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THE 

AIS/IERICAN 


SeVeiMXW     EDITIOM. 


WfilTXHiM^ 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2006  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/americanpastrycoOOwhitrich 


Volume  1  of  the  "Oven  and  Range"  Series. 


-^THE-4- 


AMERICAN 
PASTRY  COOK 


-^      SEVENTH  EDITION.      i^ 


A  Book  of  perfected  Receipts,  for  making  all  sorts  of  articles  required 

of  the  Hotel  Pastry  Cook,  Baker  and  Confectioner,  especially 

adapted  for  Hotel  and  Steamboat  use,  and  for 

Cafes  and  Fine  Bakeries. 


Jessup  Whitehead. 


CHICAGO: 

Jessup  Whitehead  &  Co.,  Publishers. 
10  94. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress, 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C 

Right  of  Translation  reserved. 


AGRiC. 
LIBRARY 


ADVERTISEMENT, 


THIS  BOOK  is  especially  adapted  for  use  in  Hotels,  Boarding-Houses, 
Confectionery-Caf^s,  Restaurants  and  Eating-Houses  generally,  in  which 
respect  it  enters  upon  a  field  hitherto  unoccupied.  The  quantities  of  the 
receipts  are  calculated  for  what  experience  has  taught  the  author  are  the, 
average  orders  of  about  fifty  persons  choosing  from  a  bill  of  fare,  but 
which  are  really  only  about  thirty  portions.  In  many  of  the  more  import-, 
ant  matters,  such  as  Puff  Paste,  Bread  and  Eolls,  Cakes,  Ices,  Creams,  and 
Pie  Mixtures,  and  in  Cold  Meat  Dishes,  Corned  Beef  management,  and 
Salads,  the  standard  of  one  pound  or  quart  used  will  be  found  to  make  the 
receipts  equally  useful  for  private  families,  and  the  trouble  of  dividing  the 
larger  quantities  in  other  cases  will  probably  be  fully  repaid  by  the  simple 
conciseness  of  the  directions,  the  absence  of  all  technical  jargon,  and  the 
professional  knowledge  of  the  art  of  cookery  imparted  in  every  page.  The 
book  is  unique  also  in  having  all  the  articles  directed  to  be  made  graded 
in  regard  to  cost,  to  meet  the  requirements  both  of  those  who  do  cooking 
fov    pleasure    and  those  who  are  concerned  in  cooking  for  profit. 


Since  the  above  was  first  printed  another  book  has  been  issued  by  the 
same  author,  in  which  all  of  the  receipts  are  reduced  to  the  guage  of  meals 
for  six  or  eight.  It  is  especially  adapted  to  teach  cooking  as  a  trade  for 
women  in  private  houses,  and  includes  everything  likely  to  be  of  use  for 
the  purpose,  arranged  in  order  from  the  cheapest  meals  up  to  party  dinners 
and  suppers.     It  is  called  the  Chicago  Herald  Cooking  School. 


Introductory  in  the  National  Hotel  Reporter. 


For  any  apparent  presuraptuousness  there  may  be 
in  spreading  these  cooking  receipts  and  instructions 
before  the  professed  cooks  of  the  country  in  the  most 
widely  circulated  and  most  influential  hotel  journal, 
I  have  to  oflFer  as  apology  that  I  was  long  ago  im- 
pressed with  the  singular  fact,  that  among  all  the  ex- 
cellent cooks,  hardly  any  could  be  found  who  worked 
by  any  rule  or  measure.  This  was  especially  the 
case  with  American  cooks.  They  knew  how  them- 
selves, but  could  not  have  given  exact  instructions 
even  to  their  sons  without  first  instituting  a  series  of 
experiments,  and  their  knowledge  perished  with 
them.  I  simply  set  to  work  to  reduce  my  portion  of 
the  general  knowledge  to  exact  figures,  and  the  merit 
claimed  therefore  is  not  for  very  extraordinary 
skill,  but  rather  for  the  painstaking  industry  that 
has  never  allowed  a  receipt  to  be  put  away  marked 
0.  K.,  without  being  satisfied  that  it  was  quite  re- 
liable. 

Another  consideration  offered  is,  that  the  stewards, 
and  others,  who  buy  for  cooks  to  use,  not  being,  in 
the  great  majority  of  ca«es,  practical  cooks  them- 
selves, are  apt  to  consider  many  of  the  demands  of 
the  cooks  for  certain  kinds  of  materials  necessary  to 
good  work,  as  but  unreasonable  whims,  not  worthy 
of  notice,  and  it  is  difficult  to  see  how  the  requisite 
explanations  are  ever  to  be  made,  unless  through 
some  such  means  and  medium  as  the  present, 

J.  W. 
Daily  National  Hotel  Reporter,  Oct.,  1878. 


RECEIPT  OR  RECIPE? 


'  Which  is  right  ?  Worcester  says  that  a  recipe  is  a 
receipt  for  cooking ;  also,  that  it  is  a  formulary  or 
prescription  for  mixing  certain  articles,  particularly 
in  medicine.  Webster,  also,  makes  recipe  and  re- 
ceipt appear  nearly  synonymous  terms,  and  attaches 
to  the  former  a  particularly  medical  meaning  that  is 
nowhere  made  to  belong  to  the  other..  The  French 
recette,  which  appears  to  be  the  original  of  our  re- 
ceipt, is  pronounced  like  it;  and  yet  all  the  translated 
French  books  have  recipe  inst-ead.  Of  half  a  dozen 
different  articles  on  the  grocer's  shelves,  four  have 
recipes  printed  on  the  packages  while  others  give  re- 
ceipts. Of  six  persons  talking  together,  four  or  five 
will  say  recipe,  the  rest  receipt.  The  label  on  the 
bottle  tells  you  that  the  sauce  beside  your  plate  was 
prepared  from  the  receipt  of  a  nobleman  of  the 
county.  But  the  nobleman's  only  authoritative 
English  cook-book  uses  recipe.  By  its  side  is  another 
later  and  very  compendious  work  which  is  adver- 
Ssed  as  containing  so  many  thousand  receipts.  Still 
another  more  recent  and  even  more  compendious 
London  book,  uses  the  other  word.  Both  words  are 
right,  but  which  is  the  better  ? 

Several  hundred  pages  of  the   matter  which  it  is 
proposed   to  publish  in  this  column,  had  been  writ- 


ten with  the  word  recipe,  according  to  the  observed 
practice  of  the  majority,  but  after  all  it  was  decided 
to  change  it,  and  for  reasons  perhaps  as  immaterial 
as  the  difference  between  the  two  words  in  question. 
Still,  the  minority  side  having  been  taken,  it  seems 
best  to  state  the  case. 

A  city  man,  wise  in  the  ways  of  bread  making, 
was  at  an  old  Yankee  farmer's  house  instructing 
his  housekeeper  in  the  best  methods  of  making  home- 
made Boston  brown  bread,  and  used  the  word  recipe 
frequently.  The  old  man  was  not  illiterate,  but  ex- 
cessively old-fashioned,  and  the  trisyllable  annoyed 
him  past  bearing.  He  laid  down  the  Churchman  that 
he  had  been  reading,  and  leaned  back  and  listened. 
Then  he  took  off  his  glasses.  Then  he  began  to  re- 
monstrate. "Oh,  don't  bring  those  affected  city 
words  among  us  plain  people.  'Recipee,'  "  he  re- 
peated, with  immeasurable  contempt.  "My  parents 
always  said  receipt ;  my  neighbors  all  say  receipt, 
what  would  they  think  of  us  if  we  should  go  among 
them  putting  on  such  airs  as  that  ?' ' 

As  I  overheard  this,  and  a  cutting  phillipic  which 
followed,  aimed  at  city  affectations  in  general,  my 
faith  in  the  power  of  high-sounding  recipe  to  soothe 
the  savage  breast  was  considerably  weakened.  A  long 
time  after,  and  at  a  very  distant  place,  a  lady  school 
teacher  was  heard  to  say:  "lam  so  glad  if  receipt  is 
the  right  word  instead  of  recipe ;  the  latter  seems  so 
much  like  a  stranger  in  a  foreign  dress  among  our 
familiar  English  words  of  the  same  dimensions. 
When  I  have  taught  my  pupils  to  indite  and  recite, 
it  is  troublesome  to  make  them  understand  that  rec- 
ipe is  not  to  be  pronounced  that  way  at  all,  and  then, 
again,  to  stop  them  from  making  two  syllables  of 
ripe,  wipe,  and  pipe." 

This  was  another  blow  at  the  aristocratic  trisyllable, 
but  it  seemed  hard  to  have  to  descend  from  the  lofty 
heights  where  it  prevailed  to  the  level  of  the  com- 
mon. Fortunately,  just  at  that  time,  the  great  house 
of  the  Harpers  published  the  most  polite  cook-book 
that  has  yet  appeared.  It  made  extreme  correctness 
a  special  feature.  It  was  typographically  perfect. 
It  hyp'henated  every  cocoanut  It  split  hairs  on  tea- 
spoonful.  It  followed  Noah  Webster  whithersoever 
he  might  lead.  It  was  "the  glass  of  fashion  and  the 
mould — I  mean  mold — of  form,"  and  with  all  this  it 
adopted  receipt  instead  of  recipe. 

There  was  no  more  room  for  doubt.  Higher  prece- 
dent there  could  not  be,  and  so,  if  the  reader  pleases, 
as  far  as  this  column  is  concerned,  we  will  render 
unto  the  doctors  the  Latin  trisyllable  which  is  their, 
and  use  only  the  humbler  but  safer  English  receipt. 


NOTES  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION, 


The  "American  Pastry  Cook"  having  met  with  so 
much  favor  that  a  second  edition  has  become  neces- 
sary, it  may  perhaps  be  allowed  me  to  make  a  state- 
ment of  the  simple  origin  of  the  book,  as  much  as 
anything  in  acknofrledgment  of  the  kind  encourage- 
ment of  a  great  number  of  frionds  who  bought  un- 
doubtedly without  any  thought  of  using  it.  All 
such  books,  if  worth  considering  at  all,  have  had  a 
motive,  either  to  introduce  foreign  methods,  found 
a  new  school  of  cookery,  teach  new  extremes  of  or- 
namentation, or  put  into  practice  the  theories  of 
great  chemists  or  of  new  idea  doctors — Leibig, 
Graham,  the  vegetarians  and  the  like.  The  <-Oven 
and  Range  '  series  was  not  so  deliberately  planned 
and  if  a  motive  may  be  claimed  in  this  case  it  is  to 
make  good  cooks,  such  as  are  always  wanted,  and 
to  raise  the  occupation  of  cooks  in  America  at  least 
to  the  dignity  of  a  recognized  trade. 

When,  a  good  many  years  ago,  I  used  to  find  my- 
self in  positions  on  sea  and  river,  in  hotels  and  re- 
taurants  where  the  assistants  always  coming  and 
going  were  generally  willing  enough  while  they 
stayed,  but  could  not  do  good  work,  I  began  to  see 
the  absurdity  of  knowing  what  I  wanted  done  and 
yet  being  unable  to  ma'-je  others  understand,  and  I 
began  pencilling  down  weights,  measures  and  direc- 
tions for  Lhem  to  work  by — not  pastries  alone  but  a 
little  of  everything— and  hanging  these  directions 
on  the  nails  along  with  each  assistant's  portion  of 
the  bill  of  fare  for  the  next  meal.  All  coo?  s  that 
are  worthy  of  being  called  such  are  emulative  and 
try  to  excel.  They  "hit  it  exactly"  in  making  a 
dish,  sometimes,  are  highly  elated  and  wish  they 
could  always  have  such  "good  luck."  In  my  own 
practice  whenever  any  of  us  "hit  it  exactly"  I 
simply  penciled  dosvnhow  it  was  done,  and  kept  on 
changing  and  improving  until  I  was  in  a  great 
measure  independent  of  the  circumstances  of  the 
boys  "jumping  out;"  anybody  smart  enough  to 
work  by  written  directions  could  make  what  I  told 
them.  These  receipts  were  necessarily  plain,  and 
as  necessarily  correct  and  reliable,  and  they  were 
of  great  value.  In  course  of  time  there  were  some 
hundreds  of  them  and  they  made  a  bulky  package. 
Is  there  any  wonder  that  the  thought  occurred  that 
they  would  be  more  u.seful  in  print?  Is  there  any 
need  to  explain  further  why  the  writer  has  confi- 
dence in  his  book  ?  Those  exact  and  plainly  word- 
ed receipts,  with  others  of  course  added,  form  the 
•  Oven  and  Range"  cook  books.  There  has  been 
nothing  but  pleased  surprise,  kind  words  and  good 


reports  connected  with  the  circulation  of  the  pastry 
book  as  far  as  it  has  gone  already,  the  anxiety  being 
expressed  in  numberless  instances  to  obtain  more' 
books  of  the  same  sort.  The  careful  plan  adopted  of 
making  the  work  reliable  in  every  particular  has 
prevented  its  being  written  and  finished  in  haste. 


Little  Desserts.— This  book  has  been  taken 
up  with  avidity  by  many  outside  of  hotels,  seeiiing 
instructions  how  to  make  nice  sweet  dishes,  some 
of  whom  seem  to  think  they  know  all  they  need  to 
learn  of  meat  cooking  when  they  can  broil  and  fry, 
but  who  acknowledge  the  difficulty  that  prevails 
everywhere  when  well-to-do  people  ask  why  they 
cannot  have  at  least  a  few  of  the  dainty  trifles  at 
their  private  tables  that  thoy  have  enjoyed  in  such 
profusion  at  a  few  very  good  hotels.  It  is,  briefly, 
because  pastry-cooking  cannot  be  picked  up  like 
meat  frying,  but  must  be  learned.  In  order  to  help 
the  matter  I  will  suggest  things  to  be  tried.  Let 
those  who  would  not  have  pies  every  day  and  only 
pies,  practice  the  difi"erent  cream  fillings  and  make 
all  sorts  of  delectable  forms  of  pastry  of  them.  I 
have  called  some  of  these  conserves  because  the 
word  cream  is  worked  to  death.  The  articles  allud- 
ed to  are  pineapple  creamer  conserve,  apple  cream, 
orange  conserve  or  tart  filling,  lemon  conserve  or 
lemon  honey, transparent  pie  mixture,  cocoanut  and 
lemon  pie  mixtures,  pastry  cream  or  custard, choco- 
late cream,  cheese  curd  mixtures,  and  many  more 
that  are  in  the  book  but  which  need  not  be  named. 
Let  it  be  observed  that  all  of  the  receipts  for  mak- 
ing them  are  perfectly  reliable  and  they  can  be 
taken  up  and  used  any  time  without  fear  of  failure. 
This  will  be  found  a  perfect  little  mine  of  good 
things.  When  they  are  understood  make  tarts  in 
patty  pans  of  them,  then  covered  tarts,  then  cheese 
cakes,  apple  shortcake.  Napoleon  cake,  Saratoga 
shortcake,  apple  turnovers,  mince  patties, using  the 
difi'crcnt  creams  or  sweets  at  difi'erent  times.  Then 
make  the  open  tarts  with  meringue  on  top  like 
lemon  pies;  make  apple  shortcakes  with  meringue 
or  frosting  on  top  or  between  the  layers,  and  so  you 
can  keep  on  indefinitely. 

Tlien  take  notice  of  the  fruit  charlottes,  the  apple 
and  peach  charlottes  and  friar's  omelet.  Since  the 
book  has  been  published  I  have  seen  two  of  the  most 
accomplished  French  cooks  of  this  part  of  the 
country  practicing  those  articles  with  others  from  it 
with  evident  interest  and  satisfaction — for  it  doei 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


not  follow  because  a  man  is  a  splendid  cook  already 
that  he  must  have  practiced  everything  that  is 
Vnown;  we  are  all  still  learning  or  trying  some  old 
favorite  for  the  first  time. 

Then,  attention  should  be  paid  to  the  many 
varieties  of  boiled  custards  in  cups.  There  are 
tapioca  custard,  rice,  farina,  sago,  manioca,  granula 
cocoanut,  chocolate,  caramel,  wine,  and  plain  cus- 
tards flavored.  The  receipts  give  you  the  exact 
proportions  to  malte  them  so  that  everybody  likes 
them,  and  they  direct  you  to  serve  them  ice  cold. 
There  are  custards  with  whipped  cream  on  top,  and 
with  frosting  browned  over,  and  custards  baked 
and  steamed.  Then  remember  the  different  dishes 
made  with  cake  and  custard,  the  floating  islands, 
the  gipsey  pudding  and  then  the  diff'erent  ways  of 
making  a  charlotte  russe. 

I  write  these  lines  in  the  interest  of  people  who 
want  nice  things  on  their  tables  and  not  caring  par- 
ticularly about  the  cost  wish  to  know  how  it  is  that 
cooks  in  general  have  such  a  very  limited  know- 
ledge of  this  line  of  business.  As  the  utmost  pains 
has  been  bestowed  upon  the  book  in  the  hope  to 
supply  this  deficiency  of  knowledge  I  can  do  no 
less  than  point  them  and  their  cooks  to  these  pages. 

Then  there  are  the  molded  creams, which  to  know 
how  to  make  perfectly  is  a  pleasing  art  in  itself; 
they  are  the  blanc  manges,  the  Bavarian,  chocolate, 
strawberry,  Roman  and  all  that  line.  Most  of  the 
finest  foreign  menus  have  Bavarian  cream  in  some 
form  or  under  some  name  as  Bavaroise  auzfraises 
(with  strawberries)  or  au  chocolat,  or  o  herwise, 
and  many  of  the  diplomatic  and  court  banquets 
show  the  same.  They  all  can  be  easily  made  and 
are  simple  when  once  learned.  I  have  always  found 
that  something  of  the  sort  is  highly  appreciated  at 
the  end  of  a  dinner,  particularly  whea  there  is  no 
icecream. 

While  claiming  to  excel  in  making  these  creams 
myself  and  having  made  others  working  under  me 
excel  in  the  same  line  of  articles,  I  must  own  that 
I  would  not,  to  use  the  common  expression,  touch 
with  a  ten-foot  pole  these  so-called  creams  as  they 
are  commonly  made  by  unskillful  cooks.  But  they 
are  served  daily  in  great  perfection  at  a  few  of  the 
very  best  Chicago  hotels.  Everything  necessary  to 
be  said  about  them  has  been  set  down  in  the  dl 
rections  in  the  book. 

The  puddings  alone  will  furnish  a  change  and 
variety  that  may  surprise  many  who  try  them,  and 
some  are  so  little  like  pudding  they  seem  to  de- 
serve a  finer  name.  Where  all  are  good  it  is 
scarcely  fair  to  single  out  any,  yet,  to  point  the 
meaning  I  wi  1  instance  the  birds-nest  pudding  as 
being  almost  a  dish  of  baked  fruit,  and,  not  least, 
there  remain  the  fritters  both  plain  and  with  fruit, 
meringues  of  cake  and  Jruit  and  pastry  and  fruit, 
frosted  over,  and  jellies  and  compotes,  and  every 
one  who  delights  in  making  little  desserts    is    con- 


tinually  inventing  some    new    combination.     And 
we  have  not  yet  mentioned  the  ice  creams. 


About  Whipped  Oream  — In  close  con- 
nection with  the  Bavarian  and  Italian  creams  the 
pure  whipped  cream  regarded  as  most  delicious 
among  desserts  has  to  be  considered.  Those  creams 
when  genuine  are  made  of  pure  cream  whipped  to 
froth  and  stiffened  with  gelatine. 

The  amount  of  gelatine  required  is  only  half  an 
ounce  to  a  quart  of  cream  when  it  is  but  to  fill  a 
charlotte  russe,  or  be  a  simple  cream  in  a  mold, 
but  if  strawberry  juice  and  pulp  is  to  be  added 
or  maraschino  or  wine  then  an  ounce  to  a  quart 
will  be  needed.  If  you  put  pure  cream  in  a  deep 
pan,  set  it  on  ice  and  be  at  with  the  wireegg-whisk  it 
will  become  thick  and  firm  enough  to  fill  small 
charlottes  without  anythingaddedat  all,  except,  of 
course,  a  little  sugar  and  flavoring,  and  it  will  not 
go  down  again  as  long  as  it  is  kept  cold. 

When  the  greater  firmness  is  wanted  so  that  it 
can  be  turned  out  of  a  mold  the  half-ounce  of  gel- 
atine to  a  quart  must  be  dissolved  in  a  little  warm 
milk  and  poured  into  the  cream  while  you  are 
whipping  it  light. 

But  there  is  so  much  difficulty  in  most  hotels  in 
getting  cream  for  the  pastry  cook  to  use  that  I 
have  about  given  up  the  use  of  it  altogether.  It  is 
not  always  the  question  of  cost  that  makes  the  dif- 
ficulty but  the  actual  scarcity  of  cream  and  the 
greater  need  for  it  in  other  ways  than  in  the  pastry, 
so  the  receipts  for  the  made  creams  and  charlottes 
will  be  found  to  call  for  no  cream,  but  use  milk  in- 
stead, They  can  be  made  so  good  that  the  lack  of 
cream  is  never  observed.  The  difficulty  does  not 
so  generally  exist  when  parties  in  private  houses 
are  to  be  given  and  I  advise  the  use  of  pure  cream 
when  possible,  although  it  is  valuable  to  know  how 
to  do  without. 


Individual  Oharlotte-Russe.— A  favorite 
little  dainty  of  this  sort  is  sold  at  the  city  confec- 
tioneries that  is  made  in  a  paper  case,  size  and 
shape  of  a  common  tin  cup  of  the  half  pint  size.  A 
sheet  of  sponge  cake  is  baked  on  paper,  taken  oflF 
and  cut  in  pieces  that  will  just  fit  inside  the  cases, 
a  bottom  piece  is  put  in  and  then  the  charlotte  is 
filled  with  a  spoontnl  of  whipped  cream,  sweetened 
and  flavored  but  whipped  up  without  gelatine. 
But  they  are  made  for  fine  parties  in  paper  cases  of 
the  shape  of  small  tumblers,  wider  at  top  than  at 
bottom  so  that  they  can  be  taken  out  of  the 
case  when  served,  as  the  pattern  with  straight- 
up  sides  cannot.  These  are  lined  with  either  cake 
or  lady  fingers,  but  Im  give  them  firmness  enough 
to  be  removed  from  the  cases  a  little  gelatine  has 
to  be  added  to  the  pure  cream,  as  explained  in  the 
note  about  whipped  cream. 

But  another  way  most  suitable  of  all  when  these 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


3 


little  charlottes  are  to  be  served  at  ball  suppers,  as 
they  can  be  held  in  gloved  fingers,  is  to  make  them 
in  handsome  ornamented  paper  cases,  size  of  small 
tumblers  which  may  be  bought  ready  made  for  the 
purpose  in  some  places  or  otherwise  can  be  made  of 
fine  unruled  paper  at  home.  The  lining  may  be 
sometimes  of  white  cake  and  another  time  of  yel- 
low, and  either  pure  whipped  cream  or  any  of  the 
made  creams  can  be  used  for  filling.  The  same 
sort  of  charlottes  are  held  in  high  favor  at  hotel 
dinners  when  they  are  formed  in  deep  muflBn  rings 
without  bottoms,  kept  very  cold  and  slipped  out 
of  the  rings  when  served.  I  have  practiced  that 
more  than  any  other  way.  A  cup  of  pure  thick 
cream  when  whipped  fills  about  eight  of  these  small 
charlottes,  so  that  a  calculation  can  be  made  of 
how  much  will  be  required. 


Individual  Puddings.— It  is  the  practice  in 
all  the  best  hotels  to  serve  the  puddings  in  individ- 
ual forms.  In  the  receipts  in  this  book  it  will  be 
found  that  the  baked  puddings  are  all  directed  to 
be  cooked  first  by  boiling  the  main  ingredients  to- 
gether then  adding  the  eggs  and  then  to  be  baked 
only  a  short  time.  This  baking  is  done  in  white 
bowls  that  hold  from  a  cupful  to  a  pint  and  the 
puddings  are  served  in  the  same  bowl  set  in  a  plate 
and  an  individual  pitcher  of  sauce  with  it,  if  the 
pudding  needs  a  sauce,  for  family  dinners  granite 
ware  or  tin  dishes  are  in  use  with  an  outside  silver- 
plated  dish  to  hold  it  and  a  plated  ring  to  drop 
over  and  cover  the  rim.  Custard  puddings,  mac- 
aroon, brandy,  cabinet  and  a  number  of  others  de- 
scribed in  the  book  can  be  cooked  in  the  cups  and 
then  turned  out  in  the  saucers  to  serve.  Boiled  or 
steamed  puddings  can  be  cooked  in  individual  tin 
molds  and  turned  out  on  saucers. 

An  improved  way  of  cooking  steamed  apple  roll 
and  other  fruit  puddings  of  the  same  sort  is  prac- 
ticed in  places  where  the  steaming  facilities  are 
good.  The  pudding  is  not  a  roll  at  all  and  no 
cloth  is  used,  but  a  crust  rolled  out  is  laid  on  the 
bottom  of  a  pan,  then  a  layer  of  chopped  apples, 
another  crust,  more  apples  and  a  third  crust  on  top, 
then  it  is  set  in  the  steamer,  cut  out  slices  or 
squares.  It  is  but  little  trouble  and  does  just  as 
well.  A  light  dough  made  with  plenty  of  baking 
powder  and  no  shortening  whatever  is  employed  in 
some  of  the  paying  restaurants  for  steamed  apple 
roll. 


Ices. — Let  none  be  deceived  about  the  ices  in 
this  book  because  they  are  offered  without  the  im. 
poseiveness  of  tremendous  French  names.  There  is 
no  finer  assortment  of  ices  known  than  these  in  the 
following  pages.  The  changes  and  combinations 
possible  with  them  are  practically  endless  and  one 
who  is  master  of  them  need  have  no  fear  of  ever 
"getting  left '  in  a  competitive  trial.     It  is    hard  to 


say  in  such  matters  as  these  exactly  where  old  pat- 
terns are  departed  from  and  originality  begins.  It 
is  true,  however,  that  these  are  all  newly  adap. 
ted  to  hotel  use  being  on  the  whole  an  invention  of 
a  set  of  ways  of  serving  a  magnificent  array  of  ices  in 
places  where  the  resort  to  molds  and  brick  shapes- 
was  not  possible  with  the  small  number  of  hands 
employed  and  perhaps  the  comparative  scarcity  of 
ice.  I  keep  up  a  constant  run  of  novelties  by  serv- 
ing two  kinds  at  once  in  the  same  saucer  or  glass 
and  making  ices  of  almost  every  kind  of  sweet  and 
fruity  material.  In  order  to  do  this  without  mak- 
ing incongruous  mixtures  less  acceptable  than  com- 
mon ice  cream  the  greatest  care  and  skill  must  be 
exercised  both  in  compounding,  coloring  and  freez- 
ing. Even  if  we  make  the  o'd  foreign  favorites 
they  have  to  be  supplied  with  plainer  names  for 
hotel  bills  of  fare.  Take  for  instance  "tutti-frutti;" 
when  the  hotel  keeper  has  ice  cream  provided  he  of 
course  wants  the  guests  to  know  it  and  get  the  good 
of  it,  but  not  one  in  a  hundred  of  them  that  come  to 
hotels  knows  what  tutti-frutti  is  by  that  name,  and 
much  disappointment  may  be  felt  on  that  account. 
I  would  not  be  understood  as  advising  the  use 
of  even  the  terms  attached  in  this  book  to  the  sev- 
eral combinations.  That  is  a  matter  of  indiflfer- 
ence.  When  you  have  two  fancy  ices  at  once,  per- 
haps a  pale  green  grape  ice  and  a  deep  colored 
frozen  custard  call  it  ice  cream  in  the  style  of  your 
hotel  or  of  some  other  famous  one.  In  regard  to 
the  tutti-frutti  receipt  in  the  book  it  ought  perhaps 
to  be  said  that  the  outer  coating  of  orange  ice  is 
not  necessary  for  common  dinners,  it  is  an  extra 
touch  for  a  mold  or  bombe.  This  sort  of  frozen 
pudding  can  be  dished  out  of  ■^he  freezer  with  or 
without  a  white  ice  like  a  frozen  sauce  at  the  side. 
The  sense  of  some  of  these  extras  is  never  appar- 
ent until  you  have  a  table  decorated  with  crystal, 
china  and  flowers  to  supply.  The  best  workmen 
after  they  have  made  the  three  creams  or  fruit 
ices  for  Neapolitan  and  frozen  them  in  brick- 
shaped  or  Neapolitan  molds  take  them  out  a  good 
while  before  dinner  time,  wrap  each  form  after  it 
is  taken  out  of  the  mold  in  manilla  paper  and  put 
them  in  a  large  freezer  well  packed  with  ice  and 
salt  and  keep  them  there  frozen  and  dry  until  they 
are  wanted.  This  saves  hurry  and  melting  by 
handling  while  dinner  is  going  on.  Line  your 
brick  molds  with  manilla  paper,  or  at  least  the 
bottom  and  top,  before  putting  in  the  ice  cream. 
It  is  easier  to  take  the  cream  out  and  also  makes 
the  lids  fit  tighter. 


Bread. — A  good  deal  of  wholesome  enthusiasm 
has  been  evoked  by  the  contents  of  the  "book  of 
breads;"  the  slight  drawback  has  been  that  those 
who  followed  out  the  proper  method  of  wording 
the  dough  have  been  surprised  by  their  bread  be- 
coming too  light;    that  is  of  being    ready    to    bake 


TEE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


before  they  believed  it  could  be  and  before  they 
were  ready  for  it.  It  is  stated  in  the  directions 
that  under  proper  methods  the  dough  needs  no 
coaxing,  no  setting  under  the  stove,  it  will  rise  al- 
most anywhere.  A  hint  may  be  ta^.en  from  the 
management  of  Vienna  bread,  the  dough  for  which 
is  made  light  once,  then  well  kneaded,  made  into 
loaves,  cut  across  tlie  tops  and  baked  very  soon 
after  without  being  allowed  to  get  much  proof  or 
rising  in  the  loaf  shape.  It  is  put  into  an  oven 
that  is  very  hot  at  first  but  bui  t  with  a  low  roof  so 
that  the  bread  crowded  in  fills  the  oven  with  steam 
in  which  the  baking  is  finished.  Ovens  not  spe- 
cially built  for  Vienna  bread  have  a  steam  pipe 
leading  into  the  oven  to  serve  the  same  purpose, 
and  rotary  ovens  have  wet  bricks  thrown  into  the 
fire  to  fill  the  oven  with  steam.  However  interest- 
ing the  subject  it  will  generally  be  found  too  much 
tfouble  to  make  stock  yeast  in  very  small  houses, 
but  a  starting  may  be  obtained  from  some 
friendly  ba'Acr  or  else  dry  yeast  cakes  must  be 
used  to  start  the  ferment.  An  attempt  to  do  too 
much  is  very  apt  to  end  in  weariness.  But  alj 
pastry  cooks  ought  to  make  stock  sometimes,  to 
keep  in  practice,  even  if  they  are  using  the  com- 
pressed in  a  regular  way. 

Attention  is  particularly  called  to  the  method 
in  this  book  of  taking  a  piece  of  light  dough  from 
the  rolls  or  bread  to  make  various  light  fancy 
breads,  muffins,  waffles  and  the  like.  It  not  only 
makes  the  directions  short  and  plain  but  makes  it 
easy  to  turn  out  a  great  variety  with  but  little  ex- 
tra trouble  over  common  bread.  One  setting  of 
sponge  does  for  everything. 


Plain  Covered  Pies- — It  has  happened  sev- 
eral times  during  the  introduction  of  the  first 
edition  that  I  have  had  to  bear  unfavorable  com- 
ments upon  the  pies  and  pastries  of  some  gener- 
ally good  workmen,  in  the  form  of  a  hope  by  the 
steward,  clerk,  or  proprietor,  as  the  case  has  hap- 
pened to  be,  that  the  book  would  give  them  a  hint 
to  make  the  old  fashioned  covered  pies,  and  not 
the  heavy  and  greasy  ones  they  were  making.  It 
is  much  to  be  feared  that  our  book  has  fal'en  short 
of  its  duty  in  this  particular;  still  it  has  been  said 
over  and  over  that  pufF  paste  is  not  good  unless  it 
is  perfect  or  nearly  so.  Sonic  kitchens  and  pastry 
rooms  are  so  hot  it  is  impossible  to  make  fine  paste 
in  them,  and,  after  all,  the  greater  number  of  peo- 
ple are  as  well  or  better  pleased  with  good  short 
paste.  Take  two  cups  of  lard  to  seven  cups  of 
flour — or  a  pound  of  shortening  to  two  pounds  of 
flour  and  a  little  salt  and  rub  them  together  dry, 
wet  them  with  ice  water,  mix  up  and  give  the 
lump  of  paste  two  or  three  rollings  in  order  to 
make  it  fla'-^y.  The  same  sort  of  paste  but  moi'e 
crisp  and  dry  can  be  made  with  suet  chopped  ex- 
tremely fine,  weighing  or    otherwise  making    sure 


that  you  have  enough.  But  when  suet  is  used  it 
will  be  found  best  to  mix  up  with  water  slightly  warm 
that  the  suet  may  be  soft  enough  to  spread  and  be 
flaky  under  the  rolling-pin,  and  then  let  the  paste 
stand  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted.  Good  cooking 
apples  and  other  pie  fruits  can  be  put  in  the  pie 
raw  and  a  little  sugar  sprinkled  over,  then  a  top 
crust  put  on.  These  after  all,  are  the  real  American 
pies;  our  open  pies  with  fine  high  puff  pate  edges 
are  tourtes,  flans  and  vols-au  vent. 


Strawberry  Shortcake. — Some  dissatisfac- 
tionhas  been  expressed  at  the  strawberry  shortcaRe 
question  being  left  in  this  book  in  an  unsettled 
condition.  But  it  is  a  fact  as  everybody  knows 
that  when  strawberries  first  come  in  all  the  con" 
fectioners' windows  display  different  kinds  of  straw" 
berry  shortcake  that  are  anything  but  the  true  ar' 
tide,  being  sometimes  squares  of  sweet  cake  with 
strawberries  on  top  and  whipped  white  of  egg 
on  that — as  little  like  the  proper  thing  as  it  possi- 
bly can  be.  I  have  no  hesitation  now  in  saying 
these  are  all  wrong  and  the  only  genuine  article  is 
made  as  I  was  schooled  into  making  it  myself  years 
ago  by  the  wife  of  the  present  Secretary  of  the  In. 
terior,  one  of  the  most  critical  judges  of  cookery, 
as  she  is  herself  one  of  the  most  accomplished 
cooks  among  all  the  ladies  in  the  land. 

Make  the  short  paste  as  directed  in  the  preced- 
ing note  for  covered  pies,  only  using  fresh  butter 
to  rub  in  the  flour  instead  of  lard.  Roll  out  nearly 
as  thick  as  for  biscuits,  place  on  jelly  cake  pans 
and  bake.  Cover  the  strawberries  with  powdered 
sugar  in  a  bowl  and  shake  them  up  to  mix.  Split 
the  short  cake,  spread  strawberries  on  both  halves 
and  place  one  on  top  of  the  other.  There  will  be 
strawberries,  of  course,  on  top  as  well  as  between. 
Serve  a  pitcher  of  cold  sweet  cream  at  the  side. 
There  should  not  be  baking  powder  or  any  other 
sort  of  rising  in  this  cake  but  the  cold  butter  alone, 
which  makes  it  light  enough. 


City  and  Country  Pastry  Cooks.— Hay- 
ing paid  attention  in  the  foregoing  notes  to  some 
things  that  they  in  the  front  of  the  house  have  said, 
it  is  in  turn  to  mention  that  some  pastry  cooks 
claim  that  it  takes  a  much  smarter  man  to  be  a  first- 
class  pastry  cook  or  meat  cook  either  in  a  country  ho- 
tel or  a  hotel  in  any  small  city  than  it  does  in  a  per- 
fectly fitted-up  great  house  in  New  York  or  Chica- 
go. It  is  argued  with  perfect  justice  that  in  these 
great  establishments  one  man  does  but  one  set  of 
duties  within  certain  hours  and  has  everything 
properly  ada  ted  for  his  use, and  such  a  one  could  not 
begin  to  do  as  well  as  the  general  pastry  cook  in 
the  ordinary  hotels  of  small  cities  does  with  all  the 
deficiencies  and  disadvantages  he  has  to  contend 
with.  This  thing  properly  considered  by  employ- 
ers would  often    save    them    the    disappointments 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


they  experience  when,  thinking  they  will  be  made 
up  and  get  their  work  done  right,  they  send  for  a 
pastry  cook  from  the  big  city  and  find  that  he 
either  cannot  or  will  not  try  to  get  along  when 
they  have  got  him.  The  young  men  that  have 
learned  and  practiced  only  one  department  of  hote^ 
cooking  are  not  the  ones  that  give  satisfaction  in 
small  houses.  The  pastry  cooks  of  these  houses 
have  to  invent  their  own  ways,  and  learn  to  do 
splendid  work  under  conditions  that  would  make 
the  others  afraid  to  take  hold  and  try.  On  account 
of  his  thus  becoming  used  to  adapting  himself  to 
the  place,  the  oven,  and  the  utensils  the  chances 
are  much  better  for  getting  a  great  variety  of  first- 
class  pastry  work  from  an  active,  interested,  gen- 
eral pastry  cook  who  has  learned  in  hotels  of  med- 
ium size  than  from  those  under  the  steady  routine 
of  the  great  caravansaries  Hotel  keepers  should 
encourage  the  training  of  pastry  cooks  in  their 
own  ways  in  their  own  houses,  as  there  are  no 
other  places  for  them  to  learn  general  work  in. 

About  Ovens. — Brick  ovens  are  indisputably 
the  best  for  hotels,  yet,  because  they  are  not  very 
often  met  with,  when  one  is  put  in,  the  pastry 
cook  who  has  been  used  to  baking  in  a  portable 
sheet  iron  oven  or  a  range  or  stove,  finds  it  awk- 
ward to  begin  the  new  way.  Good  pie  baking  can 
be  done  in  the  portable  ovens  for  they  will  bake  on 
the  bottom,  and  good  use  can  be  made  of  the  top  of 
the  fire  box  to  boil  jelly  and  stew  fruit  when  room 
on  the  range  is  not  to  be  had,  but  still  they  are 
Very  imperfect;  they  scorch  the  bread  on  one  side, 
they  are  entirely  unsuitable  for  baking  cake  and 
will  not  keep  anything  hot  without  drying  the  bot- 
tom and  sweating  the  top.  There  is  an  immense 
number  of  them  in  use,  although  many  pastry 
cools' s  and  bakers  will  not  work  with  them  at  all. 
The  same  money  that  buys  them  would  build  a 
brick  oven.  Every  town  has  one  or  more  bricklayers 
or  builders  who  can  build  an  oven,  and  some  have 
a  specialty  in  that  line.  It  will  cost  from  forty  or 
fifty  dollars  upwards  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  or 
more  for  an  ordinary  oven.  The  patent  rotary 
ovens  run  from  five  hundred  to  fifteen  hundred 
dollars.  They  are  for  the  largest  establishments. 
The  floor  rotates  over  the  fire,  the  heat  comes  up 
through  a  hole  or  hub  in  the  center  and  around  the 
circumference,  the  door  is  rarely  closed  but  the  ar- 
ticles put  in  as  the  bottom  passes  the  door  are  car, 
ried  around  and,  if  small,  when  they  come  to  the 
door  again  they  are  done.  Revolving  ovens  carry 
the  shelves  and  pans  up  and  down,  baking  all  over 
alike.  Common  ovens  are  of  two  patterns.  The 
simplest  and  cheapest  has  no  furnace  but  the  fire  is 
made  in  the  oven  itself,  on  the  floor,  and  when  hot 
enough  the  oven  is  raked  out  and  mopped  clean 
and  the  articles  put  in.  Only  one  heat  at  a  time 
can  be  had  and  the  things  that  need  the  most  heat 


go  in  first,  then  the  bread,  after  that  the  cakes. 
The  other  sort  has  a  furnace  at  the  side,  the  heat 
goes  into  the  oven  on  its  way  to  the  chimney  hole 
in  the  top.  It  may  be  known  when  the  oven  is  hot 
and  where  the  cool  corners  are  by  the  smoke  that 
blackens  it  all  over  when  the  fire  is  first  made  but 
disappears  and  leaves  the  bricks  white  when  they 
are  hot.  When  you  have  an  oven  built  be  careful 
to  stipulate  for  a  good  bed  of  sand  under  the  tile 
bottom.  It  holds  heat  and  is  essential  to  the  mak- 
ing of  a  good  oven.  After  a  few  days  practice  one 
who  has  not  been  used  to  an  ovon  learns  how  long 
before  it  is  wanted  the  fire  must  be  started  to  heat 
it,  and  learns  by  the  feel  and  by  the  appearance  of 
the  inside  when  it  is  at  the  right  heat  for  any  pur- 
pose. 


Jelly  Roll — On  account  of  the  common  diffi- 
culty of  getting  blank  paper  to  use  I  have  done  my 
part  towards  abolishing  the  need  of  it  by  baking 
sheets  of  sponge  on  baking  pans  without  paper. 
Very  few,  however,  can  manage  it  quickly  enough 
and  the  cake  dries  and  breads.  Newspapers  can 
not  be  used  for  the  purpose  because  they  are  apt 
to  leave  the  news  of  the  day  impressed  on  the  cake 
in  printing  ink.  Either  thin  manilla  or  blank  news 
paper  should  be  furnished  to  the  pastry  room. 


By  Weight  and  Measure. — It  pays  to  have 
scales  and  be  exact.  The  pastry  cook  does  not 
want  the  pudding  to  come  out  soft  and  slop  ove** 
the  saucers,  nor  the  lemon  pie  to  be  soft  and  run 
off  the  crust,  so  he  throws  in  a  lot  more  eggs  if  he 
cooks  by  guess,  because  he  knows  they  [[will  cook 
solid  and  dry  it  up.  Or,  he  wants  another  pud- 
ding to  be  soft  and  mellow  and  he  throws  in  a  lot 
more  butter,  knowing  that  will  prevent  it  being 
dry  and  tough.  But  in  most  cases  the  extra  eggs 
used  only  to  make  sure  of  a  doubt  do  more  harm 
than  good,  and  the  softness,  like  custard,  that  is 
wanted  can  be  produced  better  by  adding  water  or 
milk  than  by  butter.  The  whole  course  of  guess 
work  cooking  is  full  of  errors.  The  objection  that 
weighing  takes  up  too  much  time  must  bo  met  by 
placing  scales  and  weights  in  a  position  where  they 
are  always  ready  for  instant  use,  on  a  little  shel^ 
nailed  up  about  breast  high  at  the  back  or  end  o^ 
the  pastry  table.  Spring  balances  are  of  no  use  be. 
cause  they  will  not  weigh  by  ounces.  Common 
scales  with  common  iron  weights  are  by  all  odds 
the  best,  for  graded  beams  take  too  much  attention 
lo  find  small  quantities.  The  scales  onee  placed  in 
easy  reach  there  is  nothing  more  needed  to  be  done 
to  get  them  into  use,  for  the  pastry  cook  is  too  glad 
to  have  "a  dead  sure  thing"  on  whatever  he  does, 
and  no  failures,  to  neglect  the  weighing  that  is 
made  easy.  There  are  certain  proportions  of  ingred- 
ients in  every  article  that  make  it  so  good  it  is  im- 
possible for  it  to  be  made  any  better — even  in  common 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


things  lilte  batter  cakes  and  biscuits — and  no  person 
living  can  guess  them  and  be  always  up  to  the  high- 
est mark. 


Oup  and  Spoon  Measure. 


Cooks  who  go  to  places  where  there  are  no  scales 
to  use  will  find  the  following  table  useful. 

A  CUP — Means  the  common  size  of  white  coffee 
cup  generally  used  in  hotels,  that  holds  half  a 
pint. 

Water — "A  pint  is  a  pound  all  the  world  round" 
and  the  standard,  A  cup  being  ^  pint  is  therefore  8 
ounces. 

Milk,  vinegar  and   most  fluids  same  as  water. 

Molasses — A  cup  holds  12  ounces  a  basting 
spoon  2  ounces.  Thin  syrups  do  not  weigh  so 
heavy. 

Eqos — A  cup  of  eggs  broken    is  the    same    ae    5 

eggs- 

Yolks — A  cup  holds  13  yolks — ^  pound. 

Whites — A  cup  holds  9  whites  —  ^  pound. 

Whole  eggs — 10  average  a  pound.  When  you 
have  a  bowl  of  yolks  or  whites  left  over  weigh  or 
measure  and  you  will  know  how  many  there  are. 

Butter — A  cup  of  butter  is  7J  ounces  if  pressed 
in  solid.  It  is  near  enough  generally  to  call  2  cups 
butter  a  pound,  either  pressed  in  or  melted. 

Lard — Same  as  butter. 

Suet — Minced  suet  a  cup  is  4  ounces. 

Chocolate — Grated  cold  chocolate  a  cup  is  3 
ounces. 

Sugar — A  level  cup  of  granulated  sugar  is  7 
ounces.  Although  sugar  by  the  grain  is  heavier 
than  water  the  air  spaces  make  it  measure  lighter. 
A  rounded  cup  is  ^  pound  Fine  icing  sugar  a  cup 
is  but  6  ounces,  dry  yellow  the  same.  All  the 
sugar  that  can  be  scooped  up  out  of  a  barrel  with  a 
cup  weighs  9  ounces. 

Bread  Crumbs — A  cup  of  bread  pressed  in  rath- 
er sold  is  4  ounces.     A  pound  is  a  pressed-in  quart 

Flour — A  level  cup  of  flour  is  4  ounces.  A  cup 
heaped  up  with  all  that  can  be  dipped  with  it  out 
of  a  barrel  weighs  7  ounces,  nearly  twice  the  level 
full.  A  quart  of  flour  just  rounded  over  is  a  pound. 

Corn-meal — A  cup  of  corn-meal  is  5  ounces,    8 


rounded  cups  are  a  pound.    A  pound  is  a  little  less 
than  a  level  quart. 

Oatmeal — A  level  cup  is  6  ounces.  All  that  can 
be  dipped  up  with  a  cup  weighs  7  ounces — nearly  ^ 
pound.     3  cups  water  cooks  1  cup  oatmeal. 

Rice — A  level  cup  weighs  7  ounces.  All  that 
can  be  heaped  iu  a  cup  weighs  9  ounces.  3  cups 
water  cooks  1  cup  rice. 

Corn  starch — A  level  cup  3f  cooking  starch  is  6 
ounces.  All  that  can  be  heaped  in  a  cup  weighs  7 
ounces.    4  cups  milk  cooks  1  cup  starch. 

Farina — Same  as  starch. 

Tapioca — Same  as  rice. 

Light  bread  dough — A  rounded  cup  of  dough 
weighs  from  6  to  8  ounces  according  to  lightness — 
3  cups  are  a  pound.     1  pound  makes  10  or  12  rolls- 

Raisins — A  heaped  cup  without  stems  is  8  ounces. 
A  pound  without  stems  about  fills  a  quart. 

Currants — A  heaped  cup  dry   weighs  6    ounces 

Ground  coffee — A  heaping  cup  is  4  ounces — it 
makes  2  quarts  of  coffee. 

Tea — A  heaping  cup  is  2  ounces — it  makes  4 
quarts  of  tea. 

Oysters — A  cup  holds  a  dozen  selects  or  2  dozen 
small. 

A  basting-spoon — Six  basting-spoons  of  liquid 
fill  a  cup.  It  holds  about  1^  ounces  of  melted  but- 
ter or  lard,  same  as  size  of  an  egg,  and  2  ounces  of 
thick  molassess. 

A  TABLE-SPOON — 14  tiffics  quitc  full  is  a  cup  or  J 
pint.  2  tablespoons  butter  is  1  ounce,  melted.  A 
heaping  tablespoon  of  sugar  is  1  ounce,  6  or  7  fill  a 
cup.  A  heaping  tablespoon  of  starch  is  1  ounce,  4 
will  fill  a  cup — starch  can  be  heaped  so  much  high- 
er than  sugar.  A  moderately  heaped  tablespoon  of 
flour  is  1  ounce,  3  will  fill  a  cup  if  fully  heaped. 

A  TEA-SPOON — Is  ^  a  tablespoon.  It  is  near 
enough  in  most  cases  to  call  a  teaspoonful  ^  ounce 
of  dry  articles  rounded  up,  not  including  ground 
coffee  or  tea. 

Apples — 4  average  a  pound — they  lose  a  third 
by  paring. 

Butter  -Size  of  an  egg  is  anything  from  1  to  2 
ounces. 

There  are  16  cups  in  a  gallon. 

A  common  wooden  pail  holds  2J  gallons  or  10 
quarts  or  40  cups. 


Bisque  Ice  Creams — Sometimes  called  biscuit  ices 
in  bills  of  fare  are  those  which  have  a  paste  o* 
fruit  or  nuts  mixed  wiih  the  cream.  Bisque  of 
pineapple  i^  one  of  the  favorite  varieties,  the 
ilirections  for  making  it  are  at  Nos.  107  and  93- 
Another  example  U  the  bisque  of  nuts  of  any 
J:ind  at  No.   95,  and  preserved  or  candied  ginger 


makes  another.  There  should  be  bils  of  the 
minced  fruit  found  in  the  ice  to  show  what  it  is, 
and  that  it  is  not  mere'y  flavored. 

Italian  bisque  has  lady  fingers  crumbled  and 
moistened  in  wine,  mixed  in  ice  cream  the  same 
way.  Nesselrode  Ice  Pudding  and  Diplomatic  Ice 
Pudding  will  be  found  at  Nos.  689  and  690. 


NOTES  TO  THE  FOURTH  EDITION, 


Tortillas. — It  would  be  most  gratifying  to  me 
if  these  books  should  grow  to  be  so  comprehen- 
sivelj  American  as  to  include  the  best  of  the 
cookerj  of  all  the  various  peoples  on  the  conti- 
nent. To  learn  all  that  is  charcteristic  in  the 
cookery  of  Mexico  without  departing  from  my 
rule  of  never  putting  anything  into  a  book  that  I 
had  not  previously  performed  myself  by  the 
measures  and  directions  given  I  should  have  to 
go  through  the  experience  of  a  correspondent,  a 
former  Chicago  chef,  and  visit  the  principal  cities 
of  that  country.     He  says : 

"  In  looking  over  your  American  Pastry 
Cook  I  particularly  noticed  No.  626  (Tortillas) 
which  I  find  is  a  mistake.  I  have  spent  the  past 
two  years  in  Old  Mexico,  most  of  the  time  as 
proprietor  of  the  Eating  House  at  San  Juan  del 
Rio,  about  125  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico, 
and  have  seen  Tortillas  made  in  all  the  principal 
cities  in  Mexico  and  at  no  place  do  they  use  corn 
meal  or  boiling  water,  as  there  is  not,  nor  never 
has  been,  such  a  thing  as  corn  meal  in  Mexico, 
only  such  as  came  from  the  United  States  to 
Americans  located  there.  The  way  they  do  make 
Tortillas  is  as  follows :  Corn  is  soaked  in  water 
24  hours,  then  it  is  laid  on  a  rock  and  rubbed 
with  another  rock  shaped  something  like  a  rolling 
pin  till  it  forms  a  paste,  then  it  is  made  into  flat 
cakes  like  a  hotel  pancake,  only  thin  as  a  wafer, 
which  are  made  by  being  patted  between  the 
hands  to  the  proper  size,  then  are  baked  on  hot 
coals.  As  a  proof  of  the  above  recipe  I  refer  you 
to  any  one  in  Mexico." 

My  friend  "  Al "  Rutherford  is  right,  of  course. 
Still  my  Mexican  said  just  what  is  printed  about 
him.  Knowing  that  a  tortilla  is  a  corn  cake,  he 
was  content  to  call  a  corn  cake  a  tortilla  without 
caring  much  about  the  different  method  of  mak- 
ing. Here  is  a  still  more  particular  description 
written  by  Fannie  Brigham  Ward  to  the  Spring- 
field Republican  : 

"  A  Mexican  kitchen  is  a  study,  and  to  do  it 
and  all  its  queer  utensils  justice  would  require  a 
column's  space.  There  are  no  cooking  stoves  in 
Mexico,  or  even  anything  like  the  fire-places  of 
our  grandmothers'  days.  One  side  of  the  room 
was  occupied  by  a  sort  of  shelf,  built  into  the 
wall,  about  breast  high,  in  the  center  of  which  a 
small  wood  fire,  i?  kept  burning. 

"  There  is  no  wood  here  which  a  New  England 
housewife  would  consider  fit  to  burn — only  the 


gnarled  and  twisted  branches  of  mountain  trees, 
and  around  a  little  heap  of  these  the  earthen 
cooking  pots  are  ranged.  If  the  family  is  small, 
sometimes  this  smoky  process  is  improved  upon 
by  building  a  charcoal  fire  in  a  large  earthen  pot 
and  setting  the  smaller  cooking  vessels  within  it. 
In  many  houses  a  mud  oven  is  built  at  one  end  of 
this  shelf,  or  somewhere  out  of  doors.  To  heat 
the  oven  a  fire  must  be  built  inside  of  it,  and  the 
entrance  closed  with  a  hot  stone.  However,  as 
baked  food — '  pies  an'  things,'  according  to  the 
Englishman's  advertisement — enter  not  into  the 
household  economy,  an  oven  is  altogether  a  super- 
fluous luxury. 

"  In  the  center  of  the  kitchen  stands  its  most  im- 
portant factor,  the  metate,  for  tortilla-making.  It 
is  a  hollowed  stone,  the  size  of  an  ordinary  bread 
bowl,  having  two  stone  legs,  about  six  inches 
high,  at  one  end,  which  inclines  it  at  an  angle  of 
45  degrees.  The  tortilla-maker  kneels  on  the  dirt 
floor  at  the  elevated  end  of  the  metate,  and,  the 
corn  having  been  previously  boiled  in  weak  lye, 
and  still  quite  wet,  she  crushes  it  into  paste  with 
a  stone  rolling-pin,  the  mixture  gradually  sliding 
down  the  inclined  plane  into  a  dish  placed  to  re- 
ceive it.  When  a  quantity  has  been  thus  crushed, 
it  is  rolled  into  balls  and  left  until  required.  It  is 
astonishing  what  an  amount  of  corn  a  family  of 
srdinary  size  will  consume  in  a  day,  in  the  form 
of  tortillas,  the  Mexican  '  staff  of  life.' 

"  When  a  meal  is  on  the  tapis,  the  last  act  in  the 
drama — the  tragedy,  we  feel  inclined  to  say, 
when  suffering  the  after  pangs  of  indigestion — is 
to  heat  the  griddle,  or  more  commonly  a  smooth 
flat  stone.  Then  the  cook  takes  a  very  small 
lump  at  once  of  the  prepared  corn  paste  and 
shapes  it  into  thin  round  cakes,  with  a  little  water 
and  much  loud  spatting  of  the  hands,  with  a 
sound  exactly  like  spanking  babies.  The  cakes 
are  then  baked  brown  in  a  jiffy,  and,  as  a  substi- 
tute for  bread,  one  might  go  further  and  fare  a 
great  deal  worse  than  subsist  on  tortillas. 

"  Whatever  else  American  housekeepers  may 
find  worthy  of  imitation  in  Mexican  methods,  I 
am  sure  that  dish- washing,  as  that  disagreeable 
duty  is  practiced  here,  will  not  be  one  of  them. 
The  Mexican  dish-washer  does  not  bother  with  a 
table  and  thereby  saves  her  arms  from  scrubbing 
and  her  legs  from  standing — but  seats  herself 
serenely  on  the  floor  beside  a  pail  of  hot  or  cold 
water.    She  has  no  soap,  but  a  little  sliced  amole 


THE    AMERICAN    PASTRY    COOK. 


root  makes  a  strong  •■  and  cleaner  suds,  and  in 
lieu  of  a  dishcloth  she  ases  a  tiny  broom-brush 
like  our  smallest  whisk  brushes. 

"The  only  disagreeable  suggestion  about  it  is 
that  these  dish  brooms  are  exactly  like  those  used 
to  brush  hair — from  the  'head  of  the  family' 
down  to  that  of  the  humblest  criado  (there  are 
few  combs  used  in  Mexico) — and  the  fear  will  in- 
trude that  those  brooms  may  sometimes  get 
'mixed,'  like  Buttercup's  babies!  The  dishes 
are  never  viiped,  but  are  turned  up  to  dry,  some- 
times in  a  tray  or  on  an  adobe  shelf,  but  generally 
on  the  hard  dirt  floor  leaned  against  the  wall. 
Strange  to  say  they  always  come  to  the  table  clean 
and  shining.  The  brass  spoons  and  steel-bladed 
knives  are  kept  bright  enough  to  see  your  face 
in,  though  no  bath-bricks  or  patent  soaps  are  em- 
ployed in  their  polishing — nothing  but  pure  un- 
adulterated  dirt.  The  servant,  whose  duty  it  is> 
takes  them  out  of  doors,  kneels  upon  the  ground, 
dips  up  a  little  fresh  earth,  and,  holding  the  knife 
or  spoon  firmly  on  a  stone,  polishes  at  her  leisure. 
Despite  dirt  floors  and  the  absence  of  all  those 
conveniences  which  we  consider  indispensable,  I 
have  never  yet  seen  an  untidy  kitchen  in  Mexico. 
Everything  is  kept  as  bright  and  fresh  as  hands 
and  amole  can  make  it,  even  to  the  cooking  pot- 
tery, which  is  of  necessity  smoked  black  when- 
ever used.  If  we  could  combine  their  innate 
neatness  with  our  improved  methods  the  result 
would  be  that  cleanliness  which  we  are  told  is 
*  akin  to  godliness.'  " 


that  the  foreigners  would  not  recognize  it.  The 
real  Turkish  sherbet  is  nothing  but  fruit  juice 
and  water,  only  mixed  with  sugar  when  the  acid- 
ity af  the  fruit  makes  it  requisite.  Turkish  lemon 
sherbet  is  simply  lemonade,  and  all  other  fruits 
are  used  in  the  same  way.  What  we  call  water- 
ices  are  the  real  sherbets  frozen ;  both  names  are 
proper  for  them  and  there  is  no  room  for  a  dis- 
pute. On  the  other  hand  the  French  apply  the 
name  sorbet  to  sherbets  which  have  liquors  added 
to  them;  sorbet  an  kirsh  is  kirschwasser  punch 
frozen  and  so  on  through  the  list  of  punches.  It 
is  easy  therefore  to  find  authority  for  almost  any- 
thing in  this  line  of  goods  with  changeable  names> 
for  there  is  no  ultimate  authority  at  present  to 
refer  to.  The  popular  understanding  of  the 
meaning  of  a  term  establishes  it  in  each  different 
country. 


A  CORRESPONDENT  having  experience  of  life 
in  Mexican  hotels  says  the  first  thing  to  be  done 
while  there,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  coun- 
try, is  to  "  take  "  coffee — and  if  by  any  series  of 
howls  and  poundings  you  can  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  a  servant,  there  being  no  bells,  the  uni- 
versal light  morning  repast,  called  desagmio^  will 
be  served  in  your  room  without  extra  charge. 
Nothing  more  substantial  can  be  had  "  for  love 
or  money"  before  noon.  It  consists  of  a  small 
loaf  of  Mexican  bread  (resembling  a  cannon  ball), 
minus  butter,  accompanied  by  only  a  small  cup 
of  coffee  or  chocolate.  Should  you  be  so  un- 
reasonable as  to  require  a  couple  of  eggs,  they 
may  be  obtained  for  a  small  consideration  from 
the  astonished  host,  who  marvels  within  himself 
at  the  greediness  of  "  Los  Americanos." 


Sherbets. — In  regard  to  disputes  which  spring 
up  touching  the  propriety  of  the  names  of  certain 
compounds  it  is  necessary  to  take  into  considera- 
tion that  the  English,  French,  and  Americans, 
too,  have  in  many  cases  taken  up  a  foreign  name 
and  applied  to  something  slightly  like  the  foreign 
original,  but  so  changed  to  suit  their  own  fancies 


Ice  Cups  and  Compound  Ices. — The  many 
friends  who  have  assured  me  that  they  found  this 
book  a  perfect  mine  of  good  things  will  not  now, 
I  am  sure,  suspect  me  of  undue  egotism,  when  I 
assert  that  a  number  of  the  compound  ices  have 
never  been  surpassed  in  points  of  luxury  or  orna- 
ment, and,  if  used  in  connection  with  the  ice  cups 
No.  1 1 8,  they  afford  specialties  for  any  occasion 
of  which  any  one  may  be  proud.  These  ice  cups 
have  been  adopted  by  some  experts  in  London, 
as  a  new  thing  and  a  few  bills  of  fare  of  fine  hotels 
in  this  country  have  "  ice  cups  "  called  by  the 
name  of  the  hotel.  I  wish  all  my  readers  to  get 
the  full  benefit  of  all  the  recipes  that  have  been 
perfected  for  them  with  an  amount  of  experi- 
mental labor  that  might  seem  to  them  incredible 
if  told. 


Cooking  in  the  Mountains.— When  I  first 
went  to  work  in  a  very  elevated  town  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  at  over  10,000  feet  above  sea 
level,  I  shared  in  the  common  surprise  and  per- 
plexity of  all  novices  in  that  region  of  finding  that 
many  old  recipes  wouldn't  work  and  times  and  du- 
rations of  cooking  processes  were  somehow  disar- 
ranged. Without  wishing  to  encourage  the  telling 
of  marvelous  stories  about  small  variations,  it  has 
to  be  conceded  that  it  is  more  difficult  to  cook  vege- 
tables well  done  and  to  boil  beef  tender  there 
than  at  the  common  levels  and  the  most  difficulty 
was  found  in  making  good  cake.  All  the  cus- 
tomary cake  mixtures  were  too  rich,  they  were 
all  too  light  and  after  rising  too  much  in  the  oven 
the  cakes  invariably  went  down  again,  dark  and 
sticky,  some  of  the  cakes  directed  to  be  made 
with  ammonia  or  baking  powder  or  with  whipped 
whites  of  eggs  to  make  them  light,  would  rise 
and  run  over,  but  if  those  raising  materials  were 
left  out  the  cakes  came  out  just  right  and  light 


THE    AMERICAN    PASTRY    COOK. 


enough.  Still  that  did  not  meet  the  difficulty  in 
many  cases.  People  to  w  horn  I  tell  it,  but  who 
have  never  experimented  for  themselves,  do  not 
want  to  believe  that  it  was  the  sugar  that  needed 
to  be  changed  in  proportions — they  will  stiffen 
the  cake  with  more  flour  or  reduce  the  butter  or 
eggs.  But  after  testing  it  thoroughly  I  found  that 
by  leaving  out  a  quarter  of  the  sugar,  good  cake 
could  be  made  at  the  highest  point  inhabited  by 
man.  The  cakes  were  not  as  sweet  and  rich,  of 
course,  as  if  made  by  the  full  pound  recipes,  but 
they  could  be  relied  upon  to  be  good  in  all  other 
respects.  Most  of  the  cake  recipes  in  this  book 
are  constructed  on  the  knowledge  that  sugar  in 
excess  causes  the  most  failures  in  cake  baking 
and  fourteen  ounces  are  named  instead  of  a  pound. 
But  at  the  level  of  the  sea  the  full  pound  can  be 
used,  if  wished.  It  is  useful  to  know  which  of 
the  ingredients  causes  the  trouble  when  there 
*v  any. 

Gauffres,  Waffles  and  Wafer  Caisses. — In 
reply  to  requests  for  further  information  about 
the  copper  patty  case  frier  shown  on  page  59:  It 
should  be  bent  over  so  as  to  hang  on  the  edge  of 
the  saucepan  of  lard  and  rest  there  without  hold- 
ing. The  copper  head  need  not  be  solid,  but  is 
better  if  hollow.  At  the  New  Orleans  Exposi- 
tion some  waffle  bakers  had  a  booth  where  they 
fried  a  crisp  sort  of  waffle  or  wafer,  as  is  described 
on  page  59  for  cases,  having  their  waffle  irons  or 
coppers  as  large  around  as  a  saucer,  shaped  indeed 
like  a  round  border  mould  such  as  is  shown  on 
page  76,  and  having  long  handles  bent  over  to 
rest  on  the  edge  of  the  frying  kettle.  They  dipped 
the  irons  in  cake  batter,  let  them  fry  in  hot  fat 
and  took  off  the  wafer  when  done  and  dusted  it 
with  powdered  sugar.  The  price  they  put  upon 
their  waffle  irons  was  $15  per  pair,  but  offered  to 
sell  to  hotels  at  $10.  It  is  not  known  how  low 
they  would  really  have  sold  them,  if  anybody 
had  really  wanted  to  buy.  The  cook  who  cannot 
obtain  these  utensils  can  get  along  very  well  for 
small  caisses  by  merely  dipping  common  tin  patty 
pans  of  any  shape  in  batter — the  outsides  only — 
dropping  them  in  a  kettle  of  hot  lard  and  letting 
fry  till  light  brown  and  crisp.  Take  off  the  shell 
of  batter  and  dip  the  patty  pans  again. 


New  Pudding  Material. — Cerealine  is  a  new 
starchy  substance  made  of  Indian  corn.  A  strong 
effort  has  been  made  to  introduce  it  to  general 
use,  and  much  money  spent  in  advertising,  but 
with  doubtful  success.  The  article  is  good,  but 
so  much  like  corn  starch  and  so  little  better  than 
any  of  the  other  pudding  materials  that  nobody 
feels  the  need  of  it.  It  is,  in  the  packages,  pre- 
cisely like  the  white  mealy  part  of  popped  corn. 
It  cooks  quickly  like  starch,  and  can  be  used  in 
the  same  way  as  starch,  farina  and  corn  meal. 
Manioca  is  another  article,  not  new,  yet  but  little 
known,  which  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  pud- 
ding materials.  It  is  a  fine  tapioca,  and  not  fine 
rice,  and  makes  the  most  delicate  of  puddings 
used  in  the  same  manner  as  sago  and  pearl  ta- 
pioca. 

A  FEW  corrections  and  substiirutions  of  new 
or  improved  recipes  for  old  ones  have  been  made 
for  this  edition.  I  have  been  careful,  however,  not 
to  change  or  disturb  any  of  the  special  features  of 
the  book,  which  have  been  the  means  of  bringing 
me  so  many  kind  and  enthusiastic  letters. 


An  Invitation. — All  cooks,  pastry  cooks,  con- 
fectioners and  bakers  who  execute  ornamental 
pieces,  which  they  would  like  to  preserve  in  a 
picture,  are  respectfully  invited  to  send  photo- 
graphs of  them  to  me  to  be  engraved  and  inserted 
in  the  next  edition  of  whichever  of  these  books 
shall  be  reissued  first  thereafter.  My  latest  pub- 
lished book,  "  Cooking  for  Profit,"  contains  a  de- 
partment for  artistic  cookery  in  which  are  pictures 
of  two  prize  pieces,  one  of  which  took  the  first  prize 
at  the  French  Cooks'  Exhibition  in  Paris,  the  other 
won  a  gold  medal  in  London.  It  seems  unfor- 
tunate that  of  all  the  fine  pieces  exhibited  by  the 
cooks  at  their  annual  banquets  in  New  York  and 
other  cities,  and  of  all  the  elaborate  work  done 
for  public  and  private  parties  so  little  is  ever  seen 
by  those  outside  who  could  best  appreciate  its  ar- 
tistic merits.  It  is  earnestly  desired  that  a  collec- 
tion of  pictures  of  such  work  may  be  made,  and 
as  new  issues  of  these  books  are  made  at  least 
once  a  year,  it  affords  an  opportunity  to  the  artists 
to  place  their  work  in  a  permanent  form  to  be  a 
source  of  interest  to  many  readers  and  of  pride 
to  themselves.  J,  W. 


The  Scotch  Haggis. — We  are  Indebted  to  Mrs. 
Black,  of  the  Glasgow  School  of  Cookery,  for  the 
following,  which  may  be  considered  an  authentic 
recipe  for  the  famous  Caledonian  dish : 

One  sheep's  pluck,  a  sheep's  stomach,  ^  lb. 
suet,  I  onion,  yi  lb.  oatmeal,  pepper  and  salt. 
Procure  a  sheeps  pluck  and  stomach-bag ;  wash 
the  pluck  well,  and  put  it  on  in  a  pot  to  boil, 
allowing  the  windpipe  to  hang  out  of  the  pot  so 


that  any  impurities  will  come  out  by  it,  boil 
gently  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Get 
the  stomach  bag  nicely  cleaned  by  the  butcher ; 
wash  It  thoroughly  in  cold  water  and  bring  it  to 
the  boil,  which  will  cause  the  bag  to  contract. 
Take  it  out  of  the  pot  immediately,  wash  and 
scrape  it  well,  and  lay  it  in  the  salt  and  water  un- 
til needed.  Mince  the  best  part  of  the  lungs  and 
the  heart,  leaving  o\|t  all  gristly  parts ;  grate  the 


lO 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  pOOK. 


best  parts  of  the  liver,  and  put  all  in  a  large  basin. 
Toast  well  the  oatmeal,  and  add  It  to  the  contents 
of  the  basin.  Chop  the  suet  very  finely,  add  a 
middling-sized  onion  very  finely  chopped  up,  two 
teaspoonsful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a 
breakfast  cup  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  pluck 
was  boiled,  to  moisten,  and  mix  the  whole.  Now 
take  up  the  stomach-bag,  keep  the  fat  or  smooth 
side  inside,  and  fill  it  up,  but  not  quite  full ;  sew 
up  the  opening,  and  put  it  in  boiling  water  to  boil 
gently  for  three  hours.  Prick  the  haggis  several 
times  with  a  darning-needle  to  prevent  it  from 
sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 


Wanted  a  Substitute.— A  man  in  B— ,  Ills., 
said  recently  that  he  would  pay  me  a  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars  if  I  could  show  him  how  to 
make  ice  cream  without  using  cream  that 
would  be  as  good  as  real  cream  and  that  would 
beat  up  as  well.  He  did  not  make  the  offer  to 
me  direct,  but  a  young  man  from  Iowa,  a 
strong  partizan  of  my  books,  who  told  him  that 
he  could  get  the  information  in  the  American 
Pastry  Cook  at  a  much  lower  price.  The  man 
of  B —  did.  not  want  it  that  way,  however,  but 
wanted  to  pay  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  for 
some  reason  or  other,  and  my  young  man  ought 
to  have  been  bolder,  stayed  with  him,  shown 
him  how  and  collected  the  money  on  the  spot, 
but  he  hesitated  and  referred  the  matter  to  me. 
Undoubtedly,  the  B —  man  is  quite  right.  He  is 
in  the  ice  cream  business,  and  the  knowledge 
he  seeks  will  be  worth  a  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars,  and  he  ought  to  pay  it,  and  if  he  is  a 
man  of  his  word,  after  he  has  read  this  article 
and  tried  my  directions,  he  may  please  send 
his  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  right  straight  to 
the  office,  where  I  will  duly  acknowledge  the 
receipt  with  the  customary  thanks  and  a  hope 
to  receive  further  favors. 

It  will  be  supposed  that  a  man,  who  is  anx- 
ious to  pay  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  for  a 
substitute  for  cream,  has  no  motive  but  to  use 
a  cheap  imitation  instead  of  the  dearer  genuine 
article,  but  as  he  is  to  pay  me  such  a  respect- 
able fee  he  shall  be  defended  against  such  an 
imputation.  He  cannot  get  enough  real  cream 
for  the  requirements  of  his  business;  what  he 
does  get,  is  not  uniformly  good;  some  of  it  is 
just  on  the  point  of  turning  sour  when  it  comes ; 
some,  having  been  kept  too  long,  has  a  flavor 
of  mouldiness ;  the  larger  portion  is  so  thin  that 
he  can  hardly  tell  it  from  new  milk.  This  is 
always  the  way  with  the  products  of  nature, 
they  lack  uniformity,  they  are  subject  to  great 
variations  of  quality  and  appearance;  on  the 
other  hand,  the  products  of  art  are  always  un- 


der control  of  the  artist,  who  can  make  them 
always  alike  or  vary  them  at  pleasure.  Cooks 
can  make  artificial  cream,  therefore  they  are 
artists.  The  B —  man  wants  to  be  an  artist,  and 
offers  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  Besides  that, 
to  freeze  real  cream  is  the  lazy  man's  way ;  any- 
body can  pour  pure  eream  cold  into  the  freezer 
(if  they  can  only  get  the  cream)  with  the  requi- 
site amount  of  sugar  and  flavoring,  and  freeze 
it  with  such  ease  as  to  hardly  miss  the  time ; 
but  to  make  artificial  cream  requires  one  to  be 
industrious,  and  industry  is  always  praise- 
worthy ;  the  B —  man  wants  to  know  the  in- 
dustrious way,  and  says  he  will  pay  a  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars,  here  it  is: 

To  make  4  gallons  of  artificial  cream,  which 
will  be  6  gallons  of  ice  cream  after  freezing, 
take 

4  gallons  of  new  milk. 

7  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 

^  pound  of  corn  starch. 

24  yolks  of  eggs. 

Set  half  the  milk  over  the  fire  to  boil  with  all 
the  sugar  in  it.  Mix  the  starch  in  a  pan  with  a 
quart  of  the  remaining  cold  milk,  then  drop  in 
the  raw  yolks  and  beat  to  mix.  When  the  milk 
on  the  fire  boils,  pour  about  a  quart  of  it  into 
the  starch  and  egg  mixture,  then  turn  these 
into  the  boiling  milk  and  at  once  remove  the 
kettle  from  the  fire,  for  the  heat  is  sufficient  to 
cook  the  starch  and  eggs.  Add  the  cold  milk 
and  strain  into  the  freezer. 

It  is  required  that  our  artificial  cream  shall 
beat  up  as  well  as  real  cream,  that  is,  become 
light  and  foamy,  increase  in  volume  and  fill  the 
freezer.  This  it  will  do  perfectly,  when  only 
lightly  cooked,  as  above  directed.  The  boiling 
milk  cooks  the  starch  and  half  cooks  the  yolks 
so  that  they  beat  up  by  the  motion  of  the 
freezer  as  light  as  sponge  cake.  But  to  beat  up 
this  or  any  other  cream  requires  rapid  motion. 
It  is  most  perfect  where  the  freezer  is  run  by 
steam  power,  otherwise  the  old  fashioned 
paddle  should  be  used  to  finish,  and  when  the 
artificial  cream  is  so  beaten  up  light,  it  cannot 
be  known  from  real  cream,  that  is  from  goou 
fresh  cream  that  is  neither  sour  or  mouldy,  and 
if  the  two  are  tried  together  it  will  generally 
receive  the  preference  by  the  taste  alone.  If 
that  is  not  enough,  and  something  that  will 
beat  up  better  than  cream  be  wanted,  then  take 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beat  them  up  stiff  when 
the  cream  is  nearly  frozen  and  mix  them  in, 
and  continue  beating  and  freezing  and  the 
cream  will  raise  the  lid  presently  and  foam  all 
over.    Please  remit. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


11 


To  be  Tried. — It  has  been  imparted  to  me  as 
a  secret  worth  knowing  that  a  peculiarly  deli- 
cious ice  cream  can  be  made  of  new  milk  which 
has  rennet  mixed  with  it,  as  if  it  were  to  be 
made  into  cheese,  but  it  is  not  to  be  allowed  to 
become  thoroughly  curdled.  Somebody  want- 
ing a  specialty  in  ice  cream  should  try  it. 
Something  about  milk  and  rennet  can  be  found 
in  this  book,  in  connection  with  English  cheese 
cakes  and  cream  curd  puddings. 


About  Prepared  Almond  Paste.— It  is  a  pity 
to  have  to  say  it,  but  the  ready-prepared  almond 
paste,  which  can  be  bought  in  tin  cans  at  about 
25  cents  per  pound  and  makes  such  delicious 
macaroons,  almond  icing  and  almond  ice  cream, 
has  been  unfavorably  mentioned  by  the  chem- 
ists as  being  adulterated  with  prussic  acid, 
which  is  a  poison.  However,  it  is  the  same 
poisonous  prussic  acid  which  gives  the  flavor 
to  such  fruits  as  the  peach,  apricot,  cherry 
and  plum,  its  flavor  is  strongest  in  peach 
kernels,  yet  these  are  never  known  to  injure 
anybody,  the  quantity  of  the  drug  being  too 
small  to  have  any  hurtful  effect;  it  is  prussic 
acid  which  gives  the  bitter  flavor  to  peach 
leaves,  laurel  leaves  and  the  bay  leaves,  which 
are  so  much  used  for  seasoning.  Almond  paste, 
if  used  at  all,  should  be  used  sparingly  and  not 
with  the  excess  which  some  pastry  cooks 
practice  because  they  find  almond  ice  cream  is 
a  great  favorite.  Buyers  of  almond  paste  should 
deal  only  with  reputable  manufacturers.  It  is 
made,  when  genuine,  of  a  mixture  of  sweet  and 
bitter  almonds,  and  is  not  hurtful,  but  cannot 
be  so  low-priced  as  an  imitation  flavored  with 
drugs. 

To  Use  Almond  Paste,  shave  it  off  the  lump 
thinly,  mix  the  shavings  with  granulated  sugar 
and  roll  them  together  on  the  slab  or  table  un- 
til the  paste  is  thoroughly  divided  amongst  the 
sugar,  then  use  the  sugar  to  make  what  is 
wanted. 


Another  Plum  Pudding. — This  receipt  makes 
one  good-sized  pudding:  Take  half  a  pound  of 
breadcrumbs,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound 
of  beef  suet  chopped  very  fine,  two  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds  cut  in  fillets,  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants, one  pound  of  raisins  (stoned),  eight 
ounces  of  lemon-peel  cut  in  thin  stripes,  two 
ounces  of  citron-peel,  four  ounces  of  brown 
raw  sugar,  the  zest  and  juice  of  one  lemon ;  mix 
well  together  with  eight  eggs  and  a  wineglass 
of  brandy;  boil  six  hours,  and  hang  up  in  the 
larder  till  required ;  then  boil  up  again  for  two 
or  three  hours — an  hour  or  two  will  in  no  way 


injure  a  good  plum-pudding — and  always  serve 
very  hot,  with  brandy  or  rum  sauce,  as  the  case 
may  be. 

Bakers'  Cheap  Cup  Cakes.      ' 

4  pounds  butter. 

6  pounds  sugar. 
32  eggs. 

2  quarts  milk. 

2  quarts  water. 

4  ounces  ammonia. 

12  pounds  flour,  or  enough  to  make  dough  a 
little  thinner  than  pound  cake.  Mix  like 
pound  cake,  adding  the  milk  and  water  after 
the  eggs,  and  flour  and  ammonia  or  powder 
last.  Weigh  off  three-ounce  cakes  in  small 
moulds. 


Bakers'  Lady  Fingers. 

I  pound  sugar. 
10  eggs. 

I  pound  flour. 
Beat  the  eggs  (not  separated)  and  the  sugar 
together  for  half  an  hour,  stir  in  the  flour 
lightly.  Directions  for  forming  and  baking 
will  be  found  in  this  book.  This  is  a  harder, 
less  delicate  and  more  serviceable  kind  than 
the  receipts  in  the  following  pages. 


Why  these  "Notes"  are  Written.— As  fast 

as  any  new  thing  comes  up  or  any  old  and  well- 
known  thing  is  newly  found  out  to  be  specially 
good  for  hotel  use,  I  try  to  get  it  into  these 
books  as  new  editions  are  being  printed.  The 
following  letter  will  please  some  readers,  and 
pleases  me  because  it  shows  up  what  I  have  al- 
ways contended  for,  that  it  is  better  to  have  a 
few  special  good  things  that  everybody  likes 
than  to  have  a  hundred  or  thousand  far-away, 
strange  dishes  that  nobody  appreciates;  this 
friend  wanted  the  one  receipt  for  "  Popovers  " 
worse  than  he  wanted  the  whole  book  besides, 
and  expense  is  no  object  when  a  man  wants  a 
specialty.  This  receipt  can  be  found  in  Cooking 
for  Profit  and  in  the  new  edition  of  the  Family 
Cook  Book,  in  one  of  which  the  man  from  Ohio 
had  it  and  now  it  is  in  this  volume,  also. 

,  Kans.,  Dec.  9,  1887. 

Mr.  j.  Whitehead. 
Dear  Sir: — About  one  month  ago  I  sent  for 
one  of  your  Pastry  Cook  books,  to  find  out  of 
what  and  how  to  make  the  so-called  Popovers \ 
they  are  a  batter  with  eggs,  and  bake  in  a  pud- 
ding cup  about  3  inches  high,  when  baked  they 
crack  open  and  are  hollow  in  centre  and  brown 


IS 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


in  color.  Some  Ohio  man  has  made  them  here 
and  are  very  often  called  for.  It  is  not  in  the 
American  Pastry  Book,  or,  if  so,  cannot  find  it. 
If  you  understand  what  I  mean,  please  le-  me 
know  at  once,  and  if  extra  charges  send  it  C.  O. 
D.  by  express. 

Yours  Truly 

C 

N.  B. — Please  attend  at  once. 


Popovers,  or  German  Puffs.— These  puffs 
are  among  the  culinary  curiosities,  as  they  have 
neither  powder  nor  any  other  raising  material 
in  them,  yet  they  rise  high  above  the  tops  of 
the  cups  and  become  quite  hollow — if  not 
spoiled  by  too  much  flour.  Good,  rich  milk 
should  be  used  to  make  them.  The  batter  may 
be  kept  an  hour  or  two  after  mixing  and  little 
batches  of  puffs  baked  fresh  as  wanted,  and  the 
last  will  be  as  good  as  the  first. 
2  eggs. 
I  pint  of  milk — or  2  cups. 

10  ounces  of  flour — or  two  slightly  rounded 
cups. 

Salt,  a  small  teaspoonful. 

Break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  beat  them  light 
and  keep  adding  the  milk  while  beating.  That 
takes  about  five  minutes.  Add  the  salt,  then 
the  flour  all  at  once  and  beat  it  smooth  like 
cream. 

Bake  in  cups  or  deep  mufiin  pans  well  but- 
tered, and  only  half  fill  them  with  the  batter. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  half  an  hour. 


from  a  loaf  and   serve  with  other  kinds  in  the 
cake  baskets. 


Scotch  Slices. — This  favorite  kind  of  cake, 
and  likewise  "  aniseed  slices,"  "  caraway  slices" 
and  other  names  given  by  different  bakers,  are 
all  made  of  Scotch  shortbread^  as  follows : 

1  pound  of  flour. 
^  pound  of  butter. 
^  pound  of  sugar. 

2  eggs. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  stir  the  eggs  in 
the  sugar  until  it  is  partly  dissolved,  mix  all  to- 
gether. It  makes  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out 
and  will  be  a  trifle  lighter  for  not  being  kneaded 
too  much. 

To  make  Scotch  or  caraway  slices,  mix  in  a 
tablesp®onful  or  two  of  caraway  seeds,  for  ani- 
seed slices  use  aniseed,  for  German  slices  use 
coriander  seed.  Roll  the  dough  into  a  long  roll, 
place  on  the  baking  pan  and  flatten  it  down  to 
about  an  inch  thick,  bake  with  a  dredging  of 
sugar  on  top.     When  baked,  cut  off  slices  as 


L.  E.  B.,  Ogdensburg,  writes:  "Can  you  tell 
me  what  use  to  make  of  surplus  yolks  of  eggs? 
You  do  not  mention  but  one  kind  of  cake  made 
with  yolks.  I  am  employed  in  a  fine  bakery  or 
confectionery,  and  some  times  have  several  quarts 
of  yolks  left  over  in  a  week  and  have  to  throw 
them  away  spoiled." 

Ans.  If  you  were  doing  hotel  work  you  would 
find,  on  the  contrary,  the  whites  would  be  left 
over,  there  being  so  many  more  uses  for  the 
yolks.  The  yolk  contains  all  the  richness  of  the 
eggs,  and  gives  color,  flavor  and  smoothness  to 
puddings,  cream  custards  and  sweet  sauces,  better 
alone  than  with  the  whites  mixed  in.  We  use  the 
yolks  also  in  fish  sauces,  salad  dressings,  in  potato 
and  other  croquettes,  also  minced  for  an  orna- 
mental garnish,  mixed  with  flour  for  "noodles" 
and  with  batter  for  another  kind  of  soup,  also 
thicken  soups  with  them,  instead  of  flour  or 
starch,  and  steam  yolks  in  bulk  like  a  cake,  then 
cut  up  and  use  them  as  we  would  chicken  meat 
for  patties.  We  rub  cooked  yolks  through  a  sieve 
making  a  sort  of  vermicelli,  to  serve  with  some 
dish,  and  we  drop  them  whole,  also,  into  soup  to 
substitute  turtle  eggs.  We  cut  them  up  and  mix 
with  chicken  meat,  mushroons  and  sauce  to  fill 
the  shells  of  fried  bread  with,  and  if  there  are  any 
raw  yolks  left  over  after  that,  we  mix  them  in  the 
waffle  batter.  In  a  good  bakery  you  will  find 
nearly  as  many  uses  for  this  the  best  part  of  the 
tgg^  no  matter  how  many  may  be  left  over,  from 
your  using  the  whites  in  meringues,  macaroons, 
icing,  etc.,  for  the  yolks  may  be  mixed  with  water 
and  used  the  same  as  whole  eggs.  Take  a  pint 
measure  about  two-thirds  full  of  yolks,  fill  it  up 
with  water  and  you  have  a  pint  of  eggs,  which  is 
a  pound,  or  equal  to  ten  eggs,  and  the  mixture  of 
yolks  and  water  can  be  used  in  making  almost 
any  sort  of  cakes,  the  only  difference  observable 
being  that  they  are  yellower  and  richer  than  if 
whole  eggs  are  employed.  In  this  way  you  can 
utilize  the  yolks  in  all  sorts  of  small  cakes,  in 
French  coffee  cakes,  buns,  rusks,  tea-cakes,  and 
in  the  sorts  of  sponge  cakes  and  jelly  rolls  which 
are  made  light  with  powder  instead  of  whipped 
whites.  If  you  make  ice  creams,  they  alone  — 
that  is  the  fancy  kinds — should  use  up  all  of  that 
material  you  can  have  to  spare,  and  another  good 
purpose  to  put  surplus  egg-yolks  to  is  to  mix  them 
with  lemon  or  orange  syrup  and  a  little  butter 
and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens 
into  a  jam,  very  good  to  fill  tartlets.  If  after  that 
any  yolks  of  eggs  remain  on  hand,  put  them  in 
the  lemon  and  pumpkin  pies. 


•.'  i\ :'»;  w 


THE 


^HOTEL-BOOK^ 


OF 


Fine  Pastries. 

■NclCES'N- 

PIES,  PATTIES,  CAKES,  CREAMS,  CUSTARDS,  CHARLOTTES,  JELLIES, 
AND  SWEET  ENTREMETS  IN  VARIETY; 

BEING  A  PART  OF  THE 

"Oven  and  Range"  Series 


BY 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


1804. 


The  American   Pastry  (lo(m.Ai'<]:^.^ 


1.    Angel  Food,  or  "WTiite  Sponge  Cake. 

11  whites  of  eggs. 

10  ounces  of  fine  granulated  sugar — all  that  can 
be  shaken  and  heaped  on  a  cup. 

5  ounces  of  flour — a  cup  moderately  heaped. 

2  rounded  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  or  lemon  extract. 

Get  two  pans  together,  put  the  cream  of  tartar 
into  the  flour  and  mix  them  by  sifting  out  of  one 
pan  into  the  other  six  or  seven  times. 

Whip  the  whites  firm  enough  to  bear  up  an  egg, 
put  in  the  sugar,  beat  a  few  seconds,  add  the  flav- 
oring, then  stir  in  the  flour  lightly  without  beat- 
ing. When  the  flour  is  mixed  in  fairly  out  of  sight 
it  is  finished.  As  soon  as  mixed  put  the  cake  in 
the  oven.  It  needs'careful  baking  like  a  meringue 
in  a  slack  oven  and  should  stay  in  from  20  to  30 
minutes.  A  deep  smooth  mold  with  an  unusually 
large  tube  is  the  best,  but  any  other  will  do.  The 
mold  should  not  be  greased,  but  when  the  cake  is 
done  turn  it  upside  down,  the  tube  or  something 
else  holding  it  up  to  let  the  air  in,  and  leave  it  to 
get  cold  before  trying  to  take  it  out.  Then  cover  it 
with  the  plain  sugar  glaze  of  the  next  receipt. 

The  rule  for  angel  food  in  large  quantities  is  a 
pound  of  sugar,  a  pound  of  whites,  half  a  pound  of 
flour  and  an  ounce  of  cream  tartar. 


Angel  food,  as  this  peculiarly  white  and  light 
sponge  cake  is  fancifully  named  has  quite  a  history 
to  be  recorded.  It  originated  in  St.  Louis  a  few  years 
ago  and  is  seen  oftener  in  the  hotel  bills  of  fare  of 
that  city  than  anywhere  else.  8.  Sides,  who  kept 
a  large  cafe  or  restaurant  there  invented  it  and  did 
not  fail  to  make  the  most  of  his  discovery,  and  it 
soon  came  into  such  great  demand  that  not  only 
was  no  fine  party  supper  complete  without  it  but 
it  was  shipped  to  distant  cities,  orders  coming  even 
from  London.  For  some  time  the  method  of  mak- 
ing it  was  kept  a  profound  secret  but  at  length  the 
inventor  yielded  so  far  as  to  sell  the  receipt  for 
twenty-five  dollars,  having  it  understood  that  it 
could  not  be  made  without  a  certain  powder  that 
could  be  obtained  from  him  alone.  It  did  not  take 
long  to  discover  that  the  powder  was  nothing  but 
cream  of  tartar  and  the  receipt  once  communicated 
gradually  became  common  property.  Many  of  the 
caterers  for  parties  make  a  specialty  of  it,  for  it  is 
still  sufficientlv  difficult  to  make  always  alike  to 
prevent  its  becoming  utterly  common,  and  a  con 
fiderable  number  of  the  cakes  are  sent  out    packed 


in  boxes  to  surrounding  towns,  and  occasionally  to 
the  east  and  south.  The  difficulty  such  as  it  is, 
that  makes  the  caterers  say  this  cake  has  been 
more  trouble  to  them  than  anything  else,  and  leads 
to  the  use  of  special  molds  to  bake  it  in  is  the  ten« 
dency  to  fall  in  at  the  centre  after  baking.  The 
mold  not  being  greased  holds  the  cake  up  to  its 
shape  until  cold.  The  lamb's-wool  texture  of  it 
may  be  made  finer  by  stirring  after  the  flour  is  ad- 
ded. The  cake  will  be  better  when  a  day  o^d  than 
when  first  baked,  but  to  keep  the  outside  from  dry- 
ing and  to  make  it  better  eatiog,  as  it  has  no  rich- 
ness  in  its  ingredients,  it  is  always  covered  with  a 
flavored  sugar  glaze  or  icing.  It  may  have  no  di- 
rect connection  with  it,  but  Sides,  who  originated 
angel  food,  afterwards  lost  his  reason  and  was 
taken  to  an  insane  asylum,  his  wife  continuing  the 
business  he  established. 


2.    Pearl  Glaze  for  Angel  Food,  etc. 

1  cupful  of  icing  sugar. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  flavoring  extract. 

Mix  them  together  in  a  bowl.  As  soon  as  the 
sugar  is  fairly  wetted  it  is  ready  but  may  be 
whitened  by  beating  one  minute.  It  dries  pearl 
white;  takes  but  a  few  minutes  to  prepare.  Spread 
it  over  the  bottom  and  sides  of  angel  food.  It  also 
gives  a  rich  transparent  sort  of  eatable  appearance 
to  the  top  of  a  fine  jelly  cake,  and  shows  up  orna- 
ments of  finished  white  icing  finely. 

It  does  nearly  as  well  with  the  sugar  only  slight- 
ly wetted  with  water  instead  of  white  of  egg,  when 
it  is  to  be  spread  on  pastry,  as  the  sugar  dries 
white.  It  can  also  be  colored  pink,  or  with  choc- 
olate, or  made  yellow  by  mixing  with  yolk  of  egg. 


3.    Eight-Egg  Sponge  Cake. 

1  pound  of  fine    granulated    sugar— 2    rounded 
cups. 

8  eggs. 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  water — small  ^  cup. 

12  ounces  of  flour— 3  rounded  cups. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  white  into  a  bowl,  the 
yolks  into  the  mixing  pan.  Put  the  water  and 
sugar  in  with  the  yolks  and  beat  them  ten  minutes, 
until  they  are  a  thick  light  batter.  Have  the  flour 
ready.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  very  firm  froth,  then 
mix  the  flour  with  the  yolk  mixture  and  stir  the 
whites  in  last.  Bake  in  molds  either  large  or  small 
Good  for  large  and  small  sponge  cakes  and  lady 
fingers. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


^;.*         »  *♦'  Wfiite- Jepy  iloll. 

'.  '"IJh^'&itg^lfacM'C^kedb'esnot  answer  to  roll  up, 

but   nearly  the   same  ingredients  put   together  in 

another  way  make  a  fine  roll  and  also  white  cake 

lining  for  charlotte-russe. 

10  ounces  of  granulated  sugar — a  heaping  cupful. 

12  ounces  of  whites  of  eggs — 13  whites. 

6  ounces  of  flour — a  heaping  cupful. 

2  rounded  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tartar. 

Vanilla  or  lemon  extract, 

Put  the  sugar  and  white  of  eggs  into  a  deep  pan, 
pail  or  brass  kettle  and  beat  them  together  with  the 
wire  egg  whisk  for  about  20  mi-nutes.  If  beaten 
rapidly  in  a  cool  place  the  mixture  will  then  be  like 
good  cake  frosting.  Then  add  the  cream  of  tartar 
and  flavoring  and  beat  one  minute  longer,  next,  stir 
in  the  flour  with  a  spoon.  It  should  be  baked  im- 
mediately. Lay  a  sheet  of  blank  paper  on  the 
largest  baking  pan,  spread  the  cake  only  just  thick 
enough  to  hide  the  paper,  bake  about  six  or  eight 
minutes.  Brush  the  paper  over  with  water  to  get  it 
off.  Spread  lemon  or  orange  honey  or  red  jelly  on 
the  cake  and  roll  up. 

S,  Lady  Cake. 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

12  ounces  of  butter. 

12  ounces  of  white  of  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  flavoring  extiacts. 
i  teacup  of  milk. 

The  juice  of  one  small  lemon. 

Use  uncolored  dairy  butter.  Warm  the  sugar  and 
butter  slightly  and  stir  them  till  white  and  creamy. 
Add  the  egg  whites  a  little  at  a  time  and  after  that 
the  flour. 

Don't  beat  the  white  of  eggs  before  mixing,  but 
beat  the  whole  mixture  thoroughly  after  the  flour  is 
in.  Then  mix  in  the  lemon  juice  and  flavoring  and 
last  of  all  the  milk. 


o. 


Delicate  Cake. 


14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 
12  ounces  of  butter, 
12  ounces  of  white  of  eggs. 
8  ounces  of  flour. 
8  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
Juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
2  teaspoonfulls  of  flavoring  extracts. 
^  cup  of  milk. 

1  bastingspoonful  of  brandy. 
Don't  beat  the  whites  to  a  froth,  but  cream  the 
butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  whites  by  por- 
tions, then  the  starch  and  flour,  and  after  them  the 
lemon  juice,  milk,  flavorings  and  brandy.  Beat  all 
together  well. 


7.  Snow  Oake. 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 
12  ounces  of  white  dairy  butter. 
1  pound  of  white  of  eggs — about  18  whites. 
8  ounces  of  fine  flour. 
10  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
Juice  of  one  lemon. 
I  cupful  of  milk. 
Flavoring  extracts. 
Little  brandy. 

Don't  beat  the  whites  to  a  froth.  Cream  the 
butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  whites  a  little  at 
a  time,  then  the  starch  and  flour,  after  that  the 
lemon  juice,  flavorings  and  milk.     Beat  well. 


8. 


Finest  Chocolate  Cake. 


Melt  4  ounces  of  common  chocolate  by  merely 
warming  it  in  a  cup  set  on  the  side  of  the  range. 

Make  the  snow  cake  mixture  preceding,  flavor  it 
strongly  with  vanilla,  and  leave  out  the  brandy. 
Pour  in  the  melted  chocolate  and  beat  it  in  just  be- 
fore the  milk. 


O. 


Finest  Wine  Cake. 


Make  the  snow  cake  mixture  and  leave  out  the 
milk.  Instead  of  it  mix  in  at  the  last  nearly  a  small 
teacupful  of  madeira  wine,  with  enough  either  of 
red  strawberry  syrup  or  of  drops  of  carmine  to  make 
the  cake  couleur  de  rose,  but  only  pale  blush  or 
peach  bloom,  not  any  dull  red  or  purples  for  cake. 
The  lemon  juice  is  very  necessary  here;  it  changes 
red  to  bright  pink. 


lO. 


Marble  Cake. 


Make  either  of  the  white  cake  mixtures,  take  out 
about  half  a  cupful  and  color  it  light  red  with  straw- 
berry or  currant  syrup. 

Butter  a  cake  mould,  flour  it,  and  shake  out  the 
surplus  flour,  leaving  the  mould  thinly  coated. 
Drop  lumps  of  cake  batter  in  the  mould  with  a  tea- 
spoon, paint  them  over  with  a  knife  dipped  in  the 
red  batter,  but  without  flattening  or  smoothing  or 
running  the  lumps  together.  Drop  more  spoonfuls 
of  the  cake  mixture  in  the  hollows  and  paint  them 
over  with  the  knife  blade  dipped  in  red  as  before, 
and  so  fill  the  mould  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top. 
There  will  be  fine  waving  lines  of  pink  through  the 
cake  when  cut. 

Chocolate  and  white  can  be  used  in  the  same  w»y. 
The  snow  cake  mixture  is  apt  to  be  too  soft  to  keep 
form  by  spoonfuls,  unless  quite  cold. 

"  Luck"  is  the  poorest  possible  ingredient  in  cake 
making.  The  same  cause  will  always  produce  the 
same  effect.  The  exact  proportions  that  will  make 
a  splendid  cake  one  time  will  make  the  same  every 
time  if  put  together  the  same  way.  The  questioa  is 
only  to  find  the  right  proportions. 


THE  AlVIERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


11. 


Turkish  Cake 


Fine  chocolate  cake  with  figs,  almonds  and 
raisins.  The  snow  cake  mixture  will  not  bear  up 
the  fruit.  Make  the  lady  cake  mixture,  and  add  to 
it  4  ounces  of  chocolate  melted  by  heat  in  a  cup. 
Then  prepare 

8  ounces  of  chopped  figs. 

8  ounces  of  almonds  blanched  and  split. 

8  ounces  of  seedless  raisins. 

Flavor  the  prepared  cake  batter  with  vanilla  and 
a  little  brandy.     Dust  the  fruit  with  flour  and  stir  it 


What  makes  us  think  the  ladies  cannot  make  deli- 
cate cakes,  for  sure,  just  when  they  want  them  is 
the  exhibition  they  sometimes  make  at  a  church 
fair  where  everybody  contributes  cake  with  their 
names  on.     They  look  awful — like  a  cake  hospital. 


18. 


Almond  Cake. 


Make  the  lady  cake  mixture — the  first  receipt  of 
this  series — and  add  to  it  a  pound  of  almonds 
blanched  (scalded  and  peeled)  and  split.  Also  use 
almond  extract  and  ro«e  extract  to  flavor  with. 
Dust  the  almonds  with  flour.  The  snow  cake  mix- 
ture would  be  too  delicate  to  bear  up  the  almonds. 


13. 


White  Baisin  Cake. 


Like  the  preceding,  with  a  pound  of  sultan* 
seedless  raisins  instead  of  almonds,  and  flavor  with 
lemon  and  extract  of  nutmegs.  This  is  best  baked 
in  shallow  pans  in  sheets;  but  of  that  more  further 
on. 

And  it  is  for  these  church  fairs  or  other  public 
festivals  the  dwellers  in  the  world  of  private  houses 
try  to  succeed  and  show  their  best,  if  ever,  but  they 
seem  to  always  fail. 


14. 


Queen  Cake 


Made  with  the  lady  cake  mixture,  No.  5,  except 
the  milk. 

1  pound  of  the  greenest  colored  candied  citron. 

i  pound  of  almonds,  blanched  and  split. 

i  pound  of  sultana  seedless  raisins. 

I  cup  of  sherry  or  maderia  wine. 

The  citron  to  be  cut  in  fine  shreds  and  floured  to- 
gether with  the  almonds  and  raisins  before  mixing 
in.  This  mixture  also  makes  small  queen  cakes, 
baked  in  little  patty-pans,  and  these  frosted  on  toj^j 
are  among  the  finest  possible. 

It  is  at  these  times  they  make  the  master  of  the 
house  buy  a  cord  of  hickory  wood  and  hire  a  man  to 
saw  it,  because  it  makes  such  a  nice  steady  heat  to 
bake  a  cake  with;  and  they  send  a  boy  on  a  horse 


to  a  friend's  in  the  country  to  get  some  "'*  right 
fresh  eggs,"  because  there  are  none  in  the  whole 
town  good  enough.  Then  they  have  Julia  to  dry 
the  flour,  and  IJetsey  to  wash  and  pound  the  butter, 
and  Susan  and  her  little  sister  to  beat  the  eggs,  and 
it  is  bad  for  the  poor  cat  if  she  gets  in  the  way. 
We  fellows  who  live  in  bakeries  don't  positively 
know  that  these  things  take  place,  but  have  picked 
up  such  impressions  someway.  But  we  do  know 
how  the  cakes  look  when  they  get  to  the  fair. 


15. 


Hickory  Nut  Cake, 


8  ounces  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  whites  of  eggs  (9  whites.) 

^  cupful  of  milk. 

1  rounded  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  c  f  flour. 
12  ounces  of  hickory  nut  kernels. 

Don't  beat  the  whites  to  a  froth.  Warm  the  but- 
ter and  sugar  together  and  rub  them  to  a  cream  the 
usual  way,  then  add  the  eggs,  then  milk,  powder, 
and  the  flour.  When  well  mixed  stir  in  the  hickory 
nuts.  Flavorings  may  be  added  at  option.  If 
brandy  be  used  the  baking  powder  should  be  left 
out. 

1«. 

There  is  one  cake  marked  "presented  by  Mrs.  A.* 
It  rose  one-sided.  The  top  cracked  all  over,  looked 
like  all  splits  and  gullies,  and  in  the  high  side  a 
crater  opened  and  the  lava  kept  rising  and  running 
and  never  would  get  cooked  and  stop,  though  all  the 
rest  of  the  cake  was  done  hard  long  ago,  and  began 
to  smell  unpleasantly.  That  cake  was  poor,  had 
too  little  butter  and  too  much  eggs,  milk  and  flour, 
and  probably  was  not  put  into  bake  for  some  hours 
after  the  batter  was  mixed.  There  is  another 
"presented  by  Miss  B.''  It  rose  and  rose,  flat- 
topped  and  even,  but  never  got  above  the  edge  of 
the  cake  mould.  It  leaked  over  the  top  and  hung 
in  strings,  and  fell  on  the  stove  bottom  and  made  a 
smell,  and  when  it  got  tired  of  that  it  just  sunk 
down  and  down  again.     That  had  too  much  sugar. 


17, 


Dream  Cake. 


In  a  city  that  we  know  of  there  is  an  entire 
side  of  a  building  in  a  fashionable  neighborhood 
painted  in  large  letters  with  the  words  "celebrated 
dream  cake."  Evidently  it  was  the  aim  to  rival 
the  fame  of  "angel  food,"  and  this  is  certainly 
better  eating,  although  scarcely  so  extremely 
W'hite. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar — 2  cups, 
y,  pound  of  butter — 1  cup. 

12  whites  of  eggs — \%,  cup. 
Yz  pint  of  milk — 1  cup. 

2  rounded  teaspoons  baking  powdef 


10 


THE  AMERIOAxN  x-^ASTRY  COOK. 


1  rounded  teaspoon  cream  tartar. 

Vanilla  or  lemon  extract. 

1  pound  good  weight  of  flour — 4  cups. 

Sift  the  flour,  powder  and  cream  tartar  together 
three  or  four  times  over. 

Soften  the  butter  and  stir  it  and  the  sugar  to- 
gether until  white  and  creamy,  gradually  stir  in 
the  milk,  tepid,  and  a  handful  of  flour  to  keep 
them  from  separating.  Whip  the  whites  to  froth, 
and  add  part  whites  and  part  flour  until  all  are  in, 
and  flavoring  extract  at  same  time.  Bake  either 
in  cake  moulds  or  shallow  pans  and  frost  over 
when  done. 


Kossuth  Cakes. 


Make  sponge  drops  large  and  thick,  hollow  out 
the  bottoms,  put  in  whipped  cream  or  pastry 
cream,  place  two  together  and  with  a  fork  dip 
them  in  melted  sweet  chocolate  or  chocolate  icing 
and  set  on  tins  to  dry.  A  specialty  of  Baltimore 
confectioners.     Sell  at  about  a  dollar  a  dozen. 


SO. 


Havana  Cream  Cake. 


18. 


Ordinary  White  vake. 


1  pound  of  sugar. 
8  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 
10  whites  of  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  milk. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder, 
li^  pounds  of  flour. 

Beat  the  sugar,  melted  butter  and  white*  all  to- 
gether a  minute  or  two,  add  the  milk,  powder,  flour 
and  flavor. 

Now,  if  we  had  to  make  cakes  in  some  place 
where  people  took  notice  and  made  remarks  and 
said  we  did  not  know  much  about  making  good 
things  in  hotels  nohow,  and  if  they  couldn't  do 
better  they  would  sell  out,  we  should  want  to  make 
the  snow  cake  as  beautiful  and  white  as  cotton  bat- 
ting, bake  it  thin  in  jelly  cake  pans,  spread  some  of 
the  richest  confections  between  the  cakes,  and  ice 
the  top,  having  the  cake  and  the  icing  so  near  alike 
in  whiteness  as  to  be  hardly  distinguishable  apart. 


19. 


Pistachio  Creazn  Cake. 


8  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts,  blanched  and  chopped. 
8  ounces  of  sugar, 
i  cupful  of  water. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
Whites  of  four  eggs. 

Green  juice  from  pounded  spinach  leaves  for  color- 
ing. 

3  jelly  cake  sheets  of  snow  cake. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  thick  syrup,  throw  in 
the  butter,  then  the  pistachio  nuts,  boil  five 
minutes;  then  stir  in  the  white  of  eggs  and  take  it 
off  when  they  thicken.  Color  it  a  little  deeper  than 
pistachio  green.  Spread  this  when  cold  between 
the  three  sheets  of  cake. 


8  ounces  of  fresh  grated  cocoanut. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
4  large  oranges. 

2  lemons. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

6  yolks  and  2  whole  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  the 
oranges  and  lemons  into  the  sugar  and  bring  it  to  a 
boil,  making  a  flavored  syrup.  Throw  in  the  but- 
ter, then  the  cocoanut,  and  boil  5  minutes.  Stir  in 
the  eggs  and  cook  slowly  till  thick.  Spread  between 
layers  of  snow  cake. 

Then  they  are  strange  the  way  they  exclaim  when 
they  burn  up  a  cake  in  the  stove.  Once  we  heard 
a  lady  sing,  "Gee  woicks  gee  whilikens,  the  dor- 
drotted  thing's  gone  blackernaniggerbaby !"  That 
was  at  the  toll  house  at  Shippingsport  near  Louis- 
ville, as  we  were  going  through  the  locks  twenty- 
seven  years  ago  last  anniversary,  and  anybody  could 
know  it  was  a  cake  burnt  up  by  the  black  smell  that 
came  across  the  canal.  Now  one  of  us  fellows 
would  only  have  remarked  dam  kind  of  quietly  and 
lighted  our  pipe.  In  fact,  you  have  to  bake  these 
white  cake  sheets  with  scarcely  any  color  at  all  to 
look  well  with  colored  creams  between  and  ichig  on 
top. 


SI. 


Glazed  Cakes. 


We  use  the  term  for  cakes  glazed  over  with  boiled 
icings  of  different  colors  to  make  a  distinction  from 
the  usual  iced  or  frosted  cakes  with  raw  sugar 
icing.  All  the  richness  of  cream  candy  bon-bons 
belongs  to  these;  they  are  better  to  cut,  better  to 
look  at  and  better  to  eat  than  the  common,  and 
after  a  very  little  practice  are  quicker  made  and  dry 
immediately. 

22,     Yellow  Glaze  or  Boiled  Icings. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

i  teacupful  of  water. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  extracts. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water,  without  stirring,  for  6 
minutes  or  more,  or  till  a  drop  of  the  syrup  in  coid 
water  sets  so  that  it  can  hardly  be  flattened  between 
the  finger  and  thumb.  A  deep  bowl-shaped  sauce- 
pan holding  one  quart  should  be  used.  Have  the 
yolks  slightly  beaten  ready  in  a  bowl.  Pour  the 
bubbling  syrup  to  the  yolks  quickly  while  you 
rapidly  beat  them  with  an  egg  beater.  Return  to 
the  fire  and  keep  stirring  while  it  cooks  a  minute  or 
two.  It  will  then  do  to  pour  on  sheets  of  cake  and 
jf  the  syrup  was  at  the  right  point  it  will  set  hard 
and  dry  as  soon  as  cold. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


11 


But  it  is  better  to  finish  by  beating  the  glaze 
rapidly  while  it  is  cooling,  and  add  the  flavoring 
just  as  it  becomes  too  thick  to  beat. 

The  above  is  the  easiest  of  the  kind  to  make,  as  it 
does  not  make  so  much  difference  what  point  the 
syrup  is  boiled  to — it  will  dry  on  the  cakes  anyway. 


23.      White  Glaze  or  Boiled  Icing:. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

^  teacupful  of  water. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  extracts. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  point  thicker  than 
for  the  yellow  glaze,  or  till  the  drop  in  cold  water 
sets  hard  and  brittle.  After  the  first  mixing  of  the 
sugar  and  water  these  syrups  should  never  be 
stirred — makes  them  turn  to  sugar.  Don't  beat  the 
whites  any  more  than  enough  to  mix  them.  Pour 
the  bubbling  syrup  to  the  whites,  beating  all  the 
while.  Set  on  the  fire  again  and  beat  for  a  minute 
or  two  while  it.  cooks.  It  is  extremely  liable  to 
burn  on  the  bottom. 

Then  set  the  saucepan  in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  and 
beat  the  icing  with  a  Dover  egg  beater  till  it  becomes 
thick.  It  will  be  of  a  dazzling  whiteness  at  last. 
Can  be  flavored  to  suit  the  fancy.  If  boiled  to  right 
point  sets  hard  as  soon  as  spread  or  poured  over  the 
cake. 


IS4.       Rose  Glaze  or  Boiled  Icing'. 

Make  the  white  glaze  and  color  and  flavor  to  suit, 
just  as  it  begins  to  be  so  thick  as  to  be  hard  to  beat. 


35.  Chocolate  Glaze  or  Boiled  Icing:. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

.^  teacupful  of  water. 
•    3  ounces  of  grated  chocolate. — the  common  sort. 

4  whole  eggs. 

Vanilla  flavoring  extract. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  in  a  deep  sauce- 
pan for  five  minutes,  add  the  chocolate. 

When  a  drop  in  cold  water  sets  hard  almost  as 
candy  stir  in  the  eggs  rapidly,  beating  all  the  while* 
Let  cook  about  five  minutes  more  with  constant 
stirring.  Flavor  with  vanilla.  Beat  more  or  less 
while  it  is  cooling.  Spread  or  pour  it  over  sheets  of 
cake. 

The  confectioners,  too,  like  us  to  make  these 
glaze  cakes  for  their  windows  and  show  cases;  they 
take  pleasure  when  the  cake  is  as  white  as  the  icing, 
and  red  jelly  between  the  layers,  in  putting  them  in 
the  front  rank.  Having  3  or  4  different  kinds  of 
glaze  and  sheets  of  the  whitest  cakes  only  about  a 
third  of  an  inch  thick  to  cover  with  them  you  can 
cut  them  when  set  in  squares  or  diamonds  and 
triangles,  red,  white,  yellow  and  chocolate,  and  they 


make  a  very  pretty  stack.  Besides,  small  cakes, 
such  as  sponge  drops,  can  be  dipped  in  the  icings 
while  hot  and  another  assortment  made,  just  the 
thing  for  ornamental  baskets  and  pyramids. 


SO.    Chocolate  Glaze  without  Eggs. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

i  teacupful  of  water. 

4  ounces  of  common  chocolate,  grated. 

Poil  all  together  almost  to  candy  point,  flavor 
with  vanilla  when  partly  cooled,  beat  a  short  time, 
spread  over  the  cake. 

Colored  syruj-  of  fruit  juice  and  sugar  boiled 
down  thick  enc  „gh  to  bubble  and  rise  in  the  sauce- 
pan can  be  used  instead  of  icings  to  cover  cake  with 
a  glassy  surface. 


»T. 


Items  about  Puff  Paste. 


When  puff-paste  has  been  rolled  out  and  folded 
up  again  4  times  it  lies  just  like  2  quires  of  tissue 
paper  piled  alternately  a  yellow  sheet  with  a  white 
sheet — a  sheet  of  butter  and  a  sheet  of  paste,  all  of 
the  same  evenness  and  regularity  from  bottom  to  top. 
It  is  hard  to  get  butter  and  dough  to  lie  so  equally, 
but  that  is  what  has  to  be  tried  for,  and  we  have  to 
show  how  to  make  them  come  so.  If  baked  then 
the  sheets  of  paste  or  dough  would  be  as  sharp  as  knife 
blades,  and  might  cut  the  mouth  of  the  rash  person 
who  should  try  to  eat  them,  the  butter  having  all  run 
out  into  the  baking  pan.  One  more  rolling  and 
folding  makes  the  layers  two-thirds  thinner,  and 
eatable,  and  another  rolling  after  that  makes  the 
layers  thin  enotigh  to  be  blown  away  with  the 
breath. 

The  reason  of  these  unfinished  sheets  of  paste  be- 
ing so  sharp  edged  and  continuous,  is,  there  is  no 
shortening  rubbed  into  the  flour  when  fine  puff- 
paste  is  wanted — the  layers  of  dough  are  nothing 
but  flour  and  water.  Rubbing  part  or  all  of  the 
butter  or  lard  into  the  flour  dry  makes  short-paste, 
but  not  the  marvellous,  flaky,  high-flying  puff  paste. 
Those  who  get  their  first  instructions  in  home  places 
never  want  to  believe  that. 

Some  people  say  it  is  a  matter  of  light  touch,  a 
peculiar  temperament,  a  something  inherited  that 
makes  certain  individuals  always  and  easily  suc- 
cesses at  making  puff-paste  and  others  always  fail- 
ures. They  say  women  make  better  paste  than  men. 
There  is  no  grounds  for  such  a  distinction.  The 
probability  is,  it  is  a  matter  of  sense  and  study,  of 
head  work  more  than  hand  work.  A  giddy  person 
does  not  make  fine  paste,  but  is  is  not  their  hand 
that's  giddy,  it's  their  head.  It  is  cause  and  effect 
again,  and  some  cannot  see  their  relation.  Some 
people  cannot  place  rolls  in  straight  rows  in  the  pan, 
nor  lay  strips  on  pies  diamond-wise. 


12 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


It  makes  all  the  difference  when  a  fresh  cub  comes 
in  the  kitchen  to  be  pastry  cook's  boy,  if  he  has 
been  one  of  those  young  ones  that  stand  with  their 
chin  on  the  kitchen  table  seeing  their  mother  make 
pies. 

The  others  are  amusing  green  and  awkward. 
They  will  pour  a  pint  of  water  into  a  big  pan  of  flour 
and  then  go  feeling  around  for  the  lumps  it  makes, 
and  pick  them  out  one  by  one.  They  could  not 
work  the  lump  of  dough  they  get  that  way  without 
a  sledge  hammer,  and  pie  dough  has  to  be  about  as 
soft  as  mush.  The  way  is  to  pour  the  water  in  a 
hole  made  in  the  middle  of  the  flour,  and  gently  stir 
it  round  with  two  fingers  till  it  has  gathered  in  flour 
enough  so  it  can  be  lifted  out  of  the  pan  on  to  the 
table,  there  to  be  worked  smooth  and  fit  to  roll  out. 

The  best  puff-pa^te  is  that  made  in  10,  15  or  20 
minutes,  according  to  the  quantity,  when  one  has  no 
time  to  spare  for  packing  it  between  pans  of  pounded 
ice,  or  for  other  foolishness,  when  the  butter  has 
been  worked  smooth  and  pliable  beforehand,  and 
lies  ready  in  a  pan  of  ice-water — when  the  ice-water 
stands  ready  to  mix  with,  the  flour  is  cold  and  the 
oven  is  hot  and  waiting — then  you  turn  out  paste 
that  puffs  and  rises  high  and  dry  and  wholesome. 
The  reason  is  the  ingredients  don't  have  time  to  get 
warm  and  soggy,  and  there  is  an  immense  amount 
of  labor  and  trouble  saved  over  the  ice  packing  way. 
Still,  of  course,  the  same  method  is  not  practicable 
in  every  place. 

When  the  plain,  soft  flour  and  water  dougn  nas 
been  rolled  out  as  if  for  cutting  biscuits  out  of,  but 
instead  is  covered  all  over  with  the  required  amount 
of  butter  in  lumps,  and  then  the  dough  is  folded 
over  it,  the  ^rsential  thing  and  the  only  difficult  one 
is  to  get  the  dough  and  butter  to  roll  out  again  and 
again  at  even  pace.  Soft  butter  will  give  way  under 
the  rolling-pin  and  leave  its  place,  burst  through,  or 
out  at  the  ends.  It  is  of  no  use  trying  with  really 
soft  butter,  but  when  it  is  of  medium  firmness  the 
dough  may  be  mixed  very  soft  to  match  it,  and  good 
paste  may  be  made.  With  the  flour  and  water  ex- 
tremely cold,  the  butter  often  hardens  in  the  paste 
instead  of  softening — that  is  success,  whether  done 
in  one  or  two  hours  in  an  ice-chest  or  in  ten  minutes 
on  a  cold  table.  There  is  another  difficulty  in  the 
way  of  even  distribution — the  more  the  dou^h  is 
worked  and  rolled  the  tougher  it  beomes  and 
springs  back,  while  the  butter  does  not.  To  over- 
come that,  the  paste  is  allowed  to  rest  awhile  after 
about  three  rollings,  but  it  is  better  in  warm 
weather  to  get  along  without  such  an  interval,  by 
not  kneading  the  dough  at  all,  and  having  it  soft 
enough  at  the  start.  The  experienced  workman 
goes  through  a  certain  routine  every  day  that  meets 
all  exigencies,  and  his  work  is  always  alike,  while 
others  talk  about  the  luck  and  havinr?  *^  light  hand 
for  fine  paste. 


They  make  a  great  fuss — the  people  who  make 
verses  do — about  the  beauties  of  milking  the  cows; 
as  if  there  were  no  flies  and  cows  didn't  kick  !  It  is 
much  more  charming  to  be  working  the  butter.  We 
have  seen  them  at  summer  resort  houses.  They  go 
where  the  spring  water  runs  cold,  and  work  the 
lump  of  butter  in  a  trough  till  it  is  just  perfection 
to  make  pufl"  paste  with — though  no  dairy  maid  ever 
will  let  her  fresh  lump  of  butter  go  for  such  a  pur- 
pose. We  have  to  work  the  butter  as  well  as  the 
time  allowable  in  the  crowded  forenoon  permits  by 
pounding  it  in  a  wooden  bowl  with  a  potato  masher 
Cold  butter  that  is  not  so  broken  and  made  pliable 
is  as  bad  as  warm,  for  it  will  not  be  pressed  out  by 
rolling,  but  cuts  its  way  through  in  lumps  every- 
where. 

We  have  another  newer  and  entirely  different 
way  of  making  fine  leaf  paste,  but  like  this  common 
way  the  best  for  meeting  all  the  varied  requirements 
of  hotel  work,  and  this  is  the  formula. 


38, 


Puflf  Paste. 


1  pint  of  water  (2  coffeecupfuls.) 

Flour — all  the  water  will  take  up. 

Butter — from  \\  to  2  pounds. 

Mix  the  flour  and  water  to  soft  dough.  Roll  it 
out  about  an  inch  thick.  Take  half  the  butter  and 
drop  it  in  lumps  the  size  of  eggs  upon  the  sheet  of 
dough,  the  width  of  two  fingers  between  each  lump. 
Sift  a  little  flour  over,  press  the  butter  into  the 
dough  slightly,  then  fold  the  dough  over  in  three. 
Roll  out  to  the  same  thickness  as  before,  distribute 
the  remaining  half  of  the  butter  over  it,  dredge,  and 
fold  over  in  three  again,  and  count  that  one  fold — 
the  former  folding  with  only  half  the  butter  in  counts 
nothing,  or  "half  a  turn."  Always  keep  the  dough 
rolled  out  to  square  shape  and  turn  the  broad  side 
towards  you  after  folding.  Roll  and  fold  till  you 
have  counted  6  times.  Use  plenty  of  flour  under 
and  over  until  the  last  rolling  wlien  the  surplus 
should  be  swept  off.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 
39.  

After  a  few  trials  neither  butter  nor  flour  need  be 
weighed — the  rule  of  butter  size  of  an  egg  two 
fingers  apart  is  all  that  is  wanted,  and  the  amount 
to  be  made  can  be  governed  by  the  cups  or  dippers 
of  water  used. 


30. 


Lard  for  Puff-Paste. 


Then  there  is  the  question  of  expense.  They  hate 
to  furnish  first-rate  butter  enough  to  make  good 
puff"-ppste;  people  are  fond  of  pies  and  pastries,  and 
it  costs  like  sixty.  There  is  little  use  in  making 
paste  as  rich  as  it  can  be  made  anyway,  except  when 
it  is  for  fancy  articles — the  tall  puff'ed  up  edges  of 
pies  are  oftenest  thrown  away  with  all  their  fine 
butter  in  them — only  because  people  cannot  eat 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


18 


everything,  and  the  middle  of  the  pie  goes  first. 
Butter  that  is  only  just  a  little  off  does  well  enough* 
but  butter  that  is  bad  spoils  the  whole  article,  filling 
and  all,  clear  through.  Good  lard  is  far  better  than 
poor  butter  to  make  good  eatable  white  and  light 
pastry,  and  some  sorts  will  make  just  as  tall  puff- 
paste  as  butter  will.  Oily  and  grainy  lard  will  not ; 
it  has  to  be  the  firm,  tough  tenacious  kind  of  dried 
out  lard.  The  very  best  everyday  kind  of  paste  is 
made  with  half  butter  and  half  good  firm  lard. 
Then  a  little  salt  must  be  strewn  over  the  lumps  of 
laid  after  they  are  spread  on  the  dough.  Butter 
alone  carries  salt  enough. 


31. 


Compressed  Lard. 


The  most  wonderfully  light  and  tall  puff-paste, 
that  beat  butter  pastry  all  hollow,  used  to  be  made 
in  the  times  when  lard  oil  was  used  in  immense 
quantities  before  kerosene  came  in,  of  the  stearine 
lard,  the  residue  left  after  pressing  out  the  oil.  This 
was  as  hard  as  tallow,  but  of  a  different  texture. 
Oil  is  the  greatest  enemy  to  puff-paste,  and  stearine 
contains  none.  Then  we  had  vol-au  vents  that  a 
small  goose  could  be  hid  in,  that  rose  several  inches 
high  of  their  own  lightness. 

It  looks  like  the  sweet  fresh  suet  that  comes  in  so 
plentifully  with  the  fat  loins  of  beef  ought  to  be 
better  far  pastry  than  strong  butter  and  miserable 
oily  lard,  and  so  it  is,  and  comes  next  to  the  stearine 
lard  mentioned  above,  but  can  only  be  used  after 
going  through  a  particular  process.  People  try  to 
use  melted  suet  or  tallow  or  drippings,  and  they 
mince  raw  suet  and  then  pound  it  fine,  but  however 
good  short  paste  these  may  make  they  will  not  pro- 
duce puff-paste.  The  suet  or  tallow  is  always  com- 
posed of  hard  grains  that  cut  through  and  destroy 
the  flakes.  The  proper  process  is  something  of  a 
trade  secret;  a  good  thing  for  those  who  work  for 
themselves  to  save  butter  by. 


33. 


To  Prepare  Suet  for  Making: 
Puff-Paste. 


Cut  the  suet  very  small,  leaving  out  all  dark  meat 
stained  pieces,  and  set  on  the  side  of  the  range  in  a 
boiler  with  plenty  of  hot  water.  The  suet  must  not 
boil  but  steep  in  scalding  water  for  a  few  hours. 
Then  pour  water  and  all  into  a  large  strainer  with  a 
bottom  of  perforated  tin — a  gravy  strainer — and  rub 
the  fat  through  with  a  potato  masher.  Get  a  pan 
of  broken  ice  and  water  and  a  little  salt  in  it,  and 
dip  the  strained  fat  by  ladlefuls  into  it,  stirring  the 
ice  about  at  the  same  time.  The  fat  sets  instantly 
on  falling  into  the  cold  water  in  crumbs  like  meal. 
Gather  it  by  straining,  press  it  together  and  pound  it 
with  a  masher  in  a  bowl  as  you  would  butter.  Salt 
it  for  use. 


Some  years  ago — about  the  close  of  the  war — the 
writer  had  a  friendly  contention  with  a  fine  cook 
who  made  splendid  pastry,  as  to  whether  as  fine  puff 
paste  could  not  be  made  by  the  old-fashioned  way 
just  explained,  as  by  this  following.  It  was  finally 
decided,  after  both  ways  had  been  tested  to  the  ut- 
most, that  there  was  no  difference  in  the  results,  but 
there  are  certain  every-day  work  considerations  in 
favor  of  the  old  way.  The  leaf  paste  is  fine  for 
fancy  tarts.  The  workman  who  would  be  perfect  in 
his  trade  will  practice  both.  It's  bad  to  have  a  fel- 
low come  along  and  beat  you. 


33.,  French  Puff  Paste  or  Feuilletage. 

It  is  requisite  to  have  the  butter  very  firm  and 
free  from  water,  and  those  who  wish  to  have  very 
superior  pastry  will  use  the  very  finest  flour. 

Weigh  your  butter  and  flour  in  equal  proportions, 
cut  the  butter  into  thin  slices,  take  a  little  flour  and 
roll  it  with  a  slice  of  butter  into  flakes,  proceed  thus 
until  all  the  butter  and  flour  are  rolled  together; 
gather  the  flakes  into  a  heap,  and  sprinkle  them 
with  water,  about  a  gill  and  a  half  is  required  for  a 
pound  of  paste.  Make  into  a  smooth  paste  with  the 
hand,  and  then  roll  it  out  to  the  thickness  of  half  an 
inch.  If  a  pound  of  paste,  divide  it  into  four  parts, 
flour  the  board  and  roll  out  each  part  as  thin  as  a 
wafer,  fold  over  four  or  five  times,  and  use  as  re- 
quired.    Bake  as  soon  as  possible. 

Then  try  this,  and  hold  fast  that  which  you  suc- 
ceed with  the  best. 


34. 


Pine  Leaf  Paste.    Ten-Minute 
Paste, 


1  pound  of  cold  butter. 

1  pound  of  cold  flour. 

i  pint  of  ice-water — a  coffecupful. 

Cut  the  butter  into  pieces  size  of  walnuts  and  put 
them  in  a  vessel  containing  broken  ice  and  water 
some  time  before  using,  to  become  very  hard  and 
cold. 

Sift  the  flour  into  a  pan  and  lay  aside  a  handful 
to  dust  with.  Throw  in  the  lumps  of  butter,  mix 
them  with  the  dry  flour,  pour  in  the  ice  water  and 
shake  altogether,  merely  getting  the  flour  dampened 
and  stuck  to  the  lumps  of  butter,  without  kneading 
or  pressing.  Scrape  out  the  contents  of  the  pan  on 
to  the  table  well  floured,  press  it  up  together  and 
then  roll  it  out  with  all  the  force  necessary  to  break 
the  lumps  of  butter,  and  spread  all  out  to  a  thin 
sheet.  Now  loosen  it  from  the  table  with  the 
palette  knife  and  roll  it  up  like  a  roly-poly  pudding, 
and  count  1.  Roll  it  out  again  to  half  an  inch,  fold 
over  in  three  like  ordinary  paste  and  count  2,  and  so 
roll  and  fold  in  three  till  you  have  connted  6  fold- 
ings. But  when  half  done  it  should  have  an  inter- 
val of  5  or  10  minutes  to  stand  in  a  cold  place  and 
lose  its  elasticity. 


14 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


35.     Lemon  Fie.    Best  Hotel  Kind. 

1  pound  of  white  sugar. 
6  lemons. 

1  quart  of  water  or  milk. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

15  yolks  of  eggs  —or  8  whole  eggs. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

Put  the  sugar  in  a  saucepan,  grate  in  the  lemo'^ 
rinds — the  yellow  only — and  squeeze  in  the  juice 
without  the  bitter  seeds.  Pour  in  the  water  and  set 
the  saucepan  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  starch  with  a  little  cold  water,  pour  it  into  the 
saucepan  when  the  syrup  is  boiling  and  immediately 
take  it  off  the  fire.  Then  mix  in  the  yolks  slightly 
beaten — and  the  butter.  They  are  not  to  be  cooked 
in  it.  Bake  in  pie  pans  lined  with  puff-paste  rolled 
out  thin.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  the  pies  when 
done,  or  else  meringue  over  with  the  white  of  eggs 
and  sugar. 

Can  one  advocate  simplicity  and  short  bills  of  fare 
and  a  few  things  well  cooked,  and  then  give  six 
ways  of  making  lemon  pies  and  other  things  similar? 
Yes.  Not  for  one  person  to  make  the  same  thing 
six  ways  so  much  as  for  six  persons  to  pick  out  the 
method  that  suits  their  particular  circumstances  and 
style  of  table  they  cook  for.  And  as  with  pie  mix- 
ture so  with  many  other  things  in  this  book.  For 
the  cheapest  covered  lemon  pie  of  the  great  baker- 
ies see  No.  263. 


36. 


Club  House  Lemon  Pie. 


20  ounces  of  sugar. 

9  large  lemons. 

1 J  pints  of  rich  cream. 
18  yolks  of  eggs. 

6  whites. 

Place  the  sugar  in  a  large  bowl  and  grate  the 
lemon  rinds  into  it,  using  a  tin  grater,  and  then 
squeeze  in  the  juice.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  light 
and  mix  the  cream  with  them;  pour  this  to  the 
lemon  and  sugar,  and  just  before  filling  the  pie 
crusts  with  the  mixture  whip  the  6  whites  to  a  froth 
and  stir  them  in,  No  meringue  needed  for  this  rich 
acid  kind. 


3T, 


Lemon  Pie.    Southern. 


2  pounds  of  sugar. 

1  pint  of  water. 
9  lemons. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
12  eggs. 

Cut  3  of  the  lemons  in  thin  slices  and  keep  them  to 
strew  in  the  pies  when  filled.  Grate  the  others  into 
the  sugar,  squeeze  in  the  juice,  add  water,  make  the 
mixture  hot  to  draw  the  lemon  flavor,  then  mix  in 
the  eggs  well  beaten.  Let  the  lemon  slices  float  in 
the  pies;  bake,  and  sift  powdered  sugar  over  when 
done. 


38.         Lemon  Butter  Pie  or  Tart. 
Kichest. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

5  lemons. 

4  ounces  of'butter. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  whole  egg. 

Make  a  boiling  lemon  syrup  of  the  sugar,  grated 
rinds  and  juice  of  the  lemons — no  water  needed — 
and  throw  in  the  butter.  When  that  is  melted  stir 
in  the  eggs.  Let  simmer  on  the  range  about  10 
minutes. 

Make  the  pies  small,  the  paste  rolled  very  thin, 
and  bake  dry. 


39.     Lemon  Butter.    Baker's  Way. 

Good  for  pies,  jelly  cakes,  tarts,  turnovers,  etc. 

5  or  six  lemons. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  water. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
2  ounces  of  flour. 

6  eggs. 

Set  the  water  on  to  boil  with  the  grated  lemon 
rinds  and  juice  in  it,  and  the  butter.  Mix  flour  and 
sugar  together  dry,  beat  them  in  the  boiling  liquor 
then  add  the  eggs  and  stir  over  the  fire  10  minutes. 


40. 


Lemon  Tarts  without  Fruit. 


6  ounces  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs. 
1  quart  of  water. 
1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  rounded  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  extract. 
5  eggs  or  ten  yolks  for  richer  color. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  cold.  The  imita- 
tion of  lemon  mixture  is  very  close,  and  the  pie  is 
better  than  the  real  that  is  sometimes  made  with 
green  and  bitter  lemons. 


41.    Peach  Flan. 

Said  to  have  been  for  a  few  years  a  specialty,  in 
the  peach  season,  at  a  large  hotel  at  Put-in-Bay, 
since  burned  down. 

Cover  a  shallow  baking-pan  with  bottom  crust  of 
good  pie  paste,  nearly  cover  that  with  quartered 
peaches — in  the  same  style  as  bakers'  apple  cake — 
then  fill  up  with  custard  made  the  same  as  fer  cus- 
tard pie  and  bake  slowly.  Cut  in  squares  when 
done  and  serve  instead  of  pudding.  It  is  necess- 
ary to  place  the  pan  in  the  oven  before  filling  and 
add  the  custard  by  means  of  a  long  handled  dipper. 
When  they  are  soft,  ripe  peaches  they  need  no 
previous  cooking,  but  if  hard  must  be    stewed  firet 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


16 


4S.  Imitation  Lemon  Pie.    Aoid  Pie. 


6  ounces  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs. 
1  quart  of  wafer. 
1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  rounded  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid, 

2  tablespoon sful  of  lemon  extract. 
5  eggs,  or  10  yolks  for  richer  color, 

Miz  all  the  ingredients  together  cold.  The  imita- 
tion of  lemon  mixture  is  very  close  and  the  pie  is 
better  than  the  real  that  is  sometimes  made  with 
green  and  bitter  lemons. 


It  is  not  everyone  that  calls  himself  a  pastry  cook 
can  turn  out  hotel  pies  artistically,  and  however 
much  the  casual  reader  who  thinks  of  pie  only  as 
something  to  eat  may  be  amused  at  the  idea  we  as- 
sure him  there  are  possibilities  of  taking  high  posi- 
tion among  the  «"ther  things  of  beauty  on  the  weal 
thy  table  for  the  hotel  pie  which  do  not  exist  for  the 
private  house  pie,  or  the  baker's  pie,  or  if  they  do 
are  so  remote  it  will  take  ages  of  domestic  pie  cul- 
ture to  bring  them  in  sight.  The  experienced  hotel 
steward  knows  now  instantly  when  he  has  secured 
a  fully  developed  hotel  or  fine  steamboat  pie  maker. 
Your  baker  trained  to  work  for  the  hungry  pie  eater 
rather  than  for  the  luxurious  admirers  of  beaut  ifu 
pies  covers  every  pie  with  a  top  crust,  which  is  the 
first  sign,  but  the  great  sign  of  his  standing  is  Eet 
up  when  he  takes  both  hands  and  cuts  off  the  past. 
ry  by  pressing  against  the  edge  of  the  plate,  whirl, 
ing  the  pie  round  at  the  same  time.  Why  should 
he  make  or  wish  to  make  fine  leaf  paste  to  press  and 
mash  in  that  way?  But  your  first-class  pastry  cook 
having  made  his  paste  so  that  the  flakes  will  rise 
and  open  as  distinct  and  separate  as  the  leaves  of  a 
rose  and  of  a  thinness  more  impalpable  than  tha^, 
no  matter  how  rapidly  he  may  work,  will  roll  even- 
ly, throw  it  on  the  pie  pan  lightly,  shake  it  down  to 
place  with  a  little  jar  upon  the  table,  take  it  up  on 
the  fingers  of  the  left  hand  and  cut  around  with  a 
sharp  knife,  not  leaving  the  least  sign  of  pressure, 
finger  mark  or  drag  or  tear  about  it.  These  pies 
though  having  tall  flake-piled  edges  are  pretty  sure 
to  be  almost  as  dry  and  free  from  grease  as  flaby 
biscuits  and  quite  wholesome  both  to  eat  and  to  see. 
If  people  say  that  hotel  pies  are  not  so  we  reply  that 
it  is  because  the  pastry  art  is  somewhat  difficult  and 
there  are  few  masters  of  it,  the  begirjners  are  slow  t  > 
get  hold  of  the  fi  le  touches  and  the  hotels  are  ful^ 
of  half  taught  beginners.  We  don't  know  anything 
about  the  private  houses,  and  these  remarks  make 
no  invidious  reflections  upon  the  household  pie. 
With  both  bottom  and  top  crust  rolled  thin  and 
powdered  sugar  on  top  it  is  good.  But  the  hotel  pie 
contemplates  life  from  a  different  stand  point  and 
like  all  the  products  of  high  art  it  is  somewhat  aris- 


tocratic. Literature  is  cheap  and  common — you  can 
buy  a  rare  classic  for  ten  cents — the  best  thoughts 
of  the  best  writers  for  a  nickel — imitations  not  to  be 
detected  of  the  rarest  gems  for  a  dollar  or  two— but 
the  ideal  hotel  pie  is  only  for  the  few. 


So  careful  and  tender  is  the  good  workman  of  his 
leaf  paste  that  he  slants  the  knife  outwards  when 
cutting  that  the  paste  may  be  wide  and  make  a 
broad  edge;  and  that  broad  edge  he  notches  with  a 
sharp  knife  in  the  places  where  the  pie  is  to  be 
divided,  lest  with  a  rude  'pressure  somebody  will 
crush  and  spoil  the  flakes  in  cutting  the  pie  after  it 
is  baked. 


Greatest  country,  tallest  mountains,  longest  rivers, 
biggest  pies. 

43.       Meringue  for  Lemon  ?ies. 


The  secret  of  making  the  meringue  or  frosting 
stand  tall  and  thick  on  the  pies  is  in  the  baking. 
Whip  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  froth  that  will  not  fall 
out  of  the  bowl  or  pail  when  turned  upside  down, 
put  in  about  a  tablespoon  ful  of  granulated  sugar  for 
each  white,  stir  very  little,  spread  it  on  the  pies 
when  they  are  just  done  and  still  baking  hot  with- 
out taking  them  out  of  the  oven,  and  let  them  bake 
with  the  door  open.  If  made  hot  enough  to  brown 
the  meringue  will  surely  fall  and  become  worse  than 
nothing.  5  to  10  minutes  is  enough  to  bake  the 
meringue  dry  and  straw-colored.  Sift  granulated 
sugar  on  top  of  the  meringue  as  soon  as  spread,  be- 
fore baking,  to  form  a  rich  appearing  crust  for  vari- 
ety. 


44, 


Oocoanut  Custard  Pie. 


Make  a  common  plain  custard  of  1  quart  of  milk, 
6  or  8  eggs  and  6  ounces  of  sugar,  then  mix  in  8  to 
12  ounces  of  grated  cocoanut.     Bake  in  crusts. 


45.  Oocoanut  Pie.    Hotel  Ordinary, 


1  quart  of  milk. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
1  ounce  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  grated  cocoanut. 

6  eggs. 

Boil  the  milk,  mix  the  starch  in  the  sugar  dry 
and  stir  them  in  and  the  butter  and  cocoanut,  and 
then  take  the  mixture  from  the  fire.  Sdr  in  the 
eggs  after  it  has  cooled  a  little.  The  eggs  should  be 
beaten  quite  light  first.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over 
the  pies  after  baking. 


For  cocoanut  meringue  pie  make  the  preceding 
mixture  with  12  yolks  of  eggs  and  take  the  whites 
to  beat  up  for  the  meringue.  Strew  cocoanut  on 
top  before  baking. 


16 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


46. 


White  Oocoanut  Pie. 


The  same  mixture  as  the  above  made  very  deli- 
cate  and  enow  white  by  letiing  it  become  cold  and 
then  stirring  in  instead  of  yolks  12  or  14  whites  of 
eggs  whipped  to  a  froth,  and  a  slight  flavoring  of 
rose  and  oiange.  Sift  powdered  buzbt  over  when 
done  Good  to  fill  in  pnste  lined  patty  pans  for 
gem-tar»8,  very  light  baked.  Good  to  use  up  white 
of  eggs  left  over 


47. 


Orange  Pie. 


Generally  made  with  the  object  of  using  up  a  sur- 
plus of  perishable  fruit. 

Peel  half  the  number  of  oranges  required.  With 
a  very  sharp  knife  slice  them  across  the  core,  throw 
out  the  seeds,  lay  the  slices  over  the  bottoms  of 
paste-lined  pie  pans  alternately  with  slices  of  un- 
peeled  oranges.  Strew  sugar  over  and  pour  over 
that  a  cooking  spoonful  of  red  wine.  Bake  slowly 
till  the  juice  is  become  thick  eyrup. 


Cocoanut  and  leraou  juice  may  be  mixed  with  or 
strewn  over  the  above.  Orang^i  pi.  s  can  be  made 
by  the  lemon  pie  receipis,  a?  d  wish  part  lemons. 


48. 


Orange  Butter  Pie. 


8  ounces  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  best  fresh  butter. 

9  eggs. 

2  oranges. 

Grate  the  rinds  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  OTan- 
ges  into  the  sugar  in  a  deep  saucepan,  put  in  the 
butter  and  then  the  eggs  slightly  beaten.  Set  the 
mixture  over  the  fire  and  stir  it  till  it  becomes  thick 
and  ropy,  like  melted  cheese.  It  may  lessen  the 
trouble,  and  danger  of  burning  on  the  bottom  to  set 
it  in  a  large  saucepan  containing  boiling  water. 
When  done  beat  the  mixture  with  an  egg  whisk  a 
few  minutes.  The  cooking  of  this  mixture  causes  it 
to  remain  light  and  thick  and  rounded  in  the  pies 
or  tarts  after  baking,  instead  of  filling  and  becom- 
ing wixy  as  it  o'herwise  would  do.  Bake  in  a  very 
Sfow  oven  or  with  a  pan  on  the  shelf  above  to  ward 
off  the  hei\t. 

40.  Orange  Dariole  Filling.    Richest. 

Requires  deep  pans  for  baking  in  as  it  flows  over 
ordinary  rims 
1  pound  of  sugar. 
8  ounces  of  butter. 
4  oranges. 

10  eggs. 

Grate  and  squeeze  the  oranges  into  the  sugs.r,  add 
the  butter  and  eggs  and  cook  the  mixture  thiik  over 


the  fire  with  constant  stirring.     Let  it  cool  and  then 

beat  it  ligtit  before      ling  the  crusts. 


