake, or put them in
a salmon loaf, but I shall have to wait
until tomorrow comes.

"Did you mix the baking powder with
the flour? I thought our book said not to
add that, the baking powder, until the
very last."

"You are surely an observing little
girl, Katherine. I always mix and sift
three times, a pinch of salt, the baking
powder and the flour. In this way the
baking powder is so much better dis-
tributed through the cake, and it will
rise very much better. Remember
always to sift the flour once before
you measure it.

"Now, while I am adding these dry
ingredients and the milk, to the butter
and sugar, which has been creamed, you
may beat the egg-whites.

"No, do not use the Dover egg-beater,
— that is only for the yolks. When I
want anything, as cream or egg-whites,
to increase in bulk, I always use that
spiral whip beater, with all of those little
wire coils around the outside edge, they
help to entangle air and that makes the
eggs beat up much better."

"Shall I add a pinch of salt to these
egg-whites?"

"Surely, always, for that 'freshens'
them. Give me that vanilla, please."

"I didn't think that chocolate cake
needed vanilla."

"Yes, but it does, — -wait and see if this
does not taste good. The vanilla brings
out the other flavors. You beat your
eggs, and I will beat this cake mixture.
You know we do not beat the cake after
the egg-whites are added, for they lose
some of the air which has been beaten
in them. All ready, begin. We both
must use continuous, steady, vigorous
strokes in beating."

Auntie, did you forget to attend to the

oven

I attended to that, and even regu-
lated it about three minutes ago. It is
already now at the right temperature.
I always start my cake in a moderate
oven, at first, to give it a good chance to
rise. After it has been baking for fifteen
minutes, I increase the heat a little.
Yes, your eggs are very stiff. See whether
you can turn your bowl upside down,
and the eggs will not start to fall out.
Yes, those are all right, now let them
stand a minute, while I finish beating."

"Oh, Auntie, you must not let the
eggs stand!"

"Just for a minute, Katherine, then
they will slip right out of the bowl into
the cake batter, and you won't even have
to take a knife to scrap off any from the
inside of the bowl."

"I think that is a good idea, for you
don't waste any, then."

"When did you add the chocolate?"

"Just before I put in all of the flour.
Didn't you see me take some flour and
put it into the cup to clean out all of the
chocolate? You know some people waste
so much chocolate by letting some of it
stay on the dish in which it is melted.
Now I will very carefully add the egg-
whites. There it goes all carefully poured
into the pans, and I will put the pans on
the middle shelf of the oven.

"WThile that is baking I will mix up
the sugar, water and a pinch of cream
of tartar for the icing."

"What does the cream of tartar dor'

"It keeps the icing from getting grainy.
Yes, I mixed it all together, very well, and
now I must not stir it one bit while it is
on the fire boiling. When a hair forms,
when some of it falls from a spoon, it
will be ready to be poured very slowly
upon the egg-whites, which must be very
stiff. Then I will have to keep beating
it, never stopping until it is cool, and
then spread it on the cake."

"Aunt Ellen, mother's icing is some
times still hot when she puts it on her
cake."

Concluded on ■page 62

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

Warm Weather Hints

WHEN warm weather comes, nearly
every member of the family enjoys,
besides the usual warm baths, a daily
cool one — especially the athletic young
son and daughter — and the towels some-
times become a laundry problem. A
sensible way to save the housekeeper's
time, energy or money, is for each member
of the family, after his bath, to take his
own turkish towel to the clothes line,
pin it up, turn the hose briskly upon it,
and leave it there to drip dry in the air
and sunshine. No ironing is needed for
the ordinary turkish towel, for "rough
dry" it is ideal for creating the friction
that aids circulation after a cold bath,
and a towel hosed and aired by this
method is clean and wholesome enough
for several days, before it requires the
usual hot water and soap tubbing. And
it does save the housekeeper a great deal,
besides giving each member of the family
the satisfying feeling that his own com-
fort is not making extra work for others.

If furniture is to be repainted, either
for the summer home or for a warm
weather change in the year around home,
dove gray is a good choice, for it does
not show soil as quickly as white, is
dainty and cool looking and harmonizes
beautifully with all of the summery-
looking cretonnes.

Every housekeeper owes it to herself
to possess at least one very cool dress to
wear on the most sweltering days of the
season. White is always popular, be-
cause it is dainty, comes in thin weaves,
and is so easy to wash, but for cool looks,

pale green or blue, instead of rose or
yellow are a very good choice for one
little mid-summer house dress. A simple
design, with a plain skirt, short sleeves
and a frill trimmed fichu draped over
the waist, will remain "in style" year
after year, and donning such a frock
really means a great deal in "cooling off'3
the family at the evening meal, when
anything unsightly after the fatigue of
work on a smothering day is the last
straw.

A bare, polished table, so cool looking,
with either a simple crash stringer or
sanitas cloth mats, is ideal for hot
weather meals, either indoors or out on
the porch.

A Boston fern, the pot tied in frilled
white crepe paper, is as good a decoration
for the living-room or dining-room »as
could be chosen during torrid days.

Everything having its compensation,
usually, the housekeeper should take
advantage of the bright sunshine of mid-
summer to air and sun such articles as
will benefit by such exposure. A great
many cooking utensils — especially tin-
ware, will keep sweet longer for a fre-
quent sunning. Linens, stored away,
because especially prized, may be kept
from mildew and other forms of rotting
if aired on one bright day once a year.
Anything that needs to dry quickly is
best washed on a hot day, even if it must
dry in the shade to prevent fading.
Shampooing one's hair or switch is easily
done when the air is dry and warm, be-
cause they dry so promptly.

To keep the kitchen cool, the house-
keeper should use a fireless cooker when-
48

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

ever possible, and serve fruits for desserts.
To cool the house generally, especially
where there are concrete walks and drive-
ways close to the building, wetting once
or twice daily will cool things off won-
derfully, because concrete radiates so
much heat and sprinkling helps cool it
by the process of evaporation. N. d. d.
* * *

"A Dutch Treat Outing"

DEAR MARGUERITE:
Hurrah for camp! Just listen
while I tell you how Helene Moody says
her family and friends have managed a
"DUTCH TREAT OUTING" for sev-
eral summers, with a maximum of fun
and minimum of work and expense; and
then play to join MY party and "try
out" the Moody's plan.

Helene says they make up a "welcome"
party to open camp, and then, as no one
but Helene, her mother and brother can
stay the whole season, they arrange to fill
the recurring vacancies with other friends;
always trying to have from seven to
twelve in camp.

At first they rented a furnished cottage,
for two dollars a day, and "dutch treat"
fashion divided rent and all other ex-
penses; and now, since they have bought
the cottage, flhey manage the same way,
and the rent money keeps the cottage in
repair.

Their cottage is on an Adirondack lake,
and easily accessible from the train by
row boat or launch; and Helene says she
is sure we can rent an adjoining cottage
this summer. Doesn't that sound in-
teresting?

Here is a sample outline to show how
they divide expenses.

Individual

Date

People

Rent Me

als Groc. Sundries

July 1

$.28 4-7

" 2

.25

" 3

.22 2-9

" 4

.20

" 5

.16 2-3

Allowing for stock on hand, suppose
the grocery and incidentals sum up

320.25. Divide this by 135, and the
price per meal is 15 cents (this is about
what it costs the Moodys, gasoline and
oil for the motor boat included).

Now suppose I have been in camp five
days at 25 cents, and twenty days at
20 cents, and eaten seventy-five meals?
My bill will be 316.20. Isn't that a
clever and simple arrangement?

The work is easily disposed of. They
choose helpers, and two act as house-
keepers, two as cooks, two as dishwashers,
and two as hostesses one day; the next,
the housekeepers cook, the cooks wash
dishes, the dishwashers act as hostesses,
and so on; rotating theiwork so that each
day's duties are different. Tom and
his chum bring wood, water and run the
motor boat.

"Many hands make light work," as
the saying goes, and Helene says the
work is play, just enough to keep one
from getting lazy! I am sure this is
true, for Helene tells of the loveliest times
they have tramping, climbing mountains,
fishing, playing games and attending
parties.

They take a fireless cooker and alcohol
stove, and buy groceries and home-
cooked food at the little village around
the bend of the lake.

The cooks start the dinner in the fire-
less, while the others are doing their
work, and then they are free until dinner
time for motor rides, reading, fishing or
gumming.

I forgot to say they hire a strong woman
once or twice a week to do the heavy
work.

I can't write more, as I must write the

other girls, but do please decide to go!

Lovingly,

Eileen. c. m.

* * *

The Ship That Comes In!

RAIN gushed noisily through the
gutters, flooded the drain pipes, and
emptied in great gulping sounds, like a
hungry man hurriedly swallowing hot
coffee. Rain beat on the windows,
tightly closed, like a naughty urchin,

AMERICAN COOKERY

playing tick-tack-too on a squeemishly
moonless night. And Mother said the
children could not go out to play! . . .
And they must be quiet till Grand-
mother's nap was done. Grandmother
hadn't been very well this week. . . .
That is how the ships came to come in.
A lot of ships all well loaded.

Mother whispered in Eda's ear. And
Eda brightened. "My ship's come in,"
said Eda.

"What's it loaded with?" asked
Mother.

"It's loaded with A," explained Eda.
"And A is the first letter of the thing it
is loaded with, like Apples; only it
isn't apples," she warned. "It is some-
thing in this room. It has to be some-
thing in the room, that is one of the
rules, and it is something you can see if
your eyes are sharp," mischievously.
'It is something a ship can be loaded
with, and it begins with A. Now guess.
You can take turns, baby first, and keep
on guessing, but if any one guesses out
of his turn, he has to go stand in the
corner and be the dunce; he's out of the
game. But the one who guesses right
becomes the Captain of the next Ship,
and loads it again, and then we all try
to guess again. And if there is a Dunce,
he can come back into the new game,
and see if he hasn't learned Wisdom.
Now guess!" said Eda.

And the children all guessed, and it was
with excited shout that Robert guessed
Ashes, about the last guessable A in the
room, and ASHES it was that loaded that
strange ship, a queer cargo. So Eda
turned over her Captain's papers to
Robert, and Robert loaded his ship with
H, and what do you suppose that was?
. . . You may guess, all of you, for it
was such a hard one, and everybody
guessed and guessed and guessed, and
made little inspection trips about the
room looking for possible 77'j, till Mother
said the Crew must be all Secret Service
Agents, and then Grandmother got up,
her nap all finished, and came in looking
very fresh and rosy-cheeked, . . . and

guessed it the first guess! . . . Everyone
shouted with glee, it was such fun, and
Grandmother had to be Captain. But
Grandmother said she wasn't going to
have such a heavy load as Robert put
on his ship, it would break her back
getting it on, she was going to have some-
thing nice and light. So she loaded her
ship with F. . . . Now what did Robert
have on his ship? And what did Grand-
mother load on hers?

(H stands for Hardware, nails and
hinges, and tack-hammers, and andirons.
F stands for feathers, found in all the

cushions.) i. r. f.

* * *

Dandelion Wine

GATHER six quarts of fine flowers,
and look over carefully and wash.
Place in a large crock and add one gallon
of cold water and let stand for three days
and three nights.

Then pour the contents of the crock
into the colander to drain. Return
liquid to crock, and add four pounds of
granulated sugar, one yeast cake, broken
up, two lemons, cut up, and let the mixture
stand three days and three nights, again.

Then strain the liquid and put into
bottles. Do not fill the bottles full, but
leave a space for the liquid to work.
Tie a bit of cheese-cloth over the mouth
of each bottle to keep out the flies.

We find this method superior. The
dandelion wine is almost specific in
breaking up a cold and it is convenient to
put away a few bottles, just to use in an
emergency. After the wine has ceased
working, and cleared itself, all that is
required is to provide each bottle with
a good cork, well put in, and the bottles
are ready to store away in the cellar.

String Beans in March

Gather four quarts of string beans.
Wash well and remove the strings.
Place in a crock and add about two cups
of table salt. The beans will form the
brine.

Cover beans with a plate and put on a
weight.

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

Beans may be added, from time to
time, till the crock is full, and salt added,
so as to keep to the proportions stated.

To freshen the beans, place as many as
you require in a granite kettle, and fill
up with water and set on the stove to get
warm, even hot, and, after the first
freshening, taste and if still too salt add
more water and repeat the process. By
heating the water the freshening is a
short process.

When fresh enough add just enough
water to cook tender, and when done
add some good cream or generous lump
of butter and season with pepper.

This method is superior to dehydration
and is very little bother. The beans
come out of the brine as firm and crisp
as the day they were put down, and have
a delicious flavor and, by the uninitiated,
are considered canned string beans.

We did not open up ours this year till
the first of March, because we were busy
using the parsnips that had wintered
out, but even yet the string beans come
■out in all their former color and cris-

piness. f. m. c.

* * *

To Preserve the Heart of
Watermelon

TO one pound of fruit take one-half
pound of sugar and the fruit of
one watermelon; add the rinds of six
lemons, pared and cut into shreds, and a
few blades of mace.

Boil the fruit until clear and then boil
the syrup until it thickens. Ginger is
sometimes preferred for flavoring in-
stead of lemon.

(Make the blades of mace VERY few.)

* * *

One Wage Example

HAVE you ever considered that the
domestic servant, one of the most
adequately paid groups of workers, is
wholly without organization, or labor
unions, for the purpose of "collective
bargaining?" And her wages today,
under the old and popularly discredited
law of supply and demand, are astonish-

ingly high. An inexperienced waitress
gets 38 a week and her board and room.
Cooks, 310 and 312, in similar circum-
stances. Considering all the home oppor-
tunities which usually attend this con-
nection, here are wages that compare
very favorably with the organized and
unionized collective bargainers.

On the other side of the water this
class of helpers still work for deplorably
modest compensation. Here is a typical
advertisement in a recent issue of the
London Times, offering a general cook
what amounts to 33 a week.

COOK-GENERAL wanted; comfortable home;
housemaid kept; wages £30; three adults in
family; must be respectable, experienced and
clean; good references required. — Apply after
6 o'clock.

Not least of the features in this ad-
vertisement is the implication that the
servant will stay in the place at least a
year. The tenure seems to be as sub-
stantial there as it is fragile here.
* * *

The Best Utility

IF I were asked to name what, in my
opinion, is the most desired utility of
modern life, I would not name the rail-
road, nor the telephone, nor the electric
light, nor the automobile, essential as
they are, but I would name running water
in the house. This conduces more to
cleanliness and health and comfort than
any other improvement that modern
civilization has brought us. It can be
had, too, with little cost. There is not
a farmer of moderate means who cannot,
with economy, have running water and
sewers in his home, and this would
contribute more to the health and com-
fort of his family than any other im-
provement. The house fly and the
mosquito are deadly enemies of our
people. They can be guarded against
with slight expense. With running water
and screens, any home, however humble,
can be clean and comfortable and healthy,
and the people who live in 'it will be
cleaner, more comfortable and more
healthy. — St. Louis Board of Health.

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4061. — "What is the best way
to test the Heat of Fat for Frying doughnuts?
Is it satisfactory to use Beef Suet with Lard for
frying? If so, what should be the proportions
of the two fats?"

Best Way to Test Fat for Frying

Do not wait until the fat smokes; it
is then too hot for frying. Drop a
crumb of stale bread, or bit of doughnut
dough into the fat; if the bread rises at
once to the top of the fat, and colors
while you count 40, or a bit of the dough,
while you count 60, the fat is of the right
temperature. We have not found a
thermometer of much use in the frying
of doughnuts; the temperature changes as
new cakes are put in, and one had better
learn to note the changes in the dough
than to spend the time reading the ther-
mometer. Turn the cakes as soon as
they rise to the surface, and often there-
after, until done. Some will cook faster
than others; remove, as done, and drain
on soft paper.

Is a Mixture of Lard and

Beef Suet Satisfactory

for Frying

One-third beef suet and two-thirds
lard are considered by many cooks a most
excellent medium for frying. The beef
suet should be cut up in very small pieces,
and set over the fire in cold water to
cover. Let cook very slowly on an
asbestos mat (a double boiler is good,
but lengthens the time of cooking) till
all the fat is extracted, then strain. If
the fat is not to be used at once, it is well

to return it to the fire to evaporate any
water left in it, which would otherwise
cause the fat to mold.

Query No. 4062. — "We are looking for
'Ideas' to use in our Domestic Science Ex-
hibition. Can you not add a few to what we
already have? We are to call the afternoon
'A Food-Saving Exhibition.'"

A Food-Saving Exhibition
MILK

1. Show a quart of milk, half a loaf
of bread and three-fourths a pound of lean
beef. These are each equivalent in food
value.

2. Two quarts and one-half of skim
milk contains as much protein as a pound
of round steak. Show these together.

3. Make each article taste so good
that no one will leave one mouthful
uneaten. Fish hash, scalloped potatoes,
creamed onions.

4. Show milk ready to be scalded in
a double boiler, by which flavor is saved,
no milk wasted, and the dish easy to wash.

5. Dry all left over parsley and celery
leaves on an agate or aluminum plate on
the shelf over the range, and use to make
cream of celery soup or to flavor other
soups.

6. Cornmeal or other mush, cooled in
a small dish, cut in slices and fried, may
be eaten with syrup, as a bonne bouch at
breakfast, or as an entree with meat.
Show some in the pan and some fried.

7. As cans of home canned foods are
eaten, refill the cans with celery, squash,
broth from fowl or lamb, or with a few

ADVERTISEMENTS

aw a

wluj \i
smok\j

kitchen ?

Crisco comes in this air-tight,
dirt-proof package. Get it at
your grocer's. One pound, net
weight, or more.

Send 10 cents for this 25 cent book :
"The Whys of Cooking". Tells
why Crisco makes foods more
delicious and digestible. Tells
how to set the table and serve
meals. Gives over 150 appe«
tizing recipes, with many col-
ored illustrations. Written by
Janet McKenzie Hill, founder
of the Boston Cooking School
and Editor of" American Cook-
ery." Address Dept. A-6, The
Procter & Gamble Company,
Cincinnati, Ohio.

The house is free from smoke and smell
when you fry with Crisco — the wholesome,
modern cooking fat. It is odorless, and
does not smoke at frying heat. This means
that you can fry doughnuts, fritters, or
croquettes in the kitchen, without sending
a cloud of greasy smoke through the house,
to settle in curtains and draperies, and
announce your menu in the parlor.

Butter smokes at 329 degrees; lard at 400;
Crisco, because it is a pure vegetable fat,
does not smoke until it is heated to 455
degrees, much hotter than is needed either
for deep or shallow frying. There are no
black specks of burned grease on Crisco-
fried foods.

You need no other cooking fat when you
have Crisco. It makes tenderer, flakier
pie-crust and biscuits than you have ever
tasted. Add salt, and it gives cake the
real butter taste at half of butter cost.
Put it on your grocery list now.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

figs or dates, left over; both in the same
can are admissible.

8. A good example of food-saving
would be a pile of potatoes, neatly
scrubbed for baking, and a dish of po-
tatoes pared thin with eyes carefully
removed, ready for boiling.

9. Plan to show some of the "Sug-
gestions to Shorten Hours in the
Kitchen," given in February, 1919.

Query No. 4063. — "In several cook books
recipes are given for bread made with Baking
Powder, with the statement that such bread was
suitable for dyspeptics and by those of weak
digestion. Please state if this^is a fact and if
so the reason for it."

Comparative Digestibility of

Baking Powder and

Yeast Bread

We recall nothing in print on the com-
parative digestibility of these two varie-
ties of bread. When fresh-baked, baking
powder bread is more easily masticated
and reduced to a pulp than is yeast
bread of firmer texture. We will be
pleased to have subscribers send for
publication any authentic statements on
this subject that comes to their notice
in their reading.

Query No. 4064. — "How may Cockroaches
be Exterminated from newly built hospitals and
other buildings?"

Exterminating Cockroaches

Avoid leaving any garbage standing
about longer than an hour; keep food
covered; keep all corners and crevices
dry; never leave any crumbs in any part
of the room. Blow insect powder into
all the cracks from which the vermin
come; brush up powder and insects and
burn; repeat the process several times,
then spread powdered borax about the
cracks and crevices. A strong solution
of carbolic acid — two tablespoonfuls to
a pint of water — may be used in the
same manner as the insect powder.

Query No. 4065. — "Recipe for Rice Border
in mould, center to be filled with Creamed
Chicken, etc."

Rice Border for Creamed Dishes

An illustration of rice shaped in a tin
border mould, the center filled with
creamed lamb, may be seen in "Season-
able Recipes" for this month. Chicken
is particularly good served in this way.
The rice may be cooked with simply salt
and water or chicken broth; or with
cubes of beef in the center, strained
tomato may be used; onion, parsley or
celery may be cooked either with the
rice or in the sauce for the meat.

Query No. 4066. — "Recipe for the original
'Thousand Island Salad Dressing.' "

Thousand Island Salad Dressing

1 cup mayonnaise

\ cup olive oil

1 tablespoonful tarra-
gon vinegar

j teaspoonful paprika

1 tablespoonful
chopped chives

1 tablespoonful
chopped pimientos

tablespoonful
chopped green
pepper

1 cooked egg-yolk,
sifted

1 tablespoonful wal-
nut catsup

1-3 cup chili sauce

Mix all together. This recipe, and one
published on another page of this same
issue, or in the May number of the
magazine, were both sent to us as the
original recipe for "Thousand Island
Salad Dressing." The principal differ-
ence in the two recipes is that one has
mayonnaise and the other French dress-
ing as the foundation.

Query No. 4067. — "Recipes or ways for
serving Bombay Duck."

Bombay Duck

Bombay duck or ducks come in tins;
they are a variety of fish put up in Bom-
bay; the price is forty cents a can. The
fish is used in the preparation of appe-
tisers, or hors d'oeuvres. Bombay Ducks
are imported by Crosse and Blackwell of
London, England. Tins may be pur-
chased of dealers in fancy groceries in
Boston, New York and other large cities.

ADVERTISEMENTS

Ryzon and Food Education

Interest in careful preparation of food grows
more widespread every year. Schools, magazines
and newspapers are teaching the importance of
modern methods in the kitchen.

And so when a new baking powder was intro-
duced there were thousands of progressive house-
wives and domestic science teachers to welcome
RYZOX, the Perfect Baking Powder.

Their tests convinced them of its scientific,
economical and dependable qualities — a baking
powder that insured successful results — and they
found their own high standards of food prepar-
ation embodied in the new RYZOX Baking Book.
Their endorsement has been a big factor in
spreading the doctrine of better food preparations.

Ryzon

Ryzon is 40c a pound. The new Ryzon Baking
Book (original -price $1.00), containing 250 prac-
tical recipes, many of conservation value and
others easily adapted to present day needs, will be
mailed, postpaid, upon receipt of 30c in stamps
or coin, except in Canada. A pound tin of Ryzon
and a copy of the Ryzon Baking Book will be sent
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher
who writes us on school stationery, giving official
position.

GENERALCHEMICALtQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

We must all do our best to make the change from War Work to Peace Work as
easy as possible. Co-operation is the Big Thing needed now.

U. S. DEPT. OF LABOR

Wm. B. irHsori. Secretary

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
55

AMERICAN COOKERY

Bombay Duck as an Appetiser

Drain 'the fish on a soft cloth, wiping
meanwhile to remove any superfluous
oil. Cut into thin slices and set into one
of the compartments of the hors d'oeuvre
dish. In another compartment set olives,
in another pulled bread, and if there be
another, in that radishes may be given a
place. Garnish the various compart-
ments with sprigs of parsley and cress.

Query No. 4068. — "Recipe for Cocoanut
Cakes made like those at Bailey's in Boston."

Cocoanut Cakes

(Miss Bradley)

We do not know that these cakes are
the same as sold at Bailey's; we have no
way of getting that recipe. These are
good cocoanut cakes. Grate fresh cocoa-
nut to make two cups. This will take
about two cups. To this fresh cocoanut
add two tablespoonfuls of corn syrup,
seven tablespoonfuls of sugar, and cook
in the top of a double boiler until the
mixture clings to the spoon. Add whites
of egg, and cook until mixture feels
sticky, when tried between the fingers.
Spread in a wet pan, cover with a wet
paper and let cool; then chill by setting
pan on ice in the refrigerator. Shape
into balls, first dipping the hands in cold
water. For ten cakes use one and one-
half tablespoonfuls of mixture for each.
Heat a tin sheet slightly and rub over
with white wax, paraffin or olive oil.
Set the balls on the sheet and bake in a
slow oven about twenty minutes.

Query No. 4069. — "Is soup usually served
at formal luncheons?"

Soup at Formal Luncheons

A clear soup, some variety of con-
somme, is usually served as the first
course at a formal luncheon. When it is
desirable to lengthen the number of
courses, hors d'oeuvre are sometimes
served before the soup.

Query No. 4070. — "Should the Dessert
plate be removed before or after the Coffee is
served?"

Service of Coffee

Preferably the dessert plate should be
removed before the coffee is brought in;
much depends on number of waitresses
and time at disposal of the diners. When
convenient, it is quite enjoyable to serve
the coffee in the library or living room.

Query No. 4071. — "Should Salad be served
on individual plates, or should each guest help
himself from a large plate?"

Service of Salad

The salad should be served on indi-
vidual plates, chilled, but if desired it
may be brought in on a large plate from
which it may be transferred to the in-
dividual plate. A green salad should
never be served on the plate with hot
food, as it becomes wilted and is thus
indigestible.

Query No. 4072. — "Should Bread and
Butter Plates be used on the table for luncheon
and dinner?"

Use of Bread and Butter Plates

Bread and butter plates are used for
breakfast and luncheon; if butter be
used at dinner, it is set in place on a small
butter pat.

Query No. 4073. — "Should Coffee be served
with the luncheon or after it? "

Service of Coffee

At a formal luncheon coffee is served
in small cups after the meal; at a more
formal affair the coffee would be served
in a larger cup, and at the beginning of
the meal.

In a pamphlet issued by the Irish com-
missioners of national education the an-
nouncement appeared: "The women
teachers are being instructed in plain
cooking. They have had, in fact, to go
through the process of cooking them-
selves."

ADVERTISEMENTS

"Iowa's Pride" Breakfast Bacon

With the Famous Yorkshire Flavor

Keenly appreciative of fine-flavored meats were
the hearty Yorkshire squires — and the famous York-
shire flavor is a legacy in which
every American home may share.

Alluring recipes for breakfast
dishes — originated by Mrs. Ida C.
Bailey Allen, America's foremost cul-
inary expert — -yours for the asking.
Just send your name and address and
your dealer's.

Beauregard Eggs
With Bacon

2 four-inch slices "Iowa's
Pride" bacon to person.

1 piece of toast to person.
1 egg to person. White Sauce.

Hard-boil the eggs. Remove
yolks. Chop whites in f inch
cubes. Mix with white sauce.
Fry bacon. Place 2 strips on
each slice of toast. Cover
bacon and toast with white
sauce mixture. Press yolk
through sieve over all.

John Morrell &2 Go.

OTTUMWA, IOWA

Breakfast Ideas

" Iowa s Pride" Ham

Morr ell's Roast Beef Hash

"Iowa's Pride" Dried Beef

"Yorkshire Farm" Orange Marmalade
"Yorkshire Farm" Butter

Morrell s Corned Beef Hash

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

The Silver Lining

A Conundrum!

I strolled along the country lane

To study nature — but in vain,

For there preceded me two girls,

With hair in saucy, clinging curls,

Restrained by automobile caps,

With bright red veils and jaunty flaps,

And wearing khaki suits of rose,

With hiking boots and striped hose!

"Bon jour, Bon jour!" at last I gasped,

And then with nervousness I clasped

My nature book — as turned around

The luring comrades I had found —

For lo! they were the Grandma-ma's

Of Violet and Hazel Maas!

With "Au revoir" I hastened by,

Nor paused to hear their curt reply!

But soon I caught my breath in glee,

For seated 'neath a chestnut tree

Sat Violet and Hazel Maas,

Awaiting their perk Grandma-ma's;

All gowned in suits of sober gray,

Discussing topics of the day —

How germs might lurk in devious places,

The "RIGHTS OF WOMEN," "WAR" and

races,
In such a clever, knowing way,
I bowed and left them in dismay.

— Carolyn Sumner.

It Was His Own

Slater was absorbed in the evening
news when his young son's crying dis-
turbed him. "What is that child crying
for now?" he demanded irascibly.

"He wants his own way," said Mrs.
Slater.

"Well," argued Slater absent-mindedly,
as his eye fell on a particularly interesting
item, "if it's his, why don't you let him
have it?"

The sexton of a suburban church has
many stories to tell of the comments
made by visitors. On the occasion of a
festival, when the church was beautifully
decorated with evergreens and flowers,
an old lady walked up to the chancel and
stood sniffing the air after every one had
left the church. " Don't it smell solemn ?"
she said at last to the sexton, as she
turned away with evident reluctance.
"I don't just know as I ever realized
just what the 'odor of sanctity' meant
before today." — The Continent.

One night at a theatre some scenery
took fire and a perceptible odor alarmed
the spectators. A panic seemed im-
minent, when an actor appeared on the
stage. "Ladies and gentlemen," he said,
"compose yourselves. There is no
danger." The. audience did not seem
reassured. "Ladies and gentlemen,"
continued the comedian, rising to the
necessity of the occasion, "do you think
if there was any danger I'd be here?"
The panic collapsed. — Syracuse Post-
Standard.

An officer just returned from France
is telling this story: "Where," iie asked
of a negro soldier of one of the New
York draft regiments, "did you come
from?" "From N'Yawk, suh. From
de San Ju-an Hill district." "San Juan
Hill, eh! That's rather a tough section
of the city, isn't it?" "Tough! Man,
dat district's so tough dat de canary
birds sing bass." — New York Evening
Post.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

Add Another Joy to June

Strawberries are vastly better with Puffed Rice scattered on them.
These grains are so thin, so flimsy, so flavory that they just fit in with
fruit. And they add what crust adds to a shortcake — a delicious blend.
The ideal summer supper is Puffed Wheat in a bowl of milk.

These grains are toasted whole-wheat bubbles, crisp and flaky, eight
times normal size. Every food cell is exploded, so they easily digest.

Crisp and douse with melted butter for hungry children in the afternoon.

Teach girls to use Puffed Rice or Corn Puffs in home candy making.
They make candy lighter and give a nut-like taste.

Whole Grains Steam Exploded

Puffed Wheat and Puffed Rice are whole-grain foods, of which children
get too little.

Over 100 million steam explosions are caused in every kernel. Thus
every granule of the whole grain is fitted to digest.

Serve them abundantly.

In summer time keep all three kinds on hand.

Puffed Rice Puffed Wheat Corn Puffs

All Bubble Grains. Each 15c Except in Far West

The Quaker Qats (bmpany

Sole Makers

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Back to Nature

"Why is it, Sam, that one never hears
of a darky committing suicide?" in-
quired the Northerner.

"Well, you see, it's disaway, boss:
When a white pusson has any trouble
he sets down an' gits to studyin' 'bout
it an' a-worryin'. Then firs' thing you
know he's done killed hisse'f. But when
a nigger sets down to think about his
troubles, why, he jes' nacherly goes to
sleep!" — ■ Life.

"Man is the only animal that uses
tobacco," said the prohibitionist who
had joined the Anti-tobacco League.
"Yes," replied the Rounder. "And he
is also the only animal that is always
minding other people's business."

— ■ Knoxville Journal and Tribune.

A man called at the address where a
donkey had been advertised for sale.

The door was opened by a small boy.
The caller said, "I have come to inquire
about the donkey." Whereupon the
boy went to the foot of the stairs and
called out, "Father, you're wanted."

"I put in the French phrases here and
there," said the would-be author, "to give
the book an atmosphere of culture."
"That's all right," said the publisher,
"but it would have helped still more if
you'd put in a little good English here
and there." — Boston Transcript.

At every social affair there is usually a

man who is said to be "the life of the

party." And how I do dislike that man.

— ■ E. W. Howe's Monthly.

"It is mighty hard to please her."
" Oh, it's easy enough if you can make her
decide what she wants." — ■ Life.

DotibleSterling

The 40 Feature Range-*

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Complete Coal Range and Complete Gas Range
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Send for our handsome catalog describ-
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If you haven't gas con-
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♦ Sterling Rande

he range that bakes a barrel of flour with
a single hod of coal.

Sill Stove Works, Rochester, N. Y.

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ADVERTISEMENTS

<&M V

"Now Guess"

"Oh, mother knows what I like
and what all the kids like, so I
know it's

ELL"

For party occasions for children
and grown-ups, nothing is so good
as Jell-O.

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY
Le Roy, N. Y.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

MAKES TASTY

CAKES—

mtJ eCWTtNTSOht fcAU

Crisp, thin-rolled maple
snaps, maple sponge
cake, maple raisin cake, etc., are easily
made with this pure cane and maple
syrup. Many of your favorite recipes
will be improved by the addition of
Uncle John's Syrup.

It's as Necessary on the Table
as the Sugar and the Cream

You'll like it on hot biscuits,
brown bread, steamed bread
and waffles. Fine on ice cream
and grape fruit. Order a can
today.

Put up in 4 convenient sizes.

New England
Mapie Syrup Co.

BOSTON, MASS.

*£

)$.

CAME AND
MAPLESUCAR

SYRUP

VVI

,^z

Fleischmann's Yeast

As a Medicine

Compressed yeast is being prescrib-
ed and used with splendid results in
cases of boils, carbuncles, pimples and
similar skin afflictions.

It is also a gentle but efficient lax-
ative.

"The Healing Power of Compressed
Yeast," is the title of a little booklet
that will tell you all about it.
Free on request.

The Fleischmann Company

701 Washington St., New York City

{Catherine Helps Aunt Ellen

Concluded from page 47
Well^Katherine, if it is hot when
put on^the cake, it usually gets very
hard and cracks in^a little while on the
cake."

Yes, that is justwhat it does on ours."
:Tell your mother toAadd some cold
water, if *the icing gets thick, when still
hot, that will really make it even lighter
and fluffiier any way. If it ever fails to
get thick even after it is cool, tell her to
add jsome powdered sugar.

"Come back, Katherine, in an hour,
and I will cut the cake and give you
some!"

"You can't cut it when it is hot, can
you ? Won't it stick all-over the knife ? "

"No, it won't, for I always moisten the
knife with water whenever I cut very
fresh cake, and it works splendidly."

"Well, Auntie, I surely will come back,
and thanks ever so much for letting me
help you. Good-bye."

"Good-bye, dear; thank you. Next
time maybe we can make a lemon pie."

l. b. w.

Miss Blank, who wished to become a
candidate for the position of teacher in the
public schools, went up for examination
recently. She was called upon to read a
passage from "Macbeth" which closes
with the words which Macbeth speaks to
Lady Macbeth, "Prithee, come with me"
"And what." asked the examiner, "do
you understand 'prithee' to mean?"
"I understand it to be a corruption of
'pray thee,'" replied the would-be
teacher, surprised at so trivial a question.
"I am glad," said the examiner. "The
lady who came just before you assured me
that it was the^Christian name of Mac-
beth's wife." — Judge.

ANGLEFOO

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

The United States Public Health Service advises:
"Arsenical Fly ~ Destroying devices must be rated as /
extremely dangerous, and should never be used."

rflrTS

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ADVERTISEMENTS

ox says

LL berries and fruits, fresh
or ''put up" are improved
beyond your dreams by the addi-
tion of Knox Sparkling Gelatine.

Experts call Knox the "4-to-l"
gelatine because it goes so much
-each package makes four pints of jelly and blends
so perfectly with all other foods. Here, for instance, is an
easily made dessert with strawberries.

KNOX

SPARKLING

GELATINE

Strawberry Cream Recipe

1 level tablespoonful Knox Sparkling A cupful of fresh strawberry juice
Gelatine. and pulp.

% cupful of cold water. }: ruptu! sugar.

1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 3 egg whites.

Soften gelatine in cold water: heat over hot water, until dissolved. Strain, add to strawberry
and lemon juice. Slowly stir in sugar: set bowl containing mixture in cold water; beat until
gelatine begins to set. Carefully fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Turn into a wet mold and
chill. Garnish with strawberries and strawberry or mint leaves. Any fresh or "'put up" fruit
may be used in place of the strawberries.

This recipe makes one pint mold or six individual servings and uses only '< of a package of
Knox Sparkling Gelatine.

Strawberry Salad can be made with this recipe by omitting the egg whites and
using only '/{ cupful of sugar, ';_> teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of halved straw-
berries. Turn out on lettuce leaves, garnish with whole berries and serve with
boiled or mayonnaise dressing.

Knox Knowledge Book's — "Dainty Desserts" and "Food Economy"
are full of easily made desserts and salads; also household hints.
They are free if you give your grocer's name and address.

KNOX GELATINE

Mrs. Charlos B. -Knox

107 Knox Avenue

Johnstown, N. Y.

Plain for general use —
easily' prepared

KNQX

SPARKLING

GELATINE

Including pure lemon
flavor for quick use

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Qke Standard Rubber at the Standard Price

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 27 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, Mass.

The Largest and Oldest Manufacturers of Jar Rubbers in the World

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ADVERTISEMENTS

bors/

WHY RELIABLE RUBBERS
SAVE LOSS IN CANNING

Old fashioned pre-
serving known us the
"hoi pack" method

The Old Fashioned Open
Kettle Method

In the early days of canning in glass jars the
old-fashioned "open-kettle" method was used
exclusively with the fruit packed thoroughly
cooked and boiling hot into jars. The ring
served only as a cushion to prevent the passage
of air between the top and shoulder of the jar.
There was no strain on the rubber, no pressure.

GOOD LUCK rub-
bers are elastic and
spring back readily

Then, as now, we were the largest jar ring makers in
the world. Home canning was increasing principally
because people wanted to can fresh vegetables as well
as fruits, but only the most skillful were successful.
Better methods of sterilization and sealing were needed.
We could do little to reform methods but we could pro-
vide a ring strong and elastic enough to make a perfect seal.

So, eleven years ago we produced the Good
Luck red rubber and offered it to the house-
wives of America. For several years it was not
widely appreciated. It was higher in quality
and therefore higher in price than most people
were willing to pay. It was considered better
than necessary but gradually housewives found
that this ring could be trusted and the circle of
Good Lick users widened from year to year.
They found it paid to buy a reliable rubber.

imposition rubbers
■well and "blow out"
during long boiling

Modern Methods Require
Live Elastic Rubbers

Then came "cold pack" canning. The new
gospel spread rapidly. In homes where the
amount of canning was large or for community
work, steam pressure canning was introduced
to save time, BUT ORDINARY RUBBERS
WOULD NOT DO:— they "blew out." The
long boiling in the water bath and the high
temperature of the steam pressure softened the rings, made
them swell and "bulge." This meant broken seals and
necessitated re-«terilizing, with loss of time and fuel.

Demonstrators and teachers found the answer to their
problem in Good Luck jar rubbers, already widely dis-
tributed and known to progressive housewives. Then the
real growth of Good Luck began. Today the Good
Luck jar rubber is the largest selling brand in the world.
Millions of packages are used annually to con-
serve the country's food supply, fruits, vege-
tables, meats and jams — whatever is plentiful
at one season and scarce at another. Home
canning has become practically universal since
danger of spoilage has disappeared. The Good
Luck Rubber is recommended wherever can-
ning demonstrations are given, because it is
known by name as the one reliable ring for
hot pack, cold pack or steam pressure canning

Over one hundred
million GOOD LUCK
rubbers were nsed
during IV] 8.

Don't Pay too Little — Don't Pay too Much

With modern canning, methods established, the rubber ring question be-
comes of utmost importance. As is always the case, the market is
flooded with competitive rubbers — some cheaper and some more expensive.
Home canning is done in the interest of economy. Good Luck rubbers
cost 15c a dozen, about 1% cents to insure the safety of each jar of food.
To pay less is to take an unnecessary risk. To pay more is to incur an
unnecessary expenditure. Good Luck Rubbers are thick, strong and
pure elastic, with plenty of live rubber in them — a standard rubber at a
standard price, tried and tested for any method of canning.

GOOD LUCK RUBBERS are sold throughout the country by grocers, hardware dealers, department
and general stores, and are furnished as standard equipment with Atlas E. Z. Seal jars. Buy your supply
of Good Luck Rings early this year. If you cannot find them in your locality send 15c for sample dozen,
and a 3c stamp for our new booklet on cold pack canning containing many new and delicious recipes.

OSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 27 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, Mass.

*he Largest and Oldest M anuf acturers of Jar Rubbers in the World

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

/ WM. CAMPBELL

\ Original Fireless

.Cooker Man ,

I Am Making a Low Fac-
tory Price On 10,000

rnnlrare ^Y Rapid roasts, bakes,

VsOOKciS fries, steams or stews.

Saves you work— saves you steps—

saves you standing over

hot cook stove. Try my

Aluminum Lined
Fireless Cooker

80 days on my personal money

back guaranty. Take a vote of

le entire family. If they

don't say they never had

better cooked meals — if

yon don't say you did it

with far less work, send

cooker right back and I

will return every cent.

Send for Free Book

Write postal TODAY.

The Wd. Campbell Co.

Dept. 73 Detroit, Slieh.

During the summer months you will
want moulds for Gelatine, Custards
and Puddings.

Buy a Wagner Cast Aluminum Mould. They last a
lifetime and never get out of snape like stamped ware.
The designs are like the imported block tin moulds u^ed
so extensively in England and France and are no more
expensive than a good tin mould.

If your dealer does cot handle them write to us for
catalogue.

WAGNER MFG. CO., Sidney, Ohio

Make Your Own

TOOTH PASTE

AT 50 CENTS A QUART

An expert chemist has perfected a
formula for making an exceptionally
high grade tooth paste. The remark-
able thing about this paste is that it can
be made by anyone in a few minutes,
no boiling being required.

The ingredients are substances which
you have in your home at all times.

Contains no pumice "or other injurious sub-
stance, such as many pastes contain.

Send for this recipe at once. Simply en-
close a dime and your name and address.

PLEASE DO NOT SEND STAMPS

ALFRED SCHNEIDER, Chemist

2531 Arlington Ave. Davenport, Iowa

" Keeping Everlastingly at it
Brings Success '

NOBODY can be successful in any
ejideavof without perseverance.
Whatever other attributes for success the
aspirant has, failure is inevitable, unless
accompanied by perseverance. Happily
this quality is readily acquired. If you
want a thing hard enough to bend every
effort toward getting it, and keep on
wanting and working, you'll get it.
Many men fail because they don't hang
on long enough. Just as the door of
success begins to open they grow dis-
couraged and throw up the sponge.

Perseverance means sticking to a thing
till you accomplish your aim. Per-
severance must be practiced continuously.
Almost anybody can persevere for a
month, or year, or when there are indi-
cations that things are coming his way,
but it takes the heroic soul, who earns,
and eventually acquires success, to keep
on struggling in the face of one dis-
couragement and setback after another.
It is the man who won't be convinced
that things can't be done who actually
does them. While every one is saying:
"Oh, that never can be done; anybody
knows that's impossible;" the persever-
ing man becomes more dogged, and
asserts: "I'm going to do it if it takes
till doomsday." It usually doesn't take
as long as that, though sometimes it
takes a lifetime.

Perseverance alone will not assure
success, however, unless intelligently di-
rected. You can do nothing contrary to
natural law, no matter how persevering
you are. You couldn't induce an ant to
spin a web if you tried forever, because
the laws of Nature are unalterable. But
if your ambitions are in harmony with
natural law, you may be certain that
intelligent perseverance will bring you
your heart's desire. A. J. s.

It only takes a few minutes to findJin
others the faults we can't discover in our-
selves in a lifetime. — Boston Transcript.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

A Famous Recipe —

"No-Egg" Mayonnaise Dressing

Made With Carnation Milk

WITH every woman who has tried the Carnation Milk
recipe for "No-Egg" mayonnaise dressing, it is more
than popular. Until this recipe is tried, you cannot realize
how excellently Carnation Milk blends into a really delicious
dressing. The uniform quality and undoubted purity of Car-
nation have much to do with this.

Carnation No- Egg Mayonnaise Dressing

2 tablespoons Carnation Milk; x/o teaspoonful salt; % teaspoon paprika;
x/l cup olive oil; 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice. Put salt and
paprika in bowl; add Carnation Milk and mix thoroughly; add oil
slowly, stirring constantly. Then add vinegar or lemon juice. (If too
thick, thin with more Carnation Milk.)

The many advantages of Carnation as the household milk supply are only
appreciated when it is given a thorough test. Try it exclusively for sev-
eral days, using it not only in all your cooking, but (undiluted) as you
would cream in coffee and with cereals. You will then realize its econ-
omy, convenience and value.

Carnation is only cows' milk — sweet, clean
and pure — evaporated to the consistency
of cream, hermetically sealed, and steril-
ized to maintain its purity and whole-
someness. For cooking or drinking, re-
duce its richness by adding pure water.

Our Interesting Recipe Booklet and
Special Folder Free

Every reader of this magazine is especially and
cordially invited to write us for a copy of "The
Story of Carnation Milk," which contains a hun-
dred choice, tested recipes. We will mail a copy
without charge on request.

We also have a special folder on "how to whip
Carnation Milk," which we will send to Domestic
Science instructors for distribution among their
classes. Address: Carnation Milk Products Co.,
463 Consumers Bldg., Chicago.
Guaranteed by
Carnation Milk Products Company
Seattle Chicago Aylmer, Ont.

Condenseries located in the better dairyinq sec-
tions thronqhout the United States and Canada.

Remember— Your Grocer Has Carnation

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

Ifguess) that's

faboutjdone

These two words don't belong. Not in your kitchen
any more than in the expert chef's. Not now. Today
the newest housewife can always tell the minute bak-
ing is Derfectlv done without even looking at it.

You know your oven has the right heat by look-
ing at your Taylor Oven Thermometer. One
of the

Taylor

Home Set

This set makes all the difference between "guess' '
and "know." The sugar meter, for example, shows
in. figures when canning syrups are just right.

Three Taylor Recipe Books free with set. No
chance to make a mistake in these recipes.'

Taykr Instrument Companies
Rochester, N. Y.

Oven

Thermometer, $1.75
Candy

Thermometer 1.50
Sugar Meter 1 .00

The three for $4.25
Prices in Canada and
Far West proportion-
atelyhigher. If dealer
can't or won't supply
you, send $4.25 direct to
us with dealer's name
and it will be sent you
prepaid.

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMQ-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMO VESCO.
Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 ^oz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 16oz., $1.00
(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

ALMOST AN ACT OF TREASON

CONCERNING the teaching of for-
eign languages in public schools,

Mrs. Guernsey, well-known educator,
said:

"It has been demonstrated that one of
the greatest barriers to patriotism is a
foreign language. This war has taught
us that the supreme mistake in all of
our educational methods has been right
here. The use of a foreign language in
our public schools has been almost an
act of treason. We might as well have
been teaching Sanskrit as. German, and
far better, for Sanskrit would not have
kept American youth from growing
American souls. We might as well try
to grow roses in the Arctics as to develop
an American consciousness while speaking
a foreign language.

"The American people are strangely
affected by clothes and food. What
kind of an American consciousness can
you grow in the atmosphere of sauer-
kraut and limburger cheese? Or what
can you expect of the Americanism of the
man whose breath always reeks of garlic ?"

To make every dweller in this country
"the proud possessor of an American
soul," Mrs. Guernsey said, she would
send Minnesota Scandinavians to the
South, scatter thousands of Wisconsin
Germans through New England, and
compel hundreds of thousands of Jews
in New York to seek homes in the far
West. This, she declared, was "because
American neighbors were needed by
every one of foreign birth or ancestry."

Since Noah taught Shem, Ham and
Japheth, was there ever a time when the
schools did not need "reorganizing?"

SALAD

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail 100 Meat-
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N. Y.

SEVEN-CENT MEALS Hf\£Znr^

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. Thi:,
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or free for names of four friend: |
interested in Domestic Science.
Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicag<

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

[iniiiiHiiiiiiiii.ii.h.iiiiiiiiiiilHii.:,.;: .ij,.: ■ ■ .;i::„

Tart Green Salad Loaves

Made with Lime-Fruit Jiffy -Jell

One summer use for Jiffy-Jell is in
tart, zestful salads.

Lime-fruit flavor — which is lime-
juice essence — makes an ideal salad jell.
Some serve it with the salad, some mix
the salad in before the jell is cool.

Cooked or uncooked vegetables are
made in this way into zestful salad

Also Meats

Meat scraps mixed
in Lime Jiffy-Jell
make an appetizing
loaf — meat in aspic.

Mint Jell

Mint Jiffy-Jell makes a garnish jell,
rich in fresh-mint flavor. It is better
than mint sauce to serve
with cold meats or roast
lamb.

r*"
ft*

t 1

Lime Flavor
For Salad Jell

The salad loaf at top is made in our
aluminum mold, Style D. It serves a
full package of Lime
Jiffy-Jell with vege-
tables or meat mixed
in. The six indenta-
tions mark the six in-
dividual servings.

We send this mold
free to anyone who will
mail us end labels from
five Jiffy-Jell packages
—the labels which state
the flavor.

T \

Afmf

For Garnish

Jell

For Desserts and Salads

Ten Flavors in Glass Vials

A. Bottle in Each Package

Strawberry Cherry Loganberry
Pineapple Lemon Raspberry
Orange Coffee Lime — Mint

Tzvo Packages for 25c

Flavors
In Glass

All Jiffy-Jell flavors
come in liquid form, in
glass — a bottle in each
package.

That's the only way
to get the real-fruit flavor in desserts.

The fruit flavors are
fruit-juice essences con-
densed. Each flavor
is rich and abundant,
and made from the fruit
itself.

Once compare Jiffy-
Jell with the old-type
desserts and you will
always get it.

Waukesha Pure Food Company, Waukesha, Wis.

465

mii

I IIIIIIIHHIIIIII Illlllllllllll IIIHIIIIIHIIH III1IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIM

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes
• 69

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

n SERVES YOUR HOME AND
SAVES YOUR TIME THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
'Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles — Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grade piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for General Utility.
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW
for a Descriptive Pamphlet
and dealer s name.'
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

504J Cunard Bide. Chicago. III.

=Domestic Science=

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers" Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
I (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, III.

MORTON'S SALT

When it Rains

it POURS

MORTON SALT COMPANY

80 E. Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, Illinois

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's
Spices

The A.Colbur n Co.,
Philadelphia,U.SA

Catering for Entertainments

(From The Caterer, London)

The following quantities may be taken
as approximately correct:

Six teaspoonfuls of tea are equal to
one ounce, which is sufficient for four
persons — ■ one pound for sixty people.

One and a half teaspoonfuls of coffee
(ground) are equal to one ounce, two
ounces for three people, one pound for
about twenty-five people.

Fourteen small cups of iced coffee go
to a quart.

One pound of sugar suffices for forty-
five people; one small teaspoonful of
loose sugar is the equivalent of one lump.

About one-fourth pound of fruit salad,
and one-half pint or two small tumblers
or cup of lemonade should be calculated
per head.

Allow three slices of bread and butter
for three people, and sandwiches should
be estimated on the same scale. Large
cakes, one slice to every two people;
small ones, three for two people.

One quart of ices (welcome refresh-
ment at a dance) will be enough for
twenty small helpings if unmoulded; if
moulded only for half that number.

About one-fourth pound of fish (un-
cooked) and one-third pint of soup will
allow adequate helpings for one guest;
while one chicken, boned and made into
a galantine, will make twelve helpings,
but if roast or boiled, not counting the
legs, this is only for four or six people.

Eight to ten helpings of sweets or
savory can be obtained from a quart
mould.

It may be useful to give a menu of a
dinner, which in pre-war times could
be supplied for a hundred people at,
say, 18d. per head, and to calculate
what it would cost in these days of food
shortage, high prices, and restriction.

Potage de Quele deJ3ceuf
Eperians Frits

Salmi de Gibier
Pommes Anna
Poule Roti
Souffle a la Vanilla
Fromage

Filet de Turbot au Gratin
Filet de Bceuf Braise
Puree d'Epinards
Salade

Gele au Citron
Dessert Cafe

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

70 *

ADVERTISEMENTS

UNSEEN
SERVANT

/A?

Perfect Meal

is the perfect refrigerator. This silent, but important
center of kitchen activity makes or mars the food set on
your table. Both hostess and meal are sure to be at their
best when the kitchen boasts a

The Herrick serves perfectly because of its scientific con-
struction and twenty-seven prize-winning features.

But it not only serves — it saves. Herrick insulation
and airtight construction mean ice economy. Its smooth
lining and easily removable drainage system save cleaning
trouble, while its perfect preserving powers prevent waste.

Help For Home Builders

If building, you will be interested in our free blue print
service furnished in connection with the Herrick Outside
Icing Refrigerator. See panel for special conveniences.
Dealer's name and booklet B6 furnished on request.

Approved by Good Housekeeping Institute and
New Yor\ Tribune Institute

THE HERRICK REFRIGERATOR CO.

206 RIVER STREET, WATERLOO, IOWA

HERRICK — "The Perfect Servant"

Extra Conveniences
Outside Icing

Herrick Outside Icing
Refrigerator elimin-
ates:

The need of ice in cold
weather.

The interruptions of the
iceman.

The annoyance
of tracked-up floors.

Installation plans fur-
nished free to home
builders.

Mechanical Icing

can also be installed on
any Herrick Model
where desired.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

ROWE'S GLOUCESTER

¥ T A KJt Hflf^i^Vf Direct from factory to home
rlAJVllVlV-r^lV Charges prepaid in the U. S.

Take comfort and

The Rowe has all-quality construction — built up to an ideal and
not down to a price. Standard in bed hammocks for thirty
years. Used exclusively at summer resorts, clubs, camps and in
homes of people who know values and demand comfort. Made
in (government standard) non-fadeable, 21-oz. U. S Khaki or
white sail duck that will resist wind, weather and rough usage-
Costs a few dollars more, but will outlast ten one-season
hammocks. Send for catalogue.

If it's made of canvas we can make it. SAVE THIS Ad.

E. L. ROWE & SON, INC., Workers in Canvas

142 Water Street " Gloucester, Mass.

ELKHORN CHEESE

8 VARIETIES IN TINS

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO.

CHICAGO AND NEW YORK

AS NEVER BEFORE YOU NEED A
COPY OF

CANNING, PRESERVING
AND JELLY MAKING

By JANET McKENZIE HILL

The economic condition of the times
demands that all surplus vegetables and
fruit be carefully preserved for future
use. Modern methods of canning and
jelly making have simplified and short-
ened preserving processes. In this book
the latest ideas in canning, preserving
and jelly making are presented.

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, on receipt
of price, $1.00.

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, and renew
your subscription for American Cookery one year, both
for $2.25

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, to any
present subscriber sending her renewal at $1.50 and one
new subscriber for American Cookery at $1.50 and 25
cents additional ($3.25 in all).

Address

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.

Boston, Mass.

Boy Was Mournful

Little Willie, together with his parents,
was invited to a Sunday dinner at the
home of his uncle. Chicken was the
piece de resistance of the gladsome lay-
out, and, being a great lover of the dainty
morsel, Willie expanded his appetite to
fit the occasion.

When the dessert was served the
youngster had to balk. Manfully he
made two or three stabs at the dish, and
then gazed at it with a dejected expres-

sion.

What's the matter, Willie?" asked
his uncle, with a smiling glance at the
youngster; "you look mournful."

"That's just what the matter is,"
pathetically answered Willie, "I am
moren'n full!" — Chicago Journal.

A sage is a man who will sit up at night
and worry over things that a fool never
even heard of. — ■ Pelican.

"Another labor problem is how men
with no work can strike for more pay."

Domestic Service Problem Solved!

For 12c postage we will lend you our
new 544 pp. book, Household Engineering
by Mrs. Christine Frederick, showing how
to solve this and all other home problems.
Return in 5 days or keep it and pay
$2.00. Fair enough?

Am. School of Home Economics
503 W. 69th St., Chicago. Adv.

White Mountain

REFRIGERATORS

"The Chest with the Chill in it"

They are built on scientific principles,
and have earned for themselves the uni-
versal and enthusiastic approval of that great final Judge
—the PUBLIC.

Sold in every city and important town in the United
States. Send for handsome catalogs and booklets.

"In Over a Million Homes"

MAINE MANUFACTURING CO., Nashua, N. H.

Established 1874

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS -

iW I t&jKNfS

Crisp, Delicious, Tempting Bacon
Cured and Smoked the Wilson Way

Wilson's Certified, the brand name
for our best quality products, has
been given our famous Majestic
Bacon to make more certain your
selection of this highly nutritious
and economical food.

Certified" is the key- word in our
institution. It means everything
that the Wilson label stands for. It
means our good faith, our skill, our
experience, our judgment. It means
the last limit of our determination
that the Wilson label must guide

you to the selection of foods that rare
beyond question as to quality. Every
Wilson product is selected, handled
and prepared with respect— the care-
fulness and thoughtfulness your
own mother would show if she were
to oversee their preparation for you.

When you buy ham or bacon, ask
for Wilson's Certified.

If your dealer cannot supply you,
we can stock him immediately, for
our distribution is national.

SV/A/Z

"Jhia mo/ik

WILSON & CO.

X7 ^7

CHICAGO

\jowi (juxvumiee"

The Wilso

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

NESNAH— THE PROTECTIVE FOOD

(Made in a Jiffy)

A well-balanced diet is what we all need to achieve much and to maintain good health; these
two things are necessary to all of us.

But how are we to maintain good health and accomplish the task before us? One way we can-
not do it is on a faulty diet.

One thing that will help towards success and health is a well-balanced diet. Most of us are busy
people, and do not have time, perhaps, to think much about food. We don't know whether ours is
a well-balanced diet or not.

"Milk is a protective food," according to the best authority. And in saying that he means
that whatever element may be lacking in the diet is supplied by taking milk, because it contains
every element necessary for the human system.

One pint of milk taken each day as Nesnah Pudding is an ideal
protective food.

Nesnah must be made with milk, and it makes taking milk a real

CHOCOLATE NESNAH PUDDING

Heat one quart of milk lukewarm, drop into it one box of Choco-
late Nesnah, and dissolve by stirring one-half minute. Pour into in-
dividual glass cups and allow it to stand undisturbed ten or fifteen
minutes. Place in refrigerator, and when well chilled serve with a little
whipped cream.

One ten cent package makes a quart

Six pure natural flavors
Vanilla Lemon Raspberry Almond Orange Chocolate

A post card will bring you a sample package and a Nesnah cook booklet

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc.

The Junket Folks
Box 2507 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.

Practical Binders for American Cookery

We have had made a number of binders in green, red and ecru buckram,
appropriately lettered. They are neat, attractive and practical. Each holds
conveniently from one to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine.

As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a com-
plete index, by preserving the magazines in a binder one will have at the
end of the year a complete book on cooking and household science always
handy for reference.

Sent postpaid /or one (1) new subscription to American Cookery. Cash Price 75c

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. m«.°"

MISS FARMER'S SCHOOL OF COOKERY Miss£££?dley

30 HUNTINGTON AVENUE

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Courses of four and eight weeks from April to November

SUMMER COURSES

JUNE 9 TO JULY 3

JULY 7 TO AUGUST 1

1st and 2nd COURSES IN COOKERY ADVANCED COOKERY

MARKETING DIETETICS

TABLE SERVICE BALANCED MENU MAKING

FOOD VALUES COOKING FOR PROFIT

HOUSEHOLD ADMINISTRATION HOUSEWIFERY

Open all the year

Send for bulletins

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

Meat -Roll

A l'Americaine

Put enough cold cooked beef through a food-chopper to maice two
cup uls to this add a cup of soaked, squeezed stale bread crumbs,
one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tablespoonful of minced
parsley, salt and pepper. Heat two cups of stock in a double
boiler, add three heaping tablespoonfuls of Minute Tapioca and
cook for about fifteen minutes; then add the meat mixture, stir
well, remove from the fire and cool. Flour the hands and shape
into a roll, place it in a baking tin, pour ih some beef dripping,
bake till brown, frequently basting with the gravy,

And on the third day —
Meat-Roll a l'Americaine

Ly Tuesday, Sunday's roast becomes a problem-
The housewife who treats her family to this new
dish, however, finds that another worry has vanished.
This delicious meat-roll instantly becomes one of
the family's treats, along with the other Minute
Tapioca favorites.

Minute Tapioca possesses great energy-building
value. It is easily digested. It has a delicate flavor
which delights everyone. It may be used in soups
and gravies as well as entrees, salads and desserts.
Always ready for use, Minute Tapioca may be
thoroughly cooked in fifteen minutes.

Look for the familiar red and blue package with
the Minute Man on your grocers shelf. The new
Minute Cook Book gladly sent free upon request.

Minute Tapioca Company

106

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AMERICAN COOKERY

"Take My Advice," says Mustardpot
"Always Ask For — and Get

STICKNEY & POOR'S

Prepared Mustard

I'll stake my reputation that you'll like it better, yes, much better than any other mustard
you ever used. It's pure, absolutely — and so perfectly blended that once you try it on sand-
wiches, cold meats, in salad dressings, mayonnaise, etc., no other mustard will do. Put up
in handy glass containers in a variety of sizes. Stickney & Poor's Dry Mustard is good, too.
It ought to be. You'd say so yourself, if you could see how carefully the finest selection of
imported seed is chosen. There's more than a century of experience back of its preparation,
and its full strength and fine flavor makes it the most economical to use for table or culinary
purposes. Put up in sealed quarter and half-pound cans. Please remember, Mustard is
only one of the "famous products of a famous house.'1' Stickney & Poor's Spices, Seasonings
and Flavorings, like Stickney & Poor's Mustards, are sure to please you. For goodness sake,
ask for them by name."

Stickivey «5* Poor Spice Company

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919
Mustard-Spices BOSTON, MASS. Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

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ADVERTISEMENTS

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m One Socket

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Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Holder enables you
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Price 15 cents.

Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug
screws into any electric socket without twisting
the cord.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri-
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums:

CONDITIONS

• Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
- to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
Stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

Serve Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic;
Coffee and Fruit Jelly; Pudding and other
desserts with your initial letter raised on
the top. Latest and daintiest novelty for
the up-to-date hostess. To remove jelly
take a needle and run it around inside of
mould, then immerse in warm water; jelly
will then come out in perfect condition.
Be the first in your town to have these.
.,,, . , ,, ... , , ., ,, You cannot purchase them at the stores.

I his shows the jelly turned from the mould *

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription.

This shows mould
(upside down)

Cash Price 75 cents.

"PATTY IRONS'5

As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky
pates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv-
ing hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables,
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes
securely packed in an attractive box with recipes
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME
AND EGGS

Does the work
quicker and bet-
ter than it can
be done in any
other way. One
will be sent post-
paid to any-
present subscri-
ber as a premium
for securing and
sending us one
(1) new yearly
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best qulity blued steeL 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1)
new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for two
pans.

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.

:: Boston, Mass. I

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ADVERTISEMENTS

PREMIUMS

PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES

(Bag not shown in cut)

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made
especially for Bakers and Caterers./ Eminently suit-
able for home use. W

The set sent, prepaid, forgone (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE A. M. C.
ORNAMENTER

Rubber pastry bag and
twelve brass tubes, assorted
designs, for cake decorat-
ing. This set is for fine
work, while the set des
scribed above is for more
general use. Packed in a
wooden box, prepaid, for

two (2) new subscriptions.

Cash price, $1.50

LOOSE BOTTOM

ROUND 9 INCH

LAYER CAKE PANS

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(1) new subscription. Cash
price 75 cents for two pans.

TRIPLICATE SAUCEPAN

Aluminum, detachable handle. Cooks three things at once, on one cover.

Convenient and a fuel saver.

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HOME CANDY MAKING
OUTFIT

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most of all, a book written by a professional
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price, $3.00.

ROTARY

MINCING

KNIFE

Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect-
ually chops parsley, mint, [onions, vegetables, etc.,
and the shield frees the knives from the materials
being cut.

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash
Price 75 cents.

3^Pint Aluminum Double Boiler

A heavy, superior

article. An absolute

necessity in every

:itchen. Sent, prepaid, as

>remium for two (2) new

inscriptions. Cash Price

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AMERICAN COOKERY

CCPYRISHT 1919 BY THE PSCCTER 4 6AMSLE CO.. CINCINNAT

HE woman who appreciates
beautiful old china takes pride
and pleasure in washing her treas-
ured bowls and jugs and plates.
Just as she values the china too
highly to entrust its care to servants, so is
she particular to use for its cleansing
nothing but pure, mild Ivory Soap.

Ivory Soap cannot injure either painted or
gold decorations on china, because Ivory
contains no free alkali nor any other

injurious ingredient. Neither does Ivory
contain unsaponified oil; its thick, cleans-
ing suds rinse off easily and thoroughly,
leaving no filmy streaks to cloud the
polished surface.

Ivory makes dishes clean in the strictest
sense. It leaves hands soft, white and
smooth — an Ivory quality that is im-
portant to every woman who does her
own housework and is careful of her
appearance.

IVORY SOAP .

99 &# PURE

'T floait

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ADVERTISEMENTS

Painted by W. V. Cahill for Cream of Wheat Co.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1919 No. 2

CONTENTS FOR AUGUST -SEPTEMBER

PAGE

HOME LIFE IN PIONEER DAYS. Ill Jane Vose 91

THE ARTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS IN THE HOME.

Ill Alice Urquhart Fewell 95

DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION Ladd Plumley 97

A MODERN SAGA Ellen M. Ramsay 101

SAVING STRENGTH IN THE HOME . . Mary S. O'Rourke 102

AUNT ANNA'S COMPANY CAKE Ruth Fargo 105

OH COME AWAY . . . . Caroline L. Sumner 107

TRAVELING COMPANIONS May Belle Brooks 108

A THEORY Arthur Wallace Peach 109

EDITORIALS 110

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone
engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 113

MENUS FOR ONE WEEK IN AUGUST . . Wealtha A. Wilson 121

MENUS FOR INSTITUTIONAL COOKING . . . Janet M. Hill 122

MENUS FOR WEEK IN SEPTEMBER . . Wealtha A. Wilson 123

FOOD NOTES FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER . . . Janet M. Hill 124

RECONSTRUCTED GRAPE JELLY .... Wealtha A. Wilson 125

PESTS MADE PROFITABLE Ida R. Fargo 127

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — A Raisin for Every Day —
If You Do Your Own Tinting — Goggles When Peeling Onions —
Currant Jelly — Save Your Cake Crumbs — Get Your Money's

Worth, etc 129

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 133

THE SILVER LINING 138

MISCELLANEOUS 146

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy Q$

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

ADVERTISEMENTS

When you want

whipped cream

in a hurry

use the

Dunlap

Silver Blade
Cream "Whip

Whips Cream in 30 Seconds
Makes Mayonnaise in 4 Minutes
Beats Eggs in 1 Minute
Mixes Omelettes
Whips Gelatine
Mixes Ice Cream
Mixes Custards

Will
even
whip
the cream
from the top
of a milk bot-
tle, in two min-
utes. So superior
to long, tedious, old-
fashioned methods of
whipping.

The perforated blade works at
the bottom of the bowl and can't
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If your dealer can't supply you, send his
name and $1 ($1.25 western states) and we
will send one prepaid.

CASEY HUDSON COMPANY

363 E. Ohio Street Chicago, 111.

BRANCH OFFICES

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AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR AUGUST - SEPTEMBER

Artistic Arrangement of Flowers in the Home,

Aunt Anna's Company Cake

Douglas' Maid Selection

Editorials ....

Food Notes for August-September

Home Ideas and Economies

Home Life in Pioneer Days

Menus

Miscellaneous

Modern Saga, A .

Oh Come Away

Pests Made Profitable

Reconst. ^cted Grape Jelly

Saving Strength in the Home

Silver Lining, The

Theory, A .

Traveling Companions .

The

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Apples Stuffed with Nuts and Raisins. Ill

Cake, Dainty White

Cake, Hot Water Sponge

Cheese Ramequins

Coffee, Iced, with Orange

Corn, Stewed Green, with Peppers

Dainties, Tea

Dessert, One-Two-Three. 111.

Dressing for Pershing Salad

Dressing for Potato Salad

Drinks, Hot Weather. 111.

Dumplings, Baked Apple. 111.

Egg Plant, Scalloped

Eggs Au Gratin

Eggs, Stuffed, for Buffet Supper or Picnic

Eggs, Swiss Style. 111. .

111.

116 Fruit, Half-Jellied .

118 Lemonade

119 Pancakes

117 Pastry for Meat Pies

120 Pepper, Spiced

114 Pie, Beefsteak and Kidney.
119 Pie, Salmon .

119 Punch, Mint 120 .

115 Punch, Tea .

114 Salad, Pershing. 111.

120 Salad, Potato, Summer Style

115 Salt, Spiced .
114 Sherbet, Orange
117 Tarts, Peach. 111.
117 Tomato, Paring a, without Scalding
117 Vegetable Marrow, Sauted

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Chowder, Canned Vegetable
Dressing, Cooked Salad .
Pickles, Sour Cucumber .
Pickles, Sweet Cucumber
Pie, Lower Crust in Lemon
Pie Crust, Recipe for Tender

136 Pudding, Chocolate with Bread

136 Pudding, Devil's Food Chocolate

134 Salad, Molded Cream Cheese .

134 Sauce, Drawn Butter Pudding

133 Sauce for Chocolate Pudding .

134 Sauce, Whipped Cream Substitute

PAGE
95

105
97
110
124
129
91
121-123
146
101
107
127
125
102
138
109
108

117
120
116
113
116
113
118
120
120
115
114
117
129
118
116
114

133
133
136
134
133
134

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

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84'

ADVUKllSlMVllUN Id

Mrs. Rorer's

COOKERY
BOOKS

Like the clasp of a friendly
hand, these books give the
idea of comfort, dependabil-
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all one needs to know about
cooking, living, health, and
the easiest and best ways of
housekeeping.

MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK

Over 1,500 recipes, covering every phase of
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for buying, preparing, cooking and serving.

Cloth, Illustrated, $2.50

PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK

Mrs. Rorer's famous cook book, full of the
brightest things in cookery. For the beginner
as well as the one who "knows how."

Cloth, $1.50

VEGETABLE COOKERY AND
MEAT SUBSTITUTES

This book goes into the whole subject of vege-
table cookery. A bewildering array of choice
and novel recipes. ' Also substitutes for meat.

Cloth, $1.50

EVERY DAY MENU BOOK

A menu for every meal in the year, besides
menus for Special Occasions and Functions.

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DIET FOR THE SICK

Valuable in sickness. What to feed and how
to prepare it, for all diseases.

Cloth, $2.00

KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY

A new-plan cook book. Its very simplicity
will commend it to housewives, for it saves time
and worrv.

Cloth, $1.25

MY BEST 250 RECIPES

Mrs. Rorer's own selection of the best things
in each department of cookery.

Cloth, $1.00

ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES, ETC.

Philadelphia and Neapolitan Ice Creams,
Water Ices, Frozen Puddings and Fruits, Sher-
bets, Sorbets, Sauces, etc.

Cloth, $1.00

CANNING AND PRESERVING

Tells how to can and preserve fruits and vege-
tables; Marmalades, Jams, Fruit Butters and
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Cloth, $1.00

NEW SALADS

Mrs. Rorer says that a salad should be seen
on the dinner table 365 times a year.

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CAKES, ICINGS AND FILLINGS

Contains a large number of enticing and valua-
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Full of suggestions for tempting and dainty
dishes, to tempt the appetite in hot weather.

Cloth, 75 cts.

BREAD AND BREAD MAKING

Bread, biscuits, buns, rolls, puffs, quick breads,
steamed breads; everything in bread.
Cloth, 75 cts.

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

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AMERICAN COOKERY

This cant happen

if you use only

GOOD(§)LUCK

The Original COLD PACK Jar Rubbers

in canning fruits and vegetables by
the "Cold Pack" Method. These rings
are thick, strong and elastic, made
especially to stand the long boiling of
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GOOD LUCK RUBBERS are stan-
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Our booklet, " Cold Pack Canning, " teaches
you the "Cold Pack" Method and gives many
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If your grocer doesn't keep GOOD LUCK
RINGS, send 15c in stamps fer a sample dozen

Boston

Woven Hose

and Rubber

Company

27 Hampshire Street
Cambridge, Mass.

A Manual of

Canning &
Preserving

By THEODORA M, CARRELL

Practical, simple directions for the
canning and preserving of all kinds
of vegetables and fruits.

Net $1.50

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=Domestic Science=^

Home-study Courses

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For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
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"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
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American School of Home Economics
ft (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111

ANGEL FOOD CAKE f£'££r.3Sr

I teach you to make them. Also other cakes. They bring $3.00 per
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fails. Particulars free.

Mrs. Grace Osborn, Box 71, Bay City, Mich.

Trade Mark Beglrtared

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For a limited time we can supply all back
numbers of American Cookery and Boston
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Order now if you wish to complete your
files.

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Magazine issues of December, 1914,

June-July, 1915, June-July, 1916,

and October, 1916

Address

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ADVERTISEMENTS

Four Invaluable Cook Books

Srkool

'orivr

Bosh«0>o'""t,

cooker

New Edition

THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL

COOK BOOK

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER

FOR many years the acknowledged leader of all cook books, this new 1919 edition
contains, in addition to its fund of general information, 2,117 recipes; all of which
have been tested at Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking-School; together with additional
chapters on the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on the Drying of Fruits and Vege-
tables, and on Food Values. With over 133 illustrations. §00 pages. $2.25 net.

KITCHENETTE COOKERY

By ANNA MERRITT EAST

Formerly New Housekeeping Editor,
" The Ladies' Home Journal."

THE arrangement of utensils and supplies in
the tiny kitchenette of a modern apartment,
and the menus and recipes to be used, are con-
tained in this up-to-date cook book. This book
not only tells what to cook in a kitchenette and
how to cook it, but it also takes up the more
difficult problem, in these days of high prices, of
what to buy when cooking for one or two
persons.

"Miss East presents a book which will be of
great value to all city dwellers in these days, when
the elimination of waste in food is one of the
greatest problems we face." — New York Sun.

With 32 pages of illustrations. $1.25 net

THE CANDY COOK BOOK

By ALICE BRADLEY

Principal of
Miss Farmer s School of Cookery

THE recipes in " The Candy Cook Book " are
wholesome, practical, and the directions are
so clear that the veriest amateur may be confi-
dent of obtaining toothsome results.

These three hundred recipes include uncooked
candies, fudges, chocolates, various fondants for
centers, caramels, hard and pulled candies, glaces,
meringues and macaroons, crystallized fruits,
dried nuts and fruits, popcorn candies, decorated
candies, favors, etc. In fact every sort of candy
that can be made at home without special ma-
chinery is here described.

Illustrated. $1.25 net

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING

By JANET McKENZIE HILL

Author of " Cooking for Two," " The Book of Entrees," " Salads, Sandwiches and
Chafing Dish Dainties," " The Up-to-Date Waitress."

IN this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented by a teacher
of cookery, and an experienced housekeeper, with garden vegetables and fruits in abundance at
her command. It may be said to contain the latest word on the subject, and is submitted to house-
keepers everywhere as a thoroughly reliable and trustworthy guide in the latest and best ways of
storing and preserving fruits and vegetables.

Recommended by the American Library Association: — " Aims to present the latest ideas on the
subject, using the methods found to be simplest and shortest by the experiments of the U. S. De-
partment of Agriculture, state universities and cooking experts."

Illustrated from photographs. 12mo., Cloth. $1.25 net.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

and

Sanitary

Inside and Out

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Protein Foods for August-September

Beef, Veal, Lamb, Chicken, Fowl, Fish (cod, haddock, sword fish)
Eggs, Milk, Custard, Custard Puddings

Carbohydrate Foods for August-September

Breakfast Cereals
Various Kinds of Yeast Breads

" " Baking Powder Breads
Cake, Cookies, Pastry
Puddings of Starchy Material and Fruit
Starchy Vegetables, as Potatoes (white and sweet)
Some Fruits, as Bananas, Grapes

Flavor Foods for August-September

Celery, Onions, Green Peppers, Tomatoes, Apples, Berries, Plums, Grapes

Protective Food for All Seasons

Milk and Green Vegetables

American Cookery

VOL. XXIV

AUGUST— SEPTET I B ER

No. 2

Home Life in Pioneer Days

By Jane Vos

THERE is a great divergence be-
tween our present day extrava-
gant tendencies and the simple
tastes of our ancestors. How widely
separated we are from their modes of life
and thought we do not realize, until, per-
chance, we visit an old-time house around
which clings the atmosphere of by-gone
days.

Even the old log cabias of the pioneers,
those landmarks which are few and scat-
tered in these days of progress, have a
certain quaint charm about them that is
in refreshing contrast to the modern style
of architecture, with all its elaborate
details and color-schemes for painting.

Fortunately, through the efforts of
Historical Landmarks Societies and pri-
vate individuals, who realize the impor-
tance of preserving these relics of olden
times, there are some interesting museums
throughout the country, which are not
listed as state or national institutions.
In some parts of the country, also, the
primitive life is still lived, as in the middle
West and South, for instance, where to
this day one sees the same old well-sweeps,
mills, fireplaces and relics as were in use
a century ago. The daily life, too, is
much the same, especially in the Alle-
ghany Alountains. A description of one
cabin will suffice for all.

One can fancy the building of a cabin
in the early days, when the sturdy pioneer
hewed his own beams for his simple
wilderness home, from which splendid
sons were to go forth to take their places
in the world. The tallest and strongest
trees were none too good to be sacrificed
for this primitive house, which was rudely

built on the principle of a rail fence, and
when all the chinks were filled in with a
mud plaster, and a picturesque chimney
added, the cabin was ready for occupancy.
As one pushes open the wooden-hinged
door of the cabin, which is decorated with
a stretched coon-skin, as it doubtless was,
frequently, in by-gone days, the wheels
of time seem to turn backward. There
stands the old clock, towering to the
roof of the cabin, ticking off the minutes
and striking the hours just as it has done
for the past two centuries, and it still
keeps perfect time. This old time-piece
was formerly owned by a man who kept
a village store, where customers had to
ring a dinner bell to call him to his dust
covered counters and antiquated shelves.

"HOME, SWEET HOME," EXTERIOR

AMERICAN COOKERY

To be sure, the winters were long, and
there were not the luxuries of our modern
houses; but there was a huge fireplace,
acres of fuel near at hand and strong
willing hands to keep a cheerful fire
burning on the hearth where the cricket
chirped as merrily as if there was no
such thing as winter.

There were many odd contrivances for
keeping warm in the winter time, and
examples of these are to be seen in the
old log cabin. There are foot stoves,
which were carried in the hand to church
and other places. Then there is the
old-fashioned copper bed-warmer, which
was a great comfort in the days of auld
lang syne, and which was filled with hot
coals and passed back and forth between
the sheets or blankets to warm the bed.

One can imagine the good cheer and
companionship of those who sat around
the great stone fireplace in the evening
and watched the blue and red flames
dance up the huge chimney, while the
snow drifted without and the wind

whistled around the corners of the little
cabin. What cared they for the wind
and snow, when they had one another,
and the comforts of a fire, which many
an apartment dweller might covet.

The family life, in pioneer times, must
have been very pleasant, for no house
was too poor to shelter several lads and
lassies, and, thrown upon their own re-
sources for companionship, as they were,
they became better acquainted with one
another, and father and mother always
shared the good times. The little people
were quite as eager to hear tales of when
father and mother were children as our
own youngsters are today, and when
candles burned low the family gathered
close about the fireplace, while stories of
the long ago were repeated.

This form of entertainment was varied,
and always afforded pleasure to the par-
ticipants. Sometimes it was father who
told of his boyhood home in the far East,
where he and mother went to school
together, when they were little children.

AN OLD-TIME FIREPLACE AND KITCHEN

HOME LIFE IN PIONEER DAYS

IN COLONIAL OR PIONEER DAYS

Often it was a tale of prowess when
father went hunting, and had a combat
with some wild creature whom he con-
quered speedily. Or, perhaps, grand-
mother sat at her spinning wheel and
told the wee tots wonderful stories, which
she manufactured even as she related
them, for grandmother's mind was an
imaginative one, and her tongue as ready
to spin stories as her distaff was to spin
the flax. Meantime, some of the young-
sters cracked the nuts they had gathered
in the autumn, while others shelled
yellow ears of corn, which afterwards
filled the great iron pot over the coals
with white flaky kernels that fairly
melted in the mouth. Sometimes little
Rufus or Elizabeth would become impa-
tient, because the corn popped so slowly,
then grandmother would divert their
minds by suggesting that they dance up
and down in front of the fireplace and
sing their popcorn song.
;'Pop! Pop! Pop! the kettle now is hot,

Oh, Popcorn man, please hurry up and
pop! pop! pop!"

Meantime grandmother sat before her
wheel with busy fingers and with a
twinkle in her merry eyes that proclaimed
her seventy-five years young. And when
the corn would commence to pop she
would say, "There, children, you see the
popcorn man heard you, and you will
soon have a kettle full of corn." And,
of course, they believed in the incanta-
tion, bless their dear childish hearts,
which were filled with many superstitions.

There was always a wooden cradle in
the house in those days, and while mother
was busy knitting warm mittens and
stockings for father and the children, she
never forgot to give the cradle an occa-
sional touch with her foot to keep up the
gentle swaying motion, so loved by his
Babyship. Such modern inventions as
mechanical cradles, where a button is
pressed and electricity does the rest, like
those which are built in the walls of the

AMERICAN COOKERY

houses of the wealthy, would have been
scoffed at by the pioneer mother. Her
tender heart would naturally have re-
sented any such interference with her
maternal rights, and she would have felt
that she had missed something vital in
her experience of motherhood, could she
not have kept the cradle rocking by her
own pedal extremities.

The large room which served as a
living-room and kitchen was the center
of the family life. At one end were the
"best things," — the writing table, with
its quill pen and dish of sand to be sifted
over the writing, in lieu of a blotter.
Here, too, was the ladder which led to the
attic, and a steep climb it must have
been. At the other end of the room was
the fireplace, and it was here that all
the simple meals were prepared, and the
kettle of water was always kept boiling
on the great iron crane. The old fire-
place is reminiscent of the sports of the
hunter, and many a wild duck or turkey,
stuffed with a dressing of beechnuts, was

sacrificed over the glowing coals for the
family reunion at Thanksgiving or Christ-
mas time. Even the set of toasting forks
beside the fireplace brings back a vision
of a rosy-cheeked woman preparing the
simple breakfast in the early morning
light.

Apples were as much of a luxury in the
early days as pomegranates are to us now,
but in due time the pioneer farmer had
his orchard and his garden, and long rows
of dried apples offered decorative pos- 1
sibilities, stretched, as they were, from
beam to beam, drying for pies and pud-
dings. Popcorn, too, hung from the
ceiling by the dry husks, handy for the
popper, when such a treat was desired.

The Lares and Penates of the pioneer
housewife were not so numerous as are
those of our twentieth century civiliza-
tion. Home-spun, linen tablecloths,
towels, sheets and blankets, and patch-
work quilts, in every-day use, comprised
her stock of household supplies. No
Concluded on page 142

...

MANY AN OLD DINING-ROOM COULD BE MADE ATTRACTIVE LIKE THIS

The Artistic Arrangement of Flowers

Home

By Alice Urquhart Fewell

th.

STUDY Mother Nature, for in her
keeping lies the secret of the suc-
cessful arrangement of flowers.
Before we can arrange flowers artistically
and attractively in the home, we must
first study them as they grow in the
garden. Color-schemes, grouping, and
general relationship between flowers and
foliage must all be studied directly from
nature, if we are to produce a natural and
artistic effect when the flowers are gath-
ered and brought in the house.

The selection of a suitable vase or bowl
is of prime importance, in arranging
flowers. Flowers that belong to a
class of low-growing plants should be
arranged in low bowls, while those of the
long-stem variety require a tall, slender
vase. Many flowers that grow in
groups, as some of the spring lilies, iris,
etc., are most attractive when arranged
in a low dish with the stems supported by
a flower holder. These flower-holders
may be bought in various shapes and
patterns. We have the round glass
holders, perforated with holes to support
the stem of the flower, and others come
in bronze and different metals, and are
fashioned to represent ducks, fish, frogs,
etc. These metal holders look especially
attractive in the water, and they may be
purchased at any store carrying Japanese
or Oriental things. A very natural
arrangement of flowers can be produced
by means of these holders, and by the
use of the wire frame. The wire frames
come in different sizes ready to fit any
vase or bowl. The frame holds the
flowers in place, and is of very practical
value when a large group of flowers are
to be arranged in one vase. The wire
mesh keeps each stem apart, and prevents
a heavy massed appearance.

Flowers must always be cut, never
broken or pulled from the stem, and they

SPRING FLOWERS IN LOW GLASS BOWL

should be placed in water as soon as
possible after they are gathered. Dahlias
and other flowers that wilt quickly
may have their stems dipped into boiling
water for a few minutes before they are
arranged in the vase. This seals the
stem, and the flowers will keep fresh
longer after they are cut. Nearly all
flowers will keep longer if a little piece

JAPANESE ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS

AMERICAN COOKERY

is cut from the stem each day, and the
water changed frequently.

Figure 1 shows an arrangement of
spring lilies grouped in a cut-glass bowl
and supported by a glass flower-holder.
This makes an especially attractive
centerpiece for a spring luncheon. The
flowers and leaves are grouped as they
grow in the garden, and a very natural
result is obtained. The leaves and
flowers are cut into different lengths, as
they are found in nature. Whenever
possible use the foliage which belongs to
a particular flower, and not that of
another variety of plant, although ferns
may be arranged with almost any flower
to good advantage.

Figure II illustrates the Japanese
arrangement of flowers. Only a few
well-chosen flowers are grouped together
in a low dish. In Japan one sees fre-
quently only a single flower or branch in
a vase, and a Japanese housewife may
spend half an hour in the arrangement of
a single branch. The correct placing of
the flower is the secret of the Japanese
arrangement. The iris in this illustration
are placed in two groups, as they would
grow in the garden, and a bud, together
with a few leaves, is included in each
group. Whenever possible, buds should
be arranged with the full-blown flowers,

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GROWING FERNS TRANSFORMED BY FLOWERS

FRUIT BLOSSOMS IN MOIST SAND

since we naturally find them growing in
this way.

Figure III gives the possibilities of
transforming a pot of growing ferns into
an attractive centerpiece for the table
by the addition of a few flowers. In
winter, when flowers are scarce, this
arrangement will be appreciated, for a few
flowers, which might otherwise be lost in
a vase by themselves, may be used to
brighten up the fern dish on the dining-
room table. If the earth in which the
flowers are placed is kept moist, they will
keep fresh as long as they would in water.
To prevent breaking the stems of the
flowers a small hole should first be made
in the earth with a pair of scissors, or a
knitting needle.

The arrangement of flowers in a basket
is illustrated in figure IV. These early
spring fruit blossoms are grouped in a
basket filled with wet sand, and an effect
is produced which would be impossible
in a vase filled with water. Baskets of
various shapes and kinds may be used
in this way. The baskets must be rather
closely woven, and those with tall handles
give an especially artistic result. The
basket should first be lined with several
thicknesses of heavy paper, or one may
have an inexpensive zinc lining made to
fit the basket. The sand should be put
in while moist, and the flowers arranged in
it will keep fresh, if a little water is

DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION

poured on each day. Sand is especially
good for the arrangement of heavy flow-
ers and branches, which would over-
balance an ordinary vase filled with
water.

The color-scheme is important in
arranging flowers. As a rule it is well to
keep to one color, and put only flowers
of the same variety together. White

flowers may be mixed with colors with
pleasing results, and two shades of the
same color often go well together. Green
of some kind, preferably the foliage of the
flower itself, should be included in every
arrangement. A study of nature will
reveal more about the arrangement of
flowers than a whole book written on the
subject.

Douglas' Maid Selection

By Ladd Plumley

WHILE on a visit in Albany Mrs.
Laurie selected a new maid,
whom her son agreed to meet at
the Grand Central Station. After he
met the maid he intended to spend the
afternoon at golf.

For fear of the dangers of stations, and
for fear that Douglas, who is very for-
getful, would not identify the maid,
instructions were sent by Airs. Laurie
to pin a white ribbon on her person.
Ancient device, but frequently resorted
to.

The train was a half-hour late, leaving
but a few minutes for Douglas to catch
his outgoing train to the golf club.
Passengers were endless; infinite luggage,
infinite confusion, infinite faces. Douglas
danced back and forth, straining his
eyes for the signal. Intent on a flag of
white, which he believed would be con-
spicuous, he failed to notice a slim girl,
in a loose grey coat, who carried a small
hand satchel, and was attempting to see
all the faces, at once, beyond the ropes.
Douglas would have missed the telltale,
if a porter had not blocked the way,
causing the ribbon to flutter directly
under his eyes.

"Quick!" he exclaimed, grabbing the
girl's satchel. "Right this way. In a
tearing hurry — train late — must catch
another. On the run, now!"

This, as with broad shoulders, he
separated the crowd, his companion

jostled at the rear and with difficulty
keeping him in sight. Shame on Douglas !
Not until he helped the girl into the taxi
did lights of what can be called heart-
smashers hold his own. When they
did, he glanced below the eyes at the
flushed cheeks and yet below at the
youthful figure in the loose coat. He
gasped. But back in his mind was the
thought of the train and his golf sticks
in the package room.

" Must catch my train — three minutes.
My mother said not to expect to see her —
shopping. They'll tell you — " He
could not bring himself to give his
mother's message to this young goddess.
"Got to hump myself. They will tell
you."

Although the heart-smashers were those
of a house maid, they performed their
task. His train and the golf sticks were
for the moment forgotten as he gazed
after the cab. The girl, too, was gazing
back, seemingly in wonderment. It was
a miracle he caught his train.

"You'll need a grip on yourself!"
he exclaimed, as he threw himself into
a seat. "What was the color: Hang
me if I know. But think of a maid with
eyes like that handing me the butter!
Gee whiz! Hang it! Why can't one
of the girls I know have decent eyes?
And you'll look nice, you will, letting
a girl like that take your hat and cane.
What was the color?"

AMERICAN COOKERY

He piled up a duffer's score, made his
caddy weep, and did other things that
proved the power of eyes. He hardly
knew what he did. He smashed the
ball, not caring whether he ever saw it
again, and lost three with never a regret.
Finally, with positive joy, he fractured
his best driver. He was glad when it
was time to return home.

He hesitated before he pressed the call
button at the door. Would she of the
eyes let him in? What was he that he
should expect such favors from an Albany
goddess? What was more important,
how was he to conduct himself? As a
starter he would not risk the eyes. The
door opened and looking downward he
tdok note of what protruded from the
bottom of a blue gown. Two broad feet,
encased in solid footgear. Heavens!
Could the goddess have feet like that?
But the feet brought confidence. If
you remembered the feet, you might
bring yourself to ask the girl to pass the
butter. His eyes traveled upward and
he gazed upon a stolid face, where green-
tinted orbs looked at him kindly.

" Ellen, sir," said the woman. " Dinner
will be served in fifteen minutes. The
madam is in her room.''

"May I ask," began Douglas, when
he and his mother were seated and the
new maid had stumped toward the
kitchen.

"It is your mother who will do the
asking," replied Mrs. Laurie. "And
for tying things into knots you are 'the
limit,' as you would say."

"As how?"

"You. go to meet a maid — she is
stupid, perhaps, and she made a mistake,
but that doesn't excuse you for kid-
napping a beautiful young woman. Mary
tells me she is beautiful. You kidnap
her and send her here. She is evidently
a stranger in the city. She is taken to
the servant's room and told to clean
silver and wipe up floors."

"Great heavens!" exclaimed Douglas,
as the eyes of his remembrance gathered
scorn.

'The young lady is frightened. Then
— I cannot blame her — she's angry.
She demands a cab. She flings herself
from the apartment. What could you
expect? She doesn't leave her name or
the name of the friends whom she is
visiting. I cannot make an apology.
It's a pretty mess. Even with your
forgetfulness — and I told you that Ellen
had light hair and green eyes — never
would I have believed it of you!"

"Great heavens!" repeated Douglas.
"But she did have a bit of white."

"A coincidence," said Mrs. Laurie.
And Ellen is a little stupid. She had a
notion that it was to identify her body,
in case of an accident. Had it pinned to
her stocking. But she gave a policeman
our name and he looked it up in the
directory and sent her by the subway."

"But the other? Didn't any one have
sense enough to find out where she's
visiting?" stormed Douglas.

"You know little of young women. It
wasn't a compliment to be told to wipe
up floors. No girl would leave an
address."

"Bad cess to that cook!" exclaimed
Douglas, adding under his breath some-
thing about eyes.

"We do not select maids by gazing into
their eyes," remarked Mrs. Laurie.

Douglas gulped a hasty meal. There
might be a chance that the taxi could be
identified. But when the cook was con-
sulted, all she knew was that the hall
boy obtained a taxi, and questioning the
boy brought no information. He called
a vacant taxi, and that was all he knew.

That night Douglas woke from a night-
mare. He had inserted a dream adver-
tisement in the papers. "Wanted by a
young man, who mistook her for a
servant, the address of a slim young
goddess, clothed in a loose grey coat, and
with eyes like bronze stars. If there's
any doubt, examine the eyes. Answer
immediately. The advertiser has already
lost his appetite and cannot sleep."
He sank into more dream-disturbed
slumber, where a multitude of girls, all

DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION

wonderful as to figure and eyes, but with
feet like those of Uncle Sam, sat in rows,
cleaning silver and harrowing his soul
with scornful glances.

He was late the following morning at
breakfast. When he entered the dining-
room, his mother was seated. "There's
somebody waiting to see you," she said.

"Probably wants to get my vote.
There're slathers of vote hunters. Before
I see him I'll eat breakfast. And — that
fool business yesterday. What an idiot
I was!"

"Still dreaming of the girl — and the
eyes!"

"Mater — it's foolish, perhaps, but
I'm going to try and find that girl. But
that's the trouble with a big city. You
might search for years and never — "

"Excuse me," said the new maid,
coming into the room. "Here's the
gentleman's card. He says he can't

wait

Douglas was met by a man of red face
and particularly big mustache, who
greeted him with great familiarity.

"Mr. Douglas Laurie," he said in a
loud voice. "The elevator man chucked
me your name."

"That's my name."

"I'll take your word for it," said the
visitor. "It doesn't matter what your
name is. You'll have to come right
along with me."

"What in blazes do you mean?"

"I've looked you up some. You seem
straight goods, but we get fooled a lot.
I've landed heaps what seemed all right.
Anyhow, you've got to come with me."

"There's a blasted blunder some-
where," said Douglas. "I suppose you
want me to go to a station house, I'll
get my hat and coat and tell my mother
a bit of business has come up. No doubt
it's a case of mistaken identity."

"Most likely," chucked the man.
'Till we find the goods on *em, it's
mostly mistaken identity."

When the turn of the inspector and
Douglas came in the line before the rail,
the official at the desk, after turning the

pages of a book before him, snapped
sharply to Douglas. "You're accused
of stealing a woman's money — Grand
Central — yesterday afternoon. You
put her in a taxi and sent her where they
attempted to keep her and make her do
some kind of work. We have lots of
funny business at railroad stations. Stand
one side. I'll phone the lady. She's
coming to identify you arid make a
charge."

"It's a blunder," stammered Douglas.
"My mother — "

"When a game gets strung up, it's
always a blunder," remarked the official.

"I can give prominent references. I
can prove — "

"Stand one side!"

For a half-hour Douglas fidgeted in
the human riffraff, the detective close
beside him. Then a girl entered, with a
young man at her side. The group
opened a passage for her, and Douglas
gazed toward the eyes of his dreams,
which were indignantly fixed upon him.

"Is this the man who met you at the
Grand Central and ran away with your
money after putting you in a taxi?"

The girl breathlessly gave her assent.

"How much did he* lift?"

The girl motioned to her companion.
"I'll tell the story," he said. "My
cousin has never been in New York
before. She hasn't seen me since she was
a little girl. I was to meet her. She
thought this fellow was me. He pushed
her into a taxi. Her money was in her
hand satchel. He ran with it."

"How much?" asked the officer.

"All the money father gave me to
spend in New York," replied the girl.
"Five hundred dollars!"

Douglas felt his legs weaken, as if they
had turned into something of the strength
of boiled macaroni.

"Got on the track of the wrong taxi,"
explained the inspector. "That's why
I didn't land my man last night, when
the theft was reported."

"When you saw the thief running with
your satchel, why didn't you call a

100

AMERICAN COOKERY

policeman?" asked the officer of the
young lady.

"I didn't see him run away with the
satchel," explained the girl. "He ran
away fast, but I didn't see the satchel.
I thought he'd put the satchel in the
cab. I Was confused. He hurried me
so! I thought he was my cousin. It
was all stupid, but with the bustle, I
didn't think of my satchel until the
horrid woman tried to make me stay.
Then I was frightened and wanted some-
body to go and catch the thief. I
thought I would know the house again,
but I didn't. But that is the man who
took my money."

"I did not take the lady's satchel!"
exclaimed Douglas. "I did put it in the
cab. But I was confused, too — a blunder
— something, your honor, a fellow can't
tell — not here." Not the threat of a
state prison would have made him tell to
the scowling official and the crowd of the
room that he mistook this gloriously
beautiful girl for Ellen of Uncle-Sam feet
and green eyes. "I can give you, sir,
the names of many persons who will tell
you this charge is absurd. Perhaps the
young lady left the satchel in the taxi.

"Unsatisfactory answers," said the
official. "You're charged with stealing
a large sum of money." He turned to the
detective. "Is the taxi driver here?"

The detective pointed to a stout young
man in the dress of a chauffeur. "First
chop record," said the detective.

The driver was questioned, and said he
saw the valise dangling from the arm of
the girl's escort as he raced away. " Why
didn't you give chase or call an officer?"
asked the magistrate.

"How could I know the fellow was a
crook? He might have been the fare's
brother or husband."

By this time Douglas was in the condi-
tion of mind which is known to those who
are branded by circumstance as thieves.
"References are no go, not in this case,"
said the official. "I'll hold you. Better
get a lawyer. The lady and chauffeur
will leave addresses with the clerk.

Next case!" And Douglas was hustled
toward the police station cell, the young
lady directing indignant glances toward
him as he entered the grated door.

During the next hour, he sat in a corner
of the cell, keeping himself as far as
possible from the other prisoners. A
phone message was sent to a lawyer
friend, who came as quickly as he could,
but whose coming seemed to Douglas to
be delayed indefinitely. The lawyer
listened to the confession of the blunder,
and he was putting Douglas through a
third degree of inquisition, trying to find
out what became of the valise, when an
attendant came to them. "A lady
wants to talk with you," said the
attendant.

Again the girl of the indignant eyes
appeared, accompanied by her cousin.
"All my cousin wants is her money,"
he said. "If she gets it, she'll withdraw
her complaint."

"You'd better settle," whispered the
lawyer to Dougias. "You left the valise
somewhere, and if a dishonest person
picked it up, we'll never see it." The
lawyer added to himself, "Holy smoke!
If I'd made that blunder, I'd nev<"r
acknowledge it to this wonder of a girl!"

"Left the valise somewhere!" the
words repeated themselves in Douglas'
mind. Could he have really taken the
valise, and did he leave it somewhere?
He was certain he did not have it when
he took the club car for the golf grounds.
Could he have left it in a seat of the
train ?

"Call up the lost property office at the
Grand Central!" he suddenly exclaimed
to the lawyer. "Ask them if somebody
hasn't turned in a small black valise to
them."

A half-hour later, a messenger from the
station hastened into the room, where
Douglas, the lawyer and the young lady
and her cousin were seated. The mes-
senger opened a package. "Is this the
valise ? " he asked. " The owner will have
to prove her property."

"It is my valise," said the young lady.

DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION

101

"Those are my initials. It's locked and
I have the key here."

A few moments later the prisoner and
the others were summoned before the
magistrate again. "I'm told the valise
was left in a Harlem train, and that the
young lady has found her money and
withdraws her complaint. I'll dismiss
you, young man, but you must explain
why you put a stranger into a taxi — that
must be cleared up."

The lawyer stepped behind the rail
and made a whispered statement to the
magistrate, who smiled broadly as he
heard it. Meantime Douglas would have
liked to have been anywhere but where
he was.

"I understand!" chuckled the magis-
trate. "Case dismissed. But, young
man, allow me to advise you that in
the future, when you meet an unknown
lady at a station, you ask her name —
it's always a wise precaution."

With his accuser and the rest of the
party, the prisoner pushed toward the
door of the station house. Near the
entrance, the jostling crowd separated
the two for a few moments from the
others. Douglas found himself close to
the girl's side. She looked up at him,

and her eyes became merry with amuse-
ment. "Your lawyer took me to one
side and told me," she said. "Cousin
Henry hasn't seen me since 1 was a little
girl. Mother arranged about the white
telltale. I've never been in New York
before, and she was afraid something
would happen to me. That' how you
made the funny mistake."

"Will you please let me call and, in a
less public place ask you to forgive me?'
pleaded Douglas.

She stopped for a moment in the
crowd, shyly holding out her hand. "I
suppose I'll have to," she said, as Douglas
clasped the cool little hand in his. "You're
a desperate character and a kidnapper,
and I dare not refuse."

The detective who gathered in Douglas
always keeps tab on his "past clients,"
as he calls them. Six months after he
rounded up Douglas, he said to the man
at the next desk, in the dingy detective
room at the station house, "There's a
marriage notice of one of my former
clients," and he pointed to the paper.
"That forgetful guy who left the star-eye
skirt's valise on the Harlem train! The
guy married the dame. I got the hunch
he would."

A Modern Saga

I write a theme, oft sung by sage,
Though laid in this, our modern age,
A Poet's love for Lady Fair,
To whom he poured his soulful prayer.

"O Maid!" he cried, "thy, hair divine
Wast webbed by fays from trapped sunshine.
The maiden smiled and shook her head,
"It cost me twenty bones," she said.

"Thy form would grace a Grecian urn,
Fair Venus' own it well might spurn."
"Oh no," sighed she, "you're wrong again,
A straight front, price, ten iron men."

Thy eyes are blue as amethyst,
Thy mouth was made but to be kissed;"
She answered in a pleasant way,
"It also eats three meals per day."

"0 Queen of Nymphs, pray marry me,
We'll live with bliss and poetry."
Said she, "I'll take you for my beau,
When you've a job that gets the dough."

The Poet left. His soul was hurt.
He said she was a shallow flirt,
The Maiden smiled behind her fan,
And straightway wed the grocery man.

— Ellen M. Ramsay-

Saving Strength in the Home

By Mary Stone O'Rourke

Director of Domestic Science, Adelphi Academy, Brooklyn

THE manufacturer of the twentieth
century considers it a financial
investment, as well as an excel-
lent economy, to equip his factory with
labor and time-saving devices, to con-
sider the health and betterment of his
employees, believing, with the twentieth
century sociologist, that better conditions
suggest better lives, that better lives
necessitate improved health and strength
of body and mind, and all produce a
higher type of individual, capable of,
perhaps, twice the endurance, and, there-
fore, labor, at the same cost.

Thanks to the achievements of some
of the master minds of this century,
machines are being made that do the
work of matchmakers and other workmen,
who were victims of "death-causing"
trades.

We hear of these triumphs of science,
the wonders and beauties of it are all
around us, but does it reach us? Do we
make application of it in our mode of
life ? Have we time to stop a moment to
feel the new life that this machine —
which seems to have caught its maker's
very mind and soul — will give the
world ?

C Of this textile, so beautifully woven and
gloriously colored, have we time to ad-
mire? Will it gladden our lives, or find
a place in our homes, just because of its
beauty?

And yet, every human being is respon-
sible for making his own part of the world
as beautiful as possible, to cause a flower
to grow where none had bloomed before,
to hang a picture that will mean some-
thing in the life of the observer. The
desire to beautify should be common to
all mankind, but it may be absorbed and
lost in the drudgery or wearied routine
of our daily duties. All the outside
world is alive, awake, interested in econ-

omy and improvement, but within our
homes economy seems to be in its infancy.
And why?

Housework is considered a drudgery,
and in most cases, sad, indeed, it is.
Intellectual interest is necessary in ac-
quiring practical, as well as ordinary,
knowledge, and nothing will aid in secur-
ing this mental state and softening the
"household drudgery" as a lively will to
perform the daily tasks in a way that will
secure the best results and save time,
motions and strength. Let us expend a
little to adopt this time-saving, small
wonder-working machine. Bring into the
house a touch of that glorious color, in
textile or painting! Systematize each
daily task, so that it may be most per-
fectly done in the shortest time, and by
utilizing least energy! Systematize —
but how?

First, locate the work. If in the bed-
room or sewing room, or a combination
of both places, an arrangement of furni-
ture, supplies, etc., that will necessitate
least "waste of motion" to clean, to put
in order, to find. Have a definitely
arranged corner for the sewing, the
machine and comfortable chair placed
where there is good light and air, the
sewing stand convenient to reach, with
all necessaries, needles, pins, thread,
buttons, scissors, handy. Sort the kinds
of work, and do as much of a kind as
possible at one sitting. Bring a little of
the modern factory speed-system into
that little corner. Stitch as much as can
then be stitched. Cut all that is to be
cut at the same time; do all the basting
without changing about, and thus avoid
loss of time due to change, and often
useless, thoughtless motion.

Or in the kitchen; study here the
placing of the fittings in their relation to
one another. Have the sink as near the

102

SAVING STRENGTH IX THE HOME

103

range as possible; the china closet near
the sink; the refrigerator, supply closet
and work-table near one another. If
possible have the refrigerator "built in,"
and so arranged that it may be iced from
the outside, and thus economize time and
labor of cleaning. It should be placed
where there is light and some circulation
of air, and when possible connected with
a separate drain.

Perhaps it is not within the reach of
all to obtain one of the new fireless-
cooker gas ranges, or the automatic elec-
tric cooker. Think of the summer
kitchen thus equipped, with snow-white
floor and bright red and green geranium
flower boxes in the windows. Yet, even
the old-time "hay box" will save, shall
I say, fuel first, worry, time and energy,
and yet afford a more savory, palatable
and, consequently, more easily digested
meal. A white opalite glass top trans-
forms the old kitchen work-table, if the
legs and frame are white enameled, into
a veritable "beauty spot," and a very
practical one! But a zinc covering saves
labor also, and looks very well. Often-
times the dishes are removed and placed
in the kitchen in disorder, thus necessi-
tating lifting again, scraping, scouring and
replacing, all wasted motions! It is
convenient in some houses, where the
sideboard is built in, to have an opening
through which dishes may be passed to
the kitchen. If a table be placed in the
kitchen at this opening, which is near the
sink, dishes may be scraped and sorted
for washing without again being moved.
Certainly there are advantages in the
use of the dish-washing machine, and the
turning of a crank in the cheaper models
is very easy. The dishes are fitted into
a rack, and when thoroughly washed, by
revolving in hot, soapy suds, rinsed in
hot water, are let stand to dry. The
sink should be easy to clean, and high
enough to save the back, when dish-wash-
ing or other work is to be done there. A
convenient high stool will rest the worker,
and prevent undue weariness before the
task is accomplished. If necessary to

keep a pail of scraps indoors, place it on a
shelf or stool, so that it can be reached
without stooping. A nice arrangement is
to have a large, covered porcelain jar on
the worktable, a temporary receptacle
for trimmings, shells, etc., and then
remove contents to pail outside.

Another economy of labor and energy
is the bread-mixer; this makes better
bread and simplifies labor. Glass jars
and bottles clearly labeled, or a set
marked with washable glass lettering,
may be purchased from chemical supply
houses. These may be filled with ready-
prepared supplies, mixed spice, whole and
ground, and, in small quantities, sifted
flour and baking powder (two level tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder to one level
cup of flour). At a glance it will be seen
when supplies are low, and the many
motions, taking down, lifting lids, closing
and setting back, will be saved.

In order to economize space in a kitchen,
it is found desirable by many to have a
small adjustable or drop shelf. This is
attached by hinges and a prop made to
hold the shelf in place when in use, and
to slip under when the shelf folds down.
It is a convenient arrangement to have
the flour and sugar barrels suspended on
pivots, or roll pins may be built into the
lower part of the cupboard. Compact
kitchen cabinets are in the market,
though several contain many superfluous
accessories. By their use work may be
done without an extra step, and, indeed,
they are labor savers. Perhaps no house-
hold art shows the character of the house-
wife as does her table service. Pre-
cision is a first requisite toward success.
Think first, then carry in on the tray all
things that relate to one another. There
are several electric devices which lighten
labor and make simple entertaining a
delight. The chafing dish, the electric
iron, the small electric grill, the coffee
percolator, all add pleasure from good
things and economize labor.

Before clearing the table have a place
in the kitchen or pantry prepared to
receive the dishes, etc., and thus save

104

AMERICAN COOKERY

strength and motion. Gather and re-
move the dishes systematically, glasses
by themselves, silver with handles to-
gether, plates of the same size in piles.

These are some of the essentials that
require quiet thought that will awaken
intellectual interest and convert the
drudgery of housekeeping into the science
and art of "home-making."

The days when it was considered
"lazy" to sit down to prepare vegetables,
or iron small pieces, are over. To have a
rocking chair in the kitchen was "a sign
of a poor housekeeper," but times have
changed, and with them the demands on
the home-maker have increased. Science
has taught us that the body, as a great
machine, is ever in need of repair, build-
ing up wasted tissues, furnishing heat and
energy — that even, in sleep, the great
throbbing, pulsating, vital work is being
accomplished — that just the fact of
existence means expended energy, in a
greater or less degree. Times have
changed!

There is a greater social demand, per-
haps more clubs and meetings, which
mean entertaining, in turn, and changes of
gowns and hats. The daily menus have
changed, demanding more careful plan-
ning to keep within the income. The
children require more and more "style"
to dress them. With a deeper knowledge
of danger, and increased population, the
perplexity of keeping a sanitary home
has grown. Good help, at moderate
wage, is almost impossible to obtain, and
so the homemaker today is often heard
to say: "I don't know where to begin;
I have so many things to do." Then the
best thing seems to be to rest — to make
use of easy chair, or couch, and thor-
oughly relax, even for ten or fifteen
minutes. Throw off the nervous tension,
with the feeling that everything will be
right and accomplished if taken quietly
and systematically. Close the eyes, let
go nerve, brain and muscle strain, and
rest.

Do this before the "hopeless" feeling
comes, before being utterly exhausted,

before being so tired that fifteen minutes
will not seem to count. Then start
again to accomplish more with less
fatigue. It is fortunate, if one can learn
to save strength before the necessity of
saving arises. Worry causes much waste
of energy.

Doing all that is possible to do should
bring great satisfaction, not striving and
unrest for what is impossible. Then, too,
a dejected physical attitude tends to
develop a dejected mental state, and
vice-versa; and psychologists say, "We
will be glad because we laugh." There-
fore, a little physical culture, when de-
jected and very tired, will often restore
energy. Stretch the body to its full height,
swing the arms straight over the head and
touch the floor with the hands. Breathe
deeply; sing a little; yes, or even dance;
listen just a moment to the birds — all
full of life; glance at the sun and sky
through the trees, and feel that "All's
right with the world." We are told that
domestic life calls for large energy, calm
nerves and fine physiques, for all possi-
bilities fail when physical strength has
waned. Housekeeping is a high art, and
it is not necessary that a woman's health
and happiness be sacrificed in doing what
is elevating and essential to the happiness
of the human race. The home is the
cradle of destinies, and it is for the woman
to express the "science of living." Upon
her success to combine the science and
art of living, making it possible and de-
lightful for others to live, depends the
ability and happiness of mankind. The
safety of the home is surely more depen-
dent on health, knowledge, refinement and
culture than on exhausted energy and
worry over unaccomplished and often
unimportant details.

With intellectual interest comes knowl-
edge, with knowledge, systematic accom-
plishment, with accomplishment, joy in
work. Then housework will no longer
be a drudgery. It will be raised by
her whose joy it is "to shape the des-
tinies of men" to the art of homemak-
ing.

Aunt Anna's Company Cake

By Ruth Fargo

H, am I too late?" The little
bride from across the street
flashed into Aunt Anna's kitchen
like a shaft of welcome sunshine. She
was a bit breathless, and stood panting
a moment with her back against the shut
door, her hands still clasping the knob.

"Late? Dear me, no," assured the
older woman placidly. "I just been
getting things together," with which she
placed two big blue mixing bowls on the
kitchen table.

" I went down to the corner with Jerry,"
explained Dorothea Dent, with a pretty
little bride-blush, "and I was poking
along as slow as slow coming back, just en-
joying out-of-doors. Then I saw Uncle
Jonas at the kitchen door. He said
he'd been knocking most all day,"
dimpling adorably, "and that you were
going to make company cake, and I was
to come over. I ran every step."

"Pshaw," deprecated Aunt Anna.
"Jonas ain't been gone more'n a minnit.
He just wanted to be saying suthin'."
serenely.

"But it's company cake? You are
going to make company cake?"

"Yes — that's what I told Jonas to
say."

"The plain kind? — with black-
berries?" eagerly.

"With blackberries," agreed Aunt
Anna. "And it's so plain I donno as a
body ought to call it 'company cake,'
by rights. I donno's they had," doubt-
fully.

"It's a good name," affirmed the
younger woman stanchly. "Everybody
likes your berry cake, and everybody
asks for the recipe. Now don't they?
— Course it's company cake!"

"Easy to make — easy's fallin' off a
log," voiced Aunt Anna.

"All the better for me," giggled
Dorothea. "I'll be more apt to make
a success of mine."

Dorothea, indeed, had depended much
on her pleasant neighbor for help along
lines dietetic, for when the little bride
had first come to the house across the
street she knew precious little about
cooking. "I've always been so busy
at something else that I never had time
to learn," she had explained to motherly
Aunt Anna, "but if you would just
show me — some." And Aunt Anna
had said, "Why, child, I'd just love to do
it. Cooking sort of comes second nature
to me, I done it so much. But, I reckon,
you'll have to come over and see. I
ain't good at telling how I do things.
Like as not I'd leave the baking powder
out'n the biscuit, or the sugar out'n the
rhubarb pie, if I depended on telling.
But I alius do it right — ■ somehow, I
seem to alius do." And Aunt Anna's
husband had grinned over the top of his
paper and asserted positively ■ — ■ nobody
supposed he was listening — "Yes, you
bet; you c'n depend on Annie's doing it
right. Annie alius could cook. That's
why I cum to marry her," composedly.
"The very idea!" had exclaimed Doro-
thea, indignantly; but Uncle Jonas, with
a satisfied chuckle, had gone back to the
reading of politics. But ever since that
day, Dorothea Dent had come over and
taken lessons in cooking from Aunt Anna,
and today it was to be company
cake.

"I got the recipe, first, that time I
visited my sister out in Oregon," said
Aunt Anna. "There they called it
'Loganberry Cake,' because they used
loganberries to make it. But I use
blackberries, or sometimes raspberries,
since I haven't got the other. I guess,
truth to say, a body could use most any
kind of cooked or canned berries."

Aunt Anna paused and looked over
her utensils.

"I guess we are all ready," she said.
Then, suiting the action to the word,

105

106

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Sift one level teaspoonful of soda with
two cups of flour. Soda and not baking
powder, because the berries are acid.
They take the same thing as buttermilk
would — soda."

Dorothea busily wrote in her blank
cook book. "Soda — " she murmured
acquiescently.

"Now in the other bowl put one cup of
sugar and one-half cup of shortening,
butter substitute I am using. And have
it warmed a little bit. It creams easier
with the sugar and quicker. When it
is creamed, add the yolk of one egg and
one whole egg, and cream some more.
Save one egg-white to make an icing
with. I'm going to put it out on this
big platter, and while the cake is baking
I'll beat up the white, fluffy and dry,
and make the icing," explained Aunt
Anna. " But coming back to our creamed
sugar and egg and shortening, add one-
half teaspoonful of ground cloves and
one level teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.
Mix well, add one cup of berries, juice
and fruit, just as it comes, and stir
well."

"Do you ever use the uncooked
berries?" questioned the little bride.

"No," said Aunt Anna. "They must
be cooked, fresh stewed and cooled, or
canned. Either one's good. Now stir
the contents of the two bowls together,
beat well and quickly, and pour into
a well-oiled loaf tin, and bake in a moder-
ate oven till done. It makes a good-
sized cake, but a body wants a good-
sized cake when company is coming. It
is sort of like a fruit cake, too," went on
Aunt Anna. "Maybe that's why so
many folks like it. Most people like
fruit cake, though some don't. And
then, too, this kind of a cake keeps well;
it don't dry out like other kinds, and I
don't want to be chained to my kitchen
when folks come, as I want to visit a bit
with. I want my cake made and put
by, and ready to use. That's why Jonas
has got to calling blackberry cake my
Company Cake."

Jerry liked it so much, the last you

sent over to us to try. Remember?"
mused the little bride.

"Men mostly do," assented Aunt
Anna, sliding her cake into a well-
heated oven, and pushing an asbestos
mat into just the right spot to set it on.
"Cake ain't near so apt to burn on the
bottom if a mat's under it," she said.
"And I do hate a cake burned on the
bottom. But sometimes they will, spite
of fate. But when that happens, I wait
till my cake is cold and then grate off
the burned part with a nutmeg grater.
It don't crumble the cake, and leaves it
looking neat and trim; and it does the
work better than anything else I ever
found. . . . Yes, just an ordinary nut-
meg grater."

Aunt Anna began putting sugar in a
pan. " One cup," she said out loud, " and
one-third cup of water. That's for the
icing. Let the sugar and water boil till
it hairs, then beat it into the whipped
egg-white, and add a little flavoring. I
like banana, but a body can use what
they like best. Jonas thinks almond is
about right."

The cake will be out of the oven about
the time you have the icing ready,"
speculated Dorothea.

"Yes," answered the older woman,
"and- the icing must go on before it
cools — before it gets hard."

Dorothea's musing smile ran into a
soft rippling laugh. "Once I made a
boiled icing first, and set it away, so it
would be all done and ready when I
wanted it," she said. "And when I
wanted it — " she laughed again. "Oh,
well, I scraped it up and sprinkled it over
a pudding. Jerry said it was as good as
candy. It wasn't really wasted, not
really."

"It is the little things that bother most
when a body ain't used to cooking,"
agreed Aunt Anna. "The things that
cook books don't alius tell about." She
took from the oven a small sample cup
cake, done and spicy smelling, and broke
it in two. "We'll try it," she said, giving
Dorothea a generous half, "and see if it's

AUNT AXXA'S COMPANY CAKE

107

■fit to eat. . . . Well, I guess I ain't left
out anything," critically.

"Isn't it good," sighed the girl who
was learning, finishing her share to the
last crumb. And then: "It makes a
real dark cake, doesn't it? That will
make the frosting look pretty against the
cut slices. White and dark color. I
do like things to look pretty."

Aunt Anna nodded. "It is a kind of
cake that slices well," she added, "and
that's something."

She began bustling about washing at
the white shining sink every dish that had
been used. Dorothea slid down from her
high stool, the high stool Aunt Anna
always kept in her kitchen, because it
was so handy to sit on when peeling
potatoes, and taking a tea-towel deftly
dried each dish.

"I know exactly where to put every-
thing away," she affirmed. "Do you
know, it never occurred to me that I
ought to wash up my cooking dishes right

away, and not leave 'em rill after lunch,
till I saw you do it. It isn't half the
work, is it? They wash so easy, and
nothing ever a bit stuck up and dried on."

"I can't bear to see a cluttered up
kitchen," said Aunt Anna. Then, " Want
to wait and see me put on the
icing? That blackberry cake is about
done."

"Sure, I do," nodded Dorothea Dent.
"I want to watch it all, start to finish.

And then I wont make a mistake

maybe I won't make a mistake," she
dimpled, "when I bake cake for Jerry
and me. And sometime, maybe, I'll
bake one for company . . . for company
. . . or . . ." she paused. "Maybe I
can bake one for Jerry's mother . . .
she's coming to see us next month. And
she's the darlingest mother-in-law a
lucky girl ever had! You'll like her,
Aunt Anna. And I . . . oh, I'm so
anxious to show her I've learned to cook!
Even ' Company Cake!' "

Oh Come Away!

Come with me to distant mountain where the

ozone breezes bide,
Health producing, health prolonging, vigor

teeming mountain side,
"Where the forest folk are gently nodding assent

soft and low,
Pine and balsam, birch and cedar rock their

branches to and fro.

Come, they beckon from the city, from the town
and country side,

Pleasure seekers of all ages, for each one they can
provide

Happy innocent diversions 'neath their fragrant,
balmy shade,

And upon their rippling waters where the moon-
beams dance and hide.

There'll be wading for the children, healthy

swimming for the rest,
Gumming, hiking, mountain climbing that will

every muscle test,
Sailing, rowing, motorboating and canoeing on

the lake,
Fishing in the trickling streamlets, picking berries

till you ache.

You'll develop nerveless muscle, have a twinkle

in your eye,
Life will have a deeper meaning, as its lessons

you apply;
You'll grow plumper and look younger, tan and

freckle, blush with pride,
As you bless the health producing, vigor-teeming

mountain side.

Chorus
O come away, 0 come away, O come away today,
Impulse obey to laugh and play, be jolly, blithe

and gay!
The summer tide will quickly glide, the sun will

southward ride,
So come away, to the hills away, to the restful

mountain side.

— Caroline L. Sumner.

Traveling Companions

By May Belle Brooks

UST what shall I take along?" is
the query that everybody who can
afford a vacation is asking.

" Plenty of safety pins and a fly
swatter!" somebody jocularly suggests,
and those of us who have suffered from
an invasion of the pests in summer camp
or open farm house, or when trying to
be comfortable in a hammock while just
one fly buzzed around, will ratify the
second item, even though a supply of
hangers and efficient mending facilities
render the former less important.

However, those safety pins will come
in mighty handy. Attached to a strip
of ribbon they will give a neat arrange-
ment for hanging the clothes in the
sleeper. A large one, fastened to the
inside of purse or bag is an accessible
place to hang one's keys. No matter
how crowded it is with other things
you'll know just where to put your fingers
on your key.

Take crepe de chine, cotton crepe or
knit underwear and only one change
will be necessary, since it may be so
easily washed out and dried overnight
and needs no ironing. If you are to take
a sleeper, a black batiste nightgown will
be an inconspicuous choice and a dark-
colored kimona will be in better taste,
also. Some fastidious women always
carry a neat black boudoir cap to wear
on the train during the day, as this keeps
the hair from disarray and excludes the
dust.

A pair of dark goggles will do much to
prevent eye-strain and consequent head-
ache, and will protect the eyes from
cinders. One ingenuous woman, whose
slogan is comfort, has made a brown
linen cushion-cover with stout handles
and a pocket and snaps sewed along the
opening. Into this she stuffs hosiery,
soft underwear and such crushable cloth-
ing, before consigning it to the suit case,

and when a pillow is wanted for the nap
on the train, there it is, all clean and cozy
and taking up scarcely any room at all.
A newspaper spread over the seat proves
a sanitary measure and saves carrying a
towel for the purpose. And if her ride
is to be lengthy, she slips off her street
shoes and dons a pair of soft house slip-
pers. It's such a restful practice. Also,
being subject to neuralgia, she sees that
a baby's hot water bottle is always in her
bag, together with one of those tiny
stoves that burn solidified alcohol,
upon which to heat the water. This
would be a fine idea for the mother travel-
ing with a young child.

For brushing the hat or coat, a small
new nail brush may be packed with the
other toilet articles, and a Pullman apron
will hold them in secure readiness. This
is just an oblong piece of washable ma-
terial covered with pockets and finished
with a belt. One or two of the pockets
might be formed of a discarded pair of
dress shields, or lined with waterproof
cloth, to hold damp articles. A dis-
carded hot water bag, cut envelope shape,
makes an excellent waterproof case for
washcloths or rubbers.

Small squares of mosquito net, or
pieces of an old lace curtain, make excel-
lent wash cloths, as they dry almost in-
stantly, or may be thrown away with no
twinge of conscience. They are rough
enough for any cleansing purpose, and
take up less room than the usual kind.
Better yet is the paper towel. A small
tube of shaving cream or a little book of
soap leaves is more convenient than the
cake of soap, but if you do favor the
latter, a tiny piece in a doll's soap case
will answer every purpose.

There is a rubber tooth brush and nail
brush that is best for traveling, but in
case you still cling to the old order, a
small shaker of powdered borax should

108

TRAVELING COMPANIONS

109

be taken along to sprinkle over any wet
articles. It keeps them sweet.

"Never carry a valuable watch on the
train," advised my traveling friend. "I
always pack a cheap Ingersoll in my bag.
It keeps good time and I don't have to
worry about its safety. If obliged to
carry jewelry I put it in a chamois bag
about my neck, and to prevent the pieces
scratching each other, I have tacked the
bag here and there to form little pockets
for each jewel. At night I tie my valua-
bles around my ankle so they will not
disturb my sleep. A hard lump around
the neck, that persists in getting under
the side or back, is not conducive to
slumber.

"To carry my extra money, I make
a bag the size and shape of a bill and tie
it around my neck, pinning it to the under
side of my waist, where it is accessible,
yet safe. Another good place for valua-
bles is in a little pocket sewed to the top
of the stocking and fastened with strong
snaps or hooks and eyes.

"How to keep my wraps presentable
on a long journey was always a problem
to me until I started my plan of including
a large paper bag and a thick newspaper
in my luggage. The latter I roll tightly
•and wrap a cord about the middle by
which to hang it. This makes a hanger
for my coat and my hat is placed in the
paper bag and pinned to the coat.

"If you've ever snagged your dress at
an inopportune moment, you'll appre-
ciate the package of court plaster I
always carry in my pocket book. It
mends a tear in a twinkling. Another
thing that may not seem a necessity until

you've tried it, is a little handy box that
fits snugly into my traveling bag. It
contains a tube of paste, which is mighty
handy to eke out the mucilage on a poor
postage stamp or envelope, or to do up a
parcel to carry or to mail; a piece of
twine, an indelible pencil, a few shipping
tags, stamps, a roll of adhesive plaster
and of antiseptic gauze, tiny bottle of
iodine, a needleful of white thread and
one of black, a detachable wooden handle
for carrying heavy parcels; and I'm
equipped for almost any emergency.
There is also an elastic band with hook
and eye at the ends to clasp beneath the
hips so that I can pull up my dress under
a raincoat, leaving the hands free for
luggage.

"About my neck I hang a metal iden-
tification tag with my name punched
thereon. It's the safest way.

"Do you know," concluded this fore-
sighted woman, " I can go anywhere on a
few minutes' notice. The secret lies in
an emergency drawer for traveling.
There I keep an outfit always in readi-
ness and never drawn upon for other
purposes. It contains one complete
change of underwear, two waists, a
tailored one and a dressy one, six hand-
kerchiefs, a motor veil, a pair of white
washable gloves, a lightweight serge
coat that may be worn over my suit, if
necessary, and a satin brim that I can
attach to my severe little traveling hat
and lo, I have a dress hat suitable for
any occasion. I don't have to waste
time standing around wondering what to
pack, for I've thought it all out, once and
for all."

A Theory

What thought took form in this white rose?

The answer to your question goes

To deeps whence came the star, the sod;

Perhaps it is a word of God,

Spelled in a way men understand,

A dream come true within the hand.

The mystic sight of seers may go

Behind the petals' clustered snow;

To me there is a meaning plain,

And other searching is in vain:

This rose was wrought by Spring's shy art,

For you to wear upon your heart!

— Arthur Wallace Peach.

110

AMERICAN COOKERY

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and where, we are confident, full appre-
ciation of its timely and helpful influence
would be emphatic and certain.

For obvious reasons the circulation of
American Cookery is dependent largely
upon its own distinctive merits and the
thoughtful recommendations of its stead-
fast readers and friends. The time is
now fit and opportune to enlarge our list

of subscribers. To accomplish this our
incentive is not wanting; any voluntary *
consideration of our needs on the part
of our readers, and every phase of kindly
co-operation in our behalf, will be most
gratefully received.

PEACE AND PRICES

THE war is over, but the war-prices
of foodstuffs and commodities have
not declined. In some cases they have
been advanced. The so-called laborer
combines and strikes for higher pay.
The government has encouraged him in
his demands and he succeeds. Imme-
diately the cost of foods and products
in which labor is involved goes up; the
cycle is completed and the operation
must be repeated. What will be the
outcome, the end of all this? It seems
plain to us we are not beginning aright.
The cost of every article of food and
merchandise is abnormal. There can be
no stability or wide-spread prosperity
in business until we face the other way
and the price of labor, foodstuffs and
manufactured goods are all gradually
reduced to a normal basis. Profiteering
of every sort has become odious. The
dealer who attempts to raise the price
of anything, at the present time, should ■
be boycotted at once. And along with
other things the price of labor must be
reduced. W7ho is worthy, or has earned
exemption from the general rule? Can
organized labor claim to do the work of
the world, while the rest of mankind live
as they may and pay the bills through
taxation? It is very plain that under
existing prices both of labor and mater-
ials many and varied kinds of industries
cannot be conducted save at great loss.
The publishing business, for instance, is
only one of them. A first condition of
lasting prosperity is that everybody, not
a few, be busily engaged at a fair and
honest wage. Is the present condition
of affairs in these United States credi-
table to a nation that claims to be free
and democratic in its government? But
let us be optimistic and hope that with

EDITORIALS

111

returning peace and abundant new crops,
better times are coming. May peace
and plenty be forerunners of prosperity
and contentment!

BEWARE THE HOUSEWIFE

"hpHERE," said a housewife proudly,
JL looking at sixteen glasses of a
home-made table-sweet, "they cost six
and a half cents a glass, and they're
selling in some shops at three dollars a
dozen." In such justifiable boasts as
this lies the doom of the food-profiteer.
Man-made laws have often failed to
reach him, have sometimes reached,
instead, his honest competitor, and man-
and-woman-made laws may be no more
effective, but the American housewife,
once thoroughly aroused, will bring about
what the most cumbrously elaborate
penal legislation, in the premises, has
failed to accomplish.

Food-profiteers seem to forget that the
things which they do wholesale in huge
factories were once mere household arts,
practiced in every domestic kitchen.
Not one of these is an art lost beyond
recovery, and labor-saving machinery and
processes adapted to domestic use have,
within recent years, gone far to close the
gap between the cost of production in
factories and in the home. If the profiteer
will not be good, the American house-
wife will snap her fingers at him, and
return to the arts of her grandmother.
More than this, housekeepers, under the
pressure of recent conditions, have learned
the trick of co-operation. Not every
village home need maintain its lye-vat,
its smokehouse, its preserving kitchen.
Fish, flesh, fowl, fruits, vegetables, syrups,
all can be made at home, and without
the killing labor that exhausted the
housewife of two generations ago. Soap,
candles, and half a dozen other household
necessaries and conveniences are within
the scope of the domestic arts. Already
cheap American dyes are freely used in
the homes, urban and rural, and in
hundreds of thousands of American
kitchens faded recipes in the handwriting

of an earlier generation have been type-
written by brisk modern women.

At every economic crisis, after war or
financial panic accompanied with indus-
trial depression, the women of America
have nobly come to the rescue. What
they did during and after the revolution-
ary war and the war of secession is a
matter of history. When the world-war
came on, American women of the com-
fortable classes had long been accus-
tomed to the convenient luxury of
factory-made foods, while the poor of
great cities had accepted the conditions
imposed by tenement-house life, and
neglected the household arts with their
luckier sisters. Thousands of the latter,
spurred to patriotic endeavor by the
exigencies of the world-war, turned to
these almost forgotten arts, practised
them with intelligence, added to their
labors voluntarv self-denials, and cheer-
fully taught all these things to such of the
poor as were willing to learn. Whatever
luxury and easy money may have done
for the men of America, it had not
enervated all of the women.

Now, as ever, the economic fate of the
country lies in the hands of the American
housewife. Fortunately many great cap-
tains of industry realize that she must
be considered, renounce the privilege of
profiteering at her expense. Meanwhile,
the unrepentant profiteer, whether em-
ployer or wage-earner, should remember
that the American mother, who would
cheerfully sacrifice her husband for the
good of her children, will not be tender of
mere outsiders whom she suspects of
taking bread from the mouths of her
little ones. Truly, in this matter "the
female of the species is more deadly than
the male." — The Boston Herald.

CLEAN OUT THE OLD: LET IN
THE NEW

CLEANING UP" is a necessary,
though often an unpleasant pro-
cess. After it is over we rejoice in its
benefits, and wonder why we made such a
fuss over the incident discomforts o*

112

AMERICAN COOKERY

ridding our premises of dirt and rubbish.
But cleaning up should not be confined to
our external surroundings. We need to
clean house, mentally, occasionally, and
were it done oftener we should all be
saner and happier.

Think a moment. Isn't your mind
cluttered up with mental rubbish, sense-
less prejudices, petty spites, ancient
grudges, and bits of hateful gossip which
you should have "dumped" long ago?
May not your mental processes be clogged
and your mental alertness be dulled,
because you cling to outworn theories,
superstitions, and creeds, and will not
discard baneful ideas and senseless hate?
Do you harbor ill feelings against your
neighbors, and may you not, by your
accumulation of meannesses and un-
worthy efforts to "get even," make it
impossible for new ideas or thoughts to
find room in your mind?

If you feel that you love nobody and
nobody loves you; if you imagine that
you are not getting a square deal, and
that luck is against you, you need a
mental clean-up. Let the sunshine and
fresh air into your dusty, cluttered brain,
throw out the rubbish and make room for
new thoughts, new points of view, new
ideas. They will come trooping if there
is room to take them in. The only way
to acquire fresh mental furniture and
furnishings is to clean out junk. Why
let it cumber you longer? — a. j. s.

THE FINE ART OF DOING
WITHOUT

GOING without the good things of
life is considered a hardship. Too
little thought is given to the blessings.
Everybody struggles to acquire material
advantages, thinking that they spell
happiness, but happiness not infrequently
lies in practicing the fine art of doing
without.

Having everything you want in the
world conduces to arrogance, selfishness,
snobbishness and boorishness. Doing
with little, when necessary, and doing it
with dignity and a cheerful spirit, does

much to develop nobility of character
and moral fibre. Often it is' all that is
needed to transform a commonplace,
sordid soul into one of sweetness and
light.

Few people voluntarily attempt to see
with how little they can get along, but
when necessity demands, or, when, in
order to attain a greater good, it seems
desirable, it is surprising to note how
little one needs, and how the moral
calibre is strengthened and developed by
self-denial. Self-denial, practiced merely
from compulsion and with rebellion of
heart is detrimental. Undertaken in the
light of an adventure, and with cheer-
fulness, it will yield large returns. Once
learn to do with little, and not feel abused,
and you have laid the foundation for
personal freedom and happiness. Not
to be dependent upon material cir-
cumstances is to be independent of the
caprices of Fate, and rich, although poor.
Therefore, when circumstances cause
you to practice economy and to do with-
out "necessities," suppose you see how
much fun you can extract from the situa-
tion, and how well you can manage.

a. j. s.

The Poet: "Have you read that poem
on the League of Nations I left the other
day?"

The Editor: "I have just finished
reading it. By the way, what's your
opinion regarding the League of Nations ?"
— Life .

There Are No Bounds

" When I awake I am still with Thee"
Still, still with Thee, when roll earth's deepening
shadows
Into the blackness of the midnight hour;
Full well I know no 'whelming deeps of darkness
Can hide from me Thy presence and Thy
power.

Still, still with Thee, though now my days
declining
Have passed the Psalmist's bound of mortal
span;
In Faith's clear gaze there are no bounds con-
fining
The life immortal shared with Thee by man.
— Charles A. Humphreys.

A CENTERPIECE OF FRUIT

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Beefsteak-and-Kidney Pie

The amount of filling depends on the
size of the pie dish, or, if individual pies
are made, on their number. For an
ordinary pie use one pound of round
steak and four or five lamb kidneys.
Cut the steak into pieces about an inch
and a half long and wide. Cut the kid-
neys through the center and remove all
the white portion, and also the center.
Throw the trimmings away and put the
other pieces into cold, slightly salted
water. Allow this to come to the boil
very slowly. As soon as the boiling point
is reached, drain off the water, again add
cold, salted water and bring once more
to the boil. Drain, rinse well and add the
kidneys to the steak.

In the meantime, roll the pieces of steak
in flour and brown nicely in a sauce pan.
Cover with water; add salt, pepper, a
tiny pinch of sweet majoram, summer
savory and a few grains of nutmeg.
Simmer until the meat is tender. Add
any seasoning needed, at the last, and

also a little softened gelatine. If pre-
ferred, thicken the gravy with two table-
spoonfuls of butter, creamed with one and
a half tablespoonfuls of flour. Pour the
meat and kidneys into the pie dish with
gravy enough to cover, and then add the
pastry top. Some add potatoes and
slices of hard-cooked eggs. These pies
are excellent, either cold or hot, and are
fine for picnics, home luncheons, or
Sunday dinners.

Pastry for Meat Pies

Cream together one and a half table-
spoonfuls of lard and the same amount
of butter. Cut this into one cup of flour,
into which has been mixed one-half a
teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful
of baking powder. Use just enough cold
milk to cause the particles to stick to-
gether when pressed. Let the pastry
extend to the edge of the wide flat brim,
which is the peculiar feature of an Eng-
lish meat pie dish. This dish is placed
on the table and the pie is served from
that.

113

114

AMERICAN COOKERY

Scalloped Egg Plant

Cut the egg plant into slices about one-
half inch thick, pare and put in strong
salt and water under a weight for half
an hour. Rinse and wipe dry. Butter
a baking dish and arrange pieces of egg
plant on the bottom, sprinkle well with
grated cheese, salt and pepper. Repeat
until the dish is full, ending with the
cheese. Have ready a rather thin tomato
sauce, nicely seasoned and pour this over
the layers as they are being arranged.
Bake in a moderate oven about three-
quarters of an hour, or until the egg
plant is tender.

all pieces nicely with salad dressing. It
is a good idea to add the celery and
cucumbers the last thing before serving
in order to keep them crisp.

Dressing for Potato Salad

Mix together one teaspoonful of salt,
one teaspoonful of mustard; beat four
eggs till thick, add the salt and mustard
and two cups of vinegar. Cook over
water until it becomes a smooth custard.
When cold add one cup of whipped cream.

Stewed Green Corn with Peppers

Use either canned corn or green corn
cut from the cob. Drop three table-

BEEFSTEAK-AND-KIDNEY PIE

Potato Salad, Summer Style

:•; Put into a pot twelve medium-sized
potatoes and three fresh eggs. Cover
with water and cook till the potatoes are
just tender. Drain and allow to cool.
When ready to make the salad, remove
the skins from the potatoes and free the
eggs from shells. Dice the potatoes and
pare two fairly large cucumbers and slice
thin; blanch one cup of almonds and
cut into thirds. Have the white heart
stalks of celery in ice water for half an
hour, wipe dry and cut into thin strips
and then into short lengths. Cut the
eggs into fourths, lengthwise, and then
into slices. Mix all together and coat

spoonfuls of butter into a sauce pan.
Add one heaping tablespoonful of sweet
green pepper, minced fine and two paper-
thin slices of garlic. Allow them to
simmer for ten minutes, or until very
soft. Add the corn and a fourth of a
teaspoonful of salt; stir well and cook for
ten minutes. Add one-fourth a cup of
cream. If too dry, add more cream.
Plain milk and a teaspoonful of butter
may be used instead of the cream.

Sauteed Vegetable Marrow

Select young marrows and cut into
half-inch slices. Pare, season with salt,
pepper and dredge with flour. Have
ready plenty of hot fat, either fresh bacon

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

115

fat, dripping or a mixture of butter and
substitute fat. Have the mixture hot to
start, and as soon as a slight crust is
formed on one side turn the slices.
Reduce the temperature and finish frying.
When tender drain on soft brown paper
and serve without sauce. The slices
should be hot, crisp and dry.

Baked Apple Dumplings

Select tart apples that do not lose their
shape at once in cooking. Pare evenly
and remove the cores without cutting the
apples in pieces. Put the apples into
water enough to float them; add a cup of
sugar and cook until almost done. Re-
move with a skimmer and cook the syrup
down till thick. Place each apple on a
square of pastry. Fill the cores with
butter, lemon juice and sugar, and drop
the syrup over the apples. Moisten the
tips of the pastry squares and press to-
gether over the top of the apple. Put on
a baking tin and bake a nice brown.
Serve with cream just sour enough to
have become thick, into which has been
stirred powdered sugar; dust nutmeg
over the top.

Pershing Salad

Use only firm, thoroughly ripened fruit.

Select large, well-shaped red tomatoes
and firm, ripe, yellow peaches. Remove
the skin of the tomato without scalding
and take out the hard stem portion with
a neat, shallow cut. Hold the tomato,
stem end up, in the palm of the left hand,
and with a sharp knife make two cuts at
right angles through the center of the

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS

tomato and about three-fourths of the
way through. Have ready crisp, white
heart-leaves of lettuce and place the
tomato on these so that the sections
separate slightly like the petals of a
flower. If necessary deepen the cuts a
little to secure this effect.

Pare the peach and, unless very large,
cut into quarters. Fill the spaces be-
tween the tomato petals with salad
dressing, but be careful that none of it
gets on the petal?. Place the peach
petals on the part covered by the dressing,
turning the seed side underneath, drop
a ring of salad dressing around the base
of the tomato and cover this with thin
slices of peaches placed overlapping.
Pipe a star of whipped cream at the
center top and a thin line down each
section of peach. Salad dressing may be
substituted for the cream. Arrange in
individual servings.

Dressing for Pershing Salad

Mix together one tablespoonful of salt,
one tablespoonful of sugar, one-fourth a
teaspoonful of mustard, one-eighth a

PERSHING SALAD

116

AMERICAN COOKERY

teaspoonful of curry powder. Beat one
whole egg, or two yolks very light; add
the juice of one large lemon. Beat five
minutes and then add the dry ingredients.
Beat for three minutes. Add three-
fourths a cup of Carnation milk.
Cook in a double boiler until quite thick,
stirring constantly. This dressing can
be cooked much longer than if made with
ordinary milk and will have more body,
but care must be taken not to over-cook
and consequently curdle.

Paring a Tomato Without Scalding

Use a small sharp vegetable knife.
Press the back of the blade along the
tomato, moving from the top to the stem

turning often, until each apple is tender.
Set them carefully into a baking pan.
Fill the centers with one-third a cup,
each, of raisins and nuts, chopped fine,
dredge on a little granulated sugar and
let bake in a moderate oven till glazed;
serve with the syrup poured around them.

Pancakes

Beat up the yolks of two eggs, one
tablespoonful, scant, of salad oil, three
tablespoonfuls of water, one and a half
tablespoonfuls of flour, and one-fourth
teaspoonful of salt. Beat this paste
about ten minutes. If the batter is too
thick, add a little water until its con-
sistency is satisfactory. When right it

APPLES STUFFED WITH NUTS AND RAISINS

end or round and round. The motion is
something like scraping, but not so vig-
orous, as the skin is not broken. Care
must be taken that the strokes touch or
overlap a trifle. When all the surface
has been gone over in this way, slip the
point of the knife under the skin and
pull gently, removing it easily. This
method is helpful when tomatoes have
been chilled and must be used at once.

Apples Stuffed with Nuts
and Raisins

Core about five apples, making sure to
take out every bit of the core. Remove
the paring from about one-half of the
apple. For six put half a cup of sugar
and half a cup of water into a sauce pan;
into this set the apples and let cook,

should cover the spoon when lifted out of
it with a coating about the eighth of an
inch thick. Beat the whites of the two
eggs to a stiff froth; beat this into your
batter at time of using. If preferred,
the batter may be baked in small squares,
or in other shapes.

Spiced Pepper

(Wyvern)
Take one-fourth an ounce, each, of
dried thyme leaves, marjoram leaves,
and summer or winter savory leaves, one-
half ounce nutmeg, grated, one-half
ounce cloves, one-fourth ounce, each,
whole black or Nepaul pepper, and pound
in a mortar, and when ground to powder
pass it through a fine sieve and cork close
in a bottle.

SEASONABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

117

Spiced Salt

Mix one ounce of the above with four
of the salt and store in a close bottle.
The spiced pepper is the more valuable
because the salt draws moisture.

Cheese Ramequins

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a
saucepan with one cup of boiling water,
half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and black
pepper, when it boils add four teaspoon-
fuls of potato flour. Stir over the fire
four minutes, and then mix with it half
a cup of grated cheese and beat in two
eggs, one after the other. Set the paste
in pieces on a baking pan, a spoonful in
a place; flatten them slightly, brush
them over with beaten egg, bake in an
oven hotter at the bottom than at the
top; serve on a napkin, very hot. A
green salad and bread should accompany
the ramequins.

Eggs, Swiss Style

Choose a shallow pie-dish, and butter
it liberally. Pour over the bottom of the
dish a layer of cream a quarter of an inch
deep, over that shake a layer of grated
cheese a quarter of an inch deep. When
the cheese and cream have united take
out the dish and without crowding,
break into the cream as many eggs as
will well cover it. Take great pains that
no yolk of egg be broken. Shake over
them a little black pepper and salt, and
gently pour a little more cream over the
surface. Finish with a little grated
cheese. Return to the oven to set the
eggs. Do not let them get too hard.

For a change set a layer of previously
boiled macaroni, spaghetti or noodles, in
the dish, first of all, then finish in the
same manner as above.

Eggs au Gratin

Butter a shallow baking dish, first
rubbing it over with the cut side of an
onion; line it with macaroni, cooked in
milk, pour over it a cup of white sauce
in which you have melted some grated
cheese. Over this set a layer of hard-
cooked eggs, neatly sliced and an anchovy,
fine-chopped, over the eggs. Sprinkle on
pepper and salt, or a little of the spiced
salt, given on another page. Mix three-
fourths a cup, each, of sifted bread or
cracker crumbs, and grated cheese with
one-fourth a cup of melted butter and
bake until the top of the dish is a golden
brown.

Half-Jellied Fruit

Cook half a cup of tapioca in a pint of
boiling water until transparent; add such
fruit as is convenient, a few strawberries,
one banana, sliced thin, three or four
slices of pineapple, cut in small pieces,
an orange, in small bits, with its juice, a
little pineapple juice may replace part of
the water, and a tablespoonful or more
of fruit-jelly may be added; add the
juice of half or a whole lemon, and a little
sugar, if needed, and set aside in a cool
place; serve in saucers, a spoonful in each,
with whipped cream above.

Stuffed Eggs for Buffet Supper
or Picnics

Put six eggs over the fire in a hot dish
with boiling water to cover the eggs.

F.GCS SWISS STYLE

118

AMERICAN COOKERY

Let them stand, covered, where the water
will not boil, but keep hot for half an
hour, then draw the dish forward and
let the eggs actually boil one minute to
harden them on the outside. When cold,
remove the shells, and, with a knife
rubbed in butter, divide each egg in half,
slicing a little piece off the rounded ends,
that each half may set upright on a dish.
Pick out the yolks, pound them with
butter in a mortar, add fine-minced
olives, capers, anchovies, grated ham,
chicken, tongue or a chicken liver; pound
till very smooth, season with spiced
pepper. Spread each piece of white
(using a silver knife) with the force-

ounces of fresh butter and four of fine
white crumbs; pound all together in a
mortar, pass through a wire sieve and
season the puree with salt and pepper to
taste (one teaspoonful and a half about).
Moisten it with a cup of sauce made
of one cup, each, cream and chicken
broth and two eggs, well beaten. Line
a pie-tin or charlotte mold with a thin
layer of pastry; add a layer of the force-
meat, then a layer of salmon an inch
thick, continuing till the mold is filled.
Over the top set a layer of flaky or puff
paste, brush it over with white of egg, and
bake the pie slowly. When cooked and
nearly cold, pour in through a hole made

COMPANY CAKE, FOR RECIPE IN DETAIL SEE PAGES 105 AND 106

meat, giving the piece of white a convex
shape. Fry a little square of bread for
each one, as for canapes, and set an egg
on each. Set them on a shallow au
gratin dish, slightly buttered, pour a little
melted butter over each egg and bake
five minutes. Sprinkle rather large bread
crumbs, browned in the oven over the
whole; serve for buffet supper; for
picnics serve cold.

Salmon Pie

(To Be Eaten Cold)
Cut one pound of choice salmon in
small filets, pour over them some luke-
warm water and let simmer about four
minutes, then skim from the water.
Make three-fourths of a pound of force-
meat, use half a pound of halibut, four

in the top, a cup of broth made from
the bones and trimmings of the fish,
reduced quite thick by long cooking, and
a cup of rich chicken broth, seasoned
with shallot, carrot and thyme and re-
duced by boiling. This is to be eaten cold.

Dainty White Cake

Two-thirds a cup of butter, one and
a half cups of sugar, two cups of flour,
two-thirds a cup of milk, two teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of
lemon and the whites of three eggs,
beaten stiff.

Peach Tarts

Make a crust of one cup of ice-cold
flour, one-third a cup of butter and some
substitute fat, creamed together (only

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIP1 -.>

119

one-third a cup of the combination), one-
half teaspoonful of salt, and just enough
ice water to make the mixture hold
together. Line small tart tins, fill with
dry rice and bake carefully. Pare and
halve ripe peaches and put in just enough
water to cook. As soon as the part that
was next the seed begins to look soft,
remove the fruit. Add as much sugar
as is needed to sweeten the tarts and also
cornstarch, moistened in cold water,
allowing one tablespoonful to a cup of
juice; boil five minutes; add the juice
of half a lemon and allow to cool. Re-
move the rice from the cases, fill with
fruit and cover with meringue; brown
in the oven.

Tea Dainties

Two cups of corn flakes, one-half cup
of sugar, one cup of cocoanut, either
fresh or preserved, one egg, well beaten
and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Drop in
teaspoonfuls, allowing them to remain
uneven. Bake in a moderate oven to a
delicate brown. These may be varied
indefinitely by substituting nuts and
various dry cereals for that given.

One-Two-Three Dessert

Make any good sponge cake and bake
in a sheet about an inch thick. Cut into
rounds or oblongs. Make a lemon jelly

PEACH TARTS

fruit dessert, using fresh pineapple and
cherries if possible, as well as other fruit.
Prepare strips of stiff, glazed paper, wide
enough to reach an inch above the cake
rounds. Pin this around the cake and
fasten. As soon as the jelly begins to
stiffen drop it on to the cake as high as
the paper collar. Set in the ice box till
serving time. \\ hen needed, remove the
paper and pile sweetened whipped cream
on top of each round.

Hot Water Sponge Cake

Beat the yolks of four eggs thoroughly;
add one and a half cups of powdered sugar
and cream well. Add the whites, well
beaten, one and a half cups of flour, in
which has been stirred two teaspoonfuls
of baking powder and a pinch of salt.
Lastly, add four tablespoonfuls of boiling
water; bake in slow oven.

Orange Sherbet

The quantities given make one quart.

OXE-TWO-THREE DESSERT

120

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cook together for ten minutes one-half
cup of water and one cup of sugar.
Soften one tablespoonful of gelatine in
two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Pour
three-fourths of the hot syrup on to the
gelatine. Add the juice of one orange
and one lemon. Pack the freezer with
ice and salt. Pour into the freezer one-
half cup of "top milk" and let it get cold.
After ten minutes add the fruit mixture
and put in the dasher. Turn till mushy
then add the whites of two eggs, beaten
stiff, and the rest of the syrup which has
been cooked to a thread; finish freezing.

Hot Weather Drinks

Hot weather demands the "something
different" in drinks, and the wise house
mother will keep something of the kind
in the ice box constantly. The most
satisfying drinks are really simple, as
far as ingredients are concerned. It is
the combination of flavors that stamps
the maker as an artist or the reverse.
Lemonade should be tart, neither too
sweet nor too sharp. All drinks should
be ice cold, and nothing is more attractive
than the addition of ice pounded to a
snow in a stout canvas bag.

Mint Punch

Wash a quart of spearmint leaves well,

dry by shaking and then mash till soft.
Cover with boiling water and let stand
ten minutes. Strain and set, covered, in
the ice box. At serving time add one
cup of grape juice and one of red rasp-
berry juice. Sweeten to taste and add
as much lemon juice as is needed to bring
out and combine the flavors. Stick a
tiny sprig of mint in each glass.

Tea Punch

Make a strong tea, but let it steep only
four minutes, otherwise it will become
cloudy. Add one-third as much lemon
juice as tea, with sugar to sweeten. Keep
very cold and when serving add one
bottle of ginger ale.

Lemonade

The best lemonade is made from pre-
pared syrup, in the proportion of one cup,
each, of water and sugar boiled for ten
minutes. A thin shaving of the yellow
rind is an improvement. When the
syrup is cold, add the juice of four lemons
and allow two tablespoonfuls of the
mixture to one glass of water.

Iced Coffee with Orange

To one quart of strong cold coffee^add
one cup of sweetened orange juice. Drop
a tablespoonful of powdered ice in each
glass and top with whipped cream.

HOT WEATHER DRINKS

Menus for One Week in August

Breakfast

Cantaloupe

Cream Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Cold Beefsteak and Kidney Pie

New Potatoes and Peas, Creamed Together

Heart Leaves of Lettuce, French Dressing

Iced Coffee, Whipped Cream

Sliced Peaches

Supper

Potato Salad, Summer Style

Bread and Butter Sandwiches

Cocoanut Dainties

Tea

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat and Stewed Prunes

Coffee

Poached Eggs
Buttered Toast

Cocoa

Luncheon

Fish Chowder

Cucumber-and-Tomato Salad

Toasted, Buttered Crackers

Tea

Dinner

Cream of Tomato Soup

Irish Stew

Brussels Sprouts

Baked New Potatoes

Breakfast

Puffed Rice, Top Milk

Shirred Eggs

Blueberry Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Parsnip Soup

Brown Bread and Butter

Jelly Roll, Whipped Cream

Tea

Dinner

Baked Veal Cutlet, Brown Pan Gravy

Buttered Beets

Browned Potatoes

Tomato Salad

Baked Apple Dumplings

Breakfast

Watermelon
Oat Meal Bread and Butter

Bacon and Eggs
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cold Corned Beef
Pickled Beets «'
Small New Potatoes, Creamed
Tea

Dinner

Cream of Carrot Soup

Roast Chicken with Dressing

Asparagus, Mousselaine Sauce

Mashed Potatoes

Lettuce Salad
Peach Shortcake

Breakfast

Ripe Pears

Fish Balls

Corn Meal Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Green^Pea^Soup, Canadian

Cucumber-and-Lettuce Salad

Hot Rolls

Tea

Dinner

Roast Lamb, Mint'Sauce

Mashed Potatoes

Green Peas

Lemon Pie

Breakfast

Ripe Red Plums

Corned Beef Hash

Parker House Rolls

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Vegetable Soup

Rye Meal Muffins

Apple Pie

Tea

Dinner

Clear Tomato Soup

Meat Loaf

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce

Browned New Potatoes

Cherry Pie

Breakfast

Sliced Peaches

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Creamed Eggs

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Chicken Souffle
Asparagus Salad
Fresh Gingerbread
Tea

121

-
O

-
x

a
-

O
>

I— I

Dinner

Macaroni Pudding,

Tomato Sauce
Buttered Wax Beans
Mixed Vegetable Salad
Blackberry Sponge

<
Q

O
2

W
P

<
Q

P
H
<3

Menus for Institutional Cooking

ONE WEEK IN AUGUST

Breakfast

Wheatena, Top Milk

Graham Rolls

Blueberries

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Hamburg Steak

Mashed Potatoes

Shelled Beans

Sliced Tomatoes

Tapioca Cream

Coffee

Supper

Lettuce-Apple-Celery Salad
Rye Bread and Butter
Blackberries
Cookies Cocoa

Breakfast

Hominy Grits, Top Milk

Breakfast Corncake

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Lamb-and-Potato Hash

Egg Plant, Scalloped

Lettuce Salad

Apple Pie

Cheese

Supper

Cream of Corn Soup

Crackers

Cottage Cheese

Berries Gingerbread

Tea

O
>

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk
Small Individual Omelets

Toast
Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Shoulder of Veal, Boiled cut and Fried

Scalloped Potatoes

New Beets

Carrots Glace

Poor Man's Rice Pudding

Supper

Stewed Lima Beans (fresh)

Graham Bread and Butter

Cake for 75

New Apple Sauce

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Top Milk
Scrambled Eggs in Rice, Cups
Bran Muffins
Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Corned Beef

Cabbage, Beets, Turnips, Potatoes

Squash Pie Cheese

Half Cups of Coffee

Supper

Baked Corn Pudding, Nantucket Style

Bread and Butter

Stewed Crabapples

Sponge Cake with Cream

Breakfast

Oatmeal, Top Milk

Griddlecakes, Syrup

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Fresh White Fish Chowder
> Crackers
Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes
Blackberry Shortcake

Supper

Fish-and-Potato Hash

New Pickles

Rye Bread and Butter

Honey Cookies

Tea

Breakfast

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash

Sliced Beets

Breakfast Corncake

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Baked Mackerel

Creamed New Potatoes with Parsley

Summer Squash, Sauted

Apples Baked with Almonds

Cheese

Half Cups of Coffee

Supper

Cream Toast with Grated Cheese

Blueberries, Top Milk

Sugar Cookies

Tea

Breakfast

Cornmeal Mush, Grated Cheese

Blueberry Tea Cake

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Veal Cutlets en Casserole
Potatoes, Carrots,

String Beans
Chinese Cabbage,

Russian Dressing
Graham Bread and Butter
Baked Custard
122

Supper

Boston Baked Beans
Boston Brown Bread

Menus for One Week in September

Q
Z

Breakfast

Blackberry Juice (sweetened)

Oatmeal Bread, Butter

Broiled Ham

Plain Omelette •

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Chicken Pie (Biscuit Crust)

Boiled New Potatoes, Stewed Corn

Pershing Salad

Cocoanut Layer Cake

Iced Coffee

Supper

Boston Brown Bread
Cottage Cheese
Sponge Cake
Tea

Breakfast

Grape Juice

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Baking Powder Biscuits

with Honey
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Parsnip Soup

Sauted Vegetable Marrow

Cucumber Salad

Iced Tea

Dinner

Chops a la Maintenon

Boiled Potatoes, Browned

Swiss Chard

Watermelon

Coffee

<
Q

Breakfast

Gluten Grits with Prunes

Raised Wraffles, Maple Syrup

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Corn Chowder

Chocolate Pudding

Tea

Dinner

Rolled Flank Steak
Scalloped Egg Plant

Baked Bananas

Peach Pie (Meringue)

Iced Coffee

Breakfast

Corn Flakes, Top Milk

Fried Tomatoes

Buttered Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Curried Mutton with Rice

Cucumber Salad

Gooseberry Pie

Tea

Dinner

Halibut Turban, Tomato Sauce

Browned Baked Potatoes

Scalloped Salsify

Lemon Ice

Sponge Cake

Coffee

-
j.

Breakfast

Stewed Tomatoes

Sliced Peaches

Fish Balls

Puffed Rice, Top Milk

Buttered Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Creamed Eggs
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Creamed Chicken

Luncheon

Baked Bananas

Cream of Tomato Soup

jreen Peppers Stuffed with Curried Rice

Cheese Souffle

Oatmeal Bread

Oatmeal W7afers

-
>
<

O
%

Tea

Dinner

Succotash, Southern Style

Meat Loaf

Corn Muffins

Creamed Boiled Onions

Sliced Tomatoes

Buttered Lima Beans

Cake

Lettuce Salad

Pineapple Sherbet (Canned Fruit)

Banana Cake

Coffee

—
>

<
<

Breakfast

Berries

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes

with Maple Syrup

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Baked Eggs with Cheese

Toasted Crackers

Lettuce and Prune Salad

Tea

Dinner

Baked Beans

Mustard Pickles

Tomato Jelly Salad

Boston Brown Bread

Coffee

123

Food Notes for August- September

By Janet M. Hill

AUGUST and September are two of
the busiest months of the year.
At this time, for the sake of
economy and pleasure, some of the sur-
plus from the garden and orchard should
be put away for future use. It is wise
to put up no more than will be consumed
in the coming year. In small families
put up only such quantity of vegetable as
can be taken care of while getting a meal,
thus conserving time and fuel. With
soni • vegetables, as beets or string beans,
prepare a generous measure for dinner,
storing the oversupply in a can. Either
the open kettle or the cold-pack process
may be used. In both cases, cook until
a fork pressed into the bean shows the
proper degree of tenderness has been
reached. It h no economy to store
string beans of too large size. Often
fruit must be put up in larger quantity at
time of purchase.

Fruit Juices for Jelly

As for fruit for jelly, often a large
quantity must be taken care of at once.
Heat the fruit in a double boiler, or, by
taking more care, in an ordinary sauce
pan, until the juice flows freely; drain
in a cloth or bag; reheat to the boiling
point and store in sterilized jars, as in
all canning where the open kettle is used.
Water may be poured upon the contents
of the bag from which the juice has been
taken, then the whole boiled again,
drained and used in making really good
jelly, of scarcely less flavor than that of
the first extraction. With a supply of

various fruit juices in the store room,
combinations, as apple-and raspberry.
currant-and-raspberry,etc.,ma7 be made,
using the apple, or less expensive juice,
in smaller* quantity than the other.

Chickens

Chickens are now available, and there
seems to be absolutely no end to the ways
in which these may be prepared. Each
little bit of left-over cooked chicken and
all broth should be looked after scrupu-
lously. By making a cup of sauce of
broth enriched with one or more spoon-
fuls of cream, then adding bits of chicken
with a few canned peas or asparagus tips,
a most pleasing luncheon or breakfast
dish may be prepared. Butter small
ramekins and put chicken-mixture in
each; above break an egg and set into
the oven long enough to cook the egg.
A spoonful of sauce or a little grated
cheese over the top of the egg insures
more delicate cookery of the egg.

Salads

Some form of salad is a pleasing addi-
tion to hot chicken cooked in any way;
lettuce, endive, cress or sliced tomatoes
with French dressing cannot be improved
upon. Hominy or rice, or a fruit jelly,
as currant, are other suitable dishes to
accompany chicken.

Pickles

Pickles of various kinds take consider-
able time at this season. For a plain
crisp, cucumber pickle, soak the cucum-

124

FOOD HINTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER

125

bers over night in alum water, a scant
teaspoonful of alum to a quart of vvater;
rinse in cold water, pack in jars with a
few whole spices and seal secure. Use
but few black-pepper seeds, as they tend
to make bitter pickles. Now also is the
time to prepare mustard pickles.

Several recipes in this number are
adaptations from Wyvern. In "Cul-
inary Jottings," the sixth edition of
which was printed in 1891, Wyvern, an
English officer in Madras, gives as the
items essential to a menu for a "cosy
dinner, ' soup, fish, a well-chosen entree,
one joint only, game, a dressed vegetable,

one entremet, sweet, an iced pudding,
cheese with hors d'oeuvres and dessert.
He ends his discoveries by saying "edu-
cated people who have traveled and who
have had opportunities of forming refined
notions of human nature, in general, and
of food in particular, ought to be better
satisfied with a little, really well-con-
sidered, than with abundance inartistic
in its arrangement and indifferently
served." In Wyvern's time, the "back-
bone and true essentials of cookery were
eggs, gravy, cream and butter." In our
modern days, the backbone of cookery
for a cosy dinner necessarily must be
supplied in rather scant quantities.

Reconstructed Grape Jelly

By Wealtha A. Wilson

A LITTLE fellow whose entire school
life numbered less than four
months startled his mother, one
day, by straightening up suddenly and
saying, "Oh! I can remember the time
when I didn't know so much!" Many
a housewife can echo the little man's ex-
ulting cry. Like him, they are trudging
along, sturdily and happily, on the High-
way of Knowledge, equipped with that
enviable possession of childhood, the
teachable spirit. Without that spirit
living is merely a vain "going through
the motions," and the work accomplished
amounts to the merest imitations and re-
petitions. That which restored the teach-
able spirit to American housewives was
their determination that the Allies should
not starve as long as America could stint
herself and send her best to starving
Europe. That experience was a God-
send to American women. They are
just beginning to realize the extent of
the blessing.

They are just beginning to realize that
they have never yet examined their food
materials enough to know just what can
be gotten from them, not through penur-

iousness, but through the artistic instinct
which strives to put every created thing
where it can show to its very best. It
is the opposite of this spirit that is respon-
sible for the atrocious and wasteful
dinners cooked "in a jiffy" and paid foi,
too often, by months of doctor's bills and
wrecked homes. The reconstructed
housewife has glimpsed the tenets of the
truest art and the deepest philosophy.

Reconstructed grape jelly is not far
removed from these lofty themes. It
puts conservation in place of wasteful-
ness, and perfection in place of goodness,
that demands an apology for not being
better. Grape jelly has always been a
sort of "poor relation" among jellies. It
has never "made good" entirely. It
has always had a way of developing
crystals when jelly was needed in the
spring time, and it was never quite
straightforward about turning into jelly.
Give it a chance and treat it right and
see what it can do.

Ripe Grapes or Green Ones

Any kind of grapes can be used for
jelly, but each kind will give its own kind

126

AMERICAN COOKERY

of jelly. Green, that is, unripe, grapes
seem more willing to turn into jelly than
the very ripe ones, according to the old
theory. Different varieties give jellies
that vary in color and flavor. This fact
opens up fascinating hours for the eager
housewife. The new jelly will compare
favorably with the finest crab or quince,
even when made from fruit so ripe it
falls from the stem. Any woman who
makes it successfully will find herself
unable to fill orders should she wish to
add to her income.

Making Two Kinds At Once

Ripe grapes are referred to in the fol-
lowing directions. Take half the grapes
in a small grape basket and wash care-
fully by lifting the bunches up and down
in cold water. Have ready two granite
saucepans and drop the pulps with the
escaping}juice into one pan and the skins
into the other. In each pan place one
medium tart or unripe apple, sliced, the
juice of one-half lemon and half a cup of
water. Into the pan containing the
skins, put two level tablespoonfuls of
ground cinnamon and one of ground
cloves. Allow the contents of each pan
to simmer slowly until the pulp has
softened enough to loosen the seeds and
the skins in the other pan are thoroughly
soft. Do not cook enough to release
more than all the juice, however. Have
ready two jelly bags and empty the
pulps and juice into one and the skins
and juice into the other. Allow to drip
without squeezing, as otherwise the jelly
will not be crystal clear. All the juice
will drip out if time is allowed.

Only Two Glasses at a Time

Never attempt making more than two
glasses at one boiling. Jelly, made in
small quantities, is much more satis-
factory in every way and time is saved

in the end. Measure two and a quarter
glasses of juice and exactly the same
quantity of sugar. Stir well and allow
ten minutes from the time boiling begins.
Avoid furious boiling. The best way to
test jelly is to dip a spoon, tip down, into
the juice. Allow the juice to drip back
into the pan. If the hot juice coats the
spoon like molasses, the critical moment
is near. When the juice forms in a heavy
drop on the tip of the spoon and breaks
away sharply the jelly should be removed
from the fire at once. Practised jelly
makers spy twin drops formed on the
edge of the spoon just as the jelly is
perfectly made. Overcooking takes the jelly
past the jellying stage, and nothing will
restore that lost property.

Last Minute Hints

While the jelly is cooking take two
tablespoonfuls of the dark juice and add
it to the light-colored juice. This gives
a delicate, crabapple pink tinge.

As soon as the jellying stage has been
reached remove the pan from the fire
and allow all movement to cease. If
there is a thick scum that needs removing,
it should be taken off very carefully
before attempting to fill the glasses. If
this scum breaks as the jelly goes into
the glass, it will distribute itself through-
out the mass and destroy the appearance
of the jelly.

The light-colored jelly can be used
wherever the choicest jelly would be
served and the dark, spiced jelly is
especially fine with meat or fowl.

Jelly, made very late in the autumn
from over-ripe grapes, should have the
juice of an extra half-lemon allowed, and
also about a fourth more of grapes and
water on account of the added amount of
softened cellulose that mixes with the
juice and must be removed, at the last,
with a consequent loss of more or less juice.

Pests Made Profitable

By Ida R. Fargo

ABBIE ANDREWS had come to
the end of her vacation, which
was never long at best. Back in
town the air still seemed stiffling; it failed
to refresh one's heat-jaded nerves. But
Abbie was more resourceful than some,
perhaps because her tastes in life, as well
as in food, did not require high seasoning
she took to riding every week end to the
trolley's fartherest out-post, now in this
direction, now in that.

"What makes you do it, Abbie?"
complained a girl in the same office.
"You miss so much. Catch me gadding
off into the outskirts of Nowhere with
'Mary' and 'Charlie' at the movies!"

Abbie laughed, a little lilting laugh
that always made people wonder what
was so happy in her heart.

"Miss so much?" she considered.
"But I gain more. Didn't you ever
obey an impulse to picnic in the wilds,
or tramp 'cross a pasture — bulls being
absent — or find out where a trolley would
take you to?"

"Not me," affirmed the admirer of the
movies.

"Then you've never heard the call of
a wild weed patch," said Abbie Andrews,
sedately. "It's you who are missing so
much — you must be a little deaf,"
teasingly. "Why, don't you remember
that Nature-lecture we girls went to last
winter? You enthused as much as any
of us, I remember. And what was it the
man said — 'Nothing like a wayward
bit of Mother Earth to grip the human
heart, nothing like a wild weed patch!
It is a magnet, swinging us all around into
line like iron filings. It isn't a run-down
condition that makes most of us take a
vacation, it's the call of a wild weed
patch!' Wasn't that it? — And I've just
been obeying the call — because I'm
not deal " with a whimsical lift of
eyebrows.

"The colors of that man's wild weed
patch," quoth Abbie's companion, "is
what got me; the will-o'-the-wisp colors,
teasingly tantalizing, bewilderingly in-
consistent — ■ ripe grasses and dust- bloom
grapes, yellowy going-to-seed golden
rod and falling-to-pieces posies — and the
purple, purple distance for perspective."

Abbie nodded. "I'm trolleying out
to a piece of that purple perspective this
very evening — Nellie Whythacomb's
place; remember her? She used to be
Greer and Company's cash girl. Want
to go along?"

"Wish I could, but I can't; another
engagement," regretfully.

"Then come next time," coaxingly.

"I believe I will, but where to?"

Abbie Andrews shook her smooth
brown head. " Don't know," she said.
"Wherever the call comes strongest, but
one thing sure, I'm going to trolley into
the outskirts so long as the autumn color-
ing lasts." She considered a moment,
"And, maybe, after that, I'll be wanting
to go look at stretches of snow! As my
Aunt Janie says, 'I dunno but I will.' "

" Don't — you'll convert me," grimaced
the movie-interested girl.

"But tonight it's out to Nellie's —
and the dearest little supper! You never
could guess, it's popped popcorn ground
in the little food-conservation mill, piled
up in deliciously deep saucers, and eaten
with fluffy whipped cream. . . . Oh, it's
one of Nellie's originals — now don't you
wish you were coming? — ■ but there's my
car! Goodby, and good luck with the
'other engagement,' " mischievously.

So this is how Abbie Andrews happened
to be spending a certain week-end on a
certain little suburban farm of a dozen
acres; and how she happened to be
standing one sunshiny morning with
Nellie ruefully sun-eying one corner of
the garden square.

127

128

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Oh," sighed Nellie, "we never/never,
never can get rid of this horse-radish pest.
Every spring we plow it up, and every
summer it grows thicker and thicker, and
spreads farther and farther. I never
saw its equal, never! Every tiny bit of
broken root takes a hold on life and grows,
and grows, and grows! like Jack's bean-
stalk, and a harrow drags it from Dan
to Beersheba.,,

"My landlady has been trying to grow
a root in her back yard garden," said
Abbie, musingly, "but the soil don't seem
to be just right. You see, we're so fond
of it at our table, if I'm not on the tick
of time, I'm liable not to get even a smell.
Everybody dives for the horse-radish
dish the first thing — I guess they know
they have to, if they get any."

"I'll send some in to your landlady,"
offered Nellie in a rush of impulse. "I
haven't forgotten boarding-house days."

"Why, why don't you sell it? Furnish
it all the time?" Abbie's brown eyes
were speculatively taking in the size of
the corner patch. "Yours is so good,
you make it up so well — "
» "It isn't bad to do, now that I grind
the roots in the meat-chopper instead of
trying to grate them."

"Aunt Janie says there's always easier
ways of doing anything if a body just
finds 'em," agreed Abbie Andrews. " But
I'll take your sample into my landlady,
and we shall see what we shall see."

And out of so small a beginning grew
Nellie Whythacomb's business in herb
growing. For when her friend came back
on her next trolley trip she brought an
order for horse-radish that made the one-
time cash girl of Greer and Company
open her eyes in amaze.

"Why—?" she said. "Why— why —!"

"Why — !" laughed her brown-
eyed friend. "Yes, why? Why don't
you grow herbs and sell 'em? I'm think-
ing your horse-radish pest is going to be
a profit. Besides, there's other things,
and a lot of 'em ought to be started in the
fall. There's sage, — Aunt Janie could-
n't keep house without sage."

"Well, I wouldn't want to get along
without sage," admitted Nellie. "No-
body would who had much cooking to
do."

"And we who sit at the table have
something to say, too, acclaimed the one
of the smooth, brown head. "There's
the baked sausage balls that Aunt Janie
makes. Two or three cups of left-over
vegetables she takes, most anything that
isn't sweet, potatoes or cabbage or beans
or turnips or corn, just left-overs, usually
several kinds, and runs them through the
food-chopper, adds a cup of tomato juice
and pulp, a cup of graham bread crumbs,
salt, pepper and an egg. Into this she
chops a cup of uncooked sausage, along
with plenty of sage, makes the mixture
out into little flat sausage cakes, dips in
beaten egg and bread crumbs, fits 'em
into her big flat bread-tin and bakes them
till brown and well done. My, but they
are good! They use up the left-overs,
and really take very little meat."

"I think I'll try them," mused the
little farm lady.

Abbie nodded. "But once," she went
on, "Aunt Jane had company in the
kitchen; she says company ought to have
better sense," whimsically, "than to come
out'n the kitchen bothering about the
cook; 'cause, if company does, the cook
is sure to * leave suth'in out'n suth'in.'
This time, Auntie left out the sage. My
goodness, you ought to have seen the
eyes we turned on her when we began to
eat. We knew something was wrong,
right away. But we didn't know what,
not exactly. . . . Funny what a little
bit of seasoning will do to a thing."

"Not so very," murmured her listener.
Then, irrelevantly, "I could grow a lot
of 'seasonings' on a little place like this."

"That you could, and I suspect it
would pay better than a meadow full of
pigs," with a sort of idle interest. . . .

And it did; because, as we said, that
was the beginning of Nellie Whytha-
comb's new venture, which turned a pest
into profit, and put on the local market

Concluded on page 148

•IIIMIIIIII

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

A Raisin For Every Day

A GOOD appetite needs no brush.
It relishes good, well-prepared,
wholesome food. A food is wholesome
when it is enticing and relished in the
eating!

Food consumed under these conditions
gives the minimum of work for the
system; health is promoted, efficiency
is increased, and the whole outlook of life
is brightened.

It is when we scorn natural food and
scamper after artificial gratifications and
indulgences that our bodily powers are
weakened with the result the old Roman,
Seneca, states: "Man does not die, he
kills himself."

A common enough, yet little used,
article of food, that is worth many times
its weight in food value, is the raisin.
They are cheap, indeed, the very best of
them, considering their calorific value.
Thanks to the chemists are due for
calculating for us the raisin's calories,
in comparison with such standard foods
as eggs and beefsteak. Their finding
speaks with weight in favor of the raisin,
when they show that the food power in
one pound of raisins is more than double
that of one pound of eggs and about
one-third more than that contained in
one pound of beefsteak.

The grape, it is worth noting, has
always been extolled and its old-time
virtues and merits survive in our raisins
of today. Raisins abound in fat, protein,
phosphorus and iron in the best possible
form to be easily assimilated by the
human system. The raisin is more than

three-fourths carbohydrate and contains
the bulk of its sugar content in the form
of fructose and levulose. Then the
protein of the fruit is important, while
its acid qualities spur on digestion and
help assimilation, the appetit - being
piqued by the agreeable flavor imparted
to food prepared with raisins.

Then if we had exhausted the virtue
of the raisin, still it would be deservi:^
of a large place on even the humbles
board, for it has other valuable properties.
Of all the dried fruits none are so rich in
mineral matter, a natural constituent our
bodies cannot do without.

The quantity of organic iron con-
tained in raisins is surpassed by no other
fruit or vegetable. Besides iron, raisins
contain small quantities of such minerals
as sodium, phosphorus, sulphur, po-
tassium and calcium.

Raisins are produced from fine, deli-
cate, delicious, thin-skinned grapes, grown
on the Pacific Coast, where they mature
nicely. They are then dried in the sun
and by artificial heat.

There are three kinds:

Seedless Raisins (grown without seeds).

Seeded (seeds removed).

Clustered " (on the stems).

There are so many uses to which the
raisin will lend itself that it would be
superfluous to give recipes, but a cup of
seedless raisins cooked in the kettle of
stewed, dried apples makes a dish, in
our estimation, literally kingly!

In coffee cake we couldn't do without
raisins. A handful of raisins put into the
dinner pail of either child or adult is a
real find.

129

130

AMERICAN COOKERY

Raisins stewed gently in plenty of water
and the juice poured off, and sweetened
and cooled, provide a finer drink for
feverish patients than that made with
prunes.

Fondant, flavored with a little wistaria
and pressed about a seedless raisin, makes
a delightful confection.

Stewed prunes and raisins together are
an improvement over either, singly.

Raisins in boiled rice and puddings
add much to the food value of the rice.

Raisins added to the filling for cakes
give a richness and flavor all their own.

Raisins, chopped, are frequently added
to the various salads we serve in our
home.

A handful of good seedless raisins,
added to the pot of beef soup an hour
before it is desired to serve it, is a wrinkle
practised by a chef I know, and is only
one of his many ways of giving zest,
individuality and flavor to his cooking.

# * * F. M. C.

If You Do Your Own Tinting

WHEN our new home was finished
we had spent all our spare change
and the walls were left untinted. In
some of the rooms I did not dislike the
gray plaster tint, and so they still stand,
but my sitting and dining rooms I wanted
tinted a pretty tan.

"I'll do it myself. It can't be hard,
I'll follow the directions, and we'll use
a water tint," said the Man of the House.
"I know I can do it the next set of
holidays."

And so he tried, alas and alack!
Whether it was a defect in the plaster,
in the walls, or what, I cannot say, or
if the amateur tinter did not do right
in all ways. He had procured the right
kind of tools and studied directions.
But the tint dried in streaks. The
brush marks would show in spite of all
care.

Finally, the Man of the House went
to a friend who did this particular kind
of work, tinting walls. It was his busi-
ness; and, they say, there are tricks in all

trades. Perhaps, this isn't a trick. It
may be only a device, but it worked.
What more could we want?

"Get some glue, melt it up, thin it with
water, hot water, and add a small quan-
tity to each pail of water tint," advised
our tinter-man friend.

We got the glue. We followed direc-
tions. We awaited results with fear
and trembling. . . . Glory be! It worked.
Not a brush mark showed! Not a
streak anywhere! The Man of the
House seemed to be doing as well as if
he did tinting for a business instead of
a pleasure (?). My sitting room was
finished. My dining room was finished.
And, like the Little Wee Bear's porridge
appeared to Golden Hair, it was just
right.

I still have my pretty tan walls, and
I am perfectly satisfied. The money we
saved bought pretty curtains for the
windows. But, isn't it strange? the
Man of the House swore off on tinting
plaster walls. From that day to this
he has refused to try his hand at the trick
again. One of the neighbors tried to get
him to tint some rooms for them, — noth-
ing doing! "Get somebody who knows
how," grinned my obliging mate.

But, because the suggestion is a good
one,' and works to a dot, I give it to you.
Perhaps some one else would like to
try it. And, perhaps, if they do not
try everything else first, and fail, they
will not feel as My Man of the House
feels about it. It may be, some one else
will like to try a hand at it even a second
time. I've known plenty who do.

I. R. F.

* * *

A FACT that every mother should
bear in mind when taking children
out for the customary summer picnics, is
that they should not be allowed to drink
water from any small stream until it has
been thoroughly boiled. Where the coun-
try is at all thickly settled there are
constantly cases of typhoid which may
infect the nearest stream, and small bodies
of water, even if running in the sunshine,

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

131

do not immediately purify themselves.
Several cases have been traced to just
such careless picnic luncheons, and the
only safe way is to see that water for
drinking or for tea or coffee has been
boiled at least twenty minutes.

A visit to the tropics teaches one two
things, which can be put in practice in the
northern markets. The first is to try
a pineapple by pulling the stiff leaves at
the top. When they will come off easily
without jerking, the fruit is just ripe
enough. This is the West Indian market
woman's method, and a few experiments
with it will make one quite expert. The
second is that the nearer the surface the
eyes are in a cocoanut, the fresher it is,
and this freshness insures an advantage
in flavor and in the amount of milk
which the nut contains, a fact that the
ordinary buyer commonly overlooks.
The milk, which is often thrown away,
will make a delicious cocoanut ice, or will
add flavor to cocoanut cake or candy.
The most economical way to secure it is
to drive nails through the eyes and let
the milk drip into a bowl before the nut
is cracked.

It is a tradition in our household that
when currant jelly is made, raspberry and
currant jelly must also be manufactured.
Probably the idea first came from an
economical desire to use up the small
fruits before they withered with the heat.
Whatever its origin, we have come to like
the jelly thus made much better than the
plain currant, and as it is very easily
prepared, and makes a variation in the
day to day diet, it deserves the con-
sideration of every housewife.

The recipe is as follows: To two
quarts of red or black raspberries allow
one quart of red currants. Put the fruit
over the fire until it is completely broken
to pieces, strain, and to each pint of
juice allow one pound of sugar. Boil the
juice twenty minutes, heating the sugar
meanwhile. At the end of the period
unite the two and let the liquid again come

to a boil to make certain that the sugar
is completely dissolved. Roll the glasses
in hot water, fill and cover as for any
jelly.

This jelly has an exquisite flavor, and
we have used it in many ways. It is
especially good for cake, and it is also
excellent for melting, and, with a little
lemon juice added, using as a sauce with
plain vanilla ice cream. In this liquid
state it makes an excellent sauce for
cottage pudding; mixed with lemon juice
and water it can appear as an impromptu
drink a little more elaborate than plain
lemonade; it is very nice in Queen of all
Puddings, or on the top of Floating
Island, and it may be used as a delicious
flavoring for fondant or for chocolate
candies. m. v.

The best way of all is to can the currant juice
and the raspberry juice whenever available, then
unite the two and make the jelly when needed.

— Editor.

* * *

No More Tears if You Use
Goggles When Peeling Onions

SINCE time immemorial one of the
bugbears of the housewife has been
the irritating fumes that rise up and
cause the eyes to smart and weep co-
piously when one is peeling onions. But
this trouble has been overcome in a very
simple manner by a Chicago woman.
All you have to do is go out and buy a
cheap pair of automobile goggles, costing
ten cents, put them on, and then you can
peel onions all day without the slightest
discomfort. Furthermore, the goggles
will be found useful in doing other house-
hold «work that causes much dust to
arise, and when ammonia and similar
substances, which give off irritating fumes,
are used for cleaning purposes. The
glass in these goggles is perfectly clear,
hence, they do not interfere at all with

the user's sight. r. h. m.

* * *

Save Your Cake Crumbs

WHEN rich fruit cake is cut, there is
always a handful of luscious,
fruity crumbs left in the pan. If these

132

AMERICAN COOKERY

are allowed to accumulate with each
successive cutting until the cake is gone,
there will be enough to make a most
delicious fruit pudding, the pride of a
holiday dinner.

Here is the recipe: Two cups of
crumbs (if you have not quite enough
cake crumbs, piece out with a few toast
or bread crumbs); the yolk of one egg
and three-fourths of a cup of sugar,
creamed together; one and one-half cups
of milk; a grating of nutmeg. Bake,
and serve with the following sauce: one
cup of sugar, one-half cup of water, one
tablespoonful of butter, one heaping
teaspoonful of cornstarch; flavor with
extract to taste. h. s. j.

Getting Your Money's Worth

PURCHASE only what you need, and
by all means, take care of what you
have. Clothes should never be allowed
to go unmended or to whip in the wind,
and even long soaking shortens their life.
A wise man once said, "It is not what
you earn, but what you save, that makes
you rich." In these days, few of us
expect to be rich, but for our own sakes,
as well as for that of others, we must get
full value from what we have. However,
do not go without a necessity, provided
you have the price. It is neither wise
nor just. The "other fellow" needs the
money. But mere gratification of desire
is not to be thought of. Until one tries,
he never knows how much enjoyment
there is in simply looking at things. If
the five and ten cent stores have what
you need, patronize them. They contain
many things of value, which cost con-
siderably more elsewhere.

Saving the Pennies

Today, it is not "How much can I
spend?" but, "how much can I save?':
Not, "Pooh, it's only a dollar!" but
"how can I make this dollar do the work
of two?" Doing one's own sewing and
mending help materially, and fortunate

is she who can trim her hats as well.

"Necessity is the mother of invention."

Tasty garments may, often, be fashioned

from odds and ends, and bright bits used

as trimming will make the scanty pattern

suffice. Many a mother knows the

knack of dyeing and turning and cutting

down. To do it well requires taste and

care and judgment, but what mother ever

failed to meet the demand on her? Even

"made-overs" look well, if not slighted.

Old garments and old carpets make

pretty rugs, and if one must, Sarah's

worn dress, your petticoat and Aunt

Jane's flannels may be combined to j

furnish warmth to an otherwise scantily I

covered bed. Do the work in the sim- i

plest and quickest possible manner, i

however. Much time spent on old \

materials is not desirable. Old table-

cloths and napkins darned or cut into

lunch cloths, children's napkins, bread j

wrappers and wash rags considerably

prolong their usefulness, and partially :

worn out shoes should be patched and j

half-soled. Throw away nothing which

has possibilities, and few things have not. |

E. j. D.
* * *

Continental Bread Soup

Delicious and Nutritious, Specially,

Good for Children and Aged

Persons

SOAK old bread (rye, graham or white)
till it is soft; squeeze out the water.
Pour on boiling water enough to make
a soup of the desired consistency. Cook
until the bread is turned into mush; add
a piece of butter (about a level teaspoon-!
ful for one person), raisins, and cinnamon
and sugar according to taste, half as
much milk or cream as water used; cook
ten minutes.

Remove from the flame and stir in the
beaten yolk of an egg. Beat the white
to a stiff froth with sugar and flavoring
extract and put it by teaspoonfuls or
the soup ready to serve; one egg foi
soup for two persons. I. F.

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe*
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answer!
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4074. — "Please tell me what is
wrong with my Lemon Pies. There is always an
amount of liquid that soaks into the lower crust.
The meringue does not fall nor shrink away from
the crust. I have many calls for individual
lemon pies, but am afraid to try them."

To Keep Lower Crust Dry
in Lemon Pies

There are several causes that might
account for the condition of which you
speak.

Do you cook the custard before turning
it into the crust?

Does your oven bake well on the
bottom ?

Lemon-pie filling should be cooked in
a double boiler until it is as thick as
needed for the finished pie, making
allowance for the fact that the filling is
hot. There are two reasons for this, the
chief one being that long cooking is
needed for the starch required for thick-
ening. If the starch is thoroughly
cooked, there cannot be an accumulation
of liquid. If milk is used, cook the cus-
tard well and add the lemon juice when
half done to avoid curdling.

Some cooks bake the crust without the
custard and put the two together just
before serving. It is possible to make
the finished pie at one baking, however,
and have a dry lower crust. The oven must
bake well on the bottom and begin at once.

Query No. 4075. — "Kindly give a recipe for
Chocolate Pudding made of bread, and also one
without bread."

Chocolate Pudding with Bread

Cut bread into fingers an inch and a

half wide and long enough to line the
bottom and sides of a buttered mold.
Butter both sides of the bread very
lightly. Pile fingers of bread loosely,
log-cabin fashion, inside the mold.

Fill the mold with a custard and allow
it to stand for a while, especially if the
bread is dry. If necessary, add a little
more milk. The mold should be filled
to within an inch of the top. Place on
several layers of thick paper in a pan
containing hot water. Bake until the
custard is set, but do not allow the water
to boil. To make the custard, allow one
pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of flour,
eight tablespoonfuls of sugar, four eggs,
wrell beaten, and one teaspoonful of
vanilla. Melt four squares of chocolate
and stir into the sugar.

Sauce for Chocolate Pudding

Cream together one-half cup of butter
and one cup of powdered sugar until there
is no sound of the sugar. Add one tea-
spoonful of vanilla and fold into the
stiff white of one egg.

Devils Food Chocolate Pudding

Melt four squares of chocolate in a
granite sauce pan; add one-half cup of
sugar and one-half cup of milk. Cook
till it makes a smooth syrup. Add one
egg, well beaten, and cook slowly till
smooth and rather waxy. Set aside to
cool. Cream together one-half cup of
butter, and one cup of sugar. Add one
egg and the yolk of another, one cup of

133

134

AMERICAN COOKERY

milk. Add a tablespoonful of hot water
to one teaspoonful of soda and add to the
cool chocolate mixture. Add this to the
cake mixture and mix thoroughly; add
two cups of flour. Fill a buttered mold
to within an inch of the top, cover the
mold and steam an hour or longer.

Query No. 4076. — "All my Pie Crust turns
out tough. Will you please help me?"

Recipe for Tender Pie Crust

It is impossible to make good pie
crust unless the proportion between flour,
fat and wetting is adhered to exactly.
But positive skill is needed to secure the
full benefit from the wetting. When the
fat and flour have been thoroughly com-
bined, the mixture is granular, like
rather coarse corn meal. A fork is useful
for tossing the dry particles together, as
the wetting is added a little at a time.
Let the moist dough be pressed against
the dry part before adding more wetting.
// pie dough is wet it will be tough.
More failures are due to that fact than
to any other. Pie dough should never
be more than moist, and it should just
hold together and scarcely that. Prac-
tice will give skill in using the wetting
almost a drop at a time.

Mix together, thoroughly, one cup of
flour, one-fourth teaspoonful of baking
powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt.
Work in three level tablespoonfuls of
lard and then toss together with not more
than one-fourth cup of ice cold water.
Try to get along with less. Pastry can
be kept for several days in the ice box,
but not on the ice.

Query No. 4077. — "Can you give me a
good Drawn Butter Sauce for puddings and a good
substitute for whipped cream as a sauce?"

Drawn Butter Pudding Sauce

Rub together two tablespoonfuls of
flour and the same of butter. Add
gradually two cups of boiling water and
one cup of brown sugar. Cook till
thickened and clear. Flavor with lemon
or vanilla.

Whipped Cream Substitute
as Sauce

Mix together two tablespoonfuls of
corn starch and the same of sugar. Add
two cups of sweet milk and cook in a
double boiler till thickened. Pour slowly
over the stiff whites of two eggs. Beat
well, return to the fire and cook till the
consistency of cream.

Query No. 4078. — "Will you please give
recipes for Sour Cucumber Pickles and Sweet
Cucumber Pickles? Mine lack flavor. Also the
recipe for Park Liner Pudding."

Recipe for Sour Cucumber
Pickles

Make a brine that will float a fresh
egg. Soak the pickles over night or
longer if not convenient to attend to
them. In the morning take from the
brine, rinse in cold water and wipe dry.
If they have been in brine a longer time,
test for saltiness and soak in clear water
till right. For each quart jar allow two
heads of dill, two bay leaves broken in
bits, one-fourth ounce of mustard seed
(white) and twelve whole cloves. Also
slice one small horse-radish root and one
small piece of ginger root. Cover these
with vinegar enough to cover the pickles
and bring to a boil. Tie one tablespoon-
ful of mustard in a thin cloth and put
into the vinegar. Pack the pickles nicely
in glass jars and distribute the spices
evenly when packing. Fill to the top
with hot vinegar (as soon as it has
reached the boiling point it must be
taken from the fire) and seal while hot.

Sweet Cucumber Pickles

Soak in brine, as directed for sour
pickles, freshen and pack in jars. The
same spices as given for sour pickles will
do or a different flavor will be given by
using one-half ounce, each, of coriander
seed and celery seed and a few allspice
berries instead of the horse-radish and
dill. Weigh the pickles and allow half
as much brown sugar as pickles; half
sugar and half honey is good. Bring the

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Crisco is a vegetable cooking product, the cream of
wholesome vegetable oils. It is pure, white, tasteless,
and odorless, and does not turn rancid.

Crisco is all richness, and is unsalted. It costs only
about half as much as butter, and goes farther in
cooking, because even the best butter is one-fifth
water and salt.

Use Crisco for all kinds of cooking.
For Frying

Crisco fries without smoking. This means a clean,
sweet-smelling house. Crisco gives up its heat more
quickly than lard. Thus it forms a protecting crust
around food the instant it is dropped into the kettle,
keeping the fat out, and the flavor in. No greasy
taste to Crisco-fried doughnuts or fritters. And no
waste of fat — just strain the melted Crisco and use
again. The Crisco retains no taste of food it has fried.

For Shortening

Crisco is a more delicate shortening — and a richer
one. Use it in any recipe, and you'll have lighter,
flakier, tenderer pie-crust, biscuits and muffins than
you ever tasted. And they'll be more digestible, be-
cause Crisco is a vegetable fat.

For Cake Making

Add salt to Crisco, use it in cake, and you'll have
the butter taste at half of butter cost. Use one-fifth
less Crisco, or your cake will be too rich. Enjoy
fine cakes, cookies, puddings and other desserts.
Crisco makes them economically.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

135

136

AMERICAN COOKERY

vinegar, spices and sugar to a boil, and
continue for five minutes; pour over
the pickles in the jars; seal while hot.

We are not familiar with Park Liner
Pudding by that name.

Query No. 4079. — "Will you please give a
recipe for a Cooked Salad Dressing that has the
mild taste of real mayonnaise and will keep for
two weeks? "

Cooked Salad Dressing That
Keeps Well

This dressing keeps for two weeks if
sealed and kept in a cool place. Mix
together one tablespoonful of sugar, the
same of olive oil and salt, one scant
tablespoonful of mustard; add the beaten
yolks of three eggs and cook over water
until thick. Add one cup of milk or,
better yet, sour cream, and continue
cooking till a smooth custard. Beat the
whites stiff and pour the dressing over,
beating constantly. Return to the hot
water and cook till smooth, stirring
constantly.

Query No. 4080. — "Could you send me a
recipe for a Salad having a mold in the center of
the appearance and consistency of Bavarian
cream, but tasting as though made of cream
cheese, possibly with a basis of gelatine and
whipped cream, with sections of grape fruit and
orange on lettuce leaves around the base; also,
a dressing, if necessary, for the same? "

Molded Cream Cheese Salad

A very dainty salad, such as you
describe, could be made from junket
cream cheese. Use a rich grade of sweet
milk, heated to barely lukewarm tem-
perature. It is useless to use junket, if
that temperature has been exceeded, for
the milk has been changed, chemically,
so that junket will not act. Use at
least four times as much milk as you will
need of cheese and follow directions on
the package for amount of junket to use.
Let stand over night, or until very firm.
The milk must not be moved after the
tablet has been put in. The next morn-
ing turn the curd into a thin bag and
hang in a cool place to drip. After a
while pressure may be applied and a dry
curd secured. The drier the better.

Turn into a bowl and break into small
pieces. Add salt and work well; add
rich cream cautiously, working smooth
after each addition. The point is to
secure a smooth mass and avoid making
it too moist. Cream cheese can be
molded to keep its shape, but the addition
of gelatine to the cream, a little in excess
of the amount necessary to that amount
of cream, would insure a firm mold. A
ring mold would be pretty with lettuce
hearts in the center. A very delicate
coating of French dressing put on the
lettuce just before sending to the table
would insure a fine salad. The orange
and grape fruit sections could be arranged
around the base. A mayonnaise made
with just a hint of mustard, a few pinches
of curry powder, a full amount of salt
and all lemon juice instead of vinegar,
would be appropriate. Add whipped
cream to the mayonnaise before using.
In case a mayonnaise is not used, make
a sharp French dressing, using only oil,
lemon juice and salt.

Query No. 4081. — "Will you kindly pub-
lish a recipe for Canned Vegetable Chowder?"

Canned Vegetable Chowder

Corn Chowder is always a favorite.
Take two thin slices of fat pickled pork
or "green bacon," as it is called in some
localities. Cut into dice and try out
slowly. In a sauce pan have potatoes
that have been pared and sliced, boiling
in water to cover. When nearly done,
add the pork and fat with one can of
sweet corn, the water in which the pota-
toes were cooked and milk enough to
make the quantity of chowder desired.
If it seems too thin, thicken slightly, or
pour the chowder on to soda crackers
when serving.

A fine chowder may be made by using
one small can of tomato soup, one can of
chicken soup, both thickened slightly,
and as much milk as needed to complete
the quantity. Add any seasoning needed,
half a can of corn and one can of string
beans. The beans may be omitted and
asparagus tips substituted.

