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CROWN OF RICE WITH CREAMED CHICKEN bb 

AMERICAN 

COOKE 



FORMERLY 




THE, BOSTO 
ZCDRINGSCHOOLMAGAZINE 

)F- CULINARY- SCIENCE^ DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS 



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JUNE— JULY, 1919 im^ 

VOL. XXIV No. 1 llif 






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PUBLISHED 
BY 

THE BOSTON CGDMNG 
.SCHOOL MAGAZINE C<* 

221 COLUMBUS AVE 
BOSTON MASS 




Tasty, New 
Delights Follow 



when the thrifty housewife uses the ideal leaven, Rumford the wholesome baking 
powder for perfect baking. Rumford, so thorough and uniform in its action, in- 
sures perfect lightness and fineness of texture, no matter what combination of 
flours may be used. Rumford helps wonderfully to bring out all the natural sweet- 
ness and flavor of the cereals. Break open a hot Rumford biscuit or muffin and you 
will appreciate what is meant by the true sweetness of the flour. 

Write today for your free copy of our illustrated cook book — "The Rumford 
Way of Cookery and Household Economy" compiled by Janet McKenzie Hill 
— tells how to entertain formally and informally — how to purchase economic- 
ally and is of particular value to teachers of domestic science and their pupils. 



P 74 lO 18 



RUMFORD COMPANY, Providence, R. I. 



RUMFORD 

1 V BAKING POWDER 



THE 
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American Cookery 



FORMERLY 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Volume XXIV 



June -July, 1919— May, 1920 



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Published by 









THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 




Copyrighted, 1919, 1920, Idy.-Th-k TqsTGN 'Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 





WELCOME HOMEBOYS 

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Painted by Edw. V. Brewer for Cream of Wheat Company. 



Copyright 1019 by Cream of Wheat Company. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept' substitutes 

1 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

Vol. XXIV JUNE-JULY, 1919 No. 1 



CONTENTS FOR JUNE -JULY 



PAGE 

BERRYING. Ill Beulah Rector 11 

THE MAYOR OF NANCY AND HOW HE FED HIS CITY. 111. 

Blanche McManus 17 

THE LILIES OF THE HOLY LAND Edgyth Babbitt 21 

THE COMMUNITY KITCHEN— Promise or Menace 

Percival B. Walmsley 22 

ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES .... Kurt Heppe 23 

LESSONS IN FOODS AND COOKERY, WITH SIMPLE APPLI- 
ANCES. FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING 

Anna Barrows 26 

EDITORIALS 30 

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES. (Illustrated with half- 
tone engravings of prepared dishes) Janet M.Hill 33 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN JUNE " " " 41 

MENUS SIMPLE, WELL-BALANCED, FOR WEEK IN JULY 

Janet M.Hill 42 

MENUS FOR LODGES AND BOARDS OF TRADE . " " " 43 

FOOD HINTS FOR JUNE-JULY " " u 44 

KATHERINE HELPS HER AUNT ELLEN Louise Bennett Weaver 46 
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Warm Weather Hints — A 
Dutch Treat Outing — The Ship that Comes in — Dandelion Wine 
To Preserve the Heart of Watermelon — The Best Utility ... 48 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 52 

THE SILVER LINING 62 




$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy 

Foreign postage 40c additional 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright, 1919, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 




Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

2 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



INDEX FOR JUNE— JULY 



Adapting the Diet to the Times 

Berrying ..•••• 

Community Kitchen, The — Promise or Menace 

Editorials ..••••• 

Food Hints for June-July 

Home Ideas and Economies .... 

Katherine Helps her Aunt Ellen 

Lessons in Foods and Cookery, with Simple Appliances 

Cooking ..••••• 
Lilies of the Holy Land, The . 
Mayor of Nancy and How He Fed His City, The 

Menus 



— ■ Foods Ready without 



41, 



PAGE 
23 
11 

22 
30 
43 
48 
46 

26 
21 
17 

42,43 



SEASONABLE- AND -TESTED RECIPES 



Biscuit, Baking Powder 
Biscuit, Oatmeal 
Bread, Boston Brown 



111 



Cake, Igleheart's Lemon Queen. 
Cake, Ribbon 
Cakes, Cocoanut. 111. 
Chocolate, Malted Milk . 
Custard Renversee, Caramel . 
Dressing, Russian . . ■ 

Ducks, Bombay, Fricassee or Curry 
Forcemeat, Calf's Liver . . 

Frosting for Igleheart's Lemon Queen 
Hors D'Oeuvres, Italian Style . 
Lamb, Shoulder of, Saute 
Lettuce, Chinese, Russian Dressing 
Meringues, Cocoanut. 111. 



of 



Cak 



111 



36 Peas Cooked in a Jar 

36 Pie, A Fluffy Lemon 

36 Potato Border with Vegetables and Broiled 

40 Beef. 111. 

40 Potato Puree ... 

39 Rice, Crown of, with Creamed Chicken 

40 Salad, Pekin .... 

39 Sardines as a Hors D'Oeuvre . 
38 Sauce, Brown 
34 Spinach or Chard with Broiled Lamb Chops 

33 HI. . . • 

40 Sponge, Apricot 

33 Terrapin, Mock . 

34 Timbale, Rice with Strawberries 
38 Trifle, Coffee and Tapioca 
39 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



Bread, Baking Powder and Yeast Compared 

Cake, Cocoanut 

Cockroaches, Exterminating 

Coffee, Service of 

Creamed Dishes, Rice Border for 

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad 



54 Duck, Bombay 

56 Exhibition, A Food Saving 

54 Fat, Test for Frying 

56 Plates, Use of Bread and Butter 

54 Salad, Service of 

54 Soup at Formal Luncheon 



37 
38 

35 
37 
35 
38 
33 
35 

34 
40 
35 
37 

38 



54 
52 
52 
56 
56 
56 



We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for 
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make 
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a 
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BOSTON, MASS. 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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AN ELEMENTARY TEXT BOOK 
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Simple Refreshments for Class Supper 

I 

Strawberries, Sugar, Cream 

Little Cakes Salted Almonds 

Fruit Punch 

II 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

Salted Almonds 

Best Macaroons 

Cookies 

Fruit Punch 



Simple Banquets for School Commencements 

I 

Strawberries 

Creamed Haddock in Ramekins 

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Chives 

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II 

Pineapple-and-Canned Peach Cocktail 

Chicken or Salmon-and-LeUuce Salad 

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Strawberry Ice Cream, or 

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American Cook 

VOL. XXIV JUNE— JULY 

Berrying 



ery 



No. 1 



By Beulah Rector 

Photographs by Mr. C. E. Paixe 



FROM the twigs we had broken in 
the pasture Joe stripped the re- 
maining shiny huckleberries. He 
crunched the last seed and tossed the 
sprig aside. "Whenever I taste a huckle- 
berry I see the Matunuck hills, a ten- 
quart pail to fill, two or three berries on 
a bush here, two or three more there, 
the trek down the hot Drift Road, talking 
of the swim we'd have when we got 
home, vowing we'd never go berrying 
again ■ — and then getting back there the 
next morning." 

Oh, yes, the Matunuck huckleberry 
hills. Joe is not the only one who holds 
them in remembrance. For their fruits 
I became an early riser, and tried to fill 
with the same zeal my two best friends. 
Heavy task! The argument was clear 
enough to me. If you went berrying 
before breakfast, it made the day very 
much longer. Then you returned for 
eleven o'clock bathing, caught the little 
brothers before they could leave for the 
beach, prevailed upon them to give up 
their sail-boat making on the cottage 
porch and stagger out with your heavy 
pails, on a canvass of the housekeepers 
in the small seashore community. For 
these services they would be allowed the 
handsome commission of one cent a 
quart. To be sure, having thus engaged 
in trade, you forfeited all chances of 
being presented at the Court of St. James, 
but then you had this berry money to 
spend at Christmas, and was not the 
lordly sum of four and five dollars worth 
some sacrifice? 

In retrospect, I can feel now the sog- 



giness of the clothes as I dressed in that 
pale chilly morning. I can see the breath 
of fog on the mirror of the pine dresser, 
and the drops of moisture held in every 
mesh of the window screen, while from the 
beach comes again the muffled rumble of 
breakers. Once more I tiptoe down the 
narrow stairs, shoes in hand; for these ex- 
peditions might be done away with, should 
the family consider their sleep interrupted 
by this member who felt the fiscal neces- 
sity of going for huckleberries before 
daylight. With rare caution I make the 
descent, search the cupboards and the 
ice box for a hastv breakfast, and then 

« 

steal forth to pull the string on my best 
friend's toe. Together we call at the 
back door of the Murray Hotel, where 
the buxom hotel keeper's wife hands 
Betty a pail holding her morning meal. 
Together we explore beneath the red- 
fringed napkin, and start off up the road, 
munching the corned-beef sandwiches 
and the doughnuts, our gustatory joy 
full. This pail, with its contents yet to 
be discovered, is to Betty one of the few 
charms of that morning enterprise. 

At this hour of day the Drift Road was 
quiet. Perhaps a slow-moving cart crept 
past loaded with seaweed for fertilizing 
the fields. Behind it trailed lengths of 
shiny brown kelp. The gypsies in the 
school yard are not yet awake. \ ou 
quicken with gratitude to see the huge 
dog under the red wagon, his nose 
between his forepaws. 

Just beyond the turn of the straight 
Drift Road lie the huckleberry hills. I 
repeat it — lie the huckleberry hills. 



11 



12 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Sweet fern, lichened rocks, feathery 
grasses, holding copious drenchings, and 
the high outlook away to the ocean — 
when the fog rises. Your shoes slosh 
at every step. When you straighten up, 
your back aches. You wipe your hot 
face and turn it to the breeze that is 
coming from the sea. Now you catch 
the white of the Point Judith light, and 
the weary voice of the fog horn. Later, 
comes the roll of wagon wheels, and the 
beat of horses' feet on the road below. 
It must be all of ten o'clock. The 
buckboards are going to the village after 
hotel guests. We have just an hour, 
then, in which to reach home and get to 
the beach with the others. Welcome 
signal buckboard wheels! 

The white Drift Road dust settles on 
your wet shoes. Pails drag at muscle- 
strained arms. Lips and teeth bear 
evidence of your employment. Faces 
are perspiring. Most likely you will 
meet friends comfortably and cleanly 




DO YOU KNOW THE WAY? 



riding out for the day. It would not 
require Tony Weller to set forth the 
beauty of an alibi. 

Eight summers the Matunuck hills 
made themselves known to us by their 
fruits. And the berries subtracted from 
their bushes added to our Christmas 
pocket money. 

But red buds show on the maples. 
New voices are twittering in the bushes. 
Central Park has turned green. The 
walks are full of baby wagons and the 
benches full of nurses. You must watch 
sharp or a kiddy-car will run you down. 
Evidently the private schools have all 
disbanded these spring afternoons and 
the pupils are taking outdoor exercises. 

Days grow warmer and lighter. Comes 
the middle of June. The high buildings 
and the soft concrete walks hold in an 
extraordinary amount of heat. Oh, to 
exchange these closely-built miles, barren 
of trees and grass, foi houseless rolling 
hills, wooded and green. About this 
time a friend in the Berkshires writes 
she has been wild strawberrying. Some 
one else wild strawberrying while you 
pace this artificiality? This is the 
thought that finally drives you out of it. 
On your train journey into the hill coun- 
try you see children stooping over in the 
fields. No one needs tell you what they 
are doing out there with their shiny 
pails. You nudge the schoolboy who 
sits beside you, bound for his grand- 
mother's Vermont farm. "To-morrow 
I'll be out after wild strawberries, myself," 
you confide in his ear. 

One might manage April and May, or 
even July, in the brain of the city, but 
a wild strawberry June belongs only to 
the heart of the country! 

Do you know where these, the sweetest 
of wild berries, thrive? Up a hill road 
strewn with leaves, where oven bird calls 
and red squirrel scolds, over a wall in a 
mowing, shut away from the rest of the 
world by pines and birches. A towhee 
hops on a crumbled stone fence. From 
remote woods is the trill of a thrush. A 
squirrel speaks out of the abundance of 



BERRYING 



13 



his irascible nature. The trees sway, 
the clouds trail their shadows across the 
slopes of the mountain. 

Gathering wild strawberries is ex- 
ceeding intimate work. Here they grow 
in a wide patch, to the exclusion of other 
plants, so thick that when you lean close 
to them and peek under the leaves you 
see a red-spotted carpet. Continued 
bending is painful. Continued squatting 
is impossible. You select a less fruited 
section and kneel. Then, preferring 
stains to stiff joints, you sit. Basket 
full, vou cover the delicious sweetness 
with ferns and, then, there at the foot 
of the hill is the brook in which to dip 
your arms to the elbow and lave your 
hot face. 

Berries are as individual as people in 
their dwelling places. How the rasp- 
berry delights in the society of ferns and 
warm stone walls, and how like ancient 
memories they cling about old houses, or 
even draw nourishment and flavor de- 
lectable from cellar holes, the compan- 
ions of mulleins and young birches and 
softening hand-carved beams! 

But if you wish raspberries in large 
quantities, there is an isolated hill to 
which I must refer you, — provided you 
can endure the trip to the top through 
scratchiest, untrimmed black birches, 
which fly back and hit you in the eyes. 

Then you strike the cleared crown of 
the hill. "Worth coming just for the 
view," exclaims the person of whose 
pleasure at the beginning of the climb 
you felt most uneasy. You expand. 
Here the spirit can soar. The country 
spreads away on every side: peaks of 
the White and the Green Mountains, 
tidy mowings, a lake or two, forests, 
tiny farms, up and down, down and up, 
but all a wealth of greenness and love- 
liness. And when satisfied with the 
distant vision, you utter a cry at the 
countless red raspberries waiting, like 
opportunity, right where you stand. 

Across the hill top voices call. Vir- 
ginia toddles over in pink rompers. She 
holds out her half-pint cup. "See," 




THERE IS THE BROOK 

sings the flute-like voice, "I've filled it 
two times already." 

"Good for you, Pink Rompers," you 
call back. ".You've picked a whole 
pint in three hours." 

"Which had you rather do?" inquires 
another little voice "Hunt birds' nests 
or go swimming, jr pick raspberries in the 
hot sun?" 

"Oh, Boy! What a hard question?" 
You adroitly turn the subject. "Say, 
won't we have piles of a. : to eat next 
winter. When you eat it, ycu can think 
of the hill near, the sunshine and sky 
where we picked the berries." 

"No," Pink Rompers shakes her head 
and pronounces in matter-of-fact tone, 
"I shall think how we picked them in 
Roxbury." 

"What time do you think it is?" Boy 
asks again. 

"Bv the sun I should judge it must be 
12.30." 



14 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Boy considers that a while. "I can 
tell the time by the wind," he muses. 

But that is not necessary. Just then 
a hearty voice summons all the berry 
pickers to the top of the hill. Boy imme- 
diately forgets the birds'-nest hunting; 
regardless of briers, his brown legs race 
through the bushes. We make toward 
the young chokecherry shrubs, where we 
have hid the lunch baskets and the 
boxes. We are on the top of the world. 
In all the miles spread before us there is 
no sight of any other human being. 

"If we couldn't find the way down 
the hill," says Boy, "I s'pose we'd have 
to stay here all night." 

"But we couldn't stay here all night,' 
cries Pink Rompers, aghast, "we haven't 
any brush teeth." 

If you watch where the woods are 



cut off, after a few seasons have passed, 
you are almost sure to find wild rasp- 
berries. The cutters leave piles of brush 
which the vines delight to climb, — and 
you after them. Before your eyes a 
branch fairly drips with perfect red 
berries! 

You step on the pile and sink imme- 
diately to your knees. With great dif- 
ficulty and a lacerated stocking you lift 
yourself out, seize a slender sapling for 
support and plunge the other foot into 
a hornet's nest. The big St. Bernard, 
worn out after barking at a rabbit in 
one of these same piles, is now cooling 
off under a shady bush, panting vigor- 
ously, his tongue rippling over white 
teeth. He regards your wild and seem- 
ingly unnecessary manoeuvres patiently, 
as much as to say, "Oh, well, she'll have 




LIKE OLD MEMORIES THE RASPBERRY CLINGS ABOUT OLD HOUSES 



BERRYING 



15 



enough of it in a little more and be ready 
to go home. Poor hunting here." He 
remembers his own failure with the 
rabbit. 

The thicket is no place for contem- 
plation. Here life is a struggle. Vines 
and tenacious briers stand as high as 
your neck. \\ ild clematis grows in 
profusion over dead stumps and rotting 
tree trunks. Wasps hover about the 
cloying blossoms. You are stung and 
would have cried out — • but you recall 
there is only the dog to hear you — and 
he already looks so disgusted. You are 
so nervous every time a bee comes along 
that you can't even look one in the 
sting. The sun beats down. Mosqui- 
toes make little puffs of air near your face, 
and before vou can find a hand to smite, 
they have bitten you. They have a 
preference for the eyelids and nose. You 
pick in desperate haste to finish. You 
wonder where you are going to find 
enough pins to hold your clothes to- 
gether, so as to make a modest return 
home. Nevertheless, the hollow is the 



place to fill your basket; to make sure 
of rows and rows of am afterward. A 
feeling of toleration for its abuses sweeps 
over you, when, several hours later, clean 
and fresh from your swim, you settle 
down on the porch and see the line of 
jars showing their rich contents. 

If you count results in the number of 
quarts of fruit brought home, then, 
clearly raspberrying is not for meditation. 

Commend me rather to an old pasture 
where the steeple bush is pink, and the 
rocks gray, and the pungent smell of 
pennyroyal teases you to find its green 
if you can. And let the day be very 
light, the sky very blue, the clouds that 
scud across it very white and puffy. 
From tussock to tussock you move about, 
drawing a handsome toll from every 
clean blueberry bush. Xo stooping and 
straining, no tearing of clothes and dis- 
torting of temper here. Under the big 
sugar maple the cows placidly switch 
their tails. There is a glint of quiet 
pond, deep with cloud shadows. Beyond 
is the mountain, steady and true. The 




THE COUNTRY SPREADS AWAY ON EVERY SIDE 



16 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




A GLINT OF QUIET POND, DEEP WITH CLOUD SHADOWS 



Psalmist must have seen the mountain 
from a blueberry pasture when he wrote, 
"The mountain shall bring peace." 

But let's not go after blueberries in 
huge quantities. That makes it no 
longer a sport, but a business. It was 
that which spoiled blueberrying for 
Cornelia. Uncle David had been in- 
vited to visit us. When he made his 
appearance he carried with him a crate, 
— thirty-two quarts. Cornelia gasped. 
Cornelia seized paper and pencil, and 
leaning hard on the table divided thirty- 
two by three. Then she regarded me 
fiercely. "What, do I have to pick ten 
quarts of blueberries?' 1 

"Oh, no, of course not," I palliated. 

"You know very well I hate to pick 
over three." 

"Yes, I know." 

" But we can't let Uncle David go off 
there alone. He's our company." 

And Cornelia would not stay back that 
morning we started off to Derby Hill. 
Purposely, I kept away from Cornelia 
after we reached the hill top. But three 
hours later I stumbled upon her very hot 



and ruffled. She was on her eighth quart. 
"What are we getting out of this?" she 
demanded straightening her hat. 

"Why, a day out-doors," I told her, 
"and this lovely old hill with its colt- 
cropped grass, and the big willows, and 
the porcupine straddling one spongy 
limb, and the balsams, and the cellar 
hole, with its graceful willows, and the 
views of the mountains — ■" and then I 
did the only thing it was safe to do — fled. 

Or when the sun is low and your shadow 
is as was Alice's length in the court scene 
and you have no particular duty till the 
supper bell sounds, it is good to step out 
to the near-by pasture with your pail. 
In the late afternoon light, bushes, grass, 
trees have taken on the beauty of plush. 
From somewhere sounds a thrush's solo. 
By the road below a blue-shirted farmer 
drives past, his day's work done. Grandpa 
Franchot is letting down the bars for the 
cows. 

Berries displayed in city markets are 
poor, unadvantaged relatives of these 
you gather yourself. They are low in the 
baskets, but lower yet in vitality. In 



THE MAYOR OF NANCY 



17 



comparison, the country blueberry is 
clean, honest, wholesome, unpretending, 
enduring till you reach your journey's 
end; not wilted with fatigue, like the 
aristocratic, delicate raspberry, which 
cannot travel except in exclusive numbers 
and easy conveyances; not unneces- 
sarily wasting its life forces like the wild 



strawberry; not disappointing you later 
with a rusty, even seedy black coat, when 
you believed it clothed in jet satin; 
lending itself to many delightful uses, — 
dumplings, muffins, pies, but best of all, 
when the jar is opened next winter, 
bringing back all the charm of the dear 
old South Pasture. 



The Mayor of Nancy — The Old Capital of 
Lorraine — And How He Fed His City 

By Blanche McManus 



PERSONALITY and a Purpose: 
Here is a worthy form of recon- 
struction for France that is being 
overlooked, but which I am in favor of — 
the reconstructing of personalities of the 
war period. So vast was that event that 
it temporarily overwhelmed the indi- 
vidual. Now we may expose the single 
stitches in the pattern of the wonderful 
web of resistance that bound France 
solidly together before the advance of 
the enemy. 

The mayor of Nancy, who instigated 
and inaugurated the first monument on 
French soil to mark the memory of three 
fallen Americans at Bethelmont, repre- 
sents one of these stitches. 

Monsieur Gustave Simon was mayor 
of the old Lorraine capital throughout the 
war. Lorraine is the recovered lost 
child of France, and the adopted child 
of America, since our soldiers received 
their baptism of fire in this old French 
province, that, in the spaceof five hundred 
years, gave Jeanne d'Arc and the 
American doughboy to the saving of 
France and civilization. 

To have been the war-time maire (the 
title is prettie ■ when Frenchified) of a 
city of a hundred and twenty thousand 
inhabitants, which at the time was but 
a dozen miles or so from the then German 



frontier, shelled on fifteen occasions by 
enemy long-range artillery, eighty odd 
times by aeroplane attacks, and twice 
by Zeppelins, carried with the honor great 
and unusual responsibilities. 

The chief of these responsibilities was 
in the matter of food supply. Napoleon 
discovered that an army fights on its 
stomach. Had he been as great a cook 
as he was a general, he might have gone 
further and discovered the law that the 
round world turns on its stomach. 

The morale of the Nanceens, through 
nearly five years of hell-fire, was re- 
markable, and of a high degree, even 
beside the stoic fortitude of neighboring 
war-shattered municipalities of the fight- 
ing zone. The high concert pitch of the 
resistance of the civil population of this 
old ducal city of Lorraine was undoubt- 
edly kept thus tuned up by the intelligent 
and devoted efforts of its mayor, who 
sought to keep the food supply of the 
city up to the same concert pitch under 
abnormal conditions of transport and 
production. 

Nancy's mayor was one of the few in 
France to foresee the high prices of food, 
and its probable scarcity, away back in 
the first months of the war, when actually 
prices were below the normal, by reason 
of the dislocation of consumers, when a 



18 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



short war was still thought of. No 
provision was being made, generally, for 
economies, and France was still eating 
from the same menu as formerly. Mon- 
sieur Simon realized, however, that the 
human motor is in. the stomach, and that 
soon, without care, its fuel would be 
wanting. 

He began first to organize and inten- 
sify the production of the local food 
resources, drew up schedules for its 
conservation, and long before the idea 
had burst from its cocoon elsewhere. 

Nancy is the centre for four famous 
French industries de luxe — pastries, or 
gateaux charcuterie, or pork products; 
macaroons, and hand-embroideries and 
lingerie. Pork is a de luxe product, as the 
French prepare and market it, and 
Lorraine is the district where preserved 
pig appears best in its super-forms. The 
French eat little pork, except jambon 
in its simple dress, or with a sauce 
madere, but they adore (I use their own 
word) the many branches of the gene- 
alogical tree of cochon as they originate, 
and fabricate them under the generic 
term of charcuterie. So much in vogue 



is it that it has its own shops, apart from 
the beef and veal butchers and general 
markets, all over France. 

I can list but a few of these delicacies, 
as found in Lorraine. There are rillettes, 
sealed up in lard in little brown pots, one 
of the most important; there are many 
noted brands of pate de fois gras of pig 
livers, done up in earthenware jars, or 
in glass, but never in tins, but sometimes 
in loaves with a crust around them where 
intended for immediate consumption. 
These rival those pates of the famous 
Strassbourg goose family of sisterly 
neighboring Alsace. 

There are endless varieties of head 
cheeses, some sprinkled throughout with 
slices of savory black trouffles, others 
dotted with the bright green of the 
pistache nut, or again with the white 
kernals of blanched almonds. All are 
rated as the chief delicacies served among 
the hors d'oeuvres of the luncheon menu. 
Then there are the more serious and 
substantial sausages, or saucisse, of all 
styles, lengths and diameters, from one 
to eight inches through, and intended to 
be eaten, sliced, as a preliminary to a 



cm 




THE DE LUXE FOOD PRODUCTS OF NANCY 



THE MAYOR OF NANCY 



19 







ONE OF THE GATEWAYS THAT CLOSES THE PLACE STANISLAS, NANCY 



repast, or as smaller linked sausages, 
which are to be cooked and erved 
hot. 

The macaroons of Nancy have a 
national fame, and are made of a sweet 
almond paste, well browned and crinkly. 
They cost, at any time, in the chic Paris 
restaurants, from twenty to fifty centimes 
apiece. 

These few examples serve as a key to 
indicate that the Nanceens eat well, and 
their paternal Maire was determined 
that they should continue to do so. 

With an eye to the future, after inten- 
sifying home production, he went farther 
afield and established, himself, preserving 
and canning factories in various parts of 
France, remote from the tentacles of war 
needs, selecting those regions w T here the 
raw material was most bountiful. These 
establishments were principally for the 
conserving and packing of meat products 
that especially appealed to the tastes of 
his people. 

Yes, he became a war profiteer, but it 
must not be forgot that as every question 
has two sides, so has every word two 



meanings, a good and a bad one. In this 
case, the word " profiteer " carries the 
good meaning, for when the high prices 
began to rise still higher in the second 
year of the war, the far-sighted mayor, 
having thus forestalled the coming need, 
was, by the means he had adopted, able 
to furnish his home population with 
certain fundamentals, and at much 
cheaper prices than would otherwise have 
been possible, even had the goods other- 
wise been available in the desired quan- 
tities. 

Then later, when the real tug of the 
food problem had to be grappled with, 
the mayor, forearmed by his just esti- 
mates of the situation, was ready with 
his plans all made. The war belt about 
the devoted city of Lorraine was drawn 
close; the allied armies were fighting 
about its gates, firmly entrenched on the 
historic Grande Couronne and on the 
banks of the Moselle. 

Transportation and supplies were 
needed for the armies; civilians had to 
take second place. Local supplies were 
approaching exhaustion, and food must 



20 AMERICAN COOKERY 

come from outside the community, a rare not even when the Kaiser, in all his 

thing in French domestic economy. tawdry glory of ermine and gold eagles 

Nancy is well in the northeast of sat on his white horse, surrounded by 

France, three hundred kilometres from ten thousand of his choicest Prussian 

Paris, a thousand kilometres from the Guards on the heights above the city, 

nearest seaport. A cordon of steel was covetously awaiting the signal to make 

around it; the enemy on one side, the his triumphant entry into the Ducal 

allied forces on the other, its only con- capital of Lorraine. He never entered, 

necting link of railway held by the French but the food did. 

for its army needs. Most of the popu- The people reported to the mayor, 

lation had decided, heroically, to stay personally, as to their needs and deficits, 

by their city to the last, thus, propor- He visited them in their shops, ware- 

tionately, there were far more mouths to houses and factories, bringing encourage- 

feed here than in most of the war-zone ment to workers in half-shattered facto- 

cities. ries, and to the embroideresses heroically 

This was the last black year and a working in dark cellars practically under 

half of the war, when the bulk of the continual bombardment, the school chil- 

most necessary foodstuffs had to be dren at their lessons, masks on their 

brought from abroad, principally from heads, punctuating their devoirs with 

America. The mayor of Nancy was, the sound of exploding shells. He kept 

as usual, among the first of his colleagues ever in touch with his people in a manner 

to make use of these foreign supplies, but peculiarly French, for the mayor of a 

he supplemented them with another of French city is always a patriarch rather 

his own bright ideas. than a politician, a fact which has done 

Marseilles, on the Mediterranean, was much to save France during her struggle, 

at that time coming to be one of the So Nancy's courageous mayor brought 

principal ports of entry for supplies from the capital of Jeanne d'Arc's country, 

abroad. With each consignment, appor- and the "American Sector", through the 

tioned to his city, he arranged to have a war shadow with a better-fed population 

responsible agent, and often went him- than any other of the cities of the front, 

self, personally, to conduct the food stuffs one might almost say municipally plump 

in convoy from the ships and docks, and rosey, with a high morale and a 

through the customs and over a thousand wonderful record for endurance and 

kilometres of changing lines of railway, fortitude, even among those cities of the 

from salt water to his inland capital and war zone that were also undergoing their 

its warehouses, which he was at all times martyrdom for the good of the world, 

able to keep well stocked. This was at This was due to the foresight of its 

a time when all the road-and-rail trans- mayor, who is a good business man, but 

portation was tied up in all manner of who might be described even more 

political and military knots, and his appropriately as a "good provider." 

attitude was unique in this decidedly The capital of Lorraine of the Dukes 

civilian service. is now as nearly in clover as any of the 

The result was that there were no French cities, and its mayor is now 
delays en route, no side-tracking in enjoying his peace furlough and well- 
freight yards for weary, hungry months, earned rest in his villa on the Riviera, at 
as was so often the case, no salvaging the small, but charming and altogether 
along the way, as was also happening chic resort of Valescure, a suburb of 
so frequently in other cases where the Saint Raphael on the Mediterranean; a 
vital matter of food was involved. place which, if. you care to know any- 

In this way there was never any dreary thing more about, you may by asking 

waiting in food lines in the city of Nancy, any of the boys of the "Yankee Division," 



THE LILIES OF THE HOLY LAND 



21 



especially, and hear them pass out its 
praises, as a result of so many having 
passed that way after the signing of the 
armistice. 

It is a big, commodious house, this of 
the mayor of Nancy, camped on the 
maquis of the Esterel Mountains, over- 
looking the Mediterranean, shaded by 
parasol pines, with a red-tiled rooftree 
and a surrounding garden of palms and 
orange and olives, the sea glinting, off 
in the distance like sapphires minted with 
turquois and sprinkled with gold dust. 

All lovers of good food, and who is 
not, will like, I am sure, to have given 
them here the menu of a dinner which 
was recently served in this Riviera villa, 
which rejoices in the historic name of 
Sainte Baume, on the occasion which 
celebrated the maire of Nancy's return 
to his southern rest house on the "Coast 
of Blue." 

MENU 

Hots d'Oeutres: Including naturally those deli- 
cacies of Lorraine, pates and -pate de fois 
gras, as well as the black and green olives 
of the Riviera country round about. 

Fish: — Loup, the principal fish of the Mediter- 
ranean, fully three feet in length, garnished 
with small red langoustes (a sort of femin- 
ized lobster) and rosy ecrivisses (which we 
should ticket as shrimp), posed on squares 
of oven-browned toast and served with a 
sauce blanche made up with tender, golden 
hued mussels, or moules. 

Entree: — Filet de Boeuf (which can only be 
described as roast tenderloin, owing to the 
fact that the French cuts of meat are en- 



tirely different from those of our own 
cuisine). This garnished with various boiled 
vegetables, known to the French as the 
dure varieties, such as carrots, turnips, 
parsnips, etc., cut into small geometrical 
patterns and further supported by green 
peas of no violent hue, but au naturel, and 
potatos, nicely rounded to the size of small 
marbles. I always find the handling of 
vegetables by the French chef both inter- 
esting and amusing. 

Roast: — Chicken, stuffed with a mince, a fine 
ham and bread stuffing, highly seasoned 
and accompanied by an escarol salad, with 
the usual native French dressing, which is 
never anything but the virgin oil of Pro- 
vence, wine vinegar, a dash of garlic and 
pepper and salt, the whole, particularly the 
heart of the young garlic, giving the gout 
so beloved by all gourmets. 

Dessert: — Here was the piece de resistance, a 
gateau made from an ancient receipt of 
Lorraine. It might be styled a pudding, 
or yet again even a cake, or even a pie 
would not be inappropriate. Composed of 
thin leaves of pastry, called in France a 
"thousand leaves," stacked up in flaky 
sequence with interlinings of sweet fillings, 
reminiscent of a cheese cake. Over the 
whole was poured thick whipped cream. 
Cream of itself is a great delicacy in the 
French cuisine. There were also the famous 
macaroons of Nancy, in all their tooth- 
someness, to show that they, too, had sur- 
vived the rigors of war in triumph, thanks 
to Monsieur le Maire. 

As an accompaniment there were, of course, 
the famous wines of France, beginning with 
the vin gris of Lorraine, through solid 
Burgundy to a bottle of the gold-capped 
famous vintage of Champagne. This last, 
in which to drink the Mayor's health. 

We must admit that the evidence all 
goes to prove that the mayor of Nancy 
was a good provider. 



The Lilies of the Holy Land 



Sturdy and straight in rank, 

Stood the full-eared corn; 
The Master passed that way, 

Faint with hunger, and worn. 
While His weary friends sought shade 

From the noon-tide's sultry heat, 
He took of the ripened grain; 

Blessing it, bade them eat. 

In the untilled meadow near* 

The gentle lilies grew; 
Tauntingly asked the corn: 

"What use to Him are you?" 
It was a cruel thrust; 

Each lily, flushing red, 
Swaying upon her stalk, 

Hung low her grieving head. 



The Poet Christ arose, 

And suddenly espied 
The trembling scarlet cloud. 

"Behold! Behold!" He cried. 
"Our mightiest, richest Prince 

Could not such glory win 
As clothes these wayside flowers, 

Which toil not, neither spin!" 

His fingers, light, caressed 

The drooping clusters there. 
"Lift up, lift up your heads, 

Ye lilies, blooming fair! 
Each, in his separate field, 

Honors the Master best. 
The corn has given Me strength; 

Your beauty gives Me rest." 

— Edgyth Babbitt. 



The Community Kitchen — Promise or Menace? 

By Percival B. Walmsley 



COMMUNITY kitchens have been 
discussed lately in Canada, and 
the Canadian Women's Business 
Club of Toronto brought up the subject, 
definitely, in a debate on the question, 
whether these new arrangements would 
be beneficial to Toronto. 

It is interesting to notice the argu- 
ments, as set forth in a report of the 
debate. One lady, who spoke in support, 
explained that the community kitchen 
would not be a restaurant nor a deli- 
catessen store. It would be a scientific 
institution that would bring to the poor 
man the expert dietitian, such as the 
rich man could afford. It was claimed 
that the scheme would save two-thirds 
of the kitchen labor in the home, and a 
sharp contrast was drawn between the 
old regime, where the tired husband came 
home to the tired wife and an overpower- 
ing smell of boiled cabbage, and the new 
way, by which every member of the 
family could enjoy the dinner from the 
community kitchen all ready to serve. 

Another speaker, on the same side, 
estimated six hours as the time taken up 
each day in preparing and clearing away 
the three meals, and pointed out that 
such a waste of time was not in a line 
with the policy of conservation and 
efficiency. This orator" argued that the 
idea that a mother and a cook were 
synonymous terms was a relic of bar- 
barism. The mother is infinitely greater 
than the cook, and she can be an in- 
finitely better mother, if she is not a cook. 
Furthermore, there would probably be 
more marriages, if there were community 
kitchens. 

The advocates of the community 
kitchens, however, did not have it all 
their own way, though some peculiar 
arguments were advanced against the 
scheme. The idea seemed to be that 
the preparation of the meals was a sort 



of home industry, which ought not to 
be taken away from women. If one 
might say it without irreverence, they 
seemed to reverse the lesson of Martha 
and Mary. They would keep Martha 
cumbered about with much serving, and 
maintain that she and not Mary had 
chosen the better part. But, of course, 
the debating ladies did not put it so 
crudely. Instead emphasis was laid 
on the satisfaction every woman should 
feel who takes a lively interest in her 
own housework, including the prepara- 
tion of the meals. If this interest were 
taken away, most women would become 
"drones." A curious argument, but 
one that paid a great compliment to mere 
man's culinary powers, was that as nearly 
all the good cooks have been men, — and 
this would probably be the cise, if the 
community kitchens were established, — 
the result would be that the men who are 
at present responsible for the high cost 
of food-stuffs, would have the whole 
situation in their hands, from start to 
finish — a sort of man-monopoly. The 
same speaker tried to scare the audience 
by suggesting the danger of the dishes 
and containers carrying germs, though 
whether this would arise from the care- 
lessness of the clever men-cooks, or 
whether they were to be introduced 
between the community kitchen and the 
home, was not stated. As a clincher, it 
was declared that it was "Prussian" to 
want to commercialize the kitchens, and 
that, if this were done, all the "poetry" 
would be taken out of that phase of 
housework. 

The concluding speaker on the negative 
side took a high line. She dwelt on the 
value of home life, and its effect upon 
national life, asserting that the home was 
what gave 'stability to the nation, and 
that it was the husband and wife, working 
side by side, that gave stability to the 



22 



ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES 



23 



home. It was a sort of extension of the 
phrase "where wealth accumulates and 
men decay," to "where ease accumulates 
and women decay;" and, of course, the 
same evil consequences were to be looked 
for. In fact, though it seems a terrible 
thing to have to relate, this speaker 
pointed to the United States as a "hor- 
rible example" of the deterioration of the 
home life, due to women not doing their 
part in the home, and demanding too 
much freedom. 

The lady judges of the debate, not- 
withstanding all these appeals to the 
emotions, decided in favor of the affir- 
mative, that community kitchens would 
be beneficial to Toronto, which naturally 
implies they would be useful in other 
cities. Unfortunately there is no refer- 
ence to any summing-up of the arguments, 
and, perhaps, they did not give out any 
particular reasons. 

It may not, therefore, be out of place, 
if I set forth my own ideas. Because a 
good thing may be abused by the few is 
not a sufficient reason for withholding 
it from the many. Jeremy Bentham's 
maxim, the greatest good for the greatest 
number, should hold good here. Further- 
more, it is not compulsory. The wife 
who delights in cookery in her own home 
will not be ousted from her place by the 
cooking range. Again, it does not take 
the wife or family out of the home. It 
may rather tend to keep those there who 
might otherwise give «up the home for 
hotel or boarding-house life, through 
inability to cope with the increasing 
difficulties of housekeeping. Let the 



woman with no children, or few children, 
go on as before, if she desires, but let 
her not stand in the way of relief to her 
over-burdened sister. 

The community kitchen would be a 
great boon to the wife who is not strong, 
or in cases of illness in the family, espe- 
cially when it is the mother who is ill, 
and in the period of maternity, when the 
mother may be away from the home. 

Again, it would be a great convenience, 
if friends came to stay for a while. Extra 
cooking for guests is the barrier to many 
pleasant interchanges of visits. But, 
above all, it would be an immense relief 
to the mother with several children. She 
would be better able to care for the house, 
the children and her husband, with this 
load taken off her shoulders. She could 
tackle the pile of stockings in daylight 
instead of taking them up wearily at the 
end of a hard day. Other mending of 
clothes would also be done, and sometimes 
the making of garments for the children. 
The woman who was clever with needle 
and sewing machine would soon make 
very profitable use of the time and energy 
saved from cooking. Another very im- 
portant consideration is the cost of fuel 
for cooking. The individual stove must 
use up more fuel per pound of food cooked 
than when the cooking is conducted on a 
large scale. With the present shortage 
and high wages of domestic help, most 
women are agreed that some very radical 
change is necessary to cope with the 
situation, and, in this extremity, the 
deus ex machina may be the community 
kitchen. 



Adapting the Diet to the Times 

By Kurt Heppe 

WITH the increasing scarcity of the best part of her time bending over the 
domestic labor, the question of cook stove, and yet, this is the very con- 
drudgery in the household is dition we appear to be approaching, 
becoming acute. How to keep the house attractive, the 
No woman of refinement cares to pass table supplied with appetizing viands, and 



24 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the members of the household in perfect 
health, has been a problem since Adam; 
and yet in summer the consummation of 
this task is not impossible. 

In order to achieve the desired result, 
the family must be gradually (very 
gradually) weaned from some of the hot 
dishes, and these should be replaced, as 
the summer advances, by unfired food. 

This procedure is not only in confor- 
mity with the laws of hygiene and diete- 
tics, but the results will be found to be 
manifold and surprising. 

It has long been the aim of eminent 
practicing dietitians to induce housewifes 
to compose their menus in such a way that 
vegetables, fruits and cereals preponderate 
over meat rations. 

And reference to these aims has never 
been as timely as just now. 

In order to arrive at the desired results, 
we should take nature for our guide, and 
use, in our summer dishes, the various 
products that nature supplies us with; 
and we should prepare these products in 
as natural a manner as possible. 

In the process of cooking a great many 
of the mineral salts and vitamines are 
lost, particularly if the cooking be done 
according to the precepts of the conven- 
tional French kitchen; this accepted 
standard, also, has the disadvantage of 
removing from our food those elements 
that provide a healthful peristalsis and 
furnish matter for our teeth to exercise 
upon. 

If we once admit these defects, then 
we must arrive at the conclusion that 
natural foods, in their natural state, or 
in as near a natural state as possible, 
must be most wholesome. 

Opposed to this conclusion, on the 
other hand, are the findings of many 
doctors, that delicate persons can not 
stand the violent action of some foods in 
their natural state. 

This admission, however, is simply an 
indication that we have drifted away from 
a natural mode of living, and have become 
so effeminate that we can no longer 
suffer the action of foods which in the 



beginning furnished the material in 
accordance with which our bodies de- 
veloped their present form. 

It must be evident to the thinking 
person that the human organs adapted 
themselves to the matter which was 
available to them for nourishment. 

According to the law of least resistance, 
which undoubtedly governs the growth 
and development of all living beings, our 
digestive organs took on their present 
shape only after having developed from 
inferior and less adaptable conditions. 

Through the facilities offered by civili- 
zation, and through a misguided dietetic 
expansion, the lines of least resistance 
became non-resistant, and humanity slid 
into the slough of food-confusion, from 
which today all humanity is suffering. 

This fact, however, is not widely 
recognized. 

If any French chef, or any leading 
society lady, should be questioned upon 
the subject, her opinion undoubtedly 
would be that the only improvement . 
in our cookery needed is novelty, and 
still greater complication. 

And yet, the complication already 
existent is exactly what furnishes the 
living conditions of our dietetical doctors 
and institutions. 

According to the frank admission of 
such eminent specialists as Dr. Lorrand 
Scholtz and many others, their practice 
would dwindle and disappear, if the 
general public would adopt the few 
rational advices they have been offering. 

However, all these specialists are not 
in the least afraid of losing their liveli- 
hood, because they have found that the 
average human will change his habits 
only when his well-being becomes seri- 
ously endangered. 

But the essence of the teachings of 
these doctors, and the means by which 
they would gently guide their patients 
back to a rational diet, is: To live simply, 
to eat frugally, to exercise in the open 
air, and to sleep restfully. 

The latter point again is entirely 
dependent upon the kind of food the 



ADAPTING THE DIET TO THE TIMES 



25 



patient consumes. If he lives simply, 
his body will have a chance to devote 
some of its strength to the work of 
elimination, instead of devoting all of 
its power to the task of digestion. 

It must be remembered that foods that 
keep the organs of the body busy for 
hours, tire these organs the same as 
muscular work would; and where the 
organs are tired a great amount of sleep 
will be necessary to let them recuperate. 

It becomes, therefore, imperative to 
avoid overexertion of the digestive tract, 
if we would give our bodies a chance to 
do reorganization work. And this over- 
exertion can only be avoided by eating 
foods that are easily digested, and fur- 
nish thorough peristalsis, and which 
induce us to chew and masticate assidu- 
ously, and in this manner insalivate and 
prepare the food for digestion. 

Another point to be considered, partic- 
ularly in the summer, is, that food should 
be adapted to the season. 

During the hot weather, therefore, the 
menu should be so composed as to fur- 
nish few heat elements, and the tem- 
perature of the food, itself, greatly 
contributes to the temperature of the 
body. 

Therefore, we should endeavor to 
induce the members of our households to 
compose their menus for breakfast of 
milk, or fruit juice, fresh, stewed, cold, 
or soaked, dehydrated fruit, cold breads, 
butter and, perhaps, a cold cereal with 
cream and sugar. 

Such a breakfast will be found to leave 
the consumer cool, refreshed, in good 
form for exercise, and will permit him to 
return to the table at luncheon with an 
appetite that augurs good health and a 
sunny disposition. 

The housewife, on the other hand, will 
avoid the task of cooking, and save 



herself a great deal of dishwashing; 
should she be in the happy position of 
being able to afford a servant, then she 
can employ this assistant for other work. 

If she has to do her work herself, she 
will find that her dishes need but very 
little cleaning, and that this cleaning can 
be done without alkali-soap, and in this 
way she will preserve the texture of her 
hands. 

For luncheon, cold salads, such as 
tomato salad, fruit or vegetable salad, 
all thoroughly mixed and dressed with a 
good dressing, and served with corn, rye, 
or whole-wheat bread and plenty of 
butter; a glass of milk with an egg 
whipped into it and a pinch of sugar, or, 
for a change, a fish salad, or a cold cut, 
with iced chocolate, and fresh or stewed 
cold fruit, will be found to be deli- 
cious. 

This system of setting the table will 
make it possible for the lady of the house 
to prepare those foods which must be 
cooked in quantities, and keep the re- 
maining part in the refrigerator, where 
they will keep fresh until they are again 
used. Should they threaten to sour, 
then all that is required is to reheat them 
and cool them again. In this way rice 
can be kept indefinitely, and what is 
better for a« summer dinner than a cold 
cup of broth, bread and butter, cold rice 
with cream and sugar, head-cheese, 
green salad, fruits, nuts and cold tea? 

The menu can be changed daily, and 
a constant stream of surprises can be 
supplied. 

The housewife will soon notice that the 
members of her household will look better, 
feel better, sleep better and develop a 
sweeter disposition, and she, herself, will 
find time to devote to more agreeable and 
more congenial tasks than cooking and 
dishwashing. 




Lessons in Foods and Cookery, 
with Simple Appliances 

Foods Ready Without Cooking 

By Anna Barrows 

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University 



DURING the cold weather many 
teachers in rural schools have 
combined an excellent lesson 
about foods with a hot luncheon cooked 
over the school-room heater. Even where 
that is not feasible some useful lessons, 
without any actual cookery, may be given 
in connection with the summer festivals. 

Though the school may have closed 
before the celebration of July 4, such a 
lesson as is suggested here might be 
given in advance to aid pupils in choosing 
their refreshments outside of home more 
intelligently. 

The circus, with its attendant stands, 
or the county fair, or the itinerant ice 
cream vender of the city streets, all have 
a part in shaping the food habits of 
children. 

Why should we wait for a formal course 
in cookery and food values until the food 
habits of pupils are formed? Is it not 
more reasonable to set them thinking of 
the cost of living, from the time they have 
a penny to spend for whatever they may 
choose ? 

At least, we may teach them something 
of the relative values of foods without 
reference to " calories. " Yet many chil- 
dren grasp the idea of the "unit of meas- 
urement" quicker than their mothers. 
This, perhaps, is because they are just 
learning other measures — the quart and 
peck, the yard and rod. 

During the war period, one boy in a 
city school came home to his dinner, and 
afterwards asked his surprised mother, 
"How many of them calories did I get." 

In these days of costly foods, the 
teachers may help the homes by showing 
the children what foods give us most for 
our money, and teaching them that we 



may learn to eat what is best for our 
health and strength. 

Thus far in this series we have been 
studying foods that are staples, now we 
may consider some that many people 
think they eat merely for enjoyment. 
Some mothers look upon desserts as 
extras, designed to please and not to 
nourish. But a custard pudding or pie 
usually will supply double the energy 
producing material that would be gained 
from an average soup or stew. 

There are a few articles likely to be 
available at every celebration or summer 
festival. Supposewe consider three items, 
which are representative types. These 
may be taken up in school together, or 
one at a time. Even little children in 
primary grades may be led to see that 
some foods will "stay by" longer than 
others. The old illustration of the stove 
or engine may help us here. The differ- 
ent values of paper, wood, and coal in 
keeping the house warm, may serve to 
impress the fact that, in some cases, 
chocolate or peanuts would be more sus- 
taining foods than oranges. 

Let us imagine that somebody came 
and asked us to go to the circus and 
mother had no time to put up a luncheon 
for us, but gave us money to buy what 
we chose from what was to be found on 
the stands around the grounds. 

Perhaps the dealers had sold most of 
their supplies before we came, and all 
that was left for us to buy were water- 
melon, bananas, and peanuts. Which 
would you choose? How much would 
you want to take the place of a sandwich, 
such as mother would have given you ? 

Suppose it was a very hot day, would 
that make any difference in your choice? 

26 



FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING 



27 



Along these lines there is a chance for 
the trained teacher, even though she 
knows little of cookery, to arouse dis- 
cussion, which will show her how foods 
are administered in the homes of the 
individual children, and this may throw 
light on their conduct in school. For 
purposes of illustration, canned tomatoes 
would serve as well as the watermelon, 
since both are over 90 per cent water, but 
these may be used at any season. 

The watermelon is a favorite with most 
children, and affords an opportunity for 
a little lesson in geography and commerce. 
Do they grow in your garden? Why 
not? What does a whole watermelon 
cost? Can we eat it all? What is the 
cost, then, of the part we do eat? 

Why does it cost so much? What 
would it cost if it grew in this town? In 
this way pupils may be led to see that 
transportation costs for food as it does 
for themselves. That the true cost of 
any food must take account of freight, 
of refuse or by-products, and of the labor 
involved in producing the finished pro- 
duct; that perishable foods will always 
cost more, because some allowance must 
be made the dealer for the risk of loss. 

These facts must be given in different 
words to children of the different grades, 
of course, but the underlying thought of 
comparison of values may be implanted 
early in connection with foods, when the 
wearing quality of clothing would have 
no interest. 

In some localities it may be possible, 
by shares of one or two cents a pupil, 
to buy a whole watermelon, and study it 
from various sides; color contrast of the 
green, white and pink, relative propor- 
tion of each, weight and number of 
reasonable portions, etc. 

Some mother, near-by, may be willing 
to lend scales, and thus a more effective 
lesson can be given in weights, in general, 
than by the blackboard alone, aside from 
the interest in the melon. 

In the study of any article of food 
children should be encouraged to tell all 
they know, partly for self-expression, 



and that they may see how little and, 
often, how inaccurate their knowledge 
really is. Then they should be sent to 
the dictionary, encyclopedia, or to any 
one in the vicinity who is acquainted with 
the subject. 

Since the North cannot compete with 
the South in raising watermelons, the 
subject would naturally be handled in a 
totally different way in the two sections. 

Texas is one of the leading states in 
the production of this fruit, and its annual 
yield would provide its inhabitants with 
several melons apiece. Georgia and all 
the states across to Kansas find profit 
in this crop. Yet the distance to markets 
is so great.that producers only get some- 
where about five cents apiece for melons 
that cost fifty cents or more at a fruit 
store in the North. 

Some farmers devote most of their 
watermelon crop to producing seeds, as 
thus they earn more than from the sale 
of melons, for a single melon may yield 
seeds worth ten to twenty cents. 

The United States Department of 
Agriculture has made careful experiments, 
which show that it is possible to make a 
delicious table syrup from surplus water- 
melons. There is only about 7 per cent 
of sugar in the melon, but it is easily 
pressed out. 

Ten melons, weighing twenty-five 
pounds each, will yield about the thirteen 
gallons of juice necessary to make one 
gallon of the syrup. 

If the watermelon is only 7 per cent 
sugar, that means there is one teaspoon- 
ful of sugar to about fourteen of water 
(and fiber), or that it would take fourteen 
to fifteen pounds of watermelon to yield a 
pound of sugar. 

Compare cost of sugar and the cost of 
the melon. Would it pay us here to buy 
melons to make into syrup or sugar? 
Where children are familiar with the 
making of maple syrup and sugar, useful 
comparisons may be made. Let older 
children work out relative costs, including 
time and labor, of the cane sugar or 
molasses, and maple, etc. 



28 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



It would not be profitable, therefore, 
to pay such prices as we must pay for 
foods that come a long distance and use 
them in ways that might be right where 
they were abundant. 

Since we have paid a high price for 
this melon, can we do anything with the 
rind and seeds, which are too tough for 
our stomachs? 

Some one may suggest the sweet pickle 
or preserve, made from the melon rind, 
and the children might start it after the 
sweet centre has been served, and co- 
operate with some mother in its com- 
pletion. The pink portion may be scooped 
out in cone-shaped portions with a 
tablespoon, (these are pretty, to serve,) 
and leave the rind whole, ready to cut 
in fancy shapes, if desired. Or some of 
the older girls might carry on the whole 
process, keep account of added expense 
for spice and sugar, actual labor, and sell 
the finished product at market prices. 
Thus the importance of the use of by- 
products could be taught. 

Is there any use for the seeds? Would 
any animal eat them? What does that 
indicate regarding the digestive capacity 
of such creatures, compared with our- 
selves ? 

Has any one here ever seen a necklace 
made by stringing seeds of other plants? 
Some one may have had one sent from the 
tropical countries. The seeds of the 
musk melon, not so hard, have been used 
to ornament various articles. 

Often the teacher, who is not familiar 
with the customs and crops of her district, 
will do better to let such a lesson shape 
itself by allowing the children to tell what 
they know and to ask questions, than by 
following a formal lesson plan. 

The watermelon has been taken be- 
cause it is a subject of interest to most 
children. The fact that it is imported, 
instead of raised in the neighborhood, 
lends it a special interest that the potato 
might not have. 

The point is, that history, commercial 
geography, etc., may be best taught by 
means of attractive foods. Moreover, 



even little children may be guided in 
choosing foods. 

If we are very, very hungry, should we 
choose sweetened water, if that were en 
the table, or a good sandwich? And the 
watermelon is really little more than 
sweetened water in a pretty form, and 
with a good flavor. Lemonade, well 
sweetened, may be more nourishing than 
the melon. 

On the stand where we saw the melon, 
there might also be some bananas and 
peanuts. Would these be any better 
than the watermelon to keep us from 
being hungry? 

If so, there must be some good reason, 
— perhaps some child may think that they 
are not so wet and juicy as the melon; 
that the melon would take the place of 
water, if there was none that was safe 
to drink, and the bananas might take 
the place of bread and the peanuts of 
butter. Here is a chance to give some 
hints about drinking water. The soldiers 
have used canned tomatoes, where the 
water was not safe, or hard to get. 

It is not difficult to make children see 
the difference in foods so far as water is 
concerned. Here it may be explained 
that, while the melon is more than nine- 
tenths water, the banana is only three- 
fourths water, about the same as the 
potato, which we look upon as a "filling" 
food. Do not talk in percentages to 
children who have not worked with 
decimals. Every child has seen a pie 
or cake cut in quarters. 

The peanut has about one-tenth water, 
and in the form of peanut butter, much 
less. The peanuts alone would make us 
very thirsty, and the two would be more 
like the banana in their proportion of 
water. 

Both the banana and peanut may be 
studied in much the same way as the 
melon has been outlined. • 

(Mrs. Hill, the editor of this magazine, 
has prepared a very useful booklet on the 
banana, its growth and uses.) 

The United States Department of 
Agriculture has a bulletin on the peanut. 



FOODS READY WITHOUT COOKING 



29 



Chocolate has about the same calorie 
value as peanut butter, and may be 
chosen, if preferred. 

With very few utensils, it is possible 
to prepare a salad from bananas, rolling 
sections in chopped peanuts, and serving 
on lettuce with a salad dressing, which 
may be bought, or brought from some 
home. Or they may be sliced, and 
blended with some red fruit-jelly, to eat 
with cookies or wafers. Another plan 
would include a few oranges and the 
pulp of the orange and the sliced banana 
may be put in the cups of the orange 
skins. 

With even as limited an outfit as a 
sauce pan, measuring cup, alcohol lamp, 
spoons and a mold, sliced bananas may be 
molded in some of the prepared acid 
gelatines. 

By borrowing a freezer from some 
mother, with a small assessment on each 
pupil for milk and sugar, fruit, ice and 
salt, a banana ice-cream may be made 
without any fire. Ripe bananas will 
mash and blend with the cream or milk 
■during the freezing, even if not rubbed 
through a strainer. 

The lack of fat in the fruit may be 
■shown by the fact that it does not make 
.grease spots on paper, etc., with which 
it comes in contact, as meat, butter and 
■cheese would do. Moreover we seem 
to like cream or custard or salad dressing 
with it, just as we want butter or gravy 
with our potato. 

The potato and banana are similar in 
several respects, and the latter is some- 
times baked or fried like potato to eat 
with meat. The calorie value of the two 
is not very far apart. 

The peanut apparently came to Amer- 
ica from Africa, and its use was mainly 
confined to the southern states, until the 
Civil War extended the demand for it. 
'The world war has taught us more about 



its value as a source of fat, and as a 
partial meat-substitute. It must not 
be mistaken for a true nut, but is a 
relative of the bean. Children in the 
northern belt of the United States should 
be given a chance to grow a few peanuts, 
even if they do not mature, to see their 
curious habit of forming underground. 

Let young children count the peanuts 
purchased for a given sum and see how 
many they get for one cent, etc. Measure 
peanuts before and after shelling, and 
explain why the shelled nuts of all sorts 
are increasingly popular. They occupy 
less space in transportation; in the shops 
are more convenient. What should we 
do with the shells? W T here raw peanuts 
can be obtained, let each child taste one, 
and give reasons for cooking. 

With a borrowed food-grinder, having 
a special plate, some peanut butter may 
be made and used alone, or with chopped 
raisins or dates for sandwiches, or be 
diluted with lemon juice or vinegar and 
water as a dressing for banana salad. 

Thin wafers or saltines may be used 
for sandwiches. Or the "butter" may- 
be added to fine sugar and a little water 
and used as a frosting on the wafers. 

Let the pupils plan a peanut dinner. 
Soup is possible, like that from beans or 
peas. A loaf, much like a meat-loaf, is 
often made from peanuts and crumbs. 
They may be used for a salad dressing 
or put in it. Peanut butter may be 
used for cookies, or chopped nuts may be 
sprinkled over them. 

Several of the preparations suggested 
might be used as refreshments for a 
mothers' meeting, or for a school pic- 
nic. 

A beginning in training community 
leaders is made when children are shown 
how to work together in organizing a 
picnic, planning for place, transportation 
and food. 




30 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c 
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Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 

Summons 

In the twilight of the vale 

The birds are mute, 
Save where the lone thrush plays 

His silver flute. 

So tenderly he sings 

His evening tunes. 
The heart is touched with dreams 

Of vanished Junes. 

In the twilight of the years 

Sweet voices fail, 
But love sings in the heart's 

Sequestered vale. 

And summoned from the past, 

Old dreams return, 
And loved ones hasten back 

Where home lights burn. 

— Arthur Wallace Peach. 

PROFITEERING 

CERTAINLY these are abnormal 
times. The prices of all things are 
more than abnormal, — in case of many 
things they are outrageous. After the 
war is over it would seem a poor time to 
advance the price of anything, even that 
of labor. It indicates that there is 
something rotten in Denmark, and means 
trouble in the future. Now is time to 
face the other way. Our present ad- 



ministration is urging people everywhere 
to cultivate thrift and economy. Would 
they might set the example by practicing, 
as well as preaching, a bit of thriftiness. 
Already our churches have observed a day 
to enjoin upon everybody the urgent duty 
to find occupation for returning soldiers. 
All this is well and good and commend- 
able, but how can those who have been 
pushed to the limit of expenditure and 
have nothing left give to others or provide 
places for them? Up to the present 
time we can recall little or nothing that 
has been said about the immorality and 
wickedness of profiteering. 

Now, right here is the sore spot, the 
place to begin to reform. Why does not 
our secular and religious press speak out 
openly and frankly and say where real 
reform should begin? The only way to 
resume specie payment is to resume. 
The only way every one can have occu- 
pation is to cut out profiteering and 
reduce prices. Every form of activity 
must return to a normal basis. Could 
the profiteer be required to cut his prices 
to the standard of legitimate gain at 
once, the long-suffering consumer would 
be benefited just so much and the so- 
called laborer, we are all laborers as well 
as consumers, could then reduce the 
price of labor and, in consequence, count- 
less kinds of business, now at a standstill 
on account of prohibitive prices, both of 
labor and materials, could resume opera- 
tion, and work for everybody would be 
more plentiful. 

DIETETIC COURSE HELPS TO 
SOLVE SERVANT PROBLEM 

WOMAN'S independenceof hermaid 
is the goal of the new classes in 
dietetics, which are being organized 
throughout the' country by the Red Cross. 
Armed with measuring cup and spatula^ 
flour and sugar, and all other ingredients 
whose uses they learn in the class, women 
are being taught freedom from cooks, 
delicatessen stores, and indigestion, under 
the tutelage of experts. 

"I can't get a maid and my husband 



EDITORIALS 



31 



has lost ten pounds while we were board- suit, that of those for evening wear a 



ing, I simply must learn to cook for him," 
complained the young bride of a soldier, 
who had just been mustered out of the 
army, as she asked admission to the 
class. 

No army cook or hired chef will surpass 
this soldier's wife when she has completed 
the five-weeks' course of fifteen lessons. 
The plans are a surety that any women 
taking the courses soon will know how 
to purchase and care for food, to prepare 
many simple and even more "dressed up" 
dishes, and to plan a menu that will have 



mere beggarly #25 each. As it is im- 
possible to believe that an ornament of 
New York society owned threescore 
"hand-me-downs," he most probably 
sent to the Belgians his newest garments, 
and kept only his older wear, a conclusion 
connoting not only a charitable dis- 
position, but a human fondness for old 
clothes, a trait common to all good men, 
and perhaps the most difficult of many 
masculine oddities for women to under- 
stand. 

After all, by what standards shall we 



due respect for the pocketbook and the judge the sartorial needs of masculine 
palate. Flora McFlimseysr There are few sub- 

Most housewives are unfortunately jects upon which men, even in the same 



quite ignorant of the necessities of a 
kitchen. They complain about the monot- 
ony of home cooking, and of the lack of 
nutrition in restaurant food. But what 
really is wrong is that the spirit of cook- 
ing has not been instilled into them. 

The basement of the Whitelaw Reid 
home in New York is fitted with cooking 
tables of light brown wood, tiled sinks, 



walk of life, so widely differ. How many 
American statesmen are the heroes of 
the story which represents a husband, 
who, returning to his solicitous and 
fastidious wife after a short absence, and 
seeking to give an account of the linen 
so carefully packed by her own hands, 
proved to be wearing the seven shirts 
intended to assure him a daily changer- 



small iron ranges, and well-stocked pan- Those too much neglected letters of the 



tries. Many women are taking the 
course with an impersonal view. One 
wishes to become a dietitian's aid for 
farm service, and another wants to be 
able to come to the fore in case of another 
emergency like the influenza epidemic, 



Blaine family contain a contemptuous 
reference to President Arthur's mere 
three dozen coats, but to the Blaines, 
Chester Allan Arthur probably figured, 
not as a political accident, but rather as 
the usurper of a better man's rightful 



which demanded the services of many place. How many coats sufficiently equip 



more women than were available to 
prepare food for patients. — a .r. c. 

MEN AND CLOTHES 

ACCORDING to the inventory of a 
recent decedent's estate, a New 
Yorker,. he left to posterity about three- 
score suits of clothes, six of them for 
evening wear. At this news one's mind 
reverts to the bare Belgians, but con- 
cerning the dead nothing unless good, 
and, besides, the gentleman may have 
sent threescore other suits to clothe the 
nakedness of Albert's heroic people. 
Indeed, the appraisement lends itself to 
this thought, for the average valuation 



a President of the United States? If 
photographs may be trusted, good Mr. 
Lincoln must have possessed but the 
single dismal black "frock" in which he 
so often appears, a garment always sadly 
in need of pressing, and one that must 
have caused Mrs. Lincoln many a mo- 
ment of anguish. As to the traditional 
American well-dressed man, the palm 
must be given to a railway magnate said 
to have had a pair of trousers for every 
day in the year, but he died in a mad- 
house. 

Efforts have been made to set up 
clothes as a social shibboleth. A British 
aristocrat declined a challenge to a duel' 



of the morning clothes was but #15 per upon the ground that the challenger was 



32 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



not a gentleman, as it was known that 
he did not wear three shirts a week. 
Before the price of laundering became 
well-nigh prohibitive, the British man of 
fashion held two shirts a day to be a fair 
allowance. Sir John FalstafT, on the 
other hand, prayed for cool weather 
when he went to war, because he carried 
but three shirts in his kit, and he assures 
us that in all the rest of his company there 
was but a shirt and a half. The English- 
man who felt that we must "cut" our 
moderately remote ancestors, should they 
come to life and claim acquaintance, was 
probably right, for literature bristles with 
evidence that our forebears, of whatever 
rank, had standards as to dress, dining, 
bathing, that fall far below our modern 
notions of delicacy, and even of sanitation. 
As usual, it is to the wisdom of the 
east that we must turn for counsels of 
moderation in all things, even dress. 
The prayer, "Give me neither poverty 
nor riches, feed me with food convenient 
for me," applies to other matters besides 
those with which Mr. Hoover has re- 
cently concerned himself. Again, what 
humor and what deep significance in the 
story of the sick Sultan who was to be 
cured by merely wearing the shirt of the 
happy man. That fortunate person was 
found after long search of the realm, 

but, behold, he had no shirt! 

The Boston Herald 

BLESSED BE THE PLODDERS 

IT is better to be a steady, reliable 
plodder, than to be a brilliant, but 
erratic and undependable genius. The 
plodder wears better and in the end ac- 
complishes more and better work. True, 
it may take him longer to do it than his 
brilliant brother, but the work is likely 
to be well done. The genius makes a 
great sensation and receives plaudits and 
rewards for his occasional brilliant ex- 
ploits, but unless he is well-trained and 
well-balanced, he is apt to go up like a 
rocket and come down like a stick. 
The genius is too apt to work only by 
fits and starts, or when inspired, or in 



the mood, and there are long stretches 
when he is idle or useless. You never 
know when he will be in the mood to work. 
He doesn't know himself. Waiting for 
geniuses and brilliant men to get under 
way is tiresome and exasperating. Then 
the plodder shows his true worth. He 
says little, but plugs away patiently 
and steadily, and by his very persistence 
and endurance he accomplishes note- 
worthy results, far outpassing the me- 
teoric efforts of the genius. 

The plodder not infrequently develops 
the best kind of genius: the genius for 
hard, sustained, patient labor. He fre- 
quently illustrates the advantage of being 
a tortoise rather than a hare. If you 
feel that you are only a plodder, and have 
none of the attributes of genius, do not 
despair. Do the best you can; develop 
and use all of such talents as you have; 
and you will be likely to go farther and 
fare better than your brilliant fellow. 

In the nature of things, the world needs 
more plodders to keep the machinery 
running, just as we need more farm horses 
than we do trotters. A good work horse 
is more highly esteemed, lasts longer and 
is more useful than the swiftest race 
horse ever bred for exhibition purposes. 
If you are a plodder, aim to be the best 
in your class, and your reward is sure. 

a. j. s. 

Will readers please notice that this, 
the June-July issue, is the first number 
of a new volume of American Cookery. 
This is the only publication of the kind, 
as far as we know, that carries a complete 
annual Index and Title Page. From 
every point of view American Cookery 
is always worthy of Preservation and 
Continuation. 



Home 

A tiny house; a plot of earth; 

And thou, and I, ah, these make home! 
Speak not of poverty nor dearth — 
A tiny house, a plot of earth 
Are ample cause for thanks and mirth. 

For bliss we need no further roam. 
A tiny house; a plot of earth; 

And thou, and I, ah, these make home! 
— Blanche Elizabeth Wade. 




STRAWBERRIES, SUGAR AND CREAM 



Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 

meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour 

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour. 



Hors D'Oeuvres, Italian Style 

IN a hors d'oeuvre dish of three or 
four compartments, dispose in one 
compartment pulled bread, in an- 
other delicately sliced, smoked tongue, 
and stuffed olives in a third. Small 
plates should be in place on the service 
plates, and the hors d'oeuvre dish with 
silver utensils for the smoked tongue and 
the stuffed olives. This is passed for the 
first service of the meal. 

Sardines as a Hors D'Oeuvre 

Cut Boston brown bread in rounds; 
cut out a thin round one-eighth an inch 
from the edge; fill this open space with 
sardine flesh, pressed through a sieve, 
seasoned with lemon juice, salt, paprika 
and Worcestershire sauce, mixed to- 
gether. Set a slice of hard-cooked egg 
at the center, and a row of capers around 
the egg. 

Calf's Liver Forcemeat 

Rub the inner surface of a frying pan 



with a clove of garlic cut in halves; cut 
a pound of calf's or lamb's liver in cubes 
and cook them in the pan with some 
melted bacon fat and half a shallot. 
Cook these, stirring often, until well 
cooked, then let them cool; add a few 
cubes of veal or cooked breast of chicken 
and pound in a mortar, then press through 
a sieve. If you can add, while pounding, 
the chopped trimmings of truffles, the 
flavor will be that of the imported pate. 
This forcemeat may be added (not too 
much, just enough to give the right 
flavor) to chicken or lamb croquettes, or 
to anv sort of creamed dish, or to line 
a shirring dish, or china ramekin, in which 
an egg may be poached. 

Cream of Spinach Soup 

Scald half a cup of milk, a slice of onion 
and three slices of carrot in a double 
boiler ten or fifteen minutes; add one- 
fourth a cup or more of cooked-and- 
chopped spinach and press through a 
sieve. Have ready one cup and one- 
half of thin white sauce, made of two 



J3 



34 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper; 
add the puree; mix while heating and 
serve at once. If too thick add a little 
hot milk. 

Spinach or Chard with Broiled 
Lamb Chops 

Cook well washed (no sand) spinach 
in the water that clings to it after washing. 
Drain and chop, season with salt, pepper, 
butter or a little cream, and stir over the 
fire until very hot and quite dry; dispose 
on one side of a serving dish and set 
about four carefully broiled, or breaded- 
and-fried, lamb chops, Frenched, on the 
other side of the plate against the spinach. 



small ones, cut them lengthwise into 
quarters, remove the seeds and peel off 
the green skin. Cut them into pieces, 
two inches long and one inch thick, and 
put them in a stew pan with water, half 
a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Let simmer until nearly done, 
then drain off the liquid and turn 
the pieces of cucumber on a clean 
dish. 

Take a large, fresh cocoanut, remove 
the whole of the white flesh, rasping it 
into a bowl; over this pour a cup of 
boiling water, leave it for fifteen minutes, 
then pour off the liquid. This is the best 
thing used in the curry and must be left 
until the last of the cooking. Return the 
raspings to the bowl and pour over them 




CHARD WITH BROILED LAMB CHOPS 



Shoulder of Lamb, Saute 

Cut a shoulder of lamb in pieces for 
serving, having them about an inch thick. 
Cover with boiling water, let boil about 
five minutes, then simmer till tender. 
Skim the pieces from the broth, roll them 
in flour, mixed with salt and pepper, and 
let cook in a little hot fat, bacon or salt 
pork till lightly browned on one side, 
then turn to brown the other side. Make 
a sauce with the broth, salt and pepper. 
This makes a change from the ordinary 
boiled or stewed lamb. 

Fricassee or Curry of 
"Bombay Ducks" 

Take a good-sized cucumber or two 



two cups of boiling water; stir well and 
let the liquid stand half an hour, then 
strain and squeeze dry. 

Put one-fourth a cup of butter or 
other fat into a stew pan, and when it 
melts mix into it a white onion, shredded 
into rings. Move the onions in the fat. 
and two tablespoonfuls of flour, half a 
tablespoonful of tumeric powder, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
a little cinnamon and clove, and when 
well blended, little by little, the last 
cocoanut infusion; when this is boiling, 
add, by degrees, a cup of thick chicken 
or fish broth, a tablespoonful of sliced 
green ginger and three green chillies, cut 
into Julienne-like strips. Set into a bath 
of boiling water while you add the cooked 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 






. 




s 


' li 


•■.' ^ 




— " " '^ 







CROWN OF RICK WITH CRFAMFD CHICKEN 



cucumber, and as many pieces of Bombay 
duck as are required. 

Crown of Rice with Creamed 
Chicken 

For a crown mold holding one pint of 
material, blanch one (scant) cup of rice, 
then put over the fire to cook in one 
quart of liquid, chicken broth in whole 
or part; add also half a teaspoonful of 
salt. When done, butter the mold and 
into it pack the rice; set the mold on 
several folds of paper in a dish of boiling 
water and let cook in the oven until the 
filling of the crown is made ready. 
Melt one-fourth a cup of butter, or other 
shortening; in it cook one-fourth a cup 
of flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, and a scant pint of liquid, 
broth and milk, one or both; unmold 
the crown on a serving dish; fill the 
center with the meat and serve at once. 

Potato Border with Vegetables 
and Broiled Beef 

Have ready boiled potatoes, mashed 
and seasoned as for the table. Beat 



thoroughly and press into a well-buttered 
mold to fill it full. Have ready, also, 
tiny beets, carrots and turnips, cut in 
small balls, all cooked tender and sea- 
soned generously with salt, pepper and 
butter. Fill the center of the ring with 
the vegetables and set small rounds of 
beef tenderloin, nicely broiled, on the top 
of the potato; serve with a bowlful of 
brown sauce. 

Brown Sauce 

Melt four tablespoonfuls of fat; in it 
cook half an onion and half a carrot, cut 
fine; add four tablespoonfuls of flour and 
half a teaspoonful, each, of pepper and 
salt; stir until bubbling, then add two 
cups of beef or veal broth and stir until 
boiling. 

Mock Terrapin 

Have ready half a calf's liver (or les- . 
The liver may have been broiled or 
braised with vegetables. Cut the liver 
into small cubes. Put three tablespoon- 
fuls of light-colored, clean, bacon fat into 
a frying pan; when hot add the liver. 




POTATO BORDKR WITH VEGETABLES \M) RROII.Fl"> BEEF 



36 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



dredged with two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of fat and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Stir and cook 
until the flour is blended with the fat; 
then add one cup of stock or water and 
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 
Stir until boiling; add one-fourth a cup 
of cream, two hard-cooked eggs, cut in 
cubes, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
If preferred milk may be used in the 
place of the broth or hot water, and two 
well-beaten eggs in the place of the 
cooked eggs. 



pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and five teaspoonfuls of baking powder; 
cut in three or four tablespoonfuls of 
shortening and use milk in mixing to a 
soft dough. Turn the dough on to a 
floured board, knead slightly, and cut 
into rounds. Bake on a greased plate 
about eighteen minutes; serve hot with 
strawberries, sugar and cream. 

Boston Brown Bread 

Put one-half cup of corn meal, one- 
half cup of rye meal, and one-half cup of 




EACH OF ABOUT THE SAME FOOD VALUE 



Oatmeal Biscuit 

Sift together two-thirds a cup of 
pastry flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt; add tw T o-thirds a cup of oatmeal and 
two teaspoonfuls of shortening; mix the 
shortening into the flour and oatmeal, 
and add milk, a little at a time, to form 
a soft dough. Pat them into shape with 
a wooden spoon; set them into well- 
greased individual pans or cups, and 
bake in a very hot oven. Note that the 
oven must be too hot to hold the hand 
in it. 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Sift together two cups and one-half of 



whole-wheat flour with one teaspoonful 
of soda, and half a teaspoonful of salt into 
a bowl and sift, adding the bran in the 
sieve if there be any, taking care, mean- 
while, to crush and sift any soda in the 
sieve. Add a scant half-cup of molasses, 
one cup of buttermilk or sour milk, and 
mix thoroughly. Put three-fourths of 
the mixture into a brown bread mold 
and set the cover in place; it need not 
be pressed down tight. Put the rest of 
the mixture in a small mold, it need not 
be covered, and let the bread steam 
constantly three hours. Fill the steamer 
to the rack with cold water. Heat 
quickly to the boiling point, and do not 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



37 



let the water cease boiling for three hours. 

Potato Puree 

In boiling potatoes some cooks think 
it improves the potatoes to add a little 
cold water, now and then, to check the 
boiling. They are done when a fork goes 
through them easily; drain and dry in the 
hot sauce pan in which they are cooked; 
add butter generously, salt and a little 
milk. Make the mixture a little more 
moist than for the usual mashed potato. 
Rub over the bottom of the sauce pan 
with the cut side of a clove of garlic before 
you mash the potato into it. Soup stock 
may be used in place of milk. The puree 
Js used as a vegetable with meat or fish, 
and is thought to have a foreign taste. 

Peas Cooked in a Jar 

Put a pint of green peas into a fruit 
jar; add a tablespoonful of butter, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoon- 
ful of powdered sugar, a dozen mint 
leaves and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
black pepper. Close the jar secure and 
immerse it in a stew pan with plenty of 
boiling water; temper the jar before 
adding the peas, etc. Let cook briskly 
half an hour; examine and if not done 
cook longer. Young peas should cook 
in half an hour. 

Rice Timbale with Strawberries 

Put half a cup of rice and two cups of 
cold water over the fire and bring quickly 




BOSTON BROWN BREAD 

to the boiling point. Let boil vigorously 
five minutes, then .drain and rinse in cold 
water. To the blanched rice add two 
cups of milk and half a teaspoonful of 
salt and let cook until the rice is tender, 
adding more milk if the rice becomes too 
dry. Add the grated rind of an orange 
or a lemon or half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract and two tablespoonfuls, each, of 
butter, sugar and cream; mix thoroughly, 
then fold in the white of an egg, beaten 
very light. Have ready an oval char- 
lotte mold or a timbale mold, thoroughly 
buttered and dredged with granulated 
sugar. Press the rice into the mold to 
fill it evenly. Set on several folds of 
paper, in a pan of hot water, into the oven 
to remain ten minutes. Let stand out of 
the water five minutes to settle, then turn 




BAKING POWDER BISCUIT 



38 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



on to a serving dish. Pour around the 
rice a pint of preserved strawberries, or, 
use fresh strawberries, hulled, washed 
and mixed with sugar. 

Coffee-and-Tapioca Trifle 

Have ready two cups of hot, clear 
coffee (strain through linen if necessary); 
add half a cup of pearl tapioca and let 
cook over boiling water, stirring occasion- 
all}-, until tender. Pearl tapioca will take 
at least two hours cooking. The minute 
and other quick-cooking tapiocas will 
cook in half an hour. When done add 
half a cup of sugar and turn into glass 
cups; serve with cream slightly whipped. 



chill on ice. L nmold and serve on a bed 
of cress, seasoned with French dressing; 
serve with French or mayonnaise dressing 
in a bowl. For the filling, soften a table- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine in one- 
fourth a cup of cold water, and dissolve 
in half a cup of hot chicken broth; stir 
in one cup of cooked chicken, cut in small 
cubes; when cold add one cup of cream 
with a few grains, each, of salt and 
cayenne. 

Chinese Lettuce Salad, Russian 
Dressing 

Cut Chinese lettuce, crisped by stand- 
ing a short time in cold water, in quarters 




COFFEE-AXD TAPIOCA TRIFLE 



A Fluffy Lemon Pie 

Mix two level tablespoonfuls of sugar 
and half a teaspoonful of salt with one- 
fourth a cup of cold water to pour; then 
pour on three-fourths a cup of boiling 
water and let cook directly over the fire, 
stirring until boiling; add the juice of 
one lemon, also the grated rind, if it 
be not objectionable. Beat the whites 
of two eggs very light, the yolks also 
very light; fold the whites into the 
yolks, then beat into the eggs one 
cup of sugar. Beat the sugar in, one 
tablespoonful at a time, so as to keep the 
mixture very light; bake with two crusts. 

Pekin Salad 

Line an oval Charlotte mold with hot 
boiled rice, and let cool. When cold fill 
the center with a chicken filling and let 



lengthwise, then crosswise; drain and 
dry on a cloth. Set in a salad bowl and 
pour over about a cup of Russian Dres- 
sing. Or, serve the lettuce on individual 
plates and the dressing in a bowl. 

Russian Dressing 

Beat half a cup of French dressing (six 
tablespoonfuls of oil, two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and paprika) gradually with an 
egg-beater into half a cup of mayonnaise 
dressing, then beat in two tablespoonfuls 
of chili sauce and fold in one-third a cup 
of whipped cream, with fine-chopped 
green or red pepper, onion juice, cucum- 
ber pickle and parsley to taste. 

Caramel Custard Renversee 

Cook one-third a cup of sugar in a 



SEASONABLE AXD TESTED RECIPES 



39 




CARAMEL CUSTARD RENVERSEE* 



small sauce pan over a quick fire, stirring 
rapidly until the sugar is dissolved and 
turned a caramel color. Take a tin 
mold, holding about three cups, and as 
soon as the sugar is melted turn it into 
the mold. With a towel in both hands, 
tip the mold from side to side to coat the 
inside with caramel. Beat four eggs 
until light; add one-fourth a cup of 
sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt and 
beat again; add two cups of milk, mix 
thoroughly and turn into the mold. Set 
the dish in a pan of boiling water on a 
folded cloth, and let cook without the 
water boiling until the custard is firm in 
the center. When cold unmold on a 
serving dish. 

In the illustration, the custard is 
shown cooked and turned from the mold 
with the syrup around it; also, the 
empty mold and a part of the custard 
baked in a small glass cup with a cloth 



below and boiling water around it are 
shown. 

Cocoanut Meringues 

Beat the whites of two eggs very stiff; 
add slowly half a teaspoonful of sugar 
and continue the beating and adding 
until one-fourth a cup of sugar has been 
used. Fold in one-fourth a cup of 
granulated sugar, a few grains of salt, 
two teaspoonfuls of rice flour, mixed 
through one cup of shredded cocoanut. 
Shape the mixture in rounds in a tin 
lined with light brown paper (not para- 
ffine), and let bake in a very slow oven 
until lightly browned above and below. 
For cocoanut cakes see Query Xo. 4068. 

Ribbon Cake 

(To Serve 65 or 70 People) 
Cream one cup of butter; gradually 
beat in four cups of sugar, then the 




COCOANUT MERINGUES, COCO.WTT CAKJ S 



40 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



beaten yolks of eight eggs, and, alter- 
nately, two cups of milk and seven cups 
of pastry flour, sifted with ten teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder. Lastly, beat in 
the whites of eight eggs, beaten very 
light. To one-third of the mixture add 
one teaspoonful, each, of cinnamon, 
mace and nutmeg, one pv»und of raisins, 
cut up in small pieces, one cup of figs, 
fine-chopped, and two tablespoonfuls of 
molasses. Bake this in a pan \6\ x 12 
inches; bake the white part in two pans 
of the same size. Put the three layers 
together with apple jelly, having the 
dark layer in the center; spiead boiled 
frosting over the top. 

Iglehearts Lemon Queen Loaf 

\ cup butter 1£ cups of Iglebea t 

1 cup sugar Brothers Sw.ris- 
Grating of lemon rind down flour 

4 egg-yolks i teaspoonful soda 

2 tablespoonfuls 4 egg-whites 

lemon juice 

Cream the butter; gradually beat in 
the sugar, lemon rind, egg-yolks, beaten 
light, lemon juice and flour, sifted with 
the soda; lastly, beat in the egg-whites 
and turn into a round, tubed, buttered 
pan about seven inches on the bottom. 
Bake about forty-five minutes. Cover 
with boiled frosting, using part of it 
tinted green and pink to ornament the 
cake. 

Frosting for Iglehearts Lemon 
Queen Loaf 

Put in a double boiler one egg-white, 



one cup of sugar, and three tablespoon- 
fuls of cold water. Set over boiling 
water and let cook seven minutes, while 
beating constantly with a Dover egg- 
beater. When cooled a little spread a 
part over the cake, then use a part tinted 
leaf-green, and a part tinted pink to 
finish the decoration. 

One Cup Malted Milk 
Chocolate 

Put two teaspoonfuls of malted milk, 
and two teaspoonfuls of instantaneous 
chocolate into a cup and mix thor- 
oughly; mix to a paste with a little cold 
water, then fill the cup with boiling water, 
beat well and it is ready to serve. For 
some tastes a little more sugar may be 
desired. 

Apricot Sponge 

S jften one tablespoonful of granulated 
gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water 
and dissolve in one cup of sifted apricot 
pulp and juice made hot for the purpose; 
add one-fourth a cup of sugar and stir 
until dissolved, then when the mixture 
begins to become firm, beat in the whites 
of two eggs, beaten very light. Serve 
in glass cups with cream, sweetened a 
little and beaten very light, on the top 
of the mixture in each cup. Prunes are 
good served in the same way. Too much 
gelatine should not be used. The dish 
is at its best when not quite firm enough 
to hold its shape 




IGLEHEARTS LEMON QUEEN LOAF 



Menus for One Week in June 



Breakfast 

Wheatena, Top Milk 
Beauregard Eggs 

Doughnuts 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets Cooked en Casserole 

Potato Balls Browned in Fat in Oven 

New French Turnips 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Toasted Uneeda Biscuit 

Canned Apricot Sponge, Whipped Cream 

Supper 

Cheese-and-Bread Pudding 
Strawberries, Thin Cream 
Tea 
Rolled Sponge Cake 



Breakfast 

Hominy Cooked in Milk, Top Milk 

Bacon 

Small Potatoes, Baked 

Bran Muffins Stewed Prunes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Scrambled Eggs, Green Peas 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Sugared Pineapple 

Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Chicken Broth with Rice 

Salmon Loaf, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Cheese 



- 
f. 

r 

> 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 

Asparagus on Toast, Melted Butter 

Whole Wheat-and-Ryenieal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Spinach, French Dressing 
Cold Boiled Tongue 
Parker House Rolls 

Prunes Stuffed with Xuts, 
Whipped Cream 

Dinner 

Veal (Cutlets left over) Souffle. 

Tomato Sauce 

New Beet Greens 

Old Potatoes, Mashed 

Individual Strawberrv Shortcakes 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Thin Cream 

Salmon-and-mashed-Potato Cakes, Fried 

Radishes 

Popovers 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Stewed Lima Beans (dried) 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Spinach 

Dinner 

Fried Chicken 

Turkish Pilaf 

Buttered Carrots 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Strawberrv Ice Cream 



3 
> 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Top Milk 

Creamed Dried Beef 

White Hashed Potatoes 

W T affles, Amber Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Lobster or Salmon Salad 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Strawberries 

Cottage Cheese 

Toasted Crackers 

Dinner 

Boiled Salmon, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Green Peas 

Boiled Early Potatoes 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Rhubarb Pie Cheese 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 

Sranibled Eggs 

Ryemeal-and- Wheat Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Green Pea Soup 

Uneeda Biscuit 

Cinnamon Toast 

Amber Marmalade 

Tea 

Dinner 

Baked Mackerel 
Scalloped Potatoes 
New String Bean^ 

Graham Bread 
Pineapple Sponge 



3 

> 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Top Milk 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 

Creamed Potatoes 

Breakfast Corn Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

New York Baked Beans 
Beet Greens 
Boston Brown Bread 
Baked Indian Pudding 

41 



Dinner 

Stewed Pigeons, Brown Sauce 

Stewed Lima Beans (dried) 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 

Cabbage Salad 

Rhubarb Pie 



< 

P 
11 



< 
o 



Q 
en 
W 



< 

Q 

H 
< 
en 



Simple Well-Balanced Menus for One Week 

in July 



Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat Blueberries Top Milk 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 
Coffee Baking Powder Biscuit Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Leg of Lamb (yearling 7 lbs. serve 20) 
Mint Sauce, Brown Sauce 
New Potatoes Baked with the Meat 

French Turnips 

Head Lettuce and Sliced Prunes, 

French Dressing Toasted Crackers 

Red Raspberry Ice Cream 

Supper 

Lettuce-and-Shrimp Salad 

Rye Biscuit (reheated) 

Graham Cracker Cake 

Cream Cheese Apple Jelly 

Breakfast 

Wheatena, Dromedary Dates, Cream 

Creamed Finnan Haddie 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Spider Corncake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Egg Timbales, Tomato Sauce 

String Beans 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Rice Boiled in Milk, Chocolate Sauce 

or Sugar and Cream 

Dinner 

Lamb Pie, Biscuit Crust 

Green Peas 

Lettuce and Garden Cress, 

French Dressing 

Raspberry Charlotte Russe, or 

Raspberries, Sponge Cake, Cream 

Breakfast 

Corn Puffs, Blueberries 

Hashed Lamb on Toast 

Radishes 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Raspberry or Blackberry Shortcake 

Toasted Crackers 

Cheese 

Dinner 

Broiled Sword Fish 

New Potatoes, Boiled 

Beets, Boiled and Buttered 

Quick Yeast Rolls 

Sugared Pineapple 

Cookies 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 

Berries 

Mock Terrapin on Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Clam or Fresh Fish Chowder 

Uneeda Biscuit 

New Cabbage 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Pineapple Sponge 

Dinner 

Broiled Lamb Chops 

Mashed Potatoes (old) 

Spinach with Sliced Eggs 

Caramel Custard Cookies 

Breakfast 

Wheatena, Top Milk 

Stewed Apricots 

Flanks of Chops (cooked tender) and 

Potato Hash 

Broiled Bacon 

Blueberry Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Squizzled Dried Beef 

Creamed New Cabbage with Cheese 

Spanish Cream 

Dinner 

Fowl, Steamed and Browned in Oven 

Mashed Potatoes 

Carrots, Lyonnaise Style 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream 

Breakfast 

Puffed Wheat, Sliced Bananas 

Broiled Bacon, Broiled Sliced Potatoes 

Hot Cross Buns 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Macaroni with Tomato and Cheese 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Graham Bread 

Raspberry Jell-0 

Dinner 

Fresh Codfish Chowder 
Pickled Beets 
Summer Squash 
Apple Pie, Cottage Cheese 



Breakfast 

Cold Jellied Wheatena, 

Hot Stewed Figs 
Cold Boiled Tongue, 

Sliced Very Thin 
White Hashed Potatoes 
Bran Muffins 
Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Cream of Spinach Soup, 

Croutons 
Canned Corn Pudding 

Hot Rolls 

Chocolate Malted Milk 

Cocoanut Meringues 



Dinner 

Steamed-and-Browned Fowl, 
Giblet Sauce 
Mashed Potatoes 
New Cabbage, 

Creamed with Cheese 
Lettuce, Russian Salad Dressing 
Peach Pudding, Delmonico 



42 



Buffet Suppers for Lodges, 


Boards of Trade, etc. 




I 




in 




Doughnuts 




Coffee in Urns 




Cheese 




Bouillon in Urns 




Coffee 

T T 




Potato Salad 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Unbuttered Rolls 




II 




Olives Pickles 




Sliced Ham Sandwiches 








Mayonnaise of 




IV 




Chopped Chicken Sandwiches 




Ice Cream Strawberries 




Cheese-and-Sliced Nut Sandwiches 




Cake 




Coffee Cocoa 




Coffee 




Four Course Banquets for Lodges, Boards 




of Tra 


ide, 


etc. 




i 




in 


(i) 


Halves of Grapefruit 


(i) 


Strawberry-and-Pineapple Cocktail 


(2) 


Turbans of Fresh Fish with Oysters 


(2) 


Fresh Fish Croquettes, Sauce Tartare 




Hot House Cucumbers 




Parker House Rolls 


(3) 


Planked Sirloin or Swiss Steak 




Olives Salted Nuts 




with Vegetables 


(3) 


Swiss Steak, 


(4) 


Fruit Cup 




Brown Mushroom Sauce 




Coffee 




Onions and Potatoes 
Romaine or Lettuce Salad 




II 


(4) 


Strawberry Ice Cream 


(1) 


Strawberries, Powdered Sugar 






(2) 


Creamed Fresh Fish in Ramekins 




IV 




Potato Diamonds with Peas 




(3) 


Broiled Lamb Chops 
Macaroni (tomato, cheese) 




Salpicon of Fruit in Cups 




Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 


Creai 








(4) 


Baked Alaska Ice Cream 




Jellied PhiladelphiaRelish, Jellied 




Coffee 




Baking Powder Biscuit 



43 




Food Hints for June-July 



By Janet M. Hill 



DURING the summer months it is 
well to plan for as many outdoor 
meals as possible. Easily trans- 
ported, light, wire frames, that may be 
set up over a wood fire, make possible the 
cooking in the open air of almost any- 
thing edible. For baking a few biscuits, 
a portable oven may be set on the frame, 
but the principal use made of the frame 
will be as a broiler for bacon, chops and 
fish, boiling vegetables, roasting corn, 
baking griddle-cakes and potatoes, and 
toasting bread. To be sure, when going 
away for a week, or even a day, a basket 
of cooked food is always a welcome addi- 
tion to the supplies. But even if but 
one meal is to be eaten out of doors, the 
pleasure of that meal is much enhanced 
by preparing at least one hot dish beside 
the pot of hot coffee. Brook trout, 
caught in the near-by stream, rolled in 
meal and cooked in a frying pan in a little 
hot bacon or salt-pork fat, will, with 
bread-and-butter sandwiches and hot 
coffee, make a meal that puts the finish- 
ing touch to a real "red letter" day. 

In ready-cooked meats, boiled ham 
or tongue, sliced thin, if carefully cooked, 
are usually first choice; with these a 
glass of jelly, jam or pickles, potatoes to 
bake, and, for a sweet a few tarts, give 
dishes from which an excellent meal may 
be had. For simpler fare, peanut butter, 
cream cheese, with or without jelly, or 
chopped ham will furnish good sandwich 
filling. Let part of the bread be of some 



coarse variety. Plain rye bread is much 
appreciated; so also is potato salad. 

Early Vegetables 

In June beet greens are plentiful in 
some localities; in other sections of the 
country we must wait for them till July. 
The sugar content of tiny beets gives this 
dish a rather higher nutritive value than 
that of most green vegetables. The 
greens may be eaten hot, or, molded in 
cups with sliced, hard-cooked egg, be 
eaten cold with salad dressing. 

Summer squash vines are usually very 
productive; enough will be left to eat, 
prepared by the usual recipes, if some of 
the smaller ones, three or four inches in 
length, be cut in thin slices, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, egged-and-crumbed, or 
dipped in milk and flour and fried as 
egg-plant. 

French turnips, small and white, cook 
quickly, and are good prepared in slices 
and buttered, mashed and buttered; 
creamed, or, after parboiling, also 
browned in the pan in which meat is 
roasting. 

The asparagus season may be extended 
somewhat into June, when green peas 
will take the place of this well-liked 
vegetable. It is not advisable to buy 
peas for canning. More peas are proba- 
ply spoiled in home-canning than any 
other vegetable; and the work involved 
is more than in the case of most other 
vegetables. Peas do not take kindly to 



44 



FOOD HINTS FOR JUNE-JULY 



45 



the warming-over process as do most 
vegetables; the addition of a few grains 
of sugar will improve them, as will, also, 
a good white sauce, or a salad dressing; 
but, in general, it is best to cook no more 
peas, at one time, than will suffice for the 
meal. 

Young carrots are plentiful in July, 
and are a most satisfactory vegetable. 
As usually planted, thinning the plants 
is necessary; these small carrots, pulled 
from the row, scraped and cut in halves, 
cook in a very few minutes. Set them 
over the fire with one or two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, a little salt and pepper and 
a teaspoonful of sugar; shake vigorously 
until the butter and seasonings are 
evenly taken up by the carrots, and you 
may rest assured that no pieces will re- 
main in the dish, uneaten. Do not allow 
any of these weeded-out carrots, half an 
inch or more in diameter, to go to waste, 
but can all those not needed for the table. 
Blanch them in the usual manner, cook- 
ing about two minutes, then pack in 
sterilized jars. Set these in the canner 
with covers beside them, fill with boiling 
water and let cook till when tried with a 
fork the carrots are ready for the table. 
Adjust the rubbers, first dipped in boiling 
water; fill the jars to overflow with 
boiling water, put on the covers, and 
adjust one wire; let cook ten minutes, 
remove from fire, and fasten the last 
wire. 

The mid ribs of Swiss Chard may be 
used in the same manner as asparagus; the 
green leaves, as spinach or other greens. 

Parsley, sweet basil, summer savory 
and thyme are ready for use in July. 
The parsley will be small and it is well 
to have roots of this handsome biennial 
left over from the previous season for use 
in the early summer. Sweet basil, thyme 
and summer savory may be used green, 
but before they blossom, whatever leaves 
are to be set aside for winter use should 
be stripped from the stalks and dried in 
the warming oven. The leaves of second- 
year parsley should be treated in the 
same manner. 



Fruit 

Strawberries, pineapples, apricots, 
cherries and blueberries are now ob- 
tainable in some one or other locality of 
the country. Strawberry jam or Sun- 
shine strawberries are valuable assets in 
any store-room. To be really palatable, 
canned strawberries require a bountiful 
supply of sugar, and only choice fruit 
should be used. Fresh-picked berries, 
unsuitable for canning or eating from the 
stems, of which most gardens show quite 
a few, heated in a double boiler, strained 
through cheese cloth and the juice 
canned boiling hot in sterile jars, give 
material for an easily-and-quickly made 
strawberry sherbet, ice cream, bombe 
glace or bowl of fruit punch. 

As pineapple, for successful use in 
dessert dishes with milk, eggs or gelatine, 
must first be cooked, canned pineapple, 
rather than the fresh, might be used. 

A cherry pie might be indulged in once 
or twice during the season. This pie is 
made with two crusts; to avoid leakage 
of juice let both crusts lie loosely on the 
plate; lift the first piece of paste from 
the plate after setting it in place, that it 
may contract a little; it will contract 
more in cooking, and it is better in trim- 
ming to let it come a scant quarter of an 
inch beyond the plate than just to the 
edge. Do not fill the paste with cherries 
until after the upper layer of paste is 
ready to set in place. One or two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, scattered over the 
cherries, will thicken the juice a little. 
Brush the edge of the lower paste with 
cold water, and press the edge of the 
upper paste upon it, but keep both lifted 
from the edge of the plate. Cherries 
are easily canned, and make almost as 
good a pie as does the fresh fruit. A 
pie made with fresh cherries requires 
nearly forty minutes of cooking. 

Blueberries are one of the most whole- 
some of berries grown; ripened under fair 
conditions, cooking is not essential, but 
if the season be cold and rainy, or very 
dry, the toughness of the skins will make 



46 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



their use in cooked dishes more desirable 
than would otherwise be the case. 

To make pastry easily, make it in the 
early morning before an open window 
through which a gentle breeze is blowing. 
If preferred hot, reheat in the oven a few 
minutes before serving. Good pastry 
depends upon good flour, choice shorten- 
ing and careful manipulation, but more 
than all else for a successful pie is proper 
baking. The temperature must neither 



be too high nor too low. Too slack an 
oven allows the fat to run from the paste 
before the combination is fixed by the 
heat. Too high heat burns the crust 
almost at once. Fat is one of the best 
means by which variety may be in- 
troduced into the daily food. Thus 
even in June and July do not dispense 
with all frying, sauces and pastry. Do 
not forget to have one blueberry and one 
cherry pie. 



Katherine Helps Her Aunt Ellen 

By Louise Bennett Weaver 



" /^ OOD morning, Katherine, you are 
VJ just in time to help me bake; how 
would you like that?" 

"Oh, Auntie, May I?" 

"Yes, put on that big blue apron, and 
get out that box of recipes in the top 
drawer. I always keep 'a number of 
blank cards in that box, and whenever 
I find a recipe I like, I cut it out and 
paste it on a card. Look under the card 
marked 'cakes,' and get 'Devil's Food.' " 

"Oh, goody, that is such a good cake; 
here it is." 

"All right, put it right up here on the 
shelf, so I can read it easily, and so that 
I won't get anything on it." 

"Behind you, Katherine, get a piece 
of that waxed paper, that comes around 
the bread, cut two pieces exactly the 
size of the bottom of those square cake 
pans. Fit them nicely in the bottoms. 

"Shall I butter the sides where the 
paper does not come?" 

"No, indeed, for I want the cake to 
stick to the sides, and if they are buttered 
the cake will draw away, and not rise 
evenly." 

"That is just the way mother's little 
drop cakes act when she bakes them in 
muffin pans." 

"Tell your mother that I always dust 
my little pans with flour and then the 
cakes do not burn so easily, for you know 
how butter burns, and the cakes come 



out of the pans so nicely this other way." 

"Please get that round-bottomed bowl, 
and the wooden spoon with slits in it." 

"Why the wooden spoon, Auntie?" 

"Because it has a round handle, which 
makes it easier on your hand to stir with. 
Break the eggs, and be very careful 
to get out all of the white, for often that 
is wasted by clinging to the shell and being 
thrown away." 

"Why, Auntie, mother never throws 
away the egg shells, but saves them to 
clear the coffee." 

"How do you know what 'clearing the 
coffee' means, dearie?" 

"How simple, Auntie, don't you know 
that? When mother makes coffee she 
takes an egg shell, all broken up, mixes 
it with her coffee and a little cold water, 
then adds boiling water and lets it boil 
just three minutes, I think, and when it is 
done it looks so pretty and clear." 

"Put the egg-whites in that other 
round-bottomed bowl, then put the 
yolks in that small bowl, for I am not 
going to use them until tomorrow. You 
must always have the egg-whites very 
cold to beat nicely, so put them back in 
the ice box until we are ready." 

"Those egg-yolks won't be any good, 
if you keep them, — mother's never 



are. 



Just wait and see. Beat them up 
thoroughly with a fork, add a table- 



KATHERINE HELPS HER AUNT ELLEN 



47 



spoonful of cold water, and cover them 
with that glass cover, now put them in 
the ice box, and tomorrow they will be 
as good as ever." 

"What will you do with them to- 
morrow, Aunt Ellen?" 

"Well, I can make some salad dressing, 
a custard, a yellow cake, or put them in 
a salmon loaf, but I shall have to wait 
until tomorrow comes. 

"Did you mix the baking powder with 
the flour? I thought our book said not to 
add that, the baking powder, until the 
very last." 

"You are surely an observing little 
girl, Katherine. I always mix and sift 
three times, a pinch of salt, the baking 
powder and the flour. In this way the 
baking powder is so much better dis- 
tributed through the cake, and it will 
rise very much better. Remember 
always to sift the flour once before 
you measure it. 

"Now, while I am adding these dry 
ingredients and the milk, to the butter 
and sugar, which has been creamed, you 
may beat the egg-whites. 

"No, do not use the Dover egg-beater, 
— that is only for the yolks. When I 
want anything, as cream or egg-whites, 
to increase in bulk, I always use that 
spiral whip beater, with all of those little 
wire coils around the outside edge, they 
help to entangle air and that makes the 
eggs beat up much better." 

"Shall I add a pinch of salt to these 
egg-whites?" 

"Surely, always, for that 'freshens' 
them. Give me that vanilla, please." 

"I didn't think that chocolate cake 
needed vanilla." 

"Yes, but it does, — -wait and see if this 
does not taste good. The vanilla brings 
out the other flavors. You beat your 
eggs, and I will beat this cake mixture. 
You know we do not beat the cake after 
the egg-whites are added, for they lose 
some of the air which has been beaten 
in them. All ready, begin. We both 
must use continuous, steady, vigorous 
strokes in beating." 



Auntie, did you forget to attend to the 



oven 



I attended to that, and even regu- 
lated it about three minutes ago. It is 
already now at the right temperature. 
I always start my cake in a moderate 
oven, at first, to give it a good chance to 
rise. After it has been baking for fifteen 
minutes, I increase the heat a little. 
Yes, your eggs are very stiff. See whether 
you can turn your bowl upside down, 
and the eggs will not start to fall out. 
Yes, those are all right, now let them 
stand a minute, while I finish beating." 

"Oh, Auntie, you must not let the 
eggs stand!" 

"Just for a minute, Katherine, then 
they will slip right out of the bowl into 
the cake batter, and you won't even have 
to take a knife to scrap off any from the 
inside of the bowl." 

"I think that is a good idea, for you 
don't waste any, then." 

"When did you add the chocolate?" 

"Just before I put in all of the flour. 
Didn't you see me take some flour and 
put it into the cup to clean out all of the 
chocolate? You know some people waste 
so much chocolate by letting some of it 
stay on the dish in which it is melted. 
Now I will very carefully add the egg- 
whites. There it goes all carefully poured 
into the pans, and I will put the pans on 
the middle shelf of the oven. 

"W T hile that is baking I will mix up 
the sugar, water and a pinch of cream 
of tartar for the icing." 

"What does the cream of tartar dor' 

"It keeps the icing from getting grainy. 
Yes, I mixed it all together, very well, and 
now I must not stir it one bit while it is 
on the fire boiling. When a hair forms, 
when some of it falls from a spoon, it 
will be ready to be poured very slowly 
upon the egg-whites, which must be very 
stiff. Then I will have to keep beating 
it, never stopping until it is cool, and 
then spread it on the cake." 

"Aunt Ellen, mother's icing is some 
times still hot when she puts it on her 
cake." 

Concluded on ■page 62 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Warm Weather Hints 

WHEN warm weather comes, nearly 
every member of the family enjoys, 
besides the usual warm baths, a daily 
cool one — especially the athletic young 
son and daughter — and the towels some- 
times become a laundry problem. A 
sensible way to save the housekeeper's 
time, energy or money, is for each member 
of the family, after his bath, to take his 
own turkish towel to the clothes line, 
pin it up, turn the hose briskly upon it, 
and leave it there to drip dry in the air 
and sunshine. No ironing is needed for 
the ordinary turkish towel, for "rough 
dry" it is ideal for creating the friction 
that aids circulation after a cold bath, 
and a towel hosed and aired by this 
method is clean and wholesome enough 
for several days, before it requires the 
usual hot water and soap tubbing. And 
it does save the housekeeper a great deal, 
besides giving each member of the family 
the satisfying feeling that his own com- 
fort is not making extra work for others. 

If furniture is to be repainted, either 
for the summer home or for a warm 
weather change in the year around home, 
dove gray is a good choice, for it does 
not show soil as quickly as white, is 
dainty and cool looking and harmonizes 
beautifully with all of the summery- 
looking cretonnes. 

Every housekeeper owes it to herself 
to possess at least one very cool dress to 
wear on the most sweltering days of the 
season. White is always popular, be- 
cause it is dainty, comes in thin weaves, 
and is so easy to wash, but for cool looks, 



pale green or blue, instead of rose or 
yellow are a very good choice for one 
little mid-summer house dress. A simple 
design, with a plain skirt, short sleeves 
and a frill trimmed fichu draped over 
the waist, will remain "in style" year 
after year, and donning such a frock 
really means a great deal in "cooling off' 3 
the family at the evening meal, when 
anything unsightly after the fatigue of 
work on a smothering day is the last 
straw. 

A bare, polished table, so cool looking, 
with either a simple crash stringer or 
sanitas cloth mats, is ideal for hot 
weather meals, either indoors or out on 
the porch. 

A Boston fern, the pot tied in frilled 
white crepe paper, is as good a decoration 
for the living-room or dining-room »as 
could be chosen during torrid days. 

Everything having its compensation, 
usually, the housekeeper should take 
advantage of the bright sunshine of mid- 
summer to air and sun such articles as 
will benefit by such exposure. A great 
many cooking utensils — especially tin- 
ware, will keep sweet longer for a fre- 
quent sunning. Linens, stored away, 
because especially prized, may be kept 
from mildew and other forms of rotting 
if aired on one bright day once a year. 
Anything that needs to dry quickly is 
best washed on a hot day, even if it must 
dry in the shade to prevent fading. 
Shampooing one's hair or switch is easily 
done when the air is dry and warm, be- 
cause they dry so promptly. 

To keep the kitchen cool, the house- 
keeper should use a fireless cooker when- 
48 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



49 



ever possible, and serve fruits for desserts. 
To cool the house generally, especially 
where there are concrete walks and drive- 
ways close to the building, wetting once 
or twice daily will cool things off won- 
derfully, because concrete radiates so 
much heat and sprinkling helps cool it 
by the process of evaporation. N. d. d. 
* * * 

"A Dutch Treat Outing" 

DEAR MARGUERITE: 
Hurrah for camp! Just listen 
while I tell you how Helene Moody says 
her family and friends have managed a 
"DUTCH TREAT OUTING" for sev- 
eral summers, with a maximum of fun 
and minimum of work and expense; and 
then play to join MY party and "try 
out" the Moody's plan. 

Helene says they make up a "welcome" 
party to open camp, and then, as no one 
but Helene, her mother and brother can 
stay the whole season, they arrange to fill 
the recurring vacancies with other friends; 
always trying to have from seven to 
twelve in camp. 

At first they rented a furnished cottage, 
for two dollars a day, and "dutch treat" 
fashion divided rent and all other ex- 
penses; and now, since they have bought 
the cottage, flhey manage the same way, 
and the rent money keeps the cottage in 
repair. 

Their cottage is on an Adirondack lake, 
and easily accessible from the train by 
row boat or launch; and Helene says she 
is sure we can rent an adjoining cottage 
this summer. Doesn't that sound in- 
teresting? 

Here is a sample outline to show how 
they divide expenses. 







Individual 


Date 


People 


Rent Me 


als Groc. Sundries 


July 1 


7 


$.28 4-7 


21 


" 2 


8 


.25 


24 


" 3 


9 


.22 2-9 


25 


" 4 


10 


.20 


29 


" 5 


12 


.16 2-3 


36 



Allowing for stock on hand, suppose 
the grocery and incidentals sum up 



320.25. Divide this by 135, and the 
price per meal is 15 cents (this is about 
what it costs the Moodys, gasoline and 
oil for the motor boat included). 

Now suppose I have been in camp five 
days at 25 cents, and twenty days at 
20 cents, and eaten seventy-five meals? 
My bill will be 316.20. Isn't that a 
clever and simple arrangement? 

The work is easily disposed of. They 
choose helpers, and two act as house- 
keepers, two as cooks, two as dishwashers, 
and two as hostesses one day; the next, 
the housekeepers cook, the cooks wash 
dishes, the dishwashers act as hostesses, 
and so on; rotating theiwork so that each 
day's duties are different. Tom and 
his chum bring wood, water and run the 
motor boat. 

"Many hands make light work," as 
the saying goes, and Helene says the 
work is play, just enough to keep one 
from getting lazy! I am sure this is 
true, for Helene tells of the loveliest times 
they have tramping, climbing mountains, 
fishing, playing games and attending 
parties. 

They take a fireless cooker and alcohol 
stove, and buy groceries and home- 
cooked food at the little village around 
the bend of the lake. 

The cooks start the dinner in the fire- 
less, while the others are doing their 
work, and then they are free until dinner 
time for motor rides, reading, fishing or 
gumming. 

I forgot to say they hire a strong woman 
once or twice a week to do the heavy 
work. 

I can't write more, as I must write the 

other girls, but do please decide to go! 

Lovingly, 

Eileen. c. m. 

* * * 

The Ship That Comes In! 

RAIN gushed noisily through the 
gutters, flooded the drain pipes, and 
emptied in great gulping sounds, like a 
hungry man hurriedly swallowing hot 
coffee. Rain beat on the windows, 
tightly closed, like a naughty urchin, 



50 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



playing tick-tack-too on a squeemishly 
moonless night. And Mother said the 
children could not go out to play! . . . 
And they must be quiet till Grand- 
mother's nap was done. Grandmother 
hadn't been very well this week. . . . 
That is how the ships came to come in. 
A lot of ships all well loaded. 

Mother whispered in Eda's ear. And 
Eda brightened. "My ship's come in," 
said Eda. 

"What's it loaded with?" asked 
Mother. 