And  yet  some  worthy  hopefuls  having  seen  pio 
edges  stand  two  inches  high  in  distinct  flakes  while 
weighing  next  to  nothing,  will  do  their  brave  en- 
deavors too,  and  lay  a  double  edge  on  theirs,  ma- 
king a  band  of  paste  to  place  on  the  rim  of  the  plate 
first,  washed  with  egg,  and  the  proper  pie  crust  laid 
on  lop.  That  is  all  wrong.  We  told  them  they 
could  not  make  our  hotel  pies.  For  if  the  airiest 
crust  that  can  be  laid  on  a  pie  edge  will  hardly  be 
Citen  is  it  not  folly  to  double  the  weight  and  sub- 
stance? Puff-paste  perfectly  made  will  rise  high 
enough  from  one  layer  only  from  an  eighth  to  a 
quarter  inch  thick.  If  it  will  not  then  it  will  not 
when  doubled  in  thickness.  And,  besides,  how 
much  valuable  time  is  wasted  from  better  work, 
putting  a  useless  double  edge  on  the  pies. 


50. 


Apple  Cream  Pie. 


Marlborough  Pudding  or  Pie. 


1  pint  of  stewed  jypples. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  milk. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

4  eggs. 

Little  sherry  wine  and  nutmeg. 

Mix  all  together.     Bake  in  crusts. 


51,   Apple  Custard  Pie  or  Pudding. 


1  quart  of  dry  stewed  apples. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  butter. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

Juice  and  rind  of  1  lemon  and  nutmeg. 

The  apples  should  be  stewed  with  as  little  water 
as  possible  with  the  steam  shut  in.  Mash  them 
through  a  strainer.  Cook  the  pulp  over  the  fire 
with  the  sugar  and  butter  in  and  then  add  the  beat- 
en yolks  and  flavor.    Bake  in  crusts. 


And  where  it  is  so  requisite  to  have  the  fine  flakes 
of  puff-paste  lie  straight  and  undisturbed  care  must 
be  taken  in  handling  the  small  portions  when  roll- 
ing out  pie  crusts.  Green  people  always  will  take 
the  trimmings  of  the  last  pie  and  work  and  kuead 
and  pound  and  press  Jit  to  death.  You  musn't  do 
that.  Lay  the  scraps  in  layers  in  a  pile  loose  on 
each  other.  Cut  a  chunk  square  and  small  from  the 
large  piect  of  paste  and  lay  it  on  top  of  the  scraps, 
then  roll  out  to  a  quarter  inch  thickness.  Now  you 
don't  want  the  bottom  crust  of  the  pie  to  be  so  thick 
as  that — nobody  wants  to  eat  so  much  soggy  under 
crust — but  you  do  want  that  thickness  for  the  edge. 
So  double  the  sheet  of  paste  over  on  itself  in  half. 


THE  A3Sfl:EKICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


17 


and  with  the  end  of  the  rolling  pin  roll  that  part 
that  will  be  the  middle  of  the  pie  to  half  the  thick- 
ness. You  will  of  crurse  have  flour  enough  about 
it  to  prevent  sticking  together.  Then  open  out  the 
doubled  sheet  again  and  you  have  a  hollow  thinbot  = 
tomed  sheet  of  pa  te  just  ready  to  fit  the  pie  pan 
and  with  a  thick  edge  lo  hold  in  the  custards  and 
lemon  mixtures. 


53. 


Apple  Pies. 


1.  Pare  the  apples  and  slice  them  oflF  the  cores  in- 
to a  bright  pan  or  brass  kettle.  To  every  pound  al- 
low on  an  average  a  quarter  pound  of  white  sugar 
and  a  cupful  of  water.  Throw  in  6  cloves  or  some 
lemon  peel  for  flavor,  shut  wi  h  a  tight  lid  and  le; 
stew  slowly  in  the  steam.  M^sh  through  a  colan 
der.  Bike  in  open  pies.  Apfles  of  poor  qua'ity 
that  turn  blue  in  cooking  are  often  improved  by  the 
addition  of  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

2.  Apples  cored  and  quartered  and  stewed  in  fla 
vored  syrup  like  preserves  without  breaking  may  be 
filled  into  shell  pies  or  vol  au  vents  baked  sepai-ately, 
as  explained  further  on.  For  every  pound  of  the 
apple  quarters  allow  6  ounces  of  sugar  and  half  cup 
of  water  with  cloves  and  lemon  peel.  Let  the  syr- 
up boil  first,  throw  in  the  apple  quarters  and  shut 
in  the  steam.  Simmer  half  an  hour  without  stirring 
them. 

3.  Early  green  apples.  Wash  and  steam  them 
whole.  Mash  through  a  colander,  aid  sugar,  but- 
ter and  cinnamoi  or  nutmeg.  Bake  with  a  top 
crust.     Powd  red  f-ugar  over  when  done. 

4.  Sliced  apple  pie.  Use  this  way  only  the  best 
ripe  cooking  apples  Pare  and  core  them  and  slice 
them  thin  across  the  core.  Fill  paste-lined  pie  pans, 
about  2  layers  deep.  Thinly  cover  the  apple  slices 
with  sugar  and  grate  nutmeg  over.  Put  i\  each  pie 
butter  gize  of  a  walnut  and  a  large  spoonful  of  wa 
ter.  Bake  without  a  top  crust  slowly  and  dry. 
The  apples  become  transparent  and  half  candied. 


53,       Pineapple  Cream  Pie. 


1  quart  of  pineapple  either  grated,  or  chopped 
and  pounded. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  cream. 

12  yolks  of  eggs. 

C  )ok  the  pineapp'e  pulp  and  sugar  together  a  few 
minutes,  add  the  cream  and  the  yolks  well  beaten, 
bake  in  thin  crusts.  The  same  ingredients  all  stirr- 
ed over  the  fite  till  cooked  thick,  make  a  pineapple 
cream  to  spread  on  layer  cakes,  and  fill  tarts. 

54.  

Cranberries  have  a  better  color  cooked  with  the 
sugar.  To  a  quart  of  cranberries  allow  a  half  pound 
of  sugar,  and  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  ves- 
sel only,  cook  in  their  own  steam  about  half  an  hour. 


They  scorch  easily — should  not  be  set  in  the  hottest 
place.  The  juice  that  can  be  strained  from  them 
without  mashing  makes  the  brightest  jelly  when 
cod.     Mash  the  rest  through  a  colander  for  pies. 

Strawberries  should  be  put  in  the  crusts  raw  and 
sugar  strewn  over.  Canned  strawberries  shouid  be 
strained  from  the  juice  and  that  boiled  down  with 
sugar  to  about  half,  and  the  fruit  returned  to  it. 

Peaches  use  same  as  apples,  also  for  peach  custard 
pie.  The  peach  kernels  stewed  with  the  fruit 
heighten  the  flavor. 

Gooseberries  green  require  12  ounces  of  sugar  to 
a  pound  of  fruit;  they  should  be  partly  mashed 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon  for  better  mingling  with 
the  sweet. 

Plums  and  such  large  fruits  are  not  serviceable 
unless  cut  or  broken.  A  can  of  currants  or  whortle- 
berries will  make  five  pies  and  the  same  sized  can 
of  plums  only  two  or  three. 

Quinces  give  an  improved  flavor  to  apples  stewed 
with  them.  Quince  pies  may  be  made  by  grating 
the  fruit  and  mixing  with  sugar,  or  by  stewing 
sliced  quinces  wish  water  and  lemon  juice  and  then 
adding  sugar  to  m  ike  a  thin  syrup.  Best  for  shell 
pies.  Bartlett  pears  make  good  pies.  Some  other 
varieties  can  be  used  like  quinces. 

Rhubarb  should  be  cooked  with  only  water 
enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  kettle,  a  half 
pound  of  brown  sugar  to  a  pound  of  the  stalks 
spread  over  the  top  and  the  steam  shut  in 

Raspberries,  currants,  blackberries  and  all  such 
fruits  as  are  apt  lo  become  all  juice  should  have  the 
same  avoidance  of  water  as  rhubarb  and  be  cooked 
in  their  own  steam. 

Bananas  and  Plantains  are  made  into  pies  in  the 
South  in  the  same  manner  as  has  been  directed  for 
sliced  apple  pies,  with  mace  and  wine  or  brandy 
added. 

Tomatoes  can  be  used  in  pies  if  boiled  down  with 
sugar.  Scald  and  peel  and  let  them  drain  of  half 
their  juice.  To  each  pint  of  draied  tomatoes  allow 
4  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  little  bruised  race  ginger. 
Stew  down  thick. 

Figs  either  fresh  or  dried  can  be  made  into  pies, 
cut  up  and  stewed  in  syrup  with  a  lemon  or  two  and 
some  butter. 

"That  was  like  Macready  at  the  Palladium.  Ed. 
Forrest  he  quit  the  Palladium  to  go  to  the  Athenae- 
um, and  Ed  had  been  throwing  'em  up  some  jam  up 
punkin  pies  and  a  lot  of  the  fellows  that  get  up  late 
n  the  morning  after  breakfast  hours  got  to  coming 
and  saying  'give  me  a  punkin  pie  and  some  cofiee 
and  I  can  wait  till  dinner,'  and  some  of  *em  would 
eat  two  regular.  So  when  Ed  quit,  all  the  boss 
could  find  on  the  town  was  Macready.  He  had  to 
go  on  the  night  watch  and  there  was  about  75  pies 
to  make  before  morning.  So  Mac.  he  goes  to  the 
night  head  waiter  and  says  he,  'Fruit's  all  right  but 


18 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


say,  how  do  you  go  to  work  to  make  a  punkin  pie? 
•Well,  the  head  waiter  he  growls  and  Bays  he  'Oh, 
what  do  you  take  me  for?  who's  hired  night  o?ok 
here — ^you  or  me?'  So  Mac  goes  to  work  and  rolls 
out  his  pies  and  opens  the  cans  of  punkin  and 
spoons  'em  out  into  the  crusts  without  no  sweeten  in' 
nor  nothing  and  bakes  'em  off.  And  along  in  the 
morning  the  fellows  began  to  drop  in  and  one  of 
them  gets  up  on  the  high  stool  to  the  lunch  counter 
and  says  he  'give  me  my  tn  o  punkin  pies  and  coffee.' 
Well,  sir,  he  took  a  bite  and  began  to  oat,  and  then 
he  stopped  with  it  in  bis  mouth  and  studied  like, 
and  then  he  spit  it  out  on  the  floor  and  says  he 
what  in  the  Halifax  sort  of  a  punkin  pie  is  that  any- 
how. And  the  pie  business  was  entirely  broke  up 
and  Macready  he  got  bounced." 

55.    Ohooolate  Cream  Pie. 


Penohonettes  au  Chocolat. 


1  quart  of  milk. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

2  ounces  of  chocolate  grated. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

5  yolks  of  eggs. 

8  whites  of  eggs  and  4  ounces  of  sugar  for  mer- 
ingue, and  vanilla  to  flavor. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  chocolate  in  it,  and  a  little 
of  the  sugar  to  prevent  burning  on  the  bottom,  mix 
the  flour  and  rest  of  the  sugir  thoroughly  together 
dry  and  beat  them  into  it  Then  add  the  butter  and 
the  yolks  well  beaten  and  take  the  mixture  immedi- 
ately from  the  fire.  Bake  in  thin  crusts  of  puff- 
paste.  Whip  the  whites  of  eggs  firm  while  the  pies 
are  baking,  add  the  sugar  and  vanilla ;  spread  over 
the  pies  still  hot  in  the  oven  and  bake  with  the  oven 
door  open  a  few  minutes. 


56.    Lemon  Cream  Pie* 

1  quart  of  milk. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 
4  ounces  of  flour. 
1  ounce  of  butter. 
8  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  lemon,  juice  and  rind,  or  lemon  extract. 
Pinch  of  salt. 

Mike  as  directed  in  preceding  receipt,  without  the 
chocolate 

57.    Cream  Confiture,  for  Pies  and  Tarts. 


1  pint  of  cream. 

10  eggs. 

1  pint  of  red  currant  jelly. 

Warm  the  jelly  enough  to  just  melt  it  and  beat 
into  it  the  eggs  and  cream  Bake  in  thin  puff-paste 
crusts.     Powdered  sugar  over  when  done. 


68.    Custard  Pie.    Ordinary. 


8  eggs. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

6  or  8  ounces  of  sugar. 

Nutmeg,  lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring. 

Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together,  add  the  milk 
gradually,  flavor,  and  bake  in  deep  paste.lined  pie 
pans  with  high  edges.  The  thisker  the  custard  the 
better  the  pie. 


59.    Harvest  Pie.    Vinegar  Pie, 

Made  without  eggs  or  milk: 

1  pint  of  water. 

^  pint  of  vinegar. 

1  pound  of  brown  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

1  teaspoon  ful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

Boil  the  water,  vinegar  and  butter  together.  Mix 
the  flour,  sugar  and  cinnamon  together  dry  and 
dredge  them  into  the  boiling  liquid,  beating  at  the 
same  time.  Take  it  off  the  fire  as  soon  as  partly 
thickened,  before  it  boils.  May  be  baked  either  with 
or  without  a  top  crust. 


60.    Butter  Pie. 

1  quart  of  milk  or  cream. 

8  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

1  pound  of  white  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  butter  in  it.  Mix  the  flour 
and  sugar  together  dry,  stir  them  into  the  boiling 
mi^k  and  take  the  mixture  from  the  fire  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  thicken.     Bake  like  a  custard  in  a  crust. 


61. 


Corn  Starch  Custard  Pie  or  Arrow- 
root Pudding. 


1  quart  of  milk. 

2  ounces  of  starch. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

6  eggs.     Lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring. 

Mix  the  starch  with  a  little  of  the  milk  cold.  Boil 
the  rest  of  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it,  stir  in  the 
starch,  then  the  butter  and  eggs,  and  take  it  from 
the  fire  immediately.     Bake  in  crusts. 


62.    Cream  Curd  Pie. 


1  pound  of  dry  cheese  curd  (product  of  4  quarts 
of  milk  curdled  with  rennet). 
8  ounces  of  butter. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
4  whole  eggs  and  6  yolks. 
1  cupful  of  milk. 


THE  AMERIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


19 


4  ounces  of  currants* 
Nutmv'g   orange  or  other  flavoring. 
Mash  th^  curd  through  a  seive  and  mix  in  the 
other  ingredients.     Bake  in  crusts. 


63.    Potato  Cream  Pie. 

1  pound  of  mashed  potatoes. 

8  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

6  eggs 

1  capful  of  mixed  milk  and  brandy  or  wine 

Bail  good  mealy  potatoes  and  mash  them  through 
a  seive.  Mix  the  butter  with  them  while  warm,  then 
the  sugar,  milk  and  flavoring.  Separate  the  eggs  and 
beat  both  yolks  and  whites  quite  light  and  stir 
them  in  just  before  baking.  Bake  in  crusts.  Sift 
powdered  sugar  over  when  done. 

64.    Sweet  Potato  Pies. 


1.  Make  by  the  preceding  receipt,  using  sherry 
wine  instead  of  brandy.  They  need  careful  baking 
of  a  light  colar,  to  be  good.     Powdered  sugar  over. 

2.  Sice  cooked  sweet  potatoes  into  the  crusts 
strew  sugar  over  plentifully,  and  broken  blades  of 
mace,  and  small  lumps  of  butter.  In  each  pie  pour 
half  cupful  of  wine.     Bake  slowly. 

65.    Pumpkin  Transparent  Pie. 


Made  without  milk  or  eggs. 

2  pounds  of  pumpkin — or  1  quart. 

1  p  )uad  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

Flavoring  either  of  lemon  rind,  cloves  or  nutmeg. 

The  pump'iin  must  be  dry,  either  baked  or 
steamed.  Mash  it  through  a  strainer,  mix  the  eugir 
and  butter  with  it  and  let  simmer  at  the  side  of  the 
range  to  become  thick.     Fiavor,  and  bake  in  crusts. 


66.    Pumpkin  Pie,  Cheap. 


2  pounds  of  dry  mashed  pumpkin. 
4  ounces  of  sugar. 
2  ounces  of  butfer. 
2  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  milk. 
Little  ground  cinnamon. 

67.    Pumpkin  Pie, 

2  pounds  of  pumpkin— Slewed  dry. 
8  ounces  of  butter. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

1  cup  of  milk. 


Ginger,  cinnamon,  or  nutmeg. 
Beat  the  eggs  light  aud  stir  them  in  after  every 
thing  else  is  mixed. 


68.    Pumpkin  or  Squash  Custard. 


Make  a  custard  of  eggs,  a  quart  of  milk,  and 
sugar,  and  mix  mashed  pumpkin  with  it  to  suit — 1 
quart  of  mashed  pumpkin  is  about  right. 

69.    Brown  Squash  Pie. 


2.  pounds  of  dry  mashed  squash — a  quart. 

8  ounces  of  molasses. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

8  eggs.     Ginger  and  allspice. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

Mix  the  butter  with  the  squash  while  still  warm, 
I  hen  the  molasses  and  rest  of  the  ingredients.  With 
the  right  kind  of  molasses  or  part  black  molasses 
and  part  sugar,  and  spice  skillfully  proportioned 
this  variety  proves  to  be  a  favorite. 

70.  Allowing  that  is  not  strictly  in  the  line  of 
hotel  fellows*  duty  to  pass  opinions  wpon  manners 
aid  ways  people  have  but  considering  the  many  as- 
persions that  are  cast  upon  pie  and  its  friends,  may 
we  not  ask  one  question — it  is  not  more  American- 
like to  like  pie  and  say  you  like  pie,  and  make  it 
big  and  make  it  good,  than  to  beat  about  the  bu^h 
and  try  to  hide  an  inordinate  admiration  of  pie 
under  such  names  as  darioles,  bouchees,  mirlitons, 
flans,  vol-au'veats,  tourtes,  tartelettes  and  a  lot  more 
as  the  French  do,  and  turnovers,  puflFs  and  tarts  like 
the  E  ig'ish?  You  will  find  if  you  look  thai  Mr. 
Cliva  Newcome,  in  The  Newcomes,  when  a  b  y  at  col- 
lege was  remarkably  fond  of  raspberry  tarts  and  it 
took  all  hii  pocket  money  and  much  that  he  man- 
aged to  get  from  a  friend  or  two  besides  to  purchase 
them,  and  there  is  nothing  sardonic  in  Mr.  Tbacke^ 
ray'ssfflteraentof  that  not  uncommon  trait  of  his.  But 
those  raspberry  tarts  are  not  to  be  conf -unded  for  a 
minute  with  the  indescribab'e  English  household  pie— 
the  tar! 8  weie  and  are  neither  more  nor  leps — exc?pt 
in  size — than  our  American  open  pie?.  Could  Mr. 
Clive  be  blamed  for  loving  them?  Why  even  Amer- 
ican collegians  are  not  above  such  a  weakness  as 
that. 

Tarte,  tourte,  tart  is  the  European  for  the  Ameri- 
can pie,  made  open — that  is  without  a  top  crust — or 
at  most  with  only  strips  across.  The  tart  proper  is 
not  larger  than  the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  is  made 
in  patty  pans  or  small  pie  pans  of  any  form,  ova', 
oblong,  square  or  round.  People  like  pie  for  supper, 
and  country  hotels  with  the  old  style  of  long  table 
set  them  on  it.  but  Fashion  does  not  allow  it.     But 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


you  can  circumvent  Fashion  (and  ane  will  be  secret- 
ly pleased  thereby)  by  serving  tarts  both  for  lunch - 
ton  and  supper. 

Now  tarls  or  tiny  pies  are  tedious  to  make  in 
numbers  and  advantage  must  be  takeo,  get  the  shal- 
low pafty-pans  fastened  together  a  dozen  in  a  bunch. 
Roll  out  the  paste  to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thickness 
in  a  large  sheet,  and  cut  out  flats  with  a  biscuit  cut- 
ter or  any  oval  or  other  cutter  that  will  match  your 
patty-pans.  Press  the  paste  with  the  thumbs  to 
the  shape,  cut  off  the  surplus  even  with  the  edges 
and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  any  kind  of  pie  fruit  or  of 
the  mixtures  just  preceding,  or  of  the  various  creams, 
apple  or  cocoanut  cream  etc  ,  and  you  can  give  pie 
for  supper  luncheon  and  tea  and  Fashion  will  tever 
be  the  wiser. 


Ihe  small  tartlets  using  up  the  pie  paste  remain- 
ing after  dinner  and  taking  but  a  teaspoonful  of  fill- 
late  cream,  puff-paste  is  not  the  best.     The  annexed  i^g  make  a  desirable  addition  to  or  substitute  for 

cake  in  the  baskets  for  supper.  The  next  are  larger 
cutters  for  oyster  patties  and  vol  au- vents  of  birds 
etc 


For  some  of  the  pie  mixtures  such  as  the  choco. 


^8  a  kind  specially  made  for  "small  bakings.' 


11. 


Tart  Paste 


1  pound  of  flour. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 
2  eggs.     Little  salt. 

^  cupful  of  water.  The  annexed  show  forms  of   bouchees  and  tartlets 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  eggs,  sugar  that  it  might  be  difficult  to  make  plain  in  words  on. 

and  salt  with  the  water,  mix  and  knead  it  smooth.     My.     The  three  lower  figures  are  intended   to   show 
<y(g^  I  how  the  puff-paste  is   folded,  and  the  three   upper 

Tartlets,   Bouchees   and   Vol-au-vents.  ^'^  ^'■'^^'^^  *^'®^  ***^*"g- 


The  fine  leaf  paste  or  puff-paste  being  ready  there 
is  nothing  easier  to  make  than  vol-au-vent  tartlets 
like  those  shown  below.  Roll  out  the  paste  to  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  or  even  thinner, 
cut  out  with  the  double  cutter,  place  the  tartlets  in 
pans  like  biscuits  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  They 
rise  to  three  or  four  times  the  heighth  of  the  paste 
they  are  cut  from.  Lift  out  the  little  lid  made  by 
the  cutter  in  the  middle  or  else  push  it  down  and 
fill  the  CHvity  with  a  spoonful  of  red  currant  jelly  or 
lemon  honey  or  any  kind  of  fruit  or  preserves. 


The  tin. smiths  make  and  keep  for  sale  the  double 
cutters  that  cut  out  rings  for  doughnuts  and  jum- 
bies,  like  two  of  these  in  the  cut  with  the  inside  cut- 
ter on  a  level  with  the  outside  and  cutting  the  mid- 
dle of  the  paste  clear  through,  but  the  vol-au-vent 
cutters  have  to  be  made  to  order.  The  inner  cut- 
ting edge  is  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  below  the  outer 
and  only  marks  out  a  lid. 


NO.  2. 


NO.    1. 


N03. 


1-  For  the  form  shown  in  the  middle  roll  out  the 
finest  leaf  paste  to  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Cut  it  in  squares  of  about  2  J  inches  and 
fold  over  the  four  corners  to  meet  in  the  middle 
where  there  should  be  a  drop  of  water  placed  to 
make  them  slick.  Stamp  out  a  round  piece  of  pasta 
like  a  lozenge  and  lay  on  the  center.  Brush  over 
with  a  little  beaten  egg-and-water  without  wetting 
the  edges  of  the  paste,  and  bake.  The  shell  can  be 
partly  hollowed  out  when  done,  and  filled  with  any 


THE  AISIERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


21 


kind  of  mince  or  sweetmeat. 

2.  For  the  left  hand  figure  roll  out  the  same  as 
the  preceding  and  cut  and  fold  over  the  same  and 
then  cut  pieces  out  of  the  four  sides  to  make  the 
shape  shown.  These  leaf  tartlets  open  out  and  rise 
as  high  in  baking  as  the  middle  figure.  Fill  th® 
hollows  with  bright  frait  jelly 

3.  The  three  cornered  bouchees  or  tarts  have  the 
filling — either  mince  or  salpican,  or  yellow  or  red 
conserve  or  jelly-baked  in  them.  Roll  out  a  sheet 
of  puff-paste  and  cut  out  like  biscuits,  with  a  large 
cutter.  Place  a  teaspoonful  of  the  filling  in  each 
wet  the  edge  of  the  paste  and  pinch  it  up  in  the 
shape  of  a  three-cornered  hat.  Brush  over  with 
fgg-and  water  and  dredge  with  granulated  sugar  if 
W  a  sweet  tart.     Bake  in  a  rather  slack  oven. 

Beside  the  foregoing,  other  shapes  may  be  made 
by  stamping  out  the  s  'iet  of  paste  with  an  oval  cut- 
ter and  doubling  the  a's  over  like  French  split 
rolls,  and  by  doubling  ever  square  cuts.  These 
open  up  like  the  leaves  of  a  book  and  jelly  or  pre- 
serves can  be  inserted  in  the  cavities.  . 


T3.      American  Popular  Ices. 

The  combinations  following  are  not  too  dreadfully 
original  in  idea  to  be  eminently  proper  "according 
to  Hoyle,"  neither  are  they  copies.  They  are  inno- 
cent American  variations  of  the  class  of  European 
"iced-puddings,"  and  bombes  a  la  Viennoise.  They 
are  popular  ices  in  the  sense  that  they  are  among 
the  tbirsgs  which  make  hotel  tables  popular  with 
high-priced  people.  They  are  among  the  super-ex- 
cellerces  and  quiet  gurprises  which  give — but  there, 
we  are  getting  beyond  our  depth — what  we  do  want 
to  say  is  that  served  individually  they  can  be  man- 
aged easily  eioughin  the  hotels  which  do  not  em- 
ploy a  confectioner  or  men  specially  detailed  to 
make  the  ices,  but  where  the  pastry,  cook  has  to  be 
a  man-of-all-work;  while  the  moulding  in  'bombes" 
involves  a  great  expenditure  of  time  and  freezing 
material.  These  have  all  been  well  tried  and  often. 
The  simplest  and  best  methods  of  moulding,  froth- 
ing, freezing  etc.  will  also  be  found  explained  among 
the  commoner  ices  further  on. 


Hastorskill  Ices. 


Combination  of  rose  pink  cream  with  pale  green 
ice  containing  grapes  and  almonds.  Two  freezers 
lequired. 

14,   Rose  Ice  Cream* 

I  quart  of  cream. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 


12  eggs. 

A  pinch  of  palt,  coloring  and  flavoring. 

Take  off  a  third  of  the  cream,  the  thickeet,  from 
the  top,  and  keep  it  cold  to  be  whipped  to  frothy 
while  the  other  is  freezing.  Boil  the  rest  of  the 
cream  with  (he  sugar  in  it,  which  prevents  burning. 
Beat  the  eggs  in  a  bowl  as  light  as  if  for  sponge 
cake,  pour  the  boiling  cream  and  sugar  to  them  and 
cook  about  a  minute  together — enough  to  slightly 
thickea  but  not  boil.  Strain  into  a  freezer  immedi- 
ately, add  a  few  drops  of  rose  extract  and  some 
bright  red  fruit  syrup  such  as  the  surplus  juice  from 
crimson  strawberries  in  sugar,  or  else  some  drops  of 
red  coloring,  to  make  the  ere  im light  pink.  Freeze, 
and  when  nearly  finished  whip  the  reserved  cream 
to  froth  and  beat  it  in. 

When  cream  thick  enough  to  whip  cannot  be  had 
keep  out  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  use  the  same 
way  instead. 

75.   Grape  and  Almond  Ice. 

6  pints  of  sweet  white  muscat  grapes  free  from 
stems. 

1  pint  of  angelica  or  other  sweet  wine. 

1  pint  of  water. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  large  ripe  lemon. 

1  pound  of  almonds  blanched. 

Stew  three  pints  of  the  grapes  with  the  water  and 
sugar  and  when  tender  rub  the  pulp  through  a 
strainer  into  a  freezer,  together  with  the  syrup. 
Add  the  wine  and  the  lemon  cut  in  th  ck  short 
slices  with  the  seeds  carefully  excluded,  and 
freeze  the  mixture.  At  the  last  drop  in  the 
blanched  almonds  and  after  a  few  more  turns  of  the 
freezer  add  the  remaining  2  pints  of  grapes  previous- 
ly made  cold  on  ice.  C^ver  down  the  freezer  that 
the  ice  may  become  well  f  ozen. 

To  serve  individually  make  a  border  of  the 
cream  with  the  spoon  in  broad  champagne  glasses  or 
fancy  ice  glasses,  and  in  the  middle  pile  the  grape 
and  almond   sherbet. 

For  fancy  moulded  creams  line  the  moulds  with 
the  first  part  and  fill  the  centers  with  the  second. 

YO.  

A  favorite  form  of  bombe  is  frozen  in  a  mould  in 
the  shape  of  a  little  glass  jug  with  handle  and  all 
compl<  te.  This  is  coated  inside  with  a  translucent 
fruit  or  flavored  syrup  ice  and  the  filling  is  of,  for  ex- 
ample, a  maraschino  ice  cream,  or  one  dotted  with 
strawberries.  V  hen  the  bombe  well  frozen  is  taken 
out  of  its  mould  and  set  on  the  table  on  its  folded 
napkin,  you  are,  if  you  please,  to  knock  off  the  neck 
of  the  ju^  and  dip  out  the  contents.  It  is  surmised 
that  it  is  called  a  bomb   because  it  goes  off  pretty 


2'^ 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


soon  amongst  a  whole  table  full  of  people;  but  the 
name  dees  not  suit  our  bills  of  fare.  The  ice  will 
go  off  better  when  it  is  not  called  a  bomb. 

Niagfara  Ices. 


Combination  of  rich  yellow  frozen  custard  with  a 
pink  sherbet  with  coooanut  and  oranges.  Two  free- 
zers required. 

77,  Yellow  Frozen  Custard. 
1  qu  irt  of  cream  or  milk. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
12  yolks  of  eggs. 

Vanilla  bean  or  extract  to  flavor. 
Boil  the  cream  with  the  sugar  and   vanilla  bean 

in  it  Beat  the  yolks  light  and  pour  the  boiling 
cream  to  them.  Set  on  the  fire  again  for  a  minute. 
The  custard  will  not  froth  in  the  freezer  if  cooked 
much,  but  should  be  taken  off  and  strained  aa  soon 
as  slightly  thickened.    Freeze  and  beat  light. 

78.  Orange  and  Cocoanut  Ice* 
1  pittt  of  port  wine, 
1  pint  of  water. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
8  ounces  of  desiccated  cocoanut — the  sugared  kind 

free  from  oil  must  be  used. 
4  oranges. 

2  lemons. 

Red  fruit  juice  or^coloring. 
M*ke  a  hot  syrup  of  the  water  and  sugar.    Slice 

the  oranges  and  lemons  small  and  throw  away  the 
seeds,  put  the  slices  in  a  bowl  with  the  desiccated 
cocoanut,  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  them  and  let  steep 
a  short  time.  Then  strain  the  flavored  syrup  into  a 
freezer,  add  the  wine  and  coloring  to  make  it  light 
pink  and  freeze.  M'ike  the  scalded  orange  and 
lem)n  slices  and  cocoanut  cold  on  ice  and  stir  them 
into  the  sherbet  when  nearly  frozen,  then  pack  down 
the  freezer  to  freeze  the  contents  firm. 

To  serve  individually  place  the  frozen  custard  in 
champagne  glasses,  spread  out  to  make  a  border, 
and  the  sherbet  pile  up  in  the  middle. 

And  "iced-pudding"  is  no  better  name,  although 
the  language  containing  no  other  for  such  a  com- 
pound, the  English  have  had  to  use  it.  But  their 
case  is  different,  they  have  deep  rooted  respect  for 
ancieot  pudding,  and  ice  cream  does  not  seem  to  be 
degrrtded  by  being  so  calif  d.     Sydney  Smith  in   es 


with  our  people's  association  of  ideas.  Iced  pud- 
ding is  base,  it  is  food;  ices,  ice-creams,  are  noble, 
hey  arc  etherial,  they  are  deliciouo. 


Monitou  Ices. 


Rocky  Mountain  scarlet  wild  raspberries  iia  ioei 
and  a  white  cream.    Two  freezers  required. 
79.   White  Starch  Ice  Cream. 
1  quart  of  rich  milk. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

2  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch. 
4  whites  of  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  of  lemon  extract. 
Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in   it.      Mix   the 

starch  in  a  cup  with  a  little  cold  milk  and  stir  it  in 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  put  in  the  butter  and  beat 
the  mixture  till  that  is  melted.  Strain,  cool  and  fla 
vor  it  and  freeze.  W  hen  nearly  finished  freezing 
whip  the  whites  to  froth  and  stir  them  into  the 
cream,  then  beat  it  with  a  paddle  till  it  fills  the 
freezer,  and  is  as  light  as  foam  and  white  as  snow. 
80.    Scarlet  Raspberry  Ice, 

3  or  4  pints  of  Rocky  Mountain  wild  raspberries. 
1^  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  pints  of  water. 

3  whites  cf  eggs. 
Pick  out  and  reserve  about  a  third  of  the  berries 

to  be  dropped  whole  into  the  ice  at  last. 

Make  a  syrup  of  the  sug^r  and  one  pint  of  water, 
pour  it  hot  upon  the  larger  portion  of  raspberries  in 

bowl  and  then  rub  them  through  a  strainer  togeth- 
er with  the  syrup,  and  use  the  other  pint  of  water 
to  help  the  pulp  through  when  dry.  Freeze,  and 
add  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  froth  when  nearly 
finished  and  after  beatipg  up  again  drop  in  the 
whole  raspberries  and  pack  down  the  freezer  with 
more  ice  and  salt  to  remain  till  wantedo 

Serve  the  white  cream  in  glasses  or  saucers  with 
the  red^ice  piled  in  the  hollow  middle. 


81, 


Frozen  Fruit  in  Ices. 


Broadly  speaking  it  may  be  said,  everybody  that 
likes  fruit  ices  or  sherbets  likes  the  frozen  pieces  of 
fruit  scattered  through  them  as  well.  But  there  are 
differences  which  it  wou'd  be   tedious  to   point   in 


planation  of  the  exact  stage  of  his  convalescence  each  case  depending  upon  the  degree  of  sweetness 
wrote  to  afriend  that  he  was  past  the  gruel  point,  past  of  the  fruit.  Strawberries  con'.aining  little  or-  no 
panada,  and  had  just  arrived  &t  pudding.  Thackeray  sugar  will  freeze  in  a  strawberry  water  ice  too  un- 
could  write  of  puddings,  as  did  Herrick,  Burns,  By- '  reasonably  solid  to  be  good,  while  sweet  Tokay  and 
ron  even,  and  there]is something  about  solid  pudding  Muscat  grapes,  sweet  ripe  cherries,  mellow  pears 
in  Shakspeare,  but  that   does  not  help  the  matter  and  the  like  will  never  become  too  hard  because  the 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


28 


sugar  in  them  prevents  it.  The  sweeter  an  article, 
whether  cream  or  fruit,  the  harder  it  is  to  freeze. 
To  keep  the  fruits  from  this  too  solid  congealing 
some  of  the  French  ways  steep  them  in  alcoholic  li- 
quers — methods  which  we  merely  mention  for  infor- 
mation without  believing  them  necessary  to  practice 
In  case  of  a  peach  ice,  then,  it  may  do  very  well 
when  the  peaches  are  very  sweet  and  ripe  to  drop 
th^  quarters  in  at  the  end  of  the  freezing  without 
any  preparation;  but  if  the  peiches  instead  are  in- 
clined to  sourness  stew  them  in  thick  syrup  withou 
bre-^^ing  the  quarters  and  drop  in  the  ice  after  first 
making  them  cold. 

Tahoe  Ices. 

Red  grape  ice  and  white  cherries  in  cream.  Two 
freezers  required. 

82.   Red  Grape  Ice. 

6  pin's  of  red  Tokay  grapes  (4  pounds.) 

IJ  pints  of  wafer. 

IJ  pounds  of  sugar. 

1  lemon  and  1  orange. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

Select  about  a  fourth  part  of  the  grapes  to  be 
dropped  whole  into  the  ice  at  last.  Scald  the  rest 
in  a  syrup  made  cf  the  sug<ir  and  part  of  the  water 
and  rub  the  pulp  through  a  strainer  together  with 
the  syrup  and  pour  over  the  skins  the  remaining 
portion  of  water,  add  the  jiice  of  the  lemon  and 
reeze  as  usual.  If  to  line  a  mould  the  whites  of 
eggs  may  be  omitted  and  a  little  red  fruit  juice  or 
coloring  can  be  added  to  make  a  more  positive  color, 
but  for  serving  in  glasses  add  the  whites  whipped 
firm  and  beat  the  ice  till  smooth  and  foamy.  Cut 
the  orange  in  strips,  without  peeling,  and  strew 
them  in  the  ice,  also  the  reserved  grapes  and  cover 
down  to  freeze  firm. 

83.   White  Cherry  Cream. 

1  quart  of  pure  sweet  cream. 

8  or  4  pints  of  California  white  wax  cherries. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

^  pint  of  water. 

Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water, 
drop  in  the  cherries  and  let  them  simmer  in  it 
about  15  minutes,  without  stirring  or  breaking. 
Then  strain  the  flavored  pyrup  into  the  freezer  and 
set  the  fruit  on  ice,  to  be  mixed  in  at  last.  Add  the 
quart  of  cream  to  the  syrup  in  the  freezer,  freeze 
and  beat  up  well,  then  stir  in  the  cherries  and  pack 
down  with  more  ice  and  salt. 

Artificial  ice  made  at  a  cost  of  one  dollar  a  ton; 
ice  cream  same  price.  *'It  were  a  consummation  de- 
voutly to  be  wished."     We  are  thinking  not  of  the 


finished  product  after  it  has  left  our  hands — perhaps 
the  young  gentlemen  who  take  the  young  ladies  out 
en  summer  evenings  would  not  wish  it  quite  so 
cheap — but  of  some  easy  and  perfect  process  of  freez- 
ing it  such  as  is  condensed  and  summed  up  in  the 
idea  conveyed  by  that  rate  of  cheapness.  For  few 
know  how  difficult  it  is  to  get  the  drudgery  of  ice- 
cream freezing  done  properly,  none  perhaps  but 
those  who  have  to  oversee  its  preparation  along  with 
a  number  of  other  skill-demanding  productions  for 
the  hotel  dinner.  It  is  of  little  avail  that  we  make 
the  cre^m  or  custard  or  sherbet  good  and  finely  fla- 
vored if  the  transformations  possible  in  the  freezing 
process  be  not  skilfully  carried  out.  In  freezing,  if 
you  know  how,  you  can  transform  skimmed  milk  in- 
to the  semblance  of  cream,  and  if  you  don't  you  can 
not  prevent  rich  cream  from  transforming  itself  into 
the  semblance  of  skimmed  milk. 

Now  when  they  get  through  with  that  tedious 
eleotrio  light  subdivision  perhaps  the  inventors  will 
subdivide  theariificial  ice  machines  so  that  ice  cream 
can  be  made  in  every  little  house  in  some  less  clum- 
sy and  imperfect  way  than  the  present  with  ice  and 
salt.  The  great  obstructionist  in  ice  cream  making 
is  the  lazy  yardman,  second  pastry-cook  or  other 
helper  who  ought  to  turn  the  freezer  fast  and  beat 
the  cream  thoroughly,  and  we  want  an  electrical  or 
chemical  machine  of  some  kind  to  supersede  him. 

White  Mountain  Ices* 

Sweet  peaches  and  cream  (Put  that  little  lady  the 
'school  marm  who  once  did  the  copying  of  some  of 
these  receipts  happened  to  be  a  White  Mountain 
girl  herself  and  when  she  reached  this  sett  she  sur- 
reptitiously took  the  name  and  placed  it  over  anoth- 
er sett  and  called  these  something  else,  as  if  sweet 
peaches  and  ice-cream  was  not  good  enough  for  the 
White  Mountains  or  Green  Mountains  either  for  that 
matter.  Red  grapes  indeed!  Which  sett  she  chose 
for  White  Mountain  ices  is  something  that  shall  nev" 
er  be  told.  Who,  allow  us  to  ask,  is  runningt  his?) 
Two  freezers  required. 

84.  Vanilla  Ice  Cream— Best^ 

1  quart  of  good  sweet  cream. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

Vanilla  flavoring — either  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
extract  or  a  vanilla  bean  boiled  in  a  little  milk  and 
the  milk  used  to  flavor. 

Use  a  freezer  th-xt  will  hold  twice  as  much  or  more. 
Sweeten  and  flavor  the  cream  and  churn  it  in  a  pail 
witha  whip-churn  till  half  of  it  is  froth.  Pour  it 
into  the  freezer  and  freeze  it  as  rapidly  as  possible. 
Then  take  out  the  inside  beater  and  with  a  wooden 
paddle  about  four  feet  bng,  made  like  a  spade  in 
!  shape  but  narrow,  beat  the  ice-cream  about  15  min- 


24 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


utes,  or  till  it  fills  the  freezer.      Cover  down  and 
pack  with  more  ice  and  salt. 
85.   Peacli  Ice. 

3  pints  of  peeled  mellow  peaches. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  pints  of  water. 

1  large  cupful  of  bright  red  currant  jelly. 
The  kernels  of  half  the  peaches. 

4  whites-of  eggs. 

The  peaches  should  be  choice,  yellow  or  red 
fleshed  and  sweet.  Half  of  them  are  to  be  cut  in 
pieces  as  large  as  cherries,  the  other  half  cooked. 

Put  the  water,  sugar,  peach  kernels  and  half  the 
peaches  on  to  stew  together  for  a  few  minutes,  mash 
the  fruit  with  the  back  of  a  spoon,  put  in  the  currant 
jelly  and  then  press  all  (except  the  kernels)  through 
a  strainer.  Freeze  as  usual,  add  the  whipped  white . 
of  eggs  to  to  the  ice  and  after  beating  also  mix  in  the 
cut  peaches. 

Line  the  moulds  wih  the  cream  and  fill  the  center 
with  the  peach  ice,  or  serve  the  cream  in  glasses  or 
saucers  as  a  border  with  the  peach  piled  in  the 
middle. 

Some  Points  on  loe-oream  and  other 
Ices. 


So  I  said  to  Johnny  said  I,  Johnny  you're,  stuck 
with  this  miserable  little  ice-cream  saloon,  and  the 
little  seventy  five  dollars  you'  ve  put  in  is  gone  sky- 
wards, don't  you  know  it?  And  you  owe  a  month's 
rent  beside.  And  here  at  the  same  time  are  your 
dollars  that  ought  to  be  and  your  tens  and  hundreds 
sitting  along  on  the  hotel  piazzas  and  riding  by  and 
walking  right  by  your  forsaken  little  den,  but  they 
won*t  come  in.  Of  course  they  won't.  Why  should 
they  when  you  don't  know  the  first  rudiments  of  the 
business.  Johnny,  don't  you  remember  when  you 
used  to  turn  the  freezers  for  two  mortal  hours  enough 
sight  slower  tlian  the  tick  of  your  grandfather's 
clock,  when  you  ought  to  have  been  done  in  twenty 
or  thirty  minutes,  wasting  ice  and  salt,  spoiling  the 
cream  and  wearing  out  me?  And  now  you'll  go  up 
for  want  of  knowing  something.  Now  if  you  was 
dead  for  instance  and  a  smart  boy  had  this  instead 
it  would  not  be  this  way.  There  are  bigger  resorts 
than  this,  don't  you  know?  and  some  where  the 
confectioneries  and  all  are  made  under  the  same 
roof,  but,  let  me  tell  you,  even  there  the  extra  fine 
creams  and  ices  are  in  a  side  show  and  are  extra 
charges,  and  more  so  at  all  commoner  places  unless 
the  pastry  cook  has  uncommon  ambition  to  shine. 
But  you  take  a  hotel  that's  got  two  hundred  summer 
people,  and  there's  two  pastry  cooks,  but  after 


they've  worked  up  their  barrel  of  flour  a  day  In 
all  shapes,  and  other  things  in  proportion,  and  hot 
weather  at  that,  they  don't  feel  much  like  spreading 
themselves  on  fancy  creams  and  ices,  and  it's  the 
same  miserable  lemon  custard  and  vanilla  oustard 
sort  of  frozen  any  way  to  put  it  through  at  this  ho- 
tel and  that  hotel,  and  if  the  people  are  asked  to 
visit  at  the  other  hotel  they  are  sure  to  be  treated 
to  the  same  old  thing  again.  Well  then  they  go  to 
the  cafe  and  fine  restaurant  where  these  things  are 
made  specialties,  and  that's  what  you  ought  to  be 
doing  now  Johnny  if  jou  knew  how. 

But  in  the  first  place  you  don*t  have  ice-cream  on 
hand  half  the  time  and  people  as  they  pass  say  <<oh 
its  of  no  use,  they  hardly  ever  have  any  there,'*  so 
they  quit  coming  because  they  don't  like  to  be  dis- 
appointed, you  must  keep  it  if  you  have  to  make  a 
pint  at  a  time  in  a  quart  cup  even,  as  you  easily  can 
ifyou  understand  it,  and  it  positively  must  be  al- 
ways good,  always  tip-top,  ifyou  expect  to  build  up 
a  trade,  and  it  can't  be  if  you  make  it  once  a  day, 
in  the  morning,  and  keep  it  all  day  and  night;  for 
the  goodness  of  it  is  its  smoothness  and  creaminess, 
but  that  gets  away  when  the  cream  is  kept  long 
Water  in  freezing  will  separate  from  everything 
else,  so  that  you  get  clear  ice  out  of  muddy  rivers, 
and  the  water  part  of  vinegar  will  treeze  and  leave 
the  acid  part  by  itself  in  the  center  of  the  barrel; 
just  that  way  your  cream  first  gets  grains  of  clear  ice 
in  it  like  sand,  and  by  night  your  customers  find 
rough  chunks  as  big  as  pipe  stems.  For  the  very 
same  reasons  good  cream  cannot  be  made  by  letting 
it  stand  and  freeze  itself.    It  wants  rapid  work. 

QUICK  FREEZINO. 

Now,  Johnny,  you  begin  right.  Get  you  a  stout 
oaken  box  bound  with  hoop  iron  ifyou  can,  to  pound 
the  ice  small  in.  It  will  prove  the  cheapest  way  in 
the  long  run,  for  you  must  pound  the  ice  small  to 
do  quick  freezing  and  cheap,  and  no  way  beats 
pounding  it  with  an  old  axe  head  in  a  deep  box. 
You  may  turn  your  freezer  two  hours  and  do  no 
good  if  it  has  only  Isrge  lumps  of  ice  just  touching  it 
with  their  edges.  It  is  the  salt  acting  on  the  ice 
and  releasing  the  cold  by  melting  it  that  causes  your 
cream  to  freeze  and  the  quicker  the  melting  takes 
place  through  thorough  mixing  of  salt  in  fine  ice  the 
quicker  your  cream  is  done,  and  coarse  salt  is  bet 
ter  than  fine  because  it  won't  pack  in  dead  lumps, 
and  because  it  grinds  the  ice  away.  We  are  not 
caring  for  strict  science,  only  for  the  effects  as  they 
appear.  So  the  quickest  possible  freezing  is  done 
with  snow  and  ice  mixed  together.  And,  Johnny, 
don't  you  remember  how  snorting  mad  you  used  to 
be  when  I  would  come  down  on  you  for  about  tw« 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


25 


Beconds  while  you  was  see  sawing  away  at  Ihatfreez^ 
er  and  say  "why  in  thunder  don't  yru  let  the  salt 
water  out?" — and  when  I  came  again  and  found  the 
water  out  it  was  "what  in  thunder  did  yi>u  let  all 
the  water  out  for?" 

Well,  Johnny,  I  have  no  meringues  in  the  oven 
DOW  and  I'll  stop  to  explain.  Your  cream  never 
freezes  much  except  where  the  brine  of  the  melted 
ice  and  salt  touches  the  freezer,  as  the  brine  rises 
•rtside  you  will  find  the  freezing  mark  rises  inside; 
but  when  there  gets  to  be  too  much  water  the  ice  ri- 
ses and  floats  and  the  bottom  of  the  freez?r  b  g'ns 
to  melt  agiin.  You  want  to  keep  letting  out  a  little 
water  from  the  bung-hole  near  the  bottom  of  the 
freezing  tub  but  not  too  much,  and  always  keep  push 
ingand  packing  the  ice  down  arourd  the  freezer  to 
keep  it  solid  and  touching  both  bottom  and  sides.  In 
this  way  you  can  do  freezing  in  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  better  than  in  two  hours.  The  amount  of 
salt  you  want  is  about  one  bucket  of  salt  to  five  of 
broken  ice.  Half  fill  your  freezing  tub  with  ice 
first,  then  begin  putting  in  scoopfuls  of  salt  with  the 
ice,  and  it  will  work  itself  down.  Always  finish  cfi 
the  top  with  a  layer  of  salt.  Don't  you  see  now 
what  an  idiot  you  was  not  to  understand  these  little 
things,  and  the  quality  of  the  cream  for  two  hundred 
high-toners  depending  on  your  ignorance?  In  order 
to  get  the  little  brine  sometimes  in  the  dead  of  win- 
ter when  everything  was  too  cold  I  have  had  to  pour 
hot  water  on  the  ice  in  the  freezing  tub  to  start  it. 
These  points  apply  to  all  sorts  of  freezers  that  use 
ice  and  salt.  The  noted  cooks  across  the  sea  who 
nvented  some  of  the  fine  ices  that  you  are  going  to 
make  after  awhile  Johnny,  never  patronized  our 
new  patent  freezers  but  did  and  perhaps  still  do  their 
fine  work  with  the  old  kind  turned  by  hand. 

CBEAM  AND   ITS  SUBSTITUTES. 

And,  Johnny,  you  don't  need  real  cream  so  much 
as  you  need  a  thorough  beating.  If  a  man  that  knew 
how  was  to  open  next  door  in  opposition  toyou  he  might 
take  milk  and  you  might  take  cream,  and  soon  you 
would  hear  customers  say  "ah,  the  cream  next  door 
is  the  best,  it  certainly  must  be  made  of  the  purest 
cream,  you  can  taste  it,  it  is  so  rich!"  when  in  fact 
it  would  be  its  foamy  smoothness  and  delicacy  that 
gave  them  the  impression,  while  your  real  cream 
would  be  coarse  with  grains  of  ice,  and  heavy  with 
sugar.  It  does  not  make  nearly  so  much  difference 
how  you  make  your  cream  as  how  you  freeze  it  and 
keep  it.  Why  you  may  take  a  sweet  water  ice,  es- 
pecially a  white  cherry  ice,  or  a  peach  ice  \7ill  do, 
some  kind  with  the  sweet  pulp  mashed  in  it,  and 
make  it  according  to  disectiens  it  will  be  so  white, 


so  soft  and  foamy,  and  will  increiee  in  bulk  so  much 
it  can't  be  told  from  cream  except  by  melting  which 
I  want  to  say  shows  that  it  isn't  the  cream  itsel 
that  makes  the  quality,  since  sweetened  fruit  juice 
will  do  so  well,  and  better  yet  if  mixed  with  cream 
like  our  cherries  in  cream  some  way  back,  but  ttie 
method.  So  having  prepared  your  cream,  custard, 
or  sherbet  put  it  in  a  freezer  large  enough  to  hold 
twice  as  much  and  strive  to  make  the  ice  fill  the 
freezer  when  done. 

The  greatest  help  but  not  the  only  material  for 
the  purpope  is  seme  raw  but  light-beaten  white  of 
eggs.  The  Freuch  cooks,  some  of  them,  use  what 
they  call  Italian  meringue,  which  is  aboiiing  sugar 
yrup  made  of  six  runces  of  sugar,  poured  into  four 
whites  well  whipped.  If  anyone  who  has  tri  d  has 
fuund  a  difference  in  effect  between  that  and  the  raw 
whites  I  will  not  gainsay  their  word,  but,  Johnny,  y  u 
will  find  the  shorter  way  good  enough  and  it  saves  su- 
gar from  wl  at  'm  already  generally  too  sweet.  So  when 
your  ice  is  frozon  mix  in  the  whipped  whites,  and  if 
it  is  a  patent  f.eezer  turn  it  as  fast  as  you  can  til 
y  u  see  the  white  ice  forcing  its  way  out  at  the  freezf 
er  lid.  That  is  if  you  want  that  sort,  but  if  it  is  on- 
ly a  demi-glace  leave  out  the  whites,  like  the  pink 
part  of  our  Niagara  ices,  where  the  white  desiccated 
cocoanut  can  be  seen  powdered  all  through  as  it 
could  not  be  if  the  sherbet  was  beaten  to  whiteness 
with  egg. 

SAVE   THE   SUGAR 

And  don't  make  the  mistake  tf  using  too  much  su- 
gar. You  must  make  a  profit,  and  sugar  is  an  ex 
pease  in  two  ways,  in  its  cost  at  first  and  then  in 
ice  and  salt  for  the  more  sugar^  in  your  creim  the 
more  ice  it  will  take  to  freeze  it.  This  you  know  is 
for  common,  though  you  want  to  be  posted  for  fan- 
cy work  too.  When  you  go  to  Boston  or  Philadel- 
phia, Johnny,  you'll  find  them  advertising  "Vieina 
ices,"  bombes,  bisquitsglacees,  etc.  If  made  "accord- 
icg  to  Hoyle"  these  Vienna  ices  have  a  pound  of  su- 
gar in  every  quart  of  rich  cream,  and  the  rule  for 
fruit  ices  is  a  pound  and  a  half  to  a  quart.  Just 
think  of  it — a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  in  two 
cupfuls  of  thick  cream,  and  the  fruit  ices  and  sor 
be!  s  all  syrups  heavier  than  soda  syrups.  When 
these  are  well  frozen  they  are  more  of  frozen  con- 
fectioneries, or  candies  made  by  cold  instead  of 
heat  then  they  are  light  refreshments.  They  are  in- 
tended to  be  shaped  in  moulds  and  to  have  a  good 
deal  of  solidity.  Your  rule  for  common  ice-cream 
should  be  not  more  than  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
each  quart  of  milk  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  to 
each  quart  of  fruit  ice  or  sherbet,  and  Johnny, 
though  I  would  not  write  it  so  in  a  receipt  for  any- 


26 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


body,  for  it  might  seem  stingy,  between  you  and  me 
I  think  six  ounces  ot  sugar  to  eaoh  quart  of  milk  is 
enough  for  the  ice-cream  that  is  only  a  light  refresh- 
ment that  people  may  oat  plenty  of  without  hurting 
themselves.  They  don't  want  food,  but  frozen  per- 
fume. 

I  got  a  lesson  in  popular  ice-cream  making  when 
I  was  a  boy  that  has  lasted  me  for  comparison  of 
different  fellows*  wajs  ever  since,  at  a  gaily  decora 
ted  tent  at  New  Orleans,  on  the  levee  and  facicg 
Tchoupitoulas  f  treet,  where  their  cream  was  sold 
as  fast  as  tickets  for  a  circus,  handed  cut  in  glasses 
piled  high,  three  or  four  colors  and  flavors,  and  as 
many  men  freezing  and  beating,  and  as  many  more 
gelling  and  forever  yelling  out,  "Come  up  with  an 
other  freezer  on  the  red,"  and  "como  up  with  an- 
other freezer  on  the  yaller."  Their  cream  was 
light,  and  cheap  and  plentiful.  It  was  late  ia  May, 
and  all  the  iee  they  need  had  come  in  ship  loads 
from  the  north.  They  didn't  sit  down  and  see-saw 
and  Johnny,  I  don't  think  they  used  over  six  ounces 
of  sugar  to  a  quart.  But  they  had  fine  flavorings, 
and  you  donH  think  they  had  any  real  cream  or 
wanted  any,  do  you? 

ANi'IBILIOUS    ICE-CBEAM. 

And  you  need  not  go  into  bankruptcy  either 
merely  because  the  big  hotels  are  getting  what  little 
cream  there  is  to  be  had  and  you  can  get  none. 
They  don't  even  get  enough  for  coffee,  after  all. 
Some  restaurant  keepers  buy  the  milk,  skim  it  for 
the  cream  and  trust  to  selling  off  the  skimmed  milk 
or  part  of  it,  so  as  to  get  their  pure  cream  for  freez- 
ing not  soured  and  mouldy  as  country  gathered 
cream  often  is,  but  that  plan  is  not  practicable  for 
ice-cream  for  thousands  at  a  resort.  Besides,  who 
wants  cream?  you  see  these  reeorts  getting  more 
crowded  every  year  and  more  hotels  and  Iwirger  ones 
being  built,  and  that  shows  that  the  people  find  it 
pleasant  living  at  them,  but  they  wouldn't  if  they 
had  the  blues  and  felt  tired  and  drowsy  all  the  time 
as  they  would  be  if  they  were  made  bilious  and  dys- 
peptic with  double  cream  and  sugar.  There  is  noth- 
ing 30  bad  for  the  health  and  spirits  as  real  buttery 
cream  taken  at  the  end  of  a  full  meal.  Let  the  count, 
ry  people  who  have  nothing  to  do  but  sleep  eat  the 
cream,  but  you  give  the  resorters  light  refreshment 
and  if  your  wares  are  well  made  they  will  come 
again  after  they  have  walked  and  danced  and  rolled 
ten  pins. 

GELATINE  IN  CBEAM. 

It  is  reckoned  quite  a  triclr  too,  to  put  gelatine  in 
your  milk  cr  boiled  custard  aod  gelatine  is  nice 
enough  as  f«r  as  that  goes,  but  somehow,  John- 
ny,  I  find  myself  always  letting  it  alone,  though  I 
don't  know  what  T  might  do  in  compe  ition  with 
others.  Gelatine  gives  body  to  the  mi? k  and  makes 
it  BO  it  can  be  beaten  up  mo^e  light  and  fio'hy  and 
the  cream  with  ge'atine  in  will  not  melt  down  so 
quickly.    It  is  a  good  enough  rule  to  use  gelatine 


in  milk  and  white  of  eggs  in  water  ices,  punches  and 
so  forth.  The  effect  cf  both  articles  is  about  the 
same,  but  gelatine  is  the  most  irjuble  But  you 
have  to  be  very  careful  ab  !ut  the  quantity  of  gela- 
tine used  for  if  you  don't  look  out  it  will  set  your 
cnam  like  b'anc-mange  or  jelly.  One  ounce  to  three 
quarts  is  the  highest  you  can  use,  and  it  must  be 
well  dissolved  in  warm  Uiilk  before  putting  in. 

OBDINABY  ICE-Cr  EAM. 

You  will  see  some  ice-cream  makers  put  raw  yolks 
of  eggs  in  the  cream  because,  they  have  found  that 
cooking  the  eggs  in  it  destroys  the  frothing  quality. 
I  dont  like  that  either,  and  I  compromise  by  making 
a  boiled  sarch  custard  with  scant  one  ounce  of 
8  arch  to  each  quart  of  milk,  and  beating  two  or 
three,  or  at  most  four  yolks  to  a  quart  light  in  a 
deep  pan  and  pouring  the  scaMing  custard  to  them 
which  h)lf  cooks  the  yolks  and  makes  a  custard 
that  can  be  churned  to  a  froth  if  wanted. 


When  you  make  a  custard  that  way  it  saves  ice  to 
cook  only  half  the  milk  with  all  the  enriching  ingre- 
dients in  and  pour  the  other  half  cold  to  it  after- 
wards. When  you  boil  milk  always  boil  the  sugar 
in  it,  and  that  will  prevent  scorching  on  the  bottom. 
Now,  Johnny,  brace  up  and  go  to'wrrk,  and  when 
you  get  as  far  as  moulding  ice  creams  for  party  din- 
ners we  will  talk  again.  But  that  heavy  iron  scrap- 
er you  have  got  made  by  a  blacksmith  is  notjirui table, 
people  of  fine  perceptions  c^n  taste  iron  in  cream,  be- 
sides you  are  liable  to  drive  it  through  the  bottom 
of  your  freezer  and  spoil  all.  The  largest  size  flexi- 
ble palette  knife  is  the  best  thing  to  loosen  the  fro- 
zen cream  from  the. sides  of  your  old  fashioned 
freezer,  and  for  the  beating  up  of  the  cream  make 
jourself  a  paddle  of  hard  wood  as  long  as  a  spade, 
but  light  and  narrow;  one  that  you  can  stand  up 
wi  h  and  have  a  good  hold  on  to  churn  and  beat 
with  both  hands. 

FLAVOKINO 

Lemon  and  vanilla  are  the  common  popular  flavors 
and  lemon  is  the  commonest  of  the  two.  Ui-e  of 
them  about  a  large  basting  spoonful  of  the  extract  to 
each  gallon  of  cream,  remembering,  however,  that 
there  is  the  common,  the  doub'e  and  the  triple  extract 
of  which  latter  of  course  less  ought  to  do.  "  hen  you 
get  to  doing  a  big  business  you  will  have  the  pleasure 
of  offering  yijur  customers  acho'ca  of  as  many  flavors 
of  cream  as  there  are  of  soda  syrups.  But  all 
flavors  except  lemon  and  vanilla  must  be  used  very 
sparingly,  a  teaspoonful  of  pineapple,  strawberry, 
pear  and  the  like  generally  being  as  good  as  a  large 
spoonful  of  the  otho'-s,  and  of  rose  extr  ict  a  few 
drops  may  do.  Most  of  the  flavorings  excepting 
lemon,  vanilla,  rose,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg  are 
made  from  orris  root  and  butyric  ether — which  is 
obtained  from  rancid  butter — and  there  is  no  won- 
der if  the  popular  taste  approves  of  them  only  in 
very  small  allowances. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


27 


86.        Frozen  Nesselrode  Pudding. 

Glace  Nesselrode  or  iced  pudding,  A  frozen  cus- 
tard made  of  pounded  chestnuts,  with  fruit  and  fla- 
vorings : 

1  pound  of  large  chestnuts — about  40. 

1  pint  of  rich  boiled  custard. 

1  cup  sweet  cream. 

2  ounces  citron. 

2  ounces  sultana  raisins. 

2  ounces  stewed  pineapple. 

i  cupful  of  maraschino. 

1  teaspoon  vanilla  extract. 

Pinch  of  salt  in  the  chestnut  pulp. 

Slit  the  shells  of  the  chestnuts,  boil  them  half  an 
hour,  peel  clean,  and  pound  the  nuts  to  a  paste,  and 
rub  it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  moistening  with 
cream.  Then  mix  it  with  the  boiled  custard.  Freeze 
this  mixture,  and  when  firm  whip  the  cup  of  cream, 
and  stir  it  in  and  freeze  again.  Then  add  the  citron 
cut  in  shreds,  the  stewed  or  candied  pineapple,  like- 
wise the  raisins,  maraschino,  and  vanilla  extract. 
Beat  up  and  freeze  again,  and  either  serve  in  ice 
cream  plates  out  of  the  freezer,  or  pack  the  cream 
in  a  mold,  and  when  well  frozen  send  to  table 
whole,  turned  out  of  the  mold  on  to  a  folded  napkin 
on  a  di£h. 

The  foregoing  makes  about  enough  to  fill  one  of 
those  brick  molds  that  have  a  large  and  deep 
stamped  fruit  pattern  in  the  lid  and  when  frozen 
firm  it  can  be  sliced  into  from  12  to  16  portions. 
When  chestnut!  are  not  convenient  some  of  the  large 
cafes  use  the  ready  prepared  pounded  aUnonds  or 
walnuts  that  may  be  bought  by  the  can  at  the  con- 
fectioners' supply  stores,  and  various  additions  or 
substitutions  of  green  candied  fruits  are  employed  to 
make  a  handsome  appearing  compound  without 
changing  its  general  character  Should  be  trebled  in 
quantity  for  dinner  for  fifty. 

See  No.  320  for  another  variety  recently  added, 
but  crowded  out  of  place. 


87, 


Diplomatic  Ice  Pudding. 


1  quart  of  rich  vanilla  custard. 
1  pint  thick  cream. 

1  cupful  of  French  candied  pineapple  and  cherries, 
cut  small. 

2  dozen  lady  fingers. 

Freeze  the  custard  as  usual  for  ice  cream;  whip  the 
cream,  put  it  in  and  freeze  again. 

Take  two  brick  molds  and  put  in  a  layer  of  the 
ice  cream,  a  layer  of  lady  fingers,  then  some  candied 
fruit,  and  fill  the  mold  that  way,  having  ice  cream 
for  the  top  layer.  Close  with  paper  and  the  lid,  and 
put  in  the  freezing  mixture  to  stay  two  or  three 
hours.  Manage  fhe  same  way  as  Neapolitan  and 
Nesselrode. 


88. 


Bonanza  Punch. 


Our  own  Rocky  Mountain  punch   as  made  for 
hotel  dinners  for  two  hundred  and  fifty. 
10  quarts  of  water. 
9  pounds  of  sugar. 
2  dozen  lemons. 
6  oranges. 
2  cans  of  pineapple. 
1  pint  of  gin. 

1  quart  bottle  of  champagne. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  6  of  the  lemons  and  4  oran- 
ges into  a  bowl,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all.  Put 
on  about  2  quarts  of  water,  with  a  lot  of  sugar  in, 
and  the  pineapple  juice,  making  a  hot  syrup  of  it, 
and  then  pour  it  to  the  grated  rinds  and  juice  in  the 
bowl  to  draw  the  flavor.  Strain  into  the  freezer, 
chop  the  pineapple  and  put  in,  add  all  the  rest  of 
the  sugar  and  water,  gin  and  champagne,  color  it 
pink  and  freeze. 

89.       The  Same,  Reduced  for  Fifty. 

2i  quarts  of  water. 

2  pounds  of  sugar, 

6  lemons.  . 

2  oranges. 

1  small  can  of  pineapple, 
i  cupful  of  gin. 

1  cupful  of  champagne  or  sweet  wine. 
Grate  the  rinds  of  2  lemons  and  1  orange,  and 
proceed  as  above  directed. 


90. 


Kirsch  Punch.    Bomaine. 


2  quarts  of  water. 

3  pounds  of  sugar. 

4  lemons — juice  only. 

1  pint  of  kirschwasser. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Mix  the  punch  materials  together  cold ;  strain  into 
the  freezer.  When  nearly  frozen  whip  the  8  whites 
firm,  mix  in  and  freeze  again. 


91. 


Regent's  Punch. 


1  quart  of  water. 

1  pint  of  gin. 

2  lemons. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  pint  of  maraschino — or  half  as  much  kirsch. 

4  bottles  of  soda  water. 

Grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  into  a  bowl,  moisten 
with  some  gin  and  rub  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  to 
extract  the  flavor.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  rest  of 
the  ingredients  except  the  soda;  strain  into  the 
freezer  and  freeze  as  firm  as  the  spirit  in  it  will  al- 
low, add  the  bottled  soda  and  finish  the  freezing. 


28 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY.  COOK. 


92. 


Victoria  Punch. 


6  or  8  oranges — according  to  size. 
12  lemons. 

3  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  quarts  of  water. 

1  pint  of  angelica  or  other  sweet  win;. 

i  pint  of  rum. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  half  the  lemons  into  a  bowl, 
add  the  rum,  and  rub  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  to 
extract  the  flavor.  Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all 
the  fruit,  add  the  other  ingredients  and  freeze. 
Then  whip  the  whites,  stir  in,  beat  up  and  freeze 
again. 


93 


Cardinal  Punch. 


A  survival  of  the  old-time  spiced  wine  called 
"bishop;"  the  same  was  called  cardinal  when  made 
with  the  best  of  red  wine.  The  specialty  about  it  is 
in  roasting  the  oranges  either  before  or  over  the  fire, 
and  letting  them  steep  in  good  red  wine,  which,  when 
thus  flavored,  is  used  either  hot  or  cold.  If  to  be 
frozen  take 

1  quart  of  wine  jelly  (calPs  foot  or  gelatine.) 

1  quart  of  claret  or  any  good  red  wine. 

1  quart  of  port. 

1  quart  of  water. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 
4  oranges. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  whole  cloves. 

Bake  the  oranges  brown  on  a  plate  in  the  oven. 
Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water  with 
the  cloves  in  it,  drop  the  baked  oranges  into  it,  add 
the  wine  and  let  remain  until  cold.  Cut  the  oranges 
and  press  them  for  the  juice,  and  strain  the  punch 
into  the  freezer.  Add  the  jelly  (or  white  of  eggs  for 
a  substitute)  and  freeze.  If  in  season  for  red  rasp- 
berry juice  add  some  for  brighter  color. 


93a. 


Angelica  Punch. 


2  cups  California  Angelica  wine. 

2  cups  hot  water — a  pint. 

1  cup  sugar — J  pound. 

1  cup  stemmed  raisins — J  pound. 

1  lemon. 

2  whites  of  eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar  to  beat  in. 

Chop  the  raisins,  grate  half  the  rind  of  the  lemon, 
squeeze  in  all  of  the  juice,  pour  the  hot  water  to 
them,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  until  it  is  all  dissolved. 
Strain  the  flavored  syrup  thus  obtained  into  a 
freezer,  and  rub  the  most  of  the  raisin  pulp  through 
as  well.  Add  the  wine  and  freeze.  When  nearly 
frozen  whip  the  two  whites  and  the  powdered  sugar 
together  till  thick,  add  them  to  the  punch  and  finish 
freezing.    It  is  like  cream.     Serve  in  stem  glasses. 


93b. 


Bisque  Ice  Creams* 


Ice  creams  with  a  proportion  of  the  pulp  of 
pounded  fruit  or  nuts  added  are  termed  bisques, 

93c.  Bisque  of  Pineapple  Ice  Cream. 

1  can  pineapple  or  |  pound. 

2  cups  sugar. 
4  cups  cream. 

Chop  the  pineapple  small  and  put  it  in  a  bright 
pan  or  kettle  with  the  sugar  and  a  few  spoonfnls  of 
juice  or  water  to  dissolve  the  sugar  to  S)Tup.  Sim- 
mer at  the  side  of  the  range  a  short  time. 

Whip  the  cream  till  it  is  half  froth,  then  freeze  it 
first  by  itself,  because  the  pineapple  added  before 
freezing  has  a  tendency  to  curdle  it.  Pound  the 
pineapple  and  syrup  through  a  colander,  mix  it  with 
the  partly  frozen  cream,  and  freeze  again. 

It  can  and  ought  to  be  managed  to  have  the  pine- 
apple in  syrup  prepared  beforehand  to  be  cold.  In 
making  these  bisques  it  is  not  best  to  pound  the 
fruit  perfectly  fine,  but  the  small  pieces  about  like 
grains  of  wheat  should  be  perceptible  and  show  that 
the  creams  are  mixed  with  fruits  and  not  merely 
flavored. 

93d.     Bisque  of  Preserved  Ginger. 

i  pound  of  either  preserved  or  candied  ginger. 

i  cup  sugar. 

Juice  of  one  lemon. 

4  cups  of  cream. 

Cut  tfie  candied  ginger  into  very  small  pieces. 
Make  a  hot  syrup  of  the  sugar  with  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  water  and  squeeze  the  lemon  into  it,  then  put  in 
the  ginger  and  let  it  soften  and  impart  the  flavor  to 
the  syrup.  Put  the  cream  and  ginger  and  syrup  all 
together,  freeze  and  beat  up. 


93c. 


Apricot  Ice. 


3  cupfuls  of  apricots  cut  in  pieces. 

1  cupful  of  sugar — Bounces. 

2  cupfuls  of  water. 

The  kernels  of  half  the  apricots. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

The  ripest  and  sweetest  apricots,  if  the  fresh  fruit 
be  used,  should  be  kept  out,  one  cupful  to  be  mixed 
in  the  ice  when  finished. 

Stew  the  other  two  cupfuls  and  the  peeled  kernels 
in  the  water  and  sugar  for  a  few  minutes,  rub 
the  fruit  then  with  the  back  of  a  spoon,  through  a 
strainer  into  the  freezer  along  with  the  syrup. 
Freeze  like  ice  cream  and  when  it  is  nearly  finished 
whip  the  two  whites  to  a  firm  froth,  mix  them  in  and 
turn  the  freezer  rapidly  a  short  time  longer.  Stir  in 
the  cut  apricots  just  before  serving.  Canned  apri- 
cots can  be  used  as  well,  and  if  in  sjrrup  that  can  be 
mixed  in  also. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


29 


Cumberland  Ices 

Red  cherry  ice  with  nut  cream.  Two  freezers  re- 
quired. 

94.  Red  Cherry  Ice. 

4  pints  of  sweet  red  or  black  cherries. 

2  pints  ff water. 

IJ  pounds  of  sugar. 

M»!sh  the  fruit  raw  and  thoroughly  so  as  to  break 
the  stones,  and  strain  the  juice  through  a  fin«  strain- 
er into  the  freezer.  Boil  the  cherry  pulp  with  some 
of  the  sugar  and  water  to  extract  the  flavor  from 
the  kernels,  and  ma?h  that  also  through  the  strain, 
er,  add  the  other  pint  of  water  and  the  sugar  and 
freeze.  Use  no  egg  whites  and  only  beat  the  ice 
enough  to  make  it  even  and  smooth, 

95.  Hickory  Nut  Ice  Cream. 

1  pound  of  either  pecan  or  hickory  nut    kernels. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  quart  of  rich  milk  or  cream. 

1  tablespconful  of  burnt  sugar  coloring. 

Pick  over  the  kernels  carefully  that  there  be  no 
fragments  of  shells  to  make  the  cream  gritty,  then 
pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  part  of  the  sugar  and 
&  few  spoonfuls  of  milk  or  other  fluid.  Only  a  few 
can  be  pounded  efiectually  at  a  time.  Mix  the  milk 
with  the  pulp  thus  obtained,  the  rest  of  the  sugar 
and  caramel  coloring  enough  to  make  it  like  coffee 
and  cream,  and  run  it  through  a  strainer  into  the 
freezer. 

Freeze  it  as  usual  and  beat  smooth  with  the  pad- 
dle, then  pack  down  with  more  ice  to  freeze  firm. 

Line  the  moulds  with  the  cherry  ice  and  fill  the 
middle  with  the  cream,  or,  dish  the  ice  as  a  bord- 
er in  shallow  glasses  with  the  cream  piled  in  the 
center. 


Oape  May  Ices. 
Burnt  almond  ice-cream  and  orange  ice. 
96.    Almond  Bisque. 

Take  1  pound  of  sugar. 

12  ounces  of  sweet  almonds. 

2  ounces  of  bitter  almonds. 

Blanch  the  almonds,  split  them  and  put  them  in 
a  slack  oven  to  dry  and  acquire  a  light  yellow  col- 
or. Put  the  sugar  in  a  kettle  on  the  fire  without 
any  water  and  stir  it  till  it  is  all  melted  and  of  the 
color  of  go'den  syrup  or  light  molasses.  Then  put 
in  the  hot  almonds,  stir  gently  to  mix,  and  pour  the 
candy  on  to  a  large  platter. 

When  cold  pound  the  candy  quite  fine,  put  it  in- 
to 3  pints  of  rich  milk,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  when  it 
boils  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  10  eggs.      Strain  the 


burnt  almond  custard  thus  made  into  a  freezer  and 
freeze  as  usual  and  beat  light, 

97.   Orange  Ice. 

3  pints  of  water. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

5  or  6  oranges  according  to  size. 

1  lemon,  juice  only,  if  the  oranges  are  sweet. 

4  whites  of  e  gs. 

Make  a  thick  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  very  little 
wa<er.  Peel  half  the  oranges,  divide  l hem  each  in 
12  or  more  by  pulling  apart  by  the  natural  divis- 
ions and  drop  i  he  pieces  of  orange  in  the  boiling 
syrup.  Grate  the  yellow  zest  of  the  other  3  oran- 
ges into  a  bowl  and  squeeze  in  the  juice,  then  pour 
the  syrup  from  < he  scalded  orange  slices  a^so  into 
the  bowl  through  a  strainer  and  keep  the  pieces  on 
ice  to  be  mixed  in  at  the  last.  Add  the  water  and 
lemon  jnice  to  the  orange  syrup  io  the  bowl,  strain 
and  freeze.  Beat  in  the  whipped  whites  as  usual 
and  when  finished  stir  in  the  sugared  fruit. 

This  ice  is  cream-white,  tinged  with  the  orange 
zet  and  juice. 

Use  the  burnt  almond  cream  for  the  oatside  and 
fill  with  the  orange  ice. 


98.       Chocolate  Ice  Oream 


Use  only  3  or  4  ounces  of  the  common  unsweete 
ened  chocolate  to  a  gallon  of  cream  or  boiled  cus- 
tard. Chocolate  cream  is  generally  too  strongly  fla- 
vored for  the  majority.  The  foreign  vanilla  chocolate 
s  about  ha' f  sugar  and  more  of  course  can  be  used. 
Boil  the  chocolate  in  some  milk  with  sugar  added, 
strain  it  into  the  cream  and  flavor  with  vanilla  be- 
sides. Beat  the  ice  cream  to  make  it  bright  and 
rich  colored.  Melted  chocolate  cannot  be  mixed  at 
once  in  cold  cream,  as  it  sets  and  makes  trouble,  it 
must  be  considerably  diluted  first. 


99. 


Coffee  Ice  Oream. 


Make  with  pure  sweet  cream  only,  and  1  pint  of 
very  strong  clear  coffee  to  3  quarts.  Sugar  as  usu- 
al— 8  ounces  to  a  quart.  The  best  coffee  for  this 
purpose  is  made  by  steeping  coarsely  ground  coffee 
in  cold  water  over  night  and  not  boiling  it  at  all. 
Hot  coffee  from  the  urn  will  answer  if  taken  when 
fresh  made  and  not  inky. 


and  Maraschino  Ice  Creams. 


Curacoa 
lOO.  

For  combinations  with  strawberry  and  pineapple 
ices.    Use  a  cupful  of  curacoa  to  3  qua^^ts  of  cream 


30 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


or  custard.  Coif  r  the  cream  cafe-au-lait  witli  2  oun- 
ces of  sugar  burnt  to  the  color  of  golden  syrup  and 
then  dissolved  in  milk.  Beat  the  ice  cream  to  make 
it  gold  color.  Use  the  same  proportion  of  mara- 
schino in  pure  cream  and  beat  the  ice  cream  to 
whiteness, 


lOl. 


Strawberry  Ice. 


2  quarts  of  strawberries — red  ripe  and  sweet. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  pints  of  water. 

Cover  the  strawberries  with  the  sugar  and  let 
them  remain  some  time  to  fyrm  a  thick  red  syrup 
Pick  out  a  few  of  the  berries  to  be  mixed  in  the  ice 
St  last.  Rub  the  rest  through  a  strainer  into  the 
freezer  with  the  syrup  and  add  the  water.  Freeze 
without  much  beating  if  a  crimson  ice  is  wanted,  and 
add  coloring  if  necessary.  Throw  the  reserved  ber- 
ries on  top  of  the  strawberry  ice  in  the  freezer  and 
mix  them  in  when  the  ice  is  to  be  served. 


lO^. 


Currant  Ice. 


Make  currant  water  ice  the  same  as  the  strawber- 
ry ice  preceding,  except  that  no  whole  fruit  need 
be  saved  out.  Cooked  or  canned  currants  are  not 
suitable,  being  too  gelatinous  and  of  poor  color,  and 
only  the  best  and  ripest  of  the  fresh  fruit  should  b 
employed  for  this  purpose.  The  most  luscious  cur- 
rants do  not  grow  in  America. 

103.  

The  hotel  pastry  cook  has  very  little  need  of  arti- 
ficial coloring.  The  rich  colors  of  the  various  fruits 
n  their  season  may  be  preserved  with  but  slight 
^rouble  by  taking  the  surplus  ju*ces  and  boiling 
them  with  plenty  of  sugar,  often  in  the  same  kettle 
the  fruit  was  cooked  in  for  pie^,  and  straining  the 
syrup  into  botiUs.  Such  syrups  will  keep  a  long 
time  and  while  the  writer  is  well  aware  that  any 
elaborate  process  of  the  sort  would  never  be  put  in 
practice  in  hotel  work,  he  can  recommend  the 
seizing  upon  such  things  as  come  to  hand  this  way 
as  positive  labor-saving  expedients.  A  bottle  of 
strawberry  or  raspberry  syrup  put  away  at  an  odd 
time  comes  splendidly  in  place  to  mix  with  a  freezer 
of  cream  in  the  winter  or  spring. 


104.    Strawberry  Ice  Oream. 

2  quarts  of  strawberries — red  ripe  and  sweet. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  quarts  of  cream. 

Cover  the  fruit  with  the  sugar  and  mash  them 
together  and  rub  the  fruit  and  syrup  through  a 
seive  into  a  bowl,  adding  a  cupful  of  water  to  the 
pulp  at  last. 

Half  freeze  the  cream  by  itself  and  then  add  the 
strawberry  syrup  and  finish  the  freezing  as  usual. 


105. 


Pineapple  loe. 


2  cans  of  pineapple. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  quarts  of  water. 

6  or  8  whites  of  eggs. 

Strain  the  juice  from  the  cans  into  the  freezer. 
Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  1  quart  of 
water  and  throw  in  the  pieces  of  pineapple  previously 
crt  in  large  d'ce.  Let  boil  a  few  minutes  and  then 
strain  the  flavored  syrup  algo  iuto  the  freezer.  Add 
the  other  quart  of  water  and  freeze.  Strew  some  eu- 
gar  over  the  pieces  of  pineapple  and  set  them  on  ice. 
When  the  syrup  is  nearly  fiozen  add  some  red  fruit 
juice  or  coloring  to  make  it  rose  pnk,  and  the 
whipped  whites,  beat  and  freeze  again.  Throw  the 
pieces  of  pineapple  on  top,  cover  down  and  let  re- 
main till  time  to  serve,  then  mix  them  in. 

The  canned  pineapple  is  generally  riper  and 
sweeter  than  the  fresh  fruit  that  is  sent  to  Northern 
markets.  When  the  latter  is  used  it  should  be  cut 
up,  have  hot  syrup  poured  over  and  allowed  to  steep 
till  cold.  Two  cans  contain  about  1^  pounds  of 
pineapple.  The  juice  of  1  or  2  lem  ns  is  sometimes 
added  to  a  pineapple  ice  when  the  fruit  is  very 
sweet. 


Pineapple  Water  Ice  or  Sherbet. 
lOO.  

The  same  proportions  as  the  preceding  receipt 

Chop  the  pineapple  small,  scald  it  in  the  boiling 
syrup,  then  pound  it  through  a  strainer  with  the 
syrup  and  remaining  quirt  of  water  into  a  freezer. 
Freeze,  add  4  whites  of  eggs  and  beat  it  perfectly 
white. 


lOT.    Pineapple  Ice  Oream. 

Make  the  same  as  directed  in  the  preceding  t&> 
ceipt  with  2  quarts  of  rich  cream  instead  of  water, 
and  use  no  eggs.  Pineapple  syrup  or  pulp  poured 
in'o  cream  will  immediately  curdle  it.  The  cream 
must  be  nearly  frozen  first  and  then  the  pineapple 
added  to  it  and  the  freezing  finished. 

Frozen  Cocoanut  Custard  or  Oocoanut 
108.  Ice  Cream. 

3  quarts  of  milk. 

18  ounces  of  sugar. 

15  yolks  of  eggH. 

1  pound  of  desiccated  cocoanut — the  sugared  kind 
free  from  oil  and  rancidity  is  best. 

Make  the  custard  as  usual  and  stir  in  the  cocoa, 
nut  while  it  is  still  warm  after  straining.  Freeze  and 
beat  as  usual.  A  little  lemon  or  orange  flavoring 
can  be  added. 

The  ordinary  ice  cream  or  starch  custard  can  be 
u3ed  the  same  way  as  well. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


31 


lOO.       Concord  Grape  Ice. 


A  reddish  purple,  useful  for  combinations  and  for 
Neapolitan  or  tri  colored  ices. 

4  ounces  of  ripe  Concord  grapes — a  cupful. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  quait  of  wafer. 

Juice  of  one  lemon. 

Mi>-h  »he  graprs  and  sugar  together  raw,  add  the 
lemon  Juice  and  water,  strain  into  a  freez  r  with 
all  the  pulp  obtainable,  and  freeze  at  once.  The  ice 
becomes  lighter  colored  the  more  it  is  beiten.  The 
lemon  juice  he'ps  to  brighten  it.  The  grapes  should 
not  be  scalded  or  cooked. 


no. 


Wild  Plum  Ice. 


As  good  in  its  turn  as  pineapple  or  lemon.  The 
plums  must  not  be  cooked,  however. 

1  pound  of  wi'd  plums — ripe  and  sweet,  red  or 
yellow. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

1  quart  of  water. 

4  whites  of  eggs. 

Mash  the  plums  and  sugar  together  in  a  bright 
pan,  add  the  water  and  rub  the  pulp  and  pyrup 
through  a  strainer  into  a  freezer.  Freeze,  add  the 
the  whipped  whites  and  beat  up  as  usual.  It  makes 
a  cream-white  ice,  that  may  be  colored  with  a  liitle 
boiled  red  plum  syrup  or  otherwise. 

Wild  plum  ice  cream  of  sweet  pl»«s  may  also  be 
m^de  by  the  directions  given  for  pineapple  ice 
cream.     The  flavor  is  very  good. 

111.  

The  cook  wanted  to  make  a  tapioca  custard  ice 
but  the  appearance  of  it  on  the  bill  of  fare  both' red 
him  He  knew  it  was  good,  for  sometime?  the 
tapioca  cup-custard  had  become  half  frozen  where 
it  was  set  in  ice  to  get  cold,  and  it  was  extremely  rich. 
He  knew  there  waq  such  a  thing  as  iced  pudding, 
but  then  it  might  be  taken  to  mean  only  pudding 
iced  over  like  cake,  and  besides  iced  pudding  should 
be  of  two  parts,  cream  and  fruit.  This  was  at  a 
Sulphur  Springs  down  in  a  warm  State  where  they 
had  ices  of  some  port  for  dinner  every  day  during 
three-fourths  of  the  year,  and  two  kinds  on  Sun- 
days, and  the  repeti'ions  cf  ice  cream  and  lemon 
shetbet  became  extremely  tiresome.  So  he  con- 
cluded to  put  it  on  the  bill  of  fare  frozen  tapioca 
pudding.  But  the  people  who  ate  the  dinners  were 
not  tired  of  ices,  and  the  eating  of  them  had  become 
a  sort  of  habit,  and  to  have  left  out  the  ices  would 
have  seemed  as  strange  as  to  have  left  out  coffee  or 
bread.  And  when  the  young  colonel,  who  was  al 
ways  ready  to  penetrate  a  witicism,  remarked  sig. 
n^ficantly  that  if  there  was  one  thing  he  did  love  it 
was  ice  cream,  and  if  there  was  one  thing  he  did 
despise  it  was  cold  pudding,  everybody  looked  at 


the  bill  of  fare,  and  the  young  ladies  said,  oh,  dear! 
But  the  brig  dier  gener»l  s^id  he  had  half  a  mind 
to  try  it  and  see  what  frozei  pudding  wa',  and  the 
old  lady  said  he  needn't  be  a  bit  afraid  for  every- 
hing  they  made  there  was  good.  But  while  they 
were  talking  the  judge,  who  was  wanted  at  the 
courthruse  a|ain,^had  had  Ms  brcught  in,  and  he 
spoke  up  and  naid  they  couldn't  fool  him,  it  was  ice 
cream.  Then  the  young  ladies  said  again  how  very, 
very  ridiculous,  and  they  might  brirg  them  a  little, 
please.  And  it  ended  badly,  for  through  this  un- 
wonted advertising  of  the  article  it  gave  out  and 
there  was  not  over  half  enough  to  go  round.  But, 
begging  the  judges  pardon,  it  was  not  ice  cream, 
now  what  was  it  ? 


ll!S.   Frozen  Tapioca  Oustard. 


3  quarts  of  milk. 
20  ounces  of  suj?ar. 

6  or  7  ounces  of  tapioca 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
12  yolks  or  8  whole  eggs. 

Flav-ring. 

1  cupful  of  thick  cream  to  whip  in  at  last. 

The  pearl  tapioca  is  the  most  suitable.  If  the 
large  grained  sort  is  used  crush  it  on  th.e  table  with 
the  rolling-pin  and  then  sift  away  the  dust. 

Steep  the  tapioca  2  hours  in  a  quart  of  milk  cold, 
but  set  it  in  a  warm  place.  Boil  the  rest  of  the  milk 
with  the  sugar  in  it,  then  add  the  steeped  tapioca, 
cook  for  15  minutes.  Stir  in  the  butter,  then  the 
beaten  yolks  and  tal^e  the  custard  immediately  off 
the  fire,  cool,  flavor  with  vanilla  or  lemon,  and 
freeze  like  ice  cream,  and  when  ne%rly  finished  add 
the  cup  of  cream  whipped  to  a  froth,  and  beat  well. 


113.      Frozen  Bice  Oustard. 

Same  as  the  preceding.  Wash  6  ounces  of  rice  in 
several  wafers  and  cook  it  in  the  milk.  May  be 
flavored  with  stick  cinnamon.  If  m»de  with  rice 
previously  cooked  pass  it  tbrough  a  colander. 


114,     Frozen  Scgo  Oustard. 


Same  as  the  tapioca  custard.    Steep  the  sago  \% 
cold  milk  first  it  will  then  cook  in  a  few  minutes. 


115. 


Apple  Ice. 


To  be  served  in  co^nbination  with  a  frozen  custard 
such  as  the  preceding  three. 
20  ounces  of  cored  and  sliced  apples. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
1  quart  of  water. 
1  lemon. 

Use  for  this  pu''p''se  only  ripe  and  sweet  apples. 
Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  a  cupful  of 
water  and  throw  in  the  apple  quarters  or  slices  and 


82 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


the  lemon— ccver  with  a  lid  and  simmer  slowly  till 
dene  without  stirring  or  breaking  Strain  out  the 
af  plf  8  find  set  them  on  ice.  Add  the  balance  of  the 
water  to  the  syrup  and  freeze  it  without  much  beat- 
ing, then  throw  in  the  apples  and  finish  the  freezing. 
Thi^  makes  a  whitish  ice.  The  apples  should  not  be 
trozen  very  hard. 


Frozen  Compotes  of  Pears  and  Oranges. 


For  the  same  purposes  as  the  apples  preceding, 
can  be  prepared  in  the  same  way.  The  object  ( f 
stewing  the  fruit  in  thick  eyrup  is  to  prevent  it  from 
breaking  out  of  shape.  The  syrup  can  then  be  dilu- 
ted as  desired. 


The  quantities  in  all  these  receipts  are  calculated 
for  the  average  or  probable  orders  of  60  j  ersons 
having  a  varied  bill  of  fare  to  cboose  fiom.  When 
two  ices  are  to  be  served  in  combination  the  quan. 
tities  of  each  of  course  are  reduced  in  proportion 
A  liberal  rule  is  to  provide  a  quart  before  freezing 
for  every  10  persons,  and  the  freezing  process  should 
increase  its  volume  considerably. 


UT. 


Lemon  Ice. 


8  lemons. 

3  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  quarts  of  water. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  into  a  bowl  ard 
squeeze  in  the  juice.  Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the 
sugar  and  half  the  water  and  pour  it  hot  to  the 
lemon  zest  and  juice  and  let  remain  so  till  cold. 
Then  add  the  rest  of  the  water,  strain  the  lemonade 
into  a  fieezer,  freeze  as  usual,  and  at  last  add  the 
whites  whipped  to  a  firm  froth,  beat  and  freeze  ogain 
Tbe  scalding  draws  the  flavor  of  the  lemon;  it  should 
never,  however,  be  boiled  and  fewer  lemons  shou'd 
be  used  when  they  are  large.  The  ice  is  perfectly 
white. 


118. 


Saratoga  Ice  Cups. 


For  the  following  very  easy  method  of  serving 
ices  ornamentally  there  should  be  provided  a  suffi 
cient  number  of  tin  drinking  cups  made  like  tall 
tumbler  glasses,  to  serve  as  molds.  They  need  have 
no  rimmed  edge.  Their  slight  flexibility  makes 
them  better  tha  •  gl  sses  «o  get  the  shell  of  ice  out 
of.  The  ccmmonest  thin  tumblers  will  answer  how 
ever. 

Take  4  dozen  tumblers  and  set  them  in  a  freezing 
mixture  of  ice  p  ucded  extremely  fine  and  well 
mixed  with  salt  and  a  little  brine  from  the  freezing 
tub.  The  freezing  mixture  may  be  in  a  common 
washtub,  or  wooden  box,  and  no  deeper  than  the 
tumblers.  Fill  the  glasses  with  thin  strawberry, 
pineipple  or  lemon  syrup,  or  with  any  of  the  prep- 
arations for  fruit  ices.    Cover  over  the  top  of  the 


tub  with  a  table  cloth  and  leave  them  to  freeze.  In 
from  15  to  30  minutes  ihe  glasses  or  moulds  will 
have  a  coaling  of  ice  inside  perhfipa  an  eight h-of-an- 
inch  thick.  3 he  unfrozen  syiup  shoild  then  be 
poured  out  and  the  glasses  returned  to  thf^  freezing 
mixture  for  the  inside  c  ating  of  ice  to  freeze  per- 
fectly drj  and  crystalized.  The  freezing  mav  be 
hastened  by  gently  stirring  the  freezing  mixture 
among  the  tumblers  with  a  stick  and  by  turning  the 
tumblers  with  the  fingers. 

When  it  is  time  to  serve  wipe  the  outside  of  the 
glass  or  mold  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  tepid  water 
and  turn  out  the  shell  of  ice.  Fill  it  with  a  curacao 
or  caramel  or  nut  ice  cream  or  any  ether  of  diflFer- 
ent  color  from  the  cup  itself,  or  with  a  puie  froth  d 
cream  swee'ened  and  flavored  and  frozen  in  the  same 
ice  cup  set  in  a  sorbetiere 

Different  colored  cups  m«y  be  made  with  the  green 
syrup  of  pounded  muscatel  grapes,  with  Concord 
grapes,  cherries,  etc.  Observe  that  the  less  sugar 
these  syrups  contain  the  easier  the  cup  shapes  will  be 
to  freeze  and  the  slower  to  dissolve.  They  last  longer 
on  the  table  than  the  ioe  creams  they  are  filled  with. 

Ice  cream  in  shape  of  eggs  :  A  small  number 
for  a  party  table  can  be  made  without  moulds  by 
using  egg  shells  of  the  largest  sort.  Procure  some 
broad  rubber  bands  from  the  stationers,  such  as  are 
used  for  binding  bundles  of  letter,  etc  ,  and  half  an 
inch  in  breadth  Emp^y  the  eggshel's  by  making  a 
hole  at  each  end.  Fill  them  with  ice  cream,  aofi  and 
just  freshly  frozen.  Draw  the  rubber  bands  over 
them  so  as  to  close  the  holes,  brush  over  with  melted 
butter  besides  to  close  a'l  crevices  against  the  salt, 
them  drop  them  in  the  freezing  tub  and  cover  with 
the  finely  pounded  ice  and  salt. 

IIO.  

Surprise  ices  :  A  more  elaborate  form  of  the  fore- 
going egg  shapes.  Fill  the  shells  with  a  white  ice 
cream  only  partly  frozen  and  fluid,  close  with  the 
rubber  bands  and  butter  and  immerse  them  in  the 
freezing  mixture  about  15  minutes  for  a  shell  of 
cream  to  form  inside.  Then  wash  off  the  outside, 
remove  the  bands,  pour  or  scoop  out  the  cream  that 
remains  unfrozen  in  the  middle,  and  place  the  shells 
in  a  freezer  well  packed  in  ice  and  salt  to  freeze  dry 
and  crystalized,  as  already  directed  for  ice  cups. 
After  that  fill  with  chocolate  ice.  cream  or  yellow 
frozen  custard.    The  variations  are  endless. 


130.  Biscuit  Ices  or  Ice  Cakes.     - 

i  BISCUITS  GLACES. 

Ices,  extra  sweet  and  lich,  in  little  paper  cases 
made  to  imitate  cakes,  sometimes  with  a  brown  crust 
on  top  as  if  baked.  Very  handsome  little  rice  paper 
cases  can  now  be  procured  for  this  and  similar  pur. 
poses.  Fill  them  with  any  kind  of  ice  or  with  a 
number  of  different  varieties.  There  is  no  rule  as 
to  kinds  but  nut  creams,  caramel,  chocolate  and 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


strawberry  ice  creams,  and  the  sponge  ices  to  be 
mentioned  further  on,  are  the  most  suitable  Smooth 
over,  roll  some  macaroons  to  powder  and  sift  that 
over  to  give  the  brown  appearance,  then  place  the 
ice  biscuits  in  a  freezing  box  to  remain  till  time  to 
serve. 


Small  quantities  of  ice  creams,  etc.,  for  biscuits 
glaces  and  for  lining  a  mold,  can  be  frozen  wi'hout 
the  trouble  of  the  regular  packing  of  a  freezer  for 
each  Vind  in  any  sort  of  deep  tin  vessel  set  in  a  tub 
of  ice  and  salt,  by  rapid  stirring  with  a  spoon  or 
paddle  while  the  vessel  is  tept  in  motion  with  the 
other  hand.  A  quart  in  each  can  generally  be  fro- 
zen in  10  or  15  minutes. 


Ices  for  biscuits  glaces  that  are  made  with  1  pound 
or  IJ  pounds  of  sugar  to  a  quart  have  a  glossy  ap- 
pearance when  well  worked  and  draw  from  the 
spoon  like  pulled  candy. 

131.  

A  freezing  I  ox:  It  is  a  simple  and  ea«y  matter  to 
freeze  ice  crei>m  in  a  mold  that  can  have  the  Id  pu 
on,  be  sealed  and  dropped  into  (he  freeziag  tub  fropa 
which  the  ice  cream  freezer  has  just  been  removed. 
A  freezing  box  involving  the  use  of  a  larger  amount 
of  freezit  g  material  is,  however,  indisprnsablfi  for 
some  articles.  An  empty  ice  cream  freezer  with  the 
lid  on,  picked  around  and  on  top  wish  ice  and  salt, 
is  an  example  of  what  is  wanted.  A  glass  of  cream 
placed  inside  might  be  frozen  solid  in  an  hour  cr 
two.  But  something  more  spacious  can  generally  be 
improvised,  f  uch  as  a  bro^d  and  shallow  boi'er  set 
in  a  tub.  The  article  must  have  a  lid  that  will  ad- 
mit of  ice  and  salt  being  packed  all  over  it  without 
danger  to  the  contents. 


"Now  I  have  lived  long  enough  to  know  that  each 
generation  says  the  same  thing,  and  is  laughed  at 
f(  r  its  pains  by  the  generation  fullowing." — Savarin 
Preface. 


We  have  adhered  closely  to  one  of  the  highest 
piiociples  of  the  best  cook  which  the  present  ege,  or 
perhaps  that  of  Heliogabalus  hath  produced.  This 
grcit  man,  as  is  well  known  to  all  lovers  of  polite 
eating,  begios  at  first  by  setting  plain  things  before 
his  hungry  guests,  using  afterwards  by  degrees,  as 
their  s  omacUs  may  be  supposed  to  decrease,  to  the 
very  qsintessence  of  sauce  and  spices.  By  these 
mears  we  duubt  not  but  our  reader  may  be  rendered 
desirous  to  read  on  forever,  as  the  great  person  just 
above  mentioned  i<j  supposed  to  have  made  persons 
to  eat." — Fielding — Preface  to    Tom  Jones — 1751. 

"There  is  no  doubt  the  delicacy  of  cur  manners 
could  not  suffer  the  Roman  practice  cf  using  vomi- 
tories, but  we  have  done  better,  and  reach  the  same 


end  by  a  method  allowed  by  good  taste.  Wo  have 
invented  dishes  fo  attractive  that  they  unceasingly 
renew  the  appetite  ;  yet  they  are  at  the  same  time 
so  light  that  they  flatter  the  palate  without  loading 
the  stomach.  We  have  arrived  at  such  a  point,  that 
if  the  calls  of  business  did  not  force  us  to  riee  from 
the  table,  or  the  want  of  sleep  interpose,  the  dura- 
tion of  our  repasts  would  be  almost  unlimited;  and 
there  would  be  no  fixed  data  for  finding  what  time 
might  elapse  between  the  first  glass  of  Madeira  and 
the  last  tumbler  of  punch." — Oastronomy — 1825. 


"Although  this  kind  of  ice  is  seldom  served  I  have 
thought  it  best  to  describe  it ;  it  is  just  possible 
that,  in  (his  transition  period,  we  mny  see  an  a'- 
tempt  made  to  improve  the  indiflfeverit  quali  y  of 
the  refreshments  now  served  at  evening  parties ;  and 
then  such  delicate  preparations  as  these  Iced  Froths 
will  be  in  request.  They  are  cool  to  eat  without 
freezing  the  palatr;  they  are  perfectly  whoiesome  and 
suited  to  the  weakest  digestion." —  Jules  Qouffe 
—1865. 


*'Even  if  we  do  the  same  things  as  the  ancients 
did,  we  do  them  in  a  different  manner." — SavarMa 
Preface, 


122. 


Iced  Froths. 


MOUSSES   GLACEES. 


These  ices  often  appear  in  the  menus  of  banquet^ 
served  at  Delmonico's  They  are  whipped  creami 
variously  flavored;  the  froth  is  piled  in  glasse;} 
which  are  then  set  in  a  freezing  box  where  it  is  al- 
lowed to  freeze  without  any  minipulation.  Double 
cream  must  be  used;  that  is  cream  skimmed  fronj 
the  top  of  cresm.  It  should  be  cold  to  froth  easily. 
Sweeten  and  flavor  it  like  any  ice  cream  preparation, 
and  churn  it  in  a  pail  with  a  whip  churn,  such  %% 
may  be  procured  at  any  tinners,  or  with  a  Dovei 
egg  bearer  in  a  shallow  bowl;  take  off  the  froth, 
place  it  on  a  fine  seive  to  drain,  and  when  all  ia 
whipped  firm  pile  it  in  the  glasses  it  is  to  be  frozen 
and  served  in. 

Maraschino,  chocolate,  coffee,  strawberry,  lemon 
and  vanil'a  creams  are  suitable  but  need  to  be  more 
highly  flavored  than  the  ordinary  ices. 

It  will  be  found  a  great  aid  if  all  the  operations 
can  be  performed  in  a  cold  place. 

For  the  pastry  cook  who  makes  sponge  cake  fre* 
quently,  it  will  remove  the  abtrusenesa  from  two  or 
three  examples  following  to  observe  that  they  are 
nearly  the  same  as  lady-finger  batter  before  the  flouf 
is  added. 


34 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Vienna  Glaoe  Biscuit,  or  Ice  Cake. 

153.  

1  pouud  of  sugar. 

1  email  cup  of  water— nearly  J  pint. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  pint  of  double  cream. 

2  tablespoonfula  of  vanilla  extract. 

Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water.  Beat 
the  yor^s  light  in  a  deep  bowl,  pour  the  boiling  syr- 
up to  them  and  continue  beating,  with  the  bowl  set 
in  ice  water,  till  the  mixture  is  cold  and  very  light. 
Whip  the  cream  to  froth  and  lightly  mix  it  with  the 
other,  and  add  the  flavoring.  Sift  powdered  maca- 
roon over  the  rice  paper  cases,  nearly  fiil  them  with 
the  preparation,  powder  over  the  tops  and  set  the 
biscuits  in  the  freezing  case  for  2  or  3  hours. 

The  practice  so  common  in  Italian  and  French 
cookery  of  using  syrups  of  varying  density  instead 
of  sugar  in  making  numerous  other  articles,  as  well 
as  their  especial  varieties  of  cakes,  is  a  remnant 
of  ancient  times,  for  the  Italians  and  the  French 
were  fine  cooks  long  before  the  art  of  making  dry 
crystalized  sugar  was  kaown.  Th-^y  used  syrups 
and  honey,and  the  handicraft  transmitted  from  father 
to  son  has  not  been  wholly  revolutionized  by  the 
newer  product. 

Spongada,  Fromasre  Glace,  or   Sponge 

154.  Ice. 


Sort  of  frozen  '*  Tom  and  Jerry  "—needs  no  milk 
or  cream. 
24  yolks  of  eggs. 

6  whites  of  eggs. 

2  pounds  of  sugar, 

1  pint  of  water. 

1  pint  of  kirschenwasser,  or  half  as  much  maras- 
chino, curacoa,  or  a  little  peach  brandy. 

Make  a  boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  wa'er  and 
pour  it  to  the  yolks  previously  beaten  light.  Beat  the 
mixture  till  cool,  pour  it  into  a  freezer  and  con'ioue 
beating  with  the  wire  egg  whisk,  turning  the  freezer 
with  the  other  hand,  till  it  is  pretty  well  frozen, 
then  add  the  liqueur  a  little  at  a  time,  and  then 
the  whites  of  eggs  whipped  firm.  It  looks  like  a 
very  spongy  cake.  Can  be  be  put  in  paper  cases 
large  or  small,  or  filled  in  a  frozen  charlotte. 

An'>ther  variety  of  the  foregoing  may  be  made  by 
freezing  2  quarts  of  syrup  with  chocolate  dissolved 
in  if,  and  when  nearly  finished  add  12  whites  of  eggs 
whipped  light,  and  beating  all  together. 

The  receipt  for  glace  a  la  cremi  Napolitaine  origi- 
nally promulgated  by  M.  M.  Bernard  and  Urbain- 
Dubois  from  the  royal  palace  at  Vienna,  perhaps 
some  thirty  years  ago,  had  no  reference  to  the  brick 
shape  of  tri-colored  ices  of  the  present  fashion.     It 


was — 3  decil  de  creme  doublo,  trois  quarts  de  litre 
de  sirop  a  25  dsg.,  15  jaunes  d'oeufs,  1  orange  zeste 
— approximately  a  pint  of  double  cream,  a  pound  of 
sugar  and  a  half  a  pint  of  wa^er,  15  yolks,  and  (r 
ange  flavor,concocted  together  by  the  Italian  method, 
i.  e.  the  boiling  syrup  poured  <o  the  yolks,  and  the 
mixture  be- ten  up  like  sponge  cake  batter,  the 
whipped  cream  incorporated  with  it,  and  the  liijbt 
product  frozen  quickly. 

135.  

Neapolitan  molds :  These  are  in  the  form  of  a  cigar 
box  or  briok  ;  can  be  made  much  longer  if  desired. 
If  ordered  from  a  tinner  have  ihem  made  wih  two 
bids  and  no  bottom  instead  of  box-like  wiih  one  lid ; 
let  the  rim  of  the  lids  have  thick  wire  soldered  on 
to  rest  upon  another  wire  soMered  on  the  box — 
much  the  same  as  ice  cream  freezer  lids  are  made. 

Neapolitan  is  the  English  word,  Napolitaine  is  the 
French.  These  are  among  the  words  that  break  us 
all  up  with  our  bills  of  fare. 


ISO.  Neapolitan  Ices  or  Ice  Cream. 


Prepare  three  ice  creams,  or  creams  and  fruit  ices 
or  spoi  ge  ices,  of  different  colors  and  flavors,  and 
fill  the  mold  (already  made  freezing  cold)  with  them 
in  equal  layers.  This  is  best  done  by  filling  ono 
of  the  lids  higher  than  its  rim  and  leveling  it  off, 
then  pushing  the  mold  down  into  it  and  then  adding 
the  other  two  layers  as  evenly  as  possible.  Put  on 
the  top  lid,  draw  half  a  dozen  rubber  bands  around 
each  mold  to  keep  the  lids  in  place,  fill  the  inter- 
stices with  butter  and  then  place  the  molds  in  the 
freezing  tub  and  cover  them  with  pounded  iceand  salt. 
Let  them  remoin  2  or  3  hours  to  harden.  Some  re- 
gard should  be  had  to  the  compatibility  of  flavors 
chosen  as,  for  instance,  lemon  and  chccolate  do  not 
taste  well  together,  but  chocolate  and  cinnamon  and 
vanil  a  do,  and  an  almond  flavored  caramel  cream  is 
suitable  with  red  grape  and  white  cherry  ices. 

Ices  are  said  to  have  been  introduced  into  France 
from  Italy  by  Catherine  de  Medici. 


Italian  Fruit 
1ST. 


Ice  Cream  or  Iced  Plum 
Pudding. 


TUTTI  FRUTTFf 

Make  a  quart  of  rich  yolk-of-egg  custard,  color  it 
cafe-au-lait  wiih  two  ounces  of  sugar  burnt  to  mola«- 
ses  color  and  dissolved  in  milk,  flavor  with  a  quarter 
pint  of  curacoa,  strain,  freeze  and  boat  up  thoroughly. 

Fill  a  quart  measure  with  a  mixture  of  different 
kinds  of  sugared  fruits,  candied  dates,  preserved 
wa'er  melon  rind,  candied  citron,  seedless  raisins 
previously  steeped  in  a  liqueur,  figs  cut  in  pieces, 
some  blanched  almonds  or  ^nything^  of  the  sort  that 
is  good.  Mix  these  fruUs  with  the  frozen  custard 
and  pack  down  with  ice  and  salt  to  remain  while 
you  prepare  the  molds. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


Make  also  2  quarts  of  orange  ice  in  another  freezer, 
add  the  white  of  eggs  in  the  usual  manner  and  beat  it 
up  whife  ai'd  smooth,  then  spread  it  evenly  over  the 
insides  of  2  or  3  melon  molds  to  coat  them.  Imbed 
ihe  molds  in  the  freezing  mixture  and  when  the  coat- 
ing  of  orange  ice  is  frozen  firm  fill  up  with  the  tutti 
frutM.  Spread  the  orange  ice  also  on  top,  put  on 
the  lids,  secure  with  a  number  of  rubber  bands; 
close  all  spaces  securely  with  butter  and  place  the 
molds  in  the  freezing  mixture  to  remain  2  or  3  hours. 

When  to  be  served  wash  the  outsides  with  a  cloth 
dipped  in  tepiJ  water,  carefully  turn  out  the  tutti 
frutti  ou  to  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  lay  a  decora- 
tion of  gelatine  paste  upon  the  white  surface  and 
serve. 

Or  it  can  be  served  individually  in  slines  the 
same  as  Neapolitan  ices. 

Nearly  all  ice  cream  molds,  except  the  half  melon 
shape,  require  a  lid  at  each  end  because  the  pressure 
of  air  renders  it  difl&cult  to  withdraw  the  icei  from 
a  tall  shape  tightly  soldered  at  the  top. 


Gelatine  Paste  for  Ornamenting  loes 
138.  

Make  clear  jelly  in  the  usual  manner,  then  reduce 
it  by  slow  boiling  to  little  more  than  half,  color  it  as 
desired,  filter  again,  flavor,  and  cool  it  on  large  plat- 
ters. S'amp  out  leaves,  fern  leaves,  flower  shapes, 
etc  ,  and  have  them  ready  to  place  on  the  molded 
ices  as  soon  as  they  are  turned  out. 


There  are  few  terms  of  more  uncertain  meaning 
than  the  word  sherbet.  At  first  perhaps  a  simple 
beverage  of  sweet  fruit  juice  mixed  with  water  and 
cooled  with  a  handful  of  mountain  snow,  it  has 
come  to  stand  for  anything  from  flavored  sugar  and 
water  and  lemonade  to  frozen  champagne  punch. 


1^9. 


London  Sherbet. 


3  pints  of  water. 

1^  pints  of  wine — port  or  any  sweet  kind. 
2  pounds  of  sugar. 

4  t  ranges. 
2  lemons. 

8  ounces  of  sultana  seedless  raisins. 
8  whiles  of  eggs. 
Nutm<»g.     Red  fruit  juice  or  other  coloring. 
Make  a  sjrup  of  the  sugar  and  water  and  pour  it 

hot  upon  the  oranges  and  lemons  all  cut  up  in  a 
bowl,  and  the  raisins  and  half  a  nutmeg  with  them. 
When  cool  strain  the  syrup  into  a  freezer,  add  the 
wine  and  coloring  to  make  it  pink,  and  freeze  and 
beat  up  with  the  whites  of  eggs  as  usual.  Add  the 
fruit  slicea  at  last  and  mix  them  in  without  break- 
i'>g.  Only  good  thin-skinned  fruit  can  be  used  this 
way.     Exclude  the  seeds  lest  the  sherbet  be  bitter. 


130. 


Turkish  Sherbet. 


1  quart  of  port  or  any  sweet  wine. 

1  quart  of  water. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  lemons — juice  only. 

6  oranges— juice  only. 

8  ounces  of  blanched  almonds. 

8  ounces  of  musca'el  grapes. 

4  ounces  of  figs  cut  small. 

4  ounces  of  seedless  raisins. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Cloves  and  cinnamon,  and  little  coloring. 

Make  a  hot  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water  and 
pour  it  over  the  raisins  and  figs  and  6  cloves  and  a 
small  piece  of  cinnamon  in  a  b  )wl.  When  cool  color 
pink,  add  the  orange  and  lemon  juice  and  wine, 
strain,  and  freeze  it  in  the  usual  manner.  Take  out 
the  spices  and  add  the  scalded  raisins  and  figs  and 
the  grapes  and  almonds  to  the  sherbet  at  last. 


Collet,  a  French  captain  and  refugee,  made  a  small 
fortune  in  New  York  about  the  year  1816  by  making 
ices  and  sherbets.  8&jb  the  Chronicler:  "The  women 
in  particular,  never  tired  of  this  new  pleasure,  be- 
ing especially  astonished  that  they  could  be  kept  so 
cold  at  a  summer  heat  of  ninety  degrees." 


If  sherbets  have  any  distinguishing  feature  in 
their  composition  at  all  it  is  the  admixture  of  jelly, 
either  calf's  foot  or  gelatine,  recommended  by  some 
to  give  smoothness  to  the  drink  and  substance  to 
the  ice  Mention  has  already  been  made  of  gela- 
tine in  ice  cream.  Either  gelatine  dissolved  or  fin- 
ished table  jelly  can  be  added  at  option  to  the  Eher- 
bets  preceding,  but  in  that  case  leave  out  the  whites 
of  eggs  which  are  the  substitute  for  calf's  foot  jvl-y. 


According  the  lexicographers  the  word  punch  is 
derived  from  East  Indian  pantsh,  five,  having  refer- 
ence to  the  five  ingredients  of  punch — water,  spirit, 
sugar,  lemons  and  tea.  But  that  is  the  old-fashioned 
punch  to  be  drunk  hot. 

131.  

Roman  punch  is  essentially  a  strong  and  good 
lemonade  with  rum  in  it  and  whipped  whites  of 
egg?,  and  frozen.  But  almost  every  one  adds  to  it 
orange  juice,  wine  or  brandy  or  maraschino  and 
sometimes  spices  and  flavors.  These  are  not  essen- 
tial ingredients  but  only  individual  fancies,  but  it 
results  that  there  is  nothing  that  cooks  in  hotels 
have  to  make  that  there  are  such  various  ideas 
about  as  the  composition  of  Roman  punch.  Ag  in, 
the  caterers  who  have  had  the  privilege  of  setting 
the  fashions  make  other  punches  "a  U  Romaicp," 
which  are  not  Roman  punch  but  are  made  in  '  he 
same  manner  with  white  of  egg«,  or  Italian  mer- 
ingue, (which  is  boiled  icing  and  acts  the  same  as 
the  whites)  and  frozen.     Rum  punch  becomes  Ro* 


86 


THE  AlttEBICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


man  punch  by  being  put  through  the  process  just 
mentioned.  The  places  where  Roman  punch,  or 
something  that  passes  for  it  is  served  wiih  the  des- 
sert  in  place  of  ice  cream  are  far  more  numerous 
than  where  it  is  served  as  a  course  between  the  en 
trees  and  the  game. 


139. 


Boman  Punoh. 


2  pounds  of  sugar. 
8  pints  of  water. 

6  or  6  lemons — -juice  of  all,  zest  of  3. 

3  or  4  orangf  8— juice  of  all,  zest  of  1. 
8  whites  of  eggs. 

Half  pint  of  Jamaica  rum. 

Half  pint  of  angelica  or  other  sweet  wine. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  3  or  4  of  the  lemons  and  1  or 
2  oranges,  according  to  their  size  and  ripeness,  into 
a  bowl  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all  without  the 
seeds.  Make  a  hot  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  a  pint  of 
water,  and  when  it  has  cooled  a  little  pour  it  to  the 
zests  and  juice,  and  let  remain  till  cold.  Add  the 
wine  and  the  other  two  pints  of  water,  strain  into 
a  freezer,  freeze,  add  the  whipped  whites,  and  a 
few  minutes  before  serving  put  in  the  rum  and  beat 
to  mix. 

2.  To  make  a  more  expensive  quality  of  punch 
use  good  French  white  wine  instead  of  water,  ex- 
oept  water  enough  to  dissolve  the  sugar.  Rub  the 
orange  and  lemon  zests  on  lumps  of  sugar  and  the 
flavored  syrup  made  with  it  need  not  be  made  hot. 
A  larger  number  of  lemons  will  be  needed,  and  the 
rum  is  to  be  added  at  last  as  in  the  other  case. 


133. 


Russian  Punoh. 


1  quart  of  black  tea  made  as  for  drinking,  (1  oz. 
in  a  quart  of  water.) 

1  pint  of  water. 

1  pint  of  port  wine. 

Half  pint  of  brandy. 

1|  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  lemons. 

Little  caramel  to  color. 

Cut  the  lemons  in  small  slices  in  a  bowl,  make  a 
boiling  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water  and  pour  over 
them  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Then  add  the  tea  and 
liquors  and  strain  the  punch  into  a  freezer  and 
freeze  as  hard  as  the  spirit  in  it  will  allow.  Keep 
the  lemon  slices  on  ice  and  mix  them  in  the  frozen 
punch  at  last.  This  should  be  light  ale  colored. 
Use  carmel  if  necessary. 


134.       Maraschino  Punoh. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  pints  of  water. 

2  lemons- juice  only, 
2  oranges — juice  only. 
1  pint  of  maraschino. 
6  whites  of  eggs. 


Mix  the  sugar  and  water  and  juice  of  fruits  to 
gcther,  strain,  freeze,  add  the  whipped  whites  and 
beat  up. 


135. 


Strawberry  Punoh. 


Prepare  strawberry  syrup  as  directed  for  straw- 
berry ice  and  add  to  it  a  pint  of  sweet  wine  and 
freeze.     Color  bright  rose. 


130. 


Imperial  Punoh. 


2  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  pints  of  water. 
1  ripe  pineapple. 

4  oranges — juice  of  all,  zest  of  2. 
4  lemons — ^juice  of  all,  zest  of  2. 
1  nutmeg. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

1  pint  of  equal  parts  of  maraschino,  noyeau, 
kirscb,  and  curacao. 

1  pint  of  champagne. 

Grate  or  mash  the  pineapple,  add  the  zests  and 
juice  of  the  lemons  and  oranges  and  pour  on  them 
the  hot  sjrup  made  of  the  sugar  and  water.  Let 
stand  till  cold  Then  strain  and  pres3  the  syrup 
from  the  pineapple,  freeze  and  add  the  whipped 
whites  as  usual,  and  a  little  while  before  serving  add 
the  liqueurs  and  champagne. 


13T. 


Kisses. 


Not  dictionary  kisses.  Unfortunately  perhaps  for 
the  succintness  of  the  following  disquisition  the  die 
tionaries  describe  another  kind  of  kisses  which  in 
some  people's  minds  may  possibly  intrude  and  get 
mixed  up  with  these.  But  they  ought  not,  for  it  is 
not  likely  that  the  two  varieties  have  any  qualities 
in  common.  These  kisses  that  we  are  going  to  tell 
you  how  to  make  are  soft,  tender,  sweet,  fragile, 
round,  plump,  smooth,  delicate,  nice,  light,  and  they 
are  hollow.  That  is  to  say,  they  should  be  so  if  per- 
fectly well  made,  but  some  people  go  on  trying  all 
their  lives  and  never  prodi  ce  a  perfect  kiss.  On 
second  thoughts,  for  fear  of  the  idea  of  the  diction- 
ary kiss  perhaps  we  had  better  call  these  trifles  by 
their  Freuch  names.  And  you  may  find  one  of  them 
if  you  will  look  in  Mr.  Thackeray's  book,  Pendenms. 
It  must  be  about  the  middle  of  the  first  volume  and 
can  easily  be  found  because  the  French  words  are  in 
italics.  Mr.  P.  comes  to  Clivering  Hall  and  he 
finds  the  Claveri'  gs'  young-one  sittiag  on  the  carpet 
with  his  Uce  smeared  all  over  *'with  the  species  of 
lather  contained  in  the  confec'ion  called  meringues  a 
la  creme."  That  is  one  sort.  Those  are  our  egg 
kisses  filled  with  whipped  cream.  So  of  course  they 
have  to  be  made  hollow,  and  few  beside  first  rate 
workmen  can  make  them  so.  But  there  are  numer- 
ous varietias  of  the  kiss-meringue,  and  they  that  can 
make  them  are  generally  proud  of  their  knowledge* 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


87 


Now  plenty  of  people  will  make  cake  icing  and  drop 
lumps  of  it  on  pans  or  on  paper  and  bake  them  and 
call  them  kisses  or  meringues ;  hard,  rough  and 
cracked  open  little  lumps  of  sugar  as  Ihey  are, 
and  many  a  country  baker  exhibits  the  same  thing 
in  his  window,  never  seeming  to  know  that  there  is 
a  trick  and  touch  beyond  that,  with  the  same  mate- 
rial, that  makes  the  meringue  swell  and  round  itself 
like  the  top  of  a  mushroom,  into  a  shell  as  thin  as 
paper — the  meringues  and  finger  macaroons  of  the 
fine  con  fee  ionaries.  There  are  measures  and  rules 
for  these,  and  the  finest  are  easy  enough  when  one 
knows  how. 

These  are  trifles  of  course  not  to  be  compared  with 
the  importance  of  making  good  bread  and  puddings, 
yet  if  one  makes  such  "pretties"  at  ail  they  should 
be  in  the  highest  degree  excellent.  We  have  found 
oral  instructions  always  useless  to  the  many  who  have 
tried  to  make  fine  meringues.  The  cook-books  give 
a  dry  formula  and  leave  you  to  hit  or  miss  as  it  may 
hippen.  Therefore  we  shall  be  particular  to  explain 
all  the  trick  there  is  about  them,  belie-ving  that  at 
any  rate  printed  words  may  be  quite  as  good  as 
actual  examples  for  intelligent  readers,  who  can  refer 
to  them  again  if  necessary. 


138. 


Meringue  Paste- 


This  in  various  forms  has  had  to  be  mentioned 
often  in  these  columns.  It  is  always  white  of  egg 
and  sugar,  but  is  sometimes  soft  meringue  as  on 
lemon  pies,  and  sometimes  nearly  all  sugar  as  in 
cake  icing  and  ^'kisses."  « 


130.     Meringues  a  la  Creme. 


These  are  made  in  two  different  ways,  the  first 
makes  perhaps  the  finest  and  smoothest  glazed  mer- 
ingue resembling  frosted  glass,  but  the  paste  must 
be  used  immediately  as  it  soon  becomes  too  thin  to 
keep  shape. 

1  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 
10  whites  of  eggf. 

1  or  2  teaspoonfu's  oT  flavoring  extract. 

Have  everything  cold  and  dry  to  begin  with.  Whip 
the  white  of  eggs  in  a  deep  bowl  with  a  whisk  made 
of  a  bunch  of  wires,  till  it  will  not  fall  out  when 
turned  upside  down,  add  the  sugar  and  flavoring  all 
at  once  and  stir  it  in  just  enough  to  mix  it  well  and 
no  more.  Have  ready  some  strips  of  writing  paper 
two  inches  wide  and  pieces  of  boards  (not  pine)  to 
bake  the  meringues  on.  Place  spoonfuls  egg- 
shaped  on  the  strips  of  paper,  not  too  close,  smooth 
them  with  a  knife,  sift  powdered  sugar  all  over  them, 
shake  oflF  the  surplus,  place  the  strips  on  the  boards 
and  dry-bake  them  with  the  oven  door  partly  open. 
They  need  tp  bake  nearly  or  quite  half  an  hour. 


They  can  be  lifted  oflF  the  paper  when  cold.  Tha 
boards  prevent  a  crust  forming  on  the  bottom  and 
the  soft  remainder  inside  can  be  scooped  out.  Fill 
as  directed  in  the  next  receipt. 

140.  

Meringue  Puffs— An  Easier  Way. 


1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  extract. 

8  drops  of  acetic  acid,  or  a  pinch  of  tartaric,  or  a 
little  lemon  juice. 

Put  half  the  whites  in  a  bowl  without  beating, 
and  all  the  sugar  with  them  and  beat  together  with 
a  wooden  spoon  or  paddle.  It  may  save  half  the 
labor  and  insures  success  to  have  all  the  utensils  and 
ingredients  quite  cold  to  begin  with.  It  quickens 
the  process  if  the  beating  can  be  done  with  two  pad- 
dles, using  both  hands  as  regular  workmen  do.  The 
bowl  should  be  a  deep  one  holding  two  quarts. 

The  sugar  and  egg  at  first  are  as  stifi"  as  dough. 
Beat  rapidly  and  constantly  for  about  16  minutes, 
when  it  should  be  white  and  rather  firm  cake  icing. 
Now  add  the  remaining  4  whites  of  egg,  one  at  a 
time,  and  beat  a  few  minutes  between  each  one,  but 
before  the  last  one  is  added  put  in  the  acid  and 
the  flavoring. 

The  whole  time  of  beating  is  about  25  minutes. 
An  essential  point  is  to  beat  the  icing  after  the  addi- 
tion of  each  white  until  it  will  again  draw  up  in 
peaks  after  the  paddle  is  lifted  from  it,  except  the 
last  white  which  should  not  be  beaten  much  as  it 
forms  the  gloss  and  smoothness  on  the  meringues 
when  they  are  baked. 

Drop  this  meringue  paste  in  egg  shapes  on  baking 
pani  instead  of  on  paper  as  in  the  last  receipt,  and 
these  being  made  with  granulated  sugar  instead  of 
powdered  do  not  need  any  Eugar  sifted  over,  they 
look  better  without. 

Bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  till  pale  straw  color  and 
dry.     They  slip  from  the  pans  easily  when  cold. 

Cut  out  the  thin  bottom  crusts  with  a  penknife* 
and  fill  the  meringues  with  whipped  cream  sweet, 
ened  and  flavored,  or  with  wine  jelly,  and  either 
place  two  together  by  the  bottoms  or  join  them 
two  together  side  by  side  with  melted  candy 
or  icing,  like  an  open  walnut  shell,  and  pile  wipped 
cream  or  chopped  jelly  upon  them.  These  mer- 
ingues likewise  look  well  singly  as  cups  filled  with 
bright  jellies  of  different  colors  and  with  ice  creams. 


Instead  of  placing  the  meringue  paste  on  the  pans 
with  spoon  and  knife  it  is  much  better  to  use  the 
sack  and  tube,  such  as  lady-fingers  are  made  with 
— a  funnel  shaped  canvas  bag  with  a  tin  tube  in  the 
pointed  end,  the  tube  about  J  inch  in  diameter  at 
the  narrow  end  for  these.  Fill  the  sack  with  the 
paste  and  press  it  out  in  the  size  and  shape  desired. 


Sb 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBT  OOOK. 


141.       Rose  Meringue  Pufife. 

Hiving  made  the  meringue  paste  according  to  the 
preceding  directions,  color  it,  or  a  part  of  it,  of  a 
delicale  pink  and  flavor  with  rose  extract.  Drop 
with  the  sack  and  tube  pieces  like  large  marbles  on 
baking  pans  previously  greased  and  then  vfiped  dry, 
and  bake  slowly  without  color.  These  rise  rounded 
and  nearly  hollow  and  have  a  gauzy  appearance 
when  rightly  baked. 

Sometimes  the  first  panful  of  any  of  these  varie- 
ties put  into  the  range  will  run  together  and  melt 
and  come  out  worthless,  and  the  next  come  out 
perfect  meringues,  or  one  side  of  a  pan  will  be 
spoiled  and  the  remainder  good.  This  shows  that 
the  baking  is  the  critical  part  of  the  making,  and 
that  is  what  we  never  can  teach  by  word  of  mouth. 
At  a  certain  gentle  heat  the  egg  in  the  meringues 
cooks  and  dries  in  shape,  but  at  a  higher  degree  the 
sugar  melts  and  runs  to  candy  in  bubbles.  A.t  an 
insufficient  degree  of  heat  the  meringue  dries  as  it 
would  in  the  sun  and  does  not  swell  and  change  its 
appearance.  In  the  brick  oven  after  the  bread  has 
been  withdrawn  is  the  proper  place  to  bake  mer- 
ingues. 

143.  Chocolate  Merinarue  Puffs. 


There  is  nothing  of  the  kind  choicer  or  more 
fragile  than  these.  Only  a  slight  change  in  the 
ingredients  from  the  foregoing  varieties. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 
6  whites  of  eggs. 

3  ounces  of  grated  common  chocolate — a  heaping 
cupful 
3  drops  of  acetic  acid. 

2  teaspoonfula  of  vanilla  extract. 

Beat  up  the  icing  as  directed  for  meringue  puflFs, 
using  6  whites  instead  of  8,  and  when  it  is  finished 
mix  in  the  chocolate  thoroughly.  Drop  round  por- 
tions with  the  sack  and  tube  on  baking  pans  and 
bake  at  a  very  gentle  heat  These  rise  rounded 
like  a  mushroom,  and  nearly  hollow.  They  slip 
from  the  pans  ea-ily  when  cold. 


143.  Almond  Meringue  Puffe. 

Take  some  of  the  white  icing  as  made  for  mer- 
ingue puffs,  drop  round  portions  like  large  marbles 
01  baking  pans  and  stick  5  or  6  halves  of  almonds 
that  have  been  blanched  and  split,  in  each  one,  in 
circular  order,  and  bake  carefully. 

144.  Oocoanut  Macaroons. 


Make  the  white  ising  or  meringue  paste  as  directed 
for  meringue  puffs  and  add  to  it  when  finished  8 
ounces  of  desiccated  cocoanut.  Drop  pieces  size  of 
walnu  8  v.ith  a  spoon  and  knife  point,  on  greased 
baking  pans  and  bake  in  a  very  slack  oven.    These 


favorites  for  the  cake  baskets.  The  sugared  kind 
of  desiccated  cocoanut  is  the  best  to  use.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  have  the  icing  well  made  a  d 
firm  before  adding  it,  for  no  additions  of  flour  or 
starch  will  do  any  good  if  the  icing  is  inclined  to 
run  in  the  first  place.  And  too  much  care  cannot 
be  taken  with  the  baking.  Let  the  macaroons  re- 
main  on  the  pans  till  cold. 

145.  Almond  Rings  and  Fingers. 

Make  the  same  as  the  preceding  with  8  ounces  of 
blanched  almonds  minced  very  small.  Put  a  smaller 
tube  in  the  forcing  sack,  and  form  finger  shapes  and 
rings  of  the  almond  meringue  paste  on  baking  pans, 
and  bake  them  in  a  very  slack  oven.  These  all  bake 
light  and  nearly  hollow  and  have  a  fine  glazed  sur. 
face. 


The  foregoing  varieties,  which  can  all  be  made 
out  of  one  large  bowl  of  meringue  paste,  form  a  hand- 
some assortment  for  the  cake  stands,  to  build  pyra- 
mids, to  place  around  glass  bowls  of  fruit,  to  deco- 
rate cakes  and  to  fill  icing  or  nougat  baskets  with. 


146. 


Common  Macaroons. 


12  ounces  of  almonds. 

8  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

4  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 

Crush  the  almonds  without  taking  off  the  skins, 
with  a  rolling-pin  upon  the  table.  Mix  them  and 
the  sugar  and  flour  together  in  a  bowl.  Drop  the 
eggs  in  the  middle  and  mix  the  whole  into  a  rather 
soft  dough.  Place  in  lumps  size  of  cherries  on 
baking  pans  very  slightly  greased.  Bake  in  a  slack 
oven  light  brown.  A  few  bitter  almonds  or  peach 
kernels  mixed  in  improves  them. 


147.  Meringue  Cakes  in  General. 

Make  white  icing  or  meringue  paste  according  to 
directions  in  preceding  articles  and  add  two  more 
whites  to  thin  it  Color  some  of  it  and  leave  some 
white.  Spread  it  over  sheets  of  any  sort  of  cake,  or 
on  small  cakes  and  bake  in  a  very  slack  oven  with 
something  under  the  cakes  to  keep  them  from  too 
much  baking  at  bottom.  Granulated  sugar  may  be 
sifted  over  the  top  before  baking,  or  colored  sugar 
sand  on  the  white. 

148.  About  Eggs  and  Egg  Beating. 


One  of  the  very  first  cook-books  I  ever  picked  up 
cautioned  the  reader  not  to  stop  beating  the  eggs 
that  were  once  commenced,  because  they  would  go 
down  "and  no  human  power  can  whip  them  up 
light  again."  The  statement  is  altogether  erroneous 
and  a  very  mischievous  one  for  the  clats  of  learners 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


who  are  always  seeking  excuses  for  bad  work.  And 
it  went  on  to  say,  "and  sometimes  they  cannot  be 
whipped  to  perfect  lightness  at  all  In  that  case 
you  should  procure  some  fresher  eggs,"  eto. 

Hotel  work  admi-s  of  no  apologies,  and  when  the 
steward  and  cooks  plan  the  dinner  thpy  cannot  afford 
to  mvte  the  appearance  of  a  dish  contingent  upon 
the  caprice  of  a  di  zen  of  eggs,  whether  they  will 
choose  to  come  up  light  or  not. 

The  ease  or  difflcu'ty  cf  beating  up  eggs,  mpringvie, 
icing,  sponge  cake  snd  the  rest  depends  upon  the 
degree  of  deufity  or  viscidity  ( f  the  f  g?s  rr  the  white 
of  eggs,  and  tha^  often  depends  upon  the  tempera- 
ture; they  are  thicker  when  c  Id,  and  when  x;arm 
the  white  of  eggs  sometimes  becomes  so  tbin  as  to 
have  no  more  power  t  >  hold  the  air  bubbles  beaten 
into  it  than  so  much  water. 

Only  last  winter  a  man  who  had  worked  with  me 
was  boarding  at  a  small  hotel  and  h^ippened  in  the 
bar  room  when  some  men  who  couldn't  were  try- 
ing to  beat  up  the  eggs  for  the  Chri^tra^is  egg  nogg. 
Tfapy  had  the  eggs  in  a  tin  pail  and  eat  by  the  stove 
taking  spells  with  each  other  and  beating  for  all 
that  was  out,  without  the  least  sign  of  success.  As 
soon  as  the  man  saw  what  was  the  matter  he  took 
the  pail,  went  outride  and  set  it  on  the  snow,  and 
in  ten  minutes  h  d  succeeded  in  converting  the 
eggs  into  a  pailful  of  foam,  and  the  men  who  couldo't 
allowed  that  it  was  a  little  trick  worth  knowing. 

Sometimes  the  eggs  can  be  beaten  up  quite  as 
easily  when  warm,  bat  thit  is  when  they  have  lost 
part  of  the  wa^er  they  contain  by  evaporation,  as 
even  ep'gs  in  the  8h?ll  wi'l  do  in  dry  weather,  and 
thus  become  as  thick  as  if  made  cold. 


149. 


Dried  Eggs. 


White  of  eggs  poured  thinly  on  platters  soon 
evaporates  and  becomes  a  powder  like  pulverized 
glass.  This  is  easily  soluble,  even  to  the  touch  of  a 
moist  finger,  can  be  kept  a  long  time  dry  and  then 
dissolved  in  water  and  used  as  well  as  fresh.  If  the 
powder  ( btained  from  two  cups  of  white  of  eggs  be 
diasolved  in  only  one  cup  of  water  it  can  be  beaten 
to  fioth  for  icing,  etc.,  in  a  minute  or  two  whether 
warm  or  cold.  That  is  the  result  of  condensation 
The  yolks  of  eggs  dried  alone  are  not  soluble  bu^ 
the  entire  egg  beaten  together  and  dried  slowly  in 
wUer,  and  mors  npid.y  if  mixed  with  sugar  before 
drying. 

150.  

The  varieties  of  macaroons  "kisses"  and  meringues 

that  might  be  given  would  fill  several  columns,  but 
there  is  no  need  Scores  of  things  of  this  class 
with  imposing  names  are  but  the  variations  played 
upon  the  foundation  of  a  few  simple  and  well  known 
combinations.  Any  one  who  has  made  perfectly  the 
few  vaiieies  we  have  described  can  easily  discover 
new  changes  for  himself.    The  proportion  of  minced 


almonds  in  the  white  macaroons  may  be  doubled ; 
meringues  baked  on  boards  may  be  made  extremely 
email,  placed  two  together  with  a  spot  of  apricot 
Jam  inclosed ;  some  may  be  dredged  while  still  moist 
before  baking  with  chopped  pistachio  nurs,  etc.,  etc. 
These  things  are  not  needed  by  name  to  vary  the 
hotel  bill  of  fare  as  some  other  things  that  we  have 
to  do  with  are,  but  are  always  bunched  together  as 
assorted  cakes,  small  cakes  or  cakes  and  confection- 
eries. The  following  summary  will  have  meaning 
for  those  who  may  have  essayed  the  making  of 
meringues  a  la  creme,  or  macaroons,  and  failed. 

1  pound  of  sugar  and  4  whites  of  eggs  beaten 
with  a  paddle  till  light — about  ^  an  hour — makes  a 
stiff  cake  icing  and  bakes  hard  and  solid  in  the  shape 
it  is  dropped  on  the  pan.  1  pound  of  sugar  and  6 
whites  makes  soft  or  finishifig  icing,  and  bakes  in 
meringues  that  are  partly  hollow  but  still  dry  and 
hard,  rattling  together  like  walnuts.  1  pound  and 
8  whites  makes  the  thin  and  fragile  meringue  we 
have  described  and  the  finer  qualities  of  macaroons, 
and  when  the  paste  beats  up  easily,  as  is  the  case 
when  the  conditions  are  right,  another  white  may  be 
added  with  advantage. 

For  twelve  whites  to  a  pound  whip  the  whites  with 
a  wire  egg  whisk  at  first. 

The  acetic  acid  should  be  added  to  the  icicg  only 
when  it  is  nearly  finished.  Its  effect  in  whitening 
and  stiffening  the  icing  will  be  seen  at  once. 

The  common  trouble  in  making  icing  or  meringue 
paste  is  its  tendency  to  run  out  of  shape  and  drip  off 
the  cakes  covered  with  it.  This  cannot  be  remedied 
by  the  addition  of  more  sugar,  which  indeed  only 
increases  the  trouble,  but  must  be  prevented  by  care 
in  the  beginning,  by  having  the  ingredients  cold  and 
not  damp  and  by  using  enough  sugar  to  the  eggs  at 
starting  to  make  a  stiff  dough  that  can  hardly  be 
stirred,  but  will  get  thinner  as  the  sugar  dissolves, 
and  the  beating  done  must  be  rapid  beating,  not 
stirring  around.  Granulated  sugar  can  be  made  into 
meringues  or  icing  with  more  ease  and  certainty 
than  powdered  sugar. 

The  annexed  are  candies  but  match  well  the  mer- 
ingues and  macaroons,  with  the  drawback,  however, 
of  being  solid  sugar  and  costlier,  for  their  size  than 
the  articles  of  their  list.  These  caramels  sell  well  in 
the  shops. 


Oocoanut  Caramels,  White  and  Red. 

151.  

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  desiccated  cocoanut. 

A  small  half  cupful  of  water. 

Coloring. 

Set  the  sugar  and  water  over  the  fire  in  a  small 
bright  kettle  and  boil  about  5  minues,  or  till  the 
pyrup  bubbles  up  thick  and  ropes  from  the  spoon, 
and  do  not  stir  it.    Then  put  in  the  oocoanut,  stir  to 


40 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


mix,  and  begin  at  once  and  drop  the  candy  by  table 
spoonfuls  on  a  buttered  baking  pan.  Reserve  a  few 
spoonfuls,  make  it  hot  again  and  color  with  cochineal 
and  thin  with  a  spoonful  of  water.  Drop  a  spot  of 
the  red  on  each  of  the  white  caramels.  Should  the 
candy  become  set  in  the  kettle  before  all  is  used  it 
may  be  dissolved  by  adding  a  spoonful  of  water  and 
setting  it  on  the  range  again.  When  fresh  grated 
cocoanut  is  used  the  sugar  needs  to  be  boiled  to  the 
candy  point,  or  3  or  4  minutes  longer. 


The  yolk  of  an  egg  may  be  mixed  with  a  portion 
of  the  ^andy  instead  of  red  coloring  as  above  to 
make  a  yellow  color,  and  melted  chocolate  added  for 
another  variety. 

15S.  

We  set  out  white  cakes,  fruit  cakes,  pound  and 

yeast  raised  cakes,  but  if  we  may  judge  by  the  cri 
terion  of  the  quantity  used  where  people  have  free 
choice,  sponge  cake  and  the  numerous  varieties 
from  the  same  mixture,  all  made  without  butter, 
hold  the  first  place  as  favorites.  Italian  cakes  is  the 
general  term  for  the  class  ;  diet- bread  cake  is  the 
fanciful  name  for  sponge  cake  sometimes  found  in 
old-time  cook-books.  The  loaf  cakes  of  this  sort* 
whether  large  or  small,  are  not  so  good  when  stale, 
and  in  some  large  confectionaries  having  reputations 
to  keep  up,  it  is  made  a  rule  never  to  sell  any  over 
a  day  old  over  the  counter,  but  such  stock  is  disposed 
of  at  a  reduced  rate  to  small  dealers. 

The  good  quality  ol  all  these  varieties  depends 
upon  the  same  precautions  being  observed  as  in  the 
case  of  meringues  and  macaroons,  just  fully  ex- 
plained in  the  preceding  columns. 

153.  

Lady  Fingers  or  Naples  Biscuits. 

8  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 
Quarter  cupful  of  water — J  gill. 

9  eggs. 

10  ounces  of  flour. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  whites  from  the  yolks,  and 
set  the  whites  on  ice  in  a  large  bowl.  Have  the 
flour  also  in  a  cold  place. 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  in  a  deep  bright  saucepan 
over  the  fire,  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  beat 
with  a  wire  egg  whisk  till  the  mixture  is  warm  but 
not  hot — 5  minutes.  Then  set  the  saucepan  in  a 
pan  of  cold  water,  and  continue  beating  15  minutes 
more  till  the  mixture  is  become  cold,  thick  and 
whitish  and  twice  its  original  bulk.  Whip  the  whites 
to  a  firm  froth  that  will  not  fall  out  of  the  bowl  up- 
side down,  and  mix  them  lightly  with  the  other  and 
then  stir  in  the  flour,  also  without  beating,  and  only 
stirred  with  a  spoon  suflBciently  to  hide  it  from 
tight. 


