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THE LAKE STATES
THE PLAINS STATES
EDITED BY
HENRY G. ALSBERG
Hastings House
PUBLISHERS NEW YORK
Editors
HENRY G. ALSBERG
MARY BARRETT H. H. MILLER
EDWARD DREYER JOSEPH MILLER
DORA THEA HETTWER DALE L. MORGAN
WILLIAM R. McDANIEL MONTANA LISLE REESE
WALTER MCELROY ELLEN M. ROLLINS
COPYRIGHT 1949 BY HASTINGS HOUSE
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA BY
KINGSPORT PRESS, INC., KINGSPORT, TENNESSEE
All rights reserved including the right to reproduce this book
or parts thereof in any form
CONTENTS
THE ILAKE STATES
OHIO: Ohio River Tour 450; US 6 452; US 20 *55; US 30 457; US 30 &
US 30N-^5P; US 40 460; US 50 462; US 25 463; US 33 465
CINCINNATI 466; CLEVELAND 469; COLUMBUS 473
INDIANA: US 20475; US 30477; US 24 478; US 4O 479; US 52452;
St. 46 *54; US 50 485; US 41 486; US 31 488; Ohio River Tour 490
CITIES OF THE CALUMET 493; FORT WAYNE 494; INDIANAPOLIS 496
ILLINOIS: US 20 498; US 30 -500; US 34501; Illinois Waterway Tour 502;
US 24 505; Lincoln National Memorial Highway 507; St 1 509; US 45 510;
US 51 512; Mississippi River Tour 514
CHICAGO 527; EAST ST. Louis 526; ROCK ISLAND AND MOLINE 529
MICHIGAN: US 25 & St. 25550; US 12552; US 112555; US 16556;
US 10555; US 23540; US 27542; US 31545; US 254(5; St. 28545*
US 41549
DETROIT 551; SAULT STE MARIE 555
WISCONSIN: US 2560; US 8 561; US 12562; US 41565; Door Peninsula
Loop Tour 566; US 45 565; US 51 570; US 61 57!
MILWAUKEE 572; MADISON 579
MINNESOTA: US 2555; US 10557; US 12559; US 14559; US 16590-
US 61 591; US 71 595; US 75 597
ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS 599
THE PLAINS STATES 606
MISSOURI: US 40611; US 50616; US 60617; US 66 619; US 61621;
US 67 624; US 65 624; US 71 626
ST. Louis 627
IOWA: US 18 655; US 20 655; US 30 640; US 6 642; US 61 649*
US 65 652; US 71652; US 75655
KANSAS: US 40654; US 50661; US 66666; US 75667; US 81669
NEBRASKA: US 20 675; US 30675; US 6675; US 75654; US 81655
NORTH DAKOTA: US 2 656; US 10 659; US 12 692; US 81 695;
US 281 694; US 83 695; US 85 696
BISMARCK 697
SOUTH DAKOTA: US 12 700; US 212 701; US 14 702; US 16 704;
US 16 Alt 707; US 18707; US 77709; US 81710; US 281711;
US 83712; US 85 -712; US 85 Alt. 715
THE LAKE STATES
OHIO ILLINOIS INDIANA
MICHIGAN WISCONSIN MINNESOTA
Under the Ordinance of 1787, the country around the Great Ls., north & west
of the Ohio R., was organized as the Northwest Territory of the new United States;
& eventually it was divided into the states of Ohio (1803), Indiana (1816), Illinois
(1818), Michigan (1837), Wisconsin (1848) & Minnesota (1858). These six lake
states are part of the "valley of democracy" in which the pioneers saw a chance to
"better their condition" on the vast fertile prairies, & where, at first, the menace of
Indian savagery & the hazards of wilderness living made for equality & close-knit
human relations. The Ohio country became a testing ground for the declared ideals
of the new democracy.
In the present century, the lake states are a vital part of the Middle West, the
place, as John Gunther describes it, where "industry & agriculture both reach their
highest American development & coalesce." Commercial & financial interests link
them with the Atlantic seaboard, while for ancestry they look both South & East, a
great proportion looking East beyond Ellis Island. (Henry Ford, whose impact here
was immeasurable, was the son of an Irish immigrant father & a Pennsylvania
Dutch mother.)
The area is a geographic unit, bordered on the north by Canada, Lake Superior
& Lake Huron & separated south & west from the rest of the country by the Missis-
sippi & Ohio rivers. Ohio is bordered on the east by West Virginia & Pennsylvania,
& the Red River, for a considerable distance, separates Wisconsin from the Dakotas.
In Minnesota alone there are 10,000 inland lakes, 7,000 in Wisconsin, more than
6,000 in Michigan, & each of the southerly states has its attractive lake districts.
Three great river systems originate in Minnesota: the Red River, flowing north to
Hudson Bay; the Minnesota & St. Croix, which join the Mississippi; & the St. Louis,
a part of the St. Lawrence system by way of the Great Lakes. Illinois shares seven
distinct basins, including the Lake Michigan basin, the important Inland Waterway
along the Illinois, the Wabash, the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Rock & the Kaskaskia.
An important factor in Michigan's great lumbering industry were its glacier-made
rivers, including the famous Saginaw, shortest river in the state, with the largest
basin. The Detroit, broadest Michigan river, & the St Clair, at Port Huron, are arched
by international bridges to Windsor & Sarnia, Ontario.
The altitude throughout is generally low, ranging from the lowest point at Cairo,
I1L (279' above sea level) to the Porcupine Mountains at the west end of Michigan's
Upper Peninsula (2,023')- Upper Minnesota, Wisconsin & Michigan reach altitudes
between 1,600' & 2,000', but the southern part of these states is rolling, highly arable
land suited to farms & pastures. Most of Indiana is level or gently rolling except in
the south, where are the lovely Brown County hills. Ohio is more varied, with its
central plain bordered on the east by the rugged foothills of the AUeghenies & on
the south by fairly high & broken terrain. Illinois, preeminently the Prairie State,
nevertheless has an unglaciated northwest corner & a projection of the Ozark range
(reaching 1,000') in the south.
The climate varies widely. Minnesota extends into a more northerly latitude than
Maine, & Cairo, 111., is farther south than Richmond, Va. In the main, however, the
lake states have hot summers & cold winters, brief springtimes & long colorful
autumns. Abundant snowfall in the north makes this excellent skiing & winter sports
country, with many a snowbound village along the highways in the long winters.
439
440 THE LAKE STATES
The states are all fairly symmetrical in shape except Michigan, whose two pen-
insulars are separated by the Straits of Mackinac. The Lower Peninsula resembles
a mitten with a well-defined thumb & ragged top, while the Upper has been compared
to the Indians' "Great Hare" leaping the lakes. Isle Royale, in Lake Superior about
50m O ff the mainland of Michigan, is the largest of the lake islands. Best known
among the smaller islands are those in L. Erie, including Put-in-Bay; in Lake Huron,
historic Mackinac Island & the jewel-like Les Cheneaux; & in Lake Michigan, the
Beaver Island archipelago.
A striking feature of this region is the distribution of population. Minnesota &
Michigan have the largest primitive areas in national & state forests of any states
east of the Mississippi, but wilderness gives way farther south to one of the most
populous areas in the country. More than three-fifths of Ohio's population is urban.
Thirteen of the fifty largest centers in the U.S. are in the lake states, including Chi-
cago, Detroit & Cleveland. Illinois & Ohio, in state population, rank just below New
York & Pennsylvania, Duluth-Superior & Toledo, the leading lakeports, are surpassed
only by New York, among all U.S. ports, in amount of tonnage shipped.
In few regions has geologic history played so large a part in human affairs, & in
few other places is this history so clearly visible as it is around Lake Superior. Here
the untrained eye can see the progressive architecture of the earth, beginning with
exposures of the granite core of the planet, inactive for more than a million years.
(One such exposure is at Jasper Peak, Minn.; others occur in Michigan's Upper
Peninsula & in Wisconsin.) Through eons of mountain building, volcanic action &
inundation by prehistoric seas, the richest iron & copper deposits in the world were
laid down around Lake Superior. Highlands of Alpine height once loomed over &
around what is now the lake's basin. Molten rock was gradually erupted, & the sink-
ing highland became a rocky bowl, to be filled later by retreating glaciers with clear
icy water.
Immense ice sheets, coming late in geologic time, advanced & retreated over the
lake states, forming the Great Lakes (the world's largest body of fresh water) &
creating the attractive contours & thousands of inland lakes & rivers that make this
region one of the great vacation areas of the country. The glaciers also were largely
responsible for the dense forest coverage & fertile prairies. This combination of im-
mense natural resources & magnificent waterways made inevitable the later history
of commercial development & industrialization.
Early man found the region well suited to his needs, & scattered throughout are
some of the finest existing works of the prehistoric moundbuilders. Here occur the
notable effigy mounds, particularly in Wisconsin & Ohio. The finding of a fossil
skeleton of a young girl (later known as "Minnesota Man") indicates even earlier
occupation, perhaps some twenty thousand years ago.
In historic times, one of the largest Indian settlements hi the United States area
was found in the region around the "Soo" in Michigan & Canada. The white man
encountered Indians on all the great waterways, & the earliest settlements were
around Christian missions. Illinois, Indiana & Ohio made a thorough job of dis-
possession, & only in Minnesota is there now any sizable Indian group (more than
30,000). There are scattered settlements in Michigan & Wisconsin, & in the general
population are many descendants of full-blooded & French-Indian ancestors.
Unless it is true that Norsemen, in 1362, left their record on the Kensington Rune
Ston$ (see Minnesota), the first recorded white man hi the region, so far as is known,
was Etienne Bnile, who came to Georgian Bay on Lake Huron c. 16 12 & guided Le
Caron, one of Champlain's four Recollet friars, into the western wilderness. In 1615
Champlain, accompanied by Brule, looked upon Lake Huron, the "Mer Douce." Jean
Nicolet, in 1634, crossed the Straits of Mackinac & entered Wisconsin country, the
first European to appear in the Mississippi valley.
After him came the "coureurs de bois" to push the profitable fur trade for Louis
XIV, King of France. By this time Jesuit fathers had replaced the Gray Friars who
had originally invited the "Black Gowns" to share their wilderness labors. The
Recollet fathers were no longer permitted at the mission in Quebec. Radisson &
Groseilliers left a record (1660) of their voyage from the meeting place of three
great lakes, then across Lake Superior & into Minnesota country. The Jesuits had
preached to the Ojibway at the Soo in 1641, & here Pere Jacques Marquette, in 1668,
founded the first permanent white settlement in the Northwest.
On a fine June morning in 1671, St Lusson, in an elaborate ceremony before
THE LAKE STATES 441
assembled Indians, took formal possession of the Soo & Lakes Huron & Superior in
the name of his "most redoubtable monarch." In 1671, also, Marquette established a
mission at Michilimackinac (at present St. Ignace), around which developed one of
the most important fur-trading posts. Two years later, Marquette, with the fur trader,
Louis Joliet, explored the Mississippi to the mouth of the Arkansas River & entered
the country of the agreeable Illinois Indians.
Fired by the imagination of the greatest of the French explorers, Sieur de La
Salle, Louis XIV envisaged a rich empire in New France, & his Governor in Canada,
Comte de Frontenac, backed La Salle's expeditions into Illinois country & down the
Mississippi. Cahokia (in Illinois) was founded by French fur traders in 1699, the first
permanent white settlement in the Mississippi valley. (The anniversary was cele-
brated there in May, 1949.) Detroit was founded by Cadillac in 1701. Soon a chain
of French trading posts linked Quebec with the Great Lakes & Louisiana, named by
La Salle, & around the posts the Jesuits "ruled savage hordes with a mild, parental
sway" (Parkman). The French people were not eager to immigrate, the Huguenots
were not permitted in New France, & the settlements consequently were never very
large. The fur trade was the dominant interest, but many "ribbon" farms stretched
away from the riverfronts, & life in the French villages was comfortable & gay.
In 1749 Celeron de Blainville (sometimes written Bienville) made his grandiose
voyage on the Ohio River, stopping to plant a lead plate at each established landing,
thus officially claiming for France the lush Ohio country. This gesture helped to
precipitate the French & Indian War, an integral part of the struggle for empire
waged between the British & French until 1815. By the Treaty of Paris, 1763, the
French ceded New France to the British.
With the end of the French empire in America, the English colonists began to
move westward toward a new frontier, although the British Government forbade
private purchase of western lands & the granting of patents or warranting of surveys
by the colonies. The burden of expense involved in enforcing imperial rule over this
vast territory inevitably led to extra taxation & increased the tension between colonies
& mother country.
The Ohio Land Company had been formed in Virginia, & at the beginning of the
Revolution frontiersmen had pushed into Kentucky country. They were constantly
menaced by hostile Indians, the allies of the British. George Rogers Clark's heroic &
successful campaign gained the Northwest Territory for the patriots, giving the new
nation a basis for claiming the area. While Washington faced the British in the East,
Clark, with his Kentucky Big Knives, took the key posts of Kaskaskia & Vincennes
& dreamed of an attack on Detroit. The British moved their fort at the Straits in
Michigan to Mackinac Island, & even after the Treaty of Paris (1783), they held
their northern posts, with the aid of Indian allies. However, in August, 1794, Gen
Anthony Wayne won the Battle of Fallen Timbers (Ohio) & in 1796 raised the U.S.
flag in Detroit.
The Ordinance of 1787, under which the Northwest Territory was organized, had
profound & far-reaching effects. It forbade slavery & enfranchised all men who ful-
filled age, residence & land-ownership requirements. The Ordinance also allowed for
purchases of large tracts of land by organizations such as the new Ohio Company,
founded by Rev. Manasseh Cutler & a group of Massachusetts veterans. All land
grants contained the "section sixteen" allotment set aside to aid public schools. Sev-
eral of the original states claimed western lands, but these claims were relinquished
to the Federal Government, with certain reservations: The Virginia Military Re-
serve & the Connecticut Western Reserve were granted by these states to their citi-
zens who had suffered losses during the Revolution.
The Ohio Company's first settlers, led by Gen. Rufus Putnam, finished their long
journey from Ipswich, Mass., in the spring of 1788 & founded Marietta, on the
Ohio River. The seat of government for the Territory was established here in 1789.
The Scioto Land Company, a group from Pennsylvania & New Jersey, took up land
farther west & founded Cincinnati; &, in 1796, Moses Cleaveland led his New Eng-
land settlers into the Western Reserve. In 1800 the area was divided, & Vincennes
became first capital of the new territory of Indiana, which was subdivided five years
later into Indiana & Michigan (Lower Peninsula) territories. Land offices built of
boards & canvas appeared here & there in the wilderness, but settlement was slow
until after the War of 1812, which was wholeheartedly supported by the western
settlers.
442 THE LAKE STATES
The frontiersmen hated the British who intrigued with the Indians against them,
& they blamed British command of the seas for the economic depression that had
followed the first peak of agricultural prosperity. Also in many minds was a dream of
conquering Canada. Both Mackinac & Detroit fell again into the hands of the British,
& the Northwest Territory was temporarily in British control. Then Oliver H. ^erry
won a decisive victory at Put-in-Bay, on Lake Erie, Sept 10, 1813, Detroit was
recaptured, & Wm. H. Harrison defeated the British in the Battle of the Thames, in
Canada. Thereafter the scene of battle shifted from the Northwest. Peace was de-
clared in December, 1814, & soon an army of settlers followed the trail of buffalo &
deer, Indian, priest & trader into the forests & prairies.
The constitutions of the new western states were very liberal, enfranchising, in
most cases, all men of proper voting age. A more liberal land policy met the demands
of the West, & soon the Cumberland Road (now US40) from Maryland was literally
crowded with the carts & wagons of families from the Eastern states. The Ohio River
was a main artery, & thousands of southern settlers moved across it into the rich Ohio
country. The era of canal building started here after the opening of New York's
Erie Canal (1817-25). The West had become a major force in national politics by
1828 when Andrew Jackson, the Indian fighter & son of the frontier, was elected
President by the "common man" in the East & the farmers in the West.
As highways were built & river commerce grew, many foreign born joined the
westward march, moving on into Illinois & Indiana. Indian uprisings were still not
infrequent, the most serious being that of Black Hawk, in Illinois, & the Sioux
uprising, as late as 1862, in Minnesota. But, on the whole, growth was rapid in the
southern tier. Michigan was passed over by the first wave of immigration, having
been reported a morass of unhealthful swampland, but after the survey made by Gov.
Lewis Cass, settlers began to come in from New England & New York.
Ahead of the settler went the railroad, the "builder of cities," as J. J. Hill, the
great promoter, called the lines of steel rail vanishing into the forests. Pioneer towns
grew up along the canals & at railroad junctions & the early log cabins were rapidly
being replaced by houses of frame, brick & stone. The first major panic occurred in
1837, & in the depression years that followed, the pioneer sought a further frontier
in the Oregon country.
The industrial revolution was already under way when Virginia-born William H,
Harrison, then a resident of Ohio, became President in 1840. Harrison died when
he had been in office scarcely a month, & John Tyler, an independent Democrat,
succeeded to the office. Whig ascendancy was at an end, & with it a political era. la
the new era the lake states, with their complementary resources in coal & iron,
agricultural & forest products, & with their matchless water routes & growing net-
work of railroads, played a large part in industrializing & urbanizing American life.
The Northwest as a whole was opposed to slavery, an increasingly urgent prob-
lem. Innumerable small towns had their Underground Railway Station for the Negro
fleeing to Canada, & the abolition movement was probably stronger in this area than
in any other part of the country, for both economic & humane reasons. The declin-
ing Whig party was finally destroyed, & the Democratic party split, by the anti-
slavery issue. The demand for a new party dedicated to the straggle against further
extension of slavery was met by the organization of the Republican party at Jackson,
Mich., in July, 1854.
In October of that year, the new party won the state election in Ohio. Abraham
Lincoln's challenge to the "little Giant," Stephen A. Douglas, led to the series of
debates in Illinois that made Lincoln a national figure &, through Douglas' formula-
tion of the Freeport Doctrine, created a fatal split in the Democratic party. During
the Civil War, thousands from the lake states joined the Union Army, & Ohio alone
furnished more than fifty high-ranking officers. Led by Clement L. Vallandigham, of
Ohio, there was also bitter opposition to the war, but on the whole abolitionist &
nationalist fervor swept the Northwest.
After the war began the great & reckless exploitation of natural resources. The
magnificent forest coverages were rapidly plundered, particularly in Michigan &
Wisconsin. Mining of iron & copper was pursued on a grand scale, & industrial
development, motorized by Detroit & fed by the giant iron & steel, rubber & coal
cities, overwhelmed the pioneer economy. In the heyday of prosperity, American life
was dominated by powerful industrial monopolies, financial interests & railroad mag-
nates, grown rich on huge grants of land made recklessly by the Government during
THE LAKE STATES 443
the settlement of the West. Political corruption was the order of the day. An out-
standing figure of the Gilded Age was Marcus A. Hanna, Cleveland capitalist &
politician, who dominated American political life until his death in 1904. He was
instrumental in the election of President McKinley & was the directing force in the
Republican party for many years.
With industrial development the movement for organization of labor grew
stronger. One of the most interesting early manifestations of the fight against monop-
oly was the the Granger Movement, national in scope but centered in the Middle
West. It began after the Civil War, & angry farmers in local Granges discussed their
grievances, particularly against railroad monopolies. So strong was the influence
that many laws restricting common carriers were called Granger Laws.
The Knights of Labor, organized in 1869, reached a peak in 1886, the year in
which the American Federation of Labor was organized by various craft unions.
The Knights, like the modern CIO, were committed to the idea of industrial union
regardless of craft. On May 4, 1886, occurred the May Day riot & bombing at
Haymarket Square, in Chicago. The Knights had backed the demonstration but had
no hand in the bombing, it is believed. Several leaders were arrested but later par-
doned by Gov. John P. Altgeld, a great defender of civil liberties. Capitalism contin-
ued its policies of blacklisting, lockout, "yellow-dog" contracts & refusal to arbitrate.
The Homestead Steel Strike in Pennsylvania, in 1892, resulted in bitter opposition
to organized labor in one of the lake states' major industries for more than forty
years. Following the panic of 1893, Jacob S. Coxey, of Massillon, O., led his army
of jobless workers to Washington to demand work relief.
The Pullman Strike, one of the most significant in labor history, began at Pullman,
111., May 11, 1894. The American Railway Union, which had been created by
Eugene V. Debs, of Terre Haute, Ind., voted a sympathetic strike & soon twenty-
seven states were involved. The Federal Government stepped in, over the protest of
Gov. Altgeld, with a "blanket injunction'* to break the strike. Debs & other leaders
were arrested & imprisoned. For nearly a half -century afterward, organized labor
fought the use of an injunction in industrial strife.
Another important labor development was the organization of the Industrial
Workers of the World in Chicago, in 1905, led by Debs, Wm. D. Haywood & Daniel
De Leon. In recent labor history, the chief battles of the Committee for Industrial
Organization (CIO) were fought out, naturally enough, in this industrial area. The
UAW is one of the world's largest unions, & John L. Lewis has a strong following in
the coal-mining states.
The lake states, with the rest of the Middle West, continue to be a powerful force
in politics. Ohio ranks with Virginia as the mother of Presidents, having sent seven
native sons (as against Virginia's eight) to the White House, & an eighth, Wm. H.
Harrison, who, though born in Virginia, was a resident of Ohio. In general the shift
from liberal to conservative has been a steady one, but this is a deceptive generaliza-
tion, as extremes meet in the Middle West. Eugene Debs was as typical of Indiana as
was D. C. Stephenson, organizer for the Ku Klux Klan. Wisconsin's political history
is unique in its fifty-year development of the "Wisconsin Idea," begun by Rbt.
Marion La Follette in 1890. Backed by a strong Socialist vote in Milwaukee, many
liberal reforms were inaugurated, including regulation of railroads, direct primaries,
unemployment compensation & direct election of Senators.
Today all six states rank high in industry & agriculture. Ohio ranks third indus-
trially in the nation, while Michigan is first in manufacture of automobiles & parts,
chemicals & Pharmaceuticals & various other products. Illinois is third in all manu-
factured goods. Indiana also takes high place, & Wisconsin is the leader in cheese,
milk & malt products & second in construction machinery. Minnesota's industry is
based on argriculture, with Minneapolis second only to Buffalo as a flour-milling
center. In Ohio, 82 per cent of the area is farm land, in Wisconsin 60 per cent, the
latter state pasturing more dairy cows than any other state. Minnesota shares the
Red River valley wheat area, & Michigan ranks second in beans, plums & cherries.
In mining, one of the great sources of wealth, Minnesota produces about 60 per
cent of all iron ore mined in the United States, & Michigan ranks second, Wisconsin
fourth. Michigan's noted Keweenaw Peninsula mines give it fourth rank in copper,
while lillinois, Ohio & Indiana are all great soft-coal producers. Indiana limestone &
sandstone from Ohio are used throughout the country.
Forest products are still important, especially in Minnesota & in Wisconsin, which
444 THE LAKE STATES
produces a large proportion of the country's fur pelts, but the most important use of
the forest areas is recreational Sports & recreation create a billion-dollar industry in
the lake states, all of which have well-developed state-park systems. Millions of acres
in Minnesota, Michigan & Wisconsin are in national & state forests, most of them
fronting on the Great Lakes & including myriads of small lakes & fishing streams.
Michigan has the greatest inland fisheries in the world. In the wake of the vacationer
& the automobile, miles of splendid highways have unrolled, with resorts of all lands
along the routes. The dunelands on Lake Michigan are remarkably beautiful, with
flowers & other vegetation of more than a thousand species, incl. desert & arctic.
The tradition of tolerance in religion is still strong in the Old Northwest. Ohio
is noted for the number of religious, socialistic & Utopian communities established
there, & the other states are not far behind. It is said that Indiana now has more
Quakers than Pennsylvania. On the other hand, racial prejudice has broken forth in
the metropolitan centers with great & destructive violence, & for many years the
Ku Klux Klan dominated Indiana politics. As in the rest of the country, the two world
wars brought industrial achievement & labor organization to a peak &, at the same
time, let loose a wave of destructive passions & prejudices. A large proportion of the
population in these states is foreign-born or descended from the foreign born, & the
Negro population has grown too rapidly for easy adjustment.
The Ordinance of 1787 specified that "Religion, morality & knowledge being
necessary to good government & the happiness of Mankind, schools & the means of
education shall forever be encouraged," & cultural facilities were developed from
the start. Ohio is second only to Pennsylvania in the number of its colleges, & among
the several large state universities are some of the leading institutions in the nation.
Not only do Chicago, Toledo & other cities have great municipal universities, but
there are hundreds of fine church-sponsored colleges. Among smaller schools are
such individual colleges as Kenyon & Antioch, in Ohio. Chicago is planning an
immense Art Center on the lakefront where final & specialized training in all the
arts will be given, the training usually sought in the East The larger cities have
ranking symphony orchestras, art museums & little theater groups. In the last-named,,
Cleveland has long been outstanding. The Middle West is one of the most advanced
regions in adult education, vocational training, public library administration & hi
work with special groups of children.
In architecture, the lake states have made creative contributions of a high order
through the work of Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan, Frank Lloyd Wright, Albert
Kahn & Eliel Saarinen, the Finnish architect now at Cranbrook Academy of Art,
near Detroit. The influence of the structural engineer is increasingly apparent in all
types of building. Cleveland's Lakefront Mall with fine civic buildings is a model of
gracious planning, & St. Paul's City Hall & Plaza are notable. The array of power
plants, factory buildings, foundries, docks & railroad trackage, characteristic of all
the industrial centers, are the inspiration of much modern painting & sculpture.
Artistic development at first was a by-product of pioneer life. Painting of furni-
ture, tavern signs, cigar-store Indians & figureheads for boats & barges gave the early
artists an excuse for invention. In some sections pottery, weaving & other folk arts
flourished, especially with increased European immigration. Portraitists & landscape
painters were in greater demand as the region prospered. One of the most successful
nineteenth-century painters was George Catlin, who traveled over the Midwest for
his gallery of Indian types. An unusual art product was the elaborate panorama,
usually a battle scene, done by German-trained painters in Milwaukee in the 1880's.
Another important nineteenth-century artist was Thos. Cole, of Ohio, who taught
himself to paint the hills & river near his home & became one of the founders of the
Hudson River School.
Among other better-known Ohio painters are John Twachtman, Frank Duveneck,
George Bellows, Rbt Henri & Chas. Burchfield.
The Hoosier School in Indiana was developed under J. Otis Adams, John E
Bundy & other local artists. Within the present century several Michigan artists have
gained national recognition, including Gari Melchers, Zoltan Sepeshy (Carnegie
prize winner in 1947), & Sarkis Sarfisien. John Steuart Curry, of Wisconsin, is
ranked among the fine regional artists. In sculpture Carl Milles, the Swedish artist
at Cranbrook, Mich., is outstanding, while during the first quarter of the century,
one of the most popular sculptors was Lorado Taft, of Illinois. Characteristic of the
area is the impulse toward art education provided by splendid art galleries & centers,
THE LAKE STATES 445
such as those in Toledo, Chicago, Cleveland & Detroit, where may be seen the Rivera
murals on Detroit industry.
In music, the outstanding creative contribution is Chicago jazz, but the Old
Northwest had music from the beginning, especially the song & ballad. In the
Gardner Checkering collection, "Ballads & Songs of Southern Michigan" (1939),
tribute is paid to the inestimable service of the lumber camps "in preserving &
distributing all manner of folk music. . . ." Singing societies were among the first
cultural organizations, & the country dance was a musical occasion. The tradition
lives in famous choral organizations, such as the choir of the College of St. Olaf in
Northfield, Minn., & the Westminster (Presb.) Choir in Dayton, Ohio.
TM *__..* i__._.a__ ^ f - .1 music was
is (with theL _.
- ' many Negro people i_
all the states form a strong element in revival of the Spiritual, in jazz & in leading
orchestral & choral groups. Theodore Thomas, who came from Germany as a child,
is the great name in orchestral development in the Middle West. In 1859, he toured
the region with an operatic company &, on the night of the fire of 1871, he conducted
an orchestral concert in Chicago, where he organized the Chicago Orchestra twenty
years later.
The earliest writings in the region were the "Journals" of Father Marquette & the
"Jesuit Relations," a priceless record of New France written in squalid Indian camps,
based in part on tales told by the "coureurs de bois." Other early works too seldom
read are Black Hawk's "Autobiography" & George Rogers Clark's account of his
expedition, included in M.M. Quaife's "The Capture of Old Vincennes." In recent
times Quaife, Walter Havighurst, Harlan Hatcher & other Midwestern writers have
contributed eloquently to the epic of the Great Lakes. While not strictly creative
literature, the writings of Abraham Lincoln, Carl Schurz, John Muir & Thorstein
Veblen should be noted.
The lake states have produced a large number of the country's popular fiction
writers, including George Barr McCutcheon of Graustark fame; Zane Grey, Jas. O.
Curwood, Lew Wallace, Augusta Evans Wilson, Rex Beach, Stewart Edward White,
Edna Ferber, Booth Tarkington, Louis Bromfield & Wm. Sydney Porter (O. Henry).
The most significant figure, perhaps, is Theodore Dreiser, who was rooted in the
region & wrote honestly & powerfully about it. Other great regional writers are
Sinclair Lewis, winner of the Nobel Prize, James T. Farrell & Richard Wright.
Earlier than these were Indiana's Edward Eggleston, one of the first realists of the
frontier; Hamlin Garland, who struck a new note in American literature with his
simple statements about "Main Travelled Roads"; Frank Norris, who portrayed the
Chicago wheat exchange in "The Pit"; & Wm. Dean Howells, friend of Garland &
critic of the frontier. Of a different order were Ring Lardner & George Ade, acute
observers of the world around them. Of more recent writers, the late F. Scott Fitz-
gerald probably had the strongest talent & a genuine message, & Sherwood Anderson
has been a potent influence on younger writers.
Chicago was the focus of the literary renascence that followed the establishment
there of the magazine "Poetry" by Harriet Monroe, in 1912. Local poets associated
with the movement were Carl Sandburg, great interpreter of Lincoln, Edgar Lee
Masters & Vachel Lindsay, all of whose work stemmed directly from their native
prairie. Other nationally known poets of the region are Paul Laurence Dunbar, Wm.
Vaughn Moody, Jas. Whitcomb Riley, the Hoosier poet, Paul Engle & Hart Crane,
who carried from his native Ohio a strong consciousness of his American background
& faith in democracy.
LAKE STATES 1
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450 OHIO RIVER TOUR OHIO
OHIO RIVER TOUR OHIO
OfflO-PA. LINE (at E. Liverpool, Ohio) (S) & (W) to OHIO-INIX LINE. (10* from
Cedar Grove, Ind.). 426. St7, US52. (See also Ind. & Ky.). t _ r ,
Via* Steubenville, Martins Ferry, Powhatan Point, Marietta, Belpre, Pomeroy, Gal-
lipolis, Ironton, Portsmouth, Aberdeen, Point Pleasant, Cincinnati, Harrison. ^
Tour follows route that Celeron de Blainville took by water in June, 1749, in what
Ohio's Harlan Hatcher calls "most diverting episode in the bloody realism of all
our early Ohio history." With 250 men in birchbark canoes, Celeron made Jus
"courtly gesture," burying, with fanfare, a small lead plate at mouth of each im-
portant creek or river, thus renewing Louis XIVs possession of the wilderness.
Shortly afterward (1750-51), Christopher Gist made a similar journey, but overland,
for Ohio Land Co. It is possible La Salle saw "La Belle Riviere" in 1669. Inds.,
traders, trappers & missionaries floated down the broad, winding stream. For 50
yrs. it carried cargo & settlers in flatboats & broadhorn three-masters & keelboats,
until, in 1811, the sky-blue "New Orleans" steamed up to the Cincinnati Landing,
1st steamboat on any Amer. inland waterway. Then came the "Comet," the "Vesu-
vius," & the famous double-decked 'Washington." By 1830, promenade decks were
spacious, & the cabins, halls & saloons were luxurious. The wealthy passengers
enjoyed elegant barrooms & gaming cabins or danced to orchestral music. Besides
the colorful passenger packets, there were floating libraries & stores & elaborate
showboats. Hundreds of packets wore out, sank, blew up, or were burned in a single
year. Their bells may be heard today in rivertown schools & churches. The big ships
carried big cargoes, & roustabouts & crew were a lusty tribe, hard-working & fear-
less; singing & brawling in port towns at the end of day. Mike Fink, "Paul Bunyan
of the Ohio country," was greatest of early boatmen. The Ohio was also a military
road from the beginning of the white man's time.
Often the river has risen in fury & devastated the cities it fostered 1832, 1857,
1883, 1884, 1890, 1913, 1936, 1937. Over & over the cities have buried their dead
& rebuilt their waterfronts. At last the great Muskingum & Miami Conservancy
Dam projects were created. Today, with its many bridges, locks & dams, the R.
meanders placidly through miles of "sweet scenery" (Mrs. Trollope, 1832), carrying
more tonnage than ever before on spreading shoals of barges. The beauty of river
& shore is unchanged, & beyond rise the ranging, forested hills.
Sec* 1: PA. LINE to MARIETTA, 131. St.7
0. EAST LIVERPOOL, noted for pottery & porcelain. 4. WELLSYDLLE, small
brick & pottery center. 8. YELLOW CREEK, where Logan, the Mingo chief, had
his home. Across R. is spot where members of his family were massacred in 1774.
On both sides of R., the steel empire extends for many miles. Slag piles stretch along
the hys., & rows of workers* houses crowd the towns. At night the sky is immensely
beautiful with flares outlining a jumble of smokestacks, furnaces, bridges, rolling
mills & loading docks.
25. STEUBENVILLE
Through RR. & bus conns. Good accoms. Market St Bridge & Ft. Steuben Bridge to
Weirton, W. Va.
This steel & coal-mining center, also known for pottery & glass, claims to be pioneer
city of Ohio valley because a little settlement, La Belle, probably survived burning
of Ft Steuben in 1790. The fort, named for Prussian officer who aided Washington,
was erected in 1786, thus antedating Marietta (see below). PTS. OF INT.: High &
Adams Sts., Site of Ft Steuben. 524 Market St., Birthpl. of E. M. Stanton. 301 Mar-
ket St, Jefferson County Cth. (1871) & Edwin M. Stanton Mon. Industrial Plants
(O.appl.) incl. Wheeling Steel Corp., Weirton Steel Co., Steubenville Coal & Mining
Co. (1856), Steubenville Pottery, & Ohio Valley Clay Co.
48. MARTINS FERRY, where steel & coal meet to make an industrial town on
site of 1st permanent settlement in Ohio (before 1785), on Ind. land. In Walnut
Grove Cemetery, Betty Zane Mon., comm. heroine of Ft. Henry (see); & Tomb of
Ebenezer Zane. 50. BRIDGEPORT, platted by Zane in 1806. US250 & US40
(Zane's Trace & Nat Rd.) enter here from W. Va.
131. MARIETTA
R. Stas. on 2nd St. for B. & O. & Pa. Bus Terminal in Postal Telegraph Office, 2nd St.
Airport: (E) 2m on US50. Good accoms. & recr. facils.
OHIO RIVER TOUR OHIO 451
Marietta is an enchanting city at meeting of Muskingum & Ohio Rs. Shady streets
climb the hills & graceful bridges conn. E. & W. Marietta & carry US21 over the
Ohio to Parkersburg, W. Va. Modern Marietta, seat of Marietta College, is the
prosperous, but still peaceful, shipping pt. & trade center for large farm area; with
various industries based on oil, sandstone & other natural resources. The 1st organ-
ized town in N.W. Terr.^was started Ap. 7, 1788, when Gen. Rufus Putnam & 48
pioneers landed the "Union Galley" below Ft. Harmar & were towed up the Mus-
kingum, During N.W. Terr. Celebration, 150 yrs. later, the long journey from
Ipswich, Mass., was re-enacted by 48 men, who traveled with ox-teams & Conestoga
wagons to Yougiogheny R. in Pa.; then in flatboats down the Ohio to Marietta,
arriving Ap. 7, 1938. The colony, named after Marie Antoinette, was successful
from the start. From this port were launched hundreds of sailing vessels & steam-
boats, incl. the "John Farnum," which carried corn to starving Ireland in 1847. In
1940's the shipyards turned out landing craft. From the days of the Coonskin Lib.
(in St. Hist. Mus., Columbus), paid for with pelts in 1804, Marietta has been a center
of cultural life.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Landing Place of Putnam's party. (2) In Muskingum Pk., "Start
Westward" Mem. (1938.Borglum), on spot where Gen. St. Clair inaugurated Terr,
gov. (3) 326 Front St., Melgs H. (1803.remod.), home of Return Jonathan Meigs,
4th Ohio Gov. (4) Cor. Washington & 2nd Sts., Campus Martius Mem. Mus. (O),
incl. Rufus Putnam H. (rest). River Mus. (1941). (5) Warren St., Moundbuilders*
"Sacra Via" from temple square, on 5th St., to Muskingum R. (6) 5th & Scammel
Sts., Mound Cemetery (1788), enclosing Conus Mound (30'). (7) Putnam & 4th Sts.,
Marietta College, high-ranking coed, college, chartered in 1835 but developed from
Muskingum Academy (1797); Lib. has Stimson Americana & Slack Hist. Colls. (8)
At Muskingum R. mouth, French Moa., gift of France (1938).
Sec. 2: MARIETTA to CHESAPEAKE. 110. St7
St.7 travels a narrowing valley on Ohio side^. 13. BELPRE (see US50). Along curv-
ing shores on both sides are favorite stopping-places for shanty-boaters. For hun-
dreds of miles, these ark-like boats drift on the slow-flowing river, getting fuel &
food from the banks.
Near Belpre (S) is Capt Jonathan Stone H. (1799). 14.5. ROCKLAND CH. J. with
dirt Rd. leading to Rockland Cemetery from which may be seen Blennerhassett L
Harman Blennerhassett, Irish aristocrat, eloped from Isle of Man with his niece,
Margaret Agnew &, to escape social ostracism, came to New York &, in 1797, to
Marietta. Ohio society was delighted by the beautiful & talented Margaret & her
scholarly husband, who bought the willow-fringed isle & created a "terrestrial para-
dise" around his gleaming white mansion. In 1805, Aaron Burr visited here &
interested the imaginative Irishman in his Western empire. Blennerhassett mort-
gaged his home & resources & began to build a fleet of boats on Muskingum R.
When Pres. Jefferson proclaimed Burr's enterprise unlawful, Blennerhassett escaped
to a rendezvous with Burr at mouth of Cumberland R. & was joined later by his
family. He was caught & taken to Richmond for trial but, after Burr's acquittal,
released. Meanwhile, militiamen had ravaged the house & grounds. Floods swept
over it the next spring &, in 1811, the ruins burned to the ground. Blenner-
hassett died on Isle of Guernsey in 1831. Margaret came to America to plead with
Congress for an indemnity. She died in poverty, at 75 Greenwich St., N.Y., in 1842.
21. LITTLE HOCKING. Just (S) is J. with St.124.
SIDE TRIP: Loop tour of Meigs Cty. Peninsula. 56. St.124, St.338. This beautiful route
must be driven carefully, as landslides from eroded cliffs sometimes clutter Rd. From steep
bluffs may be seen broad bends of the river, bright pastures & cultivated fields against
backdrop of hills. Several river dams are along the way. 5m Hockingport, on Site of Ft.
Gower (1779), from which Dunsmore departed for Pickaway Plains. 17.5^ Site of Wash-
ington's Camp, 1770. Gen, Washington later gained title to thousands of as. 21.5m near
Portland, Buffington I. Mem. St. Pk. (facils.). Here Morgan, Confed. raider, attempted to
cross R. with 2,500 men. Nearly surrounded by soldiers & gunboats, Morgan & half his
forces escaped. 25m J. with St.338, on which river trip cont. past small villages. 45m Racine.
(N) here on St.124 again to Pomeroy, 56m, J. with US33 (see) & St7, the main tour.
St7 runs inland through highland country & across Hocking R. 41. CHESTER. On
hilltop is Old Meigs County Cth. 50. POMEROY, in center of mining area circling
great Pomeroy Bend. Floods have battered the long water front, but newer Pomeroy
452 US 6 OHIO
Is rising on the slopes. 52. MTODLEPORT. Drowned by 1937 flood, the town moved
back among the hills. 66. KANAUGA. Here the Gt. Kanawha R. pours into the
Ohio. Silver Bridge to FT. PLEASANT, W. Va. (see). J. with US35 (from Charles-
ton W Va ) 70. GAIXIPOLIS, 3rd oldest Ohio settlement, named by "French Five
Hundred" in 1790; boyhood home of late O. O. Mclntyre & birthpl. of his wife.
Late in 1788, Joel Barlow & Wm. Playfair, agents of Scioto Land Co., went to Pans
brandishing a map & description of a perfect land. After fall of Bastille, it was easy
to sell 150,000 as. in a country where, they said, candles & custard grew on trees,
80-lb. catfish swam the rivers; cotton, tobacco & wheat produced abundant crops,
while hogs fattened on wilderness pastures. A group of 500 Parisian hairdressers,
craftsmen, jewellers, gourmets, gilders, watch & carriage-makers arrived at Alex-
andria, Va., in May, 1790. Their tract proved to be on Ohio Land Co. s lands, but
Scioto Land Co. brought them down the Ohio. A town of 80 cabins, with slight pro-
tection against Inds., had been prepared by Rufus Putnam, of Ohio Land Co. Here
the French were abandoned to their fate, & Scioto Co. went into bankruptcy. The
bitter winters annihilated large numbers through hunger, massacre, exposure &
cholera. In 1795, the Gov. set aside the Fr. Grant in Scioto Cty. for a few survivors.
Gallipolis became important river town after settlement by Virginians & New
Englanders.
PTS. OF INT.: 431 1st Ave., Le Magasin (FHabccomrT (N.O.1794), by 1st post-
master, a friend of Napoleon; French Garden (O). 434 1st Ave., Onr House (O.1819.
sm.fee.restaurant), famous hostelry, period furnishings; Mns. 74 Court St., O. O.
Mdtatyre's H. 76 State St, Gatewood, Mrs. O. 0. Mclntyre's H. (O.appLremod.).
81 CHAMBERSBURG. U.S. Gov. Locks & Dam (1938); largest roller-type dam
in world. 105.5. PROCTORYILLE, where Rome Beauty apple was grown in 1816.
110, CHESAPEAKE. J. with US52, on which tour cont
Sec. 5: CHESAPEAKE to USD. LINE. 185. US52
US52 runs (W) through orchards & wastelands, rocky hills <& fertile bottoms. 5.5.
BURLINGTON, founded in 1817 by Rev. Plymdale (Bapt.) for his freed slaves.
8. SOUTH POINT, at W. Va.-Ky. Line. Here US52 traverses industrial reg. that
extends into 3 states (numerous bridges). 19* IRONTON, founded by ironmaster,
John Campbell, in 1848, was important iron town until Youngstown reg. developed.
(N) 8 m is Vesuvius Recr. Ajea (camp.boat.swim.f.h.), a unit of Wayne Nat. For.
(see). 48.5. PORTSMOUTH, once a canal port, iron & RR. center, now makes shoes,
stoves & other products. In Mound Pk. is prehist. Horseshoe Mound. US52 crosses
Scioto R. & runs along high ground away from flood plain. 50. J. with St.73.
SIDE TRIP: St.73 (N) 2m to Tremper MoimdL At 12m is J. with St.371 to Shawnee St. For.
(f.camp-facils.), densely forested tract of 37,000 as.
56. FRIENDSHIP. J. with St. 125, which leads (NW) 4 m to Roosevelt Game Preserve
& Roosevelt L. Pk. (f.huntboatcamp.facils.). 91. MANCHESTER, Ohio's 4th oldest
town, founded in 1791 by Nath. Massie. 111. RIPLEY, another contented river town
until 1937 flood washed away its attractive riverfront. RANKIN H. (sm.fee), said
to have sheltered Eliza after her flight across the ice. 141. MOSCOW, one of 1st
Underground Railroad Stas. 144. US52 passes Gen. Grant's Birthpl. 165. CIN-
CINNATI (see). 185. HARRISON, at Ohio-Ind. Line.
US 6 OHIO
PA. LINE (13m f rom Conneaut Lake, Pa.) (W) to BSD. LINE (3.5* from Butler,
Ind.). 249. US6
Via: Andover, Chardon, Cleveland, Lorain, Sandusky, Fremont, Bowling Green,
Napoleon, Bryan. Good accoms. RR. bus & airline conns., pic., camp sites & resorts
along route.
Sec. 1: PA. LINE to SANDUSKY. 131.
3. Hy. turns (S) with St7 to 10. ANDOVER, tourist & trade center.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.85 (E) 2m to Pymattraing Reservoir (f.h.boat.winter sports.pic.
camp.trlrs.); U-shaped 18,000-a. lake, created by inundating immense marshland, stretching
for miles along state line, larger part in Pa. (see).
(B) On St.7 (S) llm to Kinsman (1799); birthpl. of Clarence Darrow. N. of Pub. Sq.,
Darrow Octagon H., birthpL of rioted criminal lawyer, advocate of civil liberty.
US 6 OHIO 453
27. Softly rolling country is cut by Grand R., which winds (N) to lake. 34. MONT-
VELLE. 44. CHARDON, maple-sugar center. This is ideal farm country. 62.
EUCLID. 72. CLEVELAND (see). 85. BAY VILLAGE. Huntington Pk. (bathh.).
At 27715 Lake Rd., Cahoon H. (O.1816); early furniture. 90.5. AVON L. stretches
along shore for miles, & hy. follows sometimes serene, often furious, Erie waters.
100. LORAIN, on Black R. Harbor, one of best on Gt Ls. R. is deep enough to
float the big steamers that have come down the ways since 1893 from shipbuilding
plant on E. bank. Lorain is industrial home-owned city, with good schools, play-
grounds, beaches & pks. After tornado in 1924, which brought death to 70 persons
& caused $25,000,000 damage, ruined city was rebuilt & replanted; thousands of
lilacs, flower of French Lorraine, now fill air with fragrance during Lilac Festival
(May). Settlement made by Moravians in 1787 was soon discouraged by Delaware
Inds. A trading post was est in 1807, & shipbuilding began in 1819. Lorain prom-
ised to become a metropolis, with natural harbor & possibility of RR. & canal, but
canal went to Cleveland & RR. to Elyria. A second boom came late in cent, with
est. of U.S.Steel Plant in S. Lorain.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Lorain Light (reached by boat). (2) Lake View Pk.; playgrounds,
beaches & notable rose gardens. (3) Nat Tube Co. Plant, largest in world. (4) Amer.
Shipbuilding Plant (5) Thew Shovel Co. Plant (6) Large commercial fisheries. J.
with St.58 (which leads (S) 3.5 m to J. with Rd. to Amherst, in sandstone-quarry reg.).
103.5. Ship-to-shore Radio Telephone Sta., a short distance off hy. The level sandy
beaches reach out from wooded shoreline to shallow lake (cottages.tourist camps,
amusement pks.&resort centers). Vermilion R. forks on L. in series of lagoons where
cruisers anchor. 110. VERMILION (sett. 1808), resort town & fishing center (camps,
cottages.beaches) on red-clay soil that once made ceremonial paint for the Ottawa.
121. HURON, on Huron R., was important wheat-shipping point in early 19th cent.
In 1878, Wheeling & L. Erie RR. Docks gave town new life; one of largest electri-
cally operated coal dumpers on the Ls.
SIDE TRIP: (S) 6m on St.299 to Milan, birthpl. of Thos. A. Edison. Was prosperous
shipping center until RR. era put end to its hopes. Around village square are houses with
handsome porticos & doorways, built in 1820's. Cor. Central & Front Sts. is 2-story, red-
brick house where Edison lived until he was 7.
129. CEDAR FT. CHAUSSEE (sm.f ee), leading (N) up narrow peninsula to Cedar
Point (see below), summer resort since 1882 (steamer, RH. or ferry from Sandusky),
131. SANDUSKY
Through RR. & bus serv. Good accoms. Many pks. & sports facils. Info.: C. of C,
Hotel Rieger Bldg.
Sandusky, at mouth of Sandusky Bay, is one of loveliest of Ohio cities. Bay is almost
completely enclosed bet. mainland & Marblehead Peninsula, conn, by Sandusky Bay
Bridge. On L. Erie's most spacious harbor, the port ranks among 10 largest on Gt
Ls. & is 2nd largest shipper of coal. Mechanical loaders are busy night & day pour-
ing millions of tons into holds of lake steamers. Excursion boats puff out from the
piers to Cedar Pt. & island resorts. E. of piers are markets & wineries that make
Sandusky an outstanding fresh-water fish. & wine center. Ivy-colored, blue-limestone
(local) churches & houses add to city's charm. In 17th cent, Iroquoian tribes were
in "San-doos-tee" (cool water) area, in which they had annihilated the Erie & Neu-
tral nations. White settlement began after Commodore Perry's victory at Put-in-Bay
(see below), & Irish & German settlers followed the founding New Englanders. In.
cholera epidemic, 1849, nearly 400 died. Sandusky was strategic stop on Under-
ground Railroad.
PTS. OF INT.: Battery Pk. (recr.facils.). Pa. RR. Coal Dock (3,500' long). Wineries
(O.appl.): On Water St., the blue limestone bldgs. of Dorn Co. (est.1869) & Engels
& Krudwig Co. 1702 Campbell St., Meier's Wine Cellars. 1422 Clinton St., M.
Hommel Co. (est.1878); pleasant taproom. 301 Putnam St., Nat Distillers Products
Corp. Fisheries: Lay Bros., Bickley & Port & others.
TRIPS OUT OF SANDUSKY
I. Kelleys I., Middle Bass L, Gibraltar L, S. Bass I. (Put-in-Bay), N. Bass I.
Recr. facils. Accoms. on Kelleys & S. Bass Is. Neuman Boat Line makes daily trips
(May 10-Labor Day).
Mapped by Fr. geographers in 17th cent, the archipelago was not sett, until 1830 s.
These 20 isles of dreamlike beauty were ceded to Gt Brit by Fr. in 1765; in 1783,
454 US 6 OHIO
U.S. received big Kelleys L, Bass I., Gibraltar I., & 6 smaller Is. Canada owns Pelee,
the largest of all, Middle L, Harbor I. & the Hen & Chicken & Sister groups. Is. are
in one of finest fresh-water fishing areas in country, although pollution from indus-
trial centers has almost destroyed herring & whitefish. In winter, whole villages of
shanties in rainbow colors move from one ice sheet to another, as men, women &
children join in ice fishing.
Steamer passes close to Cedar Point with its luxurious Breakers Hotel (beaches,
dance terraces.amusement & pic.grounds); then moves (N) some distance offshore
from rugged Marblehead Peninsula to Kelleys L, 9 m . Datus & Irad Kelley, in 1830's,
bought the I. & started settlement. Quarrying limestone & cutting the red cedar
were chief industries. In 1851 the Kelleys built 1st wine cellar on western L. Erie.
Glacial Grooves in St. Pk. (N) 1.5 m from dock; smoothly polished fluting in lime-
stone. Inscription Rock, on (S) shore, bears petroglyphs probably made by artist of
lost Erie tribe.
Steamer passes Ballast L (NW) 10 m from Kelleys L, to Bass L, where pickerel, perch,
carp, sheepshead & sauger far outnumber once plentiful bass & herring. Middle
Bass I. (f.boatrecr.facils.) is given over to vineyards. Lonz Winery (1884); lovely
clubh.
South Bass L (Put-in-Bay), is very popular resort (boats from Ohio cities & Detroit;
auto ferry to Marblehead.all kinds of accoms.& recr.facils.planes & boats). Inter-
lake Yacht Regatta (Aug.). It is also a wine island. In harbor is Gibraltar L, Jay
Cooke's summer home from 1865 to 1905. Ohio St. Univ. acquired the rocky islet
in 1925. F. T. Stone Laboratory (O.appl.) for study of fishery problems. At (E) end
are Jay Cooke Mansion, now dormitory, & Site of Perry's Lookout On South Bass
I. is Internat Peace Mem. Mpn., incl. Perry Mem., comm. victory in Battle of L.
Erie, Sept 9, 1813. This massive, fluted Doric column of Milford granite (352') was
erected by 9 states & Fed. Gov. (1912-15). Above observ. platform is penthouse
with navigation lights &, still higher, a lighted bronze urn. Beneath rotunda are
buried 3 Amer. & 3 Brit, officers. Perry, Mammoth & Crystal Cares. North Bass I.,
not a steamer stop, may be reached by speedboat from Put-in-Bay; vineyard area
since 1853.
n. Loop Tour of Marblehead Peninsula. 30. St.2, Bay Shore Rd., St.163, St.2.
Via: Danbury, Johnson's I., Marblehead, Lakeside, Catawba I, Port Clinton. RR. &
bus. Resorts; all kinds of accoms.; churches.
This vacationland is also famous peach-raising country. St.2 crosses Sandusky Bay
Bridge to J. with Bay Shore Rd. At 6 Wilson Boat landing (f.boats). From here
trips are made to 300-a. Johnson's L (O), Civil War prison camp, where 10,000
Confed. officers were confined. In Confed. Cemetery are 206 marked graves (num-
bered list at Sandusky C. of C.). Bay Shore Rd. parallels rim of peninsula to Marble-
head, 9.5 m , resort & quarrying center. Marblehead Light (0.1-3) is one of oldest in
Ohio (1821) & one of most graceful on Ls. Tour cont. (W) on St.163. 10.5 101 Lake*
side, "Chautauqua of the Great Lakes" (hotel & cafeteria.sm.fee for camp.). 16.5
J. with St53 (EJR.d.& W.Rd.), which loops around beautiful Catawba Peninsula
orchards. Return may be made on St.2.
Sec. 2: SANDUSKY to INB. LINE. 118.
0. SANDUSKY. 3.5. VENICE, resort. Mill (1833) still in operation. 6. J. with St269.
SIDE TRIP: (S) 2.5m on St.269 is mysterious Castalia Btoe Hole (sm.fee), named for
Apollonian spring in Greece. Looking into crystal-clear pool, one sees pictures of castled
cities & shining mts. Fish, cannot Hve in the oxygenless water.
24. FREMONT, site of Ft Stephenson & home of Pres. Hayes. J. with US20 (see).
In rolling countryside (W) are hundreds of derricks raised in 1890's when oil gushed
from Kirkbride & other wells. Lime-making is important industry. 54. BOWLING
GREEN, seat of Wood Cty., leading cattle & tomato-producing area. Big oil wells
in late 19th cent, brought glass & other factories, & ornate Viet mansions rose.
After wells ceased to flow, town became rural canter. Then, in 1914, H. J. Heinz Co.
built large plant here, & Bowling Green St Univ. was est. (1916). Notable Lib.
(1927), Airport, Arboretum. J. with US25-US68 (see US25). 79. NAPOLEON. J
with US24.
SIDE TRIP: (SW) along US24, the old canal follows Maumee R. At 4m, Girty's I., where
Simon Girty, scout for Brit, visited his brother's post. The winter before Battle of Fallen
US 20 OHIO 455
Timbers, Girty traveled among Ind. villages on the Maumee, planning their strategy. 14m
Independence St Pk. (facils.camp.f.swim.). 18m Defiance. Ft Defiance Mon. on site of
Fortress built in 1794 as challenge to "hostile Inds. of the West." Chief Pontiac's birthpL
is believed to be on opp. bank. Defiance College (Congr.) erected 1st bldg. in 1884-85;
includes Christian Divinity School.
Beyond Napoleon, US6 crosses monotonous country, once part of great Black
Swamp. 103. BRYAN, last Ohio town of any size on route. 118. IND. LINE.
US 20 OHIO
OfflO-PENN. LINE (28 from Erie, Perm.) (W) to OfflO-IND. LINE (10* from
South Bend). 257. US20
Via: Conneaut, Painesville, Cleveland, Norwalk, Fremont, Perrysburg, (Toledo), Fayette.
Through RR., bus & airline conns. Accoms.: Good throughout
US20 runs inland from L. Erie along border of Western Reserve, crosses Cleveland
waterfront, swerves (S) to Norwalk, then (NW) bypassing Toledo & (W) to state line.
Sec. 1: PENN. LINE to NORWALK. 128.
2. CONNEAUT (sett.1796), whose natural harbor makes it 1st of series of ore ports
& important station for coal & steel. Commercial fishing. At c.7.5. Eaton H. (O.
summer. 1800); beautiful Class, pillars. 15. ASHTABULA (sett. 1798), a leading ore
& coal port & busy mfg. center at mouth of Ashtabula R. By 1830's it was typical
village of New Englanders &, later, a favored Underground Railroad sta. A reso-
lution in "Ashtabula Sentinel," Dec. 21, 1850, cursed Fugitive Slave Law as designed
"to strip us of our humanity . . . and herd us with bloodhounds and men-stealers."
Hubbard Homestead (O), once haven for runaway slaves; now community house.
Lake Shore & Walnut Beach Pks. (good beaches).
26. GENEVA, sett. 1805. (5^ (N) on St.534 is Geneva on the Lake, resort). 30. J.
with Cty. Rd. to UMONVILLE, where slaves found refuge in New England H. (O),
a tavern since 1805. Throughout Western Reserve are white picket fences, taverns,
churches & houses of New England origin. 42. PAINESVILLE. In delightful
MENTOR, 49. is LawnfieM (O.sm.fee.l832)> rambling Viet mansion of Pres. J. A.
Garfield. 60. EUCLID. US20 unites with US6 to become Euclid Ave. into CLEVE-
LAND, 71. At 106. OBERLIN, with noted college (see Cleveland for pts. of int
bet. Painesville & Oberlin). 128. NORWALK, with outstanding Class. Rev. archi-
tecture. On Case & W. Main Sts., Firelands Mus. (O.Fri.Sat.aft). On W. Main St
also are Martin H. (1831), Fulstow H. (1834) & Boalt H. (1848). At 6 S. Church St,
Stewart H. (1833).
Sec. 2: NORWAUK to IND. ONE. 129.
For many miles, route lies among orchards, truck gardens & checkered fields of
rye, corn, barley & sugar beets. 13. BELLEVUE. Off St. 18 (S) are Seneca Caverns
(sm.fee).
SIDE TRIP: SU01 (SW) 20.5m to Tiffin, seat of Heidelberg College, founded in 1850 by
Reformed Church in U. S. Founders Hall. Kellers Cottage.
20- CLYDE, said to be Sherwood Anderson's 'Winesburg.'* Anderson, born in
Cam4en, spent much of childhood here. 24. J. with St. 19 (5 m (S) to Green Springs,
resort). 28. FREMONT, a good-sized city spreading out over rounded hills along
Sandusky R.; canning & beet sugar center. Wyandot villages occupying site were
destroyed by Brit, who set up outpost here in 1782. During War of 1812, George
Croghan, 21-year-old leader of 150 Amer. soldiers, defended Ft Stephenson against
attack of 700 Inds. & Brit by maneuvering his single cannon from place to place.
PTS. OF INT.: Birchard Lib. Pk., Site of Ft Stephenson. At NW. cor. is Grave of
Maj. Crogfaan & near-by is "Old Betsy," his famous cannon. J. of Hayes & Buckland
Aves., Hayes State Mem., incl. "Spiegel Grove," estate of Pres. Rutherford B. Hayes.
jflayes H. (N.O.I 859.Vict.Goth.). Within grounds also is Hayes Mausoleum (O.
1913); lib. & mus.
57.5. PERRYSBURG, an old & pretty town named for hero of Put-in-Bay. On
Front St. are: Sparford H. (1822.remod), Lamb H. (1830's); orig. woodwork &
furnishings. Hollister H. (1823), once showplace of Maumee Valley. Short distance
(SW), Ft Meigs St Pk. (facils.); remains of "Gibraltar of the Northwest" (1813).
In Cemetery lie Amer. soldiers killed in Dudley Massacre (see Maumee below). J.
456 US 20 OHIO
with US25 (see) & other main routes. Across broad Maumee R. is residential Mau-
mee, on site of Fr. Can. fort (1680). In 1794, Brit built Ft. Miami & name of city
is corruption of Miami. Bronze plaque marks spot where Col. Dudley & his Ken-
tuddans, on way to relieve Ft. Meigs, were ambushed by Brit, soldiers from Ft.
Miami. E. Wayne St. & River Rd., Hoffman's Inn (1828). At J. Detroit Ave. & US24,
Knaggs H. (1825), built for Gen. Wayne's interpreter.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US24 (SW) 3 to Fallen Timbers Mem. At 1m, in Side-Cut PL,
are limestone walls & weatherbeaten locks of Miami & Erie Canal, begun in 1825. At c.3*n,
Fallen Timbers St. Mon. (factls.), where "Mad" Anthony Wayne defeated (1794) Miami,
Shawnee, & other Ind. allies of Brit. The Inds., led by 70 Canadian rangers, had entrenched
themselves behind great trees uprooted by hurricane. Battle was decisive in struggle for
control of Northwest. US24 rises to bluffs along R. Near J. with Farnsworth Rd. is
Columbia H. (O.1818), antique shop. Beyond are Indiaaola I., resort (camp,), & along
canal, Tfrarston St Pk* (bath.camp.shelterh.).
(B) US24 (N) to Toledo, 10m.
TOLEDO
Union (RR.) Depot, foot of Knapp St.; Penn. RR., 1220 Summit St. 420 Jefferson Ave.,
Greyhound Bus Depot. Hanley & MoHne Rds. (SE) 7m, Mun. Airport. Foot of Madison
Ave. for Gt Ls. steamers. Good accoms. Ft. Miami Race Track. Sport & recr. facils.
Concerts at Mus. of Art. Show of Contemp. Amer. Art (summer). Info.: C. of C, in
Commodore Perry Hotel.
Toledo spreads for 15 miles along both sides of Maumee R., which flows (NE)
into Maumee Bay, inlet of L. Erie. City is 2nd only to Duluth-Superipr as Great Ls/
port & ranks 3rd in tonnage among U.S. ports; world leader in shipping of soft coal,
also ranking RR. center. W. & E. Toledo are conn, by high-level Anthony Wayne
Bridge & 6 other bridges. On riverfront is Site of Ft. Industry, built by Anthony
Wayne (1794), prophetically named beginning for a city of more than 650 different
enterprises, producer or distributor of coal, iron & steel, glass, chemicals, petroleum,
automobiles, machine tools, furnaces & processed foods. Whole Maumee valley was
fought over by Brit & Amer. forces (Anthony Wayne TrL). Toledo was inc. in 1837,
at conclusion of bloodless Toledo War (see Mich.). From a settlement in a swamp, the
port grew rapidly after Wabash & Erie Canal to Cincinnati. Gas & petroleum fields
(S) brought oil-refining, then glass. With development of Libbey-Owens-Ford Co.,
Toledo became the "Glass Capital." Pop. is more than 90% native born, but its
inheritance is unusually cosmopolitan. Large German, Polish, Can., Hungarian,
Eng. & Irish groups have characteristic churches, restaurants & festivals. Nearly
21,000 Negroes live in neighborhood of Brand Whitlock Homes & other areas. Mun.
gov. is founded on traditions of "Golden Rule" Jones & 4-term Brand Whitlock.
Oldest newspaper is "Toledo Blade."
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Collingwood Ave. & Islington St, Queen of the Holy Rosary
Cathedral (1931.Sp.Ren.by Wm.R.Perry), one of America's beautiful cathedrals,
said to be its 1st in Plateresque style. Rich in stained glass, frescoes, colored marbles,
incl gifts from Spain. (2) W. Bancroft St, Univ. of Toledo occupies spacious campus
& fine modern bldgs. Founded in 1872, Toledo became one of 1st mun. universities
in U.S. in 1884, now one of largest Univ. Hall (Tudor Goth.). (3) Shadowlawn Dr
Zoological Pk. & Mas. of Nat Hist (1931.Sp.). (4) 2249 Monroe St., Mns. of Art
(O); central bldg. of white marble (1901.1926.Ionic facade); School of Design &
Peristyle (concert hall) in wings (1933); founded & richly endowed by Edward
Drummond Libbey; one of finest glass colls, in world. "Christ at Gethsemane," by
El Greco. (5) Superior & Cherry Sts., St Francis de Sales (Cath.) Cathedral (1861.
Goth.). (6) Madison Ave. & Ontario St., Pub. Lib. (1890.early Norman). (7) C. & O.
Coal & Ore Bocks, on Presque Isle; 2.5 m of piers, 40 miles of trackage, room for 15
lake boats. (8) Industrial Plants (tours on appL); Libbey Glass, Electric Auto-Lite,
Toledo Scale, Willys-Overland, Woolson Spice,
TJS20 forks in Maumee. Main tour cont (N) along edge of Toledo suburbs, then
,
ffiJ? 5^ line - (US 20 ^- ran* directly (W) to Montpelier, then (N) to rejoin
US20). 68. Beyond OTTAWA HILLS (W) is reg. of "oak openings," where groves
of ancient trees are broken by patches of bog & fine yellow sand. Cooper called his
novel of pioneer Mich. "Oak Openings" because these sun-filled breaks in the wil-
derness were characteristic of Old N.W. 103. FAYETTE, shipping pt. for grain &
livestock. Hy. winds over hilly wooded country. 119. US20 Alt. rejoins main tour
129. END. ONE.
US 30 OHIO 457
US 30 OHIO
OfflO-W. VA* LINE (lm from Chester, W. Va.) (W) to OHIO-IND. ONE (20*
from Ft Wayne, Ind.). 252. US30, US30S.
Via: E. Liverpool, Lisbon, Canton, (Akron), Massillon, (Schoenbrunn), Wooster,
Mansfield, GaHon, Marion, Kenton, Lima, Delphos, Van Wert. Through RRs. &
busses. Airports at Canton (Akron), Mansfield. Marion & Lima. Alternate route on
US30 & US30N (see below). US224 is direct route some miles (N) of US30.
US30, the Lincoln Hy., crosses Chester Bridge at meeting pt. of 3 states, then winds
through hills rich in coal, down eroded gullies & among dark fors. Large industrial
centers at frequent intervals.
Sec. 1: W. VA. LINE to MARION. 152.
0. E. LIVERPOOL, leading pottery center in U.S. Jas. Bennett, of Staffordshire,
Eng., began pottery here in 1838 & peddled his teapots & tableware along Ohio R.
Modern potteries produce porcelains exquisitely designed & colored & other plants
make pottery supplies & clay novelties. Hall China Co. (tours). In Carnegie Lib,,
WsL Assoc. Mns. (O.wks.); Pottery Coll. incl. Bennett's wheel. J. with St.7 (see Ohio
R. Tour). 17. LISBON, another ceramics center. Birthpl. of Marcus A. Hanna &
Clement L. Vallandigham, Copperhead leader. Hanna was one of most powerful
figures in 1880's & one of first to exemplify frankly the tie-up bet. big business &
gov. 20. J. with St.172, which runs (NW) to Guilford L. St Pk. (f.boatswim.camp.
facils.). 26. Along here is entrance to Sandy & Beaver Canal (1834-45) to Bolivar
(S) of Canton. Many cut-stone locks in good condition. 47.5. E. CANTON (1805).
Glazed brick is chief product. Wack Tavern (O.1836).
53. CANTON
Market & 9th Sts., Pa. RR. Sta. 402-2nd St, Union Bus Terminal. Akron-Canton
Airport, (N) 10m off St.8. Good acc9ms. Recr. facils. & golf courses in numerous pks.
Meyers L. Pk. (bus.pic.bath.recr.facils.). Concerts by several music assocs. Info.: 428
Market Ave., C. of C.
Canton (sett 18 06), home of Pres. McKinley, is one of Ohio's 8 largest cities & center
of many industries, with world's largest plants making roller bearings (Tirnken),
paving bricks, rubber gloves & electric cleaners. Steel in various forms is a leading
product. Town itself is informal with air of neatness due in part to Swiss & German
watchmakers who came in late 19th cent In 1898, Henry H. Timken, carriage manu-
facturer, developed his patent for roller bearings. In Canton, in 1918, Eugene V.
Debs made speech that led to his arrest PTS. OF INT.: (1) In Westlawn Cemetery,
McKinley Tomb (by Harold V. Magonigle). Within mausoleum are buried Pres. &
Mrs. McKinley & 2 daughters. (2) Market Ave. & 8th St, Site of McKinley EL, now
occupied by Mercy Hospital. (3) Cleveland Ave. & 4th St, First Christian Ch., 2nd
largest church congr. in U.S. (4) 1717 Market Ave., Art Mus.; McKinley Coll. (5)
521 Tuscarawas St, Timken Vocational High Sch. (6) Industrial plants incl. Timken
Roller Bearing Co. (O.appl.) & Republic Steel Corp* J. with US62 & St.8.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US62 (NE) 18m is Alliance, mfg. & RR. center on Mahoning R.; seat
of ML Union College (Meth.Episc.), once attended by Presidents Garfield & McKinley;
high-ranking school, founded in 1846. Morgan Engineering Co. (O.appl.), one of largest
producers of cranes & rolling-mill machinery.
fB) On US62 (SW) 32m to MILLERSBURG. Hy. winds through lovely valley bet
Tuscarawas R. & Killbuck Cr., dotted with prosperous Amish. settlements.
(C) On St.8 (N) 23m to Akron (1825).
4KRON
Union RR. Sta., 245 E. Market St. Bus Terminal, N. Main St. at Federal St. Mun.
Airport (S) 5.5m. Good accoms. Numerous golf courses & other recr. facils. in large
pks. Rubber Bowl (stadium). Derby Downs. Portage Ls. near-by. Symphony orchestra.
Concerts, lectures & other events at Univ. Info.: 228 Ohio Bldg., C. of C. Annual Soap-
box Derby (Aug.).
Akron, Ohio's 5th city & rubber capital of the world, has nervous tempo of all
industrial centers that have grown big within very few years. Added to tnis is an
enthusiasm pervasive as the smell of rubber for technological research. The
Univ. takes vital part in city's material development. The main street follows Ohio
Canal to Little Cuyahoga R., which winds across town, & (N) the Great Cuyahoga
rushes through a rocky gorge, arched by High Level Bridge to Cuyahoga Falls.
Akron, named for its "high place" on watershed bet Gt Ls. & Miss. R., was laid
458 US 30 OHIO
out as canal town in 1825 by Gen. Simon Perkins, & in 1850's John Brown, the
"angry man of God," was Perkins' partner in the wool business. A cereal mill (now
Quaker Oats) was built in 1865. In 1870, the rubber industry began in Dr. Benj.
Franklin Goodrich's plant. As automobiles rolled out of Detroit on their rubber
tires, Akron began to boom & the "Rubber Rush" brought thousands of workers.
During World War I, facils. were developed for building big dirigibles & balloons.
In 1935-36, sit-down strikes involved the 3 giant rubber companies. During 1940's
many millions were spent on modern research labs., & engineering college of Univ.
took outstanding position. To offset factory routine, Akron has good pub. school &
pk. system, Pub. Lib., AJ! Institute, Symphony Orchestra, the Rubber Bowl & Derby
Downs.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) B. F. Goodrich Rubber Co., Akron's oldest factory. (2) Good-
year Hre & Rubber Co. (3) Firestone Hre & Rubber Co. (4) Gen. Tire & Rubber
Co. (5) Quaker Oafs Co., on site of old mill, 1853. Tours on appl. in above plants.
(6) Goodyear Blvd. & E. Market St, Goodyear Industrial Institute, for employees
& families. (7) Near Municipal Airport, Goodyear Air Bock (N.O.), where "Macon"
<fe "Akron" were built (8) Firestone Research Lab. (O.appl.l945.by Walker,Foley
& Smith), the $2,000,000 rubber institute. (9) High & Market Sts., Pub. Lib. (1904.
Gr.Rev.by F.O.Weary). (10) Mill & N. Main Sts., Central Tower (1931.set-back.by
Walker & Weeks), tallest bldg. (11) 299 S. Broadway, Old Stone Sen. (1840's). (12)
Cor. Copley & Diagonal Rds., John Brown EL (c.1825), bequeathed to Summit Cty.
Hist. Soc. by Mrs. C. E. Perkins. (13) Cor. Copley Rd. & S. Portage Path, Perkins
Mus., formerly Perkins Mansion (1831). (14) Univ. of Akron, coed., fully accredited.
Buchtel College (Universalist), now College of Liberal Arts, was founded in 1870
& named for its benefactor, J. R. Buchtel; given to city in 1913. Buchtel Hall (Gr.
Rev.); Carl F. Kolbe Hall, housing Bierce Lib. (O). Phillips Art Coll. is in Phillips
HalL Near Mun. Airport, Guggenheim Airship Institute (O.appl.1932), part of
engineering college. (15) On Manchester Rd., Baptist Temple (ded. 1949), unique
modern edifice costing $1,000,000. Unusual features in this theater-like bldg. are
soundproof "Babyland" & floodlighted River Jordan baptistery.
60.5. MASSILLON, industrial city at entrance to Muskingum Conservancy Dist.
(14 dams). The wife of Jas. Duncan, one of founders, named town for Fr. bishop
who opened funeral oration on Louis XTV with famous sentence, "Dieu seul est
grand." PTS. OF INT.: Union Drawn Steel Division, of Republic. Lincoln Way &
E. 2nd St., Jas. Duncan EL (1830), housing Pub. Lib. & Baldwin Mus. North Ave.
& 2nd St, Home of Jacob S. Coxey, leader of famous "march in boots'* in 1894.
Coxey was arrested for walking on the grass & his "Army" dispersed, but Massillon
made him mayor in 1932 in honor of his prophetic plan for Fed. work relief. Mas-
sillon is at J. with US21.
SIDE TRIP: US21, St.16 (S) 40m to Gnadenhutten. Tour of Ft. Laurens, Zoar Village &
Schoenbmnn St. Mems. At 13.5m is J. with St212.
(E) 6m on St.212 to Bolivar, from which Rd. leads (E) to Bolivar Dam. Ft Laurens St,
Mem., (S) of village, on site of only Amer. fort in Ohio during Rev.; built in 1778 &
named for Henry Laurens of S. Carolina. At 9m Zoar Village St. Mem. 11.5m Zoars-
ville. In 1817-18, German Separatists came into Tuscarawas Valley & est. communal
corporation which lasted until 1898; named by leader, Jos. Bimeler, for city to which
Lot fled from Sodom. Among low, picket-fenced cottages are log cabins & other orig.
bldgs. Mem. Mus. (O.Ap.-Nov.sm.fee), palatial home of founder. Zoar Garden illus-
trates New Jerusalem.
22m Dover, once German settlement at collector's port on canal, now busy coal iron &
steel center. Werther Mus. (O.sm.fee); handcarved models of locomotives & steel mills, 24m
New Philadelphia (1809), in midst of hist. Moravian country. Schoenbninn Village St.
MenMO.camp.pic.) covers site of viUage est b y Moravian missionaries in 1772. Schoolh.,
P 1 -, & * 3 Cabins rebuilt & furnished. In this luxuriant valley, David Zeisberger & other
leaders built .villages for Christianized Delaware Inds. In 1777 the village was abandoned
because of But hostility & unfriendly Inds. who later destroyed it 40m Guadenhutten
Mon A simple shaft marks Site of Massacre, in 1782, of 90 or more Christian Delaware
Inds. by Amer. soldiers under Col. David Williamson. The Delaware brethren who were
never armed, had been sent, with their leaders, to "Captives Town" near Upper Sandusky
(see below). Allowed to return to their villages for provisions, they were attacked by Pal
militia who were scouting for marauding Inds.
^l of Massillon crosses one of most fertile counties in U.S. Pure-bred horses
& nerds of sheep & cattle graze in rich pastures along shady creeks. St. Agric. Exper.
Sta. has 1,000-a. farm. 82.5. WOOSTER, scene of big Cty. Fair. College of Wooster
US 30 OHIO 459
(Presb.), founded in 1870, grants A.B. degree in arts & music. Bldgs. (ColLGoth.)
are attractive modern structures. 100. HAYESVHXE.
114. MANSFIELD
Through RR. & bus conns. Mun. Airport. Good accoms. & recr. facfls. Info.: C. of C.
Mansfield is important industrial city & trade center for wide area. Around red-
brick Cth. & Pub. Sq. are smart shops & modern office bldgs., & streets lead off from
pleasant residential sees, to some of state's finest farmlands. According to tradition,
Johnny Appleseed saved town from Ind. raiders during War of 1812 by running to
Mt. Vernon to give alarm. John Sherman, brother of Civil War general & best
known for Anti-Trust Act, practiced law here in 1840's. Louis Bromfield used his
native town as scene of early novels & celebrated Richland Cty. with nostalgic fervor
in 'The Farm." PTS. OF INT.: 200 E. 5th St, Westingfaouse Electric & Mfg. Co.
(O). (2) W. Park Ave., in South Pk., Pioneer Biockh. (1814). In Middle Pk., Johnny
Appleseed Mon. In center of city, Soldiers & Sailors Mem. H.; Mem. Mus. (6). US30
forks in Mansfield (see Alternate Tour below).
US30S runs down through dense fors. & undulating farmlands to valley of Little
Scioto R. 129. GALION, sett, by Pa. Germans in 1830's. Gallon Iron Works. 126.
IBERIA, once Underground Railroad Sta. Pres. Harding attended Ohio Central
College (closed) here. 142. CALEDONIA. On South St is Harding's boyhood home.
152. MARION, the town most closely associated with Pres. Harding. Here he edited
the "Star" & carried on "front porch campaign" & here he & Mrs. Harding are
buried. Marion is widely known for steam, electric & diesel shovels & other large-
scale digging machinery. On W. Center St. is Marion Steel Shovel Co. (O.appl.), &
on N. Greenwood St., the orig. Huber Mfg. Co. (O.appL). At 380 Mt. Vernon St,
Harding H. (O.sm.fee); some orig. furnishings. On US23, (S) side of town, Harding
Mem. (1931. by Henry Hornbustle & Eric F. Wood). Long formal approach leads
to circular structure with Doric colonnade, enclosing open court & tombs of Pres.
& Mrs. Harding.
Sec. 2: MARION to BSD. LINE. 100. US30, US30S.
0. MARION. US30 speeds (W) through farm country broken by few towns. 26.5.
KENTON, named for scout of Boone & Geo. Rogers Clark. Kenton Hardware
Factory (O.appl.) makes more iron & steel toys than any other U.S. plant. Beyond
Kenton the Scioto Marsh (25,000 as.) begins, noted for vast onion beds, potato &
truck fields. 38.5. J. with St.69, which leads (N) 2.5 m to Ada, seat of Ohio Northern
Univ., founded in 1871 as normal sch.; has colleges of arts, law, pharmacy & engk
neering. 55. LIMA (fine^ recr.f acils. in Mun. & Faurpt City pks.). Oil pipes from
Tex. & Okla~ flow into big refinery S. of town. Other important industries (O.appl.)
are Lima Locomotive Works; Superior Body Co., makers of school busses; Diesel-
Wemmer-Gilbert Corp., large cigar factory; & Westmghouse Electric & Mfg. Co.
In Mem. Hall is Allen Cty. Hist Mus.; excellent pioneer coll.
At c.65. Leslie Peltier's Observatory (O) has modern telescope presented by Harvard
Univ. Peltier's Comet was discovered by the brilliant amateur in 1936. 71. DEL-
PHOS, canning & honey center. Here the 2 branches of US30 reunite. Old Miami &
Erie Canal, which once made Delphos a larger city than Lima, is utilized by local
factories. Digging the canal was hazardous job, & German, Norweg. & Irish diggers
died by hundreds of "canal chills" & cholera or in fights & accidents. 85. VAN
WERT should be visited in June when its famous peonies bloom. 100. IND. LINE
ALTERNATE TOUR. W. VA. LINE to IND. LINE. 241. US30, US30N
Via: Mansfield, Bucyras, Upper Sandusky, Delphos.
0. W. VA. LINE. Tour is on US30 to MANSFIELD, 114. At 120.5. J. with Rd. to
Doolittle H. (c.2 m NW.), famous link on Underground Railroad. Hy. crosses water-
shed to CRESTLINE, 126.5. 139. BUCYRUS, another town making roadbuilding
& farm machinery; also copper kettles & clay products. Bucyras Copper Kettle
Works (O.appl.).
156. UPPER SANDUSKY, overlooking broad valley, where Wyandot Inds. lived
until removed beyond Miss. R., 1843. Cty. is named for these Inds. who fought for
their homes & cornfields. On almost every Rd. is marked site comm. the bloody
hist. It was here to Captives Town that the Christian Delaware were brought from
their Moravian villages in 1782 (see above). PTS. OF INT.: On plateau, S, 4th St.,
460 US 40 OHIO
Wyandot Cemetery. Near-by is Wyandot Mission (rebuilt in 1889) on Site of 1st
Meth. Episc. mission in Ohio (1821). John Stewart Mon. comm. 1st Meth. mis-
sionary, a mulatto. Wyandot & Spring Sts., in County Cth., Wyandot Cty. Hist &
ArcheoL Soc. Mus. (O).
176* WILLIAMSTOWN, on route of Gen. Hull's march to Detroit in 1812. On
US68 (N) c.!0 m is granite Hull's TrL Mon. 212. DELPHOS, where US30N &
US30S reunite. 241. IND. LINE.
US 40 OHIO
OfflO-W. VA. LINE (1 from Wheeling, W. Va.) (NW) to OHIO-IND. LINE (4
from Richmond, Ind.). 232. US40 .
Via: Bridgeport, Morristown, Fairaew, Cambndge, Zanesville, Hebron, Columbus,
Springfield, Lewisburg. Accoms.: Excellent. RR, bus & airplane conns.
US40 follows Zane's Trace & Nat. Rd., over which an endless cavalcade streamed
westward white-hooded wagons carrying thousands of emigrants. Stone bridges
over which they crossed broad streams are still standing, as are t many taverns that
sprang up in wake of the roadbuilders. The restless, cheerful spirit of the pioneers
sings in the names of coaches & taverns. Pocahontas, Gentle Annie, Henry Clay &
Rough & Ready were gaily colored Concord coaches, & favorite taverns were the
Buck, Golden Ram, Orange Tree, the Hope & Anchor.
Sec. 1: W. VA, LINE to COLUMBUS. 127.
US40 enters state over Belmont Bridge across Ohio R., then crosses rich coal reg.
& timbered ridges & flat farmlands of Muskingum R. valley. 0. BRIDGEPORT
(1808), New England settlement J. with US250 & St.7 (see Ohio R. Tour).
SIDE TRIP: On US250 (NW) 23m to Cadiz. At llm i s J. with St.150.
(E) 4m on St.150 is Mt. Pleasant, sett, by Quakers. 1st Abolitionist newspaper, "Tho
Philanthropist" was published here in 1817, & Abolitionist Convention assembled in
1837. Ohio Yearly Meeting H. (O.appl.l816.Class.Rev.).
23m Cadiz, center of rich coal, gas & oil area; also known for Delaware sheep & short-
horn cattle. (N) c.!2m from Cadiz is Coster MODU (facils.) in New Burnley, birthpl. of Genu
Geo. A. Custer (see).
US40 runs for more than 70 m through richest coal country, climbing steeply
graded slopes & traversing narrow valleys. Eroded ravines lead off into somewhat
desolate country, & along route are mining villages, with row upon row of similar
houses, piles of slack & mounds of earth. 10. ST. CLAffiSVILLE (1804), seat of
most productive coal cty. but not a miners' town. Lundy H., in which Quaker Benj.
Lundy founded Union Humane Soc., 1815. 20. MORRISTOWN (1802), once toll
sta. on Nat Rd. The many-chimneyed red-brick houses with pitched roofs are
exactly like their Pa. prototypes. Other early stagecoach stops are HENDRYS-
BURG, 25. & FAIRVIEW, 29.5. In contrast are the numerous small mines cut into
the hills along hy. & (S) the great shaft mines of Belmont & Guernsey Ctys. 34.5.
MIDDLEB0URNE, tourist stop since 1820's. Hayes Tavern, now Locust Lodge (O),
was built by Greenberry Penn & is still operated by descendant of Wm. Penn. From
Middlebourne (W) 2 m is one of Abridges used in numerous places, probably to
avoid cutting down some huge tree in path of Nat. Rd. 41. in OLD WASHINGTON,
are 2 excellent examples of commodious stagecoach taverns. Colonial Inn (O.I 8 05)
had 20 rooms, floored in oak with woodwork of walnut & rosewood. Pine Tree Inn
(O). 49. CAMBRIDGE, dairying & livestock center; on high ridge beyond strip-
mining area. Cth. & many downtown bldgs. are nearly as old as Nat. Rd., but there
are also plastics & other modern plants &, a short distance (N), beautiful Fetcher
Hospital. Cambridge Glass Co. (O.appl.), turns out hundreds of handblown pieces.
58. NEW CONCORD, literally created by Zane's Trace & a college town from its
beginning. Muskingum College (founded 1836), coed., has beautiful hilly campus.
Opp. entrance is log cabin BirthpL of Wm. Rainey Harper (1856-1906), graduate of
Muskingum & for 15 yrs. pres. of Chicago Univ. (see). A mile beyond Cambridge
is another S-bridge (1828).
73. ZANESVILLE (1797)
Market & 2nd Sts., B. & O. & Penn. RR. Sta. N. 5th St. near Market St., Union Bus
.Terminal. Accoms.: Good. Mun. Stadium. Info.: 45 N. 5th St., C. of C.
US 40OHIO 461
This hist, city at meeting of Muskingum & Licking Rs. is noted for its faience &
ceramic tile dishes, bowls, vases & art objects. Y Bridge, at foot of Main St., uniting
3 sees, of city, is 3rd on this site since 1814 & 1 of 3 in the world. Pottery-making
began in early 1800's & early Zanesville goblets & pitchers are collectors' items.
In 1769, Ebenezer Zane, with his 2 brothers, founded Wheeling. Then, during Rev.
War, Col. Zane was practically in charge of defense of Ft. Henry (see). In 1797-98,
with permission of Congress, Zane hacked the Trace from his Wheeling empire
to Maysville, Ky., a narrow road walled by fors. & ribbed by roots of ancient trees,
dusty in summer & muddy in spring. By 1830, more than 70 taverns had opened
along route. In payment, Zane received tracts at 3 important river crossings (Zanes-
ville, Lancaster & Chillicothe). The Muskingum site was given to Jonathan Zane &
John Mclntire, who created Zanesville, even had it designated St. capital (1810-12).
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Lexington Ave. & Pershing Rd., Mosaic Hie Co. Plant, probably
largest in world. (2) Ceramic Ave., Weller Pottery. (3) Linden Ave., Roseville
Pottery. At Maple & Adair Aves., (4) Art Institnte (O.wks.); Muskingum Cty.
Pioneer & Hist. Soc. exhibits. (5) 705 Converse Ave., Birthpl. of Zane Grey, great-
great-grandson of Ebenezer Zane. (6) Woodlawn Ave. & Washington St., Oldest EL
(1804.adds.). (7) 113 Jefferson St, Robbins H. (1809), academy, Underground Rail-
road sta. & home of Elizabeth Robbins, novelist.
SIDE TRIP: On US22 (SW) 21m to Somerset. At 5m, Five Mile H, (1830), 17-room stone
tavern. 15m Sego. 21m Somerset About 0.5m from village, on Stl3, is Phil Sheridan's Boy-
hood H.
US40 crosses central plain, fertile whether rolling or level. 78. Headley Inn (O.
summer), serving travelers as it did when Usual Headley built 1st unit of speckled
sandstone. 86. J. with St.668, which leads (N) 3m to Flint Ridge Mem. St Pk. (camp,
facils.), where Inds. chipped jasper & chalcedony. 127. COLUMBUS (see), state
capital.
Sec. 2: COLUMBUS to IND, LINE. 105.
0. COLUMBUS
43. SPRINGFIELD
Washington St, N.Y.C. RR. Sta.: Limestone & Union Sts., Perm. RIL Sta. Greyhound
& other bus lines. Mun. Airport (S) 6m bet, US68 & St72. Good accoms. & recr. facils.
Info.: E. Columbia St, Auto. Club.
Springfield, in Mad R. valley, Ohio's 9th city, seat of Wittenberg College, is in-
dustrial & trade center for rich farm territory; home of Crowell-Collier Publishing
Co. It is known also for its many roses. Narrow streets & massive 19th cent, brick
& stone bldgs. give older part a somber, crowded appearance, but downtown bldgs.
& fine homes on the slopes indicate a prosperous modern town. In (SW) sec. are
the homes, mostly nondescript, of large Negro pop. Chief manufactures are diesel
& gas engines, agric. & other heavy machinery, motor trucks & auto parts; extensive
nurseries. In 1798, the Kentuckian, Jas. Demint, built cabin on Buck Cr. In 1830's,
Springfield was terminus of Nat. Pike, the jumping-off place into the wilderness.
Crowell-Collier is development of "Farm & Fireside," house organ of P. P. Mast's
Cultivator Plant in 1870's. At that time, Springfield was also concerned with Win.
Whiteley's Champion binder & reaper (taken over by Internat Harvester Co.).
/TS. OF INT.: (1) Wittenberg College, on slope overlooking city; founded in 1845
^y Luth. Ch.; coed, school of standing. (2) E. High St., St. Raphael Ch.; windows
designed by Mayer of Munich. (3) E. High & Spring Sts., Arder Pub. Lib. (1890.
Richardson Romanes.). (4) Limestone & North Sts., Covenant (Presb.) Ch. (1917.
Gothuby GeaD.Savage). (5) W. High St., Crowell-Collier Plant (O.guides), one of
largest publishing plants in world. (6) Lagonda Ave. & Buck Cr., Internat Harvester
Co. (tours). (7) Columbia St Cemetery (pioneers). (8) E. High St. & Greenmount
Ave., Westcott H. (1905;Frank Lloyd Wright). (9) On Masonic Home grounds,
Madonna of the TrL Mon.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US68 (N) 24m to W. Liberty, via Urbana. At 5m Hunt Tavern
(1830), on site of Simon Kenton's home in 1803. At 14m Urbana (1805), a quiet country
town with sm. industries. PTS. OF INT.: (1) Urbana Univ., coed., founded by Ch. of the
New Jerusalem in 1850; coll. of Swedenborgian literature. (2) At E. limits, Oakdale
Cemetery, where Simon Kenton, Ind. fighter, is buried. J. Q. A. Ward Mon., reprod. of
sculptor's own "The Ind. Fighter." (3) In Mon. Sq., J. Q. A. Ward's Soldiers' Mon. (4) 510
S. Main St., Brand Whiflock H., birthpl. of novelist who became Toledo's reform mayor
462 US 50 OHIO
& U.S. Minister to Belgium. (6) McDargh Mns. (O.appl.); hist, colls. At 24m, w. Liberty.
On St275 (W) of town is Site of Mac-0-Chee Town, Shawnee village destroyed in 1786.
Beyond on country Rd. is Mac-O-Chee Chateau (O.sm.fee.1864); hist. coll. Farther (E)
on St.275 is J. with St.287, which leads to Mac-O-Chee Castle (O.sm.fee.facils.), built by
Col. Don Piatt, whose newspaper, "Washington Capitol," attacked Credit Mobilier & other
political scandals. . , ^ ^
(B) On US68 (S) 10m from Springfield to Yellow Springs, seat of Antioch College, nation-
ally known for cooperative work-study plan. Founded in 1853 by Horace Mann, Antioch
was pioneer in admitting students regardless of color, creed or sex. Horace Mann Lib* on
site of Mann's home. Fels Research Institute BIdg. (1947), gift of Sam. S. Fels, of Phila.,
for "Study of Man." Mann MOIL in Bryan For. St. Pk. (f.camp.facils,). From Yellow
Springs, (S) 14.5^ on US68, Oldtown, on Site of Old Chillicothe, Shawnee settlement where
Ban. Boone was adopted into tribe. 18m Xenia, rural trading center with large Negro pop.
(NE) 3m on US42 is Wilberf orce, Negro cultural center & seat of Wilberforce Univ.,
named for Eng. abolitionist; founded in 1856 by Meth. Episc. Ch. Purchased, 1863, by
African M. E. Ch., it is now ranking coed, school offering normal, theological & in-
dustrial courses. At 8* is Cedarville, home of Cedarville College & Theological Sem-
inary of Reformed Presb. Ch.; founded in 1887.
49. J. with St.369
SIDE TRIP: On St.369 (S) 2.5m to Geo. Rogers Clark Mem. St Pk. (f.facils.no camp.),
where Clark defeated the Shawnee, Aug., 1780. In (SW) sec. is Clark MOBU
63.5. TAYLORSVILLE DAM, built on Miami R. after 1913 flood. 66.5. VAN-
DALIA, home of Amer. Trap-shooting Assoc. Grand Amer. Meet (Aug.). J. with
US25 (see) to Dayton. US40 crosses Stillwater R. over Englewood Dam, largest in
Miami Dist (4,700' x 125' x 1250; large pk. (camp.pic.shelter). 74. ENGLEWOOD,
Mennonite & Dunkard village. 87. LEWISBURG, (S) l m from hy.; trading center in
orchard belt. 105. IND LINE.
US 50 OHIO
OfflO-W. VA. ONE (Parkersburg, W. Va.) (W) to OHIO-IND. LINE (4 from
Richmond, Ind.) 213. US50
Via: Belpre, Little Hocking Guysville, Athens, Albany, McArthur, Chillicothe, Bain-
bridge, Hillsboro, Fayetteville, Cincinnati. RR., bus & airplane conns. & good accoms.
in larger towns. Route crosses Hocking R, valley, Wayne Nat. For. & hilly (SW)
country.
Sec. 1: W. VA. LINE to CfflLLICOlHE. 97.
US50 crosses Parkersburg-Belpre Bridge. 0. BELPRE, in lush orchard country;
sett, by Rev. War veterans from Marietta (1789). J. with St.7 (see Ohio R. Tour),
with which US50 unites for short distance. Near Belpre is Jonathan Stone H. (1799).
2* ROCKLAND. Trips to Blennerhasset I. (see Ohio R. Tour). 3.5. Putnam H.
(1800); "witch" doors with cross-shaped panels. 8. LITTLE HOCKING. US50
turns from Ohio R. & in COOLVILLE, 16.5., crosses the Hocking. 38. ATHENS,
situated on hills along R.; trade center & home of some 5,000 students. Ohio Univ.,
1st land-grant college in U.S. (inc. 1802). When Gen. Rufus Putnam org. Ohio. Co. in
1787, he recommended to Congress that 4 townships be set aside for univ., but he
could not bring surveying crew until after Treaty of Greenville. Athens was laid
out in 1799, & with it the univ. campus. Mem. Elms, honoring Wm. Holmes Me-
Guffey, Pres. of Univ. (1839-43) & compiler of "McGuffey Readers." Cutler Hall
(1817.by Benj.Corp.), oldest college bldg. in N.W. Terr. J. with US33 (see) & St.56.
SIDE TRIP: On St.56 (W) 10m to J. with St.356, route (S) into Waterloo St. For. (camp,
facils.). 14m J. with St.278, route (S) to Zaleski St For. (lswim.boat.pic.camp.).
US50 cont. through sparsely settled hill country, from which the once important
salt works & iron furnaces are long gone. Scattered homes on barren slopes or
along rocky ravines are poor & way of lif e is primitive.
97. CHILLICOTHE
Main & Sugar Sts., Union RR. Sta. 42 E. Main St., Union Bus Terminal. Accoms. Golf
& other recr. facils. Numerous pub. for. pks. in vie. Info.: 15 W. Second St., C. of C.
Chillicothe, 1st capital of Northwest & of Ohio, was perhaps also capital city of
prehist. people who built mounds on which it stands. Sett. 1796, it is now important
farm market & industrial center, situated bet. Scioto R. & Paint Cr., with Mt. Logan
standing sentinel to the N. The aristocratic tradition lingers, & along the main streets
are many elegant Gr. Rev. mansions. In 1782, Nath. Massie surveyed site, but
US 25 OHIO 463
settlement was not begun until 1796. Chillicothe became capital of N.W. Terr, in
1800 & st capital in 1803 (1803-10 & 1812-16). Paper-making, still a leading in-
dustry, began in 1812. City has fine Carnegie Lib. & good schools, incl. 2 high
schools for Negro pop. PTS. OF INT.: (1) Paint & Main Sts., Ross County C&.
(1855.mod.Gr.Rev.by RCollins); Site of 1st Capitol at rear. (2) 45 W. 5th St., Ross
Cty. Hist. Mus. (O). (3) Paint St. bet. 5th & 6th Sts., Pub. Lib. (1907), directed for
many yrs. by Burton Stevenson, founded of Amer. Lib. in Paris. (4) Mulberry &
4th Sts., Ind. Burying Ground; pioneer graves also. (5) E. Main St., Gen. St Claims
Hqs. (1798). (6) Arch & High Sts., Site of Cress Keys Tavern (1797). (7) In Grand-
view Cemetery, S. Paint St., are graves of Nath. Massie & early governors. (8) At
S. end of Main St., Mead Corp. Plant (O.appL), home office of very large paper
co.; 16 plants. (9) Off Eastern Ave., Chillicothe Paper Co. Plant (O.appL),
makers of quality papers. (10) McArthur St., S. of 7th St., U. S. Shoe Corp. Plant
(O.appL). (11) At W. end of Allen Ave., Adena (1798.probably by Latrobe), estate
of Thos. Worthington, Ohio Gov. (1814-18) & U. S. Sen. Adena Mound, which stood
on estate, disclosed carved ornaments & woven fabrics.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) US23 (N) 12m. At 3.5m Mt Logan, over which Wm. Creighton, Ohio
Secy, of State & Gov. Tiffin saw one morning in 1803 "the rising sun of a new state" (as on
Ohio seal). 4m Hopetown (moundbuilder) Works. At 12m j. with St.361, which leads (E) 1m
to Logan Ehn St. Pk^ around immense tree where Logan, Mingo chief, made celebrated
speech of reproach in 1774, after massacre on Ohio Rl near Yellow Creek (see Ohio R.
Tour & Wheeling, W. Va., Trip III).
(B) US23 (S) 9m to 9,000-a. Scloto TYL St Pk. (f.camp.piaaU facils.). 22.5m Waverly. J.
with St.112, Towpath Rd. past L. White St Pk.; summer resort.
(C) St.104 (NW) 1.5m to U.S. Industrial Reformatory & U.S. Veterans Hospital. (N) of
reformatory is Mound City Pk. (camp.facils.); 23 mounds somewhat restored.
Sec. 2: CHILLICOTHE to IND. LINE. 116.
US50 winds bet high ranging hills; then along Paint Cr., where Inds. came for
colored clays. Reg. is often called Valley of the Kings, because of prehist earth-
works. More than 350 mounds were found in Ross Cty. alone. At c.5. HOPEWELL
MOUNDS, 1st mapped in 1820. 17. SEIP MOUND ST. PK. (facils.); mound (250'
x 150' x 30 r ) was central tumulus of large group. 21. BAINBRIDGE. In backwoods
around & beyond are shacks & dingy settlements of the hill people. Just (W) of town
is J. with St.4L
SIDE TRIP: On St.41 (S) 21m to Locust Grove. At c.l2m Ft Hill St Mem. (camp.facils.);
1,000 forested as., around one of best-preserved prehist fts. in state. 21m Locust Spring.
J. with St.73; (W) 4m on St73 to Serpent Mound, largest & most fascinating effigy mound
in America.
US50 enters ROCKY FORK GORGE on Paint Cr. At c.26., SEVEN CAVES (il-
luminated), along trl. notable for diversity of flora. 38. HSLLSBORQ (1807), live-
stock trading center. 55. FAYETTEVILLE, J. with US68.
SIDE TRIP: On US68 (N) 20m to Wilmington, seat of Wilmington College & urban center
of rich dairy & farming area. Clinton County Cth. (Class.Rev.) is one of most pleasing of
Ohio's fine cths. Wilmington College, Quaker institution inc. in 1875 on site of Franklin
College (1866); coed.; nonsectarian student body.
94. CINCINNATI (see). Hy. crosses city & follows Ohio R. (W)/ 116* IND. LINE.
US 25 OHIO
MICH. LINE (51 from Detroit) (S) to KY. LINE (at Cincinnati). 211. US25
Via: Toledo, Maumee, Perrysburg, Bowling Green, Findlay, Bluffton, Lima, Wapa-
koneta, Piqua, Troy, Dayton, Miamisburg, Sharonville. Through RR. & bus conns. &
good accoms. all along route. US23 & US24 also enter here from Mich. & US68 begins
route roughly parallel to US25.
US25, the Dixie Hy., runs (N-S) across W. Ohio, first enters Maumee R. valley,
made famous by Gens. Wm. Harrison & Anthony Wayne; now has internat repu-
tation for concentration of industry.
Sec. 1: MICH. LINE to PIQUA. 130.
3.5. US25 unites with US24. 4. TOLEDO (see). 14. MAUMEE (see). J. with US20
(see). Across Maumee R. is PERRYSBURG. US25 unites with US68. 27. BOW-
LING GREEN, seat of Bowling Green St. Univ. J. with US6 (see), (for this sec. see
Toledo). Beyond Bowling Green is oil country, & wells are scattered around this
464 US 25 OHIO
excellent farming area. 41. N. BALTIMORE (short distance W. of hy.) & 43. VAN
BUREN were once oil centers. 51. FINDLAY (1821). Industrial & oil center; seat
of Findlay College. Town grew up with oil boom in late 19th cent. Has large
foundries, refineries & clay-products plants. In 1860's D. R. Locke, editor of "Find-
lay Jeffersonian" & later of "Toledo Blade," had nat. audience for his letters of
"Petroleum Vesuvius Nasby," a stupid Copperhead whose arguments made Con-
federacy appear ridiculous. Findlay College, small but first-rate coed, school, &
Winebrenner Graduate Sch. of Divinity (Churches of God) have campus in E. sec.
US25 & US68 separate here.
SIDE TRIP: On US68 (S) to Bellefontaine 48m. At 4m HuH's TrL Mon,, comm. march of
Ohio militia in 1812. 27m Kenton, prosperous town on Scioto R. J. with US30S (see). 48m
Bellefontaine, on highest land in Ohio; seat of Logan Cty., leading producer of alfalfa &
rye. OS St.275 (E) 7m are Zane Caverns (1 hr.tour). J. with US33, route to Indl L. St. Pk.
(f.h.boatcamp.facils.). Scattered oil pumps, tanks & refineries shine in the fields (SW) of
Findlay.
69. BLUFFTON, est by Mennonite & Swiss settlers in 1833. Bhiffton College (1900)
is Mennonite school, coed. & accredited. 75. BEAVERDAM. J. with US30N (see).
84. LIMA (see US30). US25 crosses Ottawa R. 97. WAPAKONETA, on Auglaize
R. J. with US33 & St. 198.
SIDE TRIP: On US33 (W) llm to St Marys, once known as Girty's Town, main supply
depot in Ind. Wars, being end of portage from Ft. Laramie (S). By treaty signed here, 1818,
the Wyandot, Shawnee & Ottawa gave up large tracts for settlement. From St Marys, St.29
runs along (N) edge of Grand L. (St Marys), largest inland L. in Ohio. Near Ceiina, at
(NW) cor., is Grand L. St Pk. (f.h.camp. resorts).
(S) 9.5m on US127 from Ceiina to J. with St.119; (W) 8m on Stll9 to Ft. Recovery St.
Pk. (campjfacils.), on site of Gen. St. Clair's defeat in 1791 & Gen, Wayne's return in
1793. Stockade (reprod.).
At 117. on US25 is SIDNEY, named for Eng. poet. On Ohio & Court Sts., is a Louis
Sullivan Bank Bldg., 130. PIQUA, industrial town on Great Miami R.; known
widely for knitted wear & textiles. Long before Piqua became canal port, it was
meeting place for Ind. tribes, particularly beloved by the Shawnee, small inde-
pendent tribe originating in Florida, near Suwanee R. Tecumseh, the Shooting Star,
perhaps greatest among hist. Inds., was born here in 1768. About 1752, the French
destroyed Miami village of Pickawillany & built Ft. Piqua, (N) 3 m from present
town. Around ft. the Shawnee had their villages of Upper & Lower Piqua. Lower
Piqua was destroyed by Geo. Rogers Clark in 1780 & again by Simon Kenton in
1782, Near Piqua is Pickawillany Mon.
Sec. 2: PIQUA to KY. LINE. 81.
US25 follows Miami R. & route of M. & E. Canal through fertile valley 19. VAN-
DALIA. J. with US40 (see).
28. DAYTON
Ludlow & 6th Sts., Union RR. sta. 145 W. 4th St, Greyhound Bus Sta. Mun. Airport
(N) 10m at Vandalia. Accoms.: good. Sports facils. Theaters (stage & screen). Mont-
gomery Cty. Fair (Sept.). Shows at Art Institute. Folk festivals. Mo.; C. of C in
Biltmore Hotel. '
Dayton, Ohio's 6th big city, home of Wright Brothers & Paul Laurence Dunbar,
poet; is also home of cash register & city manager plan, of Air Material Command &
Miami Conservancy Project. It is nat. aviation center & noted for diversity of its
other industries. It is also a beautiful city in a beautiful setting. City plan allows a
spacious downtown dist. in loop of the Miami, & throughout city are riverside pks.,
drives & many bridges. There is a minimum of smoke & noise, since there is no
**factory dist.'* & because plants are mainly of light-industry type.
Site of Dayton was happy hunting ground for Inds. for many yrs. Then it was
crossed by frontiersmen & soldiers & desperate bands of the dispossessed In 1793
Jonathan Dayton purchased land here, & town was inc. in 1 805. In 1 840 some 70 000
crowded to the little town (6,000 pop.) to hail "Tippecanoe and Tyler too!" In 1879
the citizens laughed at James Ritty's "mechanical money drawer"; but in 1884 John
Patterson took it over & brought precision workmen to his "daylight factory " Wil-
bur & Oryille Wright were working on their flying machine near close of cent, &
Barney Oldfields racing career began. Chas. R Kettering opened the laboratories
that became Delco. In 1913 flood, approx. 400 died & damlge rose above $100 OoT
000. Dayton s answer was Miami Conservancy Dist, est in 1915, at cost of $31^
US 33 OHIO 465
000,000. Indirectly, flood brought the city manager plan, adopted to meet crisis.
During 2 world wars, Dayton became nat. aviation center.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Main & 3rd Sts., Old Courth. (1850.Class.Rev.by Howard
Daniels). (2) 405 W. RLverview Ave., Art Institute (1930.ItalRen.by Edw.B.
Green); gift of Mrs. Harrie G. Carnell; designed after triple-arched casino of Villa
Farnese. Of special note are Chinese Temple, Ital. & Goth, chapels, Mrs. Car-
nell's Oriental Coll. & Coll. of Wright Brothers' Medals. (3) 208 W. 1st St.,
Westminster First Presb. Ch. (org.1799.bldg.1926.Goth.by Schenck & Williams),
home of Westminster Choir. (4) 215 E. 3rd St., Pub. Lib. & Mas.; McKinley Monu
(ded.1910), presented by school children. (5) In Van Cleve Pk. is log Newcom
Tavern (1796), city's oldest H.; pioneer coll. (6) 219 N. Summit St., Dunbar H. St
Mem. (O.1873), home of Paul Laurence Dunbar (1872-1906), whose "Lyrics of
Lowly Life" (1896) was widely acclaimed. The poetic boy, son of former slaves,
worked in Dayton elevator. (7) Univ. of Dayton (Cath.), coed., lib. arts & engineering
colleges; founded in 1850. Immaculate Conception Chapel. (8) Patterson Blvd.,
Deeds Carillon; 32 bells in fine tower. (9) In Woodland Cemetery, Graves of Wright
Brothers, Col. Robt. Patterson, & Dnnbar. (10) Industrial Plants: 300 Taylor St,
Frigidaire (O); National Cash Register (tours); McCall Corp., publishers. (11) On
St.4 (NE) 4 m is Wright Field, hqs. of Army Material Command, in conjunction with
Patterson Field, c.8 m , & Clinton Cty. Army Airfield; probably world's greatest
aeronautical center. From Wright Field (N) to Wright Mem.
38.5. MIAMISBURG, laid out by Pa. settlers in 1818. Has foundries, paper mills &
cordage factories. 3 early tobacco warehouses still stand. A little farther on, (W) of
hy., is Mamisburg Mound (pic.lookout), largest in state. 44.5. FRANKLIN (1796),
once busy canal port; known now for paper mills & Eldridge Entertainment BL (O),
distributors of plays & songs.
SIDE TRIP: On St.73 (SW) 5m to Middftetawn, fair-sized paper-making & tobacco center.
Here, in July, 1825, Gov. DeWitt Clinton, of N, Y., & Gov. Jeremiah Morrow, of Ohio,
turned spadeful of earth inaugurating construction of M. & E. Canal. Curtis St, Amer.
Rolling Mill Co. (O.appl.). Central Ave. Lorillard Tobacco Co. (O.appL).
49. on US25, Poland-China Hog Mon., marble mem. to breed developed by Shakers,
54. MONROE. J. with St.63, which leads (E) 5 m to Shaker Village (1805-1913). 80.
CINCINNAII (see), which spreads (S) to Ohio R., 8L KY LINE.
US 33 OHIO
OfflO-W. VA. LINE (1^ from Mason, W. Va.) (NW) to IND. LINE (9 from
Decatur, Ind.). 228. US33
Via: Pomeroy, Athens, Nelsonville, Logan, Lancaster, Lithopolis, Columbus, Dublin,
Marysville, Indian Lake, Wapakoneta, St. Marys, Willshire. RR. & bus conns. & good
accoms. in larger towns; resorts in recr. areas & camp sites in nat. for. & St pks. Scenic
tour crossing Hocking R valley, sees, of Wayne Nat For., only one in state, the popular
Ind. L. recr. area & hist, country along W. boundary.
Sec. 1: W* VA. LINE to COLUMBUS. 102. US33.
0. POMEROY, across Pomeroy-Mason Bridge from W. Va, J. with St7 (Ohio R.
Tour). In the hill country, fox hunting is popular, & customs brought from Brit
Isles & New England survive along with johnny cake, cherry bounce & sassafras
tea. US33 passes wooded ravines & hilltop orchards, an occasional coal mine.
27. ATHENS (see US50) bet two units of Wayne Nat For. US33 follows Hocking
R. into Wayne Nat For. (hqs. in Columbus), covering c. 1,500,000 as. noted for
autumn coloring of its hardwoods. Before Civil War, Ohio was leading hardwood-
state. Then, in 1870's, rich deposits of iron ore were discovered & more fprs.
vanished to keep furnaces burning. Ohio lost all but fraction of primeval covering.
Once the fors. were cut down, rich topsoil was washed by rains & swept along
flooding rivers. Fed. Gov. is carrying out large-scale projects in reforestation & con-
servation of wildlife. (For.camps.pic.trls.). 42. NELSONVILLE. Just (N) are de-
veloped pic. & camp, areas within nat for. (f.h.). 54. LOGAN, center of celebrated
Hocking Pk. area. J. with St.75 (which leads (E) 12^ to Straitsville Mine Fire, where
coal has smouldered since 1884). Hocking Pks. (pic.camp.shelters) owe their caves,
cliffs & tunnels to rock formation composed largely of mineral quartz, which resists
466 CINCINNATI, OHIO
erosion while upper & lower layers of shale are gradually worn away. Thus fan-
tastic grottoes, caverns & natural bridges have been created.
SIDE TRIP: On St.664 (SW) llm to J. with St374, which leads to noted Old Man's Cave
St. Pk. (camp.facils.), named for hermit who lived beneath rocky ledge a cent ago. Cas-
cading creek follows deep gorge that runs through 1,400-a, pk. Cedar Falls is in grove of
evergreens. Another waterfall tumbles down cliffs of Ash Cave, whose walls are covered
with rare flowers & fern. A few miles (N) on St.374 is Conkles Hollow, rocky canyon cov-
ered with hardwoods. RockhoHse (N) of S. Bloomingville on St.374, is natural cathedral
with pillars of colored stone, probably once a moundbuilders' shelter. St.374 cont (N)
through 300-a. Cantwell Cliffs St Pk., popular with picnickers & nature lovers & famous
for rhododendron; St.374 rejoins US3 near Rockbridge.
US33 cont (NW) from Logan. 73. LANCASTER. 88.5. CANAL WINCHESTER.
99.5. BEXLEY. 102. COLUMBUS (see Columbus for this sec.).
Sec. 2: COLUMBUS to BSD. LINE. 126. US33
0. COLUMBUS. Hy. winds along Gt Scioto R. through recr. area created by Griggs
& O'Shaughnessy dams, part of Columbus water system. Near DUBLIN, 13., is J.
with St.257 (which runs (N) past Leatfcerfips Mon. (1888), comm. Wyandot chief-
tain; the bridge & reservoir of O'Shaiighnessy Dam; Columbus Zoo). 30. MARYS-
VILLE, charming town sett, in 1816; home of Otway Curry, who wrote "The Log
Cabin Song" for Wm. H. Harrison's campaign. 49. ZANESFEELD, sett in 1819 on
the land of Isaac Zane, who was adopted into Wyandot tribe. He married White
Crane, daughter of Chief Tarhe, & remained in Ind. village for 40 yrs. Zane, friend
of the settlers, was at signing of Greenville Treaty, 1795. Zane-Kenton Mon. In
Ebenezer Zaee H. (1805) was held 1st M.E. Quarterly Conference in N.W. Terr.
(1819). Near Zanesfield is Site of Wapatomica, Shawnee town where Simon Kenton
was saved from massacre by Simon Girty, 1778, before Girty threw in his lot with
Brit 56. BELLEFONTAINE (see) near highest land in Ohio. 70. IND. L. ST. PIL
(f.h.camp.facils.boat), around 11,000-a. L.; summer resort; centers also at Russells
Point & Lakeview. In Manary Blockh. Mus^ Lakeview, is exhibit of pre-Rev. and-
irons, tintypes, printed cottons. 89. WAPAKONETA (see). J. with US25 (see). US33
swings (N) & follows roughly the St Marys R. to IND. LINE, at 126.
CINCINNATI
CINCINNATI
Union KR. Terminal, Lincoln Pk. Dr. & Dalton Ave. Bus Depots: Greyhound, E. 5th &
Sycamore Sts. Traflways, 123 E. Court St Greater Cincinnati Airport, across R. in
Ky. Foot of Broadway for "Island Queen" to Coney I. (daily Mem. Day to Labor Day).
Foot of Main St., Greene Line Steamers for Miss. R. cruises. Excellent accoms, &
recr. facils. Good theaters, symphony orchestra, art & other museums. Summer opera
at Zoo. Annual Events: Good Friday Pilgrimage, Biennial May Music Festival (odd
yrs.), Exhibit of Amer. Art (Oct.). Info.: C. of C., 4th & Race Sts.
Cincinnati, 2nd largest city, is still "a queen among cities" as Longfellow named it,
& Cincinnatians are "courteous & agreeable" as Dickens found them in 1842. City
rises on low terraces dominated by Carew Tower & Union Central Bldg., & then its
suburbs spread back & high among the hills. Price Hill & Mt Adams face each
other across the Basin. Shut off from N. Ohio by rugged ranges, Cincinnati has al-
ways looked to the S., while Ohio R. has linked it with E, & W. So, today, it is
cultural & econ. center for immense area. Nationally known centers of music, art
& education have grown up here Univ. of Cincinnati, Xavier Univ., Our Lady of
Cincinnati & Hebrew Union colleges; Symphony Orchestra & outstanding Art. Mus.
Industrial products incl. soap, radios, watches, plastics, playing cards & machine
tools; also meat-packing plants, steel works & breweries. Kroger Stores & Fleisch-
mann s Yeast began here. Once victim of boss rule, Cincinnati later won title of
"best governed city."
In 1786, Benj. Stites, a trader, crossed from Ky. in pursuit of Ind. horse thieves. Im-
pressed by the country, he carried E. a glowing report to Congressman J. C. Symmes
y?o p o I mpt J y P urc ? ased 2,000,000 as. of land bet. Little & Big Miami Rs. In
1788, Stites & some Ky. settlers founded Columbia, & another group settled Losanti-
yille downstream. In 1789 Symmes founded N. Bend. Terr. Gov. Art St Clair came
to Ft Washington, at LosantiviUe, in 1790, & changed name of village to Cincin-
CINCINNATI, OHIO 467
nati, in honor of society org. by Continental Army officers. After War of 1812, town
boomed with river commerce, becoming shipbuilding center & focus of westward
immigration. With completion of Miami & Erie Canal, its flour mills, meatpacking
plants & distilleries flourished. In 1830's liberal Germans came & made famous the
Oyer-the-Rhine sec. of Vine St. After potato famine in 1848, hundreds of Irish
joined Cincinnati's native-born Virginians, New Englanders & Kentuckians. Before
Civil War, Cincinnati was a metropolis. During Gilded Age, Geo. Cox became city's
boss, & vice flourished for nearly 40 yrs. Cth. Riot of 1884 grew out of public anger
against political corruption. Finally in 1925, the reform charter group brought in a
clean election & city manager system. During the yrs. that followed, Cincinnati was
transformed. Now, city planners are at work on slum-clearance, riverfront devel-
opment & over-all street pattern that will link scattered communities.
PTS. OF INT. DOWNTOWN: (1) Front St., Pub. Landing, granite-paved area
where settlers landed. Greene Line Wharf for modern "Delta Queen" & "Gordon C.
Greene," last of the packets (leaves St. Louis, Mo.). Coney I. Wharf (see Trip I
below). Front St., in great days of river trade, was lined with hotels, stores, res-
taurants & saloons. Sees, of it, known as the Levee, Rat Row & Sausage Row, were
notorious. (2) Pearl St., (N) 2 blocks, is still the marketplace, with famous Pear! St
Growers Market (1816). (3) 3rd & Walnut Sts., United Bank Bldg. (Richardson
Romanes.). (4) 3rd & Vine Sts., Site of Burnet H. (1850), 340-room hotel. (5) 411 E.
3rd St., Site of Mrs. Trollope's Bazaar (1828), the fancy-goods establishment run by
mother of Anthony Trollope. Mrs. Trollope deplored the natives' uncouth manners,
while they ignored her trinkets, marked up for profit from retail price she had paid,
In 1830, Mrs. Trollope left in disdain & wrote caustic "Domestic Manners of the
Americans." (6) 414 E. 3rd St., Audubon H., where artist-scientist worked at taxi-
dermy. (7) 3rd St. bet Ludlow & Broadway, Ft. Washington Mon. (8) 429 E. 3rd St.,
Daniel Brake H., home of great doctor, teacher, writer (1785-1852); founder of
Medical College (1817) & several schools, hospitals & libs. (9) In Fountain Sq.
(1870), Tyler Davidson Fountain (1871.by Von Kreling of Nuremberg). (10) 5th &
Vine Sts., Carew Tower (1930.by Walter Ahlschlager), city's tallest skyscraper. (11)
E. of Sq., Federal Bldg. (1939.Mod.). (12) W. of Sq., Union Central Bldg. (1917.by
Cass Gilbert). (13) 629 Vine St., Pub. lib. (1865.by Jas.McLaughlin). (14) 6th St.
from Vine to Race Sts., Terrace Plaza Hotel (1948.Mpd.by Skidmore, Owings &
Merrill); lobby of 8th floor, above windowless shopping & business center; res-
taurant on top of bldg. with Joan Miro Mural, sculpture by Alex. Calder & Saul
Steinberg's cartoon mural. (15) Vine & 6th Sts., Palace Hotel & other bldgs. sur-
viving from 1880*s. (16) Plum & W. 8th Sts., Old Cathedral of St Peter in Chains
(1845.Gr.Rev.by Henry Walter); named for its painting by Murillp. (17) 309 W.
Court St, Lloyd Lib. (O), noted lib. of medicine & pharmaceutics; adj. is Lloyd Bros.
Plant. (18) Central Pky. & Walnut St., Industrial Mus. (O.wks.), of Ohio Mechanics
Institute (1829). (19) Elm & Grant Sts., Hamilton Cty. Mem. Bldg. (1908); large hist
colL (20) Lincoln Pk. Dr., Lincoln Court (1942), one of several projects for con-
centrated Negro pop. (21) Lincoln Pk. Dr. (W) end. Union Terminal (1933.by E.D.
Tyler), considered one of world's most beautiful RR. stas.
PTS. OF INT. E. & NE.r (22) In Lytle PL, Statue of Abraham Lincoln (1917.by
Geo.Grey Barnard), considered a masterpiece. (23) 318 Pike St, Taft Mus. (O.1820.
Gr.Rev.probably by Latrobe), housing Chas. Taft Coll. of noted paintings; also coll.
of Frank Duyeneck, city's 19th cent, teacher-painter. Taft H. is considered one of
finest remaining examples of Adams style. (24) Mt, Adams, reached by Scenic In-
cline Ry. Good Friday Pilgrimage begins at Columbia Ave. below & proceeds up
slope to Ch. of Immaculate Conception & Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto. Near-by
are Rockwood Potteries (tours). By Ida St Bridge, Pilgrim Chu (Presb.1887), built
by Prots. & Caths. (25) Columbia Pky. (NE) from Mt Adams, Eden Pk. On wooded
hilltop is Art Mus.; main bldg. (1886.Romanes.by J.McLaughlin); wings around
open court (1907-3 S.Gr.Rev. & one Romanes.); Mary M. Emery Old Masters,
Duveneck oils, Shelt ColL of Ancient Egyptian Art, & Hanna ColL In Eden Pk. also
are Art Academy & Krohn Conserv. (O). (26) On Time Hill (NE) from downtown,
Gruen Watch Co. (O). (27) Oak & Winslow Sts., Ch. of the New Jerusalem (Sweden-
borgian); window by Burne-Jones. (28) Gilbert <& Foraker Aves., Lyman Beecher
Homestead, in Walnut Hills Negro dist. Here, in her father's house, Harriet Beecher
Stowe met abolitionists. (29) Edgecliff Rd. at Francis Lane, Our Lady of Cincinnati,
Cath. college for women. (30) Madison Rd. & Dexter PL, Institutum Bivi Thomae
468 TRIPS OUT OF CINCINNATI
(Oappl.), (Cath.) center of research; est. 1935. (31) Victory Pky., Xavier Univ.
(Jesuit.1831), in symmetrical group of bldgs. (1920-29.Tudor Goth.).
(32) Walnut Hills, residential suburbs. Among many mansions are Holabird Leede-
Mug Castle (1833), Longworth Estate, Shipley H. (1875), The Pines (1827). (33)
Oakley Factory Colony, begun in 1907 when Cin. Machine Tool Co. was est, (34)
Avondale, long-est. & attractive Jewish settlement. At N. Crescent Ave., Isaac M.
Wise Temple Center. Lexington Ave., Avondale Synagogue (1926.Class.Rev.by
Oscar Schwartz). (35) Eden Ave., Univ. of Cin* College of Medicine; lib. has coll.
of Dr. Drake's (see above) books & instruments. (36) Oak St. & Burnet Ave., Con-
serv* of Music* founded by Clara Bauer in 1867.
PTS. OF INT. W. & NW.: (37) Price Hill, hilltop suburb, reached by incline. Among
fine churches, schools & houses are many early mansions. (38) Along Mill Cr. (E)
are several industrial communities around large plants: On Colerain Ave., Crosley
Radio Corp. Main Plant; Display Room (O) & Lodge & Shipley Machine Tool Co.,
one of city's largest. On Spring Grove Ave., E. Kahn's Sons, large meat-packing
plant, Cin. Union Stock Yard Co. (tours on appl.), huge livestock exchange opened
in 1873 & Proctor & Gamble Co. (1837), Ivorydale (tours Tues.& Thurs.). In Hart-
well, most northerly suburb, Nat Distillers Products Corp. (O.appl). (39) Hebrew
Union College, bet Riddle Rd. & Dixmyth Ave., oldest & most celebrated Jewish
theological school in U. S.; founded in 1875 by Rabbi Isaac M. Wise; cooperates
with Univ. of Cin. Expansion program (1948) incl. School of Sacred Music in N.Y.C.
Bernheim Lib. (O); art coU. (40) Univ. of Cincinnati, at S. end of Burnet Woods; one
of oldest (1870) & largest mun. colleges in U. S. Incl. early Cin. College & Medical
College (1819), Cin. Astronomical Soc. (1842) & McMicken Univ. (1869). McMicken
Hall (1895), Hanna Hall (1896). Cunningham Hall (1899). (41) At Lafayette Circle,
Abbe Meteorological Observatory, named for Cleveland Abbe, who started nation's
1st weather serv. in Cincinati in 1869.
TRIPS OUT OF CINCINNATI (see also Ky.).
I. US52 (S) to GRANT MEM. ST. PEL 32. Via: Coney I., Pt Pleasant
Route follows Kellogg Ave. (E) along Ohio R. 15. CONEY I. AMUSEMENT PK*
(MemJDay to Labor Day.pic.swim.baUroom.playfields). River Downs Race Track.
Lompkin (mun.) Airport, near Mt Washington, suburb. 25. NEW RICHMOND
(1816), rebuilt after every flood. Beautiful esplanade. 32. PT. PLEASANT, birthpl.
of Pres. Grant. Grant Mem. St. Pk* (pic.facils.) surrounds Grant H. Mus. (O.rest.) &
Grant Mem, Ch.
IL US50 (E) to FAYETTEVBLLE. 43. Via: Mariemont, Plainville, Milford. Fol-
low Madison Rd. (NE), which becomes Wooster Pike in Madisonville, 13. MARIE-
MONT, created in 1822 on Little Miami R. as ideal Eng. village. Mariemont Inn*
At 5801 Wooster Pike, Eliphalet Ferris H. (1813.Georg.Col.rest). Adj. Mariemont
is Plainville, summer resort
18. TERRACE PARK, residential. John Robinson H., on estate of great circus man.
43* FAYETTEVILLE, largely Cath. community. St Aloysins Academy (1850).
IH. US50 (W) to IND. LINE, 19. Via: Addyston, North Bend, Cleves.
US50 offers view of shantyboats along shore, occasionally a Greene Line packet or
tremendous barge fleet 11.5. ADDYSTON (1871). 14.5. NORTH BEND, one of
orig. settlements (1789). Site of Benj. Harrison's Birthpl. & long-time home of Pres.
W. H. Harrison, his grandfather. Wm. H. Harrison Mem. St. Pk. (facils.) overlooks
R. & passing steamboats salute man buried beneath Harrison Mem. Shaft. 19. IND.
LINE.
IV. US22, St.350 (N) to FT. ANCIENT ST. PK. 44. Via: Norwood, Silverton,
Montgomery, Hopkinsville, Morrow, (Lebanon).
Follow Montgomery Rd. (NE). 5. NORWOOD, a separate city, heavily indus-
trialized, partly because of favorable tax rate. Many fine 19th cent Hs. At Main &
Moeller Aves., Mount St Mary's Seminary of the West Large industrial plants
(mostly N.O.) are: Allis-Cfaalmers, U. S. Playing Card Co., Globe-Wemlcke, Amer.
Laundry Machinery Co. & Kemper Thomas Co. 11. SILVERTON (1804). Hy. leaves
plateau & crosses R. near HOPKINSVILLE, 26. J. with St.48.
SIDE TRIP: On St.48 (N) 7.5m to Lebanon. Only remaining one of its famous taverns is
The Golden Lamb (1815). On sign beneath the lamb are names of Dickens, Henry Clay &
other distinguished guests. Here, in 1871, C. L. Vallandingham, Copperhead leader, killed
CLEVELAND, OHIO 469
himself accidentally while re-enacting a supposed murder in order to get facts to clear his
client Near Lebanon is Shaker Village, on St.63.
38. J. with St.350, over which trip cont. (W). 44. FT. ANCIENT ST. PK. (piacamp.
concessions), around largest prehist. fortification in U.S, Moundbuilder Mus. (sm.
fee).
V. US127 (N) 23. to HAMILTON.
HAMILTON (1791)
Through RR. & bus conns. Commercial airports. Good accoms. Recr. facils. in nu-
merous pks. Le Sourdsville L. Amusement Pk. (N).
City on site of ft. built by Gen. St. Clair in 1791-92 is now important industrial
center, nationally known for machine tools, safes & stoves. Wm. Dean Howells
spent boyhood here. W. of Miami R. are older Hs., with grilled balconies, mingling
with fine modern homes. Around site of ft (E) is mixed area, with large pop. of fac-
tory workers. Soldiers, Sailors, & Pioneers Mem. (O); large hist. coll. Across from
it is Site of Ft Hamilton. One of world's largest makers of machine tools is General
Machinery Corp.
VI. US27 (NW) to IND. LINK 47. Via: Oxford.
16. J. with US50 (see), which links US27 & US127. Just beyond J., route crosses
Gt Miami R. & swings (N) through Millville & McGonigle. 41. OXFORD, seat of
Miami Univ. & Western College; college town since 1809, when the fors. were
cleared away for the univ. Hy. runs near border of rolling campus of Western Univ.
(O.I 825). Facing campus is Lewis Place, president's house. W. H. McGuffey com-
piled his 1st "Eclectic Reader" while pres. at Miami, & Pres. Benj. Harrison was in
class of 1852. Oxford College for Women, which became part of Univ. in 1928, was
started by J. W. Scott, father of Mrs. Benj. Harrison. PTS. OF INT.: Beta Theta Pi
Campanile (1939), with Westminster bells. Stoddard HaH, one of orig. bldgs.
Century-old Simpson H. Alumni Lib. & McGnffey Mem. Mus. On High St., Caroline
S. Harrison Mem. BIdg. (1849.Queen Anne); Oak & Spring Sts., W. H. McGnffey H.
Western College For Women (Presb.1853) was modelled after Mt. Holyoke.
Alumnae Hall has Heath Chime. Helen Peabody Hall (1871) is named for great
early teacher, pupil of Mary Lyon. At 47. US27 crosses IMX ONE at COLLEGE
CORNER.
CLEVELAND
CLEVELAND
RR. Stas.: Pub. Sq., Union Terminal; W. 6th St. & Front Ave., Penn. RR.: Superior
Ave. near W. 9th St., Erie RR. Superior Ave. & E. 9th St., Greyhound Bus Terminal.
Erieside Dr. (SW) 8^, Mun. Airport. Riverside Ave., D. & C. Navigation Co. Dock.
Accoms.: All types. Auditoriums & theaters incl. Pub. Auditorium, Playhouse Sq., The
Play House & Severance Hall (Orchestra). Mun. Stadium & recr. facils. in 10,000-a. Pk.
System. Annual Events: May Show (Ap.-June), Mus. of Art; Garden Tours (May-
June), Garden Center at E. Blvd. & Euclid Ave.; Nat. Air Races (Labor Day week end);
Home & Flower Show (Mar.). Info.: 400 Union Commerce BIdg., C. of C.
Cleveland, largest city in Ohio & 6th largest in U.S., is greatest L. Erie port & one
of world's greatest iron & steel centers, extending nearly 30 miles along shore.
Through center of city is wide valley of Cuyahoga R., & here on the Flats are steel
mills, oil refineries, factories & lumber yards. Commercial & residential dists. rise
on either side on higher level of old lakebed. On the Heights & in Chagrin valley are
suburbs of notable beauty, incl. romantic Gates Mills, with Hunt Club & Polo
Field. From High Level Bridge, the city plan is seen to be simple & orderly, with
all aves. leading to Pub. Sq., above which rises the Terminal Tower, tallest bldg. in
U.S. outside of N.Y.C. More than half the people are of foreign birth or parentage,
representing nearly 50 nationalities. Most of the Negro citizens (8 per cent of total)
live around edge of downtown disk, where housing projects are replacing slums.
Chief industries are shipping & processing of iron & steel & manufacture of ma-
chine tools, automotive & aviation parts, textiles, electrical products & chemicals.
Cleveland has always been model of civic enterprise, with excellent Welfare Federa-
tion & Community Fund. Townsend Plan has hqs. here. Western Reserve Univ.,
Case Institute of Technology, John Carroll Univ., Penn College & Ursuline College
for Women are outstanding institutions, & Cleveland's Symphony Orchestra &
Play House are nationally known. 1st white settlement at mouth of Cuyahoga R.
was trading post, est in 1747 by the Irishman, Geo. Croghan, 1st Brit, agent in
470 CLEVELAND, OHIO
area. When N.W. Terr, was org. (1787), Conn, was allowed to keep part of land
held by grant from Charles II, from Pa. Line (W) to the "South Sea." This Western
Reserve, extending 120 miles, was bought & surveyed by Conn. Land Co., led by
Gen. Moses Cleaveland. The Firelands, 500,000 as., about 50 miles (W), were re-
served by Conn, to repay citizens for damage during Rev. Instructed to found "a
capital town," Cleaveland laid out 2 main streets (Superior & Ontario) as broad as
they are today. The 49 settlers endured winter of 1796 & then forsook their capital
by the frozen lake. When the <e Walk-in-the-Water" steamed into L. Erie in 1818,
Cleveland was smallest of 14 towns in Western Reserve. Then, in 1832, the Ohio^
Erie Canal was completed with Cleveland as terminal, & in 1836 the city inc. with
5,000 citizens. Mid-century, the RRs. brought 1st loads of L. Superior ore & of
bituminous coal from the E.
Cleveland was already a big city when Rockefeller & Hanna families settled here.
In Civil War period, it was a vital sta, on Underground Railroad. Then came tre-
mendous development. J. D. Rockefeller org. Standard Oil in 1870; Mark Hanna
made fortune in coal & shipping, & Jephtha H. Wade in the telegraph & real estate.
White Mfg. Co. made sewing machines; Sherwin Williams Paint & Otis Steel (1st
open hearth) were est Charles F. Brush lighted Pub. Sq. with carbon arc lamps; &
America's 1st electric streetcars appeared in the "Forest City" (1884). Cleveland's
wealthy men began to look around. J. H. Wade gave land for 1st city pk. The
Opera House & "The Plain Dealer" were founded. Through Aeries of consolidations,
the industrial giants of era created some of America's notorious trusts in Cleveland.
Mark Hanna, maker of Presidents, met opposition at4ast in Thos. L. Johnson, who
was fought by Hanna but held office of mayor for 5 terms. Under him & his suc-
cessor, Newton 0. Baker, city politics were given a thorough cleaning. Labor, in
1880 s s, had fought through several widespread strikes to official recognition. Cleve-
land Fed. of Labor was org. in 1910. During World War I, Cleveland profited finan-
cially & in return gave 1st Red Cross unit & 1st Community Chest to the country.
The Symphony Orchestra was org. in 1918, & Mus. of Art built in 1916. The Van
Sweringen brothers created their famous empire, developing beautiful Shaker
Heights, acquiring Nickel Plate RR. & building Terminal Tower group & Union Sta.
before their financial structure collapsed. The pop. had completely changed with
expanding labor market & because of this, Cleveland's interest in art, music &
drama was intensified, & its Play House & Gilpin Players, a Negro theater, became
nationally famous.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) High Level Bridge (1918), largest of its kind in world. (2) St
Clair Ave. at W. 9th St., Site of Cleveland's Landing. (3) W. 6th St. & Frankfort
Ave., WeddeH EL (1854); Lincoln Room (O). (4) In 10-a. Pub. Sq.: Moses Cleave-
land Statue (1887.G.C.Hamilton), Tom L. Johnson Statue (1915.H.N.Matzen). (5)
Terminal Tower Group, adj. Pub. Sq., The Tower Bldg. (1930), modern structure
with turreted tower (O.sm.fee), is $119,000,000 mon. to the Van Sweringens. (6)
(W) of Pub. Sq., Cleveland College, downtown center of Western Reserve Univ.
(see below), housed in Newton D. Baker Mem. Bldg. (7) Lakeside Mall, civic center
planned with aid of the late Dan. Burnham, J. M. Carrere & other architects. Incl.
are 4 bldgs. by Walker & Weeks: Pub. Lib. (1925.Fr.Ren.), Fed. Reserve Bank
(1922JtaLRen.), Board of Education Bldg. (Fr.& ItaLRen.) & Stadium (1931).