"It's loaded with A," explained Eda. 
"And A is the first letter of the thing it 
is loaded with, like Apples; only it 
isn't apples," she warned. "It is some- 
thing in this room. It has to be some- 
thing in the room, that is one of the 
rules, and it is something you can see if 
your eyes are sharp," mischievously. 
'It is something a ship can be loaded 
with, and it begins with A. Now guess. 
You can take turns, baby first, and keep 
on guessing, but if any one guesses out 
of his turn, he has to go stand in the 
corner and be the dunce; he's out of the 
game. But the one who guesses right 
becomes the Captain of the next Ship, 
and loads it again, and then we all try 
to guess again. And if there is a Dunce, 
he can come back into the new game, 
and see if he hasn't learned Wisdom. 
Now guess!" said Eda. 

And the children all guessed, and it was 
with excited shout that Robert guessed 
Ashes, about the last guessable A in the 
room, and ASHES it was that loaded that 
strange ship, a queer cargo. So Eda 
turned over her Captain's papers to 
Robert, and Robert loaded his ship with 
H, and what do you suppose that was? 
. . . You may guess, all of you, for it 
was such a hard one, and everybody 
guessed and guessed and guessed, and 
made little inspection trips about the 
room looking for possible 77'j, till Mother 
said the Crew must be all Secret Service 
Agents, and then Grandmother got up, 
her nap all finished, and came in looking 
very fresh and rosy-cheeked, . . . and 



guessed it the first guess! . . . Everyone 
shouted with glee, it was such fun, and 
Grandmother had to be Captain. But 
Grandmother said she wasn't going to 
have such a heavy load as Robert put 
on his ship, it would break her back 
getting it on, she was going to have some- 
thing nice and light. So she loaded her 
ship with F. . . . Now what did Robert 
have on his ship? And what did Grand- 
mother load on hers? 

(H stands for Hardware, nails and 
hinges, and tack-hammers, and andirons. 
F stands for feathers, found in all the 

cushions.) i. r. f. 

* * * 

Dandelion Wine 

GATHER six quarts of fine flowers, 
and look over carefully and wash. 
Place in a large crock and add one gallon 
of cold water and let stand for three days 
and three nights. 

Then pour the contents of the crock 
into the colander to drain. Return 
liquid to crock, and add four pounds of 
granulated sugar, one yeast cake, broken 
up, two lemons, cut up, and let the mixture 
stand three days and three nights, again. 

Then strain the liquid and put into 
bottles. Do not fill the bottles full, but 
leave a space for the liquid to work. 
Tie a bit of cheese-cloth over the mouth 
of each bottle to keep out the flies. 

We find this method superior. The 
dandelion wine is almost specific in 
breaking up a cold and it is convenient to 
put away a few bottles, just to use in an 
emergency. After the wine has ceased 
working, and cleared itself, all that is 
required is to provide each bottle with 
a good cork, well put in, and the bottles 
are ready to store away in the cellar. 

String Beans in March 

Gather four quarts of string beans. 
Wash well and remove the strings. 
Place in a crock and add about two cups 
of table salt. The beans will form the 
brine. 

Cover beans with a plate and put on a 
weight. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



51 



Beans may be added, from time to 
time, till the crock is full, and salt added, 
so as to keep to the proportions stated. 

To freshen the beans, place as many as 
you require in a granite kettle, and fill 
up with water and set on the stove to get 
warm, even hot, and, after the first 
freshening, taste and if still too salt add 
more water and repeat the process. By 
heating the water the freshening is a 
short process. 

When fresh enough add just enough 
water to cook tender, and when done 
add some good cream or generous lump 
of butter and season with pepper. 

This method is superior to dehydration 
and is very little bother. The beans 
come out of the brine as firm and crisp 
as the day they were put down, and have 
a delicious flavor and, by the uninitiated, 
are considered canned string beans. 

We did not open up ours this year till 
the first of March, because we were busy 
using the parsnips that had wintered 
out, but even yet the string beans come 
■out in all their former color and cris- 

piness. f. m. c. 

* * * 

To Preserve the Heart of 
Watermelon 

TO one pound of fruit take one-half 
pound of sugar and the fruit of 
one watermelon; add the rinds of six 
lemons, pared and cut into shreds, and a 
few blades of mace. 

Boil the fruit until clear and then boil 
the syrup until it thickens. Ginger is 
sometimes preferred for flavoring in- 
stead of lemon. 

(Make the blades of mace VERY few.) 

* * * 

One Wage Example 

HAVE you ever considered that the 
domestic servant, one of the most 
adequately paid groups of workers, is 
wholly without organization, or labor 
unions, for the purpose of "collective 
bargaining?" And her wages today, 
under the old and popularly discredited 
law of supply and demand, are astonish- 



ingly high. An inexperienced waitress 
gets 38 a week and her board and room. 
Cooks, 310 and 312, in similar circum- 
stances. Considering all the home oppor- 
tunities which usually attend this con- 
nection, here are wages that compare 
very favorably with the organized and 
unionized collective bargainers. 

On the other side of the water this 
class of helpers still work for deplorably 
modest compensation. Here is a typical 
advertisement in a recent issue of the 
London Times, offering a general cook 
what amounts to 33 a week. 

COOK-GENERAL wanted; comfortable home; 
housemaid kept; wages £30; three adults in 
family; must be respectable, experienced and 
clean; good references required. — Apply after 
6 o'clock. 

Not least of the features in this ad- 
vertisement is the implication that the 
servant will stay in the place at least a 
year. The tenure seems to be as sub- 
stantial there as it is fragile here. 
* * * 

The Best Utility 

IF I were asked to name what, in my 
opinion, is the most desired utility of 
modern life, I would not name the rail- 
road, nor the telephone, nor the electric 
light, nor the automobile, essential as 
they are, but I would name running water 
in the house. This conduces more to 
cleanliness and health and comfort than 
any other improvement that modern 
civilization has brought us. It can be 
had, too, with little cost. There is not 
a farmer of moderate means who cannot, 
with economy, have running water and 
sewers in his home, and this would 
contribute more to the health and com- 
fort of his family than any other im- 
provement. The house fly and the 
mosquito are deadly enemies of our 
people. They can be guarded against 
with slight expense. With running water 
and screens, any home, however humble, 
can be clean and comfortable and healthy, 
and the people who live in 'it will be 
cleaner, more comfortable and more 
healthy. — St. Louis Board of Health. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 4061. — "What is the best way 
to test the Heat of Fat for Frying doughnuts? 
Is it satisfactory to use Beef Suet with Lard for 
frying? If so, what should be the proportions 
of the two fats?" 

Best Way to Test Fat for Frying 

Do not wait until the fat smokes; it 
is then too hot for frying. Drop a 
crumb of stale bread, or bit of doughnut 
dough into the fat; if the bread rises at 
once to the top of the fat, and colors 
while you count 40, or a bit of the dough, 
while you count 60, the fat is of the right 
temperature. We have not found a 
thermometer of much use in the frying 
of doughnuts; the temperature changes as 
new cakes are put in, and one had better 
learn to note the changes in the dough 
than to spend the time reading the ther- 
mometer. Turn the cakes as soon as 
they rise to the surface, and often there- 
after, until done. Some will cook faster 
than others; remove, as done, and drain 
on soft paper. 

Is a Mixture of Lard and 

Beef Suet Satisfactory 

for Frying 

One-third beef suet and two-thirds 
lard are considered by many cooks a most 
excellent medium for frying. The beef 
suet should be cut up in very small pieces, 
and set over the fire in cold water to 
cover. Let cook very slowly on an 
asbestos mat (a double boiler is good, 
but lengthens the time of cooking) till 
all the fat is extracted, then strain. If 
the fat is not to be used at once, it is well 



to return it to the fire to evaporate any 
water left in it, which would otherwise 
cause the fat to mold. 



Query No. 4062. — "We are looking for 
'Ideas' to use in our Domestic Science Ex- 
hibition. Can you not add a few to what we 
already have? We are to call the afternoon 
'A Food-Saving Exhibition.'" 

A Food-Saving Exhibition 
MILK 

1. Show a quart of milk, half a loaf 
of bread and three-fourths a pound of lean 
beef. These are each equivalent in food 
value. 

2. Two quarts and one-half of skim 
milk contains as much protein as a pound 
of round steak. Show these together. 

3. Make each article taste so good 
that no one will leave one mouthful 
uneaten. Fish hash, scalloped potatoes, 
creamed onions. 

4. Show milk ready to be scalded in 
a double boiler, by which flavor is saved, 
no milk wasted, and the dish easy to wash. 

5. Dry all left over parsley and celery 
leaves on an agate or aluminum plate on 
the shelf over the range, and use to make 
cream of celery soup or to flavor other 
soups. 

6. Cornmeal or other mush, cooled in 
a small dish, cut in slices and fried, may 
be eaten with syrup, as a bonne bouch at 
breakfast, or as an entree with meat. 
Show some in the pan and some fried. 

7. As cans of home canned foods are 
eaten, refill the cans with celery, squash, 
broth from fowl or lamb, or with a few 



52 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



aw a 



wluj \i 
smok\j 

kitchen ? 




Crisco comes in this air-tight, 
dirt-proof package. Get it at 
your grocer's. One pound, net 
weight, or more. 




Send 10 cents for this 25 cent book : 
"The Whys of Cooking". Tells 
why Crisco makes foods more 
delicious and digestible. Tells 
how to set the table and serve 
meals. Gives over 150 appe« 
tizing recipes, with many col- 
ored illustrations. Written by 
Janet McKenzie Hill, founder 
of the Boston Cooking School 
and Editor of" American Cook- 
ery." Address Dept. A-6, The 
Procter & Gamble Company, 
Cincinnati, Ohio. 



The house is free from smoke and smell 
when you fry with Crisco — the wholesome, 
modern cooking fat. It is odorless, and 
does not smoke at frying heat. This means 
that you can fry doughnuts, fritters, or 
croquettes in the kitchen, without sending 
a cloud of greasy smoke through the house, 
to settle in curtains and draperies, and 
announce your menu in the parlor. 

Butter smokes at 329 degrees; lard at 400; 
Crisco, because it is a pure vegetable fat, 
does not smoke until it is heated to 455 
degrees, much hotter than is needed either 
for deep or shallow frying. There are no 
black specks of burned grease on Crisco- 
fried foods. 

You need no other cooking fat when you 
have Crisco. It makes tenderer, flakier 
pie-crust and biscuits than you have ever 
tasted. Add salt, and it gives cake the 
real butter taste at half of butter cost. 
Put it on your grocery list now. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

53 



54 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



figs or dates, left over; both in the same 
can are admissible. 

8. A good example of food-saving 
would be a pile of potatoes, neatly 
scrubbed for baking, and a dish of po- 
tatoes pared thin with eyes carefully 
removed, ready for boiling. 

9. Plan to show some of the "Sug- 
gestions to Shorten Hours in the 
Kitchen," given in February, 1919. 



Query No. 4063. — "In several cook books 
recipes are given for bread made with Baking 
Powder, with the statement that such bread was 
suitable for dyspeptics and by those of weak 
digestion. Please state if this^is a fact and if 
so the reason for it." 

Comparative Digestibility of 

Baking Powder and 

Yeast Bread 

We recall nothing in print on the com- 
parative digestibility of these two varie- 
ties of bread. When fresh-baked, baking 
powder bread is more easily masticated 
and reduced to a pulp than is yeast 
bread of firmer texture. We will be 
pleased to have subscribers send for 
publication any authentic statements on 
this subject that comes to their notice 
in their reading. 



Query No. 4064. — "How may Cockroaches 
be Exterminated from newly built hospitals and 
other buildings?" 

Exterminating Cockroaches 

Avoid leaving any garbage standing 
about longer than an hour; keep food 
covered; keep all corners and crevices 
dry; never leave any crumbs in any part 
of the room. Blow insect powder into 
all the cracks from which the vermin 
come; brush up powder and insects and 
burn; repeat the process several times, 
then spread powdered borax about the 
cracks and crevices. A strong solution 
of carbolic acid — two tablespoonfuls to 
a pint of water — may be used in the 
same manner as the insect powder. 



Query No. 4065. — "Recipe for Rice Border 
in mould, center to be filled with Creamed 
Chicken, etc." 

Rice Border for Creamed Dishes 

An illustration of rice shaped in a tin 
border mould, the center filled with 
creamed lamb, may be seen in "Season- 
able Recipes" for this month. Chicken 
is particularly good served in this way. 
The rice may be cooked with simply salt 
and water or chicken broth; or with 
cubes of beef in the center, strained 
tomato may be used; onion, parsley or 
celery may be cooked either with the 
rice or in the sauce for the meat. 



Query No. 4066. — "Recipe for the original 
'Thousand Island Salad Dressing.' " 

Thousand Island Salad Dressing 

l 



1 cup mayonnaise 

\ cup olive oil 

1 tablespoonful tarra- 
gon vinegar 

j teaspoonful paprika 

1 tablespoonful 
chopped chives 

1 tablespoonful 
chopped pimientos 



tablespoonful 
chopped green 
pepper 

1 cooked egg-yolk, 
sifted 

1 tablespoonful wal- 
nut catsup 

1-3 cup chili sauce 



Mix all together. This recipe, and one 
published on another page of this same 
issue, or in the May number of the 
magazine, were both sent to us as the 
original recipe for "Thousand Island 
Salad Dressing." The principal differ- 
ence in the two recipes is that one has 
mayonnaise and the other French dress- 
ing as the foundation. 



Query No. 4067. — "Recipes or ways for 
serving Bombay Duck." 

Bombay Duck 

Bombay duck or ducks come in tins; 
they are a variety of fish put up in Bom- 
bay; the price is forty cents a can. The 
fish is used in the preparation of appe- 
tisers, or hors d'oeuvres. Bombay Ducks 
are imported by Crosse and Blackwell of 
London, England. Tins may be pur- 
chased of dealers in fancy groceries in 
Boston, New York and other large cities. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Ryzon and Food Education 

Interest in careful preparation of food grows 
more widespread every year. Schools, magazines 
and newspapers are teaching the importance of 
modern methods in the kitchen. 

And so when a new baking powder was intro- 
duced there were thousands of progressive house- 
wives and domestic science teachers to welcome 
RYZOX, the Perfect Baking Powder. 

Their tests convinced them of its scientific, 
economical and dependable qualities — a baking 
powder that insured successful results — and they 
found their own high standards of food prepar- 
ation embodied in the new RYZOX Baking Book. 
Their endorsement has been a big factor in 
spreading the doctrine of better food preparations. 



Ryzon 




Ryzon is 40c a pound. The new Ryzon Baking 
Book (original -price $1.00), containing 250 prac- 
tical recipes, many of conservation value and 
others easily adapted to present day needs, will be 
mailed, postpaid, upon receipt of 30c in stamps 
or coin, except in Canada. A pound tin of Ryzon 
and a copy of the Ryzon Baking Book will be sent 
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher 
who writes us on school stationery, giving official 
position. 



GENERALCHEMICALtQ 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 
NEW YORK 



We must all do our best to make the change from War Work to Peace Work as 
easy as possible. Co-operation is the Big Thing needed now. 

U. S. DEPT. OF LABOR 

Wm. B. irHsori. Secretary 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
55 



56 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Bombay Duck as an Appetiser 

Drain 'the fish on a soft cloth, wiping 
meanwhile to remove any superfluous 
oil. Cut into thin slices and set into one 
of the compartments of the hors d'oeuvre 
dish. In another compartment set olives, 
in another pulled bread, and if there be 
another, in that radishes may be given a 
place. Garnish the various compart- 
ments with sprigs of parsley and cress. 



Query No. 4068. — "Recipe for Cocoanut 
Cakes made like those at Bailey's in Boston." 

Cocoanut Cakes 

(Miss Bradley) 

We do not know that these cakes are 
the same as sold at Bailey's; we have no 
way of getting that recipe. These are 
good cocoanut cakes. Grate fresh cocoa- 
nut to make two cups. This will take 
about two cups. To this fresh cocoanut 
add two tablespoonfuls of corn syrup, 
seven tablespoonfuls of sugar, and cook 
in the top of a double boiler until the 
mixture clings to the spoon. Add whites 
of egg, and cook until mixture feels 
sticky, when tried between the fingers. 
Spread in a wet pan, cover with a wet 
paper and let cool; then chill by setting 
pan on ice in the refrigerator. Shape 
into balls, first dipping the hands in cold 
water. For ten cakes use one and one- 
half tablespoonfuls of mixture for each. 
Heat a tin sheet slightly and rub over 
with white wax, paraffin or olive oil. 
Set the balls on the sheet and bake in a 
slow oven about twenty minutes. 



Query No. 4069. — "Is soup usually served 
at formal luncheons?" 

Soup at Formal Luncheons 

A clear soup, some variety of con- 
somme, is usually served as the first 
course at a formal luncheon. When it is 
desirable to lengthen the number of 
courses, hors d'oeuvre are sometimes 
served before the soup. 



Query No. 4070. — "Should the Dessert 
plate be removed before or after the Coffee is 
served?" 

Service of Coffee 

Preferably the dessert plate should be 
removed before the coffee is brought in; 
much depends on number of waitresses 
and time at disposal of the diners. When 
convenient, it is quite enjoyable to serve 
the coffee in the library or living room. 



Query No. 4071. — "Should Salad be served 
on individual plates, or should each guest help 
himself from a large plate?" 

Service of Salad 

The salad should be served on indi- 
vidual plates, chilled, but if desired it 
may be brought in on a large plate from 
which it may be transferred to the in- 
dividual plate. A green salad should 
never be served on the plate with hot 
food, as it becomes wilted and is thus 
indigestible. 



Query No. 4072. — "Should Bread and 
Butter Plates be used on the table for luncheon 
and dinner?" 

Use of Bread and Butter Plates 

Bread and butter plates are used for 
breakfast and luncheon; if butter be 
used at dinner, it is set in place on a small 
butter pat. 



Query No. 4073. — "Should Coffee be served 
with the luncheon or after it? " 

Service of Coffee 

At a formal luncheon coffee is served 
in small cups after the meal; at a more 
formal affair the coffee would be served 
in a larger cup, and at the beginning of 
the meal. 



In a pamphlet issued by the Irish com- 
missioners of national education the an- 
nouncement appeared: "The women 
teachers are being instructed in plain 
cooking. They have had, in fact, to go 
through the process of cooking them- 
selves." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




"Iowa's Pride" Breakfast Bacon 

With the Famous Yorkshire Flavor 



Keenly appreciative of fine-flavored meats were 
the hearty Yorkshire squires — and the famous York- 
shire flavor is a legacy in which 
every American home may share. 

Alluring recipes for breakfast 
dishes — originated by Mrs. Ida C. 
Bailey Allen, America's foremost cul- 
inary expert — -yours for the asking. 
Just send your name and address and 
your dealer's. 



Beauregard Eggs 
With Bacon 

2 four-inch slices "Iowa's 
Pride" bacon to person. 

1 piece of toast to person. 
1 egg to person. White Sauce. 



Hard-boil the eggs. Remove 
yolks. Chop whites in f inch 
cubes. Mix with white sauce. 
Fry bacon. Place 2 strips on 
each slice of toast. Cover 
bacon and toast with white 
sauce mixture. Press yolk 
through sieve over all. 



John Morrell &2 Go. 

OTTUMWA, IOWA 

Breakfast Ideas 



" Iowa s Pride" Ham 

Morr ell's Roast Beef Hash 

"Iowa's Pride" Dried Beef 



"Yorkshire Farm" Orange Marmalade 
"Yorkshire Farm" Butter 

Morrell s Corned Beef Hash 



40 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

57 



The Silver Lining 



A Conundrum! 

I strolled along the country lane 

To study nature — but in vain, 

For there preceded me two girls, 

With hair in saucy, clinging curls, 

Restrained by automobile caps, 

With bright red veils and jaunty flaps, 

And wearing khaki suits of rose, 

With hiking boots and striped hose! 

"Bon jour, Bon jour!" at last I gasped, 

And then with nervousness I clasped 

My nature book — as turned around 

The luring comrades I had found — 

For lo! they were the Grandma-ma's 

Of Violet and Hazel Maas! 

With "Au revoir" I hastened by, 

Nor paused to hear their curt reply! 

But soon I caught my breath in glee, 

For seated 'neath a chestnut tree 

Sat Violet and Hazel Maas, 

Awaiting their perk Grandma-ma's; 

All gowned in suits of sober gray, 

Discussing topics of the day — 

How germs might lurk in devious places, 

The "RIGHTS OF WOMEN," "WAR" and 

races, 
In such a clever, knowing way, 
I bowed and left them in dismay. 

— Carolyn Sumner. 




It Was His Own 

Slater was absorbed in the evening 
news when his young son's crying dis- 
turbed him. "What is that child crying 
for now?" he demanded irascibly. 

"He wants his own way," said Mrs. 
Slater. 

"Well," argued Slater absent-mindedly, 
as his eye fell on a particularly interesting 
item, "if it's his, why don't you let him 
have it?" 

The sexton of a suburban church has 
many stories to tell of the comments 
made by visitors. On the occasion of a 
festival, when the church was beautifully 
decorated with evergreens and flowers, 
an old lady walked up to the chancel and 
stood sniffing the air after every one had 
left the church. " Don't it smell solemn ?" 
she said at last to the sexton, as she 
turned away with evident reluctance. 
"I don't just know as I ever realized 
just what the 'odor of sanctity' meant 
before today." — The Continent. 

One night at a theatre some scenery 
took fire and a perceptible odor alarmed 
the spectators. A panic seemed im- 
minent, when an actor appeared on the 
stage. "Ladies and gentlemen," he said, 
"compose yourselves. There is no 
danger." The. audience did not seem 
reassured. "Ladies and gentlemen," 
continued the comedian, rising to the 
necessity of the occasion, "do you think 
if there was any danger I'd be here?" 
The panic collapsed. — Syracuse Post- 
Standard. 

An officer just returned from France 
is telling this story: "Where," iie asked 
of a negro soldier of one of the New 
York draft regiments, "did you come 
from?" "From N'Yawk, suh. From 
de San Ju-an Hill district." "San Juan 
Hill, eh! That's rather a tough section 
of the city, isn't it?" "Tough! Man, 
dat district's so tough dat de canary 
birds sing bass." — New York Evening 
Post. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

58 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Add Another Joy to June 

Strawberries are vastly better with Puffed Rice scattered on them. 
These grains are so thin, so flimsy, so flavory that they just fit in with 
fruit. And they add what crust adds to a shortcake — a delicious blend. 
The ideal summer supper is Puffed Wheat in a bowl of milk. 

These grains are toasted whole-wheat bubbles, crisp and flaky, eight 
times normal size. Every food cell is exploded, so they easily digest. 

Crisp and douse with melted butter for hungry children in the afternoon. 

Teach girls to use Puffed Rice or Corn Puffs in home candy making. 
They make candy lighter and give a nut-like taste. 

Whole Grains Steam Exploded 

Puffed Wheat and Puffed Rice are whole-grain foods, of which children 
get too little. 

Over 100 million steam explosions are caused in every kernel. Thus 
every granule of the whole grain is fitted to digest. 

Serve them abundantly. 

In summer time keep all three kinds on hand. 



Puffed Rice Puffed Wheat Corn Puffs 

All Bubble Grains. Each 15c Except in Far West 



The Quaker Qats (bmpany 



Sole Makers 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

59 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Back to Nature 

"Why is it, Sam, that one never hears 
of a darky committing suicide?" in- 
quired the Northerner. 

"Well, you see, it's disaway, boss: 
When a white pusson has any trouble 
he sets down an' gits to studyin' 'bout 
it an' a-worryin'. Then firs' thing you 
know he's done killed hisse'f. But when 
a nigger sets down to think about his 
troubles, why, he jes' nacherly goes to 
sleep!" — ■ Life. 



"Man is the only animal that uses 
tobacco," said the prohibitionist who 
had joined the Anti-tobacco League. 
"Yes," replied the Rounder. "And he 
is also the only animal that is always 
minding other people's business." 

— ■ Knoxville Journal and Tribune. 



A man called at the address where a 
donkey had been advertised for sale. 



The door was opened by a small boy. 
The caller said, "I have come to inquire 
about the donkey." Whereupon the 
boy went to the foot of the stairs and 
called out, "Father, you're wanted." 



"I put in the French phrases here and 
there," said the would-be author, "to give 
the book an atmosphere of culture." 
"That's all right," said the publisher, 
"but it would have helped still more if 
you'd put in a little good English here 
and there." — Boston Transcript. 



At every social affair there is usually a 

man who is said to be "the life of the 

party." And how I do dislike that man. 

— ■ E. W. Howe's Monthly. 



"It is mighty hard to please her." 
" Oh, it's easy enough if you can make her 
decide what she wants." — ■ Life. 



DotibleSterling 

The 40 Feature Range-* 

40 features which make it more economical, 
easier and much more convenient for you to use. 



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Send for our handsome catalog describ- 
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If you haven't gas con- 
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he range that bakes a barrel of flour with 
a single hod of coal. 

Sill Stove Works, Rochester, N. Y. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

60 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




. 







<&M V 














"Now Guess" 

"Oh, mother knows what I like 
and what all the kids like, so I 
know it's 





ELL" 





For party occasions for children 
and grown-ups, nothing is so good 
as Jell-O. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY 
Le Roy, N. Y. 





ljuv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

61 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



1 



MAKES TASTY 

CAKES— 



^M 



mtJ eCWTtNTSOht fcAU 



Crisp, thin-rolled maple 
snaps, maple sponge 
cake, maple raisin cake, etc., are easily 
made with this pure cane and maple 
syrup. Many of your favorite recipes 
will be improved by the addition of 
Uncle John's Syrup. 

It's as Necessary on the Table 
as the Sugar and the Cream 

You'll like it on hot biscuits, 
brown bread, steamed bread 
and waffles. Fine on ice cream 
and grape fruit. Order a can 
today. 

Put up in 4 convenient sizes. 

New England 
Mapie Syrup Co. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



*£ 



\i 



)$. 



CAME AND 
MAPLESUCAR 

SYRUP 



VVI 



,^z 




Fleischmann's Yeast 

As a Medicine 



Compressed yeast is being prescrib- 
ed and used with splendid results in 
cases of boils, carbuncles, pimples and 
similar skin afflictions. 

It is also a gentle but efficient lax- 
ative. 

"The Healing Power of Compressed 
Yeast," is the title of a little booklet 
that will tell you all about it. 
Free on request. 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington St., New York City 



a 



a 



a> 



{Catherine Helps Aunt Ellen 

Concluded from page 47 
Well^Katherine, if it is hot when 
put on^the cake, it usually gets very 
hard and cracks in^a little while on the 
cake." 

Yes, that is justwhat it does on ours." 
: Tell your mother to A add some cold 
water, if *the icing gets thick, when still 
hot, that will really make it even lighter 
and fluffiier any way. If it ever fails to 
get thick even after it is cool, tell her to 
add jsome powdered sugar. 

"Come back, Katherine, in an hour, 
and I will cut the cake and give you 
some!" 

"You can't cut it when it is hot, can 
you ? Won't it stick all-over the knife ? " 

"No, it won't, for I always moisten the 
knife with water whenever I cut very 
fresh cake, and it works splendidly." 

"Well, Auntie, I surely will come back, 
and thanks ever so much for letting me 
help you. Good-bye." 

"Good-bye, dear; thank you. Next 
time maybe we can make a lemon pie." 

l. b. w. 

Miss Blank, who wished to become a 
candidate for the position of teacher in the 
public schools, went up for examination 
recently. She was called upon to read a 
passage from "Macbeth" which closes 
with the words which Macbeth speaks to 
Lady Macbeth, "Prithee, come with me" 
"And what." asked the examiner, "do 
you understand 'prithee' to mean?" 
"I understand it to be a corruption of 
'pray thee,'" replied the would-be 
teacher, surprised at so trivial a question. 
"I am glad," said the examiner. "The 
lady who came just before you assured me 
that it was the^Christian name of Mac- 
beth's wife." — Judge. 




ANGLEFOO 



The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer 

The United States Public Health Service advises: 
"Arsenical Fly ~ Destroying devices must be rated as / 
extremely dangerous, and should never be used." 



rflrTS 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




ox says 




LL berries and fruits, fresh 
or ''put up" are improved 
beyond your dreams by the addi- 
tion of Knox Sparkling Gelatine. 

Experts call Knox the "4-to-l" 
gelatine because it goes so much 
-each package makes four pints of jelly and blends 
so perfectly with all other foods. Here, for instance, is an 
easily made dessert with strawberries. 



i 



KNOX 

SPARKLING 

GELATINE 

Strawberry Cream Recipe 



1 level tablespoonful Knox Sparkling A cupful of fresh strawberry juice 
Gelatine. and pulp. 

% cupful of cold water. } : ruptu! sugar. 

1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 3 egg whites. 

Soften gelatine in cold water: heat over hot water, until dissolved. Strain, add to strawberry 
and lemon juice. Slowly stir in sugar: set bowl containing mixture in cold water; beat until 
gelatine begins to set. Carefully fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Turn into a wet mold and 
chill. Garnish with strawberries and strawberry or mint leaves. Any fresh or "'put up" fruit 
may be used in place of the strawberries. 

This recipe makes one pint mold or six individual servings and uses only '< of a package of 
Knox Sparkling Gelatine. 

Strawberry Salad can be made with this recipe by omitting the egg whites and 
using only '/{ cupful of sugar, ';_> teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of halved straw- 
berries. Turn out on lettuce leaves, garnish with whole berries and serve with 
boiled or mayonnaise dressing. 

Knox Knowledge Book's — "Dainty Desserts" and "Food Economy" 
are full of easily made desserts and salads; also household hints. 
They are free if you give your grocer's name and address. 



KNOX GELATINE 



Mrs. Charlos B. -Knox 



107 Knox Avenue 



Johnstown, N. Y. 



Plain for general use — 
easily' prepared 






KNQX 

SPARKLING 




GELATINE 



Including pure lemon 
flavor for quick use 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

63 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



s 




Qke Standard Rubber at the Standard Price 













BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 27 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, Mass. 

The Largest and Oldest Manufacturers of Jar Rubbers in the World 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




bors/ 



WHY RELIABLE RUBBERS 
SAVE LOSS IN CANNING 




Old fashioned pre- 
serving known us the 
"hoi pack" method 



The Old Fashioned Open 
Kettle Method 

In the early days of canning in glass jars the 
old-fashioned "open-kettle" method was used 
exclusively with the fruit packed thoroughly 
cooked and boiling hot into jars. The ring 
served only as a cushion to prevent the passage 
of air between the top and shoulder of the jar. 
There was no strain on the rubber, no pressure. 




GOOD LUCK rub- 
bers are elastic and 
spring back readily 



Then, as now, we were the largest jar ring makers in 
the world. Home canning was increasing principally 
because people wanted to can fresh vegetables as well 
as fruits, but only the most skillful were successful. 
Better methods of sterilization and sealing were needed. 
We could do little to reform methods but we could pro- 
vide a ring strong and elastic enough to make a perfect seal. 



So, eleven years ago we produced the Good 
Luck red rubber and offered it to the house- 
wives of America. For several years it was not 
widely appreciated. It was higher in quality 
and therefore higher in price than most people 
were willing to pay. It was considered better 
than necessary but gradually housewives found 
that this ring could be trusted and the circle of 
Good Lick users widened from year to year. 
They found it paid to buy a reliable rubber. 




imposition rubbers 
■well and "blow out" 
during long boiling 



Modern Methods Require 
Live Elastic Rubbers 

Then came "cold pack" canning. The new 
gospel spread rapidly. In homes where the 
amount of canning was large or for community 
work, steam pressure canning was introduced 
to save time, BUT ORDINARY RUBBERS 
WOULD NOT DO:— they "blew out." The 
long boiling in the water bath and the high 
temperature of the steam pressure softened the rings, made 
them swell and "bulge." This meant broken seals and 
necessitated re-«terilizing, with loss of time and fuel. 

Demonstrators and teachers found the answer to their 
problem in Good Luck jar rubbers, already widely dis- 
tributed and known to progressive housewives. Then the 
real growth of Good Luck began. Today the Good 
Luck jar rubber is the largest selling brand in the world. 
Millions of packages are used annually to con- 
serve the country's food supply, fruits, vege- 
tables, meats and jams — whatever is plentiful 
at one season and scarce at another. Home 
canning has become practically universal since 
danger of spoilage has disappeared. The Good 
Luck Rubber is recommended wherever can- 
ning demonstrations are given, because it is 
known by name as the one reliable ring for 
hot pack, cold pack or steam pressure canning 




Over one hundred 
million GOOD LUCK 
rubbers were nsed 
during IV] 8. 



Don't Pay too Little — Don't Pay too Much 

With modern canning, methods established, the rubber ring question be- 
comes of utmost importance. As is always the case, the market is 
flooded with competitive rubbers — some cheaper and some more expensive. 
Home canning is done in the interest of economy. Good Luck rubbers 
cost 15c a dozen, about 1% cents to insure the safety of each jar of food. 
To pay less is to take an unnecessary risk. To pay more is to incur an 
unnecessary expenditure. Good Luck Rubbers are thick, strong and 
pure elastic, with plenty of live rubber in them — a standard rubber at a 
standard price, tried and tested for any method of canning. 

GOOD LUCK RUBBERS are sold throughout the country by grocers, hardware dealers, department 
and general stores, and are furnished as standard equipment with Atlas E. Z. Seal jars. Buy your supply 
of Good Luck Rings early this year. If you cannot find them in your locality send 15c for sample dozen, 
and a 3c stamp for our new booklet on cold pack canning containing many new and delicious recipes. 

OSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO. 27 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, Mass. 

*he Largest and Oldest M anuf acturers of Jar Rubbers in the World 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

65 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



/ WM. CAMPBELL 

\ Original Fireless 

.Cooker Man , 




I Am Making a Low Fac- 
tory Price On 10,000 

rnnlrare ^Y Rapid roasts, bakes, 

VsOOKciS fries, steams or stews. 

Saves you work— saves you steps— 

saves you standing over 

hot cook stove. Try my 

Aluminum Lined 
Fireless Cooker 

80 days on my personal money 

back guaranty. Take a vote of 

le entire family. If they 

don't say they never had 

better cooked meals — if 

yon don't say you did it 

with far less work, send 

cooker right back and I 

will return every cent. 

Send for Free Book 

Write postal TODAY. 

The Wd. Campbell Co. 

Dept. 73 Detroit, Slieh. 



During the summer months you will 
want moulds for Gelatine, Custards 
and Puddings. 




Buy a Wagner Cast Aluminum Mould. They last a 
lifetime and never get out of snape like stamped ware. 
The designs are like the imported block tin moulds u^ed 
so extensively in England and France and are no more 
expensive than a good tin mould. 

If your dealer does cot handle them write to us for 
catalogue. 

WAGNER MFG. CO., Sidney, Ohio 



Make Your Own 

TOOTH PASTE 

AT 50 CENTS A QUART 



An expert chemist has perfected a 
formula for making an exceptionally 
high grade tooth paste. The remark- 
able thing about this paste is that it can 
be made by anyone in a few minutes, 
no boiling being required. 

The ingredients are substances which 
you have in your home at all times. 

Contains no pumice "or other injurious sub- 
stance, such as many pastes contain. 

Send for this recipe at once. Simply en- 
close a dime and your name and address. 

PLEASE DO NOT SEND STAMPS 



ALFRED SCHNEIDER, Chemist 

2531 Arlington Ave. Davenport, Iowa 



" Keeping Everlastingly at it 
Brings Success ' 

NOBODY can be successful in any 
ejideavof without perseverance. 
Whatever other attributes for success the 
aspirant has, failure is inevitable, unless 
accompanied by perseverance. Happily 
this quality is readily acquired. If you 
want a thing hard enough to bend every 
effort toward getting it, and keep on 
wanting and working, you'll get it. 
Many men fail because they don't hang 
on long enough. Just as the door of 
success begins to open they grow dis- 
couraged and throw up the sponge. 

Perseverance means sticking to a thing 
till you accomplish your aim. Per- 
severance must be practiced continuously. 
Almost anybody can persevere for a 
month, or year, or when there are indi- 
cations that things are coming his way, 
but it takes the heroic soul, who earns, 
and eventually acquires success, to keep 
on struggling in the face of one dis- 
couragement and setback after another. 
It is the man who won't be convinced 
that things can't be done who actually 
does them. While every one is saying: 
"Oh, that never can be done; anybody 
knows that's impossible;" the persever- 
ing man becomes more dogged, and 
asserts: "I'm going to do it if it takes 
till doomsday." It usually doesn't take 
as long as that, though sometimes it 
takes a lifetime. 

Perseverance alone will not assure 
success, however, unless intelligently di- 
rected. You can do nothing contrary to 
natural law, no matter how persevering 
you are. You couldn't induce an ant to 
spin a web if you tried forever, because 
the laws of Nature are unalterable. But 
if your ambitions are in harmony with 
natural law, you may be certain that 
intelligent perseverance will bring you 
your heart's desire. A. J. s. 



It only takes a few minutes to findJin 
others the faults we can't discover in our- 
selves in a lifetime. — Boston Transcript. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

66 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



A Famous Recipe — 

"No-Egg" Mayonnaise Dressing 

Made With Carnation Milk 

WITH every woman who has tried the Carnation Milk 
recipe for "No-Egg" mayonnaise dressing, it is more 
than popular. Until this recipe is tried, you cannot realize 
how excellently Carnation Milk blends into a really delicious 
dressing. The uniform quality and undoubted purity of Car- 
nation have much to do with this. 

Carnation No- Egg Mayonnaise Dressing 

2 tablespoons Carnation Milk; x /o teaspoonful salt; % teaspoon paprika; 
x /l cup olive oil; 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice. Put salt and 
paprika in bowl; add Carnation Milk and mix thoroughly; add oil 
slowly, stirring constantly. Then add vinegar or lemon juice. (If too 
thick, thin with more Carnation Milk.) 

The many advantages of Carnation as the household milk supply are only 
appreciated when it is given a thorough test. Try it exclusively for sev- 
eral days, using it not only in all your cooking, but (undiluted) as you 
would cream in coffee and with cereals. You will then realize its econ- 
omy, convenience and value. 

Carnation is only cows' milk — sweet, clean 
and pure — evaporated to the consistency 
of cream, hermetically sealed, and steril- 
ized to maintain its purity and whole- 
someness. For cooking or drinking, re- 
duce its richness by adding pure water. 

Our Interesting Recipe Booklet and 
Special Folder Free 

Every reader of this magazine is especially and 
cordially invited to write us for a copy of "The 
Story of Carnation Milk," which contains a hun- 
dred choice, tested recipes. We will mail a copy 
without charge on request. 

We also have a special folder on "how to whip 
Carnation Milk," which we will send to Domestic 
Science instructors for distribution among their 
classes. Address: Carnation Milk Products Co., 
463 Consumers Bldg., Chicago. 
Guaranteed by 
Carnation Milk Products Company 
Seattle Chicago Aylmer, Ont. 






Condenseries located in the better dairyinq sec- 
tions thronqhout the United States and Canada. 




Remember— Your Grocer Has Carnation 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

67 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Ifguess) that's 



faboutjdone 



These two words don't belong. Not in your kitchen 
any more than in the expert chef's. Not now. Today 
the newest housewife can always tell the minute bak- 
ing is Derfectlv done without even looking at it. 

You know your oven has the right heat by look- 
ing at your Taylor Oven Thermometer. One 
of the 

Taylor 

Home Set 

This set makes all the difference between "guess' ' 
and "know." The sugar meter, for example, shows 
in. figures when canning syrups are just right. 

Three Taylor Recipe Books free with set. No 
chance to make a mistake in these recipes.' 

Taykr Instrument Companies 
Rochester, N. Y. 

Oven 

Thermometer, $1.75 
Candy 

Thermometer 1.50 
Sugar Meter 1 .00 

The three for $4.25 
Prices in Canada and 
Far West proportion- 
atelyhigher. If dealer 
can't or won't supply 
you, send $4.25 direct to 
us with dealer's name 
and it will be sent you 
prepaid. 




Cream Whipping Made 
Easy and Inexpensive 

^ REMQ- y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk 

or Top of the Milk Bottle 

It whips up as easily as heavy cream 
and retains its stiffness 

Every caterer and housekeeper 
wants CREMO VESCO. 
Send for a bottle today. 



Housekeeper's size, 1 ^oz., .30 prepaid 
Caterer's size, 16oz., $1.00 
(With full directions.) 



Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



ALMOST AN ACT OF TREASON 

CONCERNING the teaching of for- 
eign languages in public schools, 

Mrs. Guernsey, well-known educator, 
said: 

"It has been demonstrated that one of 
the greatest barriers to patriotism is a 
foreign language. This war has taught 
us that the supreme mistake in all of 
our educational methods has been right 
here. The use of a foreign language in 
our public schools has been almost an 
act of treason. We might as well have 
been teaching Sanskrit as. German, and 
far better, for Sanskrit would not have 
kept American youth from growing 
American souls. We might as well try 
to grow roses in the Arctics as to develop 
an American consciousness while speaking 
a foreign language. 

"The American people are strangely 
affected by clothes and food. What 
kind of an American consciousness can 
you grow in the atmosphere of sauer- 
kraut and limburger cheese? Or what 
can you expect of the Americanism of the 
man whose breath always reeks of garlic ?" 

To make every dweller in this country 
"the proud possessor of an American 
soul," Mrs. Guernsey said, she would 
send Minnesota Scandinavians to the 
South, scatter thousands of Wisconsin 
Germans through New England, and 
compel hundreds of thousands of Jews 
in New York to seek homes in the far 
West. This, she declared, was "because 
American neighbors were needed by 
every one of foreign birth or ancestry." 



Since Noah taught Shem, Ham and 
Japheth, was there ever a time when the 
schools did not need "reorganizing?" 



SALAD 



as 



100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail 100 Meat- 
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c. 
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



SEVEN-CENT MEALS Hf\£Z n r^ 

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. Thi:, 
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or free for names of four friend: | 
interested in Domestic Science. 
Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicag< 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

68 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



[iniiiiHiiiiiiiii.ii.h.iiiiiiiiiii lHii.:,.;: .ij,.: ■ ■ .;i::„ 



r 




Tart Green Salad Loaves 

Made with Lime-Fruit Jiffy -Jell 



One summer use for Jiffy-Jell is in 
tart, zestful salads. 

Lime-fruit flavor — which is lime- 
juice essence — makes an ideal salad jell. 
Some serve it with the salad, some mix 
the salad in before the jell is cool. 

Cooked or uncooked vegetables are 
made in this way into zestful salad 

Also Meats 

Meat scraps mixed 
in Lime Jiffy-Jell 
make an appetizing 
loaf — meat in aspic. 



Mint Jell 

Mint Jiffy-Jell makes a garnish jell, 
rich in fresh-mint flavor. It is better 
than mint sauce to serve 
with cold meats or roast 
lamb. 






V 



r*" 
ft* 



' 




t 1 



\i 



Lime Flavor 
For Salad Jell 



The salad loaf at top is made in our 
aluminum mold, Style D. It serves a 
full package of Lime 
Jiffy-Jell with vege- 
tables or meat mixed 
in. The six indenta- 
tions mark the six in- 
dividual servings. 

We send this mold 
free to anyone who will 
mail us end labels from 
five Jiffy-Jell packages 
—the labels which state 
the flavor. 



T \ 

Afmf 

For Garnish 

Jell 



mm 

For Desserts and Salads 



Ten Flavors in Glass Vials 

A. Bottle in Each Package 

Strawberry Cherry Loganberry 
Pineapple Lemon Raspberry 
Orange Coffee Lime — Mint 

Tzvo Packages for 25c 



Flavors 
In Glass 

All Jiffy-Jell flavors 
come in liquid form, in 
glass — a bottle in each 
package. 

That's the only way 
to get the real-fruit flavor in desserts. 

The fruit flavors are 
fruit-juice essences con- 
densed. Each flavor 
is rich and abundant, 
and made from the fruit 
itself. 



Once compare Jiffy- 
Jell with the old-type 
desserts and you will 
always get it. 



Waukesha Pure Food Company, Waukesha, Wis. 



465 



mii 



I IIIIIIIHHIIIIII Illlllllllllll IIIHIIIIIHIIH III1IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIM 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
• 69 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



SERVICE TABLE WAGON 




n SERVES YOUR HOME AND 
SAVES YOUR TIME THAT 
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY 



Large Broad Wide Table 
'Top — Removable Glass 
Service Tray — Double 
Drawer — Double 
Handles — Large Deep 
Undershelves — "Scien- 
tifically Silent" Rubber 
Tired Swivel Wheels. 

A high grade piece of furni- 
ture surpassing anything yet at- 
tempted for General Utility. 
ease of action, and absolute 
noiselessness. WRITE NOW 
for a Descriptive Pamphlet 
and dealer s name.' 
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO. 

504J Cunard Bide. Chicago. III. 



=Domestic Science= 

Home-study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children 

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional 
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution 
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate 
Housekeepers" Caterers, etc. 

"The Profession of Home-making." 100 
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand 
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent 
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each. 

American School of Home Economics 
I (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, III. 



J 



MORTON'S SALT 



When it Rains 



it POURS 



MORTON SALT COMPANY 

80 E. Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, Illinois 



Delicious Whipped Cream 

can be easily made from ordinary Table 
Cream by adding a few drops of 

Farrand's Cream Whip 

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer 
does not carry it. 

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science. 

THE CREAM WHIP CO. 

Cleveland, Ohio 



USED 

DAILY IN A 

MILLION 

HOMES 



Colburn's 
Spices 

The A.Colbur n Co., 
Philadelphia,U.SA 



Catering for Entertainments 

(From The Caterer, London) 

The following quantities may be taken 
as approximately correct: 

Six teaspoonfuls of tea are equal to 
one ounce, which is sufficient for four 
persons — ■ one pound for sixty people. 

One and a half teaspoonfuls of coffee 
(ground) are equal to one ounce, two 
ounces for three people, one pound for 
about twenty-five people. 

Fourteen small cups of iced coffee go 
to a quart. 

One pound of sugar suffices for forty- 
five people; one small teaspoonful of 
loose sugar is the equivalent of one lump. 

About one-fourth pound of fruit salad, 
and one-half pint or two small tumblers 
or cup of lemonade should be calculated 
per head. 

Allow three slices of bread and butter 
for three people, and sandwiches should 
be estimated on the same scale. Large 
cakes, one slice to every two people; 
small ones, three for two people. 

One quart of ices (welcome refresh- 
ment at a dance) will be enough for 
twenty small helpings if unmoulded; if 
moulded only for half that number. 

About one-fourth pound of fish (un- 
cooked) and one-third pint of soup will 
allow adequate helpings for one guest; 
while one chicken, boned and made into 
a galantine, will make twelve helpings, 
but if roast or boiled, not counting the 
legs, this is only for four or six people. 

Eight to ten helpings of sweets or 
savory can be obtained from a quart 
mould. 

It may be useful to give a menu of a 
dinner, which in pre-war times could 
be supplied for a hundred people at, 
say, 18d. per head, and to calculate 
what it would cost in these days of food 
shortage, high prices, and restriction. 

MENU 

Potage de Quele deJ3ceuf 
Eperians Frits 

Salmi de Gibier 
Pommes Anna 
Poule Roti 
Souffle a la Vanilla 
Fromage 



Filet de Turbot au Gratin 
Filet de Bceuf Braise 
Puree d'Epinards 
Salade 

Gele au Citron 
Dessert Cafe 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

70 * 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



UNSEEN 
SERVANT 




/A? 

Perfect Meal 



is the perfect refrigerator. This silent, but important 
center of kitchen activity makes or mars the food set on 
your table. Both hostess and meal are sure to be at their 
best when the kitchen boasts a 




The Herrick serves perfectly because of its scientific con- 
struction and twenty-seven prize-winning features. 

But it not only serves — it saves. Herrick insulation 
and airtight construction mean ice economy. Its smooth 
lining and easily removable drainage system save cleaning 
trouble, while its perfect preserving powers prevent waste. 

Help For Home Builders 

If building, you will be interested in our free blue print 
service furnished in connection with the Herrick Outside 
Icing Refrigerator. See panel for special conveniences. 
Dealer's name and booklet B6 furnished on request. 

Approved by Good Housekeeping Institute and 
New Yor\ Tribune Institute 

THE HERRICK REFRIGERATOR CO. 

206 RIVER STREET, WATERLOO, IOWA 

HERRICK — "The Perfect Servant" 




Extra Conveniences 
Outside Icing 

Herrick Outside Icing 
Refrigerator elimin- 
ates: 

The need of ice in cold 
weather. 

The interruptions of the 
iceman. 

The annoyance 
of tracked-up floors. 



Installation plans fur- 
nished free to home 
builders. 



Mechanical Icing 

can also be installed on 
any Herrick Model 
where desired. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

71 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ROWE'S GLOUCESTER 

¥ T A KJt Hflf^i^Vf Direct from factory to home 
rlAJVllVlV-r^lV Charges prepaid in the U. S. 



Take comfort and 




The Rowe has all-quality construction — built up to an ideal and 
not down to a price. Standard in bed hammocks for thirty 
years. Used exclusively at summer resorts, clubs, camps and in 
homes of people who know values and demand comfort. Made 
in (government standard) non-fadeable, 21-oz. U. S Khaki or 
white sail duck that will resist wind, weather and rough usage- 
Costs a few dollars more, but will outlast ten one-season 
hammocks. Send for catalogue. 

If it's made of canvas we can make it. SAVE THIS Ad. 

E. L. ROWE & SON, INC., Workers in Canvas 

142 Water Street " Gloucester, Mass. 



ELKHORN CHEESE 

8 VARIETIES IN TINS 

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO. 

CHICAGO AND NEW YORK 



AS NEVER BEFORE YOU NEED A 
COPY OF 

CANNING, PRESERVING 
AND JELLY MAKING 

By JANET McKENZIE HILL 

The economic condition of the times 
demands that all surplus vegetables and 
fruit be carefully preserved for future 
use. Modern methods of canning and 
jelly making have simplified and short- 
ened preserving processes. In this book 
the latest ideas in canning, preserving 
and jelly making are presented. 

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, on receipt 
of price, $1.00. 

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, and renew 
your subscription for American Cookery one year, both 
for $2.25 

We will send a copy of this book, postpaid, to any 
present subscriber sending her renewal at $1.50 and one 
new subscriber for American Cookery at $1.50 and 25 
cents additional ($3.25 in all). 

Address 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

Boston, Mass. 



Boy Was Mournful 

Little Willie, together with his parents, 
was invited to a Sunday dinner at the 
home of his uncle. Chicken was the 
piece de resistance of the gladsome lay- 
out, and, being a great lover of the dainty 
morsel, Willie expanded his appetite to 
fit the occasion. 

When the dessert was served the 
youngster had to balk. Manfully he 
made two or three stabs at the dish, and 
then gazed at it with a dejected expres- 



sion. 



What's the matter, Willie?" asked 
his uncle, with a smiling glance at the 
youngster; "you look mournful." 

"That's just what the matter is," 
pathetically answered Willie, "I am 
moren'n full!" — Chicago Journal. 



A sage is a man who will sit up at night 
and worry over things that a fool never 
even heard of. — ■ Pelican. 



"Another labor problem is how men 
with no work can strike for more pay." 



Domestic Service Problem Solved! 

For 12c postage we will lend you our 
new 544 pp. book, Household Engineering 
by Mrs. Christine Frederick, showing how 
to solve this and all other home problems. 
Return in 5 days or keep it and pay 
$2.00. Fair enough? 

Am. School of Home Economics 
503 W. 69th St., Chicago. Adv. 



White Mountain 

REFRIGERATORS 

"The Chest with the Chill in it" 

They are built on scientific principles, 
and have earned for themselves the uni- 
versal and enthusiastic approval of that great final Judge 
—the PUBLIC. 

Sold in every city and important town in the United 
States. Send for handsome catalogs and booklets. 

"In Over a Million Homes" 

MAINE MANUFACTURING CO., Nashua, N. H. 

Established 1874 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

72 



ADVERTISEMENTS - 



i 



iW I t&jKNfS 




Crisp, Delicious, Tempting Bacon 
Cured and Smoked the Wilson Way 



Wilson's Certified, the brand name 
for our best quality products, has 
been given our famous Majestic 
Bacon to make more certain your 
selection of this highly nutritious 
and economical food. 



a 



Certified" is the key- word in our 
institution. It means everything 
that the Wilson label stands for. It 
means our good faith, our skill, our 
experience, our judgment. It means 
the last limit of our determination 
that the Wilson label must guide 



you to the selection of foods that rare 
beyond question as to quality. Every 
Wilson product is selected, handled 
and prepared with respect— the care- 
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to oversee their preparation for you. 

When you buy ham or bacon, ask 
for Wilson's Certified. 

If your dealer cannot supply you, 
we can stock him immediately, for 
our distribution is national. 



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WILSON & CO. 



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CHICAGO 



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The Wilso 



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73 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



NESNAH— THE PROTECTIVE FOOD 

(Made in a Jiffy) 

A well-balanced diet is what we all need to achieve much and to maintain good health; these 
two things are necessary to all of us. 

But how are we to maintain good health and accomplish the task before us? One way we can- 
not do it is on a faulty diet. 

One thing that will help towards success and health is a well-balanced diet. Most of us are busy 
people, and do not have time, perhaps, to think much about food. We don't know whether ours is 
a well-balanced diet or not. 

"Milk is a protective food," according to the best authority. And in saying that he means 
that whatever element may be lacking in the diet is supplied by taking milk, because it contains 
every element necessary for the human system. 

One pint of milk taken each day as Nesnah Pudding is an ideal 
protective food. 

Nesnah must be made with milk, and it makes taking milk a real 

CHOCOLATE NESNAH PUDDING 

Heat one quart of milk lukewarm, drop into it one box of Choco- 
late Nesnah, and dissolve by stirring one-half minute. Pour into in- 
dividual glass cups and allow it to stand undisturbed ten or fifteen 
minutes. Place in refrigerator, and when well chilled serve with a little 
whipped cream. 

One ten cent package makes a quart 

Six pure natural flavors 
Vanilla Lemon Raspberry Almond Orange Chocolate 

A post card will bring you a sample package and a Nesnah cook booklet 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, Inc. 

The Junket Folks 
Box 2507 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 





Practical Binders for American Cookery 

We have had made a number of binders in green, red and ecru buckram, 
appropriately lettered. They are neat, attractive and practical. Each holds 
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As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a com- 
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end of the year a complete book on cooking and household science always 
handy for reference. 

Sent postpaid /or one (1) new subscription to American Cookery. Cash Price 75c 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. m«.°" 



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SUMMER COURSES 



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s 








I 

Meat -Roll 

A l'Americaine 




Put enough cold cooked beef through a food-chopper to maice two 
cup uls to this add a cup of soaked, squeezed stale bread crumbs, 
one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tablespoonful of minced 
parsley, salt and pepper. Heat two cups of stock in a double 
boiler, add three heaping tablespoonfuls of Minute Tapioca and 
cook for about fifteen minutes; then add the meat mixture, stir 
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bake till brown, frequently basting with the gravy, 

And on the third day — 
Meat-Roll a l'Americaine 

Ly Tuesday, Sunday's roast becomes a problem- 
The housewife who treats her family to this new 
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which delights everyone. It may be used in soups 
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Always ready for use, Minute Tapioca may be 
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Look for the familiar red and blue package with 
the Minute Man on your grocers shelf. The new 
Minute Cook Book gladly sent free upon request. 

Minute Tapioca Company 

106 




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AMERICAN COOKERY 







"Take My Advice," says Mustardpot 
"Always Ask For — and Get 

STICKNEY & POOR'S 

Prepared Mustard 

I'll stake my reputation that you'll like it better, yes, much better than any other mustard 
you ever used. It's pure, absolutely — and so perfectly blended that once you try it on sand- 
wiches, cold meats, in salad dressings, mayonnaise, etc., no other mustard will do. Put up 
in handy glass containers in a variety of sizes. Stickney & Poor's Dry Mustard is good, too. 
It ought to be. You'd say so yourself, if you could see how carefully the finest selection of 
imported seed is chosen. There's more than a century of experience back of its preparation, 
and its full strength and fine flavor makes it the most economical to use for table or culinary 
purposes. Put up in sealed quarter and half-pound cans. Please remember, Mustard is 
only one of the "famous products of a famous house.' 1 ' Stickney & Poor's Spices, Seasonings 
and Flavorings, like Stickney & Poor's Mustards, are sure to please you. For goodness sake, 
ask for them by name." 



Stickivey «5* Poor Spice Company 

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919 
Mustard-Spices BOSTON, MASS. Seasonings-Flavorings 

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT 





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ADVERTISEMENTS 



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Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug 
screws into any electric socket without twisting 
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AMERICAN COOKERY 






Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way 

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri- 
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an 
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums: 



CONDITIONS 



• Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
- to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly 
Stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or is not paid as stated. 

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS 

Serve Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic; 
Coffee and Fruit Jelly; Pudding and other 
desserts with your initial letter raised on 
the top. Latest and daintiest novelty for 
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take a needle and run it around inside of 
mould, then immerse in warm water; jelly 
will then come out in perfect condition. 
Be the first in your town to have these. 
.,,, . , ,, ... , , ., ,, You cannot purchase them at the stores. 

I his shows the jelly turned from the mould * 

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription. 





This shows mould 
(upside down) 

Cash Price 75 cents. 



"PATTY IRONS' 5 




As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky 
pates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv- 
ing hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables, 
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes 
securely packed in an attractive box with recipes 
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for 
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 



AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME 
AND EGGS 

Does the work 
quicker and bet- 
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be done in any 
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will be sent post- 
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sending us one 
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FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN 




Best qulity blued steeL 6 inches wide by 13 
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new 
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SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN 




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pans. 




HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD 

Imported, Round, 6 inch 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
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PREMIUMS 




PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES 

(Bag not shown in cut) 

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made 
especially for Bakers and Caterers./ Eminently suit- 
able for home use. W 

The set sent, prepaid, forgone (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, 75 cents. 




THE A. M. C. 
ORNAMENTER 

Rubber pastry bag and 
twelve brass tubes, assorted 
designs, for cake decorat- 
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two (2) new subscriptions. 

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LOOSE BOTTOM 

ROUND 9 INCH 

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price 75 cents for two pans. 



TRIPLICATE SAUCEPAN 

Aluminum, detachable handle. Cooks three things at once, on one cover. 

Convenient and a fuel saver. 

Sent, prepaid, for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash price $3.00. 





HOME CANDY MAKING 
OUTFIT 

Thermometer, dipping wire, moulds, and 
most of all, a book written by a professional 
and practical candy maker for home use. Sent, 
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price, $3.00. 




ROTARY 

MINCING 

KNIFE 



Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect- 
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and the shield frees the knives from the materials 
being cut. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash 
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3^Pint Aluminum Double Boiler 

A heavy, superior 

article. An absolute 

necessity in every 

:itchen. Sent, prepaid, as 

>remium for two (2) new 

inscriptions. Cash Price 







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AMERICAN COOKERY 




CCPYRISHT 1919 BY THE PSCCTER 4 6AMSLE CO.. CINCINNAT 




HE woman who appreciates 
beautiful old china takes pride 
and pleasure in washing her treas- 
ured bowls and jugs and plates. 
Just as she values the china too 
highly to entrust its care to servants, so is 
she particular to use for its cleansing 
nothing but pure, mild Ivory Soap. 

Ivory Soap cannot injure either painted or 
gold decorations on china, because Ivory 
contains no free alkali nor any other 



injurious ingredient. Neither does Ivory 
contain unsaponified oil; its thick, cleans- 
ing suds rinse off easily and thoroughly, 
leaving no filmy streaks to cloud the 
polished surface. 

Ivory makes dishes clean in the strictest 
sense. It leaves hands soft, white and 
smooth — an Ivory quality that is im- 
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own housework and is careful of her 
appearance. 



IVORY SOAP . 




99 &# PURE 



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80 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Painted by W. V. Cahill for Cream of Wheat Co. 



Copyright 1909 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXIV AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1919 No. 2 



CONTENTS FOR AUGUST -SEPTEMBER 

PAGE 

HOME LIFE IN PIONEER DAYS. Ill Jane Vose 91 

THE ARTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS IN THE HOME. 

Ill Alice Urquhart Fewell 95 

DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION Ladd Plumley 97 

A MODERN SAGA Ellen M. Ramsay 101 

SAVING STRENGTH IN THE HOME . . Mary S. O'Rourke 102 

AUNT ANNA'S COMPANY CAKE Ruth Fargo 105 

OH COME AWAY . . . . Caroline L. Sumner 107 

TRAVELING COMPANIONS May Belle Brooks 108 

A THEORY Arthur Wallace Peach 109 

EDITORIALS 110 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone 
engravings of prepared dishes) 

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 113 

MENUS FOR ONE WEEK IN AUGUST . . Wealtha A. Wilson 121 

MENUS FOR INSTITUTIONAL COOKING . . . Janet M. Hill 122 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN SEPTEMBER . . Wealtha A. Wilson 123 

FOOD NOTES FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER . . . Janet M. Hill 124 

RECONSTRUCTED GRAPE JELLY .... Wealtha A. Wilson 125 

PESTS MADE PROFITABLE Ida R. Fargo 127 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — A Raisin for Every Day — 
If You Do Your Own Tinting — Goggles When Peeling Onions — 
Currant Jelly — Save Your Cake Crumbs — Get Your Money's 

Worth, etc 129 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 133 

THE SILVER LINING 138 

MISCELLANEOUS 146 



$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy Q$ 

Foreign postage 40c additional 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright. 1919, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 

Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

82 





ADVERTISEMENTS 




When you want 

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use the 

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Makes Mayonnaise in 4 Minutes 
Beats Eggs in 1 Minute 
Mixes Omelettes 
Whips Gelatine 
Mixes Ice Cream 
Mixes Custards 



Will 
even 
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the cream 
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of a milk bot- 
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to long, tedious, old- 
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The perforated blade works at 
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If your dealer can't supply you, send his 
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CASEY HUDSON COMPANY 

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BRANCH OFFICES 

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and can be used 

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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

83 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



INDEX FOR AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 



Artistic Arrangement of Flowers in the Home, 

Aunt Anna's Company Cake 

Douglas' Maid Selection 

Editorials .... 

Food Notes for August-September 

Home Ideas and Economies 

Home Life in Pioneer Days 

Menus 

Miscellaneous 

Modern Saga, A . 

Oh Come Away 

Pests Made Profitable 

Reconst. ^cted Grape Jelly 

Saving Strength in the Home 

Silver Lining, The 

Theory, A . 

Traveling Companions . 



The 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



Apples Stuffed with Nuts and Raisins. Ill 

Cake, Dainty White 

Cake, Hot Water Sponge 

Cheese Ramequins 

Coffee, Iced, with Orange 

Corn, Stewed Green, with Peppers 

Dainties, Tea 

Dessert, One-Two-Three. 111. 

Dressing for Pershing Salad 

Dressing for Potato Salad 

Drinks, Hot Weather. 111. 

Dumplings, Baked Apple. 111. 

Egg Plant, Scalloped 

Eggs Au Gratin 

Eggs, Stuffed, for Buffet Supper or Picnic 

Eggs, Swiss Style. 111. . 



111. 



116 Fruit, Half-Jellied . 

118 Lemonade 

119 Pancakes 

117 Pastry for Meat Pies 

120 Pepper, Spiced 

114 Pie, Beefsteak and Kidney. 
119 Pie, Salmon . 

119 Punch, Mint 120 . 

115 Punch, Tea . 

114 Salad, Pershing. 111. 

120 Salad, Potato, Summer Style 

115 Salt, Spiced . 
114 Sherbet, Orange 
117 Tarts, Peach. 111. 
117 Tomato, Paring a, without Scalding 
117 Vegetable Marrow, Sauted 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



Chowder, Canned Vegetable 
Dressing, Cooked Salad . 
Pickles, Sour Cucumber . 
Pickles, Sweet Cucumber 
Pie, Lower Crust in Lemon 
Pie Crust, Recipe for Tender 



136 Pudding, Chocolate with Bread 

136 Pudding, Devil's Food Chocolate 

134 Salad, Molded Cream Cheese . 

134 Sauce, Drawn Butter Pudding 

133 Sauce for Chocolate Pudding . 

134 Sauce, Whipped Cream Substitute 



PAGE 
95 

105 
97 
110 
124 
129 
91 
121-123 
146 
101 
107 
127 
125 
102 
138 
109 
108 



117 
120 
116 
113 
116 
113 
118 
120 
120 
115 
114 
117 
129 
118 
116 
114 



133 
133 
136 
134 
133 
134 



We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for 
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make 
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a 
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BOSTON, MASS. 



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84' 



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Mrs. Rorer's 

COOKERY 
BOOKS 



Like the clasp of a friendly 
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This book goes into the whole subject of vege- 
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Cloth, $1.50 



EVERY DAY MENU BOOK 

A menu for every meal in the year, besides 
menus for Special Occasions and Functions. 

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DIET FOR THE SICK 

Valuable in sickness. What to feed and how 
to prepare it, for all diseases. 

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KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY 

A new-plan cook book. Its very simplicity 
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Mrs. Rorer's own selection of the best things 
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Tells how to can and preserve fruits and vege- 
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Mrs. Rorer says that a salad should be seen 
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Contains a large number of enticing and valua- 
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For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or 

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AMERICAN COOKERY 




This cant happen 

if you use only 

GOOD(§)LUCK 

The Original COLD PACK Jar Rubbers 

in canning fruits and vegetables by 
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Our booklet, " Cold Pack Canning, " teaches 
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If your grocer doesn't keep GOOD LUCK 
RINGS, send 15c in stamps fer a sample dozen 



Boston 

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27 Hampshire Street 
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A Manual of 

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By THEODORA M, CARRELL 

Practical, simple directions for the 
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Net $1.50 

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For a limited time we can supply all back 
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Cooking-School Magazine at regular prices. 
Order now if you wish to complete your 
files. 

We will pay 20 cents each for Boston Cooking-School 

Magazine issues of December, 1914, 

June-July, 1915, June-July, 1916, 

and October, 1916 

Address 

American Cookery, Boston, Mass. 



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86 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Four Invaluable Cook Books 



K 




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New Edition 

THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

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By 

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

FOR many years the acknowledged leader of all cook books, this new 1919 edition 
contains, in addition to its fund of general information, 2,117 recipes; all of which 
have been tested at Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking-School; together with additional 
chapters on the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on the Drying of Fruits and Vege- 
tables, and on Food Values. With over 133 illustrations. §00 pages. $2.25 net. 




KITCHENETTE COOKERY 

By ANNA MERRITT EAST 

Formerly New Housekeeping Editor, 
" The Ladies' Home Journal." 

THE arrangement of utensils and supplies in 
the tiny kitchenette of a modern apartment, 
and the menus and recipes to be used, are con- 
tained in this up-to-date cook book. This book 
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the elimination of waste in food is one of the 
greatest problems we face." — New York Sun. 

With 32 pages of illustrations. $1.25 net 



THE CANDY COOK BOOK 

By ALICE BRADLEY 

Principal of 
Miss Farmer s School of Cookery 

THE recipes in " The Candy Cook Book " are 
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Illustrated. $1.25 net 



CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 

By JANET McKENZIE HILL 

Author of " Cooking for Two," " The Book of Entrees," " Salads, Sandwiches and 
Chafing Dish Dainties," " The Up-to-Date Waitress." 

IN this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented by a teacher 
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Recommended by the American Library Association: — " Aims to present the latest ideas on the 
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Illustrated from photographs. 12mo., Cloth. $1.25 net. 




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AMERICAN COOKERY 





and 



Sanitary 

Inside and Out 




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88 



Protein Foods for August-September 

Beef, Veal, Lamb, Chicken, Fowl, Fish (cod, haddock, sword fish) 
Eggs, Milk, Custard, Custard Puddings 



Carbohydrate Foods for August-September 

Breakfast Cereals 
Various Kinds of Yeast Breads 

" " Baking Powder Breads 
Cake, Cookies, Pastry 
Puddings of Starchy Material and Fruit 
Starchy Vegetables, as Potatoes (white and sweet) 
Some Fruits, as Bananas, Grapes 



Flavor Foods for August-September 

Celery, Onions, Green Peppers, Tomatoes, Apples, Berries, Plums, Grapes 



Protective Food for All Seasons 

Milk and Green Vegetables 



American Cookery 



VOL. XXIV 



AUGUST— SEPTET I B ER 



No. 2 



Home Life in Pioneer Days 

By Jane Vos 



THERE is a great divergence be- 
tween our present day extrava- 
gant tendencies and the simple 
tastes of our ancestors. How widely 
separated we are from their modes of life 
and thought we do not realize, until, per- 
chance, we visit an old-time house around 
which clings the atmosphere of by-gone 
days. 

Even the old log cabias of the pioneers, 
those landmarks which are few and scat- 
tered in these days of progress, have a 
certain quaint charm about them that is 
in refreshing contrast to the modern style 
of architecture, with all its elaborate 
details and color-schemes for painting. 

Fortunately, through the efforts of 
Historical Landmarks Societies and pri- 
vate individuals, who realize the impor- 
tance of preserving these relics of olden 
times, there are some interesting museums 
throughout the country, which are not 
listed as state or national institutions. 
In some parts of the country, also, the 
primitive life is still lived, as in the middle 
West and South, for instance, where to 
this day one sees the same old well-sweeps, 
mills, fireplaces and relics as were in use 
a century ago. The daily life, too, is 
much the same, especially in the Alle- 
ghany Alountains. A description of one 
cabin will suffice for all. 

One can fancy the building of a cabin 
in the early days, when the sturdy pioneer 
hewed his own beams for his simple 
wilderness home, from which splendid 
sons were to go forth to take their places 
in the world. The tallest and strongest 
trees were none too good to be sacrificed 
for this primitive house, which was rudely 



built on the principle of a rail fence, and 
when all the chinks were filled in with a 
mud plaster, and a picturesque chimney 
added, the cabin was ready for occupancy. 
As one pushes open the wooden-hinged 
door of the cabin, which is decorated with 
a stretched coon-skin, as it doubtless was, 
frequently, in by-gone days, the wheels 
of time seem to turn backward. There 
stands the old clock, towering to the 
roof of the cabin, ticking off the minutes 
and striking the hours just as it has done 
for the past two centuries, and it still 
keeps perfect time. This old time-piece 
was formerly owned by a man who kept 
a village store, where customers had to 
ring a dinner bell to call him to his dust 
covered counters and antiquated shelves. 




"HOME, SWEET HOME," EXTERIOR 



91 



92 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



To be sure, the winters were long, and 
there were not the luxuries of our modern 
houses; but there was a huge fireplace, 
ac r es of fuel near at hand and strong 
willing hands to keep a cheerful fire 
burning on the hearth where the cricket 
chirped as merrily as if there was no 
such thing as winter. 

There were many odd contrivances for 
keeping warm in the winter time, and 
examples of these are to be seen in the 
old log cabin. There are foot stoves, 
which were carried in the hand to church 
and other places. Then there is the 
old-fashioned copper bed-warmer, which 
was a great comfort in the days of auld 
lang syne, and which was filled with hot 
coals and passed back and forth between 
the sheets or blankets to warm the bed. 

One can imagine the good cheer and 
companionship of those who sat around 
the great stone fireplace in the evening 
and watched the blue and red flames 
dance up the huge chimney, while the 
snow drifted without and the wind 



whistled around the corners of the little 
cabin. What cared they for the wind 
and snow, when they had one another, 
and the comforts of a fire, which many 
an apartment dweller might covet. 

The family life, in pioneer times, must 
have been very pleasant, for no house 
was too poor to shelter several lads and 
lassies, and, thrown upon their own re- 
sources for companionship, as they were, 
they became better acquainted with one 
another, and father and mother always 
shared the good times. The little people 
were quite as eager to hear tales of when 
father and mother were children as our 
own youngsters are today, and when 
candles burned low the family gathered 
close about the fireplace, while stories of 
the long ago were repeated. 

This form of entertainment was varied, 
and always afforded pleasure to the par- 
ticipants. Sometimes it was father who 
told of his boyhood home in the far East, 
where he and mother went to school 
together, when they were little children. 




AN OLD-TIME FIREPLACE AND KITCHEN 



HOME LIFE IN PIONEER DAYS 



93 




IN COLONIAL OR PIONEER DAYS 



Often it was a tale of prowess when 
father went hunting, and had a combat 
with some wild creature whom he con- 
quered speedily. Or, perhaps, grand- 
mother sat at her spinning wheel and 
told the wee tots wonderful stories, which 
she manufactured even as she related 
them, for grandmother's mind was an 
imaginative one, and her tongue as ready 
to spin stories as her distaff was to spin 
the flax. Meantime, some of the young- 
sters cracked the nuts they had gathered 
in the autumn, while others shelled 
yellow ears of corn, which afterwards 
filled the great iron pot over the coals 
with white flaky kernels that fairly 
melted in the mouth. Sometimes little 
Rufus or Elizabeth would become impa- 
tient, because the corn popped so slowly, 
then grandmother would divert their 
minds by suggesting that they dance up 
and down in front of the fireplace and 
sing their popcorn song. 
; 'Pop! Pop! Pop! the kettle now is hot, 



Oh, Popcorn man, please hurry up and 
pop! pop! pop!" 

Meantime grandmother sat before her 
wheel with busy fingers and with a 
twinkle in her merry eyes that proclaimed 
her seventy-five years young. And when 
the corn would commence to pop she 
would say, "There, children, you see the 
popcorn man heard you, and you will 
soon have a kettle full of corn." And, 
of course, they believed in the incanta- 
tion, bless their dear childish hearts, 
which were filled with many superstitions. 

There was always a wooden cradle in 
the house in those days, and while mother 
was busy knitting warm mittens and 
stockings for father and the children, she 
never forgot to give the cradle an occa- 
sional touch with her foot to keep up the 
gentle swaying motion, so loved by his 
Babyship. Such modern inventions as 
mechanical cradles, where a button is 
pressed and electricity does the rest, like 
those which are built in the walls of the 



94 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



houses of the wealthy, would have been 
scoffed at by the pioneer mother. Her 
tender heart would naturally have re- 
sented any such interference with her 
maternal rights, and she would have felt 
that she had missed something vital in 
her experience of motherhood, could she 
not have kept the cradle rocking by her 
own pedal extremities. 

The large room which served as a 
living-room and kitchen was the center 
of the family life. At one end were the 
"best things," — the writing table, with 
its quill pen and dish of sand to be sifted 
over the writing, in lieu of a blotter. 
Here, too, was the ladder which led to the 
attic, and a steep climb it must have 
been. At the other end of the room was 
the fireplace, and it was here that all 
the simple meals were prepared, and the 
kettle of water was always kept boiling 
on the great iron crane. The old fire- 
place is reminiscent of the sports of the 
hunter, and many a wild duck or turkey, 
stuffed with a dressing of beechnuts, was 






sacrificed over the glowing coals for the 
family reunion at Thanksgiving or Christ- 
mas time. Even the set of toasting forks 
beside the fireplace brings back a vision 
of a rosy-cheeked woman preparing the 
simple breakfast in the early morning 
light. 

Apples were as much of a luxury in the 
early days as pomegranates are to us now, 
but in due time the pioneer farmer had 
his orchard and his garden, and long rows 
of dried apples offered decorative pos- 1 
sibilities, stretched, as they were, from 
beam to beam, drying for pies and pud- 
dings. Popcorn, too, hung from the 
ceiling by the dry husks, handy for the 
popper, when such a treat was desired. 

The Lares and Penates of the pioneer 
housewife were not so numerous as are 
those of our twentieth century civiliza- 
tion. Home-spun, linen tablecloths, 
towels, sheets and blankets, and patch- 
work quilts, in every-day use, comprised 
her stock of household supplies. No 
Concluded on page 142 



... 




MANY AN OLD DINING-ROOM COULD BE MADE ATTRACTIVE LIKE THIS 



The Artistic Arrangement of Flowers 

Home 

By Alice Urquhart Fewell 



in 



th. 



STUDY Mother Nature, for in her 
keeping lies the secret of the suc- 
cessful arrangement of flowers. 
Before we can arrange flowers artistically 
and attractively in the home, we must 
first study them as they grow in the 
garden. Color-schemes, grouping, and 
general relationship between flowers and 
foliage must all be studied directly from 
nature, if we are to produce a natural and 
artistic effect when the flowers are gath- 
ered and brought in the house. 

The selection of a suitable vase or bowl 
is of prime importance, in arranging 
flowers. Flowers that belong to a 
class of low-growing plants should be 
arranged in low bowls, while those of the 
long-stem variety require a tall, slender 
vase. Many flowers that grow in 
groups, as some of the spring lilies, iris, 
etc., are most attractive when arranged 
in a low dish with the stems supported by 
a flower holder. These flower-holders 
may be bought in various shapes and 
patterns. We have the round glass 
holders, perforated with holes to support 
the stem of the flower, and others come 
in bronze and different metals, and are 
fashioned to represent ducks, fish, frogs, 
etc. These metal holders look especially 
attractive in the water, and they may be 
purchased at any store carrying Japanese 
or Oriental things. A very natural 
arrangement of flowers can be produced 
by means of these holders, and by the 
use of the wire frame. The wire frames 
come in different sizes ready to fit any 
vase or bowl. The frame holds the 
flowers in place, and is of very practical 
value when a large group of flowers are 
to be arranged in one vase. The wire 
mesh keeps each stem apart, and prevents 
a heavy massed appearance. 

Flowers must always be cut, never 
broken or pulled from the stem, and they 




SPRING FLOWERS IN LOW GLASS BOWL 

should be placed in water as soon as 
possible after they are gathered. Dahlias 
and other flowers that wilt quickly 
may have their stems dipped into boiling 
water for a few minutes before they are 
arranged in the vase. This seals the 
stem, and the flowers will keep fresh 
longer after they are cut. Nearly all 
flowers will keep longer if a little piece 




JAPANESE ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS 



95 



96 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



is cut from the stem each day, and the 
water changed frequently. 

Figure 1 shows an arrangement of 
spring lilies grouped in a cut-glass bowl 
and supported by a glass flower-holder. 
This makes an especially attractive 
centerpiece for a spring luncheon. The 
flowers and leaves are grouped as they 
grow in the garden, and a very natural 
result is obtained. The leaves and 
flowers are cut into different lengths, as 
they are found in nature. Whenever 
possible use the foliage which belongs to 
a particular flower, and not that of 
another variety of plant, although ferns 
may be arranged with almost any flower 
to good advantage. 

Figure II illustrates the Japanese 
arrangement of flowers. Only a few 
well-chosen flowers are grouped together 
in a low dish. In Japan one sees fre- 
quently only a single flower or branch in 
a vase, and a Japanese housewife may 
spend half an hour in the arrangement of 
a single branch. The correct placing of 
the flower is the secret of the Japanese 
arrangement. The iris in this illustration 
are placed in two groups, as they would 
grow in the garden, and a bud, together 
with a few leaves, is included in each 
group. Whenever possible, buds should 
be arranged with the full-blown flowers, 






• ^ r*+ »-> 




'%Sm 




£> V 


jHfe»s«,lC &* 


^w ,tf*3& «. -.*- 






\ -~- ~^^^^z - * 






GROWING FERNS TRANSFORMED BY FLOWERS 



FRUIT BLOSSOMS IN MOIST SAND 

since we naturally find them growing in 
this way. 

Figure III gives the possibilities of 
transforming a pot of growing ferns into 
an attractive centerpiece for the table 
by the addition of a few flowers. In 
winter, when flowers are scarce, this 
arrangement will be appreciated, for a few 
flowers, which might otherwise be lost in 
a vase by themselves, may be used to 
brighten up the fern dish on the dining- 
room table. If the earth in which the 
flowers are placed is kept moist, they will 
keep fresh as long as they would in water. 
To prevent breaking the stems of the 
flowers a small hole should first be made 
in the earth with a pair of scissors, or a 
knitting needle. 

The arrangement of flowers in a basket 
is illustrated in figure IV. These early 
spring fruit blossoms are grouped in a 
basket filled with wet sand, and an effect 
is produced which would be impossible 
in a vase filled with water. Baskets of 
various shapes and kinds may be used 
in this way. The baskets must be rather 
closely woven, and those with tall handles 
give an especially artistic result. The 
basket should first be lined with several 
thicknesses of heavy paper, or one may 
have an inexpensive zinc lining made to 
fit the basket. The sand should be put 
in while moist, and the flowers arranged in 
it will keep fresh, if a little water is 



DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION 



97 



poured on each day. Sand is especially 
good for the arrangement of heavy flow- 
ers and branches, which would over- 
balance an ordinary vase filled with 
water. 

The color-scheme is important in 
arranging flowers. As a rule it is well to 
keep to one color, and put only flowers 
of the same variety together. White 



flowers may be mixed with colors with 
pleasing results, and two shades of the 
same color often go well together. Green 
of some kind, preferably the foliage of the 
flower itself, should be included in every 
arrangement. A study of nature will 
reveal more about the arrangement of 
flowers than a whole book written on the 
subject. 



Douglas' Maid Selection 

By Ladd Plumley 



WHILE on a visit in Albany Mrs. 
Laurie selected a new maid, 
whom her son agreed to meet at 
the Grand Central Station. After he 
met the maid he intended to spend the 
afternoon at golf. 

For fear of the dangers of stations, and 
for fear that Douglas, who is very for- 
getful, would not identify the maid, 
instructions were sent by Airs. Laurie 
to pin a white ribbon on her person. 
Ancient device, but frequently resorted 
to. 

The train was a half-hour late, leaving 
but a few minutes for Douglas to catch 
his outgoing train to the golf club. 
Passengers were endless; infinite luggage, 
infinite confusion, infinite faces. Douglas 
danced back and forth, straining his 
eyes for the signal. Intent on a flag of 
white, which he believed would be con- 
spicuous, he failed to notice a slim girl, 
in a loose grey coat, who carried a small 
hand satchel, and was attempting to see 
all the faces, at once, beyond the ropes. 
Douglas would have missed the telltale, 
if a porter had not blocked the way, 
causing the ribbon to flutter directly 
under his eyes. 

"Quick!" he exclaimed, grabbing the 
girl's satchel. "Right this way. In a 
tearing hurry — train late — must catch 
another. On the run, now!" 

This, as with broad shoulders, he 
separated the crowd, his companion 



jostled at the rear and with difficulty 
keeping him in sight. Shame on Douglas ! 
Not until he helped the girl into the taxi 
did lights of what can be called heart- 
smashers hold his own. When they 
did, he glanced below the eyes at the 
flushed cheeks and yet below at the 
youthful figure in the loose coat. He 
gasped. But back in his mind was the 
thought of the train and his golf sticks 
in the package room. 

" Must catch my train — three minutes. 
My mother said not to expect to see her — 
shopping. They'll tell you — " He 
could not bring himself to give his 
mother's message to this young goddess. 
"Got to hump myself. They will tell 
you." 

Although the heart-smashers were those 
of a house maid, they performed their 
task. His train and the golf sticks were 
for the moment forgotten as he gazed 
after the cab. The girl, too, was gazing 
back, seemingly in wonderment. It was 
a miracle he caught his train. 

"You'll need a grip on yourself!" 
he exclaimed, as he threw himself into 
a seat. "What was the color: Hang 
me if I know. But think of a maid with 
eyes like that handing me the butter! 
Gee whiz! Hang it! Why can't one 
of the girls I know have decent eyes? 
And you'll look nice, you will, letting 
a girl like that take your hat and cane. 
What was the color?" 



98 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



He piled up a duffer's score, made his 
caddy weep, and did other things that 
proved the power of eyes. He hardly 
knew what he did. He smashed the 
ball, not caring whether he ever saw it 
again, and lost three with never a regret. 
Finally, with positive joy, he fractured 
his best driver. He was glad when it 
was time to return home. 

He hesitated before he pressed the call 
button at the door. Would she of the 
eyes let him in? What was he that he 
should expect such favors from an Albany 
goddess? What was more important, 
how was he to conduct himself? As a 
starter he would not risk the eyes. The 
door opened and looking downward he 
tdok note of what protruded from the 
bottom of a blue gown. Two broad feet, 
encased in solid footgear. Heavens! 
Could the goddess have feet like that? 
But the feet brought confidence. If 
you remembered the feet, you might 
bring yourself to ask the girl to pass the 
butter. His eyes traveled upward and 
he gazed upon a stolid face, where green- 
tinted orbs looked at him kindly. 

" Ellen, sir," said the woman. " Dinner 
will be served in fifteen minutes. The 
madam is in her room.'' 

"May I ask," began Douglas, when 
he and his mother were seated and the 
new maid had stumped toward the 
kitchen. 

"It is your mother who will do the 
asking," replied Mrs. Laurie. "And 
for tying things into knots you are 'the 
limit,' as you would say." 

"As how?" 

"You. go to meet a maid — she is 
stupid, perhaps, and she made a mistake, 
but that doesn't excuse you for kid- 
napping a beautiful young woman. Mary 
tells me she is beautiful. You kidnap 
her and send her here. She is evidently 
a stranger in the city. She is taken to 
the servant's room and told to clean 
silver and wipe up floors." 

"Great heavens!" exclaimed Douglas, 
as the eyes of his remembrance gathered 
scorn. 



'The young lady is frightened. Then 
— I cannot blame her — she's angry. 
She demands a cab. She flings herself 
from the apartment. What could you 
expect? She doesn't leave her name or 
the name of the friends whom she is 
visiting. I cannot make an apology. 
It's a pretty mess. Even with your 
forgetfulness — and I told you that Ellen 
had light hair and green eyes — never 
would I have believed it of you!" 

"Great heavens!" repeated Douglas. 
"But she did have a bit of white." 

"A coincidence," said Mrs. Laurie. 
And Ellen is a little stupid. She had a 
notion that it was to identify her body, 
in case of an accident. Had it pinned to 
her stocking. But she gave a policeman 
our name and he looked it up in the 
directory and sent her by the subway." 

"But the other? Didn't any one have 
sense enough to find out where she's 
visiting?" stormed Douglas. 

"You know little of young women. It 
wasn't a compliment to be told to wipe 
up floors. No girl would leave an 
address." 

"Bad cess to that cook!" exclaimed 
Douglas, adding under his breath some- 
thing about eyes. 

"We do not select maids by gazing into 
their eyes," remarked Mrs. Laurie. 

Douglas gulped a hasty meal. There 
might be a chance that the taxi could be 
identified. But when the cook was con- 
sulted, all she knew was that the hall 
boy obtained a taxi, and questioning the 
boy brought no information. He called 
a vacant taxi, and that was all he knew. 

That night Douglas woke from a night- 
mare. He had inserted a dream adver- 
tisement in the papers. "Wanted by a 
young man, who mistook her for a 
servant, the address of a slim young 
goddess, clothed in a loose grey coat, and 
with eyes like bronze stars. If there's 
any doubt, examine the eyes. Answer 
immediately. The advertiser has already 
lost his appetite and cannot sleep." 
He sank into more dream-disturbed 
slumber, where a multitude of girls, all 



DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION 



99 



wonderful as to figure and eyes, but with 
feet like those of Uncle Sam, sat in rows, 
cleaning silver and harrowing his soul 
with scornful glances. 

He was late the following morning at 
breakfast. When he entered the dining- 
room, his mother was seated. "There's 
somebody waiting to see you," she said. 

"Probably wants to get my vote. 
There're slathers of vote hunters. Before 
I see him I'll eat breakfast. And — that 
fool business yesterday. What an idiot 
I was!" 

"Still dreaming of the girl — and the 
eyes!" 

"Mater — it's foolish, perhaps, but 
I'm going to try and find that girl. But 
that's the trouble with a big city. You 
might search for years and never — " 

"Excuse me," said the new maid, 
coming into the room. "Here's the 
gentleman's card. He says he can't 



?> 



wait 

Douglas was met by a man of red face 
and particularly big mustache, who 
greeted him with great familiarity. 

"Mr. Douglas Laurie," he said in a 
loud voice. "The elevator man chucked 
me your name." 

"That's my name." 

"I'll take your word for it," said the 
visitor. "It doesn't matter what your 
name is. You'll have to come right 
along with me." 

"What in blazes do you mean?" 

"I've looked you up some. You seem 
straight goods, but we get fooled a lot. 
I've landed heaps what seemed all right. 
Anyhow, you've got to come with me." 

"There's a blasted blunder some- 
where," said Douglas. "I suppose you 
want me to go to a station house, I'll 
get my hat and coat and tell my mother 
a bit of business has come up. No doubt 
it's a case of mistaken identity." 

"Most likely," chucked the man. 
'Till we find the goods on *em, it's 
mostly mistaken identity." 

When the turn of the inspector and 
Douglas came in the line before the rail, 
the official at the desk, after turning the 



pages of a book before him, snapped 
sharply to Douglas. "You're accused 
of stealing a woman's money — Grand 
Central — yesterday afternoon. You 
put her in a taxi and sent her where they 
attempted to keep her and make her do 
some kind of work. We have lots of 
funny business at railroad stations. Stand 
one side. I'll phone the lady. She's 
coming to identify you arid make a 
charge." 

"It's a blunder," stammered Douglas. 
"My mother — " 

"When a game gets strung up, it's 
always a blunder," remarked the official. 

"I can give prominent references. I 
can prove — " 

"Stand one side!" 

For a half-hour Douglas fidgeted in 
the human riffraff, the detective close 
beside him. Then a girl entered, with a 
young man at her side. The group 
opened a passage for her, and Douglas 
gazed toward the eyes of his dreams, 
which were indignantly fixed upon him. 

"Is this the man who met you at the 
Grand Central and ran away with your 
money after putting you in a taxi?" 

The girl breathlessly gave her assent. 

"How much did he* lift?" 

The girl motioned to her companion. 
"I'll tell the story," he said. "My 
cousin has never been in New York 
before. She hasn't seen me since she was 
a little girl. I was to meet her. She 
thought this fellow was me. He pushed 
her into a taxi. Her money was in her 
hand satchel. He ran with it." 

"How much?" asked the officer. 

"All the money father gave me to 
spend in New York," replied the girl. 
"Five hundred dollars!" 

Douglas felt his legs weaken, as if they 
had turned into something of the strength 
of boiled macaroni. 

"Got on the track of the wrong taxi," 
explained the inspector. "That's why 
I didn't land my man last night, when 
the theft was reported." 

"When you saw the thief running with 
your satchel, why didn't you call a 



100 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



policeman?" asked the officer of the 
young lady. 

"I didn't see him run away with the 
satchel," explained the girl. "He ran 
away fast, but I didn't see the satchel. 
I thought he'd put the satchel in the 
cab. I Was confused. He hurried me 
so! I thought he was my cousin. It 
was all stupid, but with the bustle, I 
didn't think of my satchel until the 
horrid woman tried to make me stay. 
Then I was frightened and wanted some- 
body to go and catch the thief. I 
thought I would know the house again, 
but I didn't. But that is the man who 
took my money." 

"I did not take the lady's satchel!" 
exclaimed Douglas. "I did put it in the 
cab. But I was confused, too — a blunder 
— something, your honor, a fellow can't 
tell — not here." Not the threat of a 
state prison would have made him tell to 
the scowling official and the crowd of the 
room that he mistook this gloriously 
beautiful girl for Ellen of Uncle-Sam feet 
and green eyes. "I can give you, sir, 
the names of many persons who will tell 
you this charge is absurd. Perhaps the 
young lady left the satchel in the taxi. 

"Unsatisfactory answers," said the 
official. "You're charged with stealing 
a large sum of money." He turned to the 
detective. "Is the taxi driver here?" 

The detective pointed to a stout young 
man in the dress of a chauffeur. "First 
chop record," said the detective. 

The driver was questioned, and said he 
saw the valise dangling from the arm of 
the girl's escort as he raced away. " Why 
didn't you give chase or call an officer?" 
asked the magistrate. 

"How could I know the fellow was a 
crook? He might have been the fare's 
brother or husband." 

By this time Douglas was in the condi- 
tion of mind which is known to those who 
are branded by circumstance as thieves. 
"References are no go, not in this case," 
said the official. "I'll hold you. Better 
get a lawyer. The lady and chauffeur 
will leave addresses with the clerk. 



Next case!" And Douglas was hustled 
toward the police station cell, the young 
lady directing indignant glances toward 
him as he entered the grated door. 

During the next hour, he sat in a corner 
of the cell, keeping himself as far as 
possible from the other prisoners. A 
phone message was sent to a lawyer 
friend, who came as quickly as he could, 
but whose coming seemed to Douglas to 
be delayed indefinitely. The lawyer 
listened to the confession of the blunder, 
and he was putting Douglas through a 
third degree of inquisition, trying to find 
out what became of the valise, when an 
attendant came to them. "A lady 
wants to talk with you," said the 
attendant. 

Again the girl of the indignant eyes 
appeared, accompanied by her cousin. 
"All my cousin wants is her money," 
he said. "If she gets it, she'll withdraw 
her complaint." 

"You'd better settle," whispered the 
lawyer to Dougias. "You left the valise 
somewhere, and if a dishonest person 
picked it up, we'll never see it." The 
lawyer added to himself, "Holy smoke! 
If I'd made that blunder, I'd nev<"r 
acknowledge it to this wonder of a girl!" 

"Left the valise somewhere!" the 
words repeated themselves in Douglas' 
mind. Could he have really taken the 
valise, and did he leave it somewhere? 
He was certain he did not have it when 
he took the club car for the golf grounds. 
Could he have left it in a seat of the 
train ? 

"Call up the lost property office at the 
Grand Central!" he suddenly exclaimed 
to the lawyer. "Ask them if somebody 
hasn't turned in a small black valise to 
them." 

A half-hour later, a messenger from the 
station hastened into the room, where 
Douglas, the lawyer and the young lady 
and her cousin were seated. The mes- 
senger opened a package. "Is this the 
valise ? " he asked. " The owner will have 
to prove her property." 

"It is my valise," said the young lady. 



DOUGLAS' MAID SELECTION 



101 



"Those are my initials. It's locked and 
I have the key here." 

A few moments later the prisoner and 
the others were summoned before the 
magistrate again. "I'm told the valise 
was left in a Harlem train, and that the 
young lady has found her money and 
withdraws her complaint. I'll dismiss 
you, young man, but you must explain 
why you put a stranger into a taxi — that 
must be cleared up." 

The lawyer stepped behind the rail 
and made a whispered statement to the 
magistrate, who smiled broadly as he 
heard it. Meantime Douglas would have 
liked to have been anywhere but where 
he was. 

"I understand!" chuckled the magis- 
trate. "Case dismissed. But, young 
man, allow me to advise you that in 
the future, when you meet an unknown 
lady at a station, you ask her name — 
it's always a wise precaution." 

With his accuser and the rest of the 
party, the prisoner pushed toward the 
door of the station house. Near the 
entrance, the jostling crowd separated 
the two for a few moments from the 
others. Douglas found himself close to 
the girl's side. She looked up at him, 



and her eyes became merry with amuse- 
ment. "Your lawyer took me to one 
side and told me," she said. "Cousin 
Henry hasn't seen me since 1 was a little 
girl. Mother arranged about the white 
telltale. I've never been in New York 
before, and she was afraid something 
would happen to me. That' how you 
made the funny mistake." 

"Will you please let me call and, in a 
less public place ask you to forgive me?' 
pleaded Douglas. 

She stopped for a moment in the 
crowd, shyly holding out her hand. "I 
suppose I'll have to," she said, as Douglas 
clasped the cool little hand in his. "You're 
a desperate character and a kidnapper, 
and I dare not refuse." 

The detective who gathered in Douglas 
always keeps tab on his "past clients," 
as he calls them. Six months after he 
rounded up Douglas, he said to the man 
at the next desk, in the dingy detective 
room at the station house, "There's a 
marriage notice of one of my former 
clients," and he pointed to the paper. 
"That forgetful guy who left the star-eye 
skirt's valise on the Harlem train! The 
guy married the dame. I got the hunch 
he would." 



A Modern Saga 



I write a theme, oft sung by sage, 
Though laid in this, our modern age, 
A Poet's love for Lady Fair, 
To whom he poured his soulful prayer. 

"O Maid!" he cried, "thy, hair divine 
Wast webbed by fays from trapped sunshine. 
The maiden smiled and shook her head, 
"It cost me twenty bones," she said. 

"Thy form would grace a Grecian urn, 
Fair Venus' own it well might spurn." 
"Oh no," sighed she, "you're wrong again, 
A straight front, price, ten iron men." 



Thy eyes are blue as amethyst, 
Thy mouth was made but to be kissed;" 
She answered in a pleasant way, 
"It also eats three meals per day." 

"0 Queen of Nymphs, pray marry me, 
We'll live with bliss and poetry." 
Said she, "I'll take you for my beau, 
When you've a job that gets the dough." 

The Poet left. His soul was hurt. 
He said she was a shallow flirt, 
The Maiden smiled behind her fan, 
And straightway wed the grocery man. 

— Ellen M. Ramsay- 




Saving Strength in the Home 

By Mary Stone O'Rourke 

Director of Domestic Science, Adelphi Academy, Brooklyn 



THE manufacturer of the twentieth 
century considers it a financial 
investment, as well as an excel- 
lent economy, to equip his factory with 
labor and time-saving devices, to con- 
sider the health and betterment of his 
employees, believing, with the twentieth 
century sociologist, that better conditions 
suggest better lives, that better lives 
necessitate improved health and strength 
of body and mind, and all produce a 
higher type of individual, capable of, 
perhaps, twice the endurance, and, there- 
fore, labor, at the same cost. 

Thanks to the achievements of some 
of the master minds of this century, 
machines are being made that do the 
work of matchmakers and other workmen, 
who were victims of "death-causing" 
trades. 

We hear of these triumphs of science, 
the wonders and beauties of it are all 
around us, but does it reach us? Do we 
make application of it in our mode of 
life ? Have we time to stop a moment to 
feel the new life that this machine — 
which seems to have caught its maker's 
very mind and soul — will give the 
world ? 

C Of this textile, so beautifully woven and 
gloriously colored, have we time to ad- 
mire? Will it gladden our lives, or find 
a place in our homes, just because of its 
beauty? 

And yet, every human being is respon- 
sible for making his own part of the world 
as beautiful as possible, to cause a flower 
to grow where none had bloomed before, 
to hang a picture that will mean some- 
thing in the life of the observer. The 
desire to beautify should be common to 
all mankind, but it may be absorbed and 
lost in the drudgery or wearied routine 
of our daily duties. All the outside 
world is alive, awake, interested in econ- 



omy and improvement, but within our 
homes economy seems to be in its infancy. 
And why? 

Housework is considered a drudgery, 
and in most cases, sad, indeed, it is. 
Intellectual interest is necessary in ac- 
quiring practical, as well as ordinary, 
knowledge, and nothing will aid in secur- 
ing this mental state and softening the 
"household drudgery" as a lively will to 
perform the daily tasks in a way that will 
secure the best results and save time, 
motions and strength. Let us expend a 
little to adopt this time-saving, small 
wonder-working machine. Bring into the 
house a touch of that glorious color, in 
textile or painting! Systematize each 
daily task, so that it may be most per- 
fectly done in the shortest time, and by 
utilizing least energy! Systematize — 
but how? 

First, locate the work. If in the bed- 
room or sewing room, or a combination 
of both places, an arrangement of furni- 
ture, supplies, etc., that will necessitate 
least "waste of motion" to clean, to put 
in order, to find. Have a definitely 
arranged corner for the sewing, the 
machine and comfortable chair placed 
where there is good light and air, the 
sewing stand convenient to reach, with 
all necessaries, needles, pins, thread, 
buttons, scissors, handy. Sort the kinds 
of work, and do as much of a kind as 
possible at one sitting. Bring a little of 
the modern factory speed-system into 
that little corner. Stitch as much as can 
then be stitched. Cut all that is to be 
cut at the same time; do all the basting 
without changing about, and thus avoid 
loss of time due to change, and often 
useless, thoughtless motion. 

Or in the kitchen; study here the 
placing of the fittings in their relation to 
one another. Have the sink as near the 



102 



SAVING STRENGTH IX THE HOME 



103 



range as possible; the china closet near 
the sink; the refrigerator, supply closet 
and work-table near one another. If 
possible have the refrigerator "built in," 
and so arranged that it may be iced from 
the outside, and thus economize time and 
labor of cleaning. It should be placed 
where there is light and some circulation 
of air, and when possible connected with 
a separate drain. 

Perhaps it is not within the reach of 
all to obtain one of the new fireless- 
cooker gas ranges, or the automatic elec- 
tric cooker. Think of the summer 
kitchen thus equipped, with snow-white 
floor and bright red and green geranium 
flower boxes in the windows. Yet, even 
the old-time "hay box" will save, shall 
I say, fuel first, worry, time and energy, 
and yet afford a more savory, palatable 
and, consequently, more easily digested 
meal. A white opalite glass top trans- 
forms the old kitchen work-table, if the 
legs and frame are white enameled, into 
a veritable "beauty spot," and a very 
practical one! But a zinc covering saves 
labor also, and looks very well. Often- 
times the dishes are removed and placed 
in the kitchen in disorder, thus necessi- 
tating lifting again, scraping, scouring and 
replacing, all wasted motions! It is 
convenient in some houses, where the 
sideboard is built in, to have an opening 
through which dishes may be passed to 
the kitchen. If a table be placed in the 
kitchen at this opening, which is near the 
sink, dishes may be scraped and sorted 
for washing without again being moved. 
Certainly there are advantages in the 
use of the dish-washing machine, and the 
turning of a crank in the cheaper models 
is very easy. The dishes are fitted into 
a rack, and when thoroughly washed, by 
revolving in hot, soapy suds, rinsed in 
hot water, are let stand to dry. The 
sink should be easy to clean, and high 
enough to save the back, when dish-wash- 
ing or other work is to be done there. A 
convenient high stool will rest the worker, 
and prevent undue weariness before the 
task is accomplished. If necessary to 



keep a pail of scraps indoors, place it on a 
shelf or stool, so that it can be reached 
without stooping. A nice arrangement is 
to have a large, covered porcelain jar on 
the worktable, a temporary receptacle 
for trimmings, shells, etc., and then 
remove contents to pail outside. 

Another economy of labor and energy 
is the bread-mixer; this makes better 
bread and simplifies labor. Glass jars 
and bottles clearly labeled, or a set 
marked with washable glass lettering, 
may be purchased from chemical supply 
houses. These may be filled with ready- 
prepared supplies, mixed spice, whole and 
ground, and, in small quantities, sifted 
flour and baking powder (two level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder to one level 
cup of flour). At a glance it will be seen 
when supplies are low, and the many 
motions, taking down, lifting lids, closing 
and setting back, will be saved. 

In order to economize space in a kitchen, 
it is found desirable by many to have a 
small adjustable or drop shelf. This is 
attached by hinges and a prop made to 
hold the shelf in place when in use, and 
to slip under when the shelf folds down. 
It is a convenient arrangement to have 
the flour and sugar barrels suspended on 
pivots, or roll pins may be built into the 
lower part of the cupboard. Compact 
kitchen cabinets are in the market, 
though several contain many superfluous 
accessories. By their use work may be 
done without an extra step, and, indeed, 
they are labor savers. Perhaps no house- 
hold art shows the character of the house- 
wife as does her table service. Pre- 
cision is a first requisite toward success. 
Think first, then carry in on the tray all 
things that relate to one another. There 
are several electric devices which lighten 
labor and make simple entertaining a 
delight. The chafing dish, the electric 
iron, the small electric grill, the coffee 
percolator, all add pleasure from good 
things and economize labor. 

Before clearing the table have a place 
in the kitchen or pantry prepared to 
receive the dishes, etc., and thus save 



104 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



strength and motion. Gather and re- 
move the dishes systematically, glasses 
by themselves, silver with handles to- 
gether, plates of the same size in piles. 

These are some of the essentials that 
require quiet thought that will awaken 
intellectual interest and convert the 
drudgery of housekeeping into the science 
and art of "home-making." 

The days when it was considered 
"lazy" to sit down to prepare vegetables, 
or iron small pieces, are over. To have a 
rocking chair in the kitchen was "a sign 
of a poor housekeeper," but times have 
changed, and with them the demands on 
the home-maker have increased. Science 
has taught us that the body, as a great 
machine, is ever in need of repair, build- 
ing up wasted tissues, furnishing heat and 
energy — that even, in sleep, the great 
throbbing, pulsating, vital work is being 
accomplished — that just the fact of 
existence means expended energy, in a 
greater or less degree. Times have 
changed! 

There is a greater social demand, per- 
haps more clubs and meetings, which 
mean entertaining, in turn, and changes of 
gowns and hats. The daily menus have 
changed, demanding more careful plan- 
ning to keep within the income. The 
children require more and more "style" 
to dress them. With a deeper knowledge 
of danger, and increased population, the 
perplexity of keeping a sanitary home 
has grown. Good help, at moderate 
wage, is almost impossible to obtain, and 
so the homemaker today is often heard 
to say: "I don't know where to begin; 
I have so many things to do." Then the 
best thing seems to be to rest — to make 
use of easy chair, or couch, and thor- 
oughly relax, even for ten or fifteen 
minutes. Throw off the nervous tension, 
with the feeling that everything will be 
right and accomplished if taken quietly 
and systematically. Close the eyes, let 
go nerve, brain and muscle strain, and 
rest. 

Do this before the "hopeless" feeling 
comes, before being utterly exhausted, 



before being so tired that fifteen minutes 
will not seem to count. Then start 
again to accomplish more with less 
fatigue. It is fortunate, if one can learn 
to save strength before the necessity of 
saving arises. Worry causes much waste 
of energy. 

Doing all that is possible to do should 
bring great satisfaction, not striving and 
unrest for what is impossible. Then, too, 
a dejected physical attitude tends to 
develop a dejected mental state, and 
vice-versa; and psychologists say, "We 
will be glad because we laugh." There- 
fore, a little physical culture, when de- 
jected and very tired, will often restore 
energy. Stretch the body to its full height, 
swing the arms straight over the head and 
touch the floor with the hands. Breathe 
deeply; sing a little; yes, or even dance; 
listen just a moment to the birds — all 
full of life; glance at the sun and sky 
through the trees, and feel that "All's 
right with the world." We are told that 
domestic life calls for large energy, calm 
nerves and fine physiques, for all possi- 
bilities fail when physical strength has 
waned. Housekeeping is a high art, and 
it is not necessary that a woman's health 
and happiness be sacrificed in doing what 
is elevating and essential to the happiness 
of the human race. The home is the 
cradle of destinies, and it is for the woman 
to express the "science of living." Upon 
her success to combine the science and 
art of living, making it possible and de- 
lightful for others to live, depends the 
ability and happiness of mankind. The 
safety of the home is surely more depen- 
dent on health, knowledge, refinement and 
culture than on exhausted energy and 
worry over unaccomplished and often 
unimportant details. 

With intellectual interest comes knowl- 
edge, with knowledge, systematic accom- 
plishment, with accomplishment, joy in 
work. Then housework will no longer 
be a drudgery. It will be raised by 
her whose joy it is "to shape the des- 
tinies of men" to the art of homemak- 
ing. 



Aunt Anna's Company Cake 

By Ruth Fargo 



a 



O 



H, am I too late?" The little 
bride from across the street 
flashed into Aunt Anna's kitchen 
like a shaft of welcome sunshine. She 
was a bit breathless, and stood panting 
a moment with her back against the shut 
door, her hands still clasping the knob. 

"Late? Dear me, no," assured the 
older woman placidly. "I just been 
getting things together," with which she 
placed two big blue mixing bowls on the 
kitchen table. 

" I went down to the corner with Jerry," 
explained Dorothea Dent, with a pretty 
little bride-blush, "and I was poking 
along as slow as slow coming back, just en- 
joying out-of-doors. Then I saw Uncle 
Jonas at the kitchen door. He said 
he'd been knocking most all day," 
dimpling adorably, "and that you were 
going to make company cake, and I was 
to come over. I ran every step." 

"Pshaw," deprecated Aunt Anna. 
"Jonas ain't been gone more'n a minnit. 
He just wanted to be saying suthin'." 
serenely. 

"But it's company cake? You are 
going to make company cake?" 

"Yes — that's what I told Jonas to 
say." 

"The plain kind? — with black- 
berries?" eagerly. 

"With blackberries," agreed Aunt 
Anna. "And it's so plain I donno as a 
body ought to call it 'company cake,' 
by rights. I donno's they had," doubt- 
fully. 

"It's a good name," affirmed the 
younger woman stanchly. "Everybody 
likes your berry cake, and everybody 
asks for the recipe. Now don't they? 
— Course it's company cake!" 

"Easy to make — easy's fallin' off a 
log," voiced Aunt Anna. 

"All the better for me," giggled 
Dorothea. "I'll be more apt to make 
a success of mine." 



Dorothea, indeed, had depended much 
on her pleasant neighbor for help along 
lines dietetic, for when the little bride 
had first come to the house across the 
street she knew precious little about 
cooking. "I've always been so busy 
at something else that I never had time 
to learn," she had explained to motherly 
Aunt Anna, "but if you would just 
show me — some." And Aunt Anna 
had said, "Why, child, I'd just love to do 
it. Cooking sort of comes second nature 
to me, I done it so much. But, I reckon, 
you'll have to come over and see. I 
ain't good at telling how I do things. 
Like as not I'd leave the baking powder 
out'n the biscuit, or the sugar out'n the 
rhubarb pie, if I depended on telling. 
But I alius do it right — ■ somehow, I 
seem to alius do." And Aunt Anna's 
husband had grinned over the top of his 
paper and asserted positively ■ — ■ nobody 
supposed he was listening — "Yes, you 
bet; you c'n depend on Annie's doing it 
right. Annie alius could cook. That's 
why I cum to marry her," composedly. 
"The very idea!" had exclaimed Doro- 
thea, indignantly; but Uncle Jonas, with 
a satisfied chuckle, had gone back to the 
reading of politics. But ever since that 
day, Dorothea Dent had come over and 
taken lessons in cooking from Aunt Anna, 
and today it was to be company 
cake. 

"I got the recipe, first, that time I 
visited my sister out in Oregon," said 
Aunt Anna. "There they called it 
'Loganberry Cake,' because they used 
loganberries to make it. But I use 
blackberries, or sometimes raspberries, 
since I haven't got the other. I guess, 
truth to say, a body could use most any 
kind of cooked or canned berries." 

Aunt Anna paused and looked over 
her utensils. 

"I guess we are all ready," she said. 
Then, suiting the action to the word, 

105 



106 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Sift one level teaspoonful of soda with 
two cups of flour. Soda and not baking 
powder, because the berries are acid. 
They take the same thing as buttermilk 
would — soda." 

Dorothea busily wrote in her blank 
cook book. "Soda — " she murmured 
acquiescently. 

"Now in the other bowl put one cup of 
sugar and one-half cup of shortening, 
butter substitute I am using. And have 
it warmed a little bit. It creams easier 
with the sugar and quicker. When it 
is creamed, add the yolk of one egg and 
one whole egg, and cream some more. 
Save one egg-white to make an icing 
with. I'm going to put it out on this 
big platter, and while the cake is baking 
I'll beat up the white, fluffy and dry, 
and make the icing," explained Aunt 
Anna. " But coming back to our creamed 
sugar and egg and shortening, add one- 
half teaspoonful of ground cloves and 
one level teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 
Mix well, add one cup of berries, juice 
and fruit, just as it comes, and stir 
well." 

"Do you ever use the uncooked 
berries?" questioned the little bride. 

"No," said Aunt Anna. "They must 
be cooked, fresh stewed and cooled, or 
canned. Either one's good. Now stir 
the contents of the two bowls together, 
beat well and quickly, and pour into 
a well-oiled loaf tin, and bake in a moder- 
ate oven till done. It makes a good- 
sized cake, but a body wants a good- 
sized cake when company is coming. It 
is sort of like a fruit cake, too," went on 
Aunt Anna. "Maybe that's why so 
many folks like it. Most people like 
fruit cake, though some don't. And 
then, too, this kind of a cake keeps well; 
it don't dry out like other kinds, and I 
don't want to be chained to my kitchen 
when folks come, as I want to visit a bit 
with. I want my cake made and put 
by, and ready to use. That's why Jonas 
has got to calling blackberry cake my 
Company Cake." 