The  above  receipt  is  well  worth  learning  as  it  is 
good  for  a  great  variety  of  Italian  cakes  and  will 
not  have  to  be  repealed  here,  except  as  we  shall 
show  another  v\ay  of  doing  the  same  thing. 


To  form  the  lady.fingers  put  some  of  the  batter 
into  the  forcing  sack  having  a  tin  tube  in  it  from  a 
quarter  to  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  force  it  out 
in  finger  lengths  on  sheets  of  blank  paper,  with  an 
inch  of  space  between  each  one  Sift  powdered 
sugar  plentifully  all  over  them.  Take  hold  of  two 
corners  of  the  sheet  of  paper  (which  may  be  of  half 
newspaper  size)  and  shake  off  the  surplus  sugar  on 
to  the  table,  and  lay  the  sheet  of  cakes  on  a  baking 
pan  placed  readyt  Bake  8  or  10  minutes  in  a  mod- 
etate  oven,  allowing  the  cakes  to  become  no  more 
than  deep  straw  color. 

To  get  the  lady-fingers  off  the  paper  it  is  necessary 
to  lay  the  sheet,  cakes  downwards,  on  a  table  and 
brush  the  paper  over  with  water.  The  cakes  will 
thea  peel  off.  Place  them  two  together.  The  mois- 
ture will  cause  them  to  adhere. 

154.  

Assorted  Italian  Oakes— Six  Ways. 

1.  Sponge  drops:  Proceed  as  for  lady- fingers  and 
drop  the  batter  on  paper  in  round  shape,  large  or 
small;  according  to  fancy. 

2.  Place  fiat  sponge  drops  by  twos  together  with 
jelly  spread  between,  or  lemon  or  orange  paste. 

3.  Have  ready  a  lot  of  sponge  drops.  Make  two 
or  more  colors  and  flavors  of  boiled  icing  or  glaze, 
(directions  for  making  which  have  already  been 
given,)  and  dip  the  bottom  of  each  cake,  holding  it 
on  a  fork,  then  set  the  cakes  on  baking  pans  to  dry. 

4.  Instead  of  dipping  the  bottoms  let  the  tops  of 
the  sponge  drops  receive  the  icing,  and  when  dry 
place  them  by  twos  together  of  different  colors  of 
glaze  with  yellow  orange  paste  or  conserve  between 
them. 

5.  Have  some  finely  minced  almonds,  pistachios, 
hickory  nuts,  or  desiccated  cocoanut  ready  and  mix 
with  the  batter  after  the  manner  of  macaroons  and 
dredge  granulated  sugar  over  the  cakes  instead  of 
powdered  before  baking. 

6.  Instead  of  mixing  the  minced  almonds  in  the 
batter  mingle  powdered  sugar  with  it  and  dredge  it 
over  the  moist  tops  of  the  cakes  before  baking. 

155.  

Small  Savoy  Oakes  or  Savoy  Biscuits. 

Make  the  same  batter  as  for  lady-fingers  and 
flavor  it  with  vanilla.  Bake  it  either  in  small  paper 
ca? es  made  oi  writing  paper,  or  in  jem  or  patty  pans 
fastened  together  by  the  dozen.  Prepare  the  cases 
or  pans  by  brushing  them  over  with  clear  melted 
butler  and  shaking  powdered  sugar  about  in  them 
instead  of  flour  as  with  other  cake3,  and  sift  powd- 
ered sugar  over  the  tops  of  the  cakes  before  baking. 
These  cakes  bake  quickly  and  should  be  light  col- 
ored.   

156.         Savoy  Cake,  Large. 

The  same  as  the  preceding,  baked  in  a  large  or 
fancy  shaped  mold  coated  with  powdered  sugar; 
powdered  sugar  also  sifted  on  top  of  the  cake  form- 
ing a  glazed  surface  when  baked. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


41 


When  we  come  to  examine  thoroughly  the  most 
authoritative,  the  most  noted  and  the  cos'liest  works 
on  cookery  extant,  and  to  sift  their  methods  and 
directions  in  the  full  light  of  a  lifetime's  working 
experience  in  ord  r  to  discover  the  simple  princi- 
ples that  mu««t  underlie  every  successful  method  a 
good  deal  is  revealed  that  looks  like  charlatanry  and 
owlish  pretense. 

In  this  little  matter  of  Italian  cakes,  to  look  at 
the  imposing  lists  of  varieties,  each  with  its  name, 
its  own  set  of  weights  and  proportions  and  mode  of 
procjdure,  one  would  think  it  would  take  about  a 
century  to  learn  them  all,  but  when  we  know  in  ad- 
vance that  every  one  must  rest  upon  the  simple 
sponge  cake  mixture  however  well  disguised  we  are 
acquainted  with  (he  whole  of  them  already.  The 
standard  sponge  cake  mixture,  as  it  may  fairly  be 
called,  is  1  pound  of  sugar,  12  eggs  and  12  ou  ces 
of  flour.  The  nature  of  the  ingredients  will  not 
admit  of  a  deviation  of  over  an  ounce  or  two.  But 
if  in  writing  a  receipt  we  designate  say  three-fifths 
of  Ihese  proportions  cf  each  article,  and  for  the  next 
variety  two-fifths  or  two-thirds  or  one-half,  the  only 
difference  in  result  will  be  in  the  number  of  cakes 
produced,  but  the  unfamiliar  weights  and  numbers 
make  it  appear  on  the  surface  as  if  each  variety  had 
an  entirely  different  composition. 


The  work  that  the  head  of  either  culinary  depart- 
ment of  a  hotel  can  actually  do  with  his  own  hands 
must  be  but  a  small  portion  of  the  whole,  and  how- 
ever skillful  he  may  be  he  must  be  largely  dependent 
upon  his  assistants  for  the  general  excellence  of  his 
department.  But  these  assistants  cannot  know  and 
are  not  expected  to  leirn  a  different  formula  for 
every  different  thing  they  are  required  to  make.  Th'^ 
head  mnn  will  get  the  more  help  from  those  working 
under  him  the  more  he  can  simplify  the  processes 
he  gives  them  to  carry  out. 

The  receipt  already  given  under  the  head  of  Naples 
biscuits  is  a  good  one,  but  it  is  only  spo  ge  cake 
mixture  at  last,  and  there  is  a  simpler  way  that  may 
be  intrusted  to  the  boys  with  perfect  safety  to  make 
all  the  varieties  of  Italian  cakes  that  are  at  all  neces 
sary  or  desirable,  and  that  is  only  to  make  common 
sponge  cake  batter  in  a  plain  and  common  way. 


15Y. 


Spon&re  Cake. 


14  ounces  of  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

12  ounces  of  flour. 

Put  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  in  a  kettle,  tin 
pail,  or  deep  pan,  set  in  a  vessel  of  ice  water  and 
beat  the  mixture  rapidly  f  r  half  an  hour  by  the 
clock  Then  lightly  s*ir  in  the  flour.  If  the  beat- 
ing be  fiithful  y  perform-^d  this  sponge  cike  batter 
can  be  used  to  make  lady-fingers,  savoy  cike3,  plain 
ung'azed  e po-^ge  cakes,  jelly  rolls  and  the  ha-f  dozen 
varieties  of  Italian  small  ekes  alre-.dy  described. 


One  day  one  of  my  boys  showed  me  such  an  as!»ort- 
ment  as  the  above  all  made  out  of  a  kettle  of  sponge 
cake  batter  4  times  the  quan  ity  of  the  receipt,  and 
when  (hey  hive  been  approved,  with  a  sly  look  he 
said:  "  But  I  was  late  and  only  beat  the  eggs  and 
sugar  20  minutes." 

«'  Your  ingredients  were  in  good  condition  and  the 
atmosphere  is  dry  and  cold.  There  are  exceptions 
to  every  rule,  but  yoi*.  must  work  by  the  rule  and  not 
the  excepti>n.  Besides  there  ia  a  good  deal  in 
knowing  how  to  beat  effectively." 


168. 


Butter  Spongfe  Oake. 


1  pound  cf  granulated  sugar. 

10  eggs. 

8  Of  10  ounces  of  butter. 

1  cupful  of  milk — J  pint. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
1^  pounds  of  flour. 

Beat  the  sugir  and  eggs  together  a  few  minutes 
as  if  for  sponge  cake,  melt  the  butter  and  beat  it  in, 
add  the  milk,  then  the  powder  and  then  the  flour 
and  stir  up  well.     Flavor  if  desired. 

If  I  had  to  lose  the  knowledge  of  all  kinds  of  cakes 
but  one  I  should  choose  the  above.  It  is  compara- 
tive'y  cheap;  when  fresh  it  is  as  good  as  any,  and 
answers  more  purposes  than  any  other  mixture 
made.  In  the  exigencies  that  often  overtake  us  when 
the  hctel  business  is  good,  I  have  frequently  begun 
when  the  doors  were  just  opened  for  dinner,  and 
had  large  sheets  of  this  light  cake  1  or  2  inches 
thick  and  nicely  glazed  with  sugar  baked  on  top 
ready  to  send  in  when  the  plates  were  changed 
either  as  pudding  or  cake — about  25  minutes  from 
the  time  of  beginning— which  could  not  be  done 
with  any  richer  mixture. 


150.   White  Butter  Sponge  Oake. 


The  same  as  the  preceding  made  with  the  surplus 
white  of  eggs  often  lefc  over  from  salad  making,  etc. 
Use  1  pound  of  whiles  instead  of  the  10  eggs  and 
add  an  ounce  more  butter.  . 

It  makes  jelly  cakes;  may  have  raisins  or  currants 
mixed  in,  and  if  made  cold  enough  to  keep  shape 
makes  very  fair  sponge  drops  or  other  small  cakes. 
It  is  the  best  also  for  the  f-llowing. 

160.  

Oream  Oake  or  "Washington  Pie  *' 

Bake  (he  butter  sponge  cake  on  jelly  cake  pans, 
quite  thin,  and  place  two  sheets  together  with  pastry 
cream  thickly  spread  between.  The  pastry  cream  is 
the  same  that  is  used  to  fill  cream  pufts,  which  see 
or  index. 


161.     Oorn  Starch  Blanc  Mange. 

2  quarts  of  milk  and  a  cupful  mere. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 


42 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


-^ 


6  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

A  pinch  of  salt.    Flavoring. 

Boll  the  milk  with  the  eugnr  in  it.  Mix  the  starch 
with  the  extra  cup  cf  milk,  stir  it  in  and  let  cook 
a  few  minutes.  Take  from  the  fire,  be  t  in  the  but 
ter  to  whi'en  it,  flavor,  and  put  the  blai  c  mange 
immediately  into  custord  cups  previous'y  wet  with 
water.  When  cold  take  it  "but  of  the  cups  and  serve 
cither  wi*h  a  little  tiweeteced  cream,  or  iruii,  or  fruit 
jelly.  Infetead  of  cups  it  may  be  spread  in  bright 
pans,  cut  ia  square  blocks  and  served  with  the 
smooth  bjttom  side  up. 


io;3. 


Corn  Starch  Jelly. 


This  can  be  very  nice  when  ricely  made ;  if  not 
made  sour  and  harsh  wi<h  too  much  lemon  nor  hard 
and  opaque  with  too  much  etarch. 

1  quart  of  water  and  a  half  pint  over. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  small  lemon, 

3  ouncs  of  corn  starch — 3  heaping  tablespoonfuls. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  sugar  in  it  aod  add  to  it 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  about  half  the  rind 
shaved  off  thin  and  cut  in  small  pieces.  Mix  the 
starch  with  the  extra  cup  of  witer,  stir  it  into  the 
boiling  syrup  and  let  boil  slowly  for  about  10  min- 
utes to  lose  its  milky  appearance  and  become  almost 
clear.  Pour  it  into  custard  cups  or  any  kind  of 
molds.  Serve  in  saucers  with  a  sf  oonful  oi  sweet- 
ened cream  whipped  to  froth.  This  jelly  looks  bet, 
ter  if  colored  either  with  burnt  sugar  or  like  the 
following  kind. 


1G3. 


Tapioca  Jelly. 


1  quart  of  raspberry  or  other  fruit  juice  strained. 

1  cupful  of  water. 
12  ounces  of  sugar, 
4  ounces  of  tapioca. 

Crush  the  tapioca,  if  the  large  kind,  by  rolliog  it, 
and  steep  it  2  hours  in  the  water  and  some  cf  the 
fruit  juic?.  Boil  the  rest  of  the  raspberry  juice 
wih  the  sugar  in  i%  adl  the  steepecj  tapioc*  and  let 
simmer  15  minutes  or  more.  Put  it  in  cups  or  other 
molds  ard  serve  it  cold  with  a  spoonful  of  'roYk.  cf- 
egg  custard  i.\  the  saucer,  or  with  whipped  cream. 
This  can  a'so  be  m^de  with  water  and  flavorings,  as 
directed  for  corn  starch  jelly, 

164.        Gelatine  Blanc  Mange. 

2  quarts  of  rich  milk, 
12  ounces  of  sugtr. 

2  ounces  ot  gelatine. 

Flavorings. 

1  small  cupful  of  cream  to  whiten  it. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fire  in  a  bright  kettle  with 
the  sugar  and  gelatine  in  it,  and  stir  them  occasion* 
ally  with  a  wire  egg  beater  till  the  gelatine  is  all 


dissolved,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  lest  the  milk  curdle. 
Strain  it  into  a  pan  and  set  away  to  cool.  After  it 
hascool.d  tt  r  ia  the  flavoring- -lemon,  vanilla,  al. 
mond,  cinnamon  or  any  other — and  the  cup  of  cream. 
Pour  it  into  molds  or  custard  cups,  cr  an  inch  deep 
in  milk  pans,  to  be  cut  when  set,  in  squares  or  dia- 
monds and  served  with  cream  cr  diluted  fruit  jelly. 

The  foregoing  is  the  basis  of  several  kinds  of 
creams  to  ba  described  further  on,  and  will  be  re- 
ferred to  and  not  repeattd. 

A  useful  rule  to  keep  in  mind  is — IJ  ounces  of 
gelatine  to  a  quart  of  water  for  jeliy,  etc.,  but  1 
ounce  only  to  a  quart  of  milk. 

Cooper's  sheet  gelatine  sells  at  about  half  the  price 
of  the  imported  kinds;  it  is  tasteless  and  as  good  as 
any  except  that  is  liable  to  curdle  the  milk  on  actual 
boiling.  The  transparent  ge  amines  or  isinglass,  on 
the  other  hand,  are  as  liable  to  burn  on  the  bottom 
and  are  troublesome  to  dissolve. 

105.  

Condensing  Milk  for  Blanc-Mangers  and 
Creams. 


Skimmed  milk  which  is  superabundant  in  many 
hotels  cr\n  be  immensely  improved  for  the  pastry 
cook's  purposes  by  condensation.  No  process  is  re- 
quired  but  to  set  4  quarts  cf  milk  on  the  range  in  a 
shallow  pan  with  the  sugar  in  it  that  is  required  f .r 
2  quarts — probably  12  ounces — and  let  the  milk  sim. 
mer  till  reduced  to  2  quirts.  The  cheesy  coating 
that  forms  on  boiling  milk  will  not  appear  on  that 
which  has  sugar  in  it. 


160. 


Jaune  Mange. 


The  blanc  mange  of  the  preceding  receipt  with  6 
yolks  of  eggs  b  aten  in  after  the  gelatine  is  dissolved 
and  jufet  before  taking  from  the  fire. 

Divide  the  bltnc  mange  and  color  only  half  of  if 
ye-low  with  3  or  4  yolks,  and  thus  have  two  colort 
cut  in  Hmall  blocks  to  serve  in  the  same  saucers. 
Jaune  is  yellow,  as  blanc  is  white. 


lOT.  Almond  Cream  Blanc  Mange. 

1  pouud  of  sweet  almonds. 

2  ounces  of  bitter  almonds  or  peach  kernels, 
1  pouud  of  sug^r, 

1  quart  of  cold  water. 

2  ( unces  of  gefatine. 

1  small  cupful  of  cream. 

Boil  the  almonds  2  minutes,  then  take  off  the  skins 
and  pound  them  a  few  at  a  time  in  a  mortar,  adding 
a  little  Eugar  and  a  spoonful  of  water  occasionally. 
Put  the  a'mond  paste  in  a  bowl  with  the  rest  of  the 
sugar  and  water  and  let  steep  a  while.  Dissolve 
the  gelatine  in  a  little  warm  water,  add  it  to  the 
milk-of-almonds,  the  cup  of  cream  likewise  and 
strain  through  a  napkin  with  pressurr-.  Set  the 
blanc  mange  in  molds  on  ice. 


THE  AMEBICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


48 


168.    Floatingr  Islands. 

ijL  good  general  bill  of  fare  name  for  a  number  of 
useful  trifles  cold  for  dessert  that  are  alike  only  in 
being  something  afloat  in  a  sauce. 

1.  "Whipped  Syllabub"  or  "Trifle:"  An  orna- 
mental bowl  of  whipped  cream  flavored  with  wine, 
with  a  cake  in  it. 

3  pints  of  sweet  cream. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  madeira  or  raisin  wine 

2  thin  jelly  cakes  size  of  saucers. 

Put  the  jelly  cakes  in  2  glass  bowls.  Whip  the 
sweetened  and  flavored  cream  with  a  whip — churn 
till  half  of  it  is  froth.  Pour  the  fluid  portion  into 
the  bowls,  pile  the  froth  on  top,  and  drop  spots  of 
red  jeliy  or  of  cream,  colored  before  churning,  all 
over  the  surface — "Missis  Jane"  will  dip  it  out  with 
a  silver  ladle,  at  the  head  of  the  table. 

2.  Italian  cakes  spread  with  jelly  floating  in 
wine  custard,  with  whipped  cream  on  top. 

2  quarts  of  boiled  custard  flavored  with  a  cupful 
of  maraschino. 

40  or  50  sponge  drops  spread  with  jelly. 

1  cupful  of  thick  cream. 

Make  the  sponge  drops  as  directed  for  lady-fingers, 
with  a  crisp  stgar  coating  on  top.  Spread  jelly  on 
the  bottoms  and  drop  them,  with  the  jelly  side 
uppermost^  in  saucers  nearly  filled  with'  the  maras- 
chino custard.  Whip  the  cream  a  little  at  a  time  as 
wanted  fur  filling  the  orders  and  place  a  spoonful  on 
each  float  as  they  are  sent  in. 

3.  The  preceding  kind  can  be  made  cheaper  with 
plain  boiled  custard  and  thin  sheets  of  cake  cut  in 
small  squares.  All  the  varieties  must  be  very  cold 
to  be  good. 

4.  Place  4  or  more  lady-fingers,  made  small  for 
the  purpose  and  not  doubled  two  together,  ends 
downwards  in  jel'y  glasses,  and  pile  upon  them  some 
wine  flavored  whipped  cream. 

6.    Snow  Eggs.    Eggs  a  la  Neige.     Snow  Balls: 

12  whites  of  eggs. 

1  or  2  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

Flavoring. 

1  quart  of  rich  yolk-of-egg  custard  cold.  Have  a 
pan  of  boiling  milk  and  water  ready  in  the  oven. 
Let  the  whites  of  eggs  be  cold  to  begin  with.  Whip 
them  firm,  add  the  sugar,  then  drop  egg  shaped  por- 
tions with  a  wet  spoon  into  the  boiling  milk  and 
water,  and  let  them  cook  a  few  minutes  with  the 
oven  door  open.  They  may  either  be  turned  over 
■with  a  skimmer  when  half  done  or  allowed  to  acquire 
some  color  on  top  like  other  meringues.  If  cooked 
too  long  these  will  shrink  to  almost  nothing.  Too 
much  sugar  likewise  will  spoil  them.  Srrve  them 
cold  in  a  saucer  of  custird.  These  egg  floats  are 
very  old  favorites.  They  may  be  variously  flavored, 
and  may  have  an  ounce  of  melted  common  chocolate 


mixed  with  the  whites  while  beating  to  make  choco- 
late  float. 

6.  Make  2  quarts  of  boiled  custard,  set  in  the 
oven,  after  letting  it  cool  a  little,  and  drop  meringue, 
the  same  that  is  spread  over  lemon  piep,  by  spoonfuls 
all  over  the  top.  Let  the  meriigue  dy  bake  with 
the  oven  door  open  6  or  8  minutts,  then  set  the  pan 
away  to  get  cold  before  serving.  Dish  up  custard 
and  a  spoonful  of  the  meringue  in  saucers.  Care  is 
required  not  to  let  the  custard  cook  too  much  while 
the  meringue  is  baking.  The  pan  maybe  set  in 
another  pan  of  water  not  boiling. 

169,     Snow  Float. 


Snow  Pudding.  Lemon  Snow.  Lemon  Sponge. 
Mont  Blanc,  etc  ,  etc  ,  or  Russian  Jelly. 

2  quarts  of  water. 

4  ounces  scant  of  gelatine. 

2  pounds  of  sugar. 

6  lemons— juice  of  all,  rinds  of  2  or  3. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  lemon  rinds  and  squeeze  the  juice  into 
the  sugar  in  a  kettle,  add  the  water  and  gelatine,  set 
the  kettle  over  the  fire  and  beat  the  C3ntent8  fre- 
quently till  the  gelatine  is  all  dissolved,  which  will 
be  at  about  the  boiling  point.  Strain  it  into  an  ice 
cream  freezer  or  other  vessel  set  in  ice  water,  and 
when  the  jelly  has  become  nearly  cold  beat  it  with 
a  wire  egg  whisk  till  frothy  a  d  almost  whi  e.  Then 
whip  the  whites  of  eggs  firm,  stir  them  in  and  beat 
the  whole  again  till  it  is  set,  when  it  will  be  like 
snow. 

Make  a  yellow  custard  with  a  quart  of  milk,  8 
yolks  and  4  ounces  of  sugar,  and  flavor,  and  serve 
i£  in  the  sancers  with  a  spoonful  of  the  float,  ice 
cold. 


Articles  like  the  foregoing  come  in  serviceably 
when,  as  so  often  happens  there  is  no  milk  to  be  had, 
for  even  the  custards  to  go  with  them  can  be  made 
with  water. 

For  a  yellow  variety  of  the  Russian  jelly  or  gela- 
tine float,  when  it  is  just  at  the  boiling  point  stir  in 
the  yolks  of  8  or  10  eggs  quickly  and  take  the  jelly 
from  the  fire  immediately  before  ihey  become  cooked. 
Flavor  with  lemon  extract  if  necessary  and  beat  it 
up  without  the  addition  of  white  of  eggf. 

Race  ginger  boiled  in  the  jelly  makes  another 
kind.  It  should  be  colored  with  burnt  sugar  and 
beaten  up  like  the  snow  float. 

Lemon  juice  more  or  less  is  essential  in  them  all 
to  correct  the  taste  of  gelatine. 

A  spoonful  of  whipped  cream  can  be  served  with 
the  floats  instead  of  custard. 

Snow  float  that  is  left  over  is  all  ready  to  be  boiled 
and  run  through  the  jelly  bag  to  make  wine  jelly  of 
the  clearest  for  the  next  day  The  white  of  egg  in 
it  clarifies  it  and  then  its  strained  out. 


44 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Why  do  fifteen  families,  numbering  seventy-five 
souls,  have  fifteen  very  poor  cooks  preparing  fifteen 
very  poor  dinners  over  fifteen  different  fires  vfhen, 
if  they  were  all  together,  two  skillful  cooks  with  a 
helpei  and  a  man  in  the  yard  and  two  fires  ould 
prepare  a  most  excellent  dinner  at  less  cost  for  them 
all? 


170.    Fruit  Jelly  Floats. 

Good  firm  jellies  of  fruits  can  be  beaten  partially 
light  after  the  manner  of  the  gelatine  kinds  pre- 
ceding, and  whipped  whites  of  eggs  can  be  beaten  in 
as  a  finish.  Take  quince,  peich,  currant,  or  other 
jelly  that  is  hard  enough  to  cut  with  a  knife  and 
warm  it  sufficiently  to  beit.  Set  the  bowl  contain- 
ing it  in  a  pan  of  ice  water  to  cool  it  while  beating, 
and  to  ^  pint  of  jelly  allow  J  pound  of  powdered 
sugar.  When  light  add  the  whipped  whites  of  6 
eggs.  Beat  5  minutes  more.  Keep  cold.  Serve  in 
saucers  of  cream. 


Why  do  fifteen  families  require  as  many  persons 
to  do  the  marketing  for  them,  trusting  to  the 
butchers  and  bakers  and  others  for  the  weights 
and  measures,  and  trusting  to  luck  for  the  quality 
of  things  bought  because  the  qualities  are  too  small 
to  be  worth  a  person's  attention,  when,  if  all  were 
together,  one  buyer  could  buy  better  for  them  all  at 
once,  aided  by  acquired  judgment  and  knowledge  of 
goods  and  prices,  and  scales,  weights,  measures  and 
books? 

171.    Apple  Float. 


1  pound  of  fine,  mealy  cooking  apples  pared  and 
quartered. 
Half  cup  of  water. 
1  lemon. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

2  whole  eggs  and  6  whites. 
Clove  or  cinnamon  extract. 

Stew  the  apples  with  the  water^  sugar,  lemon  juice 
and  shaved  or  grated  rind  and  the  butter,  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  lid,  till  they  are  tender.  Rub  the 
pulp  through  a  seive.  Add  the  2  eggs  and  cook  the 
mixture  5  or  10  minutes  till  thick.  Then  cool, 
flavor,  beat  light  and  add  the  6  whites  of  eggs  whip, 
ped  firm  and  beat  5  minutes  more.  Keep  cold. 
Serve  ia  saucers  of  custard. 


And  why  do  fifteen  families  living  separately  have 
fifteen  small  portions  going  to  waste  when,  if  all 
Were  together,  the  small  portions  in  the  hands  of  a 
skillful  cook  would  make  a  dish  of  which  nearly  all 
would  partake  and  save  a  large  item  in  the  marke'- 


172.    Baked  Ooooanut  Oustard* 


2  quarts  of  milk. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

Butter  size  of  a  guinea  egg—l  oz. 

8  eggs. 

8  ounces  of  desiccated  oocoanut. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it.  Mix  the 
starch  in  a  bowl  with  a  liitle  cold  milk,  add  it  to  the 
milk  on  the  fire  and  take  off"  immediately  with<"ut 
waiting  for  it  to  boil  again.  Beat  in  the  butter, 
then  the  eggs,  about  half  the  cocoanut,  and  pour  the 
custard  into  two  buttered  pans  where  it  will  be  only 
an  inch  de?p.  Sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  cocoanut 
over  the  tops,  and  a  little  sugar  over  that  and  bake 
10  or  15  minutes  till  set  and  of  a  yellow  color  on 
top.  Must  be  cold  to  serve.  May  have  a  spoonful 
of  sweetened  cream  in  the  saucers. 


And  when  the  ice  supply  is  exhausted  and  the 
delicious  ice  creams  a^.d  water  ices  which  the  fifteen 
families  have  learned  to  prize  above  all  the  other 
contrivances  for  dessert  suddenly  fail  to  appear, 
why  must  fifteen  persons  at  least  worry  over  the 
situation  and  spend  the  days  in  unquietness  conjur- 
ing up  cold  dishes  that  shall  almost  fill  the  ices' 
place,  when  one  person  making  a  trade  of  such 
knowledge  could  satisfy  them  all  without  eflfort? 


173.    Peaches  and  Cream. 

The  harder  kinds  of  peaches  should  be  chopped 
to  the  size  of  strawberries  and  mixed  with  sugar  2 
or  3  hours  before  the  meal.  Allow  about  4  ounces 
of  sugar  to  a  quart.  Soft  peaches,  after  peeling, 
are  best  only  quartered  or  E>liced.  If  admissible 
serve  them  ia  large  glass  bowls  ornamented  with 
quarters  of  red  or  yellow  peaches  placed  in  order 
and  a  pitcher  of  cream  with  each  bowl  separately. 
If  served  individually  in  saucers  pour  the  cream 
over  only  as  they  are  dished  up. 


Once  we  read  in  the  Atlantic Monthli/  a  series  of  ar- 
ticles in  which  all  such  questions  as  the  preceding  were 
asked  with  the  intent  of  advising  a  system  of  co- 
operative housekeeping  under  which  the  fifteen 
household  martyrs,  one  for  each  of  the  said  fifleen 
families,  instead  of  all  suffering  at  once  sh  uld  take 
turn  and  turn  about  doing  the  work  of  each  depart- 
ment far  the  entire  co-operating  community,  It  is 
a  good  many  years  ago,  but  we  remember  thinking 
then  that  the  only  practicable  form  of  co-operative 
housekeeping  is  the  American  hotel  system,  modi- 
fied perhaps  in  the  matters  of  ^ider  separation  of 
rooms  and  of  individual  freedom. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


174.    Strawberries  and  Cream. 

It  generally  mellows  and  improves  the  fruit  to  let 
it  remain  covered  with  sugar  in  a  old  place  a  short 
time  before  serving.  Serve  same  as  peaches  and 
cream. 

Strawberries,  raspberries  and  peaches  in  sugar 
served  in  saucers  of  ice  cream  must  be  mentioned 
also  as  the  great  public  festival  delicacies  of  the 
season  of  fruits.  For  ice  creams,  either  pure  cream, 
ordinary,  or  corn  starch  creams  see  index. 

For  the  co-operative  housekeeping  idea  has  the 
defect  of  leaving  out  the  power  of  discharging  in- 
competents. Under  the  hotel  system  when  dfflculties 
arise  the  heads  of  departments  will  make  almost 
superhuman  efforts  and  accomplish  almost  impossi 
bilities,  partly  because  of  the  pecuniary  value  of 
their  positions  but  more  on  account  cf  the  reputation 
for  eflSciency  to  be  m  ide  or  maired.  But  no  c  )• 
operative  could  be  a  good  cook,  for  example,  who 
should  be  in  office  only  one  week  and  out  four,  and 
did  not  care  much  for  the  office  anyway  There  are 
a  thousand  rocks  on  which  such  a  community  would 
split  up,  like  the  following. 

176.    Strawberry  Shortcake. 


Scarcely  two  families  or  two  persons  make  this 
alike  or  believe  any  other  person's  way  ij  the  best. 

We  are  not  going  to  lay  down  any  rule,  but  as 
long  as  people  are  asked  which  part  of  a  turkey  they 
they  prefer,  or  how  they  will  have  their  beefsteak 
cooked  we  expect  to  ask  them  how  they  have  their 
strawberry  shortcake  made. 

The  bakers  and  confectioners,  who  often  sell  large 
quantities  generally  mike  laycs  of  sweet  cake  such 
as  the  butter  sponge  cake,  and  place  3  of  the  sheets 
with  sweetened  strawberries  between. 

But  plenty  of  people  say  that  is  not  right,  but 
what  can  you  expect  the  bakers  lo  know  about  home 
doings,  and  they  make  a  rich  flaky  sort  of  biscuit 
dough  with  a  good  deal  of  shortening  in  and  bake  a 
large  round  cake  big  as  a  dinner  plate,  split  it  open 
and  place  a  plenty  of  strawberries  between  the  two 
halves. 

And  there  are  others,  whose  tastes  have  become 
Titiated  through  the  enjoyment  of  the  best  hotel 
pies,  who  say  the  foregoing  kind  of  short  ca'<e  is 
too  poor  and  they  want  their  short  cake  to  be  short, 
so  they  have  the  best  light  and  dry  puff  pastp,  or 
the  trimmings  of  it  wh  ch  have  been  rolled  more, 
rolled  out  thin  on  jelly  cake  pans,  nicely  baked, 
rather  dry  and  crispy,  and  strawberries  with  their 
sugary  syrup  spread  plentifully  between  two,  and 
powdered  sugar  on  lop. 

But  even  after  these  wnys  have  been  tried  there 
remain  the  weighty  que  tions  of  whether  after  straw- 
berries have  been  spread  between  there  shou'd  also 
be  more  strawberries  on  the  top,  and  whether  the 


short  cake  of  biscuit  dough  should  be  buttered  before 
being  berried,  ar  d  whether  the  berries  may  have 
cr  am  mixed  with  tliem  or  whether  c  eam  is  to  be 
served  with  the  6hortc«ke.  In  short,  to  quote  the 
words  of  the  song,  'How  do  you  like  your  shortcake 
done?" 

The  best  kind  of  flaky  light  dough  will  be  found 
in  the  receipt  for  roly-poly  puddings.  It.  is  made 
with  half  the  pie-pa-te  quantity  of  butter  and  half 
baking  powder,  rolled  in. 

177.    Bavarian  Oream. 


1 J  pints  of  milk. 

1^  pints  of  thict  cream, 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  gelatine — full  weight. 

1  cupful  or  leas  of  maraschino. 

Set  the  milk  ovor  the  fire  with  the  sug4r  nnd  gel- 
atine in  it  a'  d  s'ir  till  the  gt^lstine  i^  all  dissolved — 
nearly  at  the  boili'^g  point.  Then  strain  it  into  an 
ice  c"eim  freezer  se*^^  in  ice  water  and  let  it  get 
nearly  cold.  Whip  the  cream  to  froth.  Beat  the 
milk  in  the  frrezT  likewise  and  then  mix  the  two 
and  continue  be -ting  till  the  Bivarian  is  a  delicate 
while  sponge,  and  mix  ia  the  maraschino  while 
beating. 

178.  Thfse  creams  are  the  most  acceptable  of  all 
the  substitutes  for  ice  ere  m,  and  have  the  advantage 
tfeat  they  can  be  s  t  in  molds,  and  different  sorts 
placed  on  a  set  table  at  the  same  time,  or  a  mold 
entire  serv.d  at  a  family  tab'e  For  hotel  tervice  it 
is  generally  brst  to  serve  them  out  of  ihe  ffcezer  ia 
saucers  with  whipped  cream  or  fruit.  They  then 
appear  on  the  bill  of  fare  as : 

Mara  chino  Bavarian  Cream. 

B-ivari<in  C^eam  wi  h  Corapole  of  Pears,— or  with 
grapes,  white  cherries,  or  with  strawberri'-s  not 
cooked;  the  comnotes  of  course  to  be  ice  cold,  a 
spoonful  served  like  a  sauce  with  the  white  cream. 

179,    Bavarian  Oream  Oheap<^'' 


3  pints  of  rich  milk. 

1  cupful  of  cream. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  gelatine. 
6  whites  of  eggs. 
Flavoring. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fi'-e  with  the  sugar  and  gel- 
atine in  it  and  stir  tiil  the  gelatine  is  all  dissolved. 
Do  not  let  it  boil  Strain  into  a  freezer  placed  in 
ice  water  and  when  nearly  cold  enough  to  set  add 
the  cup  of  creana,  beat  10  minutes,  whip  the  6 
whites  firm,  stir  that  in  and  beat  the  cream  5  min- 
utes more.  Flavor  while  beating  with  lemon, vanilla, 
almond,  or  other  extract,  instead  of  miraschino. 


46 


THE  AMEKICAN  PASTKY  COOK. 


King  Louis  did  not  keep  hia  huge  establishments 
for  profit  and  made  hia  Bavarian  bbout  like  this — 
quite  costly  :  1  quart  of  double  cream,  2\  ounces  of 
gelatine,  6  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  1  cup  of  milk, 
J  cup  of  noyan  or  other  liqueur.  Dissolve  the  gela- 
tine in  the  milk  in  a  varm  place.  Put  the  sugir  in 
the  cream,  "whip  it  to  froth,  drain  the  froth  and  whip 
again  what  drip"?  through.  Put  back  in  the  pan 
pour  the  dissolved  gelatine  to  the  whipped  crjfra  a 
little  at  a  time,  add  fhe  flavor  and  put  the  cream  in 
molds  slightly  oiled  with  sweet  oil  and  set  ot  ice. 
This,  it  may  be  observed,  is  barely  one  r3move  from 
the  iced  froths  notised  nmong  th  ?  ice«".  The  froth  is 
congealed  by  means  of  geUtine  very  cjld  instead  cf 
frost,  and  might  be  in  glasses  as  well. 


180.    Strawberry  Bavarian  Oream 


BAVAaVOISE  AUX  FOAISES. 


1  quart  of  double  cream. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  quart  of  strawberries. 

2^  ounces  cf  gelatine. 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  of  the  cream 
with  as  much  milk  added  to  thin  it.  Rub  the  straw- 
berriea  through  a  sdve,  and  add  half  the  sugir  to 
them.  Whip  the  cream  with  the  rest  of  the  sugir 
in  it  to  froth,  mix  in  the  dissolved  gelatine,  then  the 
strawberry  syrup  and  set  ia  molds. 


181     Another  Way. 

Line  j'-lly  molds  with  strawberries  dipped  in 
melted  jel'y  to  make  them  stick,  and  the  molds  eet 
in  ice  water.  When  set  firm  fill  the  lined  molds 
with  either  of  the  foregoing  Bavarian  creams. 

182     Komau  Oream. 


I  quart  of  milk, 

10  ounces  cf  suga*. 

1|  ounces  of  gelatine — good  weight. 

Piece  of  st'ck  cinnamon. 

1  cupful  of  thick  cream. 

12  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  curacao,  or  Madeira  wine. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fire  and  put  in  a  piece  of 
thick  cinnamon,  the  sugar  and  gelatine  and  stir  till 
the  gelatine  ia  all  dissolved  Be;it  the  yolks  light 
and  pour  the  milk  just  about  at  the  boiling  point  to 
them.  Set  on  the  fire  Rgain  for  a  minute  but  do  not 
let  it  boil.  Strain  into  a  freezer  set  in  ice  water. 
When  nearly  cold  enonjrh  to  pet  whip  the  cupful  of 
oream  and  beat  it  in  and  fdd  the  caracao.  T&is  is  a 
fine  dusky  yellow  cre.im  light  and  spongy,  that  falls 
apart  in  the  saucers  of  its  own  weiglit. 

183.  The  particular  touch  about  all  of  these 
creams  is  the  gettiug  along  with  the  smallest  possi- 
ble quantity  of  gelatine.    They  are  quite  another 


thing  and  are  not  really  good  when  made  firm  and 
tough  with  it.  The  object  of  the  gelatine  is  to  give 
consistency  enough  to  the  milk  to  allow  it  to  become 
spongy  when  b  aten  like  whippe  I  cre^m.  This  also 
necessitates  the  creams  b  ing  served  very  cold,  a 
point  on  which  their  excellence  a'so  greatly  depends 


184.    Italian  Cream. 

Only  another  name  for  R  man  cream.  The  fol 
lowing  U  the  form  with  pure  cream  which,  if  it 
were  the  only  way  would  genera- 'y  prec'ude  its 
appearance  at  hote^  tables  The  Italians  themselves 
line  to  flavor  it  strongly  with  rum  and  add  ground 
cinnamon  till  it  look*?  brown, 

1  quart  of  cream  to  boil, 

1  pint  of  d  uble  c  earn  to  whip  cold, 

1  pound  of  sugr. 
16  yolks  of  eggs. 

2  ounces  of  gelatine. 

Stick  of  cinnamon  and  piece  of  orange  peel. 

Curacai  or  sherry  or  Madeira  to  flnvor. 

Put  the  gelitiue  in  a  cup  cf  milk  in  a  warm  place 
to  dissolve  sora^  time  bef  <re  wanted.  Boil  the  quart 
uf  creim  with  the  sugar,  cinr^amon  and  orange  peel 
ia  it.  Beat.  iLc  yolks  and  pour  them  to  the  boiling 
cream  and  immediately  take  off  and  etraia  into  a 
freezer  surrounded  with  ice  water.  When  nearly 
cold  pour  in  the  dissolved  gelatine  and  beat  up 
light,  then  whip  the  pint  of  double  cream  to  froth 
and  stir  it  in  and  lastly  the  liqueur. 

We  will  point  out  here  that  all  of  our  own  ways, 
which  we  call  hotel  ways,  being  sh  »rt  and  direct, 
dispense  wi  h  the  separate  dissolving  of  the  gelatine, 
which  is  really  a  troublesome  and  time  consuming 
little  matter.  ^^  e  dissolve  it  ia  the  milk  or  cream 
on  the  fire,  without  evei  a  previous  steeping.  Still 
if  we  hsppen  to  drop  into  the  work-rcon;s  of  some 
restaurant  Francaise  we  shall  find  them  proceeding 
in  a  difierent  manner,  and  such  reoeipts  as  the  last 
serve  to  show  what  that  manner  is. 


185.    Italian   Cream  with   Compote  of 
Figs 

Cut  a  pound  of  fig«i  into  small  pieces  and  one  or 
two  lemons  likewise  and  stew  them  ti  gether  with 
sugar  and  water.  Make  the  compote  ice  cold  and 
serve  it  a  spoonful  in  each  saucer  with  the  Roman 
or  Italian  cr<»am.  A  compote  of  fruit  is  fruit  stewec? 
in  a  thick  rich  syrup. 

186.    Rocky  Mountain  Oream. 


Make  Bavarian  cream,  about  half  the  quantity  of 
the  first  Bavarian  receipt,  alvo  prepare  ab  ut  a  pint 
of  sweet  green  muscatel  grapes,  and  enough  of 
bright  cleir  jellies  cut  in  dice  to  make  another  pint. 
When  the  cream  is  finished  beating  and  about  to  set 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


47 


firm  mix  in  the  grapes  and  jellies  lightly  without 
breaking  them,  and  pour  into  a  bright  milk  pan 
where  it  will  be  about  1 J  inches  deep.  Shal  e  and 
smooth  it  down  and  set  on  ice  Wh?,a  to  bo  served 
cut  acr'  S8  in  strips  2  inches  wide.  Cut  these  again 
in  triangle  shapes.  Place  the  piece  in  the  paucer 
with  the  point  upwards,  pyramid  form,  and  a  spoon- 
ful  of  whipped  cream  around. 

There  should  be  3  colors  of  jelly,  clear  lemon, 
amber  and  red  wine. 


187.    Ohocolate  Cream. 

1  quart  of  milk. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  gelatine 

2  ounces  of  grated  common  chocolate. 
8  yolks  of  eggs  and  ?.  whites. 

1  cup  of  cream. 

Vanilla  extract. 

Set  the  milk  over  the  fire  with  the  sugar  chocolate 
and  gelatine  in  it.  Beat  as  it  heats  with  the  wire 
whisk  till  all  is  dissolved.  Beat  the  yolks  in  a  bowl 
and  at  the  first  sign  of  boiling  add  them  to  the  miik 
on  the  fire,  let  remain  about  a  minute  then  strain 
into  a  freezer  set  in  ice  water. 

Rinse  out  the  thick  chocolate  custard  that  adheres 
to  the  kettle  with  the  cup  of  cre^m  and  add  that  to  the 
other  in  the  freezer.  Flavor  with  vanilla,  beat  up 
as  it  cools  and  at  lait  add  the  3  whites  whipped  firm 
and  beat  up  5  minutes  more.  Put  tho  cre^m  in  oiled 
molds  or  serve  it  by  epoonfuls  out  of  the  freezer  with 
a  spoonful  of  sweetened  cream  whipped  to  frcth  as 
a  sauce 


188.    Pistachio  Cream. 


Make  Bavarian  cream  half  the  quanity  of  the 
first  Bavarian  receipt.  Throw  a  pound  of  pistachio 
kernels  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water  and  in  two  min- 
utes take  them  out,  peel,  and  pound  them  a  few  at 
a  time  in  a  mortar  with  a  spoonful  of  witer.  Rub 
the  pas'e  through  a  seive,  mix  it  with  the  Bavarian 
while  beating  and  color  with  spinach  green — the 
pressed  out  juice  of  spinach  leaves  mixed  with 
sugir. 

Where  this  cream  is  desired  only  for  its  green 
color  as  when  it  is  to  fill  a  mold  in  imitation  of  a 
bunch  of  asparagus  with  green  tops,  almonds  can  be 
used  inste  id  of  pistachios ;  they  are  very  much 
cheaper;  and  spinach  juice  coloring  used  the  same. 

189     Rose  Cream. 

Make  Bavarian,  flavor  elightly  with  rose  extract 
ani  color  it  light  piuk. 


190     Charlotte  Russe. 

Line  a  plain  rak^  mold,  or  a  small  round  tin  pan, 
or  a  long  and  parrow  mold  made  for  the  purpose 
with  either  lady  fingers  or  large  pponge  d'ops.  This  is 


done  by  dipping  the  edges  of  the  cakes  in  white  of 
eggs  and  p'acing  them  ude  by  side  overlapping  each 
o:her.  Then  msike  Bavarian  cream  sufficient,  and 
when  fi  lishel  beating,  just  as  it  begins  to  set,  fill  up 
the  molds  wiih  it. 

If  poured  in  too  thin  the  cream  runs  and  covers 
up  the  cakes,  yet  it  should  be  fluid  enough  to  settle 
to  the  shape  and  bind  them  all  together. 

Set  the  charlotte  in  the  refrigerator  to  become  firm 
and  cold. 


191.  Bavarian  cream  is  designated  as  being  the 
filling  oftenest  empl  >jed,  but  there  is  no  rule  in  the 
matter  and  any  other  of  the  creams  can  be  used  as 
well.  Charlotte  a  la  Chantilly  is  charlotte-rus''e 
filled  with  the  thickest  of  thick  cream  sweetened  and 
flavored  and  whipped  to  froth  and  made  firm  enough 
to  turn  out  simply  by  being  mide  very  cold.  Char- 
lotte russe  au  marasquin  is  the  charlotte  filled  with 
marach"no  B  .varian  cream  very  highly  flavored 
with  the  liqueur  and  with  corrrspondirgly  less 
sugar.  Charlotte  russe  auz  /raises  U  the  charlotte 
filled  wiih  strawberry  Bavarian  cream,  or  with  whcle 
strawberries  iu  whipped  cream  like  the  mode  chan- 
tilly. 

192     Individual  Charlottes 


It  is  easily  prac  icable  to  make  them  in  custard 
cups  with  3  thin  lady  fingers  trimmed  a  little  to 
shape  and  tot  overlapped.  Fill  with  any  of  the 
creims  and  place  thf  m  in  the  refrigera  or  to  se'  solid. 
When  served  have  ready  some  thick  whipped  cream, 
turn  out  the  charlottes  on  ice  cream  plates  and  top 
them  with  a  spoonful  of  the  froth. 

193.    Serving  Large  Charlottes 

Says  an  old  author — Fielding:  *•  Many  exquisite 
viands  m'ght  be  rejected  by  the  epicure  if  it  was  a 
sufiicient  cauee  for  his  contemning  of  them  as  com 
mon  and  vulgar,  that  something  was  to  be  found  in 
the  most  paltry  aUeys  under  the  same  name.  *  * 
Where  then  lies  the  differ<?nce  be  ween  the  food  of 
the  nobleman  and  the  porter,  if  boh  are  at  dinner 
on  the  same  ox  or  calf,  but  in  the  seasoning,  the  dress 
ing,  the  garnishing,  and  the  setting  forthV 

Charlotte-ruise  is  one  of  the  few  royal  dishes  that 
have  become  universally  known — by  name.  But  aa 
common'y  met  with  it  is  a  fine  thing  *  run  to  seed;'* 
one  of  the  shabby  genteel ;  a  very  distant  relation 
of  the  original.  Ti  e  first  departure  uses  a  pponge 
cake  with  the  inside  all  cut  out  and  the  omst  filled 
up  with  a  cream  or  blaac-mange  not  so  bad ;  but  it 
falls  from  that  to  a  lining  of  slices  of  any  sort  of 
stale  cake,  of  burnt,  scraped  and  trimmed  cake,  husks 
and  scraps,  filled  with  something  sour  and  nas'y. 

The  individual  siyle  of  service  makes  the  long  and 
,  •  arrow  shai.e  of  mold  desirable  for  slices  ?o  be  cut 


48 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


across,  but  the  lining  should  always  be  of  lady 
fingers,  their  thinness  and  glazed  sugar  surface  ma- 
king them  the  most  suitable. 

But  a  large  round  charlotte  may  be  sliced  as  well 
like  a  cake  or  cheese  and  tlie  good  workman  will 
like  to  show  in  such  broad  slices  the  sponge-like 
texture  of  the  cream  filling.  A  spoonful  of  thick 
sweetened  cream  ice  cold  should  be  placed  in  the 
plate  or  saucer  first. 

104.  A  charlotte  set  on  the  tab!e  whole  should 
be  ornamented  with  small  piping  patterns  of  cake 
icing  on  the  sides  and  a  coat  of  thin  icing  on  top 
colored  very  light  brown  with  a  red  hot  salamander 
held  over  it.  A  chantilly  charlotte  should  have  no 
cake  lining  on  the  bottom  of  the  mold^  and  when 
turned  out  should  have  whipped  cream  pi'.ed  high 
on  top  and  spotted  wi'h  red  or  wi'h  pieces  of  colored 
jelly.  A  strawberry  ch^irloMe  in  like  manner  should 
have  strawbetriea  and  whipped  cream  heaped  upon 
it.  A  border  of  whipped  cream  placed  around  the 
base,  or  meringues  inverted  like  cups  filled  with 
berries  or  grapes  and  set  around  are  other  suitable 
and  proper  ornaments,  and  so  are  the  shapes  of  gel- 
atine paste  colored  green  with  spinach  juice  as  rec- 
ommended for  molds  of  ice  cream. 


195.    Parisian  Charlotte. 


Receipts  and  directions  f^r  making  difterent  colors 
of  g^aza  or  boiled  icing  were  given  in  connection 
with  white  cakes  near  the  beginning  of  this  book. 
Cut  some  thin  sponge  drops  or  sheets  of  fipooge  cake 
in  squares  and  dip  one  side  of  them  by  means  of  a 
fork  in  the  g^aze  and  let  thtm  dry  and  harden.  Have 
several  colors.  Line  plain  drum  shaped  molds  with 
these  colored  squares  checker-board  fashion,  dip- 
ping the  edges  in  melted  g'aze  or  candy  to  make 
them  stick.  Then  fill  up  the  molds  with  any  of  the 
creams.  When  cold  and  set  turn  out  and  set  on  the 
table  whole  as  directed  for  charlotte-russe. 


196  Wanted — A  Name.  Is  everything  and  a^l 
this  country  really  running  to  pie?  A  Chic  go  lady 
tourist  kindly  wishing  to  do  the  writer  a  service  de. 
scribed  for  him  her  way  of  making  a  "Charlotte- 
russe"  that  is  highly  esteemed  among  her  circle  cf 
friends.  It  accordingly  here  appears  in  place.  Bake 
2  thin  shee's  of  spongecake  on  jelly  cake  pans  and 
while  they  are  ftill  warm  p'ace  them  on  soup  plates 
and  press  them  lightly  to  the  shape.  Fill  one  with 
whipped  cream  with  gelatine  in  it  (Bavarian  cream 
in  effect)  and  place  the  other  sheet  of  cake  over  it 
like  a  lid.  This  is  convenient  to  cut.  It  can  be 
covered  with  powdered  sugar  or  with  icing.  It  is 
good,  excellent,  but  through  some  miserable  preju- 
dice or  other  we  don't  like  to  call  it  charlotte-russe. 
It  is  too  much  like  pie. 


197.    Charlotte  for  a  Small  Party. 


And  now  for  the  convcn'enoe  of  those  wishing 
just  one  charlotte  rus-e  and  riot  enough  for  a  ho^el 
dinner  we  append  a  first-class  working  receipt  that 
will  suit. 

2^  pints  of  thin  cream. 

1  teacupful  of  maraschino. 

7  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  package  of  Cox's  gelatine — 1 J  ounces. 

Put  the  extra  half  pint  of  cream  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan and  the  gelatine  and  sugar  with  it,  set  over  the 
fire  and  beat  with  the  wire  egg  whisk  till  the  gela- 
tine is  all  dissolved — the  quicker  the  better.  Pour 
the  maraschino  into  the  cold  cream,  then  strain  in 
the  contents  of  the  saucepan,  set  the  whole  in  a  pan 
of  ice  water  with  salt  in  it  and  whip  the  cream  mix- 
ture till  it  begics  to  set,  when  pour  it  into  the  pre- 
pared mold. 

The  mold  should  be  made  ready  beforehand.  A  2 
quart  jelly  mold  wi  1  d'^,  or  a  cake  mold.  Line  it 
with  lady-fingers  placed  edge  to  edge,  the  edges 
wetted  with  white  cf  egg.  Ornament  the  top  on 
turning  out  with  whipped  cream  or  meringue. 


198     Table  Jellies- 


There  are  jellies  made  with  pure  fruit  juice  fil- 
tered through  paper  and  set  with  gelatine — French 
extras- -we  may  touch  upon  them  further  on.  These 
first  considered  are  the  everyd>=y,  off  hand  sort  found 
on  hotels  tables  and  in  the  windows  of  the  confec- 
tioners who  sell  them  by  the  mold  or  glassful,  or 
furnish  paity  suppers. 


199.    Stock  Jelly. 

Once  making  of  stock  jelly  serves  for  2  or  3  meals. 
For  6  quarts  take; 

6^  quarts  of  water. 

3  pounds  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  gelatine. 

10  lemons — ^julce  of  all,  thin  shaved  rinds  of  5. 

1  or  2  ounces  of  whole  spices — cloves,  mace, 
cinnamon. 

10  whites  of  eggs. 

Put  the  water  in  a  bright  brass  kettle,  add  all  the 
other  ingredients — the  lemon  juice  squeezed  in 
without  the  seeds,  the  yellow  rind  pared  very  thin, 
and  the  white  of  egga'bealen  a  little  with  some  water 
mixed  in  first.  The  clean  egg  shells  may  be  put 
in  also  to  assist  in  the  clarification.  Use  the  sheet 
gelatine  that  floats,  f  )r  preference.  Then  set  the 
kettle  on  the  side  of  the  range  and  let  it  slowly  come 
to  a  boil  with  occasional  stirring. 

Let  it  boil  about  half  an  hour  and  above  all,  to 
avoid  the  trouble  and  waste  of  having  to  boil  it 
again,  be  sure  that  the  white  foam  of  egg  on  top 
becomes  thoroughly  cooked  so  that  it  will  go  down 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


49 


and  mix  with  the  jelly  again  like  so  much  meal. 
Sometimes  to  accomplish  this  it  is  necessary  to  set 
the  kettle  jin  the  oven  a  few  minutes  to  get  heat 
enough  on  the  top. 

Then  run  it  through  the  flannel  jelly  bag  sus- 
pended from  a  hook.  The  boiling  having  been  prop- 
erly attended  to  there  should  be  not  the  slighest 
difficulty  in  getting  it  to  run  through  not  only  clear 
but  bright  and  transparent  as  glass.  The  first  pour- 
ing coats  the  inside  of  the  filtering  bag  with  the 
congealed  white  of  egg  and  every  succeeding  running 
through  brightens  the  jelly.  ^ 

The  above  makes  jelly  of  good  quality.  It  can  be 
made  cheaper  with  less  sugar  and  lemons.  It  may 
be  set  down  as  a  rule  that  jelly  cannot  be  made  this 
way  without  more  or  less  lemon  juiee  or  some  acid 
equivalent — it  will  not  run  through  a  filtering  bag 
without. 


200.    Jellies  in  Variety. 

The  stock  having  been  made  it  can  now  be  divi- 
ded into  as  many  kinds  as  may  be  desired,  thanks  to 
the  flavoring  extract  makers. 

But  the  stock  jelly  is  already  good  and  mildly 
flavored  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  over  season 
it,  or  injure  its  bright  appearance. 

Jelly  is  quite  as  much  for  ornament  as  use.  It 
can  easily  be  made  to  attract  notice  at  the  finest  table 
for  its  lustre  and  rich  colors  even  if  never  tasted, 
therefore  its  appearance  is  the  main  consideration. 
Lemon  extract  cannot  be  put  in  jelly  because  it 
makes  a  milky  appearance  and  dims  its  brilliancy. 
Orange  extract  the  same  Most  of  the  other  extracts 
can  be  used  to  flavor.  Use  wine  in  small  proportion 
to  mix  with  some  of  the  stock  and  color  deep  red, 
but  run  through  the  jelly  bag  again  while  it  is  yet 
warm.  Flavor  some  with  vanilla  and  color  it  either 
amber  or  brown  with  burnt  sugar,  and  run  it 
through  the  jelly  bag  again.  Flavor  some  with  straw- 
berry and  color  it  pink,  and  leave  some  plain,  pale 
yellow. 


201.    Soda  Water  Jellies. 


Having  a  number  of  difterent  colors  and  flavors 
prepared  as  above,  fill  a  sufficient  number  of  tall 
thin  stem  glasses  with  them,  but  not  quite  to  the 
top,  and  set  them  in  a  cold  place  to  harden.  Make 
the  foam  for  the  tops  by  beating  a  pint  of  jelly  with 
a  wire  egg  whisk  in  a  pan  set  in  ice  water  and  when 
it  is  partly  frothed  whip  up  the  whites  of  3  eggs, 
add  them  to  the  jelly  and  continue  beating  them 
together  a  minute  or  two.  Then  pile  the  white  froth 
thus  made  on  top  of  the  glasses.  Keep  them  in  a 
cold  place  to  solidify,  and  serve  them  very  cold. 
These  make  a  fine  appearance  in  pyramidal  form  on 
a  set  table. 


202.    One  Quart  of  Jelly. 

The  rule  is,  for  good  quality : 

1  quart  of  water. 

1^  ounces  of  gelatine. 

8  ounces  of  sugar- 

1  or  2  lemons 

1  teaspoonful  of  whole  mixed  spices. 

2  whites  of  eggs  and  the  clean  shells. 

But  a  cupful  of  water  more  must  be  added  to 
allow  for  evaporation  and  loss  unless  it  is  intended 
to  add  J  pint  of  wine  to  the  stock  jelly  produced. 


For  jellies  to  serve  ordinarily  at  dinner  pour  them 
in  bright  pans,  an  inch  or  more  in  depth  and  when 
set  cut  out  little  diamond  shaped  blocks  and  serve 
two  such  pieces  of  different  color  in  the  same  saucer. 


203.    Champagne  Jelly. 

Dissolve  one  package  of  Cox's  or  other  fine  shred 
gelatine  in  ^  pint  of  hot  water  with  6  ounces  of 
sugar  in  it.  Beat  about  over  the  fire  to  dissolve  it 
quickly.  Then  strain  the  dissolved  gelatine  into  a 
quart  of  champagne  in  a  large  bowl.  Set  on  ice  and 
when  it  is  about  to  set  take  out  half  a  cupful  and 
beat  it  with  a  wire  egg  whisk  1  minute.  Return  the 
frothed  jelly  to  the  bowl,  stir  round  once  and  let  it 
remain  on  ice  to  solidify,  either  in  Hie  bowl  to  be 
cut  out  in  blocks,  or  in  glasses.  There  will  be  bub. 
bles  all  through  the  jelly  and  a  thin  froth  on  top. 


204.    Sparkling  Wine  Jelly. 

Take  the  brightest  wine  jelly,  deep  red,  as  made 
by  the  sfock  jelly  method,  ana  froth  a  little  of 
it  and  manage  as  directed  for  champagne  jelly,  stir- 
ring the  froth  in  with  only  one  turn — not  beating, 
which  would  destroy  its  clearness — whipped  jelly 
can  be  congealed  in  the  bottom  of  a  mold  first,  nearly 
cold  jelly  poured  in  and  the  whole  turned  out  at  last 
with  the  froth  on  top. 


205.    Punch  Jelly. 

Make  a  quart  of  stock  jelly  by  the  1  quart  re- 
ceipt, and  when  finished  add  to  it  a  small  cup  of 
strong  tea  and  a  small  cup  of  mixed  wine  and 
brandy.  Cut  a  lemon  in  small  thin  slices  and  let 
them  float  in  it.  Dish  up  with  pieces  of  lemon  in 
each  portion. 


206.    Pure  Fruit  Juioe  Jellies. 

For  orange  jelly  :  Put  the  thin  shaved  rind  of  2 
oranges  in  a  bowl,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  4.  Boil 
a  quart  of  water  with  a  pound  of  sugar  and  pour 
the  hot  syrup  to  the  orange  peel  and  juice.  Dissolve 
2  ounces  of  gelatine  in  a  cup  of  hot  water  separately. 
When  the  syrup  has  stood  long  enough  to  draw  the 


60 


THE  A.MERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


flavor  of  the  orange  peel  filiter  it— instead  of  using 
white  of  eggs  to  clarify — through  a  flannel  bag  lined 
with  a  sheet  of  blotting  paper.  Afterwards  mix  in 
the  dissolved  gelatine. 

All  sorts  of  fresh  fruit  juices  can  be  jellified  in 
the  above  manner.  For  a  guide  to  the  proportions 
of  fruit  and  sugar  required  in  so  much  water  see 
the  receipts  for  fruit  ices.  The  rule  for  gelatine  is 
l^  ounces  to  a  quart  of  water  or  juice. 

207.    Calf's  Foot  Jelly. 

Calves'  feet  make  good  jelly  as  does  gelatine,  it 
is  only  more  brittle  and  liable  to  fall  apart  of  its 
own  weight.  4  feet  will  produce  about  a  gallon  of 
jelly.  Set  them  on  to  bcil  in  3  gallons  of  water  and 
keep  them  simmering  at  the  back  of  the  range  till 
they  are  dissolved  and  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  less 
than  half,  which  may  be  in  8  or  10  hours.  For 
further  directions  see  the  Book  of  Salads.  When 
the  calf's  foot  jelly  has  been  divested  of  grease  it  is 
the  same  thing  as  gelatine  and  water  and  is  ready  to 
have  sugar  and  other  ingredients  added  to  make 
stock  jelly  in  the  usual  way. 


208^    Ornamental  Jellies. 


1.  Fruits  in  jelly:  With  the  very  clearest  and  bright- 
est jelly  various  pretty  devices  can  be  carried  out. 
Place  a  fine  bunch  of  grapes  in  a  mold  and  fill  up  with 
jelly.  Or  partially  line  a  mold  with  fruits  dipped  in 
jelly  and  let  them  get  cold  in  place  before  filling  up 
with  jelly.  Orange  and  lemon  slices  float,  but  they 
can  be  dipped  in  warm  jelly  and  pushed  down  to 
line  molds  of  jelly  that  is  nearly  set.  Peach  and 
apricot  quarters  may  be  done  the  same  way. 

2.  Fish  and  other  illusions  in  jelly :  Many  jelly 
molds  and  articles  of  crockery  ware  have  fishes  and 
fruits  stamped  in  for  ornament.  Pour  a  teaspoonful 
of  blanc-mange  or  jaune  mange  into  the  pattern,  set 
it  in  ice  water,  turning  it  about  so  as  to  thinly  coat 
it,  then  fill  up  the  hollow  with  jelly  and  let  it  all 
set  firm.  Line  a  large  jelly  mold  with  a  coating  of 
clear  jelly  turned  about  in  it  in  a  pan  of  ice  water. 
Place  your  little  white  or  yellow  fishes  on  the  lining 
and  when  they  have  become  solidly  set  fill  up  the 
mold  with  clear  jelly  nearly  cold.  The  fishes  appear 
solid  enough  from  the  outside  but  when  cut  all  that 
can  be  found  of  them  is  a  small  mark  no  thicker 
than  a  knife  blade. 

3.  Macedoine  jelly :  Cut  different  colored  jellies 
in  small  dice  and  mix  them  together..  Moisten  with 
a  little  clear  jell"  melted  but  nearly  cold  and  fill 
molds  with  it. 

4.  Fill  molds  wiih  3  colors  by  letting  one  larger 
set  solid  and  then  pouring  another  kind  upon  it. 


209.    Geneva  Lake  Cakes. 

Device  f  )r  showing  fine  icing  work  that  is  lost  on 
large  pieces  Make  2  ielly  cakes  of  3  or  4  layers 
each  and  of  diameter  as  broad  as  the  largest  cake 
stands  will  hold,  and  cut  out  the  inside  of  all  but  the 
bottom  layer  of  the  cakes,  making  a  basin  sur. 
rounded  by  a  wall  Spread  the  inside  wi'h  some 
kind  of  jam  to  hide  the  cake  and  then  fill  them  to 
the  brim  with  the  clearest  jelly,  amber  color  for  one 
and  light  red  for  the  other.  Ice  over  the  top  sur- 
rounding rim  of  cake. 

The  jelly  when  poured  in  must  be  just  at  the 
point  of  beginning  to  set.  If  too  firm  its  transpar- 
ency will  be  destroyed,  and  if  too  thin  it  may  soak 
into  the   cakes. 

On  the  glassy  surface  of  these  lakes  may  be  placed 
white  swans  of  the  finest  icing,  water  lilies,  boats, 
gondolas,  arbors  set  on  islands,  trees,  temples,  foun- 
tains, all  of  the  smallest  practicable  size.  Every 
thread  of  the  finest  icing  shows  plainly  on  the  sur- 
face of  these  jelly  charlottes,  and  besides  they  are 
very  good  to  eat. 


210.    White  Mountain  Gems. 

Make  thin  sponge  drops  about  the  size  of  the 
top  of  a  teacup  and  place  spots  of  meringue  paste  or 
icing  all  around  their  edge  to  form  a  rim  or  border. 
The  spots  should  be  the  size  of  small  cranberries  and 
a  high  point  should  be  drawn  up  as  the  tube  leaves 
them.  Bake  a  few  minutes  with  the  oven  door 
open  to  dry  the  icing  straw  color.  Fill  the  centers 
with  a  spoonful  of  wine  or  lemon  jelly  so  nearly 
cold  as  not  to  run  much. 


211.    Spring  Lake  Gems. 


Make  macaroon  paste  by  the  receipt  for  common 
macaroons,  drop  portions  on  baking  pans  and  flat- 
ten them  somewhat  by  means  of  two  spoons.  Bake 
the  macaroons,  and  when  slacked  baked  put  (hem 
into  patty  pans  or  gem  pans  of  corresponding  size 
and  press  them  into  the  shape  to  form  a  sort  of  little 
baskets  when  cold.  Ornament  the  edges  of  these 
with  small  spots  icing  as  in  the  preceding  article, 
bake  a  minute  or  two,  and  when  cold  fill  the  gems 
with  minced  wine  jelly  of  different  colers  mixed. 


212.    Icing  and  Ornamenting  Cakes. 

As  these  matters  have  been  mentioned  incidentally 
in  other  parts  of  the  book  we  will  recapitulate  by 
observing  that  there  are  three  well-known  ways  of 
ornamenting  cakes;  first,  by  patterns  in  piping  of 
white  icing  on  the  cake  itself  not  iced,  as  on  the 
fine  yellow,  glazed  surface  of  a  savoy  cake,  or  a 
dark  chocolate  cake,  or  a  charlotte-russe  ;  second, 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


61 


by  covering  tbe  cakes  with  different  colored  glaze  or 
boiled  icing  as  described  in  conneciioa  with  white 
cakes,  and,  third,  by  frosting  with  the  raw  icing  as 
made  for  meringue  puff?  and  "kisses,"  and  orna- 
menting with  the  same. 


The  first  requisite  is  to  make  the  cake  itself  sym 
metricil  and  level  by  trin;ming.  The  cakes  of  a 
skillful  cake  maker  will  rise  in  baking  all  round 
alike  so  that  only  a  mere  shaving  will  have  to  be 
taken  off,  but  whether  little  or  much  must  be  cut  it 
is  obvi  jusly  useless  to  try  to  make  an  object  that  is 
not  "square  with  the  world"  look  well  by  merely 
covering  its  deformity  with  a  coat  of  icing. 

Fruitcakes  always  require  two  coas  of  icing,  and 
all  cakes  th'it  are  to  be  handsomely  ornamented 
should  have  the  same  double  covering. 

Make  the  icing  as  directed  under  the  head  of 
mencgue  puffi  and  macaroons,  with  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar  to  6  whites  of  eggs.  Spread  it  all 
over  the  cakei  with  a  palette  knife,  smooth  over 
rough  places,  fill  up  hollows,  cover  the  hole  left  by 
the  cake  mold  in  the  center  with  a  patch  of  writing 
paper  aid  ice  over  that,  and  leave  the  cakes  an 
hour  or  two  to  dry. 

For  the  pecoud  coat  use  powdered  sugar  sifted 
through  a  fine  geive  or  Swiss  muslin ;  beat  up  a 
pound  with  4  whites  and  then  add  4  more  whites  one 
at  a  time,  beating  aft^  each  addition  till  the  icing 
is  firm  again,  except  the  last  white  which  makes  the 
glossy  surface  on  the  cake  and  should  only  be  beaten 
in  a  little.  Drop  in  the  few  drops  of  acetic  acid 
sometime  near  the  end  of  the  beating  and  carefully 
add  a  drop  or  two  of  liquid  bluing  or  dissolved 
indigo,  to  whiten  the  icing,  and  some  flavoring 
extract. 

213.  To  get  a  fine  surface  on  the  cakes  as  smooth 
and  free  from  marks  as  fine  card  board  the  icing 
must  b3  first  as  firm  by  beating  as  it  can  be  m^de 
and  thinned  with  the  last  \\hite  of  egg,  and  another 
if  necessity  till  it  will  settle  slowly  to  smo  ^thness 
on  tlie  cikes,  but  will  not  actually  drip  off.  Be- 
sides that  the  cakes  must  be  made  smoother  by  dex- 
terously drawing  over  them  the  edge  of  a  band  of 
paper. 

Cut  a  sheet  of  foolscap  into  ribbons  2  inches  wide. 
Spread  the  prepared  icing  thickly  on  the  the  top  of 
the  cake,  take  the  paper  strip  by  the  two  ends  and 
scrape  (ff  the  surplus  icing  with  the  paper  edge  at 
one  even  stroke,  drawing  towards  you.  Persons  in 
practice  can  so  well  manage  a  ribbon  of  paper  held 
stretched  between  the  fingers  and  thumbs  of  both 
hands  that  way  that  they  can  smooth  over  a  cushion 
or  any  concave  or  convex  shape  covered  with  icing 
without  leaving  the  mark  of  either  beginning  or 
ending. 

When  the  sides  of  the  cakes  have  likewise  been 
OBvered  and  smoothed  set  the  cakes  in  a  drying 
place. 


214.  The  ornamental  piping  on  cakes  is  done 
by  pressing  stiff  icing  or  meringue  paste  out  of  the 
cut  point  of  a  paper  cornet.  Roll  up  half  a  sheet  of 
note  paper  into  funnel  shape  and  pin  it,  nearly  fill 
with  the  icing,  and  double  over  the  paper  so  as  to 
shut  it  in.  If  you  cut  off  the  point  of  the  cornet 
straight  the  piping  pressed  out  will  be  a  plain  round 
cord.  If  a  slanting  side  snip  is  taking  off  the  icing 
comes  out  like  narrow  tape.  Cut  the  poiit  of  the 
paper  like  saw  teeth  and  a  three  or  four  sided  cord 
is  formed,  and  there  are  many  variations.  We  name 
the  paper  cornet  for  example,but  for  constant  use  there 
are  made  tubes  or  points  of  the  thinnest  brass  plate 
filed  into  the  required  shapes  at  the  points,  and 
these  are  draped  into  paper  cornets  made  large 
enough  to  receive  them. 

The  brass  point  that  is  filed  into  three  saw  teeth 
will  form  a  border  of  leaves  around  a  cake.  The 
tooth  that  is  uppermost  is  caused  by  a  motion  of  the 
hand  to  make  the  indentation  marks  as  the  icing 
passes  under  and  out,  and  a  sudden  breaking  off 
draws  out  the  leaf  to  a  point,  Tliis  will  probably 
sufficiently  explain  the  matter  of  cake  ornamenta- 
tion for  those  who  have  never  seen  it  done,  the  rest 
must  come  through  actual  practice  and  example. 


215.    To  Make  Flowers  for  Oake  Orna- 
ments. 


Flower  making  of  icing  and  gum  paste  is  a  trade 
of  itself  and  it  is  generally  cheaper  to  buy  than  to 
make  them.  But  it  often  happens  that  the  ready 
made  article  is  not  obtainable  and  we  must  do  the 
best  we  can. 

Dip  three  or  four  sheets  of  writing  paper  in  some 
wax  melted  on  a  plate  and  form  the  flowers  with  the 
cornets  or  brass  tubes  on  the  waxed  paper.  The 
cornet  that  has  the  point  cut  off  slantwise  when 
pressed  will  discharge  the  icing  in  a  narrow  ribbon 
form  and  it  is  not  difficult  with  that  to  form  five 
rounded  leaves,  the  points  all  meeting  in  the  center 
and  making  a  pansy,  or  a  number  of  narrower  petals 
around  a  centre  like  a  dahlia.  To  make  the  con- 
ventional red  and  white  roses  a  core,  or  little 
pyramid  an  inch  high  has  first  to  be  made  and 
let  dry  to  form  them  on.  These  coves  are  of 
stiff  icing  forced  out  of  a  cornet  and  drawn  up 
high.  They  should  stand  on  small  pieces  of  waxed 
paper.  V\  hen  dry  and  hard  wrap  a  morsel  of 
the  ribbon  icing  pressed  out  of  the  cornet  over 
the  point  of  the  core,  like  the  inside  leaf  of  a  rose- 
bud. After  suddenly  breaking  off  the  ribbon  com- 
mence again  at  the  back  of  the  first  leaf  and  form 
another,  covering  the  point  of  the  core  on  the  other 
side.  Let  the  next  leaf  lean  outwards  a  little  and 
the  next  still  more,  making  them  all  adhere  to  the 
core  by  one  edge  of  the  ribbon  and  making  the  rose 
leaves  larger  and  larger  till  the  core  is  covered  and 
there  is  room  for  no  more.    The  flat  four  and  five 


6ft 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


leaved  flowers,  such  as  resemble  apple  blossoms  and 
pansies,  s'lould  be  painted  with  a  few  fine  lines  of 
color.  The  roses  are  made  red  by  coloring  the  icing 
they  are  m  de  of. 

After  learning  to  use  the  cornets  in  making 
borders  on  cakes  and  making  flowers,  to  mane 
raised  ornamental  work,  such  as  lattice  work, 
fences,  sides  of  temples,  etc  ,  to  be  raised  up  and 
joined  together  on  the  cakes,  or  baskets  and  other 
objects  it  is  only  necessary  to  know  that  all  such 
may  be  made  on  paper  coated  with  white  w  ix,  and 
when  the  object  is  dry  and  hard  the  paper  can  be 
warmed  and  it  will  slip  off. 

Most  of  the  white  plaster-like  ornaments  for  cakes 
in  the  confectioners'  windows,  such  as  birds,  baskets, 
lace  leaves,  vases  and  twelfth-cake  figures  are  made 
of  gum  paste,  a  compound  that  could  be  eaten  but 
probably  never  is,  although  it  is  one-half  sugar. 


216.    Gum  Paste. 

1  ounce,  or  a  little  more  of  gum  tragacanih  (gum 
dragon). 

8  ounces  of  finest  powdered  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

The  gum  must  be  soaked  12  hours  or  more  before 
it  is  used.  Put  it  in  a  cup  with  half  a  cup  cf  water, 
cover  to  keep  out  dust  and  set  it  on  a  warm  shelf 
When  dissolved  squeeze  it  through  a  clean  towel  by 
twisting  with  considerable  force.  Scrape  up  the 
gum,  place  it  on  a  dish,  add  the  sugar  a  little  at  a 
time  and  work  them  together  with  a  paddle  or 
wooden  spoon.  Add  a  drop  of  liquid  blue  to  whiten 
it.  When  the  sugar  is  all  in  begin  adding  the  starch 
the  same  way.  Pull  out  the  paste  as  it  becomes  stiff, 
and  double  and  pall  again,  and  when  all  the  starch 
has  been  worked  in  the  paste  is  ready  for  use.  It 
may  be  pressed  into  shallow  molds  of  fancy  figure:} 
made  in  plaster  of  paris,  or  in  carved  boards  and 
left  in  them  till  dry  and  hard. 

217-    Almond  Gum  Paste. 


An  eatable  sort,  and  semi- transparent: 

1  ounce  of  gum  tragacanth — allow  more  for  waste. 

1  pound  of  fine  powdered  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  the  paste  of  pounded  almonds. 

8  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

Blanch  the  almonds,  pound  them  to  a  fine  paste 
and  pass  it  through  a  stive.  Make  the  gum  paste 
as  direcied  in  the  preceding  article  and  add  the 
almond  paste  to  it  after  the  sugar  and  before  the 
starch.  This  is  suitable  to  make  small  cornucopia 
or  horns  of  plenty,  and  other  objects  to  be  orna- 
mented with  fine  icing  for  a  finish. 


218.    Candy  Ornaments. 
A  marble  slab  or  marble  top  table  is  needed  to 


form  panels,  windows,  and  the  like,  of  clear  candy, 
on.  S  ightly  oil  the  slab.  Take  a  cornet  filed  with 
icing  and  form  the  outline  frame  of  a  church  window, 
for  example,  and  into  the  rim  so  made  pour  clear 
colored  candy.  S^x  or  eight  keystone  shaped  panels 
made  the  same  way  may  be  set  up  and  joined  together 
by  the  edges  to  form  a  basket,  which  in  turn  may 
be  fil'ed  with  macaroons. 

The  rim  to  held  the  candy  in  shape  on  the  slab 
may  be  made  of  dough  oiled  over,  or  of  putty  when 
large  sheets  of  candy  are  needed  to  build  up  large 
ornamental  pieces. 

219.    Plaster  of  Paris  Molds. 


Are  made  by  mixing  deuiist's  plaster  with  water 
to  the  thinness  almost  of  cream,  pouring  it  into  a 
shallow  box  and  pressing  the  object  of  which  an 
impression  is  desired  down  into  it.  In  a  few  min- 
utes the  plaster  hardens  and  presently  the  fruit,  or 
Stamped  or  carved  objpct  can  be  withdrawn.  Articles 
so  used  should  be  oiled  before  immersing.  The 
molds  should  be  baked  at  a  gentle  heat  afterwards. 
A  whole  tomato  or  apple  meld  may  be  made  by  en- 
tirely covering  the  fruit  in  the  liquid  plaster  and 
when  it  has  hardened  sawing  in  two  and  removing 
the  fruit.  A  hole  is  cut  into  which  the  candy  may 
be  poured  when  the  two  halves  are  tied  together. 
Gum  paste  is  pressed  eiiher  with  rolling-pin  or  pes- 
tle into  shallow  molds  of  shells,  leaves  and  doll 
figures,  which  are  left  to  dry  and  are  afterwards 
painted  or  ornamented  with  icing. 


220.    Gum  Arabic  Icing. 

To  give  to  cike  icing  the  tenacity  that  allows 
borders  of  fringe  and  loop  work  to  be  made  on 
cakes,  with  strings  of  fine  piping  hanging  between 
points  several  inches  apart  without  breaking,  mix 
with  every  pound  of  fine  powdered  sugar  from  1  to 
2  ounces  of  gum  arable.  Powder  the  gum  and  dis- 
solve it  first  in  a  spoonful  of  hot  water  in  a  cjip  set 
ou  the  side  of  the  range,  and  add  a  little  at  a  time 
to  the  icing  while  beating  it  up.  The  paste  of  gum 
tragacanth  (gum  dragon)  as  prepared  for  making 
gum  paste  can  also  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 


The  ordinary  methods  and  means  employed  for 
cake  and  center  piece  ornamention  having  now  been 
explained  the  writer  will  here  state  that  he  has  a 
difi'erent  method  of  his  own,  which  produces  orna- 
mental effects  incomparably  superior  to  the  common 
clumsy  pyramid  of  cakes  or  the  unmeaning  and 
futile  temple  of  gum  paste,  and  which  have  gained 
the  admiration  of  some  of  the  people  whose  appro- 
bation  in  such  matters  decides  the  question  of  merit. 
The  new  method  may  be  fully  explained  with  the 
aid  of  illustrations,  in  a  few  additional  pages  at  soms 
future  time. 


THE  AMEKICAN  PASTRY  COCK. 


63 


^21.    A    Few   Candies   for   Amateur    Candy 
Pullers. 


The  French  confectioners  recognize  as  many 
as  twelve  stages  or  degrees  in  boiling  sugar, 
ranging  from  the  "  petit  lisse  "  to  the  "  caramel 
noir  " — from  simple  syrup  to  burnt  sugar  caramel. 
However,  we  have  not  time  to  learn  the  degrees 
— only  just  a  little  time  to  make  some  candy. 

222.    Oandy  for  Christmas  Toys,  Bto. 

2  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 

1  pint,  or  rather  less,  of  water. 

1  large  teaspoonful  of  powdered  gum  arable. 

1  level  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Flavoring. 

Dissolve  the  powdered  gum  in  the  water  made 
warm  for  the  purpose.  Then  add  to  the  gum-water 
the  sugar  and  cream  of  tartar  and  set  on  to  boil.  Do 
not  stir  the  syiup  after  it  is  once  well  mixed.  It 
should  boil  about  15  minutes.  Then  try  it  by  drop- 
ping a  little  in  cold  water.  When  the  lump  retains 
its  shape  pretty  well  and  can  be  worked  between  the 
fingers  like  gum  paste  it  is  ready.  Pour  it  into  the 
shallow  planter  of  paris  molds,  either  oiled  or  wetted 
to  make  doll  figures,  or  figures  of  animals,  fishes, 
etc.,  etc. 

This,  if  cast  without  being  stirred,  makes  clear 
candy,  but  to  have  it  white  and  opaque  stir  the 
candy  in  the  kettle  giving  it  only  from  10  to  20 
turns  with  a  spoon,  before  pouring  it  out.  The  flav- 
oring oil  may  be  added  while  stirricg.  Should  the 
oandy  set  in  the  kettle  add  water  and  make  it  hot 
again,  with  care  that  the  candy  does  not  immediately 
begin  to  burn  to  caramel. 


223.    Rose  Cream  Candy. 


The  same  ingredients  and  proportions  as  the  pre- 
ceding receipt.  Boil  to  the  same  degree.  Then  take 
the  kettle  from  the  fire,  let  it  stand  5  minutes  to 
lose  some  of  its  heat,  and  red  coloring  enough  to 
make  it  pink,  and  a  few  drops  of  rose  extract.  Have 
a  buttered  dish  ready,  stir  the  candy  rapidly  with  a 
spoon  till  it  begins  to  change  its  bright  appearance 
to  a  dull  color,  that  is  a  sign  of  setting,  then  pour  it 
immediately  into  the  dish. 

224.    Lemon  Cream  Candy. 

The  same  as  rose  cream  candy.  Flavor  with  oil 
of  lemon  and  use  no  coloring.  This  is  as  white  as 
cake  icing. 


225.    Chocolate  Cream  Drops. 


These  are  lumps  of  cream  candy  coated  by  being 
dipped  in  melted  chocolate. 
Make  white  cream  candy  by  the  method  described 


for  roFe  cream  candy,  but  flavor  it  with  va-^illa  if  at 
all.  Pour  it,  hot  int->  plaster  of  pari*}  molds  if  you 
have  them,  making  hazelnut  sizes  of  drops.  If  no 
molds  form  the  candy  when  nearly  cold  with  the 
fingers,  then  taking  them  on  a  fork  dip  each  piece  in 
a  bowl  of  chocolate,  either  common  or  sweet  vanilla, 
melted  by  being  set  on  the  side  of  the  range,  and  set 
the  drops  on  buttered  pans  to  cool  and  dry.  Other 
shapes  besides  drops  cin  of  course  be  made  in  the 
same  manner.  The  boiled  icings  or  glaze  elsewhere 
described  when  left  over  from  icing  cakes  can  also 
be  formed  into  cream  drops  and  coated  by  dipping 
in  melted  chocolate,  and  so  likewise  can  be  used  the 
common  cake  icing  and  macaroon  mixtures*that  may 
be  lett  over  from  their  first  purpose. 


226.    Ooooanut  Candy. 


Turn  to  receipt  number  222,  tabe  the  same  ingre- 
dients and  boil  the  candy  to  a  degree  a  little  nearer 
the  brittle  stage ;  take  it  from  the  fire  and  put  in  1 
pound  of  fresh  grated  cocoanut.  Stir  rapidly  to 
thoroughly  mix,  then  pour  the  candy  thinly  in  a 
buttered  dish.  When  using  desiccated  cocoanut 
which  has  no  moisture  to  reduce  the  candy  to  thin- 
ness boil  the  candy  only  to  the  point  named  in  the 
first  receipt  and  the  same  as  for  cream  candies. 


227.    Almond  Candy. 

1  pound  or  a  little  less  of  almonds  blanched  and 
split. 

2  pounds  of  granulated. sugar. 
1  pint  scant  of  water. 

1  large  teaspoonful  of  powdered  gum  arable. 

1  level  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Rose  extract  to  slightly  flavor. 

Dissolve  the  gum  in  the  water  made  warm,  add 
the  sugar  and  cream  tartar  and  boil  without  stirring 
15  or  20  minutes.  When  a  drop  in  cold  water  sets 
nearly  hard  so  that  it  can  only  just  be  pressed  flat 
between  the  finger  and  thumb  take  the  kettle  off"  the 
fire.  Drop  the  flavoring  by  spots  over  the  surface, 
give  the  candy  only  one  or  two  turns  with  a  spoon  to 
mix  it  in,  then  pour  it  into  slightly  buttered  pans,  in 
thin  sheets.  Push  the  split  almonds  into  the  warm 
candy  with  the  fingers.  Mark  it  before  it  gets  cold 
for  breaking  by  rolling  over  it  the  edge  of  a  thin 
dinner  plate.  Sliced  cocoanut  can  be  used  instead 
of  almonds. 

228.    Stick  Candy. 


Make  and  boil  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt without  the  almonds.  Pour  the  candy,  or  a 
portion  of  it,  without  stirring  on  to  a  marble  slab. 
Drop  flavoring  over  it  when  partly  cooled,  cut  in 
strips  and  roll  into  round  sticks. 


64 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


229.    "White  Sugar  Candy  to  Pull. 

1  pound  of  white  sugat. 

A  small  half  pint  of  water. 

A  half  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar. 

1  ounce  of  butter 

Oil  of  peppermint  or  lemon  or  other  flavoring. 

Boil  all  together,  except  the  flavoring,  about  15 
minutes.  Try  by  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water.  It 
must  set  hard  to  be  done.  Do  not  stir  it  at  all,  but 
pour  on  a  buttered  dish  and  flavor  when  cool  enough 
to  handle.     Pull  it  till  it  is  quite  white. 

230.    Peanut  Candy. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  peanuts. 

Make  the  peanuts  hot  in  the  oven.  Set  the  sugar 
over  the  fire  in  a  kettle  to  melt  without  any  water. 
Stir  it  a  little.  When  it  is  all  melted  and  of  the 
color  of  golden  syrup  or  light  molasses  mix  in  the 
peanuts,  pour  the  candy  into  a  buttered  shallow  pan 
and  when  nearly  cold  cut  it  into  strips  and  blocks. 


231.  Hickory  nut  and  almond  candy  is  m<»de  in 
the  above  manner,  and  will  be  better  with  a  pound 
of  the  nuts  instead  of  half  a  pound.  In  the  same 
manner  with  a  pound  of  grated  cocoanut  a  brown 
variety  may  be  made  to  match  the  white  and  red 
cocoanut  caramels  (called  also  cocoanut  cakes  and 
cocoanut  gems)  described  at  number  151.  Nougat 
is  the  French  name  of  nut  candies  made  by  melting 
the  sugar  without  water  as  in  the  foregoing  receipts. 


232.    Nougat  Baskets— Corbeilles  de 
Noix. 


The  hickory  nut,  almond,  pecan,  or  cocoanut 
candies  made  as  directed  for  peanut  candy  may  be 
pressed  while  cooling  into  basket  shapes  of  tin  or 
crockery  ware,  and  sticks  and  twists  of  the  same 
placed  for  handles  and  borders.  Very  small  baskets 
formed  in  fancy  gem  pans  are  used  to  fill  with  straw- 
berries or  other  articles  for  ornamental  purposes  on 
set  supper  tables.  For  this  purpose  the  proportion 
of  nuts  may  ba  increased  to  1^  or  even  2  pounds  to 
1  pound  of  sugar. 


233.    Almond  Taffy. 


Called  in  England  Everton  taflFy,  after  a  town  of 
that  name. 

1 J  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  best  fresh  butter. 

1  teacupful  of  vinegar  and  water — about  half  and 
half. 

8  to  12  ounces  of  almonds. 

Scald  and  peel  the  almonds,  split  them  and  spread 
them  evenly  on  two  large  dishes  slightly  buttered. 
Boil  the  other  ingredients  together  about  15  or  20 
minutes.    Shake  them  together  at  first  but  do  not 


stir.  When  a  drop  of  the  candy  sets  quite  hard  nnd 
brittle  in  cold  water  take  it  from  the  fire  and  pour 
it  evenly  all  over  the  almonds,  only  just  deep 
enough  to  cover  them.  This  kind  cannot  be  stirred 
nor  pulled,  as  the  butter  separates  from  the  sugir 
which  then  turns  grainy. 


234.    Caramels,  Plain  or  Maple. 

Make  the  candy  of  the  preceding  receipt,  omitting 
the  almonds.  ^^  hen  it  has  cooled  on  the  dishes 
mark  it  in  squares  with  the  edge  of  a  dinner  plate 
rolled  over  it,  and  when  cold  cut  the  markings 
through,  making  little  square  blocks. 

For  maple  caramels  use  ma,ple  sugar  in  the  same 
way. 


235.    Chocolate  Caramels. 


1  pound  of  sugar — either  brown  or  white  will  do 

1  ounce  of  butter. 
Half  cup  of  milk.    • 

2  ounces  of  grated  chocolate. 
Vanilla  flavoring. 

Set  the  milk,  butter  and  sugar  on  to  boil,  and  stir 
in  the  grated  chocolate  and  flavoring.  After  that 
do  not  stir  the  mixture,  again  or  it  will  go  to  sugar 
in  the  dish.  Boil  about  10  minutes.  "When  a  drop 
in  cold  water  f^^ets  rather  hard  but  not  brittle  pour 
the  candy  into  a  dish  well  buttered.  Mark  in  little 
square  blocks  when  set.  Warm  the  dish  or  tin  tray 
a  little  if  the  candy  sticks. 


236.    Molasses  Candy  to  Pull. 

1  large  coffee  cupful  of  molasses, 

12  ounces  of  sugar,  either  brown  or  white. 

One. third  of  a  cupful  of  vinegar. 

Half  cupful  of  water. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

Put  all  in  a  kettle  and  boil  1  o  or  20  minutes,  Try 
in  cold  water.  It  must  boil  ti  1  the  drops  set  brittle 
and  fairly  snap  between  the  fingers.  Then  pour 
it  on  buttered  plates.    Pul'. 


237.  Molasses  candy  if  not  pulled  but  merely 
allowed  to  set  on  dishes  is  improved  by  having 
about  a  half  teasponful  of  soda  stirred  in  after  it 
has  been  taken  from  the  fire  and  before  it  is  poured 
out.     Flavorings  may  be  added  at  the  same  time. 

238.    Chocolate  Candy  to  Pull. 


8  ounces  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  light  colored  molasses  or  syrup. 

Half  cupful  of  cream. 

1  ounce  of  grated  chocolate. 

Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Boil  the  cream,  molasses  and  sugar  together  about 
15  minutes,  then  throw  in  the  chocolate  and  boil  till 
the  candy  sets  brittle  in  cold  water.  Pour  on  dishes, 
flavor  when  cold  enough  to  handle,  and  pull. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


238  a.    Chocolate  Cream  Drops. 

^  pound  fine  icing  sugar. 

1  teaspoon ful  powdered  gum  arabio, 

2  tablespoons  water. 

1  teaspoon  ful  extract  vanilla. 
^  pound  common  chocolate. 

Cut  up  the  cake  of  chccolate  into  a  tin  cup  and 
set  in  a  shallow  pan  of  hot  water  to  melt  by  heat 
alone  without  adding  any  water. 

Dissolve  the  gum  arable  in  the  two  tablespoons 
of  boiling  (rater  in  a  small  bowl,  then  stir  in  fine 
powdered  sugar  enough  to  make  it  stiff  dough,  ad- 
ding the  vanilla  at  the  same  time.  Turn  it  on  the 
table,  roll  into  a  cord,  cut  off  in  balls  size  of  hazel 
nuts  and  dip  these  in  the  melted  chocolate.  Set  on 
a  pan  or  dish  to  haiden.     Makes  75  to  100. 


238  b.     Chocolate  Creams— Best. 

Make  the  white  inside  the  same  as  for  the  pre- 
ceding and  make  the  balls  up  in  any  shape  desired. 
Instead  of  common  chocolate  merely  melted  dip 
them  in  this  chocolate  icing: 

1  cup  sugar. 

4  tablespoonfuls  water. 

3  ounces  common  chocolate. 
Grate  the  chocolate  and  set  it  on  with  the  sugar 
and  water  to  melt  gradually  in  a  place  not  hot 
enough  to  burn  it.  When  it  has  at  length  become 
boiling  hot  beat  it  to  thoroughly  mix,  and  dip  in  the 
articles  to  be  glazed  while  it  is  hot. 


238  c.    Chocolate  Cream  Dominoes. 

The  white  cream  candy  same  as  for  chocolate 
drops.  Roll  it  out  thin  and  pour  a  layer  of  melted 
chocolate  upon  it.    Cut  when  cold. 


238  cU   Mint  Drops. 

1  pound  pulverized  sugar. 

1  heaping  teaspoonful  powdered  gum  arable. 

6  tablespoonfuls  water. 

1  tablespoonful  essence  peppermint. 
Put  the  water  on  in  a  small  saucepan  or  cup  and 
the  gum  in  it  and  let  warm  up.  When  the  gum  is 
dissolved  put  about  a  quarter  of  the  sugar  in,  let 
boil  up  and  then  add  half  the  sugar  that  remains 
putting  it  in  gradually  without  stirring.  When  it 
boils  again  take  it  to  the  table  and  stir  in  the  remain- 
ing sugar  and  after  that  the  flavoring.  Drop  por- 
tions the  size  of  quarter  dollars  on  sheets  of  paper. 
They  slip  of  the  paper  when  cold.  It  may  be  nec- 
essary to  add  another  tablespoonful  or  two  of  sugar 
to  give  the  drops  consistency  enough  not  to  run  on 
the  paper,  yet  it  is  better  to  be  too  thin  than  too 
mnch  the  other  way. 


238  e.    Wintergrreen  Drops. 

The  same  as  the  preceding,  but  make  them  pink 
with  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  or  vegetable  red  color- 
ing and  use  wintergreen  extract  for  flavoring. 
These  drops  have  a  smooth  surface  but  are  slightly 
granulated  inside.  Clove  drops,  cinnamon  drops, 
etc.,  same  way. 


238  f.    Honey  Nougat. 

A  moist  candy  to  be  sliced,  wrapped  in  wa> 
tis.^ue  paper. 

4  tablespoonfuls  strained  honey. 

2  ounced  almonds,  blanched. 

1  pound  flour  of  sugar,  or  icing  sugar. 
Make  the  honey  hot  without  boiling,  stir  in  the 
sugar  a  little  at  a  time  until  it  becomes  too  firm,thei> 
turn  out  on  the  table  and  knead  in  more  sugar  and 
also  the  almonds,  which  must  be  dry.  When  the 
nougat  is  firm  enough  to  keep  its  form  in  a  square 
bar  like  a  brick  split  lengthwise,  sugar  the  outside, 
roll  it  in  wax  paper  and  keep  it  a  day  before  slicing 
it  up  for  sale.  Wrap  the  little  cuts  likewise  in  wax 
paper. 


238  g.    Tutti-Frutti  Candy. 

Take  the  preceding  receipt  and  add  to  it  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  two  figs  cut  small  and  an  equal 
amount  of  raisins  seeded  and  cut;  work  up  into  a 
bar  with  all  the  fine,  powdered  sugar  necessary  to 
make  it  firm,  cut  in  slices  and  wrap  in  wax  tissue 
paper. 


238  h.    Walnut  Creams. 

1  pound  fine  icing  sugar. 

2  heaping  teaspoonfuls  powdered  gum  arabio. 
5  tablespoonfuls  water. 

3  dozen  walnut  kernels. 

1  teaspoonful  extract  vanilla. 
Put  a  little  sugar  in  the  water  to  make  a  syrup, 
and  the  gum  in  it,  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  gum  is 
dissolved.  Take  it  off  and  work  in  the  powdered 
sugar  gradually  with  a  wooden  paddle.  Add  the 
vanilla.  The  more  it  is  stirred  and  beaten  with  the 
paddle  the  whiter  and  finer  the  candy  becomes.  At 
last  turn  out  the  lump  on  to  the  table — it  is  like 
soft  white  dough — and  roll  it  in  one  long  roll,  out 
off  slices,  stick  a  half  of  a  walnut  kernel  in  each 
piece  and  pinch  (he  paste  up  to  hold  it,  by  shaping 
it  in  the  hollow  of  the  left  hand.  Lay  the  finished 
creams  on  a  tray  ||to  dry.  This  makes  about  6 
dozen.  The  sugar  is  not  boiled,  only  the  hot  gnm 
syrup  is  used. 

238  i.    Date  Creams. 

The  same  as  the  preceding  kind  with  dates  cut  in 
pieces  to  use  instead  of  walnuts. 


66 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


238  j.    Pig  Creams. 

Cut  each  fig  in  six  or  eight  pieces  and  proceed  as 
for  walnut  creams. 


238  k.    Angrelica  Creams. 

Flavor  the  cream  candy  with  extract  of  straw- 
berry instead  of  vanilla.  Cut  green  angelica  or  any 
other  French  candied  fruit  of  a  rich  color  and  use 
as  directed  for  walnut  creams. 


238 1.    Coooanut  Cream  Balls. 

1  pound  pulverized  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  powdered  gum  arable, 
6  tablespoonfuls  water. 

2  tablespoonfuls  cocoanut,  minced. 
2  tablespoonfuls  currants,  mi  need. 
1  teaspoonful  lemon  extract. 

Dissolve  the  gum  in  the  water  hot  and  stir  in  the 
sugar  gradually,  flavor,  fruit  and  cocoanut.  Work 
the  paste  on  the  table  with  sugar  until  it  is  firm 
enough,  cut  oflF  pieces  a')d  roll  into  balls  a  little 
larger  than  cherries.  Sugar  well  outside  and  let 
dry.  The  same  can  be  made  with  candy  colored 
pink.  The  foregoing  kinds  are  all  easy  to  make  be- 
cause there  is  no  boiling  of  sugar. 


238  m.    Cocoanut  Cream  Squares. 

1  pound  granulated  sugar. 

8  ounces  cocoanut  either  fresh  grated  or  desL 
oaied. 

1  small  half  cupful  water. 
Set  the  sugar  and  water  over  the  fire  in  a  smal^ 
brighttkettle  and  boil  about  5  minutes,  or  until  the 
syrup  bubbles  up  thick  and  ropes  from  the  spoon, 
and  do  not  stir  it.  Then  put  in  the  cocoanut,  stir  to 
mix,  and  when  it  begins  to  look  white  pour  it  im- 
mediately into  a  shallow  tin  p-^n.  As  soon  as  it  is 
set  solid  mark  it  off,  and  cut  in  little  squares  when 
oold.  The  same  kind  may  be  colored  red,  and  also 
be  made  with  chocolate. 


238  n.    Conmaon  Boxed  Macaroons. 

12  ounces  almonds. 

8  ounces  granulated  sugar. 

4  ounces  flour. 

4  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 

1  teaapoonful  ammonia. 
Crush  the  almonds  without  taking  off  the  skins, 
with  a  rolling-pin  upon  the  table.  Mix  them  and 
the  powder,  sugar  and  flour  together  in  a  bowl. 
Drop  the  eggs  in  the  middle  and  mix  the  whole  into 
a  rather  soft  dough.  Place  in  lumps  size  of  cherries 
on  baking  pans  very  slightly  greased.     Bake  in  a 


slack  oven  light  brown.    A  few  bitter  almonds  or 
peach  kernels  mixed  in  improves  them. 


238  o.    Fig  Paste. 

3  pints  of  water. 

IJ  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

Juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

6  ounce  of  glucose. 
Boil  sugar  and  water  together  and  thicken  with 
the  starch  same  as  in  making  a  thickened  pudding 
sauce,  then  put  in  tne  glucDse  and  lemon  juice  and 
cook  at  the  side  of  the  range  about  15  minutes. 
Color  a  portion  of  it  pink.  When  nearly  cold  mould 
it  into  any  form  and  roll  in  powdered  sugar. 

The  above  compound  is  the  cheap  gum  drop  of  the 
street  vendors. 


238  p.    Frosted  Grapes. 

Take  grapes  of  twocolor8,as  red  Tokays  and  white 
Muscadels,  and  pull  the  bunches  apart  into  clusters 
of  three  or  four  grapes  each.  Prepare  a  platter  with 
the  sort  of  pulverized  sugar  known  as  fine  granul&< 
ted,  and  make  it  warm.  Whip  some  white  of  eggs 
in  a  shallow  bowl,  dip  the  grapes  in  it,  lay  them  on 
the  sugar  and  sift  more  sugar  on  top.  L<iy  them  on 
sieves  to  dry. 


238  q.    Grapes  Glazed  With  Sugar. 

Divide  some  bunches  of  grapes  into  small  olasters. 
Put  into  a  deep  saucepan 
1  pound  of  sugar. 
1  large  cup  of  water. 
J  teaspoonful  cream  tartar. 
Stir  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  then  set  it  on  to  boil  as 
if  for  candy. 

When  the  syrup  has  boilea  lO  minutes  try  a  drop 
in  cold  waser.  When  it  sets  so  that  it  is  hard  to 
press  between  finger  and  thumb  and  the  edges  of 
drops  are  hard  and  brittle  it  is  ready. 

Take  it  from  the  fire,  dip  the  clusters  of  grapes  in 
(without  ever  stirring  the  candy)  'and  lay  them  on 
dishes  slightly  greased  to  dry.  Should  the  candy 
become  set  in  the  kettle  it  may  have  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  water  added  and  be  made  hot  again. 


238  r.    Frosted  Oranges. 

Make  plain  white  icing  and  use  it  to  dip  orange 
slices  in  just  when  it  has  become  too  thick  with 
beating  not  to  run  off,  and  yet  thin  enough  to  settle 
to  smoothness.  Have  a  long  splinter  or  skewer 
ready  for  each  one.  Stick  the  point  of  a  skewer 
into  the  edge  of  the  orange  section,  dip  into  the 
frosting,  push  the  other  end  of  the  skewer  into  a 
bowl  of  salt,  aud  let  the  pieces  hang  over  the  edge 
of  the  bowl  in  a  warm  plaoo  to  dry. 


THE  AMEBICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


57 


Small  Pastris 


We  have  now  to  take  up  and  conclude  the  list  of 
small  pastries  that  was  dropped  in  order  that  the 
book  of  ices  might  appear  in  the  summer  season. 


239.    Shell  Pies.orVol-  au-vents  of  Fruit 

Crusts  of  pies  that  may  be  baked  beforehand  and 
filled  with  stewed  fruit  only  as  required. 

Cover  the  pie  pan  with  a  thin  rolled  sheet  of  pufF- 
paste,  not  made  thinner  in  (he  middle  as  for  other 
pies  but  left  of  even  thickness  and  smooth.  Cut  a 
mark  half  way  through  the  paste  all  round  the  rim 
of  the  plate,  with  the  point  of  a  knife  and  also  score 
across  the  middle.  When  this  crust  has  been  baked 
the  lid  formed  by  the  cutting  can  be  lifted  off  in  two 
halves  and  replaced  when  the  pie  is  filled  with  fruit. 


240.    Apple  Turnovers. 


Sometimes  served  as  a  "sweet  entree ;"  more  suit- 
able to  put  in  place  of  pie ;  best  for  luncheon,  pic-nic 
parties,  and  for  sale ;  a  favorite  form  of  pastry 
everywhere. 

Make  the  flaky  pie  paste  with  about  12  ounces  of 
butter  to  a  pound  of  flour,  roll  it  out  to  a  thin  sheet 
and  cut  out  flats  nearly  as  large  as  saucers,  with  the 
lid  of  a  baking  powder  can  or  similar  cutter. 

Place  a  good  spoonful  of  dry  stewed  apple  in  the 
middle  of  each  piece  of  paste  and  double  over  in 
half-moon  shape.  Press  the  two  edges  together  and 
crimp  them  with  the  thumb  and  finger.  When  the 
the  baking  pan  is  full  of  the  turnovers  brush  them 
over  with  egg  and  water  and  dredge  granulated 
sugar  on  top.  Bake  slowly  till  they  are  crisp, 
glazed,  and  of  a  fine  reddish  brown  color.  These 
large  sizes  have  generally  to  be  cut  in  two.  They 
contain  more  fruit  and  are  better  eating  than  when 
made  small. 

241.    Cannelons  of  Fruit. 


Proceed  as  if  for  apple  turnovers,  but  cut  the 
sheet  of  paste  into  squares.  Place  a  spoonful  of 
any  kind  of  firm  fruit  jelly  lengthwise  and  roll  up 
the  piece  of  paste  so  to  cover  and  inclose  it.  The 
word  cannelon,  like  cane,  signifies  a  tube  with  a  pith 
in  it.    Egg  over,  dredge  with  sugar  and  bake. 


242.    Mince  Patties. 


Roll  out  a  sheet  of  pie  paste,  or  puff  paste  if  pre- 
ferred, very  thin.  Cut  out  flats  with  a  large  biscuit 
cutter.  Put  a  spoonful  of  mincemeat,  or  lemon 
mincemeat,  or  mock  mincemeat,  on  one  of  the  fla's, 
lay  another  on  top  and  pinch  the  edges  together  all 
round.     Egg  them  over,  dredge,  sugar  and  bake. 


243.    Lemon  Patties. 

May  be  made  as  above  and  filled  with  the  lemon 
butter,  number  39,  or  lemon  paste. 


244.    Saratoga  Shortcake. 


Drain  the  juice  from  canned  strawberries  into  a 
quart  measure.  To  a  quart  allow  12  ounces  of  sugar 
and  set  it  at  the  back  of  the  range  to  simmer  down 
as  thick  as  fruit  jelly.  Then  put  in  the  strawberries 
aad  cook  a  short  time  longer.  Roll  out  two  thin 
sheets  of  ordinary  flaky  pie  paste  and  bake  them 
on  two  baking  pans  of  the  same  size.  When  done 
spread  the  strawberry  compote  on  one  sheet,  place 
the  other  sheet  on  top — moving  it  by  means  of  two 
palette  knives  slipped  under — and  over  the  top  of 
that  spread  a  coat  of  thin  cake  icing.  Dry  the 
icing  in  a  slack  oven  and  let  it  acquire  a  little  pale 
color.     Cut  in  squares  or  diamonds  when  cold. 


245.    Almond  Shortcakes. 


Chop  1  pound  of  blanched  almonds  quite  fine  and 
mix  with  them  12  ounces  of  sugar  and  the  whites  of 
3  eggs,  making  a  sort  of  paste.  A  little  orange  or 
lemon  zest  may  be  added.  Cover  a  baking  pan  with 
a  thin  sheet  of  pie  paste,  spread  the  almond  paste 
evenly  over  it  and  cover  with  another  thin  sheet  of 
pie  paste.  Egg  over  the  top,  dredge  sugar  over  and 
bake  in  a  slack  oven.  Cut  in  oblongs  or  squares 
when  cold.  Several  of  the  nut  creams  and  conserves 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way  instead  of  the  minced 
almonds.  With  a  coating  of  icing  or  glaze  on  top 
the  articles  of  this  class  made  of  pastry  are  found  to 
be  very  saleable  at  the  bakers'  shops. 


246.    Florentines  or  Florentine  Mer- 
ingues. 

Cover  a  baking  pan  with  a  sheet  of  pie  paste 
rolled  out  thin.  Spread  over  the  paste  some  green 
gqge  jam,  strawberiy  jam,  or  fruit  jelly,  and  bake 
it  in  a  slow  oven.  While  it  is  baking  whip  up  the 
whites  of  from  6  to  12  eggs,  and  when  firm  spread  it 
over  the  hot  preserve.  On  top  of  the  white  of  egg  sift 
some  granulated  sugar  and  some  desiccated  cocoanut 
should  bo  strewn  over  that.  Bake  the  cake  about 
10  minutes  more  with  the  oven  door  open.  Cut  in 
squares  when  cold. 

247.    English  Cheesecakes. 

12  ounces  of  sweet  rennet  curd. 
4  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  butter. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 
Pinch  of  salt. 

^  a  nutmeg  grated. 

Lemon  extract  to  flavor. 

To  prepare  the  curd  sea  number  303.  Rub  the 
curd  as  taken  from  the  draining  cloth  through  a 
flour  seive  and  mash  it  smooth.  Add  the  other  in- 
gredients and  pound  them  all  together.  Line  patty 
pans  with  tart  paste  and  nearly  fill  them  with  the 
mixture.  Bake  about  15  minutss.  The  curd  mix- 
ture though  seemingly  too  firm  at  first  melts  and 
puffs  up  in  the  oven.    Powdered  sugar  over  the  tops. 


«8 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


248.    Puff  Paste  and  Cheese,  or  Bame 
quins. 


To  be  served  with  stewed  fruit.  Make  puff  paste, 
but  not  the  richest — using  about  12  ounces  of  butter 
to  a  pound  of  flour.  When  it  has  been  rolled  and 
folded  twice,  the  shortening  being  all  in,  roll  it  out 
again  and  spread  grated  cheese  all  over  it  with  the 
palette  knife.  Fold  and  roll  out  and  spread  cheese 
on  it  again,  and  then  once  more.  When  it  has  been 
folded  5  times  in  all  roll  it  out  thin,  cut  in  squares 
about  2J  inches  wide,  double  these  squares  over 
something  like  split  rolls,  egg  over  and  bake.  A 
small  piece  cut  from  the  pie  paste  when  making 
may  be  enough  to  answer  this  purpose. 


249.    Baked  Bananas  for  Breakfast. 

Peel  the  fruit  and  cut  it  in  halves  lengthwise 
Lay  these  strips  in  close  order  in  a  baking  pan, 
strew  sugar  over  and  some  bits  of  fresh  butter  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  half  an  hour.  The 
fruit  should  be  basted  while  baking  with  a  f  w 
spoonfuls  of  butter  and  sugar  syrup  and  should 
come  out  glazed.    Serve  warm. 


250. 


Crisped  Bananas,  Nerj  Orleans 
Stsrle. 


Peel  and  cut  the  bananas  in  two  across  and  steep 
the  pieces  in  white  sugar  syrup  flavored  with  cut  up 
oranges  and  nutmeg.  When  they  have  steeped  an 
hour  or  two  roll  each  piece  in  dry  flour,  giving  it  a 
a  good  coating,  and  fry  in  olive  oil  or  clarified  fresh 
butter.  Serve  hot  with  the  orange  syrup  they  were 
steeped  in  strained  for  sauce. 


251.     Crisped  Apples. 

Gore  some  good  apples  such  as  easily  cook  soft, 
then  pare  them  and  if  large  out  them  in  two.  Steep 
them  several  hours  in  sugar-and- water  syrup  well 
flavored  with  lemon.  Take  the  apples  out,  roll  them 
over  and  over  in  flour  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard. 
Serve  with  sauce. 

Crisped  pears  can  be  done  the  same  way  if  soft 
varieties  of  the  fruit  are  used. 


262.    French  Frying  Batter. 


Fine  for  pine  apple  and  orange  fritters,  scollops, 
oysters,  frogs,  etc. 

12  ounce'3  of  flour. 

12  whites  of  eggs— J  pint. 

3  ounces  of  olive  oil — 6  large  tablespoonfuls 

3  ounces  of  white  wine  or  sherry. 

Salt,  orange  or  lemon  zest  if  for  fruit  fritters. 

Whip  the  whites  firm  in  a  bowl,  pour  in  the  oil 
and  wine,  then  add  the  flour  by  shaking  in  a  little 
at  a  time.  Stir  till  well  mixed,  use  immediate'y. 
When  this  has  lost  its  first  lightness  by  standing  in 


a  warm  place  a  pinch  of  baking  powder  beaten  in 
improves  it. 


253.    Common  Frying  Batter. 


1  pint  of  milk. 

3  or  4  eggs. 

Little  salt. 

1  large  spoonful  of  melted  butter— 1  ounce. 

Half  as  much  syrup. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  or  quart  of  flour. 

Put  the  flour  in  a  pan,  mix  half  the  milk  and  the 
other  ingredients,  exc<'pt  powder,  together,  and  stir 
up  the  flour  with  them  to  smooth  dough.  Thin  it 
with  the  rest  of  the  mil.k.  Beat  in  the  powder  just 
before  using.  Good  f  r  egg  plant  in  batter,  as  well 
as  fruit  fritters.  Spoonfuls  of  it  fried  in  lard  also 
make  common  fritters. 


254. 


Fritters  a   la    Creme— Breakfast 
Dish. 


A  sort  of  sliced  custard  breaded  and  fried,  made  of 

1  quart  of  milW, 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  mixed  corn  starch  and  flour. 

7  yolks  of  egg". 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
Flavoring.     Salt. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  butter  and  salt  in  it,  Ww 
the  sugar  in  the  starch  and  flour  dry  and  dredge  arrt 
beat  them  into  the  boiling  milk.  Let  it  cook  slowly 
at  the  side  of  the  range  about  10  minutes.  Stir  in 
the  yolks  of  eggs  and  take  it  off".  Flavor  with  lemon, 
cinnamon,  nutmeg  or  vanilla  and  let  it  get  cold  in  a 
buttered  pan.  Roll  the  slices  in  egg,  then  in  cracker 
me-il,  fry  in  lard,  serve  warm  with  syrup.  Any 
good  corn  starch  or  farina  pudding  ei  her  baked  or 
boiled  when  cold  can  be  sliced  and  used  in  the  same 
way. 

265     Sponge  Fritters. 

A  soft  and  spongy  sort  different  from  the  common 
made  with  a  boiled  paste. 
1  pint  of  water. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  flour. 

1  ounce  of  sugar. 

Boil  ihe  waier,  sugar  and  butfer  together,  then 
put  in  the  flour  all  at  once,  as  if  making  queen 
fritters,  and  let  the  paste  cook  about  5  minutes. 
Then  take  it  from  the  fire  and  work  in  the  following 
and  beat  well: 

2  ounces  of  flour. 
Half  cup  of  water. 

5  f  ggs      Flavoring  of  nutmeg  or  vanilla. 
1  traspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Fry  spoonfuls  in  a  saucepan  of  hot  lard  Servo 
with  wine  or  brandy  Eauce. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


69 


256. 


Bread  in  Batter— Smothered. 
Bread. 


Pain  Pkedu. 


12  ounces  of  flour. 

1  pint  of  mila. 

2  ounces  of  butter  melted. 
2  eggs, 

1  tablespoonful  of  golden  syrup. 

25  slices  of  bread — French  rolls  best. 

Mix  the  flour  and  milk  to  make  a  thin  batter  and 
add  the  other  ingredients.  Let  the  bread  slices 
steep  a  minute  or  two  in  it,  then  fry  them  in  hot 
lard.  They  should  be  barely  masked  over  with  bat- 
ter, not  thickly  covered  like  fritters.  May  be  sau. 
teed  in  frying  pans  as  well.  Serve  with  syrup, 
sauce,  or  jelly. 

267.    Fried  Pies. 

Saleable  in  the  baker's  shops.  Make  them  the 
same  as  directed  for  apple  turnovers  with  dough  not 
very  rich.  Use  milk  to  mix  up  with  and  the  dough 
will  have  a  better  brown  color  thaa  with  water. 
Wet  the  edges  with  egg  and  water  to  make  them 
stick  and  keep  out  the  grease.  Drop  the  turnovers 
into  a  pan  of  hot  lard  and  fry  them  brown  like 
faitters  or  doughnuts. 


268.    German  Pancakes. 


This  is  an  anticle  specially  belonging  to  the  restau- 
rant bill  of  fare,  for  its  only  difiference  from  com- 
mon pancakes  or  good  wheat  flour  batter  cakes  is  in 
its  being  baked  thick ;  nearly  as  thick  as  the  omelet 
pan  is  deep;  and  such  a  cake  almost  constitutes  a 
a  meal  by  itself.  They  have  usually  to  be  mixed  up 
at  short  notice.     The  following  is  the  quicKest  way: 

1  pint  of  milk  to  mix  up  with. 
10  yolks  of  eggs. 

4  ounces  of  melted  butter — 3  basting  spoonfulls. 

2  ounces  of  syrup — 1  basting  spoonful. 
Little  salt. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  or  quart  of  flour. 

1  pint  more  m'lk  to  thin  it  down. 

Put  one  pint  of  milk  in  a  pan  and  all  the  other 
things  with  it.  Stir  hard,  rubbing  the  soft  dough 
smooth  and  free  from  lumps,  and  then  add  more 
milk  gradually.  Put  a  spoonful  of  hot  lard  in  the 
small  omelet  frying  pan,  pour  in  about  a  cofiee  cup* 


ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  CREAM. 


ful  of  batter  and  bake  it  light  brown  on  both  sides. 
Serve  with  butter  and  syrup.  These  cakes  are 
richer  made  with  the  yolks  only  than  when  the 
whole  eggs  are  put  in. 


269. 


French  Pancakes— "Jenny  Lind 
Pancakes " 


1  pound  of  flour. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

14  eggs. 

\  pint  of  milk, 

I  large  spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

1  pint  of  cream  to  whip. 

Half  cup  of  brandy. 

Little  salt. 

Separate  the  eggs  and  mix  the  yolks  with  the  milk, 
throw  in  the  sugar,  butter,  brandy  and  salt,  then  all 
the  flour  and  mix  up  smooth.  Whip  the  cream  and 
mix  that  with  the  batter,  then  whip  the  whites  and 
stir  in.  Bake  thin  pancakes  in  omelet  pans.  Being 
sweet  they  burn  easily.  When  done  on  both  sides 
spread  a  spoonful  of  currant  jelly  on  the  pancake 
and  roll  it  up  like  an  omelet.  Sift  powdered  sugar 
on  top.  Or,  roll  up  plain  and  serve  a  little  jelly  in 
the  dish     For  cheaper  kinds  see  wheat  batter  cakes. 


260.    Petits  Pates— Small  Patties. 


A  delicate  sort  of  small  patties  have  the  crust 
made  by  frying  the  coating  of  batter  that  will  adhere 
to  a  solid  copper  shape  that  is  dipped  into  it,  by  im- 
mersion in  hot  lard.  The  shell  can  be  shaken  cfT 
when  done  and  the  copper  wiped  and  dipped  in  the 
batter  ngain  for  another.  The  batter  will  not  adhere 
if  the  copper  shape  is  made  too  hot.  The  German 
pancake  batter  or  that  made  for  waflSes  will  answer; 
the  best  for  the  purpose  is  the  French  frying  batter 
made  wi'h  oil  and  wine.  Fill  the  shells  with  chicken 
or  partridge  or  other  minced  meat. 

The  copper  shape  will  hardly  be  found  ready 
made  Get  a  copper  bolt  made  into  the  outward 
shape  and  size  of  a  very  small  fluted  tumbler,  but 
solid,  and  a  handle  a  foot  or  two  in  lergth  fastened 
in  the  top  to  dip  it  by. 


Copper  Head  Patty  Feieb,  fob  Small  Patties  a  la 
MojJGLAs,  Etc. 


THE  WIRE  EGG  BEATER. 


60 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


261.    Apple  Creamcake. 

For  4  or  6  cakes  for  a  hotel  supper  take: 

3  pounds  of  flour — 12  cupfuls. 

2  pounds  of  butter  or  lard --4  cupfuls. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

1  quart  of  ice  water. 

More  flour  to  dust  with. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  dry  between  the 
hands.  Use  salt  only  when  lard  is  employed  for 
shortening.  Make  a  hollow,  pour  in  the  water^ 
mix  up  soft,  and  roll  out  on  the  table. 

It  makes  the  cake  flaky  and  part  in  layers  to 
roll  it  and  fold  it  a  few  times  like  pie  paste. 

Roll  out  as  thick  as  biscuit  at  last  and  bake  on 
jelly  cake  pans.  Split  them  open,  spread  apple 
cream  thickly  between  and  powdered  sugar  on  top. 


262.    Apple  Cream. 

4  cupfuls  of  grated  apple. 

2  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  water. 

legg. 

Flavoring  of  minced  orange  or  lemon  peel. 

Either  grate  apples  on  a  tin  grater  or  finely 
mince  them;  put  the  specified  quantity  into  a 
saucepan  with  all  the  other  ingredients  and  stir 
them  over  the  fire  about  ten  minutes. 


263.  Covered  Lemon  Pie— "Without  Eggs. 

8  ounces  of  sugar — 1  large  cupful. 

3  ounces  of  flour — 1  small  cupful. 

1  lemon 

1  pint  of  water — 2  cupfuls. 

Grate  rind  of  the  lemon  into  a  small  saucepan, 
using  a  tin  grater  and  scraping  off  with  a  fork 
what  adheres.  Squeeze  in  the  juice,  scrape  out 
the  pulp,  chop  it,  put  in  the  water  and  boil.  Mix 
the  sugar  and  flour  together  dry  and  and  stir  them 
into  the  boiling  liquor.  When  half  thickened  take 
it  off  and  let  finish  in  the  pies. 

The  above  makes  two  large  pies  or  three  small. 
It  is  necessary  to  be  particular  to  get  the  right 
amount  of  flour.  The  mixture  is  pale  yellow  from 
the  rind  and  sugar. 

For  the  crust  rub  half  a  pound  of  shortening 
into  a  pound  of  flour,  mix  with  cold  water  and 
roll  out  three  times.  Put  top  as  well  as  bottom 
crust  on  these  pies. 


264.    Macaroon  Cake. 

Often  incorrectly  ca'led  macaroni  cake.  A  spec- 
ialty at  some  of  the  fine  bakeries. 

It  is  a  sheet  of  cake  with  macaroon  paste  baked 
on  top  and  fruit  jelly  in  spots.    For  the  cake  take 


1  pound  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

6  eggs. 

1  small  cupful  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Flour  to  roll  out — about  2  pounds. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  and  stir  them  to- 
gether to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs  two  at  a  time, 
then  the  milk,  then  the  powder  and  most  of  the 
flour.  Work  the  dough  on  the  table  by  pressing 
out  and  folding  it  till  it  can  be  rolled  out  to  a  sheet. 
Roll  it  thin  as  if  for  cookies,  cut  to  the  size  of  your 
baking  pans,  roll  up  the  piece  of  dough  on  the 
rolling-pin  and  unroll  it  on  the  pan,  previously 
well  greased.  Bake  very  light  colored  and  not 
quite  done,  because  it  has  to  be  cooked  again. 


265.    Macaroon  Paste. 

12  ounces  of  grated  cocoanut. 

8  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 

2  whites  of  eggs. 

Little  lemon  extract. 

Stir  the  above  ingredients  together  in  a  bowl,  ihi 
sugar  and  whites  first  and  the  cocoanut  added. 

Place  the  paste,  either  with  a  teaspoon  or  with 
a  tube  and  forcing-sack,  in  long  cords  across  thfl 
sheets  of  cake,  and  then  diagonally  across  to  form 
diamond-shaped  hollows.  The  cord  of  macaroon 
paste  need  be  no  thicker  than  a  pencil.  Then  bak« 
in  a  slack  oven  with  the  door  open  till  top  is  brown. 
When  cold  drop  spots  of  clear  fruit  jelly  in  the 
hollows  between  the  ridges  of  macaroon  paste. 


266.    Macaroon  Tarts. 

Line  small  patty  pans  with  sweet  tart  paste, 
half  fill  with  macaroon  paste,  made  either  with 
grated  cocoanut  or  minced  almonds,  and  bake 
slowly  in  a  very  slack  oven.  The  insides  rise  round* 
ed  and  partially  hollow. 


267.    Napoleon  Cake. 

Roll  out  two  sheets  of  puff  paste  quite  thin  and 
bake  on  baking  sheets. 

When  done  spread  pastry  cream  (No.  285)  upon 
one  sheet,  place  the  other  on  top  of  it,  and  finish 
the  top  with  the  pearl  glaae.  No.  2.  Cut  in  dia- 
monds or  squares. 

Another  pastry  cake  of  the  same  sort  will  be 
found  at  No.  244. 


268.    Bismarcks. 

Large  doughnuts  of  the  plain  sort  directed  at 
No.  561,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  stewed  fruit  inside, 
cut  out  like  thin  biscuits,  allowed  to  rise  and  then 
fried. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


61 


A   Book  of  Puffs,    Eclairs  and  Cream 
Fillings. 


Sooner  or  later  it  was  morally  certain  these 
things  would  get  into  the  papers ;  the  common  dark- 
ness surrounding  the  subject  and  the  many  inno- 
cent deceptions  practiced  for  that  reason  makes  this 
necessary. 

For  bills-of-fare  may  promise  fairly  enough,  but 
there  is  not  the  least  certainty  that  the  promised 
puflf  fritter  will  come  to  table  puffy,  and  it  is  differ- 
ent with  it  than  with  almost  anything  else  in  this 
world ;  we  are  accustomed  to  speak  of  hollow  frauds 
and  hollow  mockeries,  but  a  puff  fritter  is  only  a 
fraud  when  it  is  not  hollow,  and  you  can  never 
properly  call  a  puff  fritter  your  "solid,"  unless  it  is 
a  solid  mockery  of  what  it  ought  to  be. 

There  are  at  least  a  dozen  cooks  in  Sleepy  Hollow 
who  can  not  make  puff  fritters  hollow,  and  possibly 
the  most  of  them  do  not  even  know  what  they  are, 
and  yet  would  resent  any  hint  that  they  are  not 
first-class  cooks.  But  they  are  not  the  only  ones. 
There  was  a  cook  of  considerable  repute,  who  ran  for 
several  successive  seasons  on  that  splendid  steamer, 
the  Aberbrothock,  and  he  made  it  a  point  to  have 
what  he  called  bell  fritters,  for  one  of  his  "sweet 
entrees"  always  for  the  last  dinner  of  the  trip. 

He  went  through  the  motions  of  making  puff  frit- 
ters, and  he  made  a  nice  spongy  sort  of  an  article, 
but  nobody  could  see  why  it  was  called  bell  fritter, 
because  it  was  not  "hollow  as  a  bell,"  and  had  not 
even  a  space  inside  big  enough  to  hang  the  smallest 
kind  of  a  clapper.  But  one  day,  by  some  accident, 
he  got  the  proportions  just  right,  and,  to  his  aston- 
ishment, when  he  dropped  the  fritters  into  the  hot 
lard,  they  presently  began  to  swell.  The  pieces  of 
the  paste  he  dropped  in  were  as  big  as  goose  eggs  at 
first,  which  was  entirely  too  large  in  any  case,  but 
he  had  not  been  used  to  seeing  them  increase  much. 
But  this  time  they  swelled  and  they  swelled,  and  by 
the  time  they  had  attained  to  the  size  of  canteloup 
melons,  and  the  two  at  the  bottom  had  hoisted  all  the 
rest  and  were  about  to  pitch  them  over,  the  cook 
was  thoroughly  scared ;  he  thought  Old  Nick  was 
inside  them,  and,  hastily  seizing  the  saucepan  by  the 
handle,  he  threw  it  and  the  whole  caboodle  out  of 
the  cook-house  window. 

Puff  fritters,  or,  rather,  the  want  of  them,  was  the 
cause  of  a  good  deal  of  unhappiness  at  the  Scylla 
Cottages,  for  several  years. 

There  is  not  a  more  delightful  winter  resort  than 
the  Scylla  Cottages,  on  the  dreamy  Southern  coast. 
It  is  noted  the  world  over  for  its  location  upon  the 
very  verge  of  Percival's  beautiful  coral  grove,  where 
the  purple  mullet  and  the  gold-fish  rove,  and  is  only 
a  two  hours'  easy  boat-row  from  the  Isle  of  Calms, 
where  the  sea  throws  up  some  new  and  exquisite 
tropical  shells  every  day,  and  Morris's  folks,  in  pen- 
sive thought,  can  wander  on  the  sea-beat  shore  in  an 


atmosphere  of  perpetual  Spring.  But  there  had  to 
be  some  eating  done  even  in  Eden,  and  the  Scylla 
Cottages  were  kept  as  an  hotel  by  an  estimable  land- 
lady. She  prided  herself  upon  her  life-long  experi- 
ence in  housekeeping. 

Her  regular  patrons  from  the  North,  who  arrived 
punctually  each  year  just  before  New  Year's,  had 
discovered  a  spell  to  keep  her  in  subjection.  "What 
society  shall  we  have  this  year  ?  Whom  do  you  ex- 
pect?"— and  then — "Have  you  found  a  cook  yet  who 
can  make  those  delightful  soulfle  fritters?  Oh,  they 
make  them  so  elegantly  at  Long  Branch !  And  you 
did  not  succeed  with  the  receipt  we  sent  you  ?  Dear 
me — and  we  procured  it  from  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated cooks,  it  must  have  been  right.  Why,  they 
make  them  over  there  at  the  Chary bd is  Hotel,  per- 
haps  as  elegantly  as  our  cooks  do  at  Long  Branch, 
and  that  is  quite  a  splendid  place,  the  Charybdis, 
but  we  seem  to  have  become  attached  to  this  spot. 
0,  if  you  only  had  a  really  good  cook!" 

Of  course  these  intellectual  people  were  not  in 
earnest ;  nobody  cares  for  a  fritter,  more  or  less,  but 
they  knew  that  in  this  way  they  could  infuse  gall 
and  bitterness  into  somebody's  life,  and  when  they 
were  good  natured  they  played  the  subject  for  sport, 
and  when  they  were  really  mean  through  eating  too 
much  green  turt-e,  they  rung  the  changes  for  pure 
spite.  They  would  even  go  over  for  a  day  or  two  to 
the  Charybdis  Hotel,  which  is  really  a  very  fine 
place,  with  splendid  shell  roads  and  two-forty  nags 
to  drive  on  them ;  magnificent  rows  of  magnolias, 
fig  orchards  and  oranges ;  but,  being  a  literary 
and  artist  sort  of  crowd,  they  better  liked  the  at- 
mosphere of  the  Isle  of  Calms,  for  "the  nightingales 
sing  round  it  all  the  day  long,"  and  the  Southern 
sunsets  from  that  point  are  most  gorgeous. 

As  to  the  Charybdis  Hotel  fritters,  they  were  hol- 
low, it  is  true,  but  they  were  little,  old  hardshell 
things,  and  whenever  they  were  served  the  guests 
had  to  be  furnished  with  nut-crackers  to  break  them 
with.  And  yet,  that  cook  was  so  proud  of  them  that 
he  guarded  the  secret  of  making  them  from  the 
boys  as  carefully  as  if  he  had  discovered  a  new 
Aladdin's  cave. 

He  needed  not  have  been  so  careful.  If  there 
were  any  use  of  it,  no  doubt  but  as  many  as  fifty  va- 
rieties of  hollow  fritters  could  be  made.  The  key  to 
the  whole  matter  is  this:  370. 

If  you  make  a  very  stiff,  smooth,  cooked  paste  of 
flour,  then  work  in  gradually  about  half  its  weight  of 
raw  eggs  you  have  a  fritter  paste  that  when  dropped 
in  hot  lard  will  swell,  and  each  piece  become  as  hollow 
as  an  egg  shell.  Any  other  substance,  corn  starch, 
corn'meal,  banana  pulp,  fruit  pulp  of  any  kind,  cheese, 
almost  anything  smooth  will  act  the  same  way,  either 
alone  or  mixed  with  flour.  We  shall  have  more  to 
say  about  this  when  we  come  to  souffle  pudding 

But  these  simple  foundations  are  not  particularly 
good  eating,  and  have  to  be  enriched.  Their  tenden- 


68 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


cy  to  puff  up  is  already  at  the  strongest,  and  what- 
ever is  added  must  be  so  balanced — more  eggs  against 
more  butter  and  sugar — as  not  to  destroy  it.  In 
things  like  these  requiring  exact  proportions  it  may 
make  a  difference  if  the  eggs  used  be  unusually  large 
or  small.  There  is  no  magic  in  the  number ;  it  is 
weight  you  want.  Ten  eggs  average  a  pound.  And 
it  may  make  a  difference,  too,  if  the  water  be  al- 
lowed  to  boil  away  after  being  measured. 

The  receipt  nextToUowing  gives  the  kind  that  was 
made  by  the  Charybdis  Hotel  cook,  and  which  he  was 
so  afraid  lest  anyone  should  find  out.  They  used  to 
be  called  Baptist  fritters,  because  they  are  never  truly 
good  until  they  have  been  immersed — in  syrup.  In 
campmeeting  countries  where  they  are  sold  on  the 
grounds  by  measure,  the  statute  requires  them  to 
weigh  four  pounds  to  the  bushel.  They  can  be  made 
to  weigh  less  if  made  larger.  The  number  of  eggs 
in  the  receipt  is  left  optional.  The  Charybdis  man 
only  used  four  because  they  were  dear,  and  he  had 
to  carefully  round  off  the  fritters  as  he  dropped  them, 
because  while  the  rich  kinds  will  smooth  themselves 
in  the  frying  fat,  these  only  come  out  with  all  the 
rough  corners  magnified.  You  will  like  them  with 
six  eggs,  and  are  not  obliged  to  furnish  nut  .crackers, 
even  with  the  other  proportion. 


21\. 


Hardshell  Fritters. 


1  pint  of  water. 

^  pound  of  flour. 

4,  5,  or  6  eggs. 

Slight  seasoning  of  salt. 

Bring  the  water  to  a  boil  in  a  bowl-shaped  sauce- 
pan of  good  size ;  drop  in  the  flour  all  at  once  and 
stir  to  a  firm,  smooth  paste,  which  will  require  about 
five  minutes  over  the  fire.  Then  take  it  off  and, 
after  letting  it  stand  a  few  minutes,  work  in  the  eggs 
one  at  a  time  with  a  large  spoon.  Beat  the  paste  up 
against  the  side  for  at  least  five  minutes.  It  does 
no  harm  to  let  the  paste  stand  an  hour  or  two  before 
frying,  after  it  is  made,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  cold  before  the  eggs  are  beaten  in.  Set  on  an 
iron  frying  kettle  half  filled  with  clarified  meat  fat, 
and  when  that  is  hot  drop  in  pieces  of  the  paste 
about  as  large  as  guinea  eggs.  Only  a  few  at  a  time. 
When  done,  take  up  with  a  skimmer ;  drain  on  a 
colander  or  seive ;  serve  with  syrup.  Makes  twen- 
ty-five. 


3TS.  CORN  STARCH  FRITTERS. 


Balloon   Fritters. 


The  boss  fritters  of  the  tribe.  Crisp  and  fine.  No 
limit  to  their  swelling  capacity  but  the  size  of  the 
kettle.  When  made  of  the  size  of  footballs  the  ket- 
tle has  to  be  set  in  the  oven  to  finish,  because  they 
merely  float  on  top  of  the  fat  and   cannot  cook 


through.  Weigh  the  starch;  don't  trust  the  paok> 
ages  for  weight. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

J  pound  of  corn  starch. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

8  eggs.     Little  salt. 

These  are  made  same  way  as  the  "hardshells," 
except  that  the  starch  has  to  be  mixed  separately. 
Boil  half  the  milk  with  the  butter  and  salt  in  it,  and 
mix  the  starch  smooth  with  the  other  half;  pour  it 
in  the  saucepan  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes 
a  firm  paste  well  cooked. 

Beat  the  eggs  in  one  at  a  time.  Have  fresh  sweet 
lard  moderately  hot,  and  drop  in  pieces  of  the  paste 
as  large  as  guinea  eggs,  by  pushing  them  off  the 
point  of  a  spoon.  They  need  considerable  time  to 
fry.  Serve  with  sauce ;  transparent,  wine,  brandy, 
lemon  or  custard.  Makes  about  twenty-five  or 
thirty. 


CROUSTADES  SOUFFLES. 


3T3. 


Fried  Puff  Borders. 


For  individual  entrees.  Suitable  to  serve  instead 
of  Yorkshire  pudding  with  any  roasted  or  braised 
meat  having  a  brown  gravy. 

Make  either  the  corn  starch  fritter  paste  or  the 
queen  fritter  paste  next  following.  Put  it  in  the 
lady-finger  sack  and  press  out  in  piping  smaller  than 
a  little  finger,  on  to  a  greased  tin  lid  or  a  baking  pan 
of  small  size.  Form  the  piping  into  oval  rings  the 
size  required  for  your  individual  dishes.  When  the 
frying  fat  is  ready,  turn  the  lid  upside  down  with 
the  rings  on  it  and  dip  them  in  the  fat.  They  will 
immediately  slip  off  and  retain  their  shape  while 
frying,  but  puff  considerably.  Where  many  are 
wanted  at  once,  a  baking  pan  does  best  to  fry  in,  a 
smaller  sized  tin  pan  that  will  go  down  in  it  being 
used  to  make  the  shapes  on.  Instead  of  forcing  sack 
and  tube,  a  half  sheet  of  stiff  paper,  made  into  a 
cornet,  pinned,  and  the  point  cut  off,  will  do. 
Serve  hot,  with  the  meat  in  the  centre  and  gravy  in 
the  '"sh. 


The  two  following  are  the  kinds  that  they  made  so 
elegantly  at  Long  Branch. 

Beignet  is  the  French  word  for  fritter.  Souffle  is 
puff.  Souffle  is  puffed.  Perhaps  puffed  fritter 
would  be  better  English  than  puff  fritter,  but  com- 
mon usage  seems  to  sanction  the  latter. 

»T4.  

Queen  Fritters.      Beignet  Souffles. 

Sometimes  filled   with   pastry-cream  and   called 
beignets  au  frangipane. 
1  pint  of  water. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 
8  ounces  of  flour. 
10  eggs. 


THE  AMEKICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


63 


Boil  the  water  and  butter  together  in  a  bowl- 
shaped  saucepan  large  enough  to  beat  the  mixture 
in.  Put  in  the  flour  all  at  once  and  stir  over  the 
fire  till  you  have  a  firm,  well-cooked  paste.  Take  it 
from  the  fire,  let  it  stand  to  lose  a  few  degrees  of 
heat,  then  work  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  with  a 
spoon,  and  beat  the  paste  well  against  the  side  of 
the  saucepan.  Fry  same  as  the  other  varieties. 
They  may  be  glazed  by  sifting  powdered  sugar  on 
them  and  melting  it  by  setting  in  the  top  of  a  hot 
oven,  or  else  with  a  red  hot  salamander  or  shovel, 
held  over.  May  be  served  also  with  raspberry  vin- 
egar, lemon  juice  and  sugar,  custard,  or  any  pud- 
ding sauce.     The  receipt  makes  forty  to  fifty. 

None  of  these  fritters  require  any  such  thing  as 
soda,  or  baking  powder,  or  any  substitute  as  is  often 
absurdly  directed ;  neither  do  the  eggs  require  beat- 
ing,  otherwise  than  in  the  paste,  as  described. 

These  remarks  apply  as  well  to  all  the  baked  puflFs, 
eclairs,  talmouses,  etc.,  of  similar  character. 

When  any  of  them  fail  to  puff  up  as  expected,  it 
usually  requires  another  egg  in  the  paste.  There  is 
a  certain  point  of  softness  when  the  paste  will  al- 
most  run  out  of  a  spoon,  but  not  quite,  that  is  the 
best  for  lightness,  and  is  soon  learned  by'practice.* 


»75.  SPANISH  PUFF  FRITTERS. 


Beignets  Souffles,  a  la  Vanille. 


All  the  preceding  kinds  are  unsweetened  and 
cook  light  colored  ;  these  contain  sugar  and  require 
care  to  prevent  their  becoming  too  dark  in  frying. 

1  pint  of  water. 

7  ounces  of  butter. 
3  ounces  of  sugar. 
10  ounces  of  flour. 
6  eggs,  or  7  if  small. 

2  teaspoonfuls  extract  vanilla. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  butter  and  sugar  in  it,  put 
in  the  flour  and  make  the  fritter  paste  same  way  as 
directed  for  the  preceding  kinds,  adding  the  va- 
nilla with  the  last  eggs. 

Fry  in  good  lard  slowly.  They  may  be  five  min- 
utes before  they  begin  to  expand.  Take  them  out 
with  a  skimmer ;  drain  on  a  colander ;  dredge  pow- 
dered sugar  over  and  serve.  Enough  for  average 
orders  of  fifty  persons. 


Fritters  glaces  au  rhum,  or  otheiwise,  are  fritters 
glazed,  either  with  a  thick  sugar  syrup  flavored  with 
rum  (a  rich  pudding  sauce)  poured  over  them,  or 
else  powdered  sugar  melted  on  the  fritters  in  the 
manner  before  described. 


STO,      Ring  Puff's   With  Jelly. 

For  luncheon  or  supper. 

Make  a  puff  fritter  paste,  the  Spanish  puff  prefer- 
able, but  the  others  will  answer.  Put  a  tube  in  the 
forcing  sack  not  much  larger  at  the  point  than  a  pen- 


cil, and  half  fill  the  sack  with  the  paste.  Squeeae 
out  piping  and  form  rings  of  it  the  size  of  the  top  of 
a  coffee  cup,  on  tin  lids  previously  greased  over  with 
lard.  When  the  frying  fat  is  hot,  dip  the  lids  in  it 
upside  down  and  the  rings  will  slip  off.  Fry  them 
light  brown;  drain  on  a  colander;  split  them  all 
round  with  a  sharp  penknife ;  spread  jelly,  or  fruit 
jam,  or  lemon  butter  between  the  halves  ;  place  them 
together  again,  dredge  powdered  sugar  over  and  pile 
on  a  stand  covered  with  a  napkin. 


STT.    Ring  Puffs  With  Peaches. 


Make  the  rings  asin  the  preceeding  case.  Instead 
of  splitting  and  spreading,  place  them  in  dishes  or 
saucers  and  half  a  peach  on  top  of  each,  the  syrup 
to  be  poured  under.  The  peach  halves,  if  the  entre- 
met  is  to  be  served  hot  for  dinner,  should  be  baked 
for  the  purpose,  with  sugar  and  butter,  or  else 
stewed  in  syrup.  If  to  be  served  cold,  preserved  or 
brandy  peaches  can  be  used. 


378. 


Bell  Fritters. 


This  is  the  way  they  were  made  by  the  cook  of 
that  splendid  steamer,  the  Aberbrothock,  when  he 
made  them  right  and  threw  them  out  of  the  cook- 
house window  in  alarm  because  they  swelled. 

1  pint  of  water. 

3  ounces  of  butter,  or  lard. 

8  ounces  of  flour. 

5  eggs,  or  6  if  small. 

Make  as  directed  for  queen  fritters.  Good  lard  is 
preferable  to  bad  butter. 