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137

The Silver Lining

Habit

How did I acquire the habit!
Once was shy as any rabbit,

This I'm apt to do —
Every day, the neighbors know it,
Realize I shameless show it,

I am tagging you.

Easy, very, to get started,
Never do to be faint-hearted,

Childish, perhaps, too,
Telephone is overworking,
Handy car is never shirking,

Both are tagging you.

Scmet: nes wonder what's your feeling,
Sjhin -like maid, with eyes appealing!

J1 ome folks call 'em blue,
] inr'' your house in any weather,
Oh '-rful if we're just together,

Always tagging you.

Thought I'd ask you last September,
Put it off until December,

Don't believe you knew.
Now that April winds are blowing,
Nature all her feelings showing,

Still, I'm tagging you.

Wish I knew how to begin it,
Gracious child, why you are in it,

Help me out a few.
You might say — "I'd feel it sadly,
Should you stop, I'd miss you badly,

Keep on tagging, do!"

— A. T. Frost.

Her Idea of Men

A little girl wrote the following compo-
sition on men:

"Men are what women marry. They
drink and smoke and swear, but don't go
to church. Perhaps if they wore bonnets
they would. They are more logical than
women, also more zoological. Both men
and women sprang from the monkeys,
but the women sprang farther than the
men." — Ladies' Home Journal.

When Cooking Tells

The cook was having a day off, and
she came down wearing a very stylish
frock.

"Why, Mary," said the lady of the
house, admiringly, "what a nice dress.
It would be hard to distinguish the
mistress from the cook."

"Don't you worry, mum," replied
Mary. " The cooking would tell."

Napoleon's Pose

The following story is an illustration of
the unfailing humor of the Yankee sol-
diers in the trenches:

Bill, from the Bowery, busily engaged
in hunting "cooties," says to his com-
panion in misery: "Say, I knows now
why dat guy Napoleon always had his
picter took wid his hand in de front of
his shirt!"

The Lesser Evil

The matrimonial problem presented
itself to a young lady who had reached a
marriageable age.

"Jeanie," said her father, "it's a
solemn thing to get married."

"I ken that, father," said the sensible
lass; "but it's a great deal solemner to be
single."

Hard to Keep Down

"The Germans," said Senator
Cummins, at a reception, "are already
growing cocky again. A naturalized
German said to me the other day: 'We
Germans are a wonderful people. The
Allies will never be able to keep us down.'
I gave a laugh. 'In one way, I'll admit,'
I said, 'they'll find it hard to keep you
down.' 'Yes, what way is that?' 'The
way,' said I, 'the whale couldn't keep
down Jonah.' "

Didn't Help Her Any

Mandy had been troubled with a tooth-
ache for some time before she got up
sufficient courage to go to the dentist.
The moment he touched her tooth she
screamed.

"What are you making such a noise
for?" he demanded. "Don't you know
I'm a painless dentist?"

"Well, sah," retorted Mandy, "mebbe
yo' is painless, but ah ain't.'

>4- "

138

ADVERTISEMENTS

"Bubble Grains This Morning "

Millions know how children welcome Puffed Grains in the morning. How they revel in
Puffed Wheat in milk at night.

There are other cereal dainties. But what compares with these bubble grains, thin, flavory,
toasted, puffed to eight times normal size?

Why not let them greet the children every summer morning?

Tidbits of Whole Wheat

Consider Puffed Wheat, for instance. It is whole wheat, steam-exploded.

In every kernel there occur more than 100 million explosions. Every food cell is thus
blasted, so digestion is made easy and complete.

The exploded grains are thin and fragile, flaky, flavory — nut-like in their taste. They
seem like food confections.

Yet they form the greatest whole-wheat food which has ever been created.

For Every Hungry Hour

A bowl of milk with Puffed Grains in it gains a multiplied delight. All fruits taste vastly
better if you mix these Puffed Grains in them.

Then keep a dish of Puffed Grains, doused with melted butter for hungry children between
meals. Thev are better than cookies or sweetmeats.

Puffed Wheat

Puffed Rice

and Corn Puffs

Each 15 cents — Except in Far West

The Quaker Qats (bmpany

Sole Makers

3164

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

139

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Samson et Dalila"

A middle-aged man was examining the
phonograph record catalog in a Kansas
City store, recently. "Why is this
opery called 'Samson et Dalila '?': he
asked. "As I recollect the story, Dalila
darn near et Samson." — ■ Reedy's Mirror.

Admiral Sims is credited with this
story: "The traveling salesman, in the
pie belt of New England, forced to eat
dinner in a small town, sat down at the
table. The waiter approached and sug-
gested the following menu: roast beef,
stew, or baked beans; and for dessert -a
choice of pumpkin pie, raspberry pie,
and apple pie. 'I will have roast beef,
stew, and baked beans, and pumpkin
pie, and raspberry pie,' said the salesman.
'There's nothing the matter with the
apple pie, is there?' asked the waiter."

"Now," said Admiral Sims to one of
the Englishmen present, "I'll bet you

can't tell me what was the matter with
that apple pie." "I'll be blamed if I
can," said the Englishman.

A Poser

Daphne and Doris are charming and sweet;

Best of the maidens I chance to have met.
Doris is stately and Daphne petite,

Daphne's a blonde type and Doris brunette.

When something happens to cause me distress,
Doris will comfort and Daphne will tease;

Yet to my heart (I am bound to confess)
Daphne and Doris hold duplicate keys!

When I feel frivolous, Doris seems slow;

When I am serious, Daphne's a bore;
How in creation shall I ever know

Which is the girl that I truly adore?

Should I wed Doris, in fashion sedate,
I shall be longing for Daphne the gay;

If I choose Daphne — she'll lead me a gait!
For quiet and Doris I surely will pray.

Pity a lover so sorely perplexed!

I've questioned my reason, examined my heart,
What is the answer? What shall I do next?

I think I'll woo Delia, and get a fresh start!

— Iris.

This New Range Is A
,Wonder For Cooking

Although less than four feet long it can do every kind
of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in summer
or by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating.

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as

the gas section is as entirely separate from the coal
section as if placed in another part of the kitchen.

Note the two gas
ovens above — one

for baking, glass
paneled and one for
broiling with white
enamel door. The
large square oven

The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy"

Coal, Wood and Gas Range

below is heated by coal or wood.

See the cooking surface when you want to rush things— five burners
for gas and four covers for coal. The entire range is always available
as both coal and gas ovens can be operated at the same time, using
one for meats and the other for pastry. It Makes Cooking Easy.

0%^l Gold Medal m

Glenwood

Write to-day for handsome free booklet 165 that tells all about it, to

Weir StOVe Co., Taunton, Mass. Manufacturers of the Celebrated Glenwood
Coal, Wood and Gas Ranges, Heating StoveB and Furnaces.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

140

ADVERTISEMENTS

Friday Afternoon

for

Strong and self-reliant, Nan reads
her essay without tremor or quake,
while Dorothy, in another room,
barely gets through her part without
breaking down.

It isn't because they were "born
that way." It may be a matter of
nourishment. We all know that good
food and good digestion will gener-
ally supply strength and confidence
emergencies much greater than those of Friday afternoon.

is a part of the well balanced diet that can be relied upon to sustain anyone, child or man,
when perfect control of the faculties is required.

Jell-0 does not have to be cooked and can be made in a minute. These are the six
flavors : Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, Orange, Cherry, Chocolate. Two packages for 25
cents at all grocers'.

The latest Jell-0 Book will be sent free to every woman who will send us her name and
address.

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY
Le Roy, N. Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

141

AMERICAN COOKERY

is preferred for sweetening and flavoring
by many housewives. Its wholesome
purity and real maple flavor imparts an
added tastiness to pies, puddings, cake
and cookies. A trial will make you a life-
long friend of Uncle John's Syrup — and
convince you that

It's as Necessary on the Table
as the Sugar and the Cream

Uncle John's Syrup is delicious on brown bread,
pan cakes, and waffles. When served on Ice
Cream it makes a splendid Maple Sundae. Try-
it — you'll find a new and palatable way to use it
every day. Ask your grocer.

Put up in 4 convenient sizes

New England Maple Syrup Co.

BOSTON, MASS.

Eat More Bread

Bread is the most importanl
we eat. It furnishes abu
nourishment in readily dig<
form. The fact that it nev
comes tiresome though eate
after day, is proof of its n
food qualities.

Eat plenty of bread made u

FLEISCHMANN'S Y

: food
ndant
istible
er be-
n day
atural

iith

EAST

Home Life in Pioneer Days

Conclvded from page Q4

hand embroidered, monogrammed, hem-
stitched linens were among her belong-
ings, to involve extra care and expense.
To have wiped on a hand-embroidered
towel would have been condemned as
nothing short of criminal, and as to
lamb's wool and down-silk quilts, such
extravagancies would have been inex-
cusable. And yet today we are willing
to pay four times the price of a silk com-
forter for one of the old-fashioned cover-
lids woven by pioneer housewives. As
to the home-woven linen sheets, many a
woman, who is so fortunate as to count
among her possessions these remnants
of the good old days, is utilizing them for
portieres and even gowns. Such a dis-
position of these treasures would doubt-
less scandalize the good dames who wove
the fabrics with toil-worn fingers and
painstaking care.

The few pieces of silverware owned by
the pioneer housewife were priceless
heirlooms, and rarely saw the light of
day. Two or three spoons, marked with
the monogram of some ancestor, or a
silver teapot, were kept wrapped in
flannel in a great copper bound chest,
only to be brought out on state occasions.
The people in those days, however, who
could boast of such heirlooms were in
the minority, for it was the custom for
housewives to keep their own copper
moulds and make pewter spoons.

The china collector who raves over
willow platters, and other old dishes,
would have felt that the pioneer house-
wife desecrated the beautiful ware, could
she have seen the plebeian uses to which
it was put. Many a piece of willow warej

ANGLEFOO

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says In the bulletin: "Special
pains should be taken to prevent children from drinking poi-
soned baits and poisoned flies dropping into foods or drinks."

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

142

ADVERTISEMENTS

«pp

Wilson's Certified Bacon

excels in flavor and quality

A few slices of Wilson's
Certified Bacon — hot
from the 'kitchen — a
teasing, pleasing aroma
that wakens new zest
in your appetite — a
crisp, rich, delicious
taste that tells of ex-
celling quality — No
one has a better
breakfast than you!

Only choice bacon sides
are given our long,
mild cure and sweet
hickory smoking, so
that the finished prod-
uct proves to you
that "Certified" is not

a mere trade name but is a
principle.

We are as careful and
thoughtful as your own
mother would be in the
selection and preparation
of Certified Bacon, as well
as Certified Ham and all
other foods bearing the
Wilson Label. This
label is a constant assur-
ance to you that the
product has been hand-
led with the respect
your food deserves.

It is an economy to
buy the whole piece
of Wilson's Certified
Bacon.

*JKu> mcuik.

s\ r\ n

WtLSON flc CO.

xr±x/

yovji quatemtee'

,7i<? Wilson, Label Protects TToizr Table

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

143

AMERICAN COOKERY

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand for expert assistance in private
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range
from £60 to $100 a month, or more, with
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and
an average of eight hours a day "on duty.
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are
given the same dignified social recognition as
trained graduate nurses.

Here is your opportunity — our new home-
study course for professional housekeepers will
teach you to become an expert in the selection
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and
food values, in marketing and household ac-
counts, in the management of the cleaning,
laundry work, mending, child care and training,
— in all the manifold activities of the home.
When you graduate we place you in a satis-
factory position without charge. Some posi-
tions are non-resident, others part-time.

The training is based on our Household Engin-
eering course, with much of our Home Economics
and Lessons in Cooking courses required.
Usually the work can be completed and diploma
awarded in six months, though three years is
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting
and just what every housekeeper ought to have
for her own home.

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and 'Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

Our reputation, and fifteen years of exper-
ience backs this course. Your provisional
enrollment is invited, with no obligation or
expense to you.

American School of Home Economics,
503 W. 69th Street, Chicago.

Please enroll me, provisionally, for your new Graduate
Housekeepers' Course. Send the "Domestic Science
Library" in six volumes, de Luxe edition, with first lessons
and full details. If satisfactory, I will send first pay-
subsequent payments of $5 per month until a total of $25
ment of $5, five days after receiving the "Library" and
is sent in full payment. — for instruction, diploma and
for all expenses. The "Library" becomes my property,
and all membership privileges are to be included for three
(3) years. If not suited I will return books, etc., in five
days, at your expense and will owe you nothing.

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference)

which now adorns the dfawing-room
mantel piece and the china closet of the
collector, has literally been rescued from
the rubbish pile.

Such busy days as those were! In
addition to all the regular household
tasks and the rearing of and caring for
the children there were so many extra
duties. When the housewife ever found
time to spin all her linen, to make shoes
for her family, to make her candles and
spoons, is a mystery. But then she was
a thrifty dame, and spent much less time
on her clothes and superfluous adorn-
ments than does her modern sister, who
never has time for anything.

It must have been an experience worth
having to sleep in the attic on rainy
nights, and listen to the patter of the
raindrops on the roof. The home-made
trundle bed of rough-hewn posts was
substantial, if it was homely, and although
it could not boast of woven wire springs,
it was very comfortable with its woven
rope " springs," and capacious feather
bed. As to the old patchwork quilt,
which covered the bed, it was a relic of
which even the children were proud, for
it was made of pieces of gowns worn by
great aunts and great grandmammas
long since dead.

What a place that attic was, with its
old skin-covered trunk, its queer old
band boxes, its curious lanterns, its
quaint baskets and saddle-bags. Then,
too, there was always the pungent odor
of drying herbs, which hung from the
ceiling, and the pleasant smell of which
filled the chamber with a fragrance that
recalled the summer time. But the attic
is filled with other memories, for it was
also the center of many exciting and
anxious hours when the safety of the little
home was threatened and the guards
watched for Indians through the port
holes.

The crude contrivances with which our
forefathers kept house, cleared the land,
tilled the virgin soil and wove their
clothing from their own field products
are all to be seen in the dim light of the

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

144

ADVERTISEMENTS

DON'T let single electric light
sockets deprive you of any of the
conveniences of electricity. Your sin-
gle sockets can be turned into double
workers instantly and without any
wiring. The

provides any single socket with two
outlets. It makes it easy to attach an
appliance without removing the lamp.
It makes a single socket able to give
power as well as light— heat as well as
light — or two lights. No appliance
need be a slacker.

Millions now in successful use. Folder
free on request.

Every Wired Home Needs Three or More

At Your Dealer's

TheBenjaminNo. 903 Swivel Attach-
ment Plug screws into any electric
socket without twisting the cord.

The Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Hold-
er makes it easy to use any shade
with your Two-Way Plug. Price 15c.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

145

AMERICAN COOKERY

p^^.

w*»

.,.<■■-

■*K,

^JL Direct from the Ocean //^
^^T# to you '/jr^j

The finest fish product for making

Creamed Fish Fish Souffle
Codfish Balls Fish Salad

fish croquettes, curried fish, and many
other dainty and delicious fish dishes.
Only the firm white meat of the big,
wholesome cod and haddock, packed
in parchment lined airtight containers.
It takes three pounds of fish to make
one pound of

BURNHAM & MORRILL
FISH FLAKES

No cooking — no shredding — no bon-
ing. No loss of time — no wasted effort
— no delayed meals. Just the solid
white meat of deep-sea fish — prepared
and cooked in modern, sanitary, seaside
kitchens. Ready to serve the moment
the perfect contents are removed from
the tin. Burnham & Morrill Fish
Flakes simplify the cooking question,
delight the family and are nourishing
as well as appetizing.

At your grocer's

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO.

75 Water St., Portland, Me., U. S, A.

Free on request — "A Book of Recipes" for prepar-
ing many tempting dishes.

Packing and specializing in State of Maine
Food Products only — the best of their kind — in-
cluding B& M Paris Sugar Corn — B fc? M Pork
and Beans, B& M Clam Chowder, BUM Lobster

cabin which is illuminated by old-style
glims. Near the cabin is an ancient
bee hive, a crude ash hopper, and a well-
sweep, each one of which has its story to
tell about the early pioneer days, and the
simple life which the people exemplified
and loved so well. 4

MORE ABOUT VITAMINES

PROFESSOR BAYLISS, of Univer-
sity College, says, "There are at least
three different kinds. The anti-neurotic
vitamines, which include those that pre-
vent beri-beri; the antiscorbutic vita-
mines, effectual against scurvy; and
the vitamines that are necessary for
growth. Raw food contains a far greater
amount of vitamines than cooked food.
Boiling in alkaline water is especially
prejudicial, and destruction is also effected
by most of the processes of drying and
preserving, including all tinned foods.
Oranges, lemons, and lime juice contain
an exceptionally large proportion of anti-
scorbutic vitamines. Sugar is lacking in
vitamines, but they are found in honey
Milk contains them except in the ster-
ilized or condensed form. Cereals thai
have lost their outer coats, such as
polished rice, are deficient in them. Rau
meat, if only we could eat it, would yielc
a much richer supply of vitamines thar
we can obtain from it when cooked." T(
sum up, Professor Bayliss assures al
anxious enquirers that "Nobody wh(
lives" on a mixed diet — especially if i
includes a fair proportion of fresh frui
and vegetables — need worry himsel
about vitamines. If they are absen
from one article they are likely to b
present in some other.5

When Dirt Is Sweet

Last night, when we put Phil to bed,
With sleepy eyes weighed down like lead;
We just forgot — to wash his face,
And left on it — more than a trace
Of mixed-up tears, and grimy streaks,
Besmirching both his dimpled cheeks.
When dawning day brought light again,
And wakeful eyes, and smiles; why, then — [
We vowed, so sweet a face was never kissed,;
Why, e'en the dirt we would have missed!
— Myrtle Meyer Eldred.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

146

ADVERTISEMENTS

rhe Modern Milk for the

Modern Kitchen

DO you know that Carnation Milk meets every
need of Domestic Science? It is the modern
and the economical way to use milk.

Because Carnation Milk is sterilized after it has
been hermetically sealed in the new container it
will keep much longer than fresh milk.

Remember this always: Carnation Milk is just
about twice as rich in butter fat and milk solids as
an equal quantity of raw milk. Therefore, when
you add an equal part of water to Carnation, you
get milk of natural consistency.

Use Carnation wherever you use milk in cooking.
Use it undiluted on cereals and in coffee. Whip it for
desserts and salads, for it may be whipped like cream.

The only difference between Carnation Milk and fresh
milk is this — part of the water has been removed from
Carnation Milk by evaporation.

Do not confuse Carnation Milk with "sweetened-con-
densed" milk, for it contains ho sugar and is sterilized.

Write for "The Story of Carnation Milk" which contains
100 carefully tested, economical recipes. We also have a
special folder on "How to Whip Carnation Milk" which
we will send to Domestic Science instructors for dis-
tribution among their classes. Address Recipe Booklet
Dept., Carnation Milk Products Co., 958 Consumers
Bldg., Chicago, 111.

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS CO.

SEATTLE CHICAGO AYLMER, ONT.

Evaporatories located in the better dairying sections of the United States and Canada

Carnation

From Contented Cows

Milk

The label is white and red

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

147

AMERICAN COOKERY

Swans Down

It takes a

Special

Cake Flour

to make

the
Best Cake

Wax
Paper

Wrapped

" ■■•■—■ '

Prepared {7lot Se(f-72ising)

Preferred by Housewives for24years

Especially prepared for making lighter, whiter, finer,
better cakes, such as you will be proud to make. Pre-
ferred by housewives, cooking-school teachers and
domestic science experts for 24 years.

Send 10 cents for "Cake Secrets" — a text book on
cake making by Janet McKenzie Hill.

IGLEHEART BROTHERS

Established 1856
EVANSVILLE - INDIANA

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness.

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMO-VESCO.
Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 \ oz. , .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00
(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

411 BAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

Pests Made Profitable

{Concluded from page 128)

in cookery. For, following the horse-
radish and sage, came parsley and thyme
and dill, and caraway seeds for a million
cookies, and many a plant that Abbie
speculated over afterward, and then
hunted about for the busy owner to ask
what it was, and for what it was used.

"I didn't know one could grow so many
flavors," she protested one day. "I
thought they came mostly in bottles with
corks, and one bought them down town
at a store."

"When you come to be a cook, even
for two," there was a touch of tease in
the answer, " I'll agree to furnish you with
most of your flavors, and few of them will
be found in bottles. Because, it is really
you who started me out on this venture,
and how I love it! Isn't it odd how some
unexpected thing pushes us bodily into
our proper niche, and we never know till
afterward that that is exactly where we
belong?"

Abbie Andrews' brown eyes were fixed
absently on the purple, purple per-
spective. "One thing just leads to
another," she answered thoughtfully;
"and because we haven't any chart of
the way ahead, we never know just
exactly what we are coming to. That's
one thing that makes life 'so full of a
number of things' — remember Stevenr
son, Nellie? — that a body can't help
just naturally falling in love with living.
There are such a lot of surprises tucked
into every day, like birthday presents
hidden about the house for us to hunt out,
like we used to when we were little.
Unguessed surprises everywhere." Then
suddenly, "We girls at the office have

SALAD SECRETS

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N. Y.

SEVEN-CENT MEALS J^pS.."^

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or free for names of four friends
interested in Domestic Science.
Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

148

ADVERTISEMENTS

RmoniraiHE

8 VARIETIES

IN TINS

HERE»is the key to health and appetizing delight for the
children and convenience for mother. Keep the pantry sup-
plied with the tins full of these "Rounds of Golden Goodness."

American
Pimento

Kraft or the tasty Elkhorn
make the daintiest sand-
wiches— not only tasty but
full of nourishment and
feeding value and easy to
prepare.

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO., Chicago-New York

8 Varieties— Each of National Favor

Kraft Chile Swiss Pimento Rarebit

Camembert Roquefort Limbur&er

Send 10c in stamps or coin for sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento
flavor, or 20c for both. Illustrated book of recipes free. Address
361-3 River Street, Chicago, Illinois.

It &ives the children the very best
of the milk — their natural and finest
food. Economical, too; no rind, no
waste. Be ready
for the next
school lunch.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

149

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

rT SERVES YOUS MOML AND
SAVtS YOUB TIMi. THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
UndersheJves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grada piaca of furni-
tur. surpassing anything yet at-
tempted (Of GENERAL UTILITY.
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessnesa. WRITE NOW
FOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET
AND DEALERS NAME. <•

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

■¥• ' 504J Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III.

'IV

\J-

beats
everything

You can beat eggs, whip cream, churn
butter, mix desserts and dressings and
blend the most delicious drinks in a
jiffy with a

Roberts

LIGHTNING BEATER

and MIXER

You'll find a hundred uses for it. Quick,

strong, simple, sanitary. Nothing else

like it made.

// your hardware, house furnish-
ings or department store can't
supply it, mail $i for i-quart
size prepaid anywhere in U. S.
Safe delivery guaranteed. {Also
made in pint size — 75c; 2-quart
size— $1.75-)

NATIONAL COMPANY

165 Oliver St. Boston, Mass. J

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

— , @ Red Label

Spices

The A.Colburn Co.,
Philadelphia,U.SA

formed a trolley-trip club, and we want
to all come out and visit your little ranch
some time soon, may we?"

I guess yes," beamed Nellie Whytha-
comb, and immediately she began to plan
a little "surprise" of a luncheon, simple
and adapted to the date. She had
noticed the very thing in the last Cook-
ery Magazine, which at that very moment
waited her reading on the little library
table.

The governor's wife was telling Bridget
about her husband. "My husband,
Bridget," she said proudly, "is head of
the state militia." "Oi thought as
much, ma'am," said Bridget, cheerfully.
"Ain't he got the fine malicious look!"

A story told of Bishop Greer illustrates
the plain nature of the man. On an
occasion when he was to confirm a class,
a carriage was sent for him in charge of an
English coachman who had been im-
ported by a wealthy American. Bishop
Greer walked unaccompanied and in non-
clerical dress from his front door to the
carriage and entered it, but the driver
did not move his horses. After waiting
for a moment the Bishop asked the man
why he did not drive on. "I'm waiting
for the Lord Bishop of New York, Sir,"
the proper person replied. "Well," said
the Bishop. "I'm it. Drive on."

Alfred Noyes was complaining about a
harsh critic. "This critic's work," he

in its

said, "reminds me

unsparing

harshness of a dialogue between two
villagers. 'There goes Bill Smith,' said
the first villager. 'Bill ain't the same
man he used to be.' 'No,' said the
second villager, 'and he never was.'
— Pittsburgh Chronicle-Telegraph.

AGENTS i

GUARANTEEI
WATERPROOI

KITCHEN
Zl APRONS

make big profits.^ Work all or span
time. Made in five styles. Agent;
furnished a complete set of sample
without cost. Write today for ful

mf particulars.

I *~ MOSS APRON: COMPANY

97 Pilot Bldg., Rochester, N.Y

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

150

ADVERTISEMENTS

It Tastes As Good As It Looks

Tapioca Honey Souffle

Put two cupfuls of milk, a tablespoonful of butter. one-
eiKhth teaBpoonful of Bait and a tablespoonful of sugar
into a saucepan; into this stir a cupful of MINUTE
TAPIOCA, simmer on a low fire for ten minutes, stir-
ring constantly. Remove from fire and add to it the well
beaten yolks of four egfrs Mix well, flavor with a tea-
spoonful of vanilla essence and fold in the stiffly beaten
whites of four eggs, pour into a greased dish and bake
in a moderate oven about thirty minutes. Serve with
hot strained honey poured over it.

This new dessert is delicious. Here you have the
delicate flavor of Minute Tapioca combined with the
rich taste of honey. Light and fluffy as a souffle should
be, it is nutritious as well. This nutritive value is sup-
plied by the Minute Tapioca.

You should serve desserts and other dishes made with '
this long-time favorite very often. For Minute Tapioca
is a great energy-building food. It is easily digested
and is as good for you in warm weather as it is in cold.
It may be used in so many different dishes that the
family do not tire of it. It just gives a familiar savor to
surprise desserts and old receipts alike.

Minute Tapioca is always ready for use. It may be
thoroughly cooked in fifteen minutes. It is made of
genuine tapioca flour. Look on your grocer's shelf for
the red and blue package with the Minute M?.n

Send for the New Minute Cook Book, which gives many receipts
for Minute Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. Free upon request.

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY
109 East Main Street Orange, Mass.

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151

AMERICAN COOKERY

Crawford

^y 1?s* n one* as

Crawford combination ranges are
really two ranges in one — a coal
range of generous proportions, and a
convenient gas range.

The coal range has a roomy oven,
and the Crawford single -damper
which assures the correct degree of
oven temperature at all times.
Instead of a clumsy, untidy ash pan
there are interchangeable coal and
ash hods — one trip serves to empty
ashes and bring back coal.

The gas stove has five burners — all
so constructed that the heat is con-
centrated directlv under the center of
the kettle or pan — and a convenient
oven with a new and improved fold-
ing broiler.

We have mentioned onlv a few of the
many advantages which make the
Crawford a constant pleasure to use.
Any Crawford dealer will gladly tell
you more about this most efficient
range.

Sold by Leading Dealers

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO.

BOSTON, U. S. A.

Makers of ^Highest
Quality Ranges,
Furnaces & Boilers

Domestic Scientists Agree

that special cake flour should be used
for all cakes and pastries. Bread flours
have too much gluten — a necessity for
bread but a detriment to cake. Gluten
is the tough, heavy part of the wheat. Most
of this element is eliminated from

ROXANE Cake Flour

Roxane is just the softest, lightest part of
the wheat. 60 pounds of premium soft Indiana
winter wheat — the finest wheat grown — yield
only I0| pounds of Roxane. All the rest is
rejected. So Roxane makes wonderful cakes
and pastries, finer, lighter, smoother. Your
family will be prouder than ever of your skill if
you use Roxane.

If your dealer can't supply you, send his name
and address. We will see that you are supplied.

AKIN-ERSKINE MILLING CO.

Makers of Roxane Cake and Roxane Pancake Flour
Evansville, Ind.

I think the syrup's
thick enough"

DON'T just think. In this year's canning. Know!
Not merely the looks but the facts. Not merely
how thick the syrup should be, for the different fruits.
But when it is that thick. Easy ! With the

Taylor
Home Set

The Sugar meter C$1,001 shows the thickness of
the syrup in figures. The Taylor Recipe Book tells
the right figures for different fruits. It's the only way
to insure best results. Saves waste of sugar.

And you get the correct temperature in boiling -with
the Candy Thermometer ($1 .50j and the correct tem-
perature in baking with the Oven Thermometer
($1.75).

Write for the three Taylor
Recipe Books. Temperatures
telling recipes for jellies, pre-
serves, fruit canning — also
breads, pastries, cakes, can-
dies.

Taylor Instrument Companies

Rochester, N. Y.

If your dealer can't supply
the Taylor Home Set or will
not order for you. mail $4.25
(price of complete setj direct to
us with dealer's name and it
will be sent .you prepaid.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

152

ADVERTISEMENTS

MORTON'S

Salt

When It Rains

it PQURs

Now She Knows
Why It Pours

IT'S well worth while to study
Morton's Salt through a magnify-
ing glass! You'll see just why it pours.

The clear, shining crystals are cubes, ex-
actly alike. Of course they won't stick
together, even when damp. When it rains
it pours.

The exact seasoning quality of Morton's
prevents waste because the food tastes
right. No powder in the can, no fault in
the cooking.

Notice the aluminum spout. Adjustable, con-
venient and sanitary; an exclusive feature of
Morton's Salt.

Morton Salt Company
80 E. Jackson Blvd., Chicago

One of the "big little things"
every woman can afford.

£ RUNNiN'

ALT

lip

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153

AMERICAN COOKERY

NBSH

MADE IN A JIFFY

A nourishing easily prepared food is what the average woman wants for her family during
the Summer.

Nesnah is such a food and can be served for breakfast with cereal or for luncheon.

Then, too, it makes a delicate pudding, milk sherbet or delicious ice cream.

Whenever or however it is served it is always a nourishing dish, as Nesnah improves even
fresh wholesome milk.

Nesnah Milk Sherbet is refreshing and economical; many say that it is better than the aver-
age ice cream.

Nesnah Ice Cream is easily made, the sugar and flavoring in just the right quantity is already
in the Nesnah. Not much cream is required, and still a smooth, velvety ice cream can be had.
This is partially due to the unique blending and our new ice cream recipe.

RASPBERRY NESNAH MILK SHERBET

2 quarts of milk 2 packages of Nesnah

Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm (remove from stove), drop the Raspberry Nesnah into
it and dissolve by stirring for one-half minute. Pour mixture into ice cream can and let it stand
undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes until set; pack with ice and salt; freeze.

One ten-cent package makes a quart.

SIX PURE NATURAL FLAVORS
Chocolate Raspberry Lemon

Orange Almond Vanilla

A postcard will bring you a sample package and a Nesnah Booklet.

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, INC.
The Junket Folks

BOX 2507 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.

Principles of Chemistry Applied to the Household

AN ELEMENTARY TEXT BOOK
By HANNAH TERESA ROWLEY, A.B., The Winsor School, Boston, Mass.,
and HELEN W. FARRELL, A. B., Bradford Academy, Haverhill, Mass.
Cloth, 296 pages, 98 Illustrations, 55 Experiments, $1.25 net, postpaid $1.40

This book contains a simple introduction to the principles that underlie the study of chemistry and an application of these
principles to an elementary study of the chemistry of foods and cleaning.

A Guide to Laundry Work mary d. chambers, bs., a.m.

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents.

By MARY D. CHAMBERS,
B.S., A.M.

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system Valuable appendices. A
series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 100 calorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables
for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students.

By MARY CHANDLER JONES

Teacher of Cooking in the Public Schools
of Brookline, Mass.
Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15

Send for Descriptive Circulars

THE BOSTON COOKING -SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. |

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154

Principles of Food Preparation By marbysd

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaic

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the in(
series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 100 calorie portio
for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and sii

Lessons in Elementary Cooking

ADVERTISEMENTS

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

CONDITIONS • Premiums are not &iven with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
_ - to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

Be the first in your town to have these.

You cannot purchase them at the stores.

This shows the jelly turned from the mould

This shows mould
(upside down)

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75 cents.

"PATTY IRONS

»9

As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky

f>ates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv-
ng hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables,
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes
securely packed in an attractive box with recipes
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME
AND EGGS

Does the work
quicker and bet-
ter than it can
be done in any
other way. One
will be sent post-
paid to any
present subscri-
ber as a premium
for securing and
sending us one
(1) new yearly
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

"^Bf'ww^j^s

sent, postpaid for one (1)

a«h r»rire 75 C6ntS for tWO

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one
new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for
pans.

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO,

Boston, Mass.

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155

AMERICAN COOKERY

PREMIUMS

Loose Bottom Aluminum Cake Pans. High grade, superior,

practical in every way

LOOSE BOTTOM

ROUND 9 INCH

LAYER CAKE PANS

Two pans, prepaid, for one
(1) new subscription. Cash
price 75 cents for two pans.

SPONGE CAKE PAN

Eight inch, prepaid for two (2)
new subscriptions. Cash price
$1.50.

Square
8 inch Layer Cake Pans

Two pans, prepaid, for one (1)
new subscription. Cash price,
$1.50 for 2 pans.

TRIPLICATE SAUCEPAN

Aluminum, detachable handle. Cooks three things at once, on one
cover. Convenient and a fuel saver.

Sent, prepaid, for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash price, $3.00.

BUFFET SAUCE PAN

Heavy CAST Aluminum

Rubberoid handle. One quart size. A dis-
tinctive and superior dish. Do not confuse this
ware with the light weight spun utensils. Sent,
prepaid, for (4) subscriptions. Cash price $3.00.

COLONIAL
RICE BOILER

Heavy CAST Aluminum

Two-quart size. Same make as at the!
left. These are dishes to be proud of.i
They will wear a lifetime.

Sent, prepaid, for five (5) subscriptions.!
Cash price, $3.75.

COLONIAL TEA
KETTLE

Heavy CAST
Aluminum

With automatic lid.
Same make as above.
Five-quart size. This

is a beautiful piece of
ware. If you saw it you would not rest content
till you had it.

Sent, prepaid, for six (6) subscriptions. Cash
price. $4.50.

VEGETABLE CUTTERS

Assorted shapes. Ordinarily
sell for 10 cents to 15 cents each.
Eight cutters — all different —
prepaid, for one (1) new sub-
scription. Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

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156

ADVERTISEMENTS

PREMIUMS

Crisps made with these moulds
representing Hearts, Diamonds,
Clubs and Spades, are ideal for
serving at card-party luncheons.

The bottom of the center space
is closed; in this can be served any
creamed meat, oysters or vegeta-
bles, garnished around the edges
with parsley, radishes or olives.

Another excellent way of using
is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf
and fill with salad; or fill the shell
with an ice or ice cream and gar-
nish with fruit.

Sent, with recipes and direc-
tions, postpaid, for two (2) new
subscriptions. Cash Price $1.50.

3 Pint Aluminum Sauce Pan

First Class Heavy Spun Aluminum

Sent, postpaid, as premium for one (1) new
subscriber. Cash price 75c.

3 Pint Aluminum Double Boiler

A heavy, superior
article. An absolute
necessity in every
kitchen. Sent, prepaid, as
premium for two (2) new
subscriptions. Cash Price
$1.50.

Patent Individual Charlotte Russe Moulds

Can be used, not only in making charlotte russe, but for many other
dishes.

Wherever individual moulds are called for, you can use these.

The moulds we offer are made by a patent process. They have no
seams, no joints, no solder. They are as near perfection as can be had.

A set of six (6) Patent Charlotte Russe Moulds will be sent postpaid
for two (2) new subscriptions. Cash Price $1.50.

GOLDEN ROD CAKE PAN

i>^-'^*wr-=!»r"ss:-^c5^

For "Waldorf Triangles," "Golden Rod Cake,"
"Orange Slice Cake" and many other fancy cakes.
Substantially made of the best tin. Two pans. Sent,
postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75c
for two pans.

REMOVABLE RING MUFFIN PAN

Made of best quality blued steel. Strong and durable. Size
12 rings 2f inches diam. Pan 8j inches by 11 inches. Rings
are removable, pan may be used for cake or candy making.
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75c.

rHE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

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157

AMERICAN COOKERY

PREMIUMS

PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES

(Bag not shown in cut)

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made
especially for Bakers and Caterers. Eminently suit-
able for home use.

The set sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE A. M. C.
ORNAMENTER

two (2) new subscriptions.
Cash price, $1.50

"RAPIDE"
TEA INFUSER

Economic, clean and con
venient. Sent, prepaid, fo
one (1), subscription. Caslj
price, 75 cents.

CAKE ORNAMENTING SYRINGE

For the finest cake decorating. Twelve German
silver tubes, fancy designs. Sent, prepaid, for four (4)
new subscriptions, Cash price, $3.00.

The only reliable and sure way to make Candy,
Boiled Frosting, etc., is to use a

THERMOM ETEH

Here is just the one you need. Made!
especially for the purpose by one of thei
largest and best manufacturers in the!
country. Sent, postpaid, for two (2)
new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.50.

HOME CANDY MAKING
OUTFIT

Thermometer, dipping wire, moulds, and
most of all, a book written by a professional
and practical candy maker for home use. Sent,
prepaid for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash
price, $3.00.

FRUIT CUTTER

Cores and splits apples, pears and
quinces into six pieces with one opera-
tion. Silver plated, turned wooden
tray. Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

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158

ADVERTISEMENTS

PREMIUMS

The Empire Grape Fruit and Orange Knife

Is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered,
curved just to the right angle and ground to a very keen
edge, will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly
around the edge and divide the fruit into segments ready
for eating. The feature of the blade is the round end,
which prevents cutting through the outer skin. A grape
fruit knife is a necessity, as grape fruit are growing so
rapidly in popularity as a breakfast fruit. Sent, post-
paid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 50 cents.

Empire Kitchen Knives

Highly polished rubberoid finished
handles.

These knives have blades forged from
the finest cutlery steel, highly tempered
and ground to a very keen edge. These
Knives will cut. Two knives, as shown
above, sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash Price 50 cents.

A SET OF 24 TINS

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash Price, 75 cents.

FRENCH
BUTTER CURLER

Unique and Convenient

The easiest way to serve butter.
Full directions with each curler.

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new sub-
scription. • Cash Price, 75 cents.

PRINCESS PATTY TINS

FOR BROWNIES OR
OTHER SMALL CAKES

BROWNIES

1 Egg, well beaten
1 cup of Flour
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or
Walnuts

Mix in the usual manner, but without separating
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press
half a nut meat into the top of each cake.

J cup of Butter
^ cup of Sugar
J cup of Molasses
(dark)

MAGIC
COVER

for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin; chemically
treated and hygienic; recommended by leading
teachers of cooking. Saves flour, time and patience.
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash
Price, 75 cents.

ROTARY

MINCING

KNIFE

Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect-
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables,
etc., and the shield frees the knives from the
materials being cut.

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash Price 75 cents.

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159

AMERICAN COOKERY

U )»1S BY THE ?a;:TI

VORY SOAP is the safe, thorough cleanser
for baby's bottles for the same reasons that
it is so satisfactory for washing his clothes
and his soft, pink skin — because it is as pure and
mild and efficient as soap can be.

For forty years mothers have depended on Ivory
Soap to keep his little young lordship and all his
possessions in that state of perfect, immaculate
cleanliness that makes for utmost comfort, health
and happiness. Ivory never has disappointed that
trust, as millions of mothers can testify.

c •.: SSATI

IVORY SOAP.

. 99&* PURE

Factories at Ivorydale, O.; Port Ivory, N. Y.; Kansas City, Kans.; Hamilton, Canada

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160

ADVERTISEMENTS

Cream

tinted by K. R. Wireman for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1012 by Cream of Wheat Co.

CREAM OF WHEAT FOR "SAIL"

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161

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV OCTOBER, 1919 No. 3

CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER

PAGE

THE CHARM OF THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY. 111.

Mary H. Northend 171

ONE SUMMER DAY Dorothy Habersham 176

PEPPS' PITILESS PROSPERITY Ladd Plumley 177

WHY IS FRENCH COOKERY EXTOLLED? . . . Kurt Heppe 181

SOMETHING NEW FOR THE HALLOWEEN PARTY

Alice Urquhart Fewell 184

LESSONS IN FOOD AND COOKERY — THE APPLE

Anna Barrows 186

DISHWASHING IN LITERATURE AND ELSEWHERE

Mrs. G. L. Washburn 188

EDITORIALS 190

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 193

MENUS FOR WEEK IN OCTOBER 202

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS . . . Wealtha A. Wilson 203

THE ART OF THE CHOPPING-BOWL . . F. M. Christiansen 204

SAFE AND SANE CANNING AND PRESERVING

Emma Gary Wallace 205

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 207

Made at Butchering Time — Improving Butter Beans — Cider
Apple-Butter without Cider — Fig Preserves — The Acid Test.

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 210

THE SILVER LINING 218

MISCELLANEOUS 226

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy Q%

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

162

ADVERTISEMENTS

Jf you could cook and never make mistakes,

And rid yourself of troubles that oppress;
Jf you could bake breads, puddings, pies and cakes

To satisfy — and make your outlay less;
Jf you could learn the secret of judicious buying

And save the dollars that you otherwise would spend,
Jf you could win your way by simply trying —

What would you give to further such an end ?

$2.50
for Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book ?

It would be well worth it. A big book of 731 pages, 1500 original recipes, covering
every possible phase and condition of cookery. Each recipe has been tested and proved
by Mrs. Rorer. Valuable and easily-understood directions are also given for buying, pre-
paring, cooking and serving every kind of food.

The illustrations are made an important feature. They are useful and helpful. One
set of pictures shows how to dress a table for a course dinner ; another set how to carve
meats, poultry, fish and game ; and many others illustrate numerous methods and dishes

in the text.

Over 700 Pages Cloth Bound, $2.50 By Mail, $2.70

SOME MORE OF MRS. RORER'S BOOKS

VEGETABLE COOKERY AND MEAT SUB-
STITUTES

This book goes into the whole subject of vege-
table cookery. A bewildering array of choice
and novel recipes. Also substitutes for meat.
Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65

CANNING AND PRESERVING

Tells how to can and preserve fruits and vege-
tables; Marmalades, Jams, Fruit Butters and
Jellies, Syrups, Catsups; Drying, Pickling, etc.
Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES, ETC.

Philadelphia and Neapolitan Ice Creams, Water
Ices, Frozen Puddings and Fruits, Sherbets,
Sorbets, Sauces, etc.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

HOME CANDY MAKING

Here is the book that is needed in the home, if

there is the desire for good, wholesome candy.

Cloth, 75-cts. ; by mail, 80 cts.

KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY

A new-plan cook book. Its very simplicity will
commend it to housewives for it saves time and
worry.

Cloth, $1.25; by mail, $1.40

CAKES, ICINGS AND FILLINGS

Contains a large number of enticing and valu-
able recipes for cakes of all sorts and condi-
tions. No fear of results. Follow directions
and your cake is bound to come out right.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

DAINTIES

Contains Appetizers, Canapes, Vegetable and
Fruit Cocktails, Cakes, Candies, Creamed
Fruits, Desserts, Frozen Puddings, etc.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

BREAD AND BREAD MAKING

Bread, biscuits, buns, rolls, puffs, quick breads,
steamed breads; everything in bread.

Cloth, 75 cts. ; by mail, 80 cts.

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

163

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR OCTOBER

Apple, The ......

Art of the Chopping-Bowl, The .
Charm of the Beacon Hill Doorway, The
Dishwashing in Literature and Elsewhere
Editorials ......

Home Ideas and Economies

Lessons in Food and Cookery — ■ The Apple

Menus ......

Miscellaneous .....

One Summer Day ....

Pepps' Pitiless Prosperity

Safe and Sane Canning and Preserving

Silver Lining, The ....

Something New for the Halloween Party
Why is French Cookery Extolled?

PAGE
186

204
171
188
190
207
186
202, 203
226
176
177
205
218
184
181

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

Apple Charlotte. 111.

Apple Slump ....

Apples, Ginger Baked. 111.

Cake, Delicate, with Fudge Frosting. 111.

Cake, Fudge, with Fruit and Marshmallow

Filling .....

Cake, Spice .....
Carrot Pie .....
Carrot Pudding ....
Cream, Ginger ....
Dumplings, Onion, with Potato Crust. Ill
Firmety .....

Fruit Whip, Proportions for .
Icing, Chocolate ....

197 Marmalade, "Penrod and Sam"
201 Marmalade, "Torchy" .

196 Oysters a la Mornay. 111.

198 Paste, Potato, for Onion Dumplings, Mea

and Vegetable Pies

199 Pie, Carrot . _ '.

200 Pie, Raisin, with Meringue

201 Pie, Veal-and-Ham
201 Potatoes a l'Otero. 111.

197 Pudding, Carrot .
196 Sauce, Mornay
194 Steak, Yankee Boy, with Brussels Sprouts

198 111

200 Whips, Uncooked Fruit. 111. .

201
201
195

196
201
197
193
194
201
195

194
198

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Brandy Substitute for Fruit Cake and Plum

Pudding .....
Cake, Angel .....
Cake, Cocoa, with Baking Powder
Cake, Fruit, without Preservatives
Cake, Honevmoon

214
212
210
214
212

Cake, Sunshine

Carrots, Pickled

Filling for Honeymoon Cake

Pudding, Plum

Salad, Ginger Ale

212
216
214
214
210

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

164

ADVERTISEMENTS

Four Invaluable Cook Books

New Edition

THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL

COOK BOOK

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER

"»*tt

CookB^

KITCHENETTE COOKERY

By ANNA MERRITT EAST

Formerly New Housekeeping Editor,
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great value to all city dwellers in these days, when
the elimination of waste in food is one of the
greatest problems we face." — New York Sun.

With 32 pages of illustrations. $1.25 net

THE CANDY COOK BOOK

By ALICE BRADLEY

Principal of
Miss Farmers School of Cookery

THE recipes in " The Candy Cook Book " are
wholesome, practical, and the directions are
so clear that the veriest amateur may be confi-
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Illustrated. $1.25 net

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING

By JANET McKENZIE HILL

Author of " Cooking for Two," " The Book of Entrees," " Salads, Sandwiches and
Chafing Dish Dainties," " The Up-to-Date Waitress."

IN this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented by a teacher
of cookery, and an experienced housekeeper, with garden vegetables and fruits in abundance at
her command. It may be said to contain the latest word on the subject, and is submitted to house-
keepers everywhere as a thoroughly reliable and trustworthy guide in tne latest and best ways of
storing and preserving fruits and vegetables.

Recommended by the American Library Association: — "Aims to present the latest ideas on the
subject, using the methods found to be simplest and shortest by the experiments of the U. S. De-
partment of Agriculture, state universities and cooking experts."

Illustrated from photographs. 12mo., Cloth. $1.25 net.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Books on Household Economics

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a
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American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef,
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cloth and rollers 10.

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup. . . . 1.

Art and Economy in Home Decorations.
Priestman 1.

Art of Entertaining. Madame Merri. . . 1.

Art of Home Candy- Making (with ther-
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Art of Right Living. Richards

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband.
Weaver and LeCron 1

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the
Home. H. W. Conn

Better Meals for Less Money. Greene

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill . . .

Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln . .

Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.
Fannie M. Farmer 2

Bread and Bread-Making. Mrs. Rorer.

Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott

Business, The, of the Household. Taber 2

Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 1

Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts.
King

Cakes, Pastry and Dessert Dishes. Janet
^ M. Hill

Candies and Bonbons. Neil

Candy Cook Book. Alice Bradley

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer . .

Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making.
^ Hill

Canning, Preserving and Pickling.
Marion H. Neil

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E.
Holt, M.D

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln

Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer

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Chafing-Dish Possibilities. Farmer
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Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu

Williams 1.50

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning.

Richards and Elliot 1.00

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 2.00
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition.

Sherman 2.00

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75

Clothing for Women. L. I. Baldt 2.50

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill. . . .75
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . 1.75

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00

Cost of Shelter. Richards $1.00

Course in Household Arts. Sister

Loretto B. Duff 1.10

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity.

Thompson 1.25

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3.00

Domestic Art in Women's Education.

Cooley 1.40

Domestic Science in Elementary

Schools. Wilson 1.00

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon... 2.00
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 1.00

Easy Entertaining. Benton 1.25

Economical Cookery. Marion Harris

Neil 1.75

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid to

Cooking. Robertson 1.00

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25

Elements of the Theory and Practice of

Cookery. Williams and Fisher 1.20

Encyclopaedia of Foods and Beverages. 10.00
Equipment for Teaching Domestic

Science. Kinne 80

Etiquette of New York Today. Learned 1.50

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 75

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.... 1.50
Every Woman's Canning Book. Hughes .75
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.25

Feeding the Family. Rose 2.10

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R.

Manning : 1.00

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Con-
valescent. Fannie M. Farmer 2.00

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thompson 1.35

Food and Flavor. Finck 2.00

Food and Household Management.

Kinne and Cooley 1.20

Food and Nutrition. Bevier and Ushir 1.00

Food Products. Sherman 2.40

Food and Sanitation. Forester and

Wigley 1.00

Food and the Principles of Dietetics.

Hutchinson 4

Food for the Worker. Stern and Spitz.

Food for the Invalid and the Convales-
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Food Materials and Their Adultera-
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Food Study. Wellman

Food Values. Locke

Franco-American Cookery Book. Deliee

Fuels of the Household. Marian White

Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for

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House Furnishing and Decoration.

McClure and Eberlein 1.50

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Household Physics. Alfred M. Sutler. . 1.30

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25

Housekeeper's Handy Book. Baxter. . 1.00
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King's Caroline Cook Book 1.50

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50

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Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. Rose 1.10
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Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.50

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Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs.

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Marketing and Housework Manual.

S. Agnes Donham 1.75

Mrs. Allen's Cook Book. Ida C. Bailey

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More Recipes for Fifty. Smith 1.50

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer. ..... 2.00

New Hostess of Today. Larned 1.50

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice.

Isabels and Robb $2.00

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster. . 1.00

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Old Time Recipes for Home Made

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50

Philadelphia Cook Book. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.50
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Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs.

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School Feeding. Bryant 1.50

Selection and Preparation of Food.

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Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn 50

Successful Canning. Powell 2.50

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.35

Table Service. Allen 1.35

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AMERICAN COOKERY

jt{aAe mowi

AxrLtrL^

^tou will get through
sooner, have a cleaner
house, and he less tired
if you use Old Dutch

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

168

The Season's End

Closed the summer byways

To the straying feet,
Only dreams may wander, love,

Where the hours were sweet —
Ah, the golden moments,

Gold of dreams they were,
Scattered where the flowers

Wooed the loiterer!

Silent are the thickets;

In the twilight hush,
We shall hear no more, love,

The fluting of the thrush —
Ah, the voiceless silence,

How it brings again
Lilt as if the fairies

Sang within the glen!

Closed the summer byways,

Silence in the vale,
On the hills the fires, love,

Of the autumn pale —
Ah, the joy of knowing

In our hearts we keep
Blooms that winter's sickle

Nevermore shall reap!

— Arthur Wallace Peach.

169

THE SQUARE PORCH — A
FINE EXAMPLE OF CO-
LONIAL DOORWAY
I -

merican

Cook

ery

VOL. XXIV

OCTOBER

No. 3

The Charm of the Beacon Hill Doorway

By Mary H. Northend

WE love to linger over the roman-
tic storv connected with Beacon
Hill, recalling the time when
it was the heart of military, social and
literary life. In the earliest days, when
war was rife, the military pitched their
tents on this goodly eminence, and their
sentries paced up and down, ever
watchful over land and sea, to announce
the approach of any invading foe.
Crowning the top of the Hill was a high
mast, surmounted by a beacon (from
which it took its name). This was first
erected in 1634, and was used extensively
until after the Revolution. When fired,
it could be seen at a great distance
inland.

Originally Beacon Hill comprised over
one hundred acres, and was used prin-
cipally for the pasturing of cattle.
Small cedars and native shrubbery grew
along its sides, broken here and there
by cow-paths, through which the wan-
dering herds ranged unmolested. It
abounded with fine springs, which are
mentioned in all the early records.
While all of these have been filled in,
after a heavy rain they can be seen
bubbling up through the surface.

Nestled on the land side is a tract of
land, now known as the Public Garden,
laid out with charming landscape effects,
into which have been introduced beauti-
ful flower plots and smooth velvety
lawns. Years ago, rope walks covered
this space, reaching to the water that
washed Charles Street. Beyond, an
extension of these grounds, is the Com-
mon, the training field of the early
days, and used also as a cow-pasture.

John Hancock, owner of the entire
Hill, but subject to protracted litiga-
tion during the twenty-five years of
his residence there, always pastured
his cows on the Common. Many a
scene, romantic, historic and tragic, is
connected with this public property, for
from here the troops embarked in
silence for the memorable battle of
Lexington. On the Common the forces
were also arrayed that engaged at
Bunker Hill, and many a tall fellow
heard the drums beat the rappel for
the last time, as he shouldered his
firelock and fell in the ranks on that
eventful morning.

THE RECEDED DOORWAY

171

172

AMERICAN COOKERY

When Lord Harry was in Boston,
encamped here, he wrote that "Our
camp is pitched in an exceedingly
pleasant situation on a large common
used for the purpose of grazing cows,
and ofttimes they attempt to force
their way into their old pasture,
where the richest herbage I have ever
seen, abounds. One of them impaled
herself on a firelock, going off with the
bayonet, sticking in her side."

Beacon Hill is now divided into a series
of straight streets, all of which are lined
with charming homes, some dating back
to late eighteenth and early nineteenth
century. The most prominent of these
thoroughfares, Beacon Street, at first
lacked the aristocratic designation of
today, for it was styled the "Lane to the
Almshouse," which lay near the foot of
the Hill.

Chestnut and Mt. Vernon run parallel
with Beacon, cutting across to the river,
and, though lacking uniformity, both
make a charming picture, for they are
English enough to be a part of London,
yet have all the native dignity found in

ANOTHER FORM OF RECEDED DOORWAY

Salem. Here men and women of re-
finement and culture have founded their
homes, including, in later days, Julia
Ward Howe, Charles Francis Adams,
Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, Thomas Bailey
Aldrich, Oliver Wendell Holmes, while
for many years William Clafflin, Governor
of Massachusetts, made it his home.
Much of its literary atmosphere comes
from the fact that the Quaker poet,
Whittier, always stayed here when visit-
ing Boston.

Among the many fine residences one is
impressed by the extreme simplicity and
often austerity connected with the ex-
terior of the houses.

William Blackstone Epes, the first
settler on the peninsula, in 1626, chose
the southwest slope of the Hill for his
residence, and a few years later it was
agreed that he should have fifty acres of
land set out for him to enjoy.

There were no brick sidewalks in
those days, except in a part of the main
streets, all of which were paved with
pebbles, and except when driven to one
side by carts and carriages, everybody
walked in the middle of the road, where
it was smoothest — ■ there were prac-
tically no sidewalks until after the Revo-
lution.

During the twenty years that elapsed
between 1770 and 1790, when the streets
were red with blood, Beacon Hill com-
placently overlooked the riotous scenes,
witnessing many stirring events, among
which was the reckless and murderous
raid on Lexington and Concord.

It was about that time that cocked
hats, wigs and red coats were usually
worn by the gentlemen, and except for
American military men, boots were
rarely seen. During the winter months
coats were made warm and stiffened with
buckram, coming to the knees in front.
Even the boys wore wigs and cocked
hats until about 1790, and the toilettes
of the ladies were very elaborate. Their
hair was arranged on crape cushions,
standing up so high that they were fre-
quently forced to dress it the day before

THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY

a party, sleeping in easy chairs to keep it
in good condition.

Elisha Cook, who married Elizabeth,
the daughter of Governor Leverett, and
contemporary of Samuel Eliot, grand-
father of Ex-President Eliot of Harvard, a
very rich merchant, erected a magnificent
residence on the corner of Beacon and
Tremont Streets, from which he was
forced to flee in 1776 to seek refuge with
his daughter in Haverhill. He was a
true gentleman of the old school, dressing
until his death in the costume of the
early days, wearing cocked hat, ruffled
shirt and small clothes, but never coat
or overcoat. Even Copley, the artist,
whose home was on the Hill, always ap-
peared on the streets in a cloth coat of fine
maroon ornamented with gilt buttons.

Among the first houses built on the
Hill was a handsome stone mansion
erected by Thomas Hancock, a wealthy
Boston merchant, uncle of our Revolu-
tionary hero. This was built in 1737,
the estate originally bounding on Beacon,
Mt. Vernon and Joy Streets, including the
grounds on which the State House is now
built. At the back of the house the
first nursery in the city came into exist-
ence. The house was bequeathed to his
nephew, the Governor, by his aunt, Lydia
Hancock, and remained for a long time a
unique setting for the Common. The
house was built of stone, while gardens
and orchards surrounded the princely
mansion, but it was eventually torn down
on account of the site being so valuable.

The following description has been
left by an inmate of the Hancock house:

"As you entered the Governor's man-
sion, to the right was the drawing or
reception room, with furniture of bird's-
eye maple covered with red damask.
Out of this opened the dining room hall
referred to, in which Hancock gave the
famous breakfast to Admiral D'Estaing
and his officers. Opposite this was a
smaller apartment, the usual dining
hall of the family; next adjoining were
the china room and offices with coach
house and barn behind. At the left of

No. 66 MOUNT VERNON STREET

the entrance was a second saloon, or
family drawing room, the walls covered
with crimson paper. The upper and
lower halls were hung with pictures of
game, hunting scenes, and other sub-
jects. Passing through this hall, an-
other flight of steps led through the
garden to a small summerhouse close to
Mt. Vernon Street. The grounds were
laid out in ornamental flower beds
bordered with box; box trees of large
size, with a great variety of fruit, among
which were several immense mulberry
trees, dotted the garden."

In this house Hancock entertained
D'Estaing in 1778, Lafayette in 1781,
and Washington in 1789, besides many
other noted men. He was noted for his.
princely hospitality, and when the French
officers were in Boston it is said that
about forty dined with him every day.
On one occasion an unusual number ap-
peared to partake of his viands, when,
in the language of Madame Hancock,
"the common was bedizened with lace."
The cooks were driven to despair, and
the exigency was met by milking the

174

AMERICAN COOKERY

cows pastured on the Common. Whether
this was agreeable to the various owners
or not, we do not know.

At the time of the Battle of Lexington
this house was pillaged by soldiers, who
broke down and mutilated the fence,
until General Gage sent Percy to occupy
it. About this time an order was re-
ceived from the King for Hancock's
apprehension, and a second one to hang
him, but on account of his popularity he
escaped.

When he was dying, he called an old
friend and dictated to him the minutes
of his will, in which he expressly gave
his mansion house to the Commonwealth,
but death intervened before his inten-
tion could be carried out. It was pur-
chased from his heirs, years later, for
the site of the State House.

Beacon Hill is still old and full of
flavor, although a great deal that was
once charming and notable has been
swept away by the growth of population.

The home of Prescott, the eminent
historian, was at 55 Beacon Street, and
still stands today. A deeper interest

STEPS LEAD TO THIS DOORWAY

attaches to the labors of this giftec
author on account of his partial blindness
caused by an injury to his eye while ai
Harvard. All efforts to improve hi;
sight were of no avail, and he performec
his work with the aid of an amanuensis
He was a grandson of the old soldier o:
Louisburg and Bunker Hill, and by i
coincidence married a granddaughter o;
Captain Linzee, who commanded the
Falcon at the battle just named.

What the society of Beacon Hill was
in the last century may be gathered from
the testimony of a keen observer of thai
period.

Count Segur says that "Boston affords
a proof that democracy and luxury arc
not incompatible, for in no part of the
United States is so much comfort or a
more agreeable society to be found
Europe does not offer, to our admiration
women adorned with greater beauty
elegance, education or more brillianl
accomplishments than the ladies here.'
M. de Chastellus, a gallant Frenchman
also pays suitable acknowledgments tc
the ladies of Beacon Hill, while both men
unite in eulogy of Adams, Hancock, Dr.
Cooper and other leading spirits whom it
was their good fortune to meet.

Lafayette during his visit to Boston
was intimately connected with this part
of the city, for he was the guest of Samuel
Dexter, one of the greatest lawyers
Massachusetts has ever seen, and who,
Judge Story said, "never descended to
finesse or cunning before a Jury."
Christopher Gore, while Governor of
Massachusetts, also lived at this same
house, on the corner of Beacon and
Park Streets.

To the lover of fine architecture there
are no better representatives of door-
ways than those that are found on
Beacon Hill, for they vary in type from
Colonial to Twentieth Century. There
are wooden doorways with elliptical fan-
lights and leaded side lights, framed by
Doric and Corinthian pilasters, toppec
by doorheads, in which carved decora-
tions give a characteristic touch, while

THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY

175

let-in panels at the lower part of the
sides give a more solid and substantial
look, and increase the apparent breadth
of the doorway, foretelling a cheerful
interior. They all give a sense of re-
serve and distinction that is interesting,
and carry us back to the days when our
forefathers settled in this country after
a long and tempestuous voyage across
the seas.

Brick seems to be the prevailing ma-
terial used for these old houses, the red
of the brick combining effectively with
the green of the blinds, and the old green
entrance door, typical of the early
nineteenth century, bull's-eye being often
used in the upper panels.

The mansion of the late David Sears
commands attention; it is now being
used as a club-house. It is built on the
site of the home of John S. Copley, who
owned one of the largest estates on the
Hill. During his residence in Boston he
married the daughter of Richard Clark,
a rich merchant, and one of the obnoxious
tea consignees who fell into disgrace at the
time the tea was all "pitched" into
Boston Harbor. In the old two-story
house that formerly stood here he painted
some of his finest works, probably the
portraits of Hancock and Adams. While
living in London, he was offered by a
speculator what seemed a fabulous sum
for the place, but he learned after he
had sold it that it was worth twenty times
the amount he received for it, and it is
said this hastened his death.

The first house built of brick, and also
under the Copley title, was that of John
Phillips, who was afterwards the first
Mayor of Boston; this was built in 1804.
Phillips did much to improve a large por-
tion of the Hill at the commencement of
the nineteenth century. His distinguished
son, Wendell Phillips, was born in this
house in 1811, and lived there until his
father's death in 1823. After the house
was sold, Thomas Winthrop, Lieutenant
Governor of Massachusetts, resided here,
but his family increased so rapidly that
he was enforced to enlarge his residence,

No. 56 BEACON STREET

and changed the location of the front
door from Beacon to Walnut Street.
This prominent landmark is still found
on Beacon Hill.

Near the State House, which was built
by Bulfinch, lived Dr. Joy, who did
much to build up that part of the city.
His wife was much averse to living "so
far out of town"; as theirs was but the
fourth house at the time, she exacted a
promise from the Doctor to return to the
residential section at no distant day.

Many of these old-time houses stood
close to the sidewalk, while others were set
back from the street, and were approached
by a flight of steps. Such was the man-
sion of the Colonel Lieutenant Governor
Phillips, whose estate was one of the most
popular, during the time of his residency.
It was shaded by magnificent trees,
which were cut down by the British and
used as fuel.

In the early days this was a favorite
resort for the citizens, as the view was
considered equal to anything found
across the seas. These same sights are
visible today, but must be viewed

176

AMERICAN COOKERY

his estate on the Hill was known as
Sewall Elm Pasture. He married Eliza,
daughter of John Hull, the celebrated
mintmaster, who it is said gave her as her
wedding portion her weight in pine tree
shillings; so the story goes, in order to get
full payment, she weighted down her
pockets with flat-irons.

But it is not noted men and women,
but unique doorways with which this
article is particularly concerned. When
you consider that for a hundred years
after its settlement Boston was little
more than a straggling town, it seems
almost incredible that today it should
be so wonderfully prolific in fascinating
doorways, which break the monotony
of street scenes as you view them from
the sidewalk.

While Colonial architecture may be

considered the distinguishing feature of

these structures, there is little similarity

filigree of leaded glass in them, and it is this fact that causes

from the cupola above the dome of you to linger, as you saunter along this

the State House. famous part of Boston familiarly known

Chief Justice Samuel Sewall was a man as "Beacon Hill," and view these ex-

of great importance in the Colony, and amples of exceptional workmanship.

One Summer Day

As I went through the summer wood
Where two paths met an old man stood,
"Greet you, greet you, and good-day,
How do you fare and what's your way?"

I paused awhile in the summer wood,
And told the old man what he would;
"Greet you, greet you, and good-day,
I'll go with you along the way."

At edge of night and the summer wood

The old man vanished, the elf-king stood;

"Greet you, greet you, and good luck,

You've shared your bread this day with Puck!"

Since that day in the summer wood,
Wherever I go my luck holds good;
Greet you, greet you, and good-day,
I hope you meet with him some day!

— Dorothy Habersham.

Pepps' Pitiless Prosperity

By Ladd Plumley

THERE were figures near a door-
way, and as he came opposite,
Mr. Pepps was seized.

"Ye'll be coming wid us!" exclaimed
one of the captors. "Ye're to be taken
to a conference."

Mr. Pepps recognized a voice which
that evening had thrown a verbal brick
to the platform where he was lecturing.

After Mr. Pepps retired from business,
if it be truthful to say he ever retired, the
financier gloried in giving advice con-
cerning a subject he knew thoroughly.

He began life as an economist — in
a contributed cradle and on philan-
thropic milk. The institution discarded
him in his 'teens with a five dollar bill,
and never afterward did he own less than
five dollars. This evening his hearers
expected to hear how to eat beef five
times a week, — what they got was how to
do without much of anything at any
time. The lecturer pulled off his gar-
ment of reserve and turned it wrongside
out. He told how, in his youthful days,
he cut his own hair, how he washed his
handkerchiefs, saving the soapy water for
next time. He suggested lengthening
the life of socks by wearing two pairs at
once; he illustrated folding a frayed
necktie so as to present a neat appearance;
he reveled in soup made of sour milk.
And it was then that the voice he recog-
nized had interrupted, "But yez put
solid food in yer belly, 'cause ye're living
yet!"

Amid the ash cans Mr. Pepps blustered,
but a second man, who threw out a sug-
gestion of whiskey, seized his other arm,
and he was hustled up the steps of one
of those small houses which are found
to the east of the city. The door was
thrown open and the prisoner was guided
to a room where the flaring gas showed
broken-bottomed chairs and a bedstead

of pealing enamel. Here he was pushed
into a chair.

"What's the meaning of this outrage?"
he demanded.

The man who acted as leader stepped
to the door, outside of which was heard

a movement.

Tis naught, Mrs. Sullivan, me friends
and Tim O'Hara will be free at making
a night of it. Get to yez rest."

Retreating steps were heard, and
O'Hara locked the door. He took from
the mantel pipes and tobacco. "Will
yez be smoking, Mr. Pepps?" he asked.

"No indeed! Smoking is burning
money!"

"'Tis a conference," replied O'Hara.
"The weed oils me mind. As to your
interrogatory, the chair app'ints Phil
Noonan to sez why Mr. Pepps is here."

Mr. Noonan's explanation suggested
whiskey more strongly than did his
breath, and O'Hara came to his relief.
"As how, Mr. Pepps, ye couldn't be
expected to sense the scheme, Noonan
being for the most part in the saloon,
where, indade, yez loquacity drove many.
'Twas there the plot was hatched, as
how we'll put to the test yer deductions."

"You'll put what to the test?" snapped
Mr. Pepps.

" 'Tis this way," continued O'Hara.
"The big war's turned things topsy-
turvy. WTimen voting, and beer with the
kick gone! 'Tis the day of experimenta-
tions." He turned to Noonan. "Was
it four, Phil, that Muldowney left when
the munition factory went up?':

" 'Twas four, and a babe in arms,"
mumbled Noonan.

"So! She's a fine woman, is Mrs.
Muldowney!"

"What's the woman got to do with
it?" demanded Mr. Pepps.

" She's a fine woman," repeated O'Hara.

177

178

AMERICAN COOKERY

" But 'tis dirty luck she's had. Buryings
come higher than ever, and Muldowney
isn't complainin' concerning his. And
sickness wid the kids! Dirty luck for
widow Muldowney!"

"But what has the widow got to do
with me?" pursued Mr. Pepps.

O'Hara did not seem to hear the
question. "And now, Noonan, yer wife's
waiting and ye'll best be going," he said.
"I'll make up a bit of a bed for Mr. Pepps."

"What!" exclaimed the financier.
"I'm not going to sleep here!"

"Indade and yez will," replied O'Hara.
"And I thought as how ye'd sensed the
project."

"I understand nothing but that I've
been brought here without my consent."

O'Hara explained. " 'Tis I that am
yer boss, Mr. Pepps. I'm a paper
hanger. I'll enter yez into the union as
me apprentice, Noonan is yer mate.
Ye'll do well, for I'll pay yez three
seventy-five a day. That gives the
twenty, and two fifty each week for
tobacco and beer. The widow Mul-
downey and her kids ye'll support.
We'll see if yez figuring, and yez theo-
retics, and yez economics'll be worth one
blessed damn!"

At last Mr. Pepps understood. In
his lecture he had expressed his wish to
try out just such an experiment. He
proved that twenty dollars was more
than sufficient for a family like Mrs.
Muldowney's. He guided such a family
for years, burying one child and acting
as the stork for another. So ample,
indeed, was the income that when the
stork appeared for another visit, it
dropped its burden in a cottage owned
by the twenty-dollar man. His wealth
of economical detail led to his capture,
for worn out with waiting for the family
to own the cottage, and a pretty girl
happening along, Mr. Pepps' chauffeur
took her for a ride, and the financier was
obliged to start for home on his feet.

"So that's the idea!" snapped Mr.
Pepps. "So you think that I cannot
support a family on twenty, dollars?"

You're forgetting the cottage," re-
minded O'Hara.

"I'm forgetting nothing," snapped
Mr. Pepps. "There's not the slightest
difficulty."

"'Tis ye'll agree?"

"Expect me to jump into an experi-
ment of this kind? If you'd gone at the
thing right — "

"Ye're forgetting that ye're Robert
Pepps and this was the only way for
chucking yez into it," said O'Hara.

Absurd as it might seem, the applica-
tion of his theories was alluring to Mr.
Pepps. He was used up with the many
activities he had assumed during the
war. For a few weeks, he considered,
the experiment would give him a needed
rest.

"I'm the man to try it out," he mused.
"But," he said, "of course, it's absurd
that I live here. I'll stay the night,
for it's late. And I'll take an occasional
meal, so as to make suggestions as to a
working-man's menu. To put the matter
on a correct basis, however, we'll fix
up things just as if I did live here. And
if I did, what would I pay for my board?"

O'Hara sucked on his pipe and a
shrewd gleam came into his eyes. "Mrs.
Sullivan charges five dollars a week for
table board. Being as it's just the same
as if you slept in me room, we'll be
making the board nine."

"You'll not," said Mr. Pepps. "Why
should I put four dollars a week into
your pocket? I'll need all I can scrape
for the widow. Make it one and as a
rest from war finance I'm hanged if I
won't go in — either party to give up the
deal at any time."

Two mornings later, prompt to the
second, and attired in a suit of O'Hara's
overalls, Mr. Pepps waited for his boss,
and within a few days things settled into
a routine. Every morning the appren-
tice was more prompt than Mrs. Sulli-
van's clock, which was a slow-time
measure, and which soon had the finan-
cier's attention amid his ocean of reforms.
He took to paper hanging as he took to

PEPPS' PITILESS PROSPERITY

179

all things. He rushed the jobs, and
O'Hara had difficulty to stay the hand
of the new apprentice. Forbidden to
use any of the nooning hour in paper
hanging, Mr. Pepps spent all but the
ten minutes he' allowed for his snack in
making memoranda as to the reforma-
tion of Mrs. Muldowney's, Mrs. Sulli-
van's, and O'Hara's affairs, or in adding
to the manuscript of a book he was
writing on economics. And very soon
the experiment trailed anything but joy
for the victims. It was as if they were
sociological insects, which the financial
naturalist had pinned on a board to
observe their economical struggles. His
evenings were too6 short for bargainings
[or supplies for Mrs. Muldowney and
Mrs. Sullivan, and for acting as adviser
to any one he could inveigle into O'Hara's
rcom. That laborer would be in bed
long before his apprentice's day ended,
and his snores would be an accompani-
ment to a lecture by the enthusiast to
a pupil, who had found no method of
escape.

Thus the days flew. Mr. Pepps*
devotion to his experiment increased and
increased, and before the experiment
rushed to a finish he so pervaded Mrs.
Sullivan's boarding house, and had so
taken everything under his jurisdiction
that, to make a historical comparison,
Mr. Pepps was a financial' Napoleon in
a financial petty Elba. All details of
the lives under Mrs. Sullivan's roof, of
Mrs. Muldowney's family, and of all
families he could poke his sharp nose
into, were analyzed, tabulated and criti-
cized. On a Saturday evening, when the
financial Elba had almost run its course,
and Mr. Pepps had gone to traffic for
supplies, O'Hara put the matter to his
other apprentice.

"He's a howling wonder! Every Sat-
urday he shows me the savings. How
does he contrive the miracle? 'Tis me
belief 'tis a kind of extry sense, same as
the fiddler in a show plays a fiddle up-
side down. And the savings are going
into property alongside the new subway

extension. Says he, 'The widow Mul-
downey's money'll go in wid me own.
If ye'll keep yer eyes pealed, ye'll see
hundreds come from tens and thousands
from hundreds.'

"And Mrs. Muldowney says he's the
best provider ever, but he's keeping down
every expense. He'll tell what's a suf-
ficient allowance for each wan of them
childer — different, mind yez, according
to their weight, and for every meal!
He's got her all figured down as fine as
I figger me wall-paper. But Airs.
Muldowney has to make an accounting
down to the last cent. She's driven out
of her peace wid keeping her accounts in
the books he's fixed up. As was her
words: 'We has food enough and we
has clothing enough — though where he
gits his bargains is a mystification! And
we has things we never had before the
munition factory busted. But, Mr.
O'Hara,' says Mrs. Muldowney, 'it's
sure the toilsome way for a widder to
make a living!'

"Yez sees, Noonan, she's at it night
after night wid her eldest and the bye's
quick at figgers, figuring to make her
balances, and if there's a difference of a
cent there's the devil of a ruction. At
times Mr. Pepps has a tongue like a
sarpint!"

For a few moments Mr. O'Hara leaned
back in his chair, then he gloomily
continued.

"He's taken to smoking, but he weighs
his tobacco. He isn't wanting it, said
he didn't have the handicap of using
tobacco. He allows hisself one cigarette
morning and nighr And I'm meself
like the widder Muldowney. What wid
being criticized for two beers a day —
two beers! And ither things! Why
man, me galluses give way, but do yez
suppose he'd allow me the luxury of a
new pair? Not on yez life. Last night
he was up till twelve putting in a section
of elastic webbing! Where the devil did
he learn to sew, Noonan? 'Tis me belief
that, if there was a ten-cent piece dan-
gling, he could teach hisself anything!"

180

AMERICAN COOKERY

Here O'Hara was interrupted, and
Mrs. Sullivan pushed the door open and
dropped into a chair.

"What's the matter ?" asked O'Hara.

Mrs. Sullivan turned her head and
listened.

"Yez'll have time to tell us — his car
isn't coming till midnight, wid his hag-
gling for a nickel."

"He says as secrecy is the motto for
business," groaned Mrs. Sullivan. "But
'tis time I had advice. The rebate, as he
calls it, has lifted to ten a week!"

"Ten!" gasped O'Hara. "That's five
more'n his board!"

"And he's wanting twelve. And whin
he's wanting anything he has elastic
bands to yank it. He's buying all me
supplies. I'm not saying but what
they're cheap. He's got screaching
powers! But I has me doubts where
it'll stop. Though to be fair, he earns
the twelve, and I've never made the
profits I'm making. But he's got his
eye on me bit of a settin' room, so as to
get another boarder. He says as how we
must bring up every inch of the plant to
its maximum earning capacity — as is
his way of saying me house is a plant to
be sittin' up nights to tend."

"Pore woman!" put in O'Hara.

"And what wid his cyard system —
every boarder on a cyard! How much he
weighs, and how much he eats and what
does him good, and all on a cyard! And
other systems — -books and accounts!
I'm that drove I can't do me dress-makin' ! "

"Pore woman!" again said O'Hara.

"Me life isn't worth the trouble,"
continued Mrs. Sullivan. "What wid
dreaming of cyards, I'm losing me sleep,
and what wid watchin' to an ounce what
me boarders eat, me own appetite's
slipping away. And measuring the milk,
and keeping watch wid eyes twisted
seven ways at oncet! I wish, Mr.
O'Hara, ye'd never brought him —
indade I do!"

Mrs. Sullivan lifted her apron and for
a few moments found it impossible to
continue.

"And Mrs. Muldowney is below taking
her cup of tea, weak as water and no
sugar for fear Mr. Pepps will cut her off
ontirely. Mr. Pepps thinks as her dys-
pepsia is due to tea. But the pore woman
needs even weak tea, what wid her own
devilments!"

"Ye'll bring her up!" exclaimed
O'Hara. "And what wid all the pother,
we'd best be having a meeting. I've
made a mistake, and the times's come
when we'll be requesting him to resign.
We've had a prosperity as has gripped
us to our innards. Speaking for meself,
'tis not Tim O'Hara as is wanting hun-
nards, thousands, or millions if the price
is what Mr. Pepps' teaching is showing!"

It was while the afflicted were discuss-
ing means for requesting the resignation
of their instructor that he entered.

"What bargains!" he gloated. "Cab-
bages for a nickel — fine heavy cabbages,
Mrs. Sullivan! I helped the Italian sell
his load and he gave me a rake-off. How
we got the women coming! That's life,
that is! Tonight I feel like a feller who
knows it's a park bench for him, if he
don't sell his filters in flat houses. If
I only had a Robert Pepps, Junior, I'd
turn over my plunder and start at the
bottom again. To buck the old world
without a cent and climb a second time!
I'll have to think that over. But I
must drop from the clouds. I must
grip the problem of the moment!" He
flitted about the room like a gaunt old
dog that is unleashed in a city park.

"And how is the card system . coming
along?" he asked Mrs. Sullivan. "It's
Saturday night and we've lots of time —
we'll get busy. There's a slew of matters,
Mrs. Sullivan, I wish to bring to your
attention!"

" 'Tis me wish to be courteous, Mr.
Pepps," interrupted O'Hara, "but 'tis
Mrs. Sullivan, pore woman, as is worn
out. Little wonder! Ah, Mr. Pepps,
if we all had yez ginger and push, we'd
all be living in palaces wid our pockets
full of gold. And 'tis yesself, Mr. Pepps,
as cannot perceive as how yer ginger and

FRENCH COOKERY

181

push wears the other parties to the
deal."

"I noticed when I came in that some-
thing was wrong," said Mr. Pepps, danc-
ing from Mrs. Sullivan to Mrs. Mul-
downey. "I thought that you were
worrying because I didn't get back
promptly — but when you see what a
boy and I have carted into the kitchen!
Oh, such bargains, such bargains!"

'Tis me wish to be courteous," re-
peated O'Hara, "but,yez sees,'Mr. Pepps,
the experiment has been too much of a

success. And we've been holding a
final conference, the upshot being that,
if yez'll call the deal off, we'll be that
•thankful! sure the hope is like the thought
of a quiet grave. I'll just be stepping'to
the corner to telephone for the auto^to
come for yez."

Mr. Pepps has given up practical in-
struction in the subject in which he is a
master. He confines himself to lectur-
ing, and he always ends his lectures with,
"Teach 'em young. You can't train
baldheads to walk tight-ropes."

Why is French Cookery Extolled?

A Lecture to Housewives
By Kurt Heppe

WE hear, in this country, so much
about French cookery and
about high salaried French
chefs, and many an American man and
woman stops to ask why, just why,
French cookery is so superior to our own.

To answer this question one must first
refer to a much cherished American pre-
judice, and that is the American Nat-
ional belief, that the catering business as
such "IS NOT WORTH CONSIDER-
ATION!"

It is because we believe that catering,
in all its branches, is below the level to
which the self-respecting American stoops,
in his search for a vocation; while, on the
other hand, the Frenchman considers it
a highly honorable and exceedingly re-
munerative profession, and consequently
devotes to it long years of earnest study.

Cookery, like everything else, improves
with intelligent practice. In order to
devote intelligent practice to any one
thing, one must first be intelligent, and
then willing to devote time, energy and
earnest effort to a certain thing.

It is right here, however, the American
cook "falls down" (as the darkies like
to say); it is right here that he fails.
Firstly, intelligent Americans, or let us
say, Americans capable of intelligent

efforts, do not choose cookery for a pro-
fession; and, secondly, those who do choose
it, do not care to make great efforts of
any kind, intelligent or otherwise.

And yet, French cookery, or good cook-
ing, to be more general, is really nothing
more than "hard work properly directed."

The French cook goes about his work
very much like the American, only he
makes certain manipulations that the
American considers superfluous; the
American cook dearly likes to use "sub-
stitutes," while the French cook uses only
genuine compositions, and makes these
himself. This entails work, nothing ex-
traordinary, but just hard, back-breaking
work. The French kitchen glories in
this, but, then, the French kitchen is, also,
superior.

Now to come down to facts, what are
the secrets of French cookery?

How is it that, given two equal pieces
of meat, a French and an American cook
in competition, the American must in-
variably leave the palm to the foreigner?

Why can the Frenchman make de-
licious sauces, while the American utterly
fails in this respect?

Again I must say it is due entirely to
"earnest effort, intelligently applied."

Most sauces, as few people know, are

182

AMERICAN COOKERY

made of meat, and of meat extract,
cunningly flavored and aromatized.
Understand me well, I say flavored and
aromatized, and I mean two entirely
different things by each one of these
expressions.

To flavor sauces one uses celery stalks,
onions, carrots, leeks and turnips, and
to aromatize sauces one uses bay leaves,
thyme, cloves, basil, sage, rosemary,
sweet marjoram, mace, juniper berries,
ginger and vanilla. Then there are a
few more aromatics, which are fre-
quently resorted to for this latter purpose,
but which are used fresh, only, these are,
chervil, parsley, taragon, pimpernel and
savory, also orange and lemon zest.

How many of these does the American
cook know? Very few, indeed! He will
probably accuse me that I forgot the
most important, namely "nutmeg," but
I did not forget it, only I want to say
that, while the American cook uses this
aromatic almost exclusively, the French
cook uses it most sparingly, it being of
far too pungent a character to warrant
its extensive use.

Now these few lines will give the house-
wife an idea of why French cookery can
achieve greater results than the Ameri-
can, but the main issue is as yet hidden.
What I am coming to is really the
main-spring of success, namely, "The
stock."

What is stock? I will tell you. It is
what the French cook uses where you
use water, dear Madam; that is the
reason why his soups and sauces taste so
different from yours. Don't get angry
because I am scolding you, but it is high
time you should learn. Listen to me a
little while longer and you will know a
few things which were a puzzle to you
heretofore.

The French cook makes his soups and
sauces very much alike. That is, he
uses in most of them stock, and stock
again is really a soup. In fact it is the
first brew won from a boiled infusion of
meat and bones and flavoring vegetables.

What did I say flavoring vegetables

were? Oh, yes, celery, carrots, leeks,
onions and turnips.

Well, then, to make a stock he takes
bones, crushes them, and cheap meat
cuts, grinds them, and vegetable trim-
mings for flavoring (as above mentioned),
and sets all to boil (well covered with
cold water). As soon as it boils, he puts
it on the side of the fire and lets it simmer
for four or five hours; every once in a
while he goes to work and carefully lifts
off the scum. ,

At the end of the four to five hours all
the strength and savor of the meat and
the bones, combined with the flavor of the
vegetables, is in the water, and this water
is now called stock. It is drawn off
carefully, so as to remain clear, and is
then set into a draught with a wedge
underneath, in order to cool quickly,
and is, when cold, put into the ice box.
Special stock-pots with a faucet are
handy, as the stock may be drawn off and
the flow shut off before the fat flows out.

Now, whenever the cook wants to fill
up on a sauce he uses some of this stock,
and in this manner gives it a fundamental
base of strength and flavor; and as the
sauce itself is made from bones and meat,
with aromatics, and with this stock for
a liquor, is it any wonder that it turns
out of wonderful quality, full of savory
and appetizing characteristics?

But not all sauces are made from stock
(some are made with milk), and not all
soups are made with stock (some are
really made with water, namely, legume
soups), but of this more later.

What I want to bring out in this article
is the fact that stock is the fundament
upon which French cookery is built;
without stock there would not be any
French cookery, and by the same token
there would not be any good cookery,
because stock and good cooking are
inseparable; the one cannot exist without
the other.

Please remember that whenever you
enter your kitchen, you ought always tc
have some good cold stock ready in your
ice box, in order to meet any emergency

FRENCH COOKERY

183

If you have that the rest is easy. Every-
thing else, or nearly everything else,
depends upon the stock.

For fish sauces one must make a fish
stock, that is, one uses fish trimmings
instead of meat trimmings; but no
vegetables are here employed, instead,
however, a few aromatics (an onion,
stuck with three cloves, a little celery and
parsley and a few whole black peppers).

For game sauces it is well to make a
game stock by. using the game trimmings
and superfluous bones; although an
ordinary beef stock is quite good; it
takes a real gourmet to know the dif-
ference, if the sauce itself is worked up
with a little game.

For fowl sauces one should use fowl
stock, although ordinary beef stock is
here, too, quite good enough; by the
same token may fowl carcases be used
with advantage in the beef stock.

The essence of this whole article is to
remind the cook that the first thing to
do in the morning is to put on the stock,
so that by eleven o'clock one's stock is
ready to make sauces, finish soups, etc.

Whenever you want to know if you
have a cook who knows something of his
business, see if he has his stock-pot at the
back of the range first thing every morn-
ing, for in any kitchen where proper work
is done this unfailing sign of efficient
work is never missing.

Now then, did I make myself plain?
The trouble with all cook-books is that
they pre-suppose an elementary knowl-
edge of cooking, and because this ele-
mentary knowledge is only too often
lacking, the recipes frequently turn out
badly. All cook-books are good, if the
neophyte already knows how to cook
(and uses the book simply for a reminder).
But to learn cooking from the printed
sheet, the teacher must be explicit, and
again explicit, and then some more
explicit. Therefore, excuse my seeming
repetitions.

Now, if at any time you have too much
stock on hand, let it reduce on the range
until it becomes meat-glace; this can be

long preserved and used the same way
as meat extracts, — its uses are many. It
may be used to coat cold roasts and also
hot fowl, etc. A luscious brown coat
enhances the appearance of cuts greatly.

It may, also, be used for certain sauces
by simply creaming and buttering it.

Gravies are made from the juices of
the roasting pan. In order to obtain a
proper article the roasting pan should be
just large enough for the roast (so that
the fat will not burn), and minced onions,
carrots and leeks should be used to deck
the roast, in order to give the resulting
gravy its taste. However, this method,
though best, seldom furnishes enough
gravy; it becomes, therefore, necessary
to prepare an artificial gravy. For this
purpose one uses the juices, plus all the
bones from roasted meats, and fowl
carcases, puts them into a stock-pot and
covers them with water. If not enough
bones are on hand, one must roast some
trimmings with flavoring vegetables and
use these instead. This method fur-
nishes a plentiful supply of very good
gravy; a little meat-glace will greatly
strengthen it. Only roasted bones must
be used, however.

Now to come back to our sauces, in
order to make a veloute sauce, for fri-
cassee, for instance, you put a saucepan
on the fire, with half butter and fowl fat;
add one heaping handful of flour per
gallon of stock you intend to use, that
means per gallon of sauce you_intend to
make, for a quarter gallon use a quarter
handful; add the flour when the butter
is bubbling, not before, stir the mixture
with a wire whisk, and keep at this
stirring until bubbles appear and the
mixture is very smooth. If it is not
smooth, it simply means that you have
not used enough fat; in that case heat
a little more fat in a separate pan, and
add it gradually — only fowl fat or butter
should be used. Now when the butter
and flour mixture is thus ready, add the
hot stock, but add it very gradually,
whisking hard all the while, as otherwise
you will have dumplings in your pan

184

AMERICAN COOKERY

instead of an even smooth sauce. When
the roux (as this mixture of flour and
butter is professionally called) is evenly
absorbed, and has cooked for about
fifteen minutes, add the yolks of some
eggs which have been kept smooth with
a little lemon juice. To do this right
you will have to dilute the egg-yolks
first, separately, with a little of the stock,
then take your sauce off the fire, and
when the bubbling stops, add the diluted
egg-yolks, very gradually; the sauce must
now not again be suffered to boil, as
otherwise the egg-yolks in it will clump
(this being a characteristic of egg-yolks);
they will act in this sometimes very
disagreeable way under all circumstances,
and it is, therefore, well never to forget
this little caprice of theirs.

The sauce is now spiced with a little

salt, white pepper and a very little nut-
meg. This is a most delicious sauce for
all sorts of fricassees, but for chicken
fricassee one best uses chicken stock, while
for veal fricassee one should use veal
stock, but any kind of meat stock will
do in an emergency.

This sauce can be turned into a veloute
soup by simply thinning it out with more
stock; and once it is soup, it can be
garnished in a hundred different ways,
giving it a different characteristic every
time.

Thus you see the fact illustrated that
sauces and soups have much in common.

In the next issue I shall enlarge upon
the usage of stock, and explain why some
sauces are made without stock, and why
some soups are made with water instead
of stock, or with milk.

Something New for the Halloween Party

By Alice Urquhart Fewell

WHAT shall we serve at the Hal-
loween party this year? It must
be new and different, and at the same
time appropriate to the occasion. Unique
refreshments, with something in the
nature of a surprise, are being sought by
every hostess who is planning to enter-
tain on Halloween, and the following
suggestions may help to solve the problem,
in part at least.

Orange Jack-o-Lantern

Illustration on Page 200

Select large, bright-colored oranges of
good shape, allowing one orange to each
person served. With a sharp knife cut
a small piece off the top of the orange, and
scoop out all the pulp with a spoon or
knife. Reserve the juice and pulp for
future use. With a penknife cut a face
on one side of the orange, as one would

on a pumpkin. Care must be taken not
to cut entirely through the rind of the
orange, and only the very thin yellow
skin on the outside should be removed,
leaving the white part underneath intact.
There must be no broken surface, as the
orange skins are to be filled again. The
juice from the oranges may now all be
extracted by putting the pulp in two
thicknesses of cheesecloth and squeezing
with the fingers. This juice is used for
making orange ice or sherbet, which is
served in the orange skins. Instead of
the ice, orange gelatine can be made, and
molded in the orange skins. Whipped
cream should be served on top, as shown
in the illustration.

Frozen Fruit Salad

Mix equal parts of apples, oranges,
pineapple and grapes, all cut in small

THE HALLOWEEN PARTY

185

pieces. Make a rich cream salad dressing,
using a generous portion of whipped
cream. Mix this lightly with the fruit,
turn into the can of an ice-cream freezer,
and pack in salt and ice for two to three
hours. The dasher and crank of the
freezer are not used, but the mixture
should be stirred lightly with a long-
handle spoon several times while the
freezing is going on. Serve this frozen
salad in large red apples which have been
scooped out like the orange above. The
apple which comes from the inside is
used to make the salad. To prevent
these apple shells from turning dark after
they have been scooped out, they should
be placed in a pan of cold water. This
makes a most attractive-looking dish,
and especially if the apples are served on
colored paper doilies. Cut round doilies
from orange-colored paper, making the
doilies slightly smaller than the plate on
which the apple is to be served. Place
these doilies on the plates, and on top of
them put smaller doilies cut from black
paper. These should be small enough
so that at least an inch of the orange
paper shows around the edges. Place
the apple on this black doily, and we
have a combination of all the Halloween
colors.

Halloween Cake

Illustration on Page 193

Select any favorite cake recipe, and
bake the cake in three round pans, each
one smaller than the last. Milk pans are
good for this purpose, and the cakes
should be about two and a half inches high
when baked. Place these cakes, when
cold, one on top of the other, forming a
pyramid shape. Now frost the whole
with frosting which has been colored
yellow with vegetable coloring. White
of egg and powdered sugar, beaten to-
gether until stiff enough to spread, make
the best frosting for this kind of cake
which is to be decorated. While the
frosting is still moist, decorate the cake
in fancy designs, using tiny round black

candies. For the remainder of the deco-
ration four small black witches and four
small black cats are required. These
may be purchased at any store where
small favors are kept. On the first ledge
of the cake place the four black cats,
evenly spaced on four sides of the cake.
On the second ledge of the cake place the
four witches, spacing them in between the
cats on the ledge below. A single yellow
candle may be placed on the very top of
the cake, and pieces of narrow, yellew,
baby ribbon may be fastened with paste
from the witches to the cat^ giving the
impression that the witches are driving
the cats. This cake makes a very at-
tractive centerpiece for a table, when
places are set for the refreshments.

Witches' Delight

Bake sponge cake in bread pans abou':
the size of a quartbrick of ice cream.
Cut thin slices of the sponge cake with a
sharp knife, and arrange them on indi-
vidual serving plates with a slice of ice
cream cut from a brick in between two
slices of the cake, forming an ice cream
sandwich. Pour hot chocolate sauce
over the whole, and serve at once.

Gelatine Sandwich

Make a gelatine dessert of any flavor
desired, and mold in bread pans which
have been moistened with cold water.
Use a little more gelatine than the ordi-
nary recipe calls for so that the jelly will
be quite stiff. When the jelly is firm
turn it from the mold onto a large
platter, and cut slices from it with a
sharp knife. Place these slices of jelly
between two slices of sponge cake of the
same size to form a sandwich. Serve
one sandwich on individual plates with
whipped cream piled lightly on top.
Instead of using whipped cream the
entire sandwich may be frosted with
yellow frosting, and decorated with fancy
black and yellow candies.

Lessons in Food and Cookery,
with Simple Appliances

The Apple

By Anna Barrows

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University

IN color, form and flavor, no fruit offers
so great a variety as the apple. Cer-
tainly we could select one best apple
for each month, beginning with the Mid-
Summer Sweets, then the Red Astrachan,
the Porter, the Jonathan, Baldwin,
Spitzenberg, Greening and around to the
Russet, which is best in the late spring
or even summer.

i Some schools have celebrated Apple
Day during the harvest season by bring-
ing together much that wise men have
said and poets have sung about this old
fruit, which is so familiar that it is not
fully appreciated.

•_How can a country school go further
and really study the apple in its relation
to other foods, and the pleasure and health
it brings to those who use it freely? How
can we have a lesson in foods and cookery
without a special outfit?

Where there is a stove for heating the
schoolroom some experiments may be
made in actual cookery, for a few utensils
may be borrowed of the mothers, if there
is no other way to get them. In some
country districts of the old type, where
the children bring a luncheon, the teacher
has been able to give some good lessons
in practical cookery, and give the children
a warm dish each day. In pleasant
weather it is possible to teach much
around a camp-fire, but this should not
be undertaken unless the conditions are
favorable. However, it is an important
item in the education of any human being
to have learned to respect the power of
fire and yet be able to control it.

For an early lesson each child may
bring a paring knife from home and one
or more apples. The boys may use their
pocket knives. The teacher may have

a grater instead of a knife and show the
pupils later that its rough surface is like
many little knives.

The more varied the collection of
apples the better; let them be arranged
as in a fair, each on a piece of paper on the
desk of the one who brought it. If the
desks are not numbered, have a number
on the paper. Then let each pupil in-
spect all and on a paper write the name
he thinks belongs to each apple, and then
compare the lists.

This is a good exercise in writing, trains
the powers of observation and probably
gives the pupil more respect for apples.

All the better, if some apples have to be
referred back to the parents for final
identification.

An apple festival might be arranged by
the teacher at the schoolhouse for the
community; in the evening, if the room
can be lighted, or during regular school
hours. There might be recitations and
readings in which the apple is the central
figure, such as the old poem on Apple
Dumplings and a King, and Henry Ward
Beecher's tribute to Apple Pie.

A tasting contest might follow to see
how many can tell the name of an apple by
its flavor, but before this is tried let each
pare and quarter and core his apple, and
try to estimate what per cent of the whole
is discarded. There is room for dis-
cussion whether an apple should be pared
and why? What may be done with skins
and cores; when does it pay to make
jelly of them, etc.

Another point worthy of some atten-
tion is the proper drying or evaporation
of apples.

There the teacher has an opportunity
to talk of food values, but should not go

186

THE APPLE

187

too far in this direction at first. After
the apples have been slowly tasted, — for
that is a good lesson, since few really
enjoy the flavors of food as they might, —
all the refuse may be gathered up in the
papers and disposed of as is best. Why
not use the refuse to make a fire as we
use scraps of paper? Then again the large
proportion of water will be recognized.
The knives can be rubbed dry with a
scrap of paper. The teacher, then, can
grate a portion of an apple and gather
it in a rag and squeeze it, or failing to have
the rag may lay it on a blotter, which
will absorb a large part of the juice or
water.

The fiber remaining should be studied,
since that is what must be softened by
heat in the pies or puddings.

Grated apple may be added to sweet-
ened cream and frozen. Such a lesson is
easily managed in winter time, using snow
instead of cracked ice with salt, and
freezing the flavored cream in small lots
in small tin cans with covers, such as
baking powder comes in. Another exer-
cise might be to let each write on the
blackboard the name of some good way
his mother has of cooking apples. Or
let several tell how to bake apples.

If we had to choose just one way to
cook apples, would it not be the baked
apple? But an apple to bake must be a
very perfect apple with a fine flavor. So
when the apples are imperfect we have to
core and pare them and put other things
with them, like spice and sugar, to make
them taste good.

To bake: — 'Choose fine apples; wash
them and put in an agate plate with a
little water to keep the juice that will run
out from burning on the pan. Put in
that part of the oven where the heat will
reach top and bottom of the apple alike.
This place will differ somewhat in the
ovens in our houses, as they are not all of
the same size and shape. In a gas or
kerosene stove the oven is often above the
fire, while in the coal or wood range the
fire is on one side of the oven. How many
can study the stove at home and tell us

about it another day? How many can
bake some apples all alone at home?

How long will it take to bake apples?
Will it take more time to bake ten than
to bake one? Every country child has
a chance to see something of the processes
of cooking, so a teacher, having some
practical knowledge herself, or by previous
study of a public-school cookbook, can
gradually bring together the essential
points in baking an apple. The size of
the fruit, the heat of the oven will be
mentioned as influencing the time of
baking, but the important thing is the
result — a soft apple, rather browner than
when it went into the oven, but not
burned. Nor should the apple be left in
the oven until it is dry and shriveled.
The ideal baked apple is that which can
be eaten just as the juice has changed and
puffed the whole fruit into a mass of foam.
This condition is best reached by roasting
the apples before an open fire. But the
usual oven-baked apple, even when cold,
is a good article of food.

There are many variations of this simple
process which may be discussed with
older pupils, and even may be carried out
in the schoolroom.

If each pupil's mother will lend one
utensil, a good working outfit can be
secured and a small kerosene lamp stove,
or the top of the schoolroom heater,
will give a chance for many useful
experiments.

Where no oven is available, apples may
be cooked in a pan on top of the stove in
a syrup made of one cup, each, of sugar
and water for six or eight apples. The
apples need not be pared, if the skins are
bright red and are not imperfect or too
thick. It is a good plan to prick the
skin or make horizontal or circular cuts
at regular intervals to prevent its break-
ing or slipping off altogether. The
apples should be cooked gently and un-
covered until tender, but not too soft.
They must be turned over, at least, once,
that both ends may cook alike. After
they are taken out of the syrup a little
soaked gelatine may be added to it, or

188

AMERICAN COOKERY

without any addition it may be allowed
to cook away a little more and then be
poured into and over the apples.

Pared-and-cored apples are sometimes
rilled with cooked sausage or other
chopped meat and then baked or cooked
on top of the stove with a very little water
or fat around them to prevent burning.

The apple dumpling, or variations of it,
would make a good substantial addition
to cold luncheons, but that type of cook-
ery is more complicated and should be
taken up later with doughs.

An Apple Salad is quickly made at
school, if somebodv's mother will send a
little jar of salad dressing. Any com-
bination of sliced apple and chopped
nuts, with either celery or lettuce, or
even tender cabbage, will make a good
salad.

Apple Pie cannot be made and baked
in the ordinary schoolroom. But when
apple pie is brought from home, this verse
and Rev. H. W. Beecher's description
may be read to all the school.

APPLE PIE

"All new dishes fade, the newest oft the fleetest:
Of pies ever made, the apple's still the sweetest.
Cut and come again, the syrup upward springing,
While life and taste remain, to thee my heart
is clinging.

Who a pie would make, first his apple slices,
Then he ought to take some cloves and best of

spices,
Grate some lemon rind, butter add discreetly,
Then some sugar mix, but mind, — the pie not

make too sweetly,
If a cook of taste be competent to make it,
In the finest paste he will enclose and bake it."

"Do not suppose thatwe limit the Apple
Pie to the kinds and methods enumerated.
Its capacity in variation is endless, and
every diversity discovers some new charm
or flavor. It will accept almost every
flavor of every spice. Yet nothing is so
fatal to the rare and higher graces of
Apple Pie as inconsiderate, vulgar spicing.
It is not meant to be a mere vehicle for
the exhibition of these spices, in their own
natures; it is a glorious unity, in which
sugar gives up its nature as sugar, and
butter ceases to be butter, and each
flavorsome spice gladly vanishes from its
own full nature, that all of them, by a
common death, may rise into the new
life of Apple Pie! Not that apple is
longer apple! It, too, is transformed;
and the final pie, though born of apple,
sugar, butter, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon,
is like none of these, but the compound
ideal of them all, refined, purified, and by
fire fixed in blissful perfection."

Dishwashing in Literature and Elsewhere

By Mrs. Geo. L. Washburn

AS to dishwashing in literature, I
am reminded of what Betsey
Prig said about Sairey Gamp's
cherished friend, Mrs. Harris:

"I don't believe there's no sich a

person

Literature has been defined as "life
seen through the medium of master
minds," but the master minds have been
singularly unconscious of dishwashing.

Unlike so many of my sex, I do not dis-
like dishwashing; it delights my orderly
soul to see the glass and china and silver,
the pots and the pans, the tinware and
the woodenware emerge from my treat-
ment clean and shiningjand ready to be

used again. But it does take a great
deal of my time, and why, I ask, are the
dishes never washed in literature? Food
is prepared, food is eaten, but what be-
comes of the dishes?

We know from Milton that even in
Eden there were dishes. The fatal
apple was, perhaps, "eaten by hand,"
as apples still are eaten in rural districts,
but previous to that sad occurrence, when
Eve is entertaining an angelic guest,
she prepares an elaborate meal with
great choice of viands,

"Nor these to hold
Wants her fit vessels pure,"

DISHWASHING IN LITERATURE

189

and while the refection was being en-
joyed, Eve

"Their flowing cups
With pleasant liquors crowned,"

but when the meal was over and Eve

withdrew, it was not to wash these cups

and vessels, but to go

"forth among her fruits and flowers
To visit how they prospered, bud and bloom."

As to when and by whom those dishes
were washed, Milton gives us absolutely
no information. Did Adam and Eve
do them together, cosily and chummily,
after the guest had gone, or did Eve
stack them and leave them until morn-
ing?

Tennyson does little better than

Milton. When Enid's father welcomes

Geraint to his castle, " poor, but ever

open-door'd,"

"Enid brought sweet cakes to make them cheer,
And in her veil enfolded, manchet bread.
And then, because their hall must also serve
For kitchen, boil'd the flesh, and spread the

board,
And stood behind and waited on the three."

When supper is over, Enid presumably

washes the dishes, but except for a

casual allusion to

"Enid at her lowly handmaid work,"

nothing is said about it. And so it is
with all the rest of the poets and writers;
Scott, Cervantes, Shakespeare, Brown-
ing, you may search them all; you will
find plenty of cooking and eating, of
feasting and rioting, but seldom any
dishwashing.

Who shall wash the dishes and do the
other unattractive but inevitable tasks
is really one of the fundamental problems
of civilization. On Prospero's Island
such work was relegated to the unhappy
Caliban, and this, in the main, has been
the plan adopted by society. It was,
for a time, a fairly satisfactory arrange-
ment for Prospero and Miranda and
their class, although they were always
secretly afraid of their minion. But
some two thousand years ago it began to
be whispered around the world that
Caliban, too, was a brother (sometimes
he was called Onesimus), that he also

had his dream and vision of Setebos, and
the foundation of Prospero's house began
to crumble. And now the rains descend
and the floods come and the winds blow
and beat upon the house, and its whole
structure seems doomed.

In one of Madame de Hegermann-
Lindencrone's charming letters, first pub-
lished — strange coincidence — in Au-
gust, 1914, she gives an account of her
attendance at a Court Ball at the Royal
Palace in Berlin.

"It amused me," she writes, "while
we were waiting in the carriage to see
standing before one of the entrances to
the Palace a whole line of soldiers with
serviettes hung over their shoulders.
They were there for the purpose of wash-
ing the dishes after the supper." And, as
she was leaving the Palace after the ball,
she saw through the open door of a room
they passed "a regiment of soldiers
wiping plates."

Caliban, thinking that he was about

to throw off the yoke of Prospero,

chuckles at the prospect — ■

"No more dams I'll make for fish,
Nor fetch in firing
At requiring;
Nor scrape trencher, nor wash dish."

To Caliban, that is, as to Prospero and
to Kaiser Wilhelm and, perhaps, to you
and to me, success in life means to es-
cape from its unpleasant details and to
impose them upon some other. It is
a very different spirit from that which
strives to make the whole world free.

But if Caliban is free, who will wash
the dishes? Shall Ferdinand? or Mir-
anda ? Ferdinand, moiling the wood, was
assured that

"poor matters
Point to rich ends,"

but would his philosophy have stood the
test of dish water? I believe Ariel might
turn dishwashing into poetry, or perhaps
Prospero will come to the rescue with his
magic. As I have said, I do not dislike
dishwashing, yet I would like, sometimes
at least, to go to the ball, and not always
to spend the evening in an adjoining
room, wiping plates.

190

AMERICAN COOKERY

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PRODUCTION AND EFFICIENCY

IN all that is being said about living
expenses and world-wide unrest to-
day, a few things only seem real and
tangible. One thing is certain; people
do not want to hear any more about the
conservation of food. The word has
become odious; people will have no more
of it. They are heartily tired of further
appeal for conservation, or Hooverism.
The practice has little or nothing to do
with true thriftiness, which is always in
order and commendable. The earth is
the Lord's and the fulness thereof.
Eat and be satisfied alone will suffice
for wholesome living here.

Again, the demands of the so-called
workmen for shorter working hours and
higher pay is, to say the least, most
untimely and unseemly under the condi-
tions that now exist. No course of
procedure could be more unwise and
perverse, than to advance the price of
anything, including wages, at the present
time. What we, as a people, need and
want above all, is the opportunity to
work as many hours per day as we choose,

to produce just as much as possible, in
every line of production, and to sell all
surplus in the markets of the world.
This means real thrift, and naught else
does. Through increased production,
then, only can be solved the economic
problems of the day.

But, according to the Saturday Even-
ing Post,

"Some wordmongers offer an easy
solution — namely, just expropriate cap-
ital and capitalists. But intelligent and
candid socialists know that is not a solu-
tion. John Spargo, for example, says:

" ' Every serious student of the prob-
lem has realized that the first great task
of any socialist society must be to in-
crease the productivity of labor. It is
all very well for a popular propaganda
among the masses to promise a great
reduciion in the hours of labor and at the
same time a great improvement in the
standards of living. The translation of
such promises into^ actual achievement
must prove an enormous task.;fc To
build the better homes, make the better
and more abundant clothing, shoes,
furniture and other things required to
fulfill the promise will require a great
deal of labor and such an organization
of industry upon a basis of efficiency as
no nation has yet developed.

" 'If the working class of this or any
other country should take possession of
the existing organization of production,
there would not be enough in the fund
now going to the capitalist class to
satisfy the requirements of the workers,
even if not a penny of compensation were
paid to the expropriated owners.'

"For intelligent and candid socialists,,
as well as for all other serious students,,
the only solution, finally, is greater
production, higher industrial efficiency.
Now the efficiency of any industrial unit
depends first of all upon the ability of
the management — of the directing mind
or minds. Whether it is a great railroad
system or a corner fruit stand, picking a
capable manager is the first step toward
getting that unit to function properly.

EDITORIALS

191

Without that step no other steps will
answer."

Hence capable management is the
first great need of the hour, and the
second is efficient industrial labors

PROFITEERING

PROFITEERING is not confined to
the limits of the United States alone;
it is a menace to peace and prosperity the
world over. According to an English
publication, The Table, "It has been sug-
gested by the Secretary of the Ministry
of Food that, to check the operations of
the profiteers, it might be desirable to re-
enact the old Statutes, which were
amended seventy-five years ago, against
Forestalling, Increasing, and Regrating.
These made it a criminal offence to buy
up large quantities of any article for the
purpose of re-selling it at an unreason-
able price — in modern parlance, corner-
ing — or to practice any artifice or de-
vice for enhancing the price of victuals.

"The proposal seems to be a judicious
one, for it appears that in the matter of
protecting the public against the opera-
tions of trusts and trade combinations,
Great Britain is almost alone among the
countries of the world in the laisser faire
attitude which it has maintained. Under
the Japanese law a punishment involving
the compulsory winding-up of a business
concern is imposed, while China has
recourse to her favorite argumentum
ad hominem, and punishes the delinquent
with a sound thrashing of eighty blows.
It has even been proposed in France that
profiteering in food should be made a
capital offence."

No matter what is done to check this
outcome of war methods, the continued
practice of profiteering can be regarded as
little less than criminal.

PROFIT AND LOSS

IT is self-evident no kind of business
can be conducted for any considerable
length of time at a loss. Workmen must
earn their wages and something more, or
the concern for which they work will

soon go into bankruptcy. Many a
small farmer, for instance, cannot afford
to hire needful help simply because his
farm cannot be made sufficiently pro-
ductive to pay the increased wages de-
manded by the workmen. The proofs
of these things are to be seen in the
status of business concerns on every
hand. Profit-sharing, as suggested by
some, is all right, but do we ever hear
of workmen proposing to share in the
losses that are likely to occur even in well-
managed industries?

Let us eliminate profiteering of every
sort and description — especially in the
necessities of life. Let us cease tt>
spread broadcast the seeds of selfish and
deceitful propaganda. Let us all settle
down in the earnest, steady pursuit of
productive enterprises. In our govern-
mental affairs we need at this time to
be subjected less to baneful effects of
partisan politics and to derive greater
benefit from the benign influence of
generous statesmanship.

THE QUESTION OF HELP

NOT only is the cost of foodstuffs a
perplexing subject in way of social
readjustments, but the preparation or
cooking of foods is likewise troublesome
and difficult of accomplishment.

Something of the domestic difficulty
in America, as seen by foreign eyes, may
be indicated by the following item of
correspondence taken from an Exchange:

"The servant question here, in Amer-
ica, writes a correspondent of the Evening
Standard, is so serious that it is a, very
exceptional woman who can boast of
having kept any kind of household
servant a year. And if you have not
one, you simply cannot get one without
paying her an enormous wage, giving her
all the privileges she wants and recon-
ciling yourself to the fact that she will not
wear a uniform of any sort and may not
wear an apron if she does not wish.

Most housewives do their own work
if they have small families, others have
given up the effort to keep house and

192 AMERICAN COOKERY

live permanently at hotels, and the years have set up in men's minds —
boarding schools cannot cope with the reacting upon a sense of labor's strong
applications they have, because dis- position at present. It goes on the idea
tracted mothers want to send their that labor can afford to show its speed,
children off to school since they cannot irrespective of whether it has any par-
get servants to look after them. Oc- ticular destination and of the rules of the
casionally groups of women in a country road.

town arrange to have one servant among But no position was ever strong
them. She spends three hours at each enough for a spendthrift. Irresponsi-
house doing the heavy work or just ble, reckless striking is a mere squander-
whatever she is told to do, and as there ing of that much of labor's strength.
are four women who have her she gets Joy striking is as serious an obstacle to
four times as much as she would other- collective bargaining as any that the
wise, so she is satisfied. She changes most Bourbon employer can impose,
the hours, so each woman gets her some- There is obviously no more use in a
times in the morning, again in the after- collective bargain than in a bargain of
noon. It does not sound very satis- any other sort if it is not really binding
factory, but the women who are trying on both parties; no use in dealing with
the experiment declare it works all chosen representatives of labor if they
right." do not represent.

THE NEED OF ECONOMY , Th* best sktudents °f Jh° "^^on now

look tor a shortage of labor, or at least

IF ever economy was called for, it is very full employment of labor, as a con-
now. In war-time, the need was dition to be counted on for an indefinite
more evident, but not more real. We period — instead of that unemployment
could make it very personal then by which a good many people thought they
saying we were saving meat, wheat, and foresaw six months ago. So far as we
sugar that the soldiers might not lack are able to see there is nothing on the
those essentials. We rallied to Mr. horizon to gainsay that prophecy, with
Hoover's standard, for we knew that the possible exception of extensive inter-
we were at war and to secure victory in ference with production, demoralization
war meant self-denial and the husband- of industry and discouragement of enter-
ing of resources. Our mental fallacy prise through needless strikes,
lies in thinking that the war is over. — The Saturday Evening Post.

Peace may have been signed, but the

economic disturbance has not subsided. Looking Backward

The waves are still running high. Cau- TT .... ...

"? . How did the aborigines

tion is yet necessary or the boat may Improve each shining hour?

capsize. The people who are spending To gather money all the day,

money lavishly for jewels and other Was not within their power.

non-essentials are rocking the boat. fr took no skill to build a home;

— The Christian Register. They had to pay no tax.

Since business hours meant naught to them,

JOY STRIKERS They never craved "'"■

Tttt? i u •* * t. In works of labor or of skill,

HE labor agitator who wants to They were so far behind,

ignore compacts, v ignore duly No eight-hour days had Satan then

chosen representatives of labor, and To work' new sins to find-

just step on the gas and let 'er go any- Our days, so tense, oft make me think —

how is having quite an inning now. It I know 'twill make you smile —

is a phase of the deep and general dis- l\v±* *° b*a" *h™g;>

. r ... r i 1 r ^or Just a "ttle while!

turbance which events of the last five — Blanche Elizabeth Wade.

HALLOWEEN CAKE (RECIPE OX PAGE 185)

Seasonable and Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Veal-and-Ham Pie

(Old English Recipe)

PREPARE a breast of veal for stew-
ing and let simmer very slowly till
tender. Place under a weight to
shape for slicing and when cold cut in
thin slices. Trim two sweet-breads;
parboil slowly; place in fresh boiling
water, seasoned, and allow to simmer only
long enough to cook the sweet-breads
without toughening. Place in cheese-
cloth squares and twist to form a ball.
Set away to cool. Boil four eggs in shell
for thirty minutes and allow to cool.
Have ready also a pint of veal stock
fine-flavored and stiffened, if necessary,
with gelatine. Combine with this a cup
of rich cream slightly thickened with
gelatine, if the pie is to be served the
day it is made. A few truffles sliced thin
and a few mushroom caps sliced are a

decided addition. Make a light, short
paste and place a layer around the
"ledge" of the pie-dish; fill the dish with
alternate layers of the sliced veal, sweet-
breads cut in slices, egg, and fine large
oysters. Sprinkle the mushrooms and
truffles on each layer and also use a very
small amount of powdered "fine herbs"
and fresh parsley minced very fine.
Mix all these together and keep to one
side. Add two gratings of nutmeg and
do not use more than one-fourth of a
teaspoonful of this seasoning for a large
pie. Drop the stock evenly on each
layer. Make the last layer of thin boiled
ham or thin Windsor bacon boiled for
ten minutes. Add the stock. Cover
with the paste and bake in a moderately
hot oven till the top is an even, light
brown. Brush lightly with milk and
return to the oven to finish browning.
Serve either hot or cold.

193

194

AMERICAN COOKERY

Yankee Boy Steak

Have a flank steak or the choice of the
round, ground up very fine. One pound
will make eight good-sized balls. Have
ready one sweet green pepper, minced
very fine, and one slice of onion, also
minced fine. Flatten the meat into a
large cake and sprinkle with salt, pepper
and as much ground nutmeg as can be
held^on the sharp point of a knife. Mix
thoroughly; add the vegetables and one
egg, well beaten. At last, add half a cup
of cracker dust. When all is combined
evenly, shape into balls and sear over
quickly in plenty of hot fat. Reduce

Firmety

Firmety is a form of porridge much
used in the north of England, especially
in Yorkshire. The long cooking re-
quired may be given in the oven of a
range that is always heated, or in a
double boiler or the fireless. Into a stone
or granite vessel put one pound of
crushed wheat and three pints of skim
milk. Stir occasionally and add water
or milk as necessary. Cook for twelve
hours. The porridge will keep for a week
in a cool place, well covered. To serve,
allow three tablespoonfuls of the por-
ridge to each cup of milk (new), a table-

Jjj

■ ■ ... ■■.-■..

YANKEE BOY STEAK

the temperature and cook for half an
hour, turning often. Ten minutes before
serving drain off all the fat except a
couple of spoonfuls. Drop in two table-
spoonfuls of flour and stir well. Allow
to brown nicely and add enough milk to
make a smooth sauce. There should be
only enough to coat the balls nicely;
serve all together.

Brussels Sprouts with Yankee
Boy Steak

Parboil the sprouts in soda water, as
directed for succotash, first looking the
sprouts over carefully. Cover with boil-
ing salted water, and cook without a
cover till tender; drain thoroughly and
coat with melted butter.

spoonful of sugar, a sprinkling of cinna-
mon or nutmeg and a spoonful of stoned
raisins. Serve either hot or cold. If the
porridge is the chief form of nourishment,
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs may be
added to a quart of porridge. Cream
may be substituted for the egg. Barley
may be substituted for the wheat and
nutmeg used alone.

Potatoes a TOtero

This makes an attractive and delicious
dish for breakfast or luncheon. Select
large, well-formed potatoes as nearly
uniform in size as possible. Scrub
thoroughly and bake in a hot oven.
When done split in half, lengthwise, and
scoop out the inside without breaking the
skin. Turn into a hot bowl and mash

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

195

POTATOES A L'OTERO

thoroughly; season with salt, pepper and
butter. Add just enough hot milk to
make a smooth mass, but rather dry.
Beat till very light with a fork and pile
in a neat border around the edge of each
potato shell; also place a thin layer on the
bottom.

Arrange the cases on a baking tin, and
in the hollow center of each place a small
filet of whitefish, which has been rolled
and sauted while the potatoes were being
prepared. Drop tiny bits of butter on the
border and a few buttered crumbs on the
fish. Slip into a hot oven or under the
broiler to brown lightly. Creamed fish
may be used instead of the filet. Instead
of fish an egg may be slipped, without
beating, into the case. For luncheon,
sprinkle grated cheese over the egg and
on the border. Pan-broiled oysters, nicelv
seasoned, are also fine.

Oysters a la Mornay

Allow two oysters for each half shell
or one service. Poach the oysters in their

own broth. To serve eight, prepare a
generous cup of Mornay sauce. Put a
scant tablespoonful of sauce in each shell
and on this dispose two of the poached
oysters; cover with a tablespoonful of
the sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese and
melted butter, and glaze in a very hot
oven. Serve at once. Use the deep
part of the shell; before filling these set
them on a shallow pan of salt, that they
may stand level during cooking. To
serve set on hot, folded napkins laid on
individual plates. A slice of bacon
rolled and cooked is an agreeable ad-
dition.

Mornay Sauce

To a pint of hot Bechamel sauce made
with fish stock beat in two ounces, each,
of Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Let
the sauce remain over the fire until the
cheese is melted, then remove and
gradually beat in, in bits, one-fourth a
cup of butter. The addition of the
cheese is the feature of the sauce, and

OYSTERS A LA MORXAY

196

AMERICAN COOKERY

when the sauce is to be used with other
articles than fish — this does not often
occur — any white stock may be used.

Onion Dumplings with Potato
Crust

Select onions of medium and uniform
size. Cook in boiling, salted water,
uncovered, till transparent. Cut rounds
of paste, allowing a margin of one-fourth
of an inch all round. Allow one round
for each onion. Cut an equal number of
similar rounds and cut from the center
of each a small round. Place an onion
on the large round, wet the edges lightly,
place the ring of paste over and press
down lightly. Drop a bit of butter and
some pepper and salt on the onion. Put

half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder thoroughly blended.
Work into this two tablespoonfuls of
butter. Add the flour mixture gradually
to the potato with just enough cold water
to make a firm dough (not more than
damp). Turn out on a floured board.
Knead lightly and quickly into a smooth
ball. Pin out into an oblong three or four
times longer than wide, and not more than
one-eighth of an inch thick. Brush lightly
with melted butter and roll the paste into
a cylinder. Make into an oblong again
and repeat the first process. Do this
four times in all, forming the dough into a
large sheet the last time, about one-
eighth an inch thick. This paste bakes
more slowly than the ordinary kind and

ONION DUMPLINGS WITH POTATO CRUST

on to baking sheet and slip into a moder-
ate oven. When nicely browned serve
with a spoonful of rich cream sauce on
top of each dumpling. If preferred, the
paste can be cut into squares and the
points gathered together on top.

Potato Paste for Onion Dumplings,
Meat and Vegetable Pies

Pare and slice enough white potatoes
to fill a cup when mashed. When
tender (but not soft) drain well and dry
over the flame for a second. Mash en-
tirely free from lumps; add two table-
spoonfuls of butter and beat all till very
light. Have ready one cup of flour, one-

must be thoroughly done and nicely
browned. It is used as top only.

Ginger Baked Apples

Pare and core large tart apples. Fill
the cavity with fine-chopped preserved
ginger. Arrange in a baking dish with a
good supply of syrup made of apple,
crab or light grape jelly, some of the
syrup from the preserved ginger and the
juice of one lemon. Use a moderate oven
and baste the apples frequently. Con-
tinue the basting after the apples are
baked and are cooling, in order to glaze
them nicely with the jelly. Top each
apple with a spoonful of whipped cream

SEASONABLE AXD TESTED RECIPES

197

GINGER BAKED APPLES

when serving. If the apples are very
tart, more sugar may be needed in the
basting syrup.

Ginger Cream

Make a custard of the volks of four
eggs and the whites of two, four table-
spoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
syrup from preserved ginger, and one
pint of milk. Just before the custard
is done, add as much previously softened
gelatine as is required of the brand you
are using for a pint of liquid. Allow
plenty of time for the gelatine to become
completely dissolved in the hot custard.
As soon as the mixture coats the spoon
smoothly, stand the vessel in cold water
to arrest cooking, and then turn the
custard into molds. Sprinkle each mold
with chopped, preserved ginger.

Apple Charlotte

Butter a small, oval Charlotte mold.

Cut a thin slice of bread, just the size
and shape of the bottom of the mold, and
another for the top of the mold. Spread
both sides of the bread with butter. Put
one slice in the bottom of the mold, now
line the inner walls of the mold with
moderately thin strips of bread, buttered
on both sides. Within the case place
layers of apples cut small, with orange
marmalade or apricot jam spread be-
tween; add, also, to each layer a light
sprinkling of sugar and a little melted
butter, and let bake till done; serve with
cream and sugar and custard.

Raisin Pie with Meringue

Line a pie-dish with pastry and fill with
the following: Beat the yolks of two eggs;
add one cup of sugar, the grated yellow
rind and the juice of one lemon, a pinch
of salt and a cup of chopped, seedless
raisins. Add a little water if the mix-
ture seems dry or, better still, cook the

APPLE CHARLOTTE

198

AMERICAN COOKERY

raisins for a few minutes till plump and
use the water with the raisins. Bake in
a moderate oven and when cool cover
with a meringue made of the whites of
the eggs. Beat the whites till stiff, but
not dry. Add, gradually, four table-
spoonfuls of sugar and continue beating
till the mixture retains its shape when
piled up. Slip into a warm oven to dry
slowly at first, increasing the heat for
browning.

Uncooked Fruit Whips

The amateur cook and the house-
mother forced to do without a serving
maid will hail the uncooked fruit souffle

reach, because the flavor depends on the
kind of fruit used; the proportions remain
the same.

Proportions for Fruit Whip

Beat four or five egg-whites very stiff.
They are stiff enough when the bowl can
be turned upside down without the egg-
whites slipping out. Have ready one
cup of fruit pulp, into which has been
stirred one-half cup of sugar and the
juice of half a lemon. Fold this very
carefully into the beaten whitejs and turn
into the serving dish; put into the ice
box till serving time. Use the yolks to
make a soft custard and pour this around

UNCOOKED FRUIT WHIPS

as her staunchest ally. Any one who
considers the high cost of living will also
consider the uncooked fruit souffle. It
does away with all oven worry and makes
no feverish demands for hurried serving.
The rules for its successful making are
few, and fruits that would otherwise be
prohibitive for a large family are satis-
factorily "stretched" in their original,
natural flavor, so that the family thinks
it is enjoying summer as in the days when
prices were within reach.

The conditions for the successful mak-
ing of an uncooked fruit souffle are few
and simple, but insistent. Everything
must be absolutely cold. Eggs must be
fresh, and beaten to the last degree of
lightness. An infinite variety is within

(not over) the whip when serving. Either
fresh or dried fruits may be used, the
dried ones being first soaked over night
and cooked till soft. Seedy fruits should
be pressed through a sieve in order to
remove the seeds. Almonds, chopped
very fine and sprinkled over the top of
an apricot whip, give a pretty touch, and
pistachio nuts are pretty with straw-
berries or pineapple.

Delicate Cake with Fudge Frosting

\ cup butter 2 teaspoonfuls baking

1 cup sugar powder

2 egg-yolks \ teaspoonful mace
| cup milk 2 egg-whites, beaten
If cups flour very light

Mix and bake in a pan about six by ten

inches and cover with Fudge Frosting.

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

199

DELICATE CAKE WITH FUDGE FROSTING

Fudge Frosting

Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot
water; add two cups of sugar and one
cup of milk, and stir while the sugar
gradually melts. When the boiling-point
is about reached, beat vigorously and let
cook to the soft-ball stage, about 236° F.
Remove from the fire, add a teaspoonful
of butter, and let stand until cold, then
beat until creamy and spread on the cake.

Fudge Cake with Fruit and
Marshmallow Filling

In a granite pan melt two squares of
Baker's unsweetened chocolate. Add
three tablespoonfuls of butter, one cup of
powdered sugar and one-half cup of milk.
Stir well and cook till the "fudge" begins
to thicken perceptibly. Add the yolks
of two eggs, beaten in another half cup
of milk. Continue cooking till the mass

MATERIALS FOR MAKING MARMALADES

200

. AMERICAN COOKERY

ORANGE JACK-O-LANTERN

is quite jelly-like. Set aside to cool.
When almost cold stir in one teaspoon-
ful of baking soda, dissolved in a little
water. If the soda is added while the
mixture is hot, the cake will be red in color
and taste of the soda. Stir in one cup
and two-thirds of flour. Bake in two
square layers. The baking will take but
a short time since everything is cooked
except the flour. This insures a tender
texture.

Filling for Fudge Cake

Stir two cups of granulated sugar and
one-fourth a cup of water until the sugar
is dissolved. Boil slowly until the syrup
drops from the end of the spoon and flies
in a thread. Just before boiling add two
squares of sweetened chocolate. Beat
the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and
pour the syrup over in a fine stream, beat-
ing all the time. Have half a pound of
marshmallows, cut into fourths (with the
scissors), and drop these into the finished
icing. Do not stir or attempt to cover
the pieces with the icing any more than
happens from using the icing. It is not
desirable to melt the marshmallows.
Have ready, also, three-fourths a cup of
chopped raisins and the same of pecan
meats, sliced thin. Place a thin coating
of the icing on the top of each layer, then
a layer of raisins and nuts and another
layer of icing. Have everything ready
to use as soon as the icing is ready and
divide the portions evenly.

Spice Cake

Cream together one-half cup of butter
and two cups of brown sugar. Add
three eggs and beat till the mass is very
light. Stir one-half teaspoonful of baking

soda into one-half cup of New Orleans
molasses and add to the cake mixture
with one-half cup of strong coffee and
three-fourths a cup of sweet cream. Mix
lightly before adding three cups of flour,
into one cup of which has been stirred
three teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
two level tablespoonfuls of cinnamon,
one tablespoonful of cloves, one tea-
spoonful of ginger, one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of black pepper and the same of
nutmeg or mace. Add this cup first and
as much of the remaining two cups as are
needed. Bake in a loaf and cover with
chocolate icing.

Chocolate Icing

Boil together for five minutes two
cups of granulated sugar and one-half
cup of water. Add three ounces of
chocolate and cook till a little dropped
in cold water makes a hard ball. Add
four eggs well beaten. Cook five min-
utes, stirring all the time. Take from
the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla.
This is good for coating cream puffs and
eclairs and for tops of layer cakes. It
cuts well and does not crack.

COLONIAL BON-BON DISH

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES

201

"Torchy" Marmalade

Select carrots of a rich orange color.
Scrape and slice crosswise very thin.
Cover with water and cook till tender,
but do not stir as this will break the
slices. When tender enough to be
pierced with a straw, drain carefully.
Add an equal amount of sugar and the
juice and grated yellow rind of one
lemon for each pint of carrots. Let
stand half an hour and add as much
water as necessary to cook the carrots
till clear. Reduce the syrup as much as
possible without scorching. Add as much
orange jelly as carrots and allow to be-
come thoroughly hot. Drop the carrots
into small retainers, adding with each
layer a few large, seedless raisins. Fill
up with the jelly and seal.

"Penrod and Sam" Marmalade

This is well named for several reasons.
It is thoroughly good, unusually good, in
fact, and is made from what some would
scarcely consider good salvage. Its basis
is the material left in the jelly bag when
making orange jelly. Xo one but the
skilful and economical juggler with
flavors and fruits can say just what other
things go to the making of this marma-
lade. The contents of the bag are
turned into a preserving kettle and an
equal amount of sugar is added. Just
enough water to reach the top of the
fruit is added and the whole is cooked
till the skins become transparent. At
this point other fruits may be added. A
few peaches may be left from lunch; a
glass of rhubarb sauce may be added, and
two or three figs may be sliced and added.
Half a dozen large raisins or a fine large
prune sliced lengthwise into sixteen
pieces — all these may be put together,
keeping the sugar equal to each addition
and cooking slowly. At the last an
orange cut into fourths (without remov-
ing the rind) and sliced very thin cross-
wise will make a pretty addition. There
is always a chance that a squeeze of lemon
juice will prove to .be needed to give
"point" to the flavor. A glass of apple

jelly or a generous portion of the orange
jelly will certainly not do any harm.
The fact is, this marmalade may not "find
itself" till the fruit season is over.

Carrot Pie

One cup of stewed carrots, one cup of
hot milk, one-half cup of sugar, one-half
teaspoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of
cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of all-
spice, one egg well beaten, a pinch of salt.
Bake in one crust. An extra egg-yolk
mav be used and the white made into a
meringue.

Carrot Pudding

One-half cup of grated raw potato,
one-half cup of grated carrot, one-half
cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of chopped
suet, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-
half teaspoonful of allspice, one-third tea-
spoonful of salt, one-half cup of flour, one
teaspoonful of baking powder and one-half
cup of raisins. Steam in individual cups.

Apple Slump

This is a " first-aid " dessert. If slipped
into the oven just as the family sit down
to a simple dinner, it will be ready for the
dessert course. Select tart apples that
cook well. Pare and slice as for apple
sauce. Add sugar, a tablespoonful of
butter and a little water, and cook on top
of the stove. Mix two cups of flour, one-
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and three
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat
one egg very light and add one tablespoon-
ful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, and one cup of milk. Add to the
flour, beat well and pour over the boiling
apple sauce after dusting it with cinna-
mon. Turn an inverted, deep pan over
the top at once, and keep closely covered
and steaming vigorously for ten minutes.
Slip into the oven ten minutes before
leaving the kitchen and remove the cover
at the end of that time. It is necessary
to keep the sauce steaming when the
batter is poured over and afterwards, as
the light texture depends on this. For
the same reason it is necessary to keep the
batter closely covered until the mixture
is safelv "set."

Simple Well-Balanced Meals for

ONE WEEK IN OCTOBER

Breakfast

Ripe Pears

Firmety, Top of Milk

Mushroom Caps in Bacon

Cornmeal Muffins (reheated)

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Veal-and-Ham Pie

Creamed Potatoes

Tomato Salad

Jellied Peaches

Oatmeal Cookies

Coffee

Supper

Cottage Cheese

Boston Brown Bread

Chocolate Cake

Tea

Breakfast

Iced Cantaloupe

Flummery, Top of Milk

Liver and Bacon

Buttered Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Jellied Salmon

Creamed Potatoes

Spiced Beet Pickles

Lemon Pie

Tea

Dinner

Veal Stew with Dumplings

Baked Potatoes

Endive Salad

Apricot Charlotte Russe

Coffee

o
H

Breakfast

Baked Ginger Apples

Baked Hash

Sour-Milk Whole- Wheat Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Turkish Rice

Rolls (reheated)

Stewed Prunes

Macaroons

Tea

Dinner

Roast Loin of Pork

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Sour Cabbage

Apple Shortcake

Breakfast

Jellied Figs

Barley Porridge

Oatmeal Sausage

Buttered Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Florentine Soup Cheese Crackers

Eggplant, Turkish Style

Pineapple-and-Cream-Cheese Salad

Tea

Dinner

Fillet of Beef with Banana Croquettes

Brussels Sprouts

Buttered Lima Beans

Tomato Glace Salad

Ginger Cream

Sponge Cake

Coffee

a
a

<
CO

K
P
H

<
Q

P
H

Breakfast

Oranges

Rice Balls with Prune Centers

Puffed Rice, Top of Milk

Bacon Fritters

^Potatoes a l'Otero

Scalloped Potatoes

t Corn Bread

Baking Powder Biscuits

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Parsnip Soup

Cream of Tomato Soup

Stuffed Green Peppers

Scalloped Oysters

Floating Island

Corn Relish

Sugar Cookies

Hot Gingerbread, Whipped Cream

Tea

Dinner

Planked Steak with Fried Oysters

Stuffed Baked Fish

Mashed Potatoes

Mattre d' Hotel Potatoes

Buttered Carrots

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce

Celery-and-Cabbage Salad

Cucumber Salad

Peach Shortcake

Plum Pie

Coffee

Breakfast

Luncheon Dinner

Grapefruit Clam Broth with Whipped Creamed Chicken in Bread Box

Oatmeal Porridge, Top of Milk

Cream French Fried Potatoes

French Omelet

Corn on Ear Stewed Corn with Green Peppers

Bacon

Cold Sliced Mutton Pershing Salad

Popovers

Sweet Potato Pie Raisin Meringue Tarts

Coffee Cocoa

Tea Coffee

Menus for Special Occasions

Menus for High School Lunch Counter

Cottage Cheese, Celery

Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches

Milk

Baked Ginger Apples with Cream

White Bread and Butter Sandwiches

Meat Loaf

Milk

Baked Spaghetti with Cheese Sauce

Bread and Butter

Milk

Dried Green Pea Soup

Jellied Salmon

Cornmeal Muffins (cold)

Cocoa

Banana Cake

Junket Topped with Whipped Cream and

Powdered Caramel

Cocoa

Cream of Tomato Soup,'Celery

Baking Powder Biscuits, Cheese

Cocoa

Apple Shortcake with Whipped Cream
Cocoa

Florentine Soup with Whipped Cream

"Coffee Bread"

Tea

Buffet Refreshments for Receptions in October

Clam Cocktail in Tomato Baskets

Timbale Molds of Chicken, Tongue and Ham

with Mayonnaise

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuits

Diamonds of Fancy Cake

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea

III

Tiny Finger Rolls, Toasted, Centers Filled

with Creamed Chicken and Oysters

Piccalilli, Ripe and Green Olives, Tiniest Gherkins

Tomato Glace Salad, Nut Sandwiches

Peach Ice Cream, Fancy Cakes

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea

Fried Oysters with Celery-and-Cabbage Salad

Tiny Cheese Puffs

Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches

White Bread Sandwiches with Nut Filling

One-Two-Three Dessert

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea

Clam Broth with Whipped Cream

Jellied Chicken on Lettuce Hearts

Beaten Biscuits

Pineapple Sherbet

Fudge Cake, Angel Cake

The Art of the Chopping-Bowl

By F. M. Christianson

OLD things give place to new. With
the coming of the meat-chopper or,
more properly, crusher, the chopping
block and bowl have been discarded and
one rarely hears of or even sees a chopping-
bowl in the homes of today.

Even horseradish, which our mothers
never thought could be made good in any
other way than by grating, is today forced
through the meat-chopper, ruining the
horseradish, which comes out a coarse,
"choppy" looking mess, full of hard
particles. The grater permits of shredding
the roots very fine and one can discard all
the hard parts as the grating goes on.

The poor way is the quick way. The
good housewife will not sacrifice good food
and health for speed, but will do it the
better way. Hash is a fine dish, or should
be, which the majority of people turn up
their noses at because it is made from
meat-gristle, cartilage and bone forced
through the meat-crusher; this fines it in
a certain way, but when the unseemly
mixture is mixed with potato and heated
up, it is anything but a palatable dish,
because one is constantly biting into a
piece of gristle or bone.

Just a little good beef left over and a
little gravy can be made the basis of an
appetizing dish when it is prepared in the
right way.

Place the meat, after all bone, gristle
and tough membranes have been removed,
in a clean chopping-bowl and with a good
chopping-knife chop the meat till very
fine, and as the chopping proceeds the bits
of gristle and sinews that are too tough to

be cut will come to the top where they may
be removed, and finally you'll have a fine,
evenly chopped, tasty meat in your bowl.

A cup of this meat to one cup and
one-half of left-over mashed potatoes is
a good proportion for hash. If the left-
over potatoes are not mashed, put them
in with the meat, now, and continue
the chopping till all are incorporated with
the meat.

Place in a cast-iron frying-pan, pre-
ferably. Season with pepper and salt.
Add gravy and a little beef-dripping,
if the meat is lean. Put over all enough
water to moisten it nicely. Let the
hash-mixture heat through quickly and
then let cook slowly, stirring now and then
for three-fourths or one hour, insuring
a fine deep brown crust when ready to
serve, which will be on hot plates, of
course.

This is a dish truly fit for a king.
So often do our people clamor for hash
that I have many times gone to the
butcher and bought good round beef-
steak and fried it well done, and as soon
as cool enough to handle prepared it for
the chopping-bowl, for hash.

"Can't we have hash for supper ?,:' is
a remark often heard in our home.
There is a reason. I have tried to ac-
count for it.

Every home should have at least two
chopping-bowls." One for meats, nuts,
etc., which should never be used for
chopping onions, etc. A chopping-bowl
should be properly washed and dried as
soon as one is through using it. That is

204

THE ART OF THE CHOPPIXG-BOWL

205

the only way to keep it in the best con-
dition.

Raisins, nuts, peel, etc., are much
nicer chopped in the chopping-bowl.

Raw beef, chopped on the block, is
much nicer for dumplings in soups than
when put through the meat-crusher.

In preparing mincemeat: If good cook-
ing apples be stewed as for apple-
sauce, instead of chopping them, and the
meat, sugar, suet, and spice be added,
you get a superior mincemeat.

" Eat the Crusts '

EAT the crusts, dear," grandfather
used to say to me when on those
delightful never-to-be-forgotten child-
hood visits to grandpa's house.

Whether it was because of the dear old
man's admonition and the love I bore
I don't know, but I do know that I have
always eaten crusts and do yet. In
childhood I ate crusts because my elders
said it was right to eat them, and as I
grew up and went to high school and
college, I took a more than passing inter-
est in chemistry, and then I discovered
the real reason why one should eat
crusts. How pleased I was when I
came across a sensible reason! I remem-
ber the joy of that day yet and many
others. This was the reason: The heat
of the oven has a particular effect on the
starch and sugar contained in the flour
of the wheat and changes it into dextrine,
and the greatest amount of dextrine is
found in the crusts, so that the crusts of
bread are the most easily taken care of by

the stomach. And so I have always
eaten crusts and, since adolescence, from
choice.

There is not a finer dish, to my mind,
than a bowl of our pure Jersey milk,
with a generous handful of bread crusts
nicely cut up and put in.

Just put a quart of milk into a granite
saucepan, add the crust, place on stove
and let come just to a boil. It will re-
fresh you, cure fatigue and satisfy all
your demands for a supper. Try it.

Every one who has traveled in Sweden
will remember the thin, round, flat cakes
of bread they have there. Dough is
rolled out till about one inch thick and
put in round, shallow pans, like our pie-
tins. The dough is then pricked all over
with a fork and set to raise a little time
and then baked. This thin cake gives
a good crust on both sides. It is cut
into narrow strips. Then an individual
splits a strip through the middle and
adds a generous supply of good butter
and it's an ideal bread. I persuaded the
home folk to like it and now we all eat
it. The idea was to get as much
crust on the bread as possible. These
northern nations are ever on the alert to
find ways of better health. The coarse
rye-bread, the chief bread of the peas-
antry, is largely responsible for their
strength and vigor.

Rye-bread is certainly the finest natural
dentrifice that I have ever used. After
eating rye-bread for a day or two your
teeth become a pearly white and remain
so as long as you eat this bread.

Safe and Sane Canning and Preserving

By Emma Gary Wallace

IT is high time to begin thinking about
canning and preserving for another
season, for fruits and vegetables must be
done when thev are in season.

During the war it was very necessary

that supplies should be prepared in the
home in liberal quantities, in order to
preserve perishable foods, and also to
release labor wherever possible. Some
housewives, however, went to the ex-

206

AMERICAN COOKERY

treme, and canned and preserved much
larger quantities of food than their
families could consume.

It was only the other day that a worried
housewife said to me: "I feel as though I
never wanted to see a bit of canned or
preserved fruit, or a canned vegetable,
as long as I live. We have eaten fran-
tically of the supplies I put up all winter,
and there are as many left now as we have
used. When fresh asparagus came into
the market, I still had quantities of the
canned variety, and my family no longer
enjoyed that, once they got a taste of the
new; neither did they have the same
appetite for it that they would have had,
had I not been urging asparagus upon
them over-much to get it used up before
the fresh was in season."

This is going to extremes, but many
people do go to extremes, thinking that
they are exercising thrift and foresight
by such means.

Quite the best way to do is to make
an estimate of what the family is likely
to use- and enjoy during the months when
the fresh supplies are out of the market.
For example, if fresh asparagus will be
too high to use for six months in the
year, and the family will enjoy an oc-
casional meal of it served in some at-
tractive way twice a month, a dozen
cans will make such provision; or if they
would like to use it oftener, a dozen and a
half cans will give an ample supply.
The housekeeper of whom I spoke kept on
canning and canning each vegetable and
fruit as long as its price was within her
reach, regardless of how much she had
put up.

Then it is foolish, too, to can root vege-
tables, which are with us all winter.
Extra heat must be used in the summer to
prepare them, and oftentimes they are
not as satisfactory as when freshly pre-
pared. If you were to go out to buy
bread or milk, you would estimate how
much you would need and could use in a

given time, and the same idea is appli-
cable to canned supplies. Many times
it is just as well to let the family use up
food supplies of a certain kind and to be
without them for a short period before
the fresh comes in, for then the appetite
is keener and the enjoyment greater of
the fresh items.

It is much better to can six jars and
have them just right, than sixteen hastily
prepared and of indifferent quality.
Vegetables especially cannot be success-
fully canned unless freshly-gathered, or
they will develop flat sour, which is both
disagreeable and dangerous. Make ar-
rangements to get supplies of the best
and freshest for winter use.

Many families, who have learned how
much a well-balanced supply of home-
canned goods can reduce the cost of living,
are purchasing pressure canners of small
size for individual use. Not only are
gas and labor saved, but the results are
much surer. In some cases, several
housekeepers are purchasing pressure
canners together, to be used among them.
This makes it a little more convenient
than to go to a Community Kitchen
and take one's turn among a much larger
number. Pressure canners can be used
for other cooking also to good purpose,
where there is a family of some size.

Much of the canning and preserving
which comes out unsatisfactorily is the
result of guess methods. Materials are
too high-priced to use except in a proper
manner. Have a formula for making
syrups, heavy and light, and get accurate
and reliable directions for vegetable
canning, then follow them to the letter.

The prospects are that wheat and con-
sequently flour and bread will be high for
another year, and so it will be a good
policy to put up such supplies in season
as the average family can use; but can and
preserve so that the foods will come out
at their very best and there will be no
left-overs in the spring.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

Made at Butchering Time

EVERY scrap of meat should be util-
ized, and when worked up into head-
cheese, scrapple and the like, many
palatable dishes can be made from parts
that were formerly thrown away or con-
sidered of little value.

Not only the head, but the feet and
other meat scraps, may be used in making
headcheese. Clean the head, cut out
the eyes and ear drums, boil it along
with the other scraps of meat till the
flesh separates readily from the bone.
Remove all bits of bone, and run the
meat through a food-chopper or sausage-
grinder; add a little of the liquor in
which the meat was boiled, in order to
soften it, season with salt, pepper, sage
or other condiments to suit the taste,
and mold by weighting down in a pan or
crock. It can be served cold sliced,
fried in hot grease, or sliced in vinegar.
It is a good practice to fold a piece of
cheesecloth or muslin over the meat
when it is pressed, and to pour off sur-
plus liquid.

Scrapple is made by boiling the meat
just as you would for headcheese. Strain
the liquor it was boiled in to remove all
pieces of bone, and after the meat has
been chopped fine, return it to the liquor,
stir in sufficient corn meal to make a
thick mush and cook for an hour. Season
rather highly with salt, pepper and sage,
or whatever suits the taste. Thyme
and sweet marjoram or the prepared
powder used for seasoning chile and
tamales will give a flavor much relished

pans, and when ready to use it, slice and
fry quickly till brown.

Hearts, livers and melts may be used
in headcheese or scrapple. Another way
to utilize them is by boiling till tender,
running through the chopper and season-
ing. Set away in a cool place, and serve
by heating in a greased pan.

Any of these products, as well as
sausage, sparerib and steak, can be kept
fresh through warm weather by putting it
in jars and covering with melted lard.
Sausage and other meat must be cooked
in order to keep it in this way.

Some Ways of Preparing Pop Corn

Besides merely popping it and sprin-
kling with salt or adding butter, pop
corn may be made into several pal-
atable confections. To get best results,
the corn should be popped over a hot
fire, but care should be taken not to
scorch the popped grains. If a wire
popper is used, hold it far enough from
the blaze to prevent burning. The right
degree of heat should make good corn
begin to pop in about a minute and a half.
Too great a heat will cause some of the
grains to pop sooner, but many of them
will not pop at all and those that pop
will not be so flaky. If the grains pop
well, the bulk should be increased by
about twenty times.

Some like pop corn with cream and
sugar, in the form of breakfast food.
When served this way, the popped grains
may be eaten whole or ground up in a
coffee-mill. The parched and poorly
popped kernels are also used in this way
by many. Put the scrapple in jars or when ground fine, and are superior to some

207

208

AMERICAN COOKERY

breakfast foods on the market.

Chocolate pop corn is likely to be
relished by every one. Take two teacups of
sugar, half a cup of starch, two ounces of
chocolate and a cup of water. Put into a
sauce pan or kettle and boil till the
syrup hardens when put in cold water.
While hot pour this syrup over four
quarts of freshly popped corn, and stir
well to insure a uniform coating of the
kernels.

Sugared pop corn is quite popular.
Make a syrup by boiling together two
teacups of sugar to one of water. Boil
until the syrup strings from the spoon
or hardens when dropped into cold water.
Pour the syrup over six quarts of pop
corn, and stir till all is coated, and sepa-
rated.

To make pop corn balls requires a pint
of syrup or molasses, either maple
syrup, sugar molasses, sorghum or corn
syrup, a pint of sugar, two tablespoonfuls
of butter and a teaspoonful of vinegar.
Cook till the syrup will harden in cold
water, and add half a teaspoonful of soda
dissolved in a little hot water. Pour
the hot syrup over four or five quarts of
pop corn, stirring till each kernel is well
coated, when it may be pressed with the
hands into balls or molded into any form
desired. h. f. g.

* * *

Improving Butter Beans

TO make butter beans more digestible,
cook more quickly, and be more
palatable than ordinarily, soak and
skin them. It takes time to do this, but
they are so much better for it that it is
well worth while. One is amazed at the
bulk of the skins and quickly realizes
why so many delicate stomachs are
hurt by them.

Beans so prepared cook to a pulp and
the milk, butter, and seasoning can be
beaten in as in mashed potatoes.
Coloring and Flavoring Apples
To sweeten, flavor and lend a beauti-
ful pinkish color to either apple sauce
or baked apples, place a few red

cinnamon candies, wrhich the children
call "red hots," into the water in which
the fruit is cooked. Both the spice and
the coloring will permeate to the very
core of whole apples, making them
unusually attractive to the eye as well as
the palate. Very few of the candies are
necessary for quite a large dishful.

Cider Apple-Butter without Cider

Any time in the winter a most de-
licious butter that can scarcely be
told from the old-fashioned cider apple
butter may be made by boiling together
with a little water one quart of cran-
berries to one gallon of raw apples, the
apples cored and cut up but not peeled.
When soft, run this through a colander,
season with sugar, brown preferred,
cinnamon, allspice and a pinch of cloves
according to taste; then boil down to the
right consistency and put up in jars.
The cranberries give a bright color and
the tart taste of real cider.

Selecting and Serving Pineapples

To tell when a pineapple is really
ripe, — no easy thing for the inexpe-
rienced, — simply pull on the green
"feathers" of its top. If these come out
easily, it is fully ripe and juicy within.

Instead of laboriously cutting it up,
twist out one "eye" with a small knife,
then loosen others next to it until they
come out like so many pointed corks.
If the pineapple be as ripe as it should be,
they will almost fall out after the first
little wedge is removed. Do not at-
tempt to cut off the hard outer scale
from each piece, but lay them in a circle
upon individual plates, and put a small
mound of sugar in the center. They
are to be eaten as one does strawberries
with the stems on them, dipping each
wedge-shaped piece into the sugar and
eating from the fingers. No juice is lost
in this, the plates look very attractive
on the table and the cook is saved both
time and scars. One ordinary-sized p'ine-
applewill serve four or five people, in this
manner. l. mcc.

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

209

To Soften Paint Brushes

TO soften an old paint brush in which
the paint has been allowed to dry,
heat some vinegar to the boiling-point,
and allow the brush to simmer in it a few
minutes. Remove and wash well in
strong soapsuds, and the brush will be
like new.

Yolks of Eggs

When making candies, frostings, cake
or anything requiring only the whites
of eggs, the housekeeper is sometimes
puzzled as to the best way of utilizing
the yolks. They may be kept fresh
a surprising length of time if covered
with cold water and kept in a cool
place. They will not harden and may
be used at any time in making salads,
cake, cookies or anything one wishes
to use them for.

The Teakettle

Do not slight the teakettle. It is one
of the hardest-worked utensils of the
kitchen, and we sometimes forget that
it needs more attention than just a hasty
wiping with the dishcloth. Not only
keep it bright and shining on the outside,
but take the trouble to empty it before
each meal and fill with fresh water. To
prevent the lime in the water from col-
lecting on the bottom and sides of the
teakettle, place in it a few common
marbles, the kind the boys call "com-
mies," and the lime will adhere to them
and leave the inside of the kettle
clean.

Fig Preserves

FILL a ten-pound lard bucket with
white or black figs (black are best),
split twice, crosswise, from blossom end of
fig about halfway. Put them in a deep
dish and cover with cold water, in which
a full tablespoonful of medium strong
lye has been dissolved; stir every two or
three hours, and leave figs in solution
thirty-six hours. Take them out and
rinse well, first in cold water, then in hot
water (not boiling), then cold, then hot,

then cold. In the mean time have your
syrup boiled, flavored with cinnamon and
a few whole cloves in bags. Boil slowly
for four hours or until fruit is transparent.
It will keep for years.

mrs. j. j. o'c.

He j}:

The Acid Test

ALIEX acids fight, and when the
combatants choose the human
stomach for the prize-ring no wonder it
aches in protest, and that indigestion is
rampant. Said stomach is perfectlv
tractable when we treat it rationally, but
it roils under abuse. It is a very simple
matter to take into consideration the
combination of harmonious acids in
planning home meals, thus escaping
direful consequences, for it is the mad
mixtures that hurt.

When a person's liver and other organs
are functioning properly, the owner
feeling fine, he can "get away" with
almost any food enormity without danger.
But let Nature be limping along, with
only part of the cylinders working, and
meet the acid test, and there is generally
a fee for the specialist.

The perfect meal is that meal which,
in the planning, considers only foods
that will combine harmoniously. Grape-
fruit, so popular as an appetizer, is an
acid pure and simple. It should not be
followed by a tomato soup, a fish salad,
with a sour dressing, an acid fruit pie or
vegetables like turnips, beans, celery,
cabbage or other known gassy foods.

Proceed, rather, in this way: Grape-
fruit, cream of lettuce or pea soup, baked
sweet or white potatoes with the meat
course, peas, string beans or asparagus,
followed by an egg or cream-cheese salad,
, a pudding, hot or cold, fancy jelly or
Spanish cream. No trouble would follow
such a combination, for all items fol-
lowing the grape-fruit would tend to
neutralize its acid. Even if Nature were
limping a bit, this dinner would aid her
rather than give additional trouble to
overcome.

Continued on page 222

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4082. — "Can you give me a recipe
for a Ginger Ale Salad, made with gelatine, with
or without fruit?"

The recipe to which you refer appeared
under "Seasonable and Tested Recipes"
in the June-July, 1914, number of this
magazine, and is as follows:

Ginger Ale Salad

Soften one-fourth a package of gelatine
in one-fourth a cup of cold water and let
dissolve in a dish of hot water; add a
grating of lemon rind and one cup and
three-fourths of ginger ale. Turn into
small molds to chill and set. Serve very
cold on heart-leaves of lettuce, with either
French or mayonnaise dressing, to a cup
of which is added three tablespoonfuls or
more of cocktail sauce.

Query No. 4083. — "What is the delicious,
clear, cherry-red jelly served in buillon cups as
first course at Lord and Taylor's Restaurant,
New York City? I hardly think it is tomato,
not being that kind of red.

"Why does Pie Crust shrink away from the
edge of the tin in baking?

"Please give recipe for dark Cocoa Loaf Cake,
using baking powder instead of soda."

It is impossible to say from your
description whether the jelly was fruit,
vegetable, meat or fowl. It is scarcely
probable that either of the last two would
be colored red, as this would render them
unattractive. It is probable that the
jelly was one of the so-called fruit soups
which are popular as a first course in
summer. They are simple fruit juices

flavored and molded with gelatine. Vege-
table coloring is supplied with gelatine
intended for use in that way. There are
also ready-to-use fruit gelatines that are
finely flavored and colored. One firm
puts up a port flavor which gives a beauti-
ful cherry-red color. Combined with the
strawberry which this firm puts up the
resulting jelly is of a beautiful, clear,
cherry red, and has a pleasantly tart, rich
flavor.

There are several reasons why the
crust may shrink from the pan. Of
course, all pastry leaves the pan to a cer-
tain degree when baked, but if an insuf-
ficient amount of shortening is used, the
pastry will be tough and shrink in baking.
The same thing will happen if too much
wetting is used. One must train the eye
as well as the hand in order to keep the
same standard for texture in these days
when brands of food materials are
constantly changing.

Any recipe for chocolate cake can be
used with cocoa substituted for an equal
amount of chocolate, and any chocolate
cake can be made with baking powder
instead of soda, using the standard
amount of baking powder for the amount
of flour used. Chocolate cake is better
made with soda as the chocolate unites,
chemically, better with soda. If added
when the chocolate mixture is hot the
cake will be red in color and taste of the
soda. The following recipe makes a
small loaf.

210

whvj use
butter
i n cake ?

AgiSCOl)

\J w dak Hating,

Get Crisco from your grocer in
this sanitary, air-tight can. It
is never sold in bulk. There is
nothing else like it. Sizes, one
pound net weight and larger.

Can you answer these ques-
% tions about cake making?

What are the five principal
ways of making cakes? Why
should plenty of sugar be used
in a cheap cake? What makes
a cake crack? What kind of
texture does sweet milk give to
cake? What kind does butter-
milk give? — The answer to all
of these questions is given in
"The Calendar of Dinners" — a
231-page book that is a real
mine of information for every
cook and housewife. Gives you
the correct methods for all
kinds of cooking; gives 615
appetizing recipes; gives a
complete dinner recipe for
every day in the year. Cloth
bound. Written by Marion
Harris Neil. Send only 10
cents in postage, and receive a
copy, postpaid. Address De-
partment A-10, The Procter &
Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio.

It seems a useless expense, when you
can just add a little salt (a teaspoon -
ful for every cupful of Crisco) and
make the most delicious, delicate,
tender cakes, with the real butter
taste, at half of butter cost.

Cakes enriched with Crisco are a de-
light in every way. They are fine-
grained, light and fluffy, and stay
fresh and moist unusually long.
White cakes, especially, are snowy
marvels that are a real tribute to
Crisco's whiteness and purity.

Crisco is always fresh, sweet and
uniformly good, down to the last
spoonful. It does not turn rancid —
a fact you will appreciate if you
have tried to make a fine cake with
cooking butter which was not strictly
fresh.

Use Crisco to make perfect pie-crust and
biscuits, and for all your frying. Things
will be extra good and wholesome, too,
because Crisco is all vegetable. Try this
modern cooking fat — better and more
economical for every purpose.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

211

212

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cocoa Cake with Baking Powder

Cream together one-half cup of butter
and one cup of sugar. Add the yolks of
cwo eggs, well beaten, and one-half cup
of milk. Mix one cup and a half of
flour, one teaspoonful and a half of baking
powder and two heaping teaspoonfuls
of cocoa. Add this to the batter and
fold in the stiffly-beaten whites of the
two eggs. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla
before folding in the whites.

Query No. 4084. — "Will you please give
recipe for Boston Fudge Cake with raisin and
nut filling and chocolate icing?"

An excellent recipe for Fudge Cake with
an unusual filling is given in this number
under "Tested Recipes."

Query No. 4085. — "When in the 'States'
recently I was interested to see the use made of
Cottage Cheese. Could you not give us a
recipe for making and others for using?"

The simplest method of making Cot-
tage Cheese gives the best results. As
soon as milk has soured sufficiently to
form a solid curd that shows no whey, it
is ready for turning into cheese. This will
usually be on the second day of souring,
although the process will take longer in
winter. It can always be hastened by
keeping the milk in a warm room. As
soon as the entire mass has turned to a
uniform curd, turn it into a square of
cheesecloth or thin bag, hang it up and
allow to drip all night. In the morning
squeeze gently (to avoid pressing the
curd through the cloth), and fold the
bag in such a way that the cheese is
gathered into a ball. Put under a heavy
weight for several hours. When com-
paratively dry turn the curd into a bowl
and break into bits with a fork. Add
salt cautiously and sweet cream to make
a moist mass. Stir well with the fork,
add more cream and salt if needed. The
cheese will stand quite a generous amount
of salt. In this form it is ready to serve
as an accompaniment to Boston Brown
Bread or white bread and butter. The
cheese can be shaped into balls, flattened
and allowed to dry out. A gelatinous
coating forms over the cakes and many
consider the cheese at its best in this form.

Cottage Cheese made from junket has
the advantage of being predigested. A
custard mixture, flavored with lemon
juice and the grated rind and with Cot-
tage Cheese to give "body," makes a
good filling for tarts and pies.

Query No. 4086. — "Please give a recipe
for a new cake called 'Honeymoon Cake,
which is an Angel Food layer cake, one layei
being white and the other yellow."

Recipe for Honeymoon Cake

We are not familiar with the cake you
name, but judge it is made of the usua'
Angel Food and Sunshine Cake.

Recipe for Angel Cake

One cup of egg-whites (seven to nine,
according to size of the eggs), beaten til'
frothy. Add a pinch of salt and part oi
a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Con-
tinue beating, and at intervals add the
remainder of the teaspoonful of cream
of tartar. When the bowl can be turned
up-side down without the eggs moving,
they are stiff enough. Have ready one
cup and a fourth of granulated sugar.
free from lumps or coarse crystals. Have
ready measured one cup of flour which
has been sifted several times before
measuring. Sprinkle one-third of the
flour over the stiff whites and one-third
of the sugar. Toss the eggs over the
sugar and flour with a fork and only
enough to partly cover. Do not make
any motion that approaches stirring.
Toss in the second third of the two
materials and toss lightly once or twice.
Add the last third and a teaspoonful of
almond extract. The last tossing should
distribute the sugar and flour enough and
the mixture in the bowl should not be
diminished in volume. If it is, you have
stirred out most of the air upon which
you depended for both lightness and
volume. This recipe should give two
good-sized loaves of the kind that really
does "melt in one's mouth."

Recipe for Sunshine Cake

Beat the yolks of five eggs till thick
and light-colored. Beat the whites of
seven eggs till foamy; add a pinch of

ADVERTISEMENTS

WHO ARE THE BEST JUDGES
OFA BAKING POWDER?

Those whose profession and reputation de-
pend upon their knowledge of the best bak-
ing materials. Among the first to use
Kyzon and endorse it as the Perfect Baking
Powder were domestic science experts and
physicians.

Their verdict is confirmed by the chefs of
famous hotels, clubs and institutions. And
more than a million good homekeepers have
adopted Ryzon.

Ryzon is 40c for a full 16 ounce pound.
There are also loo and Joe packag* s.

Some of the leading hotels, clubs and institutions using Ryzon :

Hotel
Hotel
Hotel
Hotel
Hotel

New York City

The Waldorf-Astoria

Hotel Astor

The Commodore

The Belmont

The Ansonia

Hotel Majestic

The Biltmore

Hotel Bossert (B'klyn)

Hotel Bretton Hall

Knickerbocker

Manhattan

McAlpin

Ritz-Carlton

Pennsylvania

The Plaza

Hotel St. Regis

Hotel Vanderbilt

Hotel Martinique

Hotel Belleclaire

Hotel Gotham

Hotel Hamilton

Hotel Robert Fulton

Hotel Woodstock

The Knott Hotels

The Colony Club

Lambs' Club

New York Yacht Club

Midday Club

Bankers' Club

Montauk Club
(Brooklyn)

Aero Club

Catholic Club

Friars' Club

The Harvard Club

Masonic Club

Metropolitan Club

National Arts Club

University Club for
Women

Yale Club

Manhattan Eye. Ear
and Throat Hospital

Neurological Hospital

N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R.

N. Y. Woman's Ex-
change

Salvation Army

Y. M. C. A.

Y. W. C. A. Cafeteria

Cafe Savarin

Delmonico's

Schrafft's

Lord & Taylor
Restaurant

Metropolitan Museum

Restaurant
Downtown Association
Chicago, 111.
The Blackstone
Cnicago Beach Hotel
Parkway Hotel
Edgewater Beach

Hotel
Plaza Hotel
Illinois Athletic Club
Marshall Field Tea

Room
Presby. Hospital
Philadelphia. Pa.
Hotel Adelphia
The Ritz-Carlton
Hotel. Walton
Hotel Normandie
St. James Hotel
Cnion League Club
Penn. State Hospital
Hahnemann Hospital
Pennsylvania fiospital
Presbyterian Hospital
Woman's Hospital of

Philadelphia
Strawbridge & Clothier
Cheri

Cafe L'Aiglon
Boston. Mass.
Copley Plaza Hotel
Marston's Food Shops
Hotel Brunswick
Hotel Somerset
Hotel Thorndike
Hotel Victoria
Hotel Westminster
Boston City Club
College Club
City Hospital
Mass. General Hos-
pital
Children's Hospital
Peter Bent Brigham

Hospital
Woman's Educational

and Industrial Union
Y. M C. A.
Binghamton. N. Y.
Binghamton State

Hospital
Buffalo N. Y
Hotel Statler
Statler Restaurant
Y. W. C. A.

Clifton Springs. X. Y.

Clifton Springs
Sanitarium
Cooperstown. N. Y.

The O-te-sa-ga
Middletown, N. Y.

Ontario & Western Ry.
Rochester, X. Y.
Genesee Valley Club
Rochester Gen. Hos-
pital
Rochester State
Hospital

Syracuse, N. Y.

Syracuse University
Schrafft's

West Point, N. Y.

U. S. Military Acad-
emy
Tuskegee. Ala.

Tuskegee Institute
Colorado Springs. Colo.

The Broadmoor
New Haven. Conn.

Hotel Taft
Eastern Point. Conn.

The Griswold
Miami. Fla.

Cocoanut Inn

Hotel Esmeralda

Hotel Plaza

Atlanta. Ga.

notel Ansley

Sandersville, Ga.

oanaersviile Sani-
tarium

Savannah, Ga.

The DeSoto
Hotel Savannah
Ocean Steamship Co.

Des Moines, la.

Hotel Fort Des Moines

New Orleans, La.

Hotel Grunewald
The St. Charles
Presbyterian Hospital

Baton Rouge. La.

Istruma Hotel
Annapolis, Md.

U. S. Naval Academy

Baltimore. Md.

The Southern Hotel

The Emerson Hotel

Woman's Hospital

Univ. of Md. Hospital
Cambridge Ma-.s.

Cambridge Hospital
Detroit. Mich.

Hotel Statler

Hotel Tuller

Detroit Athletic Club
Kansas City, Mo.

Fred Harvey System.
Atlantic City, N. J.

The Ambassador

Ihe Breakers

HacTdon Hall

Hotel St. Charles

Seaside House
Morristown. N. J.

Morristown Memorial
Hospital
Newark, N. J.

Hotel Robert Treat
Spring Lake Beach, N.J.

Hotel Essex and Sus-
sex
Albuquerque N. 31.

Hotel Alvarado
Cleveland, Ohio

Cleveland Yacht Club

Hotel Statler

Hollenden Hotel

Union Club

Winton Hotel

Cleveland Athletic
Club
Pittsburgh. Pa.

Wm. Penn Hotel

Fort Pitt Hotel
Galveston, Texas

Hotel Galvez Co.
Houston, Texas.

Hotel Rice
Richmond. Ya.

The Jefferson

Hotel Richmond

The Westmoreland
Club

Y. W. C. A.
Milwaukee, Wis.

Milwaukee Athletic
Club
Grand Canyon. Ariz.

El Tovar Hotel

The Ryzon Baking Book (original price SI. 00) containing
250 practical home recipes, zvilt be mailed, postpaid, upon
receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except in Canada. A. pound
tin of Ryzon and a copy of Ryzon Baking Book will be sent
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher who zvrites
us on school stationery, giving official position.

Ryzon

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

GENERALCHEMICALCO.

FOOD DEPARTMENT

NEW YORK

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

213

214

AMERICAN COOKERY

salt and one-half teaspoonful of cream of
tartar. Continue as for Angel Cake.
Have ready for instant use one cup of
granulated sugar and two-thirds a cup of
flour. Add the beaten yolks with a
toss, then the sugar and flour as directed
for Angel Food. Add a squeeze of
lemon juice. This makes a large loaf
if properly mixed.

Both these cakes should be put into
an oven that has a steady, moderate
heat that is not increased, and the door
should not be opened till the cakes are
done, which will be in about forty-five
minutes, if the oven is right.

Filling for Honeymoon Cake

Nothing could be better for this than
plain boiled icing made in perfection.
Flavor with equal parts of extract of
lemon and vanilla.

Query No. 4087. — "Now that we cannot
get brandy for Plum Puddings and Fruit Cake,
what can we use to make them keep? I heard
vinegar would do. If so, how would you use
it and could you give us a tested recipe for both
cake and pudding?",

Brandy Substitute for Fruit Cake
and Plum Pudding

As far as we know there is no sub-
stitute for brandy in either of the articles
you mention. Vinegar may prevent
mold or the appearance of other un-
desirable conditions, but it would not
improve the flavor nor develop it.
Vinegar from spiced sweet pickles is a
real addition to mincemeat, but that
needs an acid flavor. As a matter of
fact, fruit cakes and puddings will keep
perfectly well without brandy except in
climates that cause bacteria to develop
rapidly. In that case we doubt whether
even brandy would be effective for a very
long time.

We would recommend cutting out the
milk in the things you name and sub-
stituting very strong coffee and grape
juice. An ordinary fruit cake is im-
mensely improved by the addition of

two tablespoonfuls of fine, powderedl
charcoal that may be purchased at the;
drug store. The improvement consists;
in the fact that the charcoal assists!
digestion and prevents one from the!
discomfort that always attends indul-
gence in spiced sweets. The presence
of the charcoal is known in no other way.
We should be tempted to use three or
four tablespoonfuls of it as a preserva-
tive, in a purely experimental way.
The recipes given are known to be good,|
but have no preservatives. Another
factor that assures good keeping is the
thorough baking of the cake. Four
hours in a moderate, steady oven is j
none too long. When perfectly cool
wrap in oiled paper, or glazed wrapping]
paper.

Fruit Cake without Preservatives

One pound of butter, one pound of
sugar, twelve eggs, one cup of New
Orleans molasses, one cup of very strong
coffee, one pound of flour browned to a
medium and even brown, two pounds of
seeded raisins, two pounds of currants or
sultana raisins, one pound of candied
cherries, one pound of candied citron
sliced thin, two tablespoonfuls of cinna-
mon, one tablespoonful of cloves, one
small nutmeg, one teaspoonful of black
pepper. Add one teaspoonful and a
half of soda to the molasses. More flour
will be necessary and it is best to use that
unbrowned.

Plum Pudding

\ cup flour
\ teaspoonful salt
\ nutmeag, grated
\ teaspoonful mace
4 eggs, beaten very

light
1 cup milk

2 cups fine bread

crumbs
2 cups fine-chopped

suet {\ pound)

1 cup sugar

\ pound raisins
\ pound currants
\ cup nut meats,

sliced
\ pound citron, sliced

2 ounces candied peel,

sliced thin

Mix together bread, suet, sugar, fruit,
nuts; add the flour, sifted with the salt
and spices; mix thoroughly with the

ADVERTISEMENTS

A Penny Dish

Forms the School-Boy's
Ideal Breakfast

Better than 10c
Meat Foods

A big dish of Quaker Oats and milk costs about
a penny.

In meat or eggs the same nutrition, measured by-
calories, costs from 8 to 10 cents.

In Quaker Oats you serve the ideal boy-
food. It is almost a complete food — the
greatest food that grows.

No meat food compares with oats as nutri-
ment for young folks.

1810 Calories Per Pound

The calory is* the energy measure of food
value. Quaker Oats yields 1810 calories per
pound, which is twice as much as beef.

The cost at this writing, compared with
other necessary foods, is about as follows:

Cost Per 1000 Calories

Quaker Oats

5%c

Round Steak

33c

Veal or Lamb . . ,

46c

Average Fish . . ,

50c

Eggs .....

50c

Stewing Hens

52c

Saves $10 Per Month

A Quaker Oats breakfast, in the average home, will save $10 monthly com-
pared with meat or egg breakfasts.

And it starts the day with the food of foods.

Serve other foods at other meals. People need variety. But use this one-
cent breakfast dish to average up your food cost.

uaaker Oat

Flaked from the Richest Grains

15 and 35c per Package (Except in the Far West and South)
Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover

3193

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

211

216

AMERICAN COOKERY

eggs and milk. Steam six hours in a
buttered mold. Serve with hard sauce.

Query No. 4088. —"Will you kindly give a
recipe for pickling carrots?"

Recipe for Pickling Carrots

Select tiny carrots no larger than your
little finger. Wash well and trim off
the crown, but do not scrape. If it
is not possible to secure the little ones,
get them as small as possible and scrape,
trim and cut into quarters. Pack close
in a pint jar and add also one white
onion the size of a walnut, sliced thin, and
the sliced pulp of a lemon that has been
skinned. Mix one tablespoonful of salt,
the same of sugar, one-half a tablespoon-
ful of mustard, and one-fourth a table-
spoonful of curry powder. Stir this to
a paste with cider vinegar. Turn into
the jar and fill with either cider or malt
vinegar or a mixture of the two. Seal.
These are very tart and crisp and ready
to use in a week.

HOSE
SUPPORTER

JOYS and GIRLS enjoy
the lightness and comfort-
able security of Velvet Grip Sup-
porters. And they are the most
economical because they prevent
injury to stockings and give the
longest wear.
George FrostCo., Makers, BOSTON

Unusual Sweets from Vegetables

Vegetable Marrow Jam

Select half-grown marrows, and if they
•have been cut from the vines for at least
two weeks, all the better. Cut the mar-
row into slices about an inch thick, pare
and remove the seeds. Cut the pieces
into half-inch cubes or into thin slices.
Place in a bowl and cover with sugar.
Add also the grated yellow rind of lemons
and their juice. Preserved or fresh ginger
root is an addition. Let this stand over
night. In the morning drain off the
juice and let it boil for half an hour. Add
the marrow and ginger, and let all simmer
slowly till the marrow is transparent.
The result will be the daintiest of mar-
malades. A few slices of lemon (skin
and all) cut very thin and dropped in
just long enough to cook through
before the marmalade is done make a
pretty addition. This marmalade should
be put into small glasses.

The following proportions make a
large quantity, but are a guide for a
smaller amount. For six pounds of
marrow cubes allow six pounds of sugar,
one-quarter pound of ginger root and the
rind and juice of three lemons.

Imitation Apricot Jam

Scrape a pound or more of carrots and
slice thin. Cover with a quart of water
and boil till tender. Drain well and run
through the meat-grinder. Set in a cool
place over night. In the morning add,
to three cups of carrots, the juice and
grated yellow rind of two lemons, four
cups of sugar and about two dozen
blanched almonds cut fine. Let stand
till the sugar is pretty well dissolved;
stir well and simmer sowly till the mass
is smooth and thick. Add as little water
as possible. Just before taking from the
fire add a few drops of essence of bitter
almonds. Put in small retainers and seal
tight.

"Another labor problem is how men
with no work can strike for more pay."

ADVERTISEMENTS

Don't miss a treat !

Whv SHOULD vou ? A rich surprise is in store for vou in the first
taste of Wheatena — the nut-like, never-tiring breakfast food.
Wholesome hearts-of-the-wheat in every spoonful. You never get
enough of it! Your palate ever pleads for more of this mouth-
watering delicacy. So<g-o-o-d, so nutritious. One never tires of
Wheatena — you eat it week after week, month after month, with

the same keen satisfaction. TEST
this truth. Order Wheatena of
your grocer to-day.

Wheatena always Tastes Good

Everyone likes it, not only as a
breakfast" cereal but it is popular
at lunch and dinner too — it has
many delicious uses. Because it is
easily prepared housewives find it
useful as a staple food in the home.

The Wheatena Company.

Wheatena ville,

Rahwav, New Jersey

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

217

The Silver Lining

The House in Bond Street

Oho, for the house in Bond Street,

Where our neighbor's elan doth dwell;

And the good things that come

From the kitchen, clean,
I hardly, forsooth, can tell.

There are jellies and jams and doughnuts and
breads,

And the loveliest cakes and pies;
For you must know that the neighbor's wife

Is a cook, exceedingly wise.

Don't you wish you lived neighbor in Bond
Street,
To that cook, exceedingly wise?
Then you, too, might partake
Of the things she can make,
Like jellies and cakes and pies.

— Grace S. Burr.

Give Them Rope

While the Germans were marching
through a Belgian province, one of them
said sneeringly to a farmer sowing seed:

"You may sow, but we shall reap."

'Well, perhaps you may," was the
reply; "I am sowing hemp."

— Montreal Journal of Commerce.

Artificially

The Brute: "I think that women are
much better-looking than men."
She: "Naturally." •
The Brute: "No, artificially."

— Tit-Bits.

Mark Twain, so the story goes, was
walking on Hannibal Street when he met
a woman with her youthful family. "So
this is the little girl, eh?" Mark said to
her as she displayed her children. "And
this sturdy urchin in the bib belongs, I
suppose, to the contrary sex." " Yassah,"
the woman replied, "dat's a girl, too."

— The Summary.

This New Range Is A
,Wonder For Cooking

Although less than four feet long it can do every kind
of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in summer
or by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating.

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as

the gas section is as entirely separate from the coal
section as if placed in another part of the kitchen.

Note the two gas
ovens above — one

for baking, glass
paneled and one for
broiling with white
enamel door. The
large square oven

Coal, Wood and Gas Range

below is heated by coal or wood.

The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy'

See the cooking surface when you want to rush things— five burners
for gas and four covers for coal. The entire range is always available

as both coal and gas ovens can be operated at the same time, using
one for meats and the other for pastry. It Makes Cooking Easy.

,#*& 41 Gold Medal m

Glenwood

Write to-day for handsome free booklet 165 that tells all about it, to

Weir StOVe Co., Taunton, MaSS. Manufacturers of the Celebrated Glenwood

Coal, Wood and Gas Ranges, Heating Stoves and Furnaces.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

218

ADVERTISEMENTS

THE
WOODEN DISH

will not waste or
contaminate the
foodstuffs your
dealer puts into
it. You can get
out all the food
that goes in.

Demand Wooden Dishes
for Bulk Foods

—

EASTERN SALES OFFICE
•IOW. 40™ ST.
NEW YORK CITY

MANU FACTURER

STSRM SAIES OFFICE
37 S.WABASH AVE.
CHICAGO -ILL.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

219

AMERICAN COOKERY

TECO

SELF-RISING

Pancake

and Buckwheat

Flour

teg*

<$*&&»

IV a In the Flour.

A little TECO and cold water and
you have enough pancakes for the
family. And TECO pancakes are
as delicious as they are nourishing
because there is malted butter-
milk mixed with the flour.

THE EKENBERG CO.

CORTLAND, N. Y.
SAWYER CRYSTAL BLUE CO.

New England Agents
88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

NESNAH for
School Children

Children must be well nourished in
order to study and succeed in school.

The food they eat at this time is very
important. Try an After - School -
Lunch of Chocolate Nesnah.

(The sugar and chocolate already in it)

The children will like it because it is
delicious. They should have it be-
cause it is wholesome. Keep a few
glasses made up in the refrigerator
and let them help themselves.

HESM

Six pure natural flavors

Vanilla
Almond

Orange
Lemon

Raspberry
Chocolate

Ask your grocer for Nesnah or order direct from
The Junket Folks — a free sample and a booklet of
recipes on request.

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, Inc.

THE JUNKET FOLKS
Box 2570 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.

First Farmer: "How do you find your
new hired man, Ezry?" Second Farmer:
"I look in the shade of the tree nearest
his work." — ■ Buffalo Express.

Customer: "You label those eggSj
'Fresh from the country.' Are they the
same as I got here yesterday?"

Grocer: "Yes, sir."

Customer: "What country do you
mean, China?" — London Opinion.

Kind Old Lady: "Why, you brute!
Don't you know better than to abuse a
poor mule with a sore foot?"

Colored Driver: "He's a a-awmy mule,
he ain't lame. He's just

ma am, an'

standin' at parade rest." — Life.

Visitor (being shown round the grounds
of estate bought by profiteer): "That
tower, I believe, goes back to William
the Conqueror."

Profiteer: "Oh, no, it don't; I've
bought the lot." ■ — ■ Blighty, London.

Airs. Pankhurst tells the following
of a little Anglo-Indian child: "She
had just come from India to be put to
school, and one night she stayed with
me all night. After she had been put
to bed I visited her room to see if she
was all right. In the dim light I saw
the little white-robed figure groping on
its knees in the cot, and I whispered to
my daughter, 'The little thing is saying
her prayers.' A tiny voice came from
the cot. 'Where the debil's my dolly?' •

— Detroit Free Press.

Teco Self-Rising Pancake and Buck-
wheat Flours are prepared with Malted
Buttermilk; to be used without milk —
just add water. The buttermilk is in the
flour.

With Teco and a little cold water you
have enough pancakes for the family, and
Teco Pancakes are as delicious as they
are nutritious, because there is MALTED
BUTTERMILK mixed in the flour
— Adv.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

220

ADVERTISEMENTS

Making Food Attractive

In her great novel, "Middlemarch," George Eliot says :

"It is strange how deeply colors seem to penetrate one, like scent. I
suppose that is one of the reasons why gems are used as spiritual emblems
in the Revelations of St. John."

The gifted author had no thought of food when she wrote these words,
but the application is there, nevertheless.

Relish for food involves two elements, vigor of appetite and the attrac-
tiveness of the food in appearance and taste.

Has any cook or dietitian ever served anything in the
form of food which met these conditions more satisfac-
torily than

does ? And does anything else require so little time and
so little "fussing" as Jell-0 does, or always turn out to be
perfect, as Jell-0 dishes do ?

Jell-0 is made in six pure fruit flavors : Strawberry,
Raspberry, Lemon, Orange, Cherry, Chocolate.

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY
Le Roy, N. Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

221

AMERICAN COOKERY

Salt Mackerel

CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER

RIGHT FROM THE FISHING BOATS TO YOU

FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK
E. DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE
OCEAN FISH, choicer than any inland dealer could
possibly furnish.

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT,
cending by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We
PREPAY express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish
ere pure, appetizing and economical and we want YOU
to try some, payment subject to your approval.

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not
spoil on your hands.

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from
meat, at a much lower cost.

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads.
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled
and packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They
come to you as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy
and the meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from
the shell yourself.

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your
whole family will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that o:'
clams, whether fried or in a chowder.

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled
SALMON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY
for salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing
packed here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep
right on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use.

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES for
preparing all our products. Write for it. Our list
tells how each kind of fish is put up, with the
delivered price, so you can choose just what ..■■'

you will enjoy most. Send the coupon for it ...--*"*

now.

FRANK E. DAVIS CO.

311 Central Wharf,

Gloucester, ..--'''

Mass. .---"""

..--" Name

,,--''' Frank E.

..--*'" Davis Co.,

,.-""' 311 Central Wharf,

■-""' Gloucester, Mass.

Please send me your latest

Fish Price List.

Street

Cify ... State

The Acid Test

Concluded from page 20Q

We do not need lessons in chemistry
or the knowledge of expert dietitians to
avoid the troubles caused by improper
food combinations. We need only a
judicious application of common sense.
A couple of hours spent in a public library
with books on garden products and we
could learn' soon all we need to know
about the acid tests of vegetables and
fruits.

The seasons of various foodstuffs
should be studied so that these may be
used, treated or discarded intelligently.
Because hot-house production, refrigera-
tor cars and cold storage plants make it
possible for us to eat anything, at any
season, the wholesomeness of foods is
not insured.

Canned goods often acquire acids and
gases that play havoc with the digestive
organs, so that every precaution should
be taken to secure only the most reliable
brands, to empty the cans as soon as
opened, and inspect the contents most
carefully before using. If there is fer-
mentation present, a foreign odor or any
unusual appearance about the contents,
the can should be returned immediately
to the shop from which it was purchased
with a complaint that may save others
a like experience.

Cooking acids in tin utensils is another
fruitful way of making trouble, but it
is easily avoided by replacing tinware
with the more modern wares designed to
evade this very trouble.

Slightly rancid oils, usually noticeable
on various kinds of canned fish, mingled
with lemon juice, generally offered with
fish, are almost sure to start internal

ANGLEFOO

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says In the bulletin: "Special
pains should be taken to prevent children from drinking poi-
soned baits and poisoned files dropping Into foods or drinks."

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

222

ADVERTISEMENTS

AFTER you've learned the
l\ various uses for Cox's In-
stant Powdered Gelatine, you
won't try to keep house without it!

Cox's is not a "prepared" food
— you're not confined to jellied
desserts, for Cox's also makes
delicious ice cream, blanc mange,
frozen custard and sauces as well
as soups, salads and savories.

Cox's is unflavored and un-
sweetened, so you can add pure
wholesome flavors of the kind
you prefer and sweeten it to
your taste.

Instant Powdered

JOT'S:!

■0» MANUAL ^ ■ ■

«0» OF C+mm

^~ u u

GELATINE &

^ COOKERY^

■■■■■■■

a ■

Send for a free
copy of "Cox's
Manual of Gela-
tine Cookery.'

The Cox Gelatine Company

)ept. D, 100 Hudson St., New York

BE PARTICULAR !

SPICE may be a small item In
the family cupboard, but if it is
not absolutely CLEAN" and PURE
it is apt not only to be worthless
but actually dangerous.

Brand

SPICES

are famed for purity, strength, and
flavor. No human hand touches them
from thetime they enterour warerooms,
direct from their native lands, until they
reach your home. Every particle of dust and
foreign matter is removed by special processes.
They come to you %o clean, sweet and pun-
gent, that they not only are the best and
safest Spices to use, but also the most eco-
nomical of any on the market.

Next time you buy Spices, Flavoring Extracts, Gelatine,
Prepared Mayonnaise, Salad Dressing, Mustard, etc.,
insist upon getting BEE-BRAND and you will be
sure of highest quality and value — guaranteed abso-
lutely pure.

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, Md,

Importers and Manufacturers

(Proprietors of the Famous BANQUET TEA)

Our BEE-BRAND
Manual of Cookery can
now be secured for 50c
in coin or stamps. Send
also for our free book-
lets containing many
interesting facts concern-
ing Spices, Tea and
Flavoring Extracts.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

223

AMERICAN COOKERY

dissension, often productive of serious
results. Stale eggs, bitter butter, sour
yeast, and imperceptibly tainted food,
disguised by highly seasoned sauces, will
create "heartburn" or worse, not dan-
gerous, perhaps, but uncomfortable.
Foods fried in rancid fats, or fats tainted,
like foods, from a carelessly kept re-
frigerator, are among the unforgivable
causes of trouble, because it is unneces-
sary. The lobster does not always bring
the ptomaine poison concealed about its
person, for if it is fresh and lively when
cooked, is cooled naturally and removed
from the shell properly, no trouble will
follow indulgence in eating it freely.
But if it is "still" before cooking, is
iced to cool it, and improperly taken from
the shell, trouble may result. If there
be a spot of ptomaine in lobster or
chicken prepared for salad, it is the
addition of the salad-oil dressing that
liberates it and infects the entire mass.

The idea of serving relishes before
meals came originally from Russia, where
many fine points of banquet serving may
be traced, though the "Smorgesbord"
of Sweden is the most elaborate example
of the custom in vogue today. Phy-
sicians decry this relish as an abomination
and despoiler of the natural appetite for
wholesome food. The table d'hote man-
agers encourage its use for the same reason
as it may be followed by attenuated
portions without calling attention to
cheap profiteering.

Cocktails, served with a half-dozen
sour or spiced relishes, sent to guests
before dinner, are often the cause of the

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeeper s," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

224

ADVERTISEMENTS

Send Today!

This wonderful new booklet of
cake, pie and fine pastry recipes has
just been published! Janet McKen-
zie Hill, the famous domestic science
expert, prepared it.

Every page of "Cake Secrets"
contains valuable information — such
as is found in no other booklet.

You'll find so many new tested
recipes for cakes and pastries, with
full instructions for baking. Ele-
gant colored illustrations are a help-
ful feature.

Send us 10 cents ^currency or
stamps) and we will forward you a
copy of "Cake Secrets."

Prepared {Jlot Self -Rising)

Wax Paper
Wrapped

Preferred by Housewives for 24years

It takes a special cake flour to make the best cake and pastries. Experts
are agreed on this. Swans Down Cake Flour makes lighter, whiter, finer
cakes — perfect every time! It is the old, reliable product. Ask your best
grocer. If he does not have it,
send us his name and we will For Convenience, UseJThtsJJoupon^

see that you are supplied. HcLEHEART BROTHERS, Evansville. Ind.

_ I Please send me a copy of your new Cake

IGLEHEART BROTHERS ' Secrets" written by Janet McKenzie Hill. lam

Established 1856 I enclosing 10c, as per your offer in October
Dept.AC Evansville, Ind. American Cookery.

Also manufacturers of Swans I Name

Down Wheat Bran. •
Nature's laxative food. " Address - - --

A City State... - —

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

225

AMERICAN COOKERY

SEVEN-CENT MEALS *PIr50p-n~^

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

entire meal disagreeing with partakers,
who try to fasten the blame to the
oysters, lobster, or some other often-
accused viand.

The literal translation of " hors
d'ceuvres" is "outside the subject," and
it is not a bad idea to leave them there,
the subject being a good wholesome meal,
which needs no other appetizer than good
health and unimpaired digestion, that
pleads not for pampering, but for plenty.

J. y. N.
* * *

At a teachers' institute in an Eastern
city a speaker said that, in his opinion,
"the trouble with the public school
system of today is, the teachers are
afraid of the principals, the principals
are afraid of the superintendent, he is
afraid of the school committee, they are
afraid of the parents, the parents are
afraid of the children, and the children
are afraid of nobody!" — Life.

The late Sir John Mahaffy, provost of
Trinity College, Dublin, was brilliantly
witty, and many of his good sayings are
in general circulation. But he occasion-
ally met his match. One of his en-
counters was with the late Dr. Salmon,
provost of Trinity before Dr. Traill.
Mahaffy was one day inveighing against
corporal punishment for boys, which he
declared never did any good. "Take
my own case," he exclaimed. "I was
never caned but once in my life, and that
was for speaking the truth." "Well,"
Salmon retorted caustically, "it cured
you." — The Manchester Guardian.

GRANNY'S SECRET

Gake Patter

Send for

Gift
Catalog

There is a difference in the lightness

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long

remembered — the best. Perhaps you have some friend who tai

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is f

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c.

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden'

times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge

parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no

doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted

and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty/

shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts\

which will be forwarded upon application.

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

226

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Modern Milk for the

Modern Kitchen

DO you know that Carnation Milk meets every
need of Domestic Science? It is the modern
and the economical way to use milk.

Because Carnation Milk is sterilized after it has
been hermetically sealed in the new container it
will keep much longer than fresh milk.

Use Carnation wherever you use milk in cooking.
Use it undiluted on cereals and in coffee. Whip it for
desserts and salads, for it may be whipped like cream.

The only difference between Carnation Milk and fresh
milk is this — part of the water has been removed from
Carnation Milk by evaporation.

Do not confuse Carnation Milk with "sweetened-con-
densed" milk, for it contains no sugar and is sterilized.

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS CO.

SEATTLE CHICAGO AYLMER, ONT.

Evaporatories located in the better dairying sections of the United States arid Canada

arnation

From Contented Cows

Milk

The label is white and red

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

227

AMERICAN COOKERY

Clover -Leaf Dinner Rolls

"—And let rise in a place between 80° and 90°.
Bake at W0" , ,.

That isLhe modern scientific way of reading
recipes. Not "let rise in a warm place." net
"bake in a 'slow,' 'moderate' or hot oven" but
— the exact temperatures in unmistakable fig-
ures. Get the three Taylor Recipe Books and
see how it's done.

They'll show you the modern way — the chet s
way_ the oniy Safe and sure way to cook. And
they'll save you no end of fuel waste.

dor Instrument Companies Rochester, N. Y.

Oven

Thermometer. $1.75
Candy

Thermometer, 1.50
Sugar Meter 1-tO

The three for $4.25

Prices in Canada and
Far West proportion-
ately higher.

If your dealer can't sup-
ply the Taylor Home Set

or will n ot order for you ,
mail $4.25 direct to us
with dealer's name and
it will be sent prepaid

"■" " ''"-"',",, =

Housekeeper's size, I §oz. , .30 prepaid

Caterer's size, !6oz., $1.00

(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN, N. Y.

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMO-VESCO.
Send for a bottle today.

"Nellie is just like cider, so sweet until
she starts to work."

— Michigan Gargoyle.

Magistrate (discharging prisoner):
"Now then, I would advise you to keep
away from bad company." Prisoner
(feelingly): "Thank you, sir. You won't
see me here again." — Lippincotfs.

The Brewer: "Yes, sir, this brewery
cost me nearly a million, and now it's no
use."

Friend: "But why don't you turn it
into a soft drink factory?"

The Brewer: "Never, sir! It's a
matter of conscience with me." — Judge.

Mistress (to cook) : "Now, Bridget,
I'm going to give a Christmas party. I
sincerely hope you will make yourself
generally useful." Bridget (much flat-
tered): "Shure, mum, Oi'll do my best;
but [confidentially] Oi'm so sorry Oi
can't dance, mum."

— ■ Glasgow Evening Times.

A negro was trying to saddle a mule
when a bystander asked, "Does that
mule ever kick you?'' "No, suh, but he
kicks sometimes whar I'se jes' been."

x»^

Trade Mark, Registered.

vXvGluten Flour

40% GLUTEN

Guaranteed to comply in all reapecta .o

Standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FARWELL & RHINES

Waterlowa, N. Y.

Z*V

y%\

Eat More Bread

Bread is the most important food
we eat. It furnishes abundant
nourishment in readily digestible
form. The fact that it never be-
comes tiresome though eaten day
after day, is proof of its natural
food qualities.

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

228

ADVERTISEMENTS

You can have, in your home

— no matter where you live

— the most wonderfully fresh fish, specially cooked

and prepared for you, so that they are as fresh

and flavory as on the day taken from the ocean.

BURNHAM& MORRILL
FISH FLAKES

the finest fish product for making Creamed Fish, Codfish Balls,
Fish Souffle, Fish Chowder, Fish Salad, and many other dainty
and delicious fish dishes. . Only the firm white meat of se-
lected cod and haddock, packed in parchment lined, airtight
containers — it takes three pounds of the fresh-caught fish to
make one pound of B & M Fish Flakes.

No shredding, no boning, no loss of time or delayed meals.
These pictures show three of the toothsome, appetizing dishes
you can prepare quickly: our new "Book of Recipes" will be
sent on request — ask for it.

B 6C M Fish Flakes, packed in a clean sanitary, factory at the

water's edge in Portland, Maine, simplify the cooking question,

delight the family, and are nourishing as well as appetizing.

AT YOUR GROCER'S

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO.

75 Water Street, Portland, Me.

Packing and specializing in State of Maine food products— the best of their kind

— including B & M Paris Sugar Corn, B & M Pork and Beans, B & M Clam

Cho-wder, B& M Clams, B& M Lobster.

(£>"!<-

Codfish Balls

J£SS' -.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

229

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

\OUR HOMl AND
SAv I J •. OUR TIMI. THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Undershel ves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grade piece of furni-
ture surpassing anyihing yet at-
tempted for GENERAL UTILITY,
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW

for a descriptive pamphlet
and Dealers Name.
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

-T- ' 504J Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III.

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Becipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. 1 65 Oliver st., boston, mass.

SALAD SECRETS

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
less .recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
b. R. BR I GGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N. Y.

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

^ ® Red Label *

Spices

TheA.ColburnCa,
Philadelphia,USA

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand for expert assistance in private
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range
from $60 to $100 a month, or more, with
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and
an average of eight hours a day "on duty."
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are
given the same dignified social recognition as
trained graduate nurses.

Here is your opportunity — our new home-
study course for professional housekeepers will
teach you to become an expert in the selection
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and
food values, in marketing and household ac-
counts, in the management of the cleaning,
laundry work, mending, child care and training,
— in all the manifold activities of the home.
When, you graduate we place you in a satis-
factory position without charge. Some posi-
tions are non-resident, others part-time.

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

Our reputation, and fifteen years of exper-
ience backs this course. Your provisional
enrollment is invited, with no obligation or
expense to you.

American School of Home Economics,

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago.

Please enroll me, provisionally, for your new Graduate
Housekeepers' Course. Send the "Domestic Science
Library" in six volumes, de Luxe edition, with first lessons
and full details. If satisfactory, I will send first pay-
ment of $5, five days after receiving the "Library" and
subsequent payments of $5 per month until a total of $25
is sent in full payment. — for instruction, diploma and
for all expenses. The "Library" becomes my property,
and all membership privileges are to be included for three
(3) years If not suited I will return books, etc., in five
days, at your expense and will owe you nothing.

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference)

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

230

ADVERTISEMENTS

PAOM.U BY

I CHARLES B.KN0K&EUTINECO.IHC

[ J0tHUTCM*Ji.*.*SA->*O"r*tAi..<JW*3t.
• ST WEIOKT OUt OUNCe .

Mrs. Knox says.—

From What You

Mrs. Knox says.- Ht*Ve "* the Pantry

" It is really wonderful how many delicious desserts and salads you can make easily
and quickly with th.2 things you have in the pantry and

KNOX

SPARKLING

GELATINE

My free recipe books 'Dainty Desserts' and 'Food Economy' save a lot of work, worry and money. They give
an endless variety of delightful and original ways of combining Knox Sparkling Gelatine with coffee, cocoa, chocolate,
nee, preserves, fresh, dried and canned fruits, fish and vegetables.

Experts call both packages of Knox Sparkling Gelatine, 'the 4-to-1 ' Gelatine because it goes four times further than
flavored packages. One-quarter of a package will make a dessert or salad for six people.''