Jerry liked it so much, the last you 



a 



sent over to us to try. Remember?" 
mused the little bride. 

"Men mostly do," assented Aunt 
Anna, sliding her cake into a well- 
heated oven, and pushing an asbestos 
mat into just the right spot to set it on. 
"Cake ain't near so apt to burn on the 
bottom if a mat's under it," she said. 
"And I do hate a cake burned on the 
bottom. But sometimes they will, spite 
of fate. But when that happens, I wait 
till my cake is cold and then grate off 
the burned part with a nutmeg grater. 
It don't crumble the cake, and leaves it 
looking neat and trim; and it does the 
work better than anything else I ever 
found. . . . Yes, just an ordinary nut- 
meg grater." 

Aunt Anna began putting sugar in a 
pan. " One cup," she said out loud, " and 
one-third cup of water. That's for the 
icing. Let the sugar and water boil till 
it hairs, then beat it into the whipped 
egg-white, and add a little flavoring. I 
like banana, but a body can use what 
they like best. Jonas thinks almond is 
about right." 

The cake will be out of the oven about 
the time you have the icing ready," 
speculated Dorothea. 

"Yes," answered the older woman, 
"and- the icing must go on before it 
cools — before it gets hard." 

Dorothea's musing smile ran into a 
soft rippling laugh. "Once I made a 
boiled icing first, and set it away, so it 
would be all done and ready when I 
wanted it," she said. "And when I 
wanted it — " she laughed again. "Oh, 
well, I scraped it up and sprinkled it over 
a pudding. Jerry said it was as good as 
candy. It wasn't really wasted, not 
really." 

"It is the little things that bother most 
when a body ain't used to cooking," 
agreed Aunt Anna. "The things that 
cook books don't alius tell about." She 
took from the oven a small sample cup 
cake, done and spicy smelling, and broke 
it in two. "We'll try it," she said, giving 
Dorothea a generous half, "and see if it's 



AUNT AXXA'S COMPANY CAKE 



107 



■fit to eat. . . . Well, I guess I ain't left 
out anything," critically. 

"Isn't it good," sighed the girl who 
was learning, finishing her share to the 
last crumb. And then: "It makes a 
real dark cake, doesn't it? That will 
make the frosting look pretty against the 
cut slices. White and dark color. I 
do like things to look pretty." 

Aunt Anna nodded. "It is a kind of 
cake that slices well," she added, "and 
that's something." 

She began bustling about washing at 
the white shining sink every dish that had 
been used. Dorothea slid down from her 
high stool, the high stool Aunt Anna 
always kept in her kitchen, because it 
was so handy to sit on when peeling 
potatoes, and taking a tea-towel deftly 
dried each dish. 

"I know exactly where to put every- 
thing away," she affirmed. "Do you 
know, it never occurred to me that I 
ought to wash up my cooking dishes right 



away, and not leave 'em rill after lunch, 
till I saw you do it. It isn't half the 
work, is it? They wash so easy, and 
nothing ever a bit stuck up and dried on." 

"I can't bear to see a cluttered up 
kitchen," said Aunt Anna. Then, " Want 
to wait and see me put on the 
icing? That blackberry cake is about 
done." 

"Sure, I do," nodded Dorothea Dent. 
"I want to watch it all, start to finish. 

And then I wont make a mistake 

maybe I won't make a mistake," she 
dimpled, "when I bake cake for Jerry 
and me. And sometime, maybe, I'll 
bake one for company . . . for company 
. . . or . . ." she paused. "Maybe I 
can bake one for Jerry's mother . . . 
she's coming to see us next month. And 
she's the darlingest mother-in-law a 
lucky girl ever had! You'll like her, 
Aunt Anna. And I . . . oh, I'm so 
anxious to show her I've learned to cook! 
Even ' Company Cake!' " 



Oh Come Away! 



Come with me to distant mountain where the 

ozone breezes bide, 
Health producing, health prolonging, vigor 

teeming mountain side, 
"Where the forest folk are gently nodding assent 

soft and low, 
Pine and balsam, birch and cedar rock their 

branches to and fro. 

Come, they beckon from the city, from the town 
and country side, 

Pleasure seekers of all ages, for each one they can 
provide 

Happy innocent diversions 'neath their fragrant, 
balmy shade, 

And upon their rippling waters where the moon- 
beams dance and hide. 



There'll be wading for the children, healthy 

swimming for the rest, 
Gumming, hiking, mountain climbing that will 

every muscle test, 
Sailing, rowing, motorboating and canoeing on 

the lake, 
Fishing in the trickling streamlets, picking berries 

till you ache. 

You'll develop nerveless muscle, have a twinkle 

in your eye, 
Life will have a deeper meaning, as its lessons 

you apply; 
You'll grow plumper and look younger, tan and 

freckle, blush with pride, 
As you bless the health producing, vigor-teeming 

mountain side. 



Chorus 
O come away, come away, O come away today, 
Impulse obey to laugh and play, be jolly, blithe 

and gay! 
The summer tide will quickly glide, the sun will 

southward ride, 
So come away, to the hills away, to the restful 

mountain side. 



— Caroline L. Sumner. 



Traveling Companions 

By May Belle Brooks 



J 



UST what shall I take along?" is 
the query that everybody who can 
afford a vacation is asking. 

" Plenty of safety pins and a fly 
swatter!" somebody jocularly suggests, 
and those of us who have suffered from 
an invasion of the pests in summer camp 
or open farm house, or when trying to 
be comfortable in a hammock while just 
one fly buzzed around, will ratify the 
second item, even though a supply of 
hangers and efficient mending facilities 
render the former less important. 

However, those safety pins will come 
in mighty handy. Attached to a strip 
of ribbon they will give a neat arrange- 
ment for hanging the clothes in the 
sleeper. A large one, fastened to the 
inside of purse or bag is an accessible 
place to hang one's keys. No matter 
how crowded it is with other things 
you'll know just where to put your fingers 
on your key. 

Take crepe de chine, cotton crepe or 
knit underwear and only one change 
will be necessary, since it may be so 
easily washed out and dried overnight 
and needs no ironing. If you are to take 
a sleeper, a black batiste nightgown will 
be an inconspicuous choice and a dark- 
colored kimona will be in better taste, 
also. Some fastidious women always 
carry a neat black boudoir cap to wear 
on the train during the day, as this keeps 
the hair from disarray and excludes the 
dust. 

A pair of dark goggles will do much to 
prevent eye-strain and consequent head- 
ache, and will protect the eyes from 
cinders. One ingenuous woman, whose 
slogan is comfort, has made a brown 
linen cushion-cover with stout handles 
and a pocket and snaps sewed along the 
opening. Into this she stuffs hosiery, 
soft underwear and such crushable cloth- 
ing, before consigning it to the suit case, 



and when a pillow is wanted for the nap 
on the train, there it is, all clean and cozy 
and taking up scarcely any room at all. 
A newspaper spread over the seat proves 
a sanitary measure and saves carrying a 
towel for the purpose. And if her ride 
is to be lengthy, she slips off her street 
shoes and dons a pair of soft house slip- 
pers. It's such a restful practice. Also, 
being subject to neuralgia, she sees that 
a baby's hot water bottle is always in her 
bag, together with one of those tiny 
stoves that burn solidified alcohol, 
upon which to heat the water. This 
would be a fine idea for the mother travel- 
ing with a young child. 

For brushing the hat or coat, a small 
new nail brush may be packed with the 
other toilet articles, and a Pullman apron 
will hold them in secure readiness. This 
is just an oblong piece of washable ma- 
terial covered with pockets and finished 
with a belt. One or two of the pockets 
might be formed of a discarded pair of 
dress shields, or lined with waterproof 
cloth, to hold damp articles. A dis- 
carded hot water bag, cut envelope shape, 
makes an excellent waterproof case for 
washcloths or rubbers. 

Small squares of mosquito net, or 
pieces of an old lace curtain, make excel- 
lent wash cloths, as they dry almost in- 
stantly, or may be thrown away with no 
twinge of conscience. They are rough 
enough for any cleansing purpose, and 
take up less room than the usual kind. 
Better yet is the paper towel. A small 
tube of shaving cream or a little book of 
soap leaves is more convenient than the 
cake of soap, but if you do favor the 
latter, a tiny piece in a doll's soap case 
will answer every purpose. 

There is a rubber tooth brush and nail 
brush that is best for traveling, but in 
case you still cling to the old order, a 
small shaker of powdered borax should 



108 



TRAVELING COMPANIONS 



109 



be taken along to sprinkle over any wet 
articles. It keeps them sweet. 

"Never carry a valuable watch on the 
train," advised my traveling friend. "I 
always pack a cheap Ingersoll in my bag. 
It keeps good time and I don't have to 
worry about its safety. If obliged to 
carry jewelry I put it in a chamois bag 
about my neck, and to prevent the pieces 
scratching each other, I have tacked the 
bag here and there to form little pockets 
for each jewel. At night I tie my valua- 
bles around my ankle so they will not 
disturb my sleep. A hard lump around 
the neck, that persists in getting under 
the side or back, is not conducive to 
slumber. 

"To carry my extra money, I make 
a bag the size and shape of a bill and tie 
it around my neck, pinning it to the under 
side of my waist, where it is accessible, 
yet safe. Another good place for valua- 
bles is in a little pocket sewed to the top 
of the stocking and fastened with strong 
snaps or hooks and eyes. 

"How to keep my wraps presentable 
on a long journey was always a problem 
to me until I started my plan of including 
a large paper bag and a thick newspaper 
in my luggage. The latter I roll tightly 
•and wrap a cord about the middle by 
which to hang it. This makes a hanger 
for my coat and my hat is placed in the 
paper bag and pinned to the coat. 

"If you've ever snagged your dress at 
an inopportune moment, you'll appre- 
ciate the package of court plaster I 
always carry in my pocket book. It 
mends a tear in a twinkling. Another 
thing that may not seem a necessity until 



you've tried it, is a little handy box that 
fits snugly into my traveling bag. It 
contains a tube of paste, which is mighty 
handy to eke out the mucilage on a poor 
postage stamp or envelope, or to do up a 
parcel to carry or to mail; a piece of 
twine, an indelible pencil, a few shipping 
tags, stamps, a roll of adhesive plaster 
and of antiseptic gauze, tiny bottle of 
iodine, a needleful of white thread and 
one of black, a detachable wooden handle 
for carrying heavy parcels; and I'm 
equipped for almost any emergency. 
There is also an elastic band with hook 
and eye at the ends to clasp beneath the 
hips so that I can pull up my dress under 
a raincoat, leaving the hands free for 
luggage. 

"About my neck I hang a metal iden- 
tification tag with my name punched 
thereon. It's the safest way. 

"Do you know," concluded this fore- 
sighted woman, " I can go anywhere on a 
few minutes' notice. The secret lies in 
an emergency drawer for traveling. 
There I keep an outfit always in readi- 
ness and never drawn upon for other 
purposes. It contains one complete 
change of underwear, two waists, a 
tailored one and a dressy one, six hand- 
kerchiefs, a motor veil, a pair of white 
washable gloves, a lightweight serge 
coat that may be worn over my suit, if 
necessary, and a satin brim that I can 
attach to my severe little traveling hat 
and lo, I have a dress hat suitable for 
any occasion. I don't have to waste 
time standing around wondering what to 
pack, for I've thought it all out, once and 
for all." 



A Theory 



What thought took form in this white rose? 

The answer to your question goes 

To deeps whence came the star, the sod; 

Perhaps it is a word of God, 

Spelled in a way men understand, 

A dream come true within the hand. 



The mystic sight of seers may go 

Behind the petals' clustered snow; 

To me there is a meaning plain, 

And other searching is in vain: 

This rose was wrought by Spring's shy art, 

For you to wear upon your heart! 

— Arthur Wallace Peach. 



110 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.50 perYear, Single Copies 15c 
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 

LEST WE FORGET 

WE would keep constantly before our 
readers and patrons the fact that 
American Cookery is the leading pub- 
lication in America that deals almost 
exclusively with food and cookery. 
American Cookery is a culinary pub- 
lication per se. It appeals directly to 
housekeepers and homemakers, as well as 
to teachers and students of domestic 
science, everywhere. From all these 
sources, time and again, the most hearty 
approval has been received. In some 
schools the current issues of this magazine 
have been used as a text book. 

Now we would that American Cook- 
ery might find its way into countless 
homes, where it is unknown, at present, 
and where, we are confident, full appre- 
ciation of its timely and helpful influence 
would be emphatic and certain. 

For obvious reasons the circulation of 
American Cookery is dependent largely 
upon its own distinctive merits and the 
thoughtful recommendations of its stead- 
fast readers and friends. The time is 
now fit and opportune to enlarge our list 



of subscribers. To accomplish this our 
incentive is not wanting; any voluntary * 
consideration of our needs on the part 
of our readers, and every phase of kindly 
co-operation in our behalf, will be most 
gratefully received. 

PEACE AND PRICES 

THE war is over, but the war-prices 
of foodstuffs and commodities have 
not declined. In some cases they have 
been advanced. The so-called laborer 
combines and strikes for higher pay. 
The government has encouraged him in 
his demands and he succeeds. Imme- 
diately the cost of foods and products 
in which labor is involved goes up; the 
cycle is completed and the operation 
must be repeated. What will be the 
outcome, the end of all this? It seems 
plain to us we are not beginning aright. 
The cost of every article of food and 
merchandise is abnormal. There can be 
no stability or wide-spread prosperity 
in business until we face the other way 
and the price of labor, foodstuffs and 
manufactured goods are all gradually 
reduced to a normal basis. Profiteering 
of every sort has become odious. The 
dealer who attempts to raise the price 
of anything, at the present time, should ■ 
be boycotted at once. And along with 
other things the price of labor must be 
reduced. W 7 ho is worthy, or has earned 
exemption from the general rule? Can 
organized labor claim to do the work of 
the world, while the rest of mankind live 
as they may and pay the bills through 
taxation? It is very plain that under 
existing prices both of labor and mater- 
ials many and varied kinds of industries 
cannot be conducted save at great loss. 
The publishing business, for instance, is 
only one of them. A first condition of 
lasting prosperity is that everybody, not 
a few, be busily engaged at a fair and 
honest wage. Is the present condition 
of affairs in these United States credi- 
table to a nation that claims to be free 
and democratic in its government? But 
let us be optimistic and hope that with 



EDITORIALS 



111 



returning peace and abundant new crops, 
better times are coming. May peace 
and plenty be forerunners of prosperity 
and contentment! 

BEWARE THE HOUSEWIFE 

"hpHERE," said a housewife proudly, 
JL looking at sixteen glasses of a 
home-made table-sweet, "they cost six 
and a half cents a glass, and they're 
selling in some shops at three dollars a 
dozen." In such justifiable boasts as 
this lies the doom of the food-profiteer. 
Man-made laws have often failed to 
reach him, have sometimes reached, 
instead, his honest competitor, and man- 
and-woman-made laws may be no more 
effective, but the American housewife, 
once thoroughly aroused, will bring about 
what the most cumbrously elaborate 
penal legislation, in the premises, has 
failed to accomplish. 

Food-profiteers seem to forget that the 
things which they do wholesale in huge 
factories were once mere household arts, 
practiced in every domestic kitchen. 
Not one of these is an art lost beyond 
recovery, and labor-saving machinery and 
processes adapted to domestic use have, 
within recent years, gone far to close the 
gap between the cost of production in 
factories and in the home. If the profiteer 
will not be good, the American house- 
wife will snap her fingers at him, and 
return to the arts of her grandmother. 
More than this, housekeepers, under the 
pressure of recent conditions, have learned 
the trick of co-operation. Not every 
village home need maintain its lye-vat, 
its smokehouse, its preserving kitchen. 
Fish, flesh, fowl, fruits, vegetables, syrups, 
all can be made at home, and without 
the killing labor that exhausted the 
housewife of two generations ago. Soap, 
candles, and half a dozen other household 
necessaries and conveniences are within 
the scope of the domestic arts. Already 
cheap American dyes are freely used in 
the homes, urban and rural, and in 
hundreds of thousands of American 
kitchens faded recipes in the handwriting 



of an earlier generation have been type- 
written by brisk modern women. 

At every economic crisis, after war or 
financial panic accompanied with indus- 
trial depression, the women of America 
have nobly come to the rescue. What 
they did during and after the revolution- 
ary war and the war of secession is a 
matter of history. When the world-war 
came on, American women of the com- 
fortable classes had long been accus- 
tomed to the convenient luxury of 
factory-made foods, while the poor of 
great cities had accepted the conditions 
imposed by tenement-house life, and 
neglected the household arts with their 
luckier sisters. Thousands of the latter, 
spurred to patriotic endeavor by the 
exigencies of the world-war, turned to 
these almost forgotten arts, practised 
them with intelligence, added to their 
labors voluntarv self-denials, and cheer- 
fully taught all these things to such of the 
poor as were willing to learn. Whatever 
luxury and easy money may have done 
for the men of America, it had not 
enervated all of the women. 

Now, as ever, the economic fate of the 
country lies in the hands of the American 
housewife. Fortunately many great cap- 
tains of industry realize that she must 
be considered, renounce the privilege of 
profiteering at her expense. Meanwhile, 
the unrepentant profiteer, whether em- 
ployer or wage-earner, should remember 
that the American mother, who would 
cheerfully sacrifice her husband for the 
good of her children, will not be tender of 
mere outsiders whom she suspects of 
taking bread from the mouths of her 
little ones. Truly, in this matter "the 
female of the species is more deadly than 
the male." — The Boston Herald. 

CLEAN OUT THE OLD: LET IN 
THE NEW 

CLEANING UP" is a necessary, 
though often an unpleasant pro- 
cess. After it is over we rejoice in its 
benefits, and wonder why we made such a 
fuss over the incident discomforts o* 



112 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ridding our premises of dirt and rubbish. 
But cleaning up should not be confined to 
our external surroundings. We need to 
clean house, mentally, occasionally, and 
were it done oftener we should all be 
saner and happier. 

Think a moment. Isn't your mind 
cluttered up with mental rubbish, sense- 
less prejudices, petty spites, ancient 
grudges, and bits of hateful gossip which 
you should have "dumped" long ago? 
May not your mental processes be clogged 
and your mental alertness be dulled, 
because you cling to outworn theories, 
superstitions, and creeds, and will not 
discard baneful ideas and senseless hate? 
Do you harbor ill feelings against your 
neighbors, and may you not, by your 
accumulation of meannesses and un- 
worthy efforts to "get even," make it 
impossible for new ideas or thoughts to 
find room in your mind? 

If you feel that you love nobody and 
nobody loves you; if you imagine that 
you are not getting a square deal, and 
that luck is against you, you need a 
mental clean-up. Let the sunshine and 
fresh air into your dusty, cluttered brain, 
throw out the rubbish and make room for 
new thoughts, new points of view, new 
ideas. They will come trooping if there 
is room to take them in. The only way 
to acquire fresh mental furniture and 
furnishings is to clean out junk. Why 
let it cumber you longer? — a. j. s. 

THE FINE ART OF DOING 
WITHOUT 

GOING without the good things of 
life is considered a hardship. Too 
little thought is given to the blessings. 
Everybody struggles to acquire material 
advantages, thinking that they spell 
happiness, but happiness not infrequently 
lies in practicing the fine art of doing 
without. 

Having everything you want in the 
world conduces to arrogance, selfishness, 
snobbishness and boorishness. Doing 
with little, when necessary, and doing it 
with dignity and a cheerful spirit, does 



much to develop nobility of character 
and moral fibre. Often it is' all that is 
needed to transform a commonplace, 
sordid soul into one of sweetness and 
light. 

Few people voluntarily attempt to see 
with how little they can get along, but 
when necessity demands, or, when, in 
order to attain a greater good, it seems 
desirable, it is surprising to note how 
little one needs, and how the moral 
calibre is strengthened and developed by 
self-denial. Self-denial, practiced merely 
from compulsion and with rebellion of 
heart is detrimental. Undertaken in the 
light of an adventure, and with cheer- 
fulness, it will yield large returns. Once 
learn to do with little, and not feel abused, 
and you have laid the foundation for 
personal freedom and happiness. Not 
to be dependent upon material cir- 
cumstances is to be independent of the 
caprices of Fate, and rich, although poor. 
Therefore, when circumstances cause 
you to practice economy and to do with- 
out "necessities," suppose you see how 
much fun you can extract from the situa- 
tion, and how well you can manage. 

a. j. s. 



The Poet: "Have you read that poem 
on the League of Nations I left the other 
day?" 

The Editor: "I have just finished 
reading it. By the way, what's your 
opinion regarding the League of Nations ?" 
— Life . 



There Are No Bounds 

" When I awake I am still with Thee" 
Still, still with Thee, when roll earth's deepening 
shadows 
Into the blackness of the midnight hour; 
Full well I know no 'whelming deeps of darkness 
Can hide from me Thy presence and Thy 
power. 

Still, still with Thee, though now my days 
declining 
Have passed the Psalmist's bound of mortal 
span; 
In Faith's clear gaze there are no bounds con- 
fining 
The life immortal shared with Thee by man. 
— Charles A. Humphreys. 




A CENTERPIECE OF FRUIT 



Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour 

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour. 



Beefsteak-and-Kidney Pie 

The amount of filling depends on the 
size of the pie dish, or, if individual pies 
are made, on their number. For an 
ordinary pie use one pound of round 
steak and four or five lamb kidneys. 
Cut the steak into pieces about an inch 
and a half long and wide. Cut the kid- 
neys through the center and remove all 
the white portion, and also the center. 
Throw the trimmings away and put the 
other pieces into cold, slightly salted 
water. Allow this to come to the boil 
very slowly. As soon as the boiling point 
is reached, drain off the water, again add 
cold, salted water and bring once more 
to the boil. Drain, rinse well and add the 
kidneys to the steak. 

In the meantime, roll the pieces of steak 
in flour and brown nicely in a sauce pan. 
Cover with water; add salt, pepper, a 
tiny pinch of sweet majoram, summer 
savory and a few grains of nutmeg. 
Simmer until the meat is tender. Add 
any seasoning needed, at the last, and 



also a little softened gelatine. If pre- 
ferred, thicken the gravy with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, creamed with one and 
a half tablespoonfuls of flour. Pour the 
meat and kidneys into the pie dish with 
gravy enough to cover, and then add the 
pastry top. Some add potatoes and 
slices of hard-cooked eggs. These pies 
are excellent, either cold or hot, and are 
fine for picnics, home luncheons, or 
Sunday dinners. 

Pastry for Meat Pies 

Cream together one and a half table- 
spoonfuls of lard and the same amount 
of butter. Cut this into one cup of flour, 
into which has been mixed one-half a 
teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful 
of baking powder. Use just enough cold 
milk to cause the particles to stick to- 
gether when pressed. Let the pastry 
extend to the edge of the wide flat brim, 
which is the peculiar feature of an Eng- 
lish meat pie dish. This dish is placed 
on the table and the pie is served from 
that. 



113 



114 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Scalloped Egg Plant 

Cut the egg plant into slices about one- 
half inch thick, pare and put in strong 
salt and water under a weight for half 
an hour. Rinse and wipe dry. Butter 
a baking dish and arrange pieces of egg 
plant on the bottom, sprinkle well with 
grated cheese, salt and pepper. Repeat 
until the dish is full, ending with the 
cheese. Have ready a rather thin tomato 
sauce, nicely seasoned and pour this over 
the layers as they are being arranged. 
Bake in a moderate oven about three- 
quarters of an hour, or until the egg 
plant is tender. 



all pieces nicely with salad dressing. It 
is a good idea to add the celery and 
cucumbers the last thing before serving 
in order to keep them crisp. 

Dressing for Potato Salad 

Mix together one teaspoonful of salt, 
one teaspoonful of mustard; beat four 
eggs till thick, add the salt and mustard 
and two cups of vinegar. Cook over 
water until it becomes a smooth custard. 
When cold add one cup of whipped cream. 

Stewed Green Corn with Peppers 

Use either canned corn or green corn 
cut from the cob. Drop three table- 




BEEFSTEAK-AND-KIDNEY PIE 



Potato Salad, Summer Style 

:•; Put into a pot twelve medium-sized 
potatoes and three fresh eggs. Cover 
with water and cook till the potatoes are 
just tender. Drain and allow to cool. 
When ready to make the salad, remove 
the skins from the potatoes and free the 
eggs from shells. Dice the potatoes and 
pare two fairly large cucumbers and slice 
thin; blanch one cup of almonds and 
cut into thirds. Have the white heart 
stalks of celery in ice water for half an 
hour, wipe dry and cut into thin strips 
and then into short lengths. Cut the 
eggs into fourths, lengthwise, and then 
into slices. Mix all together and coat 



spoonfuls of butter into a sauce pan. 
Add one heaping tablespoonful of sweet 
green pepper, minced fine and two paper- 
thin slices of garlic. Allow them to 
simmer for ten minutes, or until very 
soft. Add the corn and a fourth of a 
teaspoonful of salt; stir well and cook for 
ten minutes. Add one-fourth a cup of 
cream. If too dry, add more cream. 
Plain milk and a teaspoonful of butter 
may be used instead of the cream. 

Sauteed Vegetable Marrow 

Select young marrows and cut into 
half-inch slices. Pare, season with salt, 
pepper and dredge with flour. Have 
ready plenty of hot fat, either fresh bacon 



SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES 



115 



fat, dripping or a mixture of butter and 
substitute fat. Have the mixture hot to 
start, and as soon as a slight crust is 
formed on one side turn the slices. 
Reduce the temperature and finish frying. 
When tender drain on soft brown paper 
and serve without sauce. The slices 
should be hot, crisp and dry. 

Baked Apple Dumplings 

Select tart apples that do not lose their 
shape at once in cooking. Pare evenly 
and remove the cores without cutting the 
apples in pieces. Put the apples into 
water enough to float them; add a cup of 
sugar and cook until almost done. Re- 
move with a skimmer and cook the syrup 
down till thick. Place each apple on a 
square of pastry. Fill the cores with 
butter, lemon juice and sugar, and drop 
the syrup over the apples. Moisten the 
tips of the pastry squares and press to- 
gether over the top of the apple. Put on 
a baking tin and bake a nice brown. 
Serve with cream just sour enough to 
have become thick, into which has been 
stirred powdered sugar; dust nutmeg 
over the top. 

Pershing Salad 

Use only firm, thoroughly ripened fruit. 

Select large, well-shaped red tomatoes 
and firm, ripe, yellow peaches. Remove 
the skin of the tomato without scalding 
and take out the hard stem portion with 
a neat, shallow cut. Hold the tomato, 
stem end up, in the palm of the left hand, 
and with a sharp knife make two cuts at 
right angles through the center of the 




BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS 

tomato and about three-fourths of the 
way through. Have ready crisp, white 
heart-leaves of lettuce and place the 
tomato on these so that the sections 
separate slightly like the petals of a 
flower. If necessary deepen the cuts a 
little to secure this effect. 

Pare the peach and, unless very large, 
cut into quarters. Fill the spaces be- 
tween the tomato petals with salad 
dressing, but be careful that none of it 
gets on the petal?. Place the peach 
petals on the part covered by the dressing, 
turning the seed side underneath, drop 
a ring of salad dressing around the base 
of the tomato and cover this with thin 
slices of peaches placed overlapping. 
Pipe a star of whipped cream at the 
center top and a thin line down each 
section of peach. Salad dressing may be 
substituted for the cream. Arrange in 
individual servings. 

Dressing for Pershing Salad 

Mix together one tablespoonful of salt, 
one tablespoonful of sugar, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of mustard, one-eighth a 




PERSHING SALAD 



116 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



teaspoonful of curry powder. Beat one 
whole egg, or two yolks very light; add 
the juice of one large lemon. Beat five 
minutes and then add the dry ingredients. 
Beat for three minutes. Add three- 
fourths a cup of Carnation milk. 
Cook in a double boiler until quite thick, 
stirring constantly. This dressing can 
be cooked much longer than if made with 
ordinary milk and will have more body, 
but care must be taken not to over-cook 
and consequently curdle. 

Paring a Tomato Without Scalding 

Use a small sharp vegetable knife. 
Press the back of the blade along the 
tomato, moving from the top to the stem 



turning often, until each apple is tender. 
Set them carefully into a baking pan. 
Fill the centers with one-third a cup, 
each, of raisins and nuts, chopped fine, 
dredge on a little granulated sugar and 
let bake in a moderate oven till glazed; 
serve with the syrup poured around them. 

Pancakes 

Beat up the yolks of two eggs, one 
tablespoonful, scant, of salad oil, three 
tablespoonfuls of water, one and a half 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and one-fourth 
teaspoonful of salt. Beat this paste 
about ten minutes. If the batter is too 
thick, add a little water until its con- 
sistency is satisfactory. When right it 




APPLES STUFFED WITH NUTS AND RAISINS 



end or round and round. The motion is 
something like scraping, but not so vig- 
orous, as the skin is not broken. Care 
must be taken that the strokes touch or 
overlap a trifle. When all the surface 
has been gone over in this way, slip the 
point of the knife under the skin and 
pull gently, removing it easily. This 
method is helpful when tomatoes have 
been chilled and must be used at once. 

Apples Stuffed with Nuts 
and Raisins 

Core about five apples, making sure to 
take out every bit of the core. Remove 
the paring from about one-half of the 
apple. For six put half a cup of sugar 
and half a cup of water into a sauce pan; 
into this set the apples and let cook, 



should cover the spoon when lifted out of 
it with a coating about the eighth of an 
inch thick. Beat the whites of the two 
eggs to a stiff froth; beat this into your 
batter at time of using. If preferred, 
the batter may be baked in small squares, 
or in other shapes. 

Spiced Pepper 

(Wyvern) 
Take one-fourth an ounce, each, of 
dried thyme leaves, marjoram leaves, 
and summer or winter savory leaves, one- 
half ounce nutmeg, grated, one-half 
ounce cloves, one-fourth ounce, each, 
whole black or Nepaul pepper, and pound 
in a mortar, and when ground to powder 
pass it through a fine sieve and cork close 
in a bottle. 



SEASONABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES 



117 



Spiced Salt 

Mix one ounce of the above with four 
of the salt and store in a close bottle. 
The spiced pepper is the more valuable 
because the salt draws moisture. 

Cheese Ramequins 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
saucepan with one cup of boiling water, 
half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and black 
pepper, when it boils add four teaspoon- 
fuls of potato flour. Stir over the fire 
four minutes, and then mix with it half 
a cup of grated cheese and beat in two 
eggs, one after the other. Set the paste 
in pieces on a baking pan, a spoonful in 
a place; flatten them slightly, brush 
them over with beaten egg, bake in an 
oven hotter at the bottom than at the 
top; serve on a napkin, very hot. A 
green salad and bread should accompany 
the ramequins. 

Eggs, Swiss Style 

Choose a shallow pie-dish, and butter 
it liberally. Pour over the bottom of the 
dish a layer of cream a quarter of an inch 
deep, over that shake a layer of grated 
cheese a quarter of an inch deep. When 
the cheese and cream have united take 
out the dish and without crowding, 
break into the cream as many eggs as 
will well cover it. Take great pains that 
no yolk of egg be broken. Shake over 
them a little black pepper and salt, and 
gently pour a little more cream over the 
surface. Finish with a little grated 
cheese. Return to the oven to set the 
eggs. Do not let them get too hard. 



For a change set a layer of previously 
boiled macaroni, spaghetti or noodles, in 
the dish, first of all, then finish in the 
same manner as above. 

Eggs au Gratin 

Butter a shallow baking dish, first 
rubbing it over with the cut side of an 
onion; line it with macaroni, cooked in 
milk, pour over it a cup of white sauce 
in which you have melted some grated 
cheese. Over this set a layer of hard- 
cooked eggs, neatly sliced and an anchovy, 
fine-chopped, over the eggs. Sprinkle on 
pepper and salt, or a little of the spiced 
salt, given on another page. Mix three- 
fourths a cup, each, of sifted bread or 
cracker crumbs, and grated cheese with 
one-fourth a cup of melted butter and 
bake until the top of the dish is a golden 
brown. 

Half-Jellied Fruit 

Cook half a cup of tapioca in a pint of 
boiling water until transparent; add such 
fruit as is convenient, a few strawberries, 
one banana, sliced thin, three or four 
slices of pineapple, cut in small pieces, 
an orange, in small bits, with its juice, a 
little pineapple juice may replace part of 
the water, and a tablespoonful or more 
of fruit-jelly may be added; add the 
juice of half or a whole lemon, and a little 
sugar, if needed, and set aside in a cool 
place; serve in saucers, a spoonful in each, 
with whipped cream above. 

Stuffed Eggs for Buffet Supper 
or Picnics 

Put six eggs over the fire in a hot dish 
with boiling water to cover the eggs. 




F.GCS SWISS STYLE 



118 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Let them stand, covered, where the water 
will not boil, but keep hot for half an 
hour, then draw the dish forward and 
let the eggs actually boil one minute to 
harden them on the outside. When cold, 
remove the shells, and, with a knife 
rubbed in butter, divide each egg in half, 
slicing a little piece off the rounded ends, 
that each half may set upright on a dish. 
Pick out the yolks, pound them with 
butter in a mortar, add fine-minced 
olives, capers, anchovies, grated ham, 
chicken, tongue or a chicken liver; pound 
till very smooth, season with spiced 
pepper. Spread each piece of white 
(using a silver knife) with the force- 



ounces of fresh butter and four of fine 
white crumbs; pound all together in a 
mortar, pass through a wire sieve and 
season the puree with salt and pepper to 
taste (one teaspoonful and a half about). 
Moisten it with a cup of sauce made 
of one cup, each, cream and chicken 
broth and two eggs, well beaten. Line 
a pie-tin or charlotte mold with a thin 
layer of pastry; add a layer of the force- 
meat, then a layer of salmon an inch 
thick, continuing till the mold is filled. 
Over the top set a layer of flaky or puff 
paste, brush it over with white of egg, and 
bake the pie slowly. When cooked and 
nearly cold, pour in through a hole made 




COMPANY CAKE, FOR RECIPE IN DETAIL SEE PAGES 105 AND 106 



meat, giving the piece of white a convex 
shape. Fry a little square of bread for 
each one, as for canapes, and set an egg 
on each. Set them on a shallow au 
gratin dish, slightly buttered, pour a little 
melted butter over each egg and bake 
five minutes. Sprinkle rather large bread 
crumbs, browned in the oven over the 
whole; serve for buffet supper; for 
picnics serve cold. 

Salmon Pie 

(To Be Eaten Cold) 
Cut one pound of choice salmon in 
small filets, pour over them some luke- 
warm water and let simmer about four 
minutes, then skim from the water. 
Make three-fourths of a pound of force- 
meat, use half a pound of halibut, four 



in the top, a cup of broth made from 
the bones and trimmings of the fish, 
reduced quite thick by long cooking, and 
a cup of rich chicken broth, seasoned 
with shallot, carrot and thyme and re- 
duced by boiling. This is to be eaten cold. 

Dainty White Cake 

Two-thirds a cup of butter, one and 
a half cups of sugar, two cups of flour, 
two-thirds a cup of milk, two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of 
lemon and the whites of three eggs, 
beaten stiff. 

Peach Tarts 

Make a crust of one cup of ice-cold 
flour, one-third a cup of butter and some 
substitute fat, creamed together (only 



SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIP1 -.> 



119 



one-third a cup of the combination), one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, and just enough 
ice water to make the mixture hold 
together. Line small tart tins, fill with 
dry rice and bake carefully. Pare and 
halve ripe peaches and put in just enough 
water to cook. As soon as the part that 
was next the seed begins to look soft, 
remove the fruit. Add as much sugar 
as is needed to sweeten the tarts and also 
cornstarch, moistened in cold water, 
allowing one tablespoonful to a cup of 
juice; boil five minutes; add the juice 
of half a lemon and allow to cool. Re- 
move the rice from the cases, fill with 
fruit and cover with meringue; brown 
in the oven. 

Tea Dainties 

Two cups of corn flakes, one-half cup 
of sugar, one cup of cocoanut, either 
fresh or preserved, one egg, well beaten 
and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Drop in 
teaspoonfuls, allowing them to remain 
uneven. Bake in a moderate oven to a 
delicate brown. These may be varied 
indefinitely by substituting nuts and 
various dry cereals for that given. 

One-Two-Three Dessert 

Make any good sponge cake and bake 
in a sheet about an inch thick. Cut into 
rounds or oblongs. Make a lemon jelly 




PEACH TARTS 

fruit dessert, using fresh pineapple and 
cherries if possible, as well as other fruit. 
Prepare strips of stiff, glazed paper, wide 
enough to reach an inch above the cake 
rounds. Pin this around the cake and 
fasten. As soon as the jelly begins to 
stiffen drop it on to the cake as high as 
the paper collar. Set in the ice box till 
serving time. \\ hen needed, remove the 
paper and pile sweetened whipped cream 
on top of each round. 

Hot Water Sponge Cake 

Beat the yolks of four eggs thoroughly; 
add one and a half cups of powdered sugar 
and cream well. Add the whites, well 
beaten, one and a half cups of flour, in 
which has been stirred two teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder and a pinch of salt. 
Lastly, add four tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water; bake in slow oven. 

Orange Sherbet 

The quantities given make one quart. 




OXE-TWO-THREE DESSERT 



120 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cook together for ten minutes one-half 
cup of water and one cup of sugar. 
Soften one tablespoonful of gelatine in 
two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Pour 
three-fourths of the hot syrup on to the 
gelatine. Add the juice of one orange 
and one lemon. Pack the freezer with 
ice and salt. Pour into the freezer one- 
half cup of "top milk" and let it get cold. 
After ten minutes add the fruit mixture 
and put in the dasher. Turn till mushy 
then add the whites of two eggs, beaten 
stiff, and the rest of the syrup which has 
been cooked to a thread; finish freezing. 

Hot Weather Drinks 

Hot weather demands the "something 
different" in drinks, and the wise house 
mother will keep something of the kind 
in the ice box constantly. The most 
satisfying drinks are really simple, as 
far as ingredients are concerned. It is 
the combination of flavors that stamps 
the maker as an artist or the reverse. 
Lemonade should be tart, neither too 
sweet nor too sharp. All drinks should 
be ice cold, and nothing is more attractive 
than the addition of ice pounded to a 
snow in a stout canvas bag. 

Mint Punch 

Wash a quart of spearmint leaves well, 



dry by shaking and then mash till soft. 
Cover with boiling water and let stand 
ten minutes. Strain and set, covered, in 
the ice box. At serving time add one 
cup of grape juice and one of red rasp- 
berry juice. Sweeten to taste and add 
as much lemon juice as is needed to bring 
out and combine the flavors. Stick a 
tiny sprig of mint in each glass. 

Tea Punch 

Make a strong tea, but let it steep only 
four minutes, otherwise it will become 
cloudy. Add one-third as much lemon 
juice as tea, with sugar to sweeten. Keep 
very cold and when serving add one 
bottle of ginger ale. 

Lemonade 

The best lemonade is made from pre- 
pared syrup, in the proportion of one cup, 
each, of water and sugar boiled for ten 
minutes. A thin shaving of the yellow 
rind is an improvement. When the 
syrup is cold, add the juice of four lemons 
and allow two tablespoonfuls of the 
mixture to one glass of water. 

Iced Coffee with Orange 

To one quart of strong cold coffee^add 
one cup of sweetened orange juice. Drop 
a tablespoonful of powdered ice in each 
glass and top with whipped cream. 




HOT WEATHER DRINKS 



Menus for One Week in August 



Breakfast 

Cantaloupe 

Cream Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Cold Beefsteak and Kidney Pie 

New Potatoes and Peas, Creamed Together 

Heart Leaves of Lettuce, French Dressing 

Iced Coffee, Whipped Cream 

Sliced Peaches 



Supper 

Potato Salad, Summer Style 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Cocoanut Dainties 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat and Stewed Prunes 



Coffee 



Poached Eggs 
Buttered Toast 



Cocoa 



Luncheon 



Fish Chowder 

Cucumber-and-Tomato Salad 

Toasted, Buttered Crackers 

Tea 



Dinner 

Cream of Tomato Soup 

Irish Stew 

Brussels Sprouts 

Baked New Potatoes 



Breakfast 

Puffed Rice, Top Milk 

Shirred Eggs 

Blueberry Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Parsnip Soup 

Brown Bread and Butter 

Jelly Roll, Whipped Cream 

Tea 

Dinner 

Baked Veal Cutlet, Brown Pan Gravy 

Buttered Beets 

Browned Potatoes 

Tomato Salad 

Baked Apple Dumplings 



Breakfast 

Watermelon 
Oat Meal Bread and Butter 

Bacon and Eggs 
Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold Corned Beef 
Pickled Beets «' 
Small New Potatoes, Creamed 
Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Carrot Soup 

Roast Chicken with Dressing 

Asparagus, Mousselaine Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Lettuce Salad 
Peach Shortcake 



Breakfast 

Ripe Pears 

Fish Balls 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Green^Pea^Soup, Canadian 

Cucumber-and-Lettuce Salad 

Hot Rolls 

Tea 



Dinner 

Roast Lamb, Mint'Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Green Peas 

Lemon Pie 



Breakfast 

Ripe Red Plums 

Corned Beef Hash 

Parker House Rolls 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Vegetable Soup 

Rye Meal Muffins 

Apple Pie 

Tea 

Dinner 

Clear Tomato Soup 

Meat Loaf 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Browned New Potatoes 

Cherry Pie 



Breakfast 

Sliced Peaches 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 

Creamed Eggs 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Chicken Souffle 
Asparagus Salad 
Fresh Gingerbread 
Tea 

121 



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Dinner 

Macaroni Pudding, 

Tomato Sauce 
Buttered Wax Beans 
Mixed Vegetable Salad 
Blackberry Sponge 



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2 



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W 
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Menus for Institutional Cooking 

ONE WEEK IN AUGUST 



Breakfast 

Wheatena, Top Milk 

Graham Rolls 

Blueberries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Mashed Potatoes 

Shelled Beans 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Tapioca Cream 

Coffee 

Supper 

Lettuce-Apple-Celery Salad 
Rye Bread and Butter 
Blackberries 
Cookies Cocoa 



Breakfast 

Hominy Grits, Top Milk 

Breakfast Corncake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Potato Hash 

Egg Plant, Scalloped 

Lettuce Salad 

Apple Pie 

Cheese 

Supper 

Cream of Corn Soup 

Crackers 

Cottage Cheese 

Berries Gingerbread 

Tea 



3 

O 

as 

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O 
> 






Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 
Small Individual Omelets 

Toast 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Shoulder of Veal, Boiled cut and Fried 

Scalloped Potatoes 

New Beets 

Carrots Glace 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans (fresh) 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Cake for 75 

New Apple Sauce 



Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Top Milk 
Scrambled Eggs in Rice, Cups 
Bran Muffins 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Corned Beef 

Cabbage, Beets, Turnips, Potatoes 

Squash Pie Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Baked Corn Pudding, Nantucket Style 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Crabapples 

Sponge Cake with Cream 



W 

d 

> 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Top Milk 

Griddlecakes, Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fresh White Fish Chowder 
> Crackers 
Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes 
Blackberry Shortcake 

Supper 

Fish-and-Potato Hash 

New Pickles 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Honey Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Sliced Beets 

Breakfast Corncake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Mackerel 

Creamed New Potatoes with Parsley 

Summer Squash, Sauted 

Apples Baked with Almonds 

Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Toast with Grated Cheese 

Blueberries, Top Milk 

Sugar Cookies 

Tea 



> 



Breakfast 

Cornmeal Mush, Grated Cheese 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Veal Cutlets en Casserole 
Potatoes, Carrots, 

String Beans 
Chinese Cabbage, 

Russian Dressing 
Graham Bread and Butter 
Baked Custard 
122 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans 
Boston Brown Bread 



Menus for One Week in September 



< 

Q 
Z 

CO 



Breakfast 

Blackberry Juice (sweetened) 

Oatmeal Bread, Butter 

Broiled Ham 

Plain Omelette • 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken Pie (Biscuit Crust) 

Boiled New Potatoes, Stewed Corn 

Pershing Salad 

Cocoanut Layer Cake 

Iced Coffee 

Supper 

Boston Brown Bread 
Cottage Cheese 
Sponge Cake 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Grape Juice 

Cream of Wheat, Top Milk 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

with Honey 
Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Parsnip Soup 

Sauted Vegetable Marrow 

Cucumber Salad 

Iced Tea 

Dinner 

Chops a la Maintenon 

Boiled Potatoes, Browned 

Swiss Chard 

Watermelon 

Coffee 



< 
Q 

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W 



Breakfast 

Gluten Grits with Prunes 

Raised W r affles, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Corn Chowder 

Chocolate Pudding 

Tea 

Dinner 

Rolled Flank Steak 
Scalloped Egg Plant 

Baked Bananas 

Peach Pie (Meringue) 

Iced Coffee 



Breakfast 

Corn Flakes, Top Milk 

Fried Tomatoes 

Buttered Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Curried Mutton with Rice 

Cucumber Salad 

Gooseberry Pie 

Tea 

Dinner 

Halibut Turban, Tomato Sauce 

Browned Baked Potatoes 

Scalloped Salsify 

Lemon Ice 

Sponge Cake 

Coffee 



3 

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Breakfast 


Breakfast 






Stewed Tomatoes 


Sliced Peaches 






Fish Balls 


Puffed Rice, Top Milk 






Buttered Toast 


Buttered Toast 






Coffee Cocoa 


Creamed Eggs 
Coffee Cocoa 






Luncheon 






> 

< 


Creamed Chicken 


Luncheon 


- 


Baked Bananas 


Cream of Tomato Soup 


a 


Q 


jreen Peppers Stuffed with Curried Rice 


Cheese Souffle 


- 


£ 


Oatmeal Bread 


Oatmeal W 7 afers 


CO 

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Tea 


Tea 




Dinner 


Dinner 






Succotash, Southern Style 


Meat Loaf 






Corn Muffins 


Creamed Boiled Onions 






Sliced Tomatoes 


Buttered Lima Beans 






Cake 


Lettuce Salad 






Pineapple Sherbet (Canned Fruit) 


Banana Cake 






Coffee 


Coffee 





— 
> 



< 
< 

CO 



Breakfast 

Berries 

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes 

with Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Baked Eggs with Cheese 

Toasted Crackers 

Lettuce and Prune Salad 

Tea 



Dinner 

Baked Beans 

Mustard Pickles 

Tomato Jelly Salad 

Boston Brown Bread 

Coffee 



123 




Food Notes for August- September 

By Janet M. Hill 



AUGUST and September are two of 
the busiest months of the year. 
At this time, for the sake of 
economy and pleasure, some of the sur- 
plus from the garden and orchard should 
be put away for future use. It is wise 
to put up no more than will be consumed 
in the coming year. In small families 
put up only such quantity of vegetable as 
can be taken care of while getting a meal, 
thus conserving time and fuel. With 
soni • vegetables, as beets or string beans, 
prepare a generous measure for dinner, 
storing the oversupply in a can. Either 
the open kettle or the cold-pack process 
may be used. In both cases, cook until 
a fork pressed into the bean shows the 
proper degree of tenderness has been 
reached. It h no economy to store 
string beans of too large size. Often 
fruit must be put up in larger quantity at 
time of purchase. 

Fruit Juices for Jelly 

As for fruit for jelly, often a large 
quantity must be taken care of at once. 
Heat the fruit in a double boiler, or, by 
taking more care, in an ordinary sauce 
pan, until the juice flows freely; drain 
in a cloth or bag; reheat to the boiling 
point and store in sterilized jars, as in 
all canning where the open kettle is used. 
Water may be poured upon the contents 
of the bag from which the juice has been 
taken, then the whole boiled again, 
drained and used in making really good 
jelly, of scarcely less flavor than that of 
the first extraction. With a supply of 



various fruit juices in the store room, 
combinations, as apple-and raspberry. 
currant-and-raspberry,etc.,ma7 be made, 
using the apple, or less expensive juice, 
in smaller* quantity than the other. 

Chickens 

Chickens are now available, and there 
seems to be absolutely no end to the ways 
in which these may be prepared. Each 
little bit of left-over cooked chicken and 
all broth should be looked after scrupu- 
lously. By making a cup of sauce of 
broth enriched with one or more spoon- 
fuls of cream, then adding bits of chicken 
with a few canned peas or asparagus tips, 
a most pleasing luncheon or breakfast 
dish may be prepared. Butter small 
ramekins and put chicken-mixture in 
each; above break an egg and set into 
the oven long enough to cook the egg. 
A spoonful of sauce or a little grated 
cheese over the top of the egg insures 
more delicate cookery of the egg. 

Salads 

Some form of salad is a pleasing addi- 
tion to hot chicken cooked in any way; 
lettuce, endive, cress or sliced tomatoes 
with French dressing cannot be improved 
upon. Hominy or rice, or a fruit jelly, 
as currant, are other suitable dishes to 
accompany chicken. 

Pickles 

Pickles of various kinds take consider- 
able time at this season. For a plain 
crisp, cucumber pickle, soak the cucum- 



124 



FOOD HINTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 



125 



bers over night in alum water, a scant 
teaspoonful of alum to a quart of vvater; 
rinse in cold water, pack in jars with a 
few whole spices and seal secure. Use 
but few black-pepper seeds, as they tend 
to make bitter pickles. Now also is the 
time to prepare mustard pickles. 

Several recipes in this number are 
adaptations from Wyvern. In "Cul- 
inary Jottings," the sixth edition of 
which was printed in 1891, Wyvern, an 
English officer in Madras, gives as the 
items essential to a menu for a "cosy 
dinner, ' soup, fish, a well-chosen entree, 
one joint only, game, a dressed vegetable, 



one entremet, sweet, an iced pudding, 
cheese with hors d'oeuvres and dessert. 
He ends his discoveries by saying "edu- 
cated people who have traveled and who 
have had opportunities of forming refined 
notions of human nature, in general, and 
of food in particular, ought to be better 
satisfied with a little, really well-con- 
sidered, than with abundance inartistic 
in its arrangement and indifferently 
served." In Wyvern's time, the "back- 
bone and true essentials of cookery were 
eggs, gravy, cream and butter." In our 
modern days, the backbone of cookery 
for a cosy dinner necessarily must be 
supplied in rather scant quantities. 



Reconstructed Grape Jelly 

By Wealtha A. Wilson 



A LITTLE fellow whose entire school 
life numbered less than four 
months startled his mother, one 
day, by straightening up suddenly and 
saying, "Oh! I can remember the time 
when I didn't know so much!" Many 
a housewife can echo the little man's ex- 
ulting cry. Like him, they are trudging 
along, sturdily and happily, on the High- 
way of Knowledge, equipped with that 
enviable possession of childhood, the 
teachable spirit. Without that spirit 
living is merely a vain "going through 
the motions," and the work accomplished 
amounts to the merest imitations and re- 
petitions. That which restored the teach- 
able spirit to American housewives was 
their determination that the Allies should 
not starve as long as America could stint 
herself and send her best to starving 
Europe. That experience was a God- 
send to American women. They are 
just beginning to realize the extent of 
the blessing. 

They are just beginning to realize that 
they have never yet examined their food 
materials enough to know just what can 
be gotten from them, not through penur- 



iousness, but through the artistic instinct 
which strives to put every created thing 
where it can show to its very best. It 
is the opposite of this spirit that is respon- 
sible for the atrocious and wasteful 
dinners cooked "in a jiffy" and paid foi, 
too often, by months of doctor's bills and 
wrecked homes. The reconstructed 
housewife has glimpsed the tenets of the 
truest art and the deepest philosophy. 

Reconstructed grape jelly is not far 
removed from these lofty themes. It 
puts conservation in place of wasteful- 
ness, and perfection in place of goodness, 
that demands an apology for not being 
better. Grape jelly has always been a 
sort of "poor relation" among jellies. It 
has never "made good" entirely. It 
has always had a way of developing 
crystals when jelly was needed in the 
spring time, and it was never quite 
straightforward about turning into jelly. 
Give it a chance and treat it right and 
see what it can do. 

Ripe Grapes or Green Ones 

Any kind of grapes can be used for 
jelly, but each kind will give its own kind 



126 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of jelly. Green, that is, unripe, grapes 
seem more willing to turn into jelly than 
the very ripe ones, according to the old 
theory. Different varieties give jellies 
that vary in color and flavor. This fact 
opens up fascinating hours for the eager 
housewife. The new jelly will compare 
favorably with the finest crab or quince, 
even when made from fruit so ripe it 
falls from the stem. Any woman who 
makes it successfully will find herself 
unable to fill orders should she wish to 
add to her income. 

Making Two Kinds At Once 

Ripe grapes are referred to in the fol- 
lowing directions. Take half the grapes 
in a small grape basket and wash care- 
fully by lifting the bunches up and down 
in cold water. Have ready two granite 
saucepans and drop the pulps with the 
escaping}juice into one pan and the skins 
into the other. In each pan place one 
medium tart or unripe apple, sliced, the 
juice of one-half lemon and half a cup of 
water. Into the pan containing the 
skins, put two level tablespoonfuls of 
ground cinnamon and one of ground 
cloves. Allow the contents of each pan 
to simmer slowly until the pulp has 
softened enough to loosen the seeds and 
the skins in the other pan are thoroughly 
soft. Do not cook enough to release 
more than all the juice, however. Have 
ready two jelly bags and empty the 
pulps and juice into one and the skins 
and juice into the other. Allow to drip 
without squeezing, as otherwise the jelly 
will not be crystal clear. All the juice 
will drip out if time is allowed. 

Only Two Glasses at a Time 

Never attempt making more than two 
glasses at one boiling. Jelly, made in 
small quantities, is much more satis- 
factory in every way and time is saved 






in the end. Measure two and a quarter 
glasses of juice and exactly the same 
quantity of sugar. Stir well and allow 
ten minutes from the time boiling begins. 
Avoid furious boiling. The best way to 
test jelly is to dip a spoon, tip down, into 
the juice. Allow the juice to drip back 
into the pan. If the hot juice coats the 
spoon like molasses, the critical moment 
is near. When the juice forms in a heavy 
drop on the tip of the spoon and breaks 
away sharply the jelly should be removed 
from the fire at once. Practised jelly 
makers spy twin drops formed on the 
edge of the spoon just as the jelly is 
perfectly made. Overcooking takes the jelly 
past the jellying stage, and nothing will 
restore that lost property. 

Last Minute Hints 

While the jelly is cooking take two 
tablespoonfuls of the dark juice and add 
it to the light-colored juice. This gives 
a delicate, crabapple pink tinge. 

As soon as the jellying stage has been 
reached remove the pan from the fire 
and allow all movement to cease. If 
there is a thick scum that needs removing, 
it should be taken off very carefully 
before attempting to fill the glasses. If 
this scum breaks as the jelly goes into 
the glass, it will distribute itself through- 
out the mass and destroy the appearance 
of the jelly. 

The light-colored jelly can be used 
wherever the choicest jelly would be 
served and the dark, spiced jelly is 
especially fine with meat or fowl. 

Jelly, made very late in the autumn 
from over-ripe grapes, should have the 
juice of an extra half-lemon allowed, and 
also about a fourth more of grapes and 
water on account of the added amount of 
softened cellulose that mixes with the 
juice and must be removed, at the last, 
with a consequent loss of more or less juice. 




Pests Made Profitable 

By Ida R. Fargo 



ABBIE ANDREWS had come to 
the end of her vacation, which 
was never long at best. Back in 
town the air still seemed stiffling; it failed 
to refresh one's heat-jaded nerves. But 
Abbie was more resourceful than some, 
perhaps because her tastes in life, as well 
as in food, did not require high seasoning 
she took to riding every week end to the 
trolley's fartherest out-post, now in this 
direction, now in that. 

"What makes you do it, Abbie?" 
complained a girl in the same office. 
"You miss so much. Catch me gadding 
off into the outskirts of Nowhere with 
'Mary' and 'Charlie' at the movies!" 

Abbie laughed, a little lilting laugh 
that always made people wonder what 
was so happy in her heart. 

"Miss so much?" she considered. 
"But I gain more. Didn't you ever 
obey an impulse to picnic in the wilds, 
or tramp 'cross a pasture — bulls being 
absent — or find out where a trolley would 
take you to?" 

"Not me," affirmed the admirer of the 
movies. 

"Then you've never heard the call of 
a wild weed patch," said Abbie Andrews, 
sedately. "It's you who are missing so 
much — you must be a little deaf," 
teasingly. "Why, don't you remember 
that Nature-lecture we girls went to last 
winter? You enthused as much as any 
of us, I remember. And what was it the 
man said — 'Nothing like a wayward 
bit of Mother Earth to grip the human 
heart, nothing like a wild weed patch! 
It is a magnet, swinging us all around into 
line like iron filings. It isn't a run-down 
condition that makes most of us take a 
vacation, it's the call of a wild weed 
patch!' Wasn't that it? — And I've just 
been obeying the call — because I'm 
not deal " with a whimsical lift of 
eyebrows. 



"The colors of that man's wild weed 
patch," quoth Abbie's companion, "is 
what got me; the will-o'-the-wisp colors, 
teasingly tantalizing, bewilderingly in- 
consistent — ■ ripe grasses and dust- bloom 
grapes, yellowy going-to-seed golden 
rod and falling-to-pieces posies — and the 
purple, purple distance for perspective." 

Abbie nodded. "I'm trolleying out 
to a piece of that purple perspective this 
very evening — Nellie Whythacomb's 
place; remember her? She used to be 
Greer and Company's cash girl. Want 
to go along?" 

"Wish I could, but I can't; another 
engagement," regretfully. 

"Then come next time," coaxingly. 

"I believe I will, but where to?" 

Abbie Andrews shook her smooth 
brown head. " Don't know," she said. 
"Wherever the call comes strongest, but 
one thing sure, I'm going to trolley into 
the outskirts so long as the autumn color- 
ing lasts." She considered a moment, 
"And, maybe, after that, I'll be wanting 
to go look at stretches of snow! As my 
Aunt Janie says, 'I dunno but I will.' " 

" Don't — you'll convert me," grimaced 
the movie-interested girl. 

"But tonight it's out to Nellie's — 
and the dearest little supper! You never 
could guess, it's popped popcorn ground 
in the little food-conservation mill, piled 
up in deliciously deep saucers, and eaten 
with fluffy whipped cream. . . . Oh, it's 
one of Nellie's originals — now don't you 
wish you were coming? — ■ but there's my 
car! Goodby, and good luck with the 
'other engagement,' " mischievously. 

So this is how Abbie Andrews happened 
to be spending a certain week-end on a 
certain little suburban farm of a dozen 
acres; and how she happened to be 
standing one sunshiny morning with 
Nellie ruefully sun-eying one corner of 
the garden square. 



127 



128 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Oh," sighed Nellie, "we never/never, 
never can get rid of this horse-radish pest. 
Every spring we plow it up, and every 
summer it grows thicker and thicker, and 
spreads farther and farther. I never 
saw its equal, never! Every tiny bit of 
broken root takes a hold on life and grows, 
and grows, and grows! like Jack's bean- 
stalk, and a harrow drags it from Dan 
to Beersheba. ,, 

"My landlady has been trying to grow 
a root in her back yard garden," said 
Abbie, musingly, "but the soil don't seem 
to be just right. You see, we're so fond 
of it at our table, if I'm not on the tick 
of time, I'm liable not to get even a smell. 
Everybody dives for the horse-radish 
dish the first thing — I guess they know 
they have to, if they get any." 

"I'll send some in to your landlady," 
offered Nellie in a rush of impulse. "I 
haven't forgotten boarding-house days." 

"Why, why don't you sell it? Furnish 
it all the time?" Abbie's brown eyes 
were speculatively taking in the size of 
the corner patch. "Yours is so good, 
you make it up so well — " 
» "It isn't bad to do, now that I grind 
the roots in the meat-chopper instead of 
trying to grate them." 

"Aunt Janie says there's always easier 
ways of doing anything if a body just 
finds 'em," agreed Abbie Andrews. " But 
I'll take your sample into my landlady, 
and we shall see what we shall see." 

And out of so small a beginning grew 
Nellie Whythacomb's business in herb 
growing. For when her friend came back 
on her next trolley trip she brought an 
order for horse-radish that made the one- 
time cash girl of Greer and Company 
open her eyes in amaze. 

"Why—?" she said. "Why— why —!" 

"Why — !" laughed her brown- 
eyed friend. "Yes, why? Why don't 
you grow herbs and sell 'em? I'm think- 
ing your horse-radish pest is going to be 
a profit. Besides, there's other things, 
and a lot of 'em ought to be started in the 
fall. There's sage, — Aunt Janie could- 
n't keep house without sage." 



"Well, I wouldn't want to get along 
without sage," admitted Nellie. "No- 
body would who had much cooking to 
do." 

"And we who sit at the table have 
something to say, too, acclaimed the one 
of the smooth, brown head. "There's 
the baked sausage balls that Aunt Janie 
makes. Two or three cups of left-over 
vegetables she takes, most anything that 
isn't sweet, potatoes or cabbage or beans 
or turnips or corn, just left-overs, usually 
several kinds, and runs them through the 
food-chopper, adds a cup of tomato juice 
and pulp, a cup of graham bread crumbs, 
salt, pepper and an egg. Into this she 
chops a cup of uncooked sausage, along 
with plenty of sage, makes the mixture 
out into little flat sausage cakes, dips in 
beaten egg and bread crumbs, fits 'em 
into her big flat bread-tin and bakes them 
till brown and well done. My, but they 
are good! They use up the left-overs, 
and really take very little meat." 

"I think I'll try them," mused the 
little farm lady. 

Abbie nodded. "But once," she went 
on, "Aunt Jane had company in the 
kitchen; she says company ought to have 
better sense," whimsically, "than to come 
out'n the kitchen bothering about the 
cook; 'cause, if company does, the cook 
is sure to * leave suth'in out'n suth'in.' 
This time, Auntie left out the sage. My 
goodness, you ought to have seen the 
eyes we turned on her when we began to 
eat. We knew something was wrong, 
right away. But we didn't know what, 
not exactly. . . . Funny what a little 
bit of seasoning will do to a thing." 

"Not so very," murmured her listener. 
Then, irrelevantly, "I could grow a lot 
of 'seasonings' on a little place like this." 

"That you could, and I suspect it 
would pay better than a meadow full of 
pigs," with a sort of idle interest. . . . 

And it did; because, as we said, that 
was the beginning of Nellie Whytha- 
comb's new venture, which turned a pest 
into profit, and put on the local market 

Concluded on page 148 






•IIIMIIIIII 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



A Raisin For Every Day 

A GOOD appetite needs no brush. 
It relishes good, well-prepared, 
wholesome food. A food is wholesome 
when it is enticing and relished in the 
eating! 

Food consumed under these conditions 
gives the minimum of work for the 
system; health is promoted, efficiency 
is increased, and the whole outlook of life 
is brightened. 

It is when we scorn natural food and 
scamper after artificial gratifications and 
indulgences that our bodily powers are 
weakened with the result the old Roman, 
Seneca, states: "Man does not die, he 
kills himself." 

A common enough, yet little used, 
article of food, that is worth many times 
its weight in food value, is the raisin. 
They are cheap, indeed, the very best of 
them, considering their calorific value. 
Thanks to the chemists are due for 
calculating for us the raisin's calories, 
in comparison with such standard foods 
as eggs and beefsteak. Their finding 
speaks with weight in favor of the raisin, 
when they show that the food power in 
one pound of raisins is more than double 
that of one pound of eggs and about 
one-third more than that contained in 
one pound of beefsteak. 

The grape, it is worth noting, has 
always been extolled and its old-time 
virtues and merits survive in our raisins 
of today. Raisins abound in fat, protein, 
phosphorus and iron in the best possible 
form to be easily assimilated by the 
human system. The raisin is more than 



three-fourths carbohydrate and contains 
the bulk of its sugar content in the form 
of fructose and levulose. Then the 
protein of the fruit is important, while 
its acid qualities spur on digestion and 
help assimilation, the appetit - being 
piqued by the agreeable flavor imparted 
to food prepared with raisins. 

Then if we had exhausted the virtue 
of the raisin, still it would be deservi:^ 
of a large place on even the humbles 
board, for it has other valuable properties. 
Of all the dried fruits none are so rich in 
mineral matter, a natural constituent our 
bodies cannot do without. 

The quantity of organic iron con- 
tained in raisins is surpassed by no other 
fruit or vegetable. Besides iron, raisins 
contain small quantities of such minerals 
as sodium, phosphorus, sulphur, po- 
tassium and calcium. 

Raisins are produced from fine, deli- 
cate, delicious, thin-skinned grapes, grown 
on the Pacific Coast, where they mature 
nicely. They are then dried in the sun 
and by artificial heat. 

There are three kinds: 

Seedless Raisins (grown without seeds). 

Seeded (seeds removed). 

Clustered " (on the stems). 

There are so many uses to which the 
raisin will lend itself that it would be 
superfluous to give recipes, but a cup of 
seedless raisins cooked in the kettle of 
stewed, dried apples makes a dish, in 
our estimation, literally kingly! 

In coffee cake we couldn't do without 
raisins. A handful of raisins put into the 
dinner pail of either child or adult is a 
real find. 



129 



130 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Raisins stewed gently in plenty of water 
and the juice poured off, and sweetened 
and cooled, provide a finer drink for 
feverish patients than that made with 
prunes. 

Fondant, flavored with a little wistaria 
and pressed about a seedless raisin, makes 
a delightful confection. 

Stewed prunes and raisins together are 
an improvement over either, singly. 

Raisins in boiled rice and puddings 
add much to the food value of the rice. 

Raisins added to the filling for cakes 
give a richness and flavor all their own. 

Raisins, chopped, are frequently added 
to the various salads we serve in our 
home. 

A handful of good seedless raisins, 
added to the pot of beef soup an hour 
before it is desired to serve it, is a wrinkle 
practised by a chef I know, and is only 
one of his many ways of giving zest, 
individuality and flavor to his cooking. 

# * * F. M. C. 

If You Do Your Own Tinting 

WHEN our new home was finished 
we had spent all our spare change 
and the walls were left untinted. In 
some of the rooms I did not dislike the 
gray plaster tint, and so they still stand, 
but my sitting and dining rooms I wanted 
tinted a pretty tan. 

"I'll do it myself. It can't be hard, 
I'll follow the directions, and we'll use 
a water tint," said the Man of the House. 
"I know I can do it the next set of 
holidays." 

And so he tried, alas and alack! 
Whether it was a defect in the plaster, 
in the walls, or what, I cannot say, or 
if the amateur tinter did not do right 
in all ways. He had procured the right 
kind of tools and studied directions. 
But the tint dried in streaks. The 
brush marks would show in spite of all 
care. 

Finally, the Man of the House went 
to a friend who did this particular kind 
of work, tinting walls. It was his busi- 
ness; and, they say, there are tricks in all 



trades. Perhaps, this isn't a trick. It 
may be only a device, but it worked. 
What more could we want? 

"Get some glue, melt it up, thin it with 
water, hot water, and add a small quan- 
tity to each pail of water tint," advised 
our tinter-man friend. 

We got the glue. We followed direc- 
tions. We awaited results with fear 
and trembling. . . . Glory be! It worked. 
Not a brush mark showed! Not a 
streak anywhere! The Man of the 
House seemed to be doing as well as if 
he did tinting for a business instead of 
a pleasure (?). My sitting room was 
finished. My dining room was finished. 
And, like the Little Wee Bear's porridge 
appeared to Golden Hair, it was just 
right. 

I still have my pretty tan walls, and 
I am perfectly satisfied. The money we 
saved bought pretty curtains for the 
windows. But, isn't it strange? the 
Man of the House swore off on tinting 
plaster walls. From that day to this 
he has refused to try his hand at the trick 
again. One of the neighbors tried to get 
him to tint some rooms for them, — noth- 
ing doing! "Get somebody who knows 
how," grinned my obliging mate. 

But, because the suggestion is a good 
one,' and works to a dot, I give it to you. 
Perhaps some one else would like to 
try it. And, perhaps, if they do not 
try everything else first, and fail, they 
will not feel as My Man of the House 
feels about it. It may be, some one else 
will like to try a hand at it even a second 
time. I've known plenty who do. 

I. R. F. 

* * * 

A FACT that every mother should 
bear in mind when taking children 
out for the customary summer picnics, is 
that they should not be allowed to drink 
water from any small stream until it has 
been thoroughly boiled. Where the coun- 
try is at all thickly settled there are 
constantly cases of typhoid which may 
infect the nearest stream, and small bodies 
of water, even if running in the sunshine, 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



131 



do not immediately purify themselves. 
Several cases have been traced to just 
such careless picnic luncheons, and the 
only safe way is to see that water for 
drinking or for tea or coffee has been 
boiled at least twenty minutes. 

A visit to the tropics teaches one two 
things, which can be put in practice in the 
northern markets. The first is to try 
a pineapple by pulling the stiff leaves at 
the top. When they will come off easily 
without jerking, the fruit is just ripe 
enough. This is the West Indian market 
woman's method, and a few experiments 
with it will make one quite expert. The 
second is that the nearer the surface the 
eyes are in a cocoanut, the fresher it is, 
and this freshness insures an advantage 
in flavor and in the amount of milk 
which the nut contains, a fact that the 
ordinary buyer commonly overlooks. 
The milk, which is often thrown away, 
will make a delicious cocoanut ice, or will 
add flavor to cocoanut cake or candy. 
The most economical way to secure it is 
to drive nails through the eyes and let 
the milk drip into a bowl before the nut 
is cracked. 

It is a tradition in our household that 
when currant jelly is made, raspberry and 
currant jelly must also be manufactured. 
Probably the idea first came from an 
economical desire to use up the small 
fruits before they withered with the heat. 
Whatever its origin, we have come to like 
the jelly thus made much better than the 
plain currant, and as it is very easily 
prepared, and makes a variation in the 
day to day diet, it deserves the con- 
sideration of every housewife. 

The recipe is as follows: To two 
quarts of red or black raspberries allow 
one quart of red currants. Put the fruit 
over the fire until it is completely broken 
to pieces, strain, and to each pint of 
juice allow one pound of sugar. Boil the 
juice twenty minutes, heating the sugar 
meanwhile. At the end of the period 
unite the two and let the liquid again come 



to a boil to make certain that the sugar 
is completely dissolved. Roll the glasses 
in hot water, fill and cover as for any 
jelly. 

This jelly has an exquisite flavor, and 
we have used it in many ways. It is 
especially good for cake, and it is also 
excellent for melting, and, with a little 
lemon juice added, using as a sauce with 
plain vanilla ice cream. In this liquid 
state it makes an excellent sauce for 
cottage pudding; mixed with lemon juice 
and water it can appear as an impromptu 
drink a little more elaborate than plain 
lemonade; it is very nice in Queen of all 
Puddings, or on the top of Floating 
Island, and it may be used as a delicious 
flavoring for fondant or for chocolate 
candies. m. v. 

The best way of all is to can the currant juice 
and the raspberry juice whenever available, then 
unite the two and make the jelly when needed. 

— Editor. 

* * * 

No More Tears if You Use 
Goggles When Peeling Onions 

SINCE time immemorial one of the 
bugbears of the housewife has been 
the irritating fumes that rise up and 
cause the eyes to smart and weep co- 
piously when one is peeling onions. But 
this trouble has been overcome in a very 
simple manner by a Chicago woman. 
All you have to do is go out and buy a 
cheap pair of automobile goggles, costing 
ten cents, put them on, and then you can 
peel onions all day without the slightest 
discomfort. Furthermore, the goggles 
will be found useful in doing other house- 
hold «work that causes much dust to 
arise, and when ammonia and similar 
substances, which give off irritating fumes, 
are used for cleaning purposes. The 
glass in these goggles is perfectly clear, 
hence, they do not interfere at all with 

the user's sight. r. h. m. 

* * * 

Save Your Cake Crumbs 

WHEN rich fruit cake is cut, there is 
always a handful of luscious, 
fruity crumbs left in the pan. If these 



132 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



are allowed to accumulate with each 
successive cutting until the cake is gone, 
there will be enough to make a most 
delicious fruit pudding, the pride of a 
holiday dinner. 

Here is the recipe: Two cups of 
crumbs (if you have not quite enough 
cake crumbs, piece out with a few toast 
or bread crumbs); the yolk of one egg 
and three-fourths of a cup of sugar, 
creamed together; one and one-half cups 
of milk; a grating of nutmeg. Bake, 
and serve with the following sauce: one 
cup of sugar, one-half cup of water, one 
tablespoonful of butter, one heaping 
teaspoonful of cornstarch; flavor with 
extract to taste. h. s. j. 



Getting Your Money's Worth 

PURCHASE only what you need, and 
by all means, take care of what you 
have. Clothes should never be allowed 
to go unmended or to whip in the wind, 
and even long soaking shortens their life. 
A wise man once said, "It is not what 
you earn, but what you save, that makes 
you rich." In these days, few of us 
expect to be rich, but for our own sakes, 
as well as for that of others, we must get 
full value from what we have. However, 
do not go without a necessity, provided 
you have the price. It is neither wise 
nor just. The "other fellow" needs the 
money. But mere gratification of desire 
is not to be thought of. Until one tries, 
he never knows how much enjoyment 
there is in simply looking at things. If 
the five and ten cent stores have what 
you need, patronize them. They contain 
many things of value, which cost con- 
siderably more elsewhere. 

Saving the Pennies 

Today, it is not "How much can I 
spend?" but, "how much can I save?' : 
Not, "Pooh, it's only a dollar!" but 
"how can I make this dollar do the work 
of two?" Doing one's own sewing and 
mending help materially, and fortunate 



is she who can trim her hats as well. 

"Necessity is the mother of invention." 

Tasty garments may, often, be fashioned 

from odds and ends, and bright bits used 

as trimming will make the scanty pattern 

suffice. Many a mother knows the 

knack of dyeing and turning and cutting 

down. To do it well requires taste and 

care and judgment, but what mother ever 

failed to meet the demand on her? Even 

"made-overs" look well, if not slighted. 

Old garments and old carpets make 

pretty rugs, and if one must, Sarah's 

worn dress, your petticoat and Aunt 

Jane's flannels may be combined to j 

furnish warmth to an otherwise scantily I 

covered bed. Do the work in the sim- i 

plest and quickest possible manner, i 

however. Much time spent on old \ 

materials is not desirable. Old table- 

cloths and napkins darned or cut into 

lunch cloths, children's napkins, bread j 

wrappers and wash rags considerably 

prolong their usefulness, and partially : 

worn out shoes should be patched and j 

half-soled. Throw away nothing which 

has possibilities, and few things have not. | 

E. j. D. 
* * * 

Continental Bread Soup 

Delicious and Nutritious, Specially, 

Good for Children and Aged 

Persons 

SOAK old bread (rye, graham or white) 
till it is soft; squeeze out the water. 
Pour on boiling water enough to make 
a soup of the desired consistency. Cook 
until the bread is turned into mush; add 
a piece of butter (about a level teaspoon-! 
ful for one person), raisins, and cinnamon 
and sugar according to taste, half as 
much milk or cream as water used; cook 
ten minutes. 

Remove from the flame and stir in the 
beaten yolk of an egg. Beat the white 
to a stiff froth with sugar and flavoring 
extract and put it by teaspoonfuls or 
the soup ready to serve; one egg foi 
soup for two persons. I. F. 









THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe* 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answer! 
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 4074. — "Please tell me what is 
wrong with my Lemon Pies. There is always an 
amount of liquid that soaks into the lower crust. 
The meringue does not fall nor shrink away from 
the crust. I have many calls for individual 
lemon pies, but am afraid to try them." 

To Keep Lower Crust Dry 
in Lemon Pies 

There are several causes that might 
account for the condition of which you 
speak. 

Do you cook the custard before turning 
it into the crust? 

Does your oven bake well on the 
bottom ? 

Lemon-pie filling should be cooked in 
a double boiler until it is as thick as 
needed for the finished pie, making 
allowance for the fact that the filling is 
hot. There are two reasons for this, the 
chief one being that long cooking is 
needed for the starch required for thick- 
ening. If the starch is thoroughly 
cooked, there cannot be an accumulation 
of liquid. If milk is used, cook the cus- 
tard well and add the lemon juice when 
half done to avoid curdling. 

Some cooks bake the crust without the 
custard and put the two together just 
before serving. It is possible to make 
the finished pie at one baking, however, 
and have a dry lower crust. The oven must 
bake well on the bottom and begin at once. 

Query No. 4075. — "Kindly give a recipe for 
Chocolate Pudding made of bread, and also one 
without bread." 

Chocolate Pudding with Bread 

Cut bread into fingers an inch and a 



half wide and long enough to line the 
bottom and sides of a buttered mold. 
Butter both sides of the bread very 
lightly. Pile fingers of bread loosely, 
log-cabin fashion, inside the mold. 

Fill the mold with a custard and allow 
it to stand for a while, especially if the 
bread is dry. If necessary, add a little 
more milk. The mold should be filled 
to within an inch of the top. Place on 
several layers of thick paper in a pan 
containing hot water. Bake until the 
custard is set, but do not allow the water 
to boil. To make the custard, allow one 
pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
eight tablespoonfuls of sugar, four eggs, 
w r ell beaten, and one teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Melt four squares of chocolate 
and stir into the sugar. 

Sauce for Chocolate Pudding 

Cream together one-half cup of butter 
and one cup of powdered sugar until there 
is no sound of the sugar. Add one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and fold into the 
stiff white of one egg. 

Devils Food Chocolate Pudding 

Melt four squares of chocolate in a 
granite sauce pan; add one-half cup of 
sugar and one-half cup of milk. Cook 
till it makes a smooth syrup. Add one 
egg, well beaten, and cook slowly till 
smooth and rather waxy. Set aside to 
cool. Cream together one-half cup of 
butter, and one cup of sugar. Add one 
egg and the yolk of another, one cup of 



133 



134 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



milk. Add a tablespoonful of hot water 
to one teaspoonful of soda and add to the 
cool chocolate mixture. Add this to the 
cake mixture and mix thoroughly; add 
two cups of flour. Fill a buttered mold 
to within an inch of the top, cover the 
mold and steam an hour or longer. 



Query No. 4076. — "All my Pie Crust turns 
out tough. Will you please help me?" 

Recipe for Tender Pie Crust 

It is impossible to make good pie 
crust unless the proportion between flour, 
fat and wetting is adhered to exactly. 
But positive skill is needed to secure the 
full benefit from the wetting. When the 
fat and flour have been thoroughly com- 
bined, the mixture is granular, like 
rather coarse corn meal. A fork is useful 
for tossing the dry particles together, as 
the wetting is added a little at a time. 
Let the moist dough be pressed against 
the dry part before adding more wetting. 
// pie dough is wet it will be tough. 
More failures are due to that fact than 
to any other. Pie dough should never 
be more than moist, and it should just 
hold together and scarcely that. Prac- 
tice will give skill in using the wetting 
almost a drop at a time. 

Mix together, thoroughly, one cup of 
flour, one-fourth teaspoonful of baking 
powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt. 
Work in three level tablespoonfuls of 
lard and then toss together with not more 
than one-fourth cup of ice cold water. 
Try to get along with less. Pastry can 
be kept for several days in the ice box, 
but not on the ice. 



Query No. 4077. — "Can you give me a 
good Drawn Butter Sauce for puddings and a good 
substitute for whipped cream as a sauce?" 

Drawn Butter Pudding Sauce 

Rub together two tablespoonfuls of 
flour and the same of butter. Add 
gradually two cups of boiling water and 
one cup of brown sugar. Cook till 
thickened and clear. Flavor with lemon 
or vanilla. 



Whipped Cream Substitute 
as Sauce 

Mix together two tablespoonfuls of 
corn starch and the same of sugar. Add 
two cups of sweet milk and cook in a 
double boiler till thickened. Pour slowly 
over the stiff whites of two eggs. Beat 
well, return to the fire and cook till the 
consistency of cream. 



Query No. 4078. — "Will you please give 
recipes for Sour Cucumber Pickles and Sweet 
Cucumber Pickles? Mine lack flavor. Also the 
recipe for Park Liner Pudding." 

Recipe for Sour Cucumber 
Pickles 

Make a brine that will float a fresh 
egg. Soak the pickles over night or 
longer if not convenient to attend to 
them. In the morning take from the 
brine, rinse in cold water and wipe dry. 
If they have been in brine a longer time, 
test for saltiness and soak in clear water 
till right. For each quart jar allow two 
heads of dill, two bay leaves broken in 
bits, one-fourth ounce of mustard seed 
(white) and twelve whole cloves. Also 
slice one small horse-radish root and one 
small piece of ginger root. Cover these 
with vinegar enough to cover the pickles 
and bring to a boil. Tie one tablespoon- 
ful of mustard in a thin cloth and put 
into the vinegar. Pack the pickles nicely 
in glass jars and distribute the spices 
evenly when packing. Fill to the top 
with hot vinegar (as soon as it has 
reached the boiling point it must be 
taken from the fire) and seal while hot. 

Sweet Cucumber Pickles 

Soak in brine, as directed for sour 
pickles, freshen and pack in jars. The 
same spices as given for sour pickles will 
do or a different flavor will be given by 
using one-half ounce, each, of coriander 
seed and celery seed and a few allspice 
berries instead of the horse-radish and 
dill. Weigh the pickles and allow half 
as much brown sugar as pickles; half 
sugar and half honey is good. Bring the 



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Crisco is a vegetable cooking product, the cream of 
wholesome vegetable oils. It is pure, white, tasteless, 
and odorless, and does not turn rancid. 

Crisco is all richness, and is unsalted. It costs only 
about half as much as butter, and goes farther in 
cooking, because even the best butter is one-fifth 
water and salt. 

Use Crisco for all kinds of cooking. 
For Frying 

Crisco fries without smoking. This means a clean, 
sweet-smelling house. Crisco gives up its heat more 
quickly than lard. Thus it forms a protecting crust 
around food the instant it is dropped into the kettle, 
keeping the fat out, and the flavor in. No greasy 
taste to Crisco-fried doughnuts or fritters. And no 
waste of fat — just strain the melted Crisco and use 
again. The Crisco retains no taste of food it has fried. 

For Shortening 

Crisco is a more delicate shortening — and a richer 
one. Use it in any recipe, and you'll have lighter, 
flakier, tenderer pie-crust, biscuits and muffins than 
you ever tasted. And they'll be more digestible, be- 
cause Crisco is a vegetable fat. 

For Cake Making 

Add salt to Crisco, use it in cake, and you'll have 
the butter taste at half of butter cost. Use one-fifth 
less Crisco, or your cake will be too rich. Enjoy 
fine cakes, cookies, puddings and other desserts. 
Crisco makes them economically. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

135 



136 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



vinegar, spices and sugar to a boil, and 
continue for five minutes; pour over 
the pickles in the jars; seal while hot. 

We are not familiar with Park Liner 
Pudding by that name. 



Query No. 4079. — "Will you please give a 
recipe for a Cooked Salad Dressing that has the 
mild taste of real mayonnaise and will keep for 
two weeks? " 

Cooked Salad Dressing That 
Keeps Well 

This dressing keeps for two weeks if 
sealed and kept in a cool place. Mix 
together one tablespoonful of sugar, the 
same of olive oil and salt, one scant 
tablespoonful of mustard; add the beaten 
yolks of three eggs and cook over water 
until thick. Add one cup of milk or, 
better yet, sour cream, and continue 
cooking till a smooth custard. Beat the 
whites stiff and pour the dressing over, 
beating constantly. Return to the hot 
water and cook till smooth, stirring 
constantly. 

Query No. 4080. — "Could you send me a 
recipe for a Salad having a mold in the center of 
the appearance and consistency of Bavarian 
cream, but tasting as though made of cream 
cheese, possibly with a basis of gelatine and 
whipped cream, with sections of grape fruit and 
orange on lettuce leaves around the base; also, 
a dressing, if necessary, for the same? " 

Molded Cream Cheese Salad 

A very dainty salad, such as you 
describe, could be made from junket 
cream cheese. Use a rich grade of sweet 
milk, heated to barely lukewarm tem- 
perature. It is useless to use junket, if 
that temperature has been exceeded, for 
the milk has been changed, chemically, 
so that junket will not act. Use at 
least four times as much milk as you will 
need of cheese and follow directions on 
the package for amount of junket to use. 
Let stand over night, or until very firm. 
The milk must not be moved after the 
tablet has been put in. The next morn- 
ing turn the curd into a thin bag and 
hang in a cool place to drip. After a 
while pressure may be applied and a dry 
curd secured. The drier the better. 



Turn into a bowl and break into small 
pieces. Add salt and work well; add 
rich cream cautiously, working smooth 
after each addition. The point is to 
secure a smooth mass and avoid making 
it too moist. Cream cheese can be 
molded to keep its shape, but the addition 
of gelatine to the cream, a little in excess 
of the amount necessary to that amount 
of cream, would insure a firm mold. A 
ring mold would be pretty with lettuce 
hearts in the center. A very delicate 
coating of French dressing put on the 
lettuce just before sending to the table 
would insure a fine salad. The orange 
and grape fruit sections could be arranged 
around the base. A mayonnaise made 
with just a hint of mustard, a few pinches 
of curry powder, a full amount of salt 
and all lemon juice instead of vinegar, 
would be appropriate. Add whipped 
cream to the mayonnaise before using. 
In case a mayonnaise is not used, make 
a sharp French dressing, using only oil, 
lemon juice and salt. 



Query No. 4081. — "Will you kindly pub- 
lish a recipe for Canned Vegetable Chowder?" 

Canned Vegetable Chowder 

Corn Chowder is always a favorite. 
Take two thin slices of fat pickled pork 
or "green bacon," as it is called in some 
localities. Cut into dice and try out 
slowly. In a sauce pan have potatoes 
that have been pared and sliced, boiling 
in water to cover. When nearly done, 
add the pork and fat with one can of 
sweet corn, the water in which the pota- 
toes were cooked and milk enough to 
make the quantity of chowder desired. 
If it seems too thin, thicken slightly, or 
pour the chowder on to soda crackers 
when serving. 

A fine chowder may be made by using 
one small can of tomato soup, one can of 
chicken soup, both thickened slightly, 
and as much milk as needed to complete 
the quantity. Add any seasoning needed, 
half a can of corn and one can of string 
beans. The beans may be omitted and 
asparagus tips substituted. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Make your Ices, Pies, Puddings and other 
Dainty Dishes more tasty by using 

STICKNEY & POOR'S 

Flavoring Extracts 

Their uniform quality, strength and fine flavor assures 
you of "best results" always. Like all Stickney & Poor 
Products, they are made from the purest and best in- 
gredients obtainable and this explains why, for more 
than a century, Stickney & Poor's reliable products 
have been favorites with housewives in New England. 
Test their goodness for yourself. Order Stickney & 
Poor's Flavoring Extracts from your grocer. You'll 
like them best of all. 



Your co-operating servant, 

MUSTARDPOT 



Stickney 6* JPoor Spice Company 

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919 
Mustard-Spices BOSTON, MASS. Seasonings-Flavorings 

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT 





Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

137 



The Silver Lining 



Habit 

How did I acquire the habit! 
Once was shy as any rabbit, 

This I'm apt to do — 
Every day, the neighbors know it, 
Realize I shameless show it, 

I am tagging you. 

Easy, very, to get started, 
Never do to be faint-hearted, 

Childish, perhaps, too, 
Telephone is overworking, 
Handy car is never shirking, 

Both are tagging you. 

Scmet : nes wonder what's your feeling, 
Sjhin -like maid, with eyes appealing! 

J 1 ome folks call 'em blue, 
] inr'' your house in any weather, 
Oh '-rful if we're just together, 

Always tagging you. 

Thought I'd ask you last September, 
Put it off until December, 

Don't believe you knew. 
Now that April winds are blowing, 
Nature all her feelings showing, 

Still, I'm tagging you. 

Wish I knew how to begin it, 
Gracious child, why you are in it, 

Help me out a few. 
You might say — "I'd feel it sadly, 
Should you stop, I'd miss you badly, 

Keep on tagging, do!" 

— A. T. Frost. 



Her Idea of Men 

A little girl wrote the following compo- 
sition on men: 

"Men are what women marry. They 
drink and smoke and swear, but don't go 
to church. Perhaps if they wore bonnets 
they would. They are more logical than 
women, also more zoological. Both men 
and women sprang from the monkeys, 
but the women sprang farther than the 
men." — Ladies' Home Journal. 



When Cooking Tells 

The cook was having a day off, and 
she came down wearing a very stylish 
frock. 

"Why, Mary," said the lady of the 
house, admiringly, "what a nice dress. 
It would be hard to distinguish the 
mistress from the cook." 



"Don't you worry, mum," replied 
Mary. " The cooking would tell." 

Napoleon's Pose 

The following story is an illustration of 
the unfailing humor of the Yankee sol- 
diers in the trenches: 

Bill, from the Bowery, busily engaged 
in hunting "cooties," says to his com- 
panion in misery: "Say, I knows now 
why dat guy Napoleon always had his 
picter took wid his hand in de front of 
his shirt!" 

The Lesser Evil 

The matrimonial problem presented 
itself to a young lady who had reached a 
marriageable age. 

"Jeanie," said her father, "it's a 
solemn thing to get married." 

"I ken that, father," said the sensible 
lass; "but it's a great deal solemner to be 
single." 

Hard to Keep Down 

"The Germans," said Senator 
Cummins, at a reception, "are already 
growing cocky again. A naturalized 
German said to me the other day: 'We 
Germans are a wonderful people. The 
Allies will never be able to keep us down.' 
I gave a laugh. 'In one way, I'll admit,' 
I said, 'they'll find it hard to keep you 
down.' 'Yes, what way is that?' 'The 
way,' said I, 'the whale couldn't keep 
down Jonah.' " 

Didn't Help Her Any 

Mandy had been troubled with a tooth- 
ache for some time before she got up 
sufficient courage to go to the dentist. 
The moment he touched her tooth she 
screamed. 

"What are you making such a noise 
for?" he demanded. "Don't you know 
I'm a painless dentist?" 

"Well, sah," retorted Mandy, "mebbe 
yo' is painless, but ah ain't.' 



>4- " 



138 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




"Bubble Grains This Morning " 

Millions know how children welcome Puffed Grains in the morning. How they revel in 
Puffed Wheat in milk at night. 

There are other cereal dainties. But what compares with these bubble grains, thin, flavory, 
toasted, puffed to eight times normal size? 

Why not let them greet the children every summer morning? 

Tidbits of Whole Wheat 

Consider Puffed Wheat, for instance. It is whole wheat, steam-exploded. 

In every kernel there occur more than 100 million explosions. Every food cell is thus 
blasted, so digestion is made easy and complete. 

The exploded grains are thin and fragile, flaky, flavory — nut-like in their taste. They 
seem like food confections. 

Yet they form the greatest whole-wheat food which has ever been created. 

For Every Hungry Hour 

A bowl of milk with Puffed Grains in it gains a multiplied delight. All fruits taste vastly 
better if you mix these Puffed Grains in them. 

Then keep a dish of Puffed Grains, doused with melted butter for hungry children between 
meals. Thev are better than cookies or sweetmeats. 



Puffed Wheat 



Puffed Rice 



and Corn Puffs 

Each 15 cents — Except in Far West 



The Quaker Qats (bmpany 



Sole Makers 



3164 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

139 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Samson et Dalila" 

A middle-aged man was examining the 
phonograph record catalog in a Kansas 
City store, recently. "Why is this 
opery called 'Samson et Dalila '?' : he 
asked. "As I recollect the story, Dalila 
darn near et Samson." — ■ Reedy's Mirror. 



Admiral Sims is credited with this 
story: "The traveling salesman, in the 
pie belt of New England, forced to eat 
dinner in a small town, sat down at the 
table. The waiter approached and sug- 
gested the following menu: roast beef, 
stew, or baked beans; and for dessert -a 
choice of pumpkin pie, raspberry pie, 
and apple pie. 'I will have roast beef, 
stew, and baked beans, and pumpkin 
pie, and raspberry pie,' said the salesman. 
'There's nothing the matter with the 
apple pie, is there?' asked the waiter." 

"Now," said Admiral Sims to one of 
the Englishmen present, "I'll bet you 



can't tell me what was the matter with 
that apple pie." "I'll be blamed if I 
can," said the Englishman. 



A Poser 

Daphne and Doris are charming and sweet; 

Best of the maidens I chance to have met. 
Doris is stately and Daphne petite, 

Daphne's a blonde type and Doris brunette. 

When something happens to cause me distress, 
Doris will comfort and Daphne will tease; 

Yet to my heart (I am bound to confess) 
Daphne and Doris hold duplicate keys! 

When I feel frivolous, Doris seems slow; 

When I am serious, Daphne's a bore; 
How in creation shall I ever know 

Which is the girl that I truly adore? 

Should I wed Doris, in fashion sedate, 
I shall be longing for Daphne the gay; 

If I choose Daphne — she'll lead me a gait! 
For quiet and Doris I surely will pray. 

Pity a lover so sorely perplexed! 

I've questioned my reason, examined my heart, 
What is the answer? What shall I do next? 

I think I'll woo Delia, and get a fresh start! 

— Iris. 



This New Range Is A 
,Wonder For Cooking 

Although less than four feet long it can do every kind 
of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in summer 
or by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating. 

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as 

the gas section is as entirely separate from the coal 
section as if placed in another part of the kitchen. 

Note the two gas 
ovens above — one 

for baking, glass 
paneled and one for 
broiling with white 
enamel door. The 
large square oven 





The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy" 



Coal, Wood and Gas Range 

below is heated by coal or wood. 

See the cooking surface when you want to rush things— five burners 
for gas and four covers for coal. The entire range is always available 
as both coal and gas ovens can be operated at the same time, using 
one for meats and the other for pastry. It Makes Cooking Easy. 

0%^l Gold Medal m 

Glenwood 

Write to-day for handsome free booklet 165 that tells all about it, to 

Weir StOVe Co., Taunton, Mass. Manufacturers of the Celebrated Glenwood 
Coal, Wood and Gas Ranges, Heating StoveB and Furnaces. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

140 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Friday Afternoon 



for 



Strong and self-reliant, Nan reads 
her essay without tremor or quake, 
while Dorothy, in another room, 
barely gets through her part without 
breaking down. 

It isn't because they were "born 
that way." It may be a matter of 
nourishment. We all know that good 
food and good digestion will gener- 
ally supply strength and confidence 
emergencies much greater than those of Friday afternoon. 




is a part of the well balanced diet that can be relied upon to sustain anyone, child or man, 
when perfect control of the faculties is required. 

Jell-0 does not have to be cooked and can be made in a minute. These are the six 
flavors : Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, Orange, Cherry, Chocolate. Two packages for 25 
cents at all grocers'. 

The latest Jell-0 Book will be sent free to every woman who will send us her name and 
address. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY 
Le Roy, N. Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

141 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




is preferred for sweetening and flavoring 
by many housewives. Its wholesome 
purity and real maple flavor imparts an 
added tastiness to pies, puddings, cake 
and cookies. A trial will make you a life- 
long friend of Uncle John's Syrup — and 
convince you that 

It's as Necessary on the Table 
as the Sugar and the Cream 

Uncle John's Syrup is delicious on brown bread, 
pan cakes, and waffles. When served on Ice 
Cream it makes a splendid Maple Sundae. Try- 
it — you'll find a new and palatable way to use it 
every day. Ask your grocer. 

Put up in 4 convenient sizes 

New England Maple Syrup Co. 

BOSTON, MASS. 









Eat More Bread 






Bread is the most importanl 
we eat. It furnishes abu 
nourishment in readily dig< 
form. The fact that it nev 
comes tiresome though eate 
after day, is proof of its n 
food qualities. 

Eat plenty of bread made u 

FLEISCHMANN'S Y 


: food 
ndant 
istible 
er be- 
n day 
atural 

iith 

EAST 



Home Life in Pioneer Days 

Conclvded from page Q4 

hand embroidered, monogrammed, hem- 
stitched linens were among her belong- 
ings, to involve extra care and expense. 
To have wiped on a hand-embroidered 
towel would have been condemned as 
nothing short of criminal, and as to 
lamb's wool and down-silk quilts, such 
extravagancies would have been inex- 
cusable. And yet today we are willing 
to pay four times the price of a silk com- 
forter for one of the old-fashioned cover- 
lids woven by pioneer housewives. As 
to the home-woven linen sheets, many a 
woman, who is so fortunate as to count 
among her possessions these remnants 
of the good old days, is utilizing them for 
portieres and even gowns. Such a dis- 
position of these treasures would doubt- 
less scandalize the good dames who wove 
the fabrics with toil-worn fingers and 
painstaking care. 

The few pieces of silverware owned by 
the pioneer housewife were priceless 
heirlooms, and rarely saw the light of 
day. Two or three spoons, marked with 
the monogram of some ancestor, or a 
silver teapot, were kept wrapped in 
flannel in a great copper bound chest, 
only to be brought out on state occasions. 
The people in those days, however, who 
could boast of such heirlooms were in 
the minority, for it was the custom for 
housewives to keep their own copper 
moulds and make pewter spoons. 

The china collector who raves over 
willow platters, and other old dishes, 
would have felt that the pioneer house- 
wife desecrated the beautiful ware, could 
she have seen the plebeian uses to which 
it was put. Many a piece of willow warej 




ANGLEFOO 

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer 



The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says In the bulletin: "Special 
pains should be taken to prevent children from drinking poi- 
soned baits and poisoned flies dropping into foods or drinks." 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

142 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




«pp 








Wilson's Certified Bacon 

excels in flavor and quality 

A few slices of Wilson's 
Certified Bacon — hot 
from the 'kitchen — a 
teasing, pleasing aroma 
that wakens new zest 
in your appetite — a 
crisp, rich, delicious 
taste that tells of ex- 
celling quality — No 
one has a better 
breakfast than you! 

Only choice bacon sides 
are given our long, 
mild cure and sweet 
hickory smoking, so 
that the finished prod- 
uct proves to you 
that "Certified" is not 




a mere trade name but is a 
principle. 

We are as careful and 
thoughtful as your own 
mother would be in the 
selection and preparation 
of Certified Bacon, as well 
as Certified Ham and all 
other foods bearing the 
Wilson Label. This 
label is a constant assur- 
ance to you that the 
product has been hand- 
led with the respect 
your food deserves. 

It is an economy to 
buy the whole piece 
of Wilson's Certified 
Bacon. 



*JKu> mcuik. 



s\ r\ n 



WtLSON flc CO. 



xr±x/ 



yovji quatemtee' 



,7i<? Wilson, Label Protects TToizr Table 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

143 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The Graduate Housekeeper 

THE demand for expert assistance in private 
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range 
from £60 to $100 a month, or more, with 
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and 
an average of eight hours a day "on duty. 
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are 
given the same dignified social recognition as 
trained graduate nurses. 

Here is your opportunity — our new home- 
study course for professional housekeepers will 
teach you to become an expert in the selection 
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and 
food values, in marketing and household ac- 
counts, in the management of the cleaning, 
laundry work, mending, child care and training, 
— in all the manifold activities of the home. 
When you graduate we place you in a satis- 
factory position without charge. Some posi- 
tions are non-resident, others part-time. 

The training is based on our Household Engin- 
eering course, with much of our Home Economics 
and Lessons in Cooking courses required. 
Usually the work can be completed and diploma 
awarded in six months, though three years is 
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting 
and just what every housekeeper ought to have 
for her own home. 

To those who enroll this month, we are allow- 
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are 
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science 
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths 
leather style. This contains our full Home 
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and 'Household 
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus- 
trations, — a complete professional library. 

Our reputation, and fifteen years of exper- 
ience backs this course. Your provisional 
enrollment is invited, with no obligation or 
expense to you. 

American School of Home Economics, 
503 W. 69th Street, Chicago. 

Please enroll me, provisionally, for your new Graduate 
Housekeepers' Course. Send the "Domestic Science 
Library" in six volumes, de Luxe edition, with first lessons 
and full details. If satisfactory, I will send first pay- 
subsequent payments of $5 per month until a total of $25 
ment of $5, five days after receiving the "Library" and 
is sent in full payment. — for instruction, diploma and 
for all expenses. The "Library" becomes my property, 
and all membership privileges are to be included for three 
(3) years. If not suited I will return books, etc., in five 
days, at your expense and will owe you nothing. 

Name 

(Miss or Mrs.) 

Address 

Information 

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference) 



which now adorns the dfawing-room 
mantel piece and the china closet of the 
collector, has literally been rescued from 
the rubbish pile. 

Such busy days as those were! In 
addition to all the regular household 
tasks and the rearing of and caring for 
the children there were so many extra 
duties. When the housewife ever found 
time to spin all her linen, to make shoes 
for her family, to make her candles and 
spoons, is a mystery. But then she was 
a thrifty dame, and spent much less time 
on her clothes and superfluous adorn- 
ments than does her modern sister, who 
never has time for anything. 

It must have been an experience worth 
having to sleep in the attic on rainy 
nights, and listen to the patter of the 
raindrops on the roof. The home-made 
trundle bed of rough-hewn posts was 
substantial, if it was homely, and although 
it could not boast of woven wire springs, 
it was very comfortable with its woven 
rope " springs," and capacious feather 
bed. As to the old patchwork quilt, 
which covered the bed, it was a relic of 
which even the children were proud, for 
it was made of pieces of gowns worn by 
great aunts and great grandmammas 
long since dead. 

What a place that attic was, with its 
old skin-covered trunk, its queer old 
band boxes, its curious lanterns, its 
quaint baskets and saddle-bags. Then, 
too, there was always the pungent odor 
of drying herbs, which hung from the 
ceiling, and the pleasant smell of which 
filled the chamber with a fragrance that 
recalled the summer time. But the attic 
is filled with other memories, for it was 
also the center of many exciting and 
anxious hours when the safety of the little 
home was threatened and the guards 
watched for Indians through the port 
holes. 

The crude contrivances with which our 
forefathers kept house, cleared the land, 
tilled the virgin soil and wove their 
clothing from their own field products 
are all to be seen in the dim light of the 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

144 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



DON'T let single electric light 
sockets deprive you of any of the 
conveniences of electricity. Your sin- 
gle sockets can be turned into double 
workers instantly and without any 
wiring. The 



provides any single socket with two 
outlets. It makes it easy to attach an 
appliance without removing the lamp. 
It makes a single socket able to give 
power as well as light— heat as well as 
light — or two lights. No appliance 
need be a slacker. 

Millions now in successful use. Folder 
free on request. 

Every Wired Home Needs Three or More 

At Your Dealer's 




TheBenjaminNo. 903 Swivel Attach- 
ment Plug screws into any electric 
socket without twisting the cord. 



The Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Hold- 
er makes it easy to use any shade 
with your Two-Way Plug. Price 15c. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

145 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



p^^. 





w*» 






.,.<■■- 



■*K, 



^JL Direct from the Ocean //^ 
^^T# to you '/jr^j 

The finest fish product for making 

Creamed Fish Fish Souffle 
Codfish Balls Fish Salad 

fish croquettes, curried fish, and many 
other dainty and delicious fish dishes. 
Only the firm white meat of the big, 
wholesome cod and haddock, packed 
in parchment lined airtight containers. 
It takes three pounds of fish to make 
one pound of 

BURNHAM & MORRILL 
FISH FLAKES 

No cooking — no shredding — no bon- 
ing. No loss of time — no wasted effort 
— no delayed meals. Just the solid 
white meat of deep-sea fish — prepared 
and cooked in modern, sanitary, seaside 
kitchens. Ready to serve the moment 
the perfect contents are removed from 
the tin. Burnham & Morrill Fish 
Flakes simplify the cooking question, 
delight the family and are nourishing 
as well as appetizing. 

At your grocer's 

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO. 

75 Water St., Portland, Me., U. S, A. 

Free on request — "A Book of Recipes" for prepar- 
ing many tempting dishes. 

Packing and specializing in State of Maine 
Food Products only — the best of their kind — in- 
cluding B& M Paris Sugar Corn — B fc? M Pork 
and Beans, B& M Clam Chowder, BUM Lobster 



cabin which is illuminated by old-style 
glims. Near the cabin is an ancient 
bee hive, a crude ash hopper, and a well- 
sweep, each one of which has its story to 
tell about the early pioneer days, and the 
simple life which the people exemplified 
and loved so well. 4 

MORE ABOUT VITAMINES 

PROFESSOR BAYLISS, of Univer- 
sity College, says, "There are at least 
three different kinds. The anti-neurotic 
vitamines, which include those that pre- 
vent beri-beri; the antiscorbutic vita- 
mines, effectual against scurvy; and 
the vitamines that are necessary for 
growth. Raw food contains a far greater 
amount of vitamines than cooked food. 
Boiling in alkaline water is especially 
prejudicial, and destruction is also effected 
by most of the processes of drying and 
preserving, including all tinned foods. 
Oranges, lemons, and lime juice contain 
an exceptionally large proportion of anti- 
scorbutic vitamines. Sugar is lacking in 
vitamines, but they are found in honey 
Milk contains them except in the ster- 
ilized or condensed form. Cereals thai 
have lost their outer coats, such as 
polished rice, are deficient in them. Rau 
meat, if only we could eat it, would yielc 
a much richer supply of vitamines thar 
we can obtain from it when cooked." T( 
sum up, Professor Bayliss assures al 
anxious enquirers that "Nobody wh( 
lives" on a mixed diet — especially if i 
includes a fair proportion of fresh frui 
and vegetables — need worry himsel 
about vitamines. If they are absen 
from one article they are likely to b 
present in some other. 5 



?> 



When Dirt Is Sweet 

Last night, when we put Phil to bed, 
With sleepy eyes weighed down like lead; 
We just forgot — to wash his face, 
And left on it — more than a trace 
Of mixed-up tears, and grimy streaks, 
Besmirching both his dimpled cheeks. 
When dawning day brought light again, 
And wakeful eyes, and smiles; why, then — [ 
We vowed, so sweet a face was never kissed,; 
Why, e'en the dirt we would have missed! 
— Myrtle Meyer Eldred. 






Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

146 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



rhe Modern Milk for the 

Modern Kitchen 



DO you know that Carnation Milk meets every 
need of Domestic Science? It is the modern 
and the economical way to use milk. 

Because Carnation Milk is sterilized after it has 
been hermetically sealed in the new container it 
will keep much longer than fresh milk. 

Remember this always: Carnation Milk is just 
about twice as rich in butter fat and milk solids as 
an equal quantity of raw milk. Therefore, when 
you add an equal part of water to Carnation, you 
get milk of natural consistency. 

Use Carnation wherever you use milk in cooking. 
Use it undiluted on cereals and in coffee. Whip it for 
desserts and salads, for it may be whipped like cream. 

The only difference between Carnation Milk and fresh 
milk is this — part of the water has been removed from 
Carnation Milk by evaporation. 

Do not confuse Carnation Milk with "sweetened-con- 
densed" milk, for it contains ho sugar and is sterilized. 

Write for "The Story of Carnation Milk" which contains 
100 carefully tested, economical recipes. We also have a 
special folder on "How to Whip Carnation Milk" which 
we will send to Domestic Science instructors for dis- 
tribution among their classes. Address Recipe Booklet 
Dept., Carnation Milk Products Co., 958 Consumers 
Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS CO. 

SEATTLE CHICAGO AYLMER, ONT. 

Evaporatories located in the better dairying sections of the United States and Canada 



Carnation 

From Contented Cows 




Milk 



The label is white and red 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

147 



AMERICAN COOKERY 







Swans Down 




It takes a 

Special 

Cake Flour 

to make 

the 
Best Cake 



^ 



Wax 
Paper 

Wrapped 



" ■■•■—■ ' 




Prepared {7lot Se(f-72ising) 




Preferred by Housewives for24years 

Especially prepared for making lighter, whiter, finer, 
better cakes, such as you will be proud to make. Pre- 
ferred by housewives, cooking-school teachers and 
domestic science experts for 24 years. 

Send 10 cents for "Cake Secrets" — a text book on 
cake making by Janet McKenzie Hill. 

IGLEHEART BROTHERS 

Established 1856 
EVANSVILLE - INDIANA 



J 



Cream Whipping Made 
Easy and Inexpensive 

^ REMO- y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk 

or Top of the Milk Bottle 

It whips up as easily as heavy cream 
and retains its stiffness. 

Every caterer and housekeeper 
wants CREMO-VESCO. 
Send for a bottle today. 



Housekeeper's size, 1 \ oz. , .30 prepaid 
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00 
(With full directions.) 



Cremo-Vesco Company 

411 BAST 23rd ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Pests Made Profitable 

{Concluded from page 128) 

in cookery. For, following the horse- 
radish and sage, came parsley and thyme 
and dill, and caraway seeds for a million 
cookies, and many a plant that Abbie 
speculated over afterward, and then 
hunted about for the busy owner to ask 
what it was, and for what it was used. 

"I didn't know one could grow so many 
flavors," she protested one day. "I 
thought they came mostly in bottles with 
corks, and one bought them down town 
at a store." 

"When you come to be a cook, even 
for two," there was a touch of tease in 
the answer, " I'll agree to furnish you with 
most of your flavors, and few of them will 
be found in bottles. Because, it is really 
you who started me out on this venture, 
and how I love it! Isn't it odd how some 
unexpected thing pushes us bodily into 
our proper niche, and we never know till 
afterward that that is exactly where we 
belong?" 

Abbie Andrews' brown eyes were fixed 
absently on the purple, purple per- 
spective. "One thing just leads to 
another," she answered thoughtfully; 
"and because we haven't any chart of 
the way ahead, we never know just 
exactly what we are coming to. That's 
one thing that makes life 'so full of a 
number of things' — remember Stevenr 
son, Nellie? — that a body can't help 
just naturally falling in love with living. 
There are such a lot of surprises tucked 
into every day, like birthday presents 
hidden about the house for us to hunt out, 
like we used to when we were little. 
Unguessed surprises everywhere." Then 
suddenly, "We girls at the office have 



SALAD SECRETS 



100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat- 
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c. 
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 

SEVEN-CENT MEALS J^pS.."^ 

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This 
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or free for names of four friends 
interested in Domestic Science. 
Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

148 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




RmoniraiHE 



8 VARIETIES 



IN TINS 



HERE»is the key to health and appetizing delight for the 
children and convenience for mother. Keep the pantry sup- 
plied with the tins full of these "Rounds of Golden Goodness." 



American 
Pimento 




Kraft or the tasty Elkhorn 
make the daintiest sand- 
wiches — not only tasty but 
full of nourishment and 
feeding value and easy to 
prepare. 

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO., Chicago-New York 

8 Varieties— Each of National Favor 

Kraft Chile Swiss Pimento Rarebit 

Camembert Roquefort Limbur&er 

Send 10c in stamps or coin for sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento 
flavor, or 20c for both. Illustrated book of recipes free. Address 
361-3 River Street, Chicago, Illinois. 



It &ives the children the very best 
of the milk — their natural and finest 
food. Economical, too; no rind, no 
waste. Be ready 
for the next 
school lunch. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

149 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



SERVICE TABLE WAGON 




rT SERVES YOUS MOML AND 
SAVtS YOUB TIMi. THAT 
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY 



Large Broad Wide Table 
Top — Removable Glass 
Service Tray — Double 
Drawer — Double 
Handles— Large Deep 
UndersheJves — "Scien- 
tifically Silent" Rubber 
Tired Swivel Wheels. 

A high grada piaca of furni- 
tur. surpassing anything yet at- 
tempted (Of GENERAL UTILITY. 
ease of action, and absolute 
noiselessnesa. WRITE NOW 
FOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET 
AND DEALERS NAME. <• 

COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO. 

■¥• ' 504J Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III. 



'IV 



\J- 



beats 
everything 

You can beat eggs, whip cream, churn 
butter, mix desserts and dressings and 
blend the most delicious drinks in a 
jiffy with a 

Roberts 

LIGHTNING BEATER 

and MIXER 

You'll find a hundred uses for it. Quick, 

strong, simple, sanitary. Nothing else 

like it made. 