Others in group are Fed. Bldg. (1910) & Cuyahoga County Cth. (Fr.Ren.by A.W.
Brunner); Auditorium (1922.Ital.Ren.by Betz & MacDowell) & City Hall (1916.
Ren.by JLMDyer). (8) Ore Dock, with Hulitt type unloading machines. (9) Euclid
Ave. & E, 22nd St., Trinity Cathedral (Episc.l907.Perpendicular Goth.by C.F.
Schwemfurth); congregation est in 1816. (10) 2712 Euclid Ave., Mus. of Nat. Hist
(O), housed in Leonard Hanna Mansion (Gr.Rev.). (11) 6709 Euclid Ave., Dunham
Tavern (sm.fee). (12) 2040 E. 86th St., Play House (Romanes.by C.L.Small), home
of 2 experimental theaters. (13) 10915 East Blvd., Western Reserve Hist Mus. (O.
free); records of Conn. Land Co. (14) East Blvd. <& Fairmount Rd., Baldwin Res-
ervoir (1925), one of largest covered reservoirs in world (136,000,000 gals.).
(15) Euclid Ave. (E) of E. 107th St. is elm-shaded Univ. Circle, with Hanna Statue
(1907.by Saint-Gaudens) & Louis Kossuth Statue (by And.Toth). (16) Case Institute
of Technology, founded by Leonard Case, Jr., 1877. Mus. of Geology (O.appl.).
On Taylor Rd., (E) 4 m from campus, is Warner-Swasey Observ. (1919). (17) Western
Reserve Univ^ founded in 1826 & moved to Cleveland in 1882. Besides Cleveland
College, downtown, Univ. incl. undergraduate Flora Stone Mather (women) &
TRIPS OUT OF CLEVELAND 471
Adelbert (men) colleges, a graduate & 8 professional schools. Amasa Stone Chape!
(Eng.Goth.) of Adelbert College, comm. philanthropist. (18) Univ. Hospitals, on
Adelbert Rd. (19) Euclid Ave. & East Blvd., Severance Hall (1930.Fr.& Eng.Ren.
by Walker & Weeks), home of Symphony Orchestra. (20) In 75-a. Wade Pk., white
marble Mus. of Art (1916.Gr.Ionic.by Hubbell & Benes). Rodin's "Man of Age of
Bronze" in rotunda. Colls, of Medieval & Byzantine, early Ital. & later European
art, incl. "Portrait of Isabella Brandt" by Rubens. (21) Rockefeller Pk., 29 Cultural
Gardens of nationality groups, dedicated to internal peace. Eng. Garden is modeled
after Shakespeare Garden; in Hebrew Garden are cedars of Lebanon; while Ital.
Garden is patterned formally around Ren. fountain & German Garden has Unter-
berg Marble Fountain from Salzburg. (22) 12316 Euclid Ave., in Lake View Ceme-
tery, Garfield Mon. (1890.by Geo.Keller), tomb of Pres. Jas. A. Garfield. Also
Rockefeller Monolith.
TRIPS OUT OF CLEVELAND.
I. US20 (E) to PAINESVILLE. 30.5.
Via: E. Cleveland, Euclid, Willoughby, Mentor, (Kirtland). Lake Shore Blvd. (St.283)
is pleasant alternate route.
US20, Iroquois warpath against the Erie, follows Euclid Ave., street of the "robber
barons," past Case-Western Reserve campus & Rockefeller's former estate. 8.5. On
outskirts of E. Cleveland, 3rd largest suburb, is Nela Pk., research lab. of Gen.
Electric. Lighting Institute Bldg. (usually O.). At 21320 Euclid Ave. is Slirine of Our
Lady of Lourdes (O.outdoor serv.May-Dec.). 13.5. EUCLID (sett 1798), suburb with
lakeside residential sec. 24. MENTOR (see). At 1059 Mentor Ave., Garfield BL (O).
SIDE TRIP: On St.306 (S) 3.5m to Kirfland. On Ap. 6, 1830, Jos. Smith org. Ch. of Jesus
Christ of Latter Day Saints. He set out for Mo, but stopped instead at Mentor & gained
many converts, among them Brigham Young, who became leader when Smith was killed
in Nauvoo (see 111.). Local attacks on Mormon doctrine & financial difficulties brought
an end to Kirtland. Kirtiand Temple (O), massive stone structure built by the Mormons,
incl. Young, each man giving a day a wk.
30.5 PAINESVILLE (see), overlooking Grand R.; seat of L. Erie College, noted also
for elegant early houses. At 106 E. Washington St. is Gillette BL, marked by cor-
belled chimneys above balustraded roof. 792 Mentor Ave., Rider Tavern (O.I 8 18).
Lake Erie College (women), with 50-a. wooded campus, was opened at Willoughby
in 1847, with faculty chosen by Mt Holyoke's Mary Lyon.
H. US20 (S) to OBERLIN. 37.5. Via: Lakewood, Rocky River, Elyria.
US20 dips (S) through wealthy suburbs to the Firelands, distinguished by villages
that might be in Conn. 5. LAKELAND, Cleveland's largest suburb, mainly residen-
tial. 8.5. ROCKY RIVER, on plateau along Black R. 28. ELYRIA (1817). In Black
R. Gorge, Cascade Pk. (pic.). East Ave. & 2nd St., Octagonal H., popular style in
early 1800's. E. River & Broad Sts., Gates Mem. Hospital, known for work with
crippled children. 37.5. OBERLIN, founded simultaneously with its famous college
in 1833 by Rev. John J. Shipherd & Philo P. Stewart as colony pledged to "plainest
living & highest thinking." One of Ohio's richest schools, Oberlin College keeps
its democratic tradition, 1st coed, college in U.S. & 1st to admit Negroes* active in
abolitionist movement Incl. Conservatory of Music & Grad. School of Theology
(non-sectarian). At 64 E. College St., Hall H., where C. M. Hall worked on process
that revolutionized aluminum industry. The Halls bequeathed to Oberlin $15,000,-
000 ($23,000,000 endowment by 1948). Allen Mem. Hospital (1925) & Allen Art
Mem. Bldg. honor Dr. Dudley P. Allen & son. Theological Quadrangle (1931), gift
of J. D. Rockefeller, Jr. & Mrs. D. W. James. J. with St.58, hy. (N) to Lorain (see).
SIDE TRIP: (S) 9m on St.58 is Wellington, typical Firelands town. In 1858, fugitive slave
was taken from U.S. marshal by party of townspeople & students, & resultant Oberlin-
Wellington Rescue Case excited the nation. The rescue party, defended by Salmon P.
Chase & other notable lawyers, was finally freed. At 9.5m. is Greenwood Cemetery, burial
place of A M. Wfflard, painter of "Spirit of 76" & of Otis Pratt (1845-1921), whose "Land-
scape Discovery" decayed with him, according to his epitaph, "for want of Free Schools
or Art supported by our Gov."
HI. US422 (SE) to YOUNGSTOWN. 67.
Via: Cleveland Heights, Univ. Heights, Shaker Heights, Chagrin Falls, (Taborville),
Warren, (Niles), Girard.
After crossing some suburbs, US422 becomes direct route to steel empire & coal
country, CLEVELAND HEIGHTS is composed of several communities. In UNIV.
472 TRIPS OUT OF CLEVELAND
HEIGHTS just N. of hy. is John Carroll Univ. (Jesuit), founded in 1886. In 1935,
Univ. moved into new bldgs. (ColLGoth.) on 50-a. campus. 9. SHAKER HEIGHTS,
restricted suburb developed by Van Sweringens on site of 19th cent, community
of celibate Shakers. 18. Chagrin Falls & winding Chagrin R. are said to carry name
given by Moses Cleaveland when he found his party was not following the Cuyahoga
R. At 25. J. with Rd. to Taborvffle (S.c.4), a village of Czechoslovak families
founded c.1925.
SIDE TRIP: (S) 5m on St.700 is Hiram College (coed.), in pastoral setting; founded in 1850
by Disciples of Christ. Pres. Garfield was valedictorian in 1853.
At 38. on US422 is J. with St.282, which leads (S) 2 to Nelson Ledges St Pk. (pic.
camp.facils.). 52.5. WARREN, important steel city. Settled by Conn. Land Co. in
1798, it remained a small quiet city & maker of lamps for America until 1910. After
cst of Trumbull Steel Co. (1914), more than 17,000 persons of foreign birth or
descent were drawn to Warren's labor market. 57.5 J. with St.46.
SIDE TRIP: (S) 2m on St.46 to McKinley BirthpL Mem. (O.1917.mod.Doric), at Niles,
another steel city. In Court of Honor is Statue of McKinley.
62. GIRARD, sett, in 1800 & named for Phila. philanthropist, is part of steel &
iron area.
67. YOUNGSTOWN
Through RR., bus & airline conns. Good accoms. & recr. facfls. Theaters incl. The
Playhouse. Annual Art Show & folk festivals. Info.: Auto Club at Ohio Hotel.
Youngstown (sett. 1798) is center of steel domain extending through Shenango &
Mahoning valleys & producing a sixth of nation's pig iron & an eighth of its steel.
Bet. the Pub. Sq. & downtown sec. & Mahoning R. are RR. tracks & industrial
plants. More exclusive residential sec. is (SW) along Mill Or., withdrawn among the
hills. Youngstown is a milltown, geared to production of steel, though the more un-
sightly scars have been cleared away. Pop. is largely working people, more than 50
per cent of foreign birth or descent An iron smelter was set up by James & Dan.
Heaton in 1802 in Yellow Creek (now Struthers), & 1st coal mine was opened in the
valley in 1826. After Pa.-Ohio Canal was constructed, Youngstown became Ma-
honing Cty.'s seat & center of trade. In 1892, Union Iron & Steel Co. came to
Mahoning R. & modern industry began in earnest, filling the town with mills &
furnaces. In 1937, Youngstown was scene of one of "little steel" strikes. PTS. OF
INT.: (1) In Pub. Sq., Soldiers MOIL (1870), granite shaft (470. (2) Below Pub. Sq.,
Mahoning County Cth. (Ital.Ren.by Chas.Owsley); murals by E. H. Blashfield.
(3) At 524 Wick Ave., Butler Art Institute (Ital.Ren.1919.by McKim,Meade & White).
(4) At Mahoning Ave. Bridge, Mill Cr. Pk. (pic.); 1,400 as. of natural beauty (boat.).
Lanterman Mill (1845-46), on site of 1st gristmill, has Nat. Hist Mus. (O). Pioneer
Pavilion (1821). (5) Cor. 5th & Park Aves., Stambaugh Auditorium (1925.by Helmle
& Corbett). (6) At Market St. Bridge, United Engineering Co. (O.appL). (7) Republic
Steel Co. (N.O.). (8) Center St Bridge, Youngstown Sheet & Tube Co. (O.appL).
(9) 410 Wick Ave., Youngstown College, coed., lib. arts, accredited; began as
Y.M.C.A.'s Youngstown Assoc. School in 1888. Around Main Bldg. (1931.Tudor)
are Dana Sch. of Music, Sch. of Business & Wm. Rayen Sen. of Engineering.
IV. S114 (SE) to RAVENNA. 46.
Via: Garfield Heights, Bedford, Twinsburg, Streetsboro, (Kent). Crosses densely popu-
lated area to J. with Pa. St.51 route to Pittsburgh.
GARFIELD HEIGHTS, 8.5., MAPLE HEIGHTS & BEDFORD, 12., merge into
each other. In STREETSBORO, 26., is Singletary H. (1828), once a tavern. 29. L.
ROCKWELL (no 1), Akron's 800-a. reservoir. 46. RAVENNA (sett!799), is small
mfg. city on watershed bet Cuyahoga & Mahoning Rs., near Akron's L. dist. J. with
St.5.
SIDE TRIP: (W) 5** on St.5 is Kent, on Cuyahoga R. at edge of Akron. Walcott Lflac
Gardens (O). Kent St. Univ. (coed.) began as normal sch. & became univ. in 1935; incl.
graduate sch. & colleges of lib. arts, education & business administration.
V. US21 (S) to MASSILLON. 55.
Via: Cuyahoga Heights, Independence, Brecksville, Richfield, Copley, Barberton, Canal
Fulton, Crystal Spring. St.8 is more leisurely route & passes Cuyahoga Falls.
US21 takes direct route across level country by-passing Akron & winding with Tus-
carawas R. At 14. BRECKSVILLE, pleasant town spreading for miles around the
COLUMBUS, OHIO 473
Green. Congr. Clu (1844). At J. with St.82 is Brecksville Inn (O). 16. FURNACE
RUN RESERV. (pic.recr.facils.); 400 as. of virgin for. 20. RICHFIELD CEME-
TERY, where are buried children of John Brown, who lived in RICHFIELD, 20.5.,
before beginning struggle to free Amer. slaves. 37.5. MONTROSE, J. with St. 18.
SIDE TRIP: (SE) 8m in St.18 to center of Akron (see), passing Univ. of Akron campus,
Barberton, adj. Akron, is home of Diamond Match Co. (org.1889) & was planned as model
industrial town by Ohio Columbus Barber. On O. C. Barber's 3,000-a. farm, blooded stock
lived in luxurious stables, & the farmhouse, with marble halls, was furnished with elegance.
At 2nd St. & Robinson Ave., Diamond Match Co. Norton Ave. & Wooster Rd., Chief
HopocaM Statue, comm. Ind. leader who tried for 20 yrs. to bring peace, then started cam-
paign of terror that lasted from 1775 until Greenville Treaty, 1795.
52.5. CRYSTAL SPRINGS. Treaty of Ft. Mclntosh Boulder marks E. border of
country granted to Shawnee, 1785. 55. MASSELLON (see), coal-shipping & steel
center. J. with US30 (see).
VI. US42 (SW) to LAFAYETTE. 35.
Via: Berea, Parma Heights, Middleburgh Heights, Brunswick, Medina.
14. Here Bagley Rd. runs (W) into Berea, a city of quarries, furnishing building
stones & grindstones since its settlement (1827). Streets meander through town to
triangular green & campus of Baldwin-Wallace College. Modem dormitories &
observatory stand among ivy-colored sandstone halls. College was gift of John Bald-
win (1845), 1st settler, to N. Ohio Meth. Conference. Kulas Musical Arts Bidg.
houses excellent Conservatory. 29.5. MEDINA. 35. LAFAYETTE. CMppewa L. Pk.
(accoms.bath.recr.facils.).
COLUMBUS
COLUMBUS
E. High St., Union RR. Sta. E. Town St. bet. High & 3rd Sts., Union Bus Sta. Airport,
(E) at Port Columbus. Excellent accoms. & recr. facils. Theaters (stage & screen);
concerts; plays, lectures at univs. & colleges. Info.: 30 E. Broad St., C. of C. Farmers*
Wk. (Feb.); St Fair (Aug.-Sept); Ohio Watercolor Show.
Capital & 3rd largest city, Columbus is important educational, industrial & com-
mercial, as well as political center & convention city. Spreads over 40 sq. miles in
fertile valley of Scioto & Olentangy Rs. The beautiful Civic Center rises on great
bend of the Scioto & illuminated tip of Leveque-Lincoln Tower can be seen miles
away. Outstanding institutions are Ohio State, Franklin & Capital Univs., St Mary
of the Springs & St. Charles Barromeo colleges; Gallery of Fine Arts, Philharmonic
Symphony & Battelle Mem. Institute.
In 1812, the Legislature decided to build a statehouse & penitentiary "on the high
bank east of the Scioto R. directly opp. town of Franklinton." As site for a perma-
nent capital, a syndicate had offered a chunk of wilderness in which it would raise
a capitoL Franklinton had put in a bid, but the syndicate won, & town was named
for the great navigator, on Feb. 22, 1813. Mills, breweries & other industries began
to flourish, but the settlement was endangered by cholera & fever until swamps were
cleared. A feeder to Ohio & Erie Canal (1831) & the Nat Rd. (1833) soon made the
capital a busy shipping & trans, center. By 1900, industry was well advanced, &
Columbus, founded on U.S. Military Lands, had become what it still is, a military
concentration pt Civic Center was built along the riverbank following destructive
flood of 1913. Pop. is more than 96 per cent native-born, of whom some 11 per cent
are Negro. Hanford & Urbancrest (S.4 m ) are attractive Negro suburbs.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) St Capitol (1839-61), built by convict & private labor, is splendid
example of Doric style, its massive simplicity adorned by fine colonnades. McKinley
Mem. (1906.by H.A.McNeil). "These Are My Jewels" Mon. (1893. by Levi T.Sco-
field), with bronze figures of Presidents Grant, Garfield & Hayes, Gens. Sherman &
Sheridan, Salmon P. Chase & Edwin M. Stanton. (2) Civic Center Group, on Scioto
R. City Hall (1 928-3 6.Class.) covers central block. Leveque-Lincoln Tower (1927.
by C. Howard Crane). Dept of St Bldg. (1933.mod.Class.). (3) W. Spring St, St
Penitentiary (origoinits in 1830's); overcrowded & antiquated. In fire of 1930, more
than 300 lives were lost. (4) Cleveland Ave. & Buckingham St., Ft Hayes (O), hqs.
of 5th Service Command, U.S. Army; military post since 1863. (Columbus Gen.
Depot of U.S. Army, on James Rd.). (5) 280 E. Broad St., Franklin Cty, Mem. Hall
(1904.by RL.Packard), civic auditorium. (6) Grant Ave. & State St, Pub. Lib. (1906.
Fr. Ren. by A.R.Ross). (7) 480 E. Broad St, Gallery of Fine Arts (ItaLRen. 193 !.!>**
474 TRIPS OUT OF COLUMBUS
Richards, McCarty & Bulford); frieze by Rbt Aitkin. Exhibits incl. Howald Coll, of
mod. Fr. paintings, Schumacher ColL, work of Geo. Bellows, Columbus artist, &
fine Glass ColL (8) Sullivant Ave., bet. Powell Ave. & Binns Blvd., Camp Chase
Confed. Cemetery (1879). (9) 505 King Ave., Battelle Mem. Institute (1929-37),
nonprofit research lab. founded by Mrs. A. N. Battelle & son. (10) Ohio St Univ.,
one of country's largest Its 1,400 as. incl. main campus, Olentangy playgrounds &
Univ. farms. Est in 1873 as Ohio Agric. & Mech. College, the univ. now grants
degrees from 10 colleges, grad. & special schools. Orton Hall (1893. Richardson
Romanes.by F.L.Packard). Univ. Hall, oldest bldg. Pomerene Hall (Tudor), women's
social center. Univ. Lib. (1912.Fr.Ren.by Allen & Collins); Lib. & Mus, of State
Arch. & Hist Soc. (O.1913.1936), valuable exhibits of moundbuilder relics &
reprods.; "Coonskin Lib." (see Marietta). (1 1) Sunbury Rd., St Mary of the Springs,
women's academy & college, est. in Somerset, 1830, by Sisters of Dominican Order
(Cath.); wooded campus in residential area. St Albert Hall houses Institutum Divi
Thomae Research Unit (see Cincinnati). (12) In Bexley, Capital Univ. (Luth.), coed,
lib. arts college founded in Canton, 1830. Especially pleasing are Schenk Divinity
Hall & Mees Hall (music), in Tudor Goth. & Science Bldg. (1947-48). (13) 6 m (N)
on Riverside Dr. (US33), Griggs Dam (1908) & Riverside Pk. (f.boatpic.) & (14)
O'Shaughnessy Dam (1925), one of beauty spots of central Ohio (boatf.). Just be-
yond is Mim. loo. (15) From E. Broad St. (N) on James Rd, Fort Columbus Airport
& dints-Wright Corp. Plant (O.appL).
TRIPS OUT OF COLUMBUS
I. (E) on US40 & (N) on Stl3 to NEWARK. 38.
Via: Bexley, Reynoldsburg, Kirkersville, Hebron, Jacksontown. (St.16 is direct alternate
route.)
3.5. BEXLEY. US40 follows route over which stagecoach drivers piloted their
"mountain ships." Sunken milestones & weathered stone taverns are occasional
reminders. 17. ETNA, near Licking Cr. where Johnny Appleseed made his 1st plant-
ing (W) of Ohio R. For 40 yrs., he roamed the wilderness, distributing Swedenbor-
gian literature & handfuls of appleseeds. Thinly dressed & barefoot, carrying his
deerskin pack in all weathers, Johnny Appleseed became the "Saint of the North-
west Territory." In 1840's, the planter of orchards at last ". . . laid him down
sweetly & slept through the night . . . there by the doors of old Ft Wayne . . ."
(Vachel Lindsay). Beyond KIRKERSVILLE, 25., is J. with St.37.
SIDE TRIP: (N) 8m on St.37 to Granville, college town resembling Mass, town for which
it was named in 1806. Granville Literary & Theological Institute (founded 1831 by Bapt
Ch.but chartered as nonsectarian) became Denison Univ. in 1856; ranking coed, school. At
313 E. Broadway is Buxton Tavern (1812); hotel, restaurant
27. HEBRON. J. with St79, alternate route along Licking R. to Newark. 31. JACK-
SONTOWN. Trip turns (N) here on St. 13, passing Dawes Arboretum (O). 38.
NEWARK, in valley bet. forks of river. Licking Cty. was center of great community
of moundbuilders, & in Newark are celebrated Hopewell Mounds. Newark is home
of many skilled artisans required by glass works & other precision-type industries.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Near Cth. Sq., Bank Bldg. by Louis Sullivan. (2) Newark Stove
Co., one of world's largest makers of stoves. (3) Pharis Hre & Rubber Co. (4) A. EL
Heisey Co., known for cut-glass. (5) Holophane Co., makers of fine glassware (above
plants O.appL). (6) Octagon St Mem., enclosing most elaborate of Hopewell earth-
works. Octagon Mound (50 as.) is conn, with Circle Mound (20 as.) by parallel
mounds 300' long & 60' apart. A small circular mound (SE) with elevation (view of
whole area) was possibly seat of tribal dignitaries. Archaeologists believe this mound
system covered 2 sq. miles with avenues leading to other mounds & to (7) Mound
Builders St Mem. (facils.). In center of Great Circle, 12' high & 1,200' in diam. is
Eagle Mound, one of Ohio's few effigy mounds.
n. (SE) on US33 to LANCASTER. 30.
US33 unites with US40 to Bexley, then swings (S) to Canal Winchester, rural center.
Rd. leads (S) c.3 m to Litfaopolis, village of 300 pop. which received (1946) bequest
of $2,500,000 from Mabel Wagnalls Jones, composer & writer, daughter of A. A,
Wagnalls, publisher, who was born in Lithopolis. In Wagnalls Mem. are rare books,
art coll., auditorium. Endowment provides for scholarships. 30. LANCASTER,
birthpl. of Gen. Win. T. Sherman. At 162 E. Main St., Mumaugh Mem. (O.c.1817.
GrJElevO, somewhat similar to Taft H. in Cincinnati (see); period furnishings. 163
US 20 INDIANA 475
E. Main St., Ewing EL (early 1800's), home of Thos. Ewing, U.S. Secy, of Treas. &
adoptive father of Gen." Sherman. (3) 137 E. Main St., BlrihpL of Gen. Sherman
(1811). (4) Broad & Wheeling Sts., Reeves HL (1833.Georg.). (5) Anchor-Hocking
Glass Co. Plant (O.appl.).
HI. (S) on US23 to CMCLEVJLLE. 26. Via: Shadeville & S. Bloomfield.
US23 runs along E. side of Scioto R. (St. 104 parallels route on W. side), following
willow-fringed embankment & old towpaths. At 13. the old O. & E. Canal bed is
close to Rd. 26. CMCLEVELLE, built in early 1800's on circular plan within re-
mains of octagonal moundbuilders' fort. The 1st cth. was octagonal, but burned in
1841 & townspeople replotted their city. Fob. Lib.; hi Mem. Hall is reprod. of Circle-
vine Ft. Pumpkin Show (Oct.). At J. with US22 & St.56.
SIDE TRIP: (SE) 8m on St.56 to Leistvffle. J. with St.159. (NE) 4m on St.159 to Tarlton
Cross Mound St. Mem. (pic.facils.), famous cross-shaped earthwork. At 28m is vantage pt
to view Pickaway Plains, an "opening" in wilderness where the Shawnee lived for half
century. Here was Cornstalk Town, named for chieftain who led Inds. in Lord Dunsmore's
War.
IV. (W) on US40 to LAFAYETTE. 22.
Beyond W. suburbs, US40 runs past pleasant towns, some of whose houses & tav-
erns were built when Nat. Rd. was new. 22 LAFAYETTE. Still a favored inn. is
Red Brick Tavern (O.I 837).
V. (N) on US23 to MARION. 44. Via: Worthington & Delaware.
US23 follows N. High St., past State Univ. 11. WORTfflNGTON (1803), whose
village green & churches reflect New England origin. St John's Ch. (Episc.1831.
tower rest). Opp. is Presb. Ch. (1816.remod.), where Rev. Thos. Woodrow, grand-
father of Pres. Wilson, was pastor. At 778 High St, Griswold EL (1811). 13. Copper-
domed tower of PONTIFICAL COLLEGE JOSEPHMUM (O.appl.) overlooks
100-a. grounds along Olentangy R. The bldgs. (1931.Fr.Ren.) house seminary under
papal jurisdiction. At 18. Rd. leads (W) 2^ to Olentangy Caverns (O.sm-fee). 20.
PERKINS OBSERV. (O) of Ohio Wesleyan Univ. 24. DELAWARE (1806), trading
center for farming & livestock area, seat of Ohio Wesleyan Univ. Mingo & Delaware
Inds. had villages here near sulphur springs. Delaware County Cth. (1936.Georg.).
E. William St. bet. Sandusky & Union Sts., Mon. on Site of Pres. Hayes' BirthpL
On rolling land along R. is Ohio Wesleyan Univ., campus. Est. in 1841 by Meth.
Episc. Ch. Elliot Hall (1835), formerly Mansion H., became 1st univ. bldg. 43.
HARDING MEM. (O). 44. MARION, home of Pres. Harding (see US30).
VL ST.3, US36 & ST.229 to GAMBIER (Kenyon Univ.). 52. Via: Westerville &
Mount Vernon. St.3 (Cleveland Ave.) leads (N) from Broad St 13. WESTERVILLE,
originally a Quaker town, home of Anti-Saloon League (1909) & seat of Otterbeia
College (coed.,lib.arts,accredited), founded & supported by United Brethren. 22. At
SUNBURY route turns (NE) on US36. 47. MOUNT VERNON, distinguished for
fine trees & Class. Rev. & Georg. houses. Leading products are cellophane, engines &
bridge spans. Birthpl. of Daniel Decatur Emmett, author of "Dixie" & "Old Dan
Tucker." Knox County Ctfa. (Class.Rev.). Curtis-Devin H. (1 824-3 6.Class.Rev.). J.
with St229, which leads (E) 5 m to Gambler, home of Kenyon Coll. This men's school,
est. in 1824 by Prot. Episc. church, carries on Eng. school tradition. Students live in
college pk., a wooded tract high above Kokosing R. President Hayes, S. P. Chase &
E. M. Stanton were Kenyon men. Assoc. with college is Bexley Divinity School.
US 20 INDIANA
IND.-OHIO LINE (W) to IND.-ILL. LINE (Chicago limits). 152* US20
Via: Angola, La Grange, (Elkhart), South Bend, New Carlisle, Rolling Prairie, Michigan
City, Gary, Hammond, E. Chicago, Whiting.
US20 takes straight path (W) avoiding large centers. From gently rolling NE. sec.,
with many streams (f.) & Ls., it crosses farmland & mint-growing mucklands of
St Joseph Cty. At end of route, hy. by-passes Michigan City & threads way
through highly industrialized Calumet (see).
10. ANGOLA, resort center. Tri-State College offers 2-yr. courses in engineering,
commerce & music; high school graduation not required. In vie. are several large
Ls. (resort & recr.facils.excellent f .bam.boat), incl. James L., L. George, & Crooked,
Golden, Clear & Hamilton Ls. J. with US27 (see).
476 US 20 INDIANA
SIDE TRIP: (N) 5 on US27 to Pokagon St Pk. (sm.fee,f.boatbath. winter sports), popular
resort area bordering L. James & Snow L. Potawatomi Inn (O.yr.around). Buffalo, elk &
deer are corraled. Simon Pokagon, last Potawatomi chief, wrote "Queen or the Woods &
other tales about So. Bend reg. where he was born.
26. J. with St3
SIDE TRIP: On St.3 (S) 9m to Kendaflvffle, shipping pt for onions, celery & other track
crops of Noble Cry. Known for its fishing waters.
32. LA GRANGE, named by founders (1836) for Lafayette's country estate; trade
center for dairy farmers. J. with St.9.
SEDE TRIPS: (A) On St.9 (S) llm to Rome City, on Sylvan L., former home of Gene Strat-
ton Porter. On site of canal-diggers* camp &, according to legend, named by the Irish who
fought for better quarters & were told the proverb about "living as the Romans do." There-
after, their huddle of shacks became "Rome." Gene Strattou Porter St. Mem. (see also Pt.
Wayne Trip II), cabin (O) in Wildflower Woods where Mrs. Porter lived from 1914 unta
1923, just before her removal to Cal. & her accidental death.
(B) On St.9 (N) 5.5m to Howe. At edge of village is Howe School (mil.), est. in 1884; bldgs.
in Eng. Coll. style.
41.5. J. with St.5, which leads (N) 2 m to Shipsfaewana, Amish trading center, United
Brethren Camp, on L. Shipshewana. Chief Shipshewana Mem. comm. Ind. who
returned from Kansas to die beside crescent-shaped for. L. US20 crosses range of
bills of glacial origin & sweeps down into St Joseph R. valley.
63. ELKHART (sett 1832)
Through RR. & bus conns. Good accoms. & recr. facils.
Elkhart, famous for band instrument factories, was named by Inds. for heart-shaped
island at meeting of St. Joseph & Elkhart Rs., where several trls. converged. City was
chosen by Mich. Southern Ry. for its shops in 1850. Elkhart, though highly indus-
trial, is attractive town with 10 bridges & several fine pks. At 1000 E. Beardsley Ave.,
C. G. Conn Band Instrument Co. (O), est. in 1875 by Capt. C. G. Conn, Civil War
veteran & cornetist 117 Franklin St., Miles Labs. (O), est. in 1884 by Dr. Franklin
Miles; best-known product is Alka-Seltzer. 518 W. Franklin St., Ambrose Bierce H.
(remod.), where writer lived early part of life (born near Pomeroy, O.) & to which
he returned to write "What I Saw of Shiloh." J. with US33.
SIDE TRIP: US33 (SE) llm to Mennonite town of Goshen, seat of Goshen College. Elk-
hart Cty. was largely settled (1841-43) by Amish & the less rigidly disciplined Mennonites.
The black-bonneted Amish women & the men in broad-brimmed black hats are among
world's best farmers. Goshen College, one of few Mennonite colleges in U.S., founded in
1894; courses in theology, liberal arts & teacher training.
74. N. border of MISHAWAKA (on US33), fair-sized town on St. Joseph R. U.S.
Rubber Co.'s Woolen & Rubber Mfg. plant & several large heavy-machinery, steel
& meat-packing plants. Gun Club Preserve (trap-shooting.camp.facils.). In SW. sec.
are neat gardens & homes of some 6,000 Belgians who carae here after World War I.
78. SOUTH BEND (sett 1820)
Main line RR. conns. St. Joseph Cty. Airport, served by 3 major lines. Good accoms.;
also in near-by Mich. & Ind. resorts. Musical, athletic & other events at Univ. & college.
Polish, Hungarian & other festivals. Info.: Assoc. of Com., Main St. & Washington Ave.
South Bend, named for wide loop of St Joseph R., which crosses town, is seat of
Notre Dame Univ. & industrial & trade center for large area in Mich. & Ind. Stude-
baker, Bendix, Singer, Oliver Co. & other major plants are worldwide distributors.
City has virtually no slums & is well-equipped with pks. & playgrounds, schools &
other cultural facils. In 1675 Pere Marquette preached to the Inds. near site & La
Salle met here in 1681 with chiefs of Miami & Illinois. Pierre Navarre est. Amer.
Fur Co. post in 1820, & Notre Dame was founded 22 yrs. later. Along N. Shore Dr.
& other shady sts. are mansions of that early period. PTS. OF INT.: (1) In Leeper
Pk., Pierre Navarre Cabin (1821). (2) 112 S. Lafayette Blvd., Old Cthu (1855), hous-
ing N. Ind. Hist Soc. Mus. (O). (3) Bet US20 & M.C, RR., Bendix Products Division
(O.guides), a city in itself. (4) Prairie Ave. (S) of M.C. RR., Studebaker Corp. (0.
guides); Clement & Henry Studebaker began, in 1852, with wagon-making shop.
Mus. of Trans. (O.Mon.-Fri.). (5) Portage Ave., in Highland Cemetery, Grave of
Knute Rockne. Here also is Council Oak, under which La Salle met with Inds. (6)
In SW. sec., St Mary's College (women), on large campus; founded by Cath. order
in 1855. Loretto Cfaapel. (7) In NE. sec., Univ. of Notre Dame (tours), on one of
world's largest campuses, with golden-domed A din. BIdg. (1879.neo-Goth.) in cen-
US 30 INDIANA 477
ten One of most important Cath. schools for men, founded in 1842; hqs. of Order
of the Holy Cross. Widely known because of Knute Rockne, who came here in 1910.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Rockne Stadium. (2) Our Lady of the Sacred Heart Ch. (Goth.);
17th cent baroque altar, windows by Fr. Carmelite nuns, & Oregon murals. (3)
Badin Log Chapel, replica of one built in 1830 for Father Stephen Badin, 1st priest
ordained in U.S. (4) Wightman Mem. Art Gallery, in Univ.; large art coll.; S. Amer.
Lib. & Dante Coll. J. with US31 (see).
91.5. NEW CARLISLE, a leading market town. Studebaker Proving Grounds (O.
appl.) in vie. 108.5. US20 unites with US35 & passes SE. tip of MICHIGAN CITY
(cloverleaf crossing), 112., largest resort center in Ind. (through RR. & bus conns,
good accoms.& recr.facils.mun.airport). Town, founded in 1832, was once a great
lakepprt, & harbor is one of oldest on Ls. PTS. OF INT.: (1) End of Franklin St,
Washington Pk. (amusements.recr.facils.pic.bathh.); "Singing Sand Beach"; Zoo;
Observ. Tower. Mich. City Harbor; Yacht Basin & Club. (2) Old Ligfath. (1856).
(3) On US12 (E) 1.5 m Internal Friendship Gardens (O.after May 9) representing 60
nations, moved into valley of Trail Cr. from Century of Progress Exposition. Music
Festival & "Gay Nineties Celebration" at Gardens Theaters.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) US12 (W) is route through dunelands. 5m Beverly Shores. 10** J. with
St.49 which leads (N) to Indiana Dunes St Pk. (hotel.cottages.pic.camp.store); 2,200 as. of
woodlands & dunes, some covered with trees & flowers, others bare & desolate, shifting
with the wind. At Big Blowout, bowl-shaped cut in line of dunes, is "graveyard," where
dead trees stick up through sea of sand. Ogden Dunes (f.boat.bath.skiing).
(B) US35 (SE) 12m to La Porte. 10m Pine L. (f.boat.), 1st of 7 Ls. in & around La Porte,
busy resort & mfg. center, (through RR. & bus conns. & airport, accoms.). For the Fr. it
was "the door" to for. & prairie. Among large plants are Allis-Chalmers & various woolen
mills & garment factories. Fox Mem. Pk, on Clear L. In Cth. is La Porte Cty. Hist. Soc.
(O.Tues.). Fish Hatcheiy.
120. FURNESSVBLLE, where Fnrness EL (1856) is still occupied by members of
pioneer family. US20 unites with US12 across lakeside edge of Calumet (see). 152.
IND.-ELL. LINE (SE. of Chicago).
US 30 INDIANA
IND.-OHIO LINE (15 m from Van Wert, O.) (NW) to IND.-ILL. LINE (7 from
Chicago Hts.). 1545. US30
Via: New Haven, Fort Wayne, Columbia City, Warsaw, Bourbon, Plymouth, Val-
paraiso, Dyer. Pa. RR. parallels route. Accoms.: All types. Resorts & recr. areas easily
accessible. US6 is alternate route, avoiding larger centers.
US30 is diagonal path from one industrial area to another across what was once
open prairie, now covered with large, fertile farms. It was the kingdom of Little
Turtle, chief of Miami Confederacy, who defeated Gen. Harmar at Post Miami
(now Ft. Wayne) & was himself defeated at Battle of Fallen Timbers (see).
8. BESANCON. The white Ch. (Cath.) & trim cemetery are souvenirs of Fr.
attempts to settle st's E. border. 20. FORT WAYNE (see). J. with US24 (see), US27
(see), & US33 (see). 41. COLUMBIA CITY, birthpl. of Lloyd Douglas, minister &
religious novelist; & of Ralph F. Gates, "grass-roots Gov."; home for many yrs. of
Vice Pres. Thos. R. Marshall. 54. J. with Stl3.
SIDE TRIP: On St.13 (N) 14m to Syracuse, resort center on L. Wawasee, largest in Ind.
Wawasee Fish Hatchery.
62. WARSAW, seat of Kosciusko Cty., sprinkled with Ls., incl. Winona (S), & Tippe-
canoe (N), source of Tippecanoe R., which US30 crosses just beyond town. 88.
PLYMOUTH, shipping center. Centennial Pk. (camp.). 105. HAMLET (tourist
accoms.). J. with US35, route (N) to Michigan City (see).
SIDE TRIP: On US35 (S) to Tippecanoe R. St Pk. 5m J. with St.8, leading (W) a few
miles to Kankakee Game Preserve (pic.) on Kankakee R., link in Gt. Ls.-Miss. R. route in
early days. La Salle portaged from St. Joseph R. to the Kankakee, 1879, & then downriver
to the Illinois. Surrounding country was vast glacial bog, the Kankakee Swamp, of which
more than 2,300 as. have been acquired by St.; noted for quail, pheasant & sm. game. 12m
Bass L. (camp.trlrs.cottages.hotel); large St. Fish Hatchery (O) on NE, shore. Bass L. Beach
St Pk. (sm.fee.f.camp.pic.bath.restaurant). 17m Tippecanoe R. St Pk. (smJfee.pic.group
camp), 6,340 as. turned over to state by Nat. Pk. Serv. in 1943.
110. US30 crosses Kankakee R. 121. WANATAH. J. with St43.
478 US 24 INDIANA
SIDE TRIP: On St.43 (S) 8m to lacrosse. J. with St8, which passes (W) Pliiney-Piirdue
Experimental Farm. 19 on St.43, Jasper-Pnlaski St Game Preserve (pic.), nearly 5,000 as.
of marsh where quail, pheasant, raccoon, fish & waterfowl are propagated.
US30 crosses highest ridge of glacial moraine in N. Ind. 131* VALPARAISO, seat
of Valparaiso Univ. & Valparaiso Tech. last Founded in 1859 as Meth. coed, col-
lege, Univ. is now probably largest coed. Luth. school. Shortly after Civil War, it
was closed for a time, then reopened by Henry Baker Brown, who made it "the poor
man's Harvard." After Brown's death & World War I, it was sold to Luth. church.
Indiana Steel Co* (O), largest producer of magnets in U.S. Sank Tri. Crossing is
indicated by marker on Pub. Lib. lawn. On St.49 (N) 4 m is Flint L., on which are
Blackhawk Beach (f.bath.boat.) & ESllcrest Pk* & Golf Course (O). 145. J. with
St55, which runs (N) l m to MerrilMIle, stopping pt for Gold Rush travelers in
1849. US30 enters Calumet (see). 153. J. with US41 (see). 156. DYER still has State
Une EL (O), tavern built in 1838. IND.-H1* LINE.
US 24 INDIANA
JKD.-OHIO LINE (3.5 m from Antwerp, O.) (W) to IND.-ILL. LINE (12 from
Watseka). 156. US24
Via: New Haven, Ft Wayne, Roanoke, Huntington, Lagro, Wabash, Peru, Logansport,
Burnettsville, Monticello, Remington, Kentland. Route is paralleled by Wabash & Pa.
RRs. Accoms.
US24 cont (SW) along Maumee R. to Fort Wayne, then runs along beside Little
Wabash & Wabash Rs. on route of Wabash & Erie Canal (see). Leaving this pic-
turesque valley, it crosses one of richest farm areas of ^Midwest Near st. line are
locks of canal that helped develop, then in early 1840's impoverished, the state. 12.
Gronaner JL (1860); near-by is barn where barge mules were stabled. 14. NEW
HAVEN. Here US24 unites with US30. 20. FORT WAYNE (see). J. with US27
(see), US30 (see) & USB 3 (see). 35. ROANOKE, where Roanoke Class. Academy
was founded by F. S. Reefy, in 1861, when st. had few secondary schools; nucleus
of Manchester College (see). 45. HUNHNGTON, busy center of grain & lime-
producing reg. on Little Wabash R.; seat of Huntington College. Jefferson St. Bridge
is possibly unique in U.S., carrying a business block out into the R. Overlooking R.
are La Fontaine Hotel (1923) & imposing Huntington County Cth. City was built
on Miami site ("place of flints")* home of Chief La Fontaine. In NE. sec. is campus
of Huntington College, founded by Ch. of the United Brethren at Hartsville in 1850
& moved to present site in 1897; liberal arts, music, business & theology. At E. Park
Dr. & Warren St., publishing house of "Sunday Visitor" & other Cath. periodicals.
At W. limits is Mem. Pk., with Sunken & Shakespeare Gardens. J. with US224 (alt
route to Ohio Line) & St.5.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.5 (NW) lm to Monastery of St Felix, of strict Capuchin Order.
At 1.5m, in Mt. Calvary Cemetery, is Grave of La Fontaine, Miami chief.
(B) On St.9 (SW) 26m to Marion, RR. & farm center, with many industries; seat of Marion
College. 1st sett, in 1826 & named for Gen. Francis Marion (see), the "Swamp Fox" of
Rev. War. Marion boomed in 1860*s with discovery of natural gas & oil. In Aug. 1930, a
mob hanged 2 Negroes from tree in Cth. Sq. In Matter Pk. (pic.swim.zoo) is Octogenarian
Mas.; coll. of pioneer books, furniture, clothing. Marion College is Wesleyan Meth. teacher-
training school (est.1890). Just S. of city is one of largest U.S. veterans' hospitals.
On US24 (W) a mile or so is Grave of L. P. Milligan (1812-99), prominent leader
of Knights of the Golden Circle, Southern sympathizers in middle states during Civil
War (c.50,000 in Ind.), later known as Sons of Liberty. Beyond Huntington, on hill-
top overlooking the Little Wabash is Victory Noll Training Sen. (Cath.), founded
in 1925 for education of women missionaries in U.S. 47* Fork of the Rivers, where
Miami signed treaty in 1840 giving up their Indiana lands. Miami village was burned
by Harrison's men after siege of Ft. Wayne, in 1812, not long after death of peace-
loving Little Turtle, but it was rebuilt & survived until 1840. Near-by is former
homestead of Chief La Fontaine. 50.5. Stone Aqueduct In LAGRO, 58., the canal
comes vividly to lif e, with main street running along its edge & several locks in good
condition. Keller H. (1840), once one of finest taverns on canal. On St.524 (S) 2
is Salamonie It St For. (pic.f.h.). 62. J. with St 13.
SIDE TRIP: On St.13 (N) 12m, along C.C.C. & StX. RR., to N. Manchester in lovely
Eel R. valley; seat of Manchester College (Ch. of the Brethren), founded in near-by Roa-
US 40 INDIANA 479
noke in 1869; accredited liberal arts college. Along the shady streets are homes of many
Dunkers, German religious sect who came to Pa. in early 18th cent On campus is Chief
Pierish's Cabin. Potawatomi chief, buried beneath floor, was a signer of Treaty of Paradise
Springs (see below). Zion Luth. Ch. (1846), where Lloyd Douglas (see) was pastor (1903-
05). Peabody Mem. Home (Presb.) for aged of any denomination. N. Manchester is birthpL
of Thos. R. Marshall, Gov. & U.S. Vice Pres.
64. WABASH. In Cth. are displayed carbon lamps used to light dome, Mar. 31,
1880, in one of 1st cities in world to be lighted by electricity. In Cth. Sq. is massive
bronze Lincoln of the People, by Chas. Keck. Not far off is Site of Paradise Springs
Treaty, 1826, which opened valley to settlement 79. PERU (through RR. & bus
conns, good accoms. & recr. facils.), still "Circus City"; birthpl. of Cole Porter. Ben
Wallace started circus here in 1884, & Peru has been winter hqs. for large shows
ever since. Lib. Annex Mus. has fine coll. incl. carved Circus Parade, Ind., pioneer
& other relics. Bearss Hotel (O.1837.remod.). Cth. Mus.; cradles, spinning wheels,
vehicles, firearms. Frances Slocum TrL
SIDE TRIP: (S) on Frances Slocum Trl. (marked) along Wabash & Mississinewa Rs. 2.5m
Site of Osage Village, where Tecumseh lighted Council Fire, 1812. Across bridge are Circus
Winter Quarters. Short distance (S), Rd. leads to Grave of Francis Godfrey, last chief of
Miami. Next on Trl. is Home of Cole Porter & near it, "The Old Fashioned Garden" of
one of his popular lyrics. In limestone cliffs along R. are Seven Pillars, cut symmetri-
cally by nature. 7.5m Peoria, village in midst of exceptionally fertile valley. Trl.
leads through Mississinewa R. St. For. Pk. incl. St. Pk. (pic.). About a mile from Peoria
are Home & Grave of Frances Slocum (1773-1847), the White Rose of the Miami, known
as Maconaquah (Young Bear). The child was stolen from her Pa. family in 1778 by Dela-
ware Inds., then adopted by the Miami. She roved the wilderness with them & married a
young chieftain. After nearly 60 yrs. of search, her brother & sister found her in 1837. The
lonely woman had told her story to Geo. Ewing, trader, when he visited the valley. Macono-
quah wished to remain with her children & grandchildren, & Congress, persuaded by John
Quincy Adams, gave her tract of land to be held in perpetuity by her descendants. About
half-way to Marion is Somerset^ on site of Ind, village, theme of Riley's "Among^ the Hills
of Somerset." lalapa is near former home of another Indiana-born poet, Joaquin Miller.
At c.22m is Mississinewa Battlefield, where Miami made their last major stand, Dec. 18,
1812. Trl. merges with St.15.
94. LOGANSPORT (through RR. & bus conns, good accoms. & recr. facils.)^ sett
in 1829, when a wolf scalp was worth a dollar bounty, now attractive industrial &
trade center at meeting of Eel & Wabash Rs. Site was popular trading post for Inds.
& pioneers, & W. & E. canal promoted early growth. Home of Kenesaw Mountain
Landis, judge & former baseball commissioner; also birthpl. of Walker Whiteside
& home of Clarence (Richard) Bennett, actors. On Biddle's I. is BMdle ft (1833),
built for Gen. John Tipton, who had charge of Potawatomi removal from Indiana
over "trail of death," in 1838. Early Hs. still standing incl. Home of G. N* fitch,
orig. owner of Fitch's Glen on the Wabash (pic.). In City Bldg. is Cass Ciy. Hist
Soc. Mus. (O.Fri.&Sat). J. with US35, the "Mich. Rd./ 9 & St.25, on which is St
Hospital for mentally ill. 103. L. OCOTT breaks sleepy landscape of farms & hazy
woodlots. 116. MONT1CELLO, resort town bet Ls. Shafer & Freeman (good
accoms.f .boatswim.), formed by dams on Tippecanoe R. 137* REMINGTON. J.
with St.53.
SIDE TRIP: On St53 (N) c.llm to St Joseph Jr. College, Cath. sch. for men, est.1891.
At 12m Rensselaer, seat of agric. Jasper Cry.
152. KENTLAND, birthpl. of Geo. Ade, celebrated humorist & playwright, whose
"Fables in Slang" is one of earliest & finest records of common Amer. speech.
George Ade ft J. with US41 (see). 156. ETTNER, on IND.-ILL. UNE.
US 40 INDIANA
IND.-OHIO LINE (15 m from Lewisburg, Ohio) (W) to IND.-HJL ONE (9^ from
Marshall, 111). 153. US40
Via: Richmond, Cambridge City, Knightstown, Greenfield, Indianapolis, Plamfield,
Stilesville, Harmony, Brazil, Terre Haute. Good accoms. in larger towns. Route par-
alleled by Perm. RR.
US40, wagon Rd. of 1840's, crosses undulating plain of cent. Ind. On either side
dairy farms, pastures, corn & wheat fields roll away to wooded horizons. Midway
on route is st's capital & largest city. From Indianapolis, scenery is varied by rugged
coal-bearing hills, thick fors. & level prairie.
480 US 40 INDIANA
4. RICHMOND (through RR. & bus conns, airport, accpms. & recr. facils.). In &
around city are Hs. dating back to early settlers, the soldiers of Geo. Rogers Clark.
Later, one of 1st Quaker communities in Ind. made its home in Richmond, & Earl-
ham College was est Abolitionist sentiment was very strong. Town grew rapidly
after Nat. Rd. was cut & is now center of rich trade area & a leading distributor of
many products, particularly roses, lawn mowers, machine tools, pianos & phono-
graph records. PTS. OF INT.: (1) At A & 7th Sts., Site of Henry Clay's Address, in
1842, after which the Friends petitioned him to free his own slaves. (2) A & N. 9th
Sts., in Morton High Sch., Pub. Art Gallery, one of oldest art assocs. in state. J. E.
Bundy & Wm. T. Eyden, among best-known Hoosier landscape painters, were
leading members. (3) llth St., Friends' Meetingju (1865); Wayne Cty. Hist Mus.
(O.free) has pioneer kitchen. (4) At W. limits, Earlham College, founded by Soc^of
Friends in 1847 & early devoted to scientific research. Mus. has 1st natural hist
coll. made in Ind. & Observatory was 1st in St. Modern laboratories. (5) On US40,
"Madonna of the Trail" Mon. (6) Easthaven Ave., Joseph JL Hill Co. (O) where
"Better Times" rose was developed (1931-34). Other large plants: Crosley Corp.,
Starr Piano Co., F. & N. Lawn Mower Co., Nat Automatic Tool Co. & Internat
Harvester Co. J. with US27 & US35.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US27 (N) c.9na to Fountain City, where Levi Coffin's store was a
triam depot for Underground RR. It is said that not one of 2,000 slaves who passed through
Ms door was ever recaptured. Coffin org. a Freedman's Aid Soc. in London, 1864, & was
delegate to Internat. Antislavery Conference in Paris, 1867. Levi Coffin H.
(B) On US35 (NW) 39* to Muncie.
MUNCCE
High St, 600 block, N.Y.C. RR. Sta.; Vine & Wysor Sts., C. & O. Sta.; Race & Madison
Sts., Pa. RR. 410 Mulberry St., Ind. RR. Bus Sta. Mun. Airport (N) 2m. Good accoms.
& recr. facils. Civic & Children's Theaters. Many business & fraternal orgs.
From settlement around RR. sta., Muncie became peaceful rural center & college
town, & then highly industrialized city with considerable interest in the arts. Because
it seemed to them a typical Amer. town, Rbt. & Helen Lynd chose Muncie for
"Middletown." White R. moves in succession of broad loops across N. sec., & along
the drive are large pks. & residential areas. Cth. & business dist are (S) of R. &,
a short distance beyond, the RR. tracks cross middle of city. Farther (S) are many
industrial plants, surrounded by homes of workmen. Munseytown, platted in 1827,
named for Munsee Inds., was inc. as Muncie in 1847. Gas was discovered in 1870's
& during 20-yr. boom, more than 40 factories were built Then gas supply suddenly
ended, but town had gained a sizable pop., mainly native white (as it is today) &
several large companies had become solidly established. Most important is Ball
Bros., known throughout U.S. for their glass fruit jars. To this family, Muncie owes
its Ball Mem. Hosp. & various gifts to Ball Teachers College. City has numerous
musical & dramatic clubs & choral groups & valuable art coll.
PTS. OF INT.: Bet McKinley Ave. & Riverside Dr., Ball St Teachers College. In
1917, the St accepted from Ball family the gift of defunct Muncie Normal Institute
bldgs. & 70-a. campus for a division of Ind. St Normal School (see Terre Haute).
In 1929 the Muncie school became separate institution under present name, Differing
degrees in education & nursing. Adm. Bldg., overhung with ivy, is part of orig. gift
Lib. & Assembly Hall (1927) & modern Science Hall (1924) are important units,
but most beautiful structure on 150-a. campus is Arts Bldg. (1935), with one of best
galleries in Ind. Sculpture Hall has work by Paul Manship & other Amer. & Euro-
pean artists. Paintings range from early Dutch & ItaL to Childe Hassam & contem-
porary Amer. Frank C. Ball Coll. & ItaL Ren. Coll. are notable. Beneficence Mem.
to Ball family (1937.by Dan.C.French & Rich.H.Dana, architect). (2) 2400 Uni-
versity Ave., Ball Mem. Hospital (1929.Tudor Goth.), gift of Ball Bros. Foundation.
(3) Along Wheeling Ave., Delaware Cfy. Fairgrounds. (4) Bet. Crane & Walnut Sts.,
N. of Minnetrista Blvd., Ind. Village Site. Near-by is Cemetery of the Munsee. (5)
Broadway, (N) of R., McCulIough Pk. (pic.plajT5elds.zoo), city's largest. INDUS-
TRIAL PTS. OF INT.: (6) Macedonia Ave. & 9th St, Ball Bros. Plant (O), where
home-canning jars, bottles, glasses & rubber rings are made, along with modern
aluminum pressure cookers. The Ball holdings are widespread, & family is st's most
munificent benefactor. Co. was among last of major plants to sign C.I.O. contracts.
(7) 5th & Elliott Sts., Deko-Remy Corp. (O) & (8) at 1200 W. 8th St., Muncie Prod-
us% Corp. (O); auto accessories & parts. (9) Seymour St. bet Hackley & Blaine Sts.,
US 40 INDIANA 481
Warner-Gear-Division, Borg-Warner Corp. (O). (10) Macedonia Ave., S. of 8th St.,
Owens-Illinois Glass Co.; glass bldg. blocks & insulators.
10.5. CENTERVILLE; good examples of 19th cent, blue-gray brick Hs. O. P. Mar-
ton H. (1842) was home of Civil War Gov. At 323 E. Main St., Geo. W. Julian H.
(O.1846.remod.), former home of U.S. Congressman (1849-51, 1860-71) who intro-
duced woman-suffrage bill in 1868 & was leader of Free Soil party. At 4th & Main
Sts., John Nixon Coll. (O.appl.) of early Indiana paintings, books, almanacs. 20.
CAMBRIDGE CITY, once depot on Whitewater Canal (see US52); canal bed can
be seen along Main St. Vinton H. (O.I 847), tavern since canal days. 21. DUBLIN.
Hie Maples (1825), now store & inn. 33.5. DUNREITH. J. with St3.
SIDE TRIP: On St.3 (N) 3m to Spiceland, sett, in 1828 by Carolina Quakers who est
Spiceland Academy (1834), influential for three-quarters of a cent.; now occupied by
pub. sen. Charles A. Beard, co-author with his wife, Mary Beard, of "The Rise of American
Civilization," has paid tribute to his teachers at the Academy, llm New Castle. Near-by
(NE) is Wilbur Wright BirthpL
37.5. KNIGHTSTOWN, on Big Blue R., birthpl. of Chas. Beard. 44. CLEVE-
LAND, where Eastern Indiana Holiness Assoc. convenes (June & Sept.). 51.
GREENFIELD, birthpl. of Jas. Whitcomb Riley. The "Old Swimmin' Hole" is
preserved in Jas. Whitcomb Riley Pk., & in front of Cth. is Statue of Riley, gift of
school children. Riley Homestead (1850.sm.fee.tearoom.mus.) incl., as its kitchen,
the log cabin where Hoosier poet was born, Oct. 7, 1849. Currier & Ives prints, Viet
furniture & Riley memorabilia. As a young man Riley painted signs, sold Bibles &
shoes & traveled with medicine shows, but always writing verse. He became col-
umnist on "Anderson Democrat" &, later, staff member of "Indianapolis Journal."
52. Eli Lffly Co., biological laboratories. 55. PHILADELPHIA. About a mile (S)
is Annie Gray H., home of "Little Orphant Annie." 72. INDIANAPOLIS (see). 86.
PLAEMFCELD (see Indianapolis Trip IV for this sec. of route). 114. PUTNAM-
VILLE. Near town (S) is St. Farm for short-term prisoners. Entering coal-mining
country, US40 crosses Ten O'Clock Line, at 122., est. as N. boundary of white
settlement by Treaty of Ft. Wayne (1809). Gov. Harrison purchased from Ind. chiefs,
for $10,000 & small annuity, the fertile 3,000,000 as. bet. W abasn & White Rs.
Stretch of hy. overhung by ancient sycamores runs past McKinley Tavern (1834).
129. BRAZIL, on edge of rich coal & clay deposits, has several large brick, tile &
other clay products plants. Clay Cty. Hist Soc. Mus. (O) is in Pub. Lib. In Forest
Pk., at S. limits, Mem. Log Cabin (O).
146. TERRE HAUTE
Union RR. Sta., Spruce & 9th Sts.; Big Four RR. Sta., 7th & Tippecanoe Sts.; Union
Bus Terminal, Cherry & 6th Sts. At 7th St. & Davis Ave., Paul Cox Field, airport (no
sched. serv.). Good accoms. & recr. facils.
Terre Haute, on high plateau along Wabash R., commercial, cultural & banking
center for large mining & agric. area, is Indiana's most exciting city with gaudiest
& wildest past Also it was home of some of st's most notable men & women, incl.
Eugene Debs, Theodore Dreiser, Paul Dresser, Rose Melville, who created "Sis
Hopkins" role, Lyman Abbott, Dan. Voorhees, Gilbert Wilson, painter, & Max
Eastman, founder of "The Masses," whose "Enjoyment of Living** (1948) relates to
his Ind. boyhood. Predominantly a coal town, city also has brick & tile, paint &
varnish, canned goods & other industries. Seat of Ind. St. Teachers College, Rose
Polytechnic Institute & St. Mary-of-the-Woods College (in vie.). U.S. Penitentiary
is (S) 3 m on St.63, a model prison farm (1939-40). In 1811 Gen. Harrison built Ft.
Harrison on Wabash R.; town was platted in 1816. With flatboats & steamboats
arriving at the landing, frequently the terminal, the little town grew rapidly. In 1838,
the Nat. Rd. was completed to Terre Haute, & in 1849 the W. & E. Canal, soon to
be lined with factories, mills, foundries & tanneries. Coal mines were developed to
feed the locomotives, & Vigo Cty. became a leader in coal production.
Labor in Terre Haute has always been an active element, 1st under Knights of Labor
& then through United Mine Workers. One of most publicized strikes began in luly,
1935, in behalf of employees of a stamping company. It developed into effective
general strike (3rd in U.S.) when company imported professional strikebreakers &
ignored warnings of some 50 A. F. of L. unions. Gov. Paul V. McNutt sent in the
militia, pickets were dispersed & strike was soon called off, but the ban was not
lifted until Feb. 1936. (1) 451 N. 8th St., H. of Eugene V. Debs, Socialist leader;
482 US 52 INDIANA
fought against bitter opposition for many social principles later embodied in nat
legislation. Debs, born in 1855, was a locomotive fireman at 16 &, in 1880, secy.-
treas. of Brotherhood of Locomotive Firemen & editor of its newspaper. In 1893 he
org. & was made pres. of Amer. Ry. Union, the 1st industrial, rather than craft,
union. In 1895 he was a leader in famous Pullman Strike & served his 1st prison
sentence. On basis of Social Democratic party, which Debs founded in 1898, the
Socialist Party of UJS. was org. in Indianapolis in 1900, with Debs as U.S. Pres.
candidate. In 1904, 1908, 1912, & 1920, he was again candidate, polling nearly a
million votes in last election, although serving 10-yr. sentence in Fed. prison. Be-
cause of speech in Canton, O., early in 1918, protesting Gov. prosecutions for sedi-
tion, he had been convicted under Espionage Act. In Oct. 1921, Pres. Harding had
him released, without citizenship. He died in 1926. Martin (in "Indiana") calls him
"most effective of the many protestants who have raged through Indiana history."
(2) Bet. Mulberry & Chestnut Sts., Ind. St Teachers College, high-ranking institution
founded in 1870, supported by city & st, has many modern bldgs. on large campus.
(3) 3rd St. & Wabash Ave., Vigo County Ctk, in which hangs bell bequeathed by Col.
Francis Vigo, who gave financial backing to Geo. Rogers Clark's operations. (4)
115 Walnut St., Dresser H., where were born Theodore Dreiser (see Literature),
important Amer. novelist, & Paul (Dresser), his brother, author of "On the Banks
of the Wabash." (5) In Highland Cemetery, at E. limits, is Grave of Dan. Voorhees,
the "tall sycamore of the Wabash"; U.S. Senator & eloquent orator, who defended
John Brown & John E, Cook, after Harper's Ferry raid. (6) End of E. "Ohio Ave.,
Deming Pk. (piazoo), Terre Haute's largest & most scenic recr. area, (7) Bet 2nd
& 3rd Sts., on Ohio St, Mem. Hall (O.wks.); military coll. (8) At W. limits, Rose
Polytechnic Institute, founded as engineering college for men, in 1874. J. with
US150, St.46 (see) &US41 (see).
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US150 (N) 6.5m to St Mary-of-the-Woods College (Cath.) for girls*
The handsome bldgs. (ItaLRen.) are grouped on one of loveliest campuses in St. Girls work
in farm, dairy & other self-supporting projects.
(B) On US41 (N) 2.5^ along Wabash R, to Site of Ft. Harrison (1811), occupied by coun-
try club. From here Gen. Harrison marched to Battle of Tippecanoe (see). At 4.5^ is N.
Terre Haute, mining center.
US40 crosses Wabash R. Along either side are stretches of Dresser Mem. Pk.
148*5* W. TERRE HAUTE. 153. IND.-ILL. LINE.
US 52 INDIANA
OHIO ONE (Harrison, Ohio, 21 m from Cincinnati) (NW) to IND.-ILL. LINE
&* from Sheldon, DDL). 198. US52
Via: W. Harrison, Brookville, Metamora, Rushville, Morristown, New Palestine, In-
dianapolis, Lebanon, Lafayette, (Oxford), Fowler, Earl Park, Kentland, Effner. Hotels
in cities; accoms.: At intervals.
US52 is scenic route through valleys where settlement began & where st's hist was
largely shaped. It crosses Ind. diagonally from southern highlands, cut by long
Whitewater R., then through Indianapolis & farmlands of Wabash valley to prairies
on W. border.
& WEST HARRISON was laid out in 1813, but Oldest H* State St & Broadway,
was built before 1812. Confed. cavalry leader Morgan (see) made last stop in Ind.
in American Hotel* on Harrison Ave; The Confed. raiders were still fighting, al-
though Battle of Gettysburg ended a few days before they brought Ind. its only
Civil War experience.
SIDE TRIP: On country Rd. (route of Morgan's men) 8.5m (W) to Dover, Irish & German
Cath. settlement. St. Paul's Ou (1837) is in New Alsace, 12m, oldest Cath. parish in Ind.
Tour follows Whitewater R., along whose banks are traces of Whitewater Canal,
part of Internal Improvement Program that bankrupted st in 1838. Work began
again in 1842 &, although floods rose above the steep walls, the canal was a lifeline
for settlers until coming of Whitewater Valley RR., 1865. 3. J. with St.46 (see). 8.
NEW TRENTON, where Thos. Manwarring used steps of Manwairing Tavern
(1810) as pulpit on Sundays. At c.16. LITTLE CEDAR BAFT. CH. (1812) one of
oldest Bapt churches in Miss, valley; property of Brookville Hist. Soc. 19. BROOK-
US 52 INDIANA 483
VILLE, platted in 1808, was center of most thickly settled reg., & many early political
leaders came from here. It is birthpl. of Lew Wallace (see), author of "Ben HUT."
End of 8th St., Hermitage (1817), former home of J. Otis Adams (1851-1927),
Hoosier artist. In 700 block on Main St. are Pioneer Hardware Store & Gen, Hanna
H. (1818). At 210 E. 10th St., Governor Ray H. (1825). Extending (W) for miles
along restored tow path is Whitewater Canal St Mem. (pic.), comm. valley's im-
portance in early settlement. Whitewater Canal Aqueduct (1848) spans Duck Creek
at METAMORA, 27. At 29. J. with St.229.
SIDE TRIP: On St229 (S) 14m to Oldenbnrg, outstanding Cath. center, sett by German
people in 1837. Ch of the Holy Family, Convent of the Immaculate Conception, mother
house of sisters of St. Francis, & Oldenburg Franciscan Monastery. A mile from town is
Shrine of the Sorrowful Mother, housing Alsatian "Pieta" carved before Fr. Rev.
31. J. with St. 121, which follows (N) the sinuous W. fork of the Whitewater.
SIDE TRIP: On Stl21 (N) to Connersvffle. 5m Laurel, sett in booming canal days. Stone
barn, on Washington St., site of Canal Basin. Other early bldgs. are Laurel Jail, General
Store, & Whitehall Tavern. On Laurel Hill is high Ind. Mound, 16m Elmhurst, an estate,
with magnificent beeches & elms, on edge of Connersville, industrial city making refrig-
erator cabinets, blowers, pumps, machine tools, caskets & precision parts. City was founded
in 1813 by John Conner who was raised by Inds.; later guide for Gen. Harrison & member
of St. Legislature. Canal Co. Office (Gr.Rev.).
47. RUSHVELLE, founded in 1822 by Dr. Wm. B. LaughHn, of Phila., who named
town for Benj. Rush, signer of Decl. of Ind. At 805 N. Main St, Watson EL, former
home of Jas. E. Watson, whose "As I Knew Them" (1936) is story of 35 yrs. in
Congress. 89. INDIANAPOLIS (see). Beyond metropolitan area (see IndianapoKs
for this sec.), US52 enters farmlands set about with groves of beech, oak & cedar.
116. LEBANON, Boone County Cm. has 3-story monolithic pillars of limestone.
150. LAFAYETTE; & across Wabash R., W. LAFAYETTE, seat of Purdue Univ.
(At limits, US52 By-pass follows Concord R.)
RR. Stas.: Ferry St & Sheridan Rd., Wabash RR.; Alabama & 2nd Sts., Big Four &
Nickel Plate RRs.; North & 5th Sts., Monon RR. & Bus. Sta. Commercial airports.
Good accoms.; recr. facils. in various pks. Purdue Hall of Music (O). Tippecanoe Cty.
Fair. Info.: Ferry & 4th Sts., C. of C.
Lafayette is center of rich dairying, livestock & farming reg.; manufactures elec-
trical appliances, automotive tools & many other products. Town was founded in
1825 & named for Fr. Gen. then being welcomed in U.S. PTS, OF INT.: (1) 909
South St., Tippecanoe Cty. Hist Mus. (O). (2) Main & Scott Sts,, Columbian Pk.
(pic.ample playfields); large zoo. (3) On bank of R., Tippecanoe County Cth. (1882),
with Statue of La Fayette, by Lorado Taft (4) Industrial plants incl.: Ross Gear &
Tool Co., Aluminum Co. of Amer., Ralston Purina Co. Mills,
SIDE TRIP: On US52 By-pass & St43 (N) c.6m to J. with Rd. (E) to Battleground. Near
village is Tippecanoe Battlefield St. Mem. (pic.facils.) on site of battle between Gen. Har-
rison^ forces & Inds. under White Cloud, the Prophet, brother of Tecumseh, on Nov. 7,
1811. Tippecanoe & Wabash Sts., Site of Prophet's Town, est. in 1808. Alcohol was pro-
hibited, & cornfields were carefully tended. Tecumseh's plan for Ind. confederacy to deal
with the whites alarmed Gen. Harrison. At conference in Vincennes, Tecumseh suggested
truce while he conferred with tribes & with Pres. Madison, but, after Tecumseh departed,
Harrison led about 1,000 men to encamp near Prophet's Town. Without Tecumseh to
counsel him, the Prophet launched attack. Battle was indecisive & increased Ind. hostility,
but power of Tecumseh & the Prophet in Northwest was broken.
Across Main St Bridge from Lafayette is W. LAFAYETTE, 152., home of Purdue
Univ., land-grant institution est in 1869 with gift of land & funds from John Purdue
& others. Univ. ranks high among agric. & engineering schools, & holdings incL
nearly 6,500 as. Heavilon Hall (1895), with clock tower. Univ. Hall (1877); grave
of John Purdue near-by. Mem. Union Bldg. (1924-39). Purdue Hall (1873), where
are rooms once occupied by George Ade, Booth Tarkington & other famous alumni
Hall of Music (1939-40). In Mech. Eng. Bldg. is Railway Mus. On Northwestern
Ave., Ross-Ade Stadium (1924). In W. sec., Seneca (1946) & Chippewa (1947) Dor-
mitories. Purdue Airport (large & modern). On South R. Rd. (S) c.4^ is Site of Ft
Ouiatenon (pic.cottages), built by Fr. under La Salle, c.1720, & taken over by Brit at
end of Fr. & Ind. War, 1763. Ind. villages around it were destroyed in 1791.
185. US52 unites with US41 (see) to 194. KENTLAND (see), J. with US24, which
unites with US52 to JND.-ILL. LINE, at ETTNER, 198.
484 ST. 46 INDIANA
ST. 46 INDIANA
J. WITH US52 (3* from W. Harrison, at Ohio Line) (W) to TERRE HAUTE.
Via: Batesvffle, Greensburg, Columbus, Gnaw Bone, Nashville, Bloomington, Spencer,
Riley. Accoms. in larger centers; camp sites.
Midway on route is Indiana's scenic reg. in Brown, Monroe & Owen Counties, with
many as. reserved in St. Fors. & Pks. St.46 crosses Whitewater Cr. & cont. directly
(W). At 8. J. with St.l, cross-state (N-S) route along E. border. 24. BATESVILLE,
attractive settlement of German & other craftsmen employed in large furniture fac-
tories. 39. GREENSBURG, at J. of Penn. & C.C.C. & St.L. RRs.; in natural gas
belt. A curiosity of town is Tree on Cth. Tower. J. with St.29 (see Indianapolis Trip
HI). 67. COLUMBUS. J. with US31 (see). 82* GNAW BONE, crossroads village in
beautiful, sparsely settled wilderness. Some farming is done between the hills, &
tourist trade is good. 84. Rd., across creek, to Brown Cty. St. Pk. (f.h.swim.lodge.
cottages.camp.recr.facils.guides), largest & most scenic in st, covering 16,700 as.
(incl. game preserve). Miles of trls. & drives around Ls., over ridges & through deep-
cut valleys. Many artists have painted these woods in autumn color or in early
spring. Archery Area, Wildlife Exhibit, Game Sanctuary, Observ. Tower. Along one
f highest ridges is Swallow Trl. Lafe Bud Trl. leads up Weedpatch Hill (airport &
fire tower). Pk. is mem. to Frank McKinney (Kin) Hubbard (1868-1930), whose
"Abe Martin," rustic philosopher of Brown Cty., is comm. by Abe Martin Lodge,
near entrance,
87. NASHVILLE, among Cumberland Hills, is favorite tourist stop well-known
for colony of Hoosier artists. Art Gallery (sm.fee), exhibits work of Brown Cty. Art
Assoc. Log Jail (1837). Brown Cty. Mus. (sm.fee). Near Cth., Liars' Bench on lawn.
95. BELMONT. Rd. leads (N) to Ault & Yellowwood Ls. in Yellowwood St For*
(free.f.h.pic.shelterh.), 20,000 as. St Fish Hatchery (O). Adj. is Hoosier Nat For.
(f.h.camp.pic.); hqs. at Bedford (see US50). The 500,000-a. purchase unit extends
(S) from Bloomington (see below) to Ohio R. Among the jumbled hills are limestone
caves, quarries & mineral springs. Sawmills & factories are being developed in
eroded areas. Few camp sites, but hotels & cabins easily accessible in near-by towns.
Short way (S) from Belmont is T. C. Steele St Mem. (sm.fee), former estate of Theo.
C. Steele (1847-1926), dean of Hoosier painters. Hilltop Studio (0): landscapes &
other paintings. TraHside Mus. (O). 101.5. J. with Rd. to Ind. Univ. Astronom*
Observ.
106. BLOOMINGTON (1815), seat of Indiana Univ.; more than 20 limestone quar-
ries & mills in vie. In business dist. around limestone Monroe County Cth. (1908)
may be heard the genuine Hoosier dialect. Indiana Univ., one of oldest in this part
of country, was founded as Indiana Seminary in 1820, became a college in 1828 &
st. univ. in 1852; coed, since 1867. Degrees are conferred in College of Arts & Sci-
ences & Schools of Education, Medicine (in Indianapolis), Law, Dentistry (in In-
dianapolis), Business, Music & Health. Univ. was one of sponsors of study on human
sex behavior in charge of Alfred C. Kinsey, Prof, of Zoology. Among famous alumni
are Theodore Dreiser, Wendell Willkie, Hoagy Carmichael & Paul V. McNutt
Older bldgs., mostly of limestone, form part of quadrangle facing Indiana Ave.; N.
are Lib. ( 1 907. remod. 1942); Student Hall (1906), Maxwell Hall (1890), Law School;
& Owen HaU (1884). On E. side Wylie (1900), Kirkwood (1894) & Science Halls
(1902). Biology & Swain Halls form S. side, while modern Adm. Bldg. (1936) com-
pletes quadrangle (W). Kirkwood Observ. (1900). Mem. Union Bldg. (1932). Art
Center (1941). Mem* Stadium. In neighborhood are Howe H. (1834), Wylie H. (O.
1835) & Hinkle H. (O.appL).
113. ELLETTSVTLLE. Some of Indiana's finest quarries in vie. 121. McCOR-
MICK'S CR. ST. PK. (sm.fee.hotels.cabins.camp.pic.trls.guides.swim.f.recr.facils.).
Creek cuts bet limestone walls to White R. Among beech & pine groves are group
camps, Log Cabin (1810) & Mus. (free). 123. SPENCER, in rich limestone & agric.
area, is birthpl. of Wm. Vaughn Moody (1869-1910), author of 'The Great Divide."
Here also was home of Wm. Herschell (1873-1939), who wrote "Ain't God Good to
Indiana?" Log Courth. (1820). 138. BOWLING GREEN (1825). Old Settlers Re-
union in the fall. St.46 crosses Eel R., dear to the Delaware Lids, for the abundant
US 50 INDIANA 485
"snakefish." 157. RBLEY. Near here are stretches of W. & E. Canal & Canal Reser-
voir. 168. TERRE HAUTE (see). L with US40 (see) & US41 (see).
US 50 INDIANA
IN3X-OHIO LINE (18 from Cincinnati, Ohio) (W) to IND.-ILL. LINE (8 m from
Lawrenceville, III). 173. US50
Via: Lawrenceburg, Aurora, Versailles, N. Vernon, Seymour, Brownstown, Bedford
Shoals, Washington, Vincennes. Paralleled roughly by B. & O. RR. US150 is alternate
route, uniting with US50 about midway.
US50 enters characteristic Hoosier country. Hillsides in spring bloom with lupine,
violets & flowering shrubs, & in hazy Indian summer, goldenrod, wild aster & gen-
tian border the roadsides. Along center of route, limestone cliffs rise from placid
farmlands. Reforestation & rear, projects, incl. units of Hoosier Nat. For., occupy
thousands of as. of worn-out land. Bet forks of White R. is fertile valley producing
st.'s major crop corn; around Vincennes are spreading peach & apple orchards.
0. Stone marker (1838) on Ohio-Ind. Line. 3.5. GREENDAJLE. Aroma of ferment-
ing mash for whiskey has been familiar here for more than 100 yrs. On Brown St,
(R) from intersec. with US50, is Old Quaker Plant (O.appLtours), on site of 1st dis-
tillery (1809). James Walsh & Co. Distillery (O.appLtours). J. E. Seagram Plant (O.
appltours), largest in city. 5. LA.WRENCEBURG (sett.1801). Ferry. Scattered
through town are evidences of its hist, as popular port in steamboat days. Flood of
1937 destroyed thousands of homes behind city's broken levee. In Beecher Presb.
Ch., the 24-yr.-old Henry Ward Beecher had his 1st pastorate in 1837. Vance-Tousey
H. (O.wks.1818) was one of finest mansions along R. 9, AURORA. Many fine Hs,
here also belong to the past. Favorite landing for shantyboaters, who divide their
days between hill & river. J. with St.56 (see Ohio R. Tour). 20. DILLSBORO, min-
eral spa. 30. VERSAILLES ST PK. (f .camp.group camp.pic.riding); nearly 5,400-as.
acquired from Nat. Pk. Serv. in 1943. Pub. hunting ground for archers. Semi-annual
field trials for hunting dogs (horses for rent) has made pk. widely known for its
excellent running grounds. At VERSAILLES the big event is Pumpkin Show &
Farmers* Fair (Oct.). Aluminum spire of ultra-modern Tyson Temple (1937) rises
above 19th cent. Hs. & modest business bldgs. Morgan Raid Marker, on Ripley
County Cth. (1852) lawn, tells of hasty looting by Confed. soldiers in 1863.
53. NORTH VERNON, platted in 1834; RR. center. On St7 (S) is small but lovely
Muscatatnck St Pk. (cottages.pic.f.). Muscatatuck Inn. 65. J. with US31 (see). 68.
SEYMOUR, modern factory & RR. town. Swope Mem, Art Gallery (O.wks.). 78.
BROWNSTOWN (sett.1816), typical Hoosier farm town. J. with St.39 & Stl35.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St39 (SE) 2m to Jackson Cty. St. For. (f.^ic.).
(B) On St.135 (SW) 3.5m to Ft VaHonia (1805). Near-by (S) is large Driftwood St Fish
Hatchery (O).
104. BEDFORD, attractive city with many stone Hs. & neat streets; center of St's
limestone industry. Bedford stone was used in Empire State & many other notable
bMgs. Indiana Limestone Corp. Mills & Quarries (O.appL). On St.158 (W) is Moses
Fell Annex Farm (O.guides) of Purdue Univ. (see). J. with St.54, which leads (NW)
6 m to Avoca St Fish Hatchery (0). In Bedford are Hqs. of Hoosier Nat For. Pur-
chase Unit (see). US50 unites with St.37 beyond White R. Bridge, 107., then winds
gradually (W) through rocky country & thick hardwood fors.
SIDE TRIP: On St.37 (S) 6m from bridge to Mitchell; (E) on St.60 to Spring Mill St Pk.
(sm.fee.f .swim.boat.hotels.cottages.camp.pic.), where is authentic restoration of Spring Mill
Village, founded in 1815 in hidden valley. Other features are 100 as. of virgin timber;
Donaldson's Care (boat trips), through which winds underground R. famous for its blind
fish; Twin Caves (boat trips). Spring Mill Village began with gristmill &. limestone quarry
opened by Sam. Jackson, ensign under Perry at Put-in-Bay (see Ohio). The properties
changed hands several times but, by 1850, an elegant village & stagecoach stop surrounded
a great gristmill built in 1816-17. Ox-drawn wagon fleets traveled to distant markets, &
barges floated lumber, flour & whiskey down to faraway New Orleans. When the RRs.
shied away from the rock-walled valley, the village began to decline. Meanwhile George
Donaldson, eccentric Scotsman, had bought a cave & some land extending across valley's
only outlet, & he wanted Ms retreat left in its natural state. Spring Mill died & weeds &
grass were rank in the streets when Donaldson went home to Scotland to die (1897).
A few yrs. later, Dr. Carl H. Eigenmann, Indiana Univ., discovered in Donaldson's Cave
the rare blind fish he had sought in many parts of the world. His "Cave Vertebrates o*
486 US 41 INDIANA
America" (1909) incl. study of these "dim-eyed" fish. When St. Pk. system was begun
in 1920's under Col. Richard Lieber, Lawrence Cty. offered the Donaldson tract. Col.
Lieber found that Lehigh Portland Cement Co. owned the crumbling ruins in the valley
but would give site to the St. it* he would fulfill his dream of a restoration. Spring Village
was brought completely to life. The gristmill, with orig. burrs & stones & wheels, was
rebuilt. Big logs pass under the saw in the slash mill, pioneer Hs. stand in gray-walled
gardens, & along main street are still-house, tavern, hat & cobbler shops, loom house &
pottery plant.
124. MARTIN CTY. ST. FOK. (piamotor rd.), replanted with pine by CCC. Be-
yond, in rocky valley of White R., the Knights of the Golden Circle brooded over
dreams of a southwestern empire; & during prohibition era, moonshiners & racket-
eers sheltered in the hills. 128. SHOALS. J. with US150, which unites with US50
to state line. A short distance from Shoals (N) are the fantastic Jug Rock (pic.) &
McBrides Bluffs, characteristic formations of Indiana's highlands. Along White R.
are numerous caves, crystal springs & small waterfalls. Bet. forks of White R. are
thousands of fertile as., incl. farms of the industrious Amish. 152. WASHINGTON,
on site of Ft. Flora (1805). Van Trees H. (1843.Gr.Rev.) has Doric columns hand-
carved from tree trunks. 172.5. VINCENNES (see), in the orchard country of
Wabash Valley. 173. US50 crosses Lincoln Mem. Bridge at ELL.-IND. LINE.
US 41 INDIANA
IND.-HX. TJNR (Chicago) (S) to KY. LINE (6 m from Henderson, Ky.). 288. US41
Via: Hammond, Highland, Sumava Resorts, Morocco, Kentland, Earl Park, Boswell,
Attica, Rockville, (Clinton), Terre Haute, Sullivan, Busseron, Vincennes, Princeton,
Evansville. RR, & bus conns. & accoms. at larger centers & resorts.
US41, heavily traveled route from L. Superior to Fla., enters Ind. at (S) limits of
Chicago & crosses industrial Calumet (see). In belt of dark rich soil beyond, every
acre seems to be truck farm or garden spot. US41 then runs along W. side of state,
in Wabash valley for many miles.
See. 1: IND.-ILL. LINE to TERRE HAUTE. 173.
C5. HAMMONB (see Calumet). 10.5. MtTNSTER, at edge of sandy ridge that
once shored L. Mich. Hy. beyond town is lined with fruit stalls, markets, gas sta-
tions & lunch stands. 12.5. HIGHLAND, settled largely by Dutch truck farmers.
17. J. with US30 (see). 22. J. with St8.
SIDE TRIP: On St8 (E) 6m to Crown Point, seat of industrial Lake Cty,; founded in
1834. In 1934 John Dillinger escaped from Lake Cty. Jail.
26. Short distance (E) of hy., Cedar L. (hoteLcabins.boats). 37. Edge of great Elan*
fcakee Marsh (see US30). US41 crosses Kankakee R. 41. SUMAVA RESORTS
extend for mile or more along R., & for many miles small villages dot the farm
country. 69. KENTLAND, J. with US24 (see). 75. Earl Park, spacious little town
canopied by maples. US41 speeds ^through thinly settled country along route of
Gen. Harrison's army on way to Tippecanoe (see). 88. BOSWELL. Few towns or
tourist stops for many miles. 106.5. J. with St.28, which leads (S) l m to WilKamsport,
founded in 1828. Stone Tavern, on Old Town Hill, is reminder of once busy port
on spur of W. & E. Canal. Fall Creek drops over high sandstone ledge & follows
rocky gorge to Wabash R. 107.5. J. with Rd. along Wabash.
US41 crosses Wabash R. to ATTICA, 108.5., farm & mfg. town on site of Potawatomi
village. Early home of Dr. John Evans (1814-97), influential in founding North-
western Univ. in Evanston, 111. (named in his honor), & Colorado Seminary, which
became Univ. of Denver. In 1862, Evans was appointed Terr. Gov. of Colorado.
Harrison Steel Castings Co, (O.appl.). Along Wabash (SW) are Portland Arch &
Bear Cr. Canyon. 121.5. STERLING. J. with St.34; (W) of J. on St34 is Veeders-
feurg, brick-making center.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.34 (W) 7m to Orpington, early rivertown. Most widely known
citizen was Edw, A. Hannegan, considered Dan. Webster's rival in eloquence. At 5th &
Jefferson Sts. is Hannegan H. At 8th & Crocker Sts., Home of Lew Wallace (see below),
during term as prosecuting attorney for Fountain Cty. The Ohio-born Hannegan (1807-
59), a man of dynamic charm & violent impulse, became U.S. Senator in 1842 & was
appointed Minister to Prussia in 1849. Recalled, he entered race for nomination as Demo-
US 41 INDIANA 4&1
cratic candidate for Presidency. In violent quarrel after heavy drinking, Hannegan killed
bis brother-in-law &, although exonerated, never recovered from the shock. Lew Wallace^
who presented weak case against his friend, had to leave Covington.
(B) On St34 (E) 21m to Crawfordsvilie, sometimes called the Hoosier Athens because it
is seat of Wabash College & former home of Maurice Thompson, Lew Wallace, & Mere-
dith Nicholson. In residential sec. are fine houses on pleasant streets, while business dist
is crowded with brick bldgs. of a mfg, & trade center. Pike St & Wallace Ave., Lew
Wallace Study (O.wks.), a square, porticoed tower. Wallace, best known as author of "Ben
Hur," was Civil War Gen., Terr. Gov. of New Mex. & Minister to Turkey. 205 S. Walnut
St., Home of Meredith Nicholson, diplomat & distinguished writer. Besides his romantic
novels, Nicholson wrote "The Hoosiers," "The Poet," a life of Riley & other nonfiction.
Maurice Thompson, who spent most of his life here, is widely known for "Alice of Old
Vincennes." In beautiful Henry S. Lane H. (O.wks.sm.fee.Georg.) is Montgomery Cty.
Hist. Soc* Mus. Col. Lane was 1st nat. chairman of Republican party. Wabash College
(Presb.), nonsect. liberal arts college for men, founded in 1832. Forest Hall (1832), orig.
bldg. Modern bldgs. are Pioneer Mem. Chape!, Yandes Lib*, Goodrich HalL Vice-Pres.
Thos. Marshall, Gov. J.P. Goodrich & Lew Wallace attended Wabash.
138.5. J. with St.47.
SIDE TRIP: On St.47 (E) 1.5m to Turkey Run St. Pk. (sm.fee.hotels.cottages.camp.f.boat
swim.archery & other sport facils.), with virgin timber stands & rocky gorge of Sugar
Creek; unusual diversity of vegetation & wildlife, 50m of trls. & bridle paths.
At c.141. Hadley Mon., to Alfred & Rhoda Hadley, Quakers active in Underground
RR. 147. ROCKVBLLE, quiet home of many retired farmers. J. with US36, which
runs (W) 17^, past Dana, birthpl. of Ernie Pyle, to III Line. In country (SW) from
Rockville, grim little coal towns surround the numerous shaft mines. 158. CLIN-
TON, (W) of hy. on St.163, founded in 1829, is the largest center. 168. NORTH
TERRE HAUTE, coal-mining town. Settlement grew up around Marble Mill (1816),
the ruins of which still stand. 173. TERRE HAUTE (see). L with US40 (see), St.46,
(see), & US150, with which US41 unites.
Sec. 2: TERRE HAUTE to KY. UNE. 115.
The gently rolling country is fine for cantaloupe & other fruits. 0, TERRE HAUTE.
18. J. with St48.
SIDE TRIP: On St.48 (E) through country wasted by strip-mining to Shakamak St Pk.
(sm.fee.cottages.camp.group camp.f.swim.boat.). Wildlife exhibit of deer, buffalo, elk &
waterfowl. Coal Mine (O).
SHELBURN, just (S) of J., is fairly large mining town. 1st coal mine in reg. was
sunk here in 1868. 27. SULLIVAN, scene in 1925 of one of state's worst mining
disasters, when gas explosion trapped 55 men. Home town of Will Harrison Hays,
motion picture executive, who loves this 'Valley of democracy." 28. J. with St.54
(E). 29. J. with St.54 (W).
SIDE TRIP: On St.54 (W) 9m to Merom Bluffs, highest on the Wabash, named for L.
where Joshua fought the Canaanite kings. Near Merom (E) are traces of prehist. mounds.
33. CARLISLE, sett early in 19th cent; for many yrs. an active mining center. la
Cemetery are buried "Handy" Handley, who crossed the Delaware with Gen. Wash-
ington, & Jas. L. Scott, 1st chief justice in Ind. Terr. U.S. Center of Pop. (1940) is
(SE) c.2^ from Carlisle. 39. OAKTOWN, center of oil & gas reg. & shipping pt
for fruits. In vie. is Shaker Prairie, where communal sect lived for 70 yrs.
58. VINCENNES
Washington & Wabash Aves., Union RR. Sta. 429 Main St, Bus Terminal Good
accoms. & recr. facils. Info.: C. of C., in City Hall.
Vincennes, once capital of Northwest Terr. & (for a few months) of Louisiana
Purchase as well, is full of the whole Amer. past It Is built on site of Chippecoke,
capital city of Ind. tribe, & in encircling hills are mounds of prehist. Americans.
Bet. pylons of Lincoln Mem. Bridge, a hy., (US50), runs (W) to Lincoln country &
the Great West Clark's taking of Brit. Ft. Sackville at Vincennes in 1779 was a
decisive victory, & Gen. Harrison was hero of later battles that won the Ind. lands.
Vincennes is also a modern industrial city & market for wide area incl. Knox Cty.,
which is 2nd in st in diversified agriculture, 1st in peach & apple orchards & in
acreage in cantaloupes, watermelons & wheat & a leader in production of coal.
In late 17th cent., a trading post was est. on riyerbank. In 1732, Francois Morgane de
Vincennes was in command of Fr. fort on this site, & his name was given to settle-
488 US 31 INDIANA
ment in 1736, the yr. in which lie was burned at the stake by the Chickasaw. After
1763 post became Ft. Sackviile, one of principal Brit, forts. In summer of 1778, Geo.
Rogers Clark sent Father Gibault from Kaskaskia (see 111.) to persuade the Creole
villagers at Vincennes to take Amer. side. When Gen. Hamilton, Brit, "hair buyer"
from Detroit, took over the ft., a wealthy Ital. trader, Francis Vigo, took the news
to Clark & gave financial support to attacking expedition. Ft. Sackviile was sur-
rendered Feb. 25, 1779. Neither Father Gibault nor Vigo was ever properly re-
warded by Gov. The Fr. & Creole (Fr.-Ind.) settlers of Vincennes were a gay &
carefree people. Then in 1840's, a thrifty German Cath. colony built up the "Dutch
Flats" & gradually beyond the R. (N) became characteristically Amer. with com-
munity of mixed stock. Probably best way to see Vincennes is to start with Mem.
Bridge, within a half-mile radius of which are all hist, sites of vanished "French-
town." Beyond business dist. are residential areas bordered by exclusive Burnett
Heights & (E) & (N) by homes of working people.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Clark Mem. Plaza stretches along waterfront & over Site of
Ft Sackviile. Foot of Baraett St. is Geo. Rogers Clark Mem. (O) to "Conquest of
the West," erected in 1931-33, by Fed. Gov. at cost of $3,000,000. Granite terraces
ascend from wide plaza to circular colonnaded temple (Doric). Murals (by Ezra
Winter). Siatne of Clark (by Hermon MacNeil). (2) Lincoln Mem. Bridge (1931),
part of Lincoln Nat Mem. Hy. from Hodgenville, Ky., to Springfield, 111. (see), at
pt where Lincoln family crossed in 1830. (3) E. of bridge is granite Statue of Francis
Vigo (by John Angell). (4) 2nd & Church Sts., St. Francis Xavier Cathedral (O.sm.
fee,1825-26.Romanes.). Bell from 1st log chapel (c.!702.recast). Father Simon Brute
de Remur, 1st bishop of Vincennes Diocese (now Indianapolis), is buried beneath
altar. (5) On Cathedral grounds, French Cemetery, where Inds., missionaries,
soldiers, Fr. & Amer. settlers are buried in unmarked graves. (6) Adj. to Cathedral,
Old Cathedral lib. (1843); parish records from 1749 & Father Brute's lib. (7) Church
St., opp. Cathedral, Statue of Father Pierre Gibault (by Albin Polasek). (8) 2nd St
bet Church & Barnett Sts., Chapel of St Clare's Convent, founded in 1824; prede-
cessor of St Rose Academy (1843 .now at 5th & Seminary Sts.)* (9) 2nd & Barnett
Sts., site (supposed) of Home of "Alice of Old Vincennes,'* who raised Amer. flag
over Ft Sackviile. (10) 10th St., in Greenlawn Cemetery, Grave of Francis Vigo.
(11) 5th & Busseron Sts., Vincennes Univ. coed. jr. college; founded in 1806. (12) In
Harrison Pk., First Terr. Capitol (c.!800.rest.O.sm.fee), used until capital was
moved to Corydon (see) in 1813. (13) Park & Scott Sts., the Win. H. Harrison Man-
sion (1803-04.0.sm,fee.); 1st burnt-brick bldg. W. of Alleghenies; orig. & period
furnishings. (14) 111 N. 2nd St, Ellis H. (1830), now Harmony Club; built of
hand-quarried local stone. (15) 214 NW. 2nd St., Pub. Mus. (O.free); Ind., pioneer &
art colls.; concerts, exhibits. INDUSTRIAL PTS. OF INT. (O.appL): (16) Washington
Ave., Brown Shoe Co, (17) 537 Willow St., Blackford Window Glass Co. (18) 1312
Chestnut St., Tip-Top Creamery Co., one of largest in state. (19) 703 State St.,
Vincennes Packing Corp., canners of "Alice of Old Vincennes" brand.
IN ENVIRONS: (20) Indian Mounds, some of largest in Ind. Sugar Loaf Mound,
about 3 4-mile (E) on St.61, is most picturesque. (21) Clark's March on Vincennes
(marked route), terminating 9 m (S). At 7 is Rd. to Clark's Ferry (sm.fee) to St
Francisville, Hi, where Clark & his men crossed. J. with US50-US150 (see US50).
US41 passes KNOX CTY. EXPER. FIELD of Purdue Univ. 83. PRINCETON,
largest of several shipping centers in cantaloupe & fruit reg. Lincoln brought wood to
the mill here in 1827. 112. EVANSVILLE (see Ohio R. Tour). 115. US41 crosses
Ohio R., IND.-KY. ONE.
US 31 INDIANA
im-MICHL LINE (5 from Niles, Mich.) (S) to IND.-KY. LINE (Louisville, KyA
262. US31
Via: South Bend, Plymouth, Rochester, Peru, Kokomo, Westfield, Indianapolis,
Franklin, Columbus, Seymour, Uniontown, Scottsburg, Jeffersonville. Through RR. &
bus conns. & accoms. at short intervals. Paralleled by main line RRs.
US31, one of most heavily traveled (N-S) routes, begins in Ind. in resort area near
L. Mich. & crosses several of st's largest centers.
US 31 INDIANA 489
Sec. 1: Em-MICH. LINE to INDIANAPOLIS. 145.
Route begins in fruit & truck-garden area, also one of chief mint-growing reg. of
U.S. (Mich, & Ind.). Peppermint was introduced from Europe in 19th cent &, since
1900, U.S. has produced much of world's supply. Plant grows a foot or two high
before harvesting. Then the cut mint is sent to distilleries in Lake & St Joseph
counties.
6. SOUTH BEND. J. with US20 (see). 17. LAKEVELLE, resort 22. J. with US6
(see). 29. PLYMOUTH. J. with US30 (see). Lake of the Woods, in hardwood for.
Sass L. & numerous other Ls. in vie. (f.boatcottages.resort facils.). 28. J. with St. 10.
SIDE TRIP: On StlO (W) 10m to Cnlver Military Academy (est.1894), well-known boys'
school on banks of L. Maxinkuckee (good f.), 2nd largest in Ind. Ciilver is resort town.
US31 crosses Uppecanoe R. near spot where Potawatomi signed treaties giving up
their lands. 49. ROCHESTER, resort town. Cole Bros. Circus Winter Hqs. On llth
St., Friends Meetingh., now Wayne Cty. Hist Soc. Mus. (O). On neighboring L.
Manitou (f.recr.facils.hotels.cabins) is Fed. Fish Hatchery (O). 67. EEL R., long
associated with Little Turtle & the Miami. 72. PERU. J. with US24 (see).
93.KOKOMO(est.l844).
Through RR. & bus conns. Municipal Airport, for Delta airlines. Ample accoms. &
recr. facils. Info.: C. of C. 5 in Courtiand Hotel.
Kokomo was home of Elwood Haynes, inventor, & Elmer Apperson, builder, of
1st mechanically successful "horseless carriage," in 1893-94. Town is vigorous &
civic-minded industrial center, producing steel, automobile parts & accessories,
china, stoves & radios. In Pioneer Cemetery is Mon. to Makokomo, Miami Chief.
On Main St., (S) of Wildcat Cr., Machine Shop where pioneer gas automobile was
built. J. with US35, which leads (SE) 3^ to Elwood Haynes MOIL, on spot where
test run began. 108. J. with St.28.
SIDE TRIP: On St.28 (E) 14m to Elwood, market center for leading tomato reg. BirthpL
of the late Wendell L. Willkie, Pres. candidate (1940) & author of "One World." At 23^
Alexandria, center of rock-wool industry. Johns-Manville Co. Plant (O.appL), 1st pro-
ducer of rock-wool insulation.
125. WESTFIELD, noted Underground RR. sta. (7 (E) on St32 is Noblesvffle,
sett in 1823. Tourist PL & Camp). 145. INDIANAPOLIS (see). J. with US52 (see),
US40 (see) & US36.
Sec. 2: INDIANAPOLIS to KY. LINE. 117.
0. INDIANAPOLIS (see Indianapolis Trip IV for next 40 miles). 40. US31 forks,
main tour by-passing Columbus, while US31A crosses downtown sec. 43. COLUM-
BUS. (Through RR. & bus conns, accoms.golf & other recr. facils.) In 1820, Gen.
John Tipton, hero of Ind. wars, built cabin in bottomlands of White R. He offered
land for cty. seat to be named for him, but the commission decided to forget "Tip-
tonia," & the founder departed from the swamps. When site was drained, many
large industries gravitated to Columbus, incl. radio, automobile accessories, diesel
engine plants & tanneries. In Courth. is Bartholomew Ciy. Hist Soc. Mus. (O).
Lafayette Ave. & 5th St., Sunken Gardens (O), on estate of Wm. G. Irwin. On 5th
St also is Tabernacle Christ Ch. (O), said to be only one in U.S. Chimes Tower.
SIDE TRIP: On US31A (S) 23m to Seymour, industrial town bet. White & Muscatatuck
Rs. (pic.camp sites). Swope Mem. Art Gallery (O). US31A ends here. J. with US50 (see).
On US50 (E) 3m to J. with US31, main tour.
63. J. with US50 (see). 84. SCOTTSBURG. J. with St56 (see Ohio R. Tour). Near
UNDERWOOD, 90., is Pigeon Roost Mem,, on grave of settlers killed by Shawnee
in 1812. 92.5. CLARK ST. FOR. (f.h.piacamp.), in Clark's Grant (see Ohio R.
Tour). Very large area with several artificial Ls. & for. nursery. Cone-shaped eroded
* 4 Knobs" are characteristic of reg. Tower on Grand View Knob (1,020'). 94. J. with
St.160, which runs (NW) through St For. 108.5. SELLERSBURG. Here hy. forks;
US31W runs (SW) into New Albany, & main tour cont straight (S). 116. JEFFER-
SONVELLE, bordering Ohio R., IND.-KY. LINE, at 117. (see Ohio R. Tour for
both cities).
490 OfflO RIVER TOUR INDIANA
OHIO RIVER TOUR INDIANA
IND.-OHIO LINE (21 from Cincinnati, O.) (W) to IND.-ILL. LINE (7 m from
Crossville, HL). 263. US50, S156, St.156, St62, St66 (see also Ohio & Ky.).
Via: Aurora, Rising Sun, Vevay, Madison, Charlestown, Jeffersonville, New Albany,
Corydon, Leavenworth, Dale, Boonville, Evansville, Mt. Vernon, New Harmony.
Sec. 1: OHIO LINE to NEW ALBANY. 116. US50, St56, St.156, St.62
Tour follows 1st channel of migration into the West. Shores are lined with old
towns & landings, & ferries at intervals unite Ind. with Ohio & Ky. rivertowns. In
some places, valley is spread with orchards & farmlands; at other pts., hy. follows
rocky bluffs along shore.
US50 (see) crosses st line a few miles (N) of R. into area long known for its dis-
tilleries. 9. AURORA. Shantyboaters, fishermen & houseboats make lively stir up
& down R. (ferry to Petersburg, O.). J. with St.56, on which tour cont. (S) along R.,
then cuts across rugged country. 11. LAUGHERY CR., where Col. Lochry MOD*
marks site of Ind. massacre in 1781. 17. RISING SUN (ferry. airport), founded in
1814. Ohio County Ctibt. (1845). 20. Tour turns on St.156, close to shore where long
stretches are broken only by river signals & clumps of willows & sycamores. 48*
VEVAY. Early Hs. & sites are marked by Hist. Soc. of Switzerland Cty. which was
sett, at end of 18th cent, by Swiss immigrants who named city after Vevey on L.
of Geneva. Became prosperous steamboat town, known for excellent wine. Birthpi
of Edw. Eggleston (1837-1902), whose "Hoosier School Master" is one of earliest
creative treatments of pioneer material. Swiss Inn (1823). Near County Cth. is
Carnegie Lib., housing dementi piano brought from London in 1717. Once a
week Mary Wright, in court dress & jewels, played for settlers in her father's
cabin. From Vevay, tour turns (W) on St.56 again, shadowed by cliffs. 68.5*
MADISON (sett. 1805), seat of tobacco-raising Jefferson Cty., has Southern flavor,
particularly in antebellum Hs. near river front Around Central & West Sts. are
large tobacco warehouses, & shipyards from 1830's stand along R. Madison then
was largest city in Ind. (2,000 pop.). PTS. OF INT.: (1) 1st St. bet. Elm & Vine
Sts., J. F. D. Lanier St Mem. (O.sm.fee.l840-44.Gr.Rev.), masterpiece of architect-
builder, Francis Costigan. Orig. furnishings. Lanier financed Indiana's part in
Civil War & later saved st from bankruptcy. (2) Poplar & 2nd Sts., NW. cor.,
Sullivan H. (1818.Class.Rev.). (3) 1st & Poplar Sts., Shrewsbury H. (1846.by
Costigan); spiral stairway. (4) 1st & Jefferson Sts., Paul H. (1809), oldest brick
bldg. (5) 2nd & Madison Sts., Madison Hotel (O.1849.by Costigan). (6) 2nd &
Poplar Sts. SW. cor., Schofield H. (1817.S.CoL). (7) Madison Lib., founded 1811.
70.5. CLIFTY FALLS ST. PK (sm.fee.camp.pic.hotels.guides.sport facils.). Clifty
Creek & Little Clifty Creek fall from ledge to ledge before dropping into boulder-
strewn canyon. Clifty Inn, with fine view over R. 74. HANOVER, just (S) of hy.;
seat of Ind.'s oldest private college, Hanover College (Presb.coed.), founded in
1827 % On campus, 400' above R., are new (1947) Georg. Col. bldgs. incl.
Classic HaU; Auditorium; Science Hall, housing laboratory science depts. in
which Hanover was a pioneer. Ihos. A. Hendricks Lib., comm. U.S. Vice Pres.,
class of 1841.
From Hanover, tour follows St.62 (S) & (W) while St.56 roughly parallels route
of US50 (see).
&CDE TRIP: On St.56 (W) to Salem. At 16m Scottsburg, J. with US31 (see). 24m where
The Knobs begin, rounded tree-covered hills running (S) to Ohio R. 45m Salem (sett 1814)
cheerful Quaker town on many hills. BirthpL of John Hay (18384905), statesman &
writer, Secy, of State, Brit. Ambassador. Morgan Raid Marker. 48^ Rd. leads (S) to
Beck's Mills (1809); Hist Mns.
St.62 swings (S), no longer in sight of R. In Indiana's southern hills, the pop. is
widely scattered, & life in some sees, is as primitive as when Lincoln family
settled there. 97. CHARLESTOWN, small town bridging present & past. At out-
skirts JF e E ' * Du Pont de Nemours & Co., smokeless powder factory, & Good-
year lire & Rubber Co.; while at N. edge of town is 1st Mettu Ch. in Ind, (1807)
&, m cemetery near-by, Grave of Jon. Jennings, 1st Ind. Gov. 110. JEFFERSON-
VILLE (bridge to Louisville, Ky.), one of oldest towns in St.; founded in 1786 by
Geo. Rogers Clark & platted in 1802 by Wm. H. Harrison, with advice of Thos.
Jefferson. Howard Shipyards (closed), on Front St., built many Mississippi packets
OfflO RIVER TOUR INDIANA 491
& steamers. In 1937, Jeffersonville was probably most seriously damaged of all
the flooded rivertowns. At 10th St. & Meigs Ave., U.S. Quartermaster Depot, one of
largest in country. On Clark Blvd., Oldest St. Prison in Ind. (1821.remod.). Across
Mun. Bridge is CLARKSVBLLE, founded by Clark in 1784 on part of 150,000-a,
grant made by Va. Rest of grant was divided among his men. The settlements
languished & Clark died, poor & discredited by his country, in 1818. L with US31
(see).
116. NEW ALBANY
E. Market & Cavell Sts., Chi Ind. St. L. RR. Sta.; Vincennes & Market Sts., B. & O. RR.
Sta. 234 Vincennes St., Bus Depot Toll Bridge to Louisville, Ky. Accoms.; Golf &
other recr. facils.
New Albany, center of veneer industry, is another hist, rivertown on edge of Clark's
Grant Residential dists. lie among hills that rise (NW) into the ranging Knobs,
Around marketplace & along Main St. are 19th cent Hs. built by shipyard & steam-
boat owners. Platted by settlers from N.Y. (1813), New Albany became one of most
important towns in Ind. From its shipyards came record-making "Robert E. Lee" &
the "Eclipse," whose long-distance record was never beaten. Flood of 1937 destroyed
property valued at $5,000,000. PTS. OF INT.: 600 E. Main St., Sloan EL (1853),
square mansion on hilltop, with pilot's cabin. E. Main St. near State St. Scribner EL
(O.1814.sm.fee). Market & Lafayette Sts., Site of Anderson Seminary, est in 1841
by John B. Anderson, RR. magnate who gave Andrew Carnegie & other working
boys the use of his lib. On Ekin Ave., Nat. Soldiers' Cemetery, ded. in 1862.
Sec. 2: NEW ALBANY to MD.-ILL. UNE. 147. St.62, St.66, St62
0. NEW ALBANY. J. with Still, river Rd. 7. J. with Stll (parallels Still inland).
St.62, the main tour, cuts across Harrison Cty. along ledge of rock. 19. CORYDON,
on steep hill in center of dairying reg.; several quarries in vie. Corydon was capital
of Ind. Terr. (1813-16) & st capital (1816-25); also scene of Civil War sldrmish with
Gen. Morgan. On steep slopes above crowded downtown sec. are residential streets
lined with white-painted & brick Hs. On lower level are wagon works, lamp-chimney
factory & other plants. Town was platted in 1808 & named by Gen. Harrison for
shepherd in popular "Pastoral Elegy/* PTS. OF INT.: Market St. bet. Beaver &
Walnut Sts., Old Corydon Capitol, St Mem. (181 l-12.O.sm.fee.rest 1929), built of
local blue limestone & handhewn timber. W. end of Cherry St, Posey Mansion (O.
1811), now D.A.R. Hall; Pioneer Mus. Col. Thos. L. Posey cared for many orphans
here. Market & Chestnut Sts., Kintner Hotel, now business bldg.; Morgan's hqs.
when he raided town in 1863. N. of Keller St., on Market St, Cedar Glade, where
Confed. Gen, left Lady Morgan, ancestor of noted race horses.
27. ^ WHITE CLOUD (trlr.camps.cabins). Near-by are Wyandotte Caves (hotels,
cabins.guided tours.fee), among largest in the world, extending for 25 miles on 5
levels. Monumental Mt, one of tallest underground formations. Pillar of the Con-
stitution, biggest known stalagmite. 28. J. with St462, which leads (S) 3 m to Har-
rison Cty. St. For. (camp.pic.shelterh.), more than 15,000 as. 34. LEAVENWORTH,
rebuilt town on relocated hy., looking down on old site wrecked by 1937 flood.
Founded in 1818 in bowl-shaped valley, it was busy port for many yrs. Here St.62
unites with St.66.
SIDE TRIP: On St.66 (N) 12m to Marengo, resort center in reg. of limestone caves &
mineral springs. Marengo Cave (fee.guided tours).
42. SULPHUR, St.66 turns (S) here, running close to R. to Evansville.
SIDE TRIP: On St.66 (S) 1.5m to White Sulphur Springs (f.h.cabins), popular resort
St.62 unites with St.37 as far as ST. CROIX, 49. Here St37 turns (S) through the
Lincoln country in Ind. (see below). Main tour cont (W) over St62, some distance
from R.
SIDE TRIP: On St.37 (S) through Peny Cty., heavily forested hill country, with a few
old-fashioned villages. 27m Tell City (ferry), sett 1857 by Swiss colony. Among street
names are Steuben, Schiller, Pestalozzi & Mozart.
On St.66 (S) 3m from Tell City to Cannelton. 5m Lafayette Springs, near which Lafayette
camped in 1825, when his steamer struck a rock & sank. Lincoln's family made 1st
stop in Ind. near same spot in 1816.
64. On St.62, ST. MEINRAD (1854), German Cath. town. Among craggy mils
above it is Benedictine Abbey, builf of local sandstone by Benedictines. Abbey Ch.
492 OHIO RIVER TOUR INDIANA
(Romanes.) has several chapels with fine stained-glass & Ital. altars. On forest Rd.
is Monte Cassino Chapel (1868). 68. J. with Stl62.
SIDE TRIP: On SU62 (N) 4m to Ferdinand, another German Cath. community; seat of
Convent of the Immaculate Conception. Ch. (Romanes.), with campanile & dome. On
St284 (E) 6m from Ferdinand to Ferdinand St. For. (f.h.boatpic.) & Fish Hatchery (O).
75. DALE. St.62 unites (S) with St.45. 79. GENTRYVTLLE, where Lincoln was
clerk in store of James Gentry. SU62 leads (E) 2 m to Lincoln City, on part of the
Lincoln farm. Lincoln St Pk. (sm.fee.pic.camp.recr.area); trls. to Nancy Hanks
Lincoln Mem., at grave of Lincoln's mother, & to Site of Lincoln Cabin. Near
Pigeon Creek Bapt Ch. (O) is grave of Lincoln's sister, Sarah. On St. 162 (E) 5 m from
Lincoln City is Santa Claus, where Christmas mail is postmarked by the ton- Santa
Claws Pk.
83. St.45 turns (S). Tour cont. on St.62.
SIDE TRIP: On St.45 (S) 12m to Rockport, sett, in 1807. Here Lincoln attended court &
found a wider world than Pigeon Creek afforded. Lincoln Pioneer Vfflage (sm.fee) has
reprods. of Pigeon Cr. Bapt Ch,, Schoolh., Lincoln Cabin, Brown's Inn & pioneer Hs.
L. Alda <pic.boats). Ferry to Maceo, Ky.
97. BOONVELLE, platted in 1818. Ratliflc Boon EL At NE. edge of town is Scales L.
St For. (f .boatpic.).
110. EVANSV1LLE
Fulton Ave. & Ohio St, Union Sta.; Division St. & Elsis Ave., Southern RR. Sta.;
Franklin St & 6th Ave., HI. Cent RR. Sta. Sycamore & 3rd Sts., Bus Terminal. Air-
port, (N) 5m on US41 (new port, 1949, planned). Good accoms.; many pks. & play-
grounds. Dade Pk. Race Track (Aug.-Sept). Symphony; theaters, stage & screen &
Little Theater. Info.: C. of C., 410 3rd & Main Bldg.
Evansville, seat of Evansville College, has fine harbor on narrow loop of Ohio R. It
is 5th largest city in st & only metropolitan center within radius of 100 miles. Main
St runs (NE) from Dress Plaza, city's front on R., & Evansville-Henderson Bridge
(free) links the states. Pop. is almost wholly native born. A small village grew up
here around Col. Hugh McGary's log cabin (1812) & ferry. In 1818, Gen. Rbt
Evans bought a section, & Evans' Town was platted. River traffic grew enormously,
& soon shipyards, foundries, sawmills, flour mills & other industries came. Suc-
cessive floods, cholera epidemics & financial panics brought death & disaster, but
city struggled through bad periods & rebuilt. Gov.-sponsored levee has lessened
danger from R., & city ranks high in pub. health. Besides being nat refrigeration
center, Evansville has some 200 industries, incl. metal-working, plastics, food &
textiles.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Dress Plaza & Sunset Pk^ along river front (2) Joseph & Ohio
Sts., Mead Johnson Riyer-Rail-Tnick Terminal. (3) Mesker Pk. Dr. & Bement Ave.,
Mesker Miin* Pk* (f.pic.playfields.amusements). Mun. Zoo, one of finest in U.S.;
African Veldt & Monkeys' Ship, replica of "Santa Maria." (4) Ingle & Carpenter Sts.,
Wfllard Carpenter H. (1848.Georg.), home of Amer. Legion post. (5) 216 W. 2nd
St, Mus. of Fine Arts & Hist (O). (6) Court St bet 1st & 2nd Sts., Soldiers &
Sailors Mem. Coliseum (O.Gr.Rev.). (7) Morton Ave. bet. Franklin & Division Sts.,
Servel, Inc. (O), org. in Evansville in 1926, pioneer in commercial refrigeration &
air-conditioning. Other plants are Seeger Refrigerator Co., Internat. Harvester, &
Schnake, Inc., (8) Penn. St. bet. S. Lemke & St. Joseph Ave., Mead Johnson & Co.
(0), makers of infant & dietary foods. (9) Another large food industry is Igleheart
Bros. (O.appL); flour mills. (10) Rotherwood & Lincoln Aves., Evansville College
(Metjbu), coed.; founded at Moores Hill, Ind., in 1854; degrees in liberal arts, nursing,
medical & industrial technology. "Urban pattern" of education is stressed, with
cooperation of local organizations. Adm. Hall (O); pioneer, Ind., geol. & biol. colls.
J. with US41 (see) & St.66.
132. MOUNT VERNON, on another bend of R., resembles Southern town in many
ways; seat of Posey Cty., agric. & oil-producing reg. Near Cth. is Soldiers 5 & Sailors*
Mon., by Rudolph Schwartz, sculptor of similar mon. in Indianapolis (see). J. with
St69, on which main tour cont. (N).
SIDE TRIP: St69 (S) to Hoyey L. Game Preserve, bet Wabash & Ohio Rs. Heron, duck
& other wild fowl congregate in spring, & flora incl. N. & S. species.
146.5. NEW HARMONY, changeless town on Wabash, famous for 2 communal
experiments: Rappite (1815-25) & Owen Community (1925-27). Hundreds of golden
CITIES OF THE CALUMET INDIANA 493
rain trees, planted more than cent ago, fill the air in June with drifting yellow petals.
In 1815, followers of George Rapp came from Pa. & built "Harmonie" on 30,000 as.
The Rappites, who came from Germany in 1805, believed in celibacy & communal
ownership. They cleared fors., drained swamps & planted fields & vineyards. In
1825, their leaders sold Harmonie to Rbt Owen (1771-1858), Welsh humanitarian,
author of "A New View of Society" (1816). Harmonie seemed ideal place for a
"New Moral World" (title of his journal), based on cooperative effort & advanced
educational facils. One of most influential of the early teachers was Wm. Maclure,
later 1st pres. of Phila. Academy of Natural Science & "father of American geology/'
The colony failed (1827), but New Harmony became cultural center, & many
liberal colonies derived from it
FTS. OF INT.: Main St. bet. Church & Granary Sts., Community HL (1816-22),
typical Rappite bldg., in Pa. Dutch style. Another is Tavern on Church St. bet
Main & Brewery Sts. West St. bet. Church & Granary Sts., Old Fauntleroy H. (O.
1815), home of Owen & other leaders. Here Minerva Club, 1st org. women's club
in Amer., was founded in 1859 by granddaughter of Rbt. Owen. Main & Church
Sts., Rapp-Machire H. (O.I 8 14), surrounded by golden rain trees; built for Father
Rapp & remod, by Maclure. Tavern & West Sts., WorMngmen's last (O); Lib. &
Mus. org. in 1838. Dr. Edw. Murphy built and endowed lib. & several similar insti-
tutions benefited under his will. Next door is Murphy Auditorium. J. with St.66,
alt route. 147. Bridge crosses Wabash R., IND.-ILL. LINE.
CITIES OF THE CALUMET INDIANA
The Calumet (Gary, Hammond, East Chicago & Whiting), a physical & industrial
unit massed against L. Mich., is most concentrated industrial development in the
world. This "smoke-blinded, taut, metallic jungle" (Gunther in "Inside U.S.A.") is
crowded with factories, forges, mills, refineries, steel towers & bridges, docks &
RR. tracks. It is considered part of Greater Chicago, & city planning is done in
cooperation with that city's Planning Commission. The name derives from Fr.
word for "reed," & pipes made by Potawatomi from reeds growing along R. were
later called "calumets."
GARY
RR. Stas.: Broadway & 3rd Ave., Union Depot; Chase St. & W. 5th Ave., Pa. R3L;
1045 Broadway, M.C. RR.; 901 Broadway, Wabash RR.; 4100 Adams St., Nickel
Plate Rd. 470 Broadway, Union Bus Depot. Chicago Airport is 1 hr. drive from
Gary; book passage at Travel Bur., 470 Broadway. Accoms. Sports facils. in Marquette
& other pks.; bath, beach. Info.: C. of C, in Gary Hotel, Broadway & 6th Ave.
Gary, 3rd among Ind. cities, home of main plant of U.S. Steel, has grown in less
than 50 yrs. from group of tar-papered shacks to metropolis with planned resi-
dential dists. & school system of nat. note. Business sec. around J. of Broadway &
5th Ave. has been built up largely since 1921. Along 9th Ave., S. of Wabash RR.
tracks, are neighborhood centers of many foreign-born groups & large Negro pop.
Larger industrial plants are separated from rest of city by Calumet R. In 1905,
Judge Elbert H. Gary chose duneland site for U.S. Steel plant, & soon sand mts.
were being levelled, river rechanneled, & site for plant raised 15 feet. A city of
bleak shacks on narrow, sandy streets housed thousands of workers. In 1921 even
the more substantial bldgs. were razed & a planned city created. Labor relations
also have developed from early paternalism to union contract; outstanding events
were A.F. of L. steel strike in 1919 & reorganization under C.I.O. in 1937. Work-
study-play school system was begun by the late Dr. Wm. Wirt.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) N. Broadway, Gary (U.S.) Steel Works (tours). In coke plants,
1,000 ovens & 12 blast furnaces are grouped beyond huge ore & limestone yards.
Spectacular features are ore-loading docks, open-hearth furnaces, & rolling &
wheel mills. On N. Buchanan St. are Sheet & Tin Mills (tours). (2) In Buffington, on
L. Mich., Universal Atlas Cement Co. (tours on appl.), U.S. Steel subsidiary. (3)
2700 E. 5th Ave., Union Drawn Steel Co., Republic Steel Corp. (4) 716 E. 5th Ave.,
Sun Motor Co., builders of airplane engines. (5) Grand Blvd., on L. Mich., Mar-
quette Pk. (pic.beaches.recr.facils.), beginning of dunes. Statue of Pere Marquette.
(6) 220 W. 5th Ave., Pub. Lib.; outstanding metallurgical coll.
494 FORT WAYNE, INDIANA
HAMMOND
RR. Stas.: 423 Sibley St., for C. & O. & other lines; 475 Plummer St., M.C. RR.; 5310
Oakley Ave., Nickel Plate RR.; 4601 Hohman Ave., Wabash Ry, 4919 Hohman Aye.,
Greyhound Bus Sta.; 5036 Hohman Ave., Union Bus Depot. Accoms. Recr. facils.,
Wolf & other Ls. (swim.). Cook Cty. For. Preserve, at W. limits. Info.: 423 Fayette
St, C. of C.
Hammond, next in size to Gary, is a strange-looking town, cut (E-W) by Calumet R.
& its downtown crossed by network of RR. tracks. It was the big town in 1900 & a
leading meat-packing center. In 1869, Geo. H. Hammond came from Mich, to est.
a slaughter house in the settlement, bringing with him the idea of a refrigerator car
invented in Detroit for shipment of fish. A few mos. later, an iced car packed with
dressed beef arrived in Boston, the beginning of present-day shipping methods. With
development of Calumet dist, other industries were est. here, incl. printing & book-
binding & manufacture of corn syrup, RR. equipment, surgical supplies & steel
products. PTS. OF INT.: (1) 601 Conkey Ave., Conkey Printing Plant (O.appL). (2)
1271 Indianapolis Blvd., Lever Bros. Plant (O), makers of soap flakes. (3) 1 13th Ave.
& Roby Sts., Arner. Maize Products Plant (O). Other big plants are Pullman Stand-
ard Car Mfg. Co. & Amer. Steel Foundries. (4) Hohman St. & Michigan Ave.
Pub. lib.; special chemistry, steel & petroleum colls.
EAST CHICAGO
RRs.: Mich. Ave. <& Guthri St., Pa. RR.; Watling & Regent Sts., N.Y.C. RR. & B.&O.
RR. 3448 Guthrie, Harbor Bus Depot. Accoms, Recr. facils. in several pks, Info.:
4618 Magoun Ave., C. of C.
East Chicago, incl. Indiana Harbor, is almost wholly given over to industry, the
sky being blood-red at night & the air in the daytime gray with smoke & strong with
smell of gas & oil. Steel works, rolling mills, refineries, RR. car shops, blast fur-
naces, packing plants & plate mills reach down from the L. & line Calumet R.
Pop. is about 75% native-born, incl. thousands of Negroes. City has good sch. <fe
lib. system, many churches & theaters, & some 350 clubs. E. Chicago was inc. in
1889, when Standard Oil Co. built world's largest oil refinery in adj. Whiting, ex-
tended later into E. Chicago. 1st steel mill was built in 1901, & work began almost
immediately on Indiana Harbor & Ship Canal, which receives both ocean & L.
vessels at 5 m stretch of wharves. PTS. OF INT.: (1) 3210 Watling St., Inland Steel
Co. (O.appl.), 1st in Calumet. (2) 3301 Indianapolis Blvd., Sinclair Refinery (O.
appL). (3) 4343 Kennedy Ave., Harbison-Walker Refractories (O), makers of silica
firebrick. (4) Cline Ave., Cudahy Packing Co. (tours). (5) Grand Blvd. bet 42nd &
44th Sts., Washington Pk.; only zoo in Calumet; Stadium.
WHITING, (Through RR. & bus conns. Accoms. & recr. facils. Concert halls),
although home of Standard Oil of Ind. refineries, is much smaller than other
Calumet cities & is unlike them in other respects. Originally a German settlement, it
has present pop. 90% foreign born or of foreign descent (1940). Civic life is colored
by these varied racial groups, their love of cleanliness & sociability &, notably, of
music. Lake Front Pk. has excellent recr. facils. Wolf L* (f .). Standard Ave. & Front
St, Standard Oil Co. (tours on appL).
FORT WAYNE INDIANA
FORT WAYNE
^ S ^ S ^ Ha ^?^ *$**%> WL: Grand St bet Harrison & Calhoun Sts.,
Wabash RR.; 912 Cass ; St, N Y.C. RR.; Superior & Calhoun Sts., L. Erie & Ft. Wayne
Nickel Plate & other lines. Jefferson St., bet. Harrison & Webster Sts., Bus Sta. Air-
port; 7.5m (SW), Baer Field. Hotels & tourist accoms. Numerous pks. & playgrounds,
L eble " C1ViC ^^ ** MUS ' Lin
Fort Wayne (inc. 1829), st's 2nd city, is on site of capital city of the Miami & of 1st
ft in Ind., an active factor in development of Northwest. City's importance derives
from strategic position at meeting of St. Joseph & St. Mary's Rs. to form the
Maumee. A 7^ portage at this pt. once linked Great Ls. & Miss. R. Also it is center
of a ncn agnc. & industrial area, a few hrs. from Indianapolis, Chicago, Detroit &
Toledo, gowntown dist., with Calhoun its main st, is just (S) of confluence of Rs.
Clinton St. (US27-US33) runs N-S through city, & Washington St (US30-US21) is
main fc-W artery. On the 3 waterways, bridged at many pts., are pub. pks. & resi-
FORT WAYNE, INDIANA 495
dential sees.; Foster Pk. Dr., along St. Mary's R., broadening into Foster Pk., is one
of most attractive roads. Pop. is predominantly native-bora. City has country's
largest gasoline pump & tank plants; other products are electrical equipment, wire
coils & truck bodies. Ft Wayne is known as one of most solidly unionized cities in
Ind.
Probably La SaUe portaged here in 1669. Ft Miami, est on St. Mary's R. in late
17th cent, was a principal trading post for 100 yrs. Ft. was surrendered to Brit, in
1760, taken by Pontiac but soon retaken by Brit. After Rev., Gen. Jos. Harmar est
another post at Miami Town, but the forces of Little Turtle were too strong for
him &, later, for Gen. St. Clair. Then, in 1794, Anthony Wayne built a stockade
across R. & made a treaty with Inds. Capt. Wm. Wells, Ind. agent, & the intelligent
Little Turtle kept Miami out of Tecumseh's confederacy. Ft was evacuated in
1819, & shortly afterward Judge Sam. Hanna & Jas. Barnett set up post & gristmill
Settlement was rapid. Tanneries, mills, distilleries & boatyards flourished. The Miami
were removed to Kansas in 1846, but their leader, Fr.-Ind. Jean Baptiste Richard-
ville, who had persuaded them to cede lands, remained in brick house given him by
Gov. Chief Francis La Fontaine (see), his son-in-law, led his tribesmen out of the
valley. Ft. Wayne was important Underground Sta.
PTS. OF INT. DOWNTOWN: (1) 1026 Berry St. Art Scfa. & Mns. (O), founded in
1888. J. Otis Adams & other prominent Indiana artists were assoc. with sch. (2)
1301 S. Harrison St., Lincoln Mus. (O.wks.), at Lincoln Nat. Life Co. Hqs.; lifework
of Dr. L. A. Warren, curator since 1928 under Lincoln Nat Life Foundation. Coll.
is said to be one of largest in world about any person, incl. more than 12,000
books & thousands of photographs, paintings, sculptures, letters. In plaza is Statue
of Lincoln (by Paul Manship), as a Hoosier boy. (3) 301 W. Wayne St, Pnfo Lib.
(also Cty.); special colls, of music, costume & local hist (4) Calhoun St., bet. Lewis &
Jefferson Sts., Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Cath.Goth.). (5) 601 W.
Berry St, Trinity Ch. (Episc.) with notable altar. (6) 116 E. Berry St, Lincoln Bank
BIdg. (mod.observ.tower), tallest in city. (7) Main & Clay Sts., Old Ft, Pk., site of
2nd Amer. ft (1815-57). Soldiers' Mon. (8) Clay & Berry Sts., Site of 1st Amer. Ft
(1794).
PTS. OF INT. on ST. MARY'S R.: (9) In Swinney Pk., Jefferson & Garden Sts.,
Allen Cty.-Ft Wayne Hist Mus. (O.exc.Mon.), in Swinney Homestead (1844). In
Pk., N. of St24, is Site of Portage* Johnny Appleseed Mem. (10) N. of W. Main St,
Aqueduct (ruins) of W. & E. Canal. (11) Beyond Aqueduct, Site of Ft Miami, aban-
doned for site on St. Joseph R. (see below). (12) 616 W. Superior St, McCulloch H.
(1838.CoLremod.), built for Hugh McCulloch, Sec. of Treas. in Lincoln's cabinet.
OTHER PTS. OF INT.: (13) E. bank of St Joseph R., at Delaware Ave., Site of
Post Miami, Fr. ft. surrendered to Brit, in 1760. (14) E. of Parnell Ave., in Archer
Cemetery, Grave of Johnny Appleseed (see). (15) Harmar St & Maumee Ave., in
Hayden Pk., Statue of Gen. Wayne (1918.by C.E.Mulligan). (16) Lewis & Gay Sts.,
Samuel Hanna H. (O), former home of city founder; now Children's Mus. & crippled
children's school. (17) Washington & Anthony Blvd., Concordia College (Jr.) &
Theological Seminary (Luth.). (18) Wayne Trace at New Haven Ave., Marker on
route of armies. (19) On US30 at E. edge of city, Mem. Pk. Among Industrial Plants
(O) are: (20) General Electric Co., plants on Broadway, Winter & Taylor Sts. Along
Bueter Ave.: (21) 3 m (SE) from downtown, Internal Harvester Co., city's 2nd
largest industry. (22) Magnavox Co., Home Plant (23) Zollner Machine Works,
makers of aluminum pistons. (24) 3700 E. Pontiac St, Farnsworth Television &
Radio Corp.
TRIPS OUT OF FORT WAYNE. I. US27 (N) 44^ to Angola. Via: Garrett, Auburn,
Waterloo, Pleasant L. US27 (Clinton St.) runs past Ft Wayne Speedway, a half-
mile beyond limits; race tracks. Exposition Pk. 19 m Garrett, small industrial center.
24^ Auburn, oldest town in DeKalb Cty. Warner Automotive Plant 29.5 m Waterloo,
tourist center at edge of L. reg. 44^ Angola, popular with fishermen, vacationists
& tourists (all kinds of accoms. in vie.).
Trip cont to Pokagon St Pk. (Potawatomi Inn), L. James & other large Ls. (see
US20) & to Ind.-Mich. Line, 52.5 m .
IL US27 (S) 38 m to Geneva. Via: Middletown, Decatur, Berne. Hy. parallels Wayne
Trace for more than 20 m , route of Gen. Wayne after Battle of Fallen Timbers (see)
4% INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA
& of Gen. Harrison when he came to defense of Ft Wayne in 1812. 11.5 m Middle-
town. Reminder of stagecoach era is Ruch Tavern (1851). 18 m Momnouth, sugar-
beet center. 21 m Decatur, once home of Gene Stratton Porter. 27 m J, with St. 124.
SIDE TRIP: On St.124 (W) 9m to J. with St201, which leads (S) short distance to J.
with Rd. (SE) into Wells Cty, St Far. (pic.facils.shelterh.); preserve for wildfowl, deer,
bear, raccoon. Wildlife Display.
33 m Berne, founded by Swiss Mennonites; publishing house & bookstore for Men-
nonite General Conference. Near Geneva, 38 m , is Limberlost St Mem. (sm.fee),
incl. cabin in which Gene Stratton Porter lived 1886-1913 (see also Rome City on
US20). The swamp, now drained, was setting for "Song of the Cardinal" & other
books that have been read by millions.
HI. US24 (W) 26 m to Huntington. Via: Roanoke.
US24 follows Washington Blvd. across St. Mary's R., then (SW) along Little Wabash.
R. in heart of Miami country, 11, 5 m Vermiiyea Tavern, most popular inn in canal
days. 26 m Huntington (see US24), seat of Huntington College. Mem. Pk.
iy. US33 50m (NW) to Benton. Via: Churubusco, Merriam, Wolflake, Kimmell,
Ligonier. US33 is pleasant route through Eel R. valley where Little Turtle was born,
then crosses reg. of st's largest Ls. to Amish & Mennonite communities around
Goshen (see). 15^ Chorubusco, named for battle in Mex. War. 20 J. with Stl02,
which runs (W & S) to Tri-Lakes St. Fish Hatchery (pic.camp.cottages.iswim). 23 m
Merriam. J. with St.9., the route (N) through Noble Cty. lake reg. 28 m Wolflake,
named when wolves howled around cabins in for. 33 m Kimmell, in marshy onion-
producing area. 39 m Ligonier, on Elkhart R. Many townspeople are descended from
early Jewish settlers. Grave of Nath. Prentice, who was with Washington at Valley
Forge. 50 m Benton, surrounded by large dairy, wheat & general farms of Amish &
Mennonites,
INDIANAPOLIS INDIANA
S. Illinois St. & McCrea PL, Union (RR.) Sta. N. Illinois & W. Market Sts., Terminal
Bus Sta. Off US40 (SW) &* Weir Cook Airport. Ample accoms. Sports events at
Motor Speedway, St. Fairgrounds, Victory Field & Butler Stadium. Golf & other recr.
facils. in numerous pks., incl. Broad Ripple (amusement). Theaters (stage & screen).
Symphony Orchestra, Summer opera. Internal. Automobile Race (Mem. Day). 777 N.
Meridian St, Nat. Hqs. of Amer. Legion. Info.: 320 N. Meridian St., C. of C.
Indianapolis is country's largest city not on navigable water & 2nd-largest St capital
city (Boston 1st). It is also St's RR., hy. & banking center & leading market for
corn, grain & livestock; hqs. of Bobbs-Merrill Co., publishers. Atmosphere & tempo,
however, are much the same as in other Hoosier towns, partly because it has ex-
panded gradually over level plain, its industrial plants are scattered & labor supply
comes from rural communities. Less than 3% of pop. is foreign born. Cultural in-
stitutions are Butler Univ., Ind. Cent. College, 4 Sens, of Ind. Univ., Arthur Jordan
Conserv. of Music, John Herron Art Sch., Symphony Orchestra & Civic Theater,
When capital site was chosen in 1821, a few cabins & Ind. villages made up the
Fal Cr. settlement Alex. Ralston, assistant to L'Enfant in planning Washington,
D. C., plotted orig. "mile square" around Governor's Circle (now Mon. Circle),
witL main aves. radiating from it Washington St. (E-W) is business thoroughfare.
Meridian St (S-N), with slum dist at lower end, broadens into residential ave.
Only a few tall structures stand out among downtown gov. & business bldgs. To (N)
are Butler Univ., Fall Cr. Pky, & numerous pks., playgrounds & residential areas.
Indiana Ave. leads (W) to crowded Negro sac. (more than 11% of pop.). In 1830
the Nat. Rd. crossed Indianapolis, & in 1853 the 1st union RR. sta. in U.S. was
built The rustic capital boomed with the Civil War & sank with the 1873 depression,
but industrialization had begun. 1st convention of Greenback party was held here
in 1874. It was leading automotive center until giant corporations developed on
natural waterways. During 20th cent, city became important meat-packing &
market center & seat of some 900 industrial plants. It was an "open shop" town
until late in 1930*s. Probably greatest "Konklave" of Ku Klux Klan was held in
Indianapolis on July 4, 1923. In 1928, "Indianapolis Times" received Pulitzer Prize
for exposure of corruption in St
PTS. OFINT. DOWNTOWN: (1) Center of Mon. Circle, Soldiers' Mon. (1867-1901.
O.sm.fee), 285' shaft surmounted by 38' "Victory" (observ.platform). Bronze statues
INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 497
(by Geo.T.Brewster) of Clark & Govs. Harrison, WMtcomb & Morton; granite
sculptures (by Rudolph Schwartz) symbolic of war & peace. (2) On Circle (NE),
Christ Episc. Gbu (1858.spire 1869.Eng.Goth.). (3) W. of Circle, Ind. State H. (1878.
O.wks.), in 9-a. pk.; limestone bldg. with Corinthian colonnades, topped by copper
dome. St. Mus. (O.wks.) has Tarleton Coll. of swords & knives. (4) On Ohio St. N. of
Circle, U.S. Cth. & P.O. (Class.). (5) 140 N. Senate St., State Lib. (1934.O.wks.);
coll. has many books in Braille. Ind. Hist. Bureau (6) World War Mem. Plaza, ex-
tending 5 blocks (N) from New York St, bet. Meridian & Pennsylvania Sts.: Univ.