What  do  you  do  with  the  stale  pieces  of  bread  that 
are  left  over  so  abundantly,  wherever  there  is  an 
abundant  table  set  and  people  pick  and  choose  so  ? 
Good  bread;  not  therough,  unshapely  biscuits  spoiled 
with  inferior  yellow  baking  bowder,  top  crust  blis- 
tered and  bottom  crust  soiled,  so  brittle  and  coarse 
that  they  crumble  in  the  fingers,  go  down  like  saw- 
dust and  leave  a  taste  of  soda  and  salt  butter  in  the 
mouth,  but  nice  slices  of  white  bread,  good  rolls, 
flaky  biscuits,  fine  grained  muffins.  There  are  about 
three-score-and-ten  needs  and  uses  for  such  as  these 
in  good  cooking.  In  half  of  them  nothing  but  bread 
will  do,  in  the  other  half  bread  makes  a  good  substi- 
tote  for  something  else,  as  in  this  receipt. 


StO. 


Bread  Puff  Fritters. 


1  pint  of  water  or  milk, 

f  pound  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
5  eggs. 

Shave  all  crust  off  the  bread  and  crumble  it  fine. 
Boil  the  water,  put  the  bread  crumbs  in  and  sti? 
and  mash  to  a  smooth  paste  over  the  fire — five  min- 
utes— then  add  the  butter,  and  when  it  is  worked  iu 


64 


THE  amehican  pastry  cook. 


take  the  paste  from  the  fire  and  beat  in  the  eggs  one 
at  a  time  as  for  other  fritters. 

This  makes  a  good  fritter,  but  less  certain  to  be 
hollow  than  others;  depends  on  the  fineness  of  the 
bread. 


The  next,  made  by  a  different  method,  is  one  of 
the  most  delicate  preparations  of  the  potato.  But 
there  are  potatoes  and  potatoes.  It  would  be  labor 
thrown  away  to  use  any  but  the  best  flavored  and 
mealiest  for  such  a  purpose. 

880.  

FRENCH  POTATO  FRITTERS. 


Beignets  de  Pomme   de  terre. 


Potato  puree  and  eggs  beaten  light  and  fried.  Hors 
d'  auvre,    (side  dish)   or  vegetable  garnish   for  en- 
tress,  or  sweet  entremet  with  brandy  sauce. 
1 J  pounds  of  pared  raw  potatoes. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

Same  of  white  wine  or  sherry. 

6  whole  eggs  and  4  yolks. 

Juice  of  half  a  lemon.     Nutmeg. 

Boil  the  potatoes  well  done  in  salted  water,  drain 
dry  and  mash  them  thoroughly — better  through  a 
colander.  While  still  warm,  mix  in  all  the  other 
ingredients  except  the  flour.  Then  set  the  pan  or 
bowl  in  ice- water  and  beat  the  mixture  15  minutes 
or  more,  like  making  sponge  cake.  When  light  stir 
in  the  flour.  Fry  small  spoonfuls,  egg-shaped,  in 
hot  lard.  Drain  on  paper.  Serve  hot.  Makes  about 
60.     Not  hollow,  but  very  light. 


381.      Transparent  Fritters. 


Crisp.  White.  Good  to  use  up  whites  of  eggs 
left  out  of  muffins,  custards,  etc.,  wherein  they  do  no 
good.  Serve  with  red  wine  sauce,  or  lemon  juice 
and  sugar. 

^  pint  of  milk,  or  water. 

3  ounces  of  butter,  or  lard. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

J  pound  of  white  of  eggs  (9  whites). 

Make  as  directed  for  other  starch  fritters.  Fry 
slowly.  If  the  batter  is  beaten  too  much  after  the 
whites  are  all  in,  the  fritters  are  liable  to  explode 
when  near  done.  (They  never  explode  on  the  table 
— no  danger.) 


We  now  come  to  cheese  puffs  and  creams.  In  the 
great  majority  of  instances  when  anything  made 
with  cheese  appears  in  a  bill  of  fare,  the  kind  named 
is  Parmesan.  Besides  this,  the  cook  is  directed  to 
use  various  other  foreign  cheeses,  according  to  what 
the  purpose  may  be.  In  Italian  cookery,  one  writer 
observes,  "several  varieties  of  cheese  are  much  em- 
ployed :  such  as  the  cheese  of  Switzerland  and  Sa- 


voy, under  different  names;  and  Parmesan  (named 
from  Parma),  though  it  is  made  in  all  the  north  of 
Italy,  and  particularly  in  Lombardy.  Gruyere 
cheese  is,  however,  most  used  throughout  Europe; 
Parmesan  is  twice  or  thrice  the  price  out  of  Italy. 
In  Italy,  a  plateful  of  grated  cheese  is  mostly  served 
with  the  soup,  when  each  guest  takes  what  he  likes 
and  mixes  it  on  his  own  plate." 

Another  writer  says:  "My  friends  had  two  sur- 
prises of  which  I  myself  had  not  thought — Parmesan 
served  with  the  soupe,  and  a  glass  of  dry  madeira 
after.  These  were  two  novelties  lately  imported 
(into  France)  by  Prince  Talleyrand,  the  first  of  our 
diplomatists,  to  whom  we  owe  so  many  wise  and 
witty  sayings,  etc." 

Every  well  regulated  hotel  storeroom  of  course  has 
all  the  different  varieties  of  cheese  on  shelf,  properly 
labeled,  so  that  the  cook  can  have  all  the  world  be- 
fore him  where  to  choose.  But  those  who  live  where 
it  is  found  difficult  to  obtain  anything  but  American 
cheese,  if  they  have  not  already  read  it,  will  be  grat- 
ified and  interested  in  reading  the  following,  fr  m 
"Practical  Cooking  and  Dinner  Giving." 

"Among  the  best  cheeses  of  England  are  the  Stil- 
ton and  Cheshire ;  of  France,  are  those  of  Neufchatel 
Brie  and  Roquefort.  The  fromage  de  Roquejort  is, 
perhaps,  one  of  the  most  popular  of  all  cheeses.  The 
Gruyere  cheese  of  Switzerland  is  also  a  well  known 
cheese.  It  is  made  from  new  milk,  and  flavored 
with  a  powdered  herb.  The  Roquefort  cheese  is 
made  of  a  mixture  of  sheep's  and  goat's  milk.  The 
Parmesan  (an  Italian  cheese)  is  made  of  skimmed 
milk.  It  is  a  high-flavored  and  hard  cheese,  and  is 
not  rent  to  market  until  it  is  six  months  old,  and  is 
often  kept  three  or  four  years.  It  is  extensively 
used,  grated,  for  cooking. 

Our  American  cheeses,  since  .ne  introduction  of 
the  factory  system,  are  exported  in  immense  quanti- 
ties to  England,  where  they  are  much  ought  for,  and 
considered  by  epicures  as  great  luxuries.  This  is 
generally  astonishing  to  Americans  abroad,  who,  at 
home,  often  consider  it  only  in  rule  to  offer  guests 
cheese  of  foreign  manufacture. 

*  ^  *  *  *  * 

Perhaps  the  cheapest  of  the  foreign  famous  cheeses 
is  the  Neufchatel.  It  comes  in  little  rolls  about  an 
inch  thick  and  three  inches  long,  is  enveloped  in  tin- 
foil and  costs  about  twenty  cents  a  roll. 

The  tariff  may  be  saved  by  purchasing  the  Neufchatel 
manufactured  in  New  Jersey  and  Westchester  County, 
New  York.  As  for  that,  the  Stilton  made  in  Cayuga 
county  can  hardly  be  dected  from  the  Leicestershire 
manufacture  itself;  and  in  fact,  nearly  all  the  famous 
cheeses  are  very  perfectly  imitated  in  America,  so  that 
those  who  choose  may  indulge  in  foreign  names  and 
encourage  home  manufacture  at  the  same  time." 

The  moral  to  be   drawn   from  the   preceding  *r- 
tract  is  that  for  cooking  purposes  at  least,  American 
cheese  will  do  very  well,  even  for  dishes  au  Parme- 
I  tan,  or  d  la  Parmesane. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


08 


Parmesan  Fritters  with  Apples. 

383. 

J  pint  of  water. 
1  ounce  of  butter. 
4  ounces  of  flour. 

4  ounces  of  cheese. 

5  or  6  eggs. 

Grate  the  cheese,  if  dry  enough,  or  else  mince  it 
extremely  small. 

Make  the  puff  fritter  paste  by  boiling  the  water 
with  the  butter  in  it  and  then  stirring  in  the  flour. 

When  well  cooked  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire, 
add  the  grated  cheese  an  d  beat  it  into  the  hot  paste 
with  a  pestle.  Then  work  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time 
and  beat  the  mixture  for  several  minutes.  Fry 
small  fritters.  They  swell  very  much  and  are  not 
good  if  dark  colored.  When  done,  drain  them — on 
paper  if  necessary — open  each  one  with  a  twist  of  a 
fork,  and  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  dry-stewed  apple 
seasoned  with  fresh  butter.  When  the  cheese  is  of 
a  very  dry  sort,  a  little  more  butter  is  needed  to 
make  the  paste. 


The  receipt  preceding  and  the  next  to  follow  have 
been  rehabilitated  from  some  of  those  delightfully 
vague  instructions  for  making  Italian  or  other  dish- 
es, which  say,  "take  a  glass  of  water  and  a  handful 
of  cheese  and  a  pounded  anchovy,  and  some  flour, 
and  eggs  enough  to  make  a  paste  not  too  thin,  etc  ' ' 
The  anchovy  is  for  flavor  and  can  be  added  or  not, 
at  pleasure. 


383. 


Ramequin   Puflfe. 


Make  the  cheese  fritter  paste  of  the  foregoing  re- 
ceipt. 

Cut  some  manilla  paper  in  broad  ribbands,  and 
brush  them  over  with  a  little  melted  lard. 

Form  the  paste  in  ring  shapes  on  these  papers,  by 
pressing  it  out  of  a  paper  cornet,  or  a  sack. 

These  are  not  slender  rings,  but  more  like  flat 
cakes  with  a  depression  in  the  centre. 

Draw  the  bands  of  paper  through  the  hot  frying- 
fat  and  the  puffs  will  slip  off.  They  should  be  fried 
of  a  light  color.  Drain,  then  split  them  as  you 
would  muffins,  and  spread  between  some  creamed 
cheese  or  fondue.  Dredge  a  little  gra  ed  cheese  on 
top,  and  set  the  pan  containing  them  in  the  top  of 
the  oven  for  two  minutes  before  serving.  Care  is  re- 
quired in  forming  the  shapes  not  to  have  them  too 
large,  as  they  expand  considerably. 

384.  

About  Clarifying  Prying  Pat. 


A  number  of  articles  have  now  been  described  in 
this  column  that  have  to  be  fried  by  being  immersed 
in  hot  fat,  enough  at  least  to  cover  them.  As  it  may 
be  a  long  time  before  th^v  will  have  to  be  mentioned 


again,  a  few  explanations  here  come  in  place. 

When  the  clear  fat — possibly  several  inches  deep 
— is  skimmed  off  the  top  of  the  soup  stock  boiler  and 
strained  into  a  frying  kettle,  it  looks  clear  enough 
and  ready  for  frying.  But  in  fact  it  contains  a  good 
deal  of  water  and  gelatinous  matter  that  must  be  got 
rid  of. 

When  it  is  set  on  the  range  it  soon  boils  rapidly, 
and  inexperienced  persons  are  apt  to  think  that  it 
is  then  ready  to  receive  the  articles  to  be  fried,  but 
if  they  are  dropped  in  at  that  stage  they  only  boil  all 
away  to  a  mush,  and  perhaps  the  grease  foams  over 
on  to  the  range.  If,  however,  the  grease  is  allowed 
to  continue  boiling — it  may  take  an  hour — the  water 
will  all  be  expelled  and  the  gelatinous  matters,  or 
gravy,  will  all  be  found  coated  over  the  bottom  of 
the  kettle.  The  grease  is  then  motionless  and  will 
soon  begin  to  smoke — it  is  hotter  than  boiling  water. 
If  now  poured  off  into  a  clean  saucepan,  it  is  clari- 
fied and  ready  for  frying  in,  and  may  be  set  away  to 
get  cold  and  used  whenever  wanted  without  any 
more  preparation. 

If,  instead  of  pouring  it  into  a  clean  saucepan,  the 
articles  to  be  fried  are  put  into  the  grease  in  the  same 
kettle  it  was  boiled  down  in,  they  will  dissolve  more 
or  less  of  the  sediment  on  the  bottom,  the  grease 
will  become  turgid  and  foam  over  and  take  fire,  and 
instead  of  the  articles  browning  they  are  apt  to  stick 
on  the  bottom  and  the  whole  contents  acquire  a 
burned  and  smoky  taste.  Hence  the  necessity  of 
clarifying  all  fat  that  is  saved  from  the  cooking  of 
meats. 

When  meats  are  baking  in  the  oven,  all  the 
fat  that  may  be  taken  out  as  long  as  there  is  water 
in  the  pan  is  in  precisely  the  same  condition  as  that 
taken  from  the  soup  stock,  and  contains  meat  gravy. 
It  is  then  what  is  called  drippings. 

But  when  the  meat  has  become  browned  and  the 
gravy  in  the  pan  dried  and  browned  too,  then  all  the 
fat  that  remains  is  clarified  and  will  set  like  tallow 
when  cold ;  it  can  be  poured  from  the  pan  into 
a  saucepan  direct,  and  used  to  fry  with  immedi- 
ately. 

When  kidney  fat,  or  other  fat  pieces  of  meat  are 
rendered  down  in  a  meat  pan,  they  should  be  treated 
just  like  the  baked  meats;  cooked  with  a  little  water 
in  the  pan  at  first,  but  allowed  to  dry  out  and  let  the 
glaze  be  fixed  to  the  bottom  before  the  clear  grease  is 
poured  off. 

Articles  properly  made  and  properly  fried  and 
drained  afler  frying  have  so  little  grease  left  about 
them  that  it  is  scarcely  appreciated;  but  what  they 
are  liable  to  have  about  them  are  sickly  flavors  of  the 
nature  of  vegetable  oils  that  the  frying  fat  may  have 
gathered  from  other  vessels.  The  bay  leaf,  onion, 
celery  and  herbs;  the  cloves,  mace,  lemon,  or  what- 
ever is  put  in  the  soup  are  fine  whilst  they  are  liv- 
ing flavors,  but  their  essential  oils  carried  over  in 
the  fat  to  the  frying  saucepan  are  not  so  pleasant. 
Therefore  the  clear  fat  should  be  saved  before  any 


66 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


of  these  seasonings  are  put  in  the  stock  pot.  An  or- 
ange or  pineapple  fritter  may  have  had  the  fruit 
soaked  in  good  wine  and  the  batter  made  of  the 
lightest  kind,  but  if  fried  in  fat  from  stuffed  pork  or 
wild  fowl,  the  first  thing  the  tongue  will  be  conscious 
of  will  be  the  ghosts  of  departed  onions.  The  table 
may  be  furnished  expensively,  and  the  bill-of-fore  be 
full  of  French  terms,  yet  if  these  little  matters  be 
thought  too  trivial  there  will  be  an  indescribable 
something  that  will  detract  from  the  pleasure  of  eat- 
ing at  your  table.  If  fat  containing  oil  of  onions 
must  be  used,  keep  it  for  frying  onions  in.  Beef 
fat  is  well  nigh  tasteless,  and  is  good  alone;  see  that 
nothing  goes  into  the  rendering  pan  that  will  in- 
jure it. 


Frangipanni-Prangipane. 


A  strange  trait  it  is,  but  civilized  humanity  al- 
ways seems  to  be  ashamed  of  its  subjection  to  the 
necessity  of  eating,  and  is  always  ready  either  to 
quarrel  with  its  bread  and  butter  or  laugh  at  it. 
So  strong  is  this  tendency,  that  only  a  very  few  au- 
thors of  the  utmost  independence  and  decided  power 
have  cared  to  treat  of  matters  of  food  and  drink  in  a 
serious  manner.  The  nation  that  is  credited  with 
being  the  most  highly  civilized  in  Europe,  finding 
that  all  its  civtlization  did  not  redeem  it  from  the 
necessity  of  eating,  made  the  best  of  the  difficulty, 
and  elevated  the  entire  matter  to  a  point  of  re- 
spect, which  the  other  peoples  acknowledge  whether 
they  understand  or  not. 

But,  "Oh,  if  we  could  only  live  without  eating!" 
is  the  common  aspiration  still.  Some  fanciful  story 
tellers  have  imagined  people  living  on  air  alone; 
quaffing  the  rich  south  wind  as  real  people  quaff 
wine.  Others  have  come  down  a  little  lower,  from 
airy  nothings  to  trifles  light  as  air. 

"That  suits  me  exactly,"  says  one  of  Disraeli's 
ladies,  "I  am  a  great  foe  to  dinners,  and,  indeed,  to 
all  meals.  I  think  when  the  good  time  comes  we 
shall  give  up  eating  in  public,  except,  perhaps,  fruit 
on  a  green  bank,  with  music." 

"It  is  a  pity,  my  lord,"  says  one  of  Bui wer's  char- 
acters, "that  we  do  not  serve  perfumes  at  dessert;  it 
is  their  appropriate  place.  In  confectionery  (delicate 
invention  of  the  Sylphs,)  we  imitate  the  forms  of  the 
rose  an5  the  jessamine;  why  not  their  odors,  too?" 

"It  is  an  exquisite  idea  of  yours,"  said  he,  "and 
the  next  time  you  dine  here  we  will  have  per- 
fumes." 

It  seems  likely  enough  that  this  very  conceit  grew 
out  of  the  name,  frangipane,  by  which  the  cream  or 
custard  used  for  filling  puffs  is  known  to  French 
cooks.  Thackeray,  who  names  a  cook  Champig- 
non, at  the  same  time  calls  a  milliner  Mademoiselle 
Frangipanni. 

Frangipanni  was  as  common  a  perfume,  it  ap- 
pears, as  eau-de-cologne  is  now.       Savarin,  examin- 


ing the  causes  of  obesity,  finds  Lis  fat  neighborii 
showing  a  partiality  for  such  tilings  as  tourte  de 
frangipane,  which  in  English  is  cream  pie.  Wor- 
cester ^finds  that  both  these  are  one  word,  the 
Italian  being  frangipanna,  frangipane  the  French, 
but  that  it  means  two  things — a  perfume  of  jasmine, 
and  milk  boiled  down  thick  and  mixed  with  al- 
monds.  So,  as  Tommy  Traddles  would  say,  "There 
you  are !"  The  people  had  a  perfume  which  they 
admired,  but  it  would  not  satisfy  hunger;  they  made 
an  almond  cream  and  thought  it  so  good  they  named 
it  perfume.  An  obvious  compromise  between  ethe- 
rial  longings  and  material  needs.  And  thus  it  is  the 
art  of  cookery  meets  every  requirement,  even 
of  the  delicate  people  who  really  eat  nothing  at 
all. 

Whatever  it  may  have  been,  the  frangipane  of  the 
present  time  is  not  made  with  condensed  milk,  and 
the  nearest  approach  to  the  old  definition  is  a  receipt 
that  directs  almond  macaroons  to  be  broken  up  in 
it.  The  compounds  carrying  the  name  are  all  made 
with  flour,  and  the  flavors  vary. 


PASTRY  CREAM  OR  CUSTARD. 


385. 


Prangipan 


The  kind  commonly  used  by  bakers  for  filling 
cream  puffs,  etc. 
1  quart  of  milk. 
8  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

5  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 
1  ounce  of  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  of  extract  of  lemon. 

Set  the  milk  and  butter  on  to  boil.  Mix  the  flour 
and  sugar  together  while  dry,  very  thoroughly,  then 
sprinkle  them  in  the  milk  rapidly  and  keep  beating 
till  it  is  well  up  to  the  boiling  point  again.  It  is 
worthless  if  in  the  least  scorched.  Move  it  to  the 
side  of  the  range  and  stir  in  the  five  eggs,  cover  and 
let  simmer  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  or  till  well 
cooked.     Flavor  after  cooling. 

Extra  Touches. — Three  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
lightly  browned  in  a  frying  pan  over  the  fire  and 
then  added  to  the  pastry-cream,  gives  it  richness, 
and  flavor  of  nuts.  Almond  macaroons  may  be 
broken  into  the  milk  when  first  put  on  to  boil. 

Thick  whipped  cream  can  be  lightly  stirred  into 
the  pastry-cream  when  the  articles  to  be  filled  are 
for  immediate  use. 

When  the  pastry-cream  is  for  cream  pie,  or  tourte 
de  frangipane;  or  for  fauchonettes,  which  are  small, 
deep  tarts  nearly  filled  with  it  and  meringued  on 
top  like  lemon  pies;  or  for  cream  cake,  the  difference 
required  is  only  to  use  8  yolks  instead  of  the  5 
whole  eggs,  and  make  the  cream  as  usual.  The  juice 
of  a  lemon  may  be  added  for  pies.  The  whites  of 
the  eggs  make  the  meringue. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


67 


286.     Chocolate  Pastry  Cream. 


For  feuchonettes  au  choclat,  iclairs  au  chocolat, 
etc. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 
4  ounces  of  flour. 

2  ounces  of  grated  chocolate. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  milk,  butter  and  grated  chocolate  to 
gether.  Mix  sugar  and  flour  drj  and  beat  them  into 
the  boiling  milk.  Stir  awhile  to  prevent  burning, 
then  set  the  saucepan  on  the  side  of  the  range  and 
stir  in  the  yolks,  after  beating  them  with  a  spoonful 
of  milk.  Let  cook  till  well  thickened.  Flavor  with 
the  vanilla  when  cold. 


S87,       Coffee  Pastry  Cream 


1  pint  of  clear,  ver    strong  coflee. 
1  pint  of  cream. 

Use  these  instead  of  the  quart  of  milk,  and  make 
according  to  directions  for  common  pastry-cream. 


On  board  ships  and  steamers  where  milk  for  cook- 
ing purposes  can  seldom  be  obtained,  all  the  pastry- 
creams  are  made  nearly  as  good  with  water.  An 
ounce  of  butter  extra  is  then  needed. 


The  reader  perceives  that  as  cream  fillings  a  vari- 
ety of  dissimilar  compounds  here  come  together. 
They  are  alike,  however,  in  being  each  one  adapted 
for  several  uses,  for  spreadin2  on  toast,  cakes,  filling 
tarts,  tartlets,  pies,  etc.,  besides  filling  cream  puffs. 
In  another  point  they  are  all  alike,  and  one  being 
learned  the  rest  become  the  easier  for  it.  They  all 
have  to  be  stirred  over  the  fire  till  thickened — that 
one  touch  of  cookery  makes  the  whole  lot  kin.  Five 
different  English  cook  books  contain  directions  for 
making  the  simple  base  of  several  conserves,  to  follow 
here  presently,  that  is  what  is  called  there  transpar- 
ent pudding,  and  on  this  side  is  pretty  well  known 
as  transparent  pie.  Only  two  of  the  five  give  the 
essential  point  of  cooking  the  mixture  over  the  fire 
before  the  pies  are  filled  with  it,  and  one  of  these 
copies  verbatim  from  the  older  one,  except  the 
change  of  a  single  word.  One  says  stir  till  like 
buttered  eggs,  the  other  says  till  like  batter.  The 
consequence  of  it  is  that  the  mixture  put  into  the 
pies  raw  will  rise  and  look  fine,  but  when  done  will 
go  down  and  become  like  wax;  whereas  if  previously 
cooked  it  remains  lio;ht  and  delicious. 


S88.    Transparent  Pie  Mixtm-e. 


Used  also  for  puffs  and   tarts,  variously  flavored. 

\  pound  of  sugar. 

^  pound  of  butter. 

8  eggs. 

Nutmeg  or  vanilla  flavor  and  brandy,  if  desired. 


Melt  and  stir  the  butter  and  sugar  together  in  a 
sauce  pan;  add  the  eggs,  beaten  a  little  first,  and 
stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  till  it  is  half-cooked, 
ropes  from  the  spoon,  and  looks  like  soft  butter.  If 
for  puffs  or  tartlets  it  may  be  well  cooked  and  fla- 
vored with  orange  or  lemon.  For  pies,  dredge  a 
little  powdered  sugar  over  the  top  of  the  mixture 
when  in  the  crusts — helps  to  prevent  scorching  on 
top.     Slow  oven.     Makes  4  or  5  pies. 


The  French  name  for  tarts  or  little  pies,  made 
with  the  preceding  mixture  and  several  variations  of 
it,  is  dariolts.  Young  Quentin  Durward,  of  Scott's 
novel,  on  his  first  arrival  in  France,  is  set  down  to  a 
feast  of  a  choice  order,  and  is  served  with  durioles  in 
the  second  course.  One  English  definition  of  dari- 
ole  is  a  custard  tart.  But  the  nearest  the  English 
cooks  could  come  to  fitting  it  with  a  term  was  to  call 
it  a  cheesecake.  Neither  term  is  appropriate.  The 
following,  one  of  the  dariole  fillings,  is  called  in  one 
place  "cheesecake  to  keep  several  years."  Although 
containing  eggs,  the  keeping  qualities  of  these  prepa 
rations  are  such  as  to  entitle  them  to  be  called  con- 
serves. 


389. 


Lemon  Conserve. 


Also  called  dariole  filling,  lemon  custard,  lemon 
cheesecake,  lemon  paste,  lemon  honey,  etc.  For 
filling  small  puffs,  tartlets,  pies,  and  spreading  on 
larger  cakes. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

5  or  6  lemons. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

8  yolks  and  1  Whole  egg. 

Put  the  butter  and  sugar  in  a  bright  saucepan, 
grate  the  yellow  rinds  of  the  lemons  into  i^  with  a 
tin  grater,  scraping  off  with  a  fork  what  adheres; 
sqeeze  in  the  juice  without  the  seeds,  then  stir  over 
the  fire  till  the  mixture  boils.  Beat  the  yolks  and 
mix  them  in  and  stir  about  ten  minutes  more,  or 
till  cooked  and  thick  like  melted  cheese. 

Lemons  that  are  green,  tliick-skinned  and  acrid 
are  not  fit  for  this  purpose. 

It  is  a  rule  useful  to  remember  that  these  mixtures 
seldom  if  ever  scorch  when  they  have  butter  in 
them;  they  may  be  left  to  simmer  at  the  side  when 
time  presses. 

200,     Conserve  aux  Amandes. 


For  small  puffs,   almond  cream  cake,  tartlets,  etc. 

8  ounces  of  almonds. 

\  pint  of  water. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

6  bitter  almonds  and  a  little  rose  extract,  if  they 
are  convenient. 

Scald  the  almonds  and  take  off  the  skins,  then 
chop  them  fine. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTKY  COOK. 


Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  thick  syrup;  stir 
n  the  minced  almonds  and  the  butter  and  boil  five 
minutes. 

Then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  take  the  mix- 
tureoflFthe  fire  when  they  thicken.  Add  the  rose 
flavor  when  cold. 


1391. 


Coooanut  Conserve. 


8  ounces  of  grated  cocoanut. 

^  cupful  of  milk,  or  water. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

Whites  of  four  eggs. 

Thin  pared  yellow  rind  of  ^  an  orange. 

Mince  the  orange  peel  and  boil  it  with  the  sugar 
and  milk.  Stir  in  the  cocoanut,  the  butter,  and 
the  beaten  whites  last.  Take  the  mixture  off"  when 
it  thickens. 

The  two  preceding  kinds  give  a  yellow  and  a 
white  nut  cream  or  conserve,  very  useful  and  orna- 
mental for  spreading  between  layers  of  snow  cake. 
Pistachios  and  hickory  nuts  can  be  substituted  for 
either  of  the  other  kinds.  Can  be  thinned  with 
milk  if  too  firm  when  cold. 

It  is  seldom  necessary  to  keep  any  such  compounds 
as  these  in  hotel  work  for  any  length  of  time.  The 
quantities  prescribed  are  for  the  usual  daily  require- 
ments of  50  persons.  It  should  be  remembered, 
however,  that  sunlight  turns  butter  rancid,  and 
anything  containing  it  should  be  kept  dark  in  cov- 
ered jars. 


Florida  Jam. 


"Florida  shall  be  the  name  of  this  new  land," 
cried  Ponce  de  Leon,  "for,  in  truth,  it  is  a  flowery 
land.     What  sayest  thou  Padre  Rotundo?" 

*'As  thou  sayest  I  say.  Florid  is  the  red-bird 
flitting  through  the  green  bushes;  florid  the  flamingo 
in  the  swamp;  florid  the  sea  weeds  were  that  floated 
about  our  vessel  as  we  passed  yon  enchanted  islands 
set  in  a  luminous  sea." 

"Beautiful  isles  of  the  sea,"   murmured  Gonzalez. 

"Beautiful  gems  of  the  ocean,"    sighed  Leonardo. 

"Surely,"  went  on  Ponce  de  Leon,  "they  are  the 
veritable  isles  of  the  blessed  that  we  thought  were 
but  fables  of  the  ancients,  and  this  is  the  garden  of 
the  Ilesperides." 

"No  gold,  no  gold,"  groaned  Sebastiano,  throwing 
down  his  prospecting  pan  and  pick,  "I  have  delved 
among  the  sands  of  yonder  shore  and  found  naught. 
Padre  Rotundo,  thou  sayest  these  shell  mounds  show 
that  this  land  was  once  the  ocean's  bed,  show  us, 
then,  where  lie  the  wrecks  of  ancient  ships  gold- 
laden;  or,  Padre,  show  us  the  streams  that  flow 
down  from  El  Dorado." 

"And  if,"  said  Ponce  de  Leon,  pursuing  his  own 
train  of  thought,  "this  be  the  garden  of  the  Hesperi- 
des,  somewhere  in  its  glades  exists  the  fountain  of 


perpetual  youth.  That  will  I  find.  Perish  thy 
thoughts  of  gold." 

"I  am  with  thee  in  that  search,  Don  Leon  I" 
exclaimed  Leonardo.  "Oh,  would  I  were  a  boy 
again!" 

"Listen  to  the  mocking-bird,"  said  Ponce  de 
Leon. 

"Aye,"  answered  Leonardo,  "and  the  woodpecker 
tapping  the  old  hollow  tree." 

"And  the  voice  of  the  turtle  is  heard  in  the  land," 
chimed  in  the  oily  voice  of  Padre  Rotundo. 

"Land  of  love  and  sunny  skies,  bright  with  joy 
and  beauty,"  exclaimed  Leonardo. 

"Sebastiano,  what  ails  thee,"  asked  Gonialez, 
"why  blinkest  thou  at. the  sky?' 

"Oh,  'tis  nothing;  but  a  jay  bird  sat  majestic  on 
yon  hickory  limb,  and  when  he  winked  at  me  should 
I  not  wink  at  him  ?  Perhaps  he  knows  where  there 
is  gold." 

"Gold  I  believe  in  when  I  see  it,  but  in  omens  1 
do  not  believe." 

"I  do.  I  had  a  dream  the  other  night  when  every- 
thing was  still — " 

"A  fig  for  thy  dreams." 

"By  our  good  Saint  Augustine,"  said  Padre  Ro- 
tundo, "as  thou  saidst  figs,  we  will  have  some  figs. 
Bring  me  the  figs  of  Smyrna  that  remain  in  the 
boat,  and  we  will  plant  the  seeds.  Haply  in  this 
genial  land  the  fig  will  prosper,  and  many  that  come 
after  us  shall  bless  us.  Yea,  my  son,  there  shall  bfe 
in  this  land  fountains  and  streams  of  perpetual 
youth.  They  shall  flow  from  the  North  and  West 
and  East,  arid  be  of  many  generations.  In  magnolia 
parks  and  orange  groves  and  by  the  river  St.  John's, 
eyes  shall  look  love  to  eyes  that  speak  again;  and 
there  shall  be  many  a  sly  flirtation  by  the  light  of 
the  chandelier  in   the   halls  of  And 

there  shall  be  gold,  Sebastiano,  but  not  for  thee.  The 
hotel-keepers  of  the  future  shall  see  it.  Gold  and 
letters  of  credit  from  the  frozen  North.  Golden  or- 
anges, too,  that  shall  make  this  land  wear  a  likeness 
to  the  gardens  of  thy  native  Seville." 

"Padre,"  said  Ponce  de  Leon,  drawing  near  and 
speaking  in  a  low  tone,  "dost  remember  the  convent 
garden  near  Seville,  into  which  we  stole,  thou  and  I, 
when  we  were  small  boys,  to  see  thy  sister  once 
more  ?  And  dost  remember  the  spicy  breeze  that 
was  wafted  to  us  from  the  refectory,  where  the  sis- 
ters were  preparing  confections  and  conserves  of  or- 
ange flowers?  And  dost  remember  how  they  caught 
us  and  made  us  work  till  our  arms  did  ache,  at 
pounding  orange  rinds  in  a  mortar;  whilst  thou 
didst  nearly  roast  at  stirring  orange  jam?" 

"Tut,  tut,"  returned  the  Padre,  "I  choose  not  to 
remember  such  undignified  incidents.  Yet  if  thou 
wilt,  thou  mayst  compare  the  delicate  fancy  of  those 
good  women  for  confections  made  of  flowers,  with 
the  cruel  extravagance  of  the  pagan  Romans  who 
desolated  the  groves,  and  made  costly  dishts  of  the 


THE  AlttERIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


69 


tongues  of  thousands  of  singing  birds,   and  thou 
wilt  concede  the  finer  grace  of  the  later  day." 

But  Ponce  de  Leon  had  not  been  listening.  His 
thoughts  were  far  away,  and  he  sighed,  "Her  bright 
smile  haunts  me  still.' 


8»3.  Florida  Conserve  of  Oranges. 


For  darioles,  mountain  cakes,  eclairs  auz  confitures^ 
tartelettcs  a  V  orange,  etc. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
4  large  oranges. 

2  or  3  lemons — juice  only. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

6  yolks  and  2  whole  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  rose 

Put  the  sugar  and  butter  in  a  bright  saucepan; 
grate  in  the  yellow  rinds  of  the  oranges  and  add  an 
ounce  of  candied  orange  flowers,  if  you  have  them. 
Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  the  oranges  and  lemons  with- 
out the  seeds,  and  stir  the  syrup  thus  made  over  the 
fire  till  it  boils.  Beat  the  eggs  and  yolks  a  little,  add 
them  and  let  cook  till  the  mixture  becomes  thick — 
about  ten  minutes.  Add  the  rose  extract  after 
cooling. 


An  ancient,  cheap,  but  laborious  way  of  making  a 
conserve  of  oranges  or  lemons,  is  to  boil  the  rinds  in 
two  or  three  waters  for  several  hours,  to  extract  the 
bitter  taste  and  make  them  tender;  then  pound  them 
to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  and  boil  the  paste  with  either 
honey  or  syrup. 


A  large  proportion  of  the  area  of  the  Bahama  Is- 
lands is  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  pineapples.  The 
appearance  of  the  broad  expanse  of  young  fruit  with 
its  clusters  of  delicately-tinted,  but  sharp  and  ser- 
rated leaves,  rising  only  a  short  distance  from  the 
ground  and  covering  the  undulating  fields,  produces 
a  very  remarkable  effect.  As  many  as  1,500,000  of 
the   fruit  have   been  collected  from  a  single  acre 


393.   Corn  Starch  Pastry  Cream. 

1  pint  of  water  or  milk. 
6  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Flavoring. 

Boil  the  water  or  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it.  Mix 
the  starch  with  a  little  water  extra;  pour  it  in  the 
saucepan  and  stir  up.  Then  before  it  has  boiled 
again,  add  the  eggs  and  butter  and  stir  till  the  mix- 
ture becomes  quite  thick — perhaps  ten  minutes. 
Flavor  when  cool. 

Variation. — A  small  ripe  lemon  cut  in  shreds — 
the  seeds  thrown  away — boiled  with  the  sugar  and 
water,   makes  or  the  preceding  a  lemon   cream  pie 


filling.     It  should  be  only  half-cooked  over  the  fire, 
and  allowed  to  set  in  the  pies  in  the  oven. 

S94. 


Creamed  Cheese. 


For  filling  cheese  puff  fritters — betgnets  auparme- 
san— for  ramequin  puffs,  canapes  au/romage,  etc. 

8  ounces  of  cheese. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

1^  pint  of  milk. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

Little  cayenne  pepper  and  salt. 

Grate  or  mince  the  cheese  very  fine;  put  it  and  al 
the  other  ingredients  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  over  the 
fire  till  it  becomes  thick  and  just  begins  to  boil;  but 
it  must  not  quite  boil,  as  that  would  spoil  it. 

As  the  good  quality  of  this  preparation  is  depend- 
ent upon  its  being  made  only  just  before  it  is  to  be 
served,  and  cheese  grating  is  one  of  the  tedious 
operations,  it  will  be  found,  for  hotel  use,  more  ex- 
peditious to  pound  the  cheese  and  butter  together, 
slightly  warmed,  then  pour  in  milk  and  yolks  and 
stir  till  thickened.  Can  be  used  as  a  sauce  with 
Italian  fritters,  made  a  triflle  thinner. 

S05.  

Cheese  Fondu,  or  Melted  Cheese. 


For  Welch  rare-bits,  canapes  au  fromage,  etc. 

See  preceding  receipt  for  creamed  cheese,  and 
substitute  ale  for  the  milk.  Either  of  the  ways  an- 
swers for  all  the  purposes  of  the  other. 

For  canapes,  spread  the  mixture  on  toast,  and  put 
in  the  oven  three  minutes  before  serving. 


The  preceding  form  of  melted  cheese  is  also  one 
form  of  the  fondue,  which  does  not  come  under  the 
present  category.  It  may  be  noted  in  passing,  how- 
ever, that  the  fondue  of  which  Savarin  thought  so 
much,  was  more  like  a  dish  of  scrambled  eggs  with 
cheese,  having  no  ale  or  other  liquid  added.  He 
says  it  is  of  Swiss  origin,  and  that  the  cayenne  is  not 
to  be  forgotten,  that  being  a  characteristic  of  the 
dish.  He  made  his  fondues,  when  entertaining  a 
few  friends,  in  a  chafing  dish  over  a  spirit  lamp. 
His  rule  would  be  singularly  inappropriate  in  an  ho- 
tel entertaining  five  hundred  people.  He  says  al- 
low one  egg  for  each  guest,  one-third  as  much 
cheese  and  half  that  of  butter,  etc.  But  it  illus- 
trates  the  idea  underlying  small  bills  of  fare,  that 
every  person  Avill  partake  of  the  one  dish,  if  that 
one  dish  be  made  of  surpassing  excellence. 


The  reader  perceives  that  as  cream  fillings  a  vari- 
ety of  dissimilar  compounds  here  come  together. 
They  are  alike,  however,  in  being  each  one  adapted 
for  several  uses,  for  spreading  on  toast,  cakes,  filling 
tarts,  tartlets,  pies,  etc.,  besides  filling  cream  puffs. 
In  another  point  they  are  all  alike,  and  one  being 
learned  the  rest  become  the  easier  for  it.  They  all 
have  to  be  stirred  over  the  fire  till  thickened — that 
one  touch  of  cookery  makes  the  whole  lot  kin. 


70 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


A  BOOK  OF  PUFFS,    ECLAIRS  AND 
CREAM  FILLINGS—Conoluded. 


If  a  list  had  to  be  made  of  the  articles  of  pastry 
held  highest  in  popular  esteem,  cream  puflfe  would 
be  found  somewhere  near  the  beginning.  The  pop- 
ular name,  Boston  cream  puffs,  might  lead  to  the 
supposition  that  they  are  of  American  origin,  but, 
far  from  it,  there  is  so  little  in  our  trade  that  is  new 
that  I  have  a  private  opinion  that  Pharaoh's  baker, 
the  one  who  befriended  Joseph,  knew  how  to  make 
them  just  as  well  as  we  do.  There  are  many  finer 
and  more  delicate  articles  that  meet  with  less  appre- 
ciation, and  when  we  find  a  thing  so  prone  to  disap- 
pear, not  only  from  the  baker's  windows,  but  from 
well-set  supper,  lunch  and  dinner  tables,  too,  as 
cream  puflFs  are,  it  is  the  part  of  good  policy  to  see 
how  we  can  make  the  best  of  them.  There  is  more 
wit  and  humor  in  these  puflFs  than  in  anything  else  we 
make  If  it  were  not  for  this  they  would  be  in  still 
greater  request  than  they  are.  Wit  is  defined  as 
something  which  startles  by  its  unexpectedness.  Wit 
often  runs  to  practical  jokes.  When  a  person  eating 
in  haste,  as  the  majority  do,  takes  a  bite  of  a  puff 
that  is  filled  with  a  cream  insufficientfly  cooked  and 
consequently  in  a  fluid  state,  and  the  said  cream  is 
unexpectedly  propelled  this  way  and  that  way  over 
his  apparel,  the  wit  of  it  may  be  apparent  to  all,  but 
is  sure  not  to  be  relished  by  the  victim.  This  sort 
of  wit  should  be  discouraged,  to  which  end  the  vari- 
ous cautions  about  the  proper  preparations  of  the 
pastry  creams  have  already  been  given.  Humor  is 
not  so  objectionable,  and  when  pure  most  people  en- 
joy it.  It  is  defined  as  a  faculty  of  kindly  pleas- 
antry. The  humor  of  cream  puffs  is  seldom  un- 
mixed. 

There  is  humor,  but  not  of  a  kindly  sort,  in  giv- 
ing a  plate  of  empty  puffs  to  a  hungry  beggar  and 
watching  the  falling  of  his  countenance  when  he 
discovers  their  emptiness;  and  there  is  humor  in 
setting  a  plate  of  the  same  before  the  hotel  boarders 
who  habitually  pick  and  peel  the  crust  off  everything 
before  them — off  the  bread  and  rolls  and  corn  bread 
— the  tops  of  the  pies — the  brown  outside  froa  ell 
the  meats — but  this  is  humor  of  the  kindly  sort,  as 
it  makes  such  people  happy  to  have  something  that 
they  may  peel,  and  be  welcome,  and  leave  no  waste 
behind. 


eggs  one  at  a  time.  Drop  small  spoonfuls  of  the 
paste  on  baking  sheets  very  slightly  greased,  allow- 
ing an  inch  or  more  of  space  between  them,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  about  20  minutes.  Cut  a  slit  in 
the  side  and  fill  the  puffs  with  pastry  cre>»m.  Makes 
40  to 

S»T. 

To  the  best  bakers  who  make  them  in  large  quan- 
tities daily,  there  is  nothing  easier  than  cream  puffs, 
but  it  is  not  the  less  true  that  they  are  "mighty  un- 
certain" where  made  only  occasionally  and  baked 
in  the  uneven  heat  of  a  cooking  range,  instead  of  an 
oven. 

A  very  ordinary  workman,  1  once  knew,  traveled 
as  a  first-class  pastry  cook  from  town  to  town  on  the 
strength  of  a  knack  he  had  of  making  these  trifles  in 
greater  perfection  than  anybody  else.  It  was  his 
one  trick,  but  it  stood  him  in  good  stead  for  short 
spells. 

The  more  the  paste  is  beaten  up  against  the  side 
of  the  pan  as  the  eggs  are  added,  and  after,  the  more 
the  puffs^will  expand  in  baking. 

When  they  are  perfect  they  are  nearly  smooth  and 
look  like  small  cauliflowers,  whence,  perhaps,  comes 
one  of  their  French  names.  To  make  them  so,  the 
paste  must  be  almost  soft  enough  to  run  out  of  shape 
on  the  pans;  another  egg  may  be  required. 

It  is  safer  to  use  a  little  less  lard  or  butter  and  a 
little  more  flour  than  the  receipt,  for  a  first  trial. 

The  puffs  will  not  rise  at  all  if  the  paste  be  al- 
lowed to  become  cold  before  the  eggs  are  beaten  in- 
to it. 

The  handsomest  puffs  are  those  baked  done  with- 
out the  ove''  door  ever  being  opened  in  the  mean- 
time. 


3»«. 


Oroam  Puffs. 


Boston  cream  puffs  of  the  baker's  shops.  Eclairs 
d  la  crSme,  Profitiolles,  Petits — ckoux,  etc. 

1  pint  of  water. 

^  pound  of  lard  or  butter. 

J  pound  of  flour. 
10  eggs.     Little  salt. 

Bring  the  water  to  a  boil  with  the  lard  and  salt 
in  it.  Put  in  the  flour  all  at  once,  and  stir  the  mix- 
ture over  the  fire  about  five  minutes,  or  till  it  be- 
comes a  stiff  paste.    Then  take  it  off  and  beat  in  the 


SOS.  Com  Starch  Cream  Puffs. 

Finest.  The  name,  eclair,  is  probably  from  the 
French  word  signifying  a  gap  or  clear  place  These 
became  Sclairs  au  chocolat,  or  au  cafe,  according  to 
the  cream  used  for  filling.  Peiits-ehauz  d  la  comtesse 
are  small  puffs  dipped  in  chocolate  icing  and  the 
coating  dried  on  them  before  serving. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
10  eggs. 

Boil  half  the  milk  with  the  butter  in  it.  Mix  the 
starch  with  the  other  half.  Pour  both  together  and 
cook  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time 
— after  removing  from  the  fire  and  allowing  the  paste 
to  fall  below  boiling  heat — and  beat  thoroughly.  The 
pieces  of  paste  dropped  on  the  baking  pans  should 
not  be  larger  than  guinea  eggs.     Makes  50. 


S09. 


Transparent  Puffs. 


These  rise  in  shape  like  bells,    or  inverted  tea- 
cups. 
1  pint  of  water. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


11 


2  ounces  of  butter. 

6  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

6  whole  eggs  and  4  whites. 


300.      Ooooanut  Puff  Balls.  , 


Eclairs  au  caramel.  Excellent  for  set  tables,  for 
ball  or  concert  suppers,  and  not  too  common.  It  is 
extremely  wrong,  however,  to  thus  sugar-coat  co- 
lapsed,  dumpy,  or  burnt-up  failures  of  puflfs,  and 
try  to  pass  them  off  as  eclairs  au  caramel.  The 
French  never  do  that  way,  (we  hope.) 

Make  the  desired  number  of  cream  puffs  of 
whichever  mixture  you  have  the  best  success   with. 

They  are  not  to  be  filled  with  anything.  They 
should  be  small,  light-baked,  but  dry,  smooth  and 
hollow,  and  either  round  or  egg-shaped.  Roll  them, 
after  baking,  first  in  thick  sugar  syrup  and  then  in 
grated  cocoanut  mixed  with  granulated  sugar  on  a 
plate.  Dry  the  puffs  in  a  warm  place,  that  they  may 
not  be  sticky  when  served. 

To  make  the  syrup,  pour  half  a  cup  of  water  on  a 
pound  of  white  sugar,  and  let  it  boil  up  without 
stirring.  Chopped  almonds  can  be  used  as  well  as 
cocoanut. 


301.    Eclairs  aux  Confitures. 


Sweet  cream  puffs  variously  shaped  and  filled  with 
fruit  jelly,  conserve,  or  any  kind  of  sweetmeat. 

1  pint  of  water. 

7  ounces  of  butter. 

3  ounces  of  sugar. 
10  ounces  of  flour. 

6  or  7  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  sugar  and  butter  in  it, 
then  stir  in  the  flour  and  make  the  paste  as  directed 
for  the  preceding  varieties. 

Fancy  shapes  are  made  of  this  paste  by  using  a 
lady-finger  sack  and  tubes,  to  form  fingers,  cres- 
cents, etc.,  and  egging  and  sugaring  them  before  bak- 
ing. 


CHEESE    PUFFS     WITH    ANCHOVY 
BUTTER. 


30S.  Bamequins  a  1'  Italienne. 

^  pint  of  milk  or  water. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

4  ounces  of  cheese. 

6  eggs.     Salt. 

Make  the  paste  of  milk,  butter  and  flour,  as  for 
cream  puffs,  and  mix  in  the  cheese — previously 
grated  or  minced — by  pounding  smooth  while  hot. 
Add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time.  Place  on  the  baking 
pans  in  small  oblong  shapes,  and  bake  carefully. 
They  are  not  good  if  in  the  least  dark  colored.  Makes 
about  30.      For  filling,  mix  4  ounces  of  fresh  butter 


witfi  6  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovies,  both 
slightly  warmed,  and  then  made  cold  before  using. 


The  English  ruralists  are  great  at  making  cheese- 
cakes in  variety.  A  kind  of  tart  made  of  sweet  milk 
or  cream  curd  is  the  genuine  sort,  and  holds  about 
the  same  relative  importance  at  the  well-provided 
tables  of  the  better  class  that  pumpkin  pies  do  on 
this  side.  The  scarcity  of  English  culinary  terms, 
however,  has  made  cheesecake  a  name  expansive 
enough  to  take  in  a  number  of  French  knick-knacks, 
such  as  the  following,  which  only  come  in  turn  be- 
cause they  are  cream  curd  puffs. 

303.  

Nothing  can  be  made  of  milk  curd,  successfully, 
unless  the  curd  be  scalded  to  firmness  so  that  it  can 
be  pressed  dry;  a  point  that  our  receipts,  as  we  find 
them,  hardly  ever  mention.  Curdle  the  milk  or 
cream  with  rennet  as  if  for  cheese;  then  set  the  pan  on 
the  range  and  slowly  come  to  the  boiling  point.  Pour 
off  the  whey  and  hang  up  the  curd  in  a  napkin  to 
drip  dry,  and  then  slightly  press  it.  That  is  what 
is  meant  by  "well-prepared,  firm  curd,"  and  a  num- 
ber of  good  things,  to  be  described  at  some  other 
time,  can  be  made  of  it  without  fear  of  disappoint- 
ment. 


304.       Cheese  Curd  Puffs. 


Cheesecakes.     Petits  Talmouses  au  Parmesan. 

6  ounces  of  cream  or  milk  curd. 

^  pint  of  milk  or  water. 

2  or  3  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

4  ounces  of  grated  cheese. 

6  eggs. 

Some  pie  paste  for  the  bottoms. 

Of  these  ingredients  make  a  paste  the  same  aa  for 
cream  puffs,  the  curd  and  grated  cheese  to  be  pounded 
into  it  while  hot.  Roll  out  pie  paste,  the  thinner 
the  better;  cut  out  flats  with  a  biscuit  cutter;  place 
a  teaspoonful  of  the  paste  in  the  middle  of  each,  wet 
the  edges  and  pinch  them  up  in  shape  of  a  conti- 
nental three-cornered  hat,  inclosing  the  curd  paste 
within. 

Brush  them  over  with  egg  and  water  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  about  15  minutes.  They  expand 
in  baking  and  become  hollow.  May  be  filled  with 
creamed  cheese. 


305. 


Cream  Curd  Puffs. 


Cheesecakes.     Talmouses  d,  la  creme. 

The  same  in  form  as  the  last,  but  sweet.  Inclose 
a  spoonful  of  the  curd  paste  in  a  pastry  bottom;  egg 
over  and  dredge  with  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  cream  curd. 

^  pint  of  milk. 

1  ounce  of  sugar. 


72 


THE  A3MEERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  flour. 

5  eggs.     Salt. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  flavoring  extract. 

Pie  paste  for  the  bottoms. 

Make  a  cooked  paste  as  for  cream  pufts — the  but- 
ter and  sugar  boiled  in  the  milk — flour  stirred  in, 
then  the  curd;  the  eggs  beaten  in  one  at  a  time,  and 
flavoring  added  last. 

These  puff's  can  be  partially  filled  with  any  of  the 
creams  or  conserves,  for  making  which,  the  direc- 
tions have  already  been  givea. 


300.      Pineapple  Conserve. 

1  can  of  pineapple. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

2  eggs. 

Reduce  the  fruit  to  a  pulp  by  mashing  in  a  bright 
saucepan;  add  to  it  half  the  juice  from  the  can  and 
the  sugar  and  butter.  Boil;  add  the  eggs,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  till  thick. 

One  pound  of  grated,  fresh  pineapple  and  a  half 
cup  of  water  answers  the  same  as  the  canned.  Sim- 
mer with  the  sugar  till  cooked  and  transparent- 
ooking,  then  finish  like  the  other. 


30?. 


Cuban  Conserve. 


For  Cuban  cream  cake,  Sclairs  aux  confitures, 
bouchees,  etc. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  fresh,  grated  cocoanut. 
4  or  5  oranges. 

2  lemons.^ 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

8  yolks  of  eggs, 

Grate  the  yellow  rinds  of  all  the  fruit  and  squeeze 
the  juice  into  the  sugar,  carefully  excluding  the  bit- 
ter seeds.  Boil  the  syrup  thus  made;  add  the  but- 
ter and  cocoanut;  boil  again,  then  beat  in  the  yolks. 
Cook  five  minutes  more. 

Desiccated  cocoanut  does  as  well;  steep  it  first  in 
•nilk  enough  to  barely  moisten  it. 

308.  

The  Best  Mince  Pies  in  the  "World. 


It  is  not  so  difficult  to  make  good  mince-meat  as 
to  make  the  pies  healthful  and  enjoyable  after  it  is 
made.  Mince  pies,  too  frequently,  in  hotels  where 
the  desire  is  to  make  them  rich,  are  made  so  that 


they  are  little  better  than  dabs  of  sweetened  grease. 
The  finest  pufF-paste  is  not  suitable  for  them,  but  a 
medium  quality  should  be  made.  The  edges  will  not 
rise  on  mince  pies  much  in  any  case,  and  rich  puff"- 
paste  is  lost  upon  them.  They  have  the  poorest  ap- 
pearance of  any  pies  if  baked  plain,  but  can  be 
made  most  inviting  by  being  glazed. 

But  don't  paint  them  with  yellow  smears  of  egg- 
yolk.  Mix  the  yolk  of  an  egg  thoroughly  with 
twice  as  much  water;  brush  the  tops  of  the  pies  over 
with  it  before  baking;  sift  a  very  thin  coating  of 
granulated  sugar  all  over,  and  then  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  till  the  bottoms  are  baked  dry  and  light 
brown,  and  the  tops  are  covered  with  a  crisp,  glazed 
crust.  Mince  pies  should  have  both  bottom  and  top 
crusts  rolled  quite  thin;  otherwise  the  superfluous 
pastry  edges  are  invariably  thrown  away. 


309.  Mince-Meat  a  la  Royale. 


Strictly  first-class  in  all  its  appointments. 

2  pounds  of  lean  roast  or  boiled  beef. 

2  pounds  of  suet. 

2  pounds  of  apples. 

2  pounds  of  currants. 

2  pounds  of  seedless  raisins. 

2  pounds  of  brown  sugar 

1  pound  of  candied  citron, 

2  ounces  of  ground  spices — mace,  nutmeg,  cinna- 
mon and  cloves. 

1  or  2  cans  of  Bartlett  pears,  with  the  juice. 

2  pounds  of  preserved  ginger 

12  oranges— juice  and  grated  rind. 

6  lemons — juice  and  grated  rind. 

1  pint  of  rum. 

1  pint  of  brandy. 

1  quart  of  port  wine. 

Chop  all  the  ingredients  small.  Don't  grind  them 
in  a  machine.  Then  mix  everything  together — the 
dry  articles  first,  and  liquids  poured  over  them.  Put 
the  mince-meat  in  jars,  cover  close,  and  let  stand  a 
week  or  two  before  using. 

When  preserved  ginger  cannot  be  had,  boil  half  a 
pound  of  common  race  ginger  in  syrup  made  with  2 
lbs.  of  sugar  in  2  quarts  of  water.  When  boiled 
down  to  one  quart,  put  the  syrup  in  the  mince,  and 
further  extract  the  ginger  flavor  by  pouring  the 
port  wine  upon  it  and  making  warm.  This  ginger 
is  not  to  be  used  in  the  mincc-meat,  only  its  ex- 
tracted flavor. 

When  the  oranges  furnished  are  ripe  and  thin- 
skinned  it  is  better  to  chop  half  of  them  after 
squeezing,  and  add  them  to  the  mince,  instead  of 
only  gratirg.  Grate  the  rest  and  use  the  juice  of 
all  after  excluding  the  seeds. 


310. 

Lemon  Mince  Meat  "Without  Meat. 


Where  brandy  is  disapproved    of,    use    double 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


78 


quantity  of  strictly  medicinal  old  port  wine  instead. 
The  spirit  evaporates  in  baking. 

4  lemons. 

2  pounds  of  white  sugar. 

2  pounds  of  currants. 

1  pound  of  seedless  raisins. 

2  pounds  of  suet, 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

^  pint  of  brandy  and  port- wine  mixed. 

Use  lemons  that  are  ripe  thin-skinned,  not  harsh 
and  bitter.  Boil  them  in  a  quart  of  water  till  the  wa- 
ter is  half  boiled  away.  Then  squeeze  the  juice  into 
the  sugar,  throw  away  the  seeds,  and  mince  the 
lemon  rinds  small. 

Cut  or  chop  the  raisins,  mince  the  suet  fine  and 
mix  all  the  ingredients  together.  Keep  in  a  covered 
jar. 

The  -srater  the  lemons  were  boiled  in  should  be 
added  to  the  mince.  This  quantity  makes  about  20 
pies,  according  to  size. 

311.  Bnglish  Standard  Mince-Meat. 


2  pounds  of  lean  roast  or  boiled  beef. 

2  pounds  of  suet. 

2  pounds  of  apples, 

2  pounds  of  currants. 

2  pounds  of  seedless  raisins. 

2  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 

1  pound  of  candied  citron. 

J  pound  of  orange  or  lemon  rinds,  previously  boiled 
tender. 

2  ounces  of  ground  spices — mace,  nutmeg,  cloves 
and  cinnamon. 

3  quarts  of  sweet  cider. 

1  quart  of  common  brandy. 

Chop  the  meat  and  suet  fine,  and  season  them 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  the  citron  in 
small  bits,  mince  the  lemon  rinds,  and  chop  or  cut 
the  raisins.  Mix  all  together  and  let  stand  two 
weeks  before  using.  If  too  dry,  wine,  cider  or 
brandy,  or  all  mixed,  should  be  added  when  the  pies 
are  filled.  Candied  orange  or  lemon  peel,  of  course, 
can  be  used  instead  of  the  stewed  peel,  but  costs 
more  and  gives  less  flavor.  This  is  enough  for  50  or 
60  pies,  according  to  size. 

With  a  standard  like  the  foregoing  receipt  to  start 
from,  anyone  can  vary  the  qualityand  cost  of  mince 
meat,  according  to  circumstances.  Apples  in  excess 
make  it  poor  and  insipid.  Raisins,  currants  and 
orange  peel,  and  wine  or  sweet  cider,  make  it  rich. 
The  meat  is  only  a  foundation.  Cheap  mince-meat 
is  made  by  dosing  with  ground  spices,  and  leaving 
out  the  more  expensive  materials. 

318.  Good  Common  Mince-Meat. 


2  pounds  of  minced  beef  or  tongue. 

3  pounds  of  suet. 

4  pouunds  of  currants. 


3  pounds  of  apples. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  pound  of  brown  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

1  pound  of  candied  citron,  or  the  same  of  orange 
and  lemon  rinds  boiled  tender. 

1  pint  of  common  brandy. 

3  quarts  of  cider,  or  enough  to  make  it  juicy. 

Put  the  raisins  in  whole.  Mince  all  the  rest,  sea- 
soning the  meat  and  suet  a  little  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Should  be  kept  3  or  4  weeks  before  using. 
Makes  about  40  or  50  pies. 

Nothing  is  saved  by  buying  trashy  currants.  They 
have  to  be  well  washed  and  picked  over  free  from 
stones,  and  the  more  dirt  there  is  the  more  will  wash 
away.  Some  currants  are  like  small  raisins,  nice 
and  clean  and  large.     There  is  no  waste  in  them. 

To  Clean  Currants. — Put  them  into  a  colander 
with  holes  not  too  large;  set  that  down  in  a  pan  half 
full  of  warm  water  and  stir  the  currants  about  vigor- 
ously. The  dirt  will  go  through  the  holes.  Pour 
the  water  away  two  or  three  times.  This  is  the 
quickest  plan  and  most  thorough.  Spread  the  cur- 
rants out  in  a  baking  pan;    pick  them  over  and  let 


them  dry  for  use. 


314. 


To  Clean  Raisins. — When  sultana  seedless  are 
furnished,  or  even  the  larger  kind  of  seedless  rais- 
ins, put  them  in  a  colander  with  a  handful  of  flour 
mixed  in,  and  rub  off  the  fine  stems,  which  then  by 
sifting  about  will  fall  through  the  holes.  When  the 
greater  part  have  been  so  got  rid  of,  the  raisins  must 
be  picked  over  separately,  especially  to  remove  the 
gravel  stones  that  may  chance  to  be  among  them. 
Layer  raisins  have  to  be  seeded  to  be  good  in  any- 
thing. A  most  tedious  operation  and  requiring  such 
help  as  can  be  had. 


Some  thirty  years  ago  the  English  Vegetarians 
made  a  good  deal  of  noise  in  the  world.  Their  head- 
quarters was  in  the  Channel  Islands,  where  their 
representative  paper  was  published.  It  was  called 
the  Vegetarian  Banner  and  Manx  Healthtan  Journal. 
Its  motto  was  "Fruits  and  Farinacea,  the  Proper 
Food  of  Man."  Its  leading  idea  was,  that  absti- 
nence from  meat  diet  would  make  the  worli  better. 
Those  who  supported  it  set  themselves  to  work  earn- 
estly to  get  up  a  new  system  of  cookery  wherein 
meat  should  have  no  place,  and  a  great  many  curi- 
osities in  the  way  of  billsof-fare  of  dinners  without 
meat  were  published  in  it  in  consequence.  The  an- 
nexed is  one  of  their  receipts.     The  cider  excepted. 


VEGETARIAN   MINOB  PIE. 


315. 


Jersey  Pie. 


J  pound  of  currants. 

\  pound  of  seedless  raisins. 

1  pound  of  brown  sugar  and  molasses  mixed. 


74 


THE  AllCEBIOAN  PASTR7  COOK. 


A  little  salt  and  pepper. 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices — cinnamon,  mace, 
cloves  and  alspice. 

I  pound  of  crushed  crackers  or  dry  bread  crumbs. 

1  pint  of  cold  water. 

J  pint  of  vinegar  or  hard  cider. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  extract, 
f  pound  of  butter,  melted. 

4  beaten  eggs. 

Mix  all  the  dry  articles  in  a  bowl,  then  add  the 
fluids  to  the  eggs,  and  pour  over  and  mix  in  the 
melted  butter  by  hard  stirring.  The  proportion  of 
molasses  to  sugar  may  be  according  to  kind.  All 
syrup  will  do.  Make  like  other  mince  pies.  A 
half  pint  of  brandy  added  makes  the  resem- 
blance very  close.  Makes  about  10  pies,  more  or 
less,  according  to  size. 


310.  Cheapest  Good  Mince  Meat. 

Suitable  for  charitable  institutions,  etc.,  and  not 
easily  distinguishable  from  the  costlier  mixtures.  It 
will  not  intoxicate. 

1 J  pounds  of  bi'ead. 

1  pound  of  boiled  beef  or  ox  heart. 

2  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 
1  quart  of  good  molasses. 

1  pound  of  common  dried  apples. 

IJ  pounds  of  suet. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

4  ounces  of  ground  cinnamon  and  other  spices 
mixed. 

1  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

1  pint  of  vinegar. 

Peel  of  2  or  3  oranges. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Pour  two  quarts  of  cold  water  over  the  bread; 
steep  and  mash.  Boil  the  apples  in  two  quarts  of 
water,  then  chop  them  and  add  the  j  nice  to  the  rest 
of  the  ingredients,  all  minced  and  mixed  as  usual. 
The  orange  peel  should  be  boiled  a  little  while  and 
then  minced  fine.  Any  stewed  fruit  liquor  or  cider 
can  be  added  with  advantage.  Makes  2  gallons — 
30  to  50  pies. 

317.    Finger  Biscuits. 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar — 2  cup»- 

8  eggs. 

6  tablespoonfuls  of  water. 

12  ounces  of  flour — 2  heaping  cups. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  whites  into  a  good  sized 
bowl,  the  yolks  into  the  mixing  pan.  Put  the  su 
gar  to  the  yolks  and  stir  up  then  add  the  water  and 
they  can  be  beaten  to  a  thick  foam.  It  may  take 
10  minutes.  Have  the  flour  ready.  Whip  the 
whites  with  the  wire  egg-whisk  till  they  are  firm 
enough  to  bear  up  an  egg  Mix  the  flour  in  the 
yolks  and  stir  in  the  whipped   whites  last.  , 


Lay  the  mixture  in  small  finger-lengths  with  a 
lady -finger  tube  and  sack  or  a  paper  cornet,  on  a 
sheet  of  blank  paper.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over 
them  plentifully,  catch  up  two  corners  of  the  sheet 
and  shake  off  the  surplus.  Lay  the  sheet  on  a  bak- 
ing pan. 

Bake  about  6  minutes.  Take  off  by  wetting  the 
paper  under  side  and  stick  the  cakes  together  while 
they  are  still  moist. 

318.    White  Jelly  Drops. 

The  same  mixture  as  number  3.  Make  drop 
cakes  same  as  lady  fingers,  well  glazed  by  letting 
the  siftings  of  powdered  sugar  lie  upon  them  a  few 
minutes  before  baking. 

When  done  sandwich  a  slice  of  good  wine  jelly 
between  two,  and  keep  cold  until  time  of  serving. 

319.    Star  Kisses. 

1  pound  of  fine  granulated  sugar. 

8  whites  of  eggs 

Flavoring  extract. 

Whip  the  whites  with  a  bunch  of  wire  in  a  cold 
place  until  they  are  firm  enough  to  bear  up  an  egg, 
add  the  sugar  and  flavor  and  beat  a  few  seconds 
longer.  Put  the  meringue  paste  thus  made  into  a 
sack  and  star-pointed  tube  or  else  into  a  stiff  paper 
cornet  having  the  point  cut  like  saw  teeth  and  press 
out  portions  size  of  walnuts  on  to  pans  slightly 
greased  and  then  wiped  clean.  Bake  in  a  very 
slack  oven  about  10  minutes  or  till  the  kisses  are  of 
a  light  fawn  color  and  swelled  partially  hollow. 
They  slip  off  easily  when  cold 


320.    Frozen  Fig  Pudding 

Figs  cut  small  and  mixed  in  caramel  ice  cream 
and  frozen  in  brick  molds  in  a  most  excellent  com- 
bination— a  modified  tutti  frutti. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

14  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  pound  of  figs. 

The  caramel  gives  the  flavor,  but  half  a  cupful  of 
curacoa  improves  it. 

Take  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  sugar  to  make 
caramel,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  or  frying-pan  over 
t,he  fire  without  any  water,  and  let  it  melt  and  be- 
come a  medium  molasses  color,  not  burnt,  however, 
then  pour  in  half  a  cupful  of  water,  and  let  boil 
and  dissolve. 

Make  rich  boiled  custard  of  the  milk,  sugar  and 
yolks,  pour  the  caramel  into  it,  strain  into  the 
freezer,  and  freeze  as  usual.  Cut  the  figs  small  as 
raisins  and  mix  them  in-  Put  the  frozen  pudding 
into  Neapolitan  molds,  and  bed  them  in  ice  and 
salt  for  two  hours. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


76 


321.    Water  Sponge  Oake 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar — 2  cups 

8  eggs. 

J  pint  of  water— a  large  cup. 

18  ounces  flour — 4  rounded  cups. 

1  heaping  teaspoonful  baling  powder. 

Separate  the  eggs,  the  whites  into  a  good-sized 
bowl,  the  yolks  into  the  mixing  pan. 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  with  the  yolks  and  beat 
up  until  they  are  light  and  thick. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour. 

Whip  the  whites  to  a  very  firm  froth,  and  when 
they  are  ready  stir  the  flour  into  the  yolk  mixture 
and  mix  in  the  whipped  whites  last.  Bake  either 
in  small  sponge  cake  molds— the  little  tin  oblong- 
shaped  pans  joined  a  dozen  together — or  else 
spread  in  a  large  pan,  and  cut  the  cake  in  squares 
when  it  is  cold. 


322.    Strawberry  Meringue. 

This  is  sold  extensively   at  the  fine  bakeries  un- 
der the  name,  generally,  of  strawberry  shortcake. 
For  the  cake  take  the  butter  sponge  cake,  or 
8  ounces  granulated  sugar — 1  cup. 
5  eggs. 

4  ounces  butter,  melted — J  cup, 
^  cup  of  milk. 
12  ounces  of  flour — 3  cups. 
1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 
Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  a  minute  or  two, 
add  the  melted  butter,  the  milk,  the  powder  and  the 
flour.     Bake  on  jelly-cake  pans  as  thin  as  it  can  be 
spread,  or,  if  preferred, on  a  large  shallow  baking 
pan.     The  cake  is  liable  to  rise  in  the  middle  and 
must  be  spread  on  the  pan  accordingly. 

When  done  cover  the  top  of  the  cake  with  raw 
stiawbcrries  and  spread  a  thick  covering  of  mer 
ingue  on  top  of  them.  Set  the  cake  in  the  oven  one 
minute  to  bake  a  very  light  color  on  top,  but  the 
meringue  paste  must  not  be  cooked  through. 

The  meringue  paste  or  frosting  is  made  by  beat, 
ing  5  whites  of  eggs  to  a  firm  froth  and  then  mixing 
in  4  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
Cut  in  squares  to  serve. 


323.    Family  Fruit  Oake 

3  cupfuls  of  raisins — 1  pound. 

4  of  currants — 1  pound. 
1  of  sugar — 6  ounces, 

1  of  butter — 6  ounces. 

1  molasses — 12  ounces 

2  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  sour  milk. 
1  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
4  large  cupfuls  of  flour — 18  ounces. 
Having  prepared  the  fruit,  make  the  butter  soft 
mix  it  and  the  sugar,  molasses,  eggs  and  sour  milk 


together  in  a  pan,  and  beat  well;  mix  the  soda  in 
the  flour,  put  that  in  and  beat  again.  Dust  the 
fruit  with  flou.,  stir  in,  bake  in  a  mold  or  shallow 
pan. 

Another  cake  of  the  same  sort  can  be  made    by 
mixing  fruit  in  the  sponge  ginger-bread.   No.    220. 

324.    Blackberry  Meringue. 

Make    the    same    as    strawberry    meringue    at 
No.  322. 


325.    Peach  Meringue. 

Pare  ripe  peaches  (not  cooked),  and  out  them  to 
size  of  strawberries  and  make  the  same  as  straw- 
berry meringue  at  No.  322. 


326.    Peach  Shortcake. 

The  same  thing  as  strawberry  shortcake,  using 
chopped  ripe  peaches  instead.  It  is  a  cake  of  short 
paste,  not  sweet,  as  large  as  a  plate  and  thick  as  a 
biscuit,  split  in  two  after  baking,  peaches  and  sugar 
spread  on  the  lower  half,  the  other  placed  on  top 
with  the  split  side  upward  and  more  peaches 
spread  upon  that.  It  is  eaten  with  cream.  The 
ingredients  required  are: 

1  cupful  of  lard  or  butter — 8  ounces. 

3  cupfuls  of  flour — 12  ounces. 

^  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  cup  of  ice  water. 

1  quart  of  cut  peaches. 

1  cupful  of  sugar. 
Pare  the  peaches,  cut  them  small  and  shake  up 
with  the  sugar  before  making  the  paste, and  set  them 
in  a  cool  place.  Bub  the  butter  into  the  flour  thor- 
oughly with  the  hands.  Salt  is  needed  only  where 
lard  is  used.  Make  a  hollow  in  the  middle,  pour  in 
the  wa'er,  mix  up  soft,  roll  out  on  the  table  in  flour 
reserved  for  the  purpose.  It  makes  the  cake  flaky 
and  part  in  layers  to  roll  it  and  fold  it  a  few  times 
like  pie  paste. 

Then  make  it  up  round,1et  stand  five  minutes,roll 
out  thick  as  biscuit  and  bake  on  a  jelly-oake  pan. 
Finish  with  fruit  as  above  stated. 


327.    Apple  Shortcake. 

Use  mellow  apples  of  fine  flavor  and  make  the  same 
as  peach  shortcake,  the  apples  not  to  be  cooked,  but 
mixed  with  sugar  and  chopped  and  used  immediately* 

Peach  Cobbler. 

A  peach  pie  made  in  a  baking  pan  to  be  cut  out 
in  squares.  Make  common  pie  paste,  roll  out  the 
larger  half  of  it  to  a  thin  sheet  and  take  up  oflf  the 
table  by  rolling  it  up  on  the  rolling  pin  and  so  unrol^ 
it  on  the  pan.  Put  in  pared  and  cut  peaches  an 
inch  deep,  dredge  a  little  sugar  over  them,  oorer 
with  the  top  crust  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 


70 


THE   AMERICAN   FASTBT   COOK. 


Border  Moulds — For  borders  of  jelly   or  blanc- mange,  the 

center  filled  with  whipped  cream  or  fruit  compotes— also  for  j^q  Cream  Mould. See  No.  75 

salads,  shrimps  in  aspic  and  other  ornamental  dishes. 


Melon  Mould— For  puddings, 
salads,  pressed  meats,  lces» 
etc.    See  No.  127. 


Neapolitan  or  Brick  Mould. 
See  No.  125. 


Boxes  of  Cutters.— Tall  column  box  for  cutting  scollops  of  wi,4r.    n-h..r>r.       t?^^   f.^fi,i«£f 

meat,  (tongue,  chicken,  etc.,)  truffles  and  vegetables-others  ^^'P    Churn. -For   frothing 
for  cakes  and  pastry.                                        ^  cream  and  custards- the  end 

^       ■^  18  perforated.     See  No.  168. 


Silver  Plated  Shells. 

loped  oysters. 


-For  escal- 


Stamped  Tin  Shells. 


The  Proper  Sort  of  Pan  for  beating  eggs  and  making 
cake  in— also,  Candy  Kettle — are  made  both  of  copper 
and  heavy  tin,  all  sizes. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


77 


THE  HOTEL  BOOK  OF   PUDDINGS. 


Considering  with  what  reluctance  the  public  are 
said  to  read  prefaces,  it  seems  quite  fortunate  that 
puddings  are  such  familiar  things  and  there  is  nex 
to  nothing  to  be  said  about  them;  and,  besides,  thej 
constitute  such  a  remarkably  numerous  family — race 
Burns  called  it — that  if  only  they  all  have  to  speak 
for  themselves  there  will  be  quite  a  time.  And  that 
reflection  alone  must  give  us  pause,  for  among  them 
are  some  such  hoary  patriarchs,  venerable  relics  of 
antiquity,  as  would  hardly  brook  any  levity  from  us 
the  creatures  of  yesterday.  Suppose  one  should  say 
to  some  of  these  old  respectabilities,  "You  old  rel- 
ics, you  are  heavy,  you  are  indigestible;  you  are  a 
black,  unwholesome  lump;  you  should  be  made  over, 
shaken  up,  renovated  like  an  old  hotel;  would  they 
not  rise  up  and  annihiliate  us  with, 

'Pass,  little  mortal,  pass, 
Thy  days  are  but  as  grass.* 

But  we  were 

•Formed  ages  since,  perhaps  before  the  flood, 
We  nurtured  the  stout  dryads  of  the  wood.'  " 

Every  one  must  have  observed  how  natural  it 
seems  for  artists  to  draw  pudiings  with  faces,  es- 
pecially Christmas  plum  puddings — depend  upon  it, 
there  is  something  in  it.  If  it  would  be  such  a 
heinous  piece  of  presumption  to  attempt  to  change 
the  nature  of  the  old  plum  pudding,  is  it  not  almost 
as  bad  to  change  its  form  ?  There  is  not  much  poe- 
try about  puddings,but  what  little  mite  there  is  belongs 
to  the  old  time  round  pudding  boiled  in  a  bag.  The 
tall  fellow  in  fine  fluted  moulds  is  an  upstart.  A 
writer  in  the  Bazar — it  may  be  three  years  since — 
traced  back  the  plum  pudding  to  its  infancy,  when 
it  was  only  porridge — a  sort  of  porridge  with  plums 
in  it;  but  it  grew  out  of  that,  and  although  occa- 
sionally through  the  accident  of  coming  untied  in  the 
kettle  it  relapses  temporarily  into  its  early  state,  it  is 
respectable  and  to  memory  dear  only  as  a  pudding 
round  and  solid.  In  the  sanctum  where  these  lines  are 
written — one  that  is  next  neighbor  to  all  out  of 
doors,  looking  off  "where  wilds  immeasureably 
spread  seem  lengthening  as  you  go" — there  is  upon 
the  wall  a  picture  from  Harper's  Weekly  of  a  Christ- 
mas at  sea — "the  pride  of  the  ship's  cook."  He  is 
carrying  the  plum  pudding  himself  to  the  captain's 
cabin;  none  of  the  boys  may  touch  that.  The  pict- 
ure is  hung  up  a  little  askew  in  order  to  straighten 
up  the  cook.  It  makes  but  little  difference  which 
way  one  hangs  a  picture  of  a  vessel  on  a  rolling  sea, 
but  the  cook  looks  a  little  reeling,  and  that  pudding 
must  be  kept  right  side  up  at  all  hazards.  Let  no 
one  entertain  the  least  question  about  that  pudding, 
it  is  the  traditional  sort,  dark  and  solid  and  round, 
and  the  holly  is  sticking  in  the  top;  the  glossy, 
•harp-spiked,    red-berried  English  holly;    brought 


from  shore  when  the  vessel  started  and  carefully 
kept  for  the  day.  Who  could  dare  lay  innovating 
hands  upon  the  composition  of  that  ancient  pud- 
ding ?     Here  it  is. 

338. 

English  Boiled  Plum  Puddingf. 

3  pounds  of  flour. 
2  pounds  of  chopped  suet. 
2  pounds  of  seedless  raisins. 
IJ  pounds  of  currants. 

1  pound  of  citron. 

2  ounces  of  mixed  ground  spices — cinnamon,  mace, 
nutmeg  and  cloves. 

Mix  all  the  above  dry  articles  together  in  a  pan. 

Then  mix  the  following  fluids  : 

1^  pints  of  milk. 

\  cup  of  black  molasses,  large  measure. 

8  eggs. 

1  pound  of  common  yellow  sugar. 

^  pint  of  brandy. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Then  stir  both  mixtures  together.  This  should 
be  prepared  over  night,  and  next  morning  tied  up  in 
four  or  five  pudding  cloths  and  boiled  without  inter- 
mission six  hours. 

33» 

Some  persons  have   hardly  a  speck  of  reverence 

for  the  antique,  and  had  as  lief  add  something  to  the 
time-honored  English  plum  pudding  as  not,  if  they 
find  it  makes  it  lighter,  more  enjoyable  and  more 
digestible.  Such  people  can  add  to  the  preceding 
receipts  two  pounds  or  less  of  fine  white  bread 
crumbs,  and  to  the  fluid  part  a  half  pint  more  milk. 
That  is  all,  but  it  makes  a  difference. 

The  quantity  of  pudding  prescribed  is  enough  for 
100  to  150  persons — that  is  to  say,  of  persons  having 
hotel  dinners  to  eat  besides. 


330. 

The  addition  of  molasses   to  the  preceding,  and 

other  puddings  to  come,  is  for  the  purpose  of  giving 
with  the  spices  a  dark  color,  but  when  refined 
syrups  only  can  be  had  burnt  sugar  must  be  added 
for  coloring.  Not  only  cooks  but  many  others  like- 
wise ought  to  feel  grateful  to  Count  Albufage  Cara- 
mel, of  Nismes,  who  invented  caramel.  It  is  used 
forgiving  a  brown  color  to  an  immense  number  of 
eatable  and  drinkable  articles,  and  is  not  only  harm- 
less, but  gives  an  agreeable  flavor  in  some  cases,  as 
in  creams.  Put  some  sugar  in  a  frying  pan  over  the 
fire,  let  it  burn  darker  than  browned  coffee,  then  fill 
up  the  pan  with  water,  boil  and  strain. 


But  there  is  another  plum  pudding,  called  in 
French  bills-of  f&re  poudinff  d  V  Allemande,  which  all 
who  practice  it  will  prefer  to  make  nine  times  to  the 
preceding  kind  once.  It  contains  no  flour,  and  can 
be  boiled  in  half  the  time  of  Christmas  pudding. 


78 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  OOOK. 


Boiled  Plum  Pudding. 


831.     GERMAN  PLUM  PUDDING. 

2  pounds  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

1  pound  of  white  sugar. 

1  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

7  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground  spices— -cinnamon, 
nutmeg  and  mace. 

^  cup  of  brandy. 

Salt,     Pijich  of  soda. 

Mix  the  dry  articles  together — the  bread  crumbs 
being  grated  or  chopped  quite  fine — then  wet  with  the 
milk,  eggs  and  brandy,  the  salt  and  soda  dissolved 
in  them;  tie  in  four  pudding  cloths  and  boil  four 
hours. 


Either  of  the  plum  puddings  can  be  boiled  or 
steamed  in  fancy  moulds,  to  be  sent  to  table 
whole. 

In  deference  to  the  temperance  principles  of  some 
of  their  guests,  the  best  hotels  make  it  a  rule  to  pre- 
pare two  sauces  for  plum  pudding,  one  being  with- 
out spirit,  the  other  the  customary  brandy  sauce,  set 
on  fire  just  as  the  dish  is  sent  in,  or  else  the  equally 
approved  sauce  sahayon. 

Another  one  of  those  revered  patriarchs  whom  it 
were  almost  sacrilege  to  touch  is  Burn's,  with  "hon- 
est sonsie  face,"  the  haggis.  In  the  English  plum 
pudding,  however,  there  is  a  grim,  unmistakable 
identity  that  is  very  satisfying  as  compared  with  the 
shadowy  indefiniteness  of  the  Scottish  chief.  It  is  a 
pity  that  one  of  the  last  minstrels,  if  only  one  of 
humble  rank,  did  not  fix  unchangeably  in  verse  the 
component  parts  of  the  national  haggis,  as  some  one 
has  done  the  "Eve's  pudding,"  and  Sydney  Smith 
did  for  his  salad,  and  another  did  for  mulled  wine. 
We  have  a  compound  called  haggis,  without  the  pre- 
ceding article,  composed  of  meat,  chopped  ancho- 
vies, eggs,  bread,  sour  wine,  pepper  and  salt.  But 
that  does  not  seem  to  correspond  with  the  remarks 
of  an  editor  of  Burns,  who  says  the  haggis  was  to 
Scotland  what  the  plum  pudding  is  to  England, 
and  it  was  the  pride  of  her  people  that  all  the  in- 
gredients and  even  the  bag  it  was  boiled  in  were  of 
native  production. 

It  was  either  the  Edinburgh  Magazine  or  Cham- 
ber's Miscellany  that  published  the  following  receipt, 
used  on  anniversary  occasions  in  the  best  Edinburgh 
hotels  and  said  to  have  been  contributed  by  a  Fife- 
shire  landlady,  who  observed,  however,  that  the  rich 
made  the  haggis  as  good  as  they  liked  but  the  poor 
as  good  as  they  had  means.  We  will  not  be  too  pre- 
Bumptious,  but  call  this  a  haggis.      The  haggis  may 


yet  exist,  "great  chieftain  of  the  pudding  race," 
but  in  his  makeup  he  will  be  found  like  a  highland 
costume,  not  successfully  transplantable. 


•    333.        A  Scotch  Haggis. 

A  kind  of  mince  pudding,  of  the  boiled  plum 
pudding  order,  made  with  a  large  proportion  of 
meat. 

A  calf  s  heart  and  tongue — 2^  pounds. 

1  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  bread  soaked  in 

1  pint  of  milk. 

1  pound  of  chopped  apples,  or  raisins. 

1  pound  of  white  meat  of  chicken. 

6  eggs.     Salt  to  season. 

^  pint  of  home-made  currant  wine. 

1  tablespoonful  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

Cook  the  heart  and  tongue  half-done,  then  mince 
quite  fine.  Cut  the  breast  of  chicken  in  thin  strips. 
Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  the  dry  arti- 
cles first.  Tie  up  in  two  pudding  cloths  and  boil  4 
hours. 

Butter,  sugar,  and  half  cup  of  vinegar,  all  made 
hot  and  beaten  together,  for  sauce. 

The  great  majority  of  all  the  best  puddings  made 
are  of  bread,  either  wholly  or  in  part.  The  next  is 
a  good  every  day  sort. 


333.    Baked  Bread  Pudding. 


2  pounds  of  white  bread  slices. 

2  quarts  of  milk,  or  milk  and  water. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

4  eggs. 

Nutmeg. 

The  bread  should  be  quite  free  from  any  dark 
crust.  Spread  the  butter  on  the  slices  and  then  cut 
them  in  dice  shapes.  Mix  milk,  sugar  and  eggs  to- 
gether and  pour  over  the  squares  of  bread  in  the 
baking  pans.  Bake  till  set  in  the  middle.  Any 
pudding  sace  will  suit. 

"Hotel  puddings,"  said  a  gentleman  of  good 
judgment  and  extensive  experience  of  hotel  and  club 
life,  for  whom  the  writer  was  to  prepare  a  litt'e 
complimentary  dinner,  "hotel  puddings  I  never  eat 
nor  do  I  care  to  offer  them  to  friends.  They  are  al- 
ways too  sweet — nothing  but  sweet — cloying — too 
sweet  and  rich  at  first,  then  further  spoiled  by  a 
sauce  all  sugar.  How  can  hotel  cooks  be  so  dull  as 
not  to  see  that  they  spoil  their  own  work  ?  Now  I 
had  a  woman  cook  in  New  York  whose  efforts  in  that 
line  were  a  perfect  contrast  to  what  I  had  found  at 
hotel  tables  If  you  know  of  any  pudding  that  is  not 
an  hotel  pudding,  you  may  add  it  to  the  list." 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


79 


There  are  no  puddings  that  are  not  hotel  pud- 
dings. As  in  the  case  of  English  p'um  puddings  we 
follow  old  patterns  too  much,  and  overleap  the  mark 
trying  to  make  the  rich  enough  richer. 


334.    Baked  Bread  Custard. 


MADEIRA  WINE  SAUCE. 


2  pressed  in  quarts  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

2  quarts  of  milk. 

4  ounces  of  butter  melted. 

4  ounces  of  white  sugar. 

1  lemon. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

Crumble  the  bread  fine,  either  by  grating  or  chop 
ping.  Grate  the  rind  of  the  lemon  into  it  and 
squeeze  the  juice  into  the  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
eggs  and  add  them  and  the  sugar  to  the  milk,  then 
the  melted  butter,  and  pour  over  the  bread  crumbs. 
Stir  up  well,  turn  it  into  two  buttered  milk  pans  and 
bake  about  half  an  hour.  Buttering  the  pans  allows 
of  the  brown  outside  being  taken  out  clean  instead  of 
sticking  to  the  pans  and  going  to  waste.  In  this 
cheap,  simple  and  excellent  pudding,  as  in  many 
others,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  would  do  no  good;  the 
pudding  is  richer  without  them.  They  can  be  used 
for  other  purposes. 

335.  

The  reader  is  advised  to  note  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt for  bread  custard,  as  several  acceptable  varie- 
ties are  made  by  certain  additions,  as 

BAKED  CITRON  PUDDING,  CREAM  SAUCE. 
RAISIN  PUDDING,  PT.  WINE  SAUc  E. 
CURRANT  PUDDING,  LEMON  SAUCE. 

Made  by  adding  one  pound  of  either  of  those  or 
other  suitable  fruit  to  the  preparation.  The  fruit 
must  be  strewn  over  the  top  after  the  puddings  are 
in  the  pans;  they  sink  to  the  bottom  if  stirred  in. 
Pass  a  spoon  over  to  press  the  fruit  slightly  under, 
otherwise  it  comes  out  in  black  blisters.  There  is 
as  much  in  careful  baking  as  skillful  making. 


Another  use  of  the  same  mixture  is  for 

336.  Bread  Puddingf  Souffle. 

Or  Bread  Soufle.  For  this  make  the  bread  custard, 
but  instead  of  baking  stir  ^the  mixture  in  a  sauce- 
pan over  the  fire  till  it  thickens  and  becomes  like 
paste.  Take  it  ofi",  and  when  cool  enough  not  to 
cook  them  add  6  or  8  beaten  yolks.  Then  beat  all 
the  whites  that  have  been  left  over  to  stiflF froth,  and 
stir  them  into  the  mixture.  When  this  is  baked  it 
rises  high  above  the  top  of  the  pan  or  mould. 

337.  Puddingrs  Souffles. 


It  simplifies  the  making  of  puff  puddings  to  re- 
member that  nearly  all  sorts  of  puddings  that  are 
made  with  eggs,  and  many  of  the  pie  mixtures,  such 


as  cream  pies  and  cheesecakes  and  lemon  and  pump, 
kin  and  corn  starch  custards,  can  be  changed  into 
souffles  by  a  very  simple  process  which  is  the  same 
with  all  kinds  in  the  main,  only  slight  differences 
having  to  be  made  according  to  the  various  mixtures 
used.  Pudding  souses  are  of  but  little  value  for 
ordinary  hotel  dinners  which  run  on  for  hours,  be- 
cause they  must  be  sent  to  table  the  minute  they  are 
done,  while  still  puffed  up,  otherwise,  when  they 
have  fallen,  they  are  not  so  good  as  common  pud- 
dings. But  for  dinners  on  the  European  plan,  for 
parties,  for  dinners  in  courses  and  for  individual 
service — anywhere  that  there  can  be  a  set  time  for 
serving  the  pudding  these  light  trifles  are  much  es- 
teemed. 

What  is  required  to  be  done  is  to  take  the  mix- 
ture  already  prepared  for  a  baked  pudding  or  cream 
pie  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  assumes  a  pasty 
consistency,  then  add  to  it  some  beaten  yolks  of 
eggs  raw;  after  that  the  whites  whipped  firm  and 
perhaps  a  little  brandy.  Then  bake  the  finished 
mixture  either  in  large  moulds  or  pudding  shapes, 
if  for  a  party  dining  together,  with  a  band  of  but- 
tered paper  pinned  round  to  make  the  mould  higher 
— to  be  removed  before  serving — or,  in  small  cups, 
silver  scallops  or  shells,  to  be  served  in  individual 
style,  or  else  in  little  paper  cases  made  for  the  pur- 
pose. These  little  cases  can  be  bought  cheap,  ready- 
made  in  the  cities.  They  need  to  be  buttered  and 
baked  slightly  before  using,  to  harden  them.  Cus- 
tard cups  so  used  can  be  set  in  a  pan  of  water  while 
baking  and  need  not  be  [made  hot  enough  to  spoil 
them;  these  little  puddings  bake  in  15  or  20  min- 
utes. 

The  mixtures  so  treated  puff  up  either  hollow  or 
very  spongy,  and  must  be  carried  to  table  in  that 
condition.  Smooth  mixtures  like  bread  puddings 
and  corn  starch  or  rice  flour  compounds  puff  more 
than  rough-grained  sorts,|such  as  cocoanut  creams  or 
rice  pudding.  The  pastry  creams  used  for  filling 
puffs,  also  lemon]  honey,  pine  apple  conserve  and 
the  like,  that  are  already  cooked  need  only  to  have 
from  4  to  6  "yolks  added  and  then  the  whipped 
whites  to  make  the  richest  possible  souflBes.  Flavor- 
ings and  brandy  or  wine  are  to  be  added  according 
to  taste. 

With  these  general  explanations  covering  the 
whole  matter,  only  a  few  examples  will  be  given  here 
and  there  as  we  go  along. 


338. 


"Egg  SouffleS' 


INDIVIDUAL  PUFF  PUDDINGS. 

First  make  the  frangipane  pastry  cream  :  1  quart 
of  milk;  2  ounces  of  butter;  4  ounces  of  flour;  8 
ounces  of  sugarf  5  eggs.  Mix  sugar  and  flour  dry; 
stir  into  the  boiling  milk;  cook  awhile,  then  add  the 
eggs,  and  simmer  20  minutes. 


80 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


When  this  is  partly  cooled  beat  the  yolks  of  6  eggs 
and  stir  them  in  a  little  at  a  time;  flavor  with  lem- 
on, vanilla  or  cinnamon  extract.  Then  whip  the 
whites  of  8  eggs  quite  firm  and  stir  them  in  lightly. 
Bake  either  in  cups  or  paper  cases,  10  to  15  min- 
utes, in  a  brisk  oven.  Sift  on  the  top  of  each  some 
powdered  sugar  flavored  with  vanilla  powder  or 
lemon  zest.  No  sauce  required.  The  chocolate  pas- 
try cream,  and  others  to  be  found  in  "Cream  Fill- 
ings" can  be  used  in  precisely  the  same  way. 

339.  

Baked  Brown  Bread  Puddinar. 


POUDING  A  LA  GOTHA. 


2  full  pressed  quarts  of  graham  bread  crumbs. 

2  quarts  of  water  or  milk  (8  cups). 

4  ounces  of  molasses  (2  cooking  spoons). 

4  ouiices  of  butter. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

Have  the  bread  finely  crumbled;  melt  the  butter 
and  mix  it  with  the  milk,  eggs  and  molasses;  stir  all 
together  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

The  natural  lightness  of  the  bread  counts  for  qual- 
ity in  all  these  puddings,  and  it  should  not  be  de- 
stroyed by  either  scalding  or  heating. 

Serve  the  preceding  with  honey  and  butter  di- 
luted and  made  hot,  or  else  with  any  good  pudding 


Souffle  puddings,  it  has  been  remarked,  are  not 
adapted  for  hotel  dinners  long  drawn  out,  but  they 
are  very  handsomely  replaced  by  meringues,  which, 
— but  stay;  the  Boston  publisher's  pudding  must 
not  be  forgotten.  Blessed  is  the  hotel  guest  whom 
the  waiters  delight  to  honor.  The  publisher  was  one 
of  these — sojourning  in  a  beautiful  winter  city — but 
whether  it  was  a  real  Spartan  like  abstemiousness  of 
habit  or  whether  there  could  be  nothing  good  out- 
side of  Boston,  all  their  efforts  were  thrown  away 
until 

**Ha  1  now  you  are  bringing  me  something  I 
like." 


340.      Boston  Bread  Puddingr, 


WITH  BRANDY  SAUCE. 


2  pounds  of  bread  in  slices. 

^  pound  of  butter — best  fresh. 

2  quarts  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

4  whole  eggs  and  4  yolks. 

1  pound  of  clean  picked  currants. 

^  a  nutmeg,  grated. 

Have  the  slices  free  from  dark  crust.  Spread 
them  with  the  butter  and  place  in  two  layers  in  two 
pudding  pans,  with  the  currants  sprinkled  between 


and  on  top.  Beat  and  mix  the  eggs,  sugar,  milk 
and  nutmeg  together,  pour  over  the  bread,  cover  the 
puddings  with  either  buttered  paper  orbread  crusts, 
and  bake  about  half  an  hour.  To  be  good,  this  pud- 
ding must  have  plenty  of  custard  in  proportion  to 
the  bread,  and  be  baked  late  and  served  hot. 

Lemon  transparent  sauce  answers  as  well  as 
brandy. 

"They  say"  that  we  in  hotels  run  too  much  to  baked 
puddings  and  not  enough  to  boiled-and  steamed.  It 
need  not  be  so.  They,  the  complainants,  are  prob- 
ably English,  Germans  and  Scotch,  who  all  are  ac- 
customed to  puddings  boiled  rather  than  baked. 
The  last  boiled  pudding  we  had  was  Scottish.  Where 
else  in  old  Scotland  did  we  see  a  nice  person  making 
a  boiled  pudding,  a  favorite  cosmopolitan  sort  not 
National  in  character  ?  Of  course  it  was  not  Meg 
Merrilies  stirring  the  witch-pot  which  so  terrified 
Dominie  Sampson,  hun  gry  as  he  was;  nor  Flora  Mao 
Ivor;  nor  Die  Vernon;  nor  George  Sands' s  French  im- 
itation of  her,  yet  it  was  some  one  with  a  family  resem- 
blance to  them,  only  there  was  the  dash  of  sea  waves 
somewhere  about.  Mirando  keeping  house  for  Pros- 
pero  in  the  island  cavern  in  the  Tempest  ?  No.  Two 
young  people  cooking  wild  ducks  on  an  island  in 
Foul  Play  ?  No;  milder;  further  north,  among 
cliffs  and  wild  fowl.  Noma,  of  the  Fitful  Head  ? 
No;  but  near  by  in  Scottish  waters.  It  was  Madcap 
"Violet  on  board  a  yacht  making  an  apricot  jam 
pudding,  a  real  roly-poly  pudding  for  the  captain, 
and  all  hands  if  there  were  any  besides  Apricot 
jam  pudding  is  real  good.  Green  apple  rolls  are 
rather  more  popular  on  this  side.  Does  Mr.  William 
Black  really  wish  it  to  be  understood  that  over  there 
the  wealthy  railroad  builders'  daughters  all  know 
how  to  make  puddings  ?  This  one,  it  seems,  made 
her  jam  pudding  with  a  heart  ache;  a  very  poor 
mixture;  too  heavy;  baking  powder  is  incomparably 
bet'er,  as  you  shall  see. 

Boiled  fruit  rolls  have  the  great  recommendation 
of  not  requiring  either  milk  or  eggs  in  their  compo- 
sition. Nowhere  are  eggs  so  lavishly  used  as  in  our 
American  hotel  kitchens.  They  are  usually  cheap 
enough,  and  if  not  it  is  best  that  articles  requiring 
eggs  should  have  enough  to  make  them  what  they 
ought  to  be,  but  the  need  is,  for  times  of  scarcity,  to 
cultivate  a  knowledge  of  articles  of  a  plainer  sort. 
These  roll  puddings  and  other  plain  combinations  of 
flour  and  fruit  are  used  everywhere  in  England. 
The  Frenchman  serves  them  at  the  best  tables  as 
le  pouding  roule,  or  &s  pouding  a  I'  Allemande,  or,  d 

r  Anglaise, 
when  made  with  preserves  or  jam. 

Not  many  can,  and  perhaps  not  many  try,  to  make 
the  paste  for  boiled  rolls  as  good  as  it  is  capable  of 
being;  but  when  good  it  can  safely  be  said  that  none 
of  our  richest  puddings  are  more  in  request  than 
these  foP  owing. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


81 


341. 


Boiled  Roll  Paste. 


It  is  required  to  be  as  light  and  dry-looking  when 
boiled,  as  bread  or  biscuit,  and  to  peel  apart  in 
flakes  It  is  made  in  the  same  general  manner  as 
puff  paste,  but  to  secure  the  flakiness  must  be  rolled 
only  4  times.  No  shortening  nor  powder  to  be  rubbed 
in,  but  all  to  be  rolled  in  layers.  The  softer  the 
dough  can  be,  to  roll  well,  the  better  will  be  the 
pudding. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

1  pint  of  water — full  measure, 

1  teaspoonful  of.salt. 

f  pound  of  firm,  cold,  sweet  lard. 

4  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Butter  can  be  used  instead  of  lard,  and  the  salt 
omitted. 

Lay  aside  a  large  handful  of  the  flour  to  dust  with. 
Pour  the  cold  water  in  the  middle  of  the  rest  of  the 
flour  and  mix  carefully  to  have  it  smooth.  Turn 
the  dough  on  the  floured  table,  work  it  very  little, 
spread  it  out  by  rolling;  drop  the  lard  in  lumps  an 
inch  apart  all  over,  sprinkle  the  salt  on  that,  sift  a 
little  flour  over,  fold  it  in  three,  and  count  that  one 
turn.  Roll  it  out  again,  spread  two  teaspoons  of 
powder  over  it  dry  like  so  much  flour,  fold  over  and 
count  two.  At  the  next  rolling  spread  on  the  rest 
of  the  powder,  and  one  more  rolling  and  folding, 
making  four  times,  finishes  it.  Common  short  paste 
and  biscuit  dough  can  also  be  used  for  roll  pud- 
dings; also  biscuit  dough  improved  by  having  short- 
ening rolled  in. 


343.    Boiled  Green  Apple  Roll. 

Pare  and  slice  enough  good  cooking  apples  to 
make  two  quarts  when  minced.  Chop  them  in  a 
bowl  and  use   without  cooking,   to  spread  over  the 

paste. 

Cut  the  paste  already  made  into  4  pieces,  roll  out 
thin,  spread  the  chopped  apples  evenly,  roll  up  and 
tie  in  pudding  cloths  previously  wetted  and  floured. 
Stick  a  pin  in  the  middle  to  prevent  swelling  open; 
drop  into  plenty  of  boiling  water  and  keep  boiling 
without  check  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Serve  with  butter  and  sugar  hard  sauce. 

These  rolls  can  be  steamed  as  well.  The  writer 
thinks  they  are  better  boiled.  Dip  each  one  a  mo- 
ment in  cold  water  when  taking  up,  they  come  out 
of  the  cloth  easier  for  it. 


343.     Butter  and  Sugar  Sauce. 


HARD  SAUCE. 


1  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

J  pound  of  best  butter. 

Nutmeg. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  sufficiently  to  mix 
well.  Beat  them  together  till  perfectly  white. 
Grate  nutmeg  over  the  smooih  top.  A  favorite  kind 
of  sauce  for  any  plain  pudding. 


344.       Boiled  Cranberry  Roll. 

2  quarts  of  cranbei'ries. 

1  pound  of  white  sugar. 

^  pint  of  water. 

Wash  and  pick  over  the  cranberries,  place  I  hem 
in  a  bright  kettle,  strew  the  sugar  over  the  top  and 
pour  the  water  over  that.  Put  on  a  tight  lid  to  keep 
in  the  steam,  let  them  come  to  a  boil  slowly.  Cook 
about  half  an  hour.  Mash  through  a  colander  and 
use  the  pulp  for  the  boiled  rolls.  Itought  to  be  cold 
before  being  used. 

All  of  these  puddings  are  calculated  for  about  fif- 
ty people's  orders. 

Hotel  cooks  dishing  up  dinner  like  to  sell  out  their 
wares,  whether  fish,  entrees,  pastries   or  creams,  as 
well  as  people  in  market.       The  market  varies  a  lit 
tie  in  its  demands,  but  in  a    general  way    the  roly- 
poly  puddings  finding  the  readiest   sale  are  the  two 
kinds  proceeding;  after  them  come 
CURRANT  JELLY  ROLL. 
APRICOT  JAM  ROLL. 
PEACH  ROLL. 
HUCKLEBERRY  ROLL, 
and  then  one  made  with   molasses  mixed  with  flour 
and  vinegar. 


It  takes  baking-powder  to  make  the  preceding  ar- 
ticles, but  the  less  shortening.  Light  and  whole- 
some preparations  are  taking  the  places  of  the  too 
solid  puddings  of  a  little  while  back.  But  baking, 
powder  cannot  be  had  everywhere,  and  the  cook  is 
most  independent  of  circumstances  who  is  richest 
in  resources.  Other  kinds  of  paste  will  do  well,  as 
will  be  shown  further  on.  At  present  we  are  in 
haste  to  get  up  some  puddings  for  Sundays.  Before 
getting  too  far  away  from  them,  however,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  remark  that  none  of  the  plum  puddings 
intended  for  boiling  are  of  much  account  when 
baked,  but  the  following,  if  carefully  baked,  will  be 
found  very  satisfactory. 

To  crumble  bread  when  it  cannot  be  grated,  first 
slice  it  very  thin,  then  cut  in  shreds  and  across  in 
small  squares.  It  is  the  only  neat  way.  Puddings 
with  white  rough  pieces  of  bread  in  the  middle  do 
not  look  well. 


346.     Baked  Fruit   Pudding. 


1  pound  of  bread  crumbs. 

^  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

^  pound  of  raisins. 

^  pound  of  currants. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

1  pint  of  milk  or  water. 

3  eggs.     Salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

1  level  teaspoonful  of  soda 

Crumble  the  bread  small;  mix  all  the  dry  articles 


81? 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


with  it  except  soda,  which  dissolve  in  the  milk. 
Beat  the  eggs  in  the  milk  and  stir  up  the  pudding 
with  it,  add  the  brandy  last.  Bake  one  hour  in 
buttered  pans.  Cover  with  paper  to  keep  the  fruit 
from  blistering. 

What  the  following  pudding  has  done  that  it 
should  be  called  the  "queen  of  puddings"  no  one 
knows,  but  that  is  one  name  it  is  known  by  on  both 
sides  of  the  Atlantic.  Cooks  demur  at  the  appella- 
tion, because  there  is  always  as  good  a  pudding  in 
their  lepository  as  ever  was  brought  out,  and  each 
one  is  the  queen  for  the  day.  However  this  is  a 
pretty  pudding. 


347.         Nonpareil   Pudding. 


JELLY  PUDDING,  MERINGUE  PUDDING,  QUEEN 
OF  PUDDINGS,  ETC. 

1  pressed  in  quart  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  butter  melted. 

J  pound  of  sugar. 

1  lemon. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  cup  of  fruit  jelly. 

5  whites  and  4  ounces  of  sugar  for  the  merin 
gue. 

The  jelly  is  to  spread  on  top  after  the  pudding 
are  baked. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  preceding  it  together  cold 
— the  lemon  grated  and  squeezed.  Bake  till  set  in 
the  middle.  Take  out  and  spread  the  jelly  over  the 
top.  Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  till  they  will  not  fall 
out  of  the  bowl  turned  upside  down;  stir  in  the  su- 
gar— granulated  is  best — and  a  few  drops  of  flavor- 
ing. Set  the  puddings  back  in  the  oven  till  the  jelly 
on  top  is  at  boiling  he  it,  then  spread  the  meringue 
over  and  let  them  stay  with  the  oven  doors  wide 
open  to  dry.bake  and  acquire  a  slight  color. 


It  seems  impossible  to  get  along  very  fast,  for  now 
there  has  to  be  a  little  talk  about  meringues.  Me- 
ringue (marang)  paste  is  the  mixture  of  beaten  white 
of  egg  and  sugar.  When  we  write  lemon  pie  me- 
ringuS,  it  means  that  it  is  meringued.  Meringues 
ake  a  wide  scope.  The  icing  and  ornamenting  on 
cakes  is  strictly  meringue  paste.  Egg  kisses,  as  they 
are  called,  are  meringues.  The  diflferences  are  only 
in  the  proportion  of  sugar  to  eggs.  Let  us  call  this 
on  puddings  and  lemon  pies  soft  meringue  to  distin- 
guish it  from  frosting.  A  tray  full  of  saucers  of 
pudding  of  the  preceding  sort  looks  very  attractive 
when  success  has  attended  the  making.  The  pud- 
ding should  be  shallow  in  the  pan,  and  the  meringue 
should  be  of  about  equal  thickness;  should  be  firm 
and  cut  square,  only  very  often  it  does  not  do  so, 
but  falls  after  baking  till  it   is  nothing  but  a  pitiful 


scum.  Too  much  baking  is  generally  the  reason. 
Meringue  needs  only  a  very  slight  heat.  Another 
thing  that  spoils  meringue  is  spreading  it  on  cold 
jelly  or  fruit.  It  never  cooks  at  bottom  but  dis- 
solves to  syrup.  Have  the  puddingg  or  pies  baking 
hot  when  the  meringue  touches  them  and  it  will  not 
disappoint  you.  As  to  getting  the  whites  to  beat  up 
light  with  ease  and  certainty  that  can  be  accom- 
plished by  having  them  cold  to  begin  with,  in  a  cold 
bowl  and  beaten  in  a  cool  place.  Fifteen  minutes  of 
hard  work  may  be  avoided  by  taking  this  precau- 
tion, and  five  minutes'  beating  will  do  as  well. 


The  next  is  a  fine  pudding  to  make  when  you 
have  used  the  last  pint  of  milk  obtainable  for  ice 
cream;  for  this  needs  to  be  made  with  water,  to  be 
semi-transparent. 


Lemon  Meringue  Pudding,  with  Sweet 
348.  Cream. 


1  full  pressed  quart  of  bread  crumbs. 

1  quart  of  water. 

6  ounces  of  finely  chopped  suet. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  lemons — rinds  of  all,  juice  of  2. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  into  the  bread 
crumbs — using  a  tin  grater  and  scraping  the  zest 
from  that  with  a  lump  of  sugar — also  mix  in  the 
suet.  Squeeze  the  lemon  juice  into  the  water,  pour 
it  over  the  bread,  add  the  sugar,  eggs  beaten,  and 
lastly  the  soda  in  a  little  water.  Bake  and  finish 
by  spreading  meringue  over  the  top — made  of  the 
whites  left  over — same  as  directed  for  nonpareil 
pudding  preceding.  No  jelly  needed.  For  an 
acid  pudding  like  this  an  extra  sweetness  and  fine 
appearance  may  be  given  by  sifting  granulated  sugar 
on  top  of  the  meringue  at  the  moment  before  putting 
it  in  the  oven — makes  a  glazed  crust.  The  lemon 
pudding,  of  course,  can  be  left  plain,  without  merin- 
gue. Sweetened  cream  made  hot,  but  not  boiled,  is 
the  best  sauce. 


349.      Lemon  Pudding  Souffle. 


INDIVIDUAL  LEMON  PUDDINGS. 


Make  the  mixture  for  the  lemon  pudding  of  the 
preceding  receipt.  Instead  of  baking  stir  it  over  the 
fire  in  a  bright  saucepan  till  it  becomes  thick  and 
pasty.  Beat  4  or  6  more  yolks  quite  light  and  stir 
them  in;  then  beat  all  the  whites  left  over  to  a  stiff 
froth  and  mix  them  in  likewise.  Bake  in  cups  or 
paper  cases.  If  wished  ;o  ornament  these  small 
puddings  make  some  meringue  and  drop  a  table- 
spoonful  on  top  while  baking,  when  done  fawn  col- 
or drop  some  spots  of  bright  red  currant  jelly  on  top 
of  that.  Send  straight  from  the  oven  to  the  table, 
as  they  soon  fall. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


83 


Already  there  are  two  or  tbree  ways  indicated  of 
"topping  oflF"  with  meringue— plain;  with  a  crust- 
ing of  sugar  on  top;  and  with  spots  of  red  jelly  on 
the  white;  ways  that  are  equally  applicable  to  flor- 
entines,  fruit  compotes  and  other  dishes.  The  next 
specimen  gives  another  variation. 

350.    Baked  Oocoanut  Pudding. 
WITH  ORANGE  SYRUP. 


1  pound  of  cocoanut  (less  if  the  desiccated  is 
used). 

1  full  pressed  quart  of  bread  crumbs. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
2  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  lemon,  or  sour  orange. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

Make  up  like  preceding  kinds;  mix  in  half  the 
cocoanut  and  bake  in  two  buttered  pans.  Beat  up  6 
whites  of  eggs,  add  to  the  firm  froth  5  ounces  of 
granulated  sugar  and  the  remaining  half  pound  of 
cocoanut.  Spread  this  cocoanut  meringue  over  the 
puddings  and  bake  again  very  slowly  with  the  oven 
doors  open.  Cut  in  squares  or  diamond  shapes  and 
serve  with  orange  syrup. 
351.  

There  are  numbers  of  good  nondescript  articles 
which  we  hardly  know  where  to  place  on  an  Ameri- 
can hotel  bill-of  fare. 

Their  merit  is  proven  by  that  best  of  tests,  a  con- 
stant appreciative  demand.  A  good  dinner  gets  to 
looking  incomplete  when  occasionally  they  are  left 
oflf.  As  these  articles  do  not  belong  anywhere  else 
they  are  by  common  consent  and  usage  called  "sweet 
entrees'' — which  is  probably  an  Americanism— and 
with  the  entrees  they  stand,  usually  bringing  up  the 
rear. 

As  already  hinted,  these  "sweet  entrees"  are  al- 
ways  evidently  welcome  and  undoubtedly  make  a 
difference  in  the  amount  of  pastry  required  after- 
wards. But  one  of  these  is  enough  at  a  time.  Bad 
taste,  poor  management  and  poverty  of  resource 
among  meats  and  vegetables  are  apparent  when  a 
bill-of-fare  with  ten  or  twelve  entrees  shows  half  of 
them  to  be  of  a  sweet  or  farinaceous  character. 
Without  the  one  each  day  a  long  line  of  favorites, 
such  as  fruit  fritters,  charlottes,  rice  cakes,  sweet 
croquettes,  patties,  turnovers,  rice  with  apples,  pan- 
cakes, etc.,  etc.,  cou'd  never  appear  at  all. 

This,  however,  applies  only  to  hotels  furnishing 
full  length  bills-of-fare.  There  are  greater  numbers 
of  houses,  both  public  and  private,  where  any  one  of 
these  sweet  entrees  might  suffice  for  the  pastry 
course,  and  this  is  particularly  the  reason  for  here 
describing  the  charlottes  which  are  oftenest  used  as 
puddings 


and  its  cheapness,  make  it  worth  the  attention  here 
given  to  details. 


353. 


Apple  Charlotte. 


A  LA  PARISIENNE. 


A  fruit  charlotte  cannot  be    "thrown   together" 
and  be  good.     Its  excellence,  when  carefully  made, 


Compote    of   apples,  or  apples  stewed    dry  and 
sweet,  baked  between  two   layers  of  buttered  bread 
and  glazed  with  egg  and  sugar. 
40  small  thin  slices  of  French  roHs. 

2  pounds  of  pared  and  quartered  apples 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

f  pound  of  butter. 

1  or  2  eggs  for  glaze. 

Nutmeg  or  cinnamon. 

Stew  the  apples  soft  with  three-fourths  of  the  su- 
gar and  a  pint  of  water  and  steam  shut  in;  then 
mash  with  a  spoon  and  grate  nutmeg  in. 

Dip  the  slices  of  rolls  as  lightly  as  possible  in  the 
butter  melted  in  a  deep  pan — dip  both  sides  without 
touchingthe  salt  dregs.  Line  two  bright,  three- 
quart  pans  with  them,  bottom  and  sides,  divide  the 
apple  in,  placing  it  well  around  the  sides;  lay  more 
dipped  slices  all  over  the  tops  slightly  pressed  into 
the  fruit,  and  bake  the  charlottes  of  a  nice  toast 
color,  bottom  crusts  as  well  as  top.  Then  with  a 
brush  wet  them  over  with  egg  and  water;  dredge 
the  remaining  sugar  over  and  bake  ten  minutes  more 
to  glaze. 

To  be  dished  out  of  the  pans;  no  sauce  needed 
unless  for  pudding,  when  sweet  cream  is  best. 


For  a  charlotte  to  be  served  whole  still  greater  care 
is  needed  in  baking.  Take  a  deep  mould,  a  six  or 
eight  sided  cake  or  pudding  mould  does.  Cut  slices 
of  bread  to  fit— bottom,  top  and  sides.  Spread  but- 
ter rather  thickly  on  one  side  the  slices,  dip  the 
other  side  in  beaten  egg;  place  them  with  the  butter 
next  the  tin,  fill  the  inside  with  the  apple  compote; 
place  the  cover  of  bread  on  top  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  over  half  an  hour.  Turn  it  out  carefully 
on  to  the  dish,  glaze  over  with  egg  and  sugar  and 
the  red-hot  salamander  and  pour  round  it  either 
diluted  red  jelly  or  else  whipped  cream. 

354.  Buttered  Apples  on  Toast- 


AMERICAN  APPLE  CHARLOTTE. 


This  can  only  be  made  "just  right"  when  extra 
good,  easy-bakin^  apples  are  at  hand,  because  the 
raw  apples  should  be  done  by  the  time  the  bread 
at  bottom  is  browned.  Pippins  and  bellflowers  are 
best. 
40  thin,  square  slices  of  bread. 

2  pounds  of  pared  apples. 

f  pound  of  butter. 

f  pound  of  sugar. 

Cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 

The  slices  of  bread  should  be  all  of  one  size.    Dip 


&^ 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


one  fide  ia  melted  butter  and  place  them,  buttered 
side  do?rn,  ia  close  order  in  a  shallow  baking-pan; 
place  lialf  an  apple  or  two  quarters  on  each  slice  and 
bake  brown  with  repeated  bastings  with  a  syrup 
made  cf  the  sugar,  butter  and  cup  of  hot  water  and 
cinnamon.  The  apples  ought  to  shine  transparently 
without  black  edges  when  done.  Dish  up  with  an 
egg-slice. 


355.     Charlotte  a  la  Marialva. 


Named,  probably,  after  a  French  cathedral  town; 
possib'y  a  monastery.  It  is  a  charlotte  of  the  most 
elaborate  degree,  the  bread  cut  in  small  fancy 
shapes  and  placed  in  patterns,  or  in  fingers  lapping 
edges,  on  the  sides  of  a  mould  spread  with  butter. 
Apples  and  apricots,  sugar  and  butter  and  fruit 
jelly  all  stewed  down  to  a  paste  is  used  to  fi  1. 
Baked,  glazed,  and  wine  sauce  served  with  it. 


The  preceding  directions  and  examples  apply  to 

PEACH  CHARLOTTES. 
PEAR  CHARLOTTES. 
CHARLOTTES  OF  MIXED  FRUITS. 

Almost  any  kind  can  be  used.  The  poorest  that  can 
be  used  for  such  a  purpose  are  the  mulberries  dyed 
with  logwood,  which  are  now  being  sold  for  canned 
blackberries.  Mulberries  with  their  own  natural 
color,  when  mixed  with  sour  apples,  are  good 
enough. 


Now  here,  in  the  next,  is  another  knot  to  be  un- 
tied. Not  that  the  charlotte  itself  is  a  knot,  else  it 
were  better  cut  than  picked  apieces,  but  the  name, 
"friar's  omelet,"  whence  comes  it  ?  The  clue  in  this 
case  is  fainter  than  the  almost  invisible  thread  which 
led  through  the  maze  to  Fair  Rosamond's  bower. 
Why  should  a  charlotte,  or  rather,  perhaps  a  mix- 
ture of  apples  be  called  an  omelet,  unless,  because, 
it  looked  like  omelet  ?  And  suppose  the  preceding 
charlotte  a  la  Marialva  came  from  a  monastery  and 
the  English  cooks  made  an  ap;le  mixture  as  near 
like  it  as  they  could  and  called  it  friar's  omelet. 
And  suppose  the  French  cooks  adopted  the  English 
mixture  because  it  was  good  and  called  it  English 
apple  cake.  That  is  how  it  seems  to  have  been. 
There  used  to  be  a  saying  about  the  longest  way 
round  being  the  shortest  way  home,  and  another 
about  going  from  home  to  learn  the  news.  Some 
English  names  being  placed  backwards  in  French 
have  come  back  to  our  language  as  new  words,  as 
canteen  from  tin  can;  so  in  French  cook  books  we 
find  that  called  English  apple  cake,  which  in  Eng- 
lish on  both  siJes  of  the  Atlantic  is  called  friar's 
omelet. 

Suppose  once  more  that  some  person  out  of  pa- 
tience with  trying  to  line  his  charlotte  mould  with 
bread  patterns  of  leaves,  flowers,  crosses  and  hearts 
and    diamonds,    just  crumble  the    bread  fine  and 


pressed  a  blanket  like  coat  of  crumbs  on  to  the  thick 
buttered  slides  of  the  mould,  filled  that  wilh  the  fol- 
lowing mixture  and  ba'^ed  it  of  a  handsome  reddish 
brown,  why  then  you  have  a  very  fair  conception  of 
the  way  that  many  of  our  good  but  rough-aud  ready 
American  dishes  came  to  be  made. 


356.  English  Sweet  Apple  Cake 

FRIAR'S  OMELET.     GATEAU  DE  POMMES  REN- 
VERS"E. 

A  kind  of  tirabale  of  apple  custard  baked  with  a 
casing  of  bread  crumbs. 

1  quart  of  dry  stewed  apples,  or  baked  apple 
pulp. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

^  cupful  of  cream. 

6  eggs. 

Nutmeg  and  cinnamon. 

Bread  crumbs,  about  a  quart. 

Custard  for  sauce. 

Mash  the  drained  apples  through  a  colander, 
add  the  butter  to  it  while  warm,  then  the  sugar  and 
flavor,  and  the  eggs  and  creim  beaten  together. 
Ppread  some  softened  butter  all  over  the  inside  of  a 
mould  or  pudding  pan  and  press  on  all  the  fine 
grated  bread  crumbs  that  can  be  made  to  stick. 
Pour  in  the  apple  mixture;  cover  the  top  with 
crumbs  pressed  in;  moisten  the  top  with  melted  but- 
ter and  bake  brown,  and  well  set. 

Turn  the  apple  cake  carefully  upside  down  out  of 
the  mould  and  serve  it  either  with  whipped  cream 
flavored  with  wiue  and  sugar,  {d  la  chantilly)  or 
with  diluted  red  fruit  jelly  [sauce  auxfruiti). 


357. 


Individual  Charlottes. 


Are  best  and  easiest  made  with  either  the  friar*s 
omelet  mixture  preceding,  or  the  apple  custard  pud- 
ding following;  use  the  deepest  gem  pans;  if  fluted 
or  otherwise  ornamented  shapes,  so  much  the  better. 
Brush  them  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  soft  butter, 
coat  with  bread  crumbs,  fill  and  bake  like  the  large 
apple  cake.  ^\hea  done  have  somt  sauce  dorSe 
ready;  mix  into  it  a  nearly  equal  amount  of  thick 
cream  whipped  to  froth,  and  pour  this  around  the 
charlottes  Another  way  is  to  place  a  spoonfal  of 
meringue  on  each  one  and  set  the  charlottes  back  in 
the  oven  on  a  baking  pan  to  color.  Place  two  or 
three  red  raspberries  on  top  of  the  meringue.  No 
sauce  required. 

358.    Apple  Puddings  Souflles. 

INDIVIDUAL. 


Make  either  the  friar's  omelet  mixture  or  the  ap- 
ple custard  next  following.     Instead  of  baking,  stir 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


85 


the  mixture  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  thick.  Take 
it  oflF  and  add  4  beaten  jolks,  ^  cup  of  brandy,  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract  and  the  same  of  ex- 
tract of  cloves;  then  6  whites  of  eggs  beaten  up  firm. 
Bake  in  cups,  shells  or  paper  cases.  If  the  apple 
justard  be  used — it  is  the  richer  of  the  two — observe 
that  it  is  of  double  quantity  and  the  added  ingredi- 
ents must  be  doubled  accordingly. 

350.     Apple  Custard  Pudding. 
A  L'AMERICAINE. 


2  quarts  of  dry  stewed  apples  or  baked  apple 
pulp. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

^  pound  of  butter. 
20  yolks  of  eggs. 

Lemon,  nutmeg,  or  cinnamon  flavor. 

Mash  the  drained  apples  through  a  strainer.  Mix 
in  the  other  ingredients.  Bake  in  a  bright  pan  pre- 
viously buttered.  Use  as  pudding  with  either 
sweetened  cream  or  wine  sauce. 


Here  we  have  reached  a  boundary  line.  One  step 
more  would  be  out  of  the  domains  of  pudding  and 
over  the  borders  of  pie,  for  the  last  apple  custard 
with  a  little  milk  added  makes  nice  apple  cream 
pie. 

'•Well,  thankgoodness,  it  was  not  a  bread  pud- 
ding, for  we  are  so  tired  of  bread  puddings." 

"When  did  we  have  any  bread  puddings  ?  We 
have  had  queen  of  puddings,  plum  puddings,  baked 
fruit  pudding,  lemon  pudding,  cocoanut  pudding, 
charlottes,  and  souffles  and  meringues." 

«'They  all  have  bread  in  them,  more  or  less,  ex- 
cept the  boiled  roll  puddings,  and  they  are  made  of 
biscuit  dough." 

"But  they  all  and  many  more  were  made  with 
bread,  more  or  less,  before  our  time;  and  they  are 
none  of  the  rough,  unsightly  bread  crust  abom- 
inations,  but  delicate  compounds  of  fine,  white 
crumbs." 

"There  is  no  fault  to  be  found  with  the  puddings, 
but  don't  you  see  there's  no  more  bread  in  the 
house  ?" 

"Oh,  well  there  are  many  good  substitutes  when 
bread  cannot  be  obtained,  but  you  will  manage  to 
admit  just  one  more  that  is  made  with  bread,  more  or 
less,  both  because  it  is  a  boiled  pudding  for  a  change, 
and  has  already  once  been  called  by  name  but  never 
appeared.    It  is  one  of  the  best." 


360. 


Eve's  Puddingf. 


A  favorite  variety  of  the  plum  pudding  order, 
light  and  not  too  rich.  Also  called  pouding  d  la 
Francaise.  The  pundit  who  put  the  receipt  in 
verse  was  not  concerned  about  the  needs  of  large 
hotels. 


1  pound  of  bread  crumbs  cut  fine. 

h  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

I  pound  of  seedless  raisins,  or  currants. 

f  pound  of  chopped  apples. 

J  a  nutmeg  grated. 

Mix  the  above  together  dry;  then  beat  together  : 

9  eggs      Salt. 

J  pound  of  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract. 

Stir  all  well  together;  tie  the  mixture  in  two  cloths, 
leaving  a  little  room  to  swell,  and  boil  without  stop- 
page 4  hours.  When  eggs  are  scarce  5  or  6  will  do 
with  half  a  cup  of  milk  added.  Butter  and  sugar 
sauce  is  suitable;  though  one  says,  '-Adam  won't 
like  it  without  wine  and  sugar." 


"Such,"  says  Bulwer,  'is  the  constant  habit  of 
young  people.  They  think  anything  expensive  is 
necessarily  good."  Bulwer  was  young  himself  at 
that  time,  and  must  have  known  how  it  was.  If  the 
obverse  was  as  invariably  the  case  we  should  expect 
to  find  but  few  admirers  of  the  following,  which  is 
the  cheapest  pudding  made.  Certainly  ii  is  not  the 
case  in  this  direction,  for  we  find  no  difficulty  in 
disposing  of  large  quantities  of  this  pudding  of  many 
names.  However,  it  must  be  properly  baked,  and 
ought  to  be  in  a  brick  oven,  otherwise  it  has  no 
goodness  at  all.  The  theory  of  rice  pudding  is — 
by  the  way,  perhaps  you  did  not  know  there  was  a 
theory  of  rice  pudding  ?  Yes,  indeed.  This  is  a 
great  day  for  theories,  and  there  is  a  pudding  theory 
as  well  as  a  nebular  theory  and  an  atomic  theory ' 
and  an  evolution  theory;  and  as  there  will  be  unlim- 
ited time  to  study  the  others  after  we  are  done  with 
pudding  it  is  evident  the  pudding  theory  should 
stand  first. — The  rice  pudding  theory  teaches  that 
all  the  richness  is  derived  from  the  evaporation  and 
condensation  of  the  milk.  As  one  pint  of  rice  will 
absorb  three  pints  of  milk  and  no  more,  the  baking 
has  to  be  so  protracted  that  the  pudding  is  made  to 
contain  the  condensed  richness  of  six  pints  of  milk, 
half  of  it,  the  watery  part  being  dried  out  in  the 
oven.  As  a  matter  of  course  the  richer  the  milk  and 
the  more  cream  it  contains  the  better  it  will  be  to 
start  with.  ' 


Baked  Rice  and  Milk  Pudding.      Asto:f 
House   Pudding.       English   Rice 
Pudding.    Plain  Rice  Pud- 
ding.    Poor  Man's 
Pudding,  Etc 

361.  

1  pint  of  rice. 

1  pint  of  white  sugar. 
6  pints  of  milk. 

Ground  cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 
Very  little  salt. 

2  ounces  of  butter,  optional. 

Wash  the  rice  in  three  or   four  waters  and  divide 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


it  in  two  pudding  pans.  Mix  the  sugar,  salt  and 
cinnamon  equally  with  it,  then  pour  in  the  milk 
cold.  Add  the  butter  if  the  milk  is  not  rich.  Bake 
in  a  slow  oven  3  or  4  hours.  It  may  be  best  to  use 
only  5  pints  of  milk  at  first,  and  add  the  other  if 
the  time  allows  the  puddings  to  boil  down  dry 
enough.  Scorching  on  top  may  be  prevented  by 
covering  with  paper  previously  greased.  Almost 
any  pudding  sauce  is  suitable,  and  so  is  pure  cream, 
but  for  preference,  sauce  dorSe  or  golden  sauce  may 
be  taken;  it  gives  the  best  appearance  to  so  plain  a 
pudding. 

People  who  are  weary  of  the  sameness  of  egg- 
laden  and  butter-soaked  hotel  puddings,  and  who 
like  simple  flavors,  will  appreciate  the  foregoing 
plain  rice  pudding  and  the  following  wholesome 
variations  of  the  same. 


SS2,    Bioe  and  Apple  Pudding. 


The  plain  rice  pudding  preceding,  made  with  only 
4  pints  of  milk  and  1  pound  of  good  cooking  apples, 
pared,  cored  and  quartered. 

Drop  the  quartered  apples  in  the  puddings,  bake 
3  or  4  hours  and  keep  covered  with  buttered  paper 
to  prevent  scorching,  and  black  edges  on  the  apples. 
An  inch  length  of  stick  cinnamon  to  each  pud- 
ding improves.  Cream  and  sugar,  or  else  hard 
sauce. 
363.  


Baked  Bice  and  Raisin  Puddingf. 


Same  as  the  last  with  raisins  instead  of  apples. 
None  of  the  foregoing  rice  puddings  should  ever  be 
stirred  while  baking.  The  rice  grains  should  be 
whole  when  done. 


The  next  needs  no  help  of  sauce  for  its  appear- 
ance. It  is  as  rich  and  delicate  as  a  rice  pudding 
pure  and  simple  can  be  made. 


So,  sonny,  you  say  you  have  a  mother  to  help,  and 
you  have  beea  trying  everywhere  and  you  can't  get 
anything  else  whatever  to  do,  therefore  you  want  to 
get  aj^b  in  the  kitchen.  Now,  don't  you  see  that 
is  not  at  all  complimentry  to  the  kitchen  ?  Hotel 
keepers  have  a  hard  enough  time  without  having  to 
contend  with  the  leavings  and  castaways  of  all  other 
occupations  and  employments.  Yet  they  always 
want  smart,  intelligent  and  industrious  boys.  You 
appear  to  have  sense,  perhaps  you  even  have  sense 
enough  to  become  a  good  cook.  And  you  might  do 
worse.  You  will  probably  live  to  see  the  time  when 
a  man  of  sense  and  sensibility  will  not  be  ashamed 
in  the  United  States  to  say  he  is  a  hotel  cook.  And 
we  all  want  helpers  of  the  right  sort.  Our  good 
seconds,  whose  ways  and  dispositions  we  know,  and 
who  know  ours,  are  continually  drifting  away  from 
us.      They  are  always  wanted   to  go  to  the  head  of 


some  other  kitchen.  They  take  partnerships  in  res 
taurants.  They  open  ice  cream  saloons,  bakeries, 
railway  eating  houses,  saloons,  lunch  stands;  they 
go  as  stewards;  and  some  are  lost  and  never  are 
found.  So  there  is  room  for  intelligent  boys  like 
you — if  you  are  intelligent.  ?he  keeps  you  clean 
and  decent,  doesn't  she  ?  Can  you  read  and  write  ? 
Yes.  Have  you  worked  in  a  kitchen  before — know 
a  stock  boiler  from  a  chopping  machine  ?  Yes,  you 
have  worked  about  a  kitchen  a  little.  Good  enough ; 
now  go  and  make  me  this  rice  pudding.  You  can't 
make  a  rice  pudding  ?  Oh,  yes  you  can;  the  finest 
rice  pudding  you  ever  saw;  just  as  good  as  I  can. 
Take  this  receipt;  hang  it  on  the  nail  before  you; 
follow  it  out;  you  will  come  out  right.  But  observe 
there  is  not  a  word  too  much,  and  every  word  means 
something.  When  it  says  buttered  pans  it  means 
you  are  to  butter  the  pans  before  you  pour  the  pud- 
dings in.  When  it  says  well  washed  rice  it  means 
you  are  to  sure  enough  wash  the  rice — rub  it  clean 
in  cold  water,  pick  out  the  specks;  pour  water  on 
and  oflF  it  till  there  is  no  more  sign  of  meal  in  it  It 
is  the  meal  or  flour  in  rice  that  burns  at  the  bottom 
of  the  saucepan,  not  the  rice  alone.  When  you  have 
made  this  successfully  preserve  the  receipt.  You 
will  not  be  a  cook  or  pastry  cook  because  that  one 
thing  is  done  perfectly;  it  will  take  you  five  years  to 
learn  it  a:I,  and  then  there  will  be  just  as  much  more 
that  you  will  never  learn.  But  if  you  do  some  new 
thing  each  day  and  hold  on  to  the  knowledge,  and 
observe  all  that  is  done  around  you  you  will  have 
gained  so  much  over  and  above  your  wages.  Count 
it  in  dollars  if  you  like;  one  dollar,  five  dollars;  ac- 
cording to  the  desirableness  of  the  article  you  have 
learned  to  produce;  according  to  the  difficulty  of 
making  it  which  you  will  have  overcome.  So  in  a  jear 
or  two  you  will  have  a  trade  better  for  you  than  if 
your  daddy  had  left  you  a  fortune.  Now  scoot. 
Don't  speak  to  me  anymore  till  I  speak  to  you.  The 
other  boys  will  show  you  where  to  find  the  rice, 
milk,  sugar,  butter,  eggs.  You  will  be  slow  at  first. 
We  don't  allow  youngsters  to  do  guess  work.  Old 
hands  may  guess,  but  even  they  can't  always  hit  it, 
and  your  ingredients  cost  money.  Afterwards  you 
must  learn  to  work  fast  if  you  are  going  to  be  a  ho- 
tel cook.  I  shall  know  by  to-night  exactly  what  you 
are  worth.  "For  man  is  man  and  master  of  his 
fate."  How  goes  that  song  ?  I  will  make  that  boy 
learn  it  if  it  can  ever  be  found  again. 

"Turn,  Fortune,  turn  thy  wheel  and  let  it  turn. 
Thy  wheel  and  thee  we  neitherfear  nor  hate. 

Our  lands  are  little  but  our  hearts  are  great, 
And  man  is  man  and  master  of  his  fate," 

Or  words  to  that  efifect. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


87 


864.     Rice   Oustard  Pudding. 


VANILLA  SAUCE. 

2  full  quarts  of  well  cooked  dry  ric«. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ouuces  of  sugar. 

8  jolks  of  eggs. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

1  tab'espoonful  of  lemon  extract 

The  rice  should  be  already  cooked  in  water  and 
milk.  Measure  it  and  while  still  hot  stir  in  the 
butter  and  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  with  the  mi'k 
gradually  added;  stir  well  into  the  rice;  flavor 
slightly;  pour  the  pudding  into  two  buttered  pans 
and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 

To  prepare  the  rice  from  the  first  boil  1  pound  of 
well- washed  rice  in  1  quart  of  water,  add  a  pinch 
of  salt.  When  half  done  add  1  pint  of  milk  and  let 
simmer  an  hour  with  the  steam  shut  in.  Never  stir 
it  and  it  will  not  be  very  apt  to  burn. 

Any  of  these  puddings  lett  over  can  be  used  for 
fritters. 

Full  directions  for  making  a  score  or  more  of  good 
pudding  sauces  will  be  found  all  together,  further 
on.  For  these  richest  rice  compounds  a  clear 
traosparent  sauce  flavored  with  vanilla,  or  else  with 
red  wine,  will  be  found  most  suitable. 


As  with  the  bread  custard  and  the  plain  rice  the 
reader  is  advised  to  note  particularly  the  preceding 
rice  custard,  not  only  to  avoid  repetition  here, 
which  would  be  a  small  matter,  but  because  the 
mystery  is  all  removed  from  the  variations  when 
the  basis  of  all  has  once  been  made. 


Carolina    Pudding,   with    Transparent 
305.  Sauce. 


Make  the  rice  custard  pudding  preceding,  and  add 
to  it  one  egg  more,  and  ^  pound  each  of  seedless  or 
seeded  raisins,  currants  and  candied  orange  peel. 
Flavor  with  orange  extract  very  lightly.  The  fruit 
must  be  strewn  evenly  over  the  top  after  the  pud- 
ding is  in  the  baking  pans,  and  slightly  pressed  in 
with  a  spoon;  else  it  may  all  sink  to  the  bottom. 


West  Indian  Pudding, 
360.  Jelly. 


with  Guava 


Make  the  rice  custard  pudding,  preceding,  and 
add  to  it  1  whole  egg  and  ^  pound  of  grated  fresh 
cocoanut.  Mix  all,  and  when  the  pudding  is  in  the 
pans  take  1  pounl  of  pineapple  in  thin,  small  slices 
and  lay  over  the  top,  slightly  pressing  it  in. 

The  pineapple,  if  fresh,  should  be  stewed  first  in 
a  little  sugar  syrup;  then  use  the  syrup  to  dilute  the 
guava  jelly  for  sauce. 

Bake  these  puddings  no  longer  than  till  fairly  set 


in  the  midd'e,  as  the  fruit  has  a  tendency  to  cause 
a  watery  separation  of  tho  eggs  if  cooked  too 
long.  Curacoa  diluted  a  little  and  made  hot  is  also 
a  good  sauce. 

For  the  same  reason  that  apple  charlottes  were  in- 
cluded, the  following  *'sweet  entrees'  are  hera 
placed  in  succession;  namely,  because  they  are  used 
as  puddings  on  occasion. 

30T.  

Rice  Cake;  with  Ourrant  Jelly. 

2  quarts  of  well  cooked  dry  rice. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  pint  of  milk  (or  less,  or  none  if  the  rice  be  not 
dry.) 

Flavor  with  nutmeg  or  vanilla. 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  mashing  the  rice 
with  the  spoon.  Smooth  it  over,  about  an  inch 
deep,  in  a  buttered  pan.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  to  get 
a  quiclj  brown  on  top.  Cut  out  diamonds,  squares, 
or  other  ceat  shapes,  and  serve  with  red  currant 
jelly  placed  tastefully  on  or  about  the  rice  cake. 


Articles  like  the  above  ought  always  be  baked  in 
bright  tin  pans.  Iron  meat  pans,  however  clean, 
generally  stain  the  under  side  and  make  the  cakes 
uneatable. 


308.      Rice  Cake,  with  Fruits. 


Prepare  the  rice  cake  of  the  foregoing  receipt;  al- 
so any  kind  of  rich,  thick,  stewed  down  fruit,  or 
compote  of  lemons  or  oranges. 

Spread  the  bottoms  of  two  bright  pudding  pans 
with  butter  and  press  on  a  coating  of  bread  crumbs; 
all  that  will  stick.  Cover  this  with  the  rice  cake 
mixture  by  spoonfuls,  not  displacing  the  crumbs. 
Spread  a  thin  layer  of  the  compote  over  that,  then 
rice  cake,  then  compote  again,  and  finish  with  rice 
on  top.  Moisten  and  smooth  over  with  a  little 
cream.  Sift  on  a  little  fine  bread  crumbs  from  a 
colander.  Bake  half  an  hour.  The  layers  should 
be  no  thicker  than  those  of  ordinary  jelly  cake. 
Turn  the  cake  out  when  done.  Serve  neat  squares 
or  diamonds  with  the  brown  bottom  side  up  and  the 
compote  syrup,  or  any  sauce  around. 

369.  

We  would  never  trouble  about  timbales  in  a  book 

of  puddings  if  the  word  was  not  a  stumbling  block 
in  the  way.  There  are  timbales  of  rice  and  sweet 
timbales  of  macaroni,  etc.,  which  in  effect  are  orna- 
mental puddings.  The  word  often  appears  in  bills- 
of-fare  when  it  means  only  rice  cakes  like  the  pre- 
ceding kinds.  Timbale  means  kettle  drum,  and  is 
in  allusion  to  the  shape  of  a  pudding  in  an  orna- 
mental pastry  case.  Suppose  you  take  some  ye^ow 
nouilles  paste  and  by  means  of  a  mould  form  a  shape 


88 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTHY  COOK, 


like  the  castle  in  chess,  anil  fill  that  with  rice  cake 
and  bake  it.     That  is  the  simplest  form. 


SBI'O.      Petites  Timbales  de  Riz. 


AUX  FRUITS 


Let  there  be  no  mystery  about  these.  They  are 
little  indiviJual  rice  cakes,  but  they  caaaot  be  de- 
scribed, only  suggested,  fjr  they  are  but  the  cook's 
notions,  and  are  more  than  chameleon  like,  they 
ehange  shape  as  well  as  color. 

They  are  of  no  consequence — on^y  passing;  fan- 
cies. They  are  unlocked  for  contingencies;  unex 
pected  circumstances;  dernier  resorts;  put  in  to  fill 
up  the  bill,  to  decorate  and  set  off  the  row  of  little 
dinner  dishes  before  the  guest.  There  are  camaos 
and  there  are  stage  scenes  laid  on  with  a  whitewash 
brush;  both  are'meritorous  in  their  place.  When 
the  cook  is  tired  of  cuttifn^  out  rice  or  farina  or  ta- 
pioca cakes  in  squares,  and  dishing  up  charottes 
with  a  spoon,  he  takes  some  means  of  giving  to  e:ich 
person  an  uncut,  untouched  and  more  or  less  deco 
rated  trifle  in  symmetrical  shape.  The  main  com 
pound  for  these  little  rice  shapes  is  already  found  in 
the  rice  cake  plain,  preceding.  A  suggestion  of  va 
riation  is  found  in  the  rice  cake  with  fruits.  Sup- 
pose  you  take  muffin  rings,  brush  them  inside  with 
butter,  coat  them  with  fine  grated  bread  crumbs, 
fill  with  rice  cake,  bake  brown  and  serve  a  green 
gage  plum  stewed  in  bright  syrup,  or  halt  an  apri 
cot,  or  three  red  cherries  with  the  thick  juice  on  top. 
Or,  instead  of  rings,  take  some  handsome  stamped 
gem  pans,  the  deeper  and  more  pyramidal  the  bet- 
ter, and  on  the  buttered  sides  place  some  shapes  cut 
with  your  fancy  vegetable  cutters  out  of  the  greenest 
candied  citron,  or  watermelon  rind;  or  else,  instead 
of  bread  crumbs,  use  finely  chopped  yolks  of  eggs; 
or,  instead  of  any  of  th^^^se,  make  some  nouillps 
paste — which  is  flour  moistened  with  yolk  of  egg, 
with  a  little  salt  and  pothing  else,  and  worked  to 
smoothness — and  cut.leives,  etc.,  out  of  that  Ttien 
place  rice  cake  round,  over  the  patterns— a  sort  of 
wall  or  casing— and  inside  fill  with  preserved  fruit, 
jam  or  conserve.  After  baking  these  may  be  turned 
out,  glazed  with  yolk  of  egg  and  milk  or  sugar,  and 
quickly  browned  again.  Sometimes  lit  ie  rice 
cakes,  not  sweetened,  are  baked  in  the  tiniest  gem 
pans  holding  scirce  a  tablespoonfu!,  and  are  served 
as  decorations  of  entrees,  and  with  fish. 