// your hardware, house furnish- 
ings or department store can't 
supply it, mail $i for i-quart 
size prepaid anywhere in U. S. 
Safe delivery guaranteed. {Also 
made in pint size — 75c; 2-quart 
size— $1.75-) 

NATIONAL COMPANY 

165 Oliver St. Boston, Mass. J 



^ 



Delicious Whipped Cream 

can be easily made from ordinary Table 
Cream by adding a few drops of 

Farrand's Cream Whip 

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer 
does not carry it. 

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science. 

THE CREAM WHIP CO. 

Cleveland, Ohio 



USED 

DAILY IN A 

MILLION 

HOMES 



Colburn's 

— , @ Red Label 

Spices 

The A.Colburn Co., 
Philadelphia,U.SA 



formed a trolley-trip club, and we want 
to all come out and visit your little ranch 
some time soon, may we?" 



u 



I guess yes," beamed Nellie Whytha- 
comb, and immediately she began to plan 
a little "surprise" of a luncheon, simple 
and adapted to the date. She had 
noticed the very thing in the last Cook- 
ery Magazine, which at that very moment 
waited her reading on the little library 
table. 



The governor's wife was telling Bridget 
about her husband. "My husband, 
Bridget," she said proudly, "is head of 
the state militia." "Oi thought as 
much, ma'am," said Bridget, cheerfully. 
"Ain't he got the fine malicious look!" 



A story told of Bishop Greer illustrates 
the plain nature of the man. On an 
occasion when he was to confirm a class, 
a carriage was sent for him in charge of an 
English coachman who had been im- 
ported by a wealthy American. Bishop 
Greer walked unaccompanied and in non- 
clerical dress from his front door to the 
carriage and entered it, but the driver 
did not move his horses. After waiting 
for a moment the Bishop asked the man 
why he did not drive on. "I'm waiting 
for the Lord Bishop of New York, Sir," 
the proper person replied. "Well," said 
the Bishop. "I'm it. Drive on." 



Alfred Noyes was complaining about a 
harsh critic. "This critic's work," he 

in its 



said, "reminds me 



unsparing 



harshness of a dialogue between two 
villagers. 'There goes Bill Smith,' said 
the first villager. 'Bill ain't the same 
man he used to be.' 'No,' said the 
second villager, 'and he never was.' 
— Pittsburgh Chronicle-Telegraph. 




AGENTS i 



GUARANTEEI 
WATERPROOI 

KITCHEN 
Zl APRONS 

make big profits.^ Work all or span 
time. Made in five styles. Agent; 
furnished a complete set of sample 
without cost. Write today for ful 

mf particulars. 

I *~ MOSS APRON: COMPANY 

97 Pilot Bldg., Rochester, N.Y 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

150 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



It Tastes As Good As It Looks 



Tapioca Honey Souffle 

Put two cupfuls of milk, a tablespoonful of butter. one- 
eiKhth teaBpoonful of Bait and a tablespoonful of sugar 
into a saucepan; into this stir a cupful of MINUTE 
TAPIOCA, simmer on a low fire for ten minutes, stir- 
ring constantly. Remove from fire and add to it the well 
beaten yolks of four egfrs Mix well, flavor with a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla essence and fold in the stiffly beaten 
whites of four eggs, pour into a greased dish and bake 
in a moderate oven about thirty minutes. Serve with 
hot strained honey poured over it. 





This new dessert is delicious. Here you have the 
delicate flavor of Minute Tapioca combined with the 
rich taste of honey. Light and fluffy as a souffle should 
be, it is nutritious as well. This nutritive value is sup- 
plied by the Minute Tapioca. 

You should serve desserts and other dishes made with ' 
this long-time favorite very often. For Minute Tapioca 
is a great energy-building food. It is easily digested 
and is as good for you in warm weather as it is in cold. 
It may be used in so many different dishes that the 
family do not tire of it. It just gives a familiar savor to 
surprise desserts and old receipts alike. 

Minute Tapioca is always ready for use. It may be 
thoroughly cooked in fifteen minutes. It is made of 
genuine tapioca flour. Look on your grocer's shelf for 
the red and blue package with the Minute M?.n 

Send for the New Minute Cook Book, which gives many receipts 
for Minute Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. Free upon request. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY 
109 East Main Street Orange, Mass. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

151 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cra wford 

^y 1?s* n one* as 



Crawford combination ranges are 
really two ranges in one — a coal 
range of generous proportions, and a 
convenient gas range. 

The coal range has a roomy oven, 
and the Crawford single -damper 
which assures the correct degree of 
oven temperature at all times. 
Instead of a clumsy, untidy ash pan 
there are interchangeable coal and 
ash hods — one trip serves to empty 
ashes and bring back coal. 

The gas stove has five burners — all 
so constructed that the heat is con- 
centrated directlv under the center of 
the kettle or pan — and a convenient 
oven with a new and improved fold- 
ing broiler. 

We have mentioned onlv a few of the 
many advantages which make the 
Crawford a constant pleasure to use. 
Any Crawford dealer will gladly tell 
you more about this most efficient 
range. 

Sold by Leading Dealers 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO. 

BOSTON, U. S. A. 



Makers of ^Highest 
Quality Ranges, 
Furnaces & Boilers 





Domestic Scientists Agree 

that special cake flour should be used 
for all cakes and pastries. Bread flours 
have too much gluten — a necessity for 
bread but a detriment to cake. Gluten 
is the tough, heavy part of the wheat. Most 
of this element is eliminated from 

ROXANE Cake Flour 

Roxane is just the softest, lightest part of 
the wheat. 60 pounds of premium soft Indiana 
winter wheat — the finest wheat grown — yield 
only I0| pounds of Roxane. All the rest is 
rejected. So Roxane makes wonderful cakes 
and pastries, finer, lighter, smoother. Your 
family will be prouder than ever of your skill if 
you use Roxane. 

If your dealer can't supply you, send his name 
and address. We will see that you are supplied. 

AKIN-ERSKINE MILLING CO. 

Makers of Roxane Cake and Roxane Pancake Flour 
Evansville, Ind. 



I think the syrup's 
thick enough" 



DON'T just think. In this year's canning. Know! 
Not merely the looks but the facts. Not merely 
how thick the syrup should be, for the different fruits. 
But when it is that thick. Easy ! With the 

Taylor 
Home Set 

The Sugar meter C$1,00 1 shows the thickness of 
the syrup in figures. The Taylor Recipe Book tells 
the right figures for different fruits. It's the only way 
to insure best results. Saves waste of sugar. 

And you get the correct temperature in boiling -with 
the Candy Thermometer ($1 .50j and the correct tem- 
perature in baking with the Oven Thermometer 
($1.75). 

Write for the three Taylor 
Recipe Books. Temperatures 
telling recipes for jellies, pre- 
serves, fruit canning — also 
breads, pastries, cakes, can- 
dies. 

Taylor Instrument Companies 

Rochester, N. Y. 

If your dealer can't supply 
the Taylor Home Set or will 
not order for you. mail $4.25 
(price of complete setj direct to 
us with dealer's name and it 
will be sent .you prepaid. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

152 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




MORTON'S 

Salt 



When It Rains 



it PQURs 



Now She Knows 
Why It Pours 

IT'S well worth while to study 
Morton's Salt through a magnify- 
ing glass! You'll see just why it pours. 

The clear, shining crystals are cubes, ex- 
actly alike. Of course they won't stick 
together, even when damp. When it rains 
it pours. 

The exact seasoning quality of Morton's 
prevents waste because the food tastes 
right. No powder in the can, no fault in 
the cooking. 

Notice the aluminum spout. Adjustable, con- 
venient and sanitary; an exclusive feature of 
Morton's Salt. 




Morton Salt Company 
80 E. Jackson Blvd., Chicago 



One of the "big little things" 
every woman can afford. 




£ RUNNiN' 



ALT 

lip 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

153 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



NBSH 




MADE IN A JIFFY 

A nourishing easily prepared food is what the average woman wants for her family during 
the Summer. 

Nesnah is such a food and can be served for breakfast with cereal or for luncheon. 

Then, too, it makes a delicate pudding, milk sherbet or delicious ice cream. 

Whenever or however it is served it is always a nourishing dish, as Nesnah improves even 
fresh wholesome milk. 

Nesnah Milk Sherbet is refreshing and economical; many say that it is better than the aver- 
age ice cream. 

Nesnah Ice Cream is easily made, the sugar and flavoring in just the right quantity is already 
in the Nesnah. Not much cream is required, and still a smooth, velvety ice cream can be had. 
This is partially due to the unique blending and our new ice cream recipe. 

RASPBERRY NESNAH MILK SHERBET 

2 quarts of milk 2 packages of Nesnah 

Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm (remove from stove), drop the Raspberry Nesnah into 
it and dissolve by stirring for one-half minute. Pour mixture into ice cream can and let it stand 
undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes until set; pack with ice and salt; freeze. 

One ten-cent package makes a quart. 

SIX PURE NATURAL FLAVORS 
Chocolate Raspberry Lemon 

Orange Almond Vanilla 

A postcard will bring you a sample package and a Nesnah Booklet. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, INC. 
The Junket Folks 

BOX 2507 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



Principles of Chemistry Applied to the Household 

AN ELEMENTARY TEXT BOOK 
By HANNAH TERESA ROWLEY, A.B., The Winsor School, Boston, Mass., 
and HELEN W. FARRELL, A. B., Bradford Academy, Haverhill, Mass. 
Cloth, 296 pages, 98 Illustrations, 55 Experiments, $1.25 net, postpaid $1.40 

This book contains a simple introduction to the principles that underlie the study of chemistry and an application of these 
principles to an elementary study of the chemistry of foods and cleaning. 

The authors are teachers of experience. Its preparation has extended through two years, and the work has been tested 
in class room and laboratory and has been found most successful in awakening interest, without sacrificing the scientific founda- 
tion that prevents such interestfrom being a mere momentary stimulation. 

The first twelve chapters will be found an excellent introduction in any college preparatory course, while the entire book 
is adapted to the needs of both boys and girls for courses in general chemistry. The book is a complete text and laboratory 
manual in one, and the sequence of thought made possible by this feature is a decided advantage. 

A Guide to Laundry Work mary d. chambers, bs., a.m. 

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents. 

This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry work. The description of every 
process is so clear that the pupil can readily follow it. The diagrams of folding clothes after ironing are very clear, detailed 
and numerous. The scientific side has not been neglected. The reason for every process is given. 

By MARY D. CHAMBERS, 
B.S., A.M. 

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system Valuable appendices. A 
series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 100 calorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables 
for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students. 

By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cooking in the Public Schools 
of Brookline, Mass. 
Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 

This book is designed for the use of teachers in the elementary schools, and also for use as a text book in such schools 
when a text book on cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty-seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full and 
complete course in cooking, besides outlining supplementary work. 

Send for Descriptive Circulars 

THE BOSTON COOKING -SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. | 

_ Buy advertised Goods — Do not_accept substitutes 

154 



Principles of Food Preparation By mar b y s d 

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaic 

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the in( 
series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 100 calorie portio 
for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and sii 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way 

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri- 
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an 
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums: 

CONDITIONS • Premiums are not &i ven with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
_ - to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly 
stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or is not paid as stated. 

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS 

Serve Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic; 
Coffee and Fruit Jelly; Pudding and other 
desserts with your initial letter raised on 
the top. Latest and daintiest novelty for 
the up-to-date hostess. To remove jelly 
take a needle and run it around inside of 
mould, then immerse in warm water; jelly 
will then come out in perfect condition. 

Be the first in your town to have these. 

You cannot purchase them at the stores. 





This shows the jelly turned from the mould 



This shows mould 
(upside down) 



Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75 cents. 



"PATTY IRONS 



»9 




As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky 

f>ates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv- 
ng hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables, 
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes 
securely packed in an attractive box with recipes 
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for 
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 



AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME 
AND EGGS 

Does the work 
quicker and bet- 
ter than it can 
be done in any 
other way. One 
will be sent post- 
paid to any 
present subscri- 
ber as a premium 
for securing and 
sending us one 
(1) new yearly 
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 




FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN 




Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents 

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN 







"^Bf'ww^j^s 



sent, postpaid for one (1) 

a«h r»rire 75 C6ntS for tWO 



Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one 
new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents for 
pans. 




HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD 

Imported, Round, 6 inch 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, 75 cents. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO, 



Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

155 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PREMIUMS 



Loose Bottom Aluminum Cake Pans. High grade, superior, 

practical in every way 




LOOSE BOTTOM 

ROUND 9 INCH 

LAYER CAKE PANS 

Two pans, prepaid, for one 
(1) new subscription. Cash 
price 75 cents for two pans. 




SPONGE CAKE PAN 

Eight inch, prepaid for two (2) 
new subscriptions. Cash price 
$1.50. 




Square 
8 inch Layer Cake Pans 

Two pans, prepaid, for one (1) 
new subscription. Cash price, 
$1.50 for 2 pans. 



TRIPLICATE SAUCEPAN 

Aluminum, detachable handle. Cooks three things at once, on one 
cover. Convenient and a fuel saver. 

Sent, prepaid, for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash price, $3.00. 





BUFFET SAUCE PAN 

Heavy CAST Aluminum 

Rubberoid handle. One quart size. A dis- 
tinctive and superior dish. Do not confuse this 
ware with the light weight spun utensils. Sent, 
prepaid, for (4) subscriptions. Cash price $3.00. 



COLONIAL 
RICE BOILER 



Heavy CAST Aluminum 

Two-quart size. Same make as at the! 
left. These are dishes to be proud of.i 
They will wear a lifetime. 

Sent, prepaid, for five (5) subscriptions.! 
Cash price, $3.75. 




COLONIAL TEA 
KETTLE 

Heavy CAST 
Aluminum 

With automatic lid. 
Same make as above. 
Five-quart size. This 

is a beautiful piece of 
ware. If you saw it you would not rest content 
till you had it. 

Sent, prepaid, for six (6) subscriptions. Cash 
price. $4.50. 




VEGETABLE CUTTERS 

Assorted shapes. Ordinarily 
sell for 10 cents to 15 cents each. 
Eight cutters — all different — 
prepaid, for one (1) new sub- 
scription. Cash price, 75 cents. 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

156 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



PREMIUMS 




Crisps made with these moulds 
representing Hearts, Diamonds, 
Clubs and Spades, are ideal for 
serving at card-party luncheons. 

The bottom of the center space 
is closed; in this can be served any 
creamed meat, oysters or vegeta- 
bles, garnished around the edges 
with parsley, radishes or olives. 

Another excellent way of using 
is to set the shell on a lettuce leaf 
and fill with salad; or fill the shell 
with an ice or ice cream and gar- 
nish with fruit. 

Sent, with recipes and direc- 
tions, postpaid, for two (2) new 
subscriptions. Cash Price $1.50. 




3 Pint Aluminum Sauce Pan 

First Class Heavy Spun Aluminum 

Sent, postpaid, as premium for one (1) new 
subscriber. Cash price 75c. 



3 Pint Aluminum Double Boiler 

A heavy, superior 
article. An absolute 
necessity in every 
kitchen. Sent, prepaid, as 
premium for two (2) new 
subscriptions. Cash Price 
$1.50. 




Patent Individual Charlotte Russe Moulds 

Can be used, not only in making charlotte russe, but for many other 
dishes. 

Wherever individual moulds are called for, you can use these. 

The moulds we offer are made by a patent process. They have no 
seams, no joints, no solder. They are as near perfection as can be had. 

A set of six (6) Patent Charlotte Russe Moulds will be sent postpaid 
for two (2) new subscriptions. Cash Price $1.50. 




GOLDEN ROD CAKE PAN 



i > ^-'^*w r -=!» r "ss:-^c 5 ^ 



For "Waldorf Triangles," "Golden Rod Cake," 
"Orange Slice Cake" and many other fancy cakes. 
Substantially made of the best tin. Two pans. Sent, 
postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75c 
for two pans. 



REMOVABLE RING MUFFIN PAN 

Made of best quality blued steel. Strong and durable. Size 
12 rings 2f inches diam. Pan 8j inches by 11 inches. Rings 
are removable, pan may be used for cake or candy making. 
Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 75c. 




rHE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

157 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PREMIUMS 




PASTRY BAG AND FOUR TUBES 

(Bag not shown in cut) 

A complete outfit. Practical in every way. Made 
especially for Bakers and Caterers. Eminently suit- 
able for home use. 

The set sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, 75 cents. 




THE A. M. C. 
ORNAMENTER 

Rubber pastry bag and 
twelve brass tubes, assorted 
designs, for cake decorat- 
ing. This set is for fine 
work, while the set des 
scribed above is for more 
general use. Packed in a 
wooden box, prepaid, for 

two (2) new subscriptions. 
Cash price, $1.50 




"RAPIDE" 
TEA INFUSER 

Economic, clean and con 
venient. Sent, prepaid, fo 
one (1), subscription. Caslj 
price, 75 cents. 



CAKE ORNAMENTING SYRINGE 

For the finest cake decorating. Twelve German 
silver tubes, fancy designs. Sent, prepaid, for four (4) 
new subscriptions, Cash price, $3.00. 





The only reliable and sure way to make Candy, 
Boiled Frosting, etc., is to use a 

THERMOM ETEH 

Here is just the one you need. Made! 
especially for the purpose by one of thei 
largest and best manufacturers in the! 
country. Sent, postpaid, for two (2) 
new subscriptions. Cash price, $1.50. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 
OUTFIT 

Thermometer, dipping wire, moulds, and 
most of all, a book written by a professional 
and practical candy maker for home use. Sent, 
prepaid for four (4) new subscriptions. Cash 
price, $3.00. 




FRUIT CUTTER 




Cores and splits apples, pears and 
quinces into six pieces with one opera- 
tion. Silver plated, turned wooden 
tray. Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

158 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



PREMIUMS 



The Empire Grape Fruit and Orange Knife 




Is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered, 
curved just to the right angle and ground to a very keen 
edge, will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly 
around the edge and divide the fruit into segments ready 
for eating. The feature of the blade is the round end, 
which prevents cutting through the outer skin. A grape 
fruit knife is a necessity, as grape fruit are growing so 
rapidly in popularity as a breakfast fruit. Sent, post- 
paid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash Price 50 cents. 



Empire Kitchen Knives 




Highly polished rubberoid finished 
handles. 

These knives have blades forged from 
the finest cutlery steel, highly tempered 
and ground to a very keen edge. These 
Knives will cut. Two knives, as shown 
above, sent, prepaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash Price 50 cents. 




A SET OF 24 TINS 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash Price, 75 cents. 

FRENCH 
BUTTER CURLER 

Unique and Convenient 

The easiest way to serve butter. 
Full directions with each curler. 

Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new sub- 
scription. • Cash Price, 75 cents. 



PRINCESS PATTY TINS 

FOR BROWNIES OR 
OTHER SMALL CAKES 

BROWNIES 

1 Egg, well beaten 
1 cup of Flour 
1 cup of Nuts, Pecan or 
Walnuts 

Mix in the usual manner, but without separating 
the egg. Bake in small, fancy shaped tins. Press 
half a nut meat into the top of each cake. 



J cup of Butter 
^ cup of Sugar 
J cup of Molasses 
(dark) 





MAGIC 
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for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin; chemically 
treated and hygienic; recommended by leading 
teachers of cooking. Saves flour, time and patience. 
Sent, postpaid, for one (1) new subscription. Cash 
Price, 75 cents. 




ROTARY 

MINCING 

KNIFE 



Nickel plated. Ten revolving cutters. Effect- 
ually chops parsley, mint, onions, vegetables, 
etc., and the shield frees the knives from the 
materials being cut. 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash Price 75 cents. 




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AMERICAN COOKERY 





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for baby's bottles for the same reasons that 
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and his soft, pink skin — because it is as pure and 
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ADVERTISEMENTS 





Cream 




tinted by K. R. Wireman for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1012 by Cream of Wheat Co. 

CREAM OF WHEAT FOR "SAIL" 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXIV OCTOBER, 1919 No. 3 



CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER 

PAGE 

THE CHARM OF THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY. 111. 

Mary H. Northend 171 

ONE SUMMER DAY Dorothy Habersham 176 

PEPPS' PITILESS PROSPERITY Ladd Plumley 177 

WHY IS FRENCH COOKERY EXTOLLED? . . . Kurt Heppe 181 

SOMETHING NEW FOR THE HALLOWEEN PARTY 

Alice Urquhart Fewell 184 

LESSONS IN FOOD AND COOKERY — THE APPLE 

Anna Barrows 186 

DISHWASHING IN LITERATURE AND ELSEWHERE 

Mrs. G. L. Washburn 188 

EDITORIALS 190 

SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half- 
tone engravings of prepared dishes) 

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 193 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN OCTOBER 202 

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS . . . Wealtha A. Wilson 203 

THE ART OF THE CHOPPING-BOWL . . F. M. Christiansen 204 

SAFE AND SANE CANNING AND PRESERVING 

Emma Gary Wallace 205 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 207 

Made at Butchering Time — Improving Butter Beans — Cider 
Apple-Butter without Cider — Fig Preserves — The Acid Test. 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 210 

THE SILVER LINING 218 

MISCELLANEOUS 226 




$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy Q% 

Foreign postage 40c additional 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright, 1919, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

162 




ADVERTISEMENTS 



Jf you could cook and never make mistakes, 

And rid yourself of troubles that oppress; 
Jf you could bake breads, puddings, pies and cakes 

To satisfy — and make your outlay less; 
Jf you could learn the secret of judicious buying 

And save the dollars that you otherwise would spend, 
Jf you could win your way by simply trying — 

What would you give to further such an end ? 

$2.50 
for Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book ? 

It would be well worth it. A big book of 731 pages, 1500 original recipes, covering 
every possible phase and condition of cookery. Each recipe has been tested and proved 
by Mrs. Rorer. Valuable and easily-understood directions are also given for buying, pre- 
paring, cooking and serving every kind of food. 

The illustrations are made an important feature. They are useful and helpful. One 
set of pictures shows how to dress a table for a course dinner ; another set how to carve 
meats, poultry, fish and game ; and many others illustrate numerous methods and dishes 

in the text. 

Over 700 Pages Cloth Bound, $2.50 By Mail, $2.70 



SOME MORE OF MRS. RORER'S BOOKS 



VEGETABLE COOKERY AND MEAT SUB- 
STITUTES 

This book goes into the whole subject of vege- 
table cookery. A bewildering array of choice 
and novel recipes. Also substitutes for meat. 
Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65 

CANNING AND PRESERVING 

Tells how to can and preserve fruits and vege- 
tables; Marmalades, Jams, Fruit Butters and 
Jellies, Syrups, Catsups; Drying, Pickling, etc. 
Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 

ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES, ETC. 

Philadelphia and Neapolitan Ice Creams, Water 
Ices, Frozen Puddings and Fruits, Sherbets, 
Sorbets, Sauces, etc. 

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 

HOME CANDY MAKING 

Here is the book that is needed in the home, if 

there is the desire for good, wholesome candy. 

Cloth, 75-cts. ; by mail, 80 cts. 



KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY 

A new-plan cook book. Its very simplicity will 
commend it to housewives for it saves time and 
worry. 

Cloth, $1.25; by mail, $1.40 

CAKES, ICINGS AND FILLINGS 

Contains a large number of enticing and valu- 
able recipes for cakes of all sorts and condi- 
tions. No fear of results. Follow directions 
and your cake is bound to come out right. 

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 

DAINTIES 

Contains Appetizers, Canapes, Vegetable and 
Fruit Cocktails, Cakes, Candies, Creamed 
Fruits, Desserts, Frozen Puddings, etc. 

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 

BREAD AND BREAD MAKING 

Bread, biscuits, buns, rolls, puffs, quick breads, 
steamed breads; everything in bread. 

Cloth, 75 cts. ; by mail, 80 cts. 



For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia 



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163 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



INDEX FOR OCTOBER 



Apple, The ...... 

Art of the Chopping-Bowl, The . 
Charm of the Beacon Hill Doorway, The 
Dishwashing in Literature and Elsewhere 
Editorials ...... 

Home Ideas and Economies 

Lessons in Food and Cookery — ■ The Apple 

Menus ...... 

Miscellaneous ..... 

One Summer Day .... 

Pepps' Pitiless Prosperity 

Safe and Sane Canning and Preserving 

Silver Lining, The .... 

Something New for the Halloween Party 
Why is French Cookery Extolled? 



* 



PAGE 
186 

204 
171 
188 
190 
207 
186 
202, 203 
226 
176 
177 
205 
218 
184 
181 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



Apple Charlotte. 111. 

Apple Slump .... 

Apples, Ginger Baked. 111. 

Cake, Delicate, with Fudge Frosting. 111. 

Cake, Fudge, with Fruit and Marshmallow 

Filling ..... 

Cake, Spice ..... 
Carrot Pie ..... 
Carrot Pudding .... 
Cream, Ginger .... 
Dumplings, Onion, with Potato Crust. Ill 
Firmety ..... 

Fruit Whip, Proportions for . 
Icing, Chocolate .... 



197 Marmalade, "Penrod and Sam" 
201 Marmalade, "Torchy" . 

196 Oysters a la Mornay. 111. 

198 Paste, Potato, for Onion Dumplings, Mea 

and Vegetable Pies 

199 Pie, Carrot . _ '. 

200 Pie, Raisin, with Meringue 

201 Pie, Veal-and-Ham 
201 Potatoes a l'Otero. 111. 

197 Pudding, Carrot . 
196 Sauce, Mornay 
194 Steak, Yankee Boy, with Brussels Sprouts 

198 111 

200 Whips, Uncooked Fruit. 111. . 



201 
201 
195 

196 
201 
197 
193 
194 
201 
195 

194 
198 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



Brandy Substitute for Fruit Cake and Plum 

Pudding ..... 
Cake, Angel ..... 
Cake, Cocoa, with Baking Powder 
Cake, Fruit, without Preservatives 
Cake, Honevmoon 



214 
212 
210 
214 
212 



Cake, Sunshine 

Carrots, Pickled 

Filling for Honeymoon Cake 

Pudding, Plum 

Salad, Ginger Ale 



212 
216 
214 
214 
210 



We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for 
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make 
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a 
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BOSTON, MASS. 



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164 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Four Invaluable Cook Books 



New Edition 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

COOK BOOK 

By 

FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

FOR many years the acknowledged leader of all cook books, this new 1919 edition 
contains, in addition to its fund of general information, 2,117 recipes; all of which 
have been tested at Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking-School; together with additional 
chapters on the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on the Drying of Fruits and Vege- 
tables, and on Food Values. With over 133 illustrations. 600 pages. $2.25 net. 




"»*tt 

a 



CookB^ 







KITCHENETTE COOKERY 

By ANNA MERRITT EAST 

Formerly New Housekeeping Editor, 
" The Ladies' Home Journal." 

THE arrangement of utensils and supplies in 
the tiny kitchenette of a modern apartment, 
and the menus and recipes to be used, are con- 
tained in this up-to-date cook book. This book 
not only tells what to cook in a kitchenette and 
how to cook it, but it also takes up the more 
difficult problem, in these days of high prices, of 
what to buy when cooking for one or two 
persons. 

"Miss East presents a book which will be of 
great value to all city dwellers in these days, when 
the elimination of waste in food is one of the 
greatest problems we face." — New York Sun. 

With 32 pages of illustrations. $1.25 net 



THE CANDY COOK BOOK 

By ALICE BRADLEY 

Principal of 
Miss Farmers School of Cookery 

THE recipes in " The Candy Cook Book " are 
wholesome, practical, and the directions are 
so clear that the veriest amateur may be confi- 
dent of obtaining toothsome results. 

These three hundred recipes include uncooked 
candies, fudges, chocolates, various fondants for 
centers, caramels, hard and pulled candies, glaces, 
meringues and macaroons, crystallized fruits, 
dried nuts and fruits, popcorn candies, decorated 
candies, favors, etc. In fact every sort of candy 
that can be made at home without special ma- 
chinery is here described. 

Illustrated. $1.25 net 



CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY MAKING 

By JANET McKENZIE HILL 

Author of " Cooking for Two," " The Book of Entrees," " Salads, Sandwiches and 
Chafing Dish Dainties," " The Up-to-Date Waitress." 

IN this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented by a teacher 
of cookery, and an experienced housekeeper, with garden vegetables and fruits in abundance at 
her command. It may be said to contain the latest word on the subject, and is submitted to house- 
keepers everywhere as a thoroughly reliable and trustworthy guide in tne latest and best ways of 
storing and preserving fruits and vegetables. 

Recommended by the American Library Association: — "Aims to present the latest ideas on the 
subject, using the methods found to be simplest and shortest by the experiments of the U. S. De- 
partment of Agriculture, state universities and cooking experts." 

Illustrated from photographs. 12mo., Cloth. $1.25 net. 

LITTLE, BROWN & COMPANY, Publishers, Boston 



a 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

165 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent postpaid 
upon receipt of price. 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for quota- 
tion on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order to us 
saves effort and express charges. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 
Fletcher $1. 

A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers . 

American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1. 

American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef, 
veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted on 
cloth and rollers 10. 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup. . . . 1. 

Art and Economy in Home Decorations. 
Priestman 1. 

Art of Entertaining. Madame Merri. . . 1. 

Art of Home Candy- Making (with ther- 
mometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3. 

Art of Right Living. Richards 

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband. 
Weaver and LeCron 1 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 
Home. H. W. Conn 

Better Meals for Less Money. Greene 

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill . . . 

Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln . . 

Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. 
Fannie M. Farmer 2 

Bread and Bread-Making. Mrs. Rorer. 

Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott 

Business, The, of the Household. Taber 2 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 1 

Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 
King 

Cakes, Pastry and Dessert Dishes. Janet 
^ M. Hill 

Candies and Bonbons. Neil 

Candy Cook Book. Alice Bradley 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer . . 

Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making. 
^ Hill 

Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 
Marion H. Neil 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 
Holt, M.D 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln 

Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 



25 
75 
50 



00 
00 

00 
00 

00 
50 

50 

20 
35 
60 
00 

25 
75 
50 
50 
00 



1.00 



60 
25 
25 
00 



1.25 



1.25 



1. 



1. 



00 
50 
25 

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland 2.00 

25 
00 



Chafing-Dish Possibilities. Farmer 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn . 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. 

Richards and Elliot 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 2.00 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 2.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 

Clothing for Women. L. I. Baldt 2.50 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill. . . .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . 1.75 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 



Cost of Shelter. Richards $1.00 

Course in Household Arts. Sister 

Loretto B. Duff 1.10 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 1.00 

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Thompson 1.25 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3.00 

Domestic Art in Women's Education. 

Cooley 1.40 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon... 2.00 
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 1.00 

Easy Entertaining. Benton 1.25 

Economical Cookery. Marion Harris 

Neil 1.75 

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid to 

Cooking. Robertson 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Elements of the Theory and Practice of 

Cookery. Williams and Fisher 1.20 

Encyclopaedia of Foods and Beverages. 10.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. Learned 1.50 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 75 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.... 1.50 
Every Woman's Canning Book. Hughes .75 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.25 

Feeding the Family. Rose 2.10 

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning : 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. Fannie M. Farmer 2.00 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thompson 1.35 

Food and Flavor. Finck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.20 

Food and Nutrition. Bevier and Ushir 1.00 

Food Products. Sherman 2.40 

Food and Sanitation. Forester and 

Wigley 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 4 



Food for the Worker. Stern and Spitz. 

Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs 

Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards 

Food Study. Wellman 

Food Values. Locke 

Franco-American Cookery Book. Deliee 

Fuels of the Household. Marian White 

Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for 

Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 



.00 
.00 

.75 

00 
10 
.30 
50 
75 
00 

00 
00 



. 



Buv advertised Goods 



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166 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Handbook for Home Economics. Flagg $0.75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town and 

Country. Florence H. Hall 1.50 

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A. 

Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M.D 1-50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd. . . .60 
Home and Community Hygiene. 

Broadhurst 2.50 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Furnishings, Practical and Artis- 
tic. Kellogg 1-75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.10 

Home Problems from a New Standpoint 1.00 
Home Science and Cook Book. Anna 

Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French.. 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75 

House Furnishing and Decoration. 

McClure and Eberlein 1.50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Housewifery. Balderston 2.50 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan . . . 2.40 
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50 
Household Engineering. Christine Fred- 
erick 2.00 

Household Physics. Alfred M. Sutler. . 1.30 

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25 

Housekeeper's Handy Book. Baxter. . 1.00 
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. Neil 1.25 
How to Cook for the Sick and Convales- 
cent. H. V. S. Sachse 1.50 

How to Feed Children. Hogan 1.00 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. Rorer .75 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer 1.00 

I Go a Marketing. Sowle 1.75 

Institution Recipes. Emma Smedley.. 3.00 

Interior Decorations. Parsons 4.00 

International Cook Book. Filippini. . . . 1.50 
Key to Simple Cookery. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.25 

King's Caroline Cook Book 1.50 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Kitchenette Cookery. Anna M. East. . . 1.25 
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. Rose 1.10 
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.50 

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 75 

Marketing and Housework Manual. 

S. Agnes Donham 1.75 

Mrs. Allen's Cook Book. Ida C. Bailey 

Allen 2.00 

More Recipes for Fifty. Smith 1.50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 1.00 

New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer. ..... 2.00 

New Hostess of Today. Larned 1.50 

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer 1.00 



Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 

Isabels and Robb $2.00 

Nutrition of a Household. Brewster. . 1.00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3.00 

Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

Philadelphia Cook Book. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.50 
Planning and Furnishing the House. 

Quinn 1.00 

Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 3.00 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 6.00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Patte 2.00 

Practical Food Economy. Alice Gitchell 

Kirk 1.35 

Practical Points in Nursing. Emily A. 

M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

Allington 1.50 

Principles of Chemistry Applied to the 

Household. Rowley and Farrell 1.25 

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary 

D. Chambers 1.00 

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan 1.75 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

Lowe Smith 1.50 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.60 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards 60 

School Feeding. Bryant 1.50 

Selection and Preparation of Food. 

Brevier and Meter 75 

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman. . 1.50 
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.20 
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food 

Products. Bailey 1.60 

Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn 50 

Successful Canning. Powell 2.50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Herrick 1.35 

Table Service. Allen 1.35 

Textiles. Woolman and McGowan 2.00 

The Chinese Cook Book. Shin Wong 

Chan 1.50 

The Housekeeper's Apple Book. L. G. 

Mackay 1.00 

The New Housekeeping. Christine Fred- 
erick 1.25 

The Party Book. Fales and Xorthend. . 2.50 

The Story of Textiles 3.00 

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.60 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes and How to Help 

Him 1.00 

True Food Values. Birge 75 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Sub- 
stitutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.75 

Women and Economics. Charlotte Per- 
kins Stetson 1.50 



Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

167 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



jt{aAe mowi 




AxrLtrL^ 



^tou will get through 
sooner, have a cleaner 
house, and he less tired 
if you use Old Dutch 







Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

168 



The Season's End 

Closed the summer byways 

To the straying feet, 
Only dreams may wander, love, 

Where the hours were sweet — 
Ah, the golden moments, 

Gold of dreams they were, 
Scattered where the flowers 

Wooed the loiterer! 



Silent are the thickets; 

In the twilight hush, 
We shall hear no more, love, 

The fluting of the thrush — 
Ah, the voiceless silence, 

How it brings again 
Lilt as if the fairies 

Sang within the glen! 

Closed the summer byways, 

Silence in the vale, 
On the hills the fires, love, 

Of the autumn pale — 
Ah, the joy of knowing 

In our hearts we keep 
Blooms that winter's sickle 

Nevermore shall reap! 

— Arthur Wallace Peach. 



m 



169 




THE SQUARE PORCH — A 
FINE EXAMPLE OF CO- 
LONIAL DOORWAY 
I - 



A 



merican 



Cook 



ery 



VOL. XXIV 



OCTOBER 



No. 3 



The Charm of the Beacon Hill Doorway 

By Mary H. Northend 



WE love to linger over the roman- 
tic storv connected with Beacon 
Hill, recalling the time when 
it was the heart of military, social and 
literary life. In the earliest days, when 
war was rife, the military pitched their 
tents on this goodly eminence, and their 
sentries paced up and down, ever 
watchful over land and sea, to announce 
the approach of any invading foe. 
Crowning the top of the Hill was a high 
mast, surmounted by a beacon (from 
which it took its name). This was first 
erected in 1634, and was used extensively 
until after the Revolution. When fired, 
it could be seen at a great distance 
inland. 

Originally Beacon Hill comprised over 
one hundred acres, and was used prin- 
cipally for the pasturing of cattle. 
Small cedars and native shrubbery grew 
along its sides, broken here and there 
by cow-paths, through which the wan- 
dering herds ranged unmolested. It 
abounded with fine springs, which are 
mentioned in all the early records. 
While all of these have been filled in, 
after a heavy rain they can be seen 
bubbling up through the surface. 

Nestled on the land side is a tract of 
land, now known as the Public Garden, 
laid out with charming landscape effects, 
into which have been introduced beauti- 
ful flower plots and smooth velvety 
lawns. Years ago, rope walks covered 
this space, reaching to the water that 
washed Charles Street. Beyond, an 
extension of these grounds, is the Com- 
mon, the training field of the early 
days, and used also as a cow-pasture. 



John Hancock, owner of the entire 
Hill, but subject to protracted litiga- 
tion during the twenty-five years of 
his residence there, always pastured 
his cows on the Common. Many a 
scene, romantic, historic and tragic, is 
connected with this public property, for 
from here the troops embarked in 
silence for the memorable battle of 
Lexington. On the Common the forces 
were also arrayed that engaged at 
Bunker Hill, and many a tall fellow 
heard the drums beat the rappel for 
the last time, as he shouldered his 
firelock and fell in the ranks on that 
eventful morning. 




THE RECEDED DOORWAY 



171 



172 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



When Lord Harry was in Boston, 
encamped here, he wrote that "Our 
camp is pitched in an exceedingly 
pleasant situation on a large common 
used for the purpose of grazing cows, 
and ofttimes they attempt to force 
their way into their old pasture, 
where the richest herbage I have ever 
seen, abounds. One of them impaled 
herself on a firelock, going off with the 
bayonet, sticking in her side." 

Beacon Hill is now divided into a series 
of straight streets, all of which are lined 
with charming homes, some dating back 
to late eighteenth and early nineteenth 
century. The most prominent of these 
thoroughfares, Beacon Street, at first 
lacked the aristocratic designation of 
today, for it was styled the "Lane to the 
Almshouse," which lay near the foot of 
the Hill. 

Chestnut and Mt. Vernon run parallel 
with Beacon, cutting across to the river, 
and, though lacking uniformity, both 
make a charming picture, for they are 
English enough to be a part of London, 
yet have all the native dignity found in 




ANOTHER FORM OF RECEDED DOORWAY 



Salem. Here men and women of re- 
finement and culture have founded their 
homes, including, in later days, Julia 
Ward Howe, Charles Francis Adams, 
Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, Thomas Bailey 
Aldrich, Oliver Wendell Holmes, while 
for many years William Clafflin, Governor 
of Massachusetts, made it his home. 
Much of its literary atmosphere comes 
from the fact that the Quaker poet, 
Whittier, always stayed here when visit- 
ing Boston. 

Among the many fine residences one is 
impressed by the extreme simplicity and 
often austerity connected with the ex- 
terior of the houses. 

William Blackstone Epes, the first 
settler on the peninsula, in 1626, chose 
the southwest slope of the Hill for his 
residence, and a few years later it was 
agreed that he should have fifty acres of 
land set out for him to enjoy. 

There were no brick sidewalks in 
those days, except in a part of the main 
streets, all of which were paved with 
pebbles, and except when driven to one 
side by carts and carriages, everybody 
walked in the middle of the road, where 
it was smoothest — ■ there were prac- 
tically no sidewalks until after the Revo- 
lution. 

During the twenty years that elapsed 
between 1770 and 1790, when the streets 
were red with blood, Beacon Hill com- 
placently overlooked the riotous scenes, 
witnessing many stirring events, among 
which was the reckless and murderous 
raid on Lexington and Concord. 

It was about that time that cocked 
hats, wigs and red coats were usually 
worn by the gentlemen, and except for 
American military men, boots were 
rarely seen. During the winter months 
coats were made warm and stiffened with 
buckram, coming to the knees in front. 
Even the boys wore wigs and cocked 
hats until about 1790, and the toilettes 
of the ladies were very elaborate. Their 
hair was arranged on crape cushions, 
standing up so high that they were fre- 
quently forced to dress it the day before 



THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY 



in 



a party, sleeping in easy chairs to keep it 
in good condition. 

Elisha Cook, who married Elizabeth, 
the daughter of Governor Leverett, and 
contemporary of Samuel Eliot, grand- 
father of Ex-President Eliot of Harvard, a 
very rich merchant, erected a magnificent 
residence on the corner of Beacon and 
Tremont Streets, from which he was 
forced to flee in 1776 to seek refuge with 
his daughter in Haverhill. He was a 
true gentleman of the old school, dressing 
until his death in the costume of the 
early days, wearing cocked hat, ruffled 
shirt and small clothes, but never coat 
or overcoat. Even Copley, the artist, 
whose home was on the Hill, always ap- 
peared on the streets in a cloth coat of fine 
maroon ornamented with gilt buttons. 

Among the first houses built on the 
Hill was a handsome stone mansion 
erected by Thomas Hancock, a wealthy 
Boston merchant, uncle of our Revolu- 
tionary hero. This was built in 1737, 
the estate originally bounding on Beacon, 
Mt. Vernon and Joy Streets, including the 
grounds on which the State House is now 
built. At the back of the house the 
first nursery in the city came into exist- 
ence. The house was bequeathed to his 
nephew, the Governor, by his aunt, Lydia 
Hancock, and remained for a long time a 
unique setting for the Common. The 
house was built of stone, while gardens 
and orchards surrounded the princely 
mansion, but it was eventually torn down 
on account of the site being so valuable. 

The following description has been 
left by an inmate of the Hancock house: 

"As you entered the Governor's man- 
sion, to the right was the drawing or 
reception room, with furniture of bird's- 
eye maple covered with red damask. 
Out of this opened the dining room hall 
referred to, in which Hancock gave the 
famous breakfast to Admiral D'Estaing 
and his officers. Opposite this was a 
smaller apartment, the usual dining 
hall of the family; next adjoining were 
the china room and offices with coach 
house and barn behind. At the left of 




No. 66 MOUNT VERNON STREET 

the entrance was a second saloon, or 
family drawing room, the walls covered 
with crimson paper. The upper and 
lower halls were hung with pictures of 
game, hunting scenes, and other sub- 
jects. Passing through this hall, an- 
other flight of steps led through the 
garden to a small summerhouse close to 
Mt. Vernon Street. The grounds were 
laid out in ornamental flower beds 
bordered with box; box trees of large 
size, with a great variety of fruit, among 
which were several immense mulberry 
trees, dotted the garden." 

In this house Hancock entertained 
D'Estaing in 1778, Lafayette in 1781, 
and Washington in 1789, besides many 
other noted men. He was noted for his. 
princely hospitality, and when the French 
officers were in Boston it is said that 
about forty dined with him every day. 
On one occasion an unusual number ap- 
peared to partake of his viands, when, 
in the language of Madame Hancock, 
"the common was bedizened with lace." 
The cooks were driven to despair, and 
the exigency was met by milking the 



174 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cows pastured on the Common. Whether 
this was agreeable to the various owners 
or not, we do not know. 

At the time of the Battle of Lexington 
this house was pillaged by soldiers, who 
broke down and mutilated the fence, 
until General Gage sent Percy to occupy 
it. About this time an order was re- 
ceived from the King for Hancock's 
apprehension, and a second one to hang 
him, but on account of his popularity he 
escaped. 

When he was dying, he called an old 
friend and dictated to him the minutes 
of his will, in which he expressly gave 
his mansion house to the Commonwealth, 
but death intervened before his inten- 
tion could be carried out. It was pur- 
chased from his heirs, years later, for 
the site of the State House. 

Beacon Hill is still old and full of 
flavor, although a great deal that was 
once charming and notable has been 
swept away by the growth of population. 

The home of Prescott, the eminent 
historian, was at 55 Beacon Street, and 
still stands today. A deeper interest 




STEPS LEAD TO THIS DOORWAY 



attaches to the labors of this giftec 
author on account of his partial blindness 
caused by an injury to his eye while ai 
Harvard. All efforts to improve hi; 
sight were of no avail, and he performec 
his work with the aid of an amanuensis 
He was a grandson of the old soldier o: 
Louisburg and Bunker Hill, and by i 
coincidence married a granddaughter o; 
Captain Linzee, who commanded the 
Falcon at the battle just named. 

What the society of Beacon Hill was 
in the last century may be gathered from 
the testimony of a keen observer of thai 
period. 

Count Segur says that "Boston affords 
a proof that democracy and luxury arc 
not incompatible, for in no part of the 
United States is so much comfort or a 
more agreeable society to be found 
Europe does not offer, to our admiration 
women adorned with greater beauty 
elegance, education or more brillianl 
accomplishments than the ladies here.' 
M. de Chastellus, a gallant Frenchman 
also pays suitable acknowledgments tc 
the ladies of Beacon Hill, while both men 
unite in eulogy of Adams, Hancock, Dr. 
Cooper and other leading spirits whom it 
was their good fortune to meet. 

Lafayette during his visit to Boston 
was intimately connected with this part 
of the city, for he was the guest of Samuel 
Dexter, one of the greatest lawyers 
Massachusetts has ever seen, and who, 
Judge Story said, "never descended to 
finesse or cunning before a Jury." 
Christopher Gore, while Governor of 
Massachusetts, also lived at this same 
house, on the corner of Beacon and 
Park Streets. 

To the lover of fine architecture there 
are no better representatives of door- 
ways than those that are found on 
Beacon Hill, for they vary in type from 
Colonial to Twentieth Century. There 
are wooden doorways with elliptical fan- 
lights and leaded side lights, framed by 
Doric and Corinthian pilasters, toppec 
by doorheads, in which carved decora- 
tions give a characteristic touch, while 



THE BEACON HILL DOORWAY 



175 



let-in panels at the lower part of the 
sides give a more solid and substantial 
look, and increase the apparent breadth 
of the doorway, foretelling a cheerful 
interior. They all give a sense of re- 
serve and distinction that is interesting, 
and carry us back to the days when our 
forefathers settled in this country after 
a long and tempestuous voyage across 
the seas. 

Brick seems to be the prevailing ma- 
terial used for these old houses, the red 
of the brick combining effectively with 
the green of the blinds, and the old green 
entrance door, typical of the early 
nineteenth century, bull's-eye being often 
used in the upper panels. 

The mansion of the late David Sears 
commands attention; it is now being 
used as a club-house. It is built on the 
site of the home of John S. Copley, who 
owned one of the largest estates on the 
Hill. During his residence in Boston he 
married the daughter of Richard Clark, 
a rich merchant, and one of the obnoxious 
tea consignees who fell into disgrace at the 
time the tea was all "pitched" into 
Boston Harbor. In the old two-story 
house that formerly stood here he painted 
some of his finest works, probably the 
portraits of Hancock and Adams. While 
living in London, he was offered by a 
speculator what seemed a fabulous sum 
for the place, but he learned after he 
had sold it that it was worth twenty times 
the amount he received for it, and it is 
said this hastened his death. 

The first house built of brick, and also 
under the Copley title, was that of John 
Phillips, who was afterwards the first 
Mayor of Boston; this was built in 1804. 
Phillips did much to improve a large por- 
tion of the Hill at the commencement of 
the nineteenth century. His distinguished 
son, Wendell Phillips, was born in this 
house in 1811, and lived there until his 
father's death in 1823. After the house 
was sold, Thomas Winthrop, Lieutenant 
Governor of Massachusetts, resided here, 
but his family increased so rapidly that 
he was enforced to enlarge his residence, 




No. 56 BEACON STREET 

and changed the location of the front 
door from Beacon to Walnut Street. 
This prominent landmark is still found 
on Beacon Hill. 

Near the State House, which was built 
by Bulfinch, lived Dr. Joy, who did 
much to build up that part of the city. 
His wife was much averse to living "so 
far out of town"; as theirs was but the 
fourth house at the time, she exacted a 
promise from the Doctor to return to the 
residential section at no distant day. 

Many of these old-time houses stood 
close to the sidewalk, while others were set 
back from the street, and were approached 
by a flight of steps. Such was the man- 
sion of the Colonel Lieutenant Governor 
Phillips, whose estate was one of the most 
popular, during the time of his residency. 
It was shaded by magnificent trees, 
which were cut down by the British and 
used as fuel. 

In the early days this was a favorite 
resort for the citizens, as the view was 
considered equal to anything found 
across the seas. These same sights are 
visible today, but must be viewed 



176 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



his estate on the Hill was known as 
Sewall Elm Pasture. He married Eliza, 
daughter of John Hull, the celebrated 
mintmaster, who it is said gave her as her 
wedding portion her weight in pine tree 
shillings; so the story goes, in order to get 
full payment, she weighted down her 
pockets with flat-irons. 

But it is not noted men and women, 
but unique doorways with which this 
article is particularly concerned. When 
you consider that for a hundred years 
after its settlement Boston was little 
more than a straggling town, it seems 
almost incredible that today it should 
be so wonderfully prolific in fascinating 
doorways, which break the monotony 
of street scenes as you view them from 
the sidewalk. 

While Colonial architecture may be 

considered the distinguishing feature of 

these structures, there is little similarity 

filigree of leaded glass in them, and it is this fact that causes 

from the cupola above the dome of you to linger, as you saunter along this 

the State House. famous part of Boston familiarly known 

Chief Justice Samuel Sewall was a man as "Beacon Hill," and view these ex- 

of great importance in the Colony, and amples of exceptional workmanship. 




One Summer Day 

As I went through the summer wood 
Where two paths met an old man stood, 
"Greet you, greet you, and good-day, 
How do you fare and what's your way?" 

I paused awhile in the summer wood, 
And told the old man what he would; 
"Greet you, greet you, and good-day, 
I'll go with you along the way." 

At edge of night and the summer wood 

The old man vanished, the elf-king stood; 

"Greet you, greet you, and good luck, 

You've shared your bread this day with Puck!" 

Since that day in the summer wood, 
Wherever I go my luck holds good; 
Greet you, greet you, and good-day, 
I hope you meet with him some day! 

— Dorothy Habersham. 



Pepps' Pitiless Prosperity 



By Ladd Plumley 



THERE were figures near a door- 
way, and as he came opposite, 
Mr. Pepps was seized. 

"Ye'll be coming wid us!" exclaimed 
one of the captors. "Ye're to be taken 
to a conference." 

Mr. Pepps recognized a voice which 
that evening had thrown a verbal brick 
to the platform where he was lecturing. 

After Mr. Pepps retired from business, 
if it be truthful to say he ever retired, the 
financier gloried in giving advice con- 
cerning a subject he knew thoroughly. 

He began life as an economist — in 
a contributed cradle and on philan- 
thropic milk. The institution discarded 
him in his 'teens with a five dollar bill, 
and never afterward did he own less than 
five dollars. This evening his hearers 
expected to hear how to eat beef five 
times a week, — what they got was how to 
do without much of anything at any 
time. The lecturer pulled off his gar- 
ment of reserve and turned it wrongside 
out. He told how, in his youthful days, 
he cut his own hair, how he washed his 
handkerchiefs, saving the soapy water for 
next time. He suggested lengthening 
the life of socks by wearing two pairs at 
once; he illustrated folding a frayed 
necktie so as to present a neat appearance; 
he reveled in soup made of sour milk. 
And it was then that the voice he recog- 
nized had interrupted, "But yez put 
solid food in yer belly, 'cause ye're living 
yet!" 

Amid the ash cans Mr. Pepps blustered, 
but a second man, who threw out a sug- 
gestion of whiskey, seized his other arm, 
and he was hustled up the steps of one 
of those small houses which are found 
to the east of the city. The door was 
thrown open and the prisoner was guided 
to a room where the flaring gas showed 
broken-bottomed chairs and a bedstead 



of pealing enamel. Here he was pushed 
into a chair. 

"What's the meaning of this outrage?" 
he demanded. 

The man who acted as leader stepped 
to the door, outside of which was heard 



a movement. 



Tis naught, Mrs. Sullivan, me friends 
and Tim O'Hara will be free at making 
a night of it. Get to yez rest." 

Retreating steps were heard, and 
O'Hara locked the door. He took from 
the mantel pipes and tobacco. "Will 
yez be smoking, Mr. Pepps?" he asked. 

"No indeed! Smoking is burning 
money!" 

"'Tis a conference," replied O'Hara. 
"The weed oils me mind. As to your 
interrogatory, the chair app'ints Phil 
Noonan to sez why Mr. Pepps is here." 

Mr. Noonan's explanation suggested 
whiskey more strongly than did his 
breath, and O'Hara came to his relief. 
"As how, Mr. Pepps, ye couldn't be 
expected to sense the scheme, Noonan 
being for the most part in the saloon, 
where, indade, yez loquacity drove many. 
'Twas there the plot was hatched, as 
how we'll put to the test yer deductions." 

"You'll put what to the test?" snapped 
Mr. Pepps. 

" 'Tis this way," continued O'Hara. 
"The big war's turned things topsy- 
turvy. W T imen voting, and beer with the 
kick gone! 'Tis the day of experimenta- 
tions." He turned to Noonan. "Was 
it four, Phil, that Muldowney left when 
the munition factory went up?' : 

" 'Twas four, and a babe in arms," 
mumbled Noonan. 

"So! She's a fine woman, is Mrs. 
Muldowney!" 

"What's the woman got to do with 
it?" demanded Mr. Pepps. 

" She's a fine woman," repeated O'Hara. 

177 



178 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



" But 'tis dirty luck she's had. Buryings 
come higher than ever, and Muldowney 
isn't complainin' concerning his. And 
sickness wid the kids! Dirty luck for 
widow Muldowney!" 

"But what has the widow got to do 
with me?" pursued Mr. Pepps. 

O'Hara did not seem to hear the 
question. "And now, Noonan, yer wife's 
waiting and ye'll best be going," he said. 
"I'll make up a bit of a bed for Mr. Pepps." 

"What!" exclaimed the financier. 
"I'm not going to sleep here!" 

"Indade and yez will," replied O'Hara. 
"And I thought as how ye'd sensed the 
project." 

"I understand nothing but that I've 
been brought here without my consent." 

O'Hara explained. " 'Tis I that am 
yer boss, Mr. Pepps. I'm a paper 
hanger. I'll enter yez into the union as 
me apprentice, Noonan is yer mate. 
Ye'll do well, for I'll pay yez three 
seventy-five a day. That gives the 
twenty, and two fifty each week for 
tobacco and beer. The widow Mul- 
downey and her kids ye'll support. 
We'll see if yez figuring, and yez theo- 
retics, and yez economics'll be worth one 
blessed damn!" 

At last Mr. Pepps understood. In 
his lecture he had expressed his wish to 
try out just such an experiment. He 
proved that twenty dollars was more 
than sufficient for a family like Mrs. 
Muldowney's. He guided such a family 
for years, burying one child and acting 
as the stork for another. So ample, 
indeed, was the income that when the 
stork appeared for another visit, it 
dropped its burden in a cottage owned 
by the twenty-dollar man. His wealth 
of economical detail led to his capture, 
for worn out with waiting for the family 
to own the cottage, and a pretty girl 
happening along, Mr. Pepps' chauffeur 
took her for a ride, and the financier was 
obliged to start for home on his feet. 

"So that's the idea!" snapped Mr. 
Pepps. "So you think that I cannot 
support a family on twenty, dollars?" 



a 



You're forgetting the cottage," re- 
minded O'Hara. 

"I'm forgetting nothing," snapped 
Mr. Pepps. "There's not the slightest 
difficulty." 

"'Tis ye'll agree?" 

"Expect me to jump into an experi- 
ment of this kind? If you'd gone at the 
thing right — " 

"Ye're forgetting that ye're Robert 
Pepps and this was the only way for 
chucking yez into it," said O'Hara. 

Absurd as it might seem, the applica- 
tion of his theories was alluring to Mr. 
Pepps. He was used up with the many 
activities he had assumed during the 
war. For a few weeks, he considered, 
the experiment would give him a needed 
rest. 

"I'm the man to try it out," he mused. 
"But," he said, "of course, it's absurd 
that I live here. I'll stay the night, 
for it's late. And I'll take an occasional 
meal, so as to make suggestions as to a 
working-man's menu. To put the matter 
on a correct basis, however, we'll fix 
up things just as if I did live here. And 
if I did, what would I pay for my board?" 

O'Hara sucked on his pipe and a 
shrewd gleam came into his eyes. "Mrs. 
Sullivan charges five dollars a week for 
table board. Being as it's just the same 
as if you slept in me room, we'll be 
making the board nine." 

"You'll not," said Mr. Pepps. "Why 
should I put four dollars a week into 
your pocket? I'll need all I can scrape 
for the widow. Make it one and as a 
rest from war finance I'm hanged if I 
won't go in — either party to give up the 
deal at any time." 

Two mornings later, prompt to the 
second, and attired in a suit of O'Hara's 
overalls, Mr. Pepps waited for his boss, 
and within a few days things settled into 
a routine. Every morning the appren- 
tice was more prompt than Mrs. Sulli- 
van's clock, which was a slow-time 
measure, and which soon had the finan- 
cier's attention amid his ocean of reforms. 
He took to paper hanging as he took to 



PEPPS' PITILESS PROSPERITY 



179 



all things. He rushed the jobs, and 
O'Hara had difficulty to stay the hand 
of the new apprentice. Forbidden to 
use any of the nooning hour in paper 
hanging, Mr. Pepps spent all but the 
ten minutes he' allowed for his snack in 
making memoranda as to the reforma- 
tion of Mrs. Muldowney's, Mrs. Sulli- 
van's, and O'Hara's affairs, or in adding 
to the manuscript of a book he was 
writing on economics. And very soon 
the experiment trailed anything but joy 
for the victims. It was as if they were 
sociological insects, which the financial 
naturalist had pinned on a board to 
observe their economical struggles. His 
evenings were too 6 short for bargainings 
[or supplies for Mrs. Muldowney and 
Mrs. Sullivan, and for acting as adviser 
to any one he could inveigle into O'Hara's 
rcom. That laborer would be in bed 
long before his apprentice's day ended, 
and his snores would be an accompani- 
ment to a lecture by the enthusiast to 
a pupil, who had found no method of 
escape. 

Thus the days flew. Mr. Pepps* 
devotion to his experiment increased and 
increased, and before the experiment 
rushed to a finish he so pervaded Mrs. 
Sullivan's boarding house, and had so 
taken everything under his jurisdiction 
that, to make a historical comparison, 
Mr. Pepps was a financial' Napoleon in 
a financial petty Elba. All details of 
the lives under Mrs. Sullivan's roof, of 
Mrs. Muldowney's family, and of all 
families he could poke his sharp nose 
into, were analyzed, tabulated and criti- 
cized. On a Saturday evening, when the 
financial Elba had almost run its course, 
and Mr. Pepps had gone to traffic for 
supplies, O'Hara put the matter to his 
other apprentice. 

"He's a howling wonder! Every Sat- 
urday he shows me the savings. How 
does he contrive the miracle? 'Tis me 
belief 'tis a kind of extry sense, same as 
the fiddler in a show plays a fiddle up- 
side down. And the savings are going 
into property alongside the new subway 



extension. Says he, 'The widow Mul- 
downey's money'll go in wid me own. 
If ye'll keep yer eyes pealed, ye'll see 
hundreds come from tens and thousands 
from hundreds.' 

"And Mrs. Muldowney says he's the 
best provider ever, but he's keeping down 
every expense. He'll tell what's a suf- 
ficient allowance for each wan of them 
childer — different, mind yez, according 
to their weight, and for every meal! 
He's got her all figured down as fine as 
I figger me wall-paper. But Airs. 
Muldowney has to make an accounting 
down to the last cent. She's driven out 
of her peace wid keeping her accounts in 
the books he's fixed up. As was her 
words: 'We has food enough and we 
has clothing enough — though where he 
gits his bargains is a mystification! And 
we has things we never had before the 
munition factory busted. But, Mr. 
O'Hara,' says Mrs. Muldowney, 'it's 
sure the toilsome way for a widder to 
make a living!' 

"Yez sees, Noonan, she's at it night 
after night wid her eldest and the bye's 
quick at figgers, figuring to make her 
balances, and if there's a difference of a 
cent there's the devil of a ruction. At 
times Mr. Pepps has a tongue like a 
sarpint!" 

For a few moments Mr. O'Hara leaned 
back in his chair, then he gloomily 
continued. 

"He's taken to smoking, but he weighs 
his tobacco. He isn't wanting it, said 
he didn't have the handicap of using 
tobacco. He allows hisself one cigarette 
morning and nighr And I'm meself 
like the widder Muldowney. What wid 
being criticized for two beers a day — 
two beers! And ither things! Why 
man, me galluses give way, but do yez 
suppose he'd allow me the luxury of a 
new pair? Not on yez life. Last night 
he was up till twelve putting in a section 
of elastic webbing! Where the devil did 
he learn to sew, Noonan? 'Tis me belief 
that, if there was a ten-cent piece dan- 
gling, he could teach hisself anything!" 



180 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Here O'Hara was interrupted, and 
Mrs. Sullivan pushed the door open and 
dropped into a chair. 

"What's the matter ?" asked O'Hara. 

Mrs. Sullivan turned her head and 
listened. 

"Yez'll have time to tell us — his car 
isn't coming till midnight, wid his hag- 
gling for a nickel." 

"He says as secrecy is the motto for 
business," groaned Mrs. Sullivan. "But 
'tis time I had advice. The rebate, as he 
calls it, has lifted to ten a week!" 

"Ten!" gasped O'Hara. "That's five 
more'n his board!" 

"And he's wanting twelve. And whin 
he's wanting anything he has elastic 
bands to yank it. He's buying all me 
supplies. I'm not saying but what 
they're cheap. He's got screaching 
powers! But I has me doubts where 
it'll stop. Though to be fair, he earns 
the twelve, and I've never made the 
profits I'm making. But he's got his 
eye on me bit of a settin' room, so as to 
get another boarder. He says as how we 
must bring up every inch of the plant to 
its maximum earning capacity — as is 
his way of saying me house is a plant to 
be sittin' up nights to tend." 

"Pore woman!" put in O'Hara. 

"And what wid his cyard system — 
every boarder on a cyard! How much he 
weighs, and how much he eats and what 
does him good, and all on a cyard! And 
other systems — -books and accounts! 
I'm that drove I can't do me dress-makin' ! " 

"Pore woman!" again said O'Hara. 

"Me life isn't worth the trouble," 
continued Mrs. Sullivan. "What wid 
dreaming of cyards, I'm losing me sleep, 
and what wid watchin' to an ounce what 
me boarders eat, me own appetite's 
slipping away. And measuring the milk, 
and keeping watch wid eyes twisted 
seven ways at oncet! I wish, Mr. 
O'Hara, ye'd never brought him — 
indade I do!" 

Mrs. Sullivan lifted her apron and for 
a few moments found it impossible to 
continue. 



"And Mrs. Muldowney is below taking 
her cup of tea, weak as water and no 
sugar for fear Mr. Pepps will cut her off 
ontirely. Mr. Pepps thinks as her dys- 
pepsia is due to tea. But the pore woman 
needs even weak tea, what wid her own 
devilments!" 

"Ye'll bring her up!" exclaimed 
O'Hara. "And what wid all the pother, 
we'd best be having a meeting. I've 
made a mistake, and the times's come 
when we'll be requesting him to resign. 
We've had a prosperity as has gripped 
us to our innards. Speaking for meself, 
'tis not Tim O'Hara as is wanting hun- 
nards, thousands, or millions if the price 
is what Mr. Pepps' teaching is showing!" 

It was while the afflicted were discuss- 
ing means for requesting the resignation 
of their instructor that he entered. 

"What bargains!" he gloated. "Cab- 
bages for a nickel — fine heavy cabbages, 
Mrs. Sullivan! I helped the Italian sell 
his load and he gave me a rake-off. How 
we got the women coming! That's life, 
that is! Tonight I feel like a feller who 
knows it's a park bench for him, if he 
don't sell his filters in flat houses. If 
I only had a Robert Pepps, Junior, I'd 
turn over my plunder and start at the 
bottom again. To buck the old world 
without a cent and climb a second time! 
I'll have to think that over. But I 
must drop from the clouds. I must 
grip the problem of the moment!" He 
flitted about the room like a gaunt old 
dog that is unleashed in a city park. 

"And how is the card system . coming 
along?" he asked Mrs. Sullivan. "It's 
Saturday night and we've lots of time — 
we'll get busy. There's a slew of matters, 
Mrs. Sullivan, I wish to bring to your 
attention!" 

" 'Tis me wish to be courteous, Mr. 
Pepps," interrupted O'Hara, "but 'tis 
Mrs. Sullivan, pore woman, as is worn 
out. Little wonder! Ah, Mr. Pepps, 
if we all had yez ginger and push, we'd 
all be living in palaces wid our pockets 
full of gold. And 'tis yesself, Mr. Pepps, 
as cannot perceive as how yer ginger and 



FRENCH COOKERY 



181 



push wears the other parties to the 
deal." 

"I noticed when I came in that some- 
thing was wrong," said Mr. Pepps, danc- 
ing from Mrs. Sullivan to Mrs. Mul- 
downey. "I thought that you were 
worrying because I didn't get back 
promptly — but when you see what a 
boy and I have carted into the kitchen! 
Oh, such bargains, such bargains!" 

'Tis me wish to be courteous," re- 
peated O'Hara, "but,yez sees,'Mr. Pepps, 
the experiment has been too much of a 



success. And we've been holding a 
final conference, the upshot being that, 
if yez'll call the deal off, we'll be that 
•thankful! sure the hope is like the thought 
of a quiet grave. I'll just be stepping'to 
the corner to telephone for the auto^to 
come for yez." 

Mr. Pepps has given up practical in- 
struction in the subject in which he is a 
master. He confines himself to lectur- 
ing, and he always ends his lectures with, 
"Teach 'em young. You can't train 
baldheads to walk tight-ropes." 



Why is French Cookery Extolled? 

A Lecture to Housewives 
By Kurt Heppe 



WE hear, in this country, so much 
about French cookery and 
about high salaried French 
chefs, and many an American man and 
woman stops to ask why, just why, 
French cookery is so superior to our own. 

To answer this question one must first 
refer to a much cherished American pre- 
judice, and that is the American Nat- 
ional belief, that the catering business as 
such "IS NOT WORTH CONSIDER- 
ATION!" 

It is because we believe that catering, 
in all its branches, is below the level to 
which the self-respecting American stoops, 
in his search for a vocation; while, on the 
other hand, the Frenchman considers it 
a highly honorable and exceedingly re- 
munerative profession, and consequently 
devotes to it long years of earnest study. 

Cookery, like everything else, improves 
with intelligent practice. In order to 
devote intelligent practice to any one 
thing, one must first be intelligent, and 
then willing to devote time, energy and 
earnest effort to a certain thing. 

It is right here, however, the American 
cook "falls down" (as the darkies like 
to say); it is right here that he fails. 
Firstly, intelligent Americans, or let us 
say, Americans capable of intelligent 



efforts, do not choose cookery for a pro- 
fession; and, secondly, those who do choose 
it, do not care to make great efforts of 
any kind, intelligent or otherwise. 

And yet, French cookery, or good cook- 
ing, to be more general, is really nothing 
more than "hard work properly directed." 

The French cook goes about his work 
very much like the American, only he 
makes certain manipulations that the 
American considers superfluous; the 
American cook dearly likes to use "sub- 
stitutes," while the French cook uses only 
genuine compositions, and makes these 
himself. This entails work, nothing ex- 
traordinary, but just hard, back-breaking 
work. The French kitchen glories in 
this, but, then, the French kitchen is, also, 
superior. 

Now to come down to facts, what are 
the secrets of French cookery? 

How is it that, given two equal pieces 
of meat, a French and an American cook 
in competition, the American must in- 
variably leave the palm to the foreigner? 

Why can the Frenchman make de- 
licious sauces, while the American utterly 
fails in this respect? 

Again I must say it is due entirely to 
"earnest effort, intelligently applied." 

Most sauces, as few people know, are 



182 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



made of meat, and of meat extract, 
cunningly flavored and aromatized. 
Understand me well, I say flavored and 
aromatized, and I mean two entirely 
different things by each one of these 
expressions. 

To flavor sauces one uses celery stalks, 
onions, carrots, leeks and turnips, and 
to aromatize sauces one uses bay leaves, 
thyme, cloves, basil, sage, rosemary, 
sweet marjoram, mace, juniper berries, 
ginger and vanilla. Then there are a 
few more aromatics, which are fre- 
quently resorted to for this latter purpose, 
but which are used fresh, only, these are, 
chervil, parsley, taragon, pimpernel and 
savory, also orange and lemon zest. 

How many of these does the American 
cook know? Very few, indeed! He will 
probably accuse me that I forgot the 
most important, namely "nutmeg," but 
I did not forget it, only I want to say 
that, while the American cook uses this 
aromatic almost exclusively, the French 
cook uses it most sparingly, it being of 
far too pungent a character to warrant 
its extensive use. 

Now these few lines will give the house- 
wife an idea of why French cookery can 
achieve greater results than the Ameri- 
can, but the main issue is as yet hidden. 
What I am coming to is really the 
main-spring of success, namely, "The 
stock." 

What is stock? I will tell you. It is 
what the French cook uses where you 
use water, dear Madam; that is the 
reason why his soups and sauces taste so 
different from yours. Don't get angry 
because I am scolding you, but it is high 
time you should learn. Listen to me a 
little while longer and you will know a 
few things which were a puzzle to you 
heretofore. 

The French cook makes his soups and 
sauces very much alike. That is, he 
uses in most of them stock, and stock 
again is really a soup. In fact it is the 
first brew won from a boiled infusion of 
meat and bones and flavoring vegetables. 

What did I say flavoring vegetables 



were? Oh, yes, celery, carrots, leeks, 
onions and turnips. 

Well, then, to make a stock he takes 
bones, crushes them, and cheap meat 
cuts, grinds them, and vegetable trim- 
mings for flavoring (as above mentioned), 
and sets all to boil (well covered with 
cold water). As soon as it boils, he puts 
it on the side of the fire and lets it simmer 
for four or five hours; every once in a 
while he goes to work and carefully lifts 
off the scum. , 

At the end of the four to five hours all 
the strength and savor of the meat and 
the bones, combined with the flavor of the 
vegetables, is in the water, and this water 
is now called stock. It is drawn off 
carefully, so as to remain clear, and is 
then set into a draught with a wedge 
underneath, in order to cool quickly, 
and is, when cold, put into the ice box. 
Special stock-pots with a faucet are 
handy, as the stock may be drawn off and 
the flow shut off before the fat flows out. 

Now, whenever the cook wants to fill 
up on a sauce he uses some of this stock, 
and in this manner gives it a fundamental 
base of strength and flavor; and as the 
sauce itself is made from bones and meat, 
with aromatics, and with this stock for 
a liquor, is it any wonder that it turns 
out of wonderful quality, full of savory 
and appetizing characteristics? 

But not all sauces are made from stock 
(some are made with milk), and not all 
soups are made with stock (some are 
really made with water, namely, legume 
soups), but of this more later. 

What I want to bring out in this article 
is the fact that stock is the fundament 
upon which French cookery is built; 
without stock there would not be any 
French cookery, and by the same token 
there would not be any good cookery, 
because stock and good cooking are 
inseparable; the one cannot exist without 
the other. 

Please remember that whenever you 
enter your kitchen, you ought always tc 
have some good cold stock ready in your 
ice box, in order to meet any emergency 



FRENCH COOKERY 



183 



If you have that the rest is easy. Every- 
thing else, or nearly everything else, 
depends upon the stock. 

For fish sauces one must make a fish 
stock, that is, one uses fish trimmings 
instead of meat trimmings; but no 
vegetables are here employed, instead, 
however, a few aromatics (an onion, 
stuck with three cloves, a little celery and 
parsley and a few whole black peppers). 

For game sauces it is well to make a 
game stock by. using the game trimmings 
and superfluous bones; although an 
ordinary beef stock is quite good; it 
takes a real gourmet to know the dif- 
ference, if the sauce itself is worked up 
with a little game. 

For fowl sauces one should use fowl 
stock, although ordinary beef stock is 
here, too, quite good enough; by the 
same token may fowl carcases be used 
with advantage in the beef stock. 

The essence of this whole article is to 
remind the cook that the first thing to 
do in the morning is to put on the stock, 
so that by eleven o'clock one's stock is 
ready to make sauces, finish soups, etc. 

Whenever you want to know if you 
have a cook who knows something of his 
business, see if he has his stock-pot at the 
back of the range first thing every morn- 
ing, for in any kitchen where proper work 
is done this unfailing sign of efficient 
work is never missing. 

Now then, did I make myself plain? 
The trouble with all cook-books is that 
they pre-suppose an elementary knowl- 
edge of cooking, and because this ele- 
mentary knowledge is only too often 
lacking, the recipes frequently turn out 
badly. All cook-books are good, if the 
neophyte already knows how to cook 
(and uses the book simply for a reminder). 
But to learn cooking from the printed 
sheet, the teacher must be explicit, and 
again explicit, and then some more 
explicit. Therefore, excuse my seeming 
repetitions. 

Now, if at any time you have too much 
stock on hand, let it reduce on the range 
until it becomes meat-glace; this can be 



long preserved and used the same way 
as meat extracts, — its uses are many. It 
may be used to coat cold roasts and also 
hot fowl, etc. A luscious brown coat 
enhances the appearance of cuts greatly. 

It may, also, be used for certain sauces 
by simply creaming and buttering it. 

Gravies are made from the juices of 
the roasting pan. In order to obtain a 
proper article the roasting pan should be 
just large enough for the roast (so that 
the fat will not burn), and minced onions, 
carrots and leeks should be used to deck 
the roast, in order to give the resulting 
gravy its taste. However, this method, 
though best, seldom furnishes enough 
gravy; it becomes, therefore, necessary 
to prepare an artificial gravy. For this 
purpose one uses the juices, plus all the 
bones from roasted meats, and fowl 
carcases, puts them into a stock-pot and 
covers them with water. If not enough 
bones are on hand, one must roast some 
trimmings with flavoring vegetables and 
use these instead. This method fur- 
nishes a plentiful supply of very good 
gravy; a little meat-glace will greatly 
strengthen it. Only roasted bones must 
be used, however. 

Now to come back to our sauces, in 
order to make a veloute sauce, for fri- 
cassee, for instance, you put a saucepan 
on the fire, with half butter and fowl fat; 
add one heaping handful of flour per 
gallon of stock you intend to use, that 
means per gallon of sauce you_intend to 
make, for a quarter gallon use a quarter 
handful; add the flour when the butter 
is bubbling, not before, stir the mixture 
with a wire whisk, and keep at this 
stirring until bubbles appear and the 
mixture is very smooth. If it is not 
smooth, it simply means that you have 
not used enough fat; in that case heat 
a little more fat in a separate pan, and 
add it gradually — only fowl fat or butter 
should be used. Now when the butter 
and flour mixture is thus ready, add the 
hot stock, but add it very gradually, 
whisking hard all the while, as otherwise 
you will have dumplings in your pan 



184 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



instead of an even smooth sauce. When 
the roux (as this mixture of flour and 
butter is professionally called) is evenly 
absorbed, and has cooked for about 
fifteen minutes, add the yolks of some 
eggs which have been kept smooth with 
a little lemon juice. To do this right 
you will have to dilute the egg-yolks 
first, separately, with a little of the stock, 
then take your sauce off the fire, and 
when the bubbling stops, add the diluted 
egg-yolks, very gradually; the sauce must 
now not again be suffered to boil, as 
otherwise the egg-yolks in it will clump 
(this being a characteristic of egg-yolks); 
they will act in this sometimes very 
disagreeable way under all circumstances, 
and it is, therefore, well never to forget 
this little caprice of theirs. 

The sauce is now spiced with a little 



salt, white pepper and a very little nut- 
meg. This is a most delicious sauce for 
all sorts of fricassees, but for chicken 
fricassee one best uses chicken stock, while 
for veal fricassee one should use veal 
stock, but any kind of meat stock will 
do in an emergency. 

This sauce can be turned into a veloute 
soup by simply thinning it out with more 
stock; and once it is soup, it can be 
garnished in a hundred different ways, 
giving it a different characteristic every 
time. 

Thus you see the fact illustrated that 
sauces and soups have much in common. 

In the next issue I shall enlarge upon 
the usage of stock, and explain why some 
sauces are made without stock, and why 
some soups are made with water instead 
of stock, or with milk. 



Something New for the Halloween Party 

By Alice Urquhart Fewell 



WHAT shall we serve at the Hal- 
loween party this year? It must 
be new and different, and at the same 
time appropriate to the occasion. Unique 
refreshments, with something in the 
nature of a surprise, are being sought by 
every hostess who is planning to enter- 
tain on Halloween, and the following 
suggestions may help to solve the problem, 
in part at least. 

Orange Jack-o-Lantern 

Illustration on Page 200 

Select large, bright-colored oranges of 
good shape, allowing one orange to each 
person served. With a sharp knife cut 
a small piece off the top of the orange, and 
scoop out all the pulp with a spoon or 
knife. Reserve the juice and pulp for 
future use. With a penknife cut a face 
on one side of the orange, as one would 



on a pumpkin. Care must be taken not 
to cut entirely through the rind of the 
orange, and only the very thin yellow 
skin on the outside should be removed, 
leaving the white part underneath intact. 
There must be no broken surface, as the 
orange skins are to be filled again. The 
juice from the oranges may now all be 
extracted by putting the pulp in two 
thicknesses of cheesecloth and squeezing 
with the fingers. This juice is used for 
making orange ice or sherbet, which is 
served in the orange skins. Instead of 
the ice, orange gelatine can be made, and 
molded in the orange skins. Whipped 
cream should be served on top, as shown 
in the illustration. 

Frozen Fruit Salad 

Mix equal parts of apples, oranges, 
pineapple and grapes, all cut in small 



.- 



THE HALLOWEEN PARTY 



185 



pieces. Make a rich cream salad dressing, 
using a generous portion of whipped 
cream. Mix this lightly with the fruit, 
turn into the can of an ice-cream freezer, 
and pack in salt and ice for two to three 
hours. The dasher and crank of the 
freezer are not used, but the mixture 
should be stirred lightly with a long- 
handle spoon several times while the 
freezing is going on. Serve this frozen 
salad in large red apples which have been 
scooped out like the orange above. The 
apple which comes from the inside is 
used to make the salad. To prevent 
these apple shells from turning dark after 
they have been scooped out, they should 
be placed in a pan of cold water. This 
makes a most attractive-looking dish, 
and especially if the apples are served on 
colored paper doilies. Cut round doilies 
from orange-colored paper, making the 
doilies slightly smaller than the plate on 
which the apple is to be served. Place 
these doilies on the plates, and on top of 
them put smaller doilies cut from black 
paper. These should be small enough 
so that at least an inch of the orange 
paper shows around the edges. Place 
the apple on this black doily, and we 
have a combination of all the Halloween 
colors. 

Halloween Cake 

Illustration on Page 193 

Select any favorite cake recipe, and 
bake the cake in three round pans, each 
one smaller than the last. Milk pans are 
good for this purpose, and the cakes 
should be about two and a half inches high 
when baked. Place these cakes, when 
cold, one on top of the other, forming a 
pyramid shape. Now frost the whole 
with frosting which has been colored 
yellow with vegetable coloring. White 
of egg and powdered sugar, beaten to- 
gether until stiff enough to spread, make 
the best frosting for this kind of cake 
which is to be decorated. While the 
frosting is still moist, decorate the cake 
in fancy designs, using tiny round black 



candies. For the remainder of the deco- 
ration four small black witches and four 
small black cats are required. These 
may be purchased at any store where 
small favors are kept. On the first ledge 
of the cake place the four black cats, 
evenly spaced on four sides of the cake. 
On the second ledge of the cake place the 
four witches, spacing them in between the 
cats on the ledge below. A single yellow 
candle may be placed on the very top of 
the cake, and pieces of narrow, yellew, 
baby ribbon may be fastened with paste 
from the witches to the cat^ giving the 
impression that the witches are driving 
the cats. This cake makes a very at- 
tractive centerpiece for a table, when 
places are set for the refreshments. 

Witches' Delight 

Bake sponge cake in bread pans abou': 
the size of a quartbrick of ice cream. 
Cut thin slices of the sponge cake with a 
sharp knife, and arrange them on indi- 
vidual serving plates with a slice of ice 
cream cut from a brick in between two 
slices of the cake, forming an ice cream 
sandwich. Pour hot chocolate sauce 
over the whole, and serve at once. 

Gelatine Sandwich 

Make a gelatine dessert of any flavor 
desired, and mold in bread pans which 
have been moistened with cold water. 
Use a little more gelatine than the ordi- 
nary recipe calls for so that the jelly will 
be quite stiff. When the jelly is firm 
turn it from the mold onto a large 
platter, and cut slices from it with a 
sharp knife. Place these slices of jelly 
between two slices of sponge cake of the 
same size to form a sandwich. Serve 
one sandwich on individual plates with 
whipped cream piled lightly on top. 
Instead of using whipped cream the 
entire sandwich may be frosted with 
yellow frosting, and decorated with fancy 
black and yellow candies. 



Lessons in Food and Cookery, 
with Simple Appliances 

The Apple 

By Anna Barrows 

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University 



IN color, form and flavor, no fruit offers 
so great a variety as the apple. Cer- 
tainly we could select one best apple 
for each month, beginning with the Mid- 
Summer Sweets, then the Red Astrachan, 
the Porter, the Jonathan, Baldwin, 
Spitzenberg, Greening and around to the 
Russet, which is best in the late spring 
or even summer. 

i Some schools have celebrated Apple 
Day during the harvest season by bring- 
ing together much that wise men have 
said and poets have sung about this old 
fruit, which is so familiar that it is not 
fully appreciated. 

•_How can a country school go further 
and really study the apple in its relation 
to other foods, and the pleasure and health 
it brings to those who use it freely? How 
can we have a lesson in foods and cookery 
without a special outfit? 

Where there is a stove for heating the 
schoolroom some experiments may be 
made in actual cookery, for a few utensils 
may be borrowed of the mothers, if there 
is no other way to get them. In some 
country districts of the old type, where 
the children bring a luncheon, the teacher 
has been able to give some good lessons 
in practical cookery, and give the children 
a warm dish each day. In pleasant 
weather it is possible to teach much 
around a camp-fire, but this should not 
be undertaken unless the conditions are 
favorable. However, it is an important 
item in the education of any human being 
to have learned to respect the power of 
fire and yet be able to control it. 

For an early lesson each child may 
bring a paring knife from home and one 
or more apples. The boys may use their 
pocket knives. The teacher may have 



a grater instead of a knife and show the 
pupils later that its rough surface is like 
many little knives. 

The more varied the collection of 
apples the better; let them be arranged 
as in a fair, each on a piece of paper on the 
desk of the one who brought it. If the 
desks are not numbered, have a number 
on the paper. Then let each pupil in- 
spect all and on a paper write the name 
he thinks belongs to each apple, and then 
compare the lists. 

This is a good exercise in writing, trains 
the powers of observation and probably 
gives the pupil more respect for apples. 

All the better, if some apples have to be 
referred back to the parents for final 
identification. 

An apple festival might be arranged by 
the teacher at the schoolhouse for the 
community; in the evening, if the room 
can be lighted, or during regular school 
hours. There might be recitations and 
readings in which the apple is the central 
figure, such as the old poem on Apple 
Dumplings and a King, and Henry Ward 
Beecher's tribute to Apple Pie. 

A tasting contest might follow to see 
how many can tell the name of an apple by 
its flavor, but before this is tried let each 
pare and quarter and core his apple, and 
try to estimate what per cent of the whole 
is discarded. There is room for dis- 
cussion whether an apple should be pared 
and why? What may be done with skins 
and cores; when does it pay to make 
jelly of them, etc. 

Another point worthy of some atten- 
tion is the proper drying or evaporation 
of apples. 

There the teacher has an opportunity 
to talk of food values, but should not go 

186 



THE APPLE 



187 



too far in this direction at first. After 
the apples have been slowly tasted, — for 
that is a good lesson, since few really 
enjoy the flavors of food as they might, — 
all the refuse may be gathered up in the 
papers and disposed of as is best. Why 
not use the refuse to make a fire as we 
use scraps of paper? Then again the large 
proportion of water will be recognized. 
The knives can be rubbed dry with a 
scrap of paper. The teacher, then, can 
grate a portion of an apple and gather 
it in a rag and squeeze it, or failing to have 
the rag may lay it on a blotter, which 
will absorb a large part of the juice or 
water. 

The fiber remaining should be studied, 
since that is what must be softened by 
heat in the pies or puddings. 

Grated apple may be added to sweet- 
ened cream and frozen. Such a lesson is 
easily managed in winter time, using snow 
instead of cracked ice with salt, and 
freezing the flavored cream in small lots 
in small tin cans with covers, such as 
baking powder comes in. Another exer- 
cise might be to let each write on the 
blackboard the name of some good way 
his mother has of cooking apples. Or 
let several tell how to bake apples. 

If we had to choose just one way to 
cook apples, would it not be the baked 
apple? But an apple to bake must be a 
very perfect apple with a fine flavor. So 
when the apples are imperfect we have to 
core and pare them and put other things 
with them, like spice and sugar, to make 
them taste good. 

To bake: — 'Choose fine apples; wash 
them and put in an agate plate with a 
little water to keep the juice that will run 
out from burning on the pan. Put in 
that part of the oven where the heat will 
reach top and bottom of the apple alike. 
This place will differ somewhat in the 
ovens in our houses, as they are not all of 
the same size and shape. In a gas or 
kerosene stove the oven is often above the 
fire, while in the coal or wood range the 
fire is on one side of the oven. How many 
can study the stove at home and tell us 



about it another day? How many can 
bake some apples all alone at home? 

How long will it take to bake apples? 
Will it take more time to bake ten than 
to bake one? Every country child has 
a chance to see something of the processes 
of cooking, so a teacher, having some 
practical knowledge herself, or by previous 
study of a public-school cookbook, can 
gradually bring together the essential 
points in baking an apple. The size of 
the fruit, the heat of the oven will be 
mentioned as influencing the time of 
baking, but the important thing is the 
result — a soft apple, rather browner than 
when it went into the oven, but not 
burned. Nor should the apple be left in 
the oven until it is dry and shriveled. 
The ideal baked apple is that which can 
be eaten just as the juice has changed and 
puffed the whole fruit into a mass of foam. 
This condition is best reached by roasting 
the apples before an open fire. But the 
usual oven-baked apple, even when cold, 
is a good article of food. 

There are many variations of this simple 
process which may be discussed with 
older pupils, and even may be carried out 
in the schoolroom. 

If each pupil's mother will lend one 
utensil, a good working outfit can be 
secured and a small kerosene lamp stove, 
or the top of the schoolroom heater, 
will give a chance for many useful 
experiments. 

Where no oven is available, apples may 
be cooked in a pan on top of the stove in 
a syrup made of one cup, each, of sugar 
and water for six or eight apples. The 
apples need not be pared, if the skins are 
bright red and are not imperfect or too 
thick. It is a good plan to prick the 
skin or make horizontal or circular cuts 
at regular intervals to prevent its break- 
ing or slipping off altogether. The 
apples should be cooked gently and un- 
covered until tender, but not too soft. 
They must be turned over, at least, once, 
that both ends may cook alike. After 
they are taken out of the syrup a little 
soaked gelatine may be added to it, or 



188 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



without any addition it may be allowed 
to cook away a little more and then be 
poured into and over the apples. 

Pared-and-cored apples are sometimes 
rilled with cooked sausage or other 
chopped meat and then baked or cooked 
on top of the stove with a very little water 
or fat around them to prevent burning. 

The apple dumpling, or variations of it, 
would make a good substantial addition 
to cold luncheons, but that type of cook- 
ery is more complicated and should be 
taken up later with doughs. 

An Apple Salad is quickly made at 
school, if somebodv's mother will send a 
little jar of salad dressing. Any com- 
bination of sliced apple and chopped 
nuts, with either celery or lettuce, or 
even tender cabbage, will make a good 
salad. 

Apple Pie cannot be made and baked 
in the ordinary schoolroom. But when 
apple pie is brought from home, this verse 
and Rev. H. W. Beecher's description 
may be read to all the school. 

APPLE PIE 

"All new dishes fade, the newest oft the fleetest: 
Of pies ever made, the apple's still the sweetest. 
Cut and come again, the syrup upward springing, 
While life and taste remain, to thee my heart 
is clinging. 



Who a pie would make, first his apple slices, 
Then he ought to take some cloves and best of 

spices, 
Grate some lemon rind, butter add discreetly, 
Then some sugar mix, but mind, — the pie not 

make too sweetly, 
If a cook of taste be competent to make it, 
In the finest paste he will enclose and bake it." 

"Do not suppose thatwe limit the Apple 
Pie to the kinds and methods enumerated. 
Its capacity in variation is endless, and 
every diversity discovers some new charm 
or flavor. It will accept almost every 
flavor of every spice. Yet nothing is so 
fatal to the rare and higher graces of 
Apple Pie as inconsiderate, vulgar spicing. 
It is not meant to be a mere vehicle for 
the exhibition of these spices, in their own 
natures; it is a glorious unity, in which 
sugar gives up its nature as sugar, and 
butter ceases to be butter, and each 
flavorsome spice gladly vanishes from its 
own full nature, that all of them, by a 
common death, may rise into the new 
life of Apple Pie! Not that apple is 
longer apple! It, too, is transformed; 
and the final pie, though born of apple, 
sugar, butter, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon, 
is like none of these, but the compound 
ideal of them all, refined, purified, and by 
fire fixed in blissful perfection." 



Dishwashing in Literature and Elsewhere 

By Mrs. Geo. L. Washburn 



AS to dishwashing in literature, I 
am reminded of what Betsey 
Prig said about Sairey Gamp's 
cherished friend, Mrs. Harris: 

"I don't believe there's no sich a 



person 



I" 



Literature has been defined as "life 
seen through the medium of master 
minds," but the master minds have been 
singularly unconscious of dishwashing. 

Unlike so many of my sex, I do not dis- 
like dishwashing; it delights my orderly 
soul to see the glass and china and silver, 
the pots and the pans, the tinware and 
the woodenware emerge from my treat- 
ment clean and shiningjand ready to be 



used again. But it does take a great 
deal of my time, and why, I ask, are the 
dishes never washed in literature? Food 
is prepared, food is eaten, but what be- 
comes of the dishes? 

We know from Milton that even in 
Eden there were dishes. The fatal 
apple was, perhaps, "eaten by hand," 
as apples still are eaten in rural districts, 
but previous to that sad occurrence, when 
Eve is entertaining an angelic guest, 
she prepares an elaborate meal with 
great choice of viands, 

"Nor these to hold 
Wants her fit vessels pure," 



DISHWASHING IN LITERATURE 



189 



and while the refection was being en- 
joyed, Eve 

"Their flowing cups 
With pleasant liquors crowned," 

but when the meal was over and Eve 

withdrew, it was not to wash these cups 

and vessels, but to go 

"forth among her fruits and flowers 
To visit how they prospered, bud and bloom." 

As to when and by whom those dishes 
were washed, Milton gives us absolutely 
no information. Did Adam and Eve 
do them together, cosily and chummily, 
after the guest had gone, or did Eve 
stack them and leave them until morn- 
ing? 

Tennyson does little better than 

Milton. When Enid's father welcomes 

Geraint to his castle, " poor, but ever 

open-door'd," 

"Enid brought sweet cakes to make them cheer, 
And in her veil enfolded, manchet bread. 
And then, because their hall must also serve 
For kitchen, boil'd the flesh, and spread the 

board, 
And stood behind and waited on the three." 

When supper is over, Enid presumably 

washes the dishes, but except for a 

casual allusion to 

"Enid at her lowly handmaid work," 

nothing is said about it. And so it is 
with all the rest of the poets and writers; 
Scott, Cervantes, Shakespeare, Brown- 
ing, you may search them all; you will 
find plenty of cooking and eating, of 
feasting and rioting, but seldom any 
dishwashing. 

Who shall wash the dishes and do the 
other unattractive but inevitable tasks 
is really one of the fundamental problems 
of civilization. On Prospero's Island 
such work was relegated to the unhappy 
Caliban, and this, in the main, has been 
the plan adopted by society. It was, 
for a time, a fairly satisfactory arrange- 
ment for Prospero and Miranda and 
their class, although they were always 
secretly afraid of their minion. But 
some two thousand years ago it began to 
be whispered around the world that 
Caliban, too, was a brother (sometimes 
he was called Onesimus), that he also 



had his dream and vision of Setebos, and 
the foundation of Prospero's house began 
to crumble. And now the rains descend 
and the floods come and the winds blow 
and beat upon the house, and its whole 
structure seems doomed. 

In one of Madame de Hegermann- 
Lindencrone's charming letters, first pub- 
lished — strange coincidence — in Au- 
gust, 1914, she gives an account of her 
attendance at a Court Ball at the Royal 
Palace in Berlin. 

"It amused me," she writes, "while 
we were waiting in the carriage to see 
standing before one of the entrances to 
the Palace a whole line of soldiers with 
serviettes hung over their shoulders. 
They were there for the purpose of wash- 
ing the dishes after the supper." And, as 
she was leaving the Palace after the ball, 
she saw through the open door of a room 
they passed "a regiment of soldiers 
wiping plates." 

Caliban, thinking that he was about 

to throw off the yoke of Prospero, 

chuckles at the prospect — ■ 

"No more dams I'll make for fish, 
Nor fetch in firing 
At requiring; 
Nor scrape trencher, nor wash dish." 

To Caliban, that is, as to Prospero and 
to Kaiser Wilhelm and, perhaps, to you 
and to me, success in life means to es- 
cape from its unpleasant details and to 
impose them upon some other. It is 
a very different spirit from that which 
strives to make the whole world free. 

But if Caliban is free, who will wash 
the dishes? Shall Ferdinand? or Mir- 
anda ? Ferdinand, moiling the wood, was 
assured that 

"poor matters 
Point to rich ends," 

but would his philosophy have stood the 
test of dish water? I believe Ariel might 
turn dishwashing into poetry, or perhaps 
Prospero will come to the rescue with his 
magic. As I have said, I do not dislike 
dishwashing, yet I would like, sometimes 
at least, to go to the ball, and not always 
to spend the evening in an adjoining 
room, wiping plates. 



190 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



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PRODUCTION AND EFFICIENCY 

IN all that is being said about living 
expenses and world-wide unrest to- 
day, a few things only seem real and 
tangible. One thing is certain; people 
do not want to hear any more about the 
conservation of food. The word has 
become odious; people will have no more 
of it. They are heartily tired of further 
appeal for conservation, or Hooverism. 
The practice has little or nothing to do 
with true thriftiness, which is always in 
order and commendable. The earth is 
the Lord's and the fulness thereof. 
Eat and be satisfied alone will suffice 
for wholesome living here. 

Again, the demands of the so-called 
workmen for shorter working hours and 
higher pay is, to say the least, most 
untimely and unseemly under the condi- 
tions that now exist. No course of 
procedure could be more unwise and 
perverse, than to advance the price of 
anything, including wages, at the present 
time. What we, as a people, need and 
want above all, is the opportunity to 
work as many hours per day as we choose, 



to produce just as much as possible, in 
every line of production, and to sell all 
surplus in the markets of the world. 
This means real thrift, and naught else 
does. Through increased production, 
then, only can be solved the economic 
problems of the day. 

But, according to the Saturday Even- 
ing Post, 

"Some wordmongers offer an easy 
solution — namely, just expropriate cap- 
ital and capitalists. But intelligent and 
candid socialists know that is not a solu- 
tion. John Spargo, for example, says: 

" ' Every serious student of the prob- 
lem has realized that the first great task 
of any socialist society must be to in- 
crease the productivity of labor. It is 
all very well for a popular propaganda 
among the masses to promise a great 
reduciion in the hours of labor and at the 
same time a great improvement in the 
standards of living. The translation of 
such promises into^ actual achievement 
must prove an enormous task.; fc To 
build the better homes, make the better 
and more abundant clothing, shoes, 
furniture and other things required to 
fulfill the promise will require a great 
deal of labor and such an organization 
of industry upon a basis of efficiency as 
no nation has yet developed. 

" 'If the working class of this or any 
other country should take possession of 
the existing organization of production, 
there would not be enough in the fund 
now going to the capitalist class to 
satisfy the requirements of the workers, 
even if not a penny of compensation were 
paid to the expropriated owners.' 

"For intelligent and candid socialists,, 
as well as for all other serious students,, 
the only solution, finally, is greater 
production, higher industrial efficiency. 
Now the efficiency of any industrial unit 
depends first of all upon the ability of 
the management — of the directing mind 
or minds. Whether it is a great railroad 
system or a corner fruit stand, picking a 
capable manager is the first step toward 
getting that unit to function properly. 



EDITORIALS 



191 



Without that step no other steps will 
answer." 

Hence capable management is the 
first great need of the hour, and the 
second is efficient industrial labors 

PROFITEERING 

PROFITEERING is not confined to 
the limits of the United States alone; 
it is a menace to peace and prosperity the 
world over. According to an English 
publication, The Table, "It has been sug- 
gested by the Secretary of the Ministry 
of Food that, to check the operations of 
the profiteers, it might be desirable to re- 
enact the old Statutes, which were 
amended seventy-five years ago, against 
Forestalling, Increasing, and Regrating. 
These made it a criminal offence to buy 
up large quantities of any article for the 
purpose of re-selling it at an unreason- 
able price — in modern parlance, corner- 
ing — or to practice any artifice or de- 
vice for enhancing the price of victuals. 

"The proposal seems to be a judicious 
one, for it appears that in the matter of 
protecting the public against the opera- 
tions of trusts and trade combinations, 
Great Britain is almost alone among the 
countries of the world in the laisser faire 
attitude which it has maintained. Under 
the Japanese law a punishment involving 
the compulsory winding-up of a business 
concern is imposed, while China has 
recourse to her favorite argumentum 
ad hominem, and punishes the delinquent 
with a sound thrashing of eighty blows. 
It has even been proposed in France that 
profiteering in food should be made a 
capital offence." 

No matter what is done to check this 
outcome of war methods, the continued 
practice of profiteering can be regarded as 
little less than criminal. 

PROFIT AND LOSS 

IT is self-evident no kind of business 
can be conducted for any considerable 
length of time at a loss. Workmen must 
earn their wages and something more, or 
the concern for which they work will 



soon go into bankruptcy. Many a 
small farmer, for instance, cannot afford 
to hire needful help simply because his 
farm cannot be made sufficiently pro- 
ductive to pay the increased wages de- 
manded by the workmen. The proofs 
of these things are to be seen in the 
status of business concerns on every 
hand. Profit-sharing, as suggested by 
some, is all right, but do we ever hear 
of workmen proposing to share in the 
losses that are likely to occur even in well- 
managed industries? 

Let us eliminate profiteering of every 
sort and description — especially in the 
necessities of life. Let us cease tt> 
spread broadcast the seeds of selfish and 
deceitful propaganda. Let us all settle 
down in the earnest, steady pursuit of 
productive enterprises. In our govern- 
mental affairs we need at this time to 
be subjected less to baneful effects of 
partisan politics and to derive greater 
benefit from the benign influence of 
generous statesmanship. 

THE QUESTION OF HELP 

NOT only is the cost of foodstuffs a 
perplexing subject in way of social 
readjustments, but the preparation or 
cooking of foods is likewise troublesome 
and difficult of accomplishment. 

Something of the domestic difficulty 
in America, as seen by foreign eyes, may 
be indicated by the following item of 
correspondence taken from an Exchange: 

"The servant question here, in Amer- 
ica, writes a correspondent of the Evening 
Standard, is so serious that it is a, very 
exceptional woman who can boast of 
having kept any kind of household 
servant a year. And if you have not 
one, you simply cannot get one without 
paying her an enormous wage, giving her 
all the privileges she wants and recon- 
ciling yourself to the fact that she will not 
wear a uniform of any sort and may not 
wear an apron if she does not wish. 

Most housewives do their own work 
if they have small families, others have 
given up the effort to keep house and 



192 AMERICAN COOKERY 

live permanently at hotels, and the years have set up in men's minds — 
boarding schools cannot cope with the reacting upon a sense of labor's strong 
applications they have, because dis- position at present. It goes on the idea 
tracted mothers want to send their that labor can afford to show its speed, 
children off to school since they cannot irrespective of whether it has any par- 
get servants to look after them. Oc- ticular destination and of the rules of the 
casionally groups of women in a country road. 

town arrange to have one servant among But no position was ever strong 
them. She spends three hours at each enough for a spendthrift. Irresponsi- 
house doing the heavy work or just ble, reckless striking is a mere squander- 
whatever she is told to do, and as there ing of that much of labor's strength. 
are four women who have her she gets Joy striking is as serious an obstacle to 
four times as much as she would other- collective bargaining as any that the 
wise, so she is satisfied. She changes most Bourbon employer can impose, 
the hours, so each woman gets her some- There is obviously no more use in a 
times in the morning, again in the after- collective bargain than in a bargain of 
noon. It does not sound very satis- any other sort if it is not really binding 
factory, but the women who are trying on both parties; no use in dealing with 
the experiment declare it works all chosen representatives of labor if they 
right." do not represent. 

THE NEED OF ECONOMY , T h * best s k tudents ° f J h ° "^^on now 

look tor a shortage of labor, or at least 

IF ever economy was called for, it is very full employment of labor, as a con- 
now. In war-time, the need was dition to be counted on for an indefinite 
more evident, but not more real. We period — instead of that unemployment 
could make it very personal then by which a good many people thought they 
saying we were saving meat, wheat, and foresaw six months ago. So far as we 
sugar that the soldiers might not lack are able to see there is nothing on the 
those essentials. We rallied to Mr. horizon to gainsay that prophecy, with 
Hoover's standard, for we knew that the possible exception of extensive inter- 
we were at war and to secure victory in ference with production, demoralization 
war meant self-denial and the husband- of industry and discouragement of enter- 
ing of resources. Our mental fallacy prise through needless strikes, 
lies in thinking that the war is over. — The Saturday Evening Post. 

Peace may have been signed, but the 

economic disturbance has not subsided. Looking Backward 

The waves are still running high. Cau- TT .... ... 

"? . How did the aborigines 

tion is yet necessary or the boat may Improve each shining hour? 

capsize. The people who are spending To gather money all the day, 

money lavishly for jewels and other Was not within their power. 

non-essentials are rocking the boat. fr took no skill to build a home; 

— The Christian Register. They had to pay no tax. 

Since business hours meant naught to them, 

JOY STRIKERS They never craved "'"■ 

Tttt? i u •* * t. In works of labor or of skill, 

HE labor agitator who wants to They were so far behind, 

ignore compacts, v ignore duly No eight-hour days had Satan then 

chosen representatives of labor, and To work ' new sins to find - 

just step on the gas and let 'er go any- Our days, so tense, oft make me think — 

how is having quite an inning now. It I know 'twill make you smile — 

is a phase of the deep and general dis- l \ v± * *° b * a " * h ™ g ;> 

. r ... r i 1 r ^ or J ust a "ttle while! 

turbance which events of the last five — Blanche Elizabeth Wade. 




HALLOWEEN CAKE (RECIPE OX PAGE 185) 

Seasonable and Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour 

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour. 



Veal-and-Ham Pie 

(Old English Recipe) 

PREPARE a breast of veal for stew- 
ing and let simmer very slowly till 
tender. Place under a weight to 
shape for slicing and when cold cut in 
thin slices. Trim two sweet-breads; 
parboil slowly; place in fresh boiling 
water, seasoned, and allow to simmer only 
long enough to cook the sweet-breads 
without toughening. Place in cheese- 
cloth squares and twist to form a ball. 
Set away to cool. Boil four eggs in shell 
for thirty minutes and allow to cool. 
Have ready also a pint of veal stock 
fine-flavored and stiffened, if necessary, 
with gelatine. Combine with this a cup 
of rich cream slightly thickened with 
gelatine, if the pie is to be served the 
day it is made. A few truffles sliced thin 
and a few mushroom caps sliced are a 



decided addition. Make a light, short 
paste and place a layer around the 
"ledge" of the pie-dish; fill the dish with 
alternate layers of the sliced veal, sweet- 
breads cut in slices, egg, and fine large 
oysters. Sprinkle the mushrooms and 
truffles on each layer and also use a very 
small amount of powdered "fine herbs" 
and fresh parsley minced very fine. 
Mix all these together and keep to one 
side. Add two gratings of nutmeg and 
do not use more than one-fourth of a 
teaspoonful of this seasoning for a large 
pie. Drop the stock evenly on each 
layer. Make the last layer of thin boiled 
ham or thin Windsor bacon boiled for 
ten minutes. Add the stock. Cover 
with the paste and bake in a moderately 
hot oven till the top is an even, light 
brown. Brush lightly with milk and 
return to the oven to finish browning. 
Serve either hot or cold. 



193 



194 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Yankee Boy Steak 

Have a flank steak or the choice of the 
round, ground up very fine. One pound 
will make eight good-sized balls. Have 
ready one sweet green pepper, minced 
very fine, and one slice of onion, also 
minced fine. Flatten the meat into a 
large cake and sprinkle with salt, pepper 
and as much ground nutmeg as can be 
held^on the sharp point of a knife. Mix 
thoroughly; add the vegetables and one 
egg, well beaten. At last, add half a cup 
of cracker dust. When all is combined 
evenly, shape into balls and sear over 
quickly in plenty of hot fat. Reduce 



Firmety 

Firmety is a form of porridge much 
used in the north of England, especially 
in Yorkshire. The long cooking re- 
quired may be given in the oven of a 
range that is always heated, or in a 
double boiler or the fireless. Into a stone 
or granite vessel put one pound of 
crushed wheat and three pints of skim 
milk. Stir occasionally and add water 
or milk as necessary. Cook for twelve 
hours. The porridge will keep for a week 
in a cool place, well covered. To serve, 
allow three tablespoonfuls of the por- 
ridge to each cup of milk (new), a table- 









Jjj 




■ ■ ... ■■.-■.. 


i 



YANKEE BOY STEAK 



the temperature and cook for half an 
hour, turning often. Ten minutes before 
serving drain off all the fat except a 
couple of spoonfuls. Drop in two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and stir well. Allow 
to brown nicely and add enough milk to 
make a smooth sauce. There should be 
only enough to coat the balls nicely; 
serve all together. 

Brussels Sprouts with Yankee 
Boy Steak 

Parboil the sprouts in soda water, as 
directed for succotash, first looking the 
sprouts over carefully. Cover with boil- 
ing salted water, and cook without a 
cover till tender; drain thoroughly and 
coat with melted butter. 



spoonful of sugar, a sprinkling of cinna- 
mon or nutmeg and a spoonful of stoned 
raisins. Serve either hot or cold. If the 
porridge is the chief form of nourishment, 
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs may be 
added to a quart of porridge. Cream 
may be substituted for the egg. Barley 
may be substituted for the wheat and 
nutmeg used alone. 

Potatoes a TOtero 

This makes an attractive and delicious 
dish for breakfast or luncheon. Select 
large, well-formed potatoes as nearly 
uniform in size as possible. Scrub 
thoroughly and bake in a hot oven. 
When done split in half, lengthwise, and 
scoop out the inside without breaking the 
skin. Turn into a hot bowl and mash 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



195 




POTATOES A L'OTERO 



thoroughly; season with salt, pepper and 
butter. Add just enough hot milk to 
make a smooth mass, but rather dry. 
Beat till very light with a fork and pile 
in a neat border around the edge of each 
potato shell; also place a thin layer on the 
bottom. 

Arrange the cases on a baking tin, and 
in the hollow center of each place a small 
filet of whitefish, which has been rolled 
and sauted while the potatoes were being 
prepared. Drop tiny bits of butter on the 
border and a few buttered crumbs on the 
fish. Slip into a hot oven or under the 
broiler to brown lightly. Creamed fish 
may be used instead of the filet. Instead 
of fish an egg may be slipped, without 
beating, into the case. For luncheon, 
sprinkle grated cheese over the egg and 
on the border. Pan-broiled oysters, nicelv 
seasoned, are also fine. 

Oysters a la Mornay 

Allow two oysters for each half shell 
or one service. Poach the oysters in their 



own broth. To serve eight, prepare a 
generous cup of Mornay sauce. Put a 
scant tablespoonful of sauce in each shell 
and on this dispose two of the poached 
oysters; cover with a tablespoonful of 
the sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese and 
melted butter, and glaze in a very hot 
oven. Serve at once. Use the deep 
part of the shell; before filling these set 
them on a shallow pan of salt, that they 
may stand level during cooking. To 
serve set on hot, folded napkins laid on 
individual plates. A slice of bacon 
rolled and cooked is an agreeable ad- 
dition. 

Mornay Sauce 

To a pint of hot Bechamel sauce made 
with fish stock beat in two ounces, each, 
of Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Let 
the sauce remain over the fire until the 
cheese is melted, then remove and 
gradually beat in, in bits, one-fourth a 
cup of butter. The addition of the 
cheese is the feature of the sauce, and 




OYSTERS A LA MORXAY 



196 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



when the sauce is to be used with other 
articles than fish — this does not often 
occur — any white stock may be used. 

Onion Dumplings with Potato 
Crust 

Select onions of medium and uniform 
size. Cook in boiling, salted water, 
uncovered, till transparent. Cut rounds 
of paste, allowing a margin of one-fourth 
of an inch all round. Allow one round 
for each onion. Cut an equal number of 
similar rounds and cut from the center 
of each a small round. Place an onion 
on the large round, wet the edges lightly, 
place the ring of paste over and press 
down lightly. Drop a bit of butter and 
some pepper and salt on the onion. Put 



half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder thoroughly blended. 
Work into this two tablespoonfuls of 
butter. Add the flour mixture gradually 
to the potato with just enough cold water 
to make a firm dough (not more than 
damp). Turn out on a floured board. 
Knead lightly and quickly into a smooth 
ball. Pin out into an oblong three or four 
times longer than wide, and not more than 
one-eighth of an inch thick. Brush lightly 
with melted butter and roll the paste into 
a cylinder. Make into an oblong again 
and repeat the first process. Do this 
four times in all, forming the dough into a 
large sheet the last time, about one- 
eighth an inch thick. This paste bakes 
more slowly than the ordinary kind and 




ONION DUMPLINGS WITH POTATO CRUST 



on to baking sheet and slip into a moder- 
ate oven. When nicely browned serve 
with a spoonful of rich cream sauce on 
top of each dumpling. If preferred, the 
paste can be cut into squares and the 
points gathered together on top. 

Potato Paste for Onion Dumplings, 
Meat and Vegetable Pies 

Pare and slice enough white potatoes 
to fill a cup when mashed. When 
tender (but not soft) drain well and dry 
over the flame for a second. Mash en- 
tirely free from lumps; add two table- 
spoonfuls of butter and beat all till very 
light. Have ready one cup of flour, one- 



must be thoroughly done and nicely 
browned. It is used as top only. 

Ginger Baked Apples 

Pare and core large tart apples. Fill 
the cavity with fine-chopped preserved 
ginger. Arrange in a baking dish with a 
good supply of syrup made of apple, 
crab or light grape jelly, some of the 
syrup from the preserved ginger and the 
juice of one lemon. Use a moderate oven 
and baste the apples frequently. Con- 
tinue the basting after the apples are 
baked and are cooling, in order to glaze 
them nicely with the jelly. Top each 
apple with a spoonful of whipped cream 



SEASONABLE AXD TESTED RECIPES 



197 




GINGER BAKED APPLES 



when serving. If the apples are very 
tart, more sugar may be needed in the 
basting syrup. 

Ginger Cream 

Make a custard of the volks of four 
eggs and the whites of two, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
syrup from preserved ginger, and one 
pint of milk. Just before the custard 
is done, add as much previously softened 
gelatine as is required of the brand you 
are using for a pint of liquid. Allow 
plenty of time for the gelatine to become 
completely dissolved in the hot custard. 
As soon as the mixture coats the spoon 
smoothly, stand the vessel in cold water 
to arrest cooking, and then turn the 
custard into molds. Sprinkle each mold 
with chopped, preserved ginger. 

