GIFT OF
A.V.Stubenrauch
TEE
AMERICAN
FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION
REVISED AND ENLARGED.
" Who lore* a garden, loves a green-house too,
Unconscious of a less propitious clime,
There blooms exotic beauty, warm and snug,
While the winds whistle, and the snows descend."
BY EDWARD SAVERS,
LANDSCAPE AND ORNAMENTAL GARDENER, AUTHOR OF THE
AMERICAN FRUIT GARDEN COMPANION, &C.
THIRD EDITION.
CINCINNATI:
J. A. JAMES, WALNUT, BETWEEN 4TH & STH STREETS;
PHILADELPHIA I J. W. MOORE J
NEW YORK: — j. s. REDFIELD.
1846.
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1846,
BY EDWARD SAYERS,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Ohio.
STEREOTYPED BY J. A. JAMES, CINCINNATI.
TO THE PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS
OF THE
CINCINNATI HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY,
THIS MANUAL
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,
BY THEIR VERY OBLIGED FRIEND,
THE AUTHOR.
466903
INTRODUCTION.
' THE first and second editions of the "Flower Garden Compa-
nion" having received a liberal patronage, will be a sufficient
apology for the appearance of the present edition, in an enlarged
form, although not materially different in its arrangement. The
present object, as heretofore, of the " Flower Garden Companion,"
is to aid those persons who are desirous of becoming acquainted
with the culture of flowers. In its compilation, the aim has been
to give, within the compass of a convenient manual for reference,
as much useful matter as possible relative to the subject. To
this end, each topic has been separately treated, and in as concise
a manner as could be done with propriety ; and, indeed, in some
cases, with a degree of brevity that on the first reading, to the
young practitioner may produce a feeling of disappointment, at
the apparent deficiency of information ; but on a careful reading
of the different articles, it will be found that everything useful
(in so small a treatise} has been spoken of, and that, in many
instances, one article acts as a key to another.
In the outset, directions are given for laying out flower gardens.
In treating on this subject, I have confined myself to the general
outline, without entering into minute details, which depend very
much upon location and circumstances, as well as upon the taste
and means of the proprietor.
To the culture of plants and shrubs, descriptive lists have been
appended, giving the color, height, and time of flowering, of such
varieties as have been found to be best adapted to the American
flower garden. It must be here recollected, that location and the
different treatment plants receive, will have great influence on the
color, height, and time of flowering, which I have set down on a
medium scale. In this place, it may be proper to remark, that the
design of the present manual is to assist the farmer, the mechanic,
and the amateur, in the general culture of flowers, and especially
in the culture of native American plants, which are not only the
V A2
Yl INTRODUCTION.
most beautiful, but also the most appropriate to this climate, and
are of easy cultivation; combining such methods of practice from
foreign horticulture as are adapted to this climate.
The management and culture of green-house plants, and plants
in rooms, being so intimately connected with the flower garden, I
have devoted a considerable space to that subject, Directions are
given for the treatment of the different families of green-house
plants, as the Camellia, Erica, Geranium, &c., with descriptive
lists of the most approved varieties subjoined.
The shrubbery, and the planting of ornamental plantations,
have also been treated on, although not so extensively as the
subject might demand in a more enlarged work on ornamental
plantations, which are now beginning to be properly appreciated
in most parts of the Union. To those who are improving estates
in the west, I recommend a work lately published by me, entitled
"A Manual on the Cultivation of Live Fences and Ornamental
Plantations," which will be found to be a good accompaniment
to the " Companion."
With these remarks, I must take leave of the subject, referring
the reader to the Table of Contents for the different matters treated
on, — at the same time tendering my sincere thanks to several
practical gardeners and amateurs for their kind assistance in
preparing the list of plants, and for several useful hints for this
treatise, hoping it may have a tendency to throw some light on
the culture of the flower garden; and if it have any influence on
the impulse already manifest in the culture of flowers, my earnest
desire will be fully answered.
E. S.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PART I.
AKHA2T6EMEXT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN AXD PROPAGATION OP PLANTS.
CHAPTER I.
On Laying out the Flower Garden. Page.
AST. 1. General Remarks . . . 13
2. Laying out the Flower Garden and Planting 14
3. Soil and Materials 16
4. General Planting of Shrubs and Flowers ........ 17
5. Location or Position of Plants 18
G. Plan and Management of Trellises and Arbors 18
7. Formation of and Planting the Rockery 19
8. Ornamental Waters and Bridges 20
9. On Making Flower Gardens 21
CHAPTER IL
On the Nutriment of Plants.
ABT. 1. Preliminary Remarks 22
2. Food of Plants 23
3. Light 25
4. Heat 26
5. Observations on the Roots of Plants 27
6. Observations on the Bud 28
7. Observations on the Leaf 29
CHAPTER IE.
On the Propagation of Plants.
ART. 1. General Observations 30
2. Propagation by Seed 31
3. Propagation by Roots 33
4. Propagation by Running Vines and Creepers 36
5. Propagation by Cuttings 36
6. Propagation by Layers 36
7. Increase by Inoculation 38
vii
Vi TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PART II.
MANAGEMENT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN CULTURE OF PLA
DESCRIPTIVE LIST.
CHAPTER I.
On the Culture of Annuals and Biennials. Page.
ART. 1. Annual Flowers 42
2. Growing Annuals in Hot-beds, for Planting out Early ... 43
3. Sowing the Seed in the Natural Ground 44
4. Descriptive List of Annual Flowers 45
5. Biennial Flowers 47
CHAPTER H.
On the Culture of Perennials.
ART. 1. Perennial Herbaceous Plants 50
2. Descriptive List of Herbaceous Perennial Flowering Plants . 51
3. On the Culture of the Phlox 55
4. Descriptive List of Phlox 57
5. On the Culture of the Pjeony 57
Descriptive List of Paeonias 60
CHAPTER HI.
On the Culture of Shrubs and Vines.
ART. 1. Shrubs 61
2. Descriptive List of Dwarf Hardy Shrubs 63
3. Descriptive List of Tall Shrubs and Dwarf Ornamental Trees 65
4. Hardy Running Vines, for covering Arbors, &c 66
5. Descriptive List of Hardy Vines . 66
6. On the Culture of Evergreen Shrubs 67
Descriptive List of Evergreen Shrubs 69
CHAPTER IV.
Culture of Florist Flowers.
ART. 1. On the Culture of the Dahlia 69
2. Descriptive List of Double Dahlias 74
3. Hardy Bulbous Rooted Plants 76
4. The Carnation and Picotee 79
5. The Pink 81
6. The Polyanthus and Auricula 83
7. On the Culture of the Pansy or Heartsease 86
8. The Chrysanthemum 87
TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX
CHAPTER V.
On the Monthly Calendar. page.
ART. 1. Object of the Monthly Calendar 89
2. January 90
3. February 90
4. March 91
5. April 92
6. May .92
7. June r 93
8. July 94
9. August 96
10. September 96
11. October 98
12. November 99
13. December 100
CHAPTER VL
On the Variations and Motions of Plants.
ART. 1. Variations of Plants 100
2. Color of Plants and Flowers ; 101
3. Double Flowers 102
4. Motion of Plants 104
CHAPTER VII.
Spring and Fall Management.
ART. 1. Spring Management, Pruning, &c 106
2. Fall Management, and Covering Plants 108
CHAPTER Vm.
On the Summer Management of Pot Plants and Garden Frames.
ART. 1. Of Pot Plants 110
2. Management of Garden Frames 112
CHAPTER IX.
The Shrubbery 113
CHAPTER X.
City and Native American Flower Garden.
ART. 1. The City Flower Garden 116
2. The Native American Flower Garden 119
X TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XL Page.
On Plunging Green-house Plants in Flower Borders . . . 122
CHAPTER XII.
Insects . • 124
<*2
CHAPTER XIII.
The Rose.
ART. 1. General Remarks 128
2. Propagation 129
3. Roses that Bloom in June — Various Roses 132
4. Descriptive List of Roses that Bloom in June 135
5. Roses that Bloom the whole Season .137
6. Descriptive List of Roses that Bloom the whole Season . . 140
PART III.
CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEK-HOUSE.
CHAPTER L
On the Construction of the Green-house.
ART. 1. Location and Plan 143
2. Mode of Heating 144
3. Walks and Stages 145
4. Repairing and Cleansing 146
CHAPTER H.
On the Management of Green-house Plants.
ART. 1. Taking the Plants into Winter Quarters and Potting ... 148
2. Arranging the Plants in the House 148
3. Watering the Plants 149
4. Temperature of the House 150
5. Descriptive List of Green-house Plants 151
6. Tender Bulbous Rooted Plants 155
CHAPTER HI.
On the Culture of the Camellia Japonica.
ART. 1. Remarks 158
Propagation of the Camellia 159
Management in the Green-house 159
Repotting the Plants ICO
Descriptive List of Camellias 161
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER IV. Page.
On the Culture of the Geranium, China Rose, and Verbena.
AHT. 1. The Geranium, or Pelargonium 163
2. The China Rose 166
3. On the Culture of the Verbena 167
CHAPTER V,
On the Culture of the Erica, Azalea, and Rhododendron.
ART. 1. The Erica 170
2. Culture and Propagation 171
3. Descriptive List of Ericas 172
4. On the Culture of the Azalea 173
5. On the Culture of the Rhododendron 175
CHAPTER VI.
On the Culture of the Cactus and Succulent Plants.
AKT. 1. The Cactus . s ... 176
Grafting the Cactus 17&
Descriptive List of the Cactus 181
2. Culture of the Aloe, and various Succulents 182
CHAPTER VII.
On Potting and Repotting Plants.
ART. 1. Potting Green-house Plants k . . 183
2. Potting of Plants taken from the Ground 184
3. Potting young Plants from Cuttings 184
CHAPTER VIE.
On the Management of Cut Flowers, Plants in Rooms, and Bulbs in
Pots and Water Glasses.
ART. 1. Cut Flowers 185
2. Plants in Rooms 187
3. Growing Bulbous Rooted Plants for Rooms 189
d. Growing Bulbs in Glasses 189
CHAPTER IX.
Miscellaneous Tender Plants.
ART. 1. Tender Green-house Plants for Winter Flowering, and
Planting in the Flower Garden 190
2. Annuals and Biennials 193
XU TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page.
ART. 3. Descriptive List of Annual Flowers . . 193
4. Descriptive List of Biennials 191
CHAPTER X.
On the Propagation of Green-house Plants.
ABT. 1. On Grafting 195
Whip Grafting 195
Cleft Grafting 196
Grafting Tuberous Roots 197
Grafting by the Single Eye 198
Grafting by Approach , 198
2. Propagating Green-house Plants by Cuttings 199
Striking Cuttings in water 201
Glossary 202
PART I.
ARRANGEMErrr OF THE FLOWER GARDEN, AND PRO-
PAGATION OF PLANTS.
CHAPTER I.
On Laying out the Flower Garden.
ART. 1. — General Remarks.
THE principal object of the "Flower garden" being to
please the eye, it should in every department have a clean
and healthy appearance, which greatly facilitates the health
and growth of the plants and flowers that it contains.
The situation should be so selected, that all the kinds of
plants are, as near as possible, accommodated to their natural
location, which, by general observation, will be found to be of
a more varied nature than can in any given spot be combined
to suit the health and growth of such plants as are placed in
the flower garden : hence the propriety of selecting a soil,
that will suit most kinds ; and in some cases, a proper soil,
to suit those plants that will not thrive without their peculiar
earth to support them.
A knowledge of these requisites, is, in a great measure, the
leading principle of what is called flower-gardening ; although
in many cases, the mere act of culture is the only object in
view, which has but little weight on the subject ; for we can
observe wild flowers growing luxuriantly in their natural state,
without any other assistance than the hand of nature.
For a definition of the different modes and management of
flowers, I refer the reader to their respective heads.
13 B
"*5*/>»iJ*»*«» • > - • '
14 ! ; %y& FLOWER WRDEN* COMPANION.
ART. 2. — Laying out the Flower Garden and Planting.
It is difficult to give a correct method, for laying out flower
gardens, owing to the diversified opinions of different persons,
which are much at variance with each other. Some say that
nature should be copied, as much as possible ; others contend
that formal lines and geometrical figures, such as circles, ovals,
&c., are best.
The extent and location of the ground, and the varieties
of plants which are to be cultivated, are the principal points
to be considered in the laying out of flower gardens ; these,
with a few general rules, may guide almost any intelligent
person to perform the work with good taste and propriety.
In small pieces of flat ground, intended for fancy flowers
of low growth and habit, the geometrical order may be very
consistently followed, as, the space of ground being small, a
regular varied order is the most pleasing. In laying out
such parterres, the ground should not be too much cut up
into small walks and beds ; but they should be in number and
size in proportion to the size of the plat of ground to be
planted. Regard should be always had to have a well pro-
portioned central bed, either of an oval, circular, or other ap-
propriate figure ; from this other uniform beds may emanate,
in proportion, in a geometrical order. The walks of such
beds should be from two to three feet wide, and the beds may
be double the width across, in the centre, as that of the walks.
A good criterion is, that in a small flower garden the beds
should be no wider than a person can reach into the centre,
from the walk, to cut the flowers, without treading upon the
beds.
Where the ground is intended to be planted with annual
flowers only, or especially for the culture of bulbous rooted
plants, as hyacinths, tulips, and hardy bulbs, it may be laid
out into four feet beds, with two feet alleys or walks.
At country residences, where a large extent is appropriated
to this department, many convenient and pleasing appendages
can be judiciously introduced; as rustic arbors, rustic seats,
ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 15
and rockery ; and if water can be connected, it always gives
a good effect. All such appendages, I recommend to be con-
structed in as natural a manner as possible.
The arbors should be covered with vines and creepers, and
their form not be discovered until the person who is desirous
to rest, after viewing the flowers in the other departments,
happens to stroll into them by an easy walk: all such places
should be constructed in the shade, for retirement, and not on
a rocky eminence, under the influence of the burning sun,
unless a fine landscape is to be seen from them, and then an
observatory is more proper.
In many cases, the flower garden will have a pleasing ap-
pearance, when various figures are cut in a well kept grass
plat, where ease should invariably be attended to.
Many improvements of this kind may be made with a
trifling expense, on large grass plats, especially in front of
country residences, by the road side, by making a few judi-
cious figures, and planting them with separate families of
plants. A dozen varieties of any of the pretty kinds of
monthly roses, are fine specimens for this mode of ornament-
ing, which will continue in flower during the season ; several
families of perennial herbaceous plants, as the beautiful genus
of Phlox, Penstemons, and the like, are also desirable plants for
this purpose ; and to these may be added, the hardy bulbous
rooted plants, as the tulip, the hyacinth, and lilies, which are
too much neglected in the flower garden, for early flowering
plants. When the bulbs have done flowering, these beds
may be judiciously planted with annual flowers, to flower in
the fall, as the pretty kinds of balsam, Petunia Phlox Drum-
mondii, dwarf larkspur, or any pretty kinds. For a selection
of the best adapted plants for this purpose, I refer the reader
to the Descriptive List of the different varieties of plants
which will be found under their different heads.
In laying out flower gardens, great care should always be
taken, that there is a regular proportion of the beds and walks
in the different departments ; for it will have a bad effect if
16 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
any thing is cramped. The walks should, if possible, be
wide enough for two persons to walk abreast, in order to give
a social effect, which should always be the first consideration
in the flower garden. The beds should also be well propor-
tioned, and not too much cut up into small figures, which,
when bordered with box edging, have the appearance of so
many figures formed for the amusement of children, more
than for the purpose of growing flowers. There is also an-
other great error sustained in this method, namely, the edging
will retard the growth of the flowers by being close to them ;
for, indeed, there is nothing that so much exhausts the soil
of nutriment, as box edging.
Every department should have an open, easy appearance,
and regular proportion.
I must also beg leave to caution my readers against the
very improper method often practised of planting fruit trees
in the flower borders and among shrubs : — the impropriety is
very evident, if we take into consideration that many of the
flowers must eventually be spoiled in gathering the fruit ; be-
sides the inducements presented for children to injure the
flowers, when in the act of robbing the trees of their fruit.
If fruit is to be planted, a proper place should be selected;
it should never be mingled among shrubs and flowers ;
unless the ornamental kinds, as the Siberian crab, Weeping
cherry, and the like ; and those have a better effect as a
single ornamental object.
ART. 3. — Soil and Materials.
The soil best adapted for the flower garden is a mellow
loam incorporated with some rotten manure, and a portion of
dry sand, with a dry, mellow subsoil.
A part of the ground should also be of a boggy nature,
composed of black earth and decayed leaves, in a low situa-
tion, for the accommodation of such plants as grow in a boggy
soil ; which are, Lobelias, Iris, and the like.
The other materials are, gravel for walks, which should be
ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 17
coarse for the bottoms, to drain off the water from the surface,
and fine gravel for the top, in order that the walk may bind
hard. Stones for the rockery should be of the roughest kind,
that nature may be as much as possible imitated ; and the
arbors and trellises, and the like, should be of the most simple
construction.
AST. 4. — General Planting of Shrubs and Flowers.
The best time for planting shrubs and flowers is in the
spring, when the sap is beginning to rise. This generally
happens in the month of April, and is, perhaps, the best time
for performing such business.
In many cases, planting may be very judiciously and eco-
nomically done in the fall, especially on dry ground, and
where hasty improvements are to be made: much work will
thus be forwarded before the coming spring.
The manner of planting may be simply stated in a few
words, combining trees, shrubs and flowers. As almost
every species of plants have a conjunction of their roots, a
few inches under the earth's surface, which, if I may be al-
lowed the term, I will consider as the crown of the roots ;
let this be the criterion of planting, that the above mentioned
part be placed a few inches below the surface, and not too
deep, which, in many cases, destroys the plants, particularly
those that do not freely root from the foot, or the base of the
stem, when their natural roots are destroyed by being placed
in a situation injurious to them.
The proper manner of planting, or act of inserting the
roots, so as to insure the growth of the plants, is simply to
observe the nature of the fibrous roots and place them in their
natural position in the soil.
Those plants that extend their roots far around the crown
or centre, require a hole made to accommodate them, without
cramping their roots ; others, that roct downward in a perpen-
dicular manner, as the Pa3ony, and tuberous roots, and most
2 B2
18 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
kinds of bulbs, should be planted so that the roots find their
way into deep, rich soil.
In the act of planting, place the crown of the roots an inch
or two deep, and close the fine earth well about the fibres,
with either the hand or foot, observing well the nature of the
roots : and if the ground is very dry in the spring, give a
quantity of water to settle the earth about them.
ART. 5. — Location or Position of Plants.
Plants in their natural state have their peculiar location : it
is also requisite to see them in perfection, to place them in
similar locations, under the hand of the cultivator : hence,
running vines, such as Honeysuckles, Clematis, Bignonias,
and so on, are most proper for covering arbors and trellises ;
Ivy and Virginian creepers for walls ; tall shrubs for conceal-
ing old boarded fences, and unsightly objects; and the pretty
dwarf flowering shrubs, as the Double Almond, Mezereon,
and Roses, should be brought nearer the eye of the observer.
Their position should also be such, as to give the effect of
variety of color, and so arranged that a variety is always in
blossom, which can be effected, by referring to the Descriptive
List, of the several varieties enumerated therein.
ART. 6. — Plan and Management of Trellises and Arbors.
In many flower gardens, trellises, arbors, and summer
houses, may be introduced to a very good purpose for con-
cealing offices and unseemly appendages.
The form and disposal of these must greatly depend on the
size and situation of the garden.
In city gardens, trellises are mostly introduced on entrances
to the back offices, in which cases, they are generally covered
with the Native grape, or other running vines, as the Honey-
suckle and Clematis. Such vines should always be pruned
in the spring, and trained with the greatest care, to guide the
summer shoots, which is often too much neglected, to the in-
jury of the plants.
ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 19
The summer dressing of vines, is simply to thin them out
where too much wood is growing, and .which would cause a
general weakness in the vine; the next object is to train the
young shoots, so that all vacant places are regularly covered.
These remarks will be found applicable to all kinds of vines.
In flower gardens attached to country residences, the trellis
is mostly applied to arbors, which ought to be of a rustic
nature, and any form most convenient; formality in their
structure, spoils the good effect they would otherwise produce.
I think that most of my readers will agree, that they should
be of an easy and rural character.
ART. 7. — Forming and Planting the Rockery.
The Rockery, is perhaps one of the best features of the
flower garden, and is particularly adapted to this climate : its
location depends on taste and circumstances. In most cases,
it is placed in a very conspicuous situation, as the front of the
Green-house, principal entrances, and such like. By general
observation, I have found that a plant thrives best on the
rockery, when placed in a situation where the principal part
of it is partially shaded by shrubbery or trees.
In extensive pleasure grounds, the rockery has a good effect
when placed distinct from the flower garden, and near a rustic
arbor, or ornamental bridge, or seat; and if placed by the
side of a retired walk, near the lawn or grass plot, it has an
easy effect The form and dimensions, may be so as to ac-
commodate the location it is placed in : a long oval line, or
almost any form, pleases.
The materials should be rough stones, and good rich earth ;
the base to be laid with stones, and then a quantity of soil :
this method may be pursued until the whole is completed.
When finished, it should have as much as possible a natural
appearance, and ridge-like shape.
The plants best adapted for the rockery, are of the herba-
ceous kinds, as the Phlox, Penstemons, and so on : all kinds
of pretty native plants may also be pressed into the service of
20 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
the rockery, as the Jlsters, Wood Anemones, Violets, and, in
fact, all kinds of plants that will thrive on a rock should be
planted indiscriminately, without order, so as to form a variety
of flowering plants in every month of the season. Plants
growing in this manner, always assume their natural habits,
and are fine specimens, for young beginners in botany, and
the junior members of families that are studying that delight-
ful science: perhaps there is no greater inducement to its
researches, than a fine collection of hardy native plants on
the rockery; especially if the beautiful tribe of ferns is to be
studied, which will thrive well on rocks.
Planting the rockery, is merely attended with inserting the
plants between the stones, in the soil, in their natural situa-
tions; either on the sunny or shady side: if the rockery is
covered with leaves and pine or hemlock brush in the winter,
the plants will flower much better in the spring. Let it be
remembered, that most native plants in woods, are indulged
by nature with a covering of leaves in the winter, and there-
fore the utility requires no further comment.
AHT. 8. — Ornamental Waters and Bridges.
There is nothing that I am acquainted with, that gives more
ease, and has so fine an effect in the ornamental and flower
garden department, as ornamental waters, in any form they
can be introduced ; it gives a relief to the eye, from too much
sameness of the living part of the created world ; and calls to
mind, the utility that is derived from its presence as a me-
dium conductor of food, to an organized kingdom. Indepen-
dent of this, the cooling aspect it assumes, forms a fine feature
in rural scenery.
No correct definition, that I am acquainted with, can be
given on the formation of ornamental water; therefore it
must, like many other things, depend entirely on the taste of
those who wish to introduce it, but in all cases, the margin or
boundary should have a natural appearance, and seem to be
a necessary appendage.
ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 21
Rustic bridges, also, are interesting objects, where they
appear to be useful appendages to the flower garden, or orna-
mental grounds, in crossing streams, or even in crossing any
part of the ground where their presence seems needful.
They should be constructed in a rustic manner, of the limbs
of trees in their natural state, to give a good effect; formality
should as much as possible, in this case, be avoided.
Rustic seats, rustic chairs, tables, and the like, may also be
introduced into the flower garden; and when placed in a
shady retreat, or by the side of water, they are not only
pleasing, but useful acquisitions to the ornamental department.
ART. 9. — On Making Flower Gardens.
In treating on " the Laying out of Flower Gardens," I shall
confine the subject, in this place, to the Parterre, or small
garden. The laying out of shrubberies, and ornamental gar-
dens, with the city flower gardens, <fcc., will be treated on
under their separate heads.
The plan, as has been before stated, is merely a matter of
fancy, although it may be laid down as a general rule, that
the geometrical manner is the best adapted to a small garden.
Nicol, one of the best writers on the practice of laying
out flower gardens says : " The laying out of flower gardens
is a matter of very much fancy. Too many gravelled walks
offend the eye, especially if they be much twisted or run
across, as it comprehends the whole at once. Their breadth
should be proportioned to that of the beds ; nor should they
be sunk, seldom more than an inch, otherwise they have a
bad effect, and look rather like furrows than walks. They
may be edged with box, thrift, or gentiannella, according to
fancy. But the edging, whatever it may be, should be kept
low, thin, and neat. It should seldom be allowed to rise above
two inches high, or spread above two inches wide. A linear
box edging always pleases* if kept quite close and connected."
The ground being chosen, prepare for laying it out by dig-
ging and well pulverizing it one foot deep, taking out any
22 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
stones, or other rubbish, that may be either troublesome or
detrimental to the well-being of the plants ; it should then be
made level on the surface, and the walks marked out to their
proper width. This done, take out the earth from the walks,
six inches deep, and spread on the flower beds, which should
be so managed as to leave them rather highest in the middle.
If box edging is to be planted, it should now be done, when
the walks are to be gravelled, taking care to keep the coarse
at the bottom, and the fine on the top. This done, rake the
walks, and flower beds neatly, leaving each highest in the
middle, and the work is done. When the work is com-
pleted, the beds and walks should have a gradual rise from
the outside to the centre, in order that water drains gradually
from them. Care should also be taken, in laying out of gar-
dens, that they are laid a little on a descent to one corner, or
any given point, so as to let off the superfluous water ; it
should also be a given rule, that the flower garden attached to
dwelling-houses should have a gradual descent from the house.
If the earth where the garden is to be made, is of a poor,
sandy, meagre nature, the soil should be taken out where the
flower beds are to be made, and a mixture of good, mellow
loam, with a portion of well rotted manure added to it, should
be put into those places intended for the beds, or borders.
CHAPTER II.
On the Nutriment of Plants.
ART. 1. — Preliminary Remarks.
BEFORE I proceed to the culture of plants and flowers, it
will be proper to point out their different nutriments and
stimulants, and how they act on the vegetable system, either
in a congenial or injurious manner, which, by a little obser-
vation, will be found to be of great importance in the culture
ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 23
of all kinds of plants and flowers : — to this, I have also added
some remarks on the development of the different parts of
plants, as the seed, the bud, the root, the leaf, and the like ;
•which I consider essential to be known to the cultivator, and I
hope the subject will therefore be of some utility in this place.
These plants, like all the other bodies which are organized,
require an appropriate nutriment, for the germination of seeds,
and the further development of the vegetable economy. The
most superficial observer is aware, that plants derive their
principal food from the soil and atmosphere, although not in
equal proportions. They also require different compounds,
according to the nature of the soil in which they naturally
grow ; thus, the Cherry, Peach, and Nectarine, are found to
grow on a light, dry soil, while the Pear and Plum require a
deep loamy soil; and aquatics grow altogether in water,
as the Vallisnera Spiralis, Water Lily, &c ; others, as the
Ferns, live and flourish on the hardest rocks.
ABT. 2.— Food of Plants.
The principal food of plants is found to be either vegetable
or animal substances in a decomposed state, which enter into
vegetables by aqueous solution, and as it were compose a new
vegetable in an organized state. This food is principally ab-
sorbed by the roots of plants ; it is also inhaled by the leaves,
its particles being often raised to a considerable height by the
winds.
EARTHS, as Clay, Lime, Flint, and Magnesia, are also
absorbed by plants, in solution. Each particular variety will
be found to contain these earths in different proportions, ac-
cording to the preponderance of the soil in which they grow :
hence, by calcination of corn-stalks, flint is found in the ashes,
and is perhaps one of the finest finishers for steel.
Plants inhaling chalky soils possess portions of lime, and,
by analysis, each variety will be found to contain a portion of
solid substance, which they most readily imbibe by aqueous
solution.
24 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Water. — Some persons are of opinion, that water is the
sole food of plants, who found their authority on the fact, that
many kinds, and particularly bulbs, vegetate and produce
their blossoms in that fluid; the reverse of this is, however,
the case, as, on calcination, those plants are found to contain
component parts ; but the quantity of water necessary for dif-
ferent species is also very apparent ; as some plants are found
to thrive on the hardest rocks, and must obtain their moisture
principally from their leaves, to which it is first imparted
from the atmosphere, whilst others are known to live wholly
in water, and consequently must be of a different nature in
their solids.
Atmospheric Air. — "The atmosphere," says Stroud, "is
composed of oxygen, carbonic acid, hydrogen and nitrogen
gases, in different proportions ; all these are to be found in
vegetables, but they do not all seem to be vegetable food.
"That oxygen is necessary to vegetation, numerous exper-
iments have proved, and few have been found to subsist long
without it, when in a growing state ; it is therefore plain, that
plants inhale a considerable quantity of the gas.
" Carbonic Acid. — This is also beneficial to plants, partic-
ularly to the root ; but if too large a quantity be applied, it
proves injurious or fatal. Hydrogen and nitrogen are sup-
posed to enter vegetables in combination with other sub-
stances, as when they are applied separately to growing
plants, they refuse to inhale either of them, and death is the
consequence.
" From these facts, it appears that vegetables have a power
of extracting from the atmosphere, those parts which contrib-
ute to their growth and health, as well as from the soil, and
of refusing to admit the constituents of either."
The above facts plainly show the utility and necessity of
obtaining a proper air, requisite to the growth and health of
the plant ; whether in a frame room or green-house, the ne-
cessity is the same. When unwholesome air is present, the
plant suffers in proportion to the portion of improper gas :
OX THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. t5
the most delicate parts, as the flower, or young fruit, being
first affected, generally perishes : the next is the tender leaves
and branches, and so in succession ; but in some cases, as
tender annuals, foul internal air destroys the plant in its infant
state.
To all plants in a growing state, a small quantity of exter-
nal air should always be admitted, in order to rectify the in-
ternal air. This plan should be observed in the green-house
rooms and other confined places.
ABT. 3. — Light
u Fairest of beings ! first created, Light !
Prime cause of beauty ! for, from thee alone,
The sparkling gem, — the vegetable race, —
The nobler worlds that live and breathe, their charms,
The lovely hues peculiar to each tribe, —
From thy unfading source of splendor, draw !
In thy pure rays, with transport, I survey
This firmament, and those her rolling worlds ;
Their magnitudes and motions.'*
Light is one of the most requisite agents to the vegetable
kingdom, as few vegetables (the Fungious excepted) are
known to thrive and have their proper qualities without this
stimulant.
The most common observer may have ocular demonstra-
tion of this fact, by plants generally growing towards the
light, in windows of houses and confined situations ; and as
soon as the plant is reversed, the position is reversed also.
Leaves, flowers and fruits, are always more replete with their
proper qualities, when in an exposed situation. This is ob-
servable in the tops of trees. It is generally understood by
horticulturalists, that no light as yet known artificially, will
compensate for the absence of the sun.
That vegetables lose their proper qualities, when deprived
of the presence of light, is exemplified in the Celery and En-
dive when blanched ; which is effected by excluding them
from the light, in which case the vegetable loses its natural
3 C
26 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION,
qualities in a certain degree. So tenacious of light, are most
kinds of plants, that, when deprived of this stimulant, they
begin to assume a yellow appearance, and in time, when
fully excluded, they turn to a clear white : it is also obvious,
that when they again receive a full share of stimulating influ-
ence, they resume their wonted appearance.
I shall conclude this subject by impressing on the mind of
my readers, the utility of light to plants generally, and es-
pecially in frames and green-houses, in the early part of the
season, when every opportunity should be taken to admit it.
Let them also remember that in winter, owing to the short
days, the due quantity of light cannot be given ; this should
always be taken into consideration by the cultivator.
ART. 4.— Heat.
It is very evident to the most common observer, that a cer-
tain degree of heat is required by all plants to cause them to
grow, in a healthy, vigorous state. As we find that plants
similarly situated, though natives, do not all vegetate at the
same time : so also seeds require a different temperature of
heat, to cause them to vegetate freely ; hence it will be seen
that all kinds of native seeds vegetate early in the spring, and
many exotics, as the Stock-gilliflower, Candy-tuft, and the
like hardy kinds : while the more tender varieties, as the
Balsam, Globe Amaranth, Cypress vine, and the like, must
be deferred until a warmer season. The same affinity is
also observable in the circulation of sap in trees, as they are
seen to put out their foliage and to commence in growth at
different times in the same location.
Heat may be considered under two heads, namely, sun
heat, or natural; and artificial, as that applied by fire, fermen-
tation and the like. Sun heat may be in all cases considered
as natural to plants, although in many cases where plants are
placed in very moist situations they are drawn weak when it
acts too powerfully on them after much wet, and in such
cases the leaves are seen to flag and shrivel up. Fire heat
ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 27
also when applied in too high a degree to plants, injures their
constitution in a manner that they lose in a certain degree
their natural strength or habit. Heat and moisture, in all ca-
ses, should be regulated as much as possible to correspond to
the natural habit of the plants that are to be cultivated.
ART. 5. — Observations on the Roots of Plants.
The roots of plants being intended by nature as channels
by which the principal food is absorbed and conveyed to the
different parts, and finally forms a part of the plant, should
be very familiar to the cultivator.
By due observation it will be seen that the adaptation of
plants to their proper soil is of the greatest importance, as
plants placed in a soil uncongenial to them, seldom thrive
well, owing to improper food being absorbed by their roots :
and, in many cases, roots have been known to travel out of
their proper position in quest of a more proper nutriment.
The time of circulation of the sap in roots is different in dif-
ferent kinds, as may be exemplified by plants and shrubs be-
ginning to put forth their leaves at various periods, in the
same location. This fact may be proved by any intelligent
observer who will notice the commencement of vegetation in
native plants and shrubs, in any given part of the country,
under the same circumstances and in the same location.
" Roots being furnished with the power of perpetually ad-
ding new living matter to their points," says Lindley, «« are
thus enabled to pierce the solid earth in which they grow ; to
insinuate themselves between the most minute crevices, and
to pass on from place to place as fast as the food in contact
with them is consumed. So that plants, although not loco-
motive like animals, do perpetually shift their mouths in
search of fresh pasturage, although their bodies remain sta-
tionary."
He further continues, " There is no period of the year
when roots become altogether inactive, except when they
are actually frozen. At all other times during the winter
28 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
they are perpetually attracting food from the earth, and con-
veying it into the interior of the plant, where it, at that sea-
son, is stored up till it is required by the young shoot of the
succeeding year. The whole tissue of a plant will, therefore,
become distended with fluid by the return of spring, and the
degree of distention will be in proportion to the mildness and
length of the previous winter. As the new shoots of spring
are vigorous or feeble in proportion to the quantity of food
that may be prepared for them, it follows, that the longer the
period of rest from growth, the more vigorous the vegetation
of the plant will become when once renewed, if that period
is not excessively protracted. "
Anx. 6. — Observations on the Bud.
The bud of plants is very aptly termed by the botanist, the
hybernacula or winter quarters. It is formed in the sum-
mer, and properly fed and nourished by the descending sap.
Buds may be considered under three definitions : first, buds
which contain the rudiments and organization of fruits only,
as the Cherry, Plum, and Pear; second, buds which con-
tain the blossom and wood-buds under the same covering, as
the Grape, and most other trailing vines ; and thirdly, those
which contain all the rudiments of a young plant in embryo,
as the Cherry, Plum, and Pear, which are called wood-buds.
Nature has carefully protected "those precious appendages
of plants, by covering them with a hard, scaly substance out-
wardly, and a woolly substance inwardly, to protect the more
tender parts.
It will be found by a due observance of buds, that those
which produce the fruit are the most delicate, and of course
the most liable to injury by drought, cold, and the many
causes inimical to them; hence the Peach, and many other
fruit trees require protection during the winter in the North-
ern states, particularly those that have been grown under
glass, the buds of which are always more delicate than when
the tree is wholly exposed.
ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 29
The blossom-bud being injured in any way, either by cold
or other casualty detrimental to it, is generally destroyed ; but
the wood-bud on the same tree or shrub, is not, although ex-
posed to the same injuries ; and in many cases, as the Grape
Vine, the blossom-bud is blinded or destroyed by many
causes detrimental to it, although the vine will perhaps break
and grow in a very healthy manner.
AnT. 7. — Observations on the Leaf.
The leaves of plants being the principal organs of respira-
tion, also contribute to their growth by their power of absorp-
tion ; they are of the greatest importance in this operation.
The surrounding air, whether internal or external, being ab-
sorbed by their agency, requires to be of a pure and whole-
some nature, in order to keep them in a healthy, vigorous
state. We are informed by botanists that the leaves of
plants are synonymous with the lungs of animals, therefore,
whatever disease is imbibed by them, enters into their system.
When too much heat and moisture are applied in green-
houses, or frames, where plants are growing, it is imbibed by
the leaf, and the consequence is, that the plant is elongated
without its proper qualities, the leaves assume a feeble ap-
pearance, and are often totally destroyed, when the sun and
air act on them sufficiently to nourish their more healthy
parts. Leaves, when decaying, are most liable to breed
many insects, as, the Red Spider, Trip, and all other insects
which are increased by decomposition ; therefore, decaying
and dead leaves should, in all cases, be taken from plants in
a state of vegetation.
In conclusion to what has been said on trees and plants, it
appears evident that the native of all kinds of plants in the
common idea, is the primitive, and is perpetual, and that every
variety, of improved quality, must originate from it, either by
chance or luxuriant culture ; and it is at the same time clear,
that by crossing the primitive or native plants of any country,
of the same natural order, new varieties, of improved quali-
c 2
30 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ties, are produced, congenial to the country which has given
birth to such varieties. From the very best of experiments
and authority, it has been proved, that in raising plants, either
from seed, cuttings, grafting, or any other mode of propaga-
tion, those kinds that have been propagated in a hardy and
natural manner are the best qualified to withstand the natural
changes of the climate ; and that, although, by nursing many
tender plants, they are brought to great perfection with atten-
tive culture, it cannot be recommended to answer in a general
way.
Any intelligent observer will discover, that plants of all
kinds require to be so situated that the sun and air have, as
much as possible, free access to every part of their leaves,
fruit, and, indeed, all parts of the plants ; and that any vio-
lence, either by severe pruning, disease, blights, unwholesome
food or air that is present, acts on their system materially,
either directly or indirectly.
CHAPTER III.
On Hie Propagation of Plants.
ART. 1. — General Observations.
To describe the many methods practised in propagating
plants, would far exceed my prescribed limits, and be alto-
gether foreign to this treatise, which is intended to condense,
as much as possible, the most requisite subjects to be known
by those who are desirous to become acquainted with the cul-
ture of the flower garden. The propagation of plants, may
be considered strictly belonging to the nursery department,
and would require more space than the contents of this book
to fully describe; therefore, the subject has been confined to
such methods as could be done with perfect ease by any per-
son interested in the subject.
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 31
The plan, it will be perceived, is as much as possible con-
densed into regular methods — and those plants to be operated
upon are designated by their proper character, in the Descrip-
tive List of their respective departments, by which much
space and repetition is in this place obviated. . _ ,.-,
Of all the different processes in Horticulture, propagation,
or increase, is the most difficult, and, consequently, requires
every attention of the operator. Correctness must be, in all
cases, attended to, and a neat and active performance of the
subject acted upon must be duly regarded, as in amputation,
insertion, and the like principles, that will be requisite in the
different operations.
ART. 2. — Propagation by Seed.
The seed contains all the rudiments of the parent plant in
emhryo ; and expands its functionary qualities, and is de-
veloped into a new plant when the necessary stimulants and
nutriments are present, either in a natural or artificial form.
The propagation of any plant or seed, out of its natural cli-
mate, is attended, in all cases, by artificial means, and is,
therefore, under the laws of culture.
Proper location for Seed. — That most plants require a
proper location, is very apparent to the inquiring observer ;
some are found to grow naturally, and thrive, in water, as the
Water Lily ; others may be considered as amphibious, grow-
ing sometimes in, and at others out of water, as the Water
Plantain, Arrowhead, and the like ; to the reverse of this,
we find some plants living and thriving on rocks, and such
locations, where it is very difficult to receive water or food
from any other source than atmospheric air. Other plants,
we find, are natives of rich and fertile valleys ; and some are
ornamentally intended, by nature, as a fringe to the woods,
by way sides, and the like ; hence, a corresponding climate,
soil, and situation, are always the best adapted, and should be
as near as possible obtained, to grow seeds and to propagate
young plants to perfection.
32 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
By a little observation, it will be seen that many seeds
perish in their natural soil and climate, by accidental causes,
when they are not imbedded in the ground ; and, in some
cases, not one of a thousand vegetates, while, if assisted, by
being placed in a proper situation, two out of three would
grow ; other seeds almost universally grow when they leave
the plants in an accidental manner. This fact is, in the first
case, exemplified in large seeds, as nuts, and the like. The
Hickory and Chesnut are seen to bear bushels of nuts, or
seed, which fall from the tree and are dispersed on their
natural soil, but rarely vegetate, owing to their not being im-
bedded in'the earth deep enough to receive a regular and pro-
per nutriment to cause them to grow. Most native annual
seeds vegetate freely, their covers being thin and of a small
size, by which they are easily imbedded in the earth to a
proper depth to cause vegetation to proceed at the proper
season. The principal point to be attended to, in making
seeds vegetate, is, that they are sown in a soil where they can
easily take root, and in a depth corresponding to their size.
Small seeds, as the Poppy, and Mignonette, should scarcely
be covered ; and larger, as the Balsam, and &ster, may be
covered deeper, and so in proportion to their different sizes.
In some cases, frost destroys the vegetative principle of seed
when it is not well ripened; or placed in a warm, moist situ-
ation, where it begins to grow at an unnatural season. But I
have never known seed of any kind destroyed by cold when
perfectly dry and well ripened.
The necessary food and stimulants to cause seed to vege-
tate are, heat, air, and water. When a proper quantity of
these are applied to seed, it will germinate, unless it has lost
its proper qualities of germination, by age or other causes de-
trimental to it, but so soon as germination takes place, the
necessary food and soil must also be present, or it soon per-
ishes; many seeds, as Cress, Mustard, and Radish, are grown
in flannel, kept continually moist, for the purpose of small salads
in the winter ; but although they are so grown, they do not
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 33
possess their proper qualities, as they would not in that state
grow to their natural size and substance, or produce seed,
which is the essence of life. Seed cannot possibly vegetate
when perfectly dry, although the quantity of moisture requi-
site to its germination is different in different seeds ; for the
want of moisture, many seeds perish in the ground, in the
spring, when badly sown, particularly small, minute kinds,
which are often exposed on a dry soil, with a burning sun,
for several weeks, during which time the vital principle is de-
stroyed ; and hence the seed that was good becomes bad, so
called, and all the skill or management bestowed on it can no
more cause it to vegetate or grow than the most inert sub-
stance known; hence seedsmen are often charged with vend-
ing bad seeds, when the fault actually belongs to the planter,
whose duty it is to give them a fair trial before he passes
sentence of condemnation.
Light. — Although many seeds grow best in darkness, and
in many cases excluding them from light is beneficial to their
germination, they cannot continue to grow long without the
presence of light, but will turn yellow and die, for the want
of that stimulant to form their proper substance. In many
cases, seeds are covered, when sown in dry seasons, and
kept continually moist ; but when they grow, they are exposed
by degrees to sun and air. This is a good method, and may
be profitably applied to many kinds in the flower garden.
An-r. 3. — Propagation by Roots.
Increase of bulbous rooted plants. — Bulbous rooted plants
are increased by taking the offsets, or side bulbs, from the
parent plant, as the Hyacinth, Tulip, and the like. The
young bulbs are to be taken from the parent, and treated in
every way the same, with this exception, they do not require
so much room to grow, as they will not flower the first season
of planting. They must be separated from the parent with
the finger and thumb, and care should be taken not to bruise
them in the operation.
34 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Some bulbs, as the Garlic, and Shallots, form, a truss of
bulbs, from the centre of the plant, which is to be divided, in
order to form a new plant; others are increased from the tops,
as the Tiger Lily ; such are termed cauline bulbs, or bulbs
of the stalk ; they only require to be taken from, and treated
as, the parent.
Increase of tuberous rooted plants. — The tuberous rooted
are exemplified in the P&ony, and Dahlias; the root forms
a crown, to which are connected many tubers, which are to
be divided with a sharp knife, in such a manner, as to leave
part of the crown, with one or more eyes or buds to each
plant ; those parts are to be inserted in the ground, in the
same manner and soil, and treated in the same way as the
mother plant.
Increase of fibrous rooted herbaceous plants. — Fibrous
rooted herbaceous plants are increased by dividing the crown,
or main root, as the Phlox, and perennial Larkspur. This
method may be applied to most hardy fibrous rooted plants,
in the month of September, or beginning of May.
Increase by fleshy roots, — examples of which are among
many kinds of herbaceous plants, as the Campanula Pyra-
midalis, and the different varieties. Such plants are readily
propagated by breaking the roots into small pieces, an inch
or two in length, and inserting into pots so that the top of the
cutting is just equal with the surface of the earth in the pot.