3  TI.     Plain  Boiled  Rice  Pudding. 

The  writer  has  not  found  occasion  to  be  much 
concerned  about  boiled  puddings  of  rice;  hotel  peo 
pie  who  require  anything  so  plain  being  amply  sat- 
isfied with  the  rice  prepared  for  a  vegetable  dish. 
If,  however,  the  competition  of  the  other  restaurant 
is  so  severe  that  one  must   give  good  meals  for  ten, 


or  fifteen,  or  twenty  cents,  or  if  there  is  Chinese 
help  to  be  fed,  a  boiled  rice  pudding  is  not  so  bad. 
Besides,  we  have  Dr.  Andrew  Combe's  "Physiology 
of  Digestion"  to  prove  that  it  is  the  easiest  of  digep 
tion  of  all  puddings,  and  therefore  commended  to 
dyspeptics. 

Waih  a  pint  of  rice;  mix  a  handful  or  two  of 
either  raisins,  currants  or  apples  with  it,  tie  up  in  a 
cloth  with  room  enough  to  swell  to  three  pints;  put 
on  in  cold  water  and  boil  about  an  hour.  Syrup  or 
molasses  fur  s  uce. 


If  the  foregoing  is  a  "poor  man's  pudding,"  the 
next  must  certainly  be  his  rich  relation's.  It  can 
be  hands  me'y  >urned  out  of  a  handsome  mould 
and  the  rich  custard  poured  round.  It  will  not  be 
good  unless  the  tapi -ca  be  thoroughly  s  a'  el  as  di 
rected,  and  may  take  ^  pint  more  milk;  the  re- 
ceipt is  on  the  safe  side  for  turning  out  in  good 
shape. 

Steamed  Tapioca  Puddini?,  with  Custard 
S^S.  Sauce. 

1  pound  of  tapioca 

3  pints  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  butter. 

G  yolks  of  eggs. 

8  whole  ejgs.     Salt. 

1  lemon,  juice  aad  grated  rind. 

S'oak  the  tapioca  in  most  of  the  milk  in  a  warm 
place  2  hours.  Then  boil  the  remaining  mi'k  with 
the  salt,  sugar  and  butter;  turn  iu  the  s  aked  tapi- 
oca, let  simmer  15  mi;  utes  with  the  steam  shut  in; 
ihen  belt  in  tha  eggs  and  lemon.  Butter  two 
moulds,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  steam  one  and  one- 
half  hours. 


STEAMED  SAGO  PUDDINQ. 
STEAMED  GROUND  RICE  PUDDING. 
STEAMED  FARINA  PUDDING. 

These  can  all  be  made  by  the  foregoing  receipt, 
but  of  farina  use  2  ounces  less,  as  it  absorbs  more 
liquid  than  the  other  substances. 


Enough  has  been  said  about  rice  cakes  and  tim- 
bales to  dismiss  the  subject,  but  here  is  the  sam© 
thing  done  in  tapioca. 

3T4.  

Tapioca  Cake,  "with  Apple  Jelly. 


f  pound  of  tipioca. 

3  pints  of  milk,  or  milk  and  water. 

4  ounces  ot  sugar. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

10  yolks,  or  else  3  whole  eggs. 
Orange  flavoring.    Salt. 
Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour  or  two  in  half  the  milk. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


89 


Boil  the  rest  of  the  milk  with  the  sugar  f>nd  salt  in 
it;  stir  iu  the  tapioca  and  let  cook  gently  half  an 
hour.  Then  beat  in  the  butter,  eggs  and  flavoring 
and  bake  like  rice  cake,  an  iuch  deep. 

375.    Tapioca  Custard  Pudding. 


f  pound  of  tapioca. 

8  pints  of  milk. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  butter. 

8  yolks  and 

2  whole  eggs,     Salt. 

Grated  lemon  rind  or  other  flavor. 

Sift  the  dust  from  tapioca.  Sometimes  it  is  bet- 
ter to  wash  it,  besides,  like  rice.  Soak  it  in  half 
the  milk  about  two  hours  in  a  warm  place.  Boil  the 
rest  of  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it — the  sugar  pre- 
vents burning  at  bottom — cook  the  soaked  tapioca 
in  it  about  half  an  hour.  Beat  the  eggs,  mix  all  to- 
gether ani  bake  only  till  the  puddings  are  just  set 
in  the  middle,  lest  the  custard  in  it  curdle  and  sep- 
arate instead  of  being  creamy  rich.  Any  hot,  clear, 
transparent  sauce  or  lemon  eyiup  suits,  also  brandy 
and  wine  sauces.  This  pudding  is  often  served  coM 
with  sweetened  cream.  Also  may  be  cut  cold  in 
shapes,  egged,  breaded,  and  fried  as  fritters. 

Does  it  seem  like  extravagance  to  call  for  so  many 
yolks  of  eggs  for  puddings  ?  Is  is  not.  What 
might  be  so  regarded  in  private  house  work  is  really 
the  greatest  economy  in  hotels  where  each  fresh 
meal  is  required  to  be  as  good  as  the  one  that  pre- 
ceded it,  and  the  whites  of  eggs  left  over  are  needed 
in  a  hundred  ways.  The  whites  do  no  more  good  in 
puddings  than  so  much  flour  or  starch.  The  yo!ks 
give  the  richness  and  fine  color.  Probably  at  an- 
other time  we  shall  have  a  talk  about  silver  cakes, 
snow  cakes  and  a  dozen  others  made  with  white  of 
eggs,  white  cocoanut  pies,  white  whips  and  floats, 
and  the  meringues  must  not  be  forgot. 

3  TO.  Tapioca  Custard  Meringue. 

Make  the  tapioca  pudding  preceding.  When 
baked  spread  over  the  top  some  lemon  conserve  or 
orange  marmalade.  Beat  whatever  whites  are  left 
over  to  a  froth;  add  sugar,  about  an  ounce  to  each 
white,  lightly  stirred  in,  and  vanilla  flavor.  Make 
the  top  of  the  pudding  baking-hot  again,  then  spread 
on  the  meringue  and  dry-bal  e. 


3TT,     Farina  Custard  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  milk. 

7  ounces  of  farina. 
6  ounces  of  sugar. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

8  yolks,  or  else  5  whole  eggs. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it  and  a  pinch  of 


salt.  Sprinkle  in  the  farina  dry,  beating  all  tna 
while  with  the  large  eggwhip  to  avoid  having; 
lumps  in  it,  as  if  making  mush.  Let  the  farina  cook 
slowly  half  an  hour  or  more  Farina  kettles  net 
needed  when  there  is  sugar  in  the  mixture,  and  set 
at  the  back  of  the  range.  Then  mix  in  the  butter 
and  beaten  eggs.  Bake  in  two  buttered  pans  about 
20  minutes. 

3Y8.  

Farina  Cake,  with  Quince  Jelly. 


Make  same  as  tapioca  cake;  an  ounce  less  farina 
and  no  soaking  needed. 

Farina  Cake,    with  Fruit,    Rum  Sauce. 

Raisins,  currants  and  citron  baked  in  the  farina 
cake.  Served  with  thick  syrup  containing  rum. 
Small  timbales  on  the  same  plan. 


3T».  

SAGO  PUDDINGS. 
SAGO  CAKES. 

Can  be  made  by  preceding  receipt  for  tapioca,    Ect. 
ter  to  write  them  out  if  to  be  used  for  sago. 

380,  

"Now,  Jerry,  the  bill  of  fare — what  pudding  to- 
day ?" 

"1  thought  I  would  give  you  steamed  p:und  if  that 
will  suit.'' 

"Will  suit  first  rate  if  you  don't  fail  with  it." 

"Fail  ? — fail  ? — there's  no  such  word  as  fail  I" 
*  *  * 

"Well,  Jerry,  it  is  time  to  dish  up  ihe  puddings. 
How  are  they  ?     Look  at  them." 

"Failed failed — by  the  holypoker  I" 

"Now,  Jerry,  this  is  too  much  for  human  nature. 
There  is  no  need  to  fail  with  steamed  cake-puddings. 
There  is  a  reason  for  everything,  and  pound  pud- 
ding  fails  only  because  either  there  is  too  much 
sugar  in  the  mixture  or  else  because  it  does  not  get 
done  enough.  Now  your  mixture  is  all  light  but 
your  puddings  are  not  done.  There  is  a  white, 
light  layer  on  top  where  the  steam  was  hottest,  but 
all  the  rest  is  gum  and  sugar.  Steamed  sponge 
puddings  are  the  easiest  to  cook;  they  take  from  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  upwards  according  to  size. 
Pound  puddings  come  next,  but  they  must  have  near 
two  hours,  unless  very  small.  Steamed  fruit  pud- 
dings take  much  longer.  If  you  go  to  a  high  point 
in  the  mountains  your  puddings  need  to  steam 
longer  still.  And  remember  the  water  below  must 
never  stop  boiling,  and  time  counte  nothing  if  you 
have  no  steam  up." 


Now  who  would  have  thought  there  was  another 
pudding  of  bread,  more  or  less,  lurking  back  here  ? 
gorry  they  are  so  numerous,  but  this  is  a  very  good 
one  and  steamed  puddings  are  in  demand. 


eo 


THB  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


381.     Steamed  Bread  Puddinir. 


1 J  pounds  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

1^  pound  of  sugar. 

I  pound  of  butter. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

4  whole  eggs  and 

8  yolks. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Lemon  rind  or  extract. 

Mix  the  bread  crumbs  and  sugar  together.  Put 
the  butter  in  the  milk  and  boil  them.  Pour  the 
boiling  milk  and  butter  over  the  bread  and  let  stand 
awhile  to  steep.  Beat  the  eggs  and  yolks  together 
and  mix  them  in;  the  flavoring,  baking  powder,  then 
beat  all  together  2  or  3  minutes.  Steam  an  hour  or 
little  longer  in  two  buttered  mou'ds.  Serve  with 
hard  sauce,  meringue  sauce,  butter  sauce  or  maple 
syrup.  Better  write  it  a  finer  name  on  the  bill-of- 
fare. 


38;S.    Steamed  Sponge  Pudding. 


WINE  OR  BRANDY  SAUCE. 


14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

14  ounces  of  finest  flour. 

Vanilla  flavor,  about  two  teaspoonfuls. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  in  a  kettle  half 
an  hour  by  the  clock.  You  can't  time  it  by  the  arm 
ache,  as  ten  minutes  seems  half  an  hour  that  way. 
Have  the  ingredients  all  cold  and  beat  in  a  cool 
place.  When  the  time  is  up  the  kettle  will  be  half 
full  of  a  foamy  batter.  Then  stir  in  the  flour  in 
portions.  Do  not  beat  but  stir  round  till  the  flour 
is  pretty  well  mingled  and  out  of  sight.  Add  the 
vanilla  extiact.  To  be  perfect  all  sponge  cake  ar 
tides  must  be  cooked  as  soon  as  the  batter  is  fin- 
ished. Steam  it  in  pudding  moulds,  jelly  moulds, 
melon  moulds  or  any  kind  you  like — no  matter 
about  lids — about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Whenever  any  of  these  cake  mixture  puddings 
seem  to  be  heavy  or  sticky,  provided  the  fault  is  not 
in  the  steaming,  they  may  be  corrected  next  time 
by  using  a  .trifle  less  sugar.  At  great  aUitudes 
the  sugar  has  to  be  considerably  less,  and  newly  ar- 
rived pastry  cooks  are  often  "thrown"  through  not 
understanding  or  being  willing  to  believe  it. 

383,     Steamed  Pound  Pudding. 


BRANDY,  WINE  OR  CURACOA  SAUCE. 


f  pound  of  white  sugar. 
I  pound  of  fresh  butter. 
10  eggs. 
1  pound  of  flour. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  by  warming 
and  beating.     Beat  in  the  eggs,  one  or  two  at  a  time, 


then  the  flour  in  small  portions.  To  beat  the  mix 
ture  after  flour  is  all  in  makes  the  pudding  fin« 
grained  and  whiter,  but  not  so  light.  Don't  beat  it 
much.  Steam  in  fancy  tall  moulds  if  to  go  to  table 
whole;  to  be  dished  up  in  slices  any  sort  of  cake  or 
jelly  moulds  suit. 

These  puddings  need  to  be  put  on  in  good  tight 
steamers  when  the  water  is  already  boiling,  anl  be 
kept  steaming  1|  hours,  or  longer. 

Pretty  name,  isn't  it  ?  the  next,  sultana  pudding. 
It  is  not  going  to  be  told  here  how  it  compares  in 
goodness  with  the  queen  pudding  which  ve  had 
away  back,  because  a  comparison  between  a  queen 
and  a  sultana  would  be  odious.  However,  this  is  a 
white  rose. 


384. 


Sultana  Pudding. 


RED  WINE  SAUCE. 


^  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

^  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

^  pound  of  white  of  eggs  (9  whites). 

^  cupful  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

^  cup  of  brandy. 

1  pound  of  sultana  raisins. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  as  for  pound 
cake.  Add  the  whites  same  way — not  previously 
beaten.  Then  mix  in  the  baking  powder,  after  that 
the  flour,  milt ,  brandy,  raisins.  Steam  in  moulds 
from  1^  to  2  hours.  The  wine  sauce  served  with 
this  pudding  should  have  a  lemon  cut  up  in  it. 
Raspberry  vinegar  is  an  excellent  sauce  for  puddings 
of  the  above  description. 

385.  

Steamed  Ooccanut  Pudding. 

WITH  ORANGE  JELLY. 


The  same  mixture  as  the  preceding  with  ^  pound 
of  cocoanut  and  some  lemon  extract  instead  of  rais- 
ins  and  brandy.  Almonds,  citron,  cherries  and 
other  fruits  can  be  used  in  like  manner. 

The  same  useful  mixture  also  makes  a  good  white 
cake,  white  raisin  cake,  etc. 

There  is  something  almost  apalling  in  the  vaulting 
ambition  ofthese  cooks  when  they  set  themselves  to 
naming  puddings.  How  blest,  then,  is  our  lot, 
that  for  the  purposes  of  this  writing  we  are  without 
the  bounds  of  Great  Britain  and  of  Canada,  other- 
wise we,  the  reader  and  the  scribe,  should  inevitably 
encounter  and  have  to  pay  attentions  t ),  let  us  see — 
"Her  Majesty's  pudding,''  "Empress  Josephine's 
pudding,"  "Queen  Mab's  pudding  " 

This  last  is  cosmopolitan,  however,  and  is  a  nice 
enough  little  pudding,  but  too  fairy  like  to  be  eaten 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


91 


wit-h  a  knife  and    fork.       There  is  good  reason  fo 
believing  that  it  is  not  a   Spenserite    at  all,  but  a 
tawny   Italian  cream  pretending  to  come  accredited 
from 

"The  court  of  Mab  and  of  the  faery  king." 
Then  there  would  be  "Princess  Louise's  pudding," 
"Beatrice  pudding,"  and  Marie  Stuart's  and  Sir 
Watkins'.  Besides,  there  would  be  shadows  in  the 
distance  of  the  illustrious  Lord  Dundreary's  pud- 
ding and  the  honorable  Earl  of  Flaxton's.  So  every 
cloud  has  its  silver  lining.  We  might  be  worse  off. 
As  it  is,  we  already  have  the  queen  rose  of  the  rose 
bud  gar — I  mean  we  already  have  the  "queen  of  pud- 
dings" and  the  Sultana Scheherezade's  fa v — atleast, 
that  is,  we  have  a  very  white  sultaoa  raisin  pudding 
with  carmine  chee — that  is  to  say,  with  carmine  col- 
ored sauce;  we  have  the  king  pudding  that  rules  the 
British  roost,  laurel  crowned,  with  all  his  fierce  snap- 
dragon flames  around  him;  the  socialist  Jack  Cade  of 
puddings  is  coming  on  his  way,  and  how  do  we  know 
but  that  to  meet  and  dispute  with  gi'eat  Haggis,  the 
highland  chief,  there  will  arise  from  our  steaming 
cauldron  a  stalwart  Tuscarora  chief,  in  a  yellow 
mantle,  with  silk  and  tassel,  just  as  be  won  over 
his  Minnehaha  long  ago,  whatever  her  name  may 
have  been  then.  Meantime  make  way  for  the  great; 
here  comes  imperial  pudding.  It  is  still  a  question 
whether  this  should  be  regarded  as  a  1'  imperial  or 
a  r  imperiale,  but  as  pudding  is  masculine  in 
French  probably  it  is  imperial.  No  doubt  but  in 
this  case  the  empress  h  id  it  made  to  suit  the  empe- 
ror, and  not  to  suit  herself,  which  makes  it  all  the 
more  remarkable. 


380.  Imperial  Steamed  Puddingr. 

14  ounces  of  butter. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
11  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

Lemon  and  nutmeg  extracts. 

I  pound  of  almonds. 

i^  pound  of  citron. 

^  pound  of  raisics. 

Mix  the  former  ingredients  as  if  for  pound  cake. 
Sca'd,  peel  and  chop  the  almonds,  cut  the  citron  in 
sbreds  and  take  the  seeds  out  of  the  raisins.  Before 
adding  the  fruit  to  the  cake  mixture  dust  it  well 
with  2  ounces  more  flour. 

Steam  in  ornamental  moulds  about  2  J  hours    Lem 
on,  brandy,  wine,  meringue  or  sabayon  sauce. 


Steamed  Fruit  Pudding. 
38T.  Pudding. 


Pound  Fruit 


14  ounces  of  butter. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
11  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground  spioes. 


1  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 

^  cup  of  brandy. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

^  pounl  of  citron. 

The  first  four  articles  are  to  be  mixed  first,  as  us- 
ual for  cake,  then  the  others  added,  not  forgetting 
to  dust  the  fruit  well  wi'h  flour. 

It  is  one  cf  the  most  satisfactory  puddings  to  make 
for  hotel  use;  being  reaUy  a  good  plum  pudding  to 
replace  the  boiled,  which  requires  twice  as  much 
time,  Steam  these  fully  3  hour?;  longer  if  in  large 
moulds. 

388.  

Individual  Steamed  Puddicgs. 

Steam  any  of  the  foregoing  varieties,  and  any  oth- 
er kinds  made  of  cake  mixtures  in  eg?  cups.  They 
rise  rounded  on  top  and  do  not  fall  like  so.ifiles. 
From  30  minutes  to  one  hour  is  required  for  steam- 
ing, according  to  the  lind,  sponge  puddings  being 
soonest  done.  In  restaurants  they  are  commonly 
served  in  the  cups  with  sauce  in  a  little  pitcher 
separate;  but  may  be  turned  out  and  served  in 
saucers  as  well. 


389.  Steamed  Cabinet  Pudding. 

2  quarts  of  slices  of  cake. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

^  pound  of  citron  shred  fine. 

3  pints  of  milk. 
8  eggs. 

^  cupful  of  red  currant  jelly. 

Sponge  cake  is  best.  A  2  quart  milk  pan  will 
measure  the  slices. 

Use  shallow  pudding  moulds  having  lids.  Stick 
the  shreds  of  citron  around  the  insides  on  a  coating 
of  butter.  Spread  one  side  of  the  cake  slices  very 
fhinly  with  butter,  the  other  side  with  jelly,  and 
pile  them  in  «hc  mou'ds,  not  to  fit  tight.  Beat  the 
milk  and  eg^s  together — no  sugar  needed— pour 
over  the  cake;  when  absorbed  fill  up  again,  fteam 
1^  hours.  Turn  the  puddings  out  of  the  mouldsand 
serve  whether  who^e  (r  in  slices  with  either  merin* 
gue  sauce  or  sauce  ecumante  poured  over. 

3»0.  

Individual  Cabinet  Puddings 


The  same  ingredients  and  amounts  as  the  preced- 
ing. Cut  the  slices  of  cake  wiih  a  small  round,  oc- 
tagonal or  scalloped  cutter,  spread  them  with  but. 
ter  and  jelly  and  pile  them  in  custard  cups.  Fill 
with  the  mixed  eggs  and  milk  and  refill  when  the 
first  is  soaked  in  Steam  half  au  hour  with  a  clo  h 
over  the  s' earner  under  the  lid  to  prevent  diopping 
of  water.  Place  a  spoonfu!  of  meringue  on  top  of 
each  one  when  they  are  turned  out  of  the  cups,  and 
brown  them  slightly  with  a  red  hot  salamander  or 
shovel  held  over. 


92 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTSY  COOK. 


391 ,     Steamed  Brandy  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  slices  of  cake. 

^  pint  of  braody. 

^  pint  of  finely  chopped,  seedless  raisins. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

2  J  pints  of  milk. 

8  eggs. 

J  pound  of  almonds,  blanched  and  split. 

Line  the  moulds  with  the  split  almonds  stuck  to  a 
thin  coating  of  butter.  Spread  the  miuced  raisins 
upon  the  slices  of  cake;  fill  up  the  moulds,  sprink- 
ling in  the  brandy  by  spoonfuls,  and  the  rest  of  the 
butter  in  bits.  Then  beat  the  eggs  and  milk  together, 
pour  in  all  the  moulds  will  hold  and  the  cake  will 
absorb.     Steam  1|  hours. 

SOS.  

Individual  Macaroon  Puddings. 


Have  as  many  egg  or  custard  cups  as  there  will 
probably  be  orders,  about  40,  and  brush  the  insides 
with  melted  butter.  PI  ice  in  the  bottom  of  each  a  small 
round  sponge  drop.  Cover  that  with  a  thin  layer  of 
finely  chopped  raisins;  ont  hat  place  a  maciroon  and 
in  that  way  fill  the  cup.  The  caVes  must  be  sp'it  if 
not  thin.  Make  a  rich  cus'ard  with  7  eggs  beaten 
n  a  quart  of  thin  cream  and  2  ounces  of  sugar. 
Fill  in  with  a  spoon  all  the  cakes  will  absorb.  Steam 
half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  cups  with  whipped 
cream,  sweetened  and  flavored,  piled  on  top. 

SOS.  

Pineapple  Puddings  Souffles. 

2  pounds  of  pineapple. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  best  butter. 

^  pint,  scant,  of  the  pineapple  juice. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
16  eggs. 

Grate  the  pineapple  if  fresh,  if  canned  mash  fine 
as  possible  adding  the  sugar  at  last  to  assist  in  re- 
ducing it  to  pulp.  Then  stir  the  pulp  isith  the 
sugar  and  butter  in  it  over  the  fire.  Mix  the  starch 
with  the  juice  and  add  to  the  fruit,  and  let  it  thick- 
en, after  which  add  8  yolks  ot  eggs,  beat  them  in 
and  let  all  cook  5  to  10  minutes  longer,  and  then 
set  the  mixture  away  to  cool. 

Then  beat  the  remaining  8  yolks  in  a  bowl  with  a 
Dover  egg  beater.  Whip  the  16  whites  to  a  firm 
froth  that  will  not  fall  out  of  the  bowl  upside  down, 
and  stir  in  first  the  yolks  and  then  the  whites, 
lightly  and  without  beating  the  mixture  at  all. 
Bake  as  soon  as  made  in  about  40  custard  cups, 
buttered,  or  in  silver  scallops  or  shells,  or  else  in 
paper  cases.  Ten  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven  is 
the  time  required  to  bake.  Dredge  powdered 
sugar  on  top  before  removing   quite  from  the  oven. 

The  preceding  receipt  will  answer  as  well  for  sev 
eral  other  varieties  as  if  a  column  or  two  of  repetitions 


were  written.  Pears,  quinces,  apples,  bananas,  per- 
haps other  dry  fruits  may  be  used  as  well  as  pine- 
apple. The  starch  is  to  counteract  the  juiciness; 
with  certain  mealy  kinds  of  apples  it  would  not  be 
needed.  Bread  or  cracker  crumbs  have  the  same 
effect.  8  yolks  are  cooked  in  the  mix'ure  and  8 
well  beaten  are  added  raw.  The  whites  must  be 
beaten  quite  firm,  and  a  wire  whisk  is  the  best  to  use 
for  that  purpose.  The  mixture  when  finished  is  as 
light  and  foamy  as  sponge  cake  batter.  It  rises  and 
bakes  cream  color  in  the  cups  or  cases  Paper  casts 
should  be  buttered  icside  and  half  baked  befoie  be- 
ing filled,  and  should  be  filled  to  the  top  to  lo^jk 
well  when  done.  Caiefully  wipe  the  cut  sides  of 
cups  before  baking.  These  little  fruit  puff  pud- 
dings may  be  liked  better  with  the  addition  of  plain, 
thick  cream  for  sauce.  Some  people  would  add  nut- 
meg or  cinnamon  cr  bratidy  to  the  composition  of 
apple  puffs.  Any  of  these  mixtures  left  over  will  do 
to  fill  tarts  in  patty  pans.  These  are  no  better  than 
other  puddings.     Ihey  are  a^l  good. 

S04.  

Pineapple  Sponge  Puddings. 


INDIVIDUAL. 


Make  the  precedir.g  pineapple  souffle  mixture  in 
all  respects  as  directed,  and  bake  in  deep  tin  gem 
pans  or  dariole  moulds  well  buttered.  Bake  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes,  keep  hot,  light  and  spongy  as  possi- 
ble without  drying  them.  Take  out  wi  h  a  small 
knife  and  dish  up  in  saucers  with  cream  sauce. 


There  need  be  nothing  wasted.  The  two  forego- 
ing compositions  and  the  one  to  follow  all  make  nice 
cream  pies  if  diluted  with  a  pint  of  milk,  or  with  a 
quart  of  milk  and  2  eggs. 


S05.     Lemon  Sponge  Pudding 

A  SOUFFLE  TO  BE  SERVED  WHOLE. 

2  pounds  of  grated  ripe  apples. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  lemons,  grated  rind  of  all,  juice  of  2. 

^  cup  of  milk. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch  or  flour. 
16  eggs. 

Make  according  to  directions  for  the  pineapple 
souffles.  Bake  in  a  silver  dish  or  mould  that  will 
hoM  3  quarts  Pin  a  band  of  buttered  paper  around 
the  moull  to  make  it  higher.  Fill  with  the  lemon 
sponge  m'xture  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 
Dredge  vanilla  flavored  sugar  on  top  in  the  oven. 
Take  off"  the  paper  just  before  sending  to  the  table. 
Sauce  doree,  or  butter  sauce  with  nutmeg  or  cream. 
It  can  of  course  be  baked  in  individual  style  as  well 
aa  the  others. 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


In  old  times,  a  -very  long  while  ago,  there  lived  a 
race  of  hotel  cooks  who  ran  in  such  a  very  little 
narrow  rut,  and  had  such  very  small  resources  in 
their  trade  that  when  they  had  made  about  three 
diflFerent  puddings  they  were  at  their  wit's  end,  and 
used  to  have  to  butt  their  heads  against  the  wall  to 
shake  up  their  memories,  so  they  would  know  what 
on  earth  to  make  next.  Then  they  would  recollect 
something  to  make  which  required  almonds,  raisins 
and  citron;  but  when  they  ran  to  the  hotel  store- 
room they  found  none  of  those  articles  in  stock. 
Then  they  had  to  butt  their  heads  against  the  wall 
again  harder,  till  they  could  think  of  something  else, 
and  that  would  require  apples.  But  the  store  room 
would  be  bare  of  apples  also.  And  then  they  had 
to  go  and  find  a  harder  place  in  the  wall  and  butt 
their  heads  against  it  harder  and  longer  every  time. 
That  was  in  the  dark  ages.  What  charity  it  would 
have  been,  and  what  suffering  it  would  have  pre- 
vented if  some  person  had  stood  up  and  told  them 
what  they  might  do  in  the  case  of  a  short  store- 
room. How  if  they  had  no  bread  they  could  use 
cake;  if  they  had  no  yolks  of  eggs  they  could  make 
a  pudding  of  the  whites;  if  they  had  no  eggs  at  all 
nor  milk  they  could  do  just  as  well  with  a  pudding 
that  would  be  ruined  if  even  milk  or  eggs  came 
near  it;  and  if  they  had  no  pineapples  they  could  do 
Tery  well  indeed  with  pumpkins. 


Pumpkin  pudding  must  be  older  than  pumpkin 
pie,  because  pumpkin  pie  is  pumpkin  pudding  over 
the  water.  The  first  appearance  of  pumpkin  in  his- 
tory is  in  the  story  of  a  young  person  named  Cin 
derella,  who,  finding  her  fine  coach  was  changed 
again  into  nothing  but  a  hateful  pumpkin  that  came 
rolling  up  to  the  door,  felt  vexed,  and  thought  she 
would  make  a  pudding  of  it. 

300.  

New  England  Pumpkin  Pudding. 

3  pounds  of  dry  stewed  pumpkin. 

^  pound  of  sugar  or  maple  syrup. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

1  pint  of  cream. 
10  eggs. 

^  a  nutmeg  grated. 

^  teaspoonful  of  grated  cinnamon. 

Steam  the  pumpkin  and  mash  the  required  amount 
through  a  colander,  as  dry  as  possible.  It  is  gener- 
ally well  worth  while  to  stew  down  the  pumpkin 
with  the  sugar  and  butter  in — which  prevents  burn- 
ing— till  it  has  become  thick  and  transparent.  Then 
add  the  cream  and  eggs  well  beaten  together,  and  the 
spices.  Bake  in  two  buttered  pudding  pans  about 
half  an  hour.  Is  best  when  just  done,  but  good 
either  hot  or  cold.  Brandy,  rum  or  wine  are  some- 
times mixed  in;  but  not  necessary. 


Squash  pudding  can  be  made  by  the  foregoing  re- 
ceipt.     Once  and  again  I  made  the  following  for  a 


crowd  of  passengers  aground  on  a  steamboat  up  tbr 
Arkansas,  and  they  were  glad  1  could. 

39T.  

Baked  Millet  Seed  Pudding. 


1  ^  pounds  of  millet  seed. 

2  quarts  of  milk  and  water. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

5  eggs.     Little  salt. 

1  quart  more  milk  to  mix  up. 

Nutmeg  flavor. 

Wash  the  millet  seed  and  let  it  cook  at  the  back 
of  the  range  about  3  hours,  in  the  2  quarts  of  milk 
and  water;  Then  mash  it  a  little  and  mix  in  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients.  Raisins,  currants,  etc., 
may  be  added.  The  preceding  is  a  trifle  richer  in 
eggs  than  the  steamboat  pudding  was.  Syrup  for 
sauce. 


398.        Baked  Yam  Pudding. 

Sweet  potatoes  will  do,  but  the  large  yams  grown 
in  the  sandy  soils  of  Louisiana  and  Texas  are  better 
for  mealiness,  and  have  less  of  the  potato  flavor. 
1^-  pounds  of  potato. 

I  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 
12  eggs. 

I  pint  of  brandy. 

^  pint  of  sherry. 

1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  yams  or  sweet  potatoes  after  paring,  in 
salted  water,  and  mash  the  required  amount  of  dry 
puree  through  a  colander.  Mix  in  the  butter  whi'e 
still  warm,  then  the  sugar,  liquorand  vanilla.  Sep- 
arate the  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  into  the  mixture,  and 
the  whites  after  whipping  to  a  firm  froth.  Bake  in 
buttered  pans  about  half  an  hour.  Lemon  syrup 
or  wine  or  brandy  sauce. 


Common  potatoes  that  are  very  good  and  mealy 
can  be  used  in  the  preceding  manner,  with  more 
sugar  and  less  wine. 

399.     Steamed   Yam  Pudding. 


1  pound  of  potato, 
^  pound  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  flour. 

3  ounces  of  sugar. 
8  yolks  of  eggs. 

4  whites. 

J  cup  of  brandy. 

Vanilla  flavoring. 

Pare  and  boil  the  yam  or  sweet  potatoes  in  salted 
water.  iVJash  the  required  amount  through  a 
strainer.  Add  all  the  ingredients  except  the  whites, 
beat  well,  whip  the  whites    to  a    froth  and   stir  in 


94 


THE  AMEBICAN  PASTRV  COOK. 


gently.    Steam  in  two  small  moulds  1  hour.    Lemon 
syrup  sauce. 
400. 


Baked  Cracked  Wheat  Puddingr. 


2  heaping  quarts  of  cracked  wheat,  already  well 
cooked  and  dry. 

6  ounces  of  butter, 
i^  pound  of  sugar. 

3  pints  of  milk. 

6  eggs  (or  8  yolks). 

Cinnamon  extract  or  grated  nutmeg. 

The  cracked  wheat  must  be  dry,  else  use  a  pint 
less  milk.  Thoroughly  mix  all,  the  butter  first 
while  the  wheat  is  hot.  Bake  in  two  buttered  pans 
about  half  an  hour.  Vanilla  transparent  sauce  or 
almost  any  other  kind. 

401.  

Brown  Cracked  Wheat  Pudding".    West 
Point  Pudding.     Graham  Pudding. 


2  heaping  quarts  of  cracked  wheat  mush. 

^  pound  of  molasses  (a  small  cup). 

6  ounces  of  butter  or  chopped  suet. 

6  eggs. 

li^  pints  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

^  pound  of  raisins. 

.Mix  and  beat  all  the  ingredients  together,  except 
raisins,  the  beaten  eggs  to  be  added  last  Strew  the 
raisins  on  top  in  the  pans;  they  sink  if  stirred  in. 
Bake  an  hour.      Maple  syrup  with  butter  for  sauce. 


One  large  pint  of  cracked  wheat  raw  will  ma^e 
the  above  amount.  The  mush  is  expected  to  be  dry, 
else  use  less  milk  or  more  eggs.  The  pudding  has 
to  be  apparently  quite  fluid  when  put  in  the  oven 
but  comes  out  firm  enough.  When  either  of  the  pre 
ceding  puddings  are  to  be  made,  extra  wheat  should 
be  put  on  for  the  breakfast  mush,  to  secure  the 
benefit  of  the  three  hours  cooking.  When  the  mush 
happens  to  be  cold,  mash  it  with  the  milk  made  hot, 
so  as  to  have  no  lumps.  Those  are  favorite  pud- 
dings and  worth  attention. 


Speaking'of  those  titled  personages  brings  to  mind 
the  Marchioness.  Dickens'  Marchioness  and  Dick 
Swiveller.  We  have  particular  business  with  Dick 
Swiveller,  for  he  must  have  been  the  author  and 
originator  of  the  word  duflF,  as  applied  to  pudding 
Else  whence  comes  duflF  ?  It  is  a  word  severely  let 
alone  by  many  people  under  the  impression  that  it 
is  slang;  but  slang  is  evanescent,  this  word  is  stable 
and  permanent.  It  cannot  be  even  a  vulgarism,  for 
it  permeates  all  through  H.  B.  M's.  most  respect 
able  army  and  navy  as  well  as  the  U.  S's.  Mid- 
shipman Easy  undoubtedly  used  the  word  duflf  for 
pudding,  and  the  entire  crew  of  H  M.  S,  Pinafore 
follow  the  same  practice.  It  is  simply  a  cockney- 
ism,  and  cockneyisms  extend  all  over  the  world.  So 


the  Greenwich  pensioners  and  the  Chelsea  pension- 
ers; the  Woolwich  dock  yard  hands;  the  sailors  on 
the  high  seas;  the  blue-coat  children  of  charity 
marching  down  the  streets  and  thoroughfares  which 
Dickens  has  made  familiar,  all  have  their  duflf  days 
— suet  duflf,  currant  duflf,  plain  duflf,  plum  duflf 
Great  days  are  the  days  marked  by  pluoi  duflf !  But 
they  are  not  all.  Thous  nds  of  fiictory  operatives, 
thousands  of  railroad  constructors  of  British,  Cana- 
dian, Australian  and  American  railways  all  own  a 
loving  allegiance  to  King  Duflf !  Now  who  will  pre 
sume  to  laugh  at  Duflf,  with  such  a  followiag,  a  new 
Jack  Cade  though  he  may  be?  We  shall  do  far  bet- 
ter to  discuss  his  merits,  as  the  following  pages  are 
intended,  not  only  Duflf  proper  but  his  family  and 
followers.  But  being  but  a  new-comer,  compara- 
tively, taking  the  place  of  old  pudding,  whence 
came  the  word.  Did  not  some  small  wit,  such  as  we 
see  in  Thackeray's  barrooms  in  the  Newcomes,  pre. 
tending  the  pudding  was  not  cooked  enough,  call 
for  more  dough  ?  And  did  not  another  smallwit 
say  if  e  n  o-u  g-h  spelt  enuflf,  d-o-u-g-h  spelt  duflf? 
and  they  had  had  enuflf  duflf.  But  this  would  never 
have  gone  abroad  if  Dick  SwiveUer  had  not  been 
there.  He  was  a  little  stage  struck  and  very  popu- 
lar at  his  boarding  house.  He  had  taken  the  Mar* 
chioness  to  the  theatre  the  night  before,  and  on  that 
day  they  took  a  sumptuous  dinner  at  a  London  cheap 
boarding  house.  So  when  it  came  to  calling  for  the 
pudding  he  remembered  the  smallwits  and  shouted 
to  the  waiter 

"Lay  on,  Mack— Duflf,  and  dumb  be  he  that  first 
cries,  hold,  enough  !" 

Poor  Dick  !  he  is  gone  now.  But  duflf  is  all  over 
the  world.  In  the  copper  mines  of  Lake  Superior, 
and  in  the  carbonate  mines  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
they  call  for  duflf  as  glib'y  as  on  board  the  Alaska 
whalers;  and  in  all  those  places  all  our  fine  pud 
dings  would  be  called  duflf  just  the  same 

Infantine   pudd'n;  feminine  pudding;  masculine 
duflf. 

But 

•'Quantum  suf 
Ficit  of  duflf." 


Yet  here  he  comes.  Shake  him  heartily.  He  is 
no  popinjay  "perfumed  like  a  milliner,"  with  flum- 
meries, frills  and  furbelows.  He  is  an  athlete  in 
athletic  garb;  not  now  in  fighting  trim,  but  mellow 
with  doing  good;  his  countenance  shining  and  his 
sides  shaking  with  fatness.  Is  he  rough  and  plain? 
But  think  how  he  goes  into  the  convalescent  wards; 
the  workhouses;  the  almshouses,  the  veteran  re. 
treats,  the  charity  scho^-ls,  the  penitentiaries,  the 
very  hulks,  and  they  all  smile  to  see  him  come. 
And  what  might  not  happen  in  barracks  army  and 
navy  training  scl'ools  in  camp  and  on  the  sea,  were 
the  regular  weekly  visits  of  this  potentate  arbitrarily 
forbidden  ?      Athlete,  did  we  say  ?     Why,  bless  u8, 


THE  AMEBICAN  FASTB7  COOK. 


96 


•'things  are  not  what  they  seem;"  how  do  we  know 
but  he  is  an  Atlas,  and  on  Lis  shoulders  he  is  bear 
ing  up  empires  ? 

If  you  had  not  been  forewarned  to  treat  him 
knightly,  you  might  not  have  suspected  that  this 
following  is  King  Duff. 

408.  Plain  Boiled  Suet  Pudding. 

'2  pounds  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  suet. 

IJ  pints  of  water. 

A  large  teaspoonful  of  salt.  • 

Chop  the  suet,  not  too  fine,  and  rub  it  into  the  flour. 
Mix  with  the  water.  It  makes  a  soft  dough.  Beat 
it  thoroughly  with  a  spoon.  Put  it  in  a  conical  or  fun- 
nel-shaped pudding  bag,  previously  wetted  and 
floured,  and  boil  about  three  hours.  The  water 
should  be  boiling  when  the  pudding  is  put  in  and 
not  allowed  to  stop.  The  suet  makes  the  pudding 
quite  light  and  rich.    Eat  with  butter  and  syrup. 


40S. 


Currant  Suet  Roll, 


IJ  pounds  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

1  pound  of  currants  or  raisins. 

1  pint  of  water. 

Salt. 

Mix  altogether.  Make  the  dough  into  two  long 
rolls,  solid,  tie  up  in  cloths  and  boil  two  hours.  The 
softer  the  dough  can  be  to  be,  handled  at  all,  the 
lighter  the  pudding  will  be. 


404.  English  Suet  Pudding. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

f  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

1  pound  of  white  sugar. 

1  pound  of  either  raisins  or  currants. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  above  together  dry,  then  add 

1  pint  of  milk. 

2  eggs. 

A  small  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Stir  all  thoroughly  together.  Boil  in  pudding 
bags  4  hours. 

More  eggs  in  this  pudding  injures  it.  Can  be 
made  without  any.  Butter  and  sugar,  cream  sauce, 
or  syrup,  or  any  kind  of  pudding  sauce  suits. 

405.  Boiled  Cinnamon  Pudding. 


A  considerable  variation  of  the  preceding  pudding 
is  made  by  adding  to  it  1  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
ground  cinnamon — makes  it  of  a  pinkish  color. 
Ground  ginger  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  Give 
all  these  puddings  room  to  swell  and  become  light 
when  tying  the  pudding  bag. 


Jack  Cade  Duff's  relatives  moving  in  the  highest  so- 
ciety, and  presently  they  will  be  found  next  of  kin 
to  old  plum  pudding  himself. 

40G.       Boiled  Spice  Pudding. 

WITH  RUM  SAUCE. 


Not  a  half  dozen  degrees  removed  and  we  find 


A  brown  suet  pudding  with  molasses  and  spices. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

f  pound  of  chopped  suet. 

1  pound  of  molasses. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

1  smaU  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

2  eggs. 

Mingle  the  dry  articles  together  first,  then  the 
fluids  poured  in  the  middle,  stir  up.  Boil  4  hours 
or  longer.  Transparent  sauce  with  rum,  brandy  or 
wine. 

The  next  is  a  flaxen  blonde,  that  will  dispute  for 
supremacy  with  the  highest. 

40t.  

Boiled  Lemon  Pudding.     English. 


A  lemon  suet  pudding,  pale  yellow,  rich. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  suet  chopped  fine. 

1  pound  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

I2  pound  of  white  sugar. 

4  lemons. 

4  eggs. 
2  pints  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  level  teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Make  the  bread  crumbs  fine  either  by  grating  or 
jutting  in  thinnest  slices  and  squares  across.  Mix 
all  the  dry  articles  together  except  sod  i  and  saH, 
which  dissolve  in  the  milk.  Grate  the  lemon  rinds  in. 
Mix  up  with  the  milk  and  eggs.  Squeeze  in  the 
lemon  juice  at  last.  Tie  up  in  2  pudding  c'otbs, 
wetted  and  floured,  and  boil  3  hours.  Hard  sauce 
cream  sauce,  golden  sauce  or  wine. 


The  missing  link  in  this  evolution  of  puddings 
from  duff  to  English  plum  is  Eve's  pudding,  which 
can  be  found  easily  some  distance  back,  and  thence 
back  to  the  place  of  beginning  at  plum  pudding 
corner. 


Now  if  it  were  right  and  proper  or  even  allowable 
to  base  an  hypothesis  upon  pudding,  we  should  say 
that  the  great  mistake  of.  Bulwer's  life  was  in  wish- 
ing that  his  countrymen  were  Frenchmen  and  in 
keeping  them  constantly  remin  led  of  his  wish;  and 
the  great  mistake  of  Dickens'  life  was  in  sneering  at 
Americans  fur  not  being  English  Dickens  was  for- 
given because  of  his   world-wide  Anglo-Saxonism; 


96 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Bulwer  retains  his  hold  only  by  sheer  strength; 
through  the  polish  and  exact  fit  of  his  work,  not 
through  love  or  indulgence  Dickens  was  English 
even  to  the  chops  and  tomato  sauce  of  Pickwick  and 
all  the  little  bread  and  cheese  and  kisses  repasts  of  his 
people.  Bulwer  sneered  at  the  national  Yorkshire 
pudding,  and  blackberry  pudding,  and  boiled  veal, 
and  he  is  not  popular.  Hotel  keepers  are  mindful 
of  the  dread  warning.  When  all  nations  and  peo- 
ples shall  t|tye  come  to  think  alike  and  eat  alike, 
then  the  i^»ims  of  the  universal  peace  society  will 
be  realized  and  there  will  be  an  universal  language. 
In  the  meantime  English  inn  keepers  go  on  provid- 
ing roast  beef  with  Yorkshire  pudding;  pease  pud- 
ding; boiled  apple  dumplings  and  tea  and  toast;  and 
American  hotel  keepers  doing  business  for  profit 
keep  up  the  supply  of  ham  and  eggs,  oyster  soup, 
turkey  with  cranberry  sauce,  pumpkin  pie  and 
mince  pie,  and  cofiFee  and  Parker  House  rolls  All 
easy  enough,  and  no  need  of  stroking  the  fur  the 
wrong  way, 

408.      Yorkshire  Pudding. 


f  pound  of  flour. 

3  pints  of  milk. 

2  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 
^  6  eggs.    Salt. 

^  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Have  the  milk  not  too  cold,  else  it  sets  the  butter. 
Mix  the  flour  with  it  by  degrees,  free  from  lumps. 
Add  butter,  salt,  powder,  the  eggs  well  beaten  and 
beat  up  all  thoroughly.  Butter  a  baking  pan  and 
make  it  warm  in  the  oven.  Pour  in  the  batter  less 
than  an  inch  in  depth.  Bake  15  minutes,  or  till 
lightly  browned.  "When  the  pudding  is  made  with 
water  instead  of  milk  add  a  spoonful  of  golden  syrup 
to  cause  it  to  brown  quickly.  If  made  without  the 
butter  it  will  puff  up  at  the  sides,  but  soon  falls  and 
becomes  tough. 


On  the  twentieth  day  of  August,  eighteen  hun- 
dred and  fifty-nine,  in  the  heighth  of  the  Pike's 
Peak  gold  excitement  in  this  country,  Yorkshire 
pudding  was  served  for  dioner  in  the  palace  of 
Prince  Frederick  William  of  Prussia.  It  is  best  to 
be  chronologically  particular  in  noting  these  histo 
rical  events,  and  this  we  know  was  a  fact,  for  we 
have  the  printed  menu  with  the  royal  crown  and 
the  date  upon  it,  just  as  we  have  another,  showing 
that  on  the  6th  day  of  July,  1868,  His  serene  High- 
ness, the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  entertained  Prince  Je 
rome  Bonaparte,  where  was  served  : 

Truffle  omelet;  poissons  frits\  (doesn't  say  what 
kind  of  fried  fish,  but  doubtless  from  the  Bosphorus.) 
courgea  farcies;  (stufi'ed  Jonah's  gourds);  beurek, 
(wasn't  that  nice?)  bi/tecks aux pommes;  (the  potatoss 
were    a    la'  parisienne,  of  course);  haricots  verts; 


(those  ubiqutous  snap  beans  !)  guephte;  (don't  you 
wish  you  had  some  ?)  gelee  au  marasquin;  visnali; 
ekmek.  That  caps  the  climax!  Though  it  is  not  all 
the  biil-of  fare,  only  about  two  thirds 

However,  we  were  trying  to  say  that  while  we 
know  by  the  documents  that  Yorkshire  pudding  was 
served  at  the  palace  as  stated,  the  other  matter 
which  we  know  quite  as  well,  yet  cannoc  demon- 
strate, is  that  the  cooks  there  separated  the  eggs  and 
made  the  pudding  magiificent  by  beating  the  whiies 
to  a  firm  froth  and  stirring  them  in  immediately 
before  baking.     This  is  the  way  the  line  reads  : 

"Roast  beef  a  TAnglaise— York-Pudding  ''  And 
it  is  preserved  in  the  "^cuisine  classique.*' 


But  it  is  not  the  Yorkshire  pudding  they  long  for 
so  much.  On  these  cruel  cold  days,  when  even  the 
wild  animals  hedge  up  close  to  the  cosy  settlements 
and  the  birds  find  wondrous  attractions  about  the 
kitchen  door  steps,  you  may  see  poor,  huugry  chil. 
dren  flattening  their  noses  against  cook  shop  and 
restaurant  windows,  gazing,  when  the  inside  steam 
allows,  upon  the  luscious  puddings,  and  fain  would 
fill  their  bellies  with  the  crusts  that  sticV  to  the 
sides  of  the  pans  and  no  man  gives  unto  them.  They 
are  huddle  1  in  remnants  of  old  shawls  and  cast  off 
coats,  twice  too  big,  and  dragging  on  the  ground, 
their  toes  have  a  too  close  acquaintance  with  the 
snow  and  mire,  and  all  doors  are  shut.  It  is  not 
the  Yorkshire  pudding  that  they  wish  so  much,  a'l 
swimming  in  rich  gravy  though  it  be,  because  that 
is  connected  with  the  thought  of  a  piece  of  brown, 
fat  roast  beef,  and  their  thoughts  dare  notmou:.t  so 
high;  but  the  pudding  beside  it,  the  batter  pudding 
with  fat  in  the  hollows  and  raisins  snuggling  close 
together  by  twos  and  threes  in  the  rich  dimples. 
Just  this  square  or  that,  and  no  man  gives  unto 
them, 

4015.         Batter   Pudding. 

WITH  RAISINS. 


1^  pounds  of  flour. 

3  quarts  of  milk  or  water. 

4  large  basting-spoons  of  butter,  melted. 
2  large  basting  spoons  of  golden  syrup. 

12  eggs.     Salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  of  seedless  raisins. 

Mix  up  as  you  would  batter  cakes,  wetting  the 
flour  gradually  to  have  no  lumps;  the  milk  tepid, 
the  butter  melted,  the  eggs  well  beaten  and  powder 
and  sjrup  last.  Pour  into  2  buttered  pans  made 
warm  an  inch  deep,  and  sprinkle  the  raisins  all 
over  Bake  about  20  minutes,  or  till  light  brown. 
Serve  in  squares  with  lemon  syrup  or  any  puHding 
sauce. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


G'7 


410.       Baked  Batter  Pudding. 


WITH  APPLES. 


The  preceding,  with  2  quarts  of  apples  in  quar- 
ters, instead  of  raisins.  The  easiest  cooking  apples 
may  be  dropped  in  raw,  but  others  need  to  be  baked 
in  the  pan  with  sugar  and  butter  syrup  first,  and 
the  batter  poured  over  them  and  baked. 


However  good  a  plain  pudding  may  look  to  hun- 
gry people,  there  are  always  others  to  exert  them 
selves  to  make  a  better.  The  credit  of  the  origina 
tion  of  the  following  is  given  to  a  duchess  of  Sun- 
derland. As  here  changed  from  cup  and  spoon 
measure  it  is  0.  K. 


411. 


Sunderland   Pudding. 


BATTER  PUDDING  WITH  RAISINS. 


J  pound  of  seedless  raisins. 
1  pound  of  flour. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

8  eggs,  or  10  yolks,  and  powder. 
4  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

2  ounces  of  golden  syrup. 
Salt.     Baking  powder  optional. 

The  pudding  is  made  with  the  yolks  of  eggs.  The 
whites  are  beaten  to  a  firm  froth  and  added  last,  or, 
if  not  so  beaten,  left  out,  and  baking  powder — 1 
teaspoonful — used  instead.  Make  like  the  puddings 
preceding  it. 

Birdsnest  Pudding. 

For  the  inside  take  ten  ounces  of  first  quality 
white  Chinese  edible,  glutinous  birdsnests.  They 
must  be  taken  from  the  coast  rocks  on  the  day  they 
are  finished  building,  before  they  become  soiled. 
Three  ounces  of  the  purple  gelatinous  moss  from 
Sumatra.  Twelve  eggs  of  the  golden  turtle  of  Sa 
marcand.  Two  wine  glasses  of  the  liqueur  called 
Tears  of  the  widow  of  Malabar.  For  the  outside  or 
casing  cut  thin  shavings  of  the  ripe  fruit  of  the 
Malayan  bread-fruit  tree;  soak  them  a  few  hours  in 
the  clarified  oil  of  fat  puppy  and — 

What,  don't  want  it  ?  "Nay,  then  indeed  I  am 
unblest" — why  not  ? 

0,  here  is  a  regular  Wilkie  Collins  of  a  plot.  Some 
one  has  opened  the  book  at  the  wrong  page,  and  that 
was  not  it  at  all. 


4151. 


Birdsnest  Pudding. 


WITH  CREAM. 


No  doubt  derives  its  name  from  its  appearance 
when  baked  in  a  small  pudding  dish  and  set  on  the 
table  whole.  The  batter  rises  round  the  edges  and 
the  apples  might  be  supposed  to  resemble  eggs.     In 


hotel  service  it  is  but  an  empty  name,   and  this  re- 
ceipt makes  the  puddiag  sufficiently  soft  and  custard 
like  to  stand  the  waiting  of  a  long  dinner. 
10  ounces  of  flour. 

3  pints  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  butter,  melted. 

I  pound  of  sugar. 

6  eggs.     Salt, 

Apples  enough  for  two  three  quart  pudding  pans. 

A  little  more  sugar  and  butter  to  bake  them 
with. 

Cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 

Pare  and  core  the  apples,  put  thoax  in  the  pans 
whole.  Fill  the  core  holes  with  sugar  and  butter; 
grate  nutmeg;  allow  water  enough  to  wet  the  pans, 
then  bake  with  a  thick  sheet  of  paper  over  till  done, 
basting  with  their  syrup  occasionally.  Then  mix 
the  other  ingredients  to  a  smooth  batter,  beat  it 
well;  pour  over  the  coot  ed  apples;  bake  half  an 
hour. 

First  rate  cooking  apples  small  enough  to  be 
served  entire  with  the  batter  round  them  are  most 
desirable.  Cream  or  cream  sauce,  or  wine  or  lemon 
sauce. 

413.       Poudmg  a  la  St.  Croix. 


INDIVIDUAL. 

3  pounds  of  banana  pulp. 
^  pound  of  sugar. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 

1  pint  of  cream. 

12  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 
^  pint  of  West  India  rum. 
^  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 

2  pineapples. 

Peel  the  bananas  and  mash  them  to  a  pulp; 
weigh;  put  into  a  saucepan  with  the  sugar  and  but- 
ter  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  at  boiling  heat. 

Take  it  off,  add  the  cream  and  flavorings,  then  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  lastly  the  whites  whipped  to  a 
firm  froth.  Bake  in  custard  cups  .^r  tin  gem  pans 
of  handsome  shape,  and  well  buttered,  about  10  or 
15  minutes.  Slice  the  pineapples  very  thinly  and 
make  liot  in  a  syrup  of  sugar  and  red  wine.  Serve 
the  little  puddings  upside  down  on  a  slice  or  two  of 
pineapple  in  a  saucer  and  the  syrup  poured  over. 


414.     Baked  Plantain  Pudding. 


WITH  FRENCH  CUSTARD  SAUCE. 

3  pints  or  i»ounds  of  plantain  pulp. 
10  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

1  pint  of  cream. 
10  eggs. 

J  cupful  of  sherry. 

1  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 


93 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


Plantains  are  not  good  for  this  purpose  unless 
ripe.  Peel  and  mash;  stir  over  the  fire  with  the 
butter  and  sugar  till  cooked  semi-transparent;  add 
all  the  ingredients,  the  eggs  beaten  separately,  or  at 
least  very  light.  Bake  in  a  buttered  pan  about  half 
an  hour. 


415.  Oream  Ourd  Puddingr. 

1  pound  of  dry  rennet  curd  (product  of  about  4 
quarts  of  milk). 

^  pound  of  butter. 

f  pound:  of  sugar. 

4  whole  eggs. 

6  yolks.    Salt. 

^  pound  of  raisins  and  currants  mixed. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  fine  bread  crumbs. 

Flavoring  of  lemon,  nutmeg  or  almond. 

Rub  the  curd  as  taken  from  the  cheese  vat  or 
draining  cloth  through  a  seive  or  strainer  by  means 
of  a  masher.  Add  the  other  ingredients,  the  solids 
first,  then  the  beaten  eggs  and  cream,  and  flavorings. 
Bake  in  a  buttered  pudding  pan  about  half  an  hour. 
Serve  with  custard  or  wine  sauce. 

416.  

•'See,  here  is  a  whole  eight-gallon  can  of  milk  gone 

sour." 

'•Pity.  Those  milkmen  seldom  take  pains  to 
thoroughly  cool  their  milk  before  shutting  it  up  in 
the  cans." 

"Well,  can  you  make  any  use  of  it  ?" 
"Yes,  it  will  do  very  well  for  the  preceding  pud- 
ding, and  is  liked  as  well  as  anything  else  in  iis 
turn.  Let  it  get  a  little  better  curdled,  then  bring 
it  to  about  boiling  he ^t;  mind  it  don't  burn  at  bot 
tom;  then  strain  through  a  large  towel  and  hang  the 
curd  up  in  the  towel  to  drip  dry — about  12  hours 
But  take  notice,  this  is  not  the  best.  It  will  be  a 
curd  pudding  lemon  flavored,  but  the  sweet  cream 
or  milk  curd  made  with  rennet  will  make  a  pudding 
to  resemble  almonds." 

41T.  

Buy  a  dry  rennet  of  the  butcher.       Place  a  piece 

of  it  in  a  bottle  and  fill  up  with  water.  When  it  has 
stood  a  few  hours  mix  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  the 
liquor  in  a  pan  of  milk.  In  two  or  three  hours  the 
milk  will  be  curdled  Then  scald  and  drain  the 
curd.     Good  for  puddings,  pies,  cheesecakes,  etc. 

418.  

Baked  Cabinet  Pudding.  Meringue. 


Made  with    slices    of   cake  and   citron  in  small 
Blips;  custard  poured  over  and  baked. 
2  quart  panful  of  slices  of  cake. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 
^  pound  of  citron  cut  fine. 
2  quarts  of  milk. 
6  eggs. 

1  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 
^  cupful  of  brandy. 
Meringue  for  the  top. 


Butter  two  pudding  pans.  Place  in  a  layer  of 
Slices  of  cake.  Then  sprinkle  in  citron  and  bits  of 
batter.  Place  another  layer  oa  that  v/iih  citron 
and  bu'uter  again  and  there  should  fctiil  be  thin 
slices  enough  left  to  cover  the  citron  with  Mix  the 
custard  of  eggs  aud  milk — no  sugar  needed— add 
brandy  and  lemon  juice  and  rind,  pour  over  the 
cake  in  the  pans  and  bake  about  20  minuies.  When 
done  meringue  over  in  the  way  already  detailed  for 
meringue  puddings.  V.'hei  dry  s'ices  of  cake  are 
used  the  lemon  juice  is  still  more  needed  to  freshen 
the  flavor.  The  brandy  may  be  omitted  without 
harm. 


A  cabinet  pudding  to  be  served  whole  can  have 
the  citron  in  patterns  on  moulds  spread  with  butter. 
Wrap  paper  about  the  outsides  to  prevent  too  haid 
baking  of  the  crust.  Bake  half  an  hour.  Meringue 
after  turning  out  and  brown  the  top  with  a  red  hot 
shovel. 


Life  is  full  of  such  compensations  as  these. 
Forbidden  to  use  bread  any  more  in  cur  puddings 
we  must  manage  to  get  along  with  cake.  But  wait, 
befure  commencing  on  the  laborious  savo/  cake 
puddings  there  is  something  else. 

What  a  world  of  Aunt  Betsey  Trotwoods  there 
used  to  be  eating  arrowroot  pcdding  f.r  the  sake  of 
poor  blacks  that  never  existed,  with  a  solicitude 
like  hers  for  Copperfield's  imaginary  sister  !  It  is 
plain  it  was  an  advertising  scheme.  The  argument 
was  :  there  are  those  poor  blacls  in  the  West  In- 
dies; you  have  caused  them  to  be  freed  from  bond- 
age;  there  is  nothing  they  can  do  for  a  living  but 
make  arrowroot;  if  they  cannot  sell  their  arrowroot 
they  will  die,  therefore,  to  save  their  lives,  you 
must  e  it  arrowroot  pudding.  Then  arrowroot  found 
a  good  market  and  the  great  majority  of  all  the  gold 
spectacled  people  in  the  civilized  world  were  eating 
all  they  couM.  The  gold  spectacle  distinction  has 
to  be  made  because  people  below  that  rank  could 
not  very  well  aflford  it  as  the  poor  people  who  made 
arrowroot  would  have  died  if  they  had  not  sold  it 
at  a  high  price.  Eating  arrowroot  pud  ling  is  not 
Euch  a  very  unpleasant  way  of  being  benevolent, 
but,  bless  their  kind  hearts,  there  came  a  time  when 
the  gold  spectacles  could  not  possibly  eat  any  more, 
and  barrels  of  arrowroot  lined  with  blue  paper  be- 
came uncomfortably  numerous  in  the  merchants' 
warehouses.  Then  they  began  mixing  it  with  rice 
flour  and  starch  and  reducing  the  price,  and  there 
never  being  a  very  striking  difference  between  starch 
and  arrowroot  the  cheap  article  has  at  last  very 
nearly  banished  arrowroot  altogether,  except  from 
the  drug  stores.  All  the  annexed  receipts  for 
starch  puddings  will  do  equally  well  for  arrow- 
root, in  case  there  are  any  people  solicitous  for  the 
welfare  of  arrowroot  manufacturers  still  left  in  this 
world 


THE  AMEKIOAN  PASTRY  COOS. 


Boiled   Corn    Starch   Puddingr-       Oorn 

Starch  Minute  Pudding.    Hasty 
410,  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  milk. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

^  pound  of  corn  starch,  good  weight. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

2  or  3  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  teaspoouful  of  salt. 

Vanilla  or  almond  flavoring. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it.  Mix  the 
starch  with  a  little  milk  cold;  thin  it  with  some  hot 
milk  out  of  the  kettle;  pour  it  quic'ily  into  the  boil- 
ing milk  and  stir  two  minutes,  or  till  it  is  well 
thickened.  Have  ready  the  two  yolks  beaten  with 
a  spoonful  of  milk,  take  oflF  the  kettle,  beat  the 
yolks  in,  the  heat  of  the  starch  will  cook  them,  then 
the  butter  an  i  flavorings.  Turn  the  pudding  out  of 
the  kettle  it  was  made  in  to  a  bright  pan  buttered 
slightly,  and  keep  warm  till  wanted.  Serve  with 
lemon  syrup  sauce  or  with  hot  cream. 


There  are  not  many  puddings  as  cheap  and  simple 
as  that.  Nothing  else  is  so  quick,  and  it  is  never 
s'ighted  at  table.  "But  why  was  it,  the  pudding  so 
nice  and  rich  and  firm  when  first  made  afterwards 
turned  to  liquid  in  the  pan  and  could  not  be  dished 
up?" 

It  was  kept  too  hot  and  cooked  too  much. 


4SO.      Boiled  Farina  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  milk. 
J  pound  of  sugar. 
7  ounces  of  farina. 
4  ounces  of  butter 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 
Salt  and  flavoring. 

Nearly  the  same  as  corn  starch  pudding.  Boil 
the  milk  and  sugar  and  sprinkle  in  the  farina  dry, 
beating  like  making  mush.  Let  cook  slowly  half  an 
hour  with  the  lid  on,  at  the  back  of  the  range.  Then 
add  eggs  and  butter.  Lemon,  wine,  vanilla,  cus- 
tard, or  cream  s^uce. 


♦•Such  puddings  as  the  two  last  come  in  just 
right  for  second  puddings." 

"What  do  you  mean  by  second  puddings  ?— they 
are  just  right  for  first." 

"Buttoofiset  the  rich  pudding,  just  as  rich  as  it 
can  be,  the  other  has  to  be  plain  and  of  a  lighter 
kind,  such  as  your  apple  custards  and  fruit  souffles 
and  plain  rice  puddings  to  suit  people  of  simpler 
tastes" 

"Not  now.  The  fashion  of  having  two  hot  pud- 
dings at  once  is  abandoned  in  all  the  best  hotels. 
Instead  of  matching  your  puddings,  one  lich  and 
one  plain,  or  one  baked  and  o  e  steimed,   you  now 


match  your  one  hot  pudding  with  your  oold  cream? 
and  custards  and  floats  and  the  pastries,  anl  fcnn-s 
of  these  are  rich  enough  to  require  the  pudditig  to 
be  as  simple  as  the  corn  starch,  if  all  are  to  be 
pleased.  And  don't  have  a  brandy  sauce  pudding 
at  the  tame  time  with  a  cold  tipsy  custard — give  the 
people  who  abhor  liquor  a  chance." 

4S1.  

Baked  Oorn  Starch  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  milk,  scant. 

^  pound,  good  weight,  of  corn  starch. 
4  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  butter. 
6  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  teaspoouful  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it — which  prevents 
burning  at  bottom.  Mix  up  the  starch  with  a  little 
cold  milk  aud  then  some  hot,  pour  it  quickly  into 
the  boiling  milk  in  the  kettle  and  a' most  immedi 
ately,  or  as  soon  as  fair'y  mixed  take  it  off  the  fi  e. 
Beat  in  the  butter  immediately  to  cool  it;  then  the 
yolks  beaten  up  with  a  spoonful  of  milk;  flavor  and 
bake  about  20  minutes  or  till  the  eggs  are  fair  y 
set  Ihe  art  to  be  learned  in  all  sorts  of  corn  starch 
puddings  is  to  cook  the  starch  enough  so  that  the 
rawness  cann(  t  be  tasted,  yet  not  enough  to  cause 
it  to  turn  watery.     Serve  with  Sultana  sauce. 

4S3.  

Oorn  Starch  Meringue.   New  York  Pud- 
ding.    Oswego  Pudding,  Etc 

Anyone  who  has  made  the  nonpareil  or  queen 
pudding  wid  understand  this  in  a  moment  whento^d 
it  is  the  same  thing  done  in  c">rn  starch.  Make  the 
pudding  of  corn  starch  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt 
When  barely  set  in  the  middle  spread  over  the  top — 
or  drop  portions  with  a  spoon — of  p  ach  mtrmalade 
or  preserves.  Make  that  hot  on  top  and  spread  me- 
ringue of  8  whites  whipped  firm  and  6  ounces  of 
sugar  over  it.  Bake  again  about  5  minutes  with  the 
oven  door  open.     Cream  sauce. 

The  writer  has  seen  more  partial  failures,  prob- 
ably, with  this  class  of  puddings  than  with  any 
others,  and  asks  to  be  excused  fur  dwelling  upon 
trifling  details  for  that  reason.  They  are  excellent 
when  excellently  made.  The  marmalade  on  top 
must  be  made  cooking  hot  before  the  meringue 
touches  it  if  you  would  avoid  having  au  undesirable 
albuminous  syrup  overflowing  the  pudding,  and  the 
meringue  must  be  only  dry-baked. 

There  are  people  who  like  chocolate  in  any  form 
three  times  a  day,  yet  the  liking  is  far  trom  general. 
The  following  pudding  is  probably  as  good  as  can  be 
made  of  its  class.  It  should  only  be  brought  on 
along  with  some  other  commoner  sort  for  aiivraa- 
ive. 


IOC 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Corn  starch  Chocolate  Pudding. 
483.  

2  quarts  of  milk. 

3  ounces  of  grated  chocolate, 
f  pound  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  com  starch, 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

6  or  7  eggs.     Pinch  of  salt. 

1  tab'espoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

Boil  the  milk  with  both  the  sugar  and  chocolate 
in  it.  Beat  frequently  till  the  chocolate  is  all  dis- 
solved. Mix  the  starch  as  usual  and  stir  it  in,  then 
immediately  remove  from  the  fire.  Beat  in  the  but 
ter,  eggs  and  vanilla,  and  bake  about  20  minutes,  or 
till  just  set  in  the  middle.  Serve  warm  with  but 
ter  sauce  or  golden  sauce,  or  cold  with  sweetened 
cream. 

The  foregoing  makes  a  very  fine  appearing  pud 
ding  when  meringued  over  like  the  one  preceed- 
ingit. 


4!94.      Scotch  Barley  Pudding. 

1  pound  of  pearl  or  Scotch  barlej. 

2  quarts  of  water. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 
6  eggs.     Salt. 

1 J  pints  of  milk  to  mix  with. 

^  a  nutmeg  grated. 

Wash  the  barley  in  several  waters  to  free  it  from 
the  meal.  Boil  it  in  the  2  quarts  of  water  at'  the 
back  of  the  range  about  3  hours,  with  a  tight  lid  on. 
Mix  the  other  ingredients  in  and  bake  about  half 
an  hour.  Currants  and  raisins  can  be  added  if  de- 
sired. Two  full  quarts  of  barley  ready  cooked,  if 
dry,  answers  the  same. 


The  reasn  for  inserting  the  preceeding  good  pud- 
ding there  in  haste  was  the  ever  present  fear  of 
steppi'-g  into  an  American  pie  if  we  did  not  shut  off 
corn  starch  immediately. 

Strange,  but  true,  almost  every  pudding  we  touch 
and  begin  to  polish  up  whisks  us  up  and  carries  us 
over  the  water  as  quick  as  the  genii  did  those  who 
rubbed  Aladdhi's  lamp.  That  puddiogs  do  not 
often  beluiig  litre  is  due  to  the  fact  that  while  Uncle 
Sam's  childrea  love  not  pudding  less  they  love  pie 
more,  and  are  very  apt  to  call  all  things  of  native 
origination  pieth*it  would  elsewhere  be  called  pud- 
ding. 1  his  has  been  more  than  once  before  observed 
in  these  columns,  and  here  is  an  example.  There 
were  the  soldiers  "in  the  late  great  war,  many  of 
them  from  homes  of  plenty  and  luxury,  little  relish- 
ing the  rough  fare  of  the  a»ni.y  commissariat,  and 
some  genius  among  them  struck  a  culinary  idea  and 
invented  "Lincoln  pie."  Wherefore  Pie?  It  was 
a  hard  tack  pudding  in  reality,  but  was  made  pie  in 
obedience  to  a  national  instinct,  and  as  Lincoln  pie 


it  had  for  a  time  an  immense  run  of  popularity  far 
outside  of  the  army,  being  sold  in  all  the  bakeries. 
The  original  was  composed  of  hard-tack,  bacon  fat, 
molasses  and  dried  apples,  with  a  tough  flour  crust, 
but  fat  times  and  fat  camps  were  occasionally  en- 
countered and  then  Lincoln  pie  blossomed  out  to 
this. 


435. 

Lincoln  Pie. 


Camp  Little  All-Right. 


1  pound  of  broken  cracVers  or  bread. 

1  pound  of  brown  sugar  or^molasses. 

^  pound  of  currants. 

^  pound  of  raisins. 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices,  chiefly  cinna- 
mon. 

1  pint  of  cold  water. 

^  pint  of  hard  cider,  or  vinegar  and  water. 

1  pound  of  suet  chop  red  fine,  or  lard. 

Some  whisky  and  four  eggs,  if  you  are  rich 
enough.     Little  salt. 

£'oak  the  crackers  or  bread  in  the  fluids  awhile. 
Mix  everything  together.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
baking  pan  with  a  very  thin  sheet  of  common  short 
paste.  Pour  in  the  mixture  to  be  1^  inches  deep. 
Cover  with  another  very  thin  sheet  of  paste.  Brush 
over  with  milk.  Bake  to  a  light  color  in  a  slow 
oven  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Cut  out 
squares  either  hot  or  cold. 


436. 


Plain  Short  Paste. 


2  pounds  of  flour. 

^  pound  of  good  lard,  butter,  drippings,or  grated 
suet. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  pint  of  water. 

A  handful  of  flour  more  to  roll  out  with. 

Rub  the  lard  into  the  flour  dry,  till  thoroughly 
mixed.  Put  in  the  salt  and  all  the  water,  work  it 
up  to  a  smooth  paste,  roll  it  out  once  like  pie  paste, 
fold  it  over  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

The  water  should  always  be  poured  into  a  hollow 
in  the  flour  when  making  any  kind  of  paste,  and 
the  flour  drawn  in  rapidly  but  graduaVy  while  stir- 
ring with  the  fingers,  otherwise  the  paste  may  bo 
rough  and  lumpy  and  much  working  to  correct  the 
mistake  will  make  it  hard. 


4ST.     Boiled  Apple  Dumplings. 

Make  the  plain  short  paste  preceding.  Pare  and 
core  good  cooking  apples;  cut  them  in  halves.  Roll 
the  paste  to  a  sheet  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put 
the  apple  under  the  edge,  gather  paste  around  and 
pinch  it  offunderneath,  and  so  on,  till  all  the  sheet 
is  used  up.  See  that  there  are  no  holes  or  thin  places 
to  let  in  the  water.  Drop  the  dumplings  into  broad 
saucepans  of  boiling  water,  shut  down  the  lids;  let 
them  cook  about  half  an  hour,  or  till  the  apples 
leave  the    fork  when  tried.    Short  paste  cannot  be 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COO^ 


101 


made  any  richer  for  these  without  breaking   in  the   other  crust  on^  iUeja}  ^h^^  the.  re*iai;Ki6r  -  af  the 

cherries  and  a  third  's&eet'  6f  clbu^h'on  top.  Set  in 
a  Bteamer  and  steam  from  30  to  45  minutes  and 
serve  while  hot  and  light,  with  sauce, 


ir«ter. 

428.    Dumplinsrs  Cooked  in  Sauce. 


Make  the  dumplings  like  the  last  variety,  but  use 
the  roll-pudding  paste  made  with  baking-powder  as 
directed  in  the  early  part  of  this  book,  adding  an 
egg  to  the  mixing  water  for  further  precaution 
against  breaking  in  boiling.  Then  boil  the  dump- 
lings in  their  own  sauce  in  the  oven.  This  is  effected 
by  half  filling  two  bright  and  clean  baking  pans 
with  milk  and  water.  When  boiling  drop  in  the 
dumplings  and  cook  about  half  an  hour  with  but- 
tered paper  over  the  top  to  prevent  browning,  and 
baste  occasionally  with  the  liquor,  which  will  glaze 
them.  Then  put  J  pound  of  sugar  and  |  of  butter 
in  each  pan,  and  strain  the  sauce  thus  made  after 
the  dumplings  have  been  removed  to  another  pan. 
Peach    dumplings  are   better  this  way  than  any 

other.  

420.  Raspberry  Pudding. 


The  directions  for  making  this  will  answer  for 
every  kind  of  fruit  that  can  be  used  for  puddings. 

Make  the  plain  short  paste  as  previously  directed 
— if  with  suet  it  should  be  chopped  with  flour  mixed 
in  till  it  is  as  fine  as  powder.  Line  some  deep  earth-, 
enware  bowls  of  any  size  from  a  pint  to  two  quarts 
with  the  paste  rolled  out  to  a  thin  sheet.  Then  fill 
quite  full  and  rounded  up  with  fresh-picked  rasp- 
berries. Wet  the  edges  of  the  paste;  roll  out  a 
round  sheet  of  paste  and  lay  it  on  top;  cut  off  the 
surplus  by  rolling  the  edge  with  the  rolling-pin, 
thereby  closing  it  at  same  time.  Wet  and  flour  a 
pudding  cloth,  lay  the  middle  on  top  of  the  pudding, 
gather  the  corners  around  the  bottom  of  the  bowl 
and  tie  safely.  Drop  the  pudding  upside  down  into 
plenty  of  boiling  water  and  keep  boiling  from  one 
to  two  hours,  according  to  size  and  kind.  When 
done  dip  the  pudding  a  moment  in  cold  water,  take 
off  the  cloth;  cut  a>ound  hole  in  the  top,  put  in  a 
JBufficienoy  of  sugar  and  serve  in  the  bowl  set  on  a 
plate.  No  sauce  needed.  Several  pleasant  com- 
binations of  sweet  and  sour  kinds  of  fruit  can  be 
made  and  used  in  this  way;  sometimes  with  a  Buit^ 
able  sauce. 


All  kinds  of  fruits  can  be  used  to  make  the  above 
kind  of  steamed  pudding,  which  has  no  shortening, 
but  plenty  of  powder,  and  has  the  fruit  in  layers 
like  apple  roll. 


430  a.  Pine  Hominy  Puddingf. 

2  large  cupfuls  of  cooked  fine  hominy — hominy 
grits  or  sdRnp. 

Butter  size  of  an  egg — IJ  ounces, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar — 2  ounces. 

2  yolks  or  1  egg. 

1  small  cupful  of  milk. 

The  hominy  grits  already  cooked,  should  be  dry 
and  firm,  otherwise  use  less  milk  or  none.  Mix  all 
the  ingredients  together,  the  butter  softened  first, 
and  bake  in  a  buttered  pudding  pan  about  £fteen 
minutes.  It  takes  a  quart  pan  to  bake  it  in.  Use 
yolks  of  eggs  if  a  rich  pudding  is  wanted.  Serve 
with  a  sauce.  If  no  hominy  ready  put  on  a  large 
half  cupful  in  full  cup  of  water,  and  when  it  has 
boiled  nearly  dry  add  a  small  cup  of  milk  and  pinch 
of  salt;  never  stir  it,  but  let  cook  with  a  lid  on  one 
half  hour  longer,  at  the  back  of  the  range. 


Boiled  White  Com  Meal  Pudding. 


430.    Steamed  Cherry   Pudding, 

1  quart  of  pitted  cherries. 
8  heaping  cups  of  flour. 

I  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

2  cupfuls  of  water. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour  dry,  make  a  hollow 
in  the  middle,  throw  in  a  little  salt,  pour  in  the 
water  and  mix  up  as  soft  as  it  can  be  handled. 
Work  the  dough  on  the  table  slightly  by  pressing  it 
flat  with  the  hands  and  doubling  over.  Lay  a  bot- 
ton  crust  of  it  in  a  tin  pudding  pan  that  holds  4 
quarts;  spread  half  the  pitted  cherries  on  it,  lay  an- 


1  pound  of  white  corn  meal  (scant  quart). 

1  quart  milk. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  chopped  suet. 

A  little  salt. 

3  eggs. 

1  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  extract  ginger. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it ;  sprinkle  intht 
meal  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  five  minutes. 

Then  take  it  off,  mix  in  the  suet,  salt,  eggs  beaten 
and  ginger.  Wet  and  flour  a  pudding  bag ;  place  it 
in  a  bowl;  pour  in  the  pudding ;  tie  loose  enough 
for  it  to  swell  to  nearly  double  its  bulk ;  drop  in 
plenty  of  boiling  water  and  keep  it  boiling  5  hours. 
When  to  be  taken  up,  dip  it  a  moment  in  cold  water 
and  it  will  come  out  of  the  cloth  smooth.  Serve  with 
butter  and  sugar  hard  sauce. 


430  c.  Granula  Puddingf. 

Granula  is  claimed  to  be  a  healthful  dietetic  of 
the  same  order  as  graham  flour.  It  is  apparently 
parched  wheat  ground  like  corn  meal,  coarsely.  It 
makes  a  pudding  resembling  Indian  meal  pudding. 
Make  it  precisely  as  directed  for  farina,  either 
boiled  or  baked.  See  Nos.  377  and  420.  Use  4 
cups  of  milk  or  water  to  1  cup  of  granula. 


102 


/   f  ^  -  :     THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Had  it  not  seemed  perfectly  useless  to  ask  so 
simple  a  creature  as  that  I  should  certainly  have 
tried  to  learn  some  more  rarious  uses  of  the  magnifi- 
cent chestnuts  which  we  picked  up  in  passing 
through  the  grand  old  manor  grounds,  but  the  fear 
of  having  her  shortly  answer,  "Why  roast  them  in 
the  bars  and  eat  them/'  deterred  me.  If  there  were 
no  larger  and  better  chestnuts  than  these  sold  so 
plentifu'ly  and  cheaply  on  the  streets  there  would 
not  be  much  inducement  even  for  the  famous  mon- 
ley  and  catspaw  business  being  foMowed,  of  placing 
chestnuts  between  the  bars  of  open  fire  places  till 
they  burst  and  fly  out,  but  the  Spanish  and  British 
chestnuts  are  of  a  larger  growth.  Good  old  Horace 
Greeley,  or  at  least  the  paper  under  his  direction,  at 
one  time  became  very  earnest  in  recommending  (he 
extensive  planting  of  chestnut  trees  in  the  west.  It 
concerns  us  here  only  to  hope  that  the  result  may  be 
after  a  while  plenty  of  chestnuts  of  the  large  variety, 
wherewith  to  compound  the  European  chestnut 
puddings.  

For  hotel  cooks  who  have  little  time  to  peel  and 
scrape  the  small  chestnuts  in  quantities,  the  follow- 
ing two  pudding  receipts  will  probably  be  found 
sufficient,  at  least  till  we  come  to  frozen  pud- 
dings among  the  ices. 


There  is  a  meal-co'ored,  dumpy  little  elf,  down 
stairs,  chuckling  audibly  and  saying  there  is  a  good 
deal  more  in  dumplings  than  a  little  Short  Paste 
knows.  The  language  is  that  of  Marguerite,  but 
the  accent  is  either  that  of  Hans  or  Gretchen.  The 
German  elves  are  generally  meal-colored.  Queer  old 
German  stories  there  are  of  some  of  them  going  in  a 
rolic  to  some  tyrannical  .baron  s  granaries  in  the 
myterious  small  hoursj^^of  night,  grinding  a  1  the 
wheat  in  a  few  minutes  in  the  baron  s  own  mill  and 
carrying  the  bags  of  meal  with  many  a  laugh  to  all 
the  widows'  and  orphans'  homes  without  so  much 
as  marking  them  C.  0  D.  The  noisiest  of  those 
below  is  only  "Davy  Dompling,  boiling  in  the  pot," 
but  it  appears  from  the  ta^k  that  dumpling  is  a 
German  word,  and  is  not  much  diflFerent  in  Swedish, 
Norwegian  and  Danish. 

There  must  be  something  in  dumpling  worth  going 
to  Rhineland  to  see  about,  but  this  chestnut  pud- 
ding has  to  be  made  and  steamed  and  baked  first 

The  English  and  French  receipts  always  prescribe 
certain  numbers  of  chestnuts,  as  two  or  three  dozen. 
It  takes  from  150  to  200  of  the  plentiful  American 
chestnuts  to  weigh   a  pound,  hence  the  uselessnes  of 

■uch  receip's.  

431.  Steamed  Chestnut  Pudding. 

1  pound  of  chestnut  pulp. 

J  pint  of  cream. 

^  pound  of  fresh  butter. 


J  pound  of  sugar. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

6  whites  of  eggs. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Vanilla  or  almond  flavoring. 

Boil  1|^  pounds  of  chestnuts  in  water  one  hour. 
Peel  them,  scrape  off  the  furry  outside;  and  mash  the 
kernels  through  a  seive,  moistening  with  hot  cream. 
Mix  all  the  other  ingredients  with  this  puree  except 
the  whites  of  eggs;  the  yolks  having  been  weli 
beaten  before  stirring  in. 

Whip  the  whites  firm,  and  lightly  mix  them  in 
without  beating.  Steam  in  buttered  moulds  about 
one  hour.  Serve  as  soon  as  done,  with  diluted 
fruit  jelly  made  hot  for  sauce,  or  e'se  with  French 
wine  custard. 

4SS.    Chestnut  Pudding  SoufQe. 

Make  the  preceding  pudding  with  only  six  of  the 
yolks  and  no  whites.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it 
thickens.  Take  it  off  and  add  four  raw  yolks  and 
when  nearly  cold  all  the  whites  beaten  firm,  and 
^  pint  of  brandy.  Bake  in  a  two-quirt  mould 
about  half  an  hour.  Dredge  vanilla  flavored  sugar 
over  the  top  in  the  oven,  and  send  it  straight  from 
oven  to  table.  Powdered  vanilla  bean  will  flavor 
the  sugar. 

Very  often  in  the  dinner  bills  of  European  plan 
hotels  there  appears  in  pudding's  place  '  Savarin 
Cake."  Persons  unaware  of  all  our  singu'ar  wajs 
would  be  apt  to  think  there  was  no  pudding.  In 
hotels  where  the  cake  is  set  on  the  tab'e  in  baskets 
Savarin  cake  as  pudding  is  pretty  sure  to  get  ost  in 
the  confusion.  In  United  States  parlance  Savarin 
ca'je  is  Savarin  pudding  as  follows: 


Savarin  pudding  is  a  hot  cake,  yeast  laised  but 
like  sponge  cake,  with  a  liquor  poured  into  it,  and 
may  be  s'rrved  with  sweetened  cream.  My  meal- 
colored  elf  downstairs,  the  muscular  one  who  sits 
on  the  dough  trough  lid  to  keep  the  dough  from 
raising  it,  says  it  takes  German  ba^^ers  atid  cooks  to 
know  how  to  make  fine  yeast-raised  cakes,  that 
American  cooks  and  bakers  are  content  to  get  along 
with  pound  and  sponge  cakes  for  every  occasion. 

In  a  proposed  book  of  breads  yet  to  come  we  will 
have  a  course  of  yeast  raised  cakes  beginning  with 
the  simplest  and  including  Savarin.  However,  the 
common  and  sitisfactory  way  U  to  use  a  good  hot 
sponge    or    savoy   cake  for    this   pudding.     Here 

are  both  ways. 

433.  Savarin  Cake. 

1  pound  of  good  lively  roll  dough. 

IJ  pounds  of  freshest  buWer. 

G  ounces  of  sugar. 

14  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour, 

J  teacupful  of  brandy. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


103 


J  pound  of  almonds. 

Lemon  or  nutmeg  extract. 

This  must  be  commenced  five  or  six  hours  before 
the  meal.  For  a  midday  dinner,  tike  the  roll  dough, 
(or  dough  bought  of  a  baker),  at  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing, put  it  in  a  pan  with  Ihe  sugar  and  butter  and 
set  in  a  warm  corner  to  get  all  warmed  through.  In 
half  an  hour,  beat  tbem  together,  then  begin  adding 
the  eggs  two  at  a  time  and  the  flour  a  handful  at  a 
time  Beat  like  blitzen.  It  makes  a  soft  batter 
like  pound  cake.  Beat  it  some  more  against  the 
side  of  the  pan.  Set  it  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
for  about  two  hours,  when  it  shoud  be  risen  to 
about  twice  its  original  bulk,  then  beat  again  for 
five  minutes;  add  the  brandy  and  flavoring  extract. 
B'anch  and  shred  the  almonds.  Strew  them  evenly 
over  the  insides  of  two  buttered  cake  moulds;  put  in 
the  batter  with  a  spoon;  set  to  rise  in  the  moulds 
again  about  IJ  hours,  then  bake  in  a  slow  oven 
about  1  hour,  or  according  to  size  and  depth  of 
cakes.  When  nicely  baked  these  cakes  are  of  a  rich 
orange  color  and  quite  spongy.  Set  them  on  the 
dish  upside  down;  push  a  small  funnel  down  in 
several  places  and  by  its  means  pour  into  the  cake 
some  hot  orange  syrup  mixed  with  curacoa.     Serv  e 


warm. 
434. 


Savarin  Pudding. 


A  large  bisquit  de  savoie  partly  saturated  with  a 
fine  liqueur  and  served  hot  with  cream. 

Prepare  one  or  two  cake  moulds  by  brushing  over 
with  the  clear  part  of  melted  butter.  When  cold 
and  set,  or  nearly  so,  sift  in  some  powdered  sugar 
to  coat  the  moulds,  and  turn  out  the  surplus.  Then 
make  the  cake. 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

12  ounces  of  flour — good  weight. 

1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 

\  pint  of  brandy. 

Have  the  ingredients  all  quite  cold.  Beat  the 
sugar  and  eggs  in  a  round  bottomed  kettle,  with  a 
arge  wire  egg-whisk,  half  an  hour  by  the  clock. 
Then  "cut  in,"  or  lightly  stir  in  the  flour  with  a 
spoon,  then  the  extract  and  brandy.  When  all  the 
flour  is  out  of  sight  stop  stirring  and  bake  the  cakes 
as  soon  as  you  can.  Sift  granulated  sugar  on  top  be- 
fore baking.  Have  a  moderate  oven  and  not  the 
least  dark  color  about  the  cakes.  They  bake  easily 
in  about  half  an  hour. 

When  done  pour  into  them  through  holes  made 
with  a  knife  point  or  funnel  about  a  pint  of  nice 
lemon  or  orange  syrup  with  half  as  much  curacoa 
or  maraschino  mixed  in.  Serve  with  either  hot 
cream  pweetened  or  a  plain  custard  in  the  sau- 
cers.   

In  about  forty-nine  out  of  every  fifty  places 
where  these  puddings  are  made  they  have  to  be 
baked  in  ranges  or  stoves,  and  take  their  chance  for 
their  turn  with  meats,  fishes,  pies,  potatoes,  pars- 


nips, etc.,  etc.,  so  that  special  attentions  and  gradu- 
ated fires  are  out  of  the  question.  With  the  utmost 
respect  for  the  fiftieth,  the  writer  avows  a  greater 
desire  to  be  of  service  to  the  forty- nine,  and  ^or  an 
easier  way  recommends  the  annexed. 


435.  Tipsy  Pudding  With  Cream. 


This  is  first  cousin  to  the  two  preceding,  and  is 
popular,  but  is  quite  elastic  in  the  way  of  details, 
that  is  it  can  be  made  and  sauced  in  different  ways, 
not  worth  considering  separate  puddings.  Make 
the  sponge  cake  mixture  preceding  or  else  tV-e 
quicker  and  easier  butter  sponge  calie  soon  to  fol- 
low, and  bake  on  jelly  cake  pans  which  take  scarce 
ly  five  minutes  baking.  Lay  two  or  three  of  these 
flat  sheets  piled  up  in  a  bright  pan  and  pour  over  a 
hot  sauce  of  either  cream  with  sugar  and  wine,  or 
else  a  custard  with  maraschino  or  brandy  Or,  you 
can  partly  saturate  the  sheets  of  cake,  which  should 
be  quite  light  colored,  with  spoonfuls  of  brandy  and 
have  the  cus  ard  plain. 


We  have  the  next  when  we  want  to  gild  refined 
gold,  for  extra  times,  when  all  else  seems  stale,  flat 
and  unprofitable. 


is  not  very  tedious  to  make  and  there  is  no  difficulty 
except  in  getting  enough  of  it. 

436.  

Baked  Sponge  Roll  With  Sauce. 

Make  the  sponge  cake  mixture  according  to  the 
directions  under  the  head  of  Savarin  pudding. 
Rather  use  less  sugar  than  more.  Too  much  sugar 
is  one  frequent  cause  of  poor  sponge  cake.  Grease 
and  flour  some  b  king  sheets  or  shallow  roll  pan'. 
Spread  the  batter  over  them  as  thin  as  can  be,  jnst 
to  cover  the  iron.  Bake  in  a  brisk  oven  about  fire 
minutes,  run  a  knife  down  the  sides  to  loosen  the 
cake.  Turn  it  upside  down  on  a  clean  table  and 
shake  the  cake  loose. 

Immediately  ppread  red  current  jelly  thinly  a  1 
over  and  roll  the  cake  up  neatly.  Serve  warm,  cut 
in  suitable  pieces,  with  a  rich  transparent  since  con- 
taining lemon  juice  and  flavored  poured  over. 

It  is  too  much  trouble  and  wastes  time  to  bake 
these  sponge  sheets  on  sheets  of  paper.  Very  little 
practice  is  needed  to  use  the  bare  pan  with  greater 
advantage.  Sometimes  it  helps  a  bad  bake  to  roll 
up  a  britt'e  sheet  after  the  roll  is  made,  in  a  sheet  of 
paper  to  improve  its  shape. 


No  one  expected  to  find  the  above  in  a  book  of 
puddings,  but  Ruskin  says  that  cookery  means  th« 
knowledge  of  all  fruits  and  herbs  and  balms  and 


104 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTR-J  COOK. 


8p!ces,  and  of  all  that  is  healing  and  sweet  in  fields 
and  groves.  • 

We  ought  not  to  forget  this  white  cocoanut  souffle. 
It  is  good  to  use  up  white  of  eggs,  and  good  for 
other  purposes. 

43  T.    Cocoanut  Pudding  SouflQe. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch, 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

I  pound  of  grated  or  desicated  cocoanut. 

12  whites  of  eggs,  (10  or  12  ounces). 

Rose  and  lemon  flavoiing. 

Set  the  milk  on  to  boil. 

Mix  the  starch  and  sugar  together  dry;  drop 
them  at  once  into  the  boiling  milk;  stir  up  rapidlj. 
As  soon  as  it  becomes  thick  beat  in  the  butter  then 
the  cocoanut,  take  it  off  the  fire  and  let  it  cool,  but 
not  set  firm.  Then  beat  the  whites  to  a  firm  froth 
Beat  up  the  pudding  mixture,  stir  in  the  whites  add 
flavoring  and  bake  about  ten  minutes  in  the  usual 
manner,  either  in  cups,  shells,  cases  or  in  one  round 
mould.    Powdered  sugar  on  top. 


This  is  a  case  of  conscience.  A  Ittle  way  back 
tipsy  pudding  was  placed  close  after  Savaria  pud- 
ding and  called  its  first  cousin,  and  now  there  is  a 
fear  that  good  old  Brillat-Savarin  may  be  dis- 
honored by  its  being  called  his,  as  if  it  were  all 
the  same  and  as  if  he  had  been  a  tipsy 
man.  Don't.  Names  are  cheap;  use  some  other. 
Bri  lat  Savarin  was  well-disposed  towards  cooks,  as 
was  also  Lever,  the  elder  Dumas  and  Thnckeray,  each 
after  his  own  manner.  You,  reader,  would  make 
the  tipsy  pudding  so  excellently  that  the  great  ad- 
vocate of  gastronomy  would  but  smile  indulgently, 
but  suppose  that  down  there  where  bad  hotels  exist 
some  poor  fellow  following  your  example  of  license 
should  make  it  inferentially  appear  that  Savarin  was 
fond  of  sheets  of  cake  saturated  with  horrible 
corn-juice  whisky,  and  a  turpentinish  flavor  of  ran- 
cid lemon  oil  put  up  in  a  village  drug  store.  Don't 
mix  names;  or  if  you  must,  take  a  slice  of  fine  white 
bread  and  pour  pure  milk  over  it,  and  call  that  Sav- 
arin pudding.  He  would  agree  with  us;  bread  and 
milk  pure  and  simple  i:?  glorious  in  comparison. 


One  of  Savarin's  ideal  d'nners,  a  Barmacide  feast 
which  he  spreads  on  paper,  and  which  i^  to  "rive, 
every  guest's  altention,"  at  which  "the  faces  of  al'; 
one  after  another,  are  seen  to  beam  with  an  ecstasy 
of  enjoyment,  the  perfect  repose  of  b'is?,"  fi:jishes 
with  a  pyramid  of  vanilla  and  rose  meringue  cake — 
a  test  sometiraps  useless,  unless  in  the  case  of  ladies, 
abbes,  etc." 

What  then,  amongst  the  various  article  to  which 
such  a  description  might  apply  was  this  pyramid  of 
yanilla  and  rose  meringue-cake    appearing    at  the 


end  of  dinner,    if  not  something   like  these  next 
described? 


A  peculiarity  about  the  meringue  puddings  next 
following  (or  call  them  meringue  cakes  as  Savarin 
did,  if  you  like),  is  that  it  takes  a  good  p  stry  cook 
to  make  them  successfully;  but  then  they  have  the 
advantage  of  not  being  too  common.  They  are  not 
such  as  one  would  want  to  make  every  day;  yet  they 
are  rich,  elegant,  ornamental  and  can  be  served 
either  cold  or  hot,  whole  on  the  table  or  in  individ- 
ual portions.  They  consist  of  three  distinct  p'trts; 
the  cake  bottom  the  cream  layer  in  the  middle  and 
the  ornamental  meringue  on  top;  yet  the  first  speci- 
men being  well  made  the  half  dozen  others,  all  dif- 
ferent, can  be  put  through  by  the  same  methods,  and 
the  first  trouble  is  not  lost. 

438.     Lemon  Cream  Meringue. 
Magnolia  Meringue 


For  the  first  part  or  bottom  layer  make  this  most 
useful  cake  mixture,  called  butter  sponge  cake. 

1  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 
10  eggs. 

^  pound  of  butter  melted. 

^  pint  of  milk,  slight  y  warmed.  J 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  bak  ing  powder. 
Vanilla  or  lemon  flavor. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  about  five  min- 
utes. Add  the  melted  butter,  the  milk,  the  extract 
of  vanilla,  and  beat  all  one  minute  more.  Then  beat 
ill  the  baking  powder,  and  into  the  light  foamy  batter 
thus  made  immediately  stir  the  flour. 

This  can  be  used  for  jelly  cakes,  cream  cakes, 
and  many  other  purposes. 

Butter  and  flour  the  bottoms  of  two  bright  pud- 
ding-pans— four  quart  milk  pans  are  good — and 
spread  the  cake  batter  over  thinly,  like  jelly  cakes. 
Bake  very  light  colored.  Let  the  batter  be  well  up 
to  the  edges  so  as  to  have  the  sheets  level,  not  bulged 
up  in  the  midd  e.     Then  make  the  lemcn  cream. 

3  pints  of  water — scant. 
I  pound  of  sugar. 

4  lemons. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

10  yolks  of  eggs. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  butter  in  it.  Mix  the 
starch,  sugar  and  grated  lemon  rinds  all  together 
'^ry,  then  stir  rapid  y  into  the  boiling  water.  Take 
the  mixture  from  the  fire;  add  to  it  the  juice  of  three 
of  the  lemons,  (if  large),  and  then  the  beaten  yolks. 

Pour  this  mixture  on  top  of  the  sheets  of  cake  in 
the  pans,  without  loosening  them,  and  bake  in  a 
s'ow  oven  about  15  minutes  on  theshe'f  c f  the  oven, 
or  with  a  pan  under  to  prevent  the  boUoms  bak- 
ing too  much. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


105 


The  preceding  is  almost  lemon  pie  mixture,  but 
fai  firm  enough  to  cut  square  sided  like  cake. 

When  the  lemon  cream  is  fairly  set  spread  a  thick 
layer  of  meringue  on  it  while  still  hot  and  finish  bak- 
ing with  the  oven  door  open;  time  about  ten  minutes. 
Serve  cut  in  tall  but  narrow  diamonds  or  squares  in 
plates  or  saucers  with  whipped  cream  around.  Ten 
to  fourteen  whites  and  about  as  many  ounces  of 
sugar  are  required  for  the  meringue. 

430.    Almond  Cream  Meringue. 


Princess  Meringue. 


Make  and  bake  the  cake  sheets  in  the  pans,  same 
as  for  the  lemon  cream  meringue  preceding,  then 
make  the  almond  as  follows: 

3  pints  of  milk. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch, 

A  pound  of  almonds. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

Flavoring  of  rose. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Scald  the  almonds,  peel,  mince  and  then  pound 
them  to  a  rough  paste.  Boil  the  milk,  mix  the  starch 
and  sugar  together  dry,  stir  rap  idly  into  the  milk, 
take  off,  and  add  the  other  ingredients,  the  whites 
not  beaten,  except  in  the  mixtifre,  and  the  almonds 
and  rose  extract  last. 

Bake  this  white  cream  on  the  cakes  as  before. 
Make  the  meringue  a  rose-pink  color,  flavor  with 
vanilla  and  rose,  and  sift  granulated  sugar  on  top 
before  baaing.  Serve  with  a  port  wine  and  lemon 
sauce. 

440.  

Chocolate  Cream  Meringue. 

Gipsy  Meringue 

The  same  in  the  main  as  t^^e  Iwo  preceding  with  a 
chocolate  cream  for  the  middle. 

3  pints  of  milk. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  of  grated  chocolate. 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

Vanilla  flavoring.     Little  salt. 

Make  same  way  as  almond  cream,  boiling  the 
grated  chocolate  in  the  milk.  Make  the  meringue 
white  and  very  light  baked;  flavor  it  with  almond 
•nd  sift  crimson  sugar  sand  on  top  after  baking. 


The  object  of  baking  the  sheets  of  cake  in  the 
pans  in  which  the  meringue  is  made  is  to  have  them 
adhere  to  the  bottom  sufficiently  to  prevent  their 
rising  and  floating  in  the  cream  mixture  when 
poured  in  as  otherwise  they  will  do.  Jelly  cake 
sheets  used  this  way  have  to  be  held  to  the  bottom 
by  means  of  a  little  beaten  egg,  baked  by  passing 
the  pan  a  moment  over  the  fir© 


441,   Pineapple  Cream  Meringue. 


Eclipse  Meringue. 


1  quart  of  grated  or  minced  pineapple, 

1  small  cupful  of  port  wine. 
^  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

1  lemon  rind  grated. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  pound  of  shred  pistachio  nuts. 

Stew  the  minced  pineapple  and  wine  and  ha'f  the 
sugar  together,  till  somewhat  r.  duced  and  like  fruit 
butter.  Mix  the  starch  and  the  rest  of  the 
sugar  together,  stir  them  and  the  butter  into  the 
pineapple,  add  flavoring  and  yolks  of  egg 4.  Bake 
this  cream  on  bottom  sheets  of  white  cake.  AJer- 
ingue  over  as  usual  Sift  sugar  on  top  before  baking 
and  strew  over  the  shred  pistachio  nuts.  Dry  bake 
to  a  fawn  color  with  the  oven  door  open. 


When  these  meringue  puddings  are  to  be  set  on 
the  tab'e  whole,  to  be  eaten  cold  the  method  has  to 
be  varied  a  little,  by  baking  on  jelly-cake  pans  with 
a  stout  paper  hoop  pinned  or  pasted  around.  But- 
ter the  paper  well,  make  the  meringue  in  it  instead 
of  in  a  pan,  then  remove  it  carefully  when  the  me- 
ringue is  placed  on  its  stand,  being  slipped  from  the 
j  lly  ca'e  fl  t  by  means  of  a  palette  knife.  In  these 
cases  the  meringue  can  be  placed  in  pyramidal  form 
through  a  large  tube  or  cornet  forming  dome  shapes 
on  top,  etc  ,  etc      Here  is  one  more  for  variety: 


443.     Orange  Cream  Meringue. 


Natchez  Meringue. 

To  ornament  the  top  of  this,  cindied  and  sugared 
orange  peel  should  be  prepared,  or  green  citron,  or 
preserved  water  melon  rind.  The  orange  peel  first 
cut  into  the  smallest  possible  squares  is  stewed  in 
plenty  of  water  to  extract  the  bitter  taste,  then 
stewed  in  white  syrup,  then  partly  dried  and  rolled 
in  granulated  sugar  to  separate  the  pieces.  Strcw 
this  candied  peel  over  the  top  of  meringue  after  it 
hag  become  firm  without  removing  it  from  the  oven. 

The  orange  cream. 

3  oranges. 

1  lemon. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

2^  pints  of  water  (5  cups). 

3  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

10  yolks  of  eggs 

Grate  the  rinds  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  oranges 
and  lemon  into  the  water,  then  bring  it  to  a  boil, 
add  the  starch  and  sugar  and  finish  as  directed  foi 
other  kinds. 


106 


THE  A3SIBRICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


My  meal-colored  elf,  who  still  is  sitting  on  the 
dough-trough  as  before,  and  converses  so  well,  in  » 
rich  Hartz  Mountain  dialect,  would  be  a  delightful 
companion  to  wile  away  a  witching  midnight  hour 
or  two  if  he  were  not  such  an  idol  breaker.  Native  of 
Sinta  Claus  land  as  he  is  it  wouM  be  glorious  to  sit 
in  the  stilly  night,  when  stars  are  in  the  quiet  skies 
and  the  cricket  chirrups  on  the  hearth,  and  hear 
him  tell  the  weird  wild  stories  of  the  Blac'i  Forest, 
or  the  strange  but  mellowed  legends,  half  told  half 
hinted  in  the  Pilgrims  of  the  Rhine.  But  his  realism 
is  chilling  in  the  extreme  and  he  has  no  feeding  of 
compunction: 

"Mephistopheles?" 

♦'No,  not  numerous.  Never  but  one  man  really 
saw  Mephistopheles,  that  was  Gurthe." 

Then  I  suppose  Gurthe  is  Goethe,  and  wonder 
where  Sir  Walter  Scott  found  the  name  Gurth  for 
his  Saxon  swineherd.  But,  says  he,  there  was  no 
Gurth,  no  Wamba,no  Ivanhoe,  and  Friar  Tucx  never 
had  a  venison  pasty! 

"But  the  Hartz  Mountains — are  they  not  full  of 
the  supernatural  ?" 

"Nein.  They  are  full  of  charcoal-burners,  glass- 
blowers,  miners,  and  people  who  make  childrens' 
toys." 

**No  headless  horesmen  who  ride  past  you  at 
night!  No  white  lady  of  the  what's  its  name  moun- 
tain pass?  No  demons  that  come  and  tempt  wood- 
choppers  to  do  something?  No  haunted  hotels  in 
the  Black  Forest?  No  safes,  no  annunciators,  no 
elevators?" 

"Ncin." 

'*No  phantom  herds  of  deer  that  vanish  into  the 
ground  just  as  the  guests  on  a  hunt  are  about  to 
come  up  with  them?  No  Metheglin?  No  were- 
wolves, no  vampires,  no  dampfnudeln?'* 

"0,  yes,  there  are  German  dumplings." 

"Real  and  sure?" 

*'0,  Yes;  they  are  real  enough." 

"'Tis  well  for  the  hungry  boy  who  shouts  with  his 
sister  at  play;  and  well  for  the  sailor  lad 
who  sings  in  his  boat  on  the  bay;  that  this  much  is 
solid  in  Fatherland,  and  cannot  be  reasoned  away  " 

443.    German  PuflF  Dumplings. 

Very  fine,  cheap  and  wholesome.  They  are 
Usually  boiled  but  can  be  raised  and  cooked  in 
Bteamers,  previously  brushed  over  with  butter  as 
well. 

2  pounds  of  good  light  bread  dough. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  egg  and  2  yolks,  or  2  eggs. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 
1  pound  of  flour. 

If  for  midday  dinner  take  the  dough  at  seven  in 
the  morning,  mix  the  sugar  butter  and  eggs  with  it 
as  well  as  can  be,  then  set  the  pan  in  a  warm  place 
awhile,  after  which  it  can  be  beaten  smooth.     Work 


in  the  flour  to  make  it  a  stiff"  dough  again  acd  set  it 
away  to  rise.  At  11  o'clock  work  the  dough  by 
foMing  and  pressing  out  with  the  knuckles  roll  it 
out  to  a  sheet,  brush  over  s'ightly  with  lard  or  but- 
ter, cut  out  like  biscuits,  let  rise  about  half  an  hour 
on  greased  pans,  drop  into  boiling  water  and  cook 
about  15  minutes  Butter  and  si  gar  cr  any  kind 
of  pudding  sauce,  or  stewed  fruit. 


The  plain  dough,  or  that  of  French  roUs  is  often 
cool^ed  as  dumpling*?  to  be  ea^en  with  meat.  The 
receipt  preceding  may  be  made  ri:'her  by  adding 
yolks'of  eggs  and  more  butter  (but  no  more  sugnr) 
to  any  desired  degree. 

444.  

Not  as  a  matter  of  opinion    as   to  what  might  or 

ught  to  be  the  case  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  it  has  to 
be  observed  cgaui  that  the  plain  dumplings  yeast- 
raited  are  but  eeldom  made  in  ordinary  hotels,  the 
».wo  or  three  manipulations  required  and  the  ear  y 
planning  being  against  them  In  ten  minutes  a 
similar  article  can  be  made  with  soda  and  butter- 
milk or  acid,  or  with  baking  powder,  that  answers 
every  purpose.  It  is  something  of  an  art  to  make 
these  so  that  they  will  remain  light  when  done,  yet 
it  is  a  very  simple  one,  the  essential  being  only  to 
have  the  dough  very  soft,  made  and  dropped  with  a 
spoon  like  fritters. 

445,  Egg,  or  Drop  Dumplings. 

1  pound  or  quart  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  tf  baking  powder. 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 

Two  thirJs  pint  of  water  (largest  coff'ee  cup.) 

Little  salt. 

Mix  fljur  and  powder  together  dry;  drop  the 
yolks  in  the  middle,  pour  the  water  to  them  and 
beat  up  the  batter  with  a  spoon.  Have  ready  a 
saucepan  of  water  boiling;  dip  the  spoon  occasion 
ally  in  melted  fat;  form  egg-shaped  dumplings  with 
it  and  drop  them  in.  Coek  with  the  lid  on  about  ten 
minutes.  If  there  is  room  theyl  will  turn  them- 
selves  over  like  fritters.     Can  also   bo  steamed  as 

well.  

440.  Egg  Dumplings  with  Fruit. 

The  yellow  dumplings  of  the  foregoing  receipt, 
drained  on  a  skimmer,  rn'-y  be  EerveJ  in  a  saucer 
with  fruit  and  hot  cream  and  sugar. 

44T.  

Blackberry  Drop  Dumplings. 

Flour  the  hands,  take  and  shape  spoonfuls  of  the 
soft-dough — either  of  the  egg  dumplings  or  made 
with  one  whole  egg,  or  none — into  biscuit  shapes; 
put  a  spoonful  of  ripe  berries  in  the  middle,  close 
up  and  drop  the  dumpUngs  into  a  pan  of  boiling 
milk  and  water  and  cook  inside  the  oven  about 
twenty  minutes.  Baste  with  the  milk  and  water 
twice  to  glaze.  Serve  with  sauce.  Halves  of  peaches 
can  be  used  in  the  same  way. 


THE  AMERICAN  FASTBT  COOK. 


107 


A  little  dexterity,  acquired  by  practice  in  hand 
ling  the  soft  dough  is  usually  rewarded  with  light 
enow  flake  affairs  that  do  not  turn  heavy  with 
waiting. 

448.    Pilling  for  Sweet  Timbale. 
Baked  Macaroni  Fuddinif. 


f  pound  of  macaroni. 

3  pints  of  milk  to  stew  in. 

J  pound  of  sugar. 

J  pound  of  butter. 

1  pint  of  cream  to  mix  up  with 

10  yolks,  or  5  whole  eggs. 

Salt;  vanilla. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  and  butter  in  it 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Put  in  the  macaroni  broken 
in  inch  lengths.  Simmer  with  the  lid  on  about  half 
an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks  and  cream  together,  add 
flavoring,  mix  with  the  macaroni  by  shaking,  with- 
out a  spoon.  Bake  in  a  buttered  pan  about  half 
an  hour,  or  till  set.  Stew  raisins  in  wine  sau  e 
to  serve  with  it. 

449.  

Macaroni  Cake  with  Fruit  Jelly. 


f  pound  of  macaroni. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

3  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

3  eggs. 

Salt,  vanilla  or  nutmeg. 

Keep  out  a  cup  of  milk  to  beat  up  with  the  eggs. 
Make  same  as  macaroni  pudding  preceding.  Bake 
in  a  pan,  to  be  about  an  inch  deep  when  done.  Out 
in  strips,  squares,  or  diamonds  and  serve  with  red 
fruit  jelly. 


450.  Baked  Vermicelli  Pudding. 

The  quality  of  vermicelli  varies  so  much  that  no 
rule  will  serve  tor  all  the  sorts.  Vermicelli  ought  to 
be  parboiled  and  drained  before  being  used  fur  this 
purpose  Some,  however,  will  dissolve  to  a  paste  as 
soon  as  hot  water  touches  it. 

The  same  ingredients  and  proportions  named  or 
macaroni  pudding  serve  for  vermicelli. 

Boil  a  small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon  in  the  milk  i  i 
lieu  of  other  flavoring.  Break  the  vermicelli  rather 
small  before  cooking.  Do  not  etir  it  except  by  shak- 
ing up  with  a  furk.  Always  drop  both  vermic:l  i 
and  macaroni  into  milk  or  water  that  is  boiling 
a-r.ady. 


Italian  paste  puddings,  like  everything  else  may 
have  their  day,  but  other  pieces  can  be  put  upon  the 
boards  which  will  have  a  much  more  extensive  run, 
especially  when  presented  in  a  spirite  1  manner,  like 
the  following  with  brandy  or  wine  sauce. 


451.      Baked  Sponge  Pudding. 


This  is  simply  hot  cake  with  sauce,  and  may  be  th^ 
regular  sponge  cake  mixture,  but  the  following  is 
easier,  cheaper,  and  answers  equally  as  well. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
10  eggs. 

^  pound  of  butter  me' ted 
^  pint  of  tepid  milk. 
1^  pounds  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  in  a  kettle  as  if  making 
sponge  cake,  but  t  wo  or  three  minutes  will  do.  Then 
add  the  other  ingredients,  the  powder  just  before  the 
flour;  beat  up  well,  bake  in  shallow  baVirg  jans 
greased  and  floured,  with  granulated  sugar  sifted 
over  the  top  before  putting  in  the  oven.  The  cake 
rises  considerably  and  should  be  only  half  an  inch 
deep  when  put  in  the  pans.  It  should  be  baked  of 
a  very  light  color,  and  have  a  handsome  g  azed  ap- 
pearance. Cut  out  in  squares.  Picnty  of  sauce  is 
required.  A  suitable  article  to  make  on  short 
notice,  and  may  be  varied  by  having  raisius,  etc., 
mixed  in. 

The  next  is  cottage  pudding.  It  is  supposed  that 
in  pastoral  days  it  was  called  }ove-in  a-cottage  pud- 
ding, because  a  very  fashionable  belle  said  she  saw  a 
love  of  a  pudding  in  the  cottage  where  she  stayed 
till  the  shower  was  over.  But  as  love  in  a  cottage 
went  out  of  fashion,  and  it  came  to  be  love  in  a  grand 
hotel  with  a  suite  of  rooms  and  all  the  modern  con- 
veniences the  poor  pudding  lost  half  its  title  and 
remains  as  follows: 

45».  

Cottage  Pudding   with  Barberry  Vin- 
egar. 

A  flour  compound  midway  between  cake  and  bat- 
ter pudding. 
^  pound  of  sugar. 
I  pound  of  butter. 
6  eggs. 

1  pint  of  milk. 
Impounds  of  flour. 

3  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
Level  teaspoonful  of  sa't. 

Make  up  like  pound  cake,  by  creaming  the  sugar 
and  butter  together,  adding  the  eggs  two  at  a  time, 
the  milk  and  then  the  flour  with  powder  and  salt. 
Bake  either  m  cake  moulds  and  s  ice  like  pound 
pudding,  or  else  in  a  baking  pan,  shallow,  to  be  cut 
in  squares.  Takes  from  twenty  to  forty  minutes. 
Lemon  syrup  sauce  is  a  good  substitute  for  rasberry 
vinegar. 


Rasberry  vinegar  is  a  favorite  sauce  with  the 
English  for  all  sorts  of  flour  and  egg  puddings  and 
pancakes.  Directions  for  making  it  will  be  found  ai 
the  end  of  this  book. 


108 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


From  this  time  forth  stem  duty  requires  us  to  stay 
at  home  and  deal  only  in  American  productions.  In 
this  little  private  exposition  as  many  foreign  coun  - 
tries  have  been  represented  as  small  expositions 
generally  can  boast  of.  The  space  allott  d  Great 
Britain  was  necessarily  the  largest,  but  France  was 
Dot  far  behind,  albeit  very  few  French  flags  were  set 
to  mark  the  nation*  ily  of  the  goods.  One  country 
is  entirely  unrepresented,  that  is  Central  Africa; 
yet  it  is  not  the  f  ult  of  the  culinary  commissioners, 
but  of  the  country  itself.  A  careful  examination  of 
the  books  of  Stanley's  explorations  ends  fruitlessly. 
It  appears  p'ainly  that  the  interior  of  Africa,  or  the 
African's  interior — and  if  there  is  any  diflFerence  in 
the  terms  whichever  is  right  wi  1  do — is  altogether 
unacquainted  with  pudding.  45^ 

There  is  one  nice  pudding  material  which  might, 
perhaps  have  been  placed  in  the  rice  department  of 
the  Lower  Nile  but  has  been  excluded  through  a 
prejudice  against  the  label  on  the  packages,  which  s 
•  picture  of  "natives  manufacturing  manioca,"  and 
looks  too  much  like  "natives  gathering  chow  chow 
leaves  for  Doctor  Helmbold's  extract  of  chow 
chow."  Manioca  makes  pudding  quite  equal  to 
rice.  Pound  some  rice  in  a  mortar,  sift  out  the 
coarse,  sift  out  the  flour,  use  the  middle,  sago-like 
grains  and  you  will  not  know  it  from  manioca.  The 
farina  or  rice  pudding  receipts  will  do  for  it. 

China  makes  a  fair  showing  if  rice,  yams,  and 
birdsnestcbe  credited  to  her.  The  East ,  Indies 
has  only  one  article,  sago  pudding,  but  that  is  quite 
impor  ant  in  its  relation  to  this  country. 

Every  reader  who  will  recall  to  mind  the  first 
American  Indian  romance  he  ever  read  will  recol 
lect  how  they  always  used  to  greet  each  other  with 
"Sago,  sago,  great  chief!"  Sago  is  the  pith  of  a 
tree;  and  that  is  why  the  Indians  got  such  a  repu- 
tation lor  short  and  pithy  sentences.  But  there  is 
more  in  it  than  thac,  "Where  did  the  Indians  come 
from?"  is  a  question  never  yet  satisfactorily  ans 
wered,  notwithstanding  the  attempts  to  prove  them 
the  lost  ten  tribes,  and  floaters  across  Behring's 
Straits.  The  word  sago,  it  is  seen,  is  in  spontan- 
eous use  among  them.  Saco,  sachem,  saguache, 
saguiam  etsego,  (which  the  English  used  to  pro- 
nounce hot-sago)  and  other  words,  all  meaning 
places  where  they  have  something  to  eat  are  but 
corruptions  or  deviations  from  the  same  root.  Sago 
is  Asiatic.  The  sago  tree  which  yields  the  ed  ble 
pith  is  native  in  the  East  Indian  islands.  Our 
Indians  must  have  brought  sago  with  them  from 
that  country.  Now  if  the  anthropological  or  some 
other  sultab'e  society  wou^d  follow  up  this  matter, 
perhaps  tbey  would  be  able  to  prove  that  our 
Indians  came  from  the  land  of  sago  in  the  East 
Indian  Archioelago,  and  thus  settle  a  much  mooted 
question. 

Our  Indians  have  never  been  accused  of  stupidity, 
but  have  often  shown  themselves  to  be  true  Ameri 


cans  by  their  ready  appreciation  of  a  good  thing 
when  they  had  it.  They  had  not  been  long  in  this 
country  before  they  found  out  that  American  Indian 
corn  was  far  better  than  East  Indian  sago,  and  so 
p'eased  were  they  with  the  discove-y  that — as  is 
proven  by  Catlin's  magnificent  work  on  the  North 
American  Indians,  and  by  the  writirgs  of  all  the 
poets  and  novelists  from  Longfellow  down  who  have 
drawn  their  particulars  from  that  source — they 
instituted  a  green  corn  dance  to  take  place  yearly 
upon  the  first  appearance  of  the  succu'ent  roasting- 
ears  of  which  the  following  pudding  is  made: 


454. 

American  Green  Corn  Pudding. 


Tuscarora  Puddinjr. 


A  "vegetable  entree"  or  entremet. 
3  pounds  of  green  corn. 
6  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

1  rounded  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
^  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 

2  eggs  and  8  yolks,  (or  6  eggs.) 
1  quart  of  milk. 

Use  tender  roasting-ears.  Free  them  carefully 
from  silk.  Shave  the  corn  from  the  cob  with  a  sharp 
knife  till  you  have  the  required  amount — nearly  two 
quarts.  Melt  the  butter  and  stir  it  in,  and  the 
seasonings.  Beat  the  eggs  and  milk  together;  mix 
all;  bake  in  a  four  quart  milk  pan  about  half  an 
hour  or  till  just  set  in  the  middle. 

465. 

Individual  Green  Corn  Pudding. 


Make  tulip-shaped  cups  of  the  lower  part  of  the 
green  corn  husks,  the  stem  being  cut  ofi'cose  and 
the  top  edges  ci't  rounded  with  a  pair  of  shears. 
Dip  the  cups  in  hot,  clear  butter.  Place  them  in 
gem  pans  of  suitable  size,  fill  with  the  orn  pud- 
ding preceding  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  from  10  to 
15  minutes  without  burning  the  husks  out  of  color. 
When  set  lift  the  puddings  out  of  the  gem  or  muf- 
fin-pans and  serve  in  the  husks  hot. 


As  the  green  corn  season  is  short,  canned  corn  has 
to  do  duty  for  it  most  of  the  year. 

Two  cans  of  the  so  called  two-pound  size  will 
make  the  preceding  amount  That  is  if  the  honest 
canned  corn  be  used,  which  is  solid  and  has  to  be 
dug  out  with  a  spoon.  When  your  house  "gets 
stuck,"  on  the  fraudulent  corn  and-water  put  up  by 
the  firm  that  dyes  mulberries  with  logwood,  for 
blackberries,  and  cans  the  logwood  chips  too,  then 
use  four  cans  instead  of  two;  drain  it  as  dry  as 
possible  and  mash  it  to  a  partial  paste,  to  imitate  the 
shaved  green  corn. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


109 


456.       Baked  Indian  Riohest. 

2  quarts  milk  and  12  ounces  corn  meal. 

10  ounces  of  butter. 

1  large  coflfee  cupful  of  molasses. 

1  large  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 

12  eggs  well  beaten. 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  kettle  and  make  mush  in 
it  of  the  milk  and  corn  meal  and  let  it  simmer  with 
the  steam  shut  in  an  hour  or  two.  Then  mix  in  the 
other  ingredients  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 


45  T.        Indian  Fruit  Puddingr. 

3  pints  of  milk  or  water. 
12  ounces  of  corn  meal. 
6  ounces  of  suet  chopped  fine. 
6  ounces  of  molasses  (small  cupful.) 
1  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 
6  eggs. 

^  pound  of  raisins. 
^  pound  of  currants. 
Sa't.     Cinnamon. 

Make  mush,  add  the  other  ingredients, 
a  slow  oven  about  an  hour. 


Bake  in 


458.      Baked  Indian  Puddingr. 


Cheap  and  Good. 

2  quarts  of  milk. 

f  pound  of  corn  meal. 

2  ounces  of  butter  or  minced  suet. 

6  ounces  of  molasses. 

1  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

5  eggs.    Little  salt. 

Make  the  mush  with  3  pints  of  the  milk,  add  the 
rest  cold,  and  the  other  ingredients.  Bake  about 
half  an  hour.  Three  heaping  pints  of  corn  meal 
mush  ready  made  will  do  as  well. 


459.  Boiled  Corn  Meal  Pudding. 


1  pound  of  corn  meal  (nearly  a  quart.) 

1  quart  of  milk. 

I  pound  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  chopped  suet. 

3  eggs.    Little  salt. 

1  lemon —  juice  and  grated  rind. 

1  teaspoonful  of  ginger,  ground  or  extract. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it ;  sprinVle  in 
the  meal  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  5  minutes.  Add 
the  other  ingredients.  Tie  up  in  a  bag  with  room 
enough  to  swell  to  nearly  twice  its  bulk;  boil  6 
hours. 

Butter  and  sugar  or  hard  sauce,  meringue  sauce, 
or  golden  sauce  are  most  suitable  for  the  three  pud- 
dings preceding. 

A  book  is  advertised  which  foretells  all  the  disas- 
ters that  will  befall  this  poor  earth  in  the  next  seven 


years.  Also,  at  the  same  time,  Scribner's  publishes 
an  article  presaging  to  hotel  people  the  calamity  of 
an  avalanche  of  dried  peaches.  Now,  wbat  have  we 
done  ?  It  may  be  all  very  true  abvUt  the  Delaware 
plains  being  "  the  peach  garden  of  the  continent, 
where  the  peach  trees  stand  in  rows  a  mi'e  long, 
luxuriating  in  a  warm  and  mellow  soil  and  a  genial 
cHmate,  and  every  farm  counts  its  hundreds  or 
thousands.  There  are  forests  of  twenty  thousand 
peach-trees  standing  in  prim  and  stately  lines. 
Some  large  estates  count  ten,  fificen,  or  twenty 
thousand  trees  in  one  block.  With  a  fair  crop 
there  will  be  five  million  baskets  of  peaches  on  these 
trees.  A  good  crop  will  yield  six  million  baskets — 
more  peaches  than  the  nation  can  eat  while  they  are 
in  good  condition  "  That  is  p'easant ;  so  is  this: 
"when,  in  April  days,  the  blossoms  of  these  million 
tree  i  foretoken  an  abundant  crop,  the  good  new^s  is 
telegraphed  over  the  country."  Yes,  it  is  good  news; 
everybody  glories  in  millions ;  we  all  love  plenty. 
It  is  the  conclusion  that  makes  us  unhappy.  There 
is  a  new  industry  springing  up.  They  have  learned 
how  to  dry  millions  of  baskets  as  peaches  as  easy  as 
rolling  off  a  log,  as  if  there  was  not  too  many  dried 
peaches  already.  The  dried  peach  is  a  g  od  thing 
abstractly  considered,  yet,  when  presented  in  a 
practical  shape  to  the  hotel  guest,  a  little  of  it  goes 
quite  a  long  way.  The  taste  for  it  has  to  be  culti- 
vated, and  it  is  tedious  work  for  the  coo'-s.  Dried 
peaches  keep  well,  but  it  does  hotel  people  no  par- 
ticular good  to  keep  them.  They  might  pay  the 
Indians  their  annuities,  perhaps,  in  dried  peaches, 
and  get  rid  of  the  Delaware  surplus  in  that  way. 
If  it  will  do  any  good  towards  checking  the  growing 
evil  to  show  how  to  use  up  peaches,  green  or  canned, 
here  are  a  few  ways  to  go  on  with,  and  some  more 
may  be  studied  up  after  awhile. 

460.    Delaware  Peach  Puddinaf. 

A  pastry  bottom,  peach  pudding  filling,  and  mer- 
ingue on  top. 

1  quart  of  ripe  peach  pulp. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
^  pound  of  sugar. 

A  dozen  peach  kernels  pounded  small. 

8  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  small  cup  of  cream, 

^  cup  of  peach  brandy  (optional.) 

Take  ripe  peeled  peaches  and  mash  with  the  Dack 
of  a  spoon  enough  to  make  a  heaping  quart.  Set  it 
to  stew  in  a  bright  saucepan  with  the  butter  and 
peach  kernels  in  it ;  mix  the  starch  and  sugar  to- 
gether dry,  stir  them  into  the  peach,  and  in  about  2 
minutes  remove  the  mixture  from  the  fire.  Be  t  in 
the  yolks  and  cream  and  brandy.  Line  two  shallow 
milk-pans  with  common  pie  paste,  pour  in  the  pud- 
ding to  be  about  1 J  inches  deep.  Bake  20  minutes 
Meringue  over  with  the  8  whites  beaten  and  6  ouncei 


110 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


of  sugar.  Canned  peaches  will  do  if  drained  from 
theirjuice.  When  stirred  over  the  fire  with  butter 
good  peaches  turn  creamy  yellow  and  remain  so. 

401.  Delaware  Peach  Meringue. 


Line  two  suitable  shallow  pudding-pans  with  pie 
paste  and  fill  in  three  inches  deep  with  halves  of 
ripe  peeled  peaches.  Strew  over  them  about  ^  pound 
of  white  sugir  to  each  pan  (or  half  the  weight  of  the 
peaches  in  sugar)  and  ^  pound  of  best  butter. 
Orate  a  little  nutmeg  over.  Bake  in  a 
slow  oven  abjut  half  an  hour,  with  paper  over 
if  in  danger  of  blackening  the  fruit.  There  should 
be  a  thick,  rich  syrup  of  the  peach  juice  and  sugar 
in  the  pans  and  the  fruit  transparent.  Spread  mer- 
ingue ever  while  still  in  the  oven,  and  dry-bake  that 
to  a  light  fawn  color.     Serve  either  hot  or  cold 

Not  only  in  Delaware  but  in  Maryland,  Virginia, 
Tennessee,  and  we  know  not  how  many  peach 
growing  states  beside,  the  kind  of  pie  to  be  next 
described  is  called  peach  cobbler.  Perhaps  it 
would  be  as  good  by  some  other  name,  but  being 
such  a  good  medium  for  disposing  of  too  plentiful 
fruit  its  familiar  name  that  it  can  be  readily  called 
by  had  best  not  be  tampered  with  The  French 
name  is  D'Artois — D' Artois  of  peaches  or  cherries, 
etc  ,  or  D'Artois  cake  Ihere  is  a  province  of 
Artois  in  France  which  possibly  may  be  as  great  a 
peach  country  as  little  Delaware.  But  the  proba 
bility  is  that  D'Artois  of  fruit  gained  its  name  from 
a  Count  D'Artois,  who,  they  do  say,  was  some  akin 
to  Marie  Antoinette.  The  English  would  scorn  to 
call  a  peach  cobbler  anything  but  a  peach  pie, 
but  as  they  cannot  grow  millions  of  baskets  of 
peaches — only  a  few  on  a  warm  south  wall — they 
are  not  good  authority  on  the  subject.  Lihe  apple 
and  peach  charlottes,  cobblers  are  good  either  in 
place  of  pudding  or  as  sweet  entrees. 

463.  

Peach  Cobbler  Southern  Style. 


D'Artois  de  Peches. 


A  large  pie  baked  in  a  shallow  baking  pan,  from 
1  to  2J  inches  in  depth,  with  bottom  and  top  crust, 
glazed  and  sugared  on  top  and  cut  out  in  square  or 
triangular  pieces. 

Fine  pufiF  paste  is  too  rich  for  this  purpose.  Ordi- 
nary flaky  pie  paste  made  with  10  or  12  ounces  of 
butter  to  a  pound  of  flour  is  best.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  the  pan  with  a  sheet  of  paste  rolled  quite  th  n. 
Fill  in  with  ripe  peeled  peaches,  strew  over  them 
half  their  weight  of  sugar  and  a  very  little  nutmeg. 
Cover  with  another  thin  sheet  of  paste  and  bake 
about  I  hour.  When  half  done  brush  over  the  top 
with  egg  and  water  and  strew  granulated  sugar 
over.  Put  back  and  bake  it  to  a  rich  color.  When 
the  fruit  is  too  dry  to  make  its  own  syrup  make  a 


sauce  to  go  with  the  cobbler.  All  sorts  of  fruit  and 
rhubarb  can  be  used  this  way.  Canned  fruit  should 
be  stewed  down  till  the  juice  becomes  thick  before 
being  put  iuo  the  paste  lined  pan. 


4G3. 


New  Orleans  Banana  Puddings. 


Jamaica  SoufiQes. 

PufiF  puddings  baked  in  candied  orange  rinds. 

When  oranges  are  used  for  jelly,  sherbets,  etc  , 
save  the  rinds  to  form  the  cups  or  cases  for  this  pur- 
pose. They  can  be  cut  as  melons  are  cut,  to  make 
ornamental  edges,  or  else  the  entire  peel  removed  by 
being  slit  part  way  down,  can  be  turned  back  to 
form  shapes  like  tiger-lilies.  Boil  the  rinds  in  sev- 
eral waters  till  tender,  and  the  butter  taste  is  all  ex- 
tracted; then  boil  in  thick  sugar  syrup;  drain,  roll 
in  sugar  and  set  them  to  dry  in  the  shape  required 
(ill  wanted. 

2  pounds  of  banana  pulp. 

f  pound  of  best  butter  (or,  olive  oil  with  salt.) 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

16  eggs,  less  four  whites  left  out. 

\  pint  of  brandy. 

^  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 

Place  the  two  pounds  of  mashed  banana  in  a 
bright  saucepan  with  the  butter,  sugar,  mace  and 
eight  yolkg  of  eggs,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  till 
cooked  to  a  sort  of  a  marmalade,  cool  it,  add  the 
other  eight  yolks  raw,  then  the  brandy  and  beat 
thoroughly;  then  mix  in  the  twelve  whites  whipped 
to  a  firm  froth.  Bake  in  the  orange  cups  on  a  but- 
tered pan,  in  a  slow  oven  about  ten  minutes.  Pow- 
dered sugar  flavored  with  vanilla  on  top.  Serve  as 
soon  as  done  The  rinds  if  skillfully  candied  with- 
out being  made  hard  are  a  pleasant  confection. 


It  is  difficult  to  make  anything  of  almonds  as 
good  as  it  ought  to  be  without  a  marb.e  mortar  and 
pestle  to  pound  them  to  a  paste  in. 

If  your  house  does  not  own  one,  a  porcelain 
potato-masher  and  small  deep  kette  may  have  to  do 
for  a  substitute. 

404.  

California  Almond  Puddingrs. 

Individual  or  Souffles. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

J  pint  of  water,  (a  cupful.) 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

1  pound  of  almonds. 
12  eggs. 

2  tablespooufuls  of  rose  water. 

A  few  bitter  almonds,  or  peach  kernels. 

Pound  the  almonds — after  scalding  and  peeling 
them — in  a  mortar  a  few  at  a  time  till  all  are  re- 
duced to  a  paste  at  least  as  fine  as  farina.     Moisten 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTRY  COOK, 


UX 


as  you  proceed  with  the  rose  water  to  prevent 
oiling.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  a  few  minutes  to 
form  a  strong  syrup.  Throw  in  the  butter,  then 
the  almond  paste,  then  six  yolks  of  eggs  and  stir 
till  it  cooks  thick — about  five  minutes.  Take  it  off, 
add  the  six  remaining  yolks  raw  and  beat  up  well. 
Then  the  twelve  whites  whipped  firm.  Bake  in  cups 
or  cases. 

Two  ounces  of  starch  added  to  the  syrup  along 
with  the  almond  paste  will  make  taller  puddings 
when  souflEles  are  wanted. 


Every  one  thus  far  has  been  a  week-day  pudding, 
that  is  to  say,  a  hot  pudding.  Now  a  few  are 
needed  of  another  class.  It  does  not  seem  to  be 
quite  well  enough  known  that  fashion  has  decreed 
it  to  be  vulgar  to  eat  hot  pudding  on  Sunday,  ex- 
cept at  a  railroad  eating  house,  and  it  is  vulgar  even 
there  when  the  pudding  is  very  hot  and  there  is  only 
ten  minutes  for  dinner.  The  railroad  companies  do 
their  part  to  guard  the  public  against  getting  into 
such  a  predicament  by  running  few  or  no  trains  on 
Sundays.  The  various  journals  of  civilization  never 
mention  this  new  decree  of  fashion  in  their  articles 
on  tab'e  manners  for  the  obvious  reason  that 
they  cater  only  to  the  intellectual  wants  of 
first-class  people  who  are  already  thor 
oughly  informed.  It  would  be  very  awkward 
for  those  journals  to  go  about  advising  people  not  to 
eat  hot  pudding  on  Sunday  who  never  do.  It  may 
be  a  little  absurd  to  mention  such  a  thing,  but  the 
cooks,  and  particularly  those  employed  in  hotels, 
are  quite  glad  that  hot  Sabbath  pudding  is  no  longer 
countenanced  by  the  best  people.  The  change  lets 
them  out  a  little,  and  the  result  has  not  been,  as 
some  imagined,  an  overcrowding  of  the  churches; 
many  of  those  released  professing  to  be  well  enough 
pleased  with  Strauss  and  Chopin,  Verdi  and  Beeth 
oven  in  a  so-called  beer-garden  Some  talk  about 
Whitfcier's  bro  ider  fiith  and  Bryant's  idea  of  the 
woods  being  God's  first  temples,  and  Byron's  pleas- 
ure in  the  pathless  woods  and  rapture  on  the  lonely 
shore,  or  something  of  the  sort.  At  any  rate  it  is 
said  they  do  better  and  more  careful  work  and  show 
more  natural  energy  and  less  pernicious  stimula- 
tion after  the  rest  afforded  through  the  abolition  of 
hot  Sabbath  pudding.  What,  then,  shall  there  be 
no  more  pudding  after  church?  Yes,  certainly 
there  shall  be  puddings  plenty  and  of  the  most 
delicate  and  delicious  descriptions  but  they  are  not 
good  unless  quite  cold. 

405.  

Chocolate  Custard  Meringue. 


2  quarts  of  rich  milk, 
f  pound  of  sugar. 

3  ounces  common  chocolate  grated. 
16  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract. 


Boil  the  sugar  and  grafed  chocolate  in  half  the 
milk  and  beat  till  the  chocolate  is  well  dis- 
solved. Separate  the  eggs  so  as  to  get  ten  or 
twelve  whites  for  the  meringue.  Beat  the  rest  of 
the  eggs  and  yolks  into  the  remaining  quart  of  cold 
milk,  pour  the  chocolate  milk  into  it;  flavor,  bake 
in  a  four  quart  milk-pan  or  dish  about  twenty  min- 
utes. Custards  are  curdled  and  made  watery  by  too 
long  baking.  As  soon  as  fairly  set  in  the  middle 
have  the  meringue  made  as  directed  in  manj  pre- 
vious cases,  ready  to  spread  over  the  top  while  stih 
hot  and  baking.  Sift  sugar  over  it  and  bake  about 
ten  minutes  with  the  oven  door  open.  To  be  eaten 
cold,  A  very  handsome  and  excellent  dish  when 
carefully  baked. 


The  above  may  be  cooked  and  served  in  custard 
cups  as  well.  The  annexed  directions  for  this  will 
apply  equally  to  several  succeeding  varieties. 


460. 

Chocolate  Custards  Meringues. 

Individual. 

Prepare  the  custard  preceding  with  the  best 
French  chocolate  and  useless  vanilla  extract.  Puur 
the  custard  in  cups,  place  them  in  a  steamer  and 
steam  fifteen  minutes,  taking  care  they  do  not  be- 
come cooked  enough  to  curdle.  Pile  the  meringue 
on  top  while  they  are  still  hot,  set  the  cups  in  a 
baking  pan  and  bake  the  tops  very  sMghtly.  They 
may  also  be  cooked  by  setting  in  a  pan  cf  water  in 
the  oven,  but  with  more  injury  to  the  cups  than  by 
steaming 


In  a  guessing  class  when  it  comes  to  guessing 
flavors,  they  always  slip  up  in  trying  to  guess  what 
gives  caramel  creams  and  custards  such  a  pleasant 
taste. 

46T.  

Caramel  Custard  Meringue. 


2  quarts  of  milk,  or  part  cream. 

f  pound  of  sugar. 

18  eggs. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  almond  extract. 

Four  ounces  of  the  sugar  is  to  make  the  caramel, 
which  must  not  be  black  like  that  used  for  coloring 
Put  the  sugar  in  a  little  brass  kettle  and  set  it  on 
the  fire  without  water.  It  will  melt  and  turn  brown. 
When  it  looks  like  golden  syrup  pour  in  a  quart  of 
the  milk  and  let  boil  till  the  caramel  is  dissolved. 

Separate  enough  of  the  eggs  io  get  out  ten  or 
twelve  whites  for  the  meringue  Beat  the  others 
into  the  remaining  quart  of  milk,  add  the  sugar  and 
flavor,  mix  in  the  caramel  milk  and  bake  till  barely 
set  in  the  middle.  If  not  wanted  meringued  use 
fewer  eggs.  It  is  less  necessary  io  meringue  this 
than  chocolate  custard,  which  does  not  look  well 
without. 


iia 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  CQOK. 


We  have  had  charlottes  and  apple  cakes  hot  and 
variously  made;  the  next  is  of  the  sort  of  articles 
that  are  better  than  they  look.  It  is  rich  enough  to 
be  eaten  cold. 

468.      Maryland  Apple  Cake. 

2  heaping  quarts  of  apples  in  quarters. 

f  pound  of  sugar — more  with  soUr  apples. 

f  pound  of  best  fresh  butter. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon. 

2  pounds  of  sweet  paste  for  the  crust. 

For  the  last  named  article,  '  home  folks"  use  com- 
mon cookie  dough,  hotel  cooks  use  sweet  tart  paste 
because  it  is  easier  to  bake  without  burning. 

Break  the  butter  in  bits  in  two  frying-pans,  set 
on  the  range,  and  when  melted  put  in  the  apples 
(pared  and  cored  of  course)  and  fry  them  slowly 
and  carefully  till  done.  Put  in  the  sugar  and 
ground  cinnamon  and  cook  a  little  longer.  The 
apples  are  expected  to  look  brown. 

Butter  a  baking-paA  and  lioe  it  with  the  sweet 
paste  rolled  out  thin;  put  in  the  apples  and  cover 
with  a  thin  crust.  Bake  as  long  as  you  can  with- 
out scorching — about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Turn  the  cake  out,  upside  down  on  a  board  or  sheet 
of  tin  and  cut  it  in  blocks  or  squares  to  serve 
Thick  cream  cold  is  the  best  sauce. 


Common  cookie  dough  for  the   preceding  is  made 
with: 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

}  pound  of  butter. 

3  eggs. 

^  cupful  of  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

And  1  pound  of  flour. 


Sweet  tart  paste  is  halfway  between  cake  and  pie- 
paste  and  better  than  common  paste  for  apple-cake 
and  many  other  articles,  such  as  shell  pies  to  be 
baked  the  day  before  and  filled  with  preserves. 


469. 


Sweet  Tart  Paste. 


1  pound  of  flour. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 
2  eggs. 

^  cupful  of  water, 

Rub  the  butter  thoroughly  into  the  flour  dry. 
Allow  a  little  salt  if  not  enough  in  the  butter. 
Break  the  eggs  in  the  middle,  add  the  sugar  and 
water,  mix  up  and  knead  smooth. 


4TO. 


Plain  Baked  Custard. 


2  quarts  of  milk  or  cream. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

24  yolks  of  eggs,  or  16  whole. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  or  lemon. 


Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together;  pour  in  the  milk 
and  extract.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan  about  twenty 
or  thirty  minutes. 

The  preceding  is  everybody's  acquaintance  and 
for  a  cold  pudding  is  excellent  without  sauce  or  any 
other  addition.  When  it  turns  watery  it  i3  because 
of  too  much  baking.  But  when  it  is  de*ired  to  add  to 
it  some  of  our  abundant  fruits,  which  would  har- 
monize with  it  so  well,  an  unpleasant  state  of  fluidity 
results  in  spite  of  careful  baking.  Then  the  cooks 
say  it  is  the  fault  of  water  in  the  milk,  and  blame 
the  cows  for  going  and  standing  in  the  river,  as  they 
are  known  to  do,  soaking  themselves  through  and 
through  for  hours  at  a  time.  The  difficulty  can 
be  overcome  and  a  nice  line  of  fruit  custards  made 
in  the  following  way. 

4T1. 

Ne"W  Providence  Pineapple  Custard. 

1  quart  of  cream. 
^  pound  of  sugar, 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
10  yolks  of  eggs. 

I  pound  of  pineapple. 

A  small  cup  of  milk  to  mix  the  starch. 

A  pinch  of  salt. 

Cut  the  pineapple  in  small  dice,  and  if  not  quite 
ripe  and  sweet  stew  it  in  some  syrup  formed  by  cov- 
ering it  with  white  sugar. 

Boil  the  cream  with  the  half  pound  of  sugar  in  it. 
Mix  the  starch  with  the  cup  of  mil's;  pour  the  boil- 
ing cream  to  that,  causing  it  to  thicken  without  be- 
ing quite  cooked;  beat  the  yolks  and  stir  in,  and 
then  the  pineapple.    Bake. 


47S.  California  Cherry  Custard. 