PERFECTION SALAD

BANANA SPONGE

1 envelope KNOX Acid-
ulated Gelatine

^ cup cold water

\ cup mild vinegar

1 pint boiling water

1 teaspoonful salt

1 cup finely shredded cab-
bage

teaspoonful LemonFlavor-
ing, found in separate en-
velope
cup sugar

cups celery, cut in small
pieces

can sweet red peppers or
fresh peppers finely cut

^ envelope KXOX Spar-
kling Gelatine
\ cup cold water
1 cup banana pulp

2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice
5 cup sugar

Whites of two eggs beaten
stiff

Soak the gelatine in cold water five minutes ; add vine-
gar, Lemon Flavoring, boiling water, sugar and salt ; stir
until dissolved. Strain, and when beginning to set add
remaining ingredients. Turn into a mold, first dipped in
cold water, and chill. Serve on lettuce leaves with may-
onnaise dressing or cut in dice and serve in cases made of
red or green peppers, or the mixture may be shaped in
molds lined with pimentoes. A delicious accompaniment
to cold sliced chicken or veal.

Note — Use Fruits instead of vegetables in the above recipe, and
you have, a delicious Fruit Salad — If the S2jarklimj pack-
age is used, two tablespoonfuls lemon juice should be
used in place of the Lemon Flavoring.

Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes. Put banana
pulp, lemon juice and sugar in saucepan and bring to the
boiling point, stirring constantly. Add soaked gelatine
and stir until cool. When mixture begins to thicken, fold
in whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, turn into wet mold or
paper cases, and sprinkle with chopped nuts if desired.

Note — If the Acidulated package is used 1-4 of the Lemon
Flavoring contained therein may be used in place of the
lemon juice in the above recipe.

Write for the Knox Recipe Books; they are free for
the asking, if you give your grocer's name and
address. Any domestic science teacher can have
sufficient gelatine for her class, if she will write
me on school stationery, stating quantity and when
needed.

107 Knox Avenue

"Whenever a recipe calls for gelatine — it means KNOX"

KNOX GELATINE

Mrs. Charles B. Knox

za..j&\..:ft±.i.\r*.jur, 2*>...A-rrzz3:

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

231

AMERICAN COOKERY

(ravrford

Crawford Combination coal and
gas ranges have won the approval of
housewives everywhere by their
economy of time, labor and fuel.

The generously proportioned coal
range has a large and roomy oven.
The Crawford Single Damper makes
it possible to always secure just the
proper degree of oven temperature.

Two interchangeable hods take
the place of the untidy old-style ash
pan — one trip serves to empty
ashes and bring back coal.

The gas attachment has five burn-
ers of anew type, which save fuel by
concentrating the heat directly
under the center of the pot or pan,
and a large oven with a broiler which
folds neatly away when not in [use.

Many other exclusive Crawford
features make for efficiency and
economy. Any Crawford dealer
will be glad to explain and demon-
strate these ranges to you.

Sold by Leading Dealers

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO.

BOSTON, U. S. A.

Makers of Highest
Quality Ranges,
Furnaces & Boilers

The real
■flavor
from +he
Maple Grove

Uncle John*
Syrup

Put up in Four
Convenient Sizes

ON GRIDDLE CAKES

Makes a wholesome and delicious break-
fast. There's nothing that will please the

family more, for everybodylovestherichmapleflavor
of Uncle John's Syrup. Once you taste it, you'll find

IT'S AS NECESSARY ON THE TABLE AS THE SUGAR AND THE CREAM

Try it on hot biscuits, steamed
bread, grape fruit or waffles.
Use it for sweetening and fla-
voring puddings, sauces and
frostings. It makes fine fudge
and candy, too. Try it in your
own recipes — or send 2c stamp
for Uncle John's Recipes - -a
collection of new and delicious
ways to make cake, cookies,
puddings and candies.

New England Maple Syrup
Co. - - Boston, Mass.

The Milky Way to Economy

52 Pages. Over 200 Recipes, from Soup to Candy

A symposium on milk by Dr. E. V. McCallum, Dr. F. A. Woods
and other emiment authorities.

Reprints from Government Bulletins and from "Models for
Children's Meals." BY MAIL 25c.

Address: Gertrude Ford Daniel, 51 Oliver Street, Boston

IDEAL

NUT CRACKER

Cracks any nut with a twist of
the wrist.

Brings out the kernels whole.

Especially good for pecans,
English walnuts, Brazil nuts,
filberts and almonds.

If your dealer does not carry, the
IDEAL write us
Style 1. Plain nickel C/^C

plated . s-}V»/

Style 4. Highly polished
nickel plated . 75 cts.

Postage paid anywhere in the United States

FRANK B.COOK CO.

320 W. Madison St. - Chicago

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

232

ADVERTISEMENTS

es? Reports

are food for Thought

Write for These Reports

A great food control laboratory has found many
important reasons why you should ask your grocer
and butcher to use wooden dishes for packaging
bulk foods.

We will send you copies of these reports.

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY

EASTERN OFFICE

110 W. 40th STREET

NEW YORK CITY

WESTERN OFFICE

37 S. WABASH AVENUE
CHICAGO, ILL.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

241

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV

NOVEMBER, 1919

No. 4

CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER

PAGE

CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS. Ill Jane Vos 251

CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY . . David H. Colcord 257

SMILE ON! Caroline L. Sumner 261

PIES A LA WESTON Alice M. Ashton 262

LESSONS IN FOOD AND COOKERY — THE POTATO

Anna Barrows 266

THE STORY OF COFFEE Carl Holliday 269

EDITORIALS 270-272

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 273

MENUS FOR WEEK IN NOVEMBER " " " 282

MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DINNERS " " " 283

PUTTING THANKS INTO THE THANKSGIVING DINNER

Wealtha A. Wilson 284

HAIL, THE CRANBERRY! Harriet Whitney Symonds 285

CHEESE Hazel B. Stevens 286

A SONG 288

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Innings — Water Plants for
Your Windows — The Narcissi — Candlesticks — Orange Jelly

— A New Fudge — Cinnamon-drop Apples 289

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 293

NEW BOOKS 298

THE SILVER LINING 306

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

242

ADVERTISEMENTS

Certain Kitchen Troubles

are dissipated by the use of
a good cook book, such as

Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book

Contains over 700<7pages; some 1,500 recipes; full directions how to do everything
— how to prepare, cook, and serve all manner of foods; how to market profitably
and select foods; how to carve, and many other things.

Bound in cloth, illustrated, 32.50; by mail, 32.70.

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes

Here's variety for you. Many choice and novel recipes for cooking and serving
our every-day vegetables and introducing some new ones not commonly seen, but
easily procured. Then you should see the many wonderful dishes where meat
does not enter in — delightful, appetizing, and nourishing.

In cloth, 31-50; by mail, 31-65.

Home Candy Making

Recipes for CreamT Confections, Fresh Fruits with Cream Jackets, Nuts and Fruit
Glaces, Nougat, Caramels, Sugar Drops, Taffy, Molasses Candies, Mint Tablets,
Fudge, Chocolate Tablets and Chips, Turkish Delight, Panoche, Salt Water Taffy,
Sea Foam, Peanut Brittle, and lots of other good and delectable sweets.

In cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents.

Mrs. Rorer's Diet for the Sick

What to eat and what to avoid in caring for the sick; how to prepare the foods
recommended; hundreds of recipes for the most tempting and nutritive dishes.

Cloth, price 32.00; by mail, 32.15.

Mrs, Rorer's Bread and Bread-Making

Recipes for Wheat Bread, Whole Wheat Bread, French and Graham Bread, 19th
Century, Golden Loaf, Swedish Bread; Small Breads, such as Vienna Rolls, Pocket
Book Rolls, Crumpets, Muffins, German Horns, Nuns' Puffs, etc.; Zwieback,
Toasts, Pulled Bread, Quick Breads, Steamed Breads, Sweet Breads, Cakes, etc.

Bound in cloth, price 75 cents; if sent by mail, 80 cents.

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

243

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR NOVEMBER

Cheese ....

Chinese Cookery and Customs
Concerning Cooks and Cookery
Editorials ....

Hail, the Cranberry!

Home Ideas and Economies .

Lessons in Food and Cookery — The Potato

Menus ......

New Books ......

Pies a la Weston .....

Putting Thanks into the Thanksgiving Dinner
Silver Lining, The ....

Smile On! ......

Song, A ..... .

Story of Coffee, The ....

• .

PAGE

286
251
257
270
285
289
266
282, 283
298
262
284
306
261
288
269

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Artichokes, Creamed

Beans, String, French Style

Cake, Almond Sponge. 111.

Cake, Italian

Cakes, Raised Potato

Chestnuts, Browned

Chicken Filets with Almond Sauce

Cream, Nutted. 111.

Jelly, Cranberry

Jelly, Harlequin. 111.

Paste, Quick Puff .

Pork Tenderloin, Broiled

Pork Tenderloin, French Style

Pork Tenderloin, Scalloped. 111.

Pork Tenderloin, Stuffed

278 Pudding. Macaroni-and-Chicken. 111.
281 Pudding, Rich Rice

279 Puffballs, Breakfast. 111.

279 Roasting Poultry and Birds

280 Roll, Apple. 111. .
278 Rolls, Coffee. 111.

281 Salad, Brazilian. 111. .

277 Sauce, Cranberry .

278 Sauce, Currant-Jelly, for Game
278 Sauce, Olive ....
280 Stuffing, Almond, for Turkey or Chicken
275 Stuffing, Bread, for Chicken and Turkey
274 Sweetbreads with Orange Sauce

274 Tomatoes, Deviled

274 Venison, Roast, Virginia Style

Chicken, Terrapin .

Eggs, Cuban, on Toast

Figs, Preserved

Figs, Spiced .

Flowers, Crystallized

Jars, Preserving

Oysters in Cucumber Cups

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

294 Peaches, Spiced

294
296
296
296
293
294

Preserve, White Grape
Sauce, Brown
Sauce, Butterscotch
Sauce, Chocolate Fudge
Waffles, Rich

276
279
277
273
280
279
277
277
281
281
276
273
281
281
276

296
293
293
296
294
296

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
244

ADVERTISEMENTS

•Si?

lip

1
M

•S

The Boston Cooking School
Cook Book

By Fannie Merritt Farmer

133 illustrations. 6oo pages. $2.25 net

Cooking For Two

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

With iso illustrations. $1.75 net

Table Service

By Lucy G. Allen

A CLEAR, concise and yet comprehensive
exposition of the waitress' duties.
Recommended by the American Library
Association: — "Detailed directions on the
duties of the waitress, including care of dining-
room, and of the dishes, silver and brass, the
removal of stains, directions for laying the
table, etc."

Fully illustrated. $1 .33 net

Kitchenette Cookery

By Anna Merritt East ._

HERE 'the culinary art is translated into
the simplified terms demanded by the
requirements of modern city life. The young
wife who studies the book carefully may be
able to save herself and her husband from
dining in restaurants. Miss East, formerly
the New Housekeeping Editor of The Ladies'
Home Journal, presents a book which will be
of great value to .all city dwellers." — New
York Sun. Illustrated. $1.25 net

Cakes, Pastry & Dessert Dishes

By Janet McKenzie Hill

Salads, Sandwiches and
Chafing Dish Dainties

^By Janet McKenzie Hill 3
OREjthanta hundred different [varie-
ties of salads among the recipes —
aiads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of
vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of
different ways." — Washington Times.
New Edition. Illustrated. $1.60 net

The Party Book

Invaluable to Every Hostess
By Winnifred Fales and
Mary H. Northend
itains a little of everything about
parties from the invitations to the enter-
tainment, including a good deal about
refreshments."— New York Sun.
With numerous illustrations from photo-
graphs. $2.50 net

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

245

AMERICAN COOKERY

Books on Household Economics

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent postpaid
upon receipt of price.

A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace

Fletcher $1.25

A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers .75
American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.50
American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef,

veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted on

cloth and rollers 10.00

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup.... 100
Art and Economy in Home Decorations.

Priestman 1.00

Art of Entertaining. Madame Merri. . . 1.00
Art of Home Candy- Making (with ther-
mometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00

Art of Right Living. Richards 50

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband.

Weaver and LeCron 1.50

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the

Home. H. W. Conn 1.20

Better Meals for Less Money. Greene 1.35
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . . 1.60
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. . 2.00
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.

Fannie M. Farmer 2.25

Bread and Bread-Making. Mrs. Rorer . .75
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50
Business, The, of the Household. Taber 2.50
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 1.00
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts.

King > 1.00

Cakes, Pastry and Dessert Dishes. Janet

M. Hill 1.60

Candies and Bonbons. Neil 1.25

Candy Cook Book. Alice Bradley 1.25

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.00
Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making.

Hill 1.25

Canning, Preserving and Pickling.

Marion H. Neil 1.25

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E.

Holt, M.D 1.00

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.25

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland 2.00

Chafing-Dish Possibilities. Farmer.... 1.25
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn . . 2.00
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu

Williams 1.50

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning.

Richards and Elliot 1.00

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 2.00
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition.

Sherman 2.00

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75

Clothing for Women. L. I. Baldt 2.50

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill. . . .75
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . 1.75

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00

Cost of Shelter. Richards $1.00

Course in Household Arts. Sister
Loretto B. Duff 1.10

Rorer

and Activity.

00
00

00
00
00

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer . . .
Diet for the Sick. Mrs.
Diet in Relation to Age

Thompson 1.

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3.

Domestic Art in Women's Education.

Cooley 1 .

Domestic Science in Elementary

Schools. Wilson 1.

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon ... 2.
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 1.

Easy Entertaining. Benton 1.

Economical Cookery. Marion Harris

Neil 1.75

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid to

Cooking. Robertson 1.00

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25

Elements of the Theory and Practice of

Cookery. Williams and Fisher 1.20

Encyclopaedia of Foods and Beverages. 10.00
Equipment for Teaching Domestic

Science. Kinne 80

Etiquette of New York Today. Learned 1.50

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 75

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.... 1.50
Every Woman's Canning Book. Hughes .75
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.25

Feeding the Family. Rose 2.10

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R.

Manning 1.00

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Con-
valescent. Fannie M. Farmer 2.00

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thompson 1.35

Food and Flavor. Finck 2.00

Food and Household Management.

Kinne and Cooley 1.20

Food and Nutrition. Bevier and Ushir 1.00

Food Products. Sherman 2.40

Food and Sanitation. Forester and

Wigley 1.00

Food and the Principles of Dietetics.

Hutchinson 4.00

Food for the Worker. Stern and Spitz. 1.00
Food for the Invalid and the Convales-
cent. Gibbs 75

Food Materials and Their Adultera-
tions. Richards 1.00

Food Study. Wellman 1.10

Food Values. Locke 1.50

Franco-American Cookery Book. Deliee 3.50
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for

Meatless Dishes). Sharpe. 2.00

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
246

ADVERTISEMENTS

Handbook for Home Economics. Ylagg $0.75
Handbook of Hospitality for Town and

Country. Florence H. Hall 1.50

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A.

Boland ' 2.00

Handbook on Sanitation. G M. Price,

M.D 1.50

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd. . . .00
Home and Community Hygiene.

Broadhurst 2.50

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer 75

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50

Home Economics Movement 75

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00

Home Furnishings, Practical and Artis-
tic. Kellogg 1.75

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.10

Home Problems from a New Standpoint 1.00
Home Science and Cook Book. Anna

Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00

Homes and Their Decoration. French.. 3.00

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75

House Furnishing and Decoration.

McClure and Eberlein 1.50

House Sanitation. Talbot 80

Housewifery. Balderston 2.50

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan . . . 2.40
Household Economics.^ Helen Campbell 1.50
Household Engineering. Christine Fred-
erick 2.00

Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. . 1.30

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25

Housekeeper's Handy Book. Baxter. . 1.00
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. Xeil 1.25
How to Cook for the Sick and Convales-
cent. H. V. S. Sachse 1.50

How to Feed Children. Hogan 1.00

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. Rorer .75

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer 1.00

I Go a Marketing. Sowle 1.75

Institution Recipes. Emma Smedley. . 3.00

Interior Decorations. Parsons 4.00

International Cook Book. Filippini 1.50

Key to Simple Cookery. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.25

King's Caroline Cook Book 1.50

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50

Kitchenette Cookery. Anna M. East. . . 1.25
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. Rose 1.10
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara-
tion of Meals 2.00

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary

C. Jones 1.00

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.50

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs.

Rorer 75

Marketing and Housework Manual.

S. Agnes Donham 1 75

Mrs. Allen's Cook Book. Ida C. Bailey

wAIle° 2.00

More Recipes for Fifty. Smith 1 50

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer 2.00

New Hostess of Today. Larned 1.50

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer l'oO

Address all Orders . THE BOSTON COOKING-

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice.

Isabels and Robb *:! 00

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1 00

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3*00

Old Time Recipes for Home Made

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50

Philadelphia Cook Book. Mrs. Rorer 1 50
Planning and Furnishing the House

Quinn ' j Q0

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson i.50

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs

Janet M. Hill 3 00

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 6 00
Practical Dietetics with Reference to

Diet in Disease. Patte 2 00

Practical Food Economy. Alice Gitchell

Kirk j 3_

Practical Points in Nursing. Emily A.

M. Stoney | ~ -

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking.

Allington ' j 50

Principles of Chemistry Applied to the

Household. Rowley and Farrell 1 25

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary

D. Chambers 2 00

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan 175
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances

Lowe Smith 2 50

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book ......... 2.50

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill i.go

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 75

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards..... .60

School Feeding. Bryant 1 50

Selection and Preparation of Food^

Brevier and Meter 75

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman.. 1.50
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.20
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food

Products. Bailey 1 qq

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn iso

Successful Canning. Powell 2.50

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick. . . L35

Table Service. Allen 1 35

Textiles. Woolman and McGowan 2 00

The Chinese Cook Book. Shin Wong

Chan j 50

The Housekeeper's Apple Book. L. G.
Mackay 1 00

The New Housekeeping. Christine Fred-
erick j 25

The Party Book. Fales and Xorthend . . 2.50

The Story of Textiles 3 00

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet
M. Hill 160

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J.
Richardson 2 00

Till the Doctor Comes and How to Help
Him 2.OO

True Food Values. Birge 75

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Sub-
stitutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade-
laide Keen 2 75

Women and Economics. Charlotte Per-
kins Stetson 2 50

SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, MaSs.

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247

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Double"
Sterling

The Range for Busy Women

Because it economizes kitchen time for both the woman who directs and the woman wh

does the actual work —

The simple range of proven merit that makes cooking so quick and pleasant that the kitche

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The range, backed by seventy years' experience in stove and range building, that err

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The

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Gas Oven Burners cannot be turn*

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The 49-inch Range that saves both food and fuel. Furnished as illustrated, or with close

base and high warming closet.

Polished top requires no blacking,
accommodates nine utensils at one
time. Broiler in top of gas oven
— can be placed any desired dis-
tance from burners.

These are four of the forty features which are fully describe
and illustrated in our handsome catalog, which we will glad!
send to any woman who desires to take trouble out of h<
kitchen.

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Established 1849

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Makers of Coal Ranges, Combination Ranges, and Warm Air Furnaces —
If you do not have gas connections write for catalog of ,the Sterling Range, The Ran
that bakes a barrel of flour with a single hod of coal.

Sterling Range

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

248

Planked Steak, Parisian

Season a three-pound sirloin steak with salt and
pepper, roll in oil and broil until almost done. Place
on plank with boiled onions and half a pound of fresh
mushrooms removed from brown sauce in which they
have been cooked. Dot the onions with beaten yolk
of eggs. Set plank in oven and bake the steak until
the onions are well browned. Cook potato balls about
three minutes; then spread and dry in the oven, season
with salt, butter, and chopped parsley and arrange
around edge of plank. Cut cooked carrots into small
cubes; mix with butter and peas and pour around steak.
At one end of the steak arrange a bunch of asparagus
tips, over which pour Hollandaise sauce. Pour brown
sauce over the mushrooms.

If desired, a border of mashed potato pressed through
a pastry bag and tube may be substituted for the
potato balls. The mashed potato should be browned
on the plank with the steak, onions, and mushrooms.

249

rnerican

Cook

ery

VOL. XXIV

NOVEMBER

No. 4

Chinese Cookery and Customs

By Jane Vos

WHEN Dr. Wu Ting Fang, former
Ambassador from China to the
United States, was leaving this
country, he was asked two questions, - —
one propounded by an American official,
the other by a newspaper man.

"Has China a national song?'' asked
the former.

"Yes," suavely returned the Chinese
dignitary; "the national song of my
country is that sung by its teakettles, and
our poets liken it to the 'echoes of a
cataract muffled by clouds, a distant
sea breaking on the rocks, a rainstorm
sweeping a bamboo forest, or the soughing
of the pines on a distant hill — ■'

"Will you ever return to America :':
crisply interrupted the newspaper man.

"Yes," smiled Dr. Wu Ting Fang,
"in fifty years. I am over sixty now,
but in my own country I live entirely on
meatless dishes, so I'm likely to live to a
ripe old age. The Great Lord Buddha
said that if you leave meat alone you
will live forever. All Buddhist priests
and nuns refrain from a meat dish.
Maybe I'll live forever, who knows — "
his voice trailed whimsically away to
the rumble of the car-wheels.

"I'll buy my wife a Chinese cook-
book this very day, and join the Live-
forever-Sons-of-Heaven," blithely chirped
the reporter.

"No, you won't," reassured his com-
panion, "for there are no cook-books
in China. All the recipes descend like
heirlooms of teakwood and jade from
one generation to another, — diamond
and pearl idea, you know."

It is true that Chinese cookery is

hoary with age, dating back to three
thousand years before Christ, the time of
the Emperor Pow Tay Si, who is given
the credit for i*s invention. It was the
great philosopher Confucius, however,
who taught the Chinese how to eat
scientifically, pointing out the fact that
the proportion of meat should not be
more than that of vegetables, and that
there ought to be a little ginger in one's
food. Moreover, Confucius would not
eat anything which was not chopped
fine, in order to facilitate mastication.
Today the Chinese people unconsciously
obey the same law, and it is this universal
custom that makes their food particu-
larly nourishing and palatable.

Long ago in the shadowy past the
Chinese used knives and forks, the same
as we do, but connoisseurs decided that
the metal impaired the flavor of their
foods, and some ingenious Chinaman
invented chopsticks.

There is a story told of a young bride,
which is proof of the magic of Chinese
cookery, as well as the esteem in which
Oriental bridegrooms hold the culinary
accomplishments of their wives. Ah Lit
was boasting of this fact to a friend,
when the latter, in a spirit of fun, asked
Ah Lit if he thought his wife would cook
anything he might take a notion to bring
her. The bridegroom promptly re-
sponded in the affirmative. A half-hour
later the Oriental visitor appeared with a
stalk of sugar-cane and a bustard. Yami
Kin thanked him profusely, and bowed
herself into the kitchen. Curious to
know what she would do, they followed
her.

251

252

AMERICAN COOKERY

She dressed the bustard, which is the
equivalent of our turkey, cooked it, then
diced it into small pieces. Meantime,
she scraped the cane, removing the out-
side rind, running the remaining portion
through a grinder. To the white of an
egg she added a little rice-flour, then
proceeded to mix this with the diced
bustard and the chopped sugar-cane.
Rolling the mixture into balls, she fried
the latter in peanut oil. When gar-
nished with parsley on a huge Chinese
platter, decorated with a blue dragon, she
bowed very low once more, and bade
them partake of her chef (Tceuvre.
They did so, and were astonished at its
palatability.

Owing to the fact that alleged humor-
ists have told so many unpleasant stories
regarding Chinese food, many people
believe that they live on rice, tea, and ani-
mals of questionable origin. According to
one of these chroniclers, an Englishman
was*the guest of a Mandarin in his home
in Canton. When the latter offered

a second helping of meat, the visitor,
whose curiosity was piqued to know
whether the chopped dish was fish, flesh,
or fowl, ejaculated, "Quack! Quack!"

"Bow-wow!" returned the Mandarin,
gravely bowing negatively his head.

Even though such stories bring a smile
they are harmful. Nevertheless, the
Orientals do not stand alone in their
regard for their culinary gift. We Ameri-
cans have long since recognized their skill,
and in many households, particularly on
the western coast, they are preferred as
chefs, owing to their thrift and precise
kitchen methods.

There is an old Chinese superstition
that on the twenty-third of the last moon,
a week before the New Year, Maon, the
Oriental Kitchen God, leaves the earth
to visit the King of Heaven. For days
before his departure, therefore, all sorts
of food dishes are set before his shrine,
especially sticky sweets, with a hope that
he will eat freely, and thus glue his mouth
together, so he will not be able to tell

AT MEAL-TIME

CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS

253

■

THE CHINESE TEA-O.TFIT

of anything but the good things that
happened in the kitchens of China.
No wonder the chefs are thrifty and
precise!

Having once acquired the taste for
Chow Mein, Chop-Suey, Shrimp, Lobster
or Crab-in-a-Golden Pond, or enjoyed
the luxury of Lotus-Seed-Broth, Tulip-
Bulb-Salad, and numberless other Chinese
dainties, one cannot help having a leaning
toward things Oriental, and grasps the
opportunity to visit Chinese restaurants
whenever occasion permits. To be sure,
they bring us a pot of tea the first thing
instead of the accustomed glass of iced
water, out of politeness to our queer
way of doing things; but over in China,
where they think the exact opposite
the right way, they commence their
dinner with sweets, nuts, salted pump-
kin, and sesamum seeds, finishing with
soup.

As to their tea, we pour cup after cup
into the little handleless receptacles,
forgetting even to miss cream and sugar,
so delicious is the beverage in the steam-
ing red-brown pot, bespattered with
Chinese hieroglyphs and a huge, trailing
blue-dragon.

What is the secret of " Char Yet Woo, "
(Tea) ? Just the right quantity of tea
leaves, Canton or Oolong, placed in
the hot earthenware pot, with just the
right amount of boiling water poured
over them and allowed to steep con-
siderably longer than ordinary tea. In
fact, three to five minutes, which means

bringing the infusion to a boil does not
impair the flavor. Afterwards the bev-
erage is strained into another hot pot.
Behold the magic of Chinese tea! But
how different our way of drinking.
Instead of drinking the beverage in
ceremonial silence, with merely a bow
to the lotus blossom on the screen or
wall before lifting the cup, tucking the
fan into the depths of capacious sleeves
in order to be ready to respond to the
invitation, "Fan Yourself!" after the tea
has been duly sipped and enjoyed, we
gulp it down in mouthfuls, like the prosaic
Occidentalists we are.

If a stolid Chinaman can be induced to
talk, he will tell you glibly of the wonderful
dishes made from unexpected and unusual
things, just as did the little Chinese
bride. He will go a step further and
demonstrate his art, with savory and
appetizing dishes concocted from un-
heard-of ingredients. What are some
of these? Chinese cabbage, green pep-
pers, fried noodles, water chestnuts
unskinned, water chestnuts skinned, fun-
gus, Chinese dried mushrooms, dried
oysters, dried fish, bean sprouts, dried
lily flower, birds' nests, Chinese gray
potatoes, bamboo sprouts cut in pieces,
Chinese onions, and even lily bulbs.

Chinese farmers over on Long Island,
and along the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts, have developed their vegetable
industry to such an extent, that Uncle
Sam has taken notice. In fact, they
are providing many of the foodstuffs

254

AMERICAN COOKERY

used in the big Oriental restaurants, thus
saving the expense of foreign shipment.
For a number of years now there has been
a large demand among Americans, for
instance, for Chinese Cabbage (Pak
Choi), which is preferred as a salad by
many of us to our native-grown lettuce,
owing to its crisp succulence.

In China there are many vegetables on
this order with which we are not familiar,
for which tourists soon acquire a great
taste. For this reason our agricultural
explorer, Mr. Frank Meyer of the United
States Bureau of Plant Industry, has
spent the past six years in China, in-
vestigating the possibility of introducing
more of these vegetables, plants, et cetera,
into the United States. Mr. Meyer
is enthusiastic in his praise of the Orien-
tals as farmers, and he believes that we
would be greatly the gainers in our
dietary, if we adopted more of their
nutritious vegetables. Among these he
mentions the edible bamboo shoots, which
he pronounces a crisp, freshly flavored
dish that has no rival. Foreigners in
the Orient become as partial to them as
Americans are to asparagus.

The varieties the Chinese are culti-
vating for their sprouts are generally
grown in gardens close to the house, and
they are heavily fertilized in order to
insure a maximum of sprouts and the
greatest tenderness of texture. As to

fruits, red haw takes the lead. It
resembles the crab-apple and is much
finer in flavor than the cranberry.

Rice, which is regarded as a staple
food, is a luxury, nevertheless, in the
northern part of China, where it is both
scarce and high. It is the staff of life -to
the Orientals, taking the place of bread,
butter, and potatoes. Occasionally rice-
bread appears among the more well-to-do,
in the form of small steamed loaves on
state occasions.

Mushy, wet, overdone rice is unknown
in China, as the natives are of course
past-masters in the art of cooking this
grain. Rice is never boiled over twenty
minutes, and it is never stirred, nor dis-
turbed while cooking. At the end of
twenty minutes it is set to dry on the
back of the range. This accounts for its
flakiness.

Meat substitutes are small ducks, birds,
bustards (turkeys), which are served with
a sauce of red haws, just as we use cran-
berries, chickens, and wild boar.

According to the science of Oriental
cookery, a Chinese dish consists of three
parts, — ■ a meat, secondary, vegetables,
such as water chestnuts, bamboo sprouts,
dried oysters, and the topmost layer, or
garnish, consisting of ham, chicken, or
pork cut in dice, or bars an inch long, and
enough parsley to flavor as well as to be
pleasing to the eye.

MUSHROOM CHOW MEIN

ALMOND CAKES

CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS

255

There are three methods of cooking, —
steaming, frying, and boiling. In the
first process, the Chinese cook drains off
all the water as soon as the food is soft,
adding just enough primary soup to cover
the ingredients. Before serving, the
primary soup is poured off, and the food
is put in the steamer again, where salt
is added to taste.

This primary soup, by the way, which
gives the superior flavor to all Chinese
dishes, is really the secret of the magic
in their cookery. It is used in gravies as
well as for the first cooking, instead of
water. To make, equal weights of chicken
and lean pork are required, — one-half
pound, each, to about six pints of water.
The meat is chopped fine and cooked
slowly for two hours and one-half, until
the liquid has evaporated. In order to
do away with the oil, the Chinese put
into the mixture a bowl of chicken broth,
straining through a thick cloth until the
liquid is clear, or the oil is on top, from
which it is skimmed. It is then kept
in a cool place.

Any one, wishing to serve a Sunday
night supper, or to entertain a la Chinese,
can easily duplicate at home most of the
famous restaurant dishes, as the in-
gredients may be obtained at Chinese
markets and groceries in any city where
there is a Chinese Quarter. Among
these ingredients are many dried foods,
as the Oriental people hunt their foods
in summer and store them away for
winter use the same as we. All the
foods exported to this country, therefore,
are examined by a physician, and his
certificate is pasted on the packages and
jars bound for overseas.

Instead of using butter or lard for
cooking, they substitute peanut, sesamum,
and chicken oils for frying foods, and
they always make use of a big iron or
steel frying pan. To make the peanut
oil, the nuts are skinned, then fried, turn-
ing repeatedly until they are yellow.
They are then placed in a grinder, —
a crude hollowed block of thick wood
with a hole in one end. There are smaller

CHOP-SUEY WITH BAMBOO SHOOTS

holes, through which the oil comes when
the peanuts are crushed by a stick of
wood in the larger hole.

Syou, sometimes spelled "Soyu." is the
Chinese Worcestershire sauce, greatly
esteemed for the flavor it lends to any
dish. Chow Mein and Chop-Suey are
practically flavorless without this piquant
sauce.

Through ignorance most Americans
shrink at the mere mention of Bird's
Xest Soup, yet this is the most expensive
food on the Oriental menu, and by far
the choicest tid-bit. Who of us feel a
repugnance for honey? Well, what is the
difference? The nests are made by a
sea-bird in southern China, — really a
Chinese Swallow, — from a delicate sea
moss, and the gelatinous substance or
saliva is much the same as the honey
bee's when it makes the comb. The
nest looks like spinach, and even those of
best quality contain some impurities,
such as straw and feathers; but these
are easily removed by shaking in water.

The birds build these nests in almost
inaccessible cliffs, where it is difficult for
even the most agile young Oriental to

CHINESE CABBAGE

256

AMERICAN COOKERY

To make, proceed

CHINESE MELONS

climb, and that is why they cost so much.
They are brought to this country dried,
and require a forty-eight-hour or so
soaking before they can be cooked. A
dollar to a dollar and a half is the price.

Noodles are served as part of several
dishes, such as Chow Mein. They may
be made at home, or purchased at a
noodle-factory ready for use. They are
always fried in peanut oil. Two quarts
of peanut oil will fry a half-pound of
noodles at once, and it requires only a
minute or two to fry them crisp and
golden brown. They are then set aside
to drain until ready to use. The Chinese
use blotting paper for draining them.

Chow Mein is fried noodles covered

with Chop-Suey.

as follows :

1 pound noodles

1 egg scrambled and cut into shreds

\ pound lean pork, shredded

\ cup celery, shredded

\ cup Chinese mushrooms, shredded

5 Chinese water chestnuts, sliced thin

\ cup bamboo sprouts, shredded

\ cup chicken stock

1 teaspoonful Chinese Soyu sauce

1 drop sesamum oil

1 teaspoonful cornstarch, dissolved

Into two quarts of peanut oil put one
pound of noodles; fry crisp and drain.
Fry one-half pound of lean pork, dice;
add the celery, water chestnuts, mush-
rooms, bamboo sprouts, soyu, sesamum
oil, and chicken stock, cooking all to-
gether for fifteen minutes. Add the
cornstarch to the stock last of all.

Chicken Chow Mein is perhaps the
most palatable of all. It is made as
follows :

2 eggs

1 quart peanut oi
\ pound noodles

4 ounces pork

2 pounds chopped
chicken

1 stalk celery
1 onion

\ pound breast chick-
en, shredded
3 hard-cooked eggs

1 tablespoonful soyu

Have the peanut oil boiling hot and
toss in the noodles. Fry until they are
crisp, then lift from oil and drain while
preparing the following:

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,;„•. :^.

aUm..

^fl

...■«—. ....:L. .\...-.-^

■

St!

- w^

A |§fl|

1 1 3k83i9IKS9hE£ ''••■••■ '■>'"-if.i^w';*^B

LYCHEE NUTS

PEANUT CANDY

CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY

257

Four ounces of fine-chopped pork and
one-half pound of chicken chopped, to
which add level tablespoonful of soyu.
one teaspoonful of salt, and cook ten
minutes. Lay the noodles on the platter,
forming a layer at the bottom of the dish.
Place the vegetables and gravy on top,
add a layer of the shredded chicken
breast, lastly, the hard-cooked eggs, crum-
bled, as a garnish. Serve very hot.

Chinese sweets are considered a neces-
sity by the Orientals. Among their
favorite are Almond Cakes. To make:

1 pound flour
% pound sugar
| pound lard

3 eggs

j teaspoonful alka-
line solution

Mix flour, sugar, lard, eggs, and solu-
tion well on board. Add a small quan-
tity of lard at a time until every particle
of flour contains an equal amount of
each substance. Mold into cakes the

desired size, placing in the center of each
an almond. Put into a suitable pan and
bake in the oven until brown. The
length of time depends on the tempera-
ture of oven.
Peanut candy:

5 pound sugar £ pound fried peanuts

Put one bowl of hot water in a hot,
oiled pan. To this add sugar, cook,
stirring constantly until no water is left.
Mix the peanuts with sugar on the board.
Roll while hot until one-half inch thick.
Let cool. Cut the desired size.

Pak Choi or Chinese cabbage salad —
"Oriental Romaine" it is designated
in some markets — is served, cut up
salad fashion, with a dressing made of
peanut oil, a few drops of soyu, a tea-
spoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, a
teaspoonful of sugar, a fine-minced bud of
garlic, and a shredded green pepper.

Concerning Cooks and Cookery

By David Harold Colcord

"Lend me, I pray you, the sauce pans
In which you boiled your bean?."

— Timocles.

HAVE observed," lectured the
judge to a certain crowded Chicago
police court, "that fully half of
these domestic quarrels that I hear,
spring full blown from some one's
breakfast table. A leathery piece of
ham once lodged in a man's interior is
responsible for more crime than all the
liquor that flows."

That judge was a regular judge! He
deserves to be immortalized. He merits
a place alongside of Epicurus or Charlie
Lamb. He knows life and what makes
it go, — three square meals a day. He
knows, and knows that he knows, that
upon the final, scientific flap that the
little wife at home gives the early morn-
ing cake, depends peace and the pursuit
of happiness.

Libraries have been dedicated to the
academic chase after the Antediluvian
Flea, and learned men of the professorial
stripe have laid down their lives on the
altar of Pure Science. These volumes
are available (under cover of dust).
From the standpoint of real, red-blooded
civilization, why is there no volume on a
vastly more vital subject, "The Evo-
lution of a Hard-Fried Egg"? The
History of Cookery is the history of
happiness. The cook stove and not the
hearth is the tie that has bound (and
unbound), since Mother Eve prepared
the first breakfast in the first suburban
home in the outskirts of the Garden of
Eden.

According to early Biblical accounts,
cooking to satisfy hunger was merely
incident to its more elaborate function
of religious observance. As a fine art,
little or no progress is recorded until

258

AMERICAN COOKERY

Belshazzar, capitalist and regal patron of
the Follies, saw the handwriting on the
wall. The incident marks, perhaps, the
early appearance of our modern tendency
to deal with effects rather than causes, — ■
tradition states that he consulted his
court physician, and little dreamed in
his pristine ignorance that varicose veins
and a leaky heart originate in the kitchen.

Contemporary savagery and barbarism
furnish one easy access to the methods
and practice that must have been popular
long before the days of soft-shell crabs
and fireless cookers. Our own American
Indians ground grain on slabs and cooked
it into form in seething pots of wood,
woven grass, stone, or clay. Even to-
day in the Southwest, the remaining
Indians use ollas or water jars, and
cooking pots of gourds and shells.
The question has always been "how to
get the fire to the food, and not how to
get the food to the fire." The Filipino
builds his fire between two huge stones.
A flat stone of considerable thickness is
placed over these and heated red hot.
Then the fire is pulled from under this
improvised stove and the cooking is done
by the retained heat. These dark-
skinned cooks are wiser than the Adminis-
tration ever has given them credit for.
Western civilization thought they had
discovered something unique when the
paper bag and fireless cooker was put on
the market a few years ago, but the so-
called Filipino hot-stone is identically
the same proposition, — minus the frills
of a kitchen, dining-room, and tea-
wagon. The same kitchen utensils are
today used in Mexico, South America,
and parts of Asia.

The Indian clay basket is interesting.
The basket was made of woven grass
lined with clay. The bottom was flat
and of molded clay into which sand had
been worked. Filled with corn, the
basket was kept in motion over the fire,
and thus our first corn-popper. Inter-
esting to me, because of all the good
things of this earth, which were not meant
for my particular digestive apparatus,

pop corn is the best and worst. A whiff
in my nostrils is most deadly in its seduc-
tive charms, — the whole pan must be
cleaned before I am again a free agent.

Notwithstanding the free publicity
given it, there is certainly great good in
the Return-to-Nature Movement. A re-
version to the kitchen practice of the
past, when food was so prepared that
men lived to the ripe old age of nine
hundred and ninety-nine, may, if en-
forced now, save some of us from being
relegated at the venerable age of forty
to the "unavailable." This kindly step
backward, and then upward, has lately
lost vogue because a few feminine zealots
found the ground too slippery and mis-
interpreted the movement. To wit: the
return to Mother Nature of a certain
clientele of a fashionable New England
finishing school. They lacked perspective
— one can't get far in a Boston suburb!

Let us continue in the Evolution of
Cooking Utensils, with an earnest en-
deavor to avoid harmless digressions.

Let us dismiss our contemporary exam-
ination with one more example. Let us
look at the cave-dweller who frequents
the modern four to six room flat. Make
directly to the kitchen and invite the lady
to step out so that one of us may step in.
Here we have an exact replica of the
place where our aboriginal, red-eyed
ancestors fought for air against the
sputtering, sizzling, smoking, incense-
breathing of a cook stove. From all I
can learn, the fittest survived only be-
cause the onion, the cabbage, soft coal,
and natural gas were not in the lists.
Now, honest, is it any wonder that you
can't get a table in a New York restau-
rant without buying the head-waiter a
new home? Folks will not stay home
under those conditions!

This is an age that runs to types.
There are two types of man: the
Hamlet type that is all thought and no
action; and the one that got the reverse
English, as, per example, Charles Chap-
lin, who acts but never thinks. There are
two types of women: the innocent,

CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY

259

blue-eyed, blue-ribboned, open-air type;
and the Vampire. We men prefer some
qualities of one or the other, — either of
Mary or Theda. The same principle is
universal. Cookery is subject to its
influence. Cooking throughout the ages
has followed two types. It has either
been incidental to the fire, or the fire
incidental to cooking. That is to say,
fire has been built and a portion of its
heat so directed that it was applied to
cooking food, while the remainder of the
heat was wasted. The log fire in the
Colonial fireplace is an example. The
practice of this type of cooking has grown
in direct dependence on the abundance of
fuel. It was cheaper and easier for the
New Englander to burn a whole log to
roast a sirloin, than to fashion a fire that
would only roast meat. The second type
is the direct opposite. The modern
electric range is an example par excel-
lence. With wood, coal, oil, and gas
almost prohibitive because of price, we
are approaching the method of the electric
range as the ideal. This type of cooking
lays down as a first principle the con-
servation and the direction of heat.

It is interesting to note that according
to Charles Lamb's "Dissertation on
Roast Pig," roast pork dates from the
conflagration of an entire Chinese village.
Incidentally several litters of pigs were
nicely broiled, and Bobo, a curious son,
happened to lick his fingers that were
smeared with burnt pig. News of the
deliciousness spread literally by wild-fire,
as hundreds of villages were burned in
order to have roast pig. This is a classic
example, indeed, of the wasteful type of
cooking referred to above.

Let us trace the progress of cookery
throughout the ages. In barbaric times,
according to history, no cooking was done,
and mankind lived on roots, fruits,
insects, and raw flesh. Personally I have
always wondered about the insects, —
their size, tastiness, etc. With the de-
velopment of agriculture, the sun and fire
were both used for cooking fish, flesh,
fruit, and berries were dried in the sun

and thus preserved. Trouble was ex-
perienced at the start in procuring vessels
that would hold fluid and resist heat.
Until one was found, skin bags were used
for boiling. Stones were heated and
dropped, one after another, into the bag
until the water attained a boiling-point.
Meat was suspended by cords from spits
and turned carefully as it roasted. Often
the meat was wound around green sticks
and thus suspended in the fire. The
Turk employs the same method today.
Later a gridiron made of bars of wood
was devised for meat. Hence our word
"grilling."

The following passage shows that the
Greeks understood the effect of heat and
water on food.

"Placing all my pans upon the fire, I
soaked the ashes well with oil, to raise
a rapid heat for broiling." ■ — Archedius.

The cook in Athens held the life and
honor of his master in his hands, so
common was poisoning by food; honors
and wealth were bestowed upon those
who had ability. Cooking stood high
among the professions, and the "chef"
occupied a prominent place in political
affairs.

Cooking became a "fine art" with the
Greeks only to propitiate the Gods or
celebrate a victory. As a rule, the
Greeks were frugal in their fare, and it
was not until their contact with the East
that profusion was introduced to their
banquets, but when it came, it set the
pace, for all subsequent ages, of gluttony.
Xerxes tells us that whole cities were
destroyed in order to provide for one
banquet. Plato boasted his teacher,
Socrates, as the only man sober enough to
walk after a quiet "club dinner." One
fact is significant to adepts of the quick
lunch, and that is that the Gods loved
fried meat.

The Romans were not only imitators,
but went the Greeks one better. A
report has come down to us that five
hundred nightingales' tongues were served
at one Roman feast. The leader of
Roman society held "first place" by

260

AMERICAN COOKERY

creating culinary surprises at his table,
and by serving rare dishes. It is not
presumptuous to assume that Antony
and Cleopatra were the first users of the
chafing-dish.

The Monks seem to be the only people
that dined on prepared food during the
Dark Ages, and it is said that in the ab-
sence of other-worldliness, they put
cookery on the map.

The Domesday Book in early Britain
contains an account of one Robert
Argyllon who received a manor for
serving a certain dish to William the
Conqueror on his coronation day.

Modern cooking, as a fine art, begins
with the visit of Catherine de' Medici to
Paris, where she taught the Court the
subtleties of the Italian kitchen. And
notwithstanding the fact that Napoleon
is said to have left a Parisian cook in
every country he invaded, Paris remains
today the mecca of Chefs and Cookery.
Among other things that we owe to
Catherine, is the discovery and distribu-
tion of "ices" for which Paris is famous.

Cookery made some strange bedfellows
in early France. Vatel, the great Conde's
cook, suicided because fish which he
ordered for a certain dinner did not
arrive. Mayonnaise is ascribed to the
famous Richelieu. James the First was
the most abused man in England because
he affected the French habit of using a
fork. Women adopted a tripartite pro-
fession known as "Physiche, Surgery,
and Cookery."

Let me refer for convenience again to
the two standard types or methods of
cookery which I will call "wasteful" and
"scientific." Naturally the first type came
(with New England's several million
Pilgrim ancestors) in the Mayflower, and
landed at Plymouth Rock. What a
relief it must have been to young Johnnie
Alden and his playmates to gaze upon
the primeval forest with its millions of
cords of fire- wood! At that early day
a tree containing enough lumber to build
a dozen modern rabbit hutches was worth
less than a modern match. Thus with

their open fireplaces, they burned down
our forests with the random of a Nero.
But they weren't posting any town or-
dinances to "Dump no Tin Cans Here."
Neither were they troubled in spirit
because of a tardy garbage man. Food
and utensils were scarce.

A benevolent Providence has preserved
this same type of cooking — with no
regard to fuel — for us today, for as
wood became scarce, we simply walked
out and discovered oil. coal, and natural
gas. Not so in Europe. Centuries ago
the cook learned to husband his fuel, and
not a stick more was, and is, used than
is necessary to heat the food. It was too
hard to get, and too costly.

Water for fuel is our next best bet, and
then, who knows, perhaps the sun, as in
days of old, will serve us. I will return
to that later.

When one stops to reckon that iron
was not cast in England until 1542, no
proof is necessary to establish the fact
that the early colonist brought few
utensils. Tinware was not manufactured
in this country until 1770. Colonial
kitchens and dining-rooms were equipped
largely with wood and pewter.

Cooking history would certainly be in
the making, if one of our Won't-Get-
Married-Unless-I-Can-L i v e-A s-Well-As-
Mother-Does American beauties, were
forced to keep house on the outfits listed
below. This colonial dame kept house in
1640 and used —

2 brasse skillets

1 pewter bottle

1 ladle

1 warming pan

1 candlestick

13 pewter spoons

1 mortar, all of brasse

! 1 stupan

1 brasse pot

3 bowles

7 pewter dishes

1 wooden cup

1 pewter bason

1 wooden platter

6 porringers

2 drinking horns

2 pewter candlesticks

1 little pott

1 frudishe

2 hogsheads

2 sasers

2 barrels

1 small tub

1 cowle

7 bigger pewter dishes 2 furkins

1 salt

2 pewter cupps

CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY

261

Some of these kettles weighed thirty or
forty pounds! Think of it, and yet the
I. W. W.'s preach today that the world
was misconceived, — when a man and
his wife can be getting that good old
snooze at seven A.M., while a clock and
thermostat automatically start the oat-
meal and pork chops in their electric
range. Oh, why should the spirit of
woman be proud!

When Priscilla got ready to entertain
her relatives for Christmas dinner, some
one had to get a new green lug-pole for the
fireplace. On this the utensils were
suspended over the open fire. Woe to
the day when the lug-pole charred and
broke, for then the whole dinner went
into the fire.

It was not until one hundred years
later that the first iron crane was used.
The Dutch oven did not come into use
until sometime after the revolutionary
days. The first stove, of the jam type,
was introduced by Sower in German-
town in 1730.

Benjamin Franklin invented the first
cooking stove in 1741. He advertised
that it would "consume its own smoke."
In spite of his hand-printed propaganda,
the ladies of Philadelphia, character-
istically, refused to accept a "contrivance
whose smoke injured their complexion. "
Benjamin Franklin and his methods of
advertising won, so it was that the stove
superseded the fireplace for cooking.

Following, by a process of adaptation to

fuels available, came the oil^ stove, coal
stove, and gas range. About 1910 the
crest of the wave of wastefulness was
reached, and the poor man began to
consider ways and means of fuel con-
servation. The "paper bag" was tried.
Its principle was splendid, — a step
forward, but its practice spoiled many
well-intended dinners. It occasionally
broke and spilled its contents. The
principle of cooking by retained heat was
again employed a little later in the fire-
less cooker. The fireless cooker deserves
, honorable mention, for it certainly has
some excellent qualities. I fear that
something is wrong with the merchandis-
ing methods of the manufacturer, for it
has not proved as popular as it should.

When one observes, as I did the other
day, a couple of newly-weds lolling down
the Avenue at 5.30 P.M. with apparently
no thought of the morrow, one begins to
wonder if the young lady's good grand-
mother is entirely at peace with the world
in the place where she has gone. One
can almost hear her say, "Well, times
have changed. I declare, when I was
your age, this time of day found me
gettin' the potatoes over for supper."

What I actually did hear, was,
"Charlie, dear, did you set the clock on
our new range for 6.00 o'clock?"

■Times have changed! Water churning
into giant turbine generators today is
creating Electricity — the fuel of to-
morrow.

Smile On!

I'm just a little ditty and not the least bit witty.
But listen, I've a secret up my sleeve.

If you're forever sighing

And all the world decrying, ,
Your friends will all excuse themselves and leave.

There is an old, old story, as old as Mother Morey,
That, if you give, the world gives back to you,
With interest fully double,
So why not take the trouble
To give the world a cheery smile or two!

Chorus

So make it your intention

With proper comprehension
To see the world from every point of view.

Smile on if you're defeated,

Or if you think you're cheated,
Smile on and soon the world will smile on you!

— Caroline L. Sumner.

Pies a la Weston

A THANKSGIVING STORY
By Alice Margaret Ashton

THE cloud was but the size of a emphatically, "what a lot his foolishness

sheet of note-paper. Yet it was cost him! Cheer up, little girl — you're

the first that had hovered above a corking cook. Remember what a

the charming white cottage. ' chance this is for both of us, and we'll

"I tell you, Agnes," exulted young land Uncle Robert, see if we don't!"

Robert Weston, happily unobservant of Left to herself, Agnes Weston sank

the cloud, and excitedly waving the back in a dejected little heap on the garden

offending note-paper by way of em- bench. She felt perfectly justified in the

phasis, " I tell you, if Uncle Robert takes tears which dripped over her flushed

an interest in us, we're made, little girl!" cheeks.

"I don't think I understand," admitted Justified, that is, until a gentle voice

Agnes Weston, "just what he intends — " very close behind her murmured en-

"Why, he's tired of wandering over treatingly: "My dear, my dear!"

the earth — no home, no intimate family "Oh," cried Agnes, sitting up very

connections. That's why he went into straight, "I did not mean to be so foolish!"

the war. But now that is over he is no "No more did I mean," pursued this

better off. smiling neighbor, "to hear through the

" So now he proposes to come here for a trellis what was not intended for my

month, and if he likes the prospect, put in ears."

his money and his influence with me and "I — I've never had a guest come and

just make things hum. Why, it will stay — -and he is so hard to please — and

mean success right from the start, instead he never accepts any dessert except pie.

of after years of struggle and grind." Think of that — pie! I've always

"But here I With us!" remonstrated shunned pie-making, and now to think

Agnes. "Your Uncle Robert, of all Bob's whole future may depend upon

people!" she added dolefully. my making them! Not just pies, but

"Uncle Bob is all right," insisted his real Weston pies — pies a la Weston, I

namesake, enthusiastically. "Why, what suppose I ought to say," she giggled a bit

did you think?" he added hastily at sight hysterically.

of his wife's face. "Course he wouldn't "But isn't it dreadful," she added

think of living with us indefinitely, contritely, "for me to be talking like

kitten! It's just for the month of his this?"

visit he will be here with us. Surely you "My intrusion may seem dreadful,

want to make him welcome?" too," pursued the gentle voice through

"You do not understand," pleaded the trellis, where a few brilliant leaves

Agnes, patiently. "Uncle Robert is the still fluttered gaudily. "But I couldn't

dread of every woman in the family — bear to see you worried without offering

even experienced housekeepers like your to help.

mother! Why, Bobbie, he quarreled "I was ' raised' in the pie-belt, myself,

with the sweetest girl in Roxberry, be- I've even heard of the Westons of Tribes

cause they disagreed over pies!" Hill. Suppose you come over and we

With a laugh young Robert Weston will map out our campaign."
lifted his athletic figure to its full height, That hour spent in pretty Miss Well-
drawing his wife up with him. "Then man's library greatly reassured Agnes
we'll show him," he boasted, kissing her Weston, — Miss Wellman, whom she had

262

PIES A LA WESTON

263

hitherto known merely as a rather formal
front-door neighbor.

The appearance of Uncle Robert a
week later was also reassuring. He had
young Robert's athletic build, with the
flat back of a soldier, blue eyes that
twinkled with a shrewd humor and an
obstinate set to his chin that reminded
Agnes of the old story about the sweetest
girl in Roxberry.

Young Robert was genuinely delighted
to do honor to his favorite uncle. Agnes
seconded him heartily. And Uncle
Robert, possessed of an honest desire to
approve of these young people, felt his
confidence increase with each course of
the first dinner he was privileged to eat
beneath their roof.

Dexterously Agnes cleared the table,
slipping the plates and platters snugly out
of sight on the lower tray of the tea-wagon.

Triumphantly she brought from the
serving table a beautiful pie in a beautiful
silver holder that sparkled emphatically
of wedding gifts.

"A pumpkin pie!" exclaimed Uncle
Robert, approvingly. " Pumpkin pie with
a ring of currant jelly, after the good old
Weston custom! How any one can con-
sider pumpkin pie complete without
currant jelly surpasses my comprehension.

"Don't cut it for a moment, my dear,"
he remonstrated as Agnes picked up the
heavy silver knife — also sparklingly
suggestive of rice and roses. "It has
been long since I have beheld so appe-
tizing a picture. The same beautiful
color! The same fluted crust! And, I'll
wager, made after the same old recipe,
my dear?" he finished delightedly.

Agnes flushed becomingly, whether
from pleasure or embarrassment.

"You can depend upon its being the
real thing," affirmed Robert, coming to
the rescue. "Though one must make
allowances for the fact that our modern
housekeeper lacks the freshly picked
pumpkins and the limitless cream and
stuff Great-great-grandmother Weston
doubtless commanded when she orig-
inated the recipe."

"Assuredly," agreed Uncle Robert,
genially. For he observed a tremor in
the hand wielding the pie-knife. And
already he felt a deep admiration, even
affection, for the charming young wielder!
"My dear," he added gallantly, after an
experimental taste of the golden wedge
on his plate, "in Great-great-grand-
mother's place I imagine you might have
excelled her. This is a treat, indeed, for a
homeless old wanderer."

"Push the plate over this way, Agnes,"
suggested Robert. "Uncle Bob and I
will enjoy helping ourselves as I remember
doing when a kid in the old buttery at
Tribes Hill."

"Well begun is half-done" is a true
maxim worthy of greater mention. No
doubt about it, that first dinner was a
great success.

Between the activities of setting the
dining-room in order and washing the
dishes in the little kitchen to the ac-
companiment of a contented rumble of
conversation from the living-room hearth,
Agnes carried the news across gardens to
the anxious neighbor conspirator.

" Perfectly gorgeous ! I feel like a cheat
to accept credit for a pie like that. Not
tomorrow, thank you — I certainly do not
wish to be guilty of ' riding a free horse to
death 'or of pampering a man to the extent
of giving him pie every day! Now I
must fly."

But she popped her flushed, laughing
face back into the kitchen to add: "But
you're a darling angel, just the same."

Confided Agnes to her husband on the
second night of Uncle Robert's visit:
"He is a regular pie-fiend. I know he
did not really consider my dinner a
success, though my pudding was de-
licious."

"Why not give him pie?" advised
Robert, indulgently. "We can stand it
for a month. Think of the limousine
you'll be driving when we get the business
really going."

Uncle Robert said little, but his
shrewd eyes missed no detail of the de-

264

AMERICAN COOKERY

licious apple pie that put in its appearance
at the end of the next dinner. At sight
of the crooked spray lhat sprawled
across its top like a sprig done in eyelet
embroidery, a satisfied smile lighted his
face. "I was raised on pie like this,"
he told Agnes, accepting a generous
second helping.

The days of Uncle Robert's visit passed
happily, except that Agnes' conscience,
usually of crystal clearness, troubled her
continuously. "I'll never be able to
pay that darling Anne Wellman — never
in this world! And it seems so despicable
to sail under the false colors of those
twenty-odd pies!"

For the pies were making an im-
pression; there could be no doubt about
it. More and more frequently did the
middle-aged Colonel pause before the
white cottage in a nifty roadster to
whisk his niece off for a ride through the
glorious sharpness of the November
afternoons. More and more often did he
draw her into the discussions before the
evening fire. All of which added not at
all to that discerning young person's
peace of mind.

But, conscience or no, she couldn't
suppress a pulse of pride as she success-
fully conveyed to the serving plates, one
evening, such a custard pie as beggars
description: flaky crust, baked just
right; golden filling, firm, tender, fading
into a creamy, crushy surface.

"My dear," observed Colonel Weston,
" I wish I had words to tell you what a pie
like this means to a man forced to eat
'wholesale pies' for twenty years."

"I suppose the most convincing com-
pliment to the cook is a hearty appetite,"
smiled young Robert, genially. "Help
yourself, Uncle Bob."

Agnes could not bring herself to utter
a word.

"It does put you in a sort of hole, I can
see that," Robert admitted to his wife
later that evening. "I'll tell you what,
dear; day after tomorrow is Thanks-
giving and the end of Uncle Robert's
visit. After he is gone, get that nice

Miss Anne to teach you all she knows
about pies, and when you have mastered
the whole business — which you can do,
never fear — make a clean breast of it
to Uncle Robert. He will admire your
spunk!"

"You think that|will be all right?"
faltered Agnes.

"Course it will be all right! Be a
sport, kid. You've done every other
last thing since he has been here except
build those pies, and I'm proud of you."

Agnes felt better next day. If she
had felt entirely easy about the pies, it
would have been such a joy to have
Uncle Robert with them. He seemed to
like them and their little white cottage
so much.

"Huckleberry pie!" he shouted joy-
ously, quite forgetting his manners and
making Agnes laugh at his boyish en-
thusiasm. "Tribes Hill used to be
covered with blueberries — Bob will re-
member. And no blueberry pie tastes so
good as the one with a 'cart-wheel' on its
upper lid. Did you use a paper funnel
in the middle to keep the juice from
boiling out, eh?'! he pursued, delighted
with his "inside" knowledge.

Agnes laughed gaily. "But I think it
looks like a sunburst," she observed.

"No doubt," Uncle Robert conceded
genially. "But cart-wheels were more
comprehensible to the youth of Tribes
Hill, my child."

After dinner before the glowing fire
Uncle Robert was unusually silent.

Out of this silence he spoke suddenly.
"Robert," he said, "I have decided to
stay here andfgo in with you, if you are
willing?"!

"Willing! I guess you know as well
as I do that it will be the making of me,
Uncle Robert," cried the young man,
gratefully.

"Well, well. If I can help a bit, I'm
glad. I like you children, I am willing to
admit. I like the way you conduct your
business and the way you live. And I
want to say that Agnes has done her
full share in bringing me to this decision."

PIES A LA WESTON

265

Breakfast was late at the white cottage
next morning. The men had sat long
over their plans the night before. And
for some reason sleep and Agnes seemed
to be total strangers.

As she watched Uncle Robert that
morning and remembered all he was
doing for them, food choked her. She
couldn't "cheat" him that way- — she
had to make a clean breast of it now .

"Uncle Robert," she cried, "I have
not played fair. I'm not what you think
I am at all! I never made those pies
you liked so much — not one of them."

"You didn't make them?" The blank
astonishment on the Colonel's face grad-
ually gave place to shrewd speculation.
"Who did, then, may I ask?" he inquired.

"My next-door neighbor," whispered
Agnes, miserably.

"She came in and caught Agnes crying
and found out you were unusually fond
of pies and that Agnes wasn't much
used to company, you see," explained
young Robert, gallantly jumping into the
breach.

"And when Miss Wellman offered to
make pies during your stay we didn't see
anything wrong in it, you see. We
didn't consider how it^ would be sailing
under false colors — "

Robert's floundering explanation came
to an abrupt end. Their guest, with a
muttered word, had left the table — the
room — the house!

In her sunny kitchen next door Miss
Anne Wellman had an early start with
her Thanksgiving pies. A cheery fire
snapped in the bright stove. Stray little
curls peeped from beneath her crisp
white cap. And as she rolled pastry and
fitted it in the tins her thoughts drifted
across to those two nice children next
door and to their exacting guest, now
soon to depart.

These thoughts lent an indignant color
to her cheeks and emphasis to the thumps
of her rolling-pin.

"I've as good a notion as I ever had
in my life to mark every one of these

mince pies with a cart-wheel," she
murmured aloud vindictively.

"Why don't you?" genially suggested
a voice behind her.

In the doorway stood a tall, athletic
man with the straight back of a soldier,
twinkling blue eyes darkened now with
some deeper feeling, and a chin that could
look firm.

"Anne," he said, closing the door and
coming quickly across the sunny space,
"I've always known I was a fool and in
the wrong, but my pride would never let
me own it. If there is anything on this
footstool more set than a Weston^ of
Tribes Hill, it is—"; '

"A Wellman of Roxberry," finished
Miss Anne, smiling faintly. "I've been
making pies the Weston way all these
years, just^to punish myself," she ad-
mitted.

"Who gives a hang about pies?': ex-
claimed the man, putting his arms close
round her. "You are all that matters,
Anne! Anne!"

For a space the kitchen was filled with
silence — a happy, wonderful silence.
"Will you let it be tomorrow, Anne?"
he begged earnestly. "A real Thanks-
giving, dearest!"

Then a scurry of feet soundedjDutside
and the door burst open.

"Oh, I've 'fessed up, Miss Anne—"
Agnes Weston's words stopped as if the
current had been snapped off.

"Aunt Anne, you mean," corrected
Colonel Weston, serenely. " Come here,
child, and kiss your aunt and uncle."

Louder footsteps rang without.
"Agnes?" called young Robert, anxiously.

"Come in, Partner," the Colonel in-
vited cordially. "We were just planning
a joint Thanksgiving dinner. If you
children think you'll have turkey enough
to go round, we're planning on plenty
of pies for the crowd!" He ended with a
chuckle, his arm still about the flushed
and very pretty pie-maker.

The eyes of Anne and Agnes met.
"A la W7eston," they murmured in
unison.

Lessons in Food and Cookery,
with Simple Appliances

The Potato
By Anna Barrows

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University

THE potato is less ornamental
than the apple, but is suffi-
ciently important to deserve a
lesson all by itself in any school studying
foods.

The French name, pomme de terre,
apple of the earth, is a recognition of its
good qualities. Yet people used and
cultivated the apple in the old world
long before they knew anything about
potatoes, for the potato is a native of
America.

How can we arouse country children
to real live interest in the potato, a
perfectly familiar object, but associated
with hard work in field and kitchen, and
so common a food that it arouses no
anticipation for a feast to come?

Let the children look up the names of
this earth-apple in other languages, and
find all they can about it in encyclo-
pedias or history, as a beginning.

Spain appears to have been the first
part of the old world to use potatoes,
but those are supposed to have been the
sweet potato. About 1588-9 white po-
tatoes were introduced into Belgium and
Holland, perhaps through Italy from
Spain. Later they were introduced to

statue was erected to his memory in a
suburb of Paris, where he showed his
countrymen that they might grow pota-
toes.

During the wars of the eighteenth
century he was the chief health officer of
the French army. Several times he was
captured, and thus he noticed that
potatoes were cultivated in Germany and
learned their value and how to raise
them.

In 1771 the Institute of France
awarded a prize to Parmentier's essay
on the value of the potato. He also
wrote a book, "The Complete Baker,"
telling how to use potato flour in bread-
making, combined with rye or other
grains. Louis XVI wore the potato
blossom on one occasion and bade his
courtiers eat potatoes. After that the
despised plant grew popular.

Now when we see a soup with Par-
mentier's name we may readily guess it
to be made of potato.

A historian has thus recorded an
American incident in which the sweet
potato plays a part:

"Gen. Marion was stationed on
Show Island, South Carolina, when a

Great Britain and Ireland, possibly by young officer of the British army visited

wreck of a vessel. Several of the early
navigators, like Sir John Hawkins, about
1563; Sir Francis Drake, 1573; Sir
Walter Raleigh, 1586, appear to have
had a share in bringing potatoes to Great
Britain.

At Offenburg, Baden, a statue of Sir
Francis Drake was erected, inscribed
"To the Immortal Introducer of the
Potato in Europe."

In 1914 the centenary of the death of
Antoine Parmentier was observed, and a

him to treat respecting prisoners. He
was led blindfolded to the camp of
Marion. There he first saw the dimin-
utive form of the great partisan leader,
and around him, in groups, were his
followers, lounging beneath magnificent
trees draped with moss. When their
business was concluded, Marion invited
the young Briton to dine with him. He
remained, and to his utter astonishment
he saw some roasted potatoes brought
forward on a piece of bark, of which the

266

THE POTATO

267

general partook freely, and invited his
guest to do the same. 'Surely, general,'
said the officer, 'this cannot be your
ordinary fare?' 'Indeed, it is,' replied
Marion, 'and we are fortunate on this
occasion, entertaining company, to have

I more than our usual allowance.' It is
related that the young officer gave up
his commission on his return, declaring
that such a people could not, and ought
not, to be subdued."

The relatives of the potato also might
have a place in this lesson. Some pupils
may have noticed the similarity of the
leaves and blossoms of the potato and
those of the tomato. There is a marked

J difference, however, between the green
potato balls and the big attractive
tomatoes. Surely a plant bearing such
fine fruit may be excused, if it does not
produce more food under ground, as the
potato does. The eggplant is another
relative.

This, also, would be a suitable time to
tell about canning clubs, if they have not
been introduced in the vicinity, and
several Farmers' Bulletins give much
interesting data about them.

The method of cultivating the potato,
perhaps, is too old a story to demand
much attention at this time, but the
figures of local record crops per acre may
be put on the blackboard and the ap-
proximate amount used in the country,
and anything that will emphasize the im-
portance of the crops.

Facts of this sort and much more of
interest will be found in Farmers' Bulle-
tin No. 295, "Potatoes and Other Root
Crops as Food," by C. F. Langworthy.

Any school ready to give time to some
study of foods is justified in asking for
these helpful bulletins from the con-
gressman of the district. Sometimes
several copies of each number may be
secured, and used for supplementary
reading lessons.

Baked potatoes are possible with little
more in the way of utensils than the
usual country schoolhouse affords. Each
pupil can provide one or two potatoes,

and here, as with the apples, is an op-
portunity for an observation lesson, the
correct naming of varieties, the selec-
tion of those most desirable for food, and
the sorting for different methods of
cooking.

Thus the most perfect ones of medium
size for baking, the largest ones for
steaming, the imperfect to be pared be-
fore cooking, etc., etc.

The pocket knives of the boys will
serve to trim and scrape those potatoes
that need it, and the school water supply
is ample to remove the earth.

A wood heater in the schoolroom,
probably, will afford some opportunity
to bake part of the potatoes in the ashes.
By frequent turning the same result may
be reached on top of the stove. More
even cooking will be secured, if it is
possible to have an asbestos mat on top
of the stove on which to put the potatoes
and then cover them with a worn-out
tin pan, too far gone to be harmed by
such treatment. Sometimes a few nails
or pieces of wire under the potatoes will
serve to raise them from the hot surface
of the stove enough to prevent burning,
if an asbestos mat is not available.
Part white and part sweet potatoes may
be used. Meantime there may be a dis-
cussion of over baking; best position in
the oven; how long time required; how
to know when the potato is done; how
to keep it in good condition if cooked too
soon; what to eat with it and why.

A grater may be used to show some-
thing of the composition of the potato.
A pared potato should be grated into a
piece of cheesecloth a foot square,
spread over a deep saucer. Gather the
corners of the cloth together and press
out the watery juice. This may be
turned into a tumbler, and shortly a line
of white, solid material will settle.
Note the proportion of water, two-
thirds to three-fourths of the bulk of
the potato in all, since more water re-
mains in the cloth and its contents.

Next water may be added to wash more
of the white substance out of the grated

268

AMERICAN COOKERY

potato, and this may be combined with
that which was in the juice. While all
is settling, notice the fibrous particles in
which the grater divided the potato.
It is this substance that will be softened
or separated by cooking, and thus made
more palatable and digestible.

Next pour off all water and mix the
mass of white material with hot water in a
dipper or saucepan, and let it cook on the
stove a minute or two until it thickens.

Who can tell, from its resemblance to
anything seen at home, what this may be?
Some one will recognize starch. If it is
possible to have several pupils extract
starch, part of it may be dried. Note the
white powder left on knives, etc., as
water evaporates after cutting potatoes.

Meantime some slices of potato should
be examined, holding between the eye
and the light, to show the difference in
texture in different parts of the potato.

Cut potatoes or slices may be exposed
to the air to show discoloration. A few
potatoes may be left to sprout; weigh
them first, and again after the sprouts are
removed.

If it is desired to serve a hot potato
luncheon more than one day, the baked
potatoes may come one day, and a
potato stew or chowder at another time.

Potato Chowder

Pare potatoes, cut in thick slices or
half-inch cubes. Cover with cold water,
while getting other things ready. Cut a
piece of fat salt pork in thin slices and
cook crisp in the bottom of a kettle,
then take out the pork, leaving the clear
fat Into this slice some onion, put the
potato on top, and barely cover with
water. When the potatoes are nearly
soft, in ten to fifteen minutes, add the
same measure of good milk as of the
potatoes. Let this get hot and season
with salt, pepper and butter, and serve at
once with crackers.

No definite quantities are given for
this dish, purposely. Let the young cooks
make their own recipe, learn" to use what
they have, and "season to taste." Then,

afterward, a recipe based on experience
may be written on the blackboard, and
variation suggested. Other vegetables,
like parsnips or sweet corn, could be used
in the same way.

Baked Potatoes

Choose smooth, medium-sized potatoes,
scrub well, bake in a hot oven thirty to
forty-five minutes. When soft, crack the
skin to let out part of the steam, and
serve as soon as possible.

Stuffed Potatoes

Bake, cut off the ends, scoop out inside,
mash, season highly, moisten with cream,
fill the skins again, put back in the oven
five minutes. Grated cheese or chopped
meat or beaten egg may be added to the
hot mashed potato before filling the
skins.

Potato Canoes

When the potatoes are cut lengthwise,
before stuffing, they may be made to look
like little boats or canoes.

For Boiling

Wash and pare, if not perfect or if old.
To prevent discoloring, cover with cold
water until time to boil them. Then
cover with boiling water, add salt, cook
till soft twenty to thirty minutes, drain,
and shake to let the steam escape, serve.

Mashed Potatoes

Put through the ricer, or mash in a hot
pan. To each pint of potatoes add one
tablespoonful of butter, a little salt, a
speck of pepper, and from one-fourth to
one-half cup of hot milk.

Potato Salad

One pint of hot potato cut in cubes or
slices, mix with about one-half cup of salad
dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves, garnish
with beet pickles or hard-boiled eggs.
Serve cold.

Almost any other vegetable may be used
in much the same way^for soups, salads,
croquettes, etc.

The Story of Coffee

By Carl Holliday

Dean of Toledo University

OW that alcoholic drinks are But these wise guardians of the faith

under the ban, doubtless Ameri- struck a snag. The Sultan of Egypt had

cans will consume more coffee
than ever before, and there may even be
a revival of the old-time coffee-houses.
Three hundred and sixty-five years ago,
this autumn, the first coffee-house in the

become a "coffee-fiend," and when he
called together another council of theo-
logians, these gentlemen knew exactly
what to do. They recommended coffee
as a gift from Allah. And the people

world was opened at Constantinople, gladly accepted Allah's gift; everybody

and two hundred and seventy years
ago the first English coffee-house sent
forth its aroma at Oxford. And yet,
in the brief space of three centuries,
how the coffee-drinking habit has spread!
The whole world drinks it now —
enormous quantities of it. The year
before the Great War, Germany, sup-

wanted a cup. Thus it happened that
some enterprising Turk opened the world's
first coffee-house in Constantinople in
the fall of 1554.

Evidently, however, these resorts be-
came entirely too popular, for the riff-
raff of the town as well as the Four
Hundred congregated in them, and loud

posedly a land devoted to beer, drank, was the cry of the Mohammedan church-
as merely an extra beverage, 412,000,000 men against the places. Late in the
pounds of coffee; while France, which sixteenth century the theologians once
every American soldier knows is the more demanded the extermination of the
home of vin rouge, consumed in the coal- beverage, because the Koran condemned
black form that a Frenchman loves, over the use of "coal"! This proves that the
220,000,000 pounds. But the United Turks took theirs black. The Mufti
States surpassed them all, as usual, by of Constantinople saw the logic of the
gulping down, in true American fashion, theologians' argument, and closed every

nearly 990,000,000 pounds.

For, at least, a half-century, however,
the habit had a struggle for existence.
It seems that the custom of using the
beverage had its origin in Abyssinia.
About 1500 a Mufti of Aden, named
Gemaledie, requested those fanatic
churchmen of the East, the dervishes, to
drink it in order that they might not
relax in the long and weird ceremonies of
their faith. The dervishes took to it like
a cat to cream, and recommended the
concoction so heartily and widely that,
within a decade, the habit had spread to
Mecca and Cairo. In fact, it grew so
dangerously popular that in 1511 an
assembly of Mohammedan theologians
■condemned it on the ground that it led

shop and hotel dispensing coffee.

What happened ? The Mufti promptly
lost his job, and his successor declared
that coffee, if not roasted black, was
certainly not coal, and, therefore, the
drinking of coffee made from good brown
berries was not contrary to the Koran.
It reminds one of the modern argument
as to whether "2.75 per cent" beer is
beer and, therefore, illegal.

Up the coast of Europe the rich odor
of the coffee-pot crept, and the English
sniffed it from afar and with relish. It
was being served in London inns in
Shakespeare's time, not in cups, but in
shallow bowls; so that one long asked for
a "dish" of coffee. Evidently the stu-
dents at Oxford University needed some-

to intoxication, and was, there'fore, con- thing to stimulate them in their studies;
trary to the Koran. Concluded on page 302

269

270

AMERICAN COOKERY

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AMERICAN COOKERY, published monthly
except July and September, at Boston, Mass.,
for October 1, 1919.

Publishers:

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Sworn to and subscribed before me this 29th day of Septem-
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Our Prayer

Lord God above, we offer thanks to thee

On this Thanksgiving Day for all the glad,

Good things of life! If some are sad —

Bless them, we pray, unstintingly.

Protect us by thy might and make us see

The Beacon Light of RIGHT at all times. Add

Thou consistency and judgment clad

With kindliness to all; this is our plea!

Our hearts in unison are joined today

In singing hymns of joyousness and praise

That, 'neath the sky of turbulent dismay.

Thy spirit struggles on through all the maze

And bids us stem the tide. Bids us obey

The dictates of our conscience constantly!

— Caroline L. Sumner.

AMERICAN COOKERY

IF housekeepers did but know it, they
want American Cookery in their
homes. It is the most interesting, the
most reliable and helpful publication of
its kind in print. It appeals directly to
teachers, pupils of domestic science, and
housekeepers, and to no one else. It has
nothing to do with millinery, lingerie, or
fashions, but deals exclusively with
cookery and household economics. Its
advertising pages are in perfect keeping
and harmony with its text. Every page
of this publication bears something on it
of interest to housekeepers.

The October number was regarded as
exceptionally fine. This November num-
ber is better, and the December number
will be better still. In these times, do not
overlook the significance and importance
of American Cookery in the home; it
is a friend, indeed, in time of need.

OUR PRINCIPLES

AMERICAN COOKERY stands for
law, order, and justice first, last,
and always. We say this because so
many people, it seems, are manifestly
not standing up boldly for law, order, and
justice at all. Even our public press
seems waiting to catch the popular cur-
rent, in the course of events. If ever
•there was a time when strikes were out of
order, it is the present. What do the
strikers of today want? The organizers
and leaders of strikes are advocating the
breaking of contracts, the violation of
law, and the subversion of all government.
Who is paying these professional organiz-
ers for their malicious and seditious
efforts? If our laws are unfair or unjust,,
why do not the people see to it, through
their chosen representatives in legislative-
halls, that laws be enacted that are just
and fair? We have a constitution to
which we have sworn allegiance; but
who is paying any heed to the constitu-
tion in these days? WTe believe in the
maintenance of our laws as they now
stand on the statute books and in chang-

EDITORIALS

271

ing the old order for a new only after
mature thought and deliberation. Haste
makes waste in more than one line of
action.

A POINT OF VIEW

TO reduce the cost of living, the sine
qua non to everybody's happiness,
we began wrong. We began by granting
an increase in wages to labor, the most
unwise, imprudent step that possibly
could have been taken.

Obviously, in order to pay even inter-
est on our indebtedness and other
expenses, and at the same time resume
anything like normal conditions of living,
every man, woman, and child in the
United States must sacrifice something,
somehow. Who shall be exempt? As
a beginning, in every occupation and
industry a reduction in price of labor
should be made from top to bottom of the
list. The tax gatherers are looking
pretty well after the top already. Right
here, i. e., at the point of wages, must the
reform begin. To advocate a rise in
price of anything, anywhere, at this time,
should be regarded as criminal.

"First of all the American people should
stop, look, and lessen its extravagance."

GERMAN LABOR'S TEN-HOUR DAY

FROM German workmen comes the
demand for a longer day. Elsewhere
in the world labor shortens the hours of
toil and cripples production by strikes.
Not unanimous is the cry in Germany for
more labor and consequently more pro-
duction, but the demand is backed by
numbers large enough to give it real
significance. German toilers are begin-
ning to see that the way to prosperity
lies along the hard path of serious work,
that not more leisure but more labor is
the world's great need. The world at
large may well consider this token of the
German workman's grip upon the present
critical situation. Certainly the nation
that first resumes hard and patient
productive toil will gain a position of
vast advantage in the coming struggle

for trade and the prosperity that trade
brings. — The Boston Herald.

Certainly the German is shrewd; he
has been, also, well trained and dis-
ciplined. It is said the Germans know
how to strike orderly. They destrov
neither their own property nor that of
others. We must look well to our ways
or the Germans will come out of the late
world-conflict right where they entered
into it — ■ leaders in industrial and com-
mercial enterprises.

FALLACIES

"► I ^HE world owes me a living." No

A greater fallacy than this can be
entertained. The world owes no man a
living unless he has earned it and deserves
it. In a sense, Nature is kind to man,
but her laws are infallible and inexorable.
Far truer than the foregoing sentiment
is the old saying, "God helps him who
helps himself." The only way out of the
present condition of affairs is for people
everywhere to settle down to steady
occupation in every kind of productive
industry.

"People who continue to believe that
there is a bag of gold at the end of the
rainbow are largely responsible for
industrial and social unrest in America
and other countries," Secretary Lane
declares.

"These folks won't take the word of
experienced men all down the road of
history that there is no magical way to
happiness. Work alone finds the way.
Work is the salvation materially, and
spiritually.

"Our war morale has not been main-
tained. We have not the unity of pur-
pose that prevailed then. We lack a
common purpose, we Americans, though
we are just as loyal, just as idealistic.

"We can adopt an aggressive, con-
structive program for America. Let us
all work to make this country a better
place in which to live, not by selfish
enterprise, but by co-operation. That
is our ideal. Let us live up to it."

272

AMERICAN COOKERY

"KEEP ON KEEPING ON"

A CERTAIN old state-of-Maine man,
who used to be a deep-water sailor,
but is now snug as the caretaker of a
Boston property, is much prized by the
manager of the establishment because of
his sage remarks. Not long since, con-
ditions forced the manager to curtail
activities, but he kept his concern going.
Thereupon the old sailor man slyly said:
"I see, sir; you're jest givin' 'er steerage
way. There's no headin' of 'er elsewise.
She'd jest drift the devil's own way, if
you didn't keep on keepin' on."

This quaint philosophy is worthy of
public inscription. For men, as for
vessels, drifting is the sure result if one
does not "keep on keeping on," even
when conditions are such that it is not
possible to make much headway. And
drifting, as the veteran seaman well
knew, is the way to danger sooner or
later. What business man of experience
doesn't understand this?

Many a man and woman has occasion
in the present strained conditions of
common life to feel like giving up at times.
Business men are often near their wit's
end because of the rampant uncertainties
encountered in purchase and sale and
employed service. Home-making women
are vexed and well-nigh baffled by the
cost of necessary supplies, worn out by
the scarcity of household help and the
almost prohibitive wages demanded, ex-
asperated by the incompetence or high-
headedness of the help they obtain.
Salaried people, with everything going
up but their earnings, often feel as if they
faced a blank wall which needs no let-
tered "Stop" to interpret its meaning
for them. Perplexity, disheartenment,
weakening of purpose and effort, despair-
ing action of one sort or another — ■ these
are the steps of descent to the inferno of
giving up, which not a few are tempted to
tread, in days like these.

To rally yourself against the folly of
yielding, make "keep on keeping on"
your instant and constant watchword.

That simplifies and makes distinct the
first essential for being ready to seize the
chance in any turn for the better when it
comes — and it will come sooner or later.
Next, banish bitterness; keep sweet;
spurn self-pity. How? An eminent
public man tells this story. A poor and
hard-pressed woman, known to him,
happened to get hold of a certain famous
book and said of it: "I read that book,
and I saw there was something going on
of which I was a little part, and it has
taken all the kick out of me."

Protest and resistance have their
rightful place, of course, when things are
going wrong. But the kicking mood is
hard on one's vitality. Settled embitter-
ing is like short-circuiting — it may make
quite a show of energy, but will soon run
down the battery and leave the motor
"dead." To see somehow that there is
something going on that is larger than
yourself or your immediate advantage —
as there is undoubtedly, in the present
turmoil of everyday affairs — to realize
that you are but sharing what almost
everybody is undergoing, to feel that
you may be a part of "the host that heeds
not hurt nor scar" which will win out in
the present struggle — ■ this will go far
toward "taking the kick out of you,"
and sparing you much waste of your
powers.

"The world is wide,
Both time and tide,
And God is guide —

Then do not hurry.
That man is blest,
Who does his best,
And leaves the rest —
Then do not worry."
— The Religious Editor in Boston Herald-

To save money by going without neces-
sities is bad economy, but to waste any-
thing lessens your wealth, the wealth
of your country, and the wealth of the
world.

Thrift is steady earning, wise spend-
ing, sane saving, careful investing, and
the avoidance of all waste.

^mv^

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TURKEY READY FOR THE OVEN

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Roasting Poultry and Birds

WHEN poultry, birds, etc., have
been cleaned and trussed ready
for cooking, cover the breast
with thin slices of salt pork, or bacon,
scored lightly; fasten these in place with
skewers or strings and set on a rack in a
baking pan, a little larger than the object.
The rack should be smaller than the
pan, to admit of free use of a spoon in
basting. The "heat indicator" should
point to the center of the dial. If neces-
sary to avoid burning, let the pan rest on
a grate. Turn the object often that it
may be seared over uniformly. It will
take' from fifteen to thirty minutes to
sear over a turkey, and other objects ac-
cordingly. When this is accomplished,
close damper, add a little hot water and
dripping to the pan, and reduce the
temperature as soon as possible to that

of ordinary baking. Baste every ten
minutes, dredging with flour after each
basting. When the joints separate easily,
the cooking is completed. (It will take
three hours to roast a ten-pound turkey.)
Just before this condition is reached,
remove the pork from the breast, baste
with a little butter melted in hot water,
and return to the oven for the final
browning; baste several times, or until
the desired color is attained. For best
results, use no hot water, in basting;
use fat only.

Bread Stuffing for Chickens and
Turkeys

2 cups soft bread

crumbs
\ cup butter, melted
\ teaspoonful salt
\ teaspoonful pepper

Mix the ingredients together thor-
oughly. The bread should be twenty-

\ teaspoonful pow-
dered sweet herbs or
spiced poultry sea-
soning

1 beaten egg

273

274

AMERICAN COOKERY

four hours old and taken from the center
of the loaf. Exact quantities of season-
ing are given, but this is a matter of
individual taste. At least twice the
amount of ingredients given in the recipe
will be needed for a nine or ten pound
turkey. The egg may be omitted, if the
dressing is to be eaten hot; a cold dressing
will slice better, if the egg be used.
Cracker crumbs give a drier stuffing.

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin

Select medium-sized tenderloins. Wipe
with a soft cloth dipped in weak salt and
water. Split the meat lengthwise, mak-
ing a slight incision wTith a sharp knife,

a moderate oven about three-quarters of
an hoar. If the family is larger, make
the layers of whole tenderloins, split as
directed. It is very convenient to pare
potatoes and split lengthwise, placing
them in the pan with the meat.

Pork Tenderloin, French Style

Wipe the tenderloin carefully, and,
with a sharp knife, cut into slices about
an inch thick across the tenderloin.
Shape the thin pointed ends into rounds,
also. Pound each slice lightly to flatten
it. Season with salt and pepper and
roll well in flour. Have readv lard or
other fat, and when just ready to smoke,

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH ONIONS

and then pulling the muscle apart until
almost split in two. If the family is a
small one, cut the split tenderloin straight
across the center and place one-half, split
side up, on a buttered baking tin.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cover
with several layers of onion sliced thin.
Season the onion and cover with cracker,
broken into rather fine pieces. On top of
this place the second piece of tenderloin.
Season as before, and cover with a thick
layer of onion. Season and cover with
cracker crumbs, using a little more than
before. Drop water very carefully on
this layer in order to moisten the crumbs
thoroughly without displacing them.
Drop a few pieces of butter on top and
pour a cup of water in the pan. Bake in

drop in the meat. Turn it almost at
once in order to form a slight crust on
both sides. Lower the temperature and
continue cooking slowly twenty minutes.
Pour off the fat, except about two table-
spoonfuls, and drop into the pan three
tablespoonfuls of flour with a pinch of
salt. Lift the meat to a hot dish and
stir the flour and fat well. As soon as the
flour is a golden brown, add milk and
stir vigorously to keep the gravy smooth.
Keep adding milk until the gravy is a
trifle thin. Cook till reduced enough and
then pour around the meat.

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Split the tenderloin as directed for
Scalloped Tenderloin. Make a dressing

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

275

MACARONI-AND-CHICKEN PUDDING

of dry bread, chopped rather fine, and
seasoned with salt, pepper and other
seasoning liked. A tiny pinch of mar-
jorum and summer savory with a few
drops of onion juice, will give zest to the
dressing. Pour water on the bread very
carefully, in order to moisten it very
slightly. The juice of the meat will
make the dressing just right, if it is not
made wet with the water. Some cooks
pour water on the bread and then squeeze
it as dry as possible, but even this may
make the bread too wet. Spread the
dressing on the split side of the meat,
remembering that it swells in cooking.
Arrange it in even thickness the entire
length. Place a second tenderloin, split
side down, directly over the dressing.
Sew the edges together with coarse
thread. Place in a buttered pan with a
cup of warm water and bake in a moder-

ate oven about three-quarters of an hour,
lowering the heat after the first twenty
minutes. Put a few bits of butter in
the pan, also salt and pepper and baste
frequently. If only one tenderloin be
used, fold the split edges together and
fasten.

Broiled Pork Tenderloin

Split the tenderloin in two and broil
under a flame that is hot at first to sear
the surface and preserve the juice. Re-
duce the heat and when the meat is quite
puffed, and nicely browned, remove to a
hot dish, season with pepper and salt and
bits of butter. All pork should be well
done, but too long cooking is almost as
bad as undercooking, for it dries the meat
and destroys its delicate flavor. After
searing, the cooking should be at a gentle,
moderate heat.

FILET OF BEEF WITH FRIED BANANAS

276

AMERICAN COOKERY

Roast Venison, Virginia Style

Let the haunch hang for a week in a cold
place. The day before it is to be- used
wash in warm vinegar and water, and then
rub with butter to soften the skin.
Cover the top and sides with well-
greased paper and over this put a half-
inch layer of flour and water mixed to a
paste. Over this put another layer of
greased paper. The next day put into
the roasting pan, allowing three hours for
cooking a twelve-pound roast. Put one
pint of water in the pan and cover close
with another pan. The oven should be
hot. At the end of an hour baste well.
Half an hour before serving time remove
the papers and baste thoroughly with a cup
of cider and a spoonful of melted butter.
Dredge with flour and return to the oven.

ter after measuring, and toss the crumbs
in, stirring until all have taken up some
of the butter. Blanch one-fourth a
pound of sweet almonds, weighed after
the shells are removed. Chop rather
fine and then pound to a paste, adding
white of egg as needed to keep the paste
from becoming oily. Beat the yolks of
three eggs well; add half a cup of cream.
Beat again and add a pinch of nutmeg,
half a teaspoonful of salt, the bread
crumbs, alternating with the almonds.
Beat the whites of eggs till stiff and fold
into the mixture. Do not press too
close when stuffing the fowl. Any dress-
ing left over may be shaped into a little
loaf and baked in the pan with the roast.

Macaroni-and-Chicken Pudding

Break the sticks of macaroni in a half-

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NUTTED CREAM

Repeat the basting four times. The
oven should be hot enough to brown the
meat nicely. Remove to a hot dish and
put in a warming oven. Remove the
fat from the gravy, and set the pan on top
of the stove; add a tablespoonful of
flour and stir till well browned. Add a
glass of cider, half a teaspoonful of salt
and a sprinkle of pepper. Stir well,
add half a small glass of currant jelly,
and when melted strain into a gravy boat.

Almond Stuffing for Turkey or
Chicken

Use only the white crumbs well dried.
For three-fourths a pound allow six
tablespoonfuls of butter. Melt the but-

pound package into thirds. Put into
boiling, salted water and keep boiling for
half an hour or longer, if the sticks were
very dry. Chop one-half pound of best
boned chicken into fine bits; add two
ounces of blanched almonds, chopped fine,
one-fourth pound of moderately sharp
cheese, grated or diced very fine. Mix all
together. Beat two eggs till light; add two
tablespoonfuls of cream or chicken broth,
one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and a very
small pinch of nutmeg. Add this to the
macaroni mixture. Have ready a mold
perfectly smooth inside and free from
fancy indentations. Butter the inside
generously and fill with the pudding
mixture to about three-fourths of the

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

277

capacity of the mold. Butter the cover
and put in place. Put the mold in
boiling water or in a steamer and keep
the water boiling for two hours. Remove
the cover to the mold, invert the dish
from which the pudding is to be served,
place it over the mold, hold the two
firmly together, invert the dish and
let remain for a few moments before lifting
the mold. Have ready a delicately
flavored tomato sauce and pour this
around, not over, the pudding. This
dish is easily within the possibilities of
kitchenette housekeeping, and the tomato
sauce can be evolved very easily from a
can of excellent tomato soup.

Cranberry Sauce

Wash the berries and remove all stems,
leaves and imperfect berries. By using
a deep saucepan rather than a shallow
one it will not be necessary to use so
much water to start the cooking, and the
less water one uses the better will be the
sauce. As a rule there should be about
one-eighth as much water, by measure,
as berries. For a quart of berries put a
scant half-cup of water into the pan, add
the berries and as soon as they begin to
soften, add one-fourth a teaspoonful of
baking soda. Stir well and remove all
the froth that rises to the top. Continue
cooking until the berries are thoroughly
softened. Press through a sieve and
throw away the thick skins that will not
pass through. Return the pulp to the
clean pan, add two cups of sugar, cook
till the sugar is melted and turn into the
dish from which the sauce is to be served.
When cool, cover to prevent the forma-
tion of a thick skin.

Nutted Cream

Soak a quarter box of gelatine in one-
half cup of cold water until softened.
Whip stiff three cups of heavy cream
in a bowl standing in a pan of ice-water,
and mix into this one-third cup of
chopped nuts, three-quarters of a cup of
powdered sugar, and one teaspoonful of
vanilla. Add to the hydrated gelatine

BREAKFAST PUFFBALLS

one-fourth cup of hot water, and dissolve
by standing in a bowl of hot water.
Pour the dissolved gelatine over the
cream, and stir until the whole is well
mixed and the mixture has begun to
thicken slightly. Pour into a mold; turn
out when ready to serve, and sprinkle
all over with chopped nuts.

Breakfast Puffballs

Sift with one pint of flour two tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder and one
teaspoonful of salt, also one-half grated
nutmeg. Add one-half cup of sugar, one
cup of milk, and two eggs, unbeaten.
Beat all together until very light, and
drop, a tablespoonful at a time, into deep
fat. For the best results, the batter
should be stiff enough to hold a spoon
upright, and enough flour should be
added until this result has been gained.
The puffs should be eaten warm for
breakfast.

Brazilian Salad

2 cups boiled Lima beans

1 cup raw celery

1 cup raw sweet green peppers

BRAZILIAN SALAD

278

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cut celery and peppers in strips the
size of small matches. Mix vegetables
with French dressing. Sprinkle with
chopped parsley. Peanut oil substituted
for olive oil in the French dressing gives
an agreeable flavor.

Cranberry Jelly

The addition of a little softened gelatine
to the sauce just as the sugar is added, and
heating until the gelatine is dissolved, will
give a very pretty mold of cranberry
jelly. If one happens to have pretty
individual molds, holding about half a
cup, the jelly can be unmolded, just

Creamed Artichokes

Pare Jerusalem artichokes, cut into
even-sized pieces, and throw into water, to
which has been added a little vinegar or
lemon juice. Have ready boiling, salted
water and cook the artichokes in this
till tender, allowing the same time as for
potatoes. Make a delicate white sauce
and in this place the drained vegetables.

Browned Chestnuts

Use large Italian chestnuts. With a
sharp knife make two incisions at right
angles to each other through the shell
on one side of each nut. Cover with

MATERIALS FOR HARLEQUIN JELLY

before dinner is announced, and the
serving question will be simplified at the
same time that dainty service is secured.
Prettiest of all is a mold in which a
generous portion of MacLaren's Imperial
Jelly Powder is used. If one takes the
trouble to do double molding, a very
handsome effect can be attained by using
the cranberry jelly as the center with a
thin coating of the gelatine. In that
case, of course, the gelatine mixture would
not be heated with the berries, but kept
in a separate vessel. If double molding
be not attempted, the jelly powder may
be dropped into the hot sauce, allowing
the proper amount of liquid.

boiling water and let cook for half an
hour. Drain and keep hot while re-
moving the shell and thin skin from each
nut. Put into hot fat and saute till
nicely browned. Turn often. Drain on
soft paper and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Harl

equin

Jelly

4 quarts Baldwin apples
1 quart cranberries
4 quinces

Remove stem and blossom ends of
quinces and apples and cut in quarters.
Put in a preserving kettle with cran-
berries. Add cold water to come nearly
to top of fruit. Cook slowly until soft.

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

279

Drain through a jelly bag. Boil juice
twenty minutes; add equal quantity of
heated sugar; boil until a little jellies on a
cold plate (this will occur quickly).
Store in glasses.

Coffee Rolls

1 cup scalded-and-
cooled milk

2 yeast cakes

i cup softened butter

5 cup sugar

f cup eggs

4-| cups bread flour

1 teaspoonful salt

Put all together in a bowl and mix
thoroughly ten minutes. Cover, set aside
in a warm place for six hours. Set in
ice-box until next day. Roll out in a
sheet one-fourth an inch thick, spread
thin with creamed butter, and fold
from side toward middle to make three
layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths an
inch wide, cover and let rise. (This
recipe should make twenty-four of these
pieces); when light, twist ends in opposite
directions, coil and bring ends together.
When light bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven. Frost with confec-
tioner's frosting.

Italian Cake

Beat three ounces of butter and three
of sugar together until well creamed; add
one-half teaspoonful of any desired flavor-
ing extract, then add three eggs, un-
beaten, one at a time, beating in each
one before adding the next. Continue
beating after the last tgg has been added
until the mixture is perfectly smooth and
free from grain. Lastly, stir in very

COFFEE ROLLS

lightly three ounces of pastry flour,
sifted twice. Bake in a loaf cake pan in
a moderate oven for forty minutes.
The very fine flavor of this cake de-
pends on correct manipulation.

Rich Rice Pudding

Thoroughly wash half a cup of rice, soak
over night in slightly salted water; drain,
add one cup of milk, and cook, closely
covered, in a moderate oven. Add to
one pint of cream the yolks of four
eggs, well beaten with half a cup of sugar,
and stir into the cooked rice. Let bake,
still covered, until custard is set, then
make a meringue of the whites of the
eggs, pile it on top, and brown slightly.

Almond Sponge Cake

Blanch and pound in a mortar one
ounce of sweet and one ounce of
bitter almonds. This should be done by
pounding the nuts one or two at a time,
adding a few drops of water or a small

ALMOND SPONGE CAKE

280

AMERICAN COOKERY

5 apples

| cup sugar

^ teaspoonful nutmeg

APPLE ROLL

bit of white of egg to prevent the nuts
from "boiling." They should be a
smooth paste. Beat this into the yolks
of five eggs, alternately, with one cup of
powdered sugar. Then add one cup of
flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder. Lastly, beat in the
stiff-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake
as for angel cake.

Raised Potato Cakes

Mix one pint of mashed potatoes with
one pint of flour, sifted with one-half
teaspoonful of salt. Add milk enough
to make a batter thick enough for
griddle cakes, and two tablespoonfuls of
melted butter. Blend one-half yeast
cake with two tablespoonfuls of water
and one-quarter teaspoonful of baking

soda, and beat into batter. Let rise
until light and full of bubbles, then bake
in greased muffin rings.

This is good to serve with roast lamb,
game, or fricasseed chicken. The cakes
should be taken from the tins and dropped
into gravy before sending to table.

Apple Roll

1| cups flour

f cup lard

1 teaspoonful salt

2 tablespoonfuls butter

Mix first three ingredients; add water
to make paste of right consistency to
roll. Set in ice-box for twenty-four
hours. Roll into a sheet one-eighth an
inch thick; dot with butter, and spread
with apples, sugar and nutmeg. Roll
like a jelly-roll and bake. To serve,
slice across and add pudding sauce.

Quick Puff Paste

Sift, twice, one quart of flour, two tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Rub into this one
cup of lard until quite smooth. Mix one
beaten egg-white with one-half cup of ice
water, and add to flour mixture to make
a very stiff dough. Roll thin, and spread
with one-fourth a cup of softened butter.
Sprinkle with a little flour, roll up like a

A THANKSGIVING DINNER TABLE, CENTERPIECE OF FRUIT

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

281

jelly-roll, double the ends towards the
center, flatten, and roll thin again.
Spread as before with one-quarter cup of
softened butter, and repeat the rolling,
etc., until one cup of butter has been
used. Roll, finally, to one-half inch thick,
and set in cool place for an hour.

This paste is easy to make, since it can
be rolled in any direction. It is so crisp
and flaky that it will fly to pieces if not
carefully cut after baking.

Chicken Filets with Almond Sauce

Sprinkle two chicken filets with salt,
a little pepper, and a trace of cayenne.
Dip in olive oil, and cook in a hot pan
until delicately brown. Add to pan one
cup of equal parts of cream and white
stock. When hot, thicken with two
tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a paste,
with an equal quantity of cream or olive
oil. Stir until sauce boils, then add one-
half cup of thin-sliced almonds.

Sweetbreads with Orange Sauce

Cover the sweetbreads with ice water,
acidulated with a tablespoonful of vine-
gar, and let stand one hour. Parboil
for twenty minutes. Cut in cubes or
slices and brown in buttered pan. Serve
with the following sauce: One cup of
brown stock, thickened with two table-
spoonfuls of flour stirred into two table-
spoonfuls of melted butter. Add to
this one-half tablespoonful of very fine-
cut yellow rind of orange, one tablespoon-
ful of orange juice, one tablespoonful of
orange marmalade. Let all boil to-
gether, and pour over sweetbreads.

Deviled Tomatoes

Cut into thick slices from four to six
tomatoes, dredge with flour, and saute on
pan in hot butter. Serve with one
tablespoonful of the following mixture
on each: Cream together one table-
spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of
powdered sugar, two of dry mustard, and

a dash of salt, a sprinkle of cayenne, and
the hard-boiled yolk of one egg. Add to
this mixture two tablespoonfuls, each, of
chopped green pepper, of fine-chopped
parsley, and of scraped onion. Moisten
with a tablespoonful or less of vinegar,
slightly warm in the pan, and serve on the
tomatoes. The sauce should be rather
thick and stiff.

String Beans, French Style

Use either canned or fresh beans. If
the canned are used, heat thoroughly and
drain very dry. Melt a tablespoonful
of sweet lard and add a half a clove of
garlic cut into as thin slices as possible.
Cook, without browning, five minutes,
and then remove frcm the fat. Add a
heaping tablespoonful of parsley, minced
very fine. Turn the beans into the fat
and stir well, mixing thoroughly with
the fat and parsley.

Currant Jelly Sauce for Game

Slice one onion, and cook in three
tablespoonfuls of butter until just brown.
Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one
bay leaf, and a sprig of celery, and stir
until smooth. Add one pint of good
stock, simmer twenty minutes, strain,
skim off fat, add one-half cup of currant
jelly and stir over fire until melted.

Olive Sauce

Cook two dozen large Queen olives in
hot water for thirty minutes, pare and
chop. Into a saucepan put four table-
spoonfuls of butter; add four tablespoon-
fuls of fine-minced onion, and cook
until brown. Add four tablespoonfuls of
flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a
dash of pepper, stir together to a paste,
and add one and one-half cups of brown
stock. Cook, stirring constantly until
the mixture boils, then stir into it the
chopped olives, and serve.

This is a delicious sauce for fish, game,
cold meat, etc.

Menus for Week in November

Breakfast

Puffed Wheat, Top of Milk

French Omelette

Buttered Toast Marmalade

Doughnuts

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Roast Venison, Virginia Style

Sweet Pickled Prunes Currant Jelly

Baked Potatoes

Cauliflower with Melted Butter

Celery-and-Almond Salad

Apple Pie

Coffee

Supper

Rolled Oats Bread
Trifle

Tunny Fish Salad
Tea

Breakfast

Orange Juice

Scrambled Eggs

Rye Meal Biscuits

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Pommes a l'Otero

Toasted Cheese Crackers

Piccalilli

Tea Ring, Carrot Marmalade

Tea

Dinner

Consomme

Roast Lamb, Brown Gravy

Spiced Grape Jelly

Boiled Hominy (Samp)

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered

Canned Strawberries

Sugar Cookies

Coffee

Breakfast

Baked Apples, Cream

Broiled Ham

Eggs in Shell

Hot Rolls (reheated)

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Rich Vegetable Soup

Bread Sticks

Hot Gingerbread

Tea

Dinner

Cream of Salsify Soup

Planked Steak

Boiled Onions Carrots Cauliflower

Browned Chestnuts

Canned Pears Sponge Cake Coffee

Breakfast

Grapefruit

Pan-broiled Oysters on Toast

Griddle Cakes, Maple Syrup

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Minced Lamb on Toast

Poached Egg

Peach Shortcake

Tea

Dinner

Cream of Celery Soup

Chicken en Casserole

Stewed Corn with Green Peppers

Celery Ripe Olives

Cafe Parfait

Coffee

Breakfast

Philadelphia Scrapple

Fried Apples

Crusty Rolls
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Scalloped Oysters

Baked Potatoes

Sour Pickles

Parker House Rolls

Peanut Cookies

Tea

Dinner

Clear Tomato Soup

Beef Filet with Vegetables

Endive Salad

One-Two-Three Dessert

Coffee

Puffed Rice, Top of Milk

Stewed Apricots

Kippered Herring, heated

Corn Meal Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Parsnip Soup

Spinach on Toast

Egg Salad

Junket with Strawberry Preserve

Tea

Dinner

Fresh Codfish with Oyster Dressing

Curried -Rice

Scalloped Eggplant

Celery Sour Pickles

Lemon Meringue Tarts

Coffee

<
O

Breakfast

Sausage

Hashed Brown Potatoes

Baking Powder Biscuits

Apple Sauce

Luncheon

Cream of Potato-and-

Chicken Soup

Scalloped Tomatoes

Buttered Toast

Peach Whip

Tea

282

Dinner

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin

Creamed Artichokes

Kumquat-and-Grapefruit Salad

Lemon Sherbet

Sponge Cake

Coffee

Menus for Thanksgiving Dinner without Turkey

Grapefruit Cocktail

Pork Tenderloin, Spiced Grape Jelly

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Creamed Jerusalem Artichokes

Brussels Sprouts, Glazed in Butter

Ripe Olives Spiced Crabs Piccalilli

Celery Glace Tomato Salad

Pumpkin Pie Doughnuts

Raisin Pie Apples, Nuts

Sweet Cider Coffee

Oysters on the Half Shell

Cream of Rice Soup Cheese Puffs

Roast Chicken, Dressing

Currant Jelly

Browned Chestnuts

Asparagus, Mousseline Sauce
Braised Endive
Sweet Peach Pickles Olives

Curled Celery Salted Almonds

Pineapple-and-Marshmallow Salad
Squash Pie Nesselrode Pudding

Sweet Cider Coffee

III

(Kitchenette Housekeeping)

Oyster Cocktail

Cream of Clam Soup

Macaroni-and-Chicken Pudding, Tomato Sauce

String Beans, French Style

Celery Homemade Relishes

Olives Salted Almonds

Pumpkin Pie
Apples Nuts Raisins

Grape Juice Coffee

Menu for New England Thanksgiving Dinner

Oyster Cocktail or Grapefruit

Consomme

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce
Mashed Potato

Mashed Turnips

Boiled Onions

Creamed Cauliflower

Olives

Celery Salted Almonds

Homemade Relishes

Pineapple Sherbet

Pumpkin Pie Mince Pie

Apples Raisins Nuts

Sweet Cider Coffee

283

Putting Thanks into the Thanksgiving Dinner

By Wealtha A. Wilson

BY common consent every one seems peoples of the earth. And, although it

to devote himself a willing sacri- seems that the vacant chair is the saddest

fice to overeating on Thanks- of all things at a feast, this is the time

giving Day. And it must be said that when the vacant chair should preach the

abstemiousness throughout the rest of art of rejoicing in the highest and finest

the year, on the part of most people, and kind of sacrifice, if that chair be vacant

the spirit in which Thanksgiving fare
is eaten does much to protect those who
sin, dietetically. There are many who

because its former occupant rose to the
heights of patriotism and gave his all for
righteousness. A whole lifetime is not

find untold comfort in eating the tra- long enough for returning thanks that
ditional dinner planned long ago when such a life was linked with our own, and
Thanksgiving began. This menu was we were honored with that companion-
probably overbalanced, from the view- ship. These thoughts should settle em-

point of the dietitians of today, but its
faults were fully neutralized and the
whole was given a beautiful stability by
the exuberant thankfulness, which made
a religious rite of the dinner. It was a
pure case of the efficacy of joy and
tranquillity and gratitude as a promoter

phatically the troublesome question as to
what one shall provide for the Thanks-
giving dinner. It should be a little
better than usual.

See to it that the dinner be a joyous one
for everybody. But plan so that no one
shall bear an unjust burden because ofi

of digestibility. Many, to whom tra- elaborate preparations that are beyond

dition is something which must not be
slighted, will always insist on the tra-
ditional Thanksgiving dinner. If the
company be a merry one and large and
meet in the true spirit, the risk to one's
stomach is slight.

Of all the years since the first Thanks-
giving, we in America have, probably,

the capabilities of the one in charge.
See to it that extravagance be ruled out
completely. Extravagance is always ini
bad taste, no matter how large and steady
may be one's bank account. An ex-
travagant meal is rarely satisfactory.
Keep the menu down to the size of th<
party that is being entertained. Above

more cause for thankfulness this year everything else consider the culinary staff.

thanAever before. All our past blessings
as a nation should be recalled, and
likewise all the blessings brought to us
by this war. Our lines have, indeed,
fallen in pleasant places — how pleasant
we would never have realized, even
slightly, had we taken no part in the
sacrifice suffered by the majority* of the

If, as is the case in many homes today
there be no maid, consider that fact first
in planning the cooking, and next for the
serving. Prepare as much as possible
the day before, or even two days before
If the weather is cold, the turkey can be
dressed ready for stuffing two days be
fore Thanksgiving Day. The dressing

284

PUTTING THANKS INTO THE THANKSGIVING DINNER

285

can be made ready for the last minute's
putting together one or two days before
the^day. The cranberry sauce can be
made ready and sealed weeks before.
If it is to be molded, a jar of the sauce can
be opened, reheated, and poured into
molds for serving. Gelatine, if used,
should be added at the reheating. The
pumpkin for the pies can be ready for
several days before it is needed, being
sealed while hot and kept in a cold place.
The custard can be mixed and the pies
baked the day before Thanksgiving.
If nuts are needed for the salad, they can
be prepared days before. Almonds
should be browned and salted the day
before. After the turkey is in the oven,
it will be a slight task to prepare the
vegetables, but one should work a little
ahead of the usual schedule on Thanks-
giving morning, for there are sure to be
interruptions. Turnip should be cooked
the day before and reheated and served on
the day needed. Celery should be cleaned
and put to crisp in ice-water about an
hour and a half before the meal is served,
as itjabsorbs water readily and loses its
delicate flavor. The table should be set
as soon after the turkey is in the oven as
possible. All the silver and glass should
have been polished, at least, the day
before. If one has a good supply, it can
be put into order several days before
it is needed. By polishing the silver in
an aluminum bath a large quantity can
be put in order in half an hour.

In these maidless days, the fireless
baker and cooker should afford valuable

assistance in allowing many things to be
prepared ahead of time, such things, for
instance, as pumpkin and turnips. The
soup could be in making the day before
and reheated easily, unless it hap-
pens to be a cream soup. In kitchenette
cookery, the fireless may make possible a
meal that carries no suggestion of scanti-
ness.

If one has a tea-wagon, the drudgery
of serving is eliminated, because both the
salad and dessert courses can be in place
on the trays, when dinner is announced,
and brought in when needed. By having
a third tray in waiting on the wagon at
the end of the meat course, everything
that is to be removed can be taken out on
that, returning with the next tray al-
ready arranged for salad. The coffee
should be measured and placed in the
pot with the necessary amount of water
and egg for clearing, and set on the back
of the range when dinner is announced.
When the salad-course is served, the
coffee should be placed where it will come
to the boil very slowly. When dessert is
about to be served, the coffee should be
allowed to boil up sharply for a second
and then the pot should be set in a pan
of hot water. Of course, if one has a
percolator, the coffee will be in readiness
for making before the meal is served.
By planning carefully and sensibly, it
should be possible for the hostess
without a maid to serve a really elab-
orate meal without delay and with a
charm that adds materially to the
pleasure of the meal.

Hail, the Cranberry!

The rosy velvet of the peach's cheek,

The purple of the plum, must fade away,

And e'en the coat of Autumn's latest pear,
Dusk-gold and tawny-russet, must decay.

And still, no lack of appetizing sauce,

Piquant and rich, your winter fare need show,

For then the brilliant jewel of the marsh

Your board shall brighten with its crimson
glow.

And if, perchance, your family would dine
On dainty tart or satisfying pie,

What better filling for the same than this,
The juiceful berry of the ruby dye?

So hail we all with joyous gratitude
Pomona's solace for a season chill,

Fit emblem of the fireside's cosy charm
When Winter's frosty step is at the sill!

— Harriet Whitney Symonds.

Cheese

By Hazel B. Stevens

AT our house, in the event of a
sudden food emergency, — such
as need for a quick supper, hurry-
up picnic plans, or the unexpected coming
of guests, — to the query, "What shall
we fix?" some one of the family, unless
some other menu is obviously available,
promptly answers — "Cheese!' And then
we laugh.

Or else somebody just goes down cellar
and gets the cheese, without saying any-
thing. Nobody ever bothers to ask,
"Is there Cheese?" For there, prac-
tically, always is.

Now, I would not lead the reader to
think that, as a family, we live on cheese
exclusively. Or even that we eat it
every day. Merely that it is a good old
standby to have on hand; and perhaps not
properly appreciated by all cooks. It
may, on short notice, be converted into
any one of a dozen appetizing concoc-
tions. It may be the main ingredient, or
a very efficient auxiliary.

Personally, I like to think that no one
could happen into our house at any time
of the day or night, needing food, that
we could not supply that need without
■flurry or embarrassment, and in a way
that would not suggest a makeshift,
within the briefest sort of time limit.
One of the reasons why we might dare
make such a boast, is the fat, comfortably
adequate cheese below stairs. For we
buy a whole cheese at a time, and keep
a standing order with a good factory for
the kind of full-cream cheese, with a
"bite" to it, that we particularly like.
One cheese lasts us three months or over;
so, you see, we don't eat it three times a
day! A whole cheese keeps perfectly

gar, and may be wrapped in a towel
slightly moistened with vinegar.

It is unnecessary to state that we get
better cheese, and cheaper, than if we
bought it pound by pound.

The other night, an automobile load
of seven accompanied us home — all of
us famished — after ten o'clock at night.
We had been away in the canyon for
ten days, and the larder, consequently,
was "empty" of perishables. We served
hot cheese sandwiches, — ■ sometimes
called "Cheese Delights," — 'fried a
golden brown; along with apricot-pine-
apple conserve and hot coffee. The
bread we had brought with us. Counting
the low bowl of nasturtiums in the
center of the table, could we by long
planning have thought up a simple
"golden" supper that would have been
prettier, or more satisfying?

To make the cheese sandwiches, press
sliced cheese firmly between slices of
bread cut not too thin; and cut the sand-
wiches across either in the triangular
or oblong shape. I fried them, this time,
in olive oil, since I had no butter. Lack-
ing either, I could have used good clear
bacon drippings.

Instead of the sandwiches, I might have
served rarebit on toast, or just toasted
cheese, or tomato-cheese "wiggle."
Crackers would have gone as well as
toast with the three above. Slices of
stale bread, laid in a dripping pan and
covered with thin slices of cheese, and
with a half a cup of milk poured into the
pan, makes a quick "oven" dish, which
will be ready as soon as the cheese is
melted. The milk soaks up into the
bread, rendering it the consistency of

well for the length of time mentioned, if custard.

it is carefully wrapped, and put in a Given eggs, but not bread, I should

moderately cool place. Where there is a have beaten up puffy omelets, and

tendency to mold, the cheese may be sprinkled grated cheese generously over

wiped off with a cloth wrung from vine- the top of each before I folded it, and

286

CHEESE

'287

took it up. These, delicately brown,
served with a tart red jelly, would have
been a delight to the eye and to the
palate. My rule is, beat whites and yolks
of eggs separately, not trying to manage
an omelet of more than three eggs at a
time. To the yolks, add a tablespoonful
of milk for each egg; and fold the yolks
lightly into the whites. The secrets
of a successful omelet are: to beat whites
stiff, fold together lightly, and get the
omelet immediately into the hot greased
griddle.

Or a Cheese Souffle:

2 tablespoonfuls butter

3 tablespoonfuls flour
% cup scalded milk

\ teaspoonful salt

Few grains cayenne
^ cup grated cheese
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs

Melt butter, add flour, and when well
mixed, add scalded milk gradually. Then
add salt, cayenne, and cheese, and well-
beaten yolks. Cook until thick. Cut
and fold in well-beaten whites and cook
over boiling water fifteen minutes, with-
our removing the cover during the fifteen
minutes. Serve immediately.

For a Welsh rarebit, there are many
good conventional rules. We are very
fond, too, of what an English cook called
the "original English" rarebit. It is no
more than straight melted cheese, to
which has been added a little milk, and
extra salt just as it is taken up. Instead
of milk, or along with it, we often add a
tablespoonful of catsup, or two of chili
sauce. In the out-doors, or where the
odor is not objectionable, onions may be
sliced thin and sauted in bacon drippings;
when the onions are cooked tender, add
the cheese, and serve the dish as soon as
the cheese is melted. This is piquant.

Other possibilities for my " sudden
supper," granted a few cans in the store
cupboard, would have been a tomato-
cheese-salmon combination, cooked in the
frying pan with generous seasoning of
salt, pepper, and butter, and thickened —
not too dry — with bread crumbs.

So much for cheese as the complete
base of a meal.

We make our own pimiento cheese, at

a cost of not more than a fourth what we
pay by the small package amount; a
comparison of ours with the commercial,
from the standpoint of either looks or
taste, is certainly not to the detriment of
ours. Take one large can of tinned milk,
one small can of pimientos, chopped fine,
to one pound of cheese. Cook over hot
water in a double boiler until the mixture
thickens. Season with salt and paprika,
just before taking off; the amount of salt
depends on the saltiness of the original
cheese, of course, and upon taste.

This in itself is a good base for informal
luncheons. Thin bread and butter
spread with it, and served with a "green
salad," is delicious. Or nuts and plum,
or some other tart fruit jelly served
along with it, so that each person can
make his own combination, is good.

For the lunch basket, sandwiches quite
differently flavored may be made by
combining with the pimiento cheese
chopped olives, either green or ripe;
chopped chive, or pepper-grass or water-
cress; or any kind of chopped pickle;
chopped nuts; or currant jelly may be
spread in a thin layer over the cheese, —
the cheese keeps the jelly from "soaking
into" the bread.

"What is it that makes your salads
different?'3 asked a guest. — T have a
reputation for salads, it seems. — Of
course, there are many reasons; but one
of them might be given with the family
chorus-word — ■ " Cheese ! "

A little crumbled cheese, not enough
to be detected, gives richness and "tang"
to almost any meat, fish, vegetable, or
fruit salad. Grated cheese sprinkled over
the top gives both color and flavor. Then
there are delightful salads where the cheese
is meant to be recognized: as, sliced pine-
apple spread with a soft creamed cheese,
and the center piled with dressing.

At some exclusive hotels noted for
clever chefs of taste, they serve certain
vegetable dishes under fancy names, the
secret of which is — "Cheese!" The
four quarters of cauliflower, — after they
have been cooked in salted boiling water

288

AMERICAN COOKERY

until tender, and then drained, — may
be fitted together in a baking-dish, the
center hole filled with cheese, and a
cream sauce poured around the base.
Fifteen minutes in the oven will melt
the cheese. Or the tender cauliflower
may be arranged in layers in a casse-
role with bread crumbs, plenty of butter,
pepper and salt, and crumbled cheese,
and milk enough to moisten well. Many
left-over vegetables, including string
beans and potatoes, may be made equally
palatable on the second day by the above
method of serving. Scalloped potatoes,
where the raw sliced potatoes are used,
may be improved by a little crumbled
cheese. Rice, in alternating layers with
cheese and bits of butter, and well mois-

tened with milk, is excellent as a vegetable.

Instead of the conventional way of serv-
ing macaroni and cheese, try pouring over
the macaroni a cheese cream-sauce based
on the water which you have drained off
from the macaroni, thickened with flour
mixed smooth with milk. This way takes
less cheese, and is richer in effect, because
the cheese flavor is more successfully
blended throughout the macaroni. The
sauce should be well salted.

Two more details about cheese —
Bits of the left-overs may be never so
dry, yet they may be grated and used
for flavorings. There is on the market
now a regular cheese-grinder. Bits of
cheese may be dropped into it, and ground
out as needed.

A Song

The wheel turns and the water falls.
Shall we not linger here and rest?

The sun, grown weary of the day,
Has lit his camp fires in the west,
And far away
A late bird calls.

The wheel turns and the slow hours fall
From off Time's spindle. You and I,

Shall we have woven a cloth of gold,
To make Love brave in, ere we die
Or grow too old
To hear him call?

The wheel turns and the water falls.
The singing stream that knew the hill

Leaps to the wheel, and, broken there,
Goes coursing onwards, singing stil!,
And hasting where
The deep sea calls.

The wheel stops. See, the shadows fall,
The sleeping sun no beacon shows.

Belov'd, we too, even as the stream,
Have known the breaking wh^l it knovs;
But holds our dream
Till Death shall call.

— Ethel Clijjord.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

"Innings!"

DUNBAR gave a start and muttered,
"I thought that was the dinner
bell — Hope they have a good — " He
paused a moment. "Who is that?" he
exclaimed; "looks like the pictures of
St. Peter, as I'm alive — "

"Aha, but are you?" replied the
specter, advancing. "I am glad to be so
easily recognized — that bell was
Charon's.

"Who are you?" he asked.

"Dunbar of Norburg."

"And your age?"

"Forty-two."

St. Peter consulted his books and
replied, "Why, you are not due for forty-
five years yet! What hurried you on so
soon?"

"Heart failure," Dunbar faltered.

"Yes, people usually do have 'heart
failure' when they die," St. Peter chuck-
led, "but to be specific."

Dunbar did not reply, and St. Peter
took down the phone and after a mo-
ment lost his look of bewilderment and
perplexity.

"Ah, yes, I see, I understand! Mes-
senger says you flew mad at your daughter
because she wanted 35.99 for a new hat
and you thought 33.99 was enough —
as that was all your mother used to pay
for a hat! There are a good many like
you - 'Fess up, is this true:"

Junbar bowed his head and blushed.

"Well, I thought as much! Heart
l.ilure. ha, ha, such a convenient cloak
f r jus plain 'mad." St. Peter turned
to th j hone again.

"Yes, I see, — always a hearty eater,
would have sweets and meats regardless
of all medical advice to the contrary!
Yes, flew mad again last night at his
gardener because he could not pay his
rent — Yes, habitual overeater, habitual
grumbler at home, miserly for one of his
means — "

St. Peter turned to Dunbar, whose face
wore a look of discomfiture by this time.

"We have many similar cases!" he
finally offered. "Peters of Bleerville
came up yesterday — 'heart failure,'
plain overeating; Willis of Selton —
'heart failure,' plain overdrinking; Phil-
man of Neurton — same cause, plain dis-
sipation; Carlmeyer of Mayton — 'heart
failure' again, plain overworking, — fifty
yesterday! A very common malady,
.indeed, contagious and infectious!"

Just at this moment a weak knock
sounded, and Weasel, Dunbar's gardener,
entered.

"Name?" inquired St. Peter.

"Weasel." Dunbar started.

"Age?"

"Eighty-four."

"What brought you here?"

"Result of an auto accident."

Dunbar gasped and turned pale. "Why,
I hit him three weeks ago, but he seemed
all right yesterday — I — I — forgot he
had been laid up when he said he could
not pay his rent — I — "

" Silent ! " commanded St. Peter. " Yes,
Weasel, I remember you now. We were
told to look for you forty years ago, when
you were run down by the train; but
good, clean habits, sane living, a keen
philosophy of life pulled you through,

289

290

AMERICAN COOKERY

and but for this accident you need not
have come for ten years yet."

St. Peter looked thoughtful!

"I believe you have helped me out,
though," he finally remarked. "You
have all the virtues Dunbar and these
fifty others lack. I'll appoint you their
deputy for six months. Give them good,
hard discipline in the virtues of life.

"Yes, you can do it well! They are
to obey your every command. I'll give
them rigid examination when the time of
probation has expired — • and — "

"Oh, papa, wake up, you are having
nightmare — ■" cried a sweet voice.

Dunbar opened his eyes, started, and
strove to control the muscles of his face
as he wildly expostulated — ■

"Oh, Dorothy, get two hats at any
price — ■ I can pay for them. Go and
tell your mother not to fuss for supper — ■
bread and milk will do — the doctors
advised it, you know. Yes, send Weasel
up at once — I want to see him on
important business matters — •"

L. M.

* * *
Water Plants for Your Windows

ANY time till the end of December we
plant the Chinese Sacred Lilies and
Narcissi in water. For growing them we
use large glass bowls eight inches in di-
ameter. There are bowls provided
especially ornamented in original Chinese
Hieroglyphics, and these are pretty as well
as ornamental.

Three or four bulbs of the Chinese
Lily are put into each, supported by
placing pebbles about the bulbs, and the
bowl is filled two-thirds full of water and
set in a sunny window in a cool room
free from draughts. As growth pro-
ceeds, the roots work their way among the
pebbles, matting together, and this
holds the bulbs as securely as if they
grew in the ground.

If your room is too warm, the bulbs
will grow too fast and the stalks will be
weak and spindling, not able to hold up
the flower heads, which will also be small.

The clean light and dark browns of

the roots showing through the glass of
the bowl contrast delightfully with the
rich, fresh green of the stalks as develop-
ment goes on.

All Chinamen in this country grow
their native lily, for with them it is the
good-luck plant, and when it grows well,
as it always does, becomes a good omen,
for it means that luck will be with them
throughout the year. These Celestials
literally "love-up" these plants, and so
they bloom well for them, and so they will
for you if you provide the few neces-
saries already mentioned.

The bulbs that you can buy at your
florist's will yield large, white flowers with
a yellow center, deliciously fragrant, some
six or seven weeks from planting; so if
you put some into water, at once, you
will be delighted with bloom in January
and February, when flowers are at a
premium. And if you continue planting
every week for a few weeks, you can
prolong your water-blooming plants
nearly till Easter.

A bowl of these flowers will perfume
the whole atmosphere of a room with the
most bewitching odors, giving an air of
culture and refinement to the simplest
arrangements.

The Narcissi

The Narcissus or Yellow Daffodil grew
first in southern France and along the
banks of the Mediterranean Sea. It was
then carried over to England and
then over here to us. It used to be the
custom to plant them on All-Hallows,
and if the bulbs were well developed by
St. Barbara's Day, December 4, there
would be flowers by Christmas, and this
was a token of a fruitful New Year.

These flowers appear in great bunches,
often ten, eighteen, and more flowers on
one stalk. The bulbs do not throw out
as many stalks as those of the Chinese
Sacred Lily, but there are many more
flowers to a stalk.

The flowers are white in color, only more
so than those of the Chinese Sacred Lily,
and have a double yellow center. They

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

291

are deiiciously fragrant. Planting at
once and at short intervals for a few-
weeks will provide you flowers for a long
time in the Xew Year.

There is no simpler way to grow plants
than to grow them in water, and we
would not like to have a season pass
without these beautiful water plants in
our home. We have no hothouse or any
special room for plants, but grow them
in the family living-room where we can
see them and enjoy them all the time.

We have four large windows to the
south, and one to the east, and it is in
these south windows where the water
plants luxuriate, along with the other
plants.

The windows come within four inches of
the floor and are high in proportion. A
shelf a little below the window-sills is
the place where the plants stand. Thus
they get plenty of sunshine and light, do
not shut out our view, and always thrive.

If your room is too warm, I can only
promise you spindling plants, small
flowers and short-lived at that. f. m. c.
* * *

Candlesticks

WHENEVER I see a pretty candle-
stick I have a sudden longing to
possess it, and I have learned that I am
not alone in this longing. Many a
woman has felt the fascination of the
candlestick. Electric lights are wonder-
ful, and we would not do without them;
nevertheless, we love the soft glow of
candlelight. Perhaps it is a part of our
inheritance from the past.

Mother, I remember, used to keep a
candle in every room in the house.
Sometimes, when, at an inopportune
moment, I have been left alone in the
dark because the electric light took a
notion to "go out," I have wished that
my mother's habit still prevailed.

But in those "good old days of old"
candlesticks were not expensive items.
Not always. In the frontier homes they
were apt to be as rustic as was the house
itself and all its furnishings. The can-

dlesticks were not of brass, or other
metal, carefully made to be handed down
to posterity. Ours was — Well, mother
made them herself. Thus:

A bit of board about an inch thick, or
more, of the size of a book, corners
rounded with a knife — this the founda-
tion. In the center of the block, mother
would draw a triangle to fit neatly over
a candle circle. At each angle of the
triangle a nail was driven into the block,
just far enough to hold firm, and a
candle inserted between the nails. Often-
times a little knob was fastened at one
corner of the wooden block to serve as a
handle for the most rustic of candlesticks.

Remembering my mother's candle-
sticks, not long ago I made a very dainty
"consolation" gift along similar lines.
It was made like mother's candlesticks,
only smaller, and carried a tag: "To
light your way." I selected a little pine
block, smoothed it with sandpaper,
rubbed it with powdered pumace stone
wet with water (linseed oil might be used)
till it was as smooth as glass. Holding
my candle in the center, I drew a circle,
which guided me in the placing of three
headless nails. At one corner of my
block I screwed into place, standing
upright, a large screw eye to be used as a
handle. Then I silvered the entire
candlestick with aluminum paint. In-
deed, it was a pretty little thing. Among
my guests, it was something of a novelty,
and attracted more attention than the
larger prizes.

A month later the girl who drew the
"consolation candlestick" invited us to
her home. To our delight she had made
another use for the candlestick idea, for
at each of our places stood a little home-
made candlestick (patterned after mine),
painted in ivory enamel, and holding up
its bit of light: and after the luncheon,
each of us carefully carried home our very
dainty candlestick. We'll always re-
member that luncheon!

In fact, the idea spread farther. One
of our number (a bride) has made a
candlestick for each and every room in

292

AMERICAN COOKERY

her pretty new bungalow, and decorated
each candlestick to match the furnish-
ings of the room. — It doesn't matter
if the electric lights do "go out." Be-
hold!— a candlestick. r. f.

* * *
Orange Jelly

THIS kis a most convenient sweet to
have-on hand in quantity. It is
delicious in itself and makes an invalu-
able medium for securing those fruit
flavors that refuse to form jellies alone.
The orange jelly only develops the other
flavors instead of masking them. This
jelly requires a week or more to become
stiff enough to be classed as a jelly;
therefore it is best to make it in advance.

Remove the rind from one large orange
in quarters, and cut the rind into thin
slices. Break the orange into sections
and slice thin. Add the juice of half a
lemon and cut the rind (natural) into
thin strips. Follow the same process
with one-fourth of a grapefruit. Place
all in a large bowl and cover with cold
water. Cover and set aside in a cool
place over night, or even for twenty-four
hours. At the end of that time turn all
into a granite pan and add water enough
to cover the fruit. Simmer for an hour
or more until the rinds can be pierced with
a straw easily. If necessary, add more
water during the cooking, but try to keep
no more than the original level.

When the rinds are tender turn all into
a jelly bag and drain without squeezing.
When well drained measure the juice and
turn into a preserving kettle with an
equal amount of sugar. Cook steadily,
but moderately, till the juice forms in
drops on the edge of the spoon and drops
away sharply. Continue cooking for five
minutes and then pour into glasses.
Cover and set aside to thicken.

Th^ thickened jelly can be added to an
~4~a! measure of any fruit juice of which
it is desired to make jelly. Cherries,
h) ^berries, strawb r!es and peaches can
be made into jelv in this way. Add as
much sugar as fruit juice, and take no

account of the orange jelly when measur-
ing the sugar. Cook in the usual way for
jelly and give the usual tests. w. a. w.

* * *

How to Make a New Fudge

MARSHMALLOW fudge is de-
licious. To make it, boil two
cups of sugar with one cup of milk or
cream. Then add cocoa, or one-fourth
bar of chocolate. After this mixture
has boiled, put in butter, — about three
tablespoonfuls. When the candy is done,
add one-half teaspoonful of vanilla or
pineapple extract.

On the buttered plate, place marsh-
mallows at small intervals apart, so
that there will be a marshmallow to each
square of the fudge. Then pour the
candy over the marshmallows, and allow
to cool. When it has hardened some-
what, cut into squares. B.I.

* * *

Cinnamon-Drop Apples

SELECT a good, medium-sized, green
apple (as Pippin), wash, and core.
Fill center with red cinnamon candies,
or use part sugar and part cinnamon
drops. Bake until apples crack open.
Baste the center of the apple with the
red syrup which will form in the bottom
of the pan. a. c. h.

* * #

AN economical and delicious dessert
can be made as follows:
Boil a sweet potato until quite tender,
cut in cubes, place them in a pan with
sugar and water and boil until the syrup
is quite thick. Remove from fire, and
eat with the syrup when cool. If the
sweet potato is good, it tastes like marron-
glace. The sugar and water should
make sufficient syrup to soak the cubes
of sweet potato thoroughly. No measure
is given, as that depends entirely on size
of sweet potato. l.

The necessaries of life might be
cheaper if we did not give the luxuries
right of way.

Query No. 4089. — "Is it possible to Pre-
serve White Grapes as you would peaches or
other fruit, at home, with success? j- *N( ^

"I once ate tongue served with a delicious
Brown Sauce that had a good deal of butter in it,
a caramelized taste, also a piquant taste, though
not too sour. It was very dark brown in color.
Can you give me the recipe?

"Which kind of Preserving Jars are the best
for keeping fruit? In those with an air space
below the cover would you fill this space with
paraffin?"

White Grape Preserve

SQUEEZE out the pulp from white
grapes, and cook in double boiler until
soft enough to separate the seeds easily
by pressing the fruit through a colander.
Add the skins to the seedless pulp,
measure the mixture, allow a cup and
one-half of sugar to every two cups of
grapes, and cook the mixture for fifteen
to twenty minutes. Can and seal as with
any preserves.

rown

Sauce

It is difficult to give a'recipe from the
description of how a sauce or any other
dish looked and tasted. Here, however,
is a good recipe for a standard brown
sauce to serve with meats.

Cook two tablespoonfuls of minced
onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter until
both onion and butter are brown. Strain
out onion, and add to the butter four
tablespoonfuls of browned flour. Stir as
for white sauce; add one cup of brown
stock, and a bayleaf, a sprig of thyme,
and six peppercorns tied in a bit of net-
ting or thin cheesecloth. Cook until
sauce is thick, then add one tablespoonful

of vinegar. Extra seasoning can be used
if desired, and Worcestershire or any other
sauce can be substituted for the vinegar.

Preserving Jars

The question of the best kind of pre-
serving jars is one that is frequently dis-
cussed by housewives. The fact is that
all standard makes are good, and it is
difficult to name one kind which is pre-
eminently the best. The keeping of fruit
or any other food in glass jars depends
entirely on the complete sterilization of
both the fruit and the jar, and the perfect
exclusion of air by sealing the contents.
If this is done, the contents cannot spoil.
We have known housekeepers to wipe out
the inside of a sterilized jar with a clean
dishtowel, and then wonder why the
contents spoiled. The apparently clean
dishtowel was not sterile, and carried
gern\s from the air into the jar, thence to
the fruit. We have also known house-
keepers to sterilize the jars, but not the
rubbers. We have known jars, com-
pletely sterilized by boiling for twenty
minutes, to be taken from the boiler, and
allowed to stand on the table until cool.
This was simply an invitation to the
germs in the air to enter — an invitation
which never fails of acceptance. Every
one who cans food should do this work
as carefully as a surgeon works to ex-
clude germs from wounds.

Once the principles of sterilization and
exclusion of air are mastered, there will
be no such thing as failure in canning.
As for jars, any old wide-necked bottles

293

294

AMERICAN COOKERY

can be used by an expert, or jars whose
covers have been lost or broken. One
such woman of our acquaintance puts up
fruit and vegetables in lidless bottles,
which she seals by pouring in an inch of
melted Crisco or other similar fat, first
heated to a high degree in a pan to ensure
the destruction of possible germs. As
soon as the jar and its contents are cold,
the fat forms a solid cake, which excludes
the air perfectly. The fat is not wasted,
for it can be used over and over again.
Even olive oil, first well heated, may be
used to seal a jar, though this, being
liquid, is neither so convenient to use nor
quite so sure a seal, unless the jar is to
remain undisturbed on the shelf until
time to open it, for if tilted so as to spill
the oil or to expose the fruit or vegetables
to the air, the germs may effect an
entrance.

Paraffin may be used to seal a jar, in
the same way that fat is used, but it is
by no means necessary, or even advisable
to fill the air space below the cover of a
jar with paraffin as our correspondent
suggests. The cover should be put on
without completely sealing the jar, and
the whole thing stood in the canner for
a few minutes to sterilize the bubble of
air. Very often the heat of the fruit will
do this, if the lid has been sterilized and
immediately put on while the fruit is
boiling hot.

Query No. 4090. — "Will you please let me
have recipes for three or four good Entrees?

"Will you give me a recipe for Chocolate
Fudge Sauce to pour over pastry?"

The following are very good dishes for
use as entrees:

Terrapin Chicken

Chop together two hard-cooked eggs
and two cooked chicken livers, and mix
these with two cups of cold, cooked
chicken, cut into sniall pieces. Season
with salt and pepper to taste, and a very
small grating of nutmeg.

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in
a frying pan; add two tablespoonfuls of
flour, and one cup of a mixture of equal

parts of chicken stock and cream. Cook
same as white sauce; add chopped mixt-
ure, cover, and simmer over gentle heat
for ten minutes. Before serving add the
yolk of one egg, beaten with two table-
spoonfuls of cream and one teaspoonful
of lemon juice, stir this into hot mixture,
and pour into timbale cups, crustades,
or into a pretty, deep dish.

Cuban Eggs on Toast •

Cook together for five minutes one-
fourth a cup of sausage meat and one
teaspoonful of grated onion. Add to pan
six beaten eggs, one-fourth a teaspoonful
of salt, and a dash of pepper, and stir until
eggs are creamy. Pour over slices of
buttered toast on a platter, and garnish
with slices of fresh tomato sprinkled with
a little chopped green pepper.

Oysters in Cucumber Cups

Cut large cucumbers into two parts,
crosswise, scoop out centers, and slice off
small pieces from the rounded ends so that
the cups will stand upright. Fill with
small raw oysters, minced fish, or lobster,
and bake in pan in hot oven until cucum-
bers are tender. Serve with a spoonful
of tartar sauce in each cup.

Other good entrees are: A whole calf's
liver, larded with strips of choice fat
bacon, braised, and served with a brown
sauce. Or Oysters a la Mornay, or
Potatoes a l'Otero, both published in
American Cookery for October.

Chocolate Fudge Sauce

Cook together four ounces of chocolate,
two ounces of sugar, and one cup and one-
half of water. Blend one tablespoonful
of cornstarch with one tablespoonful of
butter, or three of cream, and stir into
hot mixture. Cook until the whole boils,
then remove from fire and add a few drops
of vanilla.

Query No. 4091. — "Is it possible to make a
Butterscotch Sauce for ice cream, such as is
served over the butterscotch ice cream at
Schraft's? I tried a recipe that called for vinegar
in it, but did not care for the result."

ADVERTISEMENTS

RISCO

For Frying -For Shortening
^ For Cake Making

makes for
bettor cooking

Crisco is always sold in this air-
tight, sanitary package — never in
bulk. Accept nothing else. One
pound net weight, and larger sizes.

Do you know how to plan your meals so
that yon can eat what you like, yet
hay e a wholesome balanced diet ?

"Balanced Daily Diet", an up-to-
date book written by Janet Mc-
Kenzie Hill, founder of the Boston
Cooking School and editor of
"American Cookery" gives you
an easily followed table for plan-
ning wholesome, enjoyable meals,
with everyday foods. Ready-made
menus given for those who do not
wish to plan their own combi-
nations. More than 150 tempting
new recipes included in this valu-
able book. Sent postpaid, for only
10 cents in stamps. Address De-
partment A-ll, The Procter &
Gamble Company, Cincinnati,
Ohio.

Crisco is a vegetable product that is a perfect shortening,
a perfect frying fat, and perfect enrichment for cakes,
because it is richer, more delicate, and more digestible
than other cooking fats, and because it is always the
same.

These things are true because Crisco is vegetable fat
made by a special process. There is nothing else like
it. It is always snowy white, sweet, wholesome, and
100% richness. It does not contain water or salt.
It is so good and pure that it does not turn rancid.
You need not even keep it on ice.

Use Crisco for Shortening

Pie-crust, short-breads and biscuits are as wholesome as
they are good, when made with Crisco, because Crisco
is strictly vegetable, and therefore is easily digested.
Crisco is tasteless and odorless, too, so you can enjoy
delicate, fruity flavors in pie and short-cake fillings that
are smothered when ordinary shortening is used.

Use Crisco for Cakes

Crisco's whiteness and delicacy make it ideal for the
finest cakes. Simply add salt, and Crisco will give you
the real butter taste in cake, at half of butter expense.
Crisco is so rich that it keeps cake fresh unusually long.
Cookies, puddings and desserts are appetizing indeed
when enriched with Crisco.

Use Crisco for Frying

Here is where you'll enjoy Crisco most — because
Crisco fries without smoking. What a relief to have the
house free from acrid odor when you make croquettes
and other tempting fried dishes. Fried things taste
better, too, because a crisp brown crust forms quickly,
so that all the flavor is retained. Since no taste of the
food escapes into the Crisco, just strain the melted fat
and use it again and again. It cooks away so very
little in each frying that you'll find Crisco a big economy
on this account alone.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

295

296

AMERICAN COOKERY

Butterscotch Sauce

We do not know the kind of sauce used
by Schraft's, but a little vinegar is called
for in the best recipes for both butter-
scotch and butterscotch sauce. Here is
a recipe with the minimum of vinegar:

Melt in an agate saucepan two table-
spoonfuls of butter; add two tablespoon-
fuls of browned flour, stir to a paste, then
add three-quarters of a cup of water, and
cook same as white sauce. Lastly, add
one-fourth a cup of molasses, one table-
spoonful of vinegar, and one cup of brown
sugar, and let the whole boil up once.

Spiced Peaches

Proceed as for spiced figs, using seven
pounds of fruit and five pounds of sugar.
Additional water, after the first pint, need
not be added to the fresh fruit. The
quantities given for both spiced peaches
and figs should fill about eight quart jars.
The fruit will keep without sealing in a
cool closet or cellar.

Query No. 4092. — "Kindly give in some
future issue a good, rich recipe for Preserved
Figs. Also for Spiced Figs and Spiced Peaches."

Preserved Figs

Pour three quarts of boiling water over
three quarts of figs, first sprinkled with
one-half cup of baking soda. Let stand
ten minutes, then rinse figs well with cold
water run through them in a colander.
Boil two pounds of sugar in three pints
of water for ten minutes; add figs, cover
closely, and cook slowly until figs are clear
and tender. This may take two hours,
and the quantity of water should not be
allowed to become too much reduced, but
should be added to, from time to time.
When figs are clear, lift them out into
jars, boil down syrup to fifty or fifty-five
degrees by gauge, then pour over figs in
jars and seal. The rind of two or three
oranges, cut in small pieces and cooked
with the figs, is, by some, considered an
improvement.

Spiced Figs

Cook five quarts of figs in one pint of
water and one pint of vinegar until tender.
Add to kettle: Three pounds of sugar, an
ounce of whole cloves, and an ounce of
stick cinnamon broken in small pieces —
these spices to be loosely tied in cheese-
cloth — ■ and use boiling water barely to
cover the figs. Cook the whole until the
figs are clear and transparent, then re-
move the spices and put figs into jars.

Query No. 4093 . — ''Can you give me a recipe
for a peculiarly Rich Light Waffle, which I have
been told is made with cream?"

Rich Waffles

Add to two cups of cream the beaten
yolks of three eggs, one-fourth cup of
sugar, two cups of flour, sifted with two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and one-
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Stir to a
smooth batter. Lastly, add the whites
of the eggs beaten dry. Cook in hot, well-
greased tins, and dust with powdered
sugar before serving. The quantities
given should make a dozen waffles.

Query No. 4094. — "Will you please tell me
how Flowers are Crystallized for decorating
cakes?"

Crystallized Flowers

The crystallized flowers used for deco-
ration in some of the hotels call for long
practice and great skill to make. In fact.
a good artist in this line is a rare thing.
But the following is a simple and effec-
tive method, which will give a pleasing
result.

Brush over the petals and leaves of the
flowers with white of egg beaten just
enough to flow from a camel's-hair brush
— a little water, about a tablespoonful to
each egg-white, will prevent too many
bubbles from forming. Then dip the
leaves, if flat, into a fine quality of well-
crystallized granulated sugar, or the sugar
may be sifted over both leaves and flowers,
which are then gently shaken to get rid
of the superfluity. Flowers with stiff
petals lend themselves best to the treat-
ment, though violets, nasturtiums, prim-
roses, and some of the single roses are very
effective when sugar-coated in this way.

ADYF.RTTSFMFVTS

Batter Keeps!

To get the utmost out of in-
gredients and to use them in
more than ordinary ways — that
is where domestic science ex-
perts and students of modern
cookery excel.

That is why they have been
so hearty in their endorsement
of Ryzon, The Perfect Baking
Powder. It is not only depend-
able and scientifically accurate,
but it proves itself a valuable ally
in the search for new and time-
saving methods with which to
simplify cooking.

Ryzon

Ryzon is 40c for a full 16 ounce pound — also 25c
and 15c packages. The new Ryzon Baking Book
(original price Si. 00), containing 250 practical rec-
ipes, wilt be mailed, postpaid upon receipt of 30c in
stamps or coin, except in Canada. A pound tin of
Ryzon and a copy of Ryzon Baking Book will be sent
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher who
writes us on school stationery, giving official position.

For instance, batter made with
Ryzon Baking Powder may be put
into ice box or a cool place for a day
or overnight without harm. The
biscuits or cake will be just as good
and rise just as well as if baked
immediately.

The following biscuits, mixed in
the morning, baked in the afternoon
and served crisp and hot are deli-
cious and unusual for afternoon tea.

Ryzon Cheese Drop Biscuit

1 level cupful (Vi pound) flour

Vi teaspoonful salt

Vi cupful (1 gill) water

3 level teaspoonfuls Ryzon

1 level tablespoonful (Vi ounce) butter or fat

8 level tablespoonfuls (Vi cup) grated cheese

Mix like drop baking powder biscuit.
Bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Sufficient
for twelve biscuits.

GENERALCHEMICALCQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

297

298

AMERICAN COOKERY

Query No.4095. — "Is the Filet of veal the
same as the Fricandeau? What part of the beef
animal is the hanging tender, or tenderloin?"

The filet of veal is the thick, upper part
of the leg. It may be said to correspond
to the round of beef. It is cut into
steaks, or is roasted whole. The frican-
deau is the part of the filet that corre-
sponds to the top round in beef. This is
most frequently cooked in one piece, and
is the most expensive cut in the veal
animal, since the entire upper part of the
leg has to be sacrificed to obtain it. In
many restaurants the words filet and
fricandeau are used synonymously, and
are applied to the filet only, the true
fricandeau not being cut.

The hanging tenderloin is the thick part
of the skirt steak or diaphragm of the beef
animal. It is very good when broiled,
if cut crosswise of the long fibers and in
rather thin slices. If cut lengthwise, it is
flavorless and stringy.

New Books

I teaspoonful soda

3 tablespoonfuls
melted butter

Query No. 4096.— "Please publish a recipe for
Griddle Cakes."

Griddle Cakes with Sour Milk

li cups flour

j teaspoonful salt

2 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
1 cup thick sour milk

Sift together the flour, salt, and baking
powder; stir the soda into the milk; add
the egg, beaten very light, and the melted
butter, and stir into the dry ingredients.
Set by spoonfuls on a hot griddle; when
bubbles appear throughout, and the cake
is well browned on the bottom, turn to
brown the other side. Do not turn the
cakes but once. Because three table-
spoonfuls of butter are called for in the
recipe, it is unnecessary to oil the griddle.

The teacher was giving the class a nat-
ural-history lecture on Australia. "There
is one animal," she said, "none of you
have mentioned. It does not stand up on
its legs all the time. It does not walk
like other animals, but takes funny little
skips. What is it?" And the class
yelled with one voice, "Charlie Chaplin!"

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband
with Bettina's Best Recipes. By
Louise Bennett Weaver and
Helen Cowles Le Cron. Cloth,
31.50 net. Britton Publishing Com-
pany, New York.

This is something different from the
ordinary cook-book. It is styled the
Romance of Cooking and Housekeeping.
In brief, it gives the first year's experience
of a young bride's housekeeping, in trying
to please a husband and in catering to his
tastes.

The daily menus are chosen with dis-
cretion and care, and plain, explicit
directions are given for the more impor-
tant dishes of each meal. The plan is
well conceived and carried out; cer-
tainly the book is not uninteresting.

'"And a whole year has gone," said
Bob, as his eyes met Bettina's across the
little table set for two.

"This is our anniversary and I'm mak-
ing a speech. You are wise because from
the first you've realized that we get out
of life just what we put into it. You've
faced things. You've realized that mar-
riage isn't a hit-or-miss proposition.
It's a business — "

"A glorified business, Bobby. Dealing
in materials that can't all be felt and seen
and tasted, but that are, nevertheless,
just as real as others. And after all,
romance is really in everything that we
do lovingly, and intelligently. I find it
in planning and cooking the best and most
economical meals that I can, and in
getting the mending done on time, and
in keeping the house clean and beautiful.
And — 'in having you appreciate things."

The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book. By
Victor Hirtzler, Chef of Hotel St.
Francis, San Francisco. Cloth, 450
pages. Price $5.00. John Willy,
Publisher, Chicago, 111.

Mr. Hirtzler has produced a modern
cook-book of the most comprehensive
kind. It is one of the most important

ADVERTISEMENTS

Wheat Bubbles

And How We Create Them

Puffed Wheat is whole wheat
steam exploded.

The farmer sends to our hop-
pers the finest grains he grows.

We seal those grains in guns,
then apply an hour of fearful
heat. When all the wheat
moisture is turned to steam, we
shoot the guns and the grains
explode.

That is Prof. Anderson's process. The purpose is to blast
every food cell so digestion is easy and complete.

But the result is also bubble grains, thin, flaky, toasted,
with a nutty taste.

The three Puffed Grains are in this way made the
most enticing cereal foods in existence.

Shot From Guns

Puffed to 8 Times Normal Size

These airy, flimsy Puffed Grains are 8 times normal
size.

They taste like food confections. But they are grain
foods — two are whole grains — fitted for digestion as
grains never were before.

Serve with cream and sugar. Float in your bowls of
milk. Mix in every fruit dish. Crisp and lightly butter
for children to eat dry.

There is no other grain food which children love so well.

Puffed Wheat

Puffed Rice

Corn Puffs

Also Puffed Rice Pancake Flour

A New Puffed Product

Also Pancakes Now

A Puffed Rice Pancake Flour Mixture

Now there is also a Puffed Rice Pancake Floor mixture, containing
Purled Rice ground. It makes fluffy pancakes with a nut-like taste
— such pancakes as you never tasted. Try it. Just add milk or
water. The flour is self-raising.

The Quaker Qats (bmpany

Sole Makers

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

299

AMERICAN COOKERY

culinary books that has come from any
press in the last twenty-five years.

A feature of this book that will be ap-
preciated by thousands of caterers, fami-
lies, and all interested in home economics,
is the selection and preparation of foods
in season; the presentation of breakfast,
luncheon, and dinner menus for every
day in the year — the selections appro-
priate, and all of dishes actually prepared
and served in the Hotel St. Francis. This
feature of the book gives a suggestive
quality, a reminder attribute, and a
knowledge of food economies and food
attributes that is hereby brought to the
aid of the proficient and the learner, also
enables even the inexperienced to produce
the well-balanced menu.

The author is one of the ablest chefs of
the day. He knows his subject thor-
oughly and presents his menus and
recipes with the authority of the trained
expert. No superfluous details of method
are given.

The recipes include hors d'ceuvres,

HOSE
SUPPORTER

i >

JOYS and GIRLS enjoy
the lightness and comfort-
able security of Velvet Grip Sup-
porters. And they are the most,
economical because they prevent
injury to stockings and give the
longest wear.
George Frost Co., Makers, Boston

soups, fish, meats, poultry, game, salads,
pastries, ices, and beverages. They
extend also to teas and suppers.

The book is indexed and cross-indexed,
so that every recipe can be referred to on
the instant.

This is quite the most considerable and
important cook-book that has appeared
in recent years; it bears the insignia of
merit and authority. Out of the riches
of a wide experience the author gives the
best of that of which he doth know.

THE food retailer should have every
size of butter dish handily available,
in the opinion of the Escanaba Manufac-
turing Company, and the manner in which
this company delivers its Standard Wire
End Maple Dishes not only carries out
this basic principle, but constitutes an
interesting and unique innovation in the
trade.

This company packs its splendid dish
in tidy cartons, each containing fifty
dishes. Eight of these cartons are put
into a light, strong, fiber board case for
shipment. The retailer can take to his
wrapping counter a carton of each of the
six sizes of Standard Wire End Dishes,
and thus have under his hand a suitable
dish for any quantity of food which he
may wish to package.

The six cartons containing every size
of the dish do not take up any more room
on the wrapping counter than a roll of
paper or a rack of bags. The dishes are
always clean and in order in the carton
until the last one is used, when a fresh
carton is brought from the stock room.
The fiber board shipping case is light and
strong. It is easily stored, and when
opened its contents do not depreciate
while a portion of them is being used.

This company takes a commendable
pride in its Standard Wire End Dish,
which is made of genuine Northern
Michigan Sugar Maple. The dishes are
carefully inspected before packing, and
are delivered in a neat and modern way
that makes an instant appeal to the high-|
class retailer. Practicallv all wholesale'
grocers and paper jobbers handle these
EMCO Dishes.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

300 .

Tastes Good

On the first snowy morning
A steaming bowl of

Wheatena

My ! but it tastes good ?

The savory sweetness of those roasted wheat kernels gives a sharpness to your
appetite for breakfast that makes you eat with a relish. In homes where Wheatena
has been the favorite cereal for two generations you never hear the query, ' 'Oh !
what shall we have for breakfast?"

Breakfast Food
Directions

Into six cups of actively
boiling, slightly salted water,
pour, so slowly that boiling
does not stop, one cup of
Wheatena, and continue
boiling three or more minutes,
then serve. The activity of
the boiling obviates the ?ieedof
stirring.

Wheatena — the 3 minute cereal —
Tastes Good

What more delicious or so easily prepared for breakfast
on cold, frosty mornings? A hot cereal that everyone likes,
full of the nourishment of the whole wheat kernel, so de-
lightful in flavor you never tire of it — prepared, ready to
serve in 3 minutes. And it tastes good !

On request the Wheatena Book with many tasty
Wheatena Recipes will be mailed you free.

The Wheatena Company,

Wheatenaville,

Rahway, New Jersey.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

301

AMERICAN COOKERY

TECO

SELF-RISING

Pancake

and Buckwheat

Flour

IV a in the Flour,

Hot cakes ! In a minute !

Made with Teco pancake and buckwheat

flour.

Wheat cakes ! Waffles ! Gems !

Make the finest easily and quickly with

Teco pancake flour and cold water.

Buckwheat cakes !

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add

cold water to Teco buckwheat flour.

THE EKENBERG CO.

Cortland, N. Y.

SAWYER CRYSTAL BLUE CO.

New England Agents

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

Housekeeper's size, 1 joz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00

(With full directions.)

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness.

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMOVESCO.

Send for a bottle today.

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN, N. Y.

The Story of Coffee

Concluded from page 26q

for it was in that old town, in 1649, that
the first genuine English coffee-house was
established.

What a world of romance and literary
history centers about those English
coffee-houses! They spread all over the
island; London alone is said to have had
three thousand in Dryden's time. Some,
such as Will's Coffee-House, will go down
in the annals of letters as the gathering-
places of the most brilliant wits and
dramatists and poets the British Empire
ever produced. In these cafes, with
their open fronts in summer and their
huge log fires in winter, one might have
found Dryden,' Pope, Gay, Shadwell, all
the celebrities of the day. Here jokes
and puns and epigrams bombarded the
air; here new dramas were planned; here
satires were written that drove authors
back to Grub Street in disgrace and
poverty.

At first no woman thought of entering
such a place; it was a sanctuary for men
only. But, at length, the ladies began to
come — probably to see if their husbands
were there — and as the feminine mind
of the seventeenth century was not in-
terested intensely in play-writing and
similar literary feats, cards were intro-
duced for their benefit. Then came a
rampage of gambling; women literally
went wild over it. Husbands suddenly
found themselves ruined through the
gambling debts of their wives; ladies of
good families committed suicide because
of such losses; one woman, it is recorded,
wagered the very clothes off her back and
had to retire to an upper chamber while
considerate friends went out and bor-
rowed a few garments for her.

In 1675 Charles II ordered every
British coffee-house closed and even
imprisoned several of the proprietors;
but the institutions soon returned to life,
and continued their downward career
until, at least, the close of the seventeenth
century. And thereby hangs a tale.
For the more respectable writers and
intellectuals, wishing a quiet resort, fell

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

o/ Salad for Supper

Winter salads are a problem — Cox's Gelatine
simplifies it. Here is something new: —

A TUNA OR SALMON SALAD

1 envelope COX'S INSTANT POWDERED GELATINE
Va cup cold water 2 Vi cups boiling water

V* cup lemon juice 1 large can Tuna Fish or Salmon

Vi cup chopped pimentoes or olives

Soak Gelatine in cold water; add boiling water and when dissolved
add lemon juice and allow to cool, but not get cold. Pour layer into
wet mold; when set, add layer of fish seasoned to taste, a layer of
olives; pour in enough Gelatine to set mixture — and so on in layers
until mold is filled. Chill, serve on lettuce with dressing.

Unsweetened and unflavored, Cox's makes
no end of nourishing and attractive foods, easy
to prepare and dainty to serve.

Nourishing soups, tempting savories and salads,
delightful desserts are sure to succeed if Cox's
Gelatine is used.

Always have the little checkerboard box of
Cox's Gelatine on hand, and send now for a free
copy of the Cox Manual of Gelatine Cookery.

THE COX GELATINE COMPANY

Dept. D, 100 Hudson Street, New York

x-x-:-»h-x->:-c-x-:

What Tasty Tea!!

The hostess who serves Banquet Tea in-
variably finds her guests enthusiastic over
its delightful flavor.

When you've once used it, you'll never buy
any other kind.

BANQUET TEA

gives you three different blends to choose
from! —

"Tasty Tea for Every Taste"

Banquet Blend, a very popular blend of green and
black tea, packed in red canister. Banquet India and
Ceylon Tea with other choice growths, in green can-
ister. And Banquet Orange Pekoe in orange
canister.

Scientifically blended to bring out all the strength
and flavor — Banquet Tea comes to you with ail
nature's goodness. You'll find it the most economical
tea to use because it takes less.

Sold in convenient pounds, halves and quarters*
If your dealer can't supply you, write direct to us.

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, U, S. A.

, Importers and Packers

Our BEE-BRAND

Manual of Cookery can
now be secured for 50c
in coin or stamps. Send
also for free booklets
on Spices, Tea and
Flavoring Extracts.

Buv advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
303

AMERICAN COOKERY

Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co.

Table Crockery,
China and Glass

For Thanksgiving

DINNER SETS or CHINA DINNER WARE

of all grades taken from our large assort-
ment of Stock patterns enable the pur-
chaser to select just the articles desired
without being obliged to purchase the
articles not required at the time, with
the added advantage of being able to
obtain matchings or additional pieces
of the same pattern later on.

Pyrex Cooking Glassware

Clean, transparent Glass to bake in !

Ware that oven heat cannot break !

Casseroles
Bread Pans

Pie Plates
Ramekins Bakers, etc.

Pyrex Gift Set — consisting of eleven items for
$6.00, packed in£a neat, box, is especially

attractive.

TURKEY PLATTERS

Large and extraordinarily large platters, on
which to serve the national bird or joint of beef;
also plates with same border as platter and
game centers.

Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co.

CROCKERY, CHINA and GLASS
33 Franklin Street - - Boston

Near Washington and Summer Streets

into the practice of renting exclusively
a coffee-house for a night, and then for a
week or a month, until, unwittingly,
certain of such gathering-places became
almost private, and all who were not of
the elect learned to stay away. And
thus originated the famous London clubs,
those assemblies of eighteenth-century
master-minds, such as Addison and Steele,
Johnson and his faithful Boswell, Garrick
the actor, Reynolds the painter, and
poor, vanity-stricken, ugly, lovable
Goldsmith.

What poems, what plays, what essays,
came from those rooms so fragrant with
the aroma of hot coffee! And all this
because some whirling dervish began to
swallow boiled "coal" in the year 1500.

Nowadays most of our Mocha and
Java come from Brazil, and an Amster-
dam burgomaster named Wieser is respon-
sible for that. For he it was who brought
some plants to the Botanical Garden of
his city, and their offspring were trans-
ferred to the Paris Botanical Garden,
whence the coffee-plant came to Mar-
tinique in 1720. Many substitutes have
been offered for the beverage; physi-
cians have raised shrill cries of warning)
against it; but during the last hundred]
years the coffee-pot has steadily grown
in favor in America, and its steaming
contents may justly be called our national
drink.

Another good word fast going out on
use is frugality.

=Domestic Science^

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
I (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

304

ADVERTISEMENTS

JAe

3'dh <fa Better Method.

This company makes wooden dishes for the packaging of the bulk foods you
get at the grocery and meat market.

EMCO dishes are absolutely sanitary. They are also useful in the home.

Suggest that your dealer use them.

EMCO Clothespins and EMCO Toothpicks are guaranteed as to count
and quality. Ask your dealer for them.

ESCANABA MANUFACTURING COMPANY

MANUFACTURERS

ESCANABA, MICHIGAN

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

305

AMERICAN COOKERY

Use

^ TO '

flavor

You want something different-
something that will change
and improve the everyday
cakes, puddings, sauces.

Try flavoring your favorite
dessert or cake with

MAPLEINE

*Z6e Gofden 7 favor

Use less than of an.'" < '^.her flavoring —
its delicious, delicate flav r: will not cook or
freeze out.

TO MAKE INSTANT SYRUP

! j

Just dissolve granulated sugar in
water and flavor with Mapleine.
Mapleine contains no maple sugar,
syrup nor sap, but produces a
taste similar to maple.

Grocers sell Mapleine
2 oz. bottle 35c. Canada 50c.

4c. stamp and trade mark from
Mapleine carton will bring the
Mapleine Cook Book of 200
recipes.

Crescent Mfg. Company

323 Occidental Avenue

Seattle, Wash.

hot

SEVEN-CENT MEALS $Plt50p-rf

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

The Silver Lining

A Thanksgiving Tale

They sat on a shelf in the pantry-way cool.

Said Pumpkin to Mince Pie, "You crusty old
fool!"

They squabbled and each of them thought him-
self best,

Till Pumpkin said, "Wait for Thanksgiving —
the test.

I'll bet you my pie plate that I'm eaten first;

While you, sir, uneaten, with envy will burst."

Thanksgiving Day came, and along with it, John,
Who ate everything his keen eyes fell upon.
"A piece of each one," said this lad to the pies;
"And then I'll determine which one wins the

prize."
But Johnny, alas! was unable to tell,
For Johnny felt suddenly, — not at all well.

Those wicked, old pies had continued their
fight,

Till Johnny's poor tummy grew pained at the
sight; ^

And Johnny said tartly, both pies were so bad,

No worse ones than either could ever be had.

But I think myself that young John was mis-
taken.

'Twas mixing his pies so, gave Johnny that
achin'.

— Ellen M. Ramsay.

His Real Motive

As the crowded car jolted and swayed,
the stout woman standing up lurched
against a seated passenger, tearing his
newspaper and knocking his hat over his
eyes. Immediately he rose and offered
her his seat.

" You are very kind, sir," she said, pant-
ing for breath.

"Not at all, madam," he replied. "It
isn't kindness, it's merely self-defense."

"Were you very sick with the 'flu,'|
Rastus?" "Sick, sick! Man. Ah was
so sick mos' ebery night Ah look in da1
er casualty list for mah name."
— W hiss-Bang (Boston Base Hospital).

"When water becomes ice," asked th<
teacher, "what is the great change thai
takes place?" "The greatest change]
ma'am," said the little boy, " is the change
in price."

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

306

ADVERTISEMENTS

What You Can Do with an Orange

Mrs. Knox Says:

"Fresh Fruits are an essential of life. We should use them in some form
every day. You can use fresh fruit or fruit juices to the greatest possible ad-
vantage and economy if you combine them with pure, plain gelatine. For
instance, here are four recipes for delightful desserts and salads you can make with
orange juice and

KNOX

SPARKLING

GELATINE

Orange Dessert

Orange Charlotte

1 tablespoonful Knox Sparkling Gelatine
£ cup cold water

lj cups boiling water
5 cupful sugar

2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice
Juice of one orange

Soak the gelatine in cold water ten minutes and dissolve
in the boiling water. Add the sugar, lemon and orange
juice; strain, pour into a wet mold and chill.

Orange Cocoanut Custard Jelly

By adding a custard made by cooking the yolks of
two eggs and a cupful of milk until thick enough to coat
a silver spoon, and a half cupful of grated cocoanut, just
before the gelatine begins to set, and molding in wet
custard cups — a Knox Orange Cocoanut Custard
Jelly will be the result.

By adding the well-beaten whites of two eggs to this
jelly just before it sets, beating until light and frothy
and chilling in a wet mold lined with lady fingers or
stale cake, a delicious Knox Orange Charlotte is made.

Orange Nut Salad

By doubling the amount of lemon juice, adding one
tablespoonful each of grated lemon and grated orange
rind, one-half cupful of chopped nuts to the jelly and
pouring into wet molds and serving on lettuce with
mayonnaise or boiled salad dressing, makes a delicious
Orange Nut Salad.

NOTE: If the Acidulated package is used \ of the
Lemon Flavoring may be used in place of the lemon
juice in this salad recipe, saving the cost of lemons.

Plain for general use
easily prepared.

KNOX

"Whenever a recipe calls for
Gelatine — it means KNOX"

Send your grocer's name and address and receive,
free, my Recipe Books "Dainty Desserts" and
"Food Economy," which contain many new ideas
on dessert and salad-making. Any domestic
science teacher can have sufficient gelatine for her
class, if she will write me on school stationery,
stating quantity and when needed.

KNOX GELATINE

Mrs. Charles B. Knox
107 Knox Ave. Johnstown, N. Y.

NOTE: So many readers of American Cookery have
asked why experts call Knox the "4-to-i" Gelatine
that zee give the answer here: — "Because of its
economy — each package makes 4 pints of jelly — 4
times more than the flavored brands"

This package contains an enve-
lope of punt Lemon Flavor fur
the convenience uf the busy
housewife.

KNQX

SPARKLING

*. ,

GElatiHE

> CHARLES B.KNaXGELATMtCOUNC

irfjMiii:;

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
307

AMERICAN COOKERY

wiiMmmmu,,,,; .;;,:;:■.: ]niil::mnti\ii!i^uiuW*m!i'

ON CRISP WAFFLES

gives them that tempting, satisfying " real
flavor from the maple grove " you like
so well. Pure too — just an inimitable
blend of cane and maple sugars boiled
down to a wholesome syrup that you'll find

As Necessary On The Table As
The Sugar And The Cream

Try it on hot biscuits — griddle cakes —
brown bread — steamed bread and French
toast. Use it for sweetening and flavoring
puddings, cakes, frostings — and for mak-
ing delicious fudge and candies. You'll,
like it every way — every day.

Put up in 4 convenient sizes.

Ask your grocer for a can — now.

New England Maple Syrup Co.

BOSTON, MASS.

Write for Uncle John's Recipes — Free

"Cake
Secrets"

Janet McKenzie
Hill

For 10c

Here is an authoritative book on the making
of superbly fine cakes, pie crusts and pastries
that every housewife, domestic science teacher
and student should possess. Sent to any address,
on receipt of 10 cents, by the makers of Swans
Down Cake Flour — the old reliable product
recommended and used by domestic science ex-
perts everywhere. Makes lighter, whiter, finer
cakes.

IGLEHEART BROTHERS

Established 1856

EVANSVILLE, INDIANA

Dept. AC

Canny Finance

A man from the north of Scotland was
on a holiday in Glasgow. On Sunday
evening he was walking along Argyll
Street when he came upon a contingent
of the Salvation Army, and a collection-
bag was thrust in front of his nose. He
dropped a penny into it.

Turning Up Queen Street, he encoun-
tered another contingent of the Salvation
Army, and again a smiling "lass" held a
collection-bag in front of him.

"Na, na!" he said. "I gied a penny
tae a squad o' your folk roon' the corner
jist the noo."

"Really?" said the lass. "That was
very good of you. But, then, you can't
do a good thing too often. And besides,
you know, the Lord will repay you a
hundredfold."

" Aweel," saiu the cautious Scot, "we'll
jist wait till the first transaction's
feenished before we start the second."

— Tid-Bits.

Not 'Appily

Minister: "But, Hooligan, can't you
live with your wife without fighting?"

Hooligan: "No, sir, I can't. Least-
ways, not 'appily." — London Opinion.

Up t^ the Court

In Ohio a negro was arrested on a
charge of horse theft and was duly
indicted and brought to trial. When his
day in court came he was taken before the
judge, and the prosecuting attorney
solemnly read the charge in the indict-
ment to him.

Then the prosecuting attorney put the
question : " Are you guilty or not guilty ?"

The negro rolled uneasily in his chair.
"Well, boss," he finally said, "ain't dat
the very thing we're about to try to find
out?" — N. Y. Truth Seeker.

Some folks figguhs^dey's hurtin' de
church wen dey gits mad and quits, but
dey wrong 'bout dat, — hit don' nevuh
hurt de tree fur de rotten apples t' fall
off! — Hambone's Meditations.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

308

ADVERTISEMENTS

FISH FLAKES

Freshly caught cod and haddock, from the deep sea direct to our large
airy seaside kitchens; carefully prepared, cooked and immediately sealed
in parchment lined containers — made ready for your instant use.

This delicious sea food
gives the real "down

Extremely economical
no bones, no waste.
'For ilb.ofBurnham
6? Morrill Fish
Flakes we require
3 lbs of fresh fish;
you receive only the
white solid' meat.

east" flavor to Cod'

fish Cakes, Cream'

ed Fish, Fish Hash,

Fish Souffle and Fish

Chowder. Try them

with your favorite

recipe.

ORDER FROM YOUR GROCER

Good Eating* an interesting little book of recipes free on request

Creamed Fish

Codfish Balls

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO.

75 Water Street, Portland, Maine.

Packing and specializing in State of Maine food products only— 'the best of their kind— including B & M
Paris Sugar Corn, B& M Pork and Beans, B & M Clam Chowder, B & M Clams, B <2f M Lobster

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

309

AMERICAN COOKERY

SEDVICE TABLE WAGON

IT 5EBVLS VOUB HOME. AND
SAVtS YOUR TIME THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Under she Ives — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grad« piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for GENERAL UTILITY,
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW
KOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET

and Dealer s Name.
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

-T- 5041 Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III.

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Recipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. i65 Oliver st., boston, mass.

SALAD SECRETS

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
less jrecipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N. Y.

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

— j ©Red Label

Spices

TheA.ColburnCa,
Philadelphia,U.SA

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand f©r expert assistance in private
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range
from $60 to $100 a month, or more, with
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and
an average of eight hours a day "on duty."
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are
given the same dignified social recognition as
trained graduate nurses.

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-i
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are!
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths,
leather style. This contains our full Honu
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illusi,
trations, — a complete professional library.

This is only one of several professional ana
homemaker's courses included in our special offer
Full details en request.

COUPON

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago
Please give information about your Correspondent
Course marked X
....Graduate Housekeepers' Course.

Institution Management Course.

....Lunch Room Management Course.
....Teaching of Domestic Science Course.

Home Demonstrators' Course

....Practical Nurse's Course.
....Dietitian's Course.
....Homemaker's Courses

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address.

Information

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference)

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

310

ADVERTISEMENTS

White House

^\ ft* BRAND J nn

Coffee and Teas

The coming of National Prohibition will make
a new and increased demand for both coffee
and teas. They are wholesome and satisfy-
ing, and their more general use will certainly
be of material assistance in solving the great
problems of the day.

White House Coffee and Teas are supreme among
their kind, and are sold in sealed air-tight packages
that keep all goodness in, all badness out.

DWINELL-WRIGHT COMPANY

Principal Coffee Roasters Boston— Chicago

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

Tr*de Mark. Kegstertd.

Gluten Flour,

40% GLUTEN

Guaranteed to comply in all respects »o

•taodard requirements of U. S. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FAR WELL & SHINES

Watertowp, N. Y.

Z*V

CrerffM's,3e««'

GRANNY'S SECRET

Gake Patter

Send for

Gift
Catalog

There is a difference in the lightness

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long

remembered— the best. Perhaps you have some friend who takes

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is the

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c.

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden

times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge

parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no

doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted

and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty

shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts

which will be forwarded upon application.

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I.

IDEAL
NUT CRACKER

Cracks any nut with a twist o*
the wrist.

Brings out the kernels whole.

Especially good for pecans,
English walnuts, Brazil nuts,
filberts and almonds.

If your dealer does not carry the
IDEAL write us

Style 1. Plain nickel E f\ C
plated . .JU

Style 4. Highly polished
nickel plated . 75 eta.

Postage paid anywhere ii tie United Slates

FRANK B.COOK CO.

320 W. Madison St - Chicago

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

311

AMERICAN COOKERY

Increase the Economy

Ready
For Any Appliance

Work done electrically is done eco-
nomically. For instance, it takes
eight tons of coal to do the cooking-
for which an electrical device would
require only three tons.

Yet there are electric chafing dishes,
toasters, percolators, and various other
electric fuel-saving appliances practically
discarded in many homes because it is im-
possible to attach them to a single socket
without removing the lamp. The

/AM IN

two-w/v^t

gives single sockets double outlets.
Makes them double workers.

You can attach any electric appliance
without disturbing the light. At night,
you can use appliance and light. Millions
in successful use. Folder on request.

Every Wired Home Needs Three Or More
At Your Dealer's

OR, »I£g EACH
Made only by

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago
New York San Francisco

Jm£ Z, *' 2450 Sha^e Holder Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment
vnirTwnW townse **$ .sha£ wlth Plu* screws into any electric socket
your Two-Way Plug. Price 15 cents, without twisting the cord.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

312

ADVERTISEMENTS

K]g§G]ffl

ICE CREAM RECIPE

For 1 Gallon Ice Cream

2 quarts milk 1 pint cream

3 packages of NESNAH

Heat two quarts of milk luke warm (re-
move from stove) drop the NESNAH intoit
and dissolve by stirring for one-half minute.
Pour mixture into ice cream can and let it
stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes
until set : pack with ice and salt : freeze to a
thick mush before adding cream, then con-
tinue freezing. Crushed and sweetened fruit
can be added with the cream.

Six Pure Natural Flavors

Chocolate Lemon Almond

Raspberry Orange Vanilla

Ask your Grocer for it

CHR

HANSEN'S

LABORATORY

MAKES

E
S

N
A

NESNAH

MADE

CHR

NesnaHanseN

N
S
E

FOR

MILK
DESSERTS

AND
ICE CREAM

MAKES
DAINTY

DELICIOUS
MILK

DESSERTS

LEMON MILK SHERBET

For 1 Gallon

3 quarts milk 3 packages NESNAH

Heat three quarts of milk luke warm, (re-
move from stove) drop into it three pack-
ages of LEMON NESNAH and stir quickly
for one half minute to dissolve. Pour into
the ice cream can and allow it to stand un-
disturbed ten or fifteen minutes or until set.
Pack with Ice and salt and freeze in the
usual way.

PREPARED BY

The Junket Folks

Box 2507 Little Falls, N. Y.

Salt Mackerel

CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER

RIGHT FROM THE FISHING BOATS TO YOU

s. rtivilLIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK
E. DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE
OCEAN FISH, choicer than any inland dealer could
possibly furnish.

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT,
ccnding by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We
iJ REPAY express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish
rre pure, appetizing and economical and we want YOU
lo try some, payment subject to your approval.

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine t nd will not
spoil on your hands.

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and eady for
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from
meat, at a much lower cost.

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads.
Hight fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are Doiled
and packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. Th<=y
come to you as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy
and the meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from
the shell yourself.

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your
whole family will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of
clams, whether fried or in a chowder.

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled,
SALMON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY
for salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing
packed here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep
light on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use.

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES for
preparing all our products. Write for it. Our list
tells how each kind of fish is put up, with the
delivered price, so you can choose just what ,.--''

you will enjoy most . Send the coupon for it ..--'''

..-*"" Frank E.

FRANK E. DAVIS CO.

326 Central Wharf,

Gloucester, .--""

Mass. ..--* ""

..--'" Name

..--'' Davis Co.,

..--'" 326 Central Wharf,

•-*"" Gloucester, Mass.

Please send me your latest
Fish Price List.

S rreet

City . State

The Milky Way to Economy

52 Pages. Over 200 Recipes, from Soup to Candy

A symposium on milk by Dr. E. V. McCallum, Dr. F. A. Woods
and other emiment authorities.

Reprints from Government Bulletins and from " Models for
Children's Meals." BY MAIL 25c.

Address: Gertrude Ford Daniel, 51 Oliver Street, Boston

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

313

AMERICAN COOKERY

Breakfast Dishes

with

Cocoanut

The flavor and food value of cocoanut is a
welcome addition to many every-day foods.

Cocoanut is especially good in hot
breads, corn muffins, pancakes, waffles
and coffee cakes.

Dromedary Cocoanut has the full flavor
and original moist tenderness of the fresh
nut.

The "Ever-Sealed" package keeps the
unused portion in perfect condition so
that there is no waste. It is economical
to buy "Dromedary."

COCOANUT AND COCOA MUFFINS

2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs, beaten 2 teaspoons baking powder

3 tablespoons sugar f cup of milk 1 ^up Dromedary Cocoanut
3 tablespoons cocoa 2 cups flour 1 pinch salt

Cream butter and sugar together; add cocoa and eggs and beat well. Add milk,
flour sifted with baking powder and salt, then add cocoanut and mix thoroughly. Bake
in well greased and floured muffin-pans.

Every package contains Guarantee

Our new book of Dromedary Novelt
Recipes gives many unique uses of coco;
nut in breakfast dishes, pies, candid
cookies and desserts. Free on request;

The HILLS BROTHERS Q

Dept. G, 375 Washington St., New York

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

314

ADVERTISEMENTS

'ca's Gift

to Hie

myy.

i « |

^IfJIbBh - rf

—■•" — — —

■ •

— is a sterilized cheese of
surprising deliciousness, in
a perfect container — a
cheese that will keep with-
out refrigeration in any
season, any climate.

Even to the interior provinces of India, Africa,
China and Japan, often on camel back —

ELKHORN CHEESE

8 VARIETIES IN TINS

is being sent in ever increasing quantities.
Because no matter where or when you open a
tin of Elkhorn Cheese it will be found as pure
and fresh as on the day it was hermetically
sealed in the parchment lined tin, for
"THE FIRST HANDS TO TOUCH IT
ARE YOURS."

Each and every tin is just chuck-full of solid,
wholesome goodness — of spreading con-
sistency— and of a quality and flavor that
never varies.

No preservatives, no rind, no waste. Stock
your pantry shelves with these 8 varieties.

Kraft
Pimento
Chile
Rarebit

Swiss

Camembert
Roquefort
Limburger

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. COMPANY

"Cheese purveyors to the world"

Send 10c in stamps or coin for sample
tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or
20c for both. Illustrated book of recipes

New York frt . Address 361-3 River Street,
Chicago, Illinois.

Rkhobn (hkesi

8 VARIETIES

IN TINS

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

315

AMERICAN COOKERY

fo! - *■

No Soaking j
Always Ready!
to Cook _^*^$

...» «,.«ki,.
MINUTE TAPIOCA CO,

ORAM'!: MASS-

-.11 aaeutfySBffJJRfef,

for

,ur<-J
u'-f

Minute
Tapioca Cream

Scald 2 cups milk in double boiler. Add
l1* heaping tablespoonfuls of Minute Tapioca;
cook 15 minutes. Beat yolks and whites of 2 eggs sep-
arately. Divide >jj up sugar, putting ^2 in the milk; add the rest"
to yolks with » teaspoonful salt. Pour not mixture slowly into yolks; mix
well. Cook in double boiler till thick. Flavor with vanilla; pour into pudding
dish. Cover with stiffly beaten whites of eggs and brown in oven. Serve cold.

SERVE IT OFTEN

MINUTE Tapioca Cream continues to be the chief fav-
orite among desserts. Easy to make, it is a time-saver
for the busy housewife. Easy to digest, it is good for
children and grown-ups. Served once a week, it will help
keep your family well nourished and happy.

Minute Tapioca may be thoroughly cooked in fifteen
minutes. It requires no soaking. Be sure that the familiar
red and blue package is always on your pantry shelf.

Minute Gelatine always jells — it is measured for use.
It, too, comes in a red and blue package which is easily
identified on your grocer's counter.

The Minute Cook Book has many receipts for the use of Minute
Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. We shall gladly send it to you on request.

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY, 111 E. Main St., Orange, Mass.

316

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

BOSTON

"I mention Stickney & Poor's Spices
particularly because no other kind
gives me such satisfactory results"

so says Mrs. Experienced Housewif-, when writing out her favorite recipe for a friend —

and there's thousands of others just like her in New England.

The unvarying quality, strength and fine flavor assures a uniformity of results, a satisfying cer-
tainty of success, that means much to every woman who prides herself upon her cooking.

You, too, should insist upon Stickney & Poor seasonings and flavorings. Your grocer has the com-
plete line — or should. Ask him for them — see that he sends you no other kind.

Your co-operating servant,

MUSTARDPOT

Stickjvey & Poor Spice Coaupaivy

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919

Mustard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

317

AMERICAN COOKERY

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

CONDITIONS . Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
— — i to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
Stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

_. . , iL • „ it xi_ u You cannot purchase them at the stores.

This shows the jelly turned from the mould

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription.

This shows mould
(upside down)

Cash Price 75 cents.

"PATTY IRONS

»9

AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME
AND EGGS

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1)
:w subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for two

ms.

new
pans

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.

Boston, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

318

ADVERTISEMENTS

PREMIUMS

LADD MIXER

A specially made, clear Glass
Urn, containing Ladd Beater,
home size, which is removable
for use outside. Top highly
nickeled and polished. By all
means the best article yet made.
Beautiful and attractive. We
warrant it saves eggs. Sent,
prepaid, for three (3) new sub-
scriptions. Cash price, $2.25.

LADD

GO AS FAR AS

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price 75c.

SATURN CLOTHESLINE REEL

A round steel ball — dust
proof, nickel plated, war-
ranted 40 ft. line, tested
to 180 lbs. — takes present
clothespin. Use out-door
or in-door. Hangs any-
where. Two spreading
rings. Positively the best
made at any price Nick-
eled.

Sent, prepaid, for one
(1) new subscription.
Cash price 75c.

ROBERT'S
LIGHTNING MIXER

Tens of thousands of delighted
housekeepers daily use this mix-
er and recommend it as being
the most effective beater, mixer
and churner they ever saw.
Beats whites of eggs in half a
minute, whips cream and churns
butter in from one to three
minutes. In making floats, salad
dressing, custards, gravies, char-
lotte russe, egg nog, etc., it must
be used in order to achieve the
best results No spatter. Saves
time and labor.

Sent, postpaid, for one (l)'new
subscription. Cash price 75c.

TURK'S HEAD MOULD

Tin — 2 quart

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new sub-
scription. Cash price 75c.

|TWO CHARLOTTE RUSSE MOULDS

Smaller mould,
four and a half
by three inches,
two inches deep,

Large mould,
eight by four and
a half inches,
three inches
deep.

Heavy tin.
These form a set
and are to be
used together.

Sent, prepaid, for (1) one new subscription. Cash
Price 75 cents.

MAOE IN

Wagner^
KnusTyKonnKooMot^

usTy For Baking Corn Meal or other Muffins

are the last word in muffin pans. These pans not only
bake the muffins in a new and attractive shape, but owing
to the corrugations representing the kernels of corn,
bake the muffins better than any other style of pan yet
devised. Well made of heavy cast iron. A booklet of
recipes and directions with each pan.

Sent, postpaid, for two (2) subscriptions Cash Price $1.50.

THE BOSTON COOKING - SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

319

AMERICAN COOKERY

TTOW quickly dirt vanishes under the
<*■ A foamy, bubbling suds of Ivory Soap.
And how fresh and white the new-washed
paint appears. No scratches nor spots nor
yellow streaks — because Ivory contains no
injurious free alkali nor any other harsh
ingredient. Ivory cleans quickly and thor-
oughly simply because it is such good,
soapy soap — as pure and mild and high-
grade as soap can be.

IVORY SOAP .

Use Ivory Soap for renovating the prized
possessions that a harsh soap would ruin.
For 40 years Ivory has been cleansing such
things as Oriental rugs, old paintings, fine
mahogany, enamel, gilded frames, statuary,
silken hangings and valuable bric-a-brac,
without injury either to material or finish.

Before you start your housedeaning for Thanksgiving and the
holidays, send for the free book Unusual Uses of Ivory Soap1''.
It tells how to dean everything, from wall paper to pianos,
in the way that experts dean them. Address Dept. 1 '- K,
The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, O.

0£S'lBl«TO»'*>a'9lll

"f FL®A^

99 ft* PURE

mmmm

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

320

ADVERTISEMENTS

WHAT DO YOU CHARGE FOR BOARD, SIR?

Painted by Edward V Brewer for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright by Cream of Wheat Co

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

321

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV

DECEMBER, 1919

No. 5

CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER

PAGE

PLAYHOUSES FOR CHILDREN. 111. . . Mary H. Northend 331
FRENCH MILLINERY IN THE KITCHEN. 111.

Blanche McManus 335

NUTS FOR UNCLE CORNELIUS Ida R. Fargo 338

CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS FROM EVERYWHERE

Marion Brownneld 341

THE DAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS IN NAPLES Mrs. I. N. Cutter 343

CHRISTMAS CAKES FROM LONG AGO . . Elizabeth Kimball 345

CHRISTMAS CAKES Alice Urquhart Fewell 347

OUT OF THE BASEMENT Helen C. Goodspeed 349

EDITORIALS 350

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone
engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 353

MENUS FOR WEEK IN DECEMBER . . " " " 362

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS ... " " 363

FOOD — AFTER THE WAR Florence M. LaGanke 364

SMALL CONVENIENCES FOR HOUSEWIVES Hazel B. Stevens 365
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Serving Kitchen Meals —
Keeping the Home Lights — Lemon Pie — ■ Fruit as a Saver of
Sugar — ■ A Christmas Party — Use of Honey in Bread-making —

The Quince — etc 367

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 371

NEW BOOKS 378

THE SILVER LINING 386

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave , Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

322

ADVERTISEMENTS

The highest-prized gift
is not always the

highest priced

Don't judge a gift by the money it costs, but rather by the pleasure it
gives, or the value attached to it for its usefulness or goodness.

Cook Books for instance: For 365 days in the year such a gift would be
a perpetual reminder of your good wishes, because of the constant use
made of it.

MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK

stands for all that is good and true in cooking. A big book of over 700
pages, containing some 1,500 recipes, abundantly illustrated. But listen!
bigness is not always goodness. In this case the recipes have been all
cooked into a dead certainty, so that mistakes cannot be made, if directions
are followed.

A Splendid Gift for any one to make or receive.

Bound in cloth, $2.50; by mail, $2.70

SOME OTHER RORER BOOKS— NOT EXPENSIVE

KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY DAINTIES

A new-plan cook book. Its very sim- Contains Appetizers. Canapes, Vegeta-

plicity recommends it. Saves time and ble and Fruit Cocktails, Cakes, Candies,
worry. Creamed Fruits, Desserts, Puddings, etc.

Cloth, $1.25; by mail, $1.40 Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

HOME CANDY MAKING

CAKES, ICINGS AND FILLINGS

Here is the book that shows how to

make it, if you want good, wholesome A large number of enticing and valuable

candy. recipes for cakes of all sorts.

Cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

A catalogue of Mrs. Rorer's boo\s sent on request

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

323

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR DECEMBER

Christmas Cakes ....

Christmas Cakes from Long Ago

Christmas Celebrations from Everywhere

Day Before Christmas in Naples, The

Editorials ....

Food — After the War

French Millinery in the Kitchen

Home Ideas and Economies

Menus

New Books

Nuts for Uncle Cornelius

Out of the Basement .

Playhouses for Children

Silver Lining, The

Small Conveniences for Housewives

PAGE

347
345
341

343
350
364
335
367
362, 363
378
338
349
331
386
365

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Batter, Fritter
Bowl, A Christmas
Brittle, Peanut

Buns, Philadelphia Butter. Ill
Cake, Gala, with Frosting. Ill
Canapes, Coquelin Style
Caramels, Walnut. 111.
Chicken a la King. Ill
Corn Balls. 111. .
Dressing, Salad
Filet Mignon. 111.
Fritters, Bacon
Fritters, Parsnip .
Fudge, Cherry-
Goose, Roast. 111. .

Bread, Whys in Baking
Brittle, Puffed Rice
Frosting, Glossy Boiled
Fudge, Plain and Divinity
Icing, Cooked and Uncooked
Icing, Fondant

356
359
360
357

359 <
353
329 '
354
360
356
355
356 -I
355

360 ]
354 j;

Grapes, Glace

Pancakes, Chicken

Pancakes, Potato .

Pie, Apple. 111.

Pralines, Creole

Pudding, Christmas Plum. 111.

Ring, Norwegian Birthday

Roll, Jelly ....

Salad, Apple-and-Celery. 111.

Salad, Chicken-and-Pineapple.

Sandwiches a l'lmperatrice

Soup, Cream of Chicken, for ten plates

Soup, Simple Tomato Bisque .

Tarts, Jelly. Jll

111.

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

374
371
376
376
372
374

Mincemeat .....
Mustard, Plain^and Stored .
Oleomargarine compared with Butter
Pie, Lemon, with Top Crust
Sauce, Chocolate ....
Sauce, Bittersweet

360
355
361
358
361
357
358
359
356
355
354
353
353
358

371
372
372
371
372
374

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

324

ADVERTISEMENTS

THE BOSTON COOKING
SCHOOL COOK BOOK

By^Fannie AIerritt Farmer

FOR many years the acknowledged
leader of all cook books, this New
Edition contains in addition to its
fund of general information, 2,117 re-
cipes, all of which have been tested at
Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking School;
together with additional chapters on
the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on
the Drying of Fruits and Vegetables,
and on Food Values.
J33 illustrations. 600 pages. $2.25 net

KITCHENETTE COOKERY

By Anna Merritt East

" T TERE the culinary art is trans-
O lated into the simplified terms
demanded by the requirements of
modern city life. The young wife who
studies the book carefully may be able
to save herself and her husband from
dining in restaurants. Aliss East,
formerly the New Housekeeping Ed-
itor of The Ladies' Home Journal,
presents a book which will be of great
value to all city dwellers." — -New
York Sun. Illustrated. $1.25 net

TABLE SERVICE

By Lucy G. Allen

A CLEAR, concise and yet com-
prehensive exposition of the wait-
ress' duties.

Recommended by the American
Library Association: — "Detailed di-
rections on the duties of the waitress,
including care of dining-room, and of
the dishes, silver and brass, the re-
moval of stains, directions for laying
the table, etc."

Fully illustrated. $1-35 net

OUR COMPLETE CATALOG OF COOK

COOKING FOR TWO

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

GIVES in simple and concise style
those things that are essential
to the proper selection and preparation
of a reasonable variety of food for the
family of two individuals. Menus for
a week in each month of the year are
included.

" 'Cooking for Two,' is exactly what
it purports to be — a handbook for
young housekeepers. The bride who
reads this book need have no fear of
making mistakes, either in ordering or
cooking food supplies." — Woman's
Home Companion.

With 150 illustrations. $i-7S net

THE PARTY BOOK

Invaluable to Every Hostess

By Winnifred Fales and

Mary H. North end

"TT contains a little of everything
JL about parties from the invitations
to the entertainment, including a good
deal about refreshments." — New York
Sun.

With numerous illustrations from pho-
tographs. $2.50 net

SALADS, SANDWICHES AND
CHAFING DISH DAINTIES

By Janet McKenzie Hill

"1% /TORE than a hundred different
1VA varieties of salads among the
recipes — salads made of fruit, of fish,
of meat, of vegetables, made to look
pretty in scores of different ways." —
Washington Times.

New Edition. Illustrated. $1.60 net

BOOKS WILL BE MAILED ON REQUEST

AT YOUR
BOOKSTORE

LITTLE, BROWN & CO., Publishers

BOSTON

MASS.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

325

AMERICAN COOKERY

ismggesrtton* for CJjrtetmag #tfts

WOULD not many of your friends to whom you will make Christmas Gifts
be more pleased with a year's subscription to AMERICAN COOKERY
($1.50) than with any other thing of equal cost you could send them?
The magazine will be of practical use to the recipient 365 days in the year
and a constant and pleasant reminder of the
donor. \

To make this gift more complete, we will I
send the December number so as to be received j
the day before Christmas, together with a card t
reading as per cut herewith. j

This card is printed in two colors on heavy ■
stock and makes a handsome souvenir.

Etjrcmijl) tip ktntaru at

Amrriran (Hookrrg

SHI br «rnt to gun fcr ant Qrsr rtnnmrartnc; nrilb, tijr
Brrrmbrr \a*nt. J& & & & &

We will make a Christmas Present of a copy of the American
Cook Book to every present subscriber who sends us two "Christmas
Gift" subscriptions at $1.50 each.

Practical and Useful Cookery Books

By MRS. JANET M. HILL, Editor of American Cookery

AMERICAN COOK BOOK $1.50

This cook book deals with the matter in hand in a simple, concise manner, mainly with the
cheaper food products. A cosmopolitan cook book. Illustrated.

BOOK OF ENTREES $1.60

Over 800 recipes which open a new field of cookery and furnish a solution of the problem
of "left overs." There is also a chapter of menus which will be of great help in securing
the best combination of dishes. Illustrated.

CAKES, PASTRY AND DESSERT DISHES $1.60

Mrs. Hill's latest book. Practical, trustworthy and up-to-date.

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY-MAKING $1.25

Modern methods of canning and jelly-making have simplified and shortened preserving
processes. In this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly-making are
presented.

COOKING FOR TWO $1.75

Designed to give chiefly in simple and concise style those things that are essential to the
proper selection and preparation of a reasonable variety of food for the family of two
individuals. A handbook for young housekeepers. Used as text in many schools.
Illustrated from photographs.

PRACTICAL COCKING AND SERVING $3.00

This complete manual of how to select, prepare, and serve food recognizes cookery as a
necessary art. Recipes are for both simple and most formal occasions; each recipe is
tested. 700 pages. Used as a text-book in many schools. Illustrated.

SALADS, SANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES $1.60

To the housewife who likes new and dainty ways of serving food, this book proves of
great value. Illustrated.

THE UP-TO-DATE WAITRESS $1.60

A book giving the fullest and most valuable information on the care of the dining-room
and pantry, the arrangement of the table, preparing and serving meals, preparing special
dishes and lunches, laundering table linen, table decorations, and kindred subjects. The
book is a guide to ideal service.

We will send any of the above books, postpaid, upon receipt of
price; or, add one dollar ($1) to the price of any of the books and we
will include a year's subscription for American Cookery.

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Walnut Caramels

Put two cups and one-half of granulated sugar,
three-fourths a cup of red-label Karo, half a cup of
butter, and one cup of rich milk over the fire to cook;
stir constantly and, after the mixture has boiled three
or four minutes, gradually add, while constantly stir-
ring, one cup and a half more milk; add the milk very
gradually, that the mixture may not stop boiling.
Cook, stirring frequently, to 248° F. Add one cup of
nut meats, broken in pieces, then one teaspoonful of
vanilla, and turn into two brick-loaf bread pans. When
nearly cold, unmold and cut in cubes.

329

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Q
D

Oh
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I— I

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D
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merican

Cook

VOL. XXIV

ery

DECEMBER

Playhouses for Children

By Mary Harrod Northend

Xo. 5

NOTHING is dearer to a child's heart
than a retreat which he can call
absolutely his own. Happily for
the boys and girls of the present day, the
old-fashioned idea that any place was good
enough to play in is no longer widely held.
Parents are fast coming to realize the
imperative need of play in a child's life,
and the advisability of making adequate
provision for it. For this purpose nothing
is better adapted than the playhouse, and
the constantly increasing number of these
miniature abodes, designed and built
expressly for the young people's enjoy-
ment, speaks well for its popularity.

Had such an innovation been suggested
in our grandmothers' days, it would,
doubtless, have been promptly frowned
upon and made the basis for a lecture on
spoiling children. As a matter of fact,
however, it has been proved in any number
of cases that, far from spoiling them, the
playhouse is most beneficial in its effects.

The pride of possessing a little domain of
this sort is one of the greatest incentives to
neatness and care that a child can possibly
have. The responsibility of keeping it in
order will work wonders in interesting
little maids even in the most prosaic duties
of housekeeping. And where is the boy
who will not take a far greater pleasure in
his carpentering, or electricity, or what-
ever his favorite hobby may be, if he has a
retreat where he can whittle and plane to
his heart's content, or invite his chums to
help try experiments, secure in the knowl-
edge that he will have no aftermath of
remonstrances to endure for having "clut-
tered up" the house or disturbed the rest
of the family?