Apple Charlotte 

Butter a small, oval Charlotte mold. 



Cut a thin slice of bread, just the size 
and shape of the bottom of the mold, and 
another for the top of the mold. Spread 
both sides of the bread with butter. Put 
one slice in the bottom of the mold, now 
line the inner walls of the mold with 
moderately thin strips of bread, buttered 
on both sides. Within the case place 
layers of apples cut small, with orange 
marmalade or apricot jam spread be- 
tween; add, also, to each layer a light 
sprinkling of sugar and a little melted 
butter, and let bake till done; serve with 
cream and sugar and custard. 

Raisin Pie with Meringue 

Line a pie-dish with pastry and fill with 
the following: Beat the yolks of two eggs; 
add one cup of sugar, the grated yellow 
rind and the juice of one lemon, a pinch 
of salt and a cup of chopped, seedless 
raisins. Add a little water if the mix- 
ture seems dry or, better still, cook the 




APPLE CHARLOTTE 



198 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



raisins for a few minutes till plump and 
use the water with the raisins. Bake in 
a moderate oven and when cool cover 
with a meringue made of the whites of 
the eggs. Beat the whites till stiff, but 
not dry. Add, gradually, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and continue beating 
till the mixture retains its shape when 
piled up. Slip into a warm oven to dry 
slowly at first, increasing the heat for 
browning. 

Uncooked Fruit Whips 

The amateur cook and the house- 
mother forced to do without a serving 
maid will hail the uncooked fruit souffle 



reach, because the flavor depends on the 
kind of fruit used; the proportions remain 
the same. 

Proportions for Fruit Whip 

Beat four or five egg-whites very stiff. 
They are stiff enough when the bowl can 
be turned upside down without the egg- 
whites slipping out. Have ready one 
cup of fruit pulp, into which has been 
stirred one-half cup of sugar and the 
juice of half a lemon. Fold this very 
carefully into the beaten whitejs and turn 
into the serving dish; put into the ice 
box till serving time. Use the yolks to 
make a soft custard and pour this around 




UNCOOKED FRUIT WHIPS 



as her staunchest ally. Any one who 
considers the high cost of living will also 
consider the uncooked fruit souffle. It 
does away with all oven worry and makes 
no feverish demands for hurried serving. 
The rules for its successful making are 
few, and fruits that would otherwise be 
prohibitive for a large family are satis- 
factorily "stretched" in their original, 
natural flavor, so that the family thinks 
it is enjoying summer as in the days when 
prices were within reach. 

The conditions for the successful mak- 
ing of an uncooked fruit souffle are few 
and simple, but insistent. Everything 
must be absolutely cold. Eggs must be 
fresh, and beaten to the last degree of 
lightness. An infinite variety is within 



(not over) the whip when serving. Either 
fresh or dried fruits may be used, the 
dried ones being first soaked over night 
and cooked till soft. Seedy fruits should 
be pressed through a sieve in order to 
remove the seeds. Almonds, chopped 
very fine and sprinkled over the top of 
an apricot whip, give a pretty touch, and 
pistachio nuts are pretty with straw- 
berries or pineapple. 

Delicate Cake with Fudge Frosting 

\ cup butter 2 teaspoonfuls baking 

1 cup sugar powder 

2 egg-yolks \ teaspoonful mace 
| cup milk 2 egg-whites, beaten 
If cups flour very light 

Mix and bake in a pan about six by ten 

inches and cover with Fudge Frosting. 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



199 




DELICATE CAKE WITH FUDGE FROSTING 



Fudge Frosting 

Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot 
water; add two cups of sugar and one 
cup of milk, and stir while the sugar 
gradually melts. When the boiling-point 
is about reached, beat vigorously and let 
cook to the soft-ball stage, about 236° F. 
Remove from the fire, add a teaspoonful 
of butter, and let stand until cold, then 
beat until creamy and spread on the cake. 



Fudge Cake with Fruit and 
Marshmallow Filling 

In a granite pan melt two squares of 
Baker's unsweetened chocolate. Add 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, one cup of 
powdered sugar and one-half cup of milk. 
Stir well and cook till the "fudge" begins 
to thicken perceptibly. Add the yolks 
of two eggs, beaten in another half cup 
of milk. Continue cooking till the mass 




MATERIALS FOR MAKING MARMALADES 



200 



. AMERICAN COOKERY 




ORANGE JACK-O-LANTERN 

is quite jelly-like. Set aside to cool. 
When almost cold stir in one teaspoon- 
ful of baking soda, dissolved in a little 
water. If the soda is added while the 
mixture is hot, the cake will be red in color 
and taste of the soda. Stir in one cup 
and two-thirds of flour. Bake in two 
square layers. The baking will take but 
a short time since everything is cooked 
except the flour. This insures a tender 
texture. 

Filling for Fudge Cake 

Stir two cups of granulated sugar and 
one-fourth a cup of water until the sugar 
is dissolved. Boil slowly until the syrup 
drops from the end of the spoon and flies 
in a thread. Just before boiling add two 
squares of sweetened chocolate. Beat 
the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and 
pour the syrup over in a fine stream, beat- 
ing all the time. Have half a pound of 
marshmallows, cut into fourths (with the 
scissors), and drop these into the finished 
icing. Do not stir or attempt to cover 
the pieces with the icing any more than 
happens from using the icing. It is not 
desirable to melt the marshmallows. 
Have ready, also, three-fourths a cup of 
chopped raisins and the same of pecan 
meats, sliced thin. Place a thin coating 
of the icing on the top of each layer, then 
a layer of raisins and nuts and another 
layer of icing. Have everything ready 
to use as soon as the icing is ready and 
divide the portions evenly. 

Spice Cake 

Cream together one-half cup of butter 
and two cups of brown sugar. Add 
three eggs and beat till the mass is very 
light. Stir one-half teaspoonful of baking 



soda into one-half cup of New Orleans 
molasses and add to the cake mixture 
with one-half cup of strong coffee and 
three-fourths a cup of sweet cream. Mix 
lightly before adding three cups of flour, 
into one cup of which has been stirred 
three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
two level tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 
one tablespoonful of cloves, one tea- 
spoonful of ginger, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of black pepper and the same of 
nutmeg or mace. Add this cup first and 
as much of the remaining two cups as are 
needed. Bake in a loaf and cover with 
chocolate icing. 

Chocolate Icing 

Boil together for five minutes two 
cups of granulated sugar and one-half 
cup of water. Add three ounces of 
chocolate and cook till a little dropped 
in cold water makes a hard ball. Add 
four eggs well beaten. Cook five min- 
utes, stirring all the time. Take from 
the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. 
This is good for coating cream puffs and 
eclairs and for tops of layer cakes. It 
cuts well and does not crack. 




COLONIAL BON-BON DISH 



SEASONABLE AND TESTED RECIPES 



201 



"Torchy" Marmalade 

Select carrots of a rich orange color. 
Scrape and slice crosswise very thin. 
Cover with water and cook till tender, 
but do not stir as this will break the 
slices. When tender enough to be 
pierced with a straw, drain carefully. 
Add an equal amount of sugar and the 
juice and grated yellow rind of one 
lemon for each pint of carrots. Let 
stand half an hour and add as much 
water as necessary to cook the carrots 
till clear. Reduce the syrup as much as 
possible without scorching. Add as much 
orange jelly as carrots and allow to be- 
come thoroughly hot. Drop the carrots 
into small retainers, adding with each 
layer a few large, seedless raisins. Fill 
up with the jelly and seal. 

"Penrod and Sam" Marmalade 

This is well named for several reasons. 
It is thoroughly good, unusually good, in 
fact, and is made from what some would 
scarcely consider good salvage. Its basis 
is the material left in the jelly bag when 
making orange jelly. Xo one but the 
skilful and economical juggler with 
flavors and fruits can say just what other 
things go to the making of this marma- 
lade. The contents of the bag are 
turned into a preserving kettle and an 
equal amount of sugar is added. Just 
enough water to reach the top of the 
fruit is added and the whole is cooked 
till the skins become transparent. At 
this point other fruits may be added. A 
few peaches may be left from lunch; a 
glass of rhubarb sauce may be added, and 
two or three figs may be sliced and added. 
Half a dozen large raisins or a fine large 
prune sliced lengthwise into sixteen 
pieces — all these may be put together, 
keeping the sugar equal to each addition 
and cooking slowly. At the last an 
orange cut into fourths (without remov- 
ing the rind) and sliced very thin cross- 
wise will make a pretty addition. There 
is always a chance that a squeeze of lemon 
juice will prove to .be needed to give 
"point" to the flavor. A glass of apple 



jelly or a generous portion of the orange 
jelly will certainly not do any harm. 
The fact is, this marmalade may not "find 
itself" till the fruit season is over. 

Carrot Pie 

One cup of stewed carrots, one cup of 
hot milk, one-half cup of sugar, one-half 
teaspoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of all- 
spice, one egg well beaten, a pinch of salt. 
Bake in one crust. An extra egg-yolk 
mav be used and the white made into a 
meringue. 

Carrot Pudding 

One-half cup of grated raw potato, 
one-half cup of grated carrot, one-half 
cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of chopped 
suet, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one- 
half teaspoonful of allspice, one-third tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-half cup of flour, one 
teaspoonful of baking powder and one-half 
cup of raisins. Steam in individual cups. 

Apple Slump 

This is a " first-aid " dessert. If slipped 
into the oven just as the family sit down 
to a simple dinner, it will be ready for the 
dessert course. Select tart apples that 
cook well. Pare and slice as for apple 
sauce. Add sugar, a tablespoonful of 
butter and a little water, and cook on top 
of the stove. Mix two cups of flour, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and three 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat 
one egg very light and add one tablespoon- 
ful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, and one cup of milk. Add to the 
flour, beat well and pour over the boiling 
apple sauce after dusting it with cinna- 
mon. Turn an inverted, deep pan over 
the top at once, and keep closely covered 
and steaming vigorously for ten minutes. 
Slip into the oven ten minutes before 
leaving the kitchen and remove the cover 
at the end of that time. It is necessary 
to keep the sauce steaming when the 
batter is poured over and afterwards, as 
the light texture depends on this. For 
the same reason it is necessary to keep the 
batter closely covered until the mixture 
is safelv "set." 



Simple Well-Balanced Meals for 

ONE WEEK IN OCTOBER 



< 

CO 



Breakfast 

Ripe Pears 

Firmety, Top of Milk 

Mushroom Caps in Bacon 

Cornmeal Muffins (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal-and-Ham Pie 

Creamed Potatoes 

Tomato Salad 

Jellied Peaches 

Oatmeal Cookies 

Coffee 

Supper 

Cottage Cheese 

Boston Brown Bread 

Chocolate Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Iced Cantaloupe 

Flummery, Top of Milk 

Liver and Bacon 

Buttered Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Jellied Salmon 

Creamed Potatoes 

Spiced Beet Pickles 

Lemon Pie 

Tea 

Dinner 

Veal Stew with Dumplings 

Baked Potatoes 

Endive Salad 

Apricot Charlotte Russe 

Coffee 



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o 



Breakfast 

Baked Ginger Apples 

Baked Hash 

Sour-Milk Whole- Wheat Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Turkish Rice 

Rolls (reheated) 

Stewed Prunes 

Macaroons 

Tea 

Dinner 

Roast Loin of Pork 

Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Sour Cabbage 

Apple Shortcake 



Breakfast 

Jellied Figs 

Barley Porridge 

Oatmeal Sausage 

Buttered Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Florentine Soup Cheese Crackers 

Eggplant, Turkish Style 

Pineapple-and-Cream-Cheese Salad 

Tea 

Dinner 

Fillet of Beef with Banana Croquettes 

Brussels Sprouts 

Buttered Lima Beans 

Tomato Glace Salad 

Ginger Cream 

Sponge Cake 

Coffee 



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a 



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P 
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Q 

P 
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Breakfast 




Breakfast 




Oranges 




Rice Balls with Prune Centers 




Puffed Rice, Top of Milk 




Bacon Fritters 




^Potatoes a l'Otero 




Scalloped Potatoes 




t Corn Bread 




Baking Powder Biscuits 




Coffee Cocoa 




Coffee Cocoa 




Luncheon 




Luncheon 




Cream of Parsnip Soup 




Cream of Tomato Soup 


*S 


Stuffed Green Peppers 




Scalloped Oysters 




Floating Island 




Corn Relish 


O 


Sugar Cookies 




Hot Gingerbread, Whipped Cream 


> 


Tea 




Tea 


*< 


Dinner 




Dinner 




Planked Steak with Fried Oysters 


Stuffed Baked Fish 




Mashed Potatoes 




Mattre d' Hotel Potatoes 




Buttered Carrots 




Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 




Celery-and-Cabbage Salad 




Cucumber Salad 




Peach Shortcake 




Plum Pie 




Coffee 




Coffee 




Breakfast 


Luncheon Dinner 




Grapefruit Clam Broth with Whipped Creamed Chicken in Bread Box 


Oatmeal Porridge, Top of Milk 


Cream French Fried Potatoes 


French Omelet 


Corn on Ear Stewed Corn with Green Peppers 


Bacon 


Cold Sliced Mutton Pershing Salad 


Popovers 


Sweet Potato Pie Raisin Meringue Tarts 


Coffee Cocoa 


Tea Coffee 




2( 


32 








Menus for Special Occasions 



Menus for High School Lunch Counter 



Cottage Cheese, Celery 

Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches 

Milk 

Baked Ginger Apples with Cream 

White Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Meat Loaf 

Milk 

Baked Spaghetti with Cheese Sauce 

Bread and Butter 

Milk 

Dried Green Pea Soup 

Jellied Salmon 

Cornmeal Muffins (cold) 

Cocoa 



Banana Cake 

Junket Topped with Whipped Cream and 

Powdered Caramel 

Cocoa 

Cream of Tomato Soup,'Celery 

Baking Powder Biscuits, Cheese 

Cocoa 

Apple Shortcake with Whipped Cream 
Cocoa 

Florentine Soup with Whipped Cream 

"Coffee Bread" 

Tea 



Buffet Refreshments for Receptions in October 



I 

Clam Cocktail in Tomato Baskets 

Timbale Molds of Chicken, Tongue and Ham 

with Mayonnaise 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuits 

Diamonds of Fancy Cake 

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea 



III 

Tiny Finger Rolls, Toasted, Centers Filled 

with Creamed Chicken and Oysters 

Piccalilli, Ripe and Green Olives, Tiniest Gherkins 

Tomato Glace Salad, Nut Sandwiches 

Peach Ice Cream, Fancy Cakes 

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea 



II 

Fried Oysters with Celery-and-Cabbage Salad 

Tiny Cheese Puffs 

Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches 

White Bread Sandwiches with Nut Filling 

One-Two-Three Dessert 

Hot Coffee, Chocolate, Tea 



IV 

Clam Broth with Whipped Cream 

Jellied Chicken on Lettuce Hearts 

Beaten Biscuits 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Fudge Cake, Angel Cake 



The Art of the Chopping-Bowl 

By F. M. Christianson 



OLD things give place to new. With 
the coming of the meat-chopper or, 
more properly, crusher, the chopping 
block and bowl have been discarded and 
one rarely hears of or even sees a chopping- 
bowl in the homes of today. 

Even horseradish, which our mothers 
never thought could be made good in any 
other way than by grating, is today forced 
through the meat-chopper, ruining the 
horseradish, which comes out a coarse, 
"choppy" looking mess, full of hard 
particles. The grater permits of shredding 
the roots very fine and one can discard all 
the hard parts as the grating goes on. 

The poor way is the quick way. The 
good housewife will not sacrifice good food 
and health for speed, but will do it the 
better way. Hash is a fine dish, or should 
be, which the majority of people turn up 
their noses at because it is made from 
meat-gristle, cartilage and bone forced 
through the meat-crusher; this fines it in 
a certain way, but when the unseemly 
mixture is mixed with potato and heated 
up, it is anything but a palatable dish, 
because one is constantly biting into a 
piece of gristle or bone. 

Just a little good beef left over and a 
little gravy can be made the basis of an 
appetizing dish when it is prepared in the 
right way. 

Place the meat, after all bone, gristle 
and tough membranes have been removed, 
in a clean chopping-bowl and with a good 
chopping-knife chop the meat till very 
fine, and as the chopping proceeds the bits 
of gristle and sinews that are too tough to 



be cut will come to the top where they may 
be removed, and finally you'll have a fine, 
evenly chopped, tasty meat in your bowl. 

A cup of this meat to one cup and 
one-half of left-over mashed potatoes is 
a good proportion for hash. If the left- 
over potatoes are not mashed, put them 
in with the meat, now, and continue 
the chopping till all are incorporated with 
the meat. 

Place in a cast-iron frying-pan, pre- 
ferably. Season with pepper and salt. 
Add gravy and a little beef-dripping, 
if the meat is lean. Put over all enough 
water to moisten it nicely. Let the 
hash-mixture heat through quickly and 
then let cook slowly, stirring now and then 
for three-fourths or one hour, insuring 
a fine deep brown crust when ready to 
serve, which will be on hot plates, of 
course. 

This is a dish truly fit for a king. 
So often do our people clamor for hash 
that I have many times gone to the 
butcher and bought good round beef- 
steak and fried it well done, and as soon 
as cool enough to handle prepared it for 
the chopping-bowl, for hash. 

"Can't we have hash for supper ? ,: ' is 
a remark often heard in our home. 
There is a reason. I have tried to ac- 
count for it. 

Every home should have at least two 
chopping-bowls." One for meats, nuts, 
etc., which should never be used for 
chopping onions, etc. A chopping-bowl 
should be properly washed and dried as 
soon as one is through using it. That is 



204 



THE ART OF THE CHOPPIXG-BOWL 



205 



the only way to keep it in the best con- 
dition. 

Raisins, nuts, peel, etc., are much 
nicer chopped in the chopping-bowl. 

Raw beef, chopped on the block, is 
much nicer for dumplings in soups than 
when put through the meat-crusher. 

In preparing mincemeat: If good cook- 
ing apples be stewed as for apple- 
sauce, instead of chopping them, and the 
meat, sugar, suet, and spice be added, 
you get a superior mincemeat. 

" Eat the Crusts ' 

EAT the crusts, dear," grandfather 
used to say to me when on those 
delightful never-to-be-forgotten child- 
hood visits to grandpa's house. 

Whether it was because of the dear old 
man's admonition and the love I bore 
I don't know, but I do know that I have 
always eaten crusts and do yet. In 
childhood I ate crusts because my elders 
said it was right to eat them, and as I 
grew up and went to high school and 
college, I took a more than passing inter- 
est in chemistry, and then I discovered 
the real reason why one should eat 
crusts. How pleased I was when I 
came across a sensible reason! I remem- 
ber the joy of that day yet and many 
others. This was the reason: The heat 
of the oven has a particular effect on the 
starch and sugar contained in the flour 
of the wheat and changes it into dextrine, 
and the greatest amount of dextrine is 
found in the crusts, so that the crusts of 
bread are the most easily taken care of by 



the stomach. And so I have always 
eaten crusts and, since adolescence, from 
choice. 

There is not a finer dish, to my mind, 
than a bowl of our pure Jersey milk, 
with a generous handful of bread crusts 
nicely cut up and put in. 

Just put a quart of milk into a granite 
saucepan, add the crust, place on stove 
and let come just to a boil. It will re- 
fresh you, cure fatigue and satisfy all 
your demands for a supper. Try it. 

Every one who has traveled in Sweden 
will remember the thin, round, flat cakes 
of bread they have there. Dough is 
rolled out till about one inch thick and 
put in round, shallow pans, like our pie- 
tins. The dough is then pricked all over 
with a fork and set to raise a little time 
and then baked. This thin cake gives 
a good crust on both sides. It is cut 
into narrow strips. Then an individual 
splits a strip through the middle and 
adds a generous supply of good butter 
and it's an ideal bread. I persuaded the 
home folk to like it and now we all eat 
it. The idea was to get as much 
crust on the bread as possible. These 
northern nations are ever on the alert to 
find ways of better health. The coarse 
rye-bread, the chief bread of the peas- 
antry, is largely responsible for their 
strength and vigor. 

Rye-bread is certainly the finest natural 
dentrifice that I have ever used. After 
eating rye-bread for a day or two your 
teeth become a pearly white and remain 
so as long as you eat this bread. 



Safe and Sane Canning and Preserving 

By Emma Gary Wallace 



IT is high time to begin thinking about 
canning and preserving for another 
season, for fruits and vegetables must be 
done when thev are in season. 

During the war it was very necessary 



that supplies should be prepared in the 
home in liberal quantities, in order to 
preserve perishable foods, and also to 
release labor wherever possible. Some 
housewives, however, went to the ex- 



206 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



treme, and canned and preserved much 
larger quantities of food than their 
families could consume. 

It was only the other day that a worried 
housewife said to me: "I feel as though I 
never wanted to see a bit of canned or 
preserved fruit, or a canned vegetable, 
as long as I live. We have eaten fran- 
tically of the supplies I put up all winter, 
and there are as many left now as we have 
used. When fresh asparagus came into 
the market, I still had quantities of the 
canned variety, and my family no longer 
enjoyed that, once they got a taste of the 
new; neither did they have the same 
appetite for it that they would have had, 
had I not been urging asparagus upon 
them over-much to get it used up before 
the fresh was in season." 

This is going to extremes, but many 
people do go to extremes, thinking that 
they are exercising thrift and foresight 
by such means. 

Quite the best way to do is to make 
an estimate of what the family is likely 
to use- and enjoy during the months when 
the fresh supplies are out of the market. 
For example, if fresh asparagus will be 
too high to use for six months in the 
year, and the family will enjoy an oc- 
casional meal of it served in some at- 
tractive way twice a month, a dozen 
cans will make such provision; or if they 
would like to use it oftener, a dozen and a 
half cans will give an ample supply. 
The housekeeper of whom I spoke kept on 
canning and canning each vegetable and 
fruit as long as its price was within her 
reach, regardless of how much she had 
put up. 

Then it is foolish, too, to can root vege- 
tables, which are with us all winter. 
Extra heat must be used in the summer to 
prepare them, and oftentimes they are 
not as satisfactory as when freshly pre- 
pared. If you were to go out to buy 
bread or milk, you would estimate how 
much you would need and could use in a 



given time, and the same idea is appli- 
cable to canned supplies. Many times 
it is just as well to let the family use up 
food supplies of a certain kind and to be 
without them for a short period before 
the fresh comes in, for then the appetite 
is keener and the enjoyment greater of 
the fresh items. 

It is much better to can six jars and 
have them just right, than sixteen hastily 
prepared and of indifferent quality. 
Vegetables especially cannot be success- 
fully canned unless freshly-gathered, or 
they will develop flat sour, which is both 
disagreeable and dangerous. Make ar- 
rangements to get supplies of the best 
and freshest for winter use. 

Many families, who have learned how 
much a well-balanced supply of home- 
canned goods can reduce the cost of living, 
are purchasing pressure canners of small 
size for individual use. Not only are 
gas and labor saved, but the results are 
much surer. In some cases, several 
housekeepers are purchasing pressure 
canners together, to be used among them. 
This makes it a little more convenient 
than to go to a Community Kitchen 
and take one's turn among a much larger 
number. Pressure canners can be used 
for other cooking also to good purpose, 
where there is a family of some size. 

Much of the canning and preserving 
which comes out unsatisfactorily is the 
result of guess methods. Materials are 
too high-priced to use except in a proper 
manner. Have a formula for making 
syrups, heavy and light, and get accurate 
and reliable directions for vegetable 
canning, then follow them to the letter. 

The prospects are that wheat and con- 
sequently flour and bread will be high for 
another year, and so it will be a good 
policy to put up such supplies in season 
as the average family can use; but can and 
preserve so that the foods will come out 
at their very best and there will be no 
left-overs in the spring. 








Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Made at Butchering Time 

EVERY scrap of meat should be util- 
ized, and when worked up into head- 
cheese, scrapple and the like, many 
palatable dishes can be made from parts 
that were formerly thrown away or con- 
sidered of little value. 

Not only the head, but the feet and 
other meat scraps, may be used in making 
headcheese. Clean the head, cut out 
the eyes and ear drums, boil it along 
with the other scraps of meat till the 
flesh separates readily from the bone. 
Remove all bits of bone, and run the 
meat through a food-chopper or sausage- 
grinder; add a little of the liquor in 
which the meat was boiled, in order to 
soften it, season with salt, pepper, sage 
or other condiments to suit the taste, 
and mold by weighting down in a pan or 
crock. It can be served cold sliced, 
fried in hot grease, or sliced in vinegar. 
It is a good practice to fold a piece of 
cheesecloth or muslin over the meat 
when it is pressed, and to pour off sur- 
plus liquid. 

Scrapple is made by boiling the meat 
just as you would for headcheese. Strain 
the liquor it was boiled in to remove all 
pieces of bone, and after the meat has 
been chopped fine, return it to the liquor, 
stir in sufficient corn meal to make a 
thick mush and cook for an hour. Season 
rather highly with salt, pepper and sage, 
or whatever suits the taste. Thyme 
and sweet marjoram or the prepared 
powder used for seasoning chile and 
tamales will give a flavor much relished 



pans, and when ready to use it, slice and 
fry quickly till brown. 

Hearts, livers and melts may be used 
in headcheese or scrapple. Another way 
to utilize them is by boiling till tender, 
running through the chopper and season- 
ing. Set away in a cool place, and serve 
by heating in a greased pan. 

Any of these products, as well as 
sausage, sparerib and steak, can be kept 
fresh through warm weather by putting it 
in jars and covering with melted lard. 
Sausage and other meat must be cooked 
in order to keep it in this way. 

Some Ways of Preparing Pop Corn 

Besides merely popping it and sprin- 
kling with salt or adding butter, pop 
corn may be made into several pal- 
atable confections. To get best results, 
the corn should be popped over a hot 
fire, but care should be taken not to 
scorch the popped grains. If a wire 
popper is used, hold it far enough from 
the blaze to prevent burning. The right 
degree of heat should make good corn 
begin to pop in about a minute and a half. 
Too great a heat will cause some of the 
grains to pop sooner, but many of them 
will not pop at all and those that pop 
will not be so flaky. If the grains pop 
well, the bulk should be increased by 
about twenty times. 

Some like pop corn with cream and 
sugar, in the form of breakfast food. 
When served this way, the popped grains 
may be eaten whole or ground up in a 
coffee-mill. The parched and poorly 
popped kernels are also used in this way 
by many. Put the scrapple in jars or when ground fine, and are superior to some 

207 



208 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



breakfast foods on the market. 

Chocolate pop corn is likely to be 
relished by every one. Take two teacups of 
sugar, half a cup of starch, two ounces of 
chocolate and a cup of water. Put into a 
sauce pan or kettle and boil till the 
syrup hardens when put in cold water. 
While hot pour this syrup over four 
quarts of freshly popped corn, and stir 
well to insure a uniform coating of the 
kernels. 

Sugared pop corn is quite popular. 
Make a syrup by boiling together two 
teacups of sugar to one of water. Boil 
until the syrup strings from the spoon 
or hardens when dropped into cold water. 
Pour the syrup over six quarts of pop 
corn, and stir till all is coated, and sepa- 
rated. 

To make pop corn balls requires a pint 
of syrup or molasses, either maple 
syrup, sugar molasses, sorghum or corn 
syrup, a pint of sugar, two tablespoonfuls 
of butter and a teaspoonful of vinegar. 
Cook till the syrup will harden in cold 
water, and add half a teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in a little hot water. Pour 
the hot syrup over four or five quarts of 
pop corn, stirring till each kernel is well 
coated, when it may be pressed with the 
hands into balls or molded into any form 
desired. h. f. g. 

* * * 

Improving Butter Beans 

TO make butter beans more digestible, 
cook more quickly, and be more 
palatable than ordinarily, soak and 
skin them. It takes time to do this, but 
they are so much better for it that it is 
well worth while. One is amazed at the 
bulk of the skins and quickly realizes 
why so many delicate stomachs are 
hurt by them. 

Beans so prepared cook to a pulp and 
the milk, butter, and seasoning can be 
beaten in as in mashed potatoes. 
Coloring and Flavoring Apples 
To sweeten, flavor and lend a beauti- 
ful pinkish color to either apple sauce 
or baked apples, place a few red 



cinnamon candies, w r hich the children 
call "red hots," into the water in which 
the fruit is cooked. Both the spice and 
the coloring will permeate to the very 
core of whole apples, making them 
unusually attractive to the eye as well as 
the palate. Very few of the candies are 
necessary for quite a large dishful. 

Cider Apple-Butter without Cider 

Any time in the winter a most de- 
licious butter that can scarcely be 
told from the old-fashioned cider apple 
butter may be made by boiling together 
with a little water one quart of cran- 
berries to one gallon of raw apples, the 
apples cored and cut up but not peeled. 
When soft, run this through a colander, 
season with sugar, brown preferred, 
cinnamon, allspice and a pinch of cloves 
according to taste; then boil down to the 
right consistency and put up in jars. 
The cranberries give a bright color and 
the tart taste of real cider. 

Selecting and Serving Pineapples 

To tell when a pineapple is really 
ripe, — no easy thing for the inexpe- 
rienced, — simply pull on the green 
"feathers" of its top. If these come out 
easily, it is fully ripe and juicy within. 

Instead of laboriously cutting it up, 
twist out one "eye" with a small knife, 
then loosen others next to it until they 
come out like so many pointed corks. 
If the pineapple be as ripe as it should be, 
they will almost fall out after the first 
little wedge is removed. Do not at- 
tempt to cut off the hard outer scale 
from each piece, but lay them in a circle 
upon individual plates, and put a small 
mound of sugar in the center. They 
are to be eaten as one does strawberries 
with the stems on them, dipping each 
wedge-shaped piece into the sugar and 
eating from the fingers. No juice is lost 
in this, the plates look very attractive 
on the table and the cook is saved both 
time and scars. One ordinary-sized p'ine- 
applewill serve four or five people, in this 
manner. l. mcc. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



209 



To Soften Paint Brushes 

TO soften an old paint brush in which 
the paint has been allowed to dry, 
heat some vinegar to the boiling-point, 
and allow the brush to simmer in it a few 
minutes. Remove and wash well in 
strong soapsuds, and the brush will be 
like new. 

Yolks of Eggs 

When making candies, frostings, cake 
or anything requiring only the whites 
of eggs, the housekeeper is sometimes 
puzzled as to the best way of utilizing 
the yolks. They may be kept fresh 
a surprising length of time if covered 
with cold water and kept in a cool 
place. They will not harden and may 
be used at any time in making salads, 
cake, cookies or anything one wishes 
to use them for. 

The Teakettle 

Do not slight the teakettle. It is one 
of the hardest-worked utensils of the 
kitchen, and we sometimes forget that 
it needs more attention than just a hasty 
wiping with the dishcloth. Not only 
keep it bright and shining on the outside, 
but take the trouble to empty it before 
each meal and fill with fresh water. To 
prevent the lime in the water from col- 
lecting on the bottom and sides of the 
teakettle, place in it a few common 
marbles, the kind the boys call "com- 
mies," and the lime will adhere to them 
and leave the inside of the kettle 
clean. 

Fig Preserves 

FILL a ten-pound lard bucket with 
white or black figs (black are best), 
split twice, crosswise, from blossom end of 
fig about halfway. Put them in a deep 
dish and cover with cold water, in which 
a full tablespoonful of medium strong 
lye has been dissolved; stir every two or 
three hours, and leave figs in solution 
thirty-six hours. Take them out and 
rinse well, first in cold water, then in hot 
water (not boiling), then cold, then hot, 



then cold. In the mean time have your 
syrup boiled, flavored with cinnamon and 
a few whole cloves in bags. Boil slowly 
for four hours or until fruit is transparent. 
It will keep for years. 

mrs. j. j. o'c. 



He j}: 



The Acid Test 

ALIEX acids fight, and when the 
combatants choose the human 
stomach for the prize-ring no wonder it 
aches in protest, and that indigestion is 
rampant. Said stomach is perfectlv 
tractable when we treat it rationally, but 
it roils under abuse. It is a very simple 
matter to take into consideration the 
combination of harmonious acids in 
planning home meals, thus escaping 
direful consequences, for it is the mad 
mixtures that hurt. 

When a person's liver and other organs 
are functioning properly, the owner 
feeling fine, he can "get away" with 
almost any food enormity without danger. 
But let Nature be limping along, with 
only part of the cylinders working, and 
meet the acid test, and there is generally 
a fee for the specialist. 

The perfect meal is that meal which, 
in the planning, considers only foods 
that will combine harmoniously. Grape- 
fruit, so popular as an appetizer, is an 
acid pure and simple. It should not be 
followed by a tomato soup, a fish salad, 
with a sour dressing, an acid fruit pie or 
vegetables like turnips, beans, celery, 
cabbage or other known gassy foods. 

Proceed, rather, in this way: Grape- 
fruit, cream of lettuce or pea soup, baked 
sweet or white potatoes with the meat 
course, peas, string beans or asparagus, 
followed by an egg or cream-cheese salad, 
, a pudding, hot or cold, fancy jelly or 
Spanish cream. No trouble would follow 
such a combination, for all items fol- 
lowing the grape-fruit would tend to 
neutralize its acid. Even if Nature were 
limping a bit, this dinner would aid her 
rather than give additional trouble to 
overcome. 

Continued on page 222 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 4082. — "Can you give me a recipe 
for a Ginger Ale Salad, made with gelatine, with 
or without fruit?" 

The recipe to which you refer appeared 
under "Seasonable and Tested Recipes" 
in the June-July, 1914, number of this 
magazine, and is as follows: 

Ginger Ale Salad 

Soften one-fourth a package of gelatine 
in one-fourth a cup of cold water and let 
dissolve in a dish of hot water; add a 
grating of lemon rind and one cup and 
three-fourths of ginger ale. Turn into 
small molds to chill and set. Serve very 
cold on heart-leaves of lettuce, with either 
French or mayonnaise dressing, to a cup 
of which is added three tablespoonfuls or 
more of cocktail sauce. 



Query No. 4083. — "What is the delicious, 
clear, cherry-red jelly served in buillon cups as 
first course at Lord and Taylor's Restaurant, 
New York City? I hardly think it is tomato, 
not being that kind of red. 

"Why does Pie Crust shrink away from the 
edge of the tin in baking? 

"Please give recipe for dark Cocoa Loaf Cake, 
using baking powder instead of soda." 

It is impossible to say from your 
description whether the jelly was fruit, 
vegetable, meat or fowl. It is scarcely 
probable that either of the last two would 
be colored red, as this would render them 
unattractive. It is probable that the 
jelly was one of the so-called fruit soups 
which are popular as a first course in 
summer. They are simple fruit juices 



flavored and molded with gelatine. Vege- 
table coloring is supplied with gelatine 
intended for use in that way. There are 
also ready-to-use fruit gelatines that are 
finely flavored and colored. One firm 
puts up a port flavor which gives a beauti- 
ful cherry-red color. Combined with the 
strawberry which this firm puts up the 
resulting jelly is of a beautiful, clear, 
cherry red, and has a pleasantly tart, rich 
flavor. 

There are several reasons why the 
crust may shrink from the pan. Of 
course, all pastry leaves the pan to a cer- 
tain degree when baked, but if an insuf- 
ficient amount of shortening is used, the 
pastry will be tough and shrink in baking. 
The same thing will happen if too much 
wetting is used. One must train the eye 
as well as the hand in order to keep the 
same standard for texture in these days 
when brands of food materials are 
constantly changing. 

Any recipe for chocolate cake can be 
used with cocoa substituted for an equal 
amount of chocolate, and any chocolate 
cake can be made with baking powder 
instead of soda, using the standard 
amount of baking powder for the amount 
of flour used. Chocolate cake is better 
made with soda as the chocolate unites, 
chemically, better with soda. If added 
when the chocolate mixture is hot the 
cake will be red in color and taste of the 
soda. The following recipe makes a 
small loaf. 



210 



whvj use 
butter 
i n cake ? 




AgiSCOl) 

\J w dak Hating, 



Get Crisco from your grocer in 
this sanitary, air-tight can. It 
is never sold in bulk. There is 
nothing else like it. Sizes, one 
pound net weight and larger. 




Can you answer these ques- 
% tions about cake making? 

What are the five principal 
ways of making cakes? Why 
should plenty of sugar be used 
in a cheap cake? What makes 
a cake crack? What kind of 
texture does sweet milk give to 
cake? What kind does butter- 
milk give? — The answer to all 
of these questions is given in 
"The Calendar of Dinners" — a 
231-page book that is a real 
mine of information for every 
cook and housewife. Gives you 
the correct methods for all 
kinds of cooking; gives 615 
appetizing recipes; gives a 
complete dinner recipe for 
every day in the year. Cloth 
bound. Written by Marion 
Harris Neil. Send only 10 
cents in postage, and receive a 
copy, postpaid. Address De- 
partment A-10, The Procter & 
Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 



It seems a useless expense, when you 
can just add a little salt (a teaspoon - 
ful for every cupful of Crisco) and 
make the most delicious, delicate, 
tender cakes, with the real butter 
taste, at half of butter cost. 

Cakes enriched with Crisco are a de- 
light in every way. They are fine- 
grained, light and fluffy, and stay 
fresh and moist unusually long. 
White cakes, especially, are snowy 
marvels that are a real tribute to 
Crisco's whiteness and purity. 

Crisco is always fresh, sweet and 
uniformly good, down to the last 
spoonful. It does not turn rancid — 
a fact you will appreciate if you 
have tried to make a fine cake with 
cooking butter which was not strictly 
fresh. 



Use Crisco to make perfect pie-crust and 
biscuits, and for all your frying. Things 
will be extra good and wholesome, too, 
because Crisco is all vegetable. Try this 
modern cooking fat — better and more 
economical for every purpose. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

211 



212 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cocoa Cake with Baking Powder 

Cream together one-half cup of butter 
and one cup of sugar. Add the yolks of 
cwo eggs, well beaten, and one-half cup 
of milk. Mix one cup and a half of 
flour, one teaspoonful and a half of baking 
powder and two heaping teaspoonfuls 
of cocoa. Add this to the batter and 
fold in the stiffly-beaten whites of the 
two eggs. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla 
before folding in the whites. 

Query No. 4084. — "Will you please give 
recipe for Boston Fudge Cake with raisin and 
nut filling and chocolate icing?" 

An excellent recipe for Fudge Cake with 
an unusual filling is given in this number 
under "Tested Recipes." 

Query No. 4085. — "When in the 'States' 
recently I was interested to see the use made of 
Cottage Cheese. Could you not give us a 
recipe for making and others for using?" 

The simplest method of making Cot- 
tage Cheese gives the best results. As 
soon as milk has soured sufficiently to 
form a solid curd that shows no whey, it 
is ready for turning into cheese. This will 
usually be on the second day of souring, 
although the process will take longer in 
winter. It can always be hastened by 
keeping the milk in a warm room. As 
soon as the entire mass has turned to a 
uniform curd, turn it into a square of 
cheesecloth or thin bag, hang it up and 
allow to drip all night. In the morning 
squeeze gently (to avoid pressing the 
curd through the cloth), and fold the 
bag in such a way that the cheese is 
gathered into a ball. Put under a heavy 
weight for several hours. When com- 
paratively dry turn the curd into a bowl 
and break into bits with a fork. Add 
salt cautiously and sweet cream to make 
a moist mass. Stir well with the fork, 
add more cream and salt if needed. The 
cheese will stand quite a generous amount 
of salt. In this form it is ready to serve 
as an accompaniment to Boston Brown 
Bread or white bread and butter. The 
cheese can be shaped into balls, flattened 
and allowed to dry out. A gelatinous 
coating forms over the cakes and many 
consider the cheese at its best in this form. 



Cottage Cheese made from junket has 
the advantage of being predigested. A 
custard mixture, flavored with lemon 
juice and the grated rind and with Cot- 
tage Cheese to give "body," makes a 
good filling for tarts and pies. 

Query No. 4086. — "Please give a recipe 
for a new cake called 'Honeymoon Cake, 
which is an Angel Food layer cake, one layei 
being white and the other yellow." 

Recipe for Honeymoon Cake 

We are not familiar with the cake you 
name, but judge it is made of the usua' 
Angel Food and Sunshine Cake. 

Recipe for Angel Cake 

One cup of egg-whites (seven to nine, 
according to size of the eggs), beaten til' 
frothy. Add a pinch of salt and part oi 
a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Con- 
tinue beating, and at intervals add the 
remainder of the teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar. When the bowl can be turned 
up-side down without the eggs moving, 
they are stiff enough. Have ready one 
cup and a fourth of granulated sugar. 
free from lumps or coarse crystals. Have 
ready measured one cup of flour which 
has been sifted several times before 
measuring. Sprinkle one-third of the 
flour over the stiff whites and one-third 
of the sugar. Toss the eggs over the 
sugar and flour with a fork and only 
enough to partly cover. Do not make 
any motion that approaches stirring. 
Toss in the second third of the two 
materials and toss lightly once or twice. 
Add the last third and a teaspoonful of 
almond extract. The last tossing should 
distribute the sugar and flour enough and 
the mixture in the bowl should not be 
diminished in volume. If it is, you have 
stirred out most of the air upon which 
you depended for both lightness and 
volume. This recipe should give two 
good-sized loaves of the kind that really 
does "melt in one's mouth." 

Recipe for Sunshine Cake 

Beat the yolks of five eggs till thick 
and light-colored. Beat the whites of 
seven eggs till foamy; add a pinch of 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



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OFA BAKING POWDER? 



Those whose profession and reputation de- 
pend upon their knowledge of the best bak- 
ing materials. Among the first to use 
Kyzon and endorse it as the Perfect Baking 
Powder were domestic science experts and 
physicians. 



Their verdict is confirmed by the chefs of 
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more than a million good homekeepers have 
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Ryzon is 40c for a full 16 ounce pound. 
There are also loo and Joe packag* s. 



Some of the leading hotels, clubs and institutions using Ryzon : 



Hotel 
Hotel 
Hotel 
Hotel 
Hotel 



New York City 

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The Biltmore 

Hotel Bossert (B'klyn) 

Hotel Bretton Hall 

Knickerbocker 

Manhattan 

McAlpin 

Ritz-Carlton 

Pennsylvania 

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Hotel Hamilton 

Hotel Robert Fulton 

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The Knott Hotels 

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Lambs' Club 

New York Yacht Club 

Midday Club 

Bankers' Club 

Montauk Club 
(Brooklyn) 

Aero Club 

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National Arts Club 

University Club for 
Women 

Yale Club 

Manhattan Eye. Ear 
and Throat Hospital 

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change 

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Chicago, 111. 
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Room 
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Hotel. Walton 
Hotel Normandie 
St. James Hotel 
Cnion League Club 
Penn. State Hospital 
Hahnemann Hospital 
Pennsylvania fiospital 
Presbyterian Hospital 
Woman's Hospital of 

Philadelphia 
Strawbridge & Clothier 
Cheri 

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Boston. Mass. 
Copley Plaza Hotel 
Marston's Food Shops 
Hotel Brunswick 
Hotel Somerset 
Hotel Thorndike 
Hotel Victoria 
Hotel Westminster 
Boston City Club 
College Club 
City Hospital 
Mass. General Hos- 
pital 
Children's Hospital 
Peter Bent Brigham 

Hospital 
Woman's Educational 

and Industrial Union 
Y. M C. A. 
Binghamton. N. Y. 
Binghamton State 

Hospital 
Buffalo N. Y 
Hotel Statler 
Statler Restaurant 
Y. W. C. A. 



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Rochester, X. Y. 
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Rochester Gen. Hos- 
pital 
Rochester State 
Hospital 

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West Point, N. Y. 

U. S. Military Acad- 
emy 
Tuskegee. Ala. 

Tuskegee Institute 
Colorado Springs. Colo. 

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New Haven. Conn. 

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Miami. Fla. 

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notel Ansley 

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oanaersviile Sani- 
tarium 

Savannah, Ga. 

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Hotel Savannah 
Ocean Steamship Co. 

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New Orleans, La. 

Hotel Grunewald 
The St. Charles 
Presbyterian Hospital 

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Istruma Hotel 
Annapolis, Md. 

U. S. Naval Academy 



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The Emerson Hotel 

Woman's Hospital 

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Cambridge Ma-.s. 

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Detroit. Mich. 

Hotel Statler 

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Detroit Athletic Club 
Kansas City, Mo. 

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Atlantic City, N. J. 

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Ihe Breakers 

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Hospital 
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sex 
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Union Club 

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Club 
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Houston, Texas. 

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Richmond. Ya. 

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Club 

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Milwaukee, Wis. 

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Club 
Grand Canyon. Ariz. 

El Tovar Hotel 



The Ryzon Baking Book (original price SI. 00) containing 
250 practical home recipes, zvilt be mailed, postpaid, upon 
receipt of 30c in stamps or coin, except in Canada. A. pound 
tin of Ryzon and a copy of Ryzon Baking Book will be sent 
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher who zvrites 
us on school stationery, giving official position. 



F 



Ryzon 




THE PERFECT BAKING POWDER 

GENERALCHEMICALCO. 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 

NEW YORK 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

213 



214 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



salt and one-half teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar. Continue as for Angel Cake. 
Have ready for instant use one cup of 
granulated sugar and two-thirds a cup of 
flour. Add the beaten yolks with a 
toss, then the sugar and flour as directed 
for Angel Food. Add a squeeze of 
lemon juice. This makes a large loaf 
if properly mixed. 

Both these cakes should be put into 
an oven that has a steady, moderate 
heat that is not increased, and the door 
should not be opened till the cakes are 
done, which will be in about forty-five 
minutes, if the oven is right. 

Filling for Honeymoon Cake 

Nothing could be better for this than 
plain boiled icing made in perfection. 
Flavor with equal parts of extract of 
lemon and vanilla. 



Query No. 4087. — "Now that we cannot 
get brandy for Plum Puddings and Fruit Cake, 
what can we use to make them keep? I heard 
vinegar would do. If so, how would you use 
it and could you give us a tested recipe for both 
cake and pudding?", 

Brandy Substitute for Fruit Cake 
and Plum Pudding 

As far as we know there is no sub- 
stitute for brandy in either of the articles 
you mention. Vinegar may prevent 
mold or the appearance of other un- 
desirable conditions, but it would not 
improve the flavor nor develop it. 
Vinegar from spiced sweet pickles is a 
real addition to mincemeat, but that 
needs an acid flavor. As a matter of 
fact, fruit cakes and puddings will keep 
perfectly well without brandy except in 
climates that cause bacteria to develop 
rapidly. In that case we doubt whether 
even brandy would be effective for a very 
long time. 

We would recommend cutting out the 
milk in the things you name and sub- 
stituting very strong coffee and grape 
juice. An ordinary fruit cake is im- 
mensely improved by the addition of 



two tablespoonfuls of fine, powderedl 
charcoal that may be purchased at the; 
drug store. The improvement consists; 
in the fact that the charcoal assists! 
digestion and prevents one from the! 
discomfort that always attends indul- 
gence in spiced sweets. The presence 
of the charcoal is known in no other way. 
We should be tempted to use three or 
four tablespoonfuls of it as a preserva- 
tive, in a purely experimental way. 
The recipes given are known to be good,| 
but have no preservatives. Another 
factor that assures good keeping is the 
thorough baking of the cake. Four 
hours in a moderate, steady oven is j 
none too long. When perfectly cool 
wrap in oiled paper, or glazed wrapping] 
paper. 

Fruit Cake without Preservatives 

One pound of butter, one pound of 
sugar, twelve eggs, one cup of New 
Orleans molasses, one cup of very strong 
coffee, one pound of flour browned to a 
medium and even brown, two pounds of 
seeded raisins, two pounds of currants or 
sultana raisins, one pound of candied 
cherries, one pound of candied citron 
sliced thin, two tablespoonfuls of cinna- 
mon, one tablespoonful of cloves, one 
small nutmeg, one teaspoonful of black 
pepper. Add one teaspoonful and a 
half of soda to the molasses. More flour 
will be necessary and it is best to use that 
unbrowned. 

Plum Pudding 



\ cup flour 
\ teaspoonful salt 
\ nutmeag, grated 
\ teaspoonful mace 
4 eggs, beaten very 

light 
1 cup milk 



2 cups fine bread 

crumbs 
2 cups fine-chopped 

suet {\ pound) 

1 cup sugar 

\ pound raisins 
\ pound currants 
\ cup nut meats, 

sliced 
\ pound citron, sliced 

2 ounces candied peel, 

sliced thin 



Mix together bread, suet, sugar, fruit, 
nuts; add the flour, sifted with the salt 
and spices; mix thoroughly with the 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




A Penny Dish 

Forms the School-Boy's 
Ideal Breakfast 

Better than 10c 
Meat Foods 

A big dish of Quaker Oats and milk costs about 
a penny. 

In meat or eggs the same nutrition, measured by- 
calories, costs from 8 to 10 cents. 

In Quaker Oats you serve the ideal boy- 
food. It is almost a complete food — the 
greatest food that grows. 

No meat food compares with oats as nutri- 
ment for young folks. 

1810 Calories Per Pound 

The calory is* the energy measure of food 
value. Quaker Oats yields 1810 calories per 
pound, which is twice as much as beef. 

The cost at this writing, compared with 
other necessary foods, is about as follows: 



Cost Per 1000 Calories 


Quaker Oats 


5%c 


Round Steak 


33c 


Veal or Lamb . . , 


46c 


Average Fish . . , 


50c 


Eggs ..... 


50c 


Stewing Hens 


52c 



Saves $10 Per Month 

A Quaker Oats breakfast, in the average home, will save $10 monthly com- 
pared with meat or egg breakfasts. 

And it starts the day with the food of foods. 

Serve other foods at other meals. People need variety. But use this one- 
cent breakfast dish to average up your food cost. 

uaaker Oat 





Flaked from the Richest Grains 

15 and 35c per Package (Except in the Far West and South) 
Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover 



3193 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

211 



216 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



eggs and milk. Steam six hours in a 
buttered mold. Serve with hard sauce. 



Query No. 4088. —"Will you kindly give a 
recipe for pickling carrots?" 

Recipe for Pickling Carrots 

Select tiny carrots no larger than your 
little finger. Wash well and trim off 
the crown, but do not scrape. If it 
is not possible to secure the little ones, 
get them as small as possible and scrape, 
trim and cut into quarters. Pack close 
in a pint jar and add also one white 
onion the size of a walnut, sliced thin, and 
the sliced pulp of a lemon that has been 
skinned. Mix one tablespoonful of salt, 
the same of sugar, one-half a tablespoon- 
ful of mustard, and one-fourth a table- 
spoonful of curry powder. Stir this to 
a paste with cider vinegar. Turn into 
the jar and fill with either cider or malt 
vinegar or a mixture of the two. Seal. 
These are very tart and crisp and ready 
to use in a week. 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 






JOYS and GIRLS enjoy 
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George FrostCo., Makers, BOSTON 



Unusual Sweets from Vegetables 

Vegetable Marrow Jam 

Select half-grown marrows, and if they 
•have been cut from the vines for at least 
two weeks, all the better. Cut the mar- 
row into slices about an inch thick, pare 
and remove the seeds. Cut the pieces 
into half-inch cubes or into thin slices. 
Place in a bowl and cover with sugar. 
Add also the grated yellow rind of lemons 
and their juice. Preserved or fresh ginger 
root is an addition. Let this stand over 
night. In the morning drain off the 
juice and let it boil for half an hour. Add 
the marrow and ginger, and let all simmer 
slowly till the marrow is transparent. 
The result will be the daintiest of mar- 
malades. A few slices of lemon (skin 
and all) cut very thin and dropped in 
just long enough to cook through 
before the marmalade is done make a 
pretty addition. This marmalade should 
be put into small glasses. 

The following proportions make a 
large quantity, but are a guide for a 
smaller amount. For six pounds of 
marrow cubes allow six pounds of sugar, 
one-quarter pound of ginger root and the 
rind and juice of three lemons. 

Imitation Apricot Jam 

Scrape a pound or more of carrots and 
slice thin. Cover with a quart of water 
and boil till tender. Drain well and run 
through the meat-grinder. Set in a cool 
place over night. In the morning add, 
to three cups of carrots, the juice and 
grated yellow rind of two lemons, four 
cups of sugar and about two dozen 
blanched almonds cut fine. Let stand 
till the sugar is pretty well dissolved; 
stir well and simmer sowly till the mass 
is smooth and thick. Add as little water 
as possible. Just before taking from the 
fire add a few drops of essence of bitter 
almonds. Put in small retainers and seal 
tight. 



"Another labor problem is how men 
with no work can strike for more pay." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Don't miss a treat ! 

Whv SHOULD vou ? A rich surprise is in store for vou in the first 
taste of Wheatena — the nut-like, never-tiring breakfast food. 
Wholesome hearts-of-the-wheat in every spoonful. You never get 
enough of it! Your palate ever pleads for more of this mouth- 
watering delicacy. So<g-o-o-d, so nutritious. One never tires of 
Wheatena — you eat it week after week, month after month, with 

the same keen satisfaction. TEST 
this truth. Order Wheatena of 
your grocer to-day. 

Wheatena always Tastes Good 

Everyone likes it, not only as a 
breakfast" cereal but it is popular 
at lunch and dinner too — it has 
many delicious uses. Because it is 
easily prepared housewives find it 
useful as a staple food in the home. 

The Wheatena Company. 

Wheatena ville, 

Rahwav, New Jersey 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

217 



The Silver Lining 



The House in Bond Street 

Oho, for the house in Bond Street, 

Where our neighbor's elan doth dwell; 

And the good things that come 

From the kitchen, clean, 
I hardly, forsooth, can tell. 

There are jellies and jams and doughnuts and 
breads, 

And the loveliest cakes and pies; 
For you must know that the neighbor's wife 

Is a cook, exceedingly wise. 

Don't you wish you lived neighbor in Bond 
Street, 
To that cook, exceedingly wise? 
Then you, too, might partake 
Of the things she can make, 
Like jellies and cakes and pies. 

— Grace S. Burr. 



Give Them Rope 

While the Germans were marching 
through a Belgian province, one of them 
said sneeringly to a farmer sowing seed: 

"You may sow, but we shall reap." 



'Well, perhaps you may," was the 
reply; "I am sowing hemp." 

— Montreal Journal of Commerce. 



Artificially 

The Brute: "I think that women are 
much better-looking than men." 
She: "Naturally." • 
The Brute: "No, artificially." 

— Tit-Bits. 



Mark Twain, so the story goes, was 
walking on Hannibal Street when he met 
a woman with her youthful family. "So 
this is the little girl, eh?" Mark said to 
her as she displayed her children. "And 
this sturdy urchin in the bib belongs, I 
suppose, to the contrary sex." " Yassah," 
the woman replied, "dat's a girl, too." 

— The Summary. 



This New Range Is A 
,Wonder For Cooking 

Although less than four feet long it can do every kind 
of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in summer 
or by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating. 

There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as 

the gas section is as entirely separate from the coal 
section as if placed in another part of the kitchen. 

Note the two gas 
ovens above — one 

for baking, glass 
paneled and one for 
broiling with white 
enamel door. The 
large square oven 





Coal, Wood and Gas Range 

below is heated by coal or wood. 



The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy' 



See the cooking surface when you want to rush things— five burners 
for gas and four covers for coal. The entire range is always available 

as both coal and gas ovens can be operated at the same time, using 
one for meats and the other for pastry. It Makes Cooking Easy. 

,#*& 41 Gold Medal m 

Glenwood 

Write to-day for handsome free booklet 165 that tells all about it, to 

Weir StOVe Co., Taunton, MaSS. Manufacturers of the Celebrated Glenwood 

Coal, Wood and Gas Ranges, Heating Stoves and Furnaces. 



i 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

218 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



THE 
WOODEN DISH 

will not waste or 
contaminate the 
foodstuffs your 
dealer puts into 
it. You can get 
out all the food 
that goes in. 

Demand Wooden Dishes 
for Bulk Foods 



— 




EASTERN SALES OFFICE 
•IOW. 40™ ST. 
NEW YORK CITY 



MANU FACTURER 



STSRM SAIES OFFICE 
37 S.WABASH AVE. 
CHICAGO -ILL. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

219 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




TECO 

SELF-RISING 

Pancake 

and Buckwheat 

Flour 



teg* 



<$*&&» 



IV a In the Flour. 

A little TECO and cold water and 
you have enough pancakes for the 
family. And TECO pancakes are 
as delicious as they are nourishing 
because there is malted butter- 
milk mixed with the flour. 

THE EKENBERG CO. 

CORTLAND, N. Y. 
SAWYER CRYSTAL BLUE CO. 

New England Agents 
88 Broad Street Boston, Mass. 



NESNAH for 
School Children 



Children must be well nourished in 
order to study and succeed in school. 

The food they eat at this time is very 
important. Try an After - School - 
Lunch of Chocolate Nesnah. 

(The sugar and chocolate already in it) 

The children will like it because it is 
delicious. They should have it be- 
cause it is wholesome. Keep a few 
glasses made up in the refrigerator 
and let them help themselves. 



HESM 




Six pure natural flavors 



Vanilla 
Almond 



Orange 
Lemon 



Raspberry 
Chocolate 



Ask your grocer for Nesnah or order direct from 
The Junket Folks — a free sample and a booklet of 
recipes on request. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, Inc. 

THE JUNKET FOLKS 
Box 2570 LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



First Farmer: "How do you find your 
new hired man, Ezry?" Second Farmer: 
"I look in the shade of the tree nearest 
his work." — ■ Buffalo Express. 



Customer: "You label those eggSj 
'Fresh from the country.' Are they the 
same as I got here yesterday?" 

Grocer: "Yes, sir." 

Customer: "What country do you 
mean, China?" — London Opinion. 



Kind Old Lady: "Why, you brute! 
Don't you know better than to abuse a 
poor mule with a sore foot?" 

Colored Driver: "He's a a-awmy mule, 
he ain't lame. He's just 



ma am, an' 



standin' at parade rest." — Life. 



Visitor (being shown round the grounds 
of estate bought by profiteer): "That 
tower, I believe, goes back to William 
the Conqueror." 

Profiteer: "Oh, no, it don't; I've 
bought the lot." ■ — ■ Blighty, London. 

Airs. Pankhurst tells the following 
of a little Anglo-Indian child: "She 
had just come from India to be put to 
school, and one night she stayed with 
me all night. After she had been put 
to bed I visited her room to see if she 
was all right. In the dim light I saw 
the little white-robed figure groping on 
its knees in the cot, and I whispered to 
my daughter, 'The little thing is saying 
her prayers.' A tiny voice came from 
the cot. 'Where the debil's my dolly?' • 

— Detroit Free Press. 



Teco Self-Rising Pancake and Buck- 
wheat Flours are prepared with Malted 
Buttermilk; to be used without milk — 
just add water. The buttermilk is in the 
flour. 

With Teco and a little cold water you 
have enough pancakes for the family, and 
Teco Pancakes are as delicious as they 
are nutritious, because there is MALTED 
BUTTERMILK mixed in the flour 
— Adv. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

220 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Making Food Attractive 

In her great novel, "Middlemarch," George Eliot says : 

"It is strange how deeply colors seem to penetrate one, like scent. I 
suppose that is one of the reasons why gems are used as spiritual emblems 
in the Revelations of St. John." 

The gifted author had no thought of food when she wrote these words, 
but the application is there, nevertheless. 

Relish for food involves two elements, vigor of appetite and the attrac- 
tiveness of the food in appearance and taste. 

Has any cook or dietitian ever served anything in the 
form of food which met these conditions more satisfac- 
torily than 




does ? And does anything else require so little time and 
so little "fussing" as Jell-0 does, or always turn out to be 
perfect, as Jell-0 dishes do ? 

Jell-0 is made in six pure fruit flavors : Strawberry, 
Raspberry, Lemon, Orange, Cherry, Chocolate. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY 
Le Roy, N. Y., and Bridgeburg, Ont. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

221 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Salt Mackerel 

CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER 

RIGHT FROM THE FISHING BOATS TO YOU 




FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied 
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK 
E. DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE 
OCEAN FISH, choicer than any inland dealer could 
possibly furnish. 

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT, 
cending by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We 
PREPAY express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish 
ere pure, appetizing and economical and we want YOU 
to try some, payment subject to your approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious 
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not 
spoil on your hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for 
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from 
meat, at a much lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. 
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled 
and packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They 
come to you as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy 
and the meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from 
the shell yourself. 

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your 
whole family will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that o:' 
clams, whether fried or in a chowder. 

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to 
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled 
SALMON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY 
for salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing 
packed here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep 
right on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. 

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES for 
preparing all our products. Write for it. Our list 
tells how each kind of fish is put up, with the 
delivered price, so you can choose just what ..■■' 

you will enjoy most. Send the coupon for it ...--*"* 

now. 



FRANK E. DAVIS CO. 

311 Central Wharf, 

Gloucester, ..--''' 

Mass. .---""" 

..--" Name 



,,--''' Frank E. 

..--*'" Davis Co., 

,.-""' 311 Central Wharf, 

■-""' Gloucester, Mass. 

Please send me your latest 

Fish Price List. 



Street 



Cif y ... State 



The Acid Test 

Concluded from page 20Q 

We do not need lessons in chemistry 
or the knowledge of expert dietitians to 
avoid the troubles caused by improper 
food combinations. We need only a 
judicious application of common sense. 
A couple of hours spent in a public library 
with books on garden products and we 
could learn' soon all we need to know 
about the acid tests of vegetables and 
fruits. 

The seasons of various foodstuffs 
should be studied so that these may be 
used, treated or discarded intelligently. 
Because hot-house production, refrigera- 
tor cars and cold storage plants make it 
possible for us to eat anything, at any 
season, the wholesomeness of foods is 
not insured. 

Canned goods often acquire acids and 
gases that play havoc with the digestive 
organs, so that every precaution should 
be taken to secure only the most reliable 
brands, to empty the cans as soon as 
opened, and inspect the contents most 
carefully before using. If there is fer- 
mentation present, a foreign odor or any 
unusual appearance about the contents, 
the can should be returned immediately 
to the shop from which it was purchased 
with a complaint that may save others 
a like experience. 

Cooking acids in tin utensils is another 
fruitful way of making trouble, but it 
is easily avoided by replacing tinware 
with the more modern wares designed to 
evade this very trouble. 

Slightly rancid oils, usually noticeable 
on various kinds of canned fish, mingled 
with lemon juice, generally offered with 
fish, are almost sure to start internal 




ANGLEFOO 

The Non-Poisonous Fly Destroyer 



The U. S. Dept. of Agriculture says In the bulletin: "Special 
pains should be taken to prevent children from drinking poi- 
soned baits and poisoned files dropping Into foods or drinks." 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

222 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




AFTER you've learned the 
l\ various uses for Cox's In- 
stant Powdered Gelatine, you 
won't try to keep house without it! 

Cox's is not a "prepared" food 
— you're not confined to jellied 
desserts, for Cox's also makes 
delicious ice cream, blanc mange, 
frozen custard and sauces as well 
as soups, salads and savories. 

Cox's is unflavored and un- 
sweetened, so you can add pure 
wholesome flavors of the kind 
you prefer and sweeten it to 
your taste. 




Instant Powdered 




JOT'S:! 

■0» MANUAL ^ ■ ■ 

«0» OF C+ mm 

^~ u u 



GELATINE & 



^ COOKERY^ 

■■■■■■■ 



a ■ 



Send for a free 
copy of "Cox's 
Manual of Gela- 
tine Cookery.' 



The Cox Gelatine Company 

)ept. D, 100 Hudson St., New York 




BE PARTICULAR ! 



SPICE may be a small item In 
the family cupboard, but if it is 
not absolutely CLEAN" and PURE 
it is apt not only to be worthless 
but actually dangerous. 



B rand 



SPICES 



are famed for purity, strength, and 
flavor. No human hand touches them 
from thetime they enterour warerooms, 
direct from their native lands, until they 
reach your home. Every particle of dust and 
foreign matter is removed by special processes. 
They come to you %o clean, sweet and pun- 
gent, that they not only are the best and 
safest Spices to use, but also the most eco- 
nomical of any on the market. 

Next time you buy Spices, Flavoring Extracts, Gelatine, 
Prepared Mayonnaise, Salad Dressing, Mustard, etc., 
insist upon getting BEE-BRAND and you will be 
sure of highest quality and value — guaranteed abso- 
lutely pure. 

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, Md, 

Importers and Manufacturers 

(Proprietors of the Famous BANQUET TEA) 

Our BEE-BRAND 
Manual of Cookery can 
now be secured for 50c 
in coin or stamps. Send 
also for our free book- 
lets containing many 
interesting facts concern- 
ing Spices, Tea and 
Flavoring Extracts. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

223 



AMERICAN COOKERY 











dissension, often productive of serious 
results. Stale eggs, bitter butter, sour 
yeast, and imperceptibly tainted food, 
disguised by highly seasoned sauces, will 
create "heartburn" or worse, not dan- 
gerous, perhaps, but uncomfortable. 
Foods fried in rancid fats, or fats tainted, 
like foods, from a carelessly kept re- 
frigerator, are among the unforgivable 
causes of trouble, because it is unneces- 
sary. The lobster does not always bring 
the ptomaine poison concealed about its 
person, for if it is fresh and lively when 
cooked, is cooled naturally and removed 
from the shell properly, no trouble will 
follow indulgence in eating it freely. 
But if it is "still" before cooking, is 
iced to cool it, and improperly taken from 
the shell, trouble may result. If there 
be a spot of ptomaine in lobster or 
chicken prepared for salad, it is the 
addition of the salad-oil dressing that 
liberates it and infects the entire mass. 

The idea of serving relishes before 
meals came originally from Russia, where 
many fine points of banquet serving may 
be traced, though the "Smorgesbord" 
of Sweden is the most elaborate example 
of the custom in vogue today. Phy- 
sicians decry this relish as an abomination 
and despoiler of the natural appetite for 
wholesome food. The table d'hote man- 
agers encourage its use for the same reason 
as it may be followed by attenuated 
portions without calling attention to 
cheap profiteering. 

Cocktails, served with a half-dozen 
sour or spiced relishes, sent to guests 
before dinner, are often the cause of the 

=Domestic Science 

Home-study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children 

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional 
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution 
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate 
Housekeeper s," Caterers, etc. 

"The Profession of Home-making." 100 
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand 
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent 
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each. 

American School of Home Economics 
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111 



^ 



J> 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

224 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Send Today! 



This wonderful new booklet of 
cake, pie and fine pastry recipes has 
just been published! Janet McKen- 
zie Hill, the famous domestic science 
expert, prepared it. 

Every page of "Cake Secrets" 
contains valuable information — such 
as is found in no other booklet. 



You'll find so many new tested 
recipes for cakes and pastries, with 
full instructions for baking. Ele- 
gant colored illustrations are a help- 
ful feature. 

Send us 10 cents ^currency or 
stamps) and we will forward you a 
copy of "Cake Secrets." 





Prepared {Jlot Self -Rising) 




Wax Paper 
Wrapped 



f 



Preferred by Housewives for 24years 

It takes a special cake flour to make the best cake and pastries. Experts 
are agreed on this. Swans Down Cake Flour makes lighter, whiter, finer 
cakes — perfect every time! It is the old, reliable product. Ask your best 
grocer. If he does not have it, 
send us his name and we will For Convenience, UseJThtsJJoupon^ 

see that you are supplied. HcLEHEART BROTHERS, Evansville. Ind. 

_ I Please send me a copy of your new Cake 

IGLEHEART BROTHERS ' Secrets" written by Janet McKenzie Hill. lam 

Established 1856 I enclosing 10c, as per your offer in October 
Dept.AC Evansville, Ind. American Cookery. 

Also manufacturers of Swans I Name 

Down Wheat Bran. • 
Nature's laxative food. " Address - - -- 

A City State... - — 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

225 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




SEVEN-CENT MEALS * P I r 50 p - n ~^ 

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This 
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two 
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses. 

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago 



entire meal disagreeing with partakers, 
who try to fasten the blame to the 
oysters, lobster, or some other often- 
accused viand. 

The literal translation of " hors 
d'ceuvres" is "outside the subject," and 
it is not a bad idea to leave them there, 
the subject being a good wholesome meal, 
which needs no other appetizer than good 
health and unimpaired digestion, that 
pleads not for pampering, but for plenty. 

J. y. N. 
* * * 

At a teachers' institute in an Eastern 
city a speaker said that, in his opinion, 
"the trouble with the public school 
system of today is, the teachers are 
afraid of the principals, the principals 
are afraid of the superintendent, he is 
afraid of the school committee, they are 
afraid of the parents, the parents are 
afraid of the children, and the children 
are afraid of nobody!" — Life. 

The late Sir John Mahaffy, provost of 
Trinity College, Dublin, was brilliantly 
witty, and many of his good sayings are 
in general circulation. But he occasion- 
ally met his match. One of his en- 
counters was with the late Dr. Salmon, 
provost of Trinity before Dr. Traill. 
Mahaffy was one day inveighing against 
corporal punishment for boys, which he 
declared never did any good. "Take 
my own case," he exclaimed. "I was 
never caned but once in my life, and that 
was for speaking the truth." "Well," 
Salmon retorted caustically, "it cured 
you." — The Manchester Guardian. 



GRANNY'S SECRET 

Gake Patter 




Send for 

Gift 
Catalog 

There is a difference in the lightness 

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long 

remembered — the best. Perhaps you have some friend who tai 

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is f 

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c. 

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden' 

times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge 

parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no 

doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted 

and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty/ 

shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts\ 

which will be forwarded upon application. 

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

226 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



The Modern Milk for the 

Modern Kitchen 



DO you know that Carnation Milk meets every 
need of Domestic Science? It is the modern 
and the economical way to use milk. 

Because Carnation Milk is sterilized after it has 
been hermetically sealed in the new container it 
will keep much longer than fresh milk. 

Remember this always: Carnation Milk is just 
about twice as rich in butter fat and milk solids as 
an equal quantity of raw milk. Therefore, when 
you add an equal part of water to Carnation, you 
get milk of natural consistency. 

Use Carnation wherever you use milk in cooking. 
Use it undiluted on cereals and in coffee. Whip it for 
desserts and salads, for it may be whipped like cream. 

The only difference between Carnation Milk and fresh 
milk is this — part of the water has been removed from 
Carnation Milk by evaporation. 

Do not confuse Carnation Milk with "sweetened-con- 
densed" milk, for it contains no sugar and is sterilized. 

Write for "The Story of Carnation Milk" which contains 
100 carefully tested, economical recipes. We also have a 
special folder on "How to Whip Carnation Milk" which 
we will send to Domestic Science instructors for dis- 
tribution among their classes. Address Recipe Booklet 
Dept., Carnation Milk Products Co., 958 Consumers 
Bldg., Chicago, 111. 

CARNATION MILK PRODUCTS CO. 

SEATTLE CHICAGO AYLMER, ONT. 

Evaporatories located in the better dairying sections of the United States arid Canada 



arnation 

From Contented Cows 




Milk 



The label is white and red 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

227 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Clover -Leaf Dinner Rolls 

"—And let rise in a place between 80° and 90°. 
Bake at W " , ,. 

That isLhe modern scientific way of reading 
recipes. Not "let rise in a warm place." net 
"bake in a 'slow,' 'moderate' or hot oven" but 
— the exact temperatures in unmistakable fig- 
ures. Get the three Taylor Recipe Books and 
see how it's done. 

They'll show you the modern way — the chet s 
way _ the on iy S afe and sure way to cook. And 
they'll save you no end of fuel waste. 

dor Instrument Companies Rochester, N. Y. 

Oven 

Thermometer. $1.75 
Candy 

Thermometer, 1.50 
Sugar Meter 1-tO 

The three for $4.25 

Prices in Canada and 
Far West proportion- 
ately higher. 

If your dealer can't sup- 
ply the Taylor Home Set 

or will n ot order for you , 
mail $4.25 direct to us 
with dealer's name and 
it will be sent prepaid 




"■" " ''"-"',",, = 



Housekeeper's size, I §oz. , .30 prepaid 

Caterer's size, !6oz., $1.00 

(With full directions.) 



Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Cream Whipping Made 
Easy and Inexpensive 

^ REMO- y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk 

or Top of the Milk Bottle 

It whips up as easily as heavy cream 
and retains its stiffness 

Every caterer and housekeeper 
wants CREMO-VESCO. 
Send for a bottle today. 



"Nellie is just like cider, so sweet until 
she starts to work." 

— Michigan Gargoyle. 

Magistrate (discharging prisoner): 
"Now then, I would advise you to keep 
away from bad company." Prisoner 
(feelingly): "Thank you, sir. You won't 
see me here again." — Lippincotfs. 

The Brewer: "Yes, sir, this brewery 
cost me nearly a million, and now it's no 
use." 

Friend: "But why don't you turn it 
into a soft drink factory?" 

The Brewer: "Never, sir! It's a 
matter of conscience with me." — Judge. 

Mistress (to cook) : "Now, Bridget, 
I'm going to give a Christmas party. I 
sincerely hope you will make yourself 
generally useful." Bridget (much flat- 
tered): "Shure, mum, Oi'll do my best; 
but [confidentially] Oi'm so sorry Oi 
can't dance, mum." 

— ■ Glasgow Evening Times. 

A negro was trying to saddle a mule 
when a bystander asked, "Does that 
mule ever kick you?'' "No, suh, but he 
kicks sometimes whar I'se jes' been." 



x»^ 



Trade Mark, Registered. 



vXvGluten Flour 




40% GLUTEN 

Guaranteed to comply in all reapecta .o 

Standard requirements of U. S. Dept. of 

Agriculture. 

Manufactured by 

FARWELL & RHINES 

Waterlowa, N. Y. 



Z*V 



y%\ 



Eat More Bread 



Bread is the most important food 
we eat. It furnishes abundant 
nourishment in readily digestible 
form. The fact that it never be- 
comes tiresome though eaten day 
after day, is proof of its natural 
food qualities. 

Eat plenty of bread made with 

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

228 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




You can have, in your home 

— no matter where you live 

— the most wonderfully fresh fish, specially cooked 

and prepared for you, so that they are as fresh 

and flavory as on the day taken from the ocean. 

BURNHAM& MORRILL 
FISH FLAKES 

the finest fish product for making Creamed Fish, Codfish Balls, 
Fish Souffle, Fish Chowder, Fish Salad, and many other dainty 
and delicious fish dishes. . Only the firm white meat of se- 
lected cod and haddock, packed in parchment lined, airtight 
containers — it takes three pounds of the fresh-caught fish to 
make one pound of B & M Fish Flakes. 

No shredding, no boning, no loss of time or delayed meals. 
These pictures show three of the toothsome, appetizing dishes 
you can prepare quickly: our new "Book of Recipes" will be 
sent on request — ask for it. 

B 6C M Fish Flakes, packed in a clean sanitary, factory at the 

water's edge in Portland, Maine, simplify the cooking question, 

delight the family, and are nourishing as well as appetizing. 

AT YOUR GROCER'S 

BURNHAM & MORRILL CO. 

75 Water Street, Portland, Me. 

Packing and specializing in State of Maine food products— the best of their kind 

— including B & M Paris Sugar Corn, B & M Pork and Beans, B & M Clam 

Cho-wder, B& M Clams, B& M Lobster. 



(£>"!<- 







Codfish Balls 



J£SS' -. 








Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

229 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



SERVICE TABLE WAGON 




\OUR HOMl AND 
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A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT 

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less .recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c. 
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Delicious Whipped Cream 

can be easily made from ordinary Table 
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Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer 
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Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science. 

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USED 

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The Graduate Housekeeper 

THE demand for expert assistance in private 
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range 
from $60 to $100 a month, or more, with 
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Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are 
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Here is your opportunity — our new home- 
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— in all the manifold activities of the home. 
When, you graduate we place you in a satis- 
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tions are non-resident, others part-time. 

The training is based on our Household Engin- 
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and Lessons in Cooking courses required. 
Usually the work can be completed and diploma 
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and just what every housekeeper ought to have 
for her own home. 

To those who enroll this month, we are allow- 
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American School of Home Economics, 

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Please enroll me, provisionally, for your new Graduate 
Housekeepers' Course. Send the "Domestic Science 
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and full details. If satisfactory, I will send first pay- 
ment of $5, five days after receiving the "Library" and 
subsequent payments of $5 per month until a total of $25 
is sent in full payment. — for instruction, diploma and 
for all expenses. The "Library" becomes my property, 
and all membership privileges are to be included for three 
(3) years If not suited I will return books, etc., in five 
days, at your expense and will owe you nothing. 

Name 

(Miss or Mrs.) 

Address 

Information 

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference) 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

230 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





PAOM.U BY 

I CHARLES B.KN0K&EUTINECO.IHC 

[ J0tHUTCM*Ji.*.*SA->*O"r*tAi..<JW*3t. 
• ST WEIOKT OUt OUNCe . 




Mrs. Knox says.— 






From What You 

Mrs. Knox says.- Ht * Ve "* the Pantry 

" It is really wonderful how many delicious desserts and salads you can make easily 
and quickly with th.2 things you have in the pantry and 

KNOX 

SPARKLING 

GELATINE 

My free recipe books 'Dainty Desserts' and 'Food Economy' save a lot of work, worry and money. They give 
an endless variety of delightful and original ways of combining Knox Sparkling Gelatine with coffee, cocoa, chocolate, 
nee, preserves, fresh, dried and canned fruits, fish and vegetables. 

Experts call both packages of Knox Sparkling Gelatine, 'the 4-to-1 ' Gelatine because it goes four times further than 
flavored packages. One-quarter of a package will make a dessert or salad for six people.'' 



PERFECTION SALAD 



BANANA SPONGE 



1 envelope KNOX Acid- 
ulated Gelatine 

^ cup cold water 

\ cup mild vinegar 

1 pint boiling water 

1 teaspoonful salt 

1 cup finely shredded cab- 
bage 



teaspoonful LemonFlavor- 
ing, found in separate en- 
velope 
cup sugar 

cups celery, cut in small 
pieces 

can sweet red peppers or 
fresh peppers finely cut 



^ envelope KXOX Spar- 
kling Gelatine 
\ cup cold water 
1 cup banana pulp 



2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 
5 cup sugar 

Whites of two eggs beaten 
stiff 



Soak the gelatine in cold water five minutes ; add vine- 
gar, Lemon Flavoring, boiling water, sugar and salt ; stir 
until dissolved. Strain, and when beginning to set add 
remaining ingredients. Turn into a mold, first dipped in 
cold water, and chill. Serve on lettuce leaves with may- 
onnaise dressing or cut in dice and serve in cases made of 
red or green peppers, or the mixture may be shaped in 
molds lined with pimentoes. A delicious accompaniment 
to cold sliced chicken or veal. 

Note — Use Fruits instead of vegetables in the above recipe, and 
you have, a delicious Fruit Salad — If the S2jarklimj pack- 
age is used, two tablespoonfuls lemon juice should be 
used in place of the Lemon Flavoring. 



Soak gelatine in cold water five minutes. Put banana 
pulp, lemon juice and sugar in saucepan and bring to the 
boiling point, stirring constantly. Add soaked gelatine 
and stir until cool. When mixture begins to thicken, fold 
in whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, turn into wet mold or 
paper cases, and sprinkle with chopped nuts if desired. 

Note — If the Acidulated package is used 1-4 of the Lemon 
Flavoring contained therein may be used in place of the 
lemon juice in the above recipe. 

Write for the Knox Recipe Books; they are free for 
the asking, if you give your grocer's name and 
address. Any domestic science teacher can have 
sufficient gelatine for her class, if she will write 
me on school stationery, stating quantity and when 
needed. 




107 Knox Avenue 



"Whenever a recipe calls for gelatine — it means KNOX" 

KNOX GELATINE 

Mrs. Charles B. Knox 



i 



\ 



1 

4 



z a..j&\..:ft±.i.\r*.jur , 2*>...A-r rzz3: 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

231 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



(ra vrford 



Crawford Combination coal and 
gas ranges have won the approval of 
housewives everywhere by their 
economy of time, labor and fuel. 

The generously proportioned coal 
range has a large and roomy oven. 
The Crawford Single Damper makes 
it possible to always secure just the 
proper degree of oven temperature. 

Two interchangeable hods take 
the place of the untidy old-style ash 
pan — one trip serves to empty 
ashes and bring back coal. 

The gas attachment has five burn- 
ers of anew type, which save fuel by 
concentrating the heat directly 
under the center of the pot or pan, 
and a large oven with a broiler which 
folds neatly away when not in [use. 

Many other exclusive Crawford 
features make for efficiency and 
economy. Any Crawford dealer 
will be glad to explain and demon- 
strate these ranges to you. 

Sold by Leading Dealers 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO. 

BOSTON, U. S. A. 



Makers of Highest 
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The real 
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from +he 
Maple Grove 





Uncle John* 
Syrup 



Put up in Four 
Convenient Sizes 



ON GRIDDLE CAKES 

Makes a wholesome and delicious break- 
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family more, for everybodylovestherichmapleflavor 
of Uncle John's Syrup. Once you taste it, you'll find 

IT'S AS NECESSARY ON THE TABLE AS THE SUGAR AND THE CREAM 

Try it on hot biscuits, steamed 
bread, grape fruit or waffles. 
Use it for sweetening and fla- 
voring puddings, sauces and 
frostings. It makes fine fudge 
and candy, too. Try it in your 
own recipes — or send 2c stamp 
for Uncle John's Recipes - -a 
collection of new and delicious 
ways to make cake, cookies, 
puddings and candies. 

New England Maple Syrup 
Co. - - Boston, Mass. 





The Milky Way to Economy 

52 Pages. Over 200 Recipes, from Soup to Candy 

A symposium on milk by Dr. E. V. McCallum, Dr. F. A. Woods 
and other emiment authorities. 

Reprints from Government Bulletins and from "Models for 
Children's Meals." BY MAIL 25c. 

Address: Gertrude Ford Daniel, 51 Oliver Street, Boston 




IDEAL 

NUT CRACKER 

* 

Cracks any nut with a twist of 
the wrist. 

Brings out the kernels whole. 

Especially good for pecans, 
English walnuts, Brazil nuts, 
filberts and almonds. 

If your dealer does not carry, the 
IDEAL write us 
Style 1. Plain nickel C/^C 

plated . s-}V»/ 

Style 4. Highly polished 
nickel plated . 75 cts. 

Postage paid anywhere in the United States 

FRANK B.COOK CO. 

320 W. Madison St. - Chicago 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

232 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




es? Reports 

are food for Thought 

Write for These Reports 

A great food control laboratory has found many 
important reasons why you should ask your grocer 
and butcher to use wooden dishes for packaging 
bulk foods. 

We will send you copies of these reports. 

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY 



EASTERN OFFICE 

110 W. 40th STREET 

NEW YORK CITY 



WESTERN OFFICE 

37 S. WABASH AVENUE 
CHICAGO, ILL. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

241 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXIV 



NOVEMBER, 1919 



No. 4 



CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER 

PAGE 

CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS. Ill Jane Vos 251 

CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY . . David H. Colcord 257 

SMILE ON! Caroline L. Sumner 261 

PIES A LA WESTON Alice M. Ashton 262 

LESSONS IN FOOD AND COOKERY — THE POTATO 

Anna Barrows 266 

THE STORY OF COFFEE Carl Holliday 269 

EDITORIALS 270-272 

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half- 
tone engravings of prepared dishes) 

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 273 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN NOVEMBER " " " 282 

MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DINNERS " " " 283 

PUTTING THANKS INTO THE THANKSGIVING DINNER 

Wealtha A. Wilson 284 

HAIL, THE CRANBERRY! Harriet Whitney Symonds 285 

CHEESE Hazel B. Stevens 286 

A SONG 288 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Innings — Water Plants for 
Your Windows — The Narcissi — Candlesticks — Orange Jelly 

— A New Fudge — Cinnamon-drop Apples 289 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 293 

NEW BOOKS 298 

THE SILVER LINING 306 



$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy 

Foreign postage 40c additional 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright, 1919, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

242 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Certain Kitchen Troubles 

are dissipated by the use of 
a good cook book, such as 

Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book 

Contains over 700< 7 pages; some 1,500 recipes; full directions how to do everything 
— how to prepare, cook, and serve all manner of foods; how to market profitably 
and select foods; how to carve, and many other things. 

Bound in cloth, illustrated, 32.50; by mail, 32.70. 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes 

Here's variety for you. Many choice and novel recipes for cooking and serving 
our every-day vegetables and introducing some new ones not commonly seen, but 
easily procured. Then you should see the many wonderful dishes where meat 
does not enter in — delightful, appetizing, and nourishing. 

In cloth, 31-50; by mail, 31-65. 

Home Candy Making 

Recipes for Cream T Confections, Fresh Fruits with Cream Jackets, Nuts and Fruit 
Glaces, Nougat, Caramels, Sugar Drops, Taffy, Molasses Candies, Mint Tablets, 
Fudge, Chocolate Tablets and Chips, Turkish Delight, Panoche, Salt Water Taffy, 
Sea Foam, Peanut Brittle, and lots of other good and delectable sweets. 

In cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents. 

Mrs. Rorer's Diet for the Sick 

What to eat and what to avoid in caring for the sick; how to prepare the foods 
recommended; hundreds of recipes for the most tempting and nutritive dishes. 

Cloth, price 32.00; by mail, 32.15. 

Mrs, Rorer's Bread and Bread-Making 

Recipes for Wheat Bread, Whole Wheat Bread, French and Graham Bread, 19th 
Century, Golden Loaf, Swedish Bread; Small Breads, such as Vienna Rolls, Pocket 
Book Rolls, Crumpets, Muffins, German Horns, Nuns' Puffs, etc.; Zwieback, 
Toasts, Pulled Bread, Quick Breads, Steamed Breads, Sweet Breads, Cakes, etc. 

Bound in cloth, price 75 cents; if sent by mail, 80 cents. 



For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

243 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



INDEX FOR NOVEMBER 



Cheese .... 

Chinese Cookery and Customs 
Concerning Cooks and Cookery 
Editorials .... 

Hail, the Cranberry! 

Home Ideas and Economies . 

Lessons in Food and Cookery — The Potato 

Menus ...... 

New Books ...... 

Pies a la Weston ..... 

Putting Thanks into the Thanksgiving Dinner 
Silver Lining, The .... 

Smile On! ...... 

Song, A ..... . 

Story of Coffee, The .... 



• . 



PAGE 

286 
251 
257 
270 
285 
289 
266 
282, 283 
298 
262 
284 
306 
261 
288 
269 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



Artichokes, Creamed 

Beans, String, French Style 

Cake, Almond Sponge. 111. 

Cake, Italian 

Cakes, Raised Potato 

Chestnuts, Browned 

Chicken Filets with Almond Sauce 

Cream, Nutted. 111. 

Jelly, Cranberry 

Jelly, Harlequin. 111. 

Paste, Quick Puff . 

Pork Tenderloin, Broiled 

Pork Tenderloin, French Style 

Pork Tenderloin, Scalloped. 111. 

Pork Tenderloin, Stuffed 



278 Pudding. Macaroni-and-Chicken. 111. 
281 Pudding, Rich Rice 

279 Puffballs, Breakfast. 111. 

279 Roasting Poultry and Birds 

280 Roll, Apple. 111. . 
278 Rolls, Coffee. 111. 

281 Salad, Brazilian. 111. . 

277 Sauce, Cranberry . 

278 Sauce, Currant-Jelly, for Game 
278 Sauce, Olive .... 
280 Stuffing, Almond, for Turkey or Chicken 
275 Stuffing, Bread, for Chicken and Turkey 
274 Sweetbreads with Orange Sauce 

274 Tomatoes, Deviled 

274 Venison, Roast, Virginia Style 



Chicken, Terrapin . 

Eggs, Cuban, on Toast 

Figs, Preserved 

Figs, Spiced . 

Flowers, Crystallized 

Jars, Preserving 

Oysters in Cucumber Cups 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 

294 Peaches, Spiced 



294 
296 
296 
296 
293 
294 



Preserve, White Grape 
Sauce, Brown 
Sauce, Butterscotch 
Sauce, Chocolate Fudge 
Waffles, Rich 



276 
279 
277 
273 
280 
279 
277 
277 
281 
281 
276 
273 
281 
281 
276 



296 
293 
293 
296 
294 
296 



We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for 
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make 
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a 
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BOSTON, MASS. 



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244 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






•Si? 



& 



M 

lip 

1 
M 



•S 



1 



The Boston Cooking School 
Cook Book 

By Fannie Merritt Farmer 

FOR many years the acknowledged leader 
of all cook books, this New Edition con- 
tains in addition to its fund of general infor- 
mation, 2,117 recipes, all of which have been 
tested at Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking 
School; together with additional chapters 
on the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on the 
Drying of Fruits and Vegetables, and on 
Food Values. 

133 illustrations. 6oo pages. $2.25 net 

Cooking For Two 

A Handbook for Young Wives 
By Janet McKenzie Hill 

GIVES in simple and concise style those 
things that are essential to the proper 
selection and preparation of a reasonable 
variety of food for the family of two indivi- 
duals. Menus for a week in each month of 
the year are included. 

"'Cooking for Two,' is exactly what it 
purports to be — a handbook for young 
housekeepers. The bride who reads this 
book need have no fear of making mistakes, 
either in ordering or cooking food supplies." 
— fFoman's Home Companion. 

With iso illustrations. $1.75 net 

Table Service 

By Lucy G. Allen 

A CLEAR, concise and yet comprehensive 
exposition of the waitress' duties. 
Recommended by the American Library 
Association: — "Detailed directions on the 
duties of the waitress, including care of dining- 
room, and of the dishes, silver and brass, the 
removal of stains, directions for laying the 
table, etc." 

Fully illustrated. $1 .33 net 



tt 



H 



Kitchenette Cookery 

By Anna Merritt East ._ 

HERE 'the culinary art is translated into 
the simplified terms demanded by the 
requirements of modern city life. The young 
wife who studies the book carefully may be 
able to save herself and her husband from 
dining in restaurants. Miss East, formerly 
the New Housekeeping Editor of The Ladies' 
Home Journal, presents a book which will be 
of great value to .all city dwellers." — New 
York Sun. Illustrated. $1.25 net 

Cakes, Pastry & Dessert Dishes 

By Janet McKenzie Hill 

THIS book covers fully every variety of 
this particular branch of cookery. Each 
recipe has been tried and tested and vouched 
for, and any cook — whether professional or 
amateur — need only follow directions exactly 
to be assured of successful results. 
Illustrated. $1.60 net 

Salads, Sandwiches and 
Chafing Dish Dainties 

^By Janet McKenzie Hill 3 
OREjthanta hundred different [varie- 
ties of salads among the recipes — 
aiads made of fruit, of fish, of meat, of 
vegetables, made to look pretty in scores of 
different ways." — Washington Times. 
New Edition. Illustrated. $1.60 net 



M' 



The Party Book 



ii 



Invaluable to Every Hostess 
By Winnifred Fales and 
Mary H. Northend 
itains a little of everything about 
parties from the invitations to the enter- 
tainment, including a good deal about 
refreshments."— New York Sun. 
With numerous illustrations from photo- 
graphs. $2.50 net 



TT 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

245 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent postpaid 
upon receipt of price. 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for quota- 
tion on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order to us 
saves effort and express charges. 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 

Fletcher $1.25 

A Guide to Laundry Work. Chambers .75 
American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.50 
American Meat Cutting Charts. Beef, 

veal, pork, lamb — 4 charts, mounted on 

cloth and rollers 10.00 

American Salad Book. M. DeLoup.... 100 
Art and Economy in Home Decorations. 

Priestman 1.00 

Art of Entertaining. Madame Merri. . . 1.00 
Art of Home Candy- Making (with ther- 
mometer, dipping wire, etc.) 3.00 

Art of Right Living. Richards 50 

A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband. 

Weaver and LeCron 1.50 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 1.20 

Better Meals for Less Money. Greene 1.35 
Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . . 1.60 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. . 2.00 
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 2.25 

Bread and Bread-Making. Mrs. Rorer . .75 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50 
Business, The, of the Household. Taber 2.50 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 1.00 
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 

King > 1.00 

Cakes, Pastry and Dessert Dishes. Janet 

M. Hill 1.60 

Candies and Bonbons. Neil 1.25 

Candy Cook Book. Alice Bradley 1.25 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.00 
Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making. 

Hill 1.25 

Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 

Marion H. Neil 1.25 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M.D 1.00 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50 
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.25 

Century Cook Book. Mary Roland 2.00 

Chafing-Dish Possibilities. Farmer.... 1.25 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn . . 2.00 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning. 

Richards and Elliot 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 2.00 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 2.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 

Clothing for Women. L. I. Baldt 2.50 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill. . . .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill. . 1.75 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Living. Richards 1.00 



Cost of Shelter. Richards $1.00 

Course in Household Arts. Sister 
Loretto B. Duff 1.10 



Rorer 

and Activity. 



00 
00 

25 

00 

40 

00 
00 
00 

25 



Dainties. Mrs. Rorer . . . 
Diet for the Sick. Mrs. 
Diet in Relation to Age 

Thompson 1. 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 3. 

Domestic Art in Women's Education. 

Cooley 1 . 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1. 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon ... 2. 
Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 1. 

Easy Entertaining. Benton 1. 

Economical Cookery. Marion Harris 

Neil 1.75 

Efficiency in Home Making and Aid to 

Cooking. Robertson 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Elements of the Theory and Practice of 

Cookery. Williams and Fisher 1.20 

Encyclopaedia of Foods and Beverages. 10.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. Learned 1.50 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 75 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.... 1.50 
Every Woman's Canning Book. Hughes .75 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed 1.25 

Feeding the Family. Rose 2.10 

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. Fannie M. Farmer 2.00 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry Thompson 1.35 

Food and Flavor. Finck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.20 

Food and Nutrition. Bevier and Ushir 1.00 

Food Products. Sherman 2.40 

Food and Sanitation. Forester and 

Wigley 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 4.00 

Food for the Worker. Stern and Spitz. 1.00 
Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs 75 

Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards 1.00 

Food Study. Wellman 1.10 

Food Values. Locke 1.50 

Franco-American Cookery Book. Deliee 3.50 
Fuels of the Household. Marian White .75 
Furnishing a Modest Home. Daniels 1.00 

Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes for 

Meatless Dishes). Sharpe. 2.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
246 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Handbook for Home Economics. Ylagg $0.75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town and 

Country. Florence H. Hall 1.50 

Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary A. 

Boland ' 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G M. Price, 

M.D 1.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Dodd. . . .00 
Home and Community Hygiene. 

Broadhurst 2.50 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Home Economics. Maria Parloa 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Furnishings, Practical and Artis- 
tic. Kellogg 1.75 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.10 

Home Problems from a New Standpoint 1.00 
Home Science and Cook Book. Anna 

Barrows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French.. 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75 

House Furnishing and Decoration. 

McClure and Eberlein 1.50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Housewifery. Balderston 2.50 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan . . . 2.40 
Household Economics.^ Helen Campbell 1.50 
Household Engineering. Christine Fred- 
erick 2.00 

Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. . 1.30 

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25 

Housekeeper's Handy Book. Baxter. . 1.00 
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes. Xeil 1.25 
How to Cook for the Sick and Convales- 
cent. H. V. S. Sachse 1.50 

How to Feed Children. Hogan 1.00 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. Rorer .75 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer 1.00 

I Go a Marketing. Sowle 1.75 

Institution Recipes. Emma Smedley. . 3.00 

Interior Decorations. Parsons 4.00 

International Cook Book. Filippini 1.50 

Key to Simple Cookery. Mrs. Rorer. . 1.25 

King's Caroline Cook Book 1.50 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Kitchenette Cookery. Anna M. East. . . 1.25 
Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. Rose 1.10 
Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.50 

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 75 

Marketing and Housework Manual. 

S. Agnes Donham 1 75 

Mrs. Allen's Cook Book. Ida C. Bailey 

w AIle ° 2.00 

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My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer 1.00 

New Book of Cookery, A. Farmer 2.00 

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Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 

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Nutrition of a Household. Brewster 1 00 

Nutrition of Man. Chittenden 3*00 

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Planning and Furnishing the House 

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Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson i. 50 

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Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 6 00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Patte 2 00 

Practical Food Economy. Alice Gitchell 

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Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

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Principles of Chemistry Applied to the 

Household. Rowley and Farrell 1 25 

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Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan 175 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

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Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book ......... 2.50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill i.go 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 75 

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School Feeding. Bryant 1 50 

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Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.20 
Source, Chemistry and Use of Food 

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Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn iso 

Successful Canning. Powell 2.50 

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Table Service. Allen 1 35 

Textiles. Woolman and McGowan 2 00 

The Chinese Cook Book. Shin Wong 

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The Housekeeper's Apple Book. L. G. 
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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

247 



AMERICAN COOKERY 





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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

248 




Planked Steak, Parisian 

Season a three-pound sirloin steak with salt and 
pepper, roll in oil and broil until almost done. Place 
on plank with boiled onions and half a pound of fresh 
mushrooms removed from brown sauce in which they 
have been cooked. Dot the onions with beaten yolk 
of eggs. Set plank in oven and bake the steak until 
the onions are well browned. Cook potato balls about 
three minutes; then spread and dry in the oven, season 
with salt, butter, and chopped parsley and arrange 
around edge of plank. Cut cooked carrots into small 
cubes; mix with butter and peas and pour around steak. 
At one end of the steak arrange a bunch of asparagus 
tips, over which pour Hollandaise sauce. Pour brown 
sauce over the mushrooms. 

If desired, a border of mashed potato pressed through 
a pastry bag and tube may be substituted for the 
potato balls. The mashed potato should be browned 
on the plank with the steak, onions, and mushrooms. 



249 



A 



rnerican 



Cook 



ery 



VOL. XXIV 



NOVEMBER 



No. 4 



Chinese Cookery and Customs 

By Jane Vos 



WHEN Dr. Wu Ting Fang, former 
Ambassador from China to the 
United States, was leaving this 
country, he was asked two questions, - — 
one propounded by an American official, 
the other by a newspaper man. 

"Has China a national song?'' asked 
the former. 

"Yes," suavely returned the Chinese 
dignitary; "the national song of my 
country is that sung by its teakettles, and 
our poets liken it to the 'echoes of a 
cataract muffled by clouds, a distant 
sea breaking on the rocks, a rainstorm 
sweeping a bamboo forest, or the soughing 
of the pines on a distant hill — ■' 

"Will you ever return to America :' : 
crisply interrupted the newspaper man. 

"Yes," smiled Dr. Wu Ting Fang, 
"in fifty years. I am over sixty now, 
but in my own country I live entirely on 
meatless dishes, so I'm likely to live to a 
ripe old age. The Great Lord Buddha 
said that if you leave meat alone you 
will live forever. All Buddhist priests 
and nuns refrain from a meat dish. 
Maybe I'll live forever, who knows — " 
his voice trailed whimsically away to 
the rumble of the car-wheels. 

"I'll buy my wife a Chinese cook- 
book this very day, and join the Live- 
forever-Sons-of-Heaven," blithely chirped 
the reporter. 

"No, you won't," reassured his com- 
panion, "for there are no cook-books 
in China. All the recipes descend like 
heirlooms of teakwood and jade from 
one generation to another, — diamond 
and pearl idea, you know." 

It is true that Chinese cookery is 



hoary with age, dating back to three 
thousand years before Christ, the time of 
the Emperor Pow Tay Si, who is given 
the credit for i*s invention. It was the 
great philosopher Confucius, however, 
who taught the Chinese how to eat 
scientifically, pointing out the fact that 
the proportion of meat should not be 
more than that of vegetables, and that 
there ought to be a little ginger in one's 
food. Moreover, Confucius would not 
eat anything which was not chopped 
fine, in order to facilitate mastication. 
Today the Chinese people unconsciously 
obey the same law, and it is this universal 
custom that makes their food particu- 
larly nourishing and palatable. 

Long ago in the shadowy past the 
Chinese used knives and forks, the same 
as we do, but connoisseurs decided that 
the metal impaired the flavor of their 
foods, and some ingenious Chinaman 
invented chopsticks. 

There is a story told of a young bride, 
which is proof of the magic of Chinese 
cookery, as well as the esteem in which 
Oriental bridegrooms hold the culinary 
accomplishments of their wives. Ah Lit 
was boasting of this fact to a friend, 
when the latter, in a spirit of fun, asked 
Ah Lit if he thought his wife would cook 
anything he might take a notion to bring 
her. The bridegroom promptly re- 
sponded in the affirmative. A half-hour 
later the Oriental visitor appeared with a 
stalk of sugar-cane and a bustard. Yami 
Kin thanked him profusely, and bowed 
herself into the kitchen. Curious to 
know what she would do, they followed 
her. 



251 



252 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



She dressed the bustard, which is the 
equivalent of our turkey, cooked it, then 
diced it into small pieces. Meantime, 
she scraped the cane, removing the out- 
side rind, running the remaining portion 
through a grinder. To the white of an 
egg she added a little rice-flour, then 
proceeded to mix this with the diced 
bustard and the chopped sugar-cane. 
Rolling the mixture into balls, she fried 
the latter in peanut oil. When gar- 
nished with parsley on a huge Chinese 
platter, decorated with a blue dragon, she 
bowed very low once more, and bade 
them partake of her chef (Tceuvre. 
They did so, and were astonished at its 
palatability. 

Owing to the fact that alleged humor- 
ists have told so many unpleasant stories 
regarding Chinese food, many people 
believe that they live on rice, tea, and ani- 
mals of questionable origin. According to 
one of these chroniclers, an Englishman 
was*the guest of a Mandarin in his home 
in Canton. When the latter offered 



a second helping of meat, the visitor, 
whose curiosity was piqued to know 
whether the chopped dish was fish, flesh, 
or fowl, ejaculated, "Quack! Quack!" 

"Bow-wow!" returned the Mandarin, 
gravely bowing negatively his head. 

Even though such stories bring a smile 
they are harmful. Nevertheless, the 
Orientals do not stand alone in their 
regard for their culinary gift. We Ameri- 
cans have long since recognized their skill, 
and in many households, particularly on 
the western coast, they are preferred as 
chefs, owing to their thrift and precise 
kitchen methods. 

There is an old Chinese superstition 
that on the twenty-third of the last moon, 
a week before the New Year, Maon, the 
Oriental Kitchen God, leaves the earth 
to visit the King of Heaven. For days 
before his departure, therefore, all sorts 
of food dishes are set before his shrine, 
especially sticky sweets, with a hope that 
he will eat freely, and thus glue his mouth 
together, so he will not be able to tell 




AT MEAL-TIME 



CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS 



253 



r 



■ 






THE CHINESE TEA-O.TFIT 



of anything but the good things that 
happened in the kitchens of China. 
No wonder the chefs are thrifty and 
precise! 

Having once acquired the taste for 
Chow Mein, Chop-Suey, Shrimp, Lobster 
or Crab-in-a-Golden Pond, or enjoyed 
the luxury of Lotus-Seed-Broth, Tulip- 
Bulb-Salad, and numberless other Chinese 
dainties, one cannot help having a leaning 
toward things Oriental, and grasps the 
opportunity to visit Chinese restaurants 
whenever occasion permits. To be sure, 
they bring us a pot of tea the first thing 
instead of the accustomed glass of iced 
water, out of politeness to our queer 
way of doing things; but over in China, 
where they think the exact opposite 
the right way, they commence their 
dinner with sweets, nuts, salted pump- 
kin, and sesamum seeds, finishing with 
soup. 

As to their tea, we pour cup after cup 
into the little handleless receptacles, 
forgetting even to miss cream and sugar, 
so delicious is the beverage in the steam- 
ing red-brown pot, bespattered with 
Chinese hieroglyphs and a huge, trailing 
blue-dragon. 

What is the secret of " Char Yet Woo, " 
(Tea) ? Just the right quantity of tea 
leaves, Canton or Oolong, placed in 
the hot earthenware pot, with just the 
right amount of boiling water poured 
over them and allowed to steep con- 
siderably longer than ordinary tea. In 
fact, three to five minutes, which means 



bringing the infusion to a boil does not 
impair the flavor. Afterwards the bev- 
erage is strained into another hot pot. 
Behold the magic of Chinese tea! But 
how different our way of drinking. 
Instead of drinking the beverage in 
ceremonial silence, with merely a bow 
to the lotus blossom on the screen or 
wall before lifting the cup, tucking the 
fan into the depths of capacious sleeves 
in order to be ready to respond to the 
invitation, "Fan Yourself!" after the tea 
has been duly sipped and enjoyed, we 
gulp it down in mouthfuls, like the prosaic 
Occidentalists we are. 

If a stolid Chinaman can be induced to 
talk, he will tell you glibly of the wonderful 
dishes made from unexpected and unusual 
things, just as did the little Chinese 
bride. He will go a step further and 
demonstrate his art, with savory and 
appetizing dishes concocted from un- 
heard-of ingredients. What are some 
of these? Chinese cabbage, green pep- 
pers, fried noodles, water chestnuts 
unskinned, water chestnuts skinned, fun- 
gus, Chinese dried mushrooms, dried 
oysters, dried fish, bean sprouts, dried 
lily flower, birds' nests, Chinese gray 
potatoes, bamboo sprouts cut in pieces, 
Chinese onions, and even lily bulbs. 

Chinese farmers over on Long Island, 
and along the Atlantic and Pacific 
coasts, have developed their vegetable 
industry to such an extent, that Uncle 
Sam has taken notice. In fact, they 
are providing many of the foodstuffs 



254 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



used in the big Oriental restaurants, thus 
saving the expense of foreign shipment. 
For a number of years now there has been 
a large demand among Americans, for 
instance, for Chinese Cabbage (Pak 
Choi), which is preferred as a salad by 
many of us to our native-grown lettuce, 
owing to its crisp succulence. 

In China there are many vegetables on 
this order with which we are not familiar, 
for which tourists soon acquire a great 
taste. For this reason our agricultural 
explorer, Mr. Frank Meyer of the United 
States Bureau of Plant Industry, has 
spent the past six years in China, in- 
vestigating the possibility of introducing 
more of these vegetables, plants, et cetera, 
into the United States. Mr. Meyer 
is enthusiastic in his praise of the Orien- 
tals as farmers, and he believes that we 
would be greatly the gainers in our 
dietary, if we adopted more of their 
nutritious vegetables. Among these he 
mentions the edible bamboo shoots, which 
he pronounces a crisp, freshly flavored 
dish that has no rival. Foreigners in 
the Orient become as partial to them as 
Americans are to asparagus. 

The varieties the Chinese are culti- 
vating for their sprouts are generally 
grown in gardens close to the house, and 
they are heavily fertilized in order to 
insure a maximum of sprouts and the 
greatest tenderness of texture. As to 



fruits, red haw takes the lead. It 
resembles the crab-apple and is much 
finer in flavor than the cranberry. 

Rice, which is regarded as a staple 
food, is a luxury, nevertheless, in the 
northern part of China, where it is both 
scarce and high. It is the staff of life -to 
the Orientals, taking the place of bread, 
butter, and potatoes. Occasionally rice- 
bread appears among the more well-to-do, 
in the form of small steamed loaves on 
state occasions. 

Mushy, wet, overdone rice is unknown 
in China, as the natives are of course 
past-masters in the art of cooking this 
grain. Rice is never boiled over twenty 
minutes, and it is never stirred, nor dis- 
turbed while cooking. At the end of 
twenty minutes it is set to dry on the 
back of the range. This accounts for its 
flakiness. 

Meat substitutes are small ducks, birds, 
bustards (turkeys), which are served with 
a sauce of red haws, just as we use cran- 
berries, chickens, and wild boar. 

According to the science of Oriental 
cookery, a Chinese dish consists of three 
parts, — ■ a meat, secondary, vegetables, 
such as water chestnuts, bamboo sprouts, 
dried oysters, and the topmost layer, or 
garnish, consisting of ham, chicken, or 
pork cut in dice, or bars an inch long, and 
enough parsley to flavor as well as to be 
pleasing to the eye. 




MUSHROOM CHOW MEIN 



ALMOND CAKES 



CHINESE COOKERY AND CUSTOMS 



255 



There are three methods of cooking, — 
steaming, frying, and boiling. In the 
first process, the Chinese cook drains off 
all the water as soon as the food is soft, 
adding just enough primary soup to cover 
the ingredients. Before serving, the 
primary soup is poured off, and the food 
is put in the steamer again, where salt 
is added to taste. 

This primary soup, by the way, which 
gives the superior flavor to all Chinese 
dishes, is really the secret of the magic 
in their cookery. It is used in gravies as 
well as for the first cooking, instead of 
water. To make, equal weights of chicken 
and lean pork are required, — one-half 
pound, each, to about six pints of water. 
The meat is chopped fine and cooked 
slowly for two hours and one-half, until 
the liquid has evaporated. In order to 
do away with the oil, the Chinese put 
into the mixture a bowl of chicken broth, 
straining through a thick cloth until the 
liquid is clear, or the oil is on top, from 
which it is skimmed. It is then kept 
in a cool place. 

Any one, wishing to serve a Sunday 
night supper, or to entertain a la Chinese, 
can easily duplicate at home most of the 
famous restaurant dishes, as the in- 
gredients may be obtained at Chinese 
markets and groceries in any city where 
there is a Chinese Quarter. Among 
these ingredients are many dried foods, 
as the Oriental people hunt their foods 
in summer and store them away for 
winter use the same as we. All the 
foods exported to this country, therefore, 
are examined by a physician, and his 
certificate is pasted on the packages and 
jars bound for overseas. 

Instead of using butter or lard for 
cooking, they substitute peanut, sesamum, 
and chicken oils for frying foods, and 
they always make use of a big iron or 
steel frying pan. To make the peanut 
oil, the nuts are skinned, then fried, turn- 
ing repeatedly until they are yellow. 
They are then placed in a grinder, — 
a crude hollowed block of thick wood 
with a hole in one end. There are smaller 




CHOP-SUEY WITH BAMBOO SHOOTS 

holes, through which the oil comes when 
the peanuts are crushed by a stick of 
wood in the larger hole. 

Syou, sometimes spelled "Soyu." is the 
Chinese Worcestershire sauce, greatly 
esteemed for the flavor it lends to any 
dish. Chow Mein and Chop-Suey are 
practically flavorless without this piquant 
sauce. 

Through ignorance most Americans 
shrink at the mere mention of Bird's 
Xest Soup, yet this is the most expensive 
food on the Oriental menu, and by far 
the choicest tid-bit. Who of us feel a 
repugnance for honey? Well, what is the 
difference? The nests are made by a 
sea-bird in southern China, — really a 
Chinese Swallow, — from a delicate sea 
moss, and the gelatinous substance or 
saliva is much the same as the honey 
bee's when it makes the comb. The 
nest looks like spinach, and even those of 
best quality contain some impurities, 
such as straw and feathers; but these 
are easily removed by shaking in water. 

The birds build these nests in almost 
inaccessible cliffs, where it is difficult for 
even the most agile young Oriental to 




CHINESE CABBAGE 



256 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




To make, proceed 



CHINESE MELONS 

climb, and that is why they cost so much. 
They are brought to this country dried, 
and require a forty-eight-hour or so 
soaking before they can be cooked. A 
dollar to a dollar and a half is the price. 

Noodles are served as part of several 
dishes, such as Chow Mein. They may 
be made at home, or purchased at a 
noodle-factory ready for use. They are 
always fried in peanut oil. Two quarts 
of peanut oil will fry a half-pound of 
noodles at once, and it requires only a 
minute or two to fry them crisp and 
golden brown. They are then set aside 
to drain until ready to use. The Chinese 
use blotting paper for draining them. 