In this manner, they make roots from the joints, and every
part makes a plant ; when rooted, they may be potted into
small pots, or planted into the place assigned for their final
flowering.
Geraniums, and many kinds of green-house plants, may
be propagated in this manner, by putting the cuttings of the
roots in a compost of one-fourth good sharp sand, and the
remainder prepared compost, as recommended for green-house
plants. When they are propagated in this manner, the roots
may be managed in every way the same as cuttings of the
same kind of plants.
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 35
Roses, of different varieties, may be readily increased by
the roots ; indeed, there are many kinds, as the Yellow Har-
risonii, or Harrison's Yellow, and many of the Scotch Roses,
with difficulty propagated by any other method than by roots.
It may also be applied to many kinds of the monthly with
good success. The method is to take the long running roots
of the kind desired to be increased, and cut into pieces, from
one to two or three inches in length ; this may be done in the
month of February, or any time when the plants are not in a
growing state, and when it can be done in the green-house
department; having the roots thus prepared, prepare a com-
post of a good portion of sharp sand, leaf mould, and good
maiden loam, which mix well together, fill a number of pots,
or boxes, (old glass boxes will answer a good purpose) ; the
cuttings may then be inserted into the pots, in such a manner
that their tops are even with the surface of the earth; this
done, give them a gentle watering, to settle the earth about
them, and the work is done. :-'-j -
Increase by grafting of roots. — This may be done by
grafting the roots of Roses, by putting the tender choice varie-
ties on those of a strong growth ; the Boursault, and any free
growing kinds that have long straggling roots, are the best
kinds for the stocks ; the scions, or grafts, may be taken from
the young wood of the kinds intended to be increased, which
should be well ripened. The month of February is the best
time for performing this business, and the manner of grafting
is precisely the same as that recommended under the head of
Whip Grafting. The roots for this purpose should have a
quantity of fibres at the small ends, so that they may have
means to nourish the grafts when they begin to vegetate.
When the roots are grafted, they may be put into pots, or
boxes, in the same manner as directed for roots, and placed
where they will vegetate freely ; care must be taken to keep
them well watered, and attended until they are well united,
when they may be either transplanted into the place intended
35 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
for their flowering, or into pots, if required for the green-
house department.
ART. 4. — Propagation by Running Vines and Creepers.
The Potentilla, Strawberry, and Periwinkle, are examples
of running vines. Such plants are increased by taking off
their joints where they have rooted, and planting in the same
manner and soil as their parent plants, in the month of Sep-
tember : this process may be greatly facilitated by covering
the joints with fine earth and keeping them moist previous to
their rooting.
ART. 5. — Propagation by Cuttings.
Many kinds of hardy shrubs are increased by cuttings from
the young wood of deciduous plants, which is performed in
the spring. The plants that are increased by this method,
are the JLlthea, or Rose of Sharon, Snowballs, Honeysuckles*
and most kinds of soft wooded plants. The manner of per-
forming this work, is to prepare a piece of moist, shady
ground, by digging and dressing the surface : when the ground
is ready, the cuttings are to be prepared by cutting them one
foot in length, and inserting them into the ground six inches
deep ; the rows should be eighteen inches apart, and the cut-
tings eight inches from each other in the rows. When the
cuttings are inserted, the ground must be pressed hard to them
by the foot, and raked off in a neat manner. The after man-
agement, is merely to keep the ground clean about the plants
during the summer ; and in the autumn they will be perfectly
rooted. A moist northern aspect is the best location for this
business.
ART. 6. — Propagation by Layers.
The increase of plants by layers, is performed on most
kinds of hard wooded plants in the autumn, or early in the
spring, as the Rose, and Double-flow Bering JHmond. The
manner of performing this business, is to dig and prepare the
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 87
ground about the mother plant ; the young shoots are then
prepared, by bending them down to the ground, in order to
find the proper length required to be inserted ; a sharp knife
must be applied to the under part of the shoot at a joint, cut-
ting, in a slanting manner, upward, about half an inch in
length : the part is then inserted in the soil, from two to three
inches deep, in such a manner that the wound or cut a is left
open, and pressed perpendicularly into the ground : a hooked
Fig. 1. Layering.
stick b is then placed over the layer in order to keep it in a
proper position ; raise nearly upright the end of the layer c,
which remains above the surface of the ground. This should
be done to every layer, to prevent the wound from uniting,
being the part from whence the roots will be made for the
young plant.
Carnations, Pinks, and such like plants, are chiefly in-
creased in this manner ; the proper season for laying these is
August and September. Many others, as the Sweet William
Pinks, and their natural family, may be laid by simply taking
out the centre of the plant, and placing a quantity of earth
sufficient to cover the side shoots, which will form a circle of
young plants in a few weeks.
I)
38 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 7. — Increase by Inoculation.
Many trees and shrubs are increased 'by inoculation, or
budding; which is generally done to propagate such plants as
do not thrive well by the methods heretofore described.
Inoculation may be very successfully performed on almost
every variety of Roses, as the White Moss, Unique, Bour-
boun, and all the finest varieties, — on the wild kinds, or those
of a strong habit.
The Double-lowering Apple, Double Cherry, and many
ornamental trees, may also be inoculated on those of their
natural family; and so also with all trees and shrubs that
have large full buds. The best time for performing this
operation, is when the buds that are to be taken off from the
choice kind are well ripened, and the bark, or rind, leaves the
wood freely: this will generally be about the latter end of
July, or beginning of August. The plants intended to be ino-
culated, should also be in a healthy state ; and the bark should
part freely from the wood, or the success will be doubtful.
And here it is necessary to state, that in many cases, inocu-
lation is almost uselessly performed on trees and plants that
are in an unhealthy condition; the bud inserted must eventu-
ally die for want of proper sap and nutriment.
Severe criticisms are often bestowed on gardeners, who
adopt the plan of inoculation during the season, when the
buds which are by them inserted die ; which in many cases
cannot possibly be avoided, if the plants are sickly, and do
not have their requisite food and nourishment. This is often
the case with the Orange, and Lemon, which are inoculated,
and, perhaps, exposed to the sun, without water for many
days ; in which case the buds must eventually perish for
want of nourishment. But I am now digressing, which I
hope will be excused in this place, for without some remarks
on the subject before me, it would be impossible to elucidate
the most proper and necessary points.
Jlrt.of Inoculation. — At the proper season, when the
plants to be inoculated are in a right condition, prepare for
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS.
39
the operation by collecting healthy shoots of
the summer's growth, of such kinds as are in-
tended to be increased ; when the shoots are
taken from the trees, they are to be divested
of their leaves, leaving a part of the footstalk to
the length of half an inch ; they are then to be
kept damp until they are inserted, which should
be as soon as possible after being separated from
the trees. — (See Fig. 2.)
There are many ways of inserting buds ; but
I shall confine myself to the most general, and,
I believe, most successful method, which is per-
formed by making an incision in the tree in-
tended to be inoculated, in the form of a T, (Fig.
3.) by first cutting through the rind, on the top,
in a transverse manner, holding the knife be-
tween the fore finger and thumb : the bottom in-
cision is made by drawing the point of the knife
downward an inch ; the thin end of the haft is
then to be applied to the top of the incision, in
order to part the rind from the wood, which is
done by gently lifting the top and running the
end of the haft downward to the end of the inci-
sion. The incision being made for the reception
of the bud, the next thing to be done is to pre-
pare the bud, by placing the scion in the left
hand, between the fore finger and thumb, with
the top end next to the thumb. The knife must
then be taken in the right hand, and its heel
placed half an inch below the bud intended to be
taken off; it is then to be carefully drawn up-
wards half an inch above the bud, cutting it out,
with about half the wood and bark — thus : (Fig.
4.) This being done, the part is to be placed
between the thumb and fore finger of the left
hand, and the rind gently pressed back with the
Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
40
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
edge of the knife; when the wood is to be
pinched between the thumb and knife, and di-
vided from the rind with the bud — thus : (Fig.
5.) Having the bud thus prepared, proceed to
insert it into the stock, by taking it by the strig,
between the fore finger and thumb, and pushing
it down between the rind and wood in the cavity
made by the haft of the knife, in a neat and snug
manner — (Fig- 6.,) This done, prepare to bind
it with bass mat, soft string, or other kind of
tieing, that will secure it in its proper place, and Fig. 5.
the work is done — (Fig. 7.)
Having now gone through the principal items
of the practice of Inoculation , or budding, I shall
make a few remarks on its utility and successful
treatment. Budding may be applied to almost
every kind of fruit tree, shrub, and, in some cases,
to roots, as the Dahlia, Pseony, and many tuber-
ous kinds. But, in all cases, recourse must be
had, to operate, on plants of the same family,
or little success may be expected ; that is to say,
apples must be budded on apple trees, or wild
crabs ; cherries on the cherry tree ; roses on the
rose, and so on. There are, however, exceptions
to this rule, for I have seen the pear budded on,
the apple tree, and do tolerably well, in some
cases, for awhile, although the trees, in this case,
are generally of a short duration, and it can not,
in some plants, be done to any effect whatever.
One great point in budding, is to have the stock Fig- 7.
and bud in good condition at the time of the operation; thu
young wood from which the bud is to be taken should I •
well ripened, and the bud and rind should part freely from the
wood, without tearing or injuring it; the rind on the part of
the plant intended to receive the bud should also part freely,
and the sap should follow the knife when the incision is made.
Fig. 6.
ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 41
Many trees and plants are budded when they are not in
a healthy condition, and the consequence is, that they will
jnost generally be only disfigured, and the bud will certainly
perish. There are many persons who set some definite lime
for budding trees, and they generally choose July and August.
To such rules I cannot subscribe, because different kinds of
trees even require a different season ; for instance, the pear
may be budded to good advantage in June, whilst the peach
should be deferred to September; while the rose may be
budded any time from May until October, and even in the
winter, if the bark or rind parts freely from the wood. Many
persons, also, are advocates for leaving the piece of wood in
the bud and inserting it entire, assigning as the reason for do-
ing this, its having more substance, and being less liable to
perish by drought. I have never been satisfied that this is
any improvement on the old mode of taking out the wood;
only in cases where buds have to be taken off too young or
too old, when the rind will not part from the wood without
injuring it. When the wood is taken out from the bud, it
sets closer to the stock, and, besides, it is more in its natural
position than when the wood is left in, which is of no use,
and leaves a cavity between the alburmenoftlie stock and the
inner part of the rind of the buds, the very parts where the
union ought first to take place. It may be laid down as a
general rule, that budding is the best when done in moist,
damp weather, as the rind parts freer then, and the buds take
better ; and, indeed, the morning and evening are better than
the middle of the day, in hot weather.
PART II.
MANAGEMENT OF THE FLO WER GARDEN, AND CULTURE
OF PLANTS— WITH DESCRIPTIVE LISTS.
CHAPTER I.
On the Culture of Annuals and Biennials.
ABT. 1. — Annual Flowers.
ANNUAL plants are those of one year's duration only, and
are renewed yearly by sowing the seed, as the Lady's slip-
per or Balsam, the China aster, Mignonette, and the like.
Annual flowers do not, in many cases, receive that atten-
tion they really merit, which, I imagine, is chiefly owing to
the trouble of renewing them yearly from seed, and the
proneness of most kinds to depreciate into single flowers and
inferior qualities ; however, the easy and speedy manner of
growing them, and the pretty effect they give to the flower
borders, when mixed with other plants, claim for them a place
in the flower garden. Their qualities, like all other flowers
and plants, can be retained, and, in many cases, even im-
proved by attentive management. I shall therefore proceed
to their culture, and add a Descriptive List of the best and
most appropriate kinds for the flower garden.
ART. 2. — Growing Annuals in Hot Beds, for Planting out early.
To have annuals flower early, the seed should be sown on
a moderate hot-bed early in the spring, for the purpose of
42
ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 43
transplanting in the flower bed and borders ; for this pur-
pose, prepare a hot-bed in the beginning of March, in the
following manner. Collect two good cart-loads of hot horse
manure; or, if of equal parts of leaves collected from trees in
the fall and horse manure, the better ; shake it up and mix it
well together, at different times, until it gets into a state of
fermentation, which will be in a few days, when the bed may
be made in a sheltered situation; if protected by a board
fence, the better.
Prepare the place for the bed by taking out one foot deep
of soil, a foot wider at each side and the ends than the in-
tended frame is in size. A two-light frame, four feet in width
and six feet in length, will answer a good purpose ; but in a
small garden, a frame half the size, with half the portion of
manure, will answer.
Having the place prepared, make the bed by shaking the
manure well together, in order to make it of an equal texture,
beating it down with the back of the fork as you proceed —
but never tread it with the feet, which is the cause of hot-beds
settling irregularly. The bed being made, place the frame
upon it immediately, to draw up the heat, cover it well by
night, and let it have the full influence of the sun by day, until
the heat rises, when the bed may be earthed all over with
about six inches of light, rich soil, which should be prepared
previous to its being made : half rotten leaf mould, or ma-
nure, and half mellow loam, will answer a good purpose for
compost.
When the bed is earthed, the frame may again be closed,
to draw the heat, and, so soon as it rises, the seeds, of all
kinds of annuals, may be sown in shallow drills, and lightly
covered with fine earth ; care must be taken, in this part of
the process, to give air sufficient, by night and by day, to let
off the steam that arises, in order that the youri^f plants may
not damp off, or be too much drawn in a weak and slender
manner, especially when the heat begins to rise after earthing
the bed, which will be in a few days. When the plants have
44 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
come up, two extremes must be guarded against, namely: to
be very careful that the young plants are not injured by the
chill of night, or drawn too much by being confined ; the heat
of the bed and the external air must be the criterion to go by:
the internal air of the frame should be kept as near as pos-
sible to the moderate degree of fifty-five, by Fahrenheit's
scale. As the warm weather advances, the bed may have
more air by day and night, and be treated in every manner
so as to harden the plants as they grow in size ; and finally,
the lights may be left off night and day previous to the plants
being transplanted in the garden, which maybe done with
most kinds about the 1st of May, and the tender, the 20th
of May. But where annuals are wanted to be very early in
flower, they may be much forwarded by transplanting them
out from the seed bed into another frame, an inch or two
apart, and then transplanting them into the flower garden
when the weather is sufficiently warm.
ART. 3. — Sowing the Seed in the natural ground.
The seed of annual flowers may be sown when the earth
will work well, which will be from the middle of April to the
beginning of May. This is the best time for sowing most
kinds, and if two or three sowings are made at different times,
the better success may be expected.
Having the ground well dug, or broken up with a trowel,
in order that the seed may germinate freely, prepare to sow
the seed in the following manner. Make a small circle, with
a stick, in the form of an O, about eight or ten inches in dia-
meter, from a quarter to half an inch in depth ; the larger
kinds, as the Lupines, &c., require to be planted an inch in
depth ; some difference must also be made according to the
season and state of the weather, — when the ground is dry,
late in the s&son, seeds should be sown deeper than in the
early part, when it is moist and mellow. Great care must be
taken to cover the seed very lightly with fine light earth, as
the young plants are often much injured in making their way
ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 45
through the surface. If the weather is very dry, the places
where the seeds are sown may be watered, in order to make
them vegetate more freely. When the young plants are an
inch or two high, they may be thinned to about two inches
apart, and they may be in every way treated as other plants,
according to their different habits.
In sowing annuals, some taste will be required, in order
that they show to a good advantage when in flower. In some
cases, annuals have a very pretty effect when they are sown
in beds separately, as on beds made in grass plats ; and even
in four feet lineal beds, the bright flowering kinds, as Phlox
JDmmmondii, Larkspurs, globe tfmaranthus, and the pretty
China Aster, have a very pleasing appearance. When
mingled with the different kinds of shrubs and herbaceous
plants in the flower border, they should be so arranged, that
the taller kinds are placed in the back of the border, and the
pretty dwarf kinds are brought to the front, near the eye.
There is also much taste required in placing them, so as to
have a mingled appearance in their blossoming, to form a
pleasing variety, which may be effected by referring to the
Descriptive List affixed hereto.
In forming a Descriptive List of Annuals, I have selected
those which are easily cultivated, and are suited to this cli-
mate. I am aware that there are several pretty varieties that
have been here omitted, owing to their being too tender, with
common cultivation ; and I hope the list here following will
form a satisfactory collection to those who are desirous to
cultivate them.
ART. 4. — Descriptive List of Annual Flowers.*
In giving a List of Annual Flowers, I have divided them
into three classes, namely, tender, less tender, and hardy ; a
* The list presented in this article, includes all the old and well known
varieties. For a copious descriptive list of recently introduced annual
flowers, see Appendix, Art. 1.
46 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
classification which will at once give the cultivator some
knowledge of the most proper time of sowing the different
varieties, and whether they require any protection or not in
any sudden change of weather that may occur after they are
planted into the flower borders for flowering. I have omit-
ted the time of flowering, which it would be an arduous task
to give, in annual flowers, as they will flower earlier or later,
according to circumstances and seasons. In regard to colors,
it is also difficult to give any distinctive character, as annual
flowers of all kinds are very prone to depreciate and run out,
or sport from their variety of color; indeed, the better way
of giving a list of every kind would be under the head of
varieties; however, I shall in a certain degree follow the
general rule of giving the proper colors, and merely point
out the varieties.
TENDER AXSTALS.
Amaranthus, tree, tricolor and bicolor.
globe, purple, red, white and striped.
coxcomb, com. large red, scarlet, yellow, &c.
common dwarf, of colors.
spike flowered coxcombs, a variety.
Egg Plant, white, yellow, red and prickly fruited.
Ice Plant, or diamond ficoidas, white and yellow flowered.
LESS TENDER A^XTTALS.
Amaranthus, bloody leaved, with erect flower, purple.
Aster, China, double, white, red, purple, brown, striped, &c.
Basil, common sweet, red and purple flowered.
Chrysanthemum, double, white and yellow, plain and quilled.
Convolvulus major, pink, purple and deep purple.
India, or Chinese pink, single and double, striped variously.
Love lies bleeding.
Marigold, African, pale and deep yellow, plain and quilled.
French, yellow and crimson striped, velvety.
dwarf, sorts of both African and French.
Marvel of Peru, white, yellow, red, purple and variegated.
Nasturtium, yellow and orange flower.
Scabious, sometimes made an annual.
Stock, com. ten week, red, scarlet, purple and white.
dwarf, French, fine scarlet, and varieties.
Sweet sultan, yellow, purple, red and white flowered.
Xeranthemum, or eternal flower, yellow, white, violet and purple.
Zinnia, yellow flowered, and red, many varieties.
ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 47
HARDT AJTXTJAtS.
Adonis, pheasant's eye, or bird's eye, red and yellow.
Alysson, sweet scented, white flowering.
Candytuft, white, red, crimson and purple.
Caterpillar plant, yellow, varieties.
Catchfly, LobeVs, red, purple and whits.
Clary, annual pink, purple and white topped.
Convolvulus minor, blue, white and striped.
Cyanus, or corn bottles, blue, red. purple, white and striped.
Devil in a bush, or Lady in the Green.
Hawkweed, red, pale and deep yellow.
Keimia bladder, or flower of an hour, yellow.
Larkspur, tall, branching and rocket,
dwarf rocket, of varieties.
Neapolitan, branched and spotted.
Lavatera, or Cretan mallow, red, white and purple.
Lupine, sweet scented, yellow flowered.
common, blue, white and varieties.
giant blue, and rose colored.
Mjlkw, curled leaved Syrian and Chinese, pink.
Marigold, giant, or large common double.
large Cape, leafy, and naked stalked.
French and African varieties.
Mignonette, (trailing) or sweet scented reseda.
Mulberry bl:ght, or strawberry spinach, red fruit
Pea, sweet, purple, scarlet, white, pink and white, or painted lady.
Persicarta, oriental, red flowered.
Poppy, tall, double, purple, scarlet, carnations, &c.
dwarf, or corn poppy, double, a variety.
chelidonium. or homed, scarlet, yellow.
Snails, hedge hogs and horns, yellow.
Snapdragon, annual Sicilian, white flowered.
Stock, (maritime) dwarf annual, or Virginian.
Sun flower, large double, pale and full yellow.
dwarf double ditto.
Venus 's looking glass, blue, white and purple.
naval wort, common and Portugal, white.
ART. 5. — Biennial Flowers.
Biennial plants are those which flower the second year
after planting the seed, and then generally perish ; the Fox-
glove, and Holly-hocks, are examples of this class. The term
biennial, although often applied to many kinds of plants, is
not altogether strictly correct; because, many of them will
live for three or four years, and some kinds are prolonged for
several years by propagation, as the Double Sweet William,
China Pink, or any kind which by chance produce fine kinds
48 . THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
from seedlings worth the attention of the florist to prolong
by cultivation.
Biennials are generally hardy, although several kinds, as
the Campanula grandiflora, Fox-gloves, Double China Pinks,
and Snapdragons, are worth potting in the fall, and protecting
through the winter, either in frames or the green-house, for
early flowering plants in the spring.
Culture. — This class of plants is generally increased by
sowing the seed in the spring, in small patches, in the flower
borders, or in rows in a four feet bed, where the young plants
may remain to the latter end of August, or beginning of Sep-
tember, or so soon as the ground is sufficiently moist, after
the hot months, to warrant the planting them out for final
flowering the next year. This may be done either by plant-
ing them in four feet beds, in the place where they are to
remain, or the plants may be planted singly in the flower
border, where they are intended to remain for flowering.
The choice kinds of Sweet William, China Pink, Snapdragon,
and, indeed, any fine double flowering plants that are worth
saving, may be prolonged by layering down the young shoots
about the beginning of September, and taking off the young
plants when rooted, and planted into the place intended for their
final flowering the next spring. As there are but few varie-
ties of this class of plants, I shall speak of them separately in
this place, or, at least, those which can be easily cultivated in
the flower garden, and are perfectly hardy ; those of a tender
kind, which are often cultivated for the purpose of flowering
in the green-house, I have deferred to their proper place in
the Miscellany.
Columbine, — a pretty genus of plants, many of whinh are
natives, and found growing on rocky situations in various
parts of the United States, and highly deserving culture ; the
double, or garden varieties, are of various colors, from white
to a dark purple, and easily cultivated, by sowing the seed in
the spring and planting out in the fall among the herbaceous
plants in the flower borders.
ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 49
Fox-glove. — There are two varieties of this pretty plant
worth cultivating, the purple and the white, which should
find their way into every flower garden.
Honesty, or Satin Flower, a pretty dwarf plant, with pur-
ple flowers.
Hollyhock. — This noble family of flowers is highly deserv-
ing a more general cultivation, and should be carefully culti-
vated as a florist flower. There are many superb kinds now
to be found at the seed stores, of the Chinese variety, which
produce fine double flowers, of every hue and color, from a
clear white to a dark purple ; many of which, when regularly
grown into fine double flowers, are not inferior to the Double
Dahlia.
Snapdragon. — A pretty class of flowers, of various colors,
deserving a place in every flower garden.
Canterbury Bells — of which there are two desirable va-
rieties, the white and the purple, which are generally to be
found, and are pretty flowers, in the early spring flowering.
Pinks, Carnations, and Sweet Williams, are also deno-
minated biennials, although, as before stated, they all will live
and flower, sometimes for three or four successive years, by
increasing them by layering, cuttings, and dividing the roots.
All of these have many varieties of flowers, which can gene-
rally be obtained by purchasing the seed of the different
seedsmen in various parts of the Union. The China Pink,
a very pretty kind, which has many varieties of brilliant
flowers, is particularly desirable for cultivation.
E
CHAPTER II.
On the Culture of Perennials.
ART. 1. — Perennial Herbaceous Plants.
PERENNIAL herbaceous plants, are those which die down to
the root yearly, the roots of which remain many years ; they
are exemplified in the Phlox, Paeony, Golden Rod, Asters,
and many other kinds of native plants.
There is no class of plants more deserving general culture
in the flower garden, than perennials ; which, when once in-
troduced, require but little attention; their increase is also
of the most encouraging nature, which, in most varieties, is
simply the dividing of, or parting the roots, in summer, after
they have done flowering, and choosing a moist, rainy time
for the operation, in order that they may readily make young
roots, and become well established before winter. By this
method, perennial plants generally flower better in the spring,
than in the most general method of planting late in the
fall or spring; their roots, in such instances, are not so well
established, and consequently flower weaker.
Herbaceous plants may be divided into three classes,
namely: Bulbous, as the Tulip, Hyacinth, and most Lilies;
Tuberons, as the Dahlia and Pxony; and Fibrous, as the
Perennial Phlox, Coreopsis, Delphinium, &c. These sepa-
rate divisions may be again subdivided into hardy and tender,
with reference to the different climates to which they belong :
for instance, among bulbs, Tulips and Hyacinths are hardy —
the Jacobean Lily, Mexican Lily, and Gladiolus Citycinus,
are tender ; among tuberous roots, the Pseony is hardy, and
the Dahlia is tender; and among fibrous, most kinds are
hardy ; (and, indeed, the greater portion of the best hardy
perennial plants are indigenous to this country ;) although, in
many cases, they are killed in the winter by wet saturating
their crowns, when left bare and uncovered ; it is therefore
50
ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS.
51
necessary that they should be partially covered in the win-
ter, to guard them against being injured in that manner.
In planting hardy herbaceous plants, the principal object to
be borne in mind, is their height, color, and time of flowering,
in order that they may be so distributed in the beds as to form
a pleasing variety, which may be effected by referring to the
Descriptive List, subjoined hereto. Care should also be taken
that the plants are so chosen as to have a succession of flow-
ers during the season. This may be greatly facilitated by
cutting down a part of the young shoots of Delphiniums,
early flowering, Phlox, &c. to the ground, about the time
they are beginning to show their buds ; by this method, a
succession of the same kind of flowers may be kept up dur-
ing the season ; those which are cut, being deterred from
flowering, make a second growth, and come into flower after
those of their natural growth have exhausted themselves.
ART. 2. — Descriptive List of Herbaceous Perennial Flowering Plants.
Botanical Name.
English Name. Color.
Height.
Time of flowering.
ACHILLEA.
SWEEZEWORT.
montana
mountain White
1ft.
August
ACONITUM.
ACOKITCM.
japonicum
Japan Blue
6
June, Aug.
album
white White
4
July, Aug.
napcllus
Monks-hood Blue
i
May, July.
ACT^EA.
ACTJBA.
album
white White
3
April, June.
AMSONIA.
AMSOXIA. N. P.
salicifolia
Willow leaved Blue
2
May, June.
latifolia
broad leaved Blue
2
May, June.
ANEMONE.
AXZMOXE.
Pulsatilla
pasque flower Violet
i
April, May.
hepatica
nemorosa
common hepatica Blue
double white White
1
April, May.
March, May.
ASCLEPIAS.
SWALLOW WORT. N. P.
tuberosa
tuberous rooted Orange
2
July, Aug.
incarnata
flesh colored Purple
2
July, Aug.
decumbens
decumbent Orange
2
July, Aug.
ASTER.
STAR-WORT.
Nova Anglicae
amygdalinus
New England Purple
Almond leaved White
6
3
Sept Oct.
July, Oct
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name.
English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering.
CAMPANULA. BELL FLOWER.
azurea
versicolor
urticifolia
persicifolia, pi.
urticifolia
var. alba
CASSIA.
marilandica
azure Blue
various colored Striped
nettle-leaved Purple
peach-leaved White
nettle-leaved Blue
double white White
CASSIA. N. P.
Maryland Yellow
CENTAUREA. CENTAURY.
nigra Black Knapweed Purple
CHELONE. CHELONE.
barbata bearded Red
glabra smooth White
Antwerpianus Antwerp P. straw
CLEMATIS. VIRGIN'S BOWER.
integrifolia entire-leaved Blue
erecta upright White
alpina Alpine White
angustifolia narrow-leaved Blue
COMMELINA. COMMELINA. N. P.
virginica Virginian Blue
CONVALLARIA. LILT OF THE VALLEY.
majalis major White
COREOPSIS. COREOPSIS. N. P.
grandiflora large flowering Yellow
ianceolata lance-leaved
auriculata ear-leaved
tenuifolia slender-leaved
CORONILLA. CORONILLA.
coronata crown-headed
var. beautiful
CYNOGLOSSUM. HOUND'S TONGUE.
omphaloides comfrey leaved Blue
DELPHINIUM. LARKSPUR.
grandiflorum great flowered
elatum common Bee
chinense Chinia
barlowii Barlow's
DICTAMNUS. FRAXINELLA.
rubra red
albus white
DODECATHEON. AMERICAN COWSLIP.
meadia meadia White
DRACOCEPHALUN. DRAGON'S HEAD. N. P.
denticulatum toothed Striped
variegatum variegated Spotted
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Purple
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Red
White
2 ft. July, Aug.
July, Sept
Aug.
June, July.
July.
July.
Aug.
May, Aug.
July, Sept.
July, Sept
July, Sept.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
July.
May, July.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
July, Aug.
June, July.
July.
July, Aug.
Sept. Oct.
June, Sept.
June, Sept.
July.
Aug.
May, June.
April, May.
Aug., Sept
Aug., Sept
ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS.
53
Botanical Name.
English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering.
virginianum
Virginian Purple
2ft.
Aug., Sept.
speciosum
showy Pink
2
July, Aug.
ERYNGIUM.
ERIXGO.
planum
flat-leaved L. Blue
2
Jury, Sept
EUPATORIUM.
EUPATORIUM. N. P.
coelestinum
celestrial Blue
2
Sept Oct
GEXTIANA.
GEXTIAH.
verna
spring Blue
i
May.
acaulis
dwarf Blue
I
March, April.
catesbaei
Catesby's Blue
1|
July. Sept
saponaria
soapwort Blue
2
Aug. Sept.
GERANIUM.
CRAKE'S BILL.
sylvaticum
wood Blue
I|
May, June.
angulatum
angular Purple
1
May, June.
HELIANTHUS.
SUNFLOWER.
divaricatus
divaricate Yellow
6
Aug., Oct.
plenus
double Yellow
3
Aug., Oct
fHEMEROCALLIS
. DAT LILT.
Fleshy rooted.
Japonica
white-flowered White
1
Aug. Sept
ccerulea
blue-flowered Blue
1
July, Aug.
flava
yellow Yellow
2
June, July.
HEPATIC A.
HEPATICA. N. P.
triloba
Early Anemone Purple
*
April, May.
HESPERIS.
ROCKET.
matronalis
matronly Purple
4
July, Sept
HIBISCUS.
HIBISCUS.
palustris
marsh Pink
4
July, Sept
var. albus
white White
3
July, Sept
militaris
military Purple
4
July, Sept
HRIS.
IBIS.
Flesh rooted.
prismatica
New Jersey Purple
2
May, June.
versicolor
various colored Striped
1
May, June.
pumila
dwarf Purple
*
April, May.
sibirica
Siberian L. blue
2
May, June.
LATHYRUS.
PERENNIAL PEA.
latifolius
broad-leaved Pink
6
July, Sept.
tuberosus
tuberous Red
2
July, Aug.
LIATRIS.
LIATRIS.
scariosa
scarious cupped Purple
3
July, Aug.
pilosa
hairy-leaved Purple
3
July, Aug.
spicata
long-spiked Purple
6
Aug., Oct
LOBELIA.
LOBELIA.
cardinalis
Cardinal-flower Scarlet
3
May, Oct
syphilitica
blue-cardinal Blue
2
May, Aug.
splendens
splendid Scarlet
3
May.
fulgens
fulgent Scarlet
3
May, Sept
E2
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color.
Height. '
rime of flower in j
LUPIN US.
LUPINE.
perennis
perennial
Blue
2ft.
May, July.
polyphyllus
many-leaved
B. White
3
May, July.
LYCHNIS.
LYCHXIS.
chalcedonica
scarlet
Scarlet
3
June, July.
var. pleno
double scarlet
Scarlet
3
June, July.
var. alba
double white
White
3
June, July.
LYSIMACHIA.
LOOSE-STRIFE.
verticillata
whorled
Yellow
3
July, Aug.
ciliata
ciliated
Yellow
3
July, Aug.
stricta
upright
Yellow
3
July, Aug.
Nummularia
Moneywort
Yellow
2
July, Aug.
LYTHRUM.
WILLOW HERB.
Salicaria
common
Purple
4
Aug.
verticilatum
whorl leaved
Purple
3
July, Aug.
MONARDA.
MOXARDA.
didyma
Oswego tea
Blue
3
July, Aug.
clinopodia
wild-basil-leaved
P. white
2
July.
purpurea
crimson
Purple
3
June, Aug.
CENOTHERA.
(E \OTHKIIA.
Fraseri
Eraser's
Yellow
1
May, Oct
PAPAVER.
POPPY.
orientate
oriental
Red
3
May, June.
bracteatum
bracted
Red
3
May, June.
PARDANTHUS.
PARDANTHUS.
chinensis
Chinese
Orange
2
June, July.
PENTSTEMON
PEKTSTEMOIT.
campanulatus
bell-flowered
It. purple
2
March, Oct.
pubescens
broad-leaved
Purple
2
March, Oct.
angustifolius
chandlerii
narrow-leaved
Chandler's
L. purple
Purple
2
2
July, Sept
March, Sept.
mackayanum
Makay's
Purple
2
March, Sept
pulchellum
pretty
Lilac
2
March, Sept.
coccineum
scarlet
Scarlet
2
March, Sept.
POTENTILLA.
ClXaUEFOIL.
formosa
beautiful
Red
2
May, Sept
atrosanguinea
dark crimson
Puce
2
May.. Sept
RUDBECKIA.
RUDBECKIA.
purpurea
purple
Purple
4
July, Oct
fulgida
yellow
Yellow
2
July, Oct
SAPONARIA.
SOAPWORT.
officinalis
officinal
White
2
July, Aug.
SAXIFRAGA.
SAXIFRAGE.
crassifolia
thick-leaved
Purple
1
May.
SMIL AX.
SHILAX.
herbacea
herbaceous
Green
4
July.
ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS.
55
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
SPIR.EA.
SFIUJEA.
Filipendula
Dropwort
White 2ft.
June, Oct.
lobata
lobed
Red 2
July, Aug.
ulmifolia
elm-leaved
White 3
May, June.
flora pleno
double-white
White 2
May, June.
STATICE.
SEA LAVENDER.
armenia.
Pink 1
July, Aug.
TRADESCANTIA.
SPIDERWORT.
virginica
Virginian
Blue 1
May, Oct.
var. alba
white
White 1
May, Oct.
rosea
rose-flowered
Pink 1
May, Oct.
TROLLIUS.
GLOBE FLOWER.
europseus
European
Yellow 2
May, June.
VALERIANA.
VALERIAN.
rubra
red
Red 3
July, Aug.
VERBASCUM.
MULLEIN.
purpureum
purple
Purple 4
July, Aug.
VERONICA.
SPEEDWELL.
gentianoides
gentian-like
Dark blue 2
May, June.
siberica
Siberian
Blue 3
July, Aug.
hybrida
Welsh
Blue 2
July, Sept
spicata
spiked
Blue 2
July, Sept
latifoUa
broad-leaved
W.blue 2
May, June.
Teucrium
Germander-leaved
L. blue 2
June, Aug.
VIOLA.
VIOLET.
odorata
var. alba
sweet
white-flowered
Purple 1
White £
April, May.
April, May.
var. plena
grandiflora
double-white
great-flowering
White $
D. blue $
April, May.
May, Aug.
YUCCA.
ADAM'S NEEDLE.
filamentosa
thready
White 3
Sept
gloriosa
superb
White 4
Aug.
ART. 3.— On the Culture of the Phlox.
This beautiful family of plants are mostly indigenous to
this continent, and are the pride of the western prairies in the
spring ; where hundreds of acres are completely covered with
their lively tinselled blossoms. Many varieties are also found
in the state of Ohio, near the vicinity of Cincinnati; and
several pretty dwarf varieties, as the Moss-pink, grow spon-
taneously on the mountainous parts of New York state, and
give a pleasing effect in the early part of the spring, when
few other plants are to be seen in blossom.
56 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
The Phlox combines many desirable properties, and is
admirably adapted to the American flower garden ; the roots
being perfectly hardy, are easily increased and cultivated. It
is pleasing and various in the color of its blossoms, and con-
tinues in flower, in a well chosen collection, from March until
late in the fall. To what state of perfection the Phlox may
attain to, time alone will determine ; although it is very rea-
sonable to suppose, it will in a few years have but few rivals,
as a " florist flower," when it is considered how readily new
varieties are obtained from seed, in conjunction with the lively
colors of the flower, and its natural modification of petals or
flowers approaching the desired properties of a florist flower.
Culture. — The Phlox may be increased from seed, by
which new varieties may be obtained. The seed may be
sown early in the spring, either in patches in the flower
border, or in drills, for the purpose of transplanting, either
into beds or to be mingled in the flower borders for final
flowering. The young plants may be transplanted so soon
as they have three or four rough leaves, which will generally
be about the beginning or middle of June ; they should have
every encouragement by culture to make them grow freely,
and by this means they will flower in profusion in the fall.
To this method may be added, that of parting the roots in
September, or early in the spring, and putting out cuttings
of the young shoots in the month of May, in a shady situa-
tion, which will be well rooted and ready for planting out in
the fall.
Soil. — The Phlox will flourish in almost any soil, although
a rich mellow loam answers best; and in it the plants will
flower to a greater perfection than in a poor sandy soil ; it
also requires a free, open exposure ; and has a beautiful effect
when planted in separate beds, in a grass plat, or other con-
spicuous place, near the dwelling.
I herewith append a list of the most approved varieties,
which can be obtained of most of the florist and nurserymen
in different parts of the States.
ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS.
57
ART. 4. — Descriptive List of Phlox.
Dot. Name. English Name.
Acuminate tall purple
Breck's seedling
Carter's seedling
small flowered
early flowering
spotted stalls
breckii
carnea
parviflora
divaricata
maculate
pyramidalis Pyramidal
striata striped
purpurea late purple
pyramidalis white
repens creeping
striatiflora Carter's striped
stolonefera creeping
carnea incarnate
van houtii
verna
youngii
undulate
brownii
tardiflora
subulate
nivalis
decussata
Color. Remarks.
P. purple [Breck, Boston,
a seedling grown by Mr.
raised by Mr. Carter, Boston.
flowers in July,
flowers in July ; native,
flowers from June till Sept.
Incarnate
Purple
P. purple
D. red
Red
Variegated
Purple
White
Red pretty dwarf early variety.
Variegated splendid variety.
Red flowers in April ; of dwarf, low
P. red [habit.
Van Route's striped Variegated beautiful variety.
vernal flowering
Young's
wave leaved
Brown's
sweet
moss pink
white moss pink
decussate
procumbens procumbent
scabra rough leaved
Carolina Carolina
paniculate panicled
suaveolens sweet scented
wheelerii Wheeler's
* pictum Carter's pictured
White spring flowering.
Crim. lilac new.
Red middle of summer.
Red new.
White late flowering variety
Pink dwarf early flowering.
Pure white dwarf early flowering,
White
Red
Purple
Br. red
Red
Wrhite
Purple
flowers in July,
late flowering.
flowers hi the summer,
new.
Variegated a most beautiful variety.
ABT. 5. — On the Culture of the Paeonia.
The Pseonia, or Paeony, so called, derives its name from
PEON, (a physician, who first used it in medicine) ; it forms
one of the noblest families of plants belonging to the flower
garden, and is increasing every where, by the attention paid
by florists in raising new varieties from seed, by hybridizing
of the finer varieties one with another. This family forms
two separate divisions of plants, one being suflrutescent or
shrubby, as the Tree-paeony; and the other herbaceous, as
the common red, or Crimson Paeony, well known in almost
every flower garden. Within these few years, splendid ad-
ditions to this noble flower have been introduced from China, ,
58 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
which are known under the name of the Chinese Paeony, as
the Moutan, and its variety of the Tree; and the Fragrans,
and Whitlejiij are also descendants from that country. There
are also many fine varieties from Siberia, Switzerland, and
the Levant, of the herbaceous Paeony, which are now becom-
ing numerous, and, like the rose, give many shades of color,
from a clear white to a deep crimson, and in some varieties
we have fragrance also.
The herbaceous Paeony adapts itself to a variety of soil and
climate, and to this it may be said to be perfectly hardy,
bearing our most severe winters without the least injury; the
tree Paeony is not, however, quite so hardy as the herbaceous
kinds, although, in most parts, the plants may be secured
from the frost by covering the wood in the fall, in the same
manner as is recommended for the China rose and tender
shrubs. This beautiful shrub has been cultivated in the
green-house many years, and is at this time one of the best
acquisitions to that department. It has also a very pretty
effect planted out as a single object, in small grass plats, and,
indeed, the herbaceous kinds answer well for that mode of
ornamenting of grass plats in small places.
Culture. — The Paeony adapts itself to any soil, although a
rich, deep, mellow loamy soil is the best for it to flourish and
bloom in perfection ; when once planted, it requires but little
attention, only to cut off the dead leaves in the spring ; — this
is often improperly done immediately after the flowering is
over, which greatly exhausts the plants, and injures the
flowering in the following season.
Propagation. — New varieties of both kinds are obtained
from seed, which may be sown early in the spring, in pots of
rich mellow soil, and well attended to during the summer ;
and in the following spring the young plants may be potted
off, (if the tree variety,) and treated as green-house plants, in
order to forward their flowering, which will probably be three
years after sowing the seed. The herbaceous kinds may be
planted into the flower borders, where they may remain until
ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS. 59
they flower, when they are to be treated precisely the same
as the herbaceous kinds in culture.
Dividing the roots. — This may be done to increase the
herbaceous kinds in the early part of the spring, in precisely
the same manner as directed under the head of " Propagation
of Perennial Tuberous Roots"
Grafting the tree Pseony. — This may be effected by in-
serting the young shoot of the tree Pseonia into the tuberous
root of the herbaceous kind, by cutting the tuber square on
the top, and cleaving the root, precisely the same as directed
for the Dahlia, and inserting the graft, cut in the shape of a
wedge, which see under the proper head of grafting. To
this method, I add an extract from a writer in London's
Gardener's Magazine, who gives the following excellent items
on propagating of Pseonia Moutan.
" In February, select any of the stems of the Paeonia
Moutan, or all may be used ; and at the distance of half an
inch from the centre of each bud, both above and below it,
cut out entirely round the stem a small ring of the bark, rather
more than the sixteenth of an inch wide, in the manner of
common ringing, as practised on fruit trees. Thus every bud
will occupy one inch of the stem, where the direct continua-
tion of its bark is obstructed, both above and below, by the
rings which have been cut out of it. The stems so prepared
are then to be laid horizontally about three inches beneath
the soil, leaving only the leading bud at the end of each
branch above the surface. In six months, every bud will
have made a vigorous shoot, and, in general, will have two
radical fibres at its base. In August, remove the soil from
above the layers, and having raised the newly made roots,
carefully separate each young shoot from the main layer, by
passing a small knife from one ring to the other, cutting out
about one-third part of the old stem. The young plants
should then be immediately potted, to remain till they are
required for planting out in their final situations. After thus
gathering the first crop of young plants, the old layers should
60 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
be again covered with good soil, and left as before ; and in
the following summer a second and greater crop of plants will
be produced than in the first season, and what is most re-
markable, they will issue from various parts of the stem,
where no trace of a bud was previously indicated.
" Again, if a stem be detached from the parent plant and
treated as described above, and then laid in soil in a pine pit
or stove, it will shoot almost as freely as if connected with
the original root.
"In another experiment, cuttings, of about an inch in
length, were made of the Pceonia Moutan in the manner of
vine cuttings, having one bud on each, and about half of the
stem behind the bud slit up, and the pith removed. These
were put three inches deep in pots of soil, and plunged into
an exhausted bark bed, having a temperature of about 60°.
In the space of two months, these cuttings made young
shoots through the soil, and grew freely."
Descriptive List of Pseonias.
In forming a Descriptive List of the Pasonia, I have se-
lected those varieties that can be obtained of most florists,
and that are of various colors, and free blooming plants.
There are many new varieties, which are now added to the
list, so similar to those already described, that it is useless
to give them a place in a small choice collection ; besides,
they are very difficult to obtain at moderate prices.
i Hardy Herbaceous Pseonias for the Flower Borders.
Botanical Name. English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering.
Whitlejii
double white
White
2ft.
May, June.
Humei
Hume's double crimson
Red
2
May, June.
fragrana
fragrant
Red
2
May, June.
tartarica
Tartarian
White
2
May, June.
rosea
roseate
Red
2
May.
tenuifolia
fine-leaved
Red
2
May.
paradoxa
albiflora
paradoxical
white flowered
Purple
White
2
2
May.
May.
officinalis
officinal
Red
2
May.
Grevillii
sibirica
Greville's
Siberian
Purple
White
2
2
May.
May.
ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AXD VINES.
61
Botanical Name.
Reevesii
papaveriflora
albiflora sinensis
Pottsii
albiflora siberica
Andersonii
anemoniflora
fimbriata
English Name,
double crimson
double poppy flowered
white Chinese
Potts'
single Siberian
Anderson's
anemone flower
fringe leaved
Color. Height. Time of flowering.