The matter of choosing a playhouse is
not a difficult one, for there are many
types from which to select the one best
suited to the children's needs and the
parental purse. Nowhere can one find
more charming examples than in our own
country. Some are strictly Colonial in
design; others assume the form of a rustic
log cabin; while on some of the large
country estates more pretentious ones are
to be found, although it is doubtful if
they afford any more pleasure to their
little owners than those simpler in design
and equipment.

A most interesting playhouse is found
on the estate of Mr. Henry W. Shaw at
Magnolia. It is of the cottage type, lo-
cated at the very end of an old-fashioned
garden, overlooking the extensive grounds.

LOG PLAYHOUSE, DRAPER ESTATE, HOPEDALE

331

332

AMERICAN COOKERY

Across the front is a covered veranda,
equipped in the summer months as an
outdoor living-room, where numerous jolly
informal socials are held.

The entrance door, ornamented with a
tiny brass knocker, opens upon a diminu-
tive hallway, from one side of which
ascends a winding staircase. An old-
time hall lantern hangs from the staircase
beam and adds a touch of quaintness to a
pretty whole.

To the right opens the living-room,
twenty feet long by ten feet wide, at one
side of which is arranged a little open
fireplace, in which tiny logs are always
piled ready to be lighted.

To the left of the hallway is the kitchen.
Here is found a stove of medium size,
wheie the young cooks are able to bake
anything they desire to make, and along
one side of the wall is a dresser, fitted
with glass doors, which allow glimpses of
the dainty Dutch china stored within.
Directly opposite is a table and roomy
closet, and neatly arranged on hooks are
various pans and kettles. Rag mats cover
the hard-wood floor, and their cheery
colorings add a touch of brightness.

The second floor contains a single room,
fitted up by the owners for their own

special use, and, as can be imagined, it is a
typical girls' room. A dainty writing
desk, fully equipped with writing ma-
terials, occupies one end, while opposite
is a roomy couch piled high with downy
pillows. The walls are hung with posters
of every description, collected by the girls
at every opportunity. White muslin cur-
tains shade the broad windows and a pretty
art square covers the polished floor, while
all about are arranged comfortable chairs.

Not far from here, in the town of Man-
chester, is the playhouse on the Hoar
estate. It stands at the edge of a smooth-
shaven lawn, nearly surrounded by flower-
ing plants, and commands an extended
view of the well-kept grounds. All about
the rustic supports of the spacious en-
trance porch, within which are arranged
built-in seats, the vines of the rambler rose
clamber, affording a contrasting bit of
color to relieve the dull tones of the ex-
terior finish. The interior consists of a
single room, provided with all the com-
forts of playdom, and here numerous
parties, charades, and other amusements
take place.

At Nanepashemet, Massachusetts, on
the estate of Mr. Frank E. Peabody, is the
delightful playhouse designed after the

THE SHAW PLAYHOUSE AT MAGNOLIA, MASS.

CHILDREN'S PLAYHOUSES

333

THE PEABODY PLAYHOUSE AT NANEPASHEMET, MASS.

fashion of an English cottage, and pro-
vided with pretty latticed windows, which
open outward. It is situated on the slope
of a hill, not far from the main house, and
the shingled finish of its exterior, stained
dark red, with door and window trimmings
of pure white, contrasts well with the
varied greens of the surrounding lawns and
shrubbery.

The quaint entrance porch, almost
hidden by the vines of the crimson rambler,
gives access to a single large room, which
comprises the interior completely equipped
with tools and other appliances for manual
training. The walls are sheathed in pine,
and the floor of hard-wood is stained and
polished. Cosy chairs are placed about,
and two center tables furnish convenient
receptacles for books, etc.

From a discarded bath house was
evolved the playhouse of a little Salem
maid, and in its transformed state it is
charming and artistic. It stands on a
sloping bank that sweeps to the water's

edge, and across the front extends a wide
covered veranda. Broad paned windows
line the house on all sides, and at the rear
is a great door, with upper panel of glass.
The interior is characterized by a great
fireplace of brick, and in one corner, be-
tween two window spaces, is a large piano,
which furnishes music for the impromptu
dances which generally terminate the day's
frolic.

At Beach Bluff on the Paine estate, is
a fine Colonial building devoted to the
children's use. It nestles in a nook
among the apple trees; and at the front
and sides are spacious lawns furnishing
plenty of room for out-of-door sports.
Parallel to the long piazza is a well-kept
flower garden, which is a succession of
bloom from early spring until late autumn.

The exterior is painted white with dark
green blinds, and the entrance porch, of
pure Colonial design, is supported by
stout pillars. The interior has been
planned as a place where play life can be

334

AMERICAN COOKERY

A TREE PLAYHOUSE

enjoyed to the fullest extent, and there is
no "best furniture" to be careful of, lest
it be broken, no plaster walls to watch out
not to mar, and no carpets to fall over.
The furniture is of substantial oak, made
to fit the children, and the walls are of
plain studs and outside boarding, not even
painted, while the floor is devoid of cover-
ing of any sort. At one side of the main
room is a great brick fireplace and above
it extends a narrow mantel.

Beyond the living-room, two smaller
rooms open. One is used as a kitchen,
where the girls^of the household can cook
to their hearts' content, and the other is a
workship for the boys, equipped with
carpenter's bench and a full assortment of
tools.

Two attractive playhouses are located
at Cohasset. One is the rendezvous of a
family of boys, and the other is the posses-
sion of the small daughter of Mr. Gay.

The first one has exterior finish of
shingles, left to weather, with white
painted trim, and across the front and
rear extend broad uncovered verandas.
The interior consists of a single room,
fitted with serviceable furniture, and
numerous devices for boyish pleasures, and
the loft above affords storage space for
foot-balls, boxing-gloves, tennis racquets
and net, baseball bats, etc.

The second one is a four-room cottage,
fully equipped for housekeeping on a
small scale, with pretty latticed entrance
porch, provided with built-in seats.
Flowering shrubs have been planted about
the front and sides, and beneath the
windows are arranged window-boxes filled
with pretty plants.

THE PAINE PLAYHOUSE AT BEACH BLUFF, MASS.

THE LOUP

French Millinery in the Kitchen

Full Dress for Sea-Food as the Fretsxh
Chef Designs It

By Blanche McManus

PICTURE a fish with a rose in its
mouth! It gave me a perfectly
new sensation, the day I came into
the salle a manger at the luncheon hour, as
it gave me that open-mouth welcome
peculiar to the fish family from behind the
wind shield of a fine specimen of a la
France rose that even then did not fill
up the cavern.

uC,est un beau loup — rCest ce pas"
observed the garcon admiringly, as I
stopped by the table on which it reposed.
Yes, it was a magnificent example of this
kingly race of Mediterranean finny tribes
— the loup, thus called the wolf be-
cause of its rapaciousness in the chase of
its smaller briny subjects. It measured
quite three feet in length and rested on its
canape fully a foot and a half in height.
These grand proportions naturally scorned
the confines of the largest fish platter that
the establishment possessed, so its huge
bulk reposed on a linen-draped table, all

to itself, and formed an imposing center-
piece of dining-room decoration.

Large fish with us in America are not
usually considered so gastronomically
choice, but the loup of southern French
waters is an exception to all the rules

Gr«a r n »'s n ect uo l+fxT

335

336

AMERICAN COOKERY

Sprinfeleciunffo »— *
minced Jiar& £>££,!
Crossed loitrtujo'

_£eai>es.
" (-fu.ffsi3e)

which otherwise govern sea-food and com-
poses itself into as choice a plat de poisson,
when of large size as when but a few
inches in length.

But it was the magnificence of its
garniture that gave this superb fish the
magic to draw the guests of the hotel
around it to pay their compliments before
seating themselves at their own tables.
It formed an admirable pattern mode of
the art of the French chef as applied to the
preparation of food.

This was but the full-dress rehearsal.
The loup was there to be admired during
the period of dejeuner, to whet our appe-
tites, so to say, and was only to be served
at dinner that night. Consequently it
was fresh out of the water and not yet
tried by fire, though bedecked modishly
and wonderfully for the feast. Its rosy
mouthpiece was but the crowning touch
to its otherwise elaborate costume.

The loup has an enormously large head,
from which its body slopes away in wedge-
like fashion to a ridiculously tiny bob-
tail. In color it is an iridescent steely
blue, with white about the head, and
gills spread out like polished, miniature
ivory fans, which from a fishy point of
view were considered J very handsome
indeed.

There were other roses garlanded over
the loupes backbone, pink, white, and red,
looping over its plump sides as well as
being scattered about like votive offerings
all around the table.

Alternating with the flowers were more
materialistic garnitures, incidentally for
ornament, but actually forming a part
of the "fixings." These were lemons,
peeled so meticulously, and with such
calibrated regularity, that their yellow
skins formed long, graceful spirals. One
end of these spirals was left attached to
the peeled lemons, and these in turn
formed a rampart around the fish itself.
The other ends of the golden spiral stair-
way (if one may be permitted to grow
poetic) were carried up the shiny flanks of
the loup and held in place by slices of
lemon, which buttoned themselves, as it
were, down the generous backbone. It
was a chef-d'oeuvre of the painstaking
care that a French cook only can be
counted to bestow upon cuisine millinery.

This slice of lemon had its thin rim of
skin still green; indeed, the lemon, or
citron as the French call it, is most often
used thus, its cooking flavor being con-
sidered more delicate. It was divided into
quarters, one of which was heaped up with
minced beet-root, another with minced
carrots, a third with chopped olives, and
the fourth with minced, hard-boiled eggs.
On top of each was a thin slice of a red
radish and as many as five green peas
posed in the center of the slice of lemon,
which joined up the four quarters. Each
slice was then powdered with a dust of
herbs — parsley, thyme, and estragon.

I have gone thus into details, because
this was a particular example of culinary
art, only to be compared with a miniature
in the art of the painter. It was con-
ceived with a painstaking minutiae that

A PLAT OF MOULES

FRENCH MILLINERY IN THE KITCHEN

337

was both amusing and interesting, and
represented the result of some hours'
labor — and only to be looked at. For
this reason I have thought that others
should see this picture of a full-dress
fish-function. Hence this true big-fish
story.

This culinary fashion display took place
in just an ordinary country resort hotel of
France, but an establishment by no means
of the rank of those that are classed as
"Palaces." A hotel in France has re-
ceived its highest patent of hotel nobility
when it placards the word "Palace" be-
fore its legitimate baptismal name and
henceforth blooms forth in the classifica-
tion of five stars. This hotel of the big
loup, however, is not of this class, but one
where, in these days of mountainous
living charges, en pension terms may still
be had for twelve or fourteen francs a
day, which at the present rates of dollar
exchange in this year of Peace and Con-
cord (sic) is less than a dollar and a half
at the low figure.

That night for dinner we ate the loup,
boiled, with a white wine sauce, for all
big loups are boiled when served up.
It proved delicious and was decidedly
not a case of the dress making the fish.
It was quite the star of the performance
that its rose-decked mouth had promised.
Americans will remark that it was not
resting on a bed of ice awaiting the torture
of the boiling process. The French never
freeze fish when it can be got locally near to
where it is caught, or even farther away.
The French cordon bleu will tell you that
extreme cold is as bad for fish flesh as
extreme heat. The gourmet declares that
the merest chilling of fish destroys its
sea-food flavor immediately and renders
it almost tasteless. For this reason, too,
oysters are not served on a cushion of
cracked ice. The French are right, par-
ticularly when the fish comes directly out
of the sea before our eyes, as this did.
When it comes from the water it is ready
to be eaten. Why freeze, or even chill,
its marrow?

There was another opening day in sea-

food styles when a big, red langouste
played the role of the chef's mannequin.
The langouste belongs to that family of
Crustaceans, which embraces also the
lobster and the prawn, but is much more
meaty than the former, also more tender.
It resembles a lobster deprived of its
weapons, as it is minus the two large,
red front nippers. Instead, it has two
rows of smaller claws that one may crack
readily with the fingers and extract a
delicate sort of a fishy marrow on the end
of a two-tined fork.

This particular langouste, though of
magnificent proportions, could still be
accommodated upon the hotel's most
extensive platter. There was no dress
rehearsal for it as in the case of the loup.
It was brought to the table ready to be
served and eaten as the first course of
dejeuner. It appeared in full-dress re-
galia; ruddy and cold, boiled, rearing
proudly its two long attenna, to each of
which was attached a streamer of blue
ribbon, which, like a pair of reins, checked
up its head and was carried back and
tied in a bunchy bow around its tail.

The meat had been taken out and the
shell left intact and neatly closed up again.
The meat was then sliced in strips about
three inches long and laid in a row down
the langouste }s back. Over the slices
were sprinkled fine-minced, hard-boiled
eggs. The French chef greatly uses eggs
in minced form as a garnish, though he
may sometimes go to the other extreme
and serve them whole; rarely, though, is
there any juste milieu between these two
methods.

The finishing touch to each slice of the
langouste meat was two, small, fresh-
gathered, pointed estragon leaves, the
whole powdered over with chopped as-
sorted herbs. As a framing, around the
rim of the platter was a wreath of green
herbs, alternating with rows of black and
green olives, the black olives, large and
wrinkled and briny, the green, of the
picholine variety, smaller and nearly cres-
cent-shaped.

With the langouste was served an

338

AMERICAN COOKERY

olive oil mayonnaise, of the virgin oil of
Old Provence, tinted a salmon pink with
the juice of fresh tomatoes, giving both a
unique and colorful flavor.

Another example of food fashions as
designed in France: This time it is the
plain, plebeian moule or mussel, which in
contrast to their humble family history are
almost invariably dressed up in the
chic-est of fashions. The moule may
make a plat which ranks very high among
the recherche culinary chef (Tceuvres of

Concluded

France. Especially is this so on the
Mediterranean coast, where it has attained
a high popularity with both gourmets
and gourmands. The sea moules, or mus-
sels, are boiled, in the process of which the
purple shells burst open and display the
brilliant orange-colored meat behind the
folding doors of its house in which it was
born and has always lived. There is no
such thing known as shelling a moule,
if one wishes to preserve its flavor, at
least not before they are cooked.
on page 361

Nuts for Uncle Cornelius

By Ida R. Fago

ABBIE ANDREWS was enjoying
a week-end away from the pol-
ished primness of a certain law
office in Portland, where she spent most
of her time as expert stenographer — a
week-end down at Aunt Janie's, always
an enjoyable event to anticipate, as
any one who visited at Champoeg could
testify. Aunt Janie lived at Champoeg,
and Champoeg was almost, but not quite,
a suburb of Portland.

On this particular evening Abbie sat,
Turk fashion, before a dancing fire in the
monstrous fireplace built by the Master
of the House out of rude stones found
on the river's bank, such a fireplace as
might cost a fabulous sum tucked into
some places one might mention. But
at Aunt Janie's it was merely a part of a
big hospitable house. And it hadn't cost
very much because Uncle Cornelius
Judd (Aunt Janie's jovial mate) had
buill it himself. And the materials were
a part of his very own farm. Truly,
luxury may be a matter of locality —
plus a certain amount of intelligent
industry; but one needs to discover the
particular luxury, perhaps, which is
indigenous to one's own particular lo-
cality. Why not? However this may
be, Abbie was certainly enjoying the
firelight, and looking her prettiest in a

little gingham gown that subtracted a
quota of years and left her all too girlish,
any one would guess, to be the expert
stenographer of a prominent city law firm.

"That little gingham gown is the most
becoming thing you've got," asserted
Aunt Janie on one occasion.

"Why — it's the simplest little dress,"
objected Abbie.

"Maybe that's the reason," shrewdly
suggested Aunt Janie. And then, "It's
just like your Uncle 'Nelius says, 'cording
to my way of thinking, a woman ain't
half as pretty dolled up for a party as she
is in a pretty-planned house dress."

"Why — !" wondered Abbie Andrews,
but she put the thought away for future
consideration.

And, it is certain, any one would admit,
who saw Abbie sitting there in the fire-
light, Turk fashion, a flush on her cheeks,
her brown braids wound about her head,
and her nimble fingers busy cracking
hazelnuts, that she was a pretty girl.
Perhaps a pretty house dress had some-
thing to do with it. It often does.

"What you cracking 'em for?"

Cousin John, coming in from outside,
dropped with a sort of lazy comfort into
a big rocker, and leaning over, elbows on
his knees, peered into the bowl of plump
hazelnut meats.

NUTS FOR UNCLE CORNELIUS

339

"Nut cake," grinned Abbie.

"Too many," answered John.

Evidently Aunt Janie, having no
daughters, had trained up her sons to
help in the house during the idle hours
of Oregon's long, rainy days. Evidently
John knew that a bowlful of hazelnut
meats were all too many for an ordinary
nut cake.

Cousin Abbie's eyes twinkled.

"Just watch," she said.

With a long-handled poker and a
long-handled shovel, she deftly lifted
from a bed of ashes under a bed of coals
a row of perfectly roasted potatoes; as
perfectly roasted as potatoes may be
when cooked in the ashes. And, very
likely since the world began, there are
those who believe no better way of
cooking potatoes has ever been invented,
be it a bonfire outdoors or a big fireplace
where the cooking is done.

"Gee!" sniffed Cousin John. "Just
call me. I'm ready for supper any
time."

"Wait a minute," instructed Abbie.

No more than a minute she was gone,
but in that minute one heard the whir
of the kitchen food grinder. Then Abbie
was back with a spoon, a clean bowl, a
little salt, a bit of butter, and a cup of
ground-up hazelnut meats. Picking up
a hot potato with a well-folded tea-towel,
she proceeded carefully to dust it of
ashes, then broke it apart, scooped the
fluffy white contents into the clean bowl,
added salt, butter, and a spoonful of the
ground nut meats. This done, she refilled
the potato skins, pressed the parts to-
gether again, and deposited the finished
potato on the well-swept hearth in front
of the hot fire. It was all done so swiftly
that Cousin John sat with his mouth
agape and his question unasked when the
task was finished.

And then — "Well, I vum!" is what he
said. And not another word till a row
of nutty-meated potatoes stood heating
before the fire. Abbie Andrews had the
nimble fingers one needs who succeeds
best in the art of cookery.

"Know what you make me think of?"
questioned John.

"What?" People liked Abbie because
she always played up to their queries.

"A song mother sings, used to sing

it to us kids when we were little shavers,

I remember.

'"She can make a cherry pie,
Quick's a cat can wink his eye.'

Judging by the way you fill those pota-
toes, that's about the time you'd take to
make a cherry pie. Or any other kind."

John chuckled.

" Nutty potatoes. That's a new one on
me. But I'll bet a dollar they're good."

"They are," smiled Aunt Janie, coming
into the room. "Abbie and I tried 'em
out the other night, while you men-
folk were at lodge. Now come on to
supper. It's ready."

Deftly John swept the hot potatoes into
the dish his mother handed him.

"And we're all ready for it," he an-
nounced. "And as hungry as a penful
of pigs."

Every one laughed. Because every one
was light-hearted and laughter was in the
air, and good-humor as contagious as
chicken pox. Why not?

"Nutty potatoes and nut cake — ■"
questioned John presently, turning again
toward his cousin as the family sat
about the supper table. "Anything else
you can do with nuts?"

" Toast 'em," affirmed Abbie.

(Somehow, Abbie Andrews never
wasted words. It gave a piquancy to
her speech. " It is the business-woman
habit," she once explained to a comment-
ing friend. " A girl can never succeed
in business if she talks too much.")

"Toast 'em — ?" echoed the family.

"Put the nuts in a shallow dripping
pan with a bit of butter, or butter sub-
stitute, sprinkle with salt, and toast in
a hot oven. It doesn't take long and they
are delicious. I've tried hazelnuts and
walnuts. Maybe other kinds would be
good, too."

"Tell them about your hazelnut loaf,"
said Aunt Janie. "My men-folks are

340 AMERICAN COOKERY

always interested in cookery," proudly, tented anyhow. And anywhere. She's

"Most men ain't." that kind," attested John. But the

"Then they don't know which side smile in his eyes was the kind of a smile

their bread is buttered on," chuckled mothers love to see.

Uncle Cornelius. "You boys stop your arguing," chided

Abbie turned upon him questioning Aunt Janie.

eyes, big, brown, and curious. Just now, "And give Abbie a chance to analyze

especially curious. Hazelnut Loaf," added her husband.

"If nobody takes any interest in your "Well — !" said Abbie. She drew a

job, you're apt to get tired on it," ex- long breath, by way of beginning. "It

plained the Man of the House. "Pretty goes this way:

apt to grow discontented, now wouldn't "One cup of hazelnuts, ground up in

you? Maybe, be a sort of a slacker, the food chopper, either toasted or not;

'Less you loved 'art for art's sake.'" two cups of bread crumbs, rolled slightly;

Twinkles danced across Cornelius Judd's one large cup of skim milk, plus a good

eyes. "If a body is an expert, a body lump of butter; one teaspoonful of salt,

likes to know it. Likes to have other good sprinkle of pepper, one teaspoonful

folks know it, too. Likes to be told of it, of baking powder; two eggs; mix thor-

come now'n then. Likes to be appre- oughly. Pour into a greased tin and

ciated, some'ut. Noticed, sort of." bake about half an hour."

"Your uncle likes to talk," chided "Sounds good," commented John.

Aunt Janie. "When you going to make it, Abbie?"

"More'n talk to what I'm saying," queried Uncle Cornelius,

asseverated the big, jovial, elderly man. "Tomorrow," said Abbie Andrews.

"Sound sense. Most men don't know it. Aunt Janie nodded assent, and turned to

Cookery is a woman's job. Specially her men-folks.

home cookery. Big job, too. Most men, "Aren't you glad now that you took
as I said, don't know it, they think their that half-day holiday I insisted on? — to
own job the only thing on earth, and they gather hazelnuts? — They went across the
want their women-folk to think the same river to the hills, Abbie. The hazel-
thing — they sort of like to talk about nuts were thick this year. Plenty for the
the big things they are doing, and never chipmunks and men-folks, too. I told
take the time to be really interested in 'em the farm wouldn't run off if they took
what their women-folk are having to do. a little rest. The haying was over and
So their women-folk get dissatisfied, the Crawfords hadn't come on yet."
and want to do something men consider "Peaches," interpolated John, looking
real work. So here comes the war and at his cousin. "Early Crawfords; the
gives women a chance to gobble up the new acreage is all set out to Early Craw-
men-jobs. And, by Jove, they do it. fords."

Do it good, too. And now a lot of the "I reckon Abbie knows Early Craw-
women want to keep on with men-jobs, fords is peaches," chuckled John's father,
cause they've got to thinking — same's And then his glance went round to his
their men-folk — -that men-jobs is the only wife. " I 'member that day the boys went
kind of worthwhile work that the world nutting. I wa'n't to home. They 'lowed
holds. Men to blame, too, say I." I wouldn't stand for any gallivanting

A ripple of laughter went round the about the country, letting farm work go;

table. l?ut ma, here, did want them nuts.

"Dad's theory," drawled Cousin John. She was a little anxious when I hove in

"Look what a contented woman it has and the boys not home. I see that,

made out of your mother," verified Dad. But, pshaw! Might 'a' known I wouldn't

"Mother — ? Oh, mother'd be con- made a fuss. I always did agree to 'Ail

CHRISTMAS IDEAS AND CELEBRATIONS

341

work and no play makes Jack a dull
boy.' And what's a belief good for if a
body don't live up to it?"

Father Judd's eyes twinkled around
the table. He always had a bit of phi-
losophy for every occasion; or, if need
be, he could make an occasion to fit his

bit of philosophy. And Abbie thor-
oughly enjoyed it.

"Makes Jill a dull girl, too," she added.
"Next year Aunt Janie and I are going
to lay off and go nutting, too. Aren't
we, Aunt Janie?"

"We are," said Aunt Janie Judd.

Christmas Ideas and Celebrations from

Everywhere

By Marion Brownfield

MANY of us would like new and
effective ways of celebrating
Christmas, befitting the new order
of peace and good-will that has come to
mankind. Sometimes, in the last few
decades, it has been with Christmas cele-
brations, a case of

"The world is too much with us: late and soon
Getting and spending we lay waste our powers."

Instead of so much gift-giving, a revival
of some of the beautiful and dignified old-
time ceremonies that make the significance
of the season more vivid might have our
consideration. The various customs of
foreign lands, at different periods of
history, perhaps will suggest new ways
to us of borrowing or adapting an idea that
will celebrate Christmas this year, either
at home, or in public places, with such
picturesque beauty that a new spirit of
service, rather than gift-barter, will appeal
to us.

Christmas, as the holiday that cele-
brates the nativity of Christ, was orig-
inally celebrated in very early spring, but
as most all the nations of medieval Europe
regarded the winter solstice as the turning-
point of the year, when nature began a
renewed life, the custom gradually de-
veloped of celebrating this Christian holi-
day in the period during what is now the
last of December and the first of January.

In Norway, the winter solstice was
the time for holding a Yule feast origi-
nally in celebration of a pagan god, and

among the Scandinavians, the Yule log
and the Yule cake were among the ob-
servances of Yuletide, that was a season of
rejoicing and visiting.

In England, Christmas celebrations of
three or four hundred years ago charm
us with their quaint and simple jollity.
The English always remembered every
one from their neighbors down to their
servants. "In the country, an English
gentleman always invited his neighbors and
tenants to his great hall at daybreak on
Christmas morning. There they were
regaled upon toast, sugar, nutmeg and
good old Cheshire cheese." The house
was decked with ivy and other greens.

Under the title of a "Christmas box,"
the general English custom, which still
prevails to some extent, a small gift of
money was given to postmen and other
delivery men the day after Christmas,
which was called "Boxing Day."

In 1100 Henry I. granted a charter to
London, making it a city, and the Christ-
mas celebration, it is recorded, consisted
of a feast for rich and poor. The people
gathered in the streets around blazing
bonfires singing and dancing, after feasting
upon oxen, deer, ale, and mead. The
wassail bowl, spoken of so often in many
books describing England at the time of
the crusades, was another evidence of the
ever-ready hospitality that the English
offered to all comers.

Christmas music in England was de-

342

AMERICAN COOKERY

lightful carols sung on Christmas Eve,
and sometimes early Christmas morning,
on the doorsteps by bands of children and
young folks called "waits," who were re-
warded at the end of the program with
money or gifts, or an invitation to enter and
feast.

Many of the celebrations, strange as it
may seem, consisted of superstitious test-
ings of fortune, similar to those now prac-
ticed at Halloween. Attempts to forecast
love, marriage, and good luck for the
household, during the coming year, were
all among the entertainments of the season
in old-time England. An old rhyme that
has come down to us, which prophesies in
this fashion, is this one —

A MONDAY1CHRISTMAS

"If Christmas day on Monday be,
A great winter that year you'll see
And full of winds both loud and shrill;
But in summer, truth to tell,
High winds shall there be, and strong,
Full of tempests lasting long,
While battles, they shall multiply
And great plenty of beasts shall die.
They that be born that day, I ween,
They shall be strong each one and keen — "

The origin of the Christmas tree has
never been fully determined. Some de-
clare it Norse, because in the Northern
mythology a certain "world-tree" typified
existence; others declare the Christmas
tree was used to celebrate the Roman
saturnalia, a December festival for all
classes, and was imported into Germany
with the conquering legions of Drusus.
But it is interesting to know that the
Christmas tree "with its dependent toys
and mannikins is distinctly portrayed by
Virgil," the Roman poet. The symbolism
of the evergreen tree is interpreted "with
its lights and fruits, the symbol of
Christ who was the beginning of new life,

in the midst of wintry darkness of hea-
thendom, and the immortality of life."
The candlelights also symbolized the
light that came into the world with the
birth of Christ. The gold thread that is
entwined as decoration on some Christmas
trees is called lametta and represents
the golden locks of the Christ-child.
The star is the emblem of the Star in the
East that guided the shepherds of Bethle-
hem.

In Norway, sheaves of wheat, to tie on
shutters or roof-poles to feed the birds,
are sold on the streets just as holly wreaths
are sold in the United States. Isn't this
a thoughtful decoration for the home?

In Brazil, Christmas is celebrated in the
home in a fashion that brings to mind the
Three Wise Men. An altar — sometimes
the staircase — ■ is covered with fine linen.
On the top is placed the Christ-child in a
cradle, and below are placed the choicest
gifts of the soil, "to show that the first
fruits and best fruits should be His."
Spices and myrrh, clusters of all kinds of
fruit and rice and other grains deck this
altar. The church steps are covered
with spice leaves to make the steps fra-
grant when walked upon, and at night
there is a Christmas celebration | with
— fireworks !

Perhaps, with our own new custom of
Christmas trees in public squares or parks
in some of our large cities, where some
great singer freely gives beautiful music
appropriate to the season, we are not far
away from such a celebration with fire-
works, strange as the idea may seem, at
first, for fireworks lighting the heavens
may easily take the form of Christmas
symbols, and surely such a celebration is
one that many — rich and poor — can
enjoy!

The Day Before Christmas in Naples

By Mrs. I. N. Cutter

LOOKING over Naples from her high lighted brazier. Here and there, one
places on this twenty-fourth day of comes upon a mass of feathers left from a
December, one sees no smoke to recently prepared fowl — tomorrow's din-
obscure her picturesqueness, for fires, ner, and from an upper window a woman
excepting of charcoal, are infrequent, empties into the street such leaves as may
Mosses are green on ridges; flowers and not be included in the salad. On every
grasses, self-sown, nod on each ledge or hand is refuse, picturesqueness, and good
peep from crevices of the old stucco walls of cheer.

stained yellow or faded pink; and in It is in the side streets of the lower city,
gardens the December crop of oranges and which belong to vanishing Naples, that
mandarins hangs golden among glossy the scenes are most distinctive. Here,
leaves. The morning has been sunny, where the narrow streets are without side-
but just now the sky is hidden, the sun walks and the cautious Neapolitan donkeys,
sending a single shaft of light through a carrying bulging panniers or drawing tiny
break in the clouds, making a line of iri- carts, divide the way with foot passengers,
descent salmon on a silver sea, while one finds a dense crowd. What delightful
Capri has become but a cloud on the patches of color the fruit and vegetable
horizon and Vesuvius, gray-veiled, looks stalls make in the dark streets! Oranges,
more than ever mysterious. mandarins, lemons, red and yellow apples,
Up from the city, in violent contrast are arranged in gay pyramids; and there
to nature's quiet, comes a volume of are tawny potatoes, vigorous-hued car-
sound formed of the rattle of wheels, the rots, sheaths of vivid green beans, red
cracking of whips, the clatter of hoofs, the cabbages, borders of purple cauliflowers,
harsh cries of drivers, the lusty voices of festoons of miniature yellow tomatoes and
hawkers, the music of street musicians, of peppers; and among the marketers
the scolding of women, the chatter of moves the "Onion Boy," wearing long
children, — strident, vital, intensely hu- garlands of gold, silver, bronze, and rose,
man, — -where but in Naples can its like all made from gleaming onions. Here,
be heard? And it draws one down to the too, are hand-carts piled with nuts, and
streets to mingle, with a sense of exhilara- donkey carts filled with huge pine cones
tion, with the vivid life below. from the countryside. One may pur-
The characteristic life of Naples is chase the cones entire or buy the kernels,
lived in the streets. The broad doorways which have been abstracted and boiled,
of the houses, supplying both light and and are a seasonable treat to the poor,
air, stand open, and within are men and Occasionally, one comes upon a small stall
women busy at their day's tasks or seated formed of a board resting upon an up-
at table taking the meal of the hour, turned box, at which cigar stubs, gathered
indifferent to passers-by. In some of the from the streets, are grouped according to
houses a fire is burning on the stone size and offered for sale, a given number
floor near the door, about which children for a soldo — one-tenth of a penny.
are playing; in front of others a fire has The distinctive Christmas sweetmeat is
been built in the flagged street and is of boiled sugar and chopped almonds. This
surrounded by chatting neighbors; and, is skillfully formed into a remarkable
occasionally, one passes a house before variety of pretty or grotesque shapes and is
which the future meal is steaming over a seen, on this day before Christmas, borne

343

344

AMERICAN COOKERY

proudly through the streets in wooden
trays on the head of the sweet-cook's boy.

But the great dish of December 24th
is fish, and for days the water-side has
been crowded with people watching the
arrival of the small fishing boats, which are
such a pretty feature of the Bay, and
which have come in heavily laden. As one
nears those streets converted into fish
markets for the day, the cries of the
vendors form an appalling chorus. More
than fifty fish stalls appear in one short
side street, and at each stall two and three
men are shouting the wares as continu-
ously as nature will permit, one catching
up the cry when another drops it through
weariness. The fish are displayed in flat
baskets or alive in basins of water. Every
variety of color and form in small fish
held by the Mediterranean seems repre-
sented here, from lovely goldfish, a Nea-
politan delicacy, to weird creatures un-
namable and, one would prefer to think,
unedible. The proper fish of the day,
however, is eel, and eels are offered on
every hand in writhing freshness.

Adding to the confusion of sounds are
the voices of exhilarated and dramatic
marketers, punctuated by remonstrances
from the chief feature in tomorrow's
feast, the chicken, being carried home
through the jostling crowd.

The Via Roma, as we enter it, is a mass of
people, through which a current of pedes-
trians and carriages is with difficulty
kept moving by the yellow-buttoned
Guardie. On either side the street is
lined today with stalls offering gifts for
sale, about which press humble pur-
chasers. They are very appealing, these
gifts of the poor, china trinkets and gay
little cards, for which men and women are
spending their few soldi.

Flowers are everywhere, abundant and
cheap, else were it not Italy. By voices,
harsh with much calling of gentle wares,
are offered camellias, carnations, yellow
roses, violets, candytuft, mignonette; and
as we fill our hands with these we find in
their familiar sweetness a link between the
novel scenes about us and the dear, accus-
tomed Christmas of home.

Tre

asures

The common things in life are all so dear;

The moon's soft rays that through the leaves
doth shine,
The morning's sun on glistening waves so clear,

The clouds of gorgeous hue, are mine and thine.

The memories dear that come to us at quiet hour,
The dreams we have that do not all come true,

The songs we love, a book in shaded bower,
These priceless gifts are all for me, for you.

The friends we've loved and love may have
departed,
Some gone ior aye, still memory holds them
dear,
The partings left us sad and broken-hearted,
The twilight shades of evening bring them
near.

When all is hushed and peace to us is given,
We dream our dreams and build our castles
fair,
While through the turmoil of the day we've
striven,
The evening brings us surcease from all care.

— Edith Louise Farrell.

Christmas Cakes of Long Ago

By Elizabeth Kimball

THE hostess, who is looking for
something novel to serve during
the Christmas festivities and
whose patriotism would demand that it
be typically American, cannot do better
than turn back to her ancestors' re-
cipes for Christmas cakes. Crisp and
dainty, they were always to be found in
plenty at the great family gatherings
both North and South.

For Christmas there were sure to be
"Plumb Cakes," while the housewife who
was especially thrifty took the precaution
to make "Little Plumb Cakes to keepe
long." Then there were "Spanish Bis-
cuit," and, for the sake of neutrality,
"Portugese Cakes." The New Year
was ushered in with bowls of milk
punch and pitchers of eggnog, accom-
panied by seed cakes and the great
"New Year's Cake" made in honor of
the day.

In many families these recipes have
been handed down from generation to
generation as cherished heirlooms, to be
used only at this time of the year. In
the majority of cases, however, such
recipes have been lost or neglected during
the passage of the years, and Christmas
comes and goes without its proper share
of little cakes. Any one, who has had
an opportunity of tasting these sweets in
the homes where they are still made, will
welcome the chance of making them and
of adding an element of novelty to the
usual Christmas menu.

The true spirit of Christmas can be
gained only if one personally directs the
making of these little cakes. While it is
no longer possible to emulate the thrifty
housewives of bygone days to the
extent of having half a dozen pick-
aninnies seeding raisins, slicing citron,
and stemming "ye raisins of ye sun,"
there is still a great deal of pleasure to be

derived from the preparation of these
dainties. The present-day housewife who
envelops herself in a big apron, mixes,
cuts cookies and bakes to her heart's
content, will feel more of the real Christ-
mas spirit and find more joy in giving — ■
if the gifts are the result of her handiwork
— than if she were to spend thrice as
many hours haunting the shops.

Among some people there is, unfortu-
nately, an impression that colonial cook-
ery means inaccurate, extravagant re-
cipes. How false this is, any one who
has given serious study to the old cook-
books will be eager to testify. The
supposed opulence of our ancestors'
tables has possibly helped to create thic
idea. It must not be forgotten, how-
ever, that they were cooking for families
and dependents two or three times the
number of those of today. When re-
duced and given the proper proportions,
their quaint old dishes have a charm and
flavor which few things of today can-
rival.

The first baking to which the house-
wife would turn her attention was the
"Little Plumb Cakes" with their promise
to "keepe long." For these she used
the following recipe.

"Little Plumb Cakes"

4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
1 cup butter
1 teaspoonful mixed
spices

3 eggs

5 pound currants
5 teaspoonful salt
5 pound seedless rais-
ins

Mix the flour, sugar, spices, and salt
together. Beat the butter to a cream;
add eggs, well beaten, raisins, currants,
and flour mixture. Beat well for ten
minutes. If properly mixed and beaten,
this will form a stiff paste. Dredge
flour on tin baking sheets and drop
batter the size of a walnut on them.
Bake in a brisk oven.

345

346

AMERICAN COOKERY

The following recipe for seed cakes
dates from the year 1700, but the cen-
turies which have passed since then have
robbed the little cakes of none of their
deliciousness.

Seed Cakes

English Cakes

1 cup butter

2 cups sugar
4 eggs

^ cup rosewater

3 drops oil of cinna-
mon

£ cup boiling water

3 tablespoonfuls car-
away seed

4 cups flour

\ teaspoonful saler-

atus

teaspoonful salt

Wash the butter in rosewater, cream,
and add sugar. Beat the eggs well and
add to the first mixture with the spices
(three-fourths a teaspoonful of powdered
cinnamon may be substituted for the oil)
and soda dissolved in the hot water.
Add flour and, if necessary, a little milk
to form a stiff paste. Drop on buttered
paper in lumps the size of nutmegs.
Bake in a moderate oven.

For the " great cake" which the season
demands, cider cake will form a pleasant
variation from the usual fruit loaf —
while those who insist on their "plums"
may add a cup of raisins and currants
to the recipe. Our forefathers of 1796
made their cider cake in the following
manner.

Cider Cake

1 teaspoonful soda

1 cup cider

1 teaspoonful cinna-
mon and allspice,
mixed

3 cups flour

2 cups sugar
1 cup butter

3 eggs
y teaspoonful salt

Mix flour, sugar, salt, and spices to-
gether. Work in the butter until no
lumps remain. Add the eggs, well
beaten, and the cider in which the soda
has been dissolved. The dough should
be fairly stiff. Bake in a moderate
oven. Cover with a brown sugar frost-
ing.

By 1800 the colonists had forgotten
their grudge against the mother country
sufficiently to indulge in "English Cakes"
for Christmas — and to enjoy them!

1 cup sugar
1 cup butter
3 eggs

^ teaspoonful grated
nutmeg

4 cups flour

^ pound currants

| teaspoonful salt

Sour cream

1 cup walnut meats

Cream the butter; add sugar, spice,
salt, and eggs, well beaten. Stir in the
currants, nuts, and, alternately, the
flour and sufficient sour cream to form
a stiff dough. Drop from a spoon on
pans lined with buttered paper. Bake
in a hot oven. If preferred, they may be
rolled out and cut in fancy shapes.

Spanish Biscuits were considered a
great delicacy about 1825, when they
were always served with Portugal Cakes.

Spanish Biscuit

4 eggs

4 tablespoonfuls sifted

sugar
4 tablespoonfuls flour

Separate the eggs and beat the yolks
twenty minutes. Add the sugar gradu-
ally. Fold in the stiffly-beaten whites,
then the flour and lemon peel. Drop
by spoonfuls on buttered paper and bake
in a quick oven.

Portugal Cakes

j teaspoonful salt
Grated rind of 1

lemon

2 cups flour
1 cup sugar

1 cup butter

2 tablespoonfuls rose-
water

i eggs

3 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
\ pound currants
§ teaspoonful salt

Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and
baking powder. Rub the butter into it
until it is the consistency of grated
bread. Add currants, well-beaten eggs,
and rosewater. Bake in a loaf in a
moderate oven.

"Pepper Cakes," which we moderns
would be likely to designate by the milder
term of "Honey Cakes," were always a
Christmas favorite. The following re-
cipe was used in the old world in 1743
before it was brought to America.

Honey Cakes

1 cup sugar
If cups honey
1 teaspoonful cloves
| teaspoonful ginger
1 teaspoonful cinna-
mon

\ teaspoonful salt
\ teaspoonful nutmeg
\ teaspoonful pepper
1 teaspoonfu1 anise
If cups xyo fioui
\\ cups wheat flour

CHRISTMAS CAKES

347

Sift together spices, salt, and flour.
Put honey and sugar in a pan and let
the mixture boil up. Then pour it on
the flour mixture and stir until a thick
dough is formed. If necessary, add more

honey or flour until the paste is stiff
enough to roll. Roll into small balls
and bake in a moderate oven. When
cool, dip each ball separately in a thin
white frosting.

Christmas Cakes

By Alice Urquhart Fewell

AS the Holidays draw near again
the busy housewife begins to
turn her thoughts towards
(Christmas sweets and goodies, for Christ-
mas would not be complete for the
kiddies without the usual cakes and
candies which mother is sure to prepare.
What kind of cakes shall we have this
year? This question is being asked in
many homes, and the answer to it may
be found, in part at least, in the sugges-
tions that follow. Here are several
new cake recipes, and two attractive
and unusual designs for decorating Christ-
mas cakes, which will make an especial
appeal to the little ones.

The Orange Marmalade Cake that
follows is delicious, and has the ad-
vantage of keeping well; in fact, it im-
proves with age just as a fruit cake does.
This cake may be made a week or more
before Christmas, and frosted on all
sides with brown sugar frosting. The
marmalade keeps the cake moist and
fresh, and it will remain so for some time,
even after it is cut.

Orange Marmalade Cake

cake requires a moderate oven and
should be baked about fifty minutes.
Frost with brown sugar frosting, and
wrap in paraffin paper, if the cake is to
be kept any length of time.

Eggs are scarce in the winter months,
and this recipe for "eggless" fruit cake
should make a strong appeal.

Fruit Cake (Without eggs)

1 cup sour milk

1 cup sugar

2 cups flour

% teaspoonful salt
| teaspoonful cinna-
mon
\ teaspoonful cloves

\ teaspoonful nutmeg
2 tablespoonfuls soda

% cup raisins
\ cup sliced

citron
4 tablespoonfuls
melted butter

Add the sugar to the sour milk. Mix
and sift the dry ingredients, and add
gradually. Add fruit, and melted butter
last. Beat well. Bake in a slow oven
for one hour. Dates or figs may be
substituted for one-half the citron, or
other combinations of fruit made instead.

Four-Minute Fruit Cake

\ cup butter or \ cup
vegetable fat

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

\ cup milk

1 cup orange marmalade

If cups sifted flour
3 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
1 teaspoonful cinna-
mon

\ cup soft butter or

chicken fat
2\ cups brown sugar
4 eggs

1 cup milk

3£ cups sifted flour

2 tablespoonfuls cocoa
\ teaspoonful mace

1 teaspoonful cinna-
mon

2 tablespoonfuls bak-
ing powder

\ pound raisins

\ pound stoned dates.

cut fine
\ pound currants

Cream the butter; add the sugar grad-
ually, and eggs well beaten. Mix and
sift the dry ingredients and add alter-
nately with the milk. Add orange mar-
malade, and bake in a loaf pan. This

Put all the ingredients into a bowl
together, and beat vigorously with a
wooden spoon for four minutes. Bake
in loaf pans for forty-five minutes. This
is a very satisfactory fruit cake, and a
great time saver.

348

AMERICAN COOKERY

Orange Gelatine Cake

Bake sponge cake in deep round layer
cake pans. Mold orange jelly in the
same pans, which have first been mois-
tened with cold water. Have one layer
of the jelly to every two layers of the
cake. When the jelly is firm, dip the
pan for a second in hot water, then place
one of the sponge cake layers on top of
the jelly, and on top of this place a large
cake plate upside down. Hold the
three firmly together and turn the plate
over so that the cake will rest on it, and
the jelly will turn out from the mold on
top. Now place another layer of sponge
cake on top of the jelly, and frost with
orange frosting.

Milk chocolate frosting makes a nice
change for Christmas cakes, and is always
a favorite with children, since it produces
quite a different flavor from ordinary
chocolate frosting.

Milk Chocolate Frosting

1 cup sugar

£ cup boiling water

Whites of 2 eggs

1 teaspoonful lemon

juice
1 large cake milk choc-
olate

Put sugar and water into a saucepan,
stir until it boils, and then boil without
stirring until the syrup will spin a thread
when dropped from a fork. Remove
from fire, and pour slowly over the whites
of eggs that have been beaten until
stiff. Beat until thick enough to spread.
Spread this frosting on the cake, and
when dry cover it with milk chocolate
which has been melted over hot water.
The water under the chocolate must be
considerably below the boiling-point.
The chocolate will make a thick coating
over the white frosting and will dry
quickly.

Another use for milk chocolate in
making Christmas sweets may be found
in substituting it for confectioner's choc-
olate when dipping bonbons. Try
dipping white and pink marshmallows in
melted milk chocolate, and allowing

them to dry on paraffin paper. One
could hardly find a more simple form of
candy for the kiddies than this, and yet
they resemble the rich French candies in
appearance.

Decorating Christmas Cakes

The attractive appearance of the
Christmas cakes is of prime importance,,
and children especially are interested in
fancy decorations. The cake, illustrated
on page 359, is baked in a pan made to
represent a Christmas star. These six-
pointed star cake pans may be purchased
at any "ten-cent" store. The cake is
frosted with white frosting, and decorated
with tiny red candies. The candies,
outline the star, and are put on just as
the frosting begins to dry. A pair of
tweezers will be found convenient for
handling the candies. The top of the
cake is decorated with candies, and with
some of the frosting forced through
pastry tubes in various fancy shapes. A
sprig of evergreen completes this very
attractive Christmas cake. The cake on
page 360,made to represent a snow-covered
house, is quite suitable for a children's
Christmas party. The little house is
worked out in considerable detail, even
to the chimney for Santa Claus. The
cake is made in two sections, and is
baked in two bread pans. When the
cake is cold, cut the top from one of the
loaves, so that an even rectangular piece
is formed with a flat surface on top.
This is the body of the house. The roof
is made by cutting the other loaf to form
the sloping sides, as shown in the illus-
tration. Place the roof on top of the
body, and secure with several toothpicks
so there will be no danger of slipping.
(The cake left over after cutting the
roof may be kept and served with a hot
sauce for a dessert.) The chimney of
the house is made from a piece of stale
bread. Cut the chimney the correct
shape with a sharp knife, and then toast
the bread lightly to give it firmness.
Secure this chimney to one end of the
house with toothpicks. The entire cake

OUT OF THE BASEMENT

349

may now be frosted with white frosting.
Just before the frosting begins to dry
sprinkle coarse granulated sugar over
the sides of the roof to represent snow.
This will glisten and give a very at-
tractive appearance. The door and win-
dows are outlined with Angelica cut
into thin strips. The lower edge of the
roof is also outlined with Angelica, and

the door-knob made from a tiny red
candy. If one wishes to make it even
more realistic, the chimney may be
frosted with red frosting, made by the
addition of vegetable coloring to white
frosting. A small figure of Santa Claus,
either standing near the base of the
chimney or on the roof, would give an
added touch to the cake.

Out of the Basement

By Helen C. Goodspeed

State Supervisor of Home Economics

IN many places, home economics is in
the basement, in body and in spirit.
In body, because it came as an after-
thought in curriculum-making and there
was no room for it above ground. Tem-
porary quarters were arranged for in the
basement, always with the thought that
in the new building it would be different;
but, somehow, starting in the basement
has been a definite handicap in that it
has made an association with below-
ground quarters, which has become an
obsession with some of our best archi-
tects.

Should we select the least attractive
rooms in the school building for teaching
home-making ideals and all that term
includes of H^use Selection and House
Furnishing, Sanitation, and Hygiene,
Child Care, and Food and Clothing for
the family, not to mention the related
psychology, sociology, eugenics, and phi-
losophy which are an essential part of the
good home-making course? All the
people who, in their thinking, place
Home Economics in the basement are
strong in their belief that we must look
to the American home to furnish us with
the ideals that make for citizenship.
Since we all agree that untrained men
and women do not make the best home-
builders, then the right kind of training
for home-making is one of the big issues
of the day. Why not give it as important

a place in our school building and in our
school curriculum as we do in our minds,
when we say that the American home is
the glory and the hope of American
civilization?

The Home Economics Department is
in the basement in spirit, in the opinion
of academic teachers, here and there,
who tend to slight it in arranging pro-
grams and in guiding the students on
registration days. From their point of
view, Home Economics can be omitted
from the daily program of the students
with little or no detriment, from an
educational point of view. This lack
of understanding of what the Home
Economics Department is trying to do
may be summed up in a remark made
recently by an English teacher in a high
school, who said: "Isn't it too bad to be
spending so much money in teaching
cooking, when prices are so high?"

Home Economics seems to have been
left in the basement and in the rear end
of the great educational movement to-
ward new and better methods of teaching.
Superintendents and principals have for
some time studied with their teaching
force the problem-project method of
teaching reading, arithmetic, geography,
and history. They have advocated the
socialized recitation and other up-to-
date ideas, as applied to academic
Concluded on page $82

350

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c
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on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal
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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
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In sending notice to renew a subscription or
change of address, please give the old address
as well as the new.

In referring to an original entry, we must know
the name as it was formerly given, together with
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Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter

Yuletide!

YULETIDE — season of all the year
Brimming over with love and cheer,
Spurning grasping and selfish greed,
Urging heed of a brother's need!

YULETIDE — season of all the year
Bidding thoughts of our friends so dear,
And of HIM the great Friend of friends
Whose kind blessing on all descends!

Hearts should beat with a purpose true,
Friends should pledge sacred ties anew,
Souls imbibe as their chosen guide
Christ's sweet message — this glad YULETIDE!
— Caroline Louise Sumner.

WORK AND SAVE

WE are living at too high-a cost. As
wages are increased the cost of all
things goes up. What is to be the end or
limit of it all? It is a wicked thing to
demand an increase of wages at this time,
and always for the same reason. A
proper adjustment of salaries and wages
cannot be made until the production and
cost of commodities return to something
like normal conditions again. Why not
demand that the price of all things,
especially of necessary things, be reduced,

and go to work to see that it be brought
about speedily. The way is not to stop
work and spend lavishly what may have
been saved under extraordinary con-
ditions; far better it were to work
steadily and save prudently. Acceptable
to everybody is the current opinion.

"The laboring man deserves all he can
get out of life and then some. But he
will never be strong for his own well-
fare economically, socially, or politically
until he learns to save systematically."

CHARITY

THAT was a good editorial recently
in the Saturday Evening Post on
"Drives, Drivers and Driven." The
gist of it may be summarized somewhat
in this wise. This is a bad year for large
and numerous drives to prosper, even for
the most worthy objects. The public is
now bearing all the burdens it can stagger
under and needs respite and relief for a
season. The drivers should be demobil-
ized and engaged in some more useful and
helpful occupation, while the already over-
taxed and overburdened public should
ignore all promoters, "the only author-
ized recording angels of philanthropy,"
and buckle down to the task of a general
housecleaning and a possible solution of
our own economic and social problems.
The writer of the editorial referred to
above says:

"Wise charity will decrease, unwise
increase, the cost of living. The latter
is simply another tax, lightly imposed,
wastefully spent. Also, when one helps
an undeserving object he is keeping men
and women out of useful industry where
they are needed to make and sell goods.
Necessary and well-managed charities will
naturally demobilize every worker that
can possibly be spared to production."

We as a people can render the best
service to suffering humanity abroad
through intensive industry and prudent
economy in the conduct of affairs at home.
In a word, we must work more and spend
less. We should get out of Europe and
see to it that disloyal propagandists and

EDITORIALS

351

evil agitators of unrest get out of America.
Revolution is disastrous and ruinous in
every sense; evolution is slow, con-
structive, and unerring; it is the natural
law of human progress and welfare.
With nature and nature's laws we
should ever co-operate. Let charity
begin at home.

APOLOGY FOR WRONGDOING

IT is high time that apology for wrong-
doing be discontinued. Things
should be called by their proper names
and no transgressor let go uncondemned.
During the late war, the modern pacifist,
the so-called parlor pacifist, has said
much in way of apology for evil and
wrongdoing, until the moral conscience
of people seems to have become weak
and uncertain, no longer able to discern
keenly between truth and error, justice
and injustice. Early in the war we
had the pleasure to listen to a single
lecture by a great leader of pacifism in
America. His first sentence was, "No-
body began this war." This seemed to us
like an apology for some one, and the
same note ran through the entire dis-
course. Now everybody knows, and
did then, who began the war, and all
about it. There was no uncertainty con-
nected with this event. We also know
that the single issue to be decided was the
moral issue: shall might or right prevail
on earth? We hope the matter has been
settled for all time. Certainly it has
cost enough in treasure and the best
blood of the world.

But are we still to apologize for the evil-
doer and condone his wrongs? In a re-
cent Conference of Churches no little was
said in way of apology for the ills and
wrongs of society, especially as revealed
in the great social unrest of the day.
Among other good things said and done
by this conference, it unanimously
adopted the following resolution:

"We, as members of the Unitarian
General Conference, reaffirming our al-
legiance to our faith in the dignity of
human nature and our interest in the

physical, moral, and spiritual welfare
of all human beings, hold that the follow-
ing principles should be the basis of
industrial reconstruction: That industrial
democracy, involving a conception of
industry as a co-operative enterprise and
the equitable sharing by all the partners
of the rewards, control, and risks of their
common undertaking, is the natural and
proper corollary of political democracy."
Surely this is excellent and above
cavil; it should be acceptable to every-
body. However, we invite attention to
a single word in the statement, risks,
which we print in italics. Right at this
point, on this one word, lies the gist of
the whole situation of the labor question.
Here is the moral issue. Will some one
guide us to the occasion and point out
the place where striking organized labor
has ever expressed, or hinted at, a
willingness to share in the risks of a
common undertaking? We stand for law
and order. We favor every cause that
is legally, justifiably, and morally right.
From a social point of view, the greatest
thing to be desired on earth is righteous
government.

ECONOMY IN FOOD

THE following excerpts from an
English publication on "How to
Economize in Food" and "Continental
Cooking Frugality" are equally well
applicable to the needs of America.

"Every man, woman, and child in the
country who wants to help the State this
coming winter can do so by giving
thought to the question of how to
economize food. If all the food that is
now being wasted could henceforth be
saved and properly used, the country
would have more spare money and each
family would have more money to save
and invest, and the prices of food mate-
rials would be kept down. We can all
help our country every day and every
hour to gain these advantages by stopping
all waste of food in our homes.

" There is another side of t he food ques-
tion in which every one of us can help

352

AMERICAN COOKERY

to strengthen the position of our country
in the shortage which is expected this
winter. We can consume less of certain
foods, which are more difficult to obtain
in full quantities, and which, therefore,
rise in price. In the case of some of
these — meat, for example — we can
replace them, in part at any rate, by
other food materials which are cheaper
and more plentiful. This can be done
without injury to health or strength in
any way, and there is a great variety of
dishes to be found in the vegetable and
cereal world, quite as nourishing as meat
dishes.

"In France and Flanders vegetable
cookery is really an art, almost unknown
to the domestic cook in this country, who
cannot be got to understand that the
finer vegetables ought to be prepared
with especial care as separate dishes.
And there is one golden rule to ob-
serve: Let as short a time as possible
elapse between the cooking of the vege-
tables and the eating of them."

" How often do we hear it advanced as a
matter of reproach that we differ so much
in our methods of making use of cold
meat, left-over fish and vegetables, from
the style prevailing in France and Italy.
There is no reason why we should not
revel in the delightful dishes which our
neighbors across the sea know how to
prepare and cook so well and so eco-
nomically.

" A few spoonfuls of nicely flavored and
seasoned minced meat or fish make an
appetizing and nutritive dish, spread on
hot buttered toast, used to stuff baked
potatoes or tomatoes, or else served with
poached eggs. Meat pies require much
less meat, if sliced potatoes or other root
vegetables, or a little cooked macaroni
or rice, is added and is carefully blended
with the meat. Potatoes should really
only be cooked in quantities that are
actually needed, but if any should be left
over they may be sliced and fried and
served to eke out a small supply of bacon
or sausages for breakfast, sliced and
added cold to salads, or mashed and

employed as a substitute for bread-
crumbs in 'shepherd's pies,' fish cakes,
etc., or made into the delicious and
appetizing potato cakes or bread so
largely used in Ireland, which not
only save wheaten flour, but are very
nutritious."

It is manifest the world over that only
by increased production and persistent
frugality in the use of food-supplies can
the food problem be solved and the cost
of living be reduced. By combining or
co-operating, American housewives could
end the present frightful cost of living in
three months.

Of late, it is said, a wave of community
feeling has swept the country.

"This community spirit says: I am
under obligations of service to my
neighbor next door, whoever he is. I am
under obligations of service to my com-
munity; I am no longer a resident, only,
I am a responsible citizen. I must make
it my duty to see that the schools and
churches teach first of all good citizen-
ship.

It is not difficult to perceive that
when this sense of neighborhood obliga-
tion gets possession of the will and feel-
ings a better community and a better
state will result, and the evils of profiteer-
ing, industrial over-reaching, and political
greed will disappear."

Christmas

The snow lies deep on the moorlands,

The night sinks gently down,
While the chill wind's sad vibrations

Shake the forest bare and brown;
But although the night is dreary,

There's a glory in the skies;
For, behold, the little Christ-child

In a manger lowly lies.

Oh, wild winds, carry the story,

And spread the tidings afar
That the birth of the King of Glory

Is heralded by a star!

Oh, angels, with exultation

Sing loud your praises sweet
While the wise men haste from distant lands

To worship at his feet!
For he was by angels welcomed,

And by prophets long foretold,
So they travel far through the gloomy night

To offer him myrrh and gold.

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ROAST GOOSE WITH SWEET POTATOES AND APPLES

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Simple Tomato Bisque (Soup)

SCALD one quart of milk with a stalk of
celery and two slices of onion. Press
enough cooked tomatoes through a
sieve to make one pint; add half a tea-
spoonful of salt and pepper as desired. Stir
one-third a cup of flour and a teaspoonful of
salt with milk to make a smooth batter;
dilute with a little of the hot milk, stir
until smooth, then stir into the rest of the
hot milk. Continue stirring until smooth
and thick; cover and let cook fifteen
minutes. Strain into the hot puree, mix
thoroughly, and serve at once with
croutons.

Cream-of-Chicken Soup for Ten
Plates

Let two quarts of chicken broth (the
better and richer the broth the better the
soup) with two or three stalks of celery, a
few slices of carrot, and half an onion sim-
mer twenty minutes. If the soup is to be
made from the framework and trimmings
of roast fowls, discard all stuffing, cover shaped pieces

353

the whole with cold water and let simmei
an hour, then add the vegetables, simmer
fifteen minutes and strain. Melt one-
third a cup of butter; cook in this half a
cup of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and a
dash of pepper; add five cups of milk and
stir until smooth and boiling (to save
time scald three cups of the milk and
add, after the cooked flour and butter
have been smoothly blended and brought
to the boiling-point with two cups of
cold milk). When all the milk has been
added and the whole is smooth and boil-
ing, add the hot broth and strain if
needed. More salt will be needed. The
beaten yolks of two or three eggs mixed
with a cup of cream improve the soup
wonderfully. Do not let the soup boil,
after the egg mixture has been stirred
into it.

Canapes, Coquelin Style

From thin slices of stale bread cut
out small round, square,

Frv these

or diamond-
in butter or

354

AMERICAN COOKERY

olive oil, and let become cold. Pound
to a smooth paste one-fourth a cup, each,
of butter and cooked chicken, half this
quantity, each, of cooked ham and grated
cheese, a dash of paprika and a little salt.
Spread this paste upon the prepared
bread. Garnish the paste with capers and
figures cut from slices of gherkin and beet
root.

Sandwiches a llmperatrice

Take two tablespoonfuls of thick mayon-
naise dressing; add two tablespoonfuls
of cucumber or celery, fine-chopped and
dried. Season this with pepper and salt,
and spread on thin slices of bread and
butter, and on this put a layer of chopped
ham or tongue. Close up the slices, and

on the rack in the pan and let cook about
an hour; then pour off the fat from the pan
and dredge the goose with flour; season,
also, with salt and pepper. When the
flour is browned, baste often with hot
water, dredging with flour after each
basting. If the goose be not too fat,
the dripping in the pan may be used for
basting, but usually boiling salted water
is better. Cook until the joints separate
easily, from one hour and a half to three
hours. Garnish with sweet potatoes,
grilled, and whole apples, boiled in
syrup.

Chicken a la King

(Often served from chafing-dish)
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it

INGREDIENTS FOR

cut them into rounds with a plain round
cutter; cover each with some of the
mayonnaise mixture, garnish with scal-
loped cucumber, and a little chopped
tongue; use for^ hors d'ceuvre, second

course, etc.

Roasti^Goose^

*J The goose should be less than a year
old; one four months old is considered
the choicest. Such a goose is usually
roasted without stuffing. Wash and
rinse thoroughly inside and out. Rub
the inside with an onion cut in halves;
then season with powdered sage, salt, and
pepper. Put the goose, after trussing,

CHICKEN A LA KING

cook one cup of fresh mushroom "caps'
peeled and broken in pieces, and one-
half a green pepper, chopped fine. After
three or four minutes add two level
tablespoonfuls of flour and one-half a
teaspoonful of salt, and stir until the
sauce boils. Set over hot water; add
three cups of cooked chicken, cut in
cubes; cover ancftet stand to become hot.
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter;
beat in three yolks of eggs, one-half tea-
spoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful
of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of
paprika, and stir into the mixture.
Continue the stirring until the egg is set.
Serve on toast.

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

355

CHICKEN-AND-PINEAPPLE SALAD

Parsnip Fritters

The fritters may be made of cooked
parsnips left over from a former meal.
Cut off all the tender portion from the
parsnips, and press through a puree
sieve or a gravy strainer, set in a small
saucepan. To a cup of this puree, add
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt
and pepper, and a beaten egg, or simply
the beaten yolk of an egg; mix thoroughly
and press into five or six small flat cakes.
Saute in hot butter, bacon or salt pork
fat, first on one side then on the other.

Filet Mignon

Broil four small tenderloin steaks.
Place each on a slice of toast. Fill
timbale cases with carrots and turnips,
cut in cubes, and mixed with peas and
string beans. Arrange the cases on
platter with steak. Garnish with water
cress and slices of lemon. Serve with
mushroom sauce.

Chicken-and-Pineapple Salad

On heart-leaves of lettuce place a slice
of pineapple (canned). On this put
half a cup of cooked chicken, diced or cut
fine; over this spread mayonnaise dress-
ing; decorate with narrow strips of
pimiento and serve.

Chicken Pancakes

Remove all bits of white meat left on
the framework of a roast chicken. Take
the bones, skin and giblets of the fowl,
with as much chicken broth or water as
will cover the whole, an onion, cut fine,
and a piece of carrot, and simmer an hour
or two. Strain, remove the fat and
thicken with butter and flour; remove
from the fire and stir in the yolks of two
eggs, beaten up with the juice of half a
lemon. Pour this sauce over the pre-
pared chicken and let it get cold. Make
one or two very thin pancakes, cut out
of them eight pieces five inches long and

FILET MIGXON

356

AMERICAN COOKERY

four inches wide, and put them aside.
Spread the pieces of pancake on a big
dish, and cover each with thin-sliced
cooked bacon. On the bacon set a large
tablespoonful of the mince, fold the
pancakes over, hold them in place with
a little white of egg, bread-crumb them,
and bake them a pale brown on a well-
buttered dish; serve upon a napkin.

Bacon Fritters

The supply of bacon is unexpectedly
short, it can be "stretched" by making
into fritters. They are also helpful, if
one's palate or eye objects to the fat of
bacon, which is, nevertheless, a very valua-
ble food. Any good fritter batter may be

Fry in sufficient fat to float the fritters.

Apple-and-Celery Salad

Mix two cups of apple, peeled and cut
in half-inch cubes, and one tablespoonful
of lemon juice, to keep the apple from
discoloring. Mix the apple cubes with
one cup of tender celery, cut in one-
fourth inch slices, and with mayonnaise
dressing. Add one-half a cup of walnut
meats, broken in pieces.

Salad Dressing

Into a mixing bowl, put yolks of two
eggs, one generous teaspoonful of salt,
one teaspoonful of mustard, one-eighth
a teaspoonful of red pepper, two table-

APPLE-AND-CELERY SALAD

used. It should stand for at least two
hours, and may even stand over night.

Fritter Batter

Dissolve one-fourth a teaspoonful of
salt in one cup of cold water, and add it
to the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, which
have been blended with one tablespoon-
ful and a half of melted butter or oil. Add
one cup of flour, beat well; cover and put
in a cool place for two hours or over night.
When ready to use beat the whites of the
eggs stiff and fold into the mixture.
Either chop the bacon into rather coarse
pieces or dip the slices into the batter.

spoonfuls of lemon juice, and two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar. Onto this, pour
one cup of oil and do not stir.

Have ready a sauce made of one cup of
water, one tablespoonful of butter or
margarine, and one-third a cup of flour.
Cook this about ten minutes in small
double boiler. Turn sauce (hot) into
bowl containing other ingredients, and
beat all together, briskly, with an egg-
beater, and almost immediately a thick
mayonnaise will be the result. It is
not only delicious, but makes twice the
amount of the other kinds of dressing.
— From Old Subscriber.

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

357

PHILADELPHIA BUTTER BUNS

Philadelphia Butter Buns

Make a sponge of one cake of com-
pressed yeast, one-fourth a cup of water,
one cup of scalded milk, and one cup and
one-half of bread flour; when light, add
one-fourth a cup of sugar, one-fourth a
cup of butter, melted; two egg-yolks, one-
half a teaspoonful of salt, the grated
rind of one lemon, and flour for dough;
about two cups of flour will be required.
Knead until smooth and elastic. Cover
close and set aside to become doubled
in bulk. Turn upside down on a board,
roll into a rectangular sheet, spread with
softened butter, dredge with sugar and
cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and
roll as a jelly-roll. Cut into pieces about

an inch and a quarter long. The dough
will make sixteen buns. Butter well the
bottom of a pan of proper size and dredge
generously with brown sugar; set the
buns on the sugar and let become light.
Bake in a moderate oven. Turn upside
down. The sugar and butter should
glaze the bottom of the buns. Three or
four tablespoonfuls of butter and a gen-
erous half-cup of sugar are none too
much on the pan.

Christmas Plum Pudding

One-half a pound of well-chopped beef
suet, two and one-half cups of sifted
flour, two cups of bread crumbs, one
lemon, both juice and rind; one cup of
brown sugar, two eggs, one-fourth a

CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING

358

AMERICAN COOKERY

teaspoonful, each, of nutmeg, ginger,
cloves, and cinnamon; one-half a pound of
seedless raisins; one-fourth a pound, each,
of Malaga raisins, orange peel, citron
peel, and lemon peel, all chopped fine; one-
half a cup of molasses, and one-half a cup
of orange juice. Mix all together in a
bowl, putting the liquids in last. Put
in a buttered mold and let steam three
hours. Reheat very hot before_ serving.
Serve with hard sauce.

Apple Pie

Line a pie plate with flaky pastry and
fill (high) with layers of sliced apples,
dredged generously with sugar and
dotted with bits of butter. Brush the
edge of the paste with cold water, set

Pumpkin Pie

i cup sugar
2 tablespoonfuls mo-
lasses
| teaspoonful salt
1 tablespoonful ginger

\\ cups cooked and

sifted pumpkin
1 cup milk
\ cup cream
1 egg, beaten light

Mix all the ingredients together and

turn into a deep plate lined and finished

with a fluted edge. Bake until the

center is firm. The oven should be of

good heat at first to bake the pastry.

After ten or fifteen minutes reduce the

heat. Twenty-five or thirty minutes of

cooking are needed.

Norwegian Birthday Ring

Let one pint of milk come to a boil,
together with one-half cup of butter, one
cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, one tea-

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APPLE PIE AND JELLY TARTS

the upper paste in place, perforate with
a fork; trim the edge even with the lower
edge. Brush the top with cold water
and dredge with sugar. Set into an
oven hot on the bottom and reduce the
heat as the pie bakes.

Jelly Tarts

Place pieces of paste, left from the
apple pie, together and roll into a thin
sheet; from this cut rounds about three
inches in diameter and set them on a
baking sheet. Place a teaspoonful of
jelly in the center of each round, brush
the edge with cold water, and set a per-
forated round of paste above. Brush
the tops with cold water and dredge with
sugar. Bake as an apple pie.

spoonful of cardamon flavor. Let cooll
and sponge with one cake of yeast foam.
Set this at noon. In the morning, add
one cup and one-half of seedless raisins,,
one cup of diced citron, and knead like
bread with wheat flour. When raised
to twice its bulk, shape to a figure "eight"
(8), putting two buttered bowls in open
spaces to keep its shape. Let it rise-
again one hour, or until very light. Glaze
with one beaten egg, sprinkle with sugar,,
cinnamon, and shredded almonds. Bake
in a moderate oven three-quarters of an
hour, or until done. This makes a
delicious coffee cake and will keep well..
If wanted for a luncheon, sponge it at.
noon, the day before, knead hard at
night, bake in the morning. l. k.

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

359

Jelly Roll

2 eggs beaten light

1 cup sugar

Grated rind 1 lemon

| cup hot water

1 tablespoonful butter

1| teaspoonfuls bak-
ing powder
j teaspoonful salt
Jelly
Confectioner's sugar

Gradually beat the sugar into the eggs;
add the grated rind, the butter melted in
the hot water and the flour sifted with
the baking powder and salt. Beat all
together thoroughly and turn into a
shallow pan lined with paper, well
buttered. Bake about eighteen minutes,
turn at once on a clean cloth, trim off
crisp edges on the four sides, spread with
jellv and roll over and over, keeping cloth
between fingers and the cake. Roll
the roll of cake in the cloth and let stand
some time. When ready to serve sift
confectioner's sugar over the top.

Gala Cake

Cream one-half a cup of butter; add
one cup of granulated sugar. Beat two
eggs and two yolks until light; into the
eggs beat one-half cup of sugar. Beat
the egg-mixture into the butter-mixture,
and when thoroughly blended add one
cup of milk, alternately, with three
cups of flour sifted with four teaspoonfuls
of baking powder and one-half a tea-
spoonful of salt. Mix thoroughly and
turn into a single cake pan, buttered
and papered, and bake thirty minutes.
When cool, spread with Gala Frosting.

Gala Frosting

Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of mo-
lasses, two cups of granulated sugar, in

A CHRISTMAS CAKE (SEE PAGE 348)

one-half cup of boiling water. Cook to
the soft-ball stage, then pour in a fine
stream onto the whites of two eggs,
beaten dry. Return the frosting to the
saucepan, set it over boiling water and
beat constantly, keeping the frosting
moving from the bottom and sides of the
pan until the mixture thickens percep-
tibly, then spread over the surface of the
cake. Do not try to make the frosting
smooth, but leave it somewhat rough.

A Christmas Bowl

Bake six Greening and three Baldwin
apples, without removing skins or cores.
When tender, add four quarts of boiling
water, the thin yellow rind of three
lemons and four oranges, and two bay
leaves. Let simmer twenty minutes,
then strain through a bag, pressing out

GALA CAKE WITH FROSTING

360

AMERICAN COOKERY

CHRISTiMAS CAKE (SEE PAGE 348)

the juice. Boil three cups of sugar with
a pint of water twenty minutes. Add to
the liquid with one cup of black-tea
infusion and set aside to become cold.
Then add the juice from the oranges and
lemons and a small bottle of maraschino
cherries with the syrup. Let stand
several hours before serving.

Corn Balls

Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a
saucepan. When the butter is melted,
add two cups of molasses and two-thirds a
cup of sugar. Stir until sugar is dis-
solved. Boil until, when tried in cold
water, the mixture becomes brittle. Pour
over six quarts of popped corn. Butter
fingers and shape into balls.

Grapes, Glace

Either Tokay or Malaga grapes are
suitable for this purpose. Pick the grapes
from the bunch, leaving a short stem on
each. With a damp cloth wipe each grape
with care. Melt two cups of granulated
sugar in one tablespoonful of glucose or
corn syrup and one cup of boiling water;
with the tips of the fingers, wet repeatedly
in cold water, wash down the sides of the
saucepan, then cover and let cook three
or four minutes; uncover and let cook to
295° F., or until the syrup is just on the
point of changing color. Remove from

the fire to a saucepan of boiling water.
Drop the grapes, one at a time, into the
syrup and remove with a candy dipper
to a tin or aluminum surface. No better
confection is made, but they will keep
only one or, at most, two days. Halves of
English walnut meats, preserved chest-
nuts or cherries (carefully dried) may be
prepared in the same manner.

Feanut [Brittle

Boil one cup and a half of granulated
sugar, half a cup of Karo, and two-thirds
a cup of water to about 270° F., or until
brittle in cold water; add two tablespoon-
fuls of butter and half a pound of small
raw (Spanish) peanuts (blanched or not,
as desired). Stir and cook the peanuts
in the syrup until they are thoroughly
cooked; add a teaspoonful of soda dis-
solved in a tablespoonful of cold water,
and stir vigorously. When the mixture
is through foaming, turn it on an oiled
marble or platter, let cool somewhat, then
turn with a spatula and pull into as thin
a sheet as possible.

Cherry Fudge

Dissolve one cup and a half of granu-
lated sugar in half a cup of milk; add one

CORN BALLS

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

361

tablespoonful of red-label Karo and let
boi! until a little of the syrup will form
a soft ball when tested in cold water,
or to 238° F. on the thermometer; add
two teaspoonfuls of butter and set on a
cake rack to cool; when cold, beat until
the mixture begins to thicken, then turn
on an oiled platter or marble. Break off
small pieces, and knead until smooth,
adding slices of cherries, meanwhile; press
one after another into a small pan. When
cold and firm, unmold and cut in cubes.

Creole Pralines

Stir three cups of granulated sugar and
one cup of thin cream, or a cup of rich
milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter,
over the fire until the sugar is melted.
Then boil, without stirring, to the soft-
ball stage. At the same time stir one
cup of sugar over the fire until it becomes
caramel. Pour the first mixture into the
caramel, and let boil up once. Take from
the fire, and beat until thick, adding
quickly at the last moment three or four
cups of pecan nut meats. Drop, by
spoonfuls, onto buttered plates or marble.

Potato Pancakes

An unusual rule

This rule for potato pancakes was given
me by a Russian girl, whose family, she
said, had had these cakes for breakfast
every Sunday morning ever since she
could remember. The flavor, I found,
is unusual, and good; and the cakes need
to be tried only once in order to be
adopted by family consent upon the
regular menu. Here is the rule:

Three large potatoes. Peel them and
let them soak in water overnight. Then
grate them into a bowl; and add

\ cup flour
1 teaspoonful baking
powder

1 egg

Salt and pepper

Milk enough to make

a barter (not much

milk)

Fry like ordinary pancakes, and serve
with syrup and butter, or jelly, as liked.

French Millinery in the Kitchen

Concluded from page 338

Moules are really most delicate in gout
of all shell-fish. I do not know if we are
prejudiced against their table company in
America, but all over France they are
regarded as a great delicacy. Sometimes
they are eaten raw, in the shell, as are
oysters, but the cooking of them and
serving of them with a butter or wine
sauce, or, perhaps, with a smooth, velvety
sauce bechamel, puts them forth at their
best and most subtle flavoring.

The platter on which our moules mari-
nieres were served was a sort of a deep
sea dish with a flat projecting rim. On
this rim was woven a bordering wreath
of wet, green seaweed, and on this were
posed symmetrically rows of tiny fluted
clovis, or tiny clams, at least cousins ger-
main thereto as we have them in America.
These are here always served with their
shells unopened, and it requires a consider-
able practice and a good deal of dexterity
with a knife to open the lips of this tightly
locked bivalve.

Within the circle of gray, shelled clovis
was another ring of pale, pink ecrivisses,
a crustacean that is but a junior imitation
of a lobster. It served as a chaplet or
coral necklace for the finishing touch to a
very novel and highly decorative dish of
sea-food a la Francaise.

In these days of food frights and fashions,
of high prices on the menus in all quarters
of the globe (all of which is really nothing
more than a sympathetic panic in pro-
visions), I feel sure that this detailed ac-
count of the millinery of these staple
dishes of French Mediterranean cuisine
will prove pleasant reading, showing also
that the culinary crisis is not nearly so
acute as to cause the French couturier-
chef, or chef -couturier, to lose his cunning
in the dressmaking accessories of the art
of cookery.

Menus for One Week in December

P
H

Breakfast

Sliced Oranges

Baked Beans

Boston Brown Bread

Doughnuts

( offee Cocoa

Luncheon

Consomme

Baked Capon

Creamed Artichokes

Boiled Onions

( elery Cranberry Sauce

One-Two-Three Dessert

Cocoa

Supper

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches

Canned Peaches

Rolls

Tea

Breakfast

Wheatena, Milk

Baked Apple

Country Sausage

Corn Meal Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cheese Fondue

Cinnamon Toast

Tea

Dinner

Boiled Mutton, Caper Sauce

Scalloped Rice and Eggplant

Lemon Jelly with Fruit

Coffee

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Milk

Crumb Griddle Cakes

Maple Syrup

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Bean Soup

Chicken a, la King

Crusty Rolls (reheated)

Tea

Dinner

Cream of Carrot Soup

Roast Loin of Pork with Sweet Potatoes

Scalloped Cabbage

Relishes

Apple Whip

Coffee

Breakfast

Oatmeal Porridge, Top of Milk

Minced Lamb on Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Stuffed Baked Peppers

Ginger Rolls

Tea

Dinner

Grapefruit

Meat Pie (reheated)

Junket

Coffee

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat

Brown Bread Creamed Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Green Pea Soup

Buttered Toast

Chocolate Layer Cake

Tea

Dinner

Roast Lamb

Potatoes Anna

Baked Stuffed Onions

Canned Pears

Coffee

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Milk

Philadelphia Scrapple

Crusty Rolls (reheated)

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Deviled Crabs

Mashed Potatoes

Floating Island

Tea

Dinner

Cream of Potato Soup

Oysters Mornay

Stuffed Endive Salad

Plum Pudding

Coffee

Breakfast

[Cream of jj Wheat, Top of Milk
Apricot-Pineapple Marmalade
Toasted Sally Lunn
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Rich Vegetable Soup

Prune Pie

Tea

Dinner

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin

Grilled Sweet Potatoes

Boston Brown Bread

Pumpkin Pie

Coffee

362

Menus for Special Occasions

CHRISTMAS DINNER

Kumquat-Grapefruit Cocktail

Oysters on the Half Shell

Clear Soup

Roast Turkey, Plain Dressing

Mashed Potatoes Browned Chestnuts

Buttered Cauliflower Boiled Onions

Celery Hearts Olives

Stuffed Spiced Prunes

Apple-and-Celery Salad Cranberry Jelly

Plum Pudding Sultana Roll

Almond Rings Almond Stars

Bonbons Fancy Grapes

Coffee

SUPPER FOR SKATING PARTY

Scalloped Oysters

Veal-and-Ham Pie (cold)

Stuffed Eggs

Parker House Rolls (reheated)

Rolled Oats Bread Sandwiches

Boston Brown Bread

Pickled Carrots Olives

Sour Pickles

Fudge Layer Cake

Almond Christmas Cakes

Coffee

STUDIO TEA

Plain, White-and-Brown Sandwiches

Crabmeat-Almond-Celery Salad

(Tinned crab and bottled mayonnaise)

Chicken a la King

(Tinned boned chicken)

Olives Celery Hearts

Sour Pickles

Tiny Christmas Cakes Bonbons

Kumquats

Coffee Cocoa Tea

363

Food -^ After the War

By Florence M. LaGanke

N the day that peace is de- is more important, we demand less. At a

clared do you know what I'm restaurant not long ago the waitress gave

going to do? I am going to have one lump of sugar with each demi-tasse.

a 7serving of everything on the table, There were very few patrons that asked

and then I'm going to take one taste, —
and then I'm going to say, 'That's all,
thank you; I don't care for any more.' I
am so tired of this gospel of the clean
plate." The speaker was a girl with a
capricious appetite, but a stern conscience.
The time was the winter of 1917 when the
food situation was most acute, and we
were all leaving our plates in the condition
of the Spratt family's platter. The real
crux of her statement, though, lies in the
query — -Well, did she? How firm a foun-
dation did all the exemplary food habits
of the war establish in the routine of our
eating? Have we done what so many
people said we would do. — eat substitute
breads forever after, rather than the
wheaten loaf?

The great gain has been something
less tangible than the actual meatless,
wheatless meal: it has given us a changed

for more. That could never have hap-
pened before the war. In the first place,
we would never have consented to have
food doled out; in the second place, the
world at large would have heard from us if
we did not get what we wanted, "when
we were ready to pay for it, don't you
know!"

What about bread? Do we clamor for
oatmeal, and rice, and barley, and potato
bread? Or, do we say with a sigh of
satisfaction, as we eat a crusty roll, "My,
isn't it good to have real rolls again!"
The bakers' advertisements are loud in
their announcements of pre-war-time
bread. And then, meat! Have we so
changed our customs that it is not true
any longer to say, as the Irishwoman did,
"Oh, yes, the two free days at the Museum
are easy to remember — wash day and
fish day." Has our week only one fish

mental attitude. That girl did just ex- day, or have we put in, at least, two? The

actly what she said she would do, but she butchers say there is more demand for

did it just once, and then she said, "I'm fish now than before the war, but they

not comfortable any more when I waste attribute it to the high cost of meat,

food." The idea of wasting food rather rather than to the continuing custom of

than just leaving it, because she did not meatless days.

care for it, is a decided aftermath of the Has it, then, all been in vain? Are the

war. We all have more conscience when pages and pages of substitute recipes just

it comes to wasting food wantonly.

In a recent play, one of the characters
put three heaping spoonfuls of sugar in his
tea, and the audience audibly gasped.
On the whole, we use less sugar, and, what

to be so many scraps of paper? NO!
because the war changed (it may be ever so
slightly), but if changed, after all, our
attitude of mind. We are willing to try
new combinations. We do not say that

364

FOOD — AFTER THE WAR

365

the good old days produced everything
good, and that the war days gave~us only
unpalatable and uneatable foods. The
housewife experimented and the family
ate ! If the housewife is wise, she will mem-
orize or tabulate some of her results.
Then, when the planning of meals becomes
that deadly bore, she will go back to some
of her war dishes.

We learned the possibilities of potatoes.
"The potato in the cellar bin, a fried po-
tato was to him — and nothing more" is
no longer true. Potatoes found their
way into baking powder biscuit, into
fruit cakes, into bread. Potato flour came
into its own again as the flour "par ex-
cellence" for sponge cake. Cooks have
learned to make allowances for moisture
and for weight of mashed potatoes in
batters and doughs, with most edible
results. The value of dates, figs, raisins,
prunes, apricots, and peaches, as a source of
sugar, was made manifest. Corn syrup is
not an acceptable sweetening agent in
many dishes when used in place of sugar
entirely. The discovery that it may be
used, at least, half in half with sugar is
something we will not soon neglect.
We have put honey, maple syrup, and
maple sugar on our list, and there are many
of us who will never willingly take them
off again.

We canned; if ever a method of canning

received a warm reception, it was the
"Cold pack" method. And then we
dried. There were many experiments
that failed. But our eyes were opened to
the possibilities, and not only our eyes,
but the eyes of the commercial dehydra-
tors as well. As a result, the dried foods
of all kinds, "from soup to nuts," not
forgetting to mention milk, have come
upon the market to stay. And oh! how
we moiled and toiled over bread. There
are many people who believe that the
baking of bread will pass into commercial
hands, just as dressmaking and launder-
ing have done, to great extent. But —
we are going to bake some oatmeal bread,
or some graham bread, or some rice bread,
at home, just for a change when we grow
tired of baker's fare. The war gave to us
the power and the ability to know it could
be done, and that we could do it.

We are going to read with eagerness the
recipes from "over there," because our
boys talk about some of the dishes. Not
when they first get home, for then it is
mother's cooking that they want. But in
reminiscent snatches we are going to hear
of "that onion soup with cheese; that
brioche; I'm telling you it was great."
Then we are going to find the recipe, and
we are going to try it; for that is what the
food shortage did for us, after all — it
made us food adventurers.

Small Conveniences for Housewives

By Hazel B. Stevens

WRAP your meat loaf in oiled
paper before baking, if you wish
to keep the juices in, and pre-
vent the formation of a hard crust on the
outside.

A tablespoonjul of molasses added to
pancake batter will make the cakes brown
quickly and evenly.

// gravy is too pale to look appetizing. —
Keep on a shelf for such emergency a
small bottle of brown liquid, made by

dissolving in water a little sugar, burned
a very dark brown in the frying pan.
The sugar must be burned past the so-
called "brown" or caramel stage, in order
to destroy its sweetness; the water should
be added while the sugar is hot, when it
will dissolve quickly. A small quantity
added to gravy and soups gives that
rich brown look much to be desired.

An easy way to get the pin-feathers from
a duck, after the big feathers have been

366

AMERICAN COOKERY

removed, is to pour melted paraffin over
it; when the paraffin has hardened, it
may be quickly peeled off, taking all pin-
feathers with it. A ten-cent cake of
paraffin will do for eight or nine ducks,
so that the cost is nothing, and the saving
of time and temper, much.

A better way to singe a chicken than the
old-fashioned one of a twisted paper,
lighted, — which is dangerous to hand
and house, — is to pour a little wood
alcohol in a saucer, light it, and singe
your chicken at your ease. It is easy
enough to have a small bottle of alcohol
on hand, once the method has been tried.

Another use for wood alcohol, is to
remove white spots from varnished tables
or other furniture; a quick rub does it.
Care must be taken, however, to make
the rub quick, lest the alcohol have time
to act on the varnish.

A hint for lovers of Boston ' Brown
Bread. — ■ Instead of steaming it in big
loaves, use baking powder tins or Crisco
tins. The advantage is: first, the bread
steams more quickly through, without
danger of becoming soggy, and, second,
the loaves are in a more convenient shape
for cutting. Steam enough for several
days at a time, one can being enough
for a meal; the bread is easily and quickly
warmed up, a can at a time.

In serving strawberries French style, —
that is, with the berries heaped around a
mound of powdered sugar, — the diffi-
culty is to make the mound stand up in a
compact way, so as to have an attractive-
looking dish. Try packing the sugar
in one of these glass lemon-squeezers,
— turning out on the dish a perfect
cone.

A Conservation Hint

Any bits of left-over meat may be ground,
mixed with a little soup-stock and season-
ing, or salad dressing, and sealed down in
a jelly glass by pouring a little melted
dripping over it. It will keep indefi-
nitely. Even half a jelly-glass is
enough for six or eight sandwiches at an
emergency. Other uses will be readily

thought of, such as spreading toast for
Poached Eggs.

Buying Groceries Wholesale

Why not get the advantage of wholesale
prices by clubbing together, a few con-
genial families in a neighborhood, and
buying groceries in large lots and at
convenient intervals? The scheme is
feasible, as I have proved; it saves time
over the method of petty buying; it
gives more chance for choosing high-
quality brands. And it saves enough to
be very much worth while.

Fresh Tomatoes at Christmas

In a climate where frost comes before
many of the tomatoes have ripened in the
garden, I pull up vines ladened with green
tomatoes, and hang them in my cellar,
where the tomatoes ripen slowly. This
plan enables me to have fresh tomatoes
on my table long after they are off the
general market. I have them always for
Thanksgiving, and sometimes as late as
Christmas.

'Double Header' Dishwashing

We are a large family, and have a
tradition of " getting together" frequently
at family dinner parties. The only blot
on these affairs has been the awful ordeal
of dishwashing, as we keep no help.

In a flash of inspiration, we instituted
what we call the " double header" system;
that is, instead of one person washing,
and the others standing round to take
turns at wiping, we have two sets . of
dishwashers going at once. Number
One clears off glasses and silverware, and
starts washing at once; Number Two,
with her helpers, scrapes dinner plates
and starts washing them. Other volun-
teers clear the table and get the rest of
the dishes ready to wash.

Everybody helps, men and all, making
a. joyous game of it, and no hardship.
It is possible, as we proved by the clock,
to clear away completely all traces of a
dinner for fifteen in twenty minutes;
using six people, — two washers, two
wipers, one to clear up, one to put away.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

Serving Kitchen Meals

WE have been living informal lives
these war-working days. More
hurried breakfasts were eaten, more or
less picnic-fashion, from kitchen cabinets
or tables than ever before in American
homes. And because of the stress of the
times no one objected; rather we took it
gleefully as our part in the huge struggle,
and gloried in our privations. We were
conserving time and energy along with
food-stuffs.

But emergency living, like picnicking,
should not be perpetual. It is quite
evident that kitchen meal-serving has
become rather a habit with many house-
wives, loath to abandon the easiness
thereof though the excuse for it be gone.

Of course, in homes where the early,
hurried breakfast is still a necessity
that meal may be served wherever most
handy, but a home-maker, whose duty
it is to care for the health and comfort
of her family, should religiously adhere
to the good old custom of a dinner in
the dining-room, with all its eye-satisfying
accessories. Placing it there may cost
her a certain number of extra steps, but
they are well worth taking. Present
comfort means much — for comfort and
cheer aid digestion — and happy memory-
making always pays.

The years fly fast; changes come over-
night, as it were. So let us reconstruct
ourselves and our home-making, along
with the larger reconstruction of national
affairs, if perchance we have fallen into
the lazy, war-excusable habit of kitchen
serving.

Keeping the Home Lights

"Whatever you do, keep the lamp
chimney clean. Everybody's eyes turn
toward it the moment they enter the
room of a night," counseled my wise
older sister when we were young girls
out on the farm, and a reading lamp was
the center of the family circle.

Since then, through observation, I
have learned how important all our
lighting arrangements are in a home.
For the eyes of all do seek the light,
though they may not do it consciously,
nor would remember having done so.
If there chance to be anything peculiar,
thev do notice,' either to admire or dis-
approve, and certainly if the "chimney"
chances to be smoky or the window
draperies torn — woe be to the re-
sponsible one!

Put dark, badly cracked shades up at
the windows, and nothing you can do,
otherwise, in furnishing the room, will
remove the gloomy, poverty-stricken
aspect. But replace them with new,
light-colored shades, and there is a sense
of cheer, cleanliness, and neatness that is
worth more than all the expensive bric-a-
brac one may accumulate.

There are so many devices for lighting
fixtures these days that one's taste is
plainly exhibited by her choice; and
since these come in all prices, no one is
debarred from the beautiful because of
small means. I have seen really artistic
wicker and paper shades for electric
bulbs in the five-and-ten-cent store.
Simplicity, durability, and the right shade
of color are to govern one's choice, con-

367

368

AMERICAN COOKERY

sidering, of course, the furnishings already
in the room.

Window draperies, as the frame of the
all-important daylight entrances, likewise
may be inexpensive, but must be care-
fully chosen. Laces are no longer in the
best taste for ordinary rooms or homes.
Better no draperies at all than dirty,
would-be finery, or loud, gorgeous pat-
terns that fairly stare at every comer.
Sometimes, for various reasons, one may
not be able to show her real taste in her
selections of home furnishings; but she
can keep the home lights clean, and
cleanliness is both "next to godliness"
and mighty near to beauty. l. m. c.
* * *

Lemon Pie

EVERY housekeeper knows that a
lemon pie may be a failure or a suc-
cess according to the method of making.

Have you ever had the experience of
baking a lemon pie and having the
filling become thinner the longer it was
baked? This may occur if the main
thickening agent is cornstarch or flour
instead of eggs.

The reason is this: the acid of the
lemon with the heat changes the starch
to sugar. To prevent this, do not add
the lemon to the filling until you have
finished cooking the filling. Place the
filling in a baked crust. In other words,
do not add the lemon to the filling and
then cook for any great length of time.

The following method of combining
ingredients for a lemon pie will bring good
results.

Mix cornstarch and cold water and
add to boiling water. Cook in double
boiler until transparent. Mix the sugar
and butter and add to the cornstarch
mixture. Mix lemon juice and yolks of
eggs, add to mixture and remove from
fire. Place filling in baked crust. Cover
with meringue, and brown in oven.

The One-Crust Pie

Stretch the pastry for the "one-crust
pie" over the outside of the pie plate and

press the edges firmly against the edge
of the plate. Prick the center of the
crust with a fork.

The baked crust will be of the desired
shape and can be easily removed from
the pie plate and put on a large plate or
platter ready for the filling.

The above method is very simple and
will save the housewife the disappoint-
ment of the shrunken and misshapen one-
crust pie. j. l.

* * *

Fruit as a Saver of Sugar

TOO often in these enforced days of
sugar saving (and from the dire
prophecies of the grocerman yesterday
as to a sugarless Christmas), the value of
fruit in the diet is ignored, or is not even
known. Fruit is a valuable item of table
diet, rich in mineral ingredients, acids, and
body-regulating substances. And you
rarely see it on the table in the average
house. It is only considered to be good
between meals, or to cook with the addition
of the valuable sugar; when, as a matter
of fact, fruits, many of them, contain sugar
that the body needs, and can be used a
a substitute for numberless "sweets" we
religiously consume.

At the present time dates are plentiful
and cheap. They contain a large per-
centage of sugar. They can be used, and
in the using of them the body will not
require so much other sugar.

Grapes are always good, and they are
one of the most nutritious fruits known.
In addition to sugar, which is present
in large proportions, they contain many
other body-building substances. Apples,
bananas, oranges are good, though it is
conceded that the latter are somewhat
expensive. Yet when it is known that a
single orange contains seventy-five calories
of the odd twenty-five hundred to three
thousand needed for the daily stoking of
the bodily furnace, one can realize that
three or four oranges would not do badly
for lunch, and they would help clarify
and clear out a system clogged up with
too much pastry and sweets. A single

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

369

apple also contains approximately seventy-
five calories, and, like the orange, is a body
regulator, containing in a bulkier and
more generally "roughage" character a
greater amount of cellulose.

This year quinces have been fairly
abundant, and they are excellent sugar
savers if put up. Of course with them one
must have sugar, and that is hard to get.
But if the housewife can squeeze a little
from her allowance from the grocer, she
would do well to preserve a little of this
excellent fruit. It will prove economical
in the end, for it will take the place of
sugar when that "sugarless" Christ-
mas arrives.

The apple is such an excellent article
that I cannot refrain from coming back to
it. They are not so expensive now, and
they make an excellent dessert, either for
dinner or for luncheon. Cooked as a
breakfast dish they require less sugar than
preserved fruits or prunes or cereals.
As for a heavier dessert bananas and
cream are excellent, or grapes with a few
of the richer nuts, as Brazil nuts. They
can, also, be served with any other kind of
nut that one especially likes. It may not
be elegant to serve peanuts, but the peanut
contains much fat and is a good cold-
weather fuel. B. T.
* * *

A Christmas Party

AN easily arranged Christmas party
that left not a dull moment in which
to wonder what to do next was given
last year. The guests were invited to
dinner, and the feast itself was the tra-
ditional one with no special features until
the last course, when a fancy card was
served to each guest, his name being on
one side and directions for his conduct
upon the other. The directions were
something like this: "Look beneath
the lamp in the drawing-room." "Take
a peep into the lowest drawer in the guest-
room bureau." "Open the sixth volume
of Thackeray at the fourth page of the
tenth chapter," etc., etc. Curiosity was
at once awakened and no time was lost

in following the instructions. In each
spot indicated was another card telling
where to go next, and there were ten
places for each guest, their different
localities being carefully calculated to
give as much exercise as possible. It
is easy to imagine the friendly scramble,
the jolly confusion, and the ludicrous
situations that would develop in the
general relaxation of a Christmas at-
mosphere. A very tall and stately
clergyman was discovered sprawling full
length on the floor, digging his way to-
ward a card under the heavy, mahogany
bookcase, while a short lady of rotund
figure was found making the ascent of a
chandelier in her anxiety to obtain her
next commands. For the time being
every one delighted in laying aside and
completely forgetting his usual dignity.
The tenth place indicated held the
long-sought prize for each person : a gay-
colored, small stocking filled with the
usual Christmas equipment, — a tan-
gerine, a pop-corn ball, a candy bag, a
few nuts, and some pretty personal trifle
for each guest. In addition there was some
musical instrument from the five-and-
ten-cent store. These were of all types,
from a xylophone to a jew's-harp, and
an impromptu orchestra was immediately
organized which developed such un-
suspected talents that Christmas hymns
and Christmas carols were experimented
with until long past midnight, m. j. h.
* * *

Use of Honey in Bread -Making

HONEY may be used with satisfactory
results in such breads as require
sweetening. In fact, the combination is
more pleasing than when molasses or sugar
is used, especially if a delicately flavored
honey be used.

Bran Brown Bread

A cup of whole wheat flour, half a cup
of honey, one cup of sour milk, a teaspoon-
ful of soda, one cup of bran, half a cup of
raisins, and salt in proper amount. Sift
together the flour, soda, and salt, and add

370

AMERICAN COOKERY

the other ingredients. Pour the dough
into large cans, as baking-powder cans,
place the lid on, and let steam in a kettle
of water for two hours. Remove the
lid and bake for ten minutes in a moder-
ate oven. White flour may be used
instead of whole wheat flour. This
bread is especially nutritious, and can be
used freely by any one with delicate
stomach.

Honey-and-Nut Bran Muffins

Half a cup of honey, one cup of flour,
half a teaspoonful of soda, a fourth tea-
spoonful of salt, two cups of bran, a
tablespoonful of melted butter, one cup
and a half of milk, from a half to a cup
of chopped nuts. Mix thoroughly the
flour, bran, soda, and salt. Add the other
ingredients and bake in gem muffin rings
in a hot oven. This amount should
make about sixteen large muffins.

Honey Bread

Take two cups of honey, four cups of
rye flour, a teaspoonful of soda, four tea-
spoonfuls of ainiseed, two teaspoonfuls of
ginger, the yolks of two eggs, one-fourth
a cup of brown sugar. Sift the flour with
the soda and spices and add the other in-
gredients. Put the dough in shallow
buttered or greased pans and bake in a
quick oven.

Steamed Brown Bread

One cup of corn meal, two cups of gra-
ham flour, three-fourths a cup of honey,
two cups of sour milk, a teaspoonful
of salt, a heaping teaspoonful of soda, a
tablespoonful of boiling water, and a cup
of raisins. Mix together the meal, flour,
and salt; add the sour milk and honey,
and then the soda dissolved in the boiling
water, and the raisins. Steam three
hours in a covered receptacle, which
should be not more than three-fourths
full. A large baking-powder can answers
very well, and one or more of these may
be placed upright in a kettle or bucket
half-filled with water that is kept boiling

for the required time. When the steam-
ing is finished, the receptacle should be
opened and set in the stove to bake for
ten minutes in order to dry off surplus
moisture. h. f. g.

* * *

The Quince

OUINCES can be canned for winter
use and make a delicious dessert.

Cut yellow, well-ripened fruit in
halves, or thirds, removing the cores,
then wash carefully, and put in granite
kettle, cover with water and cook until
pieces can be removed into cans without
breaking; fill up with the juice as usual,
excluding air, by running a silver knife
around the inside of can. Then seal
tight.

When sugar is plenty, we add a little
syrup to each kettle after nearly
ready for can, as quinces will not become
tender if cooked in syrup at first. When
a dessert is needed in the winter, fill pie
tins or use your glass baking dish and
put each piece of quince in, core side up,
fill cavities with sugar and bits of butter,
pour over enough juice to nearly cover
fruit as you would for baking apples;
watch carefully while you bake them
until well done and brown in color, the
juice and sugar forming a jelly around the
fruit.

Sauce for Quinces

Make your favorite white sauce, with
cream instead of milk, a tablespoonful of
butter and a pinch of salt, with a generous
portion of sugar; cook and serve fruit and
sauce hot, although we have enjoyed
them cold. We can our quince juice.
Seal up tight, using no sugar, then make
into jelly later with barberries or cran-
berries. A jelly beautiful in color and
of fine flavor. s. b. b.

Buy health insurance with an appro-
priation of some of your time every day
for open-air exercise.

Query No. 4096. — "How can I make
Mincemeat?

"Please give a recipe for Lemon Pie with a
crust on top."

Mincemeat

►" ■ ^AKE two pounds of lean beef from
the neck, the round, or the shank,

put into a covered baking dish,
and cook in a slow oven until tender. Let
cool, put through food chopper, sprinkle
with two teaspoonfuls of salt, and moisten
with the juices that exuded while baking.
Next, put one pound of beef suet from the
kidney through the chopper, and pare,
core, and chop enough sour apples to fill
three cups. Mix these with the suet, and
sprinkle the whole with another two tea-
spoonfuls of salt. Add to the suet and
apples one pound and one-half of raisins,
stoned and chopped, one pound of cur-
rants, thoroughly cleaned, and one-
fourth pound of candied citron, very fine-
chopped. Add to this mixture the
chopped meat. Now grate one large
nutmeg, and mix with two teaspoonfuls,
each, of powdered cinnamon and mace,
and one teaspoonful, each, of cloves and
allspice. Blend this mixture with two
pounds of sugar. Add the juice and
grated yellow rind of three oranges and
one lemon, mix with the chopped meat,
suet, etc., and moisten the whole with
sweet cider; add a cup or two of jelly,

then slowly simmer for three-quarters to
one hour. Fill the mixture into sterile
glass jars, and proceed as for canned
fruit.

The old-fashioned mincemeat was
preserved by the addition of brandy, and
was thought best after it had stood for a
year.

Lemon Pie with a Top Crust

Blend one tablespoonful of cornstarch
with a little cold water; stir into one cup
of boiling water, and cook until smooth.
Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter with
one cup of powdered sugar, and stir this
into the first mixture; add one well-
beaten egg, and cook until just creamy.
Cool slightly, and stir in the grated yellow
rind of one lemon, and the juice of the
same. Pour into pie plate lined with
pastry, put on top crust, and bake in a
quick oven.

Query No. 4097. — "I should like a recipe
for Puffed Rice Brittle."

Puffed Rice Brittle

Cook in a smooth agate pan one cup of
granulated sugar until it is a clear,
golden-brown syrup. Stir into this one-
half cup or more of the puffed rice, pre-
viously heated in the oven until crisp.
Pour on a slightly greased plate, allow to
preferably quince, or preserved fruit of cool slightly, and mark in squares.

any kind, or syrup from canning, or from

sweet pickles. Put the whole in a. por- QuERY No 4098 _ «Please tell me how to

celain kettle, let it come to a boil, and make Plain Mustard for a cafeteria."

371

372

AMERICAN COOKERY

Plain Mustard

Equal parts of powdered mustard and
slightly warm water or milk, if blended to
a smooth paste, will keep for a week. A
quarter-teaspoonful of salt to every half-
cup of liquid used is liked by some persons;
others prefer the addition of the same
quantity of sugar, which does not sweeten
the mustard, but gives a milder flavor.

The following is a more elaborate recipe
for mustard, but one that is exceedingly
good, and whose keeping qualities are
excellent.

Mustard to Keep Indefinitely

Blend a half pound of powdered
mustard with one-half cup of horse-
radish vinegar; that is, vinegar strained
from the horseradish root. Add a half-
teaspoonful of salt, and a half-table-
spoonful of Chili vinegar; that is, vine-
gar in which chopped green peppers have
been steeped for a week or more. This
highly piquant mustard should be stored
in wide-mouthed bottles, securely corked,
and it will keep for as long as needed.

Query No. 4099. — "Have you a formula for
Chocolate Sauce such as is used at the soda
fountains, which will keep a week or more
without sugaring?"

Chocolate Sauce That Will Not
Sugar

We do not know what is used at the
soda fountains, and doubtless many of
them have their own private recipes, but
a chocolate sauce that will not sugar can
be made by boiling equal parts of water
and sugar with the addition of a quarter-
teaspoonful of cream of tartar to every
cup of sugar, until the mixture is slightly
syrupy, and then adding one ounce and
one-half of grated chocolate melted
over hot water. Or if corn syrup is used
instead of water and sugar, the mixture
will not sugar.

stated by the Bureau of Nutrition Inves-
tigations at Washington to be practically
identical with that of butter; that is,
a pound of oleomargarine yields the same
number of heat calories as a pound of
butter. Its vitamine content, however,
is not so high. The margarine that con-
tains actual butter-fat, or beef-fat, con-
tains the vitamine present in these fats
according to the proportion in which they
were used in the manufacture; but no
brand of margarine yields as much of
these valuable growth-producing vita-
mines as does butter. This does not
mean that this wholesome and economical
butter substitute should be looked on with
disfavor; it only means that, when it is
used instead of butter, other foods which
yield the lacking vitamine should be
added more liberally to the diet. Such
foods are milk, lettuce and other greens;
also eggs and a few other foods, but the
most important are the first two men-
tioned, milk and greens.

Query No. 4100. — '"How does Oleomar-
garine compare in food value with Butter?"

The fuel value of oleomargarine is

Query No. 4101. — "Please give a recipe for
Icing to be used with a pastry bag and tube. "

We can give you three recipes, varying
in the ease of making.

1 . Uncooked Ornamental Icing

Stir into the unbeaten white of one egg
as much confectioners' sugar as is needed
to make a paste that will hold its shape
when molded with the fingers. This
icing may be flavored with a couple of
spoonfuls of lemon juice, but the addition
of this calls for more sugar. A similar
icing of a pretty yellow tint is made by
using the yolk instead of the white of the
egg, flavoring with lemon, and adding a
spoonful of the grated yellow rind of an
orange. These icings can be pressed
through the star and other patterns of
tube; they are quickly made and effective,
but must be used quickly, or the icing
will harden too much.

2. Cooked Ornamental Icing

Boil two cups of sugar and one cup of
water until the syrup forms a soft ball

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Why should you use plenty of
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deep frying?

Why is it that you can use
the same Crisco again
and again, even after frying
onions?

These questions, with scores
of others about all kinds of
cooking, as well as the serving
of meals, are asked and an-
swered in "The Whys of Cook-
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It is unnecessary to serve or eat soggy-
fritters or doughnuts or croquettes. Crisco
will fry them for you so that the centers
are really baked — dry and tender and
fluffy — inside a delicious, crisp brown shell.

vege-

Crisco is a modern, wholesome,
table cooking fat, made by a special
process so that it gives up its heat very
quickly, forming a protecting crust the
instant the food is dropped into the kettle.
In this way, all the fat is kept out of the
food, and all of the flavor in.

After the frying is finished there is almost
as much Crisco left in the kettle as you
had when you started — good proof that
very little has been absorbed or cooked
away. Not a drop has to be wasted.
Just strain it and use it again and again.

Crisco is better for all cooking

Crisco is so white, so pure, so delicate, so
tasteless and so odorless that you will enjoy
using it for all cooking. It makes wonder-
fully flaky pastries and biscuits. It makes
delicious cakes that taste as if made with
butter, but at half of butter cost. Try Crisco,
and you'll want no other cooking fat.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

373

374

AMERICAN COOKERY

when dropped into cold water. If you
use a sugar thermometer, it will indicate
anywhere from 236° to 240° F. for this
stage, but practical experience is just as
good as the thermometer. The syrup
should then be poured in a thin stream
on the stiff-beaten white of one egg, and
the whole beaten until thick enough to
retain its shape. This icing does not
harden quite so soon as the first, nor
when it hardens is it quite so hard, but
it should be used within a reasonable

time.

3. Fondant Icing

Cook together in a smooth agate sauce-
pan two cups of sugar and three-quarters
of a cup of water. Stir until boiling
begins, then add a quarter-teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, and wipe off with a
damp cloth any particles of sugar thrown
up against the sides of the saucepan dur-
ing the boiling. Cover and cook five
minutes. Remove cover, wipe sides of
saucepan again, and cook to soft-ball
stage as in preceding recipe. Pour
syrup on a large platter, or a marble
slab, and let stand until a dent remains
on the surface when pressed with a spoon.
Work the syrup from the sides to the
center of the dish with a spoon, prefera-
bly wooden, until the whole is a white,
creamy mass, then knead it like bread
until of the right stiffness. The mixture
should be entirely free from crystals, and
as smooth as lard. This can be packed
into small bowls or wide-mouthed jars,
securely covered with waxed paper, and
will keep for two weeks or more in the
refrigerator. It may be used at once for
piping, but is better if let stand for a day.
This is the finest kind of ornamental
icing.

Query No. 4102. — "Please give some recipes
for Ice-cream Sauces such as a good Bittersweet,
also Fudge Sauce and Butterscotch Sauce, also
one using marshmallows."

Bittersweet Sauce

Add to one cup of sour cream one-
fourth cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls

of lemon juice, and the grated yellow
rind of one lemon. Then beat and beat
and beat.

A recipe for fudge sauce appeared on
page 294 of the October number, and
one for butterscotch sauce on page 296
of the same number. A marshmallow
sauce is make by partially dissolving in
either fudge, butterscotch, or any other
hot, sweet sauce, as many marshmallows
as you please.

Query No. 4103. — "What causes my White
Bread to Crack at the sides during baking?

"What makes the Sponge sometimes look
yellow?

"Why is the bread sometimes Coarse in
Texture?

"Why does bread sometimes have a yeasty
smell and taste?

"Why is my Chocolate Icing sometimes
glossy and sometimes not?

"Please give recipes for a glossy boiled
Frosting, also one for Fudge, and one for Divinity
Fudge.

"Give directions for making Pop Corn Balls
that will not stick to the fingers, and let me know
the cause of their sticking.

"Will you tell me how to use a Sugar Meter,
and whether it -is used only in boiling syrup for
canning?"

It gives us pleasure to answer these
interesting and intelligent questions, and
to give in each case, to the best of our
ability, the "reason why" demanded by
this housekeeper.

Why Bread Cracks at the Sides
During Baking

Sometimes bread cracks at the sides
because the oven is too hot, but more
often because too much flour was used in
the mixing. The experienced house-
keeper learns to knead her bread with as
little flour as possible, no more than two
cups and one-half (level) to one cup of
water. Begin by kneading very lightly,
gently manipulating the dough with the
tips of the fingers until the gluten has
taken up the moisture, then the pressure
may be increased by degrees. This
skillful "handling" of the wet mass of
dough until it becomes smooth and elastic
is gained after a little experience, but the
point to avoid is the use of too much flour,

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A pound tin of Ryzon and a copy of
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The
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This is the season of baking
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&ENERALCHEMICALCQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT

NEW YORK

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

375

376

AMERICAN COOKERY

and the point to strive for is to see just
how little flour you can use and knead
bread that will not stick to the board.

Cause of a Yellow Sponge

This is not easy to account for unless
all the circumstances of the mixing, the
material of the utensils, the nature of the
water, etc., were fully known. The best
bread flour is not white, like pastry flour,
but is of a decidedly creamy tint, and this
tint always appears deeper in the sponge
than in the dough. William Jago, a
great authority on bread-making, says
that the finest Hungarian flour makes a
sponge of decidedly yellow tint. The
presence of excess of water, as in the
sponge, seems to deepen the natural tint
of the flour; this yellow color would be
hardly perceptible in the baked loaf, or
would give only the rich creaminess so
desirable in good home-made bread.

Cause of Coarse Texture

This results from insufficient kneading,
or too rapid rising, or both. If the
process of "cutting down" is repeated
twice or even three times, instead of once
as is usually done, the bread will be of a
much finer grain and a better flavor, but
it^will grow dry sooner.

Causes of a Yeasty Taste

Quick-process bread, that is, bread
made with two or three compressed yeast
cakes to a pint of liquid, often smells and
tastes of the yeast while it is warm from
the oven, but not, as a rule, after it is a
day old. Bread made with an insuffi-
ciency of salt is also apt to taste yeasty —
one teaspoonful of salt to three cups of
flour is a good proportion. When bread
is baked in very large loaves, it often tastes
of the yeast, since the size and thickness
of the loaf prevents the destruction of the
yeast plant by the heat of the oven.

Why Chocolate Icing Loses Its
Gloss

If a chocolate icing is beaten too much
beforespreading, the gloss will be lost.

It should be spread while it is yet a little
"runny," so that it flows of itself to a
great extent over the surface of the cake.
Sometimes if a knife-blade, dipped into
hot water, is used to smooth the icing, it
will restore the gloss.

Glossy Boiled Frosting

Boil together two cups of sugar and
one cup of water until, when a spoonful
of the mixture is dropped into cold water,
it will form a soft ball. Pour this syrup
in a thin stream on the stiff-beaten
whites of either one or two eggs, beating
all the while. Continue beating until
frosting is thick enough to spread, but
not thick enough for the pastry-tube work
given on another page.

Fudge

Plain fudge is made by boiling together
two cups of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
butter, and three-quarters of a cup of
milk, to the soft-ball stage (238° to
240° F.). Remove from fire, let cool a
little, and beat with spoon until thick and
creamy. Pour into a greased pan, and
when hard enough mark in squares.
Different kinds of fudge can be made by
using brown sugar, maple sugar, by
adding chopped nuts just before beating,
or by cooking in the syrup from one to
two ounces of scraped chocolate, or one-
quarter cup of cocoa.

Divinity Fudge

This is made by pouring a chocolate
or other fudge while the syrup is in the
soft-ball stage, on the 'beaten whites of
one or two eggs, as for frosting, and then
beating until thick and creamy.

To make fudge is a simple thing, but
we believe your difficulty is due to the
beating part of the process. If you do
not beat long enough, the fudge will not
harden; if you beat too long, it will be
too hard and dry. In the last case, it
can be melted over hot water, or cooked
again in half the original amount of water,
and you can try the beating over again.
A very little experience will tell you when
it is just right.

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377

AMERICAN COOKERY

Why Pop Corn Balls Are Sticky

Pop corn balls are sticky when the
syrup is not boiled long enough. The
syrup for these should be boiled until it
hardens into a brittle mass when dropped
into cold water. This will be at about
270° F.

The sugar meter indicates the specific
gravity, or density, of the syrup. It is
useful in canning, but not necessary.
You had better write to the manufact-
urer for directions in detail as to its use,
for there are different kinds on the market,
and the standards used in figuring the
density are not always the same, that is,
the standard may be 1, 10, 100, and I
have seen one where the norm was 1,000.
I believe a sugar thermometer, Fahren-
heit, would be useful to you, if you do a
great deal of cooking of sugar; though
it is not difficult to learn the tests by the
rule-of-thumb fashion of dropping into
cold water and observing how the syrup
"hairs," etc.

HOSE
SUPPORTER

QjOYS and GIRLS enjoy
the lightness and comfort-
able security of Velvet Grip Sup-
porters. And they are the most,
economical because they prevent
injury to stockings and give die
longest wear.
George FrostCo.,Makers.BOSTON

New Books

The Story of Milk. By Johan D.
Frederiksen. Illustrated. Price
31.50. The Macmillan Company,
New York.

This book deals with the production
and characteristics of milk, its composi-
tion and use, beginning with the milking
of the cow and ending with milk cookery.
The handling of milk for city supply, the
action of ferments and bacteria and their
control, the pasteurization of milk, and
the making of butter, cheese, ice cream,
and condensed milk are some of the
topics presented. There are also chapters
on the feeding of milk to infants and
children, the food value of milk and milk
cookery.

The author, who is well qualified by
practical experience and training to write
on this subject, brings the latest results
of the best technical knowledge within the
easy reach of the ordinarily intelligent
student of home economics and the daily
worker as well as the expert. His
volume fills a long-felt want for a com-
prehensive, concise handbook on the use
and handling of^milk.

This is a comprehensive book of ,
reference. The subject is important;
the information it contains is most
valuable; the author is a competent
expert with long and varied experience.
The motive of the work is to "open the
eyes of many to the fact that there is no
more interesting subject than 'milk' in
connection with the study of the wel-
fare and physical improvement of hu-
manity, and that milk and its products
should be used to a much greater extent."

The significance of dairy farming
cannot be overestimated; hence the
true import of books like this.

Lessons in Cooking, through Preparation
oj Meals. By Robinson & Hammel.
467 pages. Illustrated with half-
tone plates. 32.00, postage 14 cents.
American School of Home Econom-
ics, Chicago, 111.
The new revised edition of this menu

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
378

Ai> V l^XV 1 lOl^lVXl^lX 1 o

Owe icwy to beat

Use more of the cheaper cuts of
meats. They're just as full of nutri'
merit as the more costly meats and
you can make them really delicious
with Del Monte Tomato Sauce.

There is almost no end to the

possibilities for adding economical

variety to everyday meals if you

keep a supply of this restful sauce

always on hand. Made from red^ripe

tomatoes, fresh peppers and pure

seasoning ingredients, its distinctive

flavor makes all kinds of good cook'

ing better. Serve it on roasts, in

soups, with rice and macaroni,

cooked with baked beans, on all

fried foods, in salad dressings, as well

as with all sorts of "left'over" foods.

Ready to use as it comes from the can,
Del Monte Tomato Sauce offers you one of
the most convenient means of adding new
2£st and appetite appeal to every -day meals.

Send for our new book, "Del Monte
Tomato Sauce Recipes" (Publication No.
689) and learn over 100 simple ways to
practice real food economy. It is free.

Address Department R

CALIFORNIA PACKING CORPORATION

San Francisco, California

flellJlonte

BRAND

QUALITY

Tomato
sauce

vuimuiiiuiiiiiii3i:

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

379

AMERICAN COOKERY

TECO

SELF-RISING

Pancake

and Buckwheat

Flour

It's in the Flour,

Hot cakes! In a minute!

Made with Teco pancake and buckwheat

flout,

Wheat cakes! Waffles! Gems!

Make the finest easily and quickly with
Teco pancake flour and cold water.

Buckwheat cakes!

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add
cold water to Teco buckwheat flour.

For our new buttermilk book write to

THE EKENBERG CO.

506 Cambridge St., Cortland, N. Y.

Sawteb Crystal Blue Co., N. E. Agts.

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

DEERFOOT FARM
SAUSAGE

Made in the same old-fashioned
way. Only the tenderest, leanest
parts of the pig — chopped not too
fine — with spicy herbs to lend
piquant flavor — that's the genuine.

Flavor and quality
have made Deerfoot
Farm Sausage famous.
Be sure you get the
genuine.

We prize the name
Deerfoot too highly
ever to let it stand
for anything but the
best.

No other sausage has that distinctive
taste. And you may be sure that every-
thing that goes into the making of Deer-
foot Farm Sausage is of the highest quality.

Sold in 1-pound links in parchment packages;

1-pound boxes of sausage meat and 2 and

4 pound bags of sausage meat,

SOLD BY ALL GOOD DEALERS

DEERFOOT FARM, SOUTHBOROUGH, MASS.

cook-book comes to hand in attractive
cloth binding, uniform with the "Li-
brary of Home Economics." The plan
of the course or book remains the same,
i. e., seasonable menus with recipes,
followed, by directions for preparing the
whole meal and bringing it onto the table
at the desired time.

Now that the meal has finally been
adopted as the basis for the teaching of
cooking in many schools, this is a timely
book for teachers. It is particularly help-
ful to beginners in cooking, for the difficult,
part of home cooking is to prepare and
bring through the various dishes at the
same time. The book will prove useful
to experienced housekeepers in helping to
answer the ever-recurring question "What
shall we have to eat?" and in suggesting
new dishes.

Each of the twelve chapters contains
one or more menus and directions for
special holiday dinners, luncheons, and
suppers, together with excellent special
articles on dish-washing, fireless cooking,
planning meals, labor-saving equipment,
etc.

In this series of lessons is presented a
systematic correspondence course in the
cooking of meals, with detailed directions,
not only for cooking the separate dishes,
but also for preparing and serving each
meal as a whole.

A good deal of valuable information is
to be found in this volume: from it one
can learn much about the art of cooking
in the home.

Teco Pop Corn Crackers

\ cup melted short-
ening
^ cup cold water

2 cups Teco Pancake
or Buckwheat flour

1 cup popped corn, put
through the food-
chopper

Combine the ingredients in the order
given, toss on a floured board, roll thin,
cut in any desired shape, and bake about
eight minutes in a quick oven. Serve
with soups or salads. These are a most
delicious as well as a laxative food. Bran
may be substituted for the pop corn.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

380

t\LJ V SLIK 1 10IL1V1H1N 1 ^

:ine Christmas Cake

Twenty-four Years ^§^ of Reputation

Prepared [Tlot Se(f-7lising)

'Cake Secrets"

Preferred by Housewives for 24 yeara

For twenty-four years, Swans Down Cake Flour has improved home
baking. Unlimited time and effort has been spent testing the possi-
bilities of this specially prepared cake flour. Cakes are baked — scores
of them — right at the factory, so that at all times the wonderful
baking qualities of Swans Down may be intact.

Insuring against loss and disappointment through cake failures,
Swans Down costs but a few cents for every cake. Try it with any
recipe!

Lighter, whiter, finer, better cake — pie — pastries — perfect^every
time. Any good grocer sells Swans Down.

'his book of valuable recipes I GL E H EART BRUT H t. R S

Dept. AC EVANSVILLE Established 1856 INDIANA

Also manufacturers of Swans Down Wheat Bran, Nature's Laxative Food

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes.

381

AMERICAN COOKERY

«W

for breakfast

these nipping mornings — give the family piping
hot cakes — and plenty of Uncle John's Syrup.
Uncle John's is pure and wholesome — made from
finest cane and maple syrups — blended. Good in
a hundred different ways — try it. —

Put up in 4 convenient sizes.
Order a can today.

New England Maple Syrup Company

Winter Hill Station

BOSTON, MASS.

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness.

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMO-VESCO.
Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, I £oz. , .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, l6oz., $1.00 --
(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

*31 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN. N. Y.

Out of the Basement

Concluded from page 349

subjects, but only recently have J:hey
begun to consider how all this may
carry over into the field of Home Eco-
nomics. Many of the problems which
they use for teaching English, mathe-
matics, and other subjects have their
origin in the home environment. It is
not exaggeration to say that no subject
lends itself so readily to the problem-
project method of teaching as does
home-making with its infinite problems
of real life.

Home Economics too often stays
willingly in the basement and lets the
rest of the school go its way untouched
by the influence for better homes, better
food, and better clothing, which this
department exerts upon a chosen few.
A stranger visiting a school might never
know that the Home Economics De-
partment exists unless he is especially
conducted to that Department. Aca-
demic teachers have taught for months
in high schools without knowing just
where the Home Economics Department
is located.

Not only is it time to move the stoves
and tables bodily to the upper floors,
where the environment is more conducive
to the teaching of wholesome home
ideals, but more important than this is
the need for bringing the influence for
better homes, better food, and better
clothing up into the main corridors of
the building, where all may benefit from
the daily contact.

Splendid charts on "How the High
School Girl Should Dress" grace the
bulletin boards in the basement sewing
room, at the same time that the principal
is deploring the fact that, for the main part,
the high school girls dress beyond their
means. Forceful charts for teaching bet-
ter food-habits hang on the kitchen walls
until they lose their value with the few
who see them every day, while statistics
tell us that among school children one
out of every five is under weight. Too
often a splendid class in dietetics in the
basement makes no effort to influence

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

382

ADVERTISEMENTS

If you would have each meal dainty and dis-
nctive as well as wholesome and nourishing,
Iways have Cox's Gelatine on hand!

An unusual salad of fruit and nuts, a savory
oup or dainty relish — all these can be made
lluring to the eye and tempting to the appetite !
^earn the secrets of some of the cleverest chefs
nd use Cox's Gelatine!

Unflavored and unsweetened there is no limit
5 ways in which this excellent Gelatine can
>e used !

And then desserts ! Puddings, custards, blar.c
oange, ice cream — all kinds of fascinating Gela-
ine desserts can be made quickly and easily
vith Cox's Gelatine.

Our "Manual of Gelatine Cookery" will give
rou many helpful hints. Send for a free copy
oday.

Instant Powdered

GELATINE

[HE COX GELATINE COMPANY

Dept. D, 100 Hudson Street, New York

Delightful Flavor!
Extra Strength!

Nothing counts so much in the making
of desserts, candies, frosting, cake,
and ice-cream as the flavor.
Use Bee Brand Flavoring Extracts
and be sure of getting the best. They
combine delightful flavor with a
strength that makes their use an
economy.

Bee Brand Flavoring Extracts

include vanilla — made only from the
choicest Mexican bean and of the
proper age to give a delicate delicious
flavor — lemon, orange, rose, almond,
cinnamon, celery, ginger, nutmeg, and
peppermint.

When you buy Extracts be sure to
insist on Bee Brand and get the highest
quality, full strength and flavor — ■
with the guarantee of absolute purity.

McCORMICK AND COMPANY

BALTIMORE, MD.

(Importers and Manufacturers

Proprietors of the Famous Banquet Tea)

We will send you our Bee Brand Manual of Cookery o»
receipt of 50c ia cash or stamps. Write also for our
free booklets, giving interesting facts concerning spices,
teas, and flavoring extracts.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

383

AMERICAN COOKERY

I can cook but
I can't bake

WRONG! You can bake. Perfectly
delicious pastries, cakes, breads — every-
thing. As well as anybody. No matter
what your experience. The whole secret of
baking is' getting the right oven temperature.
Whhh you can't help but get — exactly —
always — with the

Taylor Home Set

The Taylor Oven Thermometer ($2.00) for bak-
ing. The Taylor Candy Thermometer ($1.50)
for boiling. The Taylor Sugar Meter ($1.00)
for preserving and canning.

Write for the three Taylor Recipe Books.
They tell you the exact temperatures in figures
not only for their own but for all recipes.

Taylor^ Instrument j .Companies

ROCHESTER/ N. Y. "* ' ""

Tf your dealer can't
supply the Taylor
Home Set or will not
order for you, mail
$4.50 (price of com-
plete set) direct to us
with d tiler's name
and it will be sent you
>re >ai 1. (Prices in
Canada and Far West
proportionately
higher.)

AAS

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers" Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

GRANNY'S SECRET

Gake Patter

Send for

Gift
Catalog

There is a difference in the lightness

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long

remembered — the best. Perhaps you have some friend who takes

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is the

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c.

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden
times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge
parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no
doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted
and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty/
shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts!|
which will be forwarded upon application.

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I.

the food-habits of the students, who daily
select their food at the school, cafeteria.
Out of the basement or out of the Home
Economics Department, wherever it be
located, should come charts, slogans, and
suggestive combinations of foods that,
appearing on the bulletin boards or con-
spicuously in the school lunch room, would
tend to educate the entire student body
in better food and clothing habits. .

Why shouldn't the class that studies
house decoration take an active interest
in the kind of pictures that hang in the
assembly room, and in the way they are
hung? In fact, is it too much to say that
every high-school class in House Decora-
tion would go a long way toward proving
its educative and practical value to the
student body and faculty, if it left its
mark in the school by making some room
or corner of the building more harmonious
and comfortable?

After all, "By their works ye shall
know them." This Out of the Basement
Movement is apparent, here and there, all
over the country. In one High School an
undernourished child was studied and
treated for a year by a dietetics class.
Systematic campaigns for appropriate
dress on the part of the high-school girl are
carried on in many schools by means of
charts placed on the main bulletin board,
by style-shows put on in the assembly
room, or by short articles contributed to
the local newspapers. Exhibits planned,
advertised, and executed by the students,
to which the mothers are invited, and
where tea is served, are a common occur-
rence in one school. For one year a
sophomore dietetics class prepared milk
for an undernourished baby, belonging to a
poor family in the community,, and de-
livered it daily to the home. High-
school students studying dietetics are
going into the lower grades and working
with the grade teachers on the under-
weight problem, teaching in four-minute
talks, and in the simplest terms possible,
the fundamental health habits-.

It is evident that Home Economics
won't stay in the basement.

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
384

ADVERTISEMENTS

SNOW

ssttr

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

385

AMUKIUAIN CUUJViLKI

1 ■— ■—■■»■ .■■.I."

■■-""'■' '■•■'■>-*n

Goody 'Goody!

,,#

•^•t

*lfc

*?*

\r*

*"s<

>*J

MAPLEINE FUDGE

This will be a real treat for
the youngsters — something a
little different with a delicate
mapley flavor.

In making candies of all kinds and
icings for cakes you'll find that —

MAPLEINE

yAeGo/cte/i^/avor

is a deliciously rich flavoring. Use it like
any other flavoring, though less is required.
Does not cook or freeze out.
To Make Instant Syrup Mapleine is truly
wonderful — simply dissolve gran-
ulated sugar in hot water and use
Mapleine to flavor and color.
Mapleine contains no maple sugar,
syrup nor sap, but produces a
taste similar to maple.

Grocers Sell Mapleine

2 oz. bottle 35c. Canada 50c.
4c. stamp and trade mark from
Mapleine carton will bring the
Mapleine Cook Book of 200
recipes.

Crescent Mfg. Company

323 Occidental Avenue
Seattle, Wash.

188

hSBS"

SEVEN-CENT MEALS *ir50p-„:w^

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

The Silver Lining

Mary Had a Little Lamb

Mary had a little lamb,

About three pounds or so,
And Mary did her best to see

How far that lamb would go.

She broiled it first and served it hot

With sauce of Worcestershire,
Then boiled the bones and made from them

Some cups of bouillon clear.

From all the scraps did Mary cook

A wondrous tasty stew,
But when she warmed it up next day,

She called it a ragout.

"This lamb, what makes us love it so?"

Her eager children cry;
"Oh, Mother is some cook, you know,"

Their father did reply.

— Mary Barron Washburn.

The Tactician

The Vicar {meeting inebriated par-
ishioner)'. "Oh, Pat, and I thought you
were a teetotaler."

The Parishioner: "Shure, an' that I
am — ■ hie — yer Riverence, but norra-
bigoted one." — ■ The Tatler.

Disraeli was much troubled by literary
aspirants sending him their books to
read. The formula he adopted in ac-
knowledging was: "Dear Sir, or Madam,
I am much obliged for your book which I
will lose no time in reading."

A Sunday-school teacher in London was
talking to her class about Solomon and
his wisdom. "When the Queen of Sheba
came and laid jewels and fine raiment be-
fore Solomon, what did he say?" she
asked presently. One small girl who
evidently had had experience in such mat-
ters promptly replied, "Ow much d'yer
want for the lot?"

Trade Mark Begietered.

Gluten Flour.

40% GLUTEN

Guaranteed to comply in all respects »o
standard requirements of U. 8. Dept. of
Agriculture.
Manufactured by
FARWELL & RHINES
Wstertown. N. Y.

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
386

ADVERTISEMENTS

-»-4

HOME 'MADE CANDIES

A Christmas Suggestion by MRS. KNOX

For Christmas I suggest home-made candies, and give below recipes that are easy
and economical to make with home materials. These candies will please the family —
grown-ups as well as children — for they are pure, wholesome, delicious sweets, and so
attractive that they are particularly suitable for gift-giving.

KNOX

SPARKLING

GELATINE

FRENCH DAINTIES (CANDY)

Soak two envelopes Knox Sparkling Gelatine in

one cup cold water five minutes. Add one and one-
half cups boiling water. When dissolved add four

cups granulated sugar and boil slowly for fifteen

minutes. Divide into two equal parts. When

somewhat cooled add to one part one teaspoonful

extract of cinnamon. To the other part add one-
half teaspoonful extract of cloves, and color with

the coloring tablet found in package. Pour into

shallow tins that have been dipped in cold water.

Let stand over night; turn out and cut into squares.

Roll in fine granulated or powdered sugar and let

stand to crystallize. Vary by using different flavors

such as lemon, orange, peppermint, wintergreen,

etc., and different colors, and adding chopped nuts,

dates or figs.

Sugar Saving Suggestion: Syrup may be used in these candy recipes
replacing each cupful of sugar with three-fourths of a cupful of syrup.

ANGEL CHARLOTTE DESSERT
This dainty dessert will add a happy ending to any Christmas dinner

COCOANUT MARSHMALLOWS

Soak one envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine in
three-fourths cupful of water five minutes. Put
two cups granulated sugar and one-half cup water
in saucepan, bring to the boiling point and let
boil until syrup will spin a thread when dropped
from tip of spoon. Add soaked gelatine and let
stand until partially cooled; then add few grains
salt and one teaspoonful vanilla. Beat until
mixture becomes white and thick. Pour into
granite pans, thickly dusted with powdered sugar,
having mixture one inch in depth. Sprinkle with
grated cocoanut. Let stand in a cool place until
thoroughly chilled. Turn on a board, cut in cubes
and roll in powdered sugar. This recipe makes
about one hundred marshmallows. Nuts, choco-
late, fruit juices in place of part of the water, or
candied fruits chopped may be added. Dates
stuffed with this confection are delicious.

% envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine
Yl dozen rolled stale macaroons

1 dozen marshmallows, cut in small pieces

2 tablespoonfuls chopped candied cherries
l/i pound blanched and chopped almonds

1 cup sugar

1 pint heavy cream % cup boiling water

-1 teaspoonful vanilla XA cup cold water

Soak the gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling
water and add sugar. When mixture is cold, add

cream, beaten until stiff, almonds, macaroons,
marshmallows and candied cherries. Flavor with
vanilla. Turn into a mold, first dipped in cold
water, and chill. Remove from mold and serve
with angel cake. This dessert may be made more
elaborate by cutting the top from an angel cake
or stale sponge cake, and removing some of the
inside, leaving a case with three-fourths inch walls,
then filling case with mixture, replacing top of
cake, covering with frosting, and garnishing with
candied cherries and blanched almonds.

c/VOX jr^^-OWrViySVaj,

KNOX

GElatiHE

CHARLES 5 KMX OUTiNC C0.hk. .

Quantity with Quality in KNOX, the "-l-to-l"
Gelatine, for each package makes FOUR PINTS
of jelly — four times more than the ready-
prepared brands.

Send for additional candy recipes and my "Dainty
Desserts" and "Food Economy" books. FREE, if
you mention your grocer's name and address. Any
domestic science teacher can have sufficient gelatine
for her class, if she will write me on school stationery,
stating quantity and when needed.
"Whenever a recipe calls for Gelatine — it means Knox"

W\L?'

KJNOX

SPARKLING

V'i-

KNOX GELATINE

107 Knox Avenue

Mrs. Charles B. Knox

Johnstown, N. Y.

.-'^aa^^' SX3*c*BztF& *&>

GElatinE

MCMt •>

CHARLES B.WWXGEUTMr. CO inc.

J0«*ST0*mJt.T JttJh- i
"L OCT WEIGHT wnt vvnv,i

V^ '^teS^ ^flgg*'

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

387

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

rr serves roun home and

SAVES YOUR TIME THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
'Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grade piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for general Utility.
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW

for a descriptive pamphlet
and Dealer s Name.
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

504J Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III.

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves 'work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Kecipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. 1 es Oliver st„ boston, mass.

SALAD SECRETS

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N . Y.

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

gri @Ited Label

Spices

The A.Colburn Co.,
Philadelphia,U.SA

The Graduate Houskeeeper

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

This is only one of several professional and
homemaker's courses included in our special offer.
Full details on request.

COUPON

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

Please give information about your Correspondence
Course marked X

Graduate Housekeepers' Course.

Institution Management Course.

....Lunch Room Management Course.
....Teaching of Domestic Science Course.
....Home Demonstrators' Course.

Practical Nurse's Course.

....Dietitian's Course.
.—Homemaker's Courses.

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information _

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference)

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

388

ADVERTISEMENTS

vseffeports
for Thought

Ask for Riteshape Service

Riteshape wooden dishes are sanitary, economical
and are useful in the home.

Scientific investigation has proven it. We will send
you this scientific data if you are interested.

Ask your grocer and butcher to use Riteshape dishes
for bulk foods.

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY

MANUFACTURERS

EAS TERN SALES OFFICE
110 W. 40th ST.
NEW YORK CITY

WESTERN SALES OFFICE

37 S. WABASH AVE.

CHICAGO, ILL.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

389

AMERICAN COOKERY

NESNAH DESSERTS

(Made in a jiffy)

Not the Christmas Dinner but the dessert is the thing that leaves
a feeling that you have not dined wisely. Our Grandfathers could
eat heavy plum pudding and hearty pies, but today a lighter des-
sert finishes the more carefully prepared Christmas feast.

Nesnah Sherbet, Nesnah Pudding, Nesnah Ice Cream are dainty
desserts which give just the right balance to the Christmas Din-
ner. The sugar and the flavor is already in this delicious dessert.

Nesnah Ice Cream

One gallon

2 quarts milk 1 pint cream

3 packages of Nesnah

Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm
(remove from stove), drop the
NESNAH into it and dissolve by-
stirring for one-half minute. Pour
mixture into ice-cream can and let
it stand undisturbed ten or fifteen
minutes until set; pack with ice and

Six pu1

Vanilla Chocolate Lemon

salt; freeze to a thick mush before
adding cream, then continue freez-
ing. Crushed and sweetened fruit
can be added with cream.

Nesnah Pudding

Dissolve one package of Raspberry
Nesnah in one quart of warm milk.
Pour immediately into small cups
containing chopped fruit and nuts;
when cool place in refrigerator to
chill. Serve with whipped cream.

Flavors

Orange Raspberry Almond

A post card will bring a free sample and a booklet of recipes.

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY

BOX 2507, LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.

The Nationa overages

There's not a State in U.S. A.~Eut knows and uses White House Coffee aid! Teas.
Carload shipments, once an event with us, are now common. Nothing short of
exceptional quality could command such patronage. If you haven't tried White
House Coffee and Teas, a new pleasure awaits you. Always in the air-tight package.
DWINELL- WRIGHT COMPANY, Principal Coffee Roasters, BOSTON - CHICAGO

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

390

ADVERTISEMENTS

KRUMBLED

BRAN

Better
Health

JDoritltccrutLl^aad.

TO KEEP REGULAR -EAT

rcUMBLEI

BRAH

«EADY TO SEBVc

2«*£S^

uwvrwnq a&a

Uiid and aua^wrttii£d.

Yovl never tasted bran so floods-'
You never saw bran so different !

liOok at the actual picture of Kellogg's
Krumbled Bran. See what a real cereal
food Kelloggs have made of bran.

¥bu may have been disappointed in bran-y ou
nay not have liked its looks or its lack of taste.

Mow you have a real surprise and a real
:reat, if you will buy a package of Kellogg's
Krumbled Bran from your grocer and try it.

[t doesn't look like bran — it is shredded and
toasted, like Kellogg's Krumbles.

[t doesn't taste like bran — it has an ap-
petizing, tempting flavor, like Kellogg's
roasted Corn Flakes.

[t doesn't get stale and tasteless — it is pro-
tected by Kellogg's "Waxtite" package —
like all Kellogg products.

Don't be constipated. Don't let constipation
even begin. Constipation fills your system
with poisons. It often causes sick headaches ;
it slows you up mentally and physically.

It is a pleasure to overcome and avoid con-
stipation and its evils in this natural way —
by eating Kellogg's Krumbled Bran. You
don't have to wait till baking day to get
its benefits.

It is ready to eat with milk or cream at

breakfast — just as you eat any cereal; for it

is a cereal food. Children love it.

Or you can add to it any cereal you eat. The im-
portant thing is to eat some of it every day — and to
be sure that you get Kellogg's Krumbled Bran.

You will know it by the familiar red and green "Wax-
tite" package, similar to that of Kellogg's Toasted
Corn Flakes, bearing the signature of W. K. Kellogg.

Try Kellogg's Krumbled Bran now. Buy a package from your grocer.
Eat it at breakfast as a cereal. Make muffins, bread, pancakes, etc., with
it. Recipes on each package. You will find them most delicious, too.

Kello$£ Toasted Com Flake Co.
Battle Creek Mich.. Tbronto.Can

— mt -—-»-— — e —

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391

AMERICAN COOKERY

Double the
Convenience

cf your
Electn'citip

w^w^^.

Make your single sockets double workers! Jo
get two uses at once from an electric light socket
is often a necessity— always a convenience. The

B£N/A»L!N

w o -^w yx>"

F»L.4JC

BENJAMIN

fits any single socket. Turns it into two instantly.

With it, you can use any appliance by day without
the inconvenience of removing the light — and by
night with the added advantage of light. Millions
now in use. Descriptive folder free on request.

Every Wired Home Needs Three or More

At your dealer's

[OR. «1.25 EACH

Made only by

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago New York

San Francisco

NO. 92

P£— I

W***

Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Holder makes it easy to use any shade with your Benjamin Two-Way
Plug. Price 15 cents.

Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug screws into any electric socket without twisting the cord.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

392

ADVERTISEMENTS

>he ^ea^on of ©ood Cheer
catlg for the choicest of
5006 things to eat.TOtteoife
Certified <Ham,3Bacon and other
Certified product? measure up to
the standard^ of excellence which
the JHolidaUjjai bring to mmd.j#s%

Eheij are ^elected, handled and
prepared with the regpect ijour
oum mother toould $how toward
them, the ^il^on Certified
$abel t# an expregpion of that
(Bood Will and (Boob <Seroice
u?hich add# to (Bood Cheer..B%

"Jto&mafck.

v\ m n

WILSON & CO.

X/ v/

yout gua/iaatee"

\jj-difr&>^ -CaAeJL 4o*ot£cJ5d -tyuxisr -£a&€&~

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

393

AMERICAN COOKERY

IKH0M ffBUE

IN TINS

VARIETIES

8 Varieties

Kraft
Chile
Swiss
Pimento

Rarebit
Camembert
Roquefort
Limbur&er

GOOD cheese is meat — the food prop-
erties are almost identical — and is
becoming in America, as it lon& has been
in Europe, a staple of the meal, not merely
a tidbit or dessert. Combined with many
other foods, it helps add variety to your
table and gjves the family more nourish-
ment at less cost.

Because of the exclusive Kraft process of
sterilizing, Elkhorn Cheese in
Tins is always uniform and al-
ways &ood. Stock up now.

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO.

NEW YORK CHICAGO

If your dealer does not have Elkhorn Cheese in
Tins, send his name and 10c in stamps or coin for
sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or
20c for both. Illustrated hook of recipes free.
Address 361-3 River St., Chicago, Illinois.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

394

ADVERTISEMENTS

COCOANUT SNOWBALLS

4 cups powdered sugar
1 egg-white, beaten
4 tablespoons water

1 cup Dromedary Cocoanut
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
5 teaspoon lemon extract

Mix sugar, white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, and water,
then add Dromedary Cocoanut, vanilla and lemon ex-
tracts. Beat until stiff, then mold into small balls. Lay
on waxed paper and set in a cool place to harden. Serve,
if desired, in bon-bon cases. Cocoanut fudge and penuche
are also delicious.

COCOANUT AND CHOCOLATE CREAM ROCKS

1 pound sugar 1 cup Dromedary Cocoanut

5 cupful water Few drops vanilla extract

j teaspoon cream of tartar 2 squares unsweetened choc-
olate melted
Boil sugar, water, and cream of tartar three minutes after
actual boiling commences; remove from fire and stir until
the sirup becomes cloudy, then add Dromedary Cocoanut.
Flavor one half of mixture with extract, and flavor second
half with chocolate. Drop from a spoon in rocky cakes on
waxed paper.

HOME MADE CANDIES— IDEAL CHRISTMAS GIFTS

Cocoanut Candies are easy to make successfully
and everyone likes them.

Flavor and freshness are the important points in
good cocoanut candies.

Dromedary Cocoanut insures against disappoint-
ment because it is always fresh, moist, and full-flavored.

Open an "Ever-Sealed" package and taste it —
not too dry — not too moist — but just as it is when
you grate it yourself — and all the hard work done.
Every package contains Guarantee.

Many novel candy recipes will be found in the
latest Dromedary Cook Book. Write today for Free
copy — help Santa Claus make this a candy Christmas.

The HILLS BROTHERS Co.

Department G 375 Washington St., New York

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
395

AMERICAN COOKERY

I *fef.

..^Tr

*«*;:

.»» r^rfT-^JH

COFFEE TAPIOCA

3 cups hot coffee, 1-2 cup Minute Tapi-
oca, 1-2 cup sugar, 1-4 teaspoonf ul salt.
Bo'l 15 minutes. Serve cold with
vanilla-flavored whipped cream.

No -So

SERVE IT OFTEN

Minute Tapioca is an energy-building
food of which the family never tires. It is
so delicate that it blends and brings out the
full flavor of the fruit or other ingredients
with which you use it. Easily digested, it
is as good for dyspeptic Uncle John and
tiny Mary as it is for every one else.

Coffee Tapioca is an excellent way to use
up the coffee which is left over from break-
fast. Save the coffee in the ice-chest until
you have the amount required.

Give your family Minute Tapioca ovei
and over again. It is one of the best food!
for building up health and strength. It call
be used in such a number of dessertsj
salads, soups, and entrees that it will neve
have the flat flavor of monotony.

Minute Tapioca is always ready for usei
and may be thoroughly cooked in fifteen
minutes. Be sure that the familiar red an<|
blue package is always on your pantr;|
shelf.

The NEW Minute Coo\ Boo\ has many new receipts
for the use of Minute Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. We
will gladly send it to you on request.

Minute Tapioca Company, 112 Washington St., Orange, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

396

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Only Coconut
Canned in its

Own Milk

Try Making This
Coconut Pie

1 cupful Baker's 2 level table-
Canned Coco- spoonfuls corn-
nut (pressed starch (or flour)
from milk) 2 eggs
$ to J cupful Pinch of salt
granulated sugar

1 cupful coconut milk'and'milk

Add beaten egg yolks and corn-
starch to milk, place over slow fire
and stir until cooked thick. Re-
move from fire and add about 2-3
of the coconut.

Pour into one large (or two small)
baked crusts and cover with stiffly
beaten egg whites, to which two or
three tablespoonfuls of powdered
or granulated sugar have been
added. Sprinkle coconut on top
and brown quickly in oven.

Note — If meringue pie is not
wanted, omit cornstarch and use
eggs unseparated in mixture.

P. S. — If Baker's Coconut
is not obtainable at your
dealer's, send 15c in stamps
for full-size can. Please
give your grocer's name.

T>AKER'S — that's the coconut
which makes this pie so rich in
flavor — so luscious with the true
taste of the fresh nut. For Baker's
Coconut is the only ready-grated
kind which is packed in a can in its
own milk, and it is this milk which
preserves the taste of the newly
picked nut.

Many Other Coconut Recipes

just as appetizing, are in our new Recipe Booklet,
which will be sent you, and any friends you mention,
FREE on request.

The Franklin Baker Co.
Philadelphia, Pa.

BAKERS

&fAS COCONUT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

397

AMERICAN COOKERY

A Perfect Knife
for Grape Fruit

.No. 10. U. S. Patent 48236

The blade of this knife is made from highly tempered, high quality, cutlery steel, curved so as to
remove center and to cut cleanly and quickly around the edge, dividing the fruit in segments ready
for eating. An added feature is the round end which prevents cutting the outer skin. The
popularity of grapefruit is growing so rapidly that this knife for time saving and handiness is a
necessity. For sale at the best dealers. If not found with your hardware dealer we would be
glad to send by mail, providing dealer's name is sent, with 50 cents, which covers cost of
postage.

THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. Sole Manufacturers WINSTED, CONN.

Established 1856

Trade Mark "EMPIRE" Registered U. S. Patent Office.

Postage

Paid to

Any

Address

m the

United

States

An Easy and Delightful
Way to Solve Many
Christmas Gift Problems

Send us names of all friends to whom
you wish to give an inexpensive but
ever-lasting Christmas Gift — with a
check or money order for the proper
amount; and we will mail an

IDEAL NUT CRACKER

to each one, with a pleasant letter
telling who is playing "Santa
Claus ' thru us.

The "Ideal" cracks any Pecan,
Walnut, Brazil Nut, Filbert, etc.,
with a quick and easy twist of
the wrist, bringing out the kernel
whole.

Style 2.
Style 4.

50c

Plain nickel plated
Highly polished nickel
plated 75

FRANK B. COOK CO., 320 Madison St.. Chicago, III.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHM ANN'S YEAST

AGNr

CAST

ALUMINUM

An Xraas Suggestion
This beautiful Colonial Paul Re-
vere Sauce Pan (2 pints)
Polished
Rubberoid
Handle-a

gift t hat g . Sent pre-

combines ■ m\ paid for £2.25

beauty with ^L W& where we have

usefulness. ^kfrgffiP*^ no dealer.

Nothing better typifies the everlasting
spirit of the Christmas season than Wagner
Cast Aluminum — the "Sterling" of the kitch-
en. Its purity, its cleanliness, its beauty of
form and silvery sheen make it the ideal gift.

Every utensil is cast (not stamped or spun)
in one solid, seamless piece. It neither chips
nor warps. Acids do not discolor it. Its
worth becomes more evident with the passing
of the years.

The name WAGNER cast in the bot-
tom of every piece is your guarantee.

e»

»ap>»%«i^vr%»

THE WAGNER

Department 74

MANUFACTURING CO.

SIDNEY, OHIO

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

398

ADVERTISEMENTS

Delicious Spiced Ham

is always tempting — whether you elect to serve
it hot — or cold. But for goodness sake — be
sure to use

Stickney & Poor's
Spices and Mustard

when cooking and serving it. No other seasonings add such spicy fra-
grance— no other condiments bring out the inherent goodness of the ham.
For more than a century, Stickney & Poor's Mustards, Spices, Seasonings
and Flavorings have enjoyed the approval of New England housewives
because of their unfailing purity, quality and fine flavor. You 11 find
them best for every seasoning purpose. Ask your grocer for Stickney &
Poor's — always. Then you'll be certain of satisfaction.

Your co-operating servant

MUSTARDPOT

Stickjsey & Poor Spice Company

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919
Muslard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

399

AMERICAN COOKERY

IVORY SOAP FLAKES— Ivory Soap may also be
had in flaked form, thus giving you this absolutely
SAFE cleanser in the most convenient form for fine
laundering. Sample package free on request to The
Procter & Gamble Co., Dept. i-L, Cincinnati, O.

*^t^

IT FLOATS

TVORY SOAP has all

■*■ the good qualities that
anybody could want in
a soap for personal use.
It is mild ; it is white ; it
is pure; it is delicately
fragrant; it lathers copi-
ously; it does not dry
on the skin; it rinses
easily and completely;
and it FLOATS.

IVORY SOAP

99&s°/o PURE

CCPYR'GHT 1S1S Br THE PROCTER & 6«MBL€ CO., C'SC'NMATI

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

400

ADVERTISEMENTS

Household "HELP" Sisters

^lMHAT is what we call our
-*~ two courses and books,
"Lessons in Cooking" and
"Household Engineering." One
helps with the cooking, the other
with the housekeeping, and they
help each other with both. The
combination is a wonderful help
to the progressive homemaker.
They easily

544 pp.. I34lllus., 5* x 8 in.
Rich Green f Leather Style,
Gold Stamped, Marbled Edges
Price $2.50, postage 14c.

Household Engineering,

Scientific Management in the
Home

By Mrs. Christine Frederick

1 The Labor-Saving Kitchen

2 Plans and Methods

3 Helpful Household Tools

4 Methods of Cleaning

5 Food and Food Planning

6 Practical Laundry Work

7 Family Finance, Records

8 Efficient Purchasing

9 The Servantless Household

10 Management of House Work-

ers

1 1 Planning the Efficient Home

12 Health and Efficiency

Save

V3 Your time
^Your money

CONTENTS

OTH "sisters" were
born and reared for
our correspondence students
and have been tried out and
proved by thousands of
homemakers. Thev come
to you most highly recom-
mended. Their new dress
is of deep green Fabrikoid,
wear and weather proof,
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trimming. They are very
handsome sisters!

500 pp., Illus. Half-tone Plates,

Deep Green | Leather Style,

Gold Stamped, Marbled Edges.
Price $2.50, postage 14c.

4 Lessons in Cooking,

Through Preparation of Meals

)

By Robinson If Hammel

Twelve (12) Weeks' Menus of 21
Meals, for each month, with all
recipes and full directions for
preparing each meal.

Twelve (12) Menus and Direc-
tions for Special Dinners,
Luncheons, Suppers, etc.

Twelve (12) Special Articles —
Serving, Dish Washing, Candy
Making, Fireless Cooking,
Kitchen Conveniences, etc.

Twelve (12) Summaries of Food
Values, Ways of Reducing
Costs; also Balanced Diet,
Food Units, Helpful Sugges-
tions, etc.

How they work for you! For years and years, as long as you live!

And for only 10 cents a week for a year!

As backing for our "Help Sisters
will give you, for one year

SENT ON A WEEK'S TRIAL

Membership Free

a. All your personal questions answered.

b. All Domestic Science books loaned.

c. Use of our Purchasing Department.

d. Bulletins and Economv Letters.

e. Full credit on our home-study Pro-
fessional or Homemaker's Courses.

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, CHICAGO, ILL.

A. S. H. E., 503 W. 69th Street, Chicago, 111.

Send your "Help Sisters" at once, prepaid.
I enclose $5 in full payment (OR), I send 50c
(stamps) and will pay $1 per month for 5 months.
Membership to be included for 1 year.

If I do not like your "Help Sisters,'" I will
return them in 7 days and you are to refund in
full, at once.

Name

Address

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

401

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV JANUARY, 1920 No. 6

CONTENTS FOR JANUARY

PAGE

BRINGING SPRINGTIME INDOORS IN WINTER. 111.

Jane Vos 411

OWNING ONE'S OWN. Ill Ruth Fargo 415

STRANDED Phoebe D. Rulon 419

SERVING FOODS ATTRACTIVELY . . . Emma Gary Wallace 423
THE YOUNGEST BRIDE AND THE HOUSEHOLD GOSPEL

Mrs. Margery Fifield 426
NEW YEAR'S CAKES OF LONG AGO . . . Elizabeth Kimball 428

EDITORIALS 430

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers 433
MENUS, SIMPLE, WELL-BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN

JANUARY Mary D. Chambers 441

MENUS, A PAGE OF BREAKFASTS . . . Mary D. Chambers 442
TO RAISE A FAMILY IN WHOSE ARTERIES THE BLOOD

LEAPS KurtHeppe 443

SOLVING A PROBLEM IN HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS

Robert H. Moulton 445

THE RENEGADE 7 Donald F. R. MacGregor 446

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — The Cluttered House —
Penny Saved is Penny Earned — Honey Desserts — Two Choice
Cookies — Pound Cake — 'An Artistic, Inexpensive Breakfast

Room — ■ Washing Lace 447

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 451

THE SILVER LINING 458

MISCELLANEOUS 462

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year £ 15c A Copy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

402

ADVERTISEMENTS

Start Nineteen Twenty

with the best cooking and household
guide, and you will add comfort
and happiness to the daily meals.

That guide is Mrs. S. T. Rorer. Her books contain the re-
sults of years of careful study, experience in teaching and
lecturing, and in experimental work. She never guesses.
Her recipes are absolutely sure. Mistakes cannot be made if
directions are followed. You not only get a dependable
guide for 1920, but for many years to come.

MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK

A wonderful book containing over 700 pages of original, choice recipes. There arc
also instructions how to market, cook, and serve, how to carve; and various other items
of household affairs.

Cloth/prcfusely[iIIustrated, $2.50; by'mailj$2.70

MRS. RORER' S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK

A splendid book for the newly married, or beginner — as well as for the experienced
cook. Crammed full of the best things in cookery.

Cloth,[$1.50&by mail,[$1.65

MRS. RORER'S EVERYDAY MENU BOOK

Now is the time to start with this book. Contains a menu for every meal in the year!
Also menus for Holidays, Weddings, Luncheons, Receptions, etc., with illustrations
and menus.

Cloth,[$1.50; by[mail, $1.65

VEGETABLE COOKERY AND MEAT

SUBSTITUTES

The best'of the ordinary ways ofcooking and serving our vegetables, and very many
new and delightful ways. An astonishing thing is the novel, tasty, and dainty dishes
at our command to use in place of meat.

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Buy advertised Good* - Do not accept substitutes

403

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR JANUARY

Bringing Springtime Indoors in Winter
Editorials .

Home Ideas and Economies .
Menus ....

New Year's Cakes of Long Ago

Owning One's Own

Renegade, The

Serving Foods Attractively

Solving a Problem in Household Economics

Stranded ......

To Raise a Family in Whose Arteries the Blood Leaps
Youngest Bride and the Household Gospel, The

PAGE
411

430
447
441,442
428
415
446
423
445
419
443
426

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Apples, Stuffed ....
Cake, Chocolate (Exchange Style). 111.
Canapes. 111. ....

Chicken Supreme en Surprise. 111. .
Dinner, New England Boiled. 111. .
Eggs, Spanish ....

Halibut, Turbans of, French Fried Potatoes

111

Ham, Smothered ....
Icing for Chocolate Cake
Mayonnaise, Mock

Pie, Shepherd's, of Beef and Oysters. Ill
Rarebit, Olive ....

Rolls, Finger ....

437
439
439
434
436
434

436
434
440
438

434
436
437

Rolls, Sausage-and-Veal. 111.
Salad, Date-and-Banana. 111.
Salad, Stuffed Peach
Salad, Yankee Potato. 111.
Sandwiches, Cheese-and-English-Walnut.
111. .

Sandwiches, Mint
Sandwiches, Pimiento
Sausage with Apple Rings.
Soup, Clear .
Soup, Emergency .
Timbale, Cold Apple
Toast, Cinnamon. 111. .

111.

434

438
439
437

440
440
440
437
433
433
438
439

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Almonds, to blanch, brown, and salt

Beef Olives with Apples

Cake, Sour Cream

Filling, Pineapple, for Layer Cake

Five O'clock Tea, Menu for] .

Jujubes, Raspberry

Mincemeat without Meat

452
454
456
456
451
451
452

Oysters, Jellied

Pastilles, Orange .

Sunday Night Supper Dishes

Toasts for Dinner Occasions

Turkish Delight .

Veal Loaf with Little Meat

454
452
454
451
452
454

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

404

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Boston Cooking School
Cook Book

By Fannie Merritt Farmer

133 illustrations. 600 pages. $2.50 net

Cooking For Two

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

GIVES in simple and concise style those
things that are essential to the proper
selection and preparation of a reasonable
variety of food for the family of two indi-
viduals. Menus for a week in each month of
the year are included.

With 130 illustrations. $2.00 net

Table Service

By Lucy G. Allen

A CLEAR, concise and yet comprehensive
exposition of the waitress' duties.
Recommended by the American Library
Association: — "Detailed directions on the
duties of the waitress, including care of dining
room, and of the dishes, silver and brass, the
removal of stains, directions for laying the
table, etc."

Fully Illustrated. $1.30 net

■I

Kitchenette Cookery

By Anna Merritt East

HERE the culinary art is translated into
the simplified terms demanded by the
requirements of modern city life. The young
wife who studies the book carefully may be
able to save herself and her husband from
dining in restaurants. Miss East, formerly
the New Housekeeping Editor of The Ladies'
Home Journal presents a book which will be
of great value to all city dwellers." — Nezv
York Sun. Illustrated. $1.23 net

Cakes, Pastry & Dessert Dishes

By Janet McKenzie Hill

Salads, Sandwiches and
Chafing Dish Dainties

By Janet McKenzie Hill
t<li>|ORE than a hundred different varie-
XVX ties of salads among the recipes —
salads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of
vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of
different ways." — Washington Times.
Nezv Edition. Illustrated. $2.00 net

The Party Book

Invaluable to Every Hostess

By Winnifred Fales and

Mary H. Xorthend

T contains a little of everything about
parties from the invitations to the enter-
tainment, including a good deal about
refreshments" — New York Sun.
With numerous illustrations from photo-
graphs. $2.30 net

►Sir ■')!/

£ ; j '; 1

1IL

OUR COMPLETE CATALOG OF COOK
BOOKS WILL BE MAILED ON REQUEST

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405

AMERICAN COOKERY

Books on Household Economics

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent postpaid
upon receipt of price.

A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace

Fletcher $1.25

A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers .75
American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.50
American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef,
veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted on

cloth and rollers 10.00

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup.... 1.00
Art and Economy in Home Decorations.

Priestman 1.00

Art of Entertaining. Madame Merri. . . 1.00
Art of Home Candy- Making (with ther-
mometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00

Art of Right Living. Richards 50

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband.

Weaver and LeCron. 2.00

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the

Home. H. W. Conn 1.32

Better Meals for Less Money. Greene 1.35
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . . 1.60
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. . 2.00
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.

Fannie M. Farmer 2.50

Bread and Bread-Making. Mrs. Rorer . .75
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .75
Business, The, of the Household. Taber 2.50
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 1.00
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts.

King 1.50

Cakes, Pastry and Dessert Dishes. Janet

M. Hill 2.00

Candies and Bonbons. Neil 1.25

Candy Cook Book. Alice Bradley 1.25

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.00
Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making.

^ Hill 1.25

Canning, Preserving and Pickling.

Marion H. Neil 1.25

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E.

Holt, M.D 1.00

Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.25

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland 2.50

Chafing-Dish Possibilities. Farmer.... 1.25
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn. . 2.00
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu

Williams 1.50

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning.

Richards and Elliot 1.00

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 2.00
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition.

Sherman 2.00

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman 1.20

Clothing for Women. L. I. Baldt 2.50

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill. . . .75
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . 2.00

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00

Cost of Shelter. Richards $1.00

Course in Household Arts. Sister

Loretto B. Duff i.io

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer i.oo

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity.

Thompson i#25

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3.00

Domestic Art in Women's Education.

Cooley i,4o

Domestic Science in Elementary

Schools. Wilson 1.00

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon... 2.00

Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 1.00

Easy Entertaining. Benton 1.50

Economical Cookery. Marion Harris

Neil i#75

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid to

Cooking. Robertson 1.00

Efficient Kitchen. Child. 1.25

Elements of the Theory and Practice of

Cookery. Williams and Fisher 1.20

Encyclopaedia of Foods and Beverages. 10.00
Equipment for Teaching Domestic

Science. Kinne 80

Etiquette of New York Today. Learned 1.50

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 75

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer. .. . 1.50
Every Woman's Canning Book. Hughes .75

Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.25

Feeding the Family. Rose 2.10

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R.

Manning 1.00

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Con-
valescent. Fannie M. Farmer 2.00

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thompson 1.35

Food and Flavor. Finck 2.00

Food and Household Management.

Kinne and Cooley 1.20

Food and Nutrition. Bevier and Ushir 1.00

Food Products. Sherman 2.40

Food and Sanitation. Forester and

Wigley 1.00

Food and the Principles of Dietetics.

Hutchinson 4.00

Food for the Worker. Stern and Spitz. 1.00
Food for the Invalid and the Convales-
cent. Gibbs 75

Food Materials and Their Adultera-
tions. Richards 1.00

Food Study. Wellman 1.10

Food Values. Locke 1.50

Franco-American Cookery Book. D61iee 3.50
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for

Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00

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406

ADVERTISEMENTS

Handbook for Home Economics. Flagg $0.75
Handbook of Hospitality for Town and

Country. Florence II. Hall 1.50

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A.

Boland 2.00

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price,

M.D 1.50

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd. . . .60
Home and Community Hygiene.

Broadhurst 2.50

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer 75

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.75

Home Economics Movement 75

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00

Home Furnishings, Practical and Artis-
tic. Kellogg 2.00

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.10

Home Problems from a New Standpoint 1.00
Home Science and Cook Book. Anna

Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00

Homes and Their Decoration. French.. 3.00

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75

House Furnishing and Decoration.

McClure and Eberlein 1.50

House Sanitation. Talbot 80

Housewifery. Balderston 2.50

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan . . . 2.40
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50
Household Engineering. Christine Fred-
erick 2.00

Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. . 1.30

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25

Housekeeper's Handy Book. Baxter. . 1.00
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. Neil 1.25
How to Cook for the Sick and Convales-
cent. H. V. S. Sachse 1.50

How to Feed Children. Hogan 1.00

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. Rorer .75

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer 1.00

I Go a Marketing. Sowle 1.75

Institution Recipes. Emma Smedley. . 3.00

Interior Decorations. Parsons 4.00

International Cook Book. Filippini. . . . 1.50
Key to Simple Cookery. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.25

King's Caroline Cook Book 1.50

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50

Kitchenette Cookery. Anna M. East. . . 1.25
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. Rose 1.10
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara-
tion of Meals 2.00

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary

C. Jones 1.00

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.50

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs.

Rorer 75

Marketing and Housework Manual.

S. Agnes Donham 1.75

Mrs. Allen's Cook Book. Ida C. Bailey

Allen 2.00

More Recipes for Fifty. Smith 1.50

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer 2.00

New Hostess of Today. Larned 1.60

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer 1.00

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice.

Isabels and Robb $2.00

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster. . 1.00

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00

Old Time Recipes for Home Made

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50

Philadelphia Cook Book. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.50
Planning and Furnishing the House.

Quinn 1.00

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving.

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs.

Janet M. Hill 3.00

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 6.00
Practical Dietetics with Reference to

Diet in Disease. Patte 2.00

Practical Food Economy. Alice Gitchell

Kirk 1.35

Practical Points in Nursing. Emily A.

M. Stoney 1.75

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking.

Allington 1.50

Principles of Chemistry Applied to the

Household. Rowley and Farrell 1.25

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary

D. Chambers 1.00

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan 1.75
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances

Lowe Smith 1.50

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.50

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 2.00

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 75

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards 60

School Feeding. Bryant 1.50

Selection and Preparation of Food.

Brevier and Meter 75

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman. . 1.50
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.20
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food

Products. Bailey 1.60

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn 50

Successful Canning. Powell 2.50

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.35

Table Service. Allen 1.50

Textiles. Woolman and McGowan 2.00

The Chinese Cook Book. Shin Wong

Chan 1.50

The Housekeeper's Apple Book. L. G.

Mackay 1.00

The New Housekeeping. Christine Fred-
erick 1.25

The Party Book. Fales and Northend. . 2.50

The St. Francis Cook Book 5.00

The Story of Textiles 3.00

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet

M. Hill 1.60

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J.

Richardson 1.00

Till the Doctor Comes and How to Help

Him 1.00

True Food Values. Birge 1.00

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Sub-
stitutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade-
laide Keen 1.75

Women and Economics. Charlotte Per-
kins Stetson 1.50

Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

407

AMERICAN COOKERY

ESTABLISHED 1887

IMPORTERS"' VANILLA BEANS

ETC. MTR'S.o' SPECIAL BRANC3

EXTRACTS & DRUGS

SALES OFFICES

NEW YORK

BOSTON

CHICAGO

Richmond. Va.-

Kw>Oi[«.iA

TO THE TRADE:

Recently we celebrated the 32nd anniversary of the founding of the C. F. Sauer Company
by introducing into full participation in the business C. F. Sauer, Jr., son of the founder, who
on this occasion broke ground for an addition to our present factory, to double our capacity.

Since the beginning of 1887 the business has been under active control and management
of the founder, C. F. Sauer, and it is a matter of pride to us that many customers have been doing
business with us continuously for all these years.

Adopting at the outset QUALITY as our ideal, our standard has always been so high that
when the Pure Food Laws were passed in 1906 we did not have to change a single formula to
conform to those standards.

A great many of our goods have been double strength for years, some have been
considerably higher than this, depending upon the class of goods and the needs of the
trade. We have never advertised this fact, and only mention it now because some other
manufacturers are claiming credit for putting out double strength goods, which state-
ment is more or less misleading.

Take Vanilla, for instance, we have tried different methods, but still stick to our original
method, which requires about two years from the time the beans are bought until put out in form
of extract. We believe this gives us best results.

Vanilla is a most delicate flavor. It is FLAVOR that counts, and it is FLAVOR that we
sell; not laboratory analysis. Chemists cannot isolate and weigh such an intangible, ethereal
thing as flavor.

If better flavors could be made, Sauer would have made them — but

Sauer's process and Sauer's quality have stood the tests of every pure food standard and
expert; but best of all, have stood the test of the final authority, the American housewife.

Sauer's is the largest selling brand in the U. S., because of the quality, and is the "One
Best Bet" for the wide-awake retailer.

It is this QUALITY that has won for us at Seventeen Great American and European
Expositions, Seventeen Highest Awards for Purity, Strength and Fine Flavor.

We take this opportunity to thank our friends and customers for their confidence, and to
express the hope that we may continue to have their patronage and to promise that the quality
of Sauer's Extracts will always be the highest it is possible to produce.

THE C. F. SAUER COMPANY.

C. F. Sauer,
President.

WE OWN AND OPERATE TWO GLASS FACTORIES.
WHICH FACILITATE THE HANDLING OF OUR
BOTTLES.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

408

A Receipt for Salad

To make this condiment your poet begs

The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs;

Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve,

Smoothness and softness to the salad give;

Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,

And, half suspected, animate the whole;

Of mordant mustard add a single spoon,

Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;

But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault

To add a double quantity of salt;

Four times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown,

And twice with vinegar, procured from town;

And lastly, o'er the flavored compound toss

A magic soupcon of anchovy sauce.

O green and glorious! O herbaceous treat!

'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat;

Back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul,

And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl;

Serenely full, the epicure would say,

"Fate cannot harm me — I have dined today."

Sydney Smith.

American Cookery

VOL. XXIV

JANUARY

No. 6

Bringing Springtime Indoors in Winter

By Jane Vos

THERE are several little mission-
aries in both the floral and bulb
families, divinely appointed, it
seems, to give us comfort and cheer dur-
ing the winter months when their out-
door relatives of the crocus, trillium,
hyacinth, and daffodil families are hidden
away under snowy coverlets. Most
bulbs, of course, require fall planting in
order to mature in March and April;
but even if one has been neglectful, there
is still an alternative. A winter window-
garden may be started as late as January,
and a succession of blooms joy the heart
of the belated gardener.

Have your Jack-of-all-Trades fit a
box to the window of your living-room
where it will receive the most sunlight.
Plants, like human beings, require sun-
shine, fresh air, and water. Their habits,
too, need to be studied as carefully as
those of children, if you wish to become
acquainted with them and their specific
needs. Paint the box a dark woods
green, and fill with rich earth. Now fill
with a uniform row of scarlet, pink, or
white geraniums, but do not mix these
shades. There is no other plant that
lends so cheerful a color note to a living-
room in winter as the red geranium.
Even if these joy-givers must be planted
in homely pots, kegs, or pails, these re-
ceptacles may be painted green, and when
the plants are a mass of bloom in the
window against their snowy background
beyond, the former will be forgotten.

If the window-box be preferred without,
rather than within, fill it with American
arbor vitae, boxwood, or small cedars.
All during the balance of the winter

months the birds will make of this
miniature forest their trysting place,
and Grown Ups as well as Little Folks
will enjoy nothing better than watching
the wee feathered friends who accept
the hospitality of its shelter. One family
of bird-lovers call their outdoor window-
garden a "Free Lunch Counter," and
here they entertain the same birds and
squirrels year after year.

Personally, I have never discovered
any indoor flowering plants that give me
quite as much satisfaction as bulbs, and
with but one exception we have always
managed to have a succession of blooms
from Thanksgiving until Easter. That
year it was after New Year's when we
returned to our northern domicile, and
among our first homing thoughts was our
winter window-garden.

Two dozen Chinese Sacred lilies at a
dollar a dozen were started at once, and
we often said afterwards that we never
invested two dollars that brought us
so much real pleasure. From three to

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A POT OF FERNS

411

412

AMERICAN COOKERY

five of these bulbs were planted in six
large-sized, green Japanese bowls, four
inches deep. The bulbs were filled in
with small pebbles and shells, carefully
hoarded from year to year. Even they
have their memories, as they have been
gathered on various pleasure jaunts to
the antipodes. In placing the pebbles
to hold the bulbs in place we were care-
ful to do so in such a way that the roots
would not raise them too high above the
water. The latter, of course, should
reach halfway up the side of the bulb.

We always set our bulbs away in a
dark place for a few days to encourage
root growth. They take such a prompt
start, however, that the six or eight weeks
of darkness prescribed for other potted
bulbs, such as Roman hyacinths, Von
Sion narcissus, and crocuses, is impossible.

By starting new bowls of bulbs two
weeks apart there is sure to be continu-
ous bloom. To be sure, these blossoms
are a transitory pleasure, but they give
so much satisfaction while they do last
that they amply repay one for the slight
expenditure. As to growing them, this
is no trouble at all, as they perform the

feat themselves, aside from a daily drink
of tepid water.

We have never failed to have Chinese
lilies or narcissi in bloom three weeks
from the time of planting, each bulb send-
ing up several stems, with from eight to
twelve flowers on each, an inch and a
half across.

When they commence to bloom, we
give them a drink of cold water daily,
instead of tepid water, and diligently
watch for faded blooms. The sym-
phony must not be marred. For three
or four weeks we have fresh lilies for
our dining-room table, as well as in our
window-garden. Moreover, the green
leaves are so beautiful that we never
throw them awav, even after the last
blossom has disappeared. The blossom
stems are cut off and fresh water added
to the bowl daily, thus keeping them
green as long as possible. When yel-
lowish edges begin to appear, they are
carefully trimmed with a pair of sharp
scissors. By and by, the bulbs are cut
off, as they are now useless, and their
roots take up too much room in the
bowl, crowding the pebbles out. All

WINDOW BOX OF SCARLET GERANIUMS; ROSE TREES AT EACH END

SPRINGTIME INDOORS IN WINTER

413

ANY OXE CAN MAKE

the green leaves are therefore placed to-
gether in an ornamental pitcher, in order
to hold them upright, and this recep-
tacle is set at one end of the mantel be-
fore a Chinese Chippendale mirror.
Here they reflect their verdant beauty
until nearly springtime, if fresh water be
given them daily.

Many people confuse Chinese Sacred
lilies with Paper White Narcissi. The
latter have pure white cups and petals,
also, but the flowers are larger. The
lilies are single, and have waxen white
petals. The Empress is double yellow;
the Narcissus is bright yellow with a cup
of a darker shade, several flowers to the
stem. The latter is a close relative to the
Chinese lily, and is almost a counterpart,
except in color.

While any of the foregoing will thrive
in earth, we prefer to grow them in water,
as they appear so much more artistic
with the attractive pebbles and shells
about them, especially where these are
colored. If planted in early January,
you will have blooms by the middle of
February, at the latest, earlier if there is
moisture in the room. A bowl of water
on a radiator will create the necessary
moisture, and force blooms, generally
in twenty-three days.

A JAPANESE GARDEN

Some of the early varieties of the Due
\ on Thai tulips can be raised in water the
same as lilies, narcissi, and hyacinths,
if perfect specimens are chosen. This
can be determined by noting that the skin
of the bulb is a reddish color, the result
of its being grown in the proper sandy
soil.

Crocuses in yellow, white, purple,
streaked and striped varieties are favor-
ites with us for indoor as well as outdoor
planting. We are careful in selecting
bulbs that measure about four inches
around. These cost ten cents apiece,
and under favorable conditions yield
from a half-dozen to a dozen flowers,
each. Plant half a dozen of the corms
in large, shallow boxes or pots and set
them away in the cellar to take root.
When they begin to appear above the
soil, round the middle of February, bring
them up to the light and set in the
window. Within a fortnight the leaves
and buds will break through the sheaths,
lasting until April.

Being nature lovers, we always manage
to bring in a few sprays of pussy-willow
twigs and grow them all winter in our
table-bowl. By January the little buds
are hidden away on their stems under the
snow, but we always find half a dozen

414

AMERICAN COOKERY

twigs to transplant to out window-
garden. Failing to do so, why not buy
a few from the florist and know the
joy of seeing them take root in your
centerpiece? In a short time the baby
catkins will poke out their heads, and
you will have a pussy-willow tree all your
own.

Have you ever known the delight of
forcing a bunch of lilacs into bloom, in
the winter time? If not, cut off a twig
from your favorite lilac tree and watch a
miracle.

Why not have a fern pan filled with
Adiantum Farleynse, or maidenhair
fern? It not only makes a beautiful
window adornment, but it may be used
for a centerpiece on your dining-room
table whenever your fancy indicates.

Rape seed, also, has its place in a winter
window-garden, bringing springtime in-
doors as does nothing else. Buy a few
cents' worth, fill a medium-sized sponge
with water, then drain until it will not
drip. Sprinkle a quantity of the seeds
over the sponge, letting them fall where
they will, and then hang the sponge in
the window of your living-room where it
will get plenty of sunlight. The result

will astonish even the most skeptical,
for in a very short time the sponge will
be a hanging garden of vegetation. Keep
it well sprinkled, but not too wet, else
it will become a nuisance.

Sometimes when our eyes are aweary
for green grass, we fill a couple of baking
pans, shallow ones, of course, with a layer
of earth, then sprinkle oats over the top.
After moistening well, we set the pans
down in a shady corner of the cellar.
In a few days we bring them up to the
windows, and set them where the morning
sun will coax them into a veritable carpet
of green.

In a few days the sight that greets us
is one "for sore eyes." A miracle has
happened. There is an even growth of
the fresh young oats that appears to be
an expanse of well-kept lawn, and we sigh
for the springtime.

Have you ever known the joy of grow-
ing an English Ivy? To be exact and
speak in botanical terms, Ampelopsis
Veitchii. The catalogues make no mis-
take when they tell us that it is the
"grandest" climbing vine in existence.
It is all this and more. Purchase about
four young plants and set them on two

MINIATURE GREENHOUSE OF OUR EMBRYO FLORIST

OWNING ONE'S OWN

415

brackets on either side of the window of
your living-room. In a few weeks the
tender shoots will become more ambitious
and they will want to travel beyond the
window to behold the great world. A
mirror somewhere in the vicinity of the
window may have the ivy trained round
it for a frame, and the rich, glossy leaves
will soon reflect in the glass.

The boy in our house, who loves to
experiment in the growing of plants,
especially in the winter time, has built
a miniature greenhouse minus the glass,
which he can slip on and off his plants
when he waters them. This embryo
■florist has transformed an old billiard
table into a "greensward," its sides built
up to form sufficient depth for soil and
the growing of his pets. It is a clever
conceit, and one that we all enjoy along
with him. It is he who whittles our bird
and bunny sticks for planting in our sev-
eral window-gardens, while Little Sister

paints them from her little water color
box.

We each have our little wall hanging
baskets made of raffia, or of wood painted
to suit our individual tastes, and we vie
with one another growing our favorite
vines and flowers. At the end of the
season we hold a miniature flower show,
inviting in all our intimate friends, to
see what we have accomplished in limited
space, and time. Both grand and booby
prizes are awarded.

Last year, in order to bring springtime
into the home in the winter, we made one
end of our living-room as summery as
possible, using our rattan furniture,
upholstered in its gay cretonnes.

We used the porch for a breakfast
room, painting an old oak set an apple
green. With flowers on the center of our
festal board every morning of our lives
from our own miniature conservatory, we
felt as rich as Crcesus,

Owning Ones Own

By Ruth Fargo

O, ma'am, I can't do it. I can't
let you have the house. I don't
want to spend a good lump sum
on repairs come six months; I got some
other use for my money. — No,
ma'am, I don't think your kids are
any worse'n anybody else's kids. It just
ain't kid-nature to keep things nice —
and these floors, ma'am, I just had done
over new. Anyhow, five's too many for
me," with a lugubrious shake of the head.
That is why we became commuters
when my husband settled into his new
work in a town of some fifteen thousand
inhabitants. WTe couldn't find a house
to live in, not with our five children.
The places I could get, I wouldn't have —
rattle-trap, inconvenient, old-fashioned
barns! And the places I wanted, I

couldn't get. They were all like the
landlord quoted above; and he had the last
available place on my list. What could
we do about it? We had five children,
and we had to live somewhere. Back
home, we had owned our own house; we
had always considered the children in
the light of an asset (darling little assets,
everyone of them), protecting us from the
loneliness of old age. In a new place,
however, five children proved a decided
handicap.

Concealing my chagrin as best I could,
I turned away, took the first trolley car
that came along, and rode to the end of
the line. It was an aimless trip. But
it would not have been profitless, even
had it not brought the surprising re-
sults it did: there is nothing like the

416

AMERICAN COOKERY

A PERFECT PEARL OF A POOL

exhilarating sting of a good stiff breeze to
brush old cobwebs from the brain. By
the time I had reached the end of the run
I was sweet-tempered again, ready to
laugh at the predicaments lying in wait
for a Mother of Five, ready for anything.
Perhaps that is why the first sight of my
pines, as I leaned from the car step, gave
me a thrill of joy. Big and shady and
picturesque they stood, looking as de-

pendable as the law of gravitation; and
right back of them, half-hidden by
greenery, was tucked in a sturdy little
shack, unpainted and needing a porch.
But all of the needs I did not notice just
then, because the whole place seemed to
hold out arms in welcome, seemed to
say: " Five? Why, we don't mind five at
all. Why, five is an adorable number —
we can tuck away five the easiest ever —
and there's no new finish to spoil! Sup-
pose— ■ why, suppose — ?"

Perhaps that is why I dropped down
off the steps. "I'll wait over here till
your next trip out," I told the conductor.

And then I made myself quite at home,
because there was a sign which said
FOR SALE, and because a neighbor-
man with a rake and a very raggedy hat
and a most reassuring smile told me to,
and because I had a sort of prescience
tingling through my bones that this place
was going to mean much to me. I
traveled all over the two acres that went
with the little tumbledy shack of a house;
I sat under the pines and filled my
lungs with the spicy fragrance; I found
the bend in the creek back of the house —
a horseshoe bend that hovered over a
perfect pearl of a pool, sandy-bottomed,
mirror-surfaced, coolly challenging every
one to go a-wading! . . .

"I've discovered an absolute duck of

THE HOUSE AT THE END OF SOME TROLLEY LINE

OWNING ONE'S OWN

417

a place — and it isn't polished — ■ but
there's room for five — -only you'll have
to buy, because it isn't for rent, but it's
abominably cheap — ■ and two heavenly
pines thrown in for good measure!" I
explained to Rodney that evening.

And then we went out to look at it —
because, as Rodney said, we just had to
live somewhere — but Rodney failed to
enthuse abundantly.

"Looks like gnomes lived there," he
grumbled, eyeing the shadowy, moonlit
structure. "Rambles all over the ground
like a squash vine."

"Room for five," prompted I; "plus the
father and mother of five!"

"A fine chance I'd have to relax,"
pursued Rodney, critically. "It would
be me for overalls and a paint pot, post-
haste. And I'd have to put on some
porches, of course."

"Professional men get too little exer-
cise," quoted I.

"Humph!"

"And you could do it after hours —
and vacations."

"I don't know as I am so awfully keen
about such stunts, Sadie May," said my
husband. But I could see he was con-
sidering.

"It's clean as a whistle inside — and
I've picked out a delft blue paper for the
dining-room. Why, the ceiling's so low
I could do it myself. And with a good
stain — "I softly suggested.

"Good as settled," grinned my hus-
band, the middle-aged lines in his face
suddenly giving way to the most boyish
look. "All right! If you can stand it,

can

and
<<

there was actual

I guess

relief in his tone. "Besides, it will be
such fun for the kiddies — little tikes,
they need more room than they get on a
town lot."

"And they won't be teasing all the time
to go play with Arleta Emmons," finished
I.

So that is how we came to live in a little
low house at the end of the trolley line;
a house that rambled around till one had
to^make sure which door one opened, or

one might land in the attic instead of the
wood shed; a house that was cheaper and
shabbier in many ways than any we had
ever lived in before; a house with a
sagging back door that mischievously
inducted one to the crooked well-trod
trail, ending at a perfect pearl of a pond
where pussy-willows preened themselves
in spring, and the laughter of the neo-
phyte five learning to skate broke the
silence in winter.

But it was such a hospitable house.
We had never had anything like it. And
we ended by loving it.

"I wouldn't trade it for a mansion on
the Avenue," affirmed my husband, com-
ing home after dusk one wintry evening.
He had been kept late in town. "I'm
going to take you to the opera just for
the sake of coming home and seeing all
those windows lit up." (By the way, I
could always ask the grown-up daughter
of my raggedy-hatted neighbor-man to
stay with the children. She did it for
ten cents per hour; and studied her
lessons while the little folks slept.)
"Sadie May," went on my husband,
"this is the friendliest house I ever saw.
Why, those windows actually winked at
me — I could see 'em a good bit before I
got here; and it made me sort of sorry for
the fellows back at the office. Most of
'em don't know what a real homey home
is like. Let's have 'em out here."

And we did, and popped corn over the
coals; corn we had grown in our own
garden. For one can do a good bit with
two acres of land. Really, we couldn't
have been happier, had we been million-
aires.

But I am getting ahead of my story,
for I did not wait till wintry days to do
a little entertaining. There was the
Service Club which met alphabetically,
and my "turn" came very soon after I
moved out to the end of the trolley line.
I didn't beg off, as I might, being prac-
tically a new-comer (and new-comers
must come halfway, I have learned, if
they want to get acquainted), and living
beyond the city limits. I entertained.

418

AMERICAN COOKERY

And most everybody came. We over-
flowed from room to room; we took our
cushions out under the pines; we chatted
and sewed, and sewed and chatted, till
I felt as friendly toward every one as if
I had known them all half my life. And
some of the younger ones, following five
little pairs of pattering feet, — Ellen and
Tad and Robert and the twins, — found
the sandy-bottomed brook with its sap-
phire shallows. Of course, they went
wading!

"I never entertained so easily in my
life," I told Rodney that evening. "I
think it is the house. It is so cosy, and
so utterly unpretentious, we simply
couldn't be stiff, or formal, or unfriendly."

"The value of environment," smiled
Rodney.

"And the children didn't even get in
the way. In town, I'm sure I should
have hired a nursemaid to take them to
the park."

"But you could have sent them down
to the brook to play," — with cheery
assurance.

"Oh, they went. They didn't have
to be sent." And then I told Rodney
the rest of the story.

But this was not the only time I en-
tertained easily. I invited out my Sun-
day-school class of young people one
evening a little later. It was bright
moonlight, but we swung gay Japanese
lanterns from the porch to the pines,
and about the refreshment booth under
the trees. Outdoor eating just added
to the fun of the evening. — And
then there was one afternoon when
Ellen's classmates (Ellen is my oldest,
and a regular little mother's maid) came
out for a wading party. Of course, our
delectable little pond furnished that
possibility!

In fact, our pond, with its ripply brook
flowing in and out, has been a source of
delight the whole year round. Even I,
the Mother of Five, have not been able
to resist its allurements; and Rodney ever
delights in producing a picture — Ellen,
and Tad, and I (barefooted, short-

skirted, hair down) — with the sober
inquiry: "Would you think, now, that
was my wife — the Mother of Five?"
— But why should I care? My simple
little home, so unexacting in its re-
quirements, has given me time to be
young with my kiddies; and they are
wild with delight when "mother" comes
out to play. Verily, I believe I have
outrivaled Arleta Emmons in popularity,
since we moved to the end of the trolley.

But even alone, the children find plenty
of amusement; there is ample place to
play. Two hobbyhorses live under the
pines, and a swing for the twins finds a
place in the yard. And Ellen plays
"keep school," or, maybe, picks up pine
needles for pillows — or makes a snow
man. It all depends on the month. There
is always something pleasant to do, from
the time the trilliums go, clear around the
calendar, past dog days and Thanks-
giving fun, past Christmas stockings and
lace paper valentines, past the blusters of
March, which but make our fires burn
brighter, on to the bursting of the pussy-
willow buds again. Always something
pleasant to do! We who have tested
the thing through, we — we know.

Once I said to Rodney: "I'm convinced
of two things. Really two."

"Two — ?" questioned my placid
mate, smiling contentedly.

"Even two," answered I, "and they
are these: The mother of, five should own
her own home. It should be at the end
of a trolley line."

My husband reached over and patted
my hand. "It's a fine little home," he
asseverated serenely, "a lucky little
woman's lucky find. I wouldn't trade
it for a mansion on the Avenue — even
if I do have to shovel snow in the morn-
ing.

Trade for a mansion on the Avenue?
No — indeed, and indeedy, no! That
is the way we feel about it. Yet, some
people long to be millionaires! . But,
then, there is no accounting for tastes. —

Still there come times, certain times,
when deep, deep under my skin a certain

STRANDED

419

elemental sentiment makes its secret known the keen delights furnished by a
self known, and I feel actually sorry for rambling shack of one's own — at the
the sordid sorts of people who have never end of some trolley line.

Stranded

By Phoebe D. Rulon

IT began way back in kMarch when
the landlord 'came to collect the
rent, as he had done on the first
day of the month for thirty years and for
thirty years had gotten it. Put down in
cold figures, thirty dollars per month for
thirty years makes a neat little sum. It
was small wonder then that John Gibbons
felt, in a sense, a sort of proprietary
right to the little two-story affair that
had so long been his home. With his
own hands John had virtually rebuilt
the interior of the house. Further-
more, had he not reclaimed the desert
of a back yard that he found there until
it was redolent of blooms? The stately
Rose of Sharon and the lilac bushes,
together with the clematis and morning
glories, bore testimony to this fact, while
a thousand nodding ramblers on the rose
arbor every June gave added proof. All
during the growing season he would be
found at five o'clock in the morning
working and smoking in his garden.
During the winter months he turned
carpenter, decorator, and general re-
pairer. A small workshop in the rear
was his "rest-awhile" retreat. There
he hammered and sawed to his heart's
content, Mary's satisfaction, and the
house's improvement. Thrifty wives and
handy husbands, what matchless teams
they make! It was a pantry shelf here,
a swinging shelf there, or a window seat
under the otherwise impossible and ugly
window in the "parlor," now the "living-
room." Mary always saw a future for
folks with faults and virtues and furni-
ture with ugliness and good hard wood
in it, — a future quite apart from endless

fire for the one or transient fire for the
other. She did not burn up the old
parlor organ case that went with the
house when they took it. John trans-
formed it into a built-in set of open book
shelves which were ever after a "thing
of beauty and a joy forever." Mary
found the house as well equipped in
closets as a barn, and she said so. Under
her direction and John's handiwork
closets appeared in every room where
necessary and unnecessary partitions
disappeared. A boarded-up stairway in
the main hall gave the house a very in-
hospitable look which John proceeded to
renovate during vacation time of their
first year. From that time on new paper,
paint, and bits of plumbing added in-
trinsic value and homey beauty to the
house. And never a bill to the landlord!
Was he foolish? Nay, he was splendidly
human. He might have done more, he
could not have done less and kept the
soul of John Gibbons — home maker.
He no more thought of the money value
of this work than a Leonardo da Vinci of
the great picture he painted on the walls
of that Italian sanctuary

When they sat at dinner that March
evening, Mary announced that Mr. Gray,
the landlord, had been there; further-
more, he told her the house had been sold
and that the buyer must have possession
in six weeks. If Mary had told him that
the Statue of Liberty had swam across
the Bay and now stood upright in Battery
Park, he could not have looked more sur-
prised.

His home bartered away for money.
Why! he had been putting himself in

420

AMERICAN COOKERY

that house for thirty years. Surely they
would not sell him and drive him out.

John and Mary had together long cher-
ished a dream that they would end their
days here. He had already resigned
from the Mercantile Bank, where he had
made good for thirty-five years, and was
to retire within a month. To this end in-
telligent saving had been going on ever
since Mary came to the house as a bride,
with the result that they could count on a
modest income of a thousand dollars a
year. To awaken to a stern reality after
clutching a beautiful dream is a very
uncomfortable experience, as John found.
He gave up the evening to a vigorous
sort of self-pity and went to bed feeling
that he had been knocked down and
robbed. He awakened the next morning
with a new angle of vision, accepted the
inevitable, and interviewed real estate
agents on his way to the bank. They
all told the same tale, "had not had a
small house on their books for a year."
"Everything snapped up before we can
even hang out a sign. Incoming tenants
sitting on the curb while outgoing tenants
vacate." To divide labors Mary spent
the days hunting possible apartments
with a discouraging story to tell every
night. All their friends became inter-
ested and started a search Mrs. Saun-
ders, a neighbor on the next block, heard
of just the place for the Gibbonses, but
before she could run down and back, it
had been taken. A month of such tur-
moil, without results, decided them to try
out of town for the summer, at least.
Chesterville is a sleepy old town about
fifty miles out from the city, with a
summer colony of middle-class folk as a
suburb. John found a modest, cosey
house untenanted and unspoken for.
He did not parley, he took it at once.

It was like pulling things up by the
roots to move, and by the end of the pro-
cess John and Mary looked as withered
as a pulled bunch of beets that had lain
in the sunlight a couple of days, and they
both felt even more sapless. Mary wept
many a tear over leaving so much of

John's handiwork in the house, and it
took a decided wrench to pull him away
from the rose-arbor that he had built for
Mary on their fifth wedding anniversary.
They were, however, a bit comforted with
the thought that the new owner might
care very much for all their bestowments.

In all the thirty-five years of John
Gibbons' clerkship he had never indulged
in what one might call a real country va-
cation. As a boy he had visited his
grandfather on a farm where hens were
industrious, laid plenty of eggs, and raised
large families; where cows gave pails
brimful of milk so rich in fat content
that churning and butter making was a
daily routine; where pigs flourished
on the left-overs of the dairy and ham and
bacon were an every morning breakfast
dish. Childhood memories are tenacious,
and he recounted them to Mary en route
to Chesterville and told her what they
might expect when they were settled
there. This was decidedly reviving to
their limp spirits, and they began to
question whether or no. their forced
exodus from the city would not turn out
to be a fortunate thing after all. So near
the home market they certainly could get
foodstuffs at first cost and thus sub-
stantially extend their income. By the
time the train whistled for Chesterville
they were actually enthusiastic over the
prospect and their solution of the high
cost of living.

The settling process was much less
nerve racking than breaking up and was
soon accomplished. From the living-
room window could be seen broad acres
of farm land extending in every direction,
dotted with cows, here and there. "That
looks good to me," remarked John at their
first breakfast. "Plenty of good milk
and butter near at hand and no extor-
tionate profiteer to deal with. We shall
really take on a new lease of life, Mary
dear. I also heard a rooster crow
before I was up. That means a barn-
yard and plenty of fresh eggs, for roosters
never lead a bachelor existence." It took
them two days to discover that Chester-

STRANDED

421

villewas near the sea and that they could
now and then catch a glint of water from
their dining-room windows. When John
found this out he rubbed his two hands
together and remarked, "Yours truly for
fresh fish and clam bakes and all for a
song, for there will be no middleman here
to control prices. This surely is a for-
tunate move, little wifey."

During the settling the Gibbonses
lived on the food they brought in a ham-
per from the city, but it soon became
necessary for John to forage for supplies.
He began on the dairy products. Follow-
ing the lure of the tinkling cowbell, he
brought up at a comfortable farm house
with a dozen cows in sight. "Here's my
place for milk and butter in abundance,''
he reflected. But it wasn't. He found
upon inquiry that he was a year too late.
All customers had to make their contracts
a year in advance and go for their own
milk. As for butter, the sweet-faced
farmer's wife remarked, "most of the
Chesterville folks get store butter from
Wisconsin." Nothing daunted, John pro-
ceeded onward, fetching up in plain sight
of a particularly green meadow where
two cows were grazing. Closer inspec-
tion revealed the fact that they were
"tenant cows," so to speak, tethered to a
stake with an allotment of so many square
yards of grass per day. Landless men
and grassless cows — quite a change from
grandfather's day thought John Gibbons
as he sought the owner of the cows, to
learn from him that their entire output
of milk was already engaged. "You see,
it pays better to sell the milk to city
folks during the summer and buy Mellin's
Food for the baby," he confided to John.
He proffered the information that there
was a regular dairy in Chesterville, auto
delivery, modern methods and modern
top-notch prices. But even this supply
was limited, John found upon inquiry, and
they had none for him. It was a very
limp milk pail and a limper-spirited man
that came up the front path after a
three hours' search. Airs. Gibbons took
in the situation at a glance, looked up

brightly and said: "John, I have just read
in the Housewives' Companion that you
can whip evaporated milk into a stiff
froth and also make excellent ice-cream
of it, and for rice pudding it is better than
loose milk! I shall try it at once and
see." Tactful Mary Gibbons never
asked him how he made out until after
dinner, at which meal an evaporated
milk pudding appeared.

It takes more than one defeat to van-
quish a good soldier, so the next morn-
ing John started in the direction of the
rooster's crow in search of fresh eggs.
He returned just before noon with half
a dozen, for which he paid at the rate
of seventy cents a dozen, and was
made to feel that he was "favored of
the gods" to get even that many.
"Eggs is eggs," the farmer told him.
"Feed and labor are both very high and
it is them that regulates the price of eggs.
Hens, too, have a funny way of going on
strikes jest as if they belonged to the
Union. For instance, this flock of fifty
healthy pullets will very soon put their
heads together and restrict their entire
output to a dozen eggs a week, for they
do it every year. Hens won't arbitrate,
and all the time they are on a strike they
are eating their heads off. We have to
reckon on this thing when we make up
the price." Here was a new phase of
the labor problem that John Gibbons had
not met. He wondered if his grandfather
had to wrestle with it. He distinctly
recalled how many nests he used to find
and how many eggs were in them. But,
of course, that was before the days of the
Labor Union!