Pk., set aside for univ. in 1827; Depew Mem. Fountain (by A. Sterling Calder).
Shrine Bldg. (1927.O.wks.); on S. stairway is bronze "Pro Patria," by Hering; on top
floor. Shrine of the Flag. Altar top is mosaic of colored enamels showing eagle,
shield & other emblems. Obelisk Sq. t paved court around black-granite obelisk.
Cenotaph, black-granite mem. to dead of World War I. (7) N. of Cenotaph Sq.,
Amer. Legion Nat. Hqs. (1925.neo-Class.). (8) Meridian & North Sts., Scottish Kite
Cathedral (1929-Tudor Goth.O.Sataft). In 212' tower is fine carillon of 63 bells.
(9) 40 E. St Clair St. Pub. Lib. (1917. Doric.by Paul Cret). (10) 1150 N. Meridian
St., Children's Mus. (O); exhibits in natural science, hist & art (11) 528 Lockerbie
St Jas. Whitcomb Riley H. (O.Vict), where some of most popular poems were
written; period furnishings. (12) Pennsylvania & 15th Sts., John Herron Art Mus.
(1906.mod.Ren.) & Art School. Paintings by Hassam & other Amer. artists; Cezanne,
Seurat, Van Gogh, Hobbema, Cuyp.
OTHER PTS. OF INT.: (13) Bet. Mich. & 10th Sts., E. of White R., Ind. Univ.
Medical Center, incl. Riley Hospital for Crippled Children, Univ. Medical & Dental
Schools. (14) 4001 Otteryein Ave., IndL Central College (United Brethren), coed.;
opened in 1905; incl. Liberal Arts & Teachers Colleges, Conservatory & Bible
Institute. (15) Garfield Dr. & Shelby St., Garfield Pk.; L. Sullivan, sunken gardens,
lagoon, open-air theater. (16) S. of 38th St. near Riverside Dr. Riverside Pk., city's
largest St Fish Hatchery. (17) 1230 N. Delaware St., Benj. Harrison H. (O.sm.fee.
1872.Regency); period furnishings. (18) Sunset Ave. & W. 46th St, 5 m N. from
downtown, Butler Univ. (coed.) has 246-a. campus in former Fair-field Pk.; founded
by Ovid Butler & Henry W. Beecher as Northwestern Christ. Univ. in 1855. Incl.
Univ. College, Colleges of Liberal Arts, Education, Business Admin. & Pharmacy,
School of Religion & Graduate Division. (19) W. 34th St., Crown HS11 Cemetery.
Graves of Pres. Benj. Harrison, J. W. Riley, Kin Hubbard, & Vice Presidents Chas.
Fairbanks & Thos. Marshall. (20) 2402 Cold Spring Rd., Carmelite Monastery
(lobby O.1832.Med.). (21) 2400 W. 16th St, Motor Speedway (1909.O.wks.); Mem.
Day races. (22) 38th St. off Fall Cr. Pky., Fairgrounds, scene of one of largest st
fairs. Coliseum. (23) 1500 Kentucky Ave., Stockyard (O.wks.), one of largest in
U.S.; opened in 1877. (24) Georgia & Blackford Sts., Kingen & Co. Meat Packing
Plant (25) S. Alabama St, Eli Lilly Co. Plant, large pharmaceutical manufacturer.
(26) 611 Park Ave., Real Silk Hosiery Mills, (27) Beach Grove Shops of Big Four-
N.Y.C. RR.
TRIPS OUT OF INDIANAPOLIS: I. US36 (W) 20 m to Danville (sett.1824), seat
of Canterbury College, only coed. Episc. college in U.S. Until May, 1946, it was
known as Cent Normal College (est 1878). Seminary Bldg. (1829), of early Dan-
ville Academy.
H. US36, St.67, St.9 (NE) 35 m to Anderson. Via: Ft Benj. Harrison & Fortville.
Follow Mass. Ave. to J. with US36-St67. 11.5 m L with Post Rd. (N) to Ft. Benj.
Harrison (est 1903), large Army post; modern air field. 20^ Fortville. 26 m Ind. St
Reformatory. Just (S) of Huntsville, 29 m , US36 turns (E), & trip cont (N) on St.67
to J. with St.9, which leads (N). 35 m Anderson (through RR. & bus conns, accoms.),
large industrial center; seat of Anderson College & Theological Seminary; platted
in 1823 & named for "Capt Anderson," Delaware chief of village that occupied
site. After several false starts, discovery of natural gas in 1880's brought a real boom
to the town. One of most publicized sit-down strikes occurred in Anderson's G. M.
plants in 1936. PTS. OF INT.: Arrow Ave. & 25th St, Guide Lamp Co. (O), G. M.
subsidiary. 25th St & Columbus Ave., Delco-Remy Division of G. M. (O). Orig.
factory was est. in 1895 by Remy brothers. Union Ave. & 5th St., Gospel Trumpet
Co., probably largest publisher of religious material in U.S. Union Ave. & 5th St.,
Anderson College & Theological Seminary (Ch. of God), coed, liberal arts college,
est. in 1917. From Anderson, on St.32 (E) 4 m , is Mounds St. Pk. (f.camp.pic.
498 US 20 ILLINOIS
recr.facils.refreshments), along White R.; some of country's most unusual prehist.
mounds, incl. one 1,200' around & 9' high. Wildlife Sanctuary.
HI. US40 (E) 2 1 331 to Greenfield* Via: Cumberland & Philadelphia. Tourist camps.
Trip to birthpL of Jas. Whitcomb Riley is through country such as he described in
his poetry. Riley Mem, Pk. (see US40 for description of trip).
IV. US40 (W) & St.43 (N) 44^ to Greencastle. Via: PlainfieH StilesviUe. Trip to
De Pauw Univ. passes numerous small trade centers. 14 m Plainfield, reg. hqs. &
yrly. meeting place (Aug.) of Soc. of Friends. Indiana Boys' School, est in 1867 as
reform sen. Mas. 18.5 m Belleville, popular tourist stop. 28 m Stilesville. 39 m J. with
St.43, on which trip cont (N). 44 m Greencastle, seat of De Pauw Univ., est. in 1837
by Meth. Episc. Ch.; degrees in liberal arts & music. Alumni incl. Chas. A. Beard,
historian; Albert J. Beveridge, U.S. Sen.; & Wm. Wirt, creator of work-play-study
school system in Gary (see).
V. St.29 (SE) 28 m to Sfaelbyvffie. Via: New Bethel & Pleasant View. Route follows
path of Mich. Rd. (Ohio R. to Gt. Ls.) through mostly unspoiled rural scenery. Old-
fashioned customs linger among scattered pop. 9 m New Bethel. Big event is Marion
Cty. Fair. Hy. crosses Brandywine Cr. to Shelbyville, 28 m , on Big Blue R.; home of
Thos. A. Hendricks, Gov. & U.S. Sen., & of Chas. Major (1856-1913), author of
"When Knighthood Was in Flower." Shelbyville is seat of st. ? s richest corn cty. RR,
Marker, (S) l m from town, comm. 2nd RR. W. of Alleghenies (1834.erroneously
marked "1st"), which traveled over iron straps nailed to wooden tracks.
VI. On SL135 (S) 34^ to Nashville (see St.46), artists' colony near Brown Cty. St.
Pk. US31 & other good Rds. run from Indianapolis into scenic Brown & Monroe
counties & Hoosier Nat. For. Purchase Unit (accoms. of all kinds in st. pks. &
villages.
VII. US31 (S) 22 m to Franklin. Via: Greenwood & Whiteland. Route crosses cen-
ter of tomato-growing belt. 10 m Greenwood, canning center. 22 m Franklin, canning
& trade center & college town. In late summer, workers flood into town to pick &
pack tomatoes, living in all kinds of shacks & shelters. In Cth.; Johnson Cty. Mas.
(O). Franklin College was founded by Indiana Bapt. Education Soc. & opened in
1837; became st's 1st coed, college in 1842. Main Bldg. (1843).
VIII. St.37 (SW) 30 m to Martinsville. St.37 follows White R. for part of route. 17^
Waverly (sett. 18 37). 28 m Grassyfork Fisheries (O), where millions of goldfish are
bred in 1,000 pools; also lilies & other aquatic plants. 30 m Martinsville, widely
known spa; large modern sanatoria. BirthpL of Paul V. McNutt, Gov. & Commis-
sioner of Philippines,
US 20 ILLINOIS
HJL-IND. LINE (Whiting, Ind.) (W) to ILL.-IOWA LINE (Dubuque, Iowa). 199.
US20
Via: Chicago, La Grange, Elgin, Marengo, Belvidere, Rockford, Freeport, Stockton,
Galena, E. Dubuque. Hotels in cities; cabins & camp sites.
US20 enters on Dunes Hy. from Calumet dist. in Ind. & follows stagecoach route
across low NE. sec. & then through Fox, Rock & Apple R. valleys. In unglaciated
NW., lead-mining center in 19th cent., are picturesque limestone cliffs & wooded
gorges. 0. IN1X LINE. (Chi. limits), tour turns (W) on 95th St. Pkwy. 4. J. with
Stony I. Ave. Here hy. forks. [City 20 cont. (N) to Grant Pk., then (W). See Chi.
Trip IV.] Beyond J., the C. & N.W. RR. yards offer dramatic spectacle of stream-
lined trams distributed over some 60 tracks by electrically operated system. 18.
US20 turns (N), united with US45 across Sanitary & Ship Canal & Des Plaines R.
(see 111. Waterway Tour). 26.5, LA GRANGE* 32. J, with City 20. Tour turns (NW).
54, ELGIN
W. Chi. & State Sts., CM., Milwaukee RR. Sta.; 156 Douglas Ave., Chi. & N.W. RR.
Sta.; 3 E. Chi. St., Chi., Aurora & Elgin RR. Sta. 9 N. Grove St., Union Motor Coach
Sta. Good accoms. Recr. facils. & amusements in large pks. Fox R. (f.boat). Annual
Agric. Fair (Aug.). Info.: Assoc. of Com., 178 E. Chi. St
Elgin, home of world's largest jeweled-watch factory, is in center of richest dairy
reg. in U.S. Fox R. crosses center of town, with attractive pks. along banks. Up-
river is Chain O' Lakes winter & summer resort area. In 1835 Jas. & Hezekiah Gif-
US 20 ILLINOIS 499
ford built cabins here & cut post Rd. to Belvidere (see below). When city was inc.
in 1854, it was already an important dairy center, & Gail Borden made it nationally
known. Besides watches, milk & milk products, Elgin is known for toasters, paper
cartons, auto parts, street sweepers, windmills & religious publications.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 107 National St., Elgin National Watch Co. (O); founded in
1854. Clock Tower. At 267 S. Grove St. is Elgin Watchmakers College (est. 1920).
Watch & Raymond Sts., Observatory (O.appL), where master clocks are checked to
thousandth of second. (2) Pk. & College Sts., Elgin Academy, jr. college. Main Hall
(1855.Gr.Rey.). (3) Pk. St. & Academy PL, Laura Davidson Sears Academy of Fine
Arts (O.Doric). Coll. incl. Peale, Whistler & other early Amer. paintings; Barbizon
& early Ital. (4) Pk. St., Lord's Pk., along Poplar Cr. Zoo. Audnbon Mus. (O.exc.
holidays May-Oct); good nat. hist., Ind. & pioneer colls. (5) 853 Dundee Ave., HL
Watch Case Co. (O.appL). (6) Grove & Lincoln Aves., Cook Publishing Co., one of
largest publishers of Sunday School material. (7) 16 N. State St., Borden Co. (O.
appl.). Other plants are McGraw Electric Co., makers of Toastmaster; Elgin Mfg.
Co. (O); Shedd-Bartush Foods, Inc.; Elgin Sweeper Co. & Haeger Potteries (O), in
Dundee (N).
In country (W), farmhouses & well-painted barns & silos stand among great cattle
pastures & fields of corn. 92. BELVIDERE, market town & mfg. center; stagecoach
stop in 1830's.
106. ROCKFORD
RR. Stas.: 815 S. Main St., 111. Cent. RR.; 515 S. Main St., Chi. & NW. RR.; 609 S.
Main St., Milwaukee Rd. & C.B. & Q. RR. 330 Elm St., Union Bus Depot. Ample
accoms. Recr. facils. in extensive pk. system. Art Gallery, Civic Symphony, college
events & concerts by many groups. Theaters (stage & screen, incl. Swedish films) &
Little Theater. Info.: C. of C., in Hotel Faust, W. Jefferson St.
Rockford, 3rd largest city in 111., seat of Rockford College, is highly industrial com-
munity & cultural & trade center for large area. Rock R. winds through center, past
pks., for. preserves & private estates. Large dam supplies water power to many
industrial plants producing machine tools, textiles, hardware, automobile & air-
plane parts & furniture. Rockford was founded in 1834 & sett, by New Englanders.
In early 1850's, J. H. Manny began to manufacture his reaper & mowing machine,
& Chi. & Galena Union RR. was completed. Swedish immigrants arrived in large
numbers & est. co-op, furniture factory. Present pop. is approx. 40% Scand.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) S. Main & Green Sts., Federal Bldg. (1933). (2) Overlooking Kent
Cr., Tinker Chalet (O.certain afts.& on appLsm.fee.1869); period furniture & curios.
(3) 737 N. Main St., Burpee Art Gallery (O), in mansion of Civil War period. Annual
Jury Show (Jan.-Feb.). (4) 813 N. Main St., Natural Hist Mus. (O.exc.Sun.). (5)
N. Main St., in Beattie Pk., Turtle Mound, effigy 150' long. (6) N. 2nd St., Sinnis-
sippi Pk., on Rock R., Sunken Gardens. (7) College Ave. & Seminary St., Rockford
College, ranking liberal arts college for women, one of oldest in U.S. It was char-
tered in 1847 & took present name in 1892. Jane Addams, founder of Hull H.,
received 1st degree conferred. Middle (1852) & Linden (1854) Halls & Chape!
(1866.now Talcott) are in midst of some 30 modern bldgs.
SIDE TRIP: On St.2 (SW) 42m over Black Hawk TrL along Rock. R. to Dixon. Markedly
beautiful valley was home of Sauk & Fox Inds. Black Hawk refused to leave 111. under
terms of treaty made in 1804 (some historians agree with his interpretation), but in 1831
he was induced to sign treaty permitting removal. The following spring, his followers began
to harry border settlements. He says in his autobiography, "My reason tells me that land
cannot be sold.'* His forces were gradually destroyed, & he himself was captured in Wis.
by the Winnebago, who turned him over to Gov. He died in Iowa in 1838. At 15m Byron,
sett, by New Englanders in 183Q's. Near StiUman Valley, (E) 5m on St.72, is HL Soldiers'
Mon. comm. 1st battle in Black Hawk War. At c.23^ Black Hawk Mon. (1911.by Lorado
Taft), gift of sculptor; on high bluff on E. bank in Lowden Hist. Pk. (f.pic.camp.refreshr
ments.). 26^ Oregon. In Pub. Lib. are sculptures & paintings of Eagle Nest Art Colony,
founded by Taft & other artists in 1898. White Pines For. St. Pk. (f.pic.camp.lodge.cabins),
gm (W) from Oregon. 36nx Grand Detour, old village on deep bow of R. John Deere
opened plow factory here in 1841. TrL crosses R. to Dixon (see US30), 42m.
US20 cont. (W) in valley of Pecatonica R. Stephenson & Jo Daviess counties were
untouched by glaciers, & here primeval rock has been eroded into irregular bluffs,
terraces & canyons. Many settlements along route were begun by returning pros-
pectors after rush to Galena (see below) lead mines in 1820*s. Tourist accoms. at
frequent intervals. 134. FREEPORT (through RR. & bus conns, accoms.), fair-
500 US 30 ILLINOIS
sized farm center, known nationally for Structo & Arcade toy-making factories,
also has large Kraft-Phoenix Cheese Corp. plant. Among early settlers were many
Pa. Germans attracted to lead mines. Notable gardens (O.appl.). N. State Ave. &
E. Douglas St., Site of 2nd Lincoln-Douglas Debate, 1858, during which Douglas
formulated "Freeport doctrine'* that a territory had right to exclude slavery.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St26 (N) 5m to Cedarvifle. (NW) 6m from here to BirihpL of Jane
Addams; grave in burial plot on grounds.
(B) On St.26 (S) 14m to Forreston, scene of annual Sauerkraut Festival (Septfree).
155. STOCKTON. 157. J. with Rd. that leads (N) 5* to Apple R. Canyon St Pk.
(f.pic.camp.). From bluffs along R. is view (W) of Charles Mound (1,241'), highest
pt in DL 169. Hy. crosses Apple R. J. with St.80 (see Miss. R. Tour).
184. GALENA (through RR. & bus conns.hotels & tourist accoms.recr.facils.). City
lies in valley against semicircle of bluffs cut by Galena R. It was 1st important lead-
mining center in Old N.W. Along sts. & stairways climbing the hills are Gr. Rev.
mansions built in 1840*s & 50's when Galena was big town of booming area extend-
ing into Wis. When Gov. took over the lands, & steamboats began to come up Miss.
R.., thousands of prospectors rushed to Middle Border. At its peak, Galena dist.
produced 85 per cent of lead mined in U.S., then world's leading producer. Taverns
were busy, circus & traveling players entertained, whiskey flowed, & wolf & cock
fights were popular. Lead industry began to decline when HI. Cent. RR. made Du-
buque its terminus. Also, the shallower diggings were exhausted. In Ap. 1860, U. S.
Grant came to clerk in his father's store, & a yr. later he departed quietly for Spring-
field to be made colonel in Union Army. In Aug., 1865, he returned in triumph.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Hill & Prospect St., Grace Episc. Cfa. (1847.Tudor). (2) Bouthil-
lier St., U. S. Grant H. (O.I 857), gift from city, was showplace of Galena. Com-
pletely furnished, incl. china used in White House. (3) 121 High St., First Grant H.,
contrasting in its simplicity with mansion across R. (4) Main & Diagonal Sts., Bow-
ling H. (1828), oldest bldg. (5) Bench & South Sts., Gen. Smith H. (1848.Gr.Rev.),
considered finest in city. (6) S. Bench St, Galena Mus. (0). (7) 512 Park Ave., Jos*
Hoge H. (1845.Gr.Rev.), Southern style.
In wild, rugged country (NW) of Galena are prehist mounds, sites of battles in Ind
wars, abandoned mines. US20 runs down into Miss, bottomlands. 199* E. DU-
BUQUE* Bridge (toll) at ELL.-IA* LINE.
US 30 ILLINOIS
BX.-INIX LINE (Dyer, Ind.) (W) to IDL-IOWA LINE (Clinton, Iowa). 152. US30
Via: Chicago Hts., Joliet, rlainfield, Aurora, Hinckley, (Dixon), Sterling, Morrison,
Fulton.
US30, the Lincoln Hy., runs along W. edge of Greater Chicago, turns (N) to Aurora
& then directly (W) to Miss. R. gorge. A short distance from Ind. Line, hy. forks.
US30 Alt. leads (N) to Grant Pk., then (W) through suburbs & across state to J.
with main tour at Sterling (see Alt Tour below).
6. CHICAGO ETTSL 17. FRANKFORT. 23. NEW LENOX* These suburban com-
munities developed on former marshlands left by prehist. sea.
30* JOLIET
Union & Scott Sts., Union (RR.) Depot 301 N. Ottawa St., Greyhound Bus Sta.; 32
E. Jefferson St., Union Bus Depot. Mun. Airport. Accoms. & recr. facils. Info.: Assoc.
of Com., 436 Clinton St.
Joliet, named for explorer, is notable for its fine homes, schs. & chs., modern bus.
dist & beautiful pk. system. It is one of leading industrial cities of Dl, a RR. & trade
center, crossed by Gt Ls.-Gulf Waterway (see). From time of settlement in 1833,
rich natural resources & potential water power have made it a key city. Among its
150 or more plants are 8 mills producing more than half nation's supply of wall
paper. Otherproducts are steel rods & tanks, wire, furnaces, chemicals & fire brick.
PTS. OF INT.: Wall Paper Mills (O.appL). Chicago St & Doris Ave., Amen Insti-
tute at Laundering (guides), technical & research institute. 303 Taylor St, College
of St Francis (Cath.), accredited women's college. Ottawa & Clinton Sts., Pub. Lib.,
of local limestone. On US30, Pilcher Pk. Arboretum. J. with US6 (see ill. Waterway
Tour) & US66 Alt
US 34 ILLINOIS 501
US30 swings (NW) through open country. 39. PLAINFIELD, where post was est
in 1790 on site of Ind. village. Halfway H. (1834.Gr.Rev.). J. with US66. 48. J. with
US34 (see).
52. AURORA
175 S. Broadway, C.B. & Q. RR. Depot; 51 S. Broadway, C.A & E. RR. Depot & Bus
Sta. Airport (privately operated). Hotels; motor court. Golf, f., boat. & other recr.
facils. at Exposition Pk. (amusements) & other pks. Info.: C. of C., 17 Island Ave.;
Chicago Motor Club, 48 Galena Blvd.
Fox R., dividing line bet. metropolitan area & prairies, runs through heart of
Aurora. On largest of many Is. is city center, incl. City Hall, Lib. & P.O. Several
bridges carry (E-W) aves. over R., & at N. end is Mem. Bridge (1931.by RP.Seidel).
After Black Hawk War, Jos. McCarty, from N.Y., chose site occupied by Pota-
watomi village, & town was platted in 1836. Two communities developed along R.,
& even after city was inc. in 1857, bitter battles were fought City center, on Stolp I.
in middle of R., was the happy solution. Name "Aurora" honors local Ind. chief,
Wabonsie ("morning light"). Burlington RR. shops gave Aurora its biggest impetus
to industrialization. Cultural institutions incl. Aurora College, Toenniges Conserva-
tory of Music, & Marmion Military Academy.
PTS. OF INT.: Oak Ave. & Cedar St., BHst EL (1837.O.Wed.Fri.Sun.aft). On ex-
hibit is 9'-high Blanford Clock, completed around 1913 by Wm. Blanford; shows
time of day, phases of moon & calendar day, month & yr. Oak Ave. & Cedar St.,
Hist Soc. B3dg. (O.1857); pioneer furniture. Gladstone Ave., Aurora College, founded
by Advent Christian Ch. in 1893 in Mendota; evening courses in labor management
& other fields. Along US30 from Parker Ave., Phillips Pk. Mus. & Zoo. Burlington
Shops (O.appL).
Beyond Aurora begin the grasslands that gave HI. name of Prairie State, "as green
& as wild & as wide as the sea," according to pioneer poet At harvest time, modern
machinery reaps the harvest from great acreages of corn & grain; many large dairy
farms. 75. J. with St. 23.
SIDE TRIP: On St.23 (N) 10m to De Kalb, center of barbed-wire industry. Inventor, Jos.
Glidden, & Jacob Haish, holder of patent for mfg. process, had long legal battle over
rights. At 1719 S. 1st St. is Glidden Hospital, & on Oak & N. 3rd Sts., Haish Mem. Lib.
On wooded campus along Kishewaukee R. are bldgs. of N. EL St. Teachers College (1895).
The turreted "Castle on the Hill" is Adm. Bldg.
92. J. with US51 (see). 112. J. with St.26.
SIDE TRIP: On St.26 (N) 6m to Dixon, on Rock IL at end of Black Hawk Trl. (see US20);
center of cement industry. In pk. on Site of Ft. Dixon is Lincoln Mon. (by Leonard Cre-
nelle); at base of bronze statue is plaque comm. John Dixon, "proprietor of the ferry &
tavern here during the Black Hawk War." J. with US30 Alt.
124. J. with St.88, which links US30 & US30 Alt across Rock R. STERLING, on
US30 Alt, & ROCK FALLS, on US30, are linked by dam built in 1857. Pk. on I.
(pic-swim.). 128. J. with St.2, Rock R. Rd. 139. MORRISON (tourist camps & cottages
in vie.). Unionville Mill (O.1858). 150. FULTON. J. with St.80 (see Miss. R. Tour).
Many greenhouses. 152. Bridge (toll) across Miss. R., ILL.-IOWA LINE.
US 34 ILLINOIS
CHICAGO (W) to ELL.-IOWA LINE (Burlington, la.). 231. US34
Via: La Grange, Oswego, Sandwich, Mendota, La Moille, Princeton, Sheffield, Kewanee,
Galva, Galesburg, Monmouth, Biggsvilie.
0. CHICAGO (see). TJS34 crosses metropolitan area & zigzags diagonally across
dairy country & prodigious fields of corn & grain. Along route are several college
towns but few industrial centers. 29. Hy. by-passes NAPERVELLE (see Chicago
Trip HI). 38. J. with US30, (S) 4** from AURORA (see US30). 53. PLANO. Grain
elevators along C.B. & Q. RR. tower above strikingly level fields. Town was sett,
in 1830*s by Quakers from Norway. 77. EARLVILLE. J. with Rd. which leads (SE)
6 m to Shabbona Statue Mom (pic.camp.) comm. friendly Ind. chief. 89. MEN-
DOTA. J. with US51 (see) & US52. 113. PRINCETON, in center of orchard & farm
country. In E. part of town is former Home of Owen Lovejoy (1811-64), abolitionist
leader & brother of Elijah Lovejoy (see E. St Louis Trip TV). At 1518 S. Main St,
Bryant H. (1850's), where John Bryant, brother of poet, lived; friend of Lincoln &
582 ILLINOIS WATERWAY TOUR
one of founders of Republican party. J. with US 6, with which US34 unites for a
few miles. 120. WYANET, on 111. & Miss. Canal. St Fish Hatehery. 128. SHEF-
FIELD. US34 turns (S) here.
143. KEWANEE, on W. Fork of Spoon R.; one of largest industrial towns on route.
Kewanee steam boilers & workmen's gloves are known throughout country, & Wai-
worth Mfg. Plant, pioneer industry, is one of country's largest makers of fittings &
valves. Wethersfield, older part of town & wholly residential, was sett, by Conn.
(Prot.) Assoc. in 1836. Forerunner of Kewanee Boiler Co. was founded in 1850's.
155. GALVA, Swedish settlement (1854) that grew out of Bishop Hill colony. 159.
J withRd.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (N) 2.5m to Bishop Hifl St Pk., site of Swedish communal religious
colony est by Eric Janson in 1846; acquired by st. in 1945. Hist, of colony follows classic
pattern of many attempts at the good life. Janson was a man of extraordinary fascination
& vitality. After denouncing corruption of Luth. Ch. of Sweden, he was forced to find
refuge from persecution, & he escaped from Sweden on skiis & disguised as a woman. With
his followers, he crossed the ocean & came by Gt. Ls. &. canal to Henry Cty., 111., where
commumty lived in dugouts the 1st winter. Nearly 100 died of Asiatic cholera & are buried
in Bishop Hill Cemetery* Janson lived a life of fleshly comfort & later, as dictator, became
reckless in his demands. Whatever the cause, he was shot in 1850. Settlement had become
prosperous but, after loss of their leader, it was disrupted by factionalism, religious differ-
ences & financial mismanagement. State is restoring Bishop Hill as example of pioneer life.
Old Colony Ch. (1848) has coll. of paintings of scenes at Bishop Hill, done by Olof Krans,
blacksmith. Other bldgs. are Schoolh., Storeh., Hospital, Cheese Factory & Bakery.
182. GALESBURG, birthpl. of Carl Sandburg & seat of Knox College. Town was
planned as religious <& educational center by its founder, Geo. Washington Gale,
Presb. minister, before he left Mohawk Valley parish (see New York) in 1835. A
group of Oneida families came to selected site in 1836-37, & city was laid out in
orderly fashion. Knox Manual Labor College was opened in 1838 in town meetingh.,
& scholarships were given with farm lots. The RRs. in 1854 were resented by the
settlers but brought new life to the college. Galesburg was important sta. on Under-
ground Railroad. City is now one of largest divisional hqs. of C.B. & Q. RR. & im-
portant livestock market. Knox College is coed, (since 1849) liberal arts college, with
roster of noted alumni, incl. Carl Sandburg, Don Marquis & Eugene Field (of
Lombard College, united with Knox in 1930). Old Main was scene of 5th Lincoln-
Douglas Debate. E. of Galesburg is Rice L., resort center. 198. MONMOUTH,
named (1831) for Rev. War battle in N.J., is seat of cty. named for Maj. Gen. Jos.
Warren, hero of Bunker HiH. On E. Broadway is shady 30-a. campus of Monmouth
College, founded by Presb. Ch. in 1853. Wallace Hall, named for 1st pres., & Science
Hall (1910). Lib. (1907) has art coll., gift of Carnegie Foundation.
Monmouth is center of level com belt where cattle are fattened for the stockyards.
US34 tends steadily (S), paralleling roughly C.B. & Q. RR. 212. BIGGSVILLE. 217.
J. with St. 164.
SIDE TRIP: On St.164 (N) 1.5m to Gladstone, On R. (NW) is Lock & Dam No. 18. At
3m is Henderson Cr. & near-by Corered Bridge (pic.), more than 100 yrs. old. 6 m Oquawka,
once a trading post, keeps busy getting button pearls from mussels. Good sand beaches
(camp.cabins) along Miss. R.
230.5. GULFPORT. US34 crosses Burlington (toll) Bridge, to Burlington, la. 231.
Miss. R. here is ILL.-IA. LINE.
ILLINOIS WATERWAY TOUR
CHICAGO (W) & (S) to MISS. R. (at Grafton, 111.). 339. ST.4A, US6, ST.29, US24,
stiop
Via: Summit, Lockport, Joliet, Morris, Ottawa, La Salle, Peru, Spring Valley, Henry,
Chillicothe, Peoria, Orchard Mines, (Pekin), Beardstown, Bluffs, Milton, Kampsville,
Hardin. Tour by boat would follow Chicago R., Sanitary Ship Canal (or 111. & Mich.
Canal by canoe), Des Plaines R. & 111. R. No charge for use of waterway or locks.
Knowledge of rules & regulations is of special importance, as channel draught varies
bet. 9' & 20', & locks & numerous bridges of varying clearance are along route. Info.
& strip maps avail, from U.S. Engineer's Office, Room 520, Merchandise Mart, Chicago.
Tour^ follows part of Great Ls. to Gulf Waterway along commercially important,
hist. int. & naturally beautiful route (well-developed st. pks.; good h. & f. grounds).
Steep bluffs, marshy bottomlands & lush valleys, rivertowns & industrial centers
DXINOIS WATERWAY TOUR 503
give extraordinary variety. Chicago Harbor Controlling Locks (N. of Loop) stand
where Chicago R. once sluggishly entered L. Mich. Michigan Ave. Link Bridge over
main channel extends from Site of Ft Dearborn (S) to Site of 1st Settlement (N).
Near Locks are Navy Pier (amusement) & N. Terminal Pier. Originally the S. Branch
crept (N) out of Mud L. & united with N. Branch to form main channel. Outlet was
often choked with sand, but during spring freshets Mud L. spread over area, drain-
ing into both S. Branch & across continental divide into Des Plaines R. Pere Mar-
quette noted "River of the Portage" in 1673, & Jolliet saw feasibility of canal to
link Niagara R. & Gulf of Mex. The Chicago Portage was key pt. in exploration,
trade & settlement. Since completion of Drainage Canal (1892-1900), R. flows back-
ward, & blue L. waters pour into its channel. Survey for canal was made in 1830, &
squatter settlement was inc. 3 yrs. later. In 1835 a shockingly high death rate called
attention to need for sewerage, & pipes were laid to carry waste into L. & R., which
became a stream of filth. In 1871 R. was diverted into S. Branch, with no better re-
sult. Finally in 1900 the Drainage Canal was completed, & R. flow was reversed so
that its load emptied into 111. R. across old portage. Subsidiary canals relieved
Chicago of sewage problem, but downriver cities were wrathful. Proposal to sluice
away impurities by inflow from L. Mich, was accepted after yrs. of nat. & internal
argument. Later the Drainage Canal was taken over by Fed. Gov., improved & re-
named Sanitary & Ship Canal. Amount of diversion, est. by U.S. Supreme Court,
is controlled by Army engineers.
Sec. 1: CHICAGO to PEORIA. 169. S14A, US6 & S129
From Loop, tour follows Cermak Rd. (W) to J. with St4A (Archer Ave.), which
roughly parallels waterway (US66 parallels route on N. side). Hy. crosses S. Branch,
a few blocks N. of Union Stockyards, to J. with Ashland Ave. Beyond J, is mouth
of abandoned HI. & Mich. Canal (1848-1933), & a half-mile farther on, waterway
enters Sanitary & Ship Canal. At c.13, SUMMIT, on crest of continental divide.
LYONS, across waterway, stands on edge of Chicago Portage. Just W. of Summit,
the Des Plaines R. swerves into valley & parallels canal to LOCKPORT, 34., where
it becomes a link in the waterway. Lockport Dam & Lock, where intake is measured
& controlled. St.4A & US66 enter JOLIET (see) at 39. J. with US30 (see). Brandon
Rd. Lock & Dam* The 2,000'-long retaining wall around Brandon Rd. Pool incl.
moss-covered lock of I. & M. Canal. J. with US6, on which tour cont. along best-
developed areas of HI. & Mich. Canal Pky. (piaboat docks.good auto rd.). 50. CHAN-
NAHON, where Du Page R. joins the Des Plaines. A few miles W., the Kankakee en-
ters from the S., & then, as the HI. R., the united waters flow W. through rocky gorge
cut by glaciers. Along Kankakee R. is McKinley Woods Cty. Pk. 62. MORRIS. Adj.
is small Gebhard Woods St Pk. (pic.camp.f.& game preserve). 81. MARSEILLES.
On S. riverbank is mini St Pk. (pic.camp.dining room.f .recr.facils.). Near-by Mar-
seilles Lock lifts traffic over the rapids. 85. J. with St.71, scenic route (W) through
St. Pks. (see below).
SIDE TRIP: On St.71 (NE) to Norwegian Setfleis* MODL, at Norway, small village on site
of 1st permanent Norweg. colony in Amer. Bronze plaque (1934) comm. Cleng Peerson,
who est. at least 30 settlements in Miss, valley.
87. OTTAWA, on wooded terraces overlooking R., was laid out as canal town in
1830 & sett, largely by New Englanders. Largest industry is Libby-Owens-Ford
Glass Plant, but making of agric. implements & colored marbles & other toys is
important. PTS. OF INT.: In Washington Pk., Site of 1st Lincoln-Douglas Debate.
Columbus & Lafayette Sts., Appellate Cth. (Gr.Rev.). Gaton Hill Rd., Gen. W. H.
L. Wallace H. (1860), St mem. to Union officer killed at Shiloh; coll. of furniture,
paintings & flags. On N. bank of R. (W) 4 m is Buffalo Rock St Pk. (f .pic.camp).
SIDE TRIP: On St.71 (S) & (W) 6m to Starved Rock St. Pk. (camp.pic.lodge.cabins.play
fields.f.), st.*s oldest & one of best-developed recr. areas. Boat trips daily. Trls. to Skeleton
Cave, Tonti Canyon, Eagle CM, Lost L., Herjiepin Canyon. Starved Rock (1250 is circu-
lar mass of sandstone with flat summit. Across R. was_ Kaskaskia, Ind. village where Mar-
quette & Jolliet, in 1673, were received by the charming, unreliable Illiai Marquette est
mission in 1675, & 1st Mass was celebrated on open prairie for more than 2,000 Inds. In
1679, La Salle & Tonti, his lieutenant with the iron hand, & the boastful Father Hennepin
came to same spot Ft. St. Louis du Rocher was erected on Starved Rock as part of La
Salle's dream of colonizing Miss, valley. Ft. Creve Coeur, near site of Peoria (see US24),
was left in charge of Tonti when La Salle went back to Frontenac for equipment. Deserted
by his rebellious followers, Tonti came to Starved Rock with a few faithful missionaries &
504 ILLINOIS WATERWAY TOUR
men to await La Salle. Then the Iroquois came down upon the village & a confused slaugh-
ter began. Only 1 Frenchman was killed, but the Iroquois ruthlessly pursued the Illinois,
wrecked the town & even dragged dead bodies from their graves. Tonti's party escaped &
made their way to Green Bay. When La Salle returned in high hope, he found^ only the
dead around the ruined village & fortress. At Creve Coeur also he found the ruins of his
ft. & an unfinished boat on which 1 of his men had written "Nous sommes tous sauvages."
In 1682 he returned to est. fort on Starved Rock, which Tonti maintained for some yrs.
after La Salle's death in 1687 (at hands of his own men). It was abandoned in 1702 &
burned by Inds. in 1721.
97. On US6, J. with Stl78 (S. l m on St.178 is IMca, a supply center). 103. LA
SALLE, canal town founded in 1827. Coal deposits & water power attracted several
industries, chief of which now are the zinc works. Locks, towpath & old warehouses
near hy. J. with US51 (see). 105. PERU, home of Big Ben Clocks, made by Western
Clock Factory (O.appl.). Peru was 1st terminus of Canal, but La Salle built steam-
boat basin & outstripped the other town. Spanning R. is Wooden Bridge (1869).
109. SPRING VALLEY. J. with St.29, over which tour cont around Gt. Bend &
close to riverbanks through primitive country where landings & scattered cottages
are outposts of half -hidden hamlets. Below Gt Bend is entrance to HI. & Miss. Canal
(good f.), opened in 1907.
Character of valley changes remarkably downstream. Instead of relatively strong
current, R. is much shallower & flows lazily through marshland (f .h.) & around in-
numerable islets. Valley is broad instead of gorgelike, extending sometimes over
several miles bet. steep walls of rock. 134. HENRY, at mouth of Senachwine L,, in
old riverbed paralleling main channel for 5 m . Henry Lock (unused). J. with St. 18,
which crosses R. to J. with Rd. that follows E. shore to Sparland F. & H. Grounds.
142. Village of SPARLANB (f .& h.info.). Near CHBLLICOTHE, 150., on an island,
are Woodford Cty. H. & F. Groonds. Peoria & Goose Pond Ls. are (S). Lights &
other navigation aids are numerous in this part of R. because of sandbars & stumps.
169. PEORIA (see US24). J. with US24 & US150.
Sec. 2: PEORIA to GRAFTON. 170. US24, St78, StlO, StlOO
0. PEORIA. Tour cont. along W. side of R. on US24. St29 crosses R. here (E) to
E. Peoria & Creve Coeur Si. Pk. (see US24).
SIDE TRIP: On St.29 (S) from E. Peoria. At 10m PeMn, favorite stopping place for Lin-
coln & others on 8th Circuit. 14m J. with St.122; (E) 5m on St.122 to Delavan (RR. conns.),
charming town on "High Prairie" in fertile cornbelt; Delavan Assoc, was org. to promote
temperance colony, & 50 R.I. & Mass, families arrived in May, 1837. Daniel Cheever H.,
depot on Underground Railroad. Straofs Store, oldest bldg. Prairie Rest, orig. cemetery.
Civil War Mon.
Innumerable small Ls. reach into marshlands E. of R., & Is. of varying size interrupt
its easy flow. 33. US24 unites with St78. 36. Tour turns S. with St78. 42. W. HA-
VANA, near mouth of Spoon R. (see). Rd. leads (NW) here to Dickson Mounds St.
Pk. (see). Across 111. R. is Havana, center of duckhunting area. Tour turns (W) on
US24 to J. with StlOO at 45., then (S) on StlOO, which winds back & forth across
R. Downriver is Grand L, splitting R. into narrow channels. 77. StlOO crosses
C.B. & Q. RR. Bridge (toll) to BEARDSTOWN, rural trade center lying low in the
valley & washed by many floods. 91. (W) J. with St. 104.
SIDE TRIP: On St.104 (W) 3m to Meredosia (corruption of Fr., "marais d'osier"), where
st's 1st RR. ended in 1837, a strap-iron Rd., 24m long, intended as part of Rd. to linfc
Cairo & Gelena.
92.(E)J.withStl04.
SIDE TRIP: On St.104 (E) 17m to Jacksonville (Wabash, C.B.&Q., & Alton RRs.; Grey-
hound & other busses), one of prettiest 111. cities & cultural center for 120 yrs. Founded as
seat of Morgan Cty. in 1825 & sett 1st by Southerners, it became within a few yrs. virtually
a New England community, which it resembles today. It was important Underground RR.
Sta. Stephen A. Douglas & Wm. J. Bryan both practiced law here. In Jacksonville are 111.
& MacMurray Colleges, St. Sch. for the Deaf, one of largest in U.S., St. Sch. for the Blind,
noted for music dept, & St. Hospital for the Insane. PTS. OF INT.: (1) College & Web-
ster Aves., Site of Home of W. J. Bryan, grad. of 111. College. (2) 4 Duncan PI., Gov. Jos.
H. Duncan H. (1835.Georg.O.appl.), hqs. of D.AJL (3) E. State St., MacMarray College
for Women, privately endowed, nonsectarian college of high standing, conferring degrees
of bachelor & master in arts & science & bachelor in music. Est. in 1846 by 111. Methu
Conference as an academy, MacMurray became college in 1909. Among many fine bldgs.
US 24 ILLINOIS 505
on attractive campus are Henry A. Pfeiffer Mem. Lib. (1941), MacMurray Hall (1928) &
Ann Rotledge Hail (1937). (4) 1101 W. College Ave., DliBois College, 1st 111. school to
graduate a college class (1835). John M. Ellis, Presb. minister, planned the college, & 1st
teachers were of "Yale Band" of theological students who helped est many early colleges.
Edw. Beecher, brother of Harriet & Henry Ward Beecher, was 1st Pres. School was closely
identified^with cause of abolition. In 1903, the Jacksonville Female Academy (1835) was
formally inc. with it. Today, Illinois is ranking liberal arts college, nonsectarian but assoc,
with Cong. & Presb. churches. Notable among its red-brick bldgs. are: Beecher Hall (1829),
oldest college bldg. in EL; Stnrtevant Hall (1857); Tanner Mem. Lib. (1929), a model of
functional architecture.
The broad lower valley has been compared to tranquil landscapes of early ItaL
paintings. R. winds around small Is. <& past Naples, Florence, Montezuma & Buck-
horn Landings. 106. J. with US36-US54, with which St.100 unites (W)
SIDE TRIP: On US36-US54 (E) 6m to Winchester, platted in 1830. Stephen A. Douglas
Mon.
SUOO crosses R. & turns (S) again at DETROIT, 112. 138. KAMPSVILLE,
center for hunters, fishermen & vacationers. Bartholomew Beach is one of best
along R. Country around is increasingly primitive. 148. HARDIN, shipping pt. for
apples. Here St.100 crosses (E) R., which parallels Miss, for several miles. 164,
PERE MARQUETTE ST. PK. (f .h.pic.camp.refreshments.lodge), one of most scenic
in 111., looking down over both Rs. (see E. St. Louis Trip IV)- Stone cross marks site
where Pere Marquette & Jolliet made camp. 170. GRAFTON, at pt. where rela-
tively clear stream of the 111. enters turbid R. that Lincoln called "Father of the
Waters."
US 24 ILLINOIS
ILL.-IND. LINE (4 m from Kentland, Ind.) (W) to ILL.-MO. LINE (6 m from Taylor,
Mo.). 250. US24
Via: Sheldon, Watseka, Oilman, Chatsworth, Chenoa, El Paso, Peoria, Lewistown,
Astoria, Rushville, Mount Sterling, Quincy. Accoms.: Throughout route.
US24 is straight route across prairie to Peoria, where tour turns (S) along HL R.
then crosses Spoon R. valley, made famous by Edgar Lee Masters.
Sec. 1: IND. LINE to PEORIA. 116.
On E. half of tour are many fine farms & somewhat austere villages of Amish &
Mennonite communities whose ancestors sett, here a hundred yrs. ago. Communal
principle is still strong, & the various groups usually form self-dependent rural
communities. 3. SHELDON, shipping pt. for grain. 12. WATSEKA, on bend of
Iroquois R. Many large Hs. & bus. bldgs. remain from golden age after Civil
War. Gurdon Hubbard, Amer. Fur Co. agent, 1st white settler in Iroquois Cty.,
married Watch-e-kee ("pretty woman"), daughter of Potawatomi chief, but after 2
yrs. he abandoned both fur trade & his opportunistic marriage. When village became
cry. seat in 1865, it was named for the deserted wife. 20. CRESCENT CITY* J. with
St.49.
SIDE TRIP: On St.49 (S) 16m to Cissna Piu, center of large New Amish community. The
men & women dress simply in dark clothes, take no part in gov. or military action. US24
passes several villages with relatively large Amish pop.
50. FORREST. 55.5. FAIRBWY. 75. GREDLEY. 96.5. EUREKA, seat of Eureka
College & Mennonite Home for the Aged. Leading industry is Libby, McNeill &
Libby (O.appl.), canning plant Eureka College, founded in 1830*s by Ky. pioneers,
has been recognized by Disciples of Christ Ch. since 1852. It was 1st college in I1L
to admit women on equal basis with men. Adm. Bldg. (1858.remod.). J. with St. 117.
SIDE TRIP: On St.117 & St.116 (NW) 10m to Metamora. In Metamora Ctfa. St Menu
(1845.Gr.Rev.wings 1884), Judge David Davis, "best stump speaker in HI.," held court in
Lincoln's time: Courtroom (rest), on 2nd fL; Woodford Cty. Hist. Soc. Mns^ on 1st fl.
Judge Davis, later Supreme Ct. Justice, was largely responsible for Lincoln's nomination
in 1860.
114. EAST PEORIA, home of Caterpillar Tractor Co. (O.appl.). On St29 (S) 2 is
Ft Creve Coeur St Hist Pk. (pic.) along the bluffs; game preserve. Mon. at probable
Site of La Salle's Ft (1680), wrecked by his own men while Tonti, who had been
left in charge, was at Starved Rock (see 111. Waterway Tour).
506 US 24 ILLINOIS
116. PEOMA
S. Adams St., near Franklin St. Bridge., Union Depot. Hamilton Blvd. & Jefferson
Ave., Bus Stas. On St.9 (SW) 5m, Mun. Airport. Excursions on R. & boats for rent
All kinds of accoms. Recr. & pic. facils. in Bradley, Glen Oak (Zoo) & other pks.
Players Theater. Bradley Inst. & Pub. Lib. art exhibits & other events. Civic orchestra.
Info.: Assoc. of Com,, Alliance Life Insurance Bldg., Main St. & Jefferson Ave.
Peoria, on site of 1st white settlement in 111., is now st's 2nd city, cultural & trade
center for wide area rich in coal, grain & livestock; one of greatest whiskey-producing
cities in world. US24 enters over Cedar St. Bridge (1933, more than a mile long
without lift or draw span) or by Franklin Bridge (E), which leads into downtown
Peoria. On low R. plain are most of the many industries served by Mun. River &
Rail Terminal. Business & residential sees, rise on higher & older riverbed. Grand
View Dr. along R. passes great estates, Grand View & other pks. (long-span bridge
under const.). Leading manufactures are alcoholic, dairy & food products, sheet
metal & castings & farm implements. In 1673 Jolliet & Pere Marquette crossed L.
Peoria. Then, in 1680, La Salle est. Ft. Creve Coeur (see) on E. bank, & after his
death, Tonti (see) returned to the wrecked ft. & est. a 2nd Ft. St. Louis (see 111.
Waterway Tour), to which came the Fr. & Inds. from abandoned post at Starved
Rock. The Fr. village Au Pe ("among the Peoria"), or Peoria, begun in 1730 on W.
bank, was abandoned in 1796. Meanwhile New Peoria had been est. in 1779 & flour-
ished under Brit, protection. When Clark took Kaskaskia & Vincennes (see), Au Pe
was left undisturbed, but, in War of 1812, the Amers. became suspicious of the Fr.
villagers. Capt T. E. Craig landed armed boats & allowed his men to pillage &
burn the town. Fr. prisoners, followed by their families, were taken to site of Alton
(see E. St. Louis) & left without food or proper clothing. Some claims against Gov.
were sett later, & Gov. Edwards formally condemned the pillaging. In 1813 a new
stockade was built & named for Clark, & a new city began with influx of New Eng-
land settlers. When. cty. was created in 1825, the old name, Peoria, was restored. N.
Reg. Research Lab. of U.S. Dept. of Agric. was built here in 1940.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) In Cth. Sq., bet. Jefferson Ave. & Adams St. & Hamilton Blvd. &
Main St., is the domed County Cth. (1876.Ital.Ren.). Site of Lincoln-Douglas Debate
is marked by Civil War Mon. (1899.by Fritz Treibel). (2) Jefferson Ave. & Hamilton
Blvd., Rbt Ingersoll H. (3) 209 Jackson PL, Peoria Players Theater, fully equipped.
(4) 111 Monroe St., Pub, Lib. (1897), est in 1880, 1st lib. under 1872 LI. law; Art
Exhibit. (5) 1101 Hamilton Blvd., First Presb. Ch., org. in 1834; hist. coll. (O). (6)
Liberty & Water Sts., Site of Ft Clark (1813). (7) Hiram Walker & Sons Distillery
(O.appl.), subsidiary of Walkerville, Ont, plant (see Detroit, Mich.). Other dis-
tilleries & breweries (O.appl.). (8) S. Institute St., Bradley Polytechnic Institute, incl.
College of Arts & Sciences, College of Music, Sch. of Fine & Applied Arts, Industrial
&, Trade Sch. & Sch. of Horology, with courses in watch-making. Horology Hall &
Bradley Hall are oldest bldgs. on campus (1897). (9) Off Prospect Rd., Glen Oak Pk*
(pic.playfields.zoo) notable Palm H. & gardens. Near Perry Ave. entrance, Statue of
Rbt Ingersoll (by Fritz Treibel), who practiced law in 111. & nominated "the plumed
knight," J. G. Elaine, for Presidency in 1878. L with US150, St29 (see 111. Water-
way Tour).
SIDE TRIP: On US150 (NW) 14m to JubOee College St. Pk. (pic.), former campus of
pioneer sch. Weathered golden-yellow bldgs. stand under tall elms along Kickapoo Cr
Here Philander Chase, 1st Episc. bishop in Ohio & founder of Kenyon Collese fseeV
founded Jubilee College in 1839. Bishop Chase's Grave.
Sec. 2: PEORIA to MO. LINE. 134.
US24 follows HI. R. out of Peoria, past small mining & R. towns. 9. ORCHARD
MINES. Across R., on St.9, is PEK1N, trade & transp. center. For many miles alone
both sides of R. are good f. & h. grounds. At c.37.5. J. with Rd.
SIDE TEUP.- On Rd. (SW) 3.5m to Dkksao Mounds St Pk. (O.9-5.pic.). The mounds,
acquired by st in 1945, were explored by ong. owners of site, Dr. Don F. Dickson & his
father, with help of archaeologists. More than 230 skeletons of prehist men, women &
children were discovered & left exactly as they were found, with arrowheads, pottery &
ornaments around them. Exhibit, under permanent shelter, reveals much of life of agric
villages that were scattered over 111. country 1,000 yrs. ago. The great number of burialL"
incl. several family groups, indicates that epidemic struck the village on river plain below!
38. LEWISTOWN, early home of Edgar Lee Masters, poet of Spoon R. valley Mai*
O. M. Ross founded town, in 1821, on land grant to soldiers of War of 18ll Ross
LINCOLN NATIONAL MEMORIAL HIGHWAY 507
Mansion, at 409 E. Milton Ave., is "McNeely Mansion" of "Spoon River An-
thology." At 1127 N. Main St., Maj. Newton Walker H. (1833), built for friend of
Lincoln. Oak Hill Cemetery. 44. Hy. crosses Spoon R. 72. RUSHVHLLE, founded
in 1825, center of coal-mining, orchard & grain-growing country. Scripps Pk, was
once farm of E. W. Scripps, founder of newspaper chain. 81. RIPLEY, on Le
Moine Cr. From here, US24 winds (W) among ranging hills, past rural centers sett
largely by Germans. 132. QLJINCY (through RR. & bus conns, accoms.), spreading
out along Miss. R. & extending up to the steep bluffs; important industrial town &
seat of Adams Cty. In 1850's it was st's 2nd city & still keeps atmosphere of a^big
town. Quincy Bay, once harbor of a leading port from which were shipped millions
of dollars worth of goods & thousands of hogs, is now recr. center (f.boatswim.).
Drills & pumps, farm machinery & supplies for chicken farms are important pro-
ducts. PTS. OF INT.: In Washington Pk., Site of 6th Lincoln-Douglas Debate,
marked by bronze bas relief (by Lorado Taft). 425 S. 12th St., John Wood H. (1835),
home of 1st settler; now Hist Soc, Mm. (O). Main & 7th Sts., St. Boniface Ch.
(1847). U.S. Lock & Dam No. 2.
US24 crosses QUINCY MEM. BRIDGE (toll) over Miss. R., ILL.-MCX LINE, at
134.
LINCOLN NAT. MEM. HY.
ILL.-IND. LINE (Vincennes, Ind.) (W) to BEARDSTOWN, ILL. 246. St.181, Stl,
Cty. Rd., Stl6 & S1121
Via: Russelville, Palestine, Marshall, Charleston, Campbell, Decatur, Springfield,
Petersburg.
Lincoln Nat Mem. Hy. follows (marked) route of Thos. Lincoln from Hodgenville,
Ky., into Ind., & then, in Mar. 1830, from Vincennes across 111. prairie. Along trl.
in 111. are mems. & statues, st. pks. & nat. shrines, incl. restored village of New
Salem & Lincoln's Tomb.
Sec. 1: IND. LINE to DECATUR. 154.
0. LINCOLN MEM. BRIDGE (1931) over Wabash R. In 30-a. pk. (camp.pic.), near
III. approach, stands Lincoln Trl. Mon. (by Nellie Walker). Trl. parallels R. on
St.181 (W).
SIDE TRIP: US50-US150 enters HI. at bridge. 9^ Lawrenceviile, oil-refining center in
richest oil & natural gas reg. 31.5m Olney. Near here is Larchmond (grounds O.), former
estate of Dr. Rbt. Ridgway, noted ornithologist.
12. RUSSELVILLE. Ferry in operation more than 120 yrs. 26. PALESTINE,
thriving settlement in Lincoln's time with land office, taverns, mills & stores. From
here the Lincolns headed (W) on what is now St. 3 3 to J. with Stl at 30., then across
open prairie. 57. MARSHALL. J. with US40, which crosses (W) Stone Bridge built
for Cumberland Trl. in 1830's. Mem. Hy. follows Marked Rd. (NW) through
sparsely settled reg. 85. CHARLESTON, seat of Eastern 111. St. Teachers College.
In cty. fairgrounds are Grave of Dennis Hanks, Lincoln's spirited cousin & Site of
4th Lincoln-Douglas Debate, heard by 12,000. In Morton Pk. is Sally Lincoln
Chapter H. of D.A.R., named for Lincoln's stepmother, in log cabin (1832) where the
young circuit rider visited. Coles County Cth. has Lincoln papers. Eastern St.
Teachers College, housed in attractive stone bldgs. (Norman); founded in 1895. J.
with SU30.
SIDE TRIP: On St.130 (S) 7m to Fox Ridge St. Pk. (f.boatcamp.pic.), 700 as., deeply
wooded, near Embarrass R.
The Lincolns* covered wagon cont. (W) from Charleston, but Mem. Hy. follows
marked route (S) to 3 later homes of Thos. Lincoln. It passes Sarah Lincoln H., in
CAMPBELL, 92.5., where Lincoln's mother lived after her husband's death, 1851-
69. 94. LOG CABIN ST. PK. (pic.), 86 as. of Thos. Lincoln's 4th & last homestead
in 111. Thos. Lincoln Log Cabin (reconst!935); period furnishings. 97.5. (NW.) from
st. pk. is Thos. Lincoln Cemetery (formerly Shiloh), where Sarah & Thos. Lincoln
are buried. 101. Site of Lincoln's 3rd H. in 111. (1 834-37). 104. Site of 2nd Lincoln H.,
to which family moved in 1831 after Abraham had set out to make his own way.
107. J. with SU21, over which Mem. Hy. cont. (N). 110. MATTOON (see). Fish
Hatchery. J. with US45 (see).
508 LINCOLN NATIONAL MEMORIAL HIGHWAY
Mem. Hy. follows St. 121 (NW) across KaskasMa R. valley. 146. SPITLER WOODS
ST. PK. (pic.camp.facils.). 154. BECATUR (see US51), where the Lincolns came to
end of wearisome journey. Down Sangamon R., John Hanks had found site on high
bluff, & there they put up 3-sided cabin. The winter was discouraging. A blizzard
stormed around the shelter in Dec. & cut off all communication. After the spring
floods, Thos. Lincoln started back across the prairie to rind another home (see
above).
Sec. 2: DECATUH to BEARDSTOWN. 92. US36, St97 & Marked RdU
0. DECATUR. 9. on US36 1st Lincoln Home Site Marker. Along Sangamon R. (S)
is Lincoln TrL Pky., past site of cabin (1830-31). 33.5. CAMP BUTLER NAT,
CEMETERY, on site of Civil War camp & prison.
40. SPRINGFIELD ^
Through RR. & bus conns. Capital Airport (NW) 3.8m. Hotels. Tourist camps. Thea-
ters (stage & screen). Recr. facils. in several pks., L. Springfield & Sangamon R. (f.boat
swim.). Annual Beaux Arts Ball (Jan.); Ill- St. Fair (late Aug.). Info.: C. of C., 5th &
Capitol Sts.
Mem. Hy. crosses S. side of the st. capital, which spreads out over rolling prairie.
Ninth St. & Wabash RR. tracks divide W. sec., incl. gov. bldgs., bus. & residential
areas, from E. half, where are industrial plants, RR. yards & homes of some 4,000
Negroes. Springfield is, above all else, the city of Abr. Lincoln. Here he lived for
many yrs. & here stand his tomb, his home & other cherished mems. Carl Sand-
burg & the Springfield poet, Vachel Lindsay, have paid tribute to the man & the
city. Elisha Kelly came here from N.C. in 1818, & by 1821 the little community be-
came cty. seat. In 1832 the "Talisman" created a sensation as it came up the Sanga-
mon from St. Louis, but the river fell, & the steamer had to back downriver, taking
with it Springfield's hopes. With opening of Erie Canal, the rich prairies attracted
thousands of settlers, & agitation began for more centrally located capital. Lincoln
led Sangamon Cty.'s "Long Nine" (legislators whose total height was 54') in suc-
cessful effort to remove capital from Vandalia (see) to Springfield. Prosperity came
with the RRs., & coal mining began late in 1860's. Since then city has grown quietly
with the state.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) S. 2nd St, Capitol Group (O): The Capitol (1 868-87. Ren.by J.C.
Cochrane), tallest bldg. in S. 111. Above cross-shaped limestone structure rises a
ribbed dome with Corinth, columns around base. Inter, frieze by E. Nicolai. Statue
of Lincoln (by Andrew O'Connor). Statue of Stephen A. Douglas (by Gilbert Ris-
wold). Centennial Bldg. (1918-23.neo-Class.), incl. St Lib.; Mus,, with anthrop.,
biol. & geol. colls.; Art Gallery, & St Hist Lib., in which is Lincoln Room. Ar-
chives Bldg. (1937.1st floor O.), Supreme Ct Bldg., & St Armory & Office Bldg.
complete harmonious group, part of Springfield Plan. (2) 315 E. Adams St., Site of
Globe Tavern, where Abr. & Mary Lincoln lived (1842-44). (3) Public Sq., Sanga-
mon County Cth. (O.1837.Gr.Rev.), Capitol for 40 yrs. Orig. bldg. of age-darkened
stone was lifted in 1899 & new 1st story erected beneath. The "House Divided"
speech was made in Circuit Ct Room, & here the President's body lay in state,
May 3-4, 1865. (4) 101-3 S. 5th St, Site of Speed's Store & last Lincoln-Herndon
Law Office (1844); (5) 109 N. 5th St., Site of Lincoln-Stuart Law Office (1837-41);
(6) 203 S. 6th St., 3rd floor, Logan Lincoln Law Office (1841-44); (7) 7th St &
Capitol Ave., First Presb. Ch^ attended by Lincoln family (1850-61); (8) 8th &
Jackson Sts., Lincoln Home (O.1839.Gr.Rev.), only house Lincoln ever owned; well
preserved; inter, unchanged, with period furnishings. (9) 801 N. 5th St, "Edwards
Place" (1833), housing Springfield Art Assoc. Gallery & mus. in wing (1937-38).
The beautiful H., rest. & furnished with orig. & period pieces, was home of Judge
Benj. S. Edwards, son of Gov. Ninian Edwards. (10) Enos Ave. & 12th St. Con-
cordia TfaeoL Seminary (Luth.), offering 6-yr. course. Est. in Ft. Wayne, Ind. (see),
it was moved to Springfield in 1874.
(12) In Oakridge Cemetery, Monument Ave., Lincoln Tomb (1874.by Larkin G.
Mead). Erected in 1874, with contributions from all over country, the tomb was
remodeled in 1901, & in 1930-31 the inter, was reconstructed & tomb rededicated.
'Seated Lincoln" (see Washington, D.C.). Sarcophagus, near N. wall,
ly "Abraham Lincoln 1809-1865.** Mrs. Lincoln & 3 sons are buried
is marked simply
ST. 1 ILLINOIS 50f
in crypts along S. wall. (Rbt Todd Lincoln is buried in Arlington Cemetery). (13)
(S) on Belt Hy. to 4,000-a. L. Springfield. Water impounded at Spaulding Dam
supplies city Water & Light Plant (O). The 60-mile shore line is lined with cottages,
private clubs & yr.-round residences. Pk. (on E. side), conn, with mainland by Vachel
Lindsay Mem. Bridge, incl. Lincoln Mem. Garden. Bridge View Beach (Negro)*
SIDE TRIP: On US66 (NE) 30m to Lincoln, only town in U.S. named for Abr. Lincoln
during his early yrs. He gave legal assistance in its planning & incorporation. Site of Post-
vilie Cth. (now in American Village, Dearborn, Mich.). Lincoln Jr. College (Presb.).
On SU21 (SE) llm, near J. with US54, is Mount PulasM Cth. (1847.Gr.Rev.inter.rest),
also assoc. with Lincoln.
Mem. Hy. leaves Springfield on St.97-St.125. At 48, it turns (N) with St97. 60.
NEW SALEM ST. PK. (f.pic.camp.restaurant), 200 as. on bluff overlooking Sanga-
mon R. Here is authentic reprod. of village where Lincoln lived for 6 yrs. (183 1-37),
where he clerked, chopped wood, served as postmaster, surveyor & lawyer^ Village
began with gristmill built by Jas. Rutledge & John Cameron in 1828, & its brief
prosperity declined when cry. seat was est. at Petersburg (see below) in 1839. In
1906, Wm. R. Hearst bought site for Old Salem Chautauqua Assoc., & in 1918
title was transferred to st. Only orig. bldg. is Onstot Cooper Shop (1835). Rutledge
Tavern, where Lincoln stayed; 13 cabins, sch. & ch. cabin & 10 stores, shops &
mills have been reprod. & furnished; also dam, sawmill & gristmill on R. 62.
PETERSBURG. In Oakwood Cemetery is Grave of Ann Rutledge, who died in
1835. Lincoln TrL (not yet completed) winds (W) through Sangamon valley. 92,
BEARDSTOWN, on IU. R. City Hall (1845) was scene of Duff Armstrong trial, in
which Lincoln defended son of Hanna Armstrong, friend of New Salem days.
His eloquence brought pioneer jury to tears. J. with US67 & StlOO (see HI. Water-
way Tour).
ST. 1 ILLINOIS
CHICAGO (S) to ELL.-KY. LINE (ll m from Marion, Ky.). 336. Stl
Via: Harvey, Chicago Heights, Moraence, St. Anne, Watseka, Danville, Georgetown,
Paris, Marshall, Lawrencevilie, Mount Cannel, Norris City & Cave-in-Rock.
Stl is excellent hy. down E. border to J. of Wabash & Ohio Rs. & then some miles
inland to Ky. Line. For much of route, hy. travels Hubbard Trl. from Vincennes to
Ft. Dearborn. Gurdon Hubbard, Amer. Fur Co. agent, marked trl. with his Cones-
toga wagons from Danville to Chicago in 1833.
27.5* CHICAGO HTS. (see Chicago Trip I), J. with US30 (see). 52. MOMENCE,
industrial town on Kankakee R., was a stopping place on Hubbard Trl. J. with St. 17,
which leads (W) to Kankakee (see US45). 65. ST. ANNE. Replica of St Anne de
Beaupre Shrine (Canada) in St Anne's Ch. Route of Stl through mining & farm
country (S) is varied by pleasant R. valleys & ridges of glacial moraines. 132. DAN-
VILLE (through RR. & bus conns. Accoms.), coal-mining & industrial center with
one of largest brick plants in U.S. Large dairy & stock farms in vie. After Kickapoo
ceded Vermilion Cry. area in 1819, the site was developed as cty. seat Gurdon Hub-
bard est post in 1828-& was leading citizen until he moved to the "smaller town" of
Chicago on the prairie. Another early settler was Ward Hill Lamon, law partner &
trusted friend of Lincoln, though temperamentally his opposite. Lamon was a Va.
man, convivial & full of robust good humor. Jos. G. Cannon was a later Danville
resident Soldiers Mon (1922.by Lorado Taft). Victory Mem. Bridge (1922). J.
with US150, with which Stl unites (S).
SIDE TRIP: On US150 (W) 8m to Kickajjoo St Pk. (f.boatcamp.pic.), 1,500 as. along
Middle Fork of Vermilion R. After salt & coal deposits were exhausted, the area was
abandoned until acquired by st in 1939. Meanwhile, the woodland & precipitous banks of
larger Ls. & ravines had regained primeval beauty.
167. PARIS, mfg. & RR. center, with fine houses & wide streets around pub. sq.
Here Lincoln began law practice in 1842. During Civil War, Edgar Cty. had many
belligerent Copperheads whose attack on Paris, Feb. 1864, was prevented only by
Fed troops. Antislavery feeling also was strong, & both Lincoln & Owen Lovejoy
(see) spoke to large audiences. 183. MARSHALL, J. with US40 & with St.67, part
of Lincoln Nat. Mem. Hy., with which Stl unites as far as J. with St.33 at 210.
At 229. is LAWRENCEVILLE, on Embarrass R. (E. 10^ from Vincennes, Ind.).
Org. in 1 821, settlement was named for Jas. Lawrence, Comdr. of "USS Chesapeake**
510 US 45 ILLINOIS
in War of 1812. It is center of richest oil-producing reg. in 111. Also in vie. is large
natural gas field. J. with US50. 252. MOUNT CARMEL, center of good farming
country. In rugged S. sec. of tour, hy. crosses numerous Rs. 286. CARMI, crossed
by Little Wabash R. which joins greater Wabash a few miles N. of confluence with
the Ohio. 298. NORMS CITY, J. with US45 (see). 317. St.1 crosses Saline R. at
edge of E. sec. of Sfaawnee Nat For. (see). 335.5. CAVE-IN-ROCK. Near village
is Cave-In-Rock St. Pk. (f.boat.pic.camp.). The great cave in bluff on Ohio R. was
discovered by white man in 1744, known to Inds. as "Dwelling Place of the Great
Spirit." After Rev. War, it was hiding place for robbers who preyed on riverboats.
Entrance, 55' wide, is halfway up bluff, & tunnel extends nearly 200' into the rock.
Ferry (auto & passenger) crosses Ohio R., ILL.-KY. LINE, at 336.
US 45 ILLINOIS
HX.-WIS. LINE (5m from Bristol, Wis.) (S) to ILL.-KY. LINE (Paducah, Ky.).
430. US45
Via: Milburn, Mundelein, Des Plaines, La Grange, Bradley, Kankakee, Oilman, Pax-
ton, Rantoul, Champaign & Urbana, Mattoon, Effingham, Flora, Fairfield, Norris City,
Harrisburg, Vienna, Metropolis, Brookport.
US45 traverses 111. (N-S) from lake reg. near border, through suburban Chicago &
across prairie & mining area; then over Ozarks to Ohio R.
Sec. 1: WIS. LINE to MATTOON. 227.
Tour crosses Chain O' Lakes recr. area, among hilly glacial moraines. For nearly
100 m , route is in Greater Chicago. Then (S) are pastures & red barns of important
dairy reg. 55. Hy. enters valley of Des Plaines R., route utilized by Inds. & explorers.
111. & Mich. Canal followed R. gorge, & Sanitary & Ship Canal takes same path.
100. BOURBONNAIS, an old settlement where Fr. is still the popular language.
Noel La Vasseur, partner of Gurdon Hubbard (see), est. trading post in 1832 &
encouraged Fr.-Can. settlement in Kankakee R. valley. Through the cty. are their
stone fences & houses, chs. & convents, & many villages & towns have names such
as L'Erable, St. Anne, Papineau, Momence.
103. KANKAKEE, on R. of same name, began as part of Bourbonnais but was
inc. in 1855, when 111. Cent. RR. made it a depot. In short time, it became cty. seat
& important town. Geo. Grey Barnard Coll., in Central Sen., was given by the
sculptor, a former pupil. Kankakee St. Hospital for the Insane, est. in 1878, is one
of largest in U.S.; cottage plan (O.appl.). Scenic R. drives on St. 1 13. From Kankakee,
US45 travels through one of world's richest corn & grain areas, where immense
fields are broken only by separating hedges & woodlots. Along hy. are many sm.
villages. 130. GBLMAN & 135. ONARGA, are larger settlements with some sm.
industries. 152. PAXTON, sett, by Swedish people, many of them graduates of
ancient Univs. of Lund & Upsala; seat of Augustana College (see Rock I.), 1863-75.
162. RANTOUL, known for Chanute Field, important Army Air Force post &
Technical Training Command, named for Octave Chanute, pioneer in gliding.
180. URBANA & CHAMPAIGN
Through RR. & bus conns. Airports (no scheduled serv.). Accoms. Golf at Kenwood
Links (sm.fee). Mun. swim, pool & rink. Univ. tennis courts (O. to pub.). Dramatic,
musical & other Univ. events. Info.: Champaign C. of C., 318 N. Neil St.; Urbana
Assoc. of Com., 201 W. Main St
The 2 municipalities, with Wright St as dividing line, share one of st.'s leading univs.
Urbana, older & smaller ^city, with most of Univ. bldgs., is much like other at-
tractive college towns, while Champaign has large bus. dist, numerous factories &
the RRs., as well as pleasant residential sees. College dormitories & houses, shops
& eating places are about equally divided. Urbana, sett, in 1820's, boomed with
laying of 111. Cen. RR. tracks 2 m N. in 1854, but Depot refused to be inc. with Old
Town & became Champaign in 1860. The rival cities united in lobbying for new
univ. est. in 1867 as 111. Industrial College. Under Gov. John P. Altgeld (see) in
1890*s, the sch. received sufficient aid to gain recognition as ranking st. univ. PTS.
OF INT. IN CHAMPAIGN: (1) Neil St. & Univ. Ave., City Bldg. (1937.Mod.),
simple & beautiful structure with 6-story tower. (2) Church & State Sts., in West
Side Pk., "Prayer for Rain," by Edw. Kemeys, sculptor of Chicago Art Institute
US 45 ILLINOIS 511
lions. PTS. OF INT. IN URBANA: (3) Park St. & Broadway, Crystal Lake Pk.
(swim.bridle paths.). Uniy. of Illinois has 12 colleges & schools on Urbana-
Champaign campus & 3 colleges in Chicago. South Campus is devoted largely
to excellent College of Agric. Old Campus is N. of Green St., & main quad-
rangle with newer Georg. bldgs. is S. (4) On the Mall, Lincoln Hall, with Mus.
of European Culture (O.wks.). (5) S, Campus, Mem. Stadium (1924), one of finest in
U.S. (6) N. Campus, Mathews St, Mini Union (1938). (7) S. end of Mall, Lib., one of
ranking libs, in U.S. (8) S. of Mall, Morrow Plots, among oldest soil experiment plots
(1876). Of special int. also are Natural Resources Bldg., Home Research Center
(1940) & Smith Mem. Music HalL
194. PESOTUM, like many prairie towns, is centered by towering grain elevator
beside RR. tracks. 203. TUSCOLA & 212. ARCOLA are centers of broom industry.
Much fine-leaved broom corn is grown in vie.
SIDE TRIP: On St.133 (W) 9m from Arcola to Arflmr, center of large Amish community;
traditional crafts, customs & speech.
227. MATTOON, one of larger towns on US45; shipping & mfg. center for pros-
perous agric. reg. Fish Hatchery, on L. Mattoon (SW). J. with St. 16 sec. of Lincoln
Nat. Mem. Hy. (see).
Sec. 2: MATTOON to KENTUCKY LINE. 203.
SHELBYVBLLE MORAINE, (S) of Mattoon, marks farthest reach of Wis. Glacier,
Corn, hay & wheat are important crops, but fields are broken by orchards & wooded
valleys of numerous streams. 7. Hy. rises over ridge of moraine. 28. EFFINGHAM,
largest center in Effingham Cty., which was sett, largely by Germans in 1860's.
Near town (W) is L. Kanaga (bath.cortages). J. with US40 (see). At 60. US45 unites
(E) with US50 for a few miles. 61. FLORA, the big town of Clay Cty. Around it are
immense beet & clover fields. 63. Tour turns (S) past some of Clay Cty. oil wells.
88. FADRFIELD, sett in 1819, mingles modern industry with relics of the past. J.
with Stl5.
SIDE TRIP: On Stl5 (E) 17m to Albion, 1st of Eng. colonies founded by Geo. Flower
(1788-1862), who was enchanted by 111. prairie. He brought colonists from England &
founded Albion in 1818, was prominent in antislavery movement.
109. ENFEELD (sett 181 3); mule sale on Homecoming Day (Oct.). 117. NORRIS
CITY. J. with Stl (see). From here onward, country is quite different from rest of
HI., both in its rugged contours, & in hist. & social pattern. Scenery is strikingly
beautiful, especially in Ozark Range. Tulip tree, sycamore, beech, butternut & other
common trees reach greater height & size in the ravines & rich bottomlands. The
people keep sense of hist, importance & family kinship to marked degree. 130. EL-
DORADO, sm. mining town. 137. HARRISBURG, on C.C.C. & St.L. RR., im-
portant coal-mining center. Hqs. of Shawnee Nat For. (see below). 151. STONE-
FORT, one of numerous prehist structures in these hills. 155. E. sec. of Shawnee
Nat For. borders hy. near NEW BURNSIDE. Almost directly E., in for., is
Williams Lookout (pic.) on 2nd highest pt. in 111. Shawnee Nat. For. (camp.pic.
cabins.boatf .), only one in 111., incl. sees, along Ohio R. & on Miss. R.
158. J. with Eddyville Rd., which branches (E) to Trigg Lookout (pic.), honoring
L O Trigg who spent yrs. in working for est. of for. [Rd. cont. to Bell Smith Springs
(pic.), & (S) to Dixon Springs Exper. Sta. of Univ. of 111.] US45 gradually descends
into wooded country through which Clark marched to peaceful conquest of Kas-
kaskia (see). 170. VIENNA, seat of Johnson Cty. since 1818. J. with St. 146, which
leads (E) 13 m to L. Glendale & Dixon Springs St Pk. (piagroup camp.), around one
of st's oldest resorts. US45 follows embankment along Cypress Swamp, lumbered
in 1880's. Cypress here grows from 80' to 130' high. 192. METROPOLIS began with
Ft Massac (see below). Later, the "metropolis of the West" was platted a little N.,
in belief that Ohio R. would be bridged there. Metropolis (ferry) has charm of
Southern city, with magnolia & gum trees on ample lawns. A mile (S) is Ft Mas-
sac St Pk* (f.camp.pic.refreshments.facils.game preserve). Site of Ft Massac (to be
reconstructed), built by Fr. in 1757. Gen. Clark & his Ky. Long Knives stopped here
in 1778 In 1794 Gen. Wayne ordered site refortified under Capt. Zebulon Pike.
Statue of Clark (by Leon Hermant). 202.5. BROOKPORT. Near-by is Lock &
Dam No. 52, constructed of movable wickets. US45 crosses Ohio R. (free bridge)
to Paducah, Ky., 203.
512 US 51 ILLINOIS
US 51 ILLINOIS
ILL.-WIS. LINE (Beloit, Wis.) (S) to KY. LINE (5 m from Wickliffe, Ky.). 417. US51
Via: Rockford, Rochelle, Mendota, Peru, La Salle, Wenona, El Paso, Normal & Bloom-
ington, Clinton, Decatur, Pana, Vandalia, Sandoval, Centralia, Ashley, Du Quoin,
Carbondale, (Mound City), Cairo.
Sec. 1: WIS. LINE to DECATUR. 197.
US51 sweeps (N-S) down middle of st, giving view of almost every type of scenery,
& intersected by main (E-W) routes. From S. BELOIT, tour follows winding Rock R.
known for beauty of valley; many waterpower sites & industrial centers. 19. ROCK-
FORD. J. with US20 (see) & St.2, river Rd. 44. ROCHELLE, attractive prairie
town; was home of Chas. Butterfield, who wrote 4t When You & I Were Young,
Maggie," & Francis Roe, composer of "Just Before the Battle, Mother." Spring L.;
mun. bathh. (sm.fee). 56. J. with US30 (see). Tree-capped ridges of merged Bloom-
ington & Shelbyvilie moraines are silhouetted against sky (W) from here to
Bloomington. US51 ascends slope of 1st ridge. 74. MENDOTA, from which millions
of cans of corn are shipped annually. J. with US34 (see) & US52, with which US51
unites. 79. US52 turns E.
SIDE TRIP: On US52 (E) 2m to Troy Grove, birthpL of Jas. Butler (Wild Bill) Hickok
(see). Wad Bill Hickok St, Moo.
86. US51 forks, one branch (E) entering Peru, & main route LA SALLE, at 90.
(see 111. Waterway Tour). J. with US6 & St.71, routes (E) through Starved Rock &
Buffalo Rock St. Pks. (see). 94. OGLESBY, center of cement industry, drawing upon
limestone & slate deposits of Vermilion R. valley. At edge of town is Mattfaiessen
St. Pk. (pic.guides.refreshments), nature preserve. 105. J. with St.18.
SIDE TRIP: On St.18 (E) 12m to Streator, industrial town in midst of rich deposits; glass,
tile, brick & foundry products are leading industries. In Riverview Cemetery is Grave of
Honey Boy Evans, noted black-face minstrel & composer.
111. WENONA. Hy. is bordered with fields of soy beans, of which 111. is a leading
producer. 134. EL PASO. J. with US24 (see). 140. J. with Rd. (E) to L. Bloomington
(tboatswim.), summer resort 142. HUDSON (E.of hy,). Fire Oaks (1836), birthpl.
of Melville E. Stone, gen. mgr. of Assoc. Press in its early yrs.
152. BLOOMINGTON & NORMAL
Through RR. & bus conns. Mun. Airport, on St.9 (E). Accoms. Golf & other recr.
facils. College events. Miller Pk. (zoo & aquarium.boat^wim.). Amer. Passion Play
(Palm Sun. & 10 Suns, following), at Scottish Rite Temple.
US51-US66 (Main St) crosses W. edge of Normal, seat of 111. St. Normal Univ., &
cont (S) through center of Bloomington, home of 111. Wesieyan Univ. In early
1820's, settlers of Brit, stock came to trading post near grove at meeting of Ind.
trls., & settlement came to be known as Blooming Grove. Jas. Allin, in 1830, took
land N. of grove & offered McLean Cty. a cth. site. The new town, platted as
Bloomington, prospered with est of univ. in 1853 & laying of RR. tracks in 1854.
111. St. Normal Univ,, 2nd W. of Alleghenies, was awarded to N. Bloomington (now
Normal) in 1857. Lincoln's crucial "Lost Speech" was made here at Anti-Nebraska
Convention, 1856, when 111. Republican party was org. Bloomington was home of
Judge David Davis (see); Adlai Stevenson, U.S. Vice-Pres.; Govs. J. M. Hamilton &
Jos. Fifer; Rachel trotters, writer, & Margaret Illington, who honored town &
state in her stage name. "Bloomington Daily Pantagraph," staunch supporter of
Lincoln, has been published continuously since 1846. Spreading over wooded
moraine, Bloomington looks much more a univ. town than the important mfg.,
commercial & RR. center which it also is. Residential & campus neighborhoods
have many Viet, mansions on broad lawns, while bus. dist was largely rebuilt after
fire in 1900.
PTS. OF INT. IN BLOOMINGTON: (1) 901 N. McLean St., Adlai H. Stevenson H.
(1850*s.Tudor). Stevenson (1835-1914) came from Ky. in 1852, was elected Vice
Pres. in 1893 & defeated with Wm. J. Bryan in 1900. (2) 1100 E. Jefferson St,
David Davis HL, where Davis lived before becoming Judge of 8th Circuit (see US24).
(3) 110 E. Mulberry St., Scottish Rite Temple (Ital.Ren.). (4) East & Grove Sts.,
McLean Cty. Hist Soc. (O.wks.), in McBarnes Mem. Bldg.; Lincolniana & hist,
colt. (5) Grove & S. Main Sts., Site of BirthpL of Elbert Hubbard, author of 170
"Little Journeys" to homes of famous people. (6) East & Front Sts., Plaque comm.
US 51 ILLINOIS 513
Lincoln's Lost Speech, May 29, 1856. (7) On Chestnut St., Alton RR. Shops, town's
largest industry. First Pullman car was built here & made 1st trip Sept. 1, 1859. (8)
East St., bet. Graham & Emerson Sts., HI. Wesleyan Univ. (opened in 1851), est. &
supported by Meth. Episc. church. Hodding College, founded in Abingdon, 111, was
united with univ. in 1930. Hodding Hall (1871). North Hall (1850's). Buck Mem.
Lib. Presser Hall (Mod.). PTS. OF INT. IN NORMAL: (1) Bet. Beaufort & Mul-
berry Sts., HI. St Normal Univ., (est. in 1856), conn, with Wesleyan by Franklin
Ave. Old Mam (1857). Milner Lib. (1940.Georg.), notable for functional design.
Demonstration Farm. (2) 202 W. Mulberry St., Site of Hovey H. Col. C. E. Hovey
was 1st pres. of 111. St Normal Univ. & father of Rich. Hovey, poet. Beech & Lin-
coln Sts., ML St Soldiers' & Sailors' Children's Sch., on beautiful 160-a. campus.
J. with US66 & St.9, which cont. (NW) 20^ to Dells of MacMnaw R. (good f. & h.).
S. of Blopmington, the union of modern machinery & agric. is evident on all sides
but especially in the vast cornfields. 175. CLINTON. Lincoln, riding the 8th Circuit,
often stopped at Baraett Hotel (O.appL). US51 crosses Salt Cr. & follows edge of
Shelbyvifie Moraine.
197. DECATUR
Through RR. & bus conns. Mun. Airport, 2.5m (E) off US36. Good accoms. Recr.
facils. in Nelson & other pks. L. Decatur (swim.boatwinter sports). Town & Gown
Players & Little Theater. Midwinter Ice Carnival. Info.: Assoc. of Com., in Decatur
Club Bldg.
Decatur, prairie town on Sangampn R., seat of Millikin College, is trade, cultural &
recr. center for wide area; sometimes called Soybean Capital of Amer. The Sanga-
mon, an early link bet. backwoods & 111. & Miss. Rs., crosses town to L. Decatur,
formed by dam (1923) at NE. limits. Gold dome of Staley Mfg. Co. Adm. Bldg,
(14 stories) is visible for miles around. Staley Co., makers of corn & soybean
products, is a leading industry, & Wabash RR. shops provide employment for
thousands. Coal fields & more recently discovered oil in vie. make Decatur one of
st's important industrial towns. It was laid out in 1829 & named for hero of Tripoli.
Abr. Lincoln began to study law in Decatur County Cth. & was 1st mentioned for
Presidency at IU. Republican convention here in 1860. Lincoln went down the
Sangamon in 1831, when he hired out with Denton Offut to take flatboat to New
Orleans, his 1st experience of world beyond the prairies. PTS. OF INT.: (1) W. Main
St., Jas. MilMMia. Univ., accredited liberal arts & vocational univ., & Millikm Con-
servatory of Music. Pres. Theodore Roosevelt made dedicatory address when 4 of
the attractive Elizabethan bldgs. were opened in Sept., 1903. (2) Adj. campus (NW)
is Fairview Pk. (pic.recr.facils.). Log Cabin Cih. (1829), "chinked & daubed by
John Hanks." (3) 457 N. Main St, Pub. Lib.; Lincoln Coll. (4) 200 E. Main St.,
Site of Wigwam where Lincoln was nominated. (5) N. 22nd & E. Eldorado Sts.,
A. E. Staley Mfg. Co. Plant (O.tours), incl. 40 or more bldgs. Adm. Bldg. (1929.by
Aschauer & Waggoner). (6) L, Decatar, circled by 12 m drive.
J. with US36 (see Lincoln Nat Mem. Hy.), Stl21 & StlOS.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.121 (SE) c.7m to Spider Woods St Pk., considered one of love-
liest; left largely in natural state.
(B) On St. 105 (NE) 23m to Bement. Here Bryant Cottage St. Mem. was ded. in 1947. Here
Lincoln & Douglas planned the 7 debates. F. E. Bryant, their host, was cousin of Wm.
Culleii Bryant
Sec. 2: DECATUR to KY. LINE. 220.
US51 crosses Shelbyville Moraine & cont. (S) through coal country. 16. MOWEA-
QUA, scene of mining disaster in 1932. 34. PANA, rose-growing center. Hothouses
utilize local coal supply. Kitchel Pk. (tourist camp.pic.swim.). 65. VANDALIA,
on Kaskaskia R. with wooded moraine in background, was 2nd capital of 111. (1819-
39). To inaugurate land boom, Congress was petitioned & granted land where
capital should remain for 20 yrs. Vandalia St H. (1836.Gr.Rev.), orig. furnishings.
In this bldg. an act was passed incorporating the sm. prairie town of Chicago in far
N. In front is Madonna of the Trl. Mom., one of 12 erected by D.A.R. along Nat
Rd. (now US40), which terminated at Vandalia. Pub. Lib.; Lincolniana.
For next 100 miles, US51 crosses some of richest coal fields in U.S., a reg. also rich
in oil. 76. VERNON, surrounded by peach & pear orchards, in pleasant contrast to
mining centers. 79. PATOKA, in st's largest oil field. 90. SANDOVAL, mining
town. J. with US50.
514 MISSISSIPPI RIVER TOUR
SIDE TRIP: On US50 (E) 10m to Salem, oil center; birthpl. of Wm. Jennings Bryan (1860-
1925), pacifist & defender of free silver & fundamentalism; Secy, of War under Pres.
Wilson until World War I. Bryan H. (O.I 852), now a Mus.
97. CENTRALIA, platted by 111. Cent RR. in 1853 & still very much a RR. town.
Among 1st settlers were many Germans who gave it solid financial beginning, its
"saengerfest," & prevailing architectural style. Coal miners, oil workers & RR. men
mingle in stores, bars, banks & union halls. Scattered oil derricks rise in the fields
while hillsides bloom with peach orchards. One of worst mining disasters occurred
in Centralia Mine No. 5 on March 25, 1947, when 111 men were killed in explosion.
Extensive underground workings of the mine, opened in 1907, made a trap for the
miners. Dangerously dry & dusty state of mine had been recognized for several yrs.
Centralia Coal Co. was indicted for "wilful negligence" & fined $1,000. Legislature
passed resolution expressing "profound grief & sorrow" & purchased painting "The
Coal Miner." Since 1938, oil in vie. has surpassed coal in importance. Strawberries
are a leading product BRVEVGTON, at 106., was once strawberry capital, with
migratory pickers arriving from all sides. Today its peach orchards are of greater
value. 117. ASHLEY. J. with St. 15.
139. DU QUOIN, largest of string of mining towns on route to CARBONDALE,
160., RR. & trade center at heart of coal-mining reg. Southern HI. Univ., founded
in late 1860's, is coed, liberal arts univ., with colleges of Education, Liberal Arts &
Sciences, & Vocations & Professions; master's degree in education. Child Guidance
Clinic. Concerts by orchestra, chorus, band (0). Mus. of Natural & Social Sciences
(O). J. with St. 13, which leads (E) to Crab Orchard L. Across level prairies (S), the
Ozarks range along horizon. Their highest peaks reach only 700', but their beauty
lies in massive formations, densely forested slopes & ravines. At c.165., hy. enters
sec of SHAWNEE NAT. FOR. (pic.camp.f .h.boat), hqs. at Harrisburg (see US45).
172. (E. of hy.) GIANT CITY ST. PK. (pic.camp.lodge.cabins.refreshments), in
which are some most remarkable phenomena of these ancient folded hills. Rd.
ascends to tableland (lodge O.yr.rpund) overlooking Ozarks. Near Lodge (W) is
Giant City, created by erosion, which cut narrow "avenues" bet. towering walls of
sandstone. Near N. entrance is Old Stone Ft During Civil War, the caves of the
Ozarks harbored deserters from both armies, & Knights of the Golden Circle held
secret meetings here. 177. Rd. angles (W) a mile or two to Alto Pass; best lookout
in St on Bald Knob (1,0300, in U.S. For. Serv. Tower. 181. ANNA. On St. 146 (W)
1 is Jonesboro, scene of 3rd Lincoln-Douglas Debate. 214. MOUNDS. Bet. US51
& St.37 is Mound City Nat. Cemetery (est.1866), where are buried more than 5,600
soldiers & sailors of several wars. HI. Soldiers* Mon. (1874). In Monad City, (E) l m ,
are Marine Ways, on Ohio R., used in Civil War. 217. Hy. unites with St.3. 220.
CAIRO (see Miss. R. Tour), at J. of Ohio & Miss. Rs. US51 crosses impressive
cantilever bridge (toll), ELL.-KY. LINE.
MISSISSIPPI RIVER TOUR
ELL.-IOWA LINE (Dubuque, Iowa) (S) to BLL.-KY. & MO. LINE (Cairo, HI.).
562. US20, St80, US67, St94, St.96, St.100, US67, St.3
Via: E. Dubuque, Galena, Savanna, Fulton, Moline, Monmouth, Biggsville, Dallas City,
Nauvoo, Quincy, Pittsfield, Kampsville, Grafton, Alton, E. St. Louis, Cahokia, Water-
loo, Chester, Thebes. Through RR. & bus conns. Accoms., recr. facils. in cities; numer-
ous St. & roadside pks., pic. & camp sites.
Miss. R. is followed by Fed. & St. hys. for greater part of course along W. border
of HI., through impressive scenery & past notable sites & hist, cities.
Sec. 1: IOWA LINE to DALLAS CITY. 190
0. E. DUBUQUE. 11. J. with St80, which unites with US20 to Apple R. 13.
GALENA (see US20). 26. Tour swings (S) with St.80 through increasingly rugged
country; many quarries. 45. MISS. PALISADES ST. PK. (f.pic.camp.refreshments).
Campgrounds are high above R. in old orchard; trls. to crest of Palisades, Twin
Sisters, Ind. Head & other strange formations. 46. SAVANNA, founded in 1828;
RR. & trade center & livestock shipping pt Savanna-Sabula Bridge (toll) crosses R.
to J. with US67, in Iowa. Near Savanna (S) is Fish Rescue Sta. St.80 parallels C.B.
& Q. RR. at some distance from bluffs, crossing prairie country given over to dairy
MISSISSIPPI RIVER TOUR 515
<& fattening of cattle. The sandy soil is also good for melons. 55. THOMSON, center
for duck hunters. Annual Melon Day. 64. FULTON, residential community &
truck-gardening center. J. with US30, which crosses (toll bridge) to Clinton, la.
From this point to Quad Cities (see Rock I. & Moline), St80 is close to R. (fine camp
sites & cabin groups). 100. MOLINE (see). Here St80 ends at J. with US6 (see).
Adj. Moline is ROCK ISLAND (see), at 103. Black Hawk St Pk. (f .pic.camp.guides.
refreshments). For 100 or more miles there is no main hy. along R. Tour cont. (S)
on US67. At 148. MONMOUTH (see US34). J. with US34, with which tour unites
(W). 164. J. with St.94, which becomes main tour (S) to 179., where it turns (W)
again on St.96. 190. DALLAS CITY, river town.
Sec. 2: DALLAS CITY to EAST ST. LOUIS. 222
16* NAUVOO, mecca of thousands who wish to see annual Grape Festival in beau-
tiful old town, site of Jos. Smith's Mormon community & of Cabefs Icarian village.
Nauyoo extends from Flats up terraced hills & into level country beyond. Vineyards
in vie. produce wines for which Nauvoo has been known since 1850's. In 1824,
Capt Jas. White traded 200 sacks of corn to Sac & Fox Inds. for their village, & by
1830 a p.o. was est. in Venus, as new settlement was called. Commerce, an older
town, absorbed Venus in 1834 & was formally org. in 1837. When Jos. Smith (see)
was driven from Mo., he brought his followers to Commerce City &, under special
charter, renamed it Nauvoo (Hebrew for "pleasant land")- A city of 20,000 grew up,
& bldg. of great temple was begun in 1841 (never completed). The Gentiles feared
political strength of the Saints, & charges of polygamy (never openly practiced) &
other offenses were made against them. When "Expositor" was published by faction
of the church "striking a blow at tyranny & oppression," Smith had the press &
copies of paper destroyed. The Laws, leaders of the faction, had Smith & his brother
arrested & lodged in Carthage jail (see below). A mob broke in, June 27, 1844, &
murdered the Prophet & his brother Hyrum. Brigham Young took the leadership,
disposed of the rich properties & led the Saints to Salt L. City (see). In 1849, the
Fr. Icarians, led by Etienne Cabet (1788-1856), took possession of the deserted
town. Lot Cabefs "Voyage to Icaria," the ideas back of this experiment are devel-
oped, similar to contemporary communism in emphasis on st. control of social &
economic affairs. Colony prospered until dissension & dissatisfaction destroyed its
harmony. Cabet, with some 200, went to St. Louis, Mo. while others est. colony
near Corning, la. (see). The Cath. pastor started grape-growing with vines from St.
Louis settlement, & the remaining Icarians started making wines, aided by Irish &
German immigrants. Before Civil War, Nauvoo wines were shipped from 40 arched
cellars to all parts of country. The industry flourished until Prohibition, when the
making of a blue cheese, similar to Roquefort, was begun in abandoned wine cellars.
After repeal, Nauvoo returned to wine making &, at annual Grape Festival, cele-
brates "Wedding of the Wine & Cheese" as it is done in Roquefort, France. PTS.
OF INT.: (1) Jos. Smith Homestead (O.1823), built by Ind. agent Near-by are
Graves of Jos., Emma & Hyrum Smith. (2) Mansion H. (O.I 842-43. remod.), Smith's
2nd home; a 2-story, white-pine bldg. maintained by Mormon Ch., as Mus. In coll.
are editions of "Book of Mormon" & other works of the Prophet (3) Nauvoo H.
(begun in 1841). (4) Brigham Young H. (O). (5) Site of Temple, which was burned
by incendiaries in 1848. (6) Icarian H.
St.96 runs close to R. (numerous pic. sites). Keoknk Lock & Dam, near HAMEL*
TON, 28., farm trade center. J. with St. 10, which crosses R. (toll bridge) to Keokuk,
la.
SIDE TRIP: On St.10 (E) llm to Carthage, substantial community est. in 1837. Carthage
Jail, property of Mormon Ch., was scene of murder of Jos. Smith in 1844. Carthage College
(Luth.), coed., was est. in 1870. 39m Macomb, seat of Western HI. St Teachers' College,
opened in 1902.
St.96 unites with St.10 for 4 m . [Here St.10 turns (W) to Ft Edwards Mon,, at War-
saw.] St.96 runs inland in straight line. 62. J. with US24 (see).
67. QUINCY
C.B. & Q. & Wabash RRs. Greyhound & other buses. Mun. Airport (E. 10m on St.104).
Quincy Mem. Bridge (free). Accoms. Steamboat excursions to Hannibal, Mo., from
Levee. Golf, swim. & other recr. facils. in Ind. Mound, South, & other pks. Annual
powerboat regatta. Info.: C. of C.
516 MISSISSIPPI RIVER TOUR
Quincy, seat of Quincy College & Notre Dame Academy, has beautiful setting along
bluffs in Mark Twain's country, a few miles N. of Hannibal, Mo. (see). Along water-
front are numerous large pks. & most of the industrial plants. Quincy is mfg. & trade
center for large area in 3 states. In 1822, John Wood (later Civil War gen. & gov.)
came to explore Military Bounty Tract. Soon soldiers & adventurers built up small
settlement which they named for the new Pres., John Quincy Adams, seat of Adams
Cty. For many yrs. it was st's 2nd city, trans. & commercial center.
FTS. OF INT.: (1) In Washington Pk., center of bus. dist, Site of 6th Lincoln-
Douglas Debate, marked by bronze bas relief by Lorado Taf t. Statue of John. Wood,
(2) 425 S. 12th St., John Wood H. (O.1835), now Hist. Soc. Mus. of Quincy & Adams
Counties; fine example of plantation style. (3) Mam & 16th Sts., Lorenzo Bull H.,
now Women's City Club; charming H. of pioneer period. (4) In Riverview Pk.,
Statue of Geo. Rogere Clark (by Chas. Milligan). (5) NE. sect, HL Soldiers & Sailors
H. (1887). (6) S. limits, Ind. Mounds Pk. (7) 18th St. & College Ave., Quincy College,
coed., under Franciscan Fathers; founded in 1860. (8) 8th & Vermont Sts., Notre
Dame of Quincy, Cath. school for girls; founded 1867. (9) E. 27 m from Quincy,
Silcam Springs St. Pk.; more than 2,000 as. around former resort.
St96 cont (S) through fertile bottomlands. 91. KINDERHOOK. J. with US36,
over which tour turns (E) inland. 113. PITTSFDELD, sett, by Mass, pioneers &
known as gathering place of brilliant & cultured of early HI. 120. DETROIT. J.
with StlOO, which becomes main tour (S) along 111. R. (see 111. Waterway Tour).
171. PERE MARQUETTE ST. PK. (f.pic.boatswim.winter sports.lodge.cabins.
refreshments.boat dock.mus.). 178. GRAFTON. 196. ALTON. 222. E. ST. LOUIS
(see E. St. Louis Trip IV for this sec.).
Sec. 3: E. ST. LOUIS to KY. LINE (Cairo). 150. St.3
0. E. ST. LOUIS. Tour follows St3, paralleling Miss. R. through Amer. Bottom,
once heart of Fr. empire in Amer. 4. CAHOKIA, oldest town in 111., founded in
1699 by missionaries, guided here by Tonti, of the Iron Hand (see). 42. RUMA.
[From here St. 155 leads 7 m (W) to Prairie Du Rocher, founded in 1722 as part of
Miss. Bubble lands, & to Ft Chartres St. Pk.] 55.5. Rd. leads a mile of so from hy.
(W) to Ft KaskasMa St Pk. (pic.comp.), near Kaskaskia, 1st capital in 111. (see E.
St Louis Trip I). 62. CHESTER. St.3 runs close to R. for some miles, then veers
(E) through sec. of Shawnee Nat For. (see). 85. MURPHYSBORO. From here hy.
edges the bluffs, then crosses rugged Ozark country (many pic. sites & spectacular
views). People in reg. show Southern ancestry in speech & customs; here & there
are patches of cotton. 80. FOUNTAIN BLUFF (W), curious formation more than
5 sq. miles in area; narrow Rd. to Fire Tower (O.lookout). 94. GRAND TOWER*
Motorboat to Tower Rock in Miss, R. 103. WOLF L. (scenic drive follows Ozarks
for 5m). 108. WARE. J. with SU46.
SIDE TRIP: On St.146 (E) 3m to site of Cherokee Encampment, where thousands of Inds.
from Ga. encamped for winter of 1839. Some 2,000 died of starvation & cold. At 5.5m is
Union Cty. St. For. (pic.).
125. ST. ROADSIDE PK. 132. OLIVE BRANCH (f.h.boat info.). Horseshoe L.
Came Refuge, on 1,400-a. I.
149. CAIRO
Through RR. & bus conns. Accorns. & recr. facils. Golf (daily fee) at Egyptian Coun-
try Club, (N) 10m on US51. Steamboat excursions from Ohio Levee. Info, at Assoc.
of Comm., 216 7th St
Cairo, where spring begins in Feb., has atmosphere of South, with gingko trees &
magnolias, canebrakes, cotton patches & catfish. It is still a river town of importance,
on levee-protected peninsula bet. Ohio & Miss. Rs. Long steel barges float into the
terminals, replacing packets of the past when this was biggest city in S. 111. Because
of concrete wall along Ohio Levee (improved by Fed. Gov. in 1936), Cairo was
only city on lower river to be untouched by flood of 1937. From the beginning, the
city turned toward the Ohio, & Ohio St., now lined with deserted taverns, warehs. &
stores, was once noisy with traders, steamboatmen, & travelers of all kinds. City is
residential except for industrial N. sec. In S. end, houses stand close together on
sm. lots sold by early promoters. In other areas, Viet, mansions on ampler estates
are scattered among modern bungalows. In center of city are schs., chs., homes, bus.
6 professional offices of Negro residents, about a third of total pop. Principal indus-
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 517
tries are cottonseed processing, warehousing & transshipping, & lumber mining. In
country around, long known as "Egypt," the fertile delta soil produces oats, corn &
hay, vegetables, fruit & watermelons.
Pere Marquette & other explorers noted the finger of land at meeting of Ohio &
Miss. Rs. & in 1702 a Fr. colony under Charles Juchereau de St. Denys set up ft &
tannery. Juchereau & others died of a mysterious disease, & the rest joined the Fr.
at Mobile. In 1817, Wm. & Thps. Bird & John Comegys, St. Louis merchant, took
up land within present city limits. Comegys had city & Bank of Cairo inc. in Jan.
1818, so named because of resemblance to city on the Nile. In 1820 Comegys died
& so did his plan for a diked city. A 2nd attempt was made in 1837 when the Boston
Yankee, Darius B. Holbropk, helped organize Cairo City & Canal Co. Levee was
built, pop. rose to 1,000 within yr. but the co. failed in 1840. Most inhabitants left,
& the flood of 1842 rolled over 'the breeding place of fever, ague & death" Chas.
Dickens had visited that spring. When traffic began on 111. Cent. RR. bet. Cairo &
Chi., Cairo got its finally successful start, & was inc. in 1857. During Civil War, it
was concentration pt for Union Army. In postwar yrs., it was most important city
in S. 111., with superior sens. & chs., sewers & sidewalks. Both R. & R&. shipping
prospered, but gradually the steel rails triumphed over the steamboat &, period
of growth was over, although Cairo remains an important port.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) In pk. bet. 9th & 10th Sts., "The Hewer," by Geo. Grey Barnard.
(2) 1609 Washington Ave., Pub. Lib. (1883). Mus. has colls, of Ind. & hist, materials,
incl. file of Cairo newspapers. (3) 2723 Washington Ave., Rendleman H., outstand-
ing among early Hs. (4) Ohio Levee Wall, bet 2nd & 8th Sts. (5) 609 Ohio St., Ohio
Bldg. (1858); Gen. Grant's hqs. (6) DL Central Bridge (1889.by Geo.S.Morrison).
(7) Ohio R. Hy. Bridge (1938.by Ray Williams & others); one of country's notably
beautiful bridges. (8) 2nd & Ohio Sts., Halliday Hotel (fee to non-guests), opened in
1859 as St. Chas. Hotel. Room 215 has furnishings from time when Gen. Grant
was a guest. Site of Ft Defiance is S. of hotel. (9) Miss. R. Hy. Bridge (1929.by
J.A.L.Waddell). Main channel span affords view of 3 states & confluence of Rs.
(sightseer's toll). (10) 4210 Sycamore St., Swift & Co. Oil Mm (O.appl.). (11) On St.3
(NW) 2.4, Roberts Bros. Cotton Gin (O.appl.), st's largest. 150. ILL.-KY. LINK
CHICAGO
RRs. (22 trunk & 17 belt lines): Maj. Stas.: LaSalle & Van Buren, LaSalle St. Sta.; S.
Dearborn & Polk Sts., Dearborn Sta.; Wells & Harrison Sts., Grand Central Sta.;
Roosevelt Rd. & Mich. Ave., Central Sta.; W. Madison & Canal Sts., Chi. & NW. Sta.;
Canal St. & Jackson Blvd., Union Sta. Buses: E. Randolph St. bet State St & S.
Wabash Ave., Trailways; 1157 S. Wabash Ave., Union Bus Depot, Greyhound. 6000
S. Cicero Ave., Mun. Airport (obsery.sm.fee). End of Grand Ave., Navy Pier, for Georg.
Bay & other steamship lines. Cruises from Mich. Ave. Bridge. Accoms.: All kinds.
Recr. info, at 425 E. 14th Blvd., Chi. Pk. Dist For. Preserve Dist. provides pic. &
camp sites, summer & winter sports facfls. Annual Events: Theodore Thomas Mem.
Concert, Orchestra Hall (early Jan.); Golden Gloves Tournament, Stadium (Feb.-Mar.);
Internat. Sportsmen's Show, Navy Pier (Feb.-Mar.); Easter Sunrise Serv., Soldier Field;
Mem. Day Parade; Ravinia Music Festival, Ravinia Pk. (July-Aug.); Chi. Reg. Artists
Exhibition, Art Institute (June-Aug.); Chl-Mackinac Races (July); Chicagoland Music
Festival, Soldier Field (Aug.); Internat. Live Stock Exposition, Internat. Amphitheater
(Nov.); numerous other music festivals, art exhibits, concerts, nationality group cele-
brations, regattas & trade shows. Info.: 1 N. LaSalle St., Assoc. of Com.; 2400 S. Mick
Ave., 111. Auto Club. Observ. Towers: Board of Trade Bldg., Tribune Tower & Wrigley
Bldg.
Chi., stretching 28 m along L. Mich., is 2nd city in size & importance in U.S., its
greatest livestock & grain-shipping market & distribution pt & world's leading meat-
packing center. Water-borne traffic in harbor exceeds that of Panama Canal. From
lake front, city rolls back across former swamplands over more than 200-sq.-mile
area, a fabric of neighborhoods, sm. towns & industrial communities. Site was key
pt on portage bet Gt Ls. & Gulf of Mex., on edge of country's richest agric. belt
& midway bet great ore & coal fields. Thousands of pioneers & foreign born were
drawn into ChL's expanding labor market. Present pop. is one-fourth foreign born,
with Poles, Germans, Russians, Itals. & Irish among largest groups. Most concen-
trated Negro community in world lives within sm. area bounded by 22nd & 67th
Sts. & Cottage Grove & Wentworth Aves.
518 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
The name, Chicago, comes from Ind. word for "strong, powerful," applied by Miami
to the R. because of pungent garlic beds along its banks. The modern metropolis
justifies orig. meaning in its vigor & bigness. It has world's largest hotel (Stevens),
largest commercial bldg. (Merchandise Mart) & one of largest stockyards. It is a
city of spectacular sports, mammoth conventions, fabulous fairs, mass demonstra-
tions & riots. Chi. has been, in turn, the pride of capitalistic enterprise & capital of
political corruption, gangsterism & market speculation. It has also been country's
greatest melting pot, hotbed of muckraking & leader of social reform, literary capi-
tal during "Amer. Renaissance" & home of univ. of internat. repute. Columbian
Exposition, 1893, celebrated Amer.'s position as world power & set architectural
standards for the nation. Cent, of Progress, 1933-34, flaunted miracles of science &
technology. In 1940's, Univ. of Chi. accepted responsibility for administration of
atomic energy labs, at Oak Ridge.
Along lake front is series of beautiful pks. & famous Mich. Ave. & L. Shore Dr.,
lined with great estates. Wacker Dr. follows curve of R. around the Loop, a tower-
ing mass of stone, concrete, steel & glass encircled by elevated tracks. From Board
of Trade Bldg., city's tallest structure, a gigantic aluminum "Ceres," goddess of
grain, looks down LaSalle St. Branches of Chi. R. cut rest of city into so-called N.,
S. & W. sides.
Hist, begins with the R. (see 111. Waterway Tour). In 1673 Joliet & Pere Marquette
portaged from Des Plaines to Chi. R. In 1676, Father Allouez was greeted by 111,
Inds. & sailed his canoe over the ice of frozen L. About 1690 a Miami Ind. band
est. 2 villages in vie., & Count Frontenac stationed garrison & trading post. Father
Francois Pinet's Mission lasted from 1696 to 1702, & then Fr.-Ind. settlement de-
clined. Jean Baptiste Point Sable, Santo Domingo Negro, built trading post in 1790's,
& here 1st permanent white settler, John Kinzie, made his home in 1804. Blockhs. &
stockade were erected by soldiers under Capt John Whistler, grandfather of painter,
& ft. was named for Henry Dearborn, Pres. Jefferson's Secy, of War. During War
of 1812, ft. was evacuated, & soldiers, women & children on their way to Detroit
were set upon by Inds. & more than half of them massacred. The Inds. burned Ft
Dearborn. It was not until Chi. was proposed as terminal for Ill.-Mich. Canal that
settlement really began.
City was platted in 1830 & inc. in 1833. Settlers crowded in after Black Hawk War,
& feverish speculation in land ensued. Surviving panic of 1837, Chi. became great-
est grain market in the world in 1840's & 50's & by time of Civil War was world's
leading lumber market & RR. center. Union Stock Yards were built & McCormick
<fc other factories rose. Most of the 300,000 residents were flimsily housed, & sewage
filtered into water supply, but mansions were rising along the L., mills, factories &
distilleries were busy, & saloons, race tracks & bawdy houses flourished. In July
1871, Main Chi. R. was diverted into S. Branch; & on Oct 8 the great fire began
in the O'Leary barn. Within little more than a day, 250 Chicagoans were dead &
thousands homeless & destitute. Nearly 18,000 bldgs. had been destroyed. Aided
by people all over Amer. & Europe, reconstruction began immediately, & in next
few yrs. a new city emerged. In 1892 the Drainage Canal was begun.
During last yrs. of 19th cent, nation-wide labor unrest found a focus in Chi. After
RR. strike of 1877 was broken by Fed. troops, the struggle became more intense &
bitter. Haymarket bombing & riot occurred in 1886; Alfred Parsons & 3 other
leaders were hanged. Gov. John P. Altgeld, one of great figures in Chi. hist., par-
doned 3 men who had been imprisoned. During Pullman Strike in 1894, Gov.
Altgeld protested Pres. Cleveland's action in sending in Fed. troops. Altgeld was
not reflected in 1896. During these same yrs. Hull H. was created (1889), Pub. Lib.
& Civic Federation founded, Louis Sullivan & other Chi, architects developed the
skyscraper, Theodore Thomas org. CM. Orchestral Assoc., & Univ. of Chi. was
opened (1892). In 1893 the "White City" on built-up marshlands (present Jackson
Pk.) housed World's Columbian Exposition, & in 1896 Wm. J. Bryan made "Cross
of Gold" speech at Democratic Nat. Convention. City also had gained unrivaled
reputation for political corruption, organized vice & hoodlumism. With 1900's, the
country's 1st juvenile court was est. & D. H. Burnham, architect of White City,
drew up plan for civic development. During World War I, Wm. Hale (Big Bill)
Thompson, an isolationist, was mayor, but Chi. entered the war with gusto & came
put with swollen profits. Thousands of Negroes had come to replace workers drawn
into armed forces, & conflict arose in congested areas. In South Side riot (1919),
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 519
22 Negro & 16 white persons were killed. In 1920's Chi. was notorious for gang-
sterism & corruption. Then came stock market crash, fall of Insull's empire & other
financial structures, repeal of prohibition & imprisonment of Al Capone. Chi. suf-
fered in the depression, but bravely opened Progress Exposition. Chi. still has
breezy, light-hearted air, but its sens., libs., & other civic institutions are convincing
evidence of maturity.
PTS. OF INT. DOWNTOWN: In Grant Pk. are: (1) Roosevelt Rd. & L. Shore Dr.,
Nat Hist Mus. (O.tours exc.Sun.cafeteria.1893.Gr.Ionic.by D.H.Burnham), one of
world's leading museums; formerly called Field Mus. In Stanley Field Hall are Carl
Akeley's groups of African natives. Of special note also are Malvina Hoffman's
"Races of Mankind," Hall of the Stone Age, Egyptian & meteorite colls. (2) NE.
of mus., John G. Shedd Aquarium (O.1924.Gr.Doric.by Graham, Anderson. Probst
& White), one of finest in U.S. (3) End of Congress St. concourse, Buckingham
Fountain (1927.by Bennett, Parsons & Frost, & Jacques Lambert), cited by "Ency-
clopedia Britannica" as "magnificent example of modern monumental fountain."
(4) Mich. Ave., at Adams St., Art Institute (O.guides), 2nd largest in U.S. Connected
with it are Sch. of Art, Goodman Mem. & Children's Theaters; Ryerson, Burnham
& other libs. Main bldg. (Ital.Ren.by Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge) was Parliament of
Religions Bldg., Columbian Exposition. In Hutchinson Wing is McKinlock Mem.
Ct with Carl Milles' (see) Triton Fountain. Notable colls, of 19th & 20th cent. Fr.,
Flemish primitive & Sp. painting. S. of Grant Pk. is Burnham Pk. (yacht harbor,
beaches.playfields.pic.f.), incl. site of Cent, of Progress. (5) Soldier Field, scene of
Dempsey-Tunney fight in 1927, Eucharistic Congress in 1926, Easter Sunrise Serv.
& Chicagoland Music Festival. Causeway on Northerly I. leads to (6) Adler Plane-
tarium (O.shows.l930.by Ernest Grunsfeld, Jr.), gift of Max Adler; Astronomical
Mus. Reprods. of Ft. Dearborn & Jean Point Sable's Cabin (N.O.).
(7) Loop, bounded by Wabash Ave., Van Buren & Wells & Lake Sts. State St is
shopping center. (8) 215 N. Mich. Ave., Chi. Galleries Assoc* (O.free); work of
leading Midwestern & Western artists. (9) 86 E. Randolph St., John Crerar Lib. (O.
wlcs.est.1894), internat known for medical, histological & other scientific colls.
Adj. is Lib. of Internat Relations (O.wks.). (10) Bet. Mich. Ave. & Garland Ct on
Randolph St, Pub. Lib. (1897.by Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge). Coll. began in 1872,
after the fire, with several thousand books sent from London under inspiration of
Thos. Hughes, author, & donated by Queen Victoria, Tennyson & other notables.
(11) 216 S. Mich. Ave., Orchestra Hall (1904.Fr.Ren.by Dan. Burnham), home of
Symphony Orchestra & Sunday Evening Club. Half cost of bldg. was pub. contri-
bution in honor of Theo. Thomas (1835-1905), orchestra founder. (12) Congress St.
bet. Mich. & Wabash Aves., Auditorium (1887-89.by Louis Sullivan), once housed
most famous theater & hotel in Amer. (13) Wabash Ave. & 9th St., Old St. Mary's
Ch. (Cath.1865), survivor of great fire; home of Paulist Choir. (14) State & Madison
Sts., Carson Pirie Scott Store (1899.by Adler & Sullivan). (15) State, Washington &
Randolph Sts. & Wabash Ave., Marshall Field Store (tours), one of largest & best
known in world. (16) State & Madison Sts., Mendel Bros. Store (tours). (17) Clark &
Washington Sts., Chicago Temple (Meth.Episc.1923.Goth.by Holabird & Roche); org.
in 1831. (18) 16 S. Clark St., ChL Loop Orthodox Synagogue (symbolic murals by
Raymond Katz). (19) S. La Salle & Monroe Sts., Chi. Stock Exchange (gallery). (20)
Clark St., bet Adams St. & Jackson Blvd., Fed. Bldg. (1905.Rom.Corinth.by H.I.
Cobb), scene of Standard Oil Co., Al Capone & other noted trials. (21) Jackson Blvd.
& La Salle St., Board of Trade (observ.tower.gallery), world's largest grain exchange
(org. in 1846). (22) 141 W. Jackson Blvd., Mercantile Exchange (gallery), world's
largest market for trading in eggs, butter, potatoes. (23) La Salle & Adams St., Field
Bldg. (1924.by Graham, Anderson, Probst & White), on site of 1st steel skyscraper,
the Home Life Insurance Bldg., designed by LeBaron Jenney in 1803. (24) Wacker
Dr. & Madison St, Civic Opera Bldg. (1929.by Graham, Anderson, Probst & White),
promoted by Sam. Insull.
(25) Mich. Ave. Bridge (1920) spans R. bet Site of Fort Dearborn & Site of Earliest
Settlement, on N. bank. (26) On W. Plaza, Wrigley Bldg. twin units, one with clock
tower (observ.sm.fee). (27) On E. Plaza, Trihune Tower (observ.sm.fee.tours). (28)
Several blocks E., Outer Dr. Bridge (1937), said to be largest bascule bridge in
world. (29) (W) along R. at N. Wells St, Merchandise Mart (1930.by Graham, An-
derson, Probst & White), a Marshall Field enterprise.
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DOWNTOWN
CHICAGO
COURTESY OF
CHICAGO ASSOCIATION OF
COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY
57) POINTS OF INTEREST
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 521
PTS. OF INT. NORTH SIDE: Here are Bughouse Sq. & remains of 19th cent. Gold
Coast; modern towers & depressing tenements; an artist colony in outdated man-
sions; palatial -cafes & cheap saloons. Along L. (N) is new Gold Coast. Rush St.,
paralleling Mich. Ave. through oldest part of city, has been called "combination of
Manhattan's 52nd St. & Greenwich Village." Until its bridge was superseded by
Mich. Ave. Bridge, this st. was sedately lined with mansions like Cyrus Hal! Mc-
Connlck EL at No.675. (30) 40 E. Erie St., College of Surgeons (O.wks.). (31)
50 E. Erie St., John B. Murpny Memu Auditorium. (32) Superior & State Sts., Holy
Name Cathedral (Cath.). (33) Wabash Ave. & Huron St., St James Ch. (Episc.).
Chapel of St. Andrew (1913.by Bertram Goodhue). (34) Mich. Ave. & Chestnut St,
Fourth Presb. Ch. (Eng.Goth.by Ralph Adams Cram). (35) 919 N. Mich. Ave.,
Palmolive BIdg. (by Holabird & Root), topped by aluminum tower. (36) Along Lake-
shore Dr. are: Amer. Furniture Mart (1924) & CM. Campus of Northwestern Univ.
(see Evanston below). Montgomery Ward Mem* Bldg. (Tudor Goth.by Jas.Gambte
Rogers), houses oldest medical college in U.S.; Mus. (O) & Lib. (37) Walton PL &
Clark St., Bughouse Sq., near Washington Sq. Pk., oldest pk. in city; dedicated by
donor to free speech. (38) Across pk. on Clark St. is notable Newberry Lib. (O.wks.
est.1887.Sp.Romanes.by Henry I. Cobb); rare items in humanities <fe genealogy,
prints & maps.
(39) LaSalle St & Chi. Ave., Moody Bible Institute (O), where several thousand
students are trained for missionary serv. (interdenom.); founded in 1889 by Dwight
L. Moody, evangelist. (40) 618 W. Chi. Ave., Montgomery Ward & Co. (O.tours on
appl.), one of world's largest mail-order houses. (41) Along L. bet. North & Foster
Aves., Lincoln Pk. (f.boat.pic.playfields), city's largest. Notable Statue of Abr. Lin-
coln (1887.by Saint-Gaudens). La Sale Mon. (1889.by Jacques de la Laing) Gari-
baldi Mon. (1901.by Gherardi). U. S. Grant Mon. (1891.by Rebisso). Altgeld Mon.
(1915.by Borglum). (42) Zoological Gardens (O.yr.round). Eugene Field Mem.
(1920.by Ed. McCartan). Benj% Franklin Mon. (1896.by Rich. Parks). (43) N. of
Zoo, Lincoln Pk. Conservatory (O.free). Bates Fountain (1887.by Saint-Gaudens &
MacMonnies). (44) 1600 North, CM. Hist Soc. Mus, (O.free.wks.Sun.sm.fee); series
of 38 period rooms. (45) Clark St., bet. Ogden & Armitage Aves., ChL Acad. of
Sciences Mus. (O.free.l893Jtal.Ren.by Patton & Fisher). (46) 1121 N. Leavitt St,
Russian Holy Trinity Cathedral (Gr.Orth.); noteworthy icons. (47) Sheffield Ave.
& Melrose St., Viking Temple, serving Swedish neighborhood. (48) Webster &
Sheffield Aves., DePaul Univ. (Cath.coedfounded 1898). Adm. Bldg. (Mod.Goth.).
St. Vincenf s Ch. (Romanes.). (49) Halsted St & Belden Ave., Presb." TheoL Semi-
nary, founded in 1829 & endowed by Cyrus McCormick. Virginia Lib.; exhibits
from missions. (50) Broadway & Brompton Aves., Win. Booth Mem. College (1914.
Tudor Goth.by Holabird & Roche), Salvation Army sch. occupying Tilt mansion.
On Clark St. (N) are (51) Wrigley Field, home of ChL's Cubs & (52) Graceland
Cemetery, in which are Getty & Ryerson Tombs (by Louis Sullivan). N. of Lincoln
Pk. on lakeshore are 2 outstanding Cath. schs. (53) Mundelein College (women)
was founded at instigation of Cardinal Mundelein, 1930. College Bldg. (by J.W.
McCarthy & Nairne Fisher). (54) Loyola Univ. (men), founded 1879 by Jesuit order,
acquired beautiful lakeshore campus in 1922; recently purchased site for $12,000,-
000 medical & dental school. Elizabeth M. Cudahy Mem. Lib. (Mod.Romanes.by
A.N.Rebori); incunabula & rare Jesuit items.
PTS. OF INT. NORTHWEST & WEST SIDE: N. Branch threads heavily indus-
trialized sec., then flows (N) among pks., fors. & suburban villages; several colleges,
large high schs., housing projects, hospitals & sanitoria in area. Sec. W. & S. of Loop
was once great melting pot of Old World neighborhoods. Hull H. & other settle-
ments are here. (55) 400 W. Madison St., Daily News Bldg. (1929.by Holabird &
Roche). (56) Canal St. bet. Adams St & Jackson Blvd., Union Sta. (1926.by Graham,
Anderson, Probst & White). (57) Canal & Van Buren Sts., Post Office (1934.by Gra-
ham, Anderson, Probst & White), largest in world. (58) 538 De Koven St., Site of
O'Leary Barn, where Fire of 1871 began. (59) 800 S. Halsted St., Hull H. (O),
founded by Jane Addams in 1889, one of 1st in U.S. Labor Mus. Benedict Art
Gallery. Jane Addams Study. (60) Adams & Des Plaines Sts., St Patrick's Ch.
(Cath. 1896), oldest ch. edifice in Chi.; fine windows by Thos. O'Shaughnessy. (61)
Des Plaines & Randolph Sts., Site of Hayinarket Bombing (1886). (62) Randolph
St. bet Des Plaines & Sangamon Sts., Farmers' Market; to N., Fulton St Market
522 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
(63) Grand Ave. & Morgan St., Chi. Commons (est.1894), settlement where fore-
runner of "Survey" was published. (64) 1400 Augusta Blvd., Northwestern Univ.
Settlement (O), in Polish neighborhood; founded in 1891. (65) Augusta Blvd. &
Sacramento Ave., Humboldt Pk., one of city's most beautiful; notable sculptures.
(66) Central Pk. Ave. & Madison St., Garfield Pk. (summer & winter recr.facils.),
with world-famous Conserv. (O.yr.round.4 maj.shows). (67) Central Ave. & Jackson
Blvd., Columbus Pk., landscaped in prairie style. (68) Ogden Ave. & Washington &
Ashland Blvds., Union Pk., where May Day parade traditionally starts; Haymarket
Riot Mon. (69) Madison St. & Damen Ave., Lewis Institute, 4-yr. college founded
in 1896; Psychological Mus. (O.est 1937). (70) Madison & Honore St., Chi. Stadium,
where F. D. Roosevelt was 1st nominated for Presidency. (71) Bounded by Congress,
Taylor & Wood Sts. & Wolcott Ave., Medical Center (O.appL), incl. Cook Cty.
Hospital & Sch. of Nursing; Loyola Univ. Sch. of Med., Univ. of 111. College of
Med. & Dept of Pub. Welfare bldgs. (72) Bet. 14th & 16th Sts., Morgan St. &
Racine Ave., Old S. Water St Market, largest in U.S. (73) Homan Ave. & Arthing-
ton St., Sears, Roebuck & Co. (tours), hqs. of world's largest mail-order house. (74)
Roosevelt Rd. & Sacramento Ave., Douglas Pk., scene of Orthodox Jewish New
Year ceremonial. (75) 3500 Douglas Blvd., Jewish People's Institute (O), social &
educ. center. (76) 3448 Douglas Blvd., Hebrew Theol. College for Orthodox rabbis
& leaders; noteworthy lib. (77) 26th St & Western & Blue I. Ayes., Internat Har-
vester Co. (O.appL), successor to Cyrus McCormick's works built in 1847. (78) E.
end of Damen Ave. Bridge, Marquette Mem., mahogany cross comm. place where
Father Marquette made camp, 1674-75.
PTS. OF INT. SOUTH SIDE: Extending beyond Calumet R., this area cont.
through interlocking communities to edge of Calumet cities of Indiana (see). Along
lakeshore & in wooded suburbs are many of CM.'s most beautiful Hs. Inland area
is welter of industrial plants, stockyards & RR. yds. Black Belt, from 16th to 67th
St., is a city in itself, where hundreds of thousands of Negroes live in area of about
6 sq. miles. In industrial area are Polish, Czechoslovak, & other communities, incl.
Irish neighborhood described by J. T. Farrell. (79) 1463 S. Wabash Ave., Coliseum,
in which Pres. candidates were nominated before 1932; Wall of Libby Prison is part
of bldg. (80) Mich. Ave. & Cullerton St, in Gold Coast area, Second Presb. Ch.
(1874.by Jas. Renwick); windows by Wm. Morris. (81) Around Cermak Rd. &
Wentworth Ave., Chinatown, 3rd largest in U.S. Chinese City Hall; on 3rd fl. are
Temple Shrine & Hall of Justice (O). (82) Wabash Ave. & 24th St., Quinn Chapel
(org.1847), built by Negro congr. (83) 3300 Fed. St., Armour Institute of Tech-
nology, founded 1892. (84) End of 35th St, Stephen A. Douglas Mon. (1879.by
Leonard Volk), near site of Camp Douglas (Civil War) & tracks of 111. Cent. RR.,
which the "Little Giant" helped to est. Tomb is in base of shaft. (85) 700 Oakwood
Blvd., Abr. Lincoln Center (O.by Frank Lloyd Wright), internat. inter-racial &
inter-religious institution. (86) Halsted St. bet. Pershing Rd. & 47th St., Union
Stock Yards (special train from Indiana Ave. makes loop tours over yards), where
millions of animals are penned until removed to Wilson, Armour or Swift plants
(tours) or shipped to feeders & outside packers. (87) 4630 McDowell Ave., Univ. of
CM. Settlement, founded 1894 by Wm. Rainey Harper, 1st pres. of Univ. (see below).
(88) Cottage Grove Ave. & 49th St, St Xavier College (Cath.women); founded
1912 as successor to academy opened in 1846. (89) Along 51st St. from South Pk.
Way to Cottage Grove Ave., Washington Pk, (pic.swim.recr.facils.), well-equipped
playground for Negro community. (90) On Midway Plaisance, Fountain of Time
(by Lorado Taft). (91) Plaisance, Midway of Columbian Exposition, conns, pk. with
wooded Jackson Pk. (f.boatswim.pic.sports facils.boat harbor). At N. end is (92)
Mus. of Science & Industry (O.restaurant), housed in reconstruction of Exposition's
Fine Arts Bldg. (by Chas. Atwood). Exhibits incl. machinery of farming, bldg.,
mining (sm.fee), communication, travel, welding & other work; theater & lib. (93)
96th St. & Longwood Dr., in Ridge Pk. Fieldhouse, Vanderpoel Mem. Art Gallery
(O.free). (94) E., around L. Calumet, is Pullman, model town built 1881 by Geo. M.
Pullman for his employees. After epochal strike of 1894, Pullman Co. was denied
by 111. Supreme Ct. the right to lease to its workers, & town bldgs. were sold. (95)
Along lake front at E. 89th St., Carnegie-Ill* Steel Corp. Works (O.appL).
(96) Univ. of Chicago. Campus covers 100 as. along N. side of Midway, with 85
Goth, bldgs. in several quadrangles. City's 1st univ. was in operation 1857-86 on
land donated by Stephen A. Douglas. In 1889 the Assoc. Bapt Educ. Soc. took
TRIPS OUT OF CHICAGO 523
action for est of a new college, & $1,000,000 was pledged, $600,000 by John D.
Rockefeller. Marshall Field donated land, & Univ. of Chi. was incorporated 1890.
Win. Rainey Harper, Yale Univ. Prof, of Hebrew, was 1st pres. & assembled
notable faculty, & Rockefeller subscribed another $1,000,000 to implement his
plans. Univ. is one of country's leading institutions in influence & scholarship, as
well as one of its largest; adm. through 4 Divisions Humanities, BioL, Phys. &
Social Sciences; 6 professional schools; & Univ. College. On 59th St. at Dorchester
Ave. is Internal H. (1932.Holabird & Roche). Facing 59th St., Ida Noyes Hall (1916.
Tudor Gottuby Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge), women's clubh. Rockefeller Mem.
Chapel (nonsectby Bertram Goodhue), striking adaptation of Goth, cathedral; Laura
Spelman Rockefeller Carillon. In same block are President's H., College Bldg.,
Lexington Hall & Breasted Hall (1931. by Mayers, Murray & Phillip), named for the
late Jas. H. Breasted (1865-1935), archaeologist, author & for many yrs. director
of Oriental Institute, which has treasures of ancient civilizations. In block N., bet.
57th & 58th St., CM. Theol. Seminary (coed.), affiliated with Univ.'s Divinity Sch.;
founded by Congr. Ch. in 1855. Among seminary bldgs. (1928.by H.H.Riddle) are
Lawson Tower, Clarence Sidney Funk Cloisters, Thorndike Hilton Mem. Chapel &
Graham Taylor Hall, (E) is (affiliated) Meadville Tfaeol. Seminary, founded in
1844. Main quadrangle occupies 4 blocks with entrance at Mitchell Tower, copied
from Magdalen College, & HntcMnson Hall. Other bldgs. of Tower Group (1903.
by Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge) line sunken garden of Hutchinson Ct. Rosenwald
Hall; geol. & geographical mus. Walker Mus. (O.wks.), outstanding paleontological
center. Harper Mem. Lib. (O.wks.), one of great libs, of world.
TRIPS OUT OF CHICAGO
I. CHICAGO (S) to MOMENCE. 52. Stl
Via: Calumet Pk,, Harvey & Chicago Heights.
Stl follows old Hubbard Trl. (see) through industrial centers, spreading suburbs &
aborted subdivisions. 15.5. CALUMET PK. At 13635 Western Ave. is main packing
plant of Libby, McNeil & Libby (O.appL). 16.5. RTVERDALE. 19. HARVEY,
industrial center promoted in 1890's by T. W. Harvey, lumberman. 20.5., J. with
US6 (see). 23. WASHINGTON PK. RACE TRACK. (Aug-Sept). Adj. pk. is Home-
wood, platted 1852. 23.5. GLENWOOD MANUAL TRAINING SCH. (O), institu-
tional farm & village for underprivileged boys, on edge of Valparaiso Moraine. On
Moraine is CHI. HEIGHTS 28.; large steel, glass & other plants (O.appl.). L with
US30 (see). Sank Trl. For. Preserve (piacamp.) 33. CRETE. Lincoln Field Race
Tracks (Sept.). 40. BEECHER, shipping pt for farm area. 50.5. ST. JUDE'S SEM-
INARY (Cath.O.Sun.& holidays). 52. MOMENCE, old town on Kankakee R., once
stopping place on Hubbard Trl.
n. CHICAGO (SW) to JOLIET. 40. US66
Via: Cicero, Berwyn, (Brookfield Zoo), Lyons & Stateville.
US66 follows Jackson Blvd. to J. with Ogden Ave., on which it angles (SW) paral-
leling Des Plaines R. 7. CICERO, independent industrial city of some 70,000 pop. Of
100 or more industrial plants, Western Electric Co., Cermak Rd. & Cicero Ave.,
is largest. Al Capone had hqs. in Cicero & made town notorious until 1931. Haw-
thorne Race Track (Sept-Oct). 9. BERWYN, large & almost wholly residential
town. Just (W) is J. with Harlem Ave. on which US66 turns (S) for short distance,
then (SW) on Joliet Rd. across watershed. 12.5., J. with 1st Ave., on which, (N) 2 m ,
is Chi. Zoological Pk. (pic.), one of largest in U.S. Ancient L. plain sweeps gradually
(W) up to Valparaiso Moraine, which extends almost to Joliet L. Chi., ancestor of
L. Mich., was formed bet. this ridge & retreating ice sheet, & beautiful L. reg. was
thus created. 36. STATEVBLLE, on US66A, modern penitentiary & prison farm.
40. JOLIET (see US30).
BQL Loop tour on US34 & S165 (W) to AURORA & return on St31 & US30 Alt. 85.
Via: Cicero, La Grange, (Downers Grove), Naperville, Batavia & Wheaton.
Trip runs through rolling country of Du Page Cty., sett, more than 100 yrs. ago &
still delightfully rural, with Gr. Rev. farrnhs., sm. wooden chs. in severely Goth,
style, & only 4 mfg. centers. 0. CHICAGO. US34 is united with US66 (see Trip II)
as far as J. with St.42A. 11. LYONS, near place of portage for Marquette & Jolliet.
524 TRIPS OUT OF CHICAGO
13.5. LA GRANGE. J. with US45 (see). 21.5. DOWNERS GROVE (1832), the
pioneers' 1st "island in the midst of prairie." Downer MODU, on grave of Pierce
Downer, 1st settler. 23.5. LISLE* J. with St53.
SIDE TRIP: On St.53 (N) l m to Morton Arboretum (O.free), est. by Jay Morton, son of
founder of Arbor Day.
29. NAJPERVUXE, oldest town in Du Page Cty. Most of pop. is native born,
with many of German ancestry. KroeMer Mfg. Co. Plant (tours on appl.), est. in
1887; one of world's largest makers of upholstered furniture. Evangelical Theo-
logical Seminary, est. in 1873, affiliated with Northwestern Univ. (see). North
Centra! College, founded as Plainfield College in 1861. Old Main (1870 & 1890).
New York EL (1849). Mrs. Bailey Hobson's H. (O.appl.l830's), home of wife of
town's 1st settler. Trip follows St65 (W) to AURORA at 38., J. with US30 (see).
Return trip turns (N) on St.31 (parallel to US30). 45. MOOSEHEART, children's
community maintained by L.O.O.M. (grounds O.guides), run by the young people;
hospital, research labs., bank, auditorium. 47. BATAVIA, one of earliest settle-
ments after Black Hawk War; many Hs. of limestone that once made it the
"Quarry City." City bldgs. are on island in Fox R. Near city are Riverbank Labs.
(acoustical). 50. GENEYA, attractive town spreading across Fox R.; many Gr.
Rev. bldgs. J. with US30 Alt., over which trip cont.
SIDE TRIP: On St.31 (N) 2^ from J. is St. Charles, long est, community in recr. area.
Potawatomie Pfc. (boatswim.pic J.& other facils.); amphitheater & scenic drives.
61. On US30 Alt. WHEATON, seat of Wheaton College & Theosophical Society
center & birthpl. of Judge Elbert Gary (see). Town's 1st settlers were the Wheaton
bros. in 1838. Wheaton College was org. as 111. Institute in 1838 by Wesleyan
Meth. ch.; reorg. in 1860 under Jonathan Blanchard; accredited, nonsect, liberal
arts college, with high standards. Blanchard Hall (Vict.Goth.org. 1854). Theosoph-
ical Soc* Temple (O.wks.by LK.Pond); interpretative murals by R. B. Farley;
notable lib. On Cty. Rd. (S) is Warrenvffle (sett 1832). Col. Warren H. (1834.Gr.