Crimson l£ft. May.
White 2 May.
White 2
Db. crimson 2
White
Blush
2
2
Crimson 2
Crimson 2
May.
May.
May.
May.
May.
May.
Pseonia Moutan, or Tree Pseonias, adapted for the green-
house or flower garden.-—'
Botanical Name.
Arborea
papaveracea
rosea
Banksise
Banksiae palida
English Name,
tree
poppy flowered
Banks'
large double red
Banksiae expansi expanded Banks'
Color.
Purple
White
Pink
Pink
Eed
Blush
Height.
3ft.
3
3
3
3
3
Time of flowering.
April, May.
April, May.
April, May.
April, May.
April, May.
April, May.
CHAPTER III.
On the Culture of Shrubs and Vines.
ART. 1. — Shrubs.
SHRUBS are either deciduous or evergreen; the former are
exemplified in the Lilac, Double-lowering Almond, and
Snow-berry ; the latter, in the Kalmia, or American Laurel,
and those plants that are always clothed with leaves, — and
hence the name evergreen.
Shrubs may be considered as the lower order of trees.
They are a very useful class of plants for the flower garden,
and are especially adapted for the embellishment of side en-
trances, and many parts about town and country residences.
In the parterre, or small flower garden, they form a prominent
feature, where they are planted in the centre of flower beds
and borders ; in other cases, they form good facing to the
F
02 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
larger kinds of trees that are planted as belts on the margin
of flower gardens and ornamental grounds.
There are few countries that possess a better collection of
native shrubs than the United States ; and, indeed, in Europe
the first consideration, on laying out flower gardens and ex-
tensive grounds, is to prepare a piece of ground purposely for
the American flower garden. However, the native shrubs
and plants are much neglected in culture here, which, I
imagine, is chiefly owing to their being considered too com-
mon, while those plants which are brought from foreign
countries are highly prized. Whatever may be the opinion
of others, I cannot conceive that their being natives of this or
that country can in any wise affect the real worth of flowers
and plants, which in themselves are beautiful to every be-
holder, and are intended by Providence as natural embellish-
ments. It is their finely woven texture and rich coloring,
that should engage our admiration, and not the country which
has given birth to any particular variety. I hope, therefore,
that in future the many pretty varieties of native shrubs and
plants will find a place, and be cultivated, in the shrubbery
and flower garden, where they can with every propriety be
introduced to a good purpose. Indigenous, or native plants,
having qualities adapted to the country, will assume a most
pleasing character, and be much improved by culture.
In planting shrubs, like herbaceous and all other kinds of
plants, the general rule must be, to place them as much as
possible in their most appropriate situation. For instance,
the pretty dwarf varieties, as the Mezeron, and Double-
flowering Almond, are the most appropriate for small flower
beds, and the facing of the shrubbery; the taller kinds, as the
Lilac, are generally planted to cover unsightly objects, old
boarded fences, and the like.
Propagation. — Most kinds of shrubs are easily increased,
by taking th« suckers from the parent plants, as they are
generally prone to give out suckers from their roots ; all the
free growing, soft wooded kinds, may be propagated by
ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND VINES. 63
cuttings, as recommended under their proper heads, " on the
Propagation of Plants;" and many kinds, as the slender
growing varieties, do well by being layered ; which see,
under the head of u Layering of Plants."
In giving a Descriptive List of Shrubs, I have divided
them into two classes — the dwarf, and the tall, and have
given their height, color, and time of flowering, as near as
possible, on a medium scale, with reference to soils and loca-
tion, where they are generally to be found growing as orna-
mental plants.
ART. 2.— Descriptive List of Dwarf Hardy Shrubs.
Botanical Name.
English Name. Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
AMYGDALIS.
DOUBLE-FL. ALMOND.
pumila
double-dwarf Red 3 ft.
May.
AZALEA.
AMERICAN HONET SCCKLE. N. P.
nudiilora
naked-flowered Pink 3
May, June.
viscosa
clammy White 3
July, Aug.
calendulacea
marigold-like Orange 4
May, June.
alba
early white White 3
May, June.
CALYCANTHUS.
SWEET SCENTED SHRUB. N. P.
floridus
Carolina Purple 5
May, Aug.
laevigatus
smooth-leaved Purple 6
May, July.
CLETHRA.
CLETHRA.
alnifolia
alder-leaved White 5
Aug., Oct
COLUTEA.
BLADDER SENNA.
arborescens
com. arborescens Yellow 6
July, Aug.
pocockii
Pocock's Yellow 6
June, Aug.
CORONILLA.
COHONILLA.
Emerus
Scorpion Senna Red 3
May, June.
CORCHORUS.
JAPAN GLOBE-FLOWER.
japonicus
Japan . Yellow 5
July, Oct.
DAPHNE.
DAPHNE.
Mezereum
Mezeron Purple 3
April, May.
var. album
white White 3
April, May.
DEUTZIA.
DECTZIA.
scabra
rough-leaved White 4
May, June.
HYDRANGEA.
HYDRANGEA. N. P.
quercifolia
oak-leaved W. green 3
June, Sept
radiata
ray-leaved White 4
July, Aug.
HYPERICUM.
ST. JOHN'S WORT.
Kalmianum
Kalmi's Yellow 3
July, Aug.
frondosum
leafy Yellow 3
July, Aug.
64
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name.
English Name. Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
LONICERA.
LONICERA.
tartarica
Tartarian Pink 10
April, May.
Xylosteum
Fly-honeysuckle Yellow 8
T
June.
italica
Italian early white White 6
April.
canadensis
Canadian White 6
April.
PHILADELPHUS.
SYRISTGA.
coronaria
garland White 6
July, Aug.-
variegatus
variegated White 4
July, Aug.
grandiflorus
inodorus
large-flowered White 3
scentless White 6
July, Aug.
June, July.
nanus
dwarf White 2
June, July.
POTENTILLA.
SHRUBBT CIJTCITTEFOII..
fruticosa
trifoil-leaved Yellow 3
July, Aug.
PYRUS.
PYRUS.
japonica
Japan Purple 4
April, May.
alba
white White 4
April, May.
EHODORA.
RHODORA. N. P.
canadensis
Canadian Purple 3
April, May.
ROBINIA.
ROBIXIA.
hispida
Rose acacia Pink 6
May, Sept.
RIBES.
MISSOURI CURRANT. N. P.
aureutn
fragrant Yellow 6
April, June.
RUBUS.
BRAMBLE.
odoratus
flowering Red 6
June, Aug.
SPIRAEA.
SPIRJEA. N. P.
sorbifolia
pinnated White 4
Aug.
opulifolia
Guelder-rose leaved White 5
June, Aug.
hyperci folia
Italian May flower White 6
May, June.
chamsedrifolia
Germander-leaved White 2
June, Aug.
trilobata
three-lobed White 3
June.
laevigata
smooth-leaved Red 4
May, June.
salicifolia
willow-leaved Pink 5
June, Aug.
tomentosa
tomentosa Pink 5
Aug., Sept.
STAPHYLEA.
BLADDER NUT. N. P.
trifoliata
three-leaved White 6
May, June.
SYMPHORIA-.
ST. PETER'S WREATH. N. P.
glomerata
common Pink 4
Aug., Sept.
racemosa
Snowberry Pink 3
July, Aug.
variegata
variegated 3
July, Aug.
SYRINGA.
LlLAC.
purpurea
purple-flowered Purple 8
May, June.
persica
Persian - Purple 4
May, June.
var. alba
white White 4
May, June.
alba
white White 5
May, June.
chinensis
Chinese Violet 4
May, June.
ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND VINES.
65
ART. 3. — Descriptive List of Tall Shrubs, and Dwarf Ornamental Trees.
[ Those marked thus * are used for single ornamental objects on
lawns. &c.]
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color.
Height. '
Time of floweri
^ESCULUS.
HORSE CHESSTUT.
*coccinea
scarlet
Scarlet
10
June, July.
parviflora
small-flowered
White
• 10
June, July.
variegatum
striped-leaved
White
16
April, May.
AMORPHA.
BASTARD IJTDIGO.
fruticosa
shrubby
Purple
10
June, July.
CORNUS.
DOGWOOD.
florida
large-flowered
White
15
April.
sanguinea
blood-red
White
8
June, July.
CRATJEGUS.
HAWTHORN.
pleno
double
White
10
June.
*monogynia
one-styled
White
10
June.
*coccinea
scarlet-fruited
White
20
June.
EUONYMUS.
SPIXDLE TREE. N.
P.
*americanus
Burning bush
Pink
10
June, July.
*fructu albo
white-fruited
White
10
June, July.
*atropurpurea
purple-fruited
Purple
10
June, July.
FAGUS.
BEECH.
•purpurea
purple-leaved
15
*cuprea
copper-leaved
18
FRAXINUS.
ASH.
*pendula
weeping
8
HALISEA.
SNOWDROP THEE.
NP.
tetraptera
four-winged
White
6
April, May.
HIBISCUS.
HIBISCUS.
syriacus
althea frutex
Purple
8
Aug, Sept.
rubro pleno
double red
Dark red
8
July, Sept
albo pleno
double white
White
8
July, Sept
variegatus
striped double
Striped
8
Aug. Sept.
LIGUSTRUM.
PRIVET.
vulgare
striped-leaved
White
8
June, July.
variegatus
sweet scented
White
8
June, July.
MAGNOLIA.
MAGNOLIA.
glauca
sweet scented
White
8
April.
purpurea
purple
Purple
8
June.
Thompsonia
Thomson's
White
20
June.
SALIX.
WILLOW.
caprea
great round-leaved
12
pentandra
Bay-leaved
12
pendula
weeping
20
SHEPERDIA.
BUFFALO TREE. N
.P.
eleagnoides
silver-leaved
White
12
April.
SPARTIUM.
BROOM.
gcoparium
common
Yellow
6
May, June.
6
F2
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name.
SOPHORA.
English Name.
SOPHORA.
Color.
Height.
Time of flower
japonica
japonicurn
VIBURNUM.
opulus
oxycoccus
S. VOW BALL.
Guelder rose
cranberry-like
White
White
10
12
May, June.
July.
ART. 4.— Hardy Running Vines, for covering Arbors, &c.
The Honeysuckle, and Clematis, are examples of running
vines that are useful for the covering of arbors, trellises,
walls, and the like. Vines are readily propagated by layers
and cuttings, which see, under the head of Propagation.
Spring pruning and dressing Vines. — All kinds of hardy
vines may be pruned in the spring, in a regular manner, by
cutting out all the dead branches, and regulating the remainder
in such a manner that they may be at an equal distance apart,
when they are to be nailed with shreds of woollen or leather,
or tied in a neat manner with bass or other string.
Summer pruning. — The summer pruning may be com-
menced so soon as the young shoots are grown six or seven
inches, by thinning them out in such a manner that they are
at an equal distance apart, and allowing room for their future
growth. The young shoots should afterwards be regularly
attended to during the summer, in pruning off all superfluous
wood, and training the remainder in a neat manner — not too
thickly together, which is often the case, and by which they
are often much injured.
ART. 5. — Descriptive List of Hardy Vines.
Botanical Name. English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering.
BIGNONIA.
TRUMPET FLOWER.
rad leans
ash-leaved
Orange
30
July, Aug.
major
large-leaved
Orange
30
July, Aug.
CLEMATIS.
VIRGIN'S BOWER.
virginica
Virginian
G. white
15
June, Aug.
flamula
sweet-scented
White
15
July, Oct.
verticilata
American
Purple
15
Mav, June.
sieboldi
Siebold's
W. purple
15
May, Sept.
Californica
white
White
15
May.
ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND TIXES. 67
Botanical Name. English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering.
GLYCINE. GLTCIXE.
trutescens shrubby Purple
15
June, Sept.
Apios tuberous-rooted Pink
IS
Aug., Sept
CAPRIOFOLIUM. HONEYSUCKLE.
Periclymenum English woodbine Red
18
June, Sept
variegatum var. woodbine Red
15
June, July.
sempervirens tnimpet Scarlet
18
May, Aug.
Fraseri Yellow-trumpet Yellow
20
May, July.
rubrum red-flowered Red
15
May, July.
flexuosa evergreen Red
15
May.
ART. 6. — On the Culture of Evergreen Shrubs.*
Evergreen Shrubs are those plants which are continually
green, and are of two denominations ; one of which form
pretty families of flowering shrubs, as the Kalmia, or Ameri-
can Laurel; and the other division consists of ornamental
plants, to give a variety among the deciduous shrubs, as the
Arbor Vitse^ Juniper, and the like. Evergreen shrubs are a
very desirable class of plants, and are admirably adapted to
mingle in the shrubbery ; or some of the neat growing kinds
may be planted to a good advantage to form screens, and
evergreen fences, either for the purpose of shading and pro-
tecting tender plants in winter, or in summer. They are also
used to a good purpose to conceal unsightly objects near the
dwelling, or to form fences for boundary lines ; and in some
cases they may be planted to a good purpose as single objects
on grass plats or lawns ; but in this case, care should be taken
not to over-do the thing by having too many, which gives a
heavy appearance^ where a lively contrast is required. The
taller kinds are also admirably adapted to forming clumps on
lawns, or extensive grass plats, which give an excellent effect
in the winter, besides being in harmony with good taste.
Culture. — Most kinds of evergreens are readily propagated
by seed, which may be sown on a rich, moist piece of ground
* For a general treatise on the Propagation and Culture of Evergreens,
I refer the reader to an article in a Manual on Live Fences and Ornamen-
tal Plantations, which will form a good appendage to this book.
68 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
early in the spring. The spot selected for this purpose
should be partially shaded from the mid-day sun, which often
scalds the young plants in the summer months. The ground
may be prepared in the usual way for sowing seed, and the
seed may be sown in shallow drills twelve inches apart. The
young plants will require to be kept in good order during the
summer, and should be watered in dry weather, in order to
keep them in a growing state. In the following spring, the
seedling plants may be transplanted on a well prepared piece
of ground in rows eighteen inches apart, and six inches in the
rows, where they may remain until their final planting into
the place assigned for them.
Planting of evergreens requires to be carefully done, in
order to succeed well ; indeed, there are more evergreens lost
by mismanagement in planting than any other class of plants.
In the first place, no evergreen ought to be out of the ground,
but a very short time, unless the roots are taken up with a
ball of earth, which should be wrapped round with old mats,
or cloth of some kind, in order to keep them compact toge-
ther. When the roots of any kind of evergreen are laid bare
for several days, they are almost certain to die, and from this
cause alone we see so many dead plants, which have been
purchased at the market, and elsewhere, that have been pro-
cured from dry locations, and the roots have been deprived
of earth or laid bare in taking from the ground. The best
time for planting is early in the fall, as at that time, if this
business is well done, the plants will make young fibrous
roots, and be established in the ground before winter. A
moist, rainy time should be chosen if possible, and the holes
should be dug before taking the plants from the ground, when
they may be taken immediately from the nursery and planted
in them, in order to succeed ; and by taking these precau-
tions, planting of evergreens is a very safe and easy business.
The distributing and planting will, of course, depend on cir-
cumstances before named. I shall, therefore, proceed to give
a list of the best varieties for this purpose.
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS.
ART. 7. — Descriptive List of Evergreen Shrubs.
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height. Time of flowering.
KALMIA.
AMERICAN LAUREL. (Flowering plants.) N. P.
latifolia
broad-leaved
Red 6 May, July.
angustifolia
narrow-leaved
Red 3 May, July.
RHODODENDRON
maximum
. ROSE BAT. {Flowering plants.)
Mountain laurel Pink 10 June, Aug.
ponticum
Pontic
Purple 6 May, June.
punctatum
dotted stalk
Pink 6 June, Aug.
BUXUS.
BOX-TREE.
arborescens
tree-box
White 6 May.
variegata
variegated
White 8 May.
JUNIPERUS.
JUNIPER.
suceica
Swedish
White 15 May.
virginiana
red-cedar
20 May.
prostrata
creeping
3 May.
sabina
savin-tree
5 May, June.
ARBOR VITJ3.
THUJA.
occidentalis
American
White 18 May.
orientalis
Chinese
White 18 May.
CHAPTER IV.
Culture of Florist Flowers.
ART. 1. — On the Culture of the Dahlia. .
THE botanical name Dahlia, was given to this genus of
plants in honor of Dahl, a Swedish botanist, by Cavanilles, a
Spanish botanist, and " is, (says Paxton,) a native of the high
sandy plains of Mexico, where it was first discovered by that
eminent and indefatigable botanist, Humboldt, five thousand
feet above the level of the sea, but in what year we have no
authentic accounts. There are three distinct species of this
genus : D. coccinea, D. Cervantesii, and D. variabilis; of
which the two former are not now cultivated, as they do not
readily sport into varieties, and are much less beautiful than
D. variabilis, from which latter all the innumerable varieties
at the present time known to our collections have emanated."
70 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
The cultivation of the Dahlia is generally encouraging to
the lovers of floriculture, and, when well understood, is very
simple in its operations ; adapting itself to more variations of
soil and location, in favorable seasons, than any other family
of plants that claims so general admiration. Nor does a dif-
ferent kind of soil act so materially on its well-being, as on
many kinds of plants, which are partial in their nature, and
will only flourish in their peculiar soil and location. But
should the season prove unpropitious, the most unremitting
and scientific exertions of the cultivator cannot counteract its
effect on the flowering ; although, in some cases, good culture
will greatly assist the process. The most unpropitious sea-
son to the Dahlia, in this climate, is a long continuance of
drought in the months of July and August; for when this
occurs, the growth of the young shoots is impeded so that the
flower buds cannot unfold and develop ; but are impoverished
in their embryo state in the shoots, which are consequently
converted into a hard, woody substance, in order to bear the
extreme dry season. In this case, it is not until the cool
nights of the fall months that the Dahlia can make the proper
shoots for flowering ; and this often happens so late, that the
entire stalk is killed by the frost before flowering commences.
The most favorable locations in such seasons are on the bor-
ders of rivers, lakes, or large sheets of water, that afford a
humid atmosphere in the mornings and evenings of hot sultry
weather ; for there is no plant of the flower garden that is
more benefited by a humid atmospheric air than the Dahlia.
So far as my experience has been in regard to location, I
have found that a free exposure is the best; for when the
Dahlia is grown in a confined, shady situation, the plant is
generally drawn slender, and the flowers produced are thin
of petals, and do not possess the bright, vivid color, as when
fully exposed. But care must be taken to plant the Dahlia
where it is sheltered from the north and north-west winds, by
which the plants, when in a growing state, are often blown
down and injured,
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 7l
Propagation. — There are various methods of increasing
the Dahlia, as by seed, cuttings, dividing the roots, and by
grafting. To obtain new varieties, florists have recourse to
the saving of seed from their best varieties, approaching the
nearest qualifications to such varieties as those which it is
their object to raise for a new variety, having something dif-
ferent in color or variety from those already in being ; those
kinds are then denominated seedlings, or new Dahlias, and
are named by the person who first produces them, as, for in-
stance, Sayers' General Harrison, Young's alba purpurea,
Brown's Bridesmaid, &c.
Seedlings. — The method of raising seedling Dahlias, is
simply to sow the seed, in the same manner as recommended
for any other plants, and planting out the young plants into a
bed for flowering in the fall, in the same way as recom-
mended for other perennial plants. When those have flow-
ered, the cultivator generally selects the best kinds, to save
for another trial, and the useless single varieties, of which
there are generally many, are discarded without any more
care or culture.
Cuttings. — When choice varieties are desired to be abun-
dantly increased, they are often propagated by cuttings, by
planting the stool, or entire roots, into large pots, or into a
hot-bed, early in the spring. When they have made shoots
three or four inches in length, they are to be taken off at a
joint, and put into small pots singly; or the cuttings may be
put into large pots, in the same manner as directed for Ge-
raniums, or other cuttings belonging to the green-house;
(which see, under the head of " Striking cuttings of Green-
house Plants.") When the plants are well rooted, they may
be shifted into larger pots and planted out, in the same man-
ner as directed for other roots, at the proper season.
Dividing the roots may be effected in the spring, so soon
as it is a proper time for planting out. The method is simply
to divide the crown, in such a manner as directed under the
head of propagating " Tuberous
72 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Grafting. — The choice kinds may be increased by graft-
ing on the tubers of the common varieties ; by taking the
tubers of the latter, cutting them square on the top, making a
slit down the centre, and inserting a shoot of the kind to be
increased, which should be cut into the form of a wedge ;
which see, under the head of " Propagating Green-house
Plants by Grafting." When grafted, the roots may be inserted
into pots, and treated in the same manner as recommended
for cuttings.
Planting out. — The time of planting out the Dahlia for
final flowering, must depend on the season and the different
parts of the Union in which it is to be grown. The best
direction I can give is, not to attempt it until the frosts are all
over, and the weather is sufficiently warm to insure its free
rooting into the earth, which should be previously dug and
well pulverized; from the 10th of May to the latter end of
the month will be a good time for most parts of eastern and
western states, whilst March or April will probably answer
better in the southern states. The planting may be performed
by making holes sufficiently large to receive the plants with-
out breaking the balls of earth about them. The plants may
then be carefully turned out of the pots, with their balls en-
tire, and some fine earth carefully placed around them, when
a little water may be given to settle the earth to the roots,
and the work is done. When the roots are to be divided, the
tubers may be planted simply as any other roots, at the pro-
per time.
General Culture and Training. — The principal culture
required for the Dahlia, is to keep the earth about the roots,
in a clean mellow state ; the surface of the earth should be
often hoed and raked, which gives an air of neatness, and is
beneficial to the growth of the plants, by attracting the dew
and moist atmospheric air in hot weather. There are many
modes adopted for training the Dahlia, but they all tend to the
same result, viz. to secure the plants from being broken down
by high winds, and to place the branches in such a position
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 73
that the flowers show to a good advantage. The most general
mode of training, is to place a strong stake of red cedar, four
or five feet in length, near the plant, and train one shoot to it
by tieing it with bass matting, or other string, as it progresses
in growth. In doing this, the string must not be tied too
tightly round the stalk, which often wounds, and sometimes
cuts it asunder, when it is exposed to the violence of the
wind. To this may be added, that of training against a flat
trellis, fences, &c., which are all to the same purpose.
Fall management. — The principal course to be pursued
in the fall management of the Dahlia, is in keeping the ground
clean, pruning and tieing up the branches, and thinning out
those which are superabundant ones. So soon as the frost is
expected, three or four inches of earth should be put around
the roots of the plants, to protect them from being frozen, as
is often the case at the early part of the season, when ne-
glected. Many persons take up the roots of Dahlias previous
to the early frosts, which is evidently an error, because the
roots being taken from the ground in a state of luxuriant
growth, and when they are not matured by the return of sap,
consequently shrivel up, owing to their being too green ; but
when left in the ground after the stalk is cut down by the
frost, the small fibres extract nutriment from the ground, and
feed and plump the tubers into a mature state.
Taking up the roots. — When there is apprehension of
severe frost, the roots may be taken from the ground and
dried in the sun, when they are to be taken into winter
quarters.
There are many methods of preserving the roots of
Dahlias through the winter ; the one most generally adopted
is the drying the roots when taken from the ground, and
placing them under the stage of a green-house. In this situ-
ation, they are looked over at different times in the winter,
and divested of any decaying parts, as the rot of the stalks, or
any part of the tubers that are beginning to decay, should be
immediately cut off with a sharp knife, and the wounds dried,
7 G
74 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
that it may not begin to rot and communicate disease in a
manner to destroy the whole. Another method is to preserve
the roots, after their being dried, in boxes of dry sand, or
placing them in a cellar or other room, where they are secure
from the frost. The roots of Dahlias should be wintered in
a situation where they are not too warm, cold, or moist.
When kept too warm, the eyes are liable to start into growth
at an early, unnatural season, when the sun and air cannot
have effect to mature the young shoots, in a healthy vigorous
manner ; if kept in a situation where the roots are frozen, it
is certain they will be lost; if too wet, it is probable they will
be rotted ; and if too dry, the tubers will shrivel up. A
moderate heat, from 35° to 45°, in a situation where the sur-
rounding air is not too moist, or dry, is the most favorable
place for preserving the roots of the Dahlia during the winter.
ART. 2. — Descriptive List of Double Dahlias.
The plants described in the subjoined list, were selected in
the flowering season from the best collections of the present
year ; and are kinds which produce fine flowers of their color
and free bloomers. The list is more limited than might be
expected, but it will be seen that the number of varieties will
be sufficient for small collections. To the connoisseur, it
would be an arduous task to point out the many new varieties
that are yearly introduced, and which can only be designated
by referring to numerous catalogues : the list here presented
has, therefore, been chosen from the best known varieties,
adapted to the purpose of private collections. I have omitted
the time of flowering, which will entirely depend on circum-
stances. Those designated thus * are old varieties, retained
as free bloomers, and are adapted to small gardens.
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 75
Name. General Character. Height.
WHITE.
Antagonist (Bruges') pure white, beautiful flower 5 ft.
*Miss Percival (Schmitz') clear white, free bloomer 4
Alba purpurea ( Young's} white, edged with purple 5
Queen of Summer (Holmes') cream white, tipped with purple 5
White Defiance (Schmitz') clear white, fine flower 4
Cheltenham Queen (Hodge's') fine clear white, good flower 5
TELLOW.
Sulphurea Elegans (Jones') light yellow, free bloomer 5
Unique (Ansell's) yellow, tipped with red 5
Argo ( Widnall's) fine yellow 4
Prince of Wales (Dodd's) fine yellow 5
* Bowman's Premier yellow, free bloomer 4
Victor ( Widnall's) bright primrose, edged with pink 5
PARTI-COLORED.
*Mrs. Rushton (Buist) white, tipped with rose 5
Lady St. Maur (Brown's) white, tipped with violet purple 4
*Striata Formosissima (Bates') blush carnation, striped 6
*Lady Oath. Jermyn (Girling's) white, striped with scarlet 6
Bridesmaid (Brown's) white, edged with lavender 5
Madame Chauviere ( Girling's) light crimson, tipped with clear white
Rival (Bannard's) fine crimson, free bloomer 4
Dowager Lady Cooper delicate pink, fine form 5
Eximia (Girling's) rose, superior form and habit 4
Grace Darling (Dodd's) rosy salmon, fine large flower 5
LILAC.
* Queen of Beauties (Garth's) fine cupped flower, free bloomer 5
Marshal Soult lilac and red, very fine flower 5
Lilac Perfection fine lilac, free bloomer 5
PURPLE.
Defiance (Hzrw3od!s) fine purple, free bloomer 5
* Pickwick (Cormadi's) fine purple, compact flower 5
Oakley's Surprise ruby pur., beaut, tipped with white 4
Admiral Stopford (Trendfield's) very dark, first class flower 5
Sir R. Sale (Smith's) crimson purple, cupped, free bloomer
Quilled Perfection (Brown's) shaded claret, free bloomer
ROSE, CRIMSON*, AND LILAC.
Mrs. Shelly (MitcheVs) dark rose, shaded with lilac 4
Hero of Stonehenge ( Whale's) crimson, beautifully cupped 5
* Rienzie ( Widnall's) crimson, shaded with lilac 4
*Ne Plus Ultra ( WidnaWs) fine crimson and purple 4
Madonna (Stand ford" s) rosy lilac, free bloomer 4
Perpetual Grand (Brown's) bright crimson 5
Rose Superior ( Girling's) fine deep pink, beautiful flower 6
Sir R. Sale (Smith's) • crimson purple, cupped fine flower 5
*York and Lancaster (.Saunders') light rose shaded, free bloomer 5
SCARLET.
* Countess of Liverpool fine scarlet, free bloomer 7
* General Harrison (Sayers') fine scarlet, shaded with crimson 7
Hero of the Thames fine scarlet, good show flower 6
Vivid (Thompson's) brilliant scarlet 5
76 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
AKT. 3.— Hardy Bulbous Rooted Plants.
Bulbous rooted plants belong to a very extensive class of
hardy flowers, and are highly deserving a more extensive and
general cultivation than they receive; they are certainly the
prettiest ornaments of the flower garden in the early part of
the spring, when few other plants are in flower. Indeed, the
Snowdrop is the first harbinger of spring in the flower gar-
den, and is finely described by Mrs. Barbauld :
" As Nature's breath, by some transforming power,
Had changed an icicle into a flower ;
Its name and hue the scentless plant retains,
And winter lingers in its icy veins."
«' It begins often to grow beneath the snow, at a tempera-
ture scarcely removed from the freezing point, and flourishes
alone," says Nuttall, " while all other plants lie dormant."
The Snowdrop is succeeded by the pretty genus of plants,
the Crocus, of which there are various colors, of yellow,
white, and blue, and is particularly adapted to the facings of
flower beds and borders. These are succeeded by the Daf-
fodil, Polyanthus, Narcissus, Jonquils, Hyacinth and Tulips ;
and lastly, that noble class of flowers, the Lilies, of which the
White Lily is one of the most splendid specimens of the
flower garden, presenting at one time a flower possessing a
delicate white color and exquisite fragrance.
Culture of bulbous roots. — The culture of bulbous rooted
plants, is simply to plant the bulbs, such as Tulips, Hya-
cinths, and others, about the latter end of October, in the
vacant places of borders. The best method that I am ac-
quainted with, is to plant the roots in small clusters of six or
eight together, four inches apart, by making a hole two or
three inches deep, into which insert the bulb about an inch
under the earth's surface ; and if a little sand is put into the
hole, it will be of utility to the bulb, as it will keep it from rot-
ting. This manner of planting may be applied to Hyacinths,
Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus, and Snowdrops, and all hardy
bulbs. When the leaves of bulbs decay after flowering, they
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 77
should be taken from the ground, and moderately dried in the
sun, and put into boxes with sand until autumn planting,
when the young or side bulbs are to be taken from the pa-
rent, as directed under " Increase of bulbous rooted plants,"
and planted separately from the flowering bulbs.
In places where tulips are planted in large collections, beds
are purposely prepared for them by taking out the soil of the
bad, which is generally made four feet wide, with an alley
two or three feet wide around it. The compost used is about
two-thirds good mellow loam, which should be prepared
twelve months previous to using it ; with it should be mixed
one-third good rotten cow or horse manure, and a portion of
good, coarse, sharp sand. This being prepared, is put into
the bed, and the bulbs are planted, as before directed, in rows,
from six to eight inches apart, each way of the bed. In this
method of culture, it is customary to use an awning in the time
of flowering, to protect the flowers from the influence of the
sun, which spoils their colors and prevents their being in
bloom any length of time ; the management is in every other
way the same as before stated.
Hyacinths are also often planted in separate beds, when
precisely the same method is followed, with the exception,
that they require a lighter and richer compost than the tulip.
The varieties of bulbous roots are so numerous, that it
would be impossible for me here to give any definitive list of
them. I have therefore stated their different divisions, or
classes, leaving the cultivator to choose his collection as taste
may dictate, which can be always done by applying to the
different seedsmen in the Union, who generally have good
collections in the planting season, in the fall, for sale. The
divisions, or classes, are as follows : —
Tulips are divided into several different varieties, namely,
1. Poses, with white grounds, with rose or cherry color
flame, or feather.
2. JByblomens, white grounds, with violet or purple flame,
or feather.
78 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
3. Bizards, yellow grounds, with chocolate, dark brown,
and nearly black flame or feather.
They are denominated flamed Roses, Byblomens, Bizards,
when the stripes of color descend boldly from the top edges
of the petals two-thirds of the way down the middle toward
the bottom ; and are called feathered Roses, Byblomens, or
Bizards, when the coloring is finely pencilled round the mar-
gin of the petals ; either of white or yellow.
To these may be added, Early Tulips, of various colors,
on white and yellow grounds, of which the Due Van T/wl
is a prominent variety.
Full or Double Tulips, are of various colors.
Parrot Tulips, with fringed edges of brilliant crimson and
yellow, with shades of bright green.
Hyacinths, like Tulips, are divided into several classes of
flowers, which are known under several names, some of
which refer to their color, as Gold of Ophir, Nose JBoquet,
&c. Their principal divisions are —
Double Hyacinths — Red and rose colored ; Blue, of vari-
ous shades ; White, with red and purple eye ; Pure white ;
Double yellow, with various eyes ; White, with a yellow eye.
Single Hyacinths — Blue, White, Yellow, Red, and Rosy
colored.
Various — Blue grape ; Pur. grape ; Feathered, of varieties.
Crocus — Cloth of gold; Blue, White, Purple, and Scotch,
of varieties.
Fritillarias — Persian curious; Meleagris checkered.
Polyanthus Narcissus — Grand Monarque ; Double Ro-
man, sweet scented; Sultan, White and Yellow ; and various
double varieties.
Single Narcissits and Jonquils — Hoop Petticoat ; Poet,
with crimson nectary, and various.
Lilies — White, Orange, Lilinm Superbum, Silver, Striped,
Double white, Yellow pompone.
Turks1 Cap Lilies — Different varieties.
Crown Imperials — Yellow, Red, Orange, &c.
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 79
ART. 4. — The Carnation and Picotee.
The Carnation requires precisely the same culture as the
Picotee ; I shall therefore retain them under the same head ;
and with these the Pink also might be classed, with a very
little variation of culture, in this climate.
This delightful family of plants, of which Dianthus is the
generic name, (from Dios, divine, and anthos, flowery fra-
grance,) is highly deserving a more general cultivation ; for it
is certain that the Carnation and Pink are among the prettiest
ornaments of the flower garden of the season, and, being na-
tives of Britain, require only a little protection during winter,
to have them in the greatest perfection.
Before I proceed with directions for the culture of these
plants, it will be proper to give a definition of their different
varieties and characteristics, as acknowledged by florists, and
in doing this, I cannot do better than copy an excellent article
on the subject from the " Floricultural Cabinet," written by
Mr. John Frederic. He says —
" This flower is divided into several classes, and of late
years these have been increased, indicated by the color of the
flowers. There are now shown, at different exhibitions in
the country — Scarlet Bizarres, each petal being striped with
two colors, scarlet and a dark maroon, on a white ground,
varying in intensity in different sorts.
" Crimson Bizarres ; the stripes also consisting of two
colors, but approaching in their tint more to a rose-color
and purple. In this class, there is a subdivision, styled
pink and purple, which are lighter and more lively in their
shades.
" There are yet three other classes, consisting of Flakes.
Their colors are scarlet, rose, or pink, and purple of various
hues; some being many shades darker than others in each of
the divisions. — After the flakes, come the varieties called
Picotees or Carnations, with either spotted or striped margins
to their petals. Of these there is a very great variety, and
they may be classed under the heads of scarlet, red, rose-
80 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
colored, and purple. Formerly, they were only shown in
two classes, red and purple, without any reference to the
extent of the coloring; but now each class is subdivided into
heavy-edged, with the color thickly laid on round the margin
of the leaf, and are called in Lancashire Striped Picotees ;
and feathered, or light-edged, where the color touches the leaf
in an unbroken delicate line."
The Carnation, like the Dahlia, and other florist flowers, is
increased by seed, to obtain new varieties, which are named
by those who produce them. The seed may be sown in pots,
or in the open ground, early in the spring; and the young
plants may-be potted and managed the same as recommended
for general culture. They will flower the second year, when
the grower may see the qualities of his new varieties. The
general culture I recommend, is to propagate the Carnation
by layers, in August or September, immediately after they
have done flowering ; and when the plants are well rooted,
which will be in four weeks, they are to be put into moderate
sized pots, in a compost of two-thirds loam and a portion of
sand and rotten leaf mould: when this is done, they may be
placed where they are not too much shaded, nor receive too
much influence from the sun. The plants are to remain in
this situation until the first frost appears, when they are to be
placed in a cold frame, well lined on the outside with stable
manure. In this situation during the winter they must often
be examined, and divested of any dead leaves or filth they
may collect, and air admitted every opportunity in fine wea-
ther. When the winter is over, the plants may be plunged
into the proper place for flowering, which should be an
exposure, where the sun has not full influence over them :
they may again be layered at the proper time, and the same
culture continued every year.
One great point in the culture of this plant is, that it be not
over-watered in the winter, which, when the severe change
comes and freezes it, the sap vessels often burst, and if it does
not cause the leaves to perish, the plant is much injured and
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 81
weakened by it. The Carnation should be kept in winter in
a moderate, dry, airy state, and never be over-watered.
In many cases the Carnation is taken into the green-house
and flowered in the spring among other plants to a very good
purpose. After flowering, it is then turned out into the bor-
ders, as before directed.
It is needless for me to give any directions on tieing up the
branches, watering the plants in a flowering state, &c., be-
cause all this course of culture comes under that general me-
thod of cultivation, which every lover of flowers thoroughly
understands.
AHT. 5.— The Pink.
The Garden Pink is one of the neatest flowers of its sea-
son, and is much admired for its fragrance, especially the
variety known as the Clove Pink, which has the fragrance
of the clove.
There are, besides this, the Double Pheasant-eyed Pink,
too rarely seen in the flower garden, where it should always
find a place, as it is certainly^deserving of general culture,
particularly as it is so easily and readily increased, by parting
the roots, in September; and by doing this each plant will
make twenty. For the operation, a moist time should be
chosen, when every plant will strike root freely. Of this
class there is a very pretty dwarf neat variety, well adapted
for edging, particularly for the parterre, or small city garden.
The Common Garden Pink, which is often increased by
sowing the seed, is well worth cultivating, as it generally
flowers abundantly the second year, and may be termed bien-
nial, although it is often prolonged for several years, when
good varieties are obtained from seed, by cuttings, layers, and
dividing the roots.
The Carnation Pink is also now much cultivated, and is a
desirable variety, and forms a connecting link between the
common Garden Pink and the Carnation. It is readily
grown from seed, and produces flowers the second season.
82 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
I have often seen very fine specimens of flowers produced
from seed of this variety ; and in some cases having the de-
lightful fragrance of the clove, in connection with a good
double flower.
The Prize Pink. — The one recognized as a florist flower,
is rarely seen in cultivation in this country; nor is it likely
ever to become a favorite to the general cultivator, owing to
its habit being too tender to withstand our dry summers and
severe winters. This is owing to the high state of perfection
the plants are brought to by amateurs ; and, like the Carna-
tion, Tulip and all prize florist flowers, they have a tendency
to return to their primitive state, sooner or later, unless they
have every attention paid to them, as a florist flower. But
when the Pink is kept in a state of perfection by the amateur
florist, there is nothing I am acquainted with so perfectly in
unison with a highly cultivated flower garden.
There is not a flower that I am acquainted with, of so
domestic a nature as the Pink. It should be planted near the
front, or the windows, of the dwelling ; for its agreeable fra-
grance, and neat habit, are always inviting, and I earnestly
hope so pretty a flower will find many admirers in every part
of the Union.
The Garden Pink flourishes in a loamy soil, with a portion
of well rotted manure, that from the cow-yard is the best ; and
the choice tender kinds should be partially protected in the
winter. The method of propagating the choice kinds of
Pinks is by pipeings, and by layers.
The pipeings are the young shoots or grass of the plants,
which are taken from the plants in the month of August or
September, by taking them between the finger and thumb,
and gently pulling them out of the socket of the shoot, of
the length of three or four joints. The top of them is then
partially cut off, level, with a sharp knife, and they are
every way like a cutting, only they need not be cut at a
joint, or cut level at the bottom with a knife, but are simply
pulled out of the pipe of the stalk, and hence the name pipe-
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 83
{rig. A compost of one-third mellow loam, one-third rotten
leaf mould, and one-third river sand, is to be prepared and
put into a shady situation, and the pipeings are to be inserted
therein, an inch or two apart, and they are then covered with
a hand or bell glass, and regularly attended to as any other
cuttings, by shading from the sun, cleaning the glass, &c.
When rooted, which will be in a few weeks, they may be
planted into their final place of flowering.
The method of layering is precisely the same as for any
other plant, and the time best for the business is the middle
of August or in the beginning of September. The method is
to clear out the plant from dead leaves, or any rubbish that
might have been collected. The top of the leaves of the
shoots intended to be layered are then cut even, and the earth
round the plant should be broken up with a trowel, and the
shoots knecked and layered with pegs, in the same manner
as before stated. When well rooted, the young plants may
be planted in their final place for flowering. The Carnation
and Picotee may be treated in precisely the same manner.
Anx. 6. — The Polyanthus and Auricula.
The Polyanthus and Auricula, with the Primrose, Cow-
slip, and all their intermediate varieties, may be considered
under the head of Primulacese.
This pretty family of plants has more claim on our atten-
tion to their culture than any other class of flowers, so little
regarded. The Primula vulgaris, or common Primrose of
Great Britain, is one of the first harbingers of spring, and is
seen almost every where, peeping under the sunny banks, to
greet the young spring, and bid adieu to the last relics of old
hoary winter.
In China, Switzerland, and other parts of the northern
hemisphere, the Primula is found inhabiting the mountains
and meadows ; and the Auricula is found, in its primitive
state, growing on the base of the Alpine mountains, where
the sun seldom or never shines ; and hence we mav infer
84 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
that this variety requires shade, to grow it to perfection, in a
cultivated state.
The Polyanthus — which is an improved variety of the
English Primrose, and has been brought to that state of per-
fection as to render it a florist flower, — differs from the Pri-
mula by forming a truss, or number of flowers, on one stem,
and hence the name Polyanthus. Florists decide on the per-
fection of this flower, by its having a strong and uniform stem,
which ought to be elastic and erect, showing the truss of
flowers well above the leaves of the plants. The footstalk
should be stiff, and of a proportionate size to the pips or
flowers, which should be five or more in number, that the
truss be close and compact. The pipe, tube, or inner part of
the petal, should rise above the impalement, be short, and
finish fluted in the eye; the antherse should cover the neck
of the tube ; this is the rose eye ; and what florists call a
thrum eye. When the style shows its stigma in the tube,
above the antherse, resembling a pin's head, it is then called
SL pin eye, and the flower is rejected.
The tube should be round, of a bright yellow color, well
filled with anthers, bold and distinct. The eye should be
round, of a bright clear yellow, and distinct from the ground
or body color. The ground, or body color, should be of a
dark rich color, resembling velvet, and clear from spot or
blemish. The pips should be large, and of rich lively colors,
nearly all of one size, lie quite flat in the centre, and be as
free as possible from ridges or fluting, and as round as pos-
sible, to preserve their peculiar beautiful form, which is
circular, or wheel-shaped, excepting those small indentations
between each division of the limb, which divides it into five or
six heart-shaped segments. The edging, or lacing, should be
of a bright yellow, of the same color as the eye, and go per-
fectly round each petal, also, down the centre of each division
of the limb to the eye ; it should also be of an equal breadth
on each petal.
Culture. — The Polyanthus and Auricula require the same
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 85
treatment in culture, and are increased by seed, which should
be sown in pots or boxes, of light, fine earth, in the spring.
The green-house, or frame, is the best place for this business,
but the open ground will answer ; care should be taken to
keep the earth moderately moist, or the seed will not vege-
tate freely* The young plants should be kept in a shady
situation through the summer, as they will not thrive when
fully exposed to the sun. In the fall, the plants may be
potted singly into four or five inch pots, in a compost of half
well prepared mellow loam, and the remainder leaf mould
and good sharp river sand. The old plants may be divided
by their roots, in August or September, and potted in the
same kind of compost.
When the winter begins to close, the Polyanthus and Auri-
cula may be protected in " Garden-frames," as directed under
that head ; or they may be introduced into the front stage of
the green-house, where they generally flower in fine perfec-
tion. Early in the spring, the plants should be plunged out
of their pots in a northern aspect, where they are not too
much shaded, and in the fall they may be again repotted, as
before directed.
It would be useless for me to give a list of the numerous
varieties of the Polyanthus and Auricula, as described in the
English catalogues. I shall, therefore, merely point out the
different divisions of the family, as follows :—
Polyanthus — Single and Double varieties.
English Primrose — Single: Yellow, Purple, and Lilac.
Double: White, Yellow, Purple, and Lilac.
Cowslip — Yellow, and Purple.
Oxlip — Yellow, and Purple.
Auriculas — Large Purple, with dark centre ; Purple, with
yellow centre; Fine Purple, crimson border and centre;
Pure Yellow.
H
86 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 7. — On the Culture of the Pansy, or Heartsease.
The Pansy having become so favorite a plant in the flower
garden, I shall devote a small space to remarks on its culture.
To obtain new varieties, the same process as with other
flowers must be resorted to, namely, selecting out the best
kinds, and impregnating one with the other, in order to mix
the colors, and obtain those which are considered by florists
the best marked flowers ; which are those with a clear, dark
ground, and well shaped petals, that are regularly margined
or laced, either with white or yellow : but white is the most
delicate, and is considered the best.
Having procured the seed, it may be sown immediately, or
saved until spring, when it may be sown either in a pot of
light, rich earth, or in a frame. As soon the plants are grown
to a moderate size, they are to be pricked out, either into
beds or borders, of rich earth, of a moist, loamy nature ; in
many cases, they are planted as a bordering for flower bor-
ders ; and when they are of a good width, they have a very
pretty effect in the flowering season. But the more proper
way is to plant them in four-feet beds, and if a little shaded
from the noon-day sun the better.