Chow Mein is fried noodles covered 



with Chop-Suey. 

as follows : 

1 pound noodles 

1 egg scrambled and cut into shreds 

\ pound lean pork, shredded 

\ cup celery, shredded 

\ cup Chinese mushrooms, shredded 

5 Chinese water chestnuts, sliced thin 

\ cup bamboo sprouts, shredded 

\ cup chicken stock 

1 teaspoonful Chinese Soyu sauce 

1 drop sesamum oil 

1 teaspoonful cornstarch, dissolved 

Into two quarts of peanut oil put one 
pound of noodles; fry crisp and drain. 
Fry one-half pound of lean pork, dice; 
add the celery, water chestnuts, mush- 
rooms, bamboo sprouts, soyu, sesamum 
oil, and chicken stock, cooking all to- 
gether for fifteen minutes. Add the 
cornstarch to the stock last of all. 

Chicken Chow Mein is perhaps the 
most palatable of all. It is made as 
follows : 



2 eggs 

1 quart peanut oi 
\ pound noodles 

4 ounces pork 

2 pounds chopped 
chicken 



1 stalk celery 
1 onion 

\ pound breast chick- 
en, shredded 
3 hard-cooked eggs 



1 tablespoonful soyu 

Have the peanut oil boiling hot and 
toss in the noodles. Fry until they are 
crisp, then lift from oil and drain while 
preparing the following: 



. 


•_ ',;-•-• -4. 


"' -. ' .■ 


,;„•. :^. 




aUm.. 


^fl 


...■«—. ....:L. .\...-.-^ 


■ 








St! 


- w^ 






A |§fl| 


1 1 3k83i9IKS9hE£ ''••■••■ '■>'"-if. i ^w' ; *^B 



LYCHEE NUTS 



PEANUT CANDY 



!l 



CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY 



257 



Four ounces of fine-chopped pork and 
one-half pound of chicken chopped, to 
which add level tablespoonful of soyu. 
one teaspoonful of salt, and cook ten 
minutes. Lay the noodles on the platter, 
forming a layer at the bottom of the dish. 
Place the vegetables and gravy on top, 
add a layer of the shredded chicken 
breast, lastly, the hard-cooked eggs, crum- 
bled, as a garnish. Serve very hot. 

Chinese sweets are considered a neces- 
sity by the Orientals. Among their 
favorite are Almond Cakes. To make: 



1 pound flour 
% pound sugar 
| pound lard 



3 eggs 

j teaspoonful alka- 
line solution 



Mix flour, sugar, lard, eggs, and solu- 
tion well on board. Add a small quan- 
tity of lard at a time until every particle 
of flour contains an equal amount of 
each substance. Mold into cakes the 



desired size, placing in the center of each 
an almond. Put into a suitable pan and 
bake in the oven until brown. The 
length of time depends on the tempera- 
ture of oven. 
Peanut candy: 

5 pound sugar £ pound fried peanuts 

Put one bowl of hot water in a hot, 
oiled pan. To this add sugar, cook, 
stirring constantly until no water is left. 
Mix the peanuts with sugar on the board. 
Roll while hot until one-half inch thick. 
Let cool. Cut the desired size. 

Pak Choi or Chinese cabbage salad — 
"Oriental Romaine" it is designated 
in some markets — is served, cut up 
salad fashion, with a dressing made of 
peanut oil, a few drops of soyu, a tea- 
spoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, a 
teaspoonful of sugar, a fine-minced bud of 
garlic, and a shredded green pepper. 



Concerning Cooks and Cookery 

By David Harold Colcord 



"Lend me, I pray you, the sauce pans 
In which you boiled your bean?." 

— Timocles. 



I 



HAVE observed," lectured the 
judge to a certain crowded Chicago 
police court, "that fully half of 
these domestic quarrels that I hear, 
spring full blown from some one's 
breakfast table. A leathery piece of 
ham once lodged in a man's interior is 
responsible for more crime than all the 
liquor that flows." 

That judge was a regular judge! He 
deserves to be immortalized. He merits 
a place alongside of Epicurus or Charlie 
Lamb. He knows life and what makes 
it go, — three square meals a day. He 
knows, and knows that he knows, that 
upon the final, scientific flap that the 
little wife at home gives the early morn- 
ing cake, depends peace and the pursuit 
of happiness. 



Libraries have been dedicated to the 
academic chase after the Antediluvian 
Flea, and learned men of the professorial 
stripe have laid down their lives on the 
altar of Pure Science. These volumes 
are available (under cover of dust). 
From the standpoint of real, red-blooded 
civilization, why is there no volume on a 
vastly more vital subject, "The Evo- 
lution of a Hard-Fried Egg"? The 
History of Cookery is the history of 
happiness. The cook stove and not the 
hearth is the tie that has bound (and 
unbound), since Mother Eve prepared 
the first breakfast in the first suburban 
home in the outskirts of the Garden of 
Eden. 

According to early Biblical accounts, 
cooking to satisfy hunger was merely 
incident to its more elaborate function 
of religious observance. As a fine art, 
little or no progress is recorded until 



258 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Belshazzar, capitalist and regal patron of 
the Follies, saw the handwriting on the 
wall. The incident marks, perhaps, the 
early appearance of our modern tendency 
to deal with effects rather than causes, — ■ 
tradition states that he consulted his 
court physician, and little dreamed in 
his pristine ignorance that varicose veins 
and a leaky heart originate in the kitchen. 

Contemporary savagery and barbarism 
furnish one easy access to the methods 
and practice that must have been popular 
long before the days of soft-shell crabs 
and fireless cookers. Our own American 
Indians ground grain on slabs and cooked 
it into form in seething pots of wood, 
woven grass, stone, or clay. Even to- 
day in the Southwest, the remaining 
Indians use ollas or water jars, and 
cooking pots of gourds and shells. 
The question has always been "how to 
get the fire to the food, and not how to 
get the food to the fire." The Filipino 
builds his fire between two huge stones. 
A flat stone of considerable thickness is 
placed over these and heated red hot. 
Then the fire is pulled from under this 
improvised stove and the cooking is done 
by the retained heat. These dark- 
skinned cooks are wiser than the Adminis- 
tration ever has given them credit for. 
Western civilization thought they had 
discovered something unique when the 
paper bag and fireless cooker was put on 
the market a few years ago, but the so- 
called Filipino hot-stone is identically 
the same proposition, — minus the frills 
of a kitchen, dining-room, and tea- 
wagon. The same kitchen utensils are 
today used in Mexico, South America, 
and parts of Asia. 

The Indian clay basket is interesting. 
The basket was made of woven grass 
lined with clay. The bottom was flat 
and of molded clay into which sand had 
been worked. Filled with corn, the 
basket was kept in motion over the fire, 
and thus our first corn-popper. Inter- 
esting to me, because of all the good 
things of this earth, which were not meant 
for my particular digestive apparatus, 



pop corn is the best and worst. A whiff 
in my nostrils is most deadly in its seduc- 
tive charms, — the whole pan must be 
cleaned before I am again a free agent. 

Notwithstanding the free publicity 
given it, there is certainly great good in 
the Return-to-Nature Movement. A re- 
version to the kitchen practice of the 
past, when food was so prepared that 
men lived to the ripe old age of nine 
hundred and ninety-nine, may, if en- 
forced now, save some of us from being 
relegated at the venerable age of forty 
to the "unavailable." This kindly step 
backward, and then upward, has lately 
lost vogue because a few feminine zealots 
found the ground too slippery and mis- 
interpreted the movement. To wit: the 
return to Mother Nature of a certain 
clientele of a fashionable New England 
finishing school. They lacked perspective 
— one can't get far in a Boston suburb! 

Let us continue in the Evolution of 
Cooking Utensils, with an earnest en- 
deavor to avoid harmless digressions. 

Let us dismiss our contemporary exam- 
ination with one more example. Let us 
look at the cave-dweller who frequents 
the modern four to six room flat. Make 
directly to the kitchen and invite the lady 
to step out so that one of us may step in. 
Here we have an exact replica of the 
place where our aboriginal, red-eyed 
ancestors fought for air against the 
sputtering, sizzling, smoking, incense- 
breathing of a cook stove. From all I 
can learn, the fittest survived only be- 
cause the onion, the cabbage, soft coal, 
and natural gas were not in the lists. 
Now, honest, is it any wonder that you 
can't get a table in a New York restau- 
rant without buying the head-waiter a 
new home? Folks will not stay home 
under those conditions! 

This is an age that runs to types. 
There are two types of man: the 
Hamlet type that is all thought and no 
action; and the one that got the reverse 
English, as, per example, Charles Chap- 
lin, who acts but never thinks. There are 
two types of women: the innocent, 



CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY 



259 



blue-eyed, blue-ribboned, open-air type; 
and the Vampire. We men prefer some 
qualities of one or the other, — either of 
Mary or Theda. The same principle is 
universal. Cookery is subject to its 
influence. Cooking throughout the ages 
has followed two types. It has either 
been incidental to the fire, or the fire 
incidental to cooking. That is to say, 
fire has been built and a portion of its 
heat so directed that it was applied to 
cooking food, while the remainder of the 
heat was wasted. The log fire in the 
Colonial fireplace is an example. The 
practice of this type of cooking has grown 
in direct dependence on the abundance of 
fuel. It was cheaper and easier for the 
New Englander to burn a whole log to 
roast a sirloin, than to fashion a fire that 
would only roast meat. The second type 
is the direct opposite. The modern 
electric range is an example par excel- 
lence. With wood, coal, oil, and gas 
almost prohibitive because of price, we 
are approaching the method of the electric 
range as the ideal. This type of cooking 
lays down as a first principle the con- 
servation and the direction of heat. 

It is interesting to note that according 
to Charles Lamb's "Dissertation on 
Roast Pig," roast pork dates from the 
conflagration of an entire Chinese village. 
Incidentally several litters of pigs were 
nicely broiled, and Bobo, a curious son, 
happened to lick his fingers that were 
smeared with burnt pig. News of the 
deliciousness spread literally by wild-fire, 
as hundreds of villages were burned in 
order to have roast pig. This is a classic 
example, indeed, of the wasteful type of 
cooking referred to above. 

Let us trace the progress of cookery 
throughout the ages. In barbaric times, 
according to history, no cooking was done, 
and mankind lived on roots, fruits, 
insects, and raw flesh. Personally I have 
always wondered about the insects, — 
their size, tastiness, etc. With the de- 
velopment of agriculture, the sun and fire 
were both used for cooking fish, flesh, 
fruit, and berries were dried in the sun 



and thus preserved. Trouble was ex- 
perienced at the start in procuring vessels 
that would hold fluid and resist heat. 
Until one was found, skin bags were used 
for boiling. Stones were heated and 
dropped, one after another, into the bag 
until the water attained a boiling-point. 
Meat was suspended by cords from spits 
and turned carefully as it roasted. Often 
the meat was wound around green sticks 
and thus suspended in the fire. The 
Turk employs the same method today. 
Later a gridiron made of bars of wood 
was devised for meat. Hence our word 
"grilling." 

The following passage shows that the 
Greeks understood the effect of heat and 
water on food. 

"Placing all my pans upon the fire, I 
soaked the ashes well with oil, to raise 
a rapid heat for broiling." ■ — Archedius. 

The cook in Athens held the life and 
honor of his master in his hands, so 
common was poisoning by food; honors 
and wealth were bestowed upon those 
who had ability. Cooking stood high 
among the professions, and the "chef" 
occupied a prominent place in political 
affairs. 

Cooking became a "fine art" with the 
Greeks only to propitiate the Gods or 
celebrate a victory. As a rule, the 
Greeks were frugal in their fare, and it 
was not until their contact with the East 
that profusion was introduced to their 
banquets, but when it came, it set the 
pace, for all subsequent ages, of gluttony. 
Xerxes tells us that whole cities were 
destroyed in order to provide for one 
banquet. Plato boasted his teacher, 
Socrates, as the only man sober enough to 
walk after a quiet "club dinner." One 
fact is significant to adepts of the quick 
lunch, and that is that the Gods loved 
fried meat. 

The Romans were not only imitators, 
but went the Greeks one better. A 
report has come down to us that five 
hundred nightingales' tongues were served 
at one Roman feast. The leader of 
Roman society held "first place" by 



260 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



creating culinary surprises at his table, 
and by serving rare dishes. It is not 
presumptuous to assume that Antony 
and Cleopatra were the first users of the 
chafing-dish. 

The Monks seem to be the only people 
that dined on prepared food during the 
Dark Ages, and it is said that in the ab- 
sence of other-worldliness, they put 
cookery on the map. 

The Domesday Book in early Britain 
contains an account of one Robert 
Argyllon who received a manor for 
serving a certain dish to William the 
Conqueror on his coronation day. 

Modern cooking, as a fine art, begins 
with the visit of Catherine de' Medici to 
Paris, where she taught the Court the 
subtleties of the Italian kitchen. And 
notwithstanding the fact that Napoleon 
is said to have left a Parisian cook in 
every country he invaded, Paris remains 
today the mecca of Chefs and Cookery. 
Among other things that we owe to 
Catherine, is the discovery and distribu- 
tion of "ices" for which Paris is famous. 

Cookery made some strange bedfellows 
in early France. Vatel, the great Conde's 
cook, suicided because fish which he 
ordered for a certain dinner did not 
arrive. Mayonnaise is ascribed to the 
famous Richelieu. James the First was 
the most abused man in England because 
he affected the French habit of using a 
fork. Women adopted a tripartite pro- 
fession known as "Physiche, Surgery, 
and Cookery." 

Let me refer for convenience again to 
the two standard types or methods of 
cookery which I will call "wasteful" and 
"scientific." Naturally the first type came 
(with New England's several million 
Pilgrim ancestors) in the Mayflower, and 
landed at Plymouth Rock. What a 
relief it must have been to young Johnnie 
Alden and his playmates to gaze upon 
the primeval forest with its millions of 
cords of fire- wood! At that early day 
a tree containing enough lumber to build 
a dozen modern rabbit hutches was worth 
less than a modern match. Thus with 



their open fireplaces, they burned down 
our forests with the random of a Nero. 
But they weren't posting any town or- 
dinances to "Dump no Tin Cans Here." 
Neither were they troubled in spirit 
because of a tardy garbage man. Food 
and utensils were scarce. 

A benevolent Providence has preserved 
this same type of cooking — with no 
regard to fuel — for us today, for as 
wood became scarce, we simply walked 
out and discovered oil. coal, and natural 
gas. Not so in Europe. Centuries ago 
the cook learned to husband his fuel, and 
not a stick more was, and is, used than 
is necessary to heat the food. It was too 
hard to get, and too costly. 

Water for fuel is our next best bet, and 
then, who knows, perhaps the sun, as in 
days of old, will serve us. I will return 
to that later. 

When one stops to reckon that iron 
was not cast in England until 1542, no 
proof is necessary to establish the fact 
that the early colonist brought few 
utensils. Tinware was not manufactured 
in this country until 1770. Colonial 
kitchens and dining-rooms were equipped 
largely with wood and pewter. 

Cooking history would certainly be in 
the making, if one of our Won't-Get- 
Married-Unless-I-Can-L i v e-A s-Well-As- 
Mother-Does American beauties, were 
forced to keep house on the outfits listed 
below. This colonial dame kept house in 
1640 and used — 



2 brasse skillets 


1 pewter bottle 


1 ladle 


1 warming pan 


1 candlestick 


13 pewter spoons 


1 mortar, all of brasse 


! 1 stupan 


1 brasse pot 


3 bowles 


7 pewter dishes 


1 wooden cup 


1 pewter bason 


1 wooden platter 


6 porringers 


2 drinking horns 


2 pewter candlesticks 


1 little pott 


1 frudishe 


2 hogsheads 


2 sasers 


2 barrels 


1 small tub 


1 cowle 


7 bigger pewter dishes 2 furkins 


1 salt 


2 pewter cupps 



CONCERNING COOKS AND COOKERY 



261 



Some of these kettles weighed thirty or 
forty pounds! Think of it, and yet the 
I. W. W.'s preach today that the world 
was misconceived, — when a man and 
his wife can be getting that good old 
snooze at seven A.M., while a clock and 
thermostat automatically start the oat- 
meal and pork chops in their electric 
range. Oh, why should the spirit of 
woman be proud! 

When Priscilla got ready to entertain 
her relatives for Christmas dinner, some 
one had to get a new green lug-pole for the 
fireplace. On this the utensils were 
suspended over the open fire. Woe to 
the day when the lug-pole charred and 
broke, for then the whole dinner went 
into the fire. 

It was not until one hundred years 
later that the first iron crane was used. 
The Dutch oven did not come into use 
until sometime after the revolutionary 
days. The first stove, of the jam type, 
was introduced by Sower in German- 
town in 1730. 

Benjamin Franklin invented the first 
cooking stove in 1741. He advertised 
that it would "consume its own smoke." 
In spite of his hand-printed propaganda, 
the ladies of Philadelphia, character- 
istically, refused to accept a "contrivance 
whose smoke injured their complexion. " 
Benjamin Franklin and his methods of 
advertising won, so it was that the stove 
superseded the fireplace for cooking. 

Following, by a process of adaptation to 



fuels available, came the oil^ stove, coal 
stove, and gas range. About 1910 the 
crest of the wave of wastefulness was 
reached, and the poor man began to 
consider ways and means of fuel con- 
servation. The "paper bag" was tried. 
Its principle was splendid, — a step 
forward, but its practice spoiled many 
well-intended dinners. It occasionally 
broke and spilled its contents. The 
principle of cooking by retained heat was 
again employed a little later in the fire- 
less cooker. The fireless cooker deserves 
, honorable mention, for it certainly has 
some excellent qualities. I fear that 
something is wrong with the merchandis- 
ing methods of the manufacturer, for it 
has not proved as popular as it should. 

When one observes, as I did the other 
day, a couple of newly-weds lolling down 
the Avenue at 5.30 P.M. with apparently 
no thought of the morrow, one begins to 
wonder if the young lady's good grand- 
mother is entirely at peace with the world 
in the place where she has gone. One 
can almost hear her say, "Well, times 
have changed. I declare, when I was 
your age, this time of day found me 
gettin' the potatoes over for supper." 

What I actually did hear, was, 
"Charlie, dear, did you set the clock on 
our new range for 6.00 o'clock?" 

■Times have changed! Water churning 
into giant turbine generators today is 
creating Electricity — the fuel of to- 
morrow. 



Smile On! 



I'm just a little ditty and not the least bit witty. 
But listen, I've a secret up my sleeve. 

If you're forever sighing 

And all the world decrying, , 
Your friends will all excuse themselves and leave. 



There is an old, old story, as old as Mother Morey, 
That, if you give, the world gives back to you, 
With interest fully double, 
So why not take the trouble 
To give the world a cheery smile or two! 

Chorus 

So make it your intention 

With proper comprehension 
To see the world from every point of view. 

Smile on if you're defeated, 

Or if you think you're cheated, 
Smile on and soon the world will smile on you! 

— Caroline L. Sumner. 



Pies a la Weston 

A THANKSGIVING STORY 
By Alice Margaret Ashton 

THE cloud was but the size of a emphatically, "what a lot his foolishness 

sheet of note-paper. Yet it was cost him! Cheer up, little girl — you're 

the first that had hovered above a corking cook. Remember what a 

the charming white cottage. ' chance this is for both of us, and we'll 

"I tell you, Agnes," exulted young land Uncle Robert, see if we don't!" 

Robert Weston, happily unobservant of Left to herself, Agnes Weston sank 

the cloud, and excitedly waving the back in a dejected little heap on the garden 

offending note-paper by way of em- bench. She felt perfectly justified in the 

phasis, " I tell you, if Uncle Robert takes tears which dripped over her flushed 

an interest in us, we're made, little girl!" cheeks. 

"I don't think I understand," admitted Justified, that is, until a gentle voice 

Agnes Weston, "just what he intends — " very close behind her murmured en- 

"Why, he's tired of wandering over treatingly: "My dear, my dear!" 

the earth — no home, no intimate family "Oh," cried Agnes, sitting up very 

connections. That's why he went into straight, "I did not mean to be so foolish!" 

the war. But now that is over he is no "No more did I mean," pursued this 

better off. smiling neighbor, "to hear through the 

" So now he proposes to come here for a trellis what was not intended for my 

month, and if he likes the prospect, put in ears." 

his money and his influence with me and "I — I've never had a guest come and 

just make things hum. Why, it will stay — -and he is so hard to please — and 

mean success right from the start, instead he never accepts any dessert except pie. 

of after years of struggle and grind." Think of that — pie! I've always 



"But here I With us!" remonstrated shunned pie-making, and now to think 

Agnes. "Your Uncle Robert, of all Bob's whole future may depend upon 

people!" she added dolefully. my making them! Not just pies, but 

"Uncle Bob is all right," insisted his real Weston pies — pies a la Weston, I 

namesake, enthusiastically. "Why, what suppose I ought to say," she giggled a bit 

did you think?" he added hastily at sight hysterically. 

of his wife's face. "Course he wouldn't "But isn't it dreadful," she added 

think of living with us indefinitely, contritely, "for me to be talking like 

kitten! It's just for the month of his this?" 

visit he will be here with us. Surely you "My intrusion may seem dreadful, 

want to make him welcome?" too," pursued the gentle voice through 

"You do not understand," pleaded the trellis, where a few brilliant leaves 

Agnes, patiently. "Uncle Robert is the still fluttered gaudily. "But I couldn't 

dread of every woman in the family — bear to see you worried without offering 

even experienced housekeepers like your to help. 

mother! Why, Bobbie, he quarreled "I was ' raised' in the pie-belt, myself, 

with the sweetest girl in Roxberry, be- I've even heard of the Westons of Tribes 

cause they disagreed over pies!" Hill. Suppose you come over and we 

With a laugh young Robert Weston will map out our campaign." 
lifted his athletic figure to its full height, That hour spent in pretty Miss Well- 
drawing his wife up with him. "Then man's library greatly reassured Agnes 
we'll show him," he boasted, kissing her Weston, — Miss Wellman, whom she had 

262 



PIES A LA WESTON 



263 



hitherto known merely as a rather formal 
front-door neighbor. 

The appearance of Uncle Robert a 
week later was also reassuring. He had 
young Robert's athletic build, with the 
flat back of a soldier, blue eyes that 
twinkled with a shrewd humor and an 
obstinate set to his chin that reminded 
Agnes of the old story about the sweetest 
girl in Roxberry. 

Young Robert was genuinely delighted 
to do honor to his favorite uncle. Agnes 
seconded him heartily. And Uncle 
Robert, possessed of an honest desire to 
approve of these young people, felt his 
confidence increase with each course of 
the first dinner he was privileged to eat 
beneath their roof. 

Dexterously Agnes cleared the table, 
slipping the plates and platters snugly out 
of sight on the lower tray of the tea-wagon. 

Triumphantly she brought from the 
serving table a beautiful pie in a beautiful 
silver holder that sparkled emphatically 
of wedding gifts. 

"A pumpkin pie!" exclaimed Uncle 
Robert, approvingly. " Pumpkin pie with 
a ring of currant jelly, after the good old 
Weston custom! How any one can con- 
sider pumpkin pie complete without 
currant jelly surpasses my comprehension. 

"Don't cut it for a moment, my dear," 
he remonstrated as Agnes picked up the 
heavy silver knife — also sparklingly 
suggestive of rice and roses. "It has 
been long since I have beheld so appe- 
tizing a picture. The same beautiful 
color! The same fluted crust! And, I'll 
wager, made after the same old recipe, 
my dear?" he finished delightedly. 

Agnes flushed becomingly, whether 
from pleasure or embarrassment. 

"You can depend upon its being the 
real thing," affirmed Robert, coming to 
the rescue. "Though one must make 
allowances for the fact that our modern 
housekeeper lacks the freshly picked 
pumpkins and the limitless cream and 
stuff Great-great-grandmother Weston 
doubtless commanded when she orig- 
inated the recipe." 



"Assuredly," agreed Uncle Robert, 
genially. For he observed a tremor in 
the hand wielding the pie-knife. And 
already he felt a deep admiration, even 
affection, for the charming young wielder! 
"My dear," he added gallantly, after an 
experimental taste of the golden wedge 
on his plate, "in Great-great-grand- 
mother's place I imagine you might have 
excelled her. This is a treat, indeed, for a 
homeless old wanderer." 

"Push the plate over this way, Agnes," 
suggested Robert. "Uncle Bob and I 
will enjoy helping ourselves as I remember 
doing when a kid in the old buttery at 
Tribes Hill." 

"Well begun is half-done" is a true 
maxim worthy of greater mention. No 
doubt about it, that first dinner was a 
great success. 

Between the activities of setting the 
dining-room in order and washing the 
dishes in the little kitchen to the ac- 
companiment of a contented rumble of 
conversation from the living-room hearth, 
Agnes carried the news across gardens to 
the anxious neighbor conspirator. 

" Perfectly gorgeous ! I feel like a cheat 
to accept credit for a pie like that. Not 
tomorrow, thank you — I certainly do not 
wish to be guilty of ' riding a free horse to 
death 'or of pampering a man to the extent 
of giving him pie every day! Now I 
must fly." 

But she popped her flushed, laughing 
face back into the kitchen to add: "But 
you're a darling angel, just the same." 

Confided Agnes to her husband on the 
second night of Uncle Robert's visit: 
"He is a regular pie-fiend. I know he 
did not really consider my dinner a 
success, though my pudding was de- 
licious." 

"Why not give him pie?" advised 
Robert, indulgently. "We can stand it 
for a month. Think of the limousine 
you'll be driving when we get the business 
really going." 

Uncle Robert said little, but his 
shrewd eyes missed no detail of the de- 



264 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



licious apple pie that put in its appearance 
at the end of the next dinner. At sight 
of the crooked spray lhat sprawled 
across its top like a sprig done in eyelet 
embroidery, a satisfied smile lighted his 
face. "I was raised on pie like this," 
he told Agnes, accepting a generous 
second helping. 

The days of Uncle Robert's visit passed 
happily, except that Agnes' conscience, 
usually of crystal clearness, troubled her 
continuously. "I'll never be able to 
pay that darling Anne Wellman — never 
in this world! And it seems so despicable 
to sail under the false colors of those 
twenty-odd pies!" 

For the pies were making an im- 
pression; there could be no doubt about 
it. More and more frequently did the 
middle-aged Colonel pause before the 
white cottage in a nifty roadster to 
whisk his niece off for a ride through the 
glorious sharpness of the November 
afternoons. More and more often did he 
draw her into the discussions before the 
evening fire. All of which added not at 
all to that discerning young person's 
peace of mind. 

But, conscience or no, she couldn't 
suppress a pulse of pride as she success- 
fully conveyed to the serving plates, one 
evening, such a custard pie as beggars 
description: flaky crust, baked just 
right; golden filling, firm, tender, fading 
into a creamy, crushy surface. 

"My dear," observed Colonel Weston, 
" I wish I had words to tell you what a pie 
like this means to a man forced to eat 
'wholesale pies' for twenty years." 

"I suppose the most convincing com- 
pliment to the cook is a hearty appetite," 
smiled young Robert, genially. "Help 
yourself, Uncle Bob." 

Agnes could not bring herself to utter 
a word. 

"It does put you in a sort of hole, I can 
see that," Robert admitted to his wife 
later that evening. "I'll tell you what, 
dear; day after tomorrow is Thanks- 
giving and the end of Uncle Robert's 
visit. After he is gone, get that nice 



Miss Anne to teach you all she knows 
about pies, and when you have mastered 
the whole business — which you can do, 
never fear — make a clean breast of it 
to Uncle Robert. He will admire your 
spunk!" 

"You think that|will be all right?" 
faltered Agnes. 

"Course it will be all right! Be a 
sport, kid. You've done every other 
last thing since he has been here except 
build those pies, and I'm proud of you." 

Agnes felt better next day. If she 
had felt entirely easy about the pies, it 
would have been such a joy to have 
Uncle Robert with them. He seemed to 
like them and their little white cottage 
so much. 

"Huckleberry pie!" he shouted joy- 
ously, quite forgetting his manners and 
making Agnes laugh at his boyish en- 
thusiasm. "Tribes Hill used to be 
covered with blueberries — Bob will re- 
member. And no blueberry pie tastes so 
good as the one with a 'cart-wheel' on its 
upper lid. Did you use a paper funnel 
in the middle to keep the juice from 
boiling out, eh?' ! he pursued, delighted 
with his "inside" knowledge. 

Agnes laughed gaily. "But I think it 
looks like a sunburst," she observed. 

"No doubt," Uncle Robert conceded 
genially. "But cart-wheels were more 
comprehensible to the youth of Tribes 
Hill, my child." 

After dinner before the glowing fire 
Uncle Robert was unusually silent. 

Out of this silence he spoke suddenly. 
"Robert," he said, "I have decided to 
stay here andfgo in with you, if you are 
willing?"! 

"Willing! I guess you know as well 
as I do that it will be the making of me, 
Uncle Robert," cried the young man, 
gratefully. 

"Well, well. If I can help a bit, I'm 
glad. I like you children, I am willing to 
admit. I like the way you conduct your 
business and the way you live. And I 
want to say that Agnes has done her 
full share in bringing me to this decision." 



PIES A LA WESTON 



265 



Breakfast was late at the white cottage 
next morning. The men had sat long 
over their plans the night before. And 
for some reason sleep and Agnes seemed 
to be total strangers. 

As she watched Uncle Robert that 
morning and remembered all he was 
doing for them, food choked her. She 
couldn't "cheat" him that way- — she 
had to make a clean breast of it now . 

"Uncle Robert," she cried, "I have 
not played fair. I'm not what you think 
I am at all! I never made those pies 
you liked so much — not one of them." 

"You didn't make them?" The blank 
astonishment on the Colonel's face grad- 
ually gave place to shrewd speculation. 
"Who did, then, may I ask?" he inquired. 

"My next-door neighbor," whispered 
Agnes, miserably. 

"She came in and caught Agnes crying 
and found out you were unusually fond 
of pies and that Agnes wasn't much 
used to company, you see," explained 
young Robert, gallantly jumping into the 
breach. 

"And when Miss Wellman offered to 
make pies during your stay we didn't see 
anything wrong in it, you see. We 
didn't consider how it^ would be sailing 
under false colors — " 

Robert's floundering explanation came 
to an abrupt end. Their guest, with a 
muttered word, had left the table — the 
room — the house! 

In her sunny kitchen next door Miss 
Anne Wellman had an early start with 
her Thanksgiving pies. A cheery fire 
snapped in the bright stove. Stray little 
curls peeped from beneath her crisp 
white cap. And as she rolled pastry and 
fitted it in the tins her thoughts drifted 
across to those two nice children next 
door and to their exacting guest, now 
soon to depart. 

These thoughts lent an indignant color 
to her cheeks and emphasis to the thumps 
of her rolling-pin. 

"I've as good a notion as I ever had 
in my life to mark every one of these 



mince pies with a cart-wheel," she 
murmured aloud vindictively. 

"Why don't you?" genially suggested 
a voice behind her. 

In the doorway stood a tall, athletic 
man with the straight back of a soldier, 
twinkling blue eyes darkened now with 
some deeper feeling, and a chin that could 
look firm. 

"Anne," he said, closing the door and 
coming quickly across the sunny space, 
"I've always known I was a fool and in 
the wrong, but my pride would never let 
me own it. If there is anything on this 
footstool more set than a Weston^ of 
Tribes Hill, it is—"; ' 

"A Wellman of Roxberry," finished 
Miss Anne, smiling faintly. "I've been 
making pies the Weston way all these 
years, just^to punish myself," she ad- 
mitted. 

"Who gives a hang about pies?' : ex- 
claimed the man, putting his arms close 
round her. "You are all that matters, 
Anne! Anne!" 

For a space the kitchen was filled with 
silence — a happy, wonderful silence. 
"Will you let it be tomorrow, Anne?" 
he begged earnestly. "A real Thanks- 
giving, dearest!" 

Then a scurry of feet soundedjDutside 
and the door burst open. 

"Oh, I've 'fessed up, Miss Anne—" 
Agnes Weston's words stopped as if the 
current had been snapped off. 

"Aunt Anne, you mean," corrected 
Colonel Weston, serenely. " Come here, 
child, and kiss your aunt and uncle." 

Louder footsteps rang without. 
"Agnes?" called young Robert, anxiously. 

"Come in, Partner," the Colonel in- 
vited cordially. "We were just planning 
a joint Thanksgiving dinner. If you 
children think you'll have turkey enough 
to go round, we're planning on plenty 
of pies for the crowd!" He ended with a 
chuckle, his arm still about the flushed 
and very pretty pie-maker. 

The eyes of Anne and Agnes met. 
"A la W 7 eston," they murmured in 
unison. 



Lessons in Food and Cookery, 
with Simple Appliances 

The Potato 
By Anna Barrows 

Instructor in Cookery, Teachers College, Columbia University 



THE potato is less ornamental 
than the apple, but is suffi- 
ciently important to deserve a 
lesson all by itself in any school studying 
foods. 

The French name, pomme de terre, 
apple of the earth, is a recognition of its 
good qualities. Yet people used and 
cultivated the apple in the old world 
long before they knew anything about 
potatoes, for the potato is a native of 
America. 

How can we arouse country children 
to real live interest in the potato, a 
perfectly familiar object, but associated 
with hard work in field and kitchen, and 
so common a food that it arouses no 
anticipation for a feast to come? 

Let the children look up the names of 
this earth-apple in other languages, and 
find all they can about it in encyclo- 
pedias or history, as a beginning. 

Spain appears to have been the first 
part of the old world to use potatoes, 
but those are supposed to have been the 
sweet potato. About 1588-9 white po- 
tatoes were introduced into Belgium and 
Holland, perhaps through Italy from 
Spain. Later they were introduced to 



statue was erected to his memory in a 
suburb of Paris, where he showed his 
countrymen that they might grow pota- 
toes. 

During the wars of the eighteenth 
century he was the chief health officer of 
the French army. Several times he was 
captured, and thus he noticed that 
potatoes were cultivated in Germany and 
learned their value and how to raise 
them. 

In 1771 the Institute of France 
awarded a prize to Parmentier's essay 
on the value of the potato. He also 
wrote a book, "The Complete Baker," 
telling how to use potato flour in bread- 
making, combined with rye or other 
grains. Louis XVI wore the potato 
blossom on one occasion and bade his 
courtiers eat potatoes. After that the 
despised plant grew popular. 

Now when we see a soup with Par- 
mentier's name we may readily guess it 
to be made of potato. 

A historian has thus recorded an 
American incident in which the sweet 
potato plays a part: 

"Gen. Marion was stationed on 
Show Island, South Carolina, when a 



Great Britain and Ireland, possibly by young officer of the British army visited 



wreck of a vessel. Several of the early 
navigators, like Sir John Hawkins, about 
1563; Sir Francis Drake, 1573; Sir 
Walter Raleigh, 1586, appear to have 
had a share in bringing potatoes to Great 
Britain. 

At Offenburg, Baden, a statue of Sir 
Francis Drake was erected, inscribed 
"To the Immortal Introducer of the 
Potato in Europe." 

In 1914 the centenary of the death of 
Antoine Parmentier was observed, and a 



him to treat respecting prisoners. He 
was led blindfolded to the camp of 
Marion. There he first saw the dimin- 
utive form of the great partisan leader, 
and around him, in groups, were his 
followers, lounging beneath magnificent 
trees draped with moss. When their 
business was concluded, Marion invited 
the young Briton to dine with him. He 
remained, and to his utter astonishment 
he saw some roasted potatoes brought 
forward on a piece of bark, of which the 



266 



THE POTATO 



267 



general partook freely, and invited his 
guest to do the same. 'Surely, general,' 
said the officer, 'this cannot be your 
ordinary fare?' 'Indeed, it is,' replied 
Marion, 'and we are fortunate on this 
occasion, entertaining company, to have 

I more than our usual allowance.' It is 
related that the young officer gave up 
his commission on his return, declaring 
that such a people could not, and ought 
not, to be subdued." 

The relatives of the potato also might 
have a place in this lesson. Some pupils 
may have noticed the similarity of the 
leaves and blossoms of the potato and 
those of the tomato. There is a marked 

J difference, however, between the green 
potato balls and the big attractive 
tomatoes. Surely a plant bearing such 
fine fruit may be excused, if it does not 
produce more food under ground, as the 
potato does. The eggplant is another 
relative. 

This, also, would be a suitable time to 
tell about canning clubs, if they have not 
been introduced in the vicinity, and 
several Farmers' Bulletins give much 
interesting data about them. 

The method of cultivating the potato, 
perhaps, is too old a story to demand 
much attention at this time, but the 
figures of local record crops per acre may 
be put on the blackboard and the ap- 
proximate amount used in the country, 
and anything that will emphasize the im- 
portance of the crops. 

Facts of this sort and much more of 
interest will be found in Farmers' Bulle- 
tin No. 295, "Potatoes and Other Root 
Crops as Food," by C. F. Langworthy. 

Any school ready to give time to some 
study of foods is justified in asking for 
these helpful bulletins from the con- 
gressman of the district. Sometimes 
several copies of each number may be 
secured, and used for supplementary 
reading lessons. 

Baked potatoes are possible with little 
more in the way of utensils than the 
usual country schoolhouse affords. Each 
pupil can provide one or two potatoes, 



and here, as with the apples, is an op- 
portunity for an observation lesson, the 
correct naming of varieties, the selec- 
tion of those most desirable for food, and 
the sorting for different methods of 
cooking. 

Thus the most perfect ones of medium 
size for baking, the largest ones for 
steaming, the imperfect to be pared be- 
fore cooking, etc., etc. 

The pocket knives of the boys will 
serve to trim and scrape those potatoes 
that need it, and the school water supply 
is ample to remove the earth. 

A wood heater in the schoolroom, 
probably, will afford some opportunity 
to bake part of the potatoes in the ashes. 
By frequent turning the same result may 
be reached on top of the stove. More 
even cooking will be secured, if it is 
possible to have an asbestos mat on top 
of the stove on which to put the potatoes 
and then cover them with a worn-out 
tin pan, too far gone to be harmed by 
such treatment. Sometimes a few nails 
or pieces of wire under the potatoes will 
serve to raise them from the hot surface 
of the stove enough to prevent burning, 
if an asbestos mat is not available. 
Part white and part sweet potatoes may 
be used. Meantime there may be a dis- 
cussion of over baking; best position in 
the oven; how long time required; how 
to know when the potato is done; how 
to keep it in good condition if cooked too 
soon; what to eat with it and why. 

A grater may be used to show some- 
thing of the composition of the potato. 
A pared potato should be grated into a 
piece of cheesecloth a foot square, 
spread over a deep saucer. Gather the 
corners of the cloth together and press 
out the watery juice. This may be 
turned into a tumbler, and shortly a line 
of white, solid material will settle. 
Note the proportion of water, two- 
thirds to three-fourths of the bulk of 
the potato in all, since more water re- 
mains in the cloth and its contents. 

Next water may be added to wash more 
of the white substance out of the grated 



268 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



potato, and this may be combined with 
that which was in the juice. While all 
is settling, notice the fibrous particles in 
which the grater divided the potato. 
It is this substance that will be softened 
or separated by cooking, and thus made 
more palatable and digestible. 

Next pour off all water and mix the 
mass of white material with hot water in a 
dipper or saucepan, and let it cook on the 
stove a minute or two until it thickens. 

Who can tell, from its resemblance to 
anything seen at home, what this may be? 
Some one will recognize starch. If it is 
possible to have several pupils extract 
starch, part of it may be dried. Note the 
white powder left on knives, etc., as 
water evaporates after cutting potatoes. 

Meantime some slices of potato should 
be examined, holding between the eye 
and the light, to show the difference in 
texture in different parts of the potato. 

Cut potatoes or slices may be exposed 
to the air to show discoloration. A few 
potatoes may be left to sprout; weigh 
them first, and again after the sprouts are 
removed. 

If it is desired to serve a hot potato 
luncheon more than one day, the baked 
potatoes may come one day, and a 
potato stew or chowder at another time. 

Potato Chowder 

Pare potatoes, cut in thick slices or 
half-inch cubes. Cover with cold water, 
while getting other things ready. Cut a 
piece of fat salt pork in thin slices and 
cook crisp in the bottom of a kettle, 
then take out the pork, leaving the clear 
fat Into this slice some onion, put the 
potato on top, and barely cover with 
water. When the potatoes are nearly 
soft, in ten to fifteen minutes, add the 
same measure of good milk as of the 
potatoes. Let this get hot and season 
with salt, pepper and butter, and serve at 
once with crackers. 

No definite quantities are given for 
this dish, purposely. Let the young cooks 
make their own recipe, learn" to use what 
they have, and "season to taste." Then, 



afterward, a recipe based on experience 
may be written on the blackboard, and 
variation suggested. Other vegetables, 
like parsnips or sweet corn, could be used 
in the same way. 

Baked Potatoes 

Choose smooth, medium-sized potatoes, 
scrub well, bake in a hot oven thirty to 
forty-five minutes. When soft, crack the 
skin to let out part of the steam, and 
serve as soon as possible. 

Stuffed Potatoes 

Bake, cut off the ends, scoop out inside, 
mash, season highly, moisten with cream, 
fill the skins again, put back in the oven 
five minutes. Grated cheese or chopped 
meat or beaten egg may be added to the 
hot mashed potato before filling the 
skins. 

Potato Canoes 

When the potatoes are cut lengthwise, 
before stuffing, they may be made to look 
like little boats or canoes. 

For Boiling 

Wash and pare, if not perfect or if old. 
To prevent discoloring, cover with cold 
water until time to boil them. Then 
cover with boiling water, add salt, cook 
till soft twenty to thirty minutes, drain, 
and shake to let the steam escape, serve. 

Mashed Potatoes 

Put through the ricer, or mash in a hot 
pan. To each pint of potatoes add one 
tablespoonful of butter, a little salt, a 
speck of pepper, and from one-fourth to 
one-half cup of hot milk. 

Potato Salad 

One pint of hot potato cut in cubes or 
slices, mix with about one-half cup of salad 
dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves, garnish 
with beet pickles or hard-boiled eggs. 
Serve cold. 

Almost any other vegetable may be used 
in much the same way^for soups, salads, 
croquettes, etc. 



The Story of Coffee 

By Carl Holliday 

Dean of Toledo University 



N 



OW that alcoholic drinks are But these wise guardians of the faith 

under the ban, doubtless Ameri- struck a snag. The Sultan of Egypt had 



cans will consume more coffee 
than ever before, and there may even be 
a revival of the old-time coffee-houses. 
Three hundred and sixty-five years ago, 
this autumn, the first coffee-house in the 



become a "coffee-fiend," and when he 
called together another council of theo- 
logians, these gentlemen knew exactly 
what to do. They recommended coffee 
as a gift from Allah. And the people 



world was opened at Constantinople, gladly accepted Allah's gift; everybody 



and two hundred and seventy years 
ago the first English coffee-house sent 
forth its aroma at Oxford. And yet, 
in the brief space of three centuries, 
how the coffee-drinking habit has spread! 
The whole world drinks it now — 
enormous quantities of it. The year 
before the Great War, Germany, sup- 



wanted a cup. Thus it happened that 
some enterprising Turk opened the world's 
first coffee-house in Constantinople in 
the fall of 1554. 

Evidently, however, these resorts be- 
came entirely too popular, for the riff- 
raff of the town as well as the Four 
Hundred congregated in them, and loud 



posedly a land devoted to beer, drank, was the cry of the Mohammedan church- 
as merely an extra beverage, 412,000,000 men against the places. Late in the 
pounds of coffee; while France, which sixteenth century the theologians once 
every American soldier knows is the more demanded the extermination of the 
home of vin rouge, consumed in the coal- beverage, because the Koran condemned 
black form that a Frenchman loves, over the use of "coal"! This proves that the 
220,000,000 pounds. But the United Turks took theirs black. The Mufti 
States surpassed them all, as usual, by of Constantinople saw the logic of the 
gulping down, in true American fashion, theologians' argument, and closed every 



nearly 990,000,000 pounds. 

For, at least, a half-century, however, 
the habit had a struggle for existence. 
It seems that the custom of using the 
beverage had its origin in Abyssinia. 
About 1500 a Mufti of Aden, named 
Gemaledie, requested those fanatic 
churchmen of the East, the dervishes, to 
drink it in order that they might not 
relax in the long and weird ceremonies of 
their faith. The dervishes took to it like 
a cat to cream, and recommended the 
concoction so heartily and widely that, 
within a decade, the habit had spread to 
Mecca and Cairo. In fact, it grew so 
dangerously popular that in 1511 an 
assembly of Mohammedan theologians 
■condemned it on the ground that it led 



shop and hotel dispensing coffee. 

What happened ? The Mufti promptly 
lost his job, and his successor declared 
that coffee, if not roasted black, was 
certainly not coal, and, therefore, the 
drinking of coffee made from good brown 
berries was not contrary to the Koran. 
It reminds one of the modern argument 
as to whether "2.75 per cent" beer is 
beer and, therefore, illegal. 

Up the coast of Europe the rich odor 
of the coffee-pot crept, and the English 
sniffed it from afar and with relish. It 
was being served in London inns in 
Shakespeare's time, not in cups, but in 
shallow bowls; so that one long asked for 
a "dish" of coffee. Evidently the stu- 
dents at Oxford University needed some- 



to intoxication, and was, there'fore, con- thing to stimulate them in their studies; 
trary to the Koran. Concluded on page 302 

269 



270 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c 
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 

Statement of the Ownership, Management, etc, required by 
the Act of Congress of Aug. 24, 1012, of the 

AMERICAN COOKERY, published monthly 
except July and September, at Boston, Mass., 
for October 1, 1919. 

Publishers: 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

Business Managers: 

Bent. M. Hill and Robert B. Hill 

Owners: 

Benj. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, Robt. B. Hill 

Known bond or other security holders. None 

Sworn to and subscribed before me this 29th day of Septem- 
ber, 1919. 

(Seal) A. W. BLAKE, 

Notary Public 

Our Prayer 

Lord God above, we offer thanks to thee 

On this Thanksgiving Day for all the glad, 

Good things of life! If some are sad — 

Bless them, we pray, unstintingly. 

Protect us by thy might and make us see 

The Beacon Light of RIGHT at all times. Add 

Thou consistency and judgment clad 

With kindliness to all; this is our plea! 

Our hearts in unison are joined today 

In singing hymns of joyousness and praise 

That, 'neath the sky of turbulent dismay. 

Thy spirit struggles on through all the maze 

And bids us stem the tide. Bids us obey 

The dictates of our conscience constantly! 

— Caroline L. Sumner. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

IF housekeepers did but know it, they 
want American Cookery in their 
homes. It is the most interesting, the 
most reliable and helpful publication of 
its kind in print. It appeals directly to 
teachers, pupils of domestic science, and 
housekeepers, and to no one else. It has 
nothing to do with millinery, lingerie, or 
fashions, but deals exclusively with 
cookery and household economics. Its 
advertising pages are in perfect keeping 
and harmony with its text. Every page 
of this publication bears something on it 
of interest to housekeepers. 

The October number was regarded as 
exceptionally fine. This November num- 
ber is better, and the December number 
will be better still. In these times, do not 
overlook the significance and importance 
of American Cookery in the home; it 
is a friend, indeed, in time of need. 

OUR PRINCIPLES 

AMERICAN COOKERY stands for 
law, order, and justice first, last, 
and always. We say this because so 
many people, it seems, are manifestly 
not standing up boldly for law, order, and 
justice at all. Even our public press 
seems waiting to catch the popular cur- 
rent, in the course of events. If ever 
•there was a time when strikes were out of 
order, it is the present. What do the 
strikers of today want? The organizers 
and leaders of strikes are advocating the 
breaking of contracts, the violation of 
law, and the subversion of all government. 
Who is paying these professional organiz- 
ers for their malicious and seditious 
efforts? If our laws are unfair or unjust,, 
why do not the people see to it, through 
their chosen representatives in legislative- 
halls, that laws be enacted that are just 
and fair? We have a constitution to 
which we have sworn allegiance; but 
who is paying any heed to the constitu- 
tion in these days? W T e believe in the 
maintenance of our laws as they now 
stand on the statute books and in chang- 



EDITORIALS 



271 



ing the old order for a new only after 
mature thought and deliberation. Haste 
makes waste in more than one line of 
action. 

A POINT OF VIEW 

TO reduce the cost of living, the sine 
qua non to everybody's happiness, 
we began wrong. We began by granting 
an increase in wages to labor, the most 
unwise, imprudent step that possibly 
could have been taken. 

Obviously, in order to pay even inter- 
est on our indebtedness and other 
expenses, and at the same time resume 
anything like normal conditions of living, 
every man, woman, and child in the 
United States must sacrifice something, 
somehow. Who shall be exempt? As 
a beginning, in every occupation and 
industry a reduction in price of labor 
should be made from top to bottom of the 
list. The tax gatherers are looking 
pretty well after the top already. Right 
here, i. e., at the point of wages, must the 
reform begin. To advocate a rise in 
price of anything, anywhere, at this time, 
should be regarded as criminal. 

"First of all the American people should 
stop, look, and lessen its extravagance." 

GERMAN LABOR'S TEN-HOUR DAY 

FROM German workmen comes the 
demand for a longer day. Elsewhere 
in the world labor shortens the hours of 
toil and cripples production by strikes. 
Not unanimous is the cry in Germany for 
more labor and consequently more pro- 
duction, but the demand is backed by 
numbers large enough to give it real 
significance. German toilers are begin- 
ning to see that the way to prosperity 
lies along the hard path of serious work, 
that not more leisure but more labor is 
the world's great need. The world at 
large may well consider this token of the 
German workman's grip upon the present 
critical situation. Certainly the nation 
that first resumes hard and patient 
productive toil will gain a position of 
vast advantage in the coming struggle 



for trade and the prosperity that trade 
brings. — The Boston Herald. 

Certainly the German is shrewd; he 
has been, also, well trained and dis- 
ciplined. It is said the Germans know 
how to strike orderly. They destrov 
neither their own property nor that of 
others. We must look well to our ways 
or the Germans will come out of the late 
world-conflict right where they entered 
into it — ■ leaders in industrial and com- 
mercial enterprises. 

FALLACIES 

"► I ^HE world owes me a living." No 

A greater fallacy than this can be 
entertained. The world owes no man a 
living unless he has earned it and deserves 
it. In a sense, Nature is kind to man, 
but her laws are infallible and inexorable. 
Far truer than the foregoing sentiment 
is the old saying, "God helps him who 
helps himself." The only way out of the 
present condition of affairs is for people 
everywhere to settle down to steady 
occupation in every kind of productive 
industry. 

"People who continue to believe that 
there is a bag of gold at the end of the 
rainbow are largely responsible for 
industrial and social unrest in America 
and other countries," Secretary Lane 
declares. 

"These folks won't take the word of 
experienced men all down the road of 
history that there is no magical way to 
happiness. Work alone finds the way. 
Work is the salvation materially, and 
spiritually. 

"Our war morale has not been main- 
tained. We have not the unity of pur- 
pose that prevailed then. We lack a 
common purpose, we Americans, though 
we are just as loyal, just as idealistic. 

"We can adopt an aggressive, con- 
structive program for America. Let us 
all work to make this country a better 
place in which to live, not by selfish 
enterprise, but by co-operation. That 
is our ideal. Let us live up to it." 



272 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"KEEP ON KEEPING ON" 

A CERTAIN old state-of-Maine man, 
who used to be a deep-water sailor, 
but is now snug as the caretaker of a 
Boston property, is much prized by the 
manager of the establishment because of 
his sage remarks. Not long since, con- 
ditions forced the manager to curtail 
activities, but he kept his concern going. 
Thereupon the old sailor man slyly said: 
"I see, sir; you're jest givin' 'er steerage 
way. There's no headin' of 'er elsewise. 
She'd jest drift the devil's own way, if 
you didn't keep on keepin' on." 

This quaint philosophy is worthy of 
public inscription. For men, as for 
vessels, drifting is the sure result if one 
does not "keep on keeping on," even 
when conditions are such that it is not 
possible to make much headway. And 
drifting, as the veteran seaman well 
knew, is the way to danger sooner or 
later. What business man of experience 
doesn't understand this? 

Many a man and woman has occasion 
in the present strained conditions of 
common life to feel like giving up at times. 
Business men are often near their wit's 
end because of the rampant uncertainties 
encountered in purchase and sale and 
employed service. Home-making women 
are vexed and well-nigh baffled by the 
cost of necessary supplies, worn out by 
the scarcity of household help and the 
almost prohibitive wages demanded, ex- 
asperated by the incompetence or high- 
headedness of the help they obtain. 
Salaried people, with everything going 
up but their earnings, often feel as if they 
faced a blank wall which needs no let- 
tered "Stop" to interpret its meaning 
for them. Perplexity, disheartenment, 
weakening of purpose and effort, despair- 
ing action of one sort or another — ■ these 
are the steps of descent to the inferno of 
giving up, which not a few are tempted to 
tread, in days like these. 

To rally yourself against the folly of 
yielding, make "keep on keeping on" 
your instant and constant watchword. 



That simplifies and makes distinct the 
first essential for being ready to seize the 
chance in any turn for the better when it 
comes — and it will come sooner or later. 
Next, banish bitterness; keep sweet; 
spurn self-pity. How? An eminent 
public man tells this story. A poor and 
hard-pressed woman, known to him, 
happened to get hold of a certain famous 
book and said of it: "I read that book, 
and I saw there was something going on 
of which I was a little part, and it has 
taken all the kick out of me." 

Protest and resistance have their 
rightful place, of course, when things are 
going wrong. But the kicking mood is 
hard on one's vitality. Settled embitter- 
ing is like short-circuiting — it may make 
quite a show of energy, but will soon run 
down the battery and leave the motor 
"dead." To see somehow that there is 
something going on that is larger than 
yourself or your immediate advantage — 
as there is undoubtedly, in the present 
turmoil of everyday affairs — to realize 
that you are but sharing what almost 
everybody is undergoing, to feel that 
you may be a part of "the host that heeds 
not hurt nor scar" which will win out in 
the present struggle — ■ this will go far 
toward "taking the kick out of you," 
and sparing you much waste of your 
powers. 

"The world is wide, 
Both time and tide, 
And God is guide — 

Then do not hurry. 
That man is blest, 
Who does his best, 
And leaves the rest — 
Then do not worry." 
— The Religious Editor in Boston Herald- 



To save money by going without neces- 
sities is bad economy, but to waste any- 
thing lessens your wealth, the wealth 
of your country, and the wealth of the 
world. 



Thrift is steady earning, wise spend- 
ing, sane saving, careful investing, and 
the avoidance of all waste. 





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TURKEY READY FOR THE OVEN 

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour 

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour. 



Roasting Poultry and Birds 

WHEN poultry, birds, etc., have 
been cleaned and trussed ready 
for cooking, cover the breast 
with thin slices of salt pork, or bacon, 
scored lightly; fasten these in place with 
skewers or strings and set on a rack in a 
baking pan, a little larger than the object. 
The rack should be smaller than the 
pan, to admit of free use of a spoon in 
basting. The "heat indicator" should 
point to the center of the dial. If neces- 
sary to avoid burning, let the pan rest on 
a grate. Turn the object often that it 
may be seared over uniformly. It will 
take' from fifteen to thirty minutes to 
sear over a turkey, and other objects ac- 
cordingly. When this is accomplished, 
close damper, add a little hot water and 
dripping to the pan, and reduce the 
temperature as soon as possible to that 



of ordinary baking. Baste every ten 
minutes, dredging with flour after each 
basting. When the joints separate easily, 
the cooking is completed. (It will take 
three hours to roast a ten-pound turkey.) 
Just before this condition is reached, 
remove the pork from the breast, baste 
with a little butter melted in hot water, 
and return to the oven for the final 
browning; baste several times, or until 
the desired color is attained. For best 
results, use no hot water, in basting; 
use fat only. 

Bread Stuffing for Chickens and 
Turkeys 

2 cups soft bread 

crumbs 
\ cup butter, melted 
\ teaspoonful salt 
\ teaspoonful pepper 

Mix the ingredients together thor- 
oughly. The bread should be twenty- 



\ teaspoonful pow- 
dered sweet herbs or 
spiced poultry sea- 
soning 

1 beaten egg 



273 



274 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



four hours old and taken from the center 
of the loaf. Exact quantities of season- 
ing are given, but this is a matter of 
individual taste. At least twice the 
amount of ingredients given in the recipe 
will be needed for a nine or ten pound 
turkey. The egg may be omitted, if the 
dressing is to be eaten hot; a cold dressing 
will slice better, if the egg be used. 
Cracker crumbs give a drier stuffing. 

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin 

Select medium-sized tenderloins. Wipe 
with a soft cloth dipped in weak salt and 
water. Split the meat lengthwise, mak- 
ing a slight incision w T ith a sharp knife, 



a moderate oven about three-quarters of 
an hoar. If the family is larger, make 
the layers of whole tenderloins, split as 
directed. It is very convenient to pare 
potatoes and split lengthwise, placing 
them in the pan with the meat. 

Pork Tenderloin, French Style 

Wipe the tenderloin carefully, and, 
with a sharp knife, cut into slices about 
an inch thick across the tenderloin. 
Shape the thin pointed ends into rounds, 
also. Pound each slice lightly to flatten 
it. Season with salt and pepper and 
roll well in flour. Have readv lard or 
other fat, and when just ready to smoke, 




PORK TENDERLOIN WITH ONIONS 



and then pulling the muscle apart until 
almost split in two. If the family is a 
small one, cut the split tenderloin straight 
across the center and place one-half, split 
side up, on a buttered baking tin. 
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cover 
with several layers of onion sliced thin. 
Season the onion and cover with cracker, 
broken into rather fine pieces. On top of 
this place the second piece of tenderloin. 
Season as before, and cover with a thick 
layer of onion. Season and cover with 
cracker crumbs, using a little more than 
before. Drop water very carefully on 
this layer in order to moisten the crumbs 
thoroughly without displacing them. 
Drop a few pieces of butter on top and 
pour a cup of water in the pan. Bake in 



drop in the meat. Turn it almost at 
once in order to form a slight crust on 
both sides. Lower the temperature and 
continue cooking slowly twenty minutes. 
Pour off the fat, except about two table- 
spoonfuls, and drop into the pan three 
tablespoonfuls of flour with a pinch of 
salt. Lift the meat to a hot dish and 
stir the flour and fat well. As soon as the 
flour is a golden brown, add milk and 
stir vigorously to keep the gravy smooth. 
Keep adding milk until the gravy is a 
trifle thin. Cook till reduced enough and 
then pour around the meat. 

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin 

Split the tenderloin as directed for 
Scalloped Tenderloin. Make a dressing 



SEASOXABLE-AXD-TESTED RECIPES 



275 




MACARONI-AND-CHICKEN PUDDING 



of dry bread, chopped rather fine, and 
seasoned with salt, pepper and other 
seasoning liked. A tiny pinch of mar- 
jorum and summer savory with a few 
drops of onion juice, will give zest to the 
dressing. Pour water on the bread very 
carefully, in order to moisten it very 
slightly. The juice of the meat will 
make the dressing just right, if it is not 
made wet with the water. Some cooks 
pour water on the bread and then squeeze 
it as dry as possible, but even this may 
make the bread too wet. Spread the 
dressing on the split side of the meat, 
remembering that it swells in cooking. 
Arrange it in even thickness the entire 
length. Place a second tenderloin, split 
side down, directly over the dressing. 
Sew the edges together with coarse 
thread. Place in a buttered pan with a 
cup of warm water and bake in a moder- 



ate oven about three-quarters of an hour, 
lowering the heat after the first twenty 
minutes. Put a few bits of butter in 
the pan, also salt and pepper and baste 
frequently. If only one tenderloin be 
used, fold the split edges together and 
fasten. 

Broiled Pork Tenderloin 

Split the tenderloin in two and broil 
under a flame that is hot at first to sear 
the surface and preserve the juice. Re- 
duce the heat and when the meat is quite 
puffed, and nicely browned, remove to a 
hot dish, season with pepper and salt and 
bits of butter. All pork should be well 
done, but too long cooking is almost as 
bad as undercooking, for it dries the meat 
and destroys its delicate flavor. After 
searing, the cooking should be at a gentle, 
moderate heat. 




FILET OF BEEF WITH FRIED BANANAS 



276 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Roast Venison, Virginia Style 

Let the haunch hang for a week in a cold 
place. The day before it is to be- used 
wash in warm vinegar and water, and then 
rub with butter to soften the skin. 
Cover the top and sides with well- 
greased paper and over this put a half- 
inch layer of flour and water mixed to a 
paste. Over this put another layer of 
greased paper. The next day put into 
the roasting pan, allowing three hours for 
cooking a twelve-pound roast. Put one 
pint of water in the pan and cover close 
with another pan. The oven should be 
hot. At the end of an hour baste well. 
Half an hour before serving time remove 
the papers and baste thoroughly with a cup 
of cider and a spoonful of melted butter. 
Dredge with flour and return to the oven. 



ter after measuring, and toss the crumbs 
in, stirring until all have taken up some 
of the butter. Blanch one-fourth a 
pound of sweet almonds, weighed after 
the shells are removed. Chop rather 
fine and then pound to a paste, adding 
white of egg as needed to keep the paste 
from becoming oily. Beat the yolks of 
three eggs well; add half a cup of cream. 
Beat again and add a pinch of nutmeg, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, the bread 
crumbs, alternating with the almonds. 
Beat the whites of eggs till stiff and fold 
into the mixture. Do not press too 
close when stuffing the fowl. Any dress- 
ing left over may be shaped into a little 
loaf and baked in the pan with the roast. 

Macaroni-and-Chicken Pudding 

Break the sticks of macaroni in a half- 















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NUTTED CREAM 



Repeat the basting four times. The 
oven should be hot enough to brown the 
meat nicely. Remove to a hot dish and 
put in a warming oven. Remove the 
fat from the gravy, and set the pan on top 
of the stove; add a tablespoonful of 
flour and stir till well browned. Add a 
glass of cider, half a teaspoonful of salt 
and a sprinkle of pepper. Stir well, 
add half a small glass of currant jelly, 
and when melted strain into a gravy boat. 

Almond Stuffing for Turkey or 
Chicken 

Use only the white crumbs well dried. 
For three-fourths a pound allow six 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Melt the but- 



pound package into thirds. Put into 
boiling, salted water and keep boiling for 
half an hour or longer, if the sticks were 
very dry. Chop one-half pound of best 
boned chicken into fine bits; add two 
ounces of blanched almonds, chopped fine, 
one-fourth pound of moderately sharp 
cheese, grated or diced very fine. Mix all 
together. Beat two eggs till light; add two 
tablespoonfuls of cream or chicken broth, 
one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and a very 
small pinch of nutmeg. Add this to the 
macaroni mixture. Have ready a mold 
perfectly smooth inside and free from 
fancy indentations. Butter the inside 
generously and fill with the pudding 
mixture to about three-fourths of the 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



277 



capacity of the mold. Butter the cover 
and put in place. Put the mold in 
boiling water or in a steamer and keep 
the water boiling for two hours. Remove 
the cover to the mold, invert the dish 
from which the pudding is to be served, 
place it over the mold, hold the two 
firmly together, invert the dish and 
let remain for a few moments before lifting 
the mold. Have ready a delicately 
flavored tomato sauce and pour this 
around, not over, the pudding. This 
dish is easily within the possibilities of 
kitchenette housekeeping, and the tomato 
sauce can be evolved very easily from a 
can of excellent tomato soup. 

Cranberry Sauce 

Wash the berries and remove all stems, 
leaves and imperfect berries. By using 
a deep saucepan rather than a shallow 
one it will not be necessary to use so 
much water to start the cooking, and the 
less water one uses the better will be the 
sauce. As a rule there should be about 
one-eighth as much water, by measure, 
as berries. For a quart of berries put a 
scant half-cup of water into the pan, add 
the berries and as soon as they begin to 
soften, add one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
baking soda. Stir well and remove all 
the froth that rises to the top. Continue 
cooking until the berries are thoroughly 
softened. Press through a sieve and 
throw away the thick skins that will not 
pass through. Return the pulp to the 
clean pan, add two cups of sugar, cook 
till the sugar is melted and turn into the 
dish from which the sauce is to be served. 
When cool, cover to prevent the forma- 
tion of a thick skin. 

Nutted Cream 

Soak a quarter box of gelatine in one- 
half cup of cold water until softened. 
Whip stiff three cups of heavy cream 
in a bowl standing in a pan of ice-water, 
and mix into this one-third cup of 
chopped nuts, three-quarters of a cup of 
powdered sugar, and one teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Add to the hydrated gelatine 




BREAKFAST PUFFBALLS 

one-fourth cup of hot water, and dissolve 
by standing in a bowl of hot water. 
Pour the dissolved gelatine over the 
cream, and stir until the whole is well 
mixed and the mixture has begun to 
thicken slightly. Pour into a mold; turn 
out when ready to serve, and sprinkle 
all over with chopped nuts. 

Breakfast Puffballs 

Sift with one pint of flour two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder and one 
teaspoonful of salt, also one-half grated 
nutmeg. Add one-half cup of sugar, one 
cup of milk, and two eggs, unbeaten. 
Beat all together until very light, and 
drop, a tablespoonful at a time, into deep 
fat. For the best results, the batter 
should be stiff enough to hold a spoon 
upright, and enough flour should be 
added until this result has been gained. 
The puffs should be eaten warm for 
breakfast. 

Brazilian Salad 

2 cups boiled Lima beans 

1 cup raw celery 

1 cup raw sweet green peppers 




BRAZILIAN SALAD 



278 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cut celery and peppers in strips the 
size of small matches. Mix vegetables 
with French dressing. Sprinkle with 
chopped parsley. Peanut oil substituted 
for olive oil in the French dressing gives 
an agreeable flavor. 

Cranberry Jelly 

The addition of a little softened gelatine 
to the sauce just as the sugar is added, and 
heating until the gelatine is dissolved, will 
give a very pretty mold of cranberry 
jelly. If one happens to have pretty 
individual molds, holding about half a 
cup, the jelly can be unmolded, just 



Creamed Artichokes 

Pare Jerusalem artichokes, cut into 
even-sized pieces, and throw into water, to 
which has been added a little vinegar or 
lemon juice. Have ready boiling, salted 
water and cook the artichokes in this 
till tender, allowing the same time as for 
potatoes. Make a delicate white sauce 
and in this place the drained vegetables. 

Browned Chestnuts 

Use large Italian chestnuts. With a 
sharp knife make two incisions at right 
angles to each other through the shell 
on one side of each nut. Cover with 




MATERIALS FOR HARLEQUIN JELLY 



before dinner is announced, and the 
serving question will be simplified at the 
same time that dainty service is secured. 
Prettiest of all is a mold in which a 
generous portion of MacLaren's Imperial 
Jelly Powder is used. If one takes the 
trouble to do double molding, a very 
handsome effect can be attained by using 
the cranberry jelly as the center with a 
thin coating of the gelatine. In that 
case, of course, the gelatine mixture would 
not be heated with the berries, but kept 
in a separate vessel. If double molding 
be not attempted, the jelly powder may 
be dropped into the hot sauce, allowing 
the proper amount of liquid. 



boiling water and let cook for half an 
hour. Drain and keep hot while re- 
moving the shell and thin skin from each 
nut. Put into hot fat and saute till 
nicely browned. Turn often. Drain on 
soft paper and sprinkle lightly with salt. 



Harl 



equin 



Jelly 



4 quarts Baldwin apples 
1 quart cranberries 
4 quinces 

Remove stem and blossom ends of 
quinces and apples and cut in quarters. 
Put in a preserving kettle with cran- 
berries. Add cold water to come nearly 
to top of fruit. Cook slowly until soft. 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



279 



Drain through a jelly bag. Boil juice 
twenty minutes; add equal quantity of 
heated sugar; boil until a little jellies on a 
cold plate (this will occur quickly). 
Store in glasses. 

Coffee Rolls 



1 cup scalded-and- 
cooled milk 

2 yeast cakes 

i cup softened butter 



5 cup sugar 

f cup eggs 

4-| cups bread flour 

1 teaspoonful salt 



Put all together in a bowl and mix 
thoroughly ten minutes. Cover, set aside 
in a warm place for six hours. Set in 
ice-box until next day. Roll out in a 
sheet one-fourth an inch thick, spread 
thin with creamed butter, and fold 
from side toward middle to make three 
layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths an 
inch wide, cover and let rise. (This 
recipe should make twenty-four of these 
pieces); when light, twist ends in opposite 
directions, coil and bring ends together. 
When light bake twenty minutes in a 
moderate oven. Frost with confec- 
tioner's frosting. 

Italian Cake 

Beat three ounces of butter and three 
of sugar together until well creamed; add 
one-half teaspoonful of any desired flavor- 
ing extract, then add three eggs, un- 
beaten, one at a time, beating in each 
one before adding the next. Continue 
beating after the last tgg has been added 
until the mixture is perfectly smooth and 
free from grain. Lastly, stir in very 




COFFEE ROLLS 

lightly three ounces of pastry flour, 
sifted twice. Bake in a loaf cake pan in 
a moderate oven for forty minutes. 
The very fine flavor of this cake de- 
pends on correct manipulation. 

Rich Rice Pudding 

Thoroughly wash half a cup of rice, soak 
over night in slightly salted water; drain, 
add one cup of milk, and cook, closely 
covered, in a moderate oven. Add to 
one pint of cream the yolks of four 
eggs, well beaten with half a cup of sugar, 
and stir into the cooked rice. Let bake, 
still covered, until custard is set, then 
make a meringue of the whites of the 
eggs, pile it on top, and brown slightly. 

Almond Sponge Cake 

Blanch and pound in a mortar one 
ounce of sweet and one ounce of 
bitter almonds. This should be done by 
pounding the nuts one or two at a time, 
adding a few drops of water or a small 




ALMOND SPONGE CAKE 



280 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




5 apples 

| cup sugar 

^ teaspoonful nutmeg 



APPLE ROLL 

bit of white of egg to prevent the nuts 
from "boiling." They should be a 
smooth paste. Beat this into the yolks 
of five eggs, alternately, with one cup of 
powdered sugar. Then add one cup of 
flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder. Lastly, beat in the 
stiff-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake 
as for angel cake. 

Raised Potato Cakes 

Mix one pint of mashed potatoes with 
one pint of flour, sifted with one-half 
teaspoonful of salt. Add milk enough 
to make a batter thick enough for 
griddle cakes, and two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter. Blend one-half yeast 
cake with two tablespoonfuls of water 
and one-quarter teaspoonful of baking 



soda, and beat into batter. Let rise 
until light and full of bubbles, then bake 
in greased muffin rings. 

This is good to serve with roast lamb, 
game, or fricasseed chicken. The cakes 
should be taken from the tins and dropped 
into gravy before sending to table. 

Apple Roll 

1| cups flour 

f cup lard 

1 teaspoonful salt 

2 tablespoonfuls butter 

Mix first three ingredients; add water 
to make paste of right consistency to 
roll. Set in ice-box for twenty-four 
hours. Roll into a sheet one-eighth an 
inch thick; dot with butter, and spread 
with apples, sugar and nutmeg. Roll 
like a jelly-roll and bake. To serve, 
slice across and add pudding sauce. 

Quick Puff Paste 

Sift, twice, one quart of flour, two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, and one 
teaspoonful of salt. Rub into this one 
cup of lard until quite smooth. Mix one 
beaten egg-white with one-half cup of ice 
water, and add to flour mixture to make 
a very stiff dough. Roll thin, and spread 
with one-fourth a cup of softened butter. 
Sprinkle with a little flour, roll up like a 




A THANKSGIVING DINNER TABLE, CENTERPIECE OF FRUIT 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



281 



jelly-roll, double the ends towards the 
center, flatten, and roll thin again. 
Spread as before with one-quarter cup of 
softened butter, and repeat the rolling, 
etc., until one cup of butter has been 
used. Roll, finally, to one-half inch thick, 
and set in cool place for an hour. 

This paste is easy to make, since it can 
be rolled in any direction. It is so crisp 
and flaky that it will fly to pieces if not 
carefully cut after baking. 

Chicken Filets with Almond Sauce 

Sprinkle two chicken filets with salt, 
a little pepper, and a trace of cayenne. 
Dip in olive oil, and cook in a hot pan 
until delicately brown. Add to pan one 
cup of equal parts of cream and white 
stock. When hot, thicken with two 
tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a paste, 
with an equal quantity of cream or olive 
oil. Stir until sauce boils, then add one- 
half cup of thin-sliced almonds. 

Sweetbreads with Orange Sauce 

Cover the sweetbreads with ice water, 
acidulated with a tablespoonful of vine- 
gar, and let stand one hour. Parboil 
for twenty minutes. Cut in cubes or 
slices and brown in buttered pan. Serve 
with the following sauce: One cup of 
brown stock, thickened with two table- 
spoonfuls of flour stirred into two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter. Add to 
this one-half tablespoonful of very fine- 
cut yellow rind of orange, one tablespoon- 
ful of orange juice, one tablespoonful of 
orange marmalade. Let all boil to- 
gether, and pour over sweetbreads. 

Deviled Tomatoes 

Cut into thick slices from four to six 
tomatoes, dredge with flour, and saute on 
pan in hot butter. Serve with one 
tablespoonful of the following mixture 
on each: Cream together one table- 
spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 
powdered sugar, two of dry mustard, and 



a dash of salt, a sprinkle of cayenne, and 
the hard-boiled yolk of one egg. Add to 
this mixture two tablespoonfuls, each, of 
chopped green pepper, of fine-chopped 
parsley, and of scraped onion. Moisten 
with a tablespoonful or less of vinegar, 
slightly warm in the pan, and serve on the 
tomatoes. The sauce should be rather 
thick and stiff. 

String Beans, French Style 

Use either canned or fresh beans. If 
the canned are used, heat thoroughly and 
drain very dry. Melt a tablespoonful 
of sweet lard and add a half a clove of 
garlic cut into as thin slices as possible. 
Cook, without browning, five minutes, 
and then remove frcm the fat. Add a 
heaping tablespoonful of parsley, minced 
very fine. Turn the beans into the fat 
and stir well, mixing thoroughly with 
the fat and parsley. 

Currant Jelly Sauce for Game 

Slice one onion, and cook in three 
tablespoonfuls of butter until just brown. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one 
bay leaf, and a sprig of celery, and stir 
until smooth. Add one pint of good 
stock, simmer twenty minutes, strain, 
skim off fat, add one-half cup of currant 
jelly and stir over fire until melted. 

Olive Sauce 

Cook two dozen large Queen olives in 
hot water for thirty minutes, pare and 
chop. Into a saucepan put four table- 
spoonfuls of butter; add four tablespoon- 
fuls of fine-minced onion, and cook 
until brown. Add four tablespoonfuls of 
flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a 
dash of pepper, stir together to a paste, 
and add one and one-half cups of brown 
stock. Cook, stirring constantly until 
the mixture boils, then stir into it the 
chopped olives, and serve. 

This is a delicious sauce for fish, game, 
cold meat, etc. 




Menus for Week in November 



X 

< 

Q 

Z 

& 

CO 



Breakfast 

Puffed Wheat, Top of Milk 

French Omelette 

Buttered Toast Marmalade 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Venison, Virginia Style 

Sweet Pickled Prunes Currant Jelly 

Baked Potatoes 

Cauliflower with Melted Butter 

Celery-and-Almond Salad 

Apple Pie 

Coffee 



Supper 



Rolled Oats Bread 
Trifle 



Tunny Fish Salad 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Orange Juice 

Scrambled Eggs 

Rye Meal Biscuits 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Pommes a l'Otero 

Toasted Cheese Crackers 

Piccalilli 

Tea Ring, Carrot Marmalade 

Tea 

Dinner 

Consomme 

Roast Lamb, Brown Gravy 

Spiced Grape Jelly 

Boiled Hominy (Samp) 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Canned Strawberries 

Sugar Cookies 

Coffee 



< 

C 

5 



Breakfast 

Baked Apples, Cream 

Broiled Ham 

Eggs in Shell 

Hot Rolls (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Rich Vegetable Soup 

Bread Sticks 

Hot Gingerbread 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Salsify Soup 

Planked Steak 

Boiled Onions Carrots Cauliflower 

Browned Chestnuts 

Canned Pears Sponge Cake Coffee 



Breakfast 

Grapefruit 

Pan-broiled Oysters on Toast 

Griddle Cakes, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Minced Lamb on Toast 

Poached Egg 

Peach Shortcake 

Tea 

4 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup 

Chicken en Casserole 

Stewed Corn with Green Peppers 

Celery Ripe Olives 

Cafe Parfait 

Coffee 






Breakfast 

Philadelphia Scrapple 

Fried Apples 

Crusty Rolls 
Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Scalloped Oysters 

Baked Potatoes 

Sour Pickles 

Parker House Rolls 

Peanut Cookies 

Tea 

Dinner 

Clear Tomato Soup 

Beef Filet with Vegetables 

Endive Salad 

One-Two-Three Dessert 

Coffee 



Puffed Rice, Top of Milk 

Stewed Apricots 

Kippered Herring, heated 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cream of Parsnip Soup 

Spinach on Toast 

Egg Salad 

Junket with Strawberry Preserve 

Tea 

Dinner 

Fresh Codfish with Oyster Dressing 

Curried -Rice 

Scalloped Eggplant 

Celery Sour Pickles 

Lemon Meringue Tarts 

Coffee 



< 
O 

< 



Breakfast 

Sausage 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

Apple Sauce 



Luncheon 

Cream of Potato-and- 

Chicken Soup 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Buttered Toast 

Peach Whip 

Tea 

282 



Dinner 

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin 

Creamed Artichokes 

Kumquat-and-Grapefruit Salad 

Lemon Sherbet 

Sponge Cake 

Coffee 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinner without Turkey 



i 

Grapefruit Cocktail 

Pork Tenderloin, Spiced Grape Jelly 

Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Creamed Jerusalem Artichokes 

Brussels Sprouts, Glazed in Butter 

Ripe Olives Spiced Crabs Piccalilli 

Celery Glace Tomato Salad 

Pumpkin Pie Doughnuts 

Raisin Pie Apples, Nuts 

Sweet Cider Coffee 



II 

Oysters on the Half Shell 

Cream of Rice Soup Cheese Puffs 

Roast Chicken, Dressing 

Currant Jelly 

Browned Chestnuts 



Asparagus, Mousseline Sauce 
Braised Endive 
Sweet Peach Pickles Olives 

Curled Celery Salted Almonds 

Pineapple-and-Marshmallow Salad 
Squash Pie Nesselrode Pudding 

Sweet Cider Coffee 

III 

(Kitchenette Housekeeping) 

Oyster Cocktail 

Cream of Clam Soup 

Macaroni-and-Chicken Pudding, Tomato Sauce 

String Beans, French Style 

Celery Homemade Relishes 

Olives Salted Almonds 

Pumpkin Pie 
Apples Nuts Raisins 

Grape Juice Coffee 



Menu for New England Thanksgiving Dinner 

Oyster Cocktail or Grapefruit 

Consomme 

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce 
Mashed Potato 

Mashed Turnips 

Boiled Onions 

Creamed Cauliflower 



Olives 



Celery Salted Almonds 

Homemade Relishes 



Pineapple Sherbet 

Pumpkin Pie Mince Pie 

Apples Raisins Nuts 

Sweet Cider Coffee 



283 



Putting Thanks into the Thanksgiving Dinner 

By Wealtha A. Wilson 

BY common consent every one seems peoples of the earth. And, although it 

to devote himself a willing sacri- seems that the vacant chair is the saddest 

fice to overeating on Thanks- of all things at a feast, this is the time 

giving Day. And it must be said that when the vacant chair should preach the 

abstemiousness throughout the rest of art of rejoicing in the highest and finest 

the year, on the part of most people, and kind of sacrifice, if that chair be vacant 



the spirit in which Thanksgiving fare 
is eaten does much to protect those who 
sin, dietetically. There are many who 



because its former occupant rose to the 
heights of patriotism and gave his all for 
righteousness. A whole lifetime is not 



find untold comfort in eating the tra- long enough for returning thanks that 
ditional dinner planned long ago when such a life was linked with our own, and 
Thanksgiving began. This menu was we were honored with that companion- 
probably overbalanced, from the view- ship. These thoughts should settle em- 



point of the dietitians of today, but its 
faults were fully neutralized and the 
whole was given a beautiful stability by 
the exuberant thankfulness, which made 
a religious rite of the dinner. It was a 
pure case of the efficacy of joy and 
tranquillity and gratitude as a promoter 



phatically the troublesome question as to 
what one shall provide for the Thanks- 
giving dinner. It should be a little 
better than usual. 

See to it that the dinner be a joyous one 
for everybody. But plan so that no one 
shall bear an unjust burden because ofi 



of digestibility. Many, to whom tra- elaborate preparations that are beyond 



dition is something which must not be 
slighted, will always insist on the tra- 
ditional Thanksgiving dinner. If the 
company be a merry one and large and 
meet in the true spirit, the risk to one's 
stomach is slight. 

Of all the years since the first Thanks- 
giving, we in America have, probably, 



the capabilities of the one in charge. 
See to it that extravagance be ruled out 
completely. Extravagance is always ini 
bad taste, no matter how large and steady 
may be one's bank account. An ex- 
travagant meal is rarely satisfactory. 
Keep the menu down to the size of th< 
party that is being entertained. Above 



more cause for thankfulness this year everything else consider the culinary staff. 



than A ever before. All our past blessings 
as a nation should be recalled, and 
likewise all the blessings brought to us 
by this war. Our lines have, indeed, 
fallen in pleasant places — how pleasant 
we would never have realized, even 
slightly, had we taken no part in the 
sacrifice suffered by the majority* of the 



If, as is the case in many homes today 
there be no maid, consider that fact first 
in planning the cooking, and next for the 
serving. Prepare as much as possible 
the day before, or even two days before 
If the weather is cold, the turkey can be 
dressed ready for stuffing two days be 
fore Thanksgiving Day. The dressing 



284 






PUTTING THANKS INTO THE THANKSGIVING DINNER 



285 



can be made ready for the last minute's 
putting together one or two days before 
the^day. The cranberry sauce can be 
made ready and sealed weeks before. 
If it is to be molded, a jar of the sauce can 
be opened, reheated, and poured into 
molds for serving. Gelatine, if used, 
should be added at the reheating. The 
pumpkin for the pies can be ready for 
several days before it is needed, being 
sealed while hot and kept in a cold place. 
The custard can be mixed and the pies 
baked the day before Thanksgiving. 
If nuts are needed for the salad, they can 
be prepared days before. Almonds 
should be browned and salted the day 
before. After the turkey is in the oven, 
it will be a slight task to prepare the 
vegetables, but one should work a little 
ahead of the usual schedule on Thanks- 
giving morning, for there are sure to be 
interruptions. Turnip should be cooked 
the day before and reheated and served on 
the day needed. Celery should be cleaned 
and put to crisp in ice-water about an 
hour and a half before the meal is served, 
as itjabsorbs water readily and loses its 
delicate flavor. The table should be set 
as soon after the turkey is in the oven as 
possible. All the silver and glass should 
have been polished, at least, the day 
before. If one has a good supply, it can 
be put into order several days before 
it is needed. By polishing the silver in 
an aluminum bath a large quantity can 
be put in order in half an hour. 

In these maidless days, the fireless 
baker and cooker should afford valuable 



assistance in allowing many things to be 
prepared ahead of time, such things, for 
instance, as pumpkin and turnips. The 
soup could be in making the day before 
and reheated easily, unless it hap- 
pens to be a cream soup. In kitchenette 
cookery, the fireless may make possible a 
meal that carries no suggestion of scanti- 
ness. 

If one has a tea-wagon, the drudgery 
of serving is eliminated, because both the 
salad and dessert courses can be in place 
on the trays, when dinner is announced, 
and brought in when needed. By having 
a third tray in waiting on the wagon at 
the end of the meat course, everything 
that is to be removed can be taken out on 
that, returning with the next tray al- 
ready arranged for salad. The coffee 
should be measured and placed in the 
pot with the necessary amount of water 
and egg for clearing, and set on the back 
of the range when dinner is announced. 
When the salad-course is served, the 
coffee should be placed where it will come 
to the boil very slowly. When dessert is 
about to be served, the coffee should be 
allowed to boil up sharply for a second 
and then the pot should be set in a pan 
of hot water. Of course, if one has a 
percolator, the coffee will be in readiness 
for making before the meal is served. 
By planning carefully and sensibly, it 
should be possible for the hostess 
without a maid to serve a really elab- 
orate meal without delay and with a 
charm that adds materially to the 
pleasure of the meal. 



Hail, the Cranberry! 



The rosy velvet of the peach's cheek, 

The purple of the plum, must fade away, 

And e'en the coat of Autumn's latest pear, 
Dusk-gold and tawny-russet, must decay. 

And still, no lack of appetizing sauce, 

Piquant and rich, your winter fare need show, 

For then the brilliant jewel of the marsh 

Your board shall brighten with its crimson 
glow. 



And if, perchance, your family would dine 
On dainty tart or satisfying pie, 

What better filling for the same than this, 
The juiceful berry of the ruby dye? 

So hail we all with joyous gratitude 
Pomona's solace for a season chill, 

Fit emblem of the fireside's cosy charm 
When Winter's frosty step is at the sill! 

— Harriet Whitney Symonds. 



Cheese 

By Hazel B. Stevens 



AT our house, in the event of a 
sudden food emergency, — such 
as need for a quick supper, hurry- 
up picnic plans, or the unexpected coming 
of guests, — to the query, "What shall 
we fix?" some one of the family, unless 
some other menu is obviously available, 
promptly answers — "Cheese!' And then 
we laugh. 

Or else somebody just goes down cellar 
and gets the cheese, without saying any- 
thing. Nobody ever bothers to ask, 
"Is there Cheese?" For there, prac- 
tically, always is. 

Now, I would not lead the reader to 
think that, as a family, we live on cheese 
exclusively. Or even that we eat it 
every day. Merely that it is a good old 
standby to have on hand; and perhaps not 
properly appreciated by all cooks. It 
may, on short notice, be converted into 
any one of a dozen appetizing concoc- 
tions. It may be the main ingredient, or 
a very efficient auxiliary. 

Personally, I like to think that no one 
could happen into our house at any time 
of the day or night, needing food, that 
we could not supply that need without 
■flurry or embarrassment, and in a way 
that would not suggest a makeshift, 
within the briefest sort of time limit. 
One of the reasons why we might dare 
make such a boast, is the fat, comfortably 
adequate cheese below stairs. For we 
buy a whole cheese at a time, and keep 
a standing order with a good factory for 
the kind of full-cream cheese, with a 
"bite" to it, that we particularly like. 
One cheese lasts us three months or over; 
so, you see, we don't eat it three times a 
day! A whole cheese keeps perfectly 



gar, and may be wrapped in a towel 
slightly moistened with vinegar. 

It is unnecessary to state that we get 
better cheese, and cheaper, than if we 
bought it pound by pound. 

The other night, an automobile load 
of seven accompanied us home — all of 
us famished — after ten o'clock at night. 
We had been away in the canyon for 
ten days, and the larder, consequently, 
was "empty" of perishables. We served 
hot cheese sandwiches, — ■ sometimes 
called "Cheese Delights," — 'fried a 
golden brown; along with apricot-pine- 
apple conserve and hot coffee. The 
bread we had brought with us. Counting 
the low bowl of nasturtiums in the 
center of the table, could we by long 
planning have thought up a simple 
"golden" supper that would have been 
prettier, or more satisfying? 

To make the cheese sandwiches, press 
sliced cheese firmly between slices of 
bread cut not too thin; and cut the sand- 
wiches across either in the triangular 
or oblong shape. I fried them, this time, 
in olive oil, since I had no butter. Lack- 
ing either, I could have used good clear 
bacon drippings. 

Instead of the sandwiches, I might have 
served rarebit on toast, or just toasted 
cheese, or tomato-cheese "wiggle." 
Crackers would have gone as well as 
toast with the three above. Slices of 
stale bread, laid in a dripping pan and 
covered with thin slices of cheese, and 
with a half a cup of milk poured into the 
pan, makes a quick "oven" dish, which 
will be ready as soon as the cheese is 
melted. The milk soaks up into the 
bread, rendering it the consistency of 



well for the length of time mentioned, if custard. 

it is carefully wrapped, and put in a Given eggs, but not bread, I should 

moderately cool place. Where there is a have beaten up puffy omelets, and 

tendency to mold, the cheese may be sprinkled grated cheese generously over 

wiped off with a cloth wrung from vine- the top of each before I folded it, and 

286 



CHEESE 



'287 



took it up. These, delicately brown, 
served with a tart red jelly, would have 
been a delight to the eye and to the 
palate. My rule is, beat whites and yolks 
of eggs separately, not trying to manage 
an omelet of more than three eggs at a 
time. To the yolks, add a tablespoonful 
of milk for each egg; and fold the yolks 
lightly into the whites. The secrets 
of a successful omelet are: to beat whites 
stiff, fold together lightly, and get the 
omelet immediately into the hot greased 
griddle. 

Or a Cheese Souffle: 



2 tablespoonfuls butter 

3 tablespoonfuls flour 
% cup scalded milk 

\ teaspoonful salt 



Few grains cayenne 
^ cup grated cheese 
Yolks 2 eggs 
Whites 2 eggs 



Melt butter, add flour, and when well 
mixed, add scalded milk gradually. Then 
add salt, cayenne, and cheese, and well- 
beaten yolks. Cook until thick. Cut 
and fold in well-beaten whites and cook 
over boiling water fifteen minutes, with- 
our removing the cover during the fifteen 
minutes. Serve immediately. 

For a Welsh rarebit, there are many 
good conventional rules. We are very 
fond, too, of what an English cook called 
the "original English" rarebit. It is no 
more than straight melted cheese, to 
which has been added a little milk, and 
extra salt just as it is taken up. Instead 
of milk, or along with it, we often add a 
tablespoonful of catsup, or two of chili 
sauce. In the out-doors, or where the 
odor is not objectionable, onions may be 
sliced thin and sauted in bacon drippings; 
when the onions are cooked tender, add 
the cheese, and serve the dish as soon as 
the cheese is melted. This is piquant. 

Other possibilities for my " sudden 
supper," granted a few cans in the store 
cupboard, would have been a tomato- 
cheese-salmon combination, cooked in the 
frying pan with generous seasoning of 
salt, pepper, and butter, and thickened — 
not too dry — with bread crumbs. 

So much for cheese as the complete 
base of a meal. 

We make our own pimiento cheese, at 



a cost of not more than a fourth what we 
pay by the small package amount; a 
comparison of ours with the commercial, 
from the standpoint of either looks or 
taste, is certainly not to the detriment of 
ours. Take one large can of tinned milk, 
one small can of pimientos, chopped fine, 
to one pound of cheese. Cook over hot 
water in a double boiler until the mixture 
thickens. Season with salt and paprika, 
just before taking off; the amount of salt 
depends on the saltiness of the original 
cheese, of course, and upon taste. 

This in itself is a good base for informal 
luncheons. Thin bread and butter 
spread with it, and served with a "green 
salad," is delicious. Or nuts and plum, 
or some other tart fruit jelly served 
along with it, so that each person can 
make his own combination, is good. 

For the lunch basket, sandwiches quite 
differently flavored may be made by 
combining with the pimiento cheese 
chopped olives, either green or ripe; 
chopped chive, or pepper-grass or water- 
cress; or any kind of chopped pickle; 
chopped nuts; or currant jelly may be 
spread in a thin layer over the cheese, — 
the cheese keeps the jelly from "soaking 
into" the bread. 

"What is it that makes your salads 
different?' 3 asked a guest. — T have a 
reputation for salads, it seems. — Of 
course, there are many reasons; but one 
of them might be given with the family 
chorus-word — ■ " Cheese ! " 

A little crumbled cheese, not enough 
to be detected, gives richness and "tang" 
to almost any meat, fish, vegetable, or 
fruit salad. Grated cheese sprinkled over 
the top gives both color and flavor. Then 
there are delightful salads where the cheese 
is meant to be recognized: as, sliced pine- 
apple spread with a soft creamed cheese, 
and the center piled with dressing. 

At some exclusive hotels noted for 
clever chefs of taste, they serve certain 
vegetable dishes under fancy names, the 
secret of which is — "Cheese!" The 
four quarters of cauliflower, — after they 
have been cooked in salted boiling water 



288 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



until tender, and then drained, — may 
be fitted together in a baking-dish, the 
center hole filled with cheese, and a 
cream sauce poured around the base. 
Fifteen minutes in the oven will melt 
the cheese. Or the tender cauliflower 
may be arranged in layers in a casse- 
role with bread crumbs, plenty of butter, 
pepper and salt, and crumbled cheese, 
and milk enough to moisten well. Many 
left-over vegetables, including string 
beans and potatoes, may be made equally 
palatable on the second day by the above 
method of serving. Scalloped potatoes, 
where the raw sliced potatoes are used, 
may be improved by a little crumbled 
cheese. Rice, in alternating layers with 
cheese and bits of butter, and well mois- 



tened with milk, is excellent as a vegetable. 

Instead of the conventional way of serv- 
ing macaroni and cheese, try pouring over 
the macaroni a cheese cream-sauce based 
on the water which you have drained off 
from the macaroni, thickened with flour 
mixed smooth with milk. This way takes 
less cheese, and is richer in effect, because 
the cheese flavor is more successfully 
blended throughout the macaroni. The 
sauce should be well salted. 

Two more details about cheese — 
Bits of the left-overs may be never so 
dry, yet they may be grated and used 
for flavorings. There is on the market 
now a regular cheese-grinder. Bits of 
cheese may be dropped into it, and ground 
out as needed. 



A Song 



The wheel turns and the water falls. 
Shall we not linger here and rest? 

The sun, grown weary of the day, 
Has lit his camp fires in the west, 
And far away 
A late bird calls. 

The wheel turns and the slow hours fall 
From off Time's spindle. You and I, 

Shall we have woven a cloth of gold, 
To make Love brave in, ere we die 
Or grow too old 
To hear him call? 

The wheel turns and the water falls. 
The singing stream that knew the hill 

Leaps to the wheel, and, broken there, 
Goes coursing onwards, singing stil!, 
And hasting where 
The deep sea calls. 

The wheel stops. See, the shadows fall, 
The sleeping sun no beacon shows. 

Belov'd, we too, even as the stream, 
Have known the breaking wh^l it knovs; 
But holds our dream 
Till Death shall call. 

— Ethel Clijjord. 






Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 





"Innings!" 

DUNBAR gave a start and muttered, 
"I thought that was the dinner 
bell — Hope they have a good — " He 
paused a moment. "Who is that?" he 
exclaimed; "looks like the pictures of 
St. Peter, as I'm alive — " 

"Aha, but are you?" replied the 
specter, advancing. "I am glad to be so 
easily recognized — that bell was 
Charon's. 

"Who are you?" he asked. 

"Dunbar of Norburg." 

"And your age?" 

"Forty-two." 

St. Peter consulted his books and 
replied, "Why, you are not due for forty- 
five years yet! What hurried you on so 
soon?" 

"Heart failure," Dunbar faltered. 

"Yes, people usually do have 'heart 
failure' when they die," St. Peter chuck- 
led, "but to be specific." 

Dunbar did not reply, and St. Peter 
took down the phone and after a mo- 
ment lost his look of bewilderment and 
perplexity. 

"Ah, yes, I see, I understand! Mes- 
senger says you flew mad at your daughter 
because she wanted 35.99 for a new hat 
and you thought 33.99 was enough — 
as that was all your mother used to pay 
for a hat! There are a good many like 
you - 'Fess up, is this true:" 

Junbar bowed his head and blushed. 

"Well, I thought as much! Heart 
l.ilure. ha, ha, such a convenient cloak 
f r jus plain 'mad." St. Peter turned 
to th j hone again. 



"Yes, I see, — always a hearty eater, 
would have sweets and meats regardless 
of all medical advice to the contrary! 
Yes, flew mad again last night at his 
gardener because he could not pay his 
rent — Yes, habitual overeater, habitual 
grumbler at home, miserly for one of his 
means — " 

St. Peter turned to Dunbar, whose face 
wore a look of discomfiture by this time. 

"We have many similar cases!" he 
finally offered. "Peters of Bleerville 
came up yesterday — 'heart failure,' 
plain overeating; Willis of Selton — 
'heart failure,' plain overdrinking; Phil- 
man of Neurton — same cause, plain dis- 
sipation; Carlmeyer of Mayton — 'heart 
failure' again, plain overworking, — fifty 
yesterday! A very common malady, 
.indeed, contagious and infectious!" 

Just at this moment a weak knock 
sounded, and Weasel, Dunbar's gardener, 
entered. 

"Name?" inquired St. Peter. 

"Weasel." Dunbar started. 

"Age?" 

"Eighty-four." 

"What brought you here?" 

"Result of an auto accident." 

Dunbar gasped and turned pale. "Why, 
I hit him three weeks ago, but he seemed 
all right yesterday — I — I — forgot he 
had been laid up when he said he could 
not pay his rent — I — " 

" Silent ! " commanded St. Peter. " Yes, 
Weasel, I remember you now. We were 
told to look for you forty years ago, when 
you were run down by the train; but 
good, clean habits, sane living, a keen 
philosophy of life pulled you through, 

289 



290 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and but for this accident you need not 
have come for ten years yet." 

St. Peter looked thoughtful! 

"I believe you have helped me out, 
though," he finally remarked. "You 
have all the virtues Dunbar and these 
fifty others lack. I'll appoint you their 
deputy for six months. Give them good, 
hard discipline in the virtues of life. 

"Yes, you can do it well! They are 
to obey your every command. I'll give 
them rigid examination when the time of 
probation has expired — • and — " 

"Oh, papa, wake up, you are having 
nightmare — ■" cried a sweet voice. 

Dunbar opened his eyes, started, and 
strove to control the muscles of his face 
as he wildly expostulated — ■ 

"Oh, Dorothy, get two hats at any 
price — ■ I can pay for them. Go and 
tell your mother not to fuss for supper — ■ 
bread and milk will do — the doctors 
advised it, you know. Yes, send Weasel 
up at once — I want to see him on 
important business matters — •" 

L. M. 

* * * 
Water Plants for Your Windows 

ANY time till the end of December we 
plant the Chinese Sacred Lilies and 
Narcissi in water. For growing them we 
use large glass bowls eight inches in di- 
ameter. There are bowls provided 
especially ornamented in original Chinese 
Hieroglyphics, and these are pretty as well 
as ornamental. 

Three or four bulbs of the Chinese 
Lily are put into each, supported by 
placing pebbles about the bulbs, and the 
bowl is filled two-thirds full of water and 
set in a sunny window in a cool room 
free from draughts. As growth pro- 
ceeds, the roots work their way among the 
pebbles, matting together, and this 
holds the bulbs as securely as if they 
grew in the ground. 

If your room is too warm, the bulbs 
will grow too fast and the stalks will be 
weak and spindling, not able to hold up 
the flower heads, which will also be small. 

The clean light and dark browns of 



the roots showing through the glass of 
the bowl contrast delightfully with the 
rich, fresh green of the stalks as develop- 
ment goes on. 

All Chinamen in this country grow 
their native lily, for with them it is the 
good-luck plant, and when it grows well, 
as it always does, becomes a good omen, 
for it means that luck will be with them 
throughout the year. These Celestials 
literally "love-up" these plants, and so 
they bloom well for them, and so they will 
for you if you provide the few neces- 
saries already mentioned. 

The bulbs that you can buy at your 
florist's will yield large, white flowers with 
a yellow center, deliciously fragrant, some 
six or seven weeks from planting; so if 
you put some into water, at once, you 
will be delighted with bloom in January 
and February, when flowers are at a 
premium. And if you continue planting 
every week for a few weeks, you can 
prolong your water-blooming plants 
nearly till Easter. 

A bowl of these flowers will perfume 
the whole atmosphere of a room with the 
most bewitching odors, giving an air of 
culture and refinement to the simplest 
arrangements. 

The Narcissi 

The Narcissus or Yellow Daffodil grew 
first in southern France and along the 
banks of the Mediterranean Sea. It was 
then carried over to England and 
then over here to us. It used to be the 
custom to plant them on All-Hallows, 
and if the bulbs were well developed by 
St. Barbara's Day, December 4, there 
would be flowers by Christmas, and this 
was a token of a fruitful New Year. 

These flowers appear in great bunches, 
often ten, eighteen, and more flowers on 
one stalk. The bulbs do not throw out 
as many stalks as those of the Chinese 
Sacred Lily, but there are many more 
flowers to a stalk. 

The flowers are white in color, only more 
so than those of the Chinese Sacred Lily, 
and have a double yellow center. They 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



291 



are deiiciously fragrant. Planting at 
once and at short intervals for a few- 
weeks will provide you flowers for a long 
time in the Xew Year. 

There is no simpler way to grow plants 
than to grow them in water, and we 
would not like to have a season pass 
without these beautiful water plants in 
our home. We have no hothouse or any 
special room for plants, but grow them 
in the family living-room where we can 
see them and enjoy them all the time. 

We have four large windows to the 
south, and one to the east, and it is in 
these south windows where the water 
plants luxuriate, along with the other 
plants. 

The windows come within four inches of 
the floor and are high in proportion. A 
shelf a little below the window-sills is 
the place where the plants stand. Thus 
they get plenty of sunshine and light, do 
not shut out our view, and always thrive. 

If your room is too warm, I can only 
promise you spindling plants, small 
flowers and short-lived at that. f. m. c. 
* * * 

Candlesticks 

WHENEVER I see a pretty candle- 
stick I have a sudden longing to 
possess it, and I have learned that I am 
not alone in this longing. Many a 
woman has felt the fascination of the 
candlestick. Electric lights are wonder- 
ful, and we would not do without them; 
nevertheless, we love the soft glow of 
candlelight. Perhaps it is a part of our 
inheritance from the past. 

Mother, I remember, used to keep a 
candle in every room in the house. 
Sometimes, when, at an inopportune 
moment, I have been left alone in the 
dark because the electric light took a 
notion to "go out," I have wished that 
my mother's habit still prevailed. 

But in those "good old days of old" 
candlesticks were not expensive items. 
Not always. In the frontier homes they 
were apt to be as rustic as was the house 
itself and all its furnishings. The can- 



dlesticks were not of brass, or other 
metal, carefully made to be handed down 
to posterity. Ours was — Well, mother 
made them herself. Thus: 

A bit of board about an inch thick, or 
more, of the size of a book, corners 
rounded with a knife — this the founda- 
tion. In the center of the block, mother 
would draw a triangle to fit neatly over 
a candle circle. At each angle of the 
triangle a nail was driven into the block, 
just far enough to hold firm, and a 
candle inserted between the nails. Often- 
times a little knob was fastened at one 
corner of the wooden block to serve as a 
handle for the most rustic of candlesticks. 

Remembering my mother's candle- 
sticks, not long ago I made a very dainty 
"consolation" gift along similar lines. 
It was made like mother's candlesticks, 
only smaller, and carried a tag: "To 
light your way." I selected a little pine 
block, smoothed it with sandpaper, 
rubbed it with powdered pumace stone 
wet with water (linseed oil might be used) 
till it was as smooth as glass. Holding 
my candle in the center, I drew a circle, 
which guided me in the placing of three 
headless nails. At one corner of my 
block I screwed into place, standing 
upright, a large screw eye to be used as a 
handle. Then I silvered the entire 
candlestick with aluminum paint. In- 
deed, it was a pretty little thing. Among 
my guests, it was something of a novelty, 
and attracted more attention than the 
larger prizes. 

A month later the girl who drew the 
"consolation candlestick" invited us to 
her home. To our delight she had made 
another use for the candlestick idea, for 
at each of our places stood a little home- 
made candlestick (patterned after mine), 
painted in ivory enamel, and holding up 
its bit of light: and after the luncheon, 
each of us carefully carried home our very 
dainty candlestick. We'll always re- 
member that luncheon! 

In fact, the idea spread farther. One 
of our number (a bride) has made a 
candlestick for each and every room in 



292 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



her pretty new bungalow, and decorated 
each candlestick to match the furnish- 
ings of the room. — It doesn't matter 
if the electric lights do "go out." Be- 
hold! — a candlestick. r. f. 

* * * 
Orange Jelly 

THIS k is a most convenient sweet to 
have-on hand in quantity. It is 
delicious in itself and makes an invalu- 
able medium for securing those fruit 
flavors that refuse to form jellies alone. 
The orange jelly only develops the other 
flavors instead of masking them. This 
jelly requires a week or more to become 
stiff enough to be classed as a jelly; 
therefore it is best to make it in advance. 

Remove the rind from one large orange 
in quarters, and cut the rind into thin 
slices. Break the orange into sections 
and slice thin. Add the juice of half a 
lemon and cut the rind (natural) into 
thin strips. Follow the same process 
with one-fourth of a grapefruit. Place 
all in a large bowl and cover with cold 
water. Cover and set aside in a cool 
place over night, or even for twenty-four 
hours. At the end of that time turn all 
into a granite pan and add water enough 
to cover the fruit. Simmer for an hour 
or more until the rinds can be pierced with 
a straw easily. If necessary, add more 
water during the cooking, but try to keep 
no more than the original level. 

When the rinds are tender turn all into 
a jelly bag and drain without squeezing. 
When well drained measure the juice and 
turn into a preserving kettle with an 
equal amount of sugar. Cook steadily, 
but moderately, till the juice forms in 
drops on the edge of the spoon and drops 
away sharply. Continue cooking for five 
minutes and then pour into glasses. 
Cover and set aside to thicken. 

Th^ thickened jelly can be added to an 
~4~a! measure of any fruit juice of which 
it is desired to make jelly. Cherries, 
h) ^berries, strawb r !es and peaches can 
be made into jel v in this way. Add as 
much sugar as fruit juice, and take no 



account of the orange jelly when measur- 
ing the sugar. Cook in the usual way for 
jelly and give the usual tests. w. a. w. 

* * * 

How to Make a New Fudge 

MARSHMALLOW fudge is de- 
licious. To make it, boil two 
cups of sugar with one cup of milk or 
cream. Then add cocoa, or one-fourth 
bar of chocolate. After this mixture 
has boiled, put in butter, — about three 
tablespoonfuls. When the candy is done, 
add one-half teaspoonful of vanilla or 
pineapple extract. 

On the buttered plate, place marsh- 
mallows at small intervals apart, so 
that there will be a marshmallow to each 
square of the fudge. Then pour the 
candy over the marshmallows, and allow 
to cool. When it has hardened some- 
what, cut into squares. B.I. 

* * * 

Cinnamon-Drop Apples 

SELECT a good, medium-sized, green 
apple (as Pippin), wash, and core. 
Fill center with red cinnamon candies, 
or use part sugar and part cinnamon 
drops. Bake until apples crack open. 
Baste the center of the apple with the 
red syrup which will form in the bottom 
of the pan. a. c. h. 



* * # 



AN economical and delicious dessert 
can be made as follows: 
Boil a sweet potato until quite tender, 
cut in cubes, place them in a pan with 
sugar and water and boil until the syrup 
is quite thick. Remove from fire, and 
eat with the syrup when cool. If the 
sweet potato is good, it tastes like marron- 
glace. The sugar and water should 
make sufficient syrup to soak the cubes 
of sweet potato thoroughly. No measure 
is given, as that depends entirely on size 
of sweet potato. l. 



The necessaries of life might be 
cheaper if we did not give the luxuries 
right of way. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 4089. — "Is it possible to Pre- 
serve White Grapes as you would peaches or 
other fruit, at home, with success? j- *N( ^ 

"I once ate tongue served with a delicious 
Brown Sauce that had a good deal of butter in it, 
a caramelized taste, also a piquant taste, though 
not too sour. It was very dark brown in color. 
Can you give me the recipe? 

"Which kind of Preserving Jars are the best 
for keeping fruit? In those with an air space 
below the cover would you fill this space with 
paraffin?" 

White Grape Preserve 

SQUEEZE out the pulp from white 
grapes, and cook in double boiler until 
soft enough to separate the seeds easily 
by pressing the fruit through a colander. 
Add the skins to the seedless pulp, 
measure the mixture, allow a cup and 
one-half of sugar to every two cups of 
grapes, and cook the mixture for fifteen 
to twenty minutes. Can and seal as with 
any preserves. 



B 



rown 



Sauce 



It is difficult to give a'recipe from the 
description of how a sauce or any other 
dish looked and tasted. Here, however, 
is a good recipe for a standard brown 
sauce to serve with meats. 

Cook two tablespoonfuls of minced 
onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter until 
both onion and butter are brown. Strain 
out onion, and add to the butter four 
tablespoonfuls of browned flour. Stir as 
for white sauce; add one cup of brown 
stock, and a bayleaf, a sprig of thyme, 
and six peppercorns tied in a bit of net- 
ting or thin cheesecloth. Cook until 
sauce is thick, then add one tablespoonful 



of vinegar. Extra seasoning can be used 
if desired, and Worcestershire or any other 
sauce can be substituted for the vinegar. 

Preserving Jars 

The question of the best kind of pre- 
serving jars is one that is frequently dis- 
cussed by housewives. The fact is that 
all standard makes are good, and it is 
difficult to name one kind which is pre- 
eminently the best. The keeping of fruit 
or any other food in glass jars depends 
entirely on the complete sterilization of 
both the fruit and the jar, and the perfect 
exclusion of air by sealing the contents. 
If this is done, the contents cannot spoil. 
We have known housekeepers to wipe out 
the inside of a sterilized jar with a clean 
dishtowel, and then wonder why the 
contents spoiled. The apparently clean 
dishtowel was not sterile, and carried 
gern\s from the air into the jar, thence to 
the fruit. We have also known house- 
keepers to sterilize the jars, but not the 
rubbers. We have known jars, com- 
pletely sterilized by boiling for twenty 
minutes, to be taken from the boiler, and 
allowed to stand on the table until cool. 
This was simply an invitation to the 
germs in the air to enter — an invitation 
which never fails of acceptance. Every 
one who cans food should do this work 
as carefully as a surgeon works to ex- 
clude germs from wounds. 

Once the principles of sterilization and 
exclusion of air are mastered, there will 
be no such thing as failure in canning. 
As for jars, any old wide-necked bottles 



293 



294 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



can be used by an expert, or jars whose 
covers have been lost or broken. One 
such woman of our acquaintance puts up 
fruit and vegetables in lidless bottles, 
which she seals by pouring in an inch of 
melted Crisco or other similar fat, first 
heated to a high degree in a pan to ensure 
the destruction of possible germs. As 
soon as the jar and its contents are cold, 
the fat forms a solid cake, which excludes 
the air perfectly. The fat is not wasted, 
for it can be used over and over again. 
Even olive oil, first well heated, may be 
used to seal a jar, though this, being 
liquid, is neither so convenient to use nor 
quite so sure a seal, unless the jar is to 
remain undisturbed on the shelf until 
time to open it, for if tilted so as to spill 
the oil or to expose the fruit or vegetables 
to the air, the germs may effect an 
entrance. 

Paraffin may be used to seal a jar, in 
the same way that fat is used, but it is 
by no means necessary, or even advisable 
to fill the air space below the cover of a 
jar with paraffin as our correspondent 
suggests. The cover should be put on 
without completely sealing the jar, and 
the whole thing stood in the canner for 
a few minutes to sterilize the bubble of 
air. Very often the heat of the fruit will 
do this, if the lid has been sterilized and 
immediately put on while the fruit is 
boiling hot. 

Query No. 4090. — "Will you please let me 
have recipes for three or four good Entrees? 

"Will you give me a recipe for Chocolate 
Fudge Sauce to pour over pastry?" 

The following are very good dishes for 
use as entrees: 

Terrapin Chicken 

Chop together two hard-cooked eggs 
and two cooked chicken livers, and mix 
these with two cups of cold, cooked 
chicken, cut into sniall pieces. Season 
with salt and pepper to taste, and a very 
small grating of nutmeg. 

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a frying pan; add two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, and one cup of a mixture of equal 



parts of chicken stock and cream. Cook 
same as white sauce; add chopped mixt- 
ure, cover, and simmer over gentle heat 
for ten minutes. Before serving add the 
yolk of one egg, beaten with two table- 
spoonfuls of cream and one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, stir this into hot mixture, 
and pour into timbale cups, crustades, 
or into a pretty, deep dish. 