Rev.). Albright Gallery (O.Sun.aft.l850's), in old ch. bought by A. E. Albright,
painter, in 1920's. Adj. are studios of his artist sons: Ivan L., & Marvin M. (Zsissly).
65.5. (N. of hy.) GLEN ELLYN & LOMBARD. Lombard Ch. (1869), typical
"Amer. Goth." in wood, with vertical siding. Lilacia Pk.; annual festival. In Glen
Ellya are Stacy's Tavern (N.O.I 837.Gr.Rev.) & Meifa. Meeting H. (1839.Gr.Rev.).
68. J. with St.83. Beyond J. is Rd leading (N) to Elmhurst (sett.1837), largest center
in cty. (through RR. & bus conns, accoms.). Elmhwrst College, coed, liberal arts
sen. founded 1871. Orig. Main Hall & Music Hall. US30 Alt. cont. (E) on Roosevelt
Rd. to lakeshore, at 85,
IV. CHICAGO (W) to ELGIN, 38. US20
Via: Oak Park, River Forest, Maywood & Melrose Park.
Trip follows City 20 from Michigan Blvd. (W) on Washington Blvd. to city limits.
10. OAK PIC, world's largest village (pop.c.65,000). Some of Frank Lloyd Wright's
most characteristic houses are here & in near-by River Forest. At 210 Forest Ave.,
Thomas H., in prairie style. In Blue Parrot Patio, 1120 Westgate Ave., is Celebrity
Room, with silhouettes of Wright's finest bldgs. Lake & Grove St., Unity Temple
(1905.by Wright), spireless monolith in concrete. First Congr. Ch. (by Norman S.
Patton); Biblical Mus. 621 Garfield Blvd., Oak Pk. Conservatory (O.free.chrysanthe-
mum show, Nov.Dec.). RIVER FOREST, beautiful suburb developed around old
Thatcher Sta., on Chi. & N.W. RR. At Chi. Ave. & Thatcher St., Thatcher's Woods,
former lands of D. G. Thatcher. Trailside Mus. of Nat Hist. (O.free) occupies
Thatcher H. (1856). At Division & Bonnie Brae Sts. are yellow-brick bldgs. of
Concordia Teachers College (Luth.); good lib. Forest Ave. & Division St., Rosary
College (Cath.), liberal arts sch. for women, housed in fine Goth, bldgs. (by Ralph
Adams Cram.). Division St at Harlem Ave., Dominican House of Studies, seminary.
12* MAYWOOD, good-sized industrial town. 14.5. J. with US20 (see). Trip angles
(NW) through dairy country. 20.5. ADDISON, German Luth. center for more than
100 yrs. Near ONTAMOVUXE, 30., is DL Pet Cemetery. 36. ELGIN (see), indus-
trial center on Fox R.
V. CHICAGO (W) & (N) to WIS. LINE. 65. City 12, US12.
Via: Park Ridge, Des Plaines, L. Zurich, Wauconda, Fox L., Chain O' Lakes St. Pk. &
Richmond.
TRIPS OUT OF CHICAGO 525
City 12 follows Mich. Blvd. & Lake Shore Dr. to I. with Foster Ave., then W. on
Foster Ave. 17. PARK RIDGE, large suburb among wooded hills. Trip cont. (NW)
through great summer playground among glacial Ls. in Fox R. valley. 21.5. City 12
unites with US12 just N. of DBS FLAINES (sett. 1830's.). Anneal Meth. summer
camp (hotel & cotts.). 37.5. L. ZURICH. Popular resort village is on E. shore, 54.
FOX LAKE, resort village (bathh.pic.grounds.dance halls.cottages.restaurants).
Chain-C^-Lakes St. Pk. (f .boathunt.bathh.pic.camp.sports facils.), one of major recr.
areas of Midwest. Among largest Ls. are Fox, Grass, Pistakee, Nippersink & L.
Catherine. 59. SPRING GROVE FISH HATCHERY (O). 64. RICHMOND, re-
sort village; sett. 1837. 65. WIS. LINE.
YL CHI. (N) to WIS. LINE (Kenosha). 53. St.42,
Via: Evanston, Wilmette, Kenilworth, Winnetka, Glencoe, Highland Park, Lake Forest,
N. Chicago, Waukegan & Zion.
St.42 is lakeshore drive through beautiful suburbs & pks. & past Mundelein College
& Loyola Univ. (see Chi. North Side above).
12. EVANSTON
901 Davis St., Chi. & N.W. Ry.; 909 Church St., Chi., Milwaukee RR.; 79 W. Monroe
St., N. Shore Line. 1201 Central St., Evanston Bus Co. Community golf course &
(daily fee) clubs. Northwestern Univ. & Children's theaters. Annual North Shore art-
ists* exhibit at Art Center. Info.: 519 Davis St., C. of C.
Evanston is home of Northwestern Univ. & Nat College of Education & the nat.
hqs. of W.C.T.U. Adj. CM., it has noticeably different character, distinguished by
wide, shady, uniformly lighted sts. & lake frontage given over to pks., beaches &
private estates. Industries are restricted to well-defined areas. In 1674 Father Mar-
quette stopped in harbor at present Grosse Pt, & 1st settlement was made here in
1854. A yr. later, Northwestern Univ. was opened, & village named in honor of
John Evans, a trustee.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 1703 Orrington Ave., Pub. Lib. (1904); Hist Soc. Mus. & Art
Center. (2) 1730 Chi. Ave., Frances E. Willard H. (O.free), now a rnus., was family
home of famous Temperance leader. Hqs. of W.C.T.U. are in brick bldg. to rear.
(3) Grosse Point Lighth. (N.O.I 865). (4) 2770 Sheridan Rd., Nat College of Edu-
cation (est.1886), accredited 4-yr. college giving training for teaching & parenthood;
cooperates with Chi. social agencies. Harrison Hall houses well-equipped Children's
Sch. & 3 libs. incl. Lib. of Childhood. (5) Haven St., opp. Northwestern Univ.,
Seabury-Westera Theol. Seminary (Episa), created in 1933 as union of Seabury
Divinity Sch. (Faribault, Minn.1858) & Western Theol. Seminary (Chi.1883). Col-
lege bldgs. (1929.Goth.) incl. Anderson Mem. ChapeL Hibbard Oriental & Gregory
Mem. Libs* Foot of Garrett PL bet. Willard PL & Tech. Institute (see below),
Garrett Biblical Institute, graduate (Meth.Episc.) theological school, founded 1855.
(6) L. Mich, shore, bet Clark & Lincoln Sts., Northwestern Univ., on campus of 75
as. with 84 bldgs.; one of leading institutions of higher education in U.S. It was est
1851 as nonsectarian college, although its founders Grant Goodrich, Dr. John
Evans & Orrington Lunt were of Meth. faith. Evanston College for Ladies,
founded in 1871, with Frances E. Willard as pres., was absorbed by Univ. North-
western incl. Technological Institute, Grad, Sch., College of Liberal Arts, Schs. of
Commerce, Journalism, Speech, Education & Music, on Evanston campus; & in
Chi., Medical & Dental Schs., Sch. of Law & Univ. College. On James A. Patten
Campus (N): Technological Institute (tours. 1942), largest bldg. on campus; gift of
W. P. Murphy. Men's Quadrangle. Patten Gymnasium, dedicated 1940. Dyche
Stadium is (W) on Central St. Dearborn Observatory (O.Fri.night), on lakefront;
has equipment (1863) from old Univ. of Chi. Howes Mem. Chapel (O. early Eng.
Goth). On Milton H. Wilson Campus (S): Lunt Bldg. (1893), gift of a founder.
Deering Lib. (by J.G.Rogers), beautiful limestone & marble bldg. in style of King's
College; coll. of World War II underground publications of Denmark, Greece <&
Norway. Univ. Hal! (1869), with clock tower (1879). Annie May Swift HalL
Mineralogfcal Lab. (O.). Old College (1855). Fisk Hall (Romanes. 1898), former
Evanston Acad. From S. campus (W) are Women's Quadrangles, Scott Hall, social
center, & Sch. of Music.
Bordering Evanston (N) is Wilmette, largest N. shore community. Outstanding pt
of int as Baha'i House of Worship (by Louis Bourgeois); cornerstone laid in 1912,
inter, to be completed by 1953. This graceful, 9-sided temple will be surrounded
52$ EAST ST. LOUIS, ILLINOIS
by college, hospital & other bldgs. Architecture & ornament (designed by Bourgeois)
symbolize basic beliefs unity of religion, cooperation with scientific & social or-
ganizations; world federal gov.; equal opportunity; destruction of divisive prejudices.
First Baha'i temple was built in Caucasus by Persian colony in 1890's. The WUmette
nat. temple is only one in America. 20. KENELWORTH. Graves of Eugene & Mrs.
Field, in churchyard of Holy Comforter Ch. (Episc.), 333 Warwick Rd. 22. WIN-
NETKA, large & attractive suburb, inc. 1869; became widely known for experiment
in publ. schools designed to teach children self -gov. At 584 Lincoln St. is Hadley
Correspondence Sch. for the Blind. Another village with progressive sch. system is
GLENCOE, 25. Large residential suburb of HIGHLAND PK., 29., began with
stagecoach tavern (1834). Ravinia Pk. (S), once an amusement pk., is now scene
of Ravinia Music Festival (July-Aug.). 32. FORT SHERIDAN, used in Sp.-Amer.
War; permanent unit of Fifth Army Area. 35. LAKE FOREST, college town &
wealthy residential suburb. Sheridan Rd. & Deerpath Ave., Lake Forest College,
ranking coed., nonsect, liberal arts college; chartered in 1857 under Presb. auspices.
College Hal! (1878.remod.), orig. bldg.; Reid Mem. Lib. (1889) & Chapel; Durand
Commons & Plaza (1907-08). Across Sheridan Rd. is Presb. Ch. (1871), org. in
1859. 360 Deerpath Ave., Pub. Lib.; won Craftsmanship Award in 1931. Westleigh
& Sheridan Rds., Barat College of the Sacred Heart (Cath.), liberal arts college for
women. Fine red-stone College Bldg. (1904) stands in midst of 45-a. wooded campus.
40. GREAT LAKES NAVAL TRAINING STA. (O.), one of largest in U.S. Be-
yond is industrial suburb of N. CHICAGO. Along L. is Foss Pk. (summer camp
sites). 43. WAUKEGAN, mfg. center with busy harbor; on site of Ind. village. N.
is Dunes Pk. (playgrounds.pic.camp.sm.fee); on Chi. & N.W. RR. Flora of special
int. 50* ZION, founded in 1901 by John Alex. Dowie, organizer of Christian Cath.
Apostolic Ch. Lace, cement & other factories were est by W. G. Voliva, who suc-
ceeded Dowie. At first a typically theocratic community, Zion has been modernized
but still enforces fairly strict blue laws. Annual Passion Play. Zion H. & Zion
Admu Bldg. t on Elijah Ave. St.42 crosses dairy, reg. of which Zion & WESTHROP
HARBOR, 52., are centers. 53. ELL.-WIS. LINE.
E. ST. LOUIS ILLINOIS
14 Missouri Ave., Relay (RR). Depot. 505 Missouri Aye., Greyhound Bus Sta. Off St.3
(S) 2m from city, Curtiss Airport. (See also St. Louis, Mo.), Good accoms. & recr.
facils. Info.: C. of C., Spivey Bldg.
East St. Louis, important meat-packing & mfg. center, is surrounded by smaller
industrial suburbs of big city across R. Reg. is assoc. with Geo. Rogers Clark, who
took possession of Northwest during Rev. Bet. Cahokia at outskirts & downriver
Kaskaskia were trading post & fts., Fr. missions & settlements, taken by Brit, in
1763 & then conquered by Clark ("Washington of the West") in 1778, by tact
instead of bloodshed.
TRIPS OUT OF EAST ST. LOUIS
I. E. ST. LOUIS (S) to FT. KASKASKIA ST. PK. 57. St.38 Cty. Rd.
Via: Cahokia & Ft. Chartres St. Pk. St.3 crosses Amer. Bottom where Fr. colonists
made 1st settlements in st. & created civilized life in the wilderness, making friends
with Inds. & dealing prosperously in fur. 3.5. CAHOKIA POWER PLANT (O.appl.).
4. CAHOKIA, an islet in the industrial sea; oldest town in 111., home of ultramodern
Parks College. In 1698 Seminary of Foreign Missions est. mission here among
Tamaroa Inds., & Cahokia remained only Miss. Valley settlement not under Jesuit
jurisdiction. After ft. passed to Brit, in 1765, the Cahokians were undisturbed in
their way of life. When 30 of Clark's Kentuckians & a multitude of Fr. who had
taken oath of allegiance arrived at Cahokia one summer day in 1788, the ft. was
surrendered without a shot being fired. When the Brit & Ind. allies attacked Sp.
city of St Louis in 1780, Clark crossed R. from Cahokia to aid Don Fernande de
Leyba. There is evidence that Terese de Leyba, the Gov.'s sister, was the 1 woman
loved by the leader of the Big Knives. She went back to Spain, & entered a convent,
where she died 2 yrs. after Clark's death (1818). In 1795, Cahokia became seat of
cty. covering about three-quarters of what is now 111. PTS. OF INT.: Cahokia Cth.
St Mem. (O.restaurantl760.by Francois Saucier). It was used as cth, 1793-1814, &
TRIPS OUT OF EAST ST. LOUIS 527
then as saloon. From St. Louis World's Fair in 1904, it was moved to Jackson PL,
Chicago; then, in 1939, brought back to orig. site & faithfully rest., with vertical-log
walls, falling eaves & veranda. At J. of St.3 & St 157, Cfa. of the Holy Family (1799),
oldest ch. in 111. Near-by is handsome new ch. & Old Caliokia Cemetery. E. of Ch.,
Jarrot Mansion (O.c.l800.Col.), oldest brick H. in 111. Across hy., Parks College of
Aeronautical Technology, called "Harvard of the Air." Est. as private sch. in 1927,
it is oldest Federally-approved aviation college in U.S. (1928) &, in 1946, it became
college of St. Louis Univ. (see).
8,5. DUPO (Prairie du Pont). 15. COLUMBIA, an attractive German settlement
25. LEMENS. J. with Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (S) 11^ to Renault, named for director of mining in John Law's
Mississippi Bubble (1718-20) scheme, aimed to pay off Fr. nat debt by exploiting La. Terr.
Disappointed in dreams of gold & silver, the expedition became a colony with several hun-
dred Santo Domingo Negroes, brought be Renault
42. RUMA. J. with Stl55.
SIDE TRIP: On St.155 (SW) 7m to Prairie Du Socher, founded in 1720's by Law's Fr.
colonists, llm Fort Chartres St. Pk. (pic,facils.mus.), on Miss. R., on site of last ft. in N.
Amer. to fly Fr. flag. The 1st Fort du Chartres was wooden stockade built in 1720 & rebuilt
in 1727. In 1753-56, tile famous engineer, Vauban, built great stone stronghold, pride of
New France. In 1765 it became Ft. Cavendish, seat of Brit. gov. in 111. country until 1772.
Gateway & combined Chapel & Guardh. are reconstructed & orig. Powder Magazine
restored.
55.5. J. with Rd. leading 1.5 m (W) to Ft Kaskaskia St Pk. (pic.facils.). Kaskaskia,
one of principal Fr. settlements & 1st capital of 111., was destroyed when Miss. R.
changed its course & overflowed neck of land bet. it & Kaskaskia R. Kaskaskia today
lies bet. old & new channels, the only part of 111. W. of the great R. Earthworks of
ft. are on crest of the bluffs, Garrison Mil Cemetery & Pierre Menard H. (O.I 802.
Fr.Col.), at foot of the hill. Settlement, founded in 1703, petitioned for protection
during Fr. & Ind. War, & palisaded ft. was built In 1765 the Fr. destroyed it rather
than turn ft. over to Brit.
Geo. Rogers Clark, born (1752) in Va., was 2nd of 10 children. Five of the brothers
were Rev. officers, & Wm., the youngest, shared fame of Meriwether Lewis. At 19,
the tall, red-haired, dark-eyed Virginian took up land in Ky. & gained a following.
Ky. had always been neutral ground for all tribes, & the Inds. resented the white
settlers. Clark saw necessity for defense of the frontier <&, in 1776, influenced Va.
Assembly to org. Kty Cty. & aid the frontier. Clark conceived daring plan of pos-
sessing Fr. key fts. in Miss. Valley Cahokia, Kaskaskia & Vincennes (see Indiana)
& eventually, Detroit (see Mich.). In summer of 1778, he had 175 frontiersmen,
scouts & Ind. fighters under ruthless discipline on Corn I. (see Ky.). The men set out
on June 24, 1778, marching single file over wilderness trls., each man with hunting
knife, hatchet & rifle. On evening of July 4th, they arrived at Kaskaskia, & within
a few minutes the ft. was taken peacefully. The Fr. awoke to find the dreaded Big
Knives in their village, but Clark's handling was notable for sagacity & tact, & he
could announce that France was supporting the Rev. The Kaskaskians joined in the
march on Cahokia (see above). Father Gibault carried the news to Vincennes, which
was "captured without an American present." Clark's dealing with the Inds. in
particular reveals his extraordinary flair for leadership. The Meadow Inds., a
vagrant band, tried to surprise him in his Cahokia hqs. At the council, Clark or-
dered that the "silly" Inds. who had "tried to catch a bear asleep" should be treated
like squaws. Then the Inds. pleaded with him to smoke the peace pipe. In Feb.
1799, Clark began arduous march to retake Vincennes, which Gen. Hamilton had
recaptured. Clark's men crossed the 111. R., wading for hours in icy water, the Little
Wabash, Embarrass & Big Wabash Rs. to surprise Hamilton. Beyond Vincennes was
Detroit, but "for want of a few men," due to bankruptcy of Va.'s treasury, Clark
was denied that victory. Neither he nor his men had been paid, & his lands were
mortgaged to finance expeditions. After the Kentuckians were defeated at Blue
Licks, Gov. Benj. Harrison censured Clark & demanded vouchers so that accounts
could be settled. The auditor could find no vouchers. Under Jas. Wilkinson (see),
the adventurer-soldier who had been in Conway Cabel against Washington, an anti-
Clark campaign labeled the great frontiersman a marauder, cheat & drunkard.
Clark's career was at an end. The Va. Assembly, in 1812, presented him witn annual
pension of $400. Half-paralyzed & old at 56, Clark died at Locust Grove, in Feb.,
528 TRIPS OUT OF EAST ST. LOUIS
1818. Nearly 100 yrs. later, in 1913, more than 2,000 vouchers were found among
old documents in Lib. of Congress, Clark's name was cleared of reproach & a mem.
unveiled in Charlottesville (see Va.), where he was born. The noted Draper Coll. of
Clark material is in lib. of Wis. St. Hist. Coll. (see Wis.).
H. E. ST. LOUIS (E) to LEBANON. 22. US50.
Via: Grand Marais St. Pk. & French Village. Trip follows W. end of Trace Rd.,
from Louisville, Ky., through Vincennes, Ind. to Cahokia. At E. edge of town is J.
with Kings Hy. which runs (S) l m to Grand Marais St Pk. (pic.swim.), improved
recr. area with several Ls., riding stables & trls. 6. FRENCH VILLAGE, remains of
old settlement 11. J. with SU59.
SIDE TRIP: On St.159 (S) 5*a to Belleville, industrial center on bluffs at edge of Amer.
Bottom. Town site was platted in 1814, but large German pop. dates from development of
coal fields in 1830's. Has many brick Hs., buSt when town was brickmaking center 100
yrs. ago. In vie. is Scott Field, hqs. of Air Forces Tech. Sch.
18. JOHN MASON FECK MEM. (st. pic. ground), on site of Rock Spring Seminary,
1st institution of higher learning in 111.; founded by Bapt. missionary in 1827, it is
now Shurtleff College, in Alton (see below). 22. LEBANON, early 19th cent, town;
home of McKendree College, oldest Meth. college in Middle West, founded by
pioneers in 1 828 as Lebanon Seminary; on beautiful campus in highest part of town.
Old Main (1850). Mermaid Inn (N.O.1830), where Lincoln, Dickens & other noted
travelers stopped.
HL E. ST. LOUIS (E) to GREENVILLE. 40. US40
Via: Cahokia Mounds St. Pk. 4. FAIRMONT CITY, industrial suburb; large
Mexican pop. 6.5. CAHOKIA MOUNDS ST. PIC, (mus.camp.pic.refreshments.
facils.) around Great Cahokia Mound & 80 or more smaller earthworks. Cahokia
Mound, usually called Monks Mound because of Trappist monastery that stood at
base (1809-13), is largest orig. earthwork in U.S., covering more than 13-a. base of
Great Pyramid of Cheops. In form of truncated pyramid, it rises by 4 terraces to
100'. The village, of which this was center, extended over site of E. St. Louis & as
far as Collinsville Bluffs. In Mus. are exhibits of handiwork of these agricultural
people. L. CahoMa fills pit from which clay & gumbo were taken to build mounds.
11.5. COLLINSVILLE, coal-mining & mfg. center; founded in 1817 by 5 Collins
bros. from Conn. Collins H. (1821). Blum Mfg. Plant (O), where cowbells have been
made by hand since 1880. Miners' Institute, built in 1917 by local United Mine
Workers, is labor center, with theater. 19.5. TROY, small mining center. Farther E.,
US40 enters dairy reg. 31.5. HIGHLAND, dairy center on Looking Glass Prairie;
sett, in 1830's by Swiss. Wicks Organ Co. is noted for technical improvements. 50.
GREENVILLE, seat of Bond Cty. & home of Greenville College; also home of
Pet Milk Co. (O.appl.) & other manufacturers. Rbt. Ingersoll, freethinker, lived
in Greenville for several yrs. while his father occupied Congr. pulpit. Greenville
College, liberal arts sen. under Free Meth. Ch., occupies site & orig. bldg. of earlier
Almira College for Women. On St. 140 is Greenville City Pk. (pic.camp.boatf.),
around L. Greenville.
IV. E. ST. LOUIS (NW) to PERE MARQUETTE ST. PK. 50. US67 Alt & StlOO.
Via: (Venice), Madison, Granite City, Hartford, E. Alton, Alton, Grafton. A little
W. of hy. are industrial suburbs of National City & Venice, est. in 1 804; conn, with
St. Louis by McKinley Bridge (toll). Below bridge is Kerr L, Negro community. Bet.
Venice & National City is Brooklyn, another Negro community. 6.5. MADISON,
2nd largest of group of industrial suburbs, is a steel town on banks of Miss. R. 8.
GRANITE CITY, largest of group, named for its chief product Granite City Steel
Works & Commonwealth Steel Mills (N.O.) are near center of town. Beyond this
industrialized area lie acres of cornfields in black, fertile soil protected against flood.
19. HARTFORD, sm. settlement around large tannery, at edge of another industrial
belt where sm. communities cluster around Shell & Standard Oil refineries. 22.5.
LATON. Western Cartridge Co. (CXappl.).
SIDE TRIP: On St.159 (E) 8m to Edwardsville, named for Ninian Edwards, Terr. Gov.
when town was platted, 1813. Jas. Gillham, 1st settler, came c.1800, & soon many S. Caro-
linians followed. Coal mining became chief industry, as it is now. Cty. Hist. Soc, Mus.
(O.appl.) in Cth.; Ind. & pioneer relics.
26.5. ALTON, seat of Shurtleff College & an important industrial center in Miss.
Valley. A few miles (NW) is confluence of Mo. & Miss. Rs. Bus. dist. spreads along
ROCK ISLAND AND MOLINE 529
R. where steamboats collected freight at one of leading 19th cent ports. Back among
the hills are fine residential areas, with many Hs. capped by lookouts, from which
merchants watched R. traffic. Close to R. are shacks & tiny gardens of many Negroes
& foreign-born residents. The 1st white settler was a Frenchman in late 18th cent
In 1837, several early settlements were inc. as Alton. One of leading plants is Owen-
jQlinois Glass Co. Alton is famed as home of Elijah Lovejoy who fought lonely
battle against slavery. Born at Albion, Me., in 1802, he went to St. Louis, Mo., as
Congr. minister in 1 827, became devoted to abolitionist cause & left pulpit to edit
the 'Times." In 1833, the "Observer" appeared, devoted to emancipation. In 1835,
public sentiment forced Lovejoy to move to Alton, where "Observer" cont. until
Aug., 1837. His native moderation changed to passionate denunciation of the "whip
of the republican task master." Three times his presses were destroyed by mobs, &
3 times his friends rallied to his aid. Stubbornly he ordered a 4th press. An armed
mob fired the wareh. & shot Lovejoy as he came from the bldg. On his grave in
local cemetery is written (in Latin): "Here lies Lovejoy. Spare bim now that he is
buried." Last of Lincoln-Douglas debates was held in Alton.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Broadway & Washington Sts., Owen-niinois Glass Co. (O), one
of largest of its kind in world. Power plant & various shops are housed in walls of
translucent glass. (2) End of Monument Ave., at entrance to Cemetery, Elijah Love-
joy Mon. (1897). (3) Foot of Market St., Site of Lincoln-Douglas Debate, Oct. 15,
1858. (4) In N. Alton is Confed. Soldiers* Cemetery, where victims of 1863 smallpox
epidemic are buried. (5) College & Seminary Aves., Shurtleff College, granting B.A.
degrees in liberal arts & music & offering pre-professional courses. Dr. Benj. Shurt-
leff, of Boston, was a principal benefactor. Academic Hall (1832). (6) 2 m (N) on
Still, Monticello College, liberal arts college & sch. for girls; founded in 1853 by
Benj. Godfrey, Cape Cod seaman.
Trip cont. (W) from Alton on StlOO. 38.5. J. with dirt Rd. which runs (S) 4 m to
Principia College, liberal arts, coed. sch. for children of Christian Scientists. Bldgs.
(Goth.) are arranged as in a village, with College Chapel spire (Wren style) rising
among the trees. St.100 cont (W) from J. to GRAFTON, meeting of 111. & Miss. Rs.
52. PERE MARQUETTE ST. PK. (lodge.guest houses.group camp.boatdock.f.
boat.swim.pic.), st's largest pk. Trailside Mus. McAdams Peak (lookout). Quitt
Peak, highest in pk.
ROCK ISLAND & MOLINE
Quad Cities area incl. Rock Island, Moline, East Moline & the larger city of Daven-
port, Iowa (see). The 111. cities have developed largely on peninsula bet. Rock R. &
the Miss. R., which flows (W) past their industrial & bus. dists. On the island of
Rock L, in the Miss., is large U.S. Arsenal.
Through RR. & bus conns, in Rock I. & Moline. Moline Airport, ?m (SE) on US150.
Good accoms. & recr. facils. incl. muru swim, pool & pub. golf courses. Annual Pow
Wow (Labor Day wk. end) in Black Hawk St Pk. (see below). Info.: Moline Assoc. of
Com., 5th Ave. Bldg.; Rock I. C. of C., Ft Armstrong Hotel. Miss. R. Bridges: US6
crosses Rock R. into E. Moline & then Miss. R. over Iowa-Ill. Mem. Bridge (toE) to
Bettendorf, Iowa, by-passing downtown Rock I. & Davenport US67 crosses Rock R.
& W. edge of Rock I., then Miss. R. over Centennial Bridge (toll) to J. with US61 in
Davenport. Gov. Bridge (fee) conn. Rock I., U.S. Arsenal & Davenport. Some distance
(S) & (W) of metrop. area, St.92 crosses Muscatine Bridge (toll).
Rock I. & Moline are in many ways indistinguishable, & their history & development
have been much the same. Economy of both depends mainly on the Arsenal, one
of largest in U.S., & on tremendous farm-implements industry. E. Moline, much
smaller, is almost wholly industrial. Moline is generally known as "The Plow City"
because of century-old Deere Plow works & plants of Minneapolis-Moline Imple-
ment & Internat Harvester Companies; but Rock I. has Farmall Works of Internat.
Harvester Co. & J. I. Case Co. plants. Augustana College & Black Hawk St Pk.
are within city limits of Rock L, while to Moline belong Prospect & Riverside Pks.
& large airport 111. Inds. had villages on Rock R. (see US20), & it was to them that
Fattier Marquette came in 1673; but about 1680 they were driven out by Fox &
Sauk. In 1815, Col. Geo. Davenport came to Ft Armstrong, & white settlers began
to claim Ind. lands. Among early settlers was a doctor at the ft & his Negro servant,
Dred Scott, who was later to ask for freedom on ground that he had lived in free
530 US 25 & ST. 25 MICHIGAN
states of 111. & Minn. Rock I. Cty. was org. In 1833 & present city named in 1841.
Moline was inc. in 1848. Steamboat era was at its height, & hundreds of boats
docked here. John Deere brought plow factory from Grand Detour in 1847, & in
1855, Rock I. RR. spanned Miss. R, with its 1st RR. bridge, declared a "mammoth
nuisance" by steamboat interests. Abr. Lincoln helped defend the bridge in suit
brought by steamboat companies after several boats had crashed against the piers.
During Civil War, the Arsenal (1862) was used as prison for Confed. soldiers. In
decline of R. traffic & lumbering industry, which had once jammed the Miss., the
Quad cities built up other industries. Their importance as trade centers has grown
rapidly, & Rock I. has also become insurance center, home of Modern Woodmen
of Amer., Royal Neighbors of Amer. & Bituminous Casualty Corp.
PTS. OF INT. IN ROCK L: (1) 5th Ave., Augustana College (coed.) & Theological
Seminary, supported & controlled by Augustana Lutheran Ch.; founded in 1860
in Chicago, moved to Paxton in 1863 & present site in 1875. Sch. of Music is famous
for Augustana Choir. Seminary, on hill to (S), is grad. sch. for Augustana Luth.
Ch. which traces its ancestry back to Ch. of Sweden its name to Confession at
Augsburg (1530), for which "Augustana" is Latin name. Swedish Bell Tower, bell
& timbers from orig. bldg. Old Main (1887). In marble Denkmaxm Mem. Lib. (1910)
are Augustana Hist. Soc. Coll. & Swedish art treasures. (2) 200 13th Ave., Villa de
Chantal, Cath. girls' sch, founded in 1864. (3) Bet. 40th & 44th Sts., on 3rd Ave.,
Internal. Harvester Co. (O.appL), one of world's largest tractor plants. (4) At S.
Limits, on US67 & St.2, Black Hawk St Pk. (f.picann.facils.playfields), on Rock R.
At annual Pow Wow descendants of Sank & Fox warriors gather for tribal dances.
On Watch Tower Hill is Haiiberg MUSL, gift of John H. Hauberg, authority on Ind.
lore; unusual coll. PTS. OF INT. ON I. OF ROCK ISLAND: (5) NW. tip, Ft
Armstrong Blockh. (1816). (6) Near-by is Pier of RR. Bridge (1855). (7) US.
Arsenal (grounds O.), where 19,000 men were employed during World War II.
War Mas. (0). (8) Confed* Prison Cemetery. (9) At W. end, Lock & Dam No. 15.
PTS. OF INT. IN MOLINE: (10) On 3rd Ave., Deere & Co. (O.appL); largest plow
factory in world, one of largest wagon factories, farm implements plant (others in
Moline & E. Moline). (11) 7th Ave. & 18th St, Scottish Rite Cathedral (1929.Mod.
Goth.). (12) 4th Ave., bet. 27th & 34th Sts., Riverside Pk. PTS. OF INT. IN E.
MOLINE: (13) Campbell's L St Pk. (pic.). At SW. end, Site of Battle of Campbell's
L in which Black Hawk was defeated. (14) Interaat Harvester Co. (O.appL).
US 25 & ST. 25 MICHIGAN
MICH.-OHIO LINE (N) to BAY CITY. 267. US25 & St.25
Via: Erie, Monroe, Detroit, Mount Clemens, Muttonville, Port Huron, Lexington,
Harbor Beach, Port Austin, Sebewaing, UnionviUe. US23 (see), US24 & US25 enter
Mick from J. with US20 & US68 in Toledo, O. US24 by-passes Detroit & ends in
Pontiac. On US24 (N) 6m from St. Line is St. Hy. Dept Tourist Info. Lodge. Accoms.
in towns; resorts, inns, cabins, camp sites along route. Airports & landing fields at
intervals. Off US24A near St. line is Erie Marsh St, Game Area.
Sec. 1: MICH.-OHIO LINE to PORT HURON. 108.
US25 runs close to L. Erie, last of Gt. Ls. to be seen by white men. Jolliet sailed
out on long, narrow L. in summer of 1669, & in 1679 La Salle launched the square-
sailed "Griffin." Countless disasters are recorded on this unpredictable water.
Tour follows old military turnpike through Detroit & most thickly pop. sec. of Mich.
15. MONROE (sett.1780. Through RR. & bus conns.), the "Floral City" for 50
yrs.; only Mich, port on L. Erie. Midway bet. great metropolitan centers, it is un-
expectedly tranquil <& charming, with Raisin R. winding across town. Hy. is bordered
by flowers from large nurseries. Hist. Trl. (marked) leads past sites assoc. with War
of 1812, Toledo War, & Gen. Custer (see), who spent early life here. Monroe is
nat center of paperboard & paper-products industry. Col. Francis Navarre's cabin
was built in 1780, & by 1796 an Amer. flag flew over blockh. at "Frenchtown,"
later renamed for Pres. Monroe's inaugural. In War of 1812, Brit, won victory at
Battle of Raisin R., & their savage allies massacred Gen. Winchester's Ky. militia-
men. PTS. OF INT. (sites marked): (1) Massacre Victims Monu, at site of Battle of
Raisin R. (2) Coster Equest Statue (by C.A.Potter), comm. cavalry leader killed in
US 25 & ST. 25 MICHIGAN 531
battle with Sitting Bull (see Montana). (3) Caster H. (4) St Mary's Convent, mother
house of Servants of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, & St Mary's Academy. (5)
First Presb. Ch. (1846), oldest Presb. Ch. in St. Underground Railroad Sta. (6) St
Mary's Ch. (Cath.), founded in 1784. (7) Dgenfritz (1847), Greening (1850) & Mon-
roe Big Tree (nurseries). (8) On La Plaisance Bay, Egyptian Lotus Beds. (9) Sterling
Monroe St Pk.
30. FLAT ROCK (1824). US25 runs bet Lincoln Pk. (E) & AHen Pk. (W) & crosses
MeMndale on Dix Hy. 50. DETROIT (see). 64. ROSEVILLE. 71. MOUNT
CLEMENS (see Detroit Trip VI), nat. known spa. 72. J. with Joy Rd., which leads
(E) 2.5 m to Selfridge Field, U.S. Army Air Base. 74. J. with St.29, Algonquian Trl.
SIDE TRIP: On St.29 (alt. route) (E) & (N) to Marysville & Port Huron. At 5m, New
Baltimore, largest of resort villages of early Fr. origin around Anchor Bay (f.ice-f.h.boat
resort & sports facils.)- In winter, gaily-colored villages of f. shacks spread out on frozen
L. & bay. 8m Anchorville, 10m Fair Haven. Hy. borders St Clafr Flats, marshy delta of
Is. at mouth of St. Clair R. (resorts.h.f.)- In late 19th cent., the "Venice of America" arose
here, with summer homes built on piles & gaily decorated hotels. Something of Gallic wit
& gaiety lingers along these shores, brightening boat & bait signs & wayside taverns. 18***
Algonac St Pk. (f.bath.pic.camp.facils.). 20m Algonac, marine town & shipbuilding center
for 100 yrs. Chris-Craft Plant (O), said to be world's largest builder of speedboats. Ferry
for Harsen's L On Canadian Walpole I. is Ind. Reserv. (handicraft). Ind. men & women
are often seen on hy., carrying sweet-grass baskets & boxes for sale. Many fine Viet. Hs.
28m Marine City, shipbuilding center in sailing-ship & early steamboat days. Midsummer
Mardi Gras, with Outboard Regatta. 34m St. Clair, plotted in 1818; many beautiful Hs.
Diamond Crystal Salt Works. 39m, Gar Wood Boat Works (O.appL). 40m MarysviHe,
lumbering settlement which has become industrial village around boat works, Morton Salt,
Chrysler Corp. & other factories. Adj. Marysville (N) is Port Huron (see below), 44m.
86. MUTTONVILLE (lunchroom.Greyhound Bus stop). Route swings (NE) through
farmlands broken by low hills & wooded ravines. 101. at (N) edge of Marysville
(see above), hy. comes in sight of vividly blue St. Clair R., which it follows (N).
108. PORT HURON
Through RR. & bus conns. Ferry to Sarnia, Ont. Inns & cottages at beaches; cabin &
trlr. camps in vie. Golf &. yacht clubs; f .h.boat facils. Info.: C. of C., Wall & Military
Sts. Port Huron & Mackinac Yacht Races & Bluewater Festival (July).
Port Huron, resort town & trade center for industrial & farm area, is port of entry
from Canada & on short route to Niagara Falls. It is an old lumber town, beautiful
in midsummer with oak & elm trees. Here L. Huron flows into deeply channelled
St. Clair R., one of best places to watch the long steamers. Lightship is stationed at
mouth of R., a danger pt. 2nd only to Detour, on St. Mary's R. (see Sault Ste Marie).
Eight ships were lost with all hands in storm on L. Huron, Nov. 9, 1913, worst
storm in hist, of Gt. Ls. St. Joseph, 2nd ft. in Lower Peninsula, was built here in
1686, & pioneer community was est. on Black R. in 1790. Ft Gratiot replaced old
ft. in 1814, & a boom followed bldg. of Gratiot Turnpike (US25) in 1826. Four
villages united in 1837 to form Port Huron. More than 180 vessels were built here
bet. 1838 & 1908, about half of them sailing ships. In 1891, Port Huron-Sarnia Ry.
Tunnel was opened, 1st electrified underwater tunnel ever built PTS. OF INT.: (1)
Pine Grove Ave. (S) of Elmwood St., Blue Water Internal Bridge (1938.Modjeska
& Masters). (2) Johnstone & 10th St, St Clair RR. Tunnel (1891. electrified 1908).
(3) Wall & 6th Sts., Pub. Lib. (1917) & St Clair Cty. lib., 1st cty. lib. in St; Mus.
(O.appL); W. L. Jenks Room of Mich. Hist (O.appL). (4) 518 Wall St, J. L. Miller
Homestead (1836). (5) State St, near J. with Stone St, Fort Gratiot Men. (6) In
Pine Grove Pk., Edison Boulder, comm. inventor who spent boyhood yrs. here.
SIDE TRIP: to Sarnia, Ont., by ferry, or bus over Internat Bridge (see "How to Enter
Canada" in Detroit sec.). Sarnia is port of entry & industrial center in resort reg. Its
waterfront at night is spectacular with flame stacks & glow of powerhouses of Polymer
Corp., synthetic rubber plant opened in 1943; Imperial Oil Ltd., largest Brit, oil refinery; &
Dow Chemical Plant (plastics).
Sec. 2: PORT HURON to BAY CITY. 159.
US25 runs close to lakeshore around rim of Mich.'s 'Thumb." At c.9., FRANKLIN
Do ROOSEVELT LABOR CENTER & summer camp (C.I.O.). 10. LAKEPORT
ST. PK. (pic.bathh.facils.store.no camp). 12. ST. CLAIR ST. PK. (camp.bathh.facils.
store.boats). 22. LEXINGTON, resort village, in Huron Shores dist 38.5., SANI-
LAC CTY. PK. (pic.camp.bathh.). 63. HARBOR BEACH, one of oldest f . & resort
centers on L.; birthpl. of Frank Murphy, U.S. Supreme Ct. Justice & former Gov.
532 US 12 MICHIGAN
71. PORT HOPE LIGHTH. 89. PORT AUSTIN, another popular resort; J. with
St.53 & St.25, on which tour turns (SW).
SIDE TRIP: On St.53 (S) 17m to Bad Axe, where packing chicory is main industry. (Out-
side of Mich., only Belgium & Holland produce chicory in quantity.)
St.25 is scenic hy. in view of white sand beaches & blue water. 101. ALBERT E.
SLEEPER ST. PK. (f.bathh.store.elec.group camp). 116.5., BAY PORT, on Wild
Fowl Bay, has one of largest f. fleets on Ls. Wallace Stone Co. Quarry, for Bay
Port stone. St.25 crosses sugar-beet country, once an impassable swampland. 128.5.
SEBEWAING (fJi.trlr.camp).
159. BAY CITY
Water & 7th Sts., G.T. RR. Sta.; end of Jackson St., Mich. Central RR. Sta.; 501 Fifth
Ave., P.M. RR. Sta. 1010 Saginaw St., Bus Sta. Tri-city Airport, at Freeland. Good
accoms. Recr. facils. (f.summer & winter sports). Wenonah Beach, Bay City St. Pk., &
Waterworks Pk. Info.: C. of C, in Wenonah Hotel Bldg.; 5th Ave. (E) of Adams St.,
E. Mich. Tourist Assoc. Log Office.
Bay City, on site of Chippewa campground, is one of the great & rough lumber
towns on Saginaw Bay; now largest L. Huron port & industrial center. During
World War II, Defoe Shipbuilding Co. (est. in early 1900's) built mine sweepers,
rescue tugs, & PC's & then applied new methods in construction of destroyer escorts.
Other large industries are Monitor Sugar Co., Industrial Brownhoist Corp., Chev-
rolet Motor Co., Wheeler Shipyard, which built 1st 600' steel freighter; Electric
Auto-Lite Co. & Dow Chemical Co. The 20 m long Saginaw R. (canoe.trl.), with
largest basin in St., has always been of major importance. In 1831, traders were
attracted to site, & by 1860*s, Lower Saginaw Qater Bay City) & other villages had
grown up. In 1870's & 1880's, the great R. cut through a roaring sawmill town bet
piles of logs, while rafts, tugs & barges jammed its channel. Then pine woods vir-
tually vanished. The booming town, mecca of lumberjacks after spring drives, was
threatened, but fishing, beet-sugar refining & coal-mining kept it alive. PTS. OF
INT.: (1) Water St., Defoe Sfaipbidg. Co. (2) 700 Belinda St., Aladdin Plant, makers
of ready-cut Hs. (3) SW. city limits, Monitor Sugar Refinery, largest in eastern U.S.
(4) Center Ave. & Jackson St, Pub. Lib.; file (1872-84) of "Lumberman's Gazette."
(5) 515 Center Ave., Bay Cty. Bldg.; Hist. Mus. (O.wks.). (6) Water & 24th Sts.,
Tremble H. (1836). (7) On Saginaw R. (N), Wenonah Pk., one of finest in Mich. J.
with US23 (see) & St.47, which leads (N) 5 m to Bay City St Pk.
US 12 MICHIGAN
DETROIT (W) to MICEL-IND. LINE. 220. US12
Via: Plymouth, Ann Arbor, Jackson, Albion, Marshall, Battle Creek, Galesburg,
Kalamazoo, Paw Paw, Hartford, St Joseph-Benton Harbor, New Buffalo. US 112 (see)
parallels route (S).
US 12 follows route of stagecoach through several large cities & educational centers,
among farmlands, orchards & villages of long standing. At (W) end is important fruit
belt
Sec. 1: DETROIT to BATTLE CREEK. 116.
0. DETROIT (see). 23. PLYMOUTH. Sett in 1820's by New Engenders. World's
Lsugest Air-Rifle Factory.
37. ANN ARBOR
Foot of State St., Mich. Central RR. Sta. W. Huron St, off Main St., Bus Sta. Willow
Run Airport (see Detroit Trip II). Accoms.; pic. & camp sites in vie.; res9rts around
many Ls. Lectures, plays, concerts & other events sponsored by Univ. & civic groups.
May Festival (music), Dramatic Festival (May-June), Repertory Players (summer),
Oratorical Lecture Series (Feb.-Mar.). Info.: C. of C. (see also Univ. of Mich, below).
Ann Arbor is delightful residential & college town in Huron R. valley, surrounded
by gently sloping, forested hills. Univ. of Mich, campus occupies (E) half of town.
Pub. Lib., sch. system & community affairs reflect tone set by one of oldest & largest
of st universities. In Feb. 1824, John & Ann Allen, Dan. Cross & Elisha & Mary
Ann Rumsey built log cabins in "oak opening" on Huron R. In 1837, the village
became seat of st univ., & by 1870's it was a thriving city. At 1405 Pontiac Rd.,
Beckley H. (1842-1845.Gr.Rev.rest), used by Underground RR. Bet Cedar Dr. &
Broadway, Riverside Pk. (pic.sports facils.golf course). Univ. of Mich. The "Cathole-
US 12 MICHIGAN 533
pistemiad, or Univ. of Mich." was est in Detroit by Terr. Legislature in 1817, largely
due to Father Gabriel Richard (see Detroit). In 1837 the struggling academy was
reorg. by St. legislature & given to Ann Arbor. Under Jas. Bumll Angell (father of
JJELAngell, of Yale Univ.), pres. 1871-1909, Ann Arbor took high rank among
st universities. Instruction is given in 14 sens. & colleges. Bet. 1909 & 1925, more
than 20 major bldgs. were erected on & around the old campus. During World War
31, Univ. carried out large Gov.-sponsored programs & shared in atomic energy &
other research projects. Most recent is aeronautical research program at Willow
Run (see Detroit Trip n). Info.: 221 Angell Hall; Business Office, Room 1, Univ.
HaU. PTS. OF INT. OLD CAMPUS: (1) Alumni Mem. Hall (1909.Class.by Donald-
son & Meier); art coll. (2) Angell Hall (1924.Albert Kahn), adm. bldg. (3) Lib. Bldg.
(1918.Kahn); rare items in Drama, Ornithology, Economics & Hist, of Science colls.
(4) W. L. Clements Lib. of Amer. Hist (1923.Ital.Ren.by Kahn); noted coll. of books,
mss. & maps. (5) Presidenf s EL (1841.Gr.Rev.), oldest bldg. (6) Univ. Hall, incl. Main
Bldg. (1 873. FnRen.), Mason Hall 1841) & S. Wing (1849). (7) On W. side of State St
Mich. Union (1919.by Pond & Pond), men's clubh. (N) OF CAMPUS: (8) Hill
Auditorium (1913.by Kahn & Ernest Wilby); Stearns Coll. of Musical Instruments
(O.appl.). (9) Burton Mem. Tower (1937.Kahn); Chas. Baird Carillon (O.exc.Sat).
(10) Rackham Bldg. (O.guide.l937.mod.Class.by Smith,Hinchman & Grylls); Sch.
of Grad. Studies. (11) Mich. League (1929.by Pond & Pond), women's clubh. &
theater. (S) OF CAMPUS: (12) Law Quadrangle (1 924-3 3.Coll.Goth.by York &
Sawyer), notable group. (13) Hospital Group, in hilly (NE) sec. (14) Facing Hospital,
Observatory (O.Mon.-Fri.& special nights); facils. for astronomical physics, in
which Univ. ranks high.
51. J. with St.92.
SIDE TRIP: On St.92 (N) c.lm to Chelsea, sm. mfg. town. St.92 cent. (NW) bet. Hnckney
Recr. Area & Waterloo Recr. Area, largest in St
73. JACKSON
Through RR. & bus conns. Reynolds Airport Fine city & cry. pks. (pic.camp.cottages.
resorts). Rose Show (mid- June). Info.: New Center Bldg., C. of C.; in Hotel Otsego,
Tourist & Convention Bureau.
Jackson, birthpl. of Republican party, is cut by Grand R. & is seat of lake-studded
Jackson Cty. Industrial plants on E. side have drawn large & racially complex
pop. City was inc. in Feb., 1854, & named for Pres. Jackson. On Franklin & 2nd
Sts., Republican Party Site, where 5,000 citizens officially formed & named party
on July 6, 1854. W. Michigan Ave. & Wildwood St., Civil War Mem. (1903.by
Lorado Taft). On St. 147 (N) 4 m is St Prison of S. Mich., one of world's largest penal
institutions. 93. ALBION, home of Albion College (Meth.Episc.), coed., liberal arts;
one of oldest denom. schs. in St. (1833). Chapel & North Hall (neo-Class.), orig.
bldgs.; Stockwell Mem. Lib. & HaU of Fine Arts (1938.neo-Class.).
116. BATTLE CREEK
Main & Hall Sts., G.T. RR. Sta.; W. Van Buren St at Capital Ave., Mich. Cent RR.
Sta. Arcade Bldg., 51 W. Jackson St., Union Bus Sta. W. EL Kellogg Airport. Good
accoms. Recr. facils. in numerous pks. Horse Show (May or June). Dahlia Club Show
(Sept.). Maneuvers at Ft. Custer. Info.: C. of C. & Auto Club of Mich., both on N.
McCamly St.
US12 follows Mich. Ave. across <f Health Food City," at confluence of Kalamazoo
& Battle Creek Rs. Beyond R. (N) are fine residential areas; many Ls. & resorts in
vie. Preeminent among many industries are world-famous Kellogg, Post & other
cereal plants. Town (sett 1831) is named for very small battle (1824) bet. 2 members
of surveying party & 2 Inds. who resented being pushed out of their sugar camps.
In 1855, Battle Creek was made hqs. of Seventh Day Adventist Ch. Western Health
Reform Institute (now Sanitarium), 1st of many est. by that ch., was founded in
1866, & in 1876 put in charge of Dr. John H. Kellogg, who perfected the flaked
cereal. C. W. Post, inventor of Postum (1894), was another leading manufacturer.
Characteristic of Battle Creek are the magnificent Youth Bldg., hqs. of Civic Recr.
Assoc., & the Ann J. Kellogg Sch., with facils. for handicapped children. PTS. OF
INT.: (1) Washington Ave. & Champion St, Batfie Creek Sanitarium (O.Mon.-Fri
1927.mod.Ren.). (2) Near Sanitarium, Percy Jones Gen. Hospital, U.S. War Dept
(3) Michigan Ave. & 20th St, Leila Arboretum. Khigmsm Mem. Mus. of Nat His-
tory (O) has 125,000 specimens from all over world. (4) Near-by on W. Michigan
Ave., Barney Tavern (1848.N.O.). (5) W. Michigan Ave. & McCamly St, Post
534 US 12 MICHIGAN
TaTcm (O); C. W. Post Art Coll. (6) W. Van Buren & McCamly Sts., Kellogg Audi-
toraim. (7) In Oak Hill Cemetery, Grave of Sojourner Troth (1790-1883), famous
Negro woman who crusaded against slavery. (8) Cliff & Academy Sts., Post Prod-
ucts, incl. orig. plant (1895). (9) Kellogg Co. Plant (O); 40-a. pk. & botanical garden.
(10) 5^ (W), Ft Caster, U.S. Army Post. KeUogg Field, Army Air Base. (11) (NW)
10** is Gull L., popular resort. (13) On Wintergreen L. (E), Kellogg Bird Sanctuary
(O.daytime).
Sec. 2: BATTLE CREEK to MICH.-IND. LINE. 104.
Route enters reg. of prosperous farms. 14. GAUESBURG, Many early bldgs. 19.
COMSTOCK, site of Fourierist colony in 1840's.
23. KALAMAZOO
Willard St. bet. Rose & Burdick Sts., Mich. Central RR, Sta.; Pitcher St. & Mich. Ave.,
Penn. RR. Sta. Portage St. & Mich. Ave., Greyhound Bus Sta.; N. Rose & Water Sts.,
for other lines. Mun. Airport (S) 3m. Good accoms.; tourist homer. & resorts in vie.
Recr. facils. in numerous pks. Symphony Orchestra. Civic Players. Pansy Festival (Ap.);
Community Concert Series. Info.: C. of C., 316 Commerce Bldg.
Kalamazoo was founded as trading post on "the boiling river" in 1823. Besides
being important trade & industrial center & one of great paper-making cities, it is
also a rural market edged with celery fields & a college town with f ew ^skyscrapers
& many trees, an exasperating downtown dist. of alley-streets & impressive suburbs.
It has an active Institute of Arts, civic orchestra & theater & 3 colleges. Celery-
growing was begun in 1850's by Jas. Taylor, from Scotland, & in late 19th cent,
Kalamazoo Paper Co. was est., & several large stove companies, iron industries &
pharmaceutical factories. PTS. OF INT.: (1) Civic Center, surrounding Bronson
Pk. Civic Auditorium (1931.by Aymar Embury II), home of Civic Theater &
Orchestra. Site of Lincoln's Address in Aug. 1856. On S. Rose St. are: (2) Pub. Lib.;
(3) Natural Hist Mus. (O.wks.), notable visual education exhibit; (4) Institute of
Arts (O.wks.& some evenings). (5) Academy St. (W) of Oakland Dr., Kalamazoo
College, one of oldest in St. (1833); Bapt. controlled but nondenorn.; fine bldgs. in
Georg. style. (6) Western Mich. College of Education (1903), on 200-a. campus
along Davis St.; granting degree in arts, music & sciences; facils. for graduate study.
Kleinstueck Wildlife Preserve. (7) Nazareth College & Academy. Kalamazoo is at
J. with US131 & St.43, which leads (W) 7.5 m to Wolf L. St Fish Hatchery (O).
39.5. PAW PAW, center of leading grape & wine-producing reg. Grape Festival.
Wineries (O). Paw Paw Bait Co. Plant (0). Cth. (1841). 62. COLOMA, canning
center & resort
73. BETNTON HARB0R-ST. JOSEPH
Through RR. & bus conns. Airport. Steamer to Chicago in season. Good hotels (mineral
baths); tourist pks., cottages & resorts in vie. Biverview, Silver Beach (amusement),
House of David & Waterworks Pks. Blossom Festival (May). Yacht Races. Info.: C, of
C. in each city.
The 2 ports are surrounded by as. of orchards, traditionally descended from Johnny
Appleseed's (see) trees. Missionaries & explorers knew the marshy site at R.'s mouth,
& La Salle built Ft. Miami here in 17th cent. Another ft. & mission, built on site
in 1700, was destroyed by Chief Pontiac in 1763. A settlement begun in 1831 soon
moved back from, sandy shore to site of St. Joseph, & later settlers crossed R. &
built town which outstripped its neighbor. Benton Harbor became widely known
after House of David colony was est. in 1903.
PTS. OF INT., ST. JOSEPH: In Lake Front Pk., Site of Old Ft. Here also is Ben
King Mon. to poet who wrote "The Old St. Joe" in honor of his birthpL Old Lighth.
(1859) & Mem. Hall. BENTON HARBOR: Market & 9th Sts., Muii. Fruit Market^
largest non-citrus fruit market in world. (2) At (E) limits, House of David; amuse-
ment pk. with miniature trains, pic. groves, handsome bldgs. & outdoor theater.
Benj. Franklin Purnell brought his "Israelites" to Benton Harbor in 1903 & est.
religious colony which became exceedingly prosperous. King Ben died in 1927
before he could learn that he had been acquitted in scandalous trial. After waiting
some time for promised resurrection, his followers carried the King's embalmed
body to Diamond House. E. of H. of David, Israelite City of David, founded by
Queen Mary, PurnelTs widow. At J. with US31 (see). 80. TOURIST CAMP oper-
ated by H. of David. Rd. leads (E) to Stevensville, lakeshore resort center, in wild-
est dune country. 87, BRIDCMAN, among flower-covered dunes. Warren Dunes
US 112 MICHIGAN 535
St. Pk. (no camp.good beaches). 93.5. HARBERT, for many years home of Carl
Sandburg. 100. NEW BUFFALO (large group camps in vie.). St Line Rest Lodge
& Info. Serv. J. with St.60-US112 (see). 104. OTCH.-IND. ONE.
US 112 MICHIGAN
DETROIT to NEW BUFFALO. 210. US112
Via: Dearborn, Inkster, Wayne, Ypsilanti, Saline, Clinton, Somerset, Jonesvflle, Quincy,
Coldwater, Sturgis, White Pigeon & Niles.
US 1 1 2 follows Great Sauk TrL which in 1 825 became Terr. Rd. Rich soil & smoothly
flowing Rs. attracted the Algonquin long before white men came, but few sites
remain & their famous garden beds have disappeared. Route is notable for pastoral
charm of farmlands & lovely Irish Hills & L. reg. (pic.camp,cabins.resorts.f.h.swim.
boat).
0. DETROIT (see). US112 becomes loop expressway to Willow Run Airport. 9.5.
DEARBORN. 17. WAYNE. Hy. forks (S). Byp.112 becomes part of expressway,
while US112 cont (W). 29.5. YPSILANTI (see Detroit Trip II for this sec.). 40.
SALINE, at edge of Irish Hills, which extend some 30^ (W). 52. CLINTON. St.
John's Ch. (Episc.1835). J. with St.52 & cty. Rd.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On Rd. (E) 5m to Macon, center of Ford's soybean acreage. Pennington
Sch. (1851), bought by Henry Ford & rest, with old-fashioned furniture. Oil is pressed
from soybeans in 19th cent. Gristmill on Saline R.
(B) On St.52 (S) 5m to Tecumseh, an "oak opening" sett, in 1830's. St. Peter's Ch. (Episc.
1832.Doric portico), oldest Episc. ch. (W) of Alleghenies continuously in usej built by
Rev. Wm. Lyster with aid of Pres. Jackson, Dan. Webster & others.
61. W. J. HAYES ST. PK. (pic.camp.trLstore.community bldg.bathh.), 400 as. in
Irish Hills, incl. 90-a. Round L. & Wamplers L. (resorts.f.winter sports.boats). Two
Observ. Towers (sm.fee). Near pk. (W) is St Joseph's Ch. (Cath. 1854-63). On Stll
(N) is Manchester, supply center. 65. CAMBRIDGE JUNCTION. At J. with St.50
is Mich/s most famous inn, Walker Tavern (1832), where Dan. Webster, Jas. Feni-
more Cooper, Harriet Martineau & "Priest" Lyster were guests. In Walker Brick
Tavern (1856) are orig. taproom, barber shop & kitchen, 72. J. with US127 & US223.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US223 (SW) to Devil's L., resort center. 20m Adrian, prosperous
trade center. Adrian College, liberal arts; under Meth. Conference; org. in 1845 as Mich,
Union College from 2 older schs. & moved to "Maple City" in 1859. In College Row are
older bldgs. Civic Auditorium (1939), property of city. St Joseph's Academy & Siena
Heights College (women), well-known (Cath.) schools.
US112 unites with US127 to 74. SOMERSET CENTER. 88. JONESVBLLE, at
hist, ford on St. Joseph R. Grace Ch. (Episc. 1844); orig. walnut furniture. Munro
H. (1840.Class.Rev.). J. with St.99.
SIDE TRIP: On St.99 (SE) 5m to Hillsdale, in scenic area with many Ls. (f.h.swim.boat.
winter sports). Campus of Hillsdale College covers 60 as. on St. Joseph R.; liberal arts;
coed. sch. founded by Freewill Baptists in 1844. Slayton Arboretum. B. A. Barber Amphi-
theater.
100. QUINCY, at head of 14 m chain of Ls. in great f. & sports reg. 106. COLD-
WATER, named by Inds. for near-by R. & L., largest in chain (good f .camp.resorts.
beaches). In early 1800's a trading post stood on site of Oak Grove Cemetery. Inc.
in 1837, Coldwater grew rapidly; was active Underground RR. sta. St Home &
Training Sch. (Children's Village) is doing excellent work with subnormal children.
Branch County Cth. (19th cent.); Pioneer Mus. J. with US27 (see) & St.86.
SIDE TRIP: On St.86 (W) to Colon, magicians' capital, where Percy Abbott makes &
demonstrates magic apparatus; Magicians* Jamboree (late summer). Sturgeon L., source
of St. Joseph R. (canoe trl. resorts).
118. BRONSON has nat. known plant for making tackle. Jabez Bronson built tav-
ern in 1828 & later used his taproom for court sessions. Liquor was removed to
kitchen. Old Opera H. US112 dips (S) through fertile St Joseph Cty., tilled 1st by
Potawatomi who held 73,000-a. reservation until after Black Hawk War. 134.
STURGIS, ranking high in manufacture of furniture & decorative appliances.
Flower Show. Pet Day Parade. J. with St.78.
SIDE TRIP: On St.78 (N) 8m to J. with St.86. On St.86 (W) 2m to Nottawa, Amish trading
center; apple butter, sausage & other foods for sale.
536 US 16 MICHIGAN
141. US112 passes KLINGER L. (resortcottages.beaches). 147. WHITE PIGEON,
named for Ind. chief who saved settlement from tribal uprising. US112 crosses S.
edge of Cass Cty., known for trout streams, flower gardens, resorts & prehist & hist
sites. 183. NILES (see US31). 203. THREE OAKS, in midst of former Ind. lands.
Chamberlain Mem. Mus.; fine Ind. & pioneer colls. Warren Woods, 320-a. tract of
virgin hardwood. 210. NEW BUFFALO, on L. Mich. L with US12 (see).
US 16 MICHIGAN
DETROIT (W) to MUSHEGON. 185. US16
Via: New Hudson, Brighton, Howell, E. Lansing, Lansing, Portland, Cascade, Grand
Rapids, Fmitport. Good accoms. at short intervals.
Route of US 16 was made by Inds., & pioneer wagons followed the trl. Now broad
lanes of heavy traffic cross center of Mich, through capital city & Grand Rapids,
2nd largest center.
0. DETROIT (see). US16, Grand R. Trl., runs (NW) through St. recr. & resort areas
in lake dist. of Oakland & Livingston ctys. 16. BOTSFORD TAVERN (O.I 836).
19. FARMINGTON, sett, in 1824 by Quakers. 25. NOVI. 32. NEW HUDSON.
(See Detroit Trip V for this sec.) 40. BRIGHTON, pleasant village in midst of 50
or more Ls. Greek Temple H. (1840), at 314 Grand River Ave. Off hy. (SW) 3 is
Brighton Recr. Area. 50. HOWELL (RR,& bus.accoms.), one of country's largest
Holstein cattle markets, is restful town in fine setting on Thompson L., in vie. of
Tyrone Hills & Ind. L. chain. On SU55 (SW) 3 m is St Sanatorium (tuberculosis).
60. FOWLERVHXE (sett.1835), tourist center.
82. E. LANSING & 86. LANSING.
126 N. East St., Union Depot; 1223 S. Washington St., Grand Trunk Sta. 118 S. Grand
Ave., Bus Sta. Airport (NW) 3^ on US16. Hotels & other accoms.; tourist pk. Concerts,
lectures & stage productions, Recr. facils. in numerous pks. Farmers' Week (Jan.-Feb.)
at Mich. St. College. Info.: 202 S. Walnut St., C. of C.; Industrial Bank Bldg., Auto
Club of Mich.
E. Lansing, seat of Mich. St College, merges with Lansing, st capital. The Capitol
dome & 23-story Olds Tower rise above tree-shaded city, like symbols of its hist,
from "capital of the woods" to prosperous industrial, as well as political, center,
Valley is entered by Grand, Sycamore & Red Cedar Rs., & bridges here & there
span the winding streams. E. Lansing has grown up around the college & is entirely
residential. When legislature decided, in 1847, to move capital from Detroit, a
border city, Lansing had a sawmill & a log house in dense for.; but it was given the
honor, tentatively, to settle a long controversy. After coming of Ransom E. Olds
(in 1900*s), maker of one of 1st practical automobiles in U.S., the city's development
was very rapid. Present output from, more than 100 industries, with automotive in
lead, gives Lansing high rank. Also it is commercial & financial center for St.*s rich-
est farm country.
FTS. OF INT. LANSING: (1) Capitol Ave Capitol (1878.Class.Ren.by E.E.
Myers); War Relics Mus, (O.wks.). (2) Washington & Genesee Sts., St Hist Mus.
(O). (3) 124 W. Allegan St., Olds Tower (O.193Lby Hopkins & Dentz). (4) S. Penn-
sylvania Ave., on Red Cedar R., Potter Pk.; Zoo. (5) Among larger industrial plants
are Oldsmobsie Division of G.M., Reo Motors, Inc., & Motor Wheel Corp. The new
Kettering Engine Plant (1948) has been called "engineer's dream," embodying prin-
ciple of progressive machining. Cost, exclusive of bldg., has been estimated at
$15,000,000.
FTS. OF INT. E. LANSING: (1) Harrison Rd. at Marigold Ave., St Police Hqs.
(CXtours). (2) E. Grand River & Michigan Aves., People's Ch. (1923.by W.E.N.
Hunter), interdenom. social & religious center. (3) Grand River Ave. & Abbott St,
Midi. St College, oldest agric. college in U.S., (1855); under control of St Bd. of
Agric. Campus of 160 as. on Red Cedar R. is very attractive; athletic fields, housing
facils. & College Farm on 3,000 as. (S) of R. Of special int are: Quonset Village
of more than 100 housing units; Agric* & Dairy Bldgs.; Union Mem, Bldg. (O.cafe-
teria.l923.wings 1936.adds.1946-47.by Pond,Pond & Martin); College Lib. (1920's.
Coll.Goth.by Edwyn Bowd); Beaumont Mem. Tower (1928.Goth.by Donaldson &
Meier); R. E. Olds Hall of Engineering; Kedbde Chemical Lab. (1927), a beautiful
bldg. Lansing is at J. with US27 (see) & US127.
US 16 MICHIGAN 537
SIDE TRIP: On US127 (SE) 13m to Mason. St. Game Farm in vie.; ringneck pheasants,
Hungarian, partridge & other beautiful wildfowl.
US 16 runs through agric. valley, rising gradually to rolling hills. 120. J. with Rd.
to L. Odessa (resort.).
139. CASCADE, residential suburb. Hy. forks. By-pass US16 runs (S) of Grand
Rapids.
148. GRAND RAPIDS
60-63 Ionia Ave., Union Sta. 239 Michigan St., Grand Trunk RR. Sta, 55 Oakes St.,
(SW) Union Bus Terminal. Fennel Rd., (S) 4m, Grand Rapids Airport. Good accoms,
Mun. Tourist Camp. Many city & cty. pks. Civic Players. Symphony Orchestra. Info.:
Federal Sq. Bldg., C. of C.; Rowe Hotel, W. Mich. Tourist & Resort Assoc. Furniture
Fair (Jan.& June); May Theater Festival; "The Messiah," Calvin College (2nd.wk.in
Dec.).
Grand Rapids, 4t the Furniture City," is 2nd-largest & one of most attractive of Mich,
cities, owing much to its 58 city pks. & 45,000 trees. Around it are hundreds of
small Ls. & trout streams. Educational institutions incl. Calvin College <& Seminary,
Aquinas & Mount Mercy Colleges (Cath.), Jr. College & Univ. of JVftch. Sen. of
Business Adm. (1946). Besides furniture, Grand Rapids produces sticky fly paper,
automatic musical instruments, auditorium seats, gypsum & paper products, carpet
sweepers, food products & chemicals. It is also a ranking printing & lithographing
center. In vie. are highly productive gas & oil wells. Bapt mission was est. on W.
bank of Grand R., 1824-26, & Louis Campau built fur-trading post. Steamboats
began service from Grand Haven in 1837. Stewart Edw. White (1873-1946), who
was born in Grand Rapids, described in 'The Riverman" the heyday of lumbering
on the Grand & Rogue Rs. Furniture industry began in 1858, & gained recognition
at Philadelphia Centennial Exposition (1876). Grand Rapids has largest Dutch pop.
of any city in U.S. & a large Polish settlement
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 427 E. Fulton St. (US16), Furniture Mus. (O.1938). (2) 54 E.
Jefferson Ave., Pub. Mus. (O.free.l940.by Roger Allen), severely functional, win*
dowless bldg. (3) 230 Fulton St., Art Gallery (O.1844.Gr.Rev.). (4) Campau Ave.
& Lyon St., (NW) Civic Auditorium (by Robinson, Campau & Crowe). (5) 24 Foun-
tain St., Fountain St Bapt Chi. (Ital.Ren.by Coolidge & Hodgdon), fine group of
ch., campanile, arcade & parish H. (6) Bostwick Ave, & Library St., Ryerson Pub.
lib. (mod.Ren.by Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge); country's finest coll. on furniture.
(7) 109 Market Ave., Mun. Wholesale Market, one of largest open-air markets in
U.S. (8) Along R. (N) & (S) are some 80 Furniture Factories (O.appL). (9) Franklin
St., bet. Benjamin & Giddings Aves., Calvin College, in red-brick Georg. bldgs.;
liberal arts college under auspices of Christian Reformed Ch. Hekman Mem. Lib.
(10) In Comstock PL, Dwight Lydell St. Fish Hatchery.
177. SPRING L., at end of Grand R.; mineral springs & resort developments.
185. MUSKEGON
586 Western Ave., Pere Mar^uette Depot; Peck & Laketon Sts., Penn. & G.T. RRs.
184 Western Ave., Bus Terminal. Muskegon Cry. Airport, Mun. Airport & Interstate
Seaplane Base. Wis.-Mich. Steamship Co. & G.T.-Penn. Carferries (no autos) to Mil-
waukee, Wis. Concerts. Little Theatre. Resorts around White & Muskegon Ls. Info.:
970-3rd St., C. of C. Nat Convention of Polish societies (spring). West Shore Music
Festival (May). Harvest Festival Winter carnivals.
From marshlands at mouth of Muskegon R., the port of Muskegon, largest on E.
side of L. Mich., extends for more than 5 m along shore. With natural harbor (5~
long L. Muskegon) & sheltering dunes, city has always been important port &, even
ports. Principal manufactures are automotive & foundry products, i
dies, office furniture & billiard tables. Large oil companies operate marine terminals
with capacity approx. 39,000,000 gals. Nicolet stopped here in 1634, & Father Mar-
quette in 1675. Fur-trading began in 1810 & lasted until 1st sawmill was erected,
1837. From Civil War days until late 1880's, Muskegon was "Sawdust Metropolis."
M. M. Quaif e says (in "Lake Michigan"), "A single generation of furious destruction
spanned the rise & fall of Muskegon . . ." Near end of cent, lumbering declined,
& a fire destroyed much of the fabulously wealthy city, but mfg. plants succeeded the
lumber mills.
538 US 10 MICHIGAN
PTS. OF INT.: (1) W. Clay Ave., Hackley Pk.; Soldiers' & Sailors' Mon. (2) Water-
front, West Mich. Mart, one of finest port terminals on L. Mich. (3) Morris St. bet
1st & 2nd Sts., Ind. Burial Ground (1750); St. Supreme Ct. ruling prevents indus-
trialization of site. (4) Clay Ave. & 3rd St., St Paul's Ch. (Episc.1892.Goth.); figures
carved by Alois Lang. (5) 296 Webster Ave., Hackley Art Gallery (O.free.Oct.-Je.);
coll. begun by C. H. Hackley, lumberman, who also gave Pub. Lib., Hackley Pk.,
hospitals, & other large bequests. Paintings by Cranach, Burchfield, Inness, Picasso,
Orozco, & other major artists; sculptures by Lachaise, Manship & others. (6) Adj.
gallery, Hackley Pub. Lib. (1890.Romanes.by Patten & Fisher). (7) Webster Ave.
bet 3rd & 4th Sts., McKinley Mem. (by C.H.Niehaus). (8) Washington Ave. & Jef-
ferson St., Hackley Mem. (by Lorado Taft). (9) In Evergreen Cemetery, Grave of
Jonathan Walker & Mon. raised by Photius Fisk, abolitionist. Walker, who lived
near Muskegon in later life, was Mass, sea captain who was imprisoned & branded
for trying to run slaves to Bahamas. On Mon. is stanza from Whittier's "The Man
with the Branded Hand." (11) On St.20, Muskegon St Pk. Muskegon is at J. with
US31 (see).
US 10 MICHIGAN
DETROIT (NW) & (W) to LUDINGTON. 237. US10
Via: Feradale, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Pontiac, Flint, Saginaw, Midland, Clare,
Reed City & Baldwin. Paralleled by Grand Trunk & P,M. RRs. Accoms. throughout.
Car & Auto Ferry to Manitowoc, Wis., from Ludington.
US 10 follows Woodward Superhy. through automotive centers, then (W) through
former pine belt & central farm area to thinly settled but scenic country along L.
Mich.
Sec. 1: DETROIT to MIDLAND. 117.
0. DETROIT (see). In this sec. are some of Detroit's most attractive suburbs, incl.
Huntington Woods, Birmingham, Cranbrook Foundation & Bloomfield Hills. 25.
PONTIAC, in noted L. dist. (see Detroit Trip HI). Developed recr. areas, incl. Bald
Mt, Rochester-Utica, Pontiac L. & L. Orion (resort).
SIDE TRIP: On St218 (SW) to Walled Lake. Cass L., at (SW) limits; at 3m Orchard Lake,
resort & residential communities. 6m off hy. near Commerce is Dodge Bros. St Pk* No. 5
(pic.camp.store-facils.). 12m WaUed Lake, on L. encircled by natural wall of tree-covered
boulders. On (S) side are popular Dodge Bros. St. Pks. No. 2 & No. 15; good beaches.
30. DRAYTON PLAINS. Large Fish Hatchery (O). On Rd. (E) 2 is L. Angelas,
on which is McMath Hulbert Obserr., of Univ. of Mich. 39. HOLLY ST. RECR.
AREA. Rd. leads (E) c.6 m to Ortonville St Recr. Area (tenttrlr.& group camps).
52. GRAND BLANC, on site of early trading post. J. with cty. Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (E) 14m to Metamora St. Recr. Area. L. Mmnewana.
54. US10 forks. Branch-USlO enters downtown Flint, while US10 cuts across W.
side.
59. FLINT
S. Saginaw & 15th Sts., Grand Trunk RR, Sta.; Beach & Union Sts., Pere Marquette
RR. N. Saginaw & 3rd Ave., Bus Sta. Bislwp Airport, (SW) 4.5m. Good accoms. Golf
& other recr. facils. Symphony orchestra; civic opera. Atwood Stadium. Emancipation
Day (Jan.l) & other events at Negro Civic Center; Folk Festival (June) & other group
festivals. Info.: C. of C. & Automobile Club.
Flint, on Flint R., is Mich.'s 3rd largest city & 2nd to Detroit as automotive center.
Giant factories are spread throughout city around congested downtown area. Mu-
nicipality owns waterworks, airport, fine hospital & lib., sen. & pk. systems. Com-
munity Music Assoc. offers yr.-round program, & Institute of Arts conducts series
of exhibits <& lectures & sch. of art. Mott Foundation has charge of Children's Health
Center, Mott Camp for underprivileged boys & adult recr. & education programs.
Many racial groups & large Negro pop. give rich diversity to civic life. The R.,
named for the flintstone, attracted Chippewa & Potawatomi, then fur traders (1819)
& missionaries. Settlers ventured into the wilderness in 1830's, & tavern & ferry
were est. With lumbering, village expanded & soon became "The Vehicle City,"
making carts & carriages. In 1900, David Buick org. in Detroit the Buick Auto-Vim
& Power Co., which became Buick Mfg. Co., maker of 1st Buick automobile in
1902. A yr. later, co. merged with Flint Wagon Works, & Buick Motor Co. was
US 10 MICHIGAN 539
est. in Flint. W. C. Durant, who shared ownership of several vehicle companies
with Jos. Dallas Dort (see Detroit Trip II), bought out Buick with aid of other Flint
citizens. General Motors Co. was org. by Durant in 1908, & in 1909, he almost
gained control of Ford interests. In 1910, Durant lost control of G. M., partly
because bankers feared his "dashing methods & hairbreadth adventures.'* From
experiments of Louis Chevrolet, which he had backed, Durant built Chevrolet
Motor Co. &, by 1913, had controlling interest in G. M. Durant was Pres. of G. M.
until 1920. Other local leaders were C. S. Mott, C. W. Nash & W. P. Chrysler. An-
other event in city's automotive hist was 1st large-scale sit-down strike, in 1937.
PTS. OF INT.--INDUSTRIAL (O.appl.): (1) Leith St., Brack Motor Co., city's
largest plant. (2) Chevrolet Ave. & Bluff St., Chevrolet Plants. (3) 4300 S. Saginaw
St. & 210 N. Chevrolet Ave., Fisher Body Plants. (4) Harriet St & Industrial Ave.
& at Davison Rd. & Dort Hy., AC Spark Plug Plants. When co. began in 1908,
workers came at 6:30 a.m. on bicycles or in horse-drawn carriages to make spark
plugs for 2-cylinder cars. (5) Industrial Ave., Marvel-Schebler Carburetor Division
of Borg-Warner Corp. (6) Chevrolet & W. 3rd Ave., G. M. Institute. Auditorium,
civic center, & Atwood Stadium. OTHER PTS. OF INT.: (7) 703 Beach St, Old
Vehicles Coll. (O.appl.). (8) Crapo & Kearsley Sts., Flint Jr. College (estl923).
Amer. & Ind. colls, in Mus. (9) Kearsley & Clifford Sts., Pub. Lib. (1905.Ren.).
92. SAGINAW
W. Genessee Ave., near Mich. Ave., N.Y.C. RR. Sta.; Potter St., near Washington Ave.,
P.M. Ry. Sta. 217 Federal Ave., Eastern Mich. Bus Sta. Saginaw Airport, (NE) 2m.
Tri-City Airport, at Freeland. Good accoms. & recr. facils. Tourist camp. Saginaw
Cty. Fair (Sept). Info.: Board of Commerce Bldg.
Saginaw, 4th-largest city & 3rd-largest wholesale market in Mich., is trade center
of industrial & rural valley of Saginaw R., which flows through center of town. It
is an attractive place, with a host of tall old trees, 19th cent, mansions, well-designed
modern bldgs. & numerous bridges. Except for street-corner pumps, few mementoes
of lumbering era remain in town once nationally known for roaring sawmills & R.
choked with logs. In 1818, Louis Campau built a cabin & the council h. where Lewjs
Cass negotiated with Inds. Ft. Saginaw was built in 1822, & Saginaw City inc. in
1857. Along with booming lumber industry, Saginaw developed its large salt de-
posits, coal & graphite, & by 1900, when lumbering began to decline, 70 or more
mfg. plants had been est
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Genessee, Lapeer & Jefferson Aves., Tower Bldg. on which
"Little Jake" Seligman in 1890's erected clock tower & statue of himself, once city's
salient pt. of int. (Copper statue was blown down some yrs. ago). (2) 1315 S. Wash-
ington St, City Hall (1937.Mod.by Macomber & Merrill), of local Bay Port stone.
(3) Jefferson Ave. & Janes St, Hoyt Lib. (1890.Romanes.by Van Brunt & Howe);
notable hist. coll. (4) Ezra Rust Pk. along R.; in center is City Waterworks (Goth.).
(5) Hamilton & Throop Sts., Site of Ind. Treaty, signed in 1819 by Gov. Cass. (6)
301 N. Hamilton St, Ye Olde Musee (O.free) in Schuch Hotel (1868), probably
oldest continuously open tavern in St John P. Schuch*s remarkable coll. incL
10,000 theater programs dating back to 1753 & some 200 Toby jugs. (7) Chevrolet
Grey-Iron Foundry, largest in world. (8) Bean & Grain Elevator, largest in world.
J. with US23 (see).
US10 crosses Sugar Bowl. 107. FREELAND. Tri-City Airport 117. MIDLAND
(accoms-RR.bus.airport). Functional bldgs. show influence of Dow Chemical Co.,
which was est. by the late Dr. H. H. Dow in 1890's, & changed the lumbering vil-
lage into important research center & town of outstanding architectural int. Oil
found during Dow drillings for salt brine has developed into central Mich.'s petro-
leum industry. Hs. & pub. bldgs. are striking in style & construction, many of them
designed by Alden Dow, pupil of Frank Lloyd Wright PTS. OF INT.: W. Main
St, Dow Gardens (O), designed in 1899 by Dr. & Mrs. Dow. Dow Chemical Co.
Plant maintains People's Univ. Main & Fitzhugh Sts., Midland County Cth. (mod.
Tudor.by Bloodgood Tuttle); colored exter. murals (reg. & hist) by Paul Honore.
St. Andrew's Rd., Midland Country Club (by Alden Dow), used as hotel & civic
center.
Sec. 2: MIDLAND to LUDINGTON. 120.
Route cont (NW) across low hills & through cut-over areas (gooxl f.h.). At W. end
of route is Manistee Nat For., popular recr. area, drained by hist. Tittabawassee R.
tributary of Saginaw R., & the Pere Marquette. 8.5., J. with St30, which leads (N)
540 US 23 MICHIGAN
10 m to Edenville, near which, in Tittabawassee R. } is place (now covered by Wixom
Dam) celebrated in "The Jam on Gerry's Rocks," best-known ballad of the North
Woods, sung from Portland, Me., to Portland, Ore. 29. CLARE (community pk.
trlrs.good accoms.RR.& bus). Altitude & pine woods make it favored country for
hay-fever & asthma patients; many streams & abundant wildlife. Near Clare are
important oft & gas fields. J. with US27 (see). 69. REED CITY, prosperous town
with large maple-flooring mill; tourist center. Oil refinery in vie. & 4 of St.'s most
productive oil wells. J. with US131, route to Straits. 77. CHASE, edge of Manistee
Nat For. (piacamp.areas.f.h.winter sports.ranger stas.at White Cloud, Baldwin,
Manistee & Cadillac, hqs. at Muskegon). Chittenden Nursery, at Wellston, often
ships 1,000,000 trees a day to for. crews. In Cadillac Dist. is Mt Caberfae Winter
Sports Area (see). 88. BALDWIN, seat of Lake Cty., on P.M. RR.; popular resort
center.
120. LUDINGTON
RR. & bus conns. Airport at J. of US10 & US31. P.M. RR. Car Ferry to Milwaukee,
Manitowoc & Keewaunee, Wis, Accoms.: All kinds. Golf courses, stables, boat liveries,
summer & winter sports facils. Info.: C. of C.
Ludington, important shipping pt. at mouth of Pere Marquette R. on L. Mich., is
also one of St's hist sites. Rustic cross marks First Grave of Father Marquette (see
St. Ignace, on US2), in pk. bet. Ls. Mich. & Marquette. The long Pere Marquette R
(canoe trl-trout) flows into Marquette L. here. J. with US31 (see) & St. 11 6.
SIDE TRIP: On St.116 (N) 8.5m to Dunes Pk. (f.boatcottages) & Ludington St. Pk.
Inland is Hamlin L. (pike,bass,muskellunge), center of resort colonies.
US 23 MICfflGAN
MICBL-OmO LINE (4 from Toledo, O.) (N) to MACKINAW CITY. 370. US23
Via: Temperance, Dundee, Milan, Ann Arbor, Brighton, Hartland, Flint, Saginaw,
Bay City, Pinconning, Standish, Tawas City, Harrisville, Alpena, (Rogers City), Che-
boygan. Accoms. throughout. Ferry to St. Ignace.
US23 passes comfortable farmsteads in long-settled SE. Mich, From Ann Arbor
(N) are many recr. areas. Tour then follows L. Huron shore, rimming cut-over lands
that have become vast woodland playground.
Sec, 1: OHIO LINE to BAY CITY. 150.
Old-fashioned villages in this sec, suggest their New England origin 21* DUN-
DEE, 31. MILAN, & (W) of US23, Deerfield, Blissfield & Adrian (see). 40. J. with
TJS112 (see). 48. ANN ARBOR (see). In rolling hills of terminal moraine are many
Ls. & marshes. 65. L with US16 (see). 73. J. with St59. Both hys. lead into St. Recr.
Areas. 74.5. HARTLAND, center of Hartland Foundation projects, incl. sch., crafts
shop, lib. & music hall. 86. FENTON, prosperous resort town. J. with St. 87.
SIDE TRIP: On St.87 (E) 5m to HoUy, known locally for its flower gardens. 10^ J. with
US10 (see), which crosses Holly St. Recr. Area, in rugged country of great natural beauty.
112. J. with US10, with which US23 unites to 135. SAGINAW (see US10). 150.
BAY CITY (see US25).
Sec. 2: BAY CITY to MACKINAW CITY. 220.
US23 curves around Saginaw Bay, leaving industrial Mich, behind. L. Huron, 2nd
largest of Gt Ls., was the 1st discovered by white men. Champlain briefly recorded
the great "Freshwater Sea." Saginaw, Au Sable, Thunder Bay & Cheboygan Rs.
(canoe trls.), once lined with sawmills, drain upper half of Lower Peninsula, one
of lumber kingdoms of the world until denuded of its towering pines in late 19th
cent Large areas lie in Huron Nat. For. & scattered st. fors. Along shore are huge
estates, resort villages & camp sites; & inland are sports centers, tourist & trfr.
camps, inns, cottage groups & hotels; bass, perch, pike, trout & muskellunge in
hundreds of Ls. & streams; wild duck, heron, pheasant & grouse in marshlands, &
rabbits, fox, deer, bear & coyote in wilder sees.
20. PINCONNING & STANDISH, 29., trade centers for farm & dairy reg. & good
stopping places (RR.& bus lines.accoms.camp sites). 44. AU GRES, supply center
for hunters, fishermen & summer colony at Pte. Au Gres (tourist pk.boats). 58.
ALABASTER, named for gypsum quarried in vie. since 1870. 64. TAWAS CITY
US 23 MICHIGAN 541
& 66. FORT TAWAS, yr.-round sports centers on Tawas Bay; both, were lumber
towns. Tawas City originated Perch Festival, now held annually (Ap.) in many L.
towns. E. Tawas St Pk. (pic.camp.bathh.f.). Seal Nursery (SW), under U.S. For.
Serv., produces 12,000,000 trees a yr. Huron Nat For. (hqs. in E. Tawas.ranger
stas. at Mack L. & Silver Creek.f.h.swim.boat. winter sports); 770,000 as. of burned
& cut-over lands replanted with red, white & jack pine; 16 campgrounds. From
Tawas (NW) 10 m is Silver Valley, winter-sports area. Au Sable R. flows across for.;
campgrounds (free) at dams in lower R. (pike,bass & bluegills). 80. AU SABLE,
destroyed by fire in 1911, & 81. OSCODA, resort centers. Au Sable R. Dr. leads (W)
c.!5 m from Oscoda to Lumberman's Mon. (RbtAitken), on bluff overlooking R.;
bronze figures of Landlooker, Lumberman & Riverman. 97. HARMSVELLE, resort
center with excellent beach (good f . & h.). St. Fish Hatchery. HarrisvUle St Pk* 112,
J. with Rd. to spring-fed Hubbard L. (ledges.inns.cottages.f .h.).
128. ALPENA
Through RR. & bus conns. Cry. Airport. Accoms. of all types; motor courts, beaches
& camp sites. Boat harbor. Winter sports. Bobcat Hunt Gate JaruO.to pub.). Winter
Carnival. Alpena St For, (f.h.) along Thunder Bay. Info.: C. of C.
Alpena, largest town on L. Huron (N) of Bay City, is business & resort center of
popular Thunder Bay reg. Town was swept by 4 for. fires in early yrs. From 1887,
when Detroit & Mackinac RR. tracks were laid, until pine fors. were exhausted,
the bay shore was lined with sawmills. Limestone quarrying began in 1869 & is
still a leading industry. Thunder Bay R. flows through the city, & Long, Grand &
Hubbard Ls. are in vie.; noted for white-tailed deer & native partridge. At (S)
limits is Michekewis Pk. (bathh.boat livery.pavilion.trlr.camp), scene of Winter
Carnival. Near (E) limits, Mich. Alkali Co.'s Limestone Qiiariy (O), largest in
world.
Picturesque Presque Isle Cty. is considered ideal for relief of hay fever & asthma.
Hy. runs beside Long L. (pike.bass & bluegills). 139. LAKEWOOD. J. with Cty.405.
SIDE TRIP: On Cty.405 (NE) 9m to Grand L. Fire Tower (O). Presque Me P.O. (hoteL
cottages) on NE. shore. Presque Me Lighth. (O.1870) & Tower of Old P. L Lignth. (1841,
by Jeff Davis).
Main tour follows W. shore of Grand L. (f.boats). 160. J. with St.65.
SIDE TRIP: On St.65 (S) 12m (making 4 turns) to Posen, described in Konrad Bercovici's
"On New Shores." On cty. Rd. (NE) are Hawks & Metz. These Polish & German commu-
nities were wiped out in for. fire in early 1900*s. One rescue party was trapped in derailed
train & burned to death.
Beyond J. US23 forks, Branch-US23 running (N) 3 m to Rogers City (through RR.
& bus conns, airport) & adj. Calcite, ranking port for limestone from near-by quar-
ries. At 163. on US23 is J. with St.68, alt route to Rogers City.
SIDE TRIP: On St.68 (W) 24m to Onaway, resort center (hotels.summer homes/tourist
camp.RR.& bus); Ls., waterfalls, sinkholes & lost Rs. in dense woods. St.211 leads (N) 6m
to Onaway St Pk.
164. US23 & Branch-US23 unite. 168. P. F. HOEFT ST. PK. (pic.camp.facils.
bathh.pavilion); trls. around Huron Dune. At c,172., FORTY-MILE FT. LIGHTBL
(O.daytime.1896), 40 m from Straits. Fog horn is heard for miles around. 178. COAST
GUAM) STA. (O.I 878), on Hammond Bay, shelter for many storm-driven ships.
205. CHEBOYGAN
Through RR. & bus conns. Boat serv. to St Ignace, Mackinac I. & Les Cheneaux.
Hotels, cottages, camp sites; winter & summer sports facils. Info.: C. of C.
Cheboygan ("place of entrance"), once a leading lumber town, is seat of cry. known
for abundant wildlife & scenic beauty; f. port, trade center & hqs. for sportsmen.
Short distance from town are Black, Burt & Douglas Ls. (whitefish, muskellunge &
bass), & here begins Inland Water Route (canoe trl.) to Traverse Bay reg. Streets
are lively in season with fishermen, deer hunters & woodsmen in bright-checked
mackinaws & pegged trousers. Snow plows & paper & wood products are leading
industries. Sawdust Pile, 1,000' high, accumulated over 60 yrs. J. with US27 (see),
with which US23 unites past Hardwood St For. (f.h.trlr.camps.cottages).
220. MACKINAW CITY
Terminal of main RR. & bus lines & N-S hys. St. ferry to St. Ignace; cruiser to Mack-
inac I. Airp9rt at Pellston, 20m (S) on US31. Hotels, cottages, camp sites; facils. for
Dimmer & winter sports.
542 US 27 MICHIGAN
The port city to the North Country is a lively place on the Straits, through which
Nicolet paddled in 1634, bringing with him an embroidered robe to wear before
Chinese court Site was familiar to Inds., priests & voyageurs, & fur trader's canoe
was called Mackinaw boat. Ft. Michilimackinac, est. at St. Ignace (1681), was
re-est. on S. shore of Straits in 1715. After fall of New France, Brit traders came.
In 1780-81, Ft was moved to Mackinac I. (see below). Ft. MichilimacMnac St. Pk.
MacMnac L St Pk. (stores.hotels.cottages.no camp.no autos) is reached by ferry
from Mackinaw City & St Ignace; in winter over "ice bridge" by sleigh. Only
motorized vehicle permitted is motor-bobsled (no org. winter sports), but rubber-
tired carriages & basket buggies carry sightseers to hist. & scenic pts. Beyond Mar-
quette Pk., beautiful terraces & gardens rise to Grand Hotel & the old fortress. The
17th-cent. missionaries were probably 1st white men to visit the rocky I. Brit, main-
tained Ft Michilimackinac here from 1781 until Jay Treaty in 1798 & held pos-
session again during War of 1812. John Jacob Astor est. Amer. Fur Co. post in
1817, & until 1830's a wild crowd of "coureurs des bois," adventurers & frontiers-
men held forth in what is now Mich.'s show resort, enjoyed by Southern planters
before Civil War. PTS. OF INT.: Old St Ann's Ch. (1874.parish est.1695); Ft.
Mackinac (reconst); Ft Holmes (1812), on highest pt; Astor Fur Post (O.rest);
Agent's H. (O.1817), sometimes called Rbt Stuart H.; Arch Rock, Sugar Loaf, &
other formations.
US 27 MICHIGAN
&0CH.-IND. LINE (9 from Angola, Ind.) (N) to CHEBOYGAN. 317. US27
Via- Coldwater, Marshall, Olivet, Lansing, St. Johns, Alma, Mount Pleasant, Clare,
Harrison, Houghton Lake, Roscommon, Grayling, Gaylord, Indian River. Accoms.
throughout. Numerous resorts. Airport at (Battle Creek), Lansing & Pellston, near
Cheboygan. US127 roughly parallels route, via Jackson, to Lansing.
Sec. 1: MICEL-IND. LINE to CLARE. 165.
From J. with US20 in Ind., US27 enters reg. of Ls. (5) COLDWATER L.; resort
colonies. 13. COLDWATER (see US112). Near GIRARD, 19., are traces of Ind.
mounds & at TEKONSHA, 24., is Mon. to Chief Tekonquasha. 36. MARSHALL;
fine Hs. of Col. & Civil War periods; one of earliest stops on Terr. Rd. (1812).
Brooks HL (1830*s.Gr.Rev.). J. with US12 (see). 49. OLIVET, home of Olivet
College (Congr.), coed., liberal arts sch. of high standing; founded 1844. Rev. John
Shipherd, founder of Oberlin College (see Ohio), brought small colony by ox-cart
to the hill he had named Olivet. Shipherd died within year. Mather Hall; Mus. (est.
1858). US27 winds among "sugar bushes" (groves of sugar maples) & rich pastures.
59. CHARLOTTE, maple-syrup & sugar center. Bennett Pk. (trlr.camp.). Mem.
Grove & Mon* J. with St.50 & SL78, with which US27 unites (NE).
SIDE TRIP: On St.50 (E) 10^ to Eaton, the "Wool City"; mills (O). In vie. are Veterans
of Foreign Wars Nat Home & Mich. Holiness Assoc. Camp.
66. POTTERVILLE. Great flocks of sheep & herds of purebred cattle & Percheron
horses in countryside. J. with Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (W) 14m to Vermontrille, founded by Vennonters in 1836; orig. ch.
& academy (1843). Maple Sugar Festival (spring).
79. LANSING (see). US27 turns directly (N). 97. ST. JOHNS (G.T. RR. & bus.
accoms.), mfg. town & seat of Clinton Cty., noted pheasant country. In vie. are
Wolverine Stockyard & Clinton Mem. Hospital; grain elevators, cider presses &
creameries. J. with St21.
SIDE TRIP: On St.21 (E) 19m to Owosso (accoms.airportrecr.facils.), former lumber town
on Shiawawassee R.; easy access to pheasant & f. territory. Birthpl. of Jas. O. Curwood &
Thos. E. Dewey, Clubh. of Cty. Conservation Assoc. Curwood's Castle, on riverbank. Off
St47 are Dewey H. & Masonic Mem. Hospital.
120. ITHACA, seat of oil-producing & agric. Gratiot Cty. Ind. Trl. Mon. in Tourist
Pk. 126. Hy. forks.
SIDE TRIP: On US27A (W) 3m to Alma, (RR.& bus.tourist pk. & usual accoms.), center
of oil-producing reg.; mfg. of house-trlrs. is important industry. Alma College (Presb.1887),
coed., liberal arts sch.; degree also in music. Hood Mus.; Mich, bird, Ind. & geological
colls.
US 31 MICHIGAN 543
128. ST. LOUIS (sett!853.RR.& bus conn.), "bugless" town on Pine R. Bottling of
sparkling mineral waters in vie. & manufacture of D.D.T. caused considerable ex-
pansion of small industrial town & resort Mich. Chemical Co. (D.D.T.) Plant 150.
MOUNT PLEASANT, pleasantly modern college town on Cbippewa R.; hqs. of
important oil companies. Good trout streams & hunting fields. Mich. St Home &
Training Sch. (O), originally an Ind. sch. On S. College Ave. are handsome bldgs.
of Central Mich. College of Education (1895); good music dept. 165. CLARE (RR.&
bus), resort city named for Irish cty. because of hills & streams around.
Sec. 2: CLARE to CHEBOYGAN. 152.
US27 runs (N) through pine, poplar & birch woods, past hidden Ls. where fish can be
caught for pic. dinners; resorts & accoms. around tourist centers. 15. HARRISON,
on Budd L. Wilson St Pk.; many Ls. trls. to lumber camps (cabins.camp sites,
boat liveries). Good h. for bear, deer, fox, rabbit & wildcat. J. with St.61.
SIDE TRIP: On St.61 (E) 17m to Gladwin & Gladwin St Pk. (bus.airport.stores.facils.), on
Cedar R. (canoe trl.). Gladwin Game Refuge; Grand Nat. Grouse Trials. Cty. has some
of best f . & h.
39. HOUGHTON L. VILLAGE (RR.& bus.airport), at end of largest inland L. in
St. (hotels.motor courts.cabins.restaurants.stores.golf). Other resort villages are
THE HEIGHTS & PRUDENVTLLE, 44. Good climate for hay fever. Excellent f.
& game h. J. with St.55.
SIDE TRIP: On St.55 (E) 19m to West Branch, supply center for Rifle R. Area (f.h.battu
boat-winter sports). Annual Deer Hunters* Festival; wildcat hunts with trained dogs.
At c.56. (W) of hy., Biggins L. St Pk. at (S) end of startlingly blue for. L. (cabins,
hotels & summer homes). St. For. Nursery, said to be largest coniferous nursery in
world. 59. ROSCOMMON, important tourist center near Huron Nat For. (see
US23). 75. GRAYLING, winter & summer sports capital; supply pt for trips down
Au Sable R. (trout f .canoeing); seat of Crawford Cty. (numerous resorts.). Grayling
is named for native game fish that shared fate of passenger pigeon. Grayling Winter
Recr. Area (snow trains), one of best-equipped in Mid-west.
Tour crosses Middle Branch of Au Sable R. 78. J. with St.93 which turns (NE) 7^
to celebrated Hartwick Pines St Pic. (f.h.pic.camp.facils.stores), incl. 90 as. of virgin
hemlock, white & red pine, last vestige of Lower Peninsula's primeval for. 95.
OTSEGO L. VILLAGE (cty.pk.). Otsego L. St Pk. (f.camp.trh-s.bathh.boats.). 97.
ARBUTUS BEACH, named for exquisite woodlands flower. In spring, pails of the
blossoms are sold along hy. Some of highest land in Lower Peninsula is in Otsego
Cty., crest of long glacial moraine. lj)3. GAYLORD (good accoms.stores), popular
center for hunters & vacationers. Vic. ranks high in potato production. Admirable
country for hik. & winter sports. 111. VANDERBELT. (Rd. leads (E) to Pigeon R.
St For. where elk herds may be seen at dawn & twilight). 122. WOLVERINE,
named for carnivorous weasel that gave Mich, its nickname but probably never
lived here. 132. INDIAN RIVER, at (S) end of lovely Burt L.; summer resort
(good accoms-stores). Near-by are Ind. & Sturgeon Rs. (trout) & Burt L. St Pk. 138.
TOPINABEE, one of oldest resorts in Mich, (hotel.beaches.camp.bus), named for
Potawatomi chief who signed treaty giving up site of Chicago. 149. At (N) end of L.,
J. with St.33, which leads (S) 6* to Aloha St Pk. 152. CHEBOYGAN (see US23).
J. with US23 (see).
US 31 MICHIGAN
MICH.-INIX LINE (6 m from South Bend) (N) to MACKINAW CITY. 356. US31
Via: Niles, St. Joseph-Benton Harbor, South Haven, Saugatuck, Holland, Grand Haven,
Muskegon, Montague-Whitehall, Hart, Ludington, Manistee, Beulah, Interlochen,
Traverse City, Torch L., Charlevoix, Petoskey, Mackinaw City. Good accoms. Ferry
across L. Mich, at several pts.
US31 follows shore of L. Mich, then cuts inland to tip of Lower Peninsula. Scenery
shifts from orchards of fruit belt, past dunes & port cities, through Manistee Nat.
For. & beautiful Traverse Bay Area, to "Holy Old Mackinaw" on the Straits.
544 US 31 MICHIGAN
Sec. 1: MICH.-IND. LINE to J. with US10 E. of LUDINGTON. 166.
US31, united with US33, crosses St. line from J. with US20 in South Bend, Ind. 5.
NILES (good accoms.), old town in St Joseph R. valley over which 4 flags have
rippled: the "fleur-de-lis" in 1697, Brit in 1761, Sp. in 1781 & U.S. in 1783. Along
R. Rd. are Site of Ft St Joseph (1897) & Father Allouez Mem. Cross, near spot
where missionary died in 1689. On Grant St. is Site of Carey Mission, founded in
1 822 by Rev. Isaac McCoy (Bapt). Ring Lardner H. In vie. Beefoe Mint Farm. J. with
US112 (see), St.60, & Red Bud Trl.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.60 (NE) 15m to Cassopolis, famous junction on Underground RR.;
seat of Cass Cty., known for its Ls. (good f.h.) & flower farms.
(B) On Red Bud Trl. (W) 5m to Buchanan. In Oak Ridge Cemetery Jos* Coveney Mon.,
carved in England with atheistic sentiments. 9^ Bear Cave (O.summer.smiee), one of few
ancient tufa formations in Midwest.
13. BERMEN SPRINGS, home of Emmanuel Missionary College (Seventh Day Ad-
ventist); liberal arts, nondenom. college, est in 1873. 28. ST. JOSEPH-BENTON
HARBOR (see US12). US31 follows shore along edge of Van Buren Cty., which
takes nat rank in grapes & apples. 49.5. VAN BUREN ST. PK. (beach.f acils.group
camp.store). 53. SOUTH HAVEN, port & resort city with fine sand beach (good
accoms.). Black R., which flows through town, was popular Ind. camp site, as was
high ridge (E) marking ancient shoreline. Annual Peach Festival & Perch _ Run.
Dunes give way to wilder scenery where steep clay banks are carved by wind &
waves into strangely beautiful patterns. 71. J. with St.89, which leads (E) across
Allegan St For. (f.h.pic.camp facils.), 58,000 as. along Kalamazoo R. (canoe trL).
Swan Creek Wildlife Exper. Sta.; Archery Course (natfield trials).
SIDE TRIP: On St.89 (E) 25m to Allegan, lively resort center, known for 100-yr. old Cty.
Fair.
75. DOUGLAS & SAUGATUCK, art colony & vacation center, at mouth of Kala-
mazoo R. (hotels.resorts.protected harbor). Mt Baldhead (Old Baldy), across R., is
highest dune on L. Mich. Dune Desert extends (N) for miles, a surrealist's dream of
moving sandhills, towering trees without foliage, unusual flowers. Ottawa Beach St
Pk. (f.camp.facils.bathh.store).
87. HOLLAND
Through RR. & bus conns. Airport. Accoms. of all kinds. Recr. facils. Annual Tulip
Festival. Info, at Warm Friend Tavern.
Holland is leading center of Dutch colony est. 100 yrs. ago. M. M. Quaife calls it
"foremost center of Dutch cultural influence in America." Tulip Time (middle of
May) draws hundreds of thousands to the Dutch hostelries to see wooden-shoe
carvers, parades & dancing in costume in scrubbed streets. Shipping pt. for millions
of baby chicks, ducks & geese. PTS. OF INT.: Central Ave. & 12th St, Nether-
lands Mns,, repository of Dutch records & folk material, incL gifts from Netherlands
Gov. Hope College, founded in 1855 as Rev. A. C. Van Raalte's "anchor of hope."
Mem. Chapel (1929.mod.Goth.). Western Theological Seminary, for Dutch Re-
formed ministry. Old First Ch. (1856.Gr.Rev.), only bldg. to survive 1871 fibre.
Little Netherlands (O.sm.fee), miniature village.
108. GRAND HAVEN, f. port & resort center. Grand Haven St Pk. (f.bathh.pic.
camp.store.facils.). J. with US16 (see). 121. MUSKEGON (see US16). J. with St20.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.20 (W) 4m to Muskegon St. Pk. (f.bathkboatlivery.pic.group
camp.store)
(B) On St.20 (NE) 64 m to Big Rapids. At 26m Fremont, home of Gerber's Baby Food
(tours); one of several sports centers in Newaygo Cty., noted f. & h. area.
On St.82 (S) & (E) 10m to Newaygo (trlr.pk.suppHes.guides.boats), on Muskegon R., at
edge of Manistee Nat. For. (see US10). Newaygo Cry. Winter Sports Pk.
St.20 conts. (NE) to White Cloud, 40m, ranger sta. of nat. for.; White Cloud St Pk. 64m
Big Rapids, home of Ferris Institute, coed., founded by W. N. Ferris (TJ.S. Senator & Gov.)
as "school for the masses.'*
36. WHITEHALL & MONTAGUE, on White L. (f .pic.camp.boatbathh.trlrs.stores),
one of best yr.-round f. spots. In winter a few thousand f. shanties make gaily
colored village on the L. At Little Point Sable is Lighth. said to be tallest on L. Mich.
146. HART, among orchards & berry fields (fresh fruit, cider, pies & jellies for
sale). 152. PENTWATER* fruit-shipping port; also resort center noted for steel-
head trout. Chas. Mears St. Pk. (pic.camp.facils.store). 166. J. with US 10, with which
US31 unites. From J. (W) 2 is Ludington (see US10); ferry to Wis. cities.
US 31 MICHIGAN 545
Sec. 2: J. with US10 to MACKINAW CITY. 190.
7* SCOTTVDLLE; large canning factories & grain elevators. Annual Cattle Show.
US3 1 turns (N) across pioneer lumbering country, now resort area cut by the fast,
crooked Pere Marquette R. (canoe trl. trout). 29* MANISTEE (all kinds of accoms.).
Manistee Nat For. Festival (July 4). Along L. are plants of Morton Salt Co. &
Hardy Salt Co., largest in world (O.guides). Century Boat Co. Plant (O). On St.110
(N) is Orchard Beach St Pk. J. with St.55.
SIDE TRIP: On St.55 (E) 43m to CadiHac, yr.-round resort Info.: C. of C. Winter Car-
nival (late Jan.). City, named for founder of Detroit, was one of chief lumbering centers,
Mt. Caberfae Winter Sports Area (accoms.bus from Cadillac & Wellston), one of best in
Middle West; on highest land in Lower Peninsula (1,700').
35. J. with St.22.
SIDE TRIP: On St.22 (N). (Tour of Leelanau Peninsula, on Grand Traverse Bay.) 7m
Onekama, in Portage L. resort area. 18^ Arcadia, Luth. summer resort. 31m Elfoerta &
Frankfort (A.A. RR. Car Ferry to Menominee & Manistique, Mich., & Manitowoc, Wis.).
One of largest commercial f . fleets on Gt.Ls. has hqs. at Frankfort (trips on appl.). Hy. curves
around Crystal & Platte Ls. (f.resorts). 53 m Empire. J. with St.72, route across peninsula
through resort centers & miles of cherry orchards. 65m J. with St 109, which makes loop
tour of peninsula. 71m Glen Arbor, on lovely Glen L.; Dunesmobile trips. 89m Leland,
summer artist's colony & f. village; boat to Manitou L Sugar Loaf Winter Sports Center.
100m Nortfaport, resort center. Shady Trls. Camp, for speech correction. Nortnport
Lighth. (1839). St.22 turns (S) here to follow broken (E) side of peninsula. 121m Bingham,
near L. Leelanau (resorts.canip sites). 132m Traverse City.
47. BEAR LAKE VILLAGE, resort. 6L BENZONIA & BEULAH (f.boatcamp.
cottages.hotels), on Crystal L. (annual smelt run jce-f.). 70. INTERLOCHEN NAT.
MUSIC CAMP, of Univ. of Mich, (concerts in summer). On Stl37 (S) Interiochea
St Pk. in Fife L. St. For.
83. TRAVERSE CITY
Through RR. & bus conns. Airport. Accoms. of all lands. Trips on Leelanau Peninsula;
to Sugar Loaf Winter Sports Club. Whole area is dotted with resorts. Info.: C. of C.
Traverse City, besides being health (hay fever & asthma) & vacation resort & sports
center, is also leading U.S. market for cherries. It has one of most beautiful settings
of any town in St. Traditional Blessing of Cherry Blossoms (mid-May) is event of
nat int. Clinch Pk. (yacht basin.beach). Con Foster Mus. J. with St.37.
SIDE TRIP: (N) On St.37 through Old Mission Peninsula (inn & other accoms.), a 15*
tendril of land, white with cherry blossoms in spring. Site of Presb. Mission, 1st white
settlement (1839) in bay area. Old Mission Ughtn.
85. TRAVERSE CITY ST. PK. (f.bath.boatpic.camp.facils.store). US31 runs (N)
on narrow isthmus bet. bay & Torch L. 116. TORCH L. VILLAGE. Dist abounds
in resorts; good country for deer & sm. game. Chippewa village sites, spears &
arrowheads are frequently found. 135. CHARLEVOIX, boating & deep-sea trolling
center in wealthy community (cruisesxanoe trls.beaches.tourist camp.steamship &
plane to Beaver L & Petoskey). J. with St.66.
SIDE TRIP: Beaver L is largest in archipelago 30m O r more (W) of Straits. St James
(hotel.cabins.info.at C.of C.). Chippewa & Ottawa Inds, were 1st inhabitants, & "coureurs
de bols" roamed the woods before settlement was made on mainland. In 1847, the Mor-
mons arrived from Voree, Wis. (see), under Jas. Jesse Strang. Homesteaders were ad-
mitted in 1848, but King Strang, crowned in 1850, was absolute monarch until prejudice
<&. suspicion caused Gov. investigation. Strang was acquitted &. served in Mich. Legislature.
Rebellion later broke out against the tyrannical leader, & he was slain in 1856. Some
2,500 Mormons were driven away by rnainlanders who took over the I. Irish fisherman est.
colony around St. James, where pop. is stfll largely Irish. Harbor Light, erected during
Mormon period.
152. PETOSKSY (RR. & bus conns. Accoms. & sports facils. guides). Thousands
come by snow train to 10-day Winter Carnival (Feb.). Hiawatha Ind. Pageant
(July- Aug.). On Little Traverse Bay is Magnus St Pk. US31 unites with US131
through adj. Bay View, known for Bay View Assembly (Meth.) Summer & Music
Sen. (concerts & lectures).
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US131 from Petoskey (S) 9m to Walloon Lake VHIage, resort on
one of lovliest inland Ls. (f.swimJh.hotelsjesorts.cabins). 16m Boyne Falls, on fast Boyne
R., great smelt stream.
(B) On St.131 from Bay View (N) & (W) 8 m to Harbor Springs, resort on deep-water harbor.
29m Cross Village, Ind. town on high bluff. Autumn Pow-wow (may be photographed).
Father Weikamp's Tomb.
546 US 2 MICHIGAN
157. CONWAY, on Crooked L., part of Inland Water Route (camp.f.& h.resorts).
170. PELLSTON (airporthotels & other accpms.). 190. MACKINAW CITY (see
US23). St. ferries to St. Ignace (see US2). J. with US23 (see) & Rd. along Cecil Bay.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (W) 8m to Wilderness St Pk. (f.h.), circled by truck trl.; serv. area
(pic,camp.cabinslacils.no store). Much of inter, is impenetrable.
US 2 MICHIGAN
SAULT STE MARIE (W) to MICH.-WIS. LINE. 388. US2
Via: St. Ignace, Brevort, Naubinway, Manistique, Rapid River, Gladstone, Escanaba,
Norway, Iron Mountain, Crystal Falls, Watersmeet, Wakefield, & Ironwood.
US2 is direct route bet. Soo & St. Ignace. From there, hy. follows L. Mich. (W) &
then crosses cedar swamps & pine, balsam & spruce fors. to rugged iron country &
land of Ls. Ottawa Nat. For. covers whole W. end of Upper Peninsula.
Sec. 1: SAULT STE MARIE (S) to ST. IGNACE. 53. (see Sault Ste Marie Trip II).
Sec. 2: ST. IGNACE (W) to ESCANABA. 145.
.ST. IGNACE . T ^
RR. & bus conns. Ferry to Mackinaw City & Mackinac I. Excursions to Les Cheneaux.
Hotels, lodges, cabins. Info.: Bureau at City Hall.
St Ignace, port of entry, 2nd oldest settlement in St.; commercial f . center, smoked
whitefish a specialty. From across Straits, city is semicircle of bright-roofed houses,
half-hidden by trees, against background of hills dark with cedar & pine. Scene in
winter is a flashback to the past, with sailors & fishermen in dungarees, hunters &
woodsmen in mackinaws, & horsedrawn sleighs in narrow, white roadways. Nicolet
visited site in 1634, & fur traders followed. Pere Marquette founded mission in
1670, & Ft de Buade (later Micnilimackinac) was erected by Fr., but after Cadillac
left for Detroit (see), the outpost was abandoned. Near site of mission is Grave of
Pere Marquette, who died on return journey from Miss. R. exploration & was buried
near Ludington (see US10), on L. Mich. Ind. friends brought his body back to St
Ignace by canoe, & grave was accidentally discovered in 1877. Ind. Village; baskets
& souvenirs. Ft de Buade Ruins. On Stl22, Straits St. Pk. (pic.camp.).
US2 becomes scenic hy. (W) among dunes & hills (resort facils.cabins.pic. & camp
sites). Jutting into L. are Pt Aux Chenes, Pt. La Barbe, Gros Cap, Seul Choix Pt
15. (E. of hy.) Brevort L., resort center. 44. NAUBINWAY, resort center (good f.
& h.) in reg. of Millecoquins L. 50. J. with SU35, which leads (N) 8 m to Curtis, on
edge of Manistique L* (best wall-eyed f. in St.resort facils.). 66. BLANEY PK.
(O.yr.round.sports facils.playh.); info, at New Camp 9, on hy.; trls. on logging Rds.;
sleigh trains to deeryards & lumber camps. Paul Bunyan's Camp, on L. Louise; Lum-
berwoods Mus. 82. GULLIVER (f.accoms.airport). On L. Mich. (SE) is Port L,
where Inland Lime & Stone Co. quarries millions of tons of limestone; loaded on
freighters by conveyor system.
90. MANISTIQUE
Through RR. & bus conns. Ferries to Frankfort & Wis. cities. Airport. More than 30
sizable resorts in Cty. (f.h.swim.boat).
Manistique is Upper Peninsula's only harbor clear the yr. round & is a leading
resort center. Commercial f., shipping, & wood & paper mfg. are important. It was
one of largest lumbermill towns. Bordering city are Hiawatha Nat, For. & Casino
St Game Refuge. At N. edge is Wyman Nursery, probably largest in world. J. with
for. Rd. & St.94, which leads (N) 11^ to Hiawatha; then (W) into Hiawatha Nat
For. (see St.28).
SIDE TRIP: On for. Rd. (W) c.6m to Ind. L. St Pk. (f.bathh.electric.facilsxamp.trlrs.).
At N. end of L. is Kitch-Iti-Kipi Spring, a cold, clear pool in Palms Book St Pk. (facils.
store.no camp.). Resorts with good beaches & hotels.
96. THOMPSON, St Fish Hatchery (O), said to be largest in world. US2 rounds
head of Big Bay de Noc (bass.pike). 107. J. with Rd. leading (S) into Garden Penin-
sula (harbors.cottages.resorts).
US2 runs (W) across top of Stonington Peninsula, Arcadian countryside (f.camp.
boatresorts). 115. NAHMA JCT. Rd. leads (S) to Nahma, resort & sports center.
Bay de Noquet Lumber Camps (O). 129. RAPID RIVER, lumber & resort town in
US 2 MICHIGAN 547
good deer & small-game area. J. with US41 (see). 134. 5. KIPLING, 2nd lumbering
village named for poet (see Sault Ste Marie Trip n). 136. GLADSTONE (through.
RR. & bus lines.accoms.tourist pk.) industrial town & sports center on Little Bay
de Noc. Nat, Log Birling Tournament (July). Winter Festival (Feb.). Sports Pk.
(O.yr.round). Marble Arms Co. (O), makers of hunting knives.
145. ESCANABA
Through RR. & bus conns. Mun. Airport. Accoms. Tourist Pk. Yacht harbor. Winter
Carnival (Feb.); Smelt Jamboree (Ap.); Hiawathaland Festival (July 3-6); Venetian
Night (Aug.); U. Peninsula St. Fair (Aug.). Info.: C. of C.
Escanaba (sett. 1830) ships millions of tons of iron ore annually from lofty Piers
extending nearly a half-mile into Green Bay. Named by Inds. "Land of the Red
Buck," Escanaba is stopping place for deer hunters & fishermen & hqs. of Hiawatha
& Marquette Nat Fors. Birdseye Veneer Co. (O), largest in world.
Sec. 3: ESCANABA to MICH.-WIS. LINE. 190.
US2 unites (W) with US41 (see) for 30 m through iron ranges. 21. HARRIS, named
for M. B. Harris, who saved Potawatomi from starvation during smallpox epidemic.
Rd. leads (S) to Hannahville Settlement (Ind.). 41. MENOMINEE CTY. PK. (pic.
camp.water). 48. LORETTO, on rim of Menominee Iron Range. In vie. are Hamilton
Ls. (camp.bath.). 53. NORWAY (info.bureau.tourist sery.), prosperous resort vil-
lage. Rd. leads (S) to Old Town, site of Norway before it caved into underground
mine workings. Ind. Head Fish Hatchery. (US8 enters Norway from Wis.)
iO. IRON MOUNTAIN & KINGSFORD
Through RR. & bus conns. Ford Airport. Hotels & resort & sports facils. Info, bureau
at C. of C.
Iron Mountain is literally a mountain of ore; distributing pt. since 1878. Hillside
village of Kingsford grew up around Ford Motor Co. plant. Good f . streams & dense
fors. in vie. PTS. OF INT.: (1) City Pk. (pic.cabins.swim.). (2) L. Antoine Pk. (pic.
bathh.). (3) Cornish Mine Pump, last in Upper Peninsula & one of largest in world;
flywheel weighs 100 tons. (4) Pewabic Mine Cave-in. (5) World's Largest Artificial
Ski Slide. (6) Horserace Rapids, in Menominee R. ''canoe trl. through rugged
country).
US2 unites with US 141 & enters Wis. 79. Hy. crosses Brule R. into Mich, again.
Michegamme, Paint & Net Rs. unite with the Brule to form great Menominee R.
90. CRYSTAL FALLS (cottages.resorts), hqs. for canoe trls. & scenic trips. Bass
Festival (July) on Paint R. Peavey Falls Dam & L.; record catches of bass, pike &
perch. 94. BE-WA-BIC PK. (pic.camp.bathh.sports facils.) 95. Rd. (S) to Pentoga
Pk. (camp.pic-group bldg.f.boats). 107. IRON RIVER & STAMBAUGH, twin cities
& latest of mining towns on Menominee Range; also lumbering & resort centers.
109. OTTAWA NAT. FOR. (hqs. at Ironwood.ranger stas.at Iron River, Bergland,
Bessemer, Kenton, Ontanogan & Watersmeet.camp.lh.), largest of St's 5 nat. fors.;
incl. 1,743,000 wilderness as. broken by 400 Ls. & l,200 m of streams; major hys.
& good for. & cty. Rds.; timber wolves, white-tailed deer, bear, beaver & porcupine.
130.5. US2 crosses Lac Vieux Desert Trl. Father Rene Menard, 1st recorded white
man in reg., started out on trl. from L'Anse (see US41), on L. Superior, but went
astray from party & was never seen again. Trl. leads (S) to Ind. village & Lac Vieux
Desert, on Wis. border. 131. WATERSMEET, where highlands divide Miss. R.
L. Superior & L. Mich, drainage systems. For miles around are hotels, lodges,
resorts, & cabin groups. J. with US45, route (S) through Land O'Ls. (see Wis.). 157.
MARENISCO has one of Upper Peninsula's largest lumber mills. Canoe trl. (for
experts) on wild Presque Isle R. 174. WAKEFIELD, mining center on edge of
Gogebic Iron Range, last to be explored. Wakefield Mine, one of largest open-pit
mines on range. J. with St.28 (see). 181. BESSEMER, beautiful valley town, once a
mining camp. Rd. along Black R. (canoe trl.) to mouth on L. Superior; Black R. Pk.
(pic.camp.).
189.5. IRONWOOD (through RR. & bus conns.airport;tourist & winter sports
facils.), 3rd-largest town in Upper Peninsula; separated by Montreal R. from no-
torious Hurley, Wis. City began when Gogebic range was opened, 1884-85, & some
of deepest mines are in vie. Mount Zion Shelter Lodge (skiing). Eureka Mine, 190,
MICH.-WIS. LINE.
54$ ST. 28 MICHIGAN
ST. 28 MICHIGAN
SAULT STE MARIE (W) to MICH.-WIS. LINE. 327. St28
Via* Eckennan Comer, McMillan, Seney, Shingleton, Munising, Marquette, Negatmee,
Ishpeming, Michigamme, Sidnaw, Bruce Crossing, Bergland, Wakefield, Ironwood.
Roughly paralleled by Soo Line RR. Hotels in larger centers; accoms. for summer
tourists along hy.
St.28, occasionally blocked by snow, runs through timberlands where axe Is heard
on hy., still the territory of wild chickens & ducks, bear & deer.
Sec. 1: SAULT STE MARIE to MARQUETTE. 165.
0. SAULT STE MARIE (see). J. with US2 (see). 8. St.28 turns (W) across swamps &
reforested areas. Piles of logs by roadside are reminders of lumbering days. Off hy.
(S) are sees, of Mimoscong St. Game Area. 21.5. MARQUETTE NAT. FOR. (hqs.
at Escanaba, ranger stas. at Raco & Moran.f.h.pic.camp.). More than 500,000
people a yr. use this 500,000-a. playground of unbroken for.; countless Ls. & f.
streams. In game refuges are wolf, bear, bobcat, fox & beaver. 38. ECKERMAN
CORNER. J. with St. 123 to Whitefish Pt. (see Sault Ste Marie Trip IV). 43.5. HUL-
BERT L. CLUB (dining room), short distance off hy. 48.5. J. with Rd. to Soo Jet.
(parking), where little RR. takes passengers to Tahquemenon R. boat, (see Sault
Ste Marie Trip IV). 55* J. with St.48, with which St28 unites (N) to Newbeny,
trade center; logging Rds. & wildflower trls. Newberry St. Hospital (mental). 86.
SENEY, serene town that was once the hell-hole of Upper Peninsula. Hotel. St77
leads (S) into Seney Migratory Waterfowl Refuge (Fed.).
SIDE TRIP: On St77 (N) 25m to Grand Marais, f . village, harbor & resort (good accoms.);
known for whitefish & swirling sand dunes. Pau-Puk-Keewis "danced Ms Beggar's Dance
on the beach at Grand Marais." Boats for Pictured Rocks (see below).
110. SHINGLETON. Hy. enters Hiawatha Nat For. (hqs. at Escanaba.ranger stas.
at Manistique, Munising & Rapid River.pic.camp.group camps.f.h.), 822,000 as.
incL some of St's most picturesque areas. In this for. Hiawatha & Nokomis had
their wigwams, & from its N. rim Hiawatha departed "in the purple mists of eve-
ning ... to the Islands of the Blessed." J. with St.84, which leads (N) to Cusino
St Game Refuge. 121. MUNISING (through RR.& bus conns.good accoms.sports
facils.), in crescent-shaped valley, facing Munising Bay. Opp. is Grand I., formerly
13,000-a. Ojibway camp, ground, now a resort (cabins.hotel). Munising began with
iron furnaces in 1850's & grew with lumbering; still a woodworking center. Tours to
Pictured Rocks & Grand L
SIDE TRIP: Pictured Rocks are best seen from boat (July-Sept.& chartered serv.). Radis-
son's journal (1658) has 1st description by white man of the 27m wall of many-colored
cliffs. Trip starts with Grand L Near Sand Pt, the Pictured Rocks begin, red-sandstone
formation carved by glaciers & wind, sun & rain of a thousand yrs. & painted by soluble
oxide deposits. Impressive formations are Colored & Rainbow Caves, Three Battleships,
lad. Drum Cave, Chapel Rock & Spray Cr. Cascade. Beyond Sullivan's Landing, 30m,
are Grand Sable Banks, dunes piled hundreds of feet high.
114. J. with dirt Rd. leading (N) through hardwood for. to Laughing Whitefish Falls
& Laughing Fish Pt 160. St28 unites with US41 (see). 165. MARQUETTE (see).
Sec. 2: MARQUETIE (W) to MICBL-WIS. LINE. 162.
12. NEGAUNEE. 15. ISHPEMING (see US41). Iron country is wild & rugged, with
sm. villages in midst of mine workings. Many lumbermen & miners went back to
the land, & wherever possible, there are farms. 41. MICHIGAMME (see US41).
73. COVINGTON, popular with hunters. Finnish Lnth. Ch. 77. Hy. crosses LAC
VIEUX DESERT TRL. (see US2). Beyond is Ottawa Nat. For. (see US2). 82.
NESBIT L. ORGANIZATION CAMP (large group camps.electric.water plant
cabins.infirmary.pic.camp.sports facils.). 106. BRUCE CROSSING, among dairy
pastures. 127. BERGLAND, at N. end of L. Gogebic, largest in Upper Peninsula;
many resorts & tourist pks. Just (W) is J. with St.64.
SIDE TRIP: On St.64 (N) 18m to Gull Pt. & Silver City, village on site of silver boom in
1870*s. J. with St.107, which leads (W) 10m to Porcupine Mts. St. Pk. (f.h.pic.camp.cabins.
overnight shelters.trlr.pks.), Mich/s newest (1943) & one of country's largest st. pks., cover-
ing 46,000 as. (6,600 under Fed.control). The Porcupines, highest range in Middle West,
parallel lakeshore & reach highest pt. at Gov. Peak (2,023'). Trls. to Mirror L. (cabins,
facils.trout), Lily Pond, Carp R. Falls & Site of Copper Mine (cabins).
US 41 MICHIGAN 549
St.28 unites with St.64 along N. end of L. Gogebic. 147. WAKEFIELB, in heart of
iron country. J. with Rd. to Presque Isle Pk. & Porcupine Mts. St.28 unites here with
US2 (see). 153.5. BESSEMER* 161.5. IRONWOOD. 162. Hy. crosses Montreal R.,
MICH.-WIS. LINE.
US 41 MICHIGAN
MICH.-WIS. LINE (Marinette, Wis.) (N) to COPPER HARBOR. 282. US41
Via: Menominee, Stephenson, Escanaba, Gladstone, Trenary, Marquette, Negaunee,
Ishpeming, L'Anse, Baraga, Houghton, Hancock, Calumet. Motor launch to Me
Royale from Copper Harbor. Resorts, tourist accoms.
US41 crosses broadest part of Upper Peninsula from Menominee Cty. farmlands
& excellent f. grounds, (E & NW) to Marquette & (N) to Keweenaw Peninsula,
the copper country.
Sec. 1: MENOMINEE to MARQUETTE. 131.
Menominee Cty. is bordered (E) by Green Bay & (W) by Menominee R. (Wis.
Line), celebrated in lumbering era for record log traffic. Stewart Edw. White (see
Grand Rapids) was lumberjack here. Though only 15% cleared, cty. leads Upper
Peninsula in farming.
0. MENOMINEE
Through RR. & bus conns. Menominee Cty. Airport, NW. limits. Interstate Bridge
to Marinette, Wis. Ann Arbor KR. Car & Auto Ferry to Frankfort. Hotel, tourist
accoms., cabins. Facils. for f., k, pic., camp., swim., boat., riding, & winter sports.
Smelt Carnival (Ap.); Yacht Race (July). Info.: C. of C. First Nat Bank Bldg.;
St. Hy. Info. Lodge at bridge.
Power dams on Menominee R. (canoe trl.bass & walleyes) & dredged harbor on
Green Bay make Menominee important industrial city, with f., cheese making, &
shipping of Christmas trees & other wood & paper products in the lead. Thousands
of deer hunters arrive in fall. Father Allouez (see) set up mission here, 1669, but
trading post was not est. until 1797. Lumber era began with 1st steam sawmill, 1836,
& Menominee became largest lumber-shipping port (1839-1910), filled with "saw-
mills, sawdust & saloons/* Yacht Basin (free). Menes Pk* (pic.bath.). Jordan College
(Cath.), on 100-a. campus. J. with St.35.
SIDE TRIP: St.35 is scenic hy. along Green Bay (camp sites). 16m Menomlnee Cty.
Mem. Pk. (camp), near Airport. 20*a J. W. Wells St. Pk. (piagroup camp.bath.).
21. STEPHENSON. J. with St352, which runs (W) to Menominee R. Game Area
(in.). 42. POWERS. Pinecrest Sanitarium (tuberculosis). US41 unites with US2.
64. ESCANABA, 72.5. GLADSTONE. 79.5. RAPED RIVER (see US2 for this sea).
US41 strikes (N) through fors. & swamplands. 116.5. SKANBIA. J. with Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (W) & (S) llm to Gwinn, model village in Escanaba R. St. Game
Area; many Ls. & fast-running Rs. large private estates & cabin colonies; deeryards
(guides). Camera country.
126.5. J. with St.28 (see), with which US41 unites (N).
131. MARQUETTE
Through RR. & bus conns. Marquette Cry. Airport, 8m (W). Hotels, tourist rooms &
cabins; tourist & St pks. in vie. Facils. for f., h^ swim,, boat, golf & winter
sports. Guides. Speedboat Races (July 4); Cty. Fair (Aug.). Info.: C. of C.; Upper
Peninsula Development Bureau.
High among granite cliffs, the Upper Peninsula metropolis looks down on fine
natural harbor picked out by Lighth. Pt, Presque Isle Pt & Picnic Rocks; seat of
Mich.*s largest cty., industrial center, college town, & summer & winter sports hqs.
Pere Marquette landed here in late 17th cent., & earliest Fr. maps show "Riviere
des Morts," still the Dead R. although full of rapids. Settlement began as shipping
pt for Marquette lodes, discovered by white men in l&SO's. Ore was carried in-
land by sleigh & mulecart over plank Rds., & freight was shipped by sail & por-
taged around falls until canal was opened (1855). Following peak in 1916, mines
gradually became inactive, but various industries expanded, & city's great ore
docks are busy. PTS. OF INT.: (1) Presque Isle & Kaye Ave., Northern Midi. Col-
lege of Education (est 1899) has wooded campus on L.; cooperates with Univ. of
Mich, in Grad. Sch. Peter White Science HalL Adm. Bldg. John D. Fierce Training
Sen. (2) Presque Me Pk* (swim.recr.facils.pic.zoo) on rocky peninsula. Granite Pt.
550 US 41 MICHIGAN
(NW), view over "pathless woods & lonely shore." (3) Ridge & S. Front Sts., Peter
White Pub. Lib. (1904.Ren.), gift of leading figure in mining boom. Cty. Hist. Soc.
Mus. & Lib. (O.appL). (4) Lakeside Pk., Father Marquette Mon. (1897.by Gaetano
Trentanove); bronze figure on granite crag. (5) Bluff & N. Front Sts., St. Peter's
Cathedral (1933.rebuilt 1936-37.mod.Romanes.by E.A.Schilling). Bishop Fred.
Baraga (see), 1st bishop of diocese (1857), is buried in crypt. (6) Ore Bocks. (7) State
H. of Correction & Branch Prison (Romanes.). (8) Superior Hills (winter sports). J.
with St.204.
SIDE TRIP: On St.204 (NW) 30m to Big Bay reg. around L. Independence (f.big game
huyr.-round hotel.cabins.store). Beyond (W) are Huron Mts., roadless area of granite
ridges & knobs; abundant wildlife.
Sec. 2: MARQUETTE to BARAGA. 74.
0. MARQUETTE. 12. NEGAUNEE (sett. 1846), underlain by mines of enormous
richness; sports center. First large iron ore bodies in N. Amer. were found at Jack-
son Hill, in 1844, by Houghton's surveying party. Jackson Mon., near site of dis-
covery. 15. ISHPEMING (sett. 1856), hqs. for leading iron companies. Nat. Ski
Assoc. meets held at Suicide Hill for more than 60 yrs. Mather Mine, one of world's
deepest. Tilden Mine, open pit. Barnes-Hecker Mine. Abandoned Ropes & Mich,
Gold Mines. 28. J. with St.95
SIDE TRIP: On St.95 (S) 7m to Republic, resort center on Michigamme R. (f.boatcamp.
canoe trl.); seat of old Republic Mine,
31. CHAMPION, former mining center. Van Riper Pk., on L. Michigamme (pic.
camp.bathh.dance pavilion.recr.facils.restaurants). Above L. (W) is St. Hy. Dept Pk.
(pic.tower). 39. MICHIGAMME, mining town & sports center. 59. ALBERTA,
all- white village built by Henry Ford around sawmill in midst of hardwoods. 69.
L'ANSE, center of resort area. Lac Vieux Desert Trl. (see US2) begins here.
US41 curves around Keweenaw Bay past Baraga St Pk. (f.camp.electric.stores).
74. BARAGA. In vie. (W) are cheese centers, notably Watton & Pelkie. Cranberry
bogs (N).
Sec. 3: BARAGA to COPPER HARBOR (Isle Royale). 77.
Keweenaw Peninsula tour. Through RR. & bus conns, in larger centers. Airports at
Baraga, Houghton, Laurium. Boats to Isle Royale from Copper Harbor; Great Ls.
cruises; deep-sea trolling. Hotels, resorts, pub. pks., pic. & camp sites.
Keweenaw Peninsula, the copper country, extends like a horn into L. Superior; cut
across by Portage L. & Portage Ship Canal. This highly scenic peninsula is settled
mainly by descendants of miners, lumbermen & adventurers. Ind. copper workings
are still visible. Nowhere else in world has massed copper been found in this pure
form. Mining began in 1844, & since then millions of tons have been unearthed.
2. ASSININS, founded by Father Baraga in 1843. Across bay was Meth. mission
of Rev. John PitezeL Baraga Mission, Ind. sch. & farm.
28. HOUGHTON & HANCOCK
Through RR. & bus conns. Airport. Good accoms. & all kinds of sports facils.
Tourist pk. Info.: C. of C.
Houghton, chief shipping pt & college town, was born of copper industry & became
political & financial center in early 1850's. Overlooking canal are bldgs. of Mich.
College of Mining & Technology, one of country's leading tech. schs. Engineering
Bidg.; Mus. College, founded by a few milling students, now has branch at Sault
Ste Marie (see). Hancock, larger of twin cities, is conn, with Houghton by only
bridge bet. 2 sees, of peninsula. Quincy Mine, oldest still-productive mine in St.,
was est. 1848 & became one of greatest on range. City was also lumber center. Al-
most every racial strain in Amer. is represented in pop.; large Finnish, Scand. &
Cornish groups. Louis Adamic has written much about reg. US41 leads uphill to
Quincy Mine Tourist View & Quincy Mine (surface plant O.); largest hoist in world.
J. with St203.
SIDE TRIP: On St203 (W) c.llm to F. J. McLain St. Pk. (piofacils.store), on L.
Superior.
39. LAURIUM (airport), residential community. St26 unites with US4L Adj. is
Calumet, home of Calumet & Hecla Mine (N.O.), once queen of copper mines. 47.
Active AHMEEK MINE. 57. PHOENIX. St.26 here becomes Sand Dunes Dr.
, MICHIGAN 551
SIDE TRIP: On St.26 (N) & (E) to Copper Harbor. 2m Eagle River. Douglass Hooghton
Mon., to young geologist who was drowned near spot in 1845. Eagle Harbor (camp
cabins). Agate Harbor. Blueberry & blackberry country. 24m Copper Harbor (see below)!
70. L. MEDORA (whitefish). On tableland above L. is Keweenaw Pk. (cottages.
clubh.& golf course.tower). Beyond is turn-out to Brockway Mt Dr. to West Bluff
(1,380'). 77. COPPER HARBOR (good accoms.airport.boats to Isle Royale), yr.-
round resort. 80. FT. WILK3NS ST. PK. (f.swim.picxamp.trlrs.store). Ft WilMns
(1844).
Isle Royale Nat Pk.