The Pansy is, in most cases, hardy ; however, if the
choice and tender kinds are a little protected in the winter,
they will flower much better in the spring following. The
general manner of planting the Pansy, is to prepare a piece
of ground in the usual way for planting, and divide it into four-
feet beds, with eighteen-inch alleys, and plant the seedlings
across the beds, about a foot apart each way ; and they are to
be in every way treated as other flowers. When the plants
are fully grown, or fit for transplanting, they may be mixed
with other flowers in the borders for flowering, and a little
shaded from the mid-day sun, which generally runs the deli-
cate colors off them.
The choice kinds may be potted and protected in frames
during winter, or they may be planted in the soil in frames,
and covered ; and, indeed, the more choice kinds may be with
CULTURE OF FLORIST FLOWERS. 87
every propriety placed in the green-house, to flower early,
where they will have a pretty appearance.
The choice varieties may be propagated by cuttings, which
should be taken off early in the spring, or in September, and
treated the same as any other cuttings, by placing them in a
shady situation, and well attending them, when they will
generally strike root freely.
ART. 8. — The Chrysanthemum.
It is much to be regretted that the Chrysanthemum is not
more generally cultivated, particularly when it is in season
when there are but few other plants in flower. This, I pre-
sume, may be more attributed to but few varieties being
generally known, and those of a very inferior quality, than to
any other cause. In hopes to make the subject better known,
I shall treat separately on the culture, and add a Descriptive
List of some of the best known varieties at the present period.
The Chrysanthemum is a native of China, and may be
considered a hardy perennial; but, although it lives through
the winter unprotected, the plants do not bloom in perfection
unless they are protected from the early frost, either in a
frame, green-house, or room. There are various methods of
cultivating the Chrysanthemum, as by cuttings, layers, and
dividing the roots. The common mode of culture is to plant
out the roots in the spring in the flower borders, and allow
them to grow without any other culture than is given to plants
in common : these plants are taken up about the first week in
September, and put into pots or boxes, to suit their size, and
are allowed to flower, with the ordinary care given to plants.
The most approved method by florists, is to increase the
plants by cuttings, which are taken from the plants in the
ground, when they are grown eight or ten inches. The me-
thod is to take off the cuttings at two or three joints and pot
them, in the same manner as recommended for the propaga-
tion of geraniums ; when the cuttings are well rooted, they
may be potted into three inch pots of compost, the same as
8
88 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
recommended for green-house plants, and put into a situation
where they are partly shaded from the mid-day sun, which
often scalds the leaves, and makes the plants have a very bare
appearance. When the plants are well rooted, they may
then be shifted into four or rive inch pots, with the same
compost as before recommended, with the addition of a por-
tion of well rotted leaf mould, or manure, and a portion of
sand. They may now be placed in a free exposure, and
have a bountiful supply of water, to grow them in a healthy
state. In order to have Chrysanthemums form nice bushy
heads, they should be stopped, when about six inches high,
by nipping out the heart of the plants. In this place they
may be allowed to remain until taken into the room, or green-
house, for flowering, which should be done before the first
frost appears, which always injures and disfigures the plants.
There is one thing necessary to be considered in the culti-
vation of the Chrysanthemum, namely, the manner of win-
tering the roots, which should be so managed, that they are
kept in a dry, healthy state, and are not growing freely, as it
should always be the object of the cultivator to keep the
young shoots from growing, if possible, during the winter.
Descriptive List of Chrysanthemums.
Adventure ; yellow. Paper White ; fine white flake.
Aitons ; yellow. Peerless Primrose. [low, fine.
Bicolor ; white, with yellow centre. Park's Small Yellow ; clustered, yel-
Changeable White. Purpurea Superba ; superb purple.
Compactum ; small white. Quilled Purple ; fine flower.
Curled Lilac; deep lilac, curled petals. Quilled Aster flowered.
Defiance (Buisf) ; lemon yellow. Queen; delicate rose.
Fletcher; rich crimson. Sanguineum; deep crimson.
Golden Lotus; fine yellow;. Solon; large superb yellow.
Grand Napoleon ; fine purple. Starry Purple ; fine purple.
Georgiana ; pink, expanded flower. Striatum ; pink and buff".
Indian White ; pretty small white. Superb White ; fine flower.
Invincible ; large white. Tasselled Lilac ; fine lilac.
King ; large pale rose. Tasselled White ; showy flower.
Lilac Perfection ; fine lilac. Triumphant ; buff and pink.
Lucidum ; pure white. Victory ; rosy blush.
Mirabile ; pink and buff. Virginia ; white, perfect flower.
Ne plus ultra ; pure white. Wheelerii ; deep rose.
Perfection ; lilac. William Penn ; creamy white.
CHAPTER V.
On the Monthly Calendar.
ART. 1.— Object of the Monthly Calendar.
Ix giving a monthly calendar, the principal object is to take
a cursory review of the management of the flower garden, at
the different seasons, which could not be, in any other way,
done in so condensed a form, corresponding with the tenor of
this book, which is, as much as possible to treat on every
thing separately. The manner of propagating most kinds of
the plants adapted to the flower garden, has been separately
treated on in Part I ; and it now remains to speak of their
general culture, as the seasons pass on from spring to sum-
mer, autumn, and winter. In commencing this subject, I
shall begin with the year ; for, although in the month of Ja-
nuary nearly all horticultural operations are suspended, it is
customary to allot that month a space in the calendar.
Before I proceed with the directions for each month, it will
be proper to say, that the reader must, in many instances,
judge for himself of the proper time of doing any particular
business, as a little fore-thought will at once convince any
person that practical observation is one of the best guides to
perfection in the management of the flower garden. The
criterion here laid down is supposed to answer for the eastern
states, and the vicinity of Cincinnati. In the more southern
parts of the Union, of course, every thing relative to practice
and management will be in accordance with the season, which
will perhaps be a month earlier to operate than the rule here
laid relative to time. This may be easily remedied by taking
such things into consideration, and managing accordingly;
and taking February for January, March for February, and
so on, through the process of the monthly calendar.
89 H2
90 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 2. — January.
In this month, little can be done in the flower department,
except in the green-house, and taking care of plants in rooms,
which I shall notice in their separate places. However, if
the weather proves changeable, which is often the case, the
coverings of the plants are liable to be misplaced by the wind,
and other causes ; therefore it is proper to look over the gar-
den, to see that all is in due order, particularly if Carnations,
and such like, are covered.
Plants in frames, also, as the Carnation, Auricula, Poly-
anthus, and the like, may be looked over, and kept in order,
by taking away any dead leaves or filth that may be collected
in them; and if mice, rats, or other vermin, have made
any depredations, they should, if possible, be destroyed.
If the weather proves mild, which is sometimes the case in
this month, the glasses may be taken off in the middle of the
day, and closed at night ; care must be taken that they are
not left open through the night, and the plants frozen, which
is often the case. See Garden Frames.
ART. 3. — February.
In this month, like the preceding, little can be done to
advantage in the garden, except where any forest trees are
to be pruned, or cut down, which may be done to a good
purpose, and much forward the business of the flower
garden in the coming spring; the frames should be attended
to, as previously directed, and the garden should often be
looked over, to see that the covering, and the like, is in due
order.
In the south-western states, the business of the flower gar-
den will commence this month, and the rules laid down for
March will answer precisely the purpose, and the same
transfer may be carried through the seasons.
ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 91
ART. 4. — March.
This month, if mild, begins the principal business of the
flower garden. A hot-bed may be prepared, as before di-
rected, for sowing annual flower seeds ; biennials and peren-
nials, that are intended for early planting, may also be for-
warded by this method. The plants in frames may have
more air given them, and every opportunity should be taken
to forward them as much as possible for the planting out in
the ground. The uncovering of many plants may be seen to
near the close of the month, and all kinds of hardy shrubs
and plants may be pruned and tied, or nailed, in a proper
manner, either to fences, walls or trellises, to which they
are intended to be trained.
In the latter part of this month, all dead stalks may be
neatly cut from the plants, and cleared from the garden, and
the grass plat may be raked and divested of all the old dead
grass, and any thing that may prevent the young grass from
coming up in a regular manner ; any parts of the walks that
have been washed, either by rain or snow-water, should now
be repaired, and put into good order previous to the spring
dressing. The pruning of trees and shrubs may be per-
formed, by simply, in the first case, divesting them of all
dead wood, and thinning out all weak, superfluous branches,
and those which cross one another. In the act of pruning,
a few simple rules are to be regarded, viz. that all wounds or
amputations be made with sharp instruments, and left in a
clean, slanting manner, that the wet may not collect on and
rot the wound ; the next thing is, that the plants be regulated
in such a manner that the sun and air have free access to
every part of them ; and thirdly, that their natural form and
habit be as much as possible retained. In cases where plants
have grown into a straggling manner, they may be headed in,
to form a new head or crown. These remarks will be found
to answer a general purpose, in pruning plants to their natural
habit, if correctly attended to.
92 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 5. — April.
April is the busiest month in the flower garden. As soon
as the weather will admit, and the ground is dry, the pruning
and cleansing of the plants and the garden should be finished.
The borders and flower beds may now be dug, and the
box, or other edgings, mended or replanted, and every thing
must be done preparatory to transplanting perennials and
sowing annuals.
In digging borders or flower beds, care must be taken that
they are so dug as to lay rather the highest in the middle, by
which the appearance will have a more pleasing effect, and
the water will drain from them in a regular manner. It must
be recollected, that wherever water is allowed to lay long on
any plants, (except aquatics,] they are much injured thereby.
Previous to the borders being dug, the places required to be
planted, either with shrubs or herbaceous plants, may be
planted after the manner described under the heads of Plant-
ing and Descriptive Lists, where every information will be
found relative to their proper position, and the manner of
performing the work. When the borders are dug and
planted, the grass plat, if any, and walks must be repaired,
and put in proper order.
The seeds of hardy annuals and perennials may be sown,
and the layering of plants, dividing the roots, putting out cut-
tings, and the like, may be performed as directed under the
head of " Propagation."*
ART. 6.— May. .
Supposing the work to be done as directed, in April or the
beginning .of this month, the principal thing to be attended to
is to sow all kinds of annual, biennial, and perennial seeds, at
three sowings, this month : the hardy kinds at the beginning,
the half hardy at the middle, and the tender at the end of the
month.* In the beginning of the month, box edgings may be
* This business, in this place, particularly refers to the eastern states ;
in the south-western states it should be done in the preceding month.
ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 93
laid, and all kinds of edgings, as Moss-pink, Iris, Stone-crop,
and the like, may be neatly repaired, and every thing com-
pletely finished for the spring dressing. If the trees and
shrubs have not been pruned and trained, (which see, under
the proper head,) as directed in April, no time should be lost
in performing that work in the early part of this month.
In the middle, or latter part of the month, all kinds of
green-house plants may be plunged in the borders or flower
beds, as directed under their proper heads. The Dahlia,
Jacobean Lily, and all kinds of tender rooted plants, either
tuberous or fibrous, may also be planted the latter part of the
month.
Tender and hardy annual flowers may now be transplanted
from the frames ; the hardy at the beginning, and the tender
at the end of the month.
All kinds of flowers that are of slender growth should now
be supported by tieing them neatly to sticks, and every atten-
tion should be paid to the health of the plants and neatness
of the garden.
ART. 7. — June.
The principal business to be done in this month is hoeing
and keeping the flower beds in order, often mowing the grass
plat, and cleaning the walks ; indeed, every department should
at this time receive the most strict attention. And here let
me remind the reader, that one of the principal things to be
attended to in flower-gardening, is to remove all weeds in
their infant state, for at this stage they can be easily de-
stroyed ; but if allowed to grow and get strongly rooted in the
ground, they exhaust the soil, as well as have a bad appear-
ance. Hoeing, raking, and destroying weeds, are operations
PO simple and common as to render any directions on the sub-
ject superfluous; but its simplicity does not prevent it from
being a most important subject. To avoid irksome minute-
ness, I will merely remark, that the most strict attention
should be paid to keeping every part of the garden at all
94 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
times neat and cleanly ; and having once called attention to
this point, I may not recur to it hereafter.
Particular attention must be paid at this time to the tieing
up all the slender plants to stakes or sticks, as the Dahlia.
and plants of a rapid growth. For this purpose, neat sticks,
or stakes, should be prepared, of a size in proportion to the
height of the plant ; for the Dahlia, sticks of about six or
seven feet, planed off in a tapering manner, either round or
square, and painted green, answer a good purpose. In the
operation of tying up the Dahlia, care must be taken that the
plant is not tied too tightly, which is often the case, and the
consequence of which is, that the plant is nearly cut asunder,
and the first storm that comes blows it down. In tying up
plants care must also be taken that they are not too much
bundled together, which is not only unsightly to the eye, but
is often the cause of the centre part of the plant being in a
measure rotted, owing to the leaves being too much confined,
and not receiving the influence of the atmospheric air.
Attention must now, also, be paid to the training of vines,
as Honeysuckle, Clematis, and all such plants as are trained
to trellises and arbors ; which see, under the head of Hardy
Running Vines.
Annual flower seeds may now also be sown for late flow-
ering; and in moist weather any bare places in the borders
may be planted and filled up with annuals, to make every
part have a regular and sightly appearance.
ART. 8. — July.
Every favorable opportunity should be taken in this month
to keep down weeds as they appear, and to tie up any plants
that are of a slender habit. The Dahlias should be carefully
looked over, and tied to their stakes, to prevent them from
being broken down by rains or heavy storms. Every atten-
tion must now, also, be paid to annuals, by thinning out those
that are growing thickly together, which, in their infant state,
cause a weakness in their habitual constitution, and they
ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 95
rarely assume their wonted vigor in the flowering season ;
and the consequence is, that they never flower in perfection.
Any kind of bulbous roots, as Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses,
and the like, that are to be taken up and replanted in the
autumn, may be removed so soon as their leaves are ripe and
decaying: for the method of performing this work, I refer the
reader to page 76-7.
It will be proper here to observe, that there is an exception
to the rule of taking up bulbous rooted plants, in most kinds
of lilies, as the White Lily, Orange Lily, and the like. In-
deed, in many cases, they are much injured by being often
removed; the White Lily seldom flowers well, if at all, the
first year of its removal, and many other kinds flower but
feebly. The best method that I can recommend in the culture
of lilies, is to thin out the roots in such a manner, yearly,
that the large flowering bulbs are three or four inches apart :
the taking away the offsets and small bulbs in this manner,
gives those left to flower a chance to obtain the different nu-
triments and food in the grounds in which they are growing.
Care must be taken this month of any green-house plants,
whether plunged in the ground or otherwise, by watering
them moderately, so that the earth they are growing in may
be kept moderately moist. This is the most critical month
in the summer for many kinds of green-house plants, particu-
larly the Erica and Camellia, which are often so much
inj ured that they never recover, owing to the earth in the pots
being allowed to be dried to dust. The consequence is, that
the roots of the plants perish by drought, and the leaves turn
yellow and fall off. Insects, aleo, attack the plants, which,
being in a weakly state, by degrees dwindle and die. In all
kinds of tender annuals and herbaceous plants which are pe-
rishing for want of water, attention may be paid to the water-
ing at the roots moderately in the evening; but care must be
taken not to over- water at this season, which will be unna-
tural, and greatly injure them. Moderation must be the guide
in this process, as in all others of the same nature.
96 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 9. — August
Little is required to be done in this month, besides keeping
the flower beds and garden clean, tying up plants, cleaning
walks, &c., of which I have already spoken. If any bulbous
rooted plants, that are to be taken up, still remain in the
ground, their removal should no longer be deferred. The
inoculation to be done on Hoses, or any choice plants, should
be attended to near the end of the month, or as soon as the
plants are in a proper condition to be operated upon ; which
see, under the head of Inoculation, page 35. Any kinds of
annual or perennial plants that have done flowering, and are
encumbering their neighbors, may also be taken away or cut
down, and the garden should at this time go through a regular
hoeing, raking, and cleaning, which is very important at this
season, and when neglected is many times the cause of much
labor, by weeds over-growing and spoiling the autumnal flow-
ering plants.
AHT. 10. — September.
In the beginning of this month, all kinds of green-house
plants intended to be taken up and potted, either for the
green-house or rooms, should be attended to. For the man-
ner of performing the potting of plants, I refer the reader to
that chapter, "on the Management of Green-house Plants."
All kinds of annual and biennial flowers may now also be
potted, and placed in a situation where they can be partially
shaded, in order to encourage their rooting freely in the pots.
For a Descriptive List of the best kinds for this purpose, 1
refer the reader to articles 1 and 2 in the Appendix. Indeed,
any kind of plants intended to be taken into winter quarters,
should not be delayed after this time; they are rarely well
rooted and prepared for the sudden change.
There are but few things to be done in the flower garden,
that require more practical knowledge, and are less under-
stood, than the taking from the ground and preparing plants
for winter quarters. In this, I would wish to be understood
ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 9?
as referring to all kinds of annuals, biennials, and perennials.
In the first place, it is an act of violence on nature to remove
plants from the soil, when they are established and in a vi-
gorous growth, to a small pot of earth, perhaps of quite a
different compost from that in which they have been growing;
besides, they have in most cases their principal roots cut
asunder, which have extended several feet in search of a pro-
per nutriment; consequently, the natural channels that extract
food for the plant are severed from it, and its vigor is more
exhausted than nourished; the plant being thus enfeebled,
eventually loses a portion of its leaves, in proportion to the
loss of such members ; and this again weakens it, owing to its
losing, in a certain degree, its power of imbibing the moisture
of the atmospheric air. In this case, the plant has generally
to undergo a change in habit and growth, at a time when it is
least prepared for it, namely, before the approach of winter,
when it requires to be in full vigor, which can only be re-
gained by the most attentive and natural management
Taking the plants from the ground and potting them. —
If possible, an opportunity should be sought to take the plants
from the ground, or pot them, on a moist, humid day, after a
shower of rain. They should be taken carefully from the
ground, and their fibrous roots as much as possible retained.
Being taken from the ground, they should be immediately
potted, and well watered, and placed in a situation where
they are partially shaded, and have a free circulation of air:
it will be the better for them if they be placed under trees,
where the direct rays of the sun are withdrawn from them,
and a free circulation of air can act on them. In this situa-
tion, the plants must be regularly attended to, by keeping the
earth moderately moist, in order that they may root freely in
the new pots. All dead leaves should be taken from them as
they appear, being often very injurious to plants potted in
this way ; for the decaying leaves being in a state of putre-
faction, create an impure air, which is imbibed by the living
leaves, and sickens the plants.
9 I
98 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
When the plants are well rooted in the pots and begin to
recover their strength, they are to be gradually exposed to the
sun and their natural location, in order that they may recover
their natural habit, previous to their removal to winter
quarters.
In this month, the principal business in the flower garden
is keeping it clean from weeds, gathering all kinds of flower
seeds as they ripen, (which see, in the Appendix, Art. 3,)
protecting plants of slender habits, and training and tying
vines to trellises. This is the proper time to divide and pro-
pagate many kinds of hardy herbaceous plants where wanted,
and if any alterations or new arrangements are to be made in
the flower garden, they should be immediately attended to.
AHT. 11.— October.
The principal thing to be attended to in the flower garden
this month is, to give particular attention to the management
of the green-house plants that are not taken into the green-
house or rooms. Green-house plants should be protected at
night, after the first of the month, in most parts of the north-
ern states ; for the first frost, which is always to be expected
at this time, will much injure them if exposed, besides spoil-
ing their appearance. Any kinds of hardy bulbs, as Tulips,
Hyacinths, Lilies, and the like, may be planted, from the
middle to the end of the month, as directed under their pro-
per heads.
The Carnation, Polyanthus, Daisy, and any kind of half
hardy plants in pots, that are intended to be protected through
the winter in trames, should be placed in them and covered
on cold frosty nights.
Every attention must be paid to the Dahlia, and tender
rooted plants, that are liable to be injured by the early frost.
It is a good method to protect them, by laying some long
manure or litter about the roots, to guard them from being
injured by the first frost.
This month is also a favorable time for transplanting all
ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 99
kinds of evergreens ; hardy shrubs and herbaceous plants
may also be planted to advantage, especially in a dry loca-
tion; and, indeed, all kinds of fall planting is much better to
be done at this time than later in the fall, as the plants that
are at this time planted out are not so liable to be injured by
much wet settling about and rotting their roots, besides the
advantages of their making new spongioles, or tender roots,
which draw much nutriment to the plants, and prepare them
to grow vigorously in the spring.
ART. 12. — November.
Supposing the green-house plants to be housed, their man-
agement will be found under the proper head, of the green-
house department; but the half hardy plants in the frames
will require to be attended to, by giving air, covering on cold
nights, and the like, as recommended under the head of
" Garden Frames." Great attention must be paid to the
Dahlia, if not taken from the ground, that it be not frosted at
the root; indeed, it should always be the rule, even in mild
autumns, to take the roots from the ground the first of this
month; but if left after that time, a double covering should be
applied. Little will require to be done in the garden, except
to clear away any kind of dead leaves or decaying plants,
which appear to be a nuisance, and every thing may be pre-
pared for the winter.
All kinds of hardy bulbs that were not planted the latter
part of October, may be planted by the middle of this month,
and if any new plantations, either in the shrubbery or flower
garden, are to be made in the fall, they should not be omitted
any longer than the middle of the month.
Covering plants, and protecting shrubs. — About the 20th
of the month, or as soon as the winter begins to close, which
will vary from fifteen to fifty days in different parts of the
States, for which this work is intended to be adapted, will be
a proper time to protect all kinds of herbaceous plants, by
covering them on their crowns with long manure, or if leaves
100 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
can be obtained, they will answer a better purpose. Tender
kinds of shrubs, as the Double Hibiscus, Magnolia purpurea^
&c., may be protected, by tying up the branches in a neat
manner, and covering them over with straw, and tying it
neatly around them. — Which see, under the head of Covering
and Protecting Plants.
ART. 13. — December.
Little can be done in the garden this month, except it is a
very mild season, when the covering of plants, and the like,
may be done, as directed in November. For the manage-
ment of the Green-house and Frames, I refer the reader to the
articles under these heads.
CHAPTER VI.
On the Variations and Motions of Plants.
AKT. 1.— Variations of Plants.
IN order to diversify the subjects of the " Companion," I
have introduced several that are not altogether pertaining to
culture ; but which may be interesting to those who are de-
sirous of being made acquainted with the different qualities
and variations of plants, as their color, monstrous habits, mo-
tions, &c.
ART. 2. — Color of Plants and Flowers.
There is nothing that I am acquainted with in the vegetable
kingdom, that is more changeable and deserving of notice than
the coloring of plants ; which is different not only in flowers,
but also in leaves, roots, seeds, bark, and, indeed, in every
part of them. When the earth is clothed with vegetation in
VARIATIONS -AKD, WgtlDJO^ <ff PLANTS. 101
the spring, greett is the predominant color; and so varied
are the shades of this general vestment, or clothing, that it is
hardly possible to find two different varieties of plants of the
same shade of color. This general clothing of plants also
undergoes many changes during the season from spring to
autumn ; — the most general change that takes place, is the
expanding of the leaf of most plants, when the color is com-
monly of a light green, inclined to a yellow, and the forests
have at that time a tinge of yellow in their appearance ; this
coloring is soon changed into a deeper green, which, when
the leaf is at its maturity, is then at its deepest color. From
the maturity of the leaf to its decay, or dropping from the
plant — which is shorter or longer in different varieties — a
gradual change takes place, from a deep green to a yellow, in
most plants ; and in some varieties it is again changed to a
dark red, or purple, as in most of the native shrubs, which is
owing to the acid they contain. Leaves of plants are also
variegated or checkered in many ways, with two or three
distinct colors, which is exemplified in the Amaranthus tri-
color, Variegated Geraniums, and many evergreens, as Hol-
lies, Box, &c. Some leaves of plants have distinct colors on
each side, as the Tradescantia discolor ; and in some cases,
the color of plants is entirely extracted and a white is substi-
tuted, which is caused by the absence of light and air, as in
the case of blanched Celery.
Tn the flowers of plants, many changes are observable,
from their first expanding to their decay. The calyx, or
covering of the flower, is mostly green; — there is, however,
an exception to this rule in some few flowers, as the Ear-
drop, or Fuschia coccinea, which has a beautiful scarlet
calyx, or covering, that is often taken for the flower cups,
which are purple ; and the changeable part of the Hydrangea
hortensis, is nothing more than a changeable calyx, or cover-
ing, the flowers being no larger than a pin's head. The
petals, or flower leaves, are the most changeable ; as in most
flowers, when they begin to expand, their petals are of a light
12
102 **3 ^oir^aoARnEjjt COMPANION.
green color, which, on being expanded and exposed to the
atmospheric air, become red, purple, yellow ', or any color
natural to them, during which time it undergoes many
changes. Flowers are also variable in their parts, as in most
cases we find the anthers, which contain the pollen, are of a
yellow color, and the styles, which support them, of a hyali-
nus, or water color. The flower leaves, or petals, are also,
in many cases, mottled or variegated, as in the Geranium,
Balsam, Camellia, and many others.
In taking a general view of the colors of plants, it will be
found that white is the most common in the petals of spring
flowers, as the Snowdrop, Wood anemone, Cherry, Plum,
&c. ; water color in the styles and stigma of flowers ; yellow
in the heads or anthers of flowers, and in the petals of most
compound flowers, as the Sunflower, Coreopsis, Hawkweed,
and most autumnal flowers ; black is most common in seeds
and the bark of roots ; blue, red, and violet, in the petals of
summer flowers, as the Rose, Larkspur, and many native
plants ; red is also very common in acid fruits and berries ;
and green predominates in leaves and in the calyx of plants.
In closing the present article, it is proper to add, that the
color of flowers varies from their natural or primitive, accord-
ing to the location they are placed in ; and by observation it
will be found, that all kinds of fulgid flowers, as the Double
Lychnis, Roses, or any high colored ones, require to be ex-
posed to the sun and air: shade generally causes most flowers
to lose their deep colors, except those of a pure white, as the
Lily of the Valley, and those which naturally grow in shaded
locations.
ART. 3. — Double Flowers.
Double flowers are exemplified in the Double Dahlia,
Stock-gilliflower, Rose, and Camellia; they are, in most
cases, the result of luxuriance in culture, or other causes, by
which the organs of generation are transformed into gaudy
petals, or flower leaves ; consequently, such flowers cannot
VARIATIONS AND MOTIONS OF PLANTS. 103
possibly produce seed ; their varieties have, therefore, to be
prolonged by propagation of cuttings, roots, and layers.
Nothing is less constant in plants than double flowers,
which is fully exemplified in the Dahlia; as we may see on
the same plant, perhaps twenty flowers all differently formed :
some nearly single, with the organs of generation, as the male
and female parts, with a yellow centre; others approaching a
semi-double, and some a perfect double flower, until the va-
riety is termed " run out" which is to say, returned, to its
primitive state of a single flower. This sporting of flowers
is very different in plants of the same family ; for we see in
some plants that almost every flower is perfectly double, as,
for instance, in the Dahlia; the Countess of Liverpool gene-
rally forms a fine, clear, well-formed double flower; whilst
other varieties have occasionally a fine double flower; and
some, on the same plant, are semi-double, and the remainder
nearly single. The same affinity is observable in many kinds
of perennial plants, that produce double flowers.
In annual flowers, as the Stock- gilliflower, the double
flowers are more perfect, but the duration is shorter: one
year only it can be said to continue, although it is often pro-
longed by cuttings, which are mostly of a sickly appearance.
Whatever may be the value of double flowers, certain it is,
that they, sooner or later, will cease to be in existence.
The primitive, or single flowers, are the only varieties that
can perpetuate the vegetable kingdom to the end of time.
The economy of nature in this case, as in all others, has
given a variation, that too much sameness may not cloy our
pleasure. We, for instance, in some double flowers, find
them continue their perfect character for many years unal-
tered, as the Double White Camellia; in others, we perceive
a continual variation for a few years, as in the Dahlia, and
then the primitive state again predominates. In other deno-
minations of plants, as annuals, a yearly variation from the
single to the double flower is observable, as in the Stock-gil-
liftower; whilst the primitive, or single flower, at all times
104 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
presents the same form and number of parts, and is perpe-
tually renewed, and continued in its natural habit and quality.
ART. 4. — Motion of Plants.
The most general motion of plants that takes place, as a
natural change, is the well known fact, that most trees, shrubs,
and the lower order of plants, always incline toward the light.
This fact is observable in woods, where trees grow close
together, in which case their branches always incline towards
the light and air, as the vacant places, and the outsides.
Plants on the shelves of green-houses, or in windows, always
incline to the glass, and when their position is changed, the
leaves- and minor branches change their position also, and
incline to the light. If a number of plants are placed in a
dark room, in different parts, where there is a small window,
each plant will be found to direct its position in a direct line
to such window. In conclusion of this part of the subject, it
may be proper to state, that soft-wooded plants alter their
position, on being changed, sooner than those of a hard-
wooded kind ; therefore, the time of regaining the position
of any plant depends on its nature.
The movements or motions of the leaves of plants, is exem-
plified in many different ways. If a branch of a grape vine
is turned from its natural position, where it grows, so as to
turn the under sides of the leaves to the light, they will in a
few days regain their natural position, by being reversed on
their footstalks. This movement is apparent also in the
leaves of most kind of plants when reversed from their natu-
ral position, which they again resume, in a shorter or longer
time, in accordance to their habit, as before stated. In some
varieties of plants, the leaves fold up close to the footstalk in
the night. This motion is termed by botanists, " the sleep
of plants," and is observable in some varieties of Oxalis, and
many of the winged-leaved plants, as the Acacia lophanta,
which folds its leaves close to the stem by night, and unfolds
them at the approach of day. The same movement takes
VARIATIONS AND MOTIONS OF PLANTS. 105
place if such plants are put into darkness in the day time.
Some plants are known to close their leaves on being touched,
as the Sensitive plant; and some leaves are put in motion
by the most gentle breeze, as the Aspen-tree, the leaves of
which are always trembling on the tree, and hence the name
tremula. In flowers, a motion is observable in their folding
and unfolding, in different periods of the day; an example of
this is observable in a pretty green-house plant, the Oxalis
versicolor, which opens its flowers in the middle of the day,
when the sun shines on it, and the heat is above sixty degrees,
but closes when darkness comes on at night ; and on the fol-
lowing day the same motion is observable if the sun and heat
are congenial, but if not, the flowers remain folded. The
most beautiful motion in flowers that I am acquainted with,
is exemplified in the Edivardsia grandiflora. This beautiful
plant expands its calyx, which is cloven, when the sun shines
strongly on it ; from between the calyx, a drop of nectar, or
honey appears, and becomes larger as the sun has more influ-
ence ; the upper petals of the flower then ascend to catch the
honey, and protect the more delicate part of the flower, which
in time fully expands ; but so soon as the sun withdraws, the
tender parts of the flower close, and the upper petals descend
with honey adhering to them, which amasses the whole
flower in nectar, a rapid decomposition takes place, and in a
few hours the flowers drop from the plants, and putrefactior
immediately follows. This fact accounts for the difficult}
of obtaining seed from the plant in question.
CHAPTER VII.
On Spring and Fall Management*
ART. 1. — Spring Management, Pruning, &c.
WHEN the snow begins to disappear in the spring, the
shrubbery and flower garden may be often overlooked, and
some of the plants and shrubs that have much covering over
them, may have a part of it taken off: for it often happens,
that plants being too much covered at this season of the year,
make a feeble growth, and are much weakened and injured
thereby when fully exposed ; we should, therefore, uncover
all kinds of plants and shrubs by degrees, as the spring ad-
vances, for, by either exposing them too soon, or keeping
them covered too long, we cause them to make a weak and
tender growth.
When the snow is all gone, the garden may be cleansed of
all kinds of covering and rubbish that have collected during
the winter, and every thing should have a neat, cleanly ap-
pearance. The grass plat may also have a good raking, in
order to remove from it all dead leaves and decaying sub-
stances, which often deter the young growth of grass from
coming up in a regular manner; and the consequence is, that
it seldom has a handsome appearance during the summer
season. For a general explanation of the planting of trees,
sowing seeds, &c., I refer the reader to their proper heads,
in the Monthly Calendar.
Pruning and training.- — The earliest opportunity should
be taken to prune and train all kinds of shrubs, vines, creep-
ers, and the like. In this operation, a few leading principles
are requisite to be known, and the thing is so simple and easy,
that any intelligent person can perform it in the most accu-
rate manner.
The first thing to be observed in pruning any kind of trees
106
SPRING AND FALL MANAGEMENT. 107
or shrubs, is to take particular notice of the natural shape or
habit of the plant to be pruned. This will be found to be
different in almost every different kind of plants ; for instance,
in some plants we find them naturally to assume an upright
habit ; in others, a straggling ; and in some, a weeping. The
first is exemplified in the Hose of Sharon; the second, in the
Rose and Snowberry ; and the third, in the Weeping Wil-
low, Cherry, and the like.
To retain these habits, and improve the symmetry of plants
in such a manner that the sun and air may have as much
as possible a regular access to every pait of them, is the
leading principle of pruning; for although in many cases the
natural habits of shrubs and plants are cramped into unnatu-
ral forms, in order to give variety of effect, it cannot be re-
commended to be followed as a general rule ; for whenever
the natural habits of trees or plants are distorted into unna-
tural forms or positions, it has more the appearance of
mockery than reality. Nature, in this and every other case,
should be as much as possible copied and assisted, but never
cramped into unnatural forms and positions.
The natural habits of the plant being noticed, the next thing
is to examine and cut out all the dead wood. In this opera-
tion, the pruner must not be deceived, and disfigure the plant
by cutting out such shoots as will require to be left to fill the
vacancies of the dead wood in the growing season. The
dead wood being taken out, the next thing is to prune the
plant in a regular manner, by cutting out all the weakly
shoots, and thinning in such a manner that the sun and air
have a free access to every part : all long straggling shoots
should be taken off, that the shrubs or vines may have a
regular, compact appearance. In performing this operation,
sharp knives and instruments should be used, that the wounds
may be cut clean and heal freely.
Training all kinds of vines, as Honeysuckles, Clematis,
Bignonia, and the like, may be done with despatch, in order
that every thing may have a neat and cleanly appearance.
108 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
The training of vines is simply done by tying them neatly
with bass, or other strings, in such a manner that every part
is equally divided at a regular distance, and to allow a suffi-
cient space for the summer wood to grow, and be trained
between the shoots laid in at this season.
ART. 2. — Fall Management and Covering Plants.
We should be cautious that the early frost does not destroy
the Dahlia roots, and tender green-house plants, before they
are covered, or housed : I mention this the more particularly,
as it is very often the case, especially with young beginners
in flower-gardening, that tender plants are left too long un-
protected, and thus are much injured, if not totally destroyed.
The potting of plants, putting them in the frames, and the
like, are spoken of under their proper heads, to which I refer
the reader.
The covering, or protecting of plants, should be attended to
so soon as the frost begins to be severe. The Box edgings
may be protected by sea-weed, hemlock brush, long manure,
old tan, or other light covering. Merely to keep off the sun
from scalding Box edging will be sufficient, as it is more inju-
red by the sun thawing and bursting the sap vessels than by
being severely frozen ; and hence it is that the leaves of Box
edgings are often scalded in the spring.
The same rule that is here given with regard to Box edg-
ing, is applicable to covering most other plants. The princi-
pal object is to protect them from the sun: for it is not the
severe frost that injures them, so much as the sun, which,
when it exerts its full power on them, bursts their veins in a
frozen state, and causes the plants to sicken, and in many
cases to die. Many plants, as bulbs and herbaceous plants,
are often materially injured in the spring by being too thickly
covered in a warm temperature, and commencing to grow
when excluded from air; and when uncovered, the leaves
are made tender, and suffer very much on being exposed to
the sun and air.
SPRIXF AND FALL MANAGEMENT. 109
In many cases, the flower borders, if not in too conspicuous
a place, would be much better if the stalks of herbaceous and
other plants were not cut down in the fall ; for there is no
better protection than the stalks of plants, and especially if
leaves can be obtained from woods or elsewhere and put
around the crowns of the plants, in which case the stalks will
keep the light leaves in their places until the snow binds them
down. .Recollect that nature has given leaves and stalks to
plants as a natural covering, and therefore they are best
adapted to the purpose.
Covering Vines and Running Roses. — The Multiflora
Rose, and other tender kinds, require covering during winter in
some parts of the States, as do many kinds of running vines.
This may be effected by taking the plants entirely away from
the trellis, arbor, or the like ; then, with bass matting or other
string, tie them together compactly, and lay the whole on the
surface of the ground, where it may be fastened with hooked
sticks or other means ; the wood will require then to be co-
vered over two or three inches thick with leaves, long manure
or any thing that will keep it from being exposed to the
weather. In this state it may lay until the time of uncovering
in the spring.
Covering monthly Roses and half hardy Shntbs with
Straw. — The best method to perform this business, is to
drive down a stake near the centre of the plant, and about the
height of it ; this done, collect all the shoots and tie them
neatly around the stake, at three or four places, with bass
matting, osier twigs, or other strings ; this done, take a bundle
of wheat, or other straight straw, and place a quantity neatly
around the bush, butt end downwards, then bind the straw
with strings, in three or four places around the plant, in a
snug manner, as directed before, and place a shovel or two
of good rotten manure around the roots, to keep the straw
compact, and the intense frost from the roots of the plant.
Herbaceous plants may be protected by covering around
them with rotten leaves, long manure, old tan, or any light
K
110 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
covering, about an inch or two deep, which may remain to
the time of uncovering in the spring. This method may also
be applied to the Monthly Rose, which preserves the roots
and crown of the plant from severe frost, and will answer
equally as well as the covering with straw, .where the top of
the plant is not an object of consideration in being protected;
and this in many cases will be lost, even when covered with
straw, if the wood is not well ripened before the winter closes
severely.
When plants are covered too early in the fall, they are
often much injured, by the wood or crown of them becoming
soft in warm changes ; and in some cases herbaceous plants
will begin to grow at this unnatural season, by which they
are much injured in their flowering in the spring. The great
criterion in this matter should be, to have the wood and every
part of such plants as much hardened as possible previous to
the covering of them, in order that they may withstand the
severity of the winter with the least possible injury.
CHAPTER VIII.
On the Summer Management of Pot Plants and Garden
Frames.
ART. 1.— Of Pot Plants.
It is not without reason that many persons complain of the
unsuccessful attempts to cultivate green-house, and tender
plants, in pots during summer. The error may, however, be
easily detected, and a remedy effected in most plants, by the
following items.
To be clear on the subject, I wish it to be understood, that
POT PLANTS AND GARDEN FRAMES. Ill
the summer and winter treatment of the plants in question is
something different in this climate, and this being often con-
troverted, is the principal error complained of. For instance,
in summer, most plants require large pots, with a compost of
good mellow loam and well rotted manure, or leaf mould,
with a little coarse sand, to give a moderate drainage to the
fibrous roots, in order that the earth may not become saturated
by heavy rains, or over-watering: — the object should be, to
keep the roots of plants in summer, cool and moist, and in a
temperature as uniform as possible, without much repeated
watering, that washes away the nutriment contained in the
soil, which the plants ought to imbibe. In the winter, plants
require small pots, to be well drained, and their roots in a
moderately warm and dry state.
It is a great item of economy for florists to cultivate flowers
in small pots, in order to grow and accommodate a great
number in a small space, and to give the pots a quantity of
drainage at the bottom, in order that, when over-watered, the
superfluous moisture may be carried off when in a flowering
state, and in this state the plants are offered for sale. In
their new home, the plants are often exposed to the hot sun,
or where bricks or other dry materials attract the sun, and
cause their leaves to droop ; in this state the earth in the pots
becomes dry, and often so much contracted as to leave a cavity
between the ball of earth and the pot, in such a manner that
when watered it passes through between the earth and the
pot, and leaves the plant as dry as fine dust. In this state,
the fibrous roots between the inside of the pot and the ball of
earth perish with drought ; the plant continues to live in a
sickly state during the summer, the leaves turn yellow, and
if over-watered, when taken into winter quarters, it finally
perishes — owing to the mismanagement it has received in
summer.
It should be a general rule with those who purchase plants
in spring, to repot many kinds into larger pots, for them to
thrive well during the summer, such as, all kinds of Roses,
112 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Geraniums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuschias, and, indeed, all
kinds that require to grow during the summer. They will
all do well in the compost recommended for green-house
plants. By this method, and keeping them properly watered,
and in a location where they are partly excluded from the
mid-day sun, plants will generally flourish satisfactorily, with
a little moderate attention.
Where ample space can be appropriated to plants, it is a
good method to turn them into the flower borders ; which
see, under the head of Plunging Green-house Plants in the
Flower Borders.
ART. 2. — The Management of Garden Frames.
In flower gardens, where choice collections of plants are
always fostered, it is proper to have two or three garden
frames, for the protection of the half hardy kinds of herba-
ceous plants, as the Carnation, Polyanthus, Auricula, &c.
The frames for this purpose may be of almost any dimensions,
but those of a moderate size are the best — say of three sashes
from nine to twelve feet long, and from four to five feet wide.
The location of the frame should be where it can have the
full influence of the sun ; it should be well protected from the
cold winds by a board fence or otherwise. Care must be
taken that the place is chosen where it is perfectly dry, or
the snow water running into it will rot and destroy the plants.
Having the ground and frame thus prepared, about the
middle of September a lining of leaves, or manure, may be
placed around it, of about two or three feet wide. In the
bottom of the frame, some cinders or ashes may be laid, to
keep it dry, and to keep the worms from working up the
earth among the pots. Place the plants in a regular manner
in the frame, the largest at the back, and the smallest in the
front; be careful that they stand level, in order that when
watered the water may not wash off at one side.
The management of the frame in the fall, is simply to
water the plants when they require it ; to pick off all the
THE SHRUBBERY. 113
dead leaves, and keep it in every way neat and clean. The
sashes must be regularly taken off in the morning and closed
at night, on fine days, until the cold weather appears, when
they must be left on at all times, excepting fine, mild days,
when they are to be taken off, in order to air and strengthen
the plants.
When the weather sets in severe, the frame must be lined
around, two or three feet thick, and as high as the glass, wilh
hot horse manure ; and the lights must be regularly covered
at night with shutters, boards, mats, or the like, and uncovered
in the morning, unless the frost is too severe, in which case
the covering may be kept on all day.
During the winter, the interior of the frame should often be
looked over, on a fine day, and divested of any dead leaves,
or other nuisance. As the spring advances, more air may be
given, and the plants hardened by degrees to plunge into the
flower garden, as directed under the proper head.
CHAPTER IX.
Tlie Shrubbery.
THE shrubbery is so nearly allied to the flower garden,
that in a work professedly treating of the latter, a particular
notice of the former subject is required. Indeed it is rare
that a flower garden has a good and natural appearance with-
out the presence of the shrubbery, either in forming an out-
line on the margin, or occupying a prominent situation at the
end, for the convenience of a shady retreat, or other useful
purpose. Shrubs are either deciduous or evergreen; the
former are exemplified in the lilac, double flowering almond
and snowberry ; the latter in the Kalmia or American
10 K2
114 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
laurel and arbor vitse, and those plants that are always
clothed with leaves, and hence the name evergreen.
Upon a careful observation of the general method of lay
ing out flower gardens, it will be seen that there is too much
sameness in their appearance, arising from the neglect to
appropriate a part of the ground to ornamental and flowering
shrubs. This I imagine to be chiefly owing to the geome-
trical or Dutch system being mostly followed in laying out
flower gardens : and hence a method has been adopted that
is proper and natural to a foreign climate, but has little claim
upon good taste in this country, where climate and local cir-
cumstances are so opposite. It is a well known fact, that the
Dutch are the most successful cultivators of the tulip, the
hyacinth, and most other kinds of bulbous rooted plants, in
the known world ; and it is also known, that the soil and
situation in which they are grown are of a humid nature,
which is congenial to most kinds of hardy bulbous rooted
plants. Such local circumstances, united with industry and
intelligence, have put the Dutch florist in possession of an
annual income from bulbous flower roots of a very large
amount, which it is probable will not be equalled by any
other country for ages. But the climate of America is not
favorable to the culture of bulbs to a great extent, owing to
the soil and atmosphere being more dry in the spring and
summer season : on the other hand, hardy, hard wooded
shrubs, as the rose, double flowering almond, lilac, &c., are
well adapted to our soil and climate, and flourish extremely
well in the western and northern states. The native
varieties of beautiful shrubs, for which this country is so
eminently celebrated, by the European horticulturists and
amateurs, are also peculiarly adapted to the shrubbery, and
are highly deserving a more general introduction into the
flower gardens and foregrounds of country residences. It is
greatly to be hoped that the present good taste and enlight-
ened state of horticultural improvement in every department,
will be the means of arousing the attention of every lover
THE SHRUBBERY. 115
of native scenery to the culture and cherishing our native
American Flora. This method will at once create a taste
for cultivating native plants and flowers, and facilitate a prac-
tical knowledge of their habits and location, in a natural
state. The most pleasant associations that my early days
ever have and ever will hold in recollection, are in the stray-
ing in search of native plants for my little parterre ; each
succession of flowers, from the primrose to the fall flowers,
were eagerly collected, with sisters and brothers in infantile
unison ; and I am certain that when the youthful mind is
thus employed, it imbibes the most noble principles it is
capable of comprehending.