Cuban Eggs on Toast • 

Cook together for five minutes one- 
fourth a cup of sausage meat and one 
teaspoonful of grated onion. Add to pan 
six beaten eggs, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a dash of pepper, and stir until 
eggs are creamy. Pour over slices of 
buttered toast on a platter, and garnish 
with slices of fresh tomato sprinkled with 
a little chopped green pepper. 

Oysters in Cucumber Cups 

Cut large cucumbers into two parts, 
crosswise, scoop out centers, and slice off 
small pieces from the rounded ends so that 
the cups will stand upright. Fill with 
small raw oysters, minced fish, or lobster, 
and bake in pan in hot oven until cucum- 
bers are tender. Serve with a spoonful 
of tartar sauce in each cup. 

Other good entrees are: A whole calf's 
liver, larded with strips of choice fat 
bacon, braised, and served with a brown 
sauce. Or Oysters a la Mornay, or 
Potatoes a l'Otero, both published in 
American Cookery for October. 

Chocolate Fudge Sauce 

Cook together four ounces of chocolate, 
two ounces of sugar, and one cup and one- 
half of water. Blend one tablespoonful 
of cornstarch with one tablespoonful of 
butter, or three of cream, and stir into 
hot mixture. Cook until the whole boils, 
then remove from fire and add a few drops 
of vanilla. 



Query No. 4091. — "Is it possible to make a 
Butterscotch Sauce for ice cream, such as is 
served over the butterscotch ice cream at 
Schraft's? I tried a recipe that called for vinegar 
in it, but did not care for the result." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



RISCO 

For Frying -For Shortening 
^ For Cake Making 

makes for 
bettor cooking 




Crisco is always sold in this air- 
tight, sanitary package — never in 
bulk. Accept nothing else. One 
pound net weight, and larger sizes. 




Do you know how to plan your meals so 
that yon can eat what you like, yet 
hay e a wholesome balanced diet ? 

"Balanced Daily Diet", an up-to- 
date book written by Janet Mc- 
Kenzie Hill, founder of the Boston 
Cooking School and editor of 
"American Cookery" gives you 
an easily followed table for plan- 
ning wholesome, enjoyable meals, 
with everyday foods. Ready-made 
menus given for those who do not 
wish to plan their own combi- 
nations. More than 150 tempting 
new recipes included in this valu- 
able book. Sent postpaid, for only 
10 cents in stamps. Address De- 
partment A-ll, The Procter & 
Gamble Company, Cincinnati, 
Ohio. 



Crisco is a vegetable product that is a perfect shortening, 
a perfect frying fat, and perfect enrichment for cakes, 
because it is richer, more delicate, and more digestible 
than other cooking fats, and because it is always the 
same. 

These things are true because Crisco is vegetable fat 
made by a special process. There is nothing else like 
it. It is always snowy white, sweet, wholesome, and 
100% richness. It does not contain water or salt. 
It is so good and pure that it does not turn rancid. 
You need not even keep it on ice. 

Use Crisco for Shortening 

Pie-crust, short-breads and biscuits are as wholesome as 
they are good, when made with Crisco, because Crisco 
is strictly vegetable, and therefore is easily digested. 
Crisco is tasteless and odorless, too, so you can enjoy 
delicate, fruity flavors in pie and short-cake fillings that 
are smothered when ordinary shortening is used. 

Use Crisco for Cakes 

Crisco's whiteness and delicacy make it ideal for the 
finest cakes. Simply add salt, and Crisco will give you 
the real butter taste in cake, at half of butter expense. 
Crisco is so rich that it keeps cake fresh unusually long. 
Cookies, puddings and desserts are appetizing indeed 
when enriched with Crisco. 

Use Crisco for Frying 

Here is where you'll enjoy Crisco most — because 
Crisco fries without smoking. What a relief to have the 
house free from acrid odor when you make croquettes 
and other tempting fried dishes. Fried things taste 
better, too, because a crisp brown crust forms quickly, 
so that all the flavor is retained. Since no taste of the 
food escapes into the Crisco, just strain the melted fat 
and use it again and again. It cooks away so very 
little in each frying that you'll find Crisco a big economy 
on this account alone. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

295 



296 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Butterscotch Sauce 

We do not know the kind of sauce used 
by Schraft's, but a little vinegar is called 
for in the best recipes for both butter- 
scotch and butterscotch sauce. Here is 
a recipe with the minimum of vinegar: 

Melt in an agate saucepan two table- 
spoonfuls of butter; add two tablespoon- 
fuls of browned flour, stir to a paste, then 
add three-quarters of a cup of water, and 
cook same as white sauce. Lastly, add 
one-fourth a cup of molasses, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar, and one cup of brown 
sugar, and let the whole boil up once. 



Spiced Peaches 

Proceed as for spiced figs, using seven 
pounds of fruit and five pounds of sugar. 
Additional water, after the first pint, need 
not be added to the fresh fruit. The 
quantities given for both spiced peaches 
and figs should fill about eight quart jars. 
The fruit will keep without sealing in a 
cool closet or cellar. 



Query No. 4092. — "Kindly give in some 
future issue a good, rich recipe for Preserved 
Figs. Also for Spiced Figs and Spiced Peaches." 

Preserved Figs 

Pour three quarts of boiling water over 
three quarts of figs, first sprinkled with 
one-half cup of baking soda. Let stand 
ten minutes, then rinse figs well with cold 
water run through them in a colander. 
Boil two pounds of sugar in three pints 
of water for ten minutes; add figs, cover 
closely, and cook slowly until figs are clear 
and tender. This may take two hours, 
and the quantity of water should not be 
allowed to become too much reduced, but 
should be added to, from time to time. 
When figs are clear, lift them out into 
jars, boil down syrup to fifty or fifty-five 
degrees by gauge, then pour over figs in 
jars and seal. The rind of two or three 
oranges, cut in small pieces and cooked 
with the figs, is, by some, considered an 
improvement. 

Spiced Figs 

Cook five quarts of figs in one pint of 
water and one pint of vinegar until tender. 
Add to kettle: Three pounds of sugar, an 
ounce of whole cloves, and an ounce of 
stick cinnamon broken in small pieces — 
these spices to be loosely tied in cheese- 
cloth — ■ and use boiling water barely to 
cover the figs. Cook the whole until the 
figs are clear and transparent, then re- 
move the spices and put figs into jars. 



Query No. 4093 . — ''Can you give me a recipe 
for a peculiarly Rich Light Waffle, which I have 
been told is made with cream?" 

Rich Waffles 

Add to two cups of cream the beaten 
yolks of three eggs, one-fourth cup of 
sugar, two cups of flour, sifted with two 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Stir to a 
smooth batter. Lastly, add the whites 
of the eggs beaten dry. Cook in hot, well- 
greased tins, and dust with powdered 
sugar before serving. The quantities 
given should make a dozen waffles. 

Query No. 4094. — "Will you please tell me 
how Flowers are Crystallized for decorating 
cakes?" 

Crystallized Flowers 

The crystallized flowers used for deco- 
ration in some of the hotels call for long 
practice and great skill to make. In fact. 
a good artist in this line is a rare thing. 
But the following is a simple and effec- 
tive method, which will give a pleasing 
result. 

Brush over the petals and leaves of the 
flowers with white of egg beaten just 
enough to flow from a camel's-hair brush 
— a little water, about a tablespoonful to 
each egg-white, will prevent too many 
bubbles from forming. Then dip the 
leaves, if flat, into a fine quality of well- 
crystallized granulated sugar, or the sugar 
may be sifted over both leaves and flowers, 
which are then gently shaken to get rid 
of the superfluity. Flowers with stiff 
petals lend themselves best to the treat- 
ment, though violets, nasturtiums, prim- 
roses, and some of the single roses are very 
effective when sugar-coated in this way. 



ADYF.RTTSFMFVTS 




Batter Keeps! 

To get the utmost out of in- 
gredients and to use them in 
more than ordinary ways — that 
is where domestic science ex- 
perts and students of modern 
cookery excel. 

That is why they have been 
so hearty in their endorsement 
of Ryzon, The Perfect Baking 
Powder. It is not only depend- 
able and scientifically accurate, 
but it proves itself a valuable ally 
in the search for new and time- 
saving methods with which to 
simplify cooking. 




Ryzon 




Ryzon is 40c for a full 16 ounce pound — also 25c 
and 15c packages. The new Ryzon Baking Book 
(original price Si. 00), containing 250 practical rec- 
ipes, wilt be mailed, postpaid upon receipt of 30c in 
stamps or coin, except in Canada. A pound tin of 
Ryzon and a copy of Ryzon Baking Book will be sent 
free, postpaid, to any domestic science teacher who 
writes us on school stationery, giving official position. 




For instance, batter made with 
Ryzon Baking Powder may be put 
into ice box or a cool place for a day 
or overnight without harm. The 
biscuits or cake will be just as good 
and rise just as well as if baked 
immediately. 

The following biscuits, mixed in 
the morning, baked in the afternoon 
and served crisp and hot are deli- 
cious and unusual for afternoon tea. 

Ryzon Cheese Drop Biscuit 

1 level cupful (Vi pound) flour 

Vi teaspoonful salt 

Vi cupful (1 gill) water 

3 level teaspoonfuls Ryzon 

1 level tablespoonful (Vi ounce) butter or fat 

8 level tablespoonfuls (Vi cup) grated cheese 

Mix like drop baking powder biscuit. 
Bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Sufficient 
for twelve biscuits. 

GENERALCHEMICALCQ 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 
NEW YORK 



Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

297 



298 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query No.4095. — "Is the Filet of veal the 
same as the Fricandeau? What part of the beef 
animal is the hanging tender, or tenderloin?" 

The filet of veal is the thick, upper part 
of the leg. It may be said to correspond 
to the round of beef. It is cut into 
steaks, or is roasted whole. The frican- 
deau is the part of the filet that corre- 
sponds to the top round in beef. This is 
most frequently cooked in one piece, and 
is the most expensive cut in the veal 
animal, since the entire upper part of the 
leg has to be sacrificed to obtain it. In 
many restaurants the words filet and 
fricandeau are used synonymously, and 
are applied to the filet only, the true 
fricandeau not being cut. 

The hanging tenderloin is the thick part 
of the skirt steak or diaphragm of the beef 
animal. It is very good when broiled, 
if cut crosswise of the long fibers and in 
rather thin slices. If cut lengthwise, it is 
flavorless and stringy. 



New Books 



I teaspoonful soda 

3 tablespoonfuls 
melted butter 



Query No. 4096.— "Please publish a recipe for 
Griddle Cakes." 

Griddle Cakes with Sour Milk 

li cups flour 

j teaspoonful salt 

2 teaspoonfuls baking 

powder 
1 cup thick sour milk 

Sift together the flour, salt, and baking 
powder; stir the soda into the milk; add 
the egg, beaten very light, and the melted 
butter, and stir into the dry ingredients. 
Set by spoonfuls on a hot griddle; when 
bubbles appear throughout, and the cake 
is well browned on the bottom, turn to 
brown the other side. Do not turn the 
cakes but once. Because three table- 
spoonfuls of butter are called for in the 
recipe, it is unnecessary to oil the griddle. 



The teacher was giving the class a nat- 
ural-history lecture on Australia. "There 
is one animal," she said, "none of you 
have mentioned. It does not stand up on 
its legs all the time. It does not walk 
like other animals, but takes funny little 
skips. What is it?" And the class 
yelled with one voice, "Charlie Chaplin!" 



A Thousand Ways to Please a Husband 
with Bettina's Best Recipes. By 
Louise Bennett Weaver and 
Helen Cowles Le Cron. Cloth, 
31.50 net. Britton Publishing Com- 
pany, New York. 

This is something different from the 
ordinary cook-book. It is styled the 
Romance of Cooking and Housekeeping. 
In brief, it gives the first year's experience 
of a young bride's housekeeping, in trying 
to please a husband and in catering to his 
tastes. 

The daily menus are chosen with dis- 
cretion and care, and plain, explicit 
directions are given for the more impor- 
tant dishes of each meal. The plan is 
well conceived and carried out; cer- 
tainly the book is not uninteresting. 

'"And a whole year has gone," said 
Bob, as his eyes met Bettina's across the 
little table set for two. 

"This is our anniversary and I'm mak- 
ing a speech. You are wise because from 
the first you've realized that we get out 
of life just what we put into it. You've 
faced things. You've realized that mar- 
riage isn't a hit-or-miss proposition. 
It's a business — " 

"A glorified business, Bobby. Dealing 
in materials that can't all be felt and seen 
and tasted, but that are, nevertheless, 
just as real as others. And after all, 
romance is really in everything that we 
do lovingly, and intelligently. I find it 
in planning and cooking the best and most 
economical meals that I can, and in 
getting the mending done on time, and 
in keeping the house clean and beautiful. 
And — 'in having you appreciate things." 

The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book. By 
Victor Hirtzler, Chef of Hotel St. 
Francis, San Francisco. Cloth, 450 
pages. Price $5.00. John Willy, 
Publisher, Chicago, 111. 

Mr. Hirtzler has produced a modern 
cook-book of the most comprehensive 
kind. It is one of the most important 



ADVERTISEMENTS 








Wheat Bubbles 

And How We Create Them 

Puffed Wheat is whole wheat 
steam exploded. 

The farmer sends to our hop- 
pers the finest grains he grows. 

We seal those grains in guns, 
then apply an hour of fearful 
heat. When all the wheat 
moisture is turned to steam, we 
shoot the guns and the grains 
explode. 

That is Prof. Anderson's process. The purpose is to blast 
every food cell so digestion is easy and complete. 

But the result is also bubble grains, thin, flaky, toasted, 
with a nutty taste. 

The three Puffed Grains are in this way made the 
most enticing cereal foods in existence. 

Shot From Guns 

Puffed to 8 Times Normal Size 

These airy, flimsy Puffed Grains are 8 times normal 
size. 

They taste like food confections. But they are grain 
foods — two are whole grains — fitted for digestion as 
grains never were before. 

Serve with cream and sugar. Float in your bowls of 
milk. Mix in every fruit dish. Crisp and lightly butter 
for children to eat dry. 

There is no other grain food which children love so well. 



Puffed Wheat 

Puffed Rice 

Corn Puffs 

Also Puffed Rice Pancake Flour 

A New Puffed Product 




Also Pancakes Now 

A Puffed Rice Pancake Flour Mixture 

Now there is also a Puffed Rice Pancake Floor mixture, containing 
Purled Rice ground. It makes fluffy pancakes with a nut-like taste 
— such pancakes as you never tasted. Try it. Just add milk or 
water. The flour is self-raising. 



The Quaker Qats (bmpany 



Sole Makers 



Buv advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

299 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



culinary books that has come from any 
press in the last twenty-five years. 

A feature of this book that will be ap- 
preciated by thousands of caterers, fami- 
lies, and all interested in home economics, 
is the selection and preparation of foods 
in season; the presentation of breakfast, 
luncheon, and dinner menus for every 
day in the year — the selections appro- 
priate, and all of dishes actually prepared 
and served in the Hotel St. Francis. This 
feature of the book gives a suggestive 
quality, a reminder attribute, and a 
knowledge of food economies and food 
attributes that is hereby brought to the 
aid of the proficient and the learner, also 
enables even the inexperienced to produce 
the well-balanced menu. 

The author is one of the ablest chefs of 
the day. He knows his subject thor- 
oughly and presents his menus and 
recipes with the authority of the trained 
expert. No superfluous details of method 
are given. 

The recipes include hors d'ceuvres, 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 



i > 



JOYS and GIRLS enjoy 
the lightness and comfort- 
able security of Velvet Grip Sup- 
porters. And they are the most, 
economical because they prevent 
injury to stockings and give the 
longest wear. 
George Frost Co., Makers, Boston 



soups, fish, meats, poultry, game, salads, 
pastries, ices, and beverages. They 
extend also to teas and suppers. 

The book is indexed and cross-indexed, 
so that every recipe can be referred to on 
the instant. 

This is quite the most considerable and 
important cook-book that has appeared 
in recent years; it bears the insignia of 
merit and authority. Out of the riches 
of a wide experience the author gives the 
best of that of which he doth know. 






THE food retailer should have every 
size of butter dish handily available, 
in the opinion of the Escanaba Manufac- 
turing Company, and the manner in which 
this company delivers its Standard Wire 
End Maple Dishes not only carries out 
this basic principle, but constitutes an 
interesting and unique innovation in the 
trade. 

This company packs its splendid dish 
in tidy cartons, each containing fifty 
dishes. Eight of these cartons are put 
into a light, strong, fiber board case for 
shipment. The retailer can take to his 
wrapping counter a carton of each of the 
six sizes of Standard Wire End Dishes, 
and thus have under his hand a suitable 
dish for any quantity of food which he 
may wish to package. 

The six cartons containing every size 
of the dish do not take up any more room 
on the wrapping counter than a roll of 
paper or a rack of bags. The dishes are 
always clean and in order in the carton 
until the last one is used, when a fresh 
carton is brought from the stock room. 
The fiber board shipping case is light and 
strong. It is easily stored, and when 
opened its contents do not depreciate 
while a portion of them is being used. 

This company takes a commendable 
pride in its Standard Wire End Dish, 
which is made of genuine Northern 
Michigan Sugar Maple. The dishes are 
carefully inspected before packing, and 
are delivered in a neat and modern way 
that makes an instant appeal to the high-| 
class retailer. Practicallv all wholesale' 
grocers and paper jobbers handle these 
EMCO Dishes. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

300 . 



! 



Tastes Good 



On the first snowy morning 
A steaming bowl of 

Wheatena 

My ! but it tastes good ? 

The savory sweetness of those roasted wheat kernels gives a sharpness to your 
appetite for breakfast that makes you eat with a relish. In homes where Wheatena 
has been the favorite cereal for two generations you never hear the query, ' 'Oh ! 
what shall we have for breakfast?" 



Breakfast Food 
Directions 

Into six cups of actively 
boiling, slightly salted water, 
pour, so slowly that boiling 
does not stop, one cup of 
Wheatena, and continue 
boiling three or more minutes, 
then serve. The activity of 
the boiling obviates the ?ieedof 
stirring. 



Wheatena — the 3 minute cereal — 
Tastes Good 

What more delicious or so easily prepared for breakfast 
on cold, frosty mornings? A hot cereal that everyone likes, 
full of the nourishment of the whole wheat kernel, so de- 
lightful in flavor you never tire of it — prepared, ready to 
serve in 3 minutes. And it tastes good ! 

On request the Wheatena Book with many tasty 
Wheatena Recipes will be mailed you free. 

The Wheatena Company, 

Wheatenaville, 

Rahway, New Jersey. 





Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

301 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




TECO 

SELF-RISING 

Pancake 

and Buckwheat 

Flour 

IV a in the Flour, 



Hot cakes ! In a minute ! 

Made with Teco pancake and buckwheat 

flour. 

Wheat cakes ! Waffles ! Gems ! 

Make the finest easily and quickly with 

Teco pancake flour and cold water. 

Buckwheat cakes ! 

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add 

cold water to Teco buckwheat flour. 

THE EKENBERG CO. 

Cortland, N. Y. 

SAWYER CRYSTAL BLUE CO. 

New England Agents 

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass. 



Housekeeper's size, 1 joz., .30 prepaid 
Caterer's size, 1 6oz., $1.00 

(With full directions.) 



Cream Whipping Made 
Easy and Inexpensive 

^ REMO- y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk 

or Top of the Milk Bottle 

It whips up as easily as heavy cream 
and retains its stiffness. 

Every caterer and housekeeper 
wants CREMOVESCO. 

Send for a bottle today. 



Cremo-Vesco Company 

631 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



The Story of Coffee 

Concluded from page 26q 

for it was in that old town, in 1649, that 
the first genuine English coffee-house was 
established. 

What a world of romance and literary 
history centers about those English 
coffee-houses! They spread all over the 
island; London alone is said to have had 
three thousand in Dryden's time. Some, 
such as Will's Coffee-House, will go down 
in the annals of letters as the gathering- 
places of the most brilliant wits and 
dramatists and poets the British Empire 
ever produced. In these cafes, with 
their open fronts in summer and their 
huge log fires in winter, one might have 
found Dryden,' Pope, Gay, Shadwell, all 
the celebrities of the day. Here jokes 
and puns and epigrams bombarded the 
air; here new dramas were planned; here 
satires were written that drove authors 
back to Grub Street in disgrace and 
poverty. 

At first no woman thought of entering 
such a place; it was a sanctuary for men 
only. But, at length, the ladies began to 
come — probably to see if their husbands 
were there — and as the feminine mind 
of the seventeenth century was not in- 
terested intensely in play-writing and 
similar literary feats, cards were intro- 
duced for their benefit. Then came a 
rampage of gambling; women literally 
went wild over it. Husbands suddenly 
found themselves ruined through the 
gambling debts of their wives; ladies of 
good families committed suicide because 
of such losses; one woman, it is recorded, 
wagered the very clothes off her back and 
had to retire to an upper chamber while 
considerate friends went out and bor- 
rowed a few garments for her. 

In 1675 Charles II ordered every 
British coffee-house closed and even 
imprisoned several of the proprietors; 
but the institutions soon returned to life, 
and continued their downward career 
until, at least, the close of the seventeenth 
century. And thereby hangs a tale. 
For the more respectable writers and 
intellectuals, wishing a quiet resort, fell 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




o/ Salad for Supper 

Winter salads are a problem — Cox's Gelatine 
simplifies it. Here is something new: — 

A TUNA OR SALMON SALAD 

1 envelope COX'S INSTANT POWDERED GELATINE 
Va cup cold water 2 Vi cups boiling water 

V* cup lemon juice 1 large can Tuna Fish or Salmon 

Vi cup chopped pimentoes or olives 

Soak Gelatine in cold water; add boiling water and when dissolved 
add lemon juice and allow to cool, but not get cold. Pour layer into 
wet mold; when set, add layer of fish seasoned to taste, a layer of 
olives; pour in enough Gelatine to set mixture — and so on in layers 
until mold is filled. Chill, serve on lettuce with dressing. 

Unsweetened and unflavored, Cox's makes 
no end of nourishing and attractive foods, easy 
to prepare and dainty to serve. 

Nourishing soups, tempting savories and salads, 
delightful desserts are sure to succeed if Cox's 
Gelatine is used. 

Always have the little checkerboard box of 
Cox's Gelatine on hand, and send now for a free 
copy of the Cox Manual of Gelatine Cookery. 




THE COX GELATINE COMPANY 

Dept. D, 100 Hudson Street, New York 

x-x-:-»h-x->:-c-x-: 




What Tasty Tea! ! 



The hostess who serves Banquet Tea in- 
variably finds her guests enthusiastic over 
its delightful flavor. 

When you've once used it, you'll never buy 
any other kind. 



BANQUET TEA 



gives you three different blends to choose 
from! — 

"Tasty Tea for Every Taste" 

Banquet Blend, a very popular blend of green and 
black tea, packed in red canister. Banquet India and 
Ceylon Tea with other choice growths, in green can- 
ister. And Banquet Orange Pekoe in orange 
canister. 

Scientifically blended to bring out all the strength 
and flavor — Banquet Tea comes to you with ail 
nature's goodness. You'll find it the most economical 
tea to use because it takes less. 

Sold in convenient pounds, halves and quarters* 
If your dealer can't supply you, write direct to us. 

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, U, S. A. 

, Importers and Packers 



mm 



Our BEE-BRAND 

Manual of Cookery can 
now be secured for 50c 
in coin or stamps. Send 
also for free booklets 
on Spices, Tea and 
Flavoring Extracts. 




Buv advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
303 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

Table Crockery, 
China and Glass 

For Thanksgiving 




DINNER SETS or CHINA DINNER WARE 

of all grades taken from our large assort- 
ment of Stock patterns enable the pur- 
chaser to select just the articles desired 
without being obliged to purchase the 
articles not required at the time, with 
the added advantage of being able to 
obtain matchings or additional pieces 
of the same pattern later on. 

Pyrex Cooking Glassware 

Clean, transparent Glass to bake in ! 

Ware that oven heat cannot break ! 



Casseroles 
Bread Pans 



Pie Plates 
Ramekins Bakers, etc. 

Pyrex Gift Set — consisting of eleven items for 
$6.00, packed in£a neat, box, is especially 



attractive. 




TURKEY PLATTERS 

Large and extraordinarily large platters, on 
which to serve the national bird or joint of beef; 
also plates with same border as platter and 
game centers. 

Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

CROCKERY, CHINA and GLASS 
33 Franklin Street - - Boston 

Near Washington and Summer Streets 



into the practice of renting exclusively 
a coffee-house for a night, and then for a 
week or a month, until, unwittingly, 
certain of such gathering-places became 
almost private, and all who were not of 
the elect learned to stay away. And 
thus originated the famous London clubs, 
those assemblies of eighteenth-century 
master-minds, such as Addison and Steele, 
Johnson and his faithful Boswell, Garrick 
the actor, Reynolds the painter, and 
poor, vanity-stricken, ugly, lovable 
Goldsmith. 

What poems, what plays, what essays, 
came from those rooms so fragrant with 
the aroma of hot coffee! And all this 
because some whirling dervish began to 
swallow boiled "coal" in the year 1500. 

Nowadays most of our Mocha and 
Java come from Brazil, and an Amster- 
dam burgomaster named Wieser is respon- 
sible for that. For he it was who brought 
some plants to the Botanical Garden of 
his city, and their offspring were trans- 
ferred to the Paris Botanical Garden, 
whence the coffee-plant came to Mar- 
tinique in 1720. Many substitutes have 
been offered for the beverage; physi- 
cians have raised shrill cries of warning) 
against it; but during the last hundred] 
years the coffee-pot has steadily grown 
in favor in America, and its steaming 
contents may justly be called our national 
drink. 



Another good word fast going out on 
use is frugality. 

=Domestic Science^ 

Home-study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children 

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional 
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution 
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate 
Housekeepers," Caterers, etc. 

"The Profession of Home-making." 100 
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand 
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent 
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each. 

American School of Home Economics 
I (Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

304 



ADVERTISEMENTS 







JAe 

3'dh <f a Better Method. 




This company makes wooden dishes for the packaging of the bulk foods you 
get at the grocery and meat market. 

EMCO dishes are absolutely sanitary. They are also useful in the home. 

Suggest that your dealer use them. 

EMCO Clothespins and EMCO Toothpicks are guaranteed as to count 
and quality. Ask your dealer for them. 



ESCANABA MANUFACTURING COMPANY 

MANUFACTURERS 

ESCANABA, MICHIGAN 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

305 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Use 

^ TO ' 

flavor 







You want something different- 
something that will change 
and improve the everyday 
cakes, puddings, sauces. 

Try flavoring your favorite 
dessert or cake with 



MAPLEINE 

*Z6e Gofden 7 favor 



Use less than of an.'" < '^.her flavoring — 
its delicious, delicate flav r: will not cook or 
freeze out. 

TO MAKE INSTANT SYRUP 



! j 



Just dissolve granulated sugar in 
water and flavor with Mapleine. 
Mapleine contains no maple sugar, 
syrup nor sap, but produces a 
taste similar to maple. 

Grocers sell Mapleine 
2 oz. bottle 35c. Canada 50c. 

4c. stamp and trade mark from 
Mapleine carton will bring the 
Mapleine Cook Book of 200 
recipes. 

Crescent Mfg. Company 

323 Occidental Avenue 

Seattle, Wash. 



hot 




SEVEN-CENT MEALS $ P l t 50 p -rf 

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This 
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two 
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses. 

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago 



The Silver Lining 

A Thanksgiving Tale 

They sat on a shelf in the pantry-way cool. 

Said Pumpkin to Mince Pie, "You crusty old 
fool!" 

They squabbled and each of them thought him- 
self best, 

Till Pumpkin said, "Wait for Thanksgiving — 
the test. 

I'll bet you my pie plate that I'm eaten first; 

While you, sir, uneaten, with envy will burst." 

Thanksgiving Day came, and along with it, John, 
Who ate everything his keen eyes fell upon. 
"A piece of each one," said this lad to the pies; 
"And then I'll determine which one wins the 

prize." 
But Johnny, alas! was unable to tell, 
For Johnny felt suddenly, — not at all well. 

Those wicked, old pies had continued their 
fight, 

Till Johnny's poor tummy grew pained at the 
sight; ^ 

And Johnny said tartly, both pies were so bad, 

No worse ones than either could ever be had. 

But I think myself that young John was mis- 
taken. 

'Twas mixing his pies so, gave Johnny that 
achin'. 

— Ellen M. Ramsay. 



His Real Motive 

As the crowded car jolted and swayed, 
the stout woman standing up lurched 
against a seated passenger, tearing his 
newspaper and knocking his hat over his 
eyes. Immediately he rose and offered 
her his seat. 

" You are very kind, sir," she said, pant- 
ing for breath. 

"Not at all, madam," he replied. "It 
isn't kindness, it's merely self-defense." 



"Were you very sick with the 'flu,'| 
Rastus?" "Sick, sick! Man. Ah was 
so sick mos' ebery night Ah look in da1 
er casualty list for mah name." 
— W hiss-Bang (Boston Base Hospital). 



"When water becomes ice," asked th< 
teacher, "what is the great change thai 
takes place?" "The greatest change] 
ma'am," said the little boy, " is the change 
in price." 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

306 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





What You Can Do with an Orange 



Mrs. Knox Says: 

"Fresh Fruits are an essential of life. We should use them in some form 
every day. You can use fresh fruit or fruit juices to the greatest possible ad- 
vantage and economy if you combine them with pure, plain gelatine. For 
instance, here are four recipes for delightful desserts and salads you can make with 
orange juice and 



KNOX 



SPARKLING 

GELATINE 



Orange Dessert 



Orange Charlotte 



1 tablespoonful Knox Sparkling Gelatine 
£ cup cold water 

lj cups boiling water 
5 cupful sugar 

2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 
Juice of one orange 

Soak the gelatine in cold water ten minutes and dissolve 
in the boiling water. Add the sugar, lemon and orange 
juice; strain, pour into a wet mold and chill. 

Orange Cocoanut Custard Jelly 

By adding a custard made by cooking the yolks of 
two eggs and a cupful of milk until thick enough to coat 
a silver spoon, and a half cupful of grated cocoanut, just 
before the gelatine begins to set, and molding in wet 
custard cups — a Knox Orange Cocoanut Custard 
Jelly will be the result. 



By adding the well-beaten whites of two eggs to this 
jelly just before it sets, beating until light and frothy 
and chilling in a wet mold lined with lady fingers or 
stale cake, a delicious Knox Orange Charlotte is made. 

Orange Nut Salad 

By doubling the amount of lemon juice, adding one 
tablespoonful each of grated lemon and grated orange 
rind, one-half cupful of chopped nuts to the jelly and 
pouring into wet molds and serving on lettuce with 
mayonnaise or boiled salad dressing, makes a delicious 
Orange Nut Salad. 

NOTE: If the Acidulated package is used \ of the 
Lemon Flavoring may be used in place of the lemon 
juice in this salad recipe, saving the cost of lemons. 



Plain for general use 
easily prepared. 



KNOX 




"Whenever a recipe calls for 
Gelatine — it means KNOX" 

Send your grocer's name and address and receive, 
free, my Recipe Books "Dainty Desserts" and 
"Food Economy," which contain many new ideas 
on dessert and salad-making. Any domestic 
science teacher can have sufficient gelatine for her 
class, if she will write me on school stationery, 
stating quantity and when needed. 

KNOX GELATINE 

Mrs. Charles B. Knox 
107 Knox Ave. Johnstown, N. Y. 

NOTE: So many readers of American Cookery have 
asked why experts call Knox the "4-to-i" Gelatine 
that zee give the answer here: — "Because of its 
economy — each package makes 4 pints of jelly — 4 
times more than the flavored brands" 



This package contains an enve- 
lope of punt Lemon Flavor fur 
the convenience uf the busy 
housewife. 



KNQX 

SPARKLING 



*. , 







GElatiHE 



> CHARLES B.KNaXGELATMtCOUNC 



irfjM i ii: ; 



&m 




Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
307 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




wiiMmmmu,,,,; .;;,:;:■.: ]niil : :mn ti\ii!i^uiuW* m!i ' 






ON CRISP WAFFLES 

gives them that tempting, satisfying " real 
flavor from the maple grove " you like 
so well. Pure too — just an inimitable 
blend of cane and maple sugars boiled 
down to a wholesome syrup that you'll find 

As Necessary On The Table As 
The Sugar And The Cream 

Try it on hot biscuits — griddle cakes — 
brown bread — steamed bread and French 
toast. Use it for sweetening and flavoring 
puddings, cakes, frostings — and for mak- 
ing delicious fudge and candies. You'll, 
like it every way — every day. 

Put up in 4 convenient sizes. 

Ask your grocer for a can — now. 

New England Maple Syrup Co. 

BOSTON, MASS. 

Write for Uncle John's Recipes — Free 




"Cake 
Secrets" 

by 

Janet McKenzie 
Hill 



: 



For 10c 



Here is an authoritative book on the making 
of superbly fine cakes, pie crusts and pastries 
that every housewife, domestic science teacher 
and student should possess. Sent to any address, 
on receipt of 10 cents, by the makers of Swans 
Down Cake Flour — the old reliable product 
recommended and used by domestic science ex- 
perts everywhere. Makes lighter, whiter, finer 
cakes. 

IGLEHEART BROTHERS 

Established 1856 

EVANSVILLE, INDIANA 

Dept. AC 



Canny Finance 

A man from the north of Scotland was 
on a holiday in Glasgow. On Sunday 
evening he was walking along Argyll 
Street when he came upon a contingent 
of the Salvation Army, and a collection- 
bag was thrust in front of his nose. He 
dropped a penny into it. 

Turning Up Queen Street, he encoun- 
tered another contingent of the Salvation 
Army, and again a smiling "lass" held a 
collection-bag in front of him. 

"Na, na!" he said. "I gied a penny 
tae a squad o' your folk roon' the corner 
jist the noo." 

"Really?" said the lass. "That was 
very good of you. But, then, you can't 
do a good thing too often. And besides, 
you know, the Lord will repay you a 
hundredfold." 

" Aweel," saiu the cautious Scot, "we'll 
jist wait till the first transaction's 
feenished before we start the second." 

— Tid-Bits. 



Not 'Appily 

Minister: "But, Hooligan, can't you 
live with your wife without fighting?" 

Hooligan: "No, sir, I can't. Least- 
ways, not 'appily." — London Opinion. 



Up t^ the Court 

In Ohio a negro was arrested on a 
charge of horse theft and was duly 
indicted and brought to trial. When his 
day in court came he was taken before the 
judge, and the prosecuting attorney 
solemnly read the charge in the indict- 
ment to him. 

Then the prosecuting attorney put the 
question : " Are you guilty or not guilty ?" 

The negro rolled uneasily in his chair. 
"Well, boss," he finally said, "ain't dat 
the very thing we're about to try to find 
out?" — N. Y. Truth Seeker. 



Some folks figguhs^dey's hurtin' de 
church wen dey gits mad and quits, but 
dey wrong 'bout dat, — hit don' nevuh 
hurt de tree fur de rotten apples t' fall 
off! — Hambone's Meditations. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

308 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




FISH FLAKES 

Freshly caught cod and haddock, from the deep sea direct to our large 
airy seaside kitchens; carefully prepared, cooked and immediately sealed 
in parchment lined containers — made ready for your instant use. 

This delicious sea food 
gives the real "down 



Extremely economical 
no bones, no waste. 
'For ilb.ofBurnham 
6? Morrill Fish 
Flakes we require 
3 lbs of fresh fish; 
you receive only the 
white solid' meat. 




east" flavor to Cod' 

fish Cakes, Cream' 

ed Fish, Fish Hash, 

Fish Souffle and Fish 

Chowder. Try them 

with your favorite 

recipe. 



ORDER FROM YOUR GROCER 



« 



Good Eating* an interesting little book of recipes free on request 





Creamed Fish 



Codfish Balls 



BURNHAM & MORRILL CO. 

75 Water Street, Portland, Maine. 

Packing and specializing in State of Maine food products only— 'the best of their kind— including B & M 
Paris Sugar Corn, B& M Pork and Beans, B & M Clam Chowder, B & M Clams, B <2f M Lobster 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

309 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



SEDVICE TABLE WAGON 




IT 5EBVLS VOUB HOME. AND 
SAVtS YOUR TIME THAT 
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY 



Large Broad Wide Table 
Top — Removable Glass 
Service Tray — Double 
Drawer — Double 
Handles— Large Deep 
Under she Ives — "Scien- 
tifically Silent" Rubber 
Tired Swivel Wheels. 

A high grad« piece of furni- 
ture surpassing anything yet at- 
tempted for GENERAL UTILITY, 
ease of action, and absolute 
noiselessness. WRITE NOW 
KOR A DESCRIPTIVE PAMPHLET 

and Dealer s Name. 
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO. 

-T- 5041 Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III. 



ROBERTS 

Lightning Mixer 
Beats Everything 

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes 
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the 
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes 
malted milk and all drinks. 

Simple and Strong. Saves work — easy 
to clean. Most necessary household 
article. Used by 200,000 housewives. 

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT 

If your dealer does not carry this, we will 
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c. 
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c. 
Recipe book free with mixer. 

NATIONAL CO. i65 Oliver st., boston, mass. 



SALAD SECRETS 



100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat- 
less jrecipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c. 
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N. Y. 



Delicious Whipped Cream 

can be easily made from ordinary Table 
Cream by adding a few drops of 

Farrand's Cream Whip 

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer 
does not carry it. 

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science. 

THE CREAM WHIP CO. 

Cleveland, Ohio 



USED 

DAILY IN A 

MILLION 

HOMES 



Colburn's 

— j ©Red Label 

Spices 

TheA.ColburnCa, 
Philadelphia,U.SA 



The Graduate Housekeeper 

THE demand f©r expert assistance in private 
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range 
from $60 to $100 a month, or more, with 
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and 
an average of eight hours a day "on duty." 
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are 
given the same dignified social recognition as 
trained graduate nurses. 

Here is your opportunity — our new home- 
study course for professional housekeepers will 
teach you to become an expert in the selection 
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and 
food values, in marketing and household ac- 
counts, in the management of the cleaning, 
laundry work, mending, child care and training, 
— in all the manifold activities of the home. 
When you graduate we place you in a satis- 
factory position without charge. Some posi- 
tions are non-resident, others part-time. 

The training is based on our Household Engin- 
eering course, with much of our Home Economics 
and Lessons in Cooking courses required. 
Usually the work can be completed and diploma 
awarded in six months, though three years is 
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting 
and just what every housekeeper ought to have 
for her own home. 

To those who enroll this month, we are allow-i 
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are! 
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science 
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths, 
leather style. This contains our full Honu 
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household 
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illusi, 
trations, — a complete professional library. 

This is only one of several professional ana 
homemaker's courses included in our special offer 
Full details en request. 

COUPON 

American School of Home Economics 

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago 
Please give information about your Correspondent 
Course marked X 
....Graduate Housekeepers' Course. 

Institution Management Course. 

....Lunch Room Management Course. 
....Teaching of Domestic Science Course. 

Home Demonstrators' Course 

....Practical Nurse's Course. 
....Dietitian's Course. 
....Homemaker's Courses 



Name 

(Miss or Mrs.) 



Address. 



Information 

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference) 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

310 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





White House 

^\ ft* BRAND J nn 

Coffee and Teas 

The coming of National Prohibition will make 
a new and increased demand for both coffee 
and teas. They are wholesome and satisfy- 
ing, and their more general use will certainly 
be of material assistance in solving the great 
problems of the day. 

White House Coffee and Teas are supreme among 
their kind, and are sold in sealed air-tight packages 
that keep all goodness in, all badness out. 

DWINELL-WRIGHT COMPANY 

Principal Coffee Roasters Boston— Chicago 



Eat More Bread 



Bread is the most important food 
we eat. It furnishes abundant 
nourishment in readily digestible 
form. The fact that it never be- 
comes tiresome though eaten day 
after day, is proof of its natural 
food qualities. 

Eat plenty of bread made with 

FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST 





Tr*de Mark. Kegstertd. 

Gluten Flour, 

40% GLUTEN 

Guaranteed to comply in all respects »o 

•taodard requirements of U. S. Dept. of 

Agriculture. 

Manufactured by 

FAR WELL & SHINES 

Watertowp, N. Y. 



Z*V 



^ 



CrerffM's,3e««' 



GRANNY'S SECRET 

Gake Patter 




Send for 

Gift 
Catalog 

There is a difference in the lightness 

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long 

remembered— the best. Perhaps you have some friend who takes 

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is the 

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c. 

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden 

times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge 

parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no 

doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted 

and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty 

shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts 

which will be forwarded upon application. 

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I. 





IDEAL 
NUT CRACKER 

Cracks any nut with a twist o* 
the wrist. 

Brings out the kernels whole. 

Especially good for pecans, 
English walnuts, Brazil nuts, 
filberts and almonds. 

If your dealer does not carry the 
IDEAL write us 

Style 1. Plain nickel E f\ C 
plated . .JU 

Style 4. Highly polished 
nickel plated . 75 eta. 

Postage paid anywhere ii tie United Slates 

FRANK B.COOK CO. 

320 W. Madison St - Chicago 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

311 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Increase the Economy 




Ready 
For Any Appliance 



Work done electrically is done eco- 
nomically. For instance, it takes 
eight tons of coal to do the cooking - 
for which an electrical device would 
require only three tons. 

Yet there are electric chafing dishes, 
toasters, percolators, and various other 
electric fuel-saving appliances practically 
discarded in many homes because it is im- 
possible to attach them to a single socket 
without removing the lamp. The 



/AM IN 



two-w/v^t 




gives single sockets double outlets. 
Makes them double workers. 

You can attach any electric appliance 
without disturbing the light. At night, 
you can use appliance and light. Millions 
in successful use. Folder on request. 

Every Wired Home Needs Three Or More 
At Your Dealer's 



OR, »I£g EACH 
Made only by 

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO. 

Chicago 
New York San Francisco 




Jm£ Z, *' 2450 Sha ^ e Holder Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment 
vnirTwnW to w nse **$ . sha £ wlth Plu * screws into any electric socket 
your Two-Way Plug. Price 15 cents, without twisting the cord. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

312 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



K]g§G]ffl 



ICE CREAM RECIPE 

For 1 Gallon Ice Cream 

2 quarts milk 1 pint cream 

3 packages of NESNAH 

Heat two quarts of milk luke warm (re- 
move from stove) drop the NESNAH intoit 
and dissolve by stirring for one-half minute. 
Pour mixture into ice cream can and let it 
stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes 
until set : pack with ice and salt : freeze to a 
thick mush before adding cream, then con- 
tinue freezing. Crushed and sweetened fruit 
can be added with the cream. 



Six Pure Natural Flavors 

Chocolate Lemon Almond 

Raspberry Orange Vanilla 

Ask your Grocer for it 



CHR 

HANSEN'S 

LABORATORY 

MAKES 



N 

E 
S 

N 
A 



NESNAH 

MADE 

BY 

CHR 



NesnaHanseN 

A 

N 
S 
E 

N 



FOR 

MILK 
DESSERTS 

AND 
ICE CREAM 



MAKES 
DAINTY 

DELICIOUS 
MILK 

DESSERTS 



LEMON MILK SHERBET 

For 1 Gallon 

3 quarts milk 3 packages NESNAH 

Heat three quarts of milk luke warm, (re- 
move from stove) drop into it three pack- 
ages of LEMON NESNAH and stir quickly 
for one half minute to dissolve. Pour into 
the ice cream can and allow it to stand un- 
disturbed ten or fifteen minutes or until set. 
Pack with Ice and salt and freeze in the 
usual way. 



PREPARED BY 



The Junket Folks 

Box 2507 Little Falls, N. Y. 



Salt Mackerel 

CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER 

RIGHT FROM THE FISHING BOATS TO YOU 




s. rtivilLIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied 
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK 
E. DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE 
OCEAN FISH, choicer than any inland dealer could 
possibly furnish. 

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT, 
ccnding by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We 
i J REPAY express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish 
rre pure, appetizing and economical and we want YOU 
lo try some, payment subject to your approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious 
for breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine t nd will not 
spoil on your hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and eady for 
instant use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from 
meat, at a much lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. 
Hight fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are Doiled 
and packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. Th<=y 
come to you as the purest and safest lobsters you can buy 
and the meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from 
the shell yourself. 

FRIED CLAMS is a relishable, hearty dish, that your 
whole family will enjoy. No other flavor is just like that of 
clams, whether fried or in a chowder. 

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying, SHRIMP to 
cream on toast, CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled, 
SALMON ready to serve, SARDINES of all kinds, TUNNY 
for salad, SANDWICH FILLINGS and every good thing 
packed here or abroad you can get direct from us and keep 
light on your pantry shelf for regular or emergency use. 

With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES for 
preparing all our products. Write for it. Our list 
tells how each kind of fish is put up, with the 
delivered price, so you can choose just what ,.--'' 

you will enjoy most . Send the coupon for it ..--''' 

..-*"" Frank E. 



FRANK E. DAVIS CO. 

326 Central Wharf, 

Gloucester, .--"" 

Mass. ..--* "" 

..--'" Name 



..--'' Davis Co., 

..--'" 326 Central Wharf, 

•-*"" Gloucester, Mass. 

Please send me your latest 
Fish Price List. 



S rreet 



City . State 



The Milky Way to Economy 

52 Pages. Over 200 Recipes, from Soup to Candy 

A symposium on milk by Dr. E. V. McCallum, Dr. F. A. Woods 
and other emiment authorities. 

Reprints from Government Bulletins and from " Models for 
Children's Meals." BY MAIL 25c. 

Address: Gertrude Ford Daniel, 51 Oliver Street, Boston 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

313 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Breakfast Dishes 

with 

Cocoanut 

The flavor and food value of cocoanut is a 
welcome addition to many every-day foods. 

Cocoanut is especially good in hot 
breads, corn muffins, pancakes, waffles 
and coffee cakes. 

Dromedary Cocoanut has the full flavor 
and original moist tenderness of the fresh 
nut. 

The "Ever-Sealed" package keeps the 
unused portion in perfect condition so 
that there is no waste. It is economical 
to buy "Dromedary." 




COCOANUT AND COCOA MUFFINS 

2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs, beaten 2 teaspoons baking powder 

3 tablespoons sugar f cup of milk 1 ^up Dromedary Cocoanut 
3 tablespoons cocoa 2 cups flour 1 pinch salt 

Cream butter and sugar together; add cocoa and eggs and beat well. Add milk, 
flour sifted with baking powder and salt, then add cocoanut and mix thoroughly. Bake 
in well greased and floured muffin-pans. 



Every package contains Guarantee 

Our new book of Dromedary Novelt 
Recipes gives many unique uses of coco; 
nut in breakfast dishes, pies, candid 
cookies and desserts. Free on request; 




The HILLS BROTHERS Q 

Dept. G, 375 Washington St., New York 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

314 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



'ca's Gift 

to Hie 



myy. 








i « | 


^IfJIbBh - rf 




—■•" — — — 


■ • 








— is a sterilized cheese of 
surprising deliciousness, in 
a perfect container — a 
cheese that will keep with- 
out refrigeration in any 
season, any climate. 

Even to the interior provinces of India, Africa, 
China and Japan, often on camel back — 

ELKHORN CHEESE 

8 VARIETIES IN TINS 

is being sent in ever increasing quantities. 
Because no matter where or when you open a 
tin of Elkhorn Cheese it will be found as pure 
and fresh as on the day it was hermetically 
sealed in the parchment lined tin, for 
"THE FIRST HANDS TO TOUCH IT 
ARE YOURS." 



Each and every tin is just chuck-full of solid, 
wholesome goodness — of spreading con- 
sistency — and of a quality and flavor that 
never varies. 

No preservatives, no rind, no waste. Stock 
your pantry shelves with these 8 varieties. 



Kraft 
Pimento 
Chile 
Rarebit 



Swiss 

Camembert 
Roquefort 
Limburger 




J. L. KRAFT & BROS. COMPANY 

"Cheese purveyors to the world" 



Send 10c in stamps or coin for sample 
tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or 
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No Soaking j 
Always Ready! 
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MINUTE TAPIOCA CO, 

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Scald 2 cups milk in double boiler. Add 
l 1 * heaping tablespoonfuls of Minute Tapioca; 
cook 15 minutes. Beat yolks and whites of 2 eggs sep- 
arately. Divide >jj up sugar, putting ^2 in the milk; add the rest" 
to yolks with » teaspoonful salt. Pour not mixture slowly into yolks; mix 
well. Cook in double boiler till thick. Flavor with vanilla; pour into pudding 
dish. Cover with stiffly beaten whites of eggs and brown in oven. Serve cold. 

SERVE IT OFTEN 

MINUTE Tapioca Cream continues to be the chief fav- 
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Minute Tapioca may be thoroughly cooked in fifteen 
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red and blue package is always on your pantry shelf. 

Minute Gelatine always jells — it is measured for use. 
It, too, comes in a red and blue package which is easily 
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The Minute Cook Book has many receipts for the use of Minute 
Tapioca and Minute Gelatine. We shall gladly send it to you on request. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY, 111 E. Main St., Orange, Mass. 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 




BOSTON 



"I mention Stickney & Poor's Spices 
particularly because no other kind 
gives me such satisfactory results" 

so says Mrs. Experienced Housewif-, when writing out her favorite recipe for a friend — 

and there's thousands of others just like her in New England. 

The unvarying quality, strength and fine flavor assures a uniformity of results, a satisfying cer- 
tainty of success, that means much to every woman who prides herself upon her cooking. 

You, too, should insist upon Stickney & Poor seasonings and flavorings. Your grocer has the com- 
plete line — or should. Ask him for them — see that he sends you no other kind. 

Your co-operating servant, 

MUSTARDPOT 



Stickjvey & Poor Spice Coaupaivy 

1815 — Century Old — Century Honored — 1919 

Mustard-Spices BOSTON and HALIFAX Seasonings-Flavorings 

THE NATIONAL MUSTARD POT 





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Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way 

to enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present subscri- 
bers, who personally can vouch for the value of the publication. To make it an 
object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the following premiums: 

CONDITIONS . Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
— — i to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.50 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is clearly 
Stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or is not paid as stated. 

INDIVIDUAL INITIAL JELLY MOULDS 

Serve Eggs, Fish and Meats in Aspic; 
Coffee and Fruit Jelly; Pudding and other 
desserts with your initial letter raised on 
the top. Latest and daintiest novelty for 
the up-to-date hostess. To remove jelly 
take a needle and run it around inside of 
mould, then immerse in warm water; jelly 
will then come out in perfect condition. 
Be the first in your town to have these. 

_. . , iL • „ it xi_ u You cannot purchase them at the stores. 

This shows the jelly turned from the mould 

Set of six (6), any initial, sent postpaid for (1) new subscription. 





This shows mould 
(upside down) 



Cash Price 75 cents. 



"PATTY IRONS 



»9 




As illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky 
pates or timbales; delicate pastry cups for serv- 
ing hot or frozen dainties, creamed vegetables, 
salads, shell fish, ices, etc. Each set comes 
securely packed in an attractive box with recipes 
and full directions for use. Sent, postpaid, for 
one (1) new subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 



AN EGG SLICER SAVES TIME 
AND EGGS 

Does the work 
quicker and bet- 
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be done in any 
other way. One 
will be sent post- 
paid to any 
present subscri- 
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for securing and 
sending us one 
(1) new yearly 
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents. 




FRENCH ROLL BREAD PAN 




Best quality blued steel. 6 inches wide by 13 
long. One pan sent, prepaid, for one (1) new 
subscription. Cash price, 75 cents 

SEAMLESS VIENNA BREAD PAN 




Two of these pans sent, postpaid for one (1) 
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ms. 



new 
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HEAVY TIN BORDER MOULD 

Imported, Round, 6 inch 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price, 75 cents. 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 



Boston, Mass. 



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PREMIUMS 




LADD MIXER 

A specially made, clear Glass 
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home size, which is removable 
for use outside. Top highly 
nickeled and polished. By all 
means the best article yet made. 
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warrant it saves eggs. Sent, 
prepaid, for three (3) new sub- 
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LADD 



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Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new subscription. 
Cash price 75c. 



SATURN CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round steel ball — dust 
proof, nickel plated, war- 
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to 180 lbs. — takes present 
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made at any price Nick- 
eled. 

Sent, prepaid, for one 
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Cash price 75c. 

ROBERT'S 
LIGHTNING MIXER 

Tens of thousands of delighted 
housekeepers daily use this mix- 
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Sent, postpaid, for one (l)'new 
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TURK'S HEAD MOULD 

Tin — 2 quart 

Sent, prepaid, for one (1) new sub- 
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Smaller mould, 
four and a half 
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Large mould, 
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Sent, prepaid, for (1) one new subscription. Cash 
Price 75 cents. 





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usTy For Baking Corn Meal or other Muffins 



are the last word in muffin pans. These pans not only 
bake the muffins in a new and attractive shape, but owing 
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recipes and directions with each pan. 

Sent, postpaid, for two (2) subscriptions Cash Price $1.50. 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 




TTOW quickly dirt vanishes under the 
<*■ A foamy, bubbling suds of Ivory Soap. 
And how fresh and white the new-washed 
paint appears. No scratches nor spots nor 
yellow streaks — because Ivory contains no 
injurious free alkali nor any other harsh 
ingredient. Ivory cleans quickly and thor- 
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soapy soap — as pure and mild and high- 
grade as soap can be. 



IVORY SOAP . 



Use Ivory Soap for renovating the prized 
possessions that a harsh soap would ruin. 
For 40 years Ivory has been cleansing such 
things as Oriental rugs, old paintings, fine 
mahogany, enamel, gilded frames, statuary, 
silken hangings and valuable bric-a-brac, 
without injury either to material or finish. 

Before you start your housedeaning for Thanksgiving and the 
holidays, send for the free book Unusual Uses of Ivory Soap 1 ''. 
It tells how to dean everything, from wall paper to pianos, 
in the way that experts dean them. Address Dept. 1 '- K, 
The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, O. 




0£S'lBl«TO»'*> a '9lll 



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WHAT DO YOU CHARGE FOR BOARD, SIR? 

Painted by Edward V Brewer for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright by Cream of Wheat Co 



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321 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XXIV 



DECEMBER, 1919 



No. 5 



CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER 

PAGE 

PLAYHOUSES FOR CHILDREN. 111. . . Mary H. Northend 331 
FRENCH MILLINERY IN THE KITCHEN. 111. 

Blanche McManus 335 

NUTS FOR UNCLE CORNELIUS Ida R. Fargo 338 

CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS FROM EVERYWHERE 

Marion Brownneld 341 

THE DAY BEFORE CHRISTMAS IN NAPLES Mrs. I. N. Cutter 343 

CHRISTMAS CAKES FROM LONG AGO . . Elizabeth Kimball 345 

CHRISTMAS CAKES Alice Urquhart Fewell 347 

OUT OF THE BASEMENT Helen C. Goodspeed 349 

EDITORIALS 350 

SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone 
engravings of prepared dishes) 

Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 353 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN DECEMBER . . " " " 362 

MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS ... " " 363 

FOOD — AFTER THE WAR Florence M. LaGanke 364 

SMALL CONVENIENCES FOR HOUSEWIVES Hazel B. Stevens 365 
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES: — Serving Kitchen Meals — 
Keeping the Home Lights — Lemon Pie — ■ Fruit as a Saver of 
Sugar — ■ A Christmas Party — Use of Honey in Bread-making — 

The Quince — etc 367 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 371 

NEW BOOKS 378 

THE SILVER LINING 386 



$1.50 A YEAR Published Ten Times a Year 15c A Copy 

Foreign postage 40c additional 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter 

Copyright. 1919, by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave , Boston, Mass. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

322 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



The highest-prized gift 
is not always the 



highest priced 



Don't judge a gift by the money it costs, but rather by the pleasure it 
gives, or the value attached to it for its usefulness or goodness. 

Cook Books for instance: For 365 days in the year such a gift would be 
a perpetual reminder of your good wishes, because of the constant use 
made of it. 

MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK 

stands for all that is good and true in cooking. A big book of over 700 
pages, containing some 1,500 recipes, abundantly illustrated. But listen! 
bigness is not always goodness. In this case the recipes have been all 
cooked into a dead certainty, so that mistakes cannot be made, if directions 
are followed. 

A Splendid Gift for any one to make or receive. 

Bound in cloth, $2.50; by mail, $2.70 

SOME OTHER RORER BOOKS— NOT EXPENSIVE 

KEY TO SIMPLE COOKERY DAINTIES 

A new-plan cook book. Its very sim- Contains Appetizers. Canapes, Vegeta- 

plicity recommends it. Saves time and ble and Fruit Cocktails, Cakes, Candies, 
worry. Creamed Fruits, Desserts, Puddings, etc. 

Cloth, $1.25; by mail, $1.40 Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 



HOME CANDY MAKING 



CAKES, ICINGS AND FILLINGS 



Here is the book that shows how to 

make it, if you want good, wholesome A large number of enticing and valuable 

candy. recipes for cakes of all sorts. 

Cloth, 75 cents; by mail, 80 cents Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.10 

A catalogue of Mrs. Rorer's boo\s sent on request 



For sale by all Bookstores and Department Stores, or 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia 



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323 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



INDEX FOR DECEMBER 



Christmas Cakes .... 

Christmas Cakes from Long Ago 

Christmas Celebrations from Everywhere 

Day Before Christmas in Naples, The 

Editorials .... 

Food — After the War 

French Millinery in the Kitchen 

Home Ideas and Economies 

Menus 

New Books 

Nuts for Uncle Cornelius 

Out of the Basement . 

Playhouses for Children 

Silver Lining, The 

Small Conveniences for Housewives 



PAGE 

347 
345 
341 

343 
350 
364 
335 
367 
362, 363 
378 
338 
349 
331 
386 
365 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



Batter, Fritter 
Bowl, A Christmas 
Brittle, Peanut 

Buns, Philadelphia Butter. Ill 
Cake, Gala, with Frosting. Ill 
Canapes, Coquelin Style 
Caramels, Walnut. 111. 
Chicken a la King. Ill 
Corn Balls. 111. . 
Dressing, Salad 
Filet Mignon. 111. 
Fritters, Bacon 
Fritters, Parsnip . 
Fudge, Cherry- 
Goose, Roast. 111. . 



Bread, Whys in Baking 
Brittle, Puffed Rice 
Frosting, Glossy Boiled 
Fudge, Plain and Divinity 
Icing, Cooked and Uncooked 
Icing, Fondant 



356 
359 
360 
357 

359 < 
353 
329 ' 
354 
360 
356 
355 
356 -I 
355 

360 ] 
354 j; 



Grapes, Glace 

Pancakes, Chicken 

Pancakes, Potato . 

Pie, Apple. 111. 

Pralines, Creole 

Pudding, Christmas Plum. 111. 

Ring, Norwegian Birthday 

Roll, Jelly .... 

Salad, Apple-and-Celery. 111. 

Salad, Chicken-and-Pineapple. 

Sandwiches a l'lmperatrice 

Soup, Cream of Chicken, for ten plates 

Soup, Simple Tomato Bisque . 

Tarts, Jelly. Jll 



111. 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



374 
371 
376 
376 
372 
374 



Mincemeat ..... 
Mustard, Plain^and Stored . 
Oleomargarine compared with Butter 
Pie, Lemon, with Top Crust 
Sauce, Chocolate .... 
Sauce, Bittersweet 



360 
355 
361 
358 
361 
357 
358 
359 
356 
355 
354 
353 
353 
358 



371 
372 
372 
371 
372 
374 



We want representatives everywhere to take subscriptions for 
American Cookery. We have an attractive proposition to make 
those who will canvass their town; also to those who will secure a 
few names among their friends and acquaintances. Write us today. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BOSTON, MASS. 



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324 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






THE BOSTON COOKING 
SCHOOL COOK BOOK 

By^Fannie AIerritt Farmer 

FOR many years the acknowledged 
leader of all cook books, this New 
Edition contains in addition to its 
fund of general information, 2,117 re- 
cipes, all of which have been tested at 
Miss Farmer's Boston Cooking School; 
together with additional chapters on 
the Cold-Pack Method of Canning, on 
the Drying of Fruits and Vegetables, 
and on Food Values. 
J 33 illustrations. 600 pages. $2.25 net 

KITCHENETTE COOKERY 

By Anna Merritt East 

" T TERE the culinary art is trans- 
O lated into the simplified terms 
demanded by the requirements of 
modern city life. The young wife who 
studies the book carefully may be able 
to save herself and her husband from 
dining in restaurants. Aliss East, 
formerly the New Housekeeping Ed- 
itor of The Ladies' Home Journal, 
presents a book which will be of great 
value to all city dwellers." — -New 
York Sun. Illustrated. $1.25 net 

TABLE SERVICE 

By Lucy G. Allen 

A CLEAR, concise and yet com- 
prehensive exposition of the wait- 
ress' duties. 

Recommended by the American 
Library Association: — "Detailed di- 
rections on the duties of the waitress, 
including care of dining-room, and of 
the dishes, silver and brass, the re- 
moval of stains, directions for laying 
the table, etc." 

Fully illustrated. $1-35 net 

OUR COMPLETE CATALOG OF COOK 



COOKING FOR TWO 

A Handbook for Young Wives 
By Janet McKenzie Hill 

GIVES in simple and concise style 
those things that are essential 
to the proper selection and preparation 
of a reasonable variety of food for the 
family of two individuals. Menus for 
a week in each month of the year are 
included. 

" 'Cooking for Two,' is exactly what 
it purports to be — a handbook for 
young housekeepers. The bride who 
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making mistakes, either in ordering or 
cooking food supplies." — Woman's 
Home Companion. 

With 150 illustrations. $i-7S net 

THE PARTY BOOK 

Invaluable to Every Hostess 

By Winnifred Fales and 

Mary H. North end 

"TT contains a little of everything 
JL about parties from the invitations 
to the entertainment, including a good 
deal about refreshments." — New York 
Sun. 

With numerous illustrations from pho- 
tographs. $2.50 net 

SALADS, SANDWICHES AND 
CHAFING DISH DAINTIES 

By Janet McKenzie Hill 

"1% /TORE than a hundred different 
1VA varieties of salads among the 
recipes — salads made of fruit, of fish, 
of meat, of vegetables, made to look 
pretty in scores of different ways." — 
Washington Times. 

New Edition. Illustrated. $1.60 net 

BOOKS WILL BE MAILED ON REQUEST 



AT YOUR 
BOOKSTORE 



LITTLE, BROWN & CO., Publishers 



BOSTON 

MASS. 



I 












5 




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AMERICAN COOKERY 



ismggesrtton* for CJjrtetmag #tfts 

WOULD not many of your friends to whom you will make Christmas Gifts 
be more pleased with a year's subscription to AMERICAN COOKERY 
($1.50) than with any other thing of equal cost you could send them? 
The magazine will be of practical use to the recipient 365 days in the year 
and a constant and pleasant reminder of the 
donor. \ 

To make this gift more complete, we will I 
send the December number so as to be received j 
the day before Christmas, together with a card t 
reading as per cut herewith. j 

This card is printed in two colors on heavy ■ 
stock and makes a handsome souvenir. 



Etjrcmijl) tip ktntaru at 



1 



Amrriran (Hookrrg 

SHI br «rnt to gun fcr ant Qrsr rtnnmrartnc; nrilb, tijr 
Brrrmbrr \a*nt. J& & & & & 



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We will make a Christmas Present of a copy of the American 
Cook Book to every present subscriber who sends us two "Christmas 
Gift" subscriptions at $1.50 each. 

Practical and Useful Cookery Books 

By MRS. JANET M. HILL, Editor of American Cookery 

AMERICAN COOK BOOK $1.50 

This cook book deals with the matter in hand in a simple, concise manner, mainly with the 
cheaper food products. A cosmopolitan cook book. Illustrated. 

BOOK OF ENTREES $1.60 

Over 800 recipes which open a new field of cookery and furnish a solution of the problem 
of "left overs." There is also a chapter of menus which will be of great help in securing 
the best combination of dishes. Illustrated. 

CAKES, PASTRY AND DESSERT DISHES $1.60 

Mrs. Hill's latest book. Practical, trustworthy and up-to-date. 

CANNING, PRESERVING AND JELLY-MAKING $1.25 

Modern methods of canning and jelly-making have simplified and shortened preserving 
processes. In this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly-making are 
presented. 

COOKING FOR TWO $1.75 

Designed to give chiefly in simple and concise style those things that are essential to the 
proper selection and preparation of a reasonable variety of food for the family of two 
individuals. A handbook for young housekeepers. Used as text in many schools. 
Illustrated from photographs. 

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This complete manual of how to select, prepare, and serve food recognizes cookery as a 
necessary art. Recipes are for both simple and most formal occasions; each recipe is 
tested. 700 pages. Used as a text-book in many schools. Illustrated. 

SALADS, SANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES $1.60 

To the housewife who likes new and dainty ways of serving food, this book proves of 
great value. Illustrated. 

THE UP-TO-DATE WAITRESS $1.60 

A book giving the fullest and most valuable information on the care of the dining-room 
and pantry, the arrangement of the table, preparing and serving meals, preparing special 
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We will send any of the above books, postpaid, upon receipt of 
price; or, add one dollar ($1) to the price of any of the books and we 
will include a year's subscription for American Cookery. 

THE EOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 




IGOOD-BOOKSFORGIFTSI 

LADIES-IN-WAITING 

By Kate Douglas Wiggin 

"The author of Rebecca of Sunny brook Farm, A Cathedral Courtship, etc., brings to- 
gether five of her choicest short stories. All are good, bright with humor and enjoyable con- 
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AND I 

Frances Lester Warner 

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As Others 
See Her 

Mrs. A. Burnett - Smith 

A searching analysis of 
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in which their foibles and 
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The Tangled Threads: Just Tales Across the Years: Tales of Age 

In these three volumes of stories are concentrated all the qualities that have given "Just 
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STRONG HOURS 

By Maud Diver 

A brilliant and absorbing story by a novelist of 
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SCOTCH TWINS 

By Lucy Fitch Perkins 

The twins, who are this year almost as Scotch as 
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"A glorified Chatterbox" one librarian called this 
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ii 



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HOUGHTON -MIFFLIN- COMPANY 




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AMERICAN COOKERY 



•. 




■» 







Old Dutch quality insures 
thorough and economical 
cleaning with less work and 
better results. Makes every- 
thing in the kitchen— floor, 
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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

328 




Walnut Caramels 

Put two cups and one-half of granulated sugar, 
three-fourths a cup of red-label Karo, half a cup of 
butter, and one cup of rich milk over the fire to cook; 
stir constantly and, after the mixture has boiled three 
or four minutes, gradually add, while constantly stir- 
ring, one cup and a half more milk; add the milk very 
gradually, that the mixture may not stop boiling. 
Cook, stirring frequently, to 248° F. Add one cup of 
nut meats, broken in pieces, then one teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and turn into two brick-loaf bread pans. When 
nearly cold, unmold and cut in cubes. 



329 




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VOL. XXIV 



ery 



DECEMBER 



Playhouses for Children 

By Mary Harrod Northend 



Xo. 5 



NOTHING is dearer to a child's heart 
than a retreat which he can call 
absolutely his own. Happily for 
the boys and girls of the present day, the 
old-fashioned idea that any place was good 
enough to play in is no longer widely held. 
Parents are fast coming to realize the 
imperative need of play in a child's life, 
and the advisability of making adequate 
provision for it. For this purpose nothing 
is better adapted than the playhouse, and 
the constantly increasing number of these 
miniature abodes, designed and built 
expressly for the young people's enjoy- 
ment, speaks well for its popularity. 

Had such an innovation been suggested 
in our grandmothers' days, it would, 
doubtless, have been promptly frowned 
upon and made the basis for a lecture on 
spoiling children. As a matter of fact, 
however, it has been proved in any number 
of cases that, far from spoiling them, the 
playhouse is most beneficial in its effects. 

The pride of possessing a little domain of 
this sort is one of the greatest incentives to 
neatness and care that a child can possibly 
have. The responsibility of keeping it in 
order will work wonders in interesting 
little maids even in the most prosaic duties 
of housekeeping. And where is the boy 
who will not take a far greater pleasure in 
his carpentering, or electricity, or what- 
ever his favorite hobby may be, if he has a 
retreat where he can whittle and plane to 
his heart's content, or invite his chums to 
help try experiments, secure in the knowl- 
edge that he will have no aftermath of 
remonstrances to endure for having "clut- 
tered up" the house or disturbed the rest 
of the family? 



The matter of choosing a playhouse is 
not a difficult one, for there are many 
types from which to select the one best 
suited to the children's needs and the 
parental purse. Nowhere can one find 
more charming examples than in our own 
country. Some are strictly Colonial in 
design; others assume the form of a rustic 
log cabin; while on some of the large 
country estates more pretentious ones are 
to be found, although it is doubtful if 
they afford any more pleasure to their 
little owners than those simpler in design 
and equipment. 

A most interesting playhouse is found 
on the estate of Mr. Henry W. Shaw at 
Magnolia. It is of the cottage type, lo- 
cated at the very end of an old-fashioned 
garden, overlooking the extensive grounds. 




LOG PLAYHOUSE, DRAPER ESTATE, HOPEDALE 



331 



332 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Across the front is a covered veranda, 
equipped in the summer months as an 
outdoor living-room, where numerous jolly 
informal socials are held. 

The entrance door, ornamented with a 
tiny brass knocker, opens upon a diminu- 
tive hallway, from one side of which 
ascends a winding staircase. An old- 
time hall lantern hangs from the staircase 
beam and adds a touch of quaintness to a 
pretty whole. 

To the right opens the living-room, 
twenty feet long by ten feet wide, at one 
side of which is arranged a little open 
fireplace, in which tiny logs are always 
piled ready to be lighted. 

To the left of the hallway is the kitchen. 
Here is found a stove of medium size, 
wheie the young cooks are able to bake 
anything they desire to make, and along 
one side of the wall is a dresser, fitted 
with glass doors, which allow glimpses of 
the dainty Dutch china stored within. 
Directly opposite is a table and roomy 
closet, and neatly arranged on hooks are 
various pans and kettles. Rag mats cover 
the hard-wood floor, and their cheery 
colorings add a touch of brightness. 

The second floor contains a single room, 
fitted up by the owners for their own 



special use, and, as can be imagined, it is a 
typical girls' room. A dainty writing 
desk, fully equipped with writing ma- 
terials, occupies one end, while opposite 
is a roomy couch piled high with downy 
pillows. The walls are hung with posters 
of every description, collected by the girls 
at every opportunity. White muslin cur- 
tains shade the broad windows and a pretty 
art square covers the polished floor, while 
all about are arranged comfortable chairs. 

Not far from here, in the town of Man- 
chester, is the playhouse on the Hoar 
estate. It stands at the edge of a smooth- 
shaven lawn, nearly surrounded by flower- 
ing plants, and commands an extended 
view of the well-kept grounds. All about 
the rustic supports of the spacious en- 
trance porch, within which are arranged 
built-in seats, the vines of the rambler rose 
clamber, affording a contrasting bit of 
color to relieve the dull tones of the ex- 
terior finish. The interior consists of a 
single room, provided with all the com- 
forts of playdom, and here numerous 
parties, charades, and other amusements 
take place. 

At Nanepashemet, Massachusetts, on 
the estate of Mr. Frank E. Peabody, is the 
delightful playhouse designed after the 




THE SHAW PLAYHOUSE AT MAGNOLIA, MASS. 



CHILDREN'S PLAYHOUSES 



333 




THE PEABODY PLAYHOUSE AT NANEPASHEMET, MASS. 



fashion of an English cottage, and pro- 
vided with pretty latticed windows, which 
open outward. It is situated on the slope 
of a hill, not far from the main house, and 
the shingled finish of its exterior, stained 
dark red, with door and window trimmings 
of pure white, contrasts well with the 
varied greens of the surrounding lawns and 
shrubbery. 

The quaint entrance porch, almost 
hidden by the vines of the crimson rambler, 
gives access to a single large room, which 
comprises the interior completely equipped 
with tools and other appliances for manual 
training. The walls are sheathed in pine, 
and the floor of hard-wood is stained and 
polished. Cosy chairs are placed about, 
and two center tables furnish convenient 
receptacles for books, etc. 

From a discarded bath house was 
evolved the playhouse of a little Salem 
maid, and in its transformed state it is 
charming and artistic. It stands on a 
sloping bank that sweeps to the water's 



edge, and across the front extends a wide 
covered veranda. Broad paned windows 
line the house on all sides, and at the rear 
is a great door, with upper panel of glass. 
The interior is characterized by a great 
fireplace of brick, and in one corner, be- 
tween two window spaces, is a large piano, 
which furnishes music for the impromptu 
dances which generally terminate the day's 
frolic. 

At Beach Bluff on the Paine estate, is 
a fine Colonial building devoted to the 
children's use. It nestles in a nook 
among the apple trees; and at the front 
and sides are spacious lawns furnishing 
plenty of room for out-of-door sports. 
Parallel to the long piazza is a well-kept 
flower garden, which is a succession of 
bloom from early spring until late autumn. 

The exterior is painted white with dark 
green blinds, and the entrance porch, of 
pure Colonial design, is supported by 
stout pillars. The interior has been 
planned as a place where play life can be 



334 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




A TREE PLAYHOUSE 

enjoyed to the fullest extent, and there is 
no "best furniture" to be careful of, lest 
it be broken, no plaster walls to watch out 
not to mar, and no carpets to fall over. 
The furniture is of substantial oak, made 
to fit the children, and the walls are of 
plain studs and outside boarding, not even 
painted, while the floor is devoid of cover- 
ing of any sort. At one side of the main 
room is a great brick fireplace and above 
it extends a narrow mantel. 



Beyond the living-room, two smaller 
rooms open. One is used as a kitchen, 
where the girls^of the household can cook 
to their hearts' content, and the other is a 
workship for the boys, equipped with 
carpenter's bench and a full assortment of 
tools. 

Two attractive playhouses are located 
at Cohasset. One is the rendezvous of a 
family of boys, and the other is the posses- 
sion of the small daughter of Mr. Gay. 

The first one has exterior finish of 
shingles, left to weather, with white 
painted trim, and across the front and 
rear extend broad uncovered verandas. 
The interior consists of a single room, 
fitted with serviceable furniture, and 
numerous devices for boyish pleasures, and 
the loft above affords storage space for 
foot-balls, boxing-gloves, tennis racquets 
and net, baseball bats, etc. 

The second one is a four-room cottage, 
fully equipped for housekeeping on a 
small scale, with pretty latticed entrance 
porch, provided with built-in seats. 
Flowering shrubs have been planted about 
the front and sides, and beneath the 
windows are arranged window-boxes filled 
with pretty plants. 




THE PAINE PLAYHOUSE AT BEACH BLUFF, MASS. 




THE LOUP 



French Millinery in the Kitchen 

Full Dress for Sea-Food as the Fretsxh 
Chef Designs It 

By Blanche McManus 



PICTURE a fish with a rose in its 
mouth! It gave me a perfectly 
new sensation, the day I came into 
the salle a manger at the luncheon hour, as 
it gave me that open-mouth welcome 
peculiar to the fish family from behind the 
wind shield of a fine specimen of a la 
France rose that even then did not fill 
up the cavern. 

u C , est un beau loup — rCest ce pas" 
observed the garcon admiringly, as I 
stopped by the table on which it reposed. 
Yes, it was a magnificent example of this 
kingly race of Mediterranean finny tribes 
— the loup, thus called the wolf be- 
cause of its rapaciousness in the chase of 
its smaller briny subjects. It measured 
quite three feet in length and rested on its 
canape fully a foot and a half in height. 
These grand proportions naturally scorned 
the confines of the largest fish platter that 
the establishment possessed, so its huge 
bulk reposed on a linen-draped table, all 



to itself, and formed an imposing center- 
piece of dining-room decoration. 

Large fish with us in America are not 
usually considered so gastronomically 
choice, but the loup of southern French 
waters is an exception to all the rules 




Gr«a r n »'s n ect uo l+fxT 



335 



336 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Sprinfeleciunffo »— * 
minced Jiar& £>££,! 
Crossed loitrtujo' 

_£eai>es. 
" (-fu.ffsi3e) 




which otherwise govern sea-food and com- 
poses itself into as choice a plat de poisson, 
when of large size as when but a few 
inches in length. 

But it was the magnificence of its 
garniture that gave this superb fish the 
magic to draw the guests of the hotel 
around it to pay their compliments before 
seating themselves at their own tables. 
It formed an admirable pattern mode of 
the art of the French chef as applied to the 
preparation of food. 

This was but the full-dress rehearsal. 
The loup was there to be admired during 
the period of dejeuner, to whet our appe- 
tites, so to say, and was only to be served 
at dinner that night. Consequently it 
was fresh out of the water and not yet 
tried by fire, though bedecked modishly 
and wonderfully for the feast. Its rosy 
mouthpiece was but the crowning touch 
to its otherwise elaborate costume. 

The loup has an enormously large head, 
from which its body slopes away in wedge- 
like fashion to a ridiculously tiny bob- 
tail. In color it is an iridescent steely 
blue, with white about the head, and 
gills spread out like polished, miniature 
ivory fans, which from a fishy point of 
view were considered J very handsome 
indeed. 

There were other roses garlanded over 
the loupes backbone, pink, white, and red, 
looping over its plump sides as well as 
being scattered about like votive offerings 
all around the table. 



Alternating with the flowers were more 
materialistic garnitures, incidentally for 
ornament, but actually forming a part 
of the "fixings." These were lemons, 
peeled so meticulously, and with such 
calibrated regularity, that their yellow 
skins formed long, graceful spirals. One 
end of these spirals was left attached to 
the peeled lemons, and these in turn 
formed a rampart around the fish itself. 
The other ends of the golden spiral stair- 
way (if one may be permitted to grow 
poetic) were carried up the shiny flanks of 
the loup and held in place by slices of 
lemon, which buttoned themselves, as it 
were, down the generous backbone. It 
was a chef-d'oeuvre of the painstaking 
care that a French cook only can be 
counted to bestow upon cuisine millinery. 

This slice of lemon had its thin rim of 
skin still green; indeed, the lemon, or 
citron as the French call it, is most often 
used thus, its cooking flavor being con- 
sidered more delicate. It was divided into 
quarters, one of which was heaped up with 
minced beet-root, another with minced 
carrots, a third with chopped olives, and 
the fourth with minced, hard-boiled eggs. 
On top of each was a thin slice of a red 
radish and as many as five green peas 
posed in the center of the slice of lemon, 
which joined up the four quarters. Each 
slice was then powdered with a dust of 
herbs — parsley, thyme, and estragon. 

I have gone thus into details, because 
this was a particular example of culinary 
art, only to be compared with a miniature 
in the art of the painter. It was con- 
ceived with a painstaking minutiae that 




A PLAT OF MOULES 



FRENCH MILLINERY IN THE KITCHEN 



337 



was both amusing and interesting, and 
represented the result of some hours' 
labor — and only to be looked at. For 
this reason I have thought that others 
should see this picture of a full-dress 
fish-function. Hence this true big-fish 
story. 

This culinary fashion display took place 
in just an ordinary country resort hotel of 
France, but an establishment by no means 
of the rank of those that are classed as 
"Palaces." A hotel in France has re- 
ceived its highest patent of hotel nobility 
when it placards the word "Palace" be- 
fore its legitimate baptismal name and 
henceforth blooms forth in the classifica- 
tion of five stars. This hotel of the big 
loup, however, is not of this class, but one 
where, in these days of mountainous 
living charges, en pension terms may still 
be had for twelve or fourteen francs a 
day, which at the present rates of dollar 
exchange in this year of Peace and Con- 
cord (sic) is less than a dollar and a half 
at the low figure. 

That night for dinner we ate the loup, 
boiled, with a white wine sauce, for all 
big loups are boiled when served up. 
It proved delicious and was decidedly 
not a case of the dress making the fish. 
It was quite the star of the performance 
that its rose-decked mouth had promised. 
Americans will remark that it was not 
resting on a bed of ice awaiting the torture 
of the boiling process. The French never 
freeze fish when it can be got locally near to 
where it is caught, or even farther away. 
The French cordon bleu will tell you that 
extreme cold is as bad for fish flesh as 
extreme heat. The gourmet declares that 
the merest chilling of fish destroys its 
sea-food flavor immediately and renders 
it almost tasteless. For this reason, too, 
oysters are not served on a cushion of 
cracked ice. The French are right, par- 
ticularly when the fish comes directly out 
of the sea before our eyes, as this did. 
When it comes from the water it is ready 
to be eaten. Why freeze, or even chill, 
its marrow? 

There was another opening day in sea- 



food styles when a big, red langouste 
played the role of the chef's mannequin. 
The langouste belongs to that family of 
Crustaceans, which embraces also the 
lobster and the prawn, but is much more 
meaty than the former, also more tender. 
It resembles a lobster deprived of its 
weapons, as it is minus the two large, 
red front nippers. Instead, it has two 
rows of smaller claws that one may crack 
readily with the fingers and extract a 
delicate sort of a fishy marrow on the end 
of a two-tined fork. 

This particular langouste, though of 
magnificent proportions, could still be 
accommodated upon the hotel's most 
extensive platter. There was no dress 
rehearsal for it as in the case of the loup. 
It was brought to the table ready to be 
served and eaten as the first course of 
dejeuner. It appeared in full-dress re- 
galia; ruddy and cold, boiled, rearing 
proudly its two long attenna, to each of 
which was attached a streamer of blue 
ribbon, which, like a pair of reins, checked 
up its head and was carried back and 
tied in a bunchy bow around its tail. 

The meat had been taken out and the 
shell left intact and neatly closed up again. 
The meat was then sliced in strips about 
three inches long and laid in a row down 
the langouste } s back. Over the slices 
were sprinkled fine-minced, hard-boiled 
eggs. The French chef greatly uses eggs 
in minced form as a garnish, though he 
may sometimes go to the other extreme 
and serve them whole; rarely, though, is 
there any juste milieu between these two 
methods. 

The finishing touch to each slice of the 
langouste meat was two, small, fresh- 
gathered, pointed estragon leaves, the 
whole powdered over with chopped as- 
sorted herbs. As a framing, around the 
rim of the platter was a wreath of green 
herbs, alternating with rows of black and 
green olives, the black olives, large and 
wrinkled and briny, the green, of the 
picholine variety, smaller and nearly cres- 
cent-shaped. 

With the langouste was served an 



338 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



olive oil mayonnaise, of the virgin oil of 
Old Provence, tinted a salmon pink with 
the juice of fresh tomatoes, giving both a 
unique and colorful flavor. 

Another example of food fashions as 
designed in France: This time it is the 
plain, plebeian moule or mussel, which in 
contrast to their humble family history are 
almost invariably dressed up in the 
chic-est of fashions. The moule may 
make a plat which ranks very high among 
the recherche culinary chef (Tceuvres of 

Concluded 



France. Especially is this so on the 
Mediterranean coast, where it has attained 
a high popularity with both gourmets 
and gourmands. The sea moules, or mus- 
sels, are boiled, in the process of which the 
purple shells burst open and display the 
brilliant orange-colored meat behind the 
folding doors of its house in which it was 
born and has always lived. There is no 
such thing known as shelling a moule, 
if one wishes to preserve its flavor, at 
least not before they are cooked. 
on page 361 



Nuts for Uncle Cornelius 

By Ida R. Fago 



ABBIE ANDREWS was enjoying 
a week-end away from the pol- 
ished primness of a certain law 
office in Portland, where she spent most 
of her time as expert stenographer — a 
week-end down at Aunt Janie's, always 
an enjoyable event to anticipate, as 
any one who visited at Champoeg could 
testify. Aunt Janie lived at Champoeg, 
and Champoeg was almost, but not quite, 
a suburb of Portland. 

On this particular evening Abbie sat, 
Turk fashion, before a dancing fire in the 
monstrous fireplace built by the Master 
of the House out of rude stones found 
on the river's bank, such a fireplace as 
might cost a fabulous sum tucked into 
some places one might mention. But 
at Aunt Janie's it was merely a part of a 
big hospitable house. And it hadn't cost 
very much because Uncle Cornelius 
Judd (Aunt Janie's jovial mate) had 
buill it himself. And the materials were 
a part of his very own farm. Truly, 
luxury may be a matter of locality — 
plus a certain amount of intelligent 
industry; but one needs to discover the 
particular luxury, perhaps, which is 
indigenous to one's own particular lo- 
cality. Why not? However this may 
be, Abbie was certainly enjoying the 
firelight, and looking her prettiest in a 



little gingham gown that subtracted a 
quota of years and left her all too girlish, 
any one would guess, to be the expert 
stenographer of a prominent city law firm. 

"That little gingham gown is the most 
becoming thing you've got," asserted 
Aunt Janie on one occasion. 

"Why — it's the simplest little dress," 
objected Abbie. 

"Maybe that's the reason," shrewdly 
suggested Aunt Janie. And then, "It's 
just like your Uncle 'Nelius says, 'cording 
to my way of thinking, a woman ain't 
half as pretty dolled up for a party as she 
is in a pretty-planned house dress." 

"Why — !" wondered Abbie Andrews, 
but she put the thought away for future 
consideration. 

And, it is certain, any one would admit, 
who saw Abbie sitting there in the fire- 
light, Turk fashion, a flush on her cheeks, 
her brown braids wound about her head, 
and her nimble fingers busy cracking 
hazelnuts, that she was a pretty girl. 
Perhaps a pretty house dress had some- 
thing to do with it. It often does. 

"What you cracking 'em for?" 

Cousin John, coming in from outside, 
dropped with a sort of lazy comfort into 
a big rocker, and leaning over, elbows on 
his knees, peered into the bowl of plump 
hazelnut meats. 



NUTS FOR UNCLE CORNELIUS 



339 



"Nut cake," grinned Abbie. 

"Too many," answered John. 

Evidently Aunt Janie, having no 
daughters, had trained up her sons to 
help in the house during the idle hours 
of Oregon's long, rainy days. Evidently 
John knew that a bowlful of hazelnut 
meats were all too many for an ordinary 
nut cake. 

Cousin Abbie's eyes twinkled. 

"Just watch," she said. 

With a long-handled poker and a 
long-handled shovel, she deftly lifted 
from a bed of ashes under a bed of coals 
a row of perfectly roasted potatoes; as 
perfectly roasted as potatoes may be 
when cooked in the ashes. And, very 
likely since the world began, there are 
those who believe no better way of 
cooking potatoes has ever been invented, 
be it a bonfire outdoors or a big fireplace 
where the cooking is done. 

"Gee!" sniffed Cousin John. "Just 
call me. I'm ready for supper any 
time." 

"Wait a minute," instructed Abbie. 

No more than a minute she was gone, 
but in that minute one heard the whir 
of the kitchen food grinder. Then Abbie 
was back with a spoon, a clean bowl, a 
little salt, a bit of butter, and a cup of 
ground-up hazelnut meats. Picking up 
a hot potato with a well-folded tea-towel, 
she proceeded carefully to dust it of 
ashes, then broke it apart, scooped the 
fluffy white contents into the clean bowl, 
added salt, butter, and a spoonful of the 
ground nut meats. This done, she refilled 
the potato skins, pressed the parts to- 
gether again, and deposited the finished 
potato on the well-swept hearth in front 
of the hot fire. It was all done so swiftly 
that Cousin John sat with his mouth 
agape and his question unasked when the 
task was finished. 

And then — "Well, I vum!" is what he 
said. And not another word till a row 
of nutty-meated potatoes stood heating 
before the fire. Abbie Andrews had the 
nimble fingers one needs who succeeds 
best in the art of cookery. 



"Know what you make me think of?" 
questioned John. 

"What?" People liked Abbie because 
she always played up to their queries. 

"A song mother sings, used to sing 

it to us kids when we were little shavers, 

I remember. 

'"She can make a cherry pie, 
Quick's a cat can wink his eye.' 

Judging by the way you fill those pota- 
toes, that's about the time you'd take to 
make a cherry pie. Or any other kind." 

John chuckled. 

" Nutty potatoes. That's a new one on 
me. But I'll bet a dollar they're good." 

"They are," smiled Aunt Janie, coming 
into the room. "Abbie and I tried 'em 
out the other night, while you men- 
folk were at lodge. Now come on to 
supper. It's ready." 

Deftly John swept the hot potatoes into 
the dish his mother handed him. 

"And we're all ready for it," he an- 
nounced. "And as hungry as a penful 
of pigs." 

Every one laughed. Because every one 
was light-hearted and laughter was in the 
air, and good-humor as contagious as 
chicken pox. Why not? 

"Nutty potatoes and nut cake — ■" 
questioned John presently, turning again 
toward his cousin as the family sat 
about the supper table. "Anything else 
you can do with nuts?" 

" Toast 'em," affirmed Abbie. 

(Somehow, Abbie Andrews never 
wasted words. It gave a piquancy to 
her speech. " It is the business-woman 
habit," she once explained to a comment- 
ing friend. " A girl can never succeed 
in business if she talks too much.") 

"Toast 'em — ?" echoed the family. 

"Put the nuts in a shallow dripping 
pan with a bit of butter, or butter sub- 
stitute, sprinkle with salt, and toast in 
a hot oven. It doesn't take long and they 
are delicious. I've tried hazelnuts and 
walnuts. Maybe other kinds would be 
good, too." 

"Tell them about your hazelnut loaf," 
said Aunt Janie. "My men-folks are 



340 AMERICAN COOKERY 

always interested in cookery," proudly, tented anyhow. And anywhere. She's 

"Most men ain't." that kind," attested John. But the 

"Then they don't know which side smile in his eyes was the kind of a smile 

their bread is buttered on," chuckled mothers love to see. 

Uncle Cornelius. "You boys stop your arguing," chided 

Abbie turned upon him questioning Aunt Janie. 

eyes, big, brown, and curious. Just now, "And give Abbie a chance to analyze 

especially curious. Hazelnut Loaf," added her husband. 

"If nobody takes any interest in your "Well — !" said Abbie. She drew a 

job, you're apt to get tired on it," ex- long breath, by way of beginning. "It 

plained the Man of the House. "Pretty goes this way: 

apt to grow discontented, now wouldn't "One cup of hazelnuts, ground up in 

you? Maybe, be a sort of a slacker, the food chopper, either toasted or not; 

'Less you loved 'art for art's sake.'" two cups of bread crumbs, rolled slightly; 

Twinkles danced across Cornelius Judd's one large cup of skim milk, plus a good 

eyes. "If a body is an expert, a body lump of butter; one teaspoonful of salt, 

likes to know it. Likes to have other good sprinkle of pepper, one teaspoonful 

folks know it, too. Likes to be told of it, of baking powder; two eggs; mix thor- 

come now'n then. Likes to be appre- oughly. Pour into a greased tin and 

ciated, some'ut. Noticed, sort of." bake about half an hour." 

"Your uncle likes to talk," chided "Sounds good," commented John. 

Aunt Janie. "When you going to make it, Abbie?" 

"More'n talk to what I'm saying," queried Uncle Cornelius, 

asseverated the big, jovial, elderly man. "Tomorrow," said Abbie Andrews. 

"Sound sense. Most men don't know it. Aunt Janie nodded assent, and turned to 

Cookery is a woman's job. Specially her men-folks. 

home cookery. Big job, too. Most men, "Aren't you glad now that you took 
as I said, don't know it, they think their that half-day holiday I insisted on? — to 
own job the only thing on earth, and they gather hazelnuts? — They went across the 
want their women-folk to think the same river to the hills, Abbie. The hazel- 
thing — they sort of like to talk about nuts were thick this year. Plenty for the 
the big things they are doing, and never chipmunks and men-folks, too. I told 
take the time to be really interested in 'em the farm wouldn't run off if they took 
what their women-folk are having to do. a little rest. The haying was over and 
So their women-folk get dissatisfied, the Crawfords hadn't come on yet." 
and want to do something men consider "Peaches," interpolated John, looking 
real work. So here comes the war and at his cousin. "Early Crawfords; the 
gives women a chance to gobble up the new acreage is all set out to Early Craw- 
men-jobs. And, by Jove, they do it. fords." 

Do it good, too. And now a lot of the "I reckon Abbie knows Early Craw- 
women want to keep on with men-jobs, fords is peaches," chuckled John's father, 
cause they've got to thinking — same's And then his glance went round to his 
their men-folk — -that men-jobs is the only wife. " I 'member that day the boys went 
kind of worthwhile work that the world nutting. I wa'n't to home. They 'lowed 
holds. Men to blame, too, say I." I wouldn't stand for any gallivanting 

A ripple of laughter went round the about the country, letting farm work go; 

table. l?ut ma, here, did want them nuts. 

"Dad's theory," drawled Cousin John. She was a little anxious when I hove in 

"Look what a contented woman it has and the boys not home. I see that, 

made out of your mother," verified Dad. But, pshaw! Might 'a' known I wouldn't 

"Mother — ? Oh, mother'd be con- made a fuss. I always did agree to 'Ail 



CHRISTMAS IDEAS AND CELEBRATIONS 



341 



work and no play makes Jack a dull 
boy.' And what's a belief good for if a 
body don't live up to it?" 

Father Judd's eyes twinkled around 
the table. He always had a bit of phi- 
losophy for every occasion; or, if need 
be, he could make an occasion to fit his 



bit of philosophy. And Abbie thor- 
oughly enjoyed it. 

"Makes Jill a dull girl, too," she added. 
"Next year Aunt Janie and I are going 
to lay off and go nutting, too. Aren't 
we, Aunt Janie?" 

"We are," said Aunt Janie Judd. 



Christmas Ideas and Celebrations from 

Everywhere 

By Marion Brownfield 



MANY of us would like new and 
effective ways of celebrating 
Christmas, befitting the new order 
of peace and good-will that has come to 
mankind. Sometimes, in the last few 
decades, it has been with Christmas cele- 
brations, a case of 

"The world is too much with us: late and soon 
Getting and spending we lay waste our powers." 

Instead of so much gift-giving, a revival 
of some of the beautiful and dignified old- 
time ceremonies that make the significance 
of the season more vivid might have our 
consideration. The various customs of 
foreign lands, at different periods of 
history, perhaps will suggest new ways 
to us of borrowing or adapting an idea that 
will celebrate Christmas this year, either 
at home, or in public places, with such 
picturesque beauty that a new spirit of 
service, rather than gift-barter, will appeal 
to us. 

Christmas, as the holiday that cele- 
brates the nativity of Christ, was orig- 
inally celebrated in very early spring, but 
as most all the nations of medieval Europe 
regarded the winter solstice as the turning- 
point of the year, when nature began a 
renewed life, the custom gradually de- 
veloped of celebrating this Christian holi- 
day in the period during what is now the 
last of December and the first of January. 

In Norway, the winter solstice was 
the time for holding a Yule feast origi- 
nally in celebration of a pagan god, and 



among the Scandinavians, the Yule log 
and the Yule cake were among the ob- 
servances of Yuletide, that was a season of 
rejoicing and visiting. 

In England, Christmas celebrations of 
three or four hundred years ago charm 
us with their quaint and simple jollity. 
The English always remembered every 
one from their neighbors down to their 
servants. "In the country, an English 
gentleman always invited his neighbors and 
tenants to his great hall at daybreak on 
Christmas morning. There they were 
regaled upon toast, sugar, nutmeg and 
good old Cheshire cheese." The house 
was decked with ivy and other greens. 

Under the title of a "Christmas box," 
the general English custom, which still 
prevails to some extent, a small gift of 
money was given to postmen and other 
delivery men the day after Christmas, 
which was called "Boxing Day." 

In 1100 Henry I. granted a charter to 
London, making it a city, and the Christ- 
mas celebration, it is recorded, consisted 
of a feast for rich and poor. The people 
gathered in the streets around blazing 
bonfires singing and dancing, after feasting 
upon oxen, deer, ale, and mead. The 
wassail bowl, spoken of so often in many 
books describing England at the time of 
the crusades, was another evidence of the 
ever-ready hospitality that the English 
offered to all comers. 

Christmas music in England was de- 



342 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



lightful carols sung on Christmas Eve, 
and sometimes early Christmas morning, 
on the doorsteps by bands of children and 
young folks called "waits," who were re- 
warded at the end of the program with 
money or gifts, or an invitation to enter and 
feast. 

Many of the celebrations, strange as it 
may seem, consisted of superstitious test- 
ings of fortune, similar to those now prac- 
ticed at Halloween. Attempts to forecast 
love, marriage, and good luck for the 
household, during the coming year, were 
all among the entertainments of the season 
in old-time England. An old rhyme that 
has come down to us, which prophesies in 
this fashion, is this one — 

A MONDAY1CHRISTMAS 

"If Christmas day on Monday be, 
A great winter that year you'll see 
And full of winds both loud and shrill; 
But in summer, truth to tell, 
High winds shall there be, and strong, 
Full of tempests lasting long, 
While battles, they shall multiply 
And great plenty of beasts shall die. 
They that be born that day, I ween, 
They shall be strong each one and keen — " 

The origin of the Christmas tree has 
never been fully determined. Some de- 
clare it Norse, because in the Northern 
mythology a certain "world-tree" typified 
existence; others declare the Christmas 
tree was used to celebrate the Roman 
saturnalia, a December festival for all 
classes, and was imported into Germany 
with the conquering legions of Drusus. 
But it is interesting to know that the 
Christmas tree "with its dependent toys 
and mannikins is distinctly portrayed by 
Virgil," the Roman poet. The symbolism 
of the evergreen tree is interpreted "with 
its lights and fruits, the symbol of 
Christ who was the beginning of new life, 



in the midst of wintry darkness of hea- 
thendom, and the immortality of life." 
The candlelights also symbolized the 
light that came into the world with the 
birth of Christ. The gold thread that is 
entwined as decoration on some Christmas 
trees is called lametta and represents 
the golden locks of the Christ-child. 
The star is the emblem of the Star in the 
East that guided the shepherds of Bethle- 
hem. 

In Norway, sheaves of wheat, to tie on 
shutters or roof-poles to feed the birds, 
are sold on the streets just as holly wreaths 
are sold in the United States. Isn't this 
a thoughtful decoration for the home? 

In Brazil, Christmas is celebrated in the 
home in a fashion that brings to mind the 
Three Wise Men. An altar — sometimes 
the staircase — ■ is covered with fine linen. 
On the top is placed the Christ-child in a 
cradle, and below are placed the choicest 
gifts of the soil, "to show that the first 
fruits and best fruits should be His." 
Spices and myrrh, clusters of all kinds of 
fruit and rice and other grains deck this 
altar. The church steps are covered 
with spice leaves to make the steps fra- 
grant when walked upon, and at night 
there is a Christmas celebration | with 
— fireworks ! 

Perhaps, with our own new custom of 
Christmas trees in public squares or parks 
in some of our large cities, where some 
great singer freely gives beautiful music 
appropriate to the season, we are not far 
away from such a celebration with fire- 
works, strange as the idea may seem, at 
first, for fireworks lighting the heavens 
may easily take the form of Christmas 
symbols, and surely such a celebration is 
one that many — rich and poor — can 
enjoy! 




The Day Before Christmas in Naples 

By Mrs. I. N. Cutter 

LOOKING over Naples from her high lighted brazier. Here and there, one 
places on this twenty-fourth day of comes upon a mass of feathers left from a 
December, one sees no smoke to recently prepared fowl — tomorrow's din- 
obscure her picturesqueness, for fires, ner, and from an upper window a woman 
excepting of charcoal, are infrequent, empties into the street such leaves as may 
Mosses are green on ridges; flowers and not be included in the salad. On every 
grasses, self-sown, nod on each ledge or hand is refuse, picturesqueness, and good 
peep from crevices of the old stucco walls of cheer. 

stained yellow or faded pink; and in It is in the side streets of the lower city, 
gardens the December crop of oranges and which belong to vanishing Naples, that 
mandarins hangs golden among glossy the scenes are most distinctive. Here, 
leaves. The morning has been sunny, where the narrow streets are without side- 
but just now the sky is hidden, the sun walks and the cautious Neapolitan donkeys, 
sending a single shaft of light through a carrying bulging panniers or drawing tiny 
break in the clouds, making a line of iri- carts, divide the way with foot passengers, 
descent salmon on a silver sea, while one finds a dense crowd. What delightful 
Capri has become but a cloud on the patches of color the fruit and vegetable 
horizon and Vesuvius, gray-veiled, looks stalls make in the dark streets! Oranges, 
more than ever mysterious. mandarins, lemons, red and yellow apples, 
Up from the city, in violent contrast are arranged in gay pyramids; and there 
to nature's quiet, comes a volume of are tawny potatoes, vigorous-hued car- 
sound formed of the rattle of wheels, the rots, sheaths of vivid green beans, red 
cracking of whips, the clatter of hoofs, the cabbages, borders of purple cauliflowers, 
harsh cries of drivers, the lusty voices of festoons of miniature yellow tomatoes and 
hawkers, the music of street musicians, of peppers; and among the marketers 
the scolding of women, the chatter of moves the "Onion Boy," wearing long 
children, — strident, vital, intensely hu- garlands of gold, silver, bronze, and rose, 
man, — -where but in Naples can its like all made from gleaming onions. Here, 
be heard? And it draws one down to the too, are hand-carts piled with nuts, and 
streets to mingle, with a sense of exhilara- donkey carts filled with huge pine cones 
tion, with the vivid life below. from the countryside. One may pur- 
The characteristic life of Naples is chase the cones entire or buy the kernels, 
lived in the streets. The broad doorways which have been abstracted and boiled, 
of the houses, supplying both light and and are a seasonable treat to the poor, 
air, stand open, and within are men and Occasionally, one comes upon a small stall 
women busy at their day's tasks or seated formed of a board resting upon an up- 
at table taking the meal of the hour, turned box, at which cigar stubs, gathered 
indifferent to passers-by. In some of the from the streets, are grouped according to 
houses a fire is burning on the stone size and offered for sale, a given number 
floor near the door, about which children for a soldo — one-tenth of a penny. 
are playing; in front of others a fire has The distinctive Christmas sweetmeat is 
been built in the flagged street and is of boiled sugar and chopped almonds. This 
surrounded by chatting neighbors; and, is skillfully formed into a remarkable 
occasionally, one passes a house before variety of pretty or grotesque shapes and is 
which the future meal is steaming over a seen, on this day before Christmas, borne 

343 



344 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



proudly through the streets in wooden 
trays on the head of the sweet-cook's boy. 

But the great dish of December 24th 
is fish, and for days the water-side has 
been crowded with people watching the 
arrival of the small fishing boats, which are 
such a pretty feature of the Bay, and 
which have come in heavily laden. As one 
nears those streets converted into fish 
markets for the day, the cries of the 
vendors form an appalling chorus. More 
than fifty fish stalls appear in one short 
side street, and at each stall two and three 
men are shouting the wares as continu- 
ously as nature will permit, one catching 
up the cry when another drops it through 
weariness. The fish are displayed in flat 
baskets or alive in basins of water. Every 
variety of color and form in small fish 
held by the Mediterranean seems repre- 
sented here, from lovely goldfish, a Nea- 
politan delicacy, to weird creatures un- 
namable and, one would prefer to think, 
unedible. The proper fish of the day, 
however, is eel, and eels are offered on 
every hand in writhing freshness. 



Adding to the confusion of sounds are 
the voices of exhilarated and dramatic 
marketers, punctuated by remonstrances 
from the chief feature in tomorrow's 
feast, the chicken, being carried home 
through the jostling crowd. 

The Via Roma, as we enter it, is a mass of 
people, through which a current of pedes- 
trians and carriages is with difficulty 
kept moving by the yellow-buttoned 
Guardie. On either side the street is 
lined today with stalls offering gifts for 
sale, about which press humble pur- 
chasers. They are very appealing, these 
gifts of the poor, china trinkets and gay 
little cards, for which men and women are 
spending their few soldi. 

Flowers are everywhere, abundant and 
cheap, else were it not Italy. By voices, 
harsh with much calling of gentle wares, 
are offered camellias, carnations, yellow 
roses, violets, candytuft, mignonette; and 
as we fill our hands with these we find in 
their familiar sweetness a link between the 
novel scenes about us and the dear, accus- 
tomed Christmas of home. 



Tre 



asures 



The common things in life are all so dear; 

The moon's soft rays that through the leaves 
doth shine, 
The morning's sun on glistening waves so clear, 

The clouds of gorgeous hue, are mine and thine. 

The memories dear that come to us at quiet hour, 
The dreams we have that do not all come true, 

The songs we love, a book in shaded bower, 
These priceless gifts are all for me, for you. 

The friends we've loved and love may have 
departed, 
Some gone ior aye, still memory holds them 
dear, 
The partings left us sad and broken-hearted, 
The twilight shades of evening bring them 
near. 

When all is hushed and peace to us is given, 
We dream our dreams and build our castles 
fair, 
While through the turmoil of the day we've 
striven, 
The evening brings us surcease from all care. 

— Edith Louise Farrell. 



Christmas Cakes of Long Ago 

By Elizabeth Kimball 



THE hostess, who is looking for 
something novel to serve during 
the Christmas festivities and 
whose patriotism would demand that it 
be typically American, cannot do better 
than turn back to her ancestors' re- 
cipes for Christmas cakes. Crisp and 
dainty, they were always to be found in 
plenty at the great family gatherings 
both North and South. 

For Christmas there were sure to be 
"Plumb Cakes," while the housewife who 
was especially thrifty took the precaution 
to make "Little Plumb Cakes to keepe 
long." Then there were "Spanish Bis- 
cuit," and, for the sake of neutrality, 
"Portugese Cakes." The New Year 
was ushered in with bowls of milk 
punch and pitchers of eggnog, accom- 
panied by seed cakes and the great 
"New Year's Cake" made in honor of 
the day. 

In many families these recipes have 
been handed down from generation to 
generation as cherished heirlooms, to be 
used only at this time of the year. In 
the majority of cases, however, such 
recipes have been lost or neglected during 
the passage of the years, and Christmas 
comes and goes without its proper share 
of little cakes. Any one, who has had 
an opportunity of tasting these sweets in 
the homes where they are still made, will 
welcome the chance of making them and 
of adding an element of novelty to the 
usual Christmas menu. 

The true spirit of Christmas can be 
gained only if one personally directs the 
making of these little cakes. While it is 
no longer possible to emulate the thrifty 
housewives of bygone days to the 
extent of having half a dozen pick- 
aninnies seeding raisins, slicing citron, 
and stemming "ye raisins of ye sun," 
there is still a great deal of pleasure to be 



derived from the preparation of these 
dainties. The present-day housewife who 
envelops herself in a big apron, mixes, 
cuts cookies and bakes to her heart's 
content, will feel more of the real Christ- 
mas spirit and find more joy in giving — ■ 
if the gifts are the result of her handiwork 
— than if she were to spend thrice as 
many hours haunting the shops. 

Among some people there is, unfortu- 
nately, an impression that colonial cook- 
ery means inaccurate, extravagant re- 
cipes. How false this is, any one who 
has given serious study to the old cook- 
books will be eager to testify. The 
supposed opulence of our ancestors' 
tables has possibly helped to create thic 
idea. It must not be forgotten, how- 
ever, that they were cooking for families 
and dependents two or three times the 
number of those of today. When re- 
duced and given the proper proportions, 
their quaint old dishes have a charm and 
flavor which few things of today can- 
rival. 

The first baking to which the house- 
wife would turn her attention was the 
"Little Plumb Cakes" with their promise 
to "keepe long." For these she used 
the following recipe. 

"Little Plumb Cakes" 



4 cups flour 
1 cup sugar 
1 cup butter 
1 teaspoonful mixed 
spices 



3 eggs 

5 pound currants 
5 teaspoonful salt 
5 pound seedless rais- 
ins 



Mix the flour, sugar, spices, and salt 
together. Beat the butter to a cream; 
add eggs, well beaten, raisins, currants, 
and flour mixture. Beat well for ten 
minutes. If properly mixed and beaten, 
this will form a stiff paste. Dredge 
flour on tin baking sheets and drop 
batter the size of a walnut on them. 
Bake in a brisk oven. 



345 



346 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The following recipe for seed cakes 
dates from the year 1700, but the cen- 
turies which have passed since then have 
robbed the little cakes of none of their 
deliciousness. 

Seed Cakes 



English Cakes 



1 cup butter 

2 cups sugar 
4 eggs 

^ cup rosewater 

3 drops oil of cinna- 
mon 

£ cup boiling water 



3 tablespoonfuls car- 
away seed 

4 cups flour 

\ teaspoonful saler- 



atus 



teaspoonful salt 



Wash the butter in rosewater, cream, 
and add sugar. Beat the eggs well and 
add to the first mixture with the spices 
(three-fourths a teaspoonful of powdered 
cinnamon may be substituted for the oil) 
and soda dissolved in the hot water. 
Add flour and, if necessary, a little milk 
to form a stiff paste. Drop on buttered 
paper in lumps the size of nutmegs. 
Bake in a moderate oven. 

For the " great cake" which the season 
demands, cider cake will form a pleasant 
variation from the usual fruit loaf — 
while those who insist on their "plums" 
may add a cup of raisins and currants 
to the recipe. Our forefathers of 1796 
made their cider cake in the following 
manner. 



Cider Cake 



1 teaspoonful soda 

1 cup cider 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon and allspice, 
mixed 



3 cups flour 

2 cups sugar 
1 cup butter 

3 eggs 
y teaspoonful salt 

Mix flour, sugar, salt, and spices to- 
gether. Work in the butter until no 
lumps remain. Add the eggs, well 
beaten, and the cider in which the soda 
has been dissolved. The dough should 
be fairly stiff. Bake in a moderate 
oven. Cover with a brown sugar frost- 
ing. 

By 1800 the colonists had forgotten 
their grudge against the mother country 
sufficiently to indulge in "English Cakes" 
for Christmas — and to enjoy them! 



1 cup sugar 
1 cup butter 
3 eggs 

^ teaspoonful grated 
nutmeg 



4 cups flour 

^ pound currants 

| teaspoonful salt 

Sour cream 

1 cup walnut meats 



Cream the butter; add sugar, spice, 
salt, and eggs, well beaten. Stir in the 
currants, nuts, and, alternately, the 
flour and sufficient sour cream to form 
a stiff dough. Drop from a spoon on 
pans lined with buttered paper. Bake 
in a hot oven. If preferred, they may be 
rolled out and cut in fancy shapes. 

Spanish Biscuits were considered a 
great delicacy about 1825, when they 
were always served with Portugal Cakes. 

Spanish Biscuit 

4 eggs 

4 tablespoonfuls sifted 

sugar 
4 tablespoonfuls flour 

Separate the eggs and beat the yolks 
twenty minutes. Add the sugar gradu- 
ally. Fold in the stiffly-beaten whites, 
then the flour and lemon peel. Drop 
by spoonfuls on buttered paper and bake 
in a quick oven. 

Portugal Cakes 



j teaspoonful salt 
Grated rind of 1 



lemon 



2 cups flour 
1 cup sugar 

1 cup butter 

2 tablespoonfuls rose- 
water 



i eggs 

3 teaspoonfuls baking 

powder 
\ pound currants 
§ teaspoonful salt 



Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and 
baking powder. Rub the butter into it 
until it is the consistency of grated 
bread. Add currants, well-beaten eggs, 
and rosewater. Bake in a loaf in a 
moderate oven. 

"Pepper Cakes," which we moderns 
would be likely to designate by the milder 
term of "Honey Cakes," were always a 
Christmas favorite. The following re- 
cipe was used in the old world in 1743 
before it was brought to America. 

Honey Cakes 



1 cup sugar 
If cups honey 
1 teaspoonful cloves 
| teaspoonful ginger 
1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 



\ teaspoonful salt 
\ teaspoonful nutmeg 
\ teaspoonful pepper 
1 teaspoonfu 1 anise 
If cups xyo fioui 
\\ cups wheat flour 



CHRISTMAS CAKES 



347 



Sift together spices, salt, and flour. 
Put honey and sugar in a pan and let 
the mixture boil up. Then pour it on 
the flour mixture and stir until a thick 
dough is formed. If necessary, add more 



honey or flour until the paste is stiff 
enough to roll. Roll into small balls 
and bake in a moderate oven. When 
cool, dip each ball separately in a thin 
white frosting. 