Boat Serv.: From Copper Harbor twice wkly. July 1-15; 3 times wkly. July 15-Sept
6; by arrangement in June. From Grand Marais & Grand Portage, Minn., twice
wkly. May 15-Nov. 15; & from Ft William & Port Arthur, Ont, beginning June 30,
Chartered airplane serv. Accoms.: Windigo Inn (July 1-Sept.l); Rock Harbor Lodge
(June 15-Sept.7.guest H. & cottages); camp sites. Cars stored at ports; no hys. in pk.
Registration & camp permits required. Guides, boats, tackle & supplies. Info.: Pk. Serv.
Hqs., Rock Harbor. Supt, Houghton, Mich.
This 134,000-a. wilderness lies close to Can. boundary, some 50 m (NW) from Mich,
mainland. Shorelines are cut by numerous coves & bays, largest of which is
Siskiwit Bay. O jib way did not cede Is. until 1842. Amer. Fur Co. est posts here in
1830's; & copper mining was carried on in late 19th cent. Prehist tribes had worked
the mines. The thin soil covers lava formation, & numerous peaks rise out of groves
of ash, maple & oak, cedar, balsam & pine. Flora is unusually varied. Moose,
coyote, mink, beaver <& snowshoe rabbits are common; but bear, deer, porcupine &
wolves either found Isle Royale unsuitable or never appeared there. PTS. OF INT.
(directions at hqs.): Mt Lookout Louise, highest pt; Mon. Rock, Mt Franklin
& Mt Ojibway. Old Lighth., used until 1858. Prehist Mine Workings. Moose
Wallows.
DETROIT
RR. stas.: 15th & Michigan Ave., Mich. Central; Fort St. & 3rd Ave., Union Depot;
foot of Brush St., Grand Trunk Depot. Washington Blvd. & Grand River Ave., Bus
Term. Airports: (W) c.25m on US212, Willow Run Airport; Conner & Gratiot Aves.,
City Airport; Seaplane Bases at Belle Isle & Grosse Pointe Pk. Great Ls. cruises; ex-
cursions to Cedar Pt & Put-in-Bay, O.; Bob Lo I., Tashmoo I. & other pts. Good
accoms.; recr. facils. Stage & motion picture theaters; dramatic, musical, & other
events at Music Hall, Art Institute, Wayne Univ., Rackham Bldg., Pub. Lib. Resorts,
st. pks. & recr. areas in vie. Info.: Opp. City HaE, Convention & Tourist Bureau; 139
Bagley Ave., Detroit Auto. Club; 320 W. Lafayette Ave., Board of Comm. Annual
Events: Mich. Exposition (Jan.), Horse Racing (May-Sept.), St Fair (Sept.), Mich.
Artists' Show (Nov.); Auto, Dog, Flower & trade shows in Convention Hall. How to
enter Canada: Detroit-Canada Tunnel (bus & auto), foot of Bates St.; Ambassador
Bridge (toll), Porter & 22nd Sts. Info. Detroit: Customs Dept, Griswold & Lamed Sts.;
Immigration Dept, 3770 E. Jefferson Ave. No passports required of residents of U.S.
or Canada, but identification, naturalization or proof-of-entry papers advised; car
(for 6 mos. duty free) & vacation equipment
Detroit, motor capital on world's busiest waterway, is 4th largest city in U.S., ranks
3rd as industrial center & 4th as exporting port. Metrop. area extends over 142-sq.
miles, & Windsor, across R. in Essex Cty., Ont, is also an automotive center.
Judge Augustus Woodward's city plan imitated L'Enfanfs Washington, but geo-
metric pattern covers orig. circular web. During phenomenal expansion in 20th
cent., Detroit sprang into the air but failed, at first, to expand horizontally. Result
is small & confusing downtown dist running a few blocks (N) from R. & (E) & (W) of
Woodward Ave. (US 10). A block (W) of Ave. is Washington Blvd. where better
shops, hotels & theaters cluster around Grand Circus Pk. Jefferson Ave. follows old
shoreline (E) to wealthy Grosse Pointe communities & (W) to downriver industrial
centers. The cities of Highland Park & Hamtramck (N) are completely surrounded
by Detroit
In absence of subway or elevated, traffic streams through congested sts. & over
magnificent hys. Another stream of traffic pours night & day from immense func-
tional factory bldgs. The nearly 3,000,000 residents of metrop. area (more than
half of St's pop,) depend mainly on automotive power for their livelihood. This
predominantly serious pop., from all parts of the world, gives aspect of grim automa-
552 DETROIT, MICHIGAN
tism to city life, especially noticeable in ever-present, slowly moving lines waiting
for buses. These same people give Detroit its tremendous, restless vitality. Of 20
sizable racial groups, the Polish is probably largest. Itals. form important element
with considerable cultural influence, as do descendants of early Fr., German, Irish
<& Brit settlers. Nearly 350,000 Negroes (1947) live in areas widely scattered from
orig. nucleus around Hastings St A few blocks (E) of City Hall are coffee shops of
Arabic-speaking community. Leading the world in manufacture of automobiles,
Detroit is also a growing steel center & ranks high in Pharmaceuticals, adding
machines, salt, varnishes, rubber goods & marine, aeronautical & television equip-
ment. Wayne Univ., Univ. of Detroit, Marygrove College, Symphony Orchestra,
Institute of Arts & other institutions give it increasing importance as cultural center.
Founded by Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac for Louis XIV, Detroit began as fur-
trading post, was taken by Brit, at close of Fr. & Ind. War & only relinquished
after Battle of Fallen Timbers (see Ohio). Fire destroyed the settlement in 1805.
During War of 1812, Detroit was again surrendered to Brit, by Terr. Gov. Wm. Hull
& held until Perry's victory on L. Erie. After Civil War, the city began to develop
industrially, & immigrants swarmed in from N.Y. & New England. Before the auto-
mobile, Detroit made RR. cars, carriages, & bicycles. With development of a
practical motor car, expansion was fantastically rapid, & civic problems correspond-
ingly more complex. With one of largest labor unions in the world, Detroit is im-
portant factor in nat political & economic affairs.
PTS. OF INT. INDUSTRIAL: (1) Automobile Plants: Ford Motor Co. (see Trip n
below). 1580 E. Grand Blvd., Packard Motor Car Co. (O). 12200 E. Jefferson Ave.,
Chrysler Corp. (usually O.); also Dodge, DeSoto & Plymouth Plants. Michigan &
Clark Ave., Cadillac Motor Car Co. (O.8-4). W. Warren & Livernois Aves., Lin-
coln Plant, of Ford Motor Co. (O.appL). (2) Other Plants (usually O.): 615 W.
Lafayette Ave., "Detroit News" (tours); radio & television studios. 6600 E. Jefferson
Ave., U.S. Rubber Co. 6900 E. Jefferson Ave., Detroit-Mich. Stove Co., 1 McDougall
Ave!, Parke-Davis Laboratories, world's largest producer of Pharmaceuticals. 6008-
75 Second Blvd., Burroughs Adding Machine Co. 2900 E. Grand Blvd., Jam Handy
Motion Picture Studios.
PTS OF INT. DOWNTOWN: (3) Woodward & Michigan Aves., Cadillac Sq., on
site of old City Hall & Market. On (W) side, City Hall (1871.Fr.Goth.by Jas.An-
derson). On (E) side, Wayne Cty. Bldg. (1895-1902.Ital.Ren.by John Scott); bronze
"Progress" groups above Corinthian portico by J. Massey Rhind. Opp. City Hall,
Soldiers' & Sailors 5 Mon. (by Randolph Rogers); (E) of Mon. Cadillac's Chair, of
age-darkened red sandstone, empty except for birds. (4) Woodward Ave. & Wood-
bridge St, Mariners' Cfa. (1849.Eng.Goth), 2nd oldest in city; & Mariners' Inn (O),
now Episc. City Mission Center. (5) Gratiot Ave., bet. Farmer & Library Sts.,
Downtown Lib. (1932.mod.Class.), on site of jail where Wayne tavernkeeper was
hanged for murder of his wife, last legal execution in St., as popular reaction made
Mich, the 1st St to abolish capital punishment (1847). (6) 350 Madison Ave.,
Music Hall, home of Symphony Orchestra developed by late Ossip Gabrilowitsch.
(7) Lafayette Blvd., 2 blocks (W) from Cad. Sq., Federal Bldg. (1934.mod.Class.);
plaque at Site of Ft Shelby. (8) Griswold & Fort Sts., Penobscot Bldg. (1928.by
Smith, Hinchman & Grylls), city's tallest tower (O.telescope). (9) W. Fort & 3rd
Sts., Fort St Presb. Ch. (1855.Eng.Goth.by A.& OJordan); fine wooden spire (230'),
richly decorated facade. (10) State & Griswold Sts., Capitol Pk., site of 1st St.
capitol (1828-47), burned in 1893. Grave of Stevens T. Mason, 1st Gov. (11) 1234
Washington Blvd., St Aloysras Ch. (Cath.1930.Romanes.by Donaldson & Meier);
unusual street-level balcony overlooking altar. (12) Head of Washington Blvd., (E)
& (W) of Woodward Ave., Grand Circus Pk. Edison Fountain (1929). Statue of
Gov. Pingree (by Rudolph Schwartz). Alger Mem. Fountain (1921. by Dan.C.French).
(13) 2000 Witherell St., Detroit Institute of Technology, maintained by Y.M.C.A.
PTS. OF INT. (N) & (NE): (14) E, Vernor Hy. & Russell St., Eastern Mun. Market
At daybreak horse-drawn wagons mingle with hundreds of trucks; later the cross-
shaped bldgs. are crowded with housewives of 50 nationalities. (15) 500 Temple
Ave., Masonic Temple (1926.Goth.by G.D.Mason); concert hall. In Woodward &
Kirby Aves. vie. is Art Center, with white-marble bldgs. under immense elms: (16)
Institute of Arts (1927.modJtal.Ren.by Paul Cret & Zantzinger,Borie & Medary).
DETROIT, MICHIGAN 553
Arrangement in period rooms, by Dn W. R. Valentiner, is especially notable.
Rivera Mnrals of "Detroit Industry" in garden court. Mus. specializes in Itai Goth,
sculpture & N. European painting. (17) Pnb. Lib. (1921 JtaLRen.by Cass Gilbert);
murals by F. J. Wiley, Edwin Blashfield & Gari Melchers; Clarence M. Burton Hist
Coll. (18) 441 Merrick Ave., Detroit Hist Mus. (O.exc.Mon.free). (19) 5205 Cass
Ave., Children's Mus. (O.exaSun.); hist, exhibits & dioramas. (20) Woodward &
Putnam Aves., Rackham Educational Mem. (O.1942.mod.Class.by Harley, Elling-
ton & Day), center for Univ. of Mich. Extension Serv. (see Ann Arbor on US12)
(21) (W) of Art Center, Wayne Univ., with hqs. in Old Central High Sch. (1896.
Romanes.by Malcoimson & Higgenbotham); org. in Law Sch,, Grad. Sch., Colleges
of Education, Liberal Arts, Pharmacy, Engineering & Nursing & Schs. of Pub.
Affairs, Social Studies, Medicine, Business Adm. & Gen. Studies (no degree) (22)
4800 Woodward Ave., St Paul's Episc. Cathedral (1908-19.Goth.by Cram, Goodhue
& Ferguson), for oldest Prot. Episc. parish in N.W. (est 1824). (23) W. Grand & 2nd
Blvds. is New Center Group (1919-3 l.by Albert Kahn): Gen. Motors BMg. (1919)
15-story structure begun by W. C. Durant (see) to cost $20,000,000. (24) Across
JSy^J^S ^ dg * ?S 8 i ; e ter * & ^ter. lavishly decorated with costly materials.
(25) 2799 W. Grand Blvd. Henry Ford Hospital (1921. designed by company en-
gineers). (26) 8801 Woodward Ave., Temple Bern El (Class.), Mich.'s oldest Jewish
congregation (est 1859). (27) Woodward & Belmont Aves., Blessed Sacrament Catne*
dral (1938.Fr.Goth.by Henry A.Walsh) of Cath. Archdiocese. (28) McNichols Rd
& Liveraois Ave., Univ. of Detroit (1927.Sp.Ren.by Malcoimson & Higgenbotham)*
under Jesuit Order; colleges of law, engineering, commerce, finance & dentistry
Aerodynamical Lab. Mem. Tower. (29) 8425 McNichols Rd., Marygrove College,
st's oldest Cath. college for women; handsome white-stone bldgs. (Eng.Goth ) (30)
Hamtramck & (31) Highland Pk. (see below).
,; \ .JEFFERSON AVE.: (32) At. St Antoine St., SS. Peter &
PauFs Ch. (Cath.1844.Romanes.by Francis Letourno), oldest Ch. in city; (33) At
E. Grand Blvd., Belle Isle Bridge (1923.cantilever). Near approach is Gabriel
Richard Pk. (bus & ferry.pic,bathh.canoes.casino). (34) In Belle L Pk. are: L.
Takoma (skating pavilion), Barbour Mem. Fountain; Conservatory* Aquarium-
Zoo; Livingstone Mem. Light; Scott Mem. Fountain; Boat & Yacht Clubhs
PTS OF INT. (SW): (35) Howard & 19th Sts., Ste Anne's Shrine (1886.Goth.),
fjr^^I* 16 ^. continuously maintained Cath. parish in U.S., est. 2 days after
Cadittacs landing in 1701. Burial Place of Father Richard (see) in crypt behind
altar. Ste Anne's Chapel (O.appl.); 1828 altar & other relics of Father Richard,
known as Mich, s 1st educator; .also served as Terr. Delegate. (36) Porter & 22nd
Ste., ^Ambassador Bridge (1929.toll), beautiful 2^ link with Canada. (37) Foot
of Livernois Ave Ft Wayne (c 1841.rest& developed). (38) Fullerton & Warrea
Aves., Outer Dr. & Burt Rd., Hirer Ronge Pk. (summer & winter sports.swim.
pools of Olympics* standards).
HAMTRAMCK
A city of c.50^00, Hamtramck is encircled by Detroit & practically indistinguish-
able from it Hamtramcfc Township, named for Col. J. R Hamtramck, Detroit's
1st Amer. military commdr., was rural community until Dodge Bros in 1914
est automobile plant Present pop. is more than 50% Polish, & its closely ore.'
social life keeps it a distinct & colorful entity. Negro community was also est
in early yrs. & 1st common council incl. a Negro member. Hamtramck gained
nat attention with its Pub. Sch. Code, developed by Dr. M. R. Keyworth toaid
rnimigrants in adjusting to Amer. 3056 Hanley Ave., Tan Beta Community BL &
^ & Brombach ^
HIGHLAJNB PARK
Like Hamtramck, Highland Park is a city within a city, with Woodward Ave as
its main street Building of Ford plant here before World War I brought tho^and^
of workers, but since removal of plant to Dearborn (see) in 1920, Hkhland Park
b a j^?' a residential suburb. 12244 Woodward Ave., McGregor
d ^ S ^ y ^ X ' Tilton & A.M.Githens). 13100 Woodward
of Technology; coop, work-study plan.
DETROIT AND VICINITY
wuwmAr~yc
raoodcaVn;
LEGEND
POINTS OF INTEREST
U.S. HIGHWAYS
53). STATE HIGHWAYS
1234
DOWNTOWN
DETROIT
MAPS COURTESY OF
AUTOMOBILE CLUB OF MICHIGAN
TRAVEL BUREAU
556 TRIPS OUT OF DETROIT
TRIPS OUT OF DETROIT
L DETROIT (E) to WINDSOR, ONT.
Via: Detroit-Canada Tunnel (1929-30) or over Ambassador Br. (see above).
WINDSOR (see "How to enter Canada" above); the Dominion's automotive center,
is also market for large tobacco, corn, soybean & fruit-producing area. PTS. OF
INT.: (1) 254 Pitt St, Col. Francis Baby EL (1812.pronounced "Baw-bee"), Gen.
Hull's hqs. in War of 1812. (2) Russell & Brooks Sts., St John's Anglican Ch., one
of oldest in reg. (3) Peter St. off Sandwich St., Assumption College (1855) & As-
sumption Ch. on site of Jesuit Mission (1750).
JL DETROIT (W) to YPSILANTL 29.5. US112 (conn, with Willow Run Express-
way).
0. DETROIT. US112 follows Mich. Ave. (NW). 9.5. DEARBORN, home of River
Rouge plant of Ford Motor Co. (RR. & bus. accoms. Willow Run Airport). City
has 3 distinct sees.: Fordson, "Old Dearborn" & the Ford domain, miles of factory
bldgs. with symmetrical row of giant chimneys. A night view of the Rouge plant is
particularly impressive. In late 18th cent., narrow Fr. farms spread along R., & the
Sauk Trl. led across Thirty Mile Swamp, but by c. 18 35, through efforts of Father
Richard (see), a stagecoach route was developed. Dort-Durant Carriage Co.'s plant
(see Flint) was forerunner of G.M. Corporation. When Ford's ship plant was est. &
Ford plant moved from Highland Pk. (1923), the village swelled rapidly (50,000
pop. in 1930). Present pop. is more than 50% foreign born or of foreign-born
parentage.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Ford Rouge Factory covers around 1,200 as., with its assembly
plants on conveyor system. Adm. Bldg. (N.O.), Schaefer Rd. & Airport Dr., official
center of worldwide interests. Rotunda, encircled by roadway made of sees, illus-
trating famous ancient & modern rds. Canal Slip, in River Rouge, accomodates
freighters & ocean ships. From Blast Furnaces (S), white-hot ore travels by ladle
cars to foundry & open hearth. Of special int. are Motor, Open Hearth, Steel &
Jlnal Assembly Bldgs, (2) Airport Dr. near Oakwood Blvd., Edison Institute of Tech-
nology, which incl. Institute, Mus. & Greenfield Amer. Village. Mus. has 5 main
sees., housed in reprods. of Independence, Congress & Old City Halls, of Philadel-
phia; special trans, exhibit. From Institute (E) is Greenfield Village (O.sm.fee.most
bldgs.O.), early Amer. town with central green around which are old Inn, from
Clinton, Mich.; Chapel of Martha-Mary (Col.); Brick Sch., with 19th-cent. furniture;
Logan County Cm. (1840) where Lincoln practiced law; town hall, post office, &
store. Other bldgs. are: Cotswolds Shepherds' Cottages (17th cent.); Edison Bldgs.,
incl. Menlo Pk. Laboratory; McGuffey Group, incl. birthpl., sch. & smokeh. (3)
Ford & Greenfield Rds., Henry Ford BirthpL (4) 22734 Mich. Ave., Haigh HL (1833.
Col.).
13. INKSTER. 15. ELOISE INFIRMARY & HOSPITAL (mental). 17. WAYNE,
residential & industrial community. 25. J. with Expressway. Hy. forks.
SIDE TRIP: On Byp.112 (L) to Willow Ron Airport & Aeronautical Research Center of
Univ. of Mich. & Kaiser-Frazer Corp. Plant From Dec., 1941, until end of Oct. 1945,
Willow Run Plant was largest single mfg. operation ever housed under 1 roof. Ford
Motor Co. built world's largest bomber plant in 94 working days. In Jan., 1947, Univ. of
Mich, was granted deed to the properties, with portions reserved for Kaiser-Frazer &
Packard companies. Airport is leased to Airlines Nat. Terminal Serv. Co. Univ.'s research
program is available to students in College of Engineering; supersonic wind tunnel. Bomber
Plant (tours) is leased by Kaiser-Frazer Corp.
29.5, WSILANIT, seat of Mich. St. Normal College, oldest teacher-training insti-
tution in Midwest, & of Cleary College (est 1883). City was named by Judge Wood-
ward (see above) for Gen. Demetrios Ypsilanti, hero of Greek War for Independence.
It is trade center for rich agric. area & has several important industries. Many 19th-
cent Hs. & 100-yn-old trees, especially along Huron R., give city great charm.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Along Brower St. is campus of Mich. St. Normal College & (2),
at Forest & Cross St., Pease Auditorium; Bach Festival (Mar.). (3) Cross & Summit
Sts., Ypsilanti Mon., made in Athens. (4) 218 N. Washington St. Ladies Literary
Clufoh. (1842.Gr.Rev.by Arden Ballard). (5) 1885 Packard Rd., Breakey Farmh.
(1830.Gr.Rev.).
TRIPS OUT OF DETROIT 557
IIL DETROIT <NW) to PONHAC. 25. LJS10.
Via: Ferndale, BirmiQghain & Bloomfield Hills.
US10, the Saginaw TrL, follows Woodward Ave. (N) to 9. CITY LIMITS (called
Eight Mile Rd.). 10. FERNDALE, attractive suburb. 10,5. PLEASANT RIDGE.
11. J. with Ten Mile Rd., which leads (L) a short way to Detroit Zoological Pk.
(piaparking). Beyond J, is J. with Rd. (R) into Royal Oak, residential community,
11.5. HUNTMGTON WOODS, highly restricted. 12. SHRINE OF THE LITTLE
FLOWER (1931-33.by Henry McGill), publicized by Rev. Chas. E. Coughlin. 17.5.
BIRMINGHAM, suburban city with many fine Hs. 19. J. with Lone Pine Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Lone Pine Rd. (W) 1.5m to Cranbrook Foundation (grounds O ) widely
known for Institute of Science as well as for Cranforook Sch. (boys) & Kingswood Scfe.
(girls). The 300-a. estate & large endowment are gifts of Ellen S. & Geo. G. Booth, formerly
pres. of "Detroit News." Except for Christ Ch. (Episc.Fr.Goth.by Goodhue) & part of
Brookside Sell., all bldgs. were designed by Eliel Saarinen, eminent Finnish architect, now
pres. of Cranbrook Academy of Art (O). Orpheus Fountain (by Carl MiUes).
20.5. BLOOMFIELD HELLS, a city of half-acre or larger estates. Just beyond is J.
with Opdyke Rd., which leads (E) half-mile to St Hugo of the Hills (early Eng.1936.
by Arthur Des Rosiers).
25. PONITAC
Through RR. & bus. Mun. Airport. Good accoms. Many resorts, st recr. areas &
colonies on Ls. in vie.
Pontiac, named for Ind. chief, is Mick's 6th city & important automotive center.
Settlement was begun in 1818, & by 1837 sawmills, flour mills & other industries
were creating a prosperous town. Pontiac Spring Wagon Works was est. in 1880's, &
in 1907, the Oakland Motor Car Co. ushered in automobile age. Among large
plants are Fontiac, Fisher Body, & G.ML Truck & Coach, Oakland Cty. is famous
for 400 Ls. (resorts.camp.summer & winter sports). In vie. are Bald Ml, Highland,
Island L. & Proud L. Recr. Areas.
IV. DETROIT (W. & S.) to GROSSE ILE c.18. W. Jefferson Ave. & Van Horn *d.
Via: River Rouge, Ecorse, Wyandotte, Trenton.
Downriver area is rich in hist, in geological deposits & industrial developments. It
was once favored campground of Wyandotte (or Huron) Inds., & Cadillac explored
reg. in 1701. Chief Pontiac held council on Grosse lie. Stratified deposits of salt,
dolomite, siliceous sand & other nonmetallic minerals are responsible for industrial
developments.
W. Jefferson Ave. follows roughly the Detroit R. 5. RIVER ROUGE. Great Lakes
Engineering Works. Just beyond R. is U.S. Gypsum Want 6.5. ECORSE, known
during Prohibition period as chief port of entry for liquor from Canada, a gangsters*
capital on waterfront, with bullet-proof boatwells. Great Lakes Steel Plant. 8.5.
WYANDOTTE, most important downriver city; nat. center for alkali & related
products. First Bessemer steel in Amer. was manufactured in Wyandotte (1884).
13. TRENTON (plotted in 1827) shared industrial development of Detroit Elizabeni
Pk. (pic.recr.facils.). Wayne Cty. Tourist Lodge (trlrs.laundry.lunchroom). 17. Tour
turns (E) on Van Horn Rd. to Grosse He, largest I. in Detroit R.; independent town-
ship, exclusively residential. Its high, wooded shores attracted Inds., explorers &
missionaries. Cadillac deeded it to his daughter, but in 1711 his lands were con-
fiscated by Brit Gov. PTS. OF INT.: ILS. Naval Base & Grosse He Airport (O.appl.).
St James Eplsc. Ch. (Goth.in wood.by Gordon W. Lloyd). little Cote (VictGoth.
1856).
V. DETROIT (NW) to BRIGHTON. 40. US16. Via: Farmington & New Hudson.
US16 follows Grand River Ave., trl. of Inds., trappers, & 19th-cent tourists. 16. J.
with Inkster Rd., which leads (R) l m to Ford Republic, named for Emory L. Ford;
similar to Children's Village, N.Y. Beyond J. is Botsford Tavern (O.meals.1836),
white clapboarded farmh. bought & rest by Henry Ford in 1924. In 1841 it was
Sixteen Mile H. for stagecoach patrons. 18. MICBL CHILDREN'S HOSPITAL (est.
1918), in beautiful setting. 18.5. LA SALLE WINERY (O.wks.). 19. FARMING-
TON, sett by Quakers in 1824. Quaker Cemetery. Log Cabin (1824). Gov. Warner H.
(1860. Viet). 25* NOVL J. with Novi Rd., which leads (N) 2 m to Walled L M popular
resort; & (S) 4^ to NorthviUe. Win. Maybmy Sanitarium (tuberculosis). 32. NEW
HUDSON. Hotel (1831).
558 SAULT SEE. MARIE, MICHIGAN
SIDE TRIP: On Milford Rd. (N) 6m to Milford in recr. area. Rd, leads (W) 11 to G.M.
Proving Grounds (tours).
38.5. J. with US23 (see). US16 borders Island L. Recr. Area. 40. BRIGHTON, cen-
ter of resort country.
VL DETROIT (NE) to MOUNT CLEMENS. 36.5. E. Jefferson Ave. & St29.
Via: Grosse Poiate & St. Clair Shores.
This beautiful route follows Detroit R. to limits at Alter Rd., where 5 Grosse Pte.
& other lakeshore communities begin, the "Gold Coast' of Detroit. 10. GRC&SE
POINTE PARK, largest of group; on site of battle bet. French & Ind. allies of Bnt.,
in 1712 The French est. their mile-long ribbon farms extending down to L. St.
Clair which became a scene of carnival in winter, with sleigh parties over the ice
to gala temporary taverns. In city of GROSSE POINTE is Grosse Pointe Club
(NO) oldest in St. (1897). 13.5. GROSSE POINTE FARMS, oldest shore settle-
ment; has some of most impressive estates. Dodge H. (Tudor by Smith, Hinchman &
Grylls) fabulous castle left unfinished in 1929. 32. Lake Shore Rd., Alger H.
Branch of Detroit Institute of Arts (tours & tea on appl.); reprod. of Florentine villa;
Ital Ren & modern art colls. Foot of Vernier Rd., Grosse Pointe Yacht Club (1929.
mod.Venetian.by Richmond & Morgan). 15.5. GROSSE POINTE SHORES; no
business sec 1100 Lake Shore Dr., Edsel Ford Estate. The H. (1928.Eng.Cotswold.
by Albert Kahn) is not visible from hy. 16. GROSSE POINTE WOODS. Here tour
follows Lake Shore Dr. 21.5. ST. CLAIR SHORES. 36.5. MOUNT CLEMENS
(bus large hotels.bathhs.tourist accoms.), widely known health & summer resort on
Clinton R, G.T. RR. Sta. where Thos. Edison worked as a boy. Moravian Dr.
SAULT STE. MARIE
CAT TT T tUTTi 1 A/f A "UTT7
Portage Ave & Magazine St., RR. Terminal Sta. Greyhound other bus lines. On
Ashmun Hill, Mun. Airport. Water St. piers for steamship lines; ferry to Sault Ste
Marie Ont & Sugar I. Excursions through Locks. Hotels, rooms & camps. Yr.-round
ice-skating at Pullman Stadium. Winter Sports Carnival & Herring-Choker Jamboree
(Jan or Feb.); Smelt Jamboree (May); Ice Revue (Aug.). Info.: C of C, Hotel Ojibway
Bldg.
Sault Ste Marie, gateway to Canada & tourist starting pt, was America's "No. 1
Military Target" in World War II, as nearly 90% of iron ore for ammunition passed
through the Locks, greatest artery of marine commerce in world. Soo is also 1st
permanent white settlement in Mich. & 3rd-oldest surviving in U.S. Important plants
are Union Carbide & Carbon Corp., Mich. Northern Power Co., Northwestern
Leather Co. & Cadillac Soo Lumber Co. Etienne Brule (1618) & Jean Nicolet (1634)
were probably 1st white men to see rush of L. Superior waters over sandstone &
granite ledges in St. Mary's R. At falls, the Chippewa (or Ojibway) had one of most
populous Ind villages in U.S. area (2,000). In 1638, Radisson & Groseilliers brought
fur trade to L. Superior, & in 1668 Pere Marquette built 1st Christian Ch. in N.W.
Terr. Louis XIV held possession from 1671 until Brit raised Union Jack in 1761.
It was 1820 before Gov. Lewis Cass hauled it down again. Ft. Brady was built in
1822. Soo was important post of Amer. Fur Co., & Fr.-Canadian voyageurs braved
L. Superior in 40' canoes. Grace L. Nute (in "Lake Superior"), describes these
debonair & haughty men in long bright sashes, singing their paddling songs. State,
in 1855, built ship canal with aid of Congress. Weitzel Lock (destroyed in const, of
MacArthur Lock) was built bet 1870 & 1881. With the RRs. (middle 1880's) &
building of modern locks, "the remotest settlement in the U.S., if not in the moon"
rapidly became a brisk & colorful port. L. Superior whitefish, which Mrs. Jameson
(1837) called "most delicious luxury that swims the waters," the muskellunge, trout
& herring make reg. inviting to sportsmen & commercial fishermen.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Locks at St. Mary's Rapids. MacArthur Lock (800M943), Poe
Lock (800'.1896). Davis (1914) & Sabin (1919), twin locks. Canadian Lock (900'.
1895). (2) Head of Rapids, Compensating Dam, to regulate level of Gt. Ls. (3)
Internal RR. Bridge (1887), probably largest jack-knife bridge in world. (4) South
St. & Ryan Ave., Ft Brady, occupied by Sault Tech., branch of Mich. College of
Mining (see US41). Ft., reconst in 1890's, was in continuous use 150 yrs.; enlarged
during World War II. (5) Gov. Pk.; fine view. (6) Brady Pk., landing place of early
TRIPS OUT OF SAULT STE, MAJRIE 559
missionaries. Repentigny Mon. on site of Fr. ft. (1750) & orig. site of Ft Brady
(1822). (7) Armory PL, bet. Kimbail & Bingham Sts., Pub. Lib.; hist mus. (8) Foot
of Bingham Ave., Site of Marquette's Mission. (9) 413 Water St., John Johnston H.
(1795), home of fur trader who married Chippewa woman; father-in-law of Henry
R. Schoolcraft (10) On Union Carbide Co. grounds, Schoolcraft Ind. Agency
(1826-27.remod.). Schoolcraft was 1st Ind agent at Soo, & his research into lore of
Manabozho was basis of Longfellow's "Hiawatha." (11) Sugar L (ferry.stores.guides.
licenses.rooms.cabins.restaurant). (12) Munuscong (resort), (S) 23 m on Munuscong
TRIPS OUT OF SAULT STE MARIE
I. By ferry to SAULT STE MARIE, 0NT. (see Detroit: How to enter Canada),
larger of the twin cities; center of Algoma Reg. (f.h.resorts), Hudson's Bay Co.
Biockh. & Ft St Joseph Ruins.
H. SAULT STE MARIE (S) to ST. IGNACE. 53. US2
19. KINROSS (airport). 24. RUDYARD, one of Eng. poet's "sons in Mich." J. with
St.48.
SIDE TRIP: On St.48 (W) 26m to Trout L. (f.h.hotels.good meals). Carp L. (hotels) is
(W) in deer & bird country; Wildflower Festival
27.5, MARQUETTE NAT. FOR. (see St.28). 48. J. with Rd. to Rabbit's Back; view.
50. CASTLE ROCK (sm.fee). 53. ST. IGNACE (see US2). Ferry across Straits.
HI. SAULT STE MARIE (S) & (W) to DRUMMOND I. 60. St.129 & S148
Via: (Neebish L), Pickford, (Cedarville & Les Cheneaux), De Tour. Trip describes
routes to 3 important resorts. Drummond L & Les Cheneaux are accessible also from
St. Ignace.
16. J. with Rd. to Neebish L ferry.
SIDE TRIP: On Rd. (E) 5m to Barbean (cottage camps.restaurants.boats). 8 Ferry to
Neebish I. (f.guides.boats.licenses.telephone.stores.cabins).
27. J. with St.48, on which trip turns (E).
SIDE TRIP: On Stl29 (S) 37m to Cedarville, starting pt. for very popular Les Cheneawx
(boat.serv.from near-by towns.regular schedules from Mackinaw City & St Ignace).
Narrow protected channels of gleaming water separate 35 wooded & romantically beautiful
Is. (all kinds of accoms. & facils on mod.resorts). Waters are famous for lake trout, black
bass, pike & perch.
55. CARIBOU L. (f .beaches). 59. DE TOUR, at turning pt of Great Ls. commerce,
where St. Mary's R. empties into L. Huron, one of most dangerous passages on Ls.
(accoms.tourist serv.guides.boats.). Ferry to DRUMMOND L, 1st of Is. along
Canada's Algoma reg. (resorts.cottages.camp.boats.guide & other serv.). Dram-
mond, only village, is on Potagannissing Bay, breeding ground for game fish.
IV. SAULT STE MARIE (E) & (N) to WHTTEFISH PT. 76. On main hys., St.26,
St. 123 & other Rds. St.28 unites for a few miles with US2. 8. St.28 branches (W).
16. J. with St.221.
SIDE TRIP: On St.221 (N) 2m to Brimky (hotels.cabins.supplies.f.equipment) & Brimley
St Pk. Scenic hy. leads (N) 4^ to Bay Mills Ind. Mission (visitors welcome) & village of Bay
Mills (f.boats.guides.supplies).
St.28 runs through Marqnette St For. 38. J. with St.123, on which trip cent (N).
SIDE TRIP: On St.28 (W) llm to "Falls" sign: (N) 2m on Rd. to Soo Junction, where
trolley conns, with boat (daily in season) on Tahquamenon R. (canoe trl.) to Upper Falls.
Water tumbles 40' down face of cliff into R. where Hiawatha sailed his birch canoe after 1
Kwasind, the strong man, had cleared away the sandbars. Tabqnamenon Falls St Pk.,
more than 2,000 as. of wilderness; trls. & logging Rds.
St.123 cont. (N) through Tahquamenon Swamp, once scene of large-scale lumber-
ing, now resort & sportsman's country. 40. ECKEKMAN (f.h.cabins.supplies.
licenses.winter sports.airplane landing). 57. EMERSON, commercial f. village near
mouth of R. on Whitefish Bay; sandy beach for many miles. Boat (daily in season)
for 18 m trip to lovely Tahquamenon Lower Falls, a drop of 40' or more over 3
levels (lodge.tower.cabins.restaurant.pic.camp.swim.h.f.). 63. PARADISE (cabins.
cottages.restaurant.stores.f.h.swim. winter sports). Rd. runs (W) ll m to Lower Falls.
66. SHELLDRAKE (hoteLstore), blueberry country (late summer until frost). 74.5*
WHITEFISH PT. P. O. (est 1899). 76. WHITEFISH FT. LIGHIH. (1900); deep-sea
trolling.
560 US 2 WISCONSIN
US 2 WISCONSIN
WIS.-MICH* LINE (at Ironwood, Mich.) (W) to MINN. LINE (at Duluth, Minn.)
Via: Ashland, (Bayfield), Superior, Chi. & N.W. RR. bet Hurley & Ashland; N.P. RR.
bet. Ashland & Superior. Accoms.: In cities; tourist camps & cabins en route.
US2, northernmost E.-W. hy., crosses from Mich, line to Superior, where it cont.
on its transcontinental route to Seattle.
0. J. with US51. 1.5. HURLEY (see US51). The Penokee-Gogebic Iron Range can
be seen W. of the hy. 11. SAXON, former lumbertown. Surrounding farms belong
to the poorest of st. 13.5. LAKE VIEW CEMETERY from which good view of
Oconto Bay (S) & the Apostle Is. (N) in L. Superior. 18. Hy. touches BAD RIVER
IND. RESERV., home for 1,375 Chippewa. Toward (N) are Kakagan Sloughs, one
of largest natural game preserves in Wis. It is home of the wall-eyed pike. Wild rice
gathered here provides food & income for the Inds.
39 ASHLAND (4 RR. terminals here). Its 1st settlement in 1665 consisted of crude
ft 'erected by 6 Frenchmen & bark chapel by Father Allouez, who labored among
the Iroquois for 4 yrs. & then had to abandon mission to Father Marquette, who
after 2 yrs. finally closed it Two hundred yrs. later, town became an important
shipping pt. for lumber, coal & iron ore. Geological surveys showed that entire
Penokee-Gogebic Range had deposits of iron ore. By 1872 all of upper Wis. was
caught in the mining fever. Boom lasted until 1887 when the crash brought down
values & prices. Large paper mills ship their products to the E. & W. coasts, & mil-
lions of tons of iron ore are sent to lower lakes. Ashland is home of Northland
College. In Ashland is J. with SL13.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) hy. passes coal docks & skirts Chequamegon Bay on its way
to tip of Wis. At llm, Washbura, many of whose bldgs. are of reddish-brown stone, quar-
ried near-by. *Rd. soon touches Chequamegon Bay. 23m Bayfield, named for Adm. Henry
Bayfield of Brit. Navy who surveyed Gt. Ls., 1823. Its commercial fisheries rank 1st among
L. Superior's ports; it ships annually about 6 million Ibs. of fish. City is best known for
its lake-trout fishing in 150' deep water. Strong gear is needed for these gamey fish. The
harbor is usually supplied with boats that can be rented by the day, & incl. licensed pilot.
Excursion boats leave Bayfield daily in summer for La Pointe on Madeleine L, largest of
Apostle Is , lying off Bayfield. There are 22 Is. despite their name, ranging from Madeleine,
the largest 14m long to many small ones that are inhabited only by wild life. Intricate
& grotesque carvings of the beach are striking examples of wave erosion. La Pointe, pic-
turesque old town, once site of Fr. Fort & Cath. mission, was est. by Allouez, 1665. In
1832, oldest Wis. Protestant Mission was built here. SU3 cont. (N) 3m o n gravel Rd. to
Red Cliff & Red Cliff IndL Reserv., where 689 La Pointe Chippewa subsist, past fishing
villages & Finnish settlements.
As US2 leaves Ashland the cities of Washburn & Barksdale can be seen across
Chequamegon Bay. A natural breakwater is formed by Long Island about 10 m out,
making Ashland one of best L. Mich, harbors. At 55. E. border of CHEQUA-
MEGON NAT. FOR., northernmost div., is reached (hqs. at Park Falls). Here are
hundreds of Ls., pine, spruce & balsam fors.; famous also for muskellunge, pike &
bass fishing. This is blueberry country. The Inds. & transient pickers come from far
& near. 65. IRON RIVER, known to the Inds. as Medicine Springs because of min-
eral waters found here. First white settler arrived 1887, with fine lumber the attrac-
tion. W. of US2 Rd. passes through swampland & marshes & enters Brule River St
For. (7,750 as.; well known for its trout stream). This reg. was Pres. Coolidge's
favorite fishing spot Cleveland & Hoover also fished here & Eisenhower still does.
The Brule, a famous fishing stream, is very popular for canoe trips through virgin
fors. From its source one current can be seen going into the St. Croix on its way to
the Miss. & another current flowing toward L. Superior, the St Lawrence & the
Atlantic Ocean. Country along shore of L. Superior was used by Longfellow as
setting for his poem "Hiawatha." J. with Cty.H.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On Cty. H. (L) is Winiieboujou country, named for legendary Chippewa
god & his grandmother Amik, who because of her disobedience to authority was changed
into a beaver. Her descendants are still busy building dams here.
(B) On Cty. H. (R) 4m is J. with side Rd. On this Rd. (L) is Wis. Co-Op. Pfc* org. by Finnish
people who sett along L. Superior. It contains children's camps, community bldgs.,
kitchens, camp ground; also sport facils. & the "sauna," Finnish steam bath, (see- Minn.)
US 8 WISCONSIN 561
85. POPLAR. J. with Cty.P.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (L) 8m is L. Nebagamon (excellent f.h.&boat) on which is old
Weyerhaeuser estate, now used as camp for Jewish boys.
94. AMICON FALLS.
106. SUPERIOR
Rail, plane & bus conns. Usual accoms.
Superior is Wis.* leading port of entry, situated on S. shore of L. Superior's western
tip, & on Bays of Allouez & St Louis, into which flow the Menadji & St. Louis Rs.
It has 27 m of unexcelled harbor & though ice-locked for 4 months a yr., it, together
with its twin city, Duluth, is next to N.Y. harbor in point of tonnage. It has the
largest group of ore docks & grain elevators in world. Superior is also a RR. center
with 9 RR. systems having terminals there. First white settlers arrived c.1661. Dur-
ing next 100 yrs., Hudson's Bay Co., Northwestern Fur Co. & J. J. Astor's Amer.
Fur Co., in turn, est trading posts here; but 1st permanent settlement was made
only c.l 853. After Minn, legislature made land grants for RR. construction, Superior
was overrun with speculators; but after the panic of 1857, the town of 3,000 dropped
to 1,000; & after the Ind. scare of 1862, only 500 people stayed on. At this stage,
it remained for more than 20 yrs. Iron ore was discovered 1883 in Gogebic Range
& a 2nd boom began. Superior's prosperity dates from then. At turn of cent,
Superior became Wis.' 2nd largest city. It is the Consumer Co-op. Center of U.S.
The People's Co-op. Soc., begun by Finns & Scandinavians, was nucleus of what
is now the full grown co-op, enterprise, incl. in its ranks not only working people,
but professional & business men. Superior is internationally known for this & is
considered by an Eng. Rochdale authority as "Principal center of consumer co-
operatives in the world." There are 1,531,000 consumer co-op, members in U.S.
doing a $260,000,000 volume of business.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) St. Louis Bay, Great Northern Elevator, rising 243', highest
grain elevator in world (1 of 8 in city). (2) 1901 Winter St, Central Co-op. Whole-
sale plant, where Finnish language daily is published. This outstanding Wholesale
includes more than 100 companies & handles 3 to 4 million dollars worth of busi-
ness. (3) 1 1 15 Belknap St., Cathedral of Christ the King (Cath.1927 by Louis Preuss,
replica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome). (4) 18th St. & Grand Ave., Superior St
Teachers College. (5) Foot of 35th Ave. (E), Great Northern Ore-Docks, largest
group of ore-docks in world (shipments in 1947 were 25,800,000 tons). (6) Kmidson
Shipbuilding & Dry-Dock Co., largest dry-dock on L. Superior. City also has horse-
meat factory producing dog food. A 56-mile canoe trip can be started a short dis-
tance outside Superior on the Brule R.
SIDE TRIP: On St.35 (S) 13m is Manitou Falls (165') in Pattison St Pk. (1,143 as.).
US 8 WISCONSIN
WIS.-MICH. LINE (at Norway, Mich.) (W) to W&-MINN. ONE (at Taylors
Falls, Minn.). 262. US8,
Via: Crandon, Rhinelander, Prentice, Ladysmith, St. Croix Falls. M., St. P. & S. S. M.
RR. parallels route throughout Accoms.: In resort reg.; in central part of St. limited
to larger towns.
US8 beginning at Menominee R., natural Wis.-Mich. border, it passes through vast
stretches of cut-over & abandoned land, as well as through resort territory amid the
beautiful L. & for. country of the "North."
US8 & US 141 travel as 1 route for 14. to PEMBINE. Here US8 turns sharply (W)
to cross the st. It passes deserted farms & lumber towns, & at 48* begins its cut
through NICOLET NAT. FOR- (see US45), emerging near Argonne (pronounced
Ar-go'-ne by the villagers who named it thus because its 7 recruits for World War I
died in Argonne For., France). Hy. turns (S) & at 70. reaches CRANDON (see
US45). It again turns (W), passing MONICO JUNCTION at 82., a RR. connecting
sta. (A few miles in any direction from these towns brings one to fish-stocked lakes.)
96. RHINELANDER (see US45). 149. PRENTICE, both a recr. center & important
dairy spot Pastures become richer along the way. FLAMBEAU R. is crossed at
192. Here Old Abe, the Wis. eagle, was captured. He became mascot for the 8th
Wis. Infantry & went into Civil War battles with it, screaming & spreading his wings
as soon as he heard the bugle. The reg.'s golden age of logging was in the 70's. Fred
5*2 US 12 WISCONSIN
Weyerhaeuser, German immigrant, who became greatest of lumber kings, began
operations here in 1864. Town of WEYERHAEUSER, 206., was named after him.
In 1870 he org. the Miss. R. Logging Co., most important lumber syndicate of the
time. He built & gradually owned the RRs. & everything connected with lumbering,
6 sawed his way through Wis. & Minn. In 1900 he bought a million acres of the
richest timber lands in Ore. & Wash. After he left the Northwpods, activities slowed
down & the lumberjacks gradually disappeared, leaving behind them a rich Paul
Bunyan lore. Scandinavians who settled here gave the legendary Bunyan a logging
crew of NorsemenBig Ole, Criss Crosshaul, Axel Axelson, Hels Helson & Shot
Gunderson all were powerful & adept & became more so with each story. US8
at 215. finds itself in very rich agric. land amid the blue & purple BARRON HILLS
(600'). In vie. are important butter-producing farms. Rd. runs past CAMERON at
216., sm. town that came into prominence through exploits of John Dietz, "defender
of Cameron Dam." In 1906 Dietz's crop had been ruined by flooding, for which
Chippewa Log & Boom Co. was responsible. After appealing to them repeatedly
for redress but to no avail he & his sons kept the company's workers off ^ the premises
with shotguns. A sm. band of 60 men & the sheriff surrounded the Dietz farm for
7 days & finally besieged the cabin. Dietz & his family kept them at bay for hrs.
until several on both sides were wounded & 1 deputy killed. Dietz was sentenced to
20 yrs. After 15 yrs. he was pardoned by the Gov. but died 3 yrs. later. At Cameron
is J. with US53.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) 7^ to Rice Lake, dairy & resort reg. (good boat. & f. Ls.
near-by). 31m Spooner, shipping center for large but sparsely sett. L. country. St. Fish
Hatchery in vie. Wis. Agric. Experiment Sta. here is working out methods of making the
surrounding" sandy, jack-pine land fertile. From 1843 to 1910 John Coit Spooner, RR. &
lumber baron, lived here while he dominated Wis. politics & finance. Proteg6 of Philetus
Sawyer, he fought against restoring the immense land grants to pub. domain, & won.
Three yrs. after retiring he was made counsel of the collapsing N.P. RR. How he cut
expenses by cutting workmen's wages & then invoking an injunction against the striking
men was a great scandal. Despite it all, & the avowed enmity of Rbt. M. LaFollette, Spooner
got back to U.S. Senate on an anti-Bryan wave.
US8 passes TURTLE L. at 237. Surrounding territory is developed to the maximum,
agriculturally & recreationally. At 258.5. CAMPING GROUND (L) & at 262. is
ST. CROTX FALLS, lumber village, home of Ray Stannard Baker, who wrote under
pen-name of David Grayson. His most famous work is biography of Woodrow Wil-
son. To the (L) is Interstate Pk. (780 as.;camp.pic.facils.bath.), oldest Wis. St. Pk. It
contains int. geologic formations, such as Devil's Chair & the Old Man of the Dalles,
thought by Chippewa to be their mythical giant hero, Winneboujou. Hy. here crosses
Interstate Bridge (free) to Minn.
US 12 WISCONSIN
WIS.-ILL. LINE (2 m from Richmond, HI.) (NW) to WIS.-MINN. LINE (14m from
St. Paul, Minn.). 339. US12
Via: Lake Geneva, Madison, Wisconsin Dells, Tomah, Eau Claire, Hudson. Cement
Rd, Excellent accoms.
From BE. cor. of Wis. hy. makes an arc to Minn, line, incl. 2 of st's oldest resort
areas: Lake Geneva & Wis. Dells. Hy. crosses 111. line at 0. & hits LAKE GENEVA
(resort) at 9. (see Milwaukee Trip VI). 18. ELKHORN (resort town), founded 1837.
Lack of water power & main-line communication kept it from becoming prosperous
until c.1900. Many retired farmers live here now. It is home of Holton Musical
Instrument Co., N. Church St. Hymn, "Sweet Bye & Bye," was composed here by
Jos. P. Webster & S. F. Bennett. At Elkhorn is J. with St.15.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (SW) 6m to Delavan, named for the temperance leader (1793-
1871) who planned it to be a temperance colony, but plan fell through. Around 1850 Ed.
& Jerry Mabie of N.Y. had their circus here & most of the villagers were in some way
connected with it
36. WHITEWATER (see Madison Trip IV). FT. ATKINSON at 47. In Riverside
Pk. is Panther Intaglio (Ind. burial spot; excavated instead of mound shaped) (see
Madison Trip IV). 82. MADISON (see). 105. SAUK CITY & PRAIRIE DU SAC.
Here is J. with St.78.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (NE) 10^ to Merrimac. Here is free ferry across Wis. R. Near
Merrimac on St.78, is Din-ward's Glen (closes at 8 p.m.). Here (L) is novitiate of Camillian
US 41 WISCONSIN 563
Fathers consisting of log cabin & chapel (1935.O.services daily); (R) trl. leads to home &
studio of Bernard Isaac Durward & his son Chas., artists.
119. J. with St. 159 leading to Devil's L. St Pk. (see Madison). 122. (3= to (R)
Bamboo, see Madison Trip IH). 131. WISCONSIN DELLS (see Madison Trip HI) S
one of most picturesque regs. in country. 164. CAMP DOUGLAS. Here is J. with
side Rd. (R) to entrance of Camp Williams Military Reserr. Barracks. Rifle range
& target practice can be watched from Rd. ITS. TOMAH, named for Menominee
chief. Fed. Gov.'s Ind. industrial school here. Beds of Amer. lotus near-by. 207.
CASTLE MOUND PK. (L) (camp.trlr.facils.water; 222 as.). Mound itself is of
castellated rock formation. 209. BLACK R. FALLS. One of 1st sawmills in Wis.
was built here in 1819, & logging conk throughout 19th cent Among earliest set-
tlers were Mormons from Nauvoo. An int. property theory was held by a Mormon
deacon here. He told his "Saints" to clear land & when the owner, Spaulding, re-
monstrated, the deacon merely answered that the "wilderness belonged to the Lord."
He urged his flock to go right on clearing & that they need not respect Gentile
boundaries. Spaulding threatened to get military aid from Prairie du Chien. His
strategy was successful & the Mormons finally left, but not without grumbling that
their tormentors were 4< worse than Missourians."
266. EAU CLAIRE
Eau Claire at confluence of Eau Claire & Chippewa Rs., is a commercial & mfg.
leader as well as a rich agric. & dairying center. From the tiny mills & logging
operation of its lusty rivermen it became present & thriving city, with diversified
industries. PTS. OF INT.: On Eau Claire R., GUlett Tire Plant of U.S. Rubber Co.,
whose bldgs. occupy more than 3 blocks, & whose capacity is 14,000 tires a day.
Carson Pk. juts out into Half Moon L. In it is Paul Bunyan Logging Camp Mus.
(O.free), fine replica of the old lumbering days of northern Wis, First caterpillar
tractor to haul lumber was used in Eau Claire in 1861. Early models were steam
propelled. City also has an excellent St Teachers CoHege, Here is J. with US53
leading (NE) 10 m to Chippewa Falls where Fr.-Canadians & Ind. lumberjacks began
the 1st mill in 1836.
294. MENOMONBE is home of Stoat Institute, only college in country devoted
entirely to training of teachers in Home Economy, Industrial & Vocational Educa-
tion. It was founded in 1893 by James H. Stout. In 1911 it was taken over by
St & made a coUege with right to grant degrees; in 1935 it granted the M.S. degree.
At Menomonie is J. with St.29.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (SW> 18 is Spring Valley. Another mile (W) is Crystal Care
(O.all yr.guides.fee), Wis.'s only 3-level cave. Grotesque rock formations, petrified wood*
volcanic ash, 22 rooms containing rare onyx & crystals; fossils of molluscs a million yrs.
old; hundreds of living stalactites. (5m from the cave is modem motel with gas heat &
baths; good trout streams in vie.)
At 339. US12 crosses MINN. LINE.
US 41 WISCONSIN
WIS.-ILL. LINE (49m from Chicago) (N) to WIS.-MICH. LINE (at Menominee,
Mich.). 224. US41
Via: Milwaukee, Fond du Lac, Oshkosh, Appleton, Green Bay, Oconto, & Marinette,
RRs. parallel route. Concrete Rd. Many camp sites & ample accoms.
US41 crosses HL Line at 0. & heads for MILWAUKEE (see) at 37. Hy. crosses city
on S. 27th St to W. Lisbon Ave. which it follows out of town. Then it runs through
a reg. of rich farm land, settled mainly by Germans during 1st half of 19th cent.,
& reaches MENOMONEE FALLS at 48. (For Menomonee Falls, Richfield, Slinger
& towns up to Fond du Lac, see Milwaukee Trip IV.) Here is J. with St.55 which
travels along E. side of L. Winnebago & conn, with Neenah-Menasha & Appleton.
100. FOND DU LAC. South J. with US45, an alternate which travels along L,
Winnebago for 21 m while US41 passes N. FOND DU LAC at 103. & VAN DYNE
at 109. At 113. North J. with US45. The 2 hys. follow 1 route along the L.
119. OSHKOSH (RR., plane & bus conns.).,
Oshkosh on L. Winnebago is an important industrial center, & home of well-known
Oshkosh B'Gosh Overalls, nationally-known trunks, & world famous axles. From
564 US 41 WISCONSIN
being largest woodworking city of the reg. it developed into one of varied enter-
prises. It is also a resort city, noted for unexcelled fish., boat., hunt. & winter sports,
especially ice-boat. & ice-fish. City has winding & irregular streets & 4 bridges that
open for most tugs & freighters. Its pop. is a mixture of old-world descendants, but
only German-Russians & Poles who arrived bet. 1890 & 1910 have remained closely-
knit groups.
Father Jean Claude Allouez 1st landed here in 1670 to preach to Inds. Many yrs.
passed until Augustin Grignon & Jacques Porlier set up trading post in 1818 near
present-day Butte des Morts, which soon developed into town of Algoma. In 1837
after Inds. had given up the right to land N. of Fox R., a sm. group of Yankees
started a community & called it Athens. While lumber industry was developing,
Algoma & Athens were rivals. When Athens received a P.O., it was renamed Osh-
kosh, in honor of the Menominee Chief. Both towns grew & remained rivals untU
1853 when Algoma was inc. into Oshkosh. Boat-building boomed & remained im-
portant industry. Revival of activity followed Civil War, but town was practically
destroyed 4 times by fire & finally was rebuilt of brick & stone. Logging went on
unabated, mfg. mills were set up, & Oshkosh became leading sash-&-door center
of U.S. In 1898 a serious labor struggle took place when woodworkers struck against
employment of women & children. Strike was broken by Nat. Guards from Mil-
waukee & leaders were arrested. Only the eloquence of Clarence Darrow got them
acquitted. Oshkosh continued rough lumber mfg. long after Neenah & Menasha
had to give it up for lack of timber. The Fox-Winnebago waterway, responsible for
its early development, still contributes to its present-day industry & recr.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Cor. Algoma Blvd. & Jackson Dr., Winnebago County Cttu
(1938.mod.limestone.by Granger & Bollenbacher), with bas-reliefs by Alphonso
lanelli. (2) Algoma Blvd. bet. College & Forest Aves., St Teachers College (Coll.
Goth.1918), (3) Algoma Blvd. & W. Algoma St, Pub. Mus. (1908 by Wm.Waters,
Eng.Goth.); contains hist, relics of reg. & fine art coll. (4) Algoma Blvd. & Congress
St, Natibu Paine H. (Tudor Goth.). (5) W. Algoma St & Fox R., Paine Lumber
Plant, remnant of what once was largest sash & door factory in world. (6) Wash-
ington Blvd. & Lake Shore Dr., Carl Schurz Mon. by Karl Bitter. (7) Hazel St., bet.
Merritt St. & New York Ave., Menominee Pk. (swim.boat), where Allouez 1st said
mass in 1670. In it is Statue of Chief Oshkosh, "who never lifted a hand against the
white man."
Hy. leaves town by N. Main St, turns (L) at Murdock St. to L with US45. As
1 route they head N. 127. US41 branches (R) & at 130. reaches NEENAH &
MENASHA, twin cities on both sides of L. Winnebago channel. They are noted
for their big paper mills. First sawmill was built 1849. By 1857 Menasha was known
as hardwood market of this reg. while Neenah became a flour-milling city. When
wheat growing declined, Neenah turned to paper making. It now has 11 mills, 2
large & several smaller plants connected with the paper-making industry; also more
than 60 other industrial plants. Doty L, lying in the channel bet. 2 cities, was named
for James D. Doty, speculator & 1st terr. Gov. of the island he had acquired in
1830. Nicplet Blvd. now divides the island. On Neenah's half is Grand Loggery (O),
loghouse in which Doty entertained prominent Inds. & other notables. On Menasha
side are "3 Ind. Effigy Mounds. In 1835 Gov. built a sawmill, gristmill & houses for
the Inds. here. But Menominee tore up the dwellings & built lodges instead. The
next yr. they ceded the land to U.S. Not only Menominee but also Winnebago &
Fox occupied this sec. when Jon. Carver passed through in 1766 & stopped over as
guest of Ho-po-ko-ekan, heroine of Wm. Ellery Leonard's "Glory in the Morning."
From Neenah-Menasha hy. cont N.
138. APPLETON
RR., plane & bus conns. Ample accoms.
Appleton on rapids of Fox R. is both an industrial city & college town. It is home
of Lawrence College, founded 1848 as Meth. sch. of Grand Chute, then part of
Appleton. From a sm. denominational sch., it has grown to a thriving coed, college
with all advantages of a mod. Univ. Appleton owes its industrial growth mainly
to hydroelectric power developed by Fox R. Falls, & boasts the 1st hydroelectric
plant in world (replica of the orig. O.). City had one of 1st street-car lines in U.S.
Appleton's 1st 2 industries are still its most important ones. When wheat production
declined, flour milling was replaced by pulp & paper industry. The Institute of Paper
US 41 WISCONSIN 565
Chemistry (1929) is grad. sch. for scientific work in this fairly new field, & conducts
important research. Appleton was birthpl. & home of Harry Houdini (1874-1926),
famous magician. Edna Ferber spent many of her formative yrs. there & made it
setting for some of her novels & short stories. PTS. OF INT.: At S. end of Mason
St. is Alicia Pk. where is preserved century-old mansion of Hippolyte Grignon, 1st
settler of Appleton.
Sec. 2: APPLETON to MARINETTE B6.
3. N. of Appleton, US41 turns E. 8. LITTLE CHUTE, in which are Kimberley
Clark Paper Mills. 10. KAUKAUNA, former portage, used by early traders to
avoid Fox R. Falls. In 1st legal transaction of the St., Dominique Ducharme bought
this tract from Inds. for 2 bbls. of rum (1793). By 1875 farming was carried on
extensively & now dairy products are chief income. From Tobanoir St. (R) is
Grignon H. (1838.intinter.) built by Augustin Grignon, grandson of Chas. de Lang-
lade. 30. DEPERE, site of St. Francis Xavier Mission, 1st Jesuit mission on Fox
R., est. 1671, by Father Claude Allouez, whose hqs. it became. From here, Mar-
quette & Joliet set out on their voyage of discovery. First Gov. dam was built in
1836 & tremendous land speculation followed; however, town had a serious setback,
when in 1847 a storm swept the dam down the R. Present dam which furnishes
power for DePere & near-by towns, was built in 1849 as part of a project designed
to conn, L. Mich. & the Miss. R. DePere is home of St Norberf s College (non-
sectarian).
31. GREEN BAY
4 major RRs. serve city. Plane & bus conns. Usual accoms.
Green Bay, oldest settlement of Wis. at S. end of Green Bay, has one of best L.
harbors. It is open from Ap. to Dec. making it a key link in Gt Ls. traffic. Jean
Nicolet was Gov. of New France c.1634, but not until Father Allouez founded the
Jesuit mission in 1669 did reg. around the Fox become important. Marquette &
Joliet crossed the portage on their way to the Miss. La Baye, as the post then was
called, became a natural meeting ground for all interested in the abundant furs of
this reg., which for 200 yrs. ^ were the accepted currency. Nicholas Perrot, one of
most brilliant men in NW. history, was Gov. in 1684. He made profitable alliances
with Inds., thereby raising Fox-Wis. reg. to most important in New France. Then
came Fox-Ind. wars & Perrot's diplomatic policy was followed by a military policy,
but by 1740, the Fox were practically subdued, & permanent settlers arrived Among
them was Augustine de Langlade, whose gentle manners & understanding of the
Inds., coupled with honesty & justice brought about complete cooperation with the
Menominee & gave to him & his friends control of trade & commerce during Fr. &
Bri. regime.
In 1783 the NW. was officially declared U.S. territory, but Fr. & Bri. traders made
fur exchanges difficult for independent Amer. traders. In War of 1812 many Green
Bayers became officers in Br. Army. However, J. J. Astor started Amer. Fur Co., &
soon controlled greater portion of trade. He found it politic to form a trade assoc.
with the early Fr. citizens. Ft. Howard at Green Bay was built at Astor's request
for protection & until 1836 peltrving flourished. Black Hawk's defeat, & the "easy
water-way'* from the Gt. Ls. through the bay & Fox R. to the Miss, again made
Green Bay important, this time as a trading center for flour & lumber. Around
1910 dairying & paper making, building materials, & iron & steel industries were
principal sources of income. Cheese is leading product of this area is 3/5 of
nation's cheese output Next to Milwaukee, Green Bay is largest jobbing & whole-
sale center in st.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 1008 S. Monroe St, Morgan L. Martin H. (1837-39; Class.Rev.),
known as "Hazelwood." Martin was member of 1st Wis. Constitutional Convention.
(2) Inters, of E. Mason, S. Washington & Adams St., marks Site of 1st Caih. Ch. in
Wis. (1823). (3) 120 S. Jefferson St, KeUogg Pub!. Lib. (neo-classic), containing
rich source material of pioneer days. Neville Mus. (O. 9-12 & 2-5) attached to it,
contains^some of most valuable & oldest relics of Fr. regime in Wis. such as Perrof s
ostensorium (1686) & 22 self-portraits of Geo. Catlin, depicting psychological states
of the Ind. painter. (4) Cherry St., bet. Monroe & Madison, Moravian Ch. (1850).
(5) Walnut & Baird Sts., Green Bay Packers Stadium (games every Sun, from Sept
566 BOOR PENINSULA LOOP TOUR WISCONSIN
to Jan.). The team, one of best professional football teams in U.S., won world's
championship for many yrs. (6) Day & N. Madison Sts., Northern Paper Mills, one
of largest tissue mills in country. (7) N. Chestnut & Kellogg Sts., Ft Howard Hos-
pital & Surgeon's Quarters (O. 10-5; fee; 1816; log & clapboard). (8) 10th Ave. &
5th St., Tank Cottage (O. 10-5; fee; 1776, adds.), oldest house in Wis., one of the
few wattle & daub houses left in Mid- West; built by Francis Roi, Fr. trader. Eng.
officers during War of 1812 gathered here. Mrs. Tank, Dutch wife of the 3rd &
last owner, Nils Tank, a Norweg. Moravian, furnished the altered cottage & adds,
with treasures from her Holland home, which are still to be seen. It now belongs to
Green Bay Hist. Soa (9) On W. bank of Fox R. 12 (S) is Eleazer Williams EL
(c.1820; cabin I 1 /?, stories of squared logs; rest.) built by the self-styled "lost dau-
phin."
Green Bay is starting pt. for a trip to Door Peninsula (see). Here also US41 unites
with US141 to 54., then turns NE. & at 66. reaches OCONTO, former Ind. village &
Fr. mission. Later became lumber center. Ann Arbor Car & Auto Ferry operates bet
Marinette & Frankfort, Mich. On Chicago St., Allouez Cross, comm. founding of
1st Jesuit Mission in E. Wis. (1669). Main & Congress Sts., Nich. Perrot MOBU,
honoring astute Fr. diplomat & trader of the period, who in 1669, took possession
of all Upper Miss. R. for Louis XIV. He died in poverty in Canada. 81. PESHTIGO,
center of one of the worst fires in history (Oct. 8, 1871) more than 1,200 known
dead & 1,500 seriously burned. The raging fire began after 3 month's drought &
swept through 8 counties, destroying more than 2 billion trees (over 1,280,000 as.).
Death toll was 5 times that of Chicago Fire which happened the same night & the
country was hardly aware of the great disaster. While the nation's newspapers
shouted about the Chicago fire, the few existing telegraph lines in the North had
been destroyed. It took 5 wks. for the news to get around. Town now is a hive of
resort activity.
88. MARINETTE, on Mich, line, named for a Menominee chiefs daughter, who
became one of most noted fur traders of the NW., was founded (1795) as a trading
post by Stanislaus Chappu, Amer. Fur Co. agent Panic of 1857 & Civil War ruined
lumber business that had grown up. It was begun again, but after 1900 the timber
stands were depleted. Only 2 out of 27 mills survived. City got a fresh start & rebuilt
with diversified industries. Annually when the smelts run, city declares a holiday.
At night, the R. banks are ablaze with bonfires. The climax of the carnival takes
place at Interstate bridge (bet. Wis. & Mich.), where the Smelt Queen is crowned.
Winter sports are excellent on the bay, especially skate-sailing & ice-boating.
DOOR PENINSULA LOOP TOUR WISCONSIN
GREEN BAY (NE) to Tip of PENINSULA & Retom to MANTTOWOC. 171.
SL57 & St42
Via: Sturgeon Bay, Algoma, Kewaunee & Two Rivers.
Door Peninsula, a prolongation of Niagara Escarpment, juts into L. Mich. One of
the great cherry-growing regs. of the world, it presents a magnificent sight when
orchards are in bloom, & is summer resort & hayfever refuge. St.57 zigzags across
peninsula up to Sister Bay. Here is J. with St.42 which goes (N) past Ellison Bay,
to the very tip. St.42 is an alt Rd. by which one can return via Sturgeon Bay, di-
rectly (S) to Manitowoc.
See. 1: GREEN BAY to ELLISON BAY, 78. St.57
0. GREEN BAY. J. with US41. St.57 foUows Main St. to 4. where is J. with Cty. A
leading (L) 7.5 m to Monu comm. site of Jean Nicolet's landing in 1634, the 1st
time a white man set foot on Wis. soil. St.57 then turns inland & climbs to crest of
NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (fine view of Green Bay), & reaches at 27. BRUS-
SELS, a village sett, by Belgians in 1854. The natives retain many old Belgian
customs & celebrations such as May Day & Kermiss. At c.32 is TORNADO PK.
comm. conflagration that swept through 7 counties. 36. J. with St.42. This Rd. can
be taken (S) to Algoma c.!3 m . At c.40.5. comes 1st glimpse of Door Cty.'s famous
cherry orchards. Wis. ranks 6th in production of cherries. A Cherry Blossom Fes-
BOOH PENINSULA LOOP TOURWISCONSIN 567
tival is held last week in May, & blossom time attracts thousands of tourists. Fruit
is picked 1st wk. in July, by pickers from all parts of st. Many orchards permit
visitors to pick their own fruit & pay for it later. 42. J. with Rd. leading (L) c.0.5 m
to Entrance of Fotawatomi St Pk. (1,046 as.camp.trlr.facils.). At 42.5. hy. crosses
bay to heart of Sturgeon Bay City, (resort area) at head of narrow harbor running
1,000' into the peninsula. Father Marquette landed here, 1673. Two centuries
later, in 1878, a canal was blasted through the stone. Today it is center of "Cherry-
land" & derives its income from handling & transhipping of fruit, & from tourists,
In the drydocks are preserved once famous old ships, noted for their speed &
luxury. St.57 travels (N) to J. with St.42 at 46. Hy. cent to the tip. At 51.5. is a
sign reading "Cave Point" & J. with gravel Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On latter (R) c.3.5m to a cave. Short walk leads to brink of 40' cliffs over-
looking L. Mich, whose waters have washed out wafer-like ledges pitted with holes.
57. JACKSONPORT, a fishing village where, after Civil War, ships from Gt Ls.
used to dock. 61.5. KANGAROO L. (old resort). 63.5. BAILEY'S HARBOR, dis-
covered in 1848 & called Gibraltar by 1st fisherman. Old Lighih. (1868) is still in
use. St.57 crosses to Green Bay side again to J. with St.42 & reaches SISTER BAY
at 73. Sister Bluffs (190') & Sister Is. off shore are breeding ground for herring gulls
& terns. St.42 picks up St.57 <& follows the shore to fishing village at ELLISON BAY
78. GILLS ROCK at 83. is at very tip of peninsula. Here are the 170' Death's
Door Bluffs, Table BIoS & U.S. Preserve for gulls & terns. The village's famous
giant in the 1830's was "Old Bradley" who measured 4' around the chest He could
lift fishing boats & huge rocks single-handed. Landing pj er for Washington I. Ferry
is here on St.42. (Ferry leaves twice daily both from this pier to the Is. & from there
for Gills Rock.) Porte des Morts (Death's Door) is half-mile strait bet peninsula &
the I. whose name derives from its treacherous undercurrent. Here La Salle's
"Griffon" was wrecked in 1679. Earliest inhabitants of Washington I. were Pota-
watomL
Sec. 2: SISTER BAY (S) to MANITOWOC, 93., $142
St.42, which can be used as an alt in going to tip from Green Bay, returns via
SISTER BAY at 0. (see above). Here is J. with St.57. EPHRAIM on Eagle Harbor
at 3. is a colony settled by Moravian emigrants who had been brought over (1853)
by a wealthy Norweg., Nils Tank (see US41). It is now 8th Ward of Green Bay
(resort.boatf.yacht.). Annual regatta held here for many yrs. Tank's dream of
Christian Communism lasted for 1 yr. Then the colonists dispersed, some settling
in Sturgeon Bay, while Tank stayed until his death. Cottage of A.M. Iverson,
theological student who inspired Tank, & Fiist Moravian Church (1857) are still
standing. Old Ch. contains Iverson's journals and many old relics. To (SE) 1.5 331 is
Peninsula St Pk. (3,670 as.golf.pic.lcamp.horses).
9. FISH CR. (resortboats to Oaarafees & Strawbmy Is. for rent). St.42 climbs up the
escarpment to STURGEON BAY at 3L Here Ann Arbor RR. & Auto Ferry connects
with Menominee, Mich, on its upper peninsula across Green Bay, & also with.
Frankfort, Mich, across L. Mich. St.42 unites with St.57 for 7 (S), then branches
off (L) & runs along crest of ridge into ALGOMA at 51, which, as its Ind. name
indicates, is a long sandy beach (pic.camp.). At 63. hy. reaches KEWAUNEE, sett,
in 1795, although Nicolet passed through here in 1634. Land speculation soared after
a rumored gold discovery in 1836. After the boom Kewaunee turned to lumbering
& today its principal industry is manufacture of school & office furniture. Coast
Guard Sta. is 1 block E. of Kewaunee R. Bridge. Adj. is terminus of the Pere
Marquette Auto Ferries, operating bet. here & Ludington, Mich.; also Ann Arbor
Ferry to Frankfort, Mich, (frequent schedules). Becker Mu& is at Cth. At 82. is
Side Rd. running (E) to Point Beach St For. (846 as.). For. has 2 of sandy beach
(recr.pic.camp.hik.riding). 87. TWO RIVERS, home of large commercial fishing
fleet (whitefish). The Hamilton Mfg. Co. & the Aiiimmum Goods Mfg. Co. (Mellon-
controlled) are 2 largest industries. Snow (artificial) Festival in July.
93. MANTTOWOC (see Milwaukee Trip ffl). Pere Marquette Auto Ferry across
L. Mich, to Ludington, Mich, (frequent schedules). At Manitowoc is J. with US 151
which turns (W) leading to Valdets, Norweg. settlement, where parents of noted
economist Thorstein Veblen sett 1857. Veblen was born & lived liere until family
moved to Minn.
568 US 45 WISCONSIN
US 45 WISCONSIN
WIS.-BLL. LINE (18 m from Libertyville, III.) (N) to WIS.-MICH. LINE (at Land
OILakes, WIs.). 304. US45 t n ,
Via: (Milwaukee), Fond du Lac, Oshkosh, Wittenberg, Antigo & Eagle River. RR.:
CM. & NW. Usual accoms.: In cities up to Antigo; N. of Antigo, at resorts.
Sec. 1: ILL. LINE to FOND du LAC. 100.
US45 crosses ILL. LINE at 0. & passes Bristol at 4.5. where P. T. Barnum's circus
appeared 10 yrs. before the Civil War. 36. J. with side Rd. leading (R) c.3m to
GreendaSe, a Resettlement Adm. Housing development for low-income group em-
ployees. Just before US45 reaches outskirts of Milwaukee, it passes HALES COR-
NER, then skirts MILWAUKEE at 37. Hy. passes CURRIE PK. (pic.facils.) & in
rapid succession, GERMANTOWN, WEST BEND, KEWASKUM & EDEN, all
thriving little German towns. N. of KEWASKUM at 79., Kettle Moraine St For.
begins (hqs. at Mauthe L. 25,000 as. in N. unit). FOND du LAC is reached at 100.
(see Milwaukee Trip IV).
Sc. 2: FOND du LAC to WITTENBERG. 99.
US45 travels along L. Winnebago shore almost paralleling US41 & at 19. reaches
OSHKOSH (see US41). 43. HORTONVILLE, where larger & more developed
farms can be seen from the hy. 51. NEW LONDON straddles Wolf R. at its J.
with the Embarrass R. It is a lumber terminus at which steamboats, plying Wolf
R. from Oshkosh, land. 67. CLINTONVILLE, home of Chet Bennett, famous
woodsman & explorer of the northern Ls. country. Clintonville is most highly in-
dustrialized city in reg. It has several cheese factories & Four Wheel Drive plants
(O-appl.). 99. WITTENBERG, sett, by Norweg. Lutherans toward end of 19th
cent., was named for German Univ. town where Martin Luther began Reformation.
A few Winnebago, subsisting on basket weaving & odd for. jobs, also live near-by.
At Wittenberg is J. with St.29.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On St.29 (W) 29m WaDsan (see US51).
(B) On St29 (E) 29m to Sbmrano, Menominee Ind. village before coming of white man.
This tribe on its way (W) from Green Bay, in search of better f. & h. grounds, found L.
Sfaawano & sett, on its shores. But early white pioneers realized almost immediately that
the source of timber supply & power would be the Wolf R. & sett, there. From Shawano
2 good hys. (St.55 & St.47) ran into the Ind. northwoods country.
St.55 traveling (N) as 1 Rd. with St.47 reaches dirt Rd. leading (L) across Wolf R. close
to Oslikosh Borial Plot, where wife of Neopit Oshkosh & 1 daughter are buried. Graves
are marked with animal representations. At 8m Keshena (see below). Here are hqs. of
Menoimacc Ind. Reserv. (231,000 as.no overnight accoms.pic.), a wooded wilderness
of virgin white pine & hemlock, through whicn Wolf R. flows. The quiet, shady, almost
gloomy for. with its cool, musty smell is welcome relief, especially in summer, to pre-
ceding miles. Here c.2,300 Menominee Inds., wealthiest in Wis., live & work, more or
less cooperatively. Each family has a subsistence farm; profits of sawmill, in which most
of the men work, are paid into common fund held by U.S. Treasury, to be used for
schools, hospitals, old age pensions & workmen's compensation. Older Inds. & those
unconverted to Christianity, live by themselves, devoting most of their time to hunt &
fish. A secret spring festival is held here, with tribal ceremonies. In village of Keshena
are Ind. agency bldgs.; school, hospital, & Cath. Mission. Most of the Menominee are
Catt*. Close by is Keshena Falls, trading post of Chief Oshkosh. Ceremonial lodge still
stands near-by. St.55 now travels for c.22m without a cross Rd. through the beautiful
Reserv. following, in the main, the old Military Rd. that ran from Ft. Howard, to Ft.
Wilkins, Mich., passing en route at 10m Spirit Rock & at 15.5m Beanpre Place, old
tavern, beyond which is a for. path to Big Smoky Falls. At 30m hy. reaches edge of
Nicolet Nat. For., crossing it from S. to N. (hqs. at Rhinelander). It encompasses a
great part of northern Wis. Ls. reg., with pine, spruce & hardwood stands & has trout,
muskellunge, pike & bass fishing as well as grouse & deer hunting (in season) except in
wildlife refuges (clearly marked). There are 20 improved pub. camps & pic. grounds.
Ranger Stas. at: Florence, Lakewood, Laona, Eagle River & Three Lakes.
Sec. 3: WITTENBERG to MICHIGAN LINE. 105.
US45 at Wittenberg starts (N) again, climbing steadily from c.800' past Birnamwood
& Aniwa to J. with St.47 at 18.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) hy. turns back (SW) into Menominee Ind. Reserv., passes
Phlox at 7m & Neopit at 19m. Here in sm. unpainted houses live the Menominee who work
in near-by sawmill, which in 1924 replaced old one & now is 1 of the best in Wis. U.S-
US 45 WISCONSIN 569
Dept. of Agric. supervises cutting of timber to assure constant supply of logs. Feb. School
(R). There is no illiteracy among younger generation. Hy. runs diagonally through the
reserv. & at 23m reaches Keshena (see above).
25. ANTIGO (1,4960 is the "beginning of the Northland." Kraft-Phoenix, one of
largest processed cheese factories of its kind, is located here. Antigo has flourishing
co-ops, creamery, grocery, hatchery, food, & state-supervised maple syrup co-op.
City is also distributing center for thousands of carloads of Wisconsin's best
potatoes. Deleglise H. (1877) oldest bldg. & home of city's founder, stands on Pub.
Lib. Grounds. It houses Lauglade Cty. Hist. Soc. & contains pioneer documents,
Ind. relics & old lumbering tools. At 41. is beautiful SUMMIT L., (1,7230,
highest L. in Wis. & at 50. PELICAN L. (1,6050, large, brooding & sometimes
treacherous. Hy. cont to MONICO at 55. & J. with US8.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On this Rd. (E) 12m to Cnmdon, near 4 Ls., a community retarded by
depleted fors. & almost ruined by repeated fires. Settlers from Kentucky made "moon"
here long before Prohibition. It now has the only legal distillery in Wis.
(B) On this Rd. (W) 14m i s Rhinelander, "Capital of the Heart of the Lakes," one of most
concentrated L. areas of the country. City is both winter & summer resort & from it most
of L. reg. can easily be reached by hy., airway or RR, Though a lumbering town that began
cutting timber as late as 1857 it exhausted most of the large timber in 60 yrs. & then turned
to paper making. Now has some of largest paper-making plants in country, specializing in
glassine, & wax paper. At 924 Davenport St. is Logging Mos. (O.daEy.9-5 from May-Dec.)
displaying logging implements, & relics of reg.'s early days, incl. a pair of enormous boots
that only Paul Bunyan could have worn; also the "fabulous hodag beast" which, although
known to be a hoax, is still a symbol of the North's old tradition. Here is J. with St.47.
NW. of Rhinelander 9m St.47 enters Amer. Legion St. Pis- (37,650 as.), a reg. of inland
glacial Ls., streams & wooded country (pub .camp grounds; accoms. at resorts). At 16m
is L. Tomahawk St. Camp, rehabilitation camp for tubercular patients; in operation 40
yrs. At 39m Woodruff (see US51). From Woodruff (W) 2m St.70 runs into Lac dn
Flambeau Ind. Reserv. On 70,000 as. of cut-over marginal land, c.700 Inds. eke out an
existence, acting mainly as guides, & selling hand-made trinkets to tourists.
Back on the main hy. at Monico, US45 travels again as one Rd. with St.47, cont.
N. & reaches THREE LAKES at 73., resort town surrounded by wild country
(accoms., from rustic log cabins to the luxury resort, Northeniaira, in vie,).
Ranger hqs. for Nicolet Nat. For. are at Virgin L. 5 m (E) on St.32.
US45 passes CATFISH L. at 82. 84. EAGLE RIVER, recr. center for Northern
Wis. wondrous lakeland, is located on the Eagle R., at start of Eagle Chain of
Lakes, one of longest & finest lake groups of the Northwoods & completely
navigable. There are 27 Ls. in chain & 65 for. fringed individual Ls. Muskellunge
& wall-eyed pike 1 is unexcelled. Eagle R. is Vilas Cty. seat, named, after Wm. F.
Vilas, who was nationally prominent as Postmaster Gen., Secy, of Interior & U.S.
Sen., as well as timberlord of the Northwoods. His activities in timber were Federally
investigated while he was Secy, of Interior. His bequest of $30,000,000, after death
of his daughter, founded fellowships & scholarships (1/5 of which were to go to
Negroes). Vilas Cty. is sett, largely by Scands. Finnish Co-ops have flourished here
for many yrs. At Eagle R. is J. with St.70.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (E) 0.5m are dist. hqs. for Nicolet For, At 7*a Aim! L. Camp-
ground (spring-fed with excellent beach;facils.). Anvil L. ski-trail begins here. At 10m still
in for. is Franklin L. Camp (facils.). Several Nat. For. camp & pic. grounds in vie.
(N) on US45 at 87. is J. with Stl7.
SIDE TRIP: On St.17 (R) c.5m hy. again enters Nicolet Nat. For. over gently rolling hills,
deep into the pine woods. From high pt in this vie. (1,800') North Twin L. can be seen
(fine view). At c.!3*n Rd. cuts through a white birch stand & leads to Phelps at 18 m on E.
end of L., a lumber boomtown that dwindled into a ghost for yrs. & was kept alive by
summer residents. Today, its sawmill & chemical plant are again busy at work. There are
40 Ls. & 100m of trout streams within 10m radius. At Phelps beyond mill (L) is Cty. E which
touches S. shore of 10 mile sq. Lac Vienx Desert (resortcabins.excellent pie & muskie f.),
partly in Mich. Cty. E joins US45 c.2m outside Land OTLakes (see below).
From Eagle R. US45 travels directly (N)- At 95. CONOVER, another lumber boom-
town which in its heyday boasted 29 saloons on Main St. Now is a through-tourist
place conn, by Rd. the numerous Ls. of vie. Hy. skims ahead through blueberry
marshes & picturesque conifers into LAND O'LAKES on MICH.-WIS. LINE at
105., pt. of entry into one of the few Unspoiled areas in the U.S." Northern High-
land State Far. (126,700 as.camp.pic.Hqs. at Trout L. on US51) contains mag-
nificent stands of stately pines, oak, birch & poplar. There are more than 150 Ls.
7 US 51 WISCONSIN
within boundaries of the For., many of them links of chains ideal for canoe trips.
Land O'Lakes is also pt. of entry into Gogebic Cty., Mich., incl. Porcupine Mis*
with L. of Clouds, Agate & Bowlwater Falls, Headwaters of the Wis., Brale & On-
tanagon Rs. are within a few miles. All winter sports facils. at Kings Gateway,
(hotel & recr. center) on Wis.-Mch. Line.
US 51 WISCONSIN
WB,-1LL. LINE (19 m from Rockford, III) (N) to WIS.-MICH. LINE (at Ironwood,
Mich.) 331. US51. T ^
Via: Janesville, Madison, Portage, Plainfield, Stevens Point, Wausau, Memll, Toma-
hawk, Woodruff. Good Rd. Accoms.: In cities; cabins in Northern Lakes reg.
This is Wis.* main S-N tour which divides st. into 2 equal parts. From the rich farm-
land & highly industrialized cities of the south it skirts Madison & the Univ. center,
& hurries through the poor, cut-over sec. of the Northwoods, where wolves are still
hunted, to the Mich. Line.
0. BELOIT, (see Madison Trip I) on Wis.-Iil. Line. 12. JAKESVILLE (see). 55.
MADISON (see). Here is J. with St.23 leading (W) 21 m to Ripoe, disputed birthpl.
of Rep. Party. 92. PORTAGE (see Madison Trip H). 162. J. with St.54 leading (R)
30 m to Waupaca, named in honor of Potawatomi chief who died after making
speech to his braves urging them not to massacre the whites. Waupaca is a potato
market & recr. center. Chain of 23 Ls. begins here & offers excellent German brown
trout. Long leisurely canoe or launch trips may also be taken from here. (NW) of
Waupaca, Rd. again enters terminal morain country.
1*9. STEVENS POINT. J. with US10; located at strategic center of St. It has good
mun. airport & is serviced by Wis. Central Air Line. City was 1st sett, in 1838 &
since then has been a trade & transport center. At one time it was known as "Po-
tato Capital of Wis." Among its industries, the 5 fishing-tackle plants rank high, but
it has primarily service trades such as insurance, transportation & education & is
seat of an important St. Teachers College. Town, even today, has large Polish-
speaking pop. From Stevens Point hy. traverses sandy plain & farms look as poor
as the jackpine fors. through which US51 passes. Here is J. with US 10 leading (L)
35 m to Maxshfield. Town was completely destroyed by fire in 1887, but on its
ashes a new city arose. Today it is a busy woodworking & casein center.
202. WAUSAU, an industrial city with more than 40 industries, is in the leading
"Arner. cheese" producing reg. Winter Sports Area of Rib. Mt, one of finest in
Middle West, lies 7^ (SW) of it, & is part of Rib. Mt Pk. (1940', highest in Wis.; 440
as. all ski facils). Annual Winter Frolic in March. Superb view from Lookout Rock.
Rib. Mt. is scene of one of Paul Bunyan tales. The mythical giant of lumber camps
climbed the mt. & saw beneath him the waters of the Wis. Impulsively he took a
huge leap & landed in the R., creating such a splash that the sound could be heard
miles away. When last drops of water had fallen, there were Wis.* beautiful Ls.
Prom Wausau, Rd. runs down long, steep hill, past Grandfather Falls on Wis. R.
(here 80 million ft. of timber were once piled up in greatest log jam in Wis. hist.),
to^MERMLL at 219. J. with Cty. Rd. leading (W) 1m to Council Grounds St Pk.
(278 as. of white & Norway pines, also hardwoods; camp.pic.bath. at L. Alexander,
upper end of for.). Hy. now passes through terminal moraine formed by Chippewa
lobe of Wis. glacier main northern dairy reg. & well-to-do farms. 241. TOMA-
HAWK, at J. of Wis., Tomahawk & Somo Rs. As late as 1886, there was only 1
lonely tavern here. Four yrs. later, Tomahawk was a timber boomtown with pop.
of c,2,000. After the collapse it turned to paper & pulp mf g. City is has. for st 's for -
fire protection units. US51 now runs through undulating country, past blueberry
marshes, stunted jackpines, & reaches MINOCQUA at 271., center of Northern Ls
Region. Town hibernates in winter but by 4th of July, literally booms. 272. J. with
St7Q running (L) through Lac dta Flambeau Ind. Reserv. 273. WOODRUFF, con-
astog at one time mainly of saloons that catered to lumberjacks of surrounding
a s s
.<nu- 1 ., f NORTHERN HIGHLANDS ST. FOR.
as. with 150 lakes, incl. bath.f.camp.& pic.) located in central part of v
US 61 WISCONSIN 571
Cty. (c. 1,6000, primarily a wilderness area of Ls. streams & pinewood country.
Summer resorts & supervised campgrounds abound. For. hqs. at Trout L. 294,
LITTLE BOHEMIA, resort among the pines, where John DilHnger & Ms gang hid
in April 1931, & from which all escaped after desperate fight with F.B.I. Personal
belongings of Dillinger & fellow gangsters are on display at Little Bohemia Lodge
(O). 302. MANITOWISH, near Manitpwish R., whose waters are famous for
muskellunge fishing. 305. MERCER, still displaying a relic of logging days, the
Go-Devtl 10' wheels joined by an axis, which, until tractors were used, served to
"snake out" timber from the woods. The Northern Ls. Reg., of which Mercer is N.
entrance, has a ratio of water to land surface equalled only by 2 other places: one in
Minn., the other, the Gulf of Bothnia. For. fires have gutted much of area N. of
here. Blueberry swamps, deserted mine housing & dumps make next 23 m a contrast
to the for. just left behind. 331. HURLEY, lumberjacks & miners town, with former
reputation for bawdiness & crime. It & Bessemer, its twin across the st. line, came
into existence in same yr., 1886, rivaling each other in lustiness. "The 4 toughest
places in the world are Cumberland, Hayward, Hurley & Hell, but Hurley is
toughest of all," the saying goes. Hurley is locale of Edna Ferber's novel "Come &
Get It."
US 61 WISCONSIN
WIS.-IOWA LINE (at Dubuque, Iowa) (N) to WIS.-MINN. LINE (at La Crescent,
Wis.). 122. US61.
Via: Lancaster, Femuinore, Boscobel, Readstown, Viroqua. Accoms.: In cities.
US61, together with St.35 & US151, crosses Miss. R. over Toll Bridge into Wis.
heading (N) & reaching POT0SI at 19., a mining town with an old brewery, part of
which was built in 1852 & is still running. Near it is Potosi Station, river port. Lead
was struck here in 1829 & was shipped down the R. 30. LANCASTER. J. with St81
which unites with St.35 for 8 m (St.35 travels S. & N. to Prairie dm CMen & from there
becomes River Hy. noted for its scenic beauty along steep banks of the Miss.).
SIDE TRIP: St.81 traveling (SW) for llm reaches Nelson Bewey Farmstead St Pk. (720
as.camp.& piafacils.), estate of 1st Gov. of Wis,, U.S. Sen., & leader of Wis. Progressivism.
Orig. bldgs. of the farm home & many other old bldgs. are still standing; a few are restored.
Pk. embraces some of the most attractive bluff scenery along upper Miss. R- (accoms. in
Cassvffle).
US61 reaches at 42* FENNIMOHE, lying on a pt of Military Ridge, which drains 4
ways: to the Blue, Green, Platte, & Grant Rs. Descending the 10 m escarpment, Rd.
reaches BOSCOBEL (Fr.-Ind. "beautiful woods") at 53. When steamboats plied
the Wis., this was an important shipping pt. Stage coaches brought travelers, ox
carts, & produce from the inland. The Gideons, whose real name is Christian Com-
mercial Travelers Assoc. of Amer., had their beginning here, when 2 traveling sales-
men found themselves together in a hotel room reading the Bible as an evening's
diversion. The 2 men, realizing how lonely most travelers are, thought it a good
idea to supply hotels with Bibles. Hotels eagerly responded & now practically aH
rooms contain a Bible.
In the center of town is Residence of John J. BMne former Gov. of Wis. & U.S.
Senator. From Boscobel l m is J. with St.60 which follows Wis. R. (W) for c.25 m to
J. with S135. The latter is a 100 m Miss. R. route (For pts. of int. see US61). At 55.
a NEW BRIDGE, built in 1937 to supplant one of Wisconsin's last covered bridges,
crosses Wis. R. This was once an important waterway, but because of its many
islands & shifting channels large steamboats could not always ply it In early yrs. of
lead mining, it was thought that ore could be shipped from here up the Wis., across
the portage to the Fox R. & thence through Gt Ls. to N.Y. This did not prove
feasible. Even before mining days, lumber was swept downstream & soon reg. had
a class of rivermen who became experts in running the rapids & handling the diffi-
cult barges. In their stories, the mythical riverman, Whiskey Jack, who rivaled Paul
Bunyan in prowess & strength, was created. Villagers still remember riotous pay-
nights when rafters came to town. Sometimes 100 men would be fighting in the
muddy streets while the city marshall sat, revolver in hand, ''watching the affair with
the enlightened eye of an expert & the enjoyment of a connoisseur.*'
122. LA CROSSE. (Served by 3 major RRs. Bus conns. Usual accoms.) La Crosse
is at confluence of Black, La Crosse, & Miss. Rs., in a beautiful coulee country
572 MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
described by Hamlin Garland a succession of high bony ridges, wooded glens &
valleys, especially fine in fall & winter. The vista along the R., with its massive
headlands, is impressive. The Hudson & the Rhine are the only Rs. that can compare
with Upper Miss. Coulee Reg. From its highest bluff 3 sts., Wis., Minn., & Iowa, can
be seen. It is the natural trading & shipping center of the rich agric. reg. around it
Town was 1st called Prairie La Crosse by the early Fr. travelers who named it for
a game the Inds. played, which reminded them of the French game "la crosse."
From its 1st settlement, 1842, until coming of the RRs., La Crosse was entirely de-
pendent on Miss. R. transportation. River packets brought settlers & freight In
winter sleds took place of steamboats. Steamboat traffic averaged c.200 boats a
month during 1856-57. Two-thirds of its pop. is of foreign descent. First settlers
were from N.Y., Vermont & Ohio. Then came the artisans & craftsmen of Germany
& Norway, who helped it grow economically & culturally. Around 1877, as the
lumbering bus. grew & RRs. created new markets, La Crosse became the most im-
portant distribution pt bet St Louis & St Paul. In 1942, the Fed. Gov. created a 9'
channel in the Miss., with locks & dams, assuring a deep waterway from Alton, 111.
to beyond the Falls of St. Anthony.
La Crosse had its 1st sawmill by 1852 & logging was dominant industry. By turn
of the cent., the fors. were depleted & La Crosse quickly turned to diversified in-
dustries, today producing rubber articles, agric. implements, air conditioning equip-
ment, beer, & photographic supplies. It is also a cultural center, known for its music,
social & political clubs. During Civil War, followers of Mark "Brick" Pomeroy,
editor of the "La Crosse Democrat," were Southern sympathizers & when Lincoln
was assassinated, a near riot ensued among the opponents, charging that Pomeroy
had instigated the murder. Geo. W. Peck, one of Wis.'s best-known humorists, was I
of Pomeroy's editors. He was author of "Peck's Bad Boy" series & had his own
newspaper, "The Sun," which was later published in Milwaukee. Here he became
mayor, & eventually Gov. of the st. PTS. OF INT.: 501 N. 3rd St., AHis Chalmers
Farm Implement Plant; 4 separate bldgs. with a $2,000,000 addition (tours appl.).
912 Market St, St Rose Chapel (Cath.), a Romanesque basilica with exquisitely
beautiful inter, of marble & inlaid mother-of-pearl. It is a chapel of Perpetual
Adoration. La Crosse St, E. of 17th St, Merrick St Pk. (with facils.) in which is
only known Ind. Burial Mound in La Crosse, a "turtle" effigy, & a zoo. Cor. St
Andrew, Loomis & Harvey Sts., La Crosse Robber Mills (O.9-12 Mon.-Thurs.
guides.appl.). From La Crosse 12 m (E) on US 16 is Hamlin Garland H. where author
lived as a boy & about which he ^rote in "A Son of the Middle Border."
MILWAUKEE
RRs.: Milwaukee RR.; Chi. & NW.; Mil. & Chi. North Shore Line. Bus: Northland
Greyhound Lines. Five accredited air lines. Wis. & Mich. (Auto Ferry) Co. to Mus-
kegon, Mich. Ample accoms.
Milwaukee, located on the crescent curve of L. Mich., the most beautiful harbor on
the Great Lakes, is at the confluence of Milwaukee & Kinnickinnic Rs. These Rs.
quadrisect the city. Chief industrial sec. is in the Menomonee Valley. Along Wis-
consin Ave., running (W) from the L., is main bus. sec., while other bus. areas are
on the N., S. & W. sides of town in many neighborly centers. Homes, of which 50%
are owned by the residents, spread all over town, with the more pretentious man-
sions along Lake Drive. Although 13th in pop. among American cities, Milwaukee
ranks 10th in value of industrial production, which leads the world in manufacture
of diesel & gas engines, outboard motors & motorcycles, tractors & wheel barrows.
Four of the 7 largest breweries of U.S. are here. It also leads the country in the
production of hosiery, leather gloves & mittens, work shoes, tin & enamelware, saw
& flour mill equipment
Annually, Milwaukee still receives national trophies. So far, it has had more than
25 nat awards for fire-waste reduction, health conservation & traffic safety The
Wickersham Committee cited it as "a city free from crime or where a criminal is
speedily detected, tried & convicted. No other city has such a record." Its alert
police administers "24-hour justice." Milwaukeeans enjoy a fine cultural life City
has 7 colleges & a umv., art & music sens. & galleries, exceptionally good pub.
fcbranes & mweums. It has the largest vocational sch. in the world. Milwaukee's
pop. now is 85% American born, although Germans form largest part of its for-
MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 573
eign stock, while the Poles are steadily increasing. Most of them live on the South
Side, where their cultural life is centered around the parish chs. They have 2 Polish
dailies. Next come the Italians who are concentrated mainly in the 3rd Ward. Their
frequent fiestas lend color to the life of the city. Negroes have sett, here only since
World War I. In 1 generation, the city has assimilated people of many nationalities
& done it so well that its representatives participate in all major activities & hold
ranking positions, particularly in politics & sports.
The land of Milwaukee was surveyed as late as 1835 & was bought by 3 men,
Solomon Juneau, Byron Kilbourn & Geo. H. Walker, who immediately set up
rival towns. The quarrel centering around payment for the Milwaukee bridges, be-
came so violent that at one point the bridges were partly destroyed & cannon
trained on Kilbourn's house. Controversy was sett in 1845 when legislature decided
that the cost would have to be borne equally. A yr. later, the city received its charter
& Juneau became its 1st mayor. From that time on there was a great influx of Ger-
mans. Most of them were professionals & skilled craftsmen, who advanced the city's
progress immeasurably. Despite Ind. troubles, depressions & epidemics the pop.
increased from 21,000 to 46,000 in 1 yr. Milwaukeeans were overwhelmingly
abolitionists & freed many runaway slaves, thereby troubling the Fed. authorities.
Culturally as well as economically, the German element began to take over the
city. Shipbuilding raced forward & by 1856, the 1st transoceanic shipment was made
in a Milwaukee-built schooner. The 2nd German opera to be performed in U.S.
was put on here & 3 yrs. later, 1st German opera, "Mohega, die Blume des Waldes,**
based on Ind. legend, was composed & produced in Milwaukee. Particularly im-
portant in the music field were the Musikyereine & choral societies, & every Tum-
verein had its Saengerfest. The "Wiskonsin Banner," 1st German daily, was pub-
lished in 1844; Byron Price had printed 1st Eng. paper in 1836. First German
theatrical performance was given in 1850. Two tragedies hit the city the sinking
of the excursion steamer, "Lady Elgin," in I860, in which 295 persons were drowned
& the Newhall House hotel fire, 1880, in which 64 people died. Both events were
comm. in ballad & verse. The ballads were still sung in 1892 when the famous 3rd
Ward fire occurred, destroying 16 blocks of bus. & residential districts, causing
millions of dollars of damage. Despite fire & panic of 1893, this was the real era
of "Gemuetlichkeit." Cafes & beer gardens flourished; German theater & music were
at their height. It was at this time that labor & the Socialist Party, under Victor L.
Berger's leadership combined, gaining rewards for both. World War I changed a
great deal of this domestic peace. German was no longer spoken on the streets,
names were changed, & personal relations grew strained. Then came Prohibition
which destroyed an industry & much of the city's conviviality; during the decade
that followed, Milwaukee's industries became more diversified. From 1916 to
1940, Milwaukee had a Socialist mayor, Daniel W. Hoan, although its gov, was
non-partisan. It was this system of checks & balances that helped to make the city
solvent (it is largest debt-free city in U.S.) & to keep its civic record. World War II
brought an "all-out" in production, bond buying <& general participation. More
than 100,000 women were working out during the war. Although there was great
war-time expansion in industry, 99% of the^factories were pje-war plants. Recon-
version in Milwaukee, therefore, was primarily a switch to civilian goods.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) W. Wisconsin Ave. bet. N. llth & N. 16th Sts., Marqaette Univ.
(nonsect.coed.operated by Jesuits;founded 1857) known for its schs. of Journalism,
Medicine & Dentistry. Bldgs. are in different parts of city. (2) 900 W. Wis. Ave.,
Wisconsin Club, formerly known as "Deutscher Klub" (1870.tpwer;adds.later), &
once the home of Alex. Mitchell, one of Milwaukee's wealthiest pioneers. (3) W. Wis.
Ave. & N. 8th St., Milwaukee Pub. Lib. & Mos. Bldg. (1898.Ren.by Ferry & Clas).
In front of mus. stands large Totem Pole, bought & brought from Haida Inds. in
Br. Columbia, 1921. Lib. (O.daily & Sun.aft). Readers charge & check their own
books & practically all of its more than a million books are on the open shelves.
Mus. (O.9-9.Nov.l-May 1;9-5:30 in summer;l:30-5 Sun.& holidays). It is largest
mun. owned mus. in country. Notable are colls, of arms, Ind. artifacts, birds* eggs
& stamps. In its typewriter coll. is 1st typewriter, as invented by 2 Milwaukeeans,
Christopher L. Sholes & Carlos Glidden. (4) 901 N. 9th St, County Cth. (1931.neo-
class.by A.R.Ross). Its great classic mass dominates proposed Civic Center. Near-by
at 822 Kilbourn St, is Pub. Safety Bldg. (always O.1929 by Ross & Clas.mod.design).
574 MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
The 2 bldgs. were built at a cost of more than $1 1,000,000. (5) 1004 N. 10th St., St.
Benedict the Moor Mission (Cath.) for Negroes. Present Romanes, chapel built
1911. Capuchin Order is in charge of the mission which covers 2 city blocks, but
Dominican nuns conduct sch. & Franciscan Sisters the hospital. Its patron saint
was a descendant of African slaves. (6) 917 W. Juneau Ave., Pafost Brewery (tours
hourly 9-4;guides), one of the largest in country. Founded 1842 by Jacob Best Blue
Ribbon Hall is its "guest center." (7) 1015 N. 6th St., Milwaukee Vocational Sch.,
internationally recognized as world's largest It has several hundred classrooms, 2
auditoriums, many workshops, more than 35,000 day & night students; training in
65 different trades. (8) 1034 N. 4th St., West Side Turner HaSl (1892.Mod.German
Romanes.), once cultural home of Germans who helped lay foundation for Socialism
in Milwaukee. (9) 333 W. State St, Milwaukee Journal Bldg. (O.appl.mod.in design
by Chase), home of st's largest, most influential daily newspaper & broadcasting
sta. WTMJ. In the lunettes above the 3rd floor, are emblems of 20 famous printers
of the world. Frieze represents history of printing. Lucius W. Nieman was the
"Journal's" founder; his widow gave to Harvard Univ. $1,000,000 "to promote &
elevate standards of Journalism in U.S." (10) 144 E. Wells St, Pabst Theatre (1895.
German Ren.by Otto Straack), once home of German Repertory Theatre which for
yrs. presented serious drama & musical comedies with some of the foremost actors
of Germany. The classics as well as premieres of the latest operettas were staged. It
now presents German movies, concerts & lectures. (11) 200 E. Wells St., City Hall
(1894.Hemdsh Ren.by Koch & Esser), with 350' clock-tower & dome cupola. (12)
1120 N. Broadway, Biaiz Brewery (tours hourly June-Sept.); founded by Johann
Braun, 1844, taken over by his brewmaster, Valentine Blatz, 1851. (13) 802 Jack-
son St, St Joim's Cathedral (1847.adds.in Ital.Ren;double tower by Ferry & Clas,
1892). (14) 772 N. Jefferson St, Milwaukee Art Institute (OJuly & Aug.1910.Sp.
Ren.by Harry Bogner). Valuable permanent coll. Free art training for children. (15)
758 N. Jefferson St, Layton Art Gallery (1888.Gr.Rev.by G.A.Audsley & E.T.Mix).
(16) 419 N. Jackson St, Madonna de Pompeii Cn* (modltaLRomanes.), center of
"Little Italy's" many fiestas during which saints are carried around in procession,
dollar bills pinned to their garments, through brilliantly lighted streets, decked in
gay colors. National foods & trinkets are sold along sidewalks. (17) W. Lincoln Ave.
<& S. 6th St., St Josaphafs Basilica (1898Ital.Ren.by E. Brielmaier & Sons.copper
dome 204 f high). Some of its murals are copies of Polish originals. (18) N. end of
Lennox St., Jones Island, once the colorful fishing colony, where in its heyday (1890-
1915), 6,000,000 Ibs. of fish were seined annually. It also was haunt of sea-food
epicures. Now is city's Sewage Disposal Plant (tours hourly Mon.-FrL), occupies
50 as. & Is internat known for its highly developed & profitable treatment of sewage.
By using the activated sludge principle, artificial fertilizer was produced as a by-
product, known as Milorganite, netting the Metropolitan Sewage District $600,000
annually, besides reducing lake & stream pollution. (19) S. end of 27th St Viaduct,
Mitchell Pk. on a 63-a. bluff overlooking the Menomonee Valley. Here Jacques
Vieau, Milwaukee's 1st fur trader, had a trading post, 1795. A replica of his cabin
stands in NE. part of pk. Conservatory & Botanical Gardens (O.summer.8-10;other-
wise 8-5), especially notable for orchid & chrysanthemum shows. Near Mitchell Pk.
is 27th St Viaduct, beneath which is Pigsvffle, called so because of pigs raised there
in former days. (20) W. National Ave. bet S. 44th & S. 56th St, National Soldiere*
Home, yet Adm., the 350-a. federally-operated medical & rest center for soldiers,
! o s fe rs ^ m ? I ? nes one of tbe oldest in U.S. Veterans were admitted as early as
AX^L i ^founders was mother of Brig. Gen. Mitchell (see below). Now has
90 bldgs. inci 3 hospitals & 10 barracks (3,000 beds in entire center). (21) Along L
Mich, from E.WIS. Ave., Janean Pk. From upper level is magnificent view of harbor]
spreading N. & S. from confluence of its 3 rivers. To the (S) is winter doclr of the T
fleets; (N) Yacht Club & Lake Pk., best loved for its natural ras" Lfccoln Men!
2^J e S! e ^ s l rac ally ,S" om N " to S * dt y Hmits on " mad e land." E. of Drive is
Water Pimfication Plant (O.2-5 daily); completed in 1938 at cost of $5,100,000. On
L. shore (SB) Seadrome, used exclusively for seaplanes & amphibians.. (22) 3203 N
r^wner Ave St Teachers College, noted for its Division of exceptional cMdren
which trains teachers for the deaf & mentally handicapped. (23) 2512 E Hartford
MMwaiikee Downer College (Tudor Goth.) founded 189^ formed out of MwTukee
^1L & f IS * JT^ 011 ^ 185L (24 > 2033 E - Hartford AvI!
Milwaukee Univ. School, founded 1851 as German-English Academy by Peter
TRIPS OUT OF MILWAUKEE 575
Engelmann, German political refugee, is a private coed, sen., from nursery sch, to
college.
(25) Estabrook Pk. off E. Capitol Dr., incL small Ben. Church EL (1844.Gr.Rev.by
Ben.Church), moved from N. 4th St., where it stood for more than a century. (26)
1631 N. 4th St., Linus N. Dewey H. (1855.porch added.octagonal house). (27) 235
W. Galena St., Scfalitz Brewery (tours every half hour.Mon.-Fri;9-l 1 Sat.) founded in
1849 by Aug. Krug. His bookkeeper, Jos. Schlitz, married his widow & in 1874 org.
present brewery known the world over by its slogan, 'The Beer that made Milwaukee
famous." (28) 3533 N. 27th St., Research & Engineering BIdg., one of 60 bldgs. of A.
O Smith Corp., known as 'the glass house" (1931.Holabird & Root), outer walls
being of aluminum & glass. (29) 1324 N. Milwaukee St., Notre Dame Conveef,
the Amer. mother-house of School Sisters of Notre Dame. Of the 416 sens, con-
ducted by the nuns in North America, 28 parochial schs. & Mount Mary College
(see below) are in Milwaukee Cty. The convent was founded in 1850. Today is home
for aged nuns. (30) 2900 N. Menomonee R. Dr., Mount Mary College, an accredited
Cath. college for girls (bldgs.CoLGoth.by Herbst & Kuenzii). (31) 1629 N. Prospect
Ave., Peck H. (1870) one-time home of Gtso. W. Peck, author of "Peck's Bad Boy**
stories (see Madison). (32) 2822 N. 5th St, Nimn-Bosbi Shoe Co. Plant (O.appL).
Company received national recognition for its "Yrly. Salary Plan," begun in 1935.
Each employee is assured an annual income. A committee of workers & executives
determines wages, based on gross income of Co. & type of work performed. (33) W.
Atkinson Ave., Garden Homes Subdivision, 1st Amer. co-op housing venture bet
citizens & local gov. (34) Mitchell Air Field* named to honor posthumously Brig.
Gen. Wm. (Billy) Mitchell, stormy petrel of American air power. He was grandson
of Alex. Mitchell, RR. king & banker, & was made Brig. Gen. at St. Mihiel, France,
1918. His insistence on importance of air power in future wars & his scathing at-
tacks on "the hidebound bureaucrats of the army" so infuriated his superiors that
he was suspended in 1925. He continued Ms warnings until his death in 1936.
TRIPS OUT OF MILWAUKEE
L MILWAUKEE (W) to MADISON. 82. US18
Heading (W) on Bluemound Rd., US 18 leaves Milwaukee & reaches WAUKESHA.
at 18.5. former Potawatomi Village & later a famous health resort, known as "Sara-
toga of the West" because of its health waters; now an industrial city with well-
known limestone quarries. Home of CarroE College (Presb.1841). Waukesha was an
abolitionist center in pre-Civil War days & an important Underground RR. Sta, The
"American Freeman' was printed here (1844-48). After the health boom, factories
replaced resorts & bottled spring water is still one of its principal products. Waukesha
is home of White Rock Mineral Springs. Mud Baths & Spa are still famous. At
Waukesha is J. with St.59 leading (SW) 8 m to Genesee Depot In vie. is estate of Al-
fred Lunt & Lynn Fontanne. At 26.5. J. with St83 which leads (L) 1.5 m to Wales, a
Welsh community that until recently celebrated Eisteddfod festival of harvest, & still
observes St. David's Day. US18 now passes through kettle moraine country past
GOLDEN LAKE at 36. At 56.5. a tobacco-growing area begins, beautiful in summer
with flowers whose blooms are later hooded to prevent cross-fertilization, presenting
strange looking as. of paper blossoms. At 80.5. J. with US14 & then (R) on Park St
to University Ave., MADISON (see) at 82.
H. MILWAUKEE (W) to MADISON. 82, St30.
This is an alternate Rd. to US 18, narrower & less traveled, but especially good for
hikers, cyclists & horseback riders. At 14. St30 branches (R) & at 25. is DELA-
FIELD. Here is St John's Military Academy (Episc.). Goth, bldgs. (dress parade
Sun.4 p.m.). Near-by is Nashotafa House, Anglo-Cath. mission founded 1841, now
Episc. seminary. 27. UPPER & LOWER NEMAHBIN LS. (swim.boatf .). 50. AZ-
TALAN MOUND PK. 2.5 (E) of the present city of LAKE MILLS at 52.5. In
Pk. are ruins of an ancient city which stood on banks of Crawfish R*, inhabited by
people very advanced in civilization & arts as evinced by plan of village itself, their
bumi brick & mortar construction & pottery & posts cut by sharp-edged stone im-
plements. Although discovered in 1836, it was not presented to Wis. Archeologkal
Soc. until 1922. Alex. Humboldt's writings suggested the name. Although it is fairly
certain that Aztecs were not ancestors of these peoples, still their crafts show Mexi-
can influence. Truncated pyramids with their plastered walls & shells from the Gulf
576 TRIPS OUT OF MILWAUKEE
coast identify Aztalan with the culture of the Middle & Lower Miss, rather than
with Upper Miss. Milwaukee Pub. Mus. has a very fine replica of one of the
bodies found. At 76.5. is J. with US51. 82. MADISON.
JSL SHOREWOOD (Milwaukee) (NW) to WATERTOWN. 47.5. US16
0. SHOREWOOD, suburb of Milwaukee on L. Michigan at J. with US141. From
here, on W. Capitol Dr., US16 passes Estabrook Pk. to J. with US41 at 7. 21.
FEWAUKEE (resort), on whose lake sail & ice boats skim in season. 28. PINE L,
(now mainly summer homes) where 1st Swedish immigrants settled in Wis. & called
it New Upsala. 31. Resort village of OICAUCHEE, & L. Okaucfaee near-by (boatf .
cottages). 34. OCONOMOWOC, bet Fowler & LaBelle Ls. (resorts.watering place;
popular during week-ends;summer & winter sports). U.S. & Canada Skating Meets
& Central States Ski-jumping contests held here. Out of town 3 m is Devil's Hollow,
where ski-jumping takes place. At 39. ROCK R is crossed. 45.5. OCTAGON EL,
a 4-story bldg. with many mechanical devices, such as central heating & air condi-
tioning, that were advanced ideas 100 yrs. ago. (O.daily.May 30 to Nov. 1,1 849-53).
47.5. WATERTOWN, sett, c.1836 by New Englanders. Four yrs. later German pro*
fessionais or political refugees began to arrive. Carl Schurz, famous political re-
former, arrived in 1856, having fled the "1848 revolution" in Germany. Schurz who
hated slavery joined Republican Party although most Germans in Wis. were Demo-
crats. In 1857 he ran for Lt Gov., but was defeated, & next yr. campaigned for
Lincoln, who made him Minister to Spain, 186L He became brigadier, gen. (1862)
& major gen. of U.S. Army (1863); later U.S. Senator from Mo. & Secy, of Interior
under Hayes. Mrs. Schurz, a pupil of Froebel, est in Watertown 1st kindergarten in
America, 1856. Bldg. in which it began is still standing on N. 2nd St. Ralph Blumen-
feld, another notable Watertowner, introduced journalistic methods into England &
became editor of London "Daily Express." Watertown is nationally known for its
geese & supplies N.Y. markets. It also produces cutlery, cash registers, locks, fur-
naces, auto linings & canned peas. It has 2 sin. colleges, Northwestern (Evang.Luth.
1865) modeled on a German Gymnasium, & Sacred Heart College (CatLnormal
sch.forboys). At 70. is COLUMBUS. Here an antiquated gristmill & hotel built
1840 still stand. Near-by on James St & among many plain bldgs. is Farmers' &
Merchants' Union Bank, designed by Louis Sullivan (teacher of Frank Lloyd
Wright), & considered one of his finest pieces of work. On St60 (W) of Columbus,
hillsides ar covered with pea vines. It is considered some of best pea-growing land
in st
IV* MILWAUKEE (N) to MANIT0WOC. 97. US14L Via: Port Washington &
Sheboygan.
Leaving Milwaukee by Lake Dr. along beautiful curve of the bay & heading (N),
US141 passes SHQREWQO0, WHfigFISH BAY & FOX FT., suburbs of Mil-
waukee, on wooded bluffs to TEHENSY1LLE at 5.5. For many yrs. this was home
of Victor L. Berger, Milwaukee's famous 1st Socialist Congressman. Because of his
anti-war publications during World War I, he was accused of violating the Espionage
Act Congress repeatedly refused to seat him, while his case was being appealed,
despite the fact that his Wis. constituents re-elected him. Finally in 1921, after being
completely exonerated, he served 2 more terms in the House. As far back as the
turn of the cent, Berger was editor of the "Social Democrat" In 1911, after Mil-
waukee's gov. became socialist, Victor Berger founded & edited the "Milwaukee
Leader** which became the most important Socialist paper in the country. He served
as chairman of nat executive committee of Socialist Party, from 1927 until his death
in 1929. At 19. hy. crosses SAUK OL, which divides city of PORT WASHING-
TON, 29^ important lake fishing port with an artificial harbor in an int L-shaped
setting. A great bluff on (S) side of city marks site where Ozaukee Cty. farmers
fought against being drafted for Civil War. A thousand rioters ransacked Draft
Commissioner POT'S EL (still standing at 405 Wisconsin St), threw him down the
stairs, loaded the sin. 4th of July cannon with the only cannon ball in town & took
over the bluff, until Gov. troops captured 80 men & broke further resistance. Port
Washington is an industrial city. Besides commercial fishing, it manufactures office
equipment, rubber goods & machinery. PTS. OF INT.: Old Pebble EL (1848) built
by Edw. Dodge & his wife with pebbles from shore. Now is gate of Wis. Electric
Power Co. Blong H. at 317 Pier St is a century old. Lincoln lived in it for a
short time after the death of Ann Rutledge, At 43. is JOUET & MARQUETTE
TRIPS OUT OF MILWAUKEE 577
MARKER comm. their travel along L. Mick's shore. 49. OOSTBURG, sett, by
Dutch immigrants. It was off shore here that the ill-fated "Phoenix" in 1847 burnt
with its load of immigrants. More than 150 drowned. At c.50.5. J. with Cty.KK
leading (R) to Teny Andrae St Pk. 2 m (camp sites.pic.); 120 as. of dunes, pines &
sandy beach.
57. SHEBOYGAN. RR. & bus conns.
Shebpygan, on shore of L. Mich, at mouth of Sheboygan R., had 2 beginnings. One
was in 1835 when lumber prospectors from the East built 20 frame bldgs. In the
1837 depression, real estate crashed & the bldgs. were torn down & moved to an-
other town; only 1 remained. The settlement became wilderness again. Yankee
traders returned next yr. to build once more, this time to take root. The town, in
1844, still known as 'The Mouth," attracted, because of its good harbor, lighth. &
pier, settlers who came by way of the Gt. Ls. Lake steamships, particularly from
Chicago & Buffalo, made daily calls, carrying each time new settlers. Most of these
were German immigrants. Many were Lutherans who objected to Prussia's attempt
to unite Calvinists & Lutherans. By 1849 members of other sects settled here. The
next yr., although the town had only a hotel, blacksmith shop, foundry & brewery,
it boasted 3 wkly. papers. First Dutch language paper in U.S. was published in
Sheboygan. The "Forty-eighters" a generation of Germans who sought religious
& political freedom in America did much to establish a fine community spirit.
They kept up religious practices & cultural activities of the homeland & org. the
famous Turnvereine (1854) to provide for physical culture & at same time serve as
a political meeting ground. By 1860 wheat raising was important enough to support
20 flour mills & dairying was being fostered. First cheese factory was built in 1 864.
Lumber from Wis.'s woodland & the skilled foreign cabinetmakers made Sheboygan
famous for its furniture, particularly chairs. This industry, however, declined with
Wis.*s forests. Sheboygan now manufactures enamel ware & plumbing fixtures.
FT. OF INT.: N. 6th St & Center Ave., Siieboygan County Ctibu (1933.mod.W.C.
Weeks).
SIDE TRIP: W. of Sheboygan 4m is Kotikf Village in which the KoMer Plant (O.tours
10 ajn. & 2 p.mJune-Sept), nationally known manufacturers of bathroom fixtures. There
are 450 cottages housing about V6 of its employees. To (S) of town is Estate of Walter J.
Kohler who had been chairman of the company & one-time Gov. of Wis.
87. MANITOWOC
Served by Chi. & NW. RR. & Soo Line; also Orange Bus & Green Bay Stage. Carferry
Lines: Ann Arbor & Pere Marquette, on L. shore.
A fair-sized city, Manitowoc sprawls along its harbor, whose shipyards once built
the great lake steamers. When iron vessels replaced wooden ones, Manitowoc too
declined; but only till World War I, when the yards again operated at full capacity.
From then to World War n, the largest & most modern carferries, tug boats, tankers,
dredges & pleasure craft were built. During last war, shipyards devoted themselves
almost entirely to building submarines for U.S. Navy. Manitowoc has world's larg-
est malting & evaporated milk plants. It is also the aluminum center of ^ the world.
First Wis. pea-canning factory was built here & Manitowoc still leads in canning.
It has 60 different industries, among them the largest tinsel mfg. plant At Maniv
towoc is J. with St.151.
SIDE TRIP: On latter (W) 12.5m to VaMers, birthpL of Thorstein Veblen. Beyond 3m is
J. with CtyA leading (L) 2.5m to St. Nazainz, Cam. community developed from Utopian
dream of Father Oschwald's "experiment in Christian Communism.'* Land was held in com-
mon. Villagers raised their own food & manufactured all clothes & necessities. After Father
Oschwald's death, 1873, complications arose & the Salvatorian Fathers & Sisters, who
still operate the seminary & convent, took over.
V, MILWAUKEE (N) to FOND DU LAC. 63. US41. Via: Menomonee Falls.
US41 leaves Milwaukee by way of Lisbon Ave. going (NW) & at 13. reaches ME-
NOMONEE FALLS, practically a suburb of Milwaukee with most of its wage
earners working in the metropolis. At 32. just outside Richfield is J. with Cty.P.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 5m to where Holy Hill (1,361') can be seen (R); 2.5m beyond,
Rd. reaches top of the hill on which pilgrimage ch. & Monastery of Carmelite Fathers is.
In 1855 1st little ch. was built on this spot where miraculous cures were said to have taken
place, & to this shrine of "Our Lady," even today the faithful make frequent visits & pil-
grimages. Stations of the Cross are along the winding footpath, at which the devout stop
to pray, on their way to the crest.
578 TRIPS OUT OF MILWAUKEE
43.5. THERESA, lying in kettle moraine terrain, was named for daughter of Solo-
mon Juneau, founder of Milwaukee (see),
63. FONB DU LAC. T . , , AT A ,.
Fond du Lac, on farther end of L. Winnebago, Wis.'s largest L., was a trading post
as early as 1785. First permanent white settlers, Colwert & Pier, came in 1836. It
remained a sm. town until 1 850 when logs began coming down Wolf R. to L. Winne-
bago, & almost immediately sawmills flourished. In a little more than a decade, 11
mills cut 61 million feet of lumber. When logs no longer were plentiful, city con-
centrated on transportation. Plank Rds. were built bet. Fond du Lac & Sheboygan.
By 1859, a RR. was completed to Chicago & other lines & hys. converged at tip of
L. t helping to make transition from lumbering to present day prosperity. It now has
more than 70 large industrial plants incl. leather goods, burial caskets & refrigera-
tors. PTS. OF INT.: St Paul's Caifcedral (Episc.Amer.Goth.). The inter, is especially
int. for its Oberammergau wood carvings; contains effigy tomb & death masks.
YL MILWAUKEE (S) to KENOSHA. 36. St42. Via: Racine.
RRs Milwaukee RK; Chi. & NW.; Mil. & N. Shore Line; T.M.E.R.& L.Co. (electric).
Beginning at E, State & Milwaukee Sts. St42 runs (S) on Milwaukee & becomes
the lakeshore route to Chicago.
0. MILWAUKEE (see). 4.5. SOUTH SHORE PK. (bath.). A short distance beyond,
St Mary's Academy (Cath.gkls). Near-by is St Francis Seminary (1856) whose
former director, Rev. Francis Haas, is now nationally recognized labor mediator;
& St ACTMllaiMis Orphan Asylum. Milwaukee's 1st Cath. Ch., St Peter's (1839) was
removed to seminary grounds. 7.5. CUDAHY, home of Patrick Cudahy's famous
meat packing plants. John Cudahy, U.S. Ambassador, & Gilda Gray, of "shimmy"
fame, lived here. 10. SOUTH MILWAUKEE, one of Milwaukee's largest industrial
suburbs and economically a part of it. Noted for heavy machinery & bldg. materials.
Largest producer of excavating machinery in the world. First Congr. & St Mark's
Cits. (Episc.) are more than 100 yrs. old. 14.5. CARROLLVILLE, well-known for
glue & chemical plants of U.S. Glue Co.
26. RACINE. (RR. & bus conns. Usual accoms.)
Racine, port on L. Mich., is 2nd largest & most industrialized city in Wis., a big
jump from 1841 when lots on Main St sold for $2, now valued at $1,700 a ft. When
founded by Gilbert Knapp (1834), it was known as Port Gilbert After 1850 came
influx of foreign-born Eng., Irish, Czechs, Germans & Scands., who founded chs.,
schs. & foreign language newspapers. Near turn of the cent., Racine became indus-
trialized, freight lines crossed through it <& harbor improvements were made. Case
machinery & agric. implements, Nash auto-parts, Johnson's wax & HorHck's Malted
Milk are internationally known <& foremost among city's 129 industries. Labor is
well recognized, with 90% of shops unionized. PTS. OF INT.: (1) 7th & Wisconsin
Ave., Cm, (Mod.Holabird & Rootentrance reliefs by Carl Milles,Swedish sculptor).
First Cth. was built 1842, (2) College Ave. & 7th St, First Presh. Ch. (1851.Gr.Rev.
by Lucas Bradley). (3) 1135 Main St., Taylor BL (1853.Gr.Rev.). (4) 1235 Main St,
Knight EL (1842), with steep gables & leaded windows; built by a bachelor who
forgot to include closets & a pantry. (5) 1274 Main St, Hunt H. (1848.Gr.Rev.fine
proportions). (6) 1319 S. Main St & DeKoven Ave., DeKoven Foundation formerly
Racine College, now known as Cove Sens., one for crippled children, the other for
children with brain injuries suffered at birth. (7) 16th St. bet Howe & Franklin,
S. C Johnson & Sons Office Bldg,, usually referred to as "glass tower" (a stream-
lined wing-shaped penthouse by F. L. Wright). Wright also built Herbert Johnson's
private residence, "Wingspread" (c.1938). (8) 1012 16th St, Johnson Plant (O.tours
10-11:30 & 2-3.Mon.-Fri.). (9) Packard Ave. S. of 17th St, Nash Motor Plant (O.
10-4.Mon.-FrL). (10) 12th St & Herrick Ave., Co-op Corners, entirely taken over
by co-ops that began in 1934. Today have 2,500 people, owning a quarter million
dollars in assets with sales approaching the $1,000,000 mark. It incl. service stas.,
SEpermarket, insurance agency, coal & fuel yard. It is one of largest city co-ops in
U.S. (1 1) 941 Lake Ave*, H. of Olympia Brown Willis, early suffrage leader; worked
with Susan B. Anthony. (12) 2109 Northwestern Ave., Horiick Malted Milk Plant
(N.O.; Tudor Goth.). (13) 700 State St, J. L Case Co. Plant ((Xappl). (14) On North-
western Ave. Horiick Mil (1836). Orig. dam still stands.
MADISON, WISCONSIN 579
36. KENOSHA, (RR. & bus conns. Usual accoms.)
Kenosha, highly industrialized city, is situated along L. Mich., mfg. machinery,
autos, beds & hosiery. Its pop. is largely of German, Ital. & Polish extraction. New
England farmers of 3rd & 4th generation settled here as early as 1835 & brought
with them ideas of a free press, free schs. & the authority to tax themselves. Kenosha
was then known as Southport & its progressive newspaper, "The Telegraph," whose
editor, C. L. Sholes, became the inventor of the typewriter, was wont to advocate,
in particular, a free public school. First free sen. in Wis. was est here 1849. As early
as 1844, the "Wis. Phalanx," a Fourierist communal colony, was founded here by
20 men from Southport, who then went to Ripon to begin their experiment. The
town's name was changed to Kenosha in 1850; not until 1884 did the Fed. Gov.
appropriate $200,000 for harbor improvements. From then dates Kenosha's upward
swing. By 1915, Simmons Bedding, Chicago & Rockford Hosiery, & Nash Auto Co.
had joined other nat. manufacturers operating here. In 5 yrs. each employed bet.
4,000 to 5,000 workers. Its peaceful labor history was interrupted in 1928 with the
Allen-A hosiery workers strike, which lasted 18 months. Strike was lost & Kenosha
remained open shop. In 1933 Nash & Simmons workers struck & this time gained
recognition of their unions. Since then, A.F. of L. & C.I.O. act together in the Trades
& Labor Council, & support a weekly labor paper. City Manager System (1st in
Wis.), under which Kenosha is governed, has lowered adm. costs & greatly improved
conditions. PTS. OF INT.: 55th St. & 5th Ave., Simmons Bedding Co. (O.appL),
occupying 5 sq. blocks. Sheridan Rd. to 10th Ave., Civic Center, contains Kenosha
Hist & Art Mas. (O.Sun. 1:30-5); also Kenosna Cty. Hist Mas. (O.8-5 wks.). 1118
61st St., Rev. R. H. Deming EL was a sta. on Underground Railroad in the 1850's.
1420 63rd St, Amer. Brass Co. (O.appl.), now a subsidiary of Anaconda Copper
Mining Co. 57th St. & 25th Ave., Nash-Kefrinator Plant (tours 10-2;Mon.-Fri),
largest factory in Kenosha.
TIL MILWAUKEE (SW) to LAKE GENEVA. 47. St36. Via: Greendale &
Burlington.
Hy. travels (SW) & at 11. passes GREENDALE (see US45). 36. BURLINGTON,
sett. 1835 by Vermonters who named it for their capital city. To the W. 2 m along river-
bank is site of Voree Strang Mormon Colony, which in 1844 was known as Garden
of Peace. Jas. J. Strang, its founder, was disciple of Jos. Smith until he broke with
fot'm & started his own colony at Voree. Colony was an economic failure & in 1849
abandoned Voree for Beaver L, Mich. (see). Strang's grave is in the Voree burial
ground. St36 reaches at 47. LAKE GENEVA, known as the "Newport of Chicago
society," & is frequented mainly by Chicagoans who have their homes & big estates
there. The influx from Chicago became especially heavy after the Chicago fire in
1871, when wealthy Chicagoans moved their families here. Town hotel, aear Fon-
tana Williams Bay, was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright Here on a hill, 190' high,
is famous Yerkes Observatory (O.freeJune l-Octl.Satl:30-3;Octl-June 1,10-12.
1897), operated by Univ. of Chicago. It houses world's largest refracting telescope
(40") set within a mammoth dome, gift of Chas. T. Yerkes. Reg. abounds in game
fish & the famous cisco. In winter, fishermen set up a "town" of tar-paper shacks on
the frozen L. & ice fish. Ciscos are caught at night, usually with flares & bright-
colored bait St36 climbs a ridge & reaches L. Como (R) & Cisco Bay (L). Further
0.5 m is Williams Bay (swim.boatrefresh.f.license & guides.speedboat trips). Winter
sports & carnivals during season. At W. end of lake is Fontana (swim.boat). Here,
a century before, was camp of Potawatomi Chief, Big Toe. On S. shore of lake is
Northwestern Military & Naval Academy & some Ind. mounds.
MADISON
RR. Stas.: Milwaukee RR., 644 W. Washington Ave.; Chi. & NW., 201 S. Blair St.
Bus Sta.: Union Bus Terminal, 122 W. Washington Ave. Airport: Municipal, on US51
6m (N), Northwest Airline. Accoms.: All types.
Madison is beautifully situated on an isthmus formed by Ls. Mendota & Monona,
with Ls. Waubesa & Kegonsa to the (SE) joined by the Yahara R. The impressive
Capitol rises 285 ' above the heights of the isthmus, its granite dome crowned by
the gilt statue of "Forward" visible for miles, from any approach to Madison. It is
seat of St. Univ. which occupies the wooded shoreland of L. Mendota stretching to
580 MADISON, WISCONSIN
the (S) & (NE). Fed. Judge John D. Doty saw its beauty & realized the possibilities
of making this "four lakes region" the capital, when he 1st passed through in 1829.
By 1836 he owned huge tracts of land on the isthmus & was able to persuade the
legislature to choose it as the site of the capital & location of the Univ. From a
* 4 beautiful but uninhabitable'* wilderness grew the present handsome city. In 1846
it was inc. as a village & was named after James Madison who had died 10 yrs.
before. But development lagged until Jairus Fairchild from Milwaukee financed
the enterprise. Soon after, although the isthmus was still a for., the town became
populated, spurred on by arrival of the 1st RR. Business began, banks sprang up,
mills operated continuously & public building went on furiously for a time.
The Univ. was slower in its growth. While Fairchild was mayor (1856), commercial
& cultural interests vied with each other. Bayard Taylor, James R. Lowell & Horace
Greeley visited the town & gave lectures. The financial panic of the next yr. slowed
up business ventures & stopped the bringing in of Eastern labor. Civil War brought
back the boom because Madison was a center of war activities. Camp Randall on St.
Fair Grounds had 7,000-8,000 men. The Univ., however, suffered; hardly a student
remained. In 1866, it was completely reorganized & from then began to expand. In
1904 Rbt M, LaFoIlette was elected gov. & the Progressive movement, known as
the "Wis. idea," was launched. It was backed by Prof. John R, Commons, famous
political economist of the Univ. After 10 yrs. the adm. changed but the "Wis. idea**
continued unaffected by alternating incumbents. In 1917, Univ. students, in a
patriotic fever, burned LaFoIlette in effigy, because of his pacifist speeches. After
file war, Madison again sett down. In 1918, it had 35 chs. & 35 labor unions.
Despite being known as a cultural center, it is also an industrialized city & ranks
4th in St. Town & Gown still form its 2 main sets of society but frequently these,
too, meet on common ground.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) In Capitol Pk., St Capitol (1906-17.by Geo.B.Postltal.Ren.). Its
granite dome is the only one in the country & its height is 2nd only to the Capitol
Dome in Washington. The gilt bronze statue of "Forward" is by Dan. C. French.
(2) 2 W. Miffiin St., City Hall (1858.by Donnell & Kutzbock). Top fl. of bldg. was
used as an opera house for many yrs. (3) 110 W. Washington Ave., Grace Ch. (1858.
Episc.Congr.Goth.), oldest in Madison (org.1839). (4) 16 S. Carroll St., Old Baptist
Ch* (1854), now faqs. of Wis. TeL Co. Ole Bull & Adelina Patti appeared here in
joint recital; Wendell Phillips & other notables lectured here. (5) 206 Monona Ave.,
David Atwood H. (1851), home of founder of "Wis. State Journal." (6) 22 N. Butler
St, Lamp H (1895.by Frank Lloyd Wright), a forerunner in style of Ms Oak Pk.
houses. (7) 651 Williamson St, Fauerbadb Brewery (O.appL1848.Goth.& Romanes,
by Fred Sprecher). (8) 130 E. Gilman St, Executive Mansion (1854), at one time
home of Ole Bull & his wife, Sarah Thorp. They had the lawns terraced in Norweg.
style. (9) 424 N. Pinckney St, Pierce H. (1858.by Donnell & Kutzbock). (10) 12 E.
Gilman St, College Women's Club (1850.adds.1880), built for J. T. Clark & en-
larged for U.S. Sen. Wm. F. Vilas. (11) 521 N. Henry St, Vilas H. (1851), home of
Levi B. Vilas, 4th mayor of Madison & father of the U.S. Senator, now Stone Lodge.
(12) 422 N. Henry St, Braley H. (1880); here Ella Wheeler Wilcox wrote "Laugh
and the World Laughs with you." (13) 508 N. Frances St., Dudley H. (1855.com-
pleted after Civil War), with large low-set windows. Now known as the German H.;
also home for women students. (14) 120 Ely PL, Airplane H. (1906.by Frank Lloyd
Wright), typical of "Illinois Prairie" style, designed for Prof. E. A. Gilmore. (15)
At end of concrete drive bet Allen St. & Highland Ave., U.S. Forest Products Lab.
(1932.by Holabird & Root;mod.industrial style; 5-story-U-shaped bldg.; tours 2:30
daily exc.Sun.). Lab. is operated by U.S. Forest Service & is equipped to do every
possible research in wood products. About 3,000 samples of wood are identified
annually for commercial use or in law court decision. Info, used in identifying the
Lindbergh kidnapper was obtained through analysis here. (16) 3706 Nakoma Rd.,
Old Spring Hotel (1854), on main route, famous for its cookies & coffee. Rbt. La
Follette, Sr., when a boy, frequented it. Prof. James Dickson, present owner, added
a 2-story Georg.Col. porch. (17) 3402 Monroe St, Plow Inn (1836.post-Col. lime-
stone) was overnight stopping place in stagecoach days; now a residence. Stucco
hides ong. walls. (18) 451 W. Wilson St, Giles H. (middle of 19th centVictcream-
colored bnck). (19) 314 S. Broom St, B. O. Webster H. (yellow-frame), close to L.