I recommend that shrubbery be more frequently planted
on the margins of lawns, the outsides of the flower garden,
and for clumps on extensive grass plats, to give a variety ;
and indeed in all kinds of foregrounds and side entrances of
almost any denomination. To residences on the main road
and in the immediate vicinity of cities, shrubbery can with
every propriety be introduced on the side wings of the lawn
and carriage roads ; and in many cases, if a belt or border
of some six or eight feet wide of shrubbery were planted in
front next to the road that passes such places, it would add
much to the beauty and value of the property. In many
places of this description the front entrances are planted
altogether with forest trees, as the balsam fir, sugar maple,
horse chestnut, ailanthus, catalpa, and similar tall growing
kinds, which when grown to the full size, give a very
heavy and gloomy appearance, where a lively variation should
have the preference. There can be no objection, however,
to a few ornamental trees being planted in front of such
houses, or even mingled with the shrubbery, and particularly
if so managed as to form a screen or outline to protect the
building from the cold winds : trees so situated serve the
double purpose of shelter and ornament. In planting shrubs
of every denomination, the general rule should be, to place
the plants so that their habit and appearance will be really
116 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ornamental and at the same time subserve (or at least seem
to) some useful end: for instance, the taller kinds, as the
lilac, snow-ball, and the like, are the most proper to cover
board fences and for the back part of shrubberies ; the more
dwarf kinds, as the double flowering almond, roses, mcze-
reon, and so on, for the front or facing. There is also some
taste required in mixing the varieties of foliage and habits of
the different kinds to be planted, which can only be acquired
by due observance of shrubs when in full foliage. The
-planting should be so managed that when grown up the out-
line is natural, that is to say not too formal ; but here and
there a little broken by some tall shrub growing above the
rest. In the front of such plantations a part of them should
be planted with herbaceous and other kinds of plants, which,
when nicely mingled with the shrubs, form a pretty contrast
in the flowering season. Indeed the margin of a shrubbery
is the best situation where such plants would flourish and
show to good advantage, besides giving a fine finish to the
whole.
CHAPTER X.
City and Native American Flower Garden.
ART. 1.— The City Flower Garden.
THE flower garden attached to city residences, when well
managed, embraces many useful features relative to health
and pleasure, and in every way conveys to the proprietor a
moral lesson in natural history of the most refined nature. I
trust that every intelligent person is aware that the continual
working of the ground, attached to city residences, is, in every
way, conducive to the health of the inmates, by dispelling and
rectifying the impure vapor, arising from smoke and other
CITY AND NATIVE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN. 117
causes, that condenses and settles on the surface of the ground,
which is purified if the earth is frequently turned up ; and, in
conjunction with this, the benefit arising is of common inte-
rest, in proportion to the quantity of ground kept in such
order, in any city or town.
Phytologists and philosophers inform us that the vegetable
kingdom exhales certain gases conducive to the health of
mankind ; and hence we infer the utility of trees and plants
in cities, especially when we take into consideration their
beauty and cooling shade. Nature, the best criterion, con-
vinces us of the use of plants and flowers, the earth being
covered in a measure with them ; no doubt, for a wise pur-
pose— the welfare of the animal kingdom.
In order to derive pleasure from a fine collection of flowers,
it is necessary to pay proper attention to their varied and
successive flowering; so much the more inviting would
they appear to the admirer; and the sure guide to this grati-
fication, is to furnish the flower garden with a suitable col-
lection of plants. These are the inducements to the culture
of the city flower garden; and that a moral lesson may be
derived from flowers, is proved, from the researches of the
most learned philosophers, to the untaught prattling of the
humble cottage.
The fragrance of the Rose is admired by all; its structure
gives a pleasing lesson to the young botanist, or naturalist;
to the artist, it furnishes a superior copy for many purposes;
and the apothecary extracts many essential oils and waters
from its petals, which are also used in a dry state, as con-
serves, and for various other purposes. Nor is the ffliife
Lily, in its purity, less deserving a place in every city flower
garden. Its fragrance, together with its pure white petals, is
produced from bulbs, which are valuable in cases of swellings
and wounds.
Flowers contain, also, in their primitive state, male and
female parts, covered with the petals, or colored leaves,
which are, in their infant state, enveloped in a calyx, or outer
118 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
covering, by which they are protected or supported when
expanded. Most flowers have also an equal proportion, and
an exact number of parts, in many thousands of blossoms ;
and in these there is every thing to please, and nothing to
offend, the most refined or chaste observers.
In concluding this subject, it may be necessary to offer a
few remarks on the management of the city garden. I ear-
nestly recommend it to be kept neat and clean, in order to
promote the health of the plants, and of their owners. It
should be often worked, to create a clear, sweet, healthy air ;
and at different times fresh mould should be added, to give
new vigor to the plants ; much manure is seldom requisite,
as city gardens are often too rich, owing to the quantity of
lime, ashes, and the like, incorporated with the soil.
The grass plat requires to be often mowed, for conve-
nience, neatness, and the well-being of the grass.
The plan of the garden, I recommend to be such as to give
ease, with variety ; so as to accommodate various plants and
shrubs ; the walks to be of clean gravel, with an edging of
box, or neat dwarf plants, as the Thrift, Dwarf Iris, Moss
Pink, and such like.
The trellises, arbors, walls, fences, and so on, should be
covered with vines and creepers, so that the whole may have
a corresponding appearance.
In laying out flower gardens, let them be so managed, that
many kinds of flowering shrubs may be introduced; for this
purpose, beds should be appropriated. The most common
error in laying out city gardens is, that they are too much cut
up into small figures, and consequently, shrubs, so essential
to give a variety, cannot be admitted. Nothing should be
cramped, but every thing should have an open, easy appear-
ance in the flower garden. (See Part I, Chapter I, " On
Laying out the Flower Garden.")
CITY AND NATIVE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN. 119
AHT. 2. — The Native American Flower Garden.
Native plants and flowers are those which are found grow-
ing spontaneously, without the aid of culture. Perhaps no
country has a finer or more numerous collection of hardy
flowering plants than the United Slates; indeed, no collection
can be said to be complete without the American Flora,
which has engaged the attention of horticulturists to such an
extent in Europe, that grounds have been prepared and
adapted for American plants ; and it is greatly to be hoped,
that the present good taste for gardening in this country,
will be the means of introducing the many pretty varieties
of flowering shrubs that are to be found in every part of the
Union, particularly the beautiful families of Spireas, Mag-
nolia, rfzelias, Kalmias, Rhododendrons, and many others,
that are much wanted in the flower garden.
There are also a very numerous collection of hardy her-
baceous plants, indigenous to America, deserving the attention
of the lovers of flowers, of which the beautiful family of
Phlox forms a prominent character, its different varieties be-
ing distributed in every part of the Union ; some of which
completely cover and decorate thousands of acres of the
western prairies in the spring. The Penstemon, Coreopsis,
Rhudbeckia, Liatris, are also pretty families of native plants,
abounding in almost all parts of the Union. There are also
several beautiful varieties of Orchideous plants, that are na-
tives, as the Cypripediitm, or Mockasin plants ; the Lady
Slipper, of which there are two or three beautiful varieties, to
be found on the borders of groves, and on the prairies, near
the barrens. To these may be added, several pretty varieties
of native bulbous rooted plants, particularly the Lily, of which
the Philadelphicum and Canadense are fine specimens ; and
are found growing on the borders of groves, and margins of
woods, in most parts of the Union. To these, the beautiful
genus of Trillium is also found in shady groves ; and with it
the Orchis, of many varieties, are to be found growing spon-
taneously hi most parts of the Union.
120 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
It would far exceed my prescribed limits to give a
descriptive list of the many varieties of plants that deserve a
place in the native flower garden. I have therefore noted
those which are most deserving of culture, by prefixing N. P.
in the Descriptive List, under the different heads of shrubs,
herbaceous plants, &c. ; and, as in every section of this
country, there are to be found native plants adapted to their
peculiar situation, I recommend that such as are pretty be
selected, and planted as similar as possible to their natural
location. This method will at once create a taste for culti-
vating native plants and flowers, and facilitate a practical
knowledge of their habits and location, in a natural state.
Nothing can be a more inviting appendage to the country
residence, where a sufficient quantity of ground can be ap-
propriated, than a plat converted into an American flower
garden ; especially on the banks of rivers and streams, as
those of the Hudson, Ohio, Mississippi, and many others,
from which water might be introduced. In such situations,
every variety of native plants might be commodiously planted,
and grown to a high state of perfection.
The best method of laying out such gardens, is to manage
the water so as to form a narrow strip, or stream, two or three
feet deep, and if a natural stream can be had, the better: at
the end, an artificial pond might be made, at a trifling ex-
pense, for growing the Water Lily, and native aquatics;
and also for the purpose of introducing gold and silver fishes.
The south margin of the stream might be advantageously
planted with native flowering shrubs, as the Jlzdias, Kal-
mias, Spireas, and those that are found growing in such
situations : the margin of the pond should be planted with
weeping willows, and trees of a pendulous habit, for shade,
under which, a rustic seat might be properly placed, for the
accommodation of those who desire to view the sporting
fishes, and. other interesting objects by which they are sur-
rounded. Attached to the pond, or streams, I recommend a
well arranged grass plat, with a few figures cut therein, which
CITY AND NATIVE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN. 121
should be planted with native herbaceous plants, and dwarf
shrubs ; on the margin of the grass plat, a serpentine, or
some well contrived walk, bordered with shrubbery, leading
to a rockery, of a semicircular form on the north side, and
almost straight on the south. A rockery so situated might
be planted with various perennial and annual plants, and
dwarf shrubs, which would there be in a natural aspect and
location. On the circular side of the rockery, divided by a
walk, a broad belt might be planted with different kinds of
native shrubs, as Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Azelias^ Andro-
medaS) and Spireas.
In some convenient place near the rockery, a rustic arbor
may be very properly placed, and covered with native vines
and creepers, for the accommodation of visiters, and the ju-
nior members of the family who wish to study botany. The
plants should be properly labelled, with the botanical name
on one side of a neat tally, and the native state on the other.
For the better accommodation of those who collect native
plants, they should be furnished with " NuttalVs Genera of
the Plants of North America" — a work which, in a very
concise and correct manner, gives the habit, time of flowering,
and location, of all native plants, and should be in possession
of every lover of botany.
11
CHAPTER XI. ^ -'
On Plunging Green-liouse Plants in Flower Borders.
THE flower garden may be greatly beautified in summer,
by plunging into the borders and beds, many varieties of
green-house plants, in their different compartments, in order
to give a diversity of foliage. The plants are also much
benefited by this method. Being placed in the ground in
this way, their roots are in a better situation, and receive a
more regular supply of moisture than could possibly be
applied to them in any other position.
The best time and manner of performing this, is to turn
out some of the most hardy kinds in the beginning of spring,
as the China Rose, Laurustinus, Myrtle, and the like : the
more tender kinds, as the Geraniums, Fuchsias, and others,
may remain until the middle or latter part, of May, or at a
time when the frosts are over. This process, like many
others, must be managed agreeably to the latitude of the
country in which it is to be performed, and the nature of the
season at the time of doing the work, which a judicious per-
son will at once discover, as a practical knowledge is worth
volumes of theory.
Care should be taken to place every plant, as near as pos-
sible, in a situation the best adapted to its nature. The
Camellia, Daphne, Nerium, and most kinds of evergreens,
thrive best in a shaded situation ; others thrive and flower
more effectually in an exposed location, as the Geranium
and most kinds of fulgid flowers.
Some taste is also required in placing the plants where
their habit will have the desired effect ; some require sticks
to cling to, and should be placed in the centre of small figures,
as the Thunbergia alaia, and Maurandia Bardayana, and
all convolvulous plants : others are more proper for the
122
PLUNGING GREEN-HOUSE PLANT*.
facings of borders and clumps, being of a trailing nature, as
the different varieties of Verbenas. Vines and creepers are
best adapted to the covering of arbors, trellises^ and so on.
The Thunbergia alala, Maurandiu Barclayana, and the
like climbing plants, may be trained to appear to advantage
on a trellis of an ornamental form, as that of a fan, balloon,
or pyram id, which should be of a size corresponding to the
place they are planted in.
There are many kinds of plants belonging to the green-
house, that ought to be propagated either in the fall by cut-
tings, and remain in pots in the house through the winter,
or to be propagated early in the spring, for the express pur-
pose of ornamenting the flower garden in the summer; as,
the different varieties of the Heliotrope, the Fuchsia, or
Ear-drop, the Verbena, and soft, free-flowering plants, which
should be plunged out of the pots ; — they should be mixed
indiscriminately among the other plants in the vacant places ;
— however, in some cases they are planted separately in beds
by themselves, as in small figures on grass plats, where they
have a very pretty effect in the flowering season.
All plants-set out not to be taken up in the autumn for the
green-house or rooms, should be plunged into the ground out
of their pots. But those intended to be taken into winter
quarters, as most kinds of evergreens and the like, should be
plunged in the pot, into the ground. Being plunged in the
pots, the luxuriant growth they would acquire, will be
in a measure repressed, owing to the roots being curtailed ;
whilst if turned out of the pot they would extend their
roots some distance in the soil, and when taken up in the
fall, the roots would be severed and the plants weakened
so as to require some time to recover.
The management of green-house plants in this way is
simply to water them when they need, and prune any strag-
gling branches that appear during the season.
CHAPTER XII.
Insects.
THERE are innumerable tribes of insects that are more or
less injurious to, and feed on plants and flowers, although
there are but few species that seem to be really of a destruc-
tive nature enough to encourage the florist to seek out means
for their destruction. It appears to have been one of those
beautiful ultimates of a wise Providence, to retard the mul-
titudinous increase of many kinds of infesting insects, by the
continual war and extermination of one species with another,
and hence we escape many serious injuries that would evi-
dently occur if such providential interference was not guided
by an unerring hand.
One of the most destructive classes of insects to the flower
garden and green-house, is the Aphides, or plant-lice, of
which Dr. Harris says, "They are found upon almost all
parts of plants, the roots, stems, young shoots, buds, and
leaves ; and there is scarcely a plant which does not harbor
one or two kinds peculiar to itself. They are, moreover,
exceedingly prolific, for Reaumur has proved that one indi-
vidual, in five generations, may become the progenitor of
nearly six thousand millions of descendants."
The word rfphis or plant-lice signifies to exhaust, and is a
truly recognizable term for this destructive insect, which is
seen in masses on such plants as it attacks, which it always
sickens and deprives of its sap or nutriment, converting the
fluid into a kind of honey dew which it emits on the leaves
of plants, and is often eagerly fed on by the rfnt, which
always lives in harmony with and protects the Ophidians or
plant-lice.
In the green-house, the Rose and Geranium are always
more or less affected with this insect. It is, however, easily
124
INSECTS. 125
destroyed by fumigation of tobacco, which should always be
resorted to when these enemies appear, and care should
always be taken that they are not allowed to be too numer-
ous before the remedy is applied. It is better to fumigate
two or three times than to allow the plants to be injured by
the insects, especially as the fumigation does not injure the
plants, but destroys thousands of other insects in their infant
state. The Green-fly is also very destructive to the Rose
in the garden, where it may easily be destroyed by dipping
the young shoot in a decoction of tobacco water, or it may
be applied with a syringe ; in either case it will be proper to
wash off the tobacco water by washing the shoots clean
with clear water in the morning.
The next common insect that infests plants is the Red-
spider, a small, minute insect, bred by dry, harsh heat or
internal air. Plants that are affected with this insect have a
sickly appearance, and their leaves turn yellow and then red;
on the back of the leaf a fine web is seen, and the insect is
readily seen through a magnifying glass, and sometimes by
the naked eye. There is no insect that I am acquainted
with so difficult to destroy as the Red-spider. In the green-
house steam and moist internal air counteract its ravages, and
if the flues are whitewashed over with lime and the sulphur
of vivum, it will in a great measure destroy it: but sulphur
should in all cases be very cautiously applied, as too great a
quantity suffocates and scalds plants.
Many plants, as Ericas, Acacias, Oleanders, and Camel-
lias, are very subject to a white scaly insect, which must be
removed by taking it from the leaf either with the point of a
knife or brush ; after removing the insect, take a wash made
by a decoction of soft soap with a small portion of sulphur
and tobacco juice, with which the parts affected are to be
sponged over three or four times. Oleanders, Camellias,
and many evergreens, are often infested with a large, black,
scaly insect, which can be removed in the same manner as
the before named.
L 2
126 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
There are several species of insects which attack the Rose,
as the Rose Bug, which is found in and attacks the flower, as
soon as it is opened. The only remedy I know of to keep
this down, is to pick it off from the flower as soon as it is
expanded. There is also a worm that is found in the bud,
which often destroys it before it is fully opened ; this must
also be kept down by picking it from the flower as soon as
it is discovered.
Rose Slug. — In some districts, as in the state of Massa-
chusetts, near arid about Boston, the Rose Slug is very de-
structive, and it almost destroys every leaf of the plant if not
prevented from its depredations. In order to obtain a remedy
against this infesting insect, the Horticultural Society of Bos-
ton offered the liberal premium of one hundred dollars, which
was awarded to Mr. David Haggertson, gardener to J. P.
Gushing, Esq., for the following effective remedy, viz. Take
two pounds of whale oil soap, dissolved in fifteen gallons of
water, and syringe the plant therewith, in the evening, till the
slug is destroyed. The plants will also require to be syringed
every morning with clear water, or the cure will not be ac-
complished to any purpose, as the leaves will be scalded by
the sun, and hence the remedy will be ineffectual. When
the slug is destroyed, which will be in a few days, the ground
should have a good cleaning under the plants, by taking away
all the dead leaves, and other filth that has collected, so that
the plants may assume their usual vigor, which will be re-
tarded if these are allowed to remain.
Many plants are also often attacked at the root by different
insects ; in this case, they always sicken, or lose their leaves.
There are several species of the Aphis, which feed on the
young fibrous roots of the Rose, &c. Each variety of plants,
as before stated, has its peculiar aphis, which will be seen
clinging to them in clusters, and must be either cleansed by a
decoction of tobacco juice, or washed off with clean water.
When this is done, the plants will then again assume their
usual growth and habit.
INSECTS. 127
The Rose, and many plants, are also often affected with a
large grub, which eats the roots asunder, and the consequence
is, the leaves turn yellow, and, if severely eaten, the plants often
die. The only method to destroy this depredator, is to clear
away the earth about the roots of the plant, where the enemy
will generally be found, although it is often the case that they
move their quarters, after they have done their work of de-
struction, to another plant. In this case, search must be
made under the neighboring plants, where the grub always
is to be found.
The Caterpillar, Grass-hopper, and their natural families,
must be detected when in the act of making their depreda-
tions. The Caterpillar will be seen, in its crystalized state,
on the wood of trees and plants in the spring, in rings formed
around the branches ; and it is then the time to destroy it, as
one of these contains thousands of young caterpillars, in their
infant state. The Grass-hopper is the most easily taken early
in the morning, and must be caught on the plants, as the
Dahlia, &c., when it makes its ravages too severe, which is
often the case in very dry weather.
Birds. — Before I close this article, I must say one word
in favor of encouraging and preserving all kinds of birds that
frequent the flower garden and shrubbery, and, indeed, there
are some of the small domestic kinds that, with a little kind-
ness, will even frequent and live in the green-house during
the winter. An instance of this kind occurred last winter, in
the green-houses of Sayers &, Heaver, of Cincinnati, where
one of those little feathered domestics took up its abode, and
fed on the apis, or green-fly, and kept the plants perfectly
clean during its stay in the winter ; but in the spring, it took
leave of its landlords, and the green-fly soon began to appear
in their usual numbers. Birds of most kinds that inhabit gar-
dens, feed on insects, and should be considered as one of the
safeguards against the multitudinous increase of them ; be-
sides, they are charming companions to the flower garden, par-
ticularly if a little sequestered, where they should be allowed
128 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
to build and increase, as rightful inheritors of the premises.
In addition to this, many birds are delightful warblers in the
spring ; and some of those of a migratory character, if wel-
comed to their new home, will make a long stay, and in many
cases the same bird has been known to revisit its stopping
place for several seasons. But I am now digressing from my
subject, and must therefore proceed to the culture of the
Rose, hoping that ornithology will ere long go hand in hand
with botany and the pleasing art of floriculture.
CHAPTER XIII.
The Rose.
ART. 1. — General Remarks.
THE Rose is so generally known, as one of the most pro-
minent class of flowers belonging to the flower garden, that
any comment on its beauty in this place would be altogether
useless ; I shall therefore proceed with its culture. In treat-
ing on the culture of the Rose, I shall bring the subject under
one general head, and then divide the different classes, as
acknowledged by florists, of the present improved state of
this lovely family of plants.
The first general division of the Rose, is the difference
made from the time of blooming, which is the Roses that
bloom in June ; and Ever-blooming, or Monthly Roses.
These are again subdivided into many parts, which take their
nomenclature from some property prevalent in the class, as
the Rosa Multiflora, or many-flowered rose; Rosa Damas-
cena, the Damask rose, &c. There are some also that are
classed in honor of distinguished persons in floriculture, as
THE ROSE. 129
Rosa Banksiana, or Lady Banks' Rose. The Lawrencea,
and Noisette Roses, are also of this character ; and several
species are named from their places of primitive growth, as
the Rosa Gallica, Rose of France ; the Rosa Bourboniana,
the Bourbon Rose; Rosa Indica Odorata, the Tea-scented
China Rose, &c. And, with these, we have the Remontan-
tes, or Hybrid Perpetutals, which is a charming class, and
should find their way into every flower garden.
In order to make the subject concise and clear, I shall
again recapitulate these under their proper heads, and speak
of their separate qualities, and places assigned them, whether
as a hardy garden rose, pillar rose, or those which may be
considered the pot rose, that are wintered, either in a green-
house or room, to protect them from the inclemency of the
winter, and for the gratification of having the plants flower,
and especially in the early part of the spring, which could not
be effected if they were allowed to remain out doors, in an
exposed situation.
ART. 2. — Propagation.
There are various methods of propagating the Rose, as by
seed, by cuttings, by layering, budding, and grafting the roots
in winter. The principal object of growing Roses from seed
is to obtain new varieties; and from this method many of the
beautiful varieties of hybrids have been originated of late
years, particularly the Remontantes, which have been pro-
duced by hybridizing the Perpetual and Bourbon. To the
florist, and those who are curious in the culture of the Rose,
this branch of floriculture may be adopted, by hybridizing
one variety with another, to obtain new varieties of an endless
number and variety.
Raising Seedling Roses. — The berries, or hips, of ROSCF,
will generally be ripe in the fall, when they may be taken
from the plant, and saved in sand until the spring. The ber-
ries may then be divided, and a rich piece of ground in the
garden may be prepared, in the same manner as for other
130 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
seeds, by digging and well pulverizing it; the seed may then
be sown in drills, twelve inches apart, and covered with a
portion of light earth, mixed with sand, and the ground gently
beaten down with the back of the spade, or a board, in order
to make the surface solid and level. To this method, may
be added that of sowing the seed in pots, or boxes, (old glass
boxes are just the thing,) and I think the best; these may be
filled with good compost, and the seed sown the same time
and manner as above directed. In either method, a place
should be chosen where the young plants are not too much
exposed to the influence of the sun, nor under the drip of
trees, in the summer. The ground should be kept moderately
moist, and by good attention most of seed will grow the first
year ; although it generally happens, as the covering of the
rose seed is very hard, many of them remain in the ground
until the second year before they vegetate.* In order to for-
ward the growth and flowering of the seedlings, they may be
taken from the seedling-bed when they have three or four
leaves, and transplanted into a nursery bed in rows, twelve
inches apart and six inches in the row. In this place, all the
hardy kinds may remain until they flower, which will be in
two or three years ; but the varieties of the Tea, and the
tender kinds, will require to be potted in the fall, and treated
as the pot rose, until they flower, when the cultivator may
determine on their qualities. This method is the one gene-
rally adopted for the roses that flower in June, or the hardy
garden rose.
For the choice varieties of pot roses, where a green-house
is at hand, I think the better method is to sow the berries of
Roses in pots or boxes, when taken from the plant, and place
them in the green-house during the winter; and by this
method the seed vegetates early in the spring; owing to its
being kept continually moist, the hard shell decomposes
sooner than when in a dry state. In this mode, care should
* See Propagation by Seed, Part I., Art. 2.
THE ROSE. 131
be taken to keep the mice from the seed, as they are great
lovers of the Rose; and, indeed, they are quite amateurs in
the seed of most choice flowers.
Propagation by cuttings. — Most varieties of the China
and Tea Roses are propagated by cuttings of the young wood,
which should be taken from the plant when they are well
ripened, which is soon after the mother plants have done
flowering, or more properly speaking, when its general flow-
ering is over; the cuttings should be plump and hard. A
good compost, with one-fourth sharp sand, should be mixed
for the purpose, and the cuttings taken off about three joints,
and prepared as directed under the head of " Cuttings," in
the green-house department. They are then to be inserted
in pots, or boxes, and placed either in a frame or a shady
location, and every attention should be given, by keeping
them moderately moist, clearing away any filth and decaying
leaves. In a few weeks, the cuttings will be well rooted,
when they are to be potted off, in small pots, and managed in
the same manner as directed for the potting of young plants
from cuttings in the green-house.
Propagation by layers. — Almost every class of Roses may
be propagated by layers, although the practice is generally
applied to those kinds which do not propagate freely from
cuttings, which are those known under the name of the old
garden, or June Roses — the Multiflora, Boursault, Champney
and most running roses, with the Remontantes, Bourbon, and
Perpetuals. The best time for this business is about the
latter end of July, or the beginning of August, when the
young roots, which are those to be selected for this purpose,
are tolerably well ripened ; but the best criterion is to layer
the Rose so soon as the ground is sufficiently moist to create
young shoots from the incisions, where the callus is formed
to make fibres, or young roots.
Budding Roses is one of the most speedy and certain
methods of increasing the Rose, and is now becoming very
prevalent among cultivators, particularly where choice va-
132 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
rieties are in demand. The operation is done in precisely
the same way as directed under the head, " Increase by In-
oculation" Part I., Chapter III. ; and the time of performing
the work, is at any time from June to October, when the
buds are well ripened, and the stock is in good condition, as
directed under the proper head.
Grafting Roses by the root. — This is performed in the
month of February, by collecting the long straggling roots of
the Boursault, or free-growing kind, that have plenty of
roots. On these, the choice kinds of the Perpetuals, Re-
montantes, and the Moss, are grafted, in the same manner as
recommended for grafting, under the proper head. When
the roots are grafted, they are to be potted and placed in the
green-house, to unite, which will be during the spring.
ART. 3. — Roses that bloom in June. — Various Roses.
Multiflora Rose, (Rosa Multiflora,) a Japanese variety,
and is perfectly hardy in the south-western states ; it also
bears the winters in cooler regions, only when the season is
unusually severe. The Multiflora is a slender growing
variety, and is readily increased by layers or budding, as the
cuttings do not strike root freely. The Grevilla or Seven
Sisters is of this class, and was once the leading rose of the
class ; the flowers are remarkable for having several shades
of colors in the same cluster, and indeed almost every variety,
as single, double, and semi-double, are to be seen mingled
together in one bunch or cluster. It is cultivated as a pillar
rose, and for covering trellises and arbors. To this may be
added Russelliana, or Russell's Cottage Rose, a fine speci-
men for pillars, &c. — a fine, free bloomer, with flowers of a
rich crimson, shaded, and sometimes striped with white. A
perfectly hardy rose and highly deserving culture.
Laure Devoust is allowed to be the climax of this class,
and is a strong grower, perfectly hardy, and a profuse
bloomer, bearing flowers of various shades from a white to a
pink, in immense clusters ; and to these may be added the
THE ROSE. 133
old Multiflora, the type of the class, which is a pretty
variety, bearing fine pink flowers in clusters.
Boursault Rose, (Rosa Alpina,) a hardy, slender species
of rose that is now found common in almost every flower
garden, and is often used to bud the choice kinds of tender
China Rose upon. It was once much esteemed as a running
rose, and it is at this time a useful variety for covering fencesf
trellises, and the like places ; and some are pretty for pillar
roses, as the Elegant, which makes a rapid growth and has
a profusion of fine, double, crimson flowers. Purpurea, or
purple crimson, is also a desirable variety, which is often
sold under the name of purple Noisette, or Michigan Rose ;
it has pretty, semi-double, purple, crimson flowers. To
these may be added the White Boursault, gracilis, and several
other varieties, which will be found in most nursery cata-
logues.
The Prairie Rose, (Rosa Rubifolia,) or Native Prairie, is
one of the finest climbers and pillar roses of the present day,
and is undoubtedly destined at no very distant period to
become a general favorite, and to find a place in every cot-
tage garden in this country. The old Prairie Rose, known
as the Ohio or Kentucky Rose, has been cultivated in the
western states since the year 1830, as a fine, native specimen
of climbing roses, and its double flowers produced in large
clusters of various shades and colors are still much admired.
This, however, has been much surpassed by the fine seed-
ling specimens produced from the native Prairie Rose, by Mr.
Feast, of Baltimore, who has grown the following splendid
varieties, which are perfectly hardy, and are peculiarly adapted
for either pillar roses, covering arbors, rockery, &c.
The Queen of the Prairies is one of the best of the above,
having fine, large, well formed, rose colored flowers, three
inches in diameter, dtp shaped, and having the property of
withstanding the sun without being scalded. It should be
in the hands of every cultivator.
Pallic/a. pale blush, perfectly double, is an admirable
~
134 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
variety for covering unsightly places, as it blooms admirably
lying on the ground.
To these may be added, Perpetual, Michigan, Elegans,
Superba, and others, which are all pretty varieties.
The Sweet Brier, (Rosa Rubiginosa,) or the English
Eglantine, is a well known, hardy variety, of which there
are now several varieties, although with most of them the
fragrance of the foliage is the most recommendable quality
for their culture. The plants are often used to a good pur-
pose for making ornamental live fences for the flower garden.
There are, however, two or three pretty, double varieties,
which are well adapted to the shrubbery, as the double
white and double red Sweet Brier, and their intermediate
varieties.
To these may be added the Scotch Rose and Yellow
Austrian, which are found in most gardens, and are divided
at the root. The varieties are pretty early flowering kinds,
and are generally admired for their buds. One of the pret-
tiest of this class is the Harrisonia or Hogg's Yellow Har-
rison, which is a beautiful double flowering variety.
The GARDEN ROSE, or June Flowering Rose, is the old
inhabitant of the English flower garden, and recognized
under several different varieties, as the Red Moss, which is
the type of the Moss Rose, which is now classed under the
head of
The Rosa Cenlifolia, var. Rosa Muscosa> or Moss Rose,
which is mentioned by Miller so early as the year 1727, and
is at this very time one of the best roses of the flower gar-
den, and in bud has no competitor among all the varieties
known at the present lime. From this has emanated many
varieties, which will be described in the Descriptive list, but
none to excel the primitive when in bud. To this may be
added
The Rosa Centifolia, or the Provins, or Cabbage Rose,
an old inhabitant of the English flower garden, but although
it is called an English Rose, it is undoubtedly a native of
THE ROSE. 135
Provins, a town a few leagues from Paris, where it is ex-
tensively grown for distillation, and produces that much
esteemed cosmetic, rose-water, &c. The old Dutch or
Provins Cabbage, is the principal type of this class, and
retains its character as one of the best roses of the garden,
at the present period. The old Moss Rose is also undoubt-
edly an old variety of this class, and from it, crossed with
other varieties, emanated several superb kinds, which will be
found described under their proper heads in the Descriptive
list. All of these varieties are perfectly hardy, and are
propagated by taking up the suckers from the mother plants,
by layers and by inoculation.
The Rosa Gallica, or the Rose of France, is also a per-
fectly hardy garden rose, and increased by layers and inocu-
lating. " Buist on the Rose," (a work which should be in
the hands of every lover of this lovely family,) says the
distinguished features of this family are strong, upright
flower stalks, want of large prickles, ridged leaves, and
compact growth. The colors vary from a pink to the deep-
est shades of crimson. Nearly all the striped, mottled, and
variegated varieties have originated from this group.
ART. 4. — Descriptive List of Roses that bloom in June.
Those marked thus *, are fine old varieties that are retained for their
superior qualities ; those marked thus f, are superior varieties that are
scarce, and of late introduction.
ROSA CEXTIFOLIA, var. Muscosa, the Moss Rose.
Name. Color, Character, and Forai.
*Red Moss. Rose color; splendid bud; the old Moss.
Crimson Damask. Deep rose, strong habit.
* Luxembourg Moss. Bright red; perfectly double, free grower.
Provins Moss, or Unique. White ; blooms in magnificent clusters.
Alice Leroi. Rosy lilac ; hardy, strong, free grower.
f White Striped Moss. Pure white, striped with pink.
* White Bath, or Cliff on Moss. Pure white; of rather delicate growth; glob.
•j-Laffay's, Perpetual white Moss. Pure white ; profuse bloomer.
ROSA CEXTIFOLIA, the Provins, or Cabbage Rose.
Unique. White ; often striped, [riety ; globular.
*Belgic, or Dutch Provins. Red; the old Dutch Cabbage, fine va-
j-Crested, Provins. Bright rosy pink; fine variety; cup.
Reine Caroline. Deep pink, vary to blush ; fine late variety.
136 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ROSA GALLICA, the Rose of France.
Name. Color, Character, and Form.
* Belle Africaine. Dark crimson; double compact flower.
Carmin Brilliant. Bright carmine ; cup.
* Coronation. Brilliant scarlet ; profuse bloomer.
Due de Choiseul. Pale rose ; flowers freely ; well formed.
Elemensie. Rosy crimson ; grows and blooms freely.
* Fanny Bias. Pale blush, shading to a pink; free bloomer.
* Hercules. Bright red ; with a delicious fragrance ; cup.
Isabel. Pink; flowers in clusters in profusion.
King of Rome. Bright red ; perfect form.
*La Negresse. Superb double crimson; fully double.
Ranunculus. Mottled rosy purple ; free bloomer.
j-Souvenir de Navarino. Expanded pink ; double, free bloomer.
* Tuscany, (Rivers'.) Dark rich crimson; free bloomer; expanded.
STRIPED, SPOTTED, AXD MARBLED VAR.
*Rosa Mundi. Spotted and striped with rose.
*Bicolor. Scarlet, with pure white stripe.
Hersilie. Pink, spotted with white.
Malsherbes. Rosy purple, spotted with white,
f Jeanne Hachette Red, with crimson spots. [white.
*Renoncule Ponctuee. Spotted and marbled with rose, crimson and
Village Maid. Carnation.striped with deep rose, pink & white.
ROSA ALBA, the White Garden Rose.
White Globe. Pure white; fully double; globular.
Madam Hardy. Pure white ; strong grower.
La Belle Augusta. Blush, changing to nearly white.
Clementine. Pure white; perfectly double.
Reine des Beiges. Pure white ; perfectly double. "
ROSA DAMASCEXA, the Damask Rose.
Leda. White flowers, edged with pink.
Mathilde de Mondeville. Rosy lilac ; fragrant profuse bloomer.
York and Lancaster. Striped pink and white.
HTBRID CHINESE ROSES.
Belle Parabere. Violet shaded crimson ; fine pillar rose.
Bon Ginnerure. Bright red, edged with violet.
Coupe d' Hebe, Hebe's cup. Delicate blush ; fine pillar rose.
D'Aubigne. Violet shaded purple, approaching blue.
Fulgens. Bright red carmine ; flowers quite double.
General Lamarque. Bronzed mottled crimson ; curious shades.
Rivers' George 4th. Rich crimson ; full and perfectly double.
L' Ingenue. Shaded crimson , very double.
Lpuis Philippe. Dark rose ; perfect, fine, blooms freely.
Lord Nelson. Dark velvet; perfectly double.
Petit Pierre. Purplish crimson ; large, perfect flower.
Prolifere. Dark rose, changeable to a violet.
Stadtholder. Clear pink; good standard rose.
King of Hybrids. Beautifully spotted arid striped ; cup.
Vandael. Rosy purple, changing to a violet crimson.
THE ROSE. 137
AHT. 5. — Hoses that bloom the whole season.
This class of roses may be divided into two parts, viz :
the old Monthly or Chinese varieties, and the hardy Hybrid
Perpetuals. The Chinese, or Rosa Indica, of which the
Tea Rose forms a prominent character, were formerly con-
sidered as green-house plants, and they now properly belong
to that department in the northern and eastern states, but in
the southern states they are all perfectly hardy, and need no
protection in the winter.
The China Rose is admirably adapted to the front stage
of the green-house, and with a little attention will flower
nearly all the winter. In the spring they thrive best planted
into the ground, and may be either mingled with other plants
in the flower borders, or they may be planted in separate
beds, and if the different classes are planted by themselves,
they form fine groups during the time of flowering.
Propagation. — The China Rose may be propagated by
cuttings, layers, budding and grafting on the roots. As all
these systems have been spoken of, it will be useless to
repeat them in this place. Suffice it to say, that the cultiva-
tor should always aim to strike the cuttings early in the
summer, in order to have the young plants well established
in the pot before winter. The common method is to strike
the cuttings in pots of prepared compost in precisely the
same manner as directed for green-house plants. When
rooted they may be potted in the same manner as recom-
mended under the head of propagating green-house plants.
The shifting of the young plants into larger pots, and general
treatment, is simply the same as green-house plants in the
winter, and will be spoken of under the proper heads, and
will therefore need no notice in this place.
The Rose should always be grown in a rich, loamy com-
post, with a portion of well-rotted manure and leaf mould,
with river or other coarse sand to give it a moderate drain-
age, as the R>&e always delights to root in a moderately clry
soil. Where a green-house is not on the premises, for the
12 M2
138 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
tender kinds of Roses, a pit or cold frame will answer for
winter quarters, as the slightest protection will preserve them
through the winter.
The Bengal, Chinese, or Daily rose, is also of this class,
and requires the same treatment; although in most parts
south of Philadelphia they are hardy, with the exception of
the wood, which is cut down to the ground, unless protected,
in severe winters ; which see, under the head of " Cover-
ing tender shrubs and roses," &c.
The Noisette Rose, which owes its origin to Mr. Noisette,
of Charleston, South Carolina, was raised by that noted
florist about the year 1815, and created great excitement at
that time among rose fanciers, and is supposed to have been
a production of the common China and White Musk Clus-
ter. Like all other classes of roses, there are now numerous
varieties of fine specimens of this rose, which have been
produced from seed. Several of the leading varieties at the
present day will be found in the Descriptive list to follow
this article. Like the before named varieties, the Noisette is
perfectly hardy in the southern states, but in the northern
states it requires some protection during winter. It is
propagated by cuttings, layers, and budding ; but by layers
is the best method. Its treatment is precisely the same as
recommended for the Chinese varieties.
The Lawrenciana, or Miniature Rose, is a very dwarf
variety of the China and the Lilliputian of the French
florists, who cultivate several varieties of this pet rose; one
of which, the Master Burke, we are informed by Hovey's
Magazine of Horticulture, when three years old, in full
flower, was completely covered with the half of an egg-shell.
This is a pretty variety for the amateur, and is particularly
adapted to room culture.
The Bourbon Rose, which takes its name from its place
of parentage, the Isle of Bourbon, is supposed to be a hybrid
between the China and Red-four-seasons, as it was there
first discovered by Monsieur Perichcu in planting a hedge
THE ROSE. 139
of roses, and sent to France in 1822 by Monsieur Jaques,
then gardener at the Chateau de Neuilly. According to Mr.
Buist, who is excellent authority on the Rose, the Bour-
bon is perfectly hardy in the southern states, and nearly so
in the northern, where it will stand in the open air with a
little protection, and is decidedly one of the best classes of
roses belonging to the flower garden. To this may be added
that lovely class of hardy roses,
The Remontantes, or Hybrid Perpetual Roses, which are
equally hardy as the garden rose, and with good cultivation
will produce flowers nearly through the season in great per-
fection. This is evidently one of the best classes of roses
for garden culture, and requires only to be introduced to
gain the general admiration of all who cultivate them. They
are cultivated the same as other garden varieties, and are
propagated freely by layers, inoculating, and grafting, but
they do not strike root freely from cuttings. To this may
be added,
The Microphylla, or Small-leaved Rose, with its small,
pinnated leaves, having the appearance of the locust tree in
miniature. The Microphylla Rose is generally hardy, and
delights in dry soils, giving a succession of flowers through
the season. This rose is peculiarly adapted for growing
against fences, and is in many cases used as live fences to a
good purpose. Those varieties most generally cultivated
will be found in the Descriptive list.
The Musk Cluster is also one of the old inhabitants of
the flower garden, and is peculiar for its musk fragrance,
although in every other property it is surpassed as a running
rose. It is more delicate than the Noisette, and requires
nearly the same culture, with the difference of its requiring
to be protected in the winter.
140 THE FLOWER GAREN COMPANION.
AHT. 6. — Roses that bloom the whole season.
TEA-SCENTED ROSE, (Rosa Indica var. Odorata.J
Name. Color, Character, and Form.
Barbot. creamy blush ; highly fragrant.
* Blush, or odcrata. exquisite fragrance.
Bougere. bronzed ; superb flower; cup. [cup.
* Caroline. pale rose ; one of the best of tb.3 tea-scented;
Clara Sylvain. pure white ; free bloomer ; strong grower ; cup.
*Devoniensis. straw, with buff centre; fine flower; cup.
*Duc d'Orleans. bright rose; strong grower; cup.
* Eliza Sauvage. salmon yellow; fine rose, but feeble grpwer.
Flon. fawn color ; large, fine flower.
Hardy. pink ; free bloomer, quite double ; cup.
Hymenee. creamy white ; free bloomer ; hardy ; cup.
Josephine Malton. creamy white ; strong grower ; cup.
La Sylphide. rosy buff; large flower ; free and hardy.
Madam Desprez. fine white; does well budded.
Mansais. large buff pink centre ; hardy.
Nid d' Amor. blush, with rosy centre ; cup.
Princess Marie. coppery rose ; beautiful free bloomer ; glob.
Reve du Bonheur. creamy blush ; early flower.
Safrano. very fragrant ; bright rosy red.
Triumph de Luxembourg, fawn color ; very large flower.
BENGAL CHINESE or DAILY ROSE, (Rosa Ind'.cn.J)
* Arch Duke Charles. rose, changing to crimson ; cup:
*Beau Carmine. dark crimson ; free bloomer; cup:
Belle Isidore. pink, changing to crimson ; strong grower.
Bisson. delicate rosy pink ; perfect double, and fragrant.
Lady of the Lake. beautiful pure white ; cup.
Multiflora Cels. blush; flowers perfect, and in profusion.
Comble de Gloxie. rich crimson ; large and double.
Cramoise Superior. brilliant crimson ; strong grower ; cup.
Gros Charles. shaded rose ; free grower.
Louis Philippe. dark crimson ; pale blush ; centre excellent.
Marjolin. dark crimson; hardy and luxuriant; glob.
*Thea a Fleurs Juane. pure white; flowers in clusters.
Mrs. Bosanquet. pale rose ; perfectly double ; cup.
Prince Eugene.
Reine de Lombardie. rosy red ; fine rose for the parlor ; glob.
Sanguinea. deep crimson ; free flower.
Triomphant. violet crimson ; flowers perfect.
Washington, (Landreth's,) crimson, frequently striped ; fine Amer. var.
NOISETTE ROSES.
Aimee Vibert. pure white; perfect form; free bloomer.
Marseillaise. crimson ; perfectly double and distinct.
Cbampneyana. pink cluster; profuse bloorner.
Chrornatella. yellow, or (cloih of gold,-} superior flower.
Conque de Venus. creamy white ; bright pink centre.
Cora L. Barton. clear rosy pink ; profuse bloomer.
Du Luxembourg. rosy purple ; sweet scented ; free bloomer.
THE ROSE. 141
Name. Color, Character, and Form.
Euphronsine. rosy buff; peculiarly grateful fragrance.
Fellenberg. pale red ; perfectly hardy ; free blopiner.
Jaune Desprez. rosy buff: hardy ; profuse grower.
Lamarque. yellowish white ; hardy ; rapid grower.
Le Pactole. yellowish w hite ; free bloomer.
Smithii. lemon yellow ; rather tender.
Prudence Roeser. fine rose ; rather dwarf; cup.