Christmas Cakes 

By Alice Urquhart Fewell 



AS the Holidays draw near again 
the busy housewife begins to 
turn her thoughts towards 
(Christmas sweets and goodies, for Christ- 
mas would not be complete for the 
kiddies without the usual cakes and 
candies which mother is sure to prepare. 
What kind of cakes shall we have this 
year? This question is being asked in 
many homes, and the answer to it may 
be found, in part at least, in the sugges- 
tions that follow. Here are several 
new cake recipes, and two attractive 
and unusual designs for decorating Christ- 
mas cakes, which will make an especial 
appeal to the little ones. 

The Orange Marmalade Cake that 
follows is delicious, and has the ad- 
vantage of keeping well; in fact, it im- 
proves with age just as a fruit cake does. 
This cake may be made a week or more 
before Christmas, and frosted on all 
sides with brown sugar frosting. The 
marmalade keeps the cake moist and 
fresh, and it will remain so for some time, 
even after it is cut. 

Orange Marmalade Cake 



cake requires a moderate oven and 
should be baked about fifty minutes. 
Frost with brown sugar frosting, and 
wrap in paraffin paper, if the cake is to 
be kept any length of time. 

Eggs are scarce in the winter months, 
and this recipe for "eggless" fruit cake 
should make a strong appeal. 

Fruit Cake (Without eggs) 



1 cup sour milk 

1 cup sugar 

2 cups flour 

% teaspoonful salt 
| teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
\ teaspoonful cloves 



\ teaspoonful nutmeg 
2 tablespoonfuls soda 



% cup raisins 
\ cup sliced 



citron 
4 tablespoonfuls 
melted butter 



Add the sugar to the sour milk. Mix 
and sift the dry ingredients, and add 
gradually. Add fruit, and melted butter 
last. Beat well. Bake in a slow oven 
for one hour. Dates or figs may be 
substituted for one-half the citron, or 
other combinations of fruit made instead. 

Four-Minute Fruit Cake 



\ cup butter or \ cup 
vegetable fat 

1 cup sugar 

2 eggs 

\ cup milk 

1 cup orange marmalade 



If cups sifted flour 
3 teaspoonfuls baking 

powder 
1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 



\ cup soft butter or 

chicken fat 
2\ cups brown sugar 
4 eggs 

1 cup milk 

3£ cups sifted flour 

2 tablespoonfuls cocoa 
\ teaspoonful mace 



1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 

2 tablespoonfuls bak- 
ing powder 

\ pound raisins 

\ pound stoned dates. 

cut fine 
\ pound currants 



Cream the butter; add the sugar grad- 
ually, and eggs well beaten. Mix and 
sift the dry ingredients and add alter- 
nately with the milk. Add orange mar- 
malade, and bake in a loaf pan. This 



Put all the ingredients into a bowl 
together, and beat vigorously with a 
wooden spoon for four minutes. Bake 
in loaf pans for forty-five minutes. This 
is a very satisfactory fruit cake, and a 
great time saver. 



348 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Orange Gelatine Cake 

Bake sponge cake in deep round layer 
cake pans. Mold orange jelly in the 
same pans, which have first been mois- 
tened with cold water. Have one layer 
of the jelly to every two layers of the 
cake. When the jelly is firm, dip the 
pan for a second in hot water, then place 
one of the sponge cake layers on top of 
the jelly, and on top of this place a large 
cake plate upside down. Hold the 
three firmly together and turn the plate 
over so that the cake will rest on it, and 
the jelly will turn out from the mold on 
top. Now place another layer of sponge 
cake on top of the jelly, and frost with 
orange frosting. 

Milk chocolate frosting makes a nice 
change for Christmas cakes, and is always 
a favorite with children, since it produces 
quite a different flavor from ordinary 
chocolate frosting. 

Milk Chocolate Frosting 



1 cup sugar 

£ cup boiling water 

Whites of 2 eggs 



1 teaspoonful lemon 

juice 
1 large cake milk choc- 
olate 



Put sugar and water into a saucepan, 
stir until it boils, and then boil without 
stirring until the syrup will spin a thread 
when dropped from a fork. Remove 
from fire, and pour slowly over the whites 
of eggs that have been beaten until 
stiff. Beat until thick enough to spread. 
Spread this frosting on the cake, and 
when dry cover it with milk chocolate 
which has been melted over hot water. 
The water under the chocolate must be 
considerably below the boiling-point. 
The chocolate will make a thick coating 
over the white frosting and will dry 
quickly. 

Another use for milk chocolate in 
making Christmas sweets may be found 
in substituting it for confectioner's choc- 
olate when dipping bonbons. Try 
dipping white and pink marshmallows in 
melted milk chocolate, and allowing 



them to dry on paraffin paper. One 
could hardly find a more simple form of 
candy for the kiddies than this, and yet 
they resemble the rich French candies in 
appearance. 

Decorating Christmas Cakes 

The attractive appearance of the 
Christmas cakes is of prime importance,, 
and children especially are interested in 
fancy decorations. The cake, illustrated 
on page 359, is baked in a pan made to 
represent a Christmas star. These six- 
pointed star cake pans may be purchased 
at any "ten-cent" store. The cake is 
frosted with white frosting, and decorated 
with tiny red candies. The candies, 
outline the star, and are put on just as 
the frosting begins to dry. A pair of 
tweezers will be found convenient for 
handling the candies. The top of the 
cake is decorated with candies, and with 
some of the frosting forced through 
pastry tubes in various fancy shapes. A 
sprig of evergreen completes this very 
attractive Christmas cake. The cake on 
page 360,made to represent a snow-covered 
house, is quite suitable for a children's 
Christmas party. The little house is 
worked out in considerable detail, even 
to the chimney for Santa Claus. The 
cake is made in two sections, and is 
baked in two bread pans. When the 
cake is cold, cut the top from one of the 
loaves, so that an even rectangular piece 
is formed with a flat surface on top. 
This is the body of the house. The roof 
is made by cutting the other loaf to form 
the sloping sides, as shown in the illus- 
tration. Place the roof on top of the 
body, and secure with several toothpicks 
so there will be no danger of slipping. 
(The cake left over after cutting the 
roof may be kept and served with a hot 
sauce for a dessert.) The chimney of 
the house is made from a piece of stale 
bread. Cut the chimney the correct 
shape with a sharp knife, and then toast 
the bread lightly to give it firmness. 
Secure this chimney to one end of the 
house with toothpicks. The entire cake 



OUT OF THE BASEMENT 



349 



may now be frosted with white frosting. 
Just before the frosting begins to dry 
sprinkle coarse granulated sugar over 
the sides of the roof to represent snow. 
This will glisten and give a very at- 
tractive appearance. The door and win- 
dows are outlined with Angelica cut 
into thin strips. The lower edge of the 
roof is also outlined with Angelica, and 



the door-knob made from a tiny red 
candy. If one wishes to make it even 
more realistic, the chimney may be 
frosted with red frosting, made by the 
addition of vegetable coloring to white 
frosting. A small figure of Santa Claus, 
either standing near the base of the 
chimney or on the roof, would give an 
added touch to the cake. 



Out of the Basement 

By Helen C. Goodspeed 

State Supervisor of Home Economics 



IN many places, home economics is in 
the basement, in body and in spirit. 
In body, because it came as an after- 
thought in curriculum-making and there 
was no room for it above ground. Tem- 
porary quarters were arranged for in the 
basement, always with the thought that 
in the new building it would be different; 
but, somehow, starting in the basement 
has been a definite handicap in that it 
has made an association with below- 
ground quarters, which has become an 
obsession with some of our best archi- 
tects. 

Should we select the least attractive 
rooms in the school building for teaching 
home-making ideals and all that term 
includes of H^use Selection and House 
Furnishing, Sanitation, and Hygiene, 
Child Care, and Food and Clothing for 
the family, not to mention the related 
psychology, sociology, eugenics, and phi- 
losophy which are an essential part of the 
good home-making course? All the 
people who, in their thinking, place 
Home Economics in the basement are 
strong in their belief that we must look 
to the American home to furnish us with 
the ideals that make for citizenship. 
Since we all agree that untrained men 
and women do not make the best home- 
builders, then the right kind of training 
for home-making is one of the big issues 
of the day. Why not give it as important 



a place in our school building and in our 
school curriculum as we do in our minds, 
when we say that the American home is 
the glory and the hope of American 
civilization? 

The Home Economics Department is 
in the basement in spirit, in the opinion 
of academic teachers, here and there, 
who tend to slight it in arranging pro- 
grams and in guiding the students on 
registration days. From their point of 
view, Home Economics can be omitted 
from the daily program of the students 
with little or no detriment, from an 
educational point of view. This lack 
of understanding of what the Home 
Economics Department is trying to do 
may be summed up in a remark made 
recently by an English teacher in a high 
school, who said: "Isn't it too bad to be 
spending so much money in teaching 
cooking, when prices are so high?" 

Home Economics seems to have been 
left in the basement and in the rear end 
of the great educational movement to- 
ward new and better methods of teaching. 
Superintendents and principals have for 
some time studied with their teaching 
force the problem-project method of 
teaching reading, arithmetic, geography, 
and history. They have advocated the 
socialized recitation and other up-to- 
date ideas, as applied to academic 
Concluded on page $82 



350 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Subscription $1.50 perYear,Single Copies 15c 
Postage to Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
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In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
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In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
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Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 

Yuletide! 

YULETIDE — season of all the year 
Brimming over with love and cheer, 
Spurning grasping and selfish greed, 
Urging heed of a brother's need! 

YULETIDE — season of all the year 
Bidding thoughts of our friends so dear, 
And of HIM the great Friend of friends 
Whose kind blessing on all descends! 

Hearts should beat with a purpose true, 
Friends should pledge sacred ties anew, 
Souls imbibe as their chosen guide 
Christ's sweet message — this glad YULETIDE! 
— Caroline Louise Sumner. 

WORK AND SAVE 

WE are living at too high-a cost. As 
wages are increased the cost of all 
things goes up. What is to be the end or 
limit of it all? It is a wicked thing to 
demand an increase of wages at this time, 
and always for the same reason. A 
proper adjustment of salaries and wages 
cannot be made until the production and 
cost of commodities return to something 
like normal conditions again. Why not 
demand that the price of all things, 
especially of necessary things, be reduced, 



and go to work to see that it be brought 
about speedily. The way is not to stop 
work and spend lavishly what may have 
been saved under extraordinary con- 
ditions; far better it were to work 
steadily and save prudently. Acceptable 
to everybody is the current opinion. 

"The laboring man deserves all he can 
get out of life and then some. But he 
will never be strong for his own well- 
fare economically, socially, or politically 
until he learns to save systematically." 

CHARITY 

THAT was a good editorial recently 
in the Saturday Evening Post on 
"Drives, Drivers and Driven." The 
gist of it may be summarized somewhat 
in this wise. This is a bad year for large 
and numerous drives to prosper, even for 
the most worthy objects. The public is 
now bearing all the burdens it can stagger 
under and needs respite and relief for a 
season. The drivers should be demobil- 
ized and engaged in some more useful and 
helpful occupation, while the already over- 
taxed and overburdened public should 
ignore all promoters, "the only author- 
ized recording angels of philanthropy," 
and buckle down to the task of a general 
housecleaning and a possible solution of 
our own economic and social problems. 
The writer of the editorial referred to 
above says: 

"Wise charity will decrease, unwise 
increase, the cost of living. The latter 
is simply another tax, lightly imposed, 
wastefully spent. Also, when one helps 
an undeserving object he is keeping men 
and women out of useful industry where 
they are needed to make and sell goods. 
Necessary and well-managed charities will 
naturally demobilize every worker that 
can possibly be spared to production." 

We as a people can render the best 
service to suffering humanity abroad 
through intensive industry and prudent 
economy in the conduct of affairs at home. 
In a word, we must work more and spend 
less. We should get out of Europe and 
see to it that disloyal propagandists and 



EDITORIALS 



351 



evil agitators of unrest get out of America. 
Revolution is disastrous and ruinous in 
every sense; evolution is slow, con- 
structive, and unerring; it is the natural 
law of human progress and welfare. 
With nature and nature's laws we 
should ever co-operate. Let charity 
begin at home. 

APOLOGY FOR WRONGDOING 

IT is high time that apology for wrong- 
doing be discontinued. Things 
should be called by their proper names 
and no transgressor let go uncondemned. 
During the late war, the modern pacifist, 
the so-called parlor pacifist, has said 
much in way of apology for evil and 
wrongdoing, until the moral conscience 
of people seems to have become weak 
and uncertain, no longer able to discern 
keenly between truth and error, justice 
and injustice. Early in the war we 
had the pleasure to listen to a single 
lecture by a great leader of pacifism in 
America. His first sentence was, "No- 
body began this war." This seemed to us 
like an apology for some one, and the 
same note ran through the entire dis- 
course. Now everybody knows, and 
did then, who began the war, and all 
about it. There was no uncertainty con- 
nected with this event. We also know 
that the single issue to be decided was the 
moral issue: shall might or right prevail 
on earth? We hope the matter has been 
settled for all time. Certainly it has 
cost enough in treasure and the best 
blood of the world. 

But are we still to apologize for the evil- 
doer and condone his wrongs? In a re- 
cent Conference of Churches no little was 
said in way of apology for the ills and 
wrongs of society, especially as revealed 
in the great social unrest of the day. 
Among other good things said and done 
by this conference, it unanimously 
adopted the following resolution: 

"We, as members of the Unitarian 
General Conference, reaffirming our al- 
legiance to our faith in the dignity of 
human nature and our interest in the 



physical, moral, and spiritual welfare 
of all human beings, hold that the follow- 
ing principles should be the basis of 
industrial reconstruction: That industrial 
democracy, involving a conception of 
industry as a co-operative enterprise and 
the equitable sharing by all the partners 
of the rewards, control, and risks of their 
common undertaking, is the natural and 
proper corollary of political democracy." 
Surely this is excellent and above 
cavil; it should be acceptable to every- 
body. However, we invite attention to 
a single word in the statement, risks, 
which we print in italics. Right at this 
point, on this one word, lies the gist of 
the whole situation of the labor question. 
Here is the moral issue. Will some one 
guide us to the occasion and point out 
the place where striking organized labor 
has ever expressed, or hinted at, a 
willingness to share in the risks of a 
common undertaking? We stand for law 
and order. We favor every cause that 
is legally, justifiably, and morally right. 
From a social point of view, the greatest 
thing to be desired on earth is righteous 
government. 

ECONOMY IN FOOD 

THE following excerpts from an 
English publication on "How to 
Economize in Food" and "Continental 
Cooking Frugality" are equally well 
applicable to the needs of America. 

"Every man, woman, and child in the 
country who wants to help the State this 
coming winter can do so by giving 
thought to the question of how to 
economize food. If all the food that is 
now being wasted could henceforth be 
saved and properly used, the country 
would have more spare money and each 
family would have more money to save 
and invest, and the prices of food mate- 
rials would be kept down. We can all 
help our country every day and every 
hour to gain these advantages by stopping 
all waste of food in our homes. 

" There is another side of t he food ques- 
tion in which every one of us can help 



352 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



to strengthen the position of our country 
in the shortage which is expected this 
winter. We can consume less of certain 
foods, which are more difficult to obtain 
in full quantities, and which, therefore, 
rise in price. In the case of some of 
these — meat, for example — we can 
replace them, in part at any rate, by 
other food materials which are cheaper 
and more plentiful. This can be done 
without injury to health or strength in 
any way, and there is a great variety of 
dishes to be found in the vegetable and 
cereal world, quite as nourishing as meat 
dishes. 

"In France and Flanders vegetable 
cookery is really an art, almost unknown 
to the domestic cook in this country, who 
cannot be got to understand that the 
finer vegetables ought to be prepared 
with especial care as separate dishes. 
And there is one golden rule to ob- 
serve: Let as short a time as possible 
elapse between the cooking of the vege- 
tables and the eating of them." 

" How often do we hear it advanced as a 
matter of reproach that we differ so much 
in our methods of making use of cold 
meat, left-over fish and vegetables, from 
the style prevailing in France and Italy. 
There is no reason why we should not 
revel in the delightful dishes which our 
neighbors across the sea know how to 
prepare and cook so well and so eco- 
nomically. 

" A few spoonfuls of nicely flavored and 
seasoned minced meat or fish make an 
appetizing and nutritive dish, spread on 
hot buttered toast, used to stuff baked 
potatoes or tomatoes, or else served with 
poached eggs. Meat pies require much 
less meat, if sliced potatoes or other root 
vegetables, or a little cooked macaroni 
or rice, is added and is carefully blended 
with the meat. Potatoes should really 
only be cooked in quantities that are 
actually needed, but if any should be left 
over they may be sliced and fried and 
served to eke out a small supply of bacon 
or sausages for breakfast, sliced and 
added cold to salads, or mashed and 



employed as a substitute for bread- 
crumbs in 'shepherd's pies,' fish cakes, 
etc., or made into the delicious and 
appetizing potato cakes or bread so 
largely used in Ireland, which not 
only save wheaten flour, but are very 
nutritious." 



It is manifest the world over that only 
by increased production and persistent 
frugality in the use of food-supplies can 
the food problem be solved and the cost 
of living be reduced. By combining or 
co-operating, American housewives could 
end the present frightful cost of living in 
three months. 

Of late, it is said, a wave of community 
feeling has swept the country. 

"This community spirit says: I am 
under obligations of service to my 
neighbor next door, whoever he is. I am 
under obligations of service to my com- 
munity; I am no longer a resident, only, 
I am a responsible citizen. I must make 
it my duty to see that the schools and 
churches teach first of all good citizen- 
ship. 

It is not difficult to perceive that 
when this sense of neighborhood obliga- 
tion gets possession of the will and feel- 
ings a better community and a better 
state will result, and the evils of profiteer- 
ing, industrial over-reaching, and political 
greed will disappear." 

Christmas 

The snow lies deep on the moorlands, 

The night sinks gently down, 
While the chill wind's sad vibrations 

Shake the forest bare and brown; 
But although the night is dreary, 

There's a glory in the skies; 
For, behold, the little Christ-child 

In a manger lowly lies. 

Oh, wild winds, carry the story, 

And spread the tidings afar 
That the birth of the King of Glory 

Is heralded by a star! 

Oh, angels, with exultation 

Sing loud your praises sweet 
While the wise men haste from distant lands 

To worship at his feet! 
For he was by angels welcomed, 

And by prophets long foretold, 
So they travel far through the gloomy night 

To offer him myrrh and gold. 



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ROAST GOOSE WITH SWEET POTATOES AND APPLES 

Seasonable-and-Tested Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill and Wealtha A. Wilson 

TN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 

once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 

meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. In flour 

mixtures where yeast is called for, use bread flour; in all other flour mixtures, use cake or pastry flour. 



Simple Tomato Bisque (Soup) 

SCALD one quart of milk with a stalk of 
celery and two slices of onion. Press 
enough cooked tomatoes through a 
sieve to make one pint; add half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and pepper as desired. Stir 
one-third a cup of flour and a teaspoonful of 
salt with milk to make a smooth batter; 
dilute with a little of the hot milk, stir 
until smooth, then stir into the rest of the 
hot milk. Continue stirring until smooth 
and thick; cover and let cook fifteen 
minutes. Strain into the hot puree, mix 
thoroughly, and serve at once with 
croutons. 

Cream-of-Chicken Soup for Ten 
Plates 

Let two quarts of chicken broth (the 
better and richer the broth the better the 
soup) with two or three stalks of celery, a 
few slices of carrot, and half an onion sim- 
mer twenty minutes. If the soup is to be 
made from the framework and trimmings 
of roast fowls, discard all stuffing, cover shaped pieces 

353 



the whole with cold water and let simmei 
an hour, then add the vegetables, simmer 
fifteen minutes and strain. Melt one- 
third a cup of butter; cook in this half a 
cup of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of pepper; add five cups of milk and 
stir until smooth and boiling (to save 
time scald three cups of the milk and 
add, after the cooked flour and butter 
have been smoothly blended and brought 
to the boiling-point with two cups of 
cold milk). When all the milk has been 
added and the whole is smooth and boil- 
ing, add the hot broth and strain if 
needed. More salt will be needed. The 
beaten yolks of two or three eggs mixed 
with a cup of cream improve the soup 
wonderfully. Do not let the soup boil, 
after the egg mixture has been stirred 
into it. 

Canapes, Coquelin Style 

From thin slices of stale bread cut 
out small round, square, 



Frv these 



or diamond- 
in butter or 



354 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



olive oil, and let become cold. Pound 
to a smooth paste one-fourth a cup, each, 
of butter and cooked chicken, half this 
quantity, each, of cooked ham and grated 
cheese, a dash of paprika and a little salt. 
Spread this paste upon the prepared 
bread. Garnish the paste with capers and 
figures cut from slices of gherkin and beet 
root. 

Sandwiches a llmperatrice 

Take two tablespoonfuls of thick mayon- 
naise dressing; add two tablespoonfuls 
of cucumber or celery, fine-chopped and 
dried. Season this with pepper and salt, 
and spread on thin slices of bread and 
butter, and on this put a layer of chopped 
ham or tongue. Close up the slices, and 



on the rack in the pan and let cook about 
an hour; then pour off the fat from the pan 
and dredge the goose with flour; season, 
also, with salt and pepper. When the 
flour is browned, baste often with hot 
water, dredging with flour after each 
basting. If the goose be not too fat, 
the dripping in the pan may be used for 
basting, but usually boiling salted water 
is better. Cook until the joints separate 
easily, from one hour and a half to three 
hours. Garnish with sweet potatoes, 
grilled, and whole apples, boiled in 
syrup. 

Chicken a la King 

(Often served from chafing-dish) 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it 




INGREDIENTS FOR 

cut them into rounds with a plain round 
cutter; cover each with some of the 
mayonnaise mixture, garnish with scal- 
loped cucumber, and a little chopped 
tongue; use for^ hors d'ceuvre, second 



course, etc. 



Roasti^Goose^ 

*J The goose should be less than a year 
old; one four months old is considered 
the choicest. Such a goose is usually 
roasted without stuffing. Wash and 
rinse thoroughly inside and out. Rub 
the inside with an onion cut in halves; 
then season with powdered sage, salt, and 
pepper. Put the goose, after trussing, 



CHICKEN A LA KING 

cook one cup of fresh mushroom "caps' 
peeled and broken in pieces, and one- 
half a green pepper, chopped fine. After 
three or four minutes add two level 
tablespoonfuls of flour and one-half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and stir until the 
sauce boils. Set over hot water; add 
three cups of cooked chicken, cut in 
cubes; cover ancftet stand to become hot. 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; 
beat in three yolks of eggs, one-half tea- 
spoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful 
of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of 
paprika, and stir into the mixture. 
Continue the stirring until the egg is set. 
Serve on toast. 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



355 




CHICKEN-AND-PINEAPPLE SALAD 



Parsnip Fritters 

The fritters may be made of cooked 
parsnips left over from a former meal. 
Cut off all the tender portion from the 
parsnips, and press through a puree 
sieve or a gravy strainer, set in a small 
saucepan. To a cup of this puree, add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, and a beaten egg, or simply 
the beaten yolk of an egg; mix thoroughly 
and press into five or six small flat cakes. 
Saute in hot butter, bacon or salt pork 
fat, first on one side then on the other. 

Filet Mignon 

Broil four small tenderloin steaks. 
Place each on a slice of toast. Fill 
timbale cases with carrots and turnips, 
cut in cubes, and mixed with peas and 
string beans. Arrange the cases on 
platter with steak. Garnish with water 
cress and slices of lemon. Serve with 
mushroom sauce. 



Chicken-and-Pineapple Salad 

On heart-leaves of lettuce place a slice 
of pineapple (canned). On this put 
half a cup of cooked chicken, diced or cut 
fine; over this spread mayonnaise dress- 
ing; decorate with narrow strips of 
pimiento and serve. 

Chicken Pancakes 

Remove all bits of white meat left on 
the framework of a roast chicken. Take 
the bones, skin and giblets of the fowl, 
with as much chicken broth or water as 
will cover the whole, an onion, cut fine, 
and a piece of carrot, and simmer an hour 
or two. Strain, remove the fat and 
thicken with butter and flour; remove 
from the fire and stir in the yolks of two 
eggs, beaten up with the juice of half a 
lemon. Pour this sauce over the pre- 
pared chicken and let it get cold. Make 
one or two very thin pancakes, cut out 
of them eight pieces five inches long and 




FILET MIGXON 



356 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



four inches wide, and put them aside. 
Spread the pieces of pancake on a big 
dish, and cover each with thin-sliced 
cooked bacon. On the bacon set a large 
tablespoonful of the mince, fold the 
pancakes over, hold them in place with 
a little white of egg, bread-crumb them, 
and bake them a pale brown on a well- 
buttered dish; serve upon a napkin. 

Bacon Fritters 

The supply of bacon is unexpectedly 
short, it can be "stretched" by making 
into fritters. They are also helpful, if 
one's palate or eye objects to the fat of 
bacon, which is, nevertheless, a very valua- 
ble food. Any good fritter batter may be 



Fry in sufficient fat to float the fritters. 

Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Mix two cups of apple, peeled and cut 
in half-inch cubes, and one tablespoonful 
of lemon juice, to keep the apple from 
discoloring. Mix the apple cubes with 
one cup of tender celery, cut in one- 
fourth inch slices, and with mayonnaise 
dressing. Add one-half a cup of walnut 
meats, broken in pieces. 

Salad Dressing 

Into a mixing bowl, put yolks of two 
eggs, one generous teaspoonful of salt, 
one teaspoonful of mustard, one-eighth 
a teaspoonful of red pepper, two table- 




APPLE-AND-CELERY SALAD 



used. It should stand for at least two 
hours, and may even stand over night. 

Fritter Batter 

Dissolve one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt in one cup of cold water, and add it 
to the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, which 
have been blended with one tablespoon- 
ful and a half of melted butter or oil. Add 
one cup of flour, beat well; cover and put 
in a cool place for two hours or over night. 
When ready to use beat the whites of the 
eggs stiff and fold into the mixture. 
Either chop the bacon into rather coarse 
pieces or dip the slices into the batter. 



spoonfuls of lemon juice, and two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Onto this, pour 
one cup of oil and do not stir. 

Have ready a sauce made of one cup of 
water, one tablespoonful of butter or 
margarine, and one-third a cup of flour. 
Cook this about ten minutes in small 
double boiler. Turn sauce (hot) into 
bowl containing other ingredients, and 
beat all together, briskly, with an egg- 
beater, and almost immediately a thick 
mayonnaise will be the result. It is 
not only delicious, but makes twice the 
amount of the other kinds of dressing. 
— From Old Subscriber. 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



357 




PHILADELPHIA BUTTER BUNS 



Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Make a sponge of one cake of com- 
pressed yeast, one-fourth a cup of water, 
one cup of scalded milk, and one cup and 
one-half of bread flour; when light, add 
one-fourth a cup of sugar, one-fourth a 
cup of butter, melted; two egg-yolks, one- 
half a teaspoonful of salt, the grated 
rind of one lemon, and flour for dough; 
about two cups of flour will be required. 
Knead until smooth and elastic. Cover 
close and set aside to become doubled 
in bulk. Turn upside down on a board, 
roll into a rectangular sheet, spread with 
softened butter, dredge with sugar and 
cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and 
roll as a jelly-roll. Cut into pieces about 



an inch and a quarter long. The dough 
will make sixteen buns. Butter well the 
bottom of a pan of proper size and dredge 
generously with brown sugar; set the 
buns on the sugar and let become light. 
Bake in a moderate oven. Turn upside 
down. The sugar and butter should 
glaze the bottom of the buns. Three or 
four tablespoonfuls of butter and a gen- 
erous half-cup of sugar are none too 
much on the pan. 

Christmas Plum Pudding 

One-half a pound of well-chopped beef 
suet, two and one-half cups of sifted 
flour, two cups of bread crumbs, one 
lemon, both juice and rind; one cup of 
brown sugar, two eggs, one-fourth a 




CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING 



358 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



teaspoonful, each, of nutmeg, ginger, 
cloves, and cinnamon; one-half a pound of 
seedless raisins; one-fourth a pound, each, 
of Malaga raisins, orange peel, citron 
peel, and lemon peel, all chopped fine; one- 
half a cup of molasses, and one-half a cup 
of orange juice. Mix all together in a 
bowl, putting the liquids in last. Put 
in a buttered mold and let steam three 
hours. Reheat very hot before_ serving. 
Serve with hard sauce. 

Apple Pie 

Line a pie plate with flaky pastry and 
fill (high) with layers of sliced apples, 
dredged generously with sugar and 
dotted with bits of butter. Brush the 
edge of the paste with cold water, set 



Pumpkin Pie 



i cup sugar 
2 tablespoonfuls mo- 
lasses 
| teaspoonful salt 
1 tablespoonful ginger 



\\ cups cooked and 

sifted pumpkin 
1 cup milk 
\ cup cream 
1 egg, beaten light 

Mix all the ingredients together and 

turn into a deep plate lined and finished 

with a fluted edge. Bake until the 

center is firm. The oven should be of 

good heat at first to bake the pastry. 

After ten or fifteen minutes reduce the 

heat. Twenty-five or thirty minutes of 

cooking are needed. 

Norwegian Birthday Ring 

Let one pint of milk come to a boil, 
together with one-half cup of butter, one 
cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, one tea- 











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APPLE PIE AND JELLY TARTS 



the upper paste in place, perforate with 
a fork; trim the edge even with the lower 
edge. Brush the top with cold water 
and dredge with sugar. Set into an 
oven hot on the bottom and reduce the 
heat as the pie bakes. 

Jelly Tarts 

Place pieces of paste, left from the 
apple pie, together and roll into a thin 
sheet; from this cut rounds about three 
inches in diameter and set them on a 
baking sheet. Place a teaspoonful of 
jelly in the center of each round, brush 
the edge with cold water, and set a per- 
forated round of paste above. Brush 
the tops with cold water and dredge with 
sugar. Bake as an apple pie. 



spoonful of cardamon flavor. Let cooll 
and sponge with one cake of yeast foam. 
Set this at noon. In the morning, add 
one cup and one-half of seedless raisins,, 
one cup of diced citron, and knead like 
bread with wheat flour. When raised 
to twice its bulk, shape to a figure "eight" 
(8), putting two buttered bowls in open 
spaces to keep its shape. Let it rise- 
again one hour, or until very light. Glaze 
with one beaten egg, sprinkle with sugar,, 
cinnamon, and shredded almonds. Bake 
in a moderate oven three-quarters of an 
hour, or until done. This makes a 
delicious coffee cake and will keep well.. 
If wanted for a luncheon, sponge it at. 
noon, the day before, knead hard at 
night, bake in the morning. l. k. 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



359 



Jelly Roll 



2 eggs beaten light 

1 cup sugar 

Grated rind 1 lemon 

| cup hot water 

1 tablespoonful butter 



1| teaspoonfuls bak- 
ing powder 
j teaspoonful salt 
Jelly 
Confectioner's sugar 



Gradually beat the sugar into the eggs; 
add the grated rind, the butter melted in 
the hot water and the flour sifted with 
the baking powder and salt. Beat all 
together thoroughly and turn into a 
shallow pan lined with paper, well 
buttered. Bake about eighteen minutes, 
turn at once on a clean cloth, trim off 
crisp edges on the four sides, spread with 
jellv and roll over and over, keeping cloth 
between fingers and the cake. Roll 
the roll of cake in the cloth and let stand 
some time. When ready to serve sift 
confectioner's sugar over the top. 

Gala Cake 

Cream one-half a cup of butter; add 
one cup of granulated sugar. Beat two 
eggs and two yolks until light; into the 
eggs beat one-half cup of sugar. Beat 
the egg-mixture into the butter-mixture, 
and when thoroughly blended add one 
cup of milk, alternately, with three 
cups of flour sifted with four teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder and one-half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Mix thoroughly and 
turn into a single cake pan, buttered 
and papered, and bake thirty minutes. 
When cool, spread with Gala Frosting. 

Gala Frosting 

Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of mo- 
lasses, two cups of granulated sugar, in 




A CHRISTMAS CAKE (SEE PAGE 348) 

one-half cup of boiling water. Cook to 
the soft-ball stage, then pour in a fine 
stream onto the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry. Return the frosting to the 
saucepan, set it over boiling water and 
beat constantly, keeping the frosting 
moving from the bottom and sides of the 
pan until the mixture thickens percep- 
tibly, then spread over the surface of the 
cake. Do not try to make the frosting 
smooth, but leave it somewhat rough. 

A Christmas Bowl 

Bake six Greening and three Baldwin 
apples, without removing skins or cores. 
When tender, add four quarts of boiling 
water, the thin yellow rind of three 
lemons and four oranges, and two bay 
leaves. Let simmer twenty minutes, 
then strain through a bag, pressing out 




GALA CAKE WITH FROSTING 



360 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




CHRISTiMAS CAKE (SEE PAGE 348) 

the juice. Boil three cups of sugar with 
a pint of water twenty minutes. Add to 
the liquid with one cup of black-tea 
infusion and set aside to become cold. 
Then add the juice from the oranges and 
lemons and a small bottle of maraschino 
cherries with the syrup. Let stand 
several hours before serving. 

Corn Balls 

Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
saucepan. When the butter is melted, 
add two cups of molasses and two-thirds a 
cup of sugar. Stir until sugar is dis- 
solved. Boil until, when tried in cold 
water, the mixture becomes brittle. Pour 
over six quarts of popped corn. Butter 
fingers and shape into balls. 

Grapes, Glace 

Either Tokay or Malaga grapes are 
suitable for this purpose. Pick the grapes 
from the bunch, leaving a short stem on 
each. With a damp cloth wipe each grape 
with care. Melt two cups of granulated 
sugar in one tablespoonful of glucose or 
corn syrup and one cup of boiling water; 
with the tips of the fingers, wet repeatedly 
in cold water, wash down the sides of the 
saucepan, then cover and let cook three 
or four minutes; uncover and let cook to 
295° F., or until the syrup is just on the 
point of changing color. Remove from 



the fire to a saucepan of boiling water. 
Drop the grapes, one at a time, into the 
syrup and remove with a candy dipper 
to a tin or aluminum surface. No better 
confection is made, but they will keep 
only one or, at most, two days. Halves of 
English walnut meats, preserved chest- 
nuts or cherries (carefully dried) may be 
prepared in the same manner. 

Feanut [Brittle 

Boil one cup and a half of granulated 
sugar, half a cup of Karo, and two-thirds 
a cup of water to about 270° F., or until 
brittle in cold water; add two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and half a pound of small 
raw (Spanish) peanuts (blanched or not, 
as desired). Stir and cook the peanuts 
in the syrup until they are thoroughly 
cooked; add a teaspoonful of soda dis- 
solved in a tablespoonful of cold water, 
and stir vigorously. When the mixture 
is through foaming, turn it on an oiled 
marble or platter, let cool somewhat, then 
turn with a spatula and pull into as thin 
a sheet as possible. 

Cherry Fudge 

Dissolve one cup and a half of granu- 
lated sugar in half a cup of milk; add one 




CORN BALLS 



SEASONABLE-AND-TESTED RECIPES 



361 



tablespoonful of red-label Karo and let 
boi! until a little of the syrup will form 
a soft ball when tested in cold water, 
or to 238° F. on the thermometer; add 
two teaspoonfuls of butter and set on a 
cake rack to cool; when cold, beat until 
the mixture begins to thicken, then turn 
on an oiled platter or marble. Break off 
small pieces, and knead until smooth, 
adding slices of cherries, meanwhile; press 
one after another into a small pan. When 
cold and firm, unmold and cut in cubes. 

Creole Pralines 

Stir three cups of granulated sugar and 
one cup of thin cream, or a cup of rich 
milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
over the fire until the sugar is melted. 
Then boil, without stirring, to the soft- 
ball stage. At the same time stir one 
cup of sugar over the fire until it becomes 
caramel. Pour the first mixture into the 
caramel, and let boil up once. Take from 
the fire, and beat until thick, adding 
quickly at the last moment three or four 
cups of pecan nut meats. Drop, by 
spoonfuls, onto buttered plates or marble. 

Potato Pancakes 

An unusual rule 

This rule for potato pancakes was given 
me by a Russian girl, whose family, she 
said, had had these cakes for breakfast 
every Sunday morning ever since she 
could remember. The flavor, I found, 
is unusual, and good; and the cakes need 
to be tried only once in order to be 
adopted by family consent upon the 
regular menu. Here is the rule: 

Three large potatoes. Peel them and 
let them soak in water overnight. Then 
grate them into a bowl; and add 



\ cup flour 
1 teaspoonful baking 
powder 



1 egg 

Salt and pepper 

Milk enough to make 

a barter (not much 

milk) 

Fry like ordinary pancakes, and serve 
with syrup and butter, or jelly, as liked. 



French Millinery in the Kitchen 

Concluded from page 338 

Moules are really most delicate in gout 
of all shell-fish. I do not know if we are 
prejudiced against their table company in 
America, but all over France they are 
regarded as a great delicacy. Sometimes 
they are eaten raw, in the shell, as are 
oysters, but the cooking of them and 
serving of them with a butter or wine 
sauce, or, perhaps, with a smooth, velvety 
sauce bechamel, puts them forth at their 
best and most subtle flavoring. 

The platter on which our moules mari- 
nieres were served was a sort of a deep 
sea dish with a flat projecting rim. On 
this rim was woven a bordering wreath 
of wet, green seaweed, and on this were 
posed symmetrically rows of tiny fluted 
clovis, or tiny clams, at least cousins ger- 
main thereto as we have them in America. 
These are here always served with their 
shells unopened, and it requires a consider- 
able practice and a good deal of dexterity 
with a knife to open the lips of this tightly 
locked bivalve. 

Within the circle of gray, shelled clovis 
was another ring of pale, pink ecrivisses, 
a crustacean that is but a junior imitation 
of a lobster. It served as a chaplet or 
coral necklace for the finishing touch to a 
very novel and highly decorative dish of 
sea-food a la Francaise. 

In these days of food frights and fashions, 
of high prices on the menus in all quarters 
of the globe (all of which is really nothing 
more than a sympathetic panic in pro- 
visions), I feel sure that this detailed ac- 
count of the millinery of these staple 
dishes of French Mediterranean cuisine 
will prove pleasant reading, showing also 
that the culinary crisis is not nearly so 
acute as to cause the French couturier- 
chef, or chef -couturier, to lose his cunning 
in the dressmaking accessories of the art 
of cookery. 




Menus for One Week in December 



Q 

P 
H 

< 

93 



Breakfast 

Sliced Oranges 

Baked Beans 

Boston Brown Bread 

Doughnuts 

( offee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Consomme 

Baked Capon 

Creamed Artichokes 

Boiled Onions 

( elery Cranberry Sauce 

One-Two-Three Dessert 

Cocoa 

Supper 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Canned Peaches 

Rolls 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Wheatena, Milk 

Baked Apple 

Country Sausage 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cheese Fondue 

Cinnamon Toast 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boiled Mutton, Caper Sauce 

Scalloped Rice and Eggplant 

Lemon Jelly with Fruit 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Milk 

Crumb Griddle Cakes 

Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Bean Soup 

Chicken a, la King 

Crusty Rolls (reheated) 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Carrot Soup 

Roast Loin of Pork with Sweet Potatoes 

Scalloped Cabbage 

Relishes 

Apple Whip 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal Porridge, Top of Milk 

Minced Lamb on Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Stuffed Baked Peppers 

Ginger Rolls 

Tea 

Dinner 

Grapefruit 

Meat Pie (reheated) 

Junket 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat 

Brown Bread Creamed Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Green Pea Soup 

Buttered Toast 

Chocolate Layer Cake 

Tea 

Dinner 

Roast Lamb 

Potatoes Anna 

Baked Stuffed Onions 

Canned Pears 

Cookies 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Quaker Oats, Milk 

Philadelphia Scrapple 

Crusty Rolls (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Deviled Crabs 

Mashed Potatoes 

Floating Island 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Potato Soup 

Oysters Mornay 

Stuffed Endive Salad 

Plum Pudding 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

[Cream of jj Wheat, Top of Milk 
Apricot-Pineapple Marmalade 
Toasted Sally Lunn 
Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Rich Vegetable Soup 

Prune Pie 

Tea 



Dinner 

Scalloped Pork Tenderloin 

Grilled Sweet Potatoes 

Boston Brown Bread 

Pumpkin Pie 

Coffee 



362 



Menus for Special Occasions 



CHRISTMAS DINNER 

Kumquat-Grapefruit Cocktail 

Oysters on the Half Shell 

Clear Soup 

Roast Turkey, Plain Dressing 

Mashed Potatoes Browned Chestnuts 

Buttered Cauliflower Boiled Onions 

Celery Hearts Olives 

Stuffed Spiced Prunes 

Apple-and-Celery Salad Cranberry Jelly 

Plum Pudding Sultana Roll 

Almond Rings Almond Stars 

Bonbons Fancy Grapes 

Coffee 

SUPPER FOR SKATING PARTY 

Scalloped Oysters 

Veal-and-Ham Pie (cold) 

Stuffed Eggs 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Rolled Oats Bread Sandwiches 

Boston Brown Bread 

Pickled Carrots Olives 

Sour Pickles 

Fudge Layer Cake 

Almond Christmas Cakes 

Coffee 

STUDIO TEA 

Plain, White-and-Brown Sandwiches 

Crabmeat-Almond-Celery Salad 

(Tinned crab and bottled mayonnaise) 

Chicken a la King 

(Tinned boned chicken) 

Olives Celery Hearts 

Sour Pickles 

Tiny Christmas Cakes Bonbons 

Kumquats 

Coffee Cocoa Tea 



363 



Food -^ After the War 

By Florence M. LaGanke 

N the day that peace is de- is more important, we demand less. At a 

clared do you know what I'm restaurant not long ago the waitress gave 

going to do? I am going to have one lump of sugar with each demi-tasse. 

a 7 serving of everything on the table, There were very few patrons that asked 



O 



and then I'm going to take one taste, — 
and then I'm going to say, 'That's all, 
thank you; I don't care for any more.' I 
am so tired of this gospel of the clean 
plate." The speaker was a girl with a 
capricious appetite, but a stern conscience. 
The time was the winter of 1917 when the 
food situation was most acute, and we 
were all leaving our plates in the condition 
of the Spratt family's platter. The real 
crux of her statement, though, lies in the 
query — -Well, did she? How firm a foun- 
dation did all the exemplary food habits 
of the war establish in the routine of our 
eating? Have we done what so many 
people said we would do. — eat substitute 
breads forever after, rather than the 
wheaten loaf? 

The great gain has been something 
less tangible than the actual meatless, 
wheatless meal: it has given us a changed 



for more. That could never have hap- 
pened before the war. In the first place, 
we would never have consented to have 
food doled out; in the second place, the 
world at large would have heard from us if 
we did not get what we wanted, "when 
we were ready to pay for it, don't you 
know!" 

What about bread? Do we clamor for 
oatmeal, and rice, and barley, and potato 
bread? Or, do we say with a sigh of 
satisfaction, as we eat a crusty roll, "My, 
isn't it good to have real rolls again!" 
The bakers' advertisements are loud in 
their announcements of pre-war-time 
bread. And then, meat! Have we so 
changed our customs that it is not true 
any longer to say, as the Irishwoman did, 
"Oh, yes, the two free days at the Museum 
are easy to remember — wash day and 
fish day." Has our week only one fish 



mental attitude. That girl did just ex- day, or have we put in, at least, two? The 

actly what she said she would do, but she butchers say there is more demand for 

did it just once, and then she said, "I'm fish now than before the war, but they 

not comfortable any more when I waste attribute it to the high cost of meat, 

food." The idea of wasting food rather rather than to the continuing custom of 

than just leaving it, because she did not meatless days. 

care for it, is a decided aftermath of the Has it, then, all been in vain? Are the 

war. We all have more conscience when pages and pages of substitute recipes just 



it comes to wasting food wantonly. 

In a recent play, one of the characters 
put three heaping spoonfuls of sugar in his 
tea, and the audience audibly gasped. 
On the whole, we use less sugar, and, what 



to be so many scraps of paper? NO! 
because the war changed (it may be ever so 
slightly), but if changed, after all, our 
attitude of mind. We are willing to try 
new combinations. We do not say that 



364 



FOOD — AFTER THE WAR 



365 



the good old days produced everything 
good, and that the war days gave~us only 
unpalatable and uneatable foods. The 
housewife experimented and the family 
ate ! If the housewife is wise, she will mem- 
orize or tabulate some of her results. 
Then, when the planning of meals becomes 
that deadly bore, she will go back to some 
of her war dishes. 

We learned the possibilities of potatoes. 
"The potato in the cellar bin, a fried po- 
tato was to him — and nothing more" is 
no longer true. Potatoes found their 
way into baking powder biscuit, into 
fruit cakes, into bread. Potato flour came 
into its own again as the flour "par ex- 
cellence" for sponge cake. Cooks have 
learned to make allowances for moisture 
and for weight of mashed potatoes in 
batters and doughs, with most edible 
results. The value of dates, figs, raisins, 
prunes, apricots, and peaches, as a source of 
sugar, was made manifest. Corn syrup is 
not an acceptable sweetening agent in 
many dishes when used in place of sugar 
entirely. The discovery that it may be 
used, at least, half in half with sugar is 
something we will not soon neglect. 
We have put honey, maple syrup, and 
maple sugar on our list, and there are many 
of us who will never willingly take them 
off again. 

We canned; if ever a method of canning 



received a warm reception, it was the 
"Cold pack" method. And then we 
dried. There were many experiments 
that failed. But our eyes were opened to 
the possibilities, and not only our eyes, 
but the eyes of the commercial dehydra- 
tors as well. As a result, the dried foods 
of all kinds, "from soup to nuts," not 
forgetting to mention milk, have come 
upon the market to stay. And oh! how 
we moiled and toiled over bread. There 
are many people who believe that the 
baking of bread will pass into commercial 
hands, just as dressmaking and launder- 
ing have done, to great extent. But — 
we are going to bake some oatmeal bread, 
or some graham bread, or some rice bread, 
at home, just for a change when we grow 
tired of baker's fare. The war gave to us 
the power and the ability to know it could 
be done, and that we could do it. 

We are going to read with eagerness the 
recipes from "over there," because our 
boys talk about some of the dishes. Not 
when they first get home, for then it is 
mother's cooking that they want. But in 
reminiscent snatches we are going to hear 
of "that onion soup with cheese; that 
brioche; I'm telling you it was great." 
Then we are going to find the recipe, and 
we are going to try it; for that is what the 
food shortage did for us, after all — it 
made us food adventurers. 



Small Conveniences for Housewives 

By Hazel B. Stevens 



WRAP your meat loaf in oiled 
paper before baking, if you wish 
to keep the juices in, and pre- 
vent the formation of a hard crust on the 
outside. 

A tablespoonjul of molasses added to 
pancake batter will make the cakes brown 
quickly and evenly. 

// gravy is too pale to look appetizing. — 
Keep on a shelf for such emergency a 
small bottle of brown liquid, made by 



dissolving in water a little sugar, burned 
a very dark brown in the frying pan. 
The sugar must be burned past the so- 
called "brown" or caramel stage, in order 
to destroy its sweetness; the water should 
be added while the sugar is hot, when it 
will dissolve quickly. A small quantity 
added to gravy and soups gives that 
rich brown look much to be desired. 

An easy way to get the pin-feathers from 
a duck, after the big feathers have been 



366 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



removed, is to pour melted paraffin over 
it; when the paraffin has hardened, it 
may be quickly peeled off, taking all pin- 
feathers with it. A ten-cent cake of 
paraffin will do for eight or nine ducks, 
so that the cost is nothing, and the saving 
of time and temper, much. 

A better way to singe a chicken than the 
old-fashioned one of a twisted paper, 
lighted, — which is dangerous to hand 
and house, — is to pour a little wood 
alcohol in a saucer, light it, and singe 
your chicken at your ease. It is easy 
enough to have a small bottle of alcohol 
on hand, once the method has been tried. 

Another use for wood alcohol, is to 
remove white spots from varnished tables 
or other furniture; a quick rub does it. 
Care must be taken, however, to make 
the rub quick, lest the alcohol have time 
to act on the varnish. 

A hint for lovers of Boston ' Brown 
Bread. — ■ Instead of steaming it in big 
loaves, use baking powder tins or Crisco 
tins. The advantage is: first, the bread 
steams more quickly through, without 
danger of becoming soggy, and, second, 
the loaves are in a more convenient shape 
for cutting. Steam enough for several 
days at a time, one can being enough 
for a meal; the bread is easily and quickly 
warmed up, a can at a time. 

In serving strawberries French style, — 
that is, with the berries heaped around a 
mound of powdered sugar, — the diffi- 
culty is to make the mound stand up in a 
compact way, so as to have an attractive- 
looking dish. Try packing the sugar 
in one of these glass lemon-squeezers, 
— turning out on the dish a perfect 
cone. 

A Conservation Hint 

Any bits of left-over meat may be ground, 
mixed with a little soup-stock and season- 
ing, or salad dressing, and sealed down in 
a jelly glass by pouring a little melted 
dripping over it. It will keep indefi- 
nitely. Even half a jelly-glass is 
enough for six or eight sandwiches at an 
emergency. Other uses will be readily 






thought of, such as spreading toast for 
Poached Eggs. 

Buying Groceries Wholesale 

Why not get the advantage of wholesale 
prices by clubbing together, a few con- 
genial families in a neighborhood, and 
buying groceries in large lots and at 
convenient intervals? The scheme is 
feasible, as I have proved; it saves time 
over the method of petty buying; it 
gives more chance for choosing high- 
quality brands. And it saves enough to 
be very much worth while. 

Fresh Tomatoes at Christmas 

In a climate where frost comes before 
many of the tomatoes have ripened in the 
garden, I pull up vines ladened with green 
tomatoes, and hang them in my cellar, 
where the tomatoes ripen slowly. This 
plan enables me to have fresh tomatoes 
on my table long after they are off the 
general market. I have them always for 
Thanksgiving, and sometimes as late as 
Christmas. 

'Double Header' Dishwashing 

We are a large family, and have a 
tradition of " getting together" frequently 
at family dinner parties. The only blot 
on these affairs has been the awful ordeal 
of dishwashing, as we keep no help. 

In a flash of inspiration, we instituted 
what we call the " double header" system; 
that is, instead of one person washing, 
and the others standing round to take 
turns at wiping, we have two sets . of 
dishwashers going at once. Number 
One clears off glasses and silverware, and 
starts washing at once; Number Two, 
with her helpers, scrapes dinner plates 
and starts washing them. Other volun- 
teers clear the table and get the rest of 
the dishes ready to wash. 

Everybody helps, men and all, making 
a. joyous game of it, and no hardship. 
It is possible, as we proved by the clock, 
to clear away completely all traces of a 
dinner for fifteen in twenty minutes; 
using six people, — two washers, two 
wipers, one to clear up, one to put away. 






Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



Serving Kitchen Meals 

WE have been living informal lives 
these war-working days. More 
hurried breakfasts were eaten, more or 
less picnic-fashion, from kitchen cabinets 
or tables than ever before in American 
homes. And because of the stress of the 
times no one objected; rather we took it 
gleefully as our part in the huge struggle, 
and gloried in our privations. We were 
conserving time and energy along with 
food-stuffs. 

But emergency living, like picnicking, 
should not be perpetual. It is quite 
evident that kitchen meal-serving has 
become rather a habit with many house- 
wives, loath to abandon the easiness 
thereof though the excuse for it be gone. 

Of course, in homes where the early, 
hurried breakfast is still a necessity 
that meal may be served wherever most 
handy, but a home-maker, whose duty 
it is to care for the health and comfort 
of her family, should religiously adhere 
to the good old custom of a dinner in 
the dining-room, with all its eye-satisfying 
accessories. Placing it there may cost 
her a certain number of extra steps, but 
they are well worth taking. Present 
comfort means much — for comfort and 
cheer aid digestion — and happy memory- 
making always pays. 

The years fly fast; changes come over- 
night, as it were. So let us reconstruct 
ourselves and our home-making, along 
with the larger reconstruction of national 
affairs, if perchance we have fallen into 
the lazy, war-excusable habit of kitchen 
serving. 



Keeping the Home Lights 

"Whatever you do, keep the lamp 
chimney clean. Everybody's eyes turn 
toward it the moment they enter the 
room of a night," counseled my wise 
older sister when we were young girls 
out on the farm, and a reading lamp was 
the center of the family circle. 

Since then, through observation, I 
have learned how important all our 
lighting arrangements are in a home. 
For the eyes of all do seek the light, 
though they may not do it consciously, 
nor would remember having done so. 
If there chance to be anything peculiar, 
thev do notice,' either to admire or dis- 
approve, and certainly if the "chimney" 
chances to be smoky or the window 
draperies torn — woe be to the re- 
sponsible one! 

Put dark, badly cracked shades up at 
the windows, and nothing you can do, 
otherwise, in furnishing the room, will 
remove the gloomy, poverty-stricken 
aspect. But replace them with new, 
light-colored shades, and there is a sense 
of cheer, cleanliness, and neatness that is 
worth more than all the expensive bric-a- 
brac one may accumulate. 

There are so many devices for lighting 
fixtures these days that one's taste is 
plainly exhibited by her choice; and 
since these come in all prices, no one is 
debarred from the beautiful because of 
small means. I have seen really artistic 
wicker and paper shades for electric 
bulbs in the five-and-ten-cent store. 
Simplicity, durability, and the right shade 
of color are to govern one's choice, con- 



367 



368 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sidering, of course, the furnishings already 
in the room. 

Window draperies, as the frame of the 
all-important daylight entrances, likewise 
may be inexpensive, but must be care- 
fully chosen. Laces are no longer in the 
best taste for ordinary rooms or homes. 
Better no draperies at all than dirty, 
would-be finery, or loud, gorgeous pat- 
terns that fairly stare at every comer. 
Sometimes, for various reasons, one may 
not be able to show her real taste in her 
selections of home furnishings; but she 
can keep the home lights clean, and 
cleanliness is both "next to godliness" 
and mighty near to beauty. l. m. c. 
* * * 

Lemon Pie 

EVERY housekeeper knows that a 
lemon pie may be a failure or a suc- 
cess according to the method of making. 

Have you ever had the experience of 
baking a lemon pie and having the 
filling become thinner the longer it was 
baked? This may occur if the main 
thickening agent is cornstarch or flour 
instead of eggs. 

The reason is this: the acid of the 
lemon with the heat changes the starch 
to sugar. To prevent this, do not add 
the lemon to the filling until you have 
finished cooking the filling. Place the 
filling in a baked crust. In other words, 
do not add the lemon to the filling and 
then cook for any great length of time. 

The following method of combining 
ingredients for a lemon pie will bring good 
results. 

Mix cornstarch and cold water and 
add to boiling water. Cook in double 
boiler until transparent. Mix the sugar 
and butter and add to the cornstarch 
mixture. Mix lemon juice and yolks of 
eggs, add to mixture and remove from 
fire. Place filling in baked crust. Cover 
with meringue, and brown in oven. 

The One-Crust Pie 

Stretch the pastry for the "one-crust 
pie" over the outside of the pie plate and 



press the edges firmly against the edge 
of the plate. Prick the center of the 
crust with a fork. 

The baked crust will be of the desired 
shape and can be easily removed from 
the pie plate and put on a large plate or 
platter ready for the filling. 

The above method is very simple and 
will save the housewife the disappoint- 
ment of the shrunken and misshapen one- 
crust pie. j. l. 

* * * 

Fruit as a Saver of Sugar 

TOO often in these enforced days of 
sugar saving (and from the dire 
prophecies of the grocerman yesterday 
as to a sugarless Christmas), the value of 
fruit in the diet is ignored, or is not even 
known. Fruit is a valuable item of table 
diet, rich in mineral ingredients, acids, and 
body-regulating substances. And you 
rarely see it on the table in the average 
house. It is only considered to be good 
between meals, or to cook with the addition 
of the valuable sugar; when, as a matter 
of fact, fruits, many of them, contain sugar 
that the body needs, and can be used a 
a substitute for numberless "sweets" we 
religiously consume. 

At the present time dates are plentiful 
and cheap. They contain a large per- 
centage of sugar. They can be used, and 
in the using of them the body will not 
require so much other sugar. 

Grapes are always good, and they are 
one of the most nutritious fruits known. 
In addition to sugar, which is present 
in large proportions, they contain many 
other body-building substances. Apples, 
bananas, oranges are good, though it is 
conceded that the latter are somewhat 
expensive. Yet when it is known that a 
single orange contains seventy-five calories 
of the odd twenty-five hundred to three 
thousand needed for the daily stoking of 
the bodily furnace, one can realize that 
three or four oranges would not do badly 
for lunch, and they would help clarify 
and clear out a system clogged up with 
too much pastry and sweets. A single 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



369 



apple also contains approximately seventy- 
five calories, and, like the orange, is a body 
regulator, containing in a bulkier and 
more generally "roughage" character a 
greater amount of cellulose. 

This year quinces have been fairly 
abundant, and they are excellent sugar 
savers if put up. Of course with them one 
must have sugar, and that is hard to get. 
But if the housewife can squeeze a little 
from her allowance from the grocer, she 
would do well to preserve a little of this 
excellent fruit. It will prove economical 
in the end, for it will take the place of 
sugar when that "sugarless" Christ- 
mas arrives. 

The apple is such an excellent article 
that I cannot refrain from coming back to 
it. They are not so expensive now, and 
they make an excellent dessert, either for 
dinner or for luncheon. Cooked as a 
breakfast dish they require less sugar than 
preserved fruits or prunes or cereals. 
As for a heavier dessert bananas and 
cream are excellent, or grapes with a few 
of the richer nuts, as Brazil nuts. They 
can, also, be served with any other kind of 
nut that one especially likes. It may not 
be elegant to serve peanuts, but the peanut 
contains much fat and is a good cold- 
weather fuel. B. T. 
* * * 

A Christmas Party 

AN easily arranged Christmas party 
that left not a dull moment in which 
to wonder what to do next was given 
last year. The guests were invited to 
dinner, and the feast itself was the tra- 
ditional one with no special features until 
the last course, when a fancy card was 
served to each guest, his name being on 
one side and directions for his conduct 
upon the other. The directions were 
something like this: "Look beneath 
the lamp in the drawing-room." "Take 
a peep into the lowest drawer in the guest- 
room bureau." "Open the sixth volume 
of Thackeray at the fourth page of the 
tenth chapter," etc., etc. Curiosity was 
at once awakened and no time was lost 



in following the instructions. In each 
spot indicated was another card telling 
where to go next, and there were ten 
places for each guest, their different 
localities being carefully calculated to 
give as much exercise as possible. It 
is easy to imagine the friendly scramble, 
the jolly confusion, and the ludicrous 
situations that would develop in the 
general relaxation of a Christmas at- 
mosphere. A very tall and stately 
clergyman was discovered sprawling full 
length on the floor, digging his way to- 
ward a card under the heavy, mahogany 
bookcase, while a short lady of rotund 
figure was found making the ascent of a 
chandelier in her anxiety to obtain her 
next commands. For the time being 
every one delighted in laying aside and 
completely forgetting his usual dignity. 
The tenth place indicated held the 
long-sought prize for each person : a gay- 
colored, small stocking filled with the 
usual Christmas equipment, — a tan- 
gerine, a pop-corn ball, a candy bag, a 
few nuts, and some pretty personal trifle 
for each guest. In addition there was some 
musical instrument from the five-and- 
ten-cent store. These were of all types, 
from a xylophone to a jew's-harp, and 
an impromptu orchestra was immediately 
organized which developed such un- 
suspected talents that Christmas hymns 
and Christmas carols were experimented 
with until long past midnight, m. j. h. 
* * * 

Use of Honey in Bread -Making 

HONEY may be used with satisfactory 
results in such breads as require 
sweetening. In fact, the combination is 
more pleasing than when molasses or sugar 
is used, especially if a delicately flavored 
honey be used. 

Bran Brown Bread 

A cup of whole wheat flour, half a cup 
of honey, one cup of sour milk, a teaspoon- 
ful of soda, one cup of bran, half a cup of 
raisins, and salt in proper amount. Sift 
together the flour, soda, and salt, and add 



370 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the other ingredients. Pour the dough 
into large cans, as baking-powder cans, 
place the lid on, and let steam in a kettle 
of water for two hours. Remove the 
lid and bake for ten minutes in a moder- 
ate oven. White flour may be used 
instead of whole wheat flour. This 
bread is especially nutritious, and can be 
used freely by any one with delicate 
stomach. 

Honey-and-Nut Bran Muffins 

Half a cup of honey, one cup of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of soda, a fourth tea- 
spoonful of salt, two cups of bran, a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, one cup 
and a half of milk, from a half to a cup 
of chopped nuts. Mix thoroughly the 
flour, bran, soda, and salt. Add the other 
ingredients and bake in gem muffin rings 
in a hot oven. This amount should 
make about sixteen large muffins. 

Honey Bread 

Take two cups of honey, four cups of 
rye flour, a teaspoonful of soda, four tea- 
spoonfuls of ainiseed, two teaspoonfuls of 
ginger, the yolks of two eggs, one-fourth 
a cup of brown sugar. Sift the flour with 
the soda and spices and add the other in- 
gredients. Put the dough in shallow 
buttered or greased pans and bake in a 
quick oven. 

Steamed Brown Bread 

One cup of corn meal, two cups of gra- 
ham flour, three-fourths a cup of honey, 
two cups of sour milk, a teaspoonful 
of salt, a heaping teaspoonful of soda, a 
tablespoonful of boiling water, and a cup 
of raisins. Mix together the meal, flour, 
and salt; add the sour milk and honey, 
and then the soda dissolved in the boiling 
water, and the raisins. Steam three 
hours in a covered receptacle, which 
should be not more than three-fourths 
full. A large baking-powder can answers 
very well, and one or more of these may 
be placed upright in a kettle or bucket 
half-filled with water that is kept boiling 



for the required time. When the steam- 
ing is finished, the receptacle should be 
opened and set in the stove to bake for 
ten minutes in order to dry off surplus 
moisture. h. f. g. 

* * * 

The Quince 

OUINCES can be canned for winter 
use and make a delicious dessert. 

Cut yellow, well-ripened fruit in 
halves, or thirds, removing the cores, 
then wash carefully, and put in granite 
kettle, cover with water and cook until 
pieces can be removed into cans without 
breaking; fill up with the juice as usual, 
excluding air, by running a silver knife 
around the inside of can. Then seal 
tight. 

When sugar is plenty, we add a little 
syrup to each kettle after nearly 
ready for can, as quinces will not become 
tender if cooked in syrup at first. When 
a dessert is needed in the winter, fill pie 
tins or use your glass baking dish and 
put each piece of quince in, core side up, 
fill cavities with sugar and bits of butter, 
pour over enough juice to nearly cover 
fruit as you would for baking apples; 
watch carefully while you bake them 
until well done and brown in color, the 
juice and sugar forming a jelly around the 
fruit. 

Sauce for Quinces 

Make your favorite white sauce, with 
cream instead of milk, a tablespoonful of 
butter and a pinch of salt, with a generous 
portion of sugar; cook and serve fruit and 
sauce hot, although we have enjoyed 
them cold. We can our quince juice. 
Seal up tight, using no sugar, then make 
into jelly later with barberries or cran- 
berries. A jelly beautiful in color and 
of fine flavor. s. b. b. 



Buy health insurance with an appro- 
priation of some of your time every day 
for open-air exercise. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose address and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. American Cookery, 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 4096. — "How can I make 
Mincemeat? 

"Please give a recipe for Lemon Pie with a 
crust on top." 

Mincemeat 

►" ■ ^AKE two pounds of lean beef from 
the neck, the round, or the shank, 



1 



put into a covered baking dish, 
and cook in a slow oven until tender. Let 
cool, put through food chopper, sprinkle 
with two teaspoonfuls of salt, and moisten 
with the juices that exuded while baking. 
Next, put one pound of beef suet from the 
kidney through the chopper, and pare, 
core, and chop enough sour apples to fill 
three cups. Mix these with the suet, and 
sprinkle the whole with another two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt. Add to the suet and 
apples one pound and one-half of raisins, 
stoned and chopped, one pound of cur- 
rants, thoroughly cleaned, and one- 
fourth pound of candied citron, very fine- 
chopped. Add to this mixture the 
chopped meat. Now grate one large 
nutmeg, and mix with two teaspoonfuls, 
each, of powdered cinnamon and mace, 
and one teaspoonful, each, of cloves and 
allspice. Blend this mixture with two 
pounds of sugar. Add the juice and 
grated yellow rind of three oranges and 
one lemon, mix with the chopped meat, 
suet, etc., and moisten the whole with 
sweet cider; add a cup or two of jelly, 



then slowly simmer for three-quarters to 
one hour. Fill the mixture into sterile 
glass jars, and proceed as for canned 
fruit. 

The old-fashioned mincemeat was 
preserved by the addition of brandy, and 
was thought best after it had stood for a 
year. 

Lemon Pie with a Top Crust 

Blend one tablespoonful of cornstarch 
with a little cold water; stir into one cup 
of boiling water, and cook until smooth. 
Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter with 
one cup of powdered sugar, and stir this 
into the first mixture; add one well- 
beaten egg, and cook until just creamy. 
Cool slightly, and stir in the grated yellow 
rind of one lemon, and the juice of the 
same. Pour into pie plate lined with 
pastry, put on top crust, and bake in a 
quick oven. 



Query No. 4097. — "I should like a recipe 
for Puffed Rice Brittle." 

Puffed Rice Brittle 

Cook in a smooth agate pan one cup of 
granulated sugar until it is a clear, 
golden-brown syrup. Stir into this one- 
half cup or more of the puffed rice, pre- 
viously heated in the oven until crisp. 
Pour on a slightly greased plate, allow to 
preferably quince, or preserved fruit of cool slightly, and mark in squares. 

any kind, or syrup from canning, or from 

sweet pickles. Put the whole in a. por- QuERY No 4098 _ « Please tell me how to 

celain kettle, let it come to a boil, and make Plain Mustard for a cafeteria." 

371 



372 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Plain Mustard 

Equal parts of powdered mustard and 
slightly warm water or milk, if blended to 
a smooth paste, will keep for a week. A 
quarter-teaspoonful of salt to every half- 
cup of liquid used is liked by some persons; 
others prefer the addition of the same 
quantity of sugar, which does not sweeten 
the mustard, but gives a milder flavor. 

The following is a more elaborate recipe 
for mustard, but one that is exceedingly 
good, and whose keeping qualities are 
excellent. 

Mustard to Keep Indefinitely 

Blend a half pound of powdered 
mustard with one-half cup of horse- 
radish vinegar; that is, vinegar strained 
from the horseradish root. Add a half- 
teaspoonful of salt, and a half-table- 
spoonful of Chili vinegar; that is, vine- 
gar in which chopped green peppers have 
been steeped for a week or more. This 
highly piquant mustard should be stored 
in wide-mouthed bottles, securely corked, 
and it will keep for as long as needed. 



Query No. 4099. — "Have you a formula for 
Chocolate Sauce such as is used at the soda 
fountains, which will keep a week or more 
without sugaring?" 

Chocolate Sauce That Will Not 
Sugar 

We do not know what is used at the 
soda fountains, and doubtless many of 
them have their own private recipes, but 
a chocolate sauce that will not sugar can 
be made by boiling equal parts of water 
and sugar with the addition of a quarter- 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar to every 
cup of sugar, until the mixture is slightly 
syrupy, and then adding one ounce and 
one-half of grated chocolate melted 
over hot water. Or if corn syrup is used 
instead of water and sugar, the mixture 
will not sugar. 



stated by the Bureau of Nutrition Inves- 
tigations at Washington to be practically 
identical with that of butter; that is, 
a pound of oleomargarine yields the same 
number of heat calories as a pound of 
butter. Its vitamine content, however, 
is not so high. The margarine that con- 
tains actual butter-fat, or beef-fat, con- 
tains the vitamine present in these fats 
according to the proportion in which they 
were used in the manufacture; but no 
brand of margarine yields as much of 
these valuable growth-producing vita- 
mines as does butter. This does not 
mean that this wholesome and economical 
butter substitute should be looked on with 
disfavor; it only means that, when it is 
used instead of butter, other foods which 
yield the lacking vitamine should be 
added more liberally to the diet. Such 
foods are milk, lettuce and other greens; 
also eggs and a few other foods, but the 
most important are the first two men- 
tioned, milk and greens. 



Query No. 4100. — '"How does Oleomar- 
garine compare in food value with Butter?" 

The fuel value of oleomargarine is 



Query No. 4101. — "Please give a recipe for 
Icing to be used with a pastry bag and tube. " 

We can give you three recipes, varying 
in the ease of making. 

1 . Uncooked Ornamental Icing 

Stir into the unbeaten white of one egg 
as much confectioners' sugar as is needed 
to make a paste that will hold its shape 
when molded with the fingers. This 
icing may be flavored with a couple of 
spoonfuls of lemon juice, but the addition 
of this calls for more sugar. A similar 
icing of a pretty yellow tint is made by 
using the yolk instead of the white of the 
egg, flavoring with lemon, and adding a 
spoonful of the grated yellow rind of an 
orange. These icings can be pressed 
through the star and other patterns of 
tube; they are quickly made and effective, 
but must be used quickly, or the icing 
will harden too much. 

2. Cooked Ornamental Icing 

Boil two cups of sugar and one cup of 
water until the syrup forms a soft ball 



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wh\j have 
sogg\j 

fried foods? 




Get Crisco at your grocer's in 
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one pound sizes and larger. 




Why should you use plenty of 
fat in the kettle for perfect 
deep frying? 

Why is it that you can use 
the same Crisco again 
and again, even after frying 
onions? 

These questions, with scores 
of others about all kinds of 
cooking, as well as the serving 
of meals, are asked and an- 
swered in "The Whys of Cook- 
ing", an authoritative book by 
Janet McKenzie Hill, founder 
of The Boston Cooking School, 
and editor of "American Cook- 
ery". Also contains many new 
recipes. Illustrated in color. 
108 pages. A book you will 
use every day. Sent postpaid 
for only 10 cents in postage 
stamps. Address Dept. A-12, 
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It is unnecessary to serve or eat soggy- 
fritters or doughnuts or croquettes. Crisco 
will fry them for you so that the centers 
are really baked — dry and tender and 
fluffy — inside a delicious, crisp brown shell. 



vege- 



Crisco is a modern, wholesome, 
table cooking fat, made by a special 
process so that it gives up its heat very 
quickly, forming a protecting crust the 
instant the food is dropped into the kettle. 
In this way, all the fat is kept out of the 
food, and all of the flavor in. 

After the frying is finished there is almost 
as much Crisco left in the kettle as you 
had when you started — good proof that 
very little has been absorbed or cooked 
away. Not a drop has to be wasted. 
Just strain it and use it again and again. 

Crisco is better for all cooking 

Crisco is so white, so pure, so delicate, so 
tasteless and so odorless that you will enjoy 
using it for all cooking. It makes wonder- 
fully flaky pastries and biscuits. It makes 
delicious cakes that taste as if made with 
butter, but at half of butter cost. Try Crisco, 
and you'll want no other cooking fat. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

373 



374 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



when dropped into cold water. If you 
use a sugar thermometer, it will indicate 
anywhere from 236° to 240° F. for this 
stage, but practical experience is just as 
good as the thermometer. The syrup 
should then be poured in a thin stream 
on the stiff-beaten white of one egg, and 
the whole beaten until thick enough to 
retain its shape. This icing does not 
harden quite so soon as the first, nor 
when it hardens is it quite so hard, but 
it should be used within a reasonable 



time. 



3. Fondant Icing 



Cook together in a smooth agate sauce- 
pan two cups of sugar and three-quarters 
of a cup of water. Stir until boiling 
begins, then add a quarter-teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar, and wipe off with a 
damp cloth any particles of sugar thrown 
up against the sides of the saucepan dur- 
ing the boiling. Cover and cook five 
minutes. Remove cover, wipe sides of 
saucepan again, and cook to soft-ball 
stage as in preceding recipe. Pour 
syrup on a large platter, or a marble 
slab, and let stand until a dent remains 
on the surface when pressed with a spoon. 
Work the syrup from the sides to the 
center of the dish with a spoon, prefera- 
bly wooden, until the whole is a white, 
creamy mass, then knead it like bread 
until of the right stiffness. The mixture 
should be entirely free from crystals, and 
as smooth as lard. This can be packed 
into small bowls or wide-mouthed jars, 
securely covered with waxed paper, and 
will keep for two weeks or more in the 
refrigerator. It may be used at once for 
piping, but is better if let stand for a day. 
This is the finest kind of ornamental 
icing. 



Query No. 4102. — "Please give some recipes 
for Ice-cream Sauces such as a good Bittersweet, 
also Fudge Sauce and Butterscotch Sauce, also 
one using marshmallows." 

Bittersweet Sauce 

Add to one cup of sour cream one- 
fourth cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls 



of lemon juice, and the grated yellow 
rind of one lemon. Then beat and beat 
and beat. 

A recipe for fudge sauce appeared on 
page 294 of the October number, and 
one for butterscotch sauce on page 296 
of the same number. A marshmallow 
sauce is make by partially dissolving in 
either fudge, butterscotch, or any other 
hot, sweet sauce, as many marshmallows 
as you please. 



Query No. 4103. — "What causes my White 
Bread to Crack at the sides during baking? 

"What makes the Sponge sometimes look 
yellow? 

"Why is the bread sometimes Coarse in 
Texture? 

"Why does bread sometimes have a yeasty 
smell and taste? 

"Why is my Chocolate Icing sometimes 
glossy and sometimes not? 

"Please give recipes for a glossy boiled 
Frosting, also one for Fudge, and one for Divinity 
Fudge. 

"Give directions for making Pop Corn Balls 
that will not stick to the fingers, and let me know 
the cause of their sticking. 

"Will you tell me how to use a Sugar Meter, 
and whether it -is used only in boiling syrup for 
canning?" 

It gives us pleasure to answer these 
interesting and intelligent questions, and 
to give in each case, to the best of our 
ability, the "reason why" demanded by 
this housekeeper. 

Why Bread Cracks at the Sides 
During Baking 

Sometimes bread cracks at the sides 
because the oven is too hot, but more 
often because too much flour was used in 
the mixing. The experienced house- 
keeper learns to knead her bread with as 
little flour as possible, no more than two 
cups and one-half (level) to one cup of 
water. Begin by kneading very lightly, 
gently manipulating the dough with the 
tips of the fingers until the gluten has 
taken up the moisture, then the pressure 
may be increased by degrees. This 
skillful "handling" of the wet mass of 
dough until it becomes smooth and elastic 
is gained after a little experience, but the 
point to avoid is the use of too much flour, 



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The 
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Measure 




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with 
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This is the season of baking 
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&ENERALCHEMICALCQ 

FOOD DEPARTMENT 

NEW YORK 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

375 



376 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and the point to strive for is to see just 
how little flour you can use and knead 
bread that will not stick to the board. 

Cause of a Yellow Sponge 



Ki 



This is not easy to account for unless 
all the circumstances of the mixing, the 
material of the utensils, the nature of the 
water, etc., were fully known. The best 
bread flour is not white, like pastry flour, 
but is of a decidedly creamy tint, and this 
tint always appears deeper in the sponge 
than in the dough. William Jago, a 
great authority on bread-making, says 
that the finest Hungarian flour makes a 
sponge of decidedly yellow tint. The 
presence of excess of water, as in the 
sponge, seems to deepen the natural tint 
of the flour; this yellow color would be 
hardly perceptible in the baked loaf, or 
would give only the rich creaminess so 
desirable in good home-made bread. 

Cause of Coarse Texture 

This results from insufficient kneading, 
or too rapid rising, or both. If the 
process of "cutting down" is repeated 
twice or even three times, instead of once 
as is usually done, the bread will be of a 
much finer grain and a better flavor, but 
it^will grow dry sooner. 

Causes of a Yeasty Taste 

Quick-process bread, that is, bread 
made with two or three compressed yeast 
cakes to a pint of liquid, often smells and 
tastes of the yeast while it is warm from 
the oven, but not, as a rule, after it is a 
day old. Bread made with an insuffi- 
ciency of salt is also apt to taste yeasty — 
one teaspoonful of salt to three cups of 
flour is a good proportion. When bread 
is baked in very large loaves, it often tastes 
of the yeast, since the size and thickness 
of the loaf prevents the destruction of the 
yeast plant by the heat of the oven. 

Why Chocolate Icing Loses Its 
Gloss 

If a chocolate icing is beaten too much 
beforespreading, the gloss will be lost. 



It should be spread while it is yet a little 
"runny," so that it flows of itself to a 
great extent over the surface of the cake. 
Sometimes if a knife-blade, dipped into 
hot water, is used to smooth the icing, it 
will restore the gloss. 

Glossy Boiled Frosting 

Boil together two cups of sugar and 
one cup of water until, when a spoonful 
of the mixture is dropped into cold water, 
it will form a soft ball. Pour this syrup 
in a thin stream on the stiff-beaten 
whites of either one or two eggs, beating 
all the while. Continue beating until 
frosting is thick enough to spread, but 
not thick enough for the pastry-tube work 
given on another page. 

Fudge 

Plain fudge is made by boiling together 
two cups of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and three-quarters of a cup of 
milk, to the soft-ball stage (238° to 
240° F.). Remove from fire, let cool a 
little, and beat with spoon until thick and 
creamy. Pour into a greased pan, and 
when hard enough mark in squares. 
Different kinds of fudge can be made by 
using brown sugar, maple sugar, by 
adding chopped nuts just before beating, 
or by cooking in the syrup from one to 
two ounces of scraped chocolate, or one- 
quarter cup of cocoa. 

Divinity Fudge 

This is made by pouring a chocolate 
or other fudge while the syrup is in the 
soft-ball stage, on the 'beaten whites of 
one or two eggs, as for frosting, and then 
beating until thick and creamy. 

To make fudge is a simple thing, but 
we believe your difficulty is due to the 
beating part of the process. If you do 
not beat long enough, the fudge will not 
harden; if you beat too long, it will be 
too hard and dry. In the last case, it 
can be melted over hot water, or cooked 
again in half the original amount of water, 
and you can try the beating over again. 
A very little experience will tell you when 
it is just right. 



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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

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AMERICAN COOKERY 



Why Pop Corn Balls Are Sticky 

Pop corn balls are sticky when the 
syrup is not boiled long enough. The 
syrup for these should be boiled until it 
hardens into a brittle mass when dropped 
into cold water. This will be at about 
270° F. 

The sugar meter indicates the specific 
gravity, or density, of the syrup. It is 
useful in canning, but not necessary. 
You had better write to the manufact- 
urer for directions in detail as to its use, 
for there are different kinds on the market, 
and the standards used in figuring the 
density are not always the same, that is, 
the standard may be 1, 10, 100, and I 
have seen one where the norm was 1,000. 
I believe a sugar thermometer, Fahren- 
heit, would be useful to you, if you do a 
great deal of cooking of sugar; though 
it is not difficult to learn the tests by the 
rule-of-thumb fashion of dropping into 
cold water and observing how the syrup 
"hairs," etc. 






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New Books 



The Story of Milk. By Johan D. 
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This book deals with the production 
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The handling of milk for city supply, the 
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the making of butter, cheese, ice cream, 
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Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
378 



Ai> V l^XV 1 lOl^lVXl^lX 1 o 



Owe icwy to beat 




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Tomato Sauce Recipes" (Publication No. 
689) and learn over 100 simple ways to 
practice real food economy. It is free. 

Address Department R 

CALIFORNIA PACKING CORPORATION 

San Francisco, California 



flellJlonte 



BRAND 

QUALITY 



Tomato 
sauce 



vuimuiiiuiiiiiii3i: 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

379 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




TECO 

SELF-RISING 

Pancake 

and Buckwheat 

Flour 

It's in the Flour, 



Hot cakes! In a minute! 

Made with Teco pancake and buckwheat 

flout, 

Wheat cakes! Waffles! Gems! 

Make the finest easily and quickly with 
Teco pancake flour and cold water. 

Buckwheat cakes! 

Tender, delicious, digestible. Just add 
cold water to Teco buckwheat flour. 

For our new buttermilk book write to 

THE EKENBERG CO. 

506 Cambridge St., Cortland, N. Y. 

Sawteb Crystal Blue Co., N. E. Agts. 

88 Broad Street Boston, Mass. 




DEERFOOT FARM 
SAUSAGE 

Made in the same old-fashioned 
way. Only the tenderest, leanest 
parts of the pig — chopped not too 
fine — with spicy herbs to lend 
piquant flavor — that's the genuine. 



Flavor and quality 
have made Deerfoot 
Farm Sausage famous. 
Be sure you get the 
genuine. 



We prize the name 
Deerfoot too highly 
ever to let it stand 
for anything but the 
best. 



No other sausage has that distinctive 
taste. And you may be sure that every- 
thing that goes into the making of Deer- 
foot Farm Sausage is of the highest quality. 

Sold in 1-pound links in parchment packages; 

1-pound boxes of sausage meat and 2 and 

4 pound bags of sausage meat, 

SOLD BY ALL GOOD DEALERS 

DEERFOOT FARM, SOUTHBOROUGH, MASS. 



cook-book comes to hand in attractive 
cloth binding, uniform with the "Li- 
brary of Home Economics." The plan 
of the course or book remains the same, 
i. e., seasonable menus with recipes, 
followed, by directions for preparing the 
whole meal and bringing it onto the table 
at the desired time. 

Now that the meal has finally been 
adopted as the basis for the teaching of 
cooking in many schools, this is a timely 
book for teachers. It is particularly help- 
ful to beginners in cooking, for the difficult, 
part of home cooking is to prepare and 
bring through the various dishes at the 
same time. The book will prove useful 
to experienced housekeepers in helping to 
answer the ever-recurring question "What 
shall we have to eat?" and in suggesting 
new dishes. 

Each of the twelve chapters contains 
one or more menus and directions for 
special holiday dinners, luncheons, and 
suppers, together with excellent special 
articles on dish-washing, fireless cooking, 
planning meals, labor-saving equipment, 
etc. 

In this series of lessons is presented a 
systematic correspondence course in the 
cooking of meals, with detailed directions, 
not only for cooking the separate dishes, 
but also for preparing and serving each 
meal as a whole. 

A good deal of valuable information is 
to be found in this volume: from it one 
can learn much about the art of cooking 
in the home. 



Teco Pop Corn Crackers 



\ cup melted short- 
ening 
^ cup cold water 



2 cups Teco Pancake 
or Buckwheat flour 

1 cup popped corn, put 
through the food- 
chopper 

Combine the ingredients in the order 
given, toss on a floured board, roll thin, 
cut in any desired shape, and bake about 
eight minutes in a quick oven. Serve 
with soups or salads. These are a most 
delicious as well as a laxative food. Bran 
may be substituted for the pop corn. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

380 



t\LJ V SLIK 1 10IL1V1H1N 1 ^ 




: ine Christmas Cake 



Twenty-four Years ^§^ of Reputation 




7 




Prepared [Tlot Se(f-7lising) 






'Cake Secrets" 



Preferred by Housewives for 24 yeara 

For twenty-four years, Swans Down Cake Flour has improved home 
baking. Unlimited time and effort has been spent testing the possi- 
bilities of this specially prepared cake flour. Cakes are baked — scores 
of them — right at the factory, so that at all times the wonderful 
baking qualities of Swans Down may be intact. 

Insuring against loss and disappointment through cake failures, 
Swans Down costs but a few cents for every cake. Try it with any 
recipe! 

Lighter, whiter, finer, better cake — pie — pastries — perfect^every 
time. Any good grocer sells Swans Down. 

'his book of valuable recipes I GL E H EART BRUT H t. R S 

Dept. AC EVANSVILLE Established 1856 INDIANA 

Also manufacturers of Swans Down Wheat Bran, Nature's Laxative Food 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 

381 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




«W 



for breakfast 

these nipping mornings — give the family piping 
hot cakes — and plenty of Uncle John's Syrup. 
Uncle John's is pure and wholesome — made from 
finest cane and maple syrups — blended. Good in 
a hundred different ways — try it. — 

Put up in 4 convenient sizes. 
Order a can today. 

New England Maple Syrup Company 



Winter Hill Station 



BOSTON, MASS. 



Cream Whipping Made 
Easy and Inexpensive 

^ REMO- y ESCO 

Whips Thin Cream 

or Half Heavy Cream and Milk 

or Top of the Milk Bottle 

It whips up as easily as heavy cream 
and retains its stiffness. 

Every caterer and housekeeper 
wants CREMO-VESCO. 
Send for a bottle today. 



Housekeeper's size, I £oz. , .30 prepaid 
Caterer's size, l6oz., $1.00 -- 
(With full directions.) 



Cremo-Vesco Company 

*31 EAST 23rd ST.. BROOKLYN. N. Y. 



Out of the Basement 

Concluded from page 349 

subjects, but only recently have J:hey 
begun to consider how all this may 
carry over into the field of Home Eco- 
nomics. Many of the problems which 
they use for teaching English, mathe- 
matics, and other subjects have their 
origin in the home environment. It is 
not exaggeration to say that no subject 
lends itself so readily to the problem- 
project method of teaching as does 
home-making with its infinite problems 
of real life. 

Home Economics too often stays 
willingly in the basement and lets the 
rest of the school go its way untouched 
by the influence for better homes, better 
food, and better clothing, which this 
department exerts upon a chosen few. 
A stranger visiting a school might never 
know that the Home Economics De- 
partment exists unless he is especially 
conducted to that Department. Aca- 
demic teachers have taught for months 
in high schools without knowing just 
where the Home Economics Department 
is located. 

Not only is it time to move the stoves 
and tables bodily to the upper floors, 
where the environment is more conducive 
to the teaching of wholesome home 
ideals, but more important than this is 
the need for bringing the influence for 
better homes, better food, and better 
clothing up into the main corridors of 
the building, where all may benefit from 
the daily contact. 

Splendid charts on "How the High 
School Girl Should Dress" grace the 
bulletin boards in the basement sewing 
room, at the same time that the principal 
is deploring the fact that, for the main part, 
the high school girls dress beyond their 
means. Forceful charts for teaching bet- 
ter food-habits hang on the kitchen walls 
until they lose their value with the few 
who see them every day, while statistics 
tell us that among school children one 
out of every five is under weight. Too 
often a splendid class in dietetics in the 
basement makes no effort to influence 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

382 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




If you would have each meal dainty and dis- 
nctive as well as wholesome and nourishing, 
Iways have Cox's Gelatine on hand! 

An unusual salad of fruit and nuts, a savory 
oup or dainty relish — all these can be made 
lluring to the eye and tempting to the appetite ! 
^earn the secrets of some of the cleverest chefs 
nd use Cox's Gelatine! 

Unflavored and unsweetened there is no limit 
5 ways in which this excellent Gelatine can 
>e used ! 

And then desserts ! Puddings, custards, blar.c 
oange, ice cream — all kinds of fascinating Gela- 
ine desserts can be made quickly and easily 
vith Cox's Gelatine. 

Our "Manual of Gelatine Cookery" will give 
rou many helpful hints. Send for a free copy 
oday. 




Instant Powdered 

GELATINE 

[HE COX GELATINE COMPANY 

Dept. D, 100 Hudson Street, New York 




b 




Delightful Flavor! 
Extra Strength! 



Nothing counts so much in the making 
of desserts, candies, frosting, cake, 
and ice-cream as the flavor. 
Use Bee Brand Flavoring Extracts 
and be sure of getting the best. They 
combine delightful flavor with a 
strength that makes their use an 
economy. 

Bee Brand Flavoring Extracts 

include vanilla — made only from the 
choicest Mexican bean and of the 
proper age to give a delicate delicious 
flavor — lemon, orange, rose, almond, 
cinnamon, celery, ginger, nutmeg, and 
peppermint. 

When you buy Extracts be sure to 
insist on Bee Brand and get the highest 
quality, full strength and flavor — ■ 
with the guarantee of absolute purity. 

McCORMICK AND COMPANY 

BALTIMORE, MD. 

(Importers and Manufacturers 

Proprietors of the Famous Banquet Tea) 

We will send you our Bee Brand Manual of Cookery o» 
receipt of 50c ia cash or stamps. Write also for our 
free booklets, giving interesting facts concerning spices, 
teas, and flavoring extracts. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

383 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



I can cook but 
I can't bake 



WRONG! You can bake. Perfectly 
delicious pastries, cakes, breads — every- 
thing. As well as anybody. No matter 
what your experience. The whole secret of 
baking is' getting the right oven temperature. 
Whhh you can't help but get — exactly — 
always — with the 

Taylor Home Set 

The Taylor Oven Thermometer ($2.00) for bak- 
ing. The Taylor Candy Thermometer ($1.50) 
for boiling. The Taylor Sugar Meter ($1.00) 
for preserving and canning. 

Write for the three Taylor Recipe Books. 
They tell you the exact temperatures in figures 
not only for their own but for all recipes. 

Ta ylor^ Instrument j .Com panies 

ROCHESTER/ N. Y. "* ' "" 



Tf your dealer can't 
supply the Taylor 
Home Set or will not 
order for you, mail 
$4.50 (price of com- 
plete set) direct to us 
with d tiler's name 
and it will be sent you 
>re >ai 1. (Prices in 
Canada and Far West 
proportionately 
higher.) 

AAS 




V 



=Domestic Science 

Home-study Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children 

For Homemakers and Mothers; professional 
courses for Teachers, Dietitians, Institution 
Managers, Demonstrators, Nurses, "Graduate 
Housekeepers" Caterers, etc. 

"The Profession of Home-making." 100 
page handbook, free. Bulletins: "Free-hand 
Cooking," "Food Values," "Seven-Cent 
Meals," "Family Finance." — 10 cents each. 

American School of Home Economics 
(Charted in 1915) 503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111. 



J) 



GRANNY'S SECRET 

Gake Patter 




Send for 

Gift 
Catalog 

There is a difference in the lightness 

of cake. The kind granny used to make is long 

remembered — the best. Perhaps you have some friend who takes 

pride in her cake making. This cake beater cannot be beat is the 

universal verdict by all who try it once. 60c. 

Send for our catalog showing decorated kitchen utensils of olden 
times. Gifts for young housekeepers, weddings, showers, bridge 
parties. Gifts for the kitchen attractive. There is no 
doubt a Pohlson dealer in your town. Get acquainted 
and find the new and interesting. Gift and specialty/ 
shops should send for catalog of thoughtful little gifts!| 
which will be forwarded upon application. 

POHLSON GIFT SHOPS, Dept. 25, Pawtucket, R. I. 




the food-habits of the students, who daily 
select their food at the school, cafeteria. 
Out of the basement or out of the Home 
Economics Department, wherever it be 
located, should come charts, slogans, and 
suggestive combinations of foods that, 
appearing on the bulletin boards or con- 
spicuously in the school lunch room, would 
tend to educate the entire student body 
in better food and clothing habits. . 

Why shouldn't the class that studies 
house decoration take an active interest 
in the kind of pictures that hang in the 
assembly room, and in the way they are 
hung? In fact, is it too much to say that 
every high-school class in House Decora- 
tion would go a long way toward proving 
its educative and practical value to the 
student body and faculty, if it left its 
mark in the school by making some room 
or corner of the building more harmonious 
and comfortable? 

After all, "By their works ye shall 
know them." This Out of the Basement 
Movement is apparent, here and there, all 
over the country. In one High School an 
undernourished child was studied and 
treated for a year by a dietetics class. 
Systematic campaigns for appropriate 
dress on the part of the high-school girl are 
carried on in many schools by means of 
charts placed on the main bulletin board, 
by style-shows put on in the assembly 
room, or by short articles contributed to 
the local newspapers. Exhibits planned, 
advertised, and executed by the students, 
to which the mothers are invited, and 
where tea is served, are a common occur- 
rence in one school. For one year a 
sophomore dietetics class prepared milk 
for an undernourished baby, belonging to a 
poor family in the community,, and de- 
livered it daily to the home. High- 
school students studying dietetics are 
going into the lower grades and working 
with the grade teachers on the under- 
weight problem, teaching in four-minute 
talks, and in the simplest terms possible, 
the fundamental health habits-. 

It is evident that Home Economics 
won't stay in the basement. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
384 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




SNOW 




ssttr 





Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

385 



AMUKIUAIN CUUJViLKI 



1 ■— ■—■ ■ »■ . ■■ . I ." 



■■-""'■' '■•■'■>-*n 



Goody 'Goody! 



,,# 



•^•t 



*lfc 



^ 



*?* 



\r* 






m 



*"s< 



>* J 



MAPLEINE FUDGE 

This will be a real treat for 
the youngsters — something a 
little different with a delicate 
mapley flavor. 

In making candies of all kinds and 
icings for cakes you'll find that — 



MAPLEINE 

yAeGo/cte/i^/avor 



is a deliciously rich flavoring. Use it like 
any other flavoring, though less is required. 
Does not cook or freeze out. 
To Make Instant Syrup Mapleine is truly 
wonderful — simply dissolve gran- 
ulated sugar in hot water and use 
Mapleine to flavor and color. 
Mapleine contains no maple sugar, 
syrup nor sap, but produces a 
taste similar to maple. 

Grocers Sell Mapleine 

2 oz. bottle 35c. Canada 50c. 
4c. stamp and trade mark from 
Mapleine carton will bring the 
Mapleine Cook Book of 200 
recipes. 

Crescent Mfg. Company 

323 Occidental Avenue 
Seattle, Wash. 



188 



hSBS" 



i 



SEVEN-CENT MEALS *i r 50 p -„ : w ^ 

meals with recipes and directions for preparing each. This 
48 pp. Bulletin sent for 10c or FREE for names of two 
friends who may be interested in our Domestic Science Courses. 

Am. School Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St., Chicago 



The Silver Lining 

Mary Had a Little Lamb 

Mary had a little lamb, 

About three pounds or so, 
And Mary did her best to see 

How far that lamb would go. 

She broiled it first and served it hot 

With sauce of Worcestershire, 
Then boiled the bones and made from them 

Some cups of bouillon clear. 

From all the scraps did Mary cook 

A wondrous tasty stew, 
But when she warmed it up next day, 

She called it a ragout. 

"This lamb, what makes us love it so?" 

Her eager children cry; 
"Oh, Mother is some cook, you know," 

Their father did reply. 

— Mary Barron Washburn. 



The Tactician 

The Vicar {meeting inebriated par- 
ishioner)'. "Oh, Pat, and I thought you 
were a teetotaler." 

The Parishioner: "Shure, an' that I 
am — ■ hie — yer Riverence, but norra- 
bigoted one." — ■ The Tatler. 



Disraeli was much troubled by literary 
aspirants sending him their books to 
read. The formula he adopted in ac- 
knowledging was: "Dear Sir, or Madam, 
I am much obliged for your book which I 
will lose no time in reading." 



A Sunday-school teacher in London was 
talking to her class about Solomon and 
his wisdom. "When the Queen of Sheba 
came and laid jewels and fine raiment be- 
fore Solomon, what did he say?" she 
asked presently. One small girl who 
evidently had had experience in such mat- 
ters promptly replied, "Ow much d'yer 
want for the lot?" 



m 



Trade Mark Begietered. 

Gluten Flour. 

40% GLUTEN 




Guaranteed to comply in all respects »o 
standard requirements of U. 8. Dept. of 
Agriculture. 
Manufactured by 
FARWELL & RHINES 
Wstertown. N. Y. 





Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
386 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




tt 



-»-4 

3 



HOME 'MADE CANDIES 

A Christmas Suggestion by MRS. KNOX 

For Christmas I suggest home-made candies, and give below recipes that are easy 
and economical to make with home materials. These candies will please the family — 
grown-ups as well as children — for they are pure, wholesome, delicious sweets, and so 
attractive that they are particularly suitable for gift-giving. 

KNOX 

SPARKLING 

GELATINE 



FRENCH DAINTIES (CANDY) 

Soak two envelopes Knox Sparkling Gelatine in 

one cup cold water five minutes. Add one and one- 
half cups boiling water. When dissolved add four 

cups granulated sugar and boil slowly for fifteen 

minutes. Divide into two equal parts. When 

somewhat cooled add to one part one teaspoonful 

extract of cinnamon. To the other part add one- 
half teaspoonful extract of cloves, and color with 

the coloring tablet found in package. Pour into 

shallow tins that have been dipped in cold water. 

Let stand over night; turn out and cut into squares. 

Roll in fine granulated or powdered sugar and let 

stand to crystallize. Vary by using different flavors 

such as lemon, orange, peppermint, wintergreen, 

etc., and different colors, and adding chopped nuts, 

dates or figs. 

Sugar Saving Suggestion: Syrup may be used in these candy recipes 
replacing each cupful of sugar with three-fourths of a cupful of syrup. 

ANGEL CHARLOTTE DESSERT 
This dainty dessert will add a happy ending to any Christmas dinner 



COCOANUT MARSHMALLOWS 

Soak one envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine in 
three-fourths cupful of water five minutes. Put 
two cups granulated sugar and one-half cup water 
in saucepan, bring to the boiling point and let 
boil until syrup will spin a thread when dropped 
from tip of spoon. Add soaked gelatine and let 
stand until partially cooled; then add few grains 
salt and one teaspoonful vanilla. Beat until 
mixture becomes white and thick. Pour into 
granite pans, thickly dusted with powdered sugar, 
having mixture one inch in depth. Sprinkle with 
grated cocoanut. Let stand in a cool place until 
thoroughly chilled. Turn on a board, cut in cubes 
and roll in powdered sugar. This recipe makes 
about one hundred marshmallows. Nuts, choco- 
late, fruit juices in place of part of the water, or 
candied fruits chopped may be added. Dates 
stuffed with this confection are delicious. 



% envelope Knox Sparkling Gelatine 
Yl dozen rolled stale macaroons 

1 dozen marshmallows, cut in small pieces 

2 tablespoonfuls chopped candied cherries 
l /i pound blanched and chopped almonds 

1 cup sugar 

1 pint heavy cream % cup boiling water 

-1 teaspoonful vanilla X A cup cold water 

Soak the gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling 
water and add sugar. When mixture is cold, add 



cream, beaten until stiff, almonds, macaroons, 
marshmallows and candied cherries. Flavor with 
vanilla. Turn into a mold, first dipped in cold 
water, and chill. Remove from mold and serve 
with angel cake. This dessert may be made more 
elaborate by cutting the top from an angel cake 
or stale sponge cake, and removing some of the 
inside, leaving a case with three-fourths inch walls, 
then filling case with mixture, replacing top of 
cake, covering with frosting, and garnishing with 
candied cherries and blanched almonds. 



c/VOX jr^^-OWrViySVaj, 



KNOX 




GElatiHE 

CHARLES 5 KMX OUTiNC C0.hk. . 




Quantity with Quality in KNOX, the "-l-to-l" 
Gelatine, for each package makes FOUR PINTS 
of jelly — four times more than the ready- 
prepared brands. 

Send for additional candy recipes and my "Dainty 
Desserts" and "Food Economy" books. FREE, if 
you mention your grocer's name and address. Any 
domestic science teacher can have sufficient gelatine 
for her class, if she will write me on school stationery, 
stating quantity and when needed. 
"Whenever a recipe calls for Gelatine — it means Knox" 





W \L?' 



U 

w 






KJNOX 

SPARKLING 



V'i- 



I 



- 



KNOX GELATINE 

107 Knox Avenue 



Mrs. Charles B. Knox 

Johnstown, N. Y. 



.-'^aa^^' SX3 *c*BztF& *&> 



GElatinE 

MCMt •> 

CHARLES B.WWXGEUTMr. CO inc. 

J0«*ST0*mJt.T JttJh- i 
"L OCT WEIGHT wnt vvnv,i 



V^ '^teS^ ^flgg*' 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

387 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



SERVICE TABLE WAGON 




rr serves roun home and 

SAVES YOUR TIME THAT 
IS PRACTICAL ECONOMY 



Large Broad Wide Table 
'Top — Removable Glass 
Service Tray — Double 
Drawer — Double 
Handles— Large Deep 
Undershelves — "Scien- 
tifically Silent" Rubber 
Tired Swivel Wheels. 

A high grade piece of furni- 
ture surpassing anything yet at- 
tempted for general Utility. 
ease of action, and absolute 
noiselessness. WRITE NOW 

for a descriptive pamphlet 
and Dealer s Name. 
COMBINATION PRODUCTS CO. 

504J Cunard Bldg. Chicago, III. 



ROBERTS 

Lightning Mixer 
Beats Everything 

Beats eggs, whips cream, churns butter, mixes 
gravies, desserts and dressings, and does the 
work in a few seconds. Blends and mixes 
malted milk and all drinks. 

Simple and Strong. Saves 'work — easy 
to clean. Most necessary household 
article. Used by 200,000 housewives. 

A USEFUL CHRISTMAS GIFT 

If your dealer does not carry this, we will 
send prepaid quart size $1.00, pint size 75c. 
Far West and South, quart $1.25, pint 90c. 
Kecipe book free with mixer. 

NATIONAL CO. 1 es Oliver st„ boston, mass. 



SALAD SECRETS 



100 recipes. Brief but complete. 15c by mail. 100 Meat- 
less recipes 15c. 50 Sandwich recipes 15c. All three 30c. 
B. R. BRIGGS, 250 Madison St., Brooklyn N . Y. 



Delicious Whipped Cream 

can be easily made from ordinary Table 
Cream by adding a few drops of 

Farrand's Cream Whip 

Send us 30c for full ounce bottle if your grocer 
does not carry it. 

Liberal samples free to instructors in Domestic Science. 

THE CREAM WHIP CO. 

Cleveland, Ohio 



USED 

DAILY IN A 

MILLION 

HOMES 



Colburn's 

gri @Ited Label 

Spices 

The A.Colburn Co., 
Philadelphia,U.SA 



The Graduate Houskeeeper 

THE demand for expert assistance in private 
homes cannot be supplied. Salaries range 
from $60 to $100 a month, or more, with 
full living expenses, comfortable quarters, and 
an average of eight hours a day "on duty." 
Trained graduate housekeepers, placed by us, are 
given the same dignified social recognition as 
trained graduate nurses^ 

Here is your opportunity — our new home- 
study course for professional housekeepers will 
teach you to become an expert in the selection 
and preparation of food, in healthful diet and 
food values, in marketing and household ac- 
counts, in the management of the cleaning, 
laundry work, mending, child care and training, 
— in all the manifold activities of the home. 
When you graduate we place you in a satis- 
factory position without charge. Some posi- 
tions are non-resident, others part-time. 

The training is based on our Household Engin- 
eering course, with much of our Home Economics 
and Lessons in Cooking courses required. 
Usually the work can be completed and diploma 
awarded in six months, though three years is 
allowed. The lessons are wonderfully interesting 
and just what every housekeeper ought to have 
for her own home. 

To those who enroll this month, we are allow- 
ing a very low introductory tuition, and are 
giving, free, our Complete Domestic Science 
Library, beautifully bound in three-fourths 
leather style. This contains our full Home 
Economics, Lessons in Cooking and Household 
Engineering courses — 4,000 pages, 1,500 illus- 
trations, — a complete professional library. 

This is only one of several professional and 
homemaker's courses included in our special offer. 
Full details on request. 

COUPON 

American School of Home Economics 

503 W. 69th Street, Chicago 

Please give information about your Correspondence 
Course marked X 

Graduate Housekeepers' Course. 

Institution Management Course. 

....Lunch Room Management Course. 
....Teaching of Domestic Science Course. 
....Home Demonstrators' Course. 

Practical Nurse's Course. 

....Dietitian's Course. 
.—Homemaker's Courses. 






Name 

(Miss or Mrs.) 

Address 



Information _ 

(Age, schooling, experience, purpose, reference) 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

388 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




vseffeports 
for Thought 

Ask for Riteshape Service 

Riteshape wooden dishes are sanitary, economical 
and are useful in the home. 

Scientific investigation has proven it. We will send 
you this scientific data if you are interested. 

Ask your grocer and butcher to use Riteshape dishes 
for bulk foods. 

THE OVAL WOOD DISH COMPANY 



MANUFACTURERS 



EAS TERN SALES OFFICE 
110 W. 40th ST. 
NEW YORK CITY 



WESTERN SALES OFFICE 

37 S. WABASH AVE. 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

389 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



NESNAH DESSERTS 

(Made in a jiffy) 

Not the Christmas Dinner but the dessert is the thing that leaves 
a feeling that you have not dined wisely. Our Grandfathers could 
eat heavy plum pudding and hearty pies, but today a lighter des- 
sert finishes the more carefully prepared Christmas feast. 

Nesnah Sherbet, Nesnah Pudding, Nesnah Ice Cream are dainty 
desserts which give just the right balance to the Christmas Din- 
ner. The sugar and the flavor is already in this delicious dessert. 



Nesnah Ice Cream 

One gallon 

2 quarts milk 1 pint cream 

3 packages of Nesnah 

Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm 
(remove from stove), drop the 
NESNAH into it and dissolve by- 
stirring for one-half minute. Pour 
mixture into ice-cream can and let 
it stand undisturbed ten or fifteen 
minutes until set; pack with ice and 

Six pu 1 

Vanilla Chocolate Lemon 



salt; freeze to a thick mush before 
adding cream, then continue freez- 
ing. Crushed and sweetened fruit 
can be added with cream. 

Nesnah Pudding 

Dissolve one package of Raspberry 
Nesnah in one quart of warm milk. 
Pour immediately into small cups 
containing chopped fruit and nuts; 
when cool place in refrigerator to 
chill. Serve with whipped cream. 

Flavors 

Orange Raspberry Almond 



A post card will bring a free sample and a booklet of recipes. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

BOX 2507, LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 




The Nationa overages 



There's not a State in U.S. A.~Eut knows and uses White House Coffee aid! Teas. 
Carload shipments, once an event with us, are now common. Nothing short of 
exceptional quality could command such patronage. If you haven't tried White 
House Coffee and Teas, a new pleasure awaits you. Always in the air-tight package. 
DWINELL- WRIGHT COMPANY, Principal Coffee Roasters, BOSTON - CHICAGO 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

390 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






KRUMBLED 

BRAN 

Better 
Health 



JDoritltccrutLl^aad. 



TO KEEP REGULAR -EAT 

rcUMBLEI 

BRAH 

«EADY TO SEBVc 




2«*£S^ 



uwvrwnq a&a 

Uiid and aua^wrttii£d. 






Yovl never tasted bran so flood s-' 
You never saw bran so different ! 



liOok at the actual picture of Kellogg's 
Krumbled Bran. See what a real cereal 
food Kelloggs have made of bran. 

¥bu may have been disappointed in bran-y ou 
nay not have liked its looks or its lack of taste. 

Mow you have a real surprise and a real 
:reat, if you will buy a package of Kellogg's 
Krumbled Bran from your grocer and try it. 

[t doesn't look like bran — it is shredded and 
toasted, like Kellogg's Krumbles. 

[t doesn't taste like bran — it has an ap- 
petizing, tempting flavor, like Kellogg's 
roasted Corn Flakes. 

[t doesn't get stale and tasteless — it is pro- 
tected by Kellogg's "Waxtite" package — 
like all Kellogg products. 



Don't be constipated. Don't let constipation 
even begin. Constipation fills your system 
with poisons. It often causes sick headaches ; 
it slows you up mentally and physically. 

It is a pleasure to overcome and avoid con- 
stipation and its evils in this natural way — 
by eating Kellogg's Krumbled Bran. You 
don't have to wait till baking day to get 
its benefits. 

It is ready to eat with milk or cream at 

breakfast — just as you eat any cereal; for it 

is a cereal food. Children love it. 

Or you can add to it any cereal you eat. The im- 
portant thing is to eat some of it every day — and to 
be sure that you get Kellogg's Krumbled Bran. 

You will know it by the familiar red and green "Wax- 
tite" package, similar to that of Kellogg's Toasted 
Corn Flakes, bearing the signature of W. K. Kellogg. 



Try Kellogg's Krumbled Bran now. Buy a package from your grocer. 
Eat it at breakfast as a cereal. Make muffins, bread, pancakes, etc., with 
it. Recipes on each package. You will find them most delicious, too. 




Kello$£ Toasted Com Flake Co. 
Battle Creek Mich.. Tbronto.Can 



I 



— mt -—-»-— — e — 



n 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

391 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Double the 
Convenience 

cf your 
Electn'citip 



M* 



w^w^^. 



Make your single sockets double workers! Jo 
get two uses at once from an electric light socket 
is often a necessity— always a convenience. The 



B£N/A»L!N 



w o -^w yx>" 



F»L.4JC 



BENJAMIN 



fits any single socket. Turns it into two instantly. 

With it, you can use any appliance by day without 
the inconvenience of removing the light — and by 
night with the added advantage of light. Millions 
now in use. Descriptive folder free on request. 

Every Wired Home Needs Three or More 

At your dealer's 

[OR. «1.25 EACH 

Made only by 

BENJAMIN ELECTRIC MFG. CO. 

Chicago New York 

San Francisco 



NO. 92 



P£— I 



W*** 









Benjamin No. 2450 Shade Holder makes it easy to use any shade with your Benjamin Two-Way 
Plug. Price 15 cents. 

Benjamin No. 903 Swivel Attachment Plug screws into any electric socket without twisting the cord. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

392 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





>he ^ea^on of ©ood Cheer 
catlg for the choicest of 
5006 things to eat.TOtteoife 
Certified <Ham,3Bacon and other 
Certified product? measure up to 
the standard^ of excellence which 
the JHolidaUjjai bring to mmd.j#s% 



Eheij are ^elected, handled and 
prepared with the regpect ijour 
oum mother toould $how toward 
them, the ^il^on Certified 
$abel t# an expregpion of that 
(Bood Will and (Boob <Seroice 
u?hich add# to (Bood Cheer..B% 



"Jto&mafck. 



v\ m n 



WILSON & CO. 



X/ v/ 



yout gua/iaatee" 




\jj-difr&>^ -CaAeJL 4o*ot£cJ5d -tyuxisr -£a&€&~ 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

393 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




IKH0M ffBUE 



IN TINS 



VARIETIES 



8 Varieties 



Kraft 
Chile 
Swiss 
Pimento 



Rarebit 
Camembert 
Roquefort 
Limbur&er 




GOOD cheese is meat — the food prop- 
erties are almost identical — and is 
becoming in America, as it lon& has been 
in Europe, a staple of the meal, not merely 
a tidbit or dessert. Combined with many 
other foods, it helps add variety to your 
table and gjves the family more nourish- 
ment at less cost. 

Because of the exclusive Kraft process of 
sterilizing, Elkhorn Cheese in 
Tins is always uniform and al- 
ways &ood. Stock up now. 

J. L. KRAFT & BROS. CO. 

NEW YORK CHICAGO 

If your dealer does not have Elkhorn Cheese in 
Tins, send his name and 10c in stamps or coin for 
sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or 
20c for both. Illustrated hook of recipes free. 
Address 361-3 River St., Chicago, Illinois. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 

394 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




COCOANUT SNOWBALLS 



4 cups powdered sugar 
1 egg-white, beaten 
4 tablespoons water 



1 cup Dromedary Cocoanut 
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 
5 teaspoon lemon extract 



Mix sugar, white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, and water, 
then add Dromedary Cocoanut, vanilla and lemon ex- 
tracts. Beat until stiff, then mold into small balls. Lay 
on waxed paper and set in a cool place to harden. Serve, 
if desired, in bon-bon cases. Cocoanut fudge and penuche 
are also delicious. 



COCOANUT AND CHOCOLATE CREAM ROCKS 

1 pound sugar 1 cup Dromedary Cocoanut 

5 cupful water Few drops vanilla extract 

j teaspoon cream of tartar 2 squares unsweetened choc- 
olate melted 
Boil sugar, water, and cream of tartar three minutes after 
actual boiling commences; remove from fire and stir until 
the sirup becomes cloudy, then add Dromedary Cocoanut. 
Flavor one half of mixture with extract, and flavor second 
half with chocolate. Drop from