Make  a  thick  compote  of  white  cherries  by  stew- 
ing two  quarts,  pitted,  with  f  pound  of  sugar  and 
half  cup  of  water  till  the  juice  is  reduced  to  thick 
syrup.  Spread  this  in  a  thick  layer  over  the  bot- 
tom of  a  four-quart  pan.  Make  the  custard  accord- 
ing to  the  receipt  preceding,  pour  it  over  the  ch  rries 
and  bake  as  usual.  To  dish  up  place  a  spoonful  of 
cream  in  the  ice-cream  saucer  and  a  neat  spoonful  of 
the  cherry  custard  in  that. 

473.     Virginia  Cherry  Custard. 

With  red  morello,  or  black  cherries.  Butter  the 
bottom  of  a  four-quart  milk-pan,  place  in  it  two 
quarts  of  pitted  cherries  and  their  juice  and  one 
pound  of  sugar  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  till  the 
cherries  will  adhere  to  the  pan  and  not  mix  with 
the  custard.  Make  a  plain  egg  custard  of  one 
quart  of  milk  and  12  yolks  and  four  ounces  of 
sugar,  pour  on  top  of  the  cherries  and  bake. 
Serve  cold  with  cream. 


1?HB  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


313 


474.     Sonoma  Grape  Custard. 

Make  a  corn  Btarch  custard  as  directed  for  bak- 
ing with  pineapples  and  when  ready  for  the  oven 
mix  in  a  quart  or  more  of  white  muscat  grapes, 
washed  but  not  preyiously  cooked  Bake  as  usual. 
Serve  cold. 


Bartlett  pears  quite  ripe  can  be  used  in  the  same 
way  as  white  grapes.  Apples  should  be  cooked  as 
directed  for  red  cheriies. 


415. 


Compiegne  Pudding. 


Savoy  Float.    Gipsy  Pudding. 


Make  a  jelly  cake  composed  of  two  sheets  of 
sponge  cake  baked  with  grahulated  sugar  on  top  to 
formed  a  glazed  surface,  and  red  currant  jelly 
spread  between  and  when  to  be  used  set  it  floating 
in  two  quarts  of  ice-cold  boiled  custard  flavored 
with  vanilla.  May  be  served  whole  in  a  glass  bowl 
or  by  epocnfuls  in  saucers  with  plenty  of  the  cus- 
tard for  sauce. 


ADDENDA. 


Queen  Mab's  pudding  it  is  not  unlikely  may  have 
been  the  predecessor  of  well-known  charlotte  russe 
The  writer  remembers  first  seeing  the  name  in  a 
little  cook-book  by  a  titled  lady,  that  must  have 
been  published  half  a  century  ago.  It  has  since 
reappeared  in  many  places.  Queen  Mab's  pud 
ding,  is  a  charlotte  made  by  lining  a  mould  with 
lady-fingers  striped  with  red  jelly,  and  filling  with 
the  gelatine  cream  that  is  variously  called  lemon 
cream,  velvet  cream,  {creme  veloute),  jaune-mange, 
and  perhaps  others  names.  It  is  not  the  purpose 
here  to  enter  into  the  methods  and  merits  of  gela 
tine  creams,  and  a  short  course  will  be  taken  with 
this: 


4T6.       Queen  Mab's  Pudding. 


Individual  Charlottes 


Spread  some  small  lady-fingers  thickly  with  firm 
red  currant  jelly  and  place  by  twos  together,  then 
cut  them  lengthwise  into  stripes  and  line  custard 
cups  with  these  so^that  there  will  be  red  and  yellow 
stripes  all  round  for  the  outside  They  may  be 
kept  in  position  by  slightly  wetting  the  edges  of  the 
cake  in  white  of  egg.  It  is  well  enough  for  pre- 
caution to  wipe  out  the  cups  first  with  a  touch  cf 
olive  oil. 

For  the  filling  make  a  rich  boiled  custard.  To 
each  quart  allow  an  ounce  of  gelatine,  (it  used  to  be 
isinglass),  dissolved  in  water  separate,  or  beaten  in 
the  milk  while  on  the  fire,  which  is  the  shorter  way. 


Favor  with  lemon.  Strain.  When  cold  and  so 
nearly  set  that  the  cakes  cannot  rise  and  float  in  it 
pour  this  lemon  cream  into  the  lined  cups,  set  on 
ice  and  turn  them  out  when  firm.  May  be  orna- 
mented on  top  with  jelly  and  whipped  cream  around 
in  the  saucers. 


Corrections. 


The  bread  custard  receipt,  and  a  few  others  like 
it  near  the  beginning  of  this  book  should  have 
been  written,  two  slightly  pressed  quarts  of  bread 
crumbs,  instead  of  pressed  in  or  full-pressed. 
While  a  loose  quart  of  bread  crumbs  has  sc;ircly 
any  weight  it  is  found  on  the  other  hand  that 
pastry  cooks  coming  down  on  it  with  a  pressure  of 
fifty  pounds  to  the  square  inch  make  much  more  of 
a  cake  and  much  less  of  a  custard  than  the  writer 
does  of  the  same  receipt. 

Also  the  few  people  who  know  how  to  cook  rice 
dry,  as  it  ought  to  be,  will  probably  find  the  rice 
custard  pudding  requires  in  their  hands  about  a 
pint  more  milk. 

Use  less  baking-powder  than  is  directed  for  Cot- 
tage Pudding.  The  amount  there  specified  is 
enough  for  twice  the  quantity.  See  variations  and 
adulterations  of  baking-powder  in    Book  of  Breads 


There  has  been  a  painstaking  effort  throughout 
this  entire  series  to  make  each  and  every  receipt  so 
reliable  that  any  person  might  choose  among  them 
with  a  reasonable  certainty  of  success  as  complete 
on  the  first  trial  as  at  any  subsequent  time. 


4T7.    "Home-Made"  Pudding  Sauce,  or 
Sugar  Dip. 

1  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 

1  cupful  of  hot  water. 

J  cupful  of  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour. 

Mix  flour  and  sugar  together  dry,  pour  the  water 
to  them,  add  the  butter,  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it 
boils.    The  sauce  should  be  thick. 


QUEEN  MAB'S  PUDDING. 


114 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Simple  Syrup  Pudding  Sauce. 


4TT.  

2  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 

1  pint  of  water. 

Boil  them  together  in  a  clean,  bright  kettle,  or 
new  tin  pan.     Skim  and  strain  for  use. 

The  above  is  often  used  p'ain  and  unflavored  as 
Bauce  for  steamed  pudding,  pancakes,  frijtters,  pud- 
dings of  green  fruit,  etc. 

478.  Wine  Sauce  for  Puddings. 


2  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 

1  teacupful  of  water, 

1  pint  of  wine. 

1  dozen  whole  cloves. 

^  a  lemon. 

1  blade  of  mace. 

Melt  the  sugar  in  the  cup  of  water  on  the  fire 
taking  care  it  does  not  burn  while  dissolving.  Throw 
in  the  spices  and  the  lemon  cut  in  bits — the  seeds 
excluded — and  let  simmer  to  draw  the  flavors. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  add  the  wine,  then  strain. 
It  should  not  boil  after  the  wine  is  added. 


The  foregoing  is  not  quite  a  simple  matter,  or  one 
for  set  instructions.  Color  is  desirable  in  most  cases 
and  the  wine  is  not  always  sufficient.  Then  ar- 
tificial means  must  be  employed.  The  wines  of  Cal- 
ifornia are,  happily,  coming  into  use  cheap  enough 
for  such  purposes  as  these,  and  with  the  probabilities 
in  favor  of  their  purity.  They  are  not  always  of 
desirable  color.  Burnt  sugar  caramel  will  make 
your  sauce  sherry  or  madeira  color.  Carmine,  which 
is  the  coloring  principal  of  cochineal,  will  make  a 
handsome  claret  color,  'provided  there  be  lemon 
juice  or  any  acid  in  the  sauce,  otherwise  it  is  apt  to 
make  an  unpleasant  purple.  Caramel  and  carmine 
mixed  make  port  wine  color  ;  but  let  the  tints  be 
weak  rather  than  be  overdone. 

Pudding  sauces  could  perhaps  be  classified  in  four 
divisions,  but  they  ought  not,  because  it  may  almost 
be  said  the  more  unmethodical  our  methods  in  this 
line  can  be  the  better.  Not  of  course,  the  methods 
of  making  sauces,  but  of  their  application.  This 
matter,  almost  inexplicable,  it  will  be  our  task  to 
talk  at  and  around  about  in  a  succeeding  column. 

The  sauces  at  present  touched  upon  it  will  be 
observed  have  had  nothing  in  them  to  give  body  to 
their  linked  sweetness  but  pure  sugar  and  for  richness 
only  wine.  So  when  more  wine  is  used  or  when 
fruit  or  fruit  juice  instead,  more  sugar  has  to  be 
added  for  thickening  for  sweetened  water  or  liquor 
is  not  desirable  for  anything  but  a  French  beverage 
They  tell  of  a  notable  Frenchman  who  was  so  de- 
lighted when  loaf  sugar  was  first  made  that  he 
declared  when  the  price  got  down  to  two  francs  per 


pound  he  would  drink  nothing  but  sugar-and- 
water.  Surely  sod  i-fou mains  and  raspberry  and 
pineapple  syrups  had  never  then  been  thought  of 
else  why  such  a  homely  fancy? 


4T9. 

Pineapple    or 


Raspberry     Sauce    for 
Puddings. 


2  pounds  of  sugar. 

J  pint  of  pineapple  juice  or  syrup  made  by  steep- 
ing the  slices,  or  of  liquor  from  the  cans. 

^  pound  of  pineapple  in  shreds 

J  pint  of  port  or  claret  wine. 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  pineapple  juice.  Bring 
to  a  boil,  strain,  then  add  the  wine  and  pineapple, 
keep  hot  without  boiling. 

Instead  of  the  wine  h?ilf  a  pint  of  water  and  a 
few  drops  of  red  coloring — to  m*ke  the  sauce  pink 
only — can  be  used. 


Red  raspberries  can  be  used  in  the  place  of  pine- 
apple with  the  diflference  that  the  berries  should  be 
dropped  singly  into  the  boiling  syrup  while  it  is  still 
thick  and  never  be  stirred.  In  this  way  they  retain 
their  proper  shape  while  coloring  and  flavoring  the 
syrup.     No  wine  needed. 

Very  handsome  sauces  of  other  kinds  of  fruit  are 
made  in  the  way  above  indicated,  by  adding  it  to  a 
strong  syrup  made  with  ha'f  fruit  juice  aud  half 
water.  White  sweet  grapes  which  furnish  no  syrup 
may  be  used  to  advantage  thrown  whole  into  boiling 
wine  sauce. 


480. 


Lemon  Syrup  Sauce. 


2J  pounds  of  sugar. 

3  lemons. 

1  pint  of  water. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  on  a  tin  grater  and 
scrape  the  zest  with  a  fork  into  the  sugar.  Squeeze 
the  juice  in  without  the  seeds  Add  water,  boil  up 
and  pass  through  a  fine  strainer.  One  of  the  best 
sauces  for  pancakes  and,  if  made  a  little  less  acid, 
for  tapioca  and  all  farinaceous  and  cake  puddings. 

481.         Orange  Syrup  Sauce. 


2  pounds  of  sugar. 

2  oranges. 

1  lemon. 

IJ  cups  of  water. 

Make  same  as  lemon  syrup. 

The  sauce  preceding  mixed  with  one  third  curacao 
is  the  proper  sauce  for  Savarin  pudding,  to  be 
poured  into  the  pudding  or  cake  hot. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


lis 


48! 


Curacao  Sauce. 


Sauce  au  Curacao. 


Curacao  is  a  cordial  made  by  steeping  orange  peel 
in  proof  spirit  and  then  adding  to  the  flavored  spirit 
three  times  as  much  simp'e  syrup.  It  is  brandy 
colored.  As  a  substitute  make  the  clear  syrup 
sauce,  the  first  of  this  series  with  a  few  cloves  and 
some  orange  peel  grated  in  it.  Boil,  strain  and  add 
half  pint  or  less  of  good  brandy. 


483. 


Maraschino  Sauce. 


Sauce  au  Marasquin. 


Maraschino  is  made  by  steeping  blac'i  cherry 
seeds  in  proof  spirit  a  long  time,  and  adding  to  the 
flavored  spirit  three  times  as  much  simp'e  syrup 
It  is  c'earaod  colorless  for  a  substitute  make  the  sim- 
ple syrup  wiih  the  juice  of  canned  white  cherries — a 
pint  to  two  pounds.  Strain,  flavor  slightly  with  peach 
or  almond  extract,  and  add  a  quarter  pint  of  gia.  Ex 
cellent  for  steamed  puddings,  rice  and  farina  cat  es 
and  fried  cream  fritters. 


As  long  as  butter  and  honey,  silver  drips  and 
map'e  syrup  are  applied  in  such  lavish  proportions 
to  ho' el  waffles,  hot  breads  and  cakes  as  is  the 
present  custom  there  will  be  no  reason  to  make 
excuse  for  the  excessive  sweetness  of  these  clear 
syrup  sauces.  Rich  as  they  are  they  can  go  a  degree 
higher  for  such  things  as  sponge  puddings  and 
boiled  puddings  of  flour. 


484. 


Transparent  Sauce. 


2  pounds  of  granulated  sugrr, 

1  pint  of  water. 

4  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

^  a  lemon. 

1  tablespoonful  of  whole  spices — consistiug  of 
blades  of  mace,  cloves,  stick  cinnamon  and  alspice. 

Boil  all  together  ten  minutes — the  lemon  cut  in 
pieces — then  strain  through  a  fine  strainer.  The 
j  nice  of  the  lemon  is  essential  to  brighten   the  color 

of  the  sauce,  

485.  Raisin  Sauce. 


For  macaroni  puddings  and  timhales  make  a  sauce 
like  the  preceding  and  stew  J  pound  raisins  in  it. 
Use  the  raisins  as  a  garnish  with  the  sauce. 

And  then  the  transparent  sauce  goes  still  further. 

486.  

Brandy  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding. 


Making  the  rich  transparent  sauce  as  above 
directed  and  add  to  it  after  straining,  J  pint  of 
brandy  and  do  not  boil  afterwards.  If  to  be  set  on 
fire  when  the  pudding  is  sent  in  another  ha  f  pint 
of  b/andy  is  required.  Make  it  hot  and  pour  it  on 
top  of  the  other  sauce  without  mixing,  then  set  on 
fire  with  a  pine  splinter. 


48T. 


White  Sauce. 


Silver  Sauce.    Sauce  au  Vin  Blano* 


1  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  butter,  (large     cup). 

^  cupful  hot  water. 

J  cupful  of  brandy,  or  else  nearly  J  pint  of  wine 
and  no  water. 

Warm  the  butter  slightly  in  a  bright  pan,  put  the 
sugar  with  it  and  cream  them  by  rubbing  together 
as  if  for  cake.  Then  set  it  on  the  range  and  while 
beating  with  an  egg-whisk  in  one  hand  pour  in  the 
brandy  and  water  or  wine  with  the  other.  When 
hot  enough  to  s^rve  it  is  ready.  It  must  not  boil,  as 
that  destroys  its  silvery  whiteness  and  makes  a  gray 
syrup  of  it.  Takes  but  a  few  minutes  and  should  be 
made  last  thing.  Good  for  souffle  puddings  of  fruit, 
drop  dumplings  and  boibd  puddings. 


488. 


Maple  Syrup  Sauce. 


Map'e  syrup  made  hot,  a  little  fresh  butter  stirred 


in. 


489.     Maple  Sauce.     Imitation. 


Golden  syrup  made  hot,  two    ounces  of  butter  to 
each  quart  ani  flavuriog  of  vanilla  and  nutmeg 


Olace,  ice,  glace,  glass,  g^aze,  gloss;  glacS,  iced, 
glazed,  glossed  over. 

That  is  all  very  slippery.  When  a  biil-of-fare  in- 
stead of  saying  a  dish  has  a  sauce  describes  it  as 
glac4  the  glossy  sauce  is  required  to  be  thick 
enough  to  coat  the  article  and  barely  run  enough  to 
sett  e  down  smooth.  With  all  sugar  sauces  lite  the 
list  preceding  it  is  hardly  practicable— they  would  be 
almost  candy.     The  next  sett  are  better  for  gloss. 

490.    Corn  Starch  Syrup  Sauce. 


Wine  Sauce. 


Substitute  for  the  clear  syrup  and  many  other 
flavored  sauces.  Takes  only  half  the  amount  of 
sugar. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  cornstarch. 
1  quart  of  water— scant. 
1  lemon. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

A  b'ade  of  mace  and  few  cloves. 

^  pint  of  wine. 

Boil  the  water  with  the  lemon  sliced  small  in  it — 
the  seeds  having  been  carefully  excluded.  Mix  the 
starch  in  the  sugar  dry  ;  then  stir  them  quickly  in- 
to the  boiling  lemon  water  and  let  boil  6  minutes. 
Then  beat  in  the  butter  and  add  the  wine.  Strain 
for  use. 


lie 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


401. 


Sauce  Millefleurs. 


1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
1  pint  of  water. 

1  pint  of  thick  sweet  cream. 

J  cup  of  red  fruit  syrup. 

Various  flavorings. 

The  making  of  this  sauce  will  be  best  understood 
by  the  explanation  that  it  is  a  pearly  cream  sauce 
with  a  mixture  of  several  agreable  flavors.  It  should 
be  pearl  pink.  Of  old,  when  the  spices,  almonds, 
lemon  zest,  and  flavors  of  nectarine  and  peach  h  id  to 
be  prepared  separately  this  sauce  .became  a  serious 
affair.  Now,  by  boiling  cinnamon,  c'oves  and 
grated  peel  in  the  pint  ot  water,  btirriug  in  the 
sugar  and  starch,  then  the  cream,  and  j  udiciously 
adding  drops  of  various  extracts  the  sauce  can  be 
made  as  good  as  need  be  in  a  few  minutes.  It  must 
be  strained,  of  course. 


49tS.  Raspberry  Vinegar  Sauoe. 


Vinaigre  Framboise. 


The  various  fruit  vinegars  used  extensively  for 
aauces  and  beverages  in  Europe  are  but  little  enquir- 
ed for  in  the  United  States,  but  probably  need  only 
to  be  better  known  to  be  appreciated.  The  native 
wild  raspberry  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  its 
peculiar  aromatic  flavor  and  bright  scarlet  color  and 
juice  doubtless  cantains  new  possibilities  in  relishes 
and  confections,  and  could  be  cultivated  to  an  unlim 
ited  extent  among  its  native  barrens.  During  is 
short  season  in  the  towns  about  which  it  grows  it  has 
no  rival  among  fruits  and  brings  a  higher  price  than 
any  other. 

To  make  raspberry  vinegar,  ha-f  fill  a  stone  jar 
with  ripe  raspberries  of  any  kind,  and  pour  in  pure 
cider  vinegar  enough  to  a  little  more  than  cover 
them.  Let  stand  in  a  warm  place  twenty-four 
hours.  Mash  the  berries  in  the  jar;  strain  and 
press  through  a  cloth  and  then  run  the  liquor 
through  the  flannel  jelly  bag.  To  each  pint  allow  a 
pound  of  sugar  if  for  present  use  or  two  pounds  if 
to  be  bottled.  Boil  and  skim  and  it  is  ready  for  use 
when  made  cold.  It  can  be  kept  in  preserving  jars 
or  cans  a  long  time,  put  up  in  the  usual  manner,  or 
in  stone  jugs,  sealed  while  hot  and  painted  outside 
to  exclude  air 


**Mio  amico,  why  do  you,  residing  in  the  Boule- 
vard des  Italiens,  Pays  Culinaire,  yet  writing  French, 
caU  that  sambaoine  which  the  French  ca  1  sabayon, 
even  when  writing  Fiench?" 

"Only  because  the  French  themselves  call  the  same 
thing  by  two  different  names.  The  sauce  or  hot  spirit- 
uous beverage  is  of  Italian  origin ,  and  has  come  down 
from  the  time  when  Italian  cookery  was  in  the 
ascendent,  but  the  Italian  spelling  is  sambaojney  the 
j  being  pronounced  like  i." 

Then  I  asked  my  meal-colored  German  elf  what 
in  his  country  they  know  about  sabayon.  He 
answered  :  "Why  that  is  dreifutz\ — only" — he  adds, 
"when  made  slightly  different  with  wine  it  is 
schatto** 

Then  I  asked  the  great  Columbian  oracie  and  he, 
smilingly  answered,  *  why  that  is  scarcely  different 
from  Thomas  and  Jeremiah, — only  we  do  not  cook 
our  tom-and-jerry  quite  so  much  as  you   cooks  do." 

Then  I  went  to  an  expert  Englishman  and  asked 
him — "Say,  Johnny!  what  is  tbat  sauce  you  make 
for  plum  pudding  when  you  don' t  have  the  common 
brandy  sauce?" 

"That,"  says  he,  "is  German  Custard  Sauce," 

"What  is  its  French  name?" 

"Sabayon." 

Enough  said.  They  are  distinctions  without 
much  difference.  The  confusion  comes  from  the 
same  compound  being  mentioned  in  a  Babel  of  many 
tongues.  If  an  intelligent  person  but  learn  the 
base  he  can  build  up  as  many  variations  as  he  please, 
himself. 

The  base  may  be  learned  by  boiling  a  quart  of 
Rhine  wine,  throwing  in  sugar  enough  to  pleasantly 
sweeten,  and  a  little  spice  ;  then  stirring  in  enough 
beaten  yolks  to  thicken  it  to  a  custard-like  consis- 
tency— about  10  yolks  to  a  quart — and  taking  off 
before  it  quite  boils.  Mulled  wine,  a  hot  beverage, 
is  an  elaboration  of  this,  having  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  to  a  froth  and  stirred  into  the  nearly 
boiling  mixture  the  minute  before  serving. 


40». 


Sauce   Sabayon. 


For  plum  puddings,  fritters,  etc. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

12  yolks  of  eggs. 

^  pint  of  sherry  or  other  wine. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  in  a  deep  sauce- 
pan as  if  making  egg-nogg.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the 
range  ;  stir  in  the  wine  a  little  at  a  time,  and  then 
with  the  egg-whisk  whip  the  mixture  to  a  froth  till 
it  has  become  hot  and  begins  to  thicken.  It  must 
not  quite  boil,  and  ought  to  be  made  only  just  be- 
fore it  is  needed.  Either  powdered  cinnamon,  vanilla, 
or  extracts  can  be  added  for  flavor.  Brandy  or  rum 
mixed  with  the  wine  is  generally  considered  an  ia- 
provement. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


117 


404.     Raspberry  Butter  Sauce 

Only  bright  red  juice  should  be  used — not  purple 
The  juice  of  red  currants  or  light  red  chenies  doe-* 
instead  of  light  raspberries. 

IJ  pounds  of  powdered  sugar. 

f  pound  of  fresh  butter. 

^  pint  of  red  fruit  juice. 

This  is  a  hard  sauce  colored  red.  Have  the  fruit 
juice  cold. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  slightly 
warm  and  add  the  juice  slowly  while  beating,  like 
▼inegar  to  a  mayonaise,  so  as  not  to  iiqnify  it. 
Keep  on  ice  till  wanted. 


495. 


Sauoe    Doree. 


Golden  Sauce. 


1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
1  quart  of  water. 

4  ounces  of  best  fresh  butter. 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 
1  nutmeg. 

Break  the  nutmeg  in  pieces  and  boil  it  in  the  quart 
of  water. 

Mix  starch  and  sugar  together  dry  and  stir  them 
in.  When  cooked  beat  in  the  butter;  beat  the  yolks 
with  a  spoonful  of  sauce  and  add  them  with  rapid 
beating  to  the  sauce,  which  should  b?  immediately 
taken  from  the  fire  and  not  allowed  to  boil  the  yolks. 
Strain  for  use. 


400. 


Lemon  Butter  Sauce. 


1  quart  of  water. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 
2  ounces  of  butter. 

2  lemons. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  both  lemons  into  the  water  and 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  only  one,  unless  quite  small. 
That  being  the  flavoring  instead  of  nutmeg  make  the 
sauce  in  other  respects  as  directed  for  the  golden 
Bauce  preceding. 


49T. 


Meringue  Sauoe. 
Creamed  Butter  Sauoe. 


1 J  pounds  of  powdered  sugar. 

^  pound  of  butter, 

8  whites  of  eggs. 

J  cup  of  brandy. 

Make  the  hard  sauce  as  directed  in  two  preceding 
cases  with  only  one  pound  of  the  sugar.  Whip  the 
whites  quite  firm,  lightly  mix  in  the  remaining 
sugar,  then  stir  both  mixtures  together  and  add  the 
brandy.     Make  it  late  and  keep  on  ice  till  wanted. 


498. 


Sauoe  Eoumante. 


Foaming   Sauoe,  Sabayon. 


Frenoh  Custard  Sauce. 

1  pound  of  sugar. 

6  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

2  eggs. 

^  pint  of  madeira  or  sherry. 

^  t.'aspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

Proceed  at  first  as  if  making  cake,  to  warm  the 
butter  and  sugar,  and  cream  them  together  with 
the  cinnamon  and  the  2  eggs  in  a  deep  saucepan. 
Taen  set  the  mixture  over  the  fire  and  while  stirring 
it  as  it  becomes  warm  pour  in  the  wine  a  little  at  a 
time  till  all  is  in.  With  an  egg-whisk  then  beat  up 
the  eauce  till  it  becomes  quite  frothy  and  begins  to 
thicken.  It  must  not  quite  boil.  Should  be  made 
only  just  before  it  is  to  be  used. 


499. 


Custard  Sauce— Plain. 


1  quart  of  rich  milk. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 

8,  10,  or  12  yolks  of  eggs. 

Flavor  to  suit,  or  wine. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  sugar  in  it.  Beat  the  yolks 
light  with  a  little  milk  mixed  in.  Turn  them  quickly 
into  the  boiling  milk  and  in  about  cne  minute  or 
jusl  before  it  begins  to  boil  take  off  and  strain  it. 
The  best  sauce  when  ice-cold  for  snow  eggs,  lemon 
snow  float,  fruit  floats  and  gipsy  pudding. 


500. 


Hot  Cream  Sauce. 


For  drop  dumplings,  etc. 

1  quart  of  thin  cream, 

f  pound  of  sugar. 

1  ounce  of  butter. 

1  ounce  of  starch,  (a  heaping  tab'espoonfull  ) 

Flavoring  of  broken  nutmeg  or  stick  cinnamon. 

Boil  the  milk  with  the  piece  of  cinnamon  and  half 
the  sugar  in  it — the  sugar  prevents  burning — and 
stir  in  the  rest  of  the  sugar  with  the  starch  mixed  in 
it  dry.  When  cooked  thick  beat  in  the  butter  and 
strain  for  use. 
501,      "Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

Sauce  a  la  Chantilly. 

1  quirt  of  thick  sweet  cream. 

4,  6,  or  8  ounces  of  sugar. 

^  pint  of  sweet  wine — such  as  raiain,  caniry,  Cali- 
fornia angelic  I,  or  Madeira. 

Vanil'a,  rose,  almond  or  any  othei  flavor  Ai  may 
be  required. 

Have  the  cream  cold  and  whip  to  a  partial  froth 
as  wanted,  cither  in  a  whip-churn  or  deep  bowl  set 
in  ice. 


1X8 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


602. 


Paper  Cases  for  Individual 
Charlottes, 


jrrocure  half  a  dozen  sheets  of  cap  or  fine  book 
paper,  which  is  like  writing  paper  not  ruled,  and 
make  a  pattern  for  the  paper  cases  by  fitting  a  band 
of  paper  to  the  outside  of  a  very  small  tumbler, 
such  as  is  used  for  Roman  punch,  or  some  similar 
small  shape.  The  band  of  paper,  when  cut  to  fit, 
will  form  a  curve.  Cut  as  many  such  pieces  as  are 
needed  from  the  sheets,  and  then,  placing  three  or 
four  together,  cut  both  top  and  bottom  edges  into 
fringe  a  quarter  of  an  inch  or  less  in  depth.  Make 
some  corn  starch  paste  very  stiff,  and  paste  the  ends 
of  the  bands  together,  forming  cup  shapes,  then  cut 
around  the  edges,  press  the  fringe  bottom  edges  of 
the  cups  on  to  the  paste,  the  fringe  bent  outward, 
and  the  shapes  are  made. 


503.  Strawberry  Charlottes  in  Cases 
'or  Fifty. 

Having  prepared  50  paper  cases  of  about  the 
capacity  of  very  small  tumblers,  according  to  the 
directions  in  the  preceding  article;  next  bake  6 
sheets  of  cake  of  any  kind  that  is  suitable  to  roll  up, 
or  of  the  following,  which  is  right  in  quantity  for  50 
small  charlottes. 

3  rounded  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  —  1^ 
pounds. 

15  eggs. 

i  cup  of  water. 

4  rounded  cupfuls  of  flour — 18  ounces. 
Separate  the  eggs.      Beat  the  yolks,  sugar  and 

water  rapidly  for  ten  minutes. 

Have  the  flour  weighed  or  measured  ready 
Whip  the  whites  perfectly  firm.  Stir  the  flour  into 
the  beaten  yolks,  and  the  whipped  whites  last. 

Spread  thinly  on  sheets  of  blank  paper  not 
greased,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  about  6  minutes. 

Careful  baking  is  required,  because  if  dried  or 
burnt  the  cake  will  break. 

Brush  the  paper,  under  side,  with  water,  and  it 
can  be  pulled  off  the  cake.  Should  any  of  the  sheets 
become  too  dry  to  roll  or  bend  in  spite  of  care  in 
baking,  lay  them  on  top  of  each  other  after  wetting 
the  paper,  and  let  lie  so  half  an  hour. 

Cut  out  the  pieces  of  cake  by  the  same  paper  pat- 
tern the  shapes  were  cut  by,  but  a  trifle  shorter,  and 
put  the  lining  of  cake  in  the  paper  cases.  No 
bottom  of  cake  is  needed,  but  little  square  pieces 
can  be  pushed  down  inside  if  wished. 

A  short  time  before  serving  fill  the  charlottes  with 
the  cream  intended  for  the  purpose. 


504.  Strawberry  Whipped  Cream  for 
Fifty. 

1  quart  of  red  strawberries. 
3  pints  of  thick  sweet  cream. 
1  pound  of  sugar — 2  cupfuls. 
IJ  ounces  of  gelatine — a  package. 


Cover  the  fruit  with  the  sugar  in  a  bowl,  mash 
together  and  rub  through  a  seive. 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  cup  of  milk  extra,  in  a 
small  vessel  set  in  a  place  where  it  will  warm  gradu- 
ally. When  the  gelatine  is  dissolved  put  the  cream 
into  a  pail  or  pan,  take  the  large  wire  egg  whisk  and 
whip  it  to  a  froth,  pour  in  the  gelatine,  and  continue 
whipping,  with  the  pan  set  on  ice;  then  add  the 
strawberry  pulp  or  syrup,  and  when  it  is  firm 
enough,  and  before  it  is  quite  set,  fill  the  individual 
charlottes  with  it,  well  piled  above  the  edge 

Cream  without  fruit,  and  only  flavored  with 
strawbeiry  extract,  does  not  need  any  gelatine. 


505. 


Peaches  and  Cream. 


The  harder  kinds  of  peaches  should  be  chopped  to 
the  size  of  strawberries  and  mixed  with  sugar  two  or 
three  hours  before  the  meal.  Allow  about  four 
ounces  of  sugar  to  a  quart.  Soft  peaches,  after  peel- 
ing, are  best  only  quartered  or  sliced.  If  admissible, 
serve  them  in  large  glass  bowls  ornamented  with 
quarters  of  red  or  yellow  peaches  placed  in  order 
and  a  pitcher  of  cream  with  each  bowl  separately. 
If  served  individually  in  saucers,  pour  the  cream 
over  only  as  they  are  dished  up. 


506. 


Compote  of  Apples, 


This  is  but  another  term  for  apples  stewed  in 
syruf).  A  compote  of  fruit  is  understood  to  be  dif- 
ferent from  stewed  fruit,  in  being  richer  with  sugar 
and  the  fruit  being  either  whole  or  in  large  pieces. 

Fine  ripe  apples  of  a  kind  that  have  proved  to  be 
good  to  cook  make  a  delightful  sweet  dish  for  tea  in 
this  way: 

4  large  apples. 

]  cupful  of  sugar. 

i  cupful  of  water. 

Piece  of  orange  peel  or  lemon  peel,  or  cloves,  or 
stick  cinnamon  for  flavoring. 

Put  the  sugar,  orange  peel  and  water  on  to  boil  in 
a  deep  saucepan.  Pare  the  apples,  cut  each  one  in 
three  and  cut  out  the  cores.  Drop  three  or  four 
pieces  at  a  time  into  the  boiling  syrup,  and  let  sim- 
mer about  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  done  and  almost 
transparent ;  take  them  out  with  a  fork,  and  cook 
some  more  in  the  same  syrup,  and  so  on  till  all  are 
done.  Serve  in  dessert  saucers.  The  apples  can  be 
colored  pink  by  adding  red  fruit  juice  or  currant 
jelly  to  the  syrup. 

50T.        Pineapple  Sweet  Salad. 

1  pineapple.  • 

1  teacupful  of  powdered  sugar 

^  cup  of  maraschino. 

Peel  a  pineapple,  cut  it  into  uniform  slices  and 
cover  them  with  the  sugar  in  a  glass  dish.  Let  it 
remain  to  form  a  syrup,  and  when  to  be  served  add 
the  maraschino. 


THE 


^HOTEL-^-BOOK^ 


OF 


Breads  and  C^kes. 


FRENCH.  VIENNA.  PARKER  HOUSE  AND  OTHER  ROLLS.  MUFFINS,  WAFFLES, 
TEA  CAKES;  STOCK  YEAST,  AND  FERMENT;  YEAST-RAISED  CAKES, 
ETC.,  ETC.,    AS  MADE  IN  THE  BEST  HOTELS 
AND  RESTAURANTS. 


BEING  A  PART  OF  THE 


"Oven  and  Range"  Series. 


Jessup  Whitehead. 


CHICAGO: 

JESSUP  WHITEHEAD  &  CO.,  PuiLXSHBM, 

1894. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


128 


THE  HOTEL  BOOK  OF  BREADS. 


AH  the  Mystery  that  Pertains  to  Yeast 


511.  

Stout  Party :  "What  deHcious  bread  you  have 
Who  is  your  baker?" 

Bnllat-Savarin :  "Limet,  ia  Rue  de  Richelieu 
He  supplies  the  royal  family;  but  I  send  there  be- 
cause it  is  near,  and  continue  doing  so  because  I 
have  proclaimed  him  to  be  the  first  bread-maker  in 
the  world  " 

Stout  Party  :  "I  must  take  a  note  of  his  address 
I  am  a  great  eater  of  bread,  and  with  such  ro  Is  as 
those  I  could  almost  dispense  with  everything  else." 

It  is  one  of  the  most  natural  occurences  in  the 
world,  when  traveling  hotel  patrons  stop  at  a  good 
hotel — no  matter  what  the  rate  per  day  if  situated 
in  the  midst  of  the  land  of  sweet  butter—  and  find 
on  the  table  hot  rolls  that  are  remarkably  light,  well- 
baked,  well-shaped,  thin-crusted,  soft,  white,  sweet, 
fine-grained,  delicious  and  just  splendid ;  so  that 
/ley  think  they  "could  almost  dispense  with  every- 
thing else;"  for  them  to  ask  somebody  as  a  special 
favor  to  procure  them  the  receipt  to  mal^e  them  by. 
But,  more's  the  pity,  they  seldom  derive  any  benefit 
from  the  reply;  not  only  because  the  ingredients  are 
but  seldom  weighed  or  measured,  and  the  pastry 
cook  may  be  unable  and  unwilling  to  supply  the 
information,  but  because  in  the  nature  of  the  case 
the  receipt  is  but  a  small  part  of  a  little  system  of 
bread-making  that  has  to  be  faithfully  followed  from 
small  beginnings  to  great  results,  if  uniformly  fine 
rolls  and  bread  are  to  be  produced  ;  and  that  little 
system  is  yet  so  large  that  it  cannot  be  explained 
quite  all  in  a  minute.  Happily  however,  bread-making 
is  not  a  very  complicated  aflfair  compared  with  other 
branches  of  cookery  where  each  new  article  may 
require  a  diflferent  method,  but  this  ©nee  learned 
becomes  little  more  than  a  matter  of  routine.  The 
first  step  is  making  the  yeast. 


Oommon  Yeast,  or  Baker's  Ferment. 

512.  

About  24  potatoes. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  quart  of  stock  yeast. 

Wash  the  potatoes  thoroughly,  using  a  brush  fV)r 
the  purpose,  and  boil  them  in  a  kettle  of  water 
When  done  pour  oflf  what  remains  of  the  dark  water 
and  fill  up  again  with  fresh.  When  that  boils  turn 
out  potatoes  and  boiling  water  on  to  the  flour  in  a 
large  pan  and  mash  all  to  a  smooth  paste.  Throw 
in  the  sugar.  Thin  down  with  ice  water  till  like 
thick  cream.  Set  the  large  colander  over  your  6- 
gallon  stone  jar  (just  fresh  scalded  out)  and  strain 
the  yeast  into  it.  When  it  is  no  more  than  about 
milk  warm  mix  in  the  stock  or  other  yeast  to  start 
it.  Let  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  undis 
iorbed,  for  from  12    to    24    hours— according    to 


weather,  activity,  and  need  of  using     It  will  then 
be  ready  for  use,  and  should  be  kept  cold. 

Not  much  in  that ;  yet  it  was  once  the  subject  of 
an  English  patent.  Somewhere  between  1825  and 
1835.  And  in  the  days  of  our  daddies  was  kept  a 
profound  secret  and  termed  patent  yeast,  London 
yeast,  and  patent  London  potato  yeast,  long  after 
the  patent  had  expired.  Now  it  is  used  in  almost 
every  household  where  bread  is  made. 


To  avoid  sourness  in  this  ferment  it  is  quite 
tial  that  the  flour  be  well  scalded,  which  is  the  rea- 
son for  filling  up  the  kettle  the  second  time  to  have 
plenty  of  boiling  water  to  pour  over  it  along  with 
ihe  potatoes. 


Ought  not  the  potatoes  be  pared? 

Yts,  they  ought  to  be.  In  nice  little  hotels  kept 
by  ladies  they  are  pared  and  the  eyes  scooped  out. 
All  the  bakers  wi  1  do  that  way  when  the  millen- 
nium comes.  At  present  the  bakers  have  a  sort  of 
superstition  that  the  potato  skins  make  the  yeast 
stronger,  and  if  it  should  fail  to  be  good  would  ba 
sure  to  lay  the  blame  to  the  paring  of  the  potatoes. 
However,  they  are  obliged  to  wash  them  very  clean, 
and  if  they  did  not  pour  oflf  the  first  water  they  are 
boiled  in,  its  blackness  would  injure  their  bread. 


There  is  no  salt  in  the  receipt.  Ought  not  salt  be 
added? 

It  need  not  be.  It  seems  about  all  the  priva'e 
house  authorities  add  salt.  The  baker's  supersti- 
tions all  are  against  it.  Most  bakers  will  not  put 
salt  in  their  first  sponge.  Salt  in  yeast  probably 
does  no  harm;  it  certainly  does  no  good.  This  little 
book  teaches  to  make  bread  with  such  ease,  certain- 
ty, and  indiflference  to  trifles  that  you  will  be  at 
liberty  to  do  either  way  without  impairing  success. 


Not  so  with  sugar.  It  has  a  chemical  eflfect  that 
is  very  observable.  People  can  go  on  for  years 
making  good  bread  without,  but  they  never  discover 
how  quicii  and  strong  yeast  can  be  until  they  try 
the  sugar  experiment. 

513.  

But  there  is  stock  yeast  mentioned.     Where  are 

we  to  get  that? 

By  all  means  make  your  own  if  you  have  to  make 
bread  constantly  and  regularly,  no  matter  ia  what 
quantity,  for  stock  can  be  made  either  by  the  barrel 
or  bottleful,  and  needs  be  made  only  once  a  month, 
because  stock  is  not  put  into  bread  direct,  but  only 
used  to  make  the  common  yeast  or  ferment. 

It  costs  only  the  trouble  of  making,  the  materials 
being  almost  too  trifling  in  expense  to  count.  Of 
course  you  c-in  shuflie  along  without.  Some  hotel 
pastry  cooks  do  so  all  their  lives,  never  knowing 
how  to  make  stock.  But  then  they  are  always  de- 
pendent, begging  from  those  who  are  unwilling  to 


(24 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


fire  or  sell  it.  Or  else  t-hey  use  ferment  to  start 
with  over  and  over  again,  and  it  carries  the  germs 
of  acetio  fermentation,  or  seeds  of  sourness  all  the 
time;  it  is  weak  and  makes  rotten  dough,  while 
with  stook  used  to  start  with  every  time,  or  at  least 
alternately,  it  is  the  most  difficult  thing  to  make 
dough  or  bread  become  sour,  even  if  you  were  to 
try  it. 

Some  who  go  on  using  the  lifeless  ferment  made 
with  ferment  for  years,  blaming  the  flour  and  the 
luck,  are  astonished  after  all  to  find  yeast  made  with 
perfect  stock  turning  out  rolls  and  loaves  twice  as 
large  and  twice  as  good  as  ever  they  had  known 
them  before. 


Stock  yeast  is  the  foundation  corner  stone  of  a 
trade.  The  receipt  for  making  it  is  never  published. 
It  is  too  valuable  to  be  spread  broadcast  in  a  news- 
paper, yet  some  way  will  be  indicated  at  the  end  of 
this  book  by  which  those  who  really  need  it  my  ob- 
tain the  desired  information. 


But  if  no  stock  yeast,  what  then? 

A  quart  or  more  of  good  ferment  from  the  shop  of 
a  good  baker  is  the  best  substitute.  Next  to  that  is 
dry  hop  yeast  in  cakes,  (they  are  made  from  stock 
yeast)  not  good  fi>r  making  bread  direct  because  of 
their  taste,  perceptible  to  all  persons  critical  about 
their  bread,  but  good  to  start  ferment  along  with 
sugar.  Use  a  liberal  amount — about  6  cakes  to  each 
gallon  of  ferment  made.  Make  a  new  start  that  way 
about  once  a  month  and  use  ferment  for  starting  at 
other  times. 


There  are  no  hops.  Don't  you  use  hops  in  mak- 
ing yeast? 

Yes,  in  all  cases  where  no  stock  can  be  had,  tie  up 
4  ounces  of  hops  in  a  piece  of  muslin,  boil  them 
with  the  potatoes  in  the  second  water,  and  press 
out  the  liquor  through  the  colander  when  straining 
the  yeast  Hops  are  not  needed>ith  stock  for 
starting,  as  that  is  already  bitter  with  them. 


The  baker  or  pastry  cook  who  makes  perfect 
yeast  is  naturally  reluctant  to  take  chances  on  other 
people's  on  making  a  new  commencement,  and  will 
prefer  to  take  along  his  own  in  the  following  easy 
and  reliable  manner. 


514. 


Dry  Hop  Yeast. 


1  pint  of  strong,  thick,  stock  yeast. 
1  pint  of  fresh  ferment, 
1  pound  of  corn  meal. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 

By  thick  stock  is  meant  some  that  is  not  watered 
down  to  the  common  point  of  using,  but  left  with 
more  consistence  for  this  purpose. 

Mix  all  together  to  a  stiflF  dough,  without  knead- 


ing. Cut  out  in  suitable  cakes  and  dry  them  in  a 
cool  place  as  quickly  as  possible,  turning  over  fre- 
quently. If  covered  with  meal  and  dried  under  a 
slight  pressure  of  board  and  weight  till  so  much  of 
the  moisture  is  expelled  that  they  cannot  ferment, 
these  cakes  will  be  as  free  from  breakage  as  the  dry 
yeast  of  the  stores.  Either  way  they  will  be  found 
very  strong  and  ready  both  for  bread  or  yeast 
making. 

615.  

A  brand  of  dry  yeast  with  a  German  name  that  is 

sold  in  tin-foil  packages,  is  made  as  above  with 
starch  and  flour.  The  starch  absorbs  more  moist- 
ure— takes  up  more  yeast. 

There  are  then  several  kinds  of  yeast.  Of  com- 
pressed yeast,  the  all  in  all  and  first  necessity  with 
many  bakers,  this  little  book  will  not  have  much  to 
say.  It  is  neither  better  nor  worse  than  that  we  make 
ourselves  Its  one  merit  is  that  it  saves  the  trouble 
of  making  either  stock  or  ferment.  In  the  largest 
hotels  which  have  bakeries  attached  it  is  used  and, 
saving  labor,  is  as  cheap  as  any.  But  it  has  to  be 
purchased,  and  in  the  ordinary  hote]  and  boarding 
house,  after  a  month  or  two,  the  question  invariably 
comes : 

•'Can't  you  make  your  own  yeast?  So  and  so 
does,  and  they  have  splendid  bread." 

Then  the  cook  or  pastry  makes  his  own,  and 
rather  liking  the  independence  it  gives  him,  and 
not  caring  to  change  methods  every  month,  the  prac- 
tice of  using  home-made  yeast  becomes  the  hotel 
rule. 

All  ignorant  imaginings  of  luck,  chance,  water- 
witchery,  mystery,  hidden  knowledge,  moon's  age 
and  the  like  having  to  do  with  fermentation  should, 
one  would  think,  have  been  banished  long  before 
this ;  but  such  is  not  the  case,  as  we  are  often  re- 
niinded  seeing  how  easily  even  some  old  hands  will 
give  up  trying  under  the  least  stress  of  accident. 


Two  men,  a  few  months  since,  started  a  "French 
Bakery" — so  their  handsome  new  sign  had  it — in 
the  livest  new  city  on  the  continent.  The  capitalist, 
with  five  years  savings  of  some  plodding  business; 
the  other  partner,  a  routine  shop  baker  from  an 
eastern  city.  Large  size  portable  oven  procured  at 
great  expense,  very  large  tent,  all  other  fixtures 
suitable,  high  hopes  of  course,  scores  of  such  begin- 
nings had  become  fine  stores  doing  a  rushing  busi 
ness.  First  opening  day  bread  very  bad — gray 
color  like  rye — full  of  holes — rolls  all  run  together 
shsipele^s,  worse  than  bread.  Blamed  flour.  Sent 
for  the  merchant  author  of  their  ruin.  Merchant 
called  referees,  proved  best  flour  in  the  state.  Next 
day  bread  no  better,  could  not  be  worse — blamed 
water,  oven,  dough  trough,  weather.  Next  day 
bread  no  better — blamed  the  luck,  moon,  planet, 
climate,  salt.     Ran  to  place  of  one  of  referees  wher« 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


125 


gloriuus  bread  was  made  and  borrowed  eome    good 
yeast. 

Next  day  had  good  average  baker's  bread.  But 
no  m«re  customers.  All  parties  demoralized.  Baker 
on  a  STool  smoking  said  it  was  no  use^his  trying  in 
that  town  any  more,  because  he  had  made  bis  first 
yeast  in  the  wrong  quarter  of  the  moon!^  Sold  out 
for  a  song — capitalist  raised  enough  to  go  back  home 
with — baker  lost. 


Another  case.  The  steward  of  a  good  hotel  where 
the  finest  bread  was  known  to  be  made,  was  sought 
by  the  owner  of  a  bakery  that  had  been  running 
with  good  Buccfss  for  some  time. 

"What  brand  of  flour  do  you  use?  I  must  get  some 
or  close  my  shop.  I  have  no  more  gocd  bread  and 
my  trade  is  leaving  me." 

"We  use  the  best — such  a  brand." 

"Why,  I  have  that,  but  they  must  have  changed 
quality  on  me." 

''That  does  not  seem  possible,  for  you  got  the  other 
half  of  the  same  car  load  as  ours.  Perhaps  you  will 
find  the  fault  is  with  your  baker.  He  did  well  in 
warm  weather;  now  the  nights  are  cold.  His  yeast 
has  run  out " 

Correct.  Some  changes,  and  the  business  recover- 
ed and  has  grown. 


In  one  of  those  Florida  hotels,  years  ago,  they  tried 
to  do  without  engaging  a  pastry  cook  for  the  season, 
and  might  have  got  along  very  well  had  it  not  been 
for  theinscrutible  mystery  that  so  envelops  yeast  os 
to  make  it  impossible  for  ordinary  home  fv^lk  to  ever 
penetrate  to  the  bottom  of  it.  The  company  was 
coming  but  the  yeast  would  not  come  nor  the  light 
bread.  The  family  carryall  was  sent  fifty  miles  for 
a  baker,  in  haste.  He  came,  he  saw,  he  made  some 
mash  and  poured  it  very  warm  into  their  cold  and 
inert  yeast,  and  in  an  hour  it  was  all  life,  overflow- 
ing the  top  and  filling  another  jar  besides.  Such 
wonderful  witchcraft  as  he  understood  they  never 
could  expect  to  learn,  so  he  had  to  stay  the  season 
through.  It  was  well  for  him  that  he  understood 
yeast. 


Scientists  tell  us  that  yeast  is  a  plant,  a  festive 
801 1  of  microscopic  fungus,  or  multitudinous  mass 
of  it,  of  exuberant  growth  under  the  usuual  condi- 
tions favorable  toplint  life.  There  is  any  desired 
amount  of  natural  philosophy  besides  the  above  to 
be  found  in  studying  the  singular  ways  of  yeast, 
such  as  the  different  kind  of  fermentation  and  the 
changes  produced  in  the  flour,  but  the  really  practi- 
cal thing  for  bread-makers'  profit  to  remember  is 
that  one  point  that  yeast  is  a  plant  and  to  be  cared 
as  such  As  plants  grow  fast  under  the  influence  of 
warmth  and  moisture  so  does  yeast.  Hot  water 
poured  into  a  bed  of  plants  will  kill  them  and  the 
excess  of  heat  kills  yeast,  whether  the  ferment 


be  too  hot  into  which  the  starting  yea«t  is  poured, 
or  whether  the  dough  be  made  too  hot  when  it  ii  set 
with  yeast  in  it  to  rise.  Asa  root  or  seed  will  be  in 
the  ground  for  months  without  growing  if  the 
ground  be  cold  so  will  y(ast  remain  without  life  in 
a  similar  condition.  And  as  a  plant  may  be  un- 
naturally forced  to  a  sickly  rapidity  of  growth  till  it 
fallsof  its  own  weight  so  do  yeast  and  dough  act 
when  (hey  are  hurried  too  much  by  being  kept  as 
hot  as  they  can  be  without  killing  them. 

The  best  bread  and  yeast  are  made  by  giving 
plenty  of  time  and  gentle  temperature  for  all  the 
processes  to  be  carried  out  in  a  natural  manner. 

Accidental  freezing  solid  does  not  kill  yeast,  nor 
seem  to  injure  it.  This  refers  only  to  common  de- 
grees of  co'd,  not  extremes. 


516. 

About  Flour.    Graham  Bread,  Rye-an' 

Injun  and  Boston  Brown. 


In  fact,  great  emphasis  has  been  laid  upon  the 
quality  and  manufacture  of  bread  from  early  times, 
when  the  whitest  and  finest  was  called  simnel  cakes, 
and  was  concocted  chiefly  to  please  the  palate  of  the 
rich  and  high-born,  as  well  as  the  wasiel  bread,  not 
quite  so  aristocratic;  whi^e  the  tourle,  or  twisted 
loaf,  and  black  bread  made  from  the  coarsest  por- 
tion of  the  wheat,  or  from  some  inferior  grain,  fell 
to  the  share  of  the  poor. 

Nowadays  we  have  discovered  that  the  coarse  fare 
furnishes  more  nutriment,  and  the  rich  have  adopt- 
ed it  and  made  it  popular  — Ilarper's  Bazar. 

Every  cure  of  corpulence  must  begin  with  these  three 
maxims  or  absolute  principles :  discretion  in  eating, 
moderation  in  sleep,  exercise  on  foot  or  horsebaon. 
To  abstain  more  or   less  rigorously  from  all  that 
is  floury  and  starchy  tends  to  lessen  corpulence. 
You  like  bread;  then  eat  brown  or  rye  bread 
At  breakfast,  take  brown    bread  a«  a  matter  of 
course,  and    chocolate  rather  than  coflfee.     Strong 
cofl'ee,  however,  with  mil h,  may  be  conceded      Eat 
as  little  of  the  crumb  of  bread  as  possible. — Oastrono- 
my  as  a  Fine  Art. 


Perfect  yeast,  quick  and  strong,  and  so  sweet  and 
tasteless  that  no  harm  can  result  from  using  it 
plentifully  is  the  first  requirement  for  making  perfect 
bread  and  the  quality  of  the  flour  is  next  to  be  tak^-n 
into  account.  The  flour  is  too  generally  made  to 
bear  all  the  blame  of  poor  bakings.  A  good  bread 
maker  with  good  yeast  c  n  make  better  bread  from 
second  rate  flour  than  a  second  rate  workman  gen- 
erally can  from  the  finest.  Yet  in  good  hands  the 
finest  flour  will  produce  rolls  and  loaves  half  as 
large  again  for  their  weight  as  those  made  of  infe- 
rior flour.  Shop  bakers  who  hnve  to  count  their 
profit  by  the  number  of  loaves  that  a  barrel  of  flour 
can  be  made  to  produce,  know  that  several  mor* 
loaves  of  the  same  weight,  and  of  larger  size,  can  bt 
made  from  fine  flour  than  from  coarse,  showing  that 
the  best  takes  up  most  water,  and  from   the  bre^J- 


126 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


maker's  point  of  view  may  be  as  cheip  as  the    poor 
flour  which  costs  less  money. 


The  usual  tests  for  flour  do  not  g«nerally  amount 
to  much  in  assisting  the  buyer,  The  miller's  brand 
is  his  trade  mark,  and  most  of  them  try  to  keep  up 
the  quality  of  their  best  at  an  even  degree  of  excel- 
lence.   The  brand  is  often  the  best  guide. 

If  two  or  three  samples  of  flour  are  pliced  in  the 
hand  side  by  side,  and  smoothed  with  a  silver  knife, 
the  finest  may  be  known  by  its  greater  freedom 
from  bran.  Yet  when  one  sample  is  from  red  wheat, 
another  from  white,  the  appearances  maybe  decep 
tive.  White  wheat  does  not  make  the  whitest  bread, 
in  a  general  way.  A  handful  of  flour  pressed  in 
the  hand,  if  good,  will  retain  its  shape,  while  coarse 
flour  falls  apart  like  sand.  Yet  the  best  flour  new- 
ly ground  will  not  answer  to  this  test,  and  poor 
flour  with  age  will. 


Spring  wheat  flour  may  be  white,  but  will  not, 
unless  in  exceptional  cases,  make  rolls  and  loaves 
of  as  good  shape  as  winter  wheat  flour,  they  having 
a  tendency  to  run  out  of  shape,  the  dough  being  soft 
and  sticky.  It  is  winter  wheat  flour  that  makes  the 
tall  round  handsome  rolls  and  loaves. 


Good  flour  is  slow  to  go  through  the  seive,  rolls 
up  in  balls  and  coats  the  sides.  Poor  flour  passes 
through  like  buckwheat  or  meal. 


Flour  improves  with  keeping,  especially  in  white- 
ness. It  should  have  six  months  age  before  being 
used  for  fine  rolls.  Bakers  sometime  buy  flour  that 
has  become  caked  in  the  barrels  through  long  keep- 
ing, and  mix  portions  of  it  with  the  newer  flour  to 
impart  whiteness  and  strength. 

It  often  improves  the  bread  to  mix  two  or  three 
brands  of  flour  together,  particularly  when  one  is 
older  than  the  other.  Spring  wheat  flour  may  be 
best  worked  off"  by  having  some  old  winter  wheat 
flour  to  mix  with  it. 


But  this  is  all  on  the  common  assumption  that 
good  flour  means  fine,  white  flour,  and  the  crowning 
glory  of  bread-making  is  to  have  bread  snowy-white 
and  delicate  in  taste  and  texture.  A  very  large 
minority  in  our  hotels,  however,  make  known  their 
preference  for  various  kinds  of  bread  of  a  coarser 
sort. 


Graham  flour  should  be  the  unbolted  meal  of 
wheat,  but  not  only  that,  the  wheat  should  be  good 
plump  grain,  such  as  would  make  fine  flour.  Very 
often  the  appearance  and  handling  is  such  that 
graham  flour  seems  little  else  than  bran  and  shorts, 
aa  if  the  thinnest  wheat  had  been  got  rid  of  in  that 
■hape.  In  other  samples  the  flour  is  made  by  taking 
Mconda  flour  and  mixing  in  an  indefinite   amount 


of  bran,  defrauding  the  consumer  of  the  finest  por- 
tion of  the  flour  altogether.  The  beat  remedy  is  to 
buy  such  flour  only  of  a  reputable  miller  who  makes 
it  a  special  care  to  select  good  wheat — generally 
white  wheat — for  the  purpose.  Another  remedy  is 
supplied  by  the  proportions  of  the  following  receipts. 


517. 


Graham  Bread. 


A  standing  article  on  the  bill  of  fare  of  most  hotels. 

2  pounds  of  graham  flour,  not  sifted. 

1  pound  of  white  flour. 

1 J  pints  of  warm  water. 

^  pint  of  yeast.     (1  cup). 

1  teaspoon ful  of  salt. 

Commence  7  or  8  hours  before  time  to  bake.  Mix 
the  yeast  and  water  together  ;  strain  them  into  the 
graham.  It  makes  a  stifi"  batter.  That  is  the  sponge. 
Let  it  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place  about  4 
hours.  Then  add  the  white  flour,  knead  and  pound 
the  dough.  Very  slightly  grease  the  pan  it  was 
started  in,  place  the  lump  of  dough  in  it,  brueh  that 
over — no  matter  how  slightly — with  the  butter  brush 
and  set  to  rise  2  hours  more.  Then  make  into 
loaves,  rise  and  bake. 


Graham  dough  rises  faster  than  white,  and  after 
being  made  into  loaves  should  not  be  a'lowed  to  rise 
or  proof  too  much,  lest  it  be  too  crumbly  to  slice 
well.  The  bakers  usually  bake  these  in  round 
moulds. 


Taking  fine  French  rolls  for  the  standard,  graham 
rolls  enjoy  a  degree  of  popularity  in  hotel  service 
averaging  about  three  to  five.  They  are  more  diffi- 
cult to  make — or  at  least  to  bake  —  and  a  fine  graham 
roll  is  not  to  be  met  with  everywhere.  They  don' t 
all  know  how  to  make  them  as  nice  as  these. 


518. 


Graham  Rolls. 


This  is  for  fifty  rolls  of  small  size. 

2  pounds  of  graham,  not  sifted. 

1  pound  of  white  flour. 

H  piuts  of  warm  water. 

^  pint  of  yeast. 

^  cup  of  reboiled  molasses. 

1  egg — 2  whites  are  better. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Set  sponge  with  the  graham  at  9  or  10  in  th« 
morning,  for  rolls  for  supper;  at  about  1  add  ail  the 
other  ingredients  and  make  it  stiS"  dough.  Let  rise 
till  4.  Then  work  the  dough  by  spreading  it  out 
on  the  table,  with  the  knuckles,  folding  over  and 
pressing  again  repeatedly.  Make  iuto  rolls  in  any 
of  the  ways  to  be  hereinafter  detailed  for  whi** 
rolls.  Grease  slightly  between  eacn  one  witn  a 
brush  dipped  in  melted  lard  or  butter.  Brush  over 
the  tops  with  the  same,   and  set  the    rolls  to  rlM 


THE  AXEBICAN  PASTBlT  COOK. 


Id7 


about  45  minutes.  Bake  carefully  about  15  minutes. 
Brush  over  with  clear  water  on  taking  them  from 
the  oven.     Keep  hot  without  drying  out. 


There  ig  philosophy  or  something  like  it  in  that 
one  egg.  It  closes  the  pores  in  the  crust  and  re- 
tains the  air  of  fermentation  that  otherwise  would 
escape  from  the  rough  graham  flour,  and  the  result 
is  increased  lightness,  softness,  and  better  shape. 
No  shortening  should  be  allowed  in  the  mixture. 


Such  is  the  force  of  habit  or  custom,  one  must  not 
expect  to  be  accounted  the  best  breadmaker  in  the 
world  if  our  graham  and  brown  breads  be  not  brown, 
and  our  gingerbread  be  not  "old-fashioned,"  that 
is  dark  colored.  Graham  rolls  are  expected  to  be 
light-brown  in  color.  They  don't  look]  natural 
otherwise;  they  are  nicer  so  and  not  so  likely  to  be 
taken  for  second-rate  French  rolls.  But  now  that 
the  march  of  civilization  has  taken  away  our  old- 
fashioned  black  molasses  and  given  us  colorless 
Illinois  sorghum  syrup  instead,  it  is  hard  to  see  what 
else  we  can  do  but  use  a  spoonful  of  burnt  sugar 
caramel  for  coloring,  else  our  brown  breads  cannot 
possibly  be  brown. 


The  trifle  of  sweetening  called  for    in    graham 
rolls  makes  the  crust  thin  and  soft. 


It  is  far  better  to  set  the  sponge  with  the  graham 
so  as  to  soak  and  soften  the  bran,  instead  of  taking 
up  white  bread  sponge  and  working  stiflF  with  gra- 
ham, as  is  oftencst  done  "for  short."  Best  bread- 
makers  in  the  world  use  themselves  to  the  right 
ways  from  the  first. 

Pastrycooks  do  not  and  need  not  measure  the 
flour.  They  measure  the  three-fourths  water  and 
one-fourth  yeast,  and  add  all  the  flour  needed  to 
make  dough.  A  cup,  or  half  pint  of  fluid  wets  a 
pound  of  flour. 


It  is  immaterial  whether  the  dough  be  made  by 
setting  sponge,  or  batter  with  yeast  in  it,  as  pre- 
viously directed,  or  all  the  ingredients  put  in  a  pan 
and  mixed  up  at  once.  At  night  the  latter  way  has 
to  be  adopted.  The  dough  made  by  the  receipt  for 
graham  rolls  over  night  can  be  used  part  for  loaves 
»nd  part  for  muffins  by  the  following  short  and  easy 
method. 


519. 


Graham  MufiQns. 


Makes  about  thirty. 

2  pounds  of  graham  roll  dough. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  (a  bastingspoonful)  of  molasses. 

^  cupful  of  milk. 


2  whole  eggs  and  2  yolks. 

Take  the  dough  that  has  been  already  prepared 
for  making  rolls.  Warm  it  and  the  butter  in  a  pan 
together.  Put  in  the  other  ingredients  and  beat  all 
together  about  5  minutes.  Grease  tin  muffin  rings 
or  gem  pans.  Half  fill  them.  Rise  half  an  hour. 
Bake  10  minutes.  Brush  over  with  butter  or  hot 
water.  But  if  you  have  nb  light  dough  made  the 
muffins  can  be  set  from  the  beginning  with  : 

1  pound  graham;  ^  pound  white  flour;  f  pint 
milk;  1  cup  yeast;  salt,  molasses,  eggi?,  butter,  as  in 
foregoing  receipt.  Mix  and  let  rise  4  hours.  Beat 
5  minutes,  rise  in  rings  till  iight,  then  bake. 


Many  of  the  people  in  poor  heaUh  who  frequent 
the  springs  and  pleasure  places  for  recuperation  are 
extremely  criiical  in  the  matter  of  such  hygienic 
articles  of  diet  as  graham  rolls  and  gems,  and  all 
the  hints  here  given  will  be  found  useful  in  the  en- 
deavor to  meet  their  requirements. 


590. 


Graham  Gems. 


Made  with  Bakingr  Powder. 

1  quart  of  unsifted  graham. 

1  quart  of  white  flour. 

4  spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
3  large  cups  of  milk, 
legg.     Salt. 

2  ounces  of  lard  melted. 

Have  the  milk  tepid  and  mix  the  lard  and  egg  in 
it;  the  powder  and  small  teaspoon  of  salt  to  be  mix- 
ed in  the  flour.  Stir  all  together  and  beat  for  3  min- 
utes. Have  the  iron  gem  pans  hot;  drop  in  round 
spoonfuls  of  the  fritter-like  batter  and  bake  ten 
minutes. 


As  it  is  none  of  our  business  to  decide  which  are 
the  very  best  gems,  here  is  another  receipt  to  be 
tried  when  the  sameness  of  the  foregoing  has  be- 
come wearisome: 

2  pounds  of  graham;  2  eggs;  4  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder;  2  basting  spoonfuls  of  syrup;  small 
teaspoonful  of  salt;  1 J  pints  of  milk  or  water.  Beat 
all  to  a  stiff"  batter.  Make  the  gem  pans  hot  and 
grease  them.  Drop  in  spoonfuls.  Bake  in  slow 
oven  15  minutes. 


5S1. 


Graham  Bisouit. 


2  quarts  unsifted  graham. 

1  quart  flour. 

2  ounces  lard. 

lj|egg  in  the  milk,  (optional).     Salt. 
4  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
Milk  or  water  to  make  soft  dough. 


I  £8 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


An  hotel  pastry  cook  and  baker  who  had  grown 
ashamed  of  himself,  once  told  me  that  for  years  he 
went  from  one  hotel  to  another,  as  pastry  cooks  do, 
find  always  finding  the  people  earnestly  wished  for 
Boston  Brown  Bread,  he  as  earnestly  protested  that 
it  could  not  be  made  unless  there  was  a  bric^x  oven 
in  which  to  bake  it  8  hour?,  and  as  only  about  one 
in  fifty  of  American  hotels  own  a  brick  oven  this 
usually  ended  the  argument. 

And  yet  here  and  there  would  be  some  little  house 
enjoying  quite  a  reputation  and  a  run  of  custom  be 
cause  of  its  much  beloved  Boston  brown,  or  it  might 
be  only  rye-and-injun,  hot  for  breakfast  or  supper, 
or  for  Sunday  mornings  especially.  No  matter  how, 
but  as  he  grew  wiser  and  older  this  pastry  cook 
found  the  brick  oven  was  by  no  means  an  artic'e 
indispensable,  and  Boston  brown  that  was  a  thous- 
and times  pronounced  all  that  could  be  wished,  he 
made  by  the  following  described  methods. 


592. 


Boston  Brown  Bread. 


Raised  witli  Yeast. 


1  quart  of  corn  meal. 
1  quart  of  graham. 
1  quart  rye  flour. 
1  quart  white  flour. 
1  quart  of  boi'.ing  water. 
1  pint  of  yeast. 

1  small  cup  of  molasses. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

J  cup  of  burnt  sugar  coloring. 

The  method  here  recommended  is  materially 
different  from  the  common  troublesome  process; 
first,  because  troublesome  processes  cannot  and  will 
not  be  carried  out  in  hotels  doing  good  business 
and  secondly,  because  this  way  produces  as  good 
results  as  if  one  sat  up  all  night  about  it. 

Scald  the  meal  by  itself  first,  by  pouring  the  boil- 
ing water  on  and  stirring  in  a  pan.  Then  add  mo- 
lasses, salt,  caramel.  If  still  hot,  let  it  stand  awhile 
before  adding  anything  else.  When  only  milk 
warm  strain  in  the  yeast,  then  mix  in  the  graham 
and  rye  and  the  white  flour  last.  The  dough  will  be 
like  graham  dough  and  can  be  worked  on  the  table. 
Part  of  the  white  flour  should  be  left  over  to  dust 
with.  After  a  little  kneading,  slightly  grease  the 
pan  it  was  mixed  in,  place  the  dough  in  it,  cover 
with  a  cloth  and  let  rise  moderately  warm  about  6 
hours.  Turn  on  the  table,  knead  a  little,  make  into 
4  or  6  loaves,  place  in  round  moulds  or  pails,  let  rise 
about  half  an  hour  or  an  hour  if  to  be  baked  instead 
of  steamed. 

By  this  method  no  sponge  is  set,  but  the  dough  is 
mixed  up  stiff  at  once — care  being  taken  not  to  let 
the  yeast  get  Ecalded  in  the  hot  meal — greatly  lessen- 
ing the  trouble.  If  commenced  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  the  loaves  will  be  ready  for  the  oven  after  the 


rolls  at  night,  and  should  be  baked  two  or  three 
hours  at  very  moderate  heat.  Or,  mixed  at  night 
and  made  into  loaves  very  early  the  bread  may  be 
baked  in  time  for  breakfast.  But  the  best  way  is 
this  : 

Make  up  the  dough  as  directed,  at  7  in  the  morn- 
ing Work  and  make  into  loaves  at  12  or  1.  After 
rising  one-half  hour  set  the  iron  pails  containing  the 
loaves  in  the  steam-chest,  or  in  a  boiler  with  water, 
and  steam  in  this  way  till  5  30.  Then  bake  one-h4f 
hour  and  serve  hot  for  supper,  the  remainder 
answering  for  cold  bread  to  toast. 


When  these  loaves  become  hollow  in  the  top  it  is 
because  of  too  much  rising  or  proof  in  the  pails. 
Steaming  does  not  arrest  fermentation  quick  enough 
and  they  get  too  light  and  fall. 


The  foregoing  is  one  way  that  requires  good 
yeast.  The  next  is  shorter  still  and  takes  baking 
powder  instead.  It  is  hard  to  say  which  is  the 
better.     You  can  be  happy  with  either. 

523,      Steamed  Brown  Bread. 

Made  with  Baking  Powder. 

2  pounds  of  corn  meal. 

1  quart  of  boiling  water, 

1  cupful  of  dark  mola?ses. 

1  pint  of  cold  milk  or  water. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

6  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  of  graham. 

1  pound  of  white  flour. 

Scald  the  meal  with  the  boiling  water.  Add  the 
molasses  and  then  rest  of  the  ingredients — the  powder 
being  mixed  in  the  flour.  Beat  up  thoroughly.  It 
makes  soft  dough.  Put  it  in  2  or  3  iron  pails  having 
lids  and  steam  5  hours  or  more,  then  bake  about 
20  minutes. 


Hotel  providers  who  would  have  brown  bread  by 
these  easy  methods  always,  need  to  provide  a  set  of 
pails  that  will  stand  baking,  having  bales  and  lids. 
They  should  last  for  years  and  require  to  be  made  of 
the  best  Russia  iron,  as  these  properly  cared  for, 
greased  while  hot  and  wiped  out,  never  discolor  the 
bread.     5  inches  across,  8  inches  deep. 


524, 


Rye  and  Indian. 


No  different  method  is  needed  but  to  change  the 
ingredients  of  Boston  Brown  so  as  to  leave  out  the 
graham  and  the  flour  and  double  the  proportions 
of  meal  and  rye  in  their  place. 


Bakers'  rye  loaves  are  made  by  the  same  method 
as  French  loaves,  and  will  be  found  in  that  connec- 
tion at  a  subsequent  page. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


126 


The  Best  White  Bread  and  How 
to  Make  it. 

686. 

Archestratus,  a  friend  of  one  of  Pericles'  sons; 
*  *  this  great  writer,  during  his  travels,  did  not 
make  inquiring  into  the  manners  of  nations,  since 
they  always  remain  the  same,  but  going  into  the 
laboratories  where  the  deicacies  of  the  table  are 
prepared,  he  only  held  intercourse  with  those  who 
could  advance  his  pleasures. — Philosophical  History 
of  Cookery. 

The  ardent  dietetic  morality  which  extolled  the 
bread  that  was  coarsest,  brownest,  stalest  and  most 
truly  home-made,  and  caused  fine  white  and  fresh 
bread  to  be  swallowed  as  if  it  were  a  sin  against 
nature,  is  classed  among  the  "Isms  of  forty  years 
ago"  in  one  of  the  January  magazines.  Dr.  Syl- 
vester Graham  of  Connecticut,  started  the  reform, 
which,  running  to  great  lengths  at  first,  has  result. 
ed,  in  the  long  ran,  in  a  happy  mean,  a  modific  .- 
tion,  a  d  greater  variety  in  the  popular  bill  of  fare. 
The  people  in  great  numbers,  who  find  the  white  rolls 
and  bread  irresistible  may  reap  satisfaction  from 
finding  so  eminent  an  authority  as  the  author  of 
"Gastronomy"  in  their  favor.  His  pr'escription,  the 
groundwork  of  his  cure  for  thinness,  for  "a  young 
sylph,  or  other  airy  creature,  who  wishes  to  assume 
a  more  material  form"  is  "first  of  all,  make  it  a  gen- 
eral rule  to  eat  nothing  but  newly-baked  bread,  es- 
pec  ally  the  crumb,  and  plenty  of  it."  And  he  had 
Btudiid  such  matters  all  his  life.  But  as  there  are 
dinners  and  dinners, — so  Cardinal  Richelieu  re- 
marks to  his  major  domo,  meaning  that  some  are  very 
bad, — so  it  should  be  said  about  bread.  The  rolls 
of  Limet,  of  Rue  de  Richelieu,  could  not  hurt  any- 
body. 


52G. 


On  one  occasion  the  writer  was  called  upon  as  a 
probably  competent  judge  to  pass  opinion  on  the 
work  of  one  of  the  reputed  very  best  bread  makers. 
There  is  a  dubious  kind  of  excellence  in  this  line  as 
in  everything  else  that  does  not  feel  able  to  stand 
alone  but  always  wants  somebody  to  keep  saying  it 
excels.  Such  was  the  case  here.  The  bread  was 
extremely  fine,  yet,  I  venture  to  say  the  people  did 
not  enjoy  it  except  to  look  at,  and  felt  that  some 
essential  quality  was  lacking.  It  was  white  as 
chalk  and  a  good  deal  like  it ;  fine-grained  as  deli- 
cate cake,  but  had  no  toughness  nor  elasiicity  and 
crumbled  when  broken,  like  meal.  It  had  a  sweet- 
ish insipidity  of  taste,  instead  of  the  hearty  relish- 
ing wheat  flavor  of  good  bread.  It  was  made  so  by 
an  immense  amount  of  kneading  the  wrong  way. 

These  people  did  not  invite  instruction  nor  criti- 
cism, only  praise.  I  said  the  bread  was  superhtively 
fine,  and  the  'ady  was  one  of  the  best  breadmakers 
in  the  world.  That  the  bread  was  not  good  was  a 
inental  reservation.  We  all  frequently  make  bread 
that  is  fine  but  not  good,  and  they  that  have  such 
for  their  regular  diet  sometimes  find  in  a  loaf  of 


common  bakers'  bread  a  new  revelation  of  how 
swee;  the  taste  of  bread  can  be,  and  wonder  whence 
springs  the  difference.  It  is  not  what  the  bakers 
put  in  the  bread  but  the  proper  method  of  working. 

Just  the  other  day  a  magazinist  spoke  of  good 
bread  making  as  a  lost  art.  A  figure  of  speech, 
perhaps,  or  else  the  opinion  of  a  lover  of  good  bread 
whose  experiences  have  been  bad  ;  but  if  there  be 
any  grounds  for  such  an  idea  to  rest  on  the  cause 
may  be  found  in  the  unwillingness  of  instructors  in 
cookery  to  properiy  dwell  upon  eo  seemingly  simple 
and  self-evident  a  matter  as  the  proper  way  oi 
kneading  dough.  And  very  recently  another  inti- 
mated how  many  persons  accustomed  to  "  biscuit 
streaked  with  saleratus  and  heavy  with  lard,  regard 
rolls  white  and  light  as  newly-fallen  snow  as  some- 
thing belonging  to  the  households  of  princes,  to  the 
King  of  France's  Kitchen,  but  not  to  be  freely  eaten 
by  common  folks."  Now  it  is  cheaper  to  have  good 
bread  than  bad,  and  the  bare  formula  for  making  it 
being  so  little  and  the  understanding  how  so  much, 
we  are  going  to  do  our  best  to  endeavor  to  draw  atten 
tion  to  what  the  knack  of  making  bread  both  good  and 
fine  consist  J  in — yeast  and  flour  being  good  to  begin 
with. 


It  took  one,  otherwise  excellent,  pastry  cook  ten 
years  to  discover  this  knack  for  himself,  but  he  was 
all  the  while  the  worst  mystified  man  imaginable, 
because  he  had,  when  a  boy,  made  rolls  that  people 
would  eat  in  preference  to  anything  else,  while  now 
every  other  kind  of  bre  id  was  preferred  to  his  hand- 
somest rolls  The  fault  with  them  was  the  same  as  with 
the  lady's  fine,  brittle  and  tasteless  bread  already 
spoken  of. 

This  man  had  been  shown  how  to  work  in  a 
routine  way  in  a  large  bakery  without  ever  being 
impressed  with  any  idea  of  the  particular  way  being 
essential  to  good  quality,  and  when,  afterwards,  in 
a  French  kitchen  where  ornamentation  was  run  to 
the  extreme  at  the  expense  often  of  good  flavor,  he 
exercised  his  ingenuity  till  he  could  make  rolls  in 
forty  difl'erent  fancy  shapes,  he  found,  after  all,  they 
were  in  little  demand,  lie  worked  all  the  life  out 
of  the  dough  in  making  it  into  curliques.  Then  in 
abusy  time  a  very  common  fellow  came  along  and 
was  set  to  make  the  ro  Is.  He  was  too  common  even 
to  have  a  name  except  a  familiar  Tom,  Dic'<,  or 
Harry  and  was  quite  unconcious  that  the  rolls  he 
made  were  the  firetthat  had  ever  been  eaten  with  a 
real  zest  and  favored  with  a  constantly  increasing 
demand  in  that  house.  But  after  that  the  fancy 
breads  were  neglected  and  there  was  less  cry  for 
toast.  Even  the  "help" — excellent  judges  of  what 
is  good,  although. discretely  silent — would  steal  the 
new  man's  rolls  out  of  the  corners  of  the  pans  as 
they  passed  —a  thing  never  known  to  be  done  be- 
fore, as  long  as  a  biscuit  could  be  had. 


130 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


And  all  the  difference  was  in  two  different  ways 
of  working  the  same  materials  The  superiority  of 
the  common  fellow's  rolls  and  bread  was  all  owing 
to  bis  kneading  the  dough  the  right  way. 

58T,  Oommon  Bread  Dough. 


As  a  rule  use  one-fourth  yeast  to  three-fourths 
water. 

The  good  potato  yeast  with  no  germs  of  sourness 
in  it,  such  as  we  have  already  directed  how  to 
make,  does  no  harm  in  still  larger  proportions  whea 
the  weather  is  cold  or  time  of  mixing  late.  But 
the  whitest  bread  is  made  when  the  dough  can  have 
long  time  to  rise,  not  hurried  up. 

1  pint  of  yeast. 

3  pints  of  warm  water. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

8  pounds  of  flour. 

Makes  8  loaves  of  convenient  size. 


5S8. 


Setting   Sponge. 


Strain  the  yeast  and  water  into  a  pan  and  mix 
in  half  the  flour.  Beat  the  batter  thus  made 
thoroughly.  Scrape  down  the  sides  of  the  pan. 
Pour  a  spoonful  of  melted  lard  on  top  and  spread 
it  with  the  back  of  the  fingers.  This  is  to  prevent 
a  crust  forming  on  top.  Cover  with  a  cloth  and  set 
the  sponge  in  a  moderately  warm  place  to  rise  4  or 
6  hours. 

529,    Making  up  the  Dough. 


The  sponge  having  been  set  at  8  in  the  morning, 
beat  it  again  about  one,  add  the  salt  and  make  up 
stiff  dough  with  the  rest  of  the  flour.  Knead  the 
dough  on  the  table,  alternately  drawing  it  up  in 
round  shape  and  pressing  the  pulled-over  edges 
into  the  middle  and  then  pressing  it  out  to  a  flat 
sheet,  folding  over  and  pressing  out  again. 

Brush  the  clean  scraped  pan  over  with  the  least 
touch  of  melted  lard  or  butter — which  prevents 
sticking  and  waste  of  dough— place  the  dough  in 
and  brush  that  over,  too.  Where  economy  reigns 
the  strictest  a  little  warm  water  in  a  cup,  and  tea- 
spoonful  of  lard  melted  in  it  will  do  for  this  brush- 
ing over  and  insures  tlie  truest  saving  and  smooth- 
est bread.     Let  the  dough  rise  till  4. 

530.  

The  Important  Ten  Minutes  Kneading 


^.t  about  4  o'clock  spread  the  dough  on  the  table 
by  pressing  out  with  the  knuckles  till  it  is  a  thin 
uneven  sheet  Double  it  over  on  itself  and  press 
the  two  edges  together  all  around  first.  This 
imprisons  air  in  the  knuckle  holes  in  large  masses. 
Then  pound  and  press  the  dough  with  the  fists  till 
it  has  become  a  thin  sheet  again,  with   the  inclosed 


air  distributed  in  bubbles  all  through  it.  Fold  orer 
and  repeat  this  process  several  times  Then  roll  it 
up.     It  will  be 

LIKE  AN  AIR  CUSHION. 

Let  it  stand  a  few   minutes  before  making  into 
plain  rolls,  cleft  rolls,  or  loaves. 

Making  Dough  at  Night. 


It  would  be  a  great  hardship  and  in  most  cases 
impracticable  to  make  the  night  dough  by  the 
sponge  method,  although  the  shop  bakers  do  so,  and 
work  it  in  the  middle  of  the  night.  Quite  as  good 
bread  can  be  made  by  mixing  up  into  stiff  dough  at 
first,  provided  proper  precautions  be  observed. 
The  danger  is  of  too  much  fermentation,  the  dough 
being  ready  to  bake  hours  before  the  time.  When 
a  sponge  is  set  the  fresh  flour  added  to  it  hours  after 
checks  fermentation,  but  when  all  the  flour  is  wet- 
ted at  once,  there  is  no  check  except  the  coolness  of 
night  keeps  it  back.  In  summer  the  dough  may 
be  mixed  up  with  ice  Witer  instead  of  warm,  at  any 
time  after  supper  and  fermentation  will  not  begin 
for  some  time  after,  while  the  flour  is  becoming 
whiter  all  the  time  for  being  so  long  in  the  dough 
state. 


How  Much  Kneading. 


Small  quantities  of  dough  can  be  easily  injured  by 
too  much  kneading.  The  true  plan  is  to  keep  kneading 
till  its  India  rubber-like  toughness  causes  it  to  begin 
to  break  instead  of  spread  out.  Then  stop  and  let 
it  lose    its   springiness  beforekneading  again. 

531.  Premium  Family  Bread. 


To  have  bread  superlatively  white  and  fine  grain- 
ed and  good  besides,  put  the  dough  through  the 
preceding  described  kneading  process  three  or  four 
times  half  aa  hour  apart.  The  dough  made  up  stiff 
over  night  should  be  kneaded  at  4  in  the  morning 
and  again  an  hour  after,  in  order  to  make  good  rolls 
for  breakfast.  This  helps  to  make  up  for  the  loss  of 
the  thorough  heatings  of  the  sponge  when  the  sponge 
method  is  practiced. 


533.       Cooks  and  Bakers- 

"Why,  good  heavens  !  we  have  lost  our  way.  But 
what  a  delightful  smell  there  is  here  of  hot  bread, 
Andree." 

"That  is  by  no  means  surprising,"  replied  the 
other,  "for  we  are  close  to  the  door  of  a  baker's 
shop." — Dumas. 

Anciently, — we  read  in  Eoman  antiquities — the 
cook  and  baker  were  one.  In  the  hotel  work  of  the 
present  the  same  rule  holds.  This  little  book  recog- 
nizes a  distinction  between  the  hotel  baker  or  pastry- 
cook and  the  shop  baker.  The  latter  seldom  does 
well  when  he  tries  hotel  work.    The  hotel  pastry- 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


131 


cook  going  into  a  bakery  geaeially  makes  the  goods 
richer  than  shop  rules  and  profits  will  allow.  This 
book  applying  to  hotel  w  iys  pursues  a  new  path  and 
is  necessarily  a  little  at  variance  with  baker's 
methods.  If  it  were  a  baker's  routine  we  should 
have  to  describe  three  bucket  sponges  or  ten  buciet 
sponges;  and  when  the  baker  makes  up  his  dough 
he  adds  to  his  three  bucket  sponge  about  as  much 
more  warm  water. 

This  plan  of  adding  more  liquid  to  the  sponge  is 
commendable  for  checking  too  rapid  fermentation 
— best  way  when  loaf  bread  only  is  to  be  made,  but 
not  for  rolls  or  fancy  breads.  The  bakers'  ways 
are  referred  to  for  illuBtrations  for  comparison 
chiefly. 

The  essential  points  in  bread  making  are  the  same 
whether  in  shops,  hotel  kitchens,  or  private  houses. 
When  to  the  baker's  proper  ways  of  wor  ing,  we  in 
hotels  add  the  small  amount  of  enriching  ingre- 
dients which  they  do  not  need  and  cannot  afford  in 
their  larger  operations,  we  produce  the  extra  fine 
rolls  a  d  extra  bread,  having  which  people  think 
they  can  almost  dispense  with  everything  else. 

The  lump  of  dough  already  prepared,  smooth  and 
like  an  air  cushion,  lies  in  layers  or  flakes,  and  it 
is  another  part  of  the  art  of  good  bread  making  not 
to  disturb  them  much  in  making  up.  It  might  be 
hard  to  explain  why  this  stringy  texture  preserved 
in  tbe  loaves  sboull  make  a  difference  in  the  taste, 
but  it  is  plain  it  does,  and  in  this  lies  the  desirablei- 
nessof  whatare  known  as  French  loaves. 


633. 


Baker's  Cleft  Rolls. 


Petits  Pains. 


Take  a  portion  of  the  dough  flat  as  it  lies  and 
without  working  it  at  all,  spread  it  with  hands  and 
roUicg-pinto  a  sheet  less  than  an  inch  thick.  Cut 
this  into  2J  inch  squares.  Take  two  opposite  cor- 
ners and  press  them  into  the  middle,  making  long 
cushion  shapes  with  pointed  ends.  Place  them 
smooth  side  up  on  baking  pans  with  plenty  of  room 
betwaen.  Brush  over  with  water.  Let  rise  nearly 
an  hour.  Just  before  putting  in  the  oven  cut  them 
lengthwise  with  a  down  stroke  so  as  to  nearly  divide 
the  two  halves.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  abcut  ten 
minutes. 


534.   Baker's  French  Loaves. 

The  same  as  the  preceding,  of  larger  size.  Cut 
the  entire  piece  of  dough  in  about  10  pieces.  Flat- 
ten out  without  kneading  Bring  two  opposite  cor- 
ners together  and  press  them  into  the  middle  and 
press  the  loaf  sides  together  in  long,  pointed  shape. 
then  there  are  two  ways  of  proceeding. 


1.  Place  each  loaf  with  tbe  smooth  side  down  in 
a  flowered  napkin  or  piece  of  c  eaa  fljur  s  ck  and 
set  them  to  rise  an  hour  that  way,  ia  a  deep  pan  or 
box  just  touching.  The  oven  being  ready,  turn  tbe 
leaf  right  side  up  on  to  the  peel,  cut  it  lengthwise 
down  nearly  to  the  bottom,  and  sbp  it  to  iis  place 
on  the  oven  bottom. 

2.  The  above  plan  not  being  couveoient  to  prac- 
tice, make  the  leaves  as  befor  j  and  place  them  riglt 
side  up  in  the  usual  hotel  bakiug  pans,  brush  over 
with  water,  rise,  cutas  before,  and  bake  ia  the  pans. 
There  should  be  plenty  of  room  between.  Brush 
with  water  again  when  done. 


The  bakers  pursue  a  method  so  laboiious  in  mak- 
ing their  flaky,  stringy  French  loaves  as  would  for- 
ever deter  weakly  peop-e  from  (rjing,  if  ii  were  the 
only  way.  But  in  this  Cise  kuowiedge  ii  lierally 
power  The  dough  carefully  kneaded  oq  the  table 
in  the  way  that  has  been  directed  reaches  the  same 
condition  as  if  it  had  been  worked  in  a  trough  with 
water  with  an  immense  expenditure  of  strength. 


535. 


Hotel  Loaves. 


The  crusty  cleft  loaves  not  being  suitable  to  s'ice 
for  the  table,  nor  for  toast,  we  make  of  the  same 
dough  slightly  worked,  a  better  sort.  Cut  the 
dough  in  eight  pieces  and  moutd  them  up  round, 
but  not  enough  to  destroy  the  texture — only  from  6 
to  12  turns.  Let  stand  on  the  table  a  few  minutes. 
Press  them  out  like  dinner  plates.  Bring  over  two 
opposite  edges  and  press  them  into  the  middle  and 
place  the  long  loaves  side  by  side  ia  ihe  pans. 


To  Prevent  Splitting  at  the  Ends. 

It  is  curious  to  obrerve  that  tie  simple  way  of 
folding  the  loaf  just  described  prevents  splitring 
open  at  the  ends  in  baking,  while  one  more  folding 
in  of  the  other  two  sides  has  often  the  opposite  effect 
and  causes  much  waste  of  bread  that  cannot  be 
sliced. 


It  makes  a  thin  crust  to  bread  and  the  loaves  to 
part  clean  and  even  if  they  are  brushed  over  with  a 
touch  of  melted  lard  when  placed  in  the  pans. 


536. 


Plain  Rolls. 


Mould  the  dough  into  little  round  balls  and  place 
them  ju-t  touching  in  the  pan?,  slightly  greased  be- 
tween. Rise  an  hour;  bake  20 minutes;  brush  over 
with  water  when  done.  Keep  hot  without  drying 
out  or  sweating  the  bottom  on  the  iron  pan. 

We  shall  come  to  the  more  delicate  sorts  of  rolls 
further  on. 


182 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


53T. 


Baker's  Milk  Bread. 


Make  up  the  sponge  and  dough  for  this  the  same 
as  for  common  bread,  but  use  sweet  milk  instead  of 
water.  Its  merit  is  its  whiteness,  fioe  gmin,  and 
sweetness  of  taste  like  French  rolls.  There  are  three 
essential  points  to  be  observed. 

1.  Beat  the  sponge  and  dough  extremely  well, 
only  adding  the  flour  gradually  and  beating  it  in. 

2.  Have  the  dough  as  soft  as  it  is  possible  to  knead 
it  well,  too  soft  to  keep  good  shape  as  loaves  apart, 
and  bake  the  loaves  in  tin  moulds. 

3.  Put  it  in  to  bake  after  the  rolls  come  out.  As 
it  must  be  of  light  color  outside  and  browns  too 
easily  it  can  only  have  a  slack  oven  to  bake  in. 
Brush  over  the  loaves  with  milk  when  done. 


538. 


Rye  Bread. 


The  proper  method  with  rye  bread  is  the  same  as 
with  French  loaves,  that  is,  the  dough  is  to  be  work- 
ed in  layers  and  nothing  added  but  salt  to  the  yeast 
and  water  ;  the  dough  made  up  rather  stiflf  to  keep 
good  shape,  and  when  the  loaves  are  put  in  the 
oven,  instead  of  a  long  downward  cut  merely  score 
the  rye  loaves  across  diagonally  three  or  four  times. 

But  for  hotel  use,  where  there  is  no  brick  oven, 
it  does  as  well  or  better  to  make  long  loaves  in  pans 
as  already  directed  for  ordinary  hotel  bread. 


Some  Cheap  and  Good  Varieties  of 
539.  Sweet  Breads. 


There  is  old  Lindsay  of  Pilscottie  ready  at  my 
elbow,  with  his  Athole  hunting,  and  his  "lofted  and 
joisted  palace  of  green  timber;  with  all  kind  of  drink 
to  be  had  in  burg  and  land,  as  ale,  beer,  wine,  mus- 
cadel,  ma'vaise,  hippocras,  and  aquavitae;  with 
wheat-bread,  main-bread,  ginge-bread,  beef,  mutton, 
veal,  venison,  goose,  grice,  capon,  coney,  crane, 
swan,  partridge,  plover,  duck,  drake,  brissel^ock, 
pawnies,  black-cock,  muir-fowl  and  caper-cailzies; 
not  forgetting  the  excelling  stewards,  cunning  bax^ 
ters,  excellent  cooks,  and  pottingars,  with  confec- 
tions and  drugs  for  desserts." — Old  author  quoted  by 
Scott —  Waverly. 

We  had  dinner — where  by  the  way,  and  even  at 
breakfast  as  well  as  supper  at  (he  public  houses  on 
the  road,  the  front  rank  is  composed  of  various 
kinds  of  "sweet  cakes,"  in  a  continuous  line  from 
one  end  of  the  table  to  the  other.  I  think  I  may 
safely  say  that  there  was  a  row  of  ten  or  a  dozen 
plates  set  before  us  two  here.  To  account  for  which , 
they  s«y  that  when  the  lumberers  come  out  of  the 
woods,  they  have  a  cnving  for  cakes  and  pies  and 
such  sweet  things,  which  there  are  almost  unknown. 
And  these  hungry  men  think  a  good  deal  of  getting 
their  money's  worth.  No  doubt  the  balance  of  vic- 
tuals is  restored  by  the  time  they  reach  Bangor — 
Mattawamkeag  takes  off  the  keen  edge. — Thoreau — 
T/te  Maine  Woods. 

So  it  appears  from  these  extracts  "ginge-bread" 
has  been  thought  worthy  to  be  mentioned  in  pla  e 
in  the  grandest  kind  of  a  feast,  and  there  are  places 


where  all  sorts  of  sweet   cakes  are  eaten   with   a 
hearty  relish. 

We  who  have  to  serve  such  kinds  side  by  side 
with  hot  French  rolls  need  such  assurances  as  the 
above  — seeing  our  sweet  breads  and  cakes  c jme 
back  egain  neglected.  The  simpler  kinds  of  sweet- 
ened breads  and  good  ginger  bread  seem  to  be  more 
acceptable  in  the  ordinary  hotel  where  the  "balance 
of  victuals"  is  always  nicely  adjusted,  than  the 
richer  sorts  yet  to  come. 


540. 


German  Baker's  Coffee  Cake. 


4  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 

8  ounces  of  sugar.    - 

8  ounces  of  butter  or  lard. 

1  egg.     (Not  essential.) 

Take  the  dough  at  noon  and  mix  in  the  ingredi- 
ents all  slightly  warm  Knead  it  on  the  table  with 
flour  sufficient.  Set  to  rise  until 4  o'clock.  Knead 
it  again  by  spreading  it  out  on  the  table  with  the 
knuckles,  folding  over  and  repeating.  Roll  it  out  to 
sheets sca'-cely  thicker  than  a  pencil,  place  on  bat- 
ing  pans,  brush  over  with  either  water  or  meited 
lard,  or  milk.  Rise  about  an  hour.  Score  the  cakes 
with  a  knife  point  as  you  put  them  in  the  oven  to 
prevent  the  crust  puffing  up.  Bake  about  15  min- 
utes. 

One  of  the  attractions  of  this  plain  cake  is  the 
powdered  cinnamon  and  sugar  sifted  on  top  after 
baking,  the  cake  being  first  brushed  with  sugar  and 
water.     Cut  in  squares  and  serve  hot 

The  foregoing  makes  a  sheet  of  cake  large  enough 
to  cover  a  stove  top. 


541. 


Pic-Nic  Bread. 


Another  form  of  the  coffee  cake,  cheap  and  good 
for  school  pic-nics  and  the  like,  and  for  sale. 

Mix  a  few  ra'sins  or  currants  in  the  German  coffee 
cake  dough.  Roll  out  pieces  to  the  size  of  dessert 
plates  and  half  inch  thick,  brush  over  with  a  little 
melted  lard,  double  them  over  like  large  split  rolls. 
Rise  and  bake  like  bread,  and  brush  over  with  a 
mixture  of  water,   egg,    and  sugar. 


Currant  Buns  —Chelsea  Buns. 
542.  Washington  Buns. 


Hot  for  supper.  No  eggs  required.  Favorite 
sort  and  quickly  made.     This  makes  45. 

4  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 

8  ounces  of  currants. 

8  ounces  of  softened  butter. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

It  is  soon  enough  to  begin  these  2  hours  before 
supper.  Take  the  dough  from  the  rolls  at  say  4 
o'clock.  Spread  it  out,  strew  the  currants  over  and 
knead  them  in      Roll  out  the  dough  to  I  inch  sheet. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


133 


Spread  the  butter  evenly  over  it  and  the  sugar  on 
top  of  that  Cut  in  bands  about  as  wide  as  y  ur 
hand.  Roll  tbem  up  like  roly-poly  puddings. 
Brush  these  long  rolls  all  over  slightly  with  a  little 
melted  lard  so  that  the  buns  will  not  stick  together 
in  the  pans.  Then  cut  off  in  pieces  about  an  inch 
thiok.  Place  flit  in  a  buttered  pan,  touching  but 
not  crowded.  Rise  nearly  an  hour.  Bike  15 
minutes.  Brush  over  with  sugar  and  water.  Dredge 
sugar  and  cinnamon  over. 

543.  

Oommon  Rusk,  or  Buns  "without  Eggs. 

4  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 

6  ources  of  butter  or  lard, 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  tablespoon  ful  of  cinnamon  extract. 

Take  the  dough  at  about  noon  and  work  in  the 
other  ingredients.  Let  stand  an  hour,  then  knead 
thoroughly  At  4  o'clock  knead  again,  mould  int> 
round  balls,  grease  between  each  oue  as  you  place 
them  in  the  pans.  Rise  an  hour,  bake  20  minutes. 
Placed  close  together  in  the  pans  they  are  the  ordi- 
nary sweet  ru3k8.  Set  some  distance  apart  they 
are  round  flat butss;  maybe  sugared  on  top  and havft 
currants  or  carraway  seeds  mixed  in  the  dough. 
The  richer  French  varieties  will  be  f.und  further 
on. 


544.  Yeast-Raised  Gingerbread. 

4  pounds  cf  good  light  bread  dough. 

1 J  pounds  of  d  irk  molasses. 

12  ounces  of  butter  or  lard. 

1  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

Little  cinnamon,  or  other  spice. 

Flour  to  work  up  to  soft  dough. 

An  egg  or  two  does  not  hurt  it.  Make  up  by  the 
cofiee  cake  directions.  Dredge  granulated  sugir 
over  the  top  when  done.     Good  for  supper,  hot. 

Speaking  of  gingerbread,  however,  the  nex^, 
although  not  made  with  bread  dough,  is  the  best  sort 
yet  discovered  for  hotel  suppers.  Gingerbread  is 
inclined  to  be  tricky  and  uncertain,  or  more  proper- 
ly speaking,  stieky  and  uneatable,  if  not  made  wi  h 
care.  Too  much  molasses  or  too  much  soda  or 
powder  are  usually  the  faults.  This  can  be  made 
with  buttermilk  and  sodi  if  desired. 

545.  Sponge  Gingerbread. 

Sometimes  called  black  cake  and  spice  cake. 

1  pound  of  molasses. 

6  ounces  cf  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

6  eggs. 

1  ounce  of  ginger. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powc-jr. 


2  pounds  of  flour. 
Mel!  the  butter  in  the  milk  ma^le  warm,  and  pour 
them  into  the  molasses   and   sugar,  mix,  add  ^ggs, 
ginger,  powder,  flour.     Beat  up  well. 


545  a.     Fairy  Gingerbread. 

No  eggs  needed. 

1  cup  butter— 7  oz. 

2  cups  light  brown  sugar — 13  oz. 
1  cup  milk — ^  pint. 

4  cups  flour — 1  pound. 

1  teifpoonful  ground  ginger. 
Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  slightly  and  rub  them 
together  to  a  cream.  Add  the  milk,  ginger  and 
flour.  It  ma'^es  a  paste  like  very  thick  cream. 
Spread  a  thin  coating  of  butter  on  the  baking  pans, 
let  it  get  quite  cold  and  set,  then  spread  the  paste 
on  it  no  thicker  than  a  visiting  card,  barely  cover- 
ing the  pan  fr  m  eight.  Ba^  e  in  a  slack  oven,  and 
when  done  cut  the  sheets  immediately  into  the 
shape  and  size  of  common  cards. 


54C5. 


"Old  Fashioned"  Gingerbread. 


1^  pounds  of  molasses. 
8  ounces  of  butter  or  lard. 
3  eggs. 
1  ounce  of  ground  ginger. 

1  teaspoonful  of  soda,  large. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

1  pint  of  hot  water. 

Salt  when  lard  is  used. 

Melt  the  butter  and  stir  it  into  the  molasses  and 
then  the  eggs,  ginger  and  soda. 

The  mixture  begins  to  foam  up.     Then  stir  in  the 
flour,  and  lastly  the  hot  water,  a  little  at  a   time 
Bake  in  a  shallow  pan. 


The  three  varieties  preceding  do  well  as  small 
cakes,  baked  in  patty  pans  or  gem  pins.  The  next, 
besides  doing  for  sheet  gingerbread,  can  a^so  be 
mads  into  the  plainest  ginger  cookies.  Need  brush- 
ing over  with  milk  to  look  well.  Sugar  or  comfits 
may  be  dredged  on  top. 

547. 

Soft  Gingerbread  -without  Eggs. 

1  pound  of  molasses. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

1  teaspoonful  soda  and  same  of  baking  powder, 

4  pounds  of  flour- 
Warm  the  butter  with  the  sugar  and  molasses  and 
beat  up  about  5  minutes.  Mix  in  the  soda  and  all 
the  rest  of  ingredients. 


134 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


It  makes  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out  and  baked 
on  pans. 

However,  it  is  easy  enough  to  make  ginger  cakes. 
But  the  baking  of  them — "aye,  there's  the  rub!" 
There  are  cooks  who,  while  the  range  is  hot,  cook- 
ing supper,  can  bake  gingerbread  of  a  nice  light 
color  without  burn,  gall,  or  bitterness,  but 

548.       English  Tea  Cakes. 

2  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 

12  ounces  of  sugar. 

12  ounces  of  butter. 

4  eggs. 

J  pound  of  flour  to  work  in. 

I  pound  of  currants. 

Takes  about  5  hours  time.  Mix  all  the  ingredients 
with  the  dough  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  Let  ri^e 
till  4.  Then  beat  the  dough  well  with  a  spoon — it 
is  a  little  too  soft  to  handle— and  spread  it  thin  on 
buttered  pie  piates.  Rise  about  an  hour.  Bake, 
and  split  open  and  butter  them. 

One  teaspoonful  of  carraway  seeds  will  suit  better 
than  the  currants  in  some  countries.  Where  the 
children  have  been  raised  on  "Abernethy  biscuits," 
to  wit ;  and  know  what  carraway  seeds  are.  In 
contrary  situations  it  hurts  a  hous?,  and  the  cook's 
sensibilities  to  have  people  picking  the  seeds  out, 
thinking  they  are  dirt. 


540.     Hotel  "French  Rolls  • 


An  Inquiry  into  their  Origin. 


Dishes  worthy  of  special  attention  had  ttteir  name 
and  quality  ceremoniously  proclaimed. — Philosophi- 
cal History  of  Cookery. 

An  uncommon  dish  was  introduced  to  the  sound 
of  the  flute,  a^id  the  servants  were  crowned  with 
flowers.  In  the  time  of  supper  the  guests  were  en- 
tertained with  mu-ic  and  dancing,  *  *  * 
but  the  more  sober  had  only  persons  to  read  or  re- 
peat selec!  passages  from  books  — Roman  Antiquities 

The  kinds  of  rolls  shown  in  the  cut,  which  are  un- 
derstood to  he  par  excellence  French  rolls,  are  of  chief- 
est  interest  to  us  in  hotels,  for  the  two  reasons  that 
§T«rybody  likes  them — most  potent    consideration 


where  the  aim  and  end  of  all  endeavor  is  to  please~> 
and  that  (hey,  at  least,  appear  to  J  ;  of  American 
origin. 

I  sud  as  much  once  to  an  old  and  educated  Ital- 
ian cook  who  had  been  a  great  traveler,  but  be  smil- 
ed:— "America  is  too  young  to  have  any  cookery  of 
her  own  ;  you  can  find  a  foreign  origin  for  every 
dish  you  have  I  remember  seeing  such  rolls  as 
those  on  the  tables  at  restaurants  and  cafis  in  Eu- 
rope, when  a  boy,  over  fifty  years  ago"  Yet  at 
last  this  wag  but  a  conjecture  He  could  not  be  sure 
that  what  he  saw  were  not  the  baker's  c'eft  rolls 
mentioned  some  pages  back,  and  which  have  no 
greit  merit  over  ordinary  baker's  bread.  One  of 
the  best  Amercan  domestic  c  ok-books  also  men- 
iions  "theclefc  rolls  which  we  so  often  find  on  the 
tables  of  the  city  restaurants"  And  we  still  re 
main  in  ignorance,  even  if  they  prove  the  same, 
whether  they  may  net  have  been  presented  by 
America  to  Europe  at  first.  The  name,  French  r  11, 
may  be  but  an  American  application,  as  if  it  had 
been  taken  for  granted  that  whatever  is  admirab  e 
in  cookery  must  be  French.  It  is  the  popular  under- 
standing of  a  split  roll  or  pocket-book  shape  that  can 
be  pulled  open  hot,  and  admits  a  lump  of  butter 
within  its  melting  clasp,  but  never  so  far  as  I  can 
find  out  has  been  described  in  any  but  American 
book  sand  those  domestic. 

The  earliest  dated  mention  of  French  rolls  I  have 
met  with  in  the  merely  cursory  search  which  such  a 
mijor  matter  justifies,  is  the  following,  recently 
republished  in  the  Reportee  from  "Forney's  Pro- 
gress" : 

*  *  *  *  i«  A  public  resort  known  as  Spring 
Garden.  The  hotel  attached  to  the  premises  was 
siiuated  on  the  late  site  of  the  Museum,  at  the  cor" 
ner  of  Ann  street,  (New  York)  In  1760  1  find  the 
advertisement  of  John  Elkin,  its  proprietor,  oflFering 
to  the  public,  'breakfast  from  7  to  9  ;  tea  in  the 
afternoon  from  3  to  6  ;  the  best  of  g-een  tea  and  hot 
French  rolls,  pies  and  tarts  drawn  from  7  to  9 ; 
mead  and  cakes.'  " 

This  shows  that  French,  rolls  were  "the  thing"  at 
a  date  even  anterior  to  the  culminati'g  period  of 
modern  French  cookery,  before  the  revolution. 

But  the  French  rolls  of  that  advertisement ;  of 
the  quotation  from  Savarin  at  the  opening  of  this 
book,  of  the  quotation  from  Bulwer  at  the  head  of 
the  next  division — the  French  rolls  of  the  trades- 
people who  buy  them  hot  for  breakfast  of  the  bakers 
in  all  the  European  towns  are  only  little  round 
loaves — crowded  into  the  pans  so  that  they  rise  to  a 
(all  shape,  and  taken  from  the  oven  at  intervals, 
kept  smoking  hot  under  green  baize  covers — made 
a  trifle  richer  than  ordinary  bakers'  bread.  The 
sp'it  roll  shown  in  the  picture  is  in  all  likelihood  an 
American  improvement 

In  "Quenliu  Durivard"  (chap,  iv)  Sir  Walter 
Scott  gives  the  most  explicit  information  in  this  re- 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


135 


g»rd.  At  the  breakfast — "There  wai  a  delicate 
ragout,  with  just  ih&t  petit  point  de  V  ail  which  Gas- 
cons love  and  Scottiahmen  do  not  hate.  There  wjs 
<ho  most  exquisite  white  bread,  made  iuto  little 
round  loaves  called  boules,  (whence  the  bakers  took 
their  French  name  Boulangers)  of  which  the  crust 
was  so  inviting  that,  even  with  water  alone  it  would 
have  been  a  delicacy.  But  the  water  was  not 
alone  ** 

The  probability  that  split  rolls  are  an  American 
improvement  is  strengihened  by  the  apparant  ab- 
sence of  any  mention  of  tbem  in  the  best  foreign 
cookbooks.  Seeing  how  suitable  the  shape  shown 
in  the  cut  is  for  saadwicbes  one  would  have  expect- 
ed Jules  Gouflfe  (about  1860)  to  adopt  it  instead  of 
this  circumstantial  direciion  for  • 'rolls  with  foie- 
gras  ;"  he  says,  "Taie  24  small  French  rolls  of  an 
oval  shape,  2\  inches  by  1^,  rasp  the  rolls  and  sit 
them  open  lengthwise  without  separating  them  ea- 
tirely."  The  Cuisine  Classique  directs  much  the 
same  way,  to  cut  oflE"  the  tops  of  roll  and  brioche, 
(sort  of  butter  rolls)  and  remove  the  inside  crumb, 
for  sandwiches  and  timbales.  So  a!so  the  "Modern 
Cook,"  (1840)  and,  later,  '-Model  Cookery,"  which 
only  directs  to  make  French  rolls  in  long  shapes 
placed  side  by  side.  A  number  of  leaser  works 
cither  ignore  French  rolls  a  togethrr  or  treat  the 
making  up  in  round  balls  as  a  matter  of  course. 

On  the  contrary,  the  writer  of  these  lines  worked 
with  a  man,  A.  Nels  m  byname,  making  bo.h  the 
shapes  shown,  as  far  back  a  1850,  on  one  of  the  dd 
time,  high-living  floating  palaces  of  New  Orleans, 
and  found  them  then  as  ever  since  the  most  popular 
of  all.  The  man's  home  was  at  Nashville,  Tenn. 
Judging  from  his  age  and  experience  aad  his  un- 
conciou3ne3S  of  there  being  any  novelty  in  this  sort 
of  rolls  it  seems  fi.ir  to  assume  that  he  had  been  used 
to  them  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  before.  Some  four 
or  five  years  after  I  saw  the  same  in  Cincinnati  and 
Evansvi  le,  under  the  name  of  Parker  House  rolls 
Since  then  in  numerous  American  publications  they 
may  be  found  ca  led  by  those  and  other  names — 
Tremont  House  rolls  for  one. 

Mr.  Charles  Wood,  for  an  ordinary  lifetime  baker 
at  the  Tremont  House,  Boston,  drawn  out  in  reply 
to  a  newspaper  paragraph  crediting  him  with  the 
origination  of /VencA  rolls  in  this  country — mean- 
ing  the  split  rolls  shown  in  the  cut— only  dates  back 
the  making  of  his  pattern  about  twentj-six  years, 
and  explains  that  Mr.  Paran  Stevens  required  him 
to  make  rollslike  some  he  had  seen  on  a  European  tour 
Mr.  Wood  does  not  in  his  published  lei  ter  say  that  the 
rolls  he  produced  were  the  s^ me  as  the  Europem, 
but  only  that  after  several  months  trial  he  produce  < 
what  satisfied  Mr.  I'aran  Stevens — who  may  still 
kave    had  in  mind  the  French  brioche^  or  even  the 


c'eft  rolls  whose  texture  is  in  flakes  and   coils,  and 
their  merit  being  individual  loaves. 

It  appears  that  (he  general  hotel  and  traveler's 
understanding  of  the  term  is  by  no  means  univer- 
sal. Let  us  n  ake  rolls  French,  accordiag  to  the 
European  unders'anding,  and  never  so  good,  if  they 
be  round,  tall,  oval,  oblong  or  twisted,  some  person 
will  send  tbeoi  back,  and  looking  at  the  bill-of  faro 
will  say  bring  him  some  French  rolls.  And  another 
great  lover  of  bread  will  say,  "these  are  all  very 
we!1,  but  you  ought  to  see  the  French  rolls  they 
have  at — "  some  other  house.  Nevertheless  a  letter 
from  Russia  published  'n  the  Reporter  two  years 
ago  remarked  how  much  better  the  dedicate  soft  rolls 
there  were  "than  the  French,  which  are  nearly  all 
crust.'' 

These  Russian  rolls  were  doubtless  the  same  as  our 
"French."  Puzzled  by  these  diverse  ideas  I 
wrote  to  the  Royal  Baking  Powder  Co.,  who  had  ex- 
hibited the  making  of  "Vienna  Rolls"  with  powdpr 
at  the  Centennial,  in  Philadelphia,  and  the  pres  - 
dent  kindly  answered  with  drawings  showing  for 
French  rolls,  the  cleft  crusty  loaves  of  the  bakers — 
directions  for  making  which  bave  already  been  given 
at  length — and  their  Vienna  rolls  were  in  shape 
like  those,  plain  ones,  in  our  picture.  There  is  a 
remark  in  one  of  the  higher-class  cook-books  recent- 
ly published,  that  hot  breads  for  breakfast  and  sup- 
per are  but  little  used  except  in  the  West.  Accord- 
ingly our  hotel  French  rolls  are  no:  described  in  it  at 
all.  And  yet  the  Parker  and  Tremont  Houses  are 
in  the  East,  and  Boston  people  everywhere  are  exhib- 
iting their  rolls  to  the  heathen  with  pride.  Are  those 
Boson  hotels  to  be  regarded  asderiving  much  of  their 
fame  from  the  introduction  of  this  peculiar  institu- 
tion where  before  it  was  unknown?  As  an  example 
of  how  a  thing  nay  haxe  various  names  in  difl"er- 
ent  Jocilities  :  Last  year  a  Canadian  hotel  steward 
who  went  West  and  conducted  a  first-class  house, 
well  knew  the  merit  and  importance  of  fine  rolls, 
yet  so  little  acquainted  with  their  usual  name  that 
he  had  them  printed  on  his  bill-of-fare  "buns."  So 
without  really  appearing  on  the  bill  at  all,  the  s  lit 
ro  Is  experienced  an  increasing  demand  from  three 
or  four  hundred  to  over  eight  hundred  at  a  meal, 
and  so  it  went  till  abo-it  the  time  the  third  batch  of 
supper  and  breakfast  bills  were  to  be  printed,  when 
the  pastrycook  ventured  to  intimate  that  "buns" 
were  very  rarely  called  for,  but  the  "no  names'*-^ 
the  French  rolls  which  did  not  appear  at  all  upon  the 
bill  were  having  a  tremendous  runail  the  same.  Then 
the  name  was  printed  right.  It  is  not  to  be  inferred 
that  the  hotel  steward  was  ignorant,  but  only  that 
these  rolls  were  not  familiarly  known  in  the  section 
whence  he  came. 


Perhaps  nine  out  of  ten  of  the  people   outside  the 
circulatijg  intelligence  of  our  hotels,  if  agkrd   tht 


136 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


meaning  of  the  term  "pocket-book  roll,"  would 
guess  it  to  mean  a  roll  of  five  and  ten  dollar  bills — 
sometimes  called  greenbacks,  and  sometimes  Spin- 
nerisms.  It  is  no  such  thing,  but  a  roll  just  like 
Those  in  our  cut,  It  is  a  local  domestic  name  for 
the  hotel  French  roll.  A  Western  author,  Miss  Far- 
man,  of  Michigan,  so  describes  it  and  the  method 
of  making,  in  the  "Cooking  Club  of  Tu-wh;t  Hol- 
low," in  the  children's  Wide  Awake,  and  speaks  as 
if  the  appellation  were  one  well  known  and  under 
stood  among  home  folk,  although  so  strange  to  cur 
hotel  bill-of-fare.  However,  it  must  be  owned,  our 
rolls  are  the  more  like  a  pocket-book,  (with  s.lk  or 
satin  covers)  the  better  t  hey  are  made;  for  t  here  is  more 
sense  in  having  a  somewhat  flat  shape,  not  too  thick 
for  a  bite,  than  the  taller  form  that  is  neither  loaf 
nor  slice 

Through  all  the  foregoing,  and  many  other  con- 
siderations too  tedious  to  mention,  I  have  arrived 
at  the  suppositions  that  French  rolls,  as  understood 
by  commercial  travelers  and  other  hotel  frequenters, 
are  of  American  origin;  that  they  were  evolved  out 
of  the  competition  between  Boston  hotels ;  that 
they  were  first  a  specialty  of  the  Parker  House, 
that  thence  tbey  spread  rapidly  to  wherever  there 
was  good  livirig,  because  the  travelling  people  went 
braogiyg  about  them,  and  that  they  have  found  their 
way  like  pilgrims  and  strangers  into  the  domestic 
world,  contentedly  taking  any  pet  name  that  may 
have  been  thrust  upon  them.  All  of  which  is  re- 
spectfully submitted. 

650.  

However  that  may  prove  tobe,  I  would  advise  that 
rolls  of  any  other  shape  be  denominated  on  the  bill- 
of  fare  simply  hot  rolls,  and  the  term  French  roll, 
in  American  hotels,  should  always  be  understood  to 
mean  a  split  roll  like  these  shown. 


French  RoUs.     Parker  House,  Tremont 
House,  or  Pocket-book  RoHs. 


Sacred  heaven  !  what  masticators  !  what  bread  ! 
— Quentin  Durward. 

"Well,"  said  Mr.  Copperas  who,  occupied  in  fin- 
ishing the  buttered  cake,  had  hitherto  kept  silence, 
"I  must  be  oflF.  Tom,— I  mean  De  Warens,— have 
you  stopt  the  coach?" 

"Yees,  sir." 


"And  what  coach  is  it?" 

"It  be  the  Swallow,  sir." 

"0,  very  well.  And  now  Mr.  Brown,  having 
swallowed  m  the  roll,  I  will  e'en  roll  in  the  Swallow 
— Ha,  ha,  ha  I  At  any  rate,"  thought  Mr.  Copperas 
as  he  descended  the  stairs,  "Aehas  not  heard  that 
before." — Bulwer — The  Disowned. 

Perhaps  we,  behind  the  scenes  in  hotels,  take 
different  views  of  what  is  important,  from  the  ma- 
jority of  people.  With  the  matter  in  hand,  fur 
instance.  Individuals,  or  a  family,  va^j  never  even 
see  a  hot  roll  on  their  table,  and  ye  never  realize 
how  unfortunate  they  are.  The  "sour  grapes'"  phi- 
losophy may  help  them,  and  they  believe  hot  rolls 
are  not  wholesome,  anyway.  It  is  really  of  no  con- 
sequence in  isolated  cases.  But  when  a  whole  hotel 
full  of  people  show  a  decided  liking  for  rolls,  so  that 
they  could  not  well  enjoy  a  meal  without,  does  not 
the  increased  size  of  the  matter  justify  our  case? 
There  are  lean  times,  too,  in  hotels,  when  the  meat 
is  poor,  game  out  of  market  and  spring  lamb  not 
come  in ;  when  poultry  almost  disappears  and 
oysters  are  no  more  ;  neither  choice  vegetables  nor 
new  fruits  have  arrived.  Then  the  regulars  grow 
discontented  and  seek  new  pasture — at  the  restau- 
rants where  sliced  baker's  bread  is  set  before  them 
— at  the  opposition  hotel  where,  whatever  else  they 
may  try  to  have,  the  rolls  are  unwholesome  wads  of 
dough,  or  dry  and  unpalateable  biscuits  and  grimy 
cakes.  Then  the  regulars  return  to  their  pr  per 
homes  like  good  boys,  and  say  it  is  all  very  well 
over  there,  but  they  doa't  have  good  rolls — and 
w  th  such  rolls  as  these  they  can  almost  dispense  with 
everything  else.  In  such  cases  may  not  the  pastry- 
cook claim  a  right  to  loom  up  tall  and  exalt  his 
trade? 


551. 


French  Rolls. 


For  about  60  split  rolls. 

3  large  cups  of  water  or  milk. 
1  large  cup  of  yeast. 

1  ounce  of  salt.     (A  heaping  tablespoon.) 

2  ounces  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  lard  or  butter. 

4  pounds  of  fl  )ur 

Set  sponge  at  8  in  the  morning  with  half  the  flour. 

At  12  or  1  add  all  the  enriching  ingredients  and 
work  up  stiff. 

All  the  detailed  instructions  for  making  the  dough 
and  kneading  it  the  right  way  have  been  given 
already  under  the  head  of  common  bread. 

Afer  the  4  o'clock  kneading  proceed  to  make  the 
dough  into  rolls. 

Persons  in  practice  find  it  quickest  to  pull  off 
pieces  of  dough  of  right  size  and  mould  them  up 
instantly. 

1.  Others  cut  off  strips  of  dough,  roll  them  -  in 
lengths  and  cut  these  up  in  roll  sizeso 

2.  Mould  them  up  round  with  no  flour  on  the 
beard  and  only  a  dust  on  the  hands,  and  place  them 


THE  ABCERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


187 


in  regulf    rows  on    the  table — the   smoothest    side 
down 

3.  Take  a  little  rolling  pin — it  looks  like  a  piece 
of  new  broom  handle — and  roll  a  depression  across 
the  middle  of  each,  as  in  the  cut. 

4.  Brush  these  over  with  the  least  possible  melt- 
ed lard  or  butter,  using  a  tin-bound  varnish  brush 
for  the  purpose. 

5.  Double  the  rolls,  the  two -buttered  sides  to- 
gether as  seen  in  the  cut  below,  and  place  them  in 
the  pans  diagonally,  with  plenty  of  room  so  they 
will  not  touch 


6.  Brush  over  the  tops  of  the  rolls  in  the  pans 
with  the  least  possible  melted  lard  again  and  set  tl  em 
to  rise  about  an  hour — less  or  more  according  to 
temperature. 

7.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven,  about  10  minutes.  Brush 
over  with  clear  water  when  done. 

Keep  baking  at  short  intervals  and  keep  hot  with- 
out drying  out. 

The  particular  feature  of  these  rolls,  it  is  seen,  is 
the  folded  shape,  allowing  them  to  be  opened  when 
done,  and  this  is  the  result  ofbrushing  over  with  but- 
ter.  Rolls  placed  close  together  in  pans  will  part  clean 
and  entirely  separate  wherever  they  have  been  so 
greased  between  in  the  making. 

The  preceding  receipt  producing  fine  French  rolls, 
good  enough  for  anything,  the  next  are  no-names. 
The  addition  of  eggs  and  butter  does  not  make  a  vast 
diflFerence,  but  still  makes  them  creamy  colored  and 
crisp. 

And  if  a  body  choose  to  name  either  of  the  two 
for  some  favorite  hotel,  need  any  other  body  kick? 
Possibly  their  name  may  be  Parker,  Tremont,  Re- 
vere, Brunswick,  French,  Clarendon,  St.  James  o^ 
Windsor  rolls.  Who  shall  decide  or  prove  what 
they  are? 


552.   No-Name  Rolls.     No.  1. 


553.  No-Name  Rolls.    No.  2. 


3  large  cups  of  milk. 
1  large  cup  of  yeast. 
3  ounces  of  sugar.  , 

3  yolks  of  eggs. 

4  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 
1  ounce  of  salt. 

All  the  flour  the  fluids  will  take  up,  or  ^  pounds 
Make  up  either  sponge  or  stiff  dough,  as  may  be 
most  convenient.  The  latter  way  is  best  at  night. 
All  the  ingredients  may  be  put  in  at  once,  but  the 
milk  should  not  be  made  too  warm  in  summer,  when 
the  dough  has  to  be  made  12  hours  before  wanted. 


Ricl\,est. 


3  cups  of  sweet  milk. 

1  cup  of  yeast. 

6  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

6  yolk  s  of  eggs. 

3  ounces  of  sugar, 

1  ounce  of  salt. 

All  the  flour  it  will  take  up — or  about  5  pounds. 

A  larger  proportion  ofyeastmay  beusedin  winter 
The  dough  ought  not  to  want  coaxing  under  a 
stove  to  rise.  Our  yeast  made  from  good  stock 
brings  the  dough  up  fast  enough  anywhere  in  a 
warm  room,  and  bread  thus  easily  raised  is  alw  ys 
the  best  and  sweetest.  Half  yeast  to  half  milk  or 
water  is  better  thao  too  little. 


If  these  pockel-book  shaped  rolls  are  such  general 
favorites,  why  are  they  not  universally  adopted  and 
found  everywhere?  The  directions  a  little  way 
back  numbered  1  to  7  explain  the  reason  why. 

These  rolls  are  very  tedious  to  make  and  take 
up  one  person's  time  from  all  other  kinds  of  bread. 
When  business  is  dull  the  pastrycook  makes  them  in 
great  perfection  for  the  few  people,  but  as  soon  as 
the  house  begins  to  fill  up  the  work  begins  to 
crowd  and  the  tedious  split  rolls  are  discon- 
tinued just  at  the  time  when  they  are  really 
needed  and  would  do  most  good.  The  reme- 
dies are,  to  leave  out  the  unimportant  kinds  and 
give  the  time  to  these,  and  where  it  is  impossible  to 
give  these  rolls  the  5  or  6  handlings,  rather  than 
abandon,  cut  them  out  instead.  To  do  this,  roll  the 
dough  to  a  sheet  as  if  for  biscuit.  Brush  over  with 
melted  lard.  Cut  out  and  double  over.  French 
rolls  made  without  yolk  of  egg  will  come  out  the 
smoothest-looking  when  baked,  if  made  that  way. 


554. 


Butter  Rolls. 


Sometimes  called  tea  cakes,  and  also  Sally  Lunn. 

2  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 
1  ounce  of  sugar  (a  spoonful). 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

3  yolks  of  of  eggs. 

1  teacup  of  milk  or  cream. 

1  pound  of  flour  to  work  in. 

Take  the  dough,  already  light,  4  hours  before  the 
meal,  and  mix  in  all  the  ingredients.  Let  rise  2 
hours.  Knead,  then  make  the  dough  into  round 
balls  and  roll  them  flat.  Brush  over  with  melted 
butter  and  place  two  of  the  flats  together,  one  on  the 
other.  Press  in  the  center.  Rise  an  hour,  and 
bake.  When  done,  slip  a  thin  shaving  of  fresh  but- 
ter inside  each  and  brush  the  top  over  si  ghtly,  too. 
Should  be  made  very  small  if  to  serve  whole,  or  as 
large  as  saucers,  to  cut. 


138 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


555, 


Fancy  Twist  Rolls. 


For  variety's  sake  a  fey  simple  shapes   should  be 
practiced,  besides  the  plain,  round  and  oblong  kinds 


TWIST  ROLLS  OR  COFFEE  CAKES. 

550.  Sandwich  Rolls. 

1  pound  of  puff-paste. 

2  pounds  of  French  roll  dough. 

Roll  out  in  thin  sheets,  separately,  place  one  on 
the  other,  fold  over  in  three,  like  pie  paste,  and  roll 
out  thin.  Fold  over  and  roll  out  once  more  ;  then 
cutout  and  butter  and  fold  over  to  make  pocket- 
book  rolls,  or  else  in  round  biscuits.  Rise  and  bake 
same  as  rolls.  When  no  pie  paste  on  hand,  butter 
miy  be  spread  and  rolled  into  the  dough  with  the 
same  effect. 


557, 


Finest  Hotel  Bread. 


Sometimes  called  Vienna  bread,  and  French  bread. 

Make  the  dough  by  the  receipt  for  French  split 
rolls,  and  knead  it  several  times  accordiog  to  the 
extended  directions  already  given  for  common  bread. 

This  makes  bread  so  white  and  fiae  that  it  vies 
with  the  napkins  on  the  best  appointed  tables,  and 
elicits  admiration  from  the  most  f  istidious.  It  is  a 
feather  in  the  hotel  baker's  cap  when  very  particu- 
lar, excellent  and  discriminating  housekeepers  out- 
side, send  to  beg  a  loaf  of  this  extra  fine  bread  for 
their  company  days.  That's  the  on  y  sort  of  pre- 
miums hotel  fellows  are  ever  allowed  to  win.  Re- 
member, this  bread  should  be  kneaded  3  or  4  differ- 
ent times,  at  intervals  apart. 


558.    Doughnuts  for  the  Million. 


A  regular  Cape  Cod  man  with  whom  we  par'eyed, 
*■  *  *  he  looked  as  if  be  sometimes  saw  adough- 
n  r,  but  never  descended  to  comfort — too  grave  to 
laugh,  too  tough  to  cry,    as    indifferent    as  a  clam. 

*  *  *  He  stood  in  front  of  us  telling  stories  and 
ejecting  tobacco  juice  into  the  fire  right  and  left.     * 

*  *  At  breakfast  we  Lad  eels,  buttermilk  ca.e, 
cold  bread,  green  beans,  doughnuts  and  tea  1  ate 
of  the  apple  sauce  and  the  doughnuts,  which  1 
thought  had  sustained  the  least  detriment  from  the 
old  man's  shots. — Thoreau — Cape  Cod. 

Why  does  everybody  laugh  when  there  are  d  ugh- 
Buts  in  the  case?  Even  Thoreau,  who  laughs  but 
Mldom.    There  is  a   pleasant   little    piece  about 


doughnuts  in  the  Congressional  Record,  that  was 
spoken  by  a  Pacific  coa  t  senator— it  is  too  long  to 
repeat  here— and  it  is  said  all  the  senators  laughed 
at  that.  But  if  we  place  on  the  board  some  royal 
doughnuts,  perhaps  the  original  kind  wi  h  their 
original  Germ»in  name  A;rojt?/e7i— krapfen  with  apricots 
or  wiih  cheese,  or  flavored  with  orange  flower  water, 
it  loo^s  as  if  it  will  be  bard  to  find  the  fun  that 
dwells  in  native  doughnuts,  and,  essentially,  that  is 
all  these  are,  though  they  have  appeared  in  regal 
bills-of-fare. 


559. 


German  Puffs. 


1  pound  of  light  bread  dough. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  sugar. 
^  cup  of  milk. 

10  yolks  of  eggs. 

1 J  pounds  of  flour. 

Little  salt. 

These  can  only  be  made  the  soft,  light  yellow 
puff-balls  they  ought  to  be,  by  a  strict  and  thorough 
method  of  working  the  ingredients  together. 

Take  the  dough  6  hours  before  the  meal  and  mix 
in  the  butter,  sugar,  milk  and  salt.  Set  in  a  warm 
place  awhile,  then  thoroughly  beat  together.  Add 
two  yolks  at  a  time  and  flour  by  littles  alternately, 
beating  against  the  side  of  the  pan.  Then  turn  out 
the  dough  and  knead  it  on  the  table.  Set  away  to 
rise  about  3  hours  Knead  the  dough  twice  more, 
as  directed  for  rolls,  but  more  thoroughly,  till  air 
will  snap  from  the  edges  when  pinched  Mould  out 
in  little  balls.  Brush  these  over  with  melted  lard 
to  prevent  hardening  outside.  Rise  half  an  hour 
or  more  on  greased  pans.  Fry  in  sweet  lard.  May 
be  sugared  over  or  served  with  sauce,  or  as  dough- 
nuts, cold.     They  soak  grease  if  raised  too  much 

560.  

"Little  Pittsburgh"  Doughnuts. 

These  are  doughnuts  with  a  little  history  attach, 
ed — but  let  us  make  them  first. 

4  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 

8  ounces  of  sugar  and  syrup  mixed. 

2  eggs. 

2  or  3  ounces  of  lard,  melted. 

Powdered  sugar  to  dredge  over. 

Lard  to  fry. 

Take  the  dough  from  the  breakfast  rolls,  say  at  9 
in  the  morning,  in  Winter.  In  Summer  the  dough 
worked  up  at  mid-day  will  do.  Mix  in  the  ingre- 
dients, let  stand  half  an  hour.  Work  up  stiff  with 
fl  jur  sufficient,  and  set  to  rise  about  4  hours.  Then 
knead,  and  roll  it  out  to  a  sheet.  Brush  over  the 
whole  sheet  of  dough  with  very  little  melted  lard. 
Cut  out  with  a  two-pound  tomato  can,  and  cut  out 
the  middle  of  each  with  a  little  empty  two  ounce 
ground  cinnamon  can.     This   makes   rings,    which 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


189 


must  be  set  to  rise  on  greased  pans  about  ^  hour, 
then  dropped  ia  hot  lard.  Sift  sugar  over  when 
done.     They  cook  in  about  5  minutes. 


When  Leadville  first  began  grinding  in  crowds  of 
mining  men  poor,  and  grinding  them  out  rich,  the 
poor  men  as  thej  went  in  were  often  hard  put  to  it 
for  something  to  eat,  and  they  never  laughed  at  a 
doughnut,  but  treated  it  with  respect.  As  saloons, 
boarding  houses,  clothing  stores,  stables,  theatres, 
and  even  saw-mills  and  wood  yards  hastened  to  c  ill 
themselves  the  "Little  Pittsburgh,"  for  the  very  fa- 
mous mine  which  was  at  first  ihe  life  of  the  camp, 
the  bakers  did  likewise,  and  the  makers  of  the  pre- 
ceding excellent  doughnr.ts  finding  them  a  sort  of 
bonanza  as  yet  undeveloped,  hastened  to  call  them 
Little  Pittsburghs,  too.  Purs  ing  this  vein  they 
went  o  J  and  advertised  extensively.  You  could  get 
a  Little  Pittsburgh  doughnut  for  ten  cen's  at  anj 
hour  of  the  day  or  night,  and  a  glass  of  dried-apple 
cider  for  the  same  price ;  but  in  a  commutation 
arrangement  you  could  get  a  d  ughnut  and  a  glass 
of  the  cider  together  for  fifteen  cents.  So  Little 
Pittsburgh  doughnuts  became  a  part,  and  indeed,  a 
leading  feature  of  the  camp.  They  were  in  two-line 
local  notices  scattered  all  through  the  papers,  so 
that  nobody  could  miss  them.  It  seemed,  in  fact, 
as  if  all^the  news  was  gathered  for  the  express  pur 
posf  of  drawing  attention  to  doughnuts.  One  day 
it  would  be : 

*'Two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  has 
been  oflFered  and  refused  for  the  Chrysolite  mine." 
And  as  a  sequel : 

"There's  noihiugin  camp  can  equal  those  Little 
Pittsburgh  doughnuts."     Or,  perhaps  : 

"Our  esteemed  fellow  citizen  fell  down  a  shafi 
600  feet  deep,  last  evening.  He  struck  on  his  head 
and  probably  never  knew  what  hurt  him." 

"0 1  those  Little  Pittsburgh  doughnuts  are  so 
very  fine,  if  you  try  them  once  you'll  buy  them 
every  time,  at  the  Union  Bakery." 

So,  although  the  doughnuts  were  alwayn  the  same, 
there  was  always  somethicg  fresh  and  pleasant  to 
give  them  a  new  zest  Sometimes  it  would  be  only 
a  hanging,  or  a  midoight  garroting,  but  the  chorus 
of  doughnuts  kept  right  on  at  the  end  of  every  per- 
formance, great  or  small.  As  a  consequence  these 
doughnuts  had  a  great  run.  It  is  hard  to  fathom 
motives.  Perhaps  some  people  ate  them  fur  spi-e, 
trying  to  abolish  them  and  their  "damnable  itera- 
tion," but  of  course  that  was  useless,  there  were 
plenty  more  where  these  came  from.  They  were 
placed  in  a  tentative  way  on  the  best  hotel  tables, 
and  they  took — or  at  least  the  people  took  and  par- 
took. Evidently  the=e  Little  Pittsburghs  were  pop 
ular  with  all. 

But  the  halcyon  days  of  ten-cent  dcughnuts  were 
Bhort  and  few,  for  soon  competition  came  and  began 
cutting  them  out  wi  h  three-pound  tomato    cans  in- 


stead of  two-pound,  making  them  so  much  larger. 
Not  satisfied  with  that,  other  competitors  left  out 
the  eggs  and  half  the  t-ugar  and  sold  &>  five  cents. 
There  wa=i  no  margin  to  pay  fur  advertisir  g  ia  that. 
Little  Pittsburgh  doughnuts  weakened  and  c<me 
down  and  the  advertising  c  ased.  None  may  know 
what  subtle  conLectiun  there  may  be  in  the  cases, 
but  both  the  Leadville  newspapers  soon  after  died, 
and  the  Little  Pittsburgh  mine  itself  experienced  a 
temporary  collapse.  I  think  it  would  have  paid 
both  the  papers  and  the  mining  company  to  have 
gone  on  advertisi?)g  the  doughnuts  at  bed-rock 
pricrs,  or  even  free,  for  when  they  left  them  out 
they  left  out  the  spice  of  the  paper,  and  as  the  dough- 
nuts had  boosted  Little  Pittsburgh  i'  would  only 
have  heen  fair  for  Little  Pittsburgh  to  boost-  but  it 
is  useless  moralizing. 

The  next  are  the  cheap,  light-colored  and  large 
doughnuts  that  knocicd  the  bottom  out  of  the  rich, 
brown  Little  Pittsburghs. 


561.      Cheapest  Doughnuts. 
Made  without  Bggrs. 

4  pounds  of  bread  dough 

6  or  8  ounces  of  sugar 

4  ounces  of  butter  or  lard 

Make  same  way  as  the  preceding.  Take  care  to 
have  the  sugar  all  well  dissolved,  and  having  knead- 
ed the  dough  very  thoroughly  do  not  let  the  dough- 
nuts rise  much,  lest  they  poak  up  grease. 


50S. 


Bread  Doughnuts. 


Oaly  plain  dough,  or  French  roll  dough.  Cut  out 
bi:«cuit  shapes,  let  rise,  and  fry.  These  .  re  very 
of;  en  found  at  railroad  lunch  stands  ;  nearly  as 
cheap  as  bread  and  butter,  and  very  saleable. 

There  is  a  suspicion  of  tautology  in  '^the  direction 
sometimes  given  to  fry  in  hot  lard  ;  however,  that  is 
the  shortest  way  of  saying  the  lard  should  be  already 
hot. 


5G3. 


Some  KruUers. 


The  cakes  at  tea  ate  short  and  crisp. — Goldsmith, 

Cruller,  KruUer.  Old  English,  crull,  curled; 
crule  to  curl.     German,  kruUe,  something  curled. 

A  curled  or  crisped  cake  boiled  in  fat  —  Webster. 

The  bakers  for  doughnuts,  but  women  should 
make  the  crullers  every  time.  Too  heavy  a  hand 
with  the  sugar  and,  worse  still,  with  the  baking 
powder  will  make  them  a  burning  disgrace,  a  greasy 
sain  upon  hotel  cookery.  Besides,  only  women 
know  how  or  have  patience  to  curl  crisp  crullers 
into  wonderful  knots,  twirls,  twists  and  ringlets. 


The  primitive  form  of  cruller  is  plain  beaten 
biscuit  dough,  rolled  extremely  thin  and  cut  into 
ribbons,  then  fried.  A  handful  of  sugar  added  to 
the  dough  makes  a  better  kind,  and  many  are  the 


140 


THE  AMEBICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


people  in  the  d'^mestic  world   who    would    not  give 
them  in  exchange  for  any  more  cake-like  varieties. 
For  hotel  supper  tables,  to  change  with   dough- 
nuts, the  following  are  the  best. 

564.  

Crullers.    Best  and  Quickest. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

3  or  4  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
Large  half  pint  of  milk. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 
6  ounces  of  sugar. 

4  eggs.    Salt.    Nutmeg  flavor. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour.  Dissolve  the  sugar 
in  the  milk,  add  the  eggs,  and  the  butter  melted, 
salt  and  flavor.  Pour  this  fluid  mixture  into  the 
middle  of  the  flour  and  mix  up  like  biscuit.  Cut  out 
and  fry  right  away.  A  quick  way  to  shape  them 
is  to  cut  in  rings  with  a  double  cutter,  having  a  small 
cutter  in  the  middle,  and  another  way  is  to  cut  the 
thin  rolled  sheet  in  bands  with  a  paste  Jagger,  and 
divide  that  into  pieces  like  three  fingers  attached  at 
one  end — or  like  a  fork  head.  Sugar  over  when 
done. 


These  crullers  take  twice  as  much  time  to  fiy  as 
doughnuts. 

565.  

Richest  Crullers,   or  Pried  Cakes. 

Good  to  keep,  to  send  to  folks  by  stage  or  express, 
or  to  pack  up  for  a  fishing  party  or  a  mountain 
climbiog.     Don't  put  any  baking  powder  in  them. 

12  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 

6  eggs.     Flavoring. 

Half  cup  of  milk. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

Mix  up  like  cake,  by  creaming  the  butter  and 
sugar  together,  then  beating  in  the  eggs  and  milk 
and  flour.     Roll  out,  cut  in  shapes  and  fry. 


In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  it  may  be  useful  to 
remember,  all  the  rusks,  buns  and  brioches  can  be 
fried  as  dougnuts  when  there  happens  to  be  more 
dough  than  is  needed  to  bake. 

566.  

Albany  Rolls.    Vienna  Rolls.    Delavan 
Rolls. 


Make  good  roll  dough  with  the  finest  flour  and 
knead  it  well  in  layers  as  already  directed  for  other 
varieties. 

The  milk  bread  dough  is  understood  to  be  the 
proper  article,  but  the  hotels  where  milk  can  be  had 
for  bread-making  must  be  very  few,  and  no  person 
not  otherwise  informed  can  tell  the  difference  be- 
twixt that  and  our  French  roll  dough. 

1.  Mould  out  little  balls  as  for  split  rolls. 

2.  Roll  these  out  in  shape  of  plates,  and  very 
thin. 

8.    Fold    these   by  bringing  over    two  opposite 


edges  and  making  them  meet  in  the  middle,  and 
then  bring  over  the  other  two  edges  likewise,  mak- 
ing a  square  piece  of  folded  dough. 

4.  Roll  this  out  a  little  flatter,  brush  over  with 
melted  butter  or  lard,  and  fold  over  like  other  split 
rolls.  They  are  square  ended  instead  of  half  moon 
shapes. 

This  is  the  slowest  and  most  tedious  of  all  shapes, 
but  the  rolls  are  almost  as  flaky  as  pie  paste. 


56T,     BRIOCHE  AND  RUSKS. 


For  Breakfast,    Lunch  and  Tea. 


Perhaps  you  want  to  know  what  sort  of  a  break- 
fast one  gets  at  Young's.  I  wii^h  this  was  an  essay 
on  housekeeping,  so  that  every  point  could  be  en- 
larged upon.  But  the  same  wonder  comes  up  at 
every  notable  restaurant,  why  people  can't  hive  just 
as  good  eating  at  home  every  day  and  why  they 
never  by  any  possibility  do  so.  Why  the  dining- 
room  cannot  be  as  coo',  as  orderly  and  spotless,  the 
melon  as  crisp,  the  saiai  as  fresh  and  piquant,  the 
cutlet  as  brown  without,  as  melting  and  juicy  with- 
in, or  the  bread  and  butter  as  perfect  as  that  at 
Young's,  will  always  be  remarkable  to  any  one  con- 
demned  to  domestic  interiors. — Boston  Letter  in  N. 
Y.  World. 

Dust  unto  dust;  what  must  be  must. 
If  you  can't  get  crumbs,  you  had  best  eat  crust. 

—  Old  Song. 

She  would  talk  of  the  last  tragedy  with  the  em- 
phatic toneof  aconpois  eur,  in  the  same  b.eath  that 
she  would  ask,  with  Maria  Antoinette,  why  the  poor 
people  were  so  clamorous  for  bread  when  they  might 
buy  such  nice  brioche  for  two-pence  apiece  — Bulwer- 
Pelham. 