From the next egg man he learned
that the fashion of "light housekeep-
ing" in our large cities was stripping
the country bare of eggs. "For, you
see, eggs is about the only meat vit-
tals one can cook on one of them gas
contraptions in a hall bedroom. It
has got to such a pass here in Chester-
ville, unless the farmers happen to break
an egg now and then in packing them
they don't have any for their own table."

422

AMERICAN COOKERY

This was not a particularly encouraging
outlook, so John turned his steps home-
ward and rehearsed his morning's ex-
perience. Again Mary was equal to the
emergency and comforted him by a wise
bit of preachment. "Eggs are not an
absolute necessity and they make a lot
of folks bilious," she declared. " Further-
more, I have an excellent 'eggless' cake
recipe that I bought at our church fair,
where Mrs. Emmons demonstrated it.
I shall make one tomorrow."

Friday was fish day at the Gibbonses,
as with the rest of the world. John was
calling to mind that broad expanse of
water stretching out from Chesterville on
two sides and speculating aloud as to
whether the " high-cost-of-living " bogey
had its clutch upon all the fish therein.
Before a conclusion was reached, and
while they still sat at breakfast, James
Garfield — colored — rapped at the
kitchen door, and settled it. James is the
embodiment of leisure both in movement
and utterance, for four generations of
tropic poise control his muscular actions.
There he stood, perfectly relaxed, with
a basket of fish at his side. Here, at
least, is a knee that has not knelt to
"Midas," thought John as he surveyed
the lad. "We sold eels at twenty-five
cents a string last summer, but father says
they must bring forty now, for shoe
leather has gone so high it won't pay to
fish and peddle." He was barefooted!
"How about clams?" John inquired,
for he still had a hankering for a clam
bake. "Clams is high, too," James told
him, "for father says 'a fisherman's time
is worth fifty cents an hour, and one is
never sure of his luck — sometimes it ain't
no luck at all.' " John felt that there was
some logic in this argument, ordered a
dozen clams, and remarked to Mary,
"Let's have a chowder with plenty of
vegetables in it instead of a clam bake."
'You lose half the juice, anyway, before
you can get the clams from their shells
when you roast them in an open bake,"
Mary remarked, "and chowder makes a
much better one-dish meal."

To find milk, butter, eggs, and fish, four
of the staples of sane sustenance, getting
out of reach was decidedly disconcerting
to the Gibbonses; but since John had
more than once walked off a fit of the
blues, he started in search of a butcher.
He found a very good-looking shop, un-
mistakably a butcher's shop, but, alas, as
deserted as a last summer's robin's nest.
Door padlocked and butcher gone to
parts unknown. The nearest meat sup-
ply was miles away from Chesterville.

Here was a new problem. Before John
left the bank all his friends told him he
would find himself a decidedly "back
number," if he attempted to live in the
country without an automobile. He
did not agree with them until he had been
three weeks without so much as a mouth-
ful of fresh meat, and none in sight.
Even then he was not fully convinced.
It took the pressure of accumulated ex-
periences such as an auto load of un-
expected guests on their front porch just
at the dinner hour. Not even the prover-
bial "half-loaf" in the bread box to share
with their friends, nor a cubic inch of
butter, nor a half-pound of fresh meat in
the house. John had planned to walk
to town that morning and "coal up,"
but a rainstorm prevented, and they had
decided to "make shift" for the day.

For a family of two to become a family
of eight all in a minute was quite enough
to make John Gibbons sigh for some one
of the rapid annihilators of space, be it
airship or " flivver." It would tarnish the
Gibbonses' ideal of hospitality to borrow
their friends' car and scour the country for
edibles for dinner. No! John and Mary
would never stand for that. Mary had
been always a forecaster and an inventor,
and these had, again and again, pulled
their stranded ship of state off the reefs.
From her emergency shelf came a can of
whole tongue, from her deft spoon
dropped biscuits in a twinkling, and the
creamy rice pudding "for two" was
further elongated and elaborated by the
addition of some fluffy marshmallows
just as it came from the oven; the latter

SERVING FOODS ATTRACTIVELY

423

wholly an experiment, but so successful
that the guests clamored for the recipe
when the dinner was over. An auto ride
<)f fifty miles is a pretty good appetizer
and an antidote for fastidiousness as to
diet. These are a splendid boost to a
lean larder, and, coupled with graciousness
of appreciation on the part of their guests,
made the Gibbons dinner a complete
success.

When John found out that the grocery
deliveries were timed and regulated by
the "haying" season, that is, said grocer
might come Friday, if the hay was not
dry enough to haul in, otherwise, he would
not, it set him to thinking that the advice
of his city friends about an auto was not
far afield. But he was not yet willing to
mortgage his soul, so he did not buy one.

Fortunately the Gibbonses had neigh-
bors— neighbors with automobiles and
" inclinations. " Now the possession of
an automobile has the subtle power of
transforming folks into very naughty
sinners or very winsome saints, de-
pending entirely upon the quality of
the "possessor." Selfishness can speed
up and outrun the fastest "twin six," or

thoughtful unselfishness so control the
man at the wheel that he would no more
start out without a thought of the "other
fellow" than without gasoline. In Ches-
terville there were both sorts, and, natu-
rally, those with " inclinations " took in the
Gibbonses' plight, fetching now a pound
of butter, a loaf of bread or a roast of
meat, or carrying letters and parcels to
the far-away post-office. Such neighbors
are both handy and heart-warming. But
the Gibbonses were Scotch. When a
Scotchman accepts a kindness he says
very little, but he usually has a reciprocal
kindness "up his sleeve." Just as the
Chesterville season was closing, they gave
a Scottish evening to their neighbors,
which turned out to be the event of the
summer. John gave a Burns reading,
Mary played old-time Scotch airs, and two
young friends from the city sang Scottish
ballads to the delight of everybody.
Toasted bannocks and jam lent novelty to
the refreshments. When it was all over
and they were packed up and readyto turn
cityward again, it was with a feeling that,
although they had been stranded many
times, there was always some way out.

Serving Foods Attractively

By Emma Gary Wallace

THERE are a great many house-
keepers who believe that if they
serve their families with good
wholesome foods, it is quite sufficient,
without wasting time or labor to put on
ruffles and frills, just for the sake of
"dressing up" dishes that will not taste
a bit better therefor.

At first thought, this might seem to be
a logical and common-sense argument,
but a little further thought will show
that people do get tired of foods served
endlessly in the same old way; and that
appearance does make a great difference
with the pleasure of the meal. If it
were not so, we would be satisfied to eat
andjdrink from thick, white hotel ware

and to use wooden-handled knives and
forks, with steel blades and tines.

Yes, the appearance of the table and
the viands upon it add wonderfully, not
only in point of aesthetic taste, but also
in digestive results as well, for we digest
and assimilate more readily that which
pleases as to looks.

Besides, once we have a few simple
materials and utensils with which to
work, the effort of decorating our foods
and giving them an appetizing look be-
comes an artistic pleasure rather than a
task.

Take, for example, an ordinary'pastry
bag! If a census were taken of all the
fairly well-to-do families in the country

424 AMERICAN COOKERY

that own a pastry bag, it is a safe guess There are those who object to casse-

that not one-half of one per cent would be roles and ramekins. They declare that

so provided. And yet, a pastry bag is one it is lots easier and just as well to dump

of the simplest things in the world to use. the whole ingredients into one dish,

It enables the home cook to use icings, rather than to fuss with all those little

whipped cream, etc., in many ways to dishes,

delight the eye. You may have seven in family and

Please do not argue that Rosamond's you will have the large dish and that

birthday cake will not taste better, if it many serving dishes to wash in the end;

is "trimmed up" for the occasion, be- whereas, if you put what you wish to

cause Rosamond will not agree with you. serve into the small individual dishes,

You will be more than repaid for the in the first place, you will have saved

trouble of putting on a foundation icing of washing the large dish, and, besides,

plain white. Save out some of the same you will have gauged the quantity you

mixture, tint with pink and make a required much more accurately. It is

delicious-looking ribbon of ruffled pink a real science to plan so that troublesome

around the edge. Then print Rosa- left-overs will not perplex and have to be

mond's name across the top and put on used up some way or other,

the year of her birth and the present And talking about left-overs! This is

year, and that cake will become a glori- just where the ramekins and the in-

fied thing in her memory for life. dividual casseroles come in so aptly.

And then when it comes to planked You had baked beans the other night,

dishes! What can be more attractive and there was part of a dish left over?

than a large wooden platter of juicy Or you bought some of these same baked

meat, done to a turn and beautifully beans at a delicatessen's and wondered

finished with a border of mashed potato how you could serve them attractively,

lying like white foam about its edge. And Here is a chance to use the casseroles,

the every day vegetables take on a new Grease each individual dish, fill with the

charm when served in such aristocratic baked beans, put a little piece of the

company. pork on top and set in the oven to brown.

As one little boy exclaimed to his Then presto! You have a most at-

mother, "Why, mamma, it's just like a tractive service and one that will appeal

pretty flower garden, isn't it?" to almost every one.

Surely, it is worth while, occasionally, If there is a little cold chicken left

to take pains to give a special pleasure, over or a few creamed peas, or there is a

even if it is a little bit more work than small can of lobster on the shelf, a cup

to serve a plain steak and a tureen of of white sauce and the ramekins will

mashed potatoes in the usual way. help out, by making possible the daintiest

Quite the easiest thing in the world sort of a creamed dish to be served with

to slip on in the morning, when first hot rolls, or plain bread and butter, or

arising, is a loose comfortable kimono, toast for lunch, or a late evening meal,

and yet few of us would care to go out Some housekeepers declare that they

on the street, or to church, so attired, will not buy all sorts of little contrivances

because of the extra time it required to for the kitchen, because they just lumber

dress properly for a public appearance. up the pantry shelves and collect dust

It is certainly true that it is unwise and are seldom used. There really is

to complicate our lives unnecessarily, not much use buying things that you have

but we must be careful of going to the no intention of using, and, of course, one

other extreme and becoming niggardly of must learn the difference between the

loving thought, which will give pleasure useful and the useless. Just the same,

to those about us. there is a right and a wrong mental atti-

SERVING FOODS ATTRACTIVELY

425

tude toward a so-called "convenience,"
and it is a good plan for all of us to be
ready to appreciate utensils that make for
time-saving and attractive table service.

If you are making a salad and have an
egg-slicer that will cut a hard-boiled egg
into smooth, even slices without crum-
bling, one egg will often do the work of
two. In addition to this the egg-slicer
will save about three minutes of time on
every egg cut up, and in the course of a
season, this will amount to a great deal.

A convenient, successful cream-whip,
which will do the work without using
all the cream to cover its inner surface, is
a great aid to good things to eat. The
efficient cream-whip will soon save its
price in the increased yield of the whipped
product. A little touch of whipped
cream on the top of hot cocoa or choco-
late, a fruit shortcake finished with a
garnish of whipped cream, a fruit salad,
or a dessert with a fluff of white upon it
and a touch in the way of a maraschino
cherry, a little cross of sweet pimiento,
nut meats, or candied orange peel,
will lift an everyday dish into the holiday
class.

A few mint leaves in a glass of lemon-
ade add attractiveness all out of propor-
tion to the cash value of these items.

Have you ever realized that a little
minced parsley, mint leaves, onion,
orange peel, or selected vegetables, would
add greatly to a dish in the process of
preparation? And have you not hesi-
tated sometimes about getting out the
cumbersome chopping-bowl and its com-
panion, the chopping-knife? That is
one of the times when a small wooden
tray or even one side of the kitchen
bread-board and rotary mincing-knife,
would prove a first aid to good cookery.

Perhaps, at this very minute, there are
a couple of dry rusty-skinned oranges in
the refrigerator. Put them on the table
in a fruit dish and they will go begging,
meal after meal. Cut them in two, and
serve them that way, and some one may
eat them as a sort of penance, or out
of consideration for the government, and

its ideas of thrift, but — take a small,
tall, thin glass, press the juice from these
same oranges, remove the seeds, add
a spoonful of powdered sugar, and some
chipped ice, and the one who gets this
delectable offering will consider himself
a favored being.

Tarts went out of style — and favor —
some years ago, because, so often they
were made out of the left-overs of pie
crust, kneaded and worked until it was
tough and hard. And then quite as often
the abused tart crusts were baked in
an indifferent manner and filled with
anything that was handy. But take
some rich, crispy pie-crust and bake it
delicately in crimped tart tins and fill
with something moist and delicious, and
tarts come into their own once more;
or, better yet, take a set of patty irons,
learn to use them properly, and promptly
the creamed peas, or oysters, or chicken,
or lobster are invested with new dignity,
because they are served in patty cases,
which are delicate morsels in themselves.

Young people, particularly, are very
observant of those little niceties of every-
day living. It is quite natural that,
when they entertain their friends in their
own homes, they should have a certain
pride in the table service. And it is
through this pride that the home-making
and home-building instincts are de-
veloped and each one becomes anxious
to do his or her best in the chosen field
of work, so that a high standard of living
may be enjoyed.

In the old days, it was customary to
bake some cakes, — perhaps two or three
loaves, — and to put them away for
fear company should arrive unexpectedly.
One man, who is of national prominence
now, recently declared that he never
tasted a fresh cake in his life until he
grew up, for his mother always baked
one at a time and put it down cellar at the
head of the cake-line, the oldest and
stalest being then removed for family
consumption. His mother would have
considered it an extraordinary and au-
dacious proceeding to have made a cake

426

AMERICAN COOKERY

and eaten it the day it was baked. This
would have been considered a "very"
shiftless sort of management.

Some housekeepers, who are ready to
give their families the best in the way of
fresh prepared foods, still cling to the
constant use of commonplace, everyday
dishes and silver, only taking out the
best when invited guests come. Even
then it is often too much trouble to
bother, for lack of familiarity with the

use of these articles makes it trouble-
some to get them out, use them, and
restore them to their resting-places.

But some day the young people will
be gone from home, and then the house
treasures will be Dead Sea Fruit, indeed,
if they carry with them no sweet mem-
ories of other days.

Make your table attractive and go to
a little trouble to do it. You will be
glad if you do!

The Youngest Bride and the Household

Gospel

By Mrs. Margery Fifield

i«

H, my dear, don't! A cup of
cold cereal, you know — "
"A cup of cold cereal what?"
interrupted the Youngest Bride laugh-
ingly, as she stood in her little blue and
white kitchen with the cup of cereal in
question poised above the uncovered
garbage pail. "It sounds like a quota-
tion from the Bible. Finish it!"

"It is a quotation from the Bible,
the Housekeeper's Bible," said the Wise
Lady, who, since she was the Youngest
Bride's aunt, felt at liberty to run in and
visit with the Bride in other than the
conventional calling hours adhered to
by others in the neighborhood in which
they both lived.

"I'll be all through just as soon as I put
this unsightly thing away," said the
Bride, giving the pail a vigorous shove;
"then come into the living-room and
teach me some Housekeeper's gospel. I
need it," and, shaking her curly head
vigorously, she led the way into the
diminutive living-room.

"Well, I don't want you to think that
I'm an old fuss-budget," warned the
Aunt; "but that rigorous discipline in
food economy and conservation, which
we all went through with for patriotic
principles during the war, will make me

watch my waste for all time, I'm afraid,
and though now the war is over, it still
seems as appallingly wicked to waste any
bit of real food and nourishment as it
did then. Of course, I know that you
and that nice husband of yours aren't
going to starve, if your stale bread and
left-over cereal goes into the garbage
pail, but it is wicked just the same."
She shook her head emphatically. "And
you really can save, if you watch your
ice-box and plan carefully."

"Teach me and watch me save!"
the Youngest Bride said solemnly. "Or,
at least, until somebody invents a house
allowance more elastic. Let's hear about
the cold cereal to begin with! It sounds
dull enough. But, really, I have tried to
use it again by mixing it in with the hot
cereal the next morning, but it just won't
work!"

" I know it doesn't work very well that
way, but let me tell you some of my
favorite ways and you will scheme every
morning to have some left over just to
experiment with. Now, did you ever
think of the possibility of muffins?"

"Muffins?" asked the Bride incredu-
lously, "of course not. Muffins are
made out of flour."

"Well, so they are," laughed the

THE YOUNGEST BRIDE AND THE HOUSEHOLD GOSPEL 427

Aunt, "and cold cereal too. Now you
just take a pencil and paper, or, better
yet, get one of those cards out of your
card catalogue and take this down and
try it at your first opportunity. The
muffins are moist and delicious and, better
yet, you are saving on some other ma-
terials and getting the nourishment out
of that small amount of cereal, which,
otherwise, might have met a sad fate in
the garbage pail."

"O Aunt! truly you are wise! Go
on, I'm fascinated!" The Bride sat up
expectantly with the pencil in her hand
ready to write.

"Take this down then.

| teaspoonful salt

1 egg

1 cup milk

2 tablespoonfuls
melted shortening

1 cup cold cereal
1^ cups flour
4 teaspoonfuls baking

powder

2 teaspoonfuls sugar

Beat your cold cereal with your milk
as smooth as possible; add it to your dry
ingredients sifted together, then add
your &gg and your shortening. You can
use anything with this — oatmeal, rice,
Pettijohn's, or any of the other cereals
that you use. When you make these for
breakfast, you might omit your cooked
cereal and have poached eggs or bacon or
something similar."

"My! that does sound awfully good,
and I never would have thought of it
in all the world. But, Wise Aunt, now
give me a recipe for getting up early
enough in the morning to make these
economical and delicious breakfast
dainties."

" ' If to do were as easy as to know — ' "
laughed the Aunt. "But I'll tell you a
secret, though. It's one of my many con-
cessions to the flesh, which does love to
lie abed mornings. I mix my muffins the
night before!"

"Mix them the night before!" re-
peated the Youngest Bride, parrot-like;
" but the cook books all say that you must
pop your things right into the oven the
minute you put them together, or else the
gas will escape or something dreadful like
that will happen."

" So it will, my dear, if you leave your

batter-mixtures sitting around a warm
kitchen. But I often mix mine just be-
fore I go to bed and pop it, not into the
oven, but into the ice-box. There the
temperature is cold enough to prevent
the chemical action of the liquid and the
baking powder. Then in the morning I
heat my oven, butter the pans, then re-
move the mixture from the ice-box and
proceed with all possible speed. I know
some good scientific cooks who do this, and
I have found it successful."

"You're a wizard, Aunt."

"Does your husband object to pan-
cakes?" asked the Wise Lady, with a
twinkle in her eye.

"Object! He doesn't even object to
the variety I serve him, which are far
from the perfect article, I fear."

"Some morning, then, when you do get
up early, or some Sunday morning, you
might make pancakes and use up some of
your cold cereal in that way. I think
that you will find this recipe good.

1 egg

2 tablespoonfuls
melted butter

1 scant cup flour

1 cup milk
1 cup cereal
\ teaspoonful salt
1 teaspoonful baking
powder

Rub the cereal into the flour, then add
the egg, well beaten, milk, and butter.
You may have to use your judgment
about consistency, since cereals vary.
Anyway, it can be thinned or thickened
easily."

"I adore pancakes, but they make
such a horrible smoke that I seem to
smell it all day long. And Dick says he
hates to go 'pancakey' to the office."

"I know. I'll never forget the Easter
Sunday that I went to church, and the
whole service was spoiled for me because
I couldn't smell anything else but that
stale pancake smoke. But get an alumi-
num or a soapstone griddle on which you
don't have to use grease, and almost all
of the smoke and smell will be eliminated."

"That's the first thing I shall invest in
when I go out. There! I've written it
down. Now don't tell me that there are
other ways in which I can use up that cup
of cold mush!"

428

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Oh, yes, lots of them," laughed the
Aunt. "To give what we call 'body' to
thin soups, for instance When you are
simmering the bones left from your Sun-
day roast, add some onion and carrot and
whatever bits of vegetables and season-
ings you may have in the house, and then
about ten minutes before you take it off
the stove add some of the cold cereal
put through the puree strainer. It will
thicken your soup beautifully, and add
just that much extra nourishment besides.
When you are making a soup out of noth-
ing much, that added cereal will make all
the difference between a thin watery soup
and a well-blended soup with a 'body*
to it, as the old-fashioned cooks say."

"Cold cereal to thicken soups," wrote
the Bride industriously.

"Then, too," continued the Aunt,
"sometimes when I'm making a beef or a
veal loaf, I add my left-over cereal along
with the cracker crumbs and egg. It
stretches the meat over two or three
meals, and when it is seasoned nicely and
served with a tomato sauce, no one would
ever know about that helpful cup of cold
cereal which went into it."

"Why, it opens up undreamed-of
possibilities, doesn't it?" said the Bride;

" but you can't sit there and think up ways
to use that cereal ad infinitum, can you?"

"Oh, I haven't exhausted the subject
yet by any means," laughed the Aunt,
"but I think that I've given you enough
to go on for the present. But before I
run on to the market I must tell you about
the very nicest way. Only this isn't
particularly for left-over cereal. For
this delectable breakfast dish you must
cook double your usual amount of cereal
some morning. Then pack what is
left over into a greased baking-powder
or cocoa can to mold. The next morn-
ing, — or this makes a fine winter luncheon
dish, too, — unmold, cut in slices a little
less than an inch thick, dip in egg, and
fry. Corn-meal mush prepared this way,
served with real maple syrup, if you are
lucky enough to have any, with some of
those nice little sausages cooked a
crispy brown, makes just about the
nicest meal I can think of right now."

"Mm! It makes my mouth water to
think of it," said the Bride appreciatively.

"Well, I must run along now or I shall
talk all morning. Don't try these things
all at once," warned the Aunt, "but keep
your eye on the ice-box and the garbage
pail. It pays!"

New Year's Cakes of Long Ago

By Elizabeth Kimball

DROP Biscuits, as made in 1806,
although humble in name, are
quite a different matter from
those as usually made at the present
time. If carefully baked, a "white ice,"
as the quaintly phrased recipe calls it,
is formed over the top of these delicious
cakes.

Drop Biscuit

4 eggs

2 cups confectioner's

sugar
li cups flour

| teaspoonful salt
1 tablespoonful grated
orange peel

Beat the eggs for ten minutes. Add
the sugar gradually and continue beating.
Add orange peel and flour by degrees,
beating all well together without ceasing.
Drop the dough on well-buttered sheets
and put them rapidly in a quick oven.
As the cakes rise set them gently in a
cooler part of the oven. When done,
they should be of a delicate color. When
all are baked, set them in a cool oven for
ten minutes to dry. Keep well covered
in a tin box.

NEW YEAR'S CAKES OF LONG AGO

429

Croxinox were a fashionable delicacy
about 1750, popular perhaps because of
their amusing name.

Croxinox

6 eggs

1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoonful cinna-
mon
Flour

^ cup wine or cider
1 tablespoonful grated

orange peel
j teaspoonful salt

Beat the eggs well, add sugar, spices,
wine (cider may be substituted), salt,
and sufficient flour to make a stiff dough.
Roll thin, cut in squares and diamonds,
and fry in deep fat. Sprinkle with
granulated sugar.

When the New Year came around our
great-great-grandmothers had always to
make special cakes for the occasion, no
matter how much baking had been done
for Christmas. As cookies seemed to
belong especially to the Christmas season,
the sweets for the New Year usually
took the form of " great cakes." An
unusually delicious Orange Cake was the
favorite in 1700.

Orange Cake

If cups sugar
5 pound almonds
1 cup rose water
4 eggs
\ teaspoonful salt

Rind of 3 oranges

3^ cups flour

3 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
f cup citron and

candied orange peel

Put the almonds quickly through a
food chopper; add the rosewater, sugar,
orange rind, and yolks of eggs beaten
until thick. Beat in the flour, sifted
with salt and baking powder, and the
citron and candied orange peel, which
have been cut in thin strips. Finally
fold in the whites of eggs beaten to a
stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven.

By 1750 the fashion had changed to
the following simple "New Year Cake,"
which had not even a fancy name.

New Year Cake

f cup butter

1$ cups sugar

1 cup boiling water

4 eggs

1 teaspoonful saleratus

2f cups flour
2 tablespoonfuls car-
away seeds
J teaspoonful salt

Cream the butter and add the sugar
gradually. Dissolve the soda in the
boiling water and pour over the first
mixture. Add the yolks of the eggs,
beaten until lemon colored, and sufficient
flour to make a stiff batter, about two
and three-fourths cup. Stir in the
seeds and, finally, add the whites of the
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a
loaf in a moderate oven. Cover with
white frosting and decorate with browned
almonds.

The children of 1800 insisted that the
New Year should not be celebrated
without a batch or two of cookies in their
honor. To gratify their desire — as well
as a sneaking fondness on the part of
their elders — Little Short Cakes and
New Year's Cookies were always made.

Little Short Cakes

3 cups flour

1 cup butter

1 cup sugar

1 egg

2 tablespoonfuls
cream

| cup currants

1 tablespoonful cara-
way seeds

i teaspoonful salt

Sift the sugar, salt, and flour into a
bowl. Rub the butter into this mixture
until it crumbles. Beat the egg and add
the cream. Stir this into the first mix-
ture until a stiff paste is formed. Divide
into two parts, put currants in one half
the mixture and caraway seed in the
other. Roll out, cut in fancy shapes, and
bake.

New Year Cookies

1 cup butter
lj cups sugar
1 cup cream
^ cup brandy
5 cup wine

1 tablespoonful cara-
way seed
Spices

\ teaspoonful soda
^ teaspoonful salt
Flour

Cream the butter; add sugar, cream,
wine (cider may be substituted), and spices
to taste. Add the soda dissolved in a
little hot water, salt, and caraway seeds.
Stir in sufficient flour to make a stiff
dough. Roll thin, cut in stars and hearts,
and bake in a quick oven.

430

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

, BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

OF
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year

TO SUBSCRIBERS

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal
of the same, has been received.

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
enclosed for this purpose.

In sending notice to renew a subscription or
change of address, please give the old address
as well as the new.

In referring to an original entry, we must know
the name as it was formerly given, together with
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box,
or Street Number.

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter

Our New Year's Prayer

To thee, All-sovereign Power above, we come
With hearts bowed low in reverent gratitude
For past year blessings. May thy love include
All men who honor thee at this glad time.

Grant thou our souls may grow in constancy
For TRUTH and RIGHT whatever be the cost!
Keep our thoughts fair and never fashion-tossed
Throughout the course of each succeeding hour.

Though clouds may hover near — may faith

untold
Fulfill the test of sacred duty. May
Our lives portray thy influence each day
As it unfolds a link in lifehood's chain!

— Caroline L. Sumner.

One of the neatest replies on record
must be credited to old Christopher
North. Professor Aytoun, of "Scottish
Cavalier Lays," loved and was loved by
North's daughter. He was too nervous
to face the father, so the blushing girl
herself asked paternal consent to their
marriage. "Papa's answer is on the back
of my dress," said the scholar's daughter,
returning to her trembling, waiting lover,
who, turning her round, read on a pinned
slip of paper, "With the author's com-
pliments." — London Chronicle,

A NEW YEAR

THIS is the first number of American
Cookery to bear the date of 1920.
A full year has passed since the close of
the World War. It has been a year of
strange, vexatious unrest, though, ap-
parently, great prosperity has prevailed
in this land. The past five years have
been years of great hardship in the pub-
lication business. The shortage of paper,
the price of labor, the cost of mailing,
and transportation all have been unfa-
vorable to the limit. Not a single feature
of the business has been propitious. Had
it not been for the loyal support of our
readers and patrons, we might have
found it impossible to continue our work.

Now the signs of better times are
before us. Everybody has an employ-
ment or an occasion for employment.
Masses of people are earning and spend-
ing more money than they ever hoped
to handle. The world is in need of more
commodities than the world is prepared,
to produce. Certainly peace and pros-
perity at home and service to the world
abroad are incentives to work.

American Cookery is near the end of
its twenty-fourth year of publication.
As a wholesome, economic factor in
home life may we not assume that
American Cookery is worthy of high
consideration in the households of
America? Through all these years its
high standard of reliability and excellence
has been sustained. Is it not now of
far greater worth than it has ever been?
We are confident there are thousands of
homes in which the usefulness of Ameri-
can Cookery would be highly appre-
ciated. How shall we reach these homes ?
Would that we might reach many of them
through the kindly words of those who
have used the magazine and found it not
wanting!

To all the readers of American Cook-
ery we extend the greetings of the season;
may 1920 be to all a happy and prosperous
year!

EDITORIALS

431

LOGIC AT A DISCOUNT

WAGES must meet cost of reason-
able, economical living.

2 — Increased production is absolutely
essential to lowering of price of necessi-
ties.

3 — Decreased production from short-
ened hours logically and inevitably makes
for still higher prices.

4 — Increased wages coupled with
shortened hours, if carried beyond limit,
mean the closing down of industries,
involving loss of ALL wages, and in-
evitable increase of cost of essentials.

How shall these problems be met and
solved ?

The laborer might be given an essen-
tially increased wage, raised to a fair
and reasonable point in compensation
for an increase in hours of work rendered;
this increase of wages to diminish in just
proportion to the fall in the market
price of necessities; this arrangement to
be agreed to by both labor and capital,
employee and employer. When normal
prices shall again prevail, normal wages
shall then be resumed.

Heavy exports to Europe have heavily
lessened our supplies, and the deficit must
be made good by stimulated production.
No other cure is possible. This fact
especially labor does not, or else will not,
see. In not recognizing it, laborers are
their own worst enemies, fighting against
their own existence and welfare. Let
both sides get together, be fair and honest
with one another, and "render unto
Caesar the things that are Caesar's."

In the foregoing clipping we find more
of logic and common sense than in most
that is said about the high cost of neces-
sities at the present time. The item will
bear reading, rereading and thought.
How true it is, "labor and capital, the
employee and employer must agree," or
there can be no social rest. We do not
like class distinctions — to distinguish
between labor and capital. We are all
engaged in honest, useful labor, and every
thrifty, so-called laborer is a prospective

capitalist. To the ambitious workman
the way is open to independent under-
takings or a larger share in co-operative
enterprises. But granting that under
existing conditions there are employees
and employers, it seems obvious the
latter should be regarded as first in
importance. In all industries the man
who gives another employment, takes the
initiative, provides the means and exer-
cises intelligent management which are
essential to success. He also bears the
risks of the enterprise. He is leader
where others follow. Above all, he is,
as a rule, a loyal citizen, interested in the
prosperity and growth of the state and
the community.

"In all those disputes in which the public
is the helpless but greatest victim, the
only sensible course is to get together and
settle before resorting to strike, thus
saving the public from needless suffering.
And in every settlement there should be
a spirit of conciliation, willingness to
compromise, and recognition of brother-
hood in industry."

SOUND, BUT UNPOPULAR
DOCTRINE

HERE is another explanation of our
present economic situation and the
way out of the same. The item pro-
claims a sound, if not a popular doctrine.

"One of the most discouraging phases
of the present tangle of industrial con-
ditions is the ignoring of the fact that
any wage that keeps up with the rising
cost of living is an unfair wage. It
seems to be generally assumed that to
justify any demanded increase in wages
it need only be shown that such an in-
crease is necessary to maintain a pre-war
standard of comfort.

"The years of the war devoted to de-
struction have dangerously exhausted
the common fund, upon which we all
depend. It is not possible for all to enjoy
the normal standard of living. Those
who succeed in doing so succeed at the
expense of the rest of the community.
The selfish determination on the part of

432

AMERICAN COOKERY

many to avoid their share of the common
burden imposed upon all by the waste of
our resources is the cause of the present
economic unrest.

"The unfair and abnormal return that
a small part of the community has de-
manded and received as the price of their
work during our time of desperate need
has so demoralized the recipients that
their standard of production has become
seriously lessened, and while our necessity
grows, our means for supplying our wants
slackens. It is a fact that the abnormal
increase in wages and the attempt to
better the working conditions has been
followed by a refusal on the part of the
working men to keep up a normal rate
of production. We have only to go on
as we are going to commit industrial
suicide.

"What a pity, when only a little com-
mon sense, a little mutual consideration,
a little more work on the part of each
one, would at once lead us out of this
wilderness of folly." f. w. m.

PROSPERITY AND GOOD WILL

UNLESS all reports are misleading,
the signs of great prosperity are
abroad in the land. The trades are
flourishing, every industry is pushed to
the limit, the volume of business done is
unprecedented and still the demand for
commercial products cannot be met.
Every man who wants to work finds
occupation, and at a wage such that to
demand more is no less than criminal.
What the old world needs is to settle
down to steady work, to restore the losses
incurred by world-wide war, to repair the
damages done, and to build up, build up
the waste places.

We protest against the set back that
has been given to civilization. Let us
take an account of stock, set our house in
order and resolve to make good to hu-
manity. We do not like to feel that
"this country has come to a pass where,
if God doesn't step in and save it, it is
going to ruin." Instead of prophesying
"woe, woe, woe for them that dwell on

the earth," we need the strength and
courage to say, "I will lift up mine eyes
unto the hills from whence cometh my
help. My help cometh from the Lord
which made heaven and earth."

An era of great prosperity and advance-
ment is before us. It is up to us to grasp
the opportunity and make good for the
universal welfare of humanity.

PRODUCTION

WE are paying high for the necessi-
ties of living simply because the
demand for them is greater than the
supply. We cannot feed ourselves and
a starving world and at the same time
have a surplus to draw upon. Mani-
festly the remedy for the troublesome
situation lies in increased production in
every branch of industry. Prices will
drop when the supply of products equals
or exceeds the demand. "What," asks
the London Spectator, "is the cause of
the dangers that surround us? The
lack of production, Production, Produc-
tion and again production. This is the
need of the hour."

We have been on a sort of strenuous
outing, or prolonged vacation, and now
no one seems anxious to go back to work.

The Things Worth While

Som'times I get t' thinkin'

An' it kind o' seems to me
Th' things worth while in this ol' world

Jest simmers down t' three.

A lovin' heart's th' first thing,

An' th' sweetest part o' life
Is when you come at end o' day

To kiddies, home, an' wife.

Th' appetite fer hard work

An' fer trudgin' to'rds th' goal —

That's second in my little plan
Fer happiness o' soul.

An' last a smilin' count'nance

Jest to chase away the blues
An' paint on other peoples' souls

Them shinin' rainbow hues.

If you'd make life worth livin'
Try these big things worth while;

They'rt three (I'll sum 'em up ag'in)
Jest love an' work an' smile.

— D. T.

SHEPHERD'S PIE OF STEAK AND OYSTERS

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Clear Soup

CUT into one-inch dice four pounds
of beef from [the round or shank,
and quickly brown the outside in
a very hot pan. Put this into the soup
kettle, add four pounds of chicken, fowl,
or veal from the shank, cut into small
pieces, bones and all. Pour over the
meats six quarts of cold water, place over
a slow fire, let it come very slowly to a
boil, then allow to simmer for three
hours. Add to kettle one cup, each, of
diced carrot, turnip, and celery, and one-
half cup of chopped onion. A ham bone,
or a slice or two of ham, adds to the flavor.
Tie in a bit of cheesecloth eight cloves,
eight peppercorns, and a tablespoonful of
mixed dried herbs, add to kettle, and
let the whole simmer for three hours
longer. Strain of! the soup, let stand
until jellied; remove every particle of
fat, and beat into the jelly the slightly-
beaten whites of two or three eggs. Stir
slowly over fire until eggs begin to
coagulate; let soup come to a boil, strain

through cheesecloth; add salt to taste,
heat again to boiling, and the soup will be
ready to serve. It should be perfectly
clear, and of an amber color.

If the soup is put away in a cool place
before the fat is removed, it will keep for
several days, and may be cleared and
used part at a time.

Emergency Soup

| cup half-inch cubes

carrot
^ cup slices celery
1 onion (medium) cut

in shreds
\ cup chicken or bacon

fat

1 cup half-inch cubes
potato

4 cups water or broth

2 tablespoonfuls meat
extract with water

Salt and pepper as
needed

Cook the carrot, celery, and onion in the
fat, covered, stirring occasionally over a
very moderate heat about fifteen minutes.
Cook the potatoes in boiling water five
minutes, drain, rinse in cold water, and
drain again. Add the potato to the other
vegetables with the water or broth, and
let cook nearly one hour; add the meat
extract, if used, with salt and pepper to
season. There should be four cups of soup.

433

434

AMERICAN COOKERY

Shepherd's Pie of Beefsteak and
Oysters

Cut into small pieces either fresh-
cooked steak or cold broiled steak. Add
an equal amount of oysters — a pint of
oysters and a pound of steak is ample for
six or eight persons. Put into a baking
dish, and sprinkle with one teaspoonful
and one-half of salt, and one-fourth a
teaspoonful of pepper. Melt two table-
spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan; add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir smooth,
pour in two cups of water, or a mixture
of water with gravy, soup stock, broth,
etc., and cook until thickened. Pour
this over the meat and oysters, and cover

egg, form into small rolls, and cook until
brown in butter.

Smothered Ham

Cut from the middle of a smoked ham
a slice two inches thick, and let simmer for
two hours, just covered with water.
Remove to baking dish, place a few cloves
on top, spread with butter, and cover
with a one-inch layer of bread soaked in
milk, and seasoned with a little salt,
pepper, and onion juice. Bake in moder-
ate oven until bread is brown on top.

Spanish Eggs

Cook one teaspoonful of fine-scraped
onion in one tablespoonful of butter.

SAUSAGE-AND-VEAL ROLLS

all with a layer of mashed potatoes one
to two inches deep. The pie may be
cooked at once in the oven until hot
through and the crust well browned, or
it may be put aside for two or three hours
until it is needed.

Sausage-and-Veal Rolls

Mix together one-half pound of sausage
meat, one-half pound of minced raw veal,
and one-half cup of bread crumbs. Add
one-half tablespoonful, each, of chopped
celery and chopped pickles. Season with
one teaspoonful, each, of celery salt,
lemon juice, and scraped onion. A mere
trace of red pepper will be an improve-
ment. Bind the mixture with beaten

Add one cup of sifted tomato pulp.
When tomatoes are simmering, break in
three eggs, directly from shell, and lift
with a fork while cooking, so that the
red, white, and yellow show in the dish.
Flavor with three tablespoonfuls of
catsup, two tablespoonfuls of chopped
cooked ham, and sprinkle before serving
with fine-chopped parsley.

Chicken Supreme en Surprise

Scrape the pulp from the fibers in the
breast of a chicken; add to one-half
pound of veal pulp and pound with a
pestle in a wooden bowl; add one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of
paprika, one-fourth cup of soft bread

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

435

crumbs taken from the inside of the loaf;
and again pound until smooth, then add
two eggs, one at a time, pounding smooth
between each addition; press through a
sieve and beat in three-fourths a cup of
cream. Neatly line the bottom and
ends of a quart mold with paraffin paper;
butter very thoroughly the paper and
inner surface of the mold. Press deco-
rations cut from truffles into the butter,
and add drops of melted butter to hold
these in place. Set the mold in a cool
place to stiffen the butter.

Make a sauce of one-fourth cup of
butter, one-half cup of flour, one-half cup
of cream, one-half cup of chicken stock,
with salt and pepper. Into this stir one
pair of sweetbreads, cooked and cut into
cubes, two level tablespoonfuls of cooked
ham cut into cubes, four mushroom caps,
creamed and sauted in butter, and the
truffle trimmings chopped fine (left from
the two or three truffles used for decora-
tions). Set this salpicon aside to become
cold.

Line the bottom and sides of the
decorated mold with the chicken force-
meat; then put some of the sweetbread
preparation into the center of the mold.
As the forcemeat preparation will be the
firmer when cooked, and the timbale,
when unmolded, will rest on the mixture
lastjput into the mold, the forcemeat
should cover the entire sweetbread mix-
ture, at least to the depth of half an inch.

CHICKEN SUPREME EN SURPRISE

To insure this, fill in at the sides of the
mold with the forcemeat. After the
sweetbread mixture is put into the center
of the mold, the forcemeat mixture can
be put in place at the sides of the mold
with ease.

Fill the mold compactly and make the
mixture level on top, that it may stand
evenly when unmolded. Set the mold
on many folds of paper or cloth in a dish
deep enough to allow the water to sur-
round it to two-thirds its height; pour
in water at the boiling-point, let stand
over the fire until the water boils again,
then cover the mold with buttered paper
and let cook in the oven or on the top of
the range, without allowing the water to
boil, until, when pressed upon with the
finger, the mixture at the center feels
firm.

Serve with Cream or Bechamel Sauce.
This recipe will serve ten.

TURBANS OF HALIBUT, FRENCH-FRIED POTATOES

436

AMERICAN COOKERY

Turbans of Halibut

Have two slices of halibut cut half an
inch thick; remove the skin and bone,
thus securing eight filets. Dip in melted
butter; squeeze over them the juice of
half a lemon, a little onion juice, and
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Com-
mencing with the widest end, roll each
filet into a "turban" and fasten by
running through each a buttered wooden
toothpick. Bake about twenty minutes,
basting with butter melted in hot water.

Mississippi Steamboat Potatoes

Cook one tablespoonful of minced
onion in one tablespoonful of butter

until tender. Five to eight hours will be
required. Cook until tender six small
carrots, two parsnips, cut lengthwise,
several small beets, one head of cabbage,
quartered, and six potatoes.

Arrange the vegetables around the
meat on a large platter and serve while
hot.

Mushrooms and Tomatoes

Cook one cup of canned tomatoes and
one-half cup of mushrooms, either fresh
or canned, until thoroughly heated. Add
one tablespoonful of butter, and one or
two tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted crumbs,
with one-half teaspoonful of salt and a

NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER

until brown. Add one pint of cold potato
cubes. When potatoes have absorbed
the butter, add one tablespoonful of
tarragon vinegar. Cover, and steam for
one minute. Pour over potatoes one
well-beaten egg, until cubes are coated.
Turn into dish, sprinkle with one table-
spoonful of very fine-chopped parsley.
This dish can be eaten either cold or
warm.

New England Boiled Dinner

Select a piece of "fancy brisket"
weighing from three to four pounds.
Rinse the meat in cold water and put
over the fire, covered with cold water;
let heat slowly to the boiling-point, re-
move the scum and let simmer gently

dash of pepper. Just before serving stir
in two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, or
two of chicken stock.

Use as sauce for veal or any delicate
meat.

Olive Rarebit

Melt one teaspoonful of butter in a
pan; add one cup of grated or thin-sliced
cheese; when partly melted, add one-
fourth a cup of milk, water, or cider, and
cook, with constant stirring, until mixture
is smooth. Add one well-beaten egg,
one-half teaspoonful of mustard, one-
fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of
paprika. Just before serving, stir into
the rarebit the meat of six large olives,
chopped.

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

437

Brine from the olive bottle may be
substituted for part of the milk or other
liquid.

Sausage with Apple Rings

Cover the sausage, pricked in every
part with a fork, with boiling water, let
simmer fifteen minutes, then drain and
brown in the oven. Make a syrup of a
cup, each, of sugar and water, and in this
cook very carefully four or five tart
apples, cored, pared, and sliced in rings.

Finger Rolls

To one cup of scalded milk add one-
fourth a cup of shortening, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and a level tablespoonful
of sugar; stir till the shortening is melted
and the liquid is lukewarm, then stir in a
cake of compressed yeast, mixed with
one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water, and
as much bread flour as can be conven-
iently mixed in with a spoon. The
dough should not be mixed stiff enough
to knead. Mix, cut, and turn the dough
over and over with a spoon or knife;
cover and set aside to become light.
When the dough has doubled in bulk,
with buttered fingers pull off bits of the
dough and work into smooth balls.
Set the balls on a floured board, cover, and
let stand until very light; roll the balls,
one by one, under the fingers to lengthen
them to fit finger-pans. When again
very light, bake about twenty minutes.

SAUSAGE WITH APPLE KIN

Brush over with the white of an egg,
slightly beaten, and return to the oven a
moment to set the glaze.

Yankee Potato Salad

Boil two quarts of small potatoes; cook
two eggs until hard. While hot, com-
bine eggs and potatoes, stir in two table-
spoonfuls of butter, one-half cup of
vinegar, and one raw onion, chopped fine;
season with salt and pepper. Set aside
to become cold. When ready to serve,
add a cup of heavy cream and sprinkle
with parsley.

Stuffed Apples

Take eighteen Siberian crabapples, and
core at the blossom end, to form a cup.
Cook the apples in a syrup made of one
cup of sugar and one cup of water, until
tender. This, with the lid on the sauce-
pan, should not take more than fifteen

YANKEE POTATO SALAD

438

AMERICAN COOKERY

minutes. Remove apples carefully to a
shallow glass serving dish, and fill the
cavities with cherried cranberries, made
by cooking one-half cup of cranberries
in a syrup of one-half cup of sugar and
one-fourth cup of water.

Pour remaining syrup over apples;
whip one cup of cream and pile it around
them, and garnish with seeded Tokay
grapes.

Any small, tart red apples may be sub-
stituted for the Siberian crabapples.

Date-and-Banana Salad

Peel and scrape lightly four bananas,
cut them into thin slices and squeeze over

apples, a few brown bread-crumbs or
Grapenuts, two rounding tablespoonfuls
of sugar, lemon rind or cinnamon for
flavoring, one tablespoonful of butter or
fat, one-fourth cup of fruit syrup, some
fresh bread or cake crumbs.

Peel, core, and slice the apples. Grease
a plain charlotte mold and coat the
inside with brown crumbs or Grapenuts.
Range the apple slices in layers, so that
each slice overlaps the other. Sprinkle
with sugar and a little ground cinnamon
or lemon rind. Put a little oiled butter
and a layer of bread crumbs on each layer
of apples. When the mold is filled, cover
with bread crumbs. Cover the mold

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DATE-AND-BANANA SALAD

them the juice of half a lemon. Take
half a pound of firm dates; put them into
a basin and pour over them enough
boiling water to cover, then remove the
stones and cut each date into two pieces.
Mix three tablespoonfuls of olive oil with
one tablespoonful of strained lemon juice
and a good pinch of salt and paprika
pepper. Mix this thoroughly and pour
it over the fruit in a salad bowl, garnish
with fresh washed-and-drained, crisp
lettuce leaves. Decorate with the heart
of a lettuce and slices of banana and serve.

Cold Apple Timbale

Required: About half a dozen cooking

with a greased paper, and bake in a
moderate oven for about forty-five
minutes. Unmold when cold; serve
with some fruit syrup or cold jam sauce.

Mock Mayonaise

Beat three eggs very stiff; add the juice
of one lemon, and beat in until the eggs
have thinned again — the lemon juice
will slightly thicken them. Season with
one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, one-
eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and a trace
of paprika. Cook in double boiler
until creamy, stirring constantly. Re-
move from fire, add two tablespoonfuls of
butter, and let cool.

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

439

Stuffed Peach Salad

Use the halves of canned peaches; the
cavities filled with seeded grapes, nuts,
or any preferred mixture of fruits or
vegetables.

Cinnamon Toast

Scald and cool one cup of milk. Add
one cake of compressed yeast softened in
one-fourth a cup of scalded-and-cooled
milk, one-fourth a cup of softened butter,
one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth cup
of sugar, two eggs, flour to knead. Set
aside in a warm place to become light.
Shape in a loaf, place in a pan (this makes
one loaf). Set aside to become light.
When doubled in bulk, bake one hour
in a moderate oven. When cold, slice,
toast, spread with butter, sprinkle with a
mixture of sugar and cinnamon (propor-
tion, one-fourth cup of sugar, one-half
teaspoonful of cinnamon) . Serve at once.

Canapes

Toast slowly rounds of bread cut from
slices with a biscuit cutter. Spread with
sardine paste. Alake a border of hard-
cooked white of egg, chopped very fine
and seasoned with salt and paprika. In
the center of each canape place a ring of
olive stuffed with a paste made by mixing
butter, cream cheese, and chopped
pimolas.

Cut slices of bread in strips four inches
long and one and one-half inches wide.
Toast carefully. Spread with creamed
butter. Make a border of chopped yolk

CANAPES

of egg, seasoned and mixed with chopped
parsley. Place on toast a slice of smoked
salmon, with one sliced gherkin on top,
and a little anchovy paste between.

Chocolate Cake

(Exchange Style)

In the top of a double boiler, melt two
squares of chocolate. Add one cup of
sugar, one cup of milk, and one table-
spoonful of butter. When the sugar is
dissolved, add the yolk of one egg beaten
light, and stir constantly until the egg is
set. Remove from the fire to cool.

Sift together one cup and one-half of
flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt,
one teaspoonful of soda, and two tea-
spoonfuls of baking powder. Add this to
the cooled custard mixture and beat with
a Dover egg-beater until smooth; bake
in a moderate oven. When cooled, cover
the top of the cake with icing and sprinkle
with chopped pistachio nuts.

CINNAMON TOAST

440

AMERICAN COOKERY

CHOCOLATE CAKE

Icing for Chocolate Cake

Dissolve one cup of sugar in one-half
cup of boiling water. Cook to 240°, or
until the syrup threads.

Pour the syrup very slowly onto the
white of one egg, beaten dry, and continue
beating, adding one-half teaspoonful of
vanilla.

Chicken-and- Almond Sandwiches

Chop fine half a cup of cold roast
chicken and a tablespoonful or more of
blanched almonds, then pound in a
mortar. Mix with a little chicken,
Hollandaise, or mayonnaise sauce. Add
a little celery salt and paprika, and use
as a sandwich filling.

Cheese-and-English Walnut
Sandwiches

--. Beat half a cup of butter to a cream.
Add a few grains of cayenne and salt,
and, very gradually, one-fourth a pound

of common American factory cheese,
grated or pressed through a ricer. Then
mix in one-fourth a pound of English
walnut meats, sliced very thin. Spread
this mixture upon bread prepared for
sandwiches. This preparation is good
with any kind of bread.

Pimiento Sandwiches

(Five O'clock Tea or Card Party)
Slit canned pimientos down one side,
and cut from them fancy shapes. Cut
thin slices of bread in the same shape.
Spread two pieces of bread with butter,
and place the pimiento between. Chop
the pimiento trimmings, and use as filling
for other sandwiches.

Mint Sandwiches

Cut white bread into slices one-fourth
an inch thick. Cut the slices into such
shapes as is desired, removing the crusts
meanwhile. Spread the prepared bread
very lightly with choice butter. Then
press the candied mint leaves on to one
half of the slices, and cover them with
the other half. Or beat one-fourth a
cup of butter to a cream. Beat in one or
two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and fresh
mint leaves washed, dried, and chopped
fine, to give the color and flavor desired.
Use this as filling for bread prepared as
above.

SANDWICHES

Simple Well-Balanced Menus for
WEEK IN JANUARY

Breakfast

Shredded Wheat with

Apple Sauce and Top Milk

Sausage Meat Balls, Graham Toast

Mississippi Steamboat Potatoes

Coffee Cocoa

Dinner

Shepherd's Pie of Steak and Oysters

Steamed Squash

Stuffed Peach Salad, Mock Mayonnaise

Cup Custard, Caramel Cake

Coffee

Supper

Olive Rarebit on Toast

Sliced Dranges^and Bananas

Sally Lunn Tea

Breakfast

Quaker Oats with Chopped Dates

Creamed Codfish

Wheat Muffins

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Spanish Eggs

Whole Wheat Bread

Hearts of Lettuce

Preserved Pears Plain Cookies

Teal

Dinner

Roast^Leg of Veal

Mushrooms and Tomatoes

Mashed Potatoes

Stuffed Apples

Nut Cake Coffee

Breakfast

Wheatena, Top Milk

Orange Marmalade

Raised Waffles

Stewed Tripe

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Creamed Potatoes with Cheese

Currant Buns

Canned Strawberries Plain Cake

Tea

Dinner

Mutton Cutlets, Currant Jelly Sauce

Steamed Rice

Mashed Turnips

Celery

Raisin Pie Coffee

Breakfast

Sliced Oranges
^ Puffed Wheat with Hot Milk
Creamed Chopped Eggs on Toast
Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Bean Soup
Lettuce and Cream Cheese Salad

Crisped Rolls
Queen of Puddings Tea

Dinner

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Potato Puff

Baked Onions

Apple Tapioca Pudding

Coffee

Breakfast

Winter Pears

Gluten Grits, Top Milk

Broiled Fish Steaks, French FriedPotatoes

Popovers f M

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Meat Hash

Banana Fritters

Lettuce Salad

Raisin Bread, Ginger Cookies, '/Tea

Dinner

Smothered Ham

Spinach, Steamed White Potatoes

Jellied Oranges, Sugar Cookies

Coffee

Breakfast

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Baked Pigs' Feet

Fruit Pancakes

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Tomato Soup

Oyster Pie

Raised Biscuit

Celery-and-Apple Salad

Devil's Food Cake Tea

Dinner

Baked Mackerel, Tartar Sauce

Mashed Potatoes

Creamed Carrots
Lemon Pie Coffee

Breakfast

Baked Apple with Cream
Fried Corn-meal Mush, Syrup
Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes
Muffins Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Milk Toast

Apple, Nut, and Celery Salad

Brown-Bread-and-Lettuce

Sandwiches
Preserves Tea

Dinner

Sausage-and-Vea] Rolls

Tomato Sauce

Baked Sweet Potatoes

Apple Pie

Coffee

c
-

o
>

-
-

441

Menus For Special Occasions

A Page of Breakfasts

Light Breakfast I

Orange Juice
Thin Sliced Buttered Toast
Coffee

Light Breakfast II

Grapes

Vienna Rolls

Coffee

Breakfast for Business Man or Woman

Grapefruit
Shredded Wheat with Hot Milk
Broiled Chop. Creamed Potatoes
Muffins, Marmalade
Coffee

Breakfast for Outdoor Worker

Corn-meal Mush with Steamed Figs, Top Milk
Codfish Balls, Tomato Sauce
Whole Wheat Pancakes, Syrup
Coffee

Company (Twelve O'Clock) Breakfast for January

Orange-and-Strawberry Cocktail

Planked Rabbit, Sweet Potato Croquettes

Broiled Ham

Chopped Celery on Bed of Lettuce

Bread Sticks

Cream Muffins, Rolls

Raspberry or Loganberry Parfait

Toasted Crackers, Cream Cheese

Coffee

Breakfast for Sedentary Worker

Winter Pears

Wheatena with Cream

Broiled Whitefish, Baked Potato

Graham Toast

Coffee

Family Breakfast for Cold Weather

Baked Apples with Cream

Fried Mush, Honey

Pork Tenderloin, Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Waffles with Fresh Butter

Coffee

442

To Raise a Family in Whose Arteries the

Blood Leaps

By Kurt Heppe

IT is a matter of comment among
soldiers, that the old men of Europe
kept things going while the young
men were at war.

Women and graybeards kept the state
alive, and took care of the nation's
affairs.

It was no rarity to see men seventy
years of age in the morning look after the
stock, and then go into the fields for real
hard work.

What makes these people so hardy?

They live differently than we do.
They do not live on so high a plane.

In the provinces the simple life still
holds sway. The whole family lives in
a little one- or two-room cottage, where
pigs and fowl have free access.

While these conditions are not sanitary,
yet the almost constant stay in the open,
combined with a dietary almost entirely
vegetarian, gives them a reserve of robust
health.

While we do not recommend sleeping
with cats and dogs, still, should there not
be something for us to learn here? Is it
not a fact that our men, once they have
passed forty-five, are no longer able to
compete with the fellows of twenty?

It must be the simple life which pro-
vides these people with the panacea for
a healthy old age.

They do not know anything about
dietetics. But neither do they know
anything of high living. Their fare is
of the simplest.

Can it be the fact that they eat meat
but once a week that keeps them in such
excellent condition?

Arnold Lorand, Europe's greatest dieti-
tian, once stated that vitamines, minute
bodies, of which only a few grains are
found in a pound of food, are the agents
which keep the human machine in perfect
condition.

These vitamines are not found in
starch, they are imbedded in the outer
layers of grain.

Can it be that on account of eating
denatured grains (white flour bread) our
children are suffering from eczema and
eruptions?

For, after all, the human being is the
sum total of what he eats.

And in the world's beginning man
developed on the foods he found in the
fields. These foods were not denatured.
The grains were whole, and when he had
discovered the art of bread-making, he
made whole grain breads.

Furthermore, meat, in the form of game
(inasmuch as domestic animals were not
then in existence), was hard to get. It
required violent exercise, in the form of
pursuit, to obtain it. As one of the pre-
dominant human characteristics is strenu-
ous opposition to violent exercise, it may
be assumed that the early human pre-
ferred to content himself with vegetables
rather than spend days in catching game.

At that time his vegetable food was of
the wild-growing variety. It had not
yet been brought to the point of per-

443

444

AMERICAN COOKERY

fection, to which agriculture has now
developed it. Wild-growing foods are
bitter and full of fiber; they act in the
stomach vigorously, like a brush. The
bitter principles activate a copious flow
of bile (gall). The hardness of the
substance and the fibrosity required
strong chewing. This insalivated the
foods and predigested them. The vig-
orous exercise of the organs brought about
a being which in strength and muscular
development was not much inferior to
the great apes.

It was not then necessary to take spring
tonics and face massages. The bitter
principles of the modern tonics were
contained in all foods, and, as men did
not know the gentle art of smoking, they
were in the habit of chewing sweet barks
and dry roots.

Modern dietetics, although much
abused by faddists, offer to the housewife
a means of raising a strong, healthy
family. To do this, one has but to keep
in mind the conditions surrounding
primitive man. Our organs, today, still
are in the condition in which they were
when man was primitive. Our spiritual
development of the last few thousand
years has been far ahead of our bodily
organs. These latter still act as they
did a million years ago; and they still
require the same stimulants. They have
lost some of their hardihood, but this is
only a further detriment.

Some curious and interesting experi-
ments were carried on in New York not
long ago. In 34th Street, where Mr.
F. W. Fischer is operating a scientific
restaurant, a number of patients were
instructed to eat for a few months.

These patients were afflicted with
eczema, carbuncles, gout, and rheuma-
tism. They were not subject to any
regime, but were cautioned not to eat
meat, fish, or eggs more than once a day.

For the rest they were allowed to choose
freely from the menu.

Now, this restaurant prepares foods
from the anthropoid standpoint; that

means, all foods are anxiously protected
from loss of any kind during the process
of cooking.

Furthermore, there are offered, for the
patron's choice, raw foods, of diverse
kinds.

Breads, cakes, and pastries are made
from whole meal. And fruits and nuts
play a dominant part. It is, however,
not a vegetarian restaurant. And it
does not impose any faddist restrictions.

Of meats, it serves but two and a half
ounces per portion (two thin slices); of
fish, seven ounces. It encourages people
to eat but one egg at a time (by making
an attractive price on single eggs).

Without the proprietor being aware,
the patients ate freely of all dishes, and
after two months it was found that of
eczema and carbuncles there was not a
trace left. The nervous reactions were
greatly improved and rheumatism and
gout had almost disappeared.

The patients claimed they felt as
though they were walking on clouds (a
sure indication of the return of normal
functions).

The preservation of mineral salts, by
cooking vegetables and fruits in steam,
instead of in water, has a great deal to do
with this phenomenon. Modern man
has refined his cooking processes, until
they are no longer in harmony with the
demands of the body. Rich sauces,
spices, and pastries are direct agents of
decreased efficiency.

Vegetables cooked in steam, and pre-
pared with only butter, a little salt and
pepper, will soon build up a run-down
constitution. Add to these items whole-
grain breads and cakes, which provide
the necessary roughage and bulk, and
the inner organs will work without pills
and medicines.

Health, in a modern big city, is a thing
not easily retained. Life is complex,
and pleasures beckon to unnatural living.

Yet, if food is prepared with an under-
standing of man's early development,
then the leaping pulse, the vim and

SOLVING A PROBLEM IN HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS

445

vigor, and the manly energy will soon
reassert themselves.

An excessive meat diet, while producing
in life's first half extraordinary energy
and restless activitv, leaves the bodv a
used-up, empty shell after forty-five.

It acts like a furnace with forced
draught.

Simple fare and correctly prepared
foods will imbue the person with the
chaste health of the country lassie. It
will keep the human body the replica of
the divine form. It will not develop
excessive fat or obnoxious pugnacity.
But, rather, will it leave the mind free for
the contemplation of life's highest ideals.

Solving a Problem in Household Economics

By Robert W. Moulton

WHILE the present scarcity of
domestic help throughout the
country, which appears unlikely to be
relieved for a number of years to come,
has sadly disarranged the schedule of
work in thousands of homes, at Evanston,
Illinois, they have solved this perplexing
problem by establishing a Community
Kitchen. In the comparatively short
time it has been operating it has proved
a tremendous success, so much so that
it seems destined to become a permanent
fixture, no matter what the future may
hold in the way of cooks and maids.

The Evanston Community Kitchen
came into existence as the result of
efforts on the part of members of the
Evanston Woman's Club to furnish
meals to families in which all adult mem-
bers were ill during the epidemic of
influenza a year ago, and for which no
domestic help was available. This emer-
gency kitchen operated for several weeks,
furnishing on an average of two hundred
meals daily, catering not only to the ill
and convalescent, but to the robust
members of the household as well.

The success of this venture led to plans
for continuation of the work on an even
larger scale, when it became known last
summer that many families, unable to
obtain help, were taking their main meal
of the day in hotels and public dining-
rooms, instead of at their own fireside,
much as they preferred the privacy of
their own homes under other conditions.

Today the Kitchen has all the customers
it can take care of, with the probability
that one or more branches will be opened
during the winter months.

What has been accomplished in Evans-
ton can be done elsewhere. Just as the
city laundry has supplanted the, home
washtub to no small degree, and the
village bakery has taken the place of the
home oven, so the community kitchen
can now furnish the main meal of the
day to thousands of homes.

Under the new plan it is possible to
order dinners for the entire family, early
in the day, and have them delivered
steaming hot at the desired meal-time.
The delivery wagons leave the Evanston
Community Kitchen about 5.30 P.M.
each evening to call upon its various
customers. When the food has been
cooked, it is placed in especially built
containers. These containers are made
of aluminum and copper alloy, with heavy
glass lining, and are of high thermal
efficiency. Four different dishes, each
with a separate cover, are placed one on
top of the other. Then all four dishes,
with their hot meals, when ready, go
inside of the large insulated container.
Separate containers are used for ice-
cream and foods that are to be kept cold.

Each family receiving these daily
dinners owns its own containers, and these
are picked up each morning and returned
to the Community Kitchen.

A typical meal from the Community

446

AMERICAN COOKERY

Kitchen consists of chicken pie, mashed
potatoes, string beans, fresh fruit cup,
and cake. In the winter a soup is added.
It is taken for granted that coffee, bread,
butter, and milk can be furnished easily
in each home, and these items are. there-
fore, not a part of the regular meal from
the Kitchen. Dinners are served at
85 cents per person and Sunday dinners
at #1.00. The menu is changed from
night to night, but no family knows what
it will receive until the container is opened
and the meal served. In this respect it
differs but little from a meal prepared in
the home where the wife is usually the
only one who knows what is to be served
anyway.

In addition to the serving of hot din-
ners, aggregating nearly 600 a week, the
Community Kitchen has many customers
who come regularly for special dishes or
baking such as chicken pies, beef pies,
veal loaf, creamed sweetbreads, cold ham,
cold tongue, spaghetti, baked beans,
gingerbread, blueberry muffins, cheese

potatoes, rice pudding, pies, apple cake,
and cake. Only experts in cooking are
engaged, one specializing in salads, an-
other in pastries, and soon. Eight cooks
are employed in all.

The organization of a Community
Kitchen may be a very simple or a very
elaborate affair. Some guarantee will be
needed in any case. In Evanston, a
capital of #1,000 was thought sufficient
to launch the experimental kitchen.
That sum remains intact. The Kitchen
has paid for itself from the first and has
accumulated a fund for new equipment.
Local conditions will largely govern
costs of food materials, and prices will
need constant readjustment during these
"piping times of peace." The Evanston
prices, at the outset, were computed
under the advice of keen and successful
business men, counting cost of material,
labor, rent, ice, fuel, light, deterioration
overhead of all kinds, with a percentage
added to this sum total as a margin of
safety.

The Renegade

"Guess you wish that you could be

Right out in the street like me.

I can stay out in the wet,

And you never did that yet;

I just don't care what I do,

I can get run'd over, too!

You can't, 'cause you got a Maw:

I ain't got no Maw or Paw."

"Don't you wish that you were me?
I can cuss, too — Hully gee!
Guess you have to say your prayers:
I don't, 'cause I sleep down stairs;
One time I 'most wished I could,
But I don't know them very good;
'Cause one night I saw a ghost —
I nearly did — just — almost —
You would hollo for your Maw:
I ain't got no Maw or Paw."

"Bet you're mad when you get scold?

I don't do a thing I'm told;

Can you climb trees and never fall?

I can, and never fall a-tall.

One time I stayed out 'bout all night,

One time I 'most had a fight.

Bet you wish you had no Maw:

I ain't got no Maw or Paw."

— Donald F.-R. MacGregor.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

The Cluttered House

"T\0 you know," remarked Mathilda

\J Ann, as she languidly came up the
steps and flung herself, with absolute
abandon, on the porch couch, "that I am
invariably exhausted after a visit with
Mrs. Zinn. Can any one explain it?"

I looked up from my embroidery, and
slowly shook my head. I had not the
faintest idea how to solve that problem,
if it really were a problem, and I won-
dered how such a foolish notion had taken
possession of our usually sensible
Mathilda Ann.

"I can," calmly replied Aunt Jane,
who was gently rocking, while briskly
knitting on a bright red sweater for little
Jimmie.

"Tell us in a hurry, Aunt Jane, for
I'm desperate to have this mystery
explained." Mathilda Ann was all im-
patience.

"It's because her house is cluttered
from one end to the other. There isn't
a square foot of peaceful quiet to rest the
eyes on from the dozens of sea shells,
souvenir trays, queer ornamental vases,
cheap pictures, and a mixture of bric-a-
brac. The bedrooms have a lot of
draperies and fixings that are so un-
necessary one has to carefully dodge
about to keep from disturbing or knock-
ing things over."

"There now you have said it," ex-
claimed Mathilda Ann, "when I didn't
think you had it in you. I wonder, are
you right?"

"Of course I'm right. I've been
watching such things for a good many

years. There was a da}' when fussed-up
things about a house was the style, but
since we've taken to living so hard and
fast we must simplify somewhere, and
that somewhere seems to be the old-
fashioned conglomeration of junk that
wearies the eyes to look at it, and wearies
the body to keep it clean."

"That's the whole case in a nutshell,
I am sure." Mathilda Ann sighed a
tired little sigh and snuggled more closely
on the couch.

"Take Mrs. Marston for example,"
Aunt Jane continued. "You go there
for the afternoon, you find even-thing
neat, but no room contains more than its
requisite amount of furnishings for com-
fort and simplified beauty. There are
always bouquets of fresh flowers about,
a few books and magazines on the table,
but the rooms are not cluttered with
useless junk. When you come home
from there you are rested and contented,
rather than weary and disgusted with
visiting."

"All you say may be true," I hastily
interposed, "but what should a person
do who has all these things that Mrs.
Zinn has?"

"Store them away," was the calm
reply. "Keep out a few pieces at a
time — ■ enough for the needs of the
family and for the touch of adornment.
Vary these articles for the sake of change,
but save yourself the nerve-wrecking
work of keeping them all on exhibition all
the time — also save the nerves of the
family and your friends from a cluttered
house."

"You certainly are a dear old surprise,

447

448

AMERICAN COOKERY

Aunt Jane," Mathilda Ann smiled
sweetly, "and when I furnish my nest I
shall keep my nuisance treasures hoarded
away in the attic trunk, and only on
spring and fall cleaning days shall I bring
them to the light — one by one — and
soulfully think of the giver or the cir-
cumstance that brought each one to me."
"That is what I consider sensible talk,
Mathilda Ann, and you will appreciate
the importance of simple furnishings
more a few years from now when you
have become well initiated into the
labors of housekeeping. It is well to
have changes and extras for emergencies,
but for the benefit of all thrown in contact
with you and your house, it is best to
minimize the display of ornamental
decorations." m. l. c.

promptly. Do not serve too many kinds
of foods at one meal. Have a reasonable
variety and enough of it.

* *

A Penny Saved is a Penny Earned

IN baking, excellent results may be
obtained from buttermilk, which some
milkmen sell for considerably less than
fresh milk. Treat it as sour milk, or if
only faintly acid, use half the usual
quantity of soda and a little more than
the same quantity of baking powder.

While the price of good butter is
menacingly high, use it twice a day for
the benefit of the vitamines, and for
the third meal use a good "spread" of
some kind, — peanut butter, jam, fruit
marmalade, tinted oleomargarine, served
frankly for what it is. When tinting it,
add more salt.

In preparing meals, estimate amounts
with good judgment. Some are so lavish
as to cause much waste. Others are so
frugal as to stint their families. Of the
two faults, the former is to be preferred,
for left-overs may be used if one will,
and insufficiently fed people pay the bill
sooner or later in lowered efficiency or
nervous depletion.

Take proper care of all left-overs
and plan to use them to good purpose

Much good food is spoiled because of
ill cooking and worse flavoring. Fried
foods are over-cooked and rendered in-
digestible and chippy; stews and fricas-
sees are cooked until an unappetizing
mush; rolls to be warmed are burned or
dried; roasts are put into cool ovens and
the juices drawn out and the meat left
dry and tasteless.

It is poor economy to spoil a dish of
vegetables which has cost time and
money, for want of a little butter, milk,
or whatever may be needed to serve it
properly.

Dishes like potato, fish, and cabbage
salads should be seasoned in advance,
so that the dressing and its flavors will
strike through. A drop of vanilla and
the right amount of sugar makes all the
difference in the world in whipped cream.
A little oil raises many a salad from the
ranks of the commonplace and a dust
of paprika, onion or celery salt is often
the difference between success and failure.

Some one may ask — "What have these
things to do with 'Economy' in cooking?'3

When foods are right, and are relished,
there is no waste. Fewer kinds are
needed at each meal and the family is
kept more physically fit and happy.
To be physically fit means fewer doctor-
and-medicine bills, less lost time, and a
greater capacity for work and play.
This means that physical fitness is re-
created as Nature intended and so the
victorious circle is completed.

Fine cookery is an art that every
woman should be proud to master.

E. G. W.
* * *

Honey Desserts

IN the making of many desserts, honey
may be used in place of, or in connec-
tion with, sugar or molasses. The flavor

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

449

of good honey combines especially well
with spices and flavoring commonly used
in such dishes. The following recipes
are suggestive, and honey can be used in
others by substituting a cup of honey for
a cup of sugar.

Baked Honey Custard
Take five eggs, half a cup of honey,
four cups of scalded milk, one-fourth
teaspoonful, each, of powdered cinna-
mon and salt. Beat the eggs just enough
to unite white and yolk. Add the other
ingredients and bake in cups or in a large
pan in a moderate oven. It is best to
set the baking dishes in a pan of water.

Boiled Honey Custard

Two cups of milk, yolks of three eggs,
half a cup of honey, and a pinch of salt.
Mix the honey, eggs, and salt. Scald
the milk and pour it over the other.
Cook in a double boiler till the mixture
thickens.

Honey Pudding

Use half a cup of honey, six ounces of
bread crumbs, half a cup of milk, rind
of half a lemon, two eggs, two tablespoon-
fuls of butter, and half a teaspoonful of
ginger. Mix the honey and bread crumbs,
then add the milk, seasonings, and yolks
of eggs. Beat thoroughly and add the
butter and whites of the eggs well beaten.
Steam for two hours in a pudding mold
or pan which is not quite full.

Honey Ice Cream

Take a pint each of milk and cream,
the yolks of six eggs, and a cup of deli-
cately flavored honey. Heat the milk
in a double boiler, pour it on the honey
and eggs beaten together; return to the
boiler and cook till it thickens, then add
the cream and a little flavoring. When
the mixture is cool, freeze it. For those
who do not like eggs in ice-cream a
quart of thin cream and half a cup of
honey may be used, with the desired
flavoring.

Honey Mousse
Heat one cup of well-flavored honer.
Beat four eggs slightly, and slowly pour
the hot honey over them. Cook until
the mixture thickens, and when it is cool
add a pint of cream, whipped. Put the
mixture into a mold, pack in salt and ice,
and let it stand three or four hours.

H. F. G.

* * *

Two Choice Cookies

THE first recipe won first prize at the
Connecticut State Fair, and a five-
dollar prize at the New York State Fair.
Besides this, these cookies have met with
favor wherever offered. They are much
better after the first day. They keep
nicely and are as good to look at as they
are to eat.

CHOCOLATE JUMBLES

2 cups sugar

3 eggs

1 cup melted short-
ening

2 squares melted
chocolate

1 teaspoonful soda
dissolved in

2 tablespoonfuls warm
water

4 cups flour

Roll. Cut out with cake-cutter and
frost the top when the cookies are cool,
using boiled frosting.

Very good results may be obtained bo-
using one-half of the recipe and taking
two eggs, saving the white of the one for
the frosting.

It is easy to vary the amount of choco-
late, if one likes it a little stronger or with
less.

Another very delicious cooky is made
with a filling of suitable fruits. It is
unusual and extremely satisfying.

FILLED COOKIES

1 cup sugar
\ cup shortening
| cup milk
2\ cups flour

2 teaspoonfuls cream

tartar
1 teaspoonful soda
1 teaspoonful vanilla

FILLING

1 cup chopped figs

or raisins
\ cup sugar

Cook until thick.

\ cup water
1 teaspoonful flour
mixed with the sugar

Roll the cookies out

450

AMERICAN COOKERY

thin. Put one teaspoonful of the filling
on the center of a cooky and flatten it
down. Place another cooky on top.
Press the edges together and bake.

These do not keep so very well, as after
the second or third day the moist filling
begins to soften up the cooky covering.
For this reason it is not advisable to make
a large number. The rule given will
make two plates, and these can easily be
disposed of while they are at their best.

e. g. w.
* * *

Pound Cake

ALMOST every one likes pound cake,
but it makes such a large loaf for a
small family.

My half-pound cake is very good, cooks
in about one hour, and is just large enough
for any ordinary occasion.
This is the recipe:

\ teaspoonful baking

powder
5 eggs

1 cup butter (scant)
If cups sugar

2 cups flour, sifted
three times

Cream butter; add sugar. Do not
separate the eggs, but add them, one at a
time, to the butter and sugar, beating
well after each one.

The only thing to be avoided in making
this cake is the use of too much butter.
It must not be packed in the cup. Bake
in a slow oven. a. g. s.

An Artistic, Inexpensive Breakfast
Room Equipment

ARE you interested in decorating your
own furniture, putting your own
ideas and yourself into your home? If
so, I will confide in you how I did this
very th:ng, and at a low cost.

I bought, through a local furniture
store, an unpainted, pine breakfast table
for $9.50. I painted this with two coats
of light gray paint, rubbing it down
between coats with the finest quality of
sandpaper. Then the table was given
two coats of light gray enamel.

The six chairs I already had. They

were the common old "kitchen chair,"
varnished. These I sandpapered down
enough to roughen the surface, so the
paint would take well. These were
painted in the same way as the table.

I use, on the gray table, a set of Sanitas
doilies, which I also made, and you can
make, too. The place mats are 18x11
inches; the center mat is 22 x 15 inches.
These are painted in the upper left-hand
corner with a gay flower design of "many
colors," like Joseph's coat! A narrow
band of canary yellow finished the
doilies on the edges. It takes one yard
of Sanitas, costing 65 cents.

The gray table is most attractive when
set with the Sanitas set. They save the
table linen and the washing and ironing
of the same; and to freshen them I wipe
them off with a damp cloth, and occasion-
ally wash them with lukewarm water and
ivory soap.

You have no idea how much more
you will enjoy your table if you paint it
yourself, and put some of your own self-
expression into your home furnishings.

A. C. H.
* * *

Washing Laces

In the delightful old novel of ' Cran-
ford," the ladies washed their laces in milk
and water, and the Director of one of the
modern English lace schools asserts that
even now she knows no better method.
Instead of the bottle which is so often
used for such purposes, she suggests
spreading the lace around a piece of
smooth-finished wood, and letting it
float itself clean. Then put it away in
blued flannel. To do this, take a piece
of heavy white flannel and soak it in
bluing repeatedly until it can absorb
no more. If the lace is white when put
away, the bluing will aid in keeping it so.

M. j. H.

Housewife: "If you love work, why
don't you find it?" Begging Tramp:
"Love is blind, ye know." — Judge.

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully-
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4104. — "Please give me the
menu for an up-to-date Five O'clock Tea, or
refreshments suited to an afternoon gathering
of twenty-five or more ladies.

"Also suggest some Toasts for Dinner
Occasions."

The correct five o'clock tea consists
simply of tea and wafers, or very thin
sandwiches, or the English paper-thin
slices of buttered bread. For a gather-
ing of the size you mention, all of these
— ■ that is, wafers, sandwiches, and the
transparently thin slices of buttered
bread, which it is a fine art to cut — ■ may
be provided for the sake of freedom in
choice.

Refreshments for an "At Home," or
following a club meeting, or an afternoon
of Red Cross work, or the like, may
include a choice of tea, coffee, or choco-
late; two kinds of sandwiches, sweet and
savory; salad with saltines; ice cream
or sherbet, with cake and macaroons,
and bonbons. Between these two ex-
tremes there is scope for more or less
elaboration.

Toasts for Dinner Occasions

Since much of the enjoyment of good
toasts comes from clever local allusions,
it would be difficult to make specific
suggestions for dinners in general. Al-
most any subject, if well handled, will
stimulate a good response. Such topics
of current interest as the coal strike and
the "wet" and "dry" issues, treated
with humor and without political bias,
furnish unfailing springs of interest.

Local practices and happenings, covert
and complimentary allusions to the guest
of honor, or to the business or profession
of other prominent guests, will be in
order. There is a small book published
by the H. W. Wilson Co., White Plains,
N. Y., called "The Toaster's Handbook,"
by Peggy Edmond and Harold Workman
Williams (both pseudonyms), which deals
with the subject very effectively. Try
for this in your town library.

Query Xo. 4105. — "Please give me recipes
for some good Candies made from Gelatine,
aside from marshmallows."

Raspberry Jujubes

Take one-half package of any good
granulated gelatine, and put into a double
boiler with one-half cup of syrup strained
from raspberry, or from any other rich
preserve. Add three-eighths of a cup of
glycerine, measured very carefully. Let
all stand together for half an hour, then
cook very slowly in the double boiler
until the gelatine is entirely dissolved and
the mixture smooth and syrupy. Avoid
stirring while cooking, or the jujubes will
be cloudy instead of clear. Then pour
into a shallow dish, carefully wetted all
over, and when cold cut in dice. Glycer-
ine is used instead of sugar to keep the
jujubes soft. They should be kept in a
cool place, or they may stick together;
or powdered sugar may be sifted over
them to prevent this, but then the pretty,
clear ruby tint will be hidden.

451

452

AMERICAN COOKERY

Orange Pastelles

Dissolve one-half cup of granulated
sugar in two — or at most three — ■ table-
spoonfuls of water in a smooth saucepan.
Hydrate one tablespoonful of granulated
gelatine in four tablespoonfuls of cold
water, and when all the water has been
absorbed add to the sugar and cook
together until the mixture boils. Re-
move from fire; add the juice and grated
yellow rind of one-half an orange, and one-
half cup of confectioner's sugar, and work
all together with a wooden spatula until
the mixture is smooth and begins to
thicken. Then spread on a slab or dish
in a thick layer, and when firm cut into
squares, and roll in granulated sugar
mixed with one fourth its volume of
grated orange rind.

^Turkish Delight

Hydrate one-half package of gelatine
in one-fourth cup of cold water. "Add
one cup of boiling water and two cups of
sugar, and cook together until mixture
boils, then let simmer ten minutes.
Add flavoring, such as lemon juice and
grated rind, or any other fruit juice from
canned or preserved fruit — about three
or four tablespoonfuls. Pour on dish or
pan in a layer one-half an inch thick, and
when firm have ready a tin box lined
with waxed paper, cut the jelly to fit this,
and sift between the layers a mixture of
equal parts of corn starch and powdered
sugar.

Query No. 4106. — "Will you please give a
recipe for Blanching, Browning, and Salting
Almonds?

"What kind of almonds should I buy, and
what is the return per pound?"

To Blanch Almonds

Put over fire in cold water to cover,
bring water quickly to a boil, drain
almonds through colander, then let cold
water flow over them, or immerse col-
ander for a moment in very cold water.
Place almonds immediately between
coarse towels, and rub off brown skins.

To Brown Almonds

Thoroughly dry the blanched almonds,
and coat with olive oil by shaking in a
bowl or other vessel with two tablespoon-
fuls of oil to one cup of the nuts. Brown
in pan over fire, stirring or shaking to get
an even color; or spread the oiled nuts on
a baking sheet, and set this on the rack
of a hot oven. Drain on absorbent
paper.

To Salt Almonds

While still hot from the fire sift fine
table salt over the nuts in the proportion
of one tablespoonful to a cup of nuts.

If oil, salt, and blanched nuts are
mixed, and let stand overnight in the
refrigerator, the salt will penetrate the
nuts, instead of being on the outside only.
Or the quicker method may be employed
of cooking the blanched nuts in very
strongly salted butter, and then draining
thoroughly.

Any good quality of nuts may be used,
the paper shelled ones have generally
thinner shells and larger kernels. The
return to be expected depends on loca-
tion, on attractive boxing, etc. Twice
the gross cost of the materials used is an
average estimate.

Query No. 4107. — -"I wish a recipe for
Mince Meat made Without Meat, but with
apples, raisins, etc.

"What kind of cider would you use?

"I also want a recipe for Veal Loaf, or Mousse,
made with little meat.

"I wish several recipes for good Sunday
Night Supper Dishes, hot or cold."

Mince Meat Without Meat

The recipe for mince meat given in
answer to Query No. 4096, on page 371
of the December number of this magazine,
may be used, provided twelve hard-
boiled eggs are substituted for the meat
and meat juice in that recipe. Similarly,
eggs can be substituted for meat in the
recipe for any mince pie filling; and
butter, if desired, may be substituted for
suet, using one-fifth less butter.

Here is a recipe for

ADVERTISEMENTS

wh\j make
such expensive
cak^?

Crisco is always sold in this air-
tight, sanitary container— nev er
in bulk. There is nothing else
like it. One pound net weight,
and larger sizes.

When should egg whites be
beaten into a cake, and when
folded in ?

What kind of flavoring re-
tains its taste best through
baking ?

Learn the answers to these
questions, also to scores of other
important questions about all
kinds of cooking, in "The Whys
of Cooking*', a book written es-
pecially for Crisco users by
Janet McKenzie Hill, founder
of The Boston Cooking School
and editor of "American Cook-
ery". Correct instructions for
setting the table and serving
meals. Many new recipes. 108
pages. Illustrated in color.
Sent, postpaid, for only 10 cents
in stamps. Address Dept. A-l,
The Procter & Gamble Co.,
Cincinnati, Ohio.

There is really no need to use expensive
butter in cakes, since you can make even
the most delicate cakes taste as if made
with butter, just by using Crisco plus extra
salt — one level teaspoonful of salt for every
cupful of Crisco.

Not only does Crisco cost only about half
as much as butter, but less is required, be-
cause Crisco is 100% richness — a solid
cream of wholesome vegetable oil — while
butter is part water, salt and curd.

You always can depend on Crisco, because
it is made by a special process so that it is
always the same. It does not turn rancid.
It is always pure, fresh, colorless, tasteless,
and odorless. White cakes, enriched with
Crisco, have a snowy, light-as-a-feather
tenderness that is as delightful as their
delicate flavor.

Crisco is as good for frying and
pastry making as it is for cake

Crisco is a better, all-purpose cooking
fat. Flaky pie-crust, light biscuits, and
crisp, greaseless fried foods that are as
digestible as they are good, reward
the cook who uses nothing but Crisco
in her kitchen. Get Crisco at your
grocer's.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

453

454

AMERICAN COOKERY

Apple Mince Meat

Chop very fine three-quarter? of a
pound of beef suet from the kidney, and
sprinkle with two teaspoonfuls of salt.
Pare, core, and chop two pounds of sour
apples, and mix with one pound, each,
of chopped raisins and cleaned currants.
Mix these with the suet. Sift together
two pounds of sugar, one teaspoonful,
each, of powdered cloves and grated
nutmeg, and one tablespoonful, each, of
powdered cinnamon and allspice. Mix
these with the suet and fruit; add the
juice and grated rind of one lemon, and a
cup of sweet c'der, Candied orange peel,
or chopped c \ron, may be added, about
four ounces of either, or of the two mixed.
Can the mixture by packing into glass
jars and using the cold-process method.

Veal Loaf, Made With Little Meat

Put through food-chopper two pounds
of raw veal, and chop fine. Moisten
one-half pound of stale bread with hot
water by pouring over the slices and then
squeeze out superfluous liquid. Add to
the moistened bread while still hot one-
half cup of butter or butter substitute,
one teaspoonful of pepper, one table-
spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of
celery salt, and two teaspoonfuls of
onion juice. Mix with the chopped veal,
bind with two or three well-beaten eggs,
and bake in pan in slow oven for one and
one-half to two hours. Use warm or
cold.

One-quarter pound of chopped bacon
or salt pork gives a good flavor to this
loaf. The proportions of veal and bread
may be altered, and one-half more or less
of either be used.

The foregoing recipe may be changed
into a veal mousse by using cold cooked
meat, four eggs, whites and yolks beaten
separately, and cooking over hot water
until firm.

Sunday Night Supper Dishes

The veal loaf, given above, is excellent
for Sunday night supper. The Cheese

Ramequins, and Eggs au Gratin, on page
117 of the August-September number of
American Cookery, and the Salmon
Pie on page 118 of the same number;
the Macaroni and Chicken Pudding, on
page 276 of the November number; the
Veal and Ham Pie, Yankee Boy Steak,
Onion Dumplings with Potato Crust,
on pages 193, 194, and 196, respectively,
of the magazine for October, all make
excellent dishes for Sunday Night Sup-
pers. Here are two others.

Jellied Oysters

Hydrate one-half box of gelatine in
one-half cup of cold water, and dissolve
in three cups of hot fish stock, or oyster
liquor mixed with water and seasoned
with vinegar, parsley, etc. Pour into
a two-quart bowl to the depth of one
inch, and let cool. When firm set on
this a one-quart bowl; fill this with
chopped ice, and pour around it enough
jelly to come nearly to the brim. When
the jelly is firm, remove the bowl (it
can be filled with hot water instead of
ice, to loosen it from the jelly) and put
into the cavity enough cold cooked
oysters to fill it. Pour the remainder of
the jelly over all, and when the whole has
solidified, turn out on platter, garnish
with lettuce, or cress, and serve with a
good mayonnaise or boiled dressing.

Beef Olives With Apples

Pound a piece of round steak three-
fourths an inch thick to one-half that
thickness, without breaking the fibres.
Cut in strips 2x3 inches, spread with any
highly seasoned meat or bread filling,
roll, and skewer. Cook in butter in hot
pan until brown.

Pare and core four sour apples, and
slice into rings one-half an inch thick.
Cook in butter in a separate pan, covered,
until soft. Add to pan a little sugar, and
continue to cook apples, uncovered,
until slightly brown.

Pile the beef olives in the center of a
dish, and surround with the apples.
Garnish with parsley.

ADVERTISEMENTS

.'•'/'

^:-.v

*• •

i -f - ,»' ■

-'•V •-- ' T*- ^**'i

■

' * -" • . i >

Row did the ancient Egyptians
raise their dough?

Four thousand years ago the
Egyptians leavened their bread
with sour dough left from the last
baking — dough full of all manner
of yeasts and bacteria from the air.

This has been proved .by micro-
scopic examination of barley bread
found in the tombs of ancient
Egypt. Not the least interesting
part of this is that the same primi-
tive method has persisted for liter-
ally thousands of years — and is
even today in use in sections of
Europe and the countries of the
southern hemisphere.

Since that time there have been

many new methods of leavening
but the latest chapter is baking
powder, and the final development
in baking powder is Ryzon. It is
made of pure, healthful, econom-
ical ingredients, combined with
scientific accuracy.

Ryzon is packed in full 16 ounce pounds
— also 25c and 15c packages. The ne<zu
Ryzon Baking Book (original price Si • 00) ,
containing 250 practical recipes, <nxill he
mailed, postpaid upon receipt of 30c in
stamps or coin, except in Canada. A
pound tin of Ryzon <voill be sent free,
postpaid, to any domestic science teacher
-ucho -tvrites us on school stationery, giv-
ing official position.

GENERALCHEMICALTO.

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

The Ryzon

level

measure

Ryz

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

455

456

AMERICAN COOKERY

Query No. 4108. — '"Will you kindly give a
recipe for Sour Cream Cake?

"Please tell me how to make a Pineapple
Filling for layer cake?"

Sour Cream Cake

Sift together two cups and one-fourth
of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking
powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and
one-teaspoonful, each, of cinnamon and
nutmeg. Add one cup and one-fourth of
sugar, one-half cup of nuts, and one cup
of chopped and floured raisins. Stir
into one cup of thick, sour cream, one-
fourth teaspoonful of baking soda, dis-
solved in one tablespoonful of water.
Add to this one-fourth cup of softened,
or barely melted butter, and stir together
enough to mix. Combine the flour and
other dry ingredients with the cream and
butter; beat together for a minute, and
bake in a loaf tin, lined with greased
paper. If eggs are plentiful, one or two
will make the cake richer.

As a general rule, any cake recipe may
be changed to one for sour cream, by
substituting sour cream for sweet milk,
adding one-fourth teaspoonful of soda
to each cup of the cream, and counting
the cream as equal to one-third cup of
butter. Thus, if you wished to use sweet
milk in the foregoing recipe, you would
reverse this process, by substituting one
cup of milk for one cup of cream, omitting
the soda, and adding one-third cup of
butter to the quarter-cup prescribed.

A sour-milk cake recipe is easily
changed to one for sour cream, by simple
substitution of cream for milk, and
counting the cream as equal to one-
third a cup of butter.

Pineapple Filling for Layer Cake

The canned, shredded pineapple,
drained from the syrup, and spread be-
tween the layers, makes a very good
filling. The syrup may be used as a
basis for the frosting.

Or the shredded pineapple, syrup and
all, may be thickened with beaten egg,
one egg to a cup of pineapple, cooked to-
gether like soft custard.

Or two tablespoonfuls of butter may
be rubbed together with two table-
spoonfuls of flour, and cooked with one
cup of shredded canned pineapple until
thick enough to spread in a good, deep
layer.

In every case a little sugar may be
added, if desired. The sliced canned
pineapple should be chopped fine; and
fresh pineapple should be grated when
you wish to use it for cake filling.

How to Prevent Lamp Chimneys
from Cracking

HOUSEKEEPERS who have been
troubled by the frequent cracking
of their lamp chimneys, owing to the
poor quality of glass since the war, will
be interested to hear of this simple,
preventative measure.

Hang an ordinary wire hairpin over
the top of the lamp chimney. When the
lamp is lighted, the metal hairpin will
heat very rapidly, thereby helping to
equalize the temperature of the globe.

This device has been tried in our house-
hold for several months, with surprising
results; and has saved us many twenty-
five cent pieces. h. p. y.

How to Prevent Bread and Cake
f |*j Tins from Sticking]

MY old Southern Cook always uses
this method to keep her cake,
bread or any small irregular-shaped tins
from sticking.

She first rubs the inside of the tin
thoroughly with salt, then she puts a
layer of salt one inch thick in the bottom
of the tin, and places the utensil in a hot
oven and bakes it for one hour. If the
oven is only moderately hot she leaves
the tin in the oven for three or four hours.

She treats all new tins before they are
used, but old ones may be prepared in the
same way.

Her method is simple and the results
obtained more than repays her for her
labor. b. w. d.

"Hooray! Do it again.

WHO cares about an unexpected spill in the snow? These sturdy little
folk enjoy the fun of healthful, out-door play in snowy weather as in
summer-time.

Mother safeguards against cold and hunger by giving them each a steam-
ing bowl of Wheatena as their cereal for breakfast. Wheatenaf the roasted,
all-wheat cereal, supplies the proper nourishment for a sound foundation of
strength, and tastes so good, children, and big folks too, never tire of the sweet,
nutty flavor.

Wheatena is cooked and
ready to serve in 3 minutes.

The quickness and ease with which Wheatena is prepared makes it a
real boon to housewives. And Wheatena can be served in
many tasty recipes that are equally delicious for every meal
of the day.

Wheatena is sold by all grocers. Send for our Recipe
Book. Free on request.

The Wheatena Company,

Wheatena ville,

Railway, Xew Jersey

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

457

The Silver Lining

Extremists

There was once a young maiden named Rose,
Fond of Fashion's extreme furbelows;

And a new "silhouette"

Though she knew silly, yet
She would straightway adopt if she chose.

So by freaks which old Dame Fashion hath,
Rose would sometimes seem thin as a lath,

In some style like the willow;

Then again, like a pillow,
She would look as she walked down^the path.

When it came to the waist-line, ah, me!
You could never tell where hers might be;

For one day it would soar,

And the next it would lower,
From perhaps F in alt to low G.

And no wonder it was, I suppose,
At the Opera, then, all the beaus

Who regard with esteem,

Girls who wear the extreme,
At the sight of Miss Rose, rose in rows!

— Blanche Elizabeth Wade.

THERE need never be any "if" about it.
Your cakes and everything else you
bake always taste perfect when the oven
has had the right temperature. And today
you can make sure that your oven does have
the right temperature — every time! By the
Taylor Oven Thermometer.

TAYLOR HOME SET

The Taylor Oven Thermometer ($2.00)
tells the exact heat of the oven in figures.
The Taylor Candy Thermometer ($1.50) tells
the exact heat in boiling. The Taylor Sugar
Meter ($1.00) tells the exact thickness of
syrups.

Taylor Instrument Companies

ROCHESTER, N. Y.

Write for the Taylor
Recipe Books — three of
them.

If your dealer
can't supply the Tay-
lor Home Set, or will
not order for you,
mail $4.50 (price of
complete set) direct,
to us with dealer's
name, and it will be
sent you prepaid.
(Prices in Canada
and far West propor-
tionately higher.)

AA9

Those Rural Profiteers

And men relate that Mrs. Newlywed
went to the grocery store to do her morn-
ing marketing. And she was determined
that the grocer should not take ad-
vantage of her youth and inexperience.

"These eggs are dreadfully small," she
criticized.

" I know it," he answered. " But that's
the kind the farmer brings me. They are
just fresh from the country this morning.',

"Yes," said the bride, "and that's the
trouble with those farmers. They are so
anxious to get their eggs sold that they
take them off the nest too soon!"

— Cleveland Plain Dealer.

"More Wittles

Dr. Fort Newton, former pastor of the
London City Temple, tells of a clergyman
who went to an hotel in London to order
dinner for a number of clerical friends.

"May I ask, sir," said the waiter,
"whether the party is High Church or
Low Church?"

"Why do you ask?"

"Because, sir, if High Church, I must
provide more wine; if Low Church, more
wittles." — Tit-Bits.

Lowered Percentage

Donald: "D'ye ken Mac felljin the
river on his way hame last nicht?"

Willie: "Ye dinna mean tae say he
was drooned?"

Donald: "Not drooned, but badly
diluted." — London Ideas.

Universal Peace Delayed

A modern Aesop relates that a rooster
was once feeding beside the road and,
seeing a fox approach, promptly flew into
a convenient tree.

"Have you heard the great news?" the
fox asked.

The rooster replied he had heard no
news.

Buy Advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

458

"Nine

Ten

Are Underfed"

Late statistics show that average food
cost since 1914, has risen 85 per cent.

A Chicago Board of Health authority
is quoted as stating that, on this account,
nine folks in ten are being underfed.

That is Unnecessary

Study the facts below. Foods are
commonly measured by energy units, by
calories. A man must have 3,000 calories
daily, else he is underfed.

In meat, eggs, fish, etc., those 3,000 calories cost about $1.50. Most folks can't afford that. In
Quaker Oats 3,000 calories cost 16^ cents.

Note these facts about£some necessary foods, based on prices at this writing:

Compare These Costs

Quaker Oats

costs 1 cent per big dish, or
5J cents per 1,000 calories.

Meats

1 cent per bite, or 45 cents
per 1,000 calories.

Egg*

70 cents per 1,000 calories

Muffins
1 cent each

Potatoes

1 cent each

Custard
4 cents per serving

Note that meats, eggs, fish, etc., average nine times Quaker Oats cost for the same calory value.
Yet the oat is the supreme food. It is almost a complete food. It costs but one cent for a big
dish. And folks who eat it are not underfed.

We don't urge living on Quaker Oats alone, but make it your basic breakfast.

World-Famous for Its Flavor

Quaker Oats has won a world-wide fame through its exquisite flavor. It is flaked from queen
grains only — just the rich, plump, flavory oats. We get but ten pounds from a bushel. Yet it
costs no extra price.

15c and 35c per package

Except in the Far West and South
Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover 3264

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

459

TECO

SELF-RISING

Pancake

and Buckwheat

Flour

IV s in the Flour,

Hot cakes! In a minute!

Made with Teco pancake and buckwheat

flour.

Wheat cakes ! Waffles ! Gems !

Make the finest easily and quickly with
Teco pancake flour and cold water.

Buckwheat cakes !

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add
cold water to Teco buckwheat flour.

For our new buttermilk book write to

THE EKENBERG CO.

506 Cambridge St., Cortland, N. Y.

Sawteb Crystal Blue Co., N. E. Agts.

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

DEERFOOT FARM
SAUSAGE

Made in the same old-fashioned
way. Only the tenderest, leanest
parts of the pig — chopped not too
fine — with spicy herbs to lend
piquant flavor — that's the genuine.

Flavor and quality
nave made Deerfoot
Farm Sausage famous.
Be 6ure you. get Ithe
genuine.

*J° other sausage has that distinctive
taste. J And you may be sure that every-
thing that goes into the making of Deer-
f ooti.Farm Sausage is of the highest quality.

Sold in 1 -pound links in parchment packages;

i-pound boxes of sausage meat and 2 and

4 pound bags of sausage meat.

SOLD BY ALL GOOD DEALERS

DEERFOOT FARM, SOTTTHBOROCGH, MASS.

We prize the name
Deerfoot too highly
ever to let it stand
for anything but the
best.

Well," said the fox, "universal peace
has been declared. In future foxes will
play with chickens, and lions with lambs.
There is to be no more strife in the world,
and no more work and worry. Come on
down and play with me, and we will cele-
brate the great news."

But the rooster was doubtful, and the
two argued back and forth. Finally the
fox said: "If you intend to come down
and play with me and celebrate the
universal peace you'll have to hurry; I
see a dog approaching."

"If universal peace has been declared,"
replied the rooster, "why not remain and
play with the dog?"

"I am afraid," answered the fox as he
made off, "that that fool dog hasn't
heard the news." — E. W. Howe, in
Saturday Evening Post.

A little girl had been taken to church
for the first time, and she was somewhat
surprised by the general style of the
building, which was quite unlike anything
she had previously seen. "Whose house
is this ? " she asked. " It is God's house,"
her mother answered. The child took
another critical view of the building. " It
is a very nice house," she finally solilo-
quized. "We have never called here
before." — Boston Transcript.

The demand of the Brooklyn plumbers
for a ten-dollar-a-day wage suggests the
probable fulfilment of Mr. Charles Dud-
ley Warner's prophecy, spoken thirty-five
years ago. He was then paying his
masons $4 a day, and was struck by the
serenity, the wholesome restfulness, with
which they consumed the hours in slum-
ber. "I have reason to believe," he
observed thoughtfully, "that when the
wages of mechanics are raised to $8 and
$10 a day, the workmen will not come at
all; they will merely send their cards."
— Life.

First Citizen: "You can't stop a man
from thinking!"

Second Ditto: "No, the difficulty is
to start him!" — Chicago News.

460

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

Do you know what is being](hne
'ncWashiru]ton to Safyuimi
foe American Sable

*0 1 *

DO you know that a great
food industry repre-
senting an industrial invest-
ment of over $200,000,000
— the canned food industry
— maintains headquarters at
Washington with extensive
laboratories devoted exclus-
ively to the scientific aspects
of preserving foods through
sterilization ?

These laboratories of the
National Canners Associa-
tion are under the direction
of Dr.W. D. Bigelow, for-
merly with the Federal Bur-
eau of Chemistry, and a close
associate of Dr. Harvey W.
Wiley on the Board of Drug
and Food Inspection of the
United States Government.

Dr. Bigelow and his staff
of scientists, graduates of
many of the foremost scien-
tific institutions, carry out
the exhaustive research

work. Examination, analy-
sis and elaborate experimen-
tation, both with the product
and with the container, is
constantly going on. Mem-
bers of the staff are con-
tinually travelling, and giv-
ing canners everywhere
first-hand co-operation.
Data is exchanged with other
eminent laboratories (in-
cluding those maintained
by leading individual can-
ners), and findings are
spread broadcast to all can-
ners for the benefit of the-
industry and the public.

In both chemical and
bacteriological research the
National Canners Associ-
ation leaves no stone un-
turned in perfecting the
multitude of products now

National Canners Association, Washington, D. C.

A nation-wide organization formed in 1907, consisting of producers of all rarieties of
hermetically sealed canned foods which have been sterilized by heat. It neither pro-
duces, buys, nor sells. Its purpose is to assure, for the mutual benefit
the public, the_besi canned foods that scientific knowledge and hum

so successfully marketed in
cans. To visit these labo-
ratories is to have new
respect for the mighty in-
dustry now celebrating its
one hundredth birthday.

No other country in the
world equals the United
States in the production and
consumption of canned
foods. To guard closely,
therefore, the conditions,
surrounding their manu-
facture is a service which
the canners of America,
gladly render to the people
of this country.

QtieMirad^
on }6ur ]'■
^ CJable

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

461

UNCLE JOHNS SYRUP

■!rm^i:nd;i.mi:[*i

Now — with sugar hard to get, you'll
find this good syrup a pleasant substi-
tute for table and cooking purposes.
Write for booklet of Uncle John's Rec-
ipes telling how to make delicious cake,
puddings, candies, etc. It's free.

Try Uncle John's Syrup tomorrow morning —
on pancakes, hot biscuits, cereal, steamed bread
or grapefruit. It's great — any way you serve it!

Put up in 4 convenient sizes.
Ask your grocer for a can today.

NEW ENGLAND MAPLE SYRUP CO.

WINTER HILL, BOSTON, MASS.

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness.

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMOVESCO.

Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 |oz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 1 6oz. , $1.00

(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

The Sammy: "Over in Amurica we
gotta lilac bush fifty feet high." The
Tommy: "I wish I could lilac that."
— CasseWs Saturday Journal.

Teacher : " Don't you know that punc-
tuation means that you must pause?'

Willie: " Course I do. An auto driver,
punctuated his tire in front of our house!
Sunday^and he paused for half an^hour."
— Boston Transcript.

Employer: "For this job you've got
to know French and Spanish, and the pay
is eighteen dollars a week." "Lord, Mis-j.
ter, I ain't got no edication; I'm after a
job in the yards." "See the yard-boss. :
We'll start you in at forty." — Life.

The street-car conductor examined the!
transfer thoughtfully and said meekly,'
"This here transfer expired an hour ago,|
lady." The lady, digging into her purse!
after a coin, replied, "No wonder, with!
not a single ventilator open in the whole!
car!" — Exchange.

"Do you find poultry-keeping pays?"!
"Well, no; I can't say that it pays me, but!
I think that it pays my boy Jim."i
"How's that?" "Well, you see, I bought
him the fowls. I have to pay for their
keep and buy the eggs from him, and he
eats them." — ■ Illustrated Bits.

The teacher was giving the class a nat-|
ural-history lecture on Australia. "There:
is one animal," she said, "none of you
have mentioned. It does not stand up on
its legs all the time. It does not walk!
like other animals, but takes funny little;
skips. What is it?" And the class
yelled^with one voice, "Charlie Chaplin!"

— London Tit-Bits.

"Pa,"

said a young lady to her farmer
father, "I wish you wouldn't say *I seen.'
I don't know how many times I've cor-
rected you on that." "Now, Mamie,
you look-a-here," said the old man, "you
make yer livin' by good grammar and
eddication, but yer ma and me, we're
obliged to take in summer boarders, and,
by jiminy, they demand the dialect if
they pay the rates." — Detroit Free Press.

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
462

jBTgTffAPerAct

Paulco ?™_p Bluing

BEST for LAUNDRY USE

TbU p*cb».s« cxrataloa 20 «hor<>

and cadi *btc( properly blue* 3 gallont

of wale* for ctolhc*

>AULCtf

PRODUCT^

OIREC I l 0«s
Hold a atrip by clean rdge and movt II back
ajid ioit* m ihe \*at«r The bluir,* oukai,
<L..oK,. Do r.o, leave ati.p. In watel Tvc
ahecti are eufftctcM lol lub'ul oY water

M»»0I(SI ajio »£S1 »N ECONOMY AS >00

ust )uii iHt mem mourn.

THE PAUL SALES CO.

r-ODTUUlO ORtflfM. US*.

too

Strip

Bluing

A Muing of clear indigo coloring,
rolled dry onto paper. It dissolves
instantly and does not streak nor spot
the garments. It is made in strips,
each strip being measured to perfectly
blue 3 gallons of water.

It is clean and satisfactory — no
bottles to break, freeze or spill; no
sediment to stain and color the clothes.
Try it and all bleaching troubles will be
over.

Send us 16 cents in stamps with
your name and we will mail you, post-
paid, a full package of Paulco Strip
Bluing — 20 strips — with a helpful
domestic science treatise on washing
clothes— "Why Blue Clothes?"

PAUL SALES CO.

818 DEKUM BLDG.
PORTLAND, OREGON

8 Inches Square
5 Inches High

\J^ I teach you to make them better than
^ you ever made them before— the most

delicious Angel Food Cake and many other kind6,
the most appetizing cakes you ever tasted.
They Sell for $3.00— Profit, S2.00
1 will make you the most expert cake-maker in
your vicinity. Your cakes will be praised and
sought for. Your cakes will become famous, if
you make them by the

Osborn Cake Making System
My methods are original. They never
fail They are easy to learn: you are
sure to succeed the very first time. I
have taught thousands. I can teach you.
Let me sent you particulars fkee.

Dept. MRS. GRACE OSBORN
L-l Bay City Michigan

Delicious Salad Dressings with-
out the Fuss and Bother of Making

It's the dressing that makes the salad a
success. With a good salad dressing to
give tang and flavor you can make the most
appetizing salads from "leftovers" that would
otherwise be thrown away.

BEE BRAND

MAYONNAISE DRESSING

is delicious for all kinds of salads. Made
from the very finest oils, fresh eggs and other
ingredients of the highest quality. It's
really better than you can make at home —
and always the same in texture, body, and
flavor. You don't have to work over it, or
worry about how it's going to turn out.

Other BEE BRAND ready-to-serve dressings
are the Green Seal Salad Dressing for

cold meats, chicken, lobster and all salads, —
has a delightfully piquant, aromatic flavor.
And the Green Seal Mustard Dressing for
meat, fish, game, sandwiches, etc., is just the
kind of a dressing you need every day in the
week.

When you buy Bee Brand Salad Dressings

you are sure of the quality. They are pre-
pared under the most sanitary conditions and
absolutely guaranteed as to purity.

^ree Booklets containing many interesting facts con-
cerning spices, teas, and flavoring extracts sent on
request. Our Bee-Brand Manual of Cookery will be
mailed you on receipt of 50 cents in coin or stamps.

Mc CORMICK & CO., Baltimore, Md.
Manufacturers and Importers

(Proprietors of the famous
Banquet Tea)

Buy advertisedjGoods

— Do not accept substitutes' '
463

Good for Children

Milk, Nature's own best
food, is even more readily
digestible and more enjoy-
able to the taste by being
made into Junket.

That is why it is recognized
as one of the finest foods for
children — and grown-ups.

MADEiWMMILKi

serves the double purpose
of a wholesome food and a
dainty dessert.

Keep Junket Tablets on
hand, and treat your family
to Junket often, especially
the children. Sold by
grocers and druggists
everywhere.

THE JUNKET FOLKS

LITTLE FALLS, N. Y.

Canadian factory :

Chr. Hansen's Canadian Laboratory

Toronto, Ont.

Nesnah

The Powdered

Junket

is the same as Junket Tablets,
except it is in powdered form
and already sweetened and
flavored. It comes in 6 pure
flavors, delicious in taste and
appearance. Simply add milk.

The Cost of High Living

Mr. Royal Meeker, a United States
Commissioner of Labor Statistics, has
secured information from 13,000 families
having incomes varying from $900 to
$2,500, which shows that the American
standard of living does not rest upon a
scientific foundation.

Mr. Meeker suggests that the value of
food offered for sale should be designated
in calories and not in pounds. Were this
done it ought to appear that food which
costs the most is not infrequently the
most economical because of its high
calory value. Mr. Meeker estimates
that at the present prices, the average
cost of food per diem and per man is
50 to 60 cents, at which rate the food cost
for a family of five, husband and wife and
three children, would be not less than
$610 per annum.

The average cost for clothing is about
$90 per man per annum; the cost for
rent is $105 to $355; expenditure for
sickness $23 to $120. These figures
appear to be rather low considering the
present high cost of living, and the lack
of information possessed by the average
housewife respecting the economic value
of foods, and yet there can be no doubt
that the cost of foodstuffs might be very
considerably reduced by intelligent ap-
plication of up-to-date knowledge respect-
ing food values. The housewife needs
education in the art of selecting and
saving food, and there never was a more
opportune time for an organized effort
to place the needed knowledge in the
hands of every mother of a family in the
United States. There can be no doubt
but the application of up-to-date knowl-
edge of food values in each one of the
20,000,000 homes of the United States
would result in saving annually several
billion dollars which are now wasted.

Cook: "What I say is, all women
should have a vote." Mistress: "You
forget, cook, that you'd have to stay in
the same place for more than a week to
qualify for it." — London Opinion.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

464

ADVERTISEMENTS

Good Cooks always
keep it handy

In these days of high living
costs, Del Monte Tomato
Sauce is helping many economi"
cal housewives to reduce food
expense without sacrifice of food
value or flavor.

There are so many ways to use

it. It makes so many other foods

taste better— puts new flavor into

cheaper cuts of meat —

turns "left'overs" into

really tempting dishes.

Women who know its

many uses buy it by the

dosen cans so as never to

be without it. Sold by all

good grocers in cans of

convenient and econom'

ical size.

Send for a free copy oVDel
Monte Tomato Sauce Recipes'*

(Publication No. 689), a book
of over 100 simple recipes, that
shows how easy it is to serve all
kinds of really delicious foods
at economical cost, with the
aid of Del Monte Tomato
Sauce.

Address, Department R

CALIFORNIA PACKING CORPORATION

San Francisco, California

JQ i;

Mlonte

TOMATO
SAUCE

tomato
sauce

Made from red'ripe to*
matoes, fresh peppers and
pure seasoning ingredi'
ents. Unexcelled with
meats, poultry, fish, fried
oysters, fritters, omelets,
macaroni, rice, beans,
soups, salad dressings,
coc\tail sauces, etc.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

465

AMERICAN COOKERY

Try This
Syrup Sir!"

"It is made with Mapleine"

Leading chefs recognize the
remarkable flavoring ~

MAPLEINE

>^f<? Gofden7favor

Whether made in gallon quantities by the
hotel or cafe chef, or in your home, its delec-
table taste and economy may be relied upon.

A half 'teaspoon Mapleine added,
to two cups of sugar dissolved in
one cup of boiling water makes
a pint of delicious syrup in-
stantly.

Mapleine contains no maple
sugar, syrup nor sap, but pro-
duces a taste similar to maple.

Grocers sell Mapleine

2 oz. bottle 35c.
Canada 50c.

4-cent stamp and trade-mark from
Mapleine carton will bring the
Mapleine Cook Book of 2U0 re-
cipes, including many desserts.

Crescent Mfg. Company

323 Occidental Ave., Seattle, Wash.

SEVEN-CENT MEALS ^\^™t

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

The Orange

The orange is one of nature's finest
gifts to man. Orange juice contains pre-
digested food in a most delicious and
attractive form, ready for immediate
absorption and utilization.

The amount of food contained in a
single large orange is about equivalent
to that found in a half slice of bread, but
it differs from bread in that it needs nc:
digestion, while bread, before it can be
used in energizing and strengthening the|
body, must undergo digestion for several
hours. It is for this reason that oranges
are so refreshing to an exhausted 01
feeble person. The sweeter the orange,
the greater its food value.

But the energy value of the orange.!
which for an ordinary-sized orange
amounts to from 75 to 100- calories, is by
no means its only value. Orange juice
is rich in salts, especially in lime anc
alkaline salts, which counteract the
tendency to acidosis, that is always:
threatening sedentary people, hearty meai
eaters, and those advanced in age. The
free use of orange juice is a valuable
means of combating the inroads o.
"Father Time," and is also an excellen'
means of antidoting, to some extent, th(
bad effects of an indoor or sedentary life

One or two oranges taken at bedtim<
and on rising in the morning are excellen
means of stimulating bowel action
Oranges may be taken between meal
with great benefit by feeble persons anc
ihose suffering from constipation. Th<
delightful flavor and general stimulatinj
influence of orange juice excites peristalti<
activity, and so tends to prevent th«
accumulation of food residues in th<
colon which leads to putrefaction anc
autointoxication. — Good Health.

Trade Mark Begletered.

:vz

Gluten Floui/QC

^ 40% GLUTEN *<~^^>

Guaranteed to comply in all respecta Co

ataadard requirements of U. S. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FARWELL & WHINES

Watertown. N. Y.

^»X

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

466

ADVERTISEMENTS

CLOTHESPINS

There is an ideal back of every EMCO Clothespin —
the ideal that inspires the good craftsman.

EMCO pins are perfectly made, packed in neat, tight
cartons, guaranteed as to count. They are smooth and
strong. They represent the highest development of this
indispensable old staple.

EMCO Clothespins come in packages containing five
dozen and two dozen.

Ask your dealer for EMCO Clothespins.

ESCANABA MANUFACTURING CO.

MANUFACTURERS

ESCANABA, MICHIGAN

<%>

a«!5U3

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

467

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

IT SERVES YOUR HOME AND
SAVES YOUR TIME THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
'Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles — Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grada piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for General Utility,
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW
for a Descriptive Pamphlet
and Dealers name.

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

504) Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III.

ROBERTS v

VliM Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Recipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. iss Oliver st., boston, mass.

SALAD SECRETS

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail 100 Meat-
less .recipes 15c. _ 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N. Y.

Delicious Whipped Cream

can be easily made from ordinary Table
Cream by adding a few drops of

Farrand's Cream Whip

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer
does not carry it.

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science.

THE CREAM WHIP CO.

Cleveland, Ohio

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Coltmrn's

_j @ Red Label

Spices

The A.Colburn Co.,
Philadelphia.USA

A man from the north of Scotland,
visiting Glasgow, was "boned" by a
Salvation Army lass, and he gave her a
sixpence. Turning into another street,
he was again asked for a contribution.
"Na, na," he said, "I gied a saxpence
tae ane o' your folk 'roon the corner
just noo." "That was very good of
you," said the girl. "But then you
can't do a good thing too often. And
besides, you know the Lord will repay
you a hundred fold." "Aweel," said
the cautious Scot, "I'll just wait till
the first transaction's feenished before
we start the second."

— Boston Transcript.

In the soft firelight even the boarding-
house sitting room looked cosey and
attractive. The warmth and comfort
thawed the heart of the "star" boarder.
He turned to the landlady and mur-
mured, "Will you be my wife?" "Let
me see," replied the landlady, "you have
been here four years. You have never
once grumbled at the food or failed to
pay my bill promptly and without
question. No, sir, I'm sorry. You're
too good a boarder to be put on the free
list!" — New Commonwealth.

Macaroni Morsels with Cheese

To two quarts of actively boiling
water add one tablespoonful of salt and
one cup of Great Bear Spring Macaroni
Morsels, boil until tender (15 to 20 min-
utes), put into a colander, rinse with
cold water and drain.

Place a layer of the boiled Morsels in
a buttered baking dish, sprinkle with
grated cheese, repeat, pour over white
sauce, cover with buttered crumbs and
bake until crumbs are brown.

"// you cannot get Great Bear Spring
Macaroni Morsels of your grocer, send us
his name and address and eight two-cent
stamps for a full half-pound, 15c package
by parcel post, prepaid.

Sawyer Crystal Blue Co.,
Dept. M, 88 Broad St.,
Adv. Boston, Mass.1'

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes

468

1 ,

ADVERTISEMENTS

vse Reports

are food for Thought

Why Not Get The Food You Buy?

You will be amazed at the story of food waste revealed by the report of the
Tri-State Laboratories on containers.

Your grocer and butcher will cheerfully use the proper container for \our
bulk foods if you ask them to. If you don't care, neither do they. It's your
food that goes to waste, not theirs.

On your request we will send you these reports free. Then you can see for
yourself why you should demand that your retailer use a

Wood Dish

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY

WESTERN OFFICE

37 S. WABASH AVE.

CHICAGO, ILL.

EASTERN OFFICE

HOW. 40th ST.
NEW YORK CITY

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

469

AMHK1UAJN LUUKtKY

"THE BEST EVER

reat Bear Spring

BRAND

MACARONI

MORSELS"

MADE FROM

Highest Grade Durum Semolina
Flour

RICH IN GLUTEN

WITH

[/^Great Bear" Pure Spring Water

By improved process
In a clean, American Factory

Appetizing — Delicious
Nutritious — Healthful

The Ideal Substitute for Meat

MASSARO MACARONI CO., Inc.

Fulton, N. Y.

Sawyer Crystal Blue Co., N. E. Agts.

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
I (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of brmad made with

FLEISCHM ANN'S YEAST

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand for expert assistance in private
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range
from #60 to $100 a month, or more, with
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and
an average of eight hours a day "on duty."
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are
given the same dignified social recognitionjas
trained graduate nurses.

Here is an excellent opportunity — our new
home-study course for professional housekeepers
will teach you to become an expert in the selection
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and
food values, in marketing and household ac-
counts, in the management of the cleaning,
laundry work, mending, child care and training,
— in all the manifold activities of the home.
When you graduate we place you in a satis-
factory position without charge. Some posi-
tions are non-resident, others part-time. The
training in the Institution Management Course is
much the same.

The training is based on our Household Engi-
neering course, with much of our Home Economics
and Lessons in Cooking courses required.
Usually the work can be completed and diploma
awarded in six months, though three years is
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting
and just what every housekeeper ought to have
for her own home.

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

This is only one of several professional and
homemaker's courses included in our special offer.
Full details on request.

COUPON

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

Please give information about your Correspondence
Course marked X

....Graduate Housekeepers' Course.
....Institution Management Course.
....Lunch Room Management Course.
....Teaching of Domestic Science Course.
....Home Demonstrators' Course.
....Practical Nurse's Course.
....Dietitian's Course.
....Homemaker's Courses.

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information _

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose )

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

470

ADVERTISEMENTS

KRUMBLED BRAN

SSSSS

TO KEEP REGULAR -EAT

battle

CREEK

TJERE is a bran that is new— dif-
■*--*■ ferent! Don't think of it as you
may have thought of ordinary bran —
flat, tasteless, unpleasant to look at.
We've created a new cereal food that
doesn't look like bran, nor taste like
bran, but is all bran. It is brought to
you in our "waxtite" package, so you
have it fresh, clean and appetizing for
your breakfast — just when it does you
the most good

Buy a package of Kellogg's Krumbled
Bran from your grocer. It is made in
the same modern kitchens as Kellogg's
Toasted Corn Flakes, Kellogg's Krum-
bles, Kellogg's Drinket, etc.

Demand Kellogg's Krumbled Bran —
each package bears this signature —

KELLOGG TOASTED CORN FLAKE CO.

Battle Creek, Michigan, and Toronto, Canada

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

471

AMERICAN COOKERY

Make your single sockets double workers! To
get two uses at once from an electric light socket
is often a necessity— always a convenience. The

REN 7AM IN

wo-WA^r

PLUG

fits any single socket. Turns it into two instantly.
With it, you can use any appliance by day without
the inconvenience of removing the light — and by
night with the added advantage of light. Millions
now in use. Descriptive folder free on request.

Every Wired Home Needs Three or More

At your dealer's

BENJAMIN

NO. 92

PLEACH

Made only by

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago New York

San Francisco

Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Holder makes it easy to vise any shade with your Benjamin Two-Way
Plug. Price 15 cents.

Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug screws into any electric socket without twisting the cord.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

472

ADVERTISEMENTS

No Soakinif
Always Ready

to Cook ■-*<'-

k,4 till

rfri*4 •-

•uiMI »•«

MIHliTE TAHOCA CO.
OJUHCfc **»

APPLE TAPIOCA

Pare and quarter six tart apples. Place in dish and cover
with cup sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful salt, one teaspoon-
ful of cinnamon or nutmeg, and butter. Cook fifteen min-
utes one-half cup Minute Tapioca, pinch salt and quart hot
water in double boiler. Pour over apples and bake until
they are soft. Serve with cream and sugar.

>erve

It Oft

The tart taste of apple, the sunny warmth of spice, combined
with the delicate flavor of Minute Tapioca, make Apple Tapioca a
prime favorite. It is easy to make, attractive to serve, and good
for the whole family.

You should serve Minute Tapioca at least once a week. There
will be no sameness to your desserts, for it may be used in a
variety of ways. Dishes made from the receipts on every package
as well as the new receipts in our cook book are always sure of a
welcome at any table.

Minute Tapioca is easily digested. It is a great energy-build^
ing food. It requires no soaking. It maybe thoroughly cooked
in fifteen minutes.

Minute Tapioca is always sold in the red and blue box with
the Minute Man.

The Minute Cook Book mailed upon request.

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY, 101 Washington St., Orange, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

473

AMERICAN COOKERY

Made in both
cafe and powder form.

tor crystal-clear windows "Ham,t xr<dch^ «*"*

THE panes are actually invisible after I have gone over
them with Bon Ami — not a speck of dirt or a cloudy
streak remains.

It's so easy, too! Just a thin, watery lather of Bon Ami
spread over the glass and then wiped away when it's dry!
Tissue paper is good for wiping off the dry Bon Ami —
saves soiling a cloth.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

474

AJJY ^KllbrLAl^INlb

HEBE

— the food product of a
thousand uses. It enriches your
food and cuts the cost of cooking

e/ Use Hebe

for

Creamed Chicken

Oyster and Clam Stews

Frizzled Beef

Creamed Fish

DishesalaNewburg

Creamed Sweetbreads

and a hundred

others.

Consult your Cook-Book.

Serve Hebe with

coffee and tea

and use it to make

cocoa

Cream your Meats and Sea-
Foods with Hebe

Add to their richness. Make them more nutritious. Bring out their finest flavor.
Meats or fish creamed with HEBE are increased in food value at trifling cost.

HEBE is the modern food discovery — the product for a thousand uses. Domestic
Science experts, cooking school teachers, housewives — in fact, everyone interested
in good things for the table — will find it splendid not only for creaming meats and
vegetables, and for cream soups, but for making bread, biscuits, doughnuts, pud-
dings and desserts, omelets and griddle-cakes.

HEBE is economical. It will reduce cooking costs, and at
the same time help to vary and enrich the menu.

The goodness of HEBE is in its perfect balance of ingre-
dients— simply pure skimmed milk evaporated to double
strength enriched with cocoanut fat. In the hermetically
sealed can it retains the purity and wholesomeness guarded
so carefully in the process of manufacture.

Order HEBE from the grocer today. Learn at once its con-
venience, goodness and economy. Be sure to write for a copy
of the HEBE Book of Recipes — mailed free. Address the
Home Economy Department, 2115 Consumers Bldg., Chicago.

^MPOUHoJfj

CMTA«S 7.8* VE&CTA81E ffi

2S.S-, TOTAL SOLiOS
THE HEBE COMPAW*

**CE5: CHICAGO-SEATTl£-lt$A

CHICAGO

THE HEBE COMPANY Seattle

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes

475

AMERICAN COOKERY

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

CONDITIONS . Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
— — — — — — to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
Stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

This shows the jelly turned from the mould

This shows mould
(upside down)

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75 cents.

"PATTY IRONS

♦»

AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME
AND EGGS

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best quality blued steel. ■„ 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1)
new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for two
pans.

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

TBE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.

Boston, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

476

ADVERTISEMENTS

PREMIUMS

PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES

(Bag not shown in cut)

- A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made
especially for Bakers and Caterers. Eminently suit-
able for home use.

The set sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE A. M. C.
ORNAMENTER

two (2) new subscriptions.
Cash price, $1.50

"RAPIDE"
TEA INFUSER

Economic, clean and con-
venient. Sent, prepaid, for
one (1) subscription. Cash
price, 75 cents.

CAKE ORNAMENTING SYRINGE

For the finest cake decorating. Twelve German
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AMERICAN COOKERY

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AMERICAN COOKERY

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4*1

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV

FEBRUARY, 1920

No. 7

CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY

PAGE

ONE WEEK IN WINTER. Ill Beulah Rector 491

THE MAGICIAN'S DAUGHTER . . . Elsie Spencer Eells 497

THE HOUSEKEEPER IN TOKYO .... Emily Kennedy 501

MARKETING IN THE PHILIPPINES . . Kathleen Tyndall 504

FOOD HYGIENE F. M. Christianson 507

THE JOYOUS TURNOVER Grace P. T. Knudson 509

EDITORIALS 510

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone
engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers 513

MENUS FOR WEEK IN FEBRUARY 522

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS 523

MENU-MAKING AND TABLE SERVICE . . Ethel V. Antes 524

SOUP-MAKING IN FRENCH KITCHENS . . . Kurt Heppe 525

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Candlemas Day- A George
Washington Party — ■ Cooking with Sour Cream — ■ Household

Lubrication — Chicken Fat for Pie Crust . .... 528

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 532

THE SILVER LINING 538

MISCELLANEOUS 542

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second clais matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

482

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483

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR FEBRUARY

PAGE

Editorials ............ 510

Food Hygiene

•

507

Home Ideas and Economies

528

Housekeeper in Tokyo, The

501

Joyous Turnover, The

509

Magician's Daughter, The .

497

Marketing in the Philippines

504

Menu-Making and Table Service

524

Menus .....

. 522 523

Miscellaneous .....

542

One Week in Winter

491

Silver Lining, The ....

. .

. «

538

Soup-Making in French Kitchens

► . .

525

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Cake, Chocolate Fudge. 111.
Cake, Coffee. 111.
Chicken, Breast of, with Mushrooms.
Chicken, Creamed in Bread Baskets
Cookies cut with Fancy Cutters. Ill
Cream, Chocolate Macaroon Bavarian
Cup, Pineapple-and-Marshmallow.
Custard, Boiled, with Snow Eggs.
Custard, Steamed Coffee
Fish, Baked in Rolls. 111.
Fish, Baked, with Stuffing
Gingerbread, Cream
Gingerbread, Sour Milk

520 Lamb, Crown Roast of.
516 Macaroons, Chocolate

111. 516 Oysters Terrapin .

516 Pie, Chicken-and-Oyster

519 Pie, Potato-and-Liver

111. 518 Potatoes Anna. 111.

111. . 520 Potatoes, Baked, Paprik

111. . 519 Snow Eggs .

521 Souffle, Orange
515 Soup, Bean-and-Tomato
515 Soup, Ham .
521 Sweetbreads, Orange
521 Tapioca, Orange .

III.

Ill

111

513
517
516
514
514
514
517
519
521
513
513
521
521

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Cakes, Cheese ..... 532
Soda, Baking, in Cooking Vegetables and
Fruits ...... 534

Ducks, Yorkshire
Timbales, How to Cook
Wafers, Rolled Almond

536
536
536

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

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AMERICAN COOKERY

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ADVERTISEMENTS

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AMERICAN COOKERY

For

easing

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488

Nature's Magic Wand

A mystic wand unlocks the Nimbus cloud,
And myriad fairy petals nutter down,
Enveloping the earth in snowy shroud,
As valley, plain and mountain side they drown!
The silent, grayish heavens sternly frown,
As high and higher pile the feathered drifts
Until the white-capped dwellings of the town
Resemble ghostly islets through the rifts
Of fleecy, sun-kissed clouds Apollo lifts!

Caroline L. Sumner.

American Cookery

VOL. XXIV

FEBRUARY

No. 7

One Week in Winter

By Beulah Rector

Photographs by Mr. R. E. Schouler

TRAVELING bag, suitcase, shawl-
strap bulging with sweaters,
snowshoes, grouped themselves
about me on the floor. I regarded them
— one minute — and called a taxicab.

When Henry Thoreau found that the
mat which a neighbor had given him
would demand sweeping he settled all
by pitching the bit of carpet out of his
cabin window. How Thoreau would
have scorned my encumbering posses-
sions!

If the Walrus and the Carpenter in
their historic walk along the sandy
beach could not do with more than four,
to give a hand to each, then what could I
expect who was half as well equipped?
But more than having a limited carrying
capacity, I had promised Cornelia to be
at the boat on time. There were forty-
five minutes befoi^ sailing. I dare no*
conduct myself thither. Only yester-
day Cornelia reminded me of the lust
time I had made the trip, when I had put
myself aboard a Sixth Avenue Elevated
instead of a Ninth Avenue Elevated,
arriving in time — in time to see that
most hopeless of sights, — a steamer
slowly, determinedly puffing her way out
the harbor, with no gang-plank long
enough, and no deckhand skillful enough
to bridge the distance from smelly pier
to the side once so ready to receive you.

It is that picture which will always
send me to the telephone for a taxi.

The driver thought we could just about
make Pier 39. Though the traffic, he
added, was heavy at that hour of day.

The nearer the less polite sections of

town we drew, the more evident the
thaw: slush, dirty snow, cracked ice, the
muddy cakings of early winter deposits.
I thought I had paid for a seat in that
taxi, but I wasn't in it much of the time
I had an uncomfortable feeling that T!;is
travel onward through the slush a, well as
upward over the ice mounds was sending
up the taxi meter. How can any but the
very rich enjoy a ride in a taxi when at
calculating intervals comes a grim click,
and you see recorded before your eyes
the rate at which your fortune is being
diminished? How came it that taxi
owners did not face their registers in the
opposite direction, as the hotel waiter
has learned to do with his bill?

I decided to jump out.

But the gutters were brimming. There
was nowhere to step. As we slid down
Madison Avenue I had settled back,
thinking I would ask him to drive me
straight on to Providence. But I
changed my mind.

As I descended from the expensive
chariot, a little girl cast one glance at
the snowshoes and giggled ostentatiously
behind her hand, " She thinks it's going to
snow."

And then five minutes before the call
rang out, "All ashore that's going
ashore," I saw the ends of a pair of skis
coming around the corner. Behind them
panted Cornelia.

Possibly she had met the same little
girl as I. "Say," she blurted out, "I
feel downright silly carrying skis on a
day like this." She passed a handker-
chief over her face and straightened her

491

492

AMERICAN COOKERY

hat. "But anyhow," she argued, "if
it hadn't been for them I'd never have
gotten here on time. They were going
to start the subway train, but the guard
saw the skis coming and he had to wait
till I caught up with them before he could
close the door. And he had to give me
time to get out or he'd catch my tails as
I was leaving."

"Well, we're on the way," I clutched
Cornelia's arm in joy. "On the way to
Tramworth. What do you suppose the
dear old place is like in winter?"

"Yes, we're so far on our way. It's
a long way to go, of course, but we're
going on the boat as the government has
urged."

And boat travel wasn't so bad. True,
the victrola just outside our door was
demanding most of the night. "Where do
we go from here, boys, where do we go
from here?" And forty little sailor boys
en route for radio school, in forty little
blue flannel suits, with forty little blue

WOODLANDS WITH WHITE CRUST GLISTENING
IN THE MOONLIGHT

THINLY COVERED FIELDS WHERE
WEEDS POKED THROUGH

gingham bags of well-sifted possessions,
were answering the victrola with forty
young voices.

Then once during the night the boat)
started to turn over on her back. This
alarmed the skis and they tried to get
into bed with us.

In Boston there was only a thin cover-
ing of snow, a patched and soiled
blanket. We needed the assurance of
Mrs. Hasbrook's letter. "Four feet of
snow on the level and that was but three
days ago," I encouraged. "It can't all!
be gone by now."

Our train began to climb, — from
fields where even the shortest weeds
poked through, to stretches where only
stumps showed above, to dusky wood-
lands where, when we had breathed on
the frosty pane, we could discern thick
spruces and white crust glistening in the
moonlight. Even with the glass between
us we caught something of the winter]
wonder.

"Oh," I breathed to Cornelia, "we're
going to have a wonderful time."

ONE WEEK IN WINTER

493

We were to know Tramworth as her
home folks.. WThat kind of acquaintance
was this that suddenly broke off with the
freezing of the lakes in November till
the going out of the ice in April? True,
we knew the June, July, August, Septem-
ber Tramworth. But we wanted more
than a green and gold and purple mem-
ory of her. More than the still green-
ness of her June when grasses are high,
foliage heavy, brooks full, more than the
drowsy July, song of insect, hot smell of
blackberry blossoms, haze in the valley,
cobwebs on the grass in the mornings.
We had responded to the heady, electric
autumn of her; thistles on the hills,
thistledown far out on the ponds, pump-
kins in the fields, maples reddening by the
: swamps, apples fragrant in the orchards,
blue jays screaming at their chestnut
plunder.

The train was slowing up. We were
about to step into this fifteen-degrees-
below-zero-world. Something for the
wildest imagination to conjure up we
had thought it. Why, it wasn't so
different. Boston's damp, icy blast off
the Bay was chillier. This was merely
clear and light and very straightfor-
wardly cold.

We discovered Robert Hasbrook wait-
ing for us. A knitted toboggan cap was
drawn well over his ears, he was heavily
mittened. His kerosene can wore a
frozen potato on its nose.

No bareheaded village boys are playing
baseball in the road to-night. No coat-
less postmaster tosses the mail bag
aboard the outgoing train.

The snow crunches dryly under our
feet. The nobility of a winter night
in the country! The curving upward
road, the hills with their dark tracings of
woods. The elm a great bouquet, her
long branches swaying slowly. The high,
piercing stars, the polished crust.

Ruts made by sleds and sleighs are
waxen smooth. A roller has pounded
the snow in the road.

"Why, Robert," we exclaim, "it isn't
so deep!"

He laughs. "If you should step out
there." he points to the side of the road,
"you would sink to your waist."

"Why, I guess we would." The mail
boxes that once reached the rural delivery
man's hand when he drove up in his
buggy are now like timid bird houses
peeking out on a level with the drifts.

Is it to be wondered that the lack of

*-*m£m

• J

\. -

WHAT KIND OF ACQUAINTANCE WAS THIS THAT WAS BROKEN OFF WITH THE FREEZING OF
NOVEMBER TO THE GOING OUT OF THE ICE IN APRIL?

494

AMERICAN COOKERY

winter drives the country boy back from
the city's dirty snow? "It was not the
summer heat that drove the country
boy from New York," says Walter
Pritchard Eaton, "it was the snowless
winter. Winter without the dramatic
entrance of the storm, winter without the
happy ending of silver brooks alive in
every road."

The summer houses are boarded tight.
Shutters say plainly no one is at home.

And then comes the red house. I
like them so. White in summer when
the maples stand a shady green at the
front, but red and warm in winter when
the ground is white and the winds cold.
We hail the roof, as has many another
wayfarer, for

"The only reason a road is good, as every
wanderer knows,

Is just because of the homes, the homes,
the homes to which it goes."

A warmth of lamplight streams from
the sitting room window. Mrs. Has-
brook stands in the doorway with a
welcome as round and jolly as herself,
and an honest glow to her greeting like
that in the light she carries. There is

THE CURVING, UPWARD ROAD; THE HILLS
WITH THEIR DARK TRACINGS OF WOODS

the fragrance of steaming supper. Fluffy
biscuits, maple syrup from the pasture
trees, home-made sausage, and mince
pie made from the heart of the little pig
which grew up on the farm last summer.
Who could refuse even a little pig's
heart, — beneath a crust, to be sure, —
but when you reach it, oh very tender!

In the night the thermometer drops.
We know its summer capabilities, and
now we are to learn what it can do below
the zero mark in Tramworth.

We open the window and dash under
the covers. In the morning we draw lots
to see who will close it, then scamper to
the sitting room and dress near the fire.

Through the frosted panes we can see
enough of the outside world to be very
confident we should like to see much
more. Getting ready to go out is an
arduous process. Three pairs of woolen
socks, two sweaters, the lacing of mocas-
sins, the tying of snowshoes. Rover, the
big Newfoundland, wants to go with us.
He wags his tail and crowds close against
us as we open the door, determined to be
included in this expedition. Has he not
always followed in summer? Has he not
kept watch while we climbed brush piles
after raspberries, and showed us many a
woodchuck hole? Has he not sat pant-
ing for hours under a chokecherry bush
waiting for me to fill up that last quart
of wild strawberries which was too much
for the patience of the other berry pickers ?
"Why, of course, Rover, come on."

The swamp where the wild azaleas
grow in June, the stone walls, the brook
are no hindrances to us now. Water will
not wet this weather and fences cannot
make us climb. We have only to step
across them. (Short cuts are possible
in every direction). Next summer when
you prevent us from various short cuts
we shall remember how slight obstacles
you are — take you in the right season.
It reminds you of those little towns along
the Saguenay River which can be easily
reached across the ice in winter, but when
the summer comes and the tides in the
fiords are treacherous, one must climb

ONE WEEK IN WINTER

495

high mountains at the back in order to
make the journey from one to the other.

The snow blows dryly from stone walls.
Here under the apple trees it has been
trampled by deer. The back road
through the woods is a registry of other
four-footed travelers. A fox has passed.
A rabbit has scurried. To that side are
the leaping tracks of a great Northern
hare. Here a tiny field mouse has taken
his way drawing the thin thread of his
tail in the snow behind him.

Was the back road ever lovelier? The
evergreens are like Christmas trees laden
with huge white packages. Birches stand
with their heads bent to the ground as if
the call had come to prayer.

The late afternoon train goes crashing
through the valley. The sound is held
in between the hills. The train is now the
most important connection between vil-
lage and outside world. It brings news
of the station agent's son who is studying
this winter at business college. Mrs.
Peterson learns (through the needlework
magazine that the train brings to her) the
latest in crochet edges. Around the fire
in the village store will be discussed the
possibilities of a drop in prices, based on
the late investigation.

The scarf of the engine's smoke floats
on the wind behind her until it is caught
on a tree and torn away.

Already in the sky there is sunset
coloring. We are miles from the red
house. Soon Mrs. Hasbrook will be
putting the dishes on the table and
looking over the swing shelf in the cellar
for the jar of fruit that will most please
her guests. And then the sky grows
brighter. See the crust now! Talk of
winter jewels! Diamonds in the sun-
light, opals in the sunset.

We wave to Grandpa Willard as we
start past the house. But that is not
enough. We must come in. The old
gentleman closes the door tight behind us
t© keep out every hint of the cold from
which, however, we have emerged warm
and ruddy.

'Tain't July yet," he shakes his

7rt^*~

. . y

THE ONLY REASON A ROAD IS GOOD, AS EVERY

WANDERER KNOWS,
IS JUST BECAUSE OF THE HOMES, THE HOMES,
L- %JTHE HOMES TO WHICH IT GOES."

head. "Now what I can't make out is
why you city people should leave your
furnaces and your running water to
come up here in this season. Tram-
worth's purty well in summer, but it's
wicked cold in winter."

There is a boom from the pond. It is
the lusty shout of ice.

Rover wags behind. The first are now
last and the last first.

In the lamplight after supper Mrs.
Hasbrook braids rugs, some one reads
aloud, the rest of us fold Red Cross
bandages.

On the top of the high cupboard sits the
white Angora, her eyes tightly shut, her
tail wrapped gracefully around her toes,
always properly together.

Robert Hasbrook has a sudden fancy
for some ice-cream. From his mother's
pans of milk he dips off the choicest
cream. He adds sugar to the richness.
Even the fastidious Angelina looks down,
her pink nose showing a mild, patrician

496

AMERICAN COOKERY

SHORT CUTS ARE POSSIBLE

interest in this performance. Out in the
snowbank goes the yellow bowl and up
from the fruit cellar comes a jar of wild
strawberry preserves. . . . Frozen yel-
low cream and wild strawberries
poured over the top. Oh, my! I can-
not go on !

From the sill outside another pair of
eyes than Angelina's gleams.

"Which one of the seven is that?"
Cornelia startles.

"That's Muzzer."

"Muzzer!" we exclaim in a single
breath. "The Muzzer you loaned us
last summer ? The Muzzer who spent the
first day in the attic, and the second
trying to escape by way of the chimney,
and the third, — when the boys were
chasing each other round the sitting room,
— spread flat on her stomach and shot
out the door?"

"Yes, that's the one. She never came
back till the snow was three feet deep, and
she's so wild we can do nothing with her."

Her coat is rough. There is a bar-
baric gleam in her eye.

A day gone, a night gone. Still, the
thermometer falls. Robert announces
the temperature as we come in to break-
fast. "The cows are all huddled to-
gether, but the little pig's ears aren't
frozen yet."

At the opening of the kitchen door,
Rover and the cats peek wistfully into
the snug dining-room. But only the
Angora of royal birth is permitted to
enter. Fine, easy manners Angelina un-
doubtedly has, but here is gentility lack-
ing vigorous vitality. On the other side
of the door is the sturdier race.

We are just becoming proficient enough
with the skis so that when one slides the
length of the orchard she can manage to
go down on the other without sinking to
her knees in snow. What thrilling trips
over the walls to the wood's edge! Why,
if we stayed longer, we might even learn
to jump!

But we remember that the " biggest fish
was the one we never caught," and the
"sweetest kiss the one that was never
given." This leaving before we are al-

WE ARE GLAD TO SEE THE SMOKE FROM THE
HASBROOKS' CHIMNEY

THE MAGICIAN'S DAUGHTER

497

together ready is a little like getting up
from the table "while it still tastes good."
Yet last mornings have ever come too
soon in Tramworth, — ■ be it summer or
winter. You are prone to long thoughts.
Over your oatmeal you look away across
the snowy fields. "In New York," you
tell yourself, "there will be no such sight
as this." And months must pass before
you see these mountains whence so much
of our health has come. But, really, you
are not attending to your breakfast. . . .
Last" things must go into the bags. "Are
the snowshoes tied?': "Where is the
sweater yet to go into the shawlstrap?"

There is not time for sad indulgences.
"We don't want to hurry you, but the
cutter — ■ — — "

There are hasty " good-bys" and* ' thank
you's," and hand wavings until the
cutter's runners dip in their smooth track
below a hill that blots those wholesome
faces from view.

Regretful to leave, — yes, always; but
a little rosier in complexion and memory,
a little stouter in body and purpose, we
will go back to the city to work for more
cake to be eaten another season in the
country.

The Magician's Daughter

By Elsie Spicer Eells

'M, John Ashmore's not the man
I'd picked out for a son-in-law.
You know that, Hope. He's a
nice enough boy, though. You might
do worse. He's the best manager I've
had on my farm in years. I'll say that
for him."

William Henderson, owner of Crystal
Spring Farm, but better known as the
head of the Chebago paper mill, bit his
cigar savagely. His daughter, Hope, at
the steering wheel of the big gray car,
held her head high and did not glance in
his direction.

Her father smiled a bit grimly as he
glanced at her attractive profile. "I
know you're the girl who'll select her
husband herself. You look like your
great-grandmother who prayed: 'Lord,
help me to be always right. Thou
knowest how hard it is to change my
mind.' I'll not try to meddle in this.
Jehoshaphat! Why shouldn't I give
him my blessing if he doubles the farm
profits next year? I'd give you my farm
as a wedding present if you can get him
to do that to soften my heart. . . .
You know Fred Remington doubled the
paper mill profits last year." His eyes

twinkled slyly as he added this remark.
It was easy to see who was William
Henderson's choice as a son-in-law.

"Don't worry about your daughter
throwing herself away," said Hope as
she quickened the speed of the big gray
car. "John wouldn't have been on
your farm a single day if his war ex-
perience had not made outdoor life a
necessity."

An hour later Hope reported her
father's offer of a wedding present under
the budding snow apple tree at the end
of the farm lane.

"It isn't, John, that father is so mer-
cenary as he sounds. The thing that
really lies back of that remark of his is
his love for this farm. It's his old home,
you know. He's tried so hard to make
it over into a model farm. He never
worked so hard at anything else in the
world. His efforts have never been
crowned with any success, either. Some
years he's actually run behind, I happen
to know."

John Ashmore brushed a bit of mud
from his brown corduroys. "Farm
profits are hardly in proportion to the
money and labor invested even yet.

498

AMERICAN COOKERY

Things are improving, though,

"A big success this year would mean so
much to father, John. Do you suppose
we can — "

Hope's "we" brought a look of rev-
erent adoration to John's fine gray eyes.

"Father knows as well as I do that I'll
pick out my own husband. But I do
so want him to approve of you. You
know I'm all he has now since mother
died. We've been such pals, dad and
I—"

The brown corduroy arm tightened
about the shoulders of the pale green
sweater.

"I wish I could help you win out,
John. I've been taking some Spanish
lessons this winter to make me forget
my German. In the old Spanish folk-
tale of 'The Magician's Daughter' the
stern old magician commands the prince
to plow up the mountain, sow it, reap the
wheat, all in a single night, and make a
little cake out of the flour for him to eat
with his breakfast chocolate. The ma-
gician's daughter does all the work for
her lover and the little cake is ready for
her father in the morning. Wish I were
like her!"

John Ashmore's face bore the look of a
man whose vocabulary knew no such
word as "fail." "We'll do our best at
doubling the farm profits," he said as he
squared his broad shoulders.

That spring every foot of the farm was
prepared to produce its utmost. Even
the old untilled swamp was made over
into a mint bed. John worked early and
late, for help was scarce. The Farm
Bureau official pointed out Crystal Spring
Farm as the model to all the farmers in
his county.

One day as John drove the Ford into
town he noticed that the old Bennett
house, long vacant and dilapidated, was
receiving a fresh coat of paint. It grew
lovelier with each new errand to town. It
was painted a soft cream color with pale
green blinds which John loved to look at
because they reminded him of Hope's

favorite sweater. There was a roomy
porch with green window-boxes full of
ferns from the woods and gay geraniums.
Green and white striped awnings, and
dainty curtains were at the windows.
The cottage was located at the cross-
roads which commanded a wide sweep of
tourist country; and, by the time the
tourist season had opened, the broad,
shady porch was full of cream white
tables and chairs, and on the tables pale
green Japanese dishes. Over the freshly
painted gate there hung a sign, "The
Cream House."

No, none knew better than John Ash-
more the quality of cream served at
"The Cream House." The business-
like, brown-haired young woman in
charge patronized Crystal Spring Farm
for the cream and milk which made
famous the ice-cream, the cream-cake,
the cream-pie, the chicken with cream
biscuits, the creamed potatoes of "The
Cream House." Beside each pale green
Japanese plate was served a pasteboard
container, upon the lid of which there
stood in green lettering the words,
"Crystal Spring Farm. Creamy milk
untouched by human hands." John
washed the milking machine himself in
order that Crystal Spring Farm should
live up to its reputation for perfect
spotlessness. The increase in the price of
the milk thus served made John smile
over his account book.

"How did you ever think of anything
as clever as these little wax-paper-lined
pasteboard milk containers?" John asked
the brown-haired business-like young
"Cream House" manager, Jane Penney.

"The idea wasn't mine at all," she
replied as she pulled a stray weed from
a window box. "The friend of mine who
is a part owner of 'The Cream House'
thought of it. She said that the people
who like their handkerchiefs untouched
by human hands when they buy them
would appreciate buying good milk that
way. Most of the bright ideas about this
place are hers anyway. She is the one
who furnishes the imagination which is-

THE MAGICIAN'S DAUGHTER

499

needed to make a place like this just
right to appeal to the populace. I can
furnish two strong hands and a little
business sense, but I haven't a drop of
imagination in my composition." John
laughed as he said goodbye to the busi-
ness-like, brown-haired, young manager,
and to the pale green blinds which re-
minded him of Hope's sweater.

"That friend of yours is a friend of
mine, all right," he said from the door-
step. "The profits of Crystal Spring
Farm are increasing every time I fill
'The Cream House' milk order. I have
a particular reason for wanting to make
good this year, financially."

"So have we all of us," laughed the
business-like young person as she lovingly
watered the geraniums and ferns in the
green window boxes.

One day when John came over the hill
he discovered the Henderson car drawn up
into the driveway at "The Cream House."
He was surprised to find Hope chatting
intimately on the porch with the manager,
Jane Penney, while Mr. Henderson, still
in the car, was lunching upon cream-pie
from a pale green plate. "Looks almost
human," commented John to the little
Ford.

"I have to inspect this 'Cream House'
once in a while myself," was Hope's re-
mark to John as she ran back to the car,
just as Mr. Henderson had finished the
cream-pie. "It was your second piece,
father, three wouldn't be good for you."
Her foot was already on the starter.
John watched the big gray car and Hope's
green sweater out of sight before he re-
membered his errand at "The Cream
House."

"Wish you'd keep the 'Cream House'
open all winter," John remarked, as he
ran up the porch steps, two steps at a
time.

"One more glimpse of a green sweater
is pleasant, isn't it?" said the business-
like proprietor, demurely. "It is restful
to the eve."

The color deepened in John's bronzed
cheek. "Just as a matter of business, I

mean, of course. I'm going to miss the
extra profits when 'The Cream House'
closes and I have to ship milk and cream
for the old price. The extra profits on
what you sell in these new containers
amount to more than I dreamed it
would in the beginning."

The bean crop that year was a total
failure. The wet spring which had made
wonderful pastures and such a hay crop
as Crystal Spring Farm had never before
produced was not favorable to beans.
The soy beans planted with the corn were
a success, but John had figured upon at
least five hundred dollars profit from the
big field of limas and red kidneys which
he had planted in response to the world
call for protein foods. It was a sober-
faced John who pondered over his ac-
count books. This five hundred dollars
was particularly needed to double the
farm profits, and there seemed no way
to figure without it. The winter wood
cutting had been estimated already at its
utmost limit, and the maple sugar making
was figured upon the basis of an extra
good sap year. John lay awake those
sleep-inspiring, frosty fall nights ponder-
ing over ways to make the farm produce
the extra five hundred dollars.

The manager of "The Cream House"
noticed John's painfully glum appear-
ance, but, as a tactful as well as business-
like young person, she asked no questions.
"The Cream House" was to close for the
winter the next week. The manager was
to take a vacation and then bring her
mother back at Thanksgiving to spend
the winter at "the Cream House."

"I'm going to live," she said, "on the
profits of home-made cakes and candies
shipped to all the customers I've secured
this summer. If I could only ship cream
pie my fortune would be made."

It was the very end of the tourist
season and the milk profits were not as
large. As John went to fill the order
for the last day of the season Jane
Penney ran to meet him with dancing
eyes. "What do you suppose has hap-
pened, John Ashmore?" she cried ex-

500

AMERICAN COOKERY

citedly. "What celebrity do you sup-
pose I've been entertaining to-day?
Talk about Mohamet coming to the
mountain! Your Mohamet as well as
mine has been traveling these roads!"

"Fire away. I'm listening." John
saluted and stood at attention.

"The owner and manager of the Hotel
Hastoria, up at the capital, has been a
guest at 'The Cream House' this very
day. It's Mr. Hastings, you know.
He ate so much of my humble culinary
products that I thought he'd burst.
Then he inquired if I did the cooking.
I was scared to death, but I confessed
that I did. Then what do you suppose
he asked? He asked if I'd consider an
offer for filling his order for cream cakes
all winter. I'm not even going to get
time for a vacation!"

"Congratulations!" cried John, as he
shook her hand.

"John Ashmore, shake hands with
yourself. I'm just coming to your part
of Mohamet's visit. Mr. Hastings then
inquired into the origin of the little milk
containers and as to the situation and
history of Crystal Spring Farm. I evi-
dently gave a satisfactory report, for he
decided that he had lingered so long at
my table that he didn't have time enough
to go over the hill in search of you. He is
going to open a correspondence with you
concerning the proposition of placing
Crystal Spring Farm milk, untouched by
human hands, before the frequenters of
the Hotel Hastoria."

The look upon John Ashmore's face
made swift tears spring to the eyes of the
brown-haired, business-like young man-
ager of "The Cream House." She went
on, "Your humble servant had the
presence of mind to ask the chauffeur
where they were to stop for the night,
and when they expected to arrive there.
Don't let Mr. Hastings forget about
starting that correspondence. Sit down
at my desk and call him up by long dis-
tance telephone. There's no time like
the present. If they've had a good trip,
he's had time to eat all that will be good

for him after his little meal at 'The
Cream House.' He'll have finished his
cigar by now and will be just in a mood
to have a little chat with you."

"Luck is not with me these days to
that extent. He's probably had so many
blowouts that he hasn't arrived yet.
Maybe they've even skidded over the
embankment on the Okono Mountain
Road and rolled down hill into the river."
Nevertheless John Ashmore seated him-
self at the little cream-colored desk and
took down the telephone receiver.

When John Ashmore hung up the re-
ceiver again he did it with the air of a
conquering general. "The correspond-
ence will begin at once. I'll get my con-
tract on the noon mail tomorrow. You
never could guess the price the man is
offering and the quantity he wants!"

There was a most maternal look in the
brown eyes of the business-like young
manager as she watched John crank the
Ford. "Hope Henderson ought to be
the happiest girl in the world," she
whispered to the green window boxes, as
she covered them from the frost. "She
deserves all the good things, too, which
life can bring her."

The big gray car next morning followed
close upon the heels of the rural mail
carrier's black horse. John and the
contract from Mr. Hastings were to be
found under the snow apple tree, at the
end of the lane, and Hope speedily did
the finding. When she heard the story
of the total bean failure, with which John
began, she lived over again his dark days.
John drew her close then, and held the
contract from Mr. Hastings before her
dazed eyes. "Cheer up, that means a
good, wide margin above our double pro-
fits. I haven't got to worry too hard
about the wood cutting and the sugar
making!"

Hope, leaning cosily against John's
rough mackinaw-covered shoulder, staged
the interview with her father. That
evening, when he was sitting before the
open fire in the old fireplace he had loved
as a boy, John and Hope would steal up

THE HOUSEKEEPER IN TOKYO

501

behind him with the offer from Mr.
Hastings and the farm account books.
"My luck in life seems to have turned
this year. I'm almost stunned," re-
marked John.

"I can't complain over my share of the
profits of 'The Cream House' either,"
twinkled Hope as she lovingly fingered
the long official envelope with Hotel
Hastoria on the corner.

"What do you mean?" gasped John
in amazement. "You aren't connected
with 'The Cream House,' are you?':

"If being the beginning of it isn't being
connected with it, tell me what is!"
laughed Hope. "Don't you remember
that Spanish folk-tale of the Magician's
Daughter? Do you think I'd allow any
Spanish folk-tale person to beat Hope
Henderson when it came to, at least,
making an effort to help her man meet a
difficult proposition? You little know
the scheming person who has gotten
herself engaged to you, John Ashmore."

" I don't understand yet. Hope Hender-
son, I'll pick you up and shake you if
you don't tell me what you're driving at,

and tell me instanter" and John seized
Hope's sweater-covered plump shoulders
with two firm hands.

Hope viewed the firm hands with a
grimace. "Go ahead, cave man."

"Go ahead yourself, Miss Henderson,
please." Hope twisted her head to
deposit a tiny kiss upon the firm wrist.
Then she proceeded. "I have a little
money of my own which mother left me
when she died. While I was lying awake
nights trying to think of a way to be a
Magician's daughter to my prince, I
met my old school friend, Jane Penney.
Jane was crazy to drop teaching and go
into a tea-room. She asked me if I'd
ever happened upon any suitable sites
for a new tea-room in any of my auto
wanderings. I thought of the old Ben-
nett place at once, and the rest has been
easy. Jane is making so much she'll soon
get my money all paid back. She'll be a
pleasant neighbor, too, when I'm living
at Crystal Spring Farm."

"Talk about the doings of Magician's
daughters," cried John Ashmore, as he
held Hope tight.

The Housekeeper in Tokyo

THE BLUE BUNDLE
By Emily Kennedy

ONE of the most amusing and
diverting things that occur to
break the monotony of every-day
life in Tokyo is a visit from our friend the
curio-man. There are very few foreigners
living in Japan who are not collectors of
Oriental ware of one sort or another.

For one, it may be old "Blue and
white," for another, old lacquer, or old
ivories, or quaint teakettles, or temple
candlesticks, or old brocades. Or it may
be inros, those series of fascinating and
beautiful little medicine boxes all fitted
perfectly together and hung on a silken
cord. Or it may be what is called
"Sword Furniture" — the gold or silver

or bronze guards and ornaments from old
swords. Or, perhaps, it is that craze at
present most dangerous of all to the
pocket-book — ■ Japanese color prints.

Whatever it is that appeals to the
collector, he or she is always looking for
the most perfect specimen of its kind.
Any day in some old shop or out of some
curio-man's bundle it may appear to his
delighted gaze.

There is all the joy of anticipation and
uncertainty, and of rivalry, too.

"Where did you find it, and how much
did you have to pay for it?" we demand
unblushingly of one another, looking the
coveted object over critically for flaws.

502

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Who brought it to you? Not that
wretch Yamamoto? And he knows I
have been looking for just such a one for
years!"

Each has his own friends among the
curio-men, who bear in mind the fact
that Danna-San (the master) collects
old netsukes, those quaintly carved but-
tons that hang from the purse and pipe-
case, and that Okusan (the mistress) has
a special fondness for Old Blue and White
Imari Porcelain.

When on his rounds he discovers a
fine netsuke, of a gloss and polish which
comes only from many years of handling
and constant use, he acquires it and lays
it aside. Or when he receives from the
country a porcelain boat of beautiful
blue, of perfect glaze and rare design,
it is not put out among the other objects
displayed for sale in his shop. Not for
the ignorant stray tourist is such a
treasure, though he might willingly pay
three times its value. But in its own
wrappings, in its own little neat wooden
box, it is hidden away in one of those
cupboards with sliding doors (which
happen, here and there, in his abode)
awaiting a convenient season.

Then one day, just after lunch, when
it is a question of work or golf, bandages
or afternoon siesta, a soft voice an-
nounces: "Yamamoto-San."

"Oh, very well," you answer, "tell
him to come in; tell him I haven't any
money today, but I will see what he has
brought."

Within a few minutes there is a gentle
tap at the door, and answering your
summons a tall, gaunt figure appears, or
so he 'would appear if he were ever up-
right in your presence; but he comes
bowing at every step and weighed down
by a huge bundle on his back, which from
its size might contain a full-grown sewing-
machine or several small tables, all
wrapped with great neatness and exact-
ness in a dull blue wrapping cloth, known
as a "furushiki."

He emerges from the doorway two
steps, puts his bundle down, drops upon

his knees, and, putting his forehead to the
floor several times, he salutes you with
indrawn breath, and thanks you for all
your past patronage and favors.

You say it amounts to nothing and
greet him with a smile.

Ah yes, you smile. You cannot help
it, for never since the days when at dawn
you snatched your Christmas stocking
from its nail by the chimney piece and
scuttled into bed to investigate its
fascinating contents, have you felt such a
thrill of anticipation.

The sight of that blue bundle with its
humps and excrescences, its square corners
appearing under its thick wrapping, here
and there, excites your curiosity. You
are impatient to see its contents, but you
talk about the weather.

"Yes, this wind and dust is very dan-
gerous in Tokyo." Or you are expecting
a friend soon from America. She is very
fond of curios. He must find some
good things for her, etc. You prolong
that moment, for until the bundle is
untied, who knows but there may be
something there you could not possibly
live without? When the long slender
hand unties the knot, you discover that
the secret is still unrevealed, for every
object has its own separate furushiki and
box. The neatness and patience of the
Japanese!

One by one the boxes are opened and
the treasures set before you.

There is a carved and lacquered Bud-
dha, seated on a lotus in a lacquered
shrine. There is a bronze incense-burner,
some temple candlesticks, and an ex-
quisite Chinese five-color porcelain bowl.
There are some brocades, and some
prints, and, last of all, there is the old blue
and white Imari boat, that sees the light
of day in Tokyo for the first time, sitting
proudly on top of its own box, and the
two or three rare netsukes, each signed
by the master who carved it long ago.
You admire the Buddha, you say the
gold lacquer has turned a most lovely
soft color with age. You put it down re-
luctantly. You wonder if Mr. W. would

THE HOUSEKEEPER IN TOKYO

503

like the candlesticks, they are such nice
ones, and he is making a collection.
Yamamoto does not know Mr. W. You
give him a card and on it you write:
"This is Yamamoto-San, an old friend
of mine; he is honest, and very reasonable
in his prices; he has some fine candle-
sticks."

You look at the five-color bowl and
wish that you were rich or that these
were not war-times. All curio-men like
to have their things admired, but in the
end you buy the old blu« boat, and
Danna-San gets the netsukes. Danna-
San drives a hard bargain, and for that
reason Yamamoto always puts up the
price a wee bit for him in the beginning
in order to come down and leave him with
a comfortable feeling of having bought at
his own figure. The bargaining between
them is usually like this:

Danna-San picks up the best of the
netsukes, having first examined them all
very carefully. This one is a carving of
a little man seated on a flat-nosed fish,
trying bravely to hold him down, and
represents Diplomacy. "How much are
you asking for this very poor old bone
thing?" he demands with a grin. Yama-
moto grins also and says the netsuke is

real ivory, of very best carving and work-
manship, very very old, and too cheap —
"only six yen."

Danna-San could not think of giving
more than five (which is the real price),
and after much more conversation he
gets it at that, or he puts them all to-
gether in one lot and gets three yen re-
duction, and everybody is happy and
satisfied.

Each thing is then carefully wrapped
and all tied up again in the blue cloth,
and before it is lifted, Yamamoto puts
his forehead to the floor three times,
drawing in his breath, while you thank
him for having brought the boat you
have wanted for so long. Then with
many bows, and smiles, and "arigatoes"
(Thank you), and "sayonaras" (Good-
bye), he backs through the door, and
vanishes from view.

Alas! There are but few Yamamotos
left — like the old-time darkey, he is of
a type that is fast disappearing. His
fine manners, his ready smile, his interest,
his knowledge of his wares and of human
nature, his sense of humor, and his real
worth and dignity combine to make him a
personality who will be long and grate-
fully remembered.

Love at the Door

Love at the door of life, we know-
That the Shining Hills are far,

And long is the road and gray the miles
To the vales where the true dreams are.

Dim are the Shining Hills, and long
Is the way your feet must tread,

But that is the road that Love must go
When all we can say is said.

So go, O Love at the door of life,
Lest Love should no longer wait!

At the end of the road you two shall stand
At last at a home and gate!

Arthur Wallace Peach.

Marketing in the Philippines

From the Diary of an Army Woman
By Kathleen Tyndall

EIGHT o'clock, of a spring morning,
breakfast was over, the kitchen
cool and dark, and across the
Parade I could see our incomparable
Chinese cook market bound. At the
same hour each morning, except, of
course, in the rainy season, he set out, a
comfortable looking figure in his loose
black pantaloons, dark blue linen coat

or could buy a half dozen for three pesos,
one dollar and a half. Buying from the
native is an art; first the chicken vender
after we, Lee and I, had chosen our
"manocks" would name a price, where-
upon Lee would throw up his hands and
scream, literally, after which preliminaries
they would each give their respective
trousers a hitch and squat down to a

hanging quite down to his knees, a shape- bargaining wrangle. After half an hour,

less and ancient black felt hat topping off
his fat, kindly face, an umbrella, remark-
able for use and not for beauty, held over
his head and a basket swung in the crook
of his arm.

The market, a small native affair, and
only patronized by Lee from the Post, was
somewhere in the tiny barrio of Sepang
Bato which the soldiers, and for very
good reasons, all unanimously called
''Sloppy bottom." We often had very
good fish and crabs from this market,
fruit and very rarely vegetables. The
native women in their picturesque cos-
tumes came by with fruit in large flat
baskets, mangoes, a wonderful lemon,
yellow on the outside and melted gold
within. Mangoes were always expensive,
for not only was the season short, but
they were a fruit fit for a feast of the
gods and much desired. Small native
oranges were also somewhat rare and
always expensive for that time and
place, being seventy-five or eighty centa-
vos a dozen, or from 35 to 40 cents gold.
Several times a week the chicken man

the vendor going down a few centavos
and Lee going up a notch or two, the bar-
gain would be struck and the spoils ours.
Often I have heard one or the other go of!
boasting that he had come down or gone
up ten centavos, five cents, after all this
arguing. Truly time is made for fools in
the tropics.

Sometimes the vendor would bring
ducks, sometimes a turkey and then
again reed birds, tiny birds found near
rice paddies, which the natives catch in
snares and bring to your door alive;
these I have often bought by the half-
dozen for fifty centavos, making a most
delicious meal for a quarter.

Quite near us, perhaps three-quarters
of a mile away, a Japanese had started
a garden, a rather young enterprise and
therefore limited. With a long, sharp
knife he would cut down the bunches of
bananas, the entire bunch, which, after
surveying all on the tree, one decided
upon, and deliver it to your wagon for
seventy-five cents gold. There are, as
every one knows, bananas and bananas.

came by, walking miles from the market The Philippine banana is shorter and

town of Angeles, his baskets, round
wicker affairs, hanging one at each end
of a long bamboo pole, which he balanced
over his shoulders. The chickens are
smaller than American chickens and
skinnier and seem even to taste less
"chickeny" than ours; however, one can

thicker than the ones we know, the red
banana being much in favor and the
Lacatan considered the king of the
species. Bananas sold at about ten
centavos a dozen. Eggs, small things,
always sold at fifty centavos a dozen.
I had a woman who supplied me each

504

■a

MARKETING IN THE PHILIPPINES

505

week and it was Lee's invariable delight
to have a pan of water ready and try each
one to see that not one was "malo."

Several miles away the large native
town of Angeles, pronounced, of course, in
the Spanish way, boasted a large native
market. Once in a while several women
would band together and induce the
Quartermaster to let us have a Daugherty
wagon and four mules, whereupon, with a
teamster with his long black whip curling
up in the air, we would set forth. The
roads were utterly beyond description
and I'm sure I've heard the Missouri
mules sigh, gusty sighs, on certain
stretches that seemed just too awful,
but then thinking doubtless "it can be
done" they'd give a pull and away we'd
go. Just before getting into the town
there had grown up over the trees and
fences a wonderful buginvillsea vine
with its purple, papery looking blossoms,
the only bit of beauty I ever saw in the
place. The market, a very large one,
was, at first, a bit overpowering as to
smells, but one grew hardened to that.
In a large open space, roofed, but not
walled in, the wares were spread broad-
cast with their attendants squatted beside
them. Cabbages were always very ex-
pensive, selling for never less than
thirty-five or forty cents gold; limes
wonderfully juicy and thin-skinned, were
always to be had for fifteen centavos a
dozen, seven and a half cents American
money. Camotes, sweet potatoes,
though very small, were always good and
very cheap. The native egg-plants are
delicious, in color the same as ours, but
instead of being pear-shaped they are
long and narrow, about as long as a
banana but not so thick; these sold for
about a centavo or twTo apiece. Ochre,
green peppers, tomatoes and, once in
a while, young yellow corn, were all to be
had at a very low figure. Pomeloes, the
Philippine grape-fruit, are very dry, large,
thick skinned, and not to be eaten as
fruit, but they make an excellent salad.
Papayas, long, yellow, pear-shaped fruit,
are excellent, served very cold for break-

fast with a dash of lemon to give them
piquancy; also they are much used in
salads and ice cream, though they are
rather lacking in taste. I have, while
dining out, eaten ice cream made of
bread fruit and from chicos, the latter
a small brown fruit about the size of a
lime and selling for almost nothing.
Papayas are usually about five centavos
apieceor, perhaps, ten. Lettuce, of course,
one does not eat in the Philippines, as the
germ of enebic dysentery seems to thrive
in it. I have been told by a surgeon that
lettuce, even grown under glass as an
experiment, has been found to show the
dreaded germ. Pineapples here do not
compare with the Hawaiian pineapple,
though it is always a joy to have one
cut from the heart of the wonderful
plant whose purples and rose colors are
only to be found elsewhere in a sunset.

The natives, aside from selling raw
fruits, vegetables, fowrls on the roof,
fish and crabs swimming in tubs of water,
always have immense vessels of cooked
"chow" on the fire. One particular mess
I very well remember, fish I think from
the smell being its principal ingredient,
was a delicate looking pink which fairly
writhed and made me fly from the spot.
Ancient looking eggs and hair-raising
sweet cake wrere offered up as great
delicacies. Also, after a locust visitation,
hundreds of them were to be seen in the
markets selling at so much a quart.
The natives, not all of them, for my house
boy was insulted when I asked him if
he liked locusts, pull off the legs and
wings, and when cooked find them most
delicate.

On the other side of the market there
are dozens of booths where materials
are sold, all the materials being displayed
in plain view, the only place to sit being
the floor. All shops in the Philippines
use the Spanish meter or vara in prefer-
ence to our yard measure; one never
buys so many yards of material, but so
many varas or meters. In this town
there are many shops owned by China-
men, looking much like rabbit warrens,

506

AMERICAN COOKERY

all in a row and only distinguished by
numbers. Our favorite shop was 25,
and here we bought green glass lamps,
which with Japanese paper shades bought
in Manila made effective looking lamps,
kitchen utensils and even canned goods,
native candles, thick as small bottles, and
which burned forever.

Several of the Army women picked up
some lovely old Spanish furniture for a
song, a console table made of narra, the
Philippine mahogany, four chairs of a
most attractive pattern and a sofa that
one could never forget. No one else ever
found any, the people suddenly becoming
adamant on selling, if they had any.

A small wizened man, looking much
like a brown winter apple, Luis byname,
came along one day with a screen, made
of Suale with five panels, each panel with
some painting of native life, though, of
course, crudely done ; it was most effective,
the Filipina fruit-vendor with her basket
of fruit, the boy with his milk bottles and
different phases of native life were most
attractive. Seeing my eye brighten, Luis
said firmly five pesos, two-fifty gold, and
meekly I handed it over without even a
suggestion of a come-down. I was not
sorry, for afterwards I saw many he had
done, but none ever was quite so attrac-
tive or true to life as ours. From Luis I
bought some mats with paintings on
them for a few centavos, which I have had
framed and which have been much
admired.

Of course, we had the Commissary for
the mainstays of life, frozen meat sent
from Australia, very good^and not to be
compared with the meat prices of to-day.
American or European cows do not

thrive in the tropics, falling victims to
tuberculosis or some tropical disease,
so one gets only canned milk. Of all the
brands the Bear Brand milk from
Switzerland was the best and, after a time,
one became accustomed to it. Through
the Commissary one could order pilinuts,
a native nut, by far the most delicious nut
of any I've tasted. They are, when
shelled, much like an almond in shape,
much larger, richer and totally unlike
in flavor. Pilinuts are very rich in oil,
in fact, one can set a match to one and it
will burn from end to end on account of
its supply of oil. They do not take
kindly to our climate and though some
have brought back sacks of them, they
must be used speedily or will spoil.

The first of every month the Indian
merchants from India, who have numer-
ous shops in Manila, would appear with
coolies carrying hampers full of the
wonders of the East, silks, crepes,
Maltese lace, carved ivory and brass from
China and from India, embroidered
gauzes from Japan, wonderful embroid-
ered table linens, done on Canton linen
in the loveliest designs, cherry blossoms,
chrysanthemums, dragons, lilies, and
beauties enough to make one long for
Aladdin's lamp or an unlimited store of
gold. Then, too, hard on their heels,
would come embroidery men with their
piles of wondrously embroidered lingerie,
frocks, pillow-cases, in fact things all
too beautiful.

Thus with this endless procession of
willing hands offering kindly service one
can almost forget the world of shops and
live on, sipping nectar from this lotus
flower of the East.

Foot Hygiene

By F. M. Christianson

HERE is, I believe, no other so poor, weak, deformed feet, but the most
universally existent and perni- outstanding are narrow-toed, tight, ill-

cious a covering for any other
part of the body as that used for covering
the feet. You rarely ever see a foot
properly dressed and consequently no
beautiful feet.

The Romans did not approve of any
bodily apparel that detracted from or de-
stroyed the natural grace of the human
frame. To this end they wore sandals,
which gave the foot all the room to spread
itself that was required and the person

fitting, high-heeled boots. These tor-
ture the feet, prevent a spread of toes,
cramp the muscles of the legs and feet,
and by impairing the circulation keep the
feet cold.

A horse driven with a tight check-rein
cannot pull a heavy load up hill. He
must be able to get his head down on his
chest. Then he can take it up. Tight,
narrow, high-heeled boots are the check-
rein to the feet and prevent and destroy

they clothed in loosely hanging robes con- every bit of that natural vigor, grace and

fined only by a girdle about the waist.

The Indians wore moccasins and loose
clothing, too. Greek art is concerned
with drawing attention to a beautiful
form accompanied by a graceful, correct
carriage. They aimed at perfection in
the whole body.

There are twenty-six bones in the
ankle, instep and toes, and all the bones
in the body are united so as to form either
movable or immovable joints, and some
of the bones used to form movable joints
act as levers to move the body or carry
on some process necessary to the well-
being of the body, as for instance,

spring that is characteristic of the natural
foot.

Shoes of this vicious type break down
weak arches, make corns, bunions, cal-
louses and help on flat feet to become
flatter.

The right kind of a boot will have the
inner side in a straight line with the heel.
And all that is necessary is to give the
boot a broad sole with its outer border
curved in to meet its inner straight border.

Be sure to have stockings large enough,
well fitting, clean and soft, preferably of
wool.

Do not turn your toes out too much

mastication. There are three classes of when walking; it tires the feet and puts a

levers. In moving the head backward
the fulcrum is between the power and the
resistance. In raising the body on tip-
toe, on the other hand, the resistance is
in the centre, while, if we bend the fore-
arm, the power is in the middle; it can
easily be seen that the structure of the
foot is more nicely adjusted than the
finest machine and must adjust itself to
the many and varied commands it gets
from the brain. The feet must raise and
balance the body, while the toes spread
out wide and press the ground, and this
the foot can do well only when properly
shod.
There are many and varied causes of

great strain on the arches; it is not
natural and indicates a poor walker.

Indians and mountaineers keep their
feet nearly straight. It is the easiest way
to walk, gives a longer stride and keeps
off corns and bunions.

See that the feet are kept dry. If you
are caught in a rainstorm and get wet,
put on dry socks and boots as soon as you
stop walking and you will experience no
inconvenience. Never sit in wet socks
and shoes.

The growing hoarseness so often noted
in public speakers, as they proceed in their
speech, is often due to the fact that they
have wet feet. Their nervousness before

507

508

AMERICAN COOKERY

beginning makes the feet sweat and there
is a bond of sympathy between the throat
and the feet; so put on dry socks just be-
fore beginning to speak.

The old saying about keeping the feet
warm and the head cool is sound phi-
losophy.

Never go to the fair or on a hike in new
boots; always take an extra pair of socks
along.

If your feet feel sore and tender and
you are wearing cotton hose, discard
them for woolen ones and your trouble
will disappear.

Of late, physicians attach great im-
portance to conditions of the teeth in all
ailments. So it might be very useful to
inquire about the feet. Bad, weak,
unhealthy and uncomfortable feet are a
prolific source of nerve irritation, leg-
ache, back-ache, rheumatism, etc. These
conditions are often traceable to bad
feet, caused by wearing absurd shoes.
Very often the spine takes on an un-
natural curve that is a constant source of
strain on the muscles that support the
spine, and the result is nervous de-
pression and a whole train of evils.

Children should be taught to stand
squarely on both feet. They should be
shod in boots built on natural lines and
taught to lift the feet up, in walking,
and so discourage the habit of dragging
the feet along the floor.

A proper poise and carriage for the body
depends almost wholly on healthy feet,
shod with common-sense boots. The
balance of the body is destroyed by nar-
row, high-heeled boots, and when the
body is unbalanced there can be no har-
monious relation between the organs of
the viscera, muscles, circulation, and brain.

A mind tormented by aching feet is a
mind preoccupied. That means less work
accomplished, which results in loss of
production.

Avoid arch supports. These only add
to your weakness, if you have fallen
arches. Instead of providing a crutch
you want to exercise the feet to strengthen
the arches. Rising on the toes twenty

or thirty times, several times a day, will
strengthen the foot and leg muscles.
Persistence in the exercise will give
"spring" to the foot.

Avoid cushion soles, they are crutches
and emphasize your weakness. Seek
to harden the feet.

Avoid insoles. They are moisture
pads, and continual dampness softens the
skin so that it takes on blisters and
abrasions on the slightest provocation.

Foot Prophylactics

Wash the feet daily in tepid water and
soak them in warm water, washing with
soap once a week.

These ablutions will keep the skin
firm and healthy by removing dirt, dead
skin, sweat and decaying matter, which
would, otherwise, become breeding ground
for various bacteria. The nails should be
trimmed after the weekly soaking; they
will then be soft and easy to cut.
They should be cut square and not oval
as those of the hands. Dry the feet
especially well between the toes; this
precludes the formation of "soft" corns
between the toes. After the nails have
been cut they should be rubbed a few
times with a piece of whet-stone (which
the writer has found to be the finest nail-
file extant). The nails will be smooth
and will not cut through the hosiery so
easily, then.

If blisters threaten, through much
use of the feet, rub the soles with washing-
soap. Moisten the soap with water and
rub a layer on. If blisters have formed,
thread a needle with a woolen or cotton
thread, and pass the needle close to the
margin, in apparently good skin, letting
it come out on the other side. Then cut
the thread half an inch from the blister,
leaving the ends free. This will drain
the blister. Remove the threads in the
morning.

The value of the soap, in the boots, lies
in the fact that it has a great affinity for
water, and so takes up the moisture
thrown off by the feet.

Always wear rubbers and overshoes in

THE JOYOUS TURNOVER

509

wet weather. No leather is waterproof,
on the contrary it is porous and conse-
quently the feet are bound to become
moist, unless the boots or shoes are pro-
tected by rubbers.

Water is hurtful to all leathers and just
ruins the boots and, besides, it is un-
healthy to sit in damp shoes. Friends
that invite you to their drawing-rooms
do not want their rugs soiled by the water
and slush on your rubberless boots.

Never sit with rubbers on in the house.
It is unhealthy. It spoils the rubbers
and shoes. Save them for out-of-doors,
where they are really needed.

To sum up, wear well made, low-
heeled boots, built on right lines as be-
fore explained. Use stockings that are
large enough and wash the feet and trim
the nails often; do not turn the feet out,
and as far as your feet are concerned
you'll be 100% efficient.

The Joyous Turnover

By Grace P. T. Knudson

TO me there's magic in the very name
turnover. Perhaps because one of
my childhood literary (?) recollections is
of a whimsical poem on this subject,
with — ■ what appealed to me then as — ■
wonderful illustrations. These pictured
a host of jolly mince-pie turnovers, with
attenuated legs and arms and fat,
laughing faces, cutting up all sorts of
didos. As I write this there comes to
mind one extra saucy chap in the act of
dancing down a grand stairway. One
eye was a-wink and the other a-twinkle.
His tongue was in his cheek, and the
whole expression was so tantalizing that
I loved to gaze at him until my child
mouth watered.

Mince turnovers have ever since held
a place of their very own in my heart —
not to mention taste — and have grown
to be real cooking-day pets. Indeed, I
now look back to find that mince turn-
overs have been milestones, so to speak,
in my life.

Bridging the young years, from that
initial literary impression, we arrive
at the first visit to the great city. The
only memories I retain from that are of
the Persian embroidered vest of my new
traveling suit, the fear entertained by
every one of the then new electric street
cars, and the first bakery products I had
ever eaten — mince turnovers. They

were brown and flaky, thick and melty
as to crust. And the flavor of that which
filled their insides! The bakery product
has since fallen off from standard, and,
while I have sometimes approximated
that taste, I have never been able to
duplicate it.

The next recollection marks a time of
eye-opening discovery that an adored
uncle did not always think in harmony
with me. Mince turnovers were the
dessert. Uncle, an old seaman, called
them " Jo-froggers," in commemoration of
days on the Newfoundland and Georges
fishing banks, when the cook fried them
in pork-fat and inserted a shingle nail
in one. The sailor who drew the nailed
Jo-frogger was derided as the Jonah of
the schooner. From this tale the con-
versation drifted to a discussion of prac-
tical jokes. We came so near to blows,
over our diversity of opinion on this
matter, that we never fully recovered
faith in each other.

Finally, as a homesick and ovenless
American pioneering in the Philippines,
I was made acquainted with the delights
of the fried turnover in all its phases,
from mince to onion, and the land seemed
more desirable to live in.

Did you ever come in contact with one
who professed to dislike turnovers? ^ et
Concluded on page 542

510

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

Culinary Science and Pomestic Economics

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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
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In referring to an original entry, we must know
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Our Pledge

Though the clouds of war may lower,

And turmoil fill the breast,
Though enemies may threaten

In writhings of unrest,

Because our land is rested

In principles of RIGHT,
TO-MORROW will be brighter,

However dark the night!

The spirit of our fathers

Is still our guiding star
To help us quell impostors

And reason's gates unbar.

This month with veneration

We pledge our vows anew
In memory of those heroes

Whose lives were ever true!

Caroline L. Sumner.

THE HOUSE AND THE GARDEN

A HOME without a garden spot is not
the ideal home. Of course in cities
and large towns a garden may be well
nigh impossible, but wherever it is pos-
sible no house should be located without
suitable provision being made for a
garden. Upon homes with gardens the
welfare of society and state depends.

In larger and still larger numbers people
must get near to the soil whence come the
food supplies of all living beings. The
housewife who has access to a good garden
has resources at hand of incalculable
value. With fresh vegetables and fruit
in season the family diet may be com-
posed of that variety and character
which is indispensable to wholesome and
satisfactory living.

Not only in the matter of prudence and
economy is the garden helpful and
profitable, but it is also a source of many
other benefits. Recreation is one of
these. Rest often means change. Exer-
cise out of doors calls for some interesting
object in view — ■ some incentive to
activity. How easy to go to the garden
and find change of occupation, rest and
recreation, all in the open air. We love
to be out of doors. Nature does not
tire us. We need to get away daily
from the cares and duties of household
tasks and commune with the "God of
the open air." Go to the garden where
vegetables, fruits, and flowers may be
cultivated. Here care and worry pass
away and the house becomes a happy
home.

The home and garden are ever to be
intimately connected. They are part
and parcel of one place. Frequent
visits from one to the other are conducive
to complete well-being. Comfort and
liberty are said to be the things most
people are seeking for today. For com-
fort and liberty are not ideal homes
indispensable?

EVOLUTION OR REVOLUTION

SECRETARY LANE is reported to
have said recently, "There can be
no revolution in a democracy, because
we had a revolution which placed sov-
ereign power in the hands of the people,
and once for all we passed that gate."
It has been a long and weary way from
theocracy, aristocracy, and kingly rule
to government of the people, by the people
and for the people. What more can we
want? We have democracy. Even

EDITORIALS

511

women have gained the right of suffrage.
As a necessary convenience, we choose a
representative form of government. If
our laws are not just and right, all we
have to do is to choose legislators who
will make them right. This is what free
government means. And yet, a post-
war spirit of unrest seems world wide.
We take it much of the spirit emanates
from those who do not wish to work.
Instead of earning a livelihood by honest
labor, there are those who wish to live by
their wits and unlawfully come into
possession of what others, through steady
toil and thrift, may have acquired and
possess. These are enemies of society.

Unfortunately there are not a few
sentimental reformers who would make
excuses and apologies for evildoers.
These so-called parlor pacifists are a
menace to all law and order and the
stability of the state. Their assumption
is wrong; their logic is wrong; conse-
quently their conclusions are false. A
millennial age on this earth cannot be
brought to pass in a day. We have to
deal with facts, existing conditions.
Things must be called by their right
names. Without gainsaying, right is
right and wrong is wrong. Perhaps no
better or truer words were spoken by the
governor of A'lassachusetts in his late
inaugural address than the following:

"Our government belongs to the
people. Our property belongs to the
people. It is distributed. They own it.
The taxes are paid by the people. They
bear the burdens. The benefits of gov-
ernment must accrue to the people; not
to one class, but to all classes, to all the
people. The functions, the power, the
sovereignty of the government must be
kept where they have been placed by the
constitution and laws of the people.
Not private will, but that public will
which speaks with a divine' sanction,
must prevail."

No one can deny or wants to deny the
importance of free speech. It is a poor
cause that cannot bear full and free

investigation and discussion. All history
teaches that at times free speech results
in an irrepressible conflict of one side with
the other, i. e., between right and wrong.
This was the case in the war against
slavery. This was just the situation in
the late world war. Now we have passed
that gate and do not propose to sit idly
by and see all lost that has been gained in
the past. In the strife 'twixt truth and
error, right and wrong, we want to see
what of truth and right has been won and
accepted by mankind prevail. We believe
in gradual evolution, not in aggressive
revolution.

THE CUISINE OF FRANCE

FRENCH cookery has taken the lead
now for so long in all civilized
countries that one is apt to forget this
has not always been the case. There
was a time, and only as far back as the
end of the 16th century, when the cooking
of that country was in a state of com-
parative darkness, and forced to borrow
enlightenment from Italy and Spain.
The royal patronage, however, of Louis
XIV and XV came to its rescue, and from
that time onward French cookery stead-
ily increased in excellence, so that other
countries were fain to step in to borrow
its methods, and so remove the defects
of their own.

Nowadays, amongst the upper classes
of England, French and English cookery
are almost identical, but France has still
much to teach us in the economy of her
bourgeoise methods. The French peasant,
on an average, earns much less and leads
generally a far harder life than the
English working man, yet the former is
better and more daintily fed, and at
much less cost than the Englishman.
French bourgeoise cookery is essentially
a slow process, by which the natural
flavors of the substances are extracted
by gentle means, and other flavors
artfully blended. The frugal French
peasant woman delights to make a study
of the day's menu, and to turn her few
poor viands to the best advantage.

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Stews, ragouts, and braises largely replace
the expensive, ill-cooked English joint,
and a never-failing variety, especially of
fruit and vegetables, is always forth-
coming in the Frenchman's daily fare.

F. and c.

We believe American cookery is sec-
ondary to no other cookery in the world.
In ways of prudence, the use of meager
supplies, in making much of little, the
French and Italians may excel us.
Undoubtedly extravagance and waste
may be charged to American methods in
cooking. We need learn of the French
■ and cultivate the knack of using left-
overs, of making tasteful and nutritious
dishes of simple and less expensive
products. In one way or another, we
have come into possession of what has
been done in foreign lands and adapted
it to the needs of our own cuisine. Today
it may safely be assumed fewer ill-fed
people are to be found in America than
in any other part of the globe.

OUTLOOK

AMERICAN COOKERY is strictly a
culinary publication. It deals with
domestic science, household economics
and culinary matters especially. We do
not presume to enlighten or even express
our views on political affairs in general.
In these stirring times, however, we would
like to be thought alive and are willing
to be counted on the side of truth and
righteousness. Certainly the relation of
employer and employee is a question of
magnitude today. It concerns everybody.
Every home in the land is affected
thereby. Manifestly, economical sub-
jects must be given foremost attention
for the time being.

We anticipate great gain to improve-
ment of home life through the rapid
growth of domestic science departments
in the schools of the land. The Depart-
ment of Agriculture at Washington is
helping to forward this movement. Be-
sides issuing bulletins of information and
study on a great variety of topics, in the

Home Economics Section of the depart-
ment, it maintains a laboratory where
thousands of recipes for the American
kitchen are made and tested. In this
laboratory both gas and electricity are
used in cooking and the equipment for
cleanliness, accuracy and uniformity is
complete. Are we fully awake to the
importance, the significance of the study
of domestic science in our public schools?
Study and experience are needful to
successful attainment. In most subjects,
acquaintance with what has been done
in the past makes plain what is to be done
now.

We desire all our subscribers to renew

their subscriptions to American Cookery.
Our list is growing steadily, but we wish
it to grow much faster. Business in
general is called prosperous; happily,
many people seem very prosperous,
though publishers are not. The cost of
labor and paper is a constant menace to
the publisher. We are hopeful for more
normal times.

PRAYER FOR A LITTLE HOME

God send us a little home,

To come back to, when we roam.

Low walls, and fluted tiles,
Wide windows, a view for miles.

Red firelight and deep chairs,
Small white beds upstairs —

Great talk in little nooks,
Dim colors, rows of books.

One picture on each wall,
Not many things at all.

God send us a little ground,
Tall trees standing round.

Homely flowers in brown sod,
Overhead, thy stars, 0 God.

God bless, when winds blow,
Our home, and all we know.

Florence Bone in the London Spectator.

CROWN ROAST OF LAMB, POTATOES ANNA

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers

TX ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Baked Bean-and-Tomato Soup

SOFTEN two tablespoonfuls of butter
or butter substitute in a saucepan,
and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of
flour, one-quarter teaspoonful of mustard,
one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth tea-
spoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls
of sugar. Cook to a paste, then add two
cups of canned tomatoes, sifted through
colander, two cups of water or stock, and
one or two cups of baked beans, rubbed
through a colander with a wooden pestle.
Stir all over fire until the mixture boils,
then serve in deep tureen with well-
browned croutons.

Ham Soup

Take one-half pound of cooked ham
(trimmings will do), mince or chop it
fine. Blanch a good sized peeled
onion, and cook it in milk or stock till
tender, then chop it fine. Melt an
ounce of butter or fat in a stewpan; stir
in an ounce of flour, and cook whilst

stirring over the fire till of a pale brown
color; stir in gradually a quart of second
stock, stir till it boils, then add the
chopped ham and the onion, also a fine-
chopped carrot and a bay-leaf. Boil
gently for about an hour, then strain
through a fine sieve. Return the soup to
the stewpan, season with salt (if needed),
pepper and half a teaspoonful of sugar.
Reheat the soup, i. e., boil up, and skim.
Pour it into a hot soup tureen and serve
with a plate of small fried bread croutons.
These should be handed around with the
soup, and must not be put in the tureen,
as is so often the case. f. & c.

Crown Roast of Lamb

A crown roast of lamb is fashioned
from two loins with eight or nine rib
bones in each. The flank should be cut
off to leave all the rib bones of the same
length, about five inches from above the
"eye" of tender meat. The rib bones
should be freed of flesh, "Frenched,"

513

514

AMERICAN COOKERY

nearly to the tender, solid piece of meat.
In trimming the ribs, care should be
taken to trim to a straight line above the
tender portion of the meat. Cut apart
the back bone at the base, between each
chop, but do not cut up into the flesh;
this allows spreading the loins apart at
the base; turn the skin side in and con-
nect the two loins with two stitches, one
above the other, at each side, then press
into a crown or ring shape. Wrap each
rib in a slice of fat salt pork, to keep
the bones from burning and cover with
a buttered paper. Cook about one hour
and a quarter, basting with hot pork fat
each fifteen minutes. To serve, remove
the pork from the bones, and fill the
center with canned peas. Decorate with

Chicken-and-Oyster Pie

In a deep baking dish arrange layers
of cold cooked chicken and cleaned oysters,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add
tiny bits of butter here and there and
cover with a sauce made of chicken
broth.

For the crust, sift together into a bowl
a cup and a half of pastry flour, three
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a
scant half-teaspoonful of salt. With the
tips of the fingers work into the flour
about one-third a cup of shortening, then
with a knife mix the mass to a dough with
rich milk in quantity as is needed. Turn
the dough on a floured board, knead it
lightly and roll into a sheet, a little

CHICKEN-AND-OYSTER PIE

Potatoes Anna and parsley or mint
leaves. Serve with apple mint-jelly or
mint sauce.

Potatoes Anna

Pare the potatoes and cut them, length-
wise, into slices one quarter of an inch
thick; carefully put the slices together
so as to retain the original shape of the
potato, and then run two wooden tooth-
picks through each potato to keep them
together. Parboil for ten minutes, then
put in a baking pan, baste with a little
butter or dripping, melted in hot water,
and bake until the potatoes are tender,
basting them often in the meantime.

larger than the dish. Butter the edge
of the dish and set the crust in place.
Make two crosswise slits in the center of
the crust. Cut heart or crescent-shaped
pieces of crust, brush the under side of
these with cold water and set them upon
the crust. Brush over the whole top
with melted butter and bake about
forty-five minutes.

Potato-and-Liver Pie

Cook six medium-sized potatoes, cut
in slices, and place enough in baking dish
or casserole to cover the bottom. Over
them arrange strips of liver, and continue
until dish is filled with alternate layers

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

515

BAKED FISH

of potato and liver. One pound of liver
will be needed. Each layer of liver
should be seasoned with one-fourth
teaspoonful of pepper and one-half tea-
spoonful of salt, mixed and sifted over the
meat. Each layer of potato should be
seasoned with two teaspoonfuls of fine-
minced onion and one-half ounce of
breakfast bacon, chopped. The last
layer should be of potatoes. Pour over
all one cup of stock, cover, and bake one
hour in rather hot oven. Remove cover,
and continue baking until potatoes are
brown.

Baked Fish

. JClean a four-pound haddock, sprinkle
with salt, stuff and sew. Truss in an
upright position. Place slices of salt
pork in slits cut beside backbone. (A
fish sheet is of great assistance in re-
moving the fish in perfect shape to the
platter.) Brush over the fish sheet or
bottom of the pan with butter before
the fish is set in place. Dredge with
flour. Place in moderate oven. Baste

as soon as fat begins to melt and continue
basting every ten minutes, adding a little
hot water if necessary. Bake one hour.

Fish Stuffing

Remove the crust from one-fourth a
loaf of bread. Break into crumbs and
soak in cold water fifteen minutes; put
in a bit of cheesecloth and wring as dry
as possible; add one tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls of
chopped onion, one-fourth a teaspoonful,
each, of salt and pepper, one-fourth a cup
of melted butter, and one teaspoonful of
chopped pickles.

Fish Baked in Rolls

Shred two cups of cold, cooked fish,
and add to it a cup of white sauce in
which has been cooked a slice or two of
onion, cut into bits. Cut the tops from
six or eight small square rolls, and remove
part of the sof crumb, without breaking
the crust at the sides. Brush them with
melted butter and fill them with the pre-
pared fish. Cover the fish with some of

FISH BAKED IN ROLLS

516

AMERICAN COOKERY

the crumbs and dot with butter. Bake
until the crumbs are brown.

Breast of Chicken with Mush-
rooms

Place on a small dish for shirred eggs a
piece of buttered toast, then a thin slice
of broiled ham, then the cooked breasts of
a small chicken, then a few caps of fresh
mushrooms that have been cooked two
minutes in melted butter. Season with
salt and pepper, pour over one-fourth cup
of cream, cover with a glass bell and bake
in oven ten minutes.

not to curdle or separate the egg; the
mixture should be as smooth as soft
custard. This will be enough to fill six
baskets. Put mashed potato over top.
or short sticks of celery, or sliced tomato,
or any preferred garnish.

Terrapin Oysters

Put into a pan one tablespoonful of
butter or a substitute, one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of pepper, one of salt, one-
fourth a teaspoonfu of paprika,1 two
tablespoonfuls of chopped celery, two of
fresh sliced mushrooms, and eight oyster

BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS

Creamed Chicken in Bread Baskets

Bake a very light bread dough in small
round or square pans (three inches square
or three inches in diameter), scoring the
top to make it easy to cut the handle of
the basket later. The dough should be
especially well browned on the bottom
and sides. When cool enough, cut or
scoop out centers, leaving handle on top,
to make pretty baskets. Let these stand
in the oven with the door open, to keep
hot.

Prepare two cups of well-seasoned
white sauce, and add to this two cups of
cold chicken, cut in small pieces. Add
two well-beaten eggs, and the juice of
one-half a lemon — this must be stirred
rapidly into the creamed chicken so as

crabs. Cover, and cook fifteen minutes.
Add fifteen large oysters with the juice,
cook until gills separate and crinkle;
stir in one-fourth a cup of rich cream, and
serve at once.