Monona. 1880-90 was residence of Rbt M. LaFoIlette. Here he entertained many
distinguished guests, among them Theodore Roosevelt (20) 200 W. Main St , St
TRIPS OUT OF MADISON 581
Raphael's Ch. (1854.1ong & high with Georg.type steeple in Wren style), 2nd Cath.
Ch. of Madison. (21) 214 W. Washington Ave., former Synagogue (1863.one of 1st
synagogues in Wis.;Vict.Goth.), served later as a Unit. Social Hall, W.C.T.U. hqs.,
a chapel for 3 other denominations, funeral home & now the Ch. of Christ.
(22) Univ. of Wis. (bldgs.O.during sch.hpurs) spreads for a mile along crest of ridge
bordering S. shore of L. Mendota. Univ. grounds are divided into 3 sees.: Upper
Campus, Lower Campus, & Agric. Campus, with outlying centers. Bldgs. erected
since 1900 are in mod. Ital. Ren. by Geo. B. Ferry & Alfred C. Clas, J. T. W. Jen-
nings & recently Arthur Peabody. Some of the bldgs. on Lower Campus: Men's
Gym. & Armory (1894.Nprman fortress design); Mem- Union (1928.O.lst Sun.of
month.Ren.); Lib. (O.during univ.sessions 8 a.m.-10 p.m.;summer 8-4), contains
theater, club, 2 broadcasting stas., also a famous coll. of material on Geo. Rogers
Clarke, built 1900 to house the Wis. Hist. Soc. Univ. shares bldg. with the soc. &
Wis. Academy of Sciences, Arts & Letters. Upper Campus: Science Hall (1888.
Romanes.by A.C.Koch) Geology Mus. (O.8-5 wks.); Radio Hall, hqs. & studios
for WHA, claimed to be oldest radio sta. in U.S.; North Hall (1851. oldest bldg. on
campus) where John Muir lived as a student; Bascom Hall, on the hill (1857. mod.
Roman Doric style), contains many of the general adm. offices. Agric. Campus:
Studio of the Artist in Residence (1937-built for John Steuart Curry, 1st artist in
residence appointed by the Univ.; Univ. Farms (841 as.) with labs., barns, & poultry
bldgs.; also Animal Husbandry & Stock Pavillion (1908). Camp Randall, center of
Civil War activities; later became St. Fair Grounds & now Univ. Athletic Field.
Univ. Stadium (1918.with adds.), with seating capacity of 45,000.
TRIPS OUT OF MADISON
L MADISON (S) to BELOIT. 55. US51. Via: Janesvffle, Edgerton, Stoughton.
At 19. (S) on US51 is STOUGHTON. Dan. Webster bought land here in 1838.
City's oldest enterprise was wagon-making, hence named "Wagon City." It now
manufactures auto bodies. 30. EDGERTON. Tobacco, introduced here in 1854, is
grown in great quantity. ALBION, at 34. was sett, in 1841, by Norweg. & Eng. An
Academy & Normal Institute begun by Seventh Day Baptists dates back to 1854.
Opp. is their ch. under which is the excavated sta. of Underground RR. 41. JANES-
VBLLE, an industrial town on Rock R., founded by Henry F. James in 1836. In
1837, he built a tavern & a ferry operating to E. bank. Soon the village grew into a
trans, center. Stages passed through, boats came up the Rock R.; even steamships
up from the Miss. In 1922, Gen. Motors set up Chevrolet & Fisher Body plants &
city prospered^ until the depression struck. The 2 plants were then shut down for
15 months & since have reached an all-time peak. Janesville is also home of Parker
Pen Co. & manufactures cotton & woolen goods, shades, awnings & punch presses.
The "Daily Gazette" under various names has had 102 yrs. of service. W. of the hy.
l m is Carrie Jacobs Bond H., now Clark's Filling Sta., & 3 m (S), Frances E. Wfflard
Home & Sen. She was founder of W.C.T.U. Grounds are now Youth Hostel. On
Cty.A, 7 m (E) Ella Wheeler Wilcox (1850-1919) lived as a child.
55. BELOIT, on Wis.-HL line, is seat of Beioit College (1847.Georg.CoL). It has a
very important anthropological & archeological dept Roy Chapman Andrews,
famous explorer & naturalist, was born & received his training here. Logan Mas.
on campus (O.I 869) has more than a million aboriginal artifacts, many of which
were fashioned by Cro-Magnon craftsmen 35,000 yrs. ago. Theo. Lyman Wright
Art Hall (O) contains coll. of sculptures, paintings & prints; W. Grand Ave., Hist.
Soc. (exhibs.). City has over 60 industrial plants & is one of the best winter-sport
areas in Wis. Annually in Dec., a Winter Frolic is held. Beioit is one of the oldest
settlements. Joseph Thibault, in 1824, est. here a trading post, & permanent settlers
arrived in 1837.
EL MADISON (N) to PORTAGE. 37. US5I
At 5. hy. passes L. MENDOTA (R). For about 16 m Rd. passes through rich agric.
land with large farms, well developed through systematic crop rotation. 23. POY-
NETTE (R. on dirt Rd. to St. Experimental Game & Fur Farm). From 26. US51
follows old Military Rd. built in 1835 bet. Ft Howard at Green Bay & Ft. Crawford
at Prairie du Chien, into PORTAGE at 37., founded by travelers & traders of the
Fox-Wis. waterway, a continuous natural water passage bet. the St. Lawrence &
582 TRIPS OUT OF MADISON
Gulf of Mexico. Portage Is birtfapi. of Fred. J. Turner, noted historian, & of Zona
Gale, a number of whose novels are based on Portage people. PTS. OF INT.: Wis.
St. & Wauona Ave. JoMet-Manpette Marker, comm. 1st portage made here. Edge-
water & Mac Sts., Pawkette Marker, site of 1st ferry across the Wis. Canal & Mac
Sts., Curling Rink, where internal, matches are held, known here as Bonspiel, a
combination of the German word "Bahn" or track & "Spiel" or game.
JIL MADISON (NW) to WISCONSIN RAPIDS. 109. US12 & Stl3. Via: Prairie
du Sac & Wisconsin Dells. Leaving Madison, US 12 & St. 13 unite, going (NW). At
24.5. they cross Wis. R. & reach SAUK CITY & PRAIRIE DU SAC, twin cities.
Sauk City, founded 1842 by Count Agoston Haraszthy, colorful Hungarian noble-
man, who brought with Mm the Freethinker philosophy, started the 1st "Freie Ge~
meinde" & gave to Sauk City the reputation, even abroad, of the Freethinkers
Heaven." The 2 cities, built on site of Sauk villages, have a predominantly Euro-
pean flavor. Prairie du Sac is mainly Protestant while Sauk City is Cath. (German)*
& rivalry bet the 2 still continues. August Derleth & Mark Schorer, Sauk City's
well-known novelists, have recorded & interpreted the life of pioneer Wis.
US12 crosses the prairie & climbs BARABOO RANGE at 34. 38. J. with St.159
which in l m joins St. 123 into Devil's L. St. Pk* (1,313 as.camp.free for 1st 2 wks.
thereafter sm.fee.hik.bath.pic.golf .), which lies in an area of great geological interest
After the glacial age Wis. R. carved its way through quartzite rock, leaving cleft to
be filled up, thus forming the L. & many odd rock formations such as Devil's Door-
way, The Needle, Turk's Head, & Ancient Rock. Bluffs are 600' above sea level &
densely forested. Only a hiking path around the L. Pk. is of interest not only to
geologists, but also to biologists because it forms dividing line bet. Wis.'s N. & S.
flora & fauna. Area has 3 Ind. mounds: Eagle Mound on S. shore; Bear & Lynx
mounds on N. shore. At 40. (R) 1.5 m to Bamboo, resort city, named for Fr. trader,
Jean Baribault In 1837, the Wiirnebago who owned land at confluence of the Wis.
& Baraboo ceded it to U.S. In center of town still stand bldgs. used by Ringling Bros.
who began their circus here. In 1907 the Bros, sold their circus to Barnum & Bailey,
which became "Greatest Show on Earth." Located near Baraboo are giant Badger
Ordnance Works, built during World War n, $125,000,000; produced smokeless &
rocket powder.
US 12 again heads N. passing L. BELTON (airport & golf course) into city of
WISCONSIN DELLS at 53. Town, formerly known as Kilbourn, is starting pt. for
water trips up & down the R. through magic rock formations of the Dells. There
are miles of weird & richly colored bluffs, & rugged sandstone cliffs, washed out by
the ancient R.'s force, into amazing shapes & forms, 30,000 yrs. old (excursion boats
at frequent intervals;fee). Steamers follow serpentine route & pass such whimsically
named pts. as CMmney Rack, Hornet's Nest, Swallow's Nest, Turtle & Alligator
Rocks, Inkstand, Sugar Bowl, Devil's Anvil & Witch's Gulch. Hundreds of caves &
grottos with van-colored mosses & flowers line the shores; waterfalls & cascades
are not far inland. (All types of accoms. in town;camp.& pic.). Winnebago Inds. hold
annual ceremonials at Stand Rock, a natural bowl, so accoustically perfect that the
slightest whisper can be heard. Season for visiting Dells May 1 to Nov. 1. Just N.
of the city is Rocky Arbor Roadside Pk. Int rock formations in midst of heavily
wooded area. (pic.camp.excellent for overnight tenting or with trlr.). At the Dells
trip cont on St. 13 which runs (N) 56 m to Wisconsin Rapids at 109., a large cran-
berry center. One company represents 90% of St's growers. Town now has modern
industries of various kinds, but paper making predominates.
IV. MADISON (SE) to LAKE GENEVA* 72. US12. Via: Fort Atkinson, White-
water & Elkhora.
US12 joined with US18 travels (E), then (SE). 32. FORT ATKINSON. Here in
1832 Gen. Henry Atkinson, while pursuing Black Hawk, set up a stockade & 2
blockhs. In 1873 Wm. Dempster Hoard, who perhaps contributed most toward
making Wis. the dairyland of the country, set up the paper here which later became
Hoard's "Dairyman," read today by most farmers. Hoard was Gov. of Wis. (1889-
91) during which time he sponsored anti-oleomargarine legislation. Besides being
a shipping & trading center for reg.'s dairy farmers, Ft. Atkinson is also a mfg. town
producing among its various articles, musical saws of great perfection. It publishes
the annual "Sawing News of the World." On Milwaukee Ave., in Pub. Lib. is Ft,
AfMnscHi Hist Soc. Mus, (O.Sat 10-12 & 2-5 p.m.). 44. WHITEWATER, on whose
TRIPS OUT OF MADISON 583
shores stands an old Mill (1839). Whitewater is home of St Teachers College & of
Morris Pratt Institute, founded 1883, to prepare students for "the Spiritualist min-
istry or to develop psychic powers/* 62. ELKHORN (see US12). 71. LAKE
GENEVA (see Milwaukee Trip VH).
V. MADISON (W) to MONROE. 36. US18 & St69. Via: Verona & New Claras.
On US18 (W) to VERONA at 9. Here trip cont. on St.69 (S) to NEW GLARUS
at 27. New Glarus on Little Sugar R., is known as Little Switzerland because of its
Swiss pop. whose parents came from Glarus, Switzerland. They lived in compara-
tive poverty for 20 yrs., until they turned to dairying; then prosperity began. Their
special type of Swiss cheese became known throughout U.S. & had a ready market
everywhere. Annually on 2nd Sun. & Mon. of Sept. people of New Glarus celebrate
Kilbi, a festival that originated in the old Canton. After the ch. festivities, parades,
dancing & playing cont. for 2 days. S. of New Glarus, St.69 passes through a valley
for l m & reaches New Glares Roadside Pk. (43 as.pic.facils.). Mon. here comm.
the "Old Lead Trail," leading into lead mines of SW. Wis. In the woods are still
traces of "badger holes," as the lead diggings were formerly called. At 45. MON-
ROE, known as "Swiss Cheese Center of the U.S." Annually a cheese festival is
held with parades & pomp; even a cheese queen is selected.
VL MADISON (W) to PRAIRIE DU CfflEN. 98. US18. Via: Plattevffle & Bridge-
port.
On Monroe St. (W) US 18 leaves Madison, runs past swamps, glacial hills & boulders
(S) into the Swiss cheese area. 20. MT. HOREB, Swiss & Norweg. village. At 23.5.
J. with dirt Rd. leading (R) to Little Norway (O.sm.fee), a village of sm. houses built
by Norweg. craftsmen, & furnished in Scand. style to look like the Valley of Hves,
with coll. of Norwegiana incl. Grieg Mss. & 2 canes of Ole Bull.
24. J. with gravel Rd. going (R) to Cave of the Mounds, odd rock formations & weE
preserved fossils. At 25. US18 passes BLUE MOUNDS & joins Military Rd., a trl.
used by Amer. soldiers (1835-38). 42. DODGEVUXE, metropolis of the lead region
(1827-29) named for Gov. Henry Dodge, colorful Wis. character. Before coming to
Wis. he was implicated in Aaron Burr conspiracy & indicted by grand jury. Infuri-
ated at their charge he "thrashed 9 jurors & the indictment was dropped." He is
said to have mined Ind. land illegally & was deaf to protests; finally Inds. gave up
title to the land. He was named 1st Terr. Gov. because of his handling of the Inds.
during Black Hawk War. Later his old enemy, James Doty (see US45), replaced
him. He also served as U.S. Sen. At Dodgeville is J. with US151.
SIDE TRIP: On US151 (L) hy. passes through Wis.'s oldest sett. reg. its former mining
country & only part of Wis. that is unglaciated. By 1828, the mining boom swept through
here. Early miners came from Mo. & Ky., but after 1832, the Cornish arrived. While Mil-
waukee was still a trading post, this reg. nad 10,000 people. Lead mining reached its peak
bet. 1856-57 & then had quick decline. The miners turned to farming as soon as the land
was for sale.
92. J. With Cty.C.
SIDE TRIP: On latter (L) to Wyalosing St Pk. (facilsJor camp.pic.no bath.), lying high
on Miss. R. bluffs, with caves & water falls. Marquette & Joliet traveled along the upper
Miss. Waterway bet. Green Bay & Prairie du Chien was for 150 yrs. main artery of travel
in NW. On Sentinel Ridge (5900 is Pt Lookout (fine view of Miss. R.) & Signal PL, boast-
ing 3 bear effigy mounds among its Ind. earthworks, said to be almost intact.
US18 speeds (W) through hardwood areas & past old quarries. 98. PRAIRIE DU
CHIEN, named (1781) for Fox Chief, whom the Fr. called Le Chien ("the dog"),
is a former Ind. & fur traders* stop-over & 2nd oldest city in st, now a leisurely R.
town where the Miss. & Wis. meet. St. Friol, one of the Is. on which oldest part of
city is built, is connected by bridges to other sees, of the city. PTS. OF INT.: On
Bolvin & 1st Sts., Amer. Fur Co. Post was built by Rolette, 1835, & rented to John
J. Astor, organizer of the fur post, 1842. (Now private residence & fur storage place.)
Jos. RoUette, company's 1st agent, is buried in old Fr. Cemetery (N) of city. Her-
cules Dousman, Astor's most influential agent, made his fortune here. Villa Loras
(O.May l-Nov.l;fee.guides), his residence, is in Dousman Pk. (swim.pool & golf).
Villa was built, 1843, on site of Ft. Shelby (remod.1872), a gracious "great house"
of the North, true example of mid-19th cent Wis. with int. furnishings. It was
destroyed by Brit at end of War of 1812 & was rebuilt by Amers. St Mary's College
(Cath.) is now on site of 1st Ft. Crawford. Jeff. Davis (see Miss.), then a young Lt
under Zachary Taylor, fell in love here with Sarah Knox, who later became his wife.
5S4 TRIPS OUT OF MABISON
Ft Crawford is now marked by a Military Hospital & Bear-by cemetery. On villa
grounds is Mus. exhibiting articles found during excavation of Fts. Shelby, & Craw-
ford (O.daily.adm.)- Int. also are: Diamond Jo Steamship Line Warehouse on nvca>
bank (1862); Northwest For Co. Bldg. on N. Beaumont Rd. (now a taxi office)^ &
the former Hqs. of Capt W. Knowlton (1842), comdr. in Mex War (now occupied
by League of Women Voters); St Gabriel's Ch. (1839-40.Cath.), under direction of
Father Mazzachellia, pioneer in Wis religious ^^Sf^^^^ **
are in bloom in Aug. US18 crosses Upper Miss. R. Wildlife & Fish Refuge, which
extends 3GO m along Miss. R. with hqs. at Winona, Minn.
VIL MADISON <NW) to MCHLA1OT CENTER. 64. US14.
US14 & US12 unite for 5.5^ leaving Madison going (NW). Here is J. with side Rd.
leading (R) to Trailer Town, on a 48-a. wooded tract ^overlooking. L. Mendota (all
facilslr trlr.camp.elec.laundry.store.gas sta.). 14. CROSS PLAINS. Veterans of
War of 1812 sett, here bet 1832-50 but many left for CaL during the ^gold rush.
Christma EL, now residence, was a tavern in stagecoach days. 19. BLACK HARIH*
Here is Patrons' Mercantile Co., one of oldest farmer co-ops in state. 22. MAZO-
MANDL Brit Temperance Emigration Soc. arrived here in 1843. Later German
immigrants came whose bldgs. resembled Rhine castles with turrets & high gables.
The Salem Kirche of handwrought stone & delicate lines is from this period. 36.
TOWER HILL ST. PK. (108 as.camp.pic.no overnight facils.). Here in 1828 stood
old village of Helena & on banks of Wis. R. still stand the remains of old Shot Tower,
where shot was manufactured & shipped down the R. Lead from the mines of SW.
Wis, was hauled by ox team to smelter on the hill. Then it was dropped down the
shot* tower 200' to solidify into balls in^the cold water below. Industry cont. for over
30 yrs. until ore was exhausted. Here is J. with St.23.
SIDE TRIP: On tMs Rd. (L) 0.5m to TaKesaB (no pic.but a conducted tour of grounds,
fee) home of Frank Lloyd Wright, with roofs paralleling ridges of the hill around which
it is built Its name is Welsh, meaning "shining brow," & its history is tragic. Present struc-
ture is 3rd built on same spot. The 1st two were destroyed by fire & Taliesin III was almost
lost in bankruptcy. Friends rescued it. A fellowship was est in 1933 & c.30 young men or
women serve apprenticeship in the arts & architecture here.
40. SPRING GREEN, Here side by side stand the Chs. & parsonages of Caths.,
Metfas., & Congregationalists, on land given by A. C. Daley. In the village is a saw-
mill run by Miss Maurice Cavanaugh, "Lady Logger," who began her work in Minn.
in 1926 & has since operated 11 sawmills in both sts. 64. HIGHLAND CENTER
(1849) Woman's Suffrage was advocated here as early as 1882. Frank Lloyd Wright
was bora here (1869). He designed flat-roofed Laurence Warehouse, with Mayan
ornamentation (1918).
VHL MABISON (SW) to PLATTEVUXE. 71. US151
US151 & US18 travel as 1 route to BODGEVILLE at 41. (see Madison Trip VI).
Then US151 turns (SW) 7*> to LEVI STERLING H. (1828) at 48. 51. MINERAL
POINT, also known as Shake Rag town because at mealtime dishcloths were waved
to call miners home from the mines. Mineral Point survived the depression of 1837,
the CaL Gold Rush, & a cholera epidemic. Alex. Hamilton's son, Wm., was 1 of
its early settlers. After lead came zinc mining & when both declined, town turned
to retailing & shipping. Most bldgs are more than 100 yrs. old. Among these are
Trinity Ch. & Parish H.; Meth. Ch.; a row of Cornish Hs. on Shake Rag St.; best
known is Pendarvis H. (now antique shop); also Polperro H. Cornish pasties are
still served here upon request At Pine & Davis Sts., Giradry H. (colonnaded porch
& cupola). Although Jos. Gundry was a Cornishman, his mansion & estate recall
Southern architecture. Here is housed the Mineral Point Hist Soc. & Mns. Very fine
mineral coll., old costumes & hist relics. Commerce St, Walker Hotel (1836). Opp.
here one of the few Wis. hangings took place in 1842. Wis. was 2nd st to abofish
capital punishment (1851). First Odd Fellows' Hall (O) was converted into mus.;
1 block (E) of Front St, Coferen H. At 64. is BELMONT, on a ridge. Here is J.
with gravel Rd.
SIDE TRIP: To the (R) 3m is Ilrst Capitol Bldg. (1836); now a St Pk.; 1st terr. legislature
met here until capitol at Madison was erected.
71. PLATTEVILLE, surrounded by marginal mines. Here at 20 Elm St. is Wis.
Institute of Technology, At 722 W. Pine St., oldest Wis. St. Teachers College. On
3rd St, 1 block (S), Major John H. Rountree H. (Georg.with Gr.pediment).
US 2 MINNESOTA 585
US 2 MINNESOTA
MINN.-WIS. LINE (at Duiuth, Minn.) (W) to MINN.-N.D. LINE (at Grand Forks,
N.D.). 268. US2
Via: Grand Rapids, Bemidji, Crookston, E. Grand Forks. RRs.: Gt. Northern RR.;
N.P. RR. bet. Crookston & Grand Forks. Good Rds.: Bituminous & Paved. Accoms.:
In larger towns.
US2 crosses through Duiuth & Upper Minn., through the Arrowhead country &
Chippewa Nat. For., into Paul Bunyan land to the Minn.-N.D. Line.
Sec. 1: BULUTH to BEMIDJI. 155.
0. DULUTH, nestles high above L. Superior (600-800'). A beautiful 29-mile drive
runs along outer edge of the bluffs. Its streets are often steep & winding & the air
has the tang of the North country, which makes Duluthians buoyant & expansive
in their undertakings. The harbor, a perfect landlocked basin bet. Minn. Pt& Wis.
Pt., admits the largest Gt. Ls. ships. City is considered one of the best Hay Fever
refuges of the country.
In 1630 Fond du Lac, now a part of Duiuth, was an O jib way village. Except for
visit of Sieur du Luth, who tried to make peace bet. the Ojibway & the Sioux in 1679,
it was known only for fur trading until 18th cent In 1826, Lewis Cass, Terr. Gov.
of Mich., negotiated treaty of Fond du Lac, & 6 yrs. later Schoolcraft passed
through on his way to discovering the real source of the Miss. R. Permanent settle-
ment began in 1852 with Geo. P. Stuntz, who was wildly excited about the pos-
sibilities in this wilderness. Next 3 yrs. were boom yrs. because of the rumor of
immense copper deposits along the N. shore & iron ore at L. Vermillion. In 1854
the Inds., by treaty, relinquished their rights to the mineral tracts & the boom went
on until the national panic of 1857, which reduced the as yet unnamed but pros-
perous town to grass roots. On its heels followed the scarlet fever epidemic of 1859,
leaving only 2 occupied houses in 1865. New reports of goldbearing quartz brought
on a stampede for the bonanza, made even more alluring when financier Jay
Cooke decided to make Duiuth terminus of the Superior-Miss. RR. But after
Cooke's failure in 1873, the city was again reduced to a village & for 10 yrs. not
a new bldg. was erected on the shore of the L. Lumbering, wheat & development of
RRs., elevators, docks & sawmills finally put the city back on its feet & gave it an-
other boom.
Most important to Duiuth are its harbor & docks. The Duluth-Superior Harbor
ranks 2nd to N.Y. in yearly tonnage. There are 46 wharves handling freight other
than ore, coal & grain, 21 coal docks, 7 iron ore docks, & 23 grain elevators. During
World War n the Duluth-Superior shipyards landed 355 vessels incl. every type of
craft. More than 60% of the ore produced in U.S. & 25% of world production de-
rives from N. Minn. & is shipped through its port The labor pop., of Scandinavian
& Canadian descent, is very efficient Duiuth is a popular summer resort because
of its invigorating climate, scenic^ beauty & unsurpassed fishing & hunting. It is
hqs. for U.S. Forest Service, administering area of 3,727,540 as. There are sight-
seeing boat trips on L. Superior & St. Louis R. & through the harbor. Deep sea
fishing boats & scheduled Gt. Ls. cruises are operated by the Georgian Bay &
Northern Navigation lines.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) At foot of Lake Ave., Aerial Lift Bridge, connecting mainland
with Minn. Pt (1930). It is an elec. operated elevator bridge with an overall span
of 510'. Huge freighters & passenger boats can pass through. Its lift is one of world's
fastest (2) 1st St. bet 4th & 6th Aves., Civic Center, consisting of Cth., City Hall &
Federal Bldg. (completed 1930.neo-class.). (3) 5th Ave.W & 1st St., Soldiers &
Sailors Mon. (Cass Gilbert). (4) 7th Ave.W. & Superior St., Incline Railway (1891)
making a 3,000' ascent; excellent view from summit. (5) 932 E. 3rd St, St Paul's
Erang. & Reformed Ch. (belfry O.wks.exc.Satl 0-1 2. 187 2). Contains 900-tb. bell
cast from cannon used in Franco-Prussian War & presented to the Ch. by Kaiser
Wilhelm I of Germany. (6) 6 S. 12th Ave. E., Little Theater, est 1914. one of 1st in
U.S. (7) 1330 London Rd., Duiuth Curling & Skating Club Bldg. (O.fee) among the
best-equipped curling clubs in U.S. with the greatest number of indoor rinks. (8)
6008 London Rd., U S. Fish Hatchery, (O.8-5) largest in State. (9) 3rd St & 33rd
Ave., Iron Ore Docks (O.appL). (10) 1434 88th Ave. W., American Steel & Wire
5S6 US 2 MINNESOTA
Co. plant (O.appL). (11) 1218 104th Ave.W., St George Serbian Orthodox Ch.
(1923.Byzantine). Liturgy in old Slavonic. (12) In Spirit L. is Spirit I. Here battle bet.
Chippewa & Sioux is supposed to have been fought before arrival of white men.
(13) Wrenshal St. in Chambers Grove., at St Louis R., reproduction of a typical
Astor Trading Post (0). (14) Diilnth Harbor*
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On Minn. Point, reached by means of Aerial Lift Bridge (S) on Lake
Ave- are following; (1) 10th & Minn. Ave., Deletfa Boat Club, once private club (early
18th cent.ItalRococo), now pub. clubh. & dock. (2) 1225 Lake Ave. S., UJSL Coast Guard
Sta. & Watch Tower (O). (3) 12th & Minn. Ave., U.S. Naval Base (training ship O.while in
harbor). (4) 43rd St. & Minn. Ave., Summer Playground (200 as.swim.beach). (5) On tip
of Minn. Pt, First Ligfath. at head of the Ls. Only ruins remain, but site is still used as
"Zero" for marine surveys.
(B) Skyline Pkwy. begins at NE. sec. of town in Amity Pk. & passes Chester Pk. At 7th
Ave. W. XLS. Weather Bnreao Sta. (O.exc.Sat& Sun). 910 W. 3rd St., Barling Observatory
(CXappL), 13th-24th Sts., Enger Pk., incl. Enger Peak with 40' octagonal tower (O). 65th
& 68th Sts., Oneota Cemetery. Here are buried the Merritt Bros., known as the "Seven
Iron Men" and discoverers of the Mesabi iron range, Geo. R. Stuntz, explorer, surveyor &
discoverer of the Vermillion range, & many other pioneers of the Arrow Head country.
Cont. on Skyline Pkwy. beyond J. with US61. At c.2m beyond this J. is Soively Pfc. (R). At
3.5m Bardoa's Peak. 4m Maguey Pk^ uncommonly beautiful balsam & pines, although
linden & maple predominate. In Spring, the blood-root is especially fine, & in fall maples
color magnificently. At 6m Ely's Peak, one of highest pts. in reg. At 7.5m Mission Cr. Pfcwy.
branches off (L). At 8.5m J a y Cooke St. Pk. (8,176 as.pic.camp.f.). At 9.5m Lookout Point,
500' above river (excellent view.Tourist Camp site near). At 14.5m Thomson, & (L) Thom-
son Dam. At 16m Carlton & J. with US61 (see).
US2 leaves Duliith in a northwesterly direction & travels for 14. to J. with St.94.
At 22. It enters FOND DU LAC IND. RESERV., home of 1,417 Chippewa (see
US61); at 28. it crosses ST. LOUIS R, At 76. Miss. R. passes near hy. GRAND
RAPIDS is reached at 8L surrounded by 4 Ls. & more than 100 resorts. Here is J.
with US169 & St.38.
SIDE TRIP: On St.38 (R) 40m to Big Fork. At 6m (SE) is Scenic St Pk. (2,121 as.) most
primitive of all Minn. St. Pks. Large stands of Norway pine on Chase Pt. (camp.facils.).
At 86. COHASSET. DEER RIVER at 99. At 101. is J. with St.46.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 16.5m to Cut Foot Sioux L. & Turtle & Snake Ind. Mound.
Name of lake derives from the wounded Sioux warrior who was found by squaws of the
victorious Chippewa the morning after a big battle.
US2 now enters CEHPPEWA NAT. FOR. (1,312,824 as.)- For. is divided into 7
districts. There are 600 miles of forest trls. & 23 camps. Its stands of Norway &
White Pine are magnificent. In spring, blossoming plum & cherry trees, as well as
trailing arbutus make a trip through it unforgettable. More than 5,500 as. are re-
forested each yr.; fish ^wild life are protected. Its thousands of Ls. vary in size
from a few acres to 20 m in length. Larger Ls. incl. Leech, Winnebigoshish, Cass, &
Bowstring. Resettlement of land-owning farmers from isolated spots & from places
where soil has been proved unfit for agric. to fertile land in a forest-farm com-
munity benefits both farmer & county. At 113. BENA, touching L. Winnebigoshish
(Ind., miserable, wretched, dirty waterX A few* miles (S) is Leech L., site of last
Ind. uprising in Minn. A Federal Dam is built here designed to control the flow of
water on the lower Miss. At Bena, a Pow-Wow is held each July. 121* SCBQLEY,
named for Rear Adm. Winfield Scott Schley of Sp- American War fame. At 132. (L)
PUB. CAMP (free). CASS LAKE 136. (sea-plane base). Here J. with US371 leading
(R) 15 to Leech L.; 20 m to WaOcer (see US71). 155. BEMEDJI, J. with US71
(see). In 1895 tamaracks still grew in the streets but within 20 yrs. the surrounding
fors. were almost denuded. There were more than a dozen sawmills in the neigh-
borhood that among them cut a million feet daily.
Sec. 2: BEMTOJI to N.D. ONE. 113.
At 7. J. with St89.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) 27m to Agency of Red I* 3mL Reserv. Upper & Lower Red
Ls. on which an Ind. village borders, are very shallow, though 30m in dfom (274 944 as )
largest fresh-wate/ body within a state. At 33m is Redby. Here is Co-op. Fishery & a com-
munity-owned mill ran by Chippewa, Gravel Rd. runs along shores of the 2 Ls. to 2 Ind.
Villages at 25m & 3Qm from Redby.
25. BAGLEY & J. with St92 leading (S) to WMte Earth IndL Reserv. (see US10).
US 10 MINNESOTA 587
42. FOSSTON. Tourist Pk. at SE. end of town. Hy. passes along edge of Fish &
Game Refuge & reaches E&SKINE 60., at S. end of L. Badger, important shipping
point for vie. At 74. J. with St.32 running (R) to Red L. Falls, 9 m . Pop. is predomi-
nantly French, descendants of early trappers. US2 now runs along beach of ancient
L. Agassiz. Colorful underbrush all the way. 86. CROOKSTON, sett. 1872, is
thriving trade center for the valley. Northwest School & Experiment Sia. is here;
also ML St Benedict (Cath.) school for girls. 88. J. with US75 (see). 97. FISHER,
formerly called Fisher's Landing, at headwaters of Red R. After RR. was rebuilt
through Warren to Winnepeg, village declined. In surrounding country are large
sugar-beet fields of the American Crystal Sugar Co. These fields are worked by
seasonal Mex. workers & their families, imported from Mexico to do the tedious
weeding, for low wages. At 112. EAST GRAND FORKS, once a trading post, now
mainly center for the sugar-beet factory operating only in fall of yr. At 113., US2
crosses Red R. into S J).
US 10 MINNESOTA
MINN.-WIS. LINE (19 m from Ellsworth, Wis.) (NW) to N.D. LINE (at Fargo, N.D.)
276. US10
Via: St. Paul, St. Cloud, Little Falls, Staples, Detroit Ls., Moorhead. Served by Mil-
waukee RR., Chi,, Burlington & Quincy RR., GtN. RR. & N.P. RR. Good Rd. Accoms.:
AH types.
US 10 runs NW. from St. Paul through dairy & agric. reg. & through the Lake &
Northwoods Country. From here it traverses Red R. Valley & potato & wheat fields
to cross the Red R., W. boundary of Minn.
0. Hy. crosses ST. CROEX It (toll bridge) at Prescott, Wis. At J. of Miss. & St
Croix Rs. is POINT DOUGLAS. At 3. is J. with US61 which unites with US10, &
enters ST. PAUL (see) at 20. which is also at J. with US12. Hy. at 33.5. reaches J.
with US8 in a reg. of burning peat bogs. At 45, ANOKA. One block (N) from
Champlin-Anoka Bridge, Woodbury H. (1854.N.Eng. & Gr.Rev.). All early gov-
ernors entertained in this house & during Sioux uprising (1862) more than 20 people
took refuge here. A stone near mouth of Rum R. bears inscription of Fr. Louis
Hennepin (1680), believed to have been carved by the missionary himself. Rum R.
is one of Minn.'s most famous streams. From Anoka to East St. Cloud US52 joins
with US10. At 50. DAYTON STATION, Ind. trading post (1852). Crow R. flows
into the Miss, near here. At c,54. OLIVER KELLEY EL (1896), home of founder &
first Secy, of the Grange of Patrons of Husbandry, It is known as the Shrine of the
Grangers, through whose annual picnics on the grounds the memory of KeUey is
kept alive. 57. ELK MVER, named for herds of elk found here by Zebulon Pike.
67. BIG LAKE & 82. CLEAR LAKE, towns that grew up with the coining of the
RR. 94. EAST ST. CLOUD in reg. of famous granite quarries. US10 parallels E.
bank of Miss. R. At E. St. Germain Street US52 branches (L) crossing river to St
Cloud proper.
95. ST. CLOUD, a clean, thriving, industrial community which spreads out along W.
side of Miss. R. Quarries lie beyond city's limits. Flanking the wide city streets are
homes of Col. architecture, a style brought in by its early settlers. In the 1840*s it was a
fur trading post. Its fortunate geographical position on the Miss, kept it the leading
outfitting post for the trade. It remained that until the RRs. took the steamboats*
place, 1874. Then came the era of stone quarries. From a very small beginning in
1868, St. Cloud became one of leading building-stone & monument-producing
centers of country. The stone of the reg. is fine-grained & ranges in color from black
through red & pink to white. It is especially suitable for pub. bldgs., churches,
bridges & memorials. Many structures in Washington, Philadelphia, Chicago &
Detroit are built of it. PTS. OF INT.: (1) In Riverside Pk. is Pine Log Cabin, built
1855, used as a home, hotel, fort & jail. (2) Along the river, St Cloud St Teachers?
College, founded 1869, 3rd largest Teachers' College in state. (3) 9th Ave.S. & 1st
St., St Mary's Church (Cath.Romanes.). Parish founded by Benedictines in 1856.
Shortly after, they began a seminary, orphanage & a hospital. Latter is conducted
by Benedictine Sisters. (4) St. Germain Street & Cooper Ave., a Monument Factory
(O.appL). (5) 4th Ave. & 3rd StS., St Cloud Ch, (Presb.), founded 1856. (6) NE.
part of city, Wilson Pk. (33 as. tourist camp).
588 US 10 MINNESOTA
SIDE TRIP: On US52 (NW) Is St. Benedict's Convent & College for Girls. Here also are
hospital, 2 Ind. Schools & home for aged; latter has a very fine ItaL marble chapel (Ren.).
At llm just off hy. (L) is St. John's Univ. with exceptionally fine bldgs. College is especially
known for its courses in architecture & Beuronese Art (founded in the Abbey School of
Art, Beuron, Germany).
Main route cont. (N) on US 10. At 97. SAUK RAPIDS, once terminal of rail &
ox-cart traffic, now a flour-milling town. Foundation of an Old Sawmill is all that
remains of the early boom days. 103. SARTEIX. On banks of river is a paper mill
manufacturing high-grade paper & operated by hydro-electricity. 129. LITTLE
FALLS. The rapids for which town is named were called "Painted Rocks" by early
Fr. traders. In 1805, Zebulon Pike explored reg. Dam is built where river descends
11' in l A m . During flood of 1853 river carried steamboat "North Star" over the
falls. On W. bank of river is Lindbergh St. Pk. (100 as.) surrounding home of Chas.
A. Lindbergh (rest 193 5). Lindbergh lived here until he was graduated from high
school. His father, Chas. A. Lindbergh Sr., practiced law here & served as Pro-
gressive Republican in U.S. House of Rep. (1907-1917). He was known for his
consistent denunciation of war propaganda & profiteering. A city-owned tourist camp
is at N. city entrance on US371. At 140. RANDALL. Here is J. with SL115.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 10m to Camp Ripley Junction. (W) of village is Site of Ft
Ripley, est.1849 as buffer against Inds. Used as shelter for 1862 uprising. Site is incl. in
Camp Ripley, now Nat. Guard Camp (20,000 as.concerts.parade & guard mount). The
Reserv. has 100 bldgs. (most Rds.O.exc-during maneuvers).
145. CUSfflNG, named for Caleb Gushing, Congressman & diplomat 151. LIN-
COLN. There are 4 Ls. (R) with numerous islands & wooded shores. Fish & water-
fowl abound At 160. is J. with US210 which leads (R) 22^ to Brainerd (see US61).
178. VERN3DALE. 185. WADENA^, These two towns fought bitterly over right to
be cty. seat, as did so many other pioneer towns. They even hired "residents" until
after the election. At 190.5. US10 crosses Leaf R. 198. NEW YORK MILLS,
Finnish community retaining many of the old customs such as the use of the
"sauna" (bathfa.). To create steam water is thrown on heated rocks. Bathers loll
in the steamy room & later beat their bodies with twigs to induce perspiration. Then
they dash themselves with cold water & enjoy the invigorating effect At 209.
PERHAM, entrance to vacation playground area. Otter Tail Cty. contains 1,000
of Minn.'s 10,000 Ls. Here is J. with St78.
SIDE TRIP: On St.78 (L) 9m is Otter Tail L. (llm long) one of large Ls. of the reg.
Along its shore, Red R. carts creaked on the Pembina-St Paul cart route.
221. FRAZEE, summer resort (h.i). 231. DETROIT LAKES, capital of Minn.'s
Park Region. Within a radius of 25 m are 412 Ls. Town has summer & winter car-
nivals incl. logrolling & fly casting, as well as wood-chopping & sawing contests, &
a dog derby. Here is J. with US59.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On US59 (N) 21m to Ogema & J. with Side Rd. leading (R) 6m to White
Earth Ind. Reserv. Hqs. (1,200 sq. miles). More than 9,300 Chippewa live on this reserv.,
once a magnificent pine forest, now largely cut-over land. Inds. sold many of their holdings
because they needed money. Ind. Agency is now buying back some land there-by adding
fertile ground to help Inds. make a living. This rehabilitation began 10 yrs. ago. Near-by,
St Benedict's Mission (Cath.) est by Bishop Ireland (1868) is one of finest in Ind. Service.
In adj. cemetery, Chief White Cloud is buried. The handiwork of the Chippewa is excellent
especially their buckskin products & birchbark canoes. Inds. hold an annual festival (O)
in the village, comm. arrival of 1st group. Int. because at these pow-wows a sham battle,
in formal costumes, bet. Chippewa & Sioux is staged. ua. U v,
( ? } ? r i I ^? etroit *4 kes .( s ) V S59 P* 8 ? 68 a group of 28 *** Mounds. Near 21.5m was
238. AUDUBQN, named for the great ornithologist; at 244. LAKE PARK & J
here with Cty. Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On Cty Rd. (L) to Big Cormorant L. 10.5m. Here are 3 large Anchor Stones,
nfiTt ? t i?^ }.! Wlde - & is believed that they were used by Norse explorers,
f ** * 5 ? e *?P r s kins. These & the Kensington Runestone (see US71 Alexandria) are
attributed to the same early Norsemen.
?JSi Jn? fl (S ^ off , US1 ^ Bn ? Mo R - st Pk - (242 as.swim.pic.). River bottom is
covered with elm, basswood, oak & poplar. Here was pre-historic Campbell Beach
US 12 ANB US 14 MINNESOTA 589
of L. Agassiz. 266. GLYNDON. US10 here crosses S. branch of Buffalo R. At
275. is MOORHEAD, on Red R., distributing center for rich agric. Red R. Valley.
It has a million dollar creamery & many large wholesale grocer & fruit houses.
Moorhead is seat of Concordia College (Luth.) & State Teachers' College. Here is
J. with US52 & US75. At 276., US210 crosses Red R. into Fargo, NJX
US 12 MINNESOTA
MINN.-WIS. LINE (at Hudson, Wis.) (W) to WIS.-SJX LINE. 196. US12
Via: St. Paul-Minneapolis, Delano, Litchfield, Wilmar, Benson, Ortonville.
US 12 in Minn, passes from the St. Croix R. through the Twin Cities & a picturesque lake
& farming country to S.D. Line at Big Stone Lake. For Twin City area see St. Paul-Minne-
apolis. For Wilmar area see US71. For Ortonville area see US75.
US 14 MINNESOTA
MINN.-WIS. LINE (at La Crosse, Wis.) (W) to S.B. LINE (3 from Elkton, S.D.)
289.US14
Via: La Crescent, Winona, Rochester, Owatonna, Mankato, New Ulm, Tracy, L. Ben-
ton. Chi. & N. Eastern RR. parallels route. Accoms.: In cities & tourist camps en route.
US 14 crosses the state (E-W), beginning at Miss. R., & passes through beautiful
lakeland reg. to the fertile farm areas of SW. Minn.
Bridge from La Crosse, Wis. crosses Miss. R. to La CRESCENT 2. (see US61). A
species of apple imported from Russia thrives in orchards here. Reg. grows 50
different kinds of apples & 30 of plums. In La Crescent is J. with US16. Traveling
(N) along river, US14 & US61 unite to WINONA at 26. (see US61), home of St
Teachers College, St. Mary's & St Theresa (Cath.) Colleges. It is hqs. for Upper
Miss. Wildlife & Fish Refuge, incl. an area of 99,972 as. along Miss. R. Above
Winona is U.S. Dam & Lock #5A. On US61 (E) is Liers* Trained Otter Farm
(O.fee.) US14 now passes through a soil-erosion-control reg. to STOCKTON at 35.
At 42., just off hy. is LEWISTON, first stage-coach stop on Winona-Rochester
Line. Ramer Tavern is relic of those days. At 51.5. J. with St.74.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 6m to Whitewater St. Pk. (688 as.swim.f.camp.golf). Unusual
escarpments of limestone, & dense growths of mature timber, red cedar & white pine.
52. MUNICIPAL CAMP GROUND (pic.facils.). Annually on County Day, young-
sters trap as many gophers as they can & bring in the tails for prizes. At 75. ROCH-
ESTER (see St. Paul-Minneapolis). 90. Kasson. Here is J. with St.57.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 3^ to Mantorville* Most old bldgs. here, incl. the Ch., Ctfc.,
Brewery, & Hubble H., were built in 1850's & are still standing. Frank B. Kellogg & Rear
Adm. F. E. Beatty spent boyhood here.
96. DODGE CENTER & at 104. CLAREMONT. US14 (W) of here runs in a
straight line through dairy country to OWATONNA, 115. a health resort (mineral
spring). Chief Wadena is said to have moved his entire village here so that Ms sickly
daughter might drink the mineral spring waters, rich in iron & sulphur (Tourist
Camp). County has 16 creamery co-ops. Carnegie Foundation & the Univ. of
Minn, chose Owatonna as the typical American town. On Main St. is National
Farmers* Bank Bldg. (1908.by Louis Sullivan), described by W.W.Norton & Museum
of Modern Art as a bldg. of exceptional beauty principally because of its color
scheme, both exter. & inter. Here is J. with US65. On S. Grove St., Pillsbury Military
Academy (see US14).
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) 15m Faribaolt, where Alex. Faribault in 1826 had a trading
post 25 yrs. before settlers arrived. Faribault H. was first frame bldg. in town; it cost $4,000
& still stands. Near it stood, until recent yrs., Episc. Bishop Whipple's home. It was Bishop
Whipple who defended the Inds. & pleaded for clemency at the time of the mass execution
in 1862 (see US71). His policy toward the Inds. later became that of UJS. Gov., namely to
consider them as wards of the Gov. Much acreage around Faribault is incl. in Fed. soil-
conservation project.
130. WASECA, important wheat-shipping point The Anti-Horse Thief Detective
Society organized here in 1864, was abandoned only a few yrs. ago. Tourist Camp
on W. shore of Clear L., also Boy Scout Camp (O). 156. MANKATO (Sioux for Blue
Earth). Here 400 Inds. of the Sioux Uprising in 1862. were tried & 300 were held
Sm US 16MINNESOTA
at Mankato, to await Lincoln's verdict. He commuted sentences of all but 38. On
Dec. 26, all 38 were hanged simultaneously. It was the largest legal mass execution
in U.S. Mankato now is leading industrial & agric. center in SW. Minn. & parts of
Iowa & S.D. It has a large hog market & produces brick, cement, flour & foods. On
5. 5th St., Mankato St Teachers College, founded 1868. Bethany Loth. College is
in CS) part of town. Mankato is at J. of US169. At 182. hy. passes Old Redstone, a
2 sq.-mile hill of pink quartzite & at 185. is NEW ULM, sett 1 854, by Germans from
Wiirtemburg, who named the new home after cathedral city Ulm. New Ulm in 1862
was site of an important Sioux uprising. By using zigzag & unfamiliar tactics they
so surprised our soldiers that many lives were lost. The city was evacuated &
refugees fled to Mankato. Town is known for its interest in music which was kept
alive by German Turnvereine. At 25 N. Broadway, New Ulm Lib. & Hist Mus.
Along a hillside path to Loretto Hospital on N. 5th St. a Way of the Cross is kept
up by the large Cath. pop. Here is J. with St. 15 leading (L) to Flandreau St Pk. 2
(837 as.swim.pic.facils.boat) in the Valley of the Cottonwood R. 199. SLEEPY
EYE, named for friendly Ind. Chief. Near-by is Sleepy Eye L St Pk. (40 as. wayside
pic). Here is J. with St4.
SIDE TRIP: From here (N) IQm to Ft Rldgely St Pk. (225 as.camp.pic.golf). Around this
fort occurred some of the fiercest Sioux battles in 1862. Our soldiers held the fort against
wild attacks, protecting 300 non-combatants & the settlements along the line.
221, SPRINGFIELD. Sauerkraut festival held each Sept. (eating contest & dancing).
Here is J. with US71 (see), at 228. LAMBERTON with KtAar Pk. (23 as.pic.bath.
beach & baseball). 245. TRACY. At 252. BALATON, named for a L. in Hungary
(Tourist Camp). Here is J. with US59 leading (S) 4 m to L. Siietek & other Ls. At
256. J. with St.91 which leads 8 m (R) to Caraden St Pk. (470 as.camp.hiking.swim).
266. TYLER, founded 1870, by followers of Nikolai Frederik Severin Grundtvig,
Danish theologian & poet, whose principal wish was to make an education available
to the masses. Danebod Folk School (1888) is a typical folk high school founded
by the Grundtvigeans. Tyler has co-op, creamery, buttery & stock produce plant At
279. L, BENTON on one of glacial Ls. now almost completely dry. Town & L. were
named for Thos. Benton (see US75). Here is J. with US75. At 289, US14 crosses
SJXLINE.
US 16 MINNESOTA
MINN.-WK* LINE (at La Crosse, Wis.) (W) to SJX LINE (15 from Sioux Falls,
S.D.). 286. US16
Via; Preston, Austin, Albert Lea, Blue Earth ? Fairmont, Wortnington, Luverne. Served
by Milwaukee RR. & Chi., St P., Minneapolis & Omaha RR. Usual accoms.
US 1 6, southernmost through-hy. in Minn, crosses MISS. R. at La Crosse, Wis. over
a free bridge. Water Ifllies & water-hyacinths separate the islands in the river. Hy.
cont past many small waterways & a few Ls. through a rolling prairie & farm
country.
2. La CRESCENT (see US61). 3. J. with St26.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. 7m (L) Brownsville on Miss. R., known as Old Steamboat Land*
lag (1840). Trappers used to mount a stuffed wildcat on a pole to identify their landing.
6, HOKAH, dairying village, once site of 20 flour mills.
SIDE TRIP: From Hokah (L) on St.44 to Caledonia, 13m, a Mormon Colony led by one
of ffle Youngs who camped here for a while. Here the dandelion was introduced from Eng.
by Jacob Webster, who hungered for greens. Minnesotans still blame him for the abundance
of the beautiful weed flower on their lawns.
Hy. crosses through stoneless territory in which wild flowers thrive. Masses of them
cover the countryside. At 21, HOUSTON, once a steamboat landing of Root R.,
still has most of its early houses, many with ivy planted 60 yrs. ago. At 30. Rd.
Sf ^ 5? l Va u ey ' & at 32 ' is BU5HFOKD, where Root R. & Rush Cr. meet.
ST? Srw ^l: passes v at 47 - 5 - is BUFFALO BILL'S PEAK. Near it one of
Bills Wild West Shows rehearsed. At 49. in a charming valley is LANESBORO.
5 anatUIlst ' H y slef ' carried on M S ornithological work. At 51.
? bftsa s 5S55ar:
(1863) is still in use. Here J. with US52 leading (N)
US 61 MINNESOTA 591
35^ to Rochester (see StP. & Mnpls. Trip IV.). 74. SPRING VALLEY. J. with
US63 leading (S) 13 m to Iowa Line. Large Fed. Soil Conserv. Project in the reg.
(Guides avail, at Project Office.) At 105. AUSTIN, home of Hormel Packing &
Food Products plant. The "Milwaukee Road's" roundhouse & shops are also here.
Beginning at head of Main St. is Horace Aestin St Pk. (50 as.boat.bath.). Before
1841, U.S. soldiers had camped here, incl. a Ft. Snelling officer & Dred Scott, then
a slave. American Fur Co. had a hunting shack here. One winter, their party shot
2,000 deer, 50 bear & some buffalo. Here is J. with US218. 119. HAYWARD,
with large co-op creamery, branch of the Land O'Lakes chain. At 125. ALBERT
LEA, named for Col. A. Lea, who surveyed reg. 1 835. Today it is an industrial center
with 4 RRs. Its dairy & oil co-ops do a million dollar business. Horse racing was &
still is popular sport of the town. Its Main St. was once part of its race course.
Sheriif Heath was once (c.1859) teased into running Old Tom, his shay horse for 13
yrs., against fleetest gelding of the surrounding country. Finally he did. To every-
one's surprise, Old Tom won & for many yrs. was victor over such favorites as
Crazy Frank, Sleepy Kate & even Itasca Fly ("fastest horse in the NW"). On Albert
Lea L. is a State Game Refuge. At 137. ALDEN, est.1869. Had one of earliest
Grange organizations in the state (1873). 163. BLUE EARTH, so named for the
blue-green clay found on rocks of the river gorge by Inds. The municipally-owned
light company uses a good part of its profit for lighting the streets with gay colored
bulbs, making int. designs. One of largest pea- & corn-packing plants in U.S. is here;
also an ice-cream factory & creamery co-op. Migratory Mexican workers help to
weed, hoe & top sugar beets of the surrounding farms because wages are too low
for local labor. At Blue Earth is J. with US169 leading (N) 37^ to Mankato (see
US14). 181. FAIRMONT, 4th of a chain of 18 lakes (launch trip through 4 Ls.).
Cfh.* built (1862) on site of Sioux uprising, houses coll. of pioneer relics. In the
1870*s, a 4-yr. locust plague almost ruined the community. A newly arrived colony
of Eng. farmers, most of whom were Oxford & Cambridge grads., through their
persistent efforts saved the community from complete devastation. Later this group,
known as the Fairmont Sportsmen, introduced fox hunting into Minn. (S) of business
sec. is Tourist Camp (free camping). 190. WELCOME, & 196. SHERBURN. At
207. J. with US71. Then US16 & US71 travel as one Rd. for 2 m . Here US16 turns
(R) to JACKSON at 209. where Ind. uprisings twice occurred. Town produces tow
rope in great quantity from the flax of vie. Tourist Camp (cabins.mod.rates). At
240. WORTfflNGTON, with one of largest co-op, creameries in reg. Town has
had highly rated polo players. In City Pk. is Toarist Camp (facils.). Bath.beaches on
L. Okabena. At Worthington is J. with US59. At 271. hy. crosses HOCK R. to enter
Lnverae, visited by Nicollet in 1839. Hostile Inds. & the 4-yr. grasshopper plague
kept settlers away for 30 yrs. Now it has thriving creamery, grain, & livestock co-
ops. At E. end of town, Tourist Camp (facils.). Also J. with US75 (see). At 286.
US16 crosses into S.D.
US 61 MIKNESOTA
MJNN.-WIS. LINE (at La Crescent, Minn.) (N) to CANADIAN BORDER (42m
from Ft. Williams, Ont). 453. US61
Via: Winona, Red Wing, St Paul, Pine City, Duluth. Good Rds. Accoms.: N. of Duluth
only in summer.
Sec. 1: LA CRESCENT to ST. PAUL. 142.
US61 passes from La Crosse, Wis. over Miss. R. to La Crescent & follows it into
St. Paul. From there hy. traverses flat farmlands, & cuts through evergreen fors.
(N) to Duluth. Here beautiful L. Superior Dr. begins, running past rocky pts. &
wooded shores of L. Superior to the Internat Border.
At 0. is LA CRESCENT, a town showing little of its early boom days. Rivalry with
Wisconsin's La Crosse, on the other side of Miss. R., influenced settlers to name it
La Crescent, after the Mohammedan emblem. The vie. lends itself to apple growing
(see US14). From here US61 together with US14 head N. At 23. (L) is LDERS'
TRAINED OTTER FARM (O.fee). At 29. WINONA, once a treeless prairie, now
a beautifully landscaped city, on bluffs of the Miss, from which a panorama of
592 US 61 MINNESOTA
Hiawatha Valley can be seen for 15 m bet. L. Winona & the Miss. R. Winona, unlike
other areas in this vie., was not affected by the Great Glacier. It was founded 1851
by Capt Orren Smith of the steamboat "Nominee" at the same time that Chief
Wabasha's Inds. were urged to withdraw to an island beneath the bluffs. The next
yr. after ratification of the treaty, the Inds. gave up all claim to the reg. By 1855 the
village boomed; by '56 it had 82 industries. Lumbering, saw mills, wheat growing,
flour milling, followed each other in quick succession. Steamboats & the newly
introduced RRs. helped to transport flour & lumber. Later the limestone of the vie.
became recognized by country's leading architects. Brickmaking vied with the stone
quarrying & as each declined, agric. products filled in. Winona is still the 2nd largest
hay & clover seed market in the country. The city claims to be the wealthiest of its
size in the U.S. It publishes newspapers, & magazines in Eng., German & Polish,
evidence of its mixed pop. It is well known for its scenic beauty (Anthony Trollope
described it in glowing colors) & for its educational institutions.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) J. of US61 & St.43 near center of city, Sugar Loaf, a limestone
monolith rising 500'. Can be reached only by foot trl. (2) Bay State Milling Plant
(O.appL). (3) J. R. WatkiBS Medical Plant (O.appl.with a 10-story tower) is the home
of the famous liniment "good for man & beast." (4) Johnson & Sanborn Sts., State
Teachers College, founded the same yr. Minn, became a state, 1858. Its Paul Wat-
kins Art Coll. (O.during school his.) contains 4,000 paintings, etchings, engravings
& sculpture. (5) Wabasha & Gould Sts., College of St Theresa, began in 1893 as
Winona Seminary, conducted by Sisters of St. Francis. It is now an accredited col-
lege & also gives B.S. degree in nursing. (6) 102 E. Third St., Merchants' Bank, good
example of Sullivan & Wrighfs "prairie style" (1910). (7) Rd. from Lake Blvd. to
Garvin Heights St Pk. (17 as.piafacils.) good view of city & Miss. Valley. At
Winona is I. with US 14 (see).
At 34. MINNESOTA CITY, a small village, where Rollingstone Colony was sup-
posed to have been. It was a tragic tale in Minn, history. N.Y.C. group in 1852 had
planned, on paper, a Utopian communal town & enticed city dwellers to share in
this ''well functioning community" which did not exist. Before the news of the dis-
appointment reached N.Y. again, more than 400 persons had landed somewhere
in the uncharted wilderness & because they were unequipped in talent or means for
pioneer life they perished or eked out a sad existence. Some survivors sett, in
Winona; others finally returned to the East. At 35. J. with side Rd. leading (L) 3^
to Roilingstoee, near which are 50 Ind. Mounds, many 100' long. German colonists
who came here 85 yrs. ago still cHng to their native language & customs. At 43.
JOHN LATSCH ST. PIC (350 as.) on limestone bluffs, 450' above Miss. R. Whitman
I>am & Locks are near pk. A broad, panoramic view from one of the bluffs is
reached by foot trl. Here Jonathan Carver came ashore in 1766, 1st white man to
find the strange Ind. turf houses. 62. WABASHA, in heart of Hiawatha Valley,
nestles among bluffs. It was named after 3 successive Sioux Chiefs, who actively
defended their "bountiful valley" against encroachment. The Winneshiek Bottoms,
sloughs & bayous, extending hundreds of miles (S), begin at Wabasha. A toll bridge
across Miss. R. into Wis. is E. of town. 63. READ'S LANDING, important during
Rev. when the father of Augustin Rocque was sent here to persuade Sioux from
aiding Amers. In 1840 it became a trading post & in the 50's it had 17 hotels to
accommodate Miss. R. travelers. At one time it also was one of the greatest wheat-
shipping towns of the country.
76. LAKE CITY, on shore of beautiful L. Pepin, where it is particularly treacher-
ous. Here the "Seawing" was wrecked in 1890 with a loss of 98 lives. Lake City was
at one time a well known clamming port. 83. FRONTENAC (L), named for Fr.
Col. Gov. of Canada. Near-by (R) is St Hubert's Lodge, built by Gen. Israel Gar-
rard in pre-Civil War style, who lived on Ms large estate to hunt, fish & entertain
like a feudal lord, but also produced food for hungry Sioux. Christopher La Farge
& Geo. Heins, architects of St. John the Divine, N.Y.C., visited here in 1883-84 &
later chose the limestone found in vie. for the cathedral. Other famous visitors were
John La Farge, Joseph Jefferson, & Henry Ward Beecher. Villa Mkria, Cath. School,
was est 1856 by Ursuline nuns from St Louis on part of the Garrard estate. On
L. Pepin's shore is Frontenac Inn (c.1871). 88. WACOUTA STA. Here Miss. &
US 61 MINNESOTA 593
Chippewa Rs. rush together to form L. Pepin. Lac Qui Parle & L. St. Croix are the
only other of Minn.'s 10,000 Ls. created in this way. 93. RED WING. (For sec. bet.
Red Wing & St. Paul at 142. see St. Paul-Minneapolis Trip HI.)
Sec. 2: ST. PAUL to DULUHL 157.
US61 foUows Arcade Ave. (N) out of St. Paul (see) past GOOSE & WHITE BEAR
Ls. at 11.5. BALD EAGLE at 14.5. At 24. is J. with US8 (direct Rd. to Minne-
apolis). 25.5. FOREST LAKE, popular summer resort, on L. of same name. From
here to WYOMING at 27.5. US61 & US8 are one route. Hy. passes through tama-
rack, birch & oak fors. to NORTH BRANCH at 42. Here is J. with St.95.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (E) 20m to Taylors Falls on Miss. R., area of special interest to
geologists. Dalles EL (early 1850's), from which Stephen A. Douglas made one of his famous
speeches against Lincoln, is in downtown sec. 54m Rush City. Here wooded sees, change to
fenced fields. Hy. passes over undulating bills of sandy clay.
At 64. PINE CITY. At 73. J. with St.23.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (L) 6m to Brook Pk. with mon. to those who lost their lives In
forest fire of 1894.
76.HINCKLEY, center of terrible for. fire of 1894 in which 400 lives were lost
Jim Root, hero of this disaster, was engineer of N.P. RR. He backed his train
through the flames over the burning creek all the way to Duluth, thereby saving
350 passengers. His hands were burned fast to the throttle when he reached Duluth.
J. here with St.48.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) Mon. to the Fire Victims. At 20m St. Croix Recr. Area (21,000
as.) under Fed. Gov. Rd. leads (S) to Pub. Camp & Girls' Camp. A leisurely downstream
30m canoe trip can be started here down St, Croix R. Canoeist can cont. 40* farther to
Taylor Falls.
86. SANDSTONE. Orig. settlement, est. 1885 to quarry sandstone, was completely
destroyed by 1894 fire. At 91. is J. with St.23.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) to Askov 3m, founded by Danish People's Soc., 1887, a work-
ing co-op, community with a folk-school. Known as the nitabago center of U.S. Town
has never had or needed a jail.
109. MOOSE L. Was an overnight stagecoach stop in 1860. 115. BARNUM, im-
portant egg-raising center of Minn. 134. CARLTON, lying in an ancient glacial R.
bed, surrounded by rich farms. Jay Cook Tourist Camp, near Otter & Crystal Crs.
Here is J. with Skyline Pkwy. from Duluth (see). Also J. with US210.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (W) 22m Cromwell, at SW. end of Fond du Lac St For. (see
below). Tamarack at 34m. Short distance (N) is entrance to Savanna St For. which includes
L. Winnewawa (Tourist CampJree). At 47* McGregor. J. here with. St.65 which passes
(N) through Savanna St. For. 61m Hassman. The hy. turns (SW) to Aitidn at 69m, center
of turkey-raising reg. Every fall Turkey Growers' Assoc. makes a tour to various farms
feasting on turkey dinners & listening to speeches, often by Univ. of Minn, specialists. They
also celebrate, June 24, Swedish Midsummer Festival, a day of food & fun. Hy. now passes
through verdant fields of wildflowers, edible berries & mushrooms. Forty-six varieties of
mushrooms have been found here. Ra. also touches the Cuyuna Iron Range, most recently
developed range in Minn. Ore found here contains manganese, important steel-making
ingredient. US210 reaches Crosby at 84m. Besides mining, the pulp wood industry is im-
portant. Town, like many others with wealthy mines & industries, has excellent schools.
Good fishing is to be had in the 365 Ls. of the vie., especially in Crow Wing St For. (NW).
(1) From Crosby (N) on country Rd. to one of the world's few Sintering Plants at 1.5m
owned by Evergreen Mine Co, (O.guides).
(2) On St.6 (R) from Crosby to Milford Mine 6m._ In 1924 this mine was flooded & 42
men lost their Hves. Harley Harris, hero of this disaster, sounded warning siren before
the water burst into the mine, then tied the rope around his body so that the weight
would keep the siren shrieking. He died in this effort, & for yrs. miners believed they
could still hear the siren & see Harris with the rope tied around him.
87m fronton, also touches the Cuyuna Iron Range. On improved Rd. (R) 4m is Riverton
with ore-drying plant of Pick & Mather Co. (O.), one of largest in country, drying more
than 80 tons an hr. 95,7m Brainerd, Paul Bunyan's Capital. Annually, one wk. in July,
Bunyan holds sway & fun & frolic take hold of everyone. Men of vie. wear beards to add
realism to the occasion. Log-rolling, wood-chopping, & canoe tilting contests are famous.
As many as 80,000 visitors have been attracted. Carnival in Feb. Town was platted, 1871,
when N.P. RR. reached Duluth. Largest shops of this RR. are still here at cor. A & 3rd
Aves. NE. Brainerd was named for the beautiful wife of a N.P. Pres., Ann Elizabeth Brain-
594 IIS 61 MINNESOTA
erd Smith. She received commission of Lt. Col. during the Civil War for her "gallant
hospital service." At present it is a thriving city with especially fine grade & high schools.
The' Normal Dept. of Franklin School pioneered in pre-parental education. At 326 Laurel
St., Crow Wing Cty* Hist Soc. Mas., in Cth., is considered one of most complete in Minn.;
coll. Ind. relics & logging tools.
154.5. CAKLTON & J. with Skyline Pkwy. (see Duluth). First spike of N.P. RR.
was driven here. 138. SCANLON, old lumber town. J. with St.45.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) to Cloqnet 2m, a modern city built on ruins of one which was
completely destroyed by for. fire, 1918. Five large fires merged & c.8,000 sq. miles were
involved, mainly around Duluth. More than 400 lives were lost, but only 5 in Cloquet, due
to quick action of town officials. When city was rebuilt it concentrated on manufacturing
of wood products. Arch St. & A Ave,, Wood Conversion Co. East End Arch St., North-
west Paper Co. Cloquet has a very large co-op, retail association. At l.Sni (W) from Cloquet
is Fond do Lac fad. Eeserv. (25,000 as.; 725 pop.) & Ind. hospital.
US61 crosses St. Louis R. 141. ESKO, small Finnish community with co-op, cream-
ery. Old Finnish customs are still observed, especially the taking of "sauna" or steam
baths. 157. DULUTH (see US2).
Sec. 3: DULUTH to PIGEON It, ONT. 154.
At Duluth are Is. with US2 (see) & US53.
SIDE TRIP: US53 travels (NW) for c.20m then turns directly (N) & at 61m reaches Eveleth,
range town whose importance dates from discovery of iron. Bet. 1900 & 1910 pop. in-
creased from 2,700 to 7,036. Valuable ore was being turned up all through the city & early
pioneers had difficulty in finding an ore-free spot for a cemetery. Open-pit mining is favored
process & visitors can see enormous cavities from which millions of tons of iron ore have
already been taken. Town & vie. have excellent schools, as do most range towns of Minn.
Eveleth is known as "hockey capital of the nation" & has produced Ching John, Frank
Brimsek, & Mike Karakas. At 70m is J. with St. 169 which penetrates (S) part of Superior
Nat For., incl. now 3,728,932 as. & more than 5,001 Ls. ranging in size from a few as. to
70 sq. miles. Its varied flora is fine at every season, but especially in fall when the g9ld &
scarlet foliage of the hardwoods vies with the dark of the evergreens. Fish & wildlife
abound. It is the natural habitat of the moose. For. contains hist. Ind. Villages & many
Painted Rocks, most of whose scripts are still not deciphered. Matchless water hys. make
this excellent canoeinf country (facils.pic.& housekeeping accoms.). More than 170 resorts
in vie. Pts. of scenic int. & special attractions incl.: Cross R., Temperance R.., Poplar R.,
& Cascade R. Falls, all on N. shore of L. Superior; Cariton Peak, near Tofte, Minn., Devils
Cascade (N) of E!y-Buyck Rd. Rebecca, Curtain, Lower Basswood, & Upper Basswood
Falls, all on Internal Boundary. US53 travels (N) past large Pelican L., Cosson, Ray,
Ericlisbiirg to Internal* Falls on the Canadian border at 158* (see US71).
From Duluth US61 begins famous scenic drive (N) along wooded shores of L, Super-
ior to Port Arthur in Canada. At 11. is FRENCH R. Rd. in this vie. in June is lined
with arbutus, sarsaparilla & dogwood. 18, KNIFE R* 28. TWO HARBORS, called
by the Chippewa "Place-to-spear-by-moonlight." It is ore-shipping terminal of the
Duluth, Iron Range RR., which later combined with the Duluth, Mesabi & Northern
RR. City has 3 co-ops., a U.S. Coast Guard Serv., & excellent education facils.
School busses sometimes bring in pupils from 35 m away. 41. CASTLE DANGER
named for the wrecked boat "Castle." At 42.5. hy. enters GOOSEBERRY FALLS
ST. PIL (637 as.good f.camp.& pic,facils.;hay fever refuge). Shore is here covered
with igneous volcanic rock. Gooseberry R. with 2 waterfalls, 300' high, flows
through pk. to L. Superior. At 4& SPLIT ROCK ST. WAYSIDE PSL (35 as pic
facils.). At 49. SPLIT ROCK LIGHTEL (L) perched high on cliff. 54. BEAVER
BAY, only lake settlement bet Duluth & Grand Portage that survived the 1857
panic. At 61. J. with dirt Rd. leading (R) to Palisade Head (pic.80 as.) headland of
volcanic rock. Beautiful view of Aposfle Is. & the Wis. shore. 70. LITTLE MARAIS,
site of old Crystal Bay corundum mine, now resort village. From here for 10 hy
follows tech & aspen lined roads. At 73. hy. crosses CARIBOU R., famous trout
stream, 90. LUTSEN, small resort. 106. Cascade R., within CASCADE ST. PIL
(2,300 asxamp.) 114. GRAND MARAB, picturesque village on a natural harbor;
affic " Amer - Fur Co - had &***& P st here 1834 > but abandoned
pos * office was P ened but had to close 2 yrs, later. Finally in
^ 111 ^^^^ Lumbering & fishing are still main industries.
Coast Gtiard Ste. A Fomfry Office are here. Grand Marais is E. gateway to Superior
Nat For. (see above). The well-known Gcnflint TrL begins here & leads through
US 71 MINNESOTA 595
heart of the Nat. For. to famous chain of Ls. Excellent canoe trips from here on.
Canoeists can begin at L. Superior & paddle to W. border of state. Moose, bear,
deer, porcupine & other wild animals are found in great numbers. Camp, grounds
& pic. spots are maintained by U.S. For. Serv. 134. HOVLAND (resort;2 lakes,good
trout f.). 138. RESERVATION R., northernmost of a series of trout streams. Hy.
swings inward to MINERAL CENTER at 147,
SIDE TRIP: From Mineral Center (R) 5*a on country Rd. to Grand Portage in Grand
Portage Ind. Reserv., central depot of the Northwest Co. By 1792 it was the thriving
"metropolis" of L. Superior, with shops, Fr. fashions, drinking places & police. The swag-
gering voyageurs lived in log bldgs. & Inds., with whom they traded, in wigwams. Canoe
yard itself accommodated 150 canoes. Dashing Frenchmen in their gaudy red & blue capes
& sashes, & Inds. in native attire, must have presented a gay assembly. Grand Portage now
has only a few cabins, one of which has a Hist. MES.
154. ESTTERNAT. BORDER. U.S. & Canadian customs officers have quarters on
opp. sides of Pigeon R., which marks the border. A bridge spans the canyon. The
whole reg. is one of striking beauty. Hy. crosses the PIGEON R. into Canada.
US 71 MINNESOTA
MINN.-IOWA LINE (20 m from MUford, Iowa) (N) to CANADIAN BORDlM
(at Fort Francis, Ont). 432. US71
Via: Jackson, Windom, Redwood Falls, Willmar, Sauk Center, Wadena, Bemidji
US71 crosses W. Central portion of the state (S-N) passing through agric. & dairying
fields of the SW. & Paul Bunyan lake reg. of the NW.
8. JACKSON, twice scene of Ind. uprisings in 1862. One yr. before, the 1st tow milt
was opened here. (Tourist Carnp.facils.) From Jackson hy. crosses over a high
plateau covered with glacial drift that has made soil drought resistant & hence very
fertile. At 31.WINDOM. At 32. is J. with St.60.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On this Rd. 13m (SW) is Heron Lake on L. Heron, settled mainly by
Germans, Irish & a mixture of Slavs & Scandinavians.
(B) On St.60 (NE) 10m to Mountain, a Mennonite Colony, that migrated here from Russia
via Germany. Town has five churches, a hospital, & a home for aged. Many old customs
still exist Borscht & porzelchen are still served at New Year's.
58. SANBORN, on banks of Cottonwood R. (Tourist Camp). Here J. with US14.
At 87. REDWOOD FALLS, noted for granite found in its vie. At NW. end of town
is beginning of Alex. Ramsey St Pk. (185 as.pic.facils.playfields.foot trls.), named
for first territorial Gov. of Minn. Redwood R. lies 140' below. Near here J. with
dirtRd.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 0.5m to Ind. Agency (1,000 as.). Some Mdewakanton Sioux
live here. Beyond 3m are remains of Lower Agency, famous for Ind, uprising of 1862, when
within a few wks. more than 500 whites were killed. Inds., not completely understanding
that they had signed over their land by treaty, continued to roam around where the white
man had begun to settle. They were driven away & resented treatment Added to this, their
food supply was very low because of a bad harvest & fact that Gov. rations had been
delayed by Civil War. A few "blanket" Inds. had been apprehended stealing & before
argument was settled, 3 whites were killed. Fearing retaliation, the rest of the Inds., under
Chief Little Crow, set out on the warpath & massacred all who got in their way. Settlers
fled to Mankato for protection. Finally a punitive force under Gen. Sibley subdued them.
Over 500 captured Inds. were tried; 300 found guilty & condemned to death. Lincoln par-
doned all except those guilty of murder & rape, which left 38. These were hanged on Dec.
26, in the greatest legal mass execution of our Gov. Bishop Whipple, who pleaded for
leniency in behalf of the Inds., was rebuked by Gov. officials & he, as well as Lincoln,
suffered greatly in prestige as a result of his charitable intervention (see US14).
US71 turns (E) crossing MINNESOTA R. & at 93. turns (N) again. Near-by (R) is
Birch Coulee St Mem. Pk. (82 as.pic.trls.), site of hardest-fought battle of the 1862
uprising. At 109. is OLIVIA (Tourist Pk.camp.) & at 135. WILLMAR, sett. 1869 &
named for London RR. agent It is center of farming & dairying reg. Here is J. with
US12.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) US12 leads (W) directly into Benson at 32m. For several yrs. this was
W. terminus of Hill's GtN. RR. Here (c.1838) party of Sioux women & children on hunting
596 US 71 MINNESOTA
expedition with missionary, Gideon Pond from Lac Qui Parle, were attacked & scalped by
Chippewa. Battle of Rum R. a few yrs. later was fought to avenge this deed. (Tourist Camp.)
At 75m Ortonvffie at S.D. border, on shore of Big Stone L., sett. 1872, as Sioux trading
post (see US75).
(B) On US12 (E) hy. reaches Litchfield 25m, from which practically every Rd. leads to a L.
At 149. is GREEN LAKE (popular summer resort). Even early explorers accustomed
to beautiful scenery were struck by its exceptionally vivid green setting & lingered
on for some time. 151. NEW LONDON, built around Old Mill which was begun
before the 1862 uprising & was finished 1865. J. with St.23.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (L) 5m Sifoley St Pk. (379 as.boat.f.swim.pic.camp.). Here are
foot trils. up Mt Tom, used by Inds. as a signal sta. Pk. is part of Mongolia Game Refuge
& has 3 Ls.
181. SAUK CENTER at S. tip of Big Sauk L. (tourist camp.pic.golf.). Sinclair Lewis
spent his boyhood here & used locale for many of his stories. J. with US52.
SIDE TRIP: On US52 (NE) OsaMs, 13m, popular fishing resort & site of fierce Ind. battles.
25m Alexandria. The much discussed Kensington Runestone, found 1898 on Olaf Ohman's
Farm near-by, is supposed to have been placed there by visiting Goths (Swedes) & is dated
1362. Its authenticity was much disputed & is still under discussion. If it is a fake, the faker
had a remarkable knowledge of runic writings. The stone has now been removed to Smith-
sonian Institution, Washington, D.C., for study & exhibit. Alexandria has many rather large
lakes in its immediate vie. From Alexandria (S) on St.29 to Gleawood, 17* on beautiful
L. Minnewaska. Here many Ind. Mcrands & Burial Grounds of Chief White Bear &
Princess Minnewaska.
199. LONG PRAIRIE, was a Gov. Agency, 1848, in charge of a tribe of Winne-
bagos put there to act as buffer bet. Chippewa & Sioux. (Tourist Pk.pic.cabins.)
207. BROWERYILLE. St Joseph's Cfa. (Cath.early Romanes.) in center of town has
2 very fine pieces of sculpture by local artist, Jos. Kieselewski, who later received the
Prix de Rome. 238. WADENA. J. with US10 (see). 252. SEBEKA. 264. PARK
RAPDDS, founded 1880. In vie. are 300 Ls. reached by good Rds. J. with St.34.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On this Rd. (L) 43m to Detroit Lakes (see US10).
(B) On St.34 (R) 28m to Walker on US371 & an inlet of L. Leech (1,2980- On shores of
this large, beautifully wooded, inland L. the last Ind. battle in Minn, took place in 1898.
Maj. Wilkinson & 6 privates were killed. Inds. were subdued but no lives were lost. From
Park Rapids, hy. passes in vie. of a number of excellent fishing Ls.
286, J. with St.92. Here is Itasca St Pk. (31,976 as.f.boatpic.camp.swim.lodge.cabins.
mus.zoo.lookout towers). In L. Itasca (1,475'), incl. in the area, is the source of
Miss. R., objective of Henry Schoolcraft, 1832. It is 2,552* by stream from Gulf
of Mexico. Univ. of Minn, operates a forestry school & biological sta. for summer
students here. US71 turns (R) for 14 m to J. with St.85 at 300. Leech L. is on this Rd.
15 m (R) (see above). At 318. BEMTOJI, on L. Bemidji, named for Chippewa Ind.
Chief, buried in Greenwood Cemetery near-by. At W. edge is Chippewa Nat For.
(see US2). It is the Paul Bunyan Playground, famous for more than 100 summer
resorts. Equally famous for winter sports. In town is a giant statue of Paul Bunyan
& his blue ox. Babe. A canoe Derby is held each July starting in L. Bemidji. From
Bemidji (NE) 6 m is L. Bemidji St Pk. (205 as.pic.camp.shelters), within a splendid
stand of Norway pine. 338. MINES. Luth. Augustana Synod est a colony here.
There are 14 good fishing Ls. in vie. 343. BLACKDUCK, home of thriving creamery
co-op. Here J. with St.72.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (N) past Upper Red L. (see US2) 76m to Spooner, at the Cana-
dian border, town almost completely destroyed in 1910 by the flaring up of an old peat
fire. More than 30 lives were lost
391. BIG FALLS at J. of Big Fork R. (good f .& deer h.). 413. LHTLEFORK, sett.
1905, surrounded by thousands of acres planted in clover for seed, a reliable yearly
crop. At 421. PELLAND. Here is J. with Stll which runs (W) along the CANA-
DIAN BORDER to Baudette & joins with US71 (E) for 11* to INTERNAT.
FALLS at 432. on S. shore of Rainy R. which forms the boundary bet. U.S. &
Canada from Lake of the Woods to Rainy L., known as the "Queen of Lakes.*'
Latter is 50** long & from 3^ to 15* wide, containing 14,000 Is. (excellent f. at
Black Bay). Internat. Falls is hqs. of the Border Patrol. The green, gray & blue uni-
forms of the various branches of the Patrol present a pleasant picture.
US 75 MINNESOTA 597
US 75 MINNESOTA
MINN.-IOWA LINE (18* from Luverne, Iowa) (N) to CANADIAN BORDER
(28** from Morris, Man.). 428. US75
Via: Luverne, Pipestone, Ortonville, Breckenridge, Moorhead, Crookston, Noyes, Chi,
Rock I. & P. RR. bet. Iowa Line & Pipestone; Milwaukee RR. bet. Ortonville &
Moorhead; GtN. RR. bet. Breckenridge & Canadian Line. Good Rd. (bituminous or
graveled). Accoms.: In larger towns.
Hy. runs through prosperous fanning country in S., passes quarries dating back to
Inds., & midway passes Ls. Traverse & Big Stone. In N. it runs through fertile Red
R. Valley, bordering Detroit Lakes vacation area.
Sec. 1: IOWA LINE to ORTONVILLE. 139.
11. LUVERNE* creamery & livestock center with a thriving grain co-op. For 30 yrs.,
after it was explored by the scientist J. N. Nicollet, reg. was ravaged by Inds. When
settlers returned again a 4-yr. locust plague invaded vie. At E. end of town is tourist
pk. with camp accoms. At 17. J. with side Rd. leading (R) l m to Mound Springs St.
Pk. (195 as.pic.) with unusual geological rock formations of Sioux quartzite. At 36.
PIPESTONE on W. side of Coteau des Prairies. Many pub. bldgs. are of red quartz-
ite mined in near-by hills. At 37.5. J. with side Rd.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (L) to Pipestone Jnd. Training Sch. & Pipestotte Nat. Mon. (116
as.). Part of the area has outcrop of quartzite ledges. Wmnewissa Falls is formed where a
stream ^crosses outcrops. Several quarry pits are open to secure the red pipestone or catHn*
ite, as it was called, after Geo. Catlin, famous painter of N. Amer. Inds., who sent in 1st
sample to Washington & who published first account of it. Phil. Prescott was here in 1831
but never published his findings. There are many Ind. legends as to orig. of this stone. One
of most common is that red pipestone was formed by blood of warring tribes. The Great
Spirit stopped the strife & ordered Inds. to regard area as a neutral ground &. to use the
red stone only as a symbol of peace. Hence the smoking of the peace pipe made from the
stone. Longfellow in "Song of Hiawatha" immortalized the lore of these quarries. TrL
connects legendary & hist, points of int. incl. Leaping Rock, Ind. Head Rock, & the Tares
Maidens.
56. LAKE BENTON, on S. shore of a glacial L. now almost completely dry, named
for Thps. H. Benton, son-in-law of John C. Fremont, who came here 1838, with
Jos. Nicollet Here is J. with US 14. 71. IVANHOE, highest land in SW. Minn. It
was named for Walter Scott's hero; its streets bear names of leading characters in
the novel. Here is J. with St. 19, which leads (R) to Marshall at 24 on branch of
Redwood R. in rich farming area. 90. CANBY (Ind. "roots of yellow moonseed"),
has well-run livestock co-ops., wool-shipping & creamery assocs. Tourist Pk., (N)
of town (free camp.). At 106. J. with US212.
SIDE TRIPS; (A) On this Rd. (W) 13m is SJ>. Line.
(B) On US212 (E) 23m is Camp Release, St. Mem. Wayside (18 as.;granite mon.51'), 1st
unit in St Pk. System, comm. release of 269 prisoners to Gen. Sibley in 1862. Remnants
of Sibley's entrenchment visible. Here also is site of Sioux village of Red Iron, friendly
chief during the outbreak. Ind. breadroot, a plant with blue spikes & edible tubers used by
early frontiersmen, still grows in reg. At 24m is Montevideo, named for capital of Uruguay.
Here is J. wtih US59. In Smith FlL, at W. edge of town, Tourist Camp (free facils.). Land
is so level here that snow-sailing, similar to ice-sailing, used to be a favorite sport. Some-
times 100 miles a day could be covered. Sail-sleighing, as it is also called, is still enjoyed,
but now only on shorter trips. US212 turns (SE) to Granite Falls at 33m on a granite bluff;
the stones belong to oldest era of geological hist. Town was home of Andrew J, Volstead,
author of **Volstead Act" for Federal prohibition.
At 111. MADISON, founded by Jacob R Jacobson, who led Iowa settlers here.
Town has a thriving creamery co-op., a livestock-shipping assoc., several grain ele-
vators, & greenhouse & nursery with Log Hut (O), a reprod. of owner's boyhood
Norway home : At 139. traveling NE. is ORTONVILLE, at S.D. Line. The town
in 1873 a trading post for the Inds. is known for its granite-quarrying & canning
industry. Big Stone Canning Co. has one of largest corn canneries in the country.
It is originator of whole kernel canning. Every Aug. a Sweet Corn Festival is held,
at which 20,000 persons eat a free corn dinner.
Sec. 2: ORTONVILLE to MOORHEAD. 116.
At 19. TOQUA LS. ST* PK. (40 as.camp.). 19.5. GRACEVTLLE, prosperous farm-
ing & dairying reg. Here is J. with St.28.
59S US 75 MINNESOTA
SIDE TRIPS: (A) On tills Rd. (L) 22m to Sam Brown St. Men* on E. shore of L. Traverse,
named for head of Ind. scout patrol who, during a Sioux uprising, rode 120m one night
warning settlers. Here bet. L. Traverse & Big Stone L. is Brown's Valley, where Brown's
Valley Man was unearthed. His age was estimated at 12,000 yrs.; his jaw exceeds in width
even the Heidelberg man. Buried with him were artifacts which belonged to an early Ind.
race that made flint tools.
(B) On this Rd. (R) 26m to Morris, home of W. Central Agric. College, formerly Cath. Ind.
Mission School, now under Fed. Gov. Near here is Pomme de Terre Reserve (363.5 as.
recr.pic.facils.).
36. WHEATON, well-known for water fowl & pheasant hunting. City tourist camp
(free). J. with St27.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 17m to Herman, model Minn. town. Near it is margin of
prehist glacial L. Agassiz. In 1926 a mastodon tooth lOVfc" long was found in a pit near-by.
At 70. BRECKENRIDGE, trade & shipping center of reg. Here is J. with St.3.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 26 to Fergus Falls on Otter Tail R., named for James Fer-
gus, the Scot, who financed the Whitford exploratory & settling expedition 1857. Town is
on W. side of large, hist. L. reg. Its first Postmaster was a German who couldn't read Eng.
When mail arrived he emptied sack on cabin floor & allowed villagers to pick their own
letters. June 1919 tornado almost destroyed the town. It now has 17 factories, 2 mills &
a power company that furnishes 175 cities with electric power. Fergus Falls has largest
co-op, creamery in NW. with 37 additional co-op, creameries in vie. It is one of largest
poultry shipping pts. in the NW. Its City Hall & Ctfa. is a reprod. of Independence Hall,
Philadelphia. Otter Tail BGst. Soc. Mas. in basement (O) contains pioneer utensils. At
L* Alice summer & winter carnivals are held. At 44m is Battle L., scene of fierce battle
bet. Chippewa & Sioux.
US75 now follows N.D. Line N. for 46^ to MOORHEAD at 116. Here is J. with
US 10 (see) which leads to Detroit Lakes Reg. (see).
Sec. 3: MOORHEAD to CANADIAN BORDER, 173.
15. GEORGETOWN, where 1st steamboat on Red R. was launched, & HENDRUM
at 29. Bet. these towns hy. still follows Pembina Trl. where less than 100 yrs. ago
vast bison herds were hunted by Inds. Beyond town 1.5 m , US75 turns sharply (E) to
ADA at 43., dairy-products & potato-shipping center in large prairie reg. In Ada is
J. with SL31 which leads (E) 28 m to White Earth Ind. Reserv. (9,377 pop.). US75
tunas (N) from Ada & cont in straight line to Crookston at 79. Here is J. with. US2
(see). 11. WARREN, surrounded by land that is so flat that from hy. one can see
alfalfa fields for miles & miles, a view broken only by telephone posts & isolated
silos. With the exception of Snake R. there are no Ls. or streams in vie. Rain water
to feed stock is collected in large pits dug by the farmers. At Warren is J. with St.l.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 29m to Hiief Miyer Falls, formerly a camp of the Dakotas
who were conquered by Chippewa. Name originally meant Secret Earth, then became
Stealing Earth, then Thief Lake & finally Thief R. Old In<L Village Ruins are near J. of
Thief R. & Red L. In vie. large-scale land resettlements have successfully taken place.
At 138. is DONALDSON, where the 65,000-a. "bonanza" farm of the Donaldson
Ryan interests is located. Here is J. with St. 11.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (NE) 82m to Wawoad, only port on Lake of the Woods (Perry
Steamers, summer only; dogsled & plane in winter} to Oak L, American Pt. & the North-
west Angle, northernmost piece of land in U.S. entirely separated from mainland & favor-
ite vacation resort (excellent h.salmon,trout & muskellunge f.). Lake of the Woods is 90m
long & dotted with piney wooded islands.
153. HALLOCK, named for C. W* Hallock, sportsman & founder of "Forest &
Stream" magazine. Hy. through this area follows Pembina Trl. Some scholars be-
lieve that trL was used by the Norse-Gothic party, which as early as 1362 was sup-
posed to have penetrated this territory (see Kensington Runestone). Along this trL
also traveled wooden ox-carts of Norman Kittson, who carried on successful busi-
ness of transporting furs for Amer. Fur. Co. Rd. bet. here & HUMBOLDT at 166.
becomes more undulating. Humboldt is a J. J. Hill town, named by him for German
naturalist, Baron Alex. Humboldt, as tribute to Germans who had invested heavily
in his RR. bonds. Ground in vie. is very fertile & 45 bu. of wheat or 500 bu. of
potatoes can be raised on 1 acre. Here is J. with terminus of US59. 173. NOYES
on the CANADIAN BORDER. Here is UJS. Customs & Immigration Office. Amer.
& Canadian uniformed officials, of which there are a great number, bustling about
transacting their boundary jobs, present a real contrast to the quiet of the north-
woods country just traversed.
ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 599
ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS
ST. PAUL
RRs.: Union Sta., 4th & Sibley Sts. for 6 major RRs. Northwestern, Northern Pacific,
Gt. Northern, Burlington, Milwaukee, & Rock Island & Pacific. Holman Airport, 2=a
from loop, for Northwest & Mid Continent Airlines. Through bus conns.
St. Paul, on a great bend of the Miss. R., was settled by pioneers who lived in near-by
Ft. SnelHng & on the Winnebago Ind. Resery. lying SW. Along the river's winding
shore & high bluffs runs River Blvd. extending from Pelham Blvd. to the military
fort. Elms & maples line most of the streets, many of which still zig-zag through the
hilly town. Some downtown streets have been widened but only reluctantly because
St. Paulites like their irregular & winding hys. They remind them of the paths that
once lead from the river front to the hills beyond & give the city the appearance of
being much older than its twin. The compactness of the business area, through 2 m
of which runs landscaped esplanade of Kellogg Blvd. overlooking Miss. R., makes
St. Paul more like an eastern city than one of the Middle West. When St. Paul was
only a fur-trading post, it had far more business dealing with N.Y. & the eastern
sea-board than did Minneapolis, which at that time was primarily concerned with
lumbering & agric. Railroading & banking were St. Paul's chief interest.
Father Galtier brought religion into the wilderness & gave the city its name by
building a log chapel called St. Paul, 1841. In 1843 the settlement had 12 people*
Six yrs. later when it became the capital of the new territory it had 642. Ideally
situated at the head waters of the Miss., St. Paul received a flood of immigrants 'with
each landing of a side-wheeler. The city itself was incorporated Mar. 4, 1854. Jas.
J. Hill, RR. magnate of Canadian birth, arrived in 1856 & adopted St Paul as "his
city." His dream of making it the capital of the vast Northwest Empire almost be-
came a reality. In 1873 he, with 2 partners, obtained control of St Paul & Pacific
RR. & from then dates his phenomenal RR. transportation saga. Archbishop Ire-
land shared with Hill the faith in the young Northwest & worked tirelessly to estab-
lish the Irish immigrants he had brought into the country. Through his ardent
efforts one of the great Cath. dioceses in the U.S. was built up, incl, the erection
of the magnificent Cathedral of St Paul. The city is still predominantly Cath. &
services are held in English & in at least 6 other foreign languages. There are about
50 other denominational churches in town. St Paul has 7 accredited colleges & a
univ. & is known as an educational center (see Minneapolis). The Univ. of Minn,
School of Agric. is located here & comprises 465 as. & 72 bldgs., offering a Ml
4-yr. course in agric. economics & forestry.
Together with its twin, St Paul is a great cultural metropolis. To the German
element, which makes up the greater part of the city's pop., is due a fondness for
music, evidenced by the enthusiastic support of the Minneapolis Symphony Or-
chestra & the Civic Opera Assoc., along with many choral societies & glee clubs.
The Germans too are responsible for the rapid & highly scientific expansion of
the medical profession; many of the early emigrants were skilled physicians. The
numerous <& good breweries are also a credit to the Germans. The Irish con-
tributed greatly to the political development of the city & the Scandinavians, who
came much later, added stability & hard work toward the building of the metrop-
olis. St Paul is a city of diversified industries & is recognized as a leader in trans-
portation, wholesales & distribution. It is one of the largest rail centers in U.S.
South St. Paul is 3rd among country's livestock centers & 1st as a commercial
dairy cattle market. St. Paul is the gateway to an unequalled vacationland.
Within a 50-mile radius are 583 Ls,; L. Como & L. Phalen are in the heart of the
city. At the Winter Carnival (Feb. lasting 10 days), King Boreas & his Queen
of the Snows reign in a series of torchlight parades & sports festivities, incl.
Nat ski-jumping, ice shows & ice-fishing contests in which more than 2,000
sportsmen compete, until Vulcan routs the forces of winter, the last evening.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 15 W. Kellogg Blvd., City Hal & County Cth. (1932.exceUent
example of Modarchitecture by Ellerbe, St. Paul, & Holabird & Root, Chicago),
has 19 stones & cost $4,000,000. Carvings around entrance are by Lee Lawrie,
pupil of Saint-Gaudens; sculptoring on elevator doors by Albert Stewart; paneling
of the various mun. & cty. offices is done in 28 different kinds of Amer. & im-
ported woods; 4th St Lobby is especially striking with its marble floor & blue
600 ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
Belgian marble piers. The concealed lighting begins about 8' from the floors,
gradually growing dimmer toward the ceiling, where mirrors give impression of
indeterminate height. In the concourse is white onyx Peace Mem. Statue by
Swedish artist, Carl Milles. It harmonizes in color & texture with the walls &
stands 36' high representing an Ind. God of Peace with a group of Inds. crouch-
ing around Ms feet. (2) 5 W. Kellogg Blvd., West Publishing Co. Plant (O) is
world's largest publisher of law books. (3) 145 W. 4th St., Man. Auditorium (1932)
one of largest & best equipped bldgs. of its type, seating in main area, 15,000;
hockey arena, 8,444. (4) 5 W. 5th St., Old Customs BL (1867.mod.Roman.details)
most pretentious of city's early bldgs. (5) 700 Wabasha St., Minn. St Capitol (O.
frequent tours. 1896.by Cass Gilbertltal. High Ren.). All decorative elements were
coordinated by a Board of Design consisting of famous artists & architects, & the
results achieved are a harmony seldom found in public bldgs. Large dome is prac-
tically a copy of St. Peter's in Rome; the arcaded loggias & the Corinthian columns
blend beautifully into the general design (very intinter.). State Office Bidg., 425 Park
Ave. (O) & Minn. Hist Soc. Bidg., 651 Cedar St (O) complete Capitol group. (6)
214 E. 4th St., Union Depot (1920.class.facade with Doric columns) with a block-
long waiting room. All RRs. entering city use this sta. (7) Rose & Arkwright Sts.,
St Michael's Grotto, miniature church 18' x 12' which Gabriel Pizzuti built in
memory of his little daughter. (8) 966 Miss. R. Blvd., Ford Motor Plant (O.I 0-2).
(9) Cherokee Blvd., Cherokee Heights Pk & Lookout (nightview magnificent). Here
Pierre "Pig's Eye" Pan-ant, St Paul's 1st settler, had his cabin & cache of whiskey
which he bootlegged to Inds. The caves along river front are of the proper tempera-
ture & humidity for the ripening of Roquefort cheese. Experiments with this type
of cheese are being conducted by Univ. of Minn. (10) Marshall & Western Aves.,
St Joseph's Academy, oldest Cath. prep, school for girls; founded 1851. (11) 9th &
Franklin Sts., Ch. of the Assumption (1871.by Edw.Riedel of Munich), oldest Cath.
Ch. in St. Paul & 1st ch. in which the German language was used. (12) Mounds Blvd.
bet. Clermont St & Johnson Pky., Ind. Mounds Pk. (77 as.on high bluff), permits a
magnificent view of city & valley. Mounds still contain human bones, mainly of
Sioux chieftains. (13) Phalen Pky. bet Maryland St & N. city limits incL L* Phalen
(excellent bath.beach & recr.facils.). (14) E. Como Blvd., Como Pk. with L. Como,
which in winter becomes one of city's largest outdoor skating rinks. Other attractions
incl. band pavilion, rifle range, conservatory & zoo. Near here is statue of St
Francis of Assisi, patron of animals, by Donald Shepard. (15) Snelling Ave. N., bet
Hewitt & Capital Aves., on the Midway, Hamline Univ n named in honor of Bishop
Leonidas Hamline (Meth.). This fully accredited college is an outgrowth of the
school founded in Red Wing, 1854. (16) Summit Ave. bet N. Cleveland & N.
Cretin Aves., St Thomas College (1885), founded by Archbishop Ireland, then
Rev. John. Its secondary dcpt is St. Thomas Military Academy. (17) Miss. R. Blvd.
bet Summit & Goodrich Aves., St Paul's Seminary (Cath.), endowed by Jas. J Hill
in 1892, is hqs. for Cath. Hist Soc. (18) Randolph St bet S. Cleveland & S. Fairview
Aves., College of St Catherine (fully accredited. 1858), named for St Catherine, the
philosopher of Alexandria, is city's only women's college & is built within what
was formerly Ft. Snelling Reserv. Overlooking landscaped terrace is Chapel of Our
Lady of Victory (1924.by H.A.Sullwold,early Romanes.). Inter., in polychrome tile
has Byzantine features. (19) Snelling Ave. S. bet St Clair St & Grand Ave., Mac-
Alester College (Presb.), outgrowth of Rev. Edw. D. NeilFs early schools received
its present name in 1874. The old 1850 bell which, when first rung, caused great
consternation among Inds., is still hanging in belfry of Ch. (20) Summit Ave at
Lexington, St Luke's Ch. (Romanes.by J.T.Comes.fine proportions); crypt (1919)
has Byzantme inter. Baptistry & triptychs are especially noteworthy. (21) Summit
Ave. & Avon St, House of Hope Ch. (Eng.Goth.by Ralph Adams Cram, & Goodhue
fSnT 1 ' *<*?*><?> 2 f a*** Ave - * * Hill H. (1887) has 32 rooms & cost
$200,000; occupied today by Diocesan Teachers College. (23) Summit Ave. bet
Selby & Dayton Aves, Cathedral of St Paul (Cath. 1 906-1 5.by E.L.Masqueray), has
o!? 1 ^ Ambiance to St. Peter's, Rome. Both exter. & inter, are especially fine.
(24) NW part of town, Farm Campus of Univ. of Minn., 3rd largest in U.S. (465
n*ff"\ ( 2 ^h fr m ^P. Mi- St Fair Grounds. First fair sponsored in
Patch >" made *
ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 01
(26) Take 7th St. (SW) to Mendota on (E) bank of the Miss., known until 1837 as
St. Peter's & key point & meeting place of fur trappers & traders. J. B. Faribault
moved his family to this site in 1822 when an ice jam threatened his cabin. At
confluence of Miss. & Minn. Rs., on Main St., is Sibley Tea H. (O.1854.by H.DuPuis,
Sibley's Secy.). From the hy. (L) is Home of H. H. Sibley, "Father of his State.* 7 (O.
1835.rest.1910), first stone house in Minn. Sibley used it as business hqs. of Amer.
Fur Co., whose representative he was, & as a social gathering place for such dis-
tinguished guests as Fremont, Schoolcraft, Catlin & Nicollet It has 6 rooms & an
outside stairway to office, on 2nd floor, said to have been used by Inds. & trappers
so as not to disturb the household. Adj. the Sibley estate is Faribault H. (1837-rest.
1935), similar in construction to Sibley H.
(27) At confluence of Minn. & Miss. Rs., just SE. of town & reached by W. 7th St.
or Sibley Mem. Hy. is Ft Sneliing (O.appl.), earliest military post in NW. Father
Hennepin in 1680 & Le Sueur in 1700 visited the site & in 1805 Zebulon Pike ac-
quired the tract for U.S. Gov. In 1 822 Col. Josiah Sneliing began construction of
Ft St. Anthony, as it was then called. Three yrs. later it was officially named Ft.
Sneliing to honor Ms accomplishment. The Roend Tower was built in 1822. In this
tower, Dred Scott, then a servant of the medical Attache, was married to a girl
slave. He was in the service of Dr. Emerson at that time. In 1820 Pres. Monroe
appointed Lt Lawrence Taliaferro, as Ind. Agent for this reg. For 17 yrs. this
young Virginian labored with the Inds. hoping to accomplish 2 things: prevention of
the recurring conflicts bet. the tribes & his plan to establish the Inds. as self-
supporting agriculturists. Traders, fur-company representatives & politicans soon,
found out that he could not be bribed, something that annoyed them not a little.
When he left he wrote, "I have the sad consolation of leaving the public service as
poor as when I first entered the only evidence of my integrity." By 1857 the Ft
fell into disuse & all but 2 tracts of land were sold. During Civil War the Ft was
again used for assembling troops. In 1864 Count Zeppelin, then a young military
attache to U.S., tried out Ms lighter-than-air experiments here. His idea was laughed
at, but he was not easily put off. A military tailor sewed a bag for Mm into wMch
he put as much illuminating gas as the old St. Paul Gas Co. would let Mm have &
on a bright night in spring, made a. 30 minute flight, 300' above the tower. For a
few yrs. more, Ft. Sneliing was used to help protect settlers against Ind. uprisings
especially c.1862. Like other frontier forts, its function was not solely military but
extended into many phases of pioneer life. It was then a social & cultural center.
MINNEAPOLIS
RR. Stas.: Gt. Northern Depot, foot of Hennepin & Nicollet Aves., for Burlington,
Northwestern, Omaha, Gt. Northern, Northern Pacific, Gt Western, & Minneapolis &
St Louis; Milwaukee Sta., 3rd Ave. S. & Washington Ave., for Milwaukee RR., Soo
Line, & Rock Is.; Minneapolis, Northfield & Southern RR. Sta., 710 3rd Ave. N. also
for Anoka Line. Bus Sta.: Union Bus Depot, 29 N. 7th St. for Greyhound, Jefferson
Trans. Co., & Twin City Bus Lines; Sioux Ltd. Bus Depot, 706 1st Ave. N., for Sioux
Ltd. Lines, Grey Goose, & Gt Western Stages. Airport: Wold Chamberlain Field for
9 major certified airlines.
Minneapolis, a great metropolis that rose in a phenomenally short time; jwhere
wilderness was a century ago the thriving city now stands. Its first log cabin was
built in 1847 in what was then St Anthony Fafls. In 1854 the village of Minneapolis
was platted & a Post f Office est; 2 yrs. later it became a city. Its big industrial
builders, however, arrived only in the *70's & *80*s. They were Yankees, who in
order to hurry the building process, invited workers from N. Europe to settle here.
The town was born beside the river & near the falls wMch Father Hennepin loved &
named St Anthony & wMch later, because of its beauty, was the main attraction for
settlers. The rivalry bet Minneapolis & its twin, St. Paul, has been one of the more
enduring in Amer. city Mstory. Although coming into existence about the same time
as St Paul, Minneapolis soon outstripped its cultured neighbor in things ordinarily
considered progress. Its beginning was rather slow, but it grew up rapidly with the
influx of Scandinavians who arrived during 2nd half of 19th cent After census of
1890, when Minneapolis boasted a far greater pop. than St, Paul, the latter de-
manded a recount To the surprise of everyone both cities were found guilty of dis-
honest enrolment StPaul added thousands whose addresses were Union Depot, pool
halls, etc., wMle Minneapolis "in the interest of civic pride" added graveyard resi-
dents, copying more than 18,000 names from tombstones. In the Fed. recount,
602 ST. FAUL---MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
however, Minneapolis won by a safe margin. Articulate Minneapolitans demanded
that their city become the state's capital but nothing came of it
Because of water power developed at St. Anthony's Falls & the rich wheat lands
near-by, flour milling was 1st & basic industry of Minneapolis. City became one of
largest flour-milling centers in the world & the largest cash grain market in U.S.
Today it is also an industrial center & hub of important transportation in the
Upper Midwest. It has become the largest distributing center for tractors & agric.
implements in country. Its pk. system comprises 22 Ls. which offer fishing, boating,
canoeing & sailing in summer & iceboating & skating in winter. Its winter carnival
is famous, but outsiders consider the weather too brutal. Duck hunting is the favorite
sport of the twins & the favorite topic of conversation at any time. City is home of
the Univ. of Minn, which is 2nd largest state univ. in U.S. Univ. takes great pride in
its high academic standing. It embraces 22 schools & colleges & the world-famous
Mayo Clinic (see Rochester in St. Paul area). Its main campus is located above the
Miss. R. near St. Anthony Falls, while farm campus is in St. Paul & Extension Div.
in Duluth.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 1001 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis Pub. Lib. (O.wks.9-9;Sun.2-9),
est 1885. Contains notable coll. of Scandinavian literature. (2) Hennepin Ave. &
16th St., Basilica of St. Mary (Cath.1907-26.Ren.by Eugene L.Masqueray). Its
broad nave, ending in semi-circular chapels & its imposing dome on 4 great piers
give it the architectural characteristics of a basilica. It was designated such in 1926
& affiliated with St. Mary Major & St John Lateran in Rome. (3) 816 Wayzata
Blvd., Diinwoody Institute, one of country's largest endowed trade schools. (4)
1710 Lyndale Ave., Walker Art Galleries (O.Tues.-SatlO-5;Sun.l2:30-5;alts.l944.
asymetric in stone & brick); fine jade & ceramics coll. (5) 15th St. & Hennepin Ave.,
St Marks Chu (Episc.1910.by Hewitt & Brown.Goth.int.inter.). Windows over en-
trances are Ren. style by Chas. Connick. (6) 821 Marquette Ave., Foshay Tower (O.
daUyiee), built by Wilbur Foshay, public utilities magnate, who was ruined in the
1929 crash. Bldg. has resemblance to Washington Mon. & is 447' high (32 stories).
Contains an orig. Houdon bust of Washington. (7) 6th & Marquette Aves., Rand
Tower (CU928-29.by Holabird & Root), 27-story bldg. that was awarded Amer.
Jnst of Architects 1 prize, 1930. (8) 224 S. 5th St., Northwestern Bell TeL Bldg.
(1932.by Rhodes Robertson.guides for tours), typical Amer. skyscraper, rises 346'
above pavement (9) 4th St. bet. 3rd & 4th Aves., City Hall & Hennepin County
Ctb (Romanes.with 400' tower). In 4th St rotunda is colossal statue by L. G. Mead,
Father of Waters, in Carrara marble. (10) 201 E. 24th St, Institute of Arts (O.Tues.-
Fri.;Sat.lO-12.fee.l912.neo-Class.by McKim,Mead & White). In it are Amer., Fr. &
Eng. period rooms & a fine coll. of prints & paintings, some 16th & 17th cent, prints,
a Titian & a Rembrandt; also 3 fine Goth, tapestries & some bronzes by Paul Man-
ship, a native of St. Paul. (11) 200 E. 25th St, Minneapolis School of Fine Arts (O.
9-11 a.m.Tues.& Thurs.) has classes in painting, inter, decorating & industrial art
under well-known teachers. (12) 2600 Park Ave., Institute of Swedish Arts, Litera-
ture & Science (O.Thurs.2-4), center of Swedish culture with exhibits of glassware,
textiles & inventions, incl. orig. drawing of the "Monitor" by the inventor, John
Ericsson. (13) Main St & 9th Ave., N.E., St Anthony of Padua, oldest church in
Minneapolis, founded 1849. Present bldg. 1861. When the Irish outnumbered the
orig. Fr. founders the Fr. joined with Notre Dame de Lourdes. (14) 1625 5th St
(NE), St Mary's Cfa. (Russ.Ortho.), social & religious center for c.2,000 Carpatho-
Russians. Of special int. are Christmas & Easter servs. (midnight & sunrise). (15)
Gt Northern Stone Arch Bridge, below Third Ave., 2nd bridge to span Miss. R. It
is built like a Roman viaduct with 23 arches. (16) 3rd Ave. & Main St (SE) Pifls-
trary "A" Mil (tours wks.9-12 & 1-3), world's largest flour mill, built 1880. Interest-
ing feature is circular stairway of cast iron. (17) 6th Ave. S. at 1st & Canal Sts
WaAhum Crosby C n Mil (O.tours 9-1 1 & l-3;Sat.9-l 1). Its "A" Mill was destroyed
by fire, 1878. (18) 4th Ave. S. at 3rd St, Chamber of Commerce Grain Exchange
Gallery (O.Mon.-Fri.9:30-12), largest wheat, rye, barley & flax market in country&
2nd largest grain exchange. (19) End of Prince St, Notre Dame de Lwirdes Cfa.
<Cath.l857 ; Goth.adds.). Connected with this Fr. parish is convent & the only Fr.
school in city. (20) At Minnehaha Ave., Mhinehaha Pk., in which is Falls of Minne-
faafaa, made famous through Longfellow's poem, "Song of Hiawatha." A short dis-
tance above the falls is bronze group statue of Minnehaha & Hiawatha by Jacob
TRIPS OUT OF ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS 603
Fjelde, 1893. (21) At Minnehaha Cr., Stevens HL (1849), 1st frame bldg. on (W)
side. In it 1st white child, Mary Stevens, was born. Near-by is a bronze of Col. John
Stevens by Jacob Fjelde. (22) 3900 W. Riverside Dr., Michael Bowling School for
Crippled Children (O.appL), provides corrective training & treatment for handi-
capped youngster. It is a mem. to Michael Bowling, who in 1881 when 14 yrs. old,
while herding sheep in a blizzard, froze his legs, one arm & two fingers, all of
which had to be amputated. Despite it, he became school superintendent, editor &
banker. (23) 1501 E. River Terrace, St Frances Cabzini Ch. (1948.by Long &
Thorshor), excellent example of modern style,
TRIPS OUT OF ST. PAUI^MESDNEAPOOS
L ST. PAUL (NE) to STILLWATER. 19. US212
US212 travels (NE) to STILLWATER at 19., formerly center of a logging industry.
First commercial sawmill was built on St. Croix R. above Stiilwater. From here logs
were floated to St. Louis. Raft pilots had to be so skilled that those who qualified
received salaries from $300 to $500 a month. One of most famous raftsmen was
Capt Stephen Hanks, cousin of Lincoln, who became almost a legendary figure.
The revelry & rioting of the lumbermen is recalled every fall when the Lumberjack
Festival is held.
JL ST. PAUL (E) to ST. CROIX (Wis. Line). 11. US12
US12 travels directly (E) to ST. CROIX R. at 11. Here a toll bridge crosses over to
Wis. side.
HL ST. PAUL (SE) to WACOOTA, 47. US61 (Via: Red Wing)
US61 unites with US10 in St Paul & follows Hastings Ave. to J. with Pt Douglas
Rd. leading (R) to KED ROCK PK. at 5. Here in 1837 was founded an early Meth.
mission. In 1905 it became center of a large camp where leading evangelists held
forth. These meetings drew as many as 30,000 people on a Sun. The red granite
rock for which place was named was venerated by the Inds. who painted designs on
it. At 15.5. US61 crosses Miss. R. & enters HASTINGS, named for Gen. H. Has-
tings Sibley, fur trader, governor & member of Congress, but was 1st known as
Oliver's Grove because in 1819 Lt. Wm. G. Oliver & his troops camped here. At
Vermillion R. is old Ramsey Mill, remains of oldest mill in Minn., built by territorial
Gov. Ramsey. On Miss. R. is U.S. Dam & Lock #2, one of 26 dams built by U.S.
bet. Minneapolis & St. Louis. From business district (S) l m on US61 is Mansion of
Gen. Wm. G. LeDnc (O.appl.Vict Goth. 1860) graceful & simple, built in an age
when simplicity was not the fashion. It was copied from Downing's book "Archi-
tecture for Country Houses," whose designs inspired many Hudson River estates.
In Hastings is Interstate Bridge (1895), "only spiral bridge in world,** built to avoid
viaducting town's main street & soon (1949) to be replaced by mod, structure. At
Hastings is J. with St.55.
SIDE TRIP: On this Rd. (R) 3m to J. with marked Rd. leading (R) to Nininger 5m, home
of Ignatius Donnelly, reformer & crusader. He was known as the "apostle of protest."
His brilliant polemics in favor of the oppressed & his books, incl. "Atlantis** & "The Great
Cryptogram" (the latter tried to prove Lord Bacon the author of Shakespeare's plays) were
powerful & made Nininger the center of gay parties & lengthy political discussions. Panic
of 1857 practically wiped out town & with it Donnelly's holdings. His house still stands but
in disrepair. In 1860 he was made Lt Gov.
At 43. RED WING, center of clay industry, also has diversified industries, among
them marine motors for Gov. (most plants offer tours). In 1680 Father Hennipin
found here an Ind. village, named for Chief Red Wing by Fr. explorers.^ Swiss Protes-
tant missionaries erected a post here as early as 1 836 & Luth. congregation was est. in
1855. On Miss. R. is U.S. Dam & Lock #3. Majestic bluffs overlooking R. offer
magnificent views. Annual ski meet held here is largest in state. Red Wing has
country's 2nd municipally owned theater. 47. WACOUTA, village at head of L.
Pepin (34^ long & formed by Chippewa & Miss. Rs.). Father Hennepin & 2 other
Franciscans called it Lac des Pleurs because their captors wept all night, hoping to
persuade their chief to allow them to kill at least one of the padres. Present name
dates back to Pepin family of Canada, 2 of whose members accompanied Du Lhut
to the upper Miss. In vie. formerly stood Sevastopol, a river town, peopled by lumber-
jacks & raftsmen. When R. channel changed, c.1860, town disappeared completely.
4&04 TRIPS OUT OF ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS
IV. ST. PAUL (S) to ROCHESTER* 82. US52 (Via: S. St. Paul, Zumbrota, Oro-
noco)
4.5. J. with StiOO.
SIDE TRIP: On latter (L) 2.5m is S. St. Paul, not a part of St. Paul, 3rd largest stock
market in country. Here are: Union Stockyards built by A. B. Stickney (1888) covering
mere than 250 as. with facils. for feeding, vaccinating & caring for livestock; Armour
Packing Co. (tours Tues. to Sat.), 22 bldgs. & 4m of RR. tracks; Swift & Co. Plant (tours
MOIL to Fri; Sat. a.m.).
3$. CANNON FALLS. 59. ZUMBROTA. 0.5 m (N) of center of town is Minn.'s only
Covered Bridge (1863). 61. PINE L, Cheese Center of Minn. 66. ORONOCO.
82. ROCHESTER, (Plane, train & bus conns.)
Rochester is world famous because of the Mayo Clinic. From an insignificant little
hamlet 80 yrs. ago, it has become one of greatest medical centers of the world.
The development of this institution unfolded rapidly from the time of the big
cyclone, 1883, which almost wiped out Rochester, after which "Dr. Mayo & his
boys," with the aid of the Sisters of St. Francis, who built for them St. Mary's Hos-
pital, began their life work here. In 1915 the Mayos affiliated with the Univ. of
Minn. & est Mayo Foundation for Medical Research. With endowments totaling
up to $2,500,000, the foundation provides for graduate medical education & re-
search, & supplies clinic with adequate operators. Due to the genius of the Mayos,
who combined professional ability with vision & capacity for organization, this
mecca for the world's ill has been created. Sufferers from all walks of life & from
every corner of the country & the world can be seen in town & in the clinic. Roch-
ester is, therefore, a most cosmopolitan city. PTS. OF INT.: 102-10 2nd Ave.
SW., Mayo Clinic BIdg. (O.1914-29 by Ellerbe & Co. of StPaul.tours). This stately
22-story bldg. is completely modern in equipment & combines under one roof
every facility for diagnosis, dressings, laboratories, meeting rooms & lib. Carillons,
made in Croydon, England, the gift of the Drs. Mayo, are installed in the tower &
are played daily at twilight. In pk. opp., Mayo Foundation Mus. of Hygiene &
Medicine (O.wks.10-12 & 2-4;SatlO-12;Sun.2-5); exhibits of normal & pathological
tissue & organs of the human body. 3rd Ave. & SE. 12th St., Reid-Murdock Vege-
table Canning Plant (O.10-10 June 15-July 15 & Aug.15-Sept.15), one of world's
largest pea canneries.
V* MINNEAPOLIS {SW) to MANKATO. 76.5. US169
Via: Shakopee, Mudbaden, Jordan, Belle Plaine, Le Sueur, Traverse des Sioux & St
Peter.
US169 <& US212 leave Minneapolis at 50th St &, united, travel (SW) until US169 at
19. branches off (L). 20. SHAKOPEE, where in 1850 last battle bet. Chippewa &
Dakota Inds. took place. On 1st St, Log Cabin of O. Faribault (O.1844). Carl
Schurz, in 1859, called this sec. of the Minn. R. as beautiful as the Rhine. His praise
of the reg. encouraged heavy German immigration. 29.5. MUDBADEN, health
resort with mud baths. 39.5 BELLE PLAINE. Here the "Fanny Harris," bringing
troops to St Paul (1861), was caught in a raging torrent because of spring floods.
The captain piloted the boat 10 m across the flooded plain into calmer waters before
returning to channel. 55. LE SUEUR, named for 17th cent, explorer. On Main St.
(L) is Mayo H. (O) residence of the two famous surgeons & their doctor father. In
vie. is a Mex. Village consisting of Mex. beet workers recruited from Texas. 62.5.
(R) TRAVERSE DES SIOUX ST. PK. (pic.facils.23 as.) comm. signing of treaty
with Sioux (1851). 64.5. ST. PETER, which by some pioneers was expected to be
state capital. A "first" capital bldg. was erected here in 1857. St Peter was home of
5 Minn. Governors. Here is Gustavus Adoiphus College maintained by Conference
of Augustana Synod of N. America (Swedish). 76.5. MANKATO (see US 14) 4^
(W) is Minneopa St. Pk. (1 10 as.pic.facils.hik.).
VL MINNEAPOLIS (S) to FARIBAULT. 58. US65 (Via: Northfield & Bridgewater)
7. J. with St35 leading (R) to J. with dirt Rd. On this Rd. 2.5^ (L) is Bush L. SM
Slide, making a 200' jump possible. 11. US65 crosses the MINN. R. 21.5. ANTLERS
PIL on L. Marion (resortbeach.pic.golf). 28. FARMINGTON, has a milk co-op
8 members. 32. CASTLE ROCK. At c.41. hy. follows bank of
^ oth ? ldes of which Carlet a CoUege has its Arboretum (300 as.).
NORTHFIELD, home of Carleton & St Olaf Colleges. Carleton was founded
1866 & functions in cooperation with various denominational churches. Thorstein
TRIPS OUT OF ST. PAULMINNEAPOLIS 605
Veblen, famous economist & philosopher attended Carleton & lived in Northfield
from time he was 8 yrs. old. He was author of 'Theory of the Leisure Class" &
translator of "Laxdela Saga." St. Olaf, fully accredited liberal arts college is sup-
ported by Luth. Chs. of U.S. & is home of well-known St OM Lufe. Choir, which
gives concerts all over the country & even abroad. O. E. Rolvaag, author of "Giants
in the Earth" taught here. The School of the Air has a broadcasting sta. & gives
courses in making broadcasts & in stimulating thoughtful listening. Annual Music
Festival, 3rd wk. in May. Northfield was scene of a Jesse James bank hold-up, Sept
7, 1876. del Miller & Bill Stiles were killed & Bob Younger wounded. Jesse & Frank
James escaped on stolen horses. On Sept. 21, after a manhunt with 1,000 pursuers,
Charlie Pitts was killed & the 3 Younger Bros, were captured & imprisoned for
life. US65 bet Northfield & Faribault passes 16 abandoned mill sites of Civil War
period.
46.5. DUNDAS. Here in the 186Q's the Archibald Bros, pioneered in a new flour-
milling method, secret process brought over by La Croix family. Collapse of the
Cannon R. land boom of 1856 left a string of deserted villages in this vie. described
in Edw. Eggleston's novel "Mystery of Metropolisville" 1873. 51.5. BRIDGE-
WATER. 56.5. J. with St.2I leading (R) here 8^ to French L. (f.duck h.). 58. FARI-
BAULT, called by its horticulturists the "Nation's Peony Capital," was a fur trading
post in 1826. In center of town is Alexander Faribauli H., first frame house. For a
long time it & the Whipple H. were the town's social meeting places. Latter, no
longer standing, was home of Henry Ben. Whipple, Episc. Bishop, a real friend of
the Inds., a "rational abolitionist," & a conservative Democrat & politician. His
counsel was sought by Queen Victoria & the Presidents of the U.S. He lies buried in
Episc. Cathedral (1st in U.S.). Faribault also has St. James Military Academy &
St School for Blind, Deaf & Dumb. Attached is School for Feebleminded, which
pioneered in that field with great success.
VH. MINNEAPOLIS (SW) to CHASKA. 31. US212
1.5. J. with St.7.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) 4m to Minnehaha Cr. At 4.5m is side Rd. leading (L) 2 to
Hopkins, famed for raspberries. Annual raspberry festival during picking season. St7
passes through a reg. of lakes. At c.!2m is L. Mkmetoaka, the most beautiful, as its Ind,
name indicates. Luxury side-wheelers such as the "Belle of Mmnetonka" & the "Phil Sheri-
dan," carrying as many as 3,500 persons plied the Minnetonka's waters, c.1867. The lake
has become known particularly through Cadman*s "Land of the Sky Blue Water" &
Lieurance's "By the Waters of Mkmetonka." Along the 50m of St7, dozens of other lakes
abound.
27. on US12 are the SHAKOPEE LIMESTONE LEDGES & at 31. CHASKA, a
predominantly German village with 3 Ind. Mounds in City Pk. & a local Mineral
Springs known for healing qualities.
VDL MINNEAPOLIS (N) to TAYLOR FALLS (WIs. Line). 53.5. US8 (Via: Center
City)
7. J. with Cty. D., leading (R) 2 m to Nazareth HaH, a seminary on L. Johanna. The
bldgs., except the Romanes, chapel (intchapel inter.), are architecturally similar to
those in Lombardy. At 9. J. with US10 & at 26.5. J. with US61, running through
lake country. 32. WYOMING & at 39. CMsago City which, together with LIND-
STROM at 42. & CENTER CITY at 43.5., form nucleus of Swedish culture in
Minn, in reg. sett. 1850-51 when many pioneers came from Sweden to establish,
here a colony & a conference of the Swedish Luth. Ch. (1854). Swedes still celebrate
Mid-summer night June 24-25. US8 turns abruptly (E). TAYLOR FALLS (see
US61) at 53.5. is especially interesting to geologists. To (R) is Interstate Pk. (154
as.). Here is Turbulent R. in a gorge rising 200' from water's edge. Near-by, "Glacial
Gardens" (boatf.pic.facils.). Here rock formations were created after the "Ice Age.**
Excellent area to study geology & Ind. petroglyphs. On both sides of river are the
Dalles of the St. Croix. Int. geological Pot Holes, Lookout Mt is legendary battle-
ground of the Sioux & Chippewa. So bloody were the conflicts that the Inds. called
it "Valley of Bones." Here still is Win. H. C. Folsom H. (1854.Georg.), constructed
of locally sawed lumber & built by Maine carpenters, & Ch. built by Folsom (1861),
Taylor Falls is at S. edge of white pine stands. Along river are found wild orchids,
the Minn, state flower, sometimes called Indian-shoe or ladyslipper.
THE PLAINS STATES
MISSOURI IOWA KANSAS
NEBRASKA NORTH DAKOTA
SOUTH DAKOTA
THE PLAINS STATES
Westward from the Mississippi River in an almost unbroken sweep of prairie,
gradually rising toward the High Plains area beyond which the Rockies begin,
extend the Plains States: Missouri, Iowa, Kansas, Nebraska, North & South Dakota.
Until little more than a century ago, this expanse of open country almost treeless,
with little water, where the wind rippled seemingly endless acres of grass was
part of the "Great American Desert," a barrier to westward settlement. Across it
roved huge herds of buffalo, hunted by bands of nomadic Indians, horsemen & wig-
wam dwellers. Life was harsh for the earliest white settlers here, building their log
shanties, their sod huts & dugouts along the river valleys & then across the plains:
they faced blizzards & sudden floods, long droughts <& parching, hot winds. Har-
assed at first by raiding Indians, later they were beset by frontier desperadoes
Quantrill's 'Bushwhackers,*' train & bank robbers like Jesse & Frank James or the
palton brothers, & other adventurers. Law & order were precariously maintained
in their pioneer towns, unlovely settlements of weatherbeaten frame buildings,
against a floating population of gunmen, gamblers, prostitutes. Nevertheless settle-
ment was pushed forward, spurred by westward traffic: steamboats on the rivers,
pack trains & wagon caravans along the trails to Santa Fe and Oregon, the overland
stage companies & the Pony Express, the first transcontinental railroads. Gradually,
after the Civil War & the end of hostilities with the Indians, the open ranges were
crisscrossed with barbed-wire, as homesteaders succeeded cattlemen, planting wheat
& other crops; & the region developed into what it is today: the nation's breadbasket.
Grain elevators & stockyards became the symbols of its prosperity; & newly sprung-
lip cities, gathering in the harvest of the farmlands, grew to metropolitan centers,
fringed with railroad yards & factories.
The level or easily rolling terrain of this trans-Mississippi region, sparsely tim-
bered except along river bottoms & broken only by the rugged, forested Ozarks of
southern Missouri & the Black Hills of western South Dakota, sweeps all the way,
gently tilting, from the Mississippi to the eroded uplands of the High Plains along
its western border, where the sand hills of northwestern Nebraska & the Badlands
of the Dakotas appear. By far the greater part of the whole area is drained by the
wide, muddy Missouri River & its tributaries, among them the James & Big Sioux
in the Dakotas, the Platte in Nebraska, the Kansas in Kansas, & the Osage in Mis-
souri. Eastern Iowa is drained by tributaries of the Mississippi, largest of which is
the Des Moines; eastern North Dakota by the Red River of the North; southern
Missouri, by the St. Francis, White & other Ozark streams; southern Kansas, by
the Arkansas River.
This was the abode of various tribes of Indians: the agricultural, village-dwell-
ing Arikara, Hidatsa, Iowa, Kansa, Mandan, Missouri, Omaha, Osage, Oto, Pawnee,
Sac & Fox, Wichita, & others & the plains-wandering, usually more warlike Arapaho
and Cheyenne, Assiniboin, Chippewa, Comanche, Kiowa & Sioux. Of these, the
much-feared Sioux ranged a vast territory stretching from western Iowa through
northern Nebraska, South Dakota, & southern North Dakota, to the north, south
& southwest of which roved the other nomadic tribes & to the east, southeast &
south of which dwelt the agricultural tribes.
The first white men known to have set foot within this region were Francisco
THE PLAINS STATES 607
Vasquez de Coronado & his army of 300 Spaniards from the south, seeking fabled
Quivira in 154L They traveled north to a point somewhere near the center of Kan-
sas or farther before they turned back, disappointed in their search for gold & silver.
Other Spanish explorers ventured into the region in 1594 & 1601. In 1673, Louis
Jolliet & Pere Jacques Marquette, on their voyage down the Mississippi River,
touched land on the Iowa & Missouri shores; & in 1682 La Salle, traveling the
Mississippi to its mouth, claimed the whole valley for France. Before the end of
the 17th century, French-Canadian fur traders & missionaries were exploring the
region; & in 1700 Jesuits established a short-lived settlement on the site of St.
Louis. By 1720, southeastern Missouri's lead deposits were being worked & French
voyageurs, traveling up the Missouri & its tributaries, had penetrated into Kansas
& Nebraska. Fort Orleans was established on the Missouri in 1723. In 1743 Pierre
Gaultier de Varennes, Sieur de la Verendrye, visited the Dakotas, the first known
white man to do so. The first permanent settlement in the region was made by some
Creole families at Ste Genevieve (Mo.) about 1750, & in 1764 the New Orleans firm
of Maxent, Laclede & Co., having received a monopoly of the fur trade, founded St.
Louis for its headquarters. French claims west of the Mississippi had been ceded
in 1762 to Spain, but Spanish officials exerted little more than nominal control over
Upper Louisiana. In 1788 the first settlement in Iowa was made by Julien Dubuque,
French-Canadian, who established a fort & prospered at lead mining & trading with
the Indians. About 1792 Louis Lorimier established a trading post on the site of
Cape Girardeau (Mo.). By this tune American settlers, encouraged by liberal Span-
ish land grants, had begun to settle Missouri. The Louisiana Territory passed back
in 1801 to the French, & in 1803, through the Louisiana Purchase, to the U.S.
From St. Louis exploring expeditions were soon dispatched: one in 1804 led by
Capt Meriwether Lewis & Lieut Wm. Clark up the Missouri River & down the
Columbia to the Pacific Coast, & one in 1806 led by Capt. Zebulon M. Pike up the
Osage River & across Kansas & Nebraska toward Colorado. Wilson Price Hunt
led a party of fur traders up the Missouri & across Nebraska in 1810 and Robert
Stewart led another party east from Astoria (Ore.) over the same route In 1812.
Maj. Stephen H. Long headed a scientific expedition up the South Platte to Its head-
waters in 1819. Fur trading posts, missionary schools, & military forts were rapidly
established along the Missouri River & in the Dakotas.
Missouri, made a Territory in 1812, was admitted to the Union as a slave state
in 1821, following adoption by Congress of the famous Missouri Compromise,
which forbade admission in the future of any more slave states north of 36* 30'.
Rapidly settled, principally by Southerners, it prospered on steamboat traffic along
the Missouri & overland trade with Mexico via the Santa Fe Trail, opened in 1821.
Settlement of Iowa was spurred by the Black Hawk Purchase of 1833, opening lands
of the Sac & Fox Indians: Dubuque, Burlington, Davenport, & Keokuk were quickly
laid out; in 1845 the region around Des Moines was opened to settlers, and the year
following, Iowa (since 1838 a Territory) was admitted to the Union. The Indian
frontier had now been pushed west of the Missouri River.
By the early 1840*s a growing procession of travelers had begun to follow what
became by far the most important of the overland trails to the Far West, along the
Missouri & Platte River Valleys across Missouri, eastern Kansas, & central Ne-
braska; & pioneer trading centers along the route sprang up: Independence, West-
port (now Kansas City), Atchison, St. Joseph, Omaha. The first large organized
group to take this trail were the Mormons, forced out of Missouri by Gentile hos-
tility, who traveled toward their Promised Land in Utah along the north bank of
the Platte in 1847. The Oregon Trail, following the south bank, was soon a heavily
traveled route, pursued after 1848 for part of its length by thousands of California-
bound gold seekers in covered wagons. Along it were dispatched the overland mail
& freight wagons of the Russell, Waddell & Majors Freighting Co., with headquar-
ters at Leavenworth, Kansas; it was this firm which established on April 3* 1860 the
famous Pony Express, carrying mail from St. Joseph to Placerville, California, in
ten and a half days. The Butterfield Overland Stage Company, at first traveling
across southern Missouri on the southern route to California, transferred to the
central route after the beginning of the Civil War. In 1862 the firm of Russell,
Waddell & Majors, having gone bankrupt, was acquired by Ben Holladay, who
expanded operations until by 1866 he had what was probably the country's biggest
one-man business, with 5,000 miles of stage line.
PLAINS STATES
1 THE PLAINS STATES
The westward migration stimulated settlement of Kansas & Nebraska, but they
were admitted as Territories only in 1854 after protracted Congressional debate
over slavery, resulting in repeal of the Missouri Compromise. The resulting clash
between anti- & pro-slavery settlers in "bleeding Kansas" led to guerrilla warfare
along the Kansas-Missouri Border, marked by such incidents as the sacking of
Lawrence by "border ruffians" (pro-slavery) & the retaliatory Osawatomie massa-
cres led by John Brown (who later headed the raid on Harpers Ferry) until Free
Staters grew strong enough to force adoption of an anti-slavery constitution in 1859,
followed by Statehood in 1861. The Civil War split Missouri between pro-Union &
pro-Confederate forces; the latter, retreating from the capital, Jefferson City, were
defeated at Boonville, June 17, 1861 & driven southwestward, where they won a
few local victories in the area around Springfield but were finally forced over the
Arkansas border the following spring. Thereafter, Confederate resistance took the
form of skirmishes, of which 1,162 were fought in Missouri, until late in 1864, when
Confederate General Sterling Price led his troops in the three-day Battle of West-
port, "Gettysburg of the West," ending in Confederate defeat. Falling back, his
forces were again defeated at the Battle of Mine Creek in eastern Kansas.
The first railroads, pushed across Iowa & Missouri in the 1850's, were mean-
while being extended westward. In 1862 ground was broken at Omaha for the Union
Pacific, first transcontinental line, completed in 1869, two years after Nebraska's
admission to the Union. Settlement of western Nebraska & the Dakotas, under way
since the late 1850*s, was marked by frequent clashes with hostile Plains Indians,
especially the Sioux. U.S. Army troops were kept busy in the War of the Outbreak
In South Dakota (1861-65), the war with the Sioux & the Cheyenne which broke
out in Nebraska in 1864, & the campaign of 1876 in North Dakota ending in Gen.
George A. Custer's defeat at the Battle of the Little Big Horn. Throughout these
years the Plains Indians were gradually being forced south of Kansas* southern
border into Indian Territory. During the 1870's the blazing of the Chisholm Trail
& other famous cattle trails over which Texas cattle were driven to railheads in
western Kansas & Nebraska, spurred the rapid growth of wild & woolly cow towns
such as Abilene, Wichita, Dodge City, Hays, and Ogallala. The discovery of gold
in the Black Hills in 1876, attracting to the new settlement of Deadwood a stampede
of adventurers among them Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, & other picturesque
characters promoted the settlement of the Dakotas (to which settlers had already
been lured by the construction of the Northern Pacific as far west as Bismarck in
1870). Finally, in 1889, the only twin states in the Union, North & South Dakota,
were slmultaiieously admitted.
The passing of the frontier, officially noted in the Census of 1890, was followed
in the Plains States by^a grass-roots movement for the settlement of political &
economic grievances, aimed largely against eastern banking & railroad interests*
The economic depression of the 1890's, aggravated in the trans-Mississippi region
by prolonged droughts & grasshopper plagues, whipped up unrest, which took politi-
cal form in the Farmers* Alliance or "People's Party" (as it was renamed at its
second _ convention in Omaha, 1892). Its campaign for reforms especially for
free coinage of silver helped bring to national prominence the "boy orator of
the Platte,* 9 William Jennings Bryan of Nebraska, whose "cross of gold** speech at the
Democratic Party convention of 1896 won him the Presidential nomination. The
unrest of this period was also reflected in such phenomena as the march from Omaha
to Washington in 1894 of "Kelly's Army" of unemployed & in the half -million cir-
culation achieved by the "Appeal to Reason," Socialist newspaper published at
Girard., Kansas. Although the political revolt of the 1890's failed, it made the trans-
Mississippi region a factor in national politics, whose influence was still felt in 1912
IB Theodore Roosevelt's "progressive" movement & in Woodrow Wilson's nomina-
tion (with Bryan's backing) and election in that year.
The twentieth century brought increased prosperity. The intensive development
of agriculture, carried on ever since the introduction of wheat growing in 1870 had
begun to crowd out the cattle ranchers, made the region one of the country's richest
farm areas. Kansas City, Omaha, St Joseph, Sioux City flourished as grain & live-
stock markets with flour mills & meat-packing plants. Meanwhile, the older cities
along the Mississippi, led by St Louis, had grown into bustling railroad & industrial
centers; Dubuque, Davenport, Burlington, Clinton, & other Iowa cities, grown
prosperous as sawmill towns converting into lumber great rafts of logs floated down-
US 40MESSOUKI 611
river, acquired metalworking & other plants: Iowa tractors, -farm machinery^ &
washing machines began to be produced, along with Iowa com & hogs. Exploita-
tion of mineral deposits Iowa, Missouri & Kansas, coal; Iowa, gypsum; Missouri
& Kansas, lead and zinc; Missouri, barite, clay, & silica; Kansas, oil & gas; Dakota,
lignite & gold brought new wealth. World War I spurred both agricultural &
industrial expansion. The prosperous 1920's were reflected in the building booms
& programs of civic improvement which transformed the region's urban centers;
some of its smaller cities Des Momes, Topeka, Lincoln, Wichita grew rapidly
bigger (especially Wichita, boomed to metropolitan importance by oil & aircraft
manufacturing).