The  above  allusion  to  brioche  appears  in  nearly 
the  same  words  also  in  one  of  Dumas'  prefaces — 
"Louise  de  la  Valliere"' — I  think,  but  the  solecism 
circulates  with  the  point  upon  other  articles  of  diet 
as  well;  as  in  one  place  the  surprise  is  that  poor 
peasants  should  prefer  potatoes  to  meat,  and  only 
last  month,  in  a  magazine,  it  waa  a  ''French  prin- 
cess," and  "chicken  broth  " 


So  far  as  living  on  the  best  of  bread  goes,  there 
need  be  no  reason  why  people  condemned  to  do- 
mestic interiors  should  have  to  suffer  from  the  com- 
parison with  those  in  hotels  and  restaurants,  for 
after  the  details  of  the  simple  art  of  making  it,  set 
forth  in  these  columns,  there  is  only  needed  dili- 
gence and  a  proper  degree  of  pride  in  the  resulting 
product. 


The  English  are  corrupting  our  language  dread- 
fully. They  call  our  crackers  biscuits;  our  biscuits 
they  call  Scotch  scones;  our  muffins,  if  they  have 
them,  seem  not  to  be  called  muffins,  for  thit  name 
is  given  to  a  poorer  sort  that  is  baked  on'akind  of 
griddle,  and  in  like  manner  they  call  our  rusk  buns, 
while  fresh  and  hot,  and  only  accept  them  as  T-usks 
when  sliced  and  dried  brown  in  the  oven. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


141 


Brioches  and  French  rusks,  the  half  dozen  varie- 
ties of  hot  breads  which  seem  to  be  popular'y  associ- 
ated with  those  names  in  the  United  Slates,  ars  un- 
surpassed for  the  afternoon  teas  which  are  becoming 
fashionable,  and  for  lunch,  and  for  French  break- 
fasts of  bread  and  cofifee 

We  find  *'brioche,  with  cheese,"  and  wiih  fruit, 
a- so  forming  parts  of  a  course  ia  some  "royal''  din- 
ner menus. 

At  the  great  meat,  fowl,  fish  and  potato  suppers 
and  breakfasts  of  American  hotels,  these  kiuds  seem 
to  find  no  proper  place.  They  are  well  worih  prac- 
ticing, however,  for  more  domestic  occasions,  and 
have  always  been  considered  the  highest  test  of 
skill  in  bread-making. 


508.    Brioche,  or  Butter  Rusks. 


1  pound  of  good,  lively,  roll  dough. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 

2  ounces  of  sugar. 

Half  cup  of  milk  or  cream. 
10  yolks  of  eggs. 

Little  salt. 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

They  require  5  hours  time  to  make,  raise  and 
bake. 

Warm  the  butter,  sugar  and  cream,  with  the 
dough,  together  in  a  pan,  and  then  mix  thoroughly. 
Beat  in  the  yolks,  two  at  a  time,  and  most  of  the 
flour,  gradually  bringing  the  mixture  to  a  smooth, 
yellow  dough.  Then  knead  it  thoroughly,  and  after 
that  set  it  away  to  rise.  In  about  three  hours  knead 
the  dough  the  second  time,  and  an  hour  after  knead 
once  more,  then  make  out  as  direct  ed  for  French 
rolls  and  notch  the  edges  with  a  knife,  to  make  the 
shape  shown  in  the  cut  of  rolls. 

They  rise  and  bake  in  the  same  time  as  rolls. 
Brush  over  with  butter  when  done. 

560.  The  Many  Uses  of  Brioche. 

It  being  eminently  French,  and  every  French 
cook  mailing  briuche  by  a  diff'erent  receipt — usu- 
ally with  more  butter  than  the  foregoing — as  might 
be  expected,  this  unsweetened  kind  of  cake  figures 
considerably  in  French  cookery.  One  says  it  is  a 
spongy  kind  of  cake  resembling  Bath  buns.  An- 
other says  it  should  be  rich,  yellow  and  like  a 
sponge,  whence  it  tikes  its  name.  One  mixes  rai- 
sins,  currants  and  shred  citron  in  it  for  lu  ch  atd 
tea  bread,  and  makes  it  in  various  fancy  shapes  and 
twists,  also  in  large  cakes.  Another  bakes  the 
dough  in  f jrm  of  round  rolls,  cuts  off"  the  top,  takes 
out  the  crumb  and  fiJa  with  chicken  or  other  meat, 
or,  bakes  iu  little  moulds  like  oval  gem  pans,  re- 
moves the  inside  and  places  in  the  shell  or  timbale 
thus  made  a  cooked  bird  with  its  gravy  and  dishes  a 
pyramid  of  these  on  a  napkin.      Still  another  steeps 


slices  of  brioche  in  orange  syrup  and  fries  them  in- 
closed in  batter  as  fritters;  and  at  a  costly  and  ele- 
gant dinner  given  in  New  York,  on  last  Christmas, 
"brioche  crusts,  with  fruit"  appeared  among  the 
pastries  But  the  following  sweet  varieties  might 
be  employed  for  that. 

One  poinr  in  bread  making  that,  like  hand- 
moulding,  can  only  be  learned  through  practice  is 
the  right  pitch  of  lightness  to  be  allowed.  Some 
stress  has  been  laid  on  the  lightness,  sponginess  and 
large  size  of  rolls  and  loives,  because  of  the  aver- 
sion we  all  have  to  heavy  bread,  which  is  ruinous 
to  health.  The  inexpericLcd  are  cautioned  against 
running  to  the  other  extreme  There  is  a  point 
when  the  rolls  have  reached  a  certain  height  they 
begin  to  settle  out  of  shape  and  to  crack  open.  A 
little  before  this  is  the  time  to  bake. 


Butter  rusks  of  our  pattern  should  open  and  curl 
backwards  in  baking,  therefore  should  not  be 
brushed  over  with  butter  when  panned  as  rolls 
are. 


5tO. 


French  Sweet  Rusks.    Richest. 

The  receipt  for  making  these  is  inquired  for  at 
peaces  where  they  are  made  in  perfection,  perhaps 
oftener  than  any  other.  They  are  cakes  rather 
than  bread  ;  very  showy,  and  never  fail  to  attract 
notice.  Fhould  only  be  attempted  with  the  strong- 
est yeast  or  lightest  dough,  as  they  are  otherwise 
slow  to  rise.  The  art  to  be  acquired  through  prac- 
tice is  to  make  them  elastic  and  pleasant  eating,  not 
clammy  like  half-baked  bread. 

1  pound  of  light  dough. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

6  yolks  and  1  whole  egg. 

Ila'f  cup  of  milk. 

Flavoring  as  indicated  below. 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

If  for  afternoon  tea,  take  the  dough  from  the 
breakfast  rolls,  and  six  hours  before  the  rusks  are 
wanted  place  it  in  a  pan  with  the  bulter,  sugar  and 
cream.  Let  all  get  warmed  through  and  the  butter 
softened,  then  mix  them  thoroughly.  Next  add  the 
eg  s  and  flour  by  littles,  alternately,  beating  the 
mixture  up  against  the  side  of  the  pan,  to  make  it 
smooth  and  elastic.  Spread  the  last  handful  of 
flour  on  the  table,  knead  the  dough  as  for  rolls, 
pressing  and  spreading  it  out  with  the  knuckles, 
and  folding  it  over  repeatedly.  Set  it  in  a  warm 
placefjr2or  3  hours.  Then  knead  it  the  sec- 
ond time.  Every  time  the  dough  is  doubled  on  it- 
self the  two  edges  should  be  pressed  together  first. 
When  the  dough  of  this  and  of  the  brioche  receipt  is 
good  and  finished  it  looks  sil'ay,  and  air  will  snap 
from  the  edg^  when  it  is  p-nched.      After  this  !•»■ 


143 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


tmd  kneading  the  dough  should  stand  an  hour  and 
then  be  kneaded  once  more  and  made  into  shapes 
The  smaller  notched  bhape  in  the  engraving  of  rolls 
is  perhaps  the  best  for  these.  Do  not  brush  over 
the  tops  with  butter  lest  they  run  out  of  shape.  Ri  e 
in  the  pans  1 J  hour?.  Bake  in  a  slow  ovea  fif  ee: 
miautes  Brush  over  when  done  with  sugar,  egg, 
and  water,  mixed  and  flavor  with  vanilla,  and 
dredge  granulated  sugar  over. 

A  little  flavoring  may  be  added  ia  the  dough  ; 
either  vanilla  extract,  vanilla  and  rose  mixed,  or- 
ange or  nutmeg ;  but  for  a  nice  variation  grate  in  the 
rind  of  one  or  two  lemons  and  squeeze  in  some  of 
thejuice. 


If  to  be  made  overnight  without  light  dough  for  a 
start,  all  the  ingredients  can  be  mixed  at  once  bj 
taking  a  pint  of  yeast  and  half  pint  of  milk — or 
nearly  all  yeast — adding  ail  the  other  articles  atd 
flour  to  make  soft  dough. 


6Y1. 


French  Sweet  Rusks. 


Best  Every-day  Sort. 


2  pounds  of  light  dough. 

4  ounces  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  butter. 

4  yolks  of  eggs. 

Large  half  cup  of  milk. 

Flour  to  make  it  soft  dough. 


5TS.  English,  or  Hot  Cross  Buns. 

1  pint  of  "liquor" — being  half  yeast,  half  water  or 
mlk. 

1  teasjTOonful  of  salt. 
4  ounces  of  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

2  eggs— or  4  yolks,  better. 
Nutmeg  or  other  extract. 
Flour  to  mal,e  s(  ft,  dough. 

Mix  up  everything  at  once.  Manage  according 
to  extended  directions  f  r  rusks.  Make  into  round 
balls  flattened.      Brush  over  with  syrup  when  done. 

But  then  rusks  will  still  be  dry  rusks  or  "tops  and 
bottoms,"  according  to  some  understandings  of  the 
term,  and  hotel  pastry  cooks  are  often  called  on  to 
make  them  at  pleasuring  places,for  wine  parties,  and 
fur  ou'-door  occasions. 


5Y3. 


Brussels    Rusks. 


Take,  for  preference,  the  dough  made  by  the  re- 
eaipt  for  rusks  designated  as  the  best  every  day 
sort,  and  when  finished  make  it  ii  long  loaves  and 
bake  in  tin  moulds  of  bric'i  shape.  When  a  day 
old  sllct  these  and  brown  the  slices  in  the  oven. 


Brioche  dough  is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
above,  and  also  with  carraway  seeds  mixed  in.  A 
teaspoonful  does. 


5T4. 


Marlborough  Rusks. 


Make  the  one  pound  common  sponge  mixture — it 
has  already  been  twice  given  in  the  book  of  pud- 
dings—and add  thereto  one  ounce  of  carraway  seeds 
Rake  in  long,  narrow  moulds.  When  a  day  old 
slice,  a  d  brown  the  slices  in  the  oven.  These 
crisped  slices  can  be  kept  a  long  )  ime,  and  serve 
much  the  same  purpose  as  sweet  crackers. 

575.        Russian  Wine  Rusks. 


This  and  the  next  succeeding  kind  want  the  same 
skill  in  making  that  sponge  cake  d .  es.  1  hey  belong 
properly  to  the  department  of  cakes,  and  may  be 
used  as  such  as  well  as  in  the  form  of  dry  rusks. 

14  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 

12  eggs. 

8  ounces  of  almonds. 
8  ounces  of  unbolted  flour. 
1  teaspoonful  of  almond  extract. 

Cru>h  the  almonds  with  the  rolling-pin  on  the  ta- 
ble without  removing  the  s'  ins,  and  then  mix  them 
with  the  half  pound  of  graham  flour — which  should 
have  the  coarsest  bran  sifted  away  from  it  before 
weighing.  Beat  the  sugar  and  eggs  together  in  a 
cool  p'ace  about  half  an  hour.  When  perfectly 
light  acd  thick  sfir  ia  the  flavoring  and  the  flour 
and  almonds.  Bake  in  long,  narrow  moulds.  Slice, 
and  brown  the  slices  ia  the  oven. 


5TO. 


Anisette  Rusks. 


8  ounces  of  granulated  sugar. 
10  eggs. 

4  ounces  of  alnoonds. 

6  ounces  of  flour. 

A  quarter  ounce  of  anise  seed. 
Mince  the  almonds  as  fine  as  possible,  and  without 
taking  ofl*  the  skins.  Mix  them  and  the  anise  seed 
with  the  flour  dry.  Then  beat  the  sugar  and  eggs 
quite  light,  as  for  sponge  cake,  and  lightly  stir  in 
the  flour,  etc.  Bake  in  long  and  narrow  moulds, 
and  when  a  day  old  slice,  and  brown  the  slices  on 
both  sides  in  the  oven. 

Muffins,    Waffles,   Gaufres,    Flapjaok» 

At  last,  to  be  sure,  Mr.  Warri-igton  burst  into  a 
loud  laugh.  It  was  when  the  poor  chaplain,  after 
a  sufficient  discus^sion  of  muffins,  eggs,  tea,  the  news, 
the  theaires,  and  S)  forth,  pulled  out  a  schedule  of 
his  debts  — Thackeray' s  Virginisaiu. 

There  were  piping  hot  wheaten  cakes — no  Indian 
bread,  for  the  upper  part  of  Maine,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, i^  a  wheat  country — him  and  eggs,  and 
shad  and  salmon,  tea  sweetened  with  molasses,  and 


THE  AMEHIOAN  pastry  COOK. 


143 


Bweet  cakes  incontradistinctioa  to  the  hot  cikes  not 
sweetened,  the  one  -white,  the  other  yellow,  to  wind 
up  w  th,  Such  we  found  was  the  prevailing  fare, 
ordinary  and  extraordinary,  along  this  river. — Tho 
reau-The  Maine   Woods. 

Beauiiful  evening  I  For  thee  all  poets  have  i  ad  a 
song  *  *  We  love  to  feel  the  stillness, 
where  all,  two  hours  back,  was  clamor.  *  * 
We  love  to  fi!l  our  thoughts  with  speculations  on 
man — even  though  the  man  be  the  muffin  man. — 
Bulwer-Paul  Clifford, 


5TT.     Englisli  Comraon  Muffins. 

Baked  in  rings  on  a  huge  griddle  and  carried 
around  lo  customers,  from  the  shops.  Simply  a 
common  bread  sponge  of  the  cheapest,  the  muffins 
being  puled  apart  and  toasted,  almost  invariably, 
before  they  are  eaten. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

1  quart  of  mixed  water  and  yeast. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  the  above  together  carefully,  to  have  no  lumps 
in  it,  at  mon.  The  water  should  be  warm  and  the 
sponge  set  to  rise  in  a  warm  place.  At  about  3 
beat  the  sponge  thoroughly,  and  the  longer  the  bet- 
ter, with  spoon  or  paddle,  and  let  rise  again.  Beat 
up  again  before  using.  Set  tin  ring^  the  size  of 
saucers  on  the  griddle,  half  fill  them  wi  h  the  batter, 
let  bake  light  b-own  on  the  bottom,  then  turn  them 
over  and  bake  the  other  side.  The  batter  should  be 
thicker  than  for  pancakes  and  thinner  than  frit- 
ters. 


The  preceding  being  the  cheapest  made  for  sale, 
private  parties  make  richer  qualities  with  milk  and 
a  little  shortening. 

The  Boston  muffin  man  had  a  name  for  some  kind 
of  a  hot  breakfast  and  tea  cake  which  the  great 
word-catcher  dictionaries  have  failed  to  rake  in. 
The  word  was  pyflit;  his  painted  sign  read  "Muffins, 

Py flits,  Oatcakes,  Goff^ers,  Made  Here  by  ." 

His  place  was  a  red  brick,  private  house  on  Li- 
quorpond  street — of  course  everybody  knows  Li- 
quorpond  street,  Boston — it  leads  into  High  street 
on  the  north  and  the  Witham  river  runs  at  the  back 
of  the  old  brick  stores  on  the  further  side  of  that, 
and  the  river  itself  is  as  lively  as  a  street  when  the 
tide  is  up,  although  its  channel  to  the  sea  is  only 
maintained  by  means  of  bundles  of  wicker  stuff, 
like  the  Mississippi  jetties.  The  muffin  man  used 
to  start  out  punctual  to  the  moment,  morning  and 
evening,  and  cry  "muffins  and  py  flits"— and  them 
only,  so  his  literary  customers  must  have  known 
what  "pyflits"  meant.  In  that  they  had  the  advan- 
tage of  these  columns.  In  saying  literary  custo- 
mers we  only  give  honor  where  honor  is  due,  for 
Boston  has  always  been  famous  for  literature  and 
good  hotels.  The  Roberts  Brothers  were  located  in 
Narrow   Bargate,  opposite   the    "Red  Lion  Inn " 


They  used  to  issue  a  compendium  with  their  alma- 
nac, and  tried  to  p'ease  the  Middlemarch  [  eople  and 
"I'ly  over"  John  Noble,  the  other  bok  eller,  by 
leaving  out  the  horse-doctoring  matter  and  s  gns  of 
Zodiac,  and  putting  in  fine  pictures  from  the  art 
union  instead.  These  Roberts',  strikln r  into  a  new 
path  right  through  the  fences  of  old  custom,  were 
both  young  men.  But  of  the  hotels,  the  "Peacock" 
was  the  one  patronized  by  the  American  travellers. 
(Hawthorne's  England  and  Italy.)  The  "Rei 
Lion"  was  frequented,  principally,  by  "Cripps,  the 
Gamer,"  and  the  "White  Hart"  by  the  farmers,  and 
the  "White  Horse"  by  market  people.  Boston  stee- 
ple, that  most  remarkable  landmark,  towers,  an 
architectural  glory,  into  the  world  of  rooks  t  nd 
crows,  three  hundred  feet  above  these  all.  It  can 
be  seen  thirty  miles  out  at  sea,  and  from  Lincoln 
Minster,  thirty  miles  the  other  way.  But  of  course 
every  Bostonian  knows  of  the  presence  of  this  great 
tower,  although  he  may  never  raise  hia  eyes  to  look 
at  it  so  common,  nor  care  to  remember  old  John  Cot 
ton,  the  preacher.  Bat  the  Boston  muffia  man  with 
his  mysterious  py  flits,  not  to  be  found  ia  the  una 
bridged,  was  an  object  of  more  immediate  interest. 
The  people  "off  the  Skelligs,"  and  John  Halifax, 
Getit,  should  know  whatpyfli'S  are,  but  as  for  us  we 
can  only  jump  to  the  mild  guess  that  they  must  have 
been  crumpets  under  an  ancient  name. 

578.  

Cheapest  Yeast- Raised   Batter  Cakes 

Without  Eggs 


English  Crumpets. 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

1  quart  of  warm  water. 

1  cupful  of  yeast. 

1  basting-spoonful  of  melted  lard. 

1     *•  "  of  syrup 

1  small  teaspoouful  of  salt 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  like  netting  sponge 
for  bread — with  very  cold  water  if  made  over  night 
for  breakfast,  or  else  6  hours  before  the  meal  with 
warm.  Beat  thoroughly  both  at  time  of  mixing  and 
just  before  baking. 

Such  cakes  as  these,  baked  rather  dry  and  not  too 
thin,  are  made  and  sold  in  shops  which  have  no 
other  business  but  these  and  muffins  in  all  the 
cities. 

The  "crumpets"  are  commonly  toasted  in  their 
native  lands. 

5  TO.  

"Wheat  Batter  Cakes.    !  'Flannel"  Cakes. 

2  pounds,  or  quarts,  oCflour. 
2  quarts  of  warm  water. 

1  cup  of  J  east. 

1  basting-spoonful  of  syrup. 

4  ounces  of  melted  lard. 

4  eggs.     Salt. 

Mix  the  flour  into  a  sponge   with  the  yeast  and 


144 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


water,  either  over  night  or  6  hours  before  supper. 
An  hour  before  the^meal  add  the  enriching  ingredi- 
ents and  beat  well, 

580.  

Baking  Powder  Batter  Cakes. 

Mix  up,  just  before  the  cakes  are  wanted  as  in  the 
preceding  receipt,  but  without  yeast.  Just  bafore 
you  begin  to  bake  add  two  or  three  large  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking  powder,  take  the  large  wire  egg 
whisk  and  beat  the  batter  thoroughly — a  vast  im- 
provement. 

Hotel  cooks  probably  have  dififerent  estimates  of 
the  public  likes  and  dislikes  from  other  and  domes 
tic  peoples*.  Their  opportunities  are  dififerent.  The 
conditions  are  dififerent.  The  restraints  are  re- 
moved from  the  people  who  eat,  and  they  indulge 
their  tastes  without  the  hindrances  of  economic 
considerations.  The  cooks  know  no  individuals, 
but  as  the  tide  comes  and  goes  they  learn  what  the 
tide  of  humanity  likes  to  consume  the  most  of  For 
instance,  one  favorite  article  which  is  not  found  half 
often  enough  is  graham  cakes. 


581. 


Graham  Batter  Cakes. 


1  pound  of  graham  flour,  not  sifted. 
1  pound  of  white  flour. 
1  quart  of  warm  water. 

1  cupful  of  yeast. 

2  eggs.    Salt. 

*2  ounces  of  syrup. 

2  ounces  of  melted  lard. 

Set  the  batter  as  a  sponge  like  other  yeast-raised 
cakes,  either  over  night  or  6  hours  before  supper, 
and  add  the  enriching  ingredients  an  hour  before 
baking. 

And,  anything  for  a  change,  sometimes  your  peo- 
ple take  streaks,  and  the  prevailing  fashion  is  fo 
rice  cakes. 


583. 


Rice  Batter  Cakes. 


One  heaping  cofifee  cup  of  raw  rice  makes  the  fol 
lowing  quantity: 

1  quart  of  cooked  rice. 
1^  pints  of  m'lk. 
1  pound,  or  quart,  of  flour. 
1  basting-spoonful  of  syrup. 
4  to  6  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

2  "  "  baking  powder. 

Mash  the  dry-cooked  rice  in  a  pan  with  a  little  of 
the  milk,  which  should  be  warm,  (ill  there  are  no 
lumps  left,  then  add  flour  and  milk  alternately, keep- 
ing it  firm  enough  to  work  smooth.  Add  the  other 
ingredients  and  beat  well.  Buttermilk  and  soda 
can  be  used  if  desired,  instead  of  powder  and  sweet 
nulk. 


583. 


White  Bread  Cakes- 


1  pound  of  bread  crumbs. 
12  ounces  of  flour. 

3  pints  of  water  or  milk.^ 

4  eggs.     Salt. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Remove  all  the  dark  crust  from  the  bread,  and 
then  soak  it  in  a  quart  of  the  water  several  hours, 
with  a  plate  to  press  it  under.  Mash  smooth  and 
add  the  flour,  the  pint  of  milk  or  waer,  eggs  and 
powder.  It  always  improves  batter  cakes  to  beat 
the  eggs  light,  before  mixing  them  in.  No  shorten- 
ing nor  syrup  needed  for  the  above. 

584.       d-raham  Bread  Cakes. 

Make  like  the  preceding,  with  part  graham  flour, 
and  the  crumbs  of  graham  bread 

Corn  cakes  will  be  found,  with  other  preparations 
of  corn  meal,  near  the  end  of  this  book. 

Speaking  of  the  way  the  English  mis-call  things, 
there  is  a  very  pretty  London  cook  book  malting  the 
remark  that  something  in  the  batter  cake  line  is 
baked  J|on  a  "girdle"  in  Scotland,  where  "gird- 
les" are  in  common  use,  but  as  they  are  itlle 
known  in  England  the  cake  must  be  baked  on  the 
stove  plate.  The  idea  of  calling  a  griddle  a  girdle  1 
The  griddle  is  in  common  use  in  New  Jersey,  but  is 
little  known  in  York  State.  And  if  no  griddles  in 
England  what  do  they  do  for  buckwheat  cakes  ? 
Dreadful  supposition — perhaps  they  have  none  1 
Time  for  somebody  to  start  American  kitchens  over 
there.  So  that  is  the  reason  why  Scotland  is  apos- 
trophized as 

"Land  o'  cakes  I  and  John  o'Groates," 
And  barley  bannocks;  and  England  is  not  honored 
wiih  any  such  title — how  can  she  be,  with  no  ''gird- 
les ',      What  is  home  without  a  "girdle  ?"       Her 
people  are  emigrating. 


585. 


Buck-wheat  Cakes. 


2  pounds  of  buckwheat  flour. 

2  quarts  of  water. 

1  cupful  of  yeast. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  large  basting-spoonful  of  syrup. 

1     "        "  "        of  melted  lard. 

Make  a  sponge  or  bat'er,  overnight,  with  the 
warm  water,  yeast  and  flour.  In  the  morning  add 
the  enriching  ingredients,  beat  up  well  and  bake 
thin  cakes  oq  a  griddle 

The  great  mgority  of  people  prefer  buckwheat 
cakes  with  about  a  fifth  part  corn  meal  mixed  with 
the  buckwheat.  And  twice  as  much  shortening  as 
above  will  please  them  better.      No  eggs   need  ever 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTBT  COOK. 


145 


be  used  with  buckwheat. 


After  the  first  mixing  with  yeast  some  of  the  bat- 
ter may  be  saved  and  used  instead  of  yeast  for  seve- 
ral succeeding  days.  A  teaspoon  ful  of  carbonate  of 
soda  may  then  be  needed  to  bg  mixed  in  the  batter 
n  the  morning,  but  cakes  made  that  way,  for  some 
reason,  are  more  palatable  than  with  sweet  yeast — 
care  being  taken  to  proportion  the  soda  to  the  de- 
gree of  slight  sourness. 

The  neatest  way  to  grease  the  cake  griddle  is  with 
a  piece  of  ham  rind  cut  oflflargefor  the  purpose,  and 
the  batter  should  be  poured  from  a  pitcher,  or  a  can 
having  a  coflFee  pot  spout. 

Where  the  smoke  and  smell  is  an  objection  the 
cakes  can  be  baked  just  as  well  without  grease,  not 
only  on  soapstone  griddles  but  on  iron  ones  as  well, 
if  they  be  rubbed  with  a  cloth  after  every  baking,  to 
keep  them  polished.  We  do  not  insist  on  the  adop 
tion  of  the  cleaner  plan,  because  cakes  half  fried 
are  eaten  tv  ith  a  better  relish  than  the  others — and 
hotel  cooks  are  not  expected  to  be  reformers. 

68T. 

Goffers  are  gaufres,  and  they  are  wafers,  or  thin 
cakes,  whence  waflles,  which  are,  or  used  to  be, 
called  also  soft  wafers.  But  thin  cakes  were  of  more 
than  one  sort.  Almond  gaufres  and  some  others 
are  a  kind  of  candy  cakes,  thin  and  crisp.  Flemish 
gaufres  are  our  waffles,  but  made  so  rich  that  they 
are  used  as  a  pastry  dish  for  dinner  with  jellies  and 
marmalades.  They  are  also  used  in  all  their  rich- 
ness for  breakfast,  where  expense  is  no  object,  but 
can  hardly  come  under  the  head  of  breakfast  bread 
in  ordinary.  The  next  receipt  is  the  happy  mean 
which  just  suits. 


588. 


Hotel  Waffles. 


3  pounds  of  flour. 

3  pints  of  milk  or  water. 

1  pint  of  yeast. 

6  ounces  of  sugar  or  syrup, 

8  ounces  of  melted  lard  or  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

10  or  12  eggs. 

If  for  supper  make  up  a  sponge  at  noon,  plain, 
with  flour,  water  and  yeast.  At  4  o'clock  add  the 
enriching  ingredients,  beat  up  well.andlet  rise  again 
till  6,  then  bake  in  waffle  irons. 

580.  

Waffles  for  Early  Breakfast. 

The  waffle  batter  of  the  foregoing  can  be  set  over 
night  with  cold  water,  but  it  saves  making  a  sepa- 
rate sponge  when  there  ^is  roll  dough  ready  in  the 
morning  to  take  2  pounds  of  the  dough  and  work  in 
the  butter  melted  and  a  little  of  the  milk  made 
warm.     Let  stand  a  few  minutes,  then  beat  smooth, 


adding  the  rest  of  the  articles,  and  in  an  hour  it  will 
be  ready  to  bake. 

690.  

Waffles  with  Self-Raising  Flour. 


Or  with  baking  powder,   or  buttermilk  and  soda 

2  pouods  of  flour. 

2  quarts  of  milk  (nearly.') 

4  whole  eggs. 
12  yolks. 

8  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

1  basting-spoonful  of  syrup. 

1  tea  spoonful  of  salt. 

Powder,  2  teaspoonfuls  if  common  flour  be  used. 

Mix  up  just  befcre  the  meal,  like  battercakes 
gradually,  with  the  milk  in  the  middle  of  the  flour 
to  avoid  lumps  The  eggs  should  be  thoroughly 
beaten. 

501.  

Flemish  Waffles,  or  Gaufres. 

Very  rich  and  delicate  when  directions  are  fol- 
lowed. This  is  only  half  the  quantity  of  hotel  waf- 
fle receipt  : 

1  pound  of  flour. 

2  cups  of  milk. 
1  cup  of  yfast. 

1  cup  of  thick  cream. 

8  ounces  of  butter,  me' ted. 

12  eggs.    Salt. 

1  ounce  or  spoonful  of  sugar. 

Set  a  sponge  over  night,  or  else  6  hours  before  the 
meal,  with  the  flour,  milk  and  yeast.  In  the  morn- 
ing separate  ihe  egg%  beat  the  yolks  light  and  add 
to  the  sponge,  together  with  the  sugar,  butter  and 
salt.  Beat  up  well,  let  rise  an  hour.  Then  whip 
the  cup  of  cream  and  stir  in,  and  lastly  the  whitte 
of  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth. 

593.  

French  Sweet  Waffles,  or  Gaufres. 


Made  without  yeast. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

14  eggs.     Salt. 

1  pint  of  milk. 

1  pint  of  cream. 

1  ounce  of  butter,  melted. 

^  cup  of  brandy. 

Separate  the  eggs.  Mix  flour,  sugar  and  salt  dry, 
in  a  pan.  Beat  yolks  and  milk  together,  pour  them 
in  the  middle  and  stir  to  a  bat'er,  smooth  and  with- 
out lumps.  Then  add  the  brandy  and  melted  but- 
ter. When  about  to  bake  whip  the  plot  of  cream  to 
a  froth  and  mix  it  in,  and  then  beat  the  whites  up 
firm  acd  add  likewise.  Bake  soon,  whi'e  the  mix- 
ture is  creamy  and  light.  >Vhea  the  batfer  must 
stand  and  wait  during  a  long  meal  a  little  baking 
powder  should  be  beaten  in  after  the  lightness  of 
the  cream  and   egg-whites    has    evapor  ted.     ThU 


140 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


makes  fine  pancakes  as  well. 


593.  

As  a  rule,  for  those  who  would  excel,  it  is  well  to 

remember  that  white  of  eggs  makes  waffles  and  pan- 
cakes tough  and  leathery  unless  added  in  the  form 
of  froth,  which  cirries  fine  air  bubbles  into  the  bat- 
ter. When  not  so  beaten  the  cakes  will  be  belter 
with  the  whiles  left  out  altogether  and  powder  used 
instead,  along  with  the  yolks  which  alone  give  the 
richness.  Just  such  fine  distinctions  as  these  well 
observed  make  the  diflFerence  betwixt  fine  cooks  and 
those  who  loaf,  out  of  employment,   on  street    cor- 


Baking  Waffles. 


594. 


Waffles,  it  must  be  owned,  are  the  terror  of  hotel 
cooks  in  ordinary  positions,  chiefly  because  people 
will  persist  in  laking  waffles  just  before  they  begin 
the  me«il,  waffles  for  the  meal,  and  more  waffles  just 
after  the  meal,  making  nine  hundred  orders  of 
waffles  for  three  hundred  persons.  But  as  waffles 
make  a  house  popular  and  are  a  means  of  distanc- 
ing competition  hotel  stewards  and  proprietors  often 
find  it  good  policy  to  look  upon  waffles  without 
prejudice,  and  provide  for  their  extensive  manufac 
ture  by  furnishing  the  proper  waffle  range,  thus 
gaving  a  hand  and  no  end  of  confusion,  waste, 
smoke,  inconvenience,  profanity  and  disappoint- 
ment. Of  course  this  applies  to  large  business.  A 
stove  and  the  common  waffle  irons  may  do  very  well 
for  fifty  persons — the  guage  of  these  receipts. 

Sweet  waffles  burn  so  easily  that  they  cannot  be 
baked  fast.  When  waffles  do  not  brown  fast  enough 
add  lugar  or  syrup.  The  only  remedy  for  waffles 
sticking  to  the  irons  is  to  keep  the  irons  in  constant 
use  with  scraping  and  rubbing  out  with  lard  while 
hot,  and  avoid  letting  them  burn  with  nothing  in 
them.  To  bake  waffles,  pour  in  one  side  a  spoonful 
of  melted  lard,  shut  up  and  turn  over  the  iron  two 
or  three  times  and  then  place  a  spoonful  of  batter 
in  each  compartment.  Shut  and  turn  over  to  the 
fire  frequently  till  both  sides  are  brown. 


595. 


Rioe  Waffles. 


1  quart  of  dry  cooked  rice, 

IJ  pints  of  milk. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

4  eegs.     Salt. 

10  yolks. 

1  basting-spoonful  of  butter. 

1  "        **        of  syrup. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Mash  the  rice  with  the  milk,    mix    up    like   rice 
batter  cakes. 


But  to  divert  attention   from  waffles   it  is   only 


necessary  to  announce  clam  pancakes.  And  surely 
they  are  a  Yankee  invention  and  of  local  fame  only 
at  that,  for  nowhere  in  print,  not  even  on  clam  can- 
labels  can  such  a  dish  apparently  be  found.  This 
is  the  route  by  which  clam  pancakes  have  reached 
these  columns:  A  number  of  pleasure-seeking  peo- 
ple occupying  the  broad  piazza  and  the  hundred  rus- 
tic chairs  at  a  hotel  in  the  shadow  of  Pikes  Peak, 
between  dancing  and  promenading  and  the  pause  in 
the  music  got  to  talking  about  the  sea-side  and  per 
consequence  about  clams.  There  was  one  among 
them  who  had  travelled  on  the  staff  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Alexis,  and  speaking  of  various  persons'  likes 
and  preferences  it  came  at  last  to  "0,  clams  plain  are 
all  very  well,  clam  fritters,  clam  stew,  clam  patties, 
but  leaving  out  chowder  there  is  nothing  made  of 
clams  equal  to  our  Yankee  clam  pancakes". 

"Why  cant  we  have  them  here?" 

"Why  of  course  we  can." 

It  is  (rue  Pikes  Peak  is  a  long  way  from  Glamdom 
but  canned  clams  do  very  well.  The  cook  had  to  be 
instructed,  and  after  that  still  ventured  to  ask 
"What  do  you  eat  with  them?*'  "Butter  and  syrup, 
just  like  any  the  other  batter  cakes," 


596. 


Olam  Panoakes. 


2  cans  of  clams  (2  lb.  size). 

1  pound  of  flour. 

1  pint  of  the  clam  liquor 

1  pint  of  milk.     Salt. 

10  yolks  of  eggs. 

4  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 

A  spoonful  of  syrup. 

1  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Cut  or  chop  the  clams  a  little  larger  than  beans. 
Mix  the  batter  as  for  other  batter  cakes,  add  the 
clams  at  last,  and  bake  on  a  griddle. 

There  is  a  biographical  dictionary  across  the 
street,  but  no  use  looking  in  that  for  Sally  Lunn. 
Who  was  she?  A  muffin  peddler?  Some  common 
body,  else  she  would  not  have  been  called  Sally. 
Perhaps  a  female  "good  fellow,"  who  invitf  d  folks 
to  take  a  cup  o'  tea.  Maybe  a  vi  lage  Hampden  or 
a  Howard,  or  a  female  Cromwell  guiltless  of  any- 
body's blood,  yet  a  great  backbiter.  But  "no  fur- 
ther seek  her  merits  to  disclose;"  she  might  turn 
out  to  have  been  like  a  certain  Aunt  Melissy  of 
Pennsylvania,  recently  sketched  in  a  magazine,  whe 
kept  boarders,  was  famous  for  her  savory  pot-pies 
and  doughnuts,  but  who  sold  whiskey  and  swore 
terrifically. 


59T.  Sally  Lunn  Tea  Cakes. 


2h  pounds  of  roll  dough. 
4  ounces  of  butter,  melted. 
3  ounces  of  sugar. 
2  whole  eggs  and  2  yolks 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


147 


Half  cupful  of  milk. 

8  ounces  of  flour. 

Take  (he  dough  from  the  rolls  at  2  o'clock,  and 
work  in  the  enriching  ingredients — the  milk  warm, 
and  sugar  and  but(er  melted  in  it  and  egga  beaten 
light — then  add  the  flour  and  beat  thoroughly. 

1 1  makes  dough  too  soft  to  handle,  and  like  frit- 
ters. 

Rise  3  hours.  Beat  again.  Divide  in  four  pie  pans. 
Rise  half  an  hour.  Bake  about  15  minutes.  They  brown 
very  easily;  are  not  so  good  when  allowed  to  become 
too  light ;  should  be  brushed  over  with  good  butter 
when  done.  Cut  in  pieces  like  pie,  but  carefully, 
with  up  and  down  strokes  of  a  sharp  kni'"e,  as  it 
spoils  the  cakes  to  crush  them  with  a  heavy  cut. 
Should  be  baked  at  intervals  as  the  meal  goes  on, 
and  not  svseated  in  the  pans. 


The  next,  and  last  in  this  division,  are  presented 
as  something  of  a  specialty  in  breakfast  breads 
They  have  been  very  frequently  complimented, 
(always  remembering  that  nothing  can  quite  sup- 
plant fine  French  split  rolls)  and  once  I  heard  thi-: 

•«We  have  penetrated  behind  the  scenes  to  see  if 
we  can  discover  what  pariicular  trick  it  is  that 
makes  these  muffins  so  delicate,  so  fine  and  elastic 

and  like  a  sponge.    We  have  boarded  in  the  G 

House  at  Louisville,  the  B House  at  Cincinnati, 

the  B House  at  Indianapolis,"   (these  remarks 

were  made  several  years  ago)  "but  never  met  with 
any  to  equal  these." 

"We  use  here  the  finest  flour,  perhaps  that's  the 
reason." 

"No,  it  isn't.  So  they  do  there,  and  have  the  best 
of  pastrycooks,  too." 

"Perhaps  you  come  to  breakfast  here  at  season- 
able hours  when  the  muffins  are  fresh  baked  and 
hot." 

"No,  it  is  in  the  muffins  themselves  and  the  way 
you  make  them." 

Perhaps  they  had  been  used  to  regard  hotel  muf- 
fins as  dry,  little,  unpalateable  things  that  would 
grease  the  fingers  to  touch.  The  receipt  for  the  sort 
which  they  esteemed  so  much  better  is  here  given, 
but  that  is  not  all.  As  was  remarked  about  milk  bread, 
butter  rusks,  sweet  rusks  and  waffles  the  thorough 
beating  properly  performed  with  a  cutting-under 
motion,  so  as  to  inclose  air  in  the  batter,  is  quite  es- 
sential to  insure  fine  quality. 


598. 


Hotel  Wheat  Muflans. 


2}  pounds  of  light  bread  dough. 
4  ounces  of  but'er,  melted. 
^  cupful  of  milk  or  cream. 
6  yolks  and  1  whole  egg. 
2  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar. 
4  ounces  of  flour. 
Little  salt. 


Take  the  dough  from  the  breakfast  bread  at  5  in 
the  morning  If  French  roll  dough  no  sugir  need 
be  added.  Work  (he  butter  and  milk  in,  arid  set  in 
a  warm  place  a  few  minutes.  Then  beat  in  the  eggs 
and  flour  and  keep  beating  a^inst  the  side  of  the 
pan  till  the  batter  is  very  elastic  and  smooth.  Rise 
awhile. 

The  tin  muffin  rings  ehould  be  two  inches  across 
and  one  inch  deep.  Set  them  on  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  half  fill  with  thebatfer — which  should  be  thin 
enough  to  settle  smooth,  and  thick  enough  not  to 
run — let  rise  half  an  hour,  bake  about  ten  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven.  Bake  small  lots  at  intervals  during 
the  breakfast. 

599.  MuflBlns  from  the  Beginningf. 


When  no  other  kind  is  made  and  there  is  no 
dough  ready. 

1^  pounds  of  flour, 

1  pint  of  "liquor" — milk  and  yeast  mixed. 

Make  a  soft  dough  of  the  above  over  night  and 
add  the  ingredients  of  the  preceding  receipt  except 
the  flour.     Beat  up  well  in  the  morning. 

Sugar  in  small  quantities  makes  bread  crust 
paper-like,  ( hin  and  soft.  Too  much  makes  bread 
puddingy.  Yolk  of  eggs  counteracts  sugar,  and 
dries  the  bread  out,  also  makes  the  crust  crisp  and 
brittle.  White  of  egg  makes  thick,  tough  crust 
like  leather  that  has  been  wet  and  dried.  Shorten- 
ing makes  little  difference  besides  lessening  the 
stringiness  of  well-made  bread.  Sweet  rusks  and 
cakes  are  slow  to  rise  and  slow  to  bake.  Such  bread 
as  muffins  and  Sally  Lunn  usually  rises  too  fast  and 
too  much. 


600.  

About  Baking   Powder,  and  How  Not 

to  Use  It. 


Dost  thou  think,  because  thou  art  virtuous,  there 
shall  be  no  more  cakes  and  ale  ? — Twelfth  Night. 

After  all  that  has  been  shown  of  the  manner  of 
making  the  best  of  bread  without  baking  powder,  it 
must  be  plain  to  see  that  the  way  to  avoid  the  inju- 
ries arising  from  baking  powder  adulteration  is  to 
use  good  yeast  instead.  The  use  of  powder  does  not 
need  tobeetiCouraged,  it,  like  many  other  non-es- 
sential articles,  is  good  in  its  place,  but  it  is  the 
lazy  cook's  resort;  it  tends  to  inferiority  in  cooking; 
it  causes  an  expenditure  of  money  for  that  which  is 
not  nutriment  but  which  at  its  ver7  best  is  but  empty 
air  and  at  its  worst  carries  after  the  air  a  residue  of 
poison.  And  yet  baking  powder  is  good  to  a  certain 
degree.  But  how  few  can  make  bakiog  powder 
bread  anything  but  a  sorry  substitute  for  bread  ? 
In  the  mining  and  lumbering  regions  and  such  haif- 
civilized  places  where  men  in  haste  and  carelessness 
mix  up  a  sort  of  biscuit,  any  way  for  the  easiest,  bak- 


:48 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


ing  powder  is  used  in  such  vast  quantities  as  people 
who  liye  where  cooking  is  done  might  find  impossi 
ble  to  believe.  That  its  manufacture  must  be 
ijery  profitable  is  shown  in  many  ways;  by  the  im- 
mense number  of  diflferent  brands,  the  number  of 
new  and  expensive  ways  of  putting  it  up  in  pack- 
ages,  and  of  employing  agents,  traveling  equipments 
and  printing  and  advertising,  equaling  the  sewicg 
machine  business  of  patent  times,  or  patent  medicine 
business  of  all  times,  and  this  without  any  monopoly 
for  any  one.  Besides  the  immense  factories  of  the 
large  cities  most  of  the  small  cities  and  outfitting 
points  of  the  west  have  firms  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture. Kansas  City  has  one,  Denver  has  two,  and 
of  these  one  alone  advertises  that  it  ships  from  three 
to  four  tons  of  powder  per  month  to  the  mountain 
towns.  At  the  same  time  car  loads  are  arriving  of 
perhaps  forty  different  brands  from  the  east. 


Baking  powder  was  first  extensively  advertised 
for  sale  and  generally  introduced  about  the  years 
1845  to  1860.  Flaming  posters  appeared  in  all  the 
towns  calling  it  German  yeast,  or  baking  powder, 
claiming  that  a  yield  of  about  twenty  pounds  more 
bread  from  a  barrel  of  flour  could  be  had  by  its  use 
than  by  yeast  raising,  on  the  ground  that  ordinary 
yeast  changes  a  portion  of  the  flour  into  air  in  fer- 
mentation, and  claiming  for  powder  the  effect  of 
eggs,  and  another  saving.  Chemists  certificates 
were  appended  to  say  that  the  powder  when  evapo- 
rated in  the  bread  left  only  an  extremely  small  re- 
mainder, and  that  was  but  chloride  of  sodium,  or 
common  salt,  and  no  disadvantage. 


Supposing  the  last  to  be  true,  it  is  on  the  pre- 
sumption that  either  cream  of  tartar  or  tortaric  acid 
are  used  in  making  the  powder,  and  that  they  are  so 
perfectly  proportioned  as  to  exactly  counteract  each 
other  and  banish  each  other  in  the  form  of  air,  frum 
the  bread.  Otherwise  a  residue  of  one  or  other 
must  remain,  and  other  acids  and  alkalis  may  be 
used  having  the  same  or  stronger  eff"ects  but  leaving 
still  more  harmful  remiinders.  Both  before  and 
after  the  introduction  of  commercial  baking  powders 
pastry  cooks  used  to  make  their  own.  But  cream 
of  tartar  was  found  most  unreliable  because  of  lack 
of  uniformity  in  its  adulteration.  Some  samples 
would  contain  so  much  starch  or  worse  matters  that 
four  teaspoonfuls  were  required  to  counteract  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  With  tartaric  acid  ready  pow- 
dered the  same  difficulty  was  experienced.  Tartaric 
acid  in  crystals,  powdered  in  a  mortar  at  home  as 
wanted,  was  the  only  reliable  recourse  to  avoid  hav- 
ing biscuit  spoiled  either  one  way  or  the  other.  The 
proportions  are  one  teaspoonful  of  powdered  tartaric 
acid  to  two  of  carbonate  of  soda — the  reverse  of 
cream  of  tartar  proportioned.  The  Scientific  Ameri- 
can has  published  a  number  of  different  formulas  for 
making  baking  powders.     Many  of  the  manufactur- 


ers accuse  others  of  employing  cheap  but  injurious 
substitutes  f  r  soda  and  acid,  and  here  is  a  hint  of 
another  kind  of  deterioration. 

A  man  came  around  a  new  western  town  offering 
to  sell  a  receipt  for  making  baking  powder  which 
was  to  effect  a  great  saving  to  all  consumers.  The 
price  asked  for  the  precious  bit  of  information  was 
one  dollar.  When  my  turn  came  to  be  canvassed  I 
told  him  that  knowing  of  quite  a  number  of  baking 
powder  mixtures  already  I  had  just  fifty  cents  worth 
of  curiostiy  left  to  know  what  he  had  to  impart.  So 
for  that  sum  1  obtained  the  following  : 


EUREKA    BAKING  POWDEE. 


Bi-carbonate  of  soda,  16  ounces;  tartaric  acid,  12 
ounces;  cream  of  tartar,  2  ounces;  fine  flour  3 
pounds. 

There  is  two  pounds  of  real  baking  powder  and 
flour  enough  added  to  make  five  pounds  weight. 
Starch  has  more  the  appearance  of  real  baking 
powder  than  flour.  Does  not  this  go  far  to  explain 
the  variations  in  strength  and  the  inducements  to 
push  the  sale  of  cheap  powders?  Cost  price  of 
flour,  4  cents;  starch,  10  cents;  selling  price  of  pow- 
der the  difference. 

OOl.  

It  being  our  sole  business  to  teach  how  to  make 
good  bread  and  to  inquire  into  the  nature  of  the  ob- 
stacles that  throw  us,  we  have  no  remedies  to  offer 
against  these  adulterations  other  than  the  first  men- 
tioned, viz:  to  use  little  or  none  at  all,  and  employ 
good  yeast  instead.  In  the  palmy  days  of  French 
cookery,  when  culiLary  excellence  was  carried,  un- 
der the  auspices  of  fashion,  to  an  extreme  never  sur- 
passed since,  baking  powder  was  unknown,  and  the 
bakers'  more  objectionable  carbonate  of  ammonia 
was  unthought  of.  The  finest  cakes  were  made 
light  either  with  brewer's  yeast,  like  those  at  th^ 
end  of  this  book;  with  air  beaten  ia  mechanically, 
like  our  common  sponge  cakes;  or  with  the  fine  parti- 
cles of  cold  butter  as  in  pound  cake — the  same  agent 
that  imparts  such  extreme  lightness  to  puff- paste. 
Waffles  and  pan  cakes  at  the  same  time  were  made 
of  extreme  delicacy  by  means  of  white  of  eggs  whip- 
ped to  a  froth,  being  really  a  mass  of  air  bubbles, 
fine  as  snow,  incorporated  in  the  mixture,  there  to 
expand  in  the  heat  of  baking  and  raise  the  whole. 

Baking  powder  is  the  cook's  labor-saving  friend, 
but  if  the  friend  be  treacherous  ar.d  unreliable  shall 
we  not  accept  his  good  offices  with  caution  ?  All  we 
can  gain  from  him  ia  gas  to  expand  into  big  ho'es  in 
the  bread  in  the  oven,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  to 
a  pint  of  £0ur  buttermilk  yields  the  same.  Ia  "old 
fashioned"  gingerbread  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  added 
to  the  raw  molasses  makes  a  gassy  foam  just  the 
and,  independent  of  all  the  half  dosen  ways 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


149 


already  fihown  of  introducing  air  for  lightnesa  into 
food  compounds,  there  is  the  purely  mechanical 
utilization  of  atmospheric  air  of  the  following 
method. 


60S,      Virginia  Beaten  Biscuit. 


Old-Fashioned  "Way. 


There  has  to  be  a  maul,  or  Indian  club  over  2 
feet  long,  and  a  stout  table,  for  the  beating.  The 
biscuit  will  not  be  right  unless  you  have  the  maul 
made  of  hard  maple,  square-shaped  at  the  heavy 
end,  but  waving,  so  as  to  make  uneven  hollows  in 
the  dough  and  a  hole  in  the  handle  for  a  string  to 
hang  it  up  by. 

3  pounds  of  flour. 

1  large  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

4  ounces  of  butter  or  lard. 
8  cups  of  milk  or  water. 

Have  the  milk  tepid,  mix  the  melted  butter  and 
ealt  wiih  it,  and  wet  up  the  flour — nearly  all — into 
8  .ft  duugh.  Knead  it  to  smoothness  on  the  table, 
and  then  beat  it  out  to  a  sheet  with  the  maul,  fold 
it  over  on  itself  and  beat  out  again. 

There  is  no  established  limit  to  the  times  the 
dough  may  b9  beaten  out,  but  after  a  few  times  it 
begins  to  break  instead  of  spread.  This  injures  it, 
and  an  interval  should  be  allowed  for  the  dough  to 
lose  its  toughness.  The  air  in  the  hollows  beaten 
into  the  dough  makes  it  very  light,  and  white  and 
flaky 


Modern  innovators  on  the  preceding  practice  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda  sifted  into  the  fl  jur  and  mix 
up  with  buttermilk,  beating  besides  in  the  regular 
manner. 


There  are  few  things  more  generally  aceptable 
in  some  localities  than  beaten  biscuit  rolled  out  very 
thin  and  fried. 


So  that  if  baking  powder  were  banished  from  the 
culinary  world  for  the  sins  of  its  makers  there 
would  still  be  cakes  and  ale  as  of  old.  If  we  may 
believe  the  advertisements  there  is  one  brand  of 
powder  that  is  pure  and  honest,  but  is  not  that  re- 
ducing our  means  of  safety  to  a  very  slender  plank? 
For  if  by  any  accident  a  little  of  some  other  powder 
should  get  mixed  wifh  that  one  there  would  be  a 
terrible  state  of  affairs ! 


Baking  Po-wder  Bread. 


He  found  her  presiding  over  the  tea  and  coflFee, 
the  table  loaded  with  warm  bread,  both  of  flour, 
oatmeal,  and  barley-meal,  in  the  shape  of  loaves, 
cakes,  Mscuits,  and  other  varieties,  together  with 
eggs,  reindeer  ham,  mutton  and  beef  ditto,  smoked 
salmon,  marmalade,  and  all  other  delicacies  which 


induced  even  Johnson  himself  to  extol  the  luxury  of 
a  Scotch  breakfast  above  that  of  all  other  countries. 
A  mess  of  oatmeal  porridge,  flanked  by  a  silver  jug, 
which  held  an  equal  mixture  of  cream  and  butter- 
milk, was  placed  for  the  Baron's  share  of  this  re- 
past.—  Waverly — Chap.  XII, 

I  could  write  a  better  book  of  cookery  than  has 
ever  yet  been  written  ;  it  should  be  a  book  on  philo- 
sophical principles. — Dr.  Johnson. 


603.      Baking  Powder  Biscuit. 

2  pounds  or  quarts  of  flour. 

4  ounces  of  melted  lard  or  butter. 

4  teasroonfuls  of  powder. 

1        «        of  salt. 

1^  pints  of  tepid  water  or  milk. 

Mix  the  powder  in  the  flour  dry.  Place  the  melt- 
ed lard  in  a  hollow  in  the  middle,  the  salt  and  water 
or  milk  with  that,  and  stir  around,  drawing  the  flour 
in  gradually  so  as  to  make  a  smoo'h,  soft  d -ugh. 
Turn  out  on  the  floured  table.  Press  the  dough 
out  flat  with  the  hands,  fold  it  over  again  and  eg  in 
and  press  out  till  it  is  compact,  even,  and  smooth. 
Let  stand  5  minutes.  Roll  out  and  cut  into  biscuits. 
Bake  immediately. 


Of  all  the  atrocious  frauds  in  the  way  of  bread 
perhaps  the  worst  is  the  baking-powder  biscuit  of 
unskillful  cooks,  sometimes  found  iu  boarding  hous- 
es and  low-priced  restaurants.  The  compulsory 
spoiling  of  biscuit  through  excessive  economy  of  in- 
gredients may  be  pardonable  in  the  cooks,  but  the 
atrocity  of  spoiling  them  with  too  much  richness 
and  wrong  way  of  working,  never.  Such  biscuit 
are  yellow,  dirty  on  the  bottom,  greasy  to  the  touch; 
they  have  rough  sides,  no  edges,  for  they  rise  tall 
and  narrowing  towards  the  top  ;  they  are  wrinkled 
and  freckled  and  ugly ;  they  will  not  part  into  white 
and  eatable  flakes  or  slices,  but  tumble  in  brittle 
crumbs  from  the  fingers,  and  eat  like  smoked  saw- 
dust. Strange,  that  the  same  materials  should  make 
things  so  diflferent  as  these  and  good  biscuit. 


Biscuit  dough  should  be  made  up  soft.  The  short- 
ening should  be  melted  and  added  to  the  fluid  milk- 
warm,  to  insure  thorough  incorporation. 

The  private  house  way  of  kneading  the  dough  up 
into  dumpling  shape,  perpetually  breaking  the 
layers  and  making  the  parted  edges  take  up  too 
much  flour,  is  the  wrong  way  that  ruins  biscuit. 
The  right  way  is  given  in  the  receipt. 


604.       Baking  Powder  Bread. 


Because  we  in  hotels  are  accustomed  to  make 
every  article  as  rich  as  is  allowed  it  should  not  be 
forgotten  that  shortening  is  byno  means  essential  to 
make  good  biscuit,  and  the  preceding  receipt  f-^r 
biscuit  is  just  right  for  loaves   of  baking    powder 


150 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


bread  if  the  shortening  be  left  out. 
605.  — — 

Imitation  French  Rolls,  with  Baking 

Powder. 


"Vienna  Rolls." 

2  pouQds  or  quarts  of  flour. 

4  heaping  teaspooofuls  of  powder. 

2        *'  "        of  sugar. 

1  "  ♦«        of  salt. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  or  lard,  melted. 

2  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  large  pint  of  milk. 

See  directions  for  biscuit  and  make  this  dough 
flame  way.  After  it  has  stood  a  few  minutes  to  lose 
its  springiness  make  into  split  rolls.  Cutting  out  is 
the  qu'ckest,  and  best  for  baking  powder  dough. 
See  directions  for  French  rolls.  Brush  over  with 
melted  lard  in  the  pans.  Let  stand  20  minutes  to 
rise,  if  convenient.     Bake  as  usual. 


When  a  seidlitz,  or  any  eflfervescent  powder  is 
dropped  into  a  glass  of  water  the  gas  produced  rush- 
es to  the  top  and  immediately  escapes,  but  if  a  por- 
tion of  a  raw  egg  be  mixed  in  the  water  first,  or 
some  dissolved  gum  arable,  it  catches  and  holds  the 
gas  on  top  in  the  form  of  froth,  as  in  soda  syrups. 
The  same  effect  in  some  degree  is  observable  when 
an  egg  is  mixed  in  baking-powder  bread.  A  film  is 
formed  that  hold^  the  air,  the  dough  may  be  allow- 
ed a  few  minutes  to  become  lighter,  and  the  rolls 
are  more  spongy  than  if  made  without. 

Repetition,  if  odious  to  the  thorough  reader,  is 
unavoidable  in  a  cook  book,  where  people  seeking 
but  one  article  will  overlook  all  else. 


GOO.    ow     Flake  Rolls  or  Biscuit. 


Another  way  of  using  powder  by  working  it  into 
the  dough.     Worth  practicing.     Very  white. 
2  pounds  or  quarts  of  flour. 
4  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  powder. 

1  do  do  of  salt. 

2  basting-spoonfuls  of  melted  lard. 
1  large  pint  of  milk. 

Mix  up  like  biscuit  but  only  put  in  a  fourth  part 
of  the  powder.  Mix  the  rest  with  a  handful  of 
flour  and  sprinkle  it  over  the  dough  every  time  that 
it  is  pressed  out  to  a  sheet.  Knead  long  and  well. 
Let  stand  awhile.     Gut  out  thin.     They  rise. 

OOT.     Buttermilk  Sweet  Rolls. 


Cheap  and  off-hand.     Often  made  at  stage  stations 
&nd  village  inns. 
2  pounds  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  carbonate  of  soda. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 
4  ounces  of  sugar.     Salt, 
2  eggs  and  2  yolks  more. 
1  large  pint  of  buttermilk. 


Sift  the  soda  in  the  flour.  Mix  all  the  other  arti* 
cles  with  the  buttermilk.  Make  up  like  biscuit  or 
Vienna  rolls.     Glaze  or  sugar  over  when  baked. 


The  yellow  specks  in  the  crust  for  which  the  soda 
is  blamed  are  oftener  due  to  the  particles  of  curd  of 
sour  milk,  which  brown  quickly  in  the  oven.  If 
you  use  "clabber,"  pass  it  through  a  seive  first. 

Corn  Bread,  Corn  Mufllns,  Batter  Cakes, 
Etc.,   Etc 

The  perfect  receipts  for  all  needful  preparations 
of  corn  meal  appeared  in  these  columns  some  time 
ago,  and  can  be  found  in  their  place  among  these 
"breads"  by  means  of  the  index. 


008.  Some  Yeast-Raised  Oakes. 


There  was  a  table  covered  with  cakes  made  in  a 
variety  of  emblematical  shapes        *        *        * 
representations  of  crosses,  fonts,  books,    and   one 
huge  cake  in  the  centre  in  the  form  of  a  bishop's 
mitre. — Dumas, 


Three  pounds  of  sugar;  five  pounds  of  rice;  rice  T 
What  will  this  sister  of  mine  do  with  rice?  But  my 
father  hath  made  her  the  mistress  of  the  feast  and 
she  lays  it  on!  I  must  have  saffron  to  color  the 
warden  pies,  (pear  pies),  mace,  dates;  nutmegs  sev- 
en, a  race  or  two  of  ginger,  (but  that  I  may  beg); 
four  pounds  of  prunes,  and  as  many  raisins  of  the 
sun. — Shakspeare's  Winier^s  Tale. 

In  bluff  King  Henry  VHP 8  days  *        * 

the  seasoning  of  dishes  was  strong  and  pungent; 
taffron  being  a  predominating  ingredient  in  them. — 
Mary  Jewry. 

Large  dishes  of  rice,  boiled  to  perfection,  fowls, 
and  meat  cooked  in  every  manner  possible,  all  dish- 
es highly  colored  with  saffron^  and  very  much  fla- 
vored with  mint- — A  Persian  Garden  Party,    1879. 


While  endeavoring  to  observe  and  respect  the  dis- 
tinction between  solid  instruction  and  mere  opinion 
we  must  say  that  the  practice  of  yeast-raised  cakes 
ought  to  be  far  more  general  among  American  pas- 
trycooks and  bakers  than  it  is.  The  dreary  repeti- 
tion of  middling  pound  cake  and  poor  sponge  cake, 
with  a  sorry  variation  or  two,  might  with  advantage 
be  broken  up  by  the  introduction  of  some  of  the  sorts 
which  great  cooks  of  old  used  to  set  before  the  king. 
That  was  before  cooks  began  to  begrudge  a  little 
work  in  behalf  of  excellence. 

In  the  European  countries  where  they  cannot  af- 
ford to  be  so  extravagant  as  we  are,  when  there  is 
to  be  a  festival,  the  first  thing  the  managers  do  is, 
go  to  the  baker,  either  buy  enough  light  dough,  and 
some  notable  housekeeper  makes  it  into  cheap  but 
good  cake  for  the  multitude,  or  else  the  baker  him- 
self gets  the  contract.  In  this  way  plum  cake  itself 
becomes  a  cheap  treat,  while  still  richer  and  far 
more  delicate  varieties  are  made  for  the  wealthy  by 
the  same  general  method  with  difference  of  de- 
gree. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


161 


It  is  conceded  that  some  practice  is  necessary  to 
make  these  cakes  perfectly,  for  the  exact  time  when 
they  are  ready  for  the  oven  can  only  be  known  by 
observation.  But  as  far  as  can  be,  the  directions  here 
following  will  be  found  eflfectual,  and  make  the  prac- 
tice easy. 


600. 


Scotch  Seed  Cake. 


Takes  five  hours  time  to  make,  raise,  and  bake, 
using  dough  to  begin  with, 

2  pounds  of  light-bread  dough. 
12  ounces  of  sugar. 
12  ounces  of  butter. 

4  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  of  carraway  seeds. 
8  ounces  of  flour. 

Weigh  out  the  dough  at  7  in  the  morning.  Set  it 
with  the  butter  and  sugar  in  a  warm  place.  At 
about  9  work  all  together  and  beat  in  the  eggs  one 
at  a  time,  and  add  the  carraway.  Give  it  another 
half  hour  to  stand  and  become  smooth,  then  add 
the  flour  and  give  the  whole  ten  minutes  beating.  It 
makes  a  stiff  batter — not  dough. 

Put  it  in  two  buttered  cake  moulds.  Rise  about 
an  hour.  It  should  not  be  too  light,  bake  as  you 
would  bread,  in  a  slack  oven,  less  than  an  hour. 

610.  

Cheapest  Cake  Without  Eggs. 

2  pounds  of  light-bread  dough. 
8  ounces  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

1  teaspoonful  of  carraway  seeds. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

The  difference  between  this  and  the  preceding 
kind  is  that  this  makes  a  soft  dough,  to  be  handled 
and  kneaded  like  bread,  then  baked  iu  moulds. 
Brush  over  with  a  little  melted  lard  when  setting  to 
rise. 

These  raised  cakes  are  like  fresh  bread,  cannot 
be  sliced  till  a  day  or  two  old,  without  waste. 

Once  upon  a  time,  so  they  say,  an  economical  man 
fitted  out  his  cow  with  a  pair  of  green  glass  specta 
cles,  and  thus  induced  her  to  eat  shavings,  which 
looked  like  hay. 

In  the  warm,  moist  gardens  of  the  south  of  Eng- 
land the  camomile  flowers  make  pretty  borders,  and 
saffron  grows  like  a  weed.  An  infusion  of  saffron 
gives  the  color  of  eggs  to  cake,  and  the  people  who 
are  glad  there  to  sell  their  new-laid  eggs  are  very 
well  content  with  the  substitute. 

Perhaps  saffron  also  gives  something  of  the  taste 
of  eggs.    Italian  vermicelli  is  colored  with  it. 

611.      Cornish  Saffron  Cake. 

The  miner's  dinner-pail  cake  in  the  region  of 
Lake  Superior  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  well  as 
Penzance  and  Lands  End. 

2  pounds  of  light  dough. 


6  ounces  of  sugar. 
8  ounces  of  butter  or  poultry  fat. 
8  ounces  of  dried  cherries,  or  raisins. 
Half  cup  of  strong  saffron  tea. 
1  pound  of  flour. 

Mix  up  like  Scotch  seed  cal^e,  manage  and  bake 
same  as  bread.     One  or  two  eggs  improves  the  cake. 


61;^. 


Election  Cake. 


Make  the  Scotch  seed  cake  but  with  1  pound  of 
seeded  or  seedless  raisins  and  half  cupful  of  brandy 
and  flavorings,  and  omit  the  carraway  seeds. 


613.      Polish  Cake.    Baba. 

Requires  5  hours  time  to  make,  raise  and  bake. 

1  pound  of  good,  light  roll  dough. 

IJ  pounds  of  butter. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 
14  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

8  ounces  of  raisins. 

6  ounces  of  currants. 

4  ounces  of  citron. 

Half  cup  of  brandy. 

Lemon  and  nutmeg  extracts. 

These  cakes  made  with  dough  are  all  started  alike. 
Warm  the  dough,  butter  and  sugar  together,  mix 
and  then  set  away  half  an  hour,  when  the  ingredi- 
ents can  be  mixed  better;  then  beat  iu  the  eggs  two 
at  a  time  and  handfuls  of  flour  alternately.  Beat 
well;  rise  2  hours.  Beat  again,  add  the  flavorings, 
brandy  and  fruit.  Line  the  cake  moulds  with  but- 
tered paper.  Let  the  batter  rise  in  the  moulds 
about  2  hours,  then  bake,  about  an  hour. 


614. 


Savarin   Cake. 


The  preceding  without  the  fruit.  Used  hot  as  a 
cake  pudding  with  liqueur  sauce.  With  dough  from 
the  breakfast  rolls  at  7  o'clock  it  can  be  made  ready 
for  midday  dinner, 

A  French  authority  says  Kauglauff  or  Kugeloff,  is 
a  general  name  in  German  for  all  cakes  made  with 
yeast.  Perhaps  the  common  term  "coffee  cake"  is 
but  the  attempt  of  English  speaking  tongues  at 
"Kauglauff."  The  cheapest  and  commonest  coffee 
cake  has  been  described  as  a  warm  bread  several 
columns  back.  We  now  give  two  varieties  that  are 
really  rich  cakes  by  the  same  name. 

615.        Q-erman  Kauglauff. 


1  pound  of  light  dough. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

1  pound  of  butter. 

6  ounces  of  sugar. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

8  whole  egg3  and  8  yolks. 

Half  cup  of  milk  or  cream. 


162 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


Extract  of  lemon. 

Ground  cinnamon. 

Mix  up  like  Polish  cake,  the  cream  and  currants 
las',  and  rise  in  the  moulds. 

When  d  >ne  pass  a  brush  dipped  in  sugar  and  milk 
over  the  cakes  and  dredge  them  with  the  ground 
cinnamon  mixed  with  sugar.     Use  to  slice  cold. 


616.    Vienna  Cake  or  Kauglauff. 


1  pound  of  light  dough, 
22  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 
15  eggs. 
20  ounces  of  flour. 

Half  pint  of  cream. 

Half  cup  of  brandy. 

1  pound  of  almonds. 

Mix  up  and  beat  and  raise  according  to  preceding 
directions.  Blanch  and  split  the  almonds  and  mix 
half  cf  them  in  the  cake;  use  the  remainder  to 
stick  all  over  the  moulds  with  butter  before  the 
dough  is  put  in.  These  mixtures  all  make  the 
dough  like  fritter  batter,  just  thick  enough  for  al- 
mond«,  fruit,  etc.,  not  to  sink, 

Shrei  citron  or  candied  orange  peel,  pistachio 
nuts  and  the  like  are  added  at  option.  Sometimes 
the  cakes  are  served  hot,  separated  into  layers  with 
a  sharp  knife,  and  jelly  spread  between. 

617.     Yeast-Raised  Plum  Cake. 


The  slowest  to  rise.  Use  the  liveliest  dough,  and 
in  win'er  it  had  better  be  saved  overnight  and 
m'xed  up  with  the  main  part  of  the  ingredients; 
add  the  fruit  next  morning,  and  bake  after  din- 
ner. 

2  p  *undg  of  light  bread  dough. 

1  pound  of  black  molasses  and  sugar,  mixed. 

1  pound  of  butter, 

6  eggs. 
12  ouncps  of  flour. 

1  ounce  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

1 J  pounds  of  sredless  raisins. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

8  ounces  of  citron. 

Brandy,  and  lemon  extract. 

V-  arm  the  dough  and  all  the  ingredients  slightly. 
Mix  well,  except  the  fruit  and  brandy.  Beat  the 
batter,  aud  set  to  rise  in  the  mixing  pan  about  3 
hours.  Beat  again  and  add  the  fruit,  previously 
floureJ.  Line  the  moulds  ^ith  buttered  paper, 
ha'f  fill  and  set  to  rise  again  about  2  hours.  Bake 
from  one  hour  to  two,  according  to  size.  Large 
cakes  should  have  a  coating  of  paper  tied  outside 
the  moulds  to  protect  the  crust  during  the  two 
hours  baking. 

These  cakes  should  not  be  turned  out  of  the 
moulds  till  at  least  one  day  old. 


Hotel  pastry  cooVs  wko  think  yeast-raised  cakes 
too  teuious,  should  nevertheless  remember  that  ia 
some  peaces  no  others  are  believed  in,  or  a-lowed  to 
be  made,  and  these  are  simple  enough  after  a  few 
trials  to  learn  the  routine. 


To  clean  seedless  raisins,  rub  the  fine  stems  off" 
them  with  the  hands  and  some  flour  mixed  in,  then 
stir  around  in  a  colander  till  the  siftings  all  go 
through  and  leave  the  raisins  clean. 


618. 


Toast  and  Toasters. 


Excuse  me,  Tom,  but  if  I  have   a  weakness  it  is 
for  Yarmouth  bloaters,   anchovy  toast,    milk,  choco- 
late, marmalade,  h^t  rolls,  and  reindeer  tongue      * 
*        *. — Leo^  s  Tom  Burke* 


I  have  remarked  before  that  not  one  person  in  a 
thousand  knows  how  to  make  good  toast.  The  sim- 
plest  dishes  seem  to  be  the  ones  oftenest  spoiled. 
If,  as  is  generally  done,  a  thick  slice  of  bread  is 
hurriedly  exposed  to  a  hot  fire,  and  the  exterior  of 
the  bread  is  toasted  nearly  black,  *  *  etc. 
Henderson. 


There,  you  see,  boys  and  girls,  you  had  better 
make  that  toast  right  and  not  jam  it  down  on  the  hot 
range  top  with  gnashing  of  teeth  bo  savagely.  Not 
one  in  a  thousand  of  you  but  knows  how  to  make 
toast  beautifully,but  you  have  an  invincible  aversion 
to  it;  you  think  a  person  who  will  order  toast  a 
monster,  that  to  be  hated  needs  but  to  be  seen;  you 
want  to  know  why  such  people  can't  eat  all  these 
nice  hot  breads  and  batter  cakes,  and  you  call 
them  pet  names  which  it  will  never  do  to  put  in 
print. 

Of  course  you  think  it  the  cook's  business  to  make 
toast,  but  that  depends  on  circumstances,  for  toast 
must  be  n^ade  just  as  it  is  ordered,  and  one  of  the 
cooks  is  busy  broiling  beefsteak  and  h«im  to  order 
and  another  is  busy  dishing  up  side  dishes  and  fry- 
ing fresh  potatoes.  Baking  cakes  and  waffles  and 
dishing  up  breads  keeps  another  agoing,  eo  s  me- 
body  besides  must  make  the  toast.  The  vegetable 
cook  might  be  hired  with  the  understanding  that 
toast  making  was  one  of  the  duties  to  be  performed, 
and  would  do  well  at  supper,  but  the  two  or  three 
hours  of  breakfast  is  the  vegetable  cook's  busiest 
time.  It  would  not  be  so  hard  to  make  good  toast 
if  there  was  a  place  provided  for  it  when  the  hotel 
kitchen  is  furnished  and  fitted  up,  but  whoever  in 
such  a  case  ever  thinks  of  that  ?  Put  it  upon  the 
cook  and  he  must  almost  perforce  bake  the  toast  by 
panfuls  in  the  oven,  but  no  persons,  if  they  can  help 
themselves,  will  eat  that  except  as  milk  toast.  The 
broiler  is  full  and  has  no  room  but  for  mea's  There 
is  only  the  range  top  left  available  and  that  must  be 
kept  so  hot  that  there  is  little  chance  of  being  able 
to  do  good  baking  inside  at  the  same  time. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


153 


charcoal  broiler  aside  from  the  meat  work  would  be 
placed  in  every  hotel  kitchen  at  the  first,  when 
such  expenses  are  not  so  reluctantly  incurred  as  af- 
ter some  time  of  scrambling  along  without. 

In  hotels  where  the  tcast  difficulty  is  well  over- 
come there  is  ei  her  an  extra  hand  from  some  other 
department  appointed  for  the  duty,  and  the  t  ast 
range  or  broiler  k)  work  on,  or  else,  in  smaller 
houses  where  the  dining  room  work  is  not  rushing, 
the  waiters  themselves,  preparing  a  little  toast  just 
before  he  doors  are  opened  for  a  start,  are  able  to 
make  it  as  wanted,  and  to  suit  the  special  orders. 

The  best  way  where  there  is  no  special  broiler,  is 
to  provide  half  a  dozen  wire  hinged  oyster  broilers 
or  toasters  and  lay  them  with  the  bread  in  them  on 
top  of  the  hot  range. 


OlO. 


Ooncluding  Hints. 


Whatsoever  thy  hand  fiudeth  to  do,  do  it  with  all 
thy  might. — Ancient  Book. 

Things  done  by  halves  are  never  done  right. — 
Modern  Paraphrase, 

Considering  how  extensive  is  the  domain  of  hotel 
cookery  there  is  no  likelihood  that  we  shall  ever  re- 
cur to  the  items  of  bread  and  rolls  again,  and  a  few 
omissions  in  the  foregoing  matters  must  be  made 
good  here. 

The  hardest  thing  to  teach  the  tyro  in  mixing  bread 
is  to  make  the  small  quantity  of  dough  soft  enough 
in  warm  weather.  Fortunately,  with  large  masses  the 
labor  with  s  iff  dough  is  so  severe  that  few  people 
err  that  way,  but  a  li'tle  in  active  summer  weather 
f  rmentation  easily  takes  up  too  much  flour  and  be- 
comes rough  and  rotten,  and  all  the  instructions  in 
the  wor  d  will  not  help  the  "pastry"  who  does  not 
know  enough  to  temper  the  dough  a.'cording  to  the 
weather.  In  winter  when  all  the  materials  and  tools 
are  cold  the  stiffer  the  dough  the  better;  in  summer 
use  les:-  yeast  and  mix  soft. 

So  in  mixing  biscuit.  I  have,  before  now,  when 
training  down  the  rawness  of  a  lot  of  picked-up 
summer  resort  help,  placed  all  the  ingredients  for 
biscuits  for  the  early  breakfast  of  a  party  of  tremen- 
dous trvut  fishers,  in  a  pan,  and  then  a  baker  who 
was  a  bread  baker  and  nothing  else  has  utterly 
sp.iled  them  in  ihe  mixing,  making  them  harder 
than  crackers  and  not  half  as  good.  Biscuit  should 
be  mixed  as  soft  as  fritter  batter,  so  that  when  the 
scrapings  (-f  the'pan  in  flour  and  scr  ps  of  doa^h  are 
added  ii  can  eti'.l  be  pressed  out  easily  wih  the  flat 
hands  till  worked  smooth.  Whenever  your  biscuit 
dough  is  S-)  tough  that  the  doubled  fists  must  be 
used  ;  0  press  it  out,  conclude  that  you  have  made 
the  common  mistake,  and  have  something  yet  to 
learn  aboui  mixing  biscuit. 


Mould   out  your    dough  for  rolls  in  little  round 


hill".  Easier  said  than  done.  The  beginner  takes 
the  pieces  of  dough  in  hand  but  they  won't  roll,  but 
skate  a'l  over  the  table  instead.  You  must  brush 
away  the  flnur,  have  the  table  so  that  the  rolls  wiU 
almost  s  iek  to  it,  very  slightly  dust  your  hands 
with  flour,  take  two  fresh,  moist  pieces  and  roll 
them  under  the  hands  with  a  slight  pressure.  The 
ball  of  the  thumb  draws  the  outside  of  the  dough  to- 
wards the  palm  and  makes  a  smooth  ball.  Of  course 
you  must  mould  two  at  once,  using  both  hands,  else 
you  will  never  get  ready  for  breakfast.  Expert 
hands  seldom  stop  to  cut  off  the  little  pieces  of 
dough;  they  can  grab  the  right  sized  pieces  for  rolls 
from  the  lump  with  both  hands,  as  quick  as  wink- 
ing. Vou  injure  the  dough  by  much  moulding. 
The  quicker  you  can  get  a  smooth  outside  the  bet- 
ter. 


Brush  your  hot  loaves  from  the  oven  with  water, 
They  are  going  to  shrink  as  they  cool,  and  if  the 
crust  will  not  give,  the  crumb  will  part  inside  and 
make  broken  slices. 


The  bakers  have  a  saying  that  it  don't  matter  how 
you  mould  up  the  loaves  if  you  make  the  dough 
good.  But  that  is  only  a  comparative  way  of  speak- 
ing, and  they  don't  have  to  slice  and  toast  their 
bread  as  we  do,  and  see  the  rough  ends  and  broken 
slices  go  to  waste  by  the  bushel.  If  the  reader  will 
turn  back  to  our  directions  for  moulding  hotel  loaves 
he  will  find  a  way  that  makes  loaves  as  smooth  and 
seamless  as  a  watermelon,  but  it  remains  to  say  that 
moulding  the  loaves  round  first  is  done  in  either  of  two 
ways.  If  you  are  in  practice  with  rolls  you  can 
mould  small  loaves  with  both  hands,  the  same  way. 
If  not,  do  as  the  bakers  do  with  "tin  loaves"  and 
Vienna  bread.  The  shop  bakers  like  to  make  loaves 
in  tia  moulds  because  they  use  for  that  soft  dough 
carrying  much  water,  and  gaining  for  them  several 
pounds  in  a  barrel  of  flour.  The  bread  so  made  is 
moist  to  cut  and  to  keep  and  does  not  crumble.  But 
as  every  loaf  will  expand  in  the  oven  and  may  open 
at  the  ends  like  the  gaping  shell  of  a  dead  oyster,  it 
is  the  business  of  the  moulder  to  form  and  fold  the 
loaf  so  that  it  shall  open  and  rise  just  where  he  wills 
it,  and  nowhere  else. 

To  mould  "tin  loaves  :"  Your  dough  being  prop- 
erly kneaded  in  layers  leave  it  lying  in  a  rather 
thin  sheet.  Cut  that  into  the  right  sized  squares  for 
loaves.  The  expert  workman  makes  them  a  little 
longer  one  way  than  the  other.  Take  one  of  the 
pi  ces,  press  it  out  with  the  knuckles,  double  it, 
mailing  a  square.  Catch  the  furthest  corner  with 
the  extended  fingers  atid  pull  it  over,  and  under  the 
wrists,  which  press  it  in  the  middle.  Tura  the  piece 
cf  dough  under  the  hands  and  reach  aaother  corner. 
Six  motions  makes  a  round,  smooth  loaf  with  a  mid- 
dle depre.sion  made  by  the  wrists. 

Now  extend  this  depression  lengthwise,  forming 
a  trough   shape  by  pounding  and  lengthening  the 


164 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


middle  with  the  wrists  while  pulling  over  the  round- 
ipg  side  with  the  fingers.  Finally  roll  over  the  thick 
uriher  side  into  the  hollow  middle,  the  oiher  or 
near  side  forming  the  top  lap  to  the  rolled  up  loaf, 
and  place  it  iu  the  brick-shaped  mould.  Press  it 
down  slightly  in  the  mould  to  make  square  corners. 
This  loaf  will  rise  the  way  the  bakers  like  to  see — 
parted  on  one  side,  where  the  seam  was  left,  and 
•howling  the  whiteness  of  the  inside  without  a  break 
in  the  bread. 

Our  pic-nic  loaves  described  near  the  beginning 
are  called  Stollen  by  the  German  bakers.  This  kind 
of  sweetened  bread  is  often  made  richer  with  addi 
tions  of  citron,  etc.  The  bakers  make  up  the  loaves 
as  just  described,  only  doubling  the  two  sides  to- 
gether  instead  of  rolling,  making  a  long  split  roll 
without  any  brushing  with  lard  at  all. 

In  addition  to  the  names  Kauglauff  and  Kugeloff 
applied  to  the  varieties  of  yeast  raised  cakes,  of 
which  5<oZZm  is  one,Urbain-Dubois  spells  it  Congloff, 
making  three  authorized  ways,  all  meaning  the 
same  as  Polish  Baba,  which  is  a  gsneral  term  for 
raised  cakes,  and  French  Savarin  which,  according 
to  Dubois'  menus  serves  to  designate  several  varieties 
of  cakes.  These  things  are  mentioned  as  helping 
to  throw  light  on  the  mysteries  of  foreign  menus^ 
which  "our  own  correspondents"  in  Europe  delight 
to  humiliate  their  Western  cousins  with. 

Now  about  moulding  French  loaves.  We  have 
been  unwilling  to  poach  in  the  exclusive  shop  bak- 
er's grounds  further  than  the  thoroughness  and  use- 
fulness aimed  at  in  our  book  compelled,  and  will 
only  add  this;  If  you  wi-h  to  try  a  more  workman- 
like WJiy  than  that  previously  set  forth,  commence 
as  for  "iin  loaves,"  with  wrists  and  fingers  making 
the  piece  of  dough  into  a  round  ball  slightly  de- 
pressed. Push  these  aside  on  a  well  floured  part  of 
the  table  till  all  are  moulded.  Make  the  trough-like 
depression  across  these  with  a  rolling  pin  instead  of 
the  wrists,  using  plenty  of  flour,  and  depressing  all 
before  folding  any.  As  no  lard  is  used  and  bakers 
do  not  cut  the  loaves,  the  flour  and  the  incidental 
drying  of  the  dough  whi'e  waiting,  helps  the  desired 
parting  open  of  the  seam  when  baking.  Having 
practised  thus  far  you  can  double  the  loaves  like 
split  rolls— without  any  greasing — and  experiment 
further  at  your  pleasure. 

In  a  large  western  city  the  writer  knew  a  baker 
who  sold  little  French  loaves  (petits-pains)  in  quan- 
tities that  can  best  be  described  as  cart  loads,  and 
he  made  them  almost  as  just  above  described.  Tak- 
ing the  four  corners  of  the  little  flat  pieces  of  dougb, 
he  pressei  them  with  the  points  of  the  fingers  into 
the  midd'e,  and  with  a  blow  of  the  edge  of  the  open 
hand  made  the  roU  ready  for  a  little  rolling  pin  de- 
pression, making  it  very  long  and  narrow,  then 


pinching  up  the  two  thick  sides  together,  slightly 
lapping  one  upon  the  other,  and  without  any  touch 
tf  lard  about  them,  he  placed  them  in  pans  so  that 
when  raised  and  baked  they  opened  out  cleft  rolls  of 
very  fine  appearance  and  of  flaky  texture. 

Practice  Makes  Perfect. 

Pastry  cooks  and  bakers  wishing  their  French 
rolls  to  open  up  tall  and  lean  backwards,  only  touch 
a  streak  of  melted  lard  on  one  side  of  the  depressed 
piece  of  dough,  just  where  the  lips,  when  the  roll  is 
doubled,  meet,  and  none  on  the  top.  This  gives  the 
roll  a  start  to  open  without  quite  making  a  split  roll 
of  it.  Different  stewards  and  bosses  having  diff"erent 
notions  about  how  these  things  should  be  it  is  often 
difficult  for  a  young  man,  however  willing  and  cap- 
able, to  get  a  foothold  with  them  without  the 
knowledge  of  just  such  variations  of  method  as  the 
above. 

030.  

Sorry  there  should  be  such  a  thing  as  a  warmed 
over  roll  in  the  world,  but  there  will  always  happen 
to  be  whole  pans  of  the  nicest  rolls  left  over,  and 
somebody  will  always  want  breakfast  at  four  in  the 
morning  and  expect  hot  bread.  The  very  best  way 
to  warm  over  .rolls,  so  that  none  but  the  most  criti- 
cal can  tell  them  from  fresh  baked,  is  this  :  Wet  a 
clean  cloth  in  clean  water — half  a  flour  sack,  for 
instance— and  wring  it  out.  Lay  this  over  your 
cold  rolls  and  set  them  in  the  oven.  In  about  five 
minutes,  or  when  the  cloth  is  dry,  the  rolls  will  be 
warmed  through  and  almost  as  good  as  new. 

Never,  if  it  can  be  avoided,  let  the  rolls  stay  in 
pans  over  night — it  soils  the  bottom  crust.  Turn 
them  out  to  dry. 

If  your  iron  pails  soil  the  crust  of  the  steamed 
brown  bread,  it  can  be  prevented  by  lining  them 
with  manilla  paper,  lightly  brushed  over  with 
melted  lard.  The  loaves  come  out  looking  as  nice  as 
cake. 


By  (he-way,  we  forgot  to  put  the  cross  mark  on 
the  hot  cross  buns.  It  has  no  use,  however,  except 
once  a  year,  on  good  Friday,  to  enable  British  chil- 
dren to  make  a  few  pennies  by  selling  them,  perpet^ 
uating  some  old  custom,  nobody  seems  to  know  for 
a  certainty  what. 

A  cross  mark  cut  on  the  buns  as  they  are  placed 
in  the  pans  will  remain  and  show;  but  if  you  let  the 
buns  rise  half  light  enough,  then  with  a  choppiug 
knife  cut  down  deep,  and  let  the  buns  finish  rising, 
the  depression  will  remain  and  make  the  buns  ap- 
pear to  be  in  four  parts. 

Those  bun-sellers  make  the  **one  a-penny-buns" 
a  little  richer  than  the  *'two-a-penny-buns;"  and 
they  have  to  be  a  little  larger,  too,  or  else  when  the 
one-a-penny-two-a-penny-hot-cross  buns  are  all  in  a 
basket  together,  they  wouldn't  know  'tother  from 
which,  you  know. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


155 


TWENTY  WAYS  OF  COOKING  OOBN 
621.  MEAL. 


"Corn  is  the  most  widely  cultivated  grain  in  the 
world,  with  the  exception  of  rice." 

"As  to  nutritive  matter,  corn  is  only  exceeded  by 
wheat,  and  lollowed  by  rice  among  the  leading  arti- 
cles of  food.  Calculated  according  to  the  physilogi- 
cal  wants  of  the  system,  a  week's  diet  for  an  adult 
would  only  cost  about  twenty  cents,  and,  excepting 
split  peas,  there  is  nothing  approaching  corn  for 
economy." 

"Even  in  the  United  States,  where  thirty-seven 
million  acres  are  devoted  to  the  culture  of  Indian 
corn,  yielding  a  total  product  of  thirteen  hundred 
million  bushels,  while  the  wheat  crop  of  the  world 
is  only  seven  hundred  and  sixty  million  bushels,  we 
only  understand  the  economic  value  of  corn  as  cattle 
food." 

"In  buying  wheat  flour,  the  same  outlay  would 
purchase  double  the  amount  of  nutriment  in  Indian 
meal.  The  prejudice  against  the  use  of  corn  as  an 
article  of  human  food  is  based  on  ignorance  in  many 
cases,  and  on  false  pride  in  others.  Wheat  is  most 
agreeable  to  the  taste,  and  is  preferred  by  a  greater 
portion  of  the  human  family,  or,  at  least,  by  those 
who  are  able  to  purchase  it.  While  all  the  world  is 
familiar  with  wheat  as  an  article  of  food,  not  one- 
tenth  of  its  population  ever  heard  of  Indian  corn  ex- 
cept as  cattle  food.  It  is  quite  remarkable  that  not- 
withstanding its  acknowledged  good  qualities  and  its 
economy,  yet  it  is  but  little  known  to  the  people  oi 
those  portions  of  Europe  to  whom  cheap  food  is  an 
absolute  necessity ;  and  even  in  times  of  famine  it 
has  required  judicious  and  persistent  governmental 
efforts  to  induce  famishing  communities  to  use  it." 
The  preceding  statements,  taken  here  and  there 
from  an  able  statistical  article  in  the  Boston  Cultiva- 
tor, suggest  the  conclusion  that  it  would  be  a  good 
thing  in  a  general  way,  if  all  people  could  be  led  to 
like  corn  better  than  wheat.  It  is  our  business  to 
believe  that  such  a  consummation  can  be  reached 
solely  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  cooks ;  by 
the  more  general  diflFusion  of  knowledge  of  the  best 
ways  of  using  corn  meal,  and  encouragement  to  put 
in  those  extra  careful  touches  which  are  needed  to 
make  even  the  best  receipts  thoroughly  successful.  My 
own  experience  as  a  cook  warrants  the  assertion  that 
corn  bread  properly  made  and  carefully  baked,  can 
be  made  popular  almost  anywhere.  The  small  loaf 
that  at  first  finds  no  takers  is  presently  in  demand, 
and  then  gives  place  to  one  of  twice  or  thrice  the 
8i?e,  a  proportionate  amount  of  wheat  bread  being 
thereby  displaced. 

That  an  entire  community,  state  or  nation  may 
have  a  real  preference  for  corn  over  wheat  bread,  is 
shown  by  the  fact  of  the  matter  in  the  Southern 
States,  where  corn  bread  is  never  out  of  place,  even 
at  the  best  furnished  tables. 


The  rich  breads  and  puddings  with  which  we  shall 
first  lead  corn  meal  into  general  favor,  are  not  com- 
mended on  the  score  of  cheapness,  except  in  country 
places  where  eggs  and  butter  have  but  little  market 
value;  but  that  it  is  a  real  liking  for  corn  meal,  pure 
and  simple,  and  not  for  the  condiments,  which  ob- 
tains among  so  large  a  proportion  of  the  Southerners, 
is  seen  from  the  fact  that  the  prevailing  dinner 
bread  at  the  most  expensively  provided  steamboat 
and  hotel  tables  was  formerly,  and  probably  is  yet, 
the  corn  cake  made  of  nothing  whatever  but  meal 
and  water. 

Why  one  section  should  prefer  a  corn  diet  more 
than  another  when  there  is  no  consideratiion  of  econ- 
omy involved  at  all,  I  have  never  seen  fully  accounted 
for,  and  will  venture  the  supposition  that  it  shows 
the  result  of  tastes  trained  in  early  life  by  a  race  of 
domestic  cooks  who  knew  how  to  make  corn  bread 
good.     What  has  been  done  can  be  done  again. 

It  will  not  be  expected  that  we  professed  cooks 
shall  dabble  either  in  political  economy  or  social  sci- 
ence, but  I,  for  one,  cannot  help  thinking  that  a  bet- 
ter knowledge  of  the  ways  to  make  corn  meal  a  pal- 
atable diet,  difiused  throughout  the  land,  would  re 
suit  in  bringing  the  fiifteen-cents-per-bushel  corn  of 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  into  its  proper  use — of  fur- 
nishing cheap  and  wholesome  food  and  luxuries  for 
the  million. 

In  the  culinary  departments  of  the  best  American 
hotels,  it  is  but  reasonable  to  expect  that  the  greatest 
perfection  in  compounding  American  specialties  will 
have  been  attained.  However  there  is  only  one  not- 
able instance  of  a  large  hotel  becoming  celebrated 
for  its  corn  bread,  even  that  is  nearly  forgotten,  now 
that  there  is  no  more  call  for  special  commissions  to 
go  and  teach  the  art  to  Europe. 

I  have  seen  "going  the  rounds,"  what  purported 
to  be  a  receipt  for  St.  Charles  corn  bread,  which 
mentioned  sugar  as  one  of  the  ingredients,  but  can- 
not consider  it  genuine.  Difierent  cooks  may  have 
had  diflFerent  ways,  but  the  following  was  the  form- 
ula in  use  on  the  floating  palaces  of  the  same  day, 
such  steamboats  as  the  Southern  Belle  and  the  Mag- 
nolia, of  the  "coast"  trade,  and  the  long-trip  boats 
which  made  the  excellence  of  this  bread  known  on 
the  upper  rivers.  We  used  to  bake  it  in  cake  moulds, 
and  sometimes  serve  it  with  sauce  as  corn  pound 
pudding;  more  in  fun  than  from  any  necessities  of 
the  case.  It  can  be  sliced  thin  like  cake,  and  used 
in  many  ways : 


OSS.  St.  Charles  Corn  Bread. 


1  pound  of  white  corn  meal  (not  quite  a  quart). 
4  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  melted  (size  of  two  eggs). 
1  pint  of  boiling  water. 
1  pint  of  cold  milk. 
4  eggs.     1  level  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  teaspoonful  of  wholesome,  home-made  baking 
powder. 


16« 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Pour  the  boiling  water  into  the  meal,  wetting  and 
scalding  it  all.  Then  add  the  melted  butter,  salt  and 
milk,  and  then  the  eggs.  Put  the  baking  pan  in  the 
oven  to  get  hot,  without  greasing  it.  Add  the  pow- 
der to  the  batter ;  beat  up  with  the  large  wire  egg- 
whisk,  then  pour  it  into  the  pan.  The  batter  is  as 
thin  as  for  batter  cakes.  IF  the  pan  is  hissing  hot 
it  never  sticks,  and  there  is  no  discoloration  of  burnt 
grease.  This  bread  should  be  about  an  inch  and  a 
half  deep  in  the  pan,  and  bake  half  an  hour  or  more. 
The  sooner  the  top  crust  is  formed  the  better,  after 
that  it  needs  to  bake  slowly. 

This,  when  done,  is,  of  course,  only  corn  bread, 
but  it  has  the  peculiar  characteristic,  that  everybody 
likes  it.  But  pastry  cooks,  generally,  "hate  to  make 
it."  It  is  a  little  hard  to  bake  just  right.  For  an- 
other sort,  not  too  rich  nor  good  for  human  nature's 
daily  food,  we  have  the  regular  stand-by — the  com- 
mon hotel  corn  bread,  which  may  be  good  or  other- 
wise, according  to  the  skill  of  the  maker. 


OS3.    Oolmnon  Com  Bread. 


1  pound  of  white  corn  meal. 
3  ounces   of  melted  lard   (2  large  basting-spoon- 
fuls). 

1  pint  of  boiling  water. 

1  pint  of  cold  water  or  milk. 

2  eggs.     1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  small  teaspoonful  of  home-made  baking  powder. 

Scald  about  two-thirds  of  the  meal  with  the  boiling 
water,  leaving  the  rest  at  the  side  of  the  pan  to  be 
stirred  in  with  the  other  ingredients.  Beat  the 
powder  in  last,  and  bake  as  directed  for  the  other 
kind. 

Now  if  corn  meal  was  always  alike  there  would  be 
no  more  to  be  said.  But  here  is  where  the  genius 
for  making  corn  bread  comes  in.  Both  of  these  sorts 
should  have  a  smooth  crust  rounded  over  like  a  good 
pound  cake.  The  particular  point  is  the  scalding  of 
the  meal,  and  that  varies  according  as  the  meal 
is  fine  or  coarse  ground.  I  have  known  some  few 
neophytes  who  saw  into  the  deepest  depths  of  this 
profound  matter  at  the  first  glance,  but  others,  seem- 
ingly as  intelligent,  would  slip  up  every  time  a  dif- 
ferent grade  of  meal  came  in  hand.  Sometimes  the 
crust  would  rise  and  crack  open  forty  ways,  like  a 
map  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  bread  would 
fall  to  pieces.  That  was  because  the  meal  was  coarse 
and  not  sufficiently  scalded,  or  not  mixed  thin 
enough  Sometimes  the  bread  would  rise  at  first, 
but  then  cave  in,  all  but  the  edges,  like  a  pond  gone 
dry,  and  cut  like  mush.  That  was  because  the  meal 
was  fine  ground,  and  would  not  bear  scalding  much. 
White  meal  coarsely  ground  is  the  best.  Some  few 
peopk  think  they  like  yellow  meal,  but  as  surely  as 
it  IS  put  to  the  test  in  hotel  cookery  the  demand  both 
for  bread  and  mush  falls  otF,  and  both  are  soon  en- 
tirely neglected      And  yellow  meal,  for  some  reason, 


soon  acquires  a  bitter,  musty  taste,  which  may  have 
as  much  to  do  with  the  small  liking  there  is  for  cora 
meal  preparations  as  any  other  reason. 


634. 


Corn  Gems. 


Corn  gems  were  instituted  to  meet  the  grave  emer- 
gency that  arises  when  more  than  four  persons  in 
one  house  want  a  corner  piece  of  corn  bread.  Their 
other  use  is  for  corn  bread  in  individual  style. 

There  is  no  need  of  special  receipts,  as  both  of  the 
corn  bread  mixtures  already  given  are  first  rate,, 
baked  in  gem  pans.  The  richest,  for  individual 
loaves,  should  be  baked  in  deep  round  pans.  The 
people  who  call  for  corner  pieces  like  the  other,  baked 
thin,  to  be  nearly  all  crust.  The  gems  should  be 
fresh  baked,  every  half-hour,  served  hot  and  not 
sweated  in  the  pans. 


635. 


Com  Meal  Muffins. 


The  very  best  are  made  with  yeast,  but  these  arc 
very  good  and  can  be  made  on  shortest  notice. 
"Whoe'er  rejects  them  must  be  hard  to  please. 

And  ripe  for  treasons,  stratagems  and  spoils." 
1  pound  of  white  cornmeal  (not  quite  a  quart). 
4  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  lard,  or  both  mixed. 

1  pint  of  boiling  water. 

1^  pints  of  cold  milk  (3  cups). 
Half  pound  of  flour.     Salt. 
Yolks,  only,  of  4  eggs. 

2  small  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powdej. 

Put  the  shortening  in  a  saucepan  with  the  water, 
boil,  and  scald  the  meal  with  them.  Add  the  salt, 
then  the  milk  and  flour  alternately,  then  the  yolks, 
and  lastly  the  powder  beaten  in  well  with  the  wire 
egg-whisk. 

Bake  in  greased  muffin  rings,  10  or  15  minutes,  in 
a  hot  oven.     Serve  hot. 

The  batter  must  be  thin  to  make  good  muffins. 
Make  the  pan  hot  on  which  the  rings  ar«  placed,  be- 
fore filling,  to  prevent  running  under ;  otherwise  use 
rings  with  bottoms. 

In  daily  practice  we  learn  short  ways  to  work, 
with  fewest  vessels.  When  the  object  is  to  thoroughly 
scald  the  meal,  it  is  not  best  to  put  the  unmelted 
shortening  with  it  first,  but  the  way  indicated  above 
is  good  for  all  kinds  of  corn  breads.  The  milk  is 
necessary  to  give  good  color  in  baking. 


G20. 


Tortillas. 


Now  that  direct  trade  between  Chicago  and  Old 
Mexico  is  about  to  be  opened,  it  might  be  as  well  to 
pay  a  little  attention  to  Mexican  preferences,  too 

How  romantic  are  all  the  words  that  come  straying 
among  us  from  that  land  of  the  sun !  And  how  all 
the  Mexican  story-writers,  from  Captain  Mayne 
Reid  down,  have  revelled   and  gloried  in  the  power 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


167 


these  sonorous  terms  gave  them  over  the  imagination 
of  their  bewildered  Northern  readers !  Tarantula, 
arroya,  caballero,  ranchero,  hacienda,  cuisiniero,  tor 
tilla !  It  was  always  the  tortilla  that  crowned  the 
closing  day.  The  tempting  tortilla ;  the  sweet,  the 
delicious  tortilla. 

But  the  story-writer  has  yet  to  be  born  with  self- 
denial  enough  to  drop  his  romance  and  tell  his  won- 
dering readers  what  the  tortilla  is. 

Once  I  became  acquainted  with  a  Mexican  youth, 
who  was  a  native  of  the  ancient  city  of  the  Montezu- 
mas.  There  was  poetry  in  his  name.  It  was  Man- 
uel de  Carvalho.  There  was  poetry  in  his  face,  for 
he  had  melancholy  eyes  and  a  sentimental  mous- 
tache. His  ancestors  were  Dons,  but  he,  alas,  was 
but  valet  to  an  English  tourist.  He  had  been  through 
all  the  gay  capitals  of  the  Old  World,  yet  nothing 
had  ever  prevailed  to  chase  the  cynical  expression 
from  his  lips,  or  withdraw  his  thoughts  from  the 
home  of  his  early  days. 

And  then  he  came  to  a  noted  pleasure  resort  that 
was  frequented  by  wealthy  Southern  people.  And 
on  going  into  the  bakery  one  day,  he  saw  a  griddle 
full  of  something  that  caused  him  to  stop,  open- 
mouthed,  with  delighted  surprise ;  and  as  soon  as  he 
was  sure  he  could  believe  his  eyes  he  struck  an  atti- 
tude, clasped  his  hands  and  shouted  in  ecstacy : 
"Ha,  ha! — Tor — theel — as!"  So  at  last  Manuel 
was  happy.  And  this  is  how  the  tortillas  were 
made: 


Mexican  Tortillas. 


Mix  a  quart  of  white  corn  meal  with  boiling  water 
enough  to  barely  wet  it,  and  cold  water  after  that  to 
make  it  like  thin  mush.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Drop  large  spoonfuls  on  the  hot  griddle,  and  spread 
them  out  to  form  thin  cakes. 

"But,"  you  say,  "your  toritUas  are  nothing  but 
the  Southern  hoe  cakes."  Yes,  that's  what  they  are. 
But  many  people  like  hoe  cakes  better  if  they  are 
shortened  a  little. 


OST, 


Hoe  Cakes,  or  Com  Bannocks. 


2  pounds  of  white  corn  meal. 

Half  pound  of  lard. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  lard  in  the  middle  of  the  meal  with  the 
salt,  and  pour  in  a  little  boiling  water  to  melt  it. 
Then  add  cold  water  or  milk  to  make  like  thin  mush. 
Bake  on  a  griddle  or  "hoe,"  placing  the  dough  with 
a  spoon  and  flattening  out  thin. 


"Why  cannot  we  have  this?" 
"You  can  have  it." 

"What  13  it  folded  so  nicely  in  a  napkin? 
liki.  brown  bread." 
"It  is  brown  bread." 


"And  you  have  brown  bread  plenty  on  hand  all 
the  time?" 

"0,  but  this  is  not  bakers'  Boston  brown ;  tHs  is 
delicious." 

That  was  said  before  the  Chicago  fire.  0,  incom- 
prehensible hotel  boarders  who  live  always  on  the  fat 
of  the  land  and  tire  of  it !  But  in  a  well-regulated 
hotel  you  can  have  anything.  This  is  one  of  the  va 
rieties  of  bread  made  principally  of  corn  meal  which 
the  Boston  writer  before  quoted,  had  in  mind : 

"On  account  of  its  lack  of  gluten,  Indian  meal  is 
not  well  adapted  for  making  bread  without  a  slight 
admixture  of  wheat  or  rye  flour." 

That  is  the  eastern  idea,  not  the  southern  or  west- 
ern. 

This  kind  of  bread  is  very  It  con- 

tains no  shortening,  except  what  may  be  conveyed 
by  rich  buttermilk,  when  that  can  be  had  instead  of 
baking  powder,  and  is  probably  very  healthful  eaten 
cold.  Reckless  inhabitants  of  the  hotel  world,  gen- 
erally prefer  to  eat  it  right  away  quick  while  it  is 
hot.     And  still  very  few  deaths  occur. 


Looks 


es8. 

steamed,     or     "Home-Made"     Brown 
Bread. 


2  pounds  of  corn  meal. 

1  quart  of  boiling  water. 

Half  pint  of  re-boiled,  black  molasses  (coflfee  cup 
full). 

1^  pints  of  cold  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

4  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

1  pound  of  graham  flour. 

1  pound  of  white  flour. 

Pour  the  water  boiling  into  the  meal  and  stir;  then 
mix  in  the  molasses  and  the  other  ingredients  in  the 
order  as  written — the  powder  in  the  flour — and  stir 
up  thoroughly.  It  makes  a  stiff  batter,  too  soft  to  be 
handled.  Put  it  in  two  pails  with  tight-fitting  lids 
and  steam  from  4  to  6  hours,  then  bake  a  short  time 
to  form  a  crust.  The  pails  should  be  made  for  the 
purpose,  of  best  stovepipe  iron,  a  trifle  wider  at  top 
than  at  bottom.  Brush  a  little  lard  over  the  insides 
and  then  wipe  it  off  thoroughly  before  putting  in  the 
dough,  and  there  will  be  no  stains  on  the  crust  when 
done.  Where  there  is  a  steam  chest  to  the  range,  over 
which  vegetables  are  steamed,  the  pails  can  be  set  in- 
side in  the  water,  and  then  there  is  nothing  in  the 
bread  line  more  easily  made  than  this.  Makes  8 
pounds  of  bread ;  cuts  into  about  4  dozen  slices. 
Enough  for  the  average  orders  of  75  people  for  one 
meal,  there  being  other  kinds  of  bread.  But  if  you 
have  had  it  talked  about  all  through  the  house  40 
people  will  get  away  with  this  much  easily.  Such  is 
the  effect  of  ad  vertising.  Should  th  e  bread  cut  sticky, 
use  a  little  less  liquid  in  mixing  next  time. 

Our  "Twenty  ways"  will  include  four  baked  pud- 


y 


158 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


dings  of  Indian  meal,  of  dilBFerent  degrees,  and  this 
following  will,  probably,  by  good  judges,  be  consid- 
ered the  best. 

"Tell  that  cook,"  said  a  healthy  St.  Louis  captain, 
his  boat  then  laid  up  in  the  ice,  "to  make  this  once 
more  and  let  me  know  when,  and  then  he  may  go  to 
heaven." 

Most  of  us  have  heard  something  like  that  in  a 
sarcastic  mood,  but  this  was  a  jolly  bon  vivant,  and 
was  being  helped  the  second  time,  so  before  "that 
cook"  started  to  heaven,  I  prevailed  upon  him  to 
abstract  and  perfect  out  of  the  chaos  of  his  guess- 
work the  following  receipt. 


6:39.        Mohawk  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  milk. 
10  ounces  of  corn  meal. 

4  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

6  ounces  of  rebelled  black  molasses. 

5  whole  eggs. 

6  yolks. 

1  large  lemon. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Make  mush  in  the  usual  way  by  bringing  the  milk 
to  a  boil,  sprinkling  in  the  meal  and  beating  at  the 
same  time  with  egg  whisk  to  prevent  lumps.  Stir 
over  a  fire  a  few  minutes ;  then  put  on  a  tight  lid  to 
keep  the  steam  in ;  push  the  saucepan  to  the  back  of 
the  range  and  let  the  mush  remain  at  cooking  heat 
without  burning,  for  two  hours  or  more.  Then  turn 
it  out  into  a  pan  and  mix  in  the  other  ingredients — 
the  eggs  beaten  light — the  rind  of  the  lemon  grated 
and  the  juice  squeezed  in.  Bake  about  half  an 
hour,  or  till  the  egg  in  it  is  fairly  set,  and  no  longer. 

This  makes  about  3  quarts  of  pudding ;  enough 
for  the  average  orders  of  50  persons.  It  can  be 
baked  in  fluted  pudding  moulds,  and  turned  out 
whole  if  handled  carefully,  where  so  required,  or  else 
in  two  small  pans  well  buttered. 

A  mild,  neutral  sauce  is  best  with  this.  If  hot 
sweetened  cream  cannot  be  had  try  the  following, 
which  is  as  ornamental  as  useful, 

630.  

Sauce  Doree,    Golden  Sauce,  or  Butter 

Sauce. 


1  pound  of  white  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

1  quart  of  water. 

4  ounces  of  best  fresh  butter. 

2  or  3  yolks  of  eggs. 
Nutmeg  extract  to  flavor. 

Boil  the  water  in  a  bright  saucepan.  Mix  the 
starch  in  the  sugar  dry,  and  rapidly  stir  them  in. 
When  it  has  boiled  up,  beat  in  the  butter.  Pour  a 
little  sauce  to  the  yolks  in  a  cup ;  beat,  then  mix  all 
together.  Just  before  it  begins  to  boil  remove  it  from 
the  fire,  taking  care  the  yolks  do  not  curdle  with  too 
much  cooking. 


031.      Ohickasa-w  Pudding. 


Brown    Indian    Souflle. 


Perhaps  not  the  connoisseur's  pudding,  but 
thought  by  many  to  have  less  style  and  more  real 
comfort  in  it  than  any  other.  It  is  something  of  a 
curiosity  for  its  puffy  lightness,  and  should  be  served 
whole  in  that  condition  as  soon  as  done,  or  else  dish 
it  up,  if  you  wish  to  secure  for  the  bubble  reputation, 
out  of  the  oven's  mouth. 

You  will  never  know  it  at  its  best,  unless  you  can 
procure  the  old-fashioned,  thick,  black  molasses. 

3  pints  of  water. 
12  ounces  of  corn  meal. 

1  pound  of  re-boiled  black  molasses. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  eggs. 

No  salt  needed  but  what  is  in  the  butter,  and  take 
care  that  it  has  not  too  much. 

Make  mush  by  sprinkling  the  dry  meal  into  the 
boiling  water,  and  beating  at  the  same  time  with  the 
egg  whisk.  When  it  has  boiled  a  minute  or  two  put 
in  the  butter  and  molasses,  stir  together,  put  on  the 
lid  and  push  the  saucepan  to  the  back  of  the  range 
to  simmer  about  an  hour.  It  is  not  very  apt  to  burn. 
Then  turn  the  mixture  into  a  pan,  beat  the  8  eggs  a 
little  and  gradually  stir  them  in. 

Bake  in  a  slow  oven  about  45  minutes.  Makes 
about  2^  quarts. 

Eat  hot  with  cream,  or,  failing  that,  make  this 
sauce,  which  will  relieve  its  want  of  color. 


63;3«    Lemon  Butter  Sauce. 


Sauce  Oitronne. 


1  pound  of  sugar. 

2  ounces  of  corn  starch. 

1  quart  of  water. 

2  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

2  lemons'  rind  grated  and  juice  of  one. 

6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Mix  the  sugar,  grated  rind  and  starch  together  dry; 
stir  them  into  the  boiling  water ;  add  the  lemon  juice 
and  butter,  and  when  it  boils  again  pour  in  the  beat- 
en yolks  quickly  and  beat  well.  As  soon  as  the  eggs 
begin  to  thicken  take  the  sauce  from  the  lire  and 
strain  immediately. 

633.    Thanksgiving  Pudding. 


Indian  Plum  Pudding,   Steamed. 


3  quarts  of  milk. 
1^  pounds  of  corn  meal. 
8  ounces  of  butter,  or  minced  suet. 
12  ounces  of  re-boiled^  black  molasses. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  OOOK. 


159 


10  whole 
10  yolks. 

2  lemons. 

1  pound  of  seedless  raisins. 

1  pound  of  good,  clean  currants. 

Pinch  of  salt. 

Make  mush  with  the  meal  and  milk  and  let  it  cook 
at  back  of  the  range,  with  tight  lid  on,  for  2  hours  or 
more.  Then  add  the  other  ingredients  in  order  as 
written — the  rinds  of  the  lemons  grated  and  juice 
squeezed  in,  and  eggs  all  beaten  light  together. 
Dust  the  fruit  with  a  small  cup  of  flour.  Steam  in 
pudding  moulds  an  hour  and  a  half  or  longer,  ac- 
cording to  size.     This  makes  4^  quarts. 

Butter  the  moulds  and  shake  flour  inside  before 
filling.  Serve  with  any  sauce  suitable  for  English 
plum  pudding. 


635.   Thanksgiving  Pudding. 


Indian  Plum  Pudding  Baked. 


The  same  as  the  preceding,  except  that  chopped 
apples  can  be  used  instead  of  currants,  or  in  addi- 
tion to  them,  which  would  make  the  steamed  pud- 
ding too  soft.  Spices  can  be  added  at  option.  May 
be  baked  in  deep  ornamental  moulds,  well  buttered 
and  dusted  with  flour,  and  served  with  burning 
brandy  sauce.  Will  bake  in  half  the  time  required 
for  steaming. 


634. 

Fatty  Bread  and  Butteimilk. 


•  This  entree  never  appeared  on  any  bill-of-fare.  It 
is  hoped  that  nobody  will  make  it,  it  might  be 
thought  too  rich  for  good  health.  It  is  put  in  here 
merely  in  an  historical  sort  of  way,  because  it  is 
strictly  American  and  is  not  on  record  in  any  of  the 
French  books.  To  be  still  more  precise,  it  is  an  in- 
stitution of  Blackville,  and  the  people  who  believed 
in  it  had  broad  shiny  faces  and  did  not  know  a 
thing  about  dyspepsia.  Although  again  it  is  hoped 
nobody  will  ever  make  anything  so  greasy  anymore, 
it  has  to  be  recorded  that  the  boys  who  did  not  be- 
long in  Blackville  had  a  wonderful  knack  of  coming 
home  from  squirrel  shooting  at  sundown,  just  at  the 
most  favorable  time  for  snatching  a  portion  of  this 
peculiar  feast,  to  which  the  Blackville  people  did  not 
welcome  them,  and  always  declared  it  tasted  better 
than  butternuts.  There  are  many  Blackvilles  in  the 
United  States,  and  the  one  where  this  dish  came 
nearest  being  named  in  French  was  on  Bayou  Black, 
not  very  far  from  New  Orleans,  but  you  could  not 
translate  the  French  spoken  there,  and,  moreover, 
•alabashes  full  of    sugar  cane  juice  from  the  mills 


took  the  place  of  buttermilk,  and  it  was  not  quite  the 
same  thing.  But  there  was  a  Blackville  near  that 
large  hotel  at  White  Sulphur  Springs,  and  Black- 
ville near  Brownsville,  on  Blackwater  river,  at  the 
Sweet  Springs  in  Missouri. 

It  was  only  in  the  flush  times  of  hog  killing  that 
Blackville  could  indulge  in  this  luxury  ;  but  if  com- 
pany was  expected  from  the  opposition  village,  what- 
ever its  name  was,  perhaps  the  young  Blaokvillans 
with  their  'possum  dogs  would  pass  a  whole  night  in 
the  woods  and  fell  any  number  of  trees  till  they  had 
'possums  enough.  Because  you  can't  make  fatty 
bread  without  fat,  and  'possum's  fat  does  very  well. 

Somebody  has  to  churn  in  the  morning  and  take 
the  buttermilk  down  to  the  spring  house  to  become 
cool.     The  rest  of  it  is  very  simple : 

1  pound  of  corn  meal. 

^  pound  of  lard  or  'possum  fat. 

Salt. 

Pour  the  lard,  melted,  into  the  meal,  and  stir  in 
enough  cold  water  to  make  it  like  thin  mush. 

Spread  in  thin  cakes  on  the  hot  stove  lid,  and 
when  fried  on  one  side  turn  them  over.  If  you 
have  no  stove,  but  only  a  fireplace  that  takes  in  half 
a  hickory  tree  trunk  at  a  time,  rake  out  some  coals 
and  bake  the  cakes  in  a  spider. 

To  be  eaten  hot,  with  cold  buttermilk. 


In  extreme  contrast  to  the  foregoing  is  the  White- 
ville  variety  of  breai. 


636. 


Corn   Dodgers. 


The  ordinary  dinner  bread  of  the  South. 

Take  the  required  quantity  of  corn  meal,  say  a 
quart,  and  stir  it  up  with  cold  water  enough  to  make 
it  like  thick  mush,  just  so  that  it  can  be  shaped. 
Make  it  with  hand  or  spoon,  in  shapes  like  goose 
eggs,  and  place  them  almost  touching  in  a  baking 
pan  that  is  kept  hot  on  top  of  the  range  while  they 
are  being  placed.      Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

It  is  usually  insisted  upon  that  no  salt  shall  be  put 
into  this  kind.     Serve  hot. 

Simple  as  this  is,  some  persons  can  make  it  twice 
as  palatable  as  others.  One  requirement  is  to  make 
the  meal  take  up  all  the  water  it  will  carry  without 
losing  shape.  Another  is  to  bake  it  in  a  very  hot 
oven,  so  that  it  will  become  brown  without  being  too 
dry  and  hard. 

While  everybody  will  agree  that  there  must  be  a 
perfection  point  for  every  common  article,  beyond 
which  it  cannot  be  improved,  it  is  hardly  likely 
that  anyone  will  take  the  trouble  to  scald  the  meal 
for  batter  cakes.  There  is  not  time  for  all  these 
little  things  in  hotel  business,  and  yet  it  has  to  be 
set  down  that  therein  lies  the  point  that  beats  com- 
mon work     The  following  will  do  without : 


160 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTB7  COOK. 


63T.       Com  Batter  Cakes. 


1  pound  of  white  corn  meal. 
J  pound  of  flour. 

3  ounces  of  melted  lard  (J  cup). 

2  eggs.     A  little  salt. 

1  quart  of  milk  or  water. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Mix  gradually  to  avoid  having  lumps  in  the  bat- 
ter, add  the  lard,  melted,  and  the  powder  last.  If 
no  milk,  a  spoonful  of  syrup  is  required  to  give  col- 
or. But  sometimes  you  have  to  work  for  thorough 
philomaizians  who  love  corn  for  itself  alone  and  do 
not  want  any  flour  in  theirs.  In  that  case  you  must 
pcald  the  meal. 


038.  

Corn  Batter  Cakes  "Without  Flour. 


IJ  pounds  of  corn  meal. 

1  quart  of  water  or  milk. 

4  ounces  of  lard. 

4  eggs.     Salt. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

Scald  the  meal  with  half  the  water,  and  mix  up 
the  same  as  if  for  corn  bread. 

In  all  the  preceding  receipts  where  baking  pow- 
der is  directed  to  be  used,  it  is  to  be  understood  that 
buttermilk  and  soda  will  do  as  well,  if  the  butter- 
milk be  genuine,  not  watered,  and  sour  enough  to 
counteract  a  small  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  the  pint. 


G30,     Theory  and  Practice. 

Since  it  has  become  the  very  general  custom  to  eat 
one  or  other  of  the  several  varieties  of  mush  as  a  first 
course  at  breakfast  and  supper,  the  best  methods  of 
preparing  the  simple  dish  so  as  to  have  it  in  perfec- 
tion can  no  longer  be  considered  a  matter  too  trifling 
for  any  first-rate  cook's  attention.  Besides,  what- 
ever of  consequence  mush  may  lack  in  the  instance, 
it  gains  through  diff'usion,  for  thousands  of  cooks  are 
wanted  to  make  good  mush  for  every  one  that  is  re- 
quired to  prepare  costly  and  ornamental  dinners;  so, 
you  see,  from  the  utility  point  of  view,  well-cooked 
mush  is  a  thousand  times  better  than  well  cooked 
truflHes.  And  if  that  reads  like  a  riddle  it  will  have 
to  go,  for  there  is  no  room  here  to  straighten  it  out. 

When  a  lot  of  corn  meal  is  piled  into  a  saucepan 
of  water,  not  half  enough  for  so  much  meal,  and  im- 
patiently stirred  up  and  served  ten  minutes  afterward, 
that  is  not  mush.  I  don't  know  what  it  is.  There  is 
no  name  for  it.  But  yet  there  are  people  so  possessed 
with  the  idea  that  mush  can  never  be  cooked  enough, 
that  they  become  crotchety,  one  might  almost  say 
fanatical,  in  pursuing  the  other  extreme. 

As  we  may  have  to  go  to  the  Germans  for  instruc- 
tion in  German  dishes,  to  the  French  when  the  mat- 
ter is  French,  and  to  the  English  when  the  excellence 
is  reputedly  theirs,  perhaps  no  excuse  is  needed  for 
going  often  to  the  Southern  States,  even  to  plantation 
Ufe  for  instances,  whilst  American  corn  meal  has  the 


front  place.  Down  in  that  land  of  large  estates  and 
extensive  operations,  there  used  to  be  places  where 
from  year's  end  to  year's  end  the  mush  cauldron 
never  stopped  boiling,  except  as  it  was  emptied  and 
replenished  once  in  every  twenty-four  hours,  that 
being  the  time  considered  necessary  for  the  meal  to 
cook  before  it  could  become  wholesome  food  for  the 
scores  of  laborers  whose  principal  food  it  was.  These 
kettles,  some  with  mush  and  some  with  hominy, 
hung  in  huge  fireplaces,  and  were  tended  by  old 
crones,with  stirring  paddles  like  boat  oars,  day  and 
night,  like  the  witches  in  Macbeth  with  their  "bub- 
ble, bubble,  toil  and  trouble ;  fire  burn  and  cauldron 
bubble."  How  should  we  like  to  make  mush  for  the 
folks  that  way  ?  There  are  a  good  many  degrees  be- 
tween ten-minute  mush  and  twenty-four  hour  mush, 
and  as  to  the  stirring  there  are  very  few  hotels  where 
even  ten  minutes  can  be  bestowed  upon  that  part 
as  a  regular  thing.  Fortunately  there  is  little  need 
of  it.  Heat  and  steam  are  restless  enough  to  keep  up 
a  very  fair  bubble  of  themselves  without  much  manual 
labor.  It  seems  to  be  with  corn  meal  as  with  rice, 
it  will  take  up  a  certain  amount  of  water  and  no 
more.  Ten  ounces  of  rice  will  absorb  a  quart  of  wa- 
ter and  all  the  water  that  is  added  beyond  that  only 
tends  to  separate  the  particles  and  make  a  blue 
gruel.  Five  ounces  of  corn  meal  will  do  the  same  as 
the  ten  ounces  of  rice,  absorb  a  quart  of  water  and 
no  more.  With  a  much  less  proportion  of  water  the 
meal  can  never  be  well  cooked,  because  the  finer 
particles  take  up  the  water  first  and  the  course 
grains  always  must  remain  raw  and  hard,  no  matter 
how  long  on  the  fire.  Rice  will  cook  well  done  in 
three-quarters  of  an  hour;  corn  meal  requires  about 
three  hours  to  reach  the  same  point,  although  it  may 
be  passibly  good  after  only  one  or  two  hours  boil- 
ing. 

To  reduce  the  time  of  cooking  some  people  steep 
the  meal  in  water  several  hours  before.  There  is 
nothing  to  be  said  against  this  except  that  it  is  likelier 
to  be  forgot  or  neglected  than  remembered  and  be- 
comes a  cause  of  irregularity  under  the  usual  hotel 
conditions. 


640. 


Com  Meal  Mush. 


2  quarts  of  water. 
10  ounces  of  white  corn  meal. 

1  rounded  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Use  a  flat-bottomed,  bright  iron  saucepan.  Brush 
the  inside  with  the  least  possible  amount  of  melted 
lard.  This  reduces  the  tendency  to  burn  and  les- 
sens the  waste.  Put  the  salt  in  the  water,  boil,  and 
sprinkle  the  dry  meal  in  with  one  hand  while  you 
beat  with  the  large  wire  egg-whisk  in  the  other,  till 
all  is  in  and  there  are  no  lumps  to  be  seen.  Put  on 
the  lid,  push  the  saucepan  to  the  back  of  the  range 
and  let  it  simmer  with  the  steam  shut  im  for  ihree 
hours. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


161 


Then  turn  it  out  and  keep  it  hot  in  a  bright  sink 
in  the  steam  chest. 

Where  the  mush  has  to  be  made  on  a  cook-stove, 
a  cast  pot  with  feet,  to  raise  the  bottom  an  inch  from 
the  fire,  is  best. 

You  will  have  the  same  measure  of  made  mush  as 
you  had  water  at  first ;  four  quarts  of  water  and 
twenty  ounces  of  meal  producing  one  gallon. 

Double  the  quantity  required  for  one  meal  should 
be  made  and  half  put  away  to  become  cold  to  fry. 
For  this  purpose  very  slightly  grease  a  bright  tin 
pan,  press  the  mush  evenly  into  it,  and  slightly 
brush  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  melted  lard  again. 
No  matter  how  little  the  grease,  it  prevents  the  for- 
mation of  a  crust  by  drying  on  top.  Warm  the  pan 
a  few  seconds  and  the  mush,  when  cold,  will  turn 
out  without  trouble. 

Each  quart  of  cold  mush  will  cut  into  about  ten 
blocks  or  slices  for  frying. 

641. 


Fried  mush  is  one  of  the  things,  as  fried  potatoes 
is  another,  that  has  a  telling  effect  in  giving  the  im- 
pression of  excellence  or  otherwise  of  the  hotel  table. 
That  indefinite  something  so  often  mentioned,  called 
excellence  of  cmsme,  is  made  up  of  hundreds  of  such 
trifles  as  properly  fried  mush. 

Recefntly  a  correspondent  of  a  leading  New  York 
newspaper,  and  whose  letter  in  part  was  reprinted 
in  the  Reporter,  had  occasion  to  comment  upon  a 
breakfast  at  one  of  the  famous  hotels  of  Boston,  and 
went  into  well  trained  ecstacies  over  the  simple  per- 
fection of  it  all.  "0,  the  ineffable  cuisine  T'  was  the 
exclamation,  and  of  course  it  was  a  woman  writing, 
for  men  never  think  of  original  expressions ;  one 
says  "the  cooking  was  tip  top,"  and  all  the  succeed- 
ing thousands  say  the  same  words.  Well,  there  was 
no  mention  of  fried  mush,  but  there  was  a  hint  of 
golden-hued  cutlets — breaded  cutlets — and  the  same 
conditions  and  effects  pertain  to  both  articles. 

There  was  an  intimation  of  crisp  salad,  and  deli- 
cately browned  rolls  and  perfect,  fresh  butter.  When, 
in  any  case,  you  are  curious  to  know  "upon  what 
meat  doth  this  our  Caesar  feed  ?' '  you  may  be  sure 
that  it  is  nothing  more  than  you  yourself  can  buy  in 
the  market,  and  at  the  best  of  breakfasts  the  cups 
are  not  so  liable  to  be  "filled  with  the  nectar  that 
Jupiter  sips,"  as  with  good  coffee  and  chocolate.  The 
guests  prefer  them. 

This  tempting-looking  fried  mush — and  breaded 
cutlets,  too — cannot  be  had,  as  a  rule  to  be  depend- 
ed on,  unless  lard,  good  fresh  lard,  can  be  afforded 
for  the  frying.  One  thing  essential  to  the  houses  of 
ineffable  cuisine,  is  to  be  always  excellent,  and  not 
good  for  one  observer  and  indifferent  for  the  next. 
But  cheap,  home-saved  material,  if  good  sometimes, 
always  carries  a  proviso.  Meat  drippings  and  soup 
stock  toppings  a^*^  wood  in  a  comparative  sense,  but 


are  apt  to  make  the  fries  dark  colored.  Also,  thes© 
articles  cannot  be  had  perfect  unless  cracker  meal 
can  be  afforded  to  bread  them  with.  Stale  bread 
dried  and  crushed  and  sifted  is  next  best ;  corn 
meal  for  breading  is  the  worst  of  all.  But  powdered 
bread  produces  a  reddish  brown,  and  when  dripping 
for  frying  is  used  with  it,  the  mush  often  looks  more 
like  smoked  meat.  I  do  not  wish  to  be  understood 
as  advocating  expensive  ways.  All  the  cheap  ways 
are  to  be  given  in  these  columns ;  ways  of  cooking 
without  eggs,  without  cream,  or  milk,  or  butter, 
without  baking  powder ;  and  it  will  not  have  to  be 
said  the  articles  so  made  are  as  good  as  the  best,  only 
that  they  are  good  enough  ;  but  the  opportunity  is 
here  improved  of  showing  by  one  instance  out  of 
hundreds,  how  some  tables  are  and  must  be  better 
than  the  rest,  and  why  people  cannot  have  four  dollar 
fare  for  three  dollars,  nor  three  dollar  fare  for  two. 
When  breaded  articles  like  fried  mush  are  made  so 
good  with  crushed  bread  crumbs  and  meat  fat  from 
the  roasting  pans  that  nobody  observes  any  inferi- 
ority, the  credit  is  wholly  due  to  the  skill  and  care- 
fulness of  the  cook.  Corn  meal  for  breading  has  such 
a  bad  appearance  that  it  ought  to  be  counted  out. 
People  who  like  the  taste  of  fried  meal,  and  will  have 
even  oysters  breaded  with  it,  have  to  forego  the 
neatness  and  color  that  the  other  methods  give. 

One  of  our  French  preceptors  gives  us  a  homily 
on  frying,  put  in  the  readable  form  of  a  Count  So- 
and-so  lecturing  his  cook,  who,  on  the  occasion  of  a 
dinner  to  invited  guests,  had  spoiled  a  choice  fish 
through  putting  it  into  lard  (or  oil)  not  hot  enough.  The 
gist  of  it  is,  that  if  you  put  the  breaded  article  into 
lard  not  hot  enough  to  immediately  cook  the  outside, 
the  breading  washes  off,  the  juices  of  the  fish  or  meat 
ooze  out,  and  these  cannot  be  browned  at  all  without 
being  entirely  dried  out.  With  an  article  so  largely 
made  up  of  water  as  mush,  it  is  still  more  necessary 
to  have  the  outside  coat  of  egg  and  crumbs  instantly 
set,  otherwise  it  will  merely  melt  away  and  be  lost. 

64S.     Fried  Mush,  Breaded. 


Take  the  pan  of  cold  boiled  mush,  prepared  as  al- 
ready described,  and  having  slightly  warmed  the 
bottom,  turn  it  upside  down  on  a  clean  paste-board, 
kept  for  the  purpose.  Cut  the  mush  into  blocks, 
square  or  diamond-shaped,  or  else  into  slices  or  fan- 
cy forms,  according  to  the  use  intended. 

For  every  quart  of  mush  one  egg  is  required,  to  be 
beaten  up  with  an  equal  amount  of  water. 

Roll  the  pieces  in  this,  and  then  in  the  meal  made 
by  pounding  and  sifting  crackers. 

Have  a  saucepan  half  full  of  lard  made  hot 
enough  to  hiss  loudly  when  a  drop  of  water  touches 
it,  but  yet  not  smoking.  Drop  in  the  mush  a  few 
pieces  at  a  time ;  fry  them  yellow-brown — about 
ten  minutes — then  place  them  in  a  colander  set 
in  a  pan,  and  in  a  hot  place,  to  drain  and  dry  before 
serving. 


162 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


Wonder  by  what  mischance  in  the  distribution  of 
names,  it  happened  that  we  drew  mush  from  Ger- 
man mus,  when  the  other  corn-raising  peoples  nearly 
all  drew  Latin  polenta  ? 

For  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  we  have  the  monop 
olyof  mush,  excepting  the  poor  word  itself.  That,  in- 
deed, does  not  seem  to  be  known  even  to  the  English 
as  a  household  word,  for  our  mush,  if  they  take  it 
as  an  experiment,  they  call  maize  porridge,  our  oat- 
meal mush  is  the  Scotch  oatmeal  porridge,  our 
cracked-wheat  mush  is  the  English  frumenty,  and 
mush  they  will  not  say  at  all. 

France,  which  raises  annually  thirty  million  bush- 
els of  corn,  makes  mush  and  mush  puddings,  but 
calls  mush  polenta. 

The  term  is  specially  applied  to  pudding  made  of 
the  meal  of  chestnuts,  the  same  that,  possibly,  Count 
Nesselrode  was  fond  of,  for,  improved  to  a  superlative 
degree,  we  now  find  a  pudding  of  chestnuts  called 
Nesselrode  pudding ;  but  the  Italian  polenta,  a  corn 
meal  pudding,  is  also  made  in  France,  and  polenta 
for  mush  has  a  general  application.  Portugal  raises 
fifteen  million  bushels  of  corn,  and  makes  corn  food, 
and  there  it  is  not  prosaic  mush  but  musical  polenta. 
Italy  exceeds  them  all,  raises  forty-five  million  bush- 
els,  makes  mush,  and  calls  it  polenta.  Also,  Brillat-Sa- 
varin,  enumerating  the  various  articles  contributed 
by  diflFerent  countries  to  make  a  perfect  cuisine,  says 
that  Italy  sends  polenta  liqueuers,  and  in  the  want  of 
better  knowledge,  the  supposition  is  unavoidable  that 
he  meant  Italian  corn  whisky  or  its  compounds. 
Even  our  neighbor,  Brazil,  raising  and  using  large 
amounts  of  corn  does  not  call  mush  our  tasteless 
way,  but  speaking  Portugese  no  doubt  sups  on  mel- 
lifluous polenta. 

Now  mush  does  well  enough  for  every  day  use, 
but  we  want  something  for  Sunday  and  company 
times,  and  mush,  look  at  it  any  way  you  please,  is 
positively  too  homely  and  humble  to  be  elevated  to 
any  conspicuous  position.  The  article  mush  is  wanted 
to  go  to  table  with  some  very  nice  entrees ;  it  is 
pleasant  to  the  sight  and  good  for  food,  and  can  be 
cut  handsomely  and  browned  prettily  and  set  up  or- 
namentally, and  is  good  for  car  apes  and  fleurons,  and 
croustades;  but  the  word  mush  will  never  fit  in 
gracefully  where  mush  ought  to  be;  it  will  not  har- 
monize with  the  grand  surroundings  of  notable  open- 
ing days  and  splendid  banquets  at  gilt-edged  hotels; 
it  will  hardly  be  admitted  to  the  finest  bills  of  fare, 
to  be  printed  in  gold  on  satin,  with  borders  of  Jap- 
anese mocking-birds  and  garlands  of  roses  from 
Bendemere's  Stream,  now  will  it?  But  you  cannot 
say  the  same  of  polenta,  the  diflference  is   immense. 

Polenta  is  Italian,  and  used  to  mocking-birds  and 
roses  and  all  that.  Mush  is  Cinderella,  but  polenta 
is  Cinderella  changed  to  the  princess.  If  this  differ- 
ence is  not  already  apparent,  let  us  put  it  to  the  test. 
You  cannot  imagine  mush  being  introduced  with  pro- 


priety into  any  line  of  tragic  or  heroic  verse,  but 
polenta  can  be,  and  can  hold  its  own.  Take  this  ex- 
ample : 

**0,  Romeo,  Romeo!  wherefore  art  thou  Romeo?" 
— instead  of  a  member  of  some  other  family — and  it 
will  be  seen  that  without  the  least  loss  of  dignity  our 
impassioned  Juliet  might  shout : 

"0  Polenta,  Polenta!  wherefore  art  thou  Po- 
lenta ?' '  — instead  of  bread-crumbed  trout.  With  due 
care  taken  to  give  the  true  lisp  to  the  **t"  in  polenta, 
as  it  would  be  heard  in  some  old  moss-grown  inn  in 
Granada,  under  the  shadow  of  the  Alhambra  or  any 
other  Castle  in  Spain,  the  paraphrase  possesses  a 
depth  of  plaintive  passion  that  would  set  the  mock 
heroics  which  do  so  murder  the  original  at  defiance. 
And  yet  polenta  is  mush,  but  note  the  diflference : 

"0  Mush,  Mush!  wherefore  art  thou  Mush?" — 
instead  of  Polenta. 

No  use ;  even  capitals  do  not  help  it — will  not 
ring  in  right  at  all,  but  you  immediately  think  of 
Bottom,  the  weaver,  and  Starveling,  his  mate,  and 
"0  Bottom,  Bottom  1  thou  art  translated  1" 

This  is  an  idle  fancy,  but  it  is  serious,  too,  for  we 
want  to  put  mush,  at  least  fried  mush,  on  the  finest 
bills  of  fare  that  are  gotten  up — bills  for  the  Capu- 
lets  and  Montagus,  stately  as  Romeo,  dainty  as  Ju- 
liet, if  not  so  tragical.  Some  of  the  finest  bills  of 
fare  extant  have,  for  a  dainty  dish,  "Marrow  on 
Toast."  Mush  might  well  take  the  toast's  place, 
yet,  it  is  hard  to  say  why,  "Marrow  on  Mush" 
does  not  seem  so  stylish.  "Border  of  Mush,  Filled" 
with  something,  would  not  cut  as  grand  a  figure 
among  the  entrees  as  '^Bordeur  de  Polenta  Oarnies" 
now  would  it  ? 

Speaking  of  Juliet,  isn't  it  Juliet  who  says: 
"That,  which  we  call  a  rose, 
By  any  other  name  would  smell  as  sweet?" 

Literally  taken,  millions  have  agreed  to  that, 
but  there  is  something  behind  the  literal ;  words  are 
beguiling. 

"Who  is't,"  quoth  he,  "that  there  reposes, 
Upon  yon  bank  of  summer  roses?" 

Here  the  idea  conveyed  by  reposes  on  roses  is  so 
pleasant  that  you  forget  about  the  probable  thorns 
and  go  on  reading  to  see  what  other  pleasant  things 
there  are,  and  it  is  the  same  with  eating  as  with 
reposing.  Let  a  person  spend  a  season  at  some  de- 
lightful winter  resort  and  write  home  about  the  "ex- 
quisite mush,"  and  all  the  people  written  to  would 
surely  laugh.  But  let  it  be  the  other  case,  and  let 
the  expression  be  "0,  the  divine  polenta,"  and  tlxey 
would  no  more  laugh  than  they  would  at  the  di- 
vine Piccolomini  or  the  divine  Celestina,  but  would 
go  on  reading  to  see  what  other  good  things  you 
were  having,  and  would  forget  about  the  probable 
cheapness  of  polenta,  which  would  be  the  thorn  in 
this  case.  Thus,  it  is  seen,  mush  has  a  very  bad  case, 
and  it  is  hard  to  see  what  is  to  be  done  about  it. 
Perhaps  somebody  will  help  out  this  philological 
diflftculty,  and  we  will  go  right  along  with  our  re- 
ceipts. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


163 


G43. 


Polenta  Prite. 


Fried  mush  can  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  many 
dishes  that  usually  have  toast,  or  fried  bread  or  fried 
potato  garnishes,  but  in  the  guileless  form  of  the  com- 
mon breakfast  fried  mush,  it  is  open  to  the  same  ob- 
jection that  Brillat-Savarin  brings  against  the  po- 
tato; he  says:  "I  never  take  any.  I  think  nothing 
of  the  potato  unless  as  a  stop-gap  in  times  of  great 
Bcarcity.  It  is,  to  my  taste,  most  insipid."  There- 
fore resort  should  be  had  to  the  gastronome's  ex- 
pedient in  many  similar  cases;  slice  the  mush  thin, 
cut  the  shapes  small,  and  mix  minced  cheese  with 
the  cracker  meal  to  bread  it  with.  The  proportion 
of  cheese  is  about  one  cupful,  finely  minced,  to  three 
cupfuls  of  cracker  meal,  but  it  must  depend  upon  the 
quality  of  the  cheese.  Needs  extra  care  in  frying, 
as  it  soon  acquires  a  deep  color. 


044.     Polenta,  a  1'  Italienne. 


A  cake  of  buttered  mush,  with  cheese  baked  on 
the  top. 

1  quart  of  water. 

6  ounces  of  yellow  corn  meal. 

2  ounces  of  butter. 

4  ounces  of  cheese,  minced. 

Level  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  pepper  mixed. 

Half  cupful  of  cracker  meal. 

Brush  the  inside  of  a  small  saucepan  slightly  with 
melted  butter,  and  make  mush  with  the  water  and 
meal  in  the  usual  way,  letting  it  cook  with  a  lid  on, 
in  its  own  steam,  on  the  furthest  corner  of  the  range, 
about  2  hours.  Then  stir  in  half  the  butter  and  the 
pepper  and  salt.  It  should  be  a  stiff,  well-cooked 
mush.  Spread  the  other  ounce  of  butter  on  the 
baking  pan  bottom — a  2  qt.,  bright,  shallow 
milk-pan  is  best — sift  half  the  cracker  meal 
on  that,  then  place  the  mush  by  spoonfuls  so  as  to 
smooth  it  over  at  last  without  disturbing  the  under 
crust.  When  leveled  over,  strew  on  the  minced 
cheese,  sift  rest  of  cracker  meal  on  top,  and  bake  in 
a  brisk  oven  half  an  hour,  or  till  nicely  browned  at 
top  and  bottom.  This  is  a  good  dish  for  lunch.  May 
be  served  like  macaroni  and  cheese,  or  macaroni 
cake.     Is  best  baked  en  caisse,  that  is,  in  little  paper 


When  the  cheese  furnished  is  too  dry  to  melt  in 
the  oven,  moisten  the  top  with  the  back  of  a  spoon 
dipped  in  melted  butter.  When  too  rich  and  melt- 
ing, use  less,  and  more  cracker  meal. 


045. 


To  Fry  Mush  'Without  Eggs. 


Mix  flour  and  water  together  to  make  thickening 
of  the  consistency  of  cream,  without  lumps.  Roll 
the  pieces  of  mush  in  it  instead  of  egg  and  water, 
then  in  cracker  meal,  or  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in 
the  usual  way.     A  half  cup  of  water  or  milk  to  two 


heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  makes  it.  Milk  gives 
the  better  color.  The  frying  grease  has  to  be  hotter 
and  fewer  pieces  must  be  put  in  at  once  to  make  thil 
way  nearly  as  good  as  the  other.  It  answers  very 
well,  also,  to  roll  the  mush  in  rich  milk  without 
flour. 


046. 


Mush  Sautes. 


Sautes  is  sauteed,  in  meaning,  according  to  Eng- 
lish terminations,  and  that  means  fried  in  a  common 
frying-pan  like  fried  eggs,  etc.  The  French  or  prop- 
er frying  requires  a  quantity  of  hot  fat  or  oil,  as  in- 
dicated  in  the   preceding  directions  for  fried  mush. 

The  word  Sautes  is  perpetually  appearing  in  hotel 
bills  of  fare,  but  the  people  to  whom  it  conveys  any 
meaning  are  extremely  few.  It  seems  to  be  usually 
guessed  to  mean  sauce.  As  it  is  a  technical  term,  a 
person  might  read  French  a  long  time  without  meet- 
ing with  it  elsewhere  than  at  table.  There  is  suffi- 
cient reason  for  its  use,  seeing  that  no  other  word  ex- 
presses the  same  thing  correctly. 

To  saute  mush,  cut  it  in  slices  not  over  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  flour  them  all  over.  Place  a  spoon- 
ful of  lard,  clarified  butter  or  clarified  meat  fat,  in 
the  frying  pan,  and  when  hot  put  in  two  or  three 
slices,  not  near  enough  to  touch.  Brown  it  quickly, 
and  turn  over  with  an  egg  slice.  Is  only  good  when 
fried  as  wanted  and  served  immediately. 