Coffee Cake

Dissolve one cake of compressed yeast
in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water.
Add to one-half a cup of scalded-and-
cooled milk. Stir one cup and one-half
of flour into this liquid and beat until
the batter is smooth. Set aside in a
warm place to become light. (About one
hour.) Then add two eggs, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-fourth a cup of butter
(softened), one-fourth a cup of sugar, the
rind and juice of one lemon, one-eighth

SEASOXABLK-AXD-TKSTED RECI PES

517

COFFEE CAKE

a teaspoonful of nutmeg, about three cups
of flour. Knead thoroughly and again
set aside to become double in bulk.
Then toss on board, roll into a round
sheet one-fourth an inch thick, a little
broader than it is long. Spread with
softened butter. Through the broadest
width make a deep crease with the blunt
edge of the blade of a large knife. Par-
allel with crease sprinkle a few raisins
and a little sugar and cinnamon in the
center of each half-sheet of dough. Roll
the dough over the raisins, sugar and
cinnamon. Using the crease as a hinge
bring the edges of the two rolls together.
Place in a buttered dripping-pan. Ar-
range the cake in a crescent shape, with
the rolls on the outside curve. Cover
and set in a warm place to become light.
While rising the top roll will shrink a

little away from the lower. Bake in a
moderate oven. Just before it is done
remove from oven and brush over with
beaten white of egg. Return to oven for
five or ten minutes.

Baked Potatoes, Paprika

Scrub the potatoes with a vegetable
brush. Bake in a hot oven forty-five
minutes. Make two gashes in the top of
each potato, one at right angles to the
other. Gently squeeze to let out the
steam. Fold back the four corners of
skin. Place one tablespoonful of butter
on the exposed potato, and sprinkle
liberally with salt and paprika.

Chocolate Macaroons

Grate half a pound of almond paste
(the paste may be purchased in tins

BAKED POTATOES. PAPRIKA

518

AMERICAN COOKERY

holding one pound) on a lemon grater,
in order to lighten it; add the unbeaten
white of one egg and beat it in thor-
oughly, then beat in one cup of granu-
lated sugar, also two ounces of choco-
late, melted over hot water, and, lastly,
the unbeaten whites of two eggs, one at
a time, and beat thoroughly. Spread
paper on baking sheets, and on it, with
two teaspoons, form rounds and lady-
finger shapes, a little distance apart.
Dredge with granulated sugar. Bake in
a moderate oven about fifteen .minutes.
Too long baking makes macaroons brittle.

whole is quite firm. Have ready a mold
holding five cups; set a lady-finger maca-
roon, trimmed to the height of the mold,
at one end, rounding side next the mold,
and dispose a spoonful of the cream mix-
ture at its base to hold it in place; in the
same manner set a macaroon at the oppo-
site end, another half way between these,
on each side, and four others at regular
distances from those in place, then, using
a spoon, finish filling the mold with the
cream mixture. When unmolded deco-
rate with whipped cream and cherries.
The half cup of sugar added to the milk

CHOCOLATE MACAROON BAVARIAN CREAM

Chocolate Macaroon Bavarian
Cream

Scald one cup of milk and half a cup
of sugar. Soften one-third a package of
gelatine in one-third a cup of milk; beat
two egg-yolks; add two tablespoonfuls of
sugar and one-fourth a teaspoonful of
salt and beat again, then stir and cook in
the hot milk until the mixture thickens
slightly; add six chocolate macaroons
and the softened gelatine; mix thor-
oughly, then strain into a dish set into
ice-water. Stir occasionally, and when
the mixture begins to thicken, fold in
one cup of double cream and one cup of
cream from the top of a quart bottle of
milk, beaten light but not dry; cut and
fold the two mixtures together until the

may be caramelized, dissolved in one-
third a cup of water, boiled to a syrup
and then added to the milk; in this case,
use three tablespoonfuls of sugar with
the egg-yolks.

'Boiled" Custard with Snow Eggs

Scald one pint of milk in a double
boiler; beat the yolks of four eggs; add
one-third a cup of sugar and half a
teaspoonful of salt and beat again; mix
the yolks smooth with a little of the
hot milk, then return to the rest of the
milk and stir constantly until the mix-
ture thickens enough to coat the spoon.
When cooked enough, the foam on the
top of the mixture in the boiler will
largely disappear. The custard will

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

519

BOILED CUSTARD WITH SNOW EGGS

thicken more on cooling. Set the dish
of custard at once into cold water, con-
tinue the stirring for two or three min-
utes, then renew the water and stir for
a few minutes longer. If the dish can
stand in running water, so much the bet-
ter. Flavor with three-fourths a tea-
spoonful of vanilla just before serving.
Serve the custard in china or glass cups
with a "snow egg,J on the top of the
custard in each cup. Grate a little
nutmeg on the eggs if desired.

Snow Eggs

Beat the whites of two eggs very dry,
then very gradually beat into them a
scant half-cup of sugar. Continue the
beating until the mixture is very dry.
Have ready a saucepan of boiling water,
on the range wrhere the w^ater will keep
hot without bubbling. Dip two table-

spoons into the water, then take up a
spoonful of the meringue, and with the
other spoon shape the top smooth, form-
ing an oval shape like a rounding spoon-
ful of any material. With the second
spoon push the meringue into the water
and continue in the same manner until
the saucepan is filled and the material
is used. Turn the "eggs" often and let
cook about twenty minutes.

Cream one-half cup of butter; add one
cup and one-half of sugar, two eggs, one
teaspoonful of anise, and four cups of flour,
sifted with one-half teaspoonful of soda.
Add a little water carefully, using only
sufficient to make a stiff dough. Roll
out very thin; cut with fancy cutters.
Bake in a moderate oven a light amber
color.

COOKIES, CUT WITH FANCY CUTTERS

520

AMERICAN COOKERY

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PINEAPPLE-AND-MARSHMALLOW CUP

Pineapple-and-Marshmallow Cup

Mix together in a bowl one cup of
marshmallows cut into pieces, and two
cups of pineapple cut or shredded. Add
a little sugar to the pineapple, if it is the
fresh fruit. The preserved pineapple will
require no extra sweetening. Arrange
this mixture in sherbet glasses and place
on each a spoonful of whipped cream.
Decorate with a cherry and a half English
walnut, or with chopped nuts if preferred.
Serve 'with

Peanut Cookies

1 tablespoonful butter

2 tablespoonfuls sugar

1 egg

2 tablespoonfuls milk
^ cup of flour

\ teaspoonful baking

powder
\ teaspoonful salt
\ cup chopped pea-
nuts

Mix and drop by teaspoonfuls on a tin
sheet, not putting them too near to-
gether. Put a half-nut on each cookie.
Bake 12-15 minutes.

Chocolate Fudge Cake

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream;
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then
two squares of chocolate, grated, the
yolks of two eggs, beaten light, one cup
of sifted flour less two tablespoonfuls,
one teaspoonful of vanilla, the whites of
two eggs, beaten dry, and one cup of
pecan nut meats. Bake in a pan lined
with a buttered paper. The pan should
be 9 J by 5| inches, or its equivalent.
Cut the cake in cubes. The cubes
should be the size of caramels. The cake
may be cut when hot or cold.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE CAKE

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

521

Orange Sweetbreads

Let one pair of sweetbreads simmer
gently, covered with boiling water, for
twenty minutes; with a slice of lemon or
one of onion, and one-half teaspoonful
of salt. When parboiled blanch by
plunging into cold water, then take off
membranes. Cut sweetbreads into slices,
and saute in hot fat in pan until lightly
browned. Add to pan the following
sauce: One tablespoonful of butter
blended with one tablespoonful of flour,
this added to one cup of good stock,
veal, chicken, beef, or extract of beef, and
cooked with careful stirring until thick.
Season with one teaspoonful of scraped
onion, a speck of red pepper, the juice
and grated yellow rind of one-half
orange, and one teaspoonful of lemon
juice. Remove sweetbreads to serving
dish, and pour the sauce over them. ^

Orange Souffle

To the whites of three eggs add a small
pinch of salt, and beat until stiff. When
stiff, beat in gradually three tablespoon-
fuls of sugar. Beat the yolks of three
eggs until lemon-colored and thick; add
six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
and stir into them enough orange juice
to thin out to the consistency of this
cream. Into this fold carefully one-half
the beaten whites, slip into baking dish,
and cook carefully, either in moderate
oven or over hot water, until it puffs up.
Spread over it the pulp of three oranges,
cover with the remainder of the beaten
whites, and allow to stand in slow oven,
until whites are firm and just touched
with brown.

Steamed Coffee Custard

8 yolks of eggs
1 cup sugar
Speck of salt

3 cups scalded milk
1 cup strong black
coffee

Beat the egg-yolks, slightly, with a fork,
and add to them the salt and sugar.
Pour over them the scalded milk and

coffee, then strain into buttered custard
cups, and set in the oven in a pan of hot
water. Cover them and let them cook
until they are firm. Cool and serve.

Orange Tapioca

2 tablespoonfuls Min-
ute Tapioca

1 pint scalded milk
\ cup sugar

2 whites of eggs

Speck of salt
2 yolks of egg
6 oranges

2 tablespoonfuls pow-
dered sugar

\ teaspoonful orange extract
Soak the Minute Tapioca in enough
water to cover, then add it to the milk,
with the salt and sugar. Let it cook
twenty minutes, or until it is transparent.
Beat the yolks of the eggs with a fork,
slightly, then pour over them the milk
and tapioca. Return the whole to the
double boiler and cook until thickened
and creamy. Slice the oranges so as to
remove the seeds and tough membrane.
Lay the slices in a dish and pour the
tapioca over them. Beat the whites of
the eggs very stiff and add the powdered
sugar and the orange extract. Pile this
meringue on top of the pudding and brown
slightly in a moderate oven. Serve cold.

Cream Gingerbread

1 cup sour cream

1 cup molasses

2 teaspoonfuls baking
soda

2 teaspoonfuls ginger
\ teaspoonful salt
2\ cups flour

Mix and sift together the dry ingredi-
ents. Mix the cream and molasses and
blend this with the dry ingredients.
This makes about two dozen little cakes
if baked in muffin tins. They should be
baked about twenty-five minutes in a
moderate oven.

Sour Milk Gingerbread

\ cup molasses
\ cup sour milk
1 teaspoonful soda

1 teaspoonful ginger
\ teaspoonful salt
\\ cups flour

\\\ tablespoonfuls mazola

Mix and bake like the cream ginger-
bread. Instead of the sour milk the whey
which is left when cottage cheese is made
from sour milk may be used.

Well-Balanced Menus for

WEEK IN FEBRUARY

Breakfast

Grapefruit

Broiled Ham with Grilled Sweet Potatoes

Corn Meal Muffins

Coffee Cake (reheated) Coffee

Dinner

Clear Tomato Soup

Crown Roast of Lamb

Potatoes Anna

French Peas

Currant Jelly

Chocolate Macaroon Bavarian Cream

Half Cups of Coffee

Supper

Terrapin Oysters
Pineapple-and-Marshmallow Cup
Peanut Cookies Tea

Breakfast

Dates

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Salt Codfish Cakes, Gherkins

Brown Bread (reheated) Coffee

Luncheon

Eggs in Curry Sauce

Rye Meal Muffins

Lettuce Salad

Cocoa Orange Souffle Tea

Dinner

Chicken-and-Oyster Pie

Cranberry Jelly

Celery

Pulled Bread

Steamed Squash

Stewed Figs

Chocolate Fudge Cake Coffee

a
w

w
D

Breakfast

Orange Juice

Eggs Cooked in Shell

Buttered Toast

Bread Crumb Griddle Cakes

Coffee Cocoa

Luncheon

Baked Bean-and-Tomato Soup

Apple-and-Onion Salad

Steamed Coffee Custard

Dinner

Lamb Souffle

Baked Potatoes

Buttered Carrots and Peas

Apple-and-Celery Salad

Macaroon Pudding

Coffee

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Thin Cream
Stewed Prunes Toast

Bacon Broiled in Oven
Baked Potatoes
Coffee

Luncheon

Scalloped Cheese

Lettuce-and-Cress Salad, French Dressing

Spider Corn Cake

Rice with Figs Tea

Dinner

Hamburg Steak

Tomato Sauce

French Fried Potatoes

Boiled Onions

Raspberry Jiffy Jell

Coffee

w
a
w

O
>

Breakfast

Apple Sauce

Baked Sausages

Spider Corn Cake

Creamed Potatoes

Coffee

Luncheon

Potato-and-Liver Pie

Sour Milk Gingerbread

Cocoa

Dinner

Fish Baked in Moulds

Boiled Potatoes, Drawn Butter Sauce

Stewed Tomatoes

Cabbage Salad

Fig Frozen Custard

Coffee

Breakfast

Gluten Grits

Finnan Haddie-and-Potato Cakes

Yeast Rolls

Griddle Cakes

(Made with Kellogg's Toasted Corn Flakes)

Coffee

Luncheon

Baked Lima Beans

Toasted Muffins

Chili Sauce

Cream Gingerbread Tea

Dinner

Baked Fish

Riced Potatoes, Pickle Sauce

Hot House Cucumbers

Buttered Beets

Baba Apricot Sauce Coffee

"ft

Breakfast

Wheatena

French Omelet

Baked Bananas

Toast Coffee

Luncheon

Bread

Creamed Chicken in

Baskets

Celery (cooked and buttered)

Orange Salad

Peaches Cookies

Tea

Dinner

Lima Bean Soup

Sliced Ham

Maitre d'Hotel Potatoes

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Orange Sherbet Macaroons

Coffee

522

Menus for Special Occasions

VALENTINE PARTY

(Children)

Heart-shaped Sandwiches:

Cream Cheese-and-Pimiento (white bread)

Cream Cheese-and-Jelly (white bread)

Sliced Ham (white bread)

Sardine Paste (brown bread)

Cream Cheese, Candied Cherry-and-Hazelnut (brown bread)

Cocoa

Strawberry Ice Cream

Raspberry Sherbet

Heart-shaped cakes

VALENTINE LUNCHEON

Halves of Grapefruit with Candied Cherries

Halibut Timbales Truffled (heart-shaped), Hollandaise Sauce

Boned Lamb Chops, Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Delmonico Potatoes, Peas in Timbale Cases (heart-shaped)

Apple-and-Celery Salad

Heart-Shaped Cakes Raspberry Parfait

COLONIAL LUNCHEON

February 22

Grapefruit Cocktail
Olives Cream of Clam Soup Radishes

Broiled Oysters
Baking Powder Biscuits (size of quarter of a dollar)

Coleslaw

Cold Roast Turkey (sliced thin)

Cranberry Jelly (individual molds)

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches (cut hatchet-shape)

Buttered Asparagus

Celery Salad

Doughnuts Coffee

Maple Sugar Bonbons in Individual Hatchet-Shape Boxes

FORMAL DINNERS

Grapefruit, Bar-le-duc

Consomme Julienne

Lobster Cutlets, Sauce Tartare

Filet Mignon

Parisian Potatoes

Peas Carrots and Turnips (cut in cubes)

Chicken and Mushrooms (under glass)
Fruit Salad
Charlotte Russe
Bonbons Salted Nuts

Coffee

Oysters

Turtle Soup

Ripe Olives Salted Almonds Radishes

Halibut Mousseline, Lobster Sauce
Cucumbers
Crown of Lamb Franconia Potatoes

Peas
Sweetbreads Bechamel Sauce

Endive Salad

Peach Melba

Coffee

523

Menu-Making and Table Service

By Ethel V. Antes

DECIDING what to have for meals
is the feature of housekeeping
which is somewhat commonly
thought to be the most monotonous. In
case decision proves to be a difficult task,
it is well to reduce the matter to a system
which may be so arranged as to work
successfully and economically.

The first essential of a good working
system is familiarity with what the mar-
kets afford and with the price of the vari-
ous foods in them. Such knowledge can
be gained by visits to markets resulting
in either clear memory of what available
foods cost or in a simple check list
alphabetically arranged with the price
of commodities at varied times.

The second essential is knowledge of
the tastes of the individuals to be served.

The third essential is to make strong
effort to avoid hesitation. When a house-
keeper allows various possibilities as to
what she may have for dinner, to chase
back and forth for hours in her mind, she
is wasting nervous energy so fast that
she must, in a short time, become the
natural victim of her bad habits. Under
such circumstances, deciding what to
have becomes wearing as well as monoto-
nous.

The first secret of an appetizing bill of
fare is well cooked food. Every viand
should be as nearly perfect in taste as the
housekeeper can secure by using raw An office man would be content with a
materials of proper quality and by follow- breakfast of coffee and rolls, but a day
ing her recipe exactly as to the amount of laborer would need a much heartier meal,
each ingredient, and as to the order and The important thing is not to narrow

way in which it should be added to the the diet down to a few things, but to
other articles used in the recipe. know how to prepare all the food sub-

524

The second secret of a good- meal is
serving at it foods that go well to-
gether. Many housekeepers provided
well balanced dietaries long before any-
one had analyzed the food they served.
If a guiding instinct on this matter is not
possessed by a young housekeeper, she
can cultivate it to some extent by study-
ing proverbial combinations, such as,
pork and apple sauce; chicken and cran-
berry sauce; macaroni and cheese, etc.
It would be well to examine different
menus and to notice that the successful
ones do not combine many foods of the
same kind. The principle involved is
that the appetite is encouraged by differ-
ent kinds of food. The restaurant man-
ager knows that it pays to serve horse-
radish with oysters, and sauces of various
kinds with meat. Succession or alterna-
tion of foods of different tastes stimulate
not only the desire to take more food, but
also activity of digestion.

In these days, when there are so many
fads as to when, what and how one shall
eat, the housekeeper must exercise her
common sense and not attempt risky
experiments on herself and family. The
food of a family should be determined by
the occupations, ages and health of its
various members. A family containing
a number of growing children would not
have the same food as a family of adults.

MEN-UMAKING AND TABLE SERVICE

525

stances in a healthful, digestible and ap-
petizing manner, so that the table may-
be provided with a generous variety.

The best prepared meal may be marred
by an untidy table and poor service; and
by poor arrangements in the dining-
room. On proper table service depends
much of the comfort, cheerfulness and
refinement of the family.

The dining-room should be well lighted
and well ventilated. The chairs should
be comfortable and with backs almost
straight. The table should be broad.

There should always be a care to make
the table and food pleasing to the eye.

Well-laundered table linen; table-ware
that has been properly washed and wiped
and that is arranged in an orderly man-
ner, are the strongest factors in making a
table elegant and attractive.

A few flowers or a small plant or fern
will brighten a table more than any other
one thing that can be used.

The table, with its clean cloth and its
dishes arranged in good order, is ready to
have the first course placed and the meal
served.

The waitress should be scrupulously
neat and clean and as unobtrusive as
possible.

If the host serves, the waitress places

the food quietly at the right of the person
served. She should begin at one end of
the table and serve in order around it;
always observing the same order in which
she began for all courses. When there
is a choice of food, it is passed at the left
and low enough down so that the guest
may serve himself easily. Two vegetables
are passed at once, one in each hand.

Everything relating to one course only
must be removed at the end of that
course. Take food first; soiled plates
from the right, then clean dishes, then the
crumbs. The next course is placed and
the service continues as before. The
crumbs are removed after the salad
course.

In many households where there is a
regular waitress there is a rule sometimes
that nothing shall be passed by the mem-
bers of the family; while in other homes,
even where there is plenty of service, each
member of the family has a watchful
care of the needs of the other persons at
the table. In the second case the at-
mosphere is more sociable and friendly.
A certain amount of formality should
always be observed even at the simplest
family meal; but when this is carried too
far, it crushes sociability and cheerful-
ness.

The Making of Soups in French Kitchens

By Kurt Heppe

SOUPS are divided into different
classes.

The best known soups are the family
soups, called "garbures." (These are
not much used in hotels). The hotel
soups, on the other hand, are not much
used in families.

A well made hotel soup is a thing of
surpassing delicacy; it requires con-
summate skill.

Hotel soups form an important item

on the menu. They are daintily flavored,
and the family-man who tastes soups for
the first time in a high-class hotel is
surprised that so delectable a concoction
may take the place of the frequently
insipid offering of the home-dinner-
table.

The intrinsic value of soup is due to the
stock; a good stock is the foundation of a
good soup, and without a good stock no
good soup can be made.

526

AMERICAN COOKERY

In hotels, soups are divided into clear
and thick soups. The thick soups are
sub-divided into: Puree, Cream, Veloute
and Bisque soups.

Clear soups are thin soups, made with
chopped meat, stock, white of egg and
vegetables; they are not strained (that
means the vegetables contained in them
are in their original form).

Puree soups are strained thick soups,
made from vegetables, or legumes, with
a flavoring meat or bone.

Cream soups are made from puree
soups, by the addition of cream.

Veloute soups are strained thick soups,
made of stock, thickened with roux, and
flavored.

Bisque soups are fish soups (mostly
shell-fish), 'generally made of stock,
flavored with the fish indicated on the
menu, thickened with roux and strength-
ened with cream.

* The basic idea of soup-making is to
braize fine-cut vegetables, such as celery,
carrots, leeks and onions, in butter,
until the water they contain evaporates.
The butter then becomes saturated with
the exudations of the vegetables, while
the vegetables themselves become soft
and tender, and quickly flavor the
stock.

During the process of braizing, care
must be taken to start in with the
tougher vegetables, and to braize them a
few minutes longer, so that all shall be
equally tender.

The braizing of vegetables is the basic
idea of soup-making; it creates flavor.
When correctly done, and when a good
stock is used, then the soup cannot help
but be good.

Salt, pepper, bay-leaf, clove, thyme and
butter are sometimes added, to give
aromatic savour to the finished product.

Sufficient time must be allowed during
the cooking, to mellow the different in-
gredients, and to allow of thorough com-
bination.

Out of such a basic soup one may make
many other soups. A housewife, who
keeps a base for soups in her ice-box, and

boils this base from time to time, may
vary her soups daily, and yet save much
labor.

Soup, then, is nothing but a gradual
braizing of vegetables, in butter, an
addition of stock, a flavoring with savory,
and a seasoning with salt and pepper.

That is soup, or rather, that is the basic
idea of soup. But in order to perfect
the product, many soups are treated in
an individual way. In a good many
institutions all soups are prepared from
the above described preparation.

Now to repeat: in order to get the
foundation for good soup, put butter into
your casserole, put in your celery (cut
very small), braize for seven minutes,
then add the carrots (cut the same way);
after five minutes add leeks and onions;
stir the whole every half-minute (so it does
not get brown) (the vegetables must
only evaporate the water they contain).

When this is achieved, add a little
stock, and a little arrowroot (starch)
or roux. This is done to bind the soup
(to make it thick).

Soups made of aqueous vegetables
would be too thin, if not artificially
thickened. What makes soups gelat-
inous is the starch; it is either added in
the form of roux, flour, or arrowroot
(dissolved in cold stock), or it is extracted
through the cooking process, from mate-
rial rich in natural starch, such as potatoes,
peas, beans, etc.

The cook need not be nervous about
the amount of starch she dissolves, be-
cause, if the soup is found too thin, a
little more starch may be dissolved
separately, and it is then easily taken up
by the soup.

If the soup should turn out too thick,
the addition of stock will give it the
correct consistency.

When the soup is thickened, the stock
is added. This is done very gradually
(if we want chicken soup we use chicken
stock, if beef soups beef stock). With
a wire whisk the roux is worked vigo-
rously, and with the free hand the heated
stock is gradually added with a large

SOUP-MAKING IN FRENCH KITCHENS

527

ladle. The roux must be continuously-
worked so that the stock will take it up
evenly.

Supposing we want a cream of aspara-
gus soup: we take all the trimmings of
asparagus, we crush them, put them into
the casserole, and braize them for forty
minutes (or longer if necessary, until
they have become quite soft). In the
case of asparagus or other vegetable
cream soup, we add the roux last, after
the stock has been poured over the vege-
tables, as, otherwise, the starch would get
mixed with the vegetable and would
scorch. (The cook must at all times use
logic. Contrary to public opinion, there
is call for quite a little headwork in the
kitchen).

Roux has a great affinity for moisture;
it takes up six times its volume, in mois-
ture, and becomes a solid mass again if
left on the fire. In this stage it burns
(singes) very easily.

Now, with the stock poured over the
quite soft asparagus trimmings, we add:
salt, pepper, bay-leaf, clove, and thyme,
and give it a chance to affiliate with all

the ingredients, and to become thoroughly
permeated.

Then we add the thickening medium:
roux or arrowroot, dissolved in water or
cold stock.

When the permeation is achieved,
(after long continued simmering) we
strain the soup through a china-cap or
soup-strainer, put it into a large crock
or bain-marie, and keep it hot and ready
for service in the hot water bath on the
steam-table. Before the service begins,
we add some fresh cream and a little
butter. We then taste it to find whether
the seasoning should be corrected.

If we want to make a cream of lettuce
soup, we use the lettuce trimmings,
which have been carefully washed and
scalded in steam, and so on right down
the line with any vegetable of which we
desire to make a cream soup.

In the case of legumes (dehydrated
beans, peas, lentils, etc.) of which ex-
cellent puree soups may be made, water
is used instead of stock. They, too, can
be easily converted into cream soups,
by the simple addition of cream.

easona

bleR

ecipes

Eggs in Curry Sauce

4 eggs

1 teaspoonful chopped

onion
1 tablespoonful butter

^ tablespoonful curry-
powder
1 cup milk
Salt and pepper

Cook the eggs for thirty minutes in
water just below the boiling point, then
remove the shells and slice the eggs into a
buttered baking dish. Melt the butter in
a saucepan and cook the onion in the
butter until it is a golden brown. Add
the flour, salt, pepper and curry powder
to the melted butter to make a smooth
paste, then add the milk and let the sauce
cook until thickened, smooth and free
from all taste of raw starch. Pour this
sauce over the sliced eggs, cover with a
layer of buttered crumbs, brown in the
oven and serve very hot.

Rice with Figs

f cup of rice
1 cup water

\ teaspoonful salt
2 cups milk

W'ash and pick over the rice and let it
soak in the water for about an hour.
Then add to the rice and water the salt
and the milk. It may be cooked in a
double boiler or in a buttered baking
dish. When it is tender, white and
separate, serve it with

Fig Sauce

1 cup nice figs, cut into pieces

2 cups water

1 tablespoonful sugar

Stew the figs in the sugar and water
until they are tender. Serve a table-
spoonful with each helping of rice.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

Candlemas Day

IN cold countries, especially, February
2 is watched with interest to learn the
weather that is to follow. This is, no
doubt, owing to a couplet, which says:

"If Candlemas Day be fair and bright,
Winter will have another flight."

festival is ^doubtless the survival of the
ancient Roman custom. The Romans
devoted the month of February to the
infernal gods, as they held that at the
first of the month Pluto stole Proserpine,
and that Ceres, mother of Proserpine,
searched all through the night at Sicily
with torches alight from Mt. ^Etna.
In New England, many farmers used to Thus St> Agatha>s festival is kept still in

look over their bins and corn cribs to
ascertain whether there was enough of
food to allow the addition of a cow, or
extra hogs, or if there needs be1 a little
saving with the |. feed on hand. In
Scotland they say,

"If Candlemas be bright and clear,
There'll be twa winters a' the year."

Candlemas is a fixed feast day, and is
usually celebrated also by the church of
England, often by the Lutheran, and in
this country by the Episcopal Church.
This day is in commemoration of the
presentation of the Infant Jesus in the
Temple forty days after His birth.

It is often called Saint Simeon's Day,
on account of his saying, "A light to
lighten the Gentiles, and the glory of
mine people." Long years ago this was
also a "term" day in Scotland, this being

Sicily, huge processions carrying lighted
tapers being no small part.

In commemoration of Ceres, the
Romans had torchlight processions each
year. Thus the padres saw the habit so
firmly established, that they but sub-
stituted Madonna for Ceres, and as such
it still remains.

A George Washington Party

Naturally United States flags and
cherries play a prominent part in these
affairs, but one should use care not to
overdo either decoration, or to allow it to
degenerate into a farce, when the occasion
is in reality a glorious one.

The halls could be draped with United
States flags, while the dining room would
show cherries in profusion. The center-
piece a dwarf cherry tree, the place cards

one of the four days for the payment of white with sprays of cherries painted and

taxes, money, and so on.

From the Catholics the name Candle-
mas comes, as on this day such great
numbers of candles are carried in their
processions. It is a solemn and beautiful
sight. The priests and assistants in fine
robes, carrying large lighted candles, the
bright lights casting queer shadows all
around. On this day, too, the candles to
be used during the year are blest. This

tied with cherry-red ribbon; roast meat
garnished with beets, chicken salad with
decorations of cranberries; bowls of
deep red apples, ice cream colored with
cherry-red, cherry pie, all these may be
used with good effect. In the drawing
room, punch and colonial cake should be
served and this room, decorated with the
.beautiful colonial colors, blue and buff.
Wee pictures of Washington, tied with

528

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

529

these^colors, make delightful souvenirs,

as well as clusters of his favorite flower,

the romance-haunted Cape jasmine.

e. c. L.
* * *

Cooking with Sour Cream

CREAM as a substitute for lard has
many recommendations from the
standpoint of health. Many people are
unable, on account of weak digestions, to
eat pastry made with lard or a com-
pound, but few people are obliged to
refuse dishes shortened with cream.
The cost is about the same, if one has to
buy, but where cows are kept the expense
is greatly in favor of cream. Many
farmers' wives use cream for all pastry
except doughnuts, and the dishes are
superior in many respects to those made
with lard.

To the novice the idea of making pies
with cream seems ridiculous, but when
once the feat is tried the results are more
than satisfactory. Unless one is in the
habit of using baking powder instead of
soda and cream of tartar better results
may be obtained by souring the cream,
but only sweet cream can be used suc-
cessfully with baking powder. In cake
making allow half a cup of heavy cream
to each cake requiring two cups of flour,
and add both cream of tartar and soda, if
the cream is sour. In pie crust the pro-
portions are the same, but the dough must
not be handled more than necessary, as
the secret of good pie crust lies in light
mixing and little handling. In cookies
allow half a cup of cream to each half-cup
of wetting. Half a cup of cream to each
quart of flour -is right for biscuits and
two-thirds of a cup of cream to a quart of
flour for gems. For bread allow one
large mixing spoon of cream for each
loaf. Cream is used in the same manner
as lard, and may be used with any recipe,
provided one takes care to use both soda
and cream of tartar with sour cream and
baking powder with sweet cream. Bread
requires neither, so equal results are ob-
tained with sweet or sour cream.

The economical housewife will find the
following rules both wholesome and de-
licious and adapted to the weakest
digestions.

One-Egg Cake

Cream together one cup of sugar, half
a cup of sour cream and one egg. Add
pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of soda
in two-thirds a cup of milk, flavor with
vanilla and sift in two cups of flour and
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Bake
in medium hot oven, in biscuit pan or
gem pans. Can be baked in layers for
filling or flavored with cassia and raisins
if prefered.

Peanut Cookies

One large cup of sugar, half a cup sour
cream, one egg. Beat well together.
Add one. five-cent package of salted pea-
nuts after putting through meat grinder.
Put half a teaspoonful of soda into small
half-cup of skimmed milk and add with
flour to make stiff dough. One tea-
spoonful of cream of tartar in flour. Roll
thin and bake in quick oven until slightly
brown. By omitting the peanuts and
adding vanilla this rule makes very*good
sugar cookies.

Pie Crust

One pint of flour, half a teaspoonful
of salt, half a teaspoonful of cream of
tartar, and one quarter teaspoonful of
soda sifted together. Half a cup of sour
cream folded in lightly and enough water
to make a light dough. When mixing
never stir around the pan; use the folding
movement, turning the whole mass ai
once and stop as soon as flour is all taken
up. Roll out in usual way with plenty
of flour on board and bake quickly.

Bread

Sift one quart of flour into a bread
mixing pan with one tablespoonful of
salt and the same of sugar. Pour over
this one quart of warm water mixed with
half a yeast cake and two large mixing
spoons of sour cream. Stir all together

530

AMERICAN COOKERY

until the batter is like that of cake. Add
flour enough to make a moist dough and
set to rise without kneading. When
doubled in bulk turn on a well-floured
board and knead in flour enough to make
firm, but light loaves. Bake forty min-
utes in a medium hot oven. f. c. l.

Household Lubrication

THE graphite, or black lead in a
pencil, is an excellent lubricant for
the squeaking, rubbing surfaces of a door
that refuses to be silent. The small
particles of this metal fill out the rough
depressions in the bearings of the hinges,
and make the opening and closing of a
door a delight instead of a torture.

Oiling household machinery generally,
doors that stick, drawers that literally
refuse to open, and then yield, precipi-
tating the opener on the floor, and othei
things that seem to follow the natural
physical law that "each thing cares for
itself," can be done easily and effectively
without a generous use of oil. Only a
very little is necessary, and sewing ma-
chine oil is about as good as anything.
If you don't have such a thing in the
house, use a little bit of lard or even
butter, or a drop or two of salad oil.
Vaseline can also be used, or if you own
a machine, grease that is used in the
"grease cups" is a splendid lubricant.
It is just the thing for the recalcitrant
ice cream freezer, though it will be too
sticky for your typewriter or your sewing
machine.

Few housewives appreciate the value of
kerosene as a lubricant, if nothing else is
available. A drop or two of it will set
things going that have refused to go be-
fore. It is also extremely valuable as a
cleaner and can be used oftentimes to
great advantage in the place of soap and
water, as the odor housewives in general
object to quickly evaporates. The floor
can be cleaned with a well-oiled mop even
more effectively and quickly than with
soap and water. And it leaves a well-
oiled surface.

Light rubbing with a rag dipped in
kerosene will restore the pristine white-
ness of a lined bathtub almost instan-
taneously. White paint can also be
cleaned with a minimum of effort by its
use. Yesterday in a furniture house I
was much surprised to find a man en-
gaged in cleaning some brand new ivory
bedroom pieces with what I considered
a smelly, oily cloth. The salesman
laughed at me, when I remonstrated.
And after watching the man working I
was convinced. It takes the dirt and
stains off as if by magic, and with far
less work. I came home immediately
and tried it on my own white paint.

Soap is also valuable for use in lubri-
cating. A squeaky chair treated with
fine particles of soap in the cracks will
cease to squeak. Bureau drawers, also,
are sometimes better treated with small
particles of soap than with oil. m. m.

* * *
Chicken Fat for Pie Crust

No pie crust can compare with that
made from chicken fat. French chefs
use it, but the average cook would laugh
at you or call you stingy, if you suggested
using it.

Your French chef skims the fat from
the water in which chicken, or any fowl
has been boiled. The easiest way to do
this is to set the kettle containing the
broth in a cold place where the fat will
harden and can be readily removed.
This fat he then places in a pan and puts
either in the oven, or on the back of the
stove, until the fat is rendered, when he
carefully pours the clear fat into a bowl
and it is ready to use.

If the fat has been removed before the
chickens were cooked, the chef puts the
raw fat into a pan and tries out the fat
in the oven, or on the stove, in the manner
we have just described for the cooked
fat.

The dough left over from the pie crust
will keep until the next baking, if it is
put in a bowl and the chicken fat poured
over it. b. w. d.

ADVERTISEMENTS

(RISCO

^L For Frying - For Sh ortenmg
^^i * For Cake Making

akes

palatable foods

Crisco comes in this dust-proof,
sanitary container. One pound
net weight and larger packages.

Are You Tired of

Planning Meals?

Then send us 10 cents in
postage, and we'll send you
"The Calendar of Dinners",
containing 365 complete din-
ner menus — one for every day
in the year — and 615 recipes
for appetizing dishes that will
add zest to your meals. Marion
Harris Neil, who wrote this
book for us, also gives the
correct instructions for all
kinds of cooking — weights and
measures — cooking time tables
— and everything a cook possi-
bly can want to know to make
her meals successful. 231
pages, attractively bound in
cloth. Illustrated. Send for a
copy now. Address Depart-
ment A-2, The Procter &
Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio.

All food actually gains in flavor, in wholesomeness,
and in digestibility, when you use this modern,
economical, vegetable cooking fat.

You need no other cooking fat when you have
Crisco. Use it for all kinds of cooking. It is so
rich that less is required.

Make pastry with Crisco

— and your pie crust will be so flaky and tender
that it will melt in your mouth. And, best of all,
people who ordinarily cannot eat pastry find Crisco
pastry and biscuits and short-breads perfectly and
easily digestible. This is because Crisco is simply
wholesome vegetable oil, hardened by a special
process to proper shortening consistency.

Make cake with Crisco

Crisco is so white, so pure and so delicate that it
is a delightful enrichment for cakes. Just add a
teaspoonful of common salt for every cupful of
Crisco, and your cakes will taste as if made with
butter. Crisco gives white cakes a snowy, feathery
texture that makes them look as delicious as they
taste.

Fry with Crisco

— and your kitchen will be free from acrid smoke
and odor, because Crisco is odorless, and does not
smoke at frying heat. Fried things taste better,
too, because Crisco coats them instantly with a
protecting crust that keeps all the fat out and all
the flavor in. Since Crisco itself is tasteless, you
enjoy the full natural flavors of the food, without
the slightest greasy taste. There is no waste to
Crisco frying, because you can strain all the left-
over fat and use it again and again. It retains no
taste of anything — even onions — that has been
cooked in it.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

531

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe*
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4109. — "Will you^kindly give me
a recipe for a sweet, spongy Cheese Cake, which
probably has in it cottage cheese?"

There are so many entirely different
kinds of cakes called "cheese-cakes" —
even when there is not a particle of cheese

and beat into this, one at a time, three
eggs, not previously beaten. Continue
beating until the mixture will hang from
the fork, but not drop, and a sharp knife,
drawn through it, comes out clean.
Many fail in making a good chou-paste

in them, that we will give you recipes for through not observing these rules. Also

three distinctive kinds, in the hope that
the cake you mean will be among them;
or, if not, that you will find something
just as good.

Cheese Cake No. 1

Work one cup of butter or margarine

be sure that the mixture has not lost all
its heat by the time the last egg is added.
When the paste is finished, spread one-
half in a layer on a baking tin, cover with
cottage cheese, or hard cheese grated,
spread the remainder of the paste over
this, and bake in a rather quick oven for

into two cups and one-half of flour, pre- one-half hour, or until well puffed up and
viously sifted with two teaspoonfuls of brown.

baking powder. Beat the yolks of four
eggs into one-half pound of cottage
cheese, until the two are blended. Stir
the flour into this, and add the whites of
four eggs, stiffly beaten, and one-half cup
of sugar. Bake in a shallow pan in a
moderate oven, or in muffin tins if
preferred.

Sometimes one-half cup of grated hard
cheese is mixed with the flour; some-
times it is scattered over the top of the
cake after it is put into the oven. It
may be omitted if you like.

Cheese Cake No. 2

Make a chou-paste by boiling together,
with constant stirring, four tablespoon-
fuls of butter, four of flour, two of sugar,
and one-half teaspoonful of cinnamon in
one-half cup of water until the mixture
leaves the sides of the saucepan and
forms a stiff ball. Remove from fire,

Cheese Cake No. 3

This is an English recipe, for the famous
"lemon cheese cakes" offered in the tea-
rooms of Oxford and other cities.

Blend six tablespoonfuls of flour with
six tablespoonfuls of milk to a smooth
paste, and stir into two cups of boiling
mijk. Cook until thick and smooth.
Add six tablespoonfuls of sugar, six of
butter, one-fourth a teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, and the grated yellow rind of
one-half a lemon. Stir quickly into this
four slightly beaten eggs; pour into small
molds lined with puff-paste, and bake
twenty minutes in a quick oven.

Query No. 4110. — "Will you give me some
instructions for making Deviled Dishes?"

Deviled dishes are usually, though not
always, rechauffes, and are made from
the drumsticks of turkey or fowl, from

532

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Ryzon
level measure

ens hadn't <j3one

on strike in those davs

Think of the shock the housewife of today would get were
she to open a cook-book to a recipe for a simple cake and
read "Take twenty-two eggs"!

Recipes calling fox as many as thirty-six eggs, and even
"common biscuits" using six eggs were no novelties to the
home maker of the olden days!

But now, thanks to careful study and persistent research in
science, delicious cakes can be prepared without depending on
a large quantity of precious eggs to make them light and di-
gestible. Especially is this true with the use of Ryzon, the
Perfect Baking Powder, which is the latest chapter' in the
history of leavening agents. It is accurate, scientific, economical
and absolutely dependable.

Ryzon is packed in full 16 ounce pounds — also 25c and 15c packages. The
neav Ryzon Baking Book (original price Si. 00), containing 250 practical
recipes, ivill be mailed, postpaid upon receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except
in Canada. A pound tin of Ryzon and a copy of Ryzon Baking Book nvill
b? sent free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher avho writes us on
school stationery, giving official position.

GENERALCHEMICALCQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

533

534

AMERICAN COOKERY

left-over game or any other meat, or from
veal or lamb kidneys. The name
"deviled" is -used on account of the hot,
high seasoning. Two kinds of deviled
dishes are recognized, the so-called "wet
devils," and the "dry devils."

"Wet Devils"

Score cold turkey drumsticks, uncooked
veal kidneys, or any other meat with a
sharp knife, making rather deep incisions.
Rub into the cuts dry mustard, mixed
with pepper and salt, and broil until
brown over clear charcoal. Place on
platter in warming oven, and prepare the
following sauce:

Sauce for "Wet Devils'

Allow for each drumstick or kidney the
following: Two tablespoonfuls of flour
stirred into one tablespoonful of butter,
and cooked the same as white sauce with
five-eighths a cup of brown stock. Add
one teaspoonful, each, of the following:
Worcestershire sauce, mushroom or to-
mato ketchup, chili vinegar, and thick
(made) mustard. Stir all well together;
pour over drumstick, and send to the
table smoking hot.

"Dry Devils"

Score drumsticks, kidneys, etc. as
before, rub in pepper and salt, cover with
a thick coating of very stiff made mustard,
to which a pinch of cayenne has been
added, and cook on very hot pan, turning
frequently until brown.

Query No. 4111. — "Is there any objection
to adding Baking Soda to the water in cooking
beans or cabbage, or to using Baking Soda in
making tomato bisque, to keep it from curdling?

"Also, is it right to use a little Baking Soda
in cooking tart apples? It lessens the tartness
and is a sugar-saver."

Baking Soda in Cooking
Vegetables and Fruits

We are especially pleased that you
asked this question, thus giving us a
chance to put you right on a matter of
some importance.

The baking soda will soften the water

in cooking beans or cabbage, and the
vegetables will cook quicker and more
thoroughly, but the alkali has a destruc-
tive effect on the vitamines present in
these vegetables, and in all fresh foods.
Scientists tell us that these vitamines are
more important to nutrition than the
foods themselves are when deprived of
them, and that we lose the good of the
food, if the vitamines are destroyed.
Try adding a little vinegar to the water
for beans or cabbage; this will soften them
quite as well, and our friends, the vita-
mines, are not injured by acids, only by
alkalis.

Also, you can make tomato bisque with
entire success, without the use of soda,
if you cook the sifted tomato-pulp first
with the flour and butter, making a thick
paste, and then add the hot milk and
stir hard until the whole boils. Do not
be alarmed, if queer things happen in the
soup kettle on the addition of the milk
— • which, by the way, should be made all
at once, and not by degrees — but go on
stirring all the harder, until the ropiness
disappears, and you have a good, smooth
soup. The acid "edge" of the tomato
may be removed by adding one teaspoon-
ful of sugar to every pint of soup. The
addition of this small quantity of sugar,
too small to be perceived by the taste, is
one of the secrets of fine cooking. But
the moment a sugary taste can be per-
ceived, the cooking ceases to be "fine."

Sour apples, if cooked very slowly, and
for a long time, will develop sweetness
through the chemical action of the heat
and the acid. This is another of the
little secrets of cooking any fruit, fresh
or dry. The prolonged application of a
low temperature will actually develop
sugar in the fruit, and the longer you cook
it at a low temperature the sweeter will
the apple sauce be, or the baked apple, or
the stewed prunes. We demonstrate
this in cooking schools by dividing an
apple into two parts, cooking one part
quickly, and the other part very, very
slowly and for ever and ever so long.
The difference is surprising.

ADVERTISEMENTS

■

Simple Desserts

with

Cocoanut

COCOANUT BLANC MANGE

A delicious and easily made dessert
served with lemon sauce.

COCOANUT PRUNE DELIGHT

Prunes, cocoanut, sugar, and flavoring
are all the ingredients necessary to make
this wholesome pudding.

• LEASING variety, delicious flavor,
and wholesome food value may
be added to many simple desserts by
the use of Dromedary Cocoanut.

Dromedary Cocoanut is fresh, moist,
and clean. It has the flavor of the fresh-
opened nut — and you have none of the
trouble of grating.

Use what you need from the "Ever-
Sealed" package, replace the cover —
and the remainder will keep fresh until
next time.

Every package contains Guarantee

Write for the latest Dromedary Cook Book.
It contains suggestions for many appetizing
desserts and other uses of Cocoanut, Dates and
Tapioca. Free upon request.

The HILLS BROTHERS Co.

Dept. 8, 375 Washington St. New York

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

535

AMERICAN COOKERY

Query No. 41 12. — "I followed the enclosed
recipe for Chicken Timbales carefully, but in
cooking it collected about two cups of water,
making the mold fall flat, and it looked bad when
turned out. Should double cream be used?

"Will>you please repeat the recipe for Rolled
Almond Wafers?"

How to Cook Timbales

In following the recipe you enclose,
or any recipe for timbales, note that the
mixture should be cooked exactly accord-
ing to directions, which in this case are:
"In small, well-buttered molds, standing
on many folds of paper, and surrounded
by boiling water." This means oven
poaching. The pan in which the tim-
bales stand should be filled with boiling
water and set into the oven, until the
timbales are firm to the touch in the
center, not a moment longer. We think
your trouble came from cooking the
recipe in a single large mold. At least
this is what we gather from your letter.
If cooked in a large mold, the cream
should have been first made into a white

Baby Midget

HOSE SUPPORTER

holds the socks securely and allows the little one
absolute freedom of action, so necessary to its
health, growth and comfort. The highly nickeled
parts of the "Baby Midget" have smooth,
rounded corners and edges and they do not come
in contact with the baby's skin.
Like the Velvet Grip Hose Supporters for
women, misses and children it is equipped
with the famous All-Rubber Oblong Button,
which prevents slipping and ruthless ripping.

Silk, 15 cents; Lisle, 10 cents

SOLD EVERYWHERE OR SENT POSTPAID
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON

sauce, by cooking with four tablespoon-
fuls of flour, blended to a smooth paste
with a little water, until thick. Then the
chopped chicken should have been added,
then the whites of the eggs.

For cooking, according to the directions,
in small individual molds, the unbeaten
egg-whites should have been very thor-
oughly mixed, first with the chopped
chicken, then this mixture with the
cream. You are in this case depending
on the egg-whites to do all the work of
stiffening; to do this they must be mixed
through the whole thing, and then cooked
barely enough to solidify. Any mixture
containing egg, and no flour, will "whey",
if cooked for a minute longer than neces-
sary, or if let stand after cooking.

No, thick cream need not have been
used, only medium. We hope you will
try this recipe again. These timbales
are exceedingly delicate, and success in
making them will be found simple enough.

Rolled Almond Wafers

Cream together one-half cup of butter
and one cup of powdered sugar. They
should form a perfectly smooth and
glossy paste. Add to this, drop by drop,
so as not to alter the texture, one-half a
cup of milk, and one teaspoonful of
vanilla extract. Gradually stir in two
cups of sifted pastry flour. Spread this
mixture with a broad-bladed spatula on
the greased inverted bottom of a large
tin cake pan, in a layer not more than
one-eighth an inch thick. Mark into sec-
tions three inches square, and bake in
moderate oven for five minutes, or until
a light brown. Quickly cut the squares
apart, and while still warm sprinkle with
fine-chopped almonds, and roll into tubes
one inch in diameter.

"There's talk of abolishing the nickel."
"That shows that as a people we have no
sentiment." "How so?" "Why, if we
had, we would keep it if only as a re-
minder of the good old days when we
could buy something with it." — Judge.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

536

ADVERTISEMENTS

Actual Size

of Puffed Wheat grains
is eight times normal
wheat - - all due to
ion.

Corn Puffs

Witching Foods

But Also Scientific

These bubble grains — flimsy, flaky,
toasted — ■ seem simply tidbits to enjoy.

They seem to breakfast what dessert is to
a dinner — a delightful garnish.

But that's a wrong impression.

Puffed grains were invented by Prof.
A. P. Anderson — ■ a scientific man. And
there's deep reason for them.

To Make Whole Wheat Digest

Take wheat, for instance — ■ a premier
grain. Nature stores minerals in the outer
coat, and other needed elements. Without
them children suffer.

Yet that outer coat, under usual methods,

goes largely undigested,

Prof. Anderson's method applies to
wheat an hour of fearful heat. Then the
grains are shot from guns. Thus 125
million steam explosions are caused in
every kernel. And every food cell is so
blasted that it easily digests.

Thus every atom feeds. This whole-
wheat food means whole-wheat nutriment.

So with Puffed Rice — so with Corn
Puffs. The food cells are all broker.
The result is airy, nut-like globules - —
fascinating foods. But also foods which
yield their precious elements.

Puffed Wheat Puffed Rice Corn Puffs

Also Puffed Rice Pancake Flour

Like Nut-Made Pancakes

Our food experts, after count-
ss tests, have made an ideal
incake mixture. And they mix

it ground Puffed Rice. The
suit is flaky pancakes and a

very nut-like taste. The finest
pancakes ever served are made
with Puffed Rice Pancake Flour.
Try it. The flour is self-raising,
so you simply add milk or water.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

537

AMERICAN COOKERY

Nothing Finer for

Cod Fish Cakes
Creamed Fish
Fish Chowder
Fish Hash
Fish Souffle

iurnham 8 Morri

Fish Flakes

Only the firm white meat of
choicest Cod and Haddock
—cooked and ready for in-
stant use. Direct from the
sea to you and immediately
obtainable at your grocer's.

"Good Eating," a book of recipes, will be
sent free upon request.

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO.

75 Water Street, Portland, Maine

Packing and specializing in State of Maine Food
Products only— the best of their kind — including
BVM Paris Sugar Corn, B 13 M Pork and
Beans, B& M Clam Chowder, B fcf M Clams

The Silver Lining \

Landscape, Signscape, Escape

They went together for a stroll,
And he possessed a poet's soul,
But hers had failed to reach the goal;

She had a normal mind.
"By yonder brook is mint," quoth he;
Some words upon a board, saw she,
And so^she murmured dreamily,

"The DOUBLE FLAVOR kind."

"Ah, see!" he cried, "that tender flower
That blooms to brighten this sweet hour!"
"Which kind? GOLD MEDAL on that tower,

Or PANCAKE here?" she said.
"And look at browsing kine!" said he.
She saw but wooden MALTED three,
And BULL of DURHAM pedigree.

Said she, "You've been misled."

At night, "O'er yonder bush," he cried,

"The moon keeps watch!" The shrub she spied

Was marked ANHEUSER. By its side,

A DOLLAR WATCH was kept.
'Twas thus upon that quiet scene,
Naught in his view would come between;
But she would let a RUSTLESS SCREEN

Her vision intercept.

He let his love for her decline,
And laid it at another shrine,
Where there was never any sign

Of aught but love, to vie.
And so his erstwhile love was free;
And all alone she strolled the lea,
But murmured on yet pensively,

"Ah! THERE'S A REASON why!"

— Blanche Elizabeth Wade,

Parliamentary

A Member of Parliament called another
an ass in the sacred precincts of the
House. Unparliamentary language being
forbidden, the offending M. P. had to
apologize and withdraw his statement.
He didn't like doing it. "I withdraw,"
he said very stiffly; "but I maintain
that the honorable member is out of
order." "How am I out of order?"
asked the other man heatedly. "Proba-
bly a veterinary surgeon could tell you,"
was the retort.

Forever and Ever

St. Peter looked with wonder at the two
rusty coppers which the passing soul had
dropped into his hand. "Why, my good
he asked, "what is this for?"

man

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

Turn One Socket into Two

Don't put up with single lights just because you
have single sockets. Enjoy the added convenience of
an extra lamp whenever and wherever you want it. The

RE Nl /AM IN

T W O - W A^T

gives any electric light socket two outlets.
Makes all your electrical appliances easier
to use. You need not bother to remove light
bulbs. And you can use light with appli-
ance if you wish. Millions in successful use.
Folder free on request.
Every Wired Home Needs Three or More

At Your Dealer's

^332

or, «isg each:

Made only by

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago New York San Francisco

Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Holder enables you to use any shade with your Two- Way Plug. Price 15 cents.

Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug screws into any electric socket without twisting the cord.

_-J

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

Clover-Leaf Dinner Rolls

" — And let rise in a place between 8o° and 90°.
Bake at 4X0°." , ...

That is the modern scientific way of reading
recipes. Not "let rise in a warm place," not
"bake in a 'slow,' 'moderate' or 'hot' oven" but
— the exact temperatures in unmistakable fig-
ures. Get the three Taylor Recipe Books and
see how it's done.

They'll show you the modern way — the cnet s
way — the only safe and sure way to cook. And
they'll save you no end of fuel waste.

Taylor Instrument Companies

Rochester, N. Y.

Oven

Thermometer, $1-75
Candy

Thermometer, l.SO
Sugar Meter, l.OO

The three for $4.25
Prices in Canada and
Far West proportion-
ately higher.

If your dealer can't
supply theTaylor Home
Setorwill not order for
you, mail $4.25 direct to
us with dealer's name
and it will be sent pre-
paid.

".H'i'i'i'w iu'wwmnw

DEERFOOT FARM
SAUSAGE

Made in the same old-fashioned
way. Only the tenderest, leanest
parts of the pig — chopped not too
fine — with spicy herbs to lend
piquant flavor — that's the genuine.

Flavor and quality
have made Deerfoot
Farm Sausage famous.
Be sure you get the
genuine.

We prize the name
Deerfoot too highly
ever to let it stand
for anything but the
best.

No other sausage has that distinctive
taste. And you may be sure that every-
thing that goes into the making of Deer-
root Farm Sausage is of the highest quality.

Sold in 1-pound links in parchment packages;

-i-pound boxes of sausage meat and 2 and

4 pound bags of sausage meat.

SOLD BY ALL GOOD DEALERS

DEERFOOT FARM, SOUTHBOROUGH, MASS.

"War tax," murmured the soul gloomily
as it passed through the heavenly gates.

— San Francisco Argonaut.

Infl

uence

The high-school teacher was giving a
review biography of John Milton. "His
life influenced a great many of his poems, "
she told the class, "and Milton had a
very unhappy life indeed. His first wife
and he were very unhappy." She talked
a few minutes and then asked, "Now
what poem did this unhappy marriage
cause him to write?"

"Paradise Lost," came back from one
of the listeners. — ■ Indianapolis News.

One of the Nantucket stories is about
Maria Mitchell, a native who became a
great astronomer. This famous woman
was once told by a man that he did not
think a woman was fitted for the irregular
hours which the night work in astronomy
necessitated. "Sir," Miss Mitchell re-
plied, "my mother had more night work
than astronomy will ever demand of any
woman; she brought up eight children."

"I guess we'll cut out that line of my
speech," said the Senator, "about my
being a public servant." "It is a good
old phrase." "Yes, but 'servant' has
an unpleasant sound as household rela-
tionships go just now."

— Washington Star.

Good, absent-minded Doctor Wilder
was greatly dependent upon his practical
wife. One morning Mrs. Wilder sent up
an announcement after he had entered
the pulpit with a footnote intended to be
private. "The Women's Missionary
Society," he read aloud, "will meet
Wednesday afternoon at three o'clock
sharp. Your necktie is crooked; please
straighten toward the right."

"What do you think of the two candi-
dates?" "Well, the more I think of it
the more pleased I am that only one of
them can be elected."

— - Michigan Gargoyle.

540

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

- ■■.,>.-: ~- °y. 'teg

ory

of tne urn Can

*<■■■■ ■^T^^fsr^^'A:

IF the tin can has been to
you a common thing
of commonplace service,
think that way of it no
longer. Think, of the tin
can for what it really is — a
wonder of the times. Think
of it as a monument to pa-
tient achievement in our
personal interests.

Once the tin can lay inert
in the Earth in its original
elements, awaiting the hand
of man that should bring
it forth.

What a tribute could be
written to what Earth holds
in trust for her people !
How she holds in one hand
the secret of fruit and vege-
table ! How she holds in
the other the no less won-
derful secret of the means
that shall carry her bounty

to any table — anywhere —
any time of the year.

Production of more than
Six Billion cans annually for
the canned food output of
America is significant of the
development of the tin can
industry, and of the canned
food industry, as well, which
makes all these millions
upon millions of cans neces-
sary. The imagination is
staggered by it. Expressed
in terms of tables supplied,
and of individuals served, it
is almost beyond belief.

The "tin" can is a steel
can, coated with tin. It is
a product of science, of
scientific research by hun-
dreds of specialists who have
studied every step of evolu-
tion beginning with analysis
of the steel itself.

For example, over a per-
iod of years, picked men
from the laboratories of four
great organizations united
in the common effort of
developing the tin con-
tainer. These were the lab-
oratories of steel manu-
facturers, tin plate manu-
facturers,can manufacturers,
and the National Canners
Association.

Special " heats" of steel were
experimented with, foods packed in
the cans produced from the steei,
and the results recorded with scien-
tific accuracy. The thickness of the
tin coating became a matter of scien-
tific determination. Methods of
sealing and imperviousness of joints
are subjects of closest scientific
scrutiny.

The tin can unquestionably is
the safest, most practicable and
scientific food container that human
skill and ingenuity have been able
to devise.

National Canners Association, Washington, D. C.

A nation-wide organization formed in 1907, consisting of producers of all varieties of
hermetically sealed canned foods which have been sterilized by heat. It neither pro-
duces, buys, nor sells. Its purpose is to assure, for the mutual benefit of the industry and
the public, the best canned foods that scientific knowledge and human skill can produce.

on \bur
CJable^ If

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

541

AMERICAN COOKERY

4— ikL

A tasty spread for biscuits,
bread, French toast and
other eats. Unequalled on

WAFFLES
PANCAKES
GRAPEFRUIT

— it has the real flavor
from the maple grove.
Makes fine r.akes, pud-
dings, rostings, etc. Try
it — now.

New England Maple Syrup Co.

WINTER HILL :: BOSTON, MASS.

Write for Uncle John's Recipes — Free

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMOVESCO.
Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 |oz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00
(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

The Joyous Turnover

Concluded from page 509

we more than often neglect them in our
home-cooking. Why? Because of a
mistaken idea that they are not easy to
make. But nothing is difficult if done in
the right way.

In making well-behaved turnovers,
that do not spill themselves to nothing
but sticky crust in the process of cooking,
there is one simple precaution to take:
pat the edges well together. In order to
do this thoroughly, wet the finger-tips
in cold water and with them moisten the
edge of one-half the round of pastry
dough, after it is cut to receive the filling.
Place the filling on this half, turn the
other half over to meet the moistened
edge and pat down with floured fingers.

The top of a pound coffee-tin is just
a good size for a turnover cutter, and the
upper half, of those to be baked, may be
decorated with tiny holes in fanciful
arrangement if so desired — eyes, nose
and mouth please the younger members of
the family, and be sure that the mouth
corners turn up so that they will be always
smiling.

And here is a quick pastry recipe,
which has proved faithful throughout
many turnover trials:

Pastry for Turnovers. — One heaping
cup of flour; one-half teaspoonful of
salt; one-half teaspoonful of baking-
powder; and eight level teaspoonfuls of
lard or compound for baked, or six for
fried, turnovers. Cut the shortening
into mixture of flour, salt and baking-
powder, until it lumps the size of small
peas throughout; add enough very cold
water to work to a stiff, dry dough;
roll to a thickness of one-eighth inch, and
cut into large rounds. In filling, exer-
cise the precaution noted above.

Dessert Turnovers. — ■ Add a touch of
"heartiness" to a fish or vegetable
dinner. They may be made of a rather
dry mince-meat, apple or cranberry
sauce, apple-butter, or left-over bits of
jelly or jam, and should be baked.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not}[accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

oJ Salad for Supper

Winter salads are a problem — Cox's Gelatine
simplifies it. Here is something new: —

A TUNA OR SALMON SALAD

1 envelope COX'S INSTANT POWDERED GELATINE

Va cup cold water 2 V2 cups boiling water

y* cup lemon juice I large can Tuna Fish or Salmon

Vi cup chopped pimentoes or olives

Soak Gelatine in cold water; add boiling water and when dissolved
add lemon juice and allow to cool, but not get cold. Pour layer into
wet mold; when set, add layer of fish seasoned to taste, a layer of
oKves; pour in enough Gelatine to set mixture — and so on in layers
until mold \i filled. Chill, serve on lettuce with dressing.

Unsweetened and unflavored, Cox's makes
no end of nourishing and attractive foods, easy
to prepare and dainty to serve.

Nourishing soups, tempting savories and salads,
delightful desserts are sure to succeed if Cox's
Gelatine is used.

Always have the little checkerboard box of
Cox's Gelatine on hand, and send now for a free
copy of the Cox Manual of Gelatine Cookery.

Instant Powdered

THE COX GELATINE COMPANY

Dept. D, 100 Hudson Street, New York

"Perfectly Delicious"

That's what a well-known cook said about
a fruit jelly made with Bee Brand Gelatine.
Besides preparing any number of sweet and-
savory jellies from Bee Brand Gelatine you
can make delicious blanc mange, frozen
custard, ice cream, sponges made with eggs
and a score of other delectable desserts.
You can also use it for soups, gravies and
jellied meats.

Brand

GELATINE

requires no cooking — is easily prepared —

makes exceedingly nutritious foods for

invalids and children.

Bee Brand Gelatine was selected by the

Professor of Domestic Science at Columbia

University as the very best in purity and

quality.

Order a supply from your grocer and keep

it on hand.

Every box contains a convenient little book

of famous old Maryland and Virginia

recipes.

McCORMICK&CO.,Baltimore,U.S.A.

Importers and Manufacturers

McCORMICKS

{Jee Brand

/\ Free Booklets containing
many interesting facts con-
cerning spices, teas and
flavoring extracts sent on
request. Our Bee-Brand
Manual of Cookery

Buy advertised Goods^ — ■ Do not accept substitutes

AMERICAN COOKERY

You stir a delicious "melt-in-

your-mouth" taste into your

cake when you use Price's

Vanilla. Just the pure juice

from the finest vanilla beans

and aged in wood — nothing

more, nothing less!

PRICE FLAVORING EXTRACT CO.
In Business 67 years Chicago, U. S. A.

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

OSBORN SYSTEM

j? AxM*el
FoodClalCe

8 Inches Square, 5 Inches High

Would you like to be the best cake

'maker in your club or town? I teach you to

make the most delicious Angel Food Cake,

and many other kinds. I will teach you to

make the same cakes that I make and

Sell for $3.00 a Loaf— Profit, $2.00

If you are a good cake maker, I'll make you

a better one. Mrs. Lita Hannah, Penna.,

says: "I have made nine different kinds of

\ cake by the Osborn System and they are

) wonderful. I made good cakes before but

y~~*^ they are so much better since I learned the

Osborn Cake Making System

My methods are original ; they never

fail. They are easy to learn. You make

a perfect cake the very firsttime. I have taught

thousandsof women tomake better cakes; lean

teach you. Write me today. ParticularsFREE.

MRS. GRACE OSBORN
Dept. L-2 Bav City, Michigan

Luncheon Turnovers. — ■ Will dress up,
use up, and eke out small portions of
meat. They may be made of chopped
fresh meat, seasoned with salt and pepper,
or of creamed meats, not too runny with
gravy, and may be baked or fried.
Serve them with boiled rice.

Do not cut vent-holes in the pastry
of turnovers which are to be fried, for
if any juice oozes into the fat, it will
retaliate by sputtering. Best results
come from frying in fat not over one-
eighth inch in depth in the bottom of
frying-pan. Keep, as nearly as possible,
at a uniform smoking, but not burning,
heat. When the turnovers are well
browned on both sides, handle them
quickly from the sizzling fat to dripping
paper, and they will not be greasy. If
an accumulation of burned flour is left
in frying-pan, after the first lot is done,
wipe clean — the fat will have been ab-
sorbed — with paper towel or other
kitchen paper, before adding fresh fat.

Cheese Turnovers. — Fill pastry with
grated or fine-cut American cheese,
sprinkled with salt, mustard, and a dash
of cayenne. Bake or fry.

Queen of Turnovers. — • Stiffen ordinary
fried-cake dough by working in a little
extra flour; cut as for pastry turnovers;
fill with gooseberry jam or currant jelly;
fry in deep fat.

Work and Save

In his comment on current events,
Richard Spillane in Commerce and Fi-
nance has the following to say concerning
the work of the women of America in
their organized campaign for thrift and
saving and against high prices:

"A wail is going up from the women
these days owing to the poor quality of
goods they get in the department stores
and specialty shops and the low grade of
workmanship.

"Stuff that ordinarily would not be
handled by high class, reputable estab-
lishments now is put on the counters, and j
a price is put on it that is little short of

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

544

ADVERTISEMENTS

Other DEL MONTE Prod-
ucts that you should know:

Peaches, Pears, Apricots,
Pineapple, Cherries, Ber*
ries, Plums, Asparagus,
Spinach, Tomatoes, Cat'
sup, Ba\ed Beans, Or'
ange Marmalade, Jellies,
Jams, Preserves and many
other food specialties

Like serving new
discoveries every day

When youre tired of the

same old things and long for

something hew, let Del

Monte Tomato Sauce add

its inviting touch to your

menu.

Made from red 'ripe toma-
toes, fresh peppers and pure
seasoning ingredients. Adds
Zest and fhvor to all kinds of
cooking. Unexcelled for use in
the preparation of meats, pouh
try, fish, fried oysters, fritters,
omelets, macaroni, rice, beans,
soups, salad dressings, cocktail
sauces, etc.

And this appetizing sauce is
so inexpensive — so easy to use.
Many housewives refuse to be
without it. Both in giving an
attractive flavor to the cheaper
cuts of meat and in putting new
charm into " left-over" dishes,
they find that it helps them to
cut down their household ex-
penses and serve better foods.

Keep a supply of Del Monte
Tomato Sauce on hand for every
cay use and send for our new
book, "Del Monte Tomato Sauce
Recipes" (Publication No. 689).
It describes more than a hundred
tempting uses for this product.
It is free.

Address Department R

CALIFORNIA PACKING CORPORATION

San Francisco, California

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

545

AMERICAN COOKERY

I'm Gleud

I HaveJtfapleinQ

I find it the most welcome little
bottle of flavoring whenever I
want a cake frosting, pudding
sauce, and many other dainties
that require the delicious
mapley taste we all like so well
and

MAPLEINE

*7Aq Go felon 7 favor

Makes Delicious Syrup Instantly £

2 cups sugar, 1 cup water and half teaspoonful of
Mapleine makes lpint of most excellent syrup.

And for corn syrup flavoring or for flavoring
the many cane syrups grocers sell, Mapleineis
remarkable.

Mapleine contains no maple sugar, syrup nor
sap, but produces a taste similar to
<:~^7{-yiQ Maple. Grocers sell Mapleine.

cjF/-\r< 2 oz. bottle 35c

x-^>. Canada 50c

4c stamp and trade mark
from Mapleine carton
will bring the Mapleine
Cook Book of 200 recipes,
including many desserts.

CRESCENT MFG. CO.

323 Occidental Ave.

Seattle, Wash.

SEVEN-CENT MEALS 2?J£.r$

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

robbery. Sales persons are just as con-
temptuous and supercilious in their treat-
ment of persons who are shocked over
the cheap,- poorly made articles put on
sale at outrageously high prices as if it
were a favor to permit a person to buy
anything these times at any price.

"The truth of the matter seems to be
that in most staple articles, either textiles
or furniture or anything else, there is
carelessness and profiteering, or worse,
all along the line. Labor is slipshod,
and manufacturers skimp in every pos-
sible way. The clothing people are
particular offenders. They may not be
responsible for the poorer quality of
cloths, but they are responsible for poor
workmanship on garments. They charge
the poor quality of cloths to the mill men,
and then excuse themselves for the poor
workmanship on garments by saying
labor is out of hand, and the employer
who protests against anything is in danger
of having a strike or a new demand for
increased pay, so they have to bear the
ills they meet and try to wait in patience
for time to adjust conditions.

"But, if you are a friend, the clothing
manufacturer will tell you in confidence
he is having a very profitable year, the
best, in fact, of his whole business career.
Honesty in manufacturing and mer-
chandising seems to be at a pronounced
discount, more of a discount than the
dollar is today.

"Here's Something Worth While. Four
hundred thousand women of Pennsyl-
vania, members of organizations affiliated
with the National Federation of Women's
Clubs, have pledged themselves to earnest
economy in household and other expenses
in the first three months of the new year.

Trad* Mark Beglstered.

>Q\Gluten Flour

^^ 40% GLUTEN *

Guaranteed to comply in all reapecta *o

standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FARWELL & RHINES

Watertown, N. Y.

Z*V

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

546

AD V UK 1 IbUMUlN 1 b

/%4. 4$u>pj 7h&e

Devoted to Home Betterment

FROM time to time I shall use this corner to talk to the thoughtful, progressive readers
of the American Cookery.

If you are interested in new ideas for serving more attractive and more economical salads
and desserts, you are invited to write me for suggestions. Naturally, we will talk about the
wonders of Knox Sparkling Gelatine, its endless uses and economy, many of which, perhaps,
you do not know.

For instance: By combining a can of salmon with a cupful of rice and a tablespoonful
of Knox Sparkling Gelatine — it has been my experience that the salmon will make twice as
many servings as when served alone. Try this delicious Salmon and Rice Loaf. You will
be delighted not only with its appetizing appearance, but with its economical features as well.

SALMON RICE LOAF

1 tablespoonful of Knox Sparkling Gelatine
J cupful of cold water
1 teaspoonful of salt
§ teaspoonful of pepper

1 can of salmon

1 cupful of cooked rice

| cupful of milk

1 tablespoonful of melted butter

Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve by adding the hot milk. Add the
seasonings, salmon, rice and butter. Pour into a wet mold and let stand until set. This
may be served cold on lettuce as a salad, or with a hot tomato sauce in place of meat at dinner.

Note: Any other fish or meat may be used in place of salmon.

KNOX

the "4-to-l" Gelatine

Did you know that experts call Knox the "4-to-l" Gelatine? That is because it goes
four times farther than ready-prepared packages, which serve only six people, compared to
twenty-four servings which you get from one package of Knox.

MRS. KNOX SPECIAL HOME SERVICE

If you would like to know how to have a greater variety of economical desserts and salads
for your home table, or know the secret of making left-overs into new and attractive dishes,
write me for my recipe books "Food Economy" and "Dainty. Desserts," which I will send you
free if you will tell me the name of your grocer.

Any domestic science teacher can have sufficient mmm^h^^mm*.
gelatine for her class, if she will write me on school
stationery, stating quantity and when needed.

"Whenever a recipe calls for Gelatine
— it means KNOX"

KNOX

SPARKLING

GElatiHl

CttARLtJ* &.*G&\* K^UCTtf^. CO a*<.

MRS. CHARLES B KNOX

KNOX GELATINE

107 Knox Avenue, Johnstown, N. Y.

Gelatin! I

KKCVtifl KT

CHARUS BJUtQXGUATWECamc.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

547

AMERICAN COOKERY

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grade piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for General Utility,
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessnesa. WRITE NOW
FOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET
AND DEALER'S NAME.

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.
504) lunard bldg. Llmagu, Hi.

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Recipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. ies Oliver st„ boston, mass.

SALAD SEC

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
lessjrecipes 15c. _ 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N. Y.

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

^—©Red Label

Spices

TheA.ColburnCo.,
Philadelphia.USA

Every woman is to keep a detailed account
of her daily expenses and study for every
reasonable reduction in expenditures.
Every woman will strive to conserve
food, fuel and clothes and eliminate waste
of material and goods and labor. Every
woman will keep track of every cent that
is saved. Every woman will invest every
dollar saved in Government Savings
Stamps paying 4.27 per cent interest and
report to her state and city chairmen as
to the saving.

" That's business. More power to those
good women, and all honor to them.

"If the men of the nation would follow
suit many of the ills from which we are
suffering would end.

"There is a specific for the woes of the
world. It is simple and known to all men
but few accept it.

"What is it? Simply this: Work and
Save. We do too little of each, and never
was this so true as today."

Commerce and Finance also makes the
following editorial comment:

"In a letter to Mrs. W. H. Winslow,
president of the Chicago Woman's Clubs,
Mrs. Cyrus H. McCormick asks the
women 'not to forget that there is still
an important responsibility upon them as
women to continue war-time conserva-
tion and exercise their influence and their
self-control to stem the tide of extrava-
gance and help to avert a national
crisis.' We hope this appeal will be
heeded. The women's clubs of the
United States exert a wide influence. If
they will use it to make economy the
fashion they will do a great service."

k Perfect Knife
for Grape Fruit

.No. 10. U. S. Patent 48236

THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. Sole Manufacturers WINSTED, CONN.

Established 1856

Trade Mark "EMPIRE" Registered U. S. Patent Office.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

548

ADVERTISEMENTS

•»— ^m~mmm*mmm

^lA*av*tt**^****************«**»*aW^

*'v*w^'w-*-rnWr

Jf yovL want the finest
flavors ~~ use SAUER'S

r SAUER uses only' the purest ingredients.
SAUER exercises the utmost care through-
-out the process of manufacture
SAUER properly ages both raw materials and
iinished product before putting on the market
S4UER5is one of the most completely equipped ,
modern and sunny plants of any food product
manufacturer in the United States.

32 Flavors

and

SAUER'S
FPU <TTC~ PUfMCH

The new temperance beverage and all-round flavor.
a refreshing drink when properly mixed with sugar

AND WATER. DELIGHTFUL IN FRUIT PUNCH, MILK AND EGG COMBI-
NATIONS, SHERBETS, ICES, rCE CREAM, PUDDINGS, CAKES- IN FACT
If J ANY DESSERT. TT IS THE ONE FLAVOR THAT CAN BE USED
FOR ALLPURPOSES. A 35* BOTTLE MAKES 40 GLASSES OF DELICIOUS
PUNCH.i

QUALITY HAS MADE SAVERS THE
LARGEST SELLfNG BRAND IN THE US.
QUALITY HAS WON FOR SALTER'S
SEVENTEEN HIGHEST AWARDS FOR

PURITY STRENGTH ^FINE FLAVOR

(OFFERED IN IX DIFFERENT SIZES TO .MEET THE NEEDS OF EVERYONE. FOR SALE BY
ALL OOOO GROCERS)

Ibe CFSAUER COMPANY r*

■#■ — *

CHMOXD. VA.

ESTABLISHED 1887

±uxMX*v*jc*s.*^.w..x*&l*l*i*»ooi ace n ■ ■ « if* q

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

549

AMERICAN COOKERY

Real-Fruit Desserts

With Fruit- Juice Flavors in Bottles

Jiffy-Jell brings you real-fruit
desserts, not a mere fruity flavor.

Each package contains a bottle
of liquid crushed fruit essence.

We crush the fruit, condense
the juice and seal it in this vial.
So you get the real fruit, rich in
earthy salts. And the fragrance
and the flavor are intact.

People need fruit daily. Here
they get it — get the real fruit
— at a trifling cost.

They get an abundance. We
use half a pineapple, for instance, to
flavor one Jiffy-Jell dessert. We crush
the fruit in Hawaii — ■ fruit too ripe to
ship. The whole dessert costs you
less than the fruit alone.

You get your choice of eight
delicious fruits. Jiffy-Jell comes
ready-sweetened and acidulated.
So you simply add boiling water,
as directed, then the fruit juice
from the vial, and let cool.

One package serves six people
in mold form, or twelve if you
whip the jell.

Compare this with the old-
style gelatine desserts. It will be
a revelation.

Then try Lime-fruit flavor to
make a tart, green salad jell.
Try Mint flavor in a mint jell to serve
with meats.

One trial will change your
whole conception of these healthful
dainties.

The New-Grade Quick
Gelatine Dessert

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

550

ADVERTISEMENTS

«i„^i.

'- ST S :,r

Dessert Molds Free

We supply dessert molds to Jiffy-
Jell users, so the desserts may look
attractive.

There are six individual dessert
molds in assorted styles. The six
will serve a full package of Jiffy-Jell.
This set in pure aluminum is valued
at 60 cents.

We also supply a Jiffy-Cup for
measuring. It holds exactly one-half
pint. Fill twice with water to dissolve
one package Jiffy-Jell.

T^This is also an exact cup as called
forAin many recipes. Ordinary cups
vary in size. Markings show the
fractions of a cup. You need it
every day.

Buy Jiffy-Jell from your grocer.

Send us the @ trade-marks in the
circle on the front of the package.

Send five trade-marks^and we will
send you the Set of Six Individual
Molds. Send us two trade-marks
and we will mail the Jiffy-Cup.

Get Jiffy-Jell now. Learn what it
means to you Try several flavors,
including Loganberry, Pineapple, Lime
and Mint. Then send us the circle
trade-marks for the molds.

We willjmail you with them a book
of other molds which we also supply
free. Some are pint dessert molds,
some are salad molds. See which you
want and get them.

Cut out the coupon now so you
won't forget.

Individual Dessert Molds

Six to the set in assorted styles
of aluminum.

MrJB

10 Flavors in Vials Each Package

Mint Raspberry Cherry

Loganberry Strawberry Lime
Pineapple Orange Lemon Coffee

Jiffy-Cup

For measuring. An aluminum

cup holding exactly Vi pint

or one cup.

I'lllllllllllUllllllllllllli nun imiilMiiiiiinililllllliliii mil 111 inn iiiiiiimiiiiii iiiiiiimmmniiM

i5530 MAIL IV

-marks from tl
of Jiffy-Jell packages. Send "me the molds I check.

Jiffy-Cup

[ Jiffy Dessert Co., Waukesha, Wis.

Enclosed find Qh trade-marks from the fronts

.Set of Six

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

551

AMERICAN COOKERY

Only 12,500 Rapids are included
in this Price Drive! Act Quick!

Writeme todayformy special low price. I have made these
offers before just as the department stores do. The big
difference is that when you buy from me you get absol-
utely the rock-bottom factory-to-kitchen price. Try my

Fireless
Cooker

for 30 Dayi at my risk.
Saves fuel, time, labor,
worry. Makes the cheaper
cuts of meat more tender
and delicious. Aluminum
lined, full set of hi^h grade
aluminum utensils with
each cooker. Try it in your
kitchenbefore you decide.
Send formybisr HomeSci-
ence Book FREE. Post
card will do. Address
Wm. Campbell, Pres.
The Wm. Campbell Co..
Dept.173 Detroit, Mich.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

For V

'Good Luc

Bake Muffins and#H

Bread Sticks in

Wvgner Muffin Pans

THE even heat-retaining quality of Wag-
ner Muffin Pans bakes muffins with a
crisp, golden brown crust and a whole-
some, light, evenly baked center.

Wagner Muffin Pans are made both in Cast
Iron and Cast Aluminum. They are most dur-
able. Come in many styles suited to the
different kinds of hot breads. Using the right
pan for each kind of dough improves the
muffins and gives pleasing variety to meals.
Ask your dealer or write us for free leaf-
let on Muffin Pans and muffin baking. We
will also send free booklet showing the
complete line of Wagner Cast Alumi-
num Kitchen Utensils.

s£3U»^ The Wagner Mfg. Co.

Box 91 Sidney, O.

The Graduate Housekeeper

Here is your opportunity — our new home-
study course for professional housekeepers will
teach you to become an expert in the selection
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and
food values, in marketing and household ac-
counts, in the management of the cleaning, laun-
dry work, mending, child care and training — in
all the manifold activities of the home. When
you graduate we place you in a satisfactory
position without charge. Some positions are
non-resident, others part-time, and some in
institutions.

The training is based on our Household Eng-
ineering course, with much of our Home Economics
and Lessons in Cooking courses required.
Usually the work can be completed and diploma
awarded in six months, though three years is
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting
and just what every housekeeper ought to have
for her own home.

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

Our reputation, and fifteen years of exper-
ience back this course. Your provisional
enrollment is invited, with no obligation or
expense to you.

American School of Home Economics,
503 W.^69th Street, Chicago.

Please enroll me, provisionally, for your new Graduate
Housekeepers' Course. Send the "Domestic Science
Library" in six volumes, de luxe edition, with first lessons
and full details. If satisfactory, I will send first pay-
ment of $5, five days after receiving the "Library" and
subsequent payments of $5 per month until a total of $25
is sent in full payment, — for instruction, diploma and
for all expenses. The "Library" becomes my property,
and all membership privileges are to be included for three
(3) years. If not suited I will return books, etc., in five
days, at your expense and will owe you nothing.

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information. x

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference)

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

552

ADVERTISEMENTS

When uou make cake-

Prepared {Tlot Setf-7lising)

The old, reliable product —
giving satisfaction for twenty-
four years — Swans Down can
be found at all best grocers.

Preferred by Housewives fbr24years

It isn't the recipe that makes the cake!

If it were, you wouldn't hear so much about costly
cake failures.

Flour is the foundation of all cake, and it takes a
special cake flour to make a cake right. Domestic
science experts all tell us this. Swans Down Cake
Flour is prepared especially for cake baking, and
makes lighter, whiter, finer, better cake — such as you
will be proud to make. The amount used in one
cake costs but a few cents, yet it has everything to
do with the success of the cake. Soft and^delicate
grained, its results are wonderful always!

swans Down

Send lOcentsfor
the helpful new
book "Cake Se-
crets" by Janet
McKenzie Hill.
Illustrated.

>;•

Swans Down
makes delicious
pastry and pie
crusts. Attrac-
tive desserts.
Study them in
"Cake Secrets."

Wax-Paper Wrapped

IGLEHEART BROTHERS

Established 1856

Dept. AC EVANSVILLE, INDIANA

Also manufacturers of Swans Down
Wheat Bran — Nature's laxative food

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

553

AMERICAN COOKERY

Wooden Dishes do not excessively
soak up and waste the food they
contain.

You can get out of a wooden dish practically all the food
that was put into it.

Containers made of soft and porous materials become
saturated with food stored in them. When you scrape them
you release particles of the materials from which they are
made. There is an expensive waste.

Scientific experiment has revealed the amount of food
wasted by absorption into the container.

If you are interested we will send you this laboratory data
free.

The Oval Wood Dish Company

Manufacturers of Riteshape Dishes
Eastern Office Western Office

110W. 40th St. 37 S. Wabash Ave.

New York City Chicago, 111.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

554

ADVERTISEMENTS

-,.o^

ctt^1" \>eet^"vt «0lLixe»

asSSSb

^ss^^-jsjss^ *

no*1*

For BAKING-DAY an</ EVERY DAY

OF COURSE you can have this healthful, delightfully
flavored regulative food whenever you want it — always
ready to serve, thoroughly cooked. But what a wholesome
full-flavored bran this is for your baking-day!

lMrai{

For bran gems and bran bread, for muffins — and a big
variety of wonderfully pleasing recipes — easy to prepare and
decidedly healthful. They're all on the big Kellogg "wax-tite"
package when you get it from your grocer.

You never tasted bran so good — so different! You're sure to
enjoy its healthful goodness. Be sure you get the original
Kellogg's Krumbled Bran, guaranteed by the signature of —

KELLOiGG TOASTED CORN FLAKE COMPANY

Battle Creek, Michigan and Toronto, Canada

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

555

AMERICAN COOKERY

Say Wilson's Certified Bacon
— and Get it

SELECTED for plump excellence of
texture, evenness of fat and lean,
smoothness of skin, these choicest pork
sides are especially trimmed, and given
our patient, exact curing and smoking.

The quality of the bacon is enhanced by
the appetizing, mildly-sweet flavor which
is thus imparted to it. Tell your dealer
you want Wilson's Certified Bacon; if he
hasn't it, ask him to get it for you, we
can stock him promptly.

LIKE all Wilson products, Wilson's
' Certified Bacon is selected, handled
and prepared with the same respect your
own mother shows toward anything she
prepared especially for you.

"Wilson's Meat Cookery" — Our authori-
tative book on the economical buying and
cooking of meats, mailed free on request.
Write us a postal for it. Address Wilson
& Co., Dept. 247, 41st Street and Ashland
Avenue, Chicago.

"JhiomoAX

SV/A/Z

WILSON & CO.

\y \y

you*, quata/ntee"

o%e \AjtJL&&v<u -&a£eJL ^yto{£cXSd -^trusr -ZqJ&&l>-

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

556

ADVERTISEMENTS

Science Guarantees Its Purity

In the handling of Carnation Milk strictest em-
phasis is placed upon cleanliness.

The fresh milk which is brought in each morning
is promptly evaporated and sterilized in hermetically
sealed containers. All receivers are glass-lined and
are scientifically sterilized daily.

This precaution insures the absolute purity of Carna-
tion Milk and has made its adoption general among
dietitians and food authorities.

Write for our cook book containing one hundred
tested recipes.

Carnation Milk Products Co., 258 Consumers Bldg., Chicago, III.

Carnation

". *7r*>

mtmiion.

Fr o

Contented Cows

Milk

Sold by Grocers
Everywhere

The label is white and red

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

557

AMERICAN COOKERY

IN TINS- 8 ^VARIETIES

8 Varieties

Kraft Rarebit

Chile Camembert

Swiss Roquefort

Pimento Limburger

OLDEN GOODNESS" for the guest! A
treat of sandwiches filled with Elkhorn
Cheese — the "meat-y" food in dainty form.

Elkhorn" Cheese in tins will keep indefinitely.
The Kraft process insures perfect purity, all the
way through — from the milking of inspected
herds to the final sealing in sterilized tins.

In the list you are sure to find exactly your
choice. From the golden creamy "Kraft" to
the silvery white Roquefort-American — there's
an Elkhorn for everybody; delicious,
wholesome and nourishing as meat at
a fraction of the cost.

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO.

NEW YORK CHICAGO

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

558

ADVERTISEMENTS

HOP

You can depend upon

Stickney & Poor's Extracts

For tasty cakes — puddings — frostings and other appetizing desserts, use Stickney & Poor's
pure Extracts. They are superior in quality and flavor, thus assuring you of best results on
"baking day." Your grocer can supply S. & P. Extracts in Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, Pineapple,
Raspberry, Strawberry, etc. besides a number of other popular and useful flavors. Ask him
about them — now. Then make up your mind to test them on your next baking day. Once
you know how good they are, you'll use no other kind.

Your co-operating servant,

MUSTARD POT.

Stickney «& Poor. Spice Company

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1920

Mustard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

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559

AMERICAN COOKERY

■

Purity

IT is not luck nor chance that makes every
cake of Ivory Soap so pure.

It is science, centered in the laboratories where
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IVORY SOAP

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'Til

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560

ADVERTISEMENTS

HOME BUILDERS!

In making your plans
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the Herri ck

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561

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV MARCH, 1920 No. 8

CONTENTS FOR MARCH

PAGE

MAKE YOUR NURSERY CHEERFUL. 111. . . Priscilla Porter 571

TOPSY-TURVY Ruth Fargo 576

THE YOUNGEST BRIDE AND THE HOUSEHOLD GOSPEL

Margery Fifield 581

APPROVING THE PUDDING,

OR A HUSBAND WHO COOKS Agnes L. Dean 584

KITCHEN MAGIC Marguerite E. Warner 585

FOR THE EASTER MENU Alice W. Fewell 588

EASTER DINNER F. L. T. 589

EDITORIALS 590

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone
engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers 593

MENUS FOR WEEK IN MARCH 601

MENUS FOR SPECIAL DAYS 602

FISH WE LIKE F. M. Christianson 603

THE BOY'S SCHOOL LUNCH BOX Hazel B. Stevens 604

YORKSHIRE DUCKS 606

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Head Cheese, A Baltic
Specialty — • Using the Trimming Fat — Post-Wartime Recipes —

Salted Almonds for Profit 607

SIX MEALS FOR SIX DOLLARS OR LESS. ...... H. W. S. 610

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 611

NEW BOOKS .618

THE SILVER LINING 622

fe^^ $1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year Jl5c A Copy {^

Foreign postage 40c additional]
^Entered at Boston post-office as second clats matter
Copyright, 1919, by

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Pleaie Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

562

ADVERTISEMENTS

Faust Chile Spaghetti Au Gratin

Cook 1-2 lb. epaghetti until
done. Put in baking dish.
Alt 2 tablespoons bacon
i<rea-e. pint tomatoes, table-
spoon Faust Chile Powder
and mix. Sprinkle with
urated cheese, and bake slow-
ly in oven until top is brown.

That indescribably "different taste" between a home-cooked meal
and a meal prepared by a famous chef is merely the difference in the
seasoning of things.

Knowing how to season is what makes a famous chef. He uses any
number of ingredients in almost every dish — and it is the combination
of all of them in the right proportions that produces that wonderfully
delicious "different taste."

FAUST CHILE POWDER

was originated by Henry Dietz, the chef of the historical,
world-famous Faust Cafe, and now Bevo Mill. It is a com-
bination of spices, herbs, seeds, paprika, chile pepper and
other seasonings. It's the seasoning you must use if you want
your dishes to rival those prepared by famous chefs, and it's
the seasoning you WILL use if you try it once. Use Faust
Chile Powder in all salad dressings, in all relishes, in stews,
soups, chile con carne, au gratin dishes, etc.

If your dealer hasn't it in stock now, send 20c to cover cost,
packing and postage of a can of Faust Chile Powder
and Recipe Book.

C. F. Blanke Tea and Coffee Co.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

Manufacturers of the world-famous Faust
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t\i\\ ILIVL^.^VIN V^WU1VJ^1\ i

INDEX FOR MARCH

Approving the Pudding

Boy's School Lunch Box, The

Easter Dinner

Editorials ....

Fish We Like

For the Easter Menu

Home Ideas and Economies .

Kitchen Magic

Make Your Nursery Cheerful

Menus ....

New Books . . .

Silver Lining, The

Six Meals for Six Dollars or Less

Topsy-Turvy

Yorkshire Ducks .

Youngest Bride and the Household Gospel, The

601

PAGE

584
604
589
590
603
588
607
585
571
602
618
622
610
576
606
581

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Apricots, Canned, Frozen. 111.

599

Beef, Round of, with Raisins .

595

Buns, Hot Cross ....

598

Butter, Green ....

596

Cheese, Green ....

595

Cheese, Scalloped. 111. .

596

Chicken, Cincinnati. 111.

597

Codfish, Baked and Stuffed. 111.

593

Crackers, Walnut ....

599

Custard, Frozen Fig. 111.

598

Dates, Creamed ....

600

Eggplant a l'Espagnole .

594

Eggs, Easter ....

594

Eggs, Snow, for Easter .

597

QUERI]

es a:

Books on Serving ....

. 614

Butter, How to Make at Home

. 612

Cake, Layer, To Keep Fresh .

614

Cheese, Head ....

. 611

Chocolate, Milk, To Coat Candy-

. 614

Desserts with Little Sugar

. 614

Exhibits for Cooking Class

. 614

Eggs, Vallombrosa

Fritters, Tomato .

Ham, Boiled, with Green Butter. 111.

Lamb, Shoulder of, Boned and Roasted.

Pie, Pineapple Custard

Pudding, Apple Macaroni

Pudding, Macaroon

Rolls, Shamrock. 111.

Salad, Apple-and-Onion .

Salad, Apple-and-Pimiento. 111.

Salad, Prince of Wales .

Soup, Cream of Corn

Veal, Roast au Jus. 111.

Frosting, Glossy, Boiled Chocolate
Orange Peels, What to do with
Pie. Butter Scotch
Pies, English Pork
Roll, Butter Scotch
Sauce, Chocolate .

594
593
596
111. 596
600
600
600
599
596
598
569
593
595

612
614
614
611
614
612

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

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564

ADVERTISEMENTS

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AMERICAN COOKERY

Seven Cook Books
That Should Be

In Every Home

The Boston Cooking School
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By Fannie Merritt Farmer

133 illustrations. 600 pages. $2.50 net

Cooking For Two

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

''Cooking for Two,' is exactly what it
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With 150 illustrations. $2.00 net

Table Service

By Lucy G. Allen

A CLEAR, concise and yet comprehensive
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Recommended by the American Library
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Fully Illustrated. $1.50 net

Kitchenette Cookery

By Anna Merritt East

HERE the culinary art is translated into
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Cakes, Pastry & Dessert Dishes

By Janet McKenzie Hill

Salads, Sandwiches and
Chafing Dish Dainties

By Janet McKenzie Hill

MORE than a hundred different varie-
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New Edition. Illustrated. $2.00 net

The Party Book

Invaluable to Every Hostess

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T contains a little of everything about
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ADVERTISEMENTS

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567

AMERICAN COOKERY

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Prince of Wales Salad

Fresh cooked or canned beans may
be used. For a pint, chop fine two slices
of leek or half a thin slice of Bermuda or
Spanish onion; add three tablespoonfuls
of oil, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika,
half a teaspoonful of salt, half a chili
pepper, chopped fine, and one tablespoon-
ful and a half of cider or red-wine vinegar.
Mix thoroughly and turn on to a plate.
Set slices of hard-cooked egg around the
beans and a tablespoonful of mayonnaise
on the top. A tablespoonful of fine-
chopped parsley improves the salad.
Dried parsley may be used, if fresh
parsley be not at hand.

SALAD OF CAXXED BEAN'S AND HARD-COOKED EGGS

merican

Cook

VOL. XXIV

ery

:\ [ARCH

Xo. 8

Make Your Nursery Cheerful

By Priscilla Porter

IF mothers wish their little ones to
grow into strong and he?, lthy men
and women, let. them look well to the
situation of the nursery. When possible
this room should be situated on the sunny
side of the house, where bright rays of
sunlight may enter and linger for at least
a portion of the day. Little children are
like young plants; they will grow slender
and frail if deprived of the life-giving
power of the sun. Whenever it can be
arranged, give the babies a sunbath each
day, but take care that it is not too long,
or the heat too intense.

Our ancestors, with their old-fashioned
ideas, thought the worst room in the
house quite good enough for their progeny
to play in. Their one idea was to have
this room as far removed from the center

of the house as possible, so that no noise
might disturb their own peaceful domains.
Old worn-out pieces of furniture were
considered the proper furnishings for
the room, as the children were so
destructive!

Fortunately for the twentieth century
child, these days of old-fashioned ideas
are past. The progress of the age has
allowed the miniature man to have for
his own a special room, one that is no
discredit to the home, and into which
casual guests can be shown.

From being the least desirable room in
the house, the nursery has become the
most carefully planned, where sunlight
vitalizes the air and kills germs. Ven-
tilation is absolutely necessary, and a
window should always be open, if only a

EQUIPMENT THE FEATURE OF THIS ROOM

571

572

AMERICAN COOKERY

crack, for fresh air prevents disease. A
ventilating board should be fitted across
the base of the window to prevent
draughts.

The furnishing of the nursery is an
interesting study. Small furniture, with
rounded corners, should always be used.
This furniture must be substantial, but
not massive. The table and chairs
should stand square on their feet, so that
the little occupant of the nursery cannot
pull them over on himself. The furniture
should be of light color, and the little
bedstead of white iron, or polished brass.
A small screen, of light texture and
dainty pattern, is an attractive ornament
in the room, and shades the baby's eyes
from the light, in time of sickness.

A tiny bureau, or chiffonnier, for the
baby's clothes, is an important adjunct
to the nursery's furnishings. As the
child grows older, he can be taught to
put his clothes away himself, in their

proper places, and the arranging of them
in the chiffonnier will be a constant
delight.

If possible, have a window seat,
cushioned in some soft, dainty fabrics,
where the youngster may sit and watch
the goings on in the busy world out-
side, when his playthings lose their
attractiveness.

The windows should be shaded with
simple muslin curtains, tied back with
ribbons. These curtains are very easily
kept fresh, and no amount of laundering
will make them look shabby, until they
are entirely worn out.

The floor should never be carpeted.
Let it be of soft wood, painted, or of
hard wood, stained, oiled or varnished.
The fewer rugs you have, the better, as
they are a perfect storehouse for dirt,
and require disinfecting at least once a
week. If a rug is desired, however, I
should recommend one made of flannel,

CHILD'S PLAYROOM IN THE ATTIC

MAKE THE NURSERY CHEERFUL

573

which can be easily washed. One and
one-half yards of eiderdown flannel, will
make a rug sufficiently large. Line it
with burlap, and be sure it is weighed
down at each corner with a piece of lead,
else baby rolling and kicking around, will
soon turn up the corners. Before lining
it, the ornamentation must be put on.
A cat, cut out of gray canton flannel,
running after a white bulldog, is sure to
please baby's fancy, as is a horse, donkey,
or cow. The animals may be sewed to
the rug with a button-hole stitch, and
the eyes and mouth worked in with a
few deft stitches. The rug completed
may not be highly artistic, but rest
assured it will give baby much pleasure.
The treatment of the walls of the
nursery is important. Tinted some deli-
cate shade, with a few interesting pictures
hung upon them, the effect is most
pleasing. Let your choice of the pictures
be trulv artistic, as babv's taste from
earliest infancy should be cultivated
along correct lines.

If you prefer the walls papered^ the
Kate Greenaway and March Ward stud-
ies of nursery patterns are delightful.
You can also buy pictures of children,
animals, birds, or flowers, gaily colored,
on good stout paper, which can be cut
out and pasted on the wall to suit the
fancy of the decorator. These can be
grouped into charming figures. One of
the best backgrounds for this sort of
grouping is grass cloth of natural tint.

A window box, filled with flowering
plants, is always pleasing, and adds the
needed touch of brightness. The plants
should be changed as soon as their
season of bloom is ended, and others
substituted. A child four years old,
and sometimes younger, enjoys planting
seeds and watching for the results.
Teach him to care for his plants, to water
them, and keep the pots tidy. Thus will
you instill into his mind the idea that
he has some work to do, giving to him an
interest in the daily routine of housework.
It is a great mistake to let children feel

LARGE AND ATTRACTIVE PLAYROOM

574

AMERICAN COOKERY

that they are not expected to do anything;
teach them, therefore, that every one, in
order to be happy, should have some work
to do, and that they, too. must perform
some small tasks that you will allot to them.

A large closet is a necessity in a child's
room. Here he keeps his garments,
neatly hung on hooks, and his toys care-
fully arranged on shelves. Here is pre-
sented another opportunity for training
the childish mind. When he is large
enough, teach him to put his things away
after he has finished playing with them,
thus are many steps saved for the tired
mother.

A sand-box is an endless source of
amusement to every little one. It can
be placed in one corner of the room and
baby, clad in rompers, will play there
for hours at a time. A blackboard with
colored crayons provides a place for
scribbling, which might otherwise deface
the walls. There is not a child but who
delights to draw, and here he can do as he
pleases.

It is a very simple matter to amuse a

child; anything that he can take apart
arouses his interest, and what boy does
not delight in harnessing and unhar-
nessing his horse; while to the girl a
doll means a precious treasure, for with
its many dresses she takes her first
lesson in dressmaking.

One of the most interesting nurseries
I have seen was located in the ell of the
house. A work bench extended across
one end of the room, fitted up with all
sorts of tools. What a delight to the
youngster who is just outgrowing his
nursery to turn to a place where he
can work out his own problems undis-
turbed. The floor is uncarpeted, the
walls left in the rough, so that there is
nothing to harm.

In a friend's house a scheme was
evolved that proved most successful.
The entire upper story of the house was
fitted up for her two girls. It was made
into one large room, one end of which was
curtained off and equipped with a whole
set of furniture. Two tiny bedsteads
stood side by side, painted white, as was

CHAMBER FURNITURE FOR THE NURSERY

MAKE THE NURSERY CHEERFUL

A PLACE FOR AMUSEMENT

the rest of the furniture. The walls
were hung with a dainty paper, showing
rose buds climbing in and out of a trellis
and a molding of green was at the top of
the room, thus carrying out the idea of a
bower. Shades and white muslin cur-
tains tied back with pink ribbons, made
the room look attractive.

The other end was devoted to a play-
room. A long settee, covered with cush-
ions of cretonne, was built on the end.
Two blackboards were hung at one side
and shelves put up for the housing of
playthings. There were dolls of every
description ranging from large to small,
dressed as ladies and servants, colored
baby dolls, alongside of white ones,
while animals stalked in and out with a
freedom that showed they were welcome.
The little mistresses of this happy domain
took the greatest delight in doing their
lessons on the blackboard surrounded by
their family of children.

Kindergarten gymnasiums have found
a place in many a twentieth century
nursery. Here the tiny youngsters are
taught under an instructor to use their
tiny dumb bells, Indian clubs and Health
lifts, great care being taken that they
do not overdo. The youthful muscles
are thus kept in play and scientifically
developed. The development of their
muscles brings them into manhood and
womanhood strong and healthy. Then,
too, a gymnasium outfit costs so little,
when you consider the good accomplished
by its use.

Remember that every detail of the
nursery is indelibly stamped upon the
youngster's mind, so make it cheerful,
bright and thus conducive to happiness.
The pleasure enjoyed in a bright and
sunnv nurserv will stay bv vour child
as long as he lives.

THIS ROOM IS UNIQUE

Topsy-Turvy

(CONCERNING A CERTAIN HELPER IN A CERTAIN HOME)

By Ruth Fargo

June 10, 1919

Dear Elizabeth:

Your letter to hand this morning.
Good. Verily it seemeth an age since a
sample of your chirography has found
this solitary suburb. But I forgive you
— did I ever do otherwise, chum of my
college days?

And I reply, instanter; so tell this
excellent friend-of-your-friend to seek me
in town. I'm not going to Agate Beach.
I've changed my mind. To be most
truthful, I don't want to go anywhere ■ —
without Robert. (Yes, deai. I'm dread-
fully foolish about that husband of
mine.)

And Elizabeth! Aunt Marian hinted
as much to him. Was he flattered ? Not
a bit of it. By some labyrinthine mental
process he considered himself arraigned,
and proceeded to be terribly provoked
with poor innocent me. It was really
funny. Men are so queer. After that,
it took a bit of diplomacy to plan this
vacation ■ — ■ the way I wanted it. But
I have accomplished my purpose, at
last. And, by-the-way, Aunt Emma has
begged for the twins, Olive and Oliver,
my treasures — bless their baby hearts!
— ■ so I'm sending them down to run wild
on the farm. If it was any place but
Aunt Emma's, I'd never let them go —
such babies. But with Auntie they are
perfectly safe — ■ and happy. Why, even
Aunt Emma's hired girl adores my twin
O's — she thinks two such youngsters
were never before born. And she's
wonderfully good to them. . . . Oh, me!
If / could only find a girl like my Aunt
Emma's Hattie. Do you know, Beth
dear, I haven't had dependable help
since Mollie's escapade — you know that
sorry story — and Mollie the best maid
that ever lived. I'll never have help as
good. I "feel it in my bones," as we

once said. But I'm going on a still
hunt this summer. There can't be
such a poignant need as mine and never
a maid to fill it.

Ataids may come and maids may go,
But I go on forever.

That is the way I had begun to feel
this spring. I was almost frantic — and
with four-year-old babies, twins at that,
one can't do everything. Then Robert's
Aunt Marian dropped in for a visit. . . .
I tell you, Beth, dear, Aunt Marian is a
master genius and most marvelous cook.
(She manages everything, me included.)
I believe she sensed conditions before
she fairly crossed my threshold; and she
rolled up her sleeves, figuratively and
literally, and pitched in. My terrible
housekeeping tangles smoothed out like
a handkerchief under a hot iron. . . .
Aunt Marian has been here two months.
Every morning I get up wishing she
would stay forever — but by night I
am glad she is going on the eighteenth.
Did you ever feel toward any one like
that — ■ or is it just me; am I so at
fault, I wonder? But Aunt Marian is
so managerial — Oh, hum! I wonder if
this mild antagonism is mutual. . . .

But I am not going to Agate Beach;
no, no. I'm staying at home instead.
And I've planned divers little trolley
trips for Robert and me. And evenings
together. We shall actually grow ac-
quainted once more. And live easy.
Just we two alone. ... I hear the
twins on the stairs. My fountain pen
has gone dry. I've unburdened my
woes, per precedent; so, dear girl, here's
a penciled good-by,

Your loving old-time chum,

Sheila Sherwood Hunt.
P. S. Don't forget to give my address
to your friend's friend. I shall be glad
to meet her; Mrs. Mary Caxton, I

576

TOPSY-TURVY

577

believe you said. She shall have the
freedom of the house, and all there is
in it, for the week she is to stay. But
I'm glad she wants quiet.

Sheila.
N. B. If you hear of a good maid, let
me know. S.

June 17, 1919

My dear Elizabeth:

What a letter! If you were any one
but you — But seeing you are you, I
read what you wrote — even twice.
And digested it. You administered a
bitter pill, but you made the coating
exceedingly sugary. Let me see; putting
aside the sugar, your letter says about
this:

I, Sheila Hunt, cannot keep a maid
because of many things; namely, and
to wit:

I assign to my maid an attic room,
small, cold and ugly. (Considering my
"artistic ability " and my "health ideas"
you think better might be expected of
me. . . . Hum!)

I want a maid to be an Aunt Emma-
Hired-Girl plus, and treat her like a
Chinese cook! (Hully gee! Pardon the
slang. But I've been told I was a model
young matron — I'm afraid you don't
realize, that, you, bold Elizabeth girl.
Besides, you have never kept house.)

I am patronizing, condescending —
(Well, well! A maid isn't exactly one's
bosom friend, dear heart.)

I demand long hours. I ask my maid
to "jog the cradle" on her off hours.
(Well, you forget, "Man's work ends with
set of sun; woman's work is never done."
How can I help it? . . . By the way, the
twins outgrew the cradle long ago.)

I object to my maid's friends being
entertained in my home. (Hum!)

I class my maid as a pariah. . . .
She is unutterably lonesome. . . .

Honestly, Elizabeth, that looks like a
formidable arraignment — "writ out" —
I'm really not so ogreish as you would
make it seem. . . . My dear, you don't
believe it yourself, so there! . . . But
I've taken your sugar-coated censure

like a good little girl. I even draw a
mighty breath of relief. And I accept
your atrocious conditions — all because
of your very last paragraph. (You
ought to see Robert's eyes twinkle. He
says you have discovered that maids are
human — and I must reform.) But if
you know of a maid who will come to me,
a maid who is better than Mollie ever
was, who makes the most delectable
bread and is perfectly adorable about
children, and . . . Oh, you need say
no more. You may criticize all you
please, providing you send on your
Miracle Maid.

Nothing else matters. Such a marvel
of a girl must be cheap at any price.
And you say she will come? On your
recommendation? (You mean you rec-
ommend me — after all you have
said? Oh, I forget; I have promised to
do better.) Yes, yes; send her. By
return mail, or parcel post. Do.
Lovingly yours,

Sheila.
P. S. The twins are leaving tomorrow —
how I shall miss them! Aunt Marian
is going out of her way to take them down
to the farm. Aunt Marian is really a
dear. ... S.

June 20, 1919

Elizabeth dear:

Yes, I'll be at the train, punctual as
clockwork. Do you think I'd take a
chance of missing your Miracle Maid?
Not I. . . . And her name is Lucy
Marsh — a good name. It creates a
favorable impression, yet,. "A rose by
any other name . . ." I'll wear a white
clove pink, and so will she. Your
suggestion.

Dear, I've been reflecting on your
"conditions." Lucy Marsh is to be one
of my family. I am to give her my little
blue bedroom, and not that awful attic
nook. Also, she is to take violin lessons
— I must manage my time so she can,
being she's a musical prodigy — of Prof.
Forest Faville. And in return, she —

Do you know, my dear, your plan

578

AMERICAN COOKERY

seems so whimsically unreal. Nobody
in Rosedale keeps a maid under any such
conditions. And yet — the ecstatic re-
lief at your promised " better-than-
Mollie maid" — ! But you can never
understand, you bachelor girl. Still,
these last days, the belated serious side
has been sinking in; my conscience
prickles. (Can I ever live up to your
conditions?) Your plan sounds so beau-
tiful, dear dreamer; but I ha' ma doots.
Nevertheless, having put my hand to the
plow I shall not turn back — not now.
It is summer. Half of Rosedale is out
on its vacation, a most excellent time to
experiment.

Yes, the 5.30 limited, Thursday. I'll
be there.

| With love,

Sheila.

June 26, 1919

Dear Elizabeth:

You received my telegram. Your
letter shows apprehension. It should.
Of course, I met her — and Mrs. James
Scott-Smith witnessed the meeting; and
I've had no chance to explain. (My
dear, if your husband was a rising young
attorney, and you were new, and wanted
to make a favorable impression, you
couldn't afford to have queer friends.)
You should have prepared me better.
Any one could have knocked me down
with a feather — I fear I handled the
situation badly. Really, I had rather
expected your prodigy to appear in some
out-of-date, up-country garb, which
wouldn't have been half as bad as the
atrociously crude copy of the latest
freak fashion that proved to be Lucy
Marsh! And to have her throw her
arms around my neck and kiss me! I
might have been a long-lost sister.
(Poor frightened child — I will be fair —
she evidently thought it was expected.)
But oh, my dear! My dear! Clothes
may not make the man, but they come
mighty near making the woman. And
Mrs. Scott-Smith right on hand! . . .

Oh, well; I managed to get Lucy Marsh

over to my home without meeting the
entire neighborhood ■ — quite. And,

thank goodness, she is at present a little
scared, and quite meek. Everything is
so new to her. Yet I think she will be
quick to learn. And I have overhauled
her wardrobe with vigor. I might have
made a mess of it — not the wardrobe,
but the situation — except for Mrs.
Caxton. . . . Oh, yes; she is here. I
had quite forgotten about her till she
telephoned. I could have cried. It was
such an inopportune time to have com-
pany — even the quiet kind. But I fell
in love with Mary Caxton in the first
half-hour of her stay, the dear, sweet,
old-fashioned lady ! And she understands
sewing — and girls. She has taken Lucy
under her wing, and is making for her
such pretty little garbs out of gingham
and "sich." Oh, but Mrs. Caxton is
easing up conditions mightily. Lucy's
really nice-looking, properly clad. . . .
There — I'm to meet Robert! We're
lunching together down town.

Hurriedly,

Sheila.

July 7, 1919

Dear Girl:

What a delightfully! prompt corres-
pondent you've come to be. Perhaps I
should add, thanks to your deep interest
in my maid. I have a suspicion your
secret sympathy is for Lucy Marsh, not
for me. Well, no matter. . . . No,
no; do not worry. I'm keeping "con-
ditions," per your outline; or, in truth
maybe, keeping at them. For a time I
was so exercised over Lucy's looks that
I quite forgot her lessons. But better
late than never — and, really, it isn't
so very late after all. It was Mrs.
Caxton, of course, who heard Lucy
fingering her violin — Lucy wouldn't
say anything about it herself, she seems
wonderfully shy. She hasn't presumed
on a single liberty since our first (dreadful)
public meeting. I suspect that kiss was
a species of hysteria. Hers was a long,
hot journey that day; and, I learned,

TOPSY-TURVY

579

she has never been ten miles from her
up-country home before. Think of it!
At eighteen!

Well, since I had promised you, we —
Mrs. Caxton, Lucy and I — made a trip
down to Prof. Faville's studio. Not for
one moment did I think he would take
her — you know his students are all
rather special. But, goodness me! — he
quite forgot the rest of us, once Lucy
began to play. " Wonderful touch ! Won-
derful touch!" he kept saying over and
over. . . . And so it is all arranged.
She is to take lessons twice a week. . . .

By the way, I am teaching Lucy to
cook. . . . Isn't it lucky I took that
Domestic Science course? . . . Oh, yes;
her bread is delicious. So is her fried
chicken, and her apple pies. But she
never heard of paprika, and she couldn't
scallop an oyster to save her soul. All
sorts of timbales, shrimp salad, tea dain-
ties, luncheon souffles, etc., are as Greek
verbs to her. We are living simple, I
assure you. And if I ever have need, I
am sure I can advertise as an exper-
ienced Domestic Science teacher, after
this experience with Lucy. But just
so she does not want to leave, as former
maids have, the minute I get her taught
— why, I won't mind the teaching. She
is proving quick, and quiet, two points
in her favor. . . . By the way, Mrs.
Caxton is still here. She's a love.
Under her supervision my maid's ter-
rible finery has vanished. Thanks be!

Yours gratefully,

Sheila Hunt.

July 28, 1919

Dear Elizabeth:

I'm writing just to prove I have
leisure hours. I'm almost convinced
that Lucy has the "knack,'' as Aunt
Marian would say. . . . Vacation is
proving a joy. Robert and I are doing
a score of small stunts we never had time
for before. We're interviewing the town.
I never dreamed that Rosedale possessed
such environmental delights. I'm hav-
ing ten times the fun I had last summer

vacation — at one-tenth the cost. No,
no; we are not nearing bankruptcy,
don't think it. But even a "rising"
young attorney isn't a millionaire. Our
set, in Rosedale, still count the cost. . . .
Oh, say; didn't you explain to Lucy that
she was to receive a "certain remunera-
tion?" A pay envelope, in fact? She is
so queer about money. Acts em-
barrassed, almost hurt, when I pay her.
I've compromised by giving her a check
book and depositing her small earnings
in the First National. Of course, I
expected to do more than merely see to
her music lessons. Are all the girls in
those up-country hills as naively refresh-
ing as your prodigy?

Lovingly,

Sheila.
P. S. I don't dream Robert is being
assassinated, and hysterically call up
the night operator this summer. . . .
Oh, yes, my dear; plenty of married
people are just that silly. S.

August 15, 1919

Dear Elizabeth:

You are going to "do a few islands and
take photographs?" Already half-
packed? You take my breath. What
sudden decision is this? . . . And you
leave Lucy under my espionage? Well!
. . . Yes, she's satisfactory, so far.
... I don't altogether understand her.
She worships at unknown altars. . . .
But — yes, she really is a wonderful
maid. I'm eternally thankful to you.
. . . Robert and I are going down to
Aunt Emma's next week. Robert has
ten days vacation. He and Uncle Ford
go fishing up the Trask. He says you
won't find anything grander than the
Trask anywhere. Not even in the
Islands. . . . I'm wild to see the twins
— precious little bumpkins! I'm singing
all over inside. How I have missed
them — in spite of our good times,
Robert and I together. . . . Mrs. Cax-
ton is gone. We are taking Lucy along
with us. . . . And you? Presumably
picture postals will be my future portion,

580

AMERICAN COOKERY

you busy lady! Good luck, and my love
go with you, dearest wanderer.

Sheila.
P. S. Lucy's been living up to the blue
room. Evidently environment counts.

Nov. 9, 1919
Dear Elizabeth:

My cards have been following you all
over The Islands? And why don't I
write a good fat letter? How are the
twins? And how about Lucy Marsh?
. . . Well, dear, I couldn't keep up with
youi chaotic address. . . . The twins
are developing an ear for music — how
they do love to hear Lucy practice!
They will stay with her evenings per-
fectly contented. It is such a relief —
leaves me free to accept invitations out
once more. Of course, I enjoy it; and
then we young wives of ambitious young
men ought to keep up the social end of
the game. So I've been thinking. . . .
Oh, yes; Lucy is proving to be all you
promised; she is a real comfort, and
blends so beautifully into the background,
is so devoted to the children, and so
obedient, that being "one of the family"
hasn't bothered at all. Perhaps you
gave her special instructions. Anyway,
she is the only maid I have ever had, I
am sure, who wouldn't have taken pos-
session of the place under those stipu-
lated conditions of yours. So do not
become conceited and imagine they
would work every time, my dear. When
I entertain she dons maid's regalia with
the enthusiasm of a charity-ball mas-
querader. She is full of comforting
surprises. But enough concerning my
" hired girl" — don't frown. . . . Tell
me about yourself. How the time goes —
from blossom-time till snow-time, and
your letter contains no hint of a home
coming. We miss you.

Lovingly,

Sheila.

Dear Elizabeth:

January 7, 1920

I am glad you are having such pleasant
days. Life runs in a bit of a rut here in
Rosedale. I have been going a good
bit — Lucy is so dependable — and really
gaining some social prestige. I know you
don't care for that sort of thing, dear
girl, but I enjoy the game. And it
. helps Robert. . . . Yes, Lucy is getting
on quite wonderfully well with her music,
so I understand. Prof. Faville gave her
an interesting part in a little musical
play presented by the people of his
studio. I helped her with her costume.
She really looked wonderfully well. . . .
You don't expect to come home till the
cherry blossoms are gone? Lucy is
always asking. She adores you. . . .

Lovingly,

S. S. H.

April 10, 1920

Dear Elizabeth:

Our letters have grown desultory.
You are a busy lady; so am I. But, last
week, I did write you the longest of
letters. It was replete with exclamation
points and wide-eyed wonder. But I
didn't mail it. My tardy intuition
tipped me the cue it might have done
months upon months ago. . . . You
dear, diplomatic schemer! I'm con-
vinced that you painstakingly planned
this thing that has come about — or a
similar subtlety. Perhaps just in big
generous outlines. Come, confess. And
let no one say a woman cannot keep a
secret. . . . Did my horoscope assure
you of my assistance, or did that first
letter last June just happen at the
psychological moment? However it may
be, I have played your unconscious
accomplice. . . . Oh, I am sure! I
know you of old — I know your castel-
lated schemes. And now I understand
your abnormal interest in little Lucy
Marsh. You recognized her possibilities
— and decided to give her a chance.
Come now, an I not right? How stupid
I have been! . . . But wait, I am telling
you, as fast as I can. I am really excited,
for I am losing my maid. She is to be

THE YOUNGEST BRIDE AND THE HOUSEHOLD GOSPEL

581

married — oh, soon. And to whom?
. . . No other than to Rosedale's most
exclusive intellectual lion, Prof. Faville.
. . . Oh, yes, he teaches music — a
fad. He can do as he pleases. He is one
of the lucky, born with a gold spoon in
his mouth. And talented besides. Why,
if he chooses to crook his little finger,
Rosedale follows suit. It is quite unex-
plainable. But it is so. He stands at
the top of the social ladder. And he is
to marry my maid! It is altogether a
love match — but it is altogether topsy-
turvy. Perfectly topsy-turvy! Robert
says such a thing couldn't "get across "
anywhere except in the good old U. S. A.
He grins at me over his coffee cup and
tells me to be "real good" and maybe
my "hired girl" will boost me into the
social set exclusive. . . . Isn't it funny?
. . . But Lucy will live her part. With
her tawny hair and quiet dignity — !
She is really wonderful. I realized that
night of the studio play, if I had just
once stopped to give it a second thought;

and I didn't give it a second thought
because in spite of all your stipulations
she is just my maid. But I have been
giving it a lot of second thoughts since
Prof. Forest Henry Faville . . . Heigh-
ho! What fools we mortals be! . . .
Think of my one-time maid graciously
dispensing favored hospitality! . . . being
mistress of that beautiful house on the
hill! Heigh-ho! . . . Meantime, we are
doing some interesting shopping, Lucy
and I, and — getting acquainted, after
so many months. ... I make a random
guess that you won't recognize your
up-country protegee the next time you see
her. . . . We shall look for you when
the cherry blossoms fall. . . .

Lovingly, thankfully, amusedly yours,
Sheila Sherwood Hunt.
P. S. You may recognize diamonds in
the rough; pray, admit that I can polish
them.

N. B. Come, we will go and call on
Mrs. Forest Henry Faville — my one-
time maid. Sheila.

The Youngest Bride and the Household

Gospel

By Margery Fifield

'ELL, we had cereal muffins
this morning, Aunt, made after
your recipe, and the Man of
the House proclaimed them a great
success," said the Youngest Bride, as
she and her neighbor Aunt were enjoy-
ing a cup of afternoon tea together in the
Bride's apartment one rainy afternoon.

"That's fine," her Aunt answered, "I
thought after I went home that you must
have thought me a tiresome old person
to burden you with that lecture."

"I should say not," retorted the Bride
emphatically, "and just to prove to
you that I stand aghast at your wisdom
I'm going to ask for some more. It's
the kind of gospel which goes well in
small doses."

The Youngest Bride's Aunt stirred
her tea reflectively and smiled. "What
is it? How to make potato roses or
carrot gold fish for the finger bowls?'1

"Nothing as pretentious as that —
those things will be about the thirty-
second! This time it's just bread —
plain ordinary bread. What shall I
do with it? Odds and ends of it accumu-
late so and I don't dare throw any away,
because I'm afraid that you will come
over and inspect my garbage pail."
She laughed merrily, thinking of the
morning when her Aunt found her slipping
some left over cereal into the waste pail.

"Don't I know how it accumulates?
But I do think that I can help you out
of your dilemma a little."

582

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Not bread pudding," groaned the
Bride in mock despair. "I expect some-
thing better of you than that, Aunt!"

"All right, then," her Aunt laughed,
"we'll sidetrack the bread pudding for
the moment, but you needn't stick up
your nose at it, Young Woman. You
wait!" she shook her head in warning.

"Oh, I might have known it. You're
such a wizard that I suppose you can
tell me how to make it taste like angel
food or something similar."

"To begin with," said the Aunt, set-
ting her tea cup carefully on the tea
cart, "one of the best ways I know for
utilizing left-over bread is to dry it and
crumb it."

"Mercy, what for?" exclaimed the
Bride.

"For scalloped and au gratin dishes.
Put the left-over slices on a pie plate in
a very slow oven, and let them dry out
thoroughly and brown. Then put them
through the meat-chopper. Then store
these nice, brown crumbs in a glass jar.
Whenever you are making dishes like
spaghetti and tomato, or macaroni and
cheese, or au gratin dishes, such as salmon
and tuna fish, and so on, sprinkle a few
of these crumbs, dotted with a bit of
butter, over the top and your dish will
come out of the oven crispy, brown and
delectable-looking. You'll find them
such a convenience, and so much easier
and more satisfactory than trying to
crumb up bread from a fresh loaf. I
try to keep my jar filled all the time,
because we are so fond of scalloped
dishes."

" I never should have thought of putting
them through the meat-grinder. Isn't
that a good idea? Would crumbs like
that do for Apple Brown Betty? The
cook book calls for bread crumbs."

"Of course, you might use them," her
Aunt answered, "but I shouldn't care
for it made that way because it would be
apt to be too dry. I'm glad you asked
me that though because Brown Betty
is an excellent way to use up dry bread.
A layer of sliced tart apples, a layer of

bread crumbs dotted with butter and
sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon until
your dish is full is my rule, with a very
little boiling water poured over just
before putting it into the oven. The
easiest way to crumb the bread is to take
two slices, cut moderately thick, and rub
them together over the dish in which you
are preparing the Betty. You will find
that they crumb nicely."

"I'm so glad to know that," said the
Bride, as she made notes industriously,
"we're so fond of apples and we have that
half-barrel they sent us from home.
What do you eat on this. I can't afford
cream."

"Mercy, who can! Hard sauce is the
nicest thing next to cream, if you can get
confectioner's sugar."

"Oh yes, and I know how to make that
too, but tell me something else. I'm
having such a time getting confectioner's
sugar."

"This is an old-fashioned sauce and
sounds very plain, but I assure you that
it's delicious, particularly on a dish of
steaming apple Betty on a cold wintry
night. Take a cup of molasses, three
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a small
piece of butter about the size of a large
walnut, as the old-fashioned cooks would
say. Let it all boil five minutes. You
have to watch this with care as the
molasses boils over easily, but you can
make this sauce while getting the rest
of the dinner and keep it hot in a double
boiler, if you don't want to have it on
your mind during dinner."

"You're a mine of information,
Auntie," said the Bride still writing
busily. " Do you suppose that I can sit up
and pass on all this information some day ? "

"Yes, and more too! Another nice
way to use up your bread, when it has
accumulated and your crumb jar is full,
is to make a bowl of dressing to season up
a dinner."

"Dressing?" asked the Bride with a
puzzled expression on her face. "But
you only use that for roast chicken and
similar things, don't you?"

THE YOUNGEST BRIDE AND THE HOUSEHOLD GOSPEL

583

"Just listen," admonished the dis-
penser of the Household Gospel. "Pour
about half a cup of boiling water and a
third of a cup of melted butter over two
cups of dried bread. When it has
softened sufficiently, mix smooth and
season it with salt, pepper, sage or poultry
dressing according to the tastes of your
household. This you can use in a
variety of ways and it adds much to a
meal sometimes. Try putting a round
of this dressing on pork chops and baking
them in the oven. I can promise that
you will like it for a change. Or spread
some of the mixture on a small piece of
flank steak, season it, roll it up and cook
it in a covered pan with a very little
boiling water. When I have been hard
pressed and have had little of anything
in the house, I have even been known to
make a luncheon dish by putting some
dressing in a small baking dish, laying
three or four strips of fat bacon over the
top and cooking it until the bacon was
crisp and well done and had flavored the
whole dish."

"I adore dressing," exclaimed the
Youngest Bride enthusiastically, "but
I never dreamed that I could use it in all
those interesting ways."

"You probably will think of many
others of your own. That's the fun in
cooking. There are so many fascinating
possibilities."

"I'm just beginning to realize it, Aunt.
You make it sound like a game."

" Now for the despised bread pudding ! "

The Bride made a face. "Hurry up
and get it over with, then!" she admon-
ished. "I know all about it anyway.
A pint of milk, a cup of bread crumbs or
so, an egg or two, some flavoring "

"But there are so many kinds of
glorified bread pudding. For instance,
try grating the rind of half a small
lemon into the pudding before baking.
This gives a delicious piquant flavor.
Raisins, too, add to it, and try, sometime,
saving out the whites of the eggs and after
the pudding is cool, whippingup the whites,
and adding two or three tablespoonfuls of

confectioner's sugar, lemon juice or
vanilla for flavoring. Pile this meringue
lightly on the pudding and set it in a
slow oven until it is light brown and set.
Just this little extra effort and time dresses
up a pudding wonderfully. Your good
husband would appreciate chocolate bread
pudding sometimes, too, I know. Melt
a square of chocolate and add it to the
milk before you pour it over the crumbs.
Of course, this takes a little more sugar
and if you can steal some top cream from
the morning bottle, this makes it doubly
nice. Scan the ice box well when making
bread pudding. Two or three left-over
prunes, a slice of canned pineapple, a
small dish of left-over peaches, or any-
thing in that line will change your
plebian pudding into a fruit souffle or
something equally attractive!"

"It is a game!" said the Bride.

"One easily learned, fortunately," re-
plied her Aunt.

"My head is so buzzing with ideas
that I can't wait to try them!"

"Perhaps it has enough for this after-
noon then, but I must tell you one or two
more things. Bread crumbs will give
body to an omelet," the Aunt went on,
"and will stretch it a little further. If
you are using four eggs, soak half a cup
of crumbs in the same amount of milk
until they are soft, then mix and cook
as you would any omelet. Also, when
stale bread is plenty, some bread griddle
cakes would go well on that new smoke-
less, greaseless griddle of yours. You might
take-down this recipe which is good.

^ cup bread-crumbs

\ cup milk

1 tablespoonful butter

1 egg]

j cup flour

i teaspoonful salt

2 teaspoonfuls baking powder

Soak the crumbs in the milk and butter
until soft; add egg well beaten, then dry
ingredients and cook as other griddle
cakes. This isn't a large recipe, but it
will make plenty for you two. You could
double it if you had guests. But gracious,
look at the time! Where has the after-
noon gone to? I must skip along if we
are to have any dinner at our house,"

584

AMERICAN COOKERY

she said, gathering up her sewing things.
"I hope you know how much I appre-
ciate all this," sighed the Bride grate-
fully, as she laid down her pencil.

"You'll be telling it all to some one
else some day, and more too," the Aunt
laughed as she flew hurriedly out of the
Bride's apartment.

Approving the Pudding

A Husband Who Cooks
By Agnes L. Dean

EVERY wife modifies her pride in
her man's cookery by too closely
scrutinizing the masculinities of
his technique. The proof of the pudding
is in the eating, and not in a burntishness
in the atmosphere, or in a gliddery place
on the pantry floor. Kitchen instincts
are race-old in women; in men the art-
impulse working among foodstuffs is not
yet automatic. But all the more reason
to give it a chance, a big, glorious,
blundering chance, and see what comes
of it. A Sunday and holiday husband-
chef should be allowed a certain latitude
with the butter. And never, never
should he be distracted from the business
in hand by mention of the open ice box
doors. With a loyal and unobtrusive
support the cooking male has a high
destiny, and the woman for whom he
performs his culinary miracles a beauti-
ful sinecure. But the wives I know
seize the possibilities of the situation
reluctantly.

For instance, it is held against my
friend, Jimmie Hale, that in his creative
moments he converts into a "swipe"
anything from a dish towel to one of
Millicent's dinner napkins. You know
how women feel about linen, but do you
understand what a sacred piece of it
looks like after it becomes an Oh-Jimmie
mop ? Yet for one of Jimmie's chicken pies
an ordinary man would rob a linen store.
Otis Lambert is the hugest and most
good-natured fellow on the street. He
does things like baked bananas and straw-

berry shortcake, and a whole line of
rather Woman's Exchangey dishes you
put whipped cream on. Splendid to
help out a meal with, but he does not
pretend to know how to cook the real
facts of food. Sarah Lambert does, and
what she says is, it is really impossible
to do it and keep sane, while walking
about on the granulated sugar Otis
manages to scatter on the floor. But
so long as there are brooms to be had —
and nerve tonics — I feel that Otis should
have his chance.

Now Tom Mason, two rented bunga-
lows below ours, is a sheer wonder with
an omelette — intuitive, strategic, debo-
nair, always charmed to do it again.
But Elizabeth Mason, his wife, seriously
objects to Tom's dissipating effect on
the vegetable knives. Elizabeth is a
tolerant woman, so she says, but, so she
says, five knives missing in four weeks!
A French knife, with a slim ebonized
handle that droops a little at the end,
and a thin pointed blade that sharpens
to a delicate edge, is to Tom's heart of
no greater importance than the apple
parings or kindlings with which he lets
it seek Nirvana. Knives like that, the
very best ones, used to have a griffin
rampant for the cutler's trade- mark,
do you remember? Tom practically
drained the market of them. But why
can not Elizabeth let bygones be by-
gones, and give Tom's genius scope?
Soon enough the egg, in omelette lots,
will be a bygone, too.

KITCHEN MAGIC

585

Mary Hunt married in Philip a super-
waffler. Just think, she can always
begin the Sabbath on real waffles, not
the sort you cut up and consume for the
cargo of "cane and maple," or to save
the feelings of a temperamental cook,
or because you hope the next round will
show better team work between the bat-
ter and the fire. But the true type,
rather hollow under the fork, evenly
brown, and crisp to the point of a beauti-
ful rustle; all alike, and as inexhausti-
ble as Philip's own pride in them. But
Mary tells my wife they eat, instead,
"You Ought to Like It" out of a gaudy
package. "For," says Mary, "my re-
ligion does not prosper upon cleaning
maple syrup off every drawer knob in
the kitchen before church time." At
which I bluster against the lack of per-
spective in women, and Henrietta paci-
fically says she prefers me and the bowls
to Philip and the knobs.

For I am a ten-bowl cook. That is
why I am not asked to cook oftener by
Henrietta, who incredibly insists on
washing up. Henrietta says no matter
what I cook, there are always ten bowls
to wash. This sounds like an innuendo,
but it is practically an inventory. I do
use them. The fault being, I maintain,
in my type of cooking rather than in my
method.

Cheese souffle, for instance, that the
crowd flatters from me Sunday nights.
Can any wife or any husband make a
replica of my chee.se souffle in one only
pie tin? Fellow chefs will support the

reasonableness of a bowl for whites, a
bowl for yolks, a bowl to mix these to-
gether in, a bowl (thinly disguised as a
casserole) in which the souffle happens,
and a bowl for the mushroom sauce.
Not so many bowls, really. But Hen-
rietta, whose genius is for census taking,
counts in a cup in which I mix flour and
butter, and the soup plate on which I
grate the cheese.

Asparagus with Hollandaise is another
accomplishment of mine, — ■ two bowls
and cheap at the price; flapjacks, —
three bowls; coffee, — one bowl: this is
my bargain counter, you see.

But if you are a connoisseur, follow
me and I will make you salads. These
are apt to bankrupt the bowl pantry,
and draw on the corner cupboard. For
bowls are necessary to wash the lettuce
in, to wash the celery in, to hold the
chilled tomatoes, to mash hard-boiled
eggs against. The serious work of salad
dressing, whether it be French, or Mayon-
naise, or Thousand Island, or what not,
can not be contracted for under three
bowls. All these preliminary bowls lead
up to the Great Bowl in which the crisp
and cunningly disposed . salad appears
upon the table. I serve from this bowl
into plates (I swear not into bowls) and
to you partaking in what I trust is rap-
ture, I disclaim any art. "Simplest
little thing you know!" And I shall
hope the tail of your eye does not ob-
serve Henrielta counting up on her
fingers. It dashes me considerably to
see her counting up.

Kitchen Magic

By Marguerite Edwards Werner

ACCORDING to most housewives,
Romance is taboo in kitchens.
I do not mean the ordinary
romance, of course, for many a love
affair flourishes, and many a honeymoon

beams in full view of the pots and pans, —
but I mean the sort of romance, which
inspires poets and painters, and sends
the mind a-gypsying down green lanes
of imagination to fairylands of delight.

586

AMERICAN COOKERY

Dear me! I almost believed that
Romance dodged kitchens myself until
the other day.

Out of the delightful bustle and
lightning-change atmosphere of a news-
paper office I followed my heart and my
husband into "woman's sphere" and my
own little kitchen.

Carefully I barricaded myself against
drudgery with electric equipment in
every form, with a network of wires and
a battery of push-buttons to ward off
the attacks of woman's ancient enemies,
overwork and monotony. All my life
I had listened to the wails of the sister-
hood of Martha, — -housewives "cum-
bered with much serving," tormented by
"everlasting three meals," "eternal dish-
washing," "endless dusting," and all
the horrors of deadly dailiness too
dreadful to be described except by sighs
and head-shakings.

I got the idea that some baneful in-
fluence lurked in kitchens, waiting to
jump out upon lighthearted, unsuspecting
brides, to crush their enthusiasm, smother
their imagination, destroy their spirit,
and slowly, wickedly remove the polish
and pinkness from their fingertips and
the joy of life from their hearts. Some
of the Marthas told me I never should
have time to read anything more exciting
than a cake recipe, — and that my mind,
trained, disciplined and exercised for the
amusement and instruction of the news-
reading public, would wither and die, — ■
dead! dead!! dead!!!

These good ladies insinuated that, once
one took an average mind into a kitchen,
it never got out again, but buzzed
around sadly, bumping itself into kettles
and brooms, getting its airy wings all
soaked and draggled in dish water,
gradually losing its power or desire to
visit flowers, gather honey, or do any-
thing but bumble and sting.

My! I'm glad they are wrong!

Almost I was persuaded there might be
something to these dark predictions, so
that after a month of honeymooning,
after my husband had gone to the office,

I used to half expect ghosts in my kitchen
and hardly dared open the oven door for
fear some imp would hop out to whisper,
"Boo! How bored you are!" or that
the demon in my chain dishcloth would
mutter, " Gurgle-glub ! you certainly see
what a messy, unpleasant job this is!"

Then one morning I discovered that
Romance will live in kitchens, and that
the magic carpet of delightful dreams
and free-ranging thoughts will, if need
be, park itself quite happily by the pantry
door, waiting the orders of the kitchen-
queen.

There was to be vegetable soup for
dinner and prosaic cabbage and onions,
and potatoes had to be set boiling in the
pot, with a bit of soup meat, salt, a blade
of mace, and a clove or two for flavor.

All the rest I assembled with my
work-a-day brain and fingers and then
Romance touched me with her magic
wand as I picked up my box of "imported
cloves from Zanzibar."

"Cloves from Zanzibar!" Quick to
the magic carpet! The white kitchen
walls fade away and in their place the
purple and green and foamy white waters
of the Pacific toss and roll around me,
and a warm, spice-scented wind runs out
to greet me from the golden curve of a
sand beach on the coast of Africa.

Zanzibar! No dull geographical
boundaries, no population estimates and
"principal products" rise to spoil my
vague dream-picture of that far-off ro-
mantic land — i but only a glimpse of a
tropic clearing, sun-drenched, circled
with thatched huts. Before the huts,
black, half-naked women spread the
clove harvest to dry on coarse grass mats,
laid in the sun. Cloves to me — those
little hard, shriveled things in my hand,
black and uninteresting, — but to the
women who gather and dry them for my
use they were delicate flower buds,
softly green-stemmed, with creamy white
petals folded into a tight little crown at
the top. Before the buds could unfold
and spend their spicy sweetness for the
allurement of humming bird and bee,

KITCHEN MAGIC

587

the quick dark fingers gathered them from
the swaying branches, despoiling their
flower-life, and setting the hot sunshine
to capture and imprison the aromatic
oil that brings a price.

Could the black women guess, as they
worked at their fragrant task, the long,
long journey, the wealth of adventures
that must come to their handful of
flower buds before they reached my
fingers ?

Centuries and centuries of civilization,
miles on miles of land and sea separate
the woman who harvested the spicy
buds from the woman who dreams over
them today. But though we are so many
worlds apart I know the dark woman's
fingers loved the sweet softness of the
little buds she gathered, that she sniffed
their perfume with the same pleasure I
know now, and that she would under-

stand in an instant why I desire their
piquant contribution to my soup pot —
to please my mate, of course!

Cloves from Zanzibar! For a few
cents, for a moment's dreaming, after
months of travel, by the labor of hundreds
of human hands, these dried flowers
bring me a swift picture of "lands beyond
the sea," a vision of tropic warmth and
color, a vague message from other women,
— -so different, so like me!

Mm-m! Sweet savors from my sim-
mering soup kettle bring me back to
earth and return my magic carpet to the
kitchen floor with a business-like thump.
Into the pot I drop my little black cloves,
one by one, and turn away to the duty
of setting the dinner table, not bored, or
tired, but with a sense of the fullness and
color of life — for have I not just re-
turned from a journey to Zanzibar?

A Balanced Menu

The following may be taken as a general guide in the preparation of a well-balanced menu for
an adult doing an average amount of physical or mental work:

Breakfast

(I)

Fruit

Cereal with Cream and Sugar

Eggs and Bacon

Bread with Butter

Tea, Coffee, Cocoa or Chocolate, or Water

Luncheon

(ID

Fresh Fish, Chicken, Quail or Grouse

One Starchy Vegetable

One Green Vegetable

Bread with Butter

Baked or Stewed Fruit, or a Salad

A Glass of Water

Dinner

(HI)

Soup

Fish or Meats

One Starchy Vegetable Two Green Vegetables

Celery or Salad Bread with Butter

Sweet Dessert A Glass of Water

Demi-tasse, if Desired

Honey, jam, marmalade, or other sweets, as well as olives, nuts, and toasted crackers and cream
cheese, may be added to any menu for persons in health.

From "Food for the Sick and the WeU" by M. J. Thompson.

For the Easter Menu

By Alice Urquhart Fewell

HERE is a unique arrangement of
Easter eggs, which is sure to make
a strong appeal to the kiddies, and fur-
nish at the same time an attractive dessert
for the Easter menu.

Eggs in a Nest

The little bird's nest, illustrated on
page 600, is made of molasses candy, and
filled with ice-cream eggs. To reproduce

be about two and a half or three inches
in diameter, and they may be purchased
at any seed store for a very small sum.
Place the flower pots on individual serv-
ing plates with a doilie underneath. Line
them with waxed paper, putting several
thicknesses at the bottom, and then fill
nearly full with ice cream. On top of the
ice cream sprinkle grated milk chocolate,
to give the appearance of earth, or
the nest, use any favorite molasses candy chocolate ice cream may be used instead.

recipe, and, when the candy has been
pulled, shape long strands round and round
to form the nest. Long, thin strands
of the candy may first be braided if
desired, and then shaped. Start at the
bottom of the nest with one end of the
candy strand, and wrap the strands
round and round one on top of the other
until the bottom is made. Build up the
sides of the nest in the same manner.
The nests should measure about three
and a half inches across, and one must be
provided for each person served. Place
the nests on individual serving plates on
a waxed paper doilie, and fill them with
ice-cream eggs. The eggs are made from
ice cream which has been frozen until
very hard, and they are scooped out from
the freezer with a large French potato
scoop. If two or more kinds of ice cream
are provided, each made a different
color, the eggs will be far more attractive,
as the nest will contain a variety of
colors.

Easter is always closely associated in
our minds with flowers, and this arrange-
ment of flowers and ice cream is especially
attractive.

Flowering Ice Cream

Select any desired flower, either fresh or
artificial, wrap the end of the stems with
waxed paper, and stick the flower, in the
ice cream as though it were growing in
the pot.

Mock Eggs on Toast

Bake sponge cake in a bread pan, and
when cold cut into slices about a quarter
of an inch thick. Place one slice of the
cake in the center of an individual serv-
ing plate, and on top of it put half of
a canned peach placed so that the rounded
outside portion is up. Around the peach
arrange whipped cream so that it will
have the appearance of the white part of
a poached tgg. The cake represents the
toast, the peach the yolk, and the whipped
cream the white, making a very realistic
"poached egg" to be served for dessert.

"Hard Boiled" Eggs J

Make a small opening in the end of a
raw tggy and shake out the contents
into a bowl. The shell remaining should
be intact, save for the small hole in the
end. An eggshell of this kind will be
necessary for each person to be served.
' One can begin to save these shells for a

week or so before they are to be used,
The cut, on page 600, illustrates theserv- taking the tgg from the inside for cooking
ing of ice cream in tiny flower pots, with a or the table. If the shells are to be kept,
garnishing of Easter flowers. For every they must be rinsed out with cold water
person served a small, new flower pot and stored in a cool place. Fill these
must be provided. These pots should eggshells with a Spanish cream mixture,

588

EASTER DINNER

589

or blanc mange or any gelatine dessert
may be substituted. Set the shells up
on end so that the mixture will not spill,
and allow them to remain in a cool place
until the dessert is firm. The shells may
be conveniently supported by placing
them in small gem-pans. When the
inside is hard, break and remove the
shell, and the dessert will be in the exact
shape of an egg. Place these "hard
boiled eggs" in a bowl, and serve with
whipped cream. Different colored eggs
are attractive, and this may be done by
coloring small portions of the dessert
mixture with vegetable coloring matter
before pouring into the shell.

Easter foretells the coming of spring

with its flowers and butterflies, and the
salad that follows will be found most
appropriate for this time of the year.

Butterfly Salad

Cut slices of canned pineapple in half,
and place the halves on lettuce leaves so
that thj two rounded portions come
together in the center, forming the wings
of a butterfly. Make the butterfly's
body from cream salad dressing, shaping
it in between the wings. To make the
spots on the wings use tiny pieces of
red and green pepper, candied cherries,
and any dried fruits that may be at
hand. The feelers are made from
shredded celery.

Midday Easter Dinner

EASTER Sunday, being the day it is,
affords specially good opportunity
for something distinctive in the midday
meal — the something different that
marks the outstanding days of the year
in their turn, and gives an interest that
can be afforded nowhere else. The
family altar around which our forefathers
gathered is nearest approached in our
day by the family board, the only place
where all come together, and so, the place
to be made as attractive as the house-
mother's means will allow.

After the Easter service the spirit is in
a state of attunedness for whatever may
offer in harmony with the meaning of the
day, and ever so little a thing, we have
found, will please in its suggestiveness.
In our house we always give thought for
something a little different from preced-
ing Easters; there must be, at least, one
dish or feature that will be in the nature
of a surprise.

This year the first thought is that the
table shall present only white and green;
a growing plant will form the centerpiece,
and we will use the white-and-green china.
The modest little menu planned can be
largely gotten ready the day before:

Creamed breast of chicken

Green peas in potato cups

Whole stuffed eggs

Plain olives — green pickles

White bread — butter

Pistachio jelly with sweetened cream

Silver cake

For the potato cups we cream the pota-
toes, then shape into round cakes with
the hand, using a small cup dipped in the
white of egg to make the depression into
which the peas are filled. Cooked in an
open vessel to preserve their greenness
the peas have been seasoned and drained,
and are ready to be put in as soon as the
cups are brought forth from the oven,
where they have been placed for a minute
or two to set. The filled cups are best
served in a chafing dish, where they can
be kept quite hot.

Our eggs we halve, lengthwise, and fit
and hold together with a small toothpick,
the large end flattened with a sharp knife
so that it stands upright. A ring of green
pepper, if it can be gotten the right size,
will hold the egg without the toothpick.
Or a stem of nasturtium — a leaf with a
long, pliable stem — can be utilized even
more effectively than the pepper ring, —
the stem wound round the egg and the
end caught in with the leaf. f. l. t.

590

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

BOSTON COOKING- SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Subscription $1.50 per Year,Single Copies 15c
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year

TO SUBSCRIBERS

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an
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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
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In sending notice to renew a subscription or
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In referring to an original entry, we must know
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Entered at BostonPost-office as Second-class Matter

The Ides of March

THE IDES OF MARCH — when gentle Spring
Stands o'er King Winter's icy bier;
Bold monarch, merciless, austere,
Relentless with his zero sting!

All nature gasped with his last fling —
King Winter long had learned to fear
THE IDES OF MARCH!

"Ah soon," Spring whispered, "Birds will sing,
And budding nature scatter cheer,
While rippling waters please the ear.
"All hail, thou harbinger of SPRING
THE IDES OF MARCH."

Caroline E. Sumner.

INCENTIVES TO WORK

SAD it is, but true, many people are
not inclined to work unless need of
the necessities of life compels them to
effort. Those who have lived in Mexico
report alike that the reason for the poor
condition of life there is simply that the
people are indisposed to work. Every-
thing is put off until tomorrow. The
climate and soil are so propitious but
little effort is called for to provide for the
physical wants of existence, and indolence

has become a national trait of the land.
In all parts of the earth there are masses
of people who are but little farther
advanced in civilization than the Mexican.
They are inclined to work only when the
actual needs of food and clothing and
shelter are pressing. Now, easy jobs and
a good time are not the only desirable
things to be had on earth. Honest toil
is not only wholesome, but also it is con-
ducive to genuine comfort and content-
ment in life. "In the sweat of thy face
shalt thou eat thy bread" is fraught with
meaning. In the absence of other incen-
tives to labor, the everyday needs of
existence may be a proper and necessary
urge to activity.

HIGHER PRICES

IN order to reduce the cost of living,
people must produce more and buy
less lavishly. Gradually the price, at
least, of the necessities of life, must be
reduced all along the line, including the
price of labor. After the armistice was
signed we began wrong and have pur-
sued a wrong course thenceforth. When
the leaders of organized labor took the
stand that whatever else be reduced in
cost, the price of labor should remain the
same, they assumed a stand that was
selfish, untenable and intolerable. As
a matter of fact, invariably as the price
of labor has advanced the amount of
production has diminished, and the cost
of goods has gone higher. Where is the
limit?

Of labor it is said, "it demands four
things — shorter hours, easier work, more
pay and lower prices. In view of the
first three, the fourth demand is utterly
impossible." We must produce more and
demand less.

A writer in The Saturday Evening
Post states the case as follows:

"We are tired of being good and have
started out to raise Cain. A year and
a half of war, work and sacrifice appears
to have been too much for us. Saving
is passe. Talk of thrift and efficiency
now bores us. As a nation we have:

EDITORIALS

591

always been the champion wasters of
the world, and we seem resolved to hold
fast to this title of being the leaders in
extravagance.

"Since the signing of the armistice
people appear to have gone mad in the
scramble to spend money. Dealers in
luxuries cannot get enough goods to
supply the demand. Folks who used to
buy an eight-dollar article now refuse
the same article that is today selling for
fourteen-dollars. They insist on having
a twenty-dollar article that used to be
twelve-dollars. Not only are they willing
to pay higher prices, but they also insist
on higher quality.

"Every one with a grain of intelligence
is aware that the situation of society
throughout the earth today is the same
as would have resulted from a monstrous
devastating fire. We came out of the war
with distraught nerves which seem to
have played havoc with our good sense.
We shed tears over the evils of our high-
cost-of-living problem, and on the same
day enter a request for shorter hours of
labor. During our recent troubles we
worked hard to win a victory; why
should we now refuse to work hard to pay
for the war? During the past twelve
months there have been in the neigh-
borhood of two thousand important
strikes and lockouts here in the United
States. Each and every one has cut down
production and helped to boost the cost
of commodities."

SCHOOL CAFETERIAS AID
AMERICANIZATION WORK

AMERICAN COOKERY not only
played an important part in the
winning of the war, but is following this
good work in assisting to subdue unrest
at home. Having done our part abroad
toward making the world safe for democ-
racy, attention is being turned to Ameri-
canization work within our national
household, and here again the food ques-
tion looms to the front. The good
citizen must be well fed, for it has ever

been observed that hunger, more than
anything else, is the cause of crime.
Perhaps not always hunger at the mo-
ment, but a lack of the necessities of life
has caused a feeling of embitterment
toward society.

Settlement workers have often di-
rected attention to the fact that the
children of poor and ignorant parents are
often under-nourished, not because of
any serious lack of food, but because of
a poor selection and indifferent prepara-
tion. This is particularly true of for-
eigners who have been compelled to
forego many of the dishes to which they
were accustomed in their old homes, and
to adopt new ones which they are not
skilled in preparing.

The Board of Education of Oakland,
Cal., has made extensive experiments in
Americanization work and has found
that school cafeterias have proven to^be
agencies of unusual efficiency in this line.
By serving a noon meal it has made
certain that children receive proper
nourishment, at least once a day. The
children are taught by object lesson the
proper kind of food to eat, as well as
American ideals in home life and manners
at the table. The cooking is done by
the classes in domestic science, many of
whose members come from foreign fami-
lies, and whose training is having a
beneficial effect in the home, as attested
by happy mothers.

In this city cafeterias have^been estab-
lished in three schools, where Americani-
zation work in all its branches is being
carried on extensively, owing to the
large attendance of children of foreign
extraction. With gentle firmness the
teacher in charge of the cafeteria explains
that a knife is made to cut with, but that
a fork is used in carrying food to the
mouth. This explanation does not have
to be made frequently, as the children
who have not had proper training are
quick to realize that a meal is much more
enjoyable when eaten in the proper
manner, and vie with each other to reach
the perfection of manners. The niceties

592

AMERICAN COOKERY

of deportment are taught in the realiza-
tion that every girl leaving the school
may some day be the mother of children,
and that she will surround them with the
environment which is their heritage.

Tables for the baby classes and kinder-
garten are placed between those of the
older girls. White table cloths with
bluebirds winging their way across them
are spread on the tables, and on each one
is a basket of flowers, the baskets being
woven in the school. No meal costs
more than ten cents, the dishes costing
from one to three cents, each. A meal
consists of soup, a meat or stew, a dessert
and milk or chocolate. The upper grade
cooking classes do the cooking, but they
do not have to wash the dishes, or do
such duties as peeling potatoes and other
vegetables, after having learned the
proper way of peeling them.

The children take great pride in keep-
ing the cafeterias clean, each school
desiring its own to be the model of the
city, with the result that each is a model
in itself. In one of the schools almost
three thousand meals were served during
the first fifteen weeks, most of the
children attending being the very ones it
was desired to reach.

The cafeterias are practically self-
supporting, and any extra funds required
for their upkeep are obtained by enter-
tainments and rummage sales. Members
of needy families often attend the rum-
mage sales and secure serviceable cloth-
ing for their children at a small cost.
The work of the school cafeterias is being
directed by a trained instructor, who was
engaged for the purpose. T. a. c.

EVER THE SAME PROBLEM

The welfare of individuals and races
is subject to their food supply, or the
manner in which they are fed. Plain,
wholesome dishes, prudent, economical
ways and means in housekeeping, then,
are the subjects least to be neglected.
And, it seems to us, the food question
is becoming daily of greater and more
fundamental significance than ever before.

Ruskin says somewhere: "First feed
people, then clothe and house people,
then please them with art," etc. Notice
how feeding is put first in importance.
And as time goes by and knowledge
comes, the problem of proper feeding
holds still first place in all matters of
economy and government throughout the
world — F. and C.

NOTES

WE are glad to state that in the past
few months subscribers to Ameri-
can Cookery have responded nobly, and
our list has grown steadily in numbers.
Now is the time your encouragement is
most highly appreciated. We are con-
fident our readers will not be disappointed
with the future issues of the magazine.
The prospects are good for better things.

We deem it safe and easy to mail
postage stamps, or a dollar bill and
twenty-five two-cent stamps, for a single
subscription to American Cookery. For
larger orders, perhaps, a money order is
the more convenient form to enclose
payment.

What with labor and transportation
troubles and the abnormal prices of all
things, the task of the publisher, of late,
has been hard indeed. The violent
snow storm the first week of February
set back the work of printing and mailing
one week. Notwithstanding, our plan
and purpose are to put American Cook-
ery into the mail before the first day of
each month.

'Tis Springtime

March winds are blowing o'er mountain and vale,

Flinging the snow drifts away,

Rivers run riot and laugh at the gale,

Skies are all sunless and gray;

Robins regretting their journey so long

From Southland, where blossoms were bright,

Seek shelter from storm forgetting their song,

While swift fall the shadows of night,

But out in the woodland the children have found

Sweet bloom on a low-trailing vine,

"Arbutus! 'Tis Springtime!" Their voices

resound
With joy, and Jtheir joy shall be mine.

Ruth Raymond.

FIG CUSTARD, FROZEN" (See Page 598)

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Cream of Corn Soup

Cook one-half an onion, fine-minced,
in four tablespoonfuls of butter until
onion is brown. Add four tablespoonfuls
of flour, two cups of milk, two teaspoon-
fuls of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of
pepper, and one or two bouillon cubes.
Stir over fire until the mixture boils and
thickens. Add one pint of sweet canned
corn, sifted through colander. Let the
whole boil up once, and serve with
croutons.

Tomato Fritters

Beat one egg; add one-half a cup of
water or stock, one-half a teaspoonful of
salt, one-quarter a teaspoonful of pepper,
and a tablespoonful of very fine-chopped
parsley. Add two cups of flour, sifted
with three teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
Beat the whole well together, then add
two or three fresh tomatoes, peeled and
cut in small pieces, or one cup and one-

half of canned tomatoes, and two heaping
tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Cook
by spoonfuls in butter or fat on a hot
pan, and serve with a tomato sauce as an
accompaniment to roast meat.

Baked-and-Stuffed Codfish

Remove from a fresh codfish the scales,
fins, head and tail. Open and clean or
wipe with damp cloth. Sprinkle the
inside with pepper, and fill with the
following stuffing:

Two cups of bread crumbs, squeezed
out of hot water or milk, and seasoned
with one-fourth a cup of melted butter,
one-fourth a cup of chopped mushrooms,
two tablespoonfuls of capers, one tea-
spoonful of Worcestershire or any other
piquant sauce.

When stuffing is inserted, tie fish up
firm, and bake in rather hot oven for
three-quarters of an hour, basting with
hot water and a little butter. Just
before removing from pan brush over

593

594

AMERICAN COOKERY

surface with melted butter, and sprinkle
with crumbs, which should be allowed to
brown before taking fish from oven.

Strain the liquid in the pan; add to it
the juice of one lemon, and pour around
fish on platter. Garnish with mashed
potatoes and sliced pickled beets.

Easter Eggs (Gelatine)

Save, for some time before Easter, as
many shells of raw eggs as you wish for,
by removing the contents through a hole,
about the size of a ten cent piece, in the
small end. Wash out the interior of each
shell with cold water, so that no trace of
albumen will adhere to the inside.

To make the Easter eggs prepare a pint
and one-half of milk-gelatine (this will

on a bit of paste.

When the jelly filling is solid, dip each
egg for a moment in very hot water to
dissolve a little coating of gelatine all
over the inside, and break away the
shell by chipping it off with the fingers.

Arrange the eggs, in contrasting colors,
in a china basket or other fancy dish.

Eggs Vallombrosa

Cook one-half an onion, shredded, in
two tablespoonfuls of butter, in an
agate pan until a deep yellow. Add one-
half a cup of rich cream, and six eggs,
previously hard-boiled and cut in halves
lengthwise. Mix with two eggs beaten
very stiff, two tablespoonfuls of parsley,
one-half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth

BAKED-AND-STUFFED CODFISH

fill a dozen shells), by following any
recipe for gelatine jelly, and substituting
milk for the liquid or mixture of liquids
used. The gelatine should not be acidu-
lated, and if it should seem to curdle on
the addition of the milk, this appearance
will disappear on solidifying. Divide
the milk-gelatine while still liquid into
three parts; add a couple of spoonfuls of
strawberry or other red-colored preserve
to one; to another, the grated rind of one
large orange; to the third, one teaspoon-
ful of almond extract. Fill the empty
egg-shells with the different colored gela-
tine, using a small paper funnel, and
stand each shell upright on its large end

a teaspoonful of pepper, one-half a cup
of fine, toasted bread crumbs, a grate of
nutmeg, and the juice of one-half a
lemon. Pour this mixture over the eggs
in the pan, cover, and cook until set.

Eggplant a l'Espagnole

Wash and pare a rather small egg-
plant, and cut in one-inch dice. Peel
four onions, four tomatoes, and cut in
slices. Chop two green peppers, pre-
viously parboiled and the insides re-
moved. Heat in an agate pan one-
fourth a cup of butter or fat, and in this
cook the sliced onions and peppers until
the onion is a pale yellow. Add sliced

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

595

tomatoes and diced eggplant, cover, and
simmer for twenty minutes or half an
hour over a very slow fire, keeping
closely covered. Add, at the last, two
tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed with one-
half a teaspoonful of salt; stir until the
whole is slightly creamy, and serve hot
in a covered dish.

Round of Beef with Raisins

Put into casserole one-fourth a cup of
butter or fat, and when melted add one
cup of the following mixture: Equal
parts of celery, carrots, onions, and ham,
chopped together. Cook until the vege-
tables are browned, then lay over them
four pounds of beef from the tougher end
of the round. Cover with a second cup
of the same mixture and cook in a hot
oven for three quarters of an hour.
Remove meat from casserole, strain off
vegetables; add a cup of stock to the
strained liquid, and return with the meat
to the casserole. Over the meat spread
one cup of seeded raisins. Cover, and
cook for one hour and one-fourth longer.
Serve from casserole.

St. Patricks Day Green Cheese

Take two ounces of fresh parsley, one
ounce of water cress, one ounce of celery.
Dry the parsley before the fire or in the
oven until it is crisp, and can be crumbled,
but not until it has lost its color. Chop
the cress and celery; add to the crumbled
parsley, and mix with four ounces of

ROAST VEAL, AU JUS

fresh cream cheese. Flavor with one-
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a small
speck of cayenne; pass the whole through
a colander, and form into wee cheeses to
pass with the salad. They may be kept
in the refrigerator until needed.

Roast Veal, au Jus

Season a filet of veal with salt and
pepper and put in pan with an onion,
carrot, bay leaf, clove and piece of butter.
Put in a double roaster, place in oven,
bake, in moderate oven two and one-
half hours. Remove cover, baste every
five minutes for one-half hour. Remove
meat to platter. Put a little water in the
pan and let simmer for five minutes.
Strain and pour this gravy around roast.
(Do not thicken veal gravy.)

SHOULDER OF LAMB, BOXED AND ROASTED

596

AMERICAN COOKERY

Shoulder of Lamb, Boned
and Roasted

Have a shoulder of lamb boned and
rolled, ready for the oven. Set it on the
bottom of a roasting pan in a hot oven,
reducing the heat when the meat has
seared over. Arrange parboiled potatoes
and cooked rice around the edge of the
roasting pan and, when the meat is well
cooked, remove from baking pan to a
platter and surround with the rice and
potatoes. Garnish with heart-leaves of
lettuce.

Cold Boiled Ham with Green
Butter

Soak the ham over night. Put over
the fire in cold water, and bring quickly-

Green Butter

Cream half a cup of butter. Add the
sifted yolks of one or two eggs, a few
drops of anchovy essence, if wished,
and enough spinach puree to give the
tint desired.

Apple-and-Onion Salad

Wash, pare and core two sour apples
and cut them into dice. Wash one
medium-sized onion (not too strong in
flavor) and remove the outer skin.
Cut the onion into tiny pieces. Mix the
apple and onion together and add enough
mayonnaise dressing to make a creamy
mass. Arrange this on well-prepared
lettuce leaves. Decorate the top of the
salad with narrow strips of pimiento and

COLD BOILED HAM, WITH GREEN BUTTER

to the boiling-point. Let boil ten
minutes, then simmer about four hours,
or until tender. Cool partially in the
broth. Remove the skin and, when
thoroughly cold, cut the centre of the
ham in slices. Remove one slice, to
facilitate cutting the slices from the
bone below, then return the slice to its
place, and pipe with green butter, to
indicate the position of the slices. Dec-
orate the rest of the surface with piping
and small chillies. Surround with tri-
angles of aspic, ornamented in the same
way. Serve with bread-and-butter sand-
wiches and potato or green vegetable
salad.

with small lettuce leaves. A half walnut
may also be laid on each salad. Serve
with this salad crisped crackers.

Scalloped Cheese

\ teaspoonful salt
Few grains cayenne

pepper
2 cups milk

6 slices buttered bread
2 or 3 eggs

cup cut cheese

\ teaspoonful mustard

Butter the bread as for table use, then
cut the slices into small squares or into
cubes. Arrange half of them on the
bottom of a buttered baking dish, with
the buttered side down. Mix the season-
ings with the egg and beat well, then add
the milk. Sprinkle the cheese, cut into
small pieces, over the first layer of bread,

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

597

SCALLOPED CHEESE

then cover with the remaining bread,
with the buttered side up. Pour the egg
and milk mixture over the whole, pressing
it down with a silver fork. Let the dish
stand ten minutes, then bake it for
about forty-five minutes, until it is firm
and golden brown. Do not have the
oven too hot.

Cincinnati Chicken

Split lengthwise a pork tenderloin,
leaving the halves joined. Pound the
meat of each side until about a half-
inch thick. Spread with the following
stuffing: One cup of bread crumbs,
one-quarter a teaspoonful of salt, one-
eighth a teaspoonful of pepper, a slice
of onion, chopped, one teaspoonful, each,
of chopped parsley, pickles, capers, and
lemon juice, and a tablespoonful of
olives, peeled and chopped. Mix into
this one-fourth a cup of melted butter
and one beaten egg. Arrange the stuff-

ing so that it will heap in the center, and
sew or tie the edges of the meat together so
that it will resemble a plump, boned bird.
Bake, with careful basting, until well
browned.

Snow Eggs for Easter

Beat very stiff the whites of three eggs
with four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Drop
this mixture, by tablespoonfuls, into one
quart of milk heated to boiling point.
Allow to cook without permitting the
milk to boil, until the "eggs" are well
puffed up, when they will need to be
carefully turned over, to cook on the
other side. Lift out of milk, one by one,
on small skimmer as cooked, and arrange
in a shallow glass dish. Proceed thus
until all the egg-whites have been cooked
and piled in pyramid fashion on the dish.

Stir one-half a cup of granulated sugar
into four tablespoonfuls of flour until the
two are thoroughly well mixed; add this

CINCINNATI CHICKEN

598

AMERICAN COOKERY

to the remainder of the hot milk, and
cook as for white sauce. Lastly, stir
in the four egg-yolks, well beaten, and
flavor with a few drops of vanilla or any
preferred extract. Pour this custard
around the pyramid of egg-shaped balls,
and garnish with bits of angelica.

Apple-and-Pimiento Salad

Pare and cut three medium-sized
apples into small slices. Add one canned
pimiento cut in cubes. Mix with mayon-
naise dressing to moisten. Dispose the
material upon a bed of heart -leaves of
lettuce.

nished with heavy cream whipped stiff,
with the addition of one-half its volume
of rich strawberry preserve. One-half
pint of cream, and one-half a cup of pre-
serve should be enough to garnish twelve
glasses of the frozen custard.

If it is desired that this frozen dish
shall retain its stiffness for an extra long
time, or if it is to be served in molds,
one-half a package of gelatine, hydrated in
one-half a cup of cold water, and dissolved
over boiling water, added before the
custard is put into the freezer, will ensure
its retaining its stiffness and holding its
shape reasonably well.

APPLE-AND-PIMIENTO SALAD

Fig Frozen Custard

Soften one-fourth cup of butter suffi-
ciently to blend into it one-fourth a cup of
flour. Stir this into one quart of hot milk
in saucepan over fire, and cook until the
mixture is thick and smooth. Add one
cup of granulated sugar, and from three
to four well-beaten eggs, and stir rapidly
until mixture is creamy. Cool, and
freeze until mushy, then add one-half
a pound of dried figs, previously chopped
and steamed until soft. Continue freez-
ing until hard. Serve in glasses, gar-

Quick-Process Hot Cross Buns

Blend into one cup of warm milk one
compressed yeast cake; dissolve in the
mixture one-half a cup of sugar, add one
cup of flour, and let rise in a warm place
until double in bulk. Sift together two
cups, scant, of flour, one nutmeg, grated,
one teaspoonful of salt, and work into
this one-fourth a cup of butter. Add this
to sponge when well risen, and knead into
a soft dough with one-half a cup of cur-
rants, and, if desired, a few bits of citron.
Break off from the dough small pieces

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

599

about half the size of an egg, roll into
balls, place in baking pan, and flatten
into rounds one-half inch thick. (This
method saves waste in using a round
cutter.) Let rise in pan until very light,
score a cross on the top of each, brush
with a mixture of beaten egg and sugar,
or water and sugar, dust with granulated
sugar, and bake in hot oven

These can be made in three hours.

Walnut Crackers

Cream one-half a cup of butter; add
one-half a cup of granulated sugar, then
one beaten egg. Sift in gradually as
much flour as needed to make a very
stiff paste — it is possible to use three
cups or a little more. It should be as
stiff as a noodle paste. Knead into the
paste one cup of fine-chopped walnuts,
sprinkled with one-fourth a teaspoonful
of salt. Roll out thin, and cut into fancy
shapes or simple squares. These should
be baked in a rather slow oven for thirty
minutes.

Shamrock Rolls

Make a sponge of one cup of milk
(scalded and cooled), one yeast cake
(softened in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm
water), and one cup of flour. Set aside

SHAMROCK ROLL

until light (about one hour). Then add
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-fourth a cup of butter
and flour to knead. Knead thoroughly;
let rise until double in bulk, then shape
into balls about the size of an English
walnut. Put three of the balls into each
round muffin tin. When light bake in a
hot oven about twenty minutes.

Canned Apricots, Frozen

Remove the paper from a can of choice
apricots and pack the can in salt and
crushed ice, using equal measures of each.
Let stand about one hour and a half;
then with a can-opener cut around the
top of the can, about half an inch
below the edge, and take off the top of
the can; invert and remove the contents.
Surround with a pint of marshmallow
cream. In the time mentioned, the salt

CANNED APRICOTS, FROZEN

600

AMERICAN COOKERY

EGGS IN NEST (See Page 508^

and ice being proportioned as above, the
apricots will be frozen quite firm. If the
frozen can is to stand longer before being
served, cut down the quantity of salt.
The dish is at its best if not frozen too
hard.

Apple Macaroni Pudding

Core six large apples, and chop in
pieces without paring. Cook until soft
in water barely to cover, acidulated with
two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Re-
move from fire; add one cup of sugar, one
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and one
tablespoonful of candied lemon peel,
chopped fine.

Have ready one cup of macaroni,
cooked until soft. Add this to apples
in baking dish, and bake, covered, in hot
oven until apples begin to redden. Re-
move cover, and pile in meringue on top

FLOWERING ICE CREAM (See Page 508)

of the pudding, or cover with buttered
crumbs, or with fine-grated cheese. Let
surface brown, and serve while hot.

Creamed Dates

Boil one cup of sugar with one-third a
cup of water until it threads; it should
take about eight minutes. Beat stiff
the whites of two eggs, with one-eighth a
teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Prepare
one-half a pound of dates by removing
stones, and stuffing with blanched al-
monds. Put these into the hot syrup,
immediately add the beaten white of eggs,
and stir very rapidly until just creamy.
The last part of the operation may best
be done away from the fire. Serve as a
compote with whipped cream, or as a
garnish with tart, baked apples, custard,
or gelatine jelly.

Macaroon Pudding

Soak one dozen macaroons in one-
fourth a cup of currant jelly and two
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, dissolved
over hot water. Make a soft custard of
one pint of milk, one-fourth a cup of sugar,
the beaten yolks of two eggs and one
whole beaten egg. Flavor with almond
extract. Add to custard four more
macaroons, heated in oven until crisp,
then rolled into crumbs. Pour this
mixture into the serving dish; add the
macaroons soaked in currant jelly; pile
over them a meringue of the two left-
over whites of eggs, beaten stiff with two
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, deco-
rate with small cubes of any bright
colored jelly, and place in oven until
meringue is slightly browned on top.

Pineapple Custard Pie

Pare and chop one large pineapple, and
cook in its own juice until it boils. Make
a soft custard of two eggs, one cup of
milk, and one-half to one cup of sugar.
Stir into this one cup of rolled and
sifted bread crumbs; add the pineapple,
mix all together, and bake in pastry
shell. The pie may or may not be
garnished with meringue.

Weil-Balanced Menus for Week in March

Q
Z
O

Breakfast

Grapefruit

Calf's Liver and Bacon Creamed Potatoes

Lady Finger Rolls (Reheated)

Fried Mush (Wheatena)

Brown Sugar Syrup Coffee or Cocoa

Dinner

Tomato Soup, Croutons
Creamed Onions Cincinnati Chicken

Mashed Potato Rhubarb Sauce

Raspberry Sherbet Sponge Drops

Coffee

Luncheon

Potato Salad Smoked Herring

Toasted Crackers, Chocolate Whipped Cream

Tea

Breakfast

Orange Juice

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk

Poached Eggs on Toast

Rye Muffins

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Creamed Smoked Beef
Baked Potatoes
Pineapple Omelet
Tea

Dinner

Meat Pie, Vegetable Hash

Riced Potatoes

Caramel Bavarian Cream

Tea or Coffee

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Sliced Dates

Shirred Eggs, Corn Muffins

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Cream of Corn Soup

Hot Boston Brown Bread

Tomato Rarebit

Walnut Crackers

Tea

Dinner

Broiled Lamb Chops

Stringless Beans, Baked Potatoes

Mint Jelly, Cabbage Salad

Pineapple Custard Pie

Tea or Coffee

Breakfast

Salt Codfish Balls, Piccalilli

Spider Corn Cake

Philadelphia Butter Buns

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Spinach-and-Cheese Souffle, Cream Sauce

Rye Muffins

Warsaw Custard

Tea

Dinner

Round of Beef with Raisins

Tomato Fritters, Duchesse Potatoes

Eggplant a l'Espagnole

Cocoanut Custard Pie

Tea or Coffee

Breakfast

Gluten Grits, Thin Cream

BroiledJScrod, Hashed Brown Potatoes

Graham Muffins

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Flank of Veal-and-Potato Hash

Tomato Catsup

Pulled Bread

Rhubarb Pie

Cocoa

Dinner

Braised Beef with Vegetables

Spinach, Steamed Potatoes

Lettuce Salad

Cherry Pudding

Coffee

Breakfast

Pulled Figs, French Omelet, Grilled Potatoes

Parker House Rolls

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Hot Cheese Sandwiches

Succotash

Baking Powder Biscuit

Loganberry Jiffy Jell, Cookies

Tea

Dinner

Baked and Stuffed Codfish

Maitre d'Hotel Potatoes

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce

Cucumber Salad

Custard Renversee

Tea or Coffee

►— <
C

►

Breakfast

Broiled Ham

Potatoes Hashed in Milk

Popovers

Apple Sauce

Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Escaloped Fish

Cabbage-and-Beet Salad

Dry Toast, Rhubarb Sauce

Canned Peaches Macaroons

Tea

Dinner

Broiled Sirloin Steak
Creamed Onions

Potatoes Paprika
Buttered Carrots Endive Salad
Ice Cream Chocolate Sauce
Tea or Coffee

601

Menus for Special Occasions

LENTEN LUNCHEON

Oyster Cocktails

Cream of Asparagus Soup

Broiled Shad Roe, Sauce

French Fried Potatoes

Water Cress

Lobster Creole in Timbale Cases

Cheese Straws Olives

Black Coffee

TEA (ST. PATRICK'S DAY)

Tea Cocoa Bouillon

Sandwiches (Lettuce, Green Cheese, Lobster)

Olives Pimolas Fruit-and-Nut Salad

Shamrock Rolls

Pistachio Ice Cream Raspberry Sherbet

Mints Bonbons Nuts

EASTER DINNER

Cream of Lettuce Soup

Olives

Brook Trout, Fried, Sauce Tartare

Maitre d'Hotel Potatoes

Asparagus in Patties

Crown of Lamb, Mint Sauce

Bernhardt Potatoes Banana Fritters, Orange Sauce

Broiled Squabs

Cucumber-and-Tomato Salad

French Dressing

Cream Cheese Bar-le-Duc Currants

Pineapple Sherbet

Assorted Cakes

Candied Mint Leaves

Coffee

602

Fish We Like

By F. M. Christianson

THE foods eaten by man today digestibility of fish; for example, the

contain, at least, so much fat that fatty kinds require a longer time in the

they furnish one-half of the total energy stomach than the lean ones. And fish

provided by his food. that have been salted have had the fibres

There are two main purposes of food, of muscles hardened by the process of

viz., to provide heat, also energy, for the curing and are much less digestible than

growth and repair of the body. fresh fish.

All" food, as to its value, depends Fish is a stimulating food, too. And

upon the digestibility of its nutrients
and it is in this connection that I wish
to speak of fish. Not all kinds, but

that is important in these days of nerve-
racking living. On the days you serve
fish, serve cereals and vegetables to

just a few that we use more or less the provide the elements lacking in the fish,

year around in our family, the value of Great care needs to be used to serve

which I can speak of from experience. fish in order that it may retain its fine,

To begin with, there are oily fish and delicate flavor and be savory. Boiling

those that are not oily. And, naturally, is a method of cooking we never submit

the oily fish are the more nourishing, fish to, for the reason that it is so easy

though not quite so digestible.

Such fish as herring, trout, whitefish,
salmon, mackerel, etc., belong to the
first class, while halibut, cod, haddock,

to provide a dish, at once watery and
tasteless, which is neither palatable,
stimulating, nor nutritive.

I do not say much about canned

Herring

etc., are those without oil. By this we fish, since this we do not use to any great

do not mean that these fish have no oil extent, but salted, smoked, and dried

in their make-up, for they have, but fish we use a great deal and more often

their fat is stored up largely in their still fresh fish. In buying the latter

liver and this can be removed before I would caution never to buy fish unless

cooking, and so the fish is practically the eyes are bright and prominent, and

without fat. Hence, those with weak the flesh is firm to the touch,
stomachs can manage these varieties,
when they cannot use the fatty kinds.

Fish is more easily digested than meat, Fresh herring are unexcelled. One needs

and furnishes all the material needed by to live near their haunts to get them at

the body to make it healthy and strong, their best. Any one who has spent some

The reason that fish is more digestible time in Scotland will remember the

than meat is due to the fact that the picturesque fishwives, with their baskets

muscular fibres are so short and lie in of fresh herring and their cry of "Caller

flaky masses or bundles that separate Herrin'." The herring are a variety of

easily. white fish and are fine eating, not only

Of course, there is a difference in the fresh but when salted. A salad made of

603

604

AMERICAN COOKERY

the latter is a relish that fairly whips
up the appetite. The canned, kippered,
smoked and dried herring we use, and
find they are very good.

Haddock
This is a toothsome fish and is none the
less wholesome in its smoked form under
the name of finnan haddie.

Mackerel and Salmon
especially fresh, are of great value as food
and are delicate for eating.

Anchovies

In pre-war days these used to come to
us from far-away Norway. They were
put up well in small, wooden, sealed,
quart barrels.

They are not greasy like sardines and
are the tastiest little fish imaginable.

Halibut

A bit of well-cured and smoked halibut
is a delicious addition to the evening
meal. Cut the fish into thin slices,
across the grain, and serve with bread and
butter. If this fish is new to you try it.

Shell Fish

Oysters we use a great deal in their
season. We like them best either stewed
or scalloped. Be sure to have the stew
piping hot and serve in hot bowls, so
that the stew will remain hot while it
is being eaten.

To Bone Fish

Fileting or boning is quite a necessary
operation sometimes. Lift the fish with
the left hand and keep the knife on the

bone, slipping it along between the bone
and flesh. Most flat fish can be divided
down the middle of each side close to the
bone. Round fish need to be cut down
the back, the flesh laid open and the bones
removed.

Small children need to be cautioned
against getting fish bones into their
throats when eating fish.

It will be a safety measure, if you can
find some way to reward their care.
One family, I know, who have three small
children and who use much fresh fish,
have eliminated the fish-bone danger
most effectually. The father in serving
the fish removes as many of the bones as
he can find and then gives the youngsters
a cent a bone for each one they find in
their own portions. These youngsters
never swallow a bone!

To Carve

Use a wide silver fish-knife. Take
pains not to break the bundles of flakes.
Serve all short-grained fish by cutting
lengthwise.

Fish Stock

When preparing fish for the table, save
all bones, skin, trimmings and broken
bits to make soup-stock. Cover the
trimmings with plenty of water and let
simmer. Flavor with a sprig of parsley,
herbs, onions, celery, etc. Strain, season
with salt and pepper. Serve piping
hot in heated dishes.

If the consomme is thickened with a
little egg-yolk and cream, its food value
will be greatly increased and prove an
excellent spur to serve at the beginning
of the meal.

Digestion equals Disposition.

Indigestion equals Indisposition.

The Boy's School Lunch Box

By Hazel B. Stevens

AN apprenticeship of several years' boy, has taught me the surprising lesson
putting up lunches for girls, followed that the two processes are quite dis-
by two seasons of doing the same for a similar; what the girls like best in their

THE BOY'S SCHOOL LUNCH BOX

605

lunches, the boy turns up his nose at,
and vice-versa. To please a girl, all the
daintily concocted sandwiches that the
Household Pages suggest are in order.
But the boy's comment on the same is
apt to be: — "Don't put up any more of
those salad dressin' messes for me: "

A girl likes a paper thin morsel of a
sandwich that a boy could "roll up and
put in his eye tooth." A boy likes a
sandwich big enough to "feel his teeth
in it." — Not so thick, perhaps, as to
distort his mouth, when he tries to
compass it in public, but of a good,
comfortable thickness, nevertheless.

A boy's lunch need not be much
"fussed up" to please him. Yet, though
boys are not, as a rule, so "finicky"
about little matters as girls, they like
their food, and ought to be trained to
like it, arranged to be attractive to the
eye. I have no reason to believe that a
boy, any more than a girl, would like
his lunch jumbled all up into one mixture
of flavors — so I use as much oiled paper
in wrapping kinds of food, separately, in
the one lunch as in the other.

Experiment with amounts has taught
me that, for a vigorous boy of sixteen,
six slices of bread, cut a third of an inch
thick, made into four meat, or non-
sweet-sandwiches and two sweet sand-
wiches, supplemented by a cup-cake, or
two cookies, a few nuts, an apple, or
orange, or banana, will bring forth no
complaints of under-supply, and cause
no waste.

My suggestions are for the boy who
"keeps in training" for athletics during
most of the year. For the benefit of the
mothers who may know, vaguely but
not definitely, what those rules are with
regard to food, let me note that the
lunch should be sparse in fats and heavy
sweets. This does not mean no butter,
but light-handed on the butter; pie
crust in any form absolutely is "taboo."
There may be light-sweetened cakes or
cookies, if not too "short," and jam or
jelly in sandwiches; but no rich cake,
and no candy.

We have a rule that lunches must not
be wasted. If there is too much or too
little, or if something is not relished,
objection is to be registered at home, so
that the change can be made at once.
This rule is the opposite, for reasons that
are obvious, to our ordinary family
rule as to attitude toward food at table:
which is, "If you don't like it, leave it
alone and say nothing."

The boy who is my "customer" has
two formulas to express his opinion,
which are succinct and to the point, if
not grammatical. The first is, — "Nix
on" the pie crust, or the salad dressin',
or whatever it may be he objects to; and
the second is, "Say, that honey sandwich
'Goes Good.'"

By eliminating gradually what I am
told to "Nix on" and specializing on
what "Goes Good" I have graduated
from apprenticeship, and arrived at the
stage where continued approving silence
puts the mark of success upon my efforts!

As to what kind of sandwiches to put
up, — and that is always the problem of
the lunch basket, — my suggestions point
particularly to the kinds that can be
made from materials on hand as the
natural side issues of meals. Of course,
one can always buy tinned meats at an
emergency, but to do so habitually is
the more expensive way, not always the
most convenient and not the most
wholesome. One learns, with practice,
to have a quick eye for the possibilities
of a left-over, in a sandwich, — remember-
ing that the product must look appetizing,
and not suggest either a "left-over" or
a "hunk of bread-and-something." Any
sandwich to be good must be distinctively
flavored; must have the filling, whatever
it is, spread evenly and in sufficient
quantity; and must have the slices
pressed firmly enough together before
the whole is cut into the sizes desired, so
that the article when completed is a
unit.

The kind a boy likes best is a plain
meat sandwich; he will not complain of
repetition, though you use slices from the

606

AMERICAN COOKERY

same cold roast for the whole week, — ■
especially if you introduce a little varia-
tion of seasoning by use of chili sauce,
catsup, Worcester sauce, or pickle. Fail-
ing the cold roast, any left-over meat that
slices neatly meets with approval, — a
bit of steak, pot roast, corn beef, chipped
beef, ham, bologna. Other meat may
be ground and mixed with a little chopped
pickle and mustard for filling. Even
cold hash may be thus treated. It
doesn't sound good, but my "customer"
assures me it "Goes Good!" And bits
of fish may be minced up with a little
cream, or gravy, or tomato sauce, —
enough to make it easy to spread.

Another non-sweet sandwich that is
a stand-by is made of thin-sliced cheese;
or one of the soft kind of cheeses, as
pimiento or cottage. A pleasing varia-
tion is made by combining a layer of
thin-sliced, sweet pickle with the cheese;
and another, by spreading the cheese
light with French mustard.

Baked beans, crushed to a paste and
combined with chopped mustard pickle,
make a successful filling.

Nut sandwiches are popular. Use of

the nuts alone, with just a sprinkle of
salt, will be found more acceptable than
mixtures. A paper bag of the shelled
nuts, pecans or walnuts, is easily kept
on hand.

An occasional "green" sandwich will
"go," — lettuce, pepper grass, water-
cress, cucumber, or sliced tomato; but
again, just a little salt for seasoning will
be preferred, as a rule, to the more usual
"salad dressin'."

An egg sandwich, or a hard-boiled
egg, is a special treat these days!

On other "special days," say after a
fowl on Sunday, a drum-stick in oiled
paper may be accompanied by one sand-
wich of chicken dressing, and one of
cranberry sauce; or else a layer of each
may be combined in the same sandwich.

For the sweet sandwich, the boy will
like, as filling, almost any jelly, jam, or
conserve that is not too liquid. Honey,
though it may not sound promising,
makes a sandwich popular with boys.

As a surprise "finish," during the days
when one is barred from pie, cake and
candy, one may add, in a cone of oiled
paper, a few dates, figs, raisins, or nuts.

Yorkshire Ducks

Omitted Query listed in Index for February

This is an old English recipe, and calls
for one-half pound, each, of tresh, lean
pork, of beef suet, and of veal. These
are put through the food-chopper to-
gether, and well mixed. The crumb
from one small wheat loaf is moistened
with one beaten egg, mixed with one-
fourth cup of water, and seasoned with
two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper,
and two of onion juice. The bread and
meat mixtures are then blended; one or
two teaspoonfuls of powdered, dried herbs
are sprinkled over the whole, if desired,

and the mass is divided into six parts,
which are formed into balls, firmly
pressed together, and slightly elongated.
If made at home these may be placed
in a dripping pan, and baked for three-
quarters to one hour. It is possible those
sold in the store are, previously, either
baked or steamed. It is also possible
that liver is substituted in part or wholly
for the pork and the veal. Such mix-
tures as these have no strictly defined
composition, and may be made of the
materials nearest to hand.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

city for delicacies of this sort and, by
making an arrangement with the small
grocers, the farmer can put in a line
that will yield him ready cash profits.

Using the Trimming-Fat

The trimmings of rib-roast and of
steaks should be carefully gathered,
rendered and used instead of cooking
butter. They are the equal, if not the
superior of butter, inasmuch as they are

brain) use four pig's feet, either with or just as delicate in taste and do not turn

without tongue (with tongue it is more black in frying.

Head-Cheese Inexpensive and
Delicious — A Baltic
Specialty

ANY farming district that is within
easy reach of the raw materials
could establish in the near-by cities a
clientele for its products of head-cheese,
and find this side line profitable, if the
product is handled as follows:

With a whole pig's head (minus the

delicate) and blanch in plenty of water.
That means let come to almost a boil,
then drain and wash in cold water;
this is done to obtain a clear product
free from impurities and grayness.

Put the head to boil again, fully and
freely covered with water, and let simmer
for at least five hours.

Add, while cooking, salt, whole pepper-
corns, one-half a bay leaf, two whole
onions, and take off the scum from time
to time.

Then take off the flesh and pick it
from the bones, chop it very fine, put it
in a basin and mix well. Be sure to
have equal amounts of meat and gelat-
inous matter in the receptacles which
you are going to fill.

Then strain over the fleshy parts the
juice and cooking liquor and put in a
draught to cool.

These head-cheeses will be found to be
firm and to yield in their entirety when
dipped into warm water, so that they
can be easily removed from the moulds.

There is always a ready market in the

The cracknels of these fats should be
chopped fine and. after being heated,
should be added to a mixture of corn-
flour, egg, milk, salt, a little baking
powder, a trifle of sugar, and a small
percentage of rice flour, and made into
the most delicious pancakes imaginable.

There is no art required, a neutral
frying medium will turn the trick;
cottonseed fat, highly refined, is best
for the purpose.

Ham trimmings, after being fried and
freed of skin, will serve the purpose
equally well.

These dishes make a highly delectable
and very nourishing food.

Post- War-Time Recipes of
Especial Merit

TO effect economy the householder
should as often as possible include
macaroni, spaghetti, Italian paste, rice,
tapioca, sago, noodles, and other foods, of
like composition, in his menu.

These foods are prepared in about the
same way.

607

608

AMERICAN COOKERY

They are all very cheap, and exceed-
ingly nourishing.

With these advantages, they combine
adaptability to many ways of preparation
and they are very tasty.

To prepare them, they should all first
be boiled. And the boiling should be
done by sprinkling them into boiling
salted water.

There should be plenty of boiling
water and plenty of space in the pot.

The vessel must never be covered.

The cooking process requires about
twenty minutes.

These foods can be made doubly
economic by making them save fuel,
work and time; this is done in the
following manner:

Inasmuch as they can be served in
manifold ways, and inasmuch as they
should appear on the menu frequently,
they should be prepared in quantity.

When boiled they should be drained
through a colander and the water in
which they did boil should be preserved
and used for soups (care must be taken
that this water is not over-salty).

A soup can be prepared from the water
by adding milk, beating an egg in it, and
flavoring it with celery and onion salt;
if additional strength is desired, one or
two bouillon cubes should be added;
whenever a bouillon cube is added to an
aliment containing milk, danger of cur-
dling becomes imminent; this curdling
can be avoided by adding a pinch of
baking soda.

The material itself, from which the
bouillon is thus used, should be immersed
in cold running water (that is, all of it
that is not immediately used). This
immersion will chill the food and make
it keep its original form. It can be
kept in the ice box for days. It can be
heated in a minute, simply by immersing
it in boiling water, and it is then ready
for any style of preparation. This
method is employed in all the big hotels,
where any of these materials must always
be available in tractable form at a
moment's notice.

Any of these dishes can be used for
"au gratin" material; they can also be
prepared with cream sauce, or sweetened
with sugar and cooked with milk, and
served as a pudding. They can be
baked or fried, and they can be used in
soups and as an accompaniment with
entrees.

When any of these materials are
prepared "au gratin," they should be
cooked, after having been boiled, in a
cream sauce made of milk and a little
flour, cornstarch or arrowroot and should
then be put into a baking dish, covered
with bread crumbs, sprinkled with melted
butter or drippings, and shoved into a
medium baking oven.

They can be mixed with the fine-
chopped cracknels from rendered fat,
and they will become especially nourish-
ing and tasty, if the fried fat trimmings
from hams are added to them.

To fry them, they should be well
drained, then some fine-chopped onions
should be fried to a light yellow, and the
cut-up macaroni, noodles, etc., should
be added and well fried.

An excellent dish can be prepared by
taking the hot material out of the water
and mixing it simply with fresh butter.

All these things are adapted to be
served as Lenten dishes. Cream sauce,
prepared from vegetable fat, flour and
milk, will make them taste delicious.

If cooked and served as puddings,
they should be boiled with milk and sugar,
after having been boiled in water and
drained, and, when thoroughly done,
should be taken off the fire and mixed
gently with one or more beaten eggs;
they are then ready to be served, or to
be baked.

If so prepared, with an addition of
arrowroot, they can be cooled and will
then serve as delicious summer dishes,
either sweetened or unsweetened, k. h.

Salted Almonds for Profit

HE inquiry in a recent American
Cookery as to salting almonds for

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

609

profit suggests to me that the experience,
which two ladies in our Ladies Aid had,
might be of assistance to the inquirer.
Although the process, which was given
us by a friend in the business, has been
most carefully guarded in our circle,
and the many questions, as to "how we
salted them, "have been answered only,
"by a new method." A good deal of
our success was due to this, and we pass
along this suggestion also, "not to tell."
Three and four years ago we made a nice
amount for our missionary work, but
during the last two years we have not
attempted to make or sell any, as war
economies lessened customers, and the nuts
are so high priced at present that we cannot
make the 100 to 125 per cent as before.

Buying is the first element for success;
we bought from wholesalers shelled nuts
as much more economical, five-pound
lots at first, but, when we had orders and
could, a twenty-five pound lot gave us a
better price. The Jordan almonds were
the most satisfactory. They are sweeter,
and most people seemed to prefer them,
but a little more expensive, which paid
us better as we figured per cent profit,
and 100 per cent on a higher-priced
article gave us more for the same amount
of work. Our nuts always sold for five
or ten cents below the price at first-class
stores. The Valenciens Almonds often
have bitter nuts, like the peach pits,
mixed in, and we had some complaints
from customers that, occasionally, they
got a very bitter nut. This would have
spoiled our business.

In preparing the nuts we followed the
directions so kindly given us, exactly,
and had wronderful success.

First. Don't blanch over one-fourth
a pound at a time. Pour boiling water
over them and pour off just as quickly
as the skins are loose. Don't let them
soak any more water than is absolutely
necessary. Spread out on a heavy paper
in a dry place, — a warming oven, or
over a hot air register, protected from
dust. A slow, steady heat, until they
are dry and crisp, about twenty-four

hours. Don't hurry this part of the
work. Beat the white of an egg just
enough to break it up. Wet the tips of
the fingers in it, and rub over the nuts,
glazing each side, but using just as little
egg as possible. Dust over with a fine
table salt and brown in a slow oven.
Instead of salt* sometimes use powdered
sugar, a very little, if your customers
like it. Nuts prepared in this way will
not wilt nor grow soft, nor turn rancid
or oily as they do when oil or butter is
used. Every one who had these nuts
was very enthusiastic over them and
very anxious to know the "how," which
as I have said we never told.

We did not spend any money on boxing,
using candy boxes or fancy note paper
boxes. As our orders were generally for
dinners, parties, etc., where the box was
not needed. But we did specialize in
the pretty little crepe paper nut-holders
and made a great many. When a cus-
tomer would order nuts for a dinner, we
would ask how she was going to serve
them and what her color-scheme would
be, and show her the sampleswhichwe had
bought or made and generally we got an
order for the nut-holders. We selected
very pretty samples at the best novelty
stores, paying as high as thirty-five cents
for one, I remember. As we learned how
to make them we often got ideas for them
without buying the sample. The prices
we charged were below those at the stores,
but, considering that the material for
even the most elaborate never cost over
a cent or two, and the making was easy
and very quick, we were well satisfied
with amounts from five cents up to
fifteen, apiece. At Christmas we used
red a good deal, but pink was always the
favorite, and next yellow. The flower
designs were the most popular. A small
rose whose center was a cup, standing on
a slender spiral stem with one green
leaf, was so popular that we grew tired
of making them. A yellow tulip was
very easy. The flowers usually stood on
stems, while the basket shapes had tiny
twisted handles. a. c. r.

Six Meals for Six Dollars or Less

Po*k Chops and Sweet Potatoes En Casserole

Tomatoes White Potatoes

Bread and Butter

Coffee or Tea

Mince Pie

String Beans

Rolls

Macaroni and Cheese (baked)

Chile Sauce or Relish

French Fried Potatoes

'Tea or Coffee
Apple Pot Pie

Corn

Boiled Potatoes

Pickles or Olives

III
Fricassee of Beef

Hot Muffins and Butter

Tea or Coffee

Raisin Pie

Cream of Tomato Soup
Round Steak Croquettes

Biscuits or Brown Bread

Tea or Coffee
Jello and Whipped Cream

Creamed Finnan Haddie on Toast
Baked Potatoes

Coffee or Tea
Rice Pudding with Raisins

Mashed Potatoes

Fried Onions

Corn

Salmon Loaf

Peas Creamed Potatoes

Bread and Butter

Coffee or Tea

Chocolate Blanc Mange

H. W. S.

610

Query No. 4113. — ■ "Please give me a recipe
for Pork Liver Pate?"

CHOP together one pound and one-
half of pork liver, one pound
and one-half of bacon, and one-
quarter a pound of salt pork fat. Season
liberally with salt, pepper, and dried
herbs, and with one small onion, minced.
Lay thin slices of breakfast bacon over
the bottom of a mold, then add a layer
of the pate mixture, and so on until the
mold is filled. Bake for three hours in a
rather slow oven; then dip mold into
cold water for a minute, invert, turn out
the pate on a platter, brush with a rich
meat glaze, or with beaten egg, and
serve with decorations of parsley and
sliced hard-boiled egg.

A simpler recipe, not so rich, is made
from equal parts of chopped liver and
bread crumbs, highly seasoned, and
bound with beaten egg. This is baked
in either single or individual pastry
shells.

Query No. 4114. — "Can you furnish me
with a recipe for English Pork Pies? Those I
mean are bought at an English bake shop, are
filled with chopped meat in a pastry shell, and
seasoned with some herb, not sage."

English Pork Pies

Cut into small pieces lean fresh pork,
with a little fat, and season highly with
salt and pepper. Three pounds of pork
call for an ounce of pepper, and, two
ounces and one-half of salt. In all of
the original English recipes available,
we'find sage prescribed as the seasoning,

but thyme or marjoram may be substi-
tuted. Six fresh sage leaves, or a level
tablespoonful of the dried and powdered,
is right for three pounds of pork. The
mixture is put into the pastry shells,
covered with an upper crust of paste,
and the pies are baked by long, slow,
cooking in a not over-hot oven. They
may need two hours, or until, when the
point of a skewer is thrust into them
through the crust, the meat is found to
be quite soft. Meantime, bones and
trimmings of pork are stewed down in
a very little water until the liquid jells
when cold, and a little of this is poured
into the finished pies by means of a
funnel inserted into the crust.

Another English recipe has sliced
apples arranged in the pastry shell,
alternately, with the pork mixture, the
apples to be lightly dusted over with
sugar and a little grated nutmeg, and the
sage omitted.

Query No. 4115. — "Will you please tell me
how to make Head Cheese? Is all the fat that
is on the head used, or would not that be too
rich? How should the cheese look when prop-
erly jnade?

Head Cheese

The entire head, often with the ears
and tongue, is boiled until so tender that
the meat will fall from the bones. This
may take several hours, depending on
the age of the animal and the weight of
the head. The water used to boil it
should be strongly salted, a cup of salt
to a quart of water. The meat and fat

611

612

AMERICAN COOKERY

should then be chopped or cut into
small pieces, and seasoned with a tea-
spoonful of salt and one-fourth a tea-
spoonful of pepper to every cup of the
chopped meat. Herbs, such as sage and
sweet marjoram, and powdered cloves,
are usually added, though this is a matter
of taste, and about a half-cup of strong
cider vinegar is poured over the whole
after the final mixing.

The seasoned meat should then be
pressed into a cylindrical mold, a stone
jar or butter crock is good, and pressed
down very firm, with a weighted dinner
plate over each cheese to hold the meat
firm in place. It may stand in the cellar
or other cool place for two or three days,
when it should be unmolded, and is
ready for use. It will keep for several
weeks, if placed in a large crock and vine-
gar poured over just to cover.

All of the fat on the head is generally
used, except the part that has dissolved
out in boiling. The seasoning, etc.,
keeps it from being too rich.

The old-fashioned head cheese was
drum-shaped, or cylindrical. It was
marbled over with the meat and fat in
about equal parts, with speckles of the
pepper and herbs. For convenience,
the housekeeper now puts the meat
through the food chopper, and this gives
an all-over mottled effect, instead of the
distinct marbling.

Query No. 4116. — "Could you give me a
recipe for a glossy, boiled, Chocolate Frosting?"