The economic depression of the 1930*s, attended (like that of the 1890's) by
disastrous droughts & crop failures, revived political unrest. The Farm Holiday
Association, originating in Iowa, led farmers in struggles against foreclosures on
farm mortgages & in picketing of market centers; the Farmer-Labor Party extended
its political activities into the area. But gradually, after 1933, recovery began, aided
by Federal &, State legislation providing for mortgage moratoriums, agricultural
subsidies & crop-control programs & by the growth of fanners* cooperatives. The
introduction of long-needed conservation measures (whose best-known champion
was Nebraska's Senator George W. Norris) began to put the region's agriculture
on a sounder basis; irrigation projects, programs for erosion control, planting of
shelter belts of trees (for wind protection) helped counteract the bad farming prac-
tices of the past. The building of dams, not only to impound water for irrigation but
also to generate hydroelectric power, promoted industrial development. Support
grew for the creation of a Missouri Valley Project, similar to the Tennessee Valley
Project sponsored by Senator Norris, to aid the realization of the region's poten-
tialities. However rich its harvest of farm & factory products even after World
War II, which boomed output to the highest level yet reached these potentialities
still remain to be fully exploited.
US 40 MISSOURI
ST. LOUIS, MO. (W) to KANSAS CITY, MO. 256. US40
Via: St. Charles, Warrenton, Columbia, Boonville & Concordia. RJRs. parallel most of
route. Accoms.: Tourist & trlr. camps at frequent intervals, hotels in cities.
US40 cuts across central Mo., roughly following main route taken by westward-
moving settlers. It crosses Mo. R., NW. of St Louis, & heads (W) over course of
Boon's Lick TrL, once followed by stagecoaches & covered wagons. Crossing R.
again at Boonville, it proceeds over rolling fertile prairie uplands.
For pts. of int. & towns on or near US40 bet St Louis & J. with US61 (see) at
WENTZVBLLE, 40., see St Louis IL 56. WARRENTON is site of Central Wes-
leyan College (est.1852), E. end of Main St 103. J. with US54.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) Take latter (R) to Mexico, 17m, which calls itself "Fire Brick & Saddle
Horse Center of the World," laid out in 1836. Its 1st inhabitants were horse lovers; by
1890's, town was site of many large stables. Huge deposit of fire clay was discovered be-
neath town site soon after 1900, leading to est of clay refractories. A. P. Green Fire Brick
Co. Plant, E. end of Breckenridge St., is one of largest plants of kind in world. Here also
is Mo. Military Academy.
(B) Take US54 (L) to Fulton, 7m, seat of Calloway Cty., which since 1830 has been lead-
ing producer among Mo. counties of famed "Missouri mule." Fulton, founded in 1825,
depends also on farm trade & its shoe~mf g. & clay refractories plants. Capt. Jas. Calloway
MOBL, cth. square, comm. pioneer Mo. settler. E. 5th & State Sts., SI Hospital No. 1
(opened 1849), was 1st institution for mental patients W. of Miss. R. Fulton is also site
of Mo. Sdfcu for the Deaf (founded 1851), 5th & Vine Sts.; William Woods College, 12th
& Nichols Sts., girls' jr. college directed by Christian Ch.; & Westminster College (opened
1853), Westminster Ave. bet 4th & 7th Sts., 4-yr. institution supported by Presb. Ch. US54
cont to Jefferson Cily, 32m (see US50) at J. with US50 (see).
124. COLUMBIA is university town of venerable lineage, garden-dotted, with well-
stocked shops & department stores & farm produce wholesale houses & shoe & gar-
ment factories. It was laid out in 1821, around log cabin built earlier by Thos.
Duley, & soon thrived as stopping place on Boon's Lick Trl. Its early settlers, largely
from the Virginia & Kentucky reg. were strong for education: in 1829 was founded
Bonne Femme Academy & in 1833, Columbia Female Academy; & when St univ.
612 US 40 MISSOURI
was projected, Columbia & Boone Cty. citizens began vigorous & successful cam-
paign to have it located here. This, 1st St. univ. est. W. of Miss. R., was opened in
1841 in Columbia College (chartered 1835) bldg. Christian College & Stephens
College, both girls' schools, were chartered later. PTS. OF INT.: At opp. ends of
8th St stand (1) on N., Columns of Old Oh. (1848), left when bldg. which re-
placed 1st cth. (1824) was razed in 1908, & (2) on S., The Columns, in center of
Francis Quadrangle of Univ. of Mo., 6 ivy-covered Ionic pillars which are all that
remains of 1st univ. bldg. (1840.burned 1892). Main entrance to campus is through
gray-stone-pillared Mem. Gateway, Elm St at 8th St. Jesse Hall contains, on 1st fl.,
orig. tombstone from Thos. Jefferson's grave at Monticello & on 3rd & 4th fls., art
exhibits. Jay H. Neff & Walter Williams Halls house Sch. of Journalism, 1st in world
to grant degree in journalism; former contains exhibit of objects dealing with history
of printing. SE. of Francis Quadrangle is Gen. Lib., Eng. Ren. style, which houses
St Hist Soc, of Mo. coll. of more than 200,000 volumes & pamphlets; latter's 1st
ffl. reading room contains paintings by Geo. Caleb Bingham. Goth.-style 140' Mem.
Tower, NE. of Gen. Lib., stands at entrance to E., or White, Campus, whose white-
limestone structures are more recent than red-brick ones of Main, or Red, Campus
centering around Francis Quadrangle. Here also are experimental fields & livestock
feams of College of Agria; Sanbom Field (est. 1888) is country's oldest experimental
farm. Athletic facils., incl. Rollins Field & Mem. Stadium, are to (S). (3) Broadway
Ave. bet Waugh St & College Ave., Stephens College, for women, grew out of
Columbia Female, or Lucy Wales, Academy (1833-53), succeeded by Bapt Female
College (chartered 1856); latter, becoming St institution in 1870, was renamed for
Jas. L. Stephens, who gave it $20,000 endowment. Its bldgs., principally of modified
Eng. Ren. style, are scattered over more than 200 as. (4) 1403 E. Broadway, 3. L.
Stephens EL (1843) was built by college's namesake. (5) 2001 E. Broadway, Gordon
Manor (1823), now college property, was built by slave labor for pioneer settler
Capt David Gordon. (6) 100 Hitt St., Presb. Student Center occupies 2-story brick
house built (1828) by Jas. Hickman. (7) Christian College & Rogers Aves., Christian
College, women's jr. college housed in group of Romanes. & Eng. Ren. structures
is on 20-a. campus.
Columbia is at J. with US63.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Moberly, 36.5, RR. division pt & repair center with
mfg plants & near-by coal mines, dating from 186Q's. N. Mo. RR. repair shops, built here
in 1872 were 1st W. of Miss. R. Coal mining began in vie. in 1880's. Moberly Free Pub.
Lib has Gen. Omar N. Bradley Trophy Room, honoring World War II Comdr. who went
to high sck here. Rotfawefl Pk. (boatswim.!), W. edge of town, is 320-a. wooded area
with large L. 59.5m Macon, known as "City of Maples" for many ancient maples, grew
up with advent of Hannibal & St. Joseph RR. in late 1850*s. Near-by coal mining area
employs one of world's biggest strip mining machines. 94.5m Kirksvifle, center of grain &
livestock raising area, with factories & wholesale houses 3 was founded in 1841. Here on
Aug. 6, 1862, Feds, defeated Confeds. in Battle of Kirksville, whose site is incorporated in
Mem. Pk^ Hickory St. bet. Mulaniz St. & Florence Ave. Pk. was also site of 1st normal
school W. of Miss. R., opened in 1867; this institution, now Mo. St. Teachers College,
occupies 20-a, campus on E. Normal Ave. bet Marion & Mulaniz Sts. Kirksville College
f Osteopathy & Surgery, W. Jefferson St. bet 5th St & Osteopathy Ave., country's 1st &
largest of its kind, was founded in 1892 by Dr. Andrew Taylor Still, pioneer osteopath.
148. J. with St.5.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to New Franklin, 1.5m, laid out in 1828 along bluffs overlook-
ing Mo. R. Scott-Kingsbory EL (1835), 3m, is surrounded by apple orchards. Lilac Hill
(c.1832), 11.501, is one of Mo.'s best examples of Fed. style. Fayette, 12.5m, was socially
& politically important from time it became, in 1823, seat of Howard Cty., known as
"Mother of Counties'* since it included number of Mo. & Iowa counties later formed
from it N. end of Main St., Central College, 4-yr. coed, institution which began in 1844
as Howard High School. Judge Abiel Leonard H. (c.1835) was home of noted early poli-
tician. Morrison Observ., Fayette City Pk., was largest observatory W. of Miss. R., when
est. in 1874 in near-by Glasgow; it was moved here in 1935. Clalbome Fox Jackson H.
(c.1847), 14m, wa s residence of Mo.'s governor at beginning of Civil War. Glasgow, 25.5m,
spilling over steep Mo. R. bluffs, laid out in 1836, prospered until R. traffic declined. Long
Chicago & Alton RR. Bridge built across R. here in 1878-79 was alleged 1st all-steel Ry.
bridge; it served until 1922, when new one was erected. Lewis Lib. Bldg. (1866), built by
Col. Benj. W. Lewis, Sn, is supposed to be Mo.'s oldest library bldg. Former Lewis College
Bldgs. (1849-50 & 1852) have Gr. Rev. facades.
At 149. are Js. with St87 & unimproved dirt Rd.
US 40 MISSOURI 613
SIDE TRIPS: (A) Take latter (L) short distance to Rivercene (1869), once home of
steamboat owner Capt. Jos. Kinney, now mus. of early furnishings & paintings, incl.
portraits by Geo. Caleb Bingham.
(B) Take St.87 (R) to Site of Old Franklin, 0.5m, designated by mon. erected by Mo. Press
Assoc., comm. "Missouri Intelligencer & Boon's Lick Advertiser" (1819), 1st newspaper
begun W. of Miss. R. Franklin became in 1821, 5yrs. after it had been laid out, head of
Santa Fe Trl. Here Geo. Caleb Bingham, rjainter, & Kit Carson, trapper & trader, spent
their early days. Its prosperity was short-lived, however; by mid-century, it had almost
disappeared. At 2m is J. with an unmarked local Rd.; route cont. straight ahead on latter
to J. at 9m with another unmarked local Rd.
(L) on this is Site of Cooper's Ft, lm y indicated by granite marker. Here, in biggest of
fts. built in Boon's Lick reg., pioneer settlers, led by Col. Benj. A. Cooper, defended
themselves against Ind. attack during War of 1812.
Route cont. straight ahead from J. at 9*a to J. with cty. Rd., 9.1m, turns (L) on this to
another unmarked gravel Rd., llm, & (R) O n this to farm at 12m on which is Boon's Ock
Spring. Spring was probably named for Dan. Boone, who perhaps made salt here about
year 1800, & whose sons, Nathan & Dan. a with others, opened salt works on site in 1806.
US40 bridges Mo. R. to hill-fringed BOONVILLE, 150.5., on bluffs, 1st sett, in
1810, which flourished as R. port & milling center & chief trading center for whole
Gzark region of Missouri. Civil War's 1st conflict, ending in Confed. defeat,
was fought 4 m S. on June 17, 1861; 2nd Battle of Boonville was fought Sept. 13,
1861 on ridge of R. bluff. After Civil War, by-passed by RRs., Boonville suffered
decline, but new industries & hy. trans, facils. have revived prosperity. Kemper
Military Sch. (founded 1844), Center Ave. 3rd St., one of whose alumni was
humorist Will Rogers, is one of the first boys* schs. in the state, Goth. Rev.
Christ Episc. Ch. (1846), Vine & 4th Sts., is oldest Episc. Ch. W. of Miss. R. Main
& Vine Sts., Lyric Theatre (1855-57.Gr.Rev.), orig. Thespian Hall, is said to be
first theatre of Western region. In Walnut Grove Cemetery, SE. part of town, is
Grave of David Barton, pres. of Mo.'s Constitutional Convention & its 1st U.S.
Senator. 745 Main St., Sen* Geo. G* Vest EL (remcxL), was home of lawyer & poli-
tician whose "Eulogy of the Dog" was celebrated example of 19th cent Amer.
oratory. At 157. is J. with St.41.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Arrow Rock, 12.5m, oioneer Santa Fe TrL town & Mo. R.
port. Here, at R. crossing, fur trading post was est. Town was platted in 1829. CMd Tavern
(c.l834.enlarged & restfee.meals & overnight accoms.) contains authentic early Amer.
furniture, incl. canopy bed in which Geo. Washington sleot; its taproom is mus. of pioneer
relics. Beyond is 34-a. Arrow Rock St. Pk. (pic.camp.), in which stand grim-visaged old
stone Arrow Rock Jail (1871); Arrow Rock Academy BIdg., of an early girls* sch. (est.
1842); & Geo. Caleb Bingham H. (c.l840.reconstructed), onetime residence of famed Mo.
painter. (L) from Arrow Rock 0.7m S. of Arrow Rock Cemetery, is Win. B. SappmgtoH
EL (1844), one of St's more outstanding specimens of Gr. Rev.
176.5. J. with US65 (see). 196.5. CONCORDIA is inhabited largely by descendants
of orig. German settlers, who came soon after 1840 & laid out town in 1868. St.
Paul's College (est 1884) is Luth. theological academy. 205.5. J. with SU3.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Lexington, 19.5m, with many ante bellum homes, which
grew up around Mo. R. ferry est. here in 1819 & developed into prosperous R. port.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Lafayette County Cth. (1847~49.1ater adds.), center of town, is Mo.'s
oldest still-used cth. & one of its best examples of Gr. Rev. architecture. (2) Also of Gr.
Rev. design is Pub. Lib. & Hist Assoc. BIdg. (main sec.l 840 .later adds.), 112 S. 13th St.,
orig. built as a ch. (3) Adj. Christ Episc. Ch, (main part 1848) is in Goth, style with octag-
onal tower. (4) Wentworth Mil. Academy (est.1880), 18th St. & Washington Ave., is high
sch. & jr. college. (5) On R. bluffs, surrounded by CoEege Pk., N. end 16th St, is arcaded
Mem. BIdg., on site of world's 1st Masonic college (1848-1932), which it partly reproduces.
(6) Near-by is the Lexington Battlefield, where in Sept. 1861 Confeds., after more than
48 hours' firing at earthen entrenchments (still visible) of Feds., advanced against furious
fire of Union troops to win bloody victory. (7) Wm. Oliver Anderson EL (1853.fee) is
now mus. of Civil War relics. Also overlooking R. at N. edge of town are (8) 18' cast-stone
Pioneer Mother Mon. (1928.Fred.C.Hibbard,sculptor) & (9) World War Menu (1925),
approached by long stairway. Stl3, crossing Mo. R., cont. to Richmond, 27.5m, laid out
in 1827, where is Gr. Rev. Old Ray County Cth. (ante bellum).
217. ODESSA, laid out in 1878, is farmers' trading & shipping center. 243.5. J. with
US Bypass 71 (Noland Rd.).
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Independence, 4.5m, today almost Kansas City suburb. It
was laid out in 1827 as seat of Jackson Cty. & orig. log first Jackson Comity Cth.,
107 W. Kansas Ave., remains one of chief landmarks. Following arrival in 1831 of 5 Mor-
mon elders sent by Jfos. Smith from Ohio, it rapidly became populous Mormon settlement,
C14 US 40 MISSOURI
until local resentment forced Mormons to leave in 1834. (Independence is today, however,
world has. of Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Sauits, whose vast domed
Stori H m& Office Bldg. (1927), Walnut St. bet. S. River Blvd. & S. Grand Ave., seats
10,000 people.) Whea Gold Rush to CaL began, blacksmith shop & wagon factory opened
by Sani Western in 1830 became starting point for covered-wagon trains 1st RE.. W.
of Miss R. was built 3.5m (N) to Wayne City landing on Mo. R. Modern Independence s
most fa^ouspt of int. is ftes. Harry S. Traman EL (1865) 214 N. Delaware, frame Viet,
mansion built by Mrs. Truman's grandfather, Geo. Porterfield Gates.
256. KANSAS CITY .^, o . J _ . * ~ TT * i
Through WL, bus & plane conns. Accoms.: Plentiful^ varied. Info.: C. of O, Hotel
Continental, llth St. & Baltimore Ave. Mun. Auditorium; Music Hall & Little Theater
for concerts & plays; Arena for boxing & wrestling. Swim, at mun. pools in pub. pks.
Mun. golf courses & tennis courts in Swope Pk. & other pks.
Mo.'s 2nd largest city, Kansas City nicknames itself "The Heart of America." Near
geographical center of country, it spreads (S) from Mo. R. at its confluence with
Kansas R. Its location has made it hub of vast network of transcontinental RRs.,
airlines & fays. It is one of Nation's chief markets for cattle, horses & mules, grain,
fruits & vegetables, butter, eggs & poultry. In addition to its food processing & hand-
ling industries, it has steel, oil, aviation, automobile assembling & garment mfg.
plants; & it is important wholesale & retail trading & banking center. It has sky-
scraper-dominated business dist. & impressive pub. bldgs.; imposing network of hand-
some blvds., pks. & landscaped residential areas; & variety of cultural & educational
facils. In 1939, Kansas City had a major scandal when its corrupt political machine
was exposed & Boss T. J. Pendergast was sent to jail for income tax evasion. The
"machine** has not been able to make a comeback since.
Downtown Kansas City, centering around inters, of Main & 12th Sts., comprising
largest stores, theaters & office bldgs. & Civic Center, lies in NW. sec. To W., along
Mo.-Kans. Line skirting Kansas R. bottoms, lie RRs., stockyards & plants of Central
Industrial Dist; & other industrial areas extend in great semicircle along banks of
Mo. R. (N) & city's outskirts (NE <& E). Bet downtown sec. & east-side industrial
dist, long swathe of middle-class streets runs (S) toward planned, well-landscaped
Country Club dist in SE. Other handsome residential areas, crossed by broad blvds.
& dotted with pks., lie on S. side. 1st settlement on site was est in 1821 when Amer.
Fur Co. agent, Francois Chouteau, opened trading post in Kansas R. bottoms,
removed in 1830 to foot of what is now Grand Ave. Here supplies were unloaded
from steamboats for hauling to town of Westport laid out in 1833 by storekeeper
John Alvin McCoy at ford across Big Blue R. 4 m SE.; Westport soon thrived as out-
fitting pt for overland travelers until cholera epidemic in 1849 ended its prosperity.
Westport Landing, as settlement around Chouteau's trading post had 1st been known,
was by this time prospering, town site having been platted by Kansas Town Co.,
"which, renamed place Kansas; here products brought by steamboats & traders fol-
lowing Santa Fe TrL were exchanged. Kansas too was hit by cholera epidemic, but
recovered. Town site was graded & filled & streets laid out Kansas City "Enterprise"
was founded in 1854.
By middle 1850*s Kansas City was already embroiled, however, in conflict bet. pro
& antislavery forces over settlement of Kans. & Neb. territories. It increasingly be-
came base for armed bands of Southerners who launched forays into Kans. to stuff
ballot boxes & terrorize Free-State settlers. Wnen conflict culminated in Civil War,
town suffered abrupt business decline. Here in 1863 after Confed. guerrilla leader
QuantrilTs band had sacked Lawrence, Union Gen. Thos. Ewing, Jr., published
famous Order No. 11, requiring all residents of Jackson, Bates & Cass Counties &
part of Vernon Cry. who could not prove Union sympathies & did not live within
mile of certain towns to vacate their lands. Following yr. Gen. Sterling Price's Con-
fed, forces were defeated in "3-day Battle of Westport, which virtually ended re-
bellion in Mo* Only with end of war did Kansas City resume growth. Completion of
1st RR. from St Louis, Mo. Pacific, in 1866 opened new era. RRs. soon were
bringing grain & cattle to market In 1870 Kansas City acquired its 1st stockyards &
soon afterward, its 1st packing houses. It began doing thriving business milling flour,
killing hogs & distributing agric. implements. In 1877, exchange bldg. for grain
trade was erected. By this time, both Kans. & Mo. RRs. had been bridged. In 1878,
Kansas City acquired a great new union RR. depot In 1900, William. Jennings
Bryan was nominated by the Democrats in Kansas City.
US 40 MISSOURI 615
It was in 1880 that city's greatest benefactor took over the local newspaper, the
"Kansas City Star": he was Wm. Rockhill Nelson. "Star" quickly became powerful
journal, & it campaigned continuously for civic improvements. Kansas City began
to lay out broad, tree-lined blvds. & handsome, landscaped residential areas. It
finally acquired philharmonic orchestra, university of its own, & one of country's
foremost art galleries. Since 1928, when new water supply system, one of country's
most modern, was completed, it has launched vast program of improvements in its
public bldgs., its M un. Airport, its streets & hys. & pks.
PTS. OF INT.: Kansas City's Civic Center bounded by llth, Oak, 12th & Locust
Sts., is dominated by (1) its $5,000,000 steel & Indiana limestone City Hall 425' sky-
scraper (1937), richly decorated, on whose 30th floor is observ. balcony, & (2) adj.
$4,000,000 Indiana limestone Kansas City Div. Jackson County Ctfa. (3) 13th &
Wyandotte Sts., $6,500,000 10-story-high Men. Auditorium (1936) contains arena
seating 13,500, music hall seating 2,600, little theater seating 600. Other pub. bldgs.
incl. (4) $3,300,000 Fed. Courts Bldg., 8th, Grand, 9th & McGehee Sts. & (5)
$4,500,000 Post Office Bldg., 315 W. Pershing Rd. (6) 2400 Main St., Union Sfeu
City's ... _
soldiers, housing mus. of war relics. (8) E. of mem. is Washington Sq., with equestrian
statue of Geo. Washington. (9) SE. is 131-a. Penn. Valley Pk. (swim.tennis), 26th St
& Broadway. (10) At edge of Kansas R. Bluffs, Lookout Ft, W. 10th & Summit Sts.,
with its broad stairway approach & terrace, affords far-reaching view of NW.
industrial dist, Kans. & Mo. Rs. & Mun. Airport. (11) N. & S. of it extends W. Ter-
race Pk. (12) Below, to W., are Kansas City livestock Exchange & Stockyards, 16th
& Genesee Sts., with as. of cattle pens. (13) 23rd St. is Amer. Royal Bidg. (1925),
in which is held annual Amer. Royal Livestock Show. (14) N. Terrace Pk., extending
more than 3 m along Mo. R. bluffs near city's N. edge, overlooks riverside industrial
dist., traversed by scenic Cliff Drive; within pk. are colonnaded Concoeise, Benton
Blvd. & St. John Ave., with its Thos. Hart Benton Mem., & Ind. Mound, Gladstone
& N. Belmont Blvd. (15) At pk.'s edge is Kansas City Mas. (est!939.O.wks.except
Mon.;Sun.aft.2-6), 3218 Gladstone Blvd., housed in Fr. Ren. mansion built by lum-
ber magnate R. A. Long, containing natural history, anthropological, hist. & other
exhibits.
SW. sec. contains many of the city's best known cultural institutions, among them
(16) Kansas City Conservatory of Music, 3500 Walnut, & (17) Kansas City Art
Institute, 4415 Warwick Blvd., sch. of fine & industrial arts. (18) Rockhill Rd. &
45th St., Wm. Rockhill Nelson Gallery of Art & Mary Atkins Mns. of Fine Arts
(O.wks.except Mon.;Sun.aft), nationally famous, occupies modern Class, building
on site of Wm. R. Nelson's home. Mus. has fine colls, of Oriental art & of bronze,
pottery & sculpture from Egypt, Greece & Rome. It celebrated 15th anniversary in
1948 by opening 2 new exhibition galleries for class, art & medieval art & series of
period rooms. Among painters represented are Bellini, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto,
Veronese, El Greco, Rembrandt, Velasquez, Gainsborough, Reynolds, Copley,
Goya & Van Gogh. (19) Rockhill Rd. & 51st St, Univ. of Kansas City, est in
1933 as 2-yr. liberal arts institution with enrollment of 264, had grown 15 yrs. later
into full-fledged univ. serving more than 5,500 students. It is housed in a group of
new bldgs., mostly of native stone in modified Fr. Ren. design, occupying 80-a. 9
landscaped Wm. Volker Campus. Lib. contains Rbt. M. Snyder Western Americana
coll. Adj. to campus is Linda Hall Lib., Cherry St S. of 51st St., containing notable
coll. in field of science. (20) One of largest mun. playgrounds in America, Swope
Pk. (pic.boatbath.golf.tennis.f.zoo), Swope Pky. & 63rd St., spreads over rugged,
forested hills & ravines. Scattered over grounds are pic. shelter houses, formally
landscaped gardens, playgrounds & athletic fields, music pavilion & lagoons. The
columned Swope Mem. is mausoleum of real estate magnate, Thos. Hunt Swope,
who donated pk. site. (21) At Prospect Ave. & 75th St. is Fairyland Amusement Pk.
(pic.swim.amusement zone). (22) At Wornall Rd. & 51st St is Jacob L. Loose Mem.
Pk. (pic.tennis.rose garden).
Near S. limits are Kansas City's chief hist landmarks. (23) On mon.-designated Site
of Battle of Westport, Meyer Blvd. at 63rd St, was fought Oct. 22-24, 1864, biggest
Civil War engagement W. of Miss. R., involving c.9,000 Confeds. under Gen. Ster-
ling Price & c.20,000 Feds, under Gen. Alfred S. Pleasanton. After desperate fight-
616 US 50 MISSOURI
ing, Confeds, were forced to retreat. The Battle ended organized Confed. resistance
W. of Miss. R. (24) 8145 State Line, Alex. Majors EL (1855), home of organizer of
firm shipping freight west before the RR/s arrival; the firm operated wagon
trains to Santa Fe, stagecoach line to Denver & Pony Express to Cal. (25) 4000
Baltimore Ave., Harris Home (1854), moved here in 1933 from orig. site, was built
by Col. John Harris, who ran Westport's 1st hotel.
US 50 MISSOURI
ST, LOUIS, MO. (W) to KANSAS CITY, MO. 280. US50
Via: Union, Jefferson City, Sedalia, & Warrensburg. RR. parallels entire route.
Accoms.: Plentiful.
In its course across central Mo., US50 bet. St. Louis & St. capital, Jefferson City,
skirts N. edge of Ozark hill country & bet. Jefferson City & Kansas City cuts across
grain- & livestock-raising prairie stretch.
Sec. 1: ST. LOUIS to JEFFERSON CITY. 130.
For pts. of int. & towns on or near US50 bet St. Louis & J. with St. 100, 43.5., see
St. Louis IH. At 46.5. is western J. with US66 (see). 52.5. UNION, seat of Franklin
Cty. since 1826, is small market town & manufactures shoes. 84.5. J. with St. 19.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Hermann, 18.5m, overlooking Mo. R., German- Amer.
settlement with characteristic appearance common to carefully laid-out German towns. Its
1st residents, sent out by German Settlement Soc. of Philadelphia, came here 1837. They
planted vineyards, undertook wine-making & developed R. commerce, organized dramatic,
choral & athletic societies & band. Among Hermann's chief landmarks are Eagle Hall
(c.1852), E. 2nd St. near Market St.; Concert Hall (1878), Front St. near Schiller St.;
StreMy EL (older part c.1845, addition came several years later), West 2nd St.; Cent-
ner H. (c.1850), Market St. near Front St. W. edge of town, Stone Hill Farms, turreted,
thick-walled former winery, is now devoted to growing mushrooms.
118.5. US50 bridges OSAGE R, 130. JEFFERSON CITY, capital of Mo., borders
Mo. R., spreading over steep bluffs. Although St. gov. is its chief concern, it is also
central Mo.'s largest city, with bustling bus. dist & riverside fringe of factories &
RR, shops. When site was chosen for St. capital In 1821, it was little more than R.
landing, which its handful of settlers had named for Thos. Jefferson. 2-story brick
Stateh. was completed in 1826, by which time community had acquired gristmill,
distillery, tanneries. St. penitentiary was completed in 1836 & new & more lavish
St Capitol in 1842, replacing 1st, destroyed by fire. During 1840*s pop. was swelled
by German immigrants. When pro-Secessionist Gov. Claiborne F. Jackson defied
decision to remain in Union of St. convention called in 1861 & led the militia
away to Boonville to join Confed. cause, capital was occupied by Fed. troops. In-
dustrial progress was resumed hi 1880's, when printing & shoe manufacture became
important.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Rising from R. bluffs, N. High St bet Washington St. & Broad-
way, St Capital (1917) is Ital. Ren. marble structure some four stories high
with retreating 5th story, adorned with Corinthian porticoes, from top of whose
lantern-surmounted dome, 262' above ground, rises bronze statue of Ceres. Flank-
ing approach to main entrance are 2 fountains by Rbt. I. Aitken, & within, at base
of grand stairway, same sculptor's symbolic figures of Mo. & Miss. Rs. Jas. E.
Frazer's bronze Thos. Jefferson dominates stairway. Marble-finished rotunda, 68'
high, has murals at each floor. On main fl., at east end, is Soldiers* & Sailors' Mus.,
containing battle flags & Govs.* portraits, & at W. end, Mo. Resources Mus, con-
taining Ind. relics & agric., commercial & mineral exhibits. On 3rd fl., which has
James E. Frazer's bronze statues of Meriwether Lewis & Wm. Clark, are chambers
& lounges of Senate (R) & House of Representatives (L); lounge of latter contains
murals by Thos. Hart Benton which provoked sharp controversy during mid-1 930 T s.
5ih L affords exit to gallery & dome. (2) Capitol & Madison Sts., Executive Mansion
(I871.Fr.ItaL) is a handsome structure with portico & porte-cochere. Other official
bldgs. incL (3) Supreme Ct BIdg. (1907), High & Washington Sts.; (4) New St.
Office BIdg. (1938), Broadway & High St, & (5) Mo. St Penitentiary, Lafayette &
State Sts. (6) Lafayette, Chestnut, Dunklin & Franklin Sts., Lincoln Univ., St-
supported institution for Negroes with landscaped 20-a. campus at city's highest
US 60 MISSOURI 617
elevation, was founded on Initiative of soldiers of 62nd U.S. Colored Infantry, &
opened in 1866.
SIDE TRIP: Take US54 (L) from Jefferson City into N. Ozark foothills. Eldon, 31.5m
laid out in 1882, depends on farm trade, RR. shops & sm. industries. US54 cont. to half-
mile-long, 148' high Bagnell Dam, crossed by hy. at 43.5m, impounding 67 3 -billion-gallon,
129m-long L. of the Ozarks. Dam, built 1929-31, has 520' spillway controlled by 12 flood-
gates; it houses Mo.'s biggest hydroelectric plant L.'s 1,300m shoreline is lined with resorts,
offering boat., f., & other recr. facils. Camdenton, 64m } seat of Carnden Cty., was founded
?n 1929. At 67m i s J. with unimproved Rd.
Turn (L) on this 3.5m to 3,500-a. Hahatonka Estate of Kansas City's wealthy R. M.
Snyder, surrounding his hill-top Eng. Ren. house, Hahatonfca Casfle (1905-22.fee.
lodging). On grounds are natural bridge, one of Mo.'s larger springs, village, 5-story
tower &. carriage house.
At 93m is J. with US65 (see).
Sec. 2: JEFFERSON CITY to KANSAS CITY. 150.
US50 heads into far-reaching prairie farming sec. 23. CALIFORNIA dates from
1854. Moniteau County Cth. (1867.Gr.Rev.) is one of Mo.'s more notable early
public bldgs. 62. SEDALIA began as RR. center, 1857, & depends today on RR.
repair shops. Its orig. promoter, Geo. R. Smith, one of Pac, RR.'s board of directors,
coined name from his daughter Sarah's nickname, "Sed." Modern industries incl.
shoe manufacture & food processing. Mo. St. Fairgrounds, with more than 50
permanent structures scattered over 300 as., is site annually (Aug.) of exhibit of
Mo.'s products, harness races & other events. Sedalia is at J. with US65 (see). At
82,5. is entrance to wooded MONTSERRAT RECR. AREA (3,441 as.pic.). 91.
WARRENSBURG was named for Kentucky Rev. War veteran Martin Warren, who
sett it, 1833. Its chief growth followed advent of Pac. RR. in 1864. Central Mo. St
Teachers College (est.1871), South & Taylor Sts., is housed in group of Eng. Ren.
style handsome bldgs. Bronze plaque at entrance to Old Cth., Main St. S. of W. Gay
St., recalls that here on Sept 23, 1870, George Graham Vest declaimed his "Eulogy
of the Dog." 129.5. LEES SUMMIT, platted in 1865 on one of highest pts. bet
St. Louis & Kansas City. First settlement was named Lees by railroad men when
they set up station, in remembrance of Dr. Pleasant Lea, who fell afoul of un-
known assassins here during Civil War. 132. UNITY FARM, of Unity Sch. of
Christianity, contains in addition to gardens, vineyards orchards, a lofty bldg. in
form of a tower & other bldgs. of Ital. Ren. type, swim, pool & L. amphitheater,
& oil & gaa wells. 150. KANSAS CITY (see US40) is at Js. with US40 (see) & US50
(see).
US 60 MISSOURI
MO.-ELL. ONE (3.5 m from Cairo, HI.) (W) to MO.-OKLA. LINE (41^ from
Vinita, Okla.). 367. US60
Via: Charleston, Sikeston, Poplar Bluff, Springfield & Neosho. RRs. parallel entire
route. Accoms.: Chiefly in larger towns r limited elsewhere.
US60 cuts across fertile Miss. R. alluvial plain, Mo.'s cotton belt, & then through,
forested, hilly Ozark country, thinly settled. In SW. sec. it traverses fruit-growing &
dairying reg. around Springfield & Tri-State lead & zinc mining area.
Sec. 1: MO.-ELL. LINE to SPRINGFIELD. 277.
0. US60 crosses Miss. R., which is MO.-ILL. LINE, on $3,100,000 bridge (toll).
Route follows (SW) top of levee bordering NEW MADRID FLOOD WAY, an over-
flow basin. 6.5. WYATT. J. with Cty.E.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with Cty.U, llm, & turn (L) here to Belmont Battlefield,
17m } designated by mon. where on Nov. 6, 1861, 4,000 Feds. led by Gen. U. S. Grant,
shipped downstream from Cairo, debarked to attack Confed. encampment.
12.5. CHARLESTON, laid out 1837, developed as trading & shipping pt for
cotton planters, which it remains, & more recently has become shoe mfg. center.
26.5. SIKESTON is prosperous cotton-reg. community, dating back to I860, with
cotton gins & compresses, RR. loading platforms & grain elevators, and ornate
post-Civil War mansions of plantation owners. Sikeston is at J. with US61 (see). 50.5-
DEXTER, platted in 1873 on summit of Crowley's Ridge, is at inters, of 2 RRs.;
among its products are flour & cotton, poultry & shirts. 77.5. POPLAR BLUFF.
gig US 60 MISSOUM
so named for poplar-shaded height overlooking Black R., on which it was laid out
in 1850, is RR. division point with timberwork plants, shoe factories, produce
houses & other industrial establishments. It was important lumber center until
reg.'s timber supply fell off; discovery of near-by clay deposits contributed to later
growth Today it is chief trading center for 20 cities in SE. Mo. & NE. Ark. Poplar
Bluff is at L with US6? (see), with which US60 unites for 0.5
US60 now enters forested, roiling Ozarks, where in clearings appear rude cabins
& frame Chs. of descendants of 1st settlers, mostly of Scotch-Irish extraction from
Kentucky. 120.5. J. with St21 (See US61). 128.5. VAN BUREN, seat since 1859 of
Carter Cty., is recr. center on Current R., at J. with St.103 leading (L) 3.5^ to Big
Spring St Pk* (cabins-bathUod^^
& MOUNTAIN VIEW, 169.5., are mt settlements, chiefly dependent on lumbering.
187.5. WILLOW SPRINGS has, in addition to sawmills, produce houses handling
eggs, poultry & dairy products. 188. Hqs. for Rangers of MARK TWAIN NAT. FOR.,
210.5. US60 now cuts through fruit orchards & pastures into one of most productive
dairying regs in U.S. It also grows more fruit, berries & tomatoes than any other
part of Mo. 268. J. with US65 (see) with which US60 unites to Springfield. 270.
SEQUIOTA FISH HATCHERY propagates bass & bluegffl in its rearing ponds
& spring-fed L., back of which is lighted cave through which boat trips may be
made (sm.fee). 273. SPRINGFIELD NAT. CEMETERY (est. 1869) holds graves of
Civil War dead, both Fed. & Confed., buried in separate plots with conn, gateway;
to open gateway, bill had to be introduced in Congress.
277. SPRINGFIELB
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C. f Walnut St & Jefferson Ave. Swim, at Grant
Beach, Fassnight Pk., Silver Springs Pk., Doling L. Annual Rodeo, May; Ozark Empire
Fair, Sept.
SW. Mo/s chief city, one of state's largest, Springfield spreads over rolling plateau
at N. gateway to Ozark Highlands. Its prosperity is based on its RR. shops, largest
W. of Miss. R., & on industries processing dairy & poultry products, livestock &
grain & lumber of vie.; it has U.S.' largest milk plant & plants mfg. harness, overalls,
wagons & triers. It has mun. owned public utilities & nationally known public sch.
system.
All but 1 of 1st permanent white settlers on site, who began arriving in 1821, aban-
doned area when Delaware & Kickapoo Inds. were moved by Fed. Gov. to SW.
Mo.; & only when Inds. were moved on farther W. did more white settlers come.
Around claim staked near spring by John Polk Campbell grew settlement; & in
1833, Campbell's log cabin became cty. seat. After 1850, when livestock raising
in vie. began to develop, Springfield, because of location at crossing of chief
Rds. through SW. Mo., rose to commercial dominance. It became focal pt in
Civil War; Confed. forces took & stayed until expelled in 1862 by Fed. troops.
Advent of Atlantic & Pac. (now Frisco) RR. in 1870 led to est. by land speculators
of rival community, N. Springfield; in 1881, however, another RR. was run
through older community, & in 1887 two towns were consolidated into one.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) City's oldest bldg., John Polk Campbell H. (1851), 975 Mary
Ave., was built by its founder. (2) E. Benton Ave. bet. Calhoun & Central Sts.,
I>nuy College (est. 1873), is coed, institution named for early benefactor, Sam.
Fletcher Drury. (3) National Ave. bet Grand & Madison Sts., SW. Mo. St.
Teacfaers* College (est. 1905) is 4-year coed, institution. (4) Doling Pk. (boatbath.
playgrounds) contains l,000'-long limestone cavern & spring-fed L. (5) N. Grant
St & Norton Rd., Central Bible Institute is training sch. maintained by Assemblies
of God. (6) In City Hall, is Springfield Art Mus. (0); coll. painting, prints & hist
matter. Springfield is at J. with US66 (see).
Sec* 2: SPRINGFIELB to M0.-0KLA. LINE* 90.
2. UJS. DEFT. OF JUSTICE MEDICAL CENTER (1933), housed in U-shaped
group of brick bldgs., is prison hospital for criminally insane. i3. REPUBLIC,
fruit- & vegetable-shipping pt, is at J. with local Rd.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) 4m J. with Rd.; (L) on this & (L) again at 4.5m to dirt Rd. (pri-
vate), 5V & (L) on this to Wilson's Creek Battlefield, 5.5m, where on Aug. 10, 1861 was
US 66 MISSOURI 619
fought one of Mo.'s chief Civil War engagements, with nearly 2,500 casualties, after which
Confeds. then took Springfield.
33. AURORA, laid out in 1872, experienced lead & zinc mining boom in
1880's & afterward turned to trade with farmers & sm. mfg. enterprises. 47.5.
MONETT, dating from advent of RR. in 1881, is R.R. division pt. & chief ship-
ping center in widespread strawberry-growing, dairying & poultry-raising, &
diversified farming reg.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.37 (L) from Monett to Cassvffle, 18.5m, fishermen's outfitting pt. &
farmers' shipping center. Here on Nov. 7, 1~861, fleeing pro-Confed. members of Mo.'s
general assembly signed ordinances of secession from U.S. Cassville & Exeter RR., 4.8***
long, is shortest broad-gauge line in country; it freights farm produce. Route turns (L) from
Cassville on St.112 to Roaring R. St Pk. (hotel.lodge.cabins.camp. bridle trls. swim.boat.f.
pic.), 7m, wooded 2,946-a. area in mt.-rimmed valley, whose chief feature is spring-fed
Roaring R. (good trout t).
66. GRANBY, SW. Mo.'s 1st lead & zinc mining center, now depends chiefly on
farm trade. 75. NEOSHO, christened with Osage Ind. name for clear water in
reference to spring around which it grew, was laid out in 1839. It had become
lead mining center by 1850. After Civil War, Neosho prospered as flour milling
& dairy produce processing center. In vie., 2.5 m away (L), is Camp Crowder,
important U.S. Army training base during World War II. Neosho is at J. with
US71 (see).89.5. SENECA, laid out in 1868, is dominated by its Barnsdatt Tripoli
Grinding Mill Plant, which processes U.S.* only important tripoli deposits. Tripoli
is used as filter stone for water system & also in rubber manufacture. 9(K MO.-
OKLA. LINE.
US 66 MISSOURI
ST. LOUSS, MO. (SW) to MO.-KANS. LINE (l m from Galena, Kans.). 314. US66
Via: Rolla, Lebanon, Springfield, Carthage & Joplin. RR. parallels route throughout.
Usual accoms.; hotels in larger towns.
US66, cutting diagonally across S. Mo., traverses rolling, mostly wooded Ozark
hill country. In SW. sec. it crosses important lead & zinc mining area.
Sec. 1: ST. LOUIS to SPRINGFIELD. 233.
For pts. of int. & towns on or near US66 & J. with US50, at 38., see St. Louis
Trip m. US66 unites with US50 for 6.5 m & SW. of ST. CLAffi, 53., sett, in
1843, US66 heads into Ozark foothills. 64^ STANTON. J. with local RcL, lead-
ing (L) 4 m to Meramec Caverns (fee.guides) above Meramec R., 1st of whose
chambers contains parking space for automobiles & dance fl. Among natural
formations within are Natural Stage, Wine Table & Echo Room. 69.5. J. with
Stll4, leading (L) l m to 7,153-a. wooded Meramec St Pk. (hotel.cabins.trlr.
camp.pic.horses), Mo.'s largest St. pk., stretching along Meramec R. It has many
springs & more than 20 large caves, nature mus. & St. nursery. 70. SULLIVAN,
rural center & shoe mfg. town, dates from 1856. 81. J. with Cty.H.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) 2.5m to Cathedral Cave (fee.guides), containing interesting
formations. At 7m are Mo. Caverns (fee.guides), winding 200' to the underground Lost R.
whose rock formations are colored in variety of hues. Entrance to Onondaga Cave (fee.
guides), 7.5m, is by boat along Lost R.
89. CUBA, farmers* shipping pt, is at J. with Stl9.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) into rough, remote Ozark mt area. SteelvfHe, 9m, is trading
center for farmers & outfitting pt. for fishermen, sett. 1833. IndL TrL St. Pk. (no accoms.),
31m, is game & for. preserve of more than 13,000 as. 44.5m Salem, est. in 1851, prospered
following opening of iron deposits in vie. soon after Civil War. At 50m is J. with Cty.K.
Turn (R) on this to J. with CtyJE, 5m, & (R) on this to J. with St.119, llm; (L) on St.119
to 758-a. wooded, mountainous Montank St Pk* (hotel.cottages.camp.pic.), 16m, sur-
rounding spring with 40,000,000-gallon daily capacity.
St.19 bridges at 75.5m Current R., fast-running stream (good f.). Short distance beyond is
Round Spring St. Pk. (camp.piaf.), 75-a. tract surrounding spring with tremendous daily
flow. The spring rises in natural rock bowl & overflows beneath natural rock bridge.
88.5m, Eminence is starting place for fishermen's expeditions down Current R., at J. with
Stl06.
Take latter (R) to 407-a. Alley Spring St. Pk. (cabins, camp.pic.f.swim.),
St.19 cont. to J. with US60 (see) at 99.5m.
102. ST. JAMES, founded in 1859, ships farm products & lumber.
620 US 66 MISSOURI
SIDE TRIP: Take St.68 (L) at this point to J. with St8, 4.5m & turn (L) on this to
Meramec Springs, 7.5m, with av. daily flow of more than 96,000,000 gallons. Near-by
is Site of Meramec Iron Works, marked by one of orig. open-hearth furnaces. This, Mo.'s
1st iron furnace, was est. in 1826, utilizing ore mined near-by.
112. ROLLA, founded in 1855 by St. Louis-S.F. RR. construction men, was
named for home town of one of them, Raleigh, N.C., using his phonetic spelling.
It became important outfitting pt for settlers in Ozarks & fortified stronghold
of Union Army during Civil War. Housed in doz. brick & stone bldgs. on 30-a,
tree-shaded campus, Univ. of Mo. Sch. of Mines & Metallurgy, 12th & Pine Sts.,
is nationally outstanding. Mineral Mus., Norwood Hall, has best mineral coll. in
Mo. US66 now climbs into wooded, rugged Ozark highlands. 140. J. with St. 17,
leading (L) 10 m to Ft Leonard Wood, U.S. Army training area during World
War II. 143. WAYNESVILLE is trading center for hill country folk. 176. LEBA-
NON dates from 1849. Harold Bell Wright, popular novelist, began writing when
he was First Cfa. minister here.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.64 (R) from Lebanon to J. with Rd. llm, & turn (L) on this to 730-a.
Bennett Spring St Pk. (cabins.dining lodge.camp.pic.trlrs.f.boat.swim.riding), 12m, O n
Niangua R. (rainbow trout fish.). Bennett Spring has av. daily flow of 71,000,000 gallons.
Near milldam. on spring branch is Bennett's Mill.
206. MARSHFIELD, 1st sett in 1830's, ships farm products. 233. SPRING-
FIELD (see US60) is at J. with US60 (see) & US65 (see).
Sec. 2: SPRINGFIELD to MO.-KANS. LINE. 81.
15.5. J. with Cty.F.
SIDE IHIP: Take latter (R) to rural trading center of Ash Grore, 9 m , sett, by Dan. Boone's
youngest son. (R) from Ash Grove on Cty.V 2m is log, clap-boarded Nathan Boone H.
(1837).
58. CARTHAGE, founded in 1842, is trading & mfg. center. Carthage marble is
one of its best-known products; others are automobile parts & springs, clothing,
flour & dairy products. During Civil War, when it was center of border warfare, 13
engagements took place here, & town was completely destroyed in 1864. Famous
woman outlaw Belle Starr, who joined Confed. guerrilla leader QuantriH's bush-
whackers, was one of its more colorful residents. US66 at 7th St., Mun. Pk. (160 as.
swim.golf.athletic fields.pic.), is city's largest. E. Chestnut & River Sts., Tourist Pk.
covers part of Site of Battle of Carthage, fought July 5, 1861. Carthage is at J.
with US71 (see), which unites with US66 to Joplin. US66 is bordered with empty
mine workings from CARTERVILLE, 67., to WEBB CITY, 68., est in 1875
when Mo.'s biggest mining boom began, 2 yrs. after farmer John C. Webb's dis-
covery of lead while plowing. Boom was spurred on by subsequent discovery of
zinc. Although decline of mining later turned neighboring settlements into ghost
towns, Webb City has built up trade with farmers & acquired garment factories &
other industrial plants.
75. JOPLIN, chief center of Tri-State lead & zinc mining area, stands above aban-
doned shafts & is surrounded by mines, ore piles & processing plants. It has balanced
its economy with farm trade & variety of industries. First settlers, John C. Cox &
Rev. Harris G. Joplin, arrived before 1840; & soon other pioneers arrived and for
them Joplin began to conduct his ch. services. By 1850, 1st lead diggings had been
opened near-by by David Campbell & Wm. Tingle. When rich strikes were made
along Joplin Cr., townsites were laid out on each bank on W., Murphysburg; on
E., Joplin City, whose founder was pioneer settler John Cox; rivalry bet. 2 com-
munities ended only when they were united as 1 town by legislative act in 1873.
By 1890 Joplin was roaring, overgrown town with wildly inflated economy, in
which lead & zinc served instead of money for currency. By 1900, however, it was
quieting down.
PTS. OF INT.: Perkins St at Maiden Lane, Eagle-Picher Lead Co. Plant, on
"Smelter Hill," owned by dominating corporate enterprise in Tri-State area, began
with est in 1874 by O. H. & W. H. Picher of lead furnaces; Joplin plant produces
lead oxide, rock wool & miscellaneous metal goods & alloys. Range Line Rd. to
Florida Ave., Joplia Stockyards handle livestock from Ark., Kans. & Okla., as well
as from Mo.: Main, Virginia, 12th & 13th Sts., Mun. Market handles fruits & vege-
tables from same area. 7th St & Schifferdecker Ave., wooded Schifferdecker Pk.
(160 as.zoo.golfxhibh.) contains Mineral Mus. with exhibits from Tri-State area.
US 61 MISSOURI 621
S. of town, Shoal Civ Pkwy. (pic.swim.) is 220-a. landscaped area along scenic,
winding creek bottom. Joplin is at southern J. with US71 (see). 81. MO.-KANS.
LINE.
US 61 MISSOURI
MO.-IOWA LINE (2 from Keokuk, Iowa) (S) to MQ.-AKK, LINE (6 from
Blytheville, Ark.). 412. US61
Via: Canton, Hannibal, Bowling Green, Kirkwood, (St Louis), Farmington, Jackson,
(Cape Girardeau) & Sikeston. RRs. parallel parts of route. Accorns.: Plentiful.
US61, following Miss. R., traverses in its N. sec. pleasantly fertile Mark Twain
river country, & in its S. sec. a more rugged region orig. sett by Fr. & Germans,
& Mo.'s cotton-growing SE. corner.
Sec. 1: MO.-IOWA LINE to KffiKWOOD. 173.
0. MO.-IOWA LINE. 26.5. CANTON, spilling over Miss, bluffs, was founded in
1830. Culver-Stockton College (chartered 1853), W. side of town, was 1st college
of region chartered as coed, institution. 51.5. PALMYRA, laid out in 1819, was
sett, largely by Southerners. Palmyra Massacre Mon. (1907), at cty. cth., comm.
execution here in Oct. 1861 of 10 Confed. hostages. Greenwood-Palmyra Cemetery
to the north of town, Grave of Wm. H. Russell, pres. of Central Overland Cal. &
Pike's Peak Express Co., which inaugurated Pony Express. First Metfa. Cfa. (to
1820's) was site of ministers' convention in 1866 which reest Meth. Episc. Ch, in
Civil War's wrecked area. 55. J. with US24.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Monroe City, 17.5m, agricultural center, laid out in 1857.
At 27m is J. with St.107.
Turn (L) on this to Florida, 6.5m, birthpl. in 1835 & for his 1st 4 yrs. home of Sam.
Langhorne Clemens, who is comm. by Mark Twain Mom, center of town. At 7m is
Mark Twain St. Pk. (camp.pic.bath.f. riding), 1,185-a. rough-&-tumble tract along S.
fork of Salt R. Here is Mark Twain's Birthpl., 2-room frame house moved here from
orig. site in Florida, now maintained as mus., with bed in which Twain was born, his
carriage & other early furnishings.
US24 cont. (W) to Paris, 39m, laid out in 1831. Paris Mercury BIdg., Caldwell St. W. of
Main St., is home of newspaper published since 1837, one of first in the state. Covered
Bridge (1857), not far from the Cth., is one of 3 in vie.
At 63. is J. with US36, leading (L) 1.5 m to Hannibal, boyhood home of Mark Twain,
who described it as a sleepy little Mississippi River town, now a bustling in-
dustrial city of RR. shops & factories. Hannibal, platted in 1812, acquired lumber
& grist mills, tobacco factories & pork-packing plant, & grew into recognized R.
port. During 1850*s it became terminus of Hannibal & St Joseph RR., whose shops
were built here. Mo.'s 2nd bridge across Miss. R. was constructed here in 1871; its
1st mun. owned light & power plant, in 1886.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 206-208 Hill St., Mark Twain Mas. & H., 2-story adj. bldgs.,
contain Twain relics & early furnishings; house was built by author's father, John
Marshall Clemens, (2) 211 Hill St., "Becky TMtciier" H., was for time home of
Twain's boyhood sweetheart, Laura Hawkins, prototype of his character, Becky
Thatcher. (3) 315 N. Main St, Joseph P. Ament Printing Office. On 2nd fl. young
Sam Clemens began, in 1848, 2-yr. apprenticeship as printer's devil. (4) At base of
"Cardiff" Hill where prototypes of Tom Sawyer, Huck Finn & their friends played
is bronze Tom Sawyer & Huck Finn Statue (1926 by Fred. S. Hibbard). (5) N. end
of Main St rises 54' Mark Twain Mem. Lighth., dedicated in 1935 on centennial of
Twain's birth. (6) At opp. end of Main St. rises 230' Lovers* Leap, where in 1844
white-gowned Millerites, disciples of Wm. Miller, assembled to ascend to Heaven
in expectation of end of world. (7) Mark Twain Ave., Riverview Pk., tract of more
than 200 as. with winding drives through wooded dells & along picturesque crests,
contains Mark Twain Statue, rising from Inspiration Pt 300' above Miss. S. Main
St leads (R) from Hannibal 2 m to Mark Twain Cave (guides), labyrinthine limestone
cavern described in "Adventures of Tom Sawyer," in which Tom & Becky Thatcher
were lost.
72.5. NEW LONDON, founded in 1819, is RaHs County Cftu (1858.Gr.Rev.), one
of Mo.'s handsomest old buildings. 92.5. J. with US54.
622 US 61 MISSOURI
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to Stark Bros. Nursery, 9.5m, one of nation's largest nurseries
& probably its oldest, est by Jas. Stark in 1816. 11.5m Louisiana, once an important ship-
ping center, but now a market town, dates back to 1818.
93. BOWLING GREEN, laid out in 1826, is seat of Pike Cty.; in Gold Rush, Cal.
term "Piker," orig. applying to Missourians from this cty., came finally to have
present broader application. Near cth. is bronze Champ Clark Statue (by Fred.
C. Hibbard), comm. Jas. Beauchamp Clark, long member from this dist. of H. of
Representatives & for 8 yrs. speaker, whose white frame H., Honey Shack, College
St., remains. Opposite latter is John Walter Bayse H. (oldest part 1829).
125. J. with St.47, leading (L) 5.5 m to 5,802-a. timbered Cuivre R. St. Pk. (pic.swim.
boat). 140. J. with US40 (see), with which US61 unites for 29 m . For towns & pts.
of Int. on or near US61 bet this J. & KMKWOOD, 173., see St. Louis Trip I.
Sec. 2: KIRKWO0D to MO.-ARK. LINE. 239.
For towns & pts. of int. on or near US61 bet. Kirkwood & CRYSTAL CITY, 30.,
IncL latter, see St. Louis Trip IV.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.21A (R) from Crystal City short distance to Festas, laid out, 1878,
providing trading facils. & residential areas which its factory-dominated neighbor, Crystal
City, lacks. 12.5m Be Soto, whose many artesian wells have inspired sobriquet "Fountain
City," was est. in 1857 with advent of RR. & became center of lead reg. 22.5m is 1,101-a.
hardwood-timbered WasMngton St. Pk. (cabms.Iodge.pic.nature mus.), one of whose chief
attractions is group of Ind. petroglyphs carved on stone hillside. St.21 cont through area
where Fr. settlers began to work lead deposits before 1750 V At Old Mines, 31.5m, where
lead and barite ore have been scraped from shallow pits since Fr. families sett here in
1802, is St. Joachim's Ch. (c.1830). St. Joachim's Cemetery has hand-wrought iron
crosses and unusual stone monuments. 38.5m Potosi began as Mine a Breton, so named for
Francois Azor, nicknamed Breton, who discovered lead on site in 1773. Moses Austin
acquired land here in 1797 & built more efficient furnaces, new in the region, along with
other installations & a large mansion & a general country store, etc. Town was laid out in
1813 & named for Mexican silver-mining center, San Luis Potosi. Today most of Mo.'s
output of barite, comprising from third to half of nat production, comes from this vie.
In Potosfs Presb. cemetery is Grave of Moses Austin, Mo.'s 1st industrialist & 1st pro-
moter of Amer. colonization of Texas. St.21 cont. to J. with Cty.W, 63.5m.
(L) on this 4m is ghost rnining town of Iron Mt., near hump-shaped mt. orig. believed to
be solid iron, where ore deposits were worked from 1836 until 1880's.
St.21 cont to Pilot Knob, 66m, another ghost mining town at foot of another mountain
believed to be solid iron. At 66.5 m appear earthworks of ruined Ft. Davidson, built by
Union forces to protect Iron Mt & Pilot mines. 68.5m Ironton, founded in 1857, was U.S.
Grant's hqs. in Aug. 1861. Iron County Cth. (1858.Class.Rev.) was occupied by Feds,
retreating from Ft. Davidson. St21 cont. into rugged Ozark mt. country. 77.5m Hogan,
at J. with unpaved Rd.
(R) on this 6m to footpath leading to summit of Tarn Sank Mt (1,772'), 12m, Mo.'s
highest peak, which halfway up skirts 200' Mina Sauk Falls.
At 133.5m is J. with US60 (see).
31.J.withSt.25.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L). At 4.5m is J. with Rd.
(L) on this 0.5m to large, imposing Selma Hall (1854.N.O.), $125,000 mansion in
Ital. Ren. style, Mo.'s finest of its period, built for steamboat operator Ferdinand
Kennett
S. of village of Bloomsdale, 20m, dominated by spire of Romanes. St. PMIomena Ch., lies
hilly., pastoral reg, 1st sett, by Creole Fr. Ste. Genevieve, 31m r is Mo.'s oldest extant set-
tlement. Today rural trading & marble-shipping & lime-producing center, it has outer
ring of modem-looking avenues & bldgs.; but old town at its heart remains picturesquely
Fr. First settlers, arriving probably in 1740's, to take up farming, fur trading, salt making
& lead mining, were forced by floods to move c.1785 to higher land. As R. port, place
early in 19th cent, rivalled St. Louis, but lost out with decline of fur, salt & lead industries.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) In center of Du Bourg PI. is Hist Mas. housing hist. & archaeological
relics. (2) Du Bourg PL is dominated by Ste. Genevieve Ch. (1880.1ate 19th cent. Goth)
3rd religious edifice on site; earliest surviving Missouri church. Also on Du Bourg PI
are: (3) Sisters of St Joseph Convent (1867) & (4) John Price H. (1800-04). (5) 4th & Mer-
chant Sts., Jacques Dubreml GoMwurd H. (c.1800) is typical of Creole residences of its
period: stpry-&-a-half structure of weatherboarded trimmed logs, the whole surmounted by a
roof sloping to "galeries" at front & rear. Others of similar design are: (6) 20 S. Main St.,
^^$ St Gemme de Beauvais H. (before 1791); (7) Main & Market Sts., Jean Baptiste
VaHe H. (c.1785); (8) 123 S. Main St, Bolduc BL (elate 18th cent.); (9) Old St. Mary's Rd
Misplait H. (before 1804); & (10) 244 Old St. Mary's Rd., Green free Tavern (1791) (11)
Merchant St W. of 2nd St., Senator Lewis F. Linn H. (1827) & (12) Merchant & 2nd Sts.,
US 61 MISSOURI 623
Dr. Benjamin Shaw H. (probably before 1820) are frame dwellings showing Amer. influence
in design. (13) Main St. bet. Market & Gabouri Sts., Mellleer H. (c.1815), is also frame
dwelling of later type than Creole "maisons de poteaux sur sol." Of stone are (14) 2nd &
Merchant Sts., Pfeiiipson-Valle H. (1811-14) & (15) 5th & Washington Sts., Louisiana
Academy Bldg. (c.1810); latter housed sch. for poor white & Ind. children at which, after
1818, 1st Christian Brothers in U.S. were teachers. (16) 5th & 6th Sts., Old Cemetery con-
tains many pioneer graves.
At 38.5m is J. with Ozora Rd. leading (R) short distance to Salt Springs, where Fr. resi-
dents of Kaskaskia were wont to come to make salt, earl 18th cent. Here developed 1st
white settlement in Mo. 53.5m is J. with St.51.
Take latter (R) to Penyville, 0.5m, se at since 1822 of Perry Cty. At 1m is J. with Cty. T,
leading (R) 0.5m to Cath. seminary of St Maxy's-of-the-Barrens (est.1818), on 640-a.
wooded tract, with Lib. containing ancient mss. & illuminated books & log cabin
known as Bishop Rosati's Sacristy (1818). Ou of the Assumption (1827-37.alteration
made 1913) reproduces on scale one-third that of orig. Ch. of Monte Citorio in Rome.
At 65^ is J. of St.25 with Cty .A.
Take latter (L) to Altenborg, 9m, picturesque village of attractive houses & gardens,
sett, as communal religious colony by Luth. emigrants from Saxony in 1839. Log
First Home of Concordia Seminary (1839), which housed 1st educational institution con-
ducted by Evangelical Luth. Synod of Mo., is now mus. of hist, relics.
St.25 cont. to J. with US61 at Jackson (see below), 85m.
S. of BIG RIVER; 53.5., US61 cuts through world's biggest lead producing area.
56.5. J. with CtyJ, leading (R) l m to Bonne Terre (Fr. "good earth"), oldest of reg.'s
lead-mining towns, now up-to-date community surrounded by mine shafts. St
Joseph Lead Co. Office Bldg., Main & Allen Sts., is hqs. of dist's biggest producer,
which began operations in 1864. 62. J. with St.32, leading (R) 3.5 m to Flat River,
rowdy lead miners' boom town in 1890's but now spruce, modern-looking com-
munity, dubbed "lead capital of the world." 69. FARMINGTON, seat since 1821 of
St. Francois Cty., is trading center of an area 1st known as Murphy Settlement for
leading family, one of whom is said to have built Tom V. Brown H. (O.appl.
c.l 800), Murphy Ave. & Washington St. In Masonic Cemetery, Henry St., stone
shaft marks former location of log church, Site of First Sunday School in the state,
taught by Sarah Barton Murphy. W. Columbia & S. Franklin Sts., Farmington's
Community Mus,, in Long Mem. Hall, has coll. of pioneer relics. Declining vU-
lage of Mine La Motte, 83.5. was site of 1st lead diggings in Mo., opened by La.'s
Gov. Gen., Sieur Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, in 1715, At 86.5. US67 (see), united
with US61 from outskirts of St. Louis to this pt, diverges (S). 127. JACKSON,
platted in 1814, is rural trading & milling center. 128. J, with McKendree Chapel
Rd., leading (L) to weatherboarded log McKendree Chapel (c.!819.rest), 2.5 m , Mo.'s
oldest existing Prot church bldg.
135. J. with US61Alt, leading (L) to CAPE GIRARDEAU, 2, spilling over bluffs
by Miss. R. When Don Louis Lorimier came here c.1793 to est. Ind. trading post,
place was already known by present name for Fr. army ensign, Girardot, who had
settled early in 18th cent, on Cape Rock, jutting into R. near today's N. city limits.
Lorimier encouraged Amer. immigration by offering tree land; but after La. Pur-
chase, rejection of his title to tract by U.S. Land Commission, which ^invalidated
titles of other landholders, stopped growth of community. In 1836 his title was
finally recognized & Cape Girardeau soon became thriving R. port, with lumber
& grist mills & pork-packing houses. Civil War ended R. traffic, however, & Cape
Girardeau's development was again delayed until RR. conns, were est. In recent yrs.
revival of R. traffic, reclamation of new farm lands to S. & building of bridge across
Miss. (1928) have spurred development.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) William & Spanish Sts., boulder inset with bronze plates desig-
nates Site of Lonis Lorimier's Red H. (2) Fountain St. & Washington Ave., in Lori-
mier Cemetery is Grave of Louis Lorimier. (3) Spanish & Themis Sts., Court of
Common Pleas Bldg. (Greek Rev. oldest part 1854, N. & S. wings 1889). (4) Main
& Williams St., St Vincent's Ch. (1851.Goth.Rev.). (5) 201 Morgan Oak St., St
Vincent's College (oldest part 1843.adds.1863 & 1871), founded as St Vincent's
Academy in 1838. Of Greek Rev. design are (6) Wateen-Ranney H. (1839), 501 N.
Main St., & (7) 444 Washington Ave., Sherwood-Minton H. (1846). (8) Earth-
works, moat & parade ground of Ft D, Union fortified pt. during Civil War, are
preserved in public park, Locust & Fort Sts. (9) Cape Rock Rd., Cape Rock Pk.,
overlooking R., contains marker comm. Ensign Girardot's trading post. (10) Normal
624 US 67 and US 65 -MISSOURI
Ave. bet Pacific St. & Henderson St., SE. Mo. St Teachers CoHege; Adm. Bldg.
contains Houck Coll. of statuary reprods. & Lib. Bldg. contains mus. with Ind.
relics, fossils, firearms & other exhibits.
US61 now descends to low-lying Mississippi plain, where begins great cotton belt
extending S. into Delta reg. 167.5. SIKESTON (see US6Q) is at J. with US60 (see).
187. J. with New Madrid Rd., leading (L) l m to New Madrid, farmers' trading &
shipping center, near which fur-trading post was est. c.1783 by Francois & Joseph
Le Sieur. In 1789, Sp. authorities of La. territory granted Col. George Morgan
15,000,000 as. of land for Amer. colony here, & Morgan laid out straggling
site by R. Violent earthquakes, beginning Dec. 16, 1811 & continuing 2 yrs., devas-
tated site, & in later yrs. shifting of R.'s course required several removals of town
to new site. Fortified by Confeds. in Civil War, New Madrid was besieged & captured
by Gen. Albert A. Pope's Union forces in Mar, 1862.
US61 runs (S) along Miss. R. through rich, productive cotton acres of Mo.'s
SE. sec., passing through such typical cotton towns as PORTAGEVILLE, 203., &
HAYTI, 217.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) Take St.84 (L) from Hayti to Carathersville, 6m, levee-guarded town
on Miss., which began as La Petite Prairie, fur trading post est. in 1794 by Francois Le
Sieur. By 1808 there was settlement of 2 doz. log cabins. John Hardeman Walker in 1857
platted town on his plantation. It grew slowly until it became RR. terminus & in 1898,
cty. seat.
(B) Take St.84 (R) to Kennett, 17m, on site of Ind. village ruled by Chief Chillecautaux,
laid out in 1846. Cotton is king here, & Kennett is dominated by cotton gins, compress &
oil mills; but soybeans have become important in recent yrs., & town is SE. Mo.'s soybean
capital.
US61 conk through several sm. cotton-growing communities to MO.-ARK. LINE,
239.
US 67 MISSOURI
ST. LOUIS, MO. (S) to MO.-AKK. LINE (7 from Corning, Ark.). 177.5. TJS67
Via: Fredericktown & Poplar Bluff. RJRs. parallel route in parts. Accoms: Hotels in
larger towns, cabins & camp, facils.
US67 traverses SE. Mo. skirting E. fringe of Ozarks.
0. ST. LOUIS (see). Bet St. Louis & J. at 86.5., US67 is united with US61 (see).
87.5. FREDERICKTOWN, shipping center for farm, timber & mineral products,
which began as Creole settlement in 1800. 118. J. with St.34.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to J. with St.143, 4m; turn (R) on this to Sam A. Baker St
Pk. (7,138 as.dining lodge.cabms,boat.riding), 8m, rough, heavily timbered wilderness area
through which flow Big Cr. & St. Francis R.
US67 cont., crossing at 124.5. L. WAPPAPPELLO, through Ozark mt. country.
155.5. POPLAR BLUFF (see US60) at J. with US60 (see). 177.5. MO.-ARK. LINE.
US 65 MISSOURI
MO.-IOWA LINE (75^ from Des Moines, Iowa) (S) to MO.-ARK. LINE (24^
from Harrison, Ark.). 339. US65
Via: Trenton, ChiUicothe, Carrollton, Marshall, Sedalia, Warsaw & Springfield. RRs.
parallel most of route. Accoms.: Ample.
In. NW. Mo. US65 cuts across vast prairie, intensively farmed. In S. sec. it winds
into rugged Ozarks, emerges on fertile plateau surrounding Springfield, then winds
again through Ozarks.
Sec. Is MO.-IOWA LINE to SEDALIA. 155.
0. MO.-IOWA LINE. 14. PRINCETON, dating from 1846, was the birthplace of
Martha Canary ("Calamity Jane"), U.S. Army scout in Black Hills campaign
against Sioux. 39. TRENTON, sett c.1834, serves large trade territory & sup^rts
srn. local industries <& RR. yards.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.6 (R) from Trenton to 640-a. wooded Crowder St Pk. (camp.pic.),
4.5m. At 25m Is J. with St.1 3.
Turn (R) on this to Rd. 3m ; (L) on this, across RR. tracks, & (R) to second local Rd.,
5m; (L) on this, then (R) at 5.5m to cottage; (R) 200 yds. is Site of Adam-ondi-Ahman on
US 65 MISSOURI 625
Grand R., Mormon settlement founded in 1838 by Prophet Joseph Smith but evacuated
same yr. because of Gentile Missourians' opposition.
St.6 cont. to Gallatin, 27m, laid out, 1836, on S. side of Grand R., where antagonism bet
Mormons & Gentiles culminated in "Mormon War," 1838. At 35.5m is J. with US69, on
which route cont. (L). Cameron, 48.5m, laid out, 1855, is farmers' trading & garment-mfg.
center. At 52m is J. with St.121, leading (L) 1.5m to 160-a. wooded Wallace St Pk,
(cabins.camp.pic.)- At 74m is J. with local Rd. leading (R) to narrow Rd., 1.5m, (L) on
which is Waltas Lockett Watkins Mil! (fee. 1861), whose 1st fl. contains blacksmith shop &
flour mill & its upper fls. woolen mill. Back of it is Watkins H. (lS50.Class.Rev.); & to E.
are Franklin Sch. BIdg. (1852) & Mt. Veroon Missionary Baptist Cfa. (1870-71). At 74.5m
is J. with St.92.
Turn (R) on this to J. with local Rd., 6^ a (R) here to 2nd local Rd. at schoolh., 7.5m,
& (R) here to Rbt James Farm (oldest section 1822, the rest 1893-fee), 8m, birthpl. in
1847 of famous outlaw Jesse James & boyhood home of him & his brother, Frank.
Ringed with wooded hills. Excelsior Springs, 76.5m is Mo.'s chief spa, dating from dis-
covery here in valley of Fishing R. in 1880 of Old Siloam Spring. Today there are several
bathhs. Modern is the Hall of Waters (1938), Siloam Pk., houses baths & hydrotherapy
& massage facils., swim, pool, Hall of Springs, & bottling plant. At 88.5 m is J. with Liberty
Cutoff.
Turn (L) on this to Liberty, 2.5m, laid out, 1822, which early became seat of merchant
& plantation-owner aristocracy. Among its landmarks are: 307 N. Walter St., Major
Alvan Lightbiirne H. (Greek Rev.); 124 N. Gallatin St., Madison Miller H. (1840.Greek
Rev.); Gallatin & Mississippi Sts., Bishop H. (before 1840). Overlooking town from
"Old Hill" is Wm. Jewel! College (chartered 1849), coed, institution est. by Mo. Baptist
Gen. Assoc. with financial aid from Dr. Wm. Jewell. Wm. Jewell Hall (1850-58) is one
of Mo.'s best examples of Greek Rev. architecture. Carnegie Lib. houses important
special colls.
At 101m is J. with US71 (see). At 106.5m US69 crosses Mo.-Kans. Line on Fairfax Bridge
across Mo. R. to Kansas City, Kans.
62.5. CHILLICOIHE, which trades with farmers, processes agric. products <&
manufactures farm machinery & other articles, was laid out, 1837. Here during
early 1870's Earl Sayer Sloan, then running livery business, invented famous
"Sloan's Liniment." CMfficothe Business College (est. 1890), 1220 Monroe St., has
been said to be largest of its type in country. 95. CAKROLLTON, stands upon
the heights above the Missouri River lowlands, was 1st sett, in 1819 & platted in
1834. Bronze Gen. Jas. Shields Man., near cth., comm. soldier & U.S. Senator who
was Abraham Lincoln's friend; buried in St. Mary's Cemetery. Crossing wide
lowlands, US65 bridges muddy Mo. R. to onetime R. port of WAVERLY, 105.
& passes through orchard country along R. bluffs to J. with St.41, 124.5,
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with Cty. 122, 7.5m &. turn (L) on this to rugged, densely
wooded 546-a. Van Meter St. Pk. (camp.), 12m, on Mo. R. bluffs, containing 2,700' long
earthworks of prehist Ind. origin known as Old Ft.
125. MARSHALL, sett, in 1839, is supported by farm trade, processing of agric.
products & shoe manufacture, & income from several charitable & educational in-
stitutions. Among latter is Mo. Valley College (est. 1888), Redman St & College
Ave., coed, institution supervised by Presb. Ch. 137. J. with US40 (see). SEDALIA;
155. (see US50), is at J. with US50 (see).
Sec. 2: SEDALIA to MO.-ARK, LINE. 184.
US65 heads (S) into Ozark hill country. 34. J. with St.35, leading (R) 1.5 m to War-
saw, seat since 1837 of Benton Cty. & until 1870*s important shipping point for
travel by boat on Osage R. Survivals of its early days are Warsaw Disciples of Christ
Ch. (1840) & Old Union H. (ante bellum), Main St. opp. cth. Since Bagnell Dam was
built impounding waters of Osage to form L. of the Ozarks, Warsaw has become
tourist & fishing center. 36.5. US65 bridges L. OF THE OZARKS (see US50) &
plunges through rugged, thickly wooded country, then emerges on fruit, vegetable,
& cattle raising plateau area. 108. CRYSTAL CAVE (sm.fee) has fantastic stalactite
& stalagmite formations. 113* SPRINGFIELD (see US60). Js. with US66 (see) &
US60 (see); with latter, US65 unites for 9 m . S. of OZARK, 130. center of tomato-
growing area, hy. winds bet. wooded slopes. 151.5. J. with local Rd. leading (L)
short distance to Old Spanish Cave (fee,guides), containing 6 caverns extending
1,600' into hillside. 159. J. with St.76.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with St.76A, 7.5m. m
(R) 2.5m on St.76A is Rockaway Beach (hotels.cabins.boat.f.riding.tennis.golf), resort
cin shores of 24m long L. Taneycomo.
626 US 71 MISSOURI
From St.76, curving around L., other side Rds. lead to resorts on shore offering recr. &
lodging f acils. At 14m | s J. with Cty. V.
(R) on this Powersite Bam, 1,700' long & 52' high, impounding White R. to form L.
Taneycomp; near dam are several resorts.
Forsyth, 15m is recr. center.
170. Resort town of BRANSON with camps & hotels, boat docks, & restaurants &
shops, faces L. Taneycomo.
SIDE TRIP: Take St. 80 (R) from Branson through picturesque region figuring in Harold
Bell Wright's romances, among whose landmarks are 1,341' peak, Dewey Bald, 7m; log,
gray, weathered, oldtime Matfs Cabin near-by; & Inspirational Pt, 7.5m. One of Mo.'s
finest limestone caverns, with IQm of corridors, containing fantastic rock formation, is
Marvel Cave (fee), 10^. Uncle Ike's Post Office, near-by, is typical back-country p.o.
US65 bridges L. Taneycomo to another waterfront resort, HOLLISTER, 172.,
notable for planned architecture & landscaping. 173.5. J. with Cty. P. leading (R)
short distance to Sch. of the Ozarks, housed in group of stone, brick & frame bldgs.
on plateau overlooking White R. Valley. Presb. Ch.-sponsored high sch. with vo-
cational training courses, this institution dates back to 1907; students work for part
of their tuition, rest being paid by patrons. 184. MO.-ARK. LINE.
US 71 MISSOURI
MO.-IOWA LINE (28 m from Villisca, Iowa) (S) to MO.-ARK. LINE (50.5 m from
Fayetteville, Ark.). 329. US71
Via: Maryville, St Joseph, Kansas City, Nevada, Carthage, Neosho. RRs. parallel
route.
US71 roughly parallels Mo.'s W. border, orig. settled largely by slaveowners from
South, who came into conflict during 1850's with antislavery settlers of E. Kans.
Rich fanning & livestock-raising reg.
Sec, 1: MO.-IOWA LINE to KANSAS CITY. 117.
0. MO.-IOWA LINE. 24. MARYVILLE, center of famed hog-raising reg., named
for 1st white woman settler, Mrs. Mary Graham, & site of NW. Mo. St Teachers
College (est.1905). 52. SAVANNAH was laid out, 1841.
65. ST. JOSEPH
Through RR., bus & plane conns. Info.: C. of O, 209 N. 5th St. Swim.: Mun. pool,
22nd & Messanie Sts., & Hyde Pk. Pony Express Comm., Ap.; Apple Blossom Festival,
early May; Baby Beef & Pig Show, 1st wk. Oct.
Although it still calls itself "Home of the Pony Express," St. Joseph is Mo.'s 3rd
largest city, an important grain & livestock center with stockyards, packing plants,
horse & mule markets, & flour mills, mfg. center with many industrial plants, &
wholesale distributing center. It is brisk, modern town with a number of imposing
public bldgs. Here on E. bank of Mo. R., Jos. Robidoux est. in 1826 fur trading
post in what was then Ind. country. After Platte Purchase in 1836 opened sur-
rounding area to settlement, many Southerners owning slaves took up land & began
raising hog & cattle & hemp. Robidoux had town laid out, 1843. Steamboats
freighted cargoes of staples upstream to be exchanged here for furs & buffalo hides.
When Gold Rush to Cal. began, St. Joseph boomed as chief supply depot for wagon
trains following N. route. Stockyards & slaughtering houses were est. On Feb. 14,
1859 1st passenger train arrived over Hannibal & St. Joseph Ry.; & on Ap. 3, 1860
1st rider on Pony Express left on mail run to Sacramento, Cal. During Civil War,
St Joseph became pt. for Confed. guerrilla operations until it was occupied by
Union forces. Afterward it quickly recovered its prosperity, becoming important
livestock center. Mo. R. was bridged in 1873 & by 1890 more RRs. had arrived.
St. Joseph boasted more wealth per capita than any other city in country in latter
year. It has grown steadily since.
PTS. OF INT.: Facing Civic Center PL's broad lawn are (1) St Joseph City Hall,
Francis & llth Sts., & (2) Pony Express Mop., Francis & 10th Sts. (3) llth &
Charles Sts., St Joseph Mus. houses Ind. & pioneer relics. (4) Poulin & 3rd Sts.,
Robidoux Row (early 1840's), is house in which founder of St. Joseph died in 1868.
(5) Michel & 2nd Sts., Beauvais Home (early 1840Y) was built by Joseph Robidoux
for Ms daughter, Sylvanie. (6) 912 Penn St., Pony Express Stable is associated with
ST. LOUIS, MISSOUM 627
pioneer organization whose riders carried mail l,975 m to Cal. (7) 36th St N. of
Seneca St., Jesse James H. is cottage in which famous outlaw, then living incognito,
was killed in 1882 by former friend, Bob Ford, who wanted $10,000 reward. (8)
Krug Pk. (168 as.pic.scenic drives. children's circus) contains lagoon & lily pond &
large natural bowl & amphitheater. Among St. Joseph's chief industrial plants are
(9) Quaker Oats Co. Plant, 2811 S. llth St., largest of its kind in country, & (10)
Swift & Armour Packing Plants, Packers Ave., W. end of Illinois Ave., with ex-
tensive livestock pens. (11) At N. 6th & Albemarle Sts., Goetz Brewery (O).
At 85. is J. with Cty. H.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Weston, llm, o ld town in valley bet. Mo. R. bluffs, notable
for ante bellum architecture, 1st sett, in 1837. Shift in R.*s course in 1857 suddenly cut it
off from R. traffic: later it became tobacco-growing center & today is biggest loose-leaf
tobacco market W. of Miss. R. Tobacco auctions are held each, winter in its Tobacco Ware-
houses, Main St.
US71 cuts through tobacco-growing Platte Cty. to Cty. seat, PLATTE CITY, 94.,
which grew up around ferry crossing Platte R. here, est. 1828. 110. J, with US69
(see US65). NORTH KANSAS CITY, 114., planned industrial community, was
created by N. Kansas City Development Co. beginning in 1912. US71 bridges Mo.
R. to KANSAS CITY, 117. at J. with US40 (see) & US50 (see).
Sec. 2: KANSAS CITY to MO.-ARK. LINE. 212.
16.5. J. with Cty.lOS.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to 1,700-a. Ixmgview Farms (guides), 12m, showplace de-
veloped by Kansas City lumberman R. A. Long, producing flowers, dairy products, horses
& hogs, with private racetrack.
21.5. BELTON, rural trading center laid out, 1871, is site of Carry Nation Man.,
Belton Cemetery, marking grave of hatchet-wielding prohibitionist. 39. HAR-
RISONVILLE, bus. center of fertile farming area. 66. BUTLER, laid out in 1854,
stages horse show each Aug. 78. RICH HELL was booming coal miners' settlement
during 1880's. Vic. is dotted with abandoned coal mines. 97. NEVADA, laid out,
1855, was sett, by Kentuckians & Tennesseeans. As Confed. troop base during Civil
War it became center of military activities & was burned to ground May 26,
1863 by Capt. Anderson Norton's Fed. militia from Kans. Its recovery dates from
its est. as Mo.-Kans.-Tex. RR. division pt. in 1870. Today it ships livestock, feed,
grain & poultry. W. Austin & S. Chestnut Sts., Cottey College (est.1884) is girls* jr.
college. 123. J. with US160, leading (L) to Lamar, 1^, dating back to 1856, whose
Lamar "Democrat," founded before Civil War, is one of Mo.'s best-known small-
town newspapers. Town's chief landmark is Pres. Harry S. Truman Birthpl. 145.
CARTHAGE (see US66) at J. with US66, with which US71 unites to JOPLIN,
162. (see US66). 181.5. NEOSHO (see US60) at J. with US60 (see). US71 winds into
rugged, forested Ozarks, passing several sm. towns & resorts. 212. MO.- ARK. LINE.
ST. LOUIS
Through RR., bus & plane conns. Steamboat Landings: foot of Washington Ave. for
Miss, sightseeing excursions. Accoms.: All types plentiful; more than 180 hotels. Info.:
"Visit St. Louis" Info. Bureau, 607 C. of C. Bldg., 511 Locust St.; St. Louis Convention
Publicity & Tourist Bureau, 911 Locust St. Recr. facils.: Henry W. Kiel Mun. Audi-
torium, Market & 14th Sts., for opera &. concerts; Mun. Theatre (open-air) in Forest
Pk. for summer light opera. Golf at mun. course in Forest Pk. & many private country
clubs. Swim, at Fairgrounds Pk. (Grand Blvd. & Natural Bridge Ave.), Marquette
(Osage St. & Minnesota Ave.) & other mun. pools. Annual events: Floral displays,
Mo. Botanical Gardens, Jan., May, Nov., Dec.; Flower Show, The Arena, late Mar.;
Mun. Opera, Forest Pk., June to Aug.; Nat. Horse Show, The Arena, 1st wk. in Oct.;
Veiled Prophet Parade, 1st Tues. after 1st Mon. in Oct., & Veiled Prophet Ball night
following; St. Louis Nat. Home Show, late Oct.; St Louis Symphony Orchestra Season,
Mun. Auditorium, end of Oct. to end of Mar.; Nat. Auto Show, late Nov.
St. Louis, country's 8th biggest city & biggest bet Chicago & Pac. Coast, spreads
(W) from great bend in Miss.; but its riverside location is no longer primary basis
of prosperity, as in pioneer days; today RRs., rather than river craft, make it
nation's 2nd most important transportation center. Furs were first articles of
commerce and are important today; St. Louis is world's 2nd largest fur dis-
tributing & processing center. But it has evolved remarkable diversity of other
628 ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI
industries, no one of which employs as much as 10th of its labor supply; it produces
beer, shoes, boxes, wearing apparel, drugs & chemicals, stoves & ranges^ & meat
products, & nearly 3,300 other products. It is besides one of country's leading grain
<& livestock markets & one of its leading whoesale & retail distributing centers.
St. Louis' 19 m frontage on Miss, is linked by 5 bridges with 111. shore. Business
center now lies mile or more (W) from R. in area bounded by Broadway on E. &
Grand Blvd. on W., Delmar Blvd. on N., & Market St. on S., through center of
which runs "Olive Street Canyon"; here are office bldgs., dept stores, theatres &
hotels. Downtown bus. dist is bordered N., W. & S. by aging, mostly late-Vict
tenements & bus. bldgs. Westward, near Kingshighway, is fashionable dist. of hotels,
apartment houses, & exclusive shops, & W. of this is huge Forest Pk., stretching to
city limits, bordered by well-to-do residential neighborhoods & by univ. campuses.
North Side & South Side are working-class & lower-middle-class residential sees.;
South Side is notable for its German community & its adj. Bohemian, Czech & ItaL
communities.
First settlement on site & probably 1st in Mo. was est in 1700 by Jesuit mis-
sionaries, who gathered Inds. from other side of Miss, around them, but was
abandoned within 5 yrs. First permanent settlers were small party in employ of
Maxent, Laclede & Co. of New Orleans, which had acquired monopoly on trade
with Inds., led by 13-yr. old Auguste Chouteau; they landed Feb. 14, 1764, having
poled their craft 60 m upstream from Ft. Chartres on E. bank, & set to work clearing
site selected earlier by firm's jr. partner, Pierre Laclede Liguest Settlement was
named for sainted Louis IX of France. Within 3 yrs. colonists had monopolies on
fur trade with 28 principal Ind. nations. Town soon became important outfitting
pt for expeditions into W. Its pop. was further swelled by Fr. settlers from E. of
Miss, who wanted to escape Brit, rule, among them garrison of Ft. Chartres & its
commandant, Capt. St. Ange de Beilerive, who served as 1st commandant of St.
Louis until arrival of Sp. officials in 1770.
During Amer. Rev., Brit, attempt to capture outposts of colonists & their allies,
France & Spain, in W. led to an attack in May 1780 by Gen. Haldimand's force of
Inds. & Canadians which St. Louisans were able to fight off. St. Louis soon grew into
upper Miss. Valley's most properous & fashionable center. But after La. Purchase,
1804, city became gateway to W.: brawling, rowdy settlement, notorious for cock-
fights & gambling houses, duels & street brawls. Overland expeditions set off from
St Louis: in 1802 Jas. Pursley & his party to Santa Fe, & in 1804, Meriwether
Lewis & Wm. Clark to Pacific Coast, Fur trade was consolidated with org. in 1 809
of Mo. Fur Co., whose annual trade amounted to $300,000. In 1808, St. Louis ac-
quired 1st newspaper in the st, "Missouri Gazette," & one of 1st schools. It
prospered, trading with covered wagon trains of westbound settlers & shipping fiat-
boats loaded with farm produce downstream. In Aug. 1817 arrived 1st steamboat,
"Zebulon M. Pike." St. Louis* pop., only 1,400 in 1808, had grown by 1837 to
20,000. Tanneries, tobacco factories, paint mfg. plants & other enterprises were be-
gun.
By 1850, when pop. numbered 75,000, St. Louis was bustling commercial & in-
dustrial center leading city of W. Along its levee hundreds of steamboats tied up.
Flour mills, iron foundries, lead fabricating plants, textile factories, distilleries
turned out vast quantity of goods. Heavy influx of German immigrants 30,000
before 1850 had swelled city's labor supply. Rapidly growing prosperity had
brought civic improvements & cultural & religious facils.: orchestra, theaters, pub.
lib., schools. Jefferson Barracks had been made U.S. Army's chief base in W.
Disastrous^ waterfront fire & cholera epidemic both in 1849 had led to rebuilding
& street-widening program & increased attention to water supply, sewage disposal &
hospital facils. During 1850's St Louis grew rich from R. traffic & richer still as
outfitting pt. for endless wagon trains to W. & as E. terminus of all but 1 of new
RRs. laid through Mo. during this decade. By 1860 its pop. had grown to 160,000.
At outbreak of Civil War, Gen. Nath. Lyon & Francis P. Blair marshalled Union
force of 10,000 & took Camp Jackson. St Louis became chief supply base for Fed.
operations in W. War orders boomed industry; within decade value of St. Louis
manufactures increased almost 300%. Civil War brought decline of steamboat
commerce; but St. Louis became converging pt for network of RR. lines. In 1874
it was linked with E. bank of Miss, by Eads Bridge & in same yr. acquired its 1st
Union Sta. Later decades of 19th cent brought expansion of recr. & cultural facils.
Jos. Pulitzer merged 2 older papers to found in 1878 St Louis "Post Dispatch,"
ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 629
one of nation's outstanding newspapers, in 1873, Susan Eliz. Blow est country's
1st pub. kindergarten; in 1880 Calvin Milton Woodward opened world's 1st manual
training school. City became intellectual center of importance with publication of
"Journal of Speculative Philosophy," founded in 1867, by one of leaders of "St.
Louis movement" in philosophy, Wm. Torrey Harris, & later of "Reedy's Mirror,**
intellectual weekly edited by Wm. Marion Reedy, which after 1896 encouraged
many younger writers. Under leadership of Halsey Cooley Ives, St. Louis Sch. &
Mus. of Fine Arts was incorporated in 1879 as dept of Washington Univ. St. Louis
Symphony Orchestra, 2nd oldest in country, came into being in 1880's. Annual
Veiled Prophet of Khorassan celebration with its street parade & formal ball was
inaugurated in 1878. At beginning of 20th cent, St. Louis, now city of more than
575,000 people, celebrated century's growth with highly successful La. Purchase
Exposition of 1904, which left city with improved water system & art mus. & pre-
sented all of America with that great innovation, ice cream cones.
During 20th cent., St. Louis played notable part in development of aviation. Aero
Club, formed in 1907 by Maj. Albert Bond Lambert, sponsored in same yr. 1st
internat balloon races. In 1908, 1st dirigible meet was held; in 1910, country's 1st
internat. air meet, in which Wright Bros, entered planes. First air mail ever carried
was flown from Kinlock Pk., N. of city, to Fairgrounds Pk. in 1911. Five yrs. later,
U.S. Army's 1st aeronautic corps was organized when 5 St. Louis pilots volunteered,
Chas. A. Lindbergh persuaded group of St. Louis businessmen to back his trans-
atlantic flight in "Spirit of St. Louis" in 1927. During period bet. 2 World Wars, both
of which accelerated city's industrial expansion, St. Louis began to take on its present-
day appearance with civic improvement program financed by bond issues in 1923,
1934 & 1935 which gave it new broad blvds. & sewers, pks. & playgrounds, hospitals
& pub. bldgs. Outstanding was its smoke abatement program begun in 1940. Another
bond issue for improvements was voted in 1944. Following World War II, city
went ahead with new projects.
PTS. OF INT.: Old St. Louis Riverfront: Jefferson Nat Expansion Mem., compris-
ing 37-block area of 200' wide levee along riverfront, foot of Market St., where
settlement of St. Louis began, was projected in 1930's as tree-shaded plaza pre-
serving several of city's hist, structures to comm. opening of West. Although clearing
of site was begun before World War II, development of pk. to be financed by
$23,000,000 in Fed. & $7,000,000 more in mun. funds was halted until war's
end. Award for design of mem. structure itself was won in 1948 by group headed
by E. Saarinen, who projected stainless steel arch 590' high. (1) At middle entrance
to pk. area is Old Cth. (1839-62.free guided tours through pk.conducted by NatPk.
Serv.begin here daily 10:30 & 2:30), 2-story edifice built of hewn limestone blocks
in cruciform, Gr. Rev. style, with Doric porticos & 198' high cast-iron dome.
Bldg. now houses hist, exhibit. (2) 3rd & Market Sts., Site of Sp. Government EL
where, on Mar. 8, 1804, entire territory of Upper Louisiana was transferred to
U.S. (3) Wharf & Chestnut Sts., St Louis' oldest bldg., Old Rock EL (1818), built
by Manuel Lisa to house Mo. Fur Co., has served as tavern, St. Louis' city hall, jail,
slave billet & schoolh. (4) Block S. of Old Rock H. is granite mon. marking Site
of Laclede's Village, where St, Louis began. (5) 2nd & Walnut Sts., Ch. of St. Louis
of France, known as "The Old Cathedral'* (1831-34), is Gr. Rev. edifice of Joliet
limestone with Doric portico & steeple. Ch. contains mus. (O.I 0-5). (6) Foot of
Washington Ave., Eads Bridge (1867-74), named for its designer, Capt Jas. B. Eads,
was world's 1st steel-truss bridge. (7) 634 S. Broadway, Eugene Field BL (c.1845) is
maintained as mus. containing mss. & relics of journalist & poet born here in 1850.
Downtown St Louis: (8) 105 N. 7th St, 10-story Wainwright Bldg* (1890-91), de-
signed by Louis Sullivan; was one of country's 1st steel-frame skyscrapers, & Sulli-
van's design had revolutionizing effect on subsequent office bldg, architecture. Mem.
Plaza, 7-block area, Market & Olive Sts., 12th St. Blvd. & 15th St., is St Louis*
civic center, about which are grouped: (9) 10-story impressive U.S. Customs &
Cth. (1935); (10) 14-story Civil Courts Bldg. (1930), architecturally peculiar com-
bination of modern building, Greek temple & Egyptian pyramid; (11) SL Louis
City Hall (late 19th cent), in Fr. Hotel de Ville style; & (12) the much more simple
Man. Courts Bldg. (19 11. Modern). (13) Henry W. Kiel Mun. Auditorium (1934),
contains vast exposition hall, convention hall seating 11,500, opera house seating
3,500 & smaller chambers. (14) Soldiers' Mem. Bldg. (1938), consisting of loggia &
2 mus. bldgs., houses mus. of war relics. (15) 13th & Locust Sts., parent ch. of
630 ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI
Episc. Diocese of Mo., Christ Ch. Cathedral (1859-67; adds. 1894 & 1911) is in the
Eng. Goth, style. (16) Olive, Locust, 13th & 14th Sts., St Louis Cent Pub. Lib.
(1912) has coll. of more than 1,000,000 volumes. (17) 15th & Locust Sts., Campbell
H. (ante bellum.fee), last surviving mansion of Lucas PL residential area, fashion-
able in 1850*s, contains orig. furnishings. (18) Union Sta. (1893-96), Market St. bet
18th & 20th Sts., dominated by its peak-roofed 230' clock tower, is part Romanes.,
part Fr. neo-classic in style. (19) Mem. to Louis P. Aloe, Aloe Plaza, facing Union
Sta. is dominated by sculptor Carl Milles* fountain, "The Meeting of the Waters."
West Side: Forest Pk. & Environs: (20) Oldest Univ. W. of Miss. R., St Louis Univ.,
Adm. Bldg. at 221 N, Grand Blvd., is housed in scattered group of bldgs. concen-
trated around 2 centers on Grand Blvd., one at Olive St. & other l m (S) at Caroline
St Founded by Louis Wm. Du Bourg, Bishop of La. & Floridas, in 1818, it became
Jesuit institution in 1827 & was chartered as St Louis Univ. in 1832. It operates
world's foremost Cath. medical center. Du Bourg Hall, in whose < corridors hang
coll. of rare old paintings begun by Bishop Du Bourg, contains Univ. Central Lib.
& mem. room honoring early grad. & faculty member Peter De Smet, S.J., renowned
Ind. missionary. (21) Grand & Lindeli Blvds., St Francis Xavier's Ch. (1898), is
Eng. Goth, edifice. Altar in S. transept was used by Jesuits of Kaskaskia Mission in
HI. (1705-1768); altar stone, brought by canoe from Quebec, in Jesuit mission near
Chicago (1663-1700) & in Jesuit mission on site of St. Louis (1700-1705). (22) New-
stead Ave. & Lindeli Blvd., seat of St Louis Cath. Archdiocese is $3,750,00
granite Byzantine-style Cathedral of St Louis (begun 1907), of cruciform design
with two 157' towers & 227' central dome.
Forest Pk. Lindeli & Kingshighway Blvds., Oakland Ave. & Skinker Blvd., covering
1,380 as., is country's 2nd largest mun. pk. Opened in 1876, it was site of La. Pur-
chase Exposition (1904). (23) Theater & Government Drives, St Louis Mun. Opera
Theater, 10,000-seat open-air amphitheater. (24) Lindeli & DeBaliyiere Blvds., Jef-
ferson Mem. (1913), with its huge marble Thos. Jefferson (by Karl Bitter) dominating
loggia flanked by 2 wings, houses in E. wing Hqs. of Mo. Hist Soc., containing mus.
of Ind. & pioneer relics & lib.; in W. wing Lindbergh Trophies, comprising gifts
received by Chas. A. Lindbergh following pioneer transatlantic flight of 1927 in
"Spirit of St. Louis." (25) Illuminated after dark, waters of Polychrome Electric
Fountain, Government Dr. at Post-Dispatch L., fall over terraced limestone. (26)
Wells & McKinley Drives, steel & glass Jewel Box is conservatory which houses spec-
tacular displays of flowers & plants. (27) Concourse, Government, Washington &
Wells Drives, St Louis Zoological Garden (77 as.), housing more than 2,000
animals, birds & reptiles, pioneered in development of natural settings. (28) Roman-
style City Art Mus. (1904.O.daily except Christmas & New Year's 10-5;Mon.2-9
May-Oct.), Art Hill, before which stands bronze equestrian Statue of St Louis the
Crusader (by Chas. H. Niehaus), has one of nation's foremost colls, of painting,
sculpture, drawing, architecture & applied arts. Coll. of Chinese bronzes, ceramics
& paintings is one of finest of its kind. Noteworthy are Medieval Rooms, Romanes,
chapel & gallery, & Goth. & Hispano-Moorish Courts. There is notable coll. of
paintings by Mo. artist Geo. Caleb Bingham. (29) Lindeli Blvd. & Skinker Rd.,
Washington Univ., housed in handsome group of modern bldgs. spreading over
tree-dotted campus of 160 as. Twin-towered BrooMngs Hall, adm. bldg., crowns
Ml! slope. Medical center with affiliated hospitals occupies separate campus at
Kingshighway Blvd. & Euclid Ave. Univ.'s hist, goes back to Eliot Seminary, char-
tered in 1853, whose chancellor was Rev. Wm. Greenleaf Eliot, grandfather of
famous poet & Nobel Prize winner, T. S. Eliot (born in St Louis, 1888). (30) 801
DeMun Ave., country's largest Prot seminary, Concordia Seminary, housed in 18
Goth.-style buildings on campus of more than 70 as., was est. in 1839 by Luths.
from Saxony at Altenburg (see US61). Adm. Bldg. lias the Concordia Hist. Institute
coll. of relics, documents & books associated with pioneer Luth. immigrants.
South Side; (31) 5600 Oakland Ave., Forest Pk. Highlands is one of Midwest's big-
gest amusement centers. (32) 5700 Oakland Ave., Hie Arena, is $2,500,000 stadium
seating 21,000, in which are held ice hockey & basketball games, skating shows,
rodeos, flower & auto shows & other events. (33) Tower Grove Ave. & Flora PI.,
Mo. Botanical Garden, popularly known as Shaw's Garden (O.8 to sunset, wks.10
to sunset, Sun.free) covering 75 as., contains largest coll. of plant life in W. hemi-
sphere, with more than 12,000 species. Annual orchid & chrysanthemum shows are
nationally known. Lily Ponds contain 17 hybrid varieties; Plant Curiosities H. ex-
hibits botanical freaks. Garden was founded in 1858 by cutlery magnate, real estate
TRIPS OUT OF ST. LOUIS 631
operator & philanthropist Henry Shaw. Its older structures incl. Adm. Bldg. (18M;,
Shaw's town house; Tower Grove (1849), his country house; octagonal, sculpture-
surmpunted Shaw's Mausoleum; Mus. & Lib. Bidg. (1858-59); & Linnean H., typical
of mid- 19th cent, greenhouse design.
(34) Tower Grove & Magnolia Aves., Tower Grove Pk., covering highly-landscaped
277-a. area, comprises part of country estate of Henry Shaw. (35) Lafayette, Mis-
sissippi, Missouri & Park Aves., Lafayette Pk., St. Louis' oldest, is 30-a. landscaped
area set aside in 1836. (36) Broadway & Pestalozzi St., Anfaeuser-Buscli Brewery
(conducted tours), world's largest, occupies almost 140 large structures covering
more than 140 as.; firm was begun in 1857. (37) Of walled-in cluster of brick &
stone structures comprising Old Arsenal, 2nd & Arsenal Sts., est. in 1827, 8 were
built in 1830 & 3 more in 1856. (38) Foot of Grand Blvd., Carondelet Pk., a rolling,
thickly wooded tract.
North Side: (39) 3015 Cass Ave., extensive Goth.-style Amen Wine Co. Plant
(1859.guides) is built over maze of stone cellars opened in 1832. (40) Fair, Grand,
Kossuth & Natural Bridge Aves., Fairgrounds Pk. (athletic fields.tennis.swim.) oc-
cupies former site of annual St. Louis Fair & of aviation field on which 1st air
mail ever flown was landed in Oct. 1911; it has one of world's largest outdoor swim,
pools. (41) Bet Florissant Aye. & Broadway at Taylor Ave., O'Fallon Pk. (boat)
is 159-a. tract cut by deep ravines overlooking Miss. R., with observatory. (42) 4947
W. Florissant Ave., Belief ontaine Cemetery, opened in 1850, contains graves of
many notable early St. Louisans (maps showing location avail, at office at main
entrance). Here is gray limestone, domed Wamwright Tomb (1892), resting place of
Ellis & Charlotte Dickson Wainwright, considered one of the chief works of archi-
tect Louis Sullivan. (43) 5239 W. Florissant Ave., St. Louis' largest cemetery, 476-a.
Calvary Cemetery, opened in 1864, contains graves of Auguste Chouteau, one of
St. Louis' founders, & Gen. Wm. Tecumseh Sherman of Civil War fame. Within
grounds is to be seen Old Orchard, house built by Henry Clay in 1845. (44) 11000
N. Riverview Dr., Chain of Rocks Pk., overlooking Miss, from river heights, com-
mands fine view.
TRIPS OUT OF ST. LOUIS
L US40AIt (NW) to J. with US61. 41.5.
0. From downtown St. Louis (12th & Olive Sts.) follow US40Alt 17. J. with com-
bined US66 & US Bypass 67 (Lindbergh Blvd.).
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) 2m to Lambert-St Louis Mira. Airport, one of country's
biggest & best-equipped, est. in 1920 through efforts of Maj. Albert Bond Lambert. At
3.5^ is J. with combined US Bypass 67 & St.140; turn (L) on this to J. with Charbonier
Rd, 4m.
(1) Turn (R) on Charbonier Rd. to garden & orchard-surrounded old frame & brick
houses of Florissant, 0.5m, sett, c.1785 by Fr. Ch. of St. Ferdinand (1821 .extension &
new facade 1870), facing Francis St., contains old paintings & tabernacles. Adj. are
Rectory (1819) & Convent of the Sisters of Loreto (1821), built to house Mother
Duchesne & Sisters of U.S.* 1st branch of Society of Sacred Heart. St Louis St. at N.
end of Pierre St., log, clap-boarded Casa Alvarez, typical of Mo. Fr. architecture,
was home of Augustine Alvarez in 1790's.
(2) Turn (L) on Charbonier Rd. to J. with Howdershell Rd., 1.5m & (L) on this to
St. Stanislaus Seminary, 2m, Jesuit novitiate est. in 1831. Central bldg. (1840-49) domi-
nates quadrangle of other structures, incl. lib. with rare early books & paintings &
chapel with altar brought from France. Cemetery contains Grave of Father Peter John
de Smet, Ind. missionary, peacemaker & writer, ordained at Florissant in 1827.
US40Alt. cont. to J. at 19. with US Bypass 40, on which it cont (straight ahead)
across Mo. R. at 22. to ST. CHARLES, 22.5., Mo.'s 1st capital (1821-26), climbing
steep R. bluffs, sett, by Fr.-Canadians from 1769 on. After Lewis & Clark expedition
of 1804-06, town was soon swamped by Amer. settlers. When Mo. became a terri-
tory, it was made seat of one of orig. 5 counties & 9 yrs. later, in 1821, was desig-
nated St. capital. German immigrants began arriving in early 1830's. 1^1849, St
Charles was inc., but St. Louis soon surpassed it as commercial & industrial center.
Second-floor rooms of 3 adj. brick bldgs. comprising Old St Capitol (1814), 206-212-
214 S. Main St, housed general assembly 1821-1826. Ludwell-Powell H. (1840.
altered), 6th & Jefferson Sts., was built by 1st mayor. St Charles College Bldg.,
117 N. 3rd St., housed college est. in 1835. Lindenwood College (chartered 1853) for
632 IMPS OUT OF ST. LOUIS
women, Kingshighway at Madison St., founded in 1827, has grown from single log
cabin to imposing group of Tudor Goth, brick bldgs. on wooded, 150-a. campus.
Red brick bldgs. of Academy of the Sacred Heart, Decatur, Franklin, 2nd &_3rdbts.,
1st seat of this order to be opened in W. hemisphere, center around ong. bldg.
(1838), which contains room occupied by convent's founder, Mother Duchesne,
furnished with relics; she is buried in vault of shrine (completed 1853). ht Charles
Borromeo Cemetery, W, of Blanchette Pk., contains graves of many pioneers.
40. FT. ZUMWALT ST. PK. contains stone-chimneyed log Jacob Zumwalt Cabin
(1798), thought to be oldest surviving hewn timber cabin W. of Miss., which was
inc. in Ft Zumwalt, built for defense against Ind. attack during War of 1812. 41.5.
J. with US61 (see) & US40 (see).
BL US40, St94, St47 (W) to WARRENTON, 71.
0. From downtown St. Louis (12th & Market Sts.) follow US40 (Market St.). 11. J.
with US61 (see), with which US40 unites (W). 21. J. with Cty.CC.
SIDE TRIP: Turn (L) on this 6m to J. with SU09 & (R) on St.109 to rolling wooded,
1,837-a. Edmund A. Babler St. Pk. (pic.hik.riding), 7m.
30. J. with St94; route turns (L) on this to J. with local Rd. at DEFIANCE, 35.
SIDE TRIP: Turn (R) on this to J. with 2nd local Rd., .08m; (L) OD i this to J. at 1m;
(R) to J at 1 5m; (L) to J. at 2m & (L) to old Natfaan Boone BL (before 1820), 3m,
built by youngest son of Dan. Boone, who sett, here c.1799. Dan Boone himself is
said to have carved woodwork; he died here on visit to his son Sept. 26, 1820.
37. MATSON, at J. with poor Rd., leading (R) short distance to Dan. Boone Farm.
South of farmhouse is Site of Dan. Boone Cabin, where famous frontiersman,
having lost bis Ky. property, came to settle in 1799 at age of 65 on Sp. land grant
51. J, with St.47; route turns (R) on this. 52.5. J. with local Rd. leading (R) l m to
Bryan-Boone Cemetery, in which Dan. Boone & his wife were orig. buried; their
remains were later moved to Ky. 54. FLANDERS CALIAWAY H. (c.1800), home
of Dan Boone's daughter, Jemima, & son-in-law, was often visited by Boone. 71.
J. with US40 at WARRENTON (see US40).
IH. US50 & StlOO (W) to WASHINGTON* 54.5.
0. From 12th & Market Sts., in downtown St. Louis, follow US50 (Market St.). 8,5.
MAPLEWOOD., one of St Louis' many suburbs, dates from 1890*s when Maple-
wood Realty Co. opened subdivision here. 10. BRENTWOOD, another suburb,
was inc. c.1900, uniting 3 adj. subdivisions.
SIDE TRIP: Take North & South Rd. (L) from Brentwood to Webster Groves, 3m.
Post office was opened in 1884 & town inc. in 1896. Webster College (est.1916), 470 E.
Lockwood Ave., is 4-yr. Cath. women's college which maintains Locksley Observ.
(observation booth & 12" telescope.O.Tues.Thurs.S-lO p.m.). Eden Theological Seminary
(est.1848), 475 E. Lockwood Ave., is grad. school maintained by Evangelical & Re-
formed Ch.
13. KIR!CW00I>5 laid out by St Louis businessmen as suburban center following
construction of Mo. Pac. RR. in 1853, was inc. in 1865 & named for RR. engineer
Jas. P. Kirkwood. Kirkwood is at J. with US61 (see). 41. GRAY SUMMIT, one of
the highest pts. on RR. bet St. Louis & Kansas City, was named for early settler
Dan. Gray. Local Rd. leads (R) from Gray Summit l m to Ralston Co. Experimental
Farm (guides), world's largest private experimental farm, which tests commercial
animal & poultry feeds. 41.5. J. with US66 (see) with which US50 unites for 6.5^.
US50-66 is bordered by Henry Shaw Garden-Way, extending along US66 30 m (W)
from St Louis city limits, planted with native trees. 42. MO. BOTANICAL GAR-
BEN ARBORETUM (1,600 as.) on Meramec R., part of whose tract has been set
aside to show the natural vegetation of Ozark meadow & woodland, has one of
world's biggest colls, of orchids, grown in greenhouses. 43.5. J. with St. 100, on whicb
route turns (R) to WASHINGTON, 54.5., one of chief settlements of Mo.'s pioneer
German emigres; handsome, garden-bordered old red-brick dwellings, many dis*
tinctively German, line streets that slope steeply to Mo. R. Here, at ferry crossing,
several German families settled 1833. Other Germans followed & Washington,
soon thriving R. port, developed active social & cultural life centering around their
theatrical & athletic societies. Processing of corncobs into pipes may be witnessed
at Mo. Meerschaum Plant, Front & Cedar Sts.; Franz Schwarzer Zither Factory,
207 E. Main St, is said to be only one of its kind in U.S.
US 18 IOWA 633
IV. St30, US61 (S) to CRYSTAL CITY. 40.
0. From downtown St. Louis (12th & Market Sts.), take St.30 (12th St, Gravois
Ave., Gravois Rd.). 11. GRANT'S CABIN, Grant Rd. & Gravois Cr., 2-story log
cabin built by Ulysses S. Grant in 1854, moved from orig. site, stands at entrance to
wealthy St. Louisan's country place, Grant's Farm. 13. J. with US61; route turns (L)
on this. 17. J. with US67 (Lemay Ferry Rd.), with which US61 unites (S).
SIDE TRIP: Turn (L) from J. with US67 on macadam Rd. 2m to legerson Barracks
(O.Sun.only), U.S. Army post of more than 1,700 as, -with many bldgs. surrounding
the parade grounds, dating back to 1826. Among famous officers stationed here have
been Jefferson Davis, Rbt. E. Lee, U.S. Grant, w. T. Sherman, J. C. Fremont W. of
parade grounds is U.S. Nat Cemetery.
22* MERAMEC R. draws many St. Louisans for recr. jaunts (boatswim.1). 26.5.
Log "OLD HOUSE" (pre-1831) was at one time tavern where stagecoaches stopped.
28.5. J. with Cty.K, leading (L) to Klmmswick, 1m, once Miss. R. port & after 1857
an iron-smelting & shipping pt. Franz A. Hermann H. (1859), built over deep
broad beer cellar, is good example of Mo.-German half-timber construction. 36.
J. with Herculaneum Rd. leading (L) to Hercnlaneum, 0.5 m , laid out by Moses Austin
& Sam. Hammond in 1808 as Miss, shipping pt for lead mines to S. St Joseph Lead
Co. Smelter was country's largest when it was built in 1890's. 40. CRYSTAL CITY,
built near world's largest known deposit of pure glass sand (discovered 1843), which
has been supplying raw material for plate glass production since 1872, is dominated
by huge modern brick & steel structures of highly mechanized Pittsburgh Plate
Glass Co. Plant Crystal City is planned industrial town.
US 18 IOWA
MARQUETTE, IOWA (3** from Prairie du Chien, Wis.) (W) to IOWA-S. DAK.
LINE (4 from Canton, S. Dak.). 317. US18
Via: West Union, Charles City, Mason City, Algona & Spencer. RR. & bus lines par-
allel parts of route. Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
US 18 traverses scenic reg. of N. Iowa, dotted by Ls. & cut by Rs., with many St pks,
&, recr, areas. W. of Mason City for 100 m it crosses prairie.
Sec. 1: MARQUETTE to MASON CITY. 127.
US 18 crosses Miss. R., which is lowa-Wis. Line, 0. ? on Marquette Toll Bridge.
MARQUETTE, 1., named for Pere Marquette, who with Louis Joliet first saw Iowa
territory in 1673, is Milwaukee RR. division pt. US 18 follows R. bluffs to Mc-
GREGOR, 3., in ravine edged by high cliffs, which in 1836 became terminus of
ferry line from Prairie du Chien est. by Alex. McGregor. On McGregor Heights,
Amer. School of Wild Life Protection, whose faculty includes naturalists & scientists
from all over country, holds annual sessions in Aug. Within radius of 15 m are hun-
dreds of Ind. village sites, cave shelters & effigy mounds, fortifications & earthworks.
POSTVDLLE, 29., named for Joel Post, who built house here in 1841, is cheese-
producing center. At 30. is J. with US52.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Calmar, 17m, Czech settlement & farm shipping pt. at X
with St.24.
(1) Take St.24 (L) to Ft Atkinson, 5^, whose residents also are chiefly of Czech descent,
at ft. of bluff on which is 5-a. Ft Atkinson St P&, containing part of 2-story barracks,
officers* quarters, blockh. & magazine from Old Ft Atkinson, built in 1840 to protect
Winnebago from Sac & Fox & Sioux, along with 2nd blockh. restored to orig. appear-
ance after demolition.
(2) Take St. 150 (L) from Calmar to J. with improved Rd., 5m, & turn (R) on this 2.5
to St Anthony's Chapel (1885), 12' x 16', with 4 pews seating 2 each, built by John
Gartner & Frank Huber. St.150 cont to W. Union (see below), 17m, at J. with US18.
From Calmar, US52 cont. (N) to J. with St.325, 19m.
Turn (L) on this to SpIIIville, 5m, containing 2-story brick & stone Dvorak H. where
Bohemian composer Antonin Dvorak lived with his family in 1893 & worked on Ms
"String Quartette in F Major, Opus 96" & last movement of his "New World Sym-
phony,'* & handsome St Wenceslans Ch^ reprod. of cathedral at Kuttenberg, where
Dvorak played organ.
US52 cont. (N) to Decorah, 28m, on Upper Iowa R., named for Chief Waucon Decoran,
who aided whites during Black Hawk War. Decorah was sett, largely by Norwegians, who
made it their chief center W. of Miss. R.; here is published most widely circulated Norweg.
634 US 18 IOWA
language newspaper in country. Lather College (opened 1861), coed. Evangelical Luth. Ch.
of America institution, occupies 40-a. natural pk., whose landmarks incl. Pioneer Mem.,
built of honeycombed limestone, & Koren Lib., rich in Norweg.-Amer. materials. Main-
tained by college, Norweg.-Amer. Hist. Mus. is repository of articles illustrative of Norweg.
settlement in America, housed in 3-story bldg. & group of pioneer log structures with early
furnishings; among exhibits are household articles, tools & costumes from Norway^ fish,
boats & 4-rm. Norweg. house & such pioneer relics as ox yokes & grain cradles. Pictur-
esquely scenic reg. around Decorah is known as "Little Switzerland" of Iowa.
US18 cont. (SW) to W* UNION, 45,, seat of Fayette Cty., at J. with St.150.
SIDE TRIPS: (A) Take SU50 (L) from W. Union to Fayette, 9m, seat of nonsectarian
Christian Upper Iowa Univ. (org.1857), which has mus. containing zoological, geological,
ethnological, & hist exhibits. Here also is Goth, cruciform Meth. Ch. (1876), beneath which,
excavated from rock, are series of rooms, reproducing Franciscan cell under Cathedral at
Assisi in Italy, cell in which Wm. Tyndale was imprisoned for translating Bible & Witten-
berg room in which Martin Luther made his translation. At 14m is J. with St.154.
Take latter (L) 9m to 217-a. Brash Cr. Canyon St Pk. (shelter.pic.trls.).
Oelwein, 26m, celebrated its diamond jubilee in 1948. Named for German who gave part of
his property for RR. sta. & right-of-way, Oelwein is C.G.W. RR.'s central ^Midwest division
pt, with roundhouse & shops &. converging pt. for 6 RRs. Highly unionized industrial
town, it has concrete, chemical & packing plants. At 27.5m j s L. Oelwein (boats.swinuf.
cottages). Independence, 42m (see US20 Tour) is at J. with US20 (see).
(B) Take St.56 (L) from W. Union to J. with dirt Rd., 1m; turn (L) on this to 101-a. Echo
Valley St. Pk. (shelter.pic.boatf.), 2m, so named because sounds echo & re-echo 3 times
bet its honeysuckle-covered cliffs, which overlook cedar-fringed L.
78. NEW HAMPTON, seat of Chickasaw Cty., dates back to 1850's. 96. CHARLES
CITY was 1st sett, in 1850 by Joseph Kelly, in honor of whose son Charles it was
named. When Chas. W. Hart & his college classmate, Chas. H. Parr, began building
stationary gasoline engines here in 1896, they also started series of experiments with
machines to be used in farming; because they built traction motors, their advertising
manager, W. H. Williams, coined new name "tractor." Today Hart-Parr Works
ships tractors throughout country & all over world. Charles City is at J. with US218
(see).
127. MASON CITY is trading center for wide area, focal pt for large system of bus
& truck trans., & RR. & mfg. town with smokestacks pouring black smoke over corn
& oat fields. Its pioneer settlers were mostly Masons, whose first name for place was
Shibboleth. John B. Long & John L. McMillan staked 1st claims in 1853. Ind. up-
rising next yr. stampeded most of settlers into flight, but gradually they returned.
1st mill & lime kiln were erected in 1855 by Elisha Randall, who patented in 1872
what was known as Randall's Perpetual Lime Kiln, adopted in many parts of coun-
try. Development of clay tile industry began in 1880's when much of N. Iowa had tc
be drained. Until about 1934, Iowa used more drain tile than any other area of equal
size in world & Mason City is said to have produced enough yearly to reach half-way
around world. Manufacture of brick, tile & Portland cement is still leading industry.
Other industrial giants are beet-sugar refinery, beef & pork packing plant, sand &
gravel plant & creamery; smaller enterprises produce variety of articles. City's
prosperity has brought many civic improvements, incL modern airport & fine pks.;
Iowa's 1st jr. college & many handsome schools; & other recr. & cultural facils.
PTS. OF INT.: Architecturally outstanding is Mason City's new $300,000 Pub. Lib.,
on 7-a. wooded tract in heart of city. Severely modern in design is Wagner-Mozart
Music Hall, one of few public school bldgs. in U.S. devoted exclusively to music.
15 W. State St., Park Inn, low bldg. with horizontal lines, is work of distinguished
modem architect Frank Lloyd Wright, whose "prairie style" was radical innovation.
E. State St. W. of Willow Cr. Bridge, Rock Glen is group of gray stone residences
fitting naturally into limestone-bluff & creekbed environment, designed by Wright's
disciple, Walter Burleigh Griffith. Mason City is at J. with US65 (see).
Sec. 2: MASON CITY to IOWA-S. DAK LINE. 190.
CLEAR L., 10., named for 6 m -long, 3,643-a. L. on whose shore it stands, is popular
Iowa summer resort. St. 106 follows shore (L) to 70-a. Clear L. St L. Preserve (lodge.
camp.pic.boatf.bath.), 3^. 14.5. McENTOSH WOODS ST. L. PRESERVE (f.boat.
pic.), wooded 60-a. tract on N. shore of Clear L. 23. GARNER is seat of Hancock
Cty. At 24.5. is J. with US69.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Forest City, 11.5m, seat of Winnebago Cty., platted in 1856.
Turn (R) from Forest City 4m to St.332 & (R) 2m on this to 369-a. Pilot Knob St. Pk.
US 20 IOWA 635
(camp.pic.), named for glacial formation rising to one of highest elevations (3000 ia
Iowa, on which is 40' stone lookout. Around Dead Man's L. are ragged slopes heavily
wooded.
30. J. with gravel Rd. leading (R) 2* to 27-a. Eagle L. St. Pk. (boatf.pic.). 57.
ALGONA, on E. Fork of Des Moines R., was sett, in 1854 by Asa C. & Ambrose
A. Call; former's wife suggested name, derived from word Algonquin. One of 5
bidgs. designed in Iowa bet. 1911 & 1914 by pioneer modern architect Louis Sulli-
van is Druggist Mutual Insurance Co. Office BIdg., of which Sullivan's biographer,
Hugh Morrison, said: "Few buildings of that period . . . match it in quality."
SIDE TRIP: Turn (L) from Algona on gravel Rd. intersecting Main St. 1.5m to 130-a.
Ambrose A. Call St. Scenic Preserve (lodge.camp.pic.), with rolling slopes shaded by mag-
nificent trees.
67. J. with St.44.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to W. BEND, 9m, site of Grotto of the Redemption, religious
structure whose construction was begun by Fr. Paul M. Dobberstein in 1928. Incorporated
in it are rocks from every St. in Union; shells & coral from waters bordering America;
& thousands of precious & semi-precious stones, ores, fossils, & bits of petrified wood.
Near-by St. Peter & St Paul Ch. contains Christmas Chapel with huge amethyst adorning
its creche & Stations of Cross in mosaic.
81. EMMETSBURG, in valley of Des Moines R., was founded by Irish colony in
1856. Cry. Rd. leads (R) 2* to 945-a. Keamy St. Pk. (pic.golf.boatf.) near 5^-long
Five L L., containing 5 wooded Is. 93. RUTHVEN. J. with gravel Rd. leading (R)
3 m to 32-a. Lost L St Pk. (camp.pic.boatf.), adj. 1,200-a. L. 106. J. with US71 (see)
with which US18 unites for 3 m . 107. SPENCER was founded in 1859 & named for
U.S. Sen. Geo. E. Spencer. Its modern appearance is due to rebuilding after fire
which razed most of business sec. in 1931. HARTLEY, 127., SANBORN, 135., &
SHELDON, 146., are all small trading centers named for RR. officials. 161. HULL,
org. in 1882, was sett, largely by Dutch immigrants. 163. J. with US75 (see). 170.
ROCK VALLEY has pop. predominantly of Dutch descent. US 18 crosses Big Sioux
R., which is lowa-S. Dak. Line, 190., on free bridge.
US 20 IOWA
BUBUQUE, IOWA (63^ from Freeport, HI.) (W) to SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 323.
US20
Via: Manchester, Independence, Waterloo, Iowa Falls, & Ft. Dodge. RRs. parallel most
of route, bus lines follow it. Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
US20 skirts S. edge of rough, rocky reg., cut by gorges & patched by fors., to Iowa
Falls, then traverses flat prairie checkered with grainfields.
Sec. 1: DUBUQUE to IOWA FALLS. 147.
0. Dubuque Bridge (toll) carries US20 over Miss. R., which is BL-Iowa Line.
1. DUBUQUE
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: A.A.A., Union Bus Depot. Swim.: Mun. Pool, NE.
city limits near end of Thomberg Ave.
One of Iowa's oldest cities, Dubuque fronts Miss. R., its business & industrial dists.
wedged in narrow riverside strip dominated by abruptly jutting bluffs* Dubuque
prospers on farm trade; among its many industrial plants are sash & door mills (one
of them said to be world's largest), tractor works, chemical fertilizer & sulphuric
acid plants, metalworking establishments, & shipyard. 1st white man known to have
sett permanently in what is now Iowa, Julien Dubuque, Fr. Canadian, made his
home just S. of city's site in 1788 & began mining lead ore in R. bluffs. He acquired
great influence among Fox Inds. & when he died was given honors befitting chief.
On June 1, 1833, under terms of treaty with Chief Black Hawk, territory was thrown
open to white settlers; before Dubuque was yr. old, stores, saloons & cabins bordered
muddy main street of rough-and-ready mining settlement. Here in 1834 Meths.
erected 1st Ch. in Iowa; 1st bank was chartered & 1st newspaper est in 1836. Al-
though it lost to Burlington its rank as Iowa's largest city after 1 840, it became site
of 3 colleges & greeted arrival of 111. Cent. RR. on opp. shore by forming Dubuque
& Pacific RR. Co. to extend line across Iowa. By 1860 it was again Iowa's biggest
36 US 20 IOWA
city, doing thriving trade with many immigrants to vie. & converting huge rafts of
logs into lumber & RR. ties. Lumber industry, though twice wiped out by fire, in
1894 and in 1911, flourished until 1915, & out of it grew today's woodworking fac-
tories. Salient features of economic picture today are Dubuque's curbstone City
Market, where farmers bring wagonloads of garden truck, & its barge lines terminal
& harbor, where towboats & barges on Minneapolis-St Louis run tie up. Near-by
is one of country's few inland shipbuilding yards.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) River & Tower Sts., picturesque reminder of the once-important
lead-mining industry is Shot Tower erected in 1855 for moulding lead shot (2)
$20,000,000 John Deere Tractor Co. Plant is biggest & newest addition to industrial
scene. (3) 2050 Delhi St., Univ. of Dotraqee, founded in 1852 as German Theological
School, passed later into control of Presb. Ch. It occupies group of brick bldgs.,
chiefly Goth, in style, on 50-a. hilltop campus. (4) End of Wartburg PL, Wartbiirg
Theological Seminary (founded 1854). Amer. Luth. Ch. institution occupies massive
Romanes, bldgs. of design based on that of Wartburg Castle in Germany. On exhi-
bition are special Reformation coll. of rare books & documents & coll. of ethno-
logical specimens from New Guinea. (5) Seminary & W. Locust Sts., Clarke College
(founded 1843), 1st Midwest liberal arts college for women, is Cath. institution
conducted by Sisters of Charity of the Blessed Virgin Mary; among structures on
60-a. campus are Chapel of the Sacred Heart & Grotto of Our Lady of Loiirdes.
(6) Loras Blvd. <& Alta Vista S., Loras College, Cath. men's college, traces its history
back to St. Raphael's Seminary, founded in 1839 by Most Rev. Mathias Loras.
Among bldgs. on hilltop campus are Romanes. Chapel of Christ the King, its int.
richly marble-embellished, & Keane Hall, containing Lib. of over 100,000 volumes,
including Bishop Mathias Loras* rare book coll. MHS. contains Ind. artifacts, pioneer
relics, icons & religious carvings, paintings & hist, material. (7) 2419 Central Ave.,
Hen-maun Mu& of Nat. Hist, is pjivate mus. of Richard Herrmann, containing Ind.
artifacts, pioneer relics, fossils, mineral & zoological specimens. (8) W. 1 1th & Bluff
Sts., Carnegie Stout Free Pub. Lib. houses Mary E. Lull Coll. of Paintings, including
canvasses by Iowa artist Grant Wood. (9) W. 2nd & Bluff Sts., St Raphael's Cathe-
dra! (cornerstone laid 1857), is successor to Iowa's 1st Cath. Ch., built in 1835. In
crypt lies body of Most Rev. Mathias Loras, who came to Dubuque in 1839 as 1st
bishop of new diocese of the West. Beneath one of altars are remains of St. Ces-
sianus, 2nd cent. Roman martyr, whose bones constitute Patronal Relic of St. of
Iowa. (10) Kelly's Bluff, rising behind cathedral, was named for Thomas Kelly,
eccentric recluse who, when he died in 1859, buried his fortune in ground; sums of
as much as $10,000 have been excavated. (11) On Bluff is St Raphael's Cemetery,
1st Cath. burial ground in St., with many ancient mons. (12) 1095 W. 3rd St.,
Edward Langworffay EL (1847), octagonal structure with octagonal cupola, still
equipped with original ornate furnishings, was designed by John Francis Rague,
architect of Old Capitol at Iowa City. (13) Grave of Julien Dubuque, 0.5 m from end
of R. fork of Rowan St, is marked by circular tower of Galena limestone (1897)
in medieval design. (14) At N. end of Dubuque is 133-a. Eagle Pt. Pk., overlooking
Miss. R. Along natural ledges of limestone extends 790' Ledge Garden, built with
7,000 tons of native stone, near which are 3 Ind. Council Rings. In center is Log
Cabin, oldest house in Dubuque & said to be oldest in Iowa. (15) Bluffs afford view
of U.S. Dam & Lock No* 11, one of 26 bet Minneapolis & St. Louis.
Dubuque is at J. with US61 (see).
SIDE TRIP: Take US52 (R) from Dubuque to J. at 27.5m with an unimproved Rd.
Turn (L) here 3.5m to WMte Fine Hollow St. Pk., 650-a. tract with unusual rock forma-
tions & last remaining stand of white pine in Iowa. Among attractions are Balanced &
Steamboat Rocks, DeviFs Pouch BowJ, & miflhouse & dam built in 1850.
At 34.5m is Turkey R. Mounds St. Mon^ where Turkey R. empties into Miss., containing
Ind. mounds of the effigy type. Gnttenberg, 39m, 1st known as Prairie la Porte, was later
named for inventor of printing press, Johann Gutenberg (his name being misspelled) when
German immigrants sett, here in 1834; many of its older structures are of German design.
Opposite Guttenberg UJSL Dam & Lock No. 10 extends across Miss. At 45m is Pioneer
Stock Ch. (1858), built by 1st members of St. Peter's German United Evangelical Luth.
Congr. At 60m is J. with US18 (see).
15. EPWORTH, named for Epwprth, England, John Wesley's birthpl., is site of
St. Paul's Mission H. (1857), which has underground Grotto of native rock con-
taining carved figures depicting scenes from life of Christ. 26. DYERSVILLE, sett,
in 1837-38 by Eng. families, is dominated by huge twin-spired St Francis Xavier Ch.
US 20 IOWA 637
(1888). 39.5. J. with St. 116, leading (L) 2* to U.S. Fish Hatchery (pic.). 43. MAN-
CHESTER is dairying center, whose 1st settler built cabin here in 1850.
SIDE TRIP: Take Stl3 (R) from Manchester to J. with St3 at 12m.
Turn (R) here to Edgewood, 3m, & (L) from Edgewood on gravel Rd. 2m to Bix&y Si.
MOB. (shelter .pic.trls.), 69-a. tract with waterfall, several springs, ice cave, & pioneer
log cabin.
At 15.5m is J. with St.19.
Turn (L) on this 4m to 1,412-a. Backbone St Pk. (bath.boat.camp.pic.auditoriumJ.
winter sports), Iowa's 1st & largest St. pk. Rugged limestone bluffs rising 90' to 140'
above Maquoketa R. form backbone which gives area its name. Among features are
L., observ., deer range, trout hatchery.
On Wapsinicon R. is INDEPENDENCE, 66., founded in 1837 at J. with St. 150
(seeUSIS).
90. WATERLOO
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C, Russell-Lamson Hotel, W. 5th Commer-
cial Sts. Swim.: At Cedar R. Pk. Nat. Dairy Cattle Congress & Nat Belgian Horse &
Stallion Shows, late Sept. & early Oct.
Waterloo, metropolis of NE. Iowa, through whose business center winds Cedar R.
bet. pk.-terraced banks, is leading industrial center. Foremost among its industries
are meat packing & farm machinery manufacture: it has one of country's largest
independent meat packing plants & world's largest wheel tractor company. There
are 3 radio stations, $100,000 baseball stadium, one of Midwest's biggest mun. air-
ports, nearly 500 as. of pub. pks. & variety of other recr. facils. Place was 1st named
Prairie Rapids by Geo. W. Hanna, who sett, on W. bank of Cedar R. in 1845; b^
1848 there were settlers on both banks. It acquired its present name when Chas.
Mullan in 1851, filing petition for a p.o. on which name had not been filled in, saw
Waterloo listed in p.o. directory & wrote it down because he thought it had "right
ring to it." Despite disastrous flood in 1858, Waterloo by 1860 was booming town
of 1,800. In next decade RR. arrived, brick schoolh. & wheat elevators were built,
new dam was thrown across R., & 1st pk. areas were planned. In 1892, after John
Froelich of JElkader, Iowa, had harvested crop of grain with his newly invented
gasoline engine, Waterloo Gasoline Traction Engine Co. was est, & from then on
history of city is closely paralleled by history of tractor industry. FTS. OF INT.:
(1) Eastern R. bank bet. 5th & llth Sts., Pioneer Pk. with rock-walled pools &
flower beds, contains reprod. of pioneer cabin, cyclone cellar, & old German Ft
(2) Y.M.C.A. Bldg., 152 W. 4th St., Henry W. Grout Exhibit, contains minerals
& crystals; fossils; Ind. artifacts & clothing; books, coins, & domestic articles of
pioneer days. (3) Rainbow Dr. at NW. edge of town, Dairy Cattle Congress Expo-
sition Grounds, contains Hippodrome, seating 8,200, in which are held Waterloo's
cattle & horse shows. (4) Rath Packing Plant, Sycamore & Elm Sts., & (5) John
Beere Tractor Plant, Black Hawk Cr. & Cedar R., both employ as many as 5,000
workers; latter is sue lessor to pioneer Waterloo Gasoline Tractor Engine Co. US20
follows Cedar R., bordered by 173-a. JOSH HIGGINS ST. PKWY. (bridle trls.pic.),
to 98. CEDAR FALLS, city of wide, tree-shaded streets, lawn-surrounded homes,
& pks. 1st settlers came in 1845; town was platted in 1851. From 1861 to 1869 it
was W. terminus of what is now 111. Cent RR. & boomed as grain & livestock
shipping pt. & gristmill & sawmill center. Milling declined toward end of cent. & was
supplanted by industries producing farm equipment, cement block machines, seed-
processing machinery, stock feed, serums, & other products. On R. banks are Island
Pk. (pic.), 104-a. tract with recr. facils., & Riverview Pk., whose landscaped camp-
grounds provide shelter for annual Cedar Falls Bible Conference & other groups.
CoUege St. bet, 23rd & 27th St., Iowa St Teachers' College, opened in 1876 in for-
mer home for Civil War orphans, now occupies over 2 dozen bldgs. on 244-a.
campus, at center of which rises 100' campanile. Lib* houses art coH. & mus. of
natural history.
SIDE TRIP: Take US218 (R) from Cedar Falls to Waverly, 14m, which owes its name to
slip of tongue made by chief speaker at its christening, who substituted Waverly for name
agreed upon, Harmon, honoring town's founder, W. P. Harmon, because he had spent
morning reading one of Scotf s Waverly novels. Waverly is site of Wartburg Normal Col-
lege, a 4-yr. Araer. Luth. Ch. institution, whose Waverly Mas. contains artifacts from New
Guinea, ornithological specimens, & Roman coins.
Turn (L) from Waverly on St.3 to J. with St.53, 12m & (R) qn this to 380-a. Heery
Woods St. Recr. Reserve (lodge.picJf.), 14m, heavily wooded, with L.
638 US 20 IOWA
Nashua, 32m, a t confluence of Cedar & Little Cedar Rs., was named by E. P. Greeley for
his home town in N.H.
(R) From Nashua on gravel Rd. 2m is Little Brown Ch. in the Vale, known through
popular hymn of same name, built in 1860*s,
Charles City, 43m (see US18) is at J. with US18.