Rotanger. pale rose, changing to a blush.
*Solfatare. bright sulphur yellow ; pillar rose.
THE BOURBOX ROSE, (~Rosa Bourboniana.J
Acidalie. blush white; perfect; superb flower; cup.
Bizarine. rosy crimson; free flower, strong habit ; cup.
Boquet de Flore. deep carmine; free bloomer, strong plant;
Docteur Roques. rich crimson : distinct free bloomer. [cup.
Cy theree. bright rose ; free bloomer in clusters ; cup.
General Dubourg. large pale rose; fragrant flower; cup.
Grand Capitaine. bright crimson; (pi/lar rose,-) glob.
Hennequin. rosy crimson ; flowers in clusters.
Hermosa. bright rose ; superb flower ; cup.
Henry Plantier. deep rose ; large fine flower.
Madam Desprez. bright rose ; fine glossy foliage , cup.
Madam Newman. bright rose ; very fragrant ; cup.
Marshal Viliiars. deep purplish crimson ; splendid flower ; cup.
Paul Joseph. brilliant crimson ; free bloomer ; cup.
Queen, ("of Me Bourbon. Jwaxy blush; petals perfectly formed.
Violet de Belgique. violet ; splendid flowers.
Zulema. pale blush ; flowers in large clusters.
PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSE, ("Rosa Damascena, var.J
Algina. bright rose ; cup.
Antonia. quite double ; fragrant
Bernard. pink; fragrant and superb flower; cup.
Billiard. bright rose ; profuse bloomer.
Jeanne Hachette. very large pale rose ; perfectly double.
Josephine Antoinette. rosy pink ; fragrant, free bloomer.
La Reine, ( Queen of Perpetuate.) pale rose ; free bloomer.
Monthly Damask. pink ; very fragrant, free bloomer.
Noel. pale pink ; grows freely, very prolific.
Portland Blanc. white ; large fine form and fragrant.
Preval. pale flesh ; fragrant, profuse bloomer ; cup.
Rose du Roy. brilliant crimson ; fragrant; cup.
Stanwell. pale flesh ; free bloomer ; cup.
REMOXTAXTES, or HTHRID PERPETUAL ROSE.
Aubemon. rosy carmine; profuse bloomer; cup.
Comte de Paris. rosy purple ; delicate fragrance ; cup.
De Neuilly. beautiful clear rose, spotted with white; cup.
Edouard Jesse. bright red ; delightfully fragrant ; cup.
*Fulgorie. rosy crimson; flowers large and perfect; glob.
*Lady Forwirk. rosy pink; odor of the Damask; cup.
142 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Name. Color, Character, and Form.
* Louis Bonaparte. rosy lilac; superb and profuse flowers.
*Madam Laffay. rosy crimson ; a most splendid variety ; cup.
*Marechal Soult. bright rosy purple ; imbricated and fragrant.
Mistress Elliott. rosy lilac ; vigorous free bloomer ; cup.
* Prince Albert rich crimson ; vigorous and fragrant ; cup.
*Rivers. brilliant crimson ; fragrant profuse bloomer.
Rachel. bright rose ; cup.
THE MICROPHTLLA, ("Small-leaved Rose.J
Carnea. rose ; large double.
Violacea. violet purple ; upright growth.
Alba odorata. double white, yellow centre.
Maria Leonide. creamy white, blush centre.
Planting and Pruning. — As a general rule, the best time
for planting roses is early in the spring, when the ground is
in good order; although in some cases the hardy Garden
Roses may be planted with good advantage, on dry ground,
in the fall. The pruning may be done in the fall with the
hardy garden kinds, and in order to have them flower well
they should be pruned pretty close to the root to make the
plants throw up good, strong shoots of young wood ; for it is
from these the bunches of flowers are to be looked for. The
China and Monthly Roses should be pruned in the spring —
they should have all the injured wood cut off, and their main
shoots shortened to make them throw out young wood. The
running roses should be simply thinned out of all the weak
shoots, leaving always plenty of young branches for flower-
ing, as it is on these they give their profuse wreaths of roses.
They should never be shortened, but simply take out the
dead wood, &c.
PART III.
CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-
HOUSE.
CHAPTER I.
* On t lie Construction of the Green-house.
ART. 1. — Location and Plan.
THE Green-house being, at this time, an almost gener A
appendage to the flower garden, particularly in city residences,
where it is generally connected with the dwelling-house, is
the principal reason for introducing some remarks on the
subject in this place.
The position of the green-house should, if possible, be
such that it may face to the south, although a south-east, or
south-west aspect may answer : it must be a consideration
witli the owner, as to which is the most convenient place on
the premises. In all cases, it should be protected as much as
possible on the north-east, and cold quarters, and be exposed
to the south and south-east. The site on which it is to be
built must be dry, which facilitates the working of it in win-
ter, and is most conducive to the health of the plants. The
house may be of almost any plan ; it will appear to good ad-
vantage with a circular front, although a straight one is the
most general, and answers best. Thirty feet long and four-
teen wide, in the inside, is perhaps a good house ; but this,
like many other things relative to flower-gardening, must
depend on circumstances; the object here is to show that a
143
144 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
green-house of this dimension is the best general criterion for
one furnace; therefore the length will depend on circum-
stances. The front and end walls should be of brick, and
may be raised two feet above the surface of the earth ; on the
front wall, upright sashes, from two and a half to three feet
high, must be conveniently fixed so as to give air, either by
sliding into a grooved chase, so that the whole or any portion
of them can be taken out at either end, and air given if re-
quired, at any part of the front of the house; or they may be
suspended on hinges, to be lifted up at pleasure. The back
wall must be carried to such a height, that when the roof,
which must be glass, is put on, it will form an angle of forty
degrees ; the ends, which should also be glass, will have a
pitch accordingly ; the roof should be composed of sashes
four feet wide, the top ones to slide by pulleys and reels over
the bottom. The rafters may be four inches wide on the
outside, and bevelled to an angle inside ; the panes should
be five by seven inches, well glazed, with a lap of not more
than a quarter of an inch ; the wood, and all other materials,
require to be of the best quality.
AKT. 2. — Mode of Heating.
The house may be heated either by a dry flue or hot water,
but the dry flue is most general, and perhaps best.
Materials for the flue. — The materials are, about fifty fire
bricks, for an arch over the furnace, six bars of cast iron for
the grate, eighteen inches long, the ends of which must be
three inches square, and the other part two inches thick, and
three-fourths of an inch wide at the top, and half an inch at
the bottom, which will allow a sufficient draught and room
for the ashes to pass through.
The two frames required for the furnace and ash-hole
should be the same in size, twelve inches square, and from
two to three inches wide, with iron doors, hung in the usual
way: next, are two iron bars, as supporters for the grate,
which must be two feet long; the other materials are flue
CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 145
tiles, which should be twelve inches square. Soft bricks and
good mortar are the other requisites.
Building the furnace. — The furnace is the first to be at-
tended to, which should be at least fifteen or eighteen inches
below the level of the flue, in order to have a good draught.
The size of the furnace must be thirteen inches wide, in order
to give space for taking out the bars, when it is requisite to
clean the furnace ; the bars must rest on the two iron sup-
porters, underneath which will be the ash-hole, of the same
dimensions. An arch of fire-bricks must be turned over the
grating, fifteen inches high in the centre.
There should be a neck of a curvilinear form, from the
furnace to the flue, about three feet long, with a regular ascent
of one foot, to cause a good draught.
Position of the flue. — The position of the flue should be
such as to turn round the front and back of the house, from the
north-east to the north-west corner, where the smoke should
be carried horizontally from the neck before spoken of.
Dimensions of the flue. — In building the flue, I recom-
mend for a foundation, that bricks be laid in mortar, to the
width of twenty-one inches from the wall. On this founda-
tion, two courses of bricks must be laid on their edges ; one
three inches, the other fifteen, from the wall, leaving a space
of four inches between each brick, so as to form a pigeon
hole under the flue : on these two courses, lay a plank for a
foundation, on which lay either brick or tiles, for the bottom
of the flue; then proceed with three bricks, on their edges,
each side the bottom of the flue, which, when covered with
the upper tiles, forms the flue, the inside of which will be
twelve inches deep and eight wide.
AKT. 3.— Walk and Stages.
Adjoining the foundation of the flue, round the front of the
house, I recommend a walk, two feet wide, to be laid with
an inclination of half an inch in ten feet, to the south-east
or south-west corner, to carry off the water, which can be
13 N
146 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
conducted through a pipe, three inches in diameter, to pass
under the wall, into a reservoir; on the inside of the walk, a
row of bricks may be laid in an upright direction, to keep the
earth from covering the walk.
Staging of the house. — Over the flue, around the front, a
stage may be built for the accommodation of small plants,
consisting of four shelves ; that near the glass to be eight, the
second seven, the third six, and the fourth five inches wide ;
to descend towards the walk six inches, which will be two
inches between each shelf; or it may be made level, with
boards, if most convenient. A stage should also be erected
from the walk, to the back of the house, according to the fol-
lowing scale, viz : the first shelf next the walk to be four feet
six inches from the front glass, its height three feet, and
width seven inches ; the second, six inches above that, and
the same width; the third and fourth, eight; fifth and sixth,
ten ; seventh, twelve, and eighth the remaining space to the
wall. Their height, one above another, gradually to increase,
so as to leave the seventh twelve inches from the eighth,
which should be five feet from the top of the wall. In addi-
tion to the above, shelves may also be erected in other parts
of the house, for succulent plants, as the Cactus, and dry
stove plants, with many little things that may be added to suit
the owner's taste.
Having completed the house, the next thing to be attended
to is painting the wood work white, — the stage excepted, —
the brick work and walls require whitewashing, for the benefit
of the plants, and its neat appearance.
ART. 4. — Repairing and Cleansing.
Before entering on the subject of green-house plants, there
remain one or two observations on the internal arrangement
of the green-house, which, though not strictly pertaining to
the subject of this chapter, may be brought in here with
advantage.
To have the house in proper order for the reception of
CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 147
plants in the fall, it should be minutely inspected in the month
of August each year, that all repairs which appear necessary
may be done. The flue should be examined first, which
requires that a few tiles be taken off the tops, in order to
clean out the soot, that has collected during the winter; this
may be done with a hoe and brush ; the soot must be drawn
to the place where the tiles are taken off. The flue being
cleansed, it is next to be examined outwardly, the tiles pro-
perly replaced, repaired, and white-washed ; the back wall,
and every part of the brick work, must also be white-washed,
which will be of material benefit to the plants, when growing
in the house.
Lime-washing improves the appearance of the house, and
is a great preventative against the many insects which infest
plants. If a portion of sulphur be beaten fine, and mixed
with the wash intended for the flue, the red spider, that
minute pest to plants, will be greatly deterred from injuring
those which are at the dry end of the house.
The furnace is next to be inspected and repaired. The
internal part of the house being cleansed and repaired, the
roof should be inspected, and all broken glass repaired. The
wood work should be painted if required, and, in fact, every
part put in perfect order.
When the house is filled with plants, great care must be
taken not to allow any leaves or filth to collect, as it occasions
an impure air, which often causes the plants to have a sickly
appearance.
The leaves of plants being porous, and having the power
of absorbing the surrounding air in which they grow, it is
evident that their health greatly depends on the pure state of
it ; consequently, care should be taken to obtain that which
is most congenial, and which will be found to be a sweet
aid pleasant internal heat.
CHAPTER II.
On the Management of Green-house Plants.
ART. 1. — Taking the Plants into winter quarters, and Potting.
IN treating of the management of green-house plants, tak-
ing them into winter quarters should be the first consideration.
This must be attended to about the middle of September, al-
though in many cases it may be deferred to the beginning of
October ; yet the latter month cannot be recommended, as in
many instances plants are much injured by frost before that
time, particularly in the eastern and northern States.
Potting the plants. — Previous to taking the plants into the
house, those that require repotting into a fresh compost should
be attended to, in order that they may be well rooted and
established in the pots, so that they may have a good appear-
ance in the house ; many others, that are not properly green-
house plants, may be potted and taken in, to flower during
the winter, as the Polyanthus, Primrose, Stock- gilliflower,
Carnations, and others ; also, many varieties of bulbous roots
may be potted, as Tulips, Hyacinths, and Narcissus, which
will flower and decorate the house in winter.
Before the plants are taken into the house, the pots require
to be cleansed of all dirt, or any substance attached to them ;
all dead leaves should, also, at this time be taken from the
plants : indeed, everything should be done to bring them into
the house as clean as possible.
ART. 2. — Arranging the Plants in the House.
To put the plants in proper order, requires some taste and
judgment. Most plants have a peculiar location in their
native state ; therefore it is equally requisite that they have
something similar in their artificial location.
The Geranium, or Pelargonium, may be placed in a
148
MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 149
situation as close as possible to the glass, where they can
obtain the full influence of the sun. The Camellia, on the
contrary, requires a shady situation, but 'should be so placed,
that a free circulation of air can act upon it, which should be
wholesome, or the flower buds will eventually drop off before
they expand. All kinds of succulent plants, as the Cactus,
and Aloe, should be placed on shelves, in a warm, dry situa-
t on, where they can receive the sun and air, which is at the
east end. On the front shelves, small plants, of almost every
kind, of a hardy nature, may be placed ; and particularly such
as the China roses, bulbs, and those of a dwarf habit. If
this plan be observed, their appearance will be graceful and
pleasing.
Some taste is also required in arranging the plants in such
a manner, that the whole form a mingled group, not too for-
mal. Their various colors and forms should be so managed,
that there is not too much sameness, which will be the case
if several plants of a similar kind are put together. Some
plants, of tall habit, should be selected and placed separately,
where they can be seen to good advantage.
ART. 3. — Watering the Plants.
The best criterion for watering the plants, is to observe
those which dry the earth in the pots soonest; such will
generally require the most water ; but there is an exception to
this rule in the fleshy plants, as the Cactus, and succulent
tribe, which require water but seldom, during the winter
months; but when the spring commences, then most plants
require water more abundantly, especially those in a growing
state.
All kinds of evergreens, in a growing state, should be well
•watered : as the Myrtle, Orange, Lemon, Laurestinus, &c.
China roses require often watering, and so do also the Calla
sethiopica ; however, if pans containing water are kept un-
der them the better ; though not generally recommended in a
green-house.
N2
150 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
In some cases, plants are much benefited by watering them
all over; this must, however, be done cautiously, and at a
time when the water will quickly dry upon them ; for if it is
left on them too long, it greatly injures them, and prevents
their respiration and perspiration.
The time of watering plants must depend on circumstances;
the evening is the best, early in the autumn, after a fine sunny
day ; but in the winter months, the morning is the best ; for,
by watering in the evening, in winter, both the house and
the plants are injured, by being cooled too much. A water-
pot, with a rose, is most to be recommended, as it is not so
likely to wash the earth out of the pots, which injures those
roots near the surface.
ART. 4. — Temperature of the House.
Admitting air to the green-house, requires some care and
practical knowledge ; to do it properly, regard must be had
to the nature of the plants, and the time of the year. When
the plants are first housed in the autumn, the sashes should be
wholly let down during the day, and the house closed at
about half an hour before sun-set.
As the winter approaches, and the air gets colder, it must
be admitted more moderately in the morning, and the house
closed sooner in the evening, in order to shut in the sun heat.
The temperature of the house will depend on what state the
plants are to be kept in.
The green-house is mostly considered as mere winter
quarters for plants — to keep out the frost is considered suffi-
cient; but, for my own part, I think the green-house should
be made as inviting as possible in the winter, and the plants
forwarded a little, and forced into flower, for the gratification
of those who visit. The house, under such circumstances,
will require to be kept warmer than usual, by five or ten
degrees.
The temperature of the green-house is usually regulated
by the thermometer of Fahrenheit, and the principal object is
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS AND POTTING. 151
to keep it a little above freezing, say from thirty-six to forty
degrees, in a cold night ; but to forward plants to an early
flowering, from forty to forty-five degrees is the lowest it
should be allowed to fall to. The heat in the day-time, when
the sun shines, may be allowed to rise fifteen degrees higher
than at night.
In conclusion, I must again particularly recommend that
the plants be kept cleansed from all dead leaves, and other
filth, that may either be attached to the pots or plants : the
pots must be either washed or new ones used in shifting,
about the beginning of March, so that they have a clean and
healthy appearance ; the shelves should be often cleaned dur-
ing the winter, and the pots often moved, to prevent water
from collecting under them, which stagnates, and injures the
roots. It is also very requisite that a quantity of water, of a
proper temperature, be always kept in the house for watering
the plants, and to be at hand in case of fire. Every attention
should be paid to the hottest end of the flue ; no chips, or
shavings, should be left near it, which, in many cases, I be-
lieve, have been the cause of the destruction of the house by
fire. The house should be examined during the winter, and
if any parts, in consequence of the severe heat have given
way, they should be immediately repaired.
Anx. 5. — Descriptive List of Green-house Plants.
In forming a Descriptive List of green-house plants, I have
selected those kinds which are of easy culture, and free flow-
ering. Some attention has also been paid to select such kinds
as would give a variety of flowers during the season, with the
addition of the list of the Geranium, Camellia, &c., that are
to follow. No particular attention has been paid to those
plants of a recent introduction, unless they have been proved
worthy of notice as standard varieties; the principal object
of the list being to describe such plants only, as are hoped to
be worthy always of a place in the green-house.
152
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Those marked thus *, are running vines, adapted to train on walls, pil-
lars, &c. ; those marked with the initials, E. S., are evergreen shrubs ;
those with D. S., deciduous shrubs; and those with P. E., plants that re-
quire to be grown
in dry peat earth.
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
ACACIA.
ACACIA. E. S.
verticillata
whorl-leaved
Yellow 6
March, April.
armata
prickly
Yellow 4
March, April.
suaveolens
sweet-scented
Yellow 3
Feb., June.
decipens
paradoxical
Yellow 3
March, June.
longifolia
long-leaved
Yellow 10
March, April.
lophanta
two-spiked
Yellow 8
March, April.
AGAPANTHUS.
AFRICAN LILT.
Fleshy rooted.
umbellatus
large-flower
Blue 3
April, June.
variegatus
striped-leaved
LJlue 2
April, June.
BANKSIA.
BAXKSIA. E. S.
serrata
saw-leaved
Yellow 12
July, Sept.
grandis
great-flowering
Yellow 4
May, Aug.
speciosa
long-leaved
Green 5
May, Aug.
BUDDLEA.
BUDDLEA. E. S,
globosa
round-headed
Orange 15
May, June.
BEAUFORTIA.
BEAUFORTIA. E
.S.
decussata
splendid
Scarlet 3
May, July.
sparsa
alternate-leaved
Red 3
May, July.
BOUVARDIA.
BOUVARDIA. E.
S.
triphylla
three-leaved
Scarlet V
April, May.
versicolor
various-colored
Red 2
July, Sept.
BURCHELLIA.
BrRCHELLIA.
capensis
cape
Scarlet 3
March, June.
speciosa
showy
Scarlet 2
June.
CALCEOLARIA
, SLIPPERWORT.
*
rugosa
rugose
Yellow 2
July, Sept.
Smithii
Smiths'
R. yellow 1
March, April.
venusta
veined
B. yellow 1
March, April.
angustifolia
narrow-leaved
Yellow 1
March, April.
metia
meteor-like
Bi. crim. 1
March, ApriL
CALLA.
CALLA.
sethiopica
Ethiopiar
White 2
March, June.
CORR^EA.
CORR^A.
alba
white-flowered
White 3
March.
speciosa
red-flowered
Red 3
March, April.
\irens
green-flowered
Green 3
May, Nov.
*COBJGA.
COBSU.
scandens
climbing
Purple 15
May, Oct.
CORONILLA.
COROXILLA.
valentina
nine-leaved
Yellow 3
March, Nov.
glauca
smooth
Yellow 3
Jan., March.
MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
153
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
CITRUS.
ORANGE-TREE.
myrtifolia
Myrtle-leaved
White 3 ft.
April, May.
limonum
Lemon
White 12
April, May.
Aurantium
sweet
White 15
April, May.
nobilis
Mandarin
White 15
April, May.
CYC AS.
SAGO-PALM:.
revoluta
narrow-leaved
3
DAPHNE.
DAPHNE.
odora
sweet-scented
Purple 2
Feb., March.
variegata
variegated
Purple 2
Feb., March.
indica rubra
red
Red 2
Feb., March.
DIOSMA.
DIOSMA. P. E.
odora
sweet-scented
White 2
March.
capitata
hirsuta
headed
hairy-leaved
Purple 2
Pink 2
March, May.
March.
ciliata
eye -lash
White 3
March.
latifolia
broad-leaved
White 3
March.
EPACRIS.
EPACRIS. P. E.
grandiflora
great
Crimson 2
Feb., June.
pulchella
sweet-scented
Pink 4
April, June.
purpuracens
purpurascent
Purple 3
Jan., March.
FICUS.
FIG-TREE. E. S.
elasticus
Indian Rubber
8
FUCHSIA.
EAR DROP. D. S.
coccinea
scarlet
Scarlet 3
April, Sept
gracilis
slender
Scarlet 3
April, Sept.
globosa major
globe-flowered
Scarlet 2
April, Sept
microphylla
small-leaved
Scarlet 2
April, Sept
GARDENIA.
GARDENIA. P. E.
florida
Cape Jasmine
White 4
May, Sept
radicans
rooting
White 1
May, Sept
GNAPHALIUM.
EVERLASTING-FLOWER. P. E.
glomeratum
cluster-flowered
Yellow 1
March, June.
HELIOTROPIUM.
HELIOTROPE.
peruvianum
Peruvian
Purple 2
March, Sept.
grand iflorum
large-flowered
Purple 3
March, Sept
HOYA.
HOTA.
*carnosa
fleshy-leaved
Pink 4
April, May.
HYDRANGEA.
HYDRANGEA.
hortensis
changeable
Red, Blue
April, Sept
ILLICIUM.
ANISEED-TREE.
floridanum
red-flowered
Red 2
March, April.
IRIS.
IRIS.
chinensis
Chinese
Blue 1
March, April.
susiana
Chalcedonian
Striped 1
Feb., March. --
KEXNEDIA.
KENNEDIA.
• i>
*rubicunda
dingy-flowered
Scarlet 2
Feb., June.
* coccinea
scarlet
Scarlet 3
Feb., June.
154
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
comptoniana
Compton's
Blue 6 ft.
March, June.
cordifolia
heart-leaved
6
March.
LAGERSTRCEMIA. LAGERSTROZMIA.
iadica
Indian
Red 5
May, Sept.
LAVENDULA.
LAVENDER.
dentata
tooth-leaved
Lilac 2
April, May.
LINUM.
FLAX.
trigynum
three-styled
Orange 2
Dec., March.
MAGNOLIA.
MAGNOLIA.
purpurea
purple
Purple 2
March, April.
conspicua
downy-leaved
White 3
Dec., Feb.
grand iflora
laurel-leaved
White 4
MANETTIA.
MANETTIA.
bicolor
two-colored
Red, Yell. S
Jan., March.
cordifolia
heart-leaved
Scarlet 3
April, May.
MARICA.
MARICA.
caerula
blue
Blue 1
Jan., March.
MYRTUS.
COMMON MTRTLE.
E.S.
communis
common
White 3
variegata
variegated
White 2
METROSIDEROS.METROSIDEROS. p.
E.
saligna
willow-leaved
Crimson 4
March, May.
lanceolatus
spear-leaved
Crimson 4
March, May.
speciosus
showy
Crimson 4
March, May.
NANDINA.
NAJTDITTA.
domestica
panicled
4
NERIUM.
ROSE-BAT. E. S.
splendens
double-hybrid
Red 4
May, Sept.
album
white-flowered
White 4
May, Sept.
variegatum
variegated
Striped 4
May, Sept
OLEA.
OLIVE-TREE. E. S.
fragrans
fragrant
White 3
March, May.
PASSIFLORA.
PASSION-TLOWER.
*alata
wing-stalked
Varieg. 15
March, Nov.
*princeps
15
March, Nov.
*racemosa
racemose
Striped 20
March, Oct.
*coerula
blue-flowered
Blue 3
May, June.
Jefferiesi
Jefferies'
Crimson 10
Aug., Sept.
Loudoni
Loudons*
Scarlet 10
Aug., Sept.
PASSERINA.
SPARROW-WORT. E. S.
filiformis
heath-leaved
White 1
June, Aug.
grandiflora
great-flowered
White 1$
May, June.
PITTOSPORUM.
PITTOSPORUM. E. S.
tobira
Chinese
White 3
April, May.
undulatum
wave-leaved
White 3
April, May.
PLUMBAGO.
LEAD-WORT.
capensis
cape
Blue 2
April, May.
MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
155
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color. Height.
Time of flowering.
POLYGLA.
MILK-WORT.
myrtifolia
myrtle-leaved
Purple
3
March, April.
speciosa
showy
Purple
3
March, April.
cordifolia
heart-leaved
Red
3
March, April.
PROTEA.
PHOTEA. E. S.
speciosa
splendid
Purple
2
March, June.
longifjlia
long-leaved
Purple
2
March, April.
STRELITZIA.
STRELITZIA. Fleshy rooted.
reginae
queens
Yellow
2
May, Sept.
THE A.
TEA-PLANT. E. S.
veridis
green
White
3
March.
bohea
black
White
3
March.
ART. 6. — Tender Bulbous Rooted Plants.
The varieties named in the following list are of easy cul-
ture, and are deserving a place in every green-house. Most
of them are natives of the Cape of Good Hope, or South
America, and require to be placed, when in a growing state,
in a warm part of the house, where they will flower in great
perfection, if properly managed. A compost of two thirds
good mellow loam, with a portion of good rotten leaf mould,
and sand enough to give a free passage for the water to pass
through readily, will answer most kinds of tender bulbs.
One great point in the cultivation of these plants, is that they
are allowed a certain time of rest natural to them, and the
neglect of this, and endeavoring to keep them always in a
growing state, is the cause of many failures in their cultiva-
tion.
Supposing the bulbs to be in a state of vegetation, pot them
into the compost above recommended. In doing this,
care should be taken that the bulbs are not buried too deep.
They should be merely pressed into the compost, so that
the crown of the bulb is above the surface of the earth
when potted. When potted they should be placed in a
dark situation for a few days, until they begin to make
roots, the plants may then be moderately watered, and as
the roots make their growth the watering and heat may be
increased until they are in full growth, when plenty of heat
156 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
and water should be applied. After the flowering is over,
and the plants have passed their vigor, the leaves will begin
to have a yellow color, then the watering must be gradually
decreased until the leaves decay, when the bulbs will require
rest. They should then be placed away in the pots, in the
earth, on dry shelves, and the watering must be suspended
for a month or two until they are again in a state to com-
mence vegetation. The great point in growing tender bulbs
is to increase the watering and heat with their growth, and
to decrease with their ripening to maturity, and keeping
them dry when in a state of rest. In potting, the rule must
be to pot the large kinds, as the Amaryllis, single, one bulb
in a pot, and the Babianas, Oxalis, and the like, three or four
bulbs in smaller sized pots to correspond. In the green-
house the small varieties are particularly adapted for the
front shelves or staging, whilst the larger species, as the
Amaryllis, are the best adapted for the warmer parts of the
house. All the Oxalis are much benefited by light and
having the influence of the sun.
There are several varieties of tender bulbs which are
planted in the ground about the middle of May, for summer
or autumn blooming. The Gladiolus and Tiger-flower are
of this kind, and are marked thus *, in the following list, as
are all others used for that purpose. The management of
these bulbs is simply to plant them in vacant places of the
flower borders, or in separate beds, as directed for the Tulip
and Hyacinth ; the bulbs must be taken from the ground
before the approach of winter, as they will not bear any frost.
They are to be kept in boxes, in a dry room, or on shelves
in the green-house, during winter, and be replanted in the
proper season, as before recommended.
MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
157
Tender Bulbous Rooted Plants.
Name. Color. Time of flowering.
ACHIMENES.
coccinea scarlet May, June,
grandiflora large flow'rd May, June,
hirsuta hairy leaved May.
longiflora long flow'rd May.
picta red & yellow May.
rosea rose colored May.
ALSTRQEMERIA.
Pelegrina striped June, Sept.
Ligtu striped Feb. March.
Hookerii roseate
Flos Martini w. pur. y. Jan.
tricolor three colored May, June.
AMARYLLIS.
Johnsoni crimson April, May.
*formosissima crimson May, June.
vittata variegated May, June,
psittacina scarlet May, Aug.
insignis scarlet July, Aug.
equestris scarlet Aug. Sept
Belladonna flesh color July, Sept.
ANTHOLYZA.
ffithiopica orange May, June,
vittigera orange Jan.
BABIANA.
rubro cyanea red, blue March, Ap.
plicata purple March, Ap.
sulphurea yellow March, Ap.
tubiflora yellow, red June.
villosa hairy March, Ap.
BRUNSVIGEA
Josephinse Brunsw'k lily July,Aug.
multiflora many-flow'rd July, Aug.
CRINUM.
americanum July, Aug.
Commelini June, Aug.
longitblium June, Aug.
amcenum June, Aug.
august um June, Aug.
amabile June, Aug.
CYCLAMEN
coum red Jan. April,
hederaefol. purple April.
Europseum light red Aug.
Persicum red & white March, Ap.
album white March, A p.
DIANELLA.
csevulea blue May, Aug.
divaricala blue July, Aug.
o
Name. Color. Time of flowering.
EUCOMIS.
punctata variegated June, July.
GLADIOLUS.
versicolor variegated May, June,
cardinalis dark red May, July.
psittacinus yellow
*floribundus many flow'rd blush.
*roseus rose colored.
*Colvillii red & yellow.
*formosissimus splendid scarlet.
*prsecox.
H^EMANTHUS.
coccinius scarlet June, Aug.
carneus red June, July.
IRIS.
moraeoides April, Aug.
persica Persian March.
IXIA.
crateroides crimson May, July,
conica orange May, June,
maculata spotted April, May.
leucantha white, blue April.
LACHENALIA.
tricolor three col'd March, Ap.
quadricolor four colored March, Ap.
pendula variegated Mav, June.
LILIUM.
longiflorum long flowered white,
concolor red flowered,
punctatum spotted with red.
rubrum blush, spotted with crim-
[son, magnificent.
Japonicum branching white.
Japonicum nova orange.
Thunbergia dark red.
NERINE.
undulata waved May, June,
alba white May, June,
ver.usta scarlet May, June.
OXALIS.
versicolor variegated Jan. Mar.
caprina red Feb.
crenata red March,
fabaefolia yellow Oct.
rosacea pink Feb. Mar.
Bo\vii crimson SepL Nov.
ORNITHOGALUM.
niveum white Aug.
flavum yellow June, July.
'
158
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Name. Color. Time of flowering,
altissimum white June, Aug.
PANCRATIUM,
angustum narrow leaved May, Aug.
amoenum May, Aug.
rotatum wheel crowned May, Aug.
speciosum showy May, Aug.
POLIANTHES TUBEROSE.
*tuberosa tuberous Aug. Sept.
*pleno double white Aug. Sept.
SPAR AXIS,
lutescens yellow Ap. May.
Name. Color. Time of flowering,
cerulescens bluish A p. May.
coclestris pale blue. Ap. May.
tricolor three colored,
picta painted. Ap. May.
I'IGRIDA, TIGER-FLOWER.
*conchiflora yellow Aug. Sept.
*pavonia red Aug. Sept.
TRITONIA.
crispa flesh color May, June.
rocata saffroned May, June,
pink June, July.
CHAPTER III.
On. the Culture of the Camellia Japonica.
Anr. 1. — Remarks.
THE Camellia Japonica, or Japan Rose, may be considered
as one of the nobles of the green-house, during the period of
its flowering, which happens, in a good selection, from No-
vember until April. No collection of green-house plants can
be said to be complete, unless it contains several varieties of
these beautiful plants. The foliage is glossy, and of a per-
petual green, which affords a striking contrast of shade with
the flowers. When we consider its longevity, annual in-
crease in magnitude and blossom, together with its easy and
simple culture, under proper treatment, it is a most desirable
plant. It should be cultured in the following manner :
In its location, either in the green-house or open air, dur-
ing the summer season, the plants must be partially excluded
from the burning rays of the sun, especially at midday, at
which time it often burns and injures the leaves, and also
damages the plant. Too much fire heat, in a confined situa-
tion, is also injurious to the Camellia, and frequently causes
CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 159
the buds to fall off before they expand ; every opportunity
should be taken to afford it plenty of air.
Propagation. — The methods of increasing the Camellia
are various, viz. by cuttings, layers, buds, and inarching the
finer sorts on the single flowering red.
The most successful and generally adopted plan is, how-
ever, to propagate the single red, by cuttings from off the
young wood, which should be taken from the plant in Sep-
tember or October, and rooted, either under hand or bell
glasses. The method of performing this, is to prepare a
sharp sandy loam, which is put into pots, or on a bed, with
a quantity of old tan underneath ; the cuttings are put into the
pots in the usual manner. When the cuttings are well rooted,
which will be in two or three months, they may be put into
small pots of light earth, or sandy loam, mixed with a quan-
tity of leaf mould. They should remain in these pots until
they are filled with roots; they are then to be shifted into
pots of a larger size, for the purpose of inarching; the best
time for this is the latter end of February, or beginning of
March, and the scion may be taken from the mother plant in
August, if well united.
Management in the Green-house. — The Camellia should
be placed in the house so as to be partially shaded from the
sun ; and if on the ground where some sand has been placed,
the better. They will require a moderate watering, in order
to fully expand their flowers ; and if moderately syringed in
fine weather at sun rise, they will be much benefited in their
flowering : but care must be taken that it is not done too
copiously, for if the water remains too long on the buds, it
often causes them to fall off; if they are kept too dry,
especially when much tire heat is applied, they will also fail.
The leaves should be often sprinkled, morning and evening,
as they absorb a considerable quantity of moisture ; being
elastic, the leaves of the Camellia perspire less than those
of deciduous plants, and consequently act as a reservoir of
nutriment, as we see by experiment ; if a Camellia loses its
160 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
leaves death often ensues, which is not the case with decidu-
ous plants and shrubs. I have had evident proof that by
refreshing Camellias in this way, it gives health and vigor to
them, and, at certain seasons, causes the sap to descend, and
buds will burst forth from the bare parts of the plant even
when it has been divested of all the fibrous roots but a short
time before. And further, this process is essential to the
flowering of the plant. I have seen instances of large
flowers being produced from plants almost rootless ; the
watering, or sprinkling over of these plants, may be done
more or less according to the season, and the state of the
internal air in the situation in which they are growing.
In the spring, when the flowering is over and the plants
begin to grow, refresh them often at their roots, as they
require a considerable quantity of water when in a growing
state.
Care should be taken, not to water the top of the plant
while in flower, when the sun shines on it, which causes the
blossoms to have spots on them, by the water collecting on
their petals, and especially on the white kinds. This process
may be omitted in cloudy weather, as they will not be in a
proper state to imbibe the water; the plants will not dry their
foliage or buds, in consequence of which the moistened buds
will, in a measure, decay, and the calyx fall off when the
flower expands; this appears to be owing to that part being
moistened too long, which prevents respiration, in conse-
quence of which it becomes inert, and putrefaction follows.
The heat of the house should be moderate, from forty to
forty-five degrees, and at all times a wholesome and mellow
internal heat and air, should be the principal aim of the man-
ager; extremes of either are always injurious.
Repotting the plants. — Shifting or repotting the Camellia
may be performed any time after they have done flowering,
which is generally in the month of March ; in doing this, care
must be taken to give plenty of drainage, in order to let off
the water, which sometimes settles at the bottom and satu-
CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 161
rates the soil, and the consequence is the roots are often
rotted off. Broken pots will answer the purpose for
drainage.
The soil best adapted for the Camellia, is a good mellow
loam, with a portion of leaf mould, well mixed together ; if
the loam is not of a sandy nature, some good sharp sand
may be added, to make it more porous, for the fibrous roots
to grow and work more freely in.
When the plants are potted, they are to be located in such
a manner that they may have the full benefit of the air ; if
they are too much confined, they often become very weak;
they seldom set their flower buds strong and vigorous, and,
indeed, it often causes them to lose their buds, and, if not
this, to flower weakly. The plants at this time require
plenty of water, to cause them to grow freely and strong.
As early as the weather will permit, the plants may be taken
from the green-house, and placed in their summer situation,
which should be in a north or northeast aspect; where they
are fully exposed to the air and not under the drip of trees
or buildings.
The following list of Camellias was kindly selected by
Marshal P. Wilder, President of the Massachusetts Horti-
cultural Society, and are varieties which he has proven to be
worthy of cultivation.
Name. Description.
CAMELLIA.
Alba pleno double white,
alba fenestrata pure, white, regular and full.
ama\>i\e.(~Smith'sJ rose and red.
Baltimoreana white, striped with rose. [fine.
Binneyii dark crimson, sometimes with stripes, extra
Caroline Smith crimson blush centre, superb.
Carswelliana deep rose, striped with white.
Campomolendina form and character of C. imbricata, fine.
Candidissima white, very perfect
Conspicua very large red.
Chandlerii Chandler's.
Celestina very delicate rose, form regular.
Coquettii rose, striped and spotted with white, fine.
Collettii rose, profusely marked with white.
14 o2
162
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Name.
Donkelarii
delicatissima
Duchesse d'Orleans
Estherii, ( Smith's J
eclipse
elegans
elata
erecta
fimbriata
Feastii
Floyii
Fordii
Glorie d'ltalie
Gilesii or Nancy Dawson
imbricata
Imbricata alba
Innocenza
Jeffersonii fGunnelTsJ
Landrethii
Martha (Buist'sJ
Myrtifoha
Monteronii alba
Mrs. Gunnell
New York f Floy's J
Oxriglomana superba
Palmer's perfection
Prattii (~Buist'sJ
picturata
Pictorum roseum
Queen Victoria
Description.
white, scarlet and crimson, beautiful,
white, striped with rose,
white, striped and spotted with rose, fine form,
very large white, with rosy stripes,
white, striped with rose,
beautiful rose, white centre. [with white,
violet red, full, imbricated, occasionally tinted
crimson, full, regular and perfect,
fringed white.
white, with spots and flakes of rose, superb,
rosy red, large,
rose, superb,
white, regular form,
fine crimson and white,
crimson, striped with white,
white, with pink,
white, regular, full, and double,
scarlet crimson, very perfect and beautiful,
pale rose, fine,
large white, very perfect,
light red and purple,
white, marked with rose, fine form,
white, very double,
crimson, very large,
blush, striped with carmine,
dark rose, marked with white,
beautiful rose, striped with white,
large white, marked with red.
vivid rose, fine form,
cherry-red, striped and splashed with white.
Q. of England (~ Fielder's Jdelicate rose, marked with white.
Sherwoodii
Spiraliter imbricata
Saccoi nova
Serratifolia
Sarah Frost
Sulcata
tricolor
Teutonia
Violacea superba
Victoria alba
Washington f Boll's}
rosy crimson and white,
rose, full, large, perfect,
clear rose, beautiful shape,
dark rose, beautifully variegated with white,
rosy crimson, very regular and perfect, [good,
white, with yellowish stripe in each petal, form
beautifully striped, semi-double,
remarkable variety — producing white and rose-
[colored flowers on the same branch,
carmine and violet, very large. [large,
white, occasionally touched with red, full and
white, shaded with rose. [perfect and superb.
Washington (~ Gunnell' sj light cherry red, faintly striped with white, very
Wilderii beautiful rose, very distinct in color, regular
and full to the centre, and of the most
exquisite formation.
CHAPTER IV.
On the Culture of the Geranium, China Rose, and Verbena.
ART. 1 . — The Geranium, or Pelargonium.
THIS beautiful tribe of plants are mostly natives of the
Cape of Good Hope, and their elegance, when in a flowering
state, particularly recommends them to every lover of flow-
ers ; indeed, no green-house is perfect without a good collec-
tion of them.
The general management of the Geranium is something
different from the Camellia, although they will both thrive
well in the same house, and with the same heat; but their
location should be different, as they require to be situated so
as to obtain the influence of the sun and air, and as near the
glass as possible. If this is not done, the wood will grow
weak and succulent, and, consequently, will seldom flower
strong and healthy.
Propagation, or increase. — The Geranium is increased
by cuttings, in the months of August and September, or at
any time when the young wood is well ripened; or, by its
roots being cut into joints and inserted in a pot of compost,
and treated the same as cuttings.
The compost best adapted for this purpose, is one-third
sandy loam, one-third peat, with a little rotten leaf mould, and
some river sand.
When the compost is prepared, begin to propagate by cut-
ting the ends of the cuttings to a joint, transversely, and in a
clean manner ; then take the pot, which should be six inches
deep, and six wide at the top, and fill it two inches from the
bottom with broken pots, beat fine with a hammer; after
which, the remainder should be filled up to the rim with the
soil, into which the cuttings may be inserted half way, in a
neat manner; the pots are then to be shaken gently, to close
163
164 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
the earth to the cuttings ; after which, they may be gently
watered, and the pots plunged into the ground to the rim, in
a shady situation, under a wall or fence. They will require
to be watered when the soil appears dry. In four weeks,
if carefully attended to, they will be rooted, and fit for pot-
ting off.
Potting the young plants. — When the cuttings are well
rooted, they must be potted singly, into small pots, three
inches deep, and the same in diameter. The manner of per-
forming this work, is to put two or three small pieces of
broken pots at the bottom, and on them a small portion of
rotten leaves, and fill up with the same soil, as before re-
commended for the cuttings. When they are well rooted,
they may be taken into the green-house.
The principal object in growing the Geranium, being to
have a strong dwarf plant for flowering, care should be taken
not to over-water it, nor keep it too warm. It should be al-
ways kept moderately dry about the roots, and in small pots
during the winter season. When the plant is grown four
inches high, the heart is to be pinched out, in order to make
it form a bushy head.
About the beginning of February, Geraniums may be
shifted into the pots they are intended to flower in ; for this
purpose, the soil should be similar to that recommended
above, with this exception, that more rotten leaf mould, or
manure, be added, with a portion of bone dust, at the bottom
of the pot, which causes the plants to flower finer. They
require a moderate portion of air to be given them, and more
water, as the weather grows warm.
Remarks. — The principal thing to be considered in grow-
ing the Geranium to perfection, is to keep the plants in a
dwarf, bushy state during winter, and not excite their growth
by too much water or heat. They should be kept moderately
dry, and as the sun increases, the plants should be encouraged
to grow, by repotting them in larger pots of rich compost, and
giving additional waterings.
GERANIUMS, CHINA ROSE, AND VERBENA.
165
The following List of Geraniums has been carefully se-
lected from the best varieties of the present day.
Color, and Descriptive Character.
Fine white, with dark spots.
Blush, white and rich crimson.
White ; profuse bloomer.
Large crimson ; free bloomer.
Rose white and crimson.
Large blush, with dark crimson spot.
Rosy crimson.
Superb pink ; blooms profusely.
Delicate rose, with dark spot.
Salmon color ; large, fine flower.
Early white.
Large rosy red.
Fine, dark, rosy red.
Rosy red.
Dark red.
Rose, shaded with bright red.
Pale pink.
Blush, with dark spot.
Very large bright red.
Large scarlet crimson.
Bright red, with crimson stripes.
Dark rose, with crimson stripes.
Fine dark crimson.
Superb rosy crimson.
Rosy blush, with crimson stripe.
Fine, dark, rosy red.
Fine lilac and crimson.
Bright and crimson j fine form.
Pure white, with crimson.
Rosy white, marked with crimson,
White, and dark crimson.
Bright crimson mark ; profuse.
Bright, clear red.
Brighf rose, with dark crimson.
Large salmon crimson spot.
Dark rose, ringed with purple.
Delicate rose, dark spot ; fine form.
Waxy pink, and crimson; superb.
Superb white, marked with red and
Rose, red, and crimson. [crimson.
Pale rose, clouded with crimson ; fine.
Purple, crimson; large.
Splendid white.
Name.
Alexandriana.
Alicia.
Annette.
Beauty of Ware.
Blandina Multiflora.
Bridegroom.
Climax.
Calypso.
Corinne.
Coronation.
Dowager Queen.
Discount.
Eliza Superba.
Fosteri Rosea.
Flash.
Flamingo.
Fanny Garth.
Florence.
Gauntlet.
Grand Monarque.
Henry Clay.
Harrisonu.
Jewess.
King, (Games'.)
Lady Dillon.
Lifeguardsman.
Lord Aukland.
Lenoxii, (Buist's.)
Mrs. Clay.
Mrs. Peck, (Bui-st's.)
Miss Percival, (Buist's.)
Mrs. Stiles, (Buist's.)
Oliver Twist
President
President, (Buisfs )
Perfection, (Dennis'.)
Robert Buchanan, (Ross'.)
Sylph.
Una.
Vivid.
Victory.
Vulcan.
Witch.
166 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
ART. 2.— The China Rose.