Glossy Boiled Chocolate Frosting

See American Cookery for December,
1919, page 376, under title: "Why
Chocolate Icing Loses Its Gloss," and
under the other heading: "Glossy Boiled
Frosting," etc.

Query No. 4117. — "How shall I proceed
when I want Cookies covered all over with
frosting, both white and chocolate? Would
not the frosting on the bottom side stick?"

To Frost Cookies All Over

Have a good quantity of frosting in a
deep saucepan, the inside of a double

boiler is good, and quickly dip in the
cookies, one at a time, removing to a
sheet of waxed paper. The cookies can
be held on the tines of a steel fork, or
a steel knitting needle can be thrust
through them. The frosting must be kept
hot, or if it solidifies it should be heated
again with a very little water. Any
recipe for cake frosting will do for frost-
ing cookies in this way.

Query No. 4118. — "Could you give me a
Chocolate Sauce to use over ice cream, one that
may be used cold, and which can be kept for a
few days without changing?"

Chocolate Sauce

See American Cookery for December,
1919, page 372, "Chocolate Sauce that
will not Sugar."

Query No. 4119. — "Please tell me how to
make Two Pounds of Butter, and what parts of
the milk or cream to use?"

How to Make Two Pounds of
Butter at Home

From three to four pints of cream, de-
pending on its richness, are needed to
make one pound of butter. It may be
well for you to experiment with a smaller
quantity at first, and beat it with a
Dover beater in a large bowl until the
butter forms, clings to the beater, and
separates from the whey. The weight
of the butter thus made will enable you
to judge how much cream you will need
to make two pounds of butter.

This larger quantity could very well
be beaten in a bread-mixer, if you lack
a regular churn. The cream should be
cold, and the mixer turned rapidly, at
first, more slowly as the butter begins to
form. It will look like fine curds, at
first, distributed through the cream.
When it forms in lumps the size of a nut
or larger, strain off the whey or butter
milk, and wash the butter in very cold
water, working it with a wooden spatula
and changing the water until the last
shows no trace of milk. It may be
salted with one tablespoonful of fine
salt to every cup of butter, and then al-

AJJY HKlld.tiVl^IN 13

fried foods
healthful as
well as delicious

Get Crisco from your grocer — one
pound, net weight, or larger sizes.
Always packed in this sanitary
container — never sold in bulk.

Do you know how to make
your family's meals health-
ful, as well as appetizing?

"Balanced Daily Diet" tells you
about the food elements that build
the healthiest bodies, and gives a
simple rule for planning meals so
they contain these elements in the
proper proportions, yet include
only foods you like. It also gives
many delicious recipes and daily
menus. Written by Janet McKen-
zie Hill, founder of the Boston
Cooking School, and editor of
"American Cookery." To get this
valuable book, send only 10 cents
postage, with your name and com-
plete address, to Dept. A-3, The
Procter fit Gamble Co., Cincinnati,
Ohio.

Fried foods can be as healthful as they
are delicious, if you fry them in Crisco,
the strictly vegetable cooking fat.

Crisco makes fried foods wholesome
because it is wholesome itself. It is
simply a solid white cream of nutri-
tious vegetable oil — delicate, appetiz-
ing, pure, white, tasteless, odorless. It
does not turn rancid.

Everyone can enjoy Crisco -fried foods.
They are as easily digested as if they
were baked.

Use Crisco for all kinds of cooking.
It makes tender, flaky, digestible
pastries and biscuits. It enriches the
most delicate cakes so that they taste
as good as if they were made with
butter. Yet Crisco is as economical
a cooking fat as you can use.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

613

614

AMERICAN COOKERY

lowed to stand in a cool place until firm
enough to mold.

Butter made at home will cost three
or four times as much as that bought in
the market; that is, if the cream to
make it has to be purchased, for the
cream being more perishable, has to be
sold at a very much higher figure, pro-
portionately. The home-made butter,
too, will be nearly white, if made at a
time of year when the cows are not
grazing in the pastures.

Query No. 4120. — "How shall I make Milk
Chocolate to coat candies?"

Milk Chocolate Candy Coating

Make precisely as you would the
ordinary fondant coating, using milk
instead of water, and corn syrup instead
of sugar.

Query No. 4121 — "I wish a recipe for
Butter Scotch Pie, also for Butter Scotch Roll.
I also wish a book on serving, etc., please advise
me what to order and the price."

Butter Scotch Pie

Cook a cup of brown sugar over the
fire until melted and a light brown.
Add one cup of water, and continue cook-
ing until the sugar is dissolved. Blend
three tablespoonfuls of flour with three
tablespoonfuls of butter, and stir this
into the brown, liquid; cook until thick,
then quickly beat in one well-beaten
egg, and pour at once into pastry shell.

Butter Scotch Roll

Omit egg from above recipe, and
spread on a sheet of sponge cake baked
in jelly cake pan, and roll same as jelly
cake.

Books on Serving

"The Up-to-Date Waitress," by Mrs.
Janet M. Hill, price $1.60 post paid; or
'' Practical Cooking and Serving," by the
same author, price $3.00, ought to fill
your needs.

Query No. 4122. — "Will you kindly give
me a good recipe for Layer Cake, using both

yolk and white of eggs. My layer cake gets
hard and stale."

Layer Cake That Will Keep Fresh

The recipe for Gala Cake, on page 359
of American Cookery for December,
1919, can be used for a layer cake by
baking in layer-cake pans. Are you
sure that the reason your layer cakes get
hard and stale is not that you bake them
too long? Layer-cake needs only about
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Also,
remember that the more butter you use
and the less liquid other than beaten
eggs the longer your cake will keep moist
and fresh.

Query No. 4123. — "Kindly tell me of two
or three Desserts that can be" made by a High
School class, and that call for little sugar? Also,
what would you suggest for a Cooking Class
exhibit, along with an exhibit of sewing?"

Desserts with Little Sugar

Raisin or prune pies, date puddings,
stewed figs, jellied, all need very little
sugar. Also, corn or maple syrups,
honey, molasses, etc., may be substituted
for sugar in sweetening pies, puddings,
and other desserts. The longer any of
the dried fruits are cooked the more
sweetness will be developed. Prunes,
slowly cooked for several hours at a low
temperature, form a sweet, thick syrup.
Dates, figs, or raisins do the same. Even
apples, very slowly baked, will develop
much more sweetness than when cooked
quickly, through the chemical action of
their own acid with the slow heat.

Exhibit of Cooking to go with
Exhibit of Sewing

Breads and breadstuff are the cleanest
and least "mussy" foods to be exhibited
together with articles from the sewing
class. Why not work up a series of
yeast mixtures, showing the use of the
thin and the medium batters, the soft
doughs and the stiff doughs, all in yeast
mixtures? You might thus illustrate
the evolution, as it were, of the different
fancy breads and rich raised cakes from

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By i LADY

A NEW EDIT!"-
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'in, and then bake it an hour in a quick oven. v
• change, you may put in a pound of currants, clean wafhed
and picked.

To make a cheap feed-cake.

YOU muft take half a peck of flour, a pound and a half of
butter, put it in a fauce-pan with a pint of new milk, fet it on
the fire ; take a pound of fugar, half an ounce of all-fpice best
fine, and mix them with the flour. When the butter is melted,
pour the milk and butler in the middle of the flour, and work
it up like parte. Pour in with the milk half a pint of good ale
Veaft, fet it before the fire to rife, juG: before it goe» to theoveo.
Either put ia fome currants or carraway-feeds, aod bake it in a
quick oven. Make it into two cakes. They will take an hour
and a naif baking.

TV make a butter cake.

YOU mutt take a difh of butter, and beat it like cream with
^your hand?, two pounds of fine fugar well beat, three pound*
lied, andyhiaiihem in with I

A "CHEAP" CAKE

What fascinating reading there is
in the old cook-books ! Their calm
way of ordering "a pound and a
half of butter" for a cheap seed-
cake! And how queer it sounds
now to read of aale yeast" to make
a cake rise !

The housewives of that day
never knew the wonderful conven-
ience and time-saving of baking
powder; they did not have the ad-
vantage of the scientific accuracy
and reliability of Ryzon, the Per-
fect Baking Powder.

Ryzon is the latest chapter in
the interesting history of leavening.
With it and the work of the domes-
tic science experts, the progress of
baking has made big strides to-
ward better and more wholesome
living.

Ryzon is packed in full 16 ounce pounds —
also 25c and 15c packages. The neav Ryzon
Baking Book (original price Si. 00), containing
250 practical recipes, ivill be mailed, postpaid
upon receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except in
Canada. A pound tin of Ryzon ivill be sent
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher
ivho writes us on school stationery, giving
official position.

GENERALCHEMICALCQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

The Ryzon
level measure

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

615

616

AMERICAN COOKERY

the simple "flannel cake" (thin batter)
mixture. Such an exhibit would be very
interesting. An exhibit of canning and
preserving would also go very well with
one of sewing. You could work out
pretty color-schemes in this way — such
as a gamut of apple jellies, going from the
nearly white to the deep red jellies.

Query No. 4124. — "What causes my Brown
Bread to have a large hole in the center of the
loaf?"

Please give me the different sizes for breakfast,
luncheon, and dinner napkins, also the width of
the hems, and the width of the tablecloth hems?
Should the selvages be hemmed, or left plain?

Brown Bread, to Avoid Hole*
in Center of

Allow the bread to stand in the tins
for twenty minutes or half-an-hour before
steaming.

Concerning Table Linen

There is no hard-and-fast rule for the
sizes of the table napkins, except that
those for breakfast and luncheon are
generally smaller than the dinner nap-
kins. From 15 to 20 inches square is a
good size for breakfast, or an informal
luncheon; dinner napkins and those for
formal luncheons are often 25 and even
30 inches square.

The ordinary French hem on a napkin
has a width of not more than one-fourth
an inch, and the selvage is not hemmed.
The hem-stitched table linen is hemmed
all round four sides, and the width is a
matter of taste, an inch or more as you
please. The French hem for the table-
cloth is the same width as for the nap-
kins; the hem-stitched hem may or may
not be wider for tablecloths.

Muffins, biscuits, rolls 425° to 450° Fah.

Cookies •.„... 400° to 425°

Angel cake 300° to 350°

Sponge cake 350° to 375°

Layer cakes 400° to 415°

Loaf cakes 325° to 375°

Pastry .450° to 475°

Note, however, that this is the tempera-
ture taken from the center of the oven,
and that the oven clock in the door of the
oven will register from ten to twenty
degrees less. This should always be
allowed for.

Note, further, that the larger the loaf
or cake, the lower the temperature should
be. This applies to several loaves of
bread baked in one pan, which may be
regarded as one large loaf. Also, the
more sugar, molasses, or other sweetening
in the mixture, the lower the temperature
should be, to avoid burning.

A lukewarm temperature is one very
little over blood heat, perhaps from 100°
Fah. to 110° Fah.

To Remove Red Dye from
a Carpet

Try the application of bleaching pow-
der, or of a weak solution of lye. Experi-
ment on a small piece of the carpet, and
if successful use the application on the
whole. When the dye is removed, wash
off the parts in a weak solution of vinegar,
to neutralize the injurious effect of the
alkali. It is not possible to give a specific
remedy, unless the nature of the dye,
whether vegetable, animal, or mineral,
is exactly known.

Query^No. 4125. — "What is the proper oven
temperature for cakes, cookies, and all kinds of
bread and biscuits? What temperature is
considered lukewarm? Is there anything that
will take a red dye out of a carpet without
injuring the carpet?"

Temperature for Baking Bread,
Cake, Etc.

Bread 350° to 400° Fah.

Query No. 4126. — "Can you suggest some
uses for Orange Peels? We use a great many
oranges, and I feel as if it was wasteful to throw
away those good-looking, fresh peels."

What to Do with Orange Peels

We entirely agree with you that it is
wasteful to throw away the peels of
oranges. They can be used for marma-
lade, by shredding into very fine strips,
and following the recipe for any orange
marmalade, substituting one apple for

ADVERTISEMENTS

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Replacing Cover
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COCOANUT CUSTARD PIE

X <$'

Something

New
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WHEN fresh fruits are gone,
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novelty to fresh fruit and Wash-
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Every package contains Guarantee
Write today for Free copy of
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well as other delicious desserts,
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The HILLS BROTHERS Co.

Dept. G 375 Washington Street, New York

iS?T

COCOANUT PRUNE PIE

FRESH
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i / '

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KEEPING

COAN

COCOANUT FRUIT PIE

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

617

AMERICAN COOKERY

the pulp of each orange called for in the
recipe. Care should be taken to remove
every particle of the thin membrane
which holds the sections of orange
together, and the pulp to the skin, for
this, gives a disagreeable flavor to the
marmalade.

Another way to use the peelings is to
put them through the food-chopper —
always removing the membranes — and
place the fine-chopped peels in jars, in
alternate layers, with granulated sugar.
The layers should be well pressed to-
gether, or weighted. After a few days
a thick, golden syrup will collect at the
bottom of the jars, and this is exceedingly
delicious to flavor puddings, icings, cake
fillings, or a dozen other dishes.

To dry the peelings and grate the yellow
outside; to cut them while fresh in strips
and candy them; to chop, and make
confections mixed with nuts; these and
many other ways of using them will
suggest themselves. But, by all means,
avoid throwing them away.

Baby Midget

HOSE SUPPORTER

holds the socks securely and allows the little one
absolute freedom of action, so necessary to its
health, growth and comfort. The highly nickeled
parts of the " Baby Midget " have smooth,
rounded corners and edges and they do not come
in contact with the baby's skin.
Like the Velvet Grip Hose Supporters for
women, misses and children it is equipped
with the famous All-Rubber Oblong Button,
which prevents slipping and ruthless ripping.
Silk, 15 cents; Lisle, 10 cents

SOLD EVRRYWHERB OR SENT POSTPAH,
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON

New Books

The Woman of Forty. By Dr. E. B.

Lowry. Price, $1.25. Forbes &

Co., Chicago.
It has been said that the middle years
of a woman's life are wasted more than
any of our national resources. This
should not be; for the women of forty
are the women of mature understanding
and ripe judgment, still possessing abun-
dant health and strength. As Dr. Lowry
says, most of the world's great women
have been past middle life when they
performed the achievements which made
them famous. A woman in the forties
who wishes to be at her best and desires
mental and physical growth should read
this sensible book, — and it should be
read by her husband, also. It is a book
physicians will recommend to their
patients.

This is the tenth volume of the sex
hygiene books by Dr. Lowry, which have
become widely known, because they give
the fundamentals of health in such a clear,
reliable way that they lead to right
living and happiness. The new work is
fully equal, in quality, to the former books
by this author, and it will be read with
profit by many women.

Every Step in Canning. By Grace
Viall Gray. Price, $1.25. Forbes
& Co., Chicago.

Cold-pack canning was introduced by
the government during the war to stimu-
late the preservation of foods, and pro-
duced such wonderful results that the
women who adopted it will never return
to the old-fashioned laborious and waste-
ful ways of preserving.

The name, " cold-pack" method, is apt
to be misleading. The plain truth is no
process of canning and preserving food
is successful without a complete steriliza-
tion or cooking of materials by heat.
This is a first lesson in canning. The
author of "Every Step in Canning" puts
this fact foremost thus: "'Cold-pack'
simply means that the products are
packed cold in their fresh and natural

Buy advertised Goods —

Do not accept substitutes
618

ADVERTISEMENTS

You Pay 10c

For Dishes Not So Good

The greatest breakfast you
can serve is a dish of Quaker
Oats. And it costs one cent.

It costs ten times that to
serve two eggs, as per prices at
writing.

It costs twelve

Two Eggs

Cost Ten Cents

One Chop
Costs T2 Cents

this

times that

to serve a

single chop.

Yet the
oat is the
supreme
f| food. It is almost a complete
food.

Quaker Oats yield 1810 calories of energy per pound.
Round steak yields 890, and eggs 635.

Quaker Oats cost SXA cents per 1,000 calories. That's the
energy measure of food value.

Compare that cost with other necessary foods. Here is
what they cost at this writing:

Fish Costs

8 Cents Per Serving

Cost Per 1000 Calories

Quaker Oats .
Average Meats
Average Fish .

53^c
45c
50c

Eggs . .
Vegetables
Broilers .

. . 70c

lie to 75c

$1.66

Save 45c per Breakfast

Quaker Oats cost one cent per serving, while meat foods average ten cents.

Thus Quaker Oats breakfasts for five people cost 45c less than meat breakfasts.
Note how that counts up in a month.

Those are facts to ponder in these high-cost days. The greatest food costs
little. It's a food that people need.

Start the day on Quaker Oats. What you save will help to buy the costlier
foods for dinner. And your people will be vastly better fed.

Flaked from Queen Grains Only

Quaker Oats makes a delicious dish. It is flaked from queen grains only — just the rich,
plump, flavory oats. We get but ten pounds from a bushel. This extra flavor costs you no
extra price. It is due to yourself that you get it.

15c and 35c per package

Except in the Far West and South
Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover 3270

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

619

TECO

SELF-RISING

Pancake

and Buckwheat

Flour

IV a in the Flour,

Hot cakes! In a minute!

Made with Teco pancake ai d buckwheat

flour.

Wheat cakes! Waffles! Gems!

Make the finest easily and quickly with
Teco pancake flour and cold water.

Buckwheat cakes!

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add
cold water to Teco buckwheat flour.

For our new buttermilk book write to

THE EKENBERG CO.

506 Cambridge St., Cortland, N. Y.

Sawteb Cbybtal Blue Co., N. E. Agts.

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

'M-m-m, delicious!" The kiddies will
smack their lips over the puddings,
cakes, candies, cookies and other deli-
cacies you sweeten and flavor with
Uncle John's Syrup. And to spread
over flapjacks, hot bread, and boiled
rice you'll declare Uncle John's Syrup is

As Necessary on the Table
as the Sugar and the Cream

It's so pure and wholesome, too — the finest

cane and maple sugar blended — with the real

flavor from the maple grove. Order a can from

your grocer. A trial will make you a regular user.

Four handy sizes

New England Maple Syrup Co.

BOSTON, MASS.

state in the glass jars or containers. To
the fruits, hot sirup is applied; to the
vegetables, hot water and a little salt
are added. The sterilization is done in
the glass jars or tin containers after they
are partly or entirely sealed, making it
practically impossible for bacteria or
spores to enter after the product has
once been carefully sterilized or cooked.
In following this method, vegetables
should first be blanched in boiling water
or live steam, then quickly plunged into
cold water and the skins removed. The
products are then packed in containers
and sterilized according to the instruc-
tions and recipes given later.

" When we use the term sterilizing, we
simply mean cooking the product for a
certain period of time after the jar has
been filled with food. It is sometimes
called processing. Sterilizing, processing,
boiling and cooking are all interchangea-
ble terms, and mean one and the same
thing.

"By this 'cold-pack,' or cold-fill,
method of canning, all food products,
including fruits, vegetables and meats,
can be successfully sterilized in a single
period with but one handling of the
product in and out of the canner."

The new system saves labor, time and
fuel, and by eliminating spoilage it
prevents waste of food. "Every Step
in Canning" not only gives complete
instructions for canning in glass and
tins, but also gives full directions for
preserving all foods in every form, —
by brining, drying, smoking and storing.

Food for the Sick and the Well. By Mar-
garet P. Thompson. Cloth, ix +
82 pages. Price, #1.00. Yonkers-
on-Hudson, New York: World
Book Company.
This is a book of recipes, the result of
many years of experience in arranging,
changing and adapting them, so as to
form a well-regulated diet for the sick
and for convalescents, as well as for those
who are well and wish to remain so.

There are recipes for breakfast* cereals,
breads, eggs, soups, meats, fishes, cereals
Concluded on page 628

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

620

AUVH.KlldlllVirLlN Id

>/*&>^fc

■ -■ ►'•

7 -

v\.':\ ^ 1 • -. ^

Sft

SM<

THE days of "miracles" have
.never passed. Never was the
world so filled with miracles as it is
today — the miracle of the faucet
which brings us water from miles
away — the miracle of the gas flame
by which we cook without the dis-
comforts of old-time methods — the
miracle of the telephone.

Consider for a moment, the amaz-
ing miracle of canned foods.

Here is asparagus — fruit — beans
— peas — corn — tomatoes, etc., each
from that part of the country where
climadc conditions, or conditions of
the soil, produce the finest varieties
and consequently have caused can-
neries to- be there established.

Not long ago canned foods were
regarded as delicacies, far beyond
the reach of everyday pocket-
books.

The vast development of the can-
ning industry has changed all this.
The humblest family now revels in
Columbia River or Alaskan salmon
and blithely orders beans that were
grown and packed a dozen states
away. The whole country is a
great recruiting ground for canned
foods.

Washington, D. C, is the head-
quarters of the National Canners
Association, whose research labora-
tories are there located.

Questions of great moment to the

National Canners Association, Washington, D. C.

A nation-wide organization formed in 1907, consisting of producers of all varieties of
hermetically sealed canned foods which have been sterilized by heat. It neither pro-
duces, buys, nor sells. Its purpose is to assure for the mutual benefit of the industry and
the public, the best canned foods that scientific knowledge and human skill can produce.

canning industry are there threshed
out. A staff" of scientists investigates
problems bearing on the scientific
aspects of the canning industry.

The results of these investigations
are made known to members of the
Association — about 1140 of the
principal canning establishments of
the country — many with research
laboratories of their own.

The work of the Association is
of the utmost importance to every
person in the land.

The next time you see a can of
food — in the store or at home — look
at it with new interest; it is a
"modern miracle" — clean, whole-
some and nourishing.

GannedifFooditheMiracl

ok on \bur

\\ CJable

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

621

SLOW
OVEN-

rwurA&yur?

Don't try to follow indefinite, haphazard directions.
Be sure of your oven temperature and good results
will follow — every time. With the

Taylor

Home Set

There's no need to be continually opening the oven
door to see "if it's done"; that means valuable heat lost.
The oven thermometer ($2.00) tells exact oven temp-
erature— you'll know just when, the pastry or the roast
isreadv. The candy thermometer ($2.00) tells exact
temperature in boiling. The sugar meter ($1.00) tells
exact thickness of syrups in canning and preserving.

You'll find the three Taylor
Recipe Books, sent upon' re-
quest, very handy for suggest-
ing welcome changes in the
daily menu. And thereis much
practical information about
cooking in general. Write for
these books today.

Taylor Instrument Companies
Rochester, N. Y.

If your dealer can't supply
the Taylor Home Set, mail
$5.00 direct to us with dealer's
name and set will be sent you
prepaid. (ee8)

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper?
wants CREMOVESCO.

Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 foz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 16oz., $1.00

(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

The Silver Lining ]

A Question of Leaving

"Where did you work last?" asked the
prosecuting attorney.

"On the Milwaukee Sentinel"

"Why did you leave?"

"The editor and I disagreed on a na-
tional political question."

"Where did you work next?"

"On the New Orleans Item"

"Why did you leave there?"

"The editor and I disagreed on a na-
tional political question."

Suddenly the judge interfered. " What
was this national political question?"

"Prohibition," was the instant reply. —
Everybody's.

"Some people's ideas of heaven and of
politics," said Senator Sorghum, "are
very much the same. They consult
their own imagination as to the kind that
would suit their personal tastes and then
stand out for it till doomsday."

— Washington Star,

"Has this car got a speedometer?''
asked an old gentleman of the auctioneer,
at one of the Disposal Board sales. The
auctioneer was equal to the occasion and
replied: "At 30 miles an hour it exhibits
a white flag, at 40 miles a red flag, and at
50 miles a gramophone begins to play,
'I'm going to be an angel, and with I he
angels dwell.' " — London Tit-Bits.

Little Jimmy went with his mother to
stay with an aunt in the country, and
his mother was worried as to how he
would behave. But to her surprise he
was angelic during the whole visit —
always did as he was told, and never
misbehaved. As soon as he got home,
however, he was his natural self again.
"O Jimmy," she said, "you were so good
while you were away. Why do you
start behaving badly now?" "What's
home for?" asked Jimmy, in pained
surprise. — ■ Chicago News.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

622

AUVHK1 IbHAlriM b

Arerit desserts
a problem

now- a- days ?

With the price of eggs and butter,
cream and sugar so high that cakes
and pies and puddings are luxuries,
it's good to know we have one
"standby'* left.

Cox's Gelatine — still inexpensive,
its quality still the best — comes to
the front to solve our problem.

There are any number of Gelatine
desserts, all different and all delicious,
and there are many other ways of
using Gelatine in puddings and other
desserts, making them easier to pre-
pare and more economical. And
do you know that you can make de-
licious candy with Cox's Gelatine?

Send for our Manual of Gelatine Cookery.
You'll find it a help in all your cooking.

THE COX GELATINE CO.

Dept. D 100 Hudson St., New York

VIOLET SHERBET

\% tablespoons COX'S INSTANT POW.

DERED GEL A TINE
2 cups water 2 cups grape juice

2 cups sugar 2 egg whites

2 lemons % cup powdered sugar

Boil sugar and water 5 minutes, add Gelatine
mixed with lemon juice. Cool, add grape juice
and freeze. When frozen, stir in whites of eggs
and sugar. Repack and let stand 2 hours. This
can be garnished with a feu) candied violets.

Instant Powdered

GELATINE

3*5

3 |

-ill

3*E

How Children
Love Junket !

Even when they don't like milk,
they will ask for more Junket —
which is simply milk in a more
attractive and readily digestible
form.

MADE with MILK

Let them have all they want of it,
because it is among the best foods they
could eat.

It is delicious to the taste, and whole-
some and nourishing.

When ice cream is made with a Jun-
ket Tablet it not only requires less
cream and produces ice cream of a
smooth, velvety texture, but the cream
is then more easily digestible.

Junket Tablets are sold by grocers
and druggists everywhere.

Nesnah —

the

Powdered

Junket

is the same as Junket
Tablets, except it is
in powdered form and
a 1 r e a d y sweetened
and flavored. It
comes in 6 pure fla
vors, delicious in
taste and appearance.
Simply add milk.

The Junket Folks
Little Falls, N. Y.

Canadian Factory:

Chr. Hansen's

Canadian Laboratory

Toronto, Ont.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

623

Price's

Van i ll a

Tropikid is the symbol of Price's
Vanilla — absolute purity, mellow
flavor and just right strength- — neither
too mild nor too strong. It gives a de-
licious taste to home-baked goodies!

PRICE FLAVORING EXTRACT CO.

In Business 67 years
Chicago, U. S. A.

^Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers^' Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
^L (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111. JJ

Foo43L
CJaJCe

X-

8 Inches Square, 5 Inches High

- \ 'Mother makes the best cake in the world."

/ You know her. She is the champion cake

maker in the neighborhood. How we envy

her; ask for her recipes; try to excel her.

ini\\ I will make you a champion cake maker. I

'iiry teach you how to make delicious Angel Food

I Cake and many other kinds by the

Osborn Qake Making System

My methods are original. They never fail. Manv women
make tneir pin" money selling cakes made by the Os-
born System Mrs. Rhodes, So. Car. writes me:

1 have made a great success selling cakes,
supplying a local grocer. The cakes sell as
fast as I can make them."

Cakes Sell for $3.00 a loaf-Profit S2.00
Write me today. Let me tell you more about
my cakes and the Osborn Cake Making System.
Let me send you particulars FREE.

MRS. GRACE OSBORN
Dept. L-3 Bay City, Michigan

Smith: "Who are you w~rking for

now?"

Jones: "Same people — wile and five
children."

"What do you think of the two candi-
dates?" "Well, the more I think of it
the more pleased I am that only one of
them can be elected."

— Michigan Gargoyle.

Teacher: "Don't you know that punc-
tuation means that you must pause?"

Willie: "Course I do. An auto driver
punctuated his tire in front of our house
Sunday and he paused for half an hour."
— ■ Boston Transcript.

"There's eddication, and there's com-
mon sense," I ses. "Some people 'as

one, and some people 'as the other.
Give me common sense." "That's wot

me common sense,
you want," he ses, nodding

Deep Waters, by W. W. Jacobs.

"There's talk of abolishing the nickel."
"That shows that as a people we have
no sentiment." "How so?" "Why, if we
had, we would keep it if only as a re-
minder of the good old days when we
could buy something with it." — Judge.

A food faddist was haranguing a crowd
on the marvellous benefits to be obtained
from his particular diet scheme.
"Friends," he cried, "two years ago I
was a miserable wreck. What do you
suppose brought this great change in
me?" He paused to see the effect of his
words. Then one of his listeners asked,
"What change?

A package of "Teco" makes about
forty good-sized griddle cakes. Just add
cold water to "Teco" and your cakes are
ready for the griddle; and such cakes — !
The Malted Buttermilk in "Teco" lends
a softness and blandness to the ordinary
wheat and buckwheat flavor that is
deliciously different. Adv.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

624

ADVERTISEMENTS

Tasty Lenten Dishes at Small Cost

From the cold, deep sea, to your table,
with wholesome fresh-caught flavor,
B & M Fish Flakes are deliciously good.

New England's famous fish dishes are
as near to you as your grocer. Note
the two tempting suggestions below.

BURNHAM & MORRILL
FISH FLAKES

Appetizing Dishes for Any Meal Quickly
and Easily Prepared

Fish Flake Cakes

Cook in boiling salted water until tender,
two cups raw potatoes cut in quarters. Drain,
mash and add one tin B & M Fish Flakes, two
tablespoons butter, or cream sauce, a pinch of
pepper and a little hot milk. Beat thorough-
ly, shape in cakes, dip in flour and fry in fat
tried out from three or four slices of bacon.

Baked Fish Flakes

To one cupful cream sauce add one tin
B & M Fish Flakes and pour into a shallow
baking dish. Cut three hard boiled eggs in
half lengthwise and arrange on top of the fish,
pressing down slightly. Cover with bread-
crumbs and grated cheese. Bake in a hot oven
for 20 minutes until top is a golden brown.

Many other delicious recipes sent free upon request,
"Good Eating," a recipe book for
rnham & Morrill Fish Flakes

Direct from the Sea to

You and immediately

obtainable at your

grocer's

BURNHAM & MORRILL COMPANY, 75 Water Street, Portland, Me.

Packing and specializing in State of Maine Food Products only — the best of their

kind — including B & M Paris Sugar Corn, B & M Pork, and Beans,

B& M Clam Chowder, B& M Clams, B& M Lobster

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

625

Delicious

Maple Flavored

Syrup

" YOU CAN MAKE
IT INSTANTLY

with

lPLEINE

JAQGotdon 7/avor

There's no need to deprive yourself and
family of that good old maple syrup
taste — for Mapleine added to sugar and
water provides exactly the same flavor.
Try it.

To Make a Pint of Syrup

2 cups sugar, I cup water and
half teaspoonful of Mapleine

and for corn syrup flavoring or
for flavoring the many cane syr-
ups grocers sell, Mapleine is re-
markable.

Mapleine contains no maple su-
gar, syrup nor sap, but produces
a taste similar to maple. Grocert
sell Mapleine.

2 oz. bottle 35c; Canada 50c

4c stamp and trade mark from
Mapleine carton will bring the
Mapleine Cook Book of 200 re-
cipes, including many desserts.

Crescent Mfg. Company
323 Occidental Avenue
Seattle, Wash.

TEN- CENT MEALS $20° per we^

., »«-i«»fcJi-r per person: 42

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
fnends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

The Windmill

Every thing in the dear old village seemed
the same to Giles after his absence of four
years as a prisoner of war in Germany.
The old church, the village pump, the
ducks on the green, the old men smoking
their pipes while the women talked, —
it was so restful after the treatment he had
received at the hands of the enemy. Sud-
denly he missed something. "Where's
Hodge's other windmill?" he asked in
surprise. "I can only see one mill, and
there used to be two." The native gazed
thoughtfully around as if to verify the
statement. Then he said slowly: "They
pulled one down. There wasn't enough
wind for two of em!"

— London Tit-Bits.

"Any good fishing around here?"
asked the visitor of the little village lad.
'Yes, sir," answered the boy. "You
goes down that private road until you
comes to a sign in a field wot says,
'Trespassers will be prosecuted.' Well,
you go across the middle of that field,
and then you comes to a pond, with a
noticeboard wot says, 'No Fishing Al-
lowed.'" "Yes?" "Well — that's it."

— Farm and Home.

Father: "How many people work in
your office?"

Son (government employee): "Oh,
about half." — Bystander.

HERE'S 25 CENTS FOR YOU

Clip this ad., mail it now with 25c and get our

50c MATCHLESS SILVER CLEANER |

Cleans Silver-ware, Easiest, Quickest,
Cheapest and Best (Guaranteed)

MAC SALES CO., 2025 W. Balto. St., Balto., Md

^^^^ TnAe Mark Eeglitered.

j^Gluten Flour.

40% GLUTEN

Guaranteed to comply in all respects lo

standard requirements of U. S. Dept. off

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FABWELL & KHINES

Watcrlown, N. Y.

Z*V

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
626

ADVERTISEMENTS

/fa/fa

Ttots

"Dollar Stretchers"

"Did you know that canned fruits, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, peaches

pineapples, pears — whether you bought them in tins or put them up for yourself,

will go 'twice-as-far' if you blend them into fruit desserts or salads, and serve twice

as many people as the fruit alone would serve?"

Take a cup and a half of canned fruit, for example. Alone, it makes only a few helpings — out
when combined with '/j package of Knox Sparkling Gelatine and made up into a Fruit Sponge,
I have found it an ample dessert for six or seven people.

Try this Fruit Sponge Recipe of mine. Your family will call it a new delight, while you can also
enjoy it as a "dollar stretcher."

FRUIT SPONGE

Yi envelope KNOX Sparkling Gelatine 1 tablespoonful lemon juice Vi cup sugar

Yi cup cold water 1 y2 cups canned fruits White of one egg

1 cup canned fruit juice

Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes and dissolve in hot fruit juice. Add fruit, sugar and lemon juice,
begins to set, add white of egg, beaten until stiff. Turn into mold, first dipped in cold water and chill,
custard sauce or garnish with whipped cream, sweetened, and flavored with vanilla and chopped fruit.

When mixture
Serve with a

KNOX the "4-to-l" Gelatine

Speaking of "dollar stretchers," Knox Sparkling Gelatine is one in itself. It will stretch over four
meals or go four times as far as the ready-prepared packages, which only do for one lunch or dinner
and only make six servings. One package of my gelatine stretches out into twenty-four individual
servings or will make four desserts for a family of six for four different luncheons or dinners, which
explains why experts have always called Knox the "4-to-l" Gelatine.

Special Home Service

If you need any help with your home table
problems, or in stretching your food allowance,
write me, mentioning your grocer's name, and
I will send you my recipe books "Dainty Des-
serts" and "Food Economy" which contain
many helpful suggestions.

Any domestic science teacher can have sufficient
gelatine for her class, if she will write me on school
stationery, stating quantity and when needed.

Wherever a recipe calls for Gelatine — it means " KNOX "
MRS. CHARLES B. KNOX

KNOX GELATINE

107 Knox Avenue, Johnstown, X. Y.

SvSESBSSv^s

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

627

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

rr stuvLS youb homi

SAVES VOUB TIME THAT
IS MACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grada piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for GENERAL UTILITY,
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessness. WRITE NOW
FOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET
AND DEALERS NAME

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

¥■ ' 504) Cunard Bide. Chicago, III.

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Recipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. 165 Oliver st., boston, mass.

"Free-Hand Cooking "

Cook without recipes — a key to cookbooks — correct proportions,
time, temperature, thickening,leavening,shortening,etc. 40 p. book.
10 cents or FREE if you are interested in Domestic Science courses.

Am. School of Home Econcmics, 503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

-^ ® Red Label

Spices

TheAaColburnCo.,
Philadelphia,U.SA

®o\®

!^/f*T<^AY

For every day in the week.
For evary room. For general
housecleaning.

f»""rt0%sNSs'",s

Solid Cake
No Waste

*^i*ff*S4f

New Books

Concluded from page 620
and starchy vegetables, green vegetables,
salads and desserts, cakes, albuminous
drinks, jellies, canned fruits, and cheese
dishes.

An additional section of the book
devotes itself to treatments, such as
baths, sponges, hot-packs, salt-rubs, poul-
tices, mustard plasters, enemas, douches,
and directions for the proper way of
filling a hot-water bag.

An index of several pages will enable
people to find what they are looking for
in a hurry.

This is a plain, brief and very practical
little hand-book.

High Heels

The Illinois Health News traces defects
in eyesight and hearing to bad attitudes in
standing and sitting.

"The stooping posture cramps the
lungs and other internal organs, and in-
terferes with normal development. In
this way, diseases get their first foothold.
It follows, therefore, that the first step in
preventing consumption may be to fit a
child with proper glasses; and the second
step must be to create a habit of right
breathing and posture, either when sit-
ting, standing, walking or running. Flat
foot and broken arches are the result of
carelessness in the use of the feet, and
the wearing of improper shoes. High
heels are an abomination unto the Lord.
They are largely responsible for the weak
ankles of girls and women. They in-
terfere with grace of movement. The
girls imitate cows in walking upon their
toes, and many also acquire the bovine
grace of walking. 'Hammer toes,' some-
times requiring amputation, are another
product of high heels. The high heel
insanity is developed during school life,
and one of the best preventives is the
teaching of graceful exercises."

ANGLEFOO

I The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

I The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says in the

I Bulletin : Special pains should be taken

f\ to prevent children from

I ^Hk^ drinking poisoned baites

u y4s3& and poisoned fliesdropping

* /T> into foods or drinks.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

628

AD\ llKllbJLAltA lb

"Hold it tight, Sis."

f IKE all children, little Billy's first thought is for the safety of the
-*-*' precious package of Wheatena. The certainty of wet feet does not
worry them half as much as a possible mishap to their favorite cereal.
Grown-ups as well as little folks love it because Wheatena

Tastes Good

Mother has many reasons for serving Wheatena in some form every
day. She knows this all wheat cereal is largely responsible for the glowing
health of her sturdy children. Wheatena makes rosy cheeks, good
appetites and strong bodies.

Then, too, it takes Mother only three minutes to
prepare Wheatena for breakfast, so it is a food of real
economy.

Sold by grocers everywhere. A book of tasty Wheatena
recipes will be sent free on request.

The Wheatena Company,

Wheatenaville,

Rahway, New Jersey

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

629

Send TODAY tfU^7
for Special ^y\€¥M<l>

Factory Price

on 12,SOO

Rapids!

/Be one of the first
12,500 women to ,
write me. Get my new
special rock - bottom
price on a Rapid. I've
made these special of-
fers before like the
department stores do.
The big difference is you
get the lowest factory-to-kitchen price
from me. Here's your chance to save money. Aluminum lined
throughout — full set high-grade aluminum utensils with each
cooker. 30 days' free trial before you decide. Saves 2-3 to
3-4 fuel costs, 1-2 the work. But you must write soon! Getmy
big Home Science Book Free — gives you all the details of my
low price offer. Send post card NOW. Wm. Campbell, Pres.
The Wm. Campbell Co., Dept. 173 , Detroit, Mich.

"THE BEST EVER

reat Bear Spring

BRAND

_ MACARONI

SPAGHETTI-ELBOWS-MORSELS

MASSARO MACARONI CO., Inc.

FULTON, N. Y.

MADE FROM

Highest Grade Durum Semolina
Flour

RICH IN GLUTEN

WITH

"Great Bear'Ture Spring Water

By improved process
In a clean, American Factory

Appetizing— Delicious
Nutritious — Healthful

The Ideal Substitute for Meat

MASSARO MACARONI CO., Inc.
Fulton, N. Y.

Sawyer Crystal Blue Co., N. E. Agtb.
88 Broad Street Boston, Mass.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand for expert assistance in private
and public homes cannot be supplied.
Salaries range from $75 to $100 a month,
or more, with full living expenses, comfortable
quarters, and an average of eight hours a day
"on duty." Professionally trained housekeepers,
placed by us, are given the social recognition due
experts, such as is accorded trained graduate
nurses. Why not?

Here is an excellent opportunity — our new
home-study course for professional housekeepers
will teach you to become an expert in the selec-
tion and preparation of food, in healthful diet
and food values, in marketing and household
accounts, in the management of the cleaning,
laundry work, mending, child care and train-
ing, — in all the manifold - activities of the
home. When you graduate we place you in a
satisfactory position without charge. Some
positions are non-resident, others part-time.

The training is b^sed on our Household Engi-
neering course, with much of our Home Economics
and Lessons in Cooking courses required. Usually
the work can be completed and diploma awarded
in six months, though three years is allowed.
The lessons are wonderfully interesting and just
what every housekeeper ought to have for her own
home. Why not be a $150 per month housekeeper?

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-
ing a v2ry low introductory tuition, and are
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1.500 illus-
trations; — a complete professional library.

This is only one of several professional and
homemakers' courses included in our special offer.
Full details on request.

COUPON

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

Please give information about your Correspondence
Course marked X

Professional Home Maker's

....Graduate Housekeepers' ....Household Engineering

....Institution Management ...Lessons in Cooking

....Lunch Room Management ....Full Home Economics

....Teaching Domestic Science ....Special Food

....Home Demonstrators' ....Special Health

....Practical Nurses' Course ....Special Motherhood

....Dietitians' Course ....Complete Reading]

Name '. _

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose )

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

630

1\U V JLJX 1 10H.xVlll,l\ 1 O

COCONUT

Baker's way is Nature's way. Both use the same delicious,
rich coconut milk to preserve the coconut's full freshness and
flavor. The milk — that's the secret of the success in making
coconut cakes, pies and candies. Baker's is the only canned-
iti-its-own-milk Coconut— all other prepared coconut is dry
and comes in paper cartons or boxes.

And the juicy white meat is already grated for you — tender,
nourishing, delicious. A real treat from the tropics.

FREE Recipe Booklet mailed to
you and friends you mention. Write
for it. Recipe for this most wonder-
ful coconut cake will be found on the.
inner side of the can label.

If Baker's Canned or Dry-Shred
Coconut is not obtainable at your
grocer's, send 20 cents in stamps for
full-size can or package. And please
mention your dealer's name.

THE FRANKLIN BAKER COMPANY
Philadelphia, Pa.

Buy Baker's Dry-Shred Coconut
"if you prefer the old-fashioned
sugar-cured kind in paper cartons

m r

E*TRADRY

• f«t m I !

FREE— a full-size can of Baker's canned-in-its-own-milk .Coconut
will be forwarded to active domestic science teachers and institu-
tion chefs tree of charge. Please make your request on your busi-
jjp <*; l(?ttt*rh£ticl
According to Bulletin No. 28 of the Department of Agriculture.

•'Fresh coconut affords 2760 calories per pound and is second only
to butter and salt pork among the staple foods, as per the following
analysis: Pat, 50.6 per cent; Protein, 5.7 per cent: Carbohydrates.
27.9percent: Ash. 1.7 per cent.
It is a valuable base (non-acid-forming) food.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

631

Dainty, Delicious

Whole Wheat

Spice Cakes

— a treat for
every member
of the family

Try this Tested
S. & P. Recipe

One-half cup butter, one and one-half cups sugar,
one cup fruit or nuts, one egg (beaten light), one
cup thick sour milk, one-third cup rastry flour,
two cups whole wheat flour, one-half teaspoonful
soda, one-half teaspoonful Stickney & Poor's Cinna-
mon, one half teaspoonful Stickney & Poor's Mace,
one-quarter teaspoonful Stickney & Poor's Clove,
one-quarter teaspoonful Stickney & Poor's Allspice.

Cream the butter, gradually teat in the sugar,
then the fruit or nuts (cut or broken in pieces), the
egg, and alternately the milk and flour, sifted with
the soda and spices. Turn the mixture into small
tins: it will take eighteen. Dredge the top of the
mixture with granulated sugar. Bake about
twenty-five minutes. Delicious!

For Every Kind of Goody
Use Stickney & Poor's Products

They will help you to obtain that elusive "just right" flavor in your favorite
recipes. For cakes, puddings, pastries and other delicacies, you'll find Stickney
& Poor's Spices the most satisfactory to use.

Full strength, full weight, flavor and purity! Everything the good cook seeks
in spices she finds in Stickney & Poor's.

It will pay you to discriminate when ordering from your grocer. See that he
gives you Stickney & Poor's products. They never disappoint.

Stickivey & Poor Spice Company

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored - 1920
Mustard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

632

ADVERTISEMENTS

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

633

fiteftape

for SER

lSJ

^y-

RESPECT the retailer who sends your food home in
the Riteshape, for the Riteshape is the most perfect
container for all bulk foods. Made of pure natural wood,
it is sanitary and serviceable in store and in the home.

Good dealers use Riteshapes.

The Oval Wood Dish Company

FACTORY AT TUPPER LAKE, N. Y.

EASTERN OFFICE

now. 40th St.

New York City

WESTERN OFFICE

37 S. Wabash Ave.
Chicago, 111.

Manufacturers of Riteshape Wooden Dishes

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

634

AJJ\ HKllMlAlrUN IS

2 NEW HOUSEHOLD HELPERS

Sent on Seven Days' Free Trial

IV RING

II V TIC

"AV; MF.N7
*IUFI OME

US* :VK

ICK

Save

V3 Your Time
l/4 Your Money

With the help of our new courses
and books, "Household Engineer-
ing" and "Lessons in Cooking.''
One helps with the housekeep-
ing, the other with the cooking,
and they help each other with both.
They reduce the "mechanics of
living" and give you time for
the "joy of living."

Tested and Approved

BOTH "helpers" were planned
for our correspondence stu-
dents, and have been tried out
Price i"soPDdo8?Jeebi4dc EdgeS and P™ved by thousands of home-

rnce #z.:>u, postage i-tc. * ^ - g-*, . ,

makers. 1 hey come to you most Lessons in booking

blCDMJfltS

544 pp., 134 Illus., S\ x 8 in.,
Rich Green i Leather Style,

500 pp., Illus. Half-tone Plates,
Deep Green f Leather Style,
Gold Stamped, Marbled Edges.
Price $2.50. postage 14c.

Household Engineering,

Scientific Management in the Home
By Mrs. Christine Frederic^

1 The Labor-Saving Kitchen

2 Plans and Methods

3 Helpful Household Tools

4 Methods of Cleaning

5 Food and Food Planning

6 Practical Laundry Work

7 Family Finance, Records

8 Efficient Purchasing

9 The Servantless Household
10 Man'g'nt of Houseworkers
1 1 Planning Efficient Homes
12 Health and Efficiency

highly recommended.

Mrs. M. says of L. in C:
"It's like having some one
to help with the work."

Miss S. says of H. E.: "I

have reduced time and

energy, expended one-half,

and I have only just

begun!"

Their new dress in deep green
Fabrikoid, f Morocco style, is
wear and water-proof — de-
signed for service, but very
handsome. You will be proud
of them.

Through Preparation of Meals
By Robinson & Hammel

Twelve (12) Weeks' Menus of 2 1
Meals for each month, with all
recipes and full directions for
preparing each meal.

Twelve (12) Menus and Direc-
tions for Special Dinners,
Luncheons, Suppers, etc.

Twelve (12) Special Articles —
Serving, Dish Washing, Candy
Making, Fireless Cooking,
Kitchen Conveniences, etc.

Twelve (12) Summaries of Food
Values, Ways of Reducing
Costs; also Balanced Diet,
Food Units, Helpful Sugges-

tions, etc.

How they work for you! For years and years, as long as you live! They
never get tired ! They never quit ! And they serve you for only 10 cents a week !

We guarantee our "Helpers" to give satisfac-
tion, and will give, if you are in time, for one year:

MEMBERSHIP FREE

a. All your personal questions answered.

b. All Domestic Science books loaned.

c. Use of our Purchasing Department.

d. Bulletins and Economy Letters.

e. Full credit on our home-study Pro-
fessional or Homemaker's Courses.

American School of Home Economics

MAIL THIS COUPON

! J

503 W. 69th Street,

CHICAGO, ILL.

A. S. H. E., 503 W. 69th Street, Chicago, 111

Send your "Helpers" at once, prepaid,
enclose $5 in full payment (OR), I send 50 cent
(stamps) and will pay $1 per month for fiv<
months. Membership to be included for oni
year.

If I do not like your "Helpers," I wil
return them in seven days, you are to refunc
in full, at once, and I will owe you nothing.

Name

Address _

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

635

HEBE

— the new food pro duct-a
gift from nature and science
-it cuts cost of cooking and
enriches your menu \

Use Hebe for

Bread

Cakes and Buns

Muffins and Biscuits

Custard Pies and Puddings

Griddle Cakes

Custards

and a thousand

other uses.

°^GETABLt*

iS.%% TOTAL 58UQS
T«E HEBE COWPAHV

°"K»S«CH(CAGO- SSATa^5*

#■■

Lfo> AMe in all

Not only for bread, but for muffins
and biscuits, and for fine cakes,
buns, doughnuts, custard pies and
puddings. Hebe is a constant econ-
omy. Hebe enriches your baking.
Hebe enables you to get delightful
results because it is always uniform.
Its quality never varies.

One of the chief values of Hebe in
baking is the perfect balance of
ingredients — pure skimmed milk
evaporated to double strength en-
riched with cocoanut fat. In the
hermetically sealed can it retains its
purity and wholesomeness guarded
so carefully in the process of manu-
facture.

It is convenient, always at hand,
and Hebe will keep several days
after opening if kept in a cool place.

II OW

'Baking

Domestic science experts and teach-
ers of Cookery should be familiar
with Hebe, its economy and many
uses.

Begin to use Hebe today. Use it
in baking and for cream soups,
creamed vegetables, creamed meats,
omelets, custards, salad dressings,
oyster and clam stews.

There are a thousand ways in which
Hebe will save in the cost of living
and at the same time vary and en-
rich your menu.

Order Hebe from your grocer to-
day. And write for the free Hebe
Book of Recipes — Address the
Home Economy Dept. 2315, Con-
sumers Bldg., Chicago.

Chicago THE HEBE COMPANY Seattle

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636

ADVERTISEMENTS

Hand

for the

In your living room, your kitchen, your bedroom, in fact
in every room — you can banish the inconvenience of single
electric light sockets.

No longer need you remove the light to attach your various
appliances — no longer need you be limited to lighter appliance
when you need both. This patented plug turns single sockets
into double workers. Millions in use. Folder on request.

Every Wired Home Needs Three Or More

At Your Dealer's

OPL ^125 EACH

Made Only By

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago New York San Francisco

Benjamin Catalog No. 92

Benjamin No. 2452 Shade Holder enables you to use any shade with your Two- Way

Plug. Price 15 cents.
Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug screws into the socket without twisting cord.

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637

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

P'ONFlITIONS . Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
- to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
Stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

Be the first in your town to Lave these.

You cannot purchase them at the stores.

This shows the jelly turned from the mould
Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription.

This shows mould
(upside down)

Cash Price 75 cents.

••PATTY IRONS'

As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky
pates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv-
ing hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables,
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes
securely packed in an attractive box with recipef
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, foi
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

SILVER'S

SURE CUT

FRENCH FRIED
POTATO CUTTER

One of the most
modern and efficient
kitchen helps ever in-
vented. A big labor
and time saver.

Sent, prepaid, for
one (1) new subscrip-
tion. Cash price 75
cents.

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1)
new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for two

pans.

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.

Boston, Mass.

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638

AJJV^KllbiuVLhJNTS

PREMIUMS

PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES

(Bag not shown id cut)

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made
especially for Bakers and Caterers. Eminently suit-
able for home use.

The set sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE A. M. C.
ORNAMENTER

Rubber pastry bag and
twelve brass tubes, assorted
designs, for cake decorat-
ing. This set is for .fine
work, while the set des
scribed above is for more
general use. Packed in a
wooden box, prepaid, for

two (2) new subscriptions.
Cash price, $1.50

"RAPIDE"
TEA INFUSER

Economic, clean and con-
venient. Sent, prepaid, for
one (1) subscription. Cash
price, 75 cents.

CAKE ORNAMENTING SYRINGE

For the finest cake decorating. Twelve German
silver tubes, fancy designs. Sent, prepaid, for four (4)
new subscriptions, Cash price, $3.00.

The only reliable and sure way to make Candy,
Boiled Frosting, etc., is to use a

THERMOM ETER

Here is just the one you need. Made
especially for the purpose by one of the
largest and best manufacturers in the
country. Sent, postpaid, for two (2)
new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.50

HOME CANDY MAKING
OUTFIT

Thermometer, dipping wire, moulds, and
most of all, a book written by a professional
and practical candy maker for home use. Sent,
prepaid, for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash
price, $3.00.

<^>

FRUIT CUTTER

Cores and splits apples, pears and
quinces into six pieces with one opera-
tion. Silver plated, turned wooden
tray. Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass.

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639

"DEFORE the days of Ivory Soap a bright,
■■-"' clean face often meant tears and a smart-
ing skin.

But now —

Ivory Soap washes tender little cheeks with lather
as velvety and gentle as thistledown.

IYORY SOAP

99 i^ PURE

Another Step Forward

JUST as women, 41 years
ago, were surprised and
delighted with Ivory Soap,
women today are surprised and
delighted with the new Ivory
Soap Flakes. These snowlike
flakes of genuine Ivory Soap
bubble, in warm water, to
"Safe Suds in a Second" for
laundering fine woolens and
silk fabrics. Excellent too, for
the shampoo. You can obtain
a sample package, free, with
directions for laundering fine
fabrics without rubbing, by
sending your name and address
to Dept. 1-C, The Procter A
Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio.

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640

ADVERTISEMENTS

"7h&ts It {-7he Breakfast foocfof7he A/a /ion"

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641

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV APRIL, 1920 No. 9

i "*:

CONTENTS FOR APRIL

PAGE

THE GARDEN LIVING ROOM. Ill Priscilla Porter 651

THE EDGE OF THE OCEAN. 111. Ruth Fargo 655

A LUNCH BASKET ROMANCE . . . Harriet Whitney Symonds 658

THE PROFIT IN A GARDEN Frances E. Gale 661

PLANNING PLEASANT TABLE SERVICE Emma Gary Wallace 663

KITCHEN APRONS I HAVE KNOWN . . . Quincy Germaine 666

THE WOOD-STONE KITCHEN Jean Cox 668

UP IN GRANDMA'S ATTIC Caroline L. Sumner 669

EDITORIALS . . . . \ 670-672

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Mary D: Chambers 673

MENUS FOR WEEK IN APRIL 681

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS 682

THE WIZARD OF THE SOUP-POT .... F. M. Christiansen 683

THE TELEPHONE VOICE Florence L. Tucker 684

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES:— A Vegetable Fracas —
Victory Soup — 'Cooking and Baking with Gas — 'The Fireless
Cooker — Mint — A Good Way to Cook Fish 687

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 692

THE SILVER LINING : . 700

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy Q

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second clats matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

J«

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

642

ADVERTISEMENTS

Faust Chile Spaghetti Au Gratin

Cook 1-2 lb. spaghetti until
done. Put in baking dish.
Add 2 tablespoons bacon
grease, pint tomatoes, table-
spoon Faust Chile Powder
and mix. Sprinkle with
grated cheese, and bake slow-
ly in oven until top is brown.

That indescribably "different taste" between a home-cooked meal
and a meal prepared by a famous chef is merely the difference in the
seasoning of things.

FAUST CHILE POWDER

If your dealer hasn't it in stock now, send 20c to cover cost,
packing and postage of a can of Faust Chile Powder
and Recipe Book.

C. F. Blanke Tea and Coffee Co.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

Manufacturers of the world-famous Faust
Instant Coffee and Tea

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
643

i-\.lVlJ_L<JXXV^^\.l'N VVUJ.Viji\ x

INDEX FOR APRIL

Edge of the Ocean, The
Editorials ....
Garden Living Room, The
Home Ideas and Economies .
Kitchen Aprons I Have Known
Lunch Basket Romance, A
Menus

Planning Pleasant Table Service
Profit in a Garden, The
Silver Lining, The
Telephone Voice, The .
Up in Grandma's Attic
Wizard of the Soup-pot, The
Wood-stone Kitchen, The

PAGE

655
670
651
687
666
658
681, 682
663
661
700
684
669
683
668

SEASONABLE- AND-TESTED RECIPES

Biscuits, Orange, with Filling. 111. .

Blanc Mange, Sea Moss Farine. Ill

Cabbage, Stuffed, au Gratin. 111. ,

Cake, Orange Cream, with Filling.

Cake, Spring, with Boiled Frosting.

Custard, Warsaw .

Filling, Orange

Filling, Orange Cream .

Frosting, Boiled

Haddock Farci. 111.

Lamb, Leg of, Roasted, with Candied

Potatoes. 111. .
Lobster, Casserole of
Mackerel Baked in Vinegar
Omelet, Traveler's

111.
111.

Sweet

678
679
676
678
680
678
678
679
680
674

675
676
674
676

Parfait, Pineapple. 111. .... 677
Pie, Goblet (English) . . . .674

Pie, Sour Cream ..... 679

Pineapple Puff 678

Potatoes, Candied Sweet : . . 675

Pudding, Cherry ..... 680

Pudding, Froth 680

Pudding, A Frugal . . . .678

Salad, Cooked Vegetable. 111. . . 677

Sally Lunn 679

Shortcake, Strawberry. III. . . . 677

Soup, Cream of Asparagus-and-Tomato 673

Soup for the Convalescent . . . 673

Tripe, French Method of Cooking . . 673

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

Beans, Boston Baked

Bread, French Crusty

Bread, Vienna

Cakes, Butter

Candy, Ice Cream, Streaked

Gumbo, Crab

Milk, Tinned

Nougat, Honey

Oranges, Baked

694
696
696
696
694
694
698
696
692

Pie, Chocolate
Pudding, Boiled Indian .
Ravioli, Italian
Salmon, Color in Cooking
Sandwich, Waldorf Special
Sauce, Brown Sugar
Stuffing, Breadcrumb
Toast, Curled

694
698
698
692
692
698
698
692

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

644

ADVERTISEMENTS

Outside Icing

Convenience

and 26 other
Herrick fea-
tures described
in free booklet

T)ay 'Jwas Putin

Fruits and vegetables keep their original freshness for
days and days in the Herrick Refrigerator.

There's no decay, no taint and no mould. There's no
interchange of flavors or odors. The dry, cold air in
constant self -purifying circulation is the reason.

This one food-saving feature of the prize-winning Herrick
is alone worth much. Any Herrick dealer can tell you
other facts.

W rite for name of nearest Herrick dealer

HERRICK REFRIGERATOR COMPANY
204 River Street, Waterloo, Iowa

Don't s'ay} "lee Box1) say 7

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645

/\IV11LIV±V_^-\.1N V^WW1VU1\ 1

The Boston Cooking School
Cook Book

By Fannie Merritt Farmer

FOR many years the acknowledged
leader of all cook books, this New
Edition contains in addition to its fund
of general information, 2,117 recipes, all
of which have been tested at Miss Far-
mer's Boston Cooking School; together
with additional chapters on the Cold-
Pack Method of Canning, on the Drying
of Fruits and Vegetables, and on Food
Values.
jjj illustrations. 600 pages. $2.50 net.

Cooking For Two

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

GIVES in simple and concise style
those things that are essential to the
proper selection and preparation of a
reasonable variety of food for the family
of two individuals. Menus for a week
in each month of the year are included.

" 'Cooking for Two' is exactly what it
purports to be — a handbook for young
housekeepers. The bride who reads this
book need have no fear of making mis-
takes, either in ordering or cooking food
supplies."

— Woman's Home Companion
With 150 illustrations. $2.00 net

Table Service

By Lucy G. Allen

A CLEAR, concise and yet compre-
hensive exposition of the waitress'
duties.

Recommended by the American Li-
brary Association: — "Detailed directions
on the duties of the waitress, including
care of dining room, and of the dishes,
silver and brass, the removal of stains,
directions for laying the table, etc."
Fully Illustrated. $1.50 net

Kitchenette Cookery

By Anna Merritt East

HERE the culinary art is translated
into the simplified terms demanded
by the requirements of modern city life.
The young wife who studies the book
carefully may be able to save herself and
her husband from dining in restaurants.
Miss East, formerly the New House-
keeping Editor of The Ladies' Home
Journal, presents a book which will be
of great value to all city dwellers."
— New York Sun. Illustrated. $1.25 net

Cakes, Pastry & Dessert Dishes

By Janet McKenzie Hill

THIS book covers fully every variety of
this particular branch of cookery.
Each recipe has been tried and tested and
vouched for, and any cook — whether
professional or amateur — need only fol-
low directions exactly to be assured of
successful results.

Illustrated. $2.00 net

Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing
Dish Dainties

By Janet McKenzie Hill

ORE than a hundred different
varieties of salads among the
recipes — salads made of fruit, of fish,
of meat, of vegetables, made to look
pretty in scores of different ways."

— Washington Times.
New Edition. Illustrated. $2.00 net

The Party Book

Invaluable to Every Hostess

By Winnifred Fales and

Mary H. Northend

"TT contains a little of everything about
X parties, from the invitations to the
entertainment, including a good deal about
refreshments." — ■ New York Sun.
With numerous illustrations from photo-
graphs. $2.50 net

"M(

OUR COMPLETE CATALOG OF COOK
BOOKS WILL BE MAILED ON REQUEST

I LITTLE, BROWN & COMPANY Publishers, BOSTON^

3RTTfT17

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646

ADVERTISEMENTS

GOOD COOKERY

means comfort, satisfaction
and happiness in the home.
A good cook book is the
means to this end.

MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK

A marvelous book of 731 pages; 1500 recipes, every one abso-
lutely sure. Valuable and easily understood directions for buying,
preparing, cooking, serving and carving every hind of food.

Bound in cloth, illustrated; price $2.50, by mail, $2.70

Home Candy Making

Here's the way to make Cream and Xut
Confections, Fudge, Mints, Chocolates, Pea-
nut Brittle, Turkish Delight, and lots of
other eatable and enjoyable candies.

Cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents

New Salads

What is more appetizing for lunch and
dinner than a crisp, well-concocted salad?
Here's an abundance of delightful recipes
with trimmings.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

Cakes, Icings and Fillings

A large number of enticing and valuable
recipes for cakes of all sorts.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

Ice Creams, Water Ices, etc.

With this book and a freezer you can
laugh at the high prices of your confectioner.
Recipes for all kinds of Ice Creams, Water
Ices, Sherbets, Sorbets, Sauces, etc.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

My Best 250 Recipes

This book contains Mrs. Rorer's personal
selection of what she considers twenty of the
best things in each department of cookery.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

Dainties

Contains Appetizers, Canapes, Vegetable
and Fruit Cocktails, Cakes, Candies, Creamed
Fruits, Desserts, Puddings, etc.

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10

For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

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647

n i v x J-. xn. x \^i

Cooking

Old Dutch Cleanser quickly and easily cuts the
burnt-in crusts and spattered grease from oven,
drip-pan, porcelain sides, cooking and baking
utensils.

Trimmings and every part of the stove kept
clean and bright with very little labor.

For ALL general housework, Old Dutch goes
further and does better work.

Economical - Thorough - Hygienic

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648

My Native Land

Hills and valleys fair to see,
Rivers deep are flowing,

Forest green with shady nooks
Where the laurel's growing.

Granite rocks lift high their heads,

Waterfalls are tumbling
Down the mountain side so steep

To where the ocean's rumbling.

Waves roll in upon the shore,
Fishing boats draw nigh,

Seagulls, white, with fluttering wings
Float against the sky.

Orchards full of blossoms sweet,

Perfume fills the air,
Homes where truest friends oft meet,

Greetings everywhere —

Native land.

Where'er I roanT,
I long for thee,

My own dear home.

— Edith Louise Farrell

American Cookery

VOL. XXIV

APRIL

No.- 9

The Garden Living Room

By Priscilla Porter

THERE is the sound of revelry
as the orchestra of birds winging
. their flight from the sunny south
reach their northern home. Here,
perched on the branches of the trees,
they pour out their soul in love notes to
their mates. The balmy air of spring
tempts us to fling wide open our windows,
happy in the thought that stern winter
has unshackled the world and summer,
victorious, is on her way. Then, we
glimpse our gardens laid bare by the
melting snow, studying possibilities for
developments later on. Tired of the
flower plot just for display, we consider
transforming it into an out-of-door living
room, a place where we can enjoy close
at hand the fragrance of the sweet
scented blossoms, the study of birds; for
do not flowers, birds and water constitute
the main groundwork for a garden?

There is no reason why we should not
make it a spot after our own heart, like
one of the man-made inside rooms out of
which we step into this, our outdoor liv-
ing room. The lay-out is not a really
simple problem, for it must be designed
with a keen perception of the beautiful.
Many a shabby genteel garden may be-
come alluring by putting a touch of
friendliness into it so that there is a smile
of welcome as you enter. Every kind
of a garden has its problem to deal with.
What a pity that Nature has been so
shockingly unsystematic in her dis-
tribution of soil so that we often wonder
where all that loam prated about in
every, garden book has disappeared to.
Still, as time and garden interests

march onward, we grow to realize that a .
dominant note of color produces a far
better effect than a chromatic scale of,
shades.

The sun lays a little gold spell of happi-
ness on the garden that makes us revel
in the joy of living. Much skill and time
must be expended to get the old, cared-
for, casual atmosphere that your garden
should express. Don't keep putting off
April's work, if March weather continues
to hang on after the first of the month.
There are many things in that month's
program that can be attended to even
in bad weather and the worse it is the
more important to get it finished, real-
izing that fullness of the rush when it
finally breaks.

A CHINESE TEA HOUSE

651

652

AMERICAN COOKERY

Measurements must be taken, cata-
logues consulted, and garden furniture
sought after, that we may be well armed
with an accurate knowledge of the proper
solution of this most important subject,
to fulfil its initial purpose of being a
restful living room. Paths and flowers
must be orderly and trim, the garden
furniture fitting, either rustic or painted
a color that will be adaptable to its
environment, such as forest green or
dainty white, which contrasts so strik-
ingly with the dark foliage of the vines.

It is far better not to overcrowd the
planting just for the sake of having
space covered, for if there is no pergola
or tea house, it gives opportunity for the
garden table and other accessories for tea
serving in the afternoon or early twilight.

The homemaker who plans a garden
should understand the simplicity of
shrubbery planting, whether for orna-
ment or for screen and shelter. The
Tartarian honeysuckle is a shrub well

worth the planting, growing as it does
from eight to ten feet in height. It
forms a perfect wind break, being
gloriously covered with bloom in May,
and if broken at any point, it soon fills
up the gap of its own accord. The
garden may be made beautiful very
largely on account of the taste displayed
in planting; you can spoil it as easily as
you can make it ornamental and it is
important to know whether a screen is
necessary or a low growing, flowering
plant, for some of us need when we are
seated in the open just a little shelter
from the passing breeze, no matter how
soft and gentle it may seem, and others
crave a screen from a very warm sun.
The love of privacy is growing in Amer-
ica and arbors are being constructed
to afford rest and shelter, differing from
the pergola in that it has a greater
freedom of design and the sides and roof
are lighter than those found in the
former.

A TEA HOUSE OVERLOOKING WATER, DEDHAM, MASS.

THE GARDEN LIVING ROOM

653

A JAPANESE TEA HOUSE. TAP ARCHITECT

To make this a true living room in the
open, opportunities for rest should be
provided, such as garden seats and chairs,
while features of interest can be obtained
by special planting or bits of simple,
garden statuary. Most of us cannot
afford marble or even fine terra cotta,
but there is left the poor man's granite-
cement, taking great care that it be not
overdone or crudely molded, obviously
copies of something better; seats that
look hot in summer and cold in winter
and hard all the time, in fancy, every-
thing that appears to be a crass imitation
of a nobler material, for such things give
the garden a bourgeois look that no
amount of care or wealth of bloom can
hide.

Cement, however, can be utilized in
any way that the designer wishes and it
may be any color or finish. It is safer,
nevertheless, to stick to gray and other
neutral hues. It has been definitely
proven that beautiful things can be
produced from this material.

Rustic furniture requires considerable
ingenuity in construction and seldom
has a real claim to beauty except through
its picturesqueness. Cedar and locust

with the bark left on are not only most
durable, bur the most attractive of woods;
although for this purpose cypress, chest-
nut and other varieties give satisfaction.
Wooden furniture, chiefly the white,
painted type that we first imported from
Europe, is much in vogue in our gardens;
where the designs are good and there
are not too many pieces it looks clean,
cool and inviting. Care should be taken
that painted furniture should never be
allowed to become soiled.

Iron furniture is mostly in poor taste,
the designers seemingly running to curly
scrolls and sinuous lines. There is about
it a German beer-garden look that it is
hard to avoid, and it is, at its best, un-
comfortable.

The idea of an outdoor living room is
suggested usually by the use of tables
and seats; the latter invite tarrying
while the former present a vision of tea.
Do not scatter them promiscuously
throughout the garden as if preparing for
a lawn fete; place them, rather, at salient
points with some real plan or design in
mind. Tables seem out of place almost
anywhere except under shaded trees or
vine-clad pergolas.

654

AMERICAN COOKERY

GARDEN SUMMER HOUSE

Seats and table bring to our mind the
arbor as well as the summer, small
living rooms within big rooms. Arches
over paths or arbors at the end afford
splendid opportunities for seat-placing.
These, when covered by vines or climbing
roses, provide shade and a bit of seclusion.
The most popular way for building these
is through the use of white painted lattice
work. Fountains and pools, considered

as a part of garden furnishing, are really
water-garden accessories and possibly do
not fall within the province of an outdoor
living room.

Quick growing vines and annuals must
be used, if the grounds have not been
previously planted. By far the better
type is the perennial garden where certain
combination of plants and vines give im-
mediate effect, at the same time taking
steps towards the establishment of per-
manent growth. The ivy is slow, but
will gradually make a lasting cover for
the tea house, so intermix it with the
luxuriant Dutchman's Pipe that shows
such quick results. Let annuals be used
until the growth of plants that require
a number of years to mature have grown
sufficiently to do away with them.

With all the pomp of barbaric splendor
do the great Oriental poppies flaunt their
bizarre colors for borders, compelling
the attention of the most casual guest.
Rich in warm, glowing colors, the large
peonies seem in unison with Nature,
making a universal appeal. But the
refined, delicate beauty of the iris hidden

A LATTICE TEA HOUSE, MANCHESTER. MASS.

AT THE EDGE OF THE OCEAN

655

from the observer, whose fancy is caught
by the gorgeous, striking beauty, needs
closer acquaintance. Gaze down into
the heart of this flower and find revealed
a wonderful beauty of soft iridescence.
It is hardly necessary to catalogue
everything that rounds out a garden of
this sort. The main point is to furnish
the room effectively and in good taste.
The day of the black iron stag and the
red gypsy kettle has happily passed, but
we have ever with us the human tendency
to put the wrong thing in the wrong

place. The safest rule is to do a little
at a time, making sure the results
are useful, as well as attractive to the
eye.

The perfume of the vine is in the air,
for it is summer and we can no longer
be content within the four walls of our
house. At peep o' day we hasten to the
wide open window that we may look out
over the sunkissed tree tops at the beauti-
ful garden living room below, which seems
to call to us to leave the roof overhead
and come out into the open to live.

At the Edge of the Ocean

By Ruth Fargo

WE left the little river steamer at
Prosper. Why called Prosper
I never knew — perhaps the
name is camouflage, for little is there save
a handful of houses, and a row of piles.
The houses are weather-beaten and
picturesquely ugly; the piles dip long,
slimy sides deep into the bottom mud of
the Coquille River. They even act as
hitching posts for the complacent canoes
that rise and fall periodically with the
tides.

Urged by an impatient impulse we
had put ashore from our steamer; we
would gear up sluggish circulations tramp-
ing up and over a wooded slope, cross-
cut, down to the very edge of the
ocean. We could do it. There was time
a-plenty, so they told us, time before
supper at the Bandon Beach Inn,
whither we were bound. Indeed, it was
Institute Week; teachers must attend.
Such were we. By some blissful streak
of good luck Institute this time had been
located at Bandon-by-the-Sea, a little
salt-seasoned town at the very edge of
the Oregon ocean. And we were coming
a week early merely because of that: a
chance to offer incense at the edge of an
ocean. Such chances do not often come
to the average landlubber.

One long moment we stood on the
water-stained planks of what might
well be the most impromptu pier in all
the world, stood still and watched our
steamer tug away. It would wait the
night at the end of the river, tomorrow
turn up-stream again.

"Look," murmured my companion,
ripples of youth in her voice. She was
staring across the smooth, sunlit surface
of the Coquille River, in its deeper
depths blue as turquoise. "Wouldn't
you think this was some inland sea, some
fairy-fostered lake? Would you ever
guess an ocean boomed just around a
bend? Would you — ■ if you were deaf?''

AT THE EDGE OF OUR OCEAN

656

AMERICAN COOKERY

I laughed. I am older, and more
sedate. Besides, I was born at the edge
of an ocean. But that ocean was three
thousand miles away!

"Oh, no; you never would guess,"
insisted my companion with the un-
quenchable ardor of youth, "if you did
not hear the sound of the surf on the
sands. You could not guess — if you
did not know. Why, it is like putting
faith in fairies to believe an ocean is just
over there."

She made a little gesture in the direc-
tion of the rippling track, silver-edged,
trailing behind our vanishing river boat.

"Smell the salt in the air," I sniffed.
"Notice the sea breeze coming up. It
will be blowing a saucy gale by the time
we reach that sobbing surf," I com-
mented dryly. "You will have to hang
on to your hair."

"Pooh!" scouted my friend. "What
is the use of pinning disquieting tick-
tacks on the end of this beautiful day? —
Don't be a bird of ill omen. Come, if
it blows — ■ it blows."

"Come," echoed I. "True enough,
come. Or we may have to camp under
a fir tree with an ocean fog rolling in
thick enough to walk out on and view the
ether. . . . You don't know what a
late fall fog can do to you."

" Ghostly drifting — saline — pictu r-
esque — " murmured my young poetic
friend.

" Distressingly damp — chill — pene-
trating— " added my practical self.

We passed along our way, stalking a
path through the winter evergreens
which grew more and more short and
gnarled and stunted, looking like gnomes
of tree-land, but marvelously beautiful
withal, down to where we watched the
breakers rolling in, silver-sandaled.

"Go west!" murmured my friend.
"But we can't go any farther than this,
unless we wade, or swim — or charter a
tug." She dropped down on the warm
sand. "Not any farther at all."

"Humph," commented I. "Wait till
the tide goes out. You can walk dry

shod between yonder rocks where the
breakers boom. Don't stare. Miracles
happen every day, my dear, at Bandon-
by-the-Sea."

We stayed a week. And we stayed
another. Who would not, wooed by that
challenging will-o'-the-wisp in a winter's
salt sea breeze?

.... But my companion demurely
contended it was merely because she
must test her camera. (But oceans are
oceans, and I knew better!)

Indeed, the winter brightness did lend
itself to photography. But not so a
winter's fog, which could spread suddenly
in from sea in so many small minutes
like a huge roll of white paper freed from
a confining rubber band, and utterly
spoil the plans of one pretty neophyte
who must tuck her camera under her
arm and tramp back to a stuffy hotel,
feeling chicaned by utterly unmanag-
able conditions. One cannot discipline
a naughty day.

"Better luck tomorrow," soothed I.

"But I must get some pictures,"
mourned my friend.

"Buy some. There's all sorts of cards
at that little book stand — "

"Never," rushed her answer warmly.
'I want some of my own, some that are
perfectly original, and suggestive, and
unstereotyped, and — "

"Full of flaws—"

"And have never been taken before,"
she flared fiercely.

PROSPER, QUIET AS AN INLAND SEA

AT THE EDGE OF THE OCEAN

657

"Pshaw," said I; "they've all been
taken before. There's nothing new under
the sun. Same old ocean — ■ same old
surf — same old sand — "

"Indeed, you are wrong,-" affirmed
she with a penchant for objections, "you
cannot prove, you old stick-in-the-mud,
that anything is the same. Not actu-
ally the same. Except, perhaps, the
Government jetty — and the sea-gulls —
and Tupper's rock — Perhaps," she
swerved suddenly, "you knew him —
Cap'n Tupper?"

I nodded.

"He lived to be ninety," murmured my
companion. "His tract of land is down
the beach, they say, the place where
stone was quarried for the jetty. I
shall certainly snap-shot that jetty."

"Everybody does."

"And the bowlders, too! Oh, I am
going to get my pictures if I have to
wait all winter. Big basaltic bowlders.
Did you know they were so huge? I
feel like a pigmy posed by one. And
see the polish on them! Why, they are
beautifully hand-rubbed like Aunt Em's
upright piano."

Came a chuckle at our elbow. We
turned. It was an old man whom we had
noticed about the hotel, where he seemed
as much at home as a barnacle on a ship
bottom. He scuffed along perfectly
noiselessly on the soft, wet sand, his
hands in his pockets, his shoulders
hunched down into some heavy, formless
jacket.

"Hand-rubbed!" |He chuckled again
his funny chuckle. "Hand-rubbed, eh?
Hand o' Neptune. He, he, he! Ho,
ho, ho!"

Somehow, we felt so young, suddenly
so uninitiated and childish. Had Time
actually turned back the clock and left
us ten again, ten goin' on eleven?

The old man rubbed his jaw, his eyes
caught a whimsical twinkle. "Pretty
powerful hand," he ruminated. "Don't
believe me, eh? . . . Drift along down
to the Caves, half mile on." He con-
sidered. And then: "But don't you

go in 'less the tide's goin' out. They
ain't no submarines on dooty today."

"Does he mean we might need to be
rescuedV' whispered my companion.

But I did not answer, not at once.
I was intent on catching the parting
words of the old man, as he pottered on
down the shining salt sands. They were
these:

"He, he, he! Good ideer t' warn
them school ma'ams. Mebbe the Lord
does take keer o' fools — same as said,
but the ocean don't. Ho, ho, ho!"

Silently we climbed to the top of
Observation Bluff, and stood in muted
wonder watching the sun take his daily
plunge into the blue brine. And curi-
ously our eyes followed the white sea-
gulls, marveling at their graceful dippings
and flutterings as they flirted openly with
the thundering breakers. It had become
our daily rite. We had climbed Obser-
vation Bluff every evening for a week.
For two weeks. And the sight never
grew stale. Sometimes — sometimes —
we glimpsed the dark outline of a ship
far out at sea. And, at last, when
twilight had begun to powder the air,,
we regretfully turned from the ocean and
trekked hurriedly back to our sleepy little
Inn.

Then came the last two days of our
joyous two weeks, two days that winter
had borrowed from spring, so mild they
were, seemingly for our special benefit.

"Just right for a beach bonfire, long
'bout supper time this evening," an-
nounced our landlady that last gay morn-
ing. "Any one who wants any supper
of me will have to come down on the
sand to get it."

We gasped. "I never heard of such
independence in any hotel lady any-
where," whispered my companion. "But
it sounds good — I'm going to be on
hand — down on the sands, about supper
time. What do you suppose she will
give us?"

"Let's go hunt her up. Maybe we
can help — maybe we can cook some-
thing," suggested I.

658

AMERICAN COOKERY

And my suggestion was not without its
lure. "To cook something" — it is the
thing so "eternally feminine" that lurks
in every woman's heart. And it does
not matter if she be five or fifty! . . .
Indeed, at five, I was making mud pies
— ■ and, doubtless, so were you. Playing
at cookery! — what little lassie does not?

And that day, I verily believe, every
woman at the hotel had a hand in pre-
paring something for supper on the
beach. And such a supper as it was!
Such a one who has never supper-ed on
the sands has something yet in store for
him.

Oar noiseless old man of the morning
built the bonfires, big, blazing bonfires
that seemed utterly regardless of fuel;
and yet, after all, no one missed the
sticks we drew from the driftwood, an
acre of which lay beyond us. Beautiful
piles of driftwood, sanded and tattered
and bleached to the softest tints of gray
found anywhere in the world, unless it
be the pastel shades in thinly clouded
skies.

" Wouldn't a room be dainty done in

that delicate shade?" It was a question
that drifted past my senses as we lounged
on the sands that supper-time — ■ and
ate, and ate, and ate! (Nothing like
ocean air, go East or West, to give one
an appetite!) Afterward, I learned that
the query was put by a decorator hailing
from the other side of the continent.
Indeed, she had been born in the same
village as I, and we never should have
met except for that informal supper on
the sands.

That supper on the sands! .... In-
deed, I have eaten of many menus, I have
chosen this and chosen that, I have
cooked in little western kitchens, I have
been served from splendidly laden tables,
here and there and everywhere — just
as have you! and you! and you! — but
nothing clings to my memory with
tendrils of such utter satisfaction as that
one-time supper on the sands, at the very
edge of an ocean, on a certain spring day
kidnapped by Winter. A day made on
purpose for that very special occasion.
Made on purpose for that special occasion
as was the supper our landlady planned.

A Lunch Basket Romance

By Harriet Whitney Symonds

FROM early youth Lucena Cottle had
thirsted in secret for a romance,
and now she was face to face with
her thirtieth birthday and none had come
her way. Nor was the outlook for the
future at all dazzling. Sidetracked by
circumstances^ in the home of her
widowed cousin-in-law, Mrs. Drusilla
Fifer, who took boarders for a liveli-
hood, Lucena had few advantages and
little opportunity to make the most of
her natural charms of person. She was
tall and slim, and with proper draping
might have attained the distinction of
"style"; but Diana's self could scarcely

be stylish in a perpetual brown apron of
the shapeless, flapping bungalow pat-
tern; and what good was pretty brown
hair with a twisty curl born in it, when
prisoned in a serviceable dust cap?
Furthermore, how could one, handicapped
by a disposition both slow and shy, win
the tributes that go to those of a nimble
wit, ready tongue, and easy manner?
that Lucena would have been able
to exercise those fascinations freely,
had she possessed them. Too wary was
the eye Mrs. Drusilla Fifer kept upon her,
and also upon her young men boarders,
to admit of such a course. In these davs

A LUNCH BASKET ROMANCE 659

of maidless kitchens, Lucena was, in a the place of beef; or minced chicken,

domestic sense, priceless; her culinary mingled with gravy; or scrambled egg,

accomplishments were not to be wasted skilfully blended with chopped bacon

upon an outsider — ■ not if Mrs. Fifer of the alluring streak-of-fat-and-streak-

knew her own tenacity of purpose; of-lean kind, served as filling. Indeed,

and not to mention that it would have the variety of Lucena's sandwiches was

shortened her list of boarders by one! something wonderful, for she delighted

However, as it chanced, the rank and in the invention of new combinations at
file of Mrs. Fifer's boarders — slangy frequent intervals. Moreover, the ad-
young clerks, mostly, whose brains ran juncts to the sandwich course were as
to "swell" ties, "grand" movie shows, admirable in iheir way as was the former,
and the like — ■ made slight impression There were jelly tumblers of creamy rice
upon the fancy of Lucena. One, only pudding, and meringue custards, and
one, was there whose stock stood high marvelous mixtures of savory and spicy
with her, and he, sad fact, was as help- things baked in little brown casseroies;
lessly sjiy as she, herself. there were crisp, golden-bronze turn-

Dutton Filbert was not stylish, and overs, fat and bulgy, merely hinting,

his ties never bothered him. He was by a splash or two of candied red or

with an automobile company, and no orange-tinted juice, at the delights of

doubt wore greasy overalls when at their interiors, and cakes, never alike,

work, but he was always neat in the two days in succession, but ranging widely

house, and Lucena liked his twinkling from thin-edged wafers to wedges and

brown eyes, and his good-natured way of triangles of loaf and layer cakes,
taking the world. She also admired his Mr. Filbert fully realized the fact that

freedom from false pride. The other he was a lucky man. He was perfectly

fellows complained — a bit boastfully — ■ aware that Lucena was the genius of the

of the number of "bucks" their down- lunch basket, and countless were the

town lunches cost them; but Mr. Filbert moments when he yearned for an oppor-

cheerfully carried his lunch each day in tunity to express his appreciation of her

a covered brown basket, the same, of artistic work in his behalf. Two things,

course, being duly taken into account in however, stood in the way of this, viz.:

his weekly board bill. his own shyness and Mrs. Fifer's eternal

The task of filling Mr. Filbert's lunch vigilance, for. on the one or two occasions
basket daily was Lucena's, and was one when he had scraped enough boldness to
that she executed with zest. For, of essay a little confidential chat with the
all branches of cuisine duty, the preparing young lady, as a scrap of opportunity
of sandwiches was one she especially offered, Mrs. Fifer had found means to
loved and excelled in. No crude struc- nip it, even before it had attained the
tures of slab-like bread and ragged, proportions of a bud.
gristly meat were those turned out by One happy day Lucena got together
Lucena. Her's — to see them was to a new gingercake that was a dream of
taste them, and to taste them was to joy — a sublimated thing, spice-breath-
call for more. And no day-in-day-out ing, raisin-spotted, of a spongy lightness
sameness of construction dulled the and a delightsome dark red-brown hue.
appetite of the fortunate partaker thereof. She placed two large blocks of this
One day, sliced cold, roast beef, thin, even, gingercake in Mr. Filbert's lunch basket,
finely lean with narrow edging of delicate and when next she overhauled the latter,
fat, nestled between the smooth, daintily she found not so much as an edge or a
buttered slices of white bread and brown, corner left. She did, however, find a
Another day plentiful shavings of sweet, bit of paper folded up in the napkin,
boiled ham, mustard-embellished, took which bore the following tribute:

660

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Oh, gentle lady, who dost make
Such heart-enthralling gingercake,
Accept from me my thanks sincere
For treat the best I've had this year;
I'd like to ask you, if I may,
Please make another one some day."

That night Lucena sat up late, nagging
her brain to produce a reply in kind to
Mr. Filbert's verse. At eleven-thirty,
having chewed the end of a pencil into
splinters, she had ground out this much:

"I'm glad you liked my gingercake;
Some more tomorrow I will bake,
For that's one thing that I can do,
Though I can't write as well as you."

After this outburst the Muse forsook
her entirely, and although she tried very
hard to put two finishing-off lines to it,
she was forced at last to let it go at that.

Two days afterwards, this lyrical
gem shone out of the returned lunch
basket:

"Oh, modest one, please read my lay —
So many things I'd like to say
About the sandwiches you make,
And all the lovely things you bake,
But never do I get a chance,
And hardly from you e'en a glance,
So now, I take this way of telling
The thoughts that in my heart are dwelling.
The lunches you arrange so neatly
Make me esteem you most completely."

To Lucena, this was poetry of rarest
essence. But after a season of futile
struggle to make a suitable poetical
response, she abandoned rhyme and took
to plain free verse.

And now, indeed, had Lucena fallen
upon her romance, a homely one, but
satisfying to her simple heart. Through
the plodding work of the day she had a
bright spot to look forward to in the
moment that brought Mr. Filbert's
lunch basket back to her eager hands,
like a homing carrier dove, and no
heroine of high romance repairing to
some hollow tree for secreted letters from
an ardent lover ever thrilled with sweeter
expectancy than did this humble heroine
as she raised the lid of that plain brown
willow basket each evening.

Little did bustling Mrs. Fifer dream of
the love story that was being woven
immediately beneath her nose, with her

best boarder and her cousin-in-law as
weavers and the brown lunch basket as
a shuttle, until the fabric was too nearly
completed for any effort of hers to ravel
out.

On a beautiful evening in May when
the moon was near to full, Lucena found
in the basket, instead of a poetical tribute,
a piece of forcible prose, which ran thus:

"Dear Miss Lucena:

"Poetry is all right, but rhymes are too
arbitrary to work into what I am going to say
this time. I can't lead gracefully up to a sub-
ject, as some can, so I'll have to plank it out
bluntly, and trust you'll forgive me.

"I took a liking to you the first time I saw
you one nipping cold morning, bringing a heap
of hot flapjacks to the table. There was some-
thing in your face — a pleasant sedateness — I
can't describe it, but somehow, with the edge
of that little cap thing you wore dropping over
your forehead, I thought of a tall, trim, quiet
flower by a brook in the early spring. You
made me think of many other pleasant things,
also; and then, those lunches you put up for me
each day! I simply couldn't help writing that
first verse, and I was scared to death all the
afternoon for fear you'd take it the wrong way
and give me a good slam; but the sweet way
you answered it and my other verses got me to
thinking of you steady, nearly all the time.

"Now, why can't we have a little talk with
each other? Mrs. Fifer doesn't own either you
or me, so why not shake the flag of defiance
square at her and let her go the limit? I will,
if you will. I want you to go out with me tomor-
row after dinner; there's a fine play at the
Hamilton, and several good movie shows; we'll
go wherever you wish. And I'll tell you the
rest of my 'thinks' then. Will you do it?
Put your answer in the basket tomorrow morn-
ing. If it's 'Yes,' I'll be waiting on the front
porch for you soon after dinner. Tell Mrs.
F. where you are going, or not, as you think
best; but I advise having it out at once — like
a bad tooth.

"Think well over what I've said, for I am
desperately in earnest and I don't care who
knows it.

Impatiently yours,-

Dutton Filbert."

In her amazed delight over this letter
Lucena came near putting baking powder
in the hash and pepper in the flour she
was preparing for the next morning's
muffins; and the big clock in the hall
had donged out "One" before she even
closed an eye in slumber. By that time
she had planned a complete course of
action. So she fell happily asleep and
dreamed of tall flowers and lunch baskets

THE PROFIT IN A GARDEN

661

dancing together in the most absurd
fashion.

A bungalow apron, though not beauti-
ful in itself, has more than one point of
excellence, as Lucena admitted on the
afternoon following the receipt of the
lunch-basket letter; for, in its shielding
and concealing protection, she found it
possible to assist in cooking and serving
dinner in her best costume, all unsus-
pected, thereby saving the time she would
have had to spend in dressing.

On the removal of the last dish in
clearing away the table after dinner, she
had but to shed the apron as a locust
does its shell, touch up her hair a bit
and assume coat and scarf, to be equipped
for the evening's outing.

And then, in the flush of her newly-
discovered courage, she walked calmly
away before Drusilla's astounded eyes,
merely observing, easily, "I'm going out
with Mr. Filbert for a while. I'll attend
to the dishes when I come back."

And truly, there was a score to settle
with Drusilla when she did come back,
you can believe my statement. The
latter, stirring up light dough sponge with
indignant energy, pounced upon her as
soon as she showed her head in the
kitchen.

"I don't know as I'm entitled to any
notice," opened up Drusilla, bitingly,
"but if it isn't asking too much, would
you please give me a little hint as to
what this caper means?"

" Drusilla," said Lucena, quietly, "it
isn't worth while to be tragic, nor to be
angry. There isn't anything about it
that I am not ready to tell you. I've
been out to a picture show with Mr.
Filbert. After that, we took a walk and
had a talk; and about the week after
next there'll be a wedding; that's all."

"That's all!" Drusilla dropped her
long-handled spoon and slumped despair-
ingly into a chair. "Oh, indeed! Are
you telling me, Lucena Cottle, that you
and Mr. Filbert are going to be married,
knowing as little of each other as you do?
Why, you aren't even acquainted;
you" — "

"Oh, yes, we are," Lucena averred,
calmly. "We know each other very
well."

"But you can't. I haven't an idea
how you worked the plan of going out
together this evening, but however it
was, that isn't sufficient for you to have
formed a real acquaintance. It's per-
fectly rash to take up with a man that's
almost a stranger to you."

"He isn't one. We've had quite a
courtship."

"I don't know what you call a court-
ship. How and when did it take place,
if I have the privilege of inquiring?'1

Lucena laughed as she slipped into the
old bungalow apron.

"It was all straightforward and right,"
said she, "and it came about through the
medium of the lunch basket."

The Profit in a Garden

By Frances E. Gale

THE Man Who Thinks in Dollars
closed his garage door and strolled
across to the fence dividing his
yard from that of The Man Who Likes
to Grow Things. He went in response
to a signal, and he took a shining new
tool in his hand and examined it with

more condescension than enthusiasm.

"What did that thing cost?" he asked
as he returned it to its owner.

" Seventy-five cents," beamed The
Man Who Likes to Grow Things, "and
it's the best weeder on the market.
Look." He dug into the symmetrical

662

AMERICAN COOKERY

bed at his feet and extracted an invading
weed. "Gets it roots and all. And the
long handle saves stooping. My grand-
father used to have something like this.
He called it a 'spud.' He was a fat man,
too. Guess I get my waistline and my
liking for the soil from him. But I've
pulled in my belt two holes since I
planted those onions, and it'll come in
two more before the summer's over."

The Man Who Thinks in Dollars
laughed.

"See here. Did you ever honestly
figure out what those carrots over there
will cost you?"

"No, I didn't. And I don't intend to.
Why? Because the cost isn't worth
considering. The profit's big and sure."

The Man Who Thinks in Dollars looked
argumentative. He took from his pocket
a pad and pencil.

"I figured on this thing when this
gardening craze started, and I said to
myself: 'No. I'll use my time and
money some other way until the price of
vegetables goes higher than it is now.'
Look at this. It took a man an hour to
dig that bed, and you paid him fifty
cents, didn't you?"

"I did not," said The Man Who Likes
to Grow Things. "I dug it myself."

"Well, your time is as valuable as a
digger's, isn't it? Then your seed cost
twenty-five cents, and the cultivator
you showed me the other day cost fifty,
and that tool in your hand cost seventy-
five. That totals #1.95. I'm merely
tacking these items on the carrots be-
cause the other expenses could be dis-
tributed over the other vegetables in the
same proportion with about the same
result. That bed will produce, if it crops
well, about two bushels. Last winter
carrots sold for two dollars a bushel.
Now, where is your profit for your sum-
mer's work?"

The Man Who Likes to Grow Things
leaned his back against the fence, rested
his chin on the handle of his new weeder,
and let his eyes rove over his soldierly
beets, his feathery carrots, his satiny

onions, his swelling corn, his sturdy
cabbages, his blushing tomatoes, and all
the other developing things that Mother
Earth held crooningly in her arms as she
lay smiling up at him in the sunshine.

The Man Who Likes to Grow Things,
although something of a poet, as his kind
always is, had less facility with words
than with weeders, and besides he knew
that to The Man Who Thinks in Dollars
some words carry no meaning. So he
arranged his thoughts very carefully
before he said:

"You hold that what I spend on seed,
tools, occasional help, and the value of
my own time would buy more vegetables
than I can produce."

"I do."

"And you may be right — ■ providing
I'm the only deserter in the army of
producers. If the other fellows, by
sweating in the sun, keep prices of garden
stuff from following bread and meat, I
can reap the benefit. But I'm not
digging and hoeing and weeding and
watering merely to grow stuff for my own
table. Perhaps I'm growing it to feed
people whose bones are sticking through
their skin and who haven't had a square
meal in years."

"Why don't you send the money the
raising of this stuff costs?"

"Money's not edible. There are chil-
dren in this world who'd rather have a
bowl of beans than a bowl of silver
dollars. If the beans are missing, the
dollars might as well be jackstones. If
I don't produce beans., my children can
get beans from the grocer, but he will
have a dish of beans less to sell to some
other non-producer's family, who in turn
will buy from some other grocer, and so
on, and, the world's stock being lessened
by one dish of beans that my well-fed
children have eaten, one mouth some-
where will go without a meal. The road
between cause and effect may be long,
but if I fail to produce my dish of beans,
there's bound to be a dish of beans
missing somewhere. That's the economic
side of it. What has that to do with'my

PLEASANT TABLE SERVICE

663

profit? There's profit for me in knowing
that the law of supply and demand,
twisted as its course may be, must
finally put every bean, carrot, cabbage,
cauliflower and ear of corn that I raise,
or their equivalent, into a stomach that
otherwise would ache for food. How-
ever, I have my profit long before that
result is reached."

"Figure it out," persisted The Man
Who Thinks in Dollars, proffering his
pad and pencil.

The Man Who Likes to Grow Things
shook his head.

"It can't be done by that sort of
arithmetic.

"Did you ever get up on an early April
morning and walk around your yard and
see the bare, brown earth, just out of its
snow covering, waiting for you? If you
listen you can hear it saying: 'Take me
into partnership. Between us we can
work miracles. We can create.' After
you have heard that voice every shovel-
ful of soil you turn brings up its own
dividends of pleasant anticipation and
self-respect. Nature is your partner
in a business that is at the very source of
things, a business without which no other
business could exist. Then, when the
seeds are planted, having done your first
bit, you must stand aside a while, waiting
for other forces to take up the work.
You are at the border line where the
powers of man and of God meet, and
presently a New Thing pushes its way
up into the light and becomes a part of
the life of the world. Profit! A man

who would sit down and reckon his
possible profit, when he saw the first
young green of his own lettuce in the
spring, would demand to be paid in ad-
vance for his baby's keep, when he first
felt its hand curl around his finger.

"Then, as each group appears above
ground, active partnership begins again.
The growing things need help, encourage-
ment, protection, and they give so much
joyful appreciation in return that the
first bunch of radishes you carry into the
house bears no more likeness to those
for which you pay a dime than the face
of your three months' old girl to that of
the baby you pass in the street. What
if the grocer's radishes are as plump and
crisp as yours ? Do you test all Creation
with your teeth?

" Profits ! No, I've never ' figured them
out,' but I know my garden pays divi-
dends every day — dividends of health,
dividends of education, dividends of
wonder, dividends of hope, dividends of
faith. When things look blackest, it
brings me a message of 'All's well!' from
the Unseen World. And having paid
those invisible profits it pays a visible
dividend of good, wholesome food for my
family, fresh from the ground in summer
and safe in cans for the winter."

"Don't you think," suggested The
Man Who Thinks in Dollars, not trying
to conceal a yawn, "that you'd better get
a typewriter and write a book?"

"No," said The Man Who Likes to
Grow Things, " I'd rather get a hoe. The
corn needs hilling up."

Planning Pleasant Table Service

By Emma Gary Wallace

IF there is anything that is dis-
couraging to a careful housewife,
it is to take infinite pains with the
preparation of a meal, and then to have
the one or ones who serve the food or

assist in the serving, make awkward
work of it or spoil its appearance.

Not very long ago, the writer was in an
attractive home, and after the evening
dinner, the mistress of the house con-

664

AMERICAN COOKERY

fided in a voice dangerously near to
tears, that her husband and her son
rather scorned taking pains with the
serving of a meal, insisting that the food
itself was what counted more than how
it was carved or dished out.

As I recalled how Mr. Martin had
haggled the roast and had soiled the
cloth about the platter; and how hand-
some, nineteen-year-old Colby had
dragged the mashed turnip over the side
of the serving dish to his own plate — I
understood and sympathized with my
hostess. That is, I sympathized, at
first, but after I came to think about it,
I decided that she was quite as much to
blame as husband and son, and that her
own lack of resourcefulness in remedying
so simple a situation cancelled her right
to any sympathy at all.

As I helped her pack up the dishes for
the maid-by-the-hour who was to come
in to wash them, I noticed that the carv-
ing knife was as dull as a hoe. No one
could carve anything skilfully with
it. I called Edith Martin's attention
to this fact gently and she said with a
resigned air,

"Yes, isn't it awful! I never can get
Frank to sharpen the knives, unless I
keep at him until I am sick of it!"

"But," I replied spiritedly, "Frank has
to leave home at 7.30 in the morning to
make the office in time, and he doesn't
get home until 6.30 at night. I'd never
wait for him to do it, if I were you. I'd
get Colby to sharpen them, or take
them some place to be sharpened. By
the time Frank has carved with a knife
sufficiently sharp and in good condition
for six months, he'd never be satisfied
to use a dull knife again. Educate him
to having things right and get Colby to
aid and abet you. Think what it'll
mean to the lad when he gets a home of
his own!

"Then, Edith," I continued, "I can't
help but sympathize a little farther with
Frank. That was a delicious fresh pork
shoulder, but a shoulder is very difficult
to carve nicely at any time, because the

bone is so large and the depth of meat
upon it rather shallow. Now, if you
really have a sharp knife to work with,
you can take the bone out yourself in
ten minutes; or, if you think when you are
buying the meat, your meat man will
take it out for you and send it home, so
you can use it in the stock pot. Then the
pieces of dry bread, which are sure to
accumulate, will make a nice dressing
with which to stuff the boned roast; or
you can simply roll it and tie it, and you
have a solid piece of meat to handle.
If you will put your roast upon a larger
platter, and give Frank a sharp knife,
you'll find he will be more skillful."

"That platter was rather small,"
Edith said thoughtfully. "It hadn't
occurred to me before.

"But," she said, brightening up, de-
termined not to give Frank too much
credit, "my husband never seems to
know which way of the grain to cut
meat. I've told him and told him, and
he nearly always starts in just -opposite
from what he should."

"Perhaps," I defended again, "no one
has ever explained the difference to him.
Why don't you get him to go with you to
market sometime, when he has a vacation,
and get the market man to explain to
him something about the cuts and the
way they should be served, for meat goes
so much farther and tastes so much better
when it is properly cut."

Edith nodded in agreement.

"I've thought of doing that myself,"
she said, "but even when a steak is put
in front of Frank, he is just as likely to
give the tough end to a guest as the
tenderest tidbit."

"Now see here," I exclaimed, "Edith
Martin, you are not going to make me
believe that Frank isn't just as brilliant
as the next fellow! He never could have
made the record in a business or scientific
way that he has, if he had lacked mental
ability. The chances are you have never
explained to him the difference in the
parts of a steak, but have expected him to
know by intuition. Sometime when you

PLEASANT TABLE SERVICE

665

are alone, show him the steak before you
fry it, and let him take hold of it and see
how much tougher part of the fibres are
than others. Then, if a steak is care-
fully trimmed, there is really not so
much difference. Do your part, Edith,
and I believe Frank will do his."

She laughed.

"What would you do, if Colby dragged
the mashed potato or turnip over the edge
of the nappy dish, in place of lifting it out
with a spoon? I have told him dozens of
times about that, but he persists in serving
it in his own way and says that I am fussy."

Edith's cheeks were burning. I could
see that she really had had some troubles
of her own to deal with.

" Of course," I said gaily, " it's lots easier
to advise other people than to solve the
problem one's self, but I think I should
handle Colby in this way.

"I should invite some of his friends to
dinner from time to time. I don't mean
make a party, but have one or two in,
when it is convenient, and he will enjoy
it. Before you have them come, let
Colby see that you are doing your best
to treat his friends handsomely, and ask
him to take special pains in serving his
part of the food nicely. I am sure he will
respect your wishes.

"Then, I believe that as a family, you
are rather inclined to eat over-much at
home. It would do you good to get out
occasionally, and have a meal else-
where. Remember, I am not advocating
that you become gadabouts or spend-
thrifts, but once in a while, it would be a
real relief for you to be free from meal
getting, and would do Frank and Colby
good to have a change.

"Don't go to a cheap eating place, but
afford yourself a real treat, in the way of
an outing, with nice food, properly
served. The boy is as keen as a briar,
and will soon notice how much the ap-
pearance counts. Then, too, if you in-
vite some friends of his in, he will
receive return invitations, and he will
observe that in good families, the table
service is easy but correct.

"Then, if I were you, I would not spare
effort to have one or two dainty and
rather unusual dishes every day at the
home table. I don't mean to make a lot
of fussy food, but rather to take pains to
have some of the viands especially at-
tractive. Now, a fruit salad put in - a
bowl and passed, is a very ordinary dish.
Take the same materials, dress these
daintily with mayonnaise and whipped
cream, and serve on crisp lettuce, and
garnish with a cherry and a few nuts,
and the common meal becomes a banquet.

"In many homes, the individual service
in ramekins, small casseroles, custard
cups, and so on, is almost replacing the
larger serving dishes, because of the
greater attractiveness in the way of neat-
ness at the table.

"Then in some homes, the shortage
of help has made the housekeeper her-
self a little careless, for naturally the
woman who gets her own meals, and does
her own work, is rather fagged when
everything is ready to serve, but a small
expenditure in the way of a muffin-stand
or a tea-wagon will make it possible to
clear the table and remove everything
between courses without the least trouble.
It pays, too, in point of keeping up the
family standards of refinement."

"I have always wanted a tea-wagon,"
Edith burst out, "but it seemed like an
extravagance."

"It really isn't," I assured her, "for
it saves you steps and keeps you good-
natured and sweet.

" In my own home, when I am prepar-
ing food for the table, I always try to
visualize how it will look when it is
placed before those who are to eat it.
A cream pie that flattens all over the
plate and leaves the crust empty, is not
appetizing, and it is just as easy and much
more satisfactory to follow a tested recipe
and to have a cream pie that stands
up and is rich and toothsome and shapely.

"Take a dish of hash, for instance.
Some will make hash so that the very
sight of it causes your stomach to revolt,
and others will prepare it so that the

666

AMERICAN COOKERY

savory odor and crispy brown appear-
ance tempt the appetite. So, all in all,
I think it is quite as much up to us who
are preparing the meals and keeping the
utensils in order, as it is to those who
actually do the last minute serving.
Naturally we realize the importance, as
they do not, of offering the food in the
most pleasing manner, but a little tact-

fully directed education will go a long
way in helping make meal times restful
and a delight in every sense of the word."

"I believe you are right," Edith said
thoughtfully. "As usual, when we find
fault with other folks, we can trace the
trouble back to ourselves, can't we?"

And I was obliged to agree that Edith
was right.

Kitchen Aprons I Have Known

By Quincy Germaine

ONCE upon a time my grand-
mother had a cook. {A cook,
if you please! Not five or six
per month.) Her name was Maggie.
She had come in her somewhat indefi-
nitely remote youth, and she stayed
until she acquired a pension. But of
these things I was told; my memory of
her holds only one detail. It is of the
slippery, creaseless, greaseless, albeit
hideous thing in which she enveloped
herself. Whether nowadays it would
go by the name of "bungalow apron"
I am not sure, since these latter can
be made to cover so many purposes.
Possibly it may have been a "tire," but
that is immaterial. I recall only its
glory and its majesty. It was Maggie's
imperial robe of office and she wore it
like a queen.

The kitchen where she reigned was
sunny, with cross-currents of air playing
from east to west and causing the motes
to dance along the darkly polished floor.
There was a pump, too, and an enor-
mous range, a rocking chair, and Maggie.
Always there was Maggie. And always
in my memories of the cookie-box, the
beanpot, the piles of doughnuts, the
"yard of pies" is the picture of Maggie
in the atrocity she wore. For it was the
color of the beanpot, of the molasses, of
the brown sugar, of the Bristol brick.

According to its age and length of service
only did its color change. Not all the
cookies in Christendom could assuage
the insult it offered to my sensibilities
in those days. Time has not softened
the recollection even now.

At about the same time my great-
aunt had a Bridget. She was as spare
of form as Maggie was ample. Her
covering was gray, picked out with white,
like an elephant's hide sprinkled with
dust. Requiescant in pace! I loved you
both, but oh, how I did hate your aprons!

Then followed the period, before I was
tall enough to reach the sink without the
aid of box or stool, when I endured the
misery of strings tied about my neck,
while a baggy covering cut for adult
proportions impeded my every move.
If the strings didn't come untied, the
thing usually tripped me when I de-
scended from my stool. If I didn't
thereby cause a barn-door tear, prob-
ably I did jerk the gathers from the
binding. For my mother's aprons were
nearly all gathered upon a belt. They
were checkered, — blue — pink, — black,
although one that has come down to me
has little interlocking rings. All of them,
however, only covered one's lap, after one
grew up to them, that is. They kept
my mother and visiting aunts immacu-
late. Ah, where are the cooks of yes-

KITCHEN APRONS

667

terday? — -as Francois Villon might have
said and didn't.

Fifteen years ago, when the oldest
cousin was married, she was deluged with
the sleeveless, neckless overall that is so
common now. Likewise were many ex-
quisite white linen "gowns," with long
prim sleeves and square-cut necks, —
just the thing to set off the charm of a
happy bride. These " gowns" had a
stringlike belt and fastened with two
buttons in the back. Oh, exquisite be-
yond compare! Cool, clean and prac-
tical!

But have you ever tried to dress a
chicken in one of them? I don't mean
the question literally, for no real chicken
could survive the ordeal of a yellow
scrawny neck against the modishness of
white linen cut to fit. I mean "dress"
in the good old-fashioned sense, —
plucking, scooping out, scrubbing, draw-
ing and all. (You city housewives will
not realize the tragedy until your butcher
fails you. If he already has, I do not
need to elucidate.)

I caught my cousin that way, once.
And when I laughed she sat right down
and cried. I am fond of that cousin and
meant her no hurt, but her apron did
look like a Roman holiday.

Wherefore in my own kitchen plain
white linen is taboo, although for dining-
room purposes it is compulsory. The
other garments I inherited come forth
only upon demand, — and no one does
demand them, when they see what I offer
as alternative.

Chintz is my solution for the horrors of

the past, and the perplexities of the
present. If I can establish a cult upon
this theory the future will be more beau-
tiful, at least. The slippery surface of
my chintz aprons rivals anything Maggie
or Bridget wore. The flowered, vari-
colored patterns make mockery of the
camouflage that the checkered coverings
never did achieve. No white linen
washes better than does chintz, which
has the added virtue of not growing
dingier whenever it comes out of the
machine or tub.

Remember what I say when next you
go to town. Wisteria, roses and honey-
suckle look better than polka dots and
rings. Deny it if you dare! It takes
no more to make an Apron Beautiful
than in the other style. It takes no
more, and miraculously it costs a little
less. Try it and see whether I am right
or wrong. (Haven't you some ancient
horror that you never thought about till
now? Bring it out and look at it!)

You've doubtless heard the adage,
"Clothes make the man," perhaps have
applied it to yourself, — in your leisure
hours. Carry it further, preferably on
a bleak, rainy day. Instead of a drab,
indefinite, sleezy rag, shake out a riot of
chrysanthemums when you start to work.
Pink or yellow or red, it makes no differ-
ence in that respect, though they'll be
most satisfactory if they riot on black,
or black and white. Something of their
joy goes into the beating of the cake,
something of the color gets into your own
soul, and soon beyond a doubt you'll
hum a fox-trot as you come and go.

1 WONDER if other housekeepers have
discovered the varied uses of the
gas oven! It took me some time to
do so.

My gas range, a medium sized one, has
the usual number of holes, but these
proved insufficient when I was getting
more elaborate meals. Then I began to
use my oven, starting the vegetables on
top of the stove, then putting them in the

oven, along with the roast, to finish
cooking there. Two or three small sauce
pans can be accommodated in the
average oven, and carrots, tomatoes and
the canned vegetables, which need less
cooking, boil away cheerfully in the oven
recesses. Oven cooking simplified my
problems, and enabled me to serve my
dinners and lunches more quickly as well
as more easily. A. T. F.

The Wood Stone Kitchen

By Jean Cox

Y kitchen," said Mrs. M., as opened the doors of the lower cupboard

she showed us her new home,
"is the most easily cleaned
kitchen I know. The walls are covered
with heavy muslin and have been given
four coats of paint. The last two are
enamel, which gives a surface that re-
sponds readily to this new cleaning fluid
I have."

Suiting the action to the word, she
placed a little of the reddish liquid on a
damp cloth and the kitchen grime
seemed to disappear as if by magic.

"You see," she continued, "it takes
only a short time to go over the entire
painted surface, and," she added, "it
doesn't take the life out of the enamel
nor the skin off the hands."

Next to the kitchen door stood the
refrigerator which, with its pale gray
enamel coat had become a part of the
room. It was elevated about 10 inches
from the floor with a wide drawer under-
neath in which were kept picnic-luncheon
supplies, wrapping paper and cord. The
ice box of the refrigerator opened on the
back door platform so that the ice man
need be only a "silent partner."

"My slogan of cupboard cleaning," she
continued as she opened the cupboard
door, "is prevention. The rabbeted
edges of doors and drawers successfully
keep out greasy vapors, smoke and dust.

and showed us how the tray slipped in on
a rack underneath the work table of the
dish cupboard.

"What a splendid idea," we cried, for
we saw the utilization of ordinary waste
space above the dishes in the lower
cupboard as well as the possibilities of
storing an expensive tray without danger
of marring or scratching its surface.

"I think I can be justly proud of my
sink," she smiled. "It is large enough to
hold two dish pans and this adjustable
faucet extension gives me hot, cold, or
warm water in either pan. The height of
the sink is right for our needs, and hang-
ing the most used utensils over it makes
it easy to clean up as you go. The view
of those ever-changing mountains from
the window is sufficient incentive to
Mary to give the window a little extra
scouring."

When she opened the doors of the
storage cupboard at the right of the
sink, I realized what careful planning
meant in kitchen efficiency. Shelves
and bins were just right. The inside of
the door where baking supplies were
kept served as the back of a group of
small shelves about four inches deep
on which were placed baking powder,
raisins, spices, flavoring. The narrow
space made these easily accessible with-

My dish cupboard is at the left of out fumbling.

the sink where dishes are easily put into
place without extra steps or lost motion.
The shelves are adjustable so that we do
not have to stack dishes and then be
annoyed by wanting the one at the
bottom of the pile. I have, at least, one
more shelf," she added, "than the
average cupboard affords and I find that
the spaces suitable to the different kinds
of dishes are not too small.

"Have you found a better place for
your tray than this?" she asked as she

At the top of this cupboard were bins
that receded behind the shelves of
different widths which held other baking
supplies. Flour and sugar were ob-
tained through the opening just over the
work table, which was also of wood-stone
and finished the sanitary, work-table
unit from side of refrigerator to east
wall.

An extra table, containing more storage
space and which enlarged when neces-
sary with folding leaves of wood, filled

668

THE WOOD-STONE KITCHEN

669

in the space between baking supply cup-
board and stove.

'The space under my gas range is also
utilized," she explained as she opened the
door of the cupboard box and displayed
dust-proof wooden space for large roast-
ing and large dripping pans, etc.

The doors leading to the dining-room
and basement were unusually well placed
as there was little recrossing between
stove and door and dish cupboard and
door. "In case large crowds are to be
entertained," she told us, "guests can
be ushered downstairs to the children's
attractive playroom where refreshments
may be served."

On the whole this wood-stone kitchen
was unusually attractive. The wood-

stone floor having a gray border slightly-
lighter than the center of the room
seemed quite dressed up. The light tone of
the border faded into lighter wall tints as
there were no base boards to catch dust.

"This floor is a joy," my hostess ex-
plained. "It is soft as wood to the feet,
not more expensive than a wood floor
covered with good linoleum and, when
waxed occasionally, it is much more
easily cleaned than linoleum or tile.
Broom and mop seem to slide over the
waxed surface."

Lest I be an unbeliever, she took the
broom out of the cleaning closet in the
corner and asked me to convince myself.
The broom did seem fairly to glide over
the surface and the dirt with it.

Up in Grandma's Attic

Up in Grandma's dusky attic folded carefully

away
Sacred heirlooms of life's romance year on year
unaltered lay,
Trousseau of old silks and laces,
Wrapped in filmy tissue cases,
Breathing shadowy tales of Grandma's wedding
bells of long ago.

What a tale their folds could tell us, if they only-
had a voice,
How we long to know their secrets so that we too
may rejoice —
Was there happiness or sorrow
With a glad or sad tomorrow
For the blue eyed, blushing maiden with a heart
of purest gold?

Grandma, with her locks of silver pinioned by

her silken cap,
Telling stories of her childhood as we sat upon
her lap —
Smiling always so serenely,
In a manner gentle, queenly,
Proved to us in fullest measure love had been her
lifelong joy.

— Caroline L. Sumner.

670

AMERICAN COOKERY

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BOSTON COOKING- SCHOOL
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A Memory

Too beautiful she was to tarry long,

Yet I can thank the stars I saw her face

And learned from her the majesty of song,
And learned of glory from her lovely grace.

Before she came the world was but as dross;

Her coming made it something holy, sweet;
And when she went, in counting up the loss,

I held it holy still, though incomplete.

Yea, holy still because it holds her husk,
And incomplete because her soul is flown;

Yet, sitting here within the haunted dusk,
I can but feel she makes the world her own.

She seems a part of every beauty seen;

Her breath is felt when fragrant winds do pass;
Her eyes look out from dewy branches green;

Her feet bend down the newly sprouted grass.

And so, companion world, I love you well,
Not for yourself, but for a bright day dead;

For hints of paradise that in you dwell,
For glory gone and for a dream unsaid.

— Laura Blackburn.

An Idealist

Little Bobbie: "Pa, what
idealist?"

Father: "An idealist, my son, is an
optimist who has lost his compass."

PROPAGANDISE!

WE like neither the word nor the
process for which it stands. The
method of reformation it suggests has
become odious. Pacifism, socialism, Bol-
shevism, all indicate a single line of
procedure and lead straightway to
anarchy and chaos. "Bolshevism is
Socialism in action. That is its true
definition." Certainly no one of these
words can be said in any wise to be
suggestive of patriotism. Some one has
said we could bear the wiping out of
most of the "isms" of today, but what
of patriotism? Could we afford to wipe
out that, also?

We have been wont to associate propa-
gandism with missionary work, the spread
of the gospel tidings, free, without money
and without price, to all parts of the
earth. Widespread moral or spiritual
well-being was the object sought. At
any rate, the effort was a free-will offering
and the acceptance of it was voluntary.
And yet, even the missionary spirit
has not received universal approval.
But what can be said in favor of the
political, social, anarchistic propaganda
so prevalent everywhere in these latter
days? Hired agitators are moving
stealthily to and fro on the earth with
malicious intent to undermine and sub-
vert the existing governments of the
world — to scatter and destroy all that
civilization so far has achieved. The
people of Europe, it would seem, have
enough to do at home, and need all their
strength and resources to build up the
places laid waste by war, and to feed and
clothe the destitute and hungry masses
of their own countrymen.

Small wonder is it then that propa-
gandism has become hateful! We be-
lieve a people or a nation should exert
influence chiefly through example. To
know how to mind one's business and
make a success of it is a virtue. Other
people, se'eing a good thing, are likely to
imitate and adapt it, respectfully, to
their own advantage. This is what

EDITORIALS

671

Japan, for instance, seems to be practicing
today. Wherever she finds a thing of
worth, she proceeds to avail herself of
the discovery and to make use of it in
her own governmental affairs. This way
lies progress and reform. Experience and
example are safe guides to instruction.

"PARLOR SOCIALISTS AND AFTER-
TEA PHILOSOPHERS"

WE are tired of reading and listening
to apologies for the evil doings of
malcontents and anarchists, such as are
now being imposed on a long-suffering
public. "There is no such thing as
mental or moral neutrality; there is no
evasion of commitment to one or another
sovereign moral ideal." "He that is
not with me is against me." Certain
facts and truths, like these, must be met
face to face and a stand taken on the
right hand or on the left. "Choose ye
this day whom ye will serve." Can
there be any greater sin than "giving
aid and comfort to the enemy"? True
patriotism and religion are nearly akin;
they cannot be separated. Tested by
the golden rule the statement holds good.
"Righteousness exalteth a nation; but
sin is a reproach to any people."

In a careful study of the whole matter,
what is the conclusion that must be
reached ?

"It is that Socialism, under any of its
names — ■ Bolshevism, Syndicalism, Com-
munism and I. W. W.ism — is the oppo-
site of all those things that stand for and
represent the highest ideals of life. It
is the doctrine of strife and hatred among
men. It is the wedge of dissolution for
republican institutions of freedom. It
is the doctrine of chaos, and opposed to
that of the Fatherhood of God and the
Brotherhood of man."

I- HIGH PRICES AGAIN

POLITICAL economy, domestic eco-
nomics, general suffrage, education,
etc., are of equal concern to both men
and women. Whatever affects home life
should be of especial interest to women.

The cost of food and clothing, the price
of labor and rent affect the home as do
few other things. It is up to woman to
enlarge her views and deepen her interest
in all matters that are perplexing life
in these days of readjustment and
restoration.

May not women be largely responsible
for the high prices that are at present
prevailing? Take shoes, for instance.
The present exorbitant prices of shoes
will drop when women demand a cheaper,
more sensible and more comfortable
style of shoe. It is safe to say more than
one-half the price of fancy shoes today
goes into the pockets of the profiteers.
The higher the price the larger the profit.
The same is true of high-priced, fanciful
clothing. What most people are now
looking for are garments neither of
shoddy nor of soft fabrics and fancy
weaves, but well-made garments of genu-
ine, substantial quality and at non-
fictitious prices. The fineness of the
material is of minor importance. At
least buyers want the privilege of choice.

AN AMERICAN PLATFORM

FROM widely separated portions of
this country are audible faint chirp-
ings of many gentlemen of both parties,
all in receptive mood in regard to the
greatest, the gravest, the most respon-
sible and most terrible job that any man
can have on the earth today — ■ the
Presidency of the United States of
America. We do not venture to choose
that man, nor to choose a party for him,
but we do venture to choose a platform
for both — and to write it here. It is a
platform upon which we believe the next
President of the United States can be
elected. If, thereafter, he prove big
enough to live up to the platform he can
write himself the third, perhaps the
second greatest President this republic
ever has had.

Our platform has four planks. These
planks are America, Law, Order, Work.
Taken together, these spell no more than
common s,ense. Taken together, they

672

AMERICAN COOKERY

automatically will end hysteria. We
think they also automatically will dis-
pose of the question of which shall
occupy the grave — ■ Europeanism or
Americanism. We are disposed, our-
selves, to assign the role of the deceased
to the former. It is time we buried
anarchy in America and opened up a new
country to actual law, actual order and
actual work.

Pray observe, there is no labor plank
in this platform. There is a better word.
It means much that "labor" does not
mean today. It is a short word, but
one of the biggest and best in our lan-
guage — Work ! — The Saturday Evening
Post.

CHILDREN AND THE STATE

Children are the life blood of the State.
They are better producers of energy than
coal or wood; they are better than steam
or electricity. So, surely, they are much
more worth the best study and considera-
tion of the most eminent scientists and
engineers than the wings of moths or
some improvements in a differential. —
Judge Ben. Lindsay.

The Abiding

Across the summer sea the stars

Shall ply a flashing oar,
And down the hill trails day shall go,

Returning never more.

The Spring shall wake to lyric song

The hidden minstrel brooks;
The honey-bee shall woo the rose

In secret forest nooks.

And you and I shall watch the stars
Bright faring through the blue,

Hear brooks sing down the valley ways,
And watch the wild bee woo.

We'll see the Autumn set his watch

Upon the crimson peaks;
And learn at last that each shall lose

The single goal he seeks.

We'll see the roses drift away,

The voiceless birds depart,
And find that love alone remains

Unchanging in the heart!

— Arthur Wallace Peach.

EDITORIAL NOTES

Send for a sample copy of American
Cookery and find in it the very culinary
help you have been looking for.

If you see an advertisement of this
magazine anywhere, note the offer made
there and give it a trial. It will not
prove a venture. You will be glad of
your discovery.

A friend in Ontario, Canada, who has
taken the magazine for fifteen years,
writes for terms to continue her sub-
scription in connection with two or more
of her friends. This woman evidently
knows a good thing and how to secure it.

Once more a great storm has delayed
the mailing of the magazine. However,
we have not missed an issue. From now
on we hope the conditions of publication
and transportation will be more favorable.

Do not become discouraged; we will
pull together and arrive at our destina-
tion in due time. We propose to make
this publication safe, sound and good in
every particular.

Take the easiest way to remit for
subscriptions to American Cookery.
Rarely is an item, properly addressed,
lost in the mail. We must rely implicitly
on the mail service rendered by the
government.

We think every number of American
Cookery contains readable and useful
matter for housewives and home-lovers.
In the present number find and notice the
items on "Kitchen Aprons I Have
Known," "The Wizard of the Soup-
pot," "A Vegetable Fracas," and "Vic-
tory Soup." Also "The Wood-stone
Kitchen," called the most attractive
kitchen the writer had ever seen. Good
as well as original and always reliable
topics may be looked for in every con-
secutive number of American Cookery.

PINEAPPLE PARFAIT (See Page 677)

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers

N ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is
meant. A tablespoonfui or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour
mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

French Method of Cooking Tripe

ONLY the thin parts of tripe are
suitable for use with this recipe.
Cut one pound and one-half of
these into strips about two inches wide
and three long, and cut a similar strip
of bacon for every piece of tripe. Lay the
bacon on the tripe, cover with a teaspoon-
ful of grated onion mixed with chopped
parsley, and roll and tie, or secure with
wooden toothpicks.

Prepare a sauce by adding to one pint
of stock six fresh mushrooms, cut into
pieces, one medium-sized carrot, one-
half an onion, and one bay leaf. Put in
a saucepan with the rolls of tripe, let
come to a boil, then cover closely and
allow to simmer only for two hours. Re-
move the rolls of tripe to the warming-
oven, strain off the vegetables from the
sauce, thicken with two tablespoonfuls
of flour and two of butter, cook until
smooth; add a tablespoonfui, each, of
vinegar and Worcestershire, one tea-
spoonful of salt and one-half teaspoonful
of pepper, pour over tripe, and serve in a
border of mashed potato.

Soup for the Convalescent

Cut two pounds, each, of beef shank
and neck, or shoulder of mutton in small
pieces, cover with four quarts of cold
water and let simmer, closelv covered,
until the meat is in shreds. Remove
the large bones; add a large carrot,
scraped and cut in slices, three large
onions, sliced, half a cup of rice, half a
cup of sliced celery, if at hand (if not
add a soupspoonful of celery extract
or celery salt, just before taking from
the fire), four or five parsley branches
and a tablespoonfui or more of salt.
For a change use half a pint of tomatoes
or half a pint of dry beans, soaked over-
night and parboiled. Cook nearly an
hour after adding the vegetables; strain,
pressing out all of the juice. When cold
remove the fat, reheat, season as needed,
and it is ready for use.

Cream of Asparagus-and-Tomato

Soup

Cook a small bunch of asparagus in
boiling salted water. When tender press
as much of the asparagus as possible

673

674

AMERICAN COOKERY

through a sieve; add the water in which
it was cooked, half an onion in which two
cloves have been pressed, two sprigs of
parsley, a cup' and a half of tomato puree
(cooked tomatoes pressed through a
sieve) and a pint of broth or water, and
let simmer very gently twenty minutes.
In the meantime, make a white sauce with
one-third a cup, each, of butter and flour,
half a teaspoonful of salt and three cups
of milk. Remove the onion, cloves and
parsley from the vegetable mixture and
add the sauce; pass the whole through a
fine sieve, reheat, adding seasoning if
needed, and serve. The beaten yolks of
two eggs, mixed with half or a whole cup
of cream or beaten into three table-
spoonfuls of creamed butter, give a
richer soup. Do not let the soup boil
after the yolks are added.

flaked fish. Bind with one beaten egg.
The mixture should be quite firm and
stiff, and should now be shaped with the
hands into the form of a fish, on a sheet
of greased paper in the bottom of a
dripping-pan. Insert the head and tail
of the haddock, dot all over with little
bits of butter, and bake in a quick oven
twenty or thirty minutes, or until nicely
browned.

Serve with a white sauce, into which
one chopped hard-boiled egg and one
tablespoonful of minced pickle have been
added for every cup of sauce.

Mackerel Baked in Vinegar

Gut the mackerel, first cleaned and
washed, into two-inch pieces, and put
into a marmite jar with one table-
spoonful of peppercorns and one teaspoon-

HADDOCK FARCI

Haddock Farci

Remove head, tail, and skin from a
fresh-cooked haddock, weight about
three pounds, free the meat from the
bones, and flake it. Put four to six
potatoes through the ricer, season with
one tablespoonful of salt and one tea-
spoonful of pepper; add one-fourth a cup
of softened butter, and mix this with the

ful of salt. Add one tablespoonful of
chopped onion, and pour over the whole
one-half a cup of cider vinegar. Cover
jar, and bake in a very slow oven for four
to six hours.

This may be used cold for a salad, or
to eat with hot baked potatoes, and it
will keep for several days in the refriger-
ator.

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

675

LEG OF LAMB. ROASTED

Leg of Lamb, Roasted

Put a leg of lamb on a rack in a roasting
pan; set into a hot oven for fifteen min-
utes, then reduce heat; dredge with salt,
pepper and flour and baste with bacon or
salt pork drippings and hot water. Let
cook about an hour and a half, longer if
liked well done. Surround, on a serving
dish", with white potatoes, spinach and
candied sweet potatoes.

Goblet Pie (English)

The name is a corruption of "gobbled,"
meaning a dish so good that it is quickly
"gobbled" or eaten up.

For each pie, to serve one person, mix
one-quarter a cup of chopped meat of any
kind, one-quarter a cup of suet, two
tablespoonfuls of currants, washed and
dried, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Add to this mixture one large apple,
pared, cored, and cut up as for pie, also

two or three plums, peaches, or any other
stone fruit in season. Prunes may be
substituted in case of necessity. Sprinkle
the whole with one teaspoonful of salt
mixed with one-fourth a teaspoonful of
pepper; put into individual baking dishes,
cover with a pastry crust well pressed
down and moistened at the edges, and
with a hole in the center to allow the
steam to escape, and bake in a moderate
oven for half an hour, or longer if the
meat be uncooked.

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Pare and parboil half a dozen sweet
potatoes, cut in halves, lengthwise. After
ten minutes' boiling, drain and lay in a
baking dish. Spread thick with butter,
sprinkle with sugar, and, if desired, a
little powdered cinnamon; add a few
spoonfuls of hot water and bake until
tender, basting often with the sauce in
the pan. Use brown or maple sugar.

INDIVIDUAL SERVICE OF ROAST LAMB

676

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cabbage, Stuffed Au Gratin

Select a compact head of cabbage;
remove the coarse outer leaves. Cut
out the stalk and cabbage around it to
form a symmetrical case. Put the cab-
bage into a saucepan of boiling water;
let cook ten minutes, then rinse in cold
water and press out all the water pos-
sible. Have ready three cups of soft
bread crumbs (sifted or pressed through
a colander); add one-fourth a cup of
melted butter, a cup of chopped nuts
or of cooked ham, veal, fresh pork or
sausage, chopped fine; add also if desired
one or two tablespoonfuls, each, of
chopped onion, green or red pepper and
parsley. Two or three yolks of eggs
may be added if desired, the mixture will

Serve very hot with the cabbage. The
cracker crumbs may be omitted and the
sauce poured over the cabbage set on a
serving dish. In the illustration, the
stalk of the cabbage was not removed, the
case being made by taking out the best
part of the cabbage. This is a mistake,
the stalk being unedible.

Traveler's Omelets

Beat two eggs very light, and season
with one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and
a dash of pepper. Cook in thin layers
in a small omelet pan not more than four
or five inches at the bottom, and turn
over as you would griddle cakes to cook
on both sides. They should be just
firm, but hardly browned. Place on
platter when cooked, and when coul

CABBAGE STUFFED AU GRATIN

be firmer and more consistent with them.
Mix all together thoroughly and use to
fill the cabbage shell. Cover the filling
with one of the outer cabbage leaves
previously removed. Put bits of bacon
in a deep pan or casserole, set the cabbage
on them, surround with two or three cups
of water or light stock, put a strip of
bacon above, cover and let cook an hour
and a half, basting three or four times.
Take off the cabbage leaf, cover the
filling with half a cup of cracker crumbs,
mixed with three tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, and let brown in the oven. Mean-
while thicken the broth with flour made
smooth in water, or add the broth to a
bowl of brown sauce left from roast meat.

spread over each omelet with anchovy
paste; then roll like jelly rolls, wrap in
waxed paper, and put in the traveler's
lunch-box. The above quantity should
make three or four small omelet rolls.

Casserole of Lobster

Shred with two silver forks the^meat of
a three-pound lobster, and place in
casserole where one-half a cup of butter
has been just melted. Dot the lobster
meat with one-fourth a cup of Jmade
mustard, one-half a cup of tomato catsup,
three teaspoonfuls of salt, and one-
fourth a teaspoonful of cayenne. Cover,
and cook twenty minutes in a hot oven.
Before serving pour over it the juice of

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

677

COOKED VEGETABLE SALAD

two lemons, and place a half-ounce
butter ball on each serving. This should
serve four to six persons.

(This recipe is said to have been in-
vented by the novelist, Thackeray.)

Cooked Vegetable Salad

Dress cooked kidney beans, peas and
balls cut from potatoes, each separately.
with French dressing, to which a few
drops of onion juice have been added.
Dispose upon a serving-dish and let
stand in a cool place an hour or more.
Garnish at serving with heart-leaves of
lettuce.

Pineapple Parfait

Chop fine enough slices from a can of
pineapple to fill a cup; with a wooden
pestle press this through a gravy strainer
(not a sieve); if the pineapple be tender
and fine chopped, the whole of it will pass
through the sieve; add one-fourth a cup
of the pineapple syrup, the juice of half
a lemon and three-fourths a cup of sugar
and stir until the sugar is dissolved;

beat one cup and one-third of cream
until quite firm throughout; over this
pour the pineapple mixture and fold the
two together thoroughly. Pour into a
quart mold; pack in equal measures of
rock salt and crushed ice; let stand about
three hours. Turn the mold upside
down and repack in ice and salt, after
about one hour and a half. When
unmolded, garnish with half-slices of
pineapple, whipped cream, and either
chopped pistachio nuts or crushed can-
died rose petals.

Strawberry Shortcake

2\ cups flour

| cup cornstarch

6 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
1 teaspoonful salt

\ cup shortening

(scant)
\\ cups milk (about)
2 baskets strawberries
2 cups sugar

Work the shortening into the dry in-
gredients, and mix to a soft dough with the
milk. Spread the dough in two buttered
layer-cake pans. Bake in a quick oven.
Spread with butter. Put the layers to-
gether with sugared berries and whipped
cream between and above.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

678

AMERICAN COOKERY

Pineapple Puff

If fresh pineapple is used for this recipe,
it should first be shredded and cooked
until it comes to a boil. It may be used
while warm. Canned pineapple should
be shredded, but need not be cooked.

Beat until very stiff the whites of four
eggs, with three teaspoonfuls of lemon
juice and one-fourth a cup of fine gran-
ulated sugar. The sugar may be omitted
for sweetened canned pineapple. Fold
into the stiff whites one cup of the
shredded pineapple, pour into a greased
pan, and cook in oven until well puffed
up. Serve immediately, with whipped
cream, sweetened and flavored with

Make baking powder biscuit dough as
above, roll out thin. Spread with orange
filling, and roll up like a jelly roll. Cut
off J-inch slices. Sprinkle with a little
sugar and bake: in hot oven. Do not
have them touch in pan.

A Frugal Pudding

Beat three eggs; add two cups of milk
and one-half a cup of sugar, and mix
thoroughly with this two cups of mashed
potatoes, either warm or cold. Pour into
a greased pudding dish, and bake half
an hour in a rather hot oven. Serve
directly from the oven, with a fruit
sauce made by sifting any canned or
preserved fruit through a colander, and

;

.. . - ■:

V * T

' A

fc * . \

3i*3

<k)

ORANGE BISCUITS, WITH ORANGE FILLING

three tablespoonfuls of any fruit syrup
and two tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, to a pint of cream.

Orange Biscuits

These may be made very small and
served with tea or coffee at an afternoon
party.

2 cups flour
4 teaspoonfuls baking
powder

3 tablespoonfuls lard
1 teaspoonful salt
^ to 1 cup milk for
soft dough

Orange Filling

2 tablespoonfuls butter 4 tablespoonfuls sugar

1 tablespoonful orange juice and grated rind of

1 orange

Cook over moderate heat until thick-
ened a little, then cool.

cooking with a thickening of flour and
butter — ■ a tablespoonful of each to a
cup of sifted fruit.

Warsaw Custard

Mix with one cup of dried and grated
sponge cake one cup of rich cream and
two well-beaten eggs, and one-half a cup
of sugar. Flavor with lemon extract.
Pour mixture into dish in which it is to
be served, a heat-proof glass dish is
excellent, and cook over gentle heat,
stirring until thick like soft custard.
Remove from fire and let cool. Dust
the top with fine granulated sugar to the
depth of one-eighth of an inch, and set
'under gas flame in lower part of the range
until sugar melts and becomes slightly

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

679

brown, to form a glossy crust. The
sugar can be browned by the use of a
salamander if preferred.

Orange Cream Cake

Cream one-third a cup of butter; add
gradually, half a cup of sugar, then the
well-beaten yolks of two eggs, mixed with
a second half-cup of sugar, and, alter-
nately, half a cup of milk and one cup and
three-fourths of flour, sifted with two and
one-half level teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Lastly, add the whites of two
eggs, beaten dry. Bake in three layer-
cake tins of small size, and put the layers
together with an orange cream filling.
Spread the top very lightly with the
filling. Into this press orange sections,
sprinkling the whole with powdered
sugar.

Orange Cream Filling

Scald one cup of orange juice with the
juice of half a lemon and cne-third a cup
of sugar. Into this stir two and one-
half tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, mixed,
with a second third-cup of sugar. Stir
and cook until the mixture thickens, then
cook over hot water about ten minutes.
Add a tablespoonful of butter, a few
grains of salt and the yolks of two eggs,
beaten very light. Then add, lastly,
the whites of two eggs, beaten dry.
Use when partly cooled.

Sea-Moss Farine Blanc Mange
With Strawberry Preserves

Into the top of a double boiler, above
boiling water, pour one quart of milk and

ORANGE CREAM CAKE

one-half a cup of sugar; shake into the
milk, very slowly, a dessertspoonful of
sea-moss farine; stir it in well to prevent
lumping while it is slowly heating. Let
cook for twenty minutes, stirring at
frequent intervals. Flavor with one-
half a teaspoonful of strawberry extract
and pour into a mold. Serve cold with
strawberry preserves.

Sally Lunn

1 quart flour
4 eggs

2 cups sweet milk

2 large tablespoonfuls
butter

2 scant tablespoonfuls

lard
1 tablespoonful sugar
\ cake yeast

Beat the eggs till very light, then put
all together, flour last. Melt the lard and
butter.

After beating mixture thoroughly put
it in buttered pans to rise overnight;
bake in the morning in the same pans.

Sour Cream Pie

1 cup sour cream
\ cup chopped raisins
\ cup granulated sugar

2 eggs — yolks

Beat all together, cook in raw crust

Pinch of spice

Pinch of salt

| teaspoonful vanilla

SEA-MOSS FARIXE BLAXC MAXGE

680

AMERICAN COOKERY

Meringue

Whites of 2 eggs 1 tablespoonful sugar

Froth Pudding

Scald one pint of sweet milk; add to it
two squares of chocolate finely grated.
Stir until dissolved, then add three
tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt and
two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch dis-
solved in a little cold milk.

Cook until it thickens; remove and
partly cool, then beat in the whites of
two eggs (beaten stiff) and flavor.

When cold serve with whipped cream
around the mold.

Cherry Pudding

Add to one cup of cream one-fourth a
cup of butter, and cook over hot water
until butter is just dissolved. Let cool,
and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten
very thick, one cup of sugar, two cups
of stoned cherries, and the grated yellow
rind of one-half a lemon. Cut one-half
a stale loaf into slices, dip in hot milk,
and stir thoroughly into the other ingre-
dients, until the whole is well mixed.
Lastly, beat in the beaten whites of the
four eggs, and bake in greased pudding
dish in moderate oven until firm. It

may take about an hour. Serve with
hard sauce flavored with lemon juice.

Spring Cake

§ cup butter
If cups sugar
Grated rind \ lemon
4 egg-whites, beaten
very dry

2f cups flour

4 teaspoonfuls baking

powder
f cup milk

Beat the butter to a cream; gradually
beat in the sugar and add the grated
rind; then add, alternately, the milk
and the flour sifted with the baking
powder; add the egg-whites and beat
vigorously. Bake in a tube pan about
fifty minutes. Cover with boiled frost-
ing and, at once, decorate with halves of
cherries, angelica stems and candied
violets.

Boiled Frosting

1 cup sugar

\ cup boiling water

1 egg-white

\ teaspoonful lemon

juice

Prepare in the usual manner, boiling
the syrup to 238° F. by the sugar ther-
mometer, or to a firm soft-ball stage.
Pour the syrup through a sieve on the
beaten white of egg. Add the syrup very
slowly that the frosting may be made
very thick by long beating. Beat in the
lemon juice very slowly, at the last.

SPRING CAKE, BOILED FROSTING

Well-Balanced Menus for Week in April

Q
P

IX!

Breakfast

Quaker Oats, Top Milk

Stewed Prunes

Shirred Eggs, Hashed Brown Potatoes

Crusty Rolls Coffee

Luncheon

Creamed Oysters

Orange-and-Date Salad

Cheese Crackers Tea

Dinner

Cream-of-Corn (Canned) Soup, Germaine

Leg of Lamb, Roasted, Mint Sauce

Candied Sweet Potatoes

Cabbage Stuffed au Gratin

Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce

Dandelion Salad

Caramel Ice Cream, Little Cakes Coffee

Breakfast

Sliced Oranges

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream

Broiled Bacon, Baked Potatoes

Rice Griddle Cakes. Maple Syrup

Luncheon

Casserole of Lobster, Sally Lunn
Cucumber Salad
Cherry Pudding

Dinner

Emergency Soup

Cold Filet of Beef, Sliced Thin

Horseradish Sauce

Buttered Parsnips, Scalloped Potatoes

Dandelion Greens
Sour Cream Pie Tea or Coffee

a
w

<
Q
w
W
P
H

<
Q

P
H

Breakfast

Orange Juice

Gluten Grits, Dates

Creamed Finnan Haddie

Grilled Sweet Potatoes

Bran Muffins Coffee or Cocoa

Luncheon

Canned-Corn Griddle Cakes
Lettuce Salad, Cream Cheese
Sea Moss Blanc Mange with
Strawberry Preserves Tea

Dinner

Rechauffee of Lamb, Macaroni and

Tomato Sauce

Spinach Buttered

Pineapple Parfait

Coffee Spring Cake

Breakfast

Ham Omelet, Fried Mush

Yeast Rolls, Stewed Rhubarb

Creamed Potatoes

Coffee

Luncheon

Beef, Potato-and-Green Pepper Hash

Dry Toast

Philadelphia Relish

Warsaw Custard

Tea

Dinner

Consomme Croutons
Boiled Chicken, Savory Rice

Parsnip Fritters

Cherry-and-Grape Fruit Salad

Plain Junket, Caramel Sauce

Coffee or Tea

a
>

Breakfast

Grapefruit

WTheatena, Top Milk

Tripe, Potatoes Cooked in Milk

Baking Powder Biscuit Coffee

Luncheon

Cream of Asparagus-and-Tomato Soup

Omelet

Boston Brown Bread

Frugal Pudding

Cocoa

Dinner

Filet of Beef, Bernaise Sauce

Potato Riced

Asparagus in Cream

Lettuce-and-Radish Salad

Strawberry Short Cake Tea

Breakfast

Boiled Rice, Cream

Stewed Evaporated Peaches

Boiled Eggs, Rye Muffins

Doughnuts Coffee

Luncheon

Haddock Farci, Drawn Butter Sauce

Pulled Bread

Cabbage Salad

Jello Waldorf Triangles

Tea

Dinner

Clear Tomato Soup

Mackerel Baked in Vinegar

Potatoes O'Brien

Boiled Bermuda Onions

Asparagus, French Dressing

Pineapple Puff Coffee or Tea

Breakfast Luncheon

Broiled Bacon, Baked Potatoes Shad Roe and

Fried Corn Meal Mush Cucumber Salad

Maple Syrup Toasted Rolls (yeast)

Dry Toast Pears on Hot Cake, Croutons

Coffee Tea

Dinner

Cream of Spinach Soup

Chicken Croquettes

Cauliflower

Asparagus Tips Buttered

Mashed Potatoes

Rhubarb Pie Coffee

681

Menus for Special Occasions

CLUB LUNCHEONS

Bouillon in Cups

Lobster Scalloped in Shells

Philadelphia Relish in Lemon Skins

Incubatcr Chickens, Broiled

Asparagus on Toast

Endive, French Dressing

Strawberry Sherbet Little Cakes

Coffee

Radishes Fruit Cocktail Olives

Creamed Chicken in Patty Shells

Yeast Rolls

Cabbage-and-Nut Salad

Individual Charlotte Russe

Coffee

RECEPTION (Buffet)

Gallantine of Chicken, Truffled Tongue in Aspic
Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel (Chafing Dish)
Radishes • Olives Salted Nuts

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches

Apricot Sherbet Macaroon Ice Cream

Little Cakes Coffee

BRIDGE WHIST LUNCHEON

(Served at Card Tables)

Salpicon of Fruit in Cups

Fried Scallops Sauce Tartare

Lady Finger Rolls

Grape Juice Whips Sponge Drops

Coffee
Bonbons Salted Nuts

DINNER (Guests)

Onion Soup, Gratinated Crusts

Halibut Timbales

Hollandaise Sauce

Cucumbers

Creamed Sweetbreads in Ramequins

Crown of Lamb, Mint Sauce

New Potatoes, Cream Sauce

Raspberry Sherbet

Broiled Squabs

Romaine Salad

Biscuit Tortoni

Mints Black Coffee

682

The Wizard of the Soup-Pot

By F. M. Christianson

IN so high esteem is a cup of soup held
that it is said to be to a dinner what
an overture is to an opera.

All food must pass through the mouth,
which we are told husbands some forty-
different kinds of germs and which it is
impossible to make sterile.

These bacteria getting into the in-
testines continue to decompose and form

the first boiling hardens the tissues of
meat and shuts in the juices, which we
want to draw out. A knuckle-joint or
shin-bone, with considerable meat at-
tached, we prefer for soup-making.
Crack the bones and cut up the meat so as
to allow marrow and juices to escape.
Put the meat over the fire just after
breakfast and allow 4 or 5 hours for

poisons and these poisons are responsible making the soup.

for much illness, and the death of many
children in summer.

But there is a remedy from these, for
if the gastric juice flows freely, one of
its constituents is hydrochloric acid and
this is a great germicide and will negative
the work of the bacteria.

"Soup-stock" that we hear about is the
liquid that meat, bones and vegetables
have been cooked in and that contains
the extract of those things. This "stock"
is the basis of soups, sauces and gravies
and contains in marked degree fats, meat
extractives, gelatine of meat and bone

Various emotions of the body control and flavoring matter.

the flow of gastric juice and so when this
liquid is deficient, typhoid and other
germs get in their work.

Soup serves several purposes. It in-
creases the flow of the stomach juices,
acts as an appetizer, and contains all the
vegetable and fruit salts that in them-
selves are so healthful; thus there are
many reasons why soup should be a
daily prelude to dinner. Mental workers
who are tired and worried when they get
to the table are relieved of -fatigue and
get an appetite from the fine flavor and
delicate aroma of a well-made soup.

The most nourishing soups are made
of fresh meat. The meat should be put
on to cook in cold water, covered well
and kept at a low temperature and never
allowed to boil for, at least, the first hour,
after which gentle boiling may be % had.
The reason it must not boil hard is this:

Soups need not be considered a luxury
to be served only on the tables of the
well-to-do. Soup should be eaten at the
beginning of every dinner. It warms
and excites the stomach and prepares it
for the digestion of the heavier part of
the meal. Soup should be thin and only
a plate eaten at a time. Too much
soup dilutes the juices of the stomach.

There is much said about straining
soups, and straining can easily remove
one-half of the nourishing properties.
Personally, I prefer the soup without
straining and so we only resort to this
method occasionally.

Consomme is a clear soup made of
beef, veal or fowl and cooked with vege-
tables and the whole strained before
serving.

It is always well to use soups in season.
In winter, soups in which meat enters

683

684

AMERICAN COOKERY

largely. In summer, those without meat.
For example, the water in which vege-
tables have been cooked can be thickened
in the way I shall mention later and make
good, tasty additions to dinner or lunch.
Examples are potato, tomato, and aspara-
gus soups. These are easily fashioned
in the season of these vegetables. A
little sorrel added just before serving
increases the value, flavor and appearance
of these soups.

Flavors

In making soups be careful not to use
too many vegetables and so destroy the
flavor of the soup.

There are certain old stand-bys that
are always to be used, such as potatoes,
celery, onions, carrots, cabbage, bay-
leaves, etc. The vegetables must be
boiled slowly in the meat stock and need
to be put in at different times, depending
on the time required to cook each, so
that all will be done at the same time.
Vegetables contain an essential highly
volatile oil that gives the flavor and this
aroma is easily driven off by too long
cooking, and that would spoil a soup that
should be delicious and of fine flavor,
which is in itself an appetizer.

We often use forcemeat balls, noodles
and dumplings as garnishes in our soups
and these are nutritious and palatable.

To Thicken Soup

Use egg-yolk and cream beaten up in a
dish and then pour some cf the hot soup
over it, stirring the while. Remove
from the fire and serve at once. Or
cornstarch and milk may be used in the
same way to give consistency, or bread-
crumbs, etc.

Soup should always be served piping
hot in hot plates. This little matter
is one of greatest import and should never
be neglected on any pretext. Rather
than fail in these points I would forego
having soup, so important are they.

There is magic in the soup-pot. If
you are a stranger to it, learn now to use
it. It is economical and uses so many
little odds and ends that would only be
thrown out, ordinarily. And it adds
something of value to every meal where
used. A spoonful of peas, a helping of
potatoes, a tomato, a stalk of celery, an
onion, a spoonful of gravy can all be
worked up into a delicious soup, when
added to "stock/'

A dozen plump raisins or two or three
fat prunes, added to the soup about an
hour' before it is finished, is a wrinkle
I learned from a chef; it needs to be tried
to be convinced how good it is. After
that you'll always add them.

The Telephone Voice

A BLIND man hears more than the
seeing — but we forget that when we
go to the telephone. The blind man
hears the absence of sweetness and truth
in a voice; and so with the person at the
other end of the wire. Our words are
what we are conscious of, and the effect
we intend them to convey. But when
we forget to smile and to feel kind and
sincere, then we have left undone those
things that we ought to have done, and
something else than the message was con-

veyed, an impression that was not in our
scheme at all. Our real self is laid plain
to our interlocutor, plainer than if face
to face. For presence is a wonderful
check. .

Were you ever present at a play where
the players were heard, but not seen?
To play a part like that demands the
utmost sincerity, for the player can never
for an instant let go of the consciousness
that'the listener on the other side of the
curtain hears all that the voice thinks it

THE TELEPHONE VOICE

685

carries, and more. Any little lapse, the
slightest shade of carelessness, is more
observable to the ear when the attention
is undivided with the eye. And he dare
not laugh — ■ unless he is sure of himself.
Laughter more than anything in the world
is a dead give-away.

An old acquaintance who makes it a
rule fiequently to call us up has such a
black voice you think of her as sitting
in darkness while she talks. She is one
of those who visit over the phone, and
punctuates politely her long conversa-
tion with laughter — laughter so dark
and lacking in mirth you have the feeling,
Oh, I wish she didn't! And you would
know that she is not happy, even if she
did not tell you of her repeated grievances
and jars. Old friends know each other's
faults and are loyal jin spite of them, but
it is a great drain on loyalty to talk too
long. It really is sad for one friend to
have to come to dread another, and to
hear with apprehension the telephone's
ring. And it were just as well not to
recount disagreeable happenings.

Another old friend we have, an elderly
lady, also visits periodically over the
telephone. It becomes a sort of duty
with her to relate the family news —
(But first, don't let me fail to give her
credit, she asks about us!) — to give the
news of her kin and connection and
neighbors, and, maybe, to go back into
the past for a little reminiscence. She
talks a long time, but it is different;
and we come away from the phone feeling
pleasant and with a glow of loving
neighborliness warming our hearts. Not
for anything she has said specially,
but for just that psychological some-
thing that brought through her voice her
true, sincere self.

It is held that while the eye you may
control from giving you away, the voice
you cannot. When, then, the voice must
unaided handle a situation, it were as well
to be on guard. Or, better still, have the
heart emptied of everything but kind-
ness. Like dear old Mrs. K . When

you call her phone she answers smiling,

"All right!" and you have the feeling
at your end that wherever she is things
must be all right.

Her neighbor Mrs. B — we are sure has
a heart of kindness, for she is a fine, lovely
woman, but call her and she will answer,
"Well?" — in a tone that says, Well,
what do you want? whoever you may be.
A nervous temperament, perhaps, excuses
her. Anyway — although for the mo-
ment you wish you had not called — it is
not so bad as having the door slammed in
your face. That's what it amounts to,
when one with whom you are speaking
abruptly hangs up the receiver.

Did you ever have that happen to you ?
I did once. One of my friends, a chronic
semi-invalid, one summer indulged herself
in little tempers. One of them she
handed me over the wire. It was all done
in a flash, followed the next moment by
the click of the receiver on the hook, and
I could not understand. That evening
she went away to a rest cure in the
mountains, and sent me from her retreat
a sort of apology, laying her conduce to
"nerves." To tell the truth, the experi-
ence had been so new to me that I had
not even recognized what had been done.
I had caught, of course, that she had given
way to a little irascibility, but as for the
rest, thought something must suddenly
have occurred, and put the matter from
my mind. So I wrote her in reply. We
are still friends — but I wish she hadn't
done that.

It is interesting to note the difference
among your telephone correspondents —
some are so much more pleasant than
others. When I take up the receiver and
a sweet, childish treble pipes — " Who is
that? This is Betty!" — I am in the
instant all one big smile. And when
Betty's laughter floats over, there isn't
anything but pleasantness anywhere.
She hasn't learned to be anything but
just Betty, the dearest, sincerest little
personality conceivable.

Sincerity is so much the easiest, — it
just carries you along naturally, and you
don't have concern. A woman on our

AMERICAN COOKERY

street who isra.her ambitious, finds that
-•:- must climb by ways devious and
uncertain, and which carry her sometimes
to places she had not set out for. One
day she got into something she had cause
to be a little ashamed of, and attempting
to explain out of it to me she told one
falsehood right after another. She was
not clever enough to carry it off — ■ her
voice was not sincere and she forgot to
smile. While in legitimate drama, so to
speak, her smile never comes off, behind
the curtaiii she forgets that the absence
of the smile is entirely plain. I listened
to her tangle herself up, and then /
smiled as I turned away from the phone.
But it was a smile with no gladness in it.
Two of her acquaintances were speaking
of her when one remarked, "Mrs. L —
is a delightful woman." "Were you ever
on the same telephone line with her?"
asked the second — "no? Well, then!"
It is funny how women will forget.
The "pretty" voice that listens to itself
while it gets through the matter in hand
with you, off guard, is harsh and unlovely
enough berating the dairyman, or just
poor "central." Listening to her own
affectations a woman gives herself away
as nobody in the world could make her,

and impresses upon you her insincerity.

In a house that we know live two
women who use the same telephone.
You call the number and a dull, dark
voice answers in a colorless and dis-
interested tone — "North 6090-M." You
never get used to that tone, however
often you call, it sounds so discouraging.
But you cannot reach the other without
first getting past this. When the other
voice in turn rings out sweet and vibrant,
"Hello!" with a bright, rising inflection,
how different is the feeling of the caller!
It is as if the second would make up in
brightness for the darkness of the first,
for she has been known to say, "I want
our phone to sound cheerful and pleasant
— ■ it is polite to people who call us!" ^

Which is simple courtesy, of course,
and comes of a disposition to be kind.
Though it is not necessarily true, to be
sure, that courtesy over the telephone is
proof of the "pure in heart"; it is always
possible the person behind the voicejnay
have been only on guard; but the op-
posite is true: Sweetness and kindness
in the heart will not find expression in
unbecoming words or even tones, "for
out of the heart the mouth speaketh."

F. L. T.

The Return

And so at last I trod the ways
I once had found so fair,

To find the rose of memory-
Had drooped and faded there.

Noon on the strange-familiar ways;

Dust, and the common things;
Until at last the day spread out

For flight its lovely wings,

And let their golden shadows fall

Across the fields I knew;
And then the sudden splendor came

As it was wont to do.

Like the old smile across a face

Whose early charm is spent,
That light of unforgotten days

Trembled — and came — and went!

— By Karle Wilson Baker.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be

paid for at reasonable rates.

A Vegetable Fracas

THEY were just a medley of vege-
tables the grocer's boy had brought
into the house in a basket, jostled to-
gether, and left there for the cook to sort
out and put away. But it was the cook's
afternoon off and she would not be home
until time to get dinner. The grocer's
boy plumped the basket down on the
table at exactly 2.10 o'clock, so you can
count up for yourselves how long those
vegetables had to lie there, all mixed up
together, "the sheep with the goats,"
as the good-natured potatoes, who, by the
way, were on the very bottom of the
heap, remarked loud enough to be heard.

The asparagus tips, crowded in be-
tween a huge yellow turnip and a head
of red cabbage — ■ both of whom were
nodding in sleep and leaning heavily
against the slender, maidenlike asparagus
— ■ gave a gentle little sigh.

"The sheep with the goats," they re-
flected pensively. Yes, indeed, it was
all of that! And what kind of a mistress
was this to whom they all had come?
To leave them there packed in together
for hours just as the grocer had delivered
them, not to trouble to put them away
or even to look them over. "Besides,"
they concluded, "any one who could
order us and that crude red cabbage and
the very inelegant yellow turnip at the
same time, must be a strange order of
being! ': The dainty asparagus tips
sniffed.

Four o'clock sounded from the octagonal
kitchen clock.

"Hello!" said the carrots briskly.
They had been asleep too, but the mo-
ment they awoke they became talkative
and bustling. "Four o'clock, already!
By the way, it's most time for somebody
to be planning dinner! Wonder which
of us will be chosen to do the honors?
Hope we are!"

They had a way of saying certain
words in a big voice that was most
funny. The lettuce rustled its skirts
and choked a giggle.

The asparagus tips had no doubt as to
who would be chosen. They had heard
the maid tell the grocer's boy there was to
be a guest for dinner — an Honorable
Somebody or Other. Of course, for a
guest the mistress would choose the most
select of all the vegetables. The aspara-
gus tips were not vain, but they wished
the cook would hurry home so as to pre-
pare them for the table in the best and
daintiest manner possible.

Here the red cabbage, who had fallen
against the asparagus, awoke with a
start. "I say!" it shouted in the very
loudest of voices. "Why don't some-
body put us in a cool place? I'm hot
and it's not good for me!"

The asparagus would have laughed at
the idea of anything spoiling red cabbage,
but they were so busy being indignant at
being jostled against by their plebian
neighbors that they wouldn't have
laughed for anything.

"If you're hot, what do you think
we feel?" they suggested in withering
tones.

Just at this point the yellow turnip

687

688

AMERICAN COOKERY

woke up, too, and what do you think the
rude thing said? Said he, and ad-
dressed his remarks to the asparagus:
"You? Why, you're as cold and slippery
as eels — almost. You never felt real
warm in your life, did you?"

The potatoes came to the rescue.
"Here, here," they interposed, while
the asparagus edged as far away from her
insulting neighbor as possible. "Pick on
something your own size, why don't
you?"

"What's it all about?" clamored the
carrots, who had been dozing off again.
"All I know is it's almost dinnertime!"
said the red cabbage.

Just at this moment the cook hurried
in. She stooped over the basket of
vegetables and wondered, "which av
thim" to have for dinner.

The mistress of the house solved the
question. She came to the door and
said to the cook: "Bridget, make a let-
tuce salad, please. And cook potatoes
with the roast. Then fix the red cab-
bage. You cook it deliciously; it's a
real dainty. And we'll have the turnip
boiled and cream the carrots with some

peas

"An' th' 'sparagras, mum?'! asked
Bridget.

"Oh, leave that. Betty and I will
eat it tomorrow for luncheon!"

Victory Soup

I DON'T need any French daughter-
in-law imported across the blue to
teach me how to make soup out of
nothing.

Long before the dietitians (and diet
kitchens) began to preach the salvage of
vegetable waters, I began to practice it;
and it's many a year since a spoonful of
food has been wasted in my home, —
when I knew it.

That was by proxy, though, in the
days of old when folk even below the
nobility could still see a cook; before these
chefs de luxe began to charge — and
get — their weight in gold, for a salary.

"Kitchen queens," indeed; well said.

So lots of the precious fluid still got
away. But now that / am wearing the
tiara every drop is saved. Gingerly, at
first were turnip and cabbage water
added, but these even can be offset with
a liberal dose of tomato can; so prac-
tically all has been utilized.

Even squash has proved a delicious
addition. "Nothing venture, nothing
new," has been my motto; and it has
been a revelation to taste these new and
uncharted recipes.

So substantial and filling, too, have
proved these nourishing mixtures that a
big bowl of my vegetarian pottage, and
some dessert, are all we want for lunch.
My man doesn't complain of the regu-
larity, for there isn't any, — never twice
alike.

"Every day is a fresh beginning,
Every morn is the soup made new."

Abe Martin, the inimitable squibster,
says, "It must be nice t' run a boarding-
house an' not have t' worry 'bout some-
thin' differ'nt fer dinner ever' day."
So I have "arrived," though sans the
boarders.

Every scrap (and scraping) of suitable
material, every little dab of a left-over,
joins the festive bubble. Ad libitum,
tells the tale and ad infinitum, is the
truth about it. Such fun, too, as I have
every morning when I go "In Search of a
Soup," and then making the gudeman
guess at lunch "what's intil 't."

In those palmy days of near-royalty
referred to, when I kept a maid, I was
always told that celery tops, for instance,
could not be used, as they were bitter.
So my first official act was to try that out.
Result, first-class addition to soup-pot.
Boil them tender and chop fine.

"Bile chucky stanes in butter and the
brae'll be gude," the Scotch husband often
quotes. So if my supplies run low and
my piece de resistance registers pretty
thin, I add a tonic from something that
hasn't been left over, — a lump of butter
or some kitchen bouquet.

Now that I am my own mistress I have

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

689

verified my theory that there's no left-
over from a Christian table that won't
acceptably go into soup, salad or dessert.

K. L. R.
* * *

Cooking and Baking with Gas

THE other day I went to see a friend,
who had been newly married, and
while there watched the pathetic efforts
of his wife to turn out some food.

For instance, one day the dear little
soul tried to bake bread, but found that
it all burned on the lower shelf (that
is, the forms became too hot and the
bread naturally became too black).

I asked the little wife why she did not
put the broiler-pan underneath her
baking-trays, and in this manner reflect
the heat and distribute it evenly, but
she said: "Aw, you can't do nothing with
these gas-ovens!"

Thereupon, I offered to do her baking
for her, if she would permit me, and set
out to make my potato sponge by taking
one-third of the weight of potatoes (one-
third as much potatoes as flour in weight),
one teaspoonful of salt per pound of the
total weight of the materials, one table-
spoonful of sugar per pound of the total
weight of materials used, one teaspoon-
ful of liquid lard per pound of material,
two cups of half-lukewarm milk and
water, one cake of yeast, dissolved in
this mixture, and sifted my flour over it.

I had four and a half pounds of flour.

The potatoes were cooked in the skins,
drained, peeled and crushed through a
sieve, then the procedure began. I
mixed all the materials with a wire whisk
very thoroughly, the amount of work
being of equal importance with the
quality of the materials for the quality
of the resultant product.

I set my sponge in a warm place for
three hours, then I sifted some more
flour over it, mixed it until it began to
fall apart, then turned it out on a floured
bread-board, and with clean, floured
hands began to knead the dough.

This procedure I continued until the

dough was as soft as velvet (one must of
course sprinkle the dough with flour
from time to time, as it keeps on absorb-
ing flour), then I set it again to rise in a
warm place, and when it had assumed
twice its bulk, I turned it out on the
board again, gave it a quick kneading,
filled my larded bread pans two-thirds
full, and set them in a warm place to
rise. After about an hour they were
ready for the oven.

Then I brushed the tops with lard
first and then with evaporated milk
(diluted, evaporated milk also having
been used in the dough) and put them in
the oven.

But, I used the precaution of putting
the thick sheet-iron broiling pan under-
neath the bread pans and set the pans
on the grate, so that there was air-space
between them and the broiling pan.

Then I watched my bread. In order
to get a good, high loaf, I first kept the
heat very low; this served to form the
gas from the yeast and expanded the
dough; when the pans were full of dough
to the top, I raised the degree of heat and
then the bread showed what it could do;
it came up out of the pan in a most
appetizing bulge and after an hour had
acquired such a delightful color (dark
golden brown on top and on all sides,
the top-color being due to the brushing
with milk and lard) and the crust proved
so delightful and the taste so exquisite,
that there was but one voice: "Perfect!
absolutely perfect!"

In fact, all agreed it was the most de-
licious bread they had ever eaten.

The little wife was absolutely flabber-
gasted. She said, "How on earth did
you do it?" I answered, "You saw,
yourself! Always remember that it is
brain first that makes the bread. A
good cook must be able to turn out
excellent bread on an open fire in the
field; with a gas oven it is child's play.
Never let your utensils get the better of
you! Outwit them! Think and ponder
how to vanquish^them! "

K. H.

690

AMERICAN COOKERY

The Fireless Cooker

MANY a housewife may solve the
servant problem by the aid of a
Fireless Cooker. Without a doubt it is
the greatest labor saving device yet in-
vented. Not only does it enable one
to prepare a meal with but few steps, but
have it ready, tempting and hot, without
further effort after once putting it into the
container.

Foods require no watching, stirring,
turning or basting while in the process
of cooking in a fireless.

Also, there is a saving of 50% of fuel
consumption; very little evaporation
takes place; flavor is cooked into the
food; it does not shrink, nor dry food out,
therefore nothing is wasted.

After trying every possible method of
keeping a servant who would do house-
work, cooking and, occasionally, care for
the baby without absolutely handing
over my husband's monthly salary, I
decided on a fireless cooker.

It has more than paid for itself in
two months as I now need no servant,
but prepare my dinner in the forenoon
when doing other household duties.
In this way I may spend my afternoons
at leisure and also serve a hot and per-
fectly cooked dinner in the evening
without further preparation.

The seamless aluminum compartments
are best, as they absorb no odors or
tastes and are easily cleaned. After
once using the fireless the owner wonders
how she ever did without it.

Not only baking, roasting, boiling,

steaming and stewing are accomplished,

but desserts are frozen without motion

successfully. h. w.

* * *

Mint

MINT has become one of our most
popular flavors and can be used in
numerous combinations of food and
drink.

It is an easy matter to preserve it so
that it will be fresh enough to use through-
out1 ;the year even as a garnish, by ar-

ranging alternate layers of salt and sprigs
of mint in a wide mouthed jar, kept ina
cool place.

Every one knows how essential the
mint flavor is to lamb.

Mint sauce and mint jelly may be pre-
served and kept for months by the follow-
ing recipes.

Mint Sauce

Pick over and wash enough mint leaves
to fill a large pan; for every cup of
leaves, allow 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of
water, 1J cups of sugar and a pinch of
salt. Extract the juices by pounding
the leaves to a pulp; then add the above
and boil until the mixture becomes like
thick syrup. Pour into jelly glasses and
cover with paraffin.

Mint Jelly

Dissolve J package of gelatine in J cup
of cold water; add 1 cup of mint sauce, the
juice of a lemon, J a teaspoonful of salt,
and 1 pint of boiling water. To make a
brighter green use a few drops of green
vegetable coloring. Strain into jelly
glasses and cover with paraffin.

A delicious drink can be made by using
\ pint of ginger ale and the juice of a
lime; mix and sweeten to taste, using
mint loaf sugar.

Serve with sprigs of fresh mint and
cracked ice in tall glasses. e. l. g.

* * *
A Good Way to Cook Fish

TAKE two pounds of well dressed
fish, put in a stew kettle and cover
with water. Add a half-cup of vinegar,
two teaspoonfuls of salt, a dozen black
peppers and two blades of mace. Boil
until tender; take out and remove the
bones, run the meat through a meat chop-
per, work in one cup of fine-ground
crackers, a lump of butter the size of a
walnut, one well beaten egg, and the
juice of a lemon. Make out into cakes,
dip in well beaten egg and then in fine-
ground crackers and fry to a light brown.

;. m. s.

ADVERTISEMENTS

can you eat
Kot biscuits ?

Get Crisco at your grocer's, in this
sanitary, dirt- proof container.
Never sold in bulk. All conven-
ient sizes, packed net weight, from
one pound up.

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— or are you tired of the same old
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founder of the Boston Cooking
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costs us 29 cents; we will send you
a copy for only 10 cents in stamps.
Address Dept. A-4, The Procter 8b
Gamble Company, Cincinnati, O.
Ask for "Recipes for Every Day."

You can if they are made with Crisco,
the wholesome, digestible cooking fat.

Crisco is wholesome and digestible be-
cause it is strictly a vegetable product
— a pure, creamy white cooking fat
made by the special Crisco process of
solidifying high-grade vegetable oil. It
is rich, nutritious, tasteless, odorless.
It does not turn rancid. It is as easy
to digest as fresh garden vegetables.
There is nothing else like it.

Use Crisco for all your cooking, pastry-
making, cake-baking and frying. It
gives you the utmost quality and rich-
ness for every cooking purpose. Yet it
is as economical as any cooking fat you
can use.

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

691

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes,
I and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully-
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4127. — "Will you favor me by
publishing the directions for Curled Toast?
It makes a pretty decoration for many dishes."

Curled Toast

CUT one-fourth inch slices, length-
wise, from a brick-shaped loaf,
and divide each slice into two or
three narrow strips. The loaf should be
quite fresh, if possible warm from the
oven, and the cutting done with a very
sharp, saw-tooth knife, so as to make
perfectly smooth slices. Now twist or
curl these in any fashion you please,
securing the twists on a board with pins,
and fastening the curls with wooden
toothpicks. Let stand until dry enough
to retain their shape, then brown in the
oven.

Query No. 4128. — "Will you give me the
recipe for Baked Oranges? Those I have
eaten were delicious, but my experiments have
failed."

Baked Oranges

Your failure was probably due to too
hot an oven. Too great heat develops
a bitter flavor. Try baking the oranges
in a cool oven, not more than 220° Fah.,
and only until they are warm through.
It should not take longer than 20 to 30
minutes.

Query No. 4129. — "I should appreciate a
recipe for a Sandwich made of sliced chicken,
ham, and cheese between toasted bread, served
hot, which is served at the Waldorf Astoria in
New York, and called the 'Waldorf Special'?
The toast is not hard or dry."

1 Waldorf Special '

We do not know the sandwich you
describe, but we think it might easily
be made from the description you give.
Probably the meats are sliced while hot,
and the cheese is heated in the oven.
In making the toast, the hotter the fire
and the quicker you make it, the softer
it will be.

Query No. 4130. — "Will you be kind enough
to tell me what will help fresh Salmon to retain
its color when cooking it?

"Also let me know what you mean in the recipe
for Almond Sponge Cake in American Cookery
for November, page 279, by adding water or
white of egg to nuts to keep them from boiling?"

To Retain Color in
Cooking Salmon

The color of salmon depends on many
things, the variety, the age of the fish, the
length of time it has been kept, etc.
Our only method of retaining the color has
been to add one-half cup of vinegar to
the water in which the salmon is boiled.

In the recipe for almond sponge cake,
the word "boiling" was used in a techni-
cal sense. It is the term employed by
cooks to mean the puffy or curdled effect,
sometimes almost a seething — it is a
condition difficult to describe — which
results from pounding almonds in a mor-
tar until they make a quite smooth paste.
The condition depends a good deal on the
weather, also on the vigor of the pounding,
and except in the texturejt makes no very
great difference in the finished sponge
cake.

692

ADVERTISEMENTS

Before we had Baking Powder

The oldest form of baking powder was sour milk and baking
soda. Various substitutes came to take the place of the lactic
acid which the sour milk contains — in 1837 in England, for
example, it was hydrochloric acid.

And of all the strange ingredients that have gone into food
in the history of cooking, what could be more startling than
hydrochloric acid !

The uncertainty of this method, to say nothing of the actual
danger of using a corrosive poison, makes this one of the most
interesting chapters in the study of leavening agents.

From that time until the production of Ryzon was a long
stride. Ryzon, the Perfect Baking Powder, combines pure,
healthful ingredients with scientific accuracy, economy and
dependability.

Ryzon is packed in full 16 ounce pounds — also 25c and 15c packages.
The new Ryzon Baking Book (original price Si ■ 00), containing 250 practical j.» vvzo„

recipes, nvill be mailed, postpaid upon receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except level measure
in Canada. A pound tin of Ryzon nvill be sent free, postpaid, to any Domestic
science teacher ivho ivrites us on school stationery, giving official position.

eENERALCHEMICALCQ

FOOD DEPARTMENT

NEW YORK

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

Buy advertised Goods — fcDo not accept substitutes

693

694

AMERICAN COOKERY

Query No. 4131. — "I have a friend whose
cook makes an attractive pink and white Streaked
Mold of Ice Cream by using peppermint or cinna-
mon stick candy for sweetening instead of sugar.
I should like to know how to make this."

Peppermint Candy Ice Cream
(Streaked)

We do not know how your friend's
cook makes her pretty ice cream, but
if you follow the directions we give, you
can make some just as pretty. Divide
your recipe for any plain ice cream into
two parts, and freeze in two freezers.
Color one part red with any of the guar-
anteed colorings, and flavor with either
extract of peppermint, or oil of pepper-
mint. The latter is a very strong flavor,
and one-quarter a teaspoonful will be
enough for a pint of cream. When the
two creams are frozen, add the contents
of one can to that of the other, and mix
lightly, as you might mix the batters in a
marble cake. Or pack in alternate
layers in a brick mold, as in the Neo-
politan ice cream. Or arrange in any
form of layers you prefer in a round mold.
If you had a cylinder mold, even a water-
tight canister, you could arrange the
layers to resemble striped candy. After
packing in a mold, the mixture should be
kept in ice and salt until frozen very hard.
Great care should be taken that the salty
water does not enter the mold, for it is
insidious, and will get in anywhere there
is the least leak.

In default of coloring matter or pepper-
mint, of course you could use dissolved
candy, all red, but there is no need of
this, and the process would be trouble-
some.

Query No. 4132. — "Please give me a re-
cipe for Crab Gumbo, and one for Chocolate
Pie?"

Crab Gumbo

Cook in one pint of salted water a
quart of okra pods, previously washed
and sliced thin crosswise. They should
take from 15 to 20 minutes to be tender.
Meantime thicken one pint of either
fish-stock or milk with two tablespoonfuls

of flour blended with two tablespoonfuls
of butter, and stirred into the milk over
the fire until it boils. Add to this a
cup of sifted crab meat, either canned or
fresh cooked, and season with one-fourth
a teaspoonful of pepper and a dash of
paprika. Now add to this the okra,
with the water in which it was cooked,
stir together, and serve with croutons.

Chocolate Pie

Melt in a quart saucepan three table-
spoonfuls of butter or a substitute;
blend into this six tablespoonfuls of
flour, stir smooth, and add two cups of
milk, or a mixture of milk and water.
Cook, with careful stirring, until mixture
is thick, then beat in the beaten yolks of
two eggs, one-half a cup of sugar, and
two ounces of chocolate previously cooked
to a smooth paste with a little water —
about one-fourth or three-eighths a cup.
Pour the whole into a pastry shell, cover
with a meringue made of the whites of
the eggs and bake until meringue is firm.
If the pastry shell is not already baked,
it should be allowed to bake after it is
filled with the chocolate mixture, and the
meringue added the last thing.

Query No. 4133 — "I wish a recipe for the
genuine Boston Baked Beans?"

Boston Baked Beans

Let soak overnight in soft water one
quart of dried pea beans. In the morn-
ing wash them, cover with fresh water,
and let simmer only, until soft enough
to be easily pierced with a pin. If the
water is not soft, one-half to one tea-
spoonful of soda is added, but not unless
this is needed. Some Boston house-
keepers change the water two or three
times during the process of cooking the
beans, but some do not. Some cook one
onion with the beans, some add the
onion when the beans are ready to be
baked, some omit onion altogether.
Have ready an earthen bean-pot of the
orthodox shape, narrow at top, and pro-
vided with a lid, and put into this two-
thirds of the parboiled beans. Scald

ADVERTISEMENTS

^lease Mamma make some

oocoanut Cookies

EVERYONE likes cocoanut cookies
and cakes, and Dromedary Cocoanut
has made it easy and economical to
have them often.

The cover of its "Ever-Sealed" pack-
age may be replaced after using a part
of the contents, and the remainder will
keep fresh and moist to the last shred.

Every package contains Guarantee

Write today for book of new Dromedary Cookie
recipes. Sent Free upon request. Try these
delightful

Cocoanut Orange Jumbles

% cup shortening ^ cup orange juice

I cup sugar % cup Dromedary Cocoanut

Grated rind of I orange 3 cups barley flour

I egg, beaten 4 teaspoons baking powder

Beat shortening and sugar to a cream. Add orange rind, egg.
orange juice, cocoanut, and flour sifted with baking powder.
Roll into a thin sheet. Cut out with doughnut cutter, place
the jumbles a little apart on buttered baking pan. Brush top
of each cookie with slightly beaten egg-white or cold water;
cover with Dromedary Cocoanut. Dredge with granulated
sugar and bake delicate brown in a quick oven.

The HILLS BROTHERS Co.

Department G 375 Washington St., New York

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

695

696

AMERICAN COOKERY

one-fourth a pound of salt pork, scrape
rind white and clean, score one inch deep
in half-inch strips across top, and place
over the beans, then fill in the rest of the
beans. The pork should be on a level
with the beans in the pot. Now put into
a measuring-cup one-eighth its volume
of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and
one of dry mustard. Mix, fill up cup with
hot water, and pour over beans in pot.
Add enough water to cover, put on lid, and
bake for eight hours in a moderate oven.
The beans should be looked at from
time to time, and more hot water added
if needed. The cover should be removed
during the last hour of baking to brown
the beans on top.

Query No. 4134. — "Kindly tell me how to
make French Bread, Crustv, also Honey Nou-
gat?"

French Bread, Crusty

Blend one compressed yeast cake with
a little water in a measuring cup, and
when free from lumps fill cup half-full
with lukewarm water. Pour this on two
cups of sifted flour in a mixing bowl, or
on a board, and knead to a stiff dough.
Form the dough into a ball-shaped mass,
score it a couple of times across the top,
and drop it into a saucepan of tepid
water, with the scored side up. There
should be enough water to cover the ball
of dough. Cover, and let stand in a
warm place until the dough swells,
floats on top of the water, and becomes
very light. Lift out with large skimmer
to a bowl containing one-half a cup of
tepid water in which one teaspoonful of
salt has been dissolved; add flour enough
to knead, which will be two cups or less;
knead well, and let stand in warm place
until light. Shape into long, narrow
loaves, score in light, slanting strokes
across top, brush lightly with milk,
butter, or a mixture of water and sugar,
and let stand on baking pan until light,
when the pan is slipped into a hot oven
for baking.

Honey Nougat I

Mix three-fourths a cup of honey with

one cup of granulated sugar, and cook
over a slow fire until, when a spoonful is
dropped into very cold water, it forms a
brittle mass. Then beat in the beaten
white of one egg, one teaspoonful of
almond or other extract, and one-half a
pound of amonds, blanched and chopped.
Spread the mixture on oiled paper on a
slab, cover with another sheet of oiled
paper, lay a weighted board on top and
let stand until cold. Then cut in strips.
Another good way to test, if the nougat
mixture is cooked, is to drop a little on a
plate, let cool slightly, and then roll be-
tween the thumb and forefinger. If
properly cooked it will not stick.

Honey Nougat II

Boil one pound of honey until it forms
a firm ball when a spoonful is dropped into
cold water; then beat in the whites of two
eggs, beaten stiff, and one pound of
almonds, blanched and chopped. Press
between sheets of oiled paper as before.

Query No. 4135. — "Will you publish in
your Queries and Answers a recipe for Vienna
Bread? Also one for the Butter Cakes baked on
a griddle in the restaurant windows?"

Vienna Bread

Follow directions for French Bread in
answer to preceding query. The only
difference is in the shape of the loaf, the
French loaf being long and narrow, the
Vienna not so long, thicker in the center,
and pointed at the ends. Both are
scored across before baking.

Butter Cakes

We do not know the exact recipe used
by the restaurants you allude to, but the
cakes taste like a light biscuit dough,
baked very quickly on a very hot griddle.
We believe it is the method of baking
that give them their distinctive flavor.

Query No. 4136. — "What is meant by
'Tinned Milk' in the recipe for Pimiento Cheese
on page 287 of American Cookery for No-
vember?"

ADVERTISEMENTS

@<g©

Imagine coconut, canned in its own milk, just
as it comes from the palm and with all the fresh-
ness and goodness that nature put into it.
That's Baker's way of providing you with a treat
from the tropics.

Baker's canned-in-its-own-milk coconut, because
of its natural milk, is unusually good for cakes,
pies and candies.

Not only does the grated, milk-laden coconut meat taste
better than ordinary dry coconut, but where cakes and
pies are concerned, the richness of the natural coconut milk
provides a shortening that helps to insure the success of
your baking efforts.

You will like Baker's canned- in-its-own-milk coconut. Try
it today.

FREE Recipe Booklet mailed to you and friends you men-
tion. Write for it. Recipes for a coconut cake and pie will be
found on the inner side of the can label.

If Baker's Canned or Dry-Shred Coconut is not obtainable at
your grocer's, send 20c. in stamps for full-sized can or package.
And please mention yourdealer's name.

THE FRANKLIN BAKER COMPANY

« Philadelphia, Penna.

FREE — A full-size can of Baker's canned-in-its-own-milk Coconut will be forwarded
to active domestic science teachers and institution chefs free of charge. Please make
your requests on your business letterhead.

According to Bulletin No. 28 of the Department of Agriculture, "Fresh coconut
affords 2760 calories per pound and is second only to butter and salt pork
among the staple foods, as per the following analysis:

Fat . . 50.6 per cent Protein . . 5.7 per cent .

Carbohydrates 27.9 " " Ash . . 1.7

It is a valuable base (non-acid-forming) food

Buy Baker's Dry-
Shred Coconut if
you prefer the old-
fashioned sugar-
cured kind in
paper cartons.

COCONUT CROQUETTES

1 Can Baker's Fresh Grated
Coconut

2 cups Granulated Sugar

1 cup Coconut Milk

2 Egg Whites
Pinch of Baking Soda

Press Coconut thoroughly
Illustrated on can label
Place 3-4 of the pressed
Coconut, Sugar and Coco-
nut Milk into saucepan,
stir over slow fire until
dissolved, then boil until
it forms a soft ball when
dipped in cold water, about
12 to 15 minutes. Add the hot
sugar syrup slowlv to well beaten
egg whites, beating all the while,
then add pinch of soda and beat
until thick.

Form into steeples and roll in
the remainder of the Coconut.
Preferably toast coconut slightly
in oven before rolling croquettes.

BAKERS

**■* J«.

COCONUT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

697

AMERICAN COOKERY

"What is the cost of one can of pimientos and
of one pound of the cheese?"

Tinned Milk

By tinned milk the writer doubtless
means the evaporated, that is, the un-
sweetened condensed milk. A small can
of pimientos costs about 20 cents, and
the Pimiento Cheese is quoted variously
at from 60 to 80 cents a pound.

Query No. 4137. — "Please give me a re-
cipe for Italian Ravioli?"

Italian Ravioli

Into one cup of flour in a bowl drop one
unbeaten egg, and one-fourth a teaspoonful
of salt. Knead to a stiff paste, the same
as a noodle paste. Roll out to one-
fourth an inch thick, and use this as the
foundation for the Ravioli. The paste
can be cut into squares or circles, and
simply spread with grated cheese and
cooked in gravy for five minutes, to
melt the cheese. Or a mixture of
chopped chicken livers, young onions,

Baby Midget

HOSE SUPPORTER

holds the socks securely and allows the little one
absolute freedom of action, so necessary to its
health, growth and comfort. The highly nickeled
parts of the " Baby Midget " have smooth,
rounded corners and edges and they do not come
in contact with the baby's skin.
Like the Velvet Grip Hose Supporters for
women, misses and children it is equipped
with the famous All-Rubber Oblong Button,
which prevents slipping and ruthless ripping.

Silk, 15 cents; Lisle, 10 cents

SOLD EVERYWHERE OR SENT POSTPAII.
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON

and cheese, may be spread on the squares,
covered with similar squares of the paste,
pressed together, and cooked five minutes
in bouillon. Or forcemeat balls of any
kind may be enclosed between squares,
and these either steamed, or poached in
bouillon.

Query No. 4138. — "I wish a recipe for a
Brown Sugar Sauce for puddings; also one for
Breadcrumb Stuffing; and one for Indian Pudding
boiled in a cloth?"

Brown Sugar Sauce

Boil one-half a cup of brown sugar to |
the soft-ball stage, as you would for
frosting. Beat into it the beaten white of
one egg, and one-half a cup of thin cream,
or top milk. If heavy cream is used, it
should be whipped, and will make a |
much richer sauce.

Breadcrumb Stuffing

An excellent recipe for this will be
found on page 273 of American Cookery
for November. This is equally good for
fowl and for roast meats. In the latter
case, it is put in the pan from one-half to
three-quarters of an hour before the
meat has finished cooking. It need not
be basted.

Boiled Indian Pudding

Add one-half a teaspoonful of salt to
two cups of boiling water, remove from
fire, and stir into this two cups of Indian
meal, and one-half cup of very fine
chopped suet. Add two eggs, beaten
light, one-half cup of molasses or sugar,
one-half teaspoonful of powdered ginger,
and two cups of hot milk. Beat all
together until well mixed, let stand until
nearly cool, then boil for two hours in a
well-floured cloth, leaving plenty of
room for the pudding to swell, and putting
a small plate at the bottom of the kettle
to keep the pudding from burning.

A LOST ART RESTORED

To restore the color of faded goods
And to make them look like new,

Wash with Sawyer's Crystal Ammonia
Rinse with Sawyer's Crystal Blue.

ADV.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

698

ADVERTISEMENTS

Bubble Grains

Puffed Wheat and Rice are
whole grains puffed to eight
times normal size. They

taste like food confections —
like nut-meats puffed and
toasted. But they are scien-
tific foods created by Prof.
A. P. Anderson.

Flimsy- -Flavory

They are so thin, so fragile
that they seem like fairy
foods. Yet the very utmost
in a food for children is Puffed
Wheat in milk. If you want
a child to love whole-grain
foods this is the way to serve
them.

Puffed Wheat
Puffed Rice
Corn Puffs

Puffed Rice
Pancake Flour

A New Puffed Grain
Delight

We Explode

The Wheat, So Every Atom Feeds

These wheat bubbles are created by internal steam
explosion. We cause in each kernel more than 100
million explosions — one to every food cell.

The purpose is to fit the grains for easy, complete
digestion. And to make every element available
as food.

So Puffed Grains are ideal foods for anv
hungry hour. Not for mealtime only, but
between meals. Crisp and douse with melted
butter and let children eat like peanuts.

Mix in every dish of fruit. Serve in everv
bowl of milk. Scatter like nut-meats
on ice cream. Serve in soups.

Such Pancakes

As You Never Tasted

We now make Puffed Rice
y Pancake Flour — an ideal
mixture with ground Puffed
Rice. It makes the pan-
cakes light and fluffy, and gives a nut-like taste. Simply
add milk or water, for the flour is self-raising, and you'll
make the finest pancakes that you ever knew. Try it now.

The Quaker Oars (bmpany

Sole Makers

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

699

AMERICAN COOKERY

.,••

~5~&~

<*L

"Her luncheons are perfect I Her din-
ners— delicious ! "

Is that said of you ? Or are you satisfied
with "just plain meals ?

With Cox's Gelatine, you'll find it easy
to make those dainty surprises that make
each meal delightful.

A little fruit and Cox's Gelatine will
make the daintiest of salads. A bit of meat
or perhaps some fish — so often left over —
Cox's will transform into one of those deli-
cious savories so tempting to the appetite
and so attractive to serve.

There's no end to the variety of dainties
you can concoct with Cox's Gelatine.
You'll find them all in our "Manual of
Gelatine Cookery." Write for a copy. It
will help you in all your cooking.

THE COX GELATINE CO.

Dept. D 100 Hudson St.. New York

ASPIC JELLY

1 envelope COX'S INSTANT POWDERED

GELATINE
3 cups water \ teaspoon salt

I bay leaf % teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons vinegar % tablespoon lemon Juice
1 thin slice onion

Pour water into sauce pan, sprinkle in Gelatine;
add all other ingredients. Place over slow fire
and beat until mixture comes to boiling point;
allow to settle for 5 minutes and strain through
cheesecloth into wet mold.

Aspic jelly is used in molding savories such as
eggs, fish, meats and vegetables; and is used for
garnishing cold ham, tongue, poultry, etc.

Instant Powdered

GELATINE

The Silver Lining

A Difference With a Distinction

A fond youth who by Cupid was smit,
Called his loved one a pearl 'cause it fit.

But he calls this same girl,

Now, a p-u-r-1;
For, you see, she ne'er ceases to knit!

— Blanche Elizabeth Wade.

Hard for Cleopatra

So that is Cleopatra's Needle," said
the sightseer as he gazed at the noble
monolith.

"Yes," said his friend and guide
proudly, "that is Cleopatra's Needle."

The sightseer was silent. Then he
lowered his gaze, and surveyed the indus-
trious knitters in the sun, plying their
own needles between glimpses at the
wonder.

"Say," said he meditatively, "Cleo-
patra must have found it rather awkward
to purl with that thing, don't you know."
— ■ Blanche Elizabeth Wade.

A Tragic Mistake

"My dear," said a man to his newly-
married wife, "where did all these books
on astronomy come from? They are not

ours.

•>•>

"A pleasant little surprise for you," re-
sponded his wife. "You know, my dear,
you said this morning that we ought to
study astronomy; and so I went to the
bookseller's and bought everything I
could on the subject."

It was some minutes before he spoke.

"My dear," he then said, slowly, his
voice husky with emotion, "I never said
we must study astronomy; I said we must
study economy." — Tit-Bits.

A certain American Senator, deploring
the dishonest methods of one type of
business man, once remarked with a
smile, "It all brings back to me a dia-
logue I once heard in a Southern school:
'Children,' said the teacher, 'be diligent
and steadfast, and you will succeed.
Take the case of George Washington,
whose birthday we are soon to celebrate.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

700

ADVERTISEMENTS

c/7 Canned uoodj^e

essaae
-especially to cHQnen

SALUTE the canned food
on your pantry shelf. The
Pure Food Laws — commenda-
ble and necessary though they
are — are yet far exceeded in
the requirements which the
great organized food canning
industry of the United States
lays down for itself.

This is not an arm repre-
senting force or compulsion.
Rather, it represents a united
ambition on the part of a vast
industry to keep itself in spirit
and in practice above any
necessity of laws of regulation.

Little wonder, then, that
the canning industry has been
called "the industry which
legislates for itself!" Never
does this industry forget that
it is dealing with food — with

food, the thing of such vast
consequence to the little family
circle of the American home.
In a very real way it realizes
its responsibility and in a very
real way it faces its responsi-
bility.

If only you could see food canned
For Yourself

Every American housewife
should have the privilege of
following through some of the
great canneries of fruit, vege-
tables, soup, meat, sea food,
milk and other products. Fol-
low the Inspector of the Asso-
ciation as he passes, on one of
his visits, from the supply of
fresh foods to the sorting,
cleaning, preparing; follow the
Inspector all the way through
to the sealing of the cans, the

final cooking, cooling and stor-
ing away.

The Inspector represents a
system which constantly, and
at great expense, searches out
the latest scientific facts of
importance to this vital work
of supplying the family table.
He is a symbol of the pains-
taking care with which the
canning business is conducted.
He represents the earnest de-
termination of the industry to
supply our families with the
best of food, clean, wholesome,
nourishing and safe.

The tin can brings delicious food
at Any Time of Year

And so may American
housewives, mentally at least,
salute the most self-respecting
of objects, the can of food. You
are standing before a very
wonderful thing — a product
which knows the limitations
of neither climate nor season,
coming to you at any time and
from any place. Richly it de-
serves its title — "The Miracle
on Your Table."

National Catiners Association, Washington, D. C.

A nation-wide organization formed in 1907, consisting of producers of all varieties of
hermetically sealed canned foods which hare been sterilized by heat. It neither pro-
daces, buys, nor sells. Its purpose is to assure for the mutual benefit of the industry and
the public, the best canned foods that scientific knowledge and human skill can produce.

Chnne&Fojld^Mirui
tk on Your

19t0 National Cannert Association

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

701

AMERICAN COOKERY

rrawford

You can use gas broiler and
three ovens at the same time

That's a time-saving, step-saving, labor-
saving convenience offered you by no
range but the Victory Crawford.

And such a handsome range it is — com-
pact, easy to clean, efficient. Only 43
inches from end to end, yet it has four
coal griddles, five top gas burners, and
(with racks) thirteen square feet of
oven space.

These are only a few of the features
which account for the Victory being
known as "the biggest little range on
the market." Your local Crawford
dealer will gladly show you others.

Sold by Leading Dealers

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO,

BOSTON, U. S. A.

Makers of Highest Quality Ranges
furnaces and Boilers

Do you remember my telling you of the
great difficulty George Washington had to
contend with?' 'Yes, ma'am,' said a

little boy.

'He couldn't tell a lie.' "
— • Liverpool Post.

Fitness Recognized

"Rastus, how is it you have given up
going to church?" asked Pastor Brown.

"Well, san," replied Rastus, "it's dis
way. I likes to take an active part, an' I
used to pass de collection basket, but
dey's give de job to Brothah Green, who
jest returned from Ovah Thair-ah."

"In recognition of his heroic service, I
suppose."

y|"No, sah, I reckon he got dat job in
reco'nition o' his having lost one o' his
hands. "

John D. Rockefeller, Jr., said in a dis-
cussion of the divorce evil: "So many men
are like Dr. Cutler. 'Doctor,' I said to
him one day, 'how is it I never see you
any more at the theatre or restaurant
with your former sweetheart, Miss
Amanda?' 'Oh, Amanda's married now,'
said Dr. Cutler. 'Indeed,' said I. 'To
whom?' 'To me,' said Dr. Cutler."
— • Pittsburgh Chronicle-Telegraph.

Teco Muffins

2 cups Teco Pancake Flour
1 tablespoonful sugar
1 egg — ■ beaten lightly
Mix thoroughly
Water — to make a stiff batter
Drop into muffin tins and bake in quick oven.

DIETITIANS WANTED FOR

HOSPITAL POSITIONS

EVERYWHERE

Many excellent positions now open
for Dietitians in all parts of the United
States. If interested in securing a
Hospital position anywhere, send for
free book. Write today for it.

AZNOE'S CENTRAL REGISTRY FOR
NURSES

30 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
702

ADVERTISEMENTS

Uncle John's
Syrup

A pure cane and maple
syrup with the real flavor
from the maple grove.
Best for every table and
cooking purpose. Ask
for it.

NEW ENGLAND MAPLE SYRUP CO.

Winter Hill

BOSTON, MASS.

Write for FREE COPY of UNCLE JOHN'S RECIPES,
showing new and pleasing ways to use it.

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
and retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMOVESCO.

Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 ^oz., .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 16oz., $1.00 "
(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

ECONOMY!

You may use so little at a time
that the thought of Spice-Econ-
omy never arises. But there is a
money-saving difference in spices.

Brand

SPICES

because of their strength and great purity

save money for you. A little does a lot — they

last longer.

BEE BRAND Spices are the BEST, SAFEST and
MOST ECONOMICAL spicts on the market, preferred
by cookery-experts everywhere because they come to
the pantry shelf with the original STRENGTH and
QUALITY of their natural FLAVOR preserved for
your use.

BEE BRAND Spices are selected, cleaned and ground
under most rigid inspection and hermetically sealed in
sanitary containers, free from all dirt or foreign matter.
From the moment they enter our warehouses until
YOU open the package, no human hands touch them.
They are PL RE Spices.

For good-cooking aids, insist on BEE BRAND Spices,
Flavoring Extracts, Gelatin, Prepared Mayonnaise, Green
Seal Salad Dressing, Green Seal Mustard Dressing, etc.
Guaranteed absolutely pure.

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, Md.

Importers anci Manufacturers

(Packers of the Famous BANQUET TEA)

Write for our FREE
BOOKLETS, giving in-
teresting facts concerning
spices, teas and flavoring
extracts.

BEE BRA ND Manual of
Cookery may now be se-
cured for 50c in coir of

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept tubstitutes

703

AMERICAN COOKERY

Price's

Van i ll a

When recipes for
custards, cakes,
and puddings, etc.
call for a definite
amount of vanilla
— use Price's.

You'll run no chances
of spoiling them, for
Price's is just right
in strength. It's
pure, too!

PRICE FLAVORING
EXTRACT CO.

In Business 67 Years
Chicago, U. S. A.

Trad* Mark B«glat«rad.

;vx

Gluten Flouivfiv

k 40% GLUTEN *~^^l

Guaranteed to comply in all respects *o

•taadard requirements of U. 8. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured by

FARWELL & SHINES

Watcrtowp. N. Y.

Z*V

V*X

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
\ (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

8 Inches Square
5 Inches High

I teach you to make them better than
you ever made them before— the most
delicious Angel Food Cake and many other kinds,
the most appetizing cakes you ever tasted.
They Sell for S3.00— Profit, $2.00
1 will make you the most expert cake-maker in
your vicinity. Your cakes will be praised and
sought for. Your cakes will become famous, if
you make them by the

Osborn Cake Making System
My methods are original. They never
fail. They are easy to learn; you are
sure to succeed the very first time. I
have taught thousands. I can teach you.
Let me send you particulars feee.
Dept. MRS. GRACE OSBORN
L-4 Bay City Michigan

Nevermore

The landlady of a well-known London
boarding-house made a point of asking
her departing guests to write something
in her visitor's book. She was very
proud of some of the names of the people
inscribed in it, and of the nice things that
were said. "But there is one thing I
can't understand," she confided to a
friend, "and that is what an American
put in the book after stopping here.
People always smile when they read it."
"What was it?" queried the other. "He
wrote only the words, 'Quoth the
raven.