115. 74-a. BEAVER MEADOW ST. WAYSIDE (pic.f.), heavily wooded. PARK-
ERSBURG, 117. & ACKLEY, 133. are both rural trading centers; latter is known
for annual Sauerkraut Day. 141. J. with US65 (see), which unites with US20 to
IOWA FALLS, 147, inc. in 1856, bordering deep limestone gorge of Iowa R. Cliff
pigeons which nest on cedar & shrub-dotted canyon walls are found in only one
other place in country. Iowa Falls Mus. (sm.fee) has among its large coll. of pioneer
<& Ind. relics & ornithological specimens one of country's largest exhibits of guns.
Ira Nichols Bird & Flower Refuge, NW. edge of town, contains specimens of prairie
flora now disappearing from reg.
Sec. 2: IOWA FALLS to SIOUX CITY. 176.
31. WEBSTER CITY was sett in 1850 by Wilson C. Brewer & named for early
stage line owner. Wilson Brewer Mem. Pk., SE. part of town, contains Pioneer Bone-
bright Mus. displaying pioneer relics in adj. cabins, one built in 1850, other in 1856.
Kendall Young Pk. is 70-a. tract of rolling woodland along Boone R.
52. FORT DODGE, bordering both sides of Des Moines R., is center of agric. &
mining dist, with one of nation's biggest gypsum deposits at its SE. edge. It has
hatcheries, serum & packing plants, tile factory & gypsum mills. Here bet 1850 &
1853 Fed. Gov. maintained Ft. named for Wis.'s U.S. Sen. Henry Dodge, on whose
abandoned site Wm. Williams laid out town in 1854. Through efforts of pioneer
settler John F. Dunscombe, Ft. podge succeeded in wrestling cty. seat from then-
thriving town of Homer in election contest which culminated in hour's pub. wres-
tling match bet Dunscombe & Homer's chief advocate, John D. Maxwell. Clay
resources of vie. began to be exploited in 1858. Visit here in 1869 yr. in which 1st
gypsum quarries were opened of Geo. Hull & H. B. Martin resulted in famous
Cardiff Giant hoax. Out of slab of gypsum which they had carted to Chicago, Ger-
man stonecutters carved 10' tall stone man who was shipped to Mr. Hull's brother-
in-law. Latter, having buried giant near Cardiff, N.Y., "discovered" him. Pronounced
by sculptors, geologists, & writers to be "prehist man," giant was exhibited by P. T.
Barnum to millions of people. Meanwhile gypsum bed in vie. covering nearly 30
sq. miles, was rapidly exploited. By 1890 there were 4 mills quarrying it from hill-
sides. When Cardiff Mill, named for Cardiff Giant, sank shaft in open prairie, new
era in industry began. Concurrently city developed as agric. center. PTS. OF INT.:
1st Ave. N. & N. 4th Sts., Site of Ft Dodge, is marked by boulder with bronze
tablet. Log Cabin, built about 1850, which was originally Adjutant's office, is now
in Oleson Pk., 1100 12th Ave., SW.; it contains articles of hist int. Webster Cty.
Hist Mus. in basement of Pub. Lib., 605 1st Ave. N., exhibits Ind. artifacts & pioneer
relics. 3rd Ave. S. & S. 10th St, Blanden Art Gallery houses pictures & art objects,
At 54.5. is J. with US169.
SIDE TRIP: Take US169 (L) from Ft Dodge to J. with St.50, llm; turn (L) on this to
Stl21, 5m & (L) here to 498-a. Bofliver Menu St Pk. (cabins.camp.lodge.pic.f.), 6m, named
for U.S. Sen. Jonathan P. Dolliver, advocate of conservation, with pool & mem. shaft
designed by Lorado Taft in his honor. Heavily wooded tract incl. Ind. mounds, deep
ravines, & limestone bluffs. Adj. is Woodman Hollow St Mon. (hik.), comprising deep
gorge cut in sandstone by Des Moines R.
78. ROCICWELL CITY has been called "golden buckle on the Corn Belt." 80.
J. with Stl7.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to J. with St.124, 5m & turn (R) here to 15-a. Twin Ls. St
Reserve (pic.bathJ .).
98. SAC CITY is trading & corn-canning center on Raccoon R. 106. J. with US71
(see), with which US20 unites for 4 m .
176. SIOUX CITY
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., 520 Nebraska St. Swim.: Riverside, Lewis,
& Carlin Pks. Monahan Post Band Concerts beginning in June; Swedish Midsummer
Festival, June.
Iowa's 2nd largest city, Sioux City spreads over bluffs & flats where Big Sioux &
Floyd Rs. empty into Mo. R. opp. Neb.-S. Dak. boundary. From lowlands rise
US 20 IOWA 639
smokestacks & tall bldgs,, on bluffs are homes among trees. City is spacious. Center
of rich agric. sec., it is important grain & livestock market & meat-packing center,
with stockyards, creameries, & produce houses; it even has poultry & dairy farms,
livestock feeding lots, & hay & grain fields within its limits, & it swarms with farm-
ers' & stockraisers' trucks bringing in produce. Site lies on ancient buffalo trl. fol-
lowed by Omaha, Oto, & Sioux Inds. & later by Fr. traders. Here in 1848 WHL
Thompson platted town of Thompsonville & during following yr. other settlers
arrived: Rbt. Perry, & Fr.-Canadian trader Theophile Bruguier, with his wives, their
father, Chief War Eagle, & other Sioux Inds. Joe Leonais, trapper, in 1852 bought
Bruguier's claim & in 1855 sold it to Dr. John K. Cook, who platted it as Sioux City,
E. Addition. Sioux City was inc. in 1857. Soon steamboats were tying up regularly
at levee. Arrival of RRs. in 1868 & 1870 made place important shipping pt By
middle 1880's floating pop. of traders, miners, adventurers, steamboat crews, R.
travelers, had given town of 20,000 an unsavory reputation. Rev. Geo. Charming
Haddock, arriving in 1885, undertook campaign against saloons, brothels, gambling
houses which led to his assassination; after that Sioux City reformed. Sinking of
boatload of wheat in Mo. R. was accident that started meat-packing industry which
changed Sioux City into industrial city. J. E. Booge recovered & bought water-
logged wheat & began feeding hogs with it; since there was no market for live hogs,
he slaughtered them & sold meat. He built small plant & hired butchers. Others
followed his lead. From this activity came Live Stock Exchange, org. in 1887. In
same yr. Sioux City promoted festival whose principal attraction was world's 1st
Corn Palace, domed & adorned with sheaves of grain & corn. Sioux City's evolution
into industrial city gave rise, in time, to labor movement. Agitation by I.W.W.,
otherwise known as Wobblies, in 1915, interrupted but not defeated by arrest &
jailing of agitators, was followed by election as mayor of local minister Wallace M.
Short on pro-labor platform. Strikes broke out in packing plants in 1921 & 1922.
And in 1932 & 1933 striking farmers & their sympathizers halted trucks & trains
bringing produce to city under leadership of Farmers' Holiday Assoc. Sioux City
today is Nation's 6th largest livestock market & one of its largest primary grain
markets. It has world's largest creamery, its largest popcorn processor & largest
manufacturer of wind-propelled generators. Its products incl. flour, honey, livestock
feeds & serums, batteries, tools & machinery, & many other articles. It is Iowa's
biggest wholesale & jobbing center, serving 7-state trade territory, & one of its chief
retail centers. It is served by 6 RRs. & large mun. airport & is head of navigation on
Mo. R. It has symphony orchestra & civic art center, 3 colleges, 10 pub. libs. & 40
pks. Among institutions on which it prides itself are its Monahan Post Amer. Legion
Band & its Abu-Bekr White Horse Mounted Patrol.
PTS. OF INT.: Sioux City's pub. bldgs. incl. (1) City Hall (1891), 6th & Douglas
Sts.; (2) Woodbury County Cth. (1918), 7th & Douglas Sts.; (3) Old Fed. Bldg. (1896-
97), 6th & Douglas Sts., with 148' clock tower housing "Old Ben"; (4) New Fed.
Bldg. (1933), 6th & Douglas Sts.; & (5) Pub. Lib., 6th & Jackson Sts., which houses
Mus. containing paintings, natural history specimens, & Ind. & pioneer relics. (6)
Foot of Chambers St., Sioux City Stockyards & Packing Plants cover 100 as. (7)
400-700 Riverside Blvd., Riverside Pk. (pic.swim.amusement) contains Bruguier's
Cabin, 2nd dwelling built within city limits. (8) End of War Eagle Dr., War Eagle
Pk., on high bluff overlooking R., contains Grave of Chief War Eagle, marked by
concrete block with bronze plaques. Among other pks. are (9) 32-a. Grandview Pk.,
Grandview Blvd. & 24th St., with Band SheH (1934) & natural amphitheater seating
6,000 & (10) 801-a. Stone Pk. (pic.camp.hik.bridle paths), Sioux R. Rd., with high
peaks & thickly wooded valleys. (11) Atop Prospect Hill, Bluff & W. 1st Sts., com-
manding impressive view of city & environs is gray granite Mon. in form of 15'
shaft, erected by Presb. Ch. to comm. prayer meeting held here in April 1869 by
3 ministers, among them Sheldon Jackson, one of greatest of Presb. missionaries.
(12) Lewis Rd. & Glenn Ave., Floyd Mon., is 100' white sandstone shaft, marking
burial place of Sgt. Chas. Floyd, member of Lewis & Clark expedition, who died
in 1804. (13) 1601 Morningside Aye., Morningside College, is 4-yr. liberal arts col-
lege founded by Meth. Episc. Ch. in 1894, occupying 23-a. campus; its conservatory
of music is notable. (14) 32nd & Rebecca Sts., Briar Cliff College (opened 1930),
woman's college conducted by Sisters of St. Francis with 60-a. campus. (15) IMnity
College, NE. edge of town.
Sioux City is at J. with US75 (see).
640 US 30 IOWA
US 30 IOWA
EUL-I0WA LINE (33*> from Sterling, HI.) (W) to IOWA-NEB. LINE (26^ from
Fremont, Neb.)* 343. US30
Via: Clinton, Cedar Rapids, Ames, Denison & Missouri Valley. RR. & bus lines parallel
or follow route throughout. Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
US30 cuts through R. bluffs & rocky hills into rolling prairie country, with thick-
growing trees, & cont. across fertile prairie to Mo. R.
Sec. 1: HJL-IOWA LINE to CEDAR RAPIDS. 87.
US30 crosses Miss. R., which is Iowa-Ill. Line, 0., on Lyons-Fulton Toll Bridge.
3. CLINTON, industrial & RR. center stretching 7 m along Miss. R., has^long ave-
nues overarched by ancient elms & late 19th cent mansions dating from its heyday
as lumbering center, which contrast with humming factories & RR. yards. 1st set-
tler In vie., Elijah Buell, est ferry across Miss, in 1835. 3 yrs. later Jos. M. Bartlett
laid out town & named it New York, which in 1855 was acquired by Iowa Promotion
Co., replatted & renamed for DeWitt Clinton, onetime Gov. of N.Y. On what had
been swampland & slough city came into being, with brick plant, boatbuilding yards,
wooden sidewalks & mule drawn street cars, luxurious Randall Hotel. It grew rapidly
after est of sawmills, which reached peak of production in 1880's, when Clinton
was recognized as largest lumber-producing city in world, with 17 millionaires.
Sloughs & streams were filled with immense quantities of sawdust, on which addi-
tions to city rapidly rose. But lumber boom ended with last log raft's arrival in 1906;
lumber people transferred their interests to railroading, & Clinton as a whole turned
to mfg., trading & retailing.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Bet. S. 1st St. & Miss. R., RiTer Front Pk., stretching almost l m ,
contains stadium, swim, pool & athletic fields, & mem. fountain & artificial water-
fall. (2) End of N. 3rd St. on R. bluffs, Eagle Ft Pk. has enormous natural stone face
on limestone cliff & 35' stone observation tower. (3) Springdale Dr. & 4th Ave. N.,
Ml St Clare Academy, housed in Romanes, bldg. on handsome estate, is Cath.
girls 9 school; its mus. houses coll. of orig. paintings. (4) 850 S. Bluff Blvd., Old Stone
H. (1837), oldest in Clinton Cty., served successively as squatter's cabin, tavern &
farmhouse. (5) 2517 N. 3rd St, Elijah Buel! H. (1857), was erected by Clinton's 1st
settler. (6) 240 5th Ave. S., St John's Episc. Ch., in style of Eng. Goth, parish church
with open timbered roof, has back of its altar Brewer Mem. Mosaic, one of finest
examples of its art in America.
22. DEWITT, named for DeWitt Clinton, Gov. of N.Y., 1817-22, is at J. with US61
(see). 70. MT. VEKNON, sett largely by Bohemians, is site of Cornell College
(opened 1853), housed in red brick bldgs. of early Amer. design on landscaped hill-
top campus dominated by stone Goth, towers of Wm. Fletcher King Mem. ChapeL
Armstrong Hall of Fine Arts contains coll. of prints, reproductions & textiles. Near
campus is Norton Tulip Garden.
SIDE TRIP: Take St. 261 (L) 4.5m from Mt Vernon to Cedar R. & turn (R) here to 648-a.
Palisades-Kepler St. Pk. (cabinslodge.camp.pic.boatf.trls.). 6.5m heavily wooded, with
scenic limestone bluffs.
87. CEDAH RAPIDS
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., Mem. Bldg., Municipal I. Swim.: Ellis &
Thomas Pks.
E. Central Iowa's principal industrial center, Cedar Rapids is situated in rich agric.
area on Cedar R., whose swift rapids at this point inspired city's name. Its business
dist. has brisk, metropolitan air; (N) & (S) are mfg. plants & RR. yards & shops, &
back into rolling hills on both sides of R. extend tree-arched residential districts.
"Little Bohemia," SW. end, is center of Cedar Rapids* large Czech colony. 3 yrs.
after Osgood Shepherd settled E. side of R., N. B. Brown, Geo. Greene & others
who purchased his squatter rights surveyed town in 1841. Dam soon built across R.
fnrnished power for grist & sawmills. In 1852 David W. King laid out town of
Kingston on W. bank, later annexed. Advent of RR. in 1858 turned city's attention
toward mfg. & marketing. During 1870*s oatmeal mills were established, gas for
illumination installed, & horse-drawn streetcars introduced. 1880's brought opera
US 30 IOWA 641
house & bus. college; 1890's, new churches & schools & new p. o., electric cars &
union sta. Cedar Rapids today is leading industrial city, producing cereals, meat
products & poultry & stock feed; road bldg., mining, & milk processing machinery;
radio equipment, truck parts, metal castings, Pharmaceuticals; & other articles. It
has a network of pks. & other recr. facils. & many cultural institutions, incl. sym-
phony orchestra.
PTS. OF INT.: Hub of Cedar Rapids' civic plan is Municipal L, in main channel of
Cedar R. (1) Here is limestone, neo-classic Mem. Coliseem (1928), 7 stories high,
surmounted by cenotaph-topped, colonnaded observ. tower; it houses city offices &
auditorium. (2) Facing it, across formally landscaped plaza, is Linn County Cfhu
(1926). (3) On E. bank, across from Municipal L, is Fed. Bidg. (1933), 1st St. bet.
1st & 2nd Aves. SE., containing murals on theme of "Law & Culture." (4) 428 3rd
Ave. SE., Pub, Lib. (1906), contains Cedar Rapids Art Assoc* Gallery, exhibiting
contemporary Amer. paintings & prints. (5) 813 1st Ave. SE., Iowa Masonic. Lib.
(est. 1844), one of oldest & largest of its kind in U.S., has mus. containing Masonic
articles, firearms & armor, Ind. relics, & other articles. (6) 1st Ave. bet. 12th & 13th
Sts. NE., Coe College, which had its beginning in sch. opened in 1851 by Rev.
Williston Jones, is liberal arts college, affiliated with Presb. Ch. Bert Heald Bailey
Mus., top fl. of Science Hall, is one of Iowa's largest, containing zoological, botani-
cal, geological, & ethnological exhibits. Of architectural interest are 2 examples of
work of pioneer modern architect Louis Sullivan: (7) 3rd Ave. & 1st St SW.,
Peoples' Savings Bank Bldg. (1911) & (8) 3rd Ave. & 14th St SE., St Paul's Meth.
Ch. (1913). (9) Bever Ave. at Mem. Dr. SE., Bever Pk., thickly wooded area with
pic. grounds & zoo, contains (10) what is said to be city's 1st frame house, John
Vardy H. (1842). (11) Ellis Lane at NW. edge of town, Ellis Pk. (boat bath. golf) has
Shakespeare Garden containing species of flowers grown in Shakespeare's garden
in England. (12) N. end 3rd St. NE., Quaker Oats Plant (guided tours), world's larg-
est cereal mill.
SIDE TRIP: Take US218 (L) from Cedar Rapids to N. Liberty, 18m, & turn (L) here 5m
to 774-a. L. MacBride St Pk. (pic.swim.boat.f.) ? with 138-a. lake & woodland preserve.
US218 cont. to Iowa City, 27m ( see US6), at J. with US6 (see).
Sec. 2: CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA to IOWA-NEB. LINE. 256.
47. TAMA was platted in 1862. TAMA IND. RESERV. (3,300 as.), at 50., is tract
of farm & timber land held in common by Sac & Fox Inds., descendants of group
who bought holdings here in 1857 (it is not Gov. reserv., despite its name). Annually
in mid-Aug. 4-day powwow is held, resembling cry. fair, with ceremonial dances.
67. J. with Stl4.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Marshalltown, 3m, retail shopping center, livestock & grain
market, & factory city producing furnaces & heating equipment, power lawn mowers &
automobile parts, tools & other metal articles, & food products. City was named for Mar-
shall, Mich., by its 1st permanent settler, Henry Anson, who arrived in a covered wagon in
1851. In 1st yrs. after Civil War city's industrial development began. PTS. OF INT.:
22-28 W. State St., Mem. Coliseum (1929), contains auditorium which houses Tall Corn
Festival & other civic events. State & N. Center Sts., Pub. Lib. (1903) has mus. with hist. &
geological collections. End of N. 3rd Ave., Riverriew Pk., bordering Iowa R., contains
Log Cabin Mem. (1936), with foundation & fireplace stones from surrounding farms, each
of its 195 logs bearing brass plate comm. one of cty.'s pioneers. Summit & N. 9th St., Iowa
Soldiers' Home, approached by vaulted elms, comprises group of red brick bldgs. in Eng.
Romanes, style on 156-a. grounds.
At COLO, 89., is J. with US65 (see). 96. NEVADA, est. in 1853. 104. AMES,
college town on prairie, bisected by Skunk R., has air of cleanliness & charm, with
well-kept homes & wide shaded streets, a mun. utilities system & airport & well-
planned street system insuring notably good traffic safety record. Here John I. Blair
built sta. for Cedar Rapids & Mo. (later North Western) RR. & laid out town, which
he named for one of RR.'s proprietors, Oakes Ames. 1st home was built in 1864.
Soon brisk small town evolved, its growth paralleling that of adj. College Farm of
St. Agric. College. Advent of rail line from Des Moines spurred development. Dur-
ing 1890*s Ames extended its limits to include college & acquired city waterworks,
lib. assoc., & mun. lighting system. Its growth has since been steady. Iowa St College
(est 1858, opened 1869), bordering US30, one of nation's foremost land-grant col-
leges & institutions of science & technology, occupies $16,000,000 plant comprising
642 US 6 IOWA
some 70 bldgs. on 3,300 as. of land with 120-a. campus whose broad lawn is broken
by trees & shrubbery. Its normal enrollment of more than 6,000 makes it one of
country's 25 largest institutions of higher learning. Best-known campus bldg. is 110'
Goth* Campanile, with 36 bells. Mem. Union is social hub. College Lib. contains
murals painted by Grant Wood & assistants. Other landmarks are Hist Old Farmfa.,
once stagecoach stop & inn; College Cemetery, one of few college cemeteries in
world; Formal Garden; & L. Layerae. College farms, arboretum, herbaceous gar-
den, horticultural orchards, & soil conservation nursery are of interest, as is 450-a.
recr. area (golf.pic.hik.riding.skiing.tobogganing).
118. BOONE, on crest of expansive prairies, is mining, RR., & industrial center,
with C. <& N.W. shops & division office & coal mines & clay & gravel pits. Boone was
laid out in 1 865 by Cedar Rapids & Missouri RR. Co. on wild tract of unimproved
land after citizens of near-by Boonesboro, laid out in 1851, had failed to donate
to co. $10,000 demanded of them along with 20 as. for depot grounds & RR. right-
of-way. Boonesboro remained cty. seat until 1887, when it was annexed by Boone;
it is said many of old settlers of orig. community would never "set foot" in upstart
city that supplanted their town as industrial center.
SIDE TRIP: Take St. 164 (L) from Boone to 896-a. Ledges St. Pk. (cabins.camp.pic.f.),
4m, rugged area with big trees, named for its huge sandstone ledges rising from tributary
of Des Moines R. to heights of 25' to 75 '.
126. OGDEN was named for capitalist W. B. Ogden & GRAND JUNCTION, 137.,
for J. here of C. & N.W. & M. & St.L. tracks. 145. JEFFERSON is market towfc
est about 1854 by settlers who borrowed $200 to purchase town site. SCRANTON,
155. & GLIDDEN, 167. are farmers' market towns. 172. SWAN L. ST. PRESERVE
(pic.f.boat) is wildfowl refuge. 174. CARROLL, named for Charles Carroll of
Carrollton, signer of Decl. of Ind., is shipping pt. for grain, flour, livestock & other
farm produce & milling, packing & industrial center mfg. farm implements & equip-
ment. 201. DENISON was named for its founder, J. W. Denison, Bapt. minister &
land co. agent, who arrived in 1855. Washington Pk. contains log cabin built in
1857 which houses pioneer relics. 218. DUNLAP was named for RR. official Geo.
L. Dunlap; WOODBINE, 2281, for vine which grew profusely on early resident's
house; & LOGAN, 237., for Civil War Gen. John A. Logan. 245. MISSOURI
VALLEY, below high bluffs overlooking Missouri R., 1st settled in 1854, is trading
& shipping pt. for farm produce. It is at J. with US75 (see). 256. US30 crosses Mo.
R. which is Iowa-Neb. Line, on Abraham Lincoln Mem. Bridge (toll).
US 6 IOWA
BLL.-IOWA LINE (1 from Moline, 111.) (W) to COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 312.
US6
Via: Davenport, Iowa City, Newton & Des Moines. Route paralleled by RRs. & fol-
lowed by bus lines throughout. Accoms.: Plentiful at short intervals.
US6, Iowa's most heavily traveled hy., cuts (W) across S. part of state, following
route of first RR.
Sec. 1: ILL.-IOWA LINE to DES MOINES. 177.
From downtown Moline, HI., US6 follows 19th St. to J. with 5th Ave. near Miss. R.
shore.
SIDE TRIP: Take 5th Ave. (L) to 16th St.; turn (R) on 16th St. & across arsenal bridge
to 900-a. Rock L Arsenal, one of most important ordnance mfg. plants, research & devel-
opment centers, & storage depots of U.S. Army. Here in 1816 was established Ft. Arm-
strong, known as "Guardian of the Mississippi." After Ft Armstrong was decommissioned,
Rock I. became permanent arsenal for Army in W. During Civil War it manufactured
weapons for Union forces & had one of largest prisons for Conf ed. prisoners of war. It has
played major role in every subsequent war. On Grounds today are -military mus., Nat &
Confed. cemeteries, & arsenal bldgs. Near S. tip of I. are Site of Ft Armstrong, built in
1816, marked by log blockh. duplicating 1 of 3 constituting orig. ft. & by 2-story fraue
Home of Col. Geo. Davenport (1833. rest). Davenport was an Englishman who served in
U.S. Army 10 yrs. before coming to Ft. Armstrong site as Gov. troop provisioner; later ne
entered fur trade with Inds. In this home on Feb. 23, 1836 met group of 6 men to execute
articles founding city of Davenport. Here in 1845 Davenport was murdered by bandits.
US 6 IOWA 643
At 2m main Rd. across arsenal grounds conn, with US67; turn (R) on this across Miss R.,
which is Ill.-Iowa Line, on Gov. Bridge, one of few toll-free bridges across R., which affords
good view (L) of $9,000,000 Gov. Bam & Locks No. 15, largest of 8 dams of roller gate
type in U.S., with two parallel HQ'-wide locks, one 600' in length. 2 blocks (R) from end
of bridge is Site of 1st Bridge across Miss. (1856), marked by boulder, whose construction
provoked bitter feud bet. rivermen & RR. men. 1st legal test bet. them grew out of an
accident to "Effie Afton," which struck pier & caught fire; young Abr. Lincoln represented
RR. Co. in case of Hurd et al. vs. RR. Bridge Co., blocking steamboat captain's charge
that bridge was "a nuisance & an obstruction," but issue was not finally decided until U.S.
Supreme Court refused to uphold lower court decision ordering removal of bridge &
affirmed RRs.' legal rigftt to bridge any navigable R. in their westward path. At 3m, in
Davenport (see below), is J. with US6.
US6 crosses Miss. R., which is Ill.-Iowa Line, 0., on IOWA-ILL. MEM. BRIDGE
(toll), $1,450,000 suspension structure 5,552' long. 1. BETTENDORF, Industrial
suburb of Davenport, flourished after completion here in 1910 of huge plant built
by co. headed by inventor W. P. Bettendorf , mfg. all-steel under-frame & one-piece
cast steel side frame which became standard on all Amer. RRs. This plant, pur-
chased by Gov. during World War II, became Quad-City Tank Arsenal & in 1947
was converted, together with Ordnance Steel Foundry Plant, into gigantic 3. I.
Case Co. Plant, mfg. hay balers, elevators, corn pickers & other products. Other
Bettendorf factories turn out variety of products.
SIDE TRIP: Turn (R) from Bettendorf on US67 to $30,000,000 Aluminum Co. of America
Sheet Aluminum Rolling Mill, 3m, completed in 1948, with 43 as. of space under 1 roof &
capacity of 10,000,000 Ibs. of sheet aluminum plate per month.
3. DAVENPORT
Through RR., bus & plane conns. Info.: C. of C, 403-406 Main St. Swim.: Mun. Nata-
torium, 120 S. Main St Miss. Valley Fair, Aug.; Chrysanthemum Show, Vander Veer
Pk., Thanksgiving; Annual Quad-Cities Art Exhibit, Spring.
Davenport, Iowa's 3rd largest city & largest of quad-city group comprising also
Rock I., Moline & E. Moline, stretches almost 5 m along Miss. R. From its land-
scaped river front fans (W) business dist with shops, hotels & office bldgs. chief
trading & commercial center of quad-city industrial reg., bordered on E. & SE. by
riverside industrial areas. On higher ground, spreading over semi-circle of bluffs
as much as 160' high & beyond, are residential dists. Its economic prosperity has
brought Davenport cultural facils., incl. symphony orchestra, pub. art gallery &
mus., fine pk. system & many schools, churches & hospitals.
Davenport boasts many "firsts" in its history: 1st bridge across R. & 1st RR. running
W. of it, country's 1st national bank & 1st broadcasting sta. W. of R. It was
founded on land (now main business dist.) given Fr. halfbreed Antoine Le Claire
by U.S. Gov. at request of Chiefs Kepkuk & Wapello of Sac & Fox tribes, after
he had served as interpreter in negotiation of Black Hawk Treaty in 1832. Near
site on which treaty was made Le Claire built home. He later acquired land adj.
his reserve on W., which he sold to CoL Geo. Davenport & 6 other men; & here,
in 1836, Davenport was founded. Within yr. it had sawmill, store, p.o. By 1840 pop.
was 600 & by 1850, 1,848; it shot up to 11,267 by 1860, largely because of heavy
immigration of German refugees from revolutions of 1848. Miss. & Mo. RR. Co.
began construction of line to Council Bluffs in 1853 & Miss. R. Bridge Co. erected
bridge across R. yr. after. No longer solely dependent on steamboat trans., Daven-
port rapidly forged ahead. It became hqs. of Gov. Sam. J. Kirkwood & his military
staff at beginning of Civil War, since it was then terminus of telegraph facils.; &
here in 1863 was opened First Nat Bank of Davenport, 1st in U.S. to open after
passage of Nat. Banking Act.
During yrs. after Civil War, when great log rafts were floated down Miss., Daven-
port became sawmill center. Sawmill industry attracted woodworking plants,
especially cooperage firms. In one of these worked woodcarver Wm. H. Voss, who
invented crude washing machine & in 1877 set up his 1st washing machine factory;
by 1890 Davenport was washing machine capital of country. Wheels, 1st made of
wood & later of metal, likewise had become leading Davenport product before
end of century. Meanwhile, development of limestone quarries in 1880's had made
possible establishment of today's important cement industry.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Facing R. at foot of Main St. is 7-a. Antoine Le Claire Pk.,
which contains Black Hawk Treaty Boulder with bronze plaque, replica of pioneer
settler Capt. John Litch's Log Cabin Store (1836), Peterson Mem. Music Pavilion &
$44 US 6 IOWA
Man. Stadium. (2) Adj. is Mun. Natatorium, supplied with artesian water. (3) 4th &
Main Sts., St. Anthony's Cfa. (Cath.1853); brick Parish School Bldg., (1837-38) at
rear was city's 1st church. Davenport's pub. bldgs. incl. (4) 4th & Perry Sts., P.O. &
Fed. Bldg. (1933); (5) 4th & Ripley Sts., County Ctfe. (1888); (6) 4th & Harrison Sts.,
City Hall; (?) 4th & Main Sts., Pub. Lib. (8) 704 Brady St., Davenport Pnb. Mas.
containing important moundbuilder coll.; Ind., Eskimo, Mex., Peruvian & Midwest
pioneer colls.; exhibits from Egypt, Greece, Rome, Babylon, Japan & China;
geological specimens; scientific lib. (9) On grounds is clapboarded log Home of An*
toine Le Claire (1833.rest.) built by Davenport's founder, which became Iowa's 1st
RR. sta. after he moved to larger house; from it started 1st train to W. in 1855. (10)
120 W. 5th St., Davenport Mun. Art Gallery has large coll. of orig. paintings &
reprods., etchings, cameos & intaglios. (11) Brady St. bet. 8th & llth Sts., Palmer
School of Chiropractic & B. J. Palmer Chiropractic Clinic are housed in rambling
group of miscellaneous structures dominated by steel towers of Station WOC (est.
1922). Founder was D. D. Palmer, who discovered chiropractic in 1895; school &.
clinic were developed by Ms son, B. J. Palmer. On grounds is A Little Bit O' Heaven*
garden mus. of statues & mementoes collected by B. J. Palmer. (12) 518 W. Locust St.
St Ambrose College (est 1882), & (13) 1607 W. 12th St., Marycrest CoMege (opened
1939) are Cath. institutions for men & women respectively. (14) 10th St. & Tremont
Aye., St Katharine's School (opened 1884), on 10-a. wooded campus overlooking
Miss., is an Episc. Ch. girls' school.
(15) W. end of 12th St., Fejervary Pk. 5 on land donated by daughter of Hungarian
immigrant & early settler Count Nicholas Fejervary, accoms. elk, deer, buffalo &
ostriches & has Monkey I. (16) Lombard St. & Central Ave. bet. Harrison & Brady
Sts., Vander Veer Pk., has lagoons & flowerbeds, electric fountain & glass con-
servatory. (17) Credit I. (pic.golf.tennis.baseball) occupies battlefield on which 334
Amer. soldiers commanded by Maj. Zachary Taylor were defeated Sept. 4, 1815*
by 30 to 60 Brit, with about 1,000 Sac, Fox, Sioux & Winnebago allies. (18) On E.
outskirts is Duck Cr. Pk. (pic.golf.tennis.baseball), E. end of E. Locust St
Davenport is at J. with US61 (see). US6 cuts (W) to W. LIBERTY, 41., center of
live-stock-raising & dairying reg.
SIDE TRIP: Turn (R) from W. Liberty on graded Rd. to Springdale, 7m, Quaker settle-
ment whose anu'slavery residents twice welcomed John Brown & helped care for fugitive
slaves he was guiding to freedom, in 1856 & in 1858, & near which Brown trained 11 men
for raid on Harpers Ferry. Turn (L) from Springdale on St.l to W. Branch, 10.5m, where
in 1874 was born Herbert Hoover, Pres. of U.S. (1929-1933). Hoover BirthpL, W. side of
Downey St., 2-room cottage to which 2nd story & attic have been added, was purchased in
1935 for preservation as mem. in 25-a. hist, shrine. 4
58. IOWA CITY, Iowa's 1st capital & now home of St. Univ. of Iowa, lies along
both sides of Iowa R. Iowa City was founded by 1st Leg. Assembly in 1839 as
capital of Terr, of Iowa. Surveyors laid out wide streets around 12-a. capitol square,
& with funds from land sale held in Aug., construction of capitol was started. Fur-
row was plowed from Dubuque to guide influx of immigrants who rapidly built
log cabins & few frame houses. Pending completion of capitol, 4th Terr. Leg. Assem-
bly met Dec. 6, 1841 in frame bldg. loaned for temporary use. However, it was
soon found that new settlement was not near St's pop. center, & in 1847, Monroe
City was selected as capital; but public opinion did not approve choice, & Iowa
City remained capital until selection of Des Moines in 1857. First RR., Miss. & Mo.,
completed its track to this pt. at midnight of Dec. 31, 1856, with aid of prominent
citizens, who helped lay last several hundred feet of track in zero weather with light
& heat provided by bonfires. For several yrs., Iowa City was RR. terminus, with
large transient pop. of westward-bound travelers among them Mormon handcart
expedition of European converts, 1,300 strong, who camped here in 1856 & built
wooden-wheeled pushcarts for l,000 m trip to Utah. St. Univ. opened in 1855 & in
1857 took over capitol bldg. In 1870's Iowa City acquired one of St's largest
breweries; in 1880's, grape sugar factory; in late 1890*s & early 1900's, flint glass
co. & packing plant; & later, hybrid corn processing plant & advertising calendar
plant. But its modern growth has depended chiefly on growth of univ.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 727 Switzer Ave., Rbt Lucas H. (1844) was built by 1st Gov. of
Terr, of Iowa. (2) 1028 Kirkwood Ave., Home of Sam. J. Kkkwood (remod.) was
residence of Iowa's Civil War Gov. (3) Clinton St at Iowa Ave., Iowa's most hon-
ored bldg., Old Capitol (1838-46;John F.Rague, supervising architect), now houses
US 6 IOWA 645
adm. offices of St Univ. of Iowa, whose Bedford stone buildings, mostly in Ital. Ren.
or early Eng. Goth, style, spread around it Old Capitol is sturdy & graceful
structure with Doric columns at entrance portico & cupola with octagonal base
from which rise Corinthian columns supporting dome. To SE. is Schaeffer Hall,
containing Leigh Hunt Coll. of rare books & mss. & Lib. of St Hist Soc. of Iowa
(3rd fl.), with pictures, flags & relics. To NE. is MacBride Hal, containing audi-
torium & Gen. Lib. & Mes. of Nat Hist (3rd fl.), with Mammal Hall & Bird Hall.
On W. side of campus, across Iowa R., are Fine Arts Bldg., which has coll. of paint-
ings, sculpture & other art works; Dramatic Art Bldg., whose Univ. Theater, with
revolving stage, is leader in western theater movement; Medical Center, one of
country's largest, with 3 hospitals & laboratories; & Field EL, with country's 2nd
largest indoor swim. pool. There are some 60 permanent bldgs. & grounds cover
425 as. N. of westside campus, off Newton Rd., is Veterans Hospital, of advanced
modern design, on which construction was begun in 1947.
SIDE TRIP: Take US218 (R) from Iowa City to J. with improved Rd., 9m; turn (R) 5m on
this to 774-a. L. MacBride St Fk. (pic.swim.boatf.), woodland wildlife preserve with
138-a. L.
US6 cuts (W) through farming country to HOMESTEAD, 79., one of several villages
of Amana Soc., or Community of True Inspiration, which grew out of Pietist move-
ment in Germany in late 17th & early 18th cents. & in 1843 began planned emigra-
tion to America, 1st to N.Y. St. & then to Iowa. Bet. 1855 & 1862, emigrants pur-
chased village of Homestead & est. 6 other villages. Until 1932, both spiritual &
temporal affairs of communities were managed by board of 13 trustees; since then
Amana Ch. Soc. has supervised spiritual affairs & Amana Soc., production &
marketing cooperative, has handled economic matters. Colony flourished from
beginning, since its members had practical skill to quarry stone, hew wood, build
houses & mills & farm land; each member was assigned to job he did best, sharing
in community profits on equal terms with least & most skilled. Homestead, like
Dther villages, has leisurely old-fashioned atmosphere. Plain rectangular 2-story
gabled houses, stores & church, built of hardwood, red brick or brown sandstone,
show old German architectural influence. General store & meat market sell society's
produce woolen blankets, German bread, Westphalian-type hams.
SIDE TRIP: Take SU49 (R) from Homestead to Amana, 3m, oldest of villages, with
Fnrnitiire Sfeop, Woolen Mill, Bakery & Main Office of Amana Soc. Turn (L) from Amana
on St.220 to Middle Amana, 5m, with another Woolen Mill, Printing Shop & School; High
Amana, 7.5m; & West Amana, 9m, whose red brick & hardwood Floor MM still uses its
old mill stones. St. 220 cont. (L) from W. Amana to Lower South Amana. llm at J. with
US6.
90. MABENGO, named for place in Italy where Napoleon defeated Austrians in
1800, is largest of several rural trading centers through which hy. passes. 126.
GRINNELL was named for man to whom Horace Greeley made famous statement:
"Go West, young man, go West & grow up with the country!** He was Josiah Bush-
nell Grinnell, Congr. minister of N.Y., & in 1854 he followed Greeley's advice,
coming W. to found with Dr. Thos. Holyoke & Rev. Homer Hamlin, on treeless
prairie, town whose articles of founding set aside land for a college campus & for-
bade sale of liquor. Grinnell College, product of merger in 1859 of Iowa College,
founded in Davenport in 1846, & of Grinnell Univ., opened 1856, is oldest educa-
tional institution W. of Mississippi which has continuously existed as college with
4-yr. program leading to degree. It was 1st in U.S. to develop sciences as part of
liberal arts curriculum, to begin Dept. of Political Science in undergrad. college of
liberal arts & to adopt Eng. housing system without sororities. In recent yrs. it has
operated under so-called Grinnell Plan for a Liberal Education stressing students*
individual needs, broad cultural orientation & intensive study in a specialized field.
Campus (90 as.) is planned with separate residence units for men & women.
145. NEWTON, nafg. city in agric. reg. with smokestacks rising above cornfields.
Newton refers to itself as world's washing machine manufacturer; it also produces
farm & hy. equipment, household appliances, advertising specialties, blue cheese &
other goods. Inc. in 1857, it was named for Rev. soldier, Sgt Newton. After 1898,
local incubator firm undertook manufacture of ratchet-slat washers. Fred H. Berg-
man, co.*s owner, patented hand-power washer in 1904 & began mfg. it. Three yrs.
later, Automatic Electric Washer Co. began producing electrically powered washing
machines. Hand-power washer designed by Howard Snyder, inventor for Parsons
646 US 6 IOWA
Bank Cutter & Self-Feeder Co., which F. L. Maytag introduced in same yr., was
afterward equipped with electric motor; in 1917 Snyder developed for Maytag
cabinet type of cylinder washer & in 1922 gyrafoam washer. By 1925 Newton was
in midst of industrial boom. F. L. Maytag, "Washing Machine King," became city's
benefactor, financing many improvements, among them 40-a. Fred Maytag Pk.
(swim.tennis.pic.), which contains Thos. Reese Log. H. (1848). Maytag Co. Plant,
512 N. 4th Ave. W., with more than 13 as. of floor space & office bldg. of striking
modern design, has one of world's largest aluminum moulding foundries. Adj. is
Automatic Washer Co. Plant. 155. COLFAX, named for U.S. Vice Pres. Schuyler
Coif ax, passenger on 1st train passing through; it grew up as a spa with mineral
springs. Coal beds in vie. are now chief source of income.
177. DES MOINES
Through RR., bus & plane conns. Info.: C. of C., Savery Hotel, 14th & Locust Sts.
Iowa St. Fair, last wk. in Aug.
Des Moines, capital of Iowa, is an important commercial & industrial center in
rich agric. sec., spreading from both banks of sluggish Des Moines R. At its heart
are gray stone bldgs. of Civic Center, linked by arched bridges. E. Side bus. center
pushes up to foot of park-clad Capitol Hill with its gold-domed Capitol & St. bldgs.;
beyond spread bus. houses & homes with mfg. area to (S). (W) of Civic Center, sky-
scrapers of main bus. dist. rise from valley floor. Farther W. is once-fashionable
residential dist.; to NW. are Drake Univ. campus & newer residential areas. City,
covering 66 sq. miles, is spaciously planned, with wide streets, broad yards & large
pk. areas. Name Des Moines is probably traceable to moundbuilders who long ago
lived near R. banks; Inds. called stream "Moingona" (river of mounds). After ex-
plorations of site led by Col. Stephen W. Kearny in 1835 & John C. Fremont in
1841 at behest of War Dept, military garrison was est. here at confluence of Rac-
coon & Des Moines Rs. in May 1843. Wilson Alex. ("Aleck") Scott had preceded
Capt Jas. Allen & his company of First Dragoons; & when ft. was est, he obtained
permit to settle near-by & raise corn & hay for garrison. At midnight Oct. 11, 1845,
after Sac & Fox had relinquished their rights, terr. was thrown open to white set-
tlers, who rushed in to stake their claims when ft. cannon boomed out zero hour;
Capt. Allen & his men cont. to occupy ft. until Mar. of following yr. "Aleck" Scott,
securing 500 as. on E. bank, est. ferry & built bridge.
Settlement which grew up soon prospered as stopping place for CaL-bound gold
seekers. Steamboats made their precarious way upriver to drop anchor here. In
1858, place became St. capital, when 10 yoke of oxen hauled into town two bob-
sleds of archives from Iowa City. News of Civil War aroused struggle bet. northern
& southern sympathizers, but city made substantial contribution to war effort. In
spring of 1894 "Kelly's Army" of nearly 1,000 men en route from Omaha to Wash-
ington to plead their cause before Congress descended upon city & refused to move
on until provided with 150 flatboats to cont. journey down Des Moines R. During
World War I, & again during World War II, pop. reached new peak as thousands of
friends & relatives & war workers were attracted to city while soldiers were trained
at near-by Camp Dodge & Ft. Des Moines.
Modern Des Moines is city of diversified activities in which mfg., jobbing, retailing,
banking, insurance & publishing contribute economic support. Its mfg. plants turn
out over 500 different products: airplane parts, automobile accessories & tires,
tools, machinery, wearing apparel, chemicals, medicines, cosmetics, food products
& others; among important big new plants added since World War II are tire &
rubber, agric. implements, farm equipment & furnace factories. Rich coal fields
in vie. have promoted industrial growth.
FTS. OF INT.: Des Moines' Civic Center occupies both river banks in center of
city, comprising (1) City Hall (1910), E. Riverbank bet. E. Locust St. & E. Grand
Ave.; (2) New Fed. Bldg. (1930), E. Riverbank at E. Walnut St.; (3) Coliseum
(1910), W. Riverbank bet. Grand Ave. & Locust St., seating 8,500; (4) Pub. Lib.
(1904), W. Riverbank bet. Walnut & Locust Sts. (5) From its 85-a. pk. site on
eminence E. of R., St. Capitol (1871-84;A.Picquenard,designer), E. 12th St. bet
Grand Ave. & E. Walnut St., lifts 275' gilded dome, resembling that of Hotel des
Inyalides in Paris. Bldg. is eclectic in style. At main entrances on 4 sides Corin-
thian columns support ornamental pediments. Principal feature of inter., finished
in marble, granite & finely carved native woods, is grand rotunda, colonnaded,
with statuary, mural by Edwin H. Blashfield & mosaics by Frederick Dielman. On
US 6 IOWA 647
main floor are battle flags of Iowa. On 2nd fL are Senate Chamber & House of
Representatives Room. Steps lead up to dome. On Capitol grounds are several
mons.: Soldiers & Sailors Mon. (1879;Harriet A.Ketchum,sculptor); Allison Mem*
(1913;Evelyn B.Longman,sculptor), comm. Sen. Wm. B. Allison of Dubuque; &
The Pioneers (1893;Carl Gerhardt,sculptor). Grave of Wilson Alex. Scott, SE.
cor. Capitol grounds, is marked with tablet; Scott donated part of Capitol site.
(6) E. 12th St. & Grand Ave., Ionic-columned, dome-topped, St Hist Mem. &
Art Bldg. (1899-1900), houses some of St.'s most valuable colls. In W. wing of
main floor are Hist. Lib., Aldrich Autograph Coll., Grenville M. Dodge Mem.
Room & Emerson Hough Mem. Room. In E. wing on main fL, mezzanine & 2nd
fl. is General Division of Iowa St. Lib. Portrait Gallery on 2nd fl. contains por-
traits of State's Govs. & prominent citizens; Mus., adj., contains pioneer relics &
mounted animals. Third fl. Mus. is devoted to prehist. & early Ind. objects. Also on
3rd fl. are Archives Division & World War Room. In basement is Industrial Exhibit
of carriages & automobiles & pioneer implements.
(7) University Ave. bet 25th & 28th Sts., Drake Univ. (est.1881), named for one of
its founders, Gen. Francis Marion Drake, is coed, institution occupying group of
brick buildings on 3-block campus. Cowles Lib. houses valuable special colls. Drake
Stadium, block N., seats 18,500. (8) Outstanding for its advanced modern design,
Des Moines Art Center, Greenwood Pk. facing Polk Blvd., completed in 1948, was
designed by Eliel Saarinen; it serves both as mus. with coll. of paintings & as art
study center. (9) In Waveland Pk., 48th St. & University Ave., is Drake Univ. Mun.
Obsexr. (O.on specified nights) with % 1 A" visual & photographic reflecting telescope.
(10) Woodland Ave. at 15th St., Hoyt Sherman Place (1877), mansion built by Gen.
Wm. T. Sherman's brother, Maj. Hoyt Sherman, & adj. modern annex, containing
auditorium, recr. & lib. rooms, & art gallery, comprise home of Des Moines
Women's Clubs. (11) 18th St. S. of Raccoon R. bridge, Waterworks Pk., 1,500-a.
tract with bird sanctuary, scenic roadways, horseback & hik. trls., greenhouses,
fountains & lagoons. (12) 6th Ave., just N. of Des Moines R., River View Pk. (boat,
dancing.amusements), is city's amusement center. (13) Greenwood Pk. & (14) Ash-
worth Pk., adj. each other at Polk Blvd. & Grand Ave., have hundreds of acres of
natural wooded grounds, sunken flower gardens, shelter houses & tennis courts. (15)
E. 9th St. & Mattern Ave., Union Pk. (pic.), has flower gardens, green lawns &
stately old trees. (16) E. end Grand Ave., Iowa St Fair Grounds are setting during
last wk. of Aug. of one of world's largest agric. expositions, attracting more than
500,000 visitors, with livestock, poultry, garden, dairy, cooking & canning, art, in-
dustrial & other exhibits. (17) Army Post Rd. & SW. 9th St., Ft Des Moines, opened
as cavalry post in 1903, was "Home of the WACs" during World War II, serving as
1st training center for Women's Army Corps. (18) 30th St. & Euclid Ave., U.S.
Veterans* Adm. Facility occupies oak-wooded 48-a. hilltop site.
Des Moines is at J. with US65 (see).
SIDE TRIP: Take St.163 (L) from Des Moines to Pella, 43m, sometimes called cleanest
city in Iowa, sett, by Dutch immigrants in 1847. Local products incl. bologna, cookies,
flour, canned goods, wagons & overalls, Venetian blinds. Annually in May, when thousands
of tulips bloom, inhabitants don Dutch costumes for festival. Pella Hist Mus., reprod. in
architecture & furnishings of Dutch home, displays relics, documents & home wares. Cen-
tral College, founded in 1853 as Bapt. Ch. institution, has been conducted since 1916 by
(Dutch) Reformed Ch. of America; among bldgs. on 20-a. campus are Goth. Doiiwstra
Chapel & Ludwig Lib. Oskaloosa, 60m, is quiet college town & farmers' marketing center,
sett, in 1843 by Quakers & later by Welsh coal miners. It was named for wife of Chief
Osceola, Oskaloosa ("Last of the Beautiful"). 1st coal mines in St. were developed near-by
about 1870 & worked until about 1910. W. side Market St. at N. edge of town, Wm. Penn
College (opened 1873) is 4-yr. coed, liberal arts college, conducted by Iowa Yearly Meet-
ing of the Religious Soc. of Friends, notable for emphasis on democratic community living
& student work program. Modern brick bldgs. on 30-a. campus incl. Wm. Penn Hall, con-
taining lib., astronomical observ., mus. with coll. of African relics, Ind. artifacts, geological
& natural hist, specimens & hist, materials &. white-columned Spencer Mem. Chapel (Georg.
Col.) Near campus is Friends* Meeting H. (1913.Gr.Rev.), 656 N. C. St University Park
at E. edge of town, Kletzing College (org.1905), coed, liberal arts institution, supported
by members of various Protestant evangelical churches, with several brick bldgs. in wooded
setting. Edmundsoa Mem. Pk. (pic.swim.) is 60-a. tract in S. part of city. Near E. entrance
is log Morgan Cabin (sm.fee), 1221 S. F. St, built in 1840's & furnished in pioneer style.
Cont (R) from Oskaloosa on US63 to Otramwa, 89m, spreading from both banks of Des
Moines R., whose name is white man's version of Ind. word meaning * 4 rippling waters."
N. Ottumwa is hilly sec. of fine homes, churches, pub. bldgs. & schools, seemingly remote
648 US 6 IOWA
from bustling industrial dist. that covers R. bottoms. Ottumwa is site of world's largest
independent pork processing plant & largest hay machinery plant; it has variety of other
industries. Settlement here sprang up almost overnight when site was thrown open May 1,
1843 & hundreds of pioneers made midnight dash across country to stake out claims. It
developed slowly until est. of John Morrell & Co. packing plant & opening of bituminous
coal beds in 1870's & 188Q's. In 1890 "Coal Palace" medieval-looking structure, much
turreted, veneered with glittering jet was built above reprod. of coal mine; & visitors
flocked to Mardi Gras & fair. Coal mining industry soon declined, however, & Ottumwa has
since depended chiefly on meat-packing. Outstanding feature of Wapello County Ctfa., 4th
& Court Sts., is statue of Chief Wapello of Fox Tribe surmounting apex over entrance.
129 N. Court St., Ottemwa Pub. Lib. has coll. of Babylonian tablets dating as far back as
2350 B.C. End of Hayne St., John MoireE & Co. Plant has more than 100 bldgs. covering
100 as. At 102m is J. with St.273.
Turn (R) here 13m to 1,130-a. L. Wapello St, Pfe. (cabins.pic.camp.bathh.swunJ.) "with
287-a. L. among wooded hills.
Sec. 2: DES MOINES to COUNCIL BLUFFS. 135.
US6 goes (W) from Des Homes through several small rural trading centers to J.
with US71 (see) at 79. 83. ATLANTIC was thought to be halfway bet. 2 oceans, &
coin was flipped to decide whether its name should be Pacific or Atlantic; Pacific
won, but when it was learned that other Midwest towns already had that name,
decision was reversed. Among chief industries are meat packing plants, factory
producing folding stoves & Army cots, & huge com & pumpkin cannery.
135. COUNCIL BLUFFS
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., 4th Ave. S. & S. 1st St. Swim: River Front
Pk.
Council Bluffs, stretching from high bluffs across lowlands to Mo. R. bank opp.
Omaha, is converging pt of 8 RR. lines & one of nation's largest mail transfer
pts. It is important farm market with huge grain elevators, drawing trade from
dist. checkered not only with corn & grain fields but also with vineyards of one
of Midwest's chief grape-growing areas; & it is biggest flower-growing center W. of
Miss,, with more than 100 greenhouses. Its industries turn out variety of articles.
But in residential dists., removed from bustling RR. yards, it has air of peace &
quiet
Inds. first met along R. bluffs here to sell furs to Fr. traders, & explorers Lewis &
Clark camped near-by in 1804., Itinerant traders & trappers later designated whole
bluff territory along this part of Mo. as Council Bluffs. Francis Guittar took up
residence on site in 1827 as agent of Amer. Fur Co. In 1837, Potawatami Inds. were
moved into reg. & Fed. troops were est, in temporary camp to protect them from
other tribes; year following, Father Pierre Jean De Smet arrived & for 3 yrs. con-
ducted mission, using camp blockh. as a church. Following arrival of Mormons led
by Orson Hyde in 1846, settlement known as Kanesville in honor of Thos. L. Kane,
friendly Army officer, grew up. It became stopping place for travelers during Cal.
gold rush of 1849, attracting gamblers, traders, thieves & desperadoes. Departure
of whole Mormon pop., numbering nearly 8,000 in this vie. by 1850, to Utah in
1852 left town without gov.; remaining 1,000 residents reorganized & renamed
community Council Bluffs. In same yr. Grenville M. Dodge came to survey Platte
R. Valley for RR.; it is said that conversation about RRs. held here in 1859 by
Dodge <& Abr. Lincoln influenced latter's choice in 1863, as Pres. of U.S., of Council
Bluffs as E. terminus of U.P. By 1870, 5 RRs. had made conns, with U.P. here.
Development of trading & mfg. followed.
PTS. OF INT.: Boulders with bronze tablets mark several of chief hist, sites (1)
E. Broadway & Union Sts,, Site of Blocks., built by Capt. D. B. Moore's troops
in Aug. 1837; (2) E. Broadway & State St., Site of Father De Smefs Mission, est
May 1838; & (3) N. side Bayliss Park, 1st Ave. & Pearl St., Mormon TrL (4) Lewis
& Clark Mon. (1935;Harry Stinson, designer), 4 m N. of business dist. on Scenic
Rainbow Dr., comm. Lewis & Clark's council with Oto & Winnebago Inds. in 1804.
(5) 1512 S. Main St, Mem. for Grenville M. Dodge is stone marker placed in 1922
on 70th anniversary of his mapping route for Rock I. RR. across Iowa. (6) 605 S.
3rd St, GrenviUe Dodge Residence (1870), maintained with orig. furnishings & art
works, is Council Bluffs showplace. (7) Point Lookout, head of Oakland Dr. &
Lafayette Ave., Lincoln Mon., tall granite shaft comm. Abr. Lincoln's visit to city,
US 61 IOWA 649
Aug. 12-14, 1859. (8) Lincoln Pk., Military Ave. & Oakland Dr., contains Log
Cabin (1934), serving as mus., which contains Ind. artifacts & hist, relics. (9) At E.
portal of U.P. Bridge, W. end of 12th Ave., is 7' tall Bronze Buffalo Head (1916;
CaptEdw.Kenny,sculptor), welcoming travelers to land of buffalo W. of Mo. R. (10)
Golden Spike Mop,, concrete replica of RR. spike, 56' high, marks E. terminus of
U.P. (11) In Fairview Cemetery, E. end of Lafayette Dr. is outstanding mem. in vie.,
bronze Angel of Death (1918.Dan.Chester French,sculptor), comm. Anne B. (Mrs.
Grenville M.) Dodge. Cemetery also contains Grave of Amelia lenks Bloomer*
pioneer in woman suffrage movement & advocate of dress reforms, one of which
public dubbed "bloomers" for her; she died in Council Bluffs in 1894. (12) 1132 E.
Pierce St., built into bluffs, with more than 121,000' under glass, J. F. Wilcox
Greenhouses are said to have 2 of world's biggest rose houses. (13) 1300 Canning
St., Lainson Greenhouses, with 250,000' of glass covering, specialize in flowers &
tropical plants; more than 3,500,000 roses a yr. are grown.
Council Bluffs is at J. with US75 (see).
US 61 IOWA
DUBUQUE, IOWA (13^ from Dickeyville, Wis.) (S) to IOWA-MO. ONE (26
from Canton, Mo.). 200. US61
Via: Maquoketa, Davenport, Muscatine, Burlington, Fairfield, Ft. Madison, & Keokuk.
RRs. parallel most of route from Maquoketa (S) & bus lines throughout. Accoms.:
Chiefly in cities.
US61 winds through hills & valleys of E. Iowa to Davenport, skirts Miss. R. shore
(S) to Muscatine, cuts short distance inland & then approaches R. bank again in
Iowa's SE. cor.
Sec. 1: DUBUQUE to DAVENPORT. 76.
0. US61 crosses Wis.-Iowa Line on Eagle Pt. Bridge (toll) over Miss. R.
1. DUBUQUE (see US20) is at J. with US20. 4. J. with US52-67.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. at 2m.
Turn (L) here 1m to Crystal L. Cave (fee.guides), with tunnel more than 3,000' long,
containing stalagmites & stalactites & underground L.
St. Donates, llm, is small village, sett, by immigrants from Luxembourg, with picturesque
2-story yellow stone, green-shuttered Hs. of French design. On steep Hill is 4-story stone
convent; & at top of bluff, reached by winding path past Stations of the Cross, is repro-
duction of Chapel du Bilchen in Luxembourg. Beilevue, 21 m, river-front town, has pottery
works & oil burner factory. Bellevue St. Pk. (lodge.camp.pic.f.golf), S. end of town, is
149-a. tract on rocky promontory overlooking Miss. R.
At 5. is J. with US151.
SIDE TRIP: Turn (R) on latter 7m to J. with improved Rd. & (R) here 2m to gray stone
Goth. New Meileray Abbey of Trappist order, whose members live strictly apart from out-
side world & maintain almost complete silence. Named for Mt. Meileray Monastery in
Ireland, institution was founded in 1849; it is self-supporting.
34. MAQUOKETA, seat of Jackson Cty., is site of Ellis Mus. of Archaeology &
Anthropology (fee), containing extensive coll. of fossils & relics.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.130 (R) from Maquoketa 9m to Hl-a. Maquokeia Caves St. MOBL
(camp.pic.), containing caverns, natural bridge, balanced rock, & other geological curi-
osities.
54. DEWITT (see US30), is at J. with US30. 76. DAVENPORT (see US6), is at J.
with US6.
Sec. 2: DAVENPORT to IOWA-MO. LINE. 124.
At 18. is J. with St. 160, leading (R) 2^ to 322-a. Wild Cat Den St Pk. (camp.pic.),
forested area with cavern & unusual rock formations, containing old Grist Mill &
Dam (c.1848). On E. edge of FAIRPORT, 21., fish-rearing ponds of U.S. Fish
Hatchery stretch for half a mile bet hy. & R.
29. MUSCATINE, mfg. & trading city, calls itself "The Port City of the Corn Belt"
It spreads out from riverbank with old brick bldgs. lining narrow, brick-paved
sts. that slope away to dip bet. Mils. Name is derived from that of Mascoutin Ind.
tribe, who camped near-by. Trading post was est. here in 1833. Jas. W. Casey staked
50 US 61 IOWA
claim in 1835 & began cutting timber to fuel steamboats. Site was surveyed & place
named Bloomington in 1836; name Muscatine was adopted 13 yrs. later. New
settlers, many of them German, flocked in. Muscatine soon became important
steamboat landing. Sawmill & pork packing plant were set up in the 1840's. Mus-
catine has since gone through 3 eras of industrial development. First, beginning
about 1860, was dominated by lumber industry & later by sash & door mfg. About
1890 began manufacture of pearl buttons from Miss. R. mussel shells; Muscatine
soon claimed rank of "Pearl Button Capital of the World." Present era is one of
diversified industry. Sash, door & other millwork products & pearl buttons still are
important products: Muscatine produces more of last than any other city. But other
industries produce pulley & pumps, saddles & harness, tools & toys, canned vege-
tables, meat & poultry products, & other articles. PTS. OF INT.: 304 Iowa Ave.,
Pub. Lib. houses coll. of hist, materials & early pictures & relics. 211 W. 8th St.,
oldest of city's surviving early bldgs. is Old First Mathias Ch. (1842), on grounds
of present Mathias Ch. 109 Walnut St., Mark Twain H. was home during 1853-54
of Mark Twain, who lived with his widowed mother & brothers, Henry & Orion,
latter part owner of Muscatine "Journal." Washington St. just off River Rd. at NE.
edge of town, Weed Pk*, with natural amphitheater, 2 artificial Ls. & wildflower
preserve, overlooks R. from a bluff. It affords good view of U.S. Dam & Lock No. 16
across Miss.
51. WAPELLO, chartered in 1856, is peaceful town sprawling along Iowa R. 79.
BURLINGTON is scattered over 4 hills along Miss., its sts. climbing slopes from
riverside docks & bus. dist. at irregular angles. Descendants of early German, Irish,
& Swedish settlers still predominate, clustering in their own distinctive settlements:
Dutchtown (German), West Hill (Swedish), & Hibernia (Irish). Burlington is im-
portant mfg. & distributing center; it turns out electric motors, auto trailers, bags,
fertilizer, building materials, clothing, & other products. Its 23,000-a. Iowa Ord-
nance Plant, built in 1941, manufactures ammunition. Site was known as Sho-ko-
kon (Flint Hills) to Inds., who valued it for flint found there; & Ind. village was est.
here temporarily in 1820. After Black Hawk Treaty opened terr. to settlement in
1833, white families staked claims; in Aug. of that year Dr. Wm. R. Ross opened 1st
store. John Gray, native of Vermont, arriving in 1834, was allowed to name place
for his home town. Here, in temporary capitol bldg., 2nd legislature of Terr, of
Wis. convened in Nov. 1837; & when Terr, of Iowa was created in 1838, 1st Legis-
lative Assembly met & appointed commission to choose permanent capital. During
next decade town grew rapidly as hundreds of steamers docked to discharge freight
& load pork, lard, & farm produce. Burlington's 3 pork packing plants made it
Torkopoiis of Iowa." Completion of 2nd continuous railroad from Chicago to
Miss. R. opp. Burlington in 1855 & beginning of operations on Burlington & Mo.
RR. in 1856 soon made town bustling rail center. Miss R. bridged in 1868. By
1871 Burlington had 7 RRs. During 1870*s it throve as sawmill center & lumber
shipping pt, handling logs rafted down Miss. As lumber industry declined toward
end of cent, other mfg. enterprises were est.
PTS. OF INT.: S. end Main St., Crapo Pk. (camp.playground.swim.), overlooking
Miss., has boulder memorial marking spot where Zebulon M. Pike is said to have
landed Aug. 23, 1805, & unfurled Amer. flag, & bronze plaque near Black Hawk
Spring, comm. Ind. chief, who hunted here. Bronze plaques mark Site of Old Zion,
1st Iowa Terr. Capitol, W. side of 3rd St. bet Columbia & Washington Sts., & Site
of 1st Masonic Hall in Iowa, SE. cor. Main & Columbia Sts. 311 Washington St.,
Hawk-Eye Gazette Bldg* houses St's oldest newspaper in continuous publication,
with files running back to 1837 (availat pub.lib.). 2700 West Ave., weatherboarded
Log Cabin (1833) at Hay homestead, built by Jeremiah Smith, Jr., is thought to be
oldest house in Des Moines County.
SIDE TRIP: Take US34 (R) from Burlington to West Burlington, 3m ? dominated by its
C.B.& Q. RR. repair shops. Here in small pk. at W. edge of town is Our Lady of Grace
Grotto, dome-shaped structure whose exter. walls contain stones from every St. in Union
& almost every country in world. Mount Pleasant, 28m, was site of Iowa's 1st cth., built in
1839. Iowa Wesieyan College, 4-year coed. Meth. college occupying 25-a. wooded campus
in heart of town, had its beginning here in 1844. At N. end of Main St. is imposing old
Harfan H. former residence of Jas. Harlan, pres. of Iowa Wesieyan, U.S. Sen., & Abr.
Lincoln's Sec'y of the Interior, whose daughter Mary married President's son Robert.
US 61 IOWA 651
Turn (L) from Mount Pleasant on SU33 to 110-a. Oaldand Mills St Recr. Reserve
(camp.pic.f.), 4m ? forested & rocky, with L.
At 45m is 25-a. Woodthrush St. Mon. (pic.), abounding in bird life & wild flowers. Fair-
field, 51^, i s an agric. trading center with several small mfg. plants. Fab. Lib. Mas. con-
tains archaeological, Ind., pioneer, & nat. hist, exhibits. OH Settler's Pk. surrounds Bonifield
Cabin (1836). Parsons College (opened 1875), N. edge of town, on 65-a. rolling, wooded
campus, is Presb. institution.
97. FORT MADISON covers flatlands near Miss,, hemmed in by high hills &
steep bluffs. It derives name from Ind. trading post est. here in 1808 just after
inauguration of Pres. James Madison, which was abandoned in 1813 when Chief
Black Hawk & his allies laid siege to it. Town grew up around lone chimney which
remained standing. Here in 1833 John H. Knapp est. another trading post. By
1847 S. D. Morrison was making plows by hand for local trade, beginning farm-
tool industry that still flourishes. Later, flour & lumber mills were erected. Steam-
boating & lografting added boisterous notes to life of town. Another growing
period followed Santa Fe's est. here of freight & passenger division pt., at W. end
of its bridge across Miss. Paper mills were opened in 1879, & manufacture of plows
was begun on large scale. In early 1900's pearl button & wax-paper bread-wrapper
factories began production. W. A. Sheaffer Pen Plant, founded here in 1913, one of
1st to use bar & lever filling device in fountain pens, is today Fort Madison's largest
industrial enterprise. PTS. OF INT.: Ave. H & 4th St., Lone Chimney Mon., marks
site of ruins of old ft. for which city was named. Design of Lee County Ctfa., 7th
Ave. & Ave. F, oldest in use in Iowa, is attributed to Father Samuel Mazzuchelli,
pioneer priest & architect; it is distinguished by immense Tuscan columns. AtcM-
son, Topeka & Santa Fe RIL Drawbridge across Miss, is largest drawbridge in world,
At E. end of Ave. E is Iowa St Penitentiary. At 100.5. is J. with St.2.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Farmington, 20m, platted in 1839, in fertile Des Moines R.
Valley, with coal mines & stone quarries near-by.
(L) from Farmington 0.5m on gravel Rd. is 127-a. Farmmgtoa St Pk. (camp.picX),
withL.
St.2 cont. to J. with St.l, 33m.
Take latter (R) 3m; turn (L) here 1m to 2,216-a. Lacey-Keosauqua St Pk. (cabinsJodge.
camp.swim.boatf.golf), largest of St. pks., in great horseshoe bend of Des Moines R.,
heavily wooded, with 30-a. L. Stl cont. to Keosauqoa, 4m } whose Ind. name means
"great bend." Van Buren County Ctfa. (1842-43) has solid oak timbers more than foot
square & thick brick walls. Bonneyview (1839), overlooking R., is town's oldest H.
110. MONTROSE, close to Miss., is site of one of 1st permanent settlements made
by white men in Iowa. Here, Louis Honore Tesson, Fr.-Canadian, est in 1799,
trading post & planted apple orchards 1st in St., comm. by plaque in Montrose
schoolyard, 3 blocks (L) from US61. Around 1st Ft Des Moines (its site marked
by plaque half block from RR. sta. near tracks), est here in 1834 & maintained
until 1836, grew up settlement In 1837 D. W. Kilbourne laid out town later called
Mount of Roses, for wild roses growing on near-by hillsides, which was contracted
to Montrose. Steam ferry connects Montrose with Nauvoo, 111.
SIDE TRIP: Take Lake Shore Dr. (L) from Montrose to Galland School St Mon. 3m,
replica of Iowa's 1st schoolh., opened here by Dr. Isaac Galland in 1830.
122. KEOKUIC, rich in hist, associations, lies at mouth of Des Moines R. on Miss.
Keokuk trades with farmers, manufactures variety of goods, & exports hundreds of
tons of fish. 1st white man to settle here was Di. Samuel C. Muir, who erected log
cabin in 1820 for his Ind. wife & family. Moses Stillwell & Mark Aldrich opened
trading post in 1829 for Amer. Fur Co.; & that same year, at July 4th celebration,
it was proposed that settlement be named for Chief Keokuk of Sac & Fox. In 1837
town was platted by Isaac Galland, agent of New York Land Co. During next
decade Keokuk became mfg. & jobbing hqs. for pioneer Middle West. Its position
at foot of Des Moines rapids on Miss, made it pt at which all steamboat passengers
& freight had to be unloaded & lightered or forwarded by land. This obstacle to
navigation was bypassed after 1856 by RR. running 12 m upriver, & finally solved
by Gov. canal opened in 1877. PTS. OF INT.: (1) 3rd & Main Sts., Pub. Lib. (1881)
houses coll. of curios, incl. city's 1st directory (1856) & menu set in print by Mark
Twain when he was working in Keokuk job-printing plant of his brother, Orion. (2)
2nd & Main Sts., Old Ivins H. (1850.now Hawkeye Hotel) was Twain's boarding
652 US 65 and US 71 IOWA
house; here he made his 1st after-dinner speech. (3) S. 7th St. at city limits, Rees
Pk. contains old Rees Homestead, weatherboarded log cabin built by Thomas Rees,
who printed Mark Twain's 1st paid articles in Keokuk "Saturday Post." (4) 15th St.
& Grand Ave., Rand Pk. contains mon. & statue marking Grave of CMef Keokuk*
(5) At W. end of Cedar St. is Iowa's only Nat. Cemetery, est. in 1861. (6) Foot of
Orleans & Franklin Sts., Keokok Dam (1910-13), nearly mile long, is gravity type,
containing approximately same amount of masonry as one of great pyramids of
Egypt It forms 100-square-mile lake extending 65^ (N). Gov. Drydock & Gov.
Lock, near Iowa shore, are among largest ever built. (7) Hydroelectric Plant (con-
ducted trips hourly 9-11, 1-3), farther out in stream, was equipped with turbines
which, at time of construction, were 4 times size of any previously built. 124. US61
crosses Des Moines R., which is Iowa-Mo. Line.
US 65 IOWA
fOWA-MTNN. LINE (1 l m from Albert Lea, Minn.) (S) to LINEVILLE, IOWA (58 m
from Chillicothe, Mo.). 223. US65
Via: Mason City, Iowa Falls, Des Moines, Indianola. RRs. parallel route bet. Iowa-
Minn. Line & Indianola. Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
US65 cuts through central Iowa, traversing typical prairie country, through which
meander shallow rivers. S. of Des Moines it passes through reg. overgrown with
virgin timber.
Sec. I: IOWA-MINN. LINE to DES MOINES. 147.
4. NORTHWOOD, on Shellrock R., was settled largely by Norwegians, beginning
in 1853. MASON CITY (see US18), 25., is at J. with US18. 51. J. with gravel Rd.
leading (R) 3 m to 259-a. Beed's L. Si Pk. (pic.swim.boatf.), with 130-a. L. 53.
HAMPTON, seat of Franklin Cty., was founded in 1856. 66. J. with US20 (see), with
which US65 unites to IOWA FALLS at 72. 83. J. with St.57.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to Eldora, 8^, orig. named Eldorado when John Ellsworth
thought he had discovered gold here in 1851; he was mistaken, & name was later shortened.
At 9m is 548-a. Pine L. St Pk. (cabins.lodge.camp.pic.swun.boat.f.golf), with 2 Ls. among
wooded hills., several Ind. mounds, & fish hatchery.
Hy. passes through several small rural trading centers on its way to J. with US30
(see) at 109. 147. DES MOINES (see US6) is at J. with US6.
Sec. 2: DES MOINES to LINEVILLE. 76.
17. INDIANOLA, seat of Warren Cty. since 1849, is site of Simpson College (est.
1860), Meth. Episc. liberal arts college with 20-a. campus. 23. 774-a. L. AHQUABI
ST. PK. (cabins.lodge.camp.pic.swim.boat.f.), rough & wooded area with L. 43. J.
with US34.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to Qiaiiton, 9m, on Chariton R., farm trading & shipping
center.
63.J.withSt2.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to Centervifle, 34m, seat of Appanoose Cry., platted in 1846,
& center of dist. rich in coal & gypsum.
US65 cont. to LINEVILLE, 76. through which runs Iowa-Mo. Line. It grew up
around store built in 1851 half in Iowa & half in Mo. by pioneer merchant who sold
clothing & groceries on Iowa side & liquor on Mo. side.
US 71 IOWA
IOWA-MINN. LINE (82 from Redwood Falls, Minn.) (S) to IOWA-MO. LINE
(64^ from St Joseph, Mo.). 242. US71
Via: Spirit L., Spencer, Carroll, Clarinda, RRs. & bus lines parallel route in parts
Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
Prairie sec. of N. Iowa through which US71 passes is treeless & flat, except where
hy. dips into timber-fringed R. valley. S. of Carroll, rolling hills appear like waves on
prairie, & soft crumbling bluffs line R. & banks.
US 75 IOWA 653
Sec. 1: IOWA-MINN. LINE to CARROLL. 129.
5. J. with St.9.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) 7m to J. with improved Rd.
Turn (R) here 1m to 181-a. Ft Defiance St. Hist Preserve (pic.) where Ft. Defiance was
staffed with cavalry in 1862-63 to protect pioneer settlers against marauding Sioux.
There is modem log-cabin shelter.
Esthervslle, 8m, on bank of W. Fork of Des Monies R. River was sett, in 1857 & named for
Mrs. Esther Ridley, wife of one of men who helped plat town.
11. SPIRIT L. lies S. of 5,500-a. L. of same name, Iowa's largest glacier-created L.
(f.swim.duck hunt.). Surrounding reg. is dotted with 19 Ls. US71 now skirts 3,788-a.
WEST OKOBOJI L., 2nd largest in reg., on which lies at 16. summer resort & winter
sports center of ARNOLD'S PK., sett in 1856. Almost all of orig. 46 settlers were
killed in March, 1857 by band of Sioux led by Inkpadutah. They are comm. by
SPIRIT L. MASSACRE MON., at 17., marking several of their graves. Near-by
Gardner Cabin, which conts. relics of event & Ind. articles, was home of 1st victims
of uprising, Mr. & Mrs. Rowland Gardner & their children. Pillsbury Pt St L.
Preserve (pic.) adjoins, commanding fine views of L. At 31, is J. with US 18, with
which US71 unites to Spencer (see US 18) at 34. 72. STORM L. is site of Buena
Vista College (founded 1884), removed here from Fort Dodge in 1891, liberal arts
college under Presb. auspices. L. Shore Dr. leads (L) to J. with gravel Rd., 1.5 m , (R)
on which is 18-a. Storm L. St Reserve (pic.swim.boatf.), 2.5 m , adj. 3,060-a. Storm
L. 88. EARLY. J. with US20 (see). 103. L. VIEW is summer resort (cottages, amuse-
ment facils.golf) on shore of Black Hawk L. 105. J. with gravel Rd. leading (R) 1.5 m
to 353-a. Black Hawk L. St Recr. Reserve (camp.pic.swim.boat.f.), with Iowa's
largest fish-rearing ponds. 129. CARROLL (see US30). J. with US30.
Sec. 2: CARROLL to IOWA-MISSOURI LINE. 113.
27. AUDUBON was platted in 1878 by Chicago, Rock L & Peoria RR. Cth.
square contains 1st Log Cabin in cty., moved here from orig. site, with old fur-
nishings. 50. J. with US6 (see). 79. J. with US34.
SIDE TRIP: (A) Turn (R) on US 34 to Red Oak, 13m, seat of Montgomery Cty., which has
large calendar-manufacturing plant.
(B) Take US34 (L) to Coming, 15m, seat of Adams Cty., platted in 1855. At 18m is J.
with dirt Rd.
Turn (L) on this 1.5m to Site of Icarian Community, marked by several old wooden
bldgs., where Icarians, group of Fr. colonists led to Amer. in 1848 by political theorist
Etienne Cabet, est. themselves in late 1850's & for nearly 4 decades carried on experi-
ment in collective living.
US34 cont. to Creston, 37m, in heart of Iowa's bluegrass country, which in 1889 became
hqs. of Blue Grass League of SW. Iowa & site of turreted, bluegrass-thatched Blue Grass
Palace. Since 1869 Creston has been division hqs. of C.B.& Q. RR., whose shops, yards,
& roundh. make it busy place.
85. VBLLISCA, whose residents are predominantly of Dutch & Irish descent,
bears name of Ind. origin said to mean "pretty place." 101. CLARINDA, was
named for Clarinda Buck, girl popular among early settlers. First postmaster est
Ms office here in a dugout in 1856.
SIDE TRIP: (A) Take St.2 (R) from Clarinda to Sfaenandoa!i, 19m, founded in 1870 with ad-
vent of RR., which owes its name to resemblance early settlers saw between Nishnabotna R.
Valley at this point & Shenandoah Valley of Va. Shenandoah has number of large nurseries
& seed and mail-order houses.
(B) Take St.2 (L) from Clarinda to Bedford, 20m, seat of Taylor Cty., (L) 4m from which
is 386-a. L. of Tliree Fires St. Recr. Reserve (cabins.pic.swim.boatX) with 125-a. L.
At 113. is IOWA-MO. LINE.
US 75 IOWA
IOWA-MINN. LINE (17 m from Luverne, Minn.) (S) to COUNCIL BLUFFS,
IOWA. 177. US75
Via: Le Mars, Sioux City, & Missouri Valley. RRs. parallel route bet. Le Mars &
Council Bluffs bus line bet. Valley & Council Bluffs. Accoms.: Chiefly in cities.
US74 traverses E. Edge of Gt Plains to Sioux City & follows Mo. R. (S) to Council
Bluffs. 6. ROCK RAPIDS takes name from rapids in near-by Rock R. 22. J. with
654 US 40 KANSAS
US 18 (see). 50. LE MARS, named for 1st initials of 6 young women who visited
settlement in early days. It began in early 1880's as colony of Brit, settlers. Brit,
customs were preserved; colonists rode to hounds & went steeplechasing, played
polo, dressed for dinner. Venture failed, & people of other nationalities took over.
At S. edge of town is Western Union College (founded 1900), controlled by Evan-
gelical Ch. 75. SIOUX CITY (see US20). J. with US20 (see). US75 now traverses
flat bottomlands, where Mo. R. (R) meanders through wide valley bordered by
brown crumbling cliffs. 111. ONAWA was platted in 1857. It is noted for its tree-
lined streets, 150' wide. St. 165 leads (R) short distance to Lewis & Clark St. Pk. (315
as.lodge.pic.boat.f.) on sandy-shored Blue L. near which Lewis & Clark camped.
150. MISSOURI VALLEY lies by Mo. R. just below high bluffs. 1st settler came
in 1854. Town is trading & shipping pt. for farm produce, especially hogs. Mo. Val-
ley is at J. with US30 (see). 173. COUNCIL BLUFFS (see US6) is at J. with US6.
US75 bridges Mo. R., which is IOWA-NEB. LINE at 177.
US 40 KANSAS
KANSAS CITY, KANS. (W) to KANS.-COLO. LINE (c.7* from Arapahoe, Colo.).
461.5. US40
Via: Lawrence, Topeka, Manhattan, Salina, Hays, & Oakley. RR. parallels route
throughout. Accoms.: At short intervals.
US40 follows Kansas R. through rolling country, traverses central Kans. wheat
belt, & crosses High Plains area rising toward Rocky Mts.
Sec. 1: KANSAS CITY, KANS. to HAYS. 300.5.
0. On intercity viaduct over Kansas R. from Kansas City, Mo., US40 crosses Kans.-
Mo. Line.
6. KANSAS CITY, Kans.
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., 727 Minnesota Ave. Swim, at pub. pks.
Amer. Royal Livestock & Horse Show, Oct. or 1st of Nov.
Kansas' 2nd largest city & Wyandotte Cty. seat, Kansas City, Kans., preserves its
own identity from its Mo. neighbor, together with which it makes up Greater Kan-
sas City. Spreading over hills & bluffs N. & S. of Kansas R., it has irregularly pat-
terned network of sts., having grown out of merger of 8 independent towns; it has
5 "main" streets, each centered on its own business & industrial district. "Kaw
Point," neck of land bet. Kansas & Mo. Rs., where Lewis & Clark camped in 1804,
became in 1818 part of reserv. granted Delaware Inds., from whom in 1843 it was
purchased by Wyandot tribe, emigrating from Sandusky, Ohio. In same year Wyan-
dot, who were farmers, educated, & more white than Ind. through intermarriage,
laid out Wyandot City, which within year had church, council house, communally-
owned store, & 1st free school in Kans. When Cal. gold rush of 1849 brought white
emigrants, Wyandot began to demand territorial status for Kans.-Neb. reg. They
were granted in 1855 rights of citizens with their lands in severalty, & promptly
disposed of their property. White settlers who succeeded them renamed place Wyan-
dotte & est. p. o. <& 2 banks in 1857. Rival town of Quindaro, founded a little to
N. & W. on bank of Missouri R. in 1856, soon offered competition. Both towns built
Rd. to Kansas R. & est. free ferry. In 1859 Wyandotte was inc. & erected on levee
block of business bldgs., in one of which was written in July 1859 constitution of
Kans., est. Wyandotte Cty. & making Wyandotte its seat.
Est. in R. bottoms of a slaughter house in 1860 & a packing house in 1868 laid
basis for place's best-known industry. Charles F. Adams, descendant of Pres. John
6 John Quincy Adams, persuaded Plankington & Armour to remove in 1871 pack-
ing house they had set up in Mo. to site near his stockyards. Around what is now
Armour packing plant grew up new town, Armourdale, inc. in 1871. Around other
packing houses & RR., completed to Topeka in 1866, grew up other towns: Arm-
strong (1871); old Kansas City, Kans. (inc. 1872); Riverview (1879). In 1880 Wyan-
dotte absorbed Riverview; in 1886, Armstrong, Armourdale & Kansas City. Name
of latter was then adopted for consolidated city. Two other settlements est across
Kansas R. to S. Rosedale (1872), which received impetus from rolling mill opened
iix 1875, & Argentine (1880), which grew up around Santa Fe Ry. shops & yards &
US 40 KANSAS 655
Consolidated Kansas City Smelting & Refining Co. plant were later absorbed,
latter in 1909, former in 1922. Quindaro, having rescinded its inc., was absorbed
by natural expansion.
During last quarter of 19th cent., thousands of "Exodusters," freed Negroes from
S., swelled population, settling along Jersey Creek in "Rattlebone Hollow" & in old
Quindaro or along levee in scrapwood shanties of "Mississippi Town." During same
period there was great influx of European immigrants of peasant stock Croats,
Czechs, Slovakians, Poles, Germans, Russians who settled around packing houses.
City developed into important industrial center. Today its stockyards & meat-pack-
ing houses are 2nd only to Chicago's; & not even Chicago has aU of "Big Four"
Armour, Cudahy, Swift & Wilson with complete processing plants, as Kansas City
has. Hay market & grain storage facilities are world's largest; animal serum plants,
largest in nation. Soap factories, fabricating steel mills, flour mills, oil refineries,
RR. shops & yards, & other enterprises contribute to economic stability.
Public bldgs. include: (1) 7th St. bet. Ann & Barrett Aves., Wyandotte County Cth.
(1927); (2) 7th St. bet. Barnett & Tauromee Aves., Soldiers' & Sailors' Bldg. (1924);
& (3) Huron Pk., Carnegie Lib. (1920-24). (4) Minnesota Ave., bet. 6th & 7th Sts.,
Huron Pk., contains Man. Rose Garden & (5) Wyandot Nat Cemetery. Latter, with
graves of many Wyandot chiefs dating from 1844 on, was reserved by Wyandot in
treaty of 1855; when business interests in 1906 pushed bill through Congress author-
izing its sale, Wyandot descendants carried litigation to Supreme Court, where
Lydia B. Conley of Wyandot Zane family pleaded case, being 1st woman to appear
before court. Although Supreme Court upheld Congressional bill, Congress in 1913
was persuaded by aroused public sentiment to repeal its statute & convert cemetery
into city pk., extending sepulchral rights to Wyandot. City's educational institutions
incL: (6) State Ave. bet. llth & 12th Sts., Kans. St. Sen. for Blind; (7) 27th & Grant
Sts., Western Univ. (est.c.1862), coed. Jr. college maintained by African Meth.
Episc. Ch. (8) From end of Mo. Pacific Bridge, Minnesota Ave. & 2nd Sts., Pano-
ramic View, overlooking confluence of Mo. & Kansas Rs.
16. J. with Corum Rd. leading (R) 2.5^ to 1,500-a. Wyandotte Recr. Pk. (1,500 as.;
swim.boat.pic.f.), surrounding 305-a. L. with 20 m shore line drive. 20. J. with US73.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Lansing, gm, centering around St. Penitentiary & Industrial
Farm For Women. St Mary's College (est.1860), 10m, is Cath. girls' high school & college,
with wooded 160-a. campus. U.S. Veterans Adm. Facility, adj., housed in c.100 bldgs.
on high bluffs above Mo. R., cares for disabled vets, of all wars.
14m Leavenworth, 1st inc. town in Kans., claims to be best known city of its size in
U.S. because of its 2 famous gov. institutions, Ft. Leavenworth & Fed. Penitentiary. On
W. bank of Mo. R., it spreads over high bluffs & rolling hills. Retail trading center of
rich agric. area, it is also industrial center. Here in 1827 Col. Henry H. Leavenworth
erected Cantonment Leavenworth, now Ft. Leavenworth, to protect traffic on Santa Fe
Trl.; farmers & missionaries attached to post were Kansas' 1st white settlers. After
passage of Kans.-Neb. Bill (May 30,1854), meeting of pro-slavers at Weston, Mo.,
projected settlement here; town company, 1st in Kans., platted 320-a. tract, which by
end of June was covered by squatters' tents & shacks. In 1855 Leavenworth became
Territory's 1st inc. town. Early elections were corrupt, marked by ballot-box-stuffing
tactics of dominant pro-slavery element. Business prospered, however, as industrial
enterprises were est. in 1856, among them Abernathy Furniture Co. plant, today Leaven-
worth's biggest; in same year Russell, Majors & Waddell made Leavenworth hqs. for
their vast transportation system. By 1860 Leavenworth with population of 8,0(X) was
metropolis of Kans. It remained until 1880 State's largest city gay place, with theaters,
baseball team, fine mansions but ultimately fell behind when Kansas City was pre-
ferred to it as RR. terminus.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Shawnee & Main Sts., former Planters* H. (1856), now apartment
h., was famous hostelry. (2) 511 Shawnee St, Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
(1864-68;Romanes.) was one of most imposing churches W. of Mississippi in its time.
(3) Metropolitan & Grant Aves., Ft. Leavenworth, occupying 7,000-a. reserv. crossed
by paved hys. & tree-shaded drives, is community in itself, containing 700 bldgs. On
this site 4 companies of Third Regiment under Col. Henry H. Leavenworth's command
erected in 1827 log & bark huts of Cantonment Leavenworth, Post became outfitting pt.
for Mex. War troops & later for Cal. gold seekers. It was designated by Congress as
temporary capital of Territory in 1854 & for time served as Gov. Reeder's residence. In
all subsequent wars it has played important role. (4) S. end Scott Ave., Command &
General Staff College, housed in consolidated group of yellow brick bldgs. surmounted
by a clock tower, ranks 1st among Army officers* training schools; it was est. in 1881 by
order of Gen. Wm. T. Sherman. Other pts. of int. are: (5) 1 Scott Ave., Residence of
656 US 40 KANSAS
Commandant (c.1861); (6) Scott & Grant Aves., GCBL U. S. Grant Moe. (1889.by Lorado
Taft); (7) 12-14 Sumner Place, Former EL of Gov. Reeder (1834.brick extension 1879);
(8) 17 Sumner Place, CoL Style Brick BL (c.1840), formerly U.S. Military Prison & Dis-
ciplinary Barracks. (9) Ft Leavenworth Mes., McPherson Ave. W. of 17th Infantry Bar-
racks, contains old wheeled vehicles, Ind. artifacts, & dioramas depicting Kans. hist. (10)
Opp. entrance to golf course on Biddle Blvd., Nat Cemetery contains graves of soldiers
who have fought in all country's wars; here is buried Gen. Henry H. Leavenworth. (11)
13th & Metropolitan Sts., Fed, Penitentiary is towering city of gray stone & red brick on
1,000-a. grounds. Built in 1895, it houses about 3,000 inmates, who work in factories pro-
ducing brooms, brushes, shoes, clothing & furniture or on 1 of the 2 prison farms.
38m. Atcliison lies on bank of "Great Western Bend" of Mo. R. in hill-fringed glacial amphi-
theater. Important as retail trade & wholesale & jobbing center, it ranks 10th in U.S. in
flour milling industry & has 3 big iron foundries, as well as RR. shops, feed mills, seed
concerns, industrial alcohol plant & many other enterprises. Town was organized &
platted July 27, 1854 by 18 men, all but 2 from Platte Cty., Mo., who named town for
Mo.'s pro-slavery Senator David R. Atchison. Inc. in Aug. 1855. Atchison had active pro-
Southern faction, who published vehement pro-slavery paper, "Squatter Sovereign," &
were likely to tar & feather Free Staters. In 1859, 1st telegraph from W. to E. was dis-
patched here & city became 1st W. of Mississippi to secure direct connection with St. Louis
& E. when it decided to issue bonds for RR. With good steamboat landing & best wagon
road to W., Atchison leaped ahead when in 1862 Ben Holladay bought bankrupt Russell,
Majors & Waddell Freighting Co. & moved its hqs. here from Leavenworth & in 1864
Butterfield's Overland Dispatch was est. here to do million-dollar business carrying mails
W. Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe Ry. was another local enterprise, outgrowth of mun.
bond issue; its 1st unit, to Topeka & Wichita, was opened in 1872.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) N. 5th & Parallel Sts., Atchison County Cth. (1897); on lawn is marker
designating spot upon which Abraham Lincoln delivered in 1859 same address he later
gave at Cooper Union, N.Y.C. (2) 819 Commercial St., Soldiers' & Sailors' Mem. Hall,
contains Amer. Legion Mus. in which are Ind. relics. (3) 1600 S. 6th St., Jackson Pk. (120
as.) is noted for iris-bordered drives. (4) 801 S. 8th St., Mt St, Scholastics Academy &
College for Girls (est.1863.Cath.), has Tudor Goth. Adm. Bldg. & Norman-style chapel
(5) 2nd & Division Sts., St Benedict's College (est.1858.Cath.) on landscaped Mo. R. bluffs
has $1,000,000 Tudor Goth. Monastery, modeled after Benedictine Monasteries of N
Europe. (6) 1400 S. 10th St., Maiir Hill Prep. School (est.1920.Cath.), for boys, has several
Tudor Goth, bldgs. on spacious campus. (7) S. edge of town, Gov. Natural Cooler is former
limestone mine with 16.5 as. of storage space, largest storage unit of its kind in world
used by US. Dept. of Agric. for surplus commodities. '
33. J. with SL16.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) short distance to Tonganoxie, rural trading center with elm-
shaded residential district. Leavenworth Cty, St Pk. (506 as.boatswim.f.h.camp.pic.), 3m
has 175-a. L. *
Dipping into valley bottom fields of grain & potatoes, US40 crosses Kansas R.
46. LAWRENCE
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., 746 Vermont St. Swim, at Jayhawk Plunge,
6th & Michigan Sts.
Kansas' chief education center, Lawrence, with many fine old houses on broad
lawns on its hilly W. side, is for most part an average-looking prosperous Kans.
town. Founded in 1854 by Charles H. Branscomb & Dr. Charles Robinson, agents
of New England Emigrant Aid Co., & named for Amos A. Lawrence of Boston,
prominent member of co., Lawrence by Mar., 1855, was center of Free State activi-
ties in Territory, with Free State newspaper, "Kansas Tribune." In May, 1856, pro-
slavery force led by Sheriff Jones attacked Lawrence, plundering town's newspaper
offices, stores & homes & burning Dr. Robinson's house. Incident precipitated 2
yrs. of open warfare, ended only when pro-slavery party was shorn of power with
adoption of Wyandotte Constitution (1859) & election of Dr. Robinson as Gov.
Lawrence was sacked & burned again Aug. 21, 1 863 by pro-Confederate Wm. Clarke
QuantruTs band of 450 mounted guerrillas, who left 150 dead. Advent of Kans. P.
RR. in 1864 made Lawrence prosperous trading & shipping point & it later acquired
various industries.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 6th & Mass. Sts., in Robinson Pk., Old Settlers' Mon., boulder
with bronze plaque bearing names of 1st settlers. Other markers indicate (2) 724
Vermont St, Site of 1st Methodist Ctu (1857); (3) 935 New Hampshire St., Site of
Massacre of Recnrite by Quantrill's guerrillas; & (4) 1115 Louisiana St., Site of
Robinson EL (5) 1009 Vermont St., former Trinity Episc. Cfa. (1858), now parish
house adj. later church (1871) of same congregation, is Kansas* oldest religious edi-
US 40 KANSAS 657
fice. (6) 923 Vermont St., Plymouth Congr. Ch. houses State's oldest church organ-
ization, organized Oct. 1854. (7) 23rd St. & Barker Ave., Haskell Institute (est. 1884),
largest Ind. school in U.S., occupies landscaped campus with a group of brick &
stone buildings & stadium. It has produced many noted football players. (8) Univ. of
Kansas, its bldgs. strung along crest of Mt. Oread, occupies 160-a. campus com-
manding scenic panorama. Organized in 1862, univ. opened in Sept., 1866. Among
chief bldgs. are: 13th St. & Oread Ave., Mem. Union BIdg. (1927); 14th St. & Oread
Ave., Dyche Mus., with natural history coll. which incl. largest univ. coll. of fossil
remains in country; 14th St. & Oread Ave., Tfaayer Mas. of Art, which contains
Ind. artifacts, Eng. porcelain & glassware, textiles & coins, Japanese lacquer, silver-
ware, & prints, Chinese tapestries & Amer. handicraft; Campus Dr., Green Hall,
housing Sch. of Law; Fraser Hall (1872), oldest bldg. on campus, containing Wilcox
Mus. of facsimile reproductions of Gr. & Rom. objects; Watson Lib. (1924.Goth.)
W. of Fraser Hall; Haworth Hall, housing Paleontology Mus. & Geolog. Mus;
Adm. BIdg. (Ital.Ren.); Snow Hall (CoU.Goth.), W. of Adm. Bldg., housing natural
sci. depts. & Francis Huntington Snow Entomological Mus., one of best of its kind
in country; 1 1th & Alabama Sts., Mem. Stadium (1927), seating 38,000.
US40 cont. (W) from Lawrence to J. at 56. with gravel Rd.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) to Lecompton, 3m, hillside village overlooking Kansas R.,
founded in 1854 & named for Sam. D. Lecompte, 1st chief justice of Kansas Terr., which
from 1855 to 1858 was territorial capital. In Constitution Hall, W. side Main St., was
written in 1857 Lecompton Constitution, which would have admitted Kans. as slave State
but was overwhelmingly repudiated by electorate.
US40 now follows winding route through hills.
74.5. TOPEKA
Through RR. & bus conns. Accoms.: Plentiful. Swim, at mun. pools in Gage, Garfield
& Ripley Pks. Annual events: July, Mex. Fiesta; Sept., Kans. Free Fair.
Capital of Kans. & 3rd city in pop., Topeka straddles Kansas R. & spreads over R.
bottoms & up slopes N. & S. Factories, flour mills, & meat-packing plants of in-
dustrial dist. extend along R. in oldest part of town. Along Kans. Ave., bisecting
city from N. to S., lies retail business & professional dist. To S. & W. are chief
residential sections, with tall shade trees. Topeka is important distribution & trade,
insurance & printing industry center. Biggest single industry is Santa Fe Ry. with
world's largest repair shops & car-building facils. Dominant in Topeka's economy
are meat packing, flour milling, poultry & dairy products & other food-processing
plants; new $12,500,000 Goodyear Tire & Rubber Co. plant, producing tractor &
heavy-duty tires; & city's metal-working industries, which supply national markets.
Nationally-known Menninger Foundation, U.S. Veterans Adm. Winter General
Hospital (specializing in neurp-psychiatric cases) & St. Hospital for Insane make
Topeka "Rochester" of psychiatric treatment & training. Also important are city's
permanent army installations: Army Air Forces Supply Depot & Topeka Army Air
Base.
First white settlers were 2 Fr.-Canadians, Joseph & Louis Pappan, latter an ancestor
of late Vice Pres. Charles Curtis, who married Kaw Ind. half-breeds & sett here in
1842; they est. 1st ferry across Kansas R. Col. Cyras K. Holliday, young Pennsyl-
vanian interested in RR. building, & partners bought land & org. town company.
At meeting in log cabin Dec. 5, 1854, they chose name Topeka, Omaha Ind. word
meaning "good place to dig edible roots/* Heavy influx of New England immigrants
followed. Here, in 1855, convention of Free Staters framed 1st Kans. constitution;
but "Topeka Government 1 * was speedily overthrown when U.S. troops arrested
legislators. In 1857 city was inc. & in 1858 became cty. seat. Following adoption of
Wyandotte constitution, it was selected as St. capital. Topeka grew to town of more
than 5,000 in 1870. Holliday's RR., Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Ry., began build-
ing W. in 1869 & in 1878 est. its general offices & machine shops here. During
1880's Topeka passed through hectic real estate boom which ended abruptly with
ruin of many investors in 1889; but it retained doubled pop. & was able to weather
depression of 1890*s. Introduction of bridges, parks, blvds., motor busses, hotels &.
office bldgs. early in 20th cent, made Topeka modern city.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) Kansas State Capitol, surrounded by 10-a. pk. extending from
8th St. to 10th St. & Jackson St. to Harrison St, is of cruciform design, modeled on
plan of Capitol at Washington, D. C, with 4 wings & central 304' rotunda. Con-
658 US 40 KANSAS
struction began in 1866 but was not finished until 1903. Opp. Governor's Office,
2nd fl., on walls of E. corridor, is John Steuart Curry's mural dealing with Kans.
hist 'Tragic Prelude," & on walls of W. corridor is his "Kansas Pastoral, de-
picting contemp. scene. Senate Chamber, 3rd floor of E. wing, & Representative
Hall, 3rd fl. of W. wing, are both richly finished. On 3rd fl. of N. wing is St. Lib.
On grounds are Abraham Lincoln Statue (1918) & Pioneer Women of Kans. Statue
(1937), both by Kans.-born sculptor Merrell Gage.
(2) 10th & Jackson Sts., Kans. Mem. Bldg. (1914.Fr.Ren.) houses offices of various
veterans' organizations & Hqs. of Kans. St Hist Soc., 1 of 2 or 3 largest St. hist soc.
in America, org. in 1875, which has largest newspaper coll. in country next to that
of Lib of Congress; art coll. of more than 20,000 pictures ranging from tmtypes to
oil paintings; St Hist Lib. of more than 350,000 vols. & about 1,500,000 mss.; &
Mas. (4th fl.) of pictures & objects illustrating hist of Kans. ranging in size from
Mexican dressed fleas to Concord stage coach & in time from Coronado sword of
1541 to present (3) 17th St. & College Ave., Washburn Univ., housed in 15 bldgs.
on 160-a. elm-shaded campus, has been since 1941 Topeka's num. univ It began
as Congr. Ch. institution, opened in 1866, named for Ichabod Washburn of
Worcester, Mass., who donated $25,000. Rice Hall (1870-74) contains small Mus. of
Nat Hist Mulvane Art Mus. (1923.ItaI.Ren.) houses permanent art coll., traveling
exhibits, & painting studio, classrooms, lib., & little theater.
(4) Quincy St bet 7th St & 8th Ave., Topeka's Mun. Auditorium & City Bldg.
(1940) has auditorium seating 4,257. Among city's more architecturally notable
structures are (5) Topeka Cental Higfc Sen. (1930.Coll.Goth.), 10th & Taylor Sts., &
(6) Grace Caimedral (ProtEpisc.), 8th & Polk Sts. Also of interest are (7) Arthur
Capper Mansion, Topeka Blvd. & llth St, onetime residence of noted newspaper
publisher & U.S. Senator, now radio station, & (8) Charles Curtis Home, Topeka
Blvd. & 1 1th St., residence of grandson of Kaw Ind. chief who became Shawnee Cty.
prosecutor, Congressman, Senator, & Vice Pres. (9) 6th Ave. & Gage Blvd., Topeka's
largest recr. center, Gage Pk. (swimusports facils.pic.zoo), contains nationally out-
standing Rdnisch Menu Rose & Rock Garden, floodlit at night; Old Settlers' Mem.
Cabin, removed here from farm near Topeka of Adam Bauer, pioneer structure of
walnut logs with pioneer implements & furnishings; & Munn Mem. with frieze pic-
turing pioneer family & ox-drawn wagon.
Topeka is at J. with US75 (see).
SIDE TRIP: Take 29th St (L) from Topeka to Shawnee L. & Pic* (1,017 as.f.boatswim.ft
& bridle trls.scenic dr.), 3m, wooded area with 10a drive around 405-a. L.
US40 crosses Kans. R. & follows its N. bank (W) through several small towns. 99.
ST. MARY'S, outgrowth of Potawatomi Ind. mission founded by Jesuit missionaries
in 1848, Is site of St Mary's College (Cath.), where many Kans. priests are ordained,
& of Ch. of tne Immaculate Conception (Goth.). 114. WAMEGO is well-kept old
town on R. bank, whose City Pk* contains Dutch Windmill transported stone by
stone from near-by farm where it had been built by Hollander in 1873. At Wamego
isJ.withSt.99.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with St.29, 3.5m, & turn (R) on latter 2.5m to Wabaunsee,
crossroads village with some walnut-beamed stone houses built by its 1st settlers, Beecher
Bible & Rifle Colony, who arrived here April 28, 1856. This company of abolitionist emi-
grants, organized in New Haven, Conn., carried rifles & Bibles supplied by eminent anti-
slavery minister, Henry Ward Beecher, Beecher Bible & Rifle Ch. (1862), S. edge of town, is
narrow-windowed stone bldg. with squat belfry.
128.5. MANHATTAN, lying in hill-encircled natural limestone bowl W. of con-
fluence of Big Blue & Kans. Rs., is tree-shaded college & farm shipping & trading
town. Two towns were founded here in 1854 Poleska, est. by Col. George S. Park
of Mo., & Canton, sett by New England Emigrant Aid Co.; they were soon con-
solidated under name of Boston. Party of colonists from Cincinnati, bringing
boatload of freight incl. 10 portable houses by way of Ohio, Miss. & Kans. Rs. on
steamer "Hartford," arrived in 1855 & concluded deal whereby they were given
half of townsite; deal provided for renaming place Manhattan. In 1859 Bluemont
College, forerunner of Kans. St College, opened its doors. Following advent of
Rock L & U.P. RRs. in 70's & 80*s, it became shipping pt for farm produce & cattle.
llth St bet Poyntz Ave. & Fremont St, City Pk* (45 as. sports facils.), with band
pavilion & rose & rock gardens, contains marble Tatarrax Mon., comm. Harahey Ind.
chief who visited with Coronado on latter's expedition into Kans.; Log Cabin Mus*
US 40 KANSAS 659
containing pioneer relics; & Old Stagecoach formerly used in Yellowstone Nat
Pk. 14th & Anderson Sts., Kans. St College of Agric. & Applied Science, founded
1863, occupies more than 2 dozen bldgs., chiefly limestone in mod. Goth, design, on
landscaped 155-a. campus. Its primary aim is technical instruction in agric., archi-
tecture & engineering, home economics, veterinary medicine, & phys. & biol.
sciences. In Anderson Hall is mus. of antique furniture, pottery, & other articles; in
College Lib., art coll.; in FaircMid Hall, Mus. of Nat Hist
138. US40 crosses boundary of FT. MLEY MILITARY RESERV., covering vast
tract of virgin prairie. 138.5. MON. TO GEN. LEONARD A. WOOD marks site of
Camp Funston, 1 of largest U.S. training camps in World War I, where Gen. Wood
trained famous 10th & 89th Divisions. 141.5. On site of Pawnee, Kansas' first "per-
manent" Territorial capital, is two-story limestone OLD CAPITOL, used for 4 days
in July, 1855, before proslavery majority unseated Free Staters & adjourned Shawnee
Mission; it is maintained as pub. mus., furnished as it was in 1850's. 142. CAMP
WfflTESIDE is used in summer by Nat. Guard & other reserve units. 143.5. FT.
RILEY today houses Mounted Serv. School, largest cavalry training center in
country. It was est as Camp Center in 1852 to protect trade of Santa Fe Tri, under
command of Maj. E. A. Ogden, & renamed Ft. Riley in honor of Maj. Gen.
Bennett Riley of Buffalo, N. Y. in 1853. Ind.- uprisings after Civil War led to org.
in 1866 of George A. Custer's famous 7th Cavalry, based here. At Ft Riley is J.
with camp's main drive, encircling grounds (L) past post & installations. Near
center is Wounded Knee Mon., comm. slain of 7th Cavalry, led against Sioux at
Wounded Knee Cr., S. Dak., Dec. 29, 1890, by Col. James W. Forsyth. OGDEN
MON., short distance beyond Ft. Riley, erected in 1880 to comm. Maj. E. A. Ogden,
who died at Ft Riley in 1855 during cholera epidemic, stands near Nat. Cemetery,
est. during epidemic.
147. JUNCTION CITY has developed as trading pt for Ft. Riley soldiers. It was
founded in 1858 & so named because it is at junction of Republican & Smoky Hill
Rs. 160.5. CHAPMAN, trading center of stockraising area, has First Cty. High Scfa.
in U.S. (1889), US40 at W. edge of town, built following enactment by legislature
of bill est. State-wide system of cty. high schools as first conceived by Prof. J. H.
Canfield of Univ. of Kans., father of novelist Dorothy Canfield Fisher.
Valley widens to vast sweep of wheat fields, broken at intervals by tracts of alfalfa,
as hy. cont. (W). 172. ABILENE, at heart of Kans. wheat belt. Today farm produce
shipping pt & agric. processing center. For nearly 5 yrs., beginning in 1866, Abilene's
position as terminus of U.P. RR. made it objective of great Texas cattle drives over
Chisholm Trl. Here great droves of Texas longhorns were herded into stock pens
awaiting shipment, while as many as 5,000 cowboys, paid off simultaneously,
thronged brothels, saloons & gambling houses. Abilene, said in 1871 to have more
cutthroats & desperadoes than any other town, was tamed somewhat by James
Butler ("Wild Bill") Hickok, who became marshal; credited with 43 killings before
he came to Abilene, he increased his total here to 100. 193.5. J. with gravel Rd.
leading (L) l m to Ind. Burial Pit (fee), in which are preserved 109 whole skeletons &
other bones just as they were when unearthed in Oct. 1936 in one of Middle West's
most remarkable archaeological finds.
196. SALINA.
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C., Ash & 5th Sts. Accoms.: Plentiful.
Metropolis of central Kans., Salina lies in basin W. of confluence of Saline & Smoky
Hill Rs., is trading & recr. center for thousands of farmers. Wheat is all-important
hereabouts; Salina is dominated by grain elevators & flour mills. It also produces
milling machinery, agric. implements, & other goods. Townsite was staked out in
1858. Settlement began to thrive in 1860 as "jumping off' place for gold-hunters
traveling to Pike's Peak. Extension of U.P. RR. here in 1867 brought settlers. Great
crops of wheat began to pour into Salina in 1870's. Meanwhile alfalfa, first intro-
duced to Kans. by Dr. E. R. Switzer of Salina in 1874, also became important crop
in reg. By 1880 Salina had 3 flour mills, 6 grain elevators, carriage & wagon factory,
& agric. implement works; & during succeeding decade, 3 RRs. were built through
community.
PTS. OF INT.: 8th St & Iron Ave., Salina Pub. Lib. contains Hist Mus. of pioneer
memorabilia. Pks. incl. Oakdale Pk. (pic.swim.sports facils.open-air auditorium), N.
entrance on Oakdale Dr., & Kenwood Pk., E. end of Oakwood Dr. Claflin St. &
^0 US 40 KANSAS
Santa Fe. Ave., Kaiis. Wesleyan Univ., Meth. Episc. liberal arts college, founded
1886; Carnegie Science Hal houses lib. & mus. E. end of Iron Ave., Marymonnt
College, Cath. women's college, est. by Sisters of St. Joseph in 1922.
Salina is at J. with US81 (see). 233. ELLSWORTH, founded in 1869, had its day
as wild & woolly cow town, but is now agric. community. 250. WILSON is farm
market & milling town. 273.5. RUSSELL, est. in 1870s, is now center of oil dist,
dotted with derricks. 290.5. VICTORIA, built to resemble Russian village with
wooden-shuttered peak-roofed houses flush with St., is center of scattered settle-
ments in W. central Kans. est. in 187Q's by Volga Germans of Cath. faith emigrating
from Russia when religious privileges granted their ancestors by Catherine the
Great were revoked. To them Kans. owes its ranking place as wheat-growing State,
for they brought variety of hard wheat known as Turkey Red which they had grown
on Russian steppes & which proved adaptable to Kans. climate & soil. Known as
"Cathedral of the Prairies," St. Fidelis Ch. (Romanes.) rears its twin 141' towers
above town, an imposing structure seating 1,700 persons. Victoria was first settled,
however, by English immigrants: shipload of sons of wealthy families who came
bringing horses, sheep & cattle to settle townsite platted by Sir George Grant &
named for Queen Victoria. Colonists lived with joyous abandon, galloping in red
coats over prairie in pursuit of jack rabbits & coyotes & impounding waters of Big
Cr. to float steamboat brought overland partly by oxcart. Colony was failure, &
its site was taken over by German-Russians.
300.5. HAYS, gateway & chief trading & educational center of NW. Kans., is wheat-
milling & oil-field center. Founded in 1867, soon after est. of Ft. Hays, frontier
military post, it was in early years gathering place for scouts, cattlemen, soldiers,
& desperadoes. W. F. ("Buffalo Bill") Cody during 1860's is said to have killed
4,280 buffalo near Ft. Hays within 18 months, whose meat he sold to RR. workers'
camps & ft. commissary. Ft Hays, directly S. of city, was abandoned in 1889 fol-
lowing end of Ind. wars & its 7,000 as. given to St. of Kans. Within this area today
is Ft Hays Kans. St College (est.1902), 6th & Park Sts., occupying 80-a. wooded
campus. Forsyth Lib. contains college mus., with nat. hist., geological & paleon-
tological, botanical & hist, colls. Just S. are Ft. Hays St Pk., containing 2 of old Ft.
Hays' stone bldgs., &, across Rd. from it, 3,600-a. Ft Hays Agric. Experiment Sta.,
conducted jointly by U.S. Dept. of Agric. & Kans. St. College. St Joseph's College
& Military Academy (est. 1931. Cath.), W. edge of town, is boys* high sch. & jr.
college.
Sec. 2: HAYS to KANS.-COLO. LINE. 161.
14.5. ELLIS, est in 1867 as RR. tank & pumping sta., was cowtown in days of Tex.
cattle trade; it is now U.P. RR. division pt, with repair shops. At 15.5. is boundary
of Mt. Time zone; westbound travelers should set watches back 1 hr. 33. WAKEE-
NEY, est. in 1878. At COLLYEK, 46., is J. with gravel Rd.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) here to dirt Rd., 10m, turn (R) on this to 2nd dirt Rd., 12m;
turn (L) on this to pasture gate, 13m & (R) through gate to Castle Rocks, 13.5m, chalk
remnants eroded by rain &. wind into pillars & domes, once Ind. lookout pt. & hiding place.
At QUINTER, 54.5., Dunkard social & trading center, is J. with graded Rd. leading
(R) 7.5 m to 436-a. Sheridan Cty. St Pk. (camp.f.boat.) surrounding 124-a. L. 91.
OAKLEY, market center & shipping pt with mun. swimming pool & golf course, is
at J. with US83.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with Rd., 21.5m.
Turn (L) on this to 2nd improved Rd., 4m, & (R) on this to 3rd, 6m, turn (L) on this,
then (R) at 7m to Mon. Rocks, 7.5m, sometimes called "Kans. Pyramids," group of
chalk rocks rising with startling abruptness from vast flatness of High Plains. At N.
end of group is Kans. Sphinx, one of most unusual rock formations in Kans., resembling
Egyptian mon., with face like that of Franklin D. Roosevelt.
US83 cont. to Scott Cty. St Pk. (1,280 as.cabins.f.boat.), 35m, rugged tract surrounding
115-a. L. McBride. Here are mon. to H. L. Steele & Ms wife, homesteaders on park site, &
limestone H. L. Steele Home, now mus. exhibiting old furniture, curios, & Ind. flints. Near
center of pk. is Buffalo Sanctuary, where small herd are pastured in area carpeted by native
buffalo grass with many water holes. Also in pk. are Ruins of E! Quartelejo, believed to
have been first solid walls erected within what is now Kans. Adobe stronghold was built
by Picurie Inds., fleeing from Sp. rule in Taos reg. of New Mexico, early in 17th cent
45m Scott City, is comfortable-looking plains town with well-kept streets & homes, sur-
rounded by irrigated farms. Garden City, 81m (see US50), is at J. with US50.
US 50 KANSAS 661
144. SHARON SPRINGS, founded 1886, is well-shaded market town in treeless
plains country. 161. Kans.-Colo. Line.
US 50 KANSAS
KANS.-MO. LINE (0.5* from Kans. City, Mo.) (W) to KANS.-COLO. LINE (32
from Lamar, Colo.). 490. US50
Via: Ottawa, Emporia, Newton, Hutchinson, Dodge City, & Garden City. RR. parallels
route throughout. Accoms.: In larger towns.
Paralleling route of old Santa Fe TrL, US50 cuts through farm country of E.
Kans., bluestem pastures of Flint Hills, & Gt. Bend wheat belt, traverses irrigated
Arkansas R. bottom lands & then enters barren upland country near Colo. line.
Sec. 1: KANS.-MO. LINE to HUTCHINSON. 234.
At 0. is Kans.-Mo. Line.
SHAWNEE CEMETERY, 1., one of Kans.' oldest white burial grounds, contains
graves of Rev. Thos. Johnson & his wife (see below). Just beyond is J. with
Mission Rd. leading (R) 0.3 m to Shawnee Meth. Mission, twice territorial capital
of Kans. In 1838 Mo. Conference of Meth. Episc. Ch. directed Rev. Thos.
Johnson, missionary among Shawnee, to build manual training sen. for Ind. chil-
dren. School opened in Oct., 1839. Two-story former Dormitory and Boarding
Sch. (1845) on Nov. 24, 1854, was occupied by Territorial Gov. Andrew H.
Reeder, who moved his executive offices here from Ft. Leavenworth. Later he
selected Pawnee (see US40) as territorial capital & convened 1st territorial legis-
lature there in 1855; but proslavery faction passed law transferring capital back
to Shawnee Mission. Legislature occupied big barracks-like Schoolfa. (1839),
adopting statutes of Mo. virtually in their entirety & legalizing slavery in Kans.
until Lecompton was chosen as capital Aug. 8, 1855. Chapel is now mus., con-
taining hist, furnishings & documents. Afterwards, mission declined rapidly, as
Inds. moved away; finally abandoned in 1864. 3rd of remaining bldgs. is former
Home of Superintendent (1839).
20. OLATHE was founded in 1857 & named with its founders* inaccurate version
of Shawnee Ind. word for "beautiful" (wes-see). Here is Kans. School for the
Deaf (est. 1866). Just E. of bridge over Cedar Cr., 22.5. is SANTA FE &
OREGON TRL. MARKER. On site of GARDNER, 29.5., founded by Free
Staters in 1857, these two trls. diverged; signposts originally stood here, reading:
"Road to Oregon" (R) and "Road to Santa Fe" (L). 45.5. BALDWIN CITY,
stands near grove of black jack oaks on Santa Fe Trl. where on June 2, 1856, Henry
Clay Pate's Border Ruffians were defeated by John Brown & his Free Staters in
Battle of Black Jack. Baldwin City is dominated by yellow limestone bldgs. of
Baker Univ. (est. 1858), Kans/ oldest Meth. college, whose Old Castle Hall was
territory's 1st college bldg. Case Lib. houses Wm. A. Quayle Coll. of Bibles, one of
world's finest
51. J. with US50N, alternate route (W) bet this pt & Garden City.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (R) through upland fanning country. At 23m is J. with US75 (see).
US50N traverses soft-coal mining reg., passing through Burlingame, 32.5m. At 39^ is J.
with St.31 leading (L) 2m to Osage City, market center of coal-mining & farming area.
Council Grove, 76m, mc . in 1858, on edge of Flint Hills in fertile Neosho R. valley. It
grew up about old campground in oak grove near- ford, supposedly used by Coronado &
his expedition in search of Quivira in 1541; here in 1825 Fed. commissioners signed treaty
with chiefs of Kansa & Gt. & Little Osage tribes to permit surveying of trl. to Santa Fe.
1st large caravan, led by Josiah Gregg, forded R. here in 1826; & in 1827 Kit Carson is
said to have carved his name on a tree. By early 1840's, campground was most important
sta. bet. Westport, Mo. & Santa Fe. Later, town sett, down to slow growth as agric. center;
with advent of RR. in 1883, it became livestock shipping pt. Union & Main Sts., Madonna
of the Trl. Mon., represents frontier mother with children. Treaty of Aug. 10, 1825 was
signed under Council Oak, 210 E. Main St., ppp. which is mon. containing hist, documents
in metal box sealed in its cement foundation. 112 N. Main St., Former Hays Tavern
(1847), successively home, saloon, supply house, ctk, & hotel; it was built by Council
Grove's 1st white settler. Main & Chautauqua Sts., Last Chance Store (1857) was in
Santa Fe Trl. days last place to buy supplies for journey to Santa Fe. Huffaker & Mission
Sts., Kaw (Kansa) Mission (1849), opened by Meth. missionary Thos. S. Huffaker, began
as Ind. mission school, but attracted so few pupils it was closed until 1854 & then re-
&$2 US 50 KANSAS
opened as 1st school for white children in Kans. Herington, 102.5m, laid out in early
1880's on 40 as. of Monroe D. Herington's 2,000-a. ranch, is RR. division pt, & farm
shipping & shopping center. City Pk. (swim.) contains shaft erected in 1904 as Mon. to
Father Juan de Padilla, soldier-priest who explored this reg. with Coronado in 1541.
Marion, 128m, sett, in 1860, is shipping pt. for produce of fertile Cottonwood R. valley.
Hillsboro, 138.5m, a t J. of Cottonwood R.'s N. & S. branches, is center of large Mennomte
community extending into neighboring ctys. & site of Tabor College, 2-yr. coed. Mennonite
institution. Hillsboro has Mennonite publishing plant. McPherson, 165.5m, i s shipping &
refining point for central Kans. oil fields & site of 2 colleges: McPherson College (O.1888),
Dunkard (Ch. of Brethren) coed, liberal arts institution, & Central College and Academy
(founded 1914), Free Meth. secondary school & jr. college. McPherson is at J. with US81
(see). Lyons, 196.5m, laid out in 1876 on land owned by Truman J. Lyons, is salt-mining &
wheat-growing center. 1st salt mine in vie. was opened in 1890; in 1920 's oil fields were
also discovered near-by. Rice County Cth. houses coll. of relics believed to be of Coro-
nado's Quivira expedition of 1541, plowed up on near-by farm.
Turn (L) from Lyons on SU4 to Sterling, 10m, founded 1872, site of Sterling College
(estl886), 4 yr. coed, institution conducted by United Presb. Ch.
Near Cow Cr., 205m, is Santa Fe Trl. Marker. Ellinwood, 218m, founded 1871, has become
since 1930 center of one of leading Kans. oil fields. Take Rd. (R) from Ellinwood short
distance to RobI Birdfcanding Sta., 16-a. private refuge where in 1928 Frank Robl began
banding migratory birds so that their flights could be studied. Gt. Bend, 229m, named for
sweeping curve of Ark. R. on which it lies, sett, in 1871, is shipping, wheat, & oil center.
In 1874 it became railhead on Chisholm Trl. from Texas, crowded with saloons & dance
halls. Later its chief industry was flour milling. During 1930's it went through an oil
boom. At 242m is J. with improved Rd. leading (R) 0.5m to 5-a. Pawnee Rock St. Pk.
(shelter H.pic.), formerly rendezvous for Plains Inds. & scene of many savage battles.
Pawnee Rock, mass of Dakota sandstone about 80' high, commands sweeping view.
Pawnee Rock Mon. (1912) is 30' shaft of Barre granite. Lamed, 250m, at confluence of
Pawnee Cr. & Ark. R., grew up following est. near-by of Ft. Lamed (see below). At 255m
is J. with dirt Rd. leading (L) 0.5m to Site of Ft Lamed, est. in 1859 to protect travellers
on Santa Fe Trl. from Ind. attacks. Adobe structures built in 1860 were replaced bet,
1864 & 1868 by present ones of sandstone, facing parade ground. Ft. Lamed was supply
base & agency for Arapahoe & Cheyenne, who sometimes besieged it when supplies ran
low. It was abandoned in 1878. Jetmore, 299m, was founded in 1879. At 322m is J. with dirt
Rd. leading (R) 9m to 853-a. Finney Cry. St Pk. (camp.boati.), surrounding 324-a. L.
impounded by one of Kans.* largest dams. Garden City, 358m (see below), is at J. with
US50S.
63.5. OTTAWA, lying in saucer-like valley around Marais des Cygnes (pronounced
locally "merry deseen") R., is farm trade center with RR. shops & division hqs. &
several mills & factories. It had its origin in 1832 when Ottawa Inds. ceded their
Ohio lands to U.S. in return for 34,000 as. in Franklin Cry. Here in 1837 Rev.
Jotham Meeker & Ms wife opened Ottawa Ind. Baptist Mission. They were aided
by Gov. agent on reserv., John Tecumseh (Tauy) Jones, half-breed Potawatomi &
staunch abolitionist, who welcomed Free State settlers, bldg. hotel. Town was laid
out in 1864. After removal of Ottawa to Okla. in 1867, white settlers flocked in;
in 1872 town acquired its RR. shops & in 1888 an electric plant. 9th & Cedar Sts.,
Ottawa Univ 7 Bapt Ch. 4-yr. coed, institution, occupying heavily wooded 33-a.
campus, was inc. in 1865 as result of agreement bet. Kans. Bapts. & Ottawa Inds.,
under which Ottawa gave 20,000 as. of land & Bapts. provided teachers, bldg., &
special dept for education of Ind. children. Oldest of bldgs. is Tauy Jones Hall
(1869), housing mus. of fossils, minerals, Ind. artifacts, & Kans. memorabilia. W.
end Tecumseh St., Forest Pk. (180 as.sports facils.swim.).
SIDE TRIPS: (A) Take Wilson St. (L) from Ottawa to J. with Rd., 2m.
Turn (L) on latter 4.5m to stone, 14-room, two-and-a-half-story Home of Tauy Jones
(c.1865), with 34-inch-thick walls, built entirely with pegs.
Wilson St. cont to Site of Ottawa Bapt Mission, 3m, est. in 1837 by Jotham Meeker, mis-
sionary & printer, who published here 1st book printed in Kans., a textbook for Inds.
Near Rd. at this pt is Ottawa IndL Burial Ground, containing graves of Jotham Meeker &
his wife, Tauy Jones & his wife, & Ottawa Chief Compehau, among others.
(B) Take 9th St. (L) from Ottawa to Chippewa Burial Ground, 6m, in cedar grove on
grassy hill above Marais des Cygnes R. Most of graves are covered by thick slabs of red
sandstone, many of them elaborately carved.
At 65.5. is J. with US59.
SIDE TRIP: Take latter (L) to J. with Osawatomie Rd., 6.5m, & con t. (L) on this. At
15.5m is J. with gravel Rd.
Take latter (R) to J. with dirt Rd. & turn (R) on this to timbered pasture, 4.5m in
which c.20 rods (R) from Rd. are Graves of James P. Doyle & His Sons, Wm. & Drury,
US 50 KANSAS 663
who, with Wm. Sherman & Allen Wilkinson, were -victims of Potawatomie massacre con-
ducted by John Brown & his followers on night of May 24-25, 1856, in retaliation for
sacking of Lawrence by proslavery "Border Ruffians."
At 22.5m on Osawatomie Rd. is MOEU to Frederick Brown, son of John Brown, killed near-by
at age of 26 on morning of Aug. 30, 1856 by Rev. Martin White, proslavery fanatic ac-
companying advance guard of force of Border Ruffians led by Brigadier-General John W.
Reid who were on their way to attack Osawatomie. About 200' NW. of mon. is Foundation
of John Brown Cabin (so-called), built by Brown's brother-in-law, Rev. Samuel Lyle Adair;
cabin has been removed to Osawatomie (see below). Just W. of homestead, following
shooting of his son, John Brown rallied force of about 30 Free Staters in fringe of timber
along Marais des Cygnes R. on morning of Aug. 30, 1856 in unsuccessful attempt to hold
back Reid's 250 Border Ruffians. Osawatomie fell to attackers, who reduced it to ashes.
Osawatomie, 23.5m, O n Marais des Cygnes R., founded in 1855 & said to have been named
for Osage & Potawatomi Inds. living in vie., derives its income from neighboring fanners,
near-by oil & gas fields, its State Hospital for the Insane, & shops of Mo. Pacific RlL
(on which it is division pt.). W. end of Main St., John Brown Mem. St. Pk. (pic.swim.
sports facils.) contains life-size bronze Joins Brown Statue (by George Fite Waters) &, on
its highest elevation, so-called John Brown Cabin, removed here from Adair homestead
(see above): log structure furnished as it was in 1850s, with many John Brown relics, pro-
tected by glassed roofed enclosure. Also in pk. is John Brown Mem, 9th & Main Sts
marble shaft above graves of F/ed. Brown, David Garrison, Geo. Partridge, Theron Powers
& Chas. Kaiser, all killed during raid at Osawatomie Aug. 30, 1856. Osawatomie is at J.
with US 169.
Take latter (L) to Paola, 9.5m, est. in 1855. Here in 1860 prospectors digging with pick
& shovel found oil at depth of 275'; this was 1st oil well W. of Mississippi R. Oil in
commercial quantities was 1st found in 1889, when well was sunk 6m E. Discovery
of gas field near-by in 1884 had already led to Paola's becoming 1st gas-lit town in
Kans.
Main side route turns (R) from Osawatomie on US169 to J. with St7 26m & (L) on this
to J. with St.35, 39^, then (L) on this to J. with US69, 51m, & (R) on US69.
At 58.5m on US69 is Marais des Cygnes Massacre Mon., comm. massacre on May 19 1858
of 11 Free St. men taken prisoner by 50 Missourians led by Capt. Chas. Hamilton. Massacre
inspired John G. Whittier's poem, "Le Marais du Cygne." Trading Post, 60m, where
as early as 1839 Michael Gireau est. an Ind. trading post, was thriving town in days of
border warfare. Pleasauton, 66m, founded in 1869, was named for General Pleasanton
whose Feds, defeated Gen. Sterling Price's Confeds. near-by in Battle of Mine Creek'
only decisive engagement fought in Kans. during Civil War, Oct. 24, 1864 involving
nearly 25,000 men. 5
US50 cent (S. & SW.) from Ottawa. 82. SITE OF SILKVHXE, marked by white-
washed limestone bldgs. in mulberry grove planted in 1870s by colony financed &
led by Ernest Boissiere, who brought manufacturing experts & cocoons from France
to found silk industry. Colony, operated along communistic lines, proved un-
profitable & was abandoned.
At 94. is J. with US75 (see), which unites with US50S for 3 m .
121. EMPORIA.
Through RR. & bus. conns. Info.: C. of C., 6th Ave. & Merchant St Accoms,: Plentiful.
Trading & RR. center of farming & dairying reg., Emporia lies on low ridge bet.
Neosho & Cottonwood Rs., shaded by elms & maples. At gateway to Kans. bluestem
pasture reg. where half million head of cattle are fattened yearly, it becomes cattle
town during grazing season, celebrating with Blue Stem Round Up Picnic. Its in-
dustries center mostly around processing of farm products; among them is 1st soy
bean mill of Kans. Emporia was est. in 1857 by Emporia Town Co., on land bought
from an Ind. for $1,800. It was named for an ancient city in N. Africa. First issue
of "Kanzas News," June 5, 1857, published town charter, which forbade use & sale
of "spirituous" liquor; thus Emporia was Middle West's 1st "dry town." After Civil
War it attracted cattlemen, who brought gaunt Texas steers to graze on bluestem
grass of vie. 1st train on Mo.-Kans.-Texas RR. arrived in 1869; 1st on Santa Fe, in
1870. Gaslights were installed in 1880; st. cars, in 1881; electricity, in 1885; stock-
yards, in 1887. "Emporia Gazette," bought by Wm. Allen White in 1895, became
under his editorship perhaps nation's most famous small-town newspaper.
PTS. OF INT.: 927 Exchange St., "Red Rocks" was residence from 1900 until his
death of "Sage of Emporia," Wm. Allen White. 517 Merchant St., Emporia Gazette
BIdg. is home of his newspaper. Randolph & Rural Sts., Peter Pan Pk. (50 as. pic.
natural amphitheater) was donated by Mr. & Mrs. Wm. Allen White as mem, to
their daughter Mary, who died in 1921. W. end of 12th Ave., College of Emporia
664 US 50 KANSAS
(founded 1882) is 4-yr. liberal arts college conducted by Presb. Ch. 12th Ave. &
Commercial St., Kkos. St. Teachers College of Emporla (O.I 865) occupies tree-
shaded 55-a. campus.
SIDE TRIP: Take St.99 (R) from Emporia to improved Rd., 13m, & turn (R) on this to
582-a. Lyon Cty. SL Pk. (camp.boatf.), surrounding 135-a. L.
169. FLORENCE, platted in 1870, is near edge of central Kans. oil fields, in midst
of which stands PEABODY, 179., low & spacious plains towns. 198. NEWTON is
Santa Fe Ry. division pt & wheat-growers' trading center. In July 1871, Santa Fe
Ry. extended its line to settlement, which thereby succeeded Abilene as terminus of
Chisholm TrL, & until 1873 was cowtown crowded with saloons, dancehalls &
gambling houses. German Mennonites from Russia sett, in surrounding area &
planted prairies with wheat, following lead of Bernard Warkentin, immigrant of
1872 who org. in 1885 Newton Milling & Elevator Co. 713Vi Main St., Harvey Cty.
Hist Soc. Mas. contains pioneer relics. W. end of 1st St., Athletic Pk. has deer pk.,
outdoor stage, artificial L., baseball & football stadium & mun. swim. pool. Newton
isatJ. withUSSl (see).
SIDE TRIP: Take St.15 (R) from Newton to Bethel College (chartered 1887), 0.5m,
oldest & largest Mennonite educational institution in America, In front of Science Hall
are two threshing stones brought from Russia by pioneer Mennonites, which were drawn
by oxen over wheat strewn on ground to remove grain. KauSman Mus. contains hist.,
nat. hist. & art exhibits. Mennonite Song Festival, held here annually, draws church choirs
from Kans. & other Sts.
254. HUTCHINSON
Through RR. & bus conns. Info.: C. of C, 203 W. 1st Ave. Swim, at Carey Mun. Pk.
Sept., Kans. St. Fair.
Kans." 4th largest city, Hutchinspn is nation's largest salt mining & processing center,
city of mills & factories spreading over level valley land from N. bank of Ark. R.
Known as "Salt City" for its mine & evaporating plants, which exploit rich beds
underlying city & extending miles in all directions, it is also important wheat storage
& shipping center & oil refining & shipping pt. Named for its founder, C. C. Hutchin-
son, city was platted in Nov. 1871. Lot offered builder of 1st house on townsite as
prize was won by A. F. Horner, who had already won similar prizes offered in
Brookville, Florence & Newton, moving his 20' x 60' house from place to place.
Promoters plowed wide furrow around settlement to protect it from prairies fires &
marked off streets with buffalo bones. Churches, schools & opera house were soon
built. By 1885 Hutchinson had begun to thrive as shipping & trading pt. & milling
center. Discovery of natural gas led in 1887 to drilling of well on near-by farm, in
course of which city's underlying salt deposits were discovered. During 1920s, dis-
covery of oil & gas in neighborhood added to prosperity.
PTS. OF INT.: (1) 1st Ave. & Adams St, Reno County Oh. (1930), half-million-
dollar structure, is of interest for its modern architecture. (2) Main St. bet. Park Ave.
& Axk. R., Carey Mun. Pk. (320 as.swim.pic.golf.) has lagoon, sunken gardens &
scenic drive; contains electrically lit Emerson Carey Mem. Fountain & Arch (1935),
comm. prominent Hutchinson salt manufacturer & philanthropist. (3) In 1st Ave.
Pk., 1st Ave. & Walnut St, is Soldiers' Mon. (1919), comm. Civil War vets; & (4) in
Sylvan Pk., Ave. B & Walnut St., is Sun Dial Mon., comm. Pres. Warren Harding's
visit to HutcMnson in 1923. (5) Barton Salt Plant, Cleveland & Campbell Sts., (6)
Carey Salt Plant, Poplar St & Ave. B & (7) Morton Salt Plant, N. end of Morton
Salt Stabilized Hy., all refine salt by purifying & evaporating brine from deep wells.
(8) E. end Carey Blvd., Carey Rock Salt Mine has maze of subterranean chambers &
passages, 645' deep, with electrically run ry. & elevator.
Sec. 2: HUTCHINSON to KANS.-COLO. LINE. 256.
US50 cont. (S) across vast prairie. 44.5. STAFFORD, sett in 1870s, became oil
boom town when gusher came in near-by in 1938. 54.5. ST. JOHN, founded in 1879,
is trading & shipping center for reg. producing corn, wheat, barley & oats. 94.
KINSLEY enjoys comfortable living from wheat, com, alfalfa & poultry products.
133.5. DODGE CITY, metropolis of (SW) Kans., lies on Ark. R., its modern busi-
ness & pub. bldgs. breaking monotony of Kans. short grass country. Dodge City has
been called 'the buckle on the Kans. wheat belt"; it is supply center for rich farm-
ing & cattle-raising area. Near site in 1864 was est. Ft. Dodge, named for Col. Henry
US 50 KANSAS 665
I. Dodge & commanded by Ms nephew, Grenville M. Dodge; it was one of most
important of frontier posts & several Army officers of note among them Miles,
Ouster, Hancock & Sheridan served here. In 1871, sod house, first bldg. on town-
site, was erected 5 m W. of Ft, near ford across Ark. R., to serve as stopping place
for freighters & buffalo hunters. Townsite was laid out in 1872 & in Sept. of that
yr., 1st Santa Fe Ry. passenger train arrived, bringing advance influx of immi-
grants, buffalo hunters, card sharps, gamblers & adventurers. Buffalo hunting soon
became important pursuit; before depot could be built, buffalo hides by thousands
were awaiting shipment. Before end of 1875, great herds of shaggy animals, esti-
mated to number 25,000,000 or more in Dodge City territory, were practically
exterminated. For some yrs. afterward, buffalo bones were collected & shipped E.
for fertilizer; it came to be said that in Dodge City buffalo bones were legal tender.
Soon after, Tex. longhorns driven by hundreds of cowboys & trl. bosses began
arriving over Tex. Trl.; in 1882, Dodge City took its turn as cowboy capital of SW.
Shooting frays became frequent; long & colorful succession of marshalls & sheriffs
were hired to keep peace. Gradually Dodge City became less important as cattle
center, as other snipping terminals were est.; & in 1884, increase of cattle disease
known as Tex. fever brought legislation forbidding importation of Tex. cattle. Dodge
City brought cattle era to resounding close with 4th of July celebration which incL
bull fight first & probably^ only one held in U.S.; advance announcement of it
prompted St. & Fed. authorities to wire that show could not be given in U.S., but
Mayor A. B. Webster merely wired in reply: "Dodge City is not in the U.S." Dodge
City, thereafter, turned to agric. as surrounding land was sown to wheat & other
crops.
FTS. OF INT.: (1) 2nd Ave. & Water St., Old Lone Tree, dead cottonwood trunk
with mem. plate, marks site where town was founded in 1872. Bronze tablets mark
(2) Site of First Bldg., 305 2nd Ave.; (3) Site of First School, 1st Ave. & 