The green-house should always possess a good collection
of the Chinese or Ever-blooming Rose, and particularly the
choice varieties of the Tea Roses, which are delightful speci-
mens for the spring flowering, although the common daily,
and some of its varieties, are excellent for buds in the winter
flowering, and are much admired in the bouquet.
To have roses in good perfection for the green-house, they
should be well attended to in the autumn, by neglecting
which, the China Rose makes but a poor show in the winter.
The general method of allowing the plants of the China
Rose to remain in the ground too late in the fall, is a bad
system ; for in that case the plants do not have the chance
of being well established to the pots, before taken into the
house, which is one reason of their flowering but indiffer-
ently during winter. To grow roses in good perfection in
the green-house, the plants should be two years old, and the
method I recommend is to strike the cutting in summer, as
directed under the head for the culture of the rose. The
cuttings may remain in the small pots during winter,
and in the spring they may be plunged into the ground.
These may be taken up and repotted about the latter end of
August, in a compost of two thirds good mellow loam taken
from the top of a rich piece of sod or pasture, and the
remainder, well rotted manure or leaf mould, with a portion
of good sharp sand ; mix it well together and have your pots
ready for the business.
Prepare some pots of a convenient size for the plants,
by placing some pieces of broken pots at the bottom, to
give a good drainage to the plants ; cover these with some
pieces of rotten sod from the compost, and put in a little of
the compost, sufficient to receive the plants, which should be
carefully taken from the ground with some earth attached to
the roots, if possible. They may be potted in the same
manner as directed under the head of "General Potting," in
Part III., Chap. VII, When potted give them a good water-
for two or three weeks. When
id they begin to be wefl established by
rnmpostj dean away all
an airy site, where they
mm, to grow the plants into a healthy state before they
taken into me bouse. By following mis method, the
winter, and in the spnng may agam be turned into the borders
i; and if a mrrrxm of plants is yeariy grown for
£>-"•- r:?e? :r,iy 2_"iys
The
in the front of the house, where ihcy nay weave the son
and fight, and give mem as modi air as can be consistently
y pyipose. For a collection of
I refer the reader to their proper heads under me culture of
the rose, in Part IL, Chap. JJIL
Amr. 3.— On the G*aw oft
Thealmo
tk» with its hardiness and easy culture, renders it one of the
iesuafele classes of pbnte for the
garden. Most of the present pretty
be found an
of which the old Mdutdrit and TWcdumu were
•rents. These, with the old JTiite TVacrwfe*,
have been crossed, and from them most of me present bril-
freely, whan planted oat in
168 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
the garden, by rooting at almost every joint, in moist weather,
in September and October, in the same manner as the garden
Strawberry. There are, however, some of the upright-grow-
ing kinds, which do not increase so readily this way, but they
all root freely, when the young shoots are layered into pots,
or in the ground, when they are growing. The Verbena
may also be propagated by cuttings, almost at any time, in
the same manner as the Geranium, in pots filled with a com-
post of one-third sand, and the remainder loam and well rotted
manure, or leaf mould. It is also increased, to obtain new
varieties, by seed, which is ripe in October, and should be
collected and saved until the spring, and sown in pots filled
with the same compost as directed for cuttings.
The Verbena may be considered, strictly speaking, a green-
house plant, although it is in the flower garden where its
chief beauty is so desirable, particularly in the summer and
fall of a dry season, when other flowers are almost perished,
then this plant is almost the only gem of flora. In the
flower-garden, it has a pleasing appearance in almost any
location, and it is admirably adapted to be planted on the
rockery, if there is one, or on any dry bank or rising ground,
as it thrives well in any dry location, and is also often planted
in masses in the flower borders, or in neat cut figures on
grass plats, where the mingling of the different varieties forms
a pleasing contrast with the green sod. When ornamental
vases are introduced in grass plats, they may be filled with
compost, and the Verbena planted there ; and if properly
managed, the vines will hang down in brilliant tresses of
flowers of the most ornamental character. In many cases,
they are also trained to small trellises, in the green-house or
flower garden, of an ornamental character, in the form of a
fan, a balloon, pyramid, or almost any form the taste may be
inclined to select.
For the green-house, the plants should be selected in Octo-
ber, and planted into small pots, and taken into the house so
soon as the first frosts appear. They should be placed on
GERANIUM, CHINA ROSE, AND VERBENA.
169
shelves near the glass, in order to receive the sun, and be in
a dry location, so congenial to the flowers ; when the plants
are over-watered, and kept too far from the glass, they draw
into weak, slender growth, and generally damp off on the
surface of the earth in the pot. In rooms, the same culture and
management will be requisite. The plants, in this location,
during the winter, should be moderately watered, care being
taken not to saturate the earth with too much water, which is
injurious to them.
List of Verbenas.
Name. Color. Name,
alba floribunda white, with dark eye. jPulchella
bicolor " '-• &
Color.
violet purple,
fine scarlet, with crim-| Queen pure white.
[son centre. Rose brilliant light crimson, superb,
fine blue, pale centre. Royal purple deep, velvety purple.
Blue Queen
Chalmerii white, pink centre.
candidissima large white.
elegans fine rose, red centre. Stewartia
Emperor pink and white. 8 trial a
Feastii large white, changing! superba
[to purple.
Hendersonii crimson purple. Teucroides
Hogg's red red, with crim. centre.' Tweedianii
Julia fine rose. j Vesta
Magnet rose, with bright crim.! VV ilsonii
Mestonii bright scarlet
Melindris bright scarlet.
Pearl shaded blush.
Sayersii white, changing to
[blush, free bloomer.
velvet maroon.
pink and white.
bright scarlet, yellow
[eye.
old white, fragrant.
fine crimson.
new, scarlet
very dark purple.
Wilson's scarlet white eye.
Yarnellii very dark crim. purple
15
CHAPTER V.
On the Culture of the Erica , Azalea, and Rhododendron.
ART. 1.— The Erica.
THE Erica is one of the prettiest families of plants culti-
vated in the green-house; and its culture is highly deserving
of more general attention than has hitherto been bestowed
upon it. However, there are many pretty varieties finding
their way into the various collections, which I hope will still
receive additions. The plants are neat and pretty in habit,
and, when in flower, form a lively contrast with other plants
of the green-house : they are, indeed, a class of plants that
are grateful to the common observer, claim the strict attention
of the. amateur, and are worthy the most minute examination
of the curious and refined. In a good collection, they possess
many shades of color, as white, green, red, pink, <fec. ; and
in some instances they are variegated or checkered in a very
pretty manner. The manner in which they flower is also va-
rious ; as, in clusters, spikes, and in numerical order, which
are designated as biflora, triflora, and so on ; and in different
habits, as pendulous, erect, &c. The formation of the flow-
ers also varies, and has a definitive character, as that of
tubiftora, curvi/Zora, and the like regular forms. But their
intrinsic value is only to be discovered by examining the
flower minutely ; when the neat form and prettily contrasted
colors always reward those who bestow such pains with a
rich treat of one of nature's most finished copies.
In the bouquet, the Erica is not surpassed by any flower
of its season; and no flower keeps longer as a cut flower in
water.
To my fair patrons, I must recommend the more general
culture of this pretty family of plants, and hope the follow-
ing little treatise will at least assist those who are desirous to
170
ERICA, AZALEA, AND RHODODENDRON. 171
cultivate them in their management, which, when better
understood, I am convinced will greatly add to the interest
already manifested in the Erica.
AIIT. 2. — Culture and Propagation.
The culture of the Erica is, by many persons, considered
very difficult, although, when practically understood, it may
be said to be very simple. Soil, situation, and temperature,
must be in accordance with the nature of the Erica, or it will
never flourish and flower well. All kinds of the Erica re-
quire a black peat, or bog earth, to flourish in perfection ; for
the roots of the plants, being fine and thready, cannot per-
forate a heavy loam or close soil; and, on the other hand, a
very spongy soil would be quite as uncongenial to its nature.
In fact, two kinds of soil are requisite to grow the different
varieties to perfection : the small, dwarf kinds require a dry
peat, obtained from high, dry ground ; and the tall, luxuriant
kinds, a soil obtained from a low, moist ground. This is
readily accounted for, as the dwarf varieties are found natu-
rally growing on high ground, and the taller varieties on low
grounds ; but the nature of the soil is very similar. The
situation of the Erica should always be that of a cool, shaded
place. If the plants are exposed to the sun in summer, they
will suffer at the root; and, if placed where they receive too
much fire-heat in the winter, the leaves will be injured. It
should be moderately watered, and should never be very dry
at the root, or very moist: if the roots are allowed to become
entirely dry, the plant will sicken accordingly ; if too moist,
they will make a slender, feeble growth at the leaf, and decay.
The Erica is propagated from seed, which I recommend to
be sown in the month of December, or so soon as it is ripe,
in a pot of black peat earth, and placed in the green-house.
Care must be taken that the seed is not covered too deep ;—
if a quantity of white sand can be procured and placed on the
earth, the better. When the seed is sown, the top of the pot
172
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
may be covered with glass, until the plants make their ap-
pearance, when it may be removed from them.
In the spring when the plants are grown an inch or two in
height, they are to be potted off, in small pots, for flowering,
which will be, in the dwarf varieties, in the following spring ;
the larger kinds will not flower until the second year.
The propagation by cuttings is performed by filling pots
of soil, as before directed, and covering the top with white
sand. The cuttings may be taken from the plant at a time
when the young wood is grown an inch or two long, which
will generally be in the month of September. They are to
be taken off at a joint, the lower leaves taken off with a sharp
pair of scissors, and the cuttings neatly pricked into the sand,
and covered with a bell-glass ; the bell-glass must be regu-
larly taken off every day, and rubbed dry with a cloth, in
order to remove any moisture, and prevent their being damped
off. When they are well rooted, they are to be potted off, in
small pots, as recommended for seedlings.
AHT. 3. — Descriptive List of Ericas.
Those marked thus t are to be found in most collections, and seed freely.
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color.
Height.
Time of flowering.
ERICA.
HEATH.
•f-grandiflora
great-flowered
Yellow
3 ft. May, Sept.
•{•cruenta
bloody-flowered
Dark red
2
May, Sept.
ignescens
fiery
Red
1^
March, June.
-ftubiflora
tube-flowered
Pink
2
April, July.
Hibbertk
Hibbert's
O. yellow
2
June, Sept.
fcolorans
veridis
coloring
green-flowered
W.red
D. green
2
2
April, June.
May, Sept.
Massoni
Masson's
R. green
3
July, Oct.
•{-bicolor
two-colored
G. red
2
March, Oct.
fventricosa
Porcelain
Fleshed
1
April, Sept.
Aitonia
Aiton's
W. purple
2
June, Sept.
fbaccans
Arbutus-leaved
Purple
2
April, June.
biflora
two-flowered
White
1
April, June.
fardens
glowing
Scarlet
2
April, June.
farborea
tree
White
4
Feb., June.
rubens
red-flowered
Dark red
1
June, Sept.
•j-gracilis
slender
White
1
Feb., June.
ipersoluta
garland
Purple
11
Feb., May.
[australis
Spanish
Purple
I
March, July.
ERICA, AZALEA, AND RHODODENDRON.
173
Botanical Name.
English Name.
Color.
Height.
Time of flowering.
fMediterranea
Mediterranean
Purple
4ft.
Feb., May.
vagans
Cornish
Red
1
July, Aug.
formosa
beautiful
Red
2
June, Sept.
fpubescens
pale-downy
Purple
H
Feb., Dec.
fconcinna
blush
Flesh color
2
Sept, Oct.
coccinea
scarlet-flowered
D. red -
ij
Jan., Sept
Leeana
Lee's
O. yellow
2
Jan., August
blanda
jUliffordia
charming
Lady Clifford's
L. purple
White
1
1
April, Sept.
April, May.
elegans
elegant
Green
1
March, Nov.
triflora
three-flowered
White
1
May, June.
rubella
thrift-flowered
Pink
2
June.
floribunda
many-flowered
Purple
1
May, June.
imbricata
imbricated
Pink
1
May, Aug.
ART. 2 — On the Culture of the Azalea.
The Azalea, like the Erica, is a favorite plant in the green-
house, and requires nearly the same treatment. It seeds
freely, and is readily cultivated from the seed ; and many
very splendid new varieties have of late years been raised in
this manner, by hybridizing one variety with another. It is
certainly one of the best families of flowers we are at present
acquainted with ; for, besides all the splendid Chinese varie-
ties cultivated in the green-house, there are several beautiful
hardy kinds, natives of Turkey, and over seventy varieties
indigenous to North America, that inhabit swamps and dry
places, which are found growing in all the eastern States, and
are known by the name of the American Honeysuckle.
The Azalea thrives well in a dry, sandy, peat earth, and,
when this is not to be found, a compost made of about two-
thirds sandy loam, taken from a dry spot, beside of a wood, witli
a portion of well decomposed leaf mould, and a little charcoal
dust, will answer well enough. A very great error is often
made by those unacquainted with the culture of this plant, by
collecting black, boggy earth from low places, which often
contains a quantity of the oxide of iron, and other mineral
qualities, highly detrimental to this class of plants ; besides,
such earth is often sour, owing to its being saturated with
water, than which nothing can be more detrimental to the
P2
174 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
growth of the Azalea, which delights to grow in a sweet, dry
soil. When grown in the first named manner, the plants
have a yellow, sickly appearance, and the leaves drop off the
plants, a sure indication of their being in a bad state of health.
Saving the seed. — The seed may be sown in pots or pans
of peat earth, when ripe, in the fall, and kept in the green-
house during winter. The plants will generally make their
appearance in the spring ; in the following season, they may
be potted off in small pots, and treated in every way the same
as the flowering plants. It may also be propagated by layer-
ing down the young shoots in the spring, either in the pots or
in a frame purposely adapted for the business; they will
mostly be rooted in the fall, and may be taken from the mo-
ther plant and potted off in the proper compost, as before
directed. To this may be added, the striking of cuttings,
which may be taken off about the latter end of July, or the
beginning of August; as soon as the young wood is ripe is
the proper time. They will be well rooted in the fall, and
may be potted off in the following spring.
The best time for repotting the flowering plants of the
Azalea is in the spring, when the plants have done flowering ;
care should be taken to give plenty of drainage, so that the
plants are not saturated by watering, which is injurious to
them. They should be well potted, and the surface of the
ball be a little below the top of the pot, so that it may be a
little dishing, and receive the benefit of watering. When the
plants are in a growing state, they should be abundantly wa-
tered, and kept in a free growing state ; when the weather is
sufficiently warm, they should be either plunged in the
ground, in their pots, or placed in a frame, in a shady loca-
tion, to remain during the summer; and in the fall, they may
be again taken into the green-house with the other green-
house plants.
ERICA, AZALEA, AND RHODODENDRON.
Descriptive List of Azaleas.
Name. Description. Name. Descriptior
AZALEA INDICA. CHIXESE RED-FLOWERING AZALEA.
175
Copeii
Danielsana
elegans
Gillinghamia
hybrida
ignescens
lateritia
white,
large rose,
clear pale red.
light purple,
large lilac.
Powellii
Salmo tincta
Cambelii
fimbriata alba
Danielsiana hy-
brida pale red.
" concessa fine.
Phoenicea
superba
rubra pleno
lilac,profusely spot'd speciosa
very br. red, profuse, j
salmon color, pro- speciosissima
[fuse flowering.
salmon color, large, splendens
Campbell'
fringed white.
concolor
neriiflora
macrantha
magniflora
nova blanc
beautiful,
oleander-flowered,
large white often se-i
large rosy purple,
[very profuse,
bluish purple,
pale pur., dark spots,
d'bl. red, large flower
very large rosy pink,
[profuse.
very large cherry red,
[profuse,
large salmon.
Smithii coccinea Smith's scarlet
variegata rose and red margin-
fed, or var. with
[white, superb.
CremerijFeasl's superb.
Mount blanc,
Feast's beautiful, new,white
Phffinicia alba
[mi-double. Gladstenesii
large purple. coccinea nova
white, with greenish ;rosea
[spots.)
very large, white,
new white,
new scarlet,
very large, rosy, pur-
[ple, fine.
ART. 3. — On the Culture of the Rhododendron.
The Rhododendron is very nearly allied to the Azalea, and
requires nearly the same treatment, with the difference that
it does not strike so readily by cuttings, and is therefore gen-
erally increased by layers, and sometimes the finer varieties
are grafted on the common kinds to a good purpose. The
growing of seedlings, potting, and repotting, is the same as
the Azalea, with the exception that the Rhododendron is a
larger growing plant, and consequently requires larger pots
to grow it to perfection.
The plants are quite hardy in the green-house, and require
to be placed in a good, dry, airy place to thrive well. In the
summer they may be either plunged in the ground, in the
pots, or placed in a shady situation, as they do not bear the
extreme heat of the summers in this country, which retards
their growth and prevents their setting off buds freely in the
proper season.
176
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Descriptive List of Rhododendrons.
Name. Color.
RHODODENDRON.
Name.
Color.
arborea
crimson Chinese.
Russellianum rosy crimson.
album
white Chinese.
Smithii dark red.
altaclarense
deep crimson.
venustum bright rosy red.
Cunninghamii
rosy purple.
multiflorum profuse flowered.
fimbriatum
fringed white
Sir J. Brought on dark red.
gloriosa
rich crimson.
spectable fine rose.
hybridum
rosy purple.
Nobleanum fine rosy crimson,
purpureum
picbim
violet purple, [son.
blush spotted crim-
[changing to white,
cinnamonum white, spotted with
[red.
CHAPTER VI.
On the Culture of the Cactus and Succulent Plants.
ART. 1. — Culture of the Cactus.
MOST of the different varieties of the Cactus are natives
either of the West Indies or South America, where the primi-
tive kinds are found growing on, and in the chasms of rocks,
and on old dead wood, where they often subsist for months
without water. Indeed, there are few tribes of plants that
will live and endure so long a period of drought as the Cac-
tus and its natural families of the JHoe, and those plants
which are denominated succulents, — as nature seems to have
designed them to endure a recess of moisture, by their organi-
zation ; being of a fat, fleshy texture, covered with a thick,
tough, leather-like coat or bark, which does not respire, or at
least admit of respiration so freely as deciduous plants ; and
hence, the plants being full of sap, or perhaps more properly
a superfluous fluid, intended as a reservoir to sustain them
when exigencies (as a long drought) require such provision ;
without which they could not subsist.
The mode of cultivation is to obtain new varieties by
seed and cross impregnation, by mixing the pollen of one
variety with another, by which the beautiful varieties of
Jenkinsonii, JJckermanii, Longworthiana, and many others
CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 177
(bearing the personal names of the lovers of the tribe) have
been produced. The general mode of propagation adopted
is, by cuttings of the leaf or stem of the plant, which in the
spedosa, Jenkinsonii, and those kinds having joints, are cut
at the joint; but those kinds which have long spaces between
the joints, as the speciosissima, cylindricus, and the like tall
growing kinds, may be cut into short pieces at the eye or
bud. The preparing the cuttings of the Cactus is something
different from almost any other kinds of plants.
The cuttings of the Cactus require to be laid on a dry
shelf, previous to being inserted, so that the wound may be
contracted and dried up. This treatment is necessary to all
kinds of succulent plants, to avoid their rotting off at the
wound. The cuttings being thus prepared, and the wound
thoroughly dried up, (which will be in a week or ten days
after their preparation,) they may be put into pots or pans
of sand, in the usual manner of putting in cuttings.
The cuttings being potted, they may be placed over the
flue, or in any dry, warm part of the house, and slightly
syringed of a fine sunny morning, or of an evening when the
fire-heat is sufficient to dry the leaf in a short time ; water
lying long on the leaves in this process, in many cases rots
the entire cutting ; and most generally, at all events, it decays
close to the surface of the soil in the pot. When the cut-
tings begin to root they may be moderately watered, and
when sufficiently rooted, potted off in the following manner,
for flowering plants.
The best compost for potting the cuttings or young plants
of Cactus that I am acquainted wilh, is about two parts of
decomposed leaf mould, three or four years old, with the
remainder mellow loam and a good portion of sand and some
fine bone dust and charcoal beaten fine. The method of
potting is to prepare a quantity of well-broken potsherd?,
beaten very fine, which are to be put at the bottom of the
pot, about an inch thick ; the soil is then to be used by pla-
cing it lightly in the pots until they are about three-fourths
178 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
full; the plants are then to be taken gently from the pots
with a sharp pointed stick, then to be placed on the sur-
face, the roots spread in a regular manner, and earth closed
over them sufficient to cover them to a proper depth. Af-
ter potting off, two or three shiftings are required in this
tribe of plants, as in most others, when the pots are full of
roots.
Mode of Culture. — The culture of the Cactus has been
very much improved within a few years; indeed, the system
has been entirely reversed from the former method of grow-
ing it in a dry, harsh, sandy soil or compost, to that of a
light, rich soil, that shall be porous enough, with drainage to
let off the superfluous water before it saturates and rots the
roots, or the stem just above the surface of the soil ; — hence,
by the improved mode, this tribe of plants is grown and
flowered in as good a manner and as large plants in one year
as was formerly done in three or four. The present mode,
then, consists in keeping the plants in a healthy growing state
from the time they are first rooted as a cutting, until they are
large enough for flowering plants ; when a different process
is taken, to check the flow of sap and growth of the plant,
in order to set the buds thickly on the leaves.
The watering may be done with the Cactus as with other
plants, when in a growing state, namely : — whenever the
earth is dry in the pots, it may be moderately refreshed with
water, but care must be taken to do so in such a degree that
the earth shall not be saturated so as to be always moist,
and thus rot off the plant, as before hinted. In every other
department of culture, the Cactus requires good treatment
until it is grown to a sufficient size for flowering, when an
entirely different treatment may be given it. In the fall the
plants intended for flowering may be placed on dry shelves
in the green-house, where they are to remain, with a small
portion of water, in order to set the flower buds in a firm
manner. The plants are to remain in this state until New
Year's, when they are again to be taken into a warmer place,
CULTURE OF THE CACTUS. 179
and treated in every manner as before directed for growing
plants.
That a tribe of plants possessing the various traits of foli-
age, flowers, &c., that are natural to the Cactus, will at some
future period engage much of the attention of the amateur
and lover of flowers, cannot be doubted ; for although in
regard to appearance of foliage they cannot be said to vie
with the Camellia, yet there is a beautiful natural order in
their nerves, and the spines or armature with which nature
has endowed this family of plants, to guard against the in-
trusion of animals and other invaders, that most generally,
when once made acquainted with their prickly coats, induce
them to be careful how they again come in contact with so
formidable a tribe of the vegetable kingdom.
Grafting the Cactus. — The engrafting of the weaker
kinds of the Cactus on the grosser growing ones, is now
becoming general among amateurs, as that of engrafting the
truncatiis on the t riangularis ; the Jenkinsonii, May-fly,
and fine varieties of the Epiphyllum on the Opuntia micro-
dasys ; and the fine varieties of Cereus on the Cereus cylin-
dricus. The Cactus Periakia is also an excellent stock for
many kinds of Cactus, as the Epiphyllums, and some of the
lesser varieties of the Cereus. In grafting Cactus, one prin-
cipal object should be borne in mind to do the thing to per-
fection, namely, that the graft is to be improved in growth
and magnitude by the stock; as for instance, the Cactus trun-
catus being engrafted on the Iriangularis, forms a most
superb plant when fully grown. I saw some ten or a dozen
plants of this kind last year, at the green-house of Mr. Long-
worth, under the management of Mr. Sleath, of this place,
truly beautiful ; each plant formed a beautiful head trained in
a circular form, with pendulous branches, loaded with some
two hundred flowers each, and this in the winter, at a time
when few other plants were in flower. Such specimens
contrasted with the Echinocactus Eyriessii, or Turk's cap,
stuck on the stem of the Periskia aculeata, or Barbadoes
180 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
gooseberry, with the appearance of a drum-slick, for novelty's
sake, is the best specimen I can give of such incongruities.
The operation is performed in various ways, as by taking
off the top of the cylindricus and tall growing kinds, and
making an incision in the top with the point of a sharp knife,
downwards in the centre. The graft is then prepared by
cutting it off at a joint, and paring off each side of the bark in
the form of a wedge. The. graft is then inserted in the in-
cision and closed up with wax, tallow, or other pliable sub-
stance, to keep out the wet and air from the part where the
scion and stalk are united. The Opuntia are grafted by
cutting the top of the stock downwards in a transverse
section; then cutting the graft in the form of a wedge, and
inserting in the same manner as wedge grafting of fruit trees.
These grafts are generally confined in their places by running
through the stock and graft with the prickle of the stock, or
a sharp pin made of wood, &c.
Culture of the Cactus in Rooms. — The Cactus does ad-
mirably well in the parlor or warm dry rooms, dry heat
agreeing better with it than almost any other tribe of plants ;
but care must be taken that they are not allowed to be frozen,
which is injurious to the tender kinds.
The management is simply this. In the winter months,
keep the earth moderately dry, and at no time over-water
them, as this is the season for them to lie dormant and form
their flower-buds. When the spring advances, about the
first weeks in March more water may be applied, and the
roots kept moderately moist, but not too wet. The situation
chosen should be where they may receive a full share of the
sun, and if possible in the warmest part of the room. The
guide given for the green-house, will answer, in every par-
ticular, for the parlor.
In selecting a List of Cactus, I have chosen those which are
free flowering varieties, and will answer well for rooms.
The height and time of flowering has been omitted, as most
of the Cactae are dwarf growing kinds, except those of the
CULTURE OF THE CACTUS.
181
hexanglaris, and the like tall varieties, which are kept in
some collections merely as varieties. The object of this list
is to give the best flowering varieties ; it has therefore been
selected accordingly.
Botanical Name. English Name
CACTUS CEREUS.
Color.
cylindricus
cylinder like
Cagelliformis
creeping cereus
pink.
triangularis
triangular
white, fine for stocks.
grandiflora
night-blooming
creamy white.
Scottii
Scott's
scarlet and purple.
Scottii violacea
new
violet.
speciosissimus
most showy
crimson purple.
Mallisonia
scarlet
coccineus
triangled
scarlet
Smithianus
Smith's
superb flower.
CACTUS EPIPHYLLUM.
truncatum
winter-blooming
pink.
Ackermanii
crimson
crimson.
Russellianum
Russell's
fine purple.
May-fly
very bright shaded.
Spangii
profuse flowering
red.
speciosum major
superb
large pink.
coccineus
triangular
scarlet
Smithianus
superb flower
Jenkinsonii
Jenkinson's
crimson.
Longworthiana
Longworth's
fine scarlet
violaceum
white, edged with purple.
formosissima
beautiful
rosy purple.
roseum
bright rose
Grahamii
rosy violet
Chalmerii
Chalmer's
bright scarlet
CACTUS OPUNTIA, INDIAN FIG.
microdasys brown spined
dicipins various
fragilis brittle
lactae spina white spined
CACTUS PERISKIA.
longispina long spined.
aculeata Barbadoes gooseberry.
CACTUS MAMMILEARIA.
stellata
rubra
decora
simplex
discolor
pyramid alia
starry.
red spined.
neat nipple.
close.
two colored.
pyramidal.
Q
182
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Botanical Name. English Name.
CACTUS ECHINOCACTUS.
Eyriessii Turk's cap.
rubra spina red spined.
amabilis neat headed.
ART. 2. — Culture of the Aloe and various Succulents.
The Aloe requires the same treatment as the Cactus, with
the difference that they do not require so much water, and
their treatment is regular, that is to say, they do not require
at one time to be kept very dry, and at another to be more
abundantly watered in order to make them flower ; indeed
the flowers are not the most beautiful, but it is the foliage
these plants are cultivated for, as the partridge breasted, lizard
tail, tongue, &c., which are represented in their leaves.
These plants are propagated by taking off the young side
shoots as they appear on the mother plant, and potting them
in the same manner as their parent. To this class may be
added the Mesembryanthemums, Stapelias, and many other
succulents, which are all propagated by cuttings, and require
a dry place in the green-house, and but moderate watering.
I herewith append a List of some of the most generally
known varieties.
Name.
Description.
AGAVE.
Americana
great American aloe.
variegata
stripe leaved aloe.
ALOE.
Socotrina
Socotrine
ferox
hedgehog
arborescens
tree.
obscura
great soap.
variegata
partridge breast.
obliqua
tongue
plicatile
fan
verrucosa
pearl.
margaritifera
great pearl.
CRASSULA.
coccinea
scarlet flowered.
versicolor
various colored.
imbricate
whip cord.
Name. Description.
MESEMBRYANTHEMUM.
grandiflorum great flowered.
californium
barbatum
tigrinum
minima.
tupinum.
lacerum
ROCHEA.
falcata
perfoliata
STAPELIA.
ambigua v. fulva brown flowered.
asterius star-fish flowered.
grandiflora large flowered.
variegate variegated.
yellow,
scarlet,
toothed.
toothed.
seckel leaved,
perfoliate leaved.
CHAPTER VII.
On Potting and Repotting Plants.
ART. 1. — Potting Green-house Plants.
[The following directions for potting green-house plants
are equally applicable to hardy plants, &c.]
POTTING green-house plants is mostly done a short time
previous to taking the plants into the house, which is gene-
rally the beginning or middle of September. In performing
this business, the first thing to be attended to is the procuring of
clean pots, compost, &c., to be used. The compost that will
answer most plants, consists of about two-thirds of good mel-
low loam, taken from the top sod of a pasture, or other place
where sheep, oxen, or other animals have lain and enriched
it : this should be taken off about three inches deep, and laid
in a heap some time, in order that it may rot and incorporate
together. The loam may be mixed with one-third of well
rotted leaf mould, or other rich old manure, that will mix and
incorporate with the loam; — if the loam is not of a sandy
quality, a little sand may be applied, in order to give a little
drainage to the plants to be potted in it. For some families
of plants, as the Erica, Diosma, &c., a black peaty, or bog
earth, is the most proper, and must be obtained from the
sides of woods, natural bogs, &c.
Having the soil prepared, the potting may be commenced
by carefully turning the plants out of the pots, and paring off
with a sharp knife part of the roots matted around the ball.
This done, select a pot of a size to allow some fresh compost
to be put into the bottom and side; then pot the plant thus: —
lay a few pieces of pots, or other crockery, at the bottom of
the pot, to act as a drainage ; place two or three inches of the
compost over the crockery, in the bottom of the pot, and then
place the plant with the ball in the centre of it, filling the sides
183
184 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
between the pot and ball with compost, when the pot may
have a gentle shake with the hands, to settle the earth about
the ball and the roots of the plants. The plants may then
have a gentle watering, and be placed where they are to re-
main until they are taken into the green-house.
ART. 2. — Potting of Plants taken from the Ground.
The beginning of September is the best time to take from
the ground and pot such plants as are intended to be taken
into the green-house or rooms. In performing this business,
the plants must be taken as carefully as possible from the
ground, with a portion of earth about their roots, and potted
in the same manner as directed above ; but their treatment
requires to be something different, by placing them in a shady
situation after being potted, in order that they may root more
freely into the new soil that they are potted in. When the
plants begin to make new roots into the fresh soil, they are
to be divested of any dead leaves that may be about them, and
more exposed to the sun, previous to their being removed to
the green-house or rooms.
AKT. 3. — Potting of young Plants from Cuttings.
All kinds of young plants, as Geraniums, Roses, and the
like, propagated from cuttings, should be potted in small pots
as soon as they are well rooted. Having your compost and
pots (which should always be small for this purpose) pre-
pared, commence the business by carefully turning out the
cuttings, with the ball of earth entire; when the plants may
be divided, with as much earth as possible about their fibres,
and potted in the same manner as directed for the above.
The plants when potted off, should be placed in a frame,
where their rooting freely into the soil in the pots may be
facilitated, by covering them when the sun shines strongly on
them. If a frame is not at hand, the plants may be placed in
a shady situation until they are well rooted.
CHAPTER VIII.
On the Management of Cut Flowers, Plants in Rooms, and
Bulbs in Pots and Water Glasses.
ART. I.— Cut Flowers.
IT being now an almost universal practice to have cut
flowers in rooms, as natural ornaments, some hints relative
to the management of them may perhaps be of service to
their fair patrons. To preserve cut flowers, such as the
Dahlia, and succulent kinds, in a fresh manner, and to keep
them from wilting and fading in summer, they should be im-
mediately immersed in clean water when cut from the plant;
by this means, the pores will be filled with water, and
exhaustion prevented, and, consequently, the flowers will
remain in a fresh state.
Packing cut flowers. — In packing cut flowers to go some
distance in the winter season, I recommend to put them in a
wooden box, of a size corresponding to the quantity to be
packed, the inside of the box to be lined with cotton wool,
and the flowers to be laid loosely in the box, beginning at the
bottom with the hardiest kinds, placing them in such a man-
ner, that the flowers are upwards, and that the leaves inter-
sect them ; arranging the whole, so that one part will spring
lightly on the other, in case of a sudden jerk in travelling :
in this manner, proceed with the whole to the top, which
cover with a lid lined with cotton wool like the sides. In
this mode of packing, the wool serves to keep out the cold,
and gives way to the flowers that press it, without bruising or
injuring them.
For the preserving of flowers in rooms, I extract the fol-
lowing from Sweet's Hot-house Manual, which is the only
article on this subject I have seen in print, and the best me-
thod I can recommend. He says :
16 185 Q2
186 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
"Many persons have expressed a wish to be acquainted
with the best method of preserving cut flowers for a length
of time in water; this we have never seen satisfactorily ex-
plained, though it is a very simple question: the only method
we have seen adverted to, is to frequently change the water ;
this of itself is scarcely of any essential benefit : the only
method is to cut off half an inch or an inch of the stem that
has been in the water, according to the length of it ; this will
again open the pores that have become closed with glutinous
matter, that has exuded from the stem when first cut, and the
pores being stopt, very often before the stem is placed in the
water, frequently occasions rapid withering: by cutting the
bottom of the stem, the moisture immediately begins to flow
upwards, and the branch soon recovers its vigor : the stems
of flowers are also frequently kept in water until the bottom
begins to rot and decay ; those, if cut above that, will also
recover again, and when placed in fresh water will frequently
continue fresh for some time afterwards. Flowers bought in
shops and markets, are often dried at the bottom, before re-
stored again to the water; the bottoms of the stems of these
should therefore be always cut before immersed in water
again. Specimens of plants coming from a long distance are
frequently much withered when they arrive; they should
therefore be enclosed at the bottom with wet moss, tied round
them before they are packed in a box or basket; we have
frequently had them arrive much withered, and find the best
way of recovering them to cut the bottom of the stem or
brancli, and place their ends in about an inch of water in the
bottom of a large bread pan, or some such vessel, and sprinkle
a little water on their leaves, and they will in general be all
fresh in the morning : the vessel must be covered close with
a wooden, or other cover, that fits close, and excludes the
air."
CUT FLOWERS, PLANTS, AND BULBS. 187
ART. 2. — Plants in Rooms.
In order to be as explicit as possible on the management
of plants in rooms, I refer the reader to the first part of this
book, and request him to peruse carefully the articles on the
food of plants, and the necessary stimulants, as heat, light,
air, &c., with the remarks on the bud, the root, and the leaf:
which will give some useful hints on the tendency of plants
to the presence of such natural food and stimulants as contri-
bute to their health and well being.
After a careful reading of those articles, it will be seen that
the management of plants in rooms is not so difficult a task as
is generally supposed, and that much of the assiduous atten-
tion paid to them is more conducive to their sickness than to
their health and vigor.
In most cases, plants are taken into rooms at an early part
of the autumn on the approach of the frost, and are subjected
to a sudden and injurious change of air, temperature and
treatment. From receiving what nature bestowed upon them,
as the dew, the sun, and air, they at once become the objects
of the tender and diligent attention of their fair cultivators,
who foster them in a close room, watering them frequently at
a time when they require to be hardened, to withstand the
severity of the coming winter. Under this management, the
natural growth and quality of the plant is reversed, by its be-
ing forced into a weak, slender habit and constitution, and
the consequence is, that having put forth its vigor at a time
unnatural to vegetation, its property is partly exhausted, and
a weakness ensues, from which it cannot possibly recover till
its whole system undergoes a renovation, which will take a
year at least, and in some cases, the plants never can be
brought again to their proper healthy state.
Management of the plants. — Previous to the plants being
brought into the room, they should be divested of any dead
leaves, repotted and cleaned, as directed under the head of
green-house plants, in the green-house department.
Much of the health and thriftiness of the plants will depend
188 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
on their being so situated, that they can enjoy the light from
a window, and if in a situation to receive the morning and
mid-day sun the better. The best manner of arranging them
is on a semicircular stage, with running casters to it, by
which it can be moved to any part of the room at pleasure;
and as light will have no beneficial effect on plants at night,
the stage may be removed to any part of the room most con-
venient, and corresponding to their nature. The dimensions
and construction of the stage should be in proportion to the
size of the window, and should be so made that the lower
shelf is on a level with the bottom of the window, in order
that the plants placed on it may receive the light. The plants
should be placed on the stage in such a manner, that they can
all receive the light from the window. They should often be
turned, as all plants always incline to the light, and being re-
versed they reverse their position also, and hence they are by
this method kept in handsome form, and every part of them
will have an equal share of vigor.
Every opportunity should be taken to let in fresh air to the
room ; this may be done through the window, in fine, soft
weather. So essential is fresh air to plants, that the least
possible quantity let in mixes with the impure air and greatly
rectifies it, and, of course, the more pure the air, the more
healthy is the plant. Indeed, cleanliness and wholesome air
are the two principal things to be attended to in this case.
Watering plants is by many persons considered as a very
difficult point in growing plants in rooms ; however, a few
practical hints on the subject will, I think, so simplify it,
that any person may water plants with the greatest advantage.
The rule is, that all plants indicate when water is necessary
to be applied, by their drying the earth in the pots. If the
plants suffer for the want of proper moisture, they lose their
leaves, and become infested with scaly insects, red spiders,
&c., (for a more particular notice of which, see the article on
Insects, page 124.) On the other hand, when they are over-
watered, the earth in the pots continues in a moist state, and,
CUT FLOWERS, PLANTS, AND BULBS. 189 .
from the effect of saturation, often sours, which is very inju-
rious to the plants. Most kinds of fleshy plants, as the Cac-
tus, Aloes, and the like, require but little water in the winter.
Camellias, and hardy evergreens, require but little water in
the winter months, and more when the flowering season
comes on. Most plants in a growing state require to be often
watered ; but, at the same time, they should be as much as
possible situated so as to receive the atmospheric air; and it
should be at all times a consideration, to allow plants to grow
as little as possible in rooms, or in a confined situation.
AUT. 3.— Growing Bulbous rooted Plants for Rooms.
In the latter part of November, a compost of mellow loam
mixed with a little sand and leaf mould, may be prepared for
potting such bulbs as Hyacinths, Narcissus, and those kinds
required to be grown in rooms. The pots may be filled with
the above compost, and the bulb placed in the centre, by
pressing it down in the earth, so that its crown is level with
the earth ; the pots must now be placed in a situation where
they do not receive much light, as bulbs always strike root
much better in darkness than when fully exposed to the light.
Little water will be required to be given until the bulbs begin
to grow, when the watering may be gradually increased as
they increase in height, and when the flowers show they
may be copiously watered. When the plants have done
flowering, they may be placed in the ground as soon as the
weather will admit, to renovate their strength.
ART. 4. — Growing Bulbs in Glasses.
Hyacinths and Narcissus may be grown to good advantage
in glasses, in rooms. The best time to commence this busi-
ness is in November : the glasses may be filled with clear
water, and the bulbs placed in them ; they should then be
placed in a light, airy room, where the temperature of air is
moderate, in order to start them in a vigorous manner ; as
often when they are placed where they are started into
190 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
growth too rapidly they are drawn very weak and flower
badly. In the process of growing bulbs, the water should be
changed every three or four days, and the fibrous roots rinsed
in clean water, as any putrid substance or impure matter, that
either collects about them or is in the water, is likely to injure
them in the process.
If the weather is mild when the flowering is over, they
may be managed like those in pots, by planting them in the
flower beds, to regain their vigor.
CHAPTER IX.
Miscellaneous Tender Plants.
ART. 1. — Tender Green-house Plants for Winter Flowering and Planting
in the Flower Garden.
THERE are several families of green-house plants that may
be yearly renewed, and planted in the borders for summer
flowering, that are not considered as important standard
plants grown for the purpose of remaining several years, as
the Camellia, &c.
The method adopted for this purpose is either to strike the
cuttings in the summer or fall, and let them remain and flower
in the green-house, and turn them out in the flower border in
the spring ; or to strike them early in the spring and plant
them out so soon as the weather will permit.
The Heliotrope is one of these plants, and it should be
propagated in July, when it will strike freely from the young
wood. When well rooted, the cuttings may be potted off
into small pots and placed in a shady place and well attended
until fall, when they are to be shifted into another size of
pots and placed in the green-house for winter flowering, and
in the spring they may be planted in the flower borders,
MISCELLANEOUS TENDER PLANTS. 191
where they will flower freely during the summer. These
plants should never be stopped, but the branches be allowed
to grow their full length and form their flower buds in the
fall, before they are taken into the green-house.
The Eupatorium elegans and E. ccelistinum are pretty
plants for winter flowering, and should be cultivated precisely
the same as the Heliotrope, and turned out in the borders in
the spring; but they do not flower so profusely in the sum-
mer, although their flowers in the winter will pay for the
trouble.
Justica speciosa, are delightful winter flowering plants.
With these all the tender kinds of Salvia, as Salvia splen-
dens, and its varieties are also desirable plants. These should
be propagated in the fall and well established in the pots for
winter flowering.
The Lantana mittabilis, and all its varieties, are also
pretty varieties of summer flowering plants, and cuttings of
every variety should be propagated in the fall for the purpose
of planting out in the spring.
The Cineraria is also a pretty family of flowering tender
plants, that may be either propagated by sowing the seed of
the finer varieties in the fall, and potting them in rich com-
post, or they may be propagated by dividing the roots about
the first of January, when they will make fine flowering
plants in a few weeks.
The Fuchsia, or Ladies' Ear Drop, is also deserving more
general cultivation than it receives. In many parts of Europe
it is now becoming the belle ideal of parterres, in the summer,
where it is cultivated to great perfection, and several of the
new varieties are highly deserving a trial in this country.
The cuttings may be propagated in the spring, and turned
out in a bed of good rich earth about the middle of May, to
flower during the summer.
The Erythrina crista galli, or the Coral plant, and its
varieties, is also a beautiful tribe of plants for the flower
garden in the summer. The roots are tender, tuberous, and
192
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
require precisely the same winter treatment as the Dahlia,
and of course must be taken up before the frost. In the
spring, the old roots make several young shoots from the
crown, which may be propagated and managed as directed
for the Dahlia; which see, under that head.
Running Vines, as the Maurandya Barclayana, and
several kinds of the Passiflora should also be propagated
either in the fall or spring by cuttings, and grown expressly
for growing in the flower garden during the summer. The
manner of propagating them is the same as other tender
plants.
In order to render the above subject interesting to lovers
of the flower garden, I have here appended a list of the best
varieties of plants adapted to the purpose.
Name. Color.
Name Color.
SAL VIA.
robusta dark red and pink.
fulgens fulgent flowering.
Stanwelliana red and purple.
involucrata pink.
coccinea major very large crimson.
splendens splendid sage,
patens blue, large flowering.
CINERARIA.
Kingii white, tipped with
elegans elegant. [purple.
Fair Helen light rose & scarlet,
red cross knight red, large and fine.
Desdemona flesh and ruby.
Eppsii red and purple.
Zenobia crimson & carmine.
Pride of Peckham.
splendens splendid.
Hendersonii large rosy purple.
Paragon crimson and purple.
I3ciutloiii lursrc red*
floribunda profuse purple.
Audot
coerulea blue,
triumphans superb blue.
arborea conspicua blush & scarlet.
ERYTHRINA.
T'TTDfTSTA
f UV^JlOlrV.
Chauvierii crimson and red.
Exoniensis large crims. & pur.
Venus Victrix white and purple,
elegans superba large red.
Laneii (Lane's) crims., large & fine.
herbacea herbaceous coral tree,
crista galli cockscomb,
caffra purple,
princeps large scarlet.
PASSIFLORA.
Frostii rosy crimson, fine.
princeps fine passion flower.
tricolor green, rose & white.
hybrida hybrid.
Enchantress rose and blush.
coerulea blue.
Williamsonii crimson and purple.
alata winged-leaved.
Monnypennii crimson and purple.
edulis eatable-fruited.
majestica large bright red.
gigantea large, free and fine.
racemosa
fragrans sweet-scented.
MISCELLANEOUS TENDER PLANTS.
193
ART. 2. — Annuals and Biennials.