> >>

Another Joshua

A man was brought in court for the
illicit distilling of whiskey.

" What is your name ? " asked the judge.

"Joshua," replied the prisoner.

"Joshua?" repeated the judge. "Ah!
Are you the Joshua who made the sun
stand still?"

"No, sir, judge," was the answer. "I
is the man who made the moon shine."
— N. Y. Truth Seeker.

Married a Native

They were looking at the kangaroo at
the zoo when an Irishman said: "Beg
pardon, sor; phwat kind of a creature is
that?"

"Oh," said the gentleman, "that is a
native of Australia."

"Good hivins!" exclaimed Pat; "an'
me sister married wan of thim."

— Boston Transcript.

Unrest

What do you work at, my poor man?
"At intervals, lady."

— ■ St. Paul Non-Partizan Leader.

ANGLEFOO

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says in the

Bulletin : Special pains should be taken

to prevent children from

drinking poisoned baites

and poisoned flies dropping

into foods or drinks.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

ADVERTISEMENTS

Not So Bad this Month

For the first time in many months the expense account fails to pro-
duce anxiety and wrinkles. "It's the first time," the young housekeeper
says, "the figures haven't given me a horrid feeling."

What a lot of money and time she has wasted on things to eat,
and especially desserts, when Jell-0 would have helped her out.

Millions of American women understand just how Jell-0 helps
them out. To any who do not we shall be glad to
send a copy of the 1920 Jell-0 Book, which contains
fuller information on this important point than any
published heretofore.

Jell-0 is made in six pure fruit flavors : Strawberry,
Raspberry, Lemon, Orange, Chocolate, Cherry, and is sold
by all grocers and dealers.

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY
Le Roy, N. Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont.

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

705

AMERICAN COOKERY

Instant

Make It Yourself

You can always have perfectly-
delicious syrup for ho t cakes and
waffles by dissolving granulated
sugar in hot water and adding —

MAPLEINE

JAq Gofdon7favor

Mapleine is a pure vegetable flavoring
that gives a delightful mapley
taste and rich golden color to
the many foods it flavors. It
is unexcelled for desserts,
pudding sauces, cake f nest-
ings, candies and syrup.
Your grocer can supply you

2 oz. bottle 35c

Canada 50c
4c stamp and trade-mark from
Mapleine carton will bring the
Mapleine Cook Book of 200
recipes including many desserts.

CRESCENT MFG. CO.

323 Occidental Ave., - Seattle. Wash.

EST

^JT> Jin

TEN- CENT MEALS

$2.00 per week
per person : 42
meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

friends

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

The Graduate Housekeeper

THE demand for expert assist-
ance in private and public
homes cannot be supplied.
Salaries range from $75 to $100 a
month, or more, with full living ex-
penses, comfortable quarters, and an
average of eight hours a day "on
duty." Professionally trained house-
keepers, placed by us, are given the
social recognition due experts.

Here is an excellent opportunity — our new
home-study course for professional housekeepers
will teach you to become an expert in the selec-
tion and preparation of food, in healthful diet
and food values, in marketing and household
accounts, in the management of the cleaning,
laundry work, mending, child care and train-
ing, — in all the manifold activities of the
home. When you graduate we place you in a
satisfactory position without charge. Some
positions are non-resident, others part-time.

The training is based on our Household Engi-
neering course, with much of our Home Economics
and Lessons in Cooking courses required. Usually
the work'can be completed and diploma awarded
in six months, though three years is allowed.
The lessons are wonderfully interesting and just
what every housekeeper ought to have for her own
home. Why not be a $150 per month housekeeper?

To those who enroll this month, we are giv-
ing, free, our Complete Domestic Science
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths
leather style. This contains our full Home
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus-
trations, — a complete professional library.

This is only one of several professional and
homemakers' courses included in our special offer.
Full details on request.

American School of Home Economics

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

Please give information about your Correspondence
Course marked X

Professional

.Graduate Housekeepers'
Institution Management
.Lunch Room Management
.Teaching Domestic Science
.Home Demonstrators'
.Practical Nurses' Course
.Dietitians' Course

Home Maker's
....Household Engineering
....Lessons in Cooking
....Full Home Economics
....Special Food
....Special Health
....Special Motherhood
....Complete Reading

Name

(Miss or Mrs.)

Address

Information

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose )

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
706

ADVERTISEMENTS

WH/fitopJ %*&£

DISHES THAT MEN LIKE

WE are always looking for dishes that will please the masculine taste — dishes which once eaten often
reappear "by special request." In these Perfection Salad and Snow Pudding recipes you will
find such dishes, for they have won universal favor with the men wherever they have been served —
and I know they have been favorites in my own home for years.

Not only will the masculine members of your family appreciate these dishes, but you will like
them too, because they are easy to make and may be made with syrup in place of sugar, when that
precious article soars in price or is impossible to get.

PERFECTION SALAD

2 cup sugar or

Yt cupful of syrup

1 teaspoonful salt

1 cup cabbage, finely shredded

Yi cup mild vinegar
2 cups boiling water
2 cups celery, cut small
2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice

14, can sweet red peppers or
fresh peppers finely cut

1 envelope KNOX Sparkling
Gelatine

Yl cup cold water

Soak the gelatine in cold water five minutes; add vinegar, lemon juice, boiling water, sugar and salt; stir until dissolved.
Strain and when beginning to set add remaining ingredients. Turn into mold, first dipped in cold water, and chill. Serve
on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise dressing, or cut in dice and serve in cases made of red or green peppers; or the mixture
may be shaped in molds lined with pimentoes.
In my recipes no special molds are required; — any vegetable, china or glass dish will mold them nicely.

NOTE: Use fruits instead of vegetables in the above recipe and you have a delicious fruit salad.

SNOW PUDDING

Yi envelope KNOX Sparkling Gela- s/i cup sugar or

tine % cup of syrup

\i cup cold water % cup lemon juice

1 cup boiling water Whites of 2 eggs

Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes, dissolve in boiling water and add sugar, lemon juice and grated rind of one lemon;
strain and set aside; occasionally stir mixture, and when quite thick beat with wire spoon or whisk until frothy; add whites
of eggs beaten stiff, and continue beating until stiff enough to hold its shape. Pile by spoonfuls on glass dish or put in
mold. Chill and serve with boiled custard.

NOTE: When syrup is used in these recipes in place of sugar omit J cup boiling water from quantity given in recipe.

What "4tol" Means

My gelatine is preferred by home-makers because of its economy. One package of Knox Spark-
ling Gelatine will serve a family of six with four different salads or desserts for four luncheons or
dinners, while the ready-prepared packages will do for only one meal. That is why experts call
Knox the "4 to I" Gelatine — it lasts four times as long, goes four times as far, and serves four times

as many people as the ready-prepared packages.
Special Home Service

There are many other ideas and "dishes that men like" and
women, too, in my recipe books "Dainty Desserts" and "Food
Economy." Send for them, enclosing a 2c stamp and mention-
ing your grocer's name.

Any domestic science teacher can have sufficient gelatine for her
class, if she will write me on school stationery, stating quantity
and when needed.

Wherever a recipe calls for Gelatine — it means " KNOX"

MRS. CHARLES B. KNOX

KNOX GELATINE

107 Knox Avenue, Johnstown, N. Y.

KNOX

GElatII|£

CKMU3 5.«CJ< SfLCStCOJac

GElatiNE

ch «us iJneluuTMi ca*c

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

707

AMERICAN COOKERY

GOSSOM'S CREAM SOUPS

GOSSOM'S

J»CHg CO.Vrf.-.VTJgATEP &OWS

In Powdered Form

Split pea, Green pea, Lima, Celery, Black bean, Clam
Chowder, Onion and (Mushroom 25c.)

Quickly and Easily Prepared
Just add water and boil 15 minutes. One package makes 3
pints of pure, wholesome and delicious soup. Price 15c at
leading grocers, or sample sent prepaid on receipt of 20c in
stamps or coin.

Also "GOSSOM'S "QUICK-MADE" FUDGE
will give you a delightful surprise. So easy. A 50c pkg.
makes over a pound of the most exquisite fudge.

Manufactured by
B. F. Gossom, 692 Washington St., Brockline, 46, Mass.

¥5&==

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Kecipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. 1 65 Oliver st„ boston, mass.

Free-Hand Cooking

Cook without recipes— a key to cookbooks — correct proportions,
time, temperature, thickening,leavening,shortening,etc. 40p.book.
10 cents or FREE if you are interested in Domestic Science courses.

Am. School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

^— ®Red label

Spices

TheA.ColburnCa,
Philadelphia,U.SA.

SERVICE TABLE WAGON

rr 5ERVLS YOUR HOMt AND
SAVES YOUR TIME THAT
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
'Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles — Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high gradt piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for General Utility.
ease of action, and absolute
noiaelessness. WRITE NOW
for a Descriptive Pamphlet
and Dealers Name.

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

5041 Cunard BWg. Chicago, III.

for Special ^ iyflfMCl^

Factory Price

on 12,SOO

Rapids!

/Be one of the first
12,500 women to
write me. Get my new'
special rock - bottom
price on a Rapid. I've
made these special of-
fers before like the
department stores do.
The big difference is you
get the lowest factory-to-kitchen price
from me. Here's your chance to save money. Aluminum lined
throughout — full set high-grade aluminum utensils with each
cooker. 30 days' free trial before you decide. Saves 2-3 to
3-4 fuel costs, 1-2 the work. But you must write soon ! Getmy
big Home Science Book Free — gives you all the details of my
low price offer. Send post card NOW. Win. Campbell, Pres.
The Wm. Campbell Co., Dept. 173 , Detroit, Mich.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

lycos

Sr CANDY

CANDY
THERMOMETER

ELICIOUS»creams, /

fondants>
syrups — you can
make them all ex-
pertly if you test
the temperature of
the batch fre-
quently with
Tycos Candy
Thermometer.*;

Price, $2 00

Taylor Candy
Booklet, free on
request; full of
delicious
recipes-
AT YOUR

dealer's

lay/or Instrument Companies

ROCHESTER N.Y.
There's a lycos or Taylor Thermometer for Every Purpose

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

708

ADVERTISEMENTS

BURNHAM & MORRILL
FISH FLAKES

Are perfect for preparing any number of
appetizing dishes at small cost.

Cod Fish Cakes Fish Salad

Creamed Cod Fish Fish Souffle

B & M Fish Flakes possess the freshness of old ocean.

We catch only deep-sea fish, keeping the choicest of full .
meated Cod and Haddock. Skilfully cooked, only the
firm white meat is sealed in air-tight parchment-lined
tins. You will enjoy the ease and economy of preparing
a great variety of fish dishes that will delight the whole
family.

"Good Eating" a helpful book of recipes for B & M Fish
Flakes, sent free on request.

Direct from the sea to you and immediately obtainable.
AT YOUR GROCER'S

BURNHAM & MORRILL COMPANY

75 Water St.

Portland

Maine

Buy advertised Goods — Do'not accept substitutes

709 ~

AMERICAN COOKERY

EMCO

A SIGN
V O Iwl

mhhhSHU

EMCO PRODoSH

*W (m CARTON^

CLOy

on i lave

AlwaiijsWaraecL
This EMCO KibWBicltag

THIS PACKAGE CONTAINS
50 EMCO Wooden Dinner Plates 2500 EMCO Toothpicks

60 EMCO Clothespins 12 EMCO Handy Wooden Dishes

ALL THIS POSTPAID FOR ONE DOLLAR

THE PLATES

"Better than a maid" is the way one woman spoke of the EMCO Wooden
Dinner Plate. It's a dinner plate made of genuine sugar maple, strong, sani-
tary, light, saves dishwashing and china, so handy about the house and kitchen
and just the thing for picnics.

THE TOOTHPICKS
You are sure EMCO Toothpicks are clean, for they are put into hermetically
sealed packages at the factory.

THE CLOTHESPINS
Here's a real clothespin — big enough to be strong, small enough to be handy,
smooth -and perfect in every way.

THE HANDY DISHES
Just the thing for left-overs which are stored in ice box and pantry. Also

handy on the cooking table. You can
work them continually in the kitchen.

Send a dollar today and get this pack-
age of labor-saving things by return mail.

CO.

ESCANABA MFG
Department D

Escanaba, Mich.

Herewith find $1.00 for which please send
me postpaid the EMCO Kitchen Package.

Name

Street

City State...

Escanaba Manufacturing Company

Dept. D.
Escanaba. Michigan

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

710

ADVERTISEMENTS

Good food makes
sturdy youngsters

TX7ELL-FED, well - nourished
** boys and girls have the
health, the stamina, the enthusiasm
that is the foundation for forceful
men and women. Wilson's Certi-
fied Ham is the ham for hungry,
growing youngsters. Nutritious,
tempting in flavor, almost waste-
less— it is a full value food that
makes muscle.

WILSON'S Certified Ham is se-
lected, handled and prepared
with respect, just as is Wilson's
Certified Bacon and every other prod-
uct bearing the Wilson label. Ask

your dealer for Wilson's products.
♦ ♦ ♦

We will gladly mail you, free, a copy of
"Wilson's Meat Cookery," our book on the
economical purchase and cooking of meats.
Write for it now. Address Wilson & Co.,
Dept. 447, 41st and Ashland Ave., Chicago.

WILSON & CO.

ynvi <jmvu*tte*'

X7 — v7

o%e \AsyJLbQvi, -Ca&eJL -tyioisJcSd -^uuwr -£5&&l-

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

711

AMERICAN COOKERY

Serve More Cheese!

8 Varieties

Kraft

Chile

Swiss

Pimento

Rarebit

Camembert

Roquefort

Limburger

■4H

Cheese is the condensed goodness of
pure milk — contains more than twice
the food value of meat.

Combined with other foods it adds variety to your menu
and gives the family more nourishment at less cost.

The patented Kraft process that sterilizes this blended
product really pre-digests it — makes Elkhorn "like you"
— and the parchment lined, air-tight tin brings this
highly nourishing food to your table with all its original
purity and smooth, creamy richness.

Eight varieties in tins. No rind, no waste; stock your
pantry shelves — guaranteed to keep until opened.

Send your dealer's name and 10c in stamps or coin for
sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or 20c
for both. Illustrated book of recipes free. Address
361-3 River St., Chicago, Illinois.

J. L. Kraft & Bros. Co.

Chicago New York

IN TINS -8 ^VARIETIES

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

712

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Flavor
Exactly Right

Your cakes, puddings, frostings, and ices can taste
exactly as delicious as they should ! Much depends
on the flavoring. It must be and will be exactly
right if you are careful to buy

Stickney & Poor's
Vanilla

Full strength, full measure, unquestioned purity.
Made from selected, best quality, thoroughly-
cured Vanilla Beans. No wonder its flavor is
just right! When you buy Vanilla, make sure
that you get Stickney & Poor's.

Stickney & Poor Spice Company

1815— Century Old —Century Honored — 1920

MujUrd-Spicei BOSTON and HALIFAX Seaaonings-FIarorings

THE NATfONAL MUSTARD POT

Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

713

AMERICAN COOKERY

Think What These Splendid
Features Mean!

1 — Heavy lugs, cast solid, no
rivets.

2 — Hinge and bail lug one solid
piece.

3 — Easy pouring spout.

4 — Heavy metal sides.

5 — Reinforced solid corner, pos-
sible only in cast metal.

6 — Cool handle, non-conductor
of heat.

7 — Erect, non-swerving, bail.

8 — Extra heavy bottom, thick-
ness where needed.

And the special Wagner Silvery

Finish adds the perfect touch to

on ideal utensil.

THE
WAGNER
MFG. CO.

Dept. 74

Sidney, Ohio

Solid Metal!

See for yourself the features which
distinguish every cooking utensil of
Wagner Cast Aluminum. Being cast
in one solid piece, there are no rivets to
loosen, no seams to break open, no
welded parts and the metal is of thick-
ness needed at all points of strain.
This explains why Wagner Cast Alu-
minum Ware lasts "from generation
to generation."

And when you combine with this durability
and superior cooking qualities the most beau-
tiful designs and finish you have utensils that
are ideal from every standpoint. Wagner
Ware may cost a bit more — but you never
have occasion to buy it but once. Ask your
dealer or write to us. Illustrated booklet
on request.

AGNE

CAST ALUMINUM

Makers of Wag-
ner Cast Alu-
minum and
Wagner Iron
De Luxe Cook-
ing Utensils.

'From Generation to Generation'*

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

714

ADVERTISEMENTS

gtifegftapt

for SER

Ask your grocer and butcher to use

Riteshape Wooden Dishes

for packaging your bulk foods

The Riteshape does not waste or soak up the food it carries.
The Riteshape serves you in the home after it gets there
with the food.

The Oval Wood Dish Company

FACTORY AT TUPPER LAKE, N. Y.

EASTERN OFFICE WESTERN OFFICE

110W. 40th St. 37 S. Wabash Ave.

New York City Chicago, 111.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

715

AMERICAN COOKERY

Two Uses at Once
From a Single Socket

The convenient use of any electrical
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AMERICAN COOKERY

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AMERICAN COOKERY

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721

AMERICAN COOKERY

Vol. XXIV MAY, 1920 No. 10

CONTENTS FOR MAY

PAGE

COLLEGE GIRLS' VACATION WORK. 111. . . Priscilla Porter 731
THE PIE AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW Mabel S. Merrill 736

ONE MISTY, MOISTY MORNING Ruth Fargo 740

THE EMPTY HOUSE .743

UTILIZING LEFT-OVERS Mary Bruce Washburn 744

AN HERB-BORDER, CULINARY AND MEDICINAL

F. M. Christianson 745

BREAKFASTS Mary D. Chambers 747

EDITORIALS 750-752

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-
tone engravings of prepared dishes)

Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers 753

MENUS, WELL-BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN MAY 762

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS 763

GAINING TIME IN THE HOME Salina S. Martin 764

SOUP OF THE DAY Helen Bowen 765

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — For the Young Housewife —
A Fair Exchange — ■ Cheese — ■ Guava — Olives — ■ Truffles — ■ A Way
to Save Soap — • Little Bits — ■ Table Etiquette in England —
Vitamines 767

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 772

THE SILVER LINING 780

MISCELLANEOUS 784

$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy fy

Foreign postage 40c additional

Entered at Boston post-office as second class matter

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston 17, Mass.

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose

722

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723

AMERICAN COOKERY

INDEX FOR MAY

Breakfasts ....

College Girls' Vacation Work

Editorials ....

Empty House, The

Gaining Time in the Home

Herb-Border, Culinary and Medicinal, An

Home Ideas and Economies .

Menus .....

Miscellaneous ....

One Misty, Moisty Morning .

Pie at the End of the Rainbow, The

Silver Lining, The

Soup of the Day ....

Utilizing Left-Overs

762,

PAGE

747
731
750
743
764
745
767
763
784
740
736
780
765
744

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

Asparagus, Molded

Asparagus with Buttered Crumbs.

Banana, Broiled. .

Bread, Noisette. 111.

Cake for Decoration Day

Cake for May Queen

Cakes, May Party

Cheese, Delicious .

Chicken en Casserole.

Chicken, Roast Spring

Olives
Cream, Strawberry Bavarian.
Dasheen au Gratin. 111.
Dressing, Cream Salad .
Dressing for Pear Salad .
Kisses, Oatmeal
Onions, Stuffed. 111.

111.

111. .

Stuffed with Ripe

'ill.

754 Pie, Rhubarb-and-Raisin

757 Potato, Duchesse. 111. .

754 Pudding, Black Cherry .
757 Rolls, American Crusty
761 Salad, Cherry, with Cream Dressing. Ill
761 Salad, Pear. 111. .

759 Sauce, Asparagus, for Roast Lamb or
761 Chicken .....

755 Sauce, Horseradish
Shad, Planked. 111.

756 Soup, Asparagus-and-Chicken

760 Soup, King of Russian .

757 Squab, Broiled. 111.
760 Steak, Salisbury, with Horseradish Sauce

758 and Broiled Banana. 111.
754 Tart, Strawberry Cream
756 Waffles for May Breakfasts

758
754
761
759
760
758

753"

754

753

756

754
758
753

Beef, How to Corn
Beef, How to Spice
Coffee, How to Make Good
Cookies, Chocolate
Cookies, Drop
Cooking at High Altitudes

QUERIES AND ANSWERS

774 French Pastries, Popular

774 Luncheon, Wedding Buffet

774 Paste, Marshmallow

778 Pastry, French "Leaf" .

778 Pork, How to Pickle

776 Sugar and Corn Syrup in Canning

772
772
776
771
774
776

AMERICAN COOKERY

BOSTON, MASS.

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ADVERTISEMENTS

Soo

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For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or

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725

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cooking For Two

A Handbook for Young Wives
By Janet McKenzie Hill

"'Cooking for Two' is exactly what it
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Salads, Sandwiches and
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726

The Call of the Spring

Like the horn of the hunter sounding
Far and faint from the hill,
Setting the red blood bounding,
Making the pulses thrill,
With her fairy pipers playing
Their mad and merry glee,
The white Spring goes to the Maying,
And she calls to the heart of me.

Sweet are the notes of the veery,

That will o' the wisp of song,

Witching and wild, and cheery,

Luring one's feet along.

And I would be glad to follow

To the world's end, if need be,

For he calls from each tangled hollow,

To be up, and away and free.

But only my heart goes straying,
From the din of the city street,
And I only dream of the swaying
Daisy-starred meadows sweet.
And only my fancy lingers
Where the wild white hawthorns blow>
When Spring with her fairy fingers
Has garlanded them with snow.

— Christine Kerr Davis

BREAKFAST HOUR. "WE ARE HUNGRY"

merican

VOL. XXIV

Cook

ery

MAY

No. 10

College Girls' Vacation Work

By Priscilla Porter

WHERE, oh where are the sweet
college girls, and what, oh
what do they do? One may
well wonder when passing through de-
serted dormitories or the student quarters
of any city during vacation time. And
it does seem as if one can find them
everywhere doing the most unexpected
kinds of work. Sometimes unexpected,
because of its peculiarity or unusual
aspect, and sometimes surprising, because
of its very prosaic nature.

Each year the number of self-support-
ing college girls increases. Most of the
students find it easier and more con-
venient to earn the necessary funds by
putting their summer "vacation" to

good advantage. Then they sometimes
rind, unexpectedly, that the problems
they^ face and the lessons they learn in
just that short time are of almost as much
value as the whole academic term.

Xo matter what sort of work they may
do they are almost sure to learn as never
before the proper valuation of time, self-
reliance, which one must cultivate, and
a knowledge of people acquired by^ con-
tact with them in the struggle to make
both ends meet. When they, finally,
go out into the world these things wiJ3
give them an advantage that enables
them to forge rapidly to the front and ir.
whatever field of effort they engage-
most of these girls are able to out-dis-

DESPITE RAIN THE TOURISTS GO OUT OX EXCURSIONS

731

732

AMERICAN COOKERY

tance their competitors who have had
their college expenses paid for them.
To-day the girl who earns her way
through, acquires a certain dignity and
superiority in the eyes of her classmates
of which she herself is, usually, entirely
unaware.

Then, too, for those who are making
definite plans for a career, summer work
gives them a splendid chance to "try
their wings." For those who have not
yet decided just what they do wish to
prepare for, it is an opportunity to get
into some business for purposes of ob-
servation. Although her work may be
very detailed and almost mechanical, yet
an observant girl can quickly analyze
the situation and decide whether or not
she is suited for that particular branch of
industry.

Insurance offices, banks, department
stores, etc., need clerks during the sum-
mer months to take the places of those
on vacation. The work is simple and
not too trying, very often leading to

something better when school days are

over.

Colleges themselves require even a
larger force in the summer than in winter;
assistants in the registrar's office, typing,
getting out report cards, library work,
and if there is a summer school, several
extra workers are needed.

Text-book companies are rushed all
through the summer getting out school
books, so in their offices and proof-
reading departments a number of college
girls are frequently employed.

Most college girls like to combine work
and vacation and for them hundreds of
opportunities in special summer work are
waiting. While traveling in the White
Mountains last summer I met an ath-
letic young girl from one of the colleges
near Boston. She has always been fond
of out-door sports and was captain of
her college basket-ball team. With her
father and brother she had often tramped
through the woods and climbed the
mountains of the district around their

THESE OILSKINS ALLOW WALKS THROUGH THE WOODS

COLLEGE GIRLS' VACATION WORK

733

ARTS AXD CRAFTS ARE TAUGHT DURING VACATION

summer home until she grew to know the
district thoroughly. Visitors at a hotel
near her cottage were always walking
aimlessly about the country and it sud-
denly occurred to her that there was her
chance to use her knowledge of the
country to good advantage. The hotel
proprietor was delighted at the prospect
of any novel scheme to please his guests
and gladly co-operated with her plans.
She was no ordinary guide, but took a
decided interest in planning those ex-
peditions which were, really, as much a
source of pleasure to her as to the
travelers. She never allowed the parties
to be so large as to be unmanageable and
the verv fact that numbers were limited
served to arouse greater interest, for
who will fail to become curious about any
scheme where there is a possible sugges-
tion of exclusiveness? This summer she
is planning to take an assistant with her,
for those walks have become quite
famous. There must be many girls
with similar knowledge who simply have

never thought of the chance of putting
it to practical advantage.

For those who have no unusual ac-
complishment, but who desire to go away
from the city in summer, it is well to con-
sider the plan that will give the largest
and surest returns. I should always
advise such a girl to take some "resident
work" where she will be sure of her room
and board; then she may consider the
earnings as clear profit and thus save a
good deal of planning. Nowadays, prac-
tically every summer and seashore resort
is all bought up for the season several
months ahead and it is difficult to get
accommodations later. This sort of work,
of course, includes the usual "jobs" of
waiting on table, running tea-rooms,
clerical, in fact any sort of hotel or tea-
room work. To get the best places the
wise girl will begin long before "cram-
ming for finals" -is upon her to find such
a place, for the more exclusive hotels and
tea-rooms do not wait until the last
minute to find their workers, and, also,

734

AMERICAN COOKERY

there is not such a rush of applicants in
the early months. If a girl decides to
do this sort of work, she must be sure
that she has the strength to carry it
through, because there is nothing so
disastrous as to work on one's nerve all
summer, and then try to concentrate on
brain work again in the fall — ■ too many
have fallen victims to this bad calcula-
tion not to consider it seriously.

Wealthy people are glad to know girls
who can be trusted to take care of their
children, not as nurses, but as governess
or companion. This is a splendid chance
to get room and board with pleasant
surroundings and plenty of chance to
have healthy outdoor play with the little
ones. This work is especially suitable
for college girls, because it is often
necessary to combine tutoring with the
work.

College girls are in demand as counsel-
lors and leaders at summer camps, man-
aged by the Y. W. C. A. and similar
associations. Here the board and lodg-

ing is given and a moderate compensa-
tion, together with plenty of outdoor
life and good times. At college one
learns a great deal besides theories and at
these camps it is often the "trimmings"
that are in demand. Industrial con-
cerns are now taking up the plan of
having summer houses for their employees
and it is often deemed advisable to have
a college girl who can give her whole time
to planning pleasure trips, swimming,
athletics, and rainy-day socials — ■ in fact
to be the all-round leader — so that not
a day of the working girl's vacation need
be spoiled, because she was strange or
didn't know the country. In such work
as this the thorough, sensible, outdoor
type of girl is well suited.

For the girl who loves children and
can be happy in playing with them,
settlement houses in the city often re-
quire the services of young girls to take
the little folks on daily or weekly outings
to near-by parks or seashore resorts.
Playground work also has an increased

EVEN SOCIETY GIRLS DO NOT MIND WEEDING

COLLEGE GIRLS' VACATION WORK

735

A COMMUNITY PLAY

need of workers in this season than in the
winter. By doing this sort of work the
girl is doing a real community service.

Chautauqua Circuits demand a number
of trained people in any number of posi-
tions as teaching, clerical, lecturing,
recreational, kindergarten, social, etc.
Work of this type brings the girl in con-
tact with thousands of people and an
opportunity to see the country.

.Now that Community Pageants are
becoming increasingly popular, girls with
a Liberal Arts or Music training can al-
most create her own work.

There are hundreds of odd jobs at
hand that simply haven't been thought of,
because of their very obvious call. Isn't
it strange how we will puzzle our brains
and search and search for something
unusual when the very thing is right at
hand waiting to be done? One girl who
lived in the city earned enough pin money
to carry her through the winter by pack-
ing trunks for people who were going
away and hated, as most of us do, the
very thoughts of getting ready. They
were very glad to find somebody who
actually enjoyed the dreaded task and
were quite willing to pay a very fair sum
for the work, the price varying with the

size of the trunk and kind of things to be
packed.

There are very few people gifted with
the "straight eye" necessary for the
successful hanging of pictures. Many a
well-planned room is spoiled by the in-
ability of the housekeeper to hang the
pictures properly. If one is blessed with
this ability, why not capitalize it? Many
a young bride or exacting housewife
would be glad to find some one to assist
in the planning and decorating of her
home, especially in the picture hanging.
Such a small beginning might lead to far
more profitable things later on, if the
girl shows an aptitude for interior
decorating.

Farmerettes are no longer a crying
necessity, but their work during the war
has opened the way for others in this new
and highly beneficial work. Hard labor
and outdoor air may not at first seem
appealing, but the benefits, physically,
are more than recompense. It is very
difficult for small gardeners to get men
to work for part time, and many who are
trying to raise just enough for their own
use through the winter find it extremely
difficult to get the weeding and other odd
jobs done properly.

736

AMERICAN COOKERY

Several girls near here go out week-ends
during the spring to the country home of
a friend and help in the planting, then
in the summer continue their work for
about three or four days a week, earning
two dollars a day besides room and
board.

It would be almost impossible to at-
tempt to tabulate the varied odd jobs
college girls could find to do in the sum-
mer months that would be a boon to
others as well as a source of income to
themselves, if they will only use their
eyes and then go to it — determinedly.

The Pie at the End of the Rainbow

By Mabel S. Merrill

DR. CHARLES LEVERETT, sub-
siding into his place at the end of
the long, vacant dining-table,
looked very young to be the head of the
modern language department in a col-
lege — even so new a college as Kennis-
ton. Also he looked at this moment so
savage that the secretary from her desk
in the next room eyed him anxiously
from afar and then came out to join him.

"What's the matter, Charles?" she
asked. The secretary was Dr. Leverett's
sister — • which was why he was taking
his meals at the public dining-room of the
local Y. W. C. A.

"Matter?" he growled. "If you knew
the Goodspeeds, you'd know there was
plenty the matter. I never would have
come down to tackle this new job, if I'd
suspected what a trick they were going
to play me the very first thing. Why,
what's the matter with you, Edith?"

It was his turn to ask the question as
the secretary stiffened and glanced at a
seemingly inoffensive waitress who had
come to take the order. Miss Leverett
waited till the girl had gone, then her
wrath, too, burst out.

"Don't speak the name of Goodspeed
in this house, Charles Leverett! They
can't have served you any worse than
they have served me. What have they
done in your case? Do you mean about
the summer school?"

"No, of course, I knew about the sum-
mer school before I came. I agreed to
take charge of it, though it's lonesome

business with all the old members of the
faculty away. I was going to spend the
time getting acquainted with 'em, but
there's only a row of empty houses left.
What do you suppose the Goodspeeds did
the last minute?"

Edith gazed at him with a hopeless
expression. President and Mrs. Good-
speed were the joint heads of Kenniston
College — ■ for the lady was decidedly one
of the managing sort.

"Well, they've contrived to cripple me
in my regular work for no-knowing how
long," explained the professor of modern
languages. "Took the star teacher in
my department and shipped her off to a
better paid position in New York. I
hadn't had time to so much as get my eye
on her. She's a wonder, that girl.
I've been hearing of her for two years
back. A thorough scholar with a regular
genius for teaching. Now I shall have
to put up with any sort of hack they can
pick up for me in the fall when college
opens."

"But maybe they couldn't help her
going, if she got a better-paid position,"
suggested Edith.

"Yes, they could. She's their niece
and they could have persuaded her to stay
for the good of the college, if they'd had a
mind to. But look here, Ede. I don't
see what you can have to do with the
Goodspeeds. Thought you told me you
hardly knew them."

"So I don't, thank fortune! I have
only a bowing acquaintance with the

THE PIE AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW

737

lady and that was forced upon me. A
'Y' secretary can't help herself, always.
Well, you see it's this way: We've been
so desperately hard up for help in the
kitchen and dining-room that I tele-
phoned to Mrs. Goodspeed just before
she started west, to know if there were any
self-supporting college girls who would
like to come and work through the sum-
mer vacation. I took all kinds of pains
to explain that a girl who could cook
would be worth her weight in gold. Then
what did the woman do but send me her
own daughter — 'the stupid Vick Good-
speed,' I've heard she is called. Her
mother explained that she was inex-
perienced, but would give her services in
such a good cause, and we could teach
her. Of course, the woman's idea is that
it doesn't take brains to be a cook, —
any fool can do that! We couldn't refuse
the offer, of course; so we'll have the girl
running amuck in the dining-room and
kitchen all summer."

"Seems a light-hearted way of getting
rid of one's only daughter before going
off for a vacation," meditated Charles.

"Exactly! That's just why they did
it. The girl's impossible, they tell me.
She has failed at everything and they're
mortified to death about her. Take a
good look — ■ here she comes with your
order."

The seemingly inoffensive waitress
brought the tray and deposited each
separate dish with exaggerated care.
Yesterday she had grazed the door casing
and dropped her tray, as every new
waiter is supposed to do.

"I came down on her for carelessness
just as if she'd been paid help like the
rest of them," Miss Leverett explained
when the girl had gone. "I wanted to
let her know that a college president's
daughter gets no favors here. But she
didn't seem much impressed. Stupid
people are apt to be brazen and she can
make her face just as hard as a mask."

Dr. Leverett shrugged his shoulders.
"Don't be too high and mighty, Ede.
She's only a little thing and maybe she

didn't want to be farmed out as a waitress.
Only, being a chattel, she couldn't help
herself. Speaking of favors, she can't
have had many at home, either. If that
mask of hers should accidentally get some
kind of a light behind it, she would be
rather pretty, don't you think?"

For several days "the stupid Vick
Goodspeed" continued to wait on Dr.
Leverett with the care and precision of a
wooden dummy operated by wires. Then
she disappeared so suddenly that he asked
his sister how the girl had been made
away with.

"Why, she's still in the kitchen, but
she unexpectedly developed a sensible
streak. She saw that we were having a
perfectly awful time to get the cooking
done. The pastry cook's latest assistant
goes off every third day and we have to
get another before dinner, if we can. So
Vick started in to help where her help
was most needed. She said she knew a
little bit about cooking and could learn
more. So she goes over every single
evening for private lessons at the cooking-
school at Buford. Daytimes she ex-
periments in the kitchen, and already
she is able to help. In fact, she seems to
take to it like a duck to water. I don't
understand it. It's always been my
theory that no stupid person could be a
good cook, and I know I'm right."

"Well, then, it follows that the girl
isn't as stupid as she has been made out.
Her respected parents are a couple of
intellectuals swells — heavy swells that
go over everything in sight like a steam
roller. That's a mixed metaphor, but
you see the point. They think nobody
amounts to anything unless he or she is a
prodigy of scholarship. Likely as not
they tried to make the girl into the
greatest mathematician of the age or
something of that sort, and pronounced
her a hopeless case when they couldn't
do it."

"Other people have called her stupid,"
rejoined Edith. "It seems to be the
unanimous opinion that she is terriblv
dull."

738

AMERICAN COOKERY

"Opinion can be pretty badly mistaken
about a young person," insisted Dr.
Leverett. "I tell you I saw signs of a
spark or two behind that mask of hers
the very first day."

"Maybe the two pieces of pie you ate
for your dinner to-day have had a soften-
ing effect on your judgment," suggested
Edith. "Only, I don't know as I told
you that Vick made it."

Dr. Leverett's hours of work at the
summer school, which was being held on
the deserted campus, were such that he
was generally the last one in the dining-
room. One day his orders brought such
meager results that he decided a famine
must have descended on the house. He
was about to rise and depart when Vick
came tripping in from the kitchen with
something on a tray.

"They've eaten us out of house and
home," she announced. "I heard the
Wolf growling on the back doorstep when
I served the dessert. All the same, I
was determined you should have this,
because you can't come in time to get
your share of things."

"What is it?" inquired the young man,
regarding with favor the little round dish
she had set before him.

"It's a kind of glorified custard pie.
I think custard-making appeals to my
imagination more than cake-making,
it's so full of possibilities. This is only
natural custard Burbanked, so to speak.
Just a few little changes and it seems a
new dish altogether. It went like ice-
cream. I shall have to make lots more
next time."

Dr. Leverett sampled the custard
thoughtfully. "It's great," he pro-
nounced. "Look here, are you having a
good time with this volunteer work in the
kitchen? It's all right for me to ask,
isn't it, seeing that we both belong to the
college?"

"It's perfectly all right. And I'm
having the time of my life. If I'd ever
suspected what fun there was in cooking,
I'd have' gone in for it long ago, for all I
was worth. It's like blundering into a

land of romance and adventure that I
didn't know existed. You've worked in
a laboratory, Dr. Leverett?"

"More or less, in my college days," he
assented.

"Well then, you know the fascination of
combining things and seeing what they
will do. Cooking is like that, only it's
clean, sweet material you work with in-
stead of horrid smelly things that turn
weird colors and blow you up, if you don't
look out. It's the same kind of adven-
ture you get. I always understood the
lure of chemistry, though I never liked
laboratory work on account of the smells
and the blowings-up. But in cooking
you can have all the fun without any of
the disagreeables."

Charles finished his custard and went
to find his sister.

"Your girl Vick," he told the secre-
tary, "is about as dull as an electric
sparkler. You're not sorry now that
you accepted the loan of her from her
respected parents?"

"Sorry! O Charles, she's a living
wonder! She is helping us through what
promised to be the hardest summer since
we opened a public dining-room. It
isn't only her help with the cooking,
though she is getting along fine with
that, and the principal of the cooking-
school says she never had such a bright
pupil before in all her experience. Be-
sides that, she seems to know exactly
what to do in an emergency and the
kitchen squad follow her as if she were
their general instead of only a volunteer
helper. Somehow there is harmony in
the kitchen where there used to be
squabbling and factions. It's all Vick's
good-nature and a kind of magnetism she
has — I suppose you haven't noticed it,
but she is magnetic. I take back most of
what I said about the Goodspeeds,
though I surmise they didn't know what
a favor they were doing us when they
sent us that girl. Stupid, indeed! Didn't
I tell you she could never have learned to
cook if she'd been stupid?"

It had soon become the custom for

THE PIE AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW

739

Vick to appear in the empty dining-room
with some special dish she had saved for
Dr. Leverett. The dignified secretary
smiled to herself as she saw how her
brother contrived to detain the girl
while he consumed her offering. They
soon became such good friends that Vick
was ready to tell him all her "adven-
tures" at the cooking-school. It was all
she talked of, in fact. She seemed to
have utterly forgotten her past and to
have let slip all thought for the future in
this fascinating new world she had
"blundered into."

"I don't believe I'll ever accomplish
anything again that will seem so splendid
to me as inventing this dish," she said
once as she set before him what she called
a glorified custard pie. "I really did
invent it myself, that is, I got it by vary-
ing the rule according to my own ideas.
It was quite thrilling when all the girls
came to taste and admire and exclaim.
I felt like Columbus and all the great
brotherhood of discoverers. . Oh, I'll
never forget this summer, anyway. It's
as if I'd been to the end of the rainbow
and found a pie instead of a pot of gold.
There, Dr. Leverett, perhaps you can't
understand anything that sounds so
kiddish."

"I'm beginning to understand that
you're a poet," he assured her. "You'd
find the gold at the end of the rainbow in
some form, whatever you were doing.
I mean you'd put the same fire of en-
thusiasm into everything you undertook,
and, of course, you'd discover wonderful
new worlds wherever you looked. But
for heaven's sake," he added quickly,
"don't look anywhere else yet awhile."

The summer vacation was nearing its
end when Vick, pink-cheeked and starry-
eyed, came into the dining-room one
evening with no pie to account for her
appearance there.

"I just slipped in to tell you, seeing
it's the last night I'll be here in the
house," she began breathlessly. "They
want me to come to the cooking-school as
pupil-teacher and stay there! Think of

the honor of being wanted for a place
like that when I'm only a beginner. I
did feel so set up, I had to come and tell
you. Oh, some people pretend they
don't care about honors, but I haven't
had enough in my life to be so high and
calm about it."

"No, I suppose you haven't," agreed
Charles absently, remembering the
"steam roller" parents. "I suppose you
want me to congratulate you," he
added; "well, then I will and get it over,
but I don't think it's very complimentary
of you to be so plainly glad to get rid of
our company."

"Whose company? Oh, I'm not going
to get rid of your company — ■ that's
the worst of it. There, I only mean that
I can't accept the offer, much as I'd like
to. It's just one of those little shining
gates of opportunity that open and let
you look into a pleasant flowery place
where you are never to be allowed to live.
Don't you wish sometimes that we could
have three or four lives at once, all
different?"

Charles did not go into this purely
abstract question. "You can't accept?"
he repeated. "I'm mighty glad of it, but
why can't you?"

Vick stared at him and her eyes began
to dance. "Don't you know?" she de-
manded. " Haven't you, honestly, known
who I was all this time?"

"Of course, I have. You're President
Goodspeed's daughter" —

"No, no, I'm his niece. Oh, now I
see. You thought it was I that went
to New York?"

"Certainly I did — that is, I thought
it was Miss Victorelle Goodspeed who
had 'resigned her position in the modern
language department to accept a re-
munerative post in New York.' That's
what the paper said; I read it as I came
down here on the train."

"Yes, so I did resign. A distant
relative, who is fearfully rich, offered what
seemed to us an immense salary if I'd
come as companion, and Uncle and Aunt
thought I'd better go. But when I

740

AMERICAN COOKERY

found how my poor cousin felt about
being left here alone all summer I per-
suaded them to let her go and try it and
I came here. . I didn't tell Miss Leverett
the difference. She didn't know either
of us and wouldn't have cared; she only
asked for a girl; she didn't say what girl."

"And is the other Miss Goodspeed
planning to stay in New York?" asked
Dr. Leverett.

"Oh yes, Vick has made good and I'm
so glad. You see she's Vick too. We're
the same age and they named one of us
Victorine and the other Victorelle. Even
at this late day I can't quite bring myself
to forgive them."

"Then you're going to be my assistant
this year, after all?" demanded the
professor.

"Why, I haven't asked them to take

me back, but I guess they will. Poor
little Kenniston is as hard up for teachers
as she is for everything else. It's that
way, of course, when a college is new.
I'm going to stand by if she wants me."

"But you're not really sorry to stay?"
persisted Charles jealously.

"Of course, I'm not. I love teaching
and I've always been happy at Kennis-
ton. Only I couldn't help wanting to
go in at that little shiny new gate."

"There are gates and gates," pro-
claimed Dr. Leverett. "The woods are
full of 'em, as you might say. You'll
have a chance to open plenty of new
ones before you get through. Well,
look here, Miss Vick, if it's your last
night in this house, can't you spare a
fellow a piece of that pie you found at the
end of the rainbow?"

One Misty, Moisty Morning

By Ruth Fargo

THAT is just what it was — one
misty, moisty morning out in
Oregon. Young Mrs. Dorothea
Dent scowled as she tightened a sink
faucet that would drip, drip, drip in spite
of her utmost effort — Jerry had gone
and forgotten to fix it! — and shut the
kitchen-dining-room door with a vicious
little slam. She did not dare slam too
hard or the pretty blue china might come
quivering down from the plate rail, and
that particular blue china had been a
wedding present.

But she went straight through the
house and out to the front porch, winding
a filmy scarf around her head as she went,
down the steps, across the street, and
into Aunt Anna's house, with just a little
warning knock on the front door —
Aunt Anna who was just a neighbor, and
"Aunt Anna" to everybody. Some
people are like that. Aunt Anna was.

"Well, do say!" exclaimed Uncle
Jonas Atwood who was toasting his toes
at the cheery grate, "if here isn't Mis'

Dent, shivering like a little lost kitten."

"Come up to the fire, honey; pull up
the little oak rocker. Jonas an' me
are just a-warming ourselves up a mite
'fore dinner-getting time," said Aunt
Anna. " It is sort o' chilly this morning."

"Oh, a body don't mind if they're
busy about," argued Uncle Jonas. "I
wa'n't cold. I just come in to see if
Anna knew where I put the sack needle
last time I used it." Jonas Atwood
chuckled to himself. "I sort of dropped
down here by the fire while she was
a-thinking where'bouts that needle could
be."

"If I was Aunt Anna, I'd make you re-
member where you put your own things,"
scolded Dorothea with a smile that con-
tradicted her words.

" Sho ! " Uncle Jonas leaned comfortably
back in his chair. "Now that treatment
might do fine for Jerry, but for an old
man like me — Sho! You wouldn't be
after advising Anna — "

"Pa, do hush up your nonsense,"

ONE MISTY, MOISTY MORNING

741

sputtered Aunt Anna. "And you might
go look 'n the medicine chest. Seems
to me I did see that sack needle in there
some spell ago. If it ain't there, why — "

Aunt Anna's voice trailed off as her
spouse departed to inspect the suggested
locality, and she turned to her little
neighbor from across the way.

"Now what is't?" she asked. "You
look like 'twas something."

"It is," wailed Dorothea. "I guess
we've all got troubles of our own. . . .
Mine? . . . Oh, I just naturally hate
to keep house this morning. I do. So
there!"

The young neighbor flung her hands
out toward the fire with a little gesture
of ultimatum. There was a new scratch
across one forefinger that might have got
there in goodness-knows a dozen different

home, or a more appreciative husband,
or better neighbors, or — or — any-
thing" emphatically. "It must be

me — what is the matter

me:

blazed the young girl-wife. "It's the
cooking that gets me. Because — be-
cause — ■ it comes so often. Three meals
a day! Think of it! What do we have
to eat so often for?" crossly. "Now if
I had to cook one perfectly beautiful meal
just once a day — ■ once a day — once
a day," dreamily. "I know I should
succeed famously. But three times —
that's the thirdly. I've already told you
my firstly and secondly, and there's just
the thirdly and no more. Too many
meals tucked into too few waking hours.
I don't know how to manage. Oh — of
course it is me."

There was a little break in the girlish
ways, and a perfectly fresh burn on top of voice that went straight to the heart of

one slim white thumb.

"In the first place, I've got to get
dinner. And I don't know anything new
to cook. I've cooked the same things
over and over and over and over till I'm
nearly distracted. I hate 'em. I'd
think Jerry would, too. But he don't
seem to mind a bit," with a little exas-
perated laugh. "Maybe because he
don't have to do the cooking.

"But I mind — oh, I mind like —
'like tunket.' as Uncle Jonas says.
I'm just clear sick of my own cooking.
I didn't know anybody could get so
eternally sick of things they cooked them-

the older woman.

"There, there, there," she crooned.
"Don't worry. You'll come out all
right. There's a good lot of things for
a body to learn 'bout cooking, and keeping
house. I feel like I ain't got 'em all
learned yet. And you've just started.
Just started — "

"And balking at the first hill to
climb — " There were tears very near
to the blue eyes.

"All you need is to get your breath
once. You'll manage the hills and the
hollows," promised Aunt Anna, with
comforting assurance. "But for this

selves for themselves. Why — why, I one time you do just as I tell you. Go

feel like I'd been eating my own cooking home and write a little note for Jerry,

for ages — aeons — oh, so long I don't and pin it where he is sure to see it, and

remember when I didn't," disgustedly, then come back here for dinner. You

Aunt Anna chuckled, a little sympa- and Jerry both. You're to tell him that

thetic chuckle. in the note. . . . Oh, honey," added

"You been a-keeping house, you'n Aunt Anna at the protest of her young

Jerry, since a year ago last June," she neighbor, "this ain't any comp'ny dinner,

observed, "my memory playing me no You're just dropping in like home folks,

tricks." And taking pot-luck with two old folks

"And you — you,'" admitted Doro- who'll be tickled to death to have you

thea contritely, "have kept house thirty come. . . . Why, of course you'll come.

years, or so. How do you do it — and
not go absolutely distracted? I'm sure

. . . No, I don't consider you hinted
a-tall, child; I'm just telling you to come

I shall. And no girl ever had a dearer over here and stop cooking for a day.

742

AMERICAN COOKERY

To-night you just get corn-meal mush
with milk. And nothing else! Don't
bother to fix up a regular menu. . . .
And by to-morrow you'll feel as fine as
silk, and as good as new," finished Aunt
Anna. "All you need, just now, is a day
off. And something a little different."

Just as the slip-slap of Dorothea's
flying feet ceased echoing across the hall
Jonas Atwood poked his head in from the
kitchen.

"I found that sack needle. It was in
the medicine chest," he called, "though
how it got there beats me. I vum, it do."

"Easy. You put it there," scorned his
wife. And then: "If I'd really 'a' known
we'd have extra for dinner I wouldn't 'a'
planned a carrot dinner, not exactly
planned one. I guess it kind a happened
so, anyway. We ain't exactly s'posed
to have carrots three ways to oncet,"
went on Aunt Anna musingly, "but I
guess it won't really hurt us, not so's a
body'd notice it. Anyway — " little
laughing wrinkles trekked up to the cor-
ners of her eyes — "it will be different.
And that's what I told Dorothea she
needed."

"Carrots?" questioned Uncle Jonas;
"going to have carrots for dinner? I
thought I smelled something extra good."

"Carrots cooked in a casserole with
that bit of brisket you brought home last
night," assented Aunt Anna. "With an
onion and *a sprig o' parsley to season.
And broth enough for a good gravy.
We wa'n't going to have anything much
else, 'cept boiled potatoes — " doubt-
fully. "And it's all most done, too.
I won't have time to fix up much extra."

"Who wants anything extra?" scoffed
Aunt Anna's satisfied husband. "That
dinner sounds good to me — I'll bet my
old hat it'll sound good to Jerry Dent,
too. Good enough dinner for a king,"
added Uncle Jonas, starting off with his
sack needle and trailing a long thread of
twine behind. That it caught in the
shut door and broke bothered him not at
all. Aunt Anna absently picked up the
ends and put them in the stove.

A few minutes after when Dorothea
Dent rushed in, all smiles and vivacious
chatter and youthful charm — the dol-
drums absolutely vanquished for the
day — the older woman had the table
already set, set for four. It seemed
very white and sparkling with clean
linen and glass, and carried an air of
simple, old-fashioned hospitality.

"Can't I help some?" urged Dorothea.

"Uh-huh," admitted Aunt Anna.
"Put a curly lettuce leaf on each of those
little salad plates." Aunt Anna was
grating up raw carrot.

"Urn — oh, but that looks good," lilted
the girl, her head tilted to one side like an
inquisitive sparrow. "What is it for?"

"Salad," said Aunt Anna. "Carrot
salad. Put a big spoonful on each lettuce
leaf. Then scatter a teaspoonful of
these chopped nuts over it, and top with
a good bit of this boiled dressing."

"How pretty!" exclaimed the younger
matron. "And how easy. Why — I've
carrots in my back-yard garden, but I
never made a carrot salad." »

"There's time enough yet — if Jerry just
likes it," suggested the motherly hostess.

"Jerry'll like it," said Jerry's wife.
"He likes carrots — he'll pull one up out
of the row and eat it raw. . . . And he
likes salad." ,

"Lots of men don't. Jonas had to
learn," sagely.

"They all ought to learn, the men, if
they don't — " laughed the young wife.
And then: "This boiled dressing isn't
like mine. Do you happen to remember
what you put in it, Aunt Anna? With-
out looking it up?"

"I guess I do," affirmed the older
woman. "Many times as I've made it.
It goes like this:

"One beaten egg, one tablespoonful
cornstarch, dissolved in a little cold water,
one level teaspoonful dry mustard, two
teaspoonfuls salt, sprinkle cayenne pep-
per, one cup milk, one-half cup mild
cider vinegar, two tablespoonfuls butter.
That is all there is to it," affirmed Aunt
Anna. "Mix it up well with an egg

THE EMPTY HOUSE

743

beater and cook till thick. If you set
it right on the stove, you need to stir all
the time, but you can use a double boiler,
if you want to. It is real nice, and it will
keep a long spell, specially cool days.
. . . No, I don't put in a bit of sugar.
Some do. I don't. We like it better
without, Jonas'n me Now din-
ner's ready. And there comes Jerry.
He's found your note all right. . . .
Yes, I'd take it kind, if you would go out
and holler up Jonas. Why a man wants
to be late to a meal beats me. But
Jonas alius is, specially when he ain't
much to do but putter about. Seems
like he might be on time them times of
all times, but he ain't. Men have got
queer streaks, the best on 'em, if I do say

It was a good meal, if it was a " carrot
dinner," and it was well on its way, and
genuinely enjoyed by everybody, when
somebody said: "Please pass the orange
marmalade. It is so good I must have a
second helping."

Aunt Anna laughed.

"Orange marmalade — made out of

carrots," she said.

Yes, it

is.

Easiest thing on earth. And it goes like
this:

"One cup cooked carrots, chopped fine,
one lemon, juice and grated rind, one cup
sugar.

"Yes, that's all—" to Mrs. Dent's
astonished questions. She had borrowed
an empty envelope from Jerry's pocket
and was hastily writing down the recipe.
"Yes, that's all," again affirmed her
elderly neighbor. "You can add nuts, if
you want to. . . . Oh, just mix to-
gether and cook slow on the back of the
stove for half an hour. Don't cook too
long or it will grow stiff and hard. But
you can tell by the looks — "

"And the taste," grinned Jerry. "Make
some, honey; it's awfully good. What
say? I'll scrape the carrots for you to-
night." . . .

And after they were gone, and the
dishes done, Uncle Jonas Atwood was
heard to remark:

"I guess they liked your carrot dinner,
Anna. They et as if they did." And
then: "I reckoned she felt some at outs,
when she first come over — 'cause 'twas
such a misty, moisty morning, I s'pose.
Wimmen is like that."

And Aunt Anna never said anything to
the contrary. If she thought anything,
it is not recorded.

The Empty House

Lo! the deserted house where erstwhile throve

A little family with its round of joys;
And now its walls ring empty as I move;
Nor is there other noise.

And yet its rooms commodious abound

Ready for shelter, comfort and good cheer,
With lovely scenes and sylvan nooks around —
Why dwelleth no one here?

First Love went out: that tells the story best,

Love in those hearts that first a home create;
Now silence and strange echoes tell the rest —
0 house so desolate!

— Benjamin R. Bulkeley.

Utilizing Leftovers

By Mary Barron Washburn

"When good King Arthur ruled the land,

He was a goodly king;
He stole three pecks of barley meal

To make a bag pudding.

"A bag pudding the queen did make

And stuffed it full of plums,
And in it put great lumps of fat

As big as my two thumbs.

"The king and queen did eat thereof,

And noblemen beside,
And what they could not eat that night,

The queen next morning fried."

THUS early in history did the prob-
lem of the leftover present itself,
and thus are we in our earliest
contacts with literature, while still in the
nursery, brought to consider the applica-
tion of thrift and resourcefulness to the
solution of this problem.

Serious minded folk have called in
question the ethical value of this one of
the Arthurian legends, have held that the
story lacks moral clarity and that the
infant mind should not be left to infer
that stealing is heroic or praiseworthy.

But however harmful King Arthur's
example, in this instance, may be deemed,
no one, I believe, has ever found the
queen's conduct other than admirable.
The only possible criticism might come
from the opponents of fried foods, but
even to them it is scarcely necessary to
point out that, if the remains of the pud-
ding were not sauted, but subjected to
deep frying (first being dipped in beaten
egg and then in sifted bread crumbs)
and properly drained, the result would be
entirely satisfactory from the standpoint
of hygiene and dietetics. Neither is it
likely that aesthetics were ignored by
this excellent lady, and the dish when
presented the next morning to her
strenuous consort was doubtless garnished
with water cress, or possibly with parsley,
if the royal abode was far from running
streams.

Surely, surely, as Mrs. Proudie would
have said, Mrs. Hoover herself could not
have done better, and the story as a
whole is an illustration from an earlier
type of literature of what Ruskin called
attention to in the dramas of Shake-
speare, that the catastrophe is always
caused by the folly or fault of a man; its
redemption by the wisdom and virtue of a
woman.

What to do with leftovers is a perennial
question. From the days when our
attendant nurses rinse and scald and
sterilize our rubber-nippled bottles, lest
some leftover drop of lacteal fluid poison
our next meal, on up through the games
where somebody has to be It; through
addition with its "put down two and
carry one," short division, long division,
common fractions and decimals; through
the parties to which we are not invited,
or, invited, serve as wall flowers; through
the emotional triangles of fiction or fact,
which, when resolved, give two to live
happy ever after, and one left out and
left over; on up to the time when the
heirs and the lawyers wrangle over our
estates, life is ever a matter of leftovers.
As Carlyle says, whatever solution of it
you attempt, there is ever a cursed
fractional remainder. The problems of
the kitchen and the pantry are but
epitomes of the one problem of life, What
shall we do with our leftovers? Shall
it be hash or croquettes? Soup or salad?
Or shall we weakly give up and furnish the
garbage pail?

There are two kinds of leftovers, the
designed and the fortuitous. When we
providently boil twice the required num-
ber of potatoes, planning salad for to-
morrow's lunch; when we thriftily let
the same heat bake two pots of beans
instead of one, knowing that we can
warm up the second one later in the week;

744

AN HERB-BORDER, CULINARY AND .MEDICINAL

745

when we "eat what we can and what we
can't eat we can," we are providing for
future leftovers.

Milton, prompted to "leave something
so written to after times as they should
not willingly let it die"; the statesman
legislating for "ourselves and our pos-
terity"; David, gathering together the
material for the "house exceeding mag-
nifical" that his son was to build, were
all doing the same thing.

The leftovers of this sort are the easier
to deal with, yet they have their per-
plexities. To accept, to preserve, to
store, to use, to change, to adjust, to
supplement, to discard, to amend, —
which shall we do and how? For the
leftover is a leftover. The warmed over
beans will not be as good as when they
came steaming hot and fragrant from
the oven on Saturday night, and no
process of canning has ever yet preserved
the delicate aroma of the just ripe fruit,
the tender crispness of the freshly
gathered vegetable. And where shall
we find closet space and shelf room, and
how build our meal around our salad
instead of having the salad as a piquant
adjunct? And although our library
shelves are crowded with books, until we
groan in spirit at the thought of dusting
them, no poet was ever able to put in
words the vision that he saw, and no
statesman ever framed a law that should
not some day hinder progress, and not
even Solomon, the wisest of men, could
either build the temple that was in
David's heart as he prepared the cedar

and the iron, the gold and the glistering
stones, nor that which he himself might
have built, had he had a free hand from
the beginning.

But the undesigned and unexpected
leftovers are the hardest to dispose of.
They are the results of blunders and mis-
calculations, of ignorance and careless-
ness, of disappointments and defeats,
and, like the grass and the herbs and the
winged fowls of creation, they tend to
bring forth after their kind. Like the
poor, they are always with us. They are
the uncivilized barbarians that perpetu-
ally harry our borders, but the art of life
consists in their subjugation and paci-
fication.

She is a mere tyro at housekeeping who
can achieve results only with fresh and
abundant material, all necessary ap-
pliances, and no interruptions. The
artist is she who can take life as it is and
by taste and judgment and deftness can
so serve yesterday's scraps that today
shall go on its way rejoicing. The pupil
can play the melody on a perfect instru-
ment, but under the master's touch, the
old harpsichord will give out the heaven-
liest of music. The king's son won the
battle with the broken sword that the
craven had flung away. The great
generals have been those who knew how
to change defeat into victory, the great
men those who mastered weakness and
turned it into strength.

The secret of noble living is with those
who have learned to accept and utilize
leftovers.

An Herb-Border, Culinary and Medicinal

By F. M. Christianson

IHAT every kitchen-garden hasn't
an herb-row is to be regretted.
The reason is that we in this
country do hot appreciate the value and
uses of pot-herbs as the housewives of
the Old Land do. Every pantry should

have an herb-corner, whence could be
had things new and old for warmed-over
meat dishes.

Gardeners who grow herbs for the trade
realize a handsome profit on each wisp
they sell, for a little of herbs go a long way.

746

AMERICAN COOKERY

But herbs bought in the green state are
often wilted and dirty and sometimes
when most needed cannot be had, so the
way to have them is to plant them in
your garden.

When to Sow the Seed

Sow herb seed in shallow drills in the
spring and cover lightly with fine soil
pressed firm about the tiny seeds. When
plants are two or three inches high, thin
well to give the young plants all the
light, sunshine and air possible, and
cultivate often. There is so little labor
attending the growing of pot-herbs that
any one can do it and whoever under-
takes it will be repaid by having the
wherewithal to make many appetizing
dishes, to say nothing of having flavors
for soups, sauces and cakes, enough to
perplex an epicure.

Here are a few culinary and medicinal
herbs from which to choose those that
seem to meet your individual wants.

Thyme — The leaves may be used as a
garnish and, in this connection, nothing
can be daintier. It is used, too, to
season meats and is often put into
sausage and "dressing" and worked into
croquettes. To flavor sauces for meat
and fish it is esteemed.

Parsley — The moss-leaved variety is
the only one we use. The leaves have a
fine flavor and are used chiefly in soups,
and creamed potatoes, and as a garnish.
A few plants lifted from the garden on the
approach of winter and planted in a box
and set in a sunny window will supply a
family throughout the winter.

Sage — The only kind we grow is
Holt's Mammoth. It has, as its name
suggests, very large leaves borne well up
off the soil, which helps to keep them
clean. The leaves are of fine flavor and
much sought after for seasoning sausage,
dressing, tea, etc.

Dill — The seeds are used in pickling
and are aromatic, warm and pungent.

Caraway — The leaves and young
sprouts may be eaten and the seeds

have been popular for many generations
to flavor bread, cake, pastry, cheese,
sauces, etc. Oh, the caraway cookies of
my childhood!

Rosemary — The leaves are for season-
ing and its pretty blue flowers yield a
volatile oil much sought after by per-
fumers.

Lavender — ■ Its flowers are so sweet and
fragrant. Wisps of the plant are dried
and then placed in the "Kists of our
grandmothers," to give that dainty,
elusive odor to fine linen.

Rue — Is a medicinal plant of stimu-
lating powers.

If in addition to the herb garden a
spot be found for a clump each of Chives
and Garlic, everything is complete: for
with these on hand the real cook can
fashion almost anything. And now a
parting word! Have the dish you serve
the food in large enough to have a right
proportion between the edge of dish and
food. It is a good rule to follow that
the food and garnish shall leave at least
a third of the dish bare.

Then always use the right- garnish,
parsley with fish, cress with meats and
mint with lamb, etc.

Always provide garnishes that can be
eaten. There is such a variety that there
is no excuse for using any others.

And after you have arranged your
garnish on the dish, if it doesn't please
you, take it away.

When to Cut Herbs

Herbs should be cut just as the first
flowers appear, for then the most oil is
in the leaf. Cut them in the morning, as
soon as the dew is off, and place well
spread out on a table in a clean, cool,
shady place to cure.

When the leaves are so dry that they
crumble, rub up between the hands and
discard all stems and hard parts and
let dry a little longer, for the tiniest bit of
moisture will ruin the herbs. Then pack
away in air-tight, glass containers and
keep the containers in a dry, cool place.

Breakfasts

By Mary D. Chambers

THE breakfast is the most import-
ant meal of the day, because it
is the first thing that happens
every morning, and it thus strikes the
note, so to speak, of the day's harmony.

Breakfast varies more than any other
meal in the number and kind of dishes
served — from the cup of coffee and single
small roll brought to your bedroom in
some of the European countries, to the
hotel breakfast of the United States,
which consists of nearly as many dishes
as a course dinner. But whatever the
breakfast, it should be remembered that
it is the opening adventure of the morn-
ing, and no pains should be spared to
make it an agreeable one. If nothing
more is desired than toast and coffee,
the standard for these two should be
nothing short of excellence. Indeed, the
fewer the dishes served for breakfast, the
greater the perfection called for in these
few; since where there is much variety,
if one dish is poor, it can be discarded for
another that is good.

A survey of some typical kinds of
breakfasts will be found in the following
pages.

The Light Breakfast

Delicate women, aged persons, semi-
invalids, and other persons in apparent
good health, often suffer from a com-
plete lack of appetite in the morning, and
will eat only an apology for breakfast.
Such persons seldom come to their own
in vitality until later in the day, and a
very light breakfast is all they are able
to digest. For them the meal should be
regarded as a mere "pick-me-up," a
mild stimulant to help them over the
difficult hours of the morning.

Another class of persons, who find a
light breakfast agrees best with them, are
brain-workers, who go to their desks or
to their mental activities immediatelv

after the meal, without the interval of a
walk or ride to business, and set their
brains to work at the same time that the
digestive organs are busy dealing with the
just-eaten food. In this case the body
may be said to be trying to serve two
masters, and the work of either one will
surely be slighted. Here again, the light
meal, refreshing and stimulating, will be
the best compromise, and the tax will
not be too severe on either brain or
digestion.

Menus for Light Breakfasts

Orange Juice

Thin Sliced Buttered Toast

Coffee

^ II
Grapes
Vienna Rolls
Coffee

Other light breakfasts may consist of
a cup of cafe au lait, and an oven-crisped
pilot cracker; or a small cup of chocolate
or cocoa with pulled bread; or tea, toast,
and orange marmalade; or even a glass
of warm malted milk and a zwieback may
be sufficient for the slight refreshment
needed by those who find the light break-
fast best adapted to them.

But remember, whatever beverage is
served, be sure it is as hot as can be
sipped, for hot fluids are stimulating to
heart and circulation. Where the need of
such a stimulant is acute the person will
be found beginning his meal at the
wrong end — ■ the coffee — and then work-
ing up to the more substantial dish, if,
indeed, he does not reject everything
except the coffee.

The Moderate Breakfast

The addition to the light breakfast of a
cereal, with milk or cream; a substantial
dish, such as eggs, fish, or meat, with or
without potatoes.; and a "frill" in the

747

748

AMERICAN COOKERY

shape of jam or marmalade, will round
out the light breakfast to the moderate
breakfast, which is the one most com-
monly served in the home. It affords
scope for individual preference, and
according to his choice any one at the
table may elect the dishes to make either
a light or a moderate breakfast, or one
between the two.

Menus for Moderate Breakfasts

Stewed Prunes with Apple Sauce

Wheatena, Cream and Sugar

Broiled Whitefish Baked Potato

Graham Toast

Coffee Cocoa

Grapefruit

Shredded Wheat, Hot Milk

Lamb Chops Creamed Potatoes

Muffins Marmalade

Coffee Cocoa

Egg dishes, such as soft-cooked,
poached, scrambled, omelets of various
kinds, etc., are much in favor for break-
fast. Eggs are easily and quickly pre-
pared, and can be served in so many
ways that they may be eaten for most
mornings of the week without tiring of
them. Some persons eat a soft-cooked
egg for breakfast from one end of the year
to the other, without desiring a change.
Potatoes are seldom served, when eggs
form the main dish.

Hashes, made from corned beef, roast
beef, or fish, are the form of warmed-over
most likely to be made use of for break-
fast; but there is no reason why other
dishes from left-overs should not some-
times be served.

Creamed meats on toast, delicate
sausages, light fishballs, breakfast bacon,
either by itself, or served in small quan-
tity, as a relish with eggs or other dishes,
all are foods well suited to the moderate
breakfast.

The Hearty Breakfast

The hearty breakfast is suited to hearty
workers, especially to those who work in
the open, like farmers, gardeners, sports-
men and campers, the crews of lumber
camps, or growing boys at the hungry age.

It sometimes differs from the moderate
breakfast only quantitatively, consisting
of much the same food, served in very
much larger portions. But more often
the food is of a kind best adapted to
vigorous digestions, and is guaranteed to
"stay by" the breakfaster, so that he
shall not be hungry until time for the
next meal.

At the hearty breakfast two kinds of
meat are often served- in combination,
like chops and kidneys, liver and bacon,
ham and eggs, corned beef hash with
poached egg, pork and beans, etc. Or
the two kinds may be served in separate
courses, such as fried fish, or tripe and
onions to begin with, and a thick broiled
beefsteak later in the meal. Potatoes,
baked or fried, are nearly always present,
or fried mush or scrapple; also two or
more kinds of hot bread; and the feast is
wound up with a handful of fresh-fried
crullers, or a heaping plate of hot pan-
cakes with syrup, and another large cup
of coffee with cream. Coffee, all through
the meal, is poured unstintedly, and all
the dishes are served unstintedly. Fruit
is sometimes served at the hearty break-
fast; sometimes this is thought to be a
waste of time. Cereal with grated cheese,
or fried mush with molasses, or oatmeal
in a soup plate served with thick cream,
is acceptable; but the hungry-as-a-hound,
hearty breakfaster often likes to plunge
at once into the more substantial "eats"
of the substantial meal.

Enough has been said about this truly
hearty breakfast to show that for most of
us it is one to meet an exceptional condi-
tion, and is perhaps farther from the
normal type of breakfast than is the very
light one. Yet, rare as this hearty
breakfast is, most of us have, if not eaten
one, at least experienced the joy of the
looker-on in seeing one eaten; so that it is
well to know what the meal is, and when
it may be served with propriety.

The Formal Breakfast

This meal is suited to class reunions,
to the closing meeting of the year for

BREAKFAST

749

women's clubs, or to any other time, when
a company meal early in the day is called
for. It is appropriate to both sexes,
and, sometimes, if a distinguished visitor
to the town has been loaded up in ad-
vance with luncheon or dinner invitations,
the woman who, otherwise, might miss the
pleasure of entertaining the much-sought-
for guest will be able to secure .his com-
pany at a ten o'clock breakfast. The
very fact that this meal is not used so
often as a means of entertainment as
luncheon or dinner recommends it to
many a hostess who enjoys the oppor-
tunity it offers for little touches of
novelty and originality, and for its
atmosphere of ease, freedom, and in-
timacy.

A formal breakfast may be served as
early as ten o'clock or a little before;
and as late as twelve or half-past twelve,
but not later. The meal resembles a
luncheon, and the resemblance is more
marked the later the hour it is given; yet
there are certain well-defined differences
— as that the coffee is served in breakfast
cups, the breads are always hot, lights
are .never included in the table decora-
tions, and though a salad may be served,
soup should never form part of any meal
calling itself a breakfast. It is true that
a light soup is sometimes found to head
the menus of company breakfasts; yet
the best social usage regards it as out of
place for a breakfast in this country.

A "small and early" formal breakfast
begins with the service of choice fruits
in season. This is followed by either
fish or eggs in some form, and after that a
meat dish, such as chops, kidneys, chicken
or small birds, with potatoes, and a vege-
table, such as celery, fresh sliced tomatoes,
or the like, served with a dressing of oil
and vinegar. Two kinds of hot breads

are served all through the fish and meat
courses. While no formal sweet course
is served at a ten o'clock breakfast, yet
waffles with syrup may come on at the
close, or French pancakes — the kind that
are spread with jelly, rolled like a jelly
roll and dusted with powdered "sugar.
Or there may be a strawberry shortcake
with whipped cream, a shortcake of the
real kind, made of biscuit dough. Or if
eggs were not previously served, a sweet
omelet may be substituted for waffles or
cakes. The following is a correct menu
for

A Ten O'clock Company Breakfast

Grapefruit stuffed with Cherries

Broiled Fish Sliced Cucumbers

Savory Omelet Potato Puffs Fresh Tomatoes

Wheat Muffins Hot Rolls

Cream Waffles with Butter

and Crushed Fresh Strawberries
Coffee

A more elaborate breakfast will have
a third course of meat, eggs, or game; a
salad served with one of the soft cheeses
and crackers; and a frozen dessert.
The following is a correct menu for

A Twelve O'clock Company
Breakfast

Orange-and-Malaga Grape Cocktail

Fish Souffle Lattice Potatoes

Deviled Kidneys Mushrooms

Maryland Chicken Rice

Cress with French Dressing

Toasted Crackers Cream Cheese

Pineapple Parfait, Lady Fingers

Coffee

Olives or pimolas, radishes, and salted
nuts may be used as relishes and passed
between the courses. Cream and sugar
are always offered with the coffee at a
company breakfast, and there is no rule
forbidding the serving of coffee early in
the meal.

750

AMERICAN COOKERY

FORMERLY THE

BOSTON COOKING- SCHOOL
MAGAZINE

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics

Subscription $1.50 per Year,Single Copies 15c
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year

TO SUBSCRIBERS

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal
of the same, has been received.

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank
enclosed for this purpose.

In sending notice to renew a subscription or
change of address, please give the old address
as well as the new.

In referring to an original entry, we must know
the name as it was formerly given, together with
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box,
or Street Number.

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Mattef

Statement of the Ownership, Management, etc., required by
the Act of Congress of Aug. 24, 1912, of the

AMERICAN COOKERY, published monthly
except July and September, at Boston, Mass.,
for April 1, 1920.

Publishers:

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, A4ass.

Editor: Janet M. Hill

Business Managers:

Beni. M. Hill and Robert B. Hill

Owners

Bent. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, Robt. B. Hill

Known bond or other security holders. None

Sworn to and subscribed before me this 31st day of March,
1920.

(Seal) JOHN E. PROUTY,

Notary Public

In May Time!

In May time balmy breezes play
Among the nodding treetops green,
And joyous songsters flit between
The boughs with merry roundelay!

Anemones — fair windflowers — sway
In woodland dance with graceful mien
In May time!

All nature's children — glad and gay —
Awaken then. Faith grows more keen
As proofs of reborn life are seen
O'erspreading God's fair earth — each day
In May time!

— Caroline L. Sumner.

REACTION

DURING the course of the war,
people were eager to work day and
night, great efficiency was manifested and
the amount of commodities produced was
enormous. This was the case throughout
the world. Now a reaction from war-
time work and activity seems to be taking
place, people are seeking a grand vaca-
tion, everywhere the demand is for easy
jobs, fewer hours of work and larger
wages. Nowhere is there lack of em-
ployment. "The harvest truly is plen-
teous, but the laborers are few." Every
one who desires work is engaged. But
no one seems willing to settle down to
steady productive toil. The result is
general inefficiency and slow production
and constantly increasing prices.

The common report of manufacturers
and employers of labor is that help today
is only 60 per cent efficient. The rail-
roads and other means of transportation
are in like or even worse condition, hence
commerce is impeded and behindhand.
The supply of products is not equal to the
demand and prices are exorbitant.

What we need most is not so much
fewer hours of work, holidays galore,
bonuses and old-age pensions, but the
opportunity to work as many hours as
we please, to settle down in steady pro-
ductive labor and render full service to
our day and generation. All drives and
most charities are out of order. People
everywhere must be set to work and
taught to help themselves. Production
of every kind, and then more production
alone can remedy the evil conditions of
the present day.

By no means is the "vicious idea that
work is drudgery" to be considered.
Joyous work is the most wholesome and
satisfactory condition in life. We enjoy
what we earn and acquire far more than
what we are given. Often the pursuit of
objects affords greater pleasure than the
possession thereof. "We need to get
into our democracy the idea that the
most inspiring thing in life is work."
Work then, let everybody work, is the

EDITORIALS

751

slogan of the day. As Poor Richard
said, "Keep thy shop and thy shop will
keep thee."

WRONGS AND MISDEMEANORS

IN these stressful times certain things
are wrong. Extravagance or waste-
fulness of any sort or description is one
thing wrong. There is too much want
and suffering on the earth to justify
waste or extravagance on the part of
anybody. Profiteering in every form is
another thing wrong. It is out of order
and inexcusable. It means continuous
unrest and future trouble. A lack of
moral consciousness seems conspicuous
on every hand in the conduct of business
affairs. To combine and strike for higher
wage is a third wrong of the day. We
need, first, to show efficiency and worth
in our calling. The question may be
asked, is the laborer worthy of his hire?
Once more, we can think of nothing more
wicked and wrong than to apologize for
wrongdoing, and aid and abet the foes
of one's country. Surely wrongs and
misdemeanors of this nature cannot be
overlooked or forgotten. They menace
our welfare and our existence, perhaps,
as a people.

POLLYANNA STUFF

""¥TI7"HAT is sauce for the goose is
T T sauce for the gander," said long
ago some fair-minded man or some self-
asserting woman, I know not which.
But no one, so far as I am aware, has
arrived at a like impartial conclusion as
to the stuffing for the goose and the
gander. The latter, as a rule, stuffs
himself, but the goose, from time im-
memorial, has been stuffed now with one
precept, now with another, and recently
with this look-pleasant-Pollyanna stuf-
fing, which upon my word is far from
sage!

So far as can be recalled at the present
moment, there have been but two rec-
ords of masculine Pollyannas; one merely
pleasant, the other determined. Mark

Tapley was pleasant enough, but entirely
unreal. Josiah Allen was very unpleas-
ant. Samantha, his wife, lay ill-abed on
one occasion — ill enough to be fretted
by small matters, one of which was the
curious behavior of Josiah — not or-
dinarily a genial man — ■ who kept putting
his head in at her bedroom door every
hour or so and sniggering. Ill or no ill,
Samantha could not long endure this.
Presently, in extreme exasperation, she
asked the reason for this unseemly
behavior. "Samanthy," said he, "the
doctor says I must be cheerful, and I
will be cheerful!" And he sniggered
again and withdrew. A pleasant Polly-
anna is a thorn in the flesh, but a deter-
mined Pollyanna is sharper than a
serpent's tooth.

There is something in eternally count-
ing one's blessings, in season and out, or
in triumphantly finding blessings where
only disappointments are visible to the
naked eye, that is depressing to the
innocent bystander. The Pilgrim Fa-
thers, instituting a single day in the year
for thanksgiving purposes were wise and
farseeing. Governor Carver and Elder
Brewster and Historian Bradford knew
very well that it is lively and virile dis-
satisfaction that makes for progress; and
that by indulging in dissatisfaction for
364 days, one is pricked on to better
conditions sufficiently to have real prog-
ress to be thankful for on the 365th.
The abundantly spread tables of that
first famous Thanksgiving Day meant
that Mistress Carver and Goodwife
Brewster and the rest had been very
much dissatisfied with inconveniences in
their kitchens, and weeds in their kitchen-
gardens (among other things), and that
their goodmen had been unremittingly
nagged into making things more com-
fortable. Hence, it was that they were
highly unsatisfied when Master Jones
of the Mayflower threatened to return
promptly to England. They sang no
psalms of praise for the blessings they
had ashore — which were few enough,
in all conscience! They got busy and in-

752

AMERICAN COOKERY

timidated Master Jones. He should keep
the Mayflower's anchor dropped off shore,
till they were good and ready to have him
go! Had they not recognized what
might be called the narrow squeak of
things, Plymouth Rock would be today a
mere symbol of defeat.

Less than any other, I think, would
the good Priscilla of Plymouth have been
a Pollyanna. She and John Alden were
not always young and carefree lovers.
In time they came to be the parents of
eleven children. Had Priscilla, on a
Saturday night, with eleven youngsters
lined up for a bath and no hot water
ready, said sweetly, " Never mind, John,
I've a good ladle o' soap, anyway, and
the children could be dirtier" — then
John would easily have slipped into the
habit of never having the weekly bath-
water hot and ready, and the children,
very presently, couldn't be dirtier. But
Priscilla, being the mother of a large
brood, knew her own mind, and the
chances are that she said firmly, " 'Tis
a pity, John Alden, if you cannot bestir
yourself. And the water be not hot and
ready to my hand in a half hour at most,
you shall e'en scrub the children yourself.
I might have known that the man that
could not speak for himself would needs
be prodded into action likewise. I'll
warrant you, had I wedded Captain
Standish — as I might ha' done, as you
well know! — there'd ha' been hot water
a-plenty at my need!"

The Pollyanna stuff, like the quality
of mercy, is not strained. Indeed not!
It is the honey plus the honeycomb, and
sateth her that gives and her that takes.
To ask a child to forego a pleasure or to
do an unpleasant job, and have him
acquiesce as though he were being
invited to the circus is extremely dis-
concerting, and makes one feel like an
ogre. But if he scowl ever so little and
say, "Well, I don't want to, but anyway
I will," one has obedience, gets the job
done, and has one's adult self-respect.
Just as poor Mary Lamb could endure
the sacrifice Charles was making for her

with fewer pangs, because of his great
fault that called for forbearance from
her.

I have a young relative who stood in
the position of innocent bystander in the
presence of Pollyanna stuff, though only
upon the printed page. At fifteen she
decided to become a librarian, and
planned her school work with that in
view. Her vacations were spent in
library apprenticeship. At twenty she
reached her goal; at twenty-five was
successful at it. Then suddenly, with-
out warning, she threw up the job so
suited to her taste, inclinations, and
capacity, and went into business. Asked
by interested friends why she did so,
she had an invariable reply: "I was
sick and tired of handing out Pollyannas
to the Public!" 'Twas this incident
that crystalized my own opinions, and
hinc ilia lacryma.

— Helen Coale Crew.

This May number of American Cook-
ery carries a Title Page and Complete
Annual Index. • Magazines that provide
an index are now rare, indeed. The
bound volumes of this magazine, now
twenty-four in number, are very valuable.
Not a few of our readers have the en-
tire set of twenty-four volumes. As a
Culinary Reference Library this journal
has become a work of no inconsiderable
importance; it is also somewhat unique.
We can furnish our readers binders suita-
ble to hold the issues of each year in red,
green and ecru cloth. Are not your yearly
subscriptions worthy of preservation?

Apropos the new American poetry,
Margaret Widdemer offers the following
as the undaunted version of Emerson's
"So Near is Grandeur to our Dust," —
My Dust — proud, reeking, vivescent . .
Grandeur is IT! It is grandeur!
It is so grand — ■ gee! Grand's the word!
When Duty whispers to it, it answers,
Shouting in the full glory of Egotistic

Certainty —
"Duty? I never heard of you!"

STUFFED ONIONS (SEE PAGE 756)

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes

By Janet M. Hill and Mary D. Chambers

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour.

Asparagus-and-Chicken Soup

PUT on to boil in three pints of
water two pounds of chicken or
fowl, cut into small pieces, and let
cook for two hours. Cut the tender tips
from two large bunches of green asparagus,
and set aside; cut the remainder of the
stalks into one-inch pieces, and cook with
the chicken for thirty minutes longer.
Strain, separate the asparagus from the
chicken, and press through potato ricer to
extract juice and coloring. This, with
seasoning of three teaspoonfuls of salt,
one-half a teaspoonful of pepper, and
one-fourth a teaspoonful of celery salt, is
added to the chicken stock, with the tips
of the asparagus previously reserved and
kept in cold water. Cook fifteen minutes
longer, and serve with croutons, or with
Royal Custard.

King of Soups (Russian)

Wash, pare, and cut into small pieces
three large red beets, and cook in one and
one-half quarts of meat stock, until
stock is colored. Meantime fry to a light
brown in one-fourth a cup of butter,
one stalk of celery, one small onion, and
six mushrooms, all chopped fine. Drain
out vegetables; add four tablespoonfuls

of flour to the browned butter, and stir
into soup. Season with a scant table-
spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper,
and two tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped
parsley. Serve in tureen with one-inch
cubes of bread — ■ hollowed out in center,
browned crisp in oven, and the cavities
filled with cooked beef's marrow —
arranged in tureen before it goes to the
table.

Asparagus Sauce, for Roast Lamb
or Chicken

Thicken two cups of veal or chicken
stock with four tablespoonfuls of flour
and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add
from one-half to one cup of asparagus
that has been steamed until tender and
cut into small pieces, one-fourth a cup of
cream, and one tablespoonful of vinegar.
Let the whole get hot through; add one-
fourth a cup of toasted bread crumbs,
and serve with any delicate meat.

Waffles for May Breakfast

Cream one cup of butter; add the
beaten yolks of four eggs, and one cup of
milk, alternately, with two cups of flour,
sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking
powder and one-half a teaspoonful of
salt. Beat into the batter the last thing

753

754

AMERICAN COOKERY

the stiff-beaten whites of the four eggs.
These waffles may be served with straw-
berries and sugar crushed together for
the last course of a May breakfast.

Planked Shad

•Split a roe shad from head to tail.
Place on a heated plank. Brush over
the fish with melted butter and sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Bake twenty-
five minutes in a hot oven. Baste fre-
quently with melted butter. Bake roe
fifteen minutes in a pan spread with
bacon fat. When the fish is cooked, fill
the space between fish and the edge of
the board with duchesse potato (recipe
following) . Shape the potato by means of
a forcing-bag and star-tube. Return plank
to oven to brown potato. Remove from
oven ; place roe and broiled bacon on fish — ■

water, salted with one teaspoonful of
salt. When tender add two tablespoon-
fuls of butter blended with one table-
spoonful of flour, and stir mixture care-
fully until thick. Add four well-beaten
eggs, and when cooked until thick, but
not curdled, half-fill six small molds with
the mixture. When cold unmold on
lettuce leaves, and decorate with bits of
red pepper or slices of tomato.

Oatmeal Kisses

Cream one cup of butter or fat with
one cup and one-half of sugar. Add
three beaten eggs, and two cups and
one-half of flour mixed with two cups of
rolled oats, ground in coffee grinder, one
cup of raisins, one-half a cup nuts, one
teaspoonful of baking powder, and one
teaspoonful, each, of powdered cinnamon

PLANKED SHAD, DUCHESSE POTATO

garnish with parsley, lemon and radishes.
Duchesse Potato

To a pint of hot riced potatoes add two
tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoon-
ful of salt, the beaten yolks of three eggs
and enough hot milk to let the mixture
pass easily through a forcing-bag.

Molded Asparagus

Wash, scrape, and cut into half-inch
lengths a bunch of green asparagus, and
cook for fifteen minutes in one cup of

and grated nutmeg, or a little mace.

This should be worked into a very
stiff dough, and baked in small pieces
about the size of a walnut, slightly
flattened and set far apart on a baking
sheet. When nicely browned, join in
couples with a little syrup or icing.
These will keep for a long time, and
improve on keeping.

Salisbury Steak with Horseradish
Sauce and Broiled Banana

Put a pound of round steak, three times,

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

755

SALISBURY STEAK. HORSERADISH SAUCE AND BANANAS

through a fine meat grinder. Season
with two teaspoonfuls of onion juice, one-
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Form into six round
cakes, about an inch thick, and broil
in a Salisbury meat broiler, or any fine
wire broiler will do, if the Salisbury is not
available. When well browned on the
outside arrange steaks on a platter, and
set this in the warming-oven while you
prepare the following sauce.

Horseradish Sauce

Mix three tablespoonfuls of sifted
breadcrumbs with one-half a cup of
cream. Add three tablespoonfuls of
grated horseradish, season lightly with
salt, and a dash of dry mustard; heat
over hot water, and just before serving
add one tablespoonful of vinegar.

Broiled Banana

Peel one large banana and one-half,
and divide into six strips. Broil over a
clear fire until hot through. Arrange a
spoonful of the horseradish sauce on
each round of steak; over this place a
section of broiled banana and garnish the
dish with cress.

Chicken en Casserole

This dish is at its best when made with
chickens weighing about three pounds or a
little more. For a choice dish use two
chickens, making broth of the bulky
pieces in which to cook the rest of the
chicken. The day before the dish is to
be served, cut the chickens in pieces at
the joints. Cover the carefully washed
necks, backs and giblets, except the

CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE

756

AMERICAN COOKERY

livers, with cold water and let cook till
the flesh is tender. Cool the broth,
skim, and it is ready for use. The
pieces of chicken can be used in some
other dish. Saute the pieces of raw
chicken in a little hot clarified butter,
pork or bacon fat, then transfer them to
the casserole. Heat the broth to the
boiling point, pour it over the contents,
cover close, and let cook very gently in
the oven till the chicken is nearly tender.
Have ready as many small parboiled
onions as there are people to serve, also
six or eight potato balls, cut with a
French scoop, a young carrot cut in quar-
ters, and peas, for each service. Saute all
these vegetables in the frying pan until
well browned. The onions should have
been boiled at least an hour, then rinsed

brush over with olive oil and broil.
Serve on toast.

Roast Spring Chicken, Stuffed
with Ripe Olives

Prepare a chicken as for roasting, and
fill it completely with the following
stuffing. One and one-half cups of
bread crumbs, moistened with hot water,
and seasoned with two tablespoonfuls of
butter, one tablespoonful of minced
onion, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper. Add one
cup of stoned ripe olives, and bind with
one beaten egg.

Stuffed Onions

Parboil or steam half a dozen Spanish
or other choice onions about an hour.

BROILED SQUAB

and dried, and the carrots and potatoes,
boiled five minutes, drained and dried
before sauteing. About fifteen minutes
before serving the dish, skim off all fat
from the broth; add the browned vege-
tables, a spoonful of lemon juice, salt
and pepper as needed, and return the
dish, covered close, to the oven. If a
thicker sauce be desired, thicken the
broth with flour, before adding it to the
dish; skim off the fat at time of serving
and a particularly velvety sauce results.

Broiled Squab

Split squab or chicken; salt, pepper,

Remove from the fire and cut out a cir-
cular piece from the top of each. Then
scoop out the inside to form cups. Chop
fine or pass through a sieve the onion
that has been taken out. Add an equal
measure of cold, cooked veal or chicken,
chopped fine, about a fourth a teaspoon-
ful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper,
a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one-
fourth a cup of soft bread crumbs, and
one-fourth a cup of butter, and mix
thoroughly. Put a spoonful of the mix-
ture into each onion, then put in one
French chestnut or three or four home-
grown chestnuts, that have been shelled,

SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES

757

ASPARAGUS WITH BUTTERED CRUMBS

blanched and boiled tender, and finish
filling the cups with the prepared mix-
ture. Bake slowly one hour, basting
three or four times writh butter melted in
hot water. Fifteen minutes before serv-
ing, sprinkle the top of each with but-
tered cracker crumbs, and return to the
oven to brown. Serve surrounded with
a cup of single, or thin, cream, thickened
with a tablespoonful of butter and flour,
creamed together and seasoned with
salt and white pepper.

Asparagus, Buttered Crumbs

Boil one bunch of asparagus. Place on
a platter. In a frying pan put four
generous tablespoonfuls of butter and
one-half a cup of fresh bread crumbs; fry
until a deep yellow. Pour over the tips
of the asparagus, sprinkle with salt, pep-
per and chopped parsley. Garnish with
slices of hard-cooked eggs.

Dasheen, Au Gratin

Pare eight dasheen, cut in cubes, let
boil ten minutes in salted wrater. Make
two cups of white sauce; stir in dasheen
cubes, place in a baking dish, sprinkle
lightly with buttered crumbs, and brown
in hot oven.

The cultivation of dasheen has been
introduced into the gulf states by the
department of agriculture with marked
success. It can now be procured in most
of our northern markets. On account of
a large per cent of protein dasheen has
a higher food value than potato.

Noisette Bread

Soften one cake of, compressed yeast
in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water;
add to one cup of scalded-and-cooled
milk. Stir in one tablespoonful of short-
ening, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one

DASHEEN, AU GRATIN

758

AMERICAN COOKERY

NOISETTE BREAD

cup of filbert meats, whole, and half a cup
of entire wheat flour. Add white flour
as needed for dough. Knead thoroughly,
return to bowl. Cover close and let
stand in warm place until double in bulk.
Shape into a loaf, place in pan, set aside
until almost doubled in bulk, then bake in
a moderate oven.

Rhubarb-and-Raisin Pie

Cut rhubarb into small pieces, enough
to make one cup. Add one cup of seeded
raisins, and let both simmer in water to
cover until rhubarb is tender and raisins
are well plumped. Strain, and thicken
liquid with two tablespoonfuls of flour
blended with two tablespoonfuls of but-
ter; sweeten with one-half a cup of sugar;
stir in one well-beaten tgg; mix again with
the cooked rhubarb and raisins, and pour

into a fresh-baked pastry shell; use when
cold.

Pear Salad

Select tender halves of canned Bartlett
pears and arrange on heart-leaves of
lettuce. Fill the pear cavities with the
following dressing and sprinkle with
chopped nuts.

Dressing for Pear Salad

Into one cup of heavy cream crumble
one cake of cream cheese. Beat with a
Dover beater until firm.

Strawberry Cream Tart

Line a rather deep baking dish with
puff-paste, and fill as full as possible with
alternate layers of strawberries and sugar.
Cover with a thick top crust of the puff

PEAR SALAD

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

759

paste, with a small hole cut in the center
of the top. Bake in a quick oven until
paste is well browned. Set tart aside
until cool, and then pour in through a
funnel inserted in the hole on top the
following mixture. One cup of cream,
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one beaten
egg. Cook in double boiler until egg has
thickened the cream, and cool quickly
in ice water before adding to tart. Brush
the top crust with strawberry juice and
sift powdered sugar over it before serving.

May Party Cakes

Break into a large bowl six eggs, one
cup of sugar, and three-fourths a cup of
butter. Set bowl in hot water, and
beat all with Dover beater until butter is
dissolved and mixture is slightly warm.
Add one cup of flour, sifting this in while
beating, and continue to beat over hot
water until the mixture begins slightly to
thicken. Pour into a shallow pan lined
with greased paper, and bake until the
surface is firm. When cold cut into
fancy shapes and frost and decorate, or
use for jelly sandwiches.

American Crusty Rolls

2 cups boiled water,

cooled
1 teaspoonful salt
5 to 6 cups flour

1 cake compressed

yeast
j cup boiled water,

cooled
f cup flour

Soften the yeast in the one-fourth a cup
of water and stir in the three-fourths a
cup of flour; knead the little ball of dough
until smooth and elastic. Make two cuts
across the top of the dough at right
angles to each other, a quarter of an
inch deep. Set the ball in a bowl con-
taining the rest of the water. When the
ball floats — ■ a light, puffy mass — add
the other ingredients and mix to a dough.
Knead until smooth and elastic, fifteen
or twenty minutes. Cover the dough
and set aside in a temperature of about
70° F. until it has doubled in bulk. Turn
onto a slightly floured board, divide into
twelve pieces, kneading each piece until
smooth and elastic. Let rise until
doubled in bulk, in Crusty Roll Pans.
Bake about fifty minutes. When nearly
baked, brush over with beaten egg-white
and return to oven.

AMERICAN CRUSTY ROLLS

760

AMERICAN COOKERY

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM

Strawberry Bavarian Cream

Soften half a package of gelatine in
half a cup of cold water and dissolve in
half a cup of hot strawberry syrup; add
one cup of strawberries pressed through
a sieve, three-fourths a cup of sugar and
the juice of half a lemon. Stir until the
sugar is dissolved, then let chill on ice and
water. When the mixture begins to
thicken, fold in one cup and one half of
cream beaten firm — mold and serve cold
decorated with chopped pistachio nuts
and small meringues.

Cherry Salad

Remove pulp from one grapefruit;
sprinkle with one tablespoonful of pow-
dered sugar, and let stand at least one
hour. Take out stones from one cup of
white cherries, and put small filbert

meats in the place of these stones. Ar-
range leaves of crisp lettuce on a salad
platter. Place prepared fruit on leaves.
Dot each individual portion with three
maraschino cherries. Serve cream salad
dressing at one side.

Cream Salad Dressing

Mix half a teaspoonful of mustard,
half a teaspoonful of salt and a generous
fourth a teaspoonful of paprika. Add
the yolks of two eggs, and mix thoroughly.
Add one-fourth a cup of butter and one-
fourth a cup of cider vinegar. Set the
saucepan over hot water, and stir until
the mixture becomes smooth and thick.
Then remove from the fire and beat in
the white of one egg, beaten dry. Return
the saucepan to the hot water, if needed,
to set the egg. Beat the mixture con-
stantly while it is in the hot water. When

CHERRY SALAD

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES

761

the mixture is cold and the salad is ready or paper, filled with fruit, nuts, or candy,
to serve, fold in half a cup of thick cream, will give great pleasure to the May Queen
beaten solid. and her maids.

Cake for Decoration Day

Make a cup cake, a pound cake, or
any favorite mixture, and bake in three
parts, in deep layer tins. Make the
icings as follows :

Drop the whites of three eggs into a
large bowl, and add three tablespoonfuls
of powdered sugar. Beat with spoon-
beater until mixed; add three more table-
spoonfuls of sugar, and continue until
three cups of powdered sugar have been
added. The icing ought to be light and
fluffy, if properly beaten. Now divide
into three parts, flavor one with almond
extract; color another pink, and flavor
with cinnamon; color the third yellow,
and flavor with grated orange rind, and
use these icings on the three cakes,
applying them with a liberal hand. Pile
the cakes over one another, the pink at
the bottom, the white on top, and just
before the icings are quite firm, scatter
over all as much grated cocoanut as will
adhere to both top surface and sides.

Cake for May Queen, I

Cream one-half a cup of butter with one
cup of sugar; add the beaten whites of
three eggs, and one cup of sour cream,
into which one-half a teaspoonful of soda,
dissolved in a little warm water, had
been stirred. Add two cups of pastry
flour, sifted with one-half of one grated
nutmeg, and one-half a cup of very fine-
shaved citron. Lastly, add the beaten
whites of the three eggs, and bake in a
pretty shaped tin. Cover with any kind
of white icing, thrust into the center a
striped candy Maypole to which narrow
ribbons have been attached at top, the
ribbons to end in small Maybaskets that
are arranged around the cake. .If the
baskets are made of candy, it will be
more appropriate, but baskets of straw

Cake for May Queen, II

Make a layer cake, using only the
whites of. the eggs as in Silver Cake, or
White Cake. (See recipe in American
Cookery, Aug.-Sept., 1919, page 135.)
For filling, grind one-fourth a pound of
pistachio nuts, and mix with a frosting of
white of egg and confectioner's sugar,
tinted green with spinach juice. Ice the
cake with the same frosting, minus the
"nuts, and decorate with a pretty design of
white and pink frosting, piped on with a
pastry tube.

Rich Black Cherry Pudding

Dissolve in two cups of rich cream one-
half a cup of butter. Add three-fourths
a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of grated
lemon rind, and one-fourth a teaspoonful,
each, of nutmeg and cloves. Add the
beaten yolks of four eggs, one cup of
fine-sifted crumbs from toasted bread,
and a quart box of black cherries, pre-
viously stoned. Lastly, beat lightly in
the stiff-beaten whites of the eggs, pour
into a buttered mold, stand on several
thicknesses of paper in a pan filled with
hot water to reach half-way up the pud-
ding mold, and bake until pudding is
firm.

Serve with a hard sauce, flavored with
grated lemon rind.

Delicious Cheese

Rub the yolk of one hard-boiled egg to
a paste with a tablespoonful of olive oil
or melted butter. Add, in the order
given, one teaspoonful of salt, one of
made mustard, one of granulated sugar,
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Mix with this two cups of grated cheese,
and one cup of chopped chicken. Press
into scallop shells, and bake until cheese
is melted.

Well-Balanced Menus for Week in May

Breakfast

Strawberries

Halibut Filets Broiled French Fried Potatoes

Yeast Rolls (reheated)

Waffles Coffee

Dinner

Radishes Tomato Soup Croutons

Roast Filet of Veal Franconia Potatoes

Asparagus Spanish Onions stuffed with Beans

Stuffed Lettuce Salad

Caramel Ice-cream

Coffee

Luncheon

Poached Eggs on Toast with Asparagus Tips

Lemon Jelly Sponge Drops

Tea and Cocoa

Breakfast

Cream Barley Grits Dates

Corned Beef Hash Pickles

Spider Corn Cake Coffee

Luncheon

Asparagus-and-Chicken Soup

Deviled Cheese Beet Greens

Toasted Crackers Chocolate

Dinner

Roast Spring Chicken

Stuffed with Ripe Olives

Spanish Onion in Cream Mashed Potato

Harlequin Jelly

California Lettuce, French Dressing

Strawjberry Cream Tart

Coffee

Breakfast

Stewed Prunes

Quaker Oats Top Milk

Calf's Liver with Bacon

Creamed Potatoes

Popovers Coffee

Luncheon

Tomatille of Veal Molded Asparagus

Oatmeal Kisses Grape Juice Whip

Tea

Dinner

Salisbury Steak with Horseradish Sauce

Riced Potatoes Broiled Bananas

Stringless Beans

Rhubarb-and-Raisin Pie

Coffee

Breakfast

Pineapple

Hulled Corn Cream

Omelet with Creamed Lamb

Parker House Rolls Coffee

Luncheon

Turban of Chicken

Orange Salad

Boiled Rice

French Toast

Maple Syrup

Cocoa

Dinner

Clam Broth

Tenderloin Cutlets, Tomato Sauce

Bermuda Onions Buttered

Water Cress Salad

Strawberry Shortcake

Coffee

Breakfast

Stewed Dried Peaches

Cream of WTheat

Fish Cakes (bits of cooked fish) Rye Muffins

Doughnuts

Coffee

Luncheon

King of Soups Pulled Bread

Black Cherry Pudding

Cocoa

Dinner

Roast Leg of Lamb

Boiled New Potatoes Asparagus Sauce

Cress Salad

Prune Souffle Cake

Coffee

Breakfast

Cresco Grits Thin Cream

Poached Eggs, WTaldorf Style

Radishes

Glazed Currant Buns

Grapefruit Marmalade

Luncheon

Dried Lima Beans and Kornlet Succotash

New Beets, Buttered

Wellesley Toast

Cocoa

Dinner

Tomato Bouillon

Broiled Shad Baked Potatoes

Philadelphia Relish

Creamed Cauliflower Peas

Lemon Meringue Pie

Coffee

Breakfast

Salt Codfish Cakes, Bacon

Corn Meal Muffins

Fried Mush (Wheatena)

Caramel Syrup

Coffee

Luncheon

Corn Chowder

Egg-Salad Sandwiches

Caramel-Coffee Jelly

Whipped Cream

Tea

Dinner

Mock Bisque Soup

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin

Hashed Brown Potatoes

Creamed Cabbage

Baked Rhubarb

Boiled Custard Little Cakes

Coffee

762

Menus for Special Occasions

MAY LUNCHEONS

Strawberry Cocktails

Clam Bouillon with Whipped Cream

Radishes Olives Salted Nuts

Truffled Fish Mousse, Bechamel Sauce

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Chives

Larded Veal Cutlets en Casserole

Vanderbilt Salad

Baba, Apricot Sauce

Coffee

Salpicon of Orange and Pineapple
Cream of Spinach Soup Bread Sticks

Fried Sweetbreads with Mushrooms

Rolls

California Lettuce, French Dressing

Candied Grapefruit Peel Biscuit Tortoni, Lady Fingers

Coffee

WEDDING BREAKFAST

Grapefruit Cocktail

Lobster Cutlets, Sauce Tartare

Cucumbers Bouchees of Mushrooms

Lady Finger Rolls

Galantine of Fowl Aspic Jelly

Asparagus Tips New Peas

Romaine Salad
Cafe Parfait Strawberry Sherbet

Bride-and-Wedding Cake
Bonbons Coffee Nuts

WEDDING RECEPTION

Chicken Croquettes Asparagus Tips Creamed

Veal Loaf Sliced Thin Watercress Garnish

Lobster Salad
Tomato Jelly Cups with Sweetbread-and-Cucumber Salad

Salad Rolls
Orange Sherbet with Sliced Fresh Fruit
Burnt Almond Parfait
Bonbons Assorted Cakes Salted Nuts

Coffee

FORMAL DINNER

Anchovy, Egg and Pimola Canapes

Consomme with Asparagus Tips

Filet of Fish stuffed with Mushrooms, Mushroom Sauce

Sliced Cucumbers and Chives, French Dressing

Crown Roast of Lamb

Asparagus-Hollandaise Banana Croquettes

Broiled Squabs, Dandelion Salad

Pistachio-and-Strawberry Ice Cream

Lemon WTater Ice Macaroons

Coffee

763

Gaining Time in the Home

By Salina Sheets Martin

WHERE there is system observed invite her soul", if she is to get her full
in the home, extra hours seem to share of joy out of life. Houses and
be gained for other things than the regular food and clothes and furniture are all a
housework. When each household duty means to an end, namely, our comfort,

and not an end in themselves.

In order to achieve leisure, there must
be a careful study of foods, that proper
kinds and quantities be served to the
family for its nourishment, primarily, and
in as pleasing a form as is consistent with
time and means.

Clothes, too, come in for their share of
is a rather perplexing

has*a regular time in which that duty is
performed, it seems to half-perform itself,
so great is the help of a regular habit.

It is to be taken for granted that in the
general, regular home each day meals
must be prepared, dishes washed, beds
made and things picked up and the house
put to rights more or less carefully.
System in the planning of the work pre-

attention, and it

supposes regularity about each duty of question with present prices. Simplicity

the day. System, regularity and order
go hand in hand. We cannot have one
without the others. We cannot clean up
the house, say once a week, and expect
it to remain so, where it is used by the
family, without giving it daily attention
any more than we can give the family one
big meal a week and expect to do no other
cooking for them.

By doing the dishes at once after break-
fast, while the bedrooms air, then when
the beds are made, rooms straightened
up and each article put in its proper place,
if the carpet sweeper is used a bit, the
work is practically done. It may be
necessary to use a dust cloth each day in
some cases, but that does not take much
time if done frequently. There is little
dust in a home where a sweeper or
vacuum cleaner is used, and not a broom.

should be the keynote of dress, yet never
have I seen more fanciful garments than
are now displayed in store windows. It
is a time for individual independence and,
where one has a garment that will
answer the purpose, it seems folly to pay
the present exorbitant price for a new
one just to be in vogue. Much time
can here be gained to the benefit of the
purse.

Another time saver is in the arrange-
ment of the furniture, or the appoint-
ments of the home. It was a fortunate
day for the housekeeper when drapes and
tidies went out of style. Each piece or
article in a home should have a very
good excuse for being there — either in
use or beauty or both. Who can find
pleasure or rest in a cluttered room?
Simplicity again should be the keynote.

A broom should be used only for the rug- Each room requires certain articles, ac-

cleaning on the outside of the house, not cording to the purpose of the room and

on the inside. beyond that, more is an excess and a

A housekeeper must plan for some time waster to keep clean and in order,

leisure each day, in which to "loaf and I have always valued highly the testimony

764

SOUP OF THE DAY

765

(a compliment I regard it) of the little
colored maid who said "she liked to clean
my kitchen because there wasn't any-
thing in it only what belonged there."

Where outside help comes for the day,
much more can be accomplished by
having everything pertaining to the day's
work well planned and all things ready.

This is especially true of the laundry
work and of sewing.

Again I say, in closing this article, that
where system, order, regularity and plan
maintain in the home, there will, also,
be found rest, leisure, comfort and all the
conditions that make for the happiness
of its members.

Soup of the Day

By Helen Bo wen

1USED to read so much advice to
American housewives to follow the
French custom of keeping a soup kettle
on the back of the stove for making
savory soups of odds and ends of food,
that I was fired to try it. None of the
advisers gave any details of managing the
pot; seemingly one kept a pot at a per-
petual simmer, dropping in bones, meat,
vegetables, etc., from time to time, adding
water as needed, and dipping out daily
appetizing soup. There was no sug-
gestion of the possibility of the older in-
gredients growing, to put it delicately,
superannuated; no hint even of that
pot's ever becoming over-full of odds
and ends, nor even needing a scrub. The
American housewife, however inex-
perienced, was supposed to know how to
handle those matters, — or perhaps the
adviser did not. Sometimes a word was
dropped about skimming off the fat,
which sounds easier than it is, but none
to warn one that most of the vegetable
flavors would go with it.

I suppose the French housewife has her
own technique for handling these prob-
lems. I worked out my own gradually,
meeting the conditions imposed by a gas
stove, which prohibits perpetual simmer-
ing, and by a summer climate in which
foods spoil quickly. I do not keep a soup
kettle continually in use, but I usually
have soup-stock on hand, sufficient to
serve the family several times a week with
a rich nourishing soup, which forms, with
bread and butter, the main dish at lunch-

eon, as we prefer that to having a soup
course at dinner. This soup is always
made of odds and ends, never takes much
labor, is always savory, those who eat it
say, and is seldom twice alike. Some-
times it is a meat soup, sometimes vege-
table, often mixed; it may be thick, clear,
or halfway between, and the ingredients
cover a wide range. It is never made by
a recipe, but by applying certain general
rules to the handling of whatever mater-
ials are the day's left-overs: for it is what
Italians call a minestra del giorno, or soup
of the day.

The first rule is for the use cl meat and
bones, whether cooked or uncooked.
These are put on in cold water, without
seasoning, and simmered two hours or
more, or placed in ? tireless cooker for a
half-day or more. The liquid is then
strained into a bowl and set away to cool.
When cold, the hardened fat is lifted off
and saved to use like other drippings,
and the liquid is ready to be heated,
seasoned and served.

The principle for vegetables is to save
the water in which they were cooked,
except those cooked in skins which are
afterwards discarded, as potatoes in their
jackets, and beets. Canned vegetables
I heat in their own liquid, straining it
off when ready to serve. This vegetable
stock may be combined with milk, with
meat stock or the liquid from other
vegetables, and seasoned in various ways.
With such a range of vegetables as peas,
different kinds of beans, spinach and other

766

AMERICAN COOKERY

greens, onions, potatoes, carrots, cabbage,
green peppers, tomatoes, summer squash,
asparagus, cucumbers, lettuce and celery,
the combinations are almost endless.
The left-over bits of the vegetables
themselves may be added to the stock.

The third rule is that of using some
starchy or cereal element for its nourish-
ing qualities. These include rice, tapioca,
pearl barley, little squares of toast,
cooked cereals, noodles, mashed and
riced potato, and all the various forms of
what the Italians call pasta, which in-
cludes macaroni and vermicelli as well as
the elbows, letters and other small fancy
shapes made especially for soups.

The fourth rule is to use seasonings
sparingly in stock that is strongly
flavored, such as onion, celery, spinach,
tomato and green pepper, but liberally
in the more tasteless, selecting, for each
soup to taste, from a shelf holding such
things as cayenne, paprika, black pepper,
celery salt, onion salt, bay leaves, curry
powder, and some good bottled sauce.
Parsley and chives I find delightful in
soups made of the more delicate vegetable
stocks with milk. The curry I use very
sparingly in the cream-sauce thickening
of potato soup. Bayleaf adds interest to
the milder meat stocks, such as mutton,
which requires more seasoning than most.

The rule for combinations is hardly a
rule, for soups, like kisses, go by favor,
and what one family or person likes
another does not. My household will
try anything once, so I combine whatever
materials I have on hand, if they taste
appetizing to me. Some things, of course,
have a natural affinity for each other.
Potato water combines well with onion,
and both with most other vegetables, as
well as with meat stocks and milk.

Green pepper water gives life to mutton
or tongue stock. The water from summer
squash with tomato juice makes a tasty,
light soup, gay to look at, if bits of the
vegetables are floating in it. I use
skimmed milk with nearly any vegetable
stock, thickening it with flour and butter
substitute rubbed together, adding the
milk gradually while cooking, as in mak-
ing cream sauce, if I want a thick soup or
if the elements seem to need binding
together. These cream soups may be
delicate or very hearty, according to the
vegetable. Potato makes a substantial
soup and so do lima beans and dried peas.

What is left of one day's soup may be
combined with something else for to-
morrow. Yesterday's soup was made of
about 3 cups of potato water, 1 each of
summer squash and green-bean water,
one-half cup, each, of mashed potato and
summer squash, with thickening, onion
salt, celery salt and paprika. A pint of
it was left. Today's soup combined that
with mutton stock, made from remains of
a roast leg, toast croutons and a few drops
of Worcestershire sauce. Tomorrow's —
but who shall say what the morrow will
bring forth? Some mutton stock re-
mains, and something will turn up to
add to it, if not tomorrow, the next
day.

There is a legend in the family that I
once made a soup of a baked apple and a
fried egg, but my own impression is that
I merely rubbed those articles through a
strainer into the soup of that day.

For utensils and implements for soup-
making, one needs only a covered kettle
of a size to suit the family, some bowls to
keep stock in, a wooden handled spoon,
a ladle or dipper, and a coarse strainer of
strong wire.

Merry May

'Tis merry May, the birds are gay,
The orchards are in bloom,

The bees alight on blossoms bright
Are burdened with perfume,

Bright golden sunbeams kiss the sands
By azure lake and sea,

And where the rock-ribbed mountain stands

May wakes her melody.
Oh fragrant May, oh flowery May,

Bright queen of all the year,
To you I bring my offering,

To me you are most dear.

— A. R. Annable.

Contributions to this department will be gladly received.

paid for at reasonable rates.

Accepted items will be

For the Young Housewife

tion by occasionally rubbing them with a
mixture of linseed oil, two parts, vinegar

THE many little tasks, that are of

little importance to those who have onf. Part: /PP'7,™^, \soft,clotLh' rthen

i.i i , , polish with an old silk handkerchief, or

kept house several years, are a bugbear r .. r - - „., ' .

c j. rl some equally soft cloth. Silver that is

Some dislike

to those less experienced,
to ask advice, while others are laughed
at for not knowing. The time will soon
be here for putting away the winter
clothing and blankets, so before packing
the blankets send them to a reliable
cleaner, or have them thoroughly brushed
and shaken, then put them, one a ta time,
into a tub of very warm, but frot hot,
suds, using a good soap. Douse them
up and down until clean. Then have
ready a tub of warm water with about
two tablespoonfuls of ammonia and a
little soap in it. Rinse them thoroughly,
and press as much water as possible out.
Do not wring a blanket. Hang on a
clean line, turning once in a while.
Choose a bright, sunny day for this work.
When dry, fold and pack with cloves
between the folds. Wrap in newspaper
and pack away. Furs should be well
shaken and aired. Neck pieces cleaned
with equal parts of best perfume and
warm water lightly put on. Pack with
cloves the same as the blankets. The
heavier suits, wraps, etc., should be well
cleaned before putting away, not only for
sanitary reasons, but when they are taken
out in the autumn, one has no work to do.
Do not make the mistake of packing
away every warm suit. One often needs
them for a sudden trip, or a change in the
weather, also a light, warm jacket or
cape should be ready for use at any time.
Leather chairs can be kept in good condi-

not in use every day should be laid away
in a bag of canton flannel, having in the
bag a good-sized lump of gum camphor.
Flatirons should be given a bath once in a
while with hot soapsuds. Dry well, and
place in the sun for about half an hour.
Lukewarm water will remove ink, blood,
or egg stains better than hot. Put the
stained portion in a clean dish (not tin)
and cover with the water, changing until
the stain disappears. e. c. l.

A Fair Exchange

"T'VE been trying an experiment with
A apple sauce," said my neighbor, call-
ing across the garden fence. "Something
new — and something good. I had such
a lot of apples given me last fall, culls
mostly, — you know I was out on a
farm — ■ but good for canning. Perfectly
good, though they wouldn't keep. And
were too imperfect to sell. Well I
brought them home and canned apples
for days and days and days. I fairly
dreamed of apple sauce at night. I
filled up every extra jar I had — and
bought some extra two-quarts on pur-
pose."

"Didn't you get tired of apple sauce?"
I inquired.

My neighbor nodded. "That's it.
We did. We had it as such a steady diet.
At first, I took to recooking some of it
with cinnamon. It changed the flavor.

767

768

AMERICAN COOKERY

and made the old sauce seem like a new
dish. Then I camouflaged with all
sorts of flavorings — almond, pineapple,
vanilla, etc. That did splendidly for a
time, and even yet for that matter. It's
wonderful what a little flavor added to
apple sauce will do. But that isn't what
I started to tell you about. It's this —
another new apple-sauce dish. To a can
of apple sauce I add a cup — sometimes
two cups — of bottled grape juice. You
know our grapes were loaded last year,
and I bottled up quarts and quarts of
the juice. Now I am combining apple
sauce and grape juice. It is simply
splendid — and splendidly simple. I'm
going to send you over some to try. I'm
sure you and Uncle Henry will like it."

"It sounds good," said I. "And I'll
offer in exchange something new I've
been making. You see, nobody gave me
any culls, and I didn't get as much fruit
put up as usual. Really, we've run
short — having so much company this
winter. And Amanda and her children
here for so long. So I've been making
marmalade ■ — orange marmalade. Out
of carrots. Just a cup of cooked and
grated carrots, a cup of sugar, juice and
rind of one lemon - — or two, if the lemons
are small. Syrup can be used instead of
sugar. Simmer slowly till of the right
consistency. Add a little water, if needed,
when cooking — usually the marmalade
is best cooked without water, but some-
times the carrots seem especially dry.
Then I use a bit of boiling water."

"It sounds good," said my neighbor —
we'd both said the same without ever
once thinking. . . . So we brought our
dishes of "sauce" and made fair exchange
across the back garden fence. And both
of our husbands had something different
served for supper. Really, sometimes
I do think that living in a small town,
where everybody knows everybody, has
its advantages. But I'd have hard times
trying to make Amanda think that.
Amanda lives in the city. And, all in
all, I suppose it is just as well, and a little
better, that we don't all see alike.

Wouldn't it be kind of dreadful now if
we all wanted to live in the same spot?

R. F.
* * *

A Few Food Facts
Cheese

HEESE contains more than twice
as much nourishment, pound for
pound, as the best beefsteak.

There are in all over 500 varieties of
cheese.

Cheddar, or the American dairy cheese,
is characterized by its solid, close texture,
delicate, mild aroma, and pleasing flavor.

A "green" or freshly made cheese lacks
in flavor and is rubbery ■ — more like the
pressed curd from which it comes.

A "ripe" cheese is that which has aged
and developed a full flavor and a rich,
mellow consistency.

Those cheeses known as pimiento, club,
pineapple, and sage cheese, are of the
Cheddar type and of distinctive shape or
flavor.

Roquefort cheese is made in Roque-
fort, France, of goats' milk, and is
ripened by a secret "moldy bread
process."

Swiss cheese is of a somewhat different
flavor, due doubtless to the presence of
micro-organisms, which are thought to be
the cause of the numerous holes that
perforate this food. It is claimed that
an expert can tell the porousness of a
Swiss cheese by the sound which it gives
when it is tapped.

Edam and Parmesan cheeses are of a
hard variety caused by pressing out all of
the water. For this reason they grate
well and, being of rich flavor, are desirable
for seasoning.

Neufchatel cheese is made from thick,
sour milk. It does not keep as the other
cheeses do, and so one must be careful to
purchase it fresh to have it at its best.

Guava

Guava is a fruit of pear-shape variety
and not much larger than an egg. It has
a light yellow skin and a soft, light yellow

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES

769

pulp. The flavor, when ripe, is sweet-
acid, and there is a faintly aromatic odor.
This is the choicest grade of guava.

The red guava is rounder in shape with
a darker and coarser pulp, more like the
apple. Guava fruit comes from a low-
growing tree which bears a white flower.
The flowers shed their petals and the
fruit develops much like the pear. The
leaves of the guava tree are oval and
downy to the touch.

This fruit grows in the East and West
Indies and in Mexico.

Guava jellies and jams and guava
cheese are among the delicacies made
from this fruit. The flavoring is dis-
tinctive and greatly prized by epicures.

The Olive

The green olive is said to be a relish;
the ripe olive, a food.

The ripe olive is bland of flavor be-
cause of the oil that is present in the
ripened fruit.

When olives are just ripe, they are very
bitter and acrid to the taste. It takes
from four to six weeks to pickle them
properly. This work used to be done by
hand, but is now taken care of mostly
by very clever machinery. Where once
the olives were stirred by hand, they are
now agitated by compressed air.

Truffles

Sometimes we see recipes that call for
truffles, and many people do not like to
confess that they do not know the origin
of the truffle.

These are little tubers that grow most
successfully when in their own wild
state, as they do not take kindly to culti-
vation. They reach their best in soil of a
limestone variety, which is light, moist,
well drained, and near woodland. A side
hill is favorable for them, as then the
drainage is right.

They grow quite deep below the
ground, if the climate is cooler, or nearer
the surface in milder climates.

They are really an underground fungi
and are met with mostly in Europe.

As has been said, they like the prox-
imity of trees, as they grow in the leaf
mold and in the soil where there are de-
caying roots.

They vary in size from a filbert nut to
a medium-sized potato. They are whole-
some and nutritious, have a pleasing
aromatic flavor, and a taste supposed to
give special relish.

The outside of the truffle is a grayish-
brown with a pebbled surface and odd
little protuberances. Being a fungi, the
inside is much like a puff-ball, and also of
a yellowish or brown color.

The different varieties are known as the
black or queen truffle and the Perigord
truffle.

Harvesting these truffles is difficult.
There are several methods of getting
them. Sometimes the earth is loosened
with a spade or pick, and then the tubers
are collected by hand.

The Perigord sows have an instinctive
faculty for locating the truffle beds.
Many of these animals are raised just for
the work they do in rooting. They are
trained to recognize the aromatic odor
of the ripe tuber, and to hunt for these.
They can be taught to unearth even a
single one, or to show where a number of
them are resting. A good Perigord sow
will often dig up as many as ten or twelve
pounds of truffles. Some dogs are used
for the same purpose.

Truffles are used in fine cooking and,
particularly, in the rich French pastries.

E. G. W.
* * *

A Way to Save Soap

A CERTAIN soap manufacturing
company made a hit a few years
ago with an advertising cartoon of a dirty
tramp penning a letter to the company,
to inform them that two years ago he had
washed with a cake of their soap, and that
since then he had used no other.

That is one way of saving soap, but it is
not a way to be recommended. Economy
does not consist in not using things, but

770

AMERICAN COOKERY

in using them in such a way as to get the
greatest value from them. There is a
way to do that with a cake of soap.

Literally carloads of soap have been
thrown away in the form of little unused
scraps that were left when the cake was
almost exhausted. It narrowed down
to a little slab, then broke into tiny bits
and was thrown away. Some have tried
remelting it into a form of soft soap for
dishwashing and laundering, but that
involves extra trouble, and besides there
are cheaper makes of soap to be had for
those purposes.

One can so manage as not to lose even
the least part of a cake of toilet or other
soap, and can do it in a very simple way.
The cake should not be allowed to become
entirely exhausted. Then, when it is
worn down to a fairly thin slab, it may be
pasted onto the side of a new cake, and
the two can be used together. The thin
slab pasted on the larger piece will soon
disappear altogether, and not an iota of
the substance will have failed of its pur-
pose.

At least, one cake must, of course, be
held in reserve. When the proper time
arrives, it can be unwrapped and dipped
in water. The thin slab of the used cake
should be stuck, while wet, against its
side. An hour or so to dry and the two
are thoroughly wedded into one.

This is economy in a small matter, but

economy in all kinds of matters pays in

these times. c. e. f.

* * *

Little Bits

UNIVERSALLY thrown away in
America — ■ the yellow legs, claws
and the head of a chicken are sold in
France for stews.

If there is not enough butter to scrape
from a plate, boiling water is poured on
the plate and it is drained over the soup
kettle.

One pear, one patty cake, divided into
three parts, serves as dessert for that
number of people, where in America,
three pears and possibly half a dozen

patty cakes would be considered essential.
These are not war-time economies —
only the little bits saved which enable a
French family to have a comfortable
income for old age.

Table Etiquette in England

The English say that the Americans do
not know how to use their "tools,"
meaning knives, forks and spoons.

When eating fish, the English woman
takes a forkin each hand, and with prongs
down tears the fish, removing the bones,
quite daintily.

Apples are eaten with a knife and fork.
One spears the apple, cuts it in halves,
and then in sections small enough for
the mouth. Oranges are supposed to be
eaten the same way, but are sometimes
refused, because they are too difficult
to handle.

Apricot sauce is served on a large, flat
dinner plate, and a dessert spoon and a
fork are used to transfer the sauce to the
mouth.

Instead of placing the knife and fork
parallel with each other, at the right side
of the plate, as we do; the English place
the two tools across the center and it
really makes it easier for the servant to
handle. w. f.

Vitamines Again

Vitamines in food are required in
quantities so minute that they cannot be
considered as sources of energy, and their
presence does not affect the number of
calories in the diet. In a varied diet con-
taining fresh fruits and vegetables, milk
and butter, vitamines are present in the
necessary proportion. But where the
diet consists chiefly of highly-prepared
and preserved foods there is danger of
vitamine deficiency, especially in the
case of children. Where children are of
necessity fed artificially on prepared
foods, the addition of a little fresh fruit
juice to the diet will be found a useful
safeguard. f. & c.

ADVERTISEMENTS

wKy is (risco

a more desirable
cooking fat?

Crisco is never sold in bulk. It
always comes in this sanitary,
dust-proof container, packed net
weight, in one pound and larger
packages. Accept nothing else.
Get it from your grocer.

Do Your Meals Cost Too Much?

In trying to give your family
variety in foods, do you spend
more than you have planned for
your meals? Then you will like
our new cook book, "Recipes for
Everyday," which gives 300 new
recipes for delicious, inexpensive
dishes — just the kind of food that
everyone likes, and that the cook
likes, too, because they are easy to
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Janet McKenzie Hill, founder of
the Boston Cooking School and
editor of "American Cookery."
Illustrated in color. Sent for only
10 cents postage. Address Depart-
ment A-5, The Procter 8b Gamble
Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.

— because it makes such tender, flaky pastry.

. — because it makes cakes which taste as if made
with butter, but at much less cost.

— because it fries without waste.

Crisco makes tender, flaky pastry because it is so
rich. It is simply choice vegetable oil, hardened by
a special process into pure, creamy white shorten-
ing, 100^ rich. It contains no salt, moisture,
adulterants or preservatives.

Crisco is delightful in cakes because it is so deli-
cate. It has no taste, no odor, no color. Make
two similar cakes, one with butter, the other with
Crisco, plus salt, (one level teaspoonful of salt for
every cupful of Crisco) and the cakes, when baked,
will look alike, taste alike, be alike, except that the
Crisco cake will have cost much the less.

Crisco makes deep frying economical because so
little is absorbed or cooked away in the frying
process. Almost all the Crisco remains in the
kettle after the frying is finished. This used Crisco
is good to use again and again, because it retains no
taste of anything that has been cooked in it. Not
a drop has to be wasted.

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
771

THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes,
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Query No. 4139. — "Will you let me have a
recipe for the popular French Pastries? Also
furnish a menu for a wedding Buffet Luncheon?"

Popular French Pastries

Sift, three times, one pound of the
finest pastry flour, and chop into it
three-eighths of a pound of fresh, un-
salted butter. If unsalted butter is not
procurable, the salt must be thoroughly
washed out of ordinary butter. Beat
well the yolk of one egg; mix with one-
half a cup of ice-water, and with this for
wetting work the flour into a stiff dough.
Roll out thin; brush over it as much of
three-quarters of a cup of unsalted butter
— barely melted, but not hot — as will
cover the surface; fold up the sheet of
pastry, roll thin again, brush over with
butter as before, and repeat this process
until all the butter is used up. Lastly,
roll out once more, and set in a very
cold place for twenty minutes before
baking.

Another recipe for the finest French
"leaf" pastry is more difficult to make,
and calls for both care and experience,
but the results will repay the pains taken.

French 'Leaf* Pastry

Measure and sift one full quart of fine
pastry flour upon the molding boar-d,
make a hole in the middle, and pour into
this the yolks of two eggs, well beaten,
mixed with one cup of cold water, and one
tablespoonful of softened butter. Work
these together with as little handling as

possible; form the dough into a ball, and
cover with a cloth. Meantime wash one
pound of butter until free from salt, and of
a waxy consistency. Press out all the
water possible, place the butter on a
lightly floured cloth, cover with another
floured cloth, and roll or pat it out into
a sheet one-half an inch thick. Roll
out the pastry dough on a floured board,
into a sheet of similar thickness, it should
be twice as large as the flattened-out
butter, and place the butter on one-half
of the paste, folding the other half over
it. Both butter and paste should be of
the same degree of softness. Roll the
paste again, fold in three, roll up like a
jelly-roll, and roll out again into a sheet.
This process must be repeated six times,
at intervals of fifteen or twenty min-
utes during which the paste is set into
the refrigerator. The surface is lightly
dusted with flour before each rolling and
folding. This pastry should be baked at
once, as it will not be so good if kept for
more than a very few minutes.

Wedding Buffet Luncheon

This may include a soup, bouillon, or
cocktail; one cold and one hot meat dish;
a salad; and either one or two sweet
dishes; with rolls, delicate sandwiches,
one or more hors d'ceuvres; cake, either
one or two kinds; and a choice of hot
beverages. Plan all the dishes so that
the use of knives will not be needed by
the guests, and have as many as possible
of the dishes cooked in individual por-

772

ADVERTISEMENTS

°$7hen cakes took hours to prepare

THE woman of today would
hold up her hands in horror
should a cake recipe casually in-
struct her to beat the ingredients
for two hours! Two hours! — not
counting all the getting ready and
baking! But this was no uncom-
mon matter in quaint old cook-
books of a century ago.

Baking powder, however, has
changed all that. And the latest
development in the history of

leavening agents is Ryzon, the
Perfect Baking Powder. Now
light, delicate cakes, quickly and
easily prepared, are no longer
dependent upon hours of beating.

Scientific study and experi-
menting on the part of experts —
and the availability of accurate,
reliable ingredients such as
Ryzon — are doing wonders in
raising the standard of all baking. s

Ryzon is packed in full 16 ounce pounds — also 35c and 20c
Packages. The new Ryzon Baking Book (original price $1.00),
containing 250 practical recipes, wM be mailed, postpaid upon
receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except in Canada.

GENERALCHEMICALCOl

FOOD DEPARTMENT
NEW YORK

THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER

The Ryzon
level measure

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

773

774

AMERICAN COOKERY

tions. The following menu is merely
suggestive.

Cream Tomato Soup in Cups Saltines

Supreme of Sweetbreads in Dariole Molds

Olives Salted Pecans

French Rolls

Chicken in Aspic, on Lettuce

Green Mayonnaise

Rolled Nut Sandwiches

Peach Bavaroise

Almond Wafers Small Frosted Cakes

Hot Coffee, Tea, Chocolate

Query No. 4140. — "I wish you would tell
me how to make Coffee, two or three cups,
both with a percolator and without. I want to
be able to make really Good Coffee."

How to Make Good Coffee

The following is our favorite way of
making good boiled coffee. For rather
strong coffee measure one-fifth as much
coffee as cold water, mix with the dry
coffee one egg-shell or a little white of
egg> with cold water enough thoroughly
to moisten the coffee. Add the rest of
the cold water, and bring very slowly to a
boil; allow to boil two or three minutes,
then pour in a little very cold water to
promote settling, and set the pot for five
minutes on the back of the stove to settle.
The coffee can then be poured off from
the grounds into a hot pot, or it can be
served from the pot in which it was made.

As for the percolator coffee, there are
so many different styles of percolators,
and adapted to so many different kinds of
fuel — ■ gas, electricity, etc. — that the
methods of making coffee vary slightly
according to the difference in the make of
the percolator. Here we can only tell
you to follow the printed directions. ^

Be sure that you buy a good brand of
coffee, for no skill in the making will
bring a good cup of coffee from a poor
grade of the dry coffee.

Query No. 4141. — "Could you give me
information as to the process -of Corning Beef, of
Pickling Pork, and of making Spiced Beef? Also
I should like to know how Marshmallow is
made?"

To Corn Beef

Rub into the surface of the beef dry

dairy salt, mixed with one-tenth part of
saltpeter. This should be rubbed in
until the surface will moisten no more of
the salt. Repeat the process s after
twenty-four* hours, and again put away
for a day. Prepare a brine by boiling
together for ten minutes five gallons of
water, eight pounds of salt, one pound
and one-half of sugar, and four ounces of
saltpeter. Let this grow quite cold, and
immerse the beef. If the meat has been
previously well rubbed with salt, this
brine will keep well. A stronger pickle
may be needed in warm weather, and
one-half more salt may then be used.

To Pickle Pork

Pork should be pickled one day after
butchering, if this is possible. To pickle
fifty pounds of pork, boil together for
thirty minutes three gallons of water,
five pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar,
and three ounces of saltpeter, previously
dissolved in a little hot water. Pour
this, when cold, over the pork in a barrel.
It can be taken out and smoked at the
end of two or three weeks, or if you do
not choose to smoke the pork, each piece
should be taken out, rubbed well with
drv salt, and returned to the barrel.

Spiced Beef

The round or the rump is the best part
for spicing. For twenty pounds of beef
there will be needed three-fourths a
pound of salt, one-fourth a pound of
ground black pepper, three or four
ounces of allspice, one ounce of cloves,
and one of cinnamon, all ground. Mix
these with one-half a pound of brown
sugar and two ounces of saltpeter, and
rub the mixture all over the surface of
the meat, rubbing every smallest part,
and using all the energy at your command.
This should be done every day for, at
least, two, and better, three weeks. The
meat is then ready to cook. For this it
should be fitted into a kettle just large
enough to hold it, with a cup of water or
stock poured over it, and the upper sur-
face then covered with a thick layer of

ADVERTISEMENTS

ex r ^Hblv Canned Goodwill help a
Woman with Tier Greatest ^Problem

Three meals a day
— a thousand a yeav

•v — v

DO you feel like, "just giving up"
sometimes when trying to tempt the
appetites of that family of yours?

Haven't you stood in the middle of your
kitchen or pantry many a time, wonder-
ing what you would "get" for the next
meal?

But suppose that the next time you look
around your pantry for inspiration, you
discover a variety of canned foods on
the shelves — real foods that give you sur-
prising suggestions for tempting meals!

Canned Food Variety
Solves your Meal Problems

The variety of canned foods is won-
derful, and the number of things that can
be made with such foods is still more won-
derful. You need not worrv about va-

riety to your meals if you are using canned
foods as freely as you can use them.

You need not worry that meals won't ,
look tempting, taste delicious and satisfy
fickle appetites.

Greatest Allies a Woman can Have

With plenty of canned foods on hand
in full variety of fruit, vegetable, fish and
meats, to say nothing of soups and milk,
a woman is more resourceful than her
family would have believed possible.

Many a Surprise in store for
your Family

It is almost like travelling all over the
country and eating the choice foods of
each State of the Union when you use
canned foods in all the variety of kinds
and "dishes."

National Canners Association, Washington, D,. C.

A nation-wide organization formed in 1907, consisting of producers of all varieties of
hermetically sealed canned foods which have been sterilized by heat. It neither pro-
duces, buys, nor sells. Its purpose is to assure for the mutual benefit of the industry and
the public, the best canned foods that scientific knowledge and human skill can produce

on Your

— *?*<»»_,

Sftftsi^i;

;M&**.

~*3$6*feS

: 19t0 National Cannert Association

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

77S

AMERICAN COOKERY

chopped suet. Over this is fitted a
crust of baking powder biscuit dough, the
kettle is covered, and the meat baked for
five or six hours at an even, moderate
temperature. Let cool in the kettle,
then remove, scrape off the suet, and
serve cold in thin slices.

Marshmallow Paste I

Soak three-fourths a pound of gum
arabic in a pint of water; heat and dissolve
this over hot water; add one cup and
one-half of sugar and a pinch of cream of
tartar, and boil the whole until the mix-
ture will form a rather hard ball when a
spoonful is dropped into cold water, or
until the sugar thermometer registers
about 245° F. To the beaten whites of
four eggs add one-half a cup of sugar,
beat well together, pour on these the gum
and sugar syrup and beat as for- cake
frosting until white and firm. Run
into cornstarch molds, made by making

Baby Midget

HOSE SUPPORTER

Silk, 15 cents; Lisle, 10 cents

SOLD EVERYWHERH OR SENT POSTPAID
GEORGE FROST CO., MAKERS, BOSTON

depressions in a pan filled to the depth o:
an inch or more with cornstarch, oi
run out into flat cakes as in No. II.

Marshmallow Paste II

Hydrate one-half package of gelatine
in three-eighths a cup of cold water.
Dissolve two cups of sugar in three-'
fourths a cup of boiling water over
gentle heat; add a pinch of cream of
tartar, and dissolve the softened gelatine
in this; add the stiffly-beaten whites of
two eggs, and beat with the utmost vigor
until it is so stiff you cannot beat any
longer. Spread the mixture in a shallow
tin dusted with cornstarch, and when
cold and firm turn out on a platter or[
slab sifted over with confectioner's sugar
and cornstarch mixed in equal parts.
Cut into shapes with a fancy cutter, or
into rounds or squares.

Query No. 4142. — "What is the^quickest
way to cook peas and beans in hard water at a
rather high altitude? To what extent may
brown sugar and corn syrup be used in canning
fruit and in making jams? Give several good
recipes for drop cookies, including chocolate
cookies. Give a recipe for a light cake, using
corn syrup instead of sugar. What should be
used in washing milk pail and separator to re-
move the grease, which will not make the cloth
slimy? Are there any reliable home dyes that
will not rot the goods?"

To Cook Peas and Beans Quickly
in Hard Water at High Altitude

Have you heard of the steam pressure
cookers? By the use of one of these you
can cook anything in a very short time at
no-matter-what altitude. Write to the
Home Economics Department of your
nearest University for information as to
where you may procure one, the cost, etc.
By soaking the peas and beans overnight
in rain water, and cooking them in a very
tight-lidded kettle, you may save a little
time. Why not save rainwater for cook-
ing such things as these?

Brown Sugar and Corn Syrup in
Canning

It is entirely practicable to use either
brown sugar or corn syrup in canning

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

776

ADVERTISEMENTS

What Food Costs —

About 60c a Day for a Man

It costs about 60 cents a day to feed a man.

To feed a family of five, on the average, costs about $610 yearly. The average workingman
spends about 43 per cent of his earnings on food.

Food costs have soared about 90 per cent in four years.

MUST HAVE 12,000 CALORIES DAILY

A family of five, including three young folks, Those 12,000 calories in some foods cost many

needs some 12,000 calories daily. The average times as much as in others. So this food ques-
family does not get that, and is underfed. tion is enormously important.

SAVE 90 PER CENT ON BREAKFASTS

Quaker Oats supplies the supreme breakfast. Note the comparisons with other necessary

It is rich in calories of energy — 1810 per pound.
It is rich in minerals, rich in protein. It forms
almost the ideal food in balance and complete-
ness.

Yet it costs one cent a large dish. It costs 5£
cents per 1000 calories. It costs one-tenth what
meats, eggs and fish cost, on the average, for
the same calory nutrition.

foods, based on prices at this writing. Mark
what it saves on a breakfast for five, compared
with other dishes.

See how much you can save on breakfasts by serving
Quaker Oats. Your folks will be better fed. The costlier
foods, which are also needed, can be served at dinner, and
the breakfast saving will help cut the cost.

Proper nutrition and proper economy call on housewives
to consider these things.

Breakfast Costs

Dish of Quaker Oats .... lc

Two Eggs 10c

Bacon and Eggs 16c

One Chop 12c

Serving of Fish 8c

15c and 35c per package

Except in the Far West and South

Packed in Sealed Round Packages with

Removable Cover

World-Famed for Flavor

3318

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

777

AMERICAN COOKERY

t^r--

Have Some Junket

How good it is! And how
wholesome!

The simple use of the little
Junket Tablet transforms
milk, as if by magic, into a
tempting, delicious dish fit
"to set before the king."

MADE with MILK,
should be eaten often, especially
by children, because it is simply
milk in a more easily digestible
form — and more enjoyable to
the taste.

Serve it both as a food and as a
dessert. And use
the Junket
Tablet for mak-
ing the finest ice
cream you ever
tasted.

Nesnah —

the

Powdered

Junket

is the same as Junket
Tablets, except it is
in powdered form
and already sweet-
ened and flavored.
It conies in 6 pure
flavors, delicious in
taste and appearance.
Simply add milk.

The Junket Folks
Little Falls, N. Y.

Canadian Factory:

Chr. Hansen's

Canadian Laboratory

Toronto, Ont.

i3*r

fruit or making jams. Some extra care
has to be used to ensure complete steri-
lization of the fruit, for both the brown
sugar and the corn syrup form an easier
medium for the growth of germs than
does pure white sugar. Extra care in
washing and sterilizing jars, rubbers, and
covers, extra care in selecting fruit free
from spots of decay, extra care in the
boiling of both fruit and syrup, should
result in success.

Drop Cookies

The following may be called a founda-
tion mixture for drop cookies, from which
a great variety may be made by the use of
different ingredients. Melt one-third a
cup of shortening, and mix with it one-
half a cup of corn syrup, or sugar, or
molasses. Add one beaten egg. Stir
into the mixture two cups and one-half
of flour, sifted with one teaspoonful of
baking powder and one-half a teaspoonful,
each, of salt and baking soda.

On this foundation may be built Spice
Cookies, by adding one teaspoonful,
each, of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.

Fruit or Nut Cookies may be made by
adding one cup of either fruit or nuts.
Or fruit, nuts, and spices may be used in
the same recipe.

Oatmeal Cookies call for the substitu-
tion of three-fourths a cup of rolled oats
for three-fourths a cup of the flour. To
these, too, nuts and fruit may be added.

For Chocolate Cookies a little melted
chocolate (one ounce) may be added,
and the amount of sweetening in the
foundation mixture doubled. Or the
following recipe may be used.

Chocolate Cookies

Mix with two well-beaten eggs one
cup of sugar or syrup, and two squares of
chocolate, shaved into small pieces, and
melted over hot water. Add three-
fourths a cup of flour, mixed with one-
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Mix all
well, take up by spoonfuls and place on
greased and floured tin, flatten out rather
thin, and bake in a moderate oven.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

778

ADVERTISEMENTS

HEBE

Jhe new food product
for modern cooking-
cuts living costs an<
enriches your food

Use Hebe

for

Creamed Potatoes

Scalloped Potatoes

Potatoes Delmonico

Mashed Potatoes

Creamed Celery

Creamed Beans

Creamed Onions

Scalloped Tomatoes

Creamed Peas

Creamed Spinach
and all your cream sauces

Serve Hebe with

Coffee and Tea

and in Coco*

«tT,

Cream your Vegetables
with Hebe

• *rOG«TE»fs'lLB.AV0ffiW?0IS

C!>*W8K 7.8% VKETftBU WT

«.**> TOTAL fflUOS

j*E HEBE COMPAM*

J^"*1** CKICAGO- SEATTLE

USE more creamed vegetables
in your menus. Both fresh
and canned vegetables are made
more palatable and far more nutri-
tious when creamed with Hebe.

Use Hebe for all your cream
sauces. It makes them smooth
and rich. It improves the flavor
of all dishes in which it is used.

The economy of Hebe is not
confined to creamed vegetables
and meats — you will use Hebe in
a thousand ways in your cooking.
For bread and cakes, doughnuts,
puddings and custards, omelets,
salad-dressings, cake frosting,
you will find Hebe a wonderful

convenience — an aid to better
richer and more palatable foods.

The high nutritive quality oi
Hebe is in its balanced combina-
tion— simply pare skimmed milk
evaporated to double strength
enriched with cocoanut fat. In
the hermetically sealed can it
retains its purity and wholesome-
ness guarded so carefully in the
process of manufacture.

Order Hebe from your grocer.
Buy a half dozen cans at a time
for you will want a plentiful sup-
ply when you have discovered
its economy and goodness. And
Hebe will keep.

Let us send you the Hebe Book of Recipes. Write for it today. Address
the Home Economy Department, 2515 Consumers Building, Chicago

Chicago

THE HEBE COMPANY

Seattle

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

779

AMERICAN COOKERY

Crawford.

The new Victory Crawford is

only forty -three inches

from end to end

Yet this wonderful little range, with every
inch of space efficiently utilized, offers you
the convenience of a gas stove with five top
burners, two gas ovens and a broiler — and a
coal range with four griddles and a roomy oven.

Oven space? Yes — six and a half square feet,
or thirteen square feet when you use the racks.

And it's the only range on the market which
permits the use of a gas broiler and three
ovens at the same time.

Handsome, handy, easy to keep clean, the
Victory Crawford — with its exclusive up-to-
date features — is the range you will want to
own when you see it — at your dealer's.

Sold by Leading Dealers

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO.

BOSTON, U. S. A.

Makers of Highest Quality Ranges
Furnaces and Boilers

ilSk

The Silver Lining

Coasting

An officer on board a warship was
drilling his men.

"I want every man to lie on his back,
put his legs in the air and move them as if
he were riding a bicycle," he explained.
"Now commence."

After a short effort, one of the men
stopped.

"Why have you stopped, Murphy?"
asked the officer.

"If ye plaze, sir," was the answer,
"Oi'm coasting."

— Pittsburgh Chronicle-Telegraph.

Some years ago a party of prospectors
were looking for minerals in the Ozark
Mountains of southeastern Missouri. It
was during the month of February, and
the prospectors encountered a period of
very bad weather, varying from rain to
snow and sleet and back again to rain.
One day, when discussing the weather in
the presence of Uncle Bill Hunter, a
native Ozarkian, one of the party in-
quired if the weather would not change
soon.

"Oh, yes, hit'll change, all right,"
replied Uncle Bill. "All the gosh-durned
weather in the United States comes here
to change."

"Rastus," said Colonel Sparks, "they
tell me that fine dog of yours was run
over and killed while you were in church
this morning."

"Yes, sah, he wuz, sah. But I ain't
worryin' none about it. Mah dawg, sah,
wuz fully p'pared to die."

"How's that, Rastus?"

"Well, sah, you see, sah, jest before
gittin' hisse'f killed he snuck into de back
room of ouah chu'ch and done et up all
de communion cake. He wuz fully
p'pared!"

His Disposition

An army mule at one of the canton-
ments "went west." The private who

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

780

ADVERTISEMENTS

i ANNING and Preserving will take
their place among the most impor-
tant household duties this year.
It is a privilege as well as a pleasure for
the housewife who uses a Wagner Cast
Aluminum Kettle in her canning. This Kettle is
sanitary, durable, and not affected by acids.
There are no rivets to catch dirt or pull out. No danger from
chips or grit.

Wagner Kettles are cast in just the right thickness to safeguard
against burning or scorching. Therefore you get all the real
flavor of fruits or vegetables. Yet they are so light you like to
handle them and there is no wear out to them.

PRESERVING KETTLES

From Generation to Generation

There is a Wagner Kettle for every need. They are made in eleven sizes,
from 2 quart to 24 quart and may be had with or without cover. They are
invaluable for general cooking purposes at all seasons of the year.
There is a Wagner Cast Aluminum Cooking Utensil for every purpose. All
are cast in moulds — not stamped. Seamless and jointless, they retain their
shape without warping or cracking.

Write today for catalog and leaflets descriptive of Wagner Ware

SPECIAL OFFER

We will send postpaid for 10c a copy of our interesting and valuable book,
' The Art of Canning and Preserving", by Kate Brew Vaughn, the well
known Domestic Science Expert. This book should be in the hands of
every housewife. Use coupon below.

THE WAGNER MFG. CO., Dept 74 Sidney. Ohio

The Wagner Mfg. Co., Dept. 000, Sidney, O.
Gentlemen:

Enclosed find 10c. Please send postpaid your hou3e-
wife's book, "The Art of Canning and Preserving"

Name

Street or Rural Route „ _

City or Town State.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

781

AMERICAN COOKERY

SOUPS and GRAVY without

Vegeione

r*At>r MAt>x &£C u.s.pat. orr.

are'like dinner without potatoes. To introduce and
until distribution is established we will mail three 4
oz. tins (retail price $1.50,) for $1.00. You are not
taking a chance, for your money will be refunded if
you do not like VEGETONE.

S?A DELICIOUS MEATLESS GRAVY

Bring pint of water to a boil in pan, add heaping teaspoonful of
Crisco, or other fat, dissolve well rounded teaspoonful of VEG-
ETONE, stir in flour to thicken and allow to boil for few min-
utes. Makes rich, tasty, brown gravy.

BISHOP-GIFFORD CO., Inc. Baldwin, L. I., N. Y.

Send TODAY «^/
for Special A M \*T*—+i

Factory Price

on 12,500

Rapids!

/Be one of the first
12,500 women to
write me. Get my new'
special rock - bottom
price on a Rapid. I've
made these special of-
fers before like the
department stores do.
The big difference is you
get the lowest factory-to-kitchen price
from me. Here's your chance to save money. Aluminum lined
throughout — full set high-grade aluminum utensils with each
cooker. 80 days' free trial before you decide. Saves 2-3 to
3-4 fuel costs, 1-2 the work. But you must write soon! Get ray-
big Home Science Book Free — gives you all the details of my
low price offer. Send post card NOW. Wm. Campbell, Pres.
The Wm. Campbell Co., Dept. 173 , Detroit, Mich.

Eat More Bread

Eat plenty of bread made with

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST

DIETITIANS WANTED FOR

HOSPITAL POSITIONS

EVERYWHERE

Many excellent positions now open
for Dietitians in all parts of the United
States. If interested in securing a
Hospital position anywhere, send for
free book. Write today for it.

AZNOE'S CENTRAL REGISTRY FOR
NURSES

30 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago

had charge of the last rites had to fill out
the regulation form, and came across the
suggestion, "Disposition of carcass."

After a moment's thought Sammie
wrote on the blank line:

"Mean and deceitful."

— Dallas Holland's Magazine.

Music teacher
"Why don't you
mean rest!"

to pupil at
stop ? Those

piano:
marks

What's the use of restin'? Let's get
through with it." — Judge.

Protection for Democrats

Corporal: "What's all dis heah league
ob nations?"

Slim: "Why, man, dat's an idea ob Mr.
Wilson's to make it safe fo' a Democrat to
go anywhere." — Life.

The Idealist: "What a subject for a
poem! The wild waves beating them-
selves into creamy foam on the rocks!"

The Realist: "Never mind about a
poem — what an advertisement for my
shaving soap!" — Passing Show.

"Father, I have decided to be a mis-
sionary. I want to do something big and
worth while, to serve where material
reward is of little consequence." "Then
why not be a school teacher in your home
town?" — New York Evening Post.

Points on Good Cooking

Cookery in its full meaning is a science
as well as a profession, and as such it is a
potent civilizing factor. As a profession
it cannot be learnt by mere theoretical
studies, for it requires constant practice
and experience.

Good cooking is the greatest boon to
mankind, and adds considerably to the
comfort of any home; bad cooking, on the
other hand, is not only wasteful, but also
the cause of discontent and unhappiness,
and thus nothing short of an insult to
nature.

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
782

ADVERTISEMENTS

For Tempting
Cakes and Cookies

Sweeten and flavor them with
Uncle John's Syrup. It saves
sugar and gives them "the real
flavor from the maple grove."

Uncle John's Syrup

is a delicious blend of pure cane
and maple sugars with a tempting
"taste" that makes it best for
every table and cooking purpose.
Ask your grocer.

NEW ENGLAND MAPLE SYRUP CO.

WINTER HILL, BOSTON, MASS.

Write for Free Copy Uncle John's Recipes — a col-
lection of tested recipes you'll like!

Cream Whipping Made
Easy and Inexpensive

^REMO-yESCO

Whips Thin Cream

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk

or Top of the Milk Bottle

It whips up as easily as heavy cream
fluid retains its stiffness

Every caterer and housekeeper
wants CREMO-VESCO.

Send for a bottle today.

Housekeeper's size, 1 |oz. , .30 prepaid
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00

(With full directions.)

Cremo-Vesco Company

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y.

PURITY!

In Flavoring Extracts
is demanded by the
best cooks.

The materials for

Brand

EXTRACTS

are selected and prepared under most rigid
inspection. These Extracts are untouched by
human hands from the moment of manufac-
ture until YOU open the package. All original
strength and true-flavor is preserved.

BEE-BRAND Extracts, because of their great
Purity, last longer — a little does a lot!

Cookerv experts prefer BEE-BRAND Extracts
as the PUREST, BEST and MOST ECONOMI-
CAL good-cooking aids on the market.

Insist on BEE-BRAND Spices, Flavoring
Extracts, Mayonnaise Dreising, Green Seal Salad
Dressing, Green Seal Mustard Dressing, Banquet
Tea, etc. Pure, wholesome, and delicious!

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, MA

Importers and Manufacturers

(Packers of the Famous BANQUET TEA)

Write for our FREE BOOKLETS giving interesting facts
concerning spices, teas and flavoring extracts. The BEE
BRAND Manual of Cookery wi! be sent on receipt of 50
cents in cash or stamps.

Buy advertised Good? — Do not accept substitutes

733

AMERICAN COOKERY

Price's

Vanilla

"Look for the little Tropikid on the
label" — it stands for the pure juice of
finest vanilla beans, aged in wood to
bring out the full flavor. Price's is
just right in strength. For cakes,
puddings, candies, custards, etc.

Price

Flavoring

Extract Co.

In Business

67 Years

Chicago
U.S.A.

Trade Murk Registered.

Gluten Flour

40% GLUTEN

Guaranteed to comply in all respecta Co

Standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of

Agriculture.

Manufactured b;

FARWELL & SHINES

Wntertown. N. Y.

2*V

=Domestic Science

Home-study Courses

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc.

"The Profession of Home-making." 100
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each.

American School of Home Economics
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111.

SIBVICf TABLE WACOM

rr stRvLs *ou« homl and

SAVLS YOUR TIME. THAT
15 PRACTICAL ECONOMY

Large Broad Wide Table
Top — Removable Glass
Service Tray — Double
Drawer — Double
Handles— Large Deep
Undershelves — "Scien-
tifically Silent" Rubber
Tired Swivel Wheels.

A high grade piece of furni-
ture surpassing anything yet at-
tempted for general utility.
ease of action, and absolute
noiselessnesa. WRITE NOW
for a Descriptive Pamphlet
and Dealers Name. *■ >

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO.

ir * 504J Cwrard Bids. Chicago, III.

The foundation of good cookery con-
sists in so preparing raw materials as to
render them tender in substance without
wasting those juices which constitute
their true nourishment and flavor. The
latter quality is most necessary to the
enjoyment of our food. The preparatory
process is the essential basis of all good
cooking. iQ

One great secret of success lies in a
judicious use of materials, and, with but
few exceptions, in the application of a
moderate degree of heat. Most food
while cooking requires but gentle sim-
mering, not the furious boiling which
results in rendering meat tough, indiges-
tible and tasteless.

It is not wise, even in the preparation
of simple dishes, to trust to the memory
or the eye alone. The various ingre-
dients should be weighed and measured,
and then carefully and systematically
prepared and cooked. Recipes proved
by experience to be serviceable should
always be scrupulously followed.

The world, and especially this country,
is blest with a great variety of good
foods, and by acquiring the necessary
knowledge of preparing and cooking
them there should be no difficulty in
having well-cooked, satisfying and whole-
some food for everybody without waste
or extravagance.

All food, no matter how simple, should
be well cooked, and placed on the table
with taste and daintiness. Every effort
should be made to see that the cooked
dishes are made presentable, so that they
please the eye as well as the palate.

A dish, even if well cooked, which is
badly dished, offends the eye and has a
tendency to mar the pleasure of the con-

sumer.

— Food and Cookery.

ANGLEFOO

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer

The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says in the

Bulletin : Special pains should be taken

to prevent children from

drinking poisoned baites

and poisoned fliesdropping

into foods or drinks.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

784

ADVERTISEMENTS

One of the leading canning
demonstrators, who was
among the first in the field
when the Government began
to teach "cold pack" canning,
said to us recently:

"We could never have carried out our
early canning programs in the face of
all the difficulties that confronted us
without GOOD LUCK rubbers. The
rubber ring was the one item of
equipment universally poor in qual-
ity. The GOOD LUCK was the one
ring we could always rely upon."

GOOD <§) LUCK

RED JAR RINGS

have made "Cold Pack" canning safe

Twelve years ago we made the first GOOD LUCK rubbers. The step was largely an
experiment. Jar ring standards were very low. We wanted to see what the public
reaction would be on a rubber far above the prevailing quality.

We showed them to the trade. They were pronounced too good — too high in
price — no demand for such good rings. Nevertheless, we began to make them and
some were sold. We believed in them, and believed in their future.

Then came the "cold pack" process. You know the rest. Everywhere house-
keepers began demanding better and better rubbers — and then the GOOD LUCK
ring came into its own.

GOOD LUCK rubbers have made home canning
safe. They have eliminated the biggest risk
from the "cold pack" process because they can
be boiled for three, four or five hours as the case
requires without "bulging" or "blowing out"
— and they will keep contents of jars sealed air
tight without shrinking or cracking for years and
years — almost indefinitely.

Only recently a case was called to our attention
where a jar of mustard pickles containing acid
(vinegar) and oil, two natural enemies of rubber,
was opened after being sealed for eleven years
with a GOOD LUCK ring (one of the first ever
made) and the contents found as fresh and
piquant as the day they were sealed in the jar.

GOOD LUCK rubbers are standard equipment on Atlas E-Z Seal and other fruit jars

13c per dozen — 2 dozen for 25c

Send 2c stamp for our booklet, "Cold Pack Canning." If your grocer doesn't keep GOOD
LUCK rubbers, send 13c for sample dozen or 25c for 2 dozen to be mailed with the book

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE AND RUBBER CO., 27 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

785

AMERICAN COOKERY

IS RICH

and just a few drops (follow direc-
tions carefully) are enough to
impart that wonderfully good old-
fashioned maple taste to

— Syrup
— Cakes
— Pies
— Frostings
— Desserts

- — Puddings
— Sauces
— Candies
— Ice Cream
— Sundaes

— Pastry fillings

Also savors and seasons Meats,
Soups, Dressings, Vegetables.

MAPLEINE

Instantly makes delicious syrup

For use with hot cakes, corn bread, muffins,
etc.

2 cups sugar, 1 cup water and half teaspoon-
ful of Mapleine makes 1 pint of syrup.

I And for corn syrup flavoring or for flavor-
• ing the many cane syrups grocers sell,
Mapleine is remarkable.

Mapleine contains no maple sugar, syrup,
nor sap, but in sweets produces a taste
similar to Maple. Grocers sell Mapleine.

2 oz. bottle 35c; Canada 50c.

CRESCENT MFG.

CO.
323 Occidental Ave.
Seattle, Wash, a

**sSi

^P^>^^

MAPLEINE

*7Aq Go(d<>n7fcivor

4c stamp and trade*
!mark from Mapleine
carton will bring the I
Mapleine Cook Book of
200 recipes,
incl u d i ng
many des-
serts.

TEN-CENT MEALS

$2.00 per week
per person : 42
meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses.

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago

GOSSOM'S CREAM SOUPS

In Powdered Form

Split pea, Green pea, Lima, Celery, Black bean, Clam
Chowder, Onion and (Mushroom 25c.)

Quickly and Easily Prepared
Just add water and boil 15 minutes. One package makes 3

f)ints of pure, wholesome and delicious soup. Price 15c at
eading grocers, or sample sent prepaid on receipt of 20c in
stamps or coin.

Also "GOSSOM'S "QUICK-MADE" FUDGE

will give you a delightful surprise. So easy. A 50c pkg.
makes over a pound of the most exquisite fudge.

Manufactured by
B. F. Gossom, 692 Washington St., Brookiine, 46, Mass.

OSBORN SYSTEM

EbbtiClalte

8 Inches Square, 5 Inches High

Would you like to be the best cake

'maker in your club ortown? I teach you to

make the most delicious Angel Food Cake,

and many other kinds. I will teach you to

make the same cakes that I make and

Sell for S3.0O a Loaf— Profit, $2.00
If you are a good cake maker, I' 11 make you
a better one. Mrs. Lita Hannah, Penna.,
says: *'I have made nine different kinds of
cake by the Osborn System and they are
wonderful. I made good cakes before but
they are so much better since I learnedthe
Osborn Cake Making System
My methods are original; they never
fail. They are easy to learn. You make
a perfect cake the very firsttime. I have taught
thousandsofwomentomakebettercakesacan
teach you. Write me today. Particulars* KJUii.

MRS. GRACE OSBORN
Dept. L-5 T5av City, Michigan

USED

DAILY IN A

MILLION

HOMES

Colburn's

^- ® Red Label

Spices

The A.Colburn Co.,
Philadelphia,U.SA

ROBERTS

Lightning Mixer
Beats Everything

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes
malted milk and all drinks.

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy
to clean. Most necessary household
article. Used by 200,000 housewives.

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT

If your dealer does not carry this, we will
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c.
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c.
Recipe book free with mixer.

NATIONAL CO. 165 Oliver st„ boston, mass.

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
786

ADVERTISEMENTS

JL.^

7Urt€

The Things You Throw Away

THE most economical housekeeper sometimes throws away small amounts of food — not through
any lack of thrift, but simply because she does not know what to do with the little bit left over,
even if it were saved. Take stale bread, for instance. Many housekeepers would be glad to know
that, when toasted, breadcrumbs (either white or brown) or cake or cookie crumbs will give the same
effect, when combined in a dessert made with Knox Sparkling Gelatine, as ground nuts — which
are rather expensive and often hard to procure.

The following delicious nut-like dessert, which I have worked out, may be molded in any china
or glass dish or regular mold, and served either with milk or cream as a dessert, or on lettuce with
salad dressing as a salad.

BANANA WHIP

H cupful sugar or syrup

3^ cupful chopped nuts or

J^ cupful of crumbed toasted white or graham bread ;
cake or cookie crumbs

l/2 envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine
}/i cupful cold water

4 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice

1 cupful of boiling water

1 cupful of banana pulp (about 2 bananas)

Soak the gelatine in cold water for five minutes; add the sugar or syrup to the boiling water, boil for one minute
and add to the softened gelatine. Cool. Add the lemon juice to the banana pulp and mash until blended. Beat the
gelatine mixture until it is frothy and of about the thickness of whipped cream. Add the banana pulp. Whip until blended.
Add the nuts, or crumbs, and pour into wet mold or individual dishes. Chill. Serve with milk or cream, or on lettuce
with salad dressing.

Not only will Knox Gelatine help you to make unusually attractive dishes from things you might
otherwise throw away, but being unflavored, it blends with leftover vegetables, fish or meat to make
delightful fish or vegetable salads or meat loaves.

Because of its superior quality, and greater variety of uses, as well as its economy, Knox Gelatine
has become a favorite — for it goes four times as far as the flavored packages. One package of
Knox will make twenty-four individual servings, or four desserts or salads, for a family of six, for
four different meals while ready-prepared packages serve for only one meal, and make only six
servings. That is why experts call Knox the "4-to-l" Gelatine.

SPECIAL HOME SERVICE

If you are a busy housekeeper and would like other de-
licious, economical, easily made, time-saving desserts or salads,
write me for my recipe books, "Dainty Desserts" and "Food
Economy," which I will send you il you will enclose a 2 cent
stamp and mention the name of your grocer.

Any domestic science teacher can have sufficient gelatine
for her class, if she will write me on school stationery, stating
quantity and when needed.

Wherever a recipe calls for Gelatine — it means "KNOX"
MRS. CHARLES B. KNOX

nll£

KNOX GELATINE

107 Knox Avenue, Johnstown, N. Y.

6, «

GElatiNE

MCM(t ST

I CXNUES B JUNXGOATmr CtaC

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

787

AMERICAN COOKERY

Outside Icing
Convenience

and 26 other
Herrick fea-
tures described
in free book.

as the TtesorfMnds

But cold as the water that trickles from
the oasis spring is the air in the Herrick
Refrigerator. Both qualities are neces-
sary to perfect refrigeration and both are
found within the insulated walls of the
prize-winning Herrick.

The Herrick air currents sweep up and
down in a perpetual, freshening activity
that keeps walls and shelves constantly
dry. No spot of moisture can remain to
touch or taint the food.

Write for name of nearest Herric\ dealer

HERRICK REFRIGERATOR COMPANY

205 River Street, Waterloo, Iowa

Don't Sag "lee Box1) say

DRY

AIR

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

788

ADVERTISEMENTS

EJQG

The thin patented
perforated blade is
the secret of the
wonderful Dunlap
results. It vibrates
as it whirls, cutting
the cream into mil-
lions of globules.

Whips cream in 30 seconds;
beats egg in one minute;
mixes perfect Mayonnaise in
4 minutes; whips evaporated
milk; even whips cream off
the top of the milk bottle, or
regular coffee cream.

Everybody loves shortcake and whipped cream

— and it's easy to have it with the help of the

punlap

Cre am "Whip

Now for real shortcake — with strawberries, raspberries, peaches,
loganberries in season. How everybody loves shortcake! But
how a woman dreads whipping cream — until she gets a Dunlap
Cream Whip. It becomes a joy then. A few turns of the handle
and the cream is billowy and thick.

Most Hardware and Department Stores Carry the DUNLAP

If yours doesn't, send dealer's name and we will
supply you by mail, postpaid, at prices below.

No. 266 — Dunlap Silver Blade
Cream Whip; earthenware bowl;
natural wood handle. The model
that built the Dunlap reputation.

$1.25

(Western States $1.50)

No. 300 — Dunlap De Luxe
pictured: white enamel handles;
hang-up ring; brown and white
casserole bowl; in special gift pack-
age $2.50

(Western States $2.75)

CASEY HUDSON COMPANY, 363 E. Ohio St., Chicago, 111.

•nJ

D [=J!

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

789

AMERICAN COOKERY

AlwaajsWc
This EMCO KiIcIigiiBlc

:kag<

THIS PACKAGE CONTAINS

50 EMCO Wooden Plates 2500 EMCO Toothpicks

60 EMCO Clothespins 12 EMCO Handy Wooden Dishes

ALL FOR $1.00 POSTPAID

Use the EMCO Plates for picnics and for lunches in the home. They are made
of genuine sugar maple. They are strong and sanitary.

EMCO Toothpicks and Clothespins represent the highest development of these
familiar items.

EMCO Handy Dishes save china and labor. Store left-overs in them.

Send a dollar today and get this big package of handy things by return mail.

ESCANABA MFG. CO.
Department D
Escanaba, Mich.

Herewith find $1.00 for which please send
me postpaid the EMCO Kitchen Package.

Name

Street

City

.State

Escanaba Manufacturing Company

Makers of

EMCO Clothespins EMCO Toothpicks

EMCO Plates

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

790

ADVERTISEMENTS

Smivs Down

Prepared [7lot SeCf -Rising)

Cake Flour

Rreferred by Housewives for 24 years

This book of valuable
recipes sent for 10
cents.

For Perfect Sponge Cake

and other cakes

Nothing gives such wonderful results in home-made cake as Swans
Down Cake Flour. Try it once in sponge cake! It is a fine, delicate
flour, especially made for delicious cake and pastry making. Swans
Down costs only a few cents more per cake, but it has more to do with
the success than any other ingredient.

Lighter, whiter, finer, better cake, pastries and biscuits — if you use
Swans Down. Recommended by domestic science experts everywhere.

If your grocer cannot supply you with a package of Swans Down
Cake Flour, write to us.

ANS DOvvr

A perfect recipe for Swans
Down Sponge Cake is found
in "Cake Secrets," a useful
booklet by Janet McKenzie
Hill, editor of American
Cookery. New recipes.
Illustrated.

Every package of Swans
Down Cake Flour is care-
fully wrapped in wax paper.
Its contents come to your
kitchen fresh and pure, ready
for wholesome use.

IGLEHEART BROTHERS

Dept. A 5, EVANSVILLE

Established 1856

INDIANA

Also manufacturers of Swans Down Wheat Bran, Nature's Laxative Food

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

791

AMERICAN COOKERY

Cheese
Delights

THE next time you want a tasty,
quick lunch or a dainty treat,
easily prepared, try this recipe:

Butter triangles of bread and spread
generously with Kraft Cheddar ' sprinkle
with paprika; put two slices together
and toast until the cheese is melted and
the bread a delicate brown.

Elkhorn Cheese, in tins, is a steri-
lized cheese of delicious consistency
and flavor — a cheese that will keep
without refrigeration in any season,
any climate.

Only Elkhorn is put up in tin con-
tainers and the process is the exclu-
sive patent of the J. L. Kraft &
Bros. Company.

Sample Offer ^an^'n

stamps or coin for sample tin of Kraft
plain or Pimento flavor, or 20c for both.
Illustrated book of recipes free. Address
361-3 River Street, Chicago, 111.

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. COMPANY

Chicago New York

8 VARIETIES

Each of
National Favor

Kraft

Chile

Swiss

Pimento

Rarebit

Camembert

Roquefort

Lhnburger

IN TINS - 8 ^VARIETIES

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

792

ADVERTISEMENTS

Sandwiches

taste MORE appetizing with
plenty of good

Stickney & Poor's
Prepared Mustard

spread on them!

BOSTON SANDWICHES

A Stickney & Poor Recipe

Pres9 one cup of cold baked beans through a colander. Add
two tablespoonfuls of horseradish and two of minced celery. Season
with onion juice and Stickney & Poor's Mustard, and use preferably
on Boston brown bread.

For picnics, outings and auto trips, there's nothing so satisfying to the sharpened appe-
tite as good, home-made sandwiches with plenty of Stickney & Poor's Prepared Mustard.
It adds a zestful relish to cold meats, salads, and sandwiches of every description. Ask
your grocer for STICKNEY & POOR'S — the Mustard with generations of satisfaction-
giving behind it.

Your co-operating servant,

"MUSTARDPOT"

Stickxey & Poor Spice Company

1815 — Century Old— Century Honored — 1920
Muslard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

793

AMERICAN COOKERY

Faust Chile Spaghetti Au (sratin

It 's All in the Seasoning

That indescribably "different taste" between a home-cooked meal
and a meal prepared by a famous chef is merely the difference in the
seasoning of things.

FAUST CHILE POWDER

If your dealer hasn't it in stock now, send 20c to cover cost,
packing and postage of a can of Faust Chile Powder
and Recipe Book.

C. F. Blanke Tea and Coffee Co.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

Manufacturers of the world-famous Faust
Instant Coffee and Tea

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

794

ADVERTISEMENTS

pfSbape

for SEE

You can get all the food out of a Riteshape wooden dish.
You do not dare to scrape dishes made of soft or water-
proofed materials.

Suggest to your butcher and grocer that good methods in-
clude Riteshape dishes for bulk foods.

The Oval Wood Dish Company

MANUFACTURERS

EASTERN OFFICE

110W. 40th St.

New York City

WESTERN OFFICE

37 S. Wabash Ave.
Chicago, 111.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

795

AMERICAN COOKERY

Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way

fOIVFlITIONS • Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only
— — . * to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub-
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly
Stated below the description of each premium.

Transportation is or is not paid as stated.

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS

_, . , ,. . „ . , ,, ., You cannot purchase them at the stores.

This shows the jelly turned from the mould K

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription.

This shows mould
(upside down)

Cash Price 75 cents.

"PATTY IRONS

»9

As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky
pates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv-
ing hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables,
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes
securely packed in an attractive box with reciper
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents.

SILVER'S

SURE CUT

FRENCH FRIED
POTATO CUTTER

One of the most
modern and efficient
kitchen helps ever in-
vented. A big labor
and time saver.

Sent, prepaid, for
one (1) new subscrip-
tion. Cash price 75
cents.

FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN

Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN

Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1)
:w subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for two
ins.

new
pans

HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD

Imported, Round, 6 inch

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription.
Cash price, 75 cents.

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO.

Boston, Mass.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

796

ADVERTISEMENTS

This New Range Is A
Wonder For Cooking

Although less than four feet long it can do every kind
of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in summer
or by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating.

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as

the gas section is as entirely separate from the coal
section as if placed in another part of the kitchen.

Note the two gas
ovens above — one

for baking, glass

Eaneled and one for
roiling with white
enamel door. The

The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy"

Coal, Wood and Gas Range

large square oven below is heated by coal or wood.

£*\^ Gold Medal m

Glenwood

Write to-day for handsome free booklet 151 that tells all about it, to

Weir Stove Co., Taunton, Mass. Manufacturers of the Celebrated Glenwood
Coal, Wood and Gas Ranges, Heating; Stoves and Furnaces.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

797

.navi i^i\i v^-rviN

'1VU1\ X

SALAD

100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat-
less_cecipes 15c _ 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c.
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N.Y.

"Free-Hand Cooking"

Cook without recipes! A key to cookbooks — correct proportions,
time, temperature; thickening, leavening, shortening, 105 fun-
damental recipes. 40 p. book. 10 cents coin or stamps.

Am. School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th Street, Chicago

AS NEVER BEFORE YOU NEED A
COPY OF

CANNING, PRESERVING
AND JELLY MAKING

By JANET McKENZIE HILL

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, on receipt
of price, $1.50.

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, and renew
your subscription for American Cookery one year, both
for $2.50.

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, to any
present subscriber sending her renewal at $1.50 and two
new subscribers for American Cookery at $1.50 each.

Address

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
Boston, Mass.

Practical Binders for American Cookery

Sent postpaid ior one (1) new subscription to American Cookery. Cash Price 75c

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. K°

MISS FARMER'S SCHOOL OF COOKERY MU5£i££r"ey

30 HUNTINGTON AVENUE

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Courses of four and eight weeks from April to November

SUMMER COURSES

JUNE 7 TO JULY 2

JULY 6 TO JULY 30

1st and 2nd COURSES IN COOKERY ADVANCED COOKERY

MARKETING DIETETICS

TABLE SERVICE BALANCED MENU MAKING

FOOD VALUES COOKING FOR PROFIT

HOUSEHOLD ADMINISTRATION HOUSEWIFERY

CANDY COURSES

Open all the year Send for bulletins

Buy advertised Goods

— Do not accept substitutes
798

ADVERTISEMENTS

-WAY

"My Mama says this makes every
electric socket twice as useful*"

The Quality Plug

It fits an electric light socket and
gives Light and Heat or Light and
Power from a single socket at the
same time.

No longer need you remove your
electric light bulb to use your
Toaster, Vacuum Cleaner, Wash-
ing Machine, etc.

"Every Wired Home Needs
Three or More'9

AT YOUR DEALER'S

OR, SI.25 EACH

Made only by

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO.

Chicago New York San Francisco

When you buy Electrical Appliances ask your dealer to equip the cords with Benjamin No. 903 Szvivel

Attachment Plug. It screws into the socket without twisting the cord.

Benjamin No. 2452 Shade Holders enable you to use any shade with your Two- Way Plugs.

Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes

799

Housecleaning Day
in the Nursen

IT seems natural to the children to wash their toys
with Ivory Soap, for it is Ivory that keeps the
youngsters themselves and their own dainty gar-
ments sweet and clean.

The mildness and purity that make Ivory Soap so
safe for the skin also make it ideal for cleansing the
most delicate textures and articles which ordinarily
one would not think of washing.

Use Ivory wherever and whenever soap is needed.
For the skin — and you never will feel the slightest
irritation. For dishwashing — and your hands will
stay soft and white. For all kinds of laundering —
and your clothes will look cleaner and last longer.
For particular cleaning — and you can keep your
finest furnishings looking like new.

Ivory Soap Flakes

Sample Package

Free

Ivory Soap Flaies — snowlike
flakes of genuine Ivory Soap
that foam, in warm water,
into "Safe Suds in a Second."
You'll like Ivory Soap Flakes
for laundering silks and all
fine fabrics, for the shampoo,
and for particular cleaning.
Write now. for the free pack-
age of Ivory Soap Flakes and
folder of washing hints to
Dept. 1 - E , The Procter 4
Gamble Co., Cincinnati. O.

IVORY SOAP

99»* PURE

^ WL©/0

Buy advertised Goods

- Do not accept substitutes
800

COMPLETE INDEX, VOLUME XXIV

June-July, 1919— May, 1920

PAGE

Adapting the Diet to the Times ... 23

Apple, The . 186

Approving the Pudding ... . 584
Artistic Arrangement of Flowers in the Home 95

Art of the Chopping-Bowl, The . . . 204

Aunt Anna's Company Cake .... 105

Berrying 11

Boy's School Lunch Box, The .... 604

Breakfasts 747

Bringing Springtime Indoors in Winter . 411

Charm of the Beacon Hill Doorway, The . 171

Cheese 286

Chinese Cookery and Customs . . . .251

Christmas Cakes 347

Christmas Cakes from Long Ago . 345

Christmas Celebrations from Everywhere 341
College Girls' Vacation Work . . . .731
Community Kitchen, The — Promise or

Menace 22

Concerning Cooks and Cookery . . . 257

Day Before Christmas in Naples, The . 343

Dishwashing in Literature and Elsewhere 188

Douglas' Alaid Selection 97

Easter Dinner 589

Edge of the Ocean, The 655

Editorials. 30, 110, 190, 270, 350, 430, 510, 590,

670, 750

Emptv House, The 743

Fish We Like 603

Food Notes 43, 124, 364, 588

Foot Hygiene 507

French Millinery in the Kitchen . . 335

Gaining Time in the Home 764

Garden Living Room, The 651

Hail, the Cranberry 285

Herb-border, Culinary and Medicinal, An 745

Home Ideas and Economies, 48, 129, 207, 289,

367, 447, 528, 607, 687, 767
Home Life in Pioneer Days
Housekeeper in Tokyo, The
Joyous Turnover, The
Katherine Helps Her Aunt Ellen
Kitchen Aprons I Have Known
Kitchen Alagic

Lessons in Food and Cookery
Lilies of the Holy Land, The
Lunch Basket Romance, A
Magician's Daughter, The
Make Your Nursery Cheerful
Marketing in the Philippines
Mayor of Nancy and How He Fed

City, The ........ 17

Menu-Making and Table Service . . . 524
Menus, 41, 42, 43, 121, 123, 202, 203, 282, 283,

362, 363, 441, 442, 522, 523, 601, 602, 681,

682, 762, 763

Modern Saga, A 101

New Books ^ 298,378,618

New Year's Cakes of Long Ago . . . 428

Nuts for Uncle Cornelius 338

Oh, Come Away 107

Dinner

ing

One Misty, Moisty Morning

One Summer Day ....

One Week in Winter

Out of the Basement

Owning One's Own ....

Pepps' Pitiless Prosperity

Pests Made Profitable '.

Pie at the End of the Rainbow, The

Pies a la Weston

Planning Pleasant Table Service
Playhouses for Children .
Profit in a Garden, The .
Putting Thanks into Thanksgiving
Reconstructed Grape Jelly

Renegade, The

Safe and Sane Canning and Preserv
Saving Strength in the Home
Serving Foods Attractively .
Silver Lining, The, 138, 218, 306. 386, 5

700, 780
Six Meals for Six Dollars or Less .
Small Conveniences for Housewives

Smile On!

Solving a Problem in Household Economics
Something New for the Hallowe'en Party

Song, A

Soup of the Day . .

Soup-Making in French Kitchens .

Stranded

Story of Coffee, The

Telephone Voice, The

Theory, A

Topsy-Turvy

To Raise a Family in Whose Arteries

the Blood Leaps

Traveling Companions

Up in Grandma's Attic

Utilizing Leftovers

Why is French Cookery Extolled? .
Wizard of the Soup-Pot; The ....

Wood-Stone Kitchen, The

Yorkshire Ducks

Youngest Bride and The Household

Gospel, The 426,

Seasoxable-axd-Tested Recipes

Apple Charlotte

Apple Slump

Apples, Ginger Baked

Apples, Stuffed 116,

Apricots, Canned, Frozen

Artichokes, Creamed

Asparagus, Molded

Asparagus with Buttered Crumbs. 111.

Banana, Broiled

Batter, Fritter

Beans, String, French Style ....
Beef, Round of, with Raisins ....

Biscuit, Baking Powder

Biscuit, Oatmeal

Biscuit, Orange, with Filling ....

PAGE

740
176

349
415
177

127
736

262

331
661
284
125
446
205
102
423
622,

610
565
261
445
184
288
765
525
419
269
684
109
576

443
10S
669
744
181
683
668
606

581

197
201
196
437

599

:~^

757
754

281

595

678

729a

AMERICAN COOKERY

• PAGE.

Blanc Mange, Sea Moss Farine . . . 679

Bowl, A Christmas . . . . ' . . - 359

Bread, Boston Brown 36

Bread,' Noisette. Ill ' 757

Brittle, Peanut . 360

Buns; Hot Cross 598

Buns, Philadelphia Butter 357

Butter, Green . . 596

Cabbage, Stuffed, au Gratin .... 676

Cake, Almond Sponge 279

Cake, Chocolate 439, 520

Cake, Coffee 516

Cake, Dainty White . ...... 118

Cake, Delicate, Fudge Frosting . . 198

Cake for Decoration Day 761

Cake, Fudge, with Fruit Filling ... 199

Cake, Gala . . . . 359

Cake, Hotwater Sponge 119

Cake, Igleheart's Lemon Queen ... 40

Cake, Italian ; ... 279

Cake for May Queen 761

Cake, Orange Cream, with Filling . . . 678

Cake, Ribbon 40

Cake, Spice 200

Cake, Spring, with Boiled Frosting . . 680

Cakes, Cocoanut 39

Cakes, May Party 759

Cakes, Raised Potato 280

Canapes 353, 439

Caramels, Walnut 329

Carrot Pie . 201

Carrot Pudding 201

Cheese, Delicious 761

Cheese, Green 595

Cheese Ramequins 117

Cheese, Scalloped 596

Chestnuts, Browned 278

Chicken a la King 354

Chicken, Breast of, with Mushrooms . . 516

Chicken, Cincinnati 597

Chicken, Creamed in Bread Baskets . . 516

Chicken en Casserole. Ill 755

Chicken Filets with Almond Sauce . 281
Chicken, Roast Spring, Stuffed with Ripe

Olives . . . . _ 756

Chicken Supreme en Surprise .... 434

Chocolate, Malted Milk 40

Codfish, Baked and Stuffed .... 593

Coffee, Iced, with Orange 120

Cookies Cut with Fancy Cutters . . . 519

Corn Balls 360

Corn, Stewed, Green, with Peppers . . 114

Crackers, Walnut 599

Cream, Chocolate Macaroon Bavarian . 518

Cream, Ginger 197

Cream, Nutted 277

Cream, Strawberry Bavarian. 111. . . 760

Cup, Pineapple-and-Marshmallow . . . 520

Custard, Boiled, with Snow Eggs . . . 519

Custard, Frozen Fig 598

Custard, Renversee, Caramel .... 39

Custard, Steamed Coffee 521

Custard, Warsaw 678

Dasheen au Gratin. Ill 757

Dates, Creamed 600

Dainties, Tea 119

Dessert, One-Two-Three 119

Dinner, New England Boiled .... 436

Dressing, Cream Salad 760

PAGE

Dressing for Pear Salad 758

Dressing for Pershing Salad . . . . 115

Dressing for Potato Salad 114

Dressing, Russian 38

Dressing, Salad 356

Drinks, Hot Weather ..'.... 120

Ducks, Bombay, Fricassee or Curry of . 34

Dumplings, Baked Apple 115

Dumplings, Onion, with Potato Crust . 196

Eggplant a l'Espagnole 594

Eggplant, Scalloped 114

Eggs au Gratin 117

Eggs, Easter 594

Eggs, Snow, for Easter 597

Eggs, Spanish .' 434

Eggs, Stuffed, for Buffet Supper or Picnic 117

Eggs, Swiss Style ....... 117

Eggs, Vallombrosa . . . • . . . . 594

Filet Mignon 355

Filling, Orange 678

Filling, Orange Cream 679

Firmety 194

Fish, Baked in Rolls . 515

Fish, Baked, with Stuffing 515

Forcemeat, Calf's Liver 33

Fritters, Bacon • . . . 356

Fritters, Parsnip . . 355

Fritters, Tomato 593

Frosting, Boiled 680

Frosting for Lemon Queen Cake ... 40

Fruit, Hajf-Jellied _ 117

Fruit Whip, Proportions for .... 198

Fudge, Cherry 360

Gingerbread . : 521

Goose, Roast 354

Grapes. Glace 360

Haddock Farci 674

Halibut, Turbans of 436

Ham, Boiled, with Green Butter . . . 596

Ham, Smothered 434

Hors D'Oeuvres, Italian Style .... 33

Icing, Chocolate 200

Icing for Chocolate Cake 440

Jelly, Cranberry 278

Jelly, Harlequin 278

Kisses, Oatmeal 754

Lamb, Crown Roast of 513

Lamb, Leg of, Roasted with Sweet Potatoes 675

Lamb, Shoulder of, Boned and Roasted . 596

Lamb, Shoulder of, Saute 34

Lemonade 120

Lettuce, Chinese, Russian Dressing . . 38

Lobster, Casserole of 676

Macaroons, Chocolate 517

Mackerel Baked in Vinegar .... 674

Marmalade, "Penrod and Sam" ... 201

Marmalade, "Torchy" 201

Mayonnaise, Mock 438

Meringues, Cocoanut 39

Omelet, Traveler's . ' . .' . . . . 676

Onions, Stuffed. Ill 756

Oysters a la Mornay 195

Oysters, Terrapin 516

Pancakes 116

Pancakes, Chicken 355

Pancakes, Potato 361

Parfait, Pineapple 677

Paste, Potato, for Dumplings, etc. . . 196

Paste, Quick Puff 280

729b

COMPLETE INDEX

Pastry for Meat Pies 113

Peas Cooked in a Jar 37

Pepper, Spiced 116

'Pie, Apple . 358

Pie, Beefsteak-and-Kidney 113

Pie, Carrot 201

Pie, Chicken-and-Oyster . . . 514

Pie, Fluffy Lemon 38

Pie, Goblet (English) 674

Pie, Pineapple Custard 600

Pie, Potato-and-Liver 514

Pie, Raisin, with Meringue .... 197

Pie, Rhubarb-and-Raisin 758

Pie, Salmon • . 118

Pie, Shepherd's, Beef and Oysters . . 434

Pie, Sour Cream 679

Pie, Veal-and-Ham 193

Pineapple Puff 678

Pork Tenderloin 274, 275

Potato Border, Vegetables and Broiled Beef 35

Potato Puree 37

Potatoes a l'Otero 194

Potatoes Anna 514

Potatoes, Baked, Paprika 517

Potatoes, Candied Sweet 675

Potatoes, Duchesse. Ill 754

Pralines, Creole 361

Puffballs, Breakfast * 277

Pudding, Apple Macaroni 600

Pudding, Black Cherry ....... 761

Pudding, Carrot 201

Pudding, Cherry . . . ' . . . .680

Pudding, Christmas Plum 357

Pudding, Froth 680

Pudding, Frugal 678

Pudding, Macaroni-and-Chicken . . . 276

Pudding, Macaroon 600

Pudding, Rich Rice 279

Punch, Mint 120

Punch, Tea 120

Rarebit, Olive 436

Rice, Crown of, with Creamed Chicken . 35

Ring, Norwegian Birthday 358

Roasting Poultry and Birds .... 273

Roll, Apple 280

Roll, Jelly. 359

Rolls, American Crusty 759

Rolls, Coffee 279

Rolls, Finger . 437

Rolls, Sausage-and-Veal 434

Rolls, Shamrock 599

Salad, Apple-and-Celery . . . . . 356

Salad, Apple-and-Onion 596

Salad, Apple-and-Pimiento 598

Salad, Brazilian . 277

Salad, Cherry, with Cream Dressing. 111. 760

Salad, Chicken-and-Pineapple .... 355

Salad, Cooked Vegetable 677

Salad, Date-and-Banana 438

Salad, Pear. Ill 758

Salad, Pekin 38

Salad, Pershing 115

Salad, Potato, Summer Style . . . . 114

Salad, Prince of Wales 569

Salad, Stuffed Peach 439

Salad, Yankee Potato . . ... . . 437

Sally Lunn 679

Salt, Spiced 117

Sandwiches a l'lmperatrice .... 354

PAGE PAGE

Sandwiches, Cheese-and-English-Walnut . 440

Sandwiches; Mint 440

Sandwiches, Pimiento 440

Sardines as a Hors D'Oeuvre . 33
Sauce, Asparagus, for Roast Lamb or

Chicken 753

Sauce, Brown

Sauce, Cranberry 277

Sauce, Currant-Jelly, for Game . . . 281

Sauce, Horseradish 754

Sauce, Mornay 195

Sauce, Olive . . 281

Sausage with Apple Rings 437

Shad, Planked. Ill 754

Sherbet, Orange 129

Shortcake, Strawberry 677

Snow Eggs 519

Souffle, Orange i 521

Soup, Asparagus-and-Chicken .... 753

Soup, Bean-and-Tomato 513

Soup, Clear 433

Soup, Cream of Asparagus-and-Tomato . 673

Soup, Cream of Chicken, for^ten plates . 353

Soup, Cream of Corn 593

Soup, Emergency 433

Soup for the Convalescent 673

Soup, Ham

Soup, King of Russian 753

Soup, Simple Tomato Bisque .... 353

Spinach or Chard with Lamb Chops . . 34

Sponge, Apricot 40

Squab, Broiled. Ill 756

Steak, Salisbury 754

Steak, Yankee Boy, with Brussels Sprouts 194

Stuffing, Almond, for Turkey or Chicken . 276

Stuffing, Bread, for Turkey or Chicken . 273
Sweetbreads, Orange Sauce . . . 281, 521

Tapioca, Orange 521

Tart, Strawberry Cream 758

Tarts, Jelly 358

Tarts, Peach 118

Terrapin, Mock

Timbale, Cold Apple . . # . . . .438

Timbale, Rice with Strawberries ... 37

Toast, Cinnamon 439

Tomatoes, Deviled . . . . . . 281

Tomato, Paring a, without Scalding . . 116

Trifle, Coffee and Tapioca 38

Tripe, French Method of Cooking . . 673

Veal, Roast au Jus . 595

Vegetable Marrow, Sauted 114

Venison, Roast, Virginia Style .... 276

Waffles for May Breakfast 753

Whips, Uncooked Fruit 198

Queries and Answers

Almonds, to Blanch, Brown, and Salt . . 452

Beans, Boston Baked 694

Beef, How to Corn 774

Beef, How to Spice 774

Beef Olives with Apples 454

Books on Serving 614

Brandy Substitute 214

Bread, Baking Powder and Yeast, Compared 54

Bread, French Crusty 696

Bread, Vienna 696

Bread, Whys in Baking 374

Brittle, Puffed Rice 371

Butter, How to Make at Home . . . 612

729c

AMERICAN COOKERY

PAGE

Cake,'Angel 212

Cake, Cocoa, with Baking Powder . 210

Cake, Cocoanut 56

Cake, Fruit, without Preservatives . 214

Cake, Honeymoon 212

Cake, Layer, To Keep Fresh . . . .614

Cake, Sour Cream 456

Cake, Sunshine ......... 212

Cakes, Butter 696

Cakes, Cheese 532

Candy, Ice Cream, Streaked . . . 694

Carrots, Pickled 216

Cheese, Head 611

Chicken, Terrapin 294

Chocolate, Milk, To Coat Candy ... 614
Chowder, Canned Vegetable . . . . 136
Cockroaches, Exterminating .... 54
Coffee, How to Make Good .... 774

Coffee, Service of 56

Cookies, Chocolate 778

Cookies, Drop 778

Cooking at High Altitude 776

Creamed Dishes, Rice Border for ... 54

Desserts with Little Sugar 614

Dressing, Cooked Salad 136

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad ... 54

Duck, Bombay ." 54

Ducks, Yorkshire 536

Eggs, Cuban, on Toast 294

Exhibition, A Food Saving 52

Exhibits for Cooking Class 614

Fat, Test for Frying 52

Figs, Preserved 296

Figs, Spiced 296

Filling for Honeymoon Cake . . . .214
Filling, Pineapple for Layer Cake . . 456

Five O'Clock Tea, Menu for . . . .451

Flowers, Crystallized 296

French Pastries, Popular 772

Frosting, Glossy Boiled . . . . 376, 612

Fudge, Plain and Divinity 376

Gumbo, Crab 694

Icing, Cooked and Uncooked . . . .372

Icing, Fondant 374

Jars, Preserving 293

Jujubes, Raspberry 451

Luncheon, Wedding Buffet .... 772

Milk, Tinned 698

Mincemeat 371

Mincemeat without Meat 452

Mustard, Plain and Stored 372

Nougat, Honey 696

PAGE

Oleomargarine Compared with Butter . 372
Orange Peels, What to do with .614

Oranges, Baked 692

Oysters in Cucumber Cups .... 294'

Oysters, Jellied . . . . . . 454

Paste, Marshmallow JJ^

Pastilles, Orange 452

Pastry, French, "Leaf" \ 772

Peaches, Spiced • . 296

Pickles, Cucumber 134

Pie, Butter Scotch 614

Pie, Chocolate ■ 594

Pie Crust, Recipe for Tender .... 134

Pie, Lemon, with Top Crust . . 371

Pie, Lower Crust in Lemon 133

Pies, English Pork 61 1

Plates, Use of Bread and Butter ... 56

Pork, How to Pickle 774

Preserve, White Grape 293

Pudding, Boiled Indian 698

Pudding, Chocolate, with Bread . 133

Pudding, Devil's Food Chocolate . . . 133

Pudding, Plum 214

Ravioli, Italian ' 698

Roll, Butter Scotch 614

Salad, Ginger Ale 210

Salad, Molded Cream Cheese .... 136

Salad, Service of 56

Salmon, Color in Cooking 692

Sandwich, Waldorf Special 692

Sauce, Bittersweet 374

Sauce, Brown 293

Sauce, Brown Sugar 698

Sauce, Butterscotch 296

Sauce, Chocolate 372, 612

Sauce, Chocolate Fudge 294

Sauce, Drawn Butter Pudding . . 134

Sauce for Chocolate Pudding .... 133

Sauce, Whipped Cream Substitute . . 134

Soda, Baking, in Cooking Vegetables . . 534

Soup at Formal Luncheon 56

Stuffing, Breadcrumb 698

Sugar and Corn Syrup in Canning . . 776

Sunday Night Supper Dishes .... 454

Timbales, How To Cook 536

Toast, Curled 692

Toast for Dinner Occasions 451

Turkish Delight 452

Veal Loaf with Little Meat 454

Wafers, Rolled Almond 536

Waffles, Rich 296

729d

-JL

PURE FLAVORING EXTRACTS

If you want the finest
flavors ~ use SALTER'S

r SAUER uses only the purest ingredients.
SAUER exercises the utmost care through*
-out the process of manufacture.
SAUER properly ages both raw materials and
ilnished product before putting on the market
SAUERSis one of the most completely equipped ,
modern and sunny plants of any food product
manufacturer in the United States.

wm&

n-UID OUNCE

tps^pfy the ftierf -

32 Flavors

and

SAUER'S

Fru (tt(- Puinch

The new temperance beverage and all-round flavor,
a refreshing drink when properly mixed with sugar

AND WATER. DELIGHTFUL TN FRUIT PUNCH .MILK AND EGG COMBF
-NATIONS. SHERBETS. ICES. ICECREAM. PUDDINGS. CAKES- IV FACT
IN ANY DESSERT. IT IS THE OJVf FLAVOR THAT CAN BE USED
FOR ALL PURPOSES. A 3^ BOTTLE MAKES 40 GLASSES OF DELICIOUS
PUNCH.

QUALITY HAS MADE SAUER *S THE
LARGEST SELLING BRAND IN THE US.

QUALITY HAS WON FOR SAUER'S
SEVENTEEN HIGHEST AWARDS FOR

PURITY. STRENGTH*»°FINt FLAVOR

(OFFERED IN 12 OIFFEREUT SIZES TO MEET THE NEEOS OF EVERVOME FOP SALE BY
ALL OOOO OROCCRS)

The CISAUER COMPANY, '&**«**>&

EST48USMEO 1887

TUDOR PRESS. BOSTON

Comi or liner Cup

P^tiOgS

jCcnUmil")

BAKER'S COCOA.

is pure and delicious.
Trade mark on every

package.
WALTER BAKER & CO. ltd.

ESTABLISHED I7SO DORCHESTER.MASS.

"Choisa"

Orange Pekoe

Ceylon Tea

A Select High-Grade Tea
at a Moderate Price

Pure

Rich

Fragrant

S. S. PIERCE CO.

BOSTON BROOKLINE

Established

stablished ^*CJ

AMMONIA

The Ammonia loosens the dirt,
making washing easy. The Blue
gives the only perfect finish.

The People's

Choice for Over

Sixty Years

1858

1920

SAWYER CRYSTAL BLUE CO.
88 Broad St., Boston, Mass.

PURE and
WHOLESOME

The most delicious dressing. %
Made with butter instead of 'v-<*
oil it pleases everyone.

SLACK

SALAD CREAM J

If you like oil add your favorite brand
of true olive oil and you >.
get better results than
with oil dressings.

A$k grocers for

.- SLADES

D. & L. SLADE CO. /

Boilon

SLADE'S SPICES

flavor most and flavor best

Ask Grocers for S lade's

have been established more than 50 YEARS. By our system ol
payments every family in moderate circumstances can own a
VOSE piano. We take old instruments in exchange and delivr/
the new piano in your home free of expense. Write for catalog D and explanations.

VOSE& SONS PIANO CO.. 160 Bovlstnn Street.

PIANOS

R,..,»n M»...

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY

3 9999 06385 361 6

^?f)

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