There are many kinds of annuals and biennials that are
highly deserving the attention of the amateur, for winter and
spring flowering in the green-house ; the sweet-scented Mig-
nonette is one of these, and there are several varieties of
stocks of the annual and biennial kinds which will be enu-
merated in the list to follow. Those of the tender kinds are
the best for the green-house ; and the seed may be sown in
pots, early in the fall, and placed in the front of the green-
house, where they will flower, if properly managed in the
winter and the spring. If a succession is wanted of the an-
nuals, a second sowing may be made about the beginning of
February, to succeed those sown in the fall. The biennials
will require the same treatment as other plants in the house.
ART. 3. — Descriptive List of Annual Flowers.
[Those marked thus * are climbing plants ; those marked thus § are de-
licate annuals, and should be sown in hot-beds hi March, and transplanted
into the open ground the end of May, or beginning of June.]
English Name.
Botanical Name.
Height.
Color.
Mexican Ageratum
Ageratum mexicanum
1£ ft.
Blue.
Sweet Alyssum
Alyssum maritinum
1
White,
Aster White
Aster hortensis fl. alba
1A
White.
« Red
var. fl. rubro
JA
Red.
« Lilac
var. fl. carnea
JA
Lilac,
" Red striped
var. fl. obscura
H
Striped.
" Purple striped
var. fl. striata
H
Striped.
« Quilled red
superba rubro
i*
Red.
§Blue Amethyst
Browaliia elata
i
Blue.
§ White
alba
i
White.
Venus' Looking Glass
Campanula speculum
i
Purple.
Great American Centaurea
Centaurea atnericana
2
Pink.
Yellow Chrysanthemum
Chysanthemum fl. lutea
2
Yellow.
White
coronaria
2
White.
Beautiful Clarkea
Clarkea pulchella
2
Purple.
Dwarf Convolvulus
Convolvulus minor
1
Tricolor.
Blue Commelina
Commelina coelestis
2
Blue.
Elegant Coreopsis .
Coreopsis tinctoria
3
Yellow.
Drummond
Drummondi
Yellow.
Elegant Escholtzia
Escholtzia californica
1
Yellow.
Variegated Euphorbia
Branching Larkspur
Euphorbia variegata
Delphinium consolida
3
2
White.
Various.
Dwarf rocket
ajacis
1
Various.
Azure Blue Gilia
Gilia capitata
2
Blue.
17
R
-
194
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
English Name.
Double Balsams, mixed
Variegated
Pure white
Crimson
* Scarlet Morning Glory
* Cypress Vine
* White Sweet Peas
•Scarlet
•Striped
White Lupins
Portulaca
Petunia
Rose
Scarlet Malope
§Ice Plant
^Sensitive Plant
Trailing Nolana
Hybrid Evening Primrose
White
Lindley's
White Officinal Poppy
•Scarlet Flowering Bean
Sweet Scented Mignonette
Schizanthus
Double purple Jacobea
Double white
§ White Egg Plant
Vanilla scented Stevia
*§ Winged Thunbergia
•Great Nasturtium
Golden Eternal Flower
Botanical Name.
Height.
Color.
Impatiens balsamina
2ft.
Various.
variegata
2
Striped.
alba
2
White.
rubro
2
Red.
Ipomea coccinea
10
Scarlet
quamoclit
6
D. Red.
Lathurus alba
2
White.
fl. rosea
2
Scarlet.
fl. striata
2
Striped.
Lupin us albus
3
White.
Thellusonii
Fine scar.
nictagyna flora
Purple.
varius
2
Rose.
Malope trifida
2
Scarlet.
Mesembryanthemum
White.
Mimosa pudica
Pink.
Nolana prostrata
Blue.
CEnothera hybrida
Pink.
tetraptera
1
White.
lindleyii
1
P. White.
Papaver somniferum
4
White.
Phaseolus multiflorus
12
Scarlet.
Reseda odorata
1
Cream.
Schinzathus pinnatus
2
Various.
Senecio elegans
2
Purple.
fl. alba
2
White.
Solanum melongena
2
White.
Stevia serrata
1
White.
Thunbergia alata
4
Y. purple.
Tropaeolum majus
4
Orange.
Xeranthemum lucidum
3
Var.
Descriptive List of Biennial Flowers.
[Those marked thus § are delicate, and require to be housed in the
winter.]
English Name. Botanical Name.
Rose Champion Agrostemma coronaria
Dble. light blue Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris
Dark purple
§Wall Flower
Chinese Imperial
Sweet William
§ French Honeysuckle
Honesty, or Satin Flower
White Mallows
§ Persian Stock Gilliflower Mathiola odoratissima
§ Russian var.
§ White wall leafed alba
^Prussian purp.
fl. purpurea
Cheiranthus cheiri
chinensis
barbatus
Hedysarum coronarium
Lunar ia biennis
Malva fl. alba
Height.
2ft.
2
2
2
1
2
4
4
2
2
2
2
2
Color.
Red.
L. blue.
D. purple.
Var.
Red.
Var.
Scarlet
Purple.
White.
Var.
Var.
White.
Purple.
PROPAGATION OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
195
English Name.
§ Twickenham
§Scarlet
§ Queen
Purple Topped Clary
Botanical Name,
incana purp.
var. coccinea
var. alba
Salvia sclarea
Height.
2ft.
2
2
4
Color.
Purple.
Scarlet.
\Vhite.
L. blue.
CHAPTER X.
On t lie Propagation of Green-house Plants.
ART. 1. — On Grafting.
GRAFTING is performed in various ways, although the
principle is the same in each, which is to unite the inner
rind, or bark, of the scion, or graft, with that of the stock, in
such a manner, that the graft becomes a part of the stock, by
which it is fed and nourished, in precisely the same manner
as the bud, before spoken of.
Whip grafting. — The most common mode practised on
fruit trees is exemplified in the preceding cuts, which is per-
formed early in the spring, before vegetation takes place, or
the sap is in motion. The grafts, 1 and 2, are taken from
the tree of the last year's shoots, generally before the time of
grafting, about the latter end of February, and are kept in
earth in the cellar, or laid in, covered with earth, by the side
of a fence, or other sheltered place, to keep them fresh, and
from shrivelling, at time of grafting, which is just before the
sap rises. They are cut into three eyes, or buds, and pre-
pared, as shown in Fig. 1, by cutting half the side of the
graft off, in a slanting manner ; the stock is then prepared, by
taking off the head at a smooth place, and cutting a piece of
the bark and wood, in a slanting manner, upwards, as repre-
sented in Fig. 3, so that the graft will exactly^/; and that
the inner bark of the graft and stock meet in such a manner
that a union may take place when the sap rises, by the granu-
196
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Fig I.
Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
Fig. 4.
lating of the sap of the stock with that of the graft. The
graft is bound to its proper place, as seen in Fig. 4, with bass
matting, when it is covered with clay, or composition, to keep
out wet, sun, and air, from having any action on it until pro-
perly united, when the compost may be taken off, and the
bandage loosened, to allow the graft to swell. When this is
omitted, grafts are often much injured by the bandage cutting
through the bark, and they are often blown down in this con-
dition by the wind.
Cleft grafting is performed by cutting off the top of the
stock and splitting it down the centre, so as to admit the
graft, which is cut in the form of a wedge, and inserted in the
same manner as represented by Fig. 7. When inserted, it
must be bandaged, and treated in the same manner as recom-
mended for the whip graft.
PROPAGATION OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 197
Grafting tuberous roots is exemplified by the following
cuts, and is practised on the Paeony, of which Fig. 7, is a
specimen. It is performed by simply taking a graft from the
tree variety, cutting it into the form of a wedge, Fig. 5, when
a tuber from the herbaceous kind, Fig. 6 is prepared, by cut-
ting off the top, and preparing it for inserting the graft, as
seen in Fig. 7. The graft, when inserted, may be bandaged
and managed as before stated ; and the roots may be planted
in a pot, or in the ground, in order to cause them to grow^
when the graft will also make some progress in growth ; and
when united, must be unbandaged and treated the same as
before directed.
Fig. 5. Fig. 7. Fig. 6.
The Dahlia, and many tuberous rooted herbaceous plants,
may be propagated in this manner; and, indeed, the grafting
198 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
the roots of fruit trees and shrubs
is now becoming very general, and
will in a few years form a principal
item in the science of horticulture.
The work is generally performed
in this way in winter, and the roots
are grafted by the whip graft, and
planted out in the spring, in the
same manner as other nursery stock.
Grafting by the single eye is
Fig. 8. exemplified in Fig. 8, and is per-
formed on Camellias, and green-house evergreens. It is done
when the sap is beginning to rise, which is generally in Feb-
ruary, and is performed in the same manner as the cleft graft,
before spoken of, with the difference, that the plants should
be kept moist, and in a growing state, to assist a speedy
union ; they should also be excluded from the sun, which
dries the grafts and deters their uniting with
the stock.
Grafting by approach, or inarching,
may be represented by Fig. 9 ; which is
performed on evergreen plants, but more
especially the Camellia Japonica, which
the present cut represents as being grafted
by a side graft, with the end in a bottle of
water, to keep the sap in action in the graft
until it can unite. The difference of this
and the inarch is, that both the graft and
stock are kept on the stock until united.
The manner of doing it is to take two plants,
the one for the stock, and that to be inarched
from ; put them together in a place in the
green-house where they are to remain until
they are united ; proceed to place them so
that they can be made to come into con-
Fig. 9. tact, as seen in the opposite cut, supposing
PROPAGATION OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 199
the graft to be the top of the inarch; having placed them
together, cut off a thin slice of the stock upward, and an-
other from the graft where it is intended to be united, in
such a manner that when put together they make a complete
fit, by the rind of the graft and stock coming together on
each side. They are then to be carefully bound together,
covered, and treated in the same manner as before named ;
and when united the inarch or graft may be cut from the
mother plant, and the top from the stock, and placed in a
shady situation.
ART. 2. — Propagating Green-house Plants by Cuttings.
There are various methods of propagating green-house
plants by cuttings, although they all may be reduced to one
principle, viz. the taking the young shoot of the plant at a
joint, cutting it level just below
an eye or bud, cutting off one or
two of the under leaves, and pre-
paring it in such a manner as
described in Pig. 10, in order
that it forms a callus over the
wound, or cut part, from which,
when properly covered, pro-
trudes small fibrous roots, which
finally make a young plant, and
is to be potted and treated in
the same manner as the parent.
Cuttings may be divided into t\vo classes — soft wooded
and hard wooded ; the former are exemplified in the Gera-
nium, Rose, Verbena, &c.; the latter in the Camellia, Laures-
tina, and most evergreens. The time of taking cuttings from
the plant is generally when the young shoots, which are the
ones to be selected, are well ripened, which often happens
soon after the plant has done flowering; but almost any sea-
son when sufficient heat can be applied will answer. The me-
thod of performing the business is to take off the young wood
200
THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
two or three inches long, as re-
presented in Fig. 10, being care-
ful to cut it at a joint, from which
a callus is formed, and the roots
will emanate, as described in
Fig. 11. The cuttings being
thus prepared, proceed to pot
them in moderate sized pots,
well drained with broken pots,
broken bricks, or any coarse
substance that will drain off
the water, which, if allowed to
remain at the bottom of the pot
Fig. 11. and saturate the compost, is
often the cause of cuttings rotting off at the wound where the
roots should be made ; having properly placed the drainage,
fill the pots with compost, of good mellow loam, with a quan-
tity of good sharp sand, in order to keep it free and open ;
shake the compost gently into the pot, and insert from six to
ten cuttings in each pot about two inches in the compost ;
this done, give them a moderate watering, and place them in
the front of the green-house, frame, or any situation where
they can be shaded from the mid-day sun. In this situation,
they will require good attention, by keeping them moderately
watered, clearing away any dead leaves, or filth that may col-
lect about them. By this treatment, most cuttings may be
rooted in a month, or six weeks, when they may be potted
off, in the same manner as recommended for " Potting Plants."
Hard wooded cuttings, as the Camellia, Laurestina, Pittospo-
rum, and evergreens in general, belonging to the green-house,
are taken from the plants when the young wood is well ripen-
ed, which is about the latter end of August or beginning of
September. They are prepared in the same manner as re-
commended for soft wooded plants, and should be covered
with bell glasses, which should be taken off every day and
wiped dry, in order that they may not damp off, which will
PROPAGATION OF GREKN-HOUSE PLANTS. 201
be the case if impure moisture is allowed to remain on the
inside of the glass. The cuttings may remain in this state
until the spring, or so soon as they are well rooted, when
they may be potted off, in the proper compost, recommended
for the parent plant.
Erica, Diosma, and Epacris, with their natural families,
may be propagated, by taking off the young shoots when well
ripened, and preparing a compost of peat, as recommended
for them under the proper heads. The pots may be filled
with crocking at the bottom ; then fill it up to within two
inches with sharp white sand, into which insert the cuttings,
which should be covered with bell glasses, and treated in the
same manner as other cuttings.
Striking cuttings in water. — There are many kinds of
soft-wooded green-house plants that are readily propagated in
water, such as the Oleanders, Cape Jasmine, &c. This is
generally done when the wood of the plants to be increased
is tolerably well ripened ; when the cuttings are to be taken
from the plants and prepared in the usual way ; they are then
placed in glass phials, hyacinth glasses, or the like, filled with
water, and kept in a temperature of 60°, until they make
roots from the end of the cutting; they may then be potted
as any other cutting, and managed in the same way. In this
method, pure water is a principal item, and the water must
be often changed, as for bulbs, &c.
GLOSSAKY.
AcauUs, having no stem. Gentiana acaulis, Cnicus acaulis.
Acuminatus, pointed sharp. Erica acuminata.
Acutus, sharp, pointed, acuminate. Rumex acutus.
Alatus, winged ; having membraneous appendages. Thunbergia alata.
Alburnum, the white wood near the bark of trees.
Albus, white. Populus alba, Azalea alba.
Amabilig, amiable ; pleasing. Crinum amabile.
Amphibium, amphibious; growing either in or out of the water.
Angustus, narrow, straight, slender. Kalmia angustifolium.
Apex, the summit; generally applied to anything terminating in a
point.
Apiculatum, (apis, a bee,) resembling a bee; as the flowers of Del-
phinum elatum, or Bee Larkspur.
Aquaticus, (aqua, water,) growing in water. Water Lily, &c.
Arboreus, shrubby ; woody. Daturea arborea, Erica arborea.
Ardens, bright ; glowing ; burnished. Erica ardens.
Argenteus, silvery ; white and shining like silver. Protea argentea.
Armatus, armed with spines, aculei, &c. Acacia armata.
Articulatus, jointed. Cacalia articulata.
Asterias, (a star,) stellate. Stapelia asterias.
Atropurpureus, compound of black and purple. Camellia airopur-
purea.
Augustus, imperial; grand; magnificent. Pelargonium augustum.
Australis, southern; coming from the south. Erica australis.
Azurea, (azure, sky blue,) sky blue colored. Campanula azurea.
Barba, a beard ; a species of rigid pubescence. Chironia barbata.
Bicolor, (com. bis and color,} two colored. Erica bicolor.
Biennis, of two year's duration. Canterbury Bell.
Biflorus, (com. bis and flos,} two flowered. Narcissus biflorus, Erica
biflora.
Borealis, northern. Linnea borealis.
Bractea, an ornamental leaf, exemplified in the Lime or Basswood.
Coeruleus, sky colored. Trachelium cceruleum.
Campanulatus, (campana, a bell,) bell shaped. Ipomcea carnpanulata.
Capitatus, growing in a head; a species of inflorescence. Diosma
capitata.
Cardinalis, principal ; chief; also scarlet, from the color of a cardinal's
robe. Lobelia cardmalis.
Carneus, (carnis, flesh,) flesh colored. Veronica carnea.
Carnosus, (carnis, flesh,) fleshy ; plump ; thick ; pulpy. Hoya car~
nosa.
202
GLOSSARY. 203
Ciliatus, (dUum, the eye-lid,) edged with hairs like an eye-lid. Erica
ciliaris, Diosma ciliata.
Coccineus, scarlet ; a deep scarlet. Salvia coccinea.
Color, hue ; a sensible quality distinguishable by the eye.
Colorans, (color,") a term used to express mutability and diversity of
color. Erica colorans.
Coma, a head or tuft of hah- ; a terminal bractea, forming a tuft as in
Eucomis punctata, Lavendula spicata.
Communis, common ; general. Pyrus communis.
Compactus, close ; compact ; solid.
Concolor, one colored. Erica concolor, Lilium concolor.
Conspicuus, clear, apparent ; excellent ; very grand. Erica conspicua.
Corculum, (dun. of cor, the heart,) a little heart ; the embryo of the
future plant, contained in the seed.
Cordatus, (cor, the heart,) heart-shaped. Diosma cordata.
Cornutus, horned. Erica cornuta.
Corolla, a little crown ; chaplet, or garland ; the painted leaves of a
Jiower.
Cortex, the outer rind or covering of trees and plants,
Coronatus, (corona, a crown,) resembling a crown. Lychnis coronata.
Corymbus. a cluster of ivy berries.
Crispus, crisped ; curled ; crumped. Ixia crispa.
Cruentus, bloody ; red like blood. Erica cruenta.
Cupreus, (cuprum, copper,) copper colored. Iris cuprea.
Cyaneus, of a bright blue color. Arista cyanea.
Cylindricus, (cylindrus, a cylinder or roller,) cylindric. Cactus cylin-
dricus.
Deciduous, subject to fall. A tree is deciduous when the leaves fall off
in autumn.
Decorus, handsome ; graceful. Protea decora. Erica decora.
Decussalus, (decusso, to divide crosswise.) A plant is decussate when
its leaves point in four directions only, or crosswise. Phlox decussata.
Defoliation, (de, from, and folium, a leaf,) the shedding of leaves.
Dentatus, toothed ; having notches like teeth. Mostly applied to the
margins of leaves. Lavendula dentata.
Didymus, (twins,) two united. Monarda didyma.
Dipetalus, two petalled. Pelargoninum dipetalum.
Discolor, (two and color,') two colored. Tradescantia discolor.
Divaricatus, growing in a disorderly manner ; inclining. Phlox divari*
cata.
Dulcis, sweet ; nectariferous. Inga dulcis^ Solanum dulcimera.
Echinatus, covered with prickles. Pelargonium echinatum. '
Edulis, eatable ; good for food. Passiflora edulis.
Elegans, elegant ; handsome ; neat ; fine. Eupatorium elegana.
Ensiformis, sword-shaped. Mimosa ensifolia.
Equestris, (equus, a horse,) having the fancied resemblance of a horse's
head. Amaryllis equestris.
Erectus, erect ; upright ; aspiring. Clematis erecta.
Erubescens, blush colored. Erica erubescens.
Eximius, choice ; excellent; noble. Gnaphalivm eximium.
204 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
Falcatus, (fake, a hook or sickle,) hooked ; bent like a sickle. Aspa-
ragus falcatus.
Ferrugineus, iron-colored ; rusty. Lasiopetalum ferrugineum ,• Rhodo-
dendron ferrugineum.
Filamentosus, (filum, a thread,) thread-shaped ; producing filaments.
Yucca Jilamentosa.
Fimbriatus, fringed ; flounced. Camellia fimbriata.
Flagellifonnis, (flagellum, a whip.) Cactus fiagelliformis.
Floridibus, florid ; gay; fresh. Gardenia florida.
Foetid us, of a rank smell. Pothos foetidus ; Cerissa foetida.
Folium, a leaf of a plant.
Formosus, beautiful ; handsome; ornamental. Potentilla formosa.
Fragrans, having a smell, either agreeable or disagreeable ; but generally
applied to the former. Olea fragrans.
Fruticosus, (frutex, a shrub,) shrubby. Althea frutex.
Fulgens, shining; glittering; resplendent. Lobelia fulgens f Salvia
fulgens.
Genera, plural of genus.
Genus, a kindred ; a race ; a family.
Gibbosus, ( Gibbus, bunched out, gouty,) abounding with excrescences,
particularly at the joints. Pelargonium gibbosum.
Giganticus, giant-like ; huge. Colotropris gigantea.
Glandulosus, furnished with glands. Hypericum glandulosum.
Glomeratus, (glomero,to gather into around heap,) collected together in
a round assemblage. Gnaphalium glomeratum ; Mesembryanthemum
glomeratum.
Gloriosus, superb; grand. Yucca gloriosa.
Gracilis, slender ; weak ; lank. Jasminum gradle ; Fuchsia gracilis.
Grand is, great; lofty; sublime. Tectona grandis ; Banksia grandis.
Grandiflorus, (grandis, great, and fas.} Cactus grandiflorus.
Granulatus, (granum, a grain of corn.) Resembling a grain of corn
in any part. Saxifraga granulata.
Gratus, grateful ; agreeable. Lonicera grata.
Hepaticus, (hepar, the liver,) liver-colored ; lobed like the liver. Ane-
mone hepalica.
Hibernacula, winter quarters ; a part of the plant which protects the
embryo herb ; the covering of a bud.
Hirsutus, rough ; hairy ; shaggy. Epilobium hirsutum ; Viola hirsuta.
Hispidus, rough ; bristly ; rugged. Robinia hispida.
Hortensis, (hortus, a garden,) pertaining to or growing in gardens.
Hydrangea hortensis.
Hybridus, (a mongrel,) bastard ; partaking of the nature of two species.
Passijlora hybrida.
Ignescens, (ignis, fire,) fiery ; ardent. Erica ignescens,- Pelargonium
ignescens.
Imbricatus, tile-like ; laid over one another. Aloe imbricata ; Diosma
imbricata.
Immersus, immersed; growing under water.
Incanus, hoary ; mouldy ; colored. Cistus incanus.
Incarnatus, (in and caro, flesh,) flesh colored. Erodium incamatum.
GLOSSARY. 205
Indigena Planta, a native ; home bred. American laurel and Honey-
suckles.
Infundibuliformis, (infundibulum, a funnel,) funnel shaped. Erica
infundibulifttrmis.
Inodorus, having no smell. Allium inodorum; Syringa inodora.
Integra, entire ; whole. Clematis integrifolia.
Involucrum, (involvo, to envelope,) wrap or fold in.
Laccatus, (lac, milk,) milky ; also, improperly, lake colored. Gladiolus
laccutus.
LseMgatus, (l&vis, smooth.) Prinos l&vigatus / Calicanthuslsevigatus.
Lanatus, woolly ; covered with a downy pubescens resembling wool.
Stachys lanata,- Geranium lanata.
Lanceolatus, (lanceo, a spear or lance,) lance-shaped. Acacia lanceolata.
Latifolius, broad-leaved. Kalmia latifolia.
Liber, the inner bark of trees and plants.
Liliacea, plants resembling the lily.
Linguus, (lingua, a tongue) tongue-shaped. Aloe lingua.
Lobatus, (the flap of the ear,) lobate. Pelargonium lobatum.
Lophantus, a crest or mane. Acacia lophanta.
Maculatus, spotted ; speckled. Aram maculatum; Phlox maculatum*
Major, the bigger ; greater. Tropxolum majus.
Mamnrillaris, (mammilla, a little breast.) Cactus mammillaris.
Marithnus, growing near the sea. Crambe maritima.
Maximus, greatest ; the superlative degree of dimension. Convolvulus
major.
Meieagris, a Guinea fowl ; speckled. Fritillaria meleagris.
Micans, glittering ; shining. Lavalera micans / Pelargonium micans.
Microphyllus, small-leaved. Edwardsia microphylla,- Fuchsia mycro-
phylla; Rosa mycrophylla.
Minor, (com. ofparvus, little,) less ; smaller. Convolvulus minor.
Monophyllus, one-leaved. Kennedia monophylla.
Monstrosus, monstrous; out of ordinary course of nature. Hyacinthus
monstrosus.
Montanus, (mons, a mountain,) growing on mountains. Veronica
montana.
Moschatus, having a musky smell. Rosa moschata.
Multiflora, (mullus, many, and Jlos,) many flowered. Rosa muttiflora;
Jasminum multiflorum.
Muscosus, mossy ; resembling moss. Rosa muscosa ; Moss Rose.
Nanus, dwarf, of humble growth. Philadelphus nanus.
Naturalis, agreeable to nature.
Nectarium, (nectar, honey,) the part of a flower or plant that contains
honey.
Niger, black ; dark colored. Orobus niger.
Nobilis, notable, grand. Laurus nobilis.
Nocturnus, (nox, night,) night flowering ; night smelling. (Enethera
nocturna ; Cestrum nocturnum.
Octagonus, eight angled. Cactus odagonus.
S
206 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION.
rrsmell, either good or bad, but mostly applied to such as are grate-
ful. Daphne odorata.
Orientalis, eastern. Gnaphalium orientate ; Papaver orientate.
Pallidus, pale j of a dusky white color. Crocus pallidus ; Calceolaria
pallida.
Palustris, (palus,z marsh,) growing in marshes. Caltha palustris ,•
Hibiscus palustris.
Paniculatus, (panicula,) panicle flowered. Phlox pani cula.
Parvus, small ; insignificant.
Pavonius, (pavo, a peacock,) spotted with gay colors as a peacock.
Corteria pavonia.
Pedunculus, (pes, a foot,) the proper footstalk of a flower.
Pencillatus, (pencil/urn, a painter's pencil.) painted as if with a pencil ;
delicately painted, as the lines or spots in the Pelargonium.
Pentagonus, five angled. Cactus pentagonus.
Pentapetalus, five petalled, flowers having five distinct petals, or flower
leaves.
Persolutus, accomplished ; elegant. Erica persoluta*
Pictus, (pingo, to paint,) painted. Phlox pidum.
Planta, a plant.
Plumatus, (pluma, a feather,) feathery, downy. Erica plumosa.
Polypetalus, many petalled, as the Rose and Dahlia.
PKECOX, early. Calycanthus prsecox.
Princeps, chief; principal. Passijhtra princeps.
Prostratus, prostrate ; lying flat. Disandra prostrata ; Banksia pros'
trata.
Pulchellus, pretty ; neat; elegant. Clarkea pulchella.
Pumilus, d warf. Iris p umila.
Purpureus, purple colored. Aster purpureus.
Pyrainidalis, pyramidal ; tapering. Phlox pyramidalis.
Quadrangularis, four angled ; square. Passijlora quadr angular) s.
Quinquefolius, (quinque, five, and folium.) Ampetopsis quinquefulia.
Racemosus, (racemus, a cluster of grapes,) growing in clusters. Sym-
phora racemosa.
Radicans, (radix, a root,) rooting ; producing claspers resembling roots.
Bignonia radicans.
Ramus, a bough or branch of a tree.
Reniformis, (renis, the kidneys,) kidney-shaped. Pelargonium reni-
forme.
Repens, creeping. Ranunculus repens.
Retortus, (turned backwards,) bent back; twisted. Erica retorta.
Revolutus, rolled backwards. Cycus revoluta.
Ringens, grinning ; gaping. Minulus ringens.
Rivalis, of or pertaining to a river. Minulus rivalis.
Roseus, rose colored. Ixia rosea.
Rotatus, (rota, a wheel,) wheel-shaped. Pancratium rotatum.
Rubellus, somewhat red ; reddish. Erica rubella.
Rubens, ruddy ; blushing. Crassula rubens.
Ruber, red. Valeriana rubra*
GLOSSARY. 207
Rubicundus, deep red ; also, ruddy. Kennedia rubicunda.
Rugosus, rough ; wrinkled ; furrowed. Calceolaria rugosa.
Sanguineus, blood-colored. Rosa sanguineum.
Scariosus, having longitudinal incisions or channels. Liatris scariosus.
Sempervirens, evergreen. Lonicera sempervirens.
Sparsus, scattered ; spread abroad. Beaufortia sparsa.
Spicatus, (spica, a spike,) spike-flowered. Liatris spicata.
Splendens, glittering ; splendid ; beautifuL Lobelia splendens.
Stamina, the male organs of a flower.
Sterilis, barren. Fragaria sterilis.
Stoloniferus, creeping. Phlox stoknifera.
Striatus, channelled ; also, striped. Geranium striatum.
Strobilus, the Artichoke ; the cone of a Fir.
Suaveolens, (suacis, sweet,) smelling sweet ; more commonly applied to
strong scented. Phlox suaveolens.
Sylvestris, (sylva, a wood.) Anemone sylvestris.
Tardiflorus, (tardo, to be long in coming ; and>/?ora.) Aster tardiflora.
Tenellus, slender, delicate. Aster tenella.
Translucens, (transluceo, to shine through.) Pelargonium translucent.
Tremulus, tremblhig ; shaking. Populus tremula.
Truncatus, (truncus, cut short, maimed,) leaves, roots, &c., are called
truncate when they terminate bluntly, as if cut, or bitten of£ Cactus
truncatus.
Tubiflorus, (tubus, a tube,) tube-flowered. Erica tubiflora.
Umbellatus, (umbeUa,} umbellate. Agapanthus umbellatus.
Undulatus, (undo, a wave,) waved ; when the margins of the leaves, or
petals, are larger in proportion than their disks. Pittosporum undulatum ;
Amaryllis undulata.
Variegatus, (modern Latin,) having an intermixture of colors. Ms
varicgalus, Pelargonium variegatum.
Vernus, pertaining to the spring. Phlox vernus.
Versicolor, changing color; particolored. Iris versicolor ; Oxalis ver-
sicolor.
Verticillatus, whorl-flowered. Acacia verticillata.
Viridis, green ; flourishing. Lachnelia viridis.
Vittatus, (a fillet, or ribbon) ribbon-like. Amaryllis vittata.
Volubilis, twining round other bodies. Hibbertia volubilis.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
DRAWINGS and Specifications for the Patent Office, and
for every description of Machinery.
ALSO
For Landscape Gardens, Villas, Suburban Cottages, City Residences,
&c., &c., and
Designs for Pictorial Works, by
GEO. H. KNIGHT,
Pennsylvania Hotel, East Front Street,
CINCINNATI.
({^/•Instruction given in the above.
LAYING OUT GARDENS
AND
BEGS leave to return his thanks to those who have been pleased to
patronize him, and solicits a continuance of their favors.
In laying out Gardens and Ornamental Plantations, every attention
will be given in the selection of Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs,
Flowers, and Green-house Plants, which will be furnished at nursery
prices.
A choice collection of Flower Seeds, selected from last year's growth,
will be furnished at moderate prices.
The Pruning of Grape Vines, Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, &c., will also
be performed.
All orders left at Ely & Campbell's Seed Store, No. 23, Lower Market-
Street, Cincinnati, will be punctually attended to.
EDWARD SAYERS.
February, 1846,
SAYERS & HEAVER,
NURSERYMEN AND FLORISTS.
READING ROAD NURSERY,
One and a naif miles from Cincinnati; on the
Reading' and Lebanon Turnpike.
THE Proprietors of this establishment offer for sale a large
collection of FRUIT TREES, consisting of APPLES,
PEARS, QUINCES, CHERRIES, PEACHES, APRICOTS,
NECTARINES, PLUMS, GRAPE-VINES, CURRANTS,
GOOSEBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, STRAWBERRIES,
RHUBARB and ASPARAGUS, &c.
Also, a general assortment of
Ornamental Trees, Evergreens and Flowering
Shrubs, Hardy Herbaceous Plants, &c.
Their stock of ROSES is extensive, containing over Two
Hundred Varieties; embracing nearly all the new and esteemed
varieties of everblooming kinds of BENGAL, BOURBON, TEA,
NOISETTE, PERPETUAL and REMONTANTES.
Also, a large and general assortment of GREEN-HOUSE
PLANTS, comprising CAMELLIAS, AZALEAS, CACTUS,
FUCHSIAS, PELARGONIUMS, CALCEOLARIAS, VER-
BENAS, GERANIUMS, &c., &c.
A fine assortment of DAHLIAS, of more than One Hundred
Varieties; PEONIES, RANUNCULUS, and other Tuberous
Plants:
Also, a general collection of Bulbs, consisting of TULIPS,
HYACINTHS, TUBEROSES, NARCISSUS, GLADIOLUS,
TIGRIDIAS, LILIES, CROCUS, &c., &c., with a general col-
too numerous to detail in the limits of an advertisement.
PAULOWNIA IMPERIALIS— a few strong plants of this
rare and admired tree for sale.
TREES carefully packed, for forwarding to any part of the Union, (for
which a reasonable price will be charged,) and delivered in any part of the
city, or on steamboat, free of expense. ORDERS, directed to the subscribers,
sent through the Post-office, accompanied with the cash or responsible city
references, will be punctually attended to.
ELY & CAMPBELL, 23 Lower Market St., City Agents.
The subscribers, thankful for past patronage, beg to inform their friends
and customers, that all new and valuable varieties of Fruit Trees and
Flowering Plants will be added to their collections, as they become intro-
duced and proved.
Feb. 1846. SAYERS & HEAVER.
N. B. Catalogues forwarded gratis to all post paid applicants.
18 s2
NEAR CINCINNATI.
THE Proprietor respectfully calls the attention of the public to
this establishment; which now embraces all the leading and
BEST FRUITS of the country, with a very general and large
stock of Evergreen Trees and Plants, Ornamental
Shade Trees, Shrubs and Plants, Roses, Tines,
Creepers, &c. ; Flowering Plants, Bulbs, &c. All
the new and best Strawberries, with a general supply of
most things cultivated in the best EASTERN NURSERIES.
An unremitted personal attention to the business for the last ten or
twelve years, with occasional visits to the best fruit regions of our country,
and an extensive correspondence, have enabled the proprietor to make
such a collection of valuable Fruits as cannot fail to prove satisfactory.
Communications and Orders, left at the Post-office, will receive the
prompt attention of the proprietor. Articles designed for shipment care-
fully packed, and delivered in the city.
SPRING GARDEN, ) A. H. ERNST,
M
February, 1846.
Proprietor.
S, S, JACKSON,
Three miles below Cincinnati, on the River Road,
Between the residences of Major Wm. Oliver and S. S. L'Hommedieu,
constnnthj for sale
Fruit and Ornamental Trees and Shrubs,
VINES, GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, &c.
(Xj3 Cut Flowers at all seasons. «£0
SEED STORE
AND
AGRICULTURAL WAREHOUSE,
NO. 23, LOWER MARKET-STREET,
HATE taken the store formerly occupied by Mr. S. C. PARKHURST, for the
purpose of doing a Seed and General Commission Business, and beg leave
to remind his numerous friends and customers, throughout the West and
Southwest, that they will continue to carry on the Seed Business, at the old
stand, No. 23, Lower Market-street, Cincinnati, which was originally es-
tablished sixteen years ago.
They have recently enlarged their business in relation to Garden Seeds
and Fruit and Ornamental Trees, and are now prepared to furnish, either
at wholesale or retail, the Seeds of every variety of vegetables cultivated in
this section of the Union, comprising early and late varieties of Peas and
Beans, Beets, Cabbages, Carrots, Cauliflowers, Celery, Cucumbers, Let-
tuces, Melons, Onions, Parsnips, Radishes, Squashes, Turnips, Tomatoes,
Sweet Herbs, Ornamental Flower Seeds, &c. Also, Bird Seed of all
kinds, comprising Canary, Hemp, Millet, Rape and Maw Seeds.
Country Merchants can be supplied with boxes of any size,
comprising a complete assortment of the best Seeds, warranted fresh and
genuine, and neatly put up in small packages for retail, with printed direc-
tions on each package, and labeled, &c., on the most liberal terms.
Agricultural Implements, as Plows, Scythes, Rakes, &c.,
of the most approved construction for this market, constantly on hand, at
manufacturers' prices.
Fruit and Ornamental Trees. Particular arrangements
have been made with both Eastern and Western Nurserymen to furnish
all kinds of Fruit Trees, as Apples, Pears, Peaches, Cherries, Plums,
Nectarines, Apricots, Quinces, &c., of the best kinds now cultivated.
Pamphlet catalogues, with directions for their management, so as to obviate
the attacks of insects, supplied gratis.
Have now growing near the city, and will be prepared to furnish in the
Autumn of 1846, 50,000 plants of the OSAGE ORANGE, raised from Seed
procured in Texas, and are also receiving a large lot of fresh Seed.
Cash Paid for Clover, Timothy, and Blue Grass Seed, Flax Seed,
Black Locust Seed, Mustard Seed, Beans, Dried Fruit, Cheese, and all
kinds of Western Produce, at the highest market price. Catalogues of
Seeds, Implements, &c., supplied Gratis, on application at the store, or by
letter, post paid.
E. & C. also are agents for the ALBAXY CULTIVATOR and OHIO
CULTIVATOR, two of the most valuable agricultural works published in
this country : Price $1 per year, each.
Farm Sc Garden
SEEDS.
Farm & Garden
TOOLS.
BOOKS, &o
SEED WAREHOUSE,
No. 05, Chestnut-Street,
PHILADELPHIA
Extract from the "REPORT" of the "VISITING
COMMITTEE of the PENNSYLVANIA HORTI-
CULTURAL SOCIETY;" unanimously adopted and
ordered to be printed.
NURSERIES AND GARDENS. "
* * * * "Garden Seeds of the finest quality
have been scattered over the country from these grounds,
and may always be depended upon. The SEED ESTABLISH-
MENT of these HORTICULTURISTS is one of the most extensive
in the Union, and its reputation is well sustained from year
to year.
" To obviate the chance of mixture of the farina of the
plants of the same family, they have established another nur-
sery, at a suitable distance, so that degeneration cannot take
place, and which secures to the purchasers <a genuine article.'
Knowing thus the age, quality and process of culture of every
plant, the supply from their grounds is recommended with
great confidence"
K5- The SEED GARDENSt alone, cover fifty acres, and the
whole is, as it has been for more than half a century, under
the successive management of father and sou, the most prom-
inent in America.
THE L.ANJ3RETH
NURSERIES,
FEDERAL STREET, NEAR THE ARSENAL,
PHILADELPHIA.
THIS widely known establishment, formerly (and for nearly
half a century) conducted by its founders, the late DAVID and
CUTHBERT LANDRETH, and now in the hands of the subscribers,
is furnished with a judiciously selected stock, comprising the
CHOICEST FRUITS, MAGNIFICENT SHADE AND EVERGREEN
TREES, FLOWERING SHRUBS, GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, &c.
Perhaps there is no similar concern in the United States, where so
select, and at the same time, general an assortment may be found.
In deciding on the Fruits to be propagated, the subscribers have
been governed by a desire to cultivate only the more esteemed
kinds, and not by an absurd ambition to possess all, without re-
gard to merit; consequently they have confined themselves to a
comparatively limited variety — rejecting many still disseminated
to the eventual disappointment of purchasers. The assortment of
DECORATIVE TREES, evergreen and deciduous, is particular-
ly worthy of attention ; and having been frequently removed in
the nursery, may be transplanted with success: EVERGREENS
have usually been deemed particularly liable to die on transplant-
ing; but those grown on our damp soil, succeed as well as any de-
scription of Trees.
The collection of hardy Shrubs and Roses is numerous — the
latter includes all the fine ones of recent introduction. Among the
Green-house Plants, are upwards of three thousand engrafted
Camellias, and innumerable beautiful Plants from all quarters
of the globe.
Catalogues with prices annexed, may be had on personal or
post-paid application at the HORTICULTURAL WARE-HOUSE of
D. LANDRETH, *o. 65 Chestnut Street,
where orders for the Nursery are received.
*** The prices of most articles have been much reduced, trust-
ing to an increasing demand for reimbursement.
D. LANDRETH & FULTON,
fG* Extract from the " REPORT" of the "VISITING
COMMITTEE of the PENNSYLVANIA HORTI-
CULTURAL SOCIETY ;" unanimously adopted, and
ordered to be printed:
LANDRETH'S
NURSERIES AND GARDENS,
" THESE extensive grounds are on Federal Street, near the
Arsenal. * * * * * The earliest collection of Camellias
was made here. Some of those now in the possession of those
distinguished nursery-men, are ten feet high. * * * *
The selection of GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS is valuable and extensive.
..
" In the NURSERIES we saw a great many Magnolias, of which
there are no less than thirteen distinct species and three varieties.
One plant of the M. grandiflora is twenty feet high and in full
bloom. Here are likewise the M. cordata fifty feet high ; a beau-
tiful M, eliptica in flower, and a magnificent specimen eighteen
feet high, of the M. conspicua; the curious Osage Orange, that
retains its lucid foliage longer than any other deciduous tree. * *
" The NURSERIES are all very correctly managed, supplying
every part of the Union; a detail of which would occupy too
much of our space; we therefore content ourselves with stating
that the stock is very large, and in every stage of growth, con-
sisting of
Forest and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Ever-
greens, Vines and Creepers,
With a collection of Herbaceous Plants; FRUIT TREES of
the best kind, and most healthy condition; large beds of Seed-
ling Apples, Pears, Plums, &c., as stocks for budding and graft-
ing ; a plan very superior to that of working upon suckers, which
carry with them into the graft all the diseases of the parent
stock." * * * *
*#* Since the date of the "REPORT" from which the above is
extracted, the ENTIRE ESTABLISHMENT has been GREATLY EN-
LARGED. The collection of Camellias embraces all the finer kinds,
and consists of some thousands of various sizes ; so likewise of
Roses, and other desirable plants, both tender and hardy — Fruit
Trees, etc.
AGRICULTURAL & GARDEN SEED WAREHOUSE,
East Fifth-Street, Between Main and Sycamore,
CINCINNATI,
THE proprietor of this establishment respectfully invites the attention of
his friends, and the citizens of the west generally, to his extensive stock
of AGRICULTURAL LMPLEMEXTS, and GARDEN TOOLS, all of the most
approved construction and material
Agricultural Seeds. — All the varieties of Grasses, Clovers;
new and choice kinds of Wheat, Barley, Oats, Corn, &c.
GARDEN SEEDS . — ^ lar§e and valuable assortment of
Vegetable Seeds, comprising all the kinds most worthy of cultivation,
together with many new and choice sorts.
(£j* Country Merchants supplied with boxes of assorted Vegetable
Seeds, for retailing, each kind neatly labeled with the name, and direc-
tions for culture.
FLO W E R. SEEDS . — ^ne °f tne most extensive collections
of Flower Seeds in the United States, embracing all the varieties known
to our Florists, with many new and rare kinds. The Flower Seeds will
be sold in single packets, at five to ten cents; in packages containing
thirty named varieties, one dollar ; fifty varieties, one dollar and fifty cents.
AGRICULTURAL AND GARDENING BOOKS— A full assortment of
choice works upon Agriculture, Gardening, and Rural Economy.
MISCELLANEOUS ARTIC LES.— Canary, and
other singing Birds of approved song, Bird Cages, in great variety, Bird
Seed of all kinds, Bulbous Flower-roots, Bulb-glasses, Bird-glasses for
water and seeds, together with all other articles usually kept hi establish-
ments of the kind.
H. H. is agent for the sale of several extensive collections of Fruit
Trees, Shrubs, and Flowering Plants, catalogues of which, together with
those of the implements, tools, seeds, &c., can be obtained gratis at the
Seed Warehouse.
NURSERYMEN AND FLORISTS,
Keep for sale; Fruit and Ornamental Trees and Shrubs, Vines, Green-House
Plants, &c.
Cot Flowers at all Seasons,
All Plants, Trees, &c., are warranted to be as represented, and care-
fully packed so as to carry to any part of the country. Plants and Trees
delivered in Cincinnati free of charge.
Orders directed to J. C. Ferris, Newport, Ky., or to E. JT.
Hooper, will be punctually attended to.
HOOPER & FERRIS.
February, 1846.
f.
JAMES HOWARTH,
9
Two miles below Cincinnati, on the River road,
Offers for sale, at his Garden, a general assortment of
Fruit and. Ornamental Trees, and Shrubbery,
of the most approved varieties ; together with an extensive collection of
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, and FLOWERS, at moderate prices.
(Purchases exceeding Three Dollars delivered in the city free of expense.)
All Orders left at H. HUXLKT'S Seed Store, next the Dennison House,
on Fifth Street, Cincinnati, will be punctually attended to.
QCj* The Delhi Omnibuses pass the Nursery three times a day, from the
Dennison House, which afford a most delightful ride, presenting a beauti-
ful landscape, in connection with the river and the White Water Canal,
which passes close by the garden gate.
The White Water Canal Packets pass the garden gate three times a
day, during the summer, affording visitors one hour and a half for the
inspection of the gardens, and then returning to the city by coach or boat,
JAMES HOWARTH.
WALNUT HILLS NURSERY,
CINCINNATI.
C. W. ELLIOTT.
NEARLY all the fine varieties of FRUIT T R E E S are for sale
at this Nursery :— APPLES, PEARS, PEACHES, PLUMS,
QUINCES, APRICOTS & NECTARINES, RASPBERRY,
STRAWBERRY, &c., &c.
The severe winter has killed a great many of the young Cherry
Trees, so that they can be furnished only in small numbers.
— Also, for sale —
DAHLIAS, ORNAMENTAL SHADE TREES, EVER-
GREENS, ROSES in variety, (hybrid tender and half tender.)
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
Agency in town is at Corner of Fourth and Sycamore Streets,
J. 31. WADE'S, where Orders will be received, and
where is offered for sale a choice variety of fresh
Garden Seeds,
Flower Seeds,
Sweet Herbs, &c.
Catalogues sent on application — if by mail, post-paid.
36903
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11