There  is  still  another  variety  of  mush,  and  wheth- 
er we  make  use  of  the  knowledge  or  not,  the  neces- 
sity of  at  least  being  posted  on  them  all  was  well  ex- 
emplified in  the  luck  of  a  certain  man  from  Boston. 
He  came  from  one  of  the  best  hotels  of  that  city,  and 
obtained  a  good  position  in  St.  Louis.  What  he 
claimed  to  have  been,  or  what  he  had  been  in  the 
famous  Boston  house,  is  neither  here  nor  there,  but 
it  was  evident  that  his  had  been  only  one  particular 
line  of  duty,  for,  unexcelled  in  some  things,  there 
were  other  smaller  matters  that  baffled  his  efforts, 
and  one  of  these  was  fried  mush.  He  knew  of  but 
one  kind,  and  that  was  fried  mush  balls,  which,  you 
see,  was  a  great  misfortune,  considering  that  he  was 
head  cook  of  a  large  hotel,  having  assistants  who  did 
not  think  it  best  to  do  otherwise  than  as  he  directed. 
So  mush  balls  they  made  and  made  them  good,  very 
likely,  or  else  the  demand  was  small  and  the  style 
unnoticed,  for  that  way  lasted  quite  a  while.  But 
presently  evil  days  came,  and  brought  with  them 
some  people  of  grand  import,  who  had  been  board- 
ing at  the  Hotel  Terrible,  up  the  avenue. 

They  came  in  a  huff,  and  soon  began  to  sniff,  and 
looking  about  for  inferiorities,  observed  the  fried 
mush  balls.  Then  they  pulled  them  apart,  analyzed 
them,  condemned  them.  If  there  was  anything  they 
did  love,  it  was  good  fried  mush  ;  but  these  mush 
balls  were  simply  atrocious.  They  demanded  what 
they  were  pleased  to  term  the  genuine  article.  But 
they  might  as  well  have  called  spirits  from  the  vasty 


164 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


deep,  that  would  not  come  when  they  did  call  them, 
for  neither  they  themselves  nor  anybody  else  could 
tell  what  diflference  of  process  was  required.  So  dis- 
satisfaction grew  up  on  both  sides.  It  took  an  earth- 
quake to  "roll"  the  cooks  out  of  their  kitchens  at 
Pompeii,  and  required  an  eruption  of  Vesuvius  to 
make  the  bakers  forget  their  bread  in  their  ovens  at 
Herculaneum,  but  that  was  in  grander  times  than 
these,  and  it  is  not  exceeding  the  truth  to  say  that 
this  sad  fugitive  from  the  modern  Athens  was  im- 
pelled to  sever  his  connection  through  no  greater 
reason  than  the  vacuity  of  his  perceptions  of  the  in- 
herent possibilities  of  fried  mush.  Perhaps  you 
think  that  after  he  was  gone  all  was  peace,  and  joy, 
and  love,  but  it  was  not.     His  successor's  mush  was 

orthodox  and  irreproachable,  but 

Well,  there  were  some  old  habitues  who  had  con- 
ceived an  affection  for  the  other  kind,  they  did  not 
know  what  made  the  diflference,  but  there  was  a 
solid  sweetness  in  the  other  that  the  new  kind  did 
not  possess.  The  new  cook  did  not  understand  it 
either,  for  he  only  knew  one  way ;  so  they  split  the 
slices  and  double  breaded  them,  and  tried  to  make 
believe,  and  worried  along,  and  I  think  they  are  all 
dead  by  this  time  and  out  of  their  troubles,  but  if 
ever  you  get  into  such  a  place  after  learning  the  fol- 
lowing receipt,  you  will  know  what  they  want,  bet- 
ter than  they  know  themselves. 


64T. 


Pried  Mush  Balls,  or  Pried  Pone. 


1  pound  of  corn  meal. 

1  pint  of  boiling  water. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  lard. 

1  egg.     ^  cup  cold  water.     Salt. 

Scald  the  meal  with  the  boiling  water ;  add  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients ;  flour  your  hands ;  make 
round  balls,  and  fry  in  a  saucepan  of  hot  lard.  They 
require  long  cooking. 


No  doubt  it  could  be  easily  demonstrated  that  four 
cooks  in  a  hotel  kitchen  accomplish  more  in  the  culi- 
nary line  than  do  forty  domes  ic  cooks  in  twenty  pri- 
vate houses.  No  particular  credit  to  the  hotel  cooks, 
but  it  is  owing  to  the  larger  scale  and  system  of  their 
work,  the  greater  capacities  of  their  ranges  and  uten- 
sils, the  labor-saving  conveniences,  water  and  drain- 
age arrangements,  and  the  larger  quantities  handled. 
It  takes  but  little  longerto  cook  five  pounds  than  one, 
scarcely  more  trouble  to  make  a  gallon  of  soup  for 
twenty  persons  than  a  quart  for  a  family.  But  the 
emergencies  are  many,  too.  There  has  to  be  a  drop^ 
ping  oflf  and  leaving  out  of  many  long  and  tedious 
processes.  That  which  cannot  be  made  in  short  time, 
is  most  likely  not  to  be  made  at  all,  or  else  attempted 
and  spoiled. 

There  are  printed  directions  for  numerous  articles 
apparently  desirable,  that  must  be  constantly  stirred 
or  otherwise  worked  one  or  two  hours.      To  follow 


such  in  hotel  work  is  simply  impossible,  it  would  re- 
quire a  small  army  of  assistants.  The  common  objec- 
tion is  valid — '*0,  we  can't — there  isn't  time."  The 
choice,  then,  lies  between  making  many  cheap  and 
good  preparations  in  a  half-way  manner;  giving  them 
up  entirely,  or  finding  out  the  reason  why  of  the  long 
processes  and  getting  at  the  same  results  by  shorter 
methods.  There  will  be,  it  is  hoped,  many  better  il- 
lustrations than  this  of  corn  meal  puddings,  yet  this 
will  serve,  and  may  the  sooner  establish  an  under- 
standing of  the  motive  of  many  directions  that  might 
otherwise  seem  peculiar.  It  is  commonly  said  that 
corn  meal  puddings  must  bake  three  hours  or  longer, 
but  in  a  hotel  doing  a  healthy  business  it  is  extremely 
inconvenient  to  keep  one  minor  article,  and  one  so 
liable  to  burn,  in  the  oven  for  that  length  of  time 
Fishes  and  meats  have  to  go  m  and  out,  then  vegeta- 
bles and  pastry;  three  hours  baking  involves  three 
hours  watching,  and  the  strain  upon  memory  lest  it  be 
neglected.  There  is  no  need  of  this.  The  only  rea- 
son for  long  cooking  is  to  cook  the  meal  thoroughly, 
and  that  is  better  done  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lid  on  in 
any  out-of-the-way  corner,  or  even  in  a  sink  in  the 
steam  chest.  To  bake  a  pudding  longer  than  till  the 
eggs  are  well  set,  is  generally  an  injury.  What  is  at 
a  certain  point  rich,  smooth  and  custard-like,  be- 
comes, with  longer  baking,  watery  and  inferior, 
through  the  curdling  of  the  eggs,  just  as  is  seen  to 
happen  when  a  custard  is  allowed  to  boil.  Cook  the 
materials  as  much  as  you  please  before  the  eggs  are 
put  in,  but  very  little  after. 

Several  puddings  of  corn  meal  have  already  been 
described,  the  next  is  a  plainer  and  cheaper  sort. 
Not  necessarily  the  worse  for  that — it  is  mere  matter 
of  taste. 

048.  

Plain  Baked  Indian  Pudding. 


2  quarts  of  water,  or  milk. 
12  ounces  of  corn  meal. 

2  ounces  of  butter,  or  suet. 

6  ounces  of  molasses  (a  tea  cupful). 

1  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

4  eggs.     Little  salt. 

Make  mush  with  the  meal  and  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  about  2  hours.  Then  add  the  other  ingredi- 
ents and  bake  in  a  buttered  milk  pan  nearly  an  hour. 
Makes  2h  quarts. 


049.  Common  Brown  Bread,  Yeast 
Raised. 

1  pound  of  corn  meal     about  3  cupfuls. 

1  pint  of  boiling  water — 2  cupfuls. 

^  cupful  of  black  molasses. 

1  cupful  of  cold  water. 

1  cupful  of  yeast,  or  a  yeast  cake  in  water. 

^  pound  of  either  rye  or  graham  flour. 

^  pound  of  white  flour,  a  heaping  pint. 

Salt. 

Pour  ihe  boiling  water  over  the  corn  meal    in   a 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTKY  COOK. 


166 


pan  and  mix,  throw  in  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  add 
the  molasses  and  cold  water,  then  the  yeast  and 
then  the  two  kinds  of  flour.  Line  two  sheet-iron 
brown  bread  pails  with  greased  paper,  put  in  the 
dough  and  let  rise  from  one  to  two  hours,  then 
bake  or  steam  for  five  hours.  If  steamed,  bake  the 
loaves  afterward  long  e'nough  to  form  a  slight  crust. 
A  good  sort  of  bread  is  made  as  above  with  a 
pound  of  graham  sifted  through  a  common  flour 
sieve  to  remove  the  coarse  bran,  and  the  white  flour 
omitted;  or  with  all  rye  flour  and  no  graham  or 
white.  Care  should  be  tali  en  not  to  scald  the  yeast 
by  adding  it  to  the  hot  meal  before  the  cold  water. 
When  this  kind  of  bread  is  sticky  when  sliced  it 
shows  it  was  made  up  too  wet.  When  the  loaves 
come  out  hollow  or  caved  in  ii  shows  too  much  fer- 
mentation. 


650.  English  Home-Made  Brown  Bread. 

3  pounds  of  sifted  graham  flour. 

1  quart  of  warm  water. 

^  ounce  of  compressed  yeast 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

By  sifted  graham  is  meant  flour  with  the  coarsest 
bran  taken  out.  Commence  7  or  8  hours  before 
time  to  bake.  Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  water  and 
mix  up  half  the  flour  with  it,  that  is  "setting 
sponge."  Place  the  pan  in  a  warm  corner,  to  re- 
main 4  hours.  Then  throw  in  the  salt,  mix  up  to 
stiff  dough,  scrape  out  the  pan  and  knead  smooth. 
Brush  over  the  pan  with  the  least  possible  amount 
of  melted  lard,  or  lard  and  hot  water  to  prevent 
slicking,  put  in  the  lump  of  dough  and  brush  it 
over,  and  let  rise  2  hours  more.  Then  knead,  make 
into  loaves,  rise  again  and  bake. 

Where  potato  yeast  is  used  instead  of  compressed, 
take  about  one-fourth  as  much  yeast  as  water. 

The  foregoing  is  the  kind  of  bread  fashionably 
served  with  stewed  slices  of  fish. 

651.    Rhubard  Marmalade   for  Tarts. 

Rhubarb  flavored  with  oranges  and  boiled  down 
With  sugar. 

4  cupfuls  of  rhubarb  cut  very  small. 

2  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

3  oranges—  or  orange  peel  only. 

Grate  the  yellow  rind  of  the  oranges  into  the 
saucepan  and  then  cut  up  the  insides,  carefu'ly  ex- 
cluding the  sreds  and  white  pith.  Put  in  a  spoon- 
ful or  two  of  water  to  wet  the  bottom,  then  the  sugar 
and  rhubirb,  and  simmer  at  the  back  of  the  range 
with  the  lid  on  for  an  hour.  Keep  in  a  jar.  Use 
to  fill  tarts  or  spread  between  layers  of  cake. 


652.    Marmalade  of  Canned  Apricots. 

2  cupfuls  of  sugar  to  2  cupfuls  of  apricot  pulp. 
Drain  the  fruit  from  the  syrup  by  pouring  all  into 


a  colander  set  in   a  saucepan.      Press  the    frui 
through  the  colander  into  another  vessel  and  mea- 
sure it.     Put  as  much  sugar  by  measure  into  the  ap 
ricot  juice  in  the  saucepan  and  boil  them  gently  for 
half  an  hour,   skimming  once;    then   put  in   the 
mashed  apiicot  and  simmer  down  thick. 


652  a.    Pumpkin  Butter— Pine   Quality. 

2  pounds  or  pints  of  dry  mashed  pumpkin. 

1  pound  of  sugar.     4  ounces  of  butter. 

Flavoring  either  of  shaved  lemon  rind,  cloves, 
nutmeg  or  race  ginger. 

The  pumpkin  must  be  dry,  either  baked  or  steam- 
ed. Mash  it  through  a  strainer,  mix  the  sugar  and 
butter  with  it  and  the  piece  of  ginger  bruised,  or 
thin  shaved  lemon  rind;  let  simmer  at  the  s^de  or 
set  upon  bricks  on  the  stove  for  perhaps  an  hour. 
It  becomes  thick  and  semi-transparent;  can  be  kept 
in  jars  in  a  dark  place.  Good  for  the  same  uses  as 
fruit  Jellies  and  marmalade. 


652  b.    Peach  Butter. 

8  cupfuls  of  sliced  peaches. 

4  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

2  cupfuls  of  water. 
The  peaches  need  not  be  peeled,  but  should  be 
rubbed  in  a  coarse  towel  before  slicing. 

Put  the  water  into  a  kettle  or  bright  pan;  then  the 
peaches;  shut  in  the  steam  and  let  cook  at  the  back 
of  the  stove,or  set  on  bricks,  for  an  hour  or  longer* 
Then  add  the  sug'tr,  and  do  not  leave  it,  as  it  burns 
very  easi'y,  but  keep  stirring  with  a  broad  wooden 
paddle  while  it  boils  one-half  hour  more.  Keep  in 
ajar  in  a  cool  place. 


652  c.    Caterers*  Wedding  Cake. 

2  pounds  of  su^ar. 

1^  pounds  of  butter. 

12  eggs.     2  pounds  of  flour. 

8  tablespoonfuls  of  wine.    Same  of  brandy. 

6  nutmegs  ground  or  grated. 

5  pounds  of  raisins. 

4  pounds  of  currants. 

2  pounds  of  citrons. 
Stone  the    raisin?,  wash  and  dry  tke  currants, 
cut  the  citron   email,  then  mix  all  three  together 
and  dust  them  with  a  cupful  of  flour. 

Mix  the  first  four  ingredients  together  the  same 
as  if  for  pound  cake,  add  the  liquors,  nutmeg,  and 
then  the  fruit. 

Line  the  mold  with  buttered  paper,  and  wrap 
another  paper  around  the  outside  and  tie  it  with 
twine.    Bake  the  cake  about  three  hours. 


652  d.   Layer  Fruit  Cake. 

Sheets  of  pound  cake  mixlure  baked  in  jelly  cake 
pans;  minced  raisins,  citron,  almonds  and  currants 
mixed  with  icing  and  spread  between. 


166 


THE  AMEBIOAN  PASTBY  OOOK. 


653.    Pound  Oake. 


14  or  15  ounces  of  sugar. 

12  ounces  of  butter. 

10  eggs. 

1  pound  of  flour. 

Warm  the  butter  and  sugar  together  slightly  and 
work  them  with  a  spoon  till  creamy  and  white.  Add 
the  eggs  2  at  a  time,  and  then  the  flour  in  3  or  4 
portions.  Beating  the  batter  after  all  the  ingredi- 
ents are  in  tends  to  make  the  cake  fine  grained. 
Pound  cake  should  not  be  flavored. 


Pound  cake,  doubtless  is  so  called,  because  it  can 
be  m^.de  with  a  pound  of  each  of  the  ingredients.  The 
10  egg^  weigh  a  pound.  But  so  much  butter  makes 
it  too  rich  to  be  good  eating. 


664.    Pound  Fruit  Oake. 

The  staple  every  day  sort  of  plum  cake.  The  fruit 
does  not  sink  to  the  bottom  in  this  mixture. 

14  ounces  of  sugar. 

14  ounces  of  butter. 

11  eggs. 

18  ounces  of  flour. 

Mix  the  above  the  same  as  pound  cake,  then  add 
to  it: 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  ground  spices,  cinnamon, 
mace,  and  alspice. 

1  lemon,  grated  rind,  and  juice. 

1  pound  of  raisins. 

1  pound  of  currants. 

8  ounces  of  citron. 

Half  cupful  of  whisky  (optional). 

U^e  seedless  raisins.  Nothing  is  good  made  full 
of  raisin  seeds.  Mix  the  fruit  together  and  dust  it 
with  flour  before  stirring  it  into  the  batter.  The 
cakes  require  from  1  to  1^  hourdto  bake. 

655.    Citron  Cake. 

Either  of  the  preceding  pound  cake  mixtures  with 
1  pound  of  citron  cut  in  shreds  and  added,  and  a 
little  lemon  extract. 


050.    Wedding:  Cake— Rich  Fruit  Cake. 


1  pound  of  sugar. 

IJ  pounds  of  butter. 

10  eggs. 

IJ  pounds  of  flour. 

Mix  the  above  like  pound  cake,  then  add 

IJ  pounds  of  seedless  raisins. 

IJ  pounds  of  currants. 

1  pound  of  citron. 

8  ounces  of  almonds,  blanched. 

1  tablespoonful  of  mixed  ground  spices. 

Half  pint  of  brandy. 

1  lemon,  juice  and  grated  rind. 


Bake  in  molds  lined  with  buttered  paper.  Takes 
from  1  to  2  hours  according  to  depth.  This  cake 
cannot  be  cut  while  fresh  without  crumbling,  but 
becomes  moister  and  Arm  with  a  few  days  keeping. 

657.    Richest  Fruit  Cake— Black  Cake* 


Prepare  the  fruit  first. 
2^  pounds  of  seedless  raisins. 
2^  pounds  of  clean  dry  currants. 
IJ  pounds  of  citron,  shred  fine. 
2  ounces  of   mixed  ground   spices  —  cinnamon, 
cloves,  nutmeg  and  mace. 

1  small  cupfrl  of  strong  black  coffee. 
1  small  cupful  of  reboiled  molasses. 
1  small  cupful  of  brandy. 

I  tablespoonful  of  extract  of  lemon. 

A  small  addition  of  almonds,  nuts,  candy,  or  out 
figs  can  be  made  if  wished. 
Then  mix  the  cake  batter : 
14  ounces  of  sugar. 
14  ounces  of  butter. 

II  eggs. 

18  ounces  of  flour. 

Mix  up  same  as  poundcake,  after  the  flour  is  all 
in  add  the  2  ounces  of  spice,  then  the  coffee,  molas- 
ses, brandy  and  lemon  extract.  The  batter  will  then 
be  quite  thin.  Dust  the  fruit  well  with  flour  and 
and  mix  it  in. 

Line  two  cake  molds  with  buttered  paper  and  di- 
vide the  mixture  into  them.  Set  the  molds  in  the 
middle  of  a  sheet  or  two  of  greased  paper,  gather  it 
up  around  them  and  tie  with  twine,  thus  wrapping 
the  molds  in  paper  to  shield  them  from  too  much 
heat  and  avoid  burning  the  fruit.  Bake  from  2  to 
2^  hours  in  a  slack  oven. 

658.  The  black  cake  above  should  be  at  least  2 
or  3  days  old  before  it  is  cut.  The  amount  of  cake 
batter  only  serves  to  hold  vhe  fruit  together,  but,  it 
ought  to  be  mentioned,  the  quantity  of  the  pound 
cake  mixture  in  it  may  be  doubled  and  all  the  other 
inzredients  remain  the  same  and  it  will  still  be  a 
very  rich  black  cake. 


659.  .Mountain  Cakes. 


Pound  cake  baked  on  jelly  cake  pans,  4  or  5  or 
more  of  the  sheets  piled  on  each  other  with  cake  icing 
spread  between,  and  on  the  top.  Decorate  the  top 
with  the  kernels  of  hickory  nuts. 


660.    Drop  Cakes. 


Pound  cake  mixture,  or  butter  sponge  cake  mix* 
ture  with  a  handful  or  two  of  flour  added  and  a  little 
baking  powder  placed  by  spoonfuls  on  greased  baking 
pans  make  the  cone  shaped  drop  cakes  of  the  shops. 
A  strip  of  citron,  a  few  currants  or  granulated  sugar 
on  top  make  the  variations. 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


167 


661.    Lafayette  Oake, 


Two  sheets  of  pound  cake  baked  in  two  shallow 
baking  pans.  Spread  one  with  jelly,  place  the  other 
on  top  and  ice  it  over.  Mark  it  in  oblongs  before 
the  icing  gets  quite  dry. 


662.    Small  Cream  Cakes. 

Drop  the  butter  sponge  cake  mixture  on  greased 
baking  pans.  Let  the  cakes  be  about  the  size  of 
silver  dollars.  They  will  run  out  thin.  Dredge 
sugar  on  top  with  a  dredger  Bake  light.  Spread 
pastry  cream  between  two  placed  together. 


663.    Sugar  Oake  Made  Without  Eggs- 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 
4  ounces  of  butter. 

1  large  coffee  cupful  of  milk. 
Nutmeg  to  flavor,  or  carraway  seeds. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder, 
1^  pounds  of  flour. 

Mix  up  like  biscuit,  the  butter  melted  and  added 
to  the  milk  with  the  sugar,  Roll  out  and  bake  in  a 
shallow  pan.    Brush  over  with  milk  before  baking. 


664.    Cookies,  Sugar  Cakes.    Best. 

1  pound  of  sugar, 

1  pound  of  butter, 

12  eggs. 

3  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Flour  to  make  soft  dough— 3  pounds. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  the  same  as 
for  pound  oake.  Beat  the  eggs  and  mix  them  in, 
then  the  powder,  add  some  flavoripg,  then  flour.  Let 
the  dough,  after  it  has  been  worked  smooth,  stand  a 
few  minutes  before  rolling  it  out.  Sift  sugar  over 
the  sheet  of  dough  before  cutting  out  the  cakes. 


665.    Cookies,  Common. 

1  pound  of  sugar, 
8  ounces  of  butter. 
6  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  milk. 

4  teaeponfuls  of  baking  powder. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 


666.    Hard  Cookies  or  Sweet  Crackers. 


To  cut  in  fancy  shapes.    They  do  not  spread  or 
lose  form. 
12  ounces  of  powdered  sugar. 
6  ounces  of  butter. 
6  eggs. 
Half  cupful  of  milk, 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 

2  pounds  of  flour. 

Iftmon  or  cinnamon  extract  to  flavor. 


067. 


White  Coooanut  Cookies  and 
Small  Cakes 


Make  the  oake  mixture  number  15  and  add  gi>atetj 
or  desiccated  coooanut  to  it.  Roll  out  with  a  IUUa 
more  flour  and  cut  small  cookies.  Sugar  over  the 
tops  before  baking  The  same  may  also  be  baked 
in  muffin  rings  and  iced  on  top  with  cocoanut  mixed 
in  the  icing. 


668.    German  Cookies. 


Make  cookies  of  either  of  the  mixtures  and  after 
placing  in  pans  egg  them  over  with  a  brush  and 
sprinkle  on  them  chopped  almonds  mixed  with 
gravel  sugar.  Bake  light  colored.  Gravel  sugar  is 
the  small  lumps  from  crushed  sugar  sifted  through 
a  colander. 


669,    Jumbles. 

Are  cookies  in  ring  shapes,  of  various  degrees  of 
richness  of  mixture.  Commonly  they  are  only  cut 
in  rings  with  a  ring  cutter;  properly  they  should  be 
made  with  a  sack  and  tube. 

•  Take  a  lady-finger  tube  and  file  the  edge  into  saw 
teeth  and  press  out  the  jumble  dough  in  a  ribbed 
cord,  of  which  form  rings  on  the  baking  pans.  The 
cooky  mixtures  may  be  used,  or  this : 

1  pound  of  sugar. 
12  ounces  of  butter. 

8  eggs.    Flavor  of  lemon  or  orange. 

2  pounds  or  little  less  of  flour. 
No  powder. 


070.    Ginger  Snaps,  Rich  Kind. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  white  sugar. 


1  to  2  ounces  of  ground  ginger. 

1  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder, 

1^  pounds  of  flour. 

Make  same  way  as  cookies.  Sift  granulated  sugar 
over  the  sheet  of  dough  and  run  the  rolling  pin 
over  to  make  it  adhere  before  cutting  out  the  cakes. 


071.    Grantham  Ginger  Snaps,  English. 

12  ounces  of  white  sugar. 
8  ounces  of  blotter. 
8  eggs. 

1  teacupful  of  milk— small. 

2  ounces  of  ground  ginger. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
1^  pounds  of  flour. 

Mix  up  in  the  usual  way  for  cookies.  Sift  sugar 
over  before  cutting  out  the  cakes. 

It  is  generally  best  to  make  the  dough  for  all  kinds 
of  cookies  and  sugar  cake  as  soft  as  it  can  possibly 
be  rolled  out.    Diff^erent  persons  make  very  differen* 


X08 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


cakes  of  these  sorts  from  the  same  receipts,  and  the 
common  fault  is  too  much  flour  in  the  dough.  The 
baking  powder  too  is  responsible  for  some  of  the 
changes.  With  too  much  powder  the  cakes  run 
into  each  other  and  lose  the  good  round  shape  they 
ought  to  baye. 

672.    Brown  Ginger  Cookies,  Good 
Common. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 
8  ounces  of  sugar, 
8  ounces  of  black  molasses. 
4  eggs. 

2  ounces  of  ground  ginger. 
Half  cupful  of  milk  or  water. 
4  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
2  pounds  of  flour,  or  enough  to  make  soft  dough 
Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  they  are  printed 
in.    Boll  out  and  cut  with  a  small  cutter. 


673.    Ginger  Nuts  without  Bgga. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  sugar.  • 

8  ounces  of  molasses. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  ginger. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Flour  to  make  soft  dough. 

Warm  the  butter,  sugar  and  molasses  together  and 
mix  them  well,  when  nearly  cold  again  add  the  gin- 
ger, powder  and  flour.  Roll  pieces  of  the  dough  in 
long  thin  rolls  and  cut  off  in  pieces  large  as  cherries. 
Place  on  buttered  pans  with  plenty  of  room  between. 
Bake  light. 


674.    Sugar  Cakes  without  Eggs. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

8  ounces  of  sugar. 

8  ounces  of  water — a  cupful. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

1^  pounds  of  flour  to  mix,  and  more  to  roll  out. 
Mix  in  the  order  they  are  printed.  The  softer  the 
dough  can  be  handled  the  better  the  cakes  will  be. 
Sift  sugar  over  before  cutting  out. 


675.    Brandy  Snaps 


1  pound  of  flour. 
8  ounces  of  butter. 
8  ounces  of  sugir. 

2  ounces  of  ground  ginger. 
Lemon  extract  to  flavor. 

1  teaepoonful  of  soda — rounded  measure. 

1^  pounds  of  light  molasses. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  as  in  making  short 
paste,  and  add  the  ginger.  Make  a  hole  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  flour  and  put  in  the  sugar,  molasses  and 
extract ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  a  spoonful  of  water 


and  add  it  to  the  rest.     Stir  all  together,  drawing 
in  the  flour  gradually  while  stirring. 

Drop  this  batter  with  a  teaspoon  on  baking  pans 
— they  need  not  be  greased — and  bake  in  a  slack 
oven.  The  snaps  run  out  flat  and  thin.  Take  them 
off  before  they  get  cold  and-  bend  them  to  round  or 
tubular  shape  on  a  new  broom  handle. 


676.    Soft  Ginger  Nuts. 

Make  the  dough  as  for  brandy  snaps,  and  add  to 
it  8  ounces  more  flour.  Roll  it  out  to  a  thick  sheet 
and  cut  out  with  a  small  cutter. 

681.    How  to  Make  Stock  Yeast. 


There  are  two  parts  to  this  process,  requiring 
about  5  days  time  before  new  ferment  can  be  made 
from  the  new  stock.  But  as  stock  will  keep  at 
least  a  month  and  much  longer  if  bottled  and  kept 
in  the  ice-house,  the  trouble  does  not  recur  very 
often.    The  first  part  is: 


682. 


Bottle  Yeast.     The  Beginning   of 
Yeast. 


Get  a  strong  quart  bottle,  an  ale  or  champagne 
bottle  will  da.  Make  some  strong  hop  tea  by  boil- 
ing a  large  handful  of  hops  in  a  quart  of  water, 
cool  it  and  strain  it  into  the  bottle,  squeezing  the 
hops  dry  to  get  the  full  strength.  The  bottle  must 
only  be  two  thirds  full.  Then  put  into  the  bottle,  be- 
sides, two  handfuls  of  ground  malt  and  one  handful 
of  sugar.  Shake  up,  cork,  and  tie  the  cork  down 
with  twine,  like  ginger-pop.  Set  the  bottle  on  a 
warm  shelf  in  a  corner  of  the  kitchen  where  it  will 
not  be  disturbed  and  will  not  be  in  danger  of  getting 
too  warm  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  Let  it  stand  there 
from  44  to  48  hours,  by  which  time  it  will  be  yeast 
on  a  small  scale,  ready  to  start  fermentation  in  the 
stock  itself. 


683.     Second  Part.    Stock  Yeast. 


The  bottle  having  stood  long  enough — or  two 
days  after  corking  it  down — make  about  2  gallons 
of  hop  tea  by  putting  a  pail  of  water  into  a  kettle 
with  a  lot  of  hops — nearly  a  pound — and  boiling 
them  about  an  hour  with  a  lid  on  the  kettle.  Put  2 
pounds  of  flour  into  a  large  jar,  pan,  or  keg  and 
strain  some  of  the  boiling  hop  water  into  it — enough 
to  wet  and  scald  the  flour  thoroughly  when  stirred 
up ;  when  there  are  no  more  lumps  in  the  flour 
strain  in  all  the  rest  of  the  hop  water  and  cool  it 
with  a  piece  of  ice.  After  that  put  in  a  quart  of 
coarse  ground  malt  and  J  pound  of  suf^ar.  When 
this  mixture  is  no  more  than  milk  warm,  take  the 
bottle  yeast,  hold  the  neck  downwards  and  o^efuUy 
draw  the  cork — which  will  come  out  like  the  cork 


THE  AMBBICAN  PASTRY  COOK, 


169 


from  a  bottle  of  champagne — and  mix  the  two 
together.  Set  the  jar  or  keg  containing  the 
stock  in  a  warm  corner  where  it  may  ferment 
undisturbed,  and  in  a  day  and  a  half  or  two  days 
afterwards  the  stock  will  be  ready  to  start 
ferment  with,  as  has  already  been  directed  at 
number  512. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  make  the  bottle  yeast 
every  time  that  stock  is  made,  for  new  stock  may 
be  started  with  some  of  the  old  stock  remaining, 
but  whenever  the  ferment  seems  weak  and  slow, 
and  whenever  the  bread  begins  to  turn  sour  be- 
fore it  is  light,  then  new  stock  should  be  started 
from  the  very  foundation,  in  the  bottle. 

It  may  be  observed  that  the  above  method 
renders  a  person  who  can  get  the  raw  materials 
quite  independent  of  every  other  person's  yeast 
and  of  an  J  other  kind  of  yeast  to  start  with  He 
makes  his  own  from  the  very  first  germ. 


684.    Genuine  Vienna  Rolls. 

4  pounds  of  flour. 

1  quart  of  milk. 

1  ounce   of  German  compressed  yeast. 

1  ounce  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 

Make  the  milk  lukewarm  and  dissolve  the  yeast 
in  it.  Set  sponge  at  9  in  the  morning,  at  noon  add 
the  salt  and  sugar  and  make  up  stiff  dough.  Let 
rise  till  about  4.  Then  work  the  dough  well  on  the 
table  by  pressing  out  and  folding  over. 

Roll  out  the  dough  in  one  large  sheet  as  thin  as 
you  can,  which  will  be  about  the  thinness  of  a  din- 
ner plate  edge  ;  then  measuring  with  your  hand  cut 
the  dough  into  strips  or  bands  as  wide  across  as  your 
hand  is  long.  Cut  these  again  into  triangular  pieces 
for  rolls,  not  equal  sided  but  long  and  narrow  tri- 
angles. Roll  these  triangular  pieces  up,  beginning 
at  the  broad  bottom  end,  and  the  point  will  come  up 
in  the  middle,  and  there  will  be  a  spiral  mark 
aiound  from  end  to  end. 

Give  each  roll  a  few  turns  under  the  hands  to 
smooth  it  and  place  it  on  the  baking  pan  in  the  form 
of  a  crescent— ju3t  the  shape  and  size  of  the  new 
moon.  Brush  over  with  water.  Let  rise  in  the 
pans  about  half  an  hour  and  bake  about  ten  minutes 


Genuine  Vienna  Rolls 


Some  time  ago  the  writer  saw  a  Vienna  Model 
Bakery — so  called— begin  and  flourish  awhile,  and 
at  last  go  into  bankruptcy  in  an  attempt  to  introduce 
and  make  the  above  described  rolls  popular  in  a 
community  that  had  but  little  appreciation  of  their 
excellence.  For  one  thing  it  cost  the  firm  $2.50  per 
week  for  compressed  yeast  alone,  to  arrive  on  oer. 
tain  days  by  express,  when  they  might  have  made 
the  common  kind  at  a  scarcely  appreciable  cost. 

The  lesson  is:  German  bread  for  the  Germans* 
but  Vienna  rolls  cannot  be  forced  into  the  position 
of  favoritism  that  is  held  by  Parker  House  or  Albany 
rolls,  or  split  rolls  by  any  other  name.  Make  the 
Vienna  shape,  however,  out  of  French  roll  dough. 
Brush  over  the  sheet  of  dough  with  a  little  melted 
butter,  then  roll  up  the  rolls,  and  after  baking  they 
they  can  be  unrolled,  and  the  people  who  eat  will 
admire  them. 


685,    Baker's  Apple  Oake. 


A  sheet  of  the  coffee  cake  dough  (No.  540)  covered 
with  apples  in  slices  stuck  In  edgewise  and,  after  a 
little  time  allowed  for  it  to  rise,  baked  in  a  slack 
oven.  Plain  bread  or  roll  dough  is  sometimes  made 
to  serve  the  purpose  at  the  bakeries,  and  the  apples 
are  basted  while  baking  with  syrup  and  dredged 
with  cinnamon. 

A  Plea  for  the  Pastry  Cook. 

'*  In  the  time  of  Charles  IX.  of  France,  pastry 
cooks  made  such  advance  that  the  products  of  their 
industry  held  an  honorable  place  in  every  feast ;  and 
they  formed  a  considerable  corporation,  for  we  find 
that  prince  investing  it  with  certain  privileges.*'  So 
says  our  most  respected  advocate  and  authority,  and 
continues:  "It  is  easy  to  entertain  a  large  number 
of  healthy  appetites;  with  plenty  of  meat,  venison, 
game,  and  some  large  pieces  of  fish,  a  feast  for  sixty 
is  soon  ready.  But  to  please  mouths  that  only  open 
in  affectation,  to  tempt  women  full  of  fancies,  to 
excite  stomachs  of  papier  mache^  or  rouse  an  appe- 
tite which  is  ever  flickering  in  the  socket,  would 
require  more  genius,  insight,  and  labor  than  the  res- 
olution of  one  of  the  problems  of  the  Geometry  of 
the  Infinite.'* 

The  pastry  cook's  occupation  ought  at  least  to 
rank  equal  to  the  meat  cook's  in  the  organization  of 
the  working  force  of  a  hotel.  If  it  at  present  is 
held  subordinate  the  reason  may  be  found  in  the 
binding  force  of  inherited  customs;  for  the  meat 
cook's  office  has  existed  ever  since  men  first  began 
to  slay  animals  and  toast  their  flesh  over  the  camp 
fire  for  food,  while  the  pastry  cook's  is  a  later  out- 
growth of  the  highest  civilization.  But  having  the 
more  delicate  and  difficult  tasks  to  perform  it  de- 
mands for  their  perfect  execution  a  rarer  kind  of 
alent,    Almosf  any  person  of  ordinary  shrewdnesf 


170 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTBY  COOK. 


and  apitude  casually  thrown  for  awhile  amongst  the 
cooks  in  a  hotel  may  set  up  with  a  fair  cbanco  of 
succeeding  as  a  meat  cook  himself  in  the  vastly  pre- 
ponderating number  of  places  where  cheapness  has 
to  be  the  first  consideration,  and  from  that  may  eas- 
ily reach  the  more  lucrative  positions ;  but  first-class 
pastry-cooks,  cannot  be  made  in  that  way,  for  pas- 
try cooking,  including  bread  making  and  baking,  is 
a  more  exact  trade,  a  matter  depending  upon  weights 
and  measures  and  a  particular  manipulations,  not  to 
be  trusted  to  guess  work  without  long  previous 
practice.  The  products  of  the  meat  cook's  labor  are 
set  before  people  prepared  for  their  enjoyment  with 
appetites  sharpened  by  hunger.  The  cook,  and  the 
steward  of  practiced  taste  may  discern  in  the  soup 
a  slight  burnt  or  smoky  or  unpleasant  flavor,  yet 
the  entire  company  will  probably  parlake  of  it  with 
enjoyment  without  perceiving  any  thing  amiss ;  but 
after  the  keen  appetites  have  been  appeased  let 
something  of  the  pastry  cook's  be  sent  to  table  burd- 
ened with  a  similar  inferiority  and  it  will  be  imme- 
diately and  almost  unanimously  rejected.  It  used  to 
be  the  frequent  remark  of  a  very  successful  hotel- 
keeper,  that  "people  take  more  notice  of  the  pastry 
than  of  any  other  part  of  the  dinner."  The  charac* 
ter  of  the  table  is  more  apt  to  be  judged  by  the 
quality  of  the  products  of  the  pastry  cook's  labor, 
including  the  warm  breads,  waffles,  and  cakes,  than 
by  anything  else,  and  if  the  working  man  or  woman 
of  the  culinary  department  is  possessed  of  taste  and 
perception  in  a  superior  degree  their  quality  can  no- 
where be  80  well  displayed  as  in  the  last  course  of 
a  dinner  upon  the  dainty  dishes  that  are  set  about  to 
beir  comparsion  and  to  hold  their  place  if  they  may 
among  the  rich  fruits  and  nuts,  the  wines,  the  flowers 
of  the  dessert. 

But  if  the  pastry  cook's  art  may  claim  considera- 
tion because  of  its  capacity  for  contributing  to  what 
is  delicate,  elegant,  and  ornate,  it  has  even  greater 
claims  on  the  score  of  usefulness.  Up  and  down  the 
crowded  streets  of  one  of  the  largest  and  busiest  cities 
— Chicag:)to-wIt — at  frequent  intervals  may  be  found 
restaurants  with  all  sorts  of  meats,  fish  and  fowls 
displayed  with  their  garnlshings  in  the  most  tempt- 
ing manner  possible ;  and  between  them  and  twic3 
as  frequent  are  the  beer  halls  with  their  lunch  dis- 
played, more  or  less  free,  of  boiled  meat,  tripe, 
chopped  cvbbage  and  rye  bread,  the  indications 
seeeming  to  be  that  all  the  men  are  eaters  only  of 
meat  and  its  "trimmings."  But  not  sa.  There  are 
other  places  where  men  lunch  and  dine.    There  are 


bakeries  in  Chicago  which  are  in  reality  large  facto- 
ries, as  extensive  as  seme  pork  packing  establish- 
ments, and  these  making  specialties  of  pies,  bread, 
cakes,  or  crackers  seem — if  we  may  be  allowed  to 
make  a  rough  guess — to  supply  about  one-fourth  of 
the  entire  city.  These  large  bakeries  have  shops  for 
retailing,  large  double  stores  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
converted  into  lunch  houses  with  long  counters  and 
rows  of  stools,  and  waiters,  clerks  and  cashiers, 
and  they  are  crowded  during  about  two  hours 
of  each  meal  time  about  six  hours  of  the  day, 
with  men  taking  a  meal  of  bread  cakes,  pies  and  cof- 
fee, tea,  or  milk.  Nothing  is  cooked  there  except  the 
coffee  made  by  steam  heat.  They  serve  French  split 
rolls  and  round  graham  rolls  with  butter,  three  for 
five  centSj  in  little  baskets  ;  coffee-cakes  made  up  in 
twists  like  one  of  our  cuts,  and  brushed  over  with 
syrup,  two  for  five  cents ;  yellow  rusks  in  long  shape 
like  rolls;  Boston  brown  bread,  very  brown  and 
baked  in  pails,  or  deep  molds  same  shape.  Apple 
cake  they  have,  and  "stollen,"  and  "Lincoln  pie," 
here  called  *' Washington  pie;"  small  sponge  cakes 
baked  in  pans  the  length  of  a  finger,  also  lady- 
fingers,  one  cent  apiece;  milk  bread  baked  in  long 
tin  molds,  plum  cake,  baked  "apple  dumplings," 
and  pies;  homemade  pies,  with  pumpkin  and 
custard  thick,  even  up  to  the  brim,  lemon  pie  with 
meringue  on  top,  mince  and  apple. 

Our  interest  in  this  matter  is  that  of  a  theorist 
liking  to  find  his  beliefs  verified.  Meat  is  the  most 
expensive  and  wasteful  article  of  hotel  provision. 
We  have  found  in  hotels  that  in  proportion  as  the 
breads  and  other  articles  included  under  the  head  of 
pastries  rose  in  excellence  the  demand  upon  the 
meats  was  lessened,  to  the  benefit,  probably,  of  all 
concerned.  The  products  of  these  large  city  baker- 
ies are  good  with  the  uniform  excellence  that  might 
be  expected  of  factory  work  and  because  they  are  good 
the  sales  are  immense.  The  lunch  or  meal  of  this 
kind  costs  but  from  ten  to  thirty  cents,  yet  its 
cheapness  is  not  its  only  recommendation,  for  the 
crowds  of  customers  are  not  of  the  tramping  class ; 
they  are  the  foremen  and  workmen  of  the  huge  ware- 
houses near  by,  the  compositors,  machinists,  clerks, 
salesmen,  tradesmen  and  professional  men  who  prac- 
tice the  dietetic  moralities.  Good  bread,  good  butter, 
and  good  coffee — has  it  not  almost  passed  into  a  pro- 
verb that  these  are  the  first  requisites  to  an  excellent 
table?  and  taking  the  country  over,  away  from  the 
very  large  bakeries  and  the  very  best  hotels  are  there 
any  articles  seldomer  to  be  found? 


THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK. 


171 


685. 


Fairy  Butter. 


The  yolkf  of  4  hard  boiled  eggs. 

1  teacupful  of  the  best  butter. 

3  heaping  tablespoonfuls  powdered  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  orange  flower  water. 

Either  grate  the  yolks  or  pound  and  rub  them 
smooth  in  a  bowl,  mix  the  softened  butter  with  them 
and  the  sugar  and  flavoring.  Set  the  mixture  where 
it  will  get  cold,  and  afterward  rub  it  through  a 
sieve.     It  looks  something  like  vermicelli. 

Pile  the  fairy  butter  lightly  in  the  middle  of  a  cake 
dish,  cut  the  snow  cake  in  slices  and  lay  around. 
They  are  to  be  eaten  together  like  bread  and  butter. 


686. 


Apple  Souffle. 


On  account  of  the  scarcity  of  culinary  terms,  the 
word  soufflle  has  to  stand  for  a  great  number  of 
light  articles  that  may  have  very  little  resemblance 
to  each  other.  This  consists  of  a  border  of  dry 
stewed  apple  raised  in  a  large  dish  or  an  ice  cream 
saucer,  as  the  case  may  be,  the  hollow  middle  filled 
with  boiled  custard  and  whipped  white  of  egg  and 
sugar,  like  the  frosting  on  lemon  pies,  piled  on  top. 
It  need  not  be  baked,  but  the  top  may  be  browned 
by  holding  a  red  hot  shovel  over  it  on  the  shelf  in 
the  oven.     Served  cold. 

681.      Egrg  Lemonade  for  Fifty. 

8  quarts  of  water — a  tin  milk  pail  full. 

8  pounds  of  sugar — 6  or  7  cupfuls. 

2  dozen  lemons. 

2  oranges. 

8  or  10  whites  of  eggs. 

Shaved  or  broken  ice. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  8  or  10  of  the  lemons  and  the 
oranges  into  a  large  bowl,  using  a  tin  grater,  and  take 
less  or  more,  according  to  the  size  and  degree  of 
ripeness  or  greenness  of  the  fruit.  Scrape  off  the 
grated  rind  that  adheres.  Put  a  little  sugar  in  the 
bowl,  and  rub  the  zest  and  sugar  together  with  the 
back  of  a  spoon.  Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all,  add 
W  sugar  and  some  water  and  then  the  whites  of 
eggs,  and  beat  the  mixture  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved ; 
put  in  water  to  make  the  specified  amount  and 
strain  the  lemonade  into  another  vessel  containing 
ice. 

When  to  be  served  fill  a  glass  three  parts  full,  in- 
vert another  on  top,  the  rims  close  together,  and 
shake  up  to  make  the  foam. 


688. 


Plain  Lemonade. 


Three  or  four  lemons,  according  to  size,  and  a 
small  cup  of  sugar  to  a  quart  of  water.  Slice  th^ 
lemons  into  the  water  beforehand,  and  let  stand. 
Put  shaved  ice  in  the  glasses  before  filling. 


Clear  lemonade  can  be  obtained  by  filtering  it, 
when  made,  through  blotting  paper  folded  to  fit  in 
a  glass  funnel. 


080. 


Catawaba  Oup. 


To  each  bottle  of  dry  catawba  allow  two  bottles 
of  soda  water  and  a  quarter  pint  of  curacoa,  mix  in 
a  pitcher,  and  add  ice  abundantly.  If  not  conveni- 
ent to  get  bottled  soda,  use  water  and  sugar  or 
lemonade  to  mix  with  the  wine  and  liqueur. 

690.        Tea  for  a  Large  Party. 

To  make  what  tea-drinkers  call  a  real  good  cup  of 
tea  take  nearly  a  teaspoonful  of  green  tea  for  each 
cup,  or  4  teaspoonfuls  to  5  cups  of  water,  the  leaves 
absorbing  1  cup.  But  then  there  is  a  second  draw- 
ing that  brings  this  out. 

Four  ounces  of  tea  contain  28  teaspoonfuls  or  2 
cupfuls,  rounded  np.  Using  mixed  tea,  and  allow- 
ing time  to  draw  to  draw  2  cupfuls  of  tea  is  sufficient 
to  put  into  40  cups  of  water,  or  a  quarter-pound  of 
tea  to  2^  gallons  of  water,  which  is  the  same  thing 
in  other  words. 

The  best  way  to  make  tea  for  a  number  is  to  have 
the  water  boiling  in  an  urn  and  put  the  tea  in  a  box 
made  of  perforated  tin  and  drop  it  into  the  water, 
which  must  then  be  stopped  from  boiling. 


691. 


White  Ooflfee. 


Is  made  with  coffee  that,  instead  of  being  browned, 
is  only  baked  to  a  slight  yellow  color  and  is  not 
ground,  or  at  most  the  berries  are  only  bruised,  and 
is  made  with  one-half  milk  and  one-half  water.  It 
requires  twice  as  much  coffee  as  the  ordinary. 

For  8  cups  t  ke : 

2  cupfuls  of  light  baked  coffee  berries. 

4  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 

5  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk. 

The  berries  may  have  been  parched  before,  but 
when  wanted  heat  them  over  again  and  throw  them 
hot  into  the  boiling  water.  Close  the  lid  and  let 
stand  to  draw  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  the  boiling 
milk  through  a  strainer. 

When  the  milk  is  first  set  on  to  boil,  put  in  a 
tablespoonfal  or  two  of  sugar  to  prevent  burning  at 
the  bottom.  Serve  sugar  with  the  coffee  as  usual, 
and,  if  for  a  party,  a  spoonful  of  whipped  cream  in 
each  cup.  | 


69Ia. 


Chocolate. 


1  quart  of  milk  and  water. 

4  ounce  of  chocolate. 

Boil  the  milk  and  water  in  a  small,  bright  sauce- 
pan. Scrape  down  an  ounce  as  marked  on  the  half 
pound  cakes  of  common  chocolate,  throw  it  in  and 
beat  with  a  wire  egg  whisk  about  one  minute,  or  till 
the  chocolate  is  all  dissolved. 


172 


THE  AMERICAN   COOK. 


Silver  Plated  Skewers  or  Atelets.— See  No.  783, 


Sabatier  Cooks'  Knives.— All  sizes. 


Scollop  Knife.— For  potatoes  and  other  Vegetables.     See  No.  963. 


A  la  Mode  Lard- 
ing^ Needle.— 
See  No.  1234. 


Tin     Vegetable 
Cutters.- Many 

Parisienne  and  Nantaise  Potato  Spoons.— For  scooping  balls,  olives,  patterns   and 

berries,  etc.,  out  of  potatoes  and  beets.    See  Nos.  953  and  730.  sizes,   also,  for 

cutting  custard 
shapes  for  galan- 
tine ornaments. 


Hotel  Saucepans.— Both  copper  and  tinned  iron. 


THE 


^HOTEL^-BOOK^ 


OF 


Salads  and  Cold  Dishes. 

SALAD  bRESSINGS,  WITH  AND  WITHOUT  OIL;    SALADS  OF  ALL  KINDS, 

HOW  TO  MAKE  AND  HOW  TO  SERVE  THEM;    BONED 

FOWLS,  GALANTINES,  ASPICS,  ETC,  ETC. 

BEING  A  PART  OF  THE 

'^OvEN  AND  Range"  Series. 


BY 


JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


1804. 


THE  AMEBIOAN  COOK. 


176 


THE  HOTEL  BOOK  OP  SALADS. 

*  And  light  words  spoken 
Only  for  something  to  say.** 
Whatever  other  matters  may  have  been  already 
writtea  to  death  there  is,  it  is  plain  to  see,  a  great 
dearth  of  writers  on  the  subject  of  salads,  at  least  in 
our  own  langung";  it  seems  as  if  this  had  been  re- 
garded as  a  foreigQ  affair  and  not  of  home  interest 
at  all.  The  things,  consequently,  that  never  have 
been  written  but  ought  to  be  would,  if  written,  fill  a 
very  much  larger  volume  than  this  is  intended  to 
be,  and  lest  our  title  seem  to  promise  too  much  it 
may  be  proper  to  say  we  are  not  going  to  try  to  take 
them  all  in.  However,  in  the  way  of  practical  salad 
making,  we  will  try  to  crowd  into  small  space 
nearly  everything  that  can  be  pressed  into  the  hotel 
service,  the  herbs  and  fruits  that  are  taken  like  some 
people's  statements,  cum  grano  salts,  with  many  an- 
other 

•  '—rich  herbaceous  treat 
Might  tempt  a  dying  anchorite  to  eat. " 

and  enough  cf  tbe  ornamental  f^r  extra  occasions. 
The  daily  bill  of  fare  writer,  whatever  other  ofl&ce 
mny  be  his,  who,  tired  of  repeating  the  three  or  four 
stock  salads,  si's  running  his  fingers  through  his 
hair  and  w  mdering  what  in  the  nstjoa  Le  shall 
write  next,  will  very  likely  find  in  the  following 
lists  just  the  suggestion  he  wants,  for  the  very  good 
reason  that  they  have  been  prepared  and  adapted 
under  extremely  similar  circumstances.  We  wish 
to  offer  a  set  of  instructions  valuable  to  hotel  econo- 
mists, to  those  who  take  pride  in  their  table,  per 
hips  to  hotel  working  boys  and  girls  who  have  their 
living  to  make,  for  common  labor  is  plenty  and 
abject  enough;  it  is  tkill  that  wins  the  good  posi- 
tions and  good  pay,  but  skill  that  can  adapt  itself, 
skill  to  do  that  which  everyone  else  in  the  house 
may  be  deficient  in,  even  sometimes  to  make  brick 
wiihout  straw,  to  make  salad  sans  oil.  Bans  celery, 
sans  chicken,  sans  everything  that  most  people  deem 
essential. 

But  when  it  com^s  to  the  salad-making  of  the 
veritable  gistronomer,  tbe  scientific  epicure,  the 
avowed  dinuer  giving  and  dinner  taiiiog  bon  vivant, 
it  is  time  f.r  us  hotel  workers  to  lay  down  the  pen 
end  shut  up — the  book.  Not  that  we  think  the  best 
if  our  tr^de  salids  inferior,  but  because  he  is  sure 
that  his  are  and  must  be  incomparably  above  (hem. 


together   a   sufficient    variety  of  materials  for  our 
ea' ad-making,  let  us  to  work. 

G92,   Mayonaise  Salad  Dressinsf. 


*' Three  times  the  spoon  with  oil  of  Lucca  crow% 

And  once  with  vinegar  procured  from  town." 

3  or  4  raw  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  teacupful  of  olive  oil. 

About  half  as  much  vinegar. 

A  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Drop  the  yolks  into  a  bowl,  soup  plate,  or  deep, 
bright  saucepan,  add  about  as  much  oil  and  stir 
them  together  with  a  wooden  spoon — or  any  other 
kind  of  a  spoon — for  a  minute  or  two,  then  com- 
mence beating  and  add  oil  a  tablespoonful  at  a  time. 
After  five  minutes  stirring  and  beating,  the  oil  being 
more  than  half  in,  throw  in  the  salt  and  begin  ad- 
ding the  vinigar  also  by  spoonfuls.  On  the  addition 
of  the  salt  the  mayonaise  will  be  very  likely  to 
thicken  up  at  once  and  the  vinegar  is  required  to 
reduce  it,  as  well  as  for  flavor. 

The  above  is  the  way  of  making  plain,  straight- 
forward mayonaise  that  is  practiced  by  cooks  and 
their  assistants  daily  all  over  the  country,  and  being 
such  a  very  simple  operation  there  is  no  wonder  if 
they  do  not  see  the  reason  for  making  so  much  ado 
about  it.  It  takes  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  to  bring  it 
to  the  proper  consistence.  There  might  be  diflficulty 
ifthe  ingredients  were  warm;  as  a  matter  of  habit 
cooks  always  keep  the  oil  in  a  cold  place.  In  hot 
weather  set  the  bowl  in  ice  water.  Mayonaise  of 
the  required  thickness  cannot  probably  be  made 
with  a  smaller  proportion  of  oil,  but  the  same  yolks 
will  take  up  much  more  if  need  be, 

693.  

A  quicker  way  than  the  foregoing  is :    Place  the 

yolks  in  a  deep  quart  bowl — set  in  ice  water,  if 
warm  weather — add  a  spoonful  of  oil  and  whip  with 
a  Dover  egg  beater.  In  half  a  minute  add  more  oil, 
then  the  salt,  and  the  mixture  will  at  once  become 
like  bu'ter.  Keep  thinning  with  oil  and  vinegar  as 
in  the  other  case^  three  proportions  of  oil  to  one  of 
vinegar. 


694.       Uses  of  the  Mayonaise. 


The  mayonaise  when  right  is  like  softened  butter, 
only  more  tenacious— too  thick  to  run.  It  is  to  be 
spread  smoothly  over  the  top  of  the  pile  or  shape  of 
salad  material,  over  the  fillet  of  fish  or  form  of  lob- 
ster or  shrimp,  or  over  the  whole  fish — giving  a 
glossy  yellow  surface  to  be  ornamented  as  desired. 
It  is  to  be  eaten  with  the  salad  material  as  butter 
would  be.  Sometimes  for  ornamental  purposes  it  is 
stirred  into  the  too  loose  material  to  make  taller 
shapes. 

It  is  to  be  mixed  with  about  an  equal  amount  of 


176 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


aspic  jelly — (the  jelly  being  cold  enough  \o  be  ju3t 
on  the  point  of  setting)  to  form  coli  tartar  sauce — 
a  yell>w,  flavored  acid  jelly.  Also  mixed  with 
different  p  eparations  it  makes  sauces  or  dressings 
of  other  colors — emerald  green  and  cardinal 
red.  Besidei  these  employments  it  is  used  in  the 
form  of 

005*      SALAD  CaEAM,  OB  THIN  MAYONAISE. 

Reduce  the  thick  mayonaise  to  the  consistency  of 
cream  by  adding  m  re  vinegar  or  vioegar  and  water 
— in  some  cases  milk  or  cream — and  if  you  wish  to 
be  particular  use  some  clear  strained  chicken  broth 
(c  -Id)  or  unseasoned  soup  stock  with  the  vinegar, 
instead  of  water.  For  lobster  and  other  shell  fish, 
however,  all  vinegar  may  be  used,  as  they  take  away 
its  sharpness.  This  salad  cream  used  as  a  sauce 
makes  almost  any  kind  of  vegetable,  meat  and  fish 
palatable  and  relishing  if  served  with  it  cold  and 
crisp. 


Palatable,  that  is,  to  those  who  do  not  dislike 
olive  oil.  And  some  of  your  people  will  make  the 
thin  mayonaise  for  themselves.  Some  will  choose 
their  dinner  in  courses  even  from  an  American  form 
bill  of  fare,  and  sa'ads  are  as  ''familiar  in  their 
mouths  as  household  words."  Seeing  you  have 
mayonaise  they  are  apt  to  order  it  plain  and  wiih 
the  condiment  s  and  relishes  before  them  make  their 
rwn  varia  ions  on  their  own  plates. 

My  Italian  friend  who  almost  invariably  for  his 
own  meals  makes  a  salad,  or  at  least  something  akin 
to  salad,  with  oil  poured  over,  looks  askance  at  the 
vinegar  and  remarks :  ''Along  the  shores  of  the 
Mt  diterraneau  the  people,  the  wealthy  people,  the 
mercantile  people,  do  not  use  vinegar  more  than  to 
the  amount  of  a  squeeze  of  a  lemon — it  is  the  com 
mon  people,  the  people  of  the  interior,  tl:e  peasants 
(and  he  shrugs  his  shoulders  contemptuouslj)  only 
the  peasants  who  pour  vi  icgar  plentifully  over  their 
green  stuff  and  call  it  ealad  '*  A  remark  which 
may  serve  to  give  the  right  hang  of  that  Spanish 
proverb  about  ealad-making:  "A  spendthrift  for 
oil,  a  niggaid  for  vinegar,  and  a  madman  to  mix  the 
salad  toge  her  "  For  there  are  those  who  think  the 
one  who  p  urs-in  any  oil  at  all  is  the  madman,  and 
at  any  rate  think  it  will  be  better  to  let  the  spend- 
thrift donate  the  vinegtr  instead  of  the  oil.  There 
are  a  so  motives  of  ec  nomy  iu  favor  of  the  wrorg 
reading;  but  we  cooks  are  perfectly  disinterested 
and  had  just  as  lief  make  our  dressing  without  oil 
as  not. 


The  following,  if  a  rather  large  quantity  for  fifty 
persons  for  dinner,  is  not  too  much  for  a  supper 
ealad  on  a  hot  summ^^r  evening,  when  the  thought 
alone  of  all  other  food  is  wearisome  disgust. 


696.    Hollandaise  Salad  Cream. 


^  pint  of  good  white  wine  vinegar. 

^  pint  scant  of  water, 

8  ounces  of  butter. 
12  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  made  mustard. 

A  pinch  of  cayenne.    Salt. 

Boil  the  vinegar,  water,  and  salt  and  butter  all 
together  in  a  bright  saucepan.  Beat  the  yolks  a 
little,  add  some  of  the  boiling  liquid  and  stir  them 
together,  then  mix  all  and  let  come  to  the  boiling 
point.  It  is  on  the  same  principal  as  making  cus- 
tard. If  allowed  to  thoroughly  boil  it  will  curdle, 
and  have  to  be  thrown  away;  if  taken  off  too  soon  it 
will  not  be  rich  and  thick  enough  One  minute  of 
stirring  after  the  yolks  are  added  is  usually  enough. 
Strain  and  set  on  ice  to  be  cold  for  use. 


The  preceding  will  be  found  eminently  satisfactory 
and  can  be  used  in  almost  every  place  that 
mayonaise  would  be  employed.  It  can  be  made 
thicker  or  thinner  as  required,  but  when  thinned 
must  be  rapidly  beaten  and  the  liquid — water  or 
broth  and  vinegar — added  by  degrees,  otherwise  the 
dressing  may  separate  and  the  butter  come  to  the 
top.     This,  however,  seldom  occurs. 

It  is  generally  an  object  to  have  mayonaise  creamy 
white,  for  which  purpose  lemon  juice  is  added  to  it, 
but  the  hollandaise  dressing  is  golden  yellow,  an<i 
the  better  for  vegetable  salads  like  the  following, 
which  have  no  good  looks  of  their  own. 


60Y. 


Lima  Beans  Salad. 


2  quarts  of  cooked  lima  or  butter  beans. 

A  small  onion. 

A  little  chopped  parsley. 

The  hollandaise  salad  oream  of  the  preceding  r^ 
ceipt. 

Mince  the  onion  small.  Mix  all  the  ingredients 
together  by  pouring  from  one  bowl  to  another,  ex- 
cept the  parsley,  which  chop  and  sprinkle  over  the 
top. 

And  my  Italian  friend  looked  on  dubiously  when 
he  first  saw  me  preparing  to  pour  a  mayonaise  over 
lima  beans,  and  afterwards  over  corn,  and  green 
peas,  and  string  beans,  as  if  he  thought  in  Italian, 
"To  what,  base  uses  may  we  come,  Horatiol" 
"But,"  I  said,  "you  make  the  salade  de  legumes, 
which  is — excuse  me — something  of  a  vegetable  hash; 
these  are  at  least  simple  and  from  their  looks  in- 
viting. And  you  cut  also  beets  in  dice  and  mix  m, 
and  they  stain  the  cut  potatoes,  and  the  red  juice 
mingles  with  the  pale  yellow  of  the  mayonaise  and 
makes  an  uneatable  color."      He  put  on  his  study- 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


177 


ing  cap  and  presently  adopted  the  butter  beans 
salad,  as  well  as  the  others,  but  he  did  not  give  up 
the  cut  beets  in  salad  cream.  Mere  matters  of  fancy 
perhaps  —  but  jet  we  presently  discover  which 
things  are  popular. 


Lima  beans,  so  generally  esteemed,  in  their  green 
state  have  but  a  very  short  season.  Contrary  to  the 
general  rule,  the  dried  are  better  than  the  canned 
beans  for  winter  use. 

698.  

The  secret  of  cooking  all  dried  beans  soft  is  in  the 

following : 

Wash  and  pick  them  over  carefully  and  put  them 
on  in  plenty  of  cold  water  with  a  rounding  teaspoon- 
ful  of  soda  for  every  two  pounds  of  beans. 

Boil  about  2  or  3  hours  till  they  begin  to  be  sofr. 
Then  pour  them  suddenly  ^into  a  colander  to  drain, 
turn  them  back  in  the  boiler  and  put  in  enough 
fresh  cold  water  to  cover  them. 

Set  them  to  boil  again — in  half  an  hour  more  they 
will  be  thoroughly  cooked.  The  sudden  adding  of 
cold  water  to  the  hot  beans  causes  the  skin  to  crack, 
after  which  they  finish  cooking  easily.  There  is  no 
excuse  for  the  stupidity  of  the  mule-driving  cooks 
told  of  in  Scribner's  Monthly  (Hocky  Mountain 
Cookery,)  who  carry  the  beans  partly  cooked  in 
their  kettles  and  recook  them  for  three  successive 
days  in  the  vain  attempt  to  make  them  soft.  Our 
lima  beans  are  comparatively  easy,  but  the  most 
refractory  sample  of  navy  beans  can  be  reduced  in 
five  hours  by  the  above  method  even  at  an  elevation 
of  11,000  feet. 


699. 


Oaulifiower  Salad. 


4  to  6  pounds  of  cauliflower. 

The  hollandaise  salad  cream  of  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt. 

A  little  oil  and  vinegar. 

Cut  the  branches  of  the  cauliflower  in  the  right 
sized  pieces  for  individual  dishes  while  raw,  trim 
the  stems  off  evenly,  let  stand  in  a  pan  of  cold 
water  an  hour  or  two.  Set  it  on  with  plenty  of  cold 
water  to  cover  it,  to  boil,  and  add  salt,  but  nothing 
else.  Cook  till  the  thick  stems  will  leave  the  fork 
as  in  boiling  potatoes — an  hour  or  less.  Drain 
without  breaking  the  pieces  and  set  away  to  get  cold 
.  Mix  a  little  oil  and  vinegar  with  the  cauliflower  as 
well  as  may  be  by  careful  pouiing  from  one  bowl  to 
another.  Over  each  piece  placed  on  individual 
dishes  pour  a  spoonful  of  the  salad  creiim,  which 
should  be  thick  enough  to  mask  it  and  not  run  off  in 
the  dish. 

Cau'ifl  iwer  salad  is  worth  decorating.  A  few 
capers,  French  green  peas  shaken  about  in  vinegar, 
some  small  patterns  stamped  out  of  beet  slices,  or  a 
sprig  of  parsley. 


For  luncheon  or  a  party  dinner  build  up  the  cau- 
liflower in  pyramidal  form,  or  like  half  a  melon,  wiih 
fork  and  knife,  laying  the  pieces  in  order  around 
the  dish,  the  largest  at  the  bottom,  heads  outward, 
and  another  tier  on  top  of  that,  the  salad  cream  to 
be  poured  over  all,  and  decorate  according  to  your 
taste. 

TOO.       Sugar  Corn  Salad. 


Like  the  Lima  beans  salad,  and  to  be  dished  up 
with  the  salad  cream  as  a  sauce,  in  vegetable  dishes. 
The  grains  of  corn  are  required  to  be  distinct  and 
clean  and  free  from  mush,  and  should  be  washed  in 
a  colander  for  the  purpose. 


Before  going  on  to  describe  the  other  available 
everyday  salad  dressings  let  us  include  one  more 
variety  best  dressed  with  the  bright  hollandaise. 


YOl.    Vegetable  Salad—Plain 

Take  equal  parts  of  four,  five  or  six  kinds  of 
cooked  vegetables — green  peas,  string  beans,  cauli- 
flowers, asparagus  heads  not  too  soft  cooked,  corn, 
Lima  beans  and  potatoes,  and  a  smaller  proportion 
of  onions — if  small  green  ones  so  much  the  better — 
and  a  few  slices  of  beets  for  ornament.  Cut  the  po- 
tatoes in  small  dice,  the  string  beans  and  onions  to 
match,  ani  pull  the  cauliflower  apart  in  small  ppiigs 

Mix  all  with  a  little  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt 
and  shake  them  about  in  the  salad  cream  in  a  bowl. 

Dishup  with  cut  beets  and  chopped  parsley  sprink- 
eled  over  the  lop. 

Cooks  who  care  to  follow  the  analogist  will  have 
observed  that  hollandaise  salad  cream  is  very  like 
the  hot  hollandaise  sauce  used  so  much  in  the  high- 
est style  cookery,  not  only  for  a  fish  sauce  but 
equally  for  asparagus,  cauliflower,  artichoke,  pota- 
toes, etc.  The  difference  is  only  in  the  proportions 
and  in  this  being  used  cold.  Hollandaise  or  Dutch 
sauce  by  the  English  method  is  mi'der,  the  French 
more  concentrated  and  pungent.  This  dressing  an- 
swers the  question  of  what  we  shall  do  when  we 
have  no  oil,  and  the  people  I  have  instruted  with 
pencillings  by  the  way,  have  generally  taken  more 
pleasure  in  making  ii  than  the  other  more  trouble- 
some varieties. 

Still  when  we  have  this  and  the  genuine  French 
mayonaise  there  remains  a  want  of  which  we  are  re- 
minded when  people  looking  over  a  table  unsatis- 
factorily furnished  with  lettuce  without  boiled  eggs 
on  top,  and  over  a  bill  of  fare  equally  incomplete 
send  timidly  asking  the  powers  that  be  if  they  can't 
have  a  hard-boiled  egg  or  two  for  their  salad.  Such 
persons  have  been  known  to  send  written  on  a  bill 
of  fare  the  lines  imputed  to  Sidney  Smith  : 
"True  flavor  needs  it,  and  your  poet  begs 
The  pounded  yellow  of  two  well- boiled  eggs. " 


178 


THE  AMEEICAN  COOK. 


Well,  we  are  coming  to  that  kind  of  dressing,  but 
having  in  mind  the  common  aversion  to  and  common 
scarcity  of  huile  d*  olives  vierge,  will  offer  for  the  ex- 
periments of  the  critical  in  such  matters  a  refine- 
ment upon  the  foregoing  hollandaise. 

702.   Salad  Cream  "Without  Oil. 


1  cupful  of  best  butter. 

^  cupful  of  vinegar — large. 

6  raw  yolks. 

1  cupful  of  thin  cream. 

J  teaspoonful  of  sah. 

Cayenne  and  white  pepper,  of  each  as  much  as 
would  lie  on  a  dime. 

Boii  the  vinrgir  and  butter  together  in  a  deep 
bowl-shiiped  saucepan.  Beat  the  yolks  light.  Pour 
the  boiling  vinegir  and  butter  to  them  gradu-illy 
while  still  beaing,  then  place  the  mixture  on  the 
fire  again.  It  is  very  liable  to  burn  at  the  bottom 
and  must  be  beaten  rapidly  till  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Then  commence  and  slowly  pour  in  the  cup  of  milk 
or  cream  and  continue  beating  till  the  salad  dress- 
ing looks  like  cream  or  boiled  custard.  It  must 
not  quite  boil  else  it  will  curdle.  Add  the  salt  and 
pepper  and  beat  it  in  a  pan  of  ice  water  till  cold. 


A  porcelain  lined  saucepan  should  be  used  for  the 
above.  If  you  cinnot  stay  with  the  silad  cream  till 
fifiihed  set  the  saucepan  in  a  pan  of  boiling  wate/ 
and  beat  it  up  frequently  as  you  pass. 


V03. 


Oyster  Salad. 


1  quart  of  fresh  oysters. 

1  quart  of  chopped  celery. 

Either  the  hollandaise  or  the  salad  cream  of  the 
preceding  receipt. 

Drain  the  oysters  from  their  liquor.  Cut  them  in 
halves  or  quartera.  Mix  with  the  chopped  celery 
and  pour  the  dressing  over. 


Half  lettuce  and  half  celery  will  answer  for  the 
preceding,  or  tender  white  cabbage  may  be  used. 
Oyster  salad  is  in  demand. 


'Y04.  Canned  Cove  Oyster  Salad. 
May  be  made  like  the  foregoing,  the  liquor  being  ex- 
cluded, at.d  also  with  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  dice 
in  any  other  salad  dressing. 

Clams  cin  be  used  as  above  in  time  of  need.  U?e 
some  of  the  clam  liquor  to  thin  the  salad  dressing 
with,  instead  of  water. 


70S. 


Ham  Salad. 


Excellent  change  from  potato  salad  for  hotel  sup- 


pers. 

1  quart  of  boiled  potatoes,  in  dice. 

1  quart  of  celery  and  lettuce. 

1  quart  of  lean  boiled  ham,  minced. 

1  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard, 

1  do  celery  extract. 

The  Jiollandaise  or  any  of  the  foregoing  salad 
creams. 

Use  the  shank  meat  of  boiled  ham;  chop  it  fine  in 
a  wooden  bowl.  Cut  the  vegetables  neatly  in  dice 
of  uniform  appearance.  Mix  well  with  the  dress- 
ing. 


Now  what  can  we  careful  managers  of  provisions 
best  do  with  a  whole  panful  of  nice  white  celery  (in 
ice  water)  when  all  the  heart  pieces  have  already 
been  picked  out  and  eaten  with  salt  only  ?  There 
are  but  two  or  three  ways  of  cooking  celery,  and 
very  little  suffices  for  that. 


700. 


Celery  Salad. 


"Let  onion  atoms  lurk  within  the  bowl, 
And  scarce  suspected  animate  the  whole." 
2  quarts  of  celery  cut  in  small  dice. 
The  cream  salad  dressing  of  the  last  receipt. 
An  onion  grated  or  finely  minced. 
Little  salt. 

Mix  well.  Serve  very  cold  with  a  little  parsley 
sprinkled  over  the  top.  Best  for  lunch  when  there 
is  cold  chicken  beside,  or  other  cold  meat. 


HARICOTS  VEBTS  EN  MAYONAISE, 

In  other  words  string  beans  salad,  appears  in  a 
menu  of  a  dinner  of  the  royal  family  of  Spain,  one 
that  has  been  preserved  as  a  model,  among  many 
others. 


Whenever  canned  vegetables  have  to  be  used — ^and 
some  of  the  best  brands  do  very  very  well  for  salads 
— drain  the  liquor  from  them  and  rinse  them  in 
fresh  hot  water  before  using. 

"But  where  are  those  hard-boiled  eggs?" 
*«Coming  up!" 

"In  dressing  salad,  mind  this  law! 

With  two  hard  yolks  use  one  that's  raw.*' 


701. 

American  Favorite  Salad  Dressinsr. 

6  hard-boiled  eggs  (the  yolks  only  needed). 

2  or  3  raw  yolks* 

J  cupful  of  olive  oil. 

^  cupful  of  melted  fresh  butter. 

1  cupful  of  vinegar. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard. 
Little  black  pepper  and  cayenne. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


179 


Pound  the  hard-boiled  yolis  quite  smooth  in  a 
bowl  with  the  WArm  butter,  add  the  silt,  mustard 
and  peppBr,  and  then  beat  in  the  oil  gradually,  and 
alternately  with  tlie  vinegar.  The  bowl  should  be 
Bet  in  ice  water  in  warm  weather.  This  makes  a 
buttery  compound,  that  may  be  reduced  either  wi'h 
eold  chicken  liquor,  cream,  or  vinegar  and  water, 
according  to  the  requirement. 


T08. 


Best  Potato  Salad. 


Favorite  hotel  supper  dish. 
2  quarts  of  boiled  potatoes. 

1  sm  til  onion. 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley. 

The  popular  salad  dressing  of  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt. 

Slice  or  break  the  potatoes,  mince  the  onion  ex- 
tremely small,  mix,  pour  the  dreesiog  over  and 
combine  thoroughly  by  turning  the  ealad  from  one 
bowl  to  another  three  or  four  timej.  Throw  the 
fresh  chopped  parsley  into  it  just  before  serving. 
The  whites  of  the  eggs  may  be  added,  cut  in  strips. 


The  foregoing  is  the  formula,  the  rut  to  run  in, 
but  how  shall  we  infuse  life  into  it  or  explain  the 
particular  knack  which  makes  one  person' s^  potato 
salad  80  utterly  unlike  and  superior  to  another's  ? 
Cold  potatoes  which  have  remained  in  the  dinner 
steamers  three  hours,  then  are  peeled  and  sliced, 
may  do — the  dressing  will  carry  the  burden  of  their 
inferiority,  but  they  are  not  best. 

Tal^e  new  potatoes  if  you  can,  if  not,  good 
mealy  old  ones,  pare  and^  divide  in  large  pieces. 
Throw  them  in  cold  salted  water  and  boil  about  half 
an  hour,  or  till  j  ust  done.  Drain  the  water  from 
them  and  break  the  largest  pieces  apart  with  a 
twist  of  a  fork.  When  nearly  cold  mix  the  dressing 
with  the  potatoes  and  set  the  bowl  on  ice  till  wanted* 


We  obtain  the  best  salads  with  the  least  fuss 
when  we  can  get  those  trifling  cooks,  two  or  more 
of  them,  to  run  a  rivalry  with  each  other  who  can 
make  the  best.  The  last  described  dressing  is  a 
little  tedioup,  being  a  double  compound  of  cooked 
and  raw.  The  person  dishing  up  vegetables  during 
the  slow  latter  end  of  dinner  generally  can  prepare 
it  between  times  to  be  ready  for  the  next  meal. 

All  these  salad  dressings  are  susceptible  of  im- 
provement by  added  flavorings,  and  the  epicure 
gets  in  his  extra  harmonies  in  that  way.  Not  to 
confuse  rur  dirpctions  we  will  treat  of  the  flavoring 
complications  by  themselvrs  in  a  special  chapter. 

A  scarcity  of  eggs  often  makes  us  employ  a  salad 
dressing  tl  at  can  be  made  without  any,  for  hotel 
mea's  go  on  incessantly,  but   another  reason  for  the 


following  being  kept  in  mind  is  its  wh'teness  to 
contrast  with  the  preceding  kinds,  which  are  all 
yellow. 

710.    AUemande  Salad  Dressinff* 


^  cupful  of  best  butter. 

1  lablespoonful  of  flour. 

^  cupful  of  olive  oil. 

^  cupful  of  vinegar. 

1  cupful  of  strong  chicken  or  veal  broth. 

Salt  and  white  pepper. 

Little  cream  to  thin  and  whiten  the  dressing. 

Mix  the  butter  and  flour  together  in  a  saucepan 
over  the  fire  as  if  making  drawn  butter,  pour  in  the 
oil  and  then  the  broth  gradually,  stirring  till  it 
thickens,  and  then  the  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
lastly  the  cream. 

Strain  and  set  on  ice  till  wanted. 

The  bro;h  should  be  strong  enough  to  set  in  jelly 
when  cold,  and  should  be  strained  through  a  napkin 
before  it  is  used  for  the  dressing. 


711.    Potato  Salad  a  rAUemande. 


2  quarts  of  potatoes  cut  in  dice* 

3  or  4  green  onions,  with  part  of  the  tops. 
8  or  4  radishes. 

1  head  of  lettuce  cut  small. 

The  allemande  dressing  of  the  preceding  receipt. 

Mix  all  the  vegetables  and  pour  the  dressing  over, 
or  reserve  the  radishes  to  ornament  the  tops  of  the 
dishes,  or  else  use  cress  or  parsley  for  that  purpose. 


The  same  dressing  will  serve  for  various  other 
vegetable  salads  as  well  as  the  above,  and  for  fish 
and  chicken  when  there  is  a  mayonaise  for  border 
and  this  for  top^^dressing. 

'Rubbing  the  Dish  with  Gaelic. 

There  are  yarns  and  yarns  about  great  secrets  in 
c  )okery  andj  their  ^ possessors,!  like  one  in  the 
Kepobteb  recently  of  a  castaway  Frenchman  who 
made  the  fortune  of  a  Russian  innkeeper  and  of  the 
town  by  imparting  the  secret  of  French  chicken 
fiicassee.  What  a  curious  scrap-book  might  be 
made  if  some  of  the  people  who  have  time.to  play 
would  collect  these  wonderful  gastronomical  and 
culinary  anecdotes  I 

The  really  good  cooks  of  the  country  practice 
thousands  of  the  fine  touches  which  the  uninitiated 
might  term  great  secrets,  and  throw  them  all  into 
the  grand  aggregate  that  is  styled  excellence  of  the 
hotel  cuisine.  Some  of  these  fine  touches  lie  in 
flavoring  salads,  more  particularly  the  salad  dress« 
ings,  and  one  of  them  is  to  rub  the  salad  dish  with 
garlic.    There  was  a   head  waiter   in  Boston  once 


180 


THB    AMEBICAN  COOK. 


who  nibbed  the  dish  with  garlic  and  his  Balads  were 
in  great  repute,  though  none  could  teli  the  sscret  of 
the  subtle  aroma  they  possessed.  If  any  looked  for 
Tulgar  garlic  in  the  salad  they  found  none.  It  was 
only  a  case  of  the  scent  of  the  roses  that  huog  round 
it  still.  Sort  of  hook  baitirg  trick,  an  illusion,  as  it 
were.  Pos&ibly  some  castaway  Frenchman  had  im- 
parted this  secret  to  this  head  waiter  of  the  Boston 
hotel,  but  it  was  impossible  for  it  to  remain  un- 
shared, and  so  a  waiter,  after  a  while,  discovered 
his  superior  rubbing  the  dish  with  garlic.  Now  two 
persons  possessed  the  secret  and  of  covr^e  they 
could  not  both  live  in  one  house.  There  used  to  be 
an  awful  story  told  about  the  great  Captain  Cook 
and  his  too  smart  cabin  boy  who,  when  at  the  anti- 
podes, was  asked  by  the  gleeful  captain  if  be  knew 
where  he  was,  and  had  the  indiscretion  to  answer 
"under  London  bridge."  But  the  captain  would 
not  allow  anyone  to  remain  in  the  vessel  who  knew 
as  much  as  he  did  himself,  and  pitched  the  poor  boy 
overboard,  which  was  very  shocking,  and  that  is 
about  what  happened  to  this  poorjwailer,  so  he  went 
West. 

T13.  

Francatelli  instructing  the  English  cooks  in  French 

cookery  could  not  quite  abandon  garlic,  but  found 
it  necessary  to  warn  them  not  to  use  a  head  of  gar- 
lic, but  only  one  clove,  and  took  occasion  to  remark, 
"Over-seasoning  is  the  bane  of  English  cookery." 

A  little  touch  of  garlic  is  desirable,  it  is  the  petit 
point  <r ail  in  a.  ragout  praised  by  Sir  Walter  Scott. 
And  this  is  but  one  of  many  flavorings  to  be  used 
with  discretion,  for  which  no  directions  can  be  giv- 
en. The  foregoing  will  perhaps  give  point  to  the 
following  excerpt  from  Brillat-Savarin,  so  far  as  to 
call  attention  to  the  flavorings  named  : 

"  I  prefer]  to  tell  the  story  of  a  Frenchman  of 
Limousin,  who  made  his  fortune  in  London  by  his 
skill  in  mixing  a  salad.  Although  his  means  were 
very  limited,  Albignac  (so  he  was  c  lied,  if  I  re- 
member right)  went  one  day  to  dine  in  one  of  the 
most  famous  taverns  in  London.  Whilst  he  was 
finishing  his  succulent  beefsteak,  there  were  five  or 
six  young  dandies  of  good  family  regaling  them- 
selves at  a  neighboring  table.  One  of  them  came  to 
him  and  sa"d  very  politely:  'Sir,  it  is  said  that 
your  nation  excels  in  the  art  of  making  salads;  will 
you  be  so  good  as  oblige  us  by  mixing  one?' 

"D'Albignac  consenting,  after  a  little  hesitation, 
ordered  all  that  he  thought  necessary  for  the  expect- 
ed masterpiece,  used  his  best  endeavors, "and  had 
the  good  luck  to  succeed. 

"Whilst  studying  the  ingredients,  he  answered 
frankly  all  questions  about  himself.  He  said  he 
was  an  emigrant  and  admitted,  not  without  some 
natural  shame,  that  he  was  receiving  ass'stance 
from  the  English  government  —  a  circumstance 
which  no  doubt  authorized  one  of  the  young  men  to 
slip  into  the  exile's  hand  a  five-pound  note,  and  in- 


sist on  his  keeping  it. 

'•He  had  given  his  address,  and  some  time  after, 
he  received  a  very  civil  note,  requesting  him  to  go 
and  mix  a  salad  in  one  of  the  finest  houses  in  Gros- 
venor  Square.  D'Albignac  arrived  punctually, 
after  furnishing  himself  with  some  special  season, 
ings  and  maturing  his  plans.  He  had  the  good  luck 
to  succeed  again. 

"The  first  party  for  whom  he  had  manipulated 
had  exaggerated  the  merits  of  his  salad,  and  the 
second  company  made  so  much  more  noise  about  it, 
that  d'Albignac's  reputationwas  already  made.  He 
was  known  as  the  fashionable  salad  maker,  and  soon 
had  a  gig,  in  order  to  keep  his  appointments,  with  a 
servant  to  bring  his  mahogany  case  containing  all 
the  ingredients — such  as  vinegars  of  diflferent  fla- 
vors, oils  with  or  without  a  fruity  taste,  soy, 
caviare,  truffles,  anchovies,  ketchups,  gravies,  and 
even  hard-boiled  eggs. 

"Later  he  got  cases  made  to  order,  furnished 
them  completely  and  sold  them  by  hundreds.  In 
short  he  came  to  realize  a  fortune  of  more  than 
eighty  thousand  francs." 


^14.  

In  those  countries  where  butter  is  held  in  little 

esteem  and  olive  oil  in  a  large  degree  takes  its 
place,  it  may  naturally  be  surmised  the  fastidious 
people  are  as  particular  in  the  quality  of  oil  and  its 
combinations  and  critical  of  their  flavors  as  Ameri- 
cans and  English  of  '-Cold  Spring  Creamery  Gilt 
Edged"  and  the  famous  "Suff'olk  Dairy  Butter." 
The  impossibility  of  improving  the  flavor  of  butter 
by  any  addition  does  not  exist  in  regard  to  oil,  and 
it  seems  quite  possible  for  connoiseurs  to  surprise 
the  palate  of  their  friends  by  new  admixtures, 
especially  in  mayonaise  and  salads.  In  Kussia,  it  is 
said,  the  oil  of  sunflower  seed  is  largely  used  for 
salad  making.  The  olive  oil  which  now  comes  from 
California  has  much  the  same  nutty  flavor,  or  per- 
haps more  resembles  the  taste  of  beech  nuts.  The 
best  we  can  ask  for  is  to  have  oil  as  nearly  tasteless 
as  possible  if  we  want  to  make  salads  more  popular, 
and  above  all  reject  the  oil  which  is  sold  cheap 
because  it  has  become  rancid,  just  as  we  reject  strong 
butter. 

If  we  cannot  afford  to  select  our  oils  of  various 
brands — "wither  without  a  fruity  taste" — accord- 
ing to  the  use  intended,  we  need  not  be  so  restrict- 
ed in  the  choice  of  vinegars  of  various  flavors,  to 
give  variety  to  the  miyonaise. 

French  cooks  who  disagree  in  most  things  are  all 
agreed  in  using  tarragon  vinegar  for  salad  dressings 
whenever  it  can-be  had  and  look  with  a  withering 
sort  of  pity  on  the  American  cook  who  has  never  had 
even  a  pint  of  it  bought  for  his  use  in  the  whole 
course  of  his  life.  They  don't  know  how  thankful 
he  is  if  even  the  plain  vinegar  furnished  proves  not 
to  be  diluted  sulphuric  acid. 

Tarragon  and  other  flavored  vinegars  which  con- 


THE    AMERICAN  COOK. 


181 


noiseurs  regard  as  indispensible  can  be  bought  like 
any  other  good  thing  ready  prepared,  but  where  it 
cannot  be  had  for  the  asking  it  may  be  worth  while 
for  the  cook  to  make  his  own. 


715. 


Tarragon  Vinegar. 


Green  tarragon  is  a  herb  and  can  be  bought  of  the 
market  gardeners  in  large  cities.  It  is  said  to  be 
best  and  strongest  just  as  the  plant  is  going  into 
blossom. 

1  pound  of  tarragon  leaves. 

4  quarts  of  white  wine  vinegar. 

Let  steep  in  a  stone  jar  two  weeks. 

Then  filter  it  through  a  flannel  jelly  bag,  add  to  it 
a  quarter  ounce  of  isinglass  (gelatine  will  do)  dis- 
solved in  warm  cider  or  vinegar,  to  clarify  it,  bottle 
it  and  let  it  stand  a  month,  when  it  is  to  be  decanted 
into  small  bottles  to  keep. 

But  hotel  cooks  can  never  do  all  that,  whicli  is  a 
foreign  method  for  phlegmatic  people.  Reader,  did 
you  ever  go  into  the  bar- room  of  a  back  country 
hotel — say  in  Missouri — though  Peck's  Sun  says 
Iowa — and  see  on  the  back  shelf  a  series  of  home 
made  extracts,  jars  of  whiskey  with  something  in  it? 
One  of  these  is  tansy — green  tansy  leaves  put  in  to 
flavor  the  liquor.  That  is  for  tansy  bitters.  An- 
other has  peaches.  That  is  for  peach  and  sugar. 
Others  have  cherries,  lemon  peel,  orange  peel.  They 
are  for  we  know  not  what.  But  tarragon  can  be 
steeped  in  cold  vinegar  like  tansy  in  whisky,  and 
half  a  pint  of  flavored  vinegar  thus  be  had  at  any 
time.  Use  it  sparingly  in  piace  of  part  of  the  plain 
vinegar  in  any  of  the  salad  dressings,  not  flavoring 
strongly,  however,  as  tarragon  is  a  stranger  to  most 
of  our  people. 


Tarragon  Vinegar. 

1  pound  of  green  tarragon,  partly  dried  before 
using. 

6  small  onions. 

1  ounce  of  long  pepper. 

3  quarts  of  white  wine  or  cider  vinegar. 

Put  the  whole  in  a  stone  jug,  cork  and  let  steep 
several  weeks.  Strain  through  a  napkin  or  silk  seive 
before  using. 


TIG. 


Chili  Vinegar. 


Common  pepper  sauce.  Dilute  a  bottle  with  two 
quarts  of  vinegar  for  salad  seasoning.  A  table- 
spoonful  is  enough  to  mix  in  a  salad. 


Til. 


Celery  Vinegar. 


2  pounds  of  the  solid  celery  roots  and  stalks  that 
you  cannot  use  on  the  table — all  white,  however, 


and  sweet. 

2  quarts  of  vinegar. 

Mince  the  celery  small.  Boil  the  vinegar  and  pour 
it  to  the  celery  in  a  stone  jar.  Add  a  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  stir  up,  let  steep  till  next  day  then  strain 
into  a  demijohn  or  stone  jug  and  cork  it  tight. 
This  may  be  used  in  almost  all  salads  in  place  of  part 
of  the  plain  vinegar. 


Eight  ounces  of  celery  seed  scalded  with  a  quart 
of  boiling  vinegar  and  let  stand  to  steep  makes  the 
same  kind  of  flavored  vinegar  as  the  foregoing. 


But  celery  extract  ready  prepared  is  cheap  enough 
and  more  convenient  than  either. 


718. 


Garlio  Vinegar. 


4  heads  of  garlic,  sliced. 

1  ounce  of  red  peppers,  chopped. 

^  teacupful  of  walnut  ketchup. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

2  quarts  of  vinegar. 

Put  all  in  a  stone  jar,  cold,  and  keep  covered 
Used  for  Russian,  Italian,  Polish  and  Spanish 
salads.  With  the  pulp  of  a  few  pounded  anchovies 
added,  and  a  little  red  coloring  the  above  is  the 
sauce  called  carachi. 


719. 


Caper  Vinegar. 


Turn  a  bottle  of  French  capers  and  their  vinegar 
into  a  quart  of  white  wine  vinegar  in  a  jug.  Strain 
before  using.  This  is  best  for  the  Allemande  dress- 
ing. 


730.     Nasturtium  Vinegar. 


Vinegar  flavored  with  pickled  nasturtium  seeds, 
same  as  capers.  The  seeds  are  also  very  useful  for 
mixing  in  and  decorating  salads. 


HZt. 


Beet  Vinegar. 


Used  occasionally  for  coloring,  is  the  vinegar  in 
which  sliced  beets  have  lain,  boiled  down  to  about 
one  half,  to  make  it  stronger  and  to  make  it  keep 
without  spoiling. 


Strawberry,  mulberry,  raspberry  and  other  vine- 
gars of  fruit  not  sweetened,  are  made  by  steeping 
the  fruit  in  vinegar  and  boiling  down,  as  above,  then 
bottling. 

The  vinegar  from  walnut  pickles,  also  vine<;;ar 
made  pungent  with  grated  horseradish  are  also  u?ed 
for  salad  seasoning,  but  not  in  ordinary  life.  T*?ey 
are  mentioned  for  information  rather  than  user 


182 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


VI3;3*      Compound  Vinegar. 


1  pound  of  larragon. 

4  ounces  of  mustard  seeds. 
6  cloves  of  garlic. 
6  small  onions. 
.  4  ounces  cf  elder  blossoms. 

2  ounces  of  long  pepper. 
^  ounce  of  cloves. 

4  quarts  of  white  wine  vinegar. 
Put  all  together  to  steep  in  a  two-gallon  jug  cork- 
ed tight  and  let  stand  several  weeks  before  using. 


With  such  compounds  as  the  above  and  others 
doubtless  more  fanciful  than  useful  we  may  suppose 
d'Albignac  of  Limousin  filled  the  vials  which  he  sold 
by  the  case  to  the  fashionable  salad-crazed  London- 
ers of  sixty  years  since. 


Y23.     Perpetual  Hotel  Salad. 


Although  some  cf  the  things  just  examined  into 
may  be  out  of  the  regular  routine,  and  occasion  an 
impatient  Bhrug,  let  us  not  pass  them  without  some 
consideration,  or  rather  let  us  go  to  the  extreme 
contrast  of  the  perpetual  salad  that  we  sreused  to. 
Perpetual  salad  has  no  dressing  and  wants  no  flavor- 
ing nor  aromatic  vinegars — only  vinegar,  pepper 
and  salt.  And — oh,  yes,  onions — lots  of  onions — 
we  had  neaily  forgot.  It  is  said  Americans  are 
ecarcely  more  salsd-loving  than  the  English,  and 
some  have  never  tasted  salad,  yet  who  does  not 
know  this  one — the  perpetual  salad  made  by  the 
frugal  cook  ?  It  is  always  made  after  dinner.  Into 
a  deep  tin  pan — in  nice  places  it  may  be  a  bowl — 
goes  all  the  boiled  potatoes  that  have  been  left  over, 
and  then  an  onion  sliced.  Then  there  will  be  some 
beets,  beans,  peas,  butter  beans,  perhaps  corn,  then 
some  onions,  pepper,  salt,  vinegar,  and  it  may  be 
some  fried  bacon  and  the  fat  poured  over,  and  this 
salad  has  been  known  to  have  diluted  cooked  toma- 
toes mixed  in.  Some  ft ugal  cooks  will  make  dis- 
tinctions— will  have  prejudices.  One  draws  the  line 
at  corn,  and  appeals  to  authority:  "Who  ever  heard 
of  corn  being  put  in  salad  ?"  Another  will  set  his 
^e  against  peas,  and  so  on,  but  at  any  rate  there 
will  be  potatoes  and  onions  left,  and  beets,  pepper, 
■alt  and  vinegar.  No  oil.  It  would  be  easy  to  make 
fun  of  this,  but  wherefore  ?  It  is  all  right,  only  too 
crude,  too  perpetual.  It  is  always  for  supper,  and 
is  at  least  better  than  none.  It  is  so  good  it  ought 
to  be  made  still  better  and  more  various. 

With  the  potatoes  cut  in  dice  all  of  a  size,  the 
string  beans  cut  in  lengths  diamond-shaped  of  size 
to  match,  the  green  peas  washed  from  their  sauce  in 
warm  water,  the  corn  likewise,  the  onions  greatly 
reduced  in  quantity  and  also  cut  to  match;  with  a 
little  green  stuff  such  as  cress  or  parsley,  or  a  very 
little  green  onion  tops,  or  celery,  sprinkled  in,  and 


with  carrots,  pickles  and  capers,  as  well  as  beets, 
cut  to  correspond  and  mixed  in  only  at  the  last 
minute,  this  salad  will  be  fine,  and  need  not  be  al- 
ways alike.  With  any  one  of  the  easy  salad  dress- 
ings already  directed  to  be  made  poured  over  and 
shaken  about  in  it  the  salad  will  be  stylish, 
attractive,  enjoyable.  Or,  without  a  dressing  of 
the  made  kind,  with  a  little  oil  added  and  some 
chopped  eggs  this  combination  of  ma'eriais  that 
costs  next  to  nothing  will  be  equal  to  some  of  the 
best  salads  of  the  best  cooks,  with  high-sounding 
names. 

We  will  go  on  and  instance  various  foreign  mix- 
tures of  the  same  class,  first  taking  a  lessen  from 
one  of  the  noted  French  cooks — Jules  Goufie— and 
as  it  is  not  an  exact  receipt  to  be  proven  but  rather 
a  general  lesson  in  salad  making  we  copy  the  follow- 
ing as  we  find  it.     He  says : 

TS^.  MACEDOINE  SALAD. 

"The  following  incident  first  led  me  to  prepare  this 
salad:  Whilst  staying  at  a  friend's  country  house, 
the  mistress  of  the  house  came  ;_to  me  in  great  dis- 
tress, and  confided  to  me  that  her  supplies  having 
failed,  she  was  quite  at  a  loss  how  to  entertain  her 
numerous  guests,  and  asked  me  to  assist  her. 
When  I  investigated  the  state  of  the  larder,  I  found 
there  nothing  but  cold  meat  and  poultry,  and  cold 
game;  all  these  I  took,  and,  after  carefully  paring 
and  cutting  them  up,  I  made  them  into  a  huge  salad 
which  I  mixed  with  an  abundant  and  highly  sea- 
soned Mayonnaise  sauce,  adding  lettuce,  olive?,  an- 
chovies, hard  boiled  eggs,  pickles,  and  some 
chopped  tarragon,  chervil  and  shalots.  This  salad, 
preceded  by  a  good  soup,  and  followed  by  sweets 
and  fruit,  was  highly  appreciated  by  the  hungry 
guests." 


With  all  the  materials  mentioned  it  cannot  be  said 
the  cupboard  was  very  bare  anyway,  and  the  salad 
was  neither  cheap  nor  simple,  nor  hard  to  imitate; 
but  does  not  the  proceeding  show  the  difference  in 
national  customs?  An  American  would  never  have 
thought  of  making  a  salad,  nor  would  the  American 
hostess  have  felt  comfortable  seeing  all  the  provisions 
going  into  that  sort  of  compound.  Some  of  us  in- 
stead would  likely  have  made  a  bill  of  fare  of  about 
120  dishes  out  of  the  material  used  to  make  the  din- 
ner described. 

A  macedoine  salad,  like  a  macedoine  of  vegeta- 
bles, or  of  fruits,  or  macedoine  jelly,  is  a  mixture  of 
any  number  of  different  kinds  and  colors  all  cut  to 
one  size.  Goufife  says  his  abundant  mayonaise  was 
highly  seasoned.  Elsewhere  he  says  mayonaise 
should  be  highly  flavored.  Some  salads  contain 
very  high  flavored  ingredients  and  a  small  quantity 
suflfices,  as  pome  reject  them  altogether.  Mayonaise 
may  contain  a  large  amount  of  mustard,  used  in 
place  of  part  of  the  raw  eggs.     Salads  may  have  the 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


188 


"piquant  flayor  and  delicate  seasoning  of  the 
sausages  of  Aries,"  praised  by  both  Dumas  and  Sa- 
▼arin — pepper,  salt  and  garlic  with  smoked  beef. 


7Z5. 


Hamburg  Salad. 


2  large  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  dice. 
1  cupful  of  celery,  same  way. 
^  cupful  each  of  smoked  halibut,  dried  beef  and 
red  smoked  tongue  all  cut  small. 

1  small  onion. 

2  cloves  of  garlic  finely  minced. 

1  or  2  red  peppers  out  of  the  pickle  jar, 

6  hard-boiled  eggs. 

The  dried  beef  and  tongue  should  be  first  cooked 
by  boiling  several  hours.  The  celery  is  better  if 
blanched  (parboiled.)  Mix  all,  except  the  eggs,  in 
a  bowl  and  shake  about  with  oil  poured  in  till  the 
mixture  looks  rich  and  glossy,  then  add  a  cupful  of 
vinegar.  Ornament  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  chopped 
fine  and  the  whites  cut  in  strips. 

A  German  Salad— Herring  Salad. 


1  or  2  large  smoked  herrings. 

1  cupful  of  pickled  red  cabbage,  chopped  small. 

1  cupful  of  slices  of  salsify  or  oyster  plant- 
cooked. 

1  cupful  of  chopped  white  cabbage. 

Pepper,  salt,  oil,  vinegar. 

Free  the  meat  of  the  herrings  from  bones  and  skin 
and  mince  it  as  nearly  in  dice  shape  as  may  be. 
The  salsify  may  be  substituted  with  potatoes  if 
necessary,  cut  in  dice  or  lozenge  shapes.  Mix  all 
wi'  h  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt. 

727.  

While  ^re  are  yet  exploring  for  strong  and  pungent 

ingredients  with  which  perhaps  some  knowing  one 
m'gbt  "unwonted  richness  to  the  salad  give,"  it 
msy  be  noticed  that  the  repertory  of  the  salad-mak- 
ing D'Albignac  of  Limousin  included  both  caviare 
and  truffles.  People  who  enjoy  anchovy  toast; 
which  is  toast  spread  with  anchovy  paste  or  anchovy 
but!er,  or  canapes  auz  anchois;  pieces  of  toast  with 
filleted  anchovies,  will  doubtless  like  canapes  au 
caviare.  These  are  all  good  ealad  accompaniments, 
and  as  anchovies  are  commonly  used  in  salads  there 
is  no  good  reason  why  caviare  might  not,  but^it  is 
more  likely  it  was  used  only  in  the  way  of  decora- 
tion. As  to  what  caviare  is — and  it  used  to  be 
termed  Russian  caviare  as  if  it  had  been  of  Russian 
invention — the  Scientific  American  gives  this  infor- 
mation : 

**FIyde  Park,  some  eighty-three  miles  up  the 
Hudson  River  from  New  York,  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal fishing  stations  for  sturgeon,  whose  roe,  when 
properly  prepared,  is  known  as  caviare,  a  food 
preparation  greatly  enjoyed  by  our  German  and 
French  ciizens,  not  to  forget  the  Russians,  to  whom 


we  export  large  quantities  every  year.  The  roe 
weighs  about  one  third  as  much  as  the  fish,  A  fifty 
pound  roe  is  considered  a  large  roe.  thirty  pounds 
being  the  average.  As  soon  as  the  sturgeons  reach 
shore  they  are  opened  and  the  roes  taken  out. 
Masses  of  roe  are  rubbed  through  wire  selves.  The 
eggs  are  then  salted  for  a  short  time,  after  which 
they  are  laid  on  hair  selves  to  drain  oflF.  When 
thoroughly  drained  what  was  but  a  short  time  ago 
only  halibut  spawn,  is  now  the  toothsome  caviare  of 
which  thousands  of  pounds  are  annually  spread  on 
bread  and  eaten  with  much  relish." 

Caviare,  like  every  other  eatable  thing,  can  now 
be  bought  in  cans.  It  is  black  nearly  as  truffles. 
Softened  with  a  little  warm  butler  it  can  be  used 
with  good  effect  to  ornament  dishes  of  fish  galads  in 
piping  and  leaf  patterns.  In  the  times  when  fash- 
ionable ladies  used  to  decorate  their  faces  with  huge 
patches  of  fancy  patterns  stamped  out  of  court 
plaster,  and  white  and  yellow  dishes  on  the  table 
had  the  same  done  for  them  with  trrffle  slices,  it  is 
very  likely  a  similar  service  was  required  for  fish 
en  mayonaise,  of  the  high-flavored  caviare. 

7S8,     Salads  and  Bills  of  Pare. 

There  will  be  a  question,  now  that  we  are  to  de- 
scribe the  more  formal  dinner  salads,  as  to  their 
proper  place  ia  the  bill  of  fare,  and  it  would  be  ex- 
tremely convenient  if  the  bills  in  use  the  world  over 
would  kindly  keep  themselves  according  to  a  few 
definite  patterns  as,  say,  French,  Russian,  English 
and  American.  In  fact,  however,  among  fifty  model 
menus  of  European  court  dinners  there  are  scarcely 
two  alike  in  their  arrangement  of  dishes  and  head- 
ings, and  the  promiscuous  bills  of  fare  of  American 
hotels  do  not  vary  more  in  their  minor  features  than 
those  of  the  palaces  of  the  European  nations.  The 
slight  differences  betwixt  salads  and  the  cold 
hors-d'oeuvre  often  make  it  appear  as  if  salads  ap- 
peared in  two  places  on  the  same  bill.  The  follow- 
ing examples  will,  however,  show  the  general  usages 
in  this  respect.  The  first  menu,  chosen  for  its 
brevity,  contains  the  intermediate  frozen  punch 
which  has  come  to  be  regarded  the  distinguishing 
feature  of  the  thorough  French  menu,  although  in 
the  collection  before  us  it  appears  so  rarely  as  to 
seem  more  the  exception  than  the  rule. 


FAMILLE  ROYALE  DE  BAVIERE. 


Potage  Tortue    Potage  a  la  Reine 

Petits  Croustades,  a  la  Montglas. 

Seibling  a  la  sauce  hoUandaise. 

Jambon  a  la  Rothschild. 

Bceuf  braise  a  la  jardiniere. 


184 


THE  AHEBIOAN  COOK. 


Gotelettes  d'agneau  aux  haricots  verts. 

Dinde  a  la  Toulouse. 

Grives  a  la  Joinville. 

Pate  foie  gras  a  la  gelee. 

Punch  a  la  Komainb. 

Faisans  et  chapons  rotis. 
Salade  de  Laitues. 

Asperges  sauce  a  la  creme. 

Beignets  a  la  Francaise,  Marasquin. 

Gelee  de  paises  au  champagne. 


Servi  a  la  cour  de  Munich. 


The  general  usage  in  a  menu  of  the  above  descrip- 
tion is  for  the  salads  to  appear  with  the  game.  The 
next,  the  mrnu  of  one  of  President  Buchanan's  din- 
ners and  evidently  a  very  proper  one,  does  no*, 
however,  mention  salad  in  the  usual  place. 


PRESIDENCE   DES  ETATS-UNIS  D'AMERIQUE, 
WASHINGTON. 


Hors  d'oeuvre 

Poisson. 

Brieves. 

Entrees. 


Rots. 
Entremets. 


Potage  torlue  vert. 

Petits  croustades  a  la  Reine. 

Fillets  de  basse  rayee  au  gratin. 

Langues  de  veau  a  la  bechamel. 
Dinde  sauvage  a  la  Regence. 

Gotelettes  de  mouton  a  la  Soubise. 

Boudins  de  perdreaux  a  la  Richelieu 

Supreme  de  volaille  aux  truffles. 

Pain  de  gibiere  a  la  belle-vue. 

Sorbets  a  l'Americaine. 


Canvas-back  ducko. 
Faisans  bardes  au  jus 

Petits  pois  et  asperges. 

Charlotte  Riisse 
Macedoine  de  fruits. 
Abricots  a  la  conde. 


In  the  following  example  sliced  cucumbers  accom- 
paoy  the  fish  and  heart  lettuces  the  game  be^ow. 
This  was  for  a  dinner  of  20  covers  only. 


MENU. 


Consomme  de  volaille,  aux  quenelles, 
Bouchees  au  Salpicon. 


Bass  rayee,  grille,  maitre  d' hotel 


Selle  d'agneau,  Regence. 


Salad  concombres. 
Croquettes  de  pommes. 


Petits  Filets  de  boeuf,  saute,  aux  truffles. 
Ris  de  veau,  en  croustade. 

PouleS  a  la  Dauphine. 


Tomates  farcies 

Celeriau  jus 

SOBBET. 

Imperiale. 

Petits  poig 

Becasses  en  canap 

es 

Coeur  de  laitue 

Pouding  Diplomatique      Blanc  mange  au  marasquin 

Corbeille  Florentine  nux  marrons  glaces  et  deguises 

Forme  de  fruits  Napolitaine    Petits  fours 


Desseht  et  Fruits. 


WINDSOR, 
Saratoga  springs, 
August  26, 1878. 


Another  American  example  of  this  form  of  menu 
for  a  banquet  for  250  persons. 


BANQUET 

COMPLIMENTMIY  TO 

GENERAL  U.  S.  GRANT, 

By  the  Middlesex  Club. 

OYSTERS. 

(Haute  Sauterne) 

SOUP. 

Puree  of  Chicken,  a  la  Princesse        Imperial  Broth 

(Cabinet  Sherry) 

PISH. 

Boiled  Turbot,  a  la  Cardinal 

Potatoes  HoUandaisc 

(Chablis) 

REMOVES. 

Young  Turkey,  with  Celery,  a  la  Creme 

Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Braized,  a  la  Rothschild 

(Pomery  Sec.     Mumm's  Ex.  Dry.) 

ENTREES. 

Sweetbreads  en  Chartreuse,  a  la  Moderne 

Potted  Quail,  a  la  Royal  Truffles  au  Champagne 

Vbnbtian  Shbrbbt. 

GAME. 
English  Pheasant      Canvas-back  Duck      Woodcock 
Dressed  Celery      Cressons      Lettuce 
(La  Ro?e,  1868.) 
VEGETABLES. 
French  Peas     Cauliflower      Tomatoes      Flageolets 
Champignon'?  Epinards  Veloutes 

DESSERTS. 
Meringues  Chantilly    Jelly  au  Macedoine 
Macaroons  Eclaires  au  Chocolate 

Charlotte  Parisienne    Napolitaine  Ices 


Confectionery 
Bananas 
Peans 

Fancy  Cake 
Oranges 

(Burgundy) 
Coffee. 
*  Thb  Brunswick,  "  Boston, 
Oct.  13,  1880. 


Hamburg  Grapes 
Malaga  Grapes 
Savarin 
Fruit  Ices 

Brandy  Figs 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


185 


Just  one  more  bill,  parted  in  the  middle,  from  a 
land  of  salads. 


FAMILLE  ROYALE  D'lTALIE. 


Potage  d'orge,  al'Ecassaiae 


EeleTes 

Turbot  a  la  Bordelaise 
Noie  de  Veau  a  la  Gastronome 

Entrees 

Poulardes  aux  points  d'asperges 

Caillea  a  la  Richelieu 

Aspio  a  la  Dominicaine 

Legumes 

Artichautes  a  la  Barigoule 

Hors  d'oeuvre 

Jambon  de  York,  a  la  Qelee 

PWNCH  AU  KlRtCH 

Rots 

Faisans  Peques 

Venaison 

Salades 

Dessert,  Etc. 


Examining  the  following  footprints  of  the  depart- 
ed great  we  find  a  lobster  salad  among  the  entrees. 


FAMILLE  ROYAL  DE  PRUSSE. 

Diner  de  24  converts  a  Potsdam,  oflfert  par  la  cour 

de  Prusse  a  S.  M.  I'Empereur  de  Russie.  1867. 


Potages 
Hors  d'oeuvre 
Poissons 
Releves 

Entrees 


Rots 


Legumes 


Ekitremets 


Consomme  de  volaille  a  la  Royal 
Potage  tortue  a  la  Francaise 

Tartelettes  de  nouilles  au  foie  gras 
Oannelons  a  la  puree  de  gibier 

Turbot  garni,  stuce  aux  huitres 
Dame  de  Saumon,  sauce  crevettes 

Boeuf  fume  de  Hamburg,  legumes  va- 
ries 

Langue  de  Veau  de  Pontoise 
Tomates  et  cepes  Provencale 

Cotelettes  de  daim  aux  champignons 
Filets  de  poulets  aux  points  d'asper- 
ges, sauce  supreme 
Homards  a  la  gelee,  sauce  mayonnaise 
Galantines  decaillesauxtruflfes,  sauce 
Cumberland 

Dindonneaux  piques 
Faisans  de  Buheme 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  moelle 
Petits  pois  a  la  Francaise 

Ponding  souffle  a  la  vanille 

Croutes  aux  cerise:',  a  ia  Montmorency 

Gelee  muse -'vi! e  garnie  d'ananas 

Charlotte  printaniere  aux  fraises 

Glaces — Compotes — Dessert 


At  that  meeting  of  the  emperors  they  ought  to 
have  had  a  diplomatic  pudding  and  a  crawfish  salnd 
or  two,  by  aU  means,  for  of  course  one  party  had  to 
eat  craw,  if  the  other  did  endanger  the  piece  of 
Europe. 


And  we  find  another  salad  among  the  entrees,  as 
well  as  cress  with  the  rots. 


FAMILLE  IMPERIALE  DE  FRANCE. 


Potages 
Hors  d'oeuvre 
Grosses  Pieces 


Entrees 


Rots 
Entremets 


Pot-au-feu    Pates  d'ltalie 

Petits  Pates  au  natural 

Saumon  a  la  sauce  Gerevoise 

Pieces  de  Boeuf  a  la  Jardiniere 

Rossif  garni  de  croquettes 

Tete  de  veau  en  tortue 
Petites  timbales  a  la  Lavalliere 
Grenadins  a  la  chicoree 
Supreme  de  volaille  aux  points  d'as- 
perges 

Chaupoix  de  foie  gras 
Salade  de  filets  de  eoles,  a  la  ravigotte 

Faisans  et  chapons  au  cresson 

Artichauts  frits 

Choux-fleurs,  sauce  au  beurre 

Haricots  verts  sautes 

Epinards  au  veloute 

Cbailotte  russe  au  chocolat 

Timbale  de  poires  a  I'ltalienne 

Gelee  m^cedoine  de  fruits 

Pains  la  Mecque 

Dessert. 

Diner  servi  a  la  cour  de  France 
en  1860. 


186 


THE  AMEBICAN  OOOK. 


S&lads  appear  but  rarely  in  the  English  royal 
dinner  menus.  The  annexed  has  one  classed  with 
the  entremets,  as  if  in  an  American  hotel  bill  we 
■hould  place  lobster  salad  among  the  vegetables. 


FAMILLE  ROYALE  D'ANGLETERRE. 


Potages 

Poissons 

Releves 

Entrees 

Rots 

Releves 

Entremets 

Side  table 


Puree  de  vohille,  a  la  Reine. 
Consomme  aux  Pates. 


Traoches  de  cabillaud 
Eperlaus  pits 

Cuissot  de  [chevreuil,  sauce  poivrade 
Poulardes  et  langues,  aux  chaux- 
fleurs 

Troncons  de  anguilles,  a  la  Perigord 
Rissolettes  de  volaille,  a  la  Pompa- 
dour 
Saute  de  filets  de  Perdreaux 
Noix  de  veau,  a  la  chicoree 


Grouses  aujus 
Poulardes,  bread  sauce 

Pudding  de  cabinet 
Gaufres  a  la  Flamande 


Celeri  a  TEapagnole 

Salade  de  homards 

Flan  de  Pommes  Meringuees 

Biscottes  glacees 

Roast  beef 
Roast  Mutton 


Thirteen  cooks  of  note^took  part  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  above  dinner;  their  names  are  all  duly 
appended,  with  the  date  1858. 


It  would  be  a  relief  to  anyone  after  scanning  three 
score  and  ten  such  menus  as  the  foregoing  and  find- 
ing the  salads  wandering  up  and  down  in  the  bills 
and  going  to  and  fro  in  the  midst  of  them,  to  be  able 
to  give  them  a  local  habitation  and  a  place  all  their 
own,  as  happily  we  do  in  our  American  hotel  bill 
of  fare,  the  form  that  is  unborrowed,  that  contains 
some  features  of  all  the  precediog  specimens,  yet  is 
different  from  all,  and  more  suitable  to  the  habits 
and  customs  of  the  people.  Some  of  the  most  re 
nowned  hotels  of  the  United  States  use  the  exact 
form  following,  and  a  very  large  number  beside 
only  make  the  one  or  two  changes  of  placing  ttie  list 
of  boiled  meats  above  instead  of  beside  the  roasts, 
and  substituting  the  line  "cold  dishes  and  salads" 
for  mayonaise,  dispensing  with  the  cold  meats  head. 
ing  altogether. 


DINNER. 


LITTLB  KECK  CLAMS. 
SOUP. 

Terrapin  Printaniere 

FISH. 

Boiled  Kennebec  Salmon,  lobster  sauce 

Potatoes  Hollandaise 
BOILED.  ROAST. 

Turkey,  parsley  sauce  Ribs  of  Beef 

Corned  beef,  with  new  cabbage       Turkey,  etuflfed 
Leg  of  mutton,  caper  sauce     Spring  lamb,  mint  Sauce 
Beins,  with  pork 
COLD  MEATS. 
Boned  turkey  Pate  de  foie  gras 

ENTREES. 
Fillet  of  beef,  larded,  with  mushrooms 
Wild  pigeon,  en  compote 

Spring  lamb  chops,  with  green  peas 

Orange  fritters,  maraschino  Flavor 

VEGETABLES. 

New  potatoes  Tomatoes  Green  peas 

Cauliflower      Cream  spinach      Asparagus 

Macaroni,  Napolitaine 

MAYONNAISE. 

Chicken  Lobster 

Lettuce 

SWEETS  AND  DESSERT. 

Plum  pudding,  brandy  sauce 

Rhubarb  pie  Peach  pie 

Catawba  jelly  Biscuit  glace 

Fancy  cakes,  etc. 

Vanilla  ice  cream  Roman  punch 

Strawberries,  with  cream 

Fruits,  nuts,  crackers  and  cheese 

Coffee 

CoNTiNBNTAL  HoTBL,  Philadelphia, 

May  9,  1880. 


The  next  example  of  the  American  hotel  bill  of 
fare  is  patterned  after  the  menus  of  a  very  elegant 
New  York  City  hotel.  It  shows  where  the  salads 
may  be  found  always,  without  necessitating  search 
through  hors-d'oeuvres  entrees  and  entremets. 


DINNER. 

SOUP. 
Puree  of  chicken,  a  la  Pnncesse 

Consomme  Desclignao 


PISH. 

Boiled  Turbot,  a  la  Cardinal 

Potatoes  HoUandaise. 


BOILED. 
Turkey,  oys*er  sauce 

Tongue,  c<iper  siuce 
Ham 


ROAST. 
Ribs  of  beef  au  jus 
Lamb,  Venetian  sauce 
Wild  duck,  app'e  sauce 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


187 


ENTREES. 
Sweetbreads  en  Chartreuse 

Potted  Quail,  a  la  Royale 

Macaroni  and  Cheese,  Sicilienne 

COLD  DISHES  AND  SALADS. 

Chicken  Salad     Lobster  in  Shell      Sliced  Tomatoes 

Smoked  Tongue      Boned  Turkey  en  Aspic 


VEGETABLES. 
Potatoes  boiled,  mashed,  browned 

Corn  Tomatoes 


Green  Peas 


Grape  Pie 


SWEETS  AND  DESSERT. 

Lemon  Meringue  Pie 
Cibinet  Pudding 
Neapolitan  Ice  Cream      Blanc  Mange  au  Maraequin 
Assorted  Cakes  Fruits  Nuts 

COFrBB. 


Salads  and  Cold  Dishes  from  Foreign 
Menus. 


The  following  will  be  found  suggestive  not  only  of 
new  or  nearly  forgotten  dishes  to  malse  in  this  de- 
partment, but  of  different  names  or  ways  of  writing 
the  same  thing. 

Buisson  de  petits  homards. 

Mayonaise  de  homards. 

A  pic  de  langoustes. 

Aspic  de  homards. 

Homards  en  coquilles. 

Homards  en  belle  vue. 

Mayonaise  de  langoustes  en  bordure. 

Salade  de  homards  en  coquille. 

Lobster  salad  with  plover's  eggs. 

Lobster  au  gratin.  (in  one  royal  menu  stands  in 
the  salrid's  place  with  the  rots.) 

Salade  de  ques  d'ecrivisses  (crayfish  tails.) 

Salade  d'ecrivisses,  a  la  gelee. 

Crayfish,  plain. 

Buisson  d'ecrivisses 

Groups  of  large  crayfish. 

Aspic  of  plovers  eggs  and  prawns. 

Buisson  of  prawns  sur  socle. 

Aspic  de  crevettes  (shrimpp.) 

Salade  de  filets  de  soles,  a  la  Parisienne. 

Salade  de  eaumon,  a  la  Russe. 

Salade  Russe  au  thon  (tunny.) 

Fillets  de  saumon  a  la  mayonaise. 

Mayonaise  de  fillets  de  soles. 

Dame  of  salmon  with  Montpellier  butter. 


Salad  of  file's  of  fowls  a  la  belle- vue. 
Mayonaise  of  chicken. 
Sliced  galantine  with  jelly. 
Salade  de  volaille. 


Poulets  grss,  a  la  gelee,  sauce  remoulade. 
Galantine  de  volaille,  a  la  gelee. 

Italian  salads  in  decorated  aspic  borders. 

Salade  de  legumes  garnie  de  saumon  fume  (with 

smoked  salmon.) 
Salade  a  la  Russe. 
German  salad. 
Salsify  en  mayonaise. 
Salade  de  legumes,  a  Tltalienne. 
Salade  de  laitues. 
Haricots  verts  en  salade. 
Potato  chips  (once  in  salads  place.) 
Choucroute  aux  huitres. 
Salade  Italienne  en  belle-vue. 
Salade  de  chicoree. 

The  last  named  salad  is  found  in  the  menu  of  a 
German  duke's  grand  dinner.  "In  Holland  and 
Belgium,  white  chicory  is  sold  at  a  cheap  rate  early 
in  the  spring,  and  supplies  a  grateful  salad  long  be- 
fore lettuces  are  to  be  had."  Endive  and  succory 
are  other  names  for  chicory. 


The  definite  object  in  view  in  bringing  in  the 
foregoing  perhaps  somewhat  formidable  looking 
mass  of  French  is  to  discover  what  the  best  Euro- 
pean bill  of  fare  composers  and  cooks  do  when  they 
do  their  highest  endeavors  for  the  greatest  occasions 
that  can  arise  in  their  particular  world,  and  not  at 
all  to  lead  any  callow  geese  on  this  side  to  copy  and 
use  the  imposing  words  they  do  not  understand. 
We  must  have  a  standard  to  judge  American  hotel 
work  by,  and  as  far  as  names  and  words  can  go  to 
give  an  idea,  these  imperial  menus  and  the  salad 
dishes  culled  from  many  others  mark  the  topmost 
notch.  There  are  some  American  hotels,  their 
menu  writers,  caterers  and  cooks,  who  would  not 
consent  to  be  ranked  below  the  European  in  any- 
thing, even  in  salads.  However,  there  can  be  no 
dispute,  for  after  we  have  learned  what  they  make 
there  remains  the  greater  question  of  perfection  of 
work,  skill,  readiness,  dexterity,  and  good  taste, 
and  that  will  always  remain  open.  Salads  made 
only  to  look  at  are  out  of  place  in  a  hotel.  Orna- 
mentation that  consumes  hours  of  time  is  impracti- 
cable where  a  new  banquet  comes  on  every  day.  In- 
stead of  one  great  dish  of  salad  we  have  a  hundred 
or  two  little  dishes.  Every  person  at  table  if  he 
chooses  has  a  complete  dish  to  himself.  Whatever 
fixing  up  is  to  be  done  must  be  done  quickly  or  it 
will  not  be  done  at  all. 

A  great  check  might  be  put  upon  the  vulgar  use 
of  spurious  French  in  bills  of  fare  if  guests  and  em- 
ployers were  to  grow  inquisitive  and  quizzical,  de- 
manding to  know  what  each  word  means,  of  who- 
ever wrote  it.  There's  a  nice  new  game  for  winter 
time. 


188 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


729.    Dressed  Crab. 

Pick  the  meat  from  Ihe  shell  and  claws,  cut  the 
solid  parts  into  small  pieces,  dry  the  soft  part  with 
the  addition  of  a  spoonful  of  fine  bread  crumbs, mix 
all  with  a  little  oil,  vinegar  and  mu^^tard.  Wash 
and  dry  the  shells  and  serve  the  meat  in  thfm 
placed  on  a  bed  uf  something  green — lettuce,  cress, 
young  celery  plants  or  parsley. 


729  a.    Potato  Salad  Plain. 

1  pint  bowl  of  cooked  and  sliced  potatoes. 
1  small  onion,  sl'ce  J  or  chopped. 
J  cupful  of  vinegar.     Parsley,  salt,  pepper. 
1  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil, or  of  fried  bacon  fat. 
Mix  all  together  by  pouring  from  one  bowl  to  an- 
other and  shaking  up. 

Hotel  Dinner  Salads. 


"Insipid?  Gastronomic  heresy !  There  is  nothing 
better  than  the  potato.  I  eat  them  done  in  all  the 
diflFerent  ways,  and  should  they  appear  in  the 
second  course,  whether  a  la  lyonaise  or  au  souffle,  I 
hereby  enter  a  protest  for  the  preservation  of  my 
rights." — Savarin.  (Mem.  To  send  them  in  also  en 
salade.) 

A  thorough  first  class  cook  of  a  first  class  hotel 
would  not  like  to  send  to  the  dinner  table  the  in- 
formal salads  of  the  preceding  part,  which,  however, 
do  very  well  for  ordinary  supper  and  lunch,  besides 
serving  as  examples  for  the  employment  of  the  half 
dozen  salad  dressings  already  described. 


730.    Parisian  Potato  Salad. 


POMMES   PABISIENNE   EN   MAYONAISE. 

Parisian  potatoes  are  so  called  when  scooped  out 
of  large  potatoes  with  a  scoop  which  forms  them  in 
balls  of  the  size  and  appearance  of  white  cherries,  or 
a  little  larger  or  smaller,  for  the  scoops  are  sold  of 
different  sizes. 


1.  Make  the  mayonaise  sauce  in  the  quick  way 
with  bowl  and  egg-beater,  directed  in  the  beginiung 
of  this  book,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  made  mus- 
tard and  a  very  little  cayenne. 

Scoop  out  about  two  quarts  of  Parisienne  potatoes, 
set  them  on  to  boil  in  cold  mik  and  water  with  a 
little  salt  in  it,  and  take  them  off  when  just  done, 
before  they  break  out  of  shape.  Drain  in  a  colander 
and  set  away  to  get  cold. 

Also  scoop  out  about  a  cupful  of  cooked  blood 
beets,  to  match  ihe  potatoes,  and  cover  the  beet  balls 
with  vinegar. 

Just  before  dinner  set  out  from  15  to  25  small  flat 
dishes  (for  the  probable  orders  of  50  persons  with  a 
varied  bill  to  choose  from).  Place  a  spoonful  of 
mayonaise  in  a  pan  or  bowl  and  shake  the   potatoes  ] 


about  in  it  to  co'^i  them.  Pile  8  or  9  in  each  dish, 
draw  a  spoonful  of  m-yonaise  over  so  as  to  mask 
them,  and  finish  by  placing  with  two  forks  3  or  4  of 
the  beet  balls  around  for  ornament. 


2.  Large  dishes  can  be  put  up  in  the  same  gen- 
eral way,  the  beets  may  then  be  placed  in  a  row  or 
two  diagonally  across  the  top,  as  well,  and  some 
parsley  added,  giving  the  effect  of  a  wreath  of  ber- 


3.  It  is  worth  while  to  know  that  when  the  po- 
tatoes are  of  a  mealy  sort  that  break  in  the  water 
they  are  better  simmered  till  done  in  frei-h  butter, 
first  melted  and  poured  off  the  salt  sediment,  but 
not  made  fryi -g  hot.  The  potatoes  are  not  to  be 
allowed  to  become  in  the  least  brown,  nor  even  to 
have  a  hard  skin  fried  on  them;  only  gently  stewed 
in  butter.  The  butter  can  afterwards  be  used  for 
frying,  etc. 

4.  Instead  of  repeating,  the  next  time  use  the 
allemande  salad  dressing,  which,  if  made  with  ua- 
colored  butter,  is  pearl  white,  and  ornameiit  with 
parsley,  and  a  few  capers  on  top,  or  pickled  nastur- 
tium seeds  or  pods,  or  some  pickled  red  cabbage 
chopped  and  drained  from  its  vinegar,  the  beets  in 
this  case  being  left  out. 

T31.   Beet  and  Potato  Salad. 


Cut  some  cooked  blood  beets  with  ycur  sabalier 
scollop  knife  into  cubes  or  dice  shapes  with  flu'.ed 
sides,  and  keep  the  cut  shapes  in  vinegar. 

Prepare  some  Parisienne  potatoes — there  thould 
be  about  a  quart  of  each— and  the  allemande  salad 
dressing.  Pile  a  few  of  the  beet  shapes  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  dishes,  place  the  potatoes  aroucd  es  a 
border,  and  with  a  tablespoon  pour  the  sauce  ever 
the  potatoes,  leaving  the  beets  of  their  natural  color. 
Ornament  with  a  hasty  sprig  of  parsley  to  each 
dish. 


"Characterless  people  who  are  like  sa'sify  that  is 
always  just  going  to  taste  like  an  oyster  and  never 
does." — Talmage. 

("Was  ofien  thought  but  ne'er  so  well  expressed." 
Mem.     To  give  salsify  a  chance  in  allemande  dress- 


T33. 


Salsify  Salad. 


SALSIFIS  EN  MAYONAISE. 

Wash  the  salsify  roo's  and  shave  off  the  outsid?, 
throw  them  in  cold  water  with  salt  in  it  and  set 
them  on  to  boil.  Try  with  a  fork  to  know  when 
done.  Salsify  requires  an  hour  or  more  to  cook. 
After  draining  from  the  hot  water  put  it  immediae- 
ly  in  a  pan  of  cold  to  keep  it  of  good  color. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


189 


1.  Cut  (he  Falsify  across  in  round  lozenge  shapes 
as  nearly  rf  one  size  as  prsssible.  Put  it  in  a  bowl 
and  pour  over  it  the  allemaudo  salad  dressing  with 
a  little  Chili  vinegar  mixed  in. 

Salsify  is  best  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  aficr  it 
has  ha  I  the  winter  frosts,  and  garden  cress  can  then 
be  had  for  garnish.  Make  a  border  of  cress  on  the 
small  flat  dish  or  saucer  and  p!ace  a  spoonful  of  the 
8  ilsify  and  its  dressing  in  the  middle. 


2.  Cut  the  salsify  i  i  lengths  of  about  2  inches, 
not  using  the  largest  roots  for  this  purpose.  Place 
3  or  4  cf  the  pieces  on  each  dish,  diagonally  across 
the  dish,  and  pour  over  the  pile  a  spoonful  of  thick 
mayonaise.  It  is  better  if  the  pieces  of  salsify  can 
steep  in  oil  and  vinegar,  enough  to  moisten  them, 
awhile  before  dinner. 


The  cream  hollandaise,  or  the  other  dressings,  can 
of  course  be  used  instead  of  the  two  preceding,  and 
salsify  does  well  to  mix  in  salads  with  other  vegeta- 
bles. 


The  mak'ng  of  the  allemande  dressin  is  not  so 
simple  but  that  it  may  be  easily  spoiled  if  the  oil 
and  cream  be  added  too  hastily.  Probably  a  half 
cup  more  cf  cream  will  be  needed  than  the  re- 
ceipt calls  for,  and  it  should  not  be  ice  cold  nor 
added  faster  than  a  spoonful  at  a  time.  This 
dressing  is  valuable  for  needing  no  eggs  and  but 
little  oil,  and  is  suitable  for  all  sorts  of  vegetables. 


"We  Florentines  mostly  use  names  as  wo  do 
prawns,  and  strip  them  of  all  flourishes  before  we 
trust  them  to  our  throats." — Romola. 

The  prawn  is  a  larger  kind  of  shrimp  and  for 
the  cook's  purposes  is  the  same  thing.  It  has 
longer  horns,  feelers  or  flourishes  than  the  shrimp, 
which  causes  it  to  be  preftrred  for  a  buisson;  it  is  of 
lighter  color  when  coaked,  and  in  the  markets 
usually  sells  for  a  lower  price  than  the  shrimp. 


T33. 


Shrimp  Salad. 


MAYONAISE  OF  SHRIMPS  OR  PRAWNS,    OR  SHRIMPS 
(CREVETTES)  EN  MAYONAlSE. 

1  Prepare  about  a  quart  of  shrimps  divested  cf 
their  coat  of  maii,  fails,  heads  and  flourishes,  and 
place  them  in  a  bowl. 

Make  the  thin  mayonaise  or  salad  cream  and  pour 
it  over  the  shrimps. 

Take  some  heads  of  lettuce  from  the  pan  of  ice- 
water  in  which  they  have  lain,  shake  them  free 
from  wafer  and  shred  them  as  fine  as  possible  with 
a  sharp  knife,  on  a  clean  board  kept  for  the  pur- 
pose.    About  enough  to  fill  a  2  quart  pan  will  do. 

Place  a  li-.tle  pile  of  the  lettuce  in  the  email,  deep 
dish,  ice  cream  saucer  or  deep  glass  plate;  mnke  a 
hollow  in  the  middle,   forming  a  border  of  lettuce, 


and  in  the  hollow  place  a  gooi  spoonful  of  the 
shrimps  and  dressing.  Dish  up  these  only  as  reed- 
ed, for  the  lettuce  soon  dries  and  loses  its  color. 


2.  Make  the  thick  mayonaise,  or  el^e  use  that 
termed  American  Falad  dressing,  made  of  about  the 
same  consis  ence. 

Prepare  the  shrimps,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  pour  in 
a  basting-spoonful  of  vinegar,  two  of  oil,  a  little 
white  pepper,  and  shake  about,  making  the  shrimps 
look  moist  and  shining. 

Prepare  small  white  hearts  of  letfuce,  one  f  r 
each  individual  dish,  pull  them  apart  and  lay  the 
leaves  slantwise,  wreath  fashion,  around  the  dish. 
Place  a  neat  spoonful  of  the  seasoned  shrimps  in  the 
center  and  over  them  pour  or  spread  a  spoonful  of 
the  mayonaise. 


3.  For  a  large  dish  like  the  preceding  fill  the 
shrimps,  after  seasoning  with  oil  and  vinegar,  into 
a  melon  mould  (a  mould  in  shape  of  half  a  melon), 
and  slighly  press  to  give  them  the  shape.  Turn 
them  out  onto  a  flat  dish  already  prepared  with 
leaves  of  heart  lettuce.  Pour  the  mayonaise  over 
the  shrimps  and  decorate  with  eggs,  olives,  parsley, 
cut  shapes  of  beets,  flowers,  etc. 

4.  Having  seasoned  ths  shrimps  shape  them  for 
individual  dishes  by  pressing  a  spoonful  into  a  cus- 
tard cup,  or  egg  cup  or  similar  mould. 

Prepare  about  a  quart  of  celery  by  chopping  it 
fine  and  seasoning  in  like  manner  as  the  shrimps, 
with  oil,  vinegar  and  white  pepper,  adding  a  little 
salt  also. 

Turn  the  shrimps  on  to  their  dish  and  place 
a,round  a  border  of  the  celery  with  a  teaspoon. 
Finish  with  a  spoonful  of  mayonaise  on  top  of  the 
shrimps.  Or  the  mayonaise  may  be  dispensed  with, 
or,  leave  the  shrimps  without  a  dressing,  and  pour 
the  allemande  dressing  from  a  spoon  over  the  celery 
border. 


6.  Place  a  neat  spoonful  of  shrimps — either  sea- 
soned or  not,  as  the  time  may  allow — on  the  small 
flat  dish,  and  over  the  top  spread  a  spoonful  of  may- 
onaise. Throw  3  or  4  capers  iu  the  center,  p'ace  2 
or  3  quarters  of  h  ird-boiled  egg  around,  or  3  or  4 
olives,  like  the  beet  balls  on  the  potato  salad,  or  uee 
both,  and  any  other  ornament  such  as  cress  or 
parsley  that  may  be  at  hand. 


6.  Reverse  the  order  of  any  of  the  foregoing, 
when  the  shrimps  ere  of  good  shape,  and  hand- 
somely coiled,  by  making  a  pile  of  shred  lettuce  or 
chopped  celery  in  the  middle  and  placing  the 
shrimps  feround  a^^d  upon  it.  A  very  pretty  mix- 
ture may  be  made  of  shrimps  in  cress,  or  water 
cress,  without  any  other  dressing. 


190 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


And  now  we  cannot  well  go  further  without  some 
aspic  jelly,  and  will  proceed  to  make  it. 


"What  a  perfect  family!"  exclaimed  Hugo,  as  he 
extracted  a  couple  of  fat  little  birds  from  their  bed 
of  aspic  jelly.  "Everything  they  do  in  such  perfect 
taste.  How  safe  you  were  here  to  have  ortolans  for 
supper! ' '  — Lothair, 


"Garnished  with  cut  carrots,  like  a  made  dish  in 
Bloomsbury  Square." — Pelham. 

"The  dinner  was  a  banquet — a  choice  boquet  be- 
fore every  guest,  turtle  and  venison  and  piles  of 
whitebait,  and  pineapples  of  prodigious  size,  and 
bunches  of  grapes  that  had  gained  prizes.  The 
champagne  seemed  to  flow  in  fountains,  and  was 
only  interrupted  that  the  guest  might  quaff  Bur- 
gundy or  taste  Tokay.  But  what  was  more  de- 
lightfr.l  than  all  was  the  enjoyment  of  all  present, 
and  especially  of  their  host.  That  is  a  rare  sight- 
Banquets  are  not  rare,  nor  choice  guests,  nor  gra- 
cious hosts:  but  when  do  we  ever  see  a  person  enjoy 
anything?' '  — Endymion. 


"Pantagruel  did  not  like  this  pack  of  rascally 
scoundrels,  with  their  manifold  kitchen  sacrifices, 
and  would  have  been  gone  had  not  Epistemon  pre- 
vailed with  him  to  stay  and  see  the  end  of  the  farce. 
He  then  asked  the  skipper  what  these  gastrolatous 
hobgoblins  used  to  sacrifice  to  their  god  Gaster  on 
interlarded  fish  days?  'For  his  first  course,*  said 
the  skipper,  'they  give  him  caviare,  potages,  then 
salads  a  hundred  varieties,  of  cresses,  sodden  hop- 
tops,  spinage,  celery,  sives,  rampions,  mushrooms, 
asparagus,  woodbind,  red  herrings,  pilchards,  an- 
chovies, fry  of  tunny,  pickled  eels,  cauliflowers, 
beans,  salt  salmon,  prawn?,  crayfish,  and  a  world 
of  others.*" — French  Classic. 


Everybody  had  an  appetite  fordinner  to-day,  and 
the  dinner  was  worthy  of  the  appetites.  Zenobia's 
husband  declared  to  himself  that  he  never  dined  so 
well,  though  he  gave  his  cAc/£500  a  year." — Endy- 


"  *And  now  you  think  of  remaining  here?'  said 
Mr.  Wilton. 

'No,'  said  the  lady,  'that  I  can  ^  ot  do.  I  lo^e 
everything  in  this  country  except  its  climate,  and, 
perhaps,  its  hotels.*" — Endymion. 


"'The  odd  thing  is,'  said  St.  Aldegonde,  'you 
never  can  get  anything  to  eat  in  these  houses.  Their 
infernal  cooks  spoil  everything  *  " — Lothair, 


"  'No,'  said  Harold,  'the  question  is,  whether  the 
English  climate  will  agree  with  me.  It's  deuced 
shifting  and  damp;  and  as  for  the  food,  it  would  be 


the  finest  thing  in  the  world  for  this  country  if  the 
Southern  cooks  would  change  their  religion,  g^t 
persecuted,  and  fly  to  England,  as  the  old  silk- 
weavers  did.'  'There  are  plenty  of  foreign  cooks 
for  those  who  are  rich  enough  to  pay  for  them,  I 
suppose,'  said  Mrs.  Transome,  'but  thf  y  are  un- 
pleasant people  to  have  about  one's  house  '  " — Felix 
Bolt, 

"  'The  blonde  misses  of  Aibion  see  nothing  in  the 
dull  inhabitants  of  their  brumous  isle,  which  can 
compare  with  the  ardor  and  vivacity  of  the  children 
of  the  South.  We  bring  our  sunshine  with  us.  My 
genius  would  use  itself  in  the  company  of  these 
rustics — the  poesy  of  my  art  can  not  be  understood 
by  these  carnivorous  insularies.'  " — Monsitur  le  chef 
Mirobolant. — Pendennis, 


"Then  Answered  Dingdong:  'I  bring  these  sheep 
out  of  a  country  where  the  very  hog?,  God  be  with 
us,  live  on  nothing  but  myrobolaus.'  " — French 
Classic. 


'  And  so,  with  a  nod,  he  walked  ofi"  to  the  cook's 
shop  at  the  corner  of  the  Vicolo  San  Nicolo,  and 
bought  him  half  a  loaf  of  black  bread  and  a  plate 
of  beans  and  oil,  upon  which  frugal  fare,  washed 
down  with  another  draught  from  the  green  pitcher, 
he  presently  made  his  solitary  meal.  His  rage  was 
over  now." — Lord  Brackenbury, 


Perhaps  a  little  familiarizing' talk  about  aspic  jelly 
will  do  more  good  than  the  bald  receipt  for  making 
it  alone.  For,  paradoxically  enough,  aspic  jelly  is 
the  one  unnecessary  article  that  we  cannot  possibly 
do  without  in  the  kitchen,  not  in  the  kitchen  of  a 
house  that  aims  to  be  above  the  garnish  of  cut  car- 
rots style  of  Bloomsbury  Square.  Aspic  jelly  is  one 
of  the  barriers,  greater  a  good  deal  than  mayonaise, 
which  shut  ofi"  the  European  style,  or,  more  strictly 
speaking,  French  cookery  from  the  popular  appre- 
ciation and  adoption.  You  have  opened  a  hotel. 
You  are  going  to  be  first  class.  Oh,  yes.  You  get  a 
foreign  cook,  but  instead  of  the  decided  improve- 
ment in  the  get-up  of  common  articles  which  you 
looked  for,  unless  he  be  a  very  reasonable  man  and 
quick  to  perceive  your  wishes  you  will  find  him, 
most  likely,  engaged  in  the  preparation  of  some  un- 
intelligible nonsensicalit'es  that  were  not  included 
in  your  plans  at  all.  He  thinks  you  must  have  your 
dishes  garnished,  ornamented,  and  he  is  not  the 
one  to  give  you  a  garnish  of  cut  carrots  or  turnips. 
He  will  place  around  your  dishes  "bold  croutons  of 
aspic  jelly,"  as  his  celebrated  masters  direct.  To 
get  this  he  will  bother  you  considerably,  ordering 
calves'  feet,  chickens,  pigs'  feet,  gravy  beef,  veal 
shanks,  gelatine,  lemons,  eggs,  flavorings  etc.  As 
you  are  not  intending  to  have  calves'  feet,  etc.,  on 
the  table,  perhaps  you  can't  see  the  use  of  all  these 


THE    AMERICAN  COOK. 


191 


things  and  will  forget  them  for  a  few  days,  to  the 
great  distress  of  the  cook.  And  when  they  do  come 
the  zealous  fellow  who  means  to  set  your  house  on 
the  very  top  pinnacle  of  first  classness  may  be  seen 
working  at  night  after  all  others  are  in  bed  doing 
what  seems  foolishness — but  he  is  carrying  on  his 
art.  And  after  that  supply  is  exhausted  and  a  new 
lot  of  materials  called  for  you  may  witk  ■»n  effort 
remember  that  there  was  on  the  table  a  dish  of  cold 
birds  in  a  bed  of  jelly,  whicn  one  or  two  out  of  fifcy 
persons — a  Lothair,  or  some  such  stranger — saw  and 
admired.  Yon  will  remember  the  shapes  or  the 
border  Ox  chopped  jelly  around  the  dishes  that 
sparkled  with  it  as  if  set  in  jewelry,  and  a  boned 
turkey  entirely  coated  with  transparent  jelly,  of 
which  somebody  sitting  near  said,  "How  pretty," 
and  "Is  it  good  to  eat?"  And  then  perhaps  you 
have  to  think  over  the  unsatisfactory  condition  of 
the  roasts  and  the  mashed  potatoes  and  conclude 
that  French  cookery  is  one  of  the  things  that  no 
fellow  can  understand,  while  the  cook,  discouraged, 
may  be  repeating  some  of  the  words  of  Monsieur 
Alcibiades  Mirobolant  above  quoted.  There  is  a 
want  of  mutual  understanding  in  these  matters. 
The  foreign  cook  knowing  that  these  extra  accom- 
p'ishments  are  what  make  him  different  from  the 
home-bread  article  is  apt  to  magnify  their  import- 
ance out  of  all  reason,  and  not  being  used  to  count 
the  cost  of  labor  and  material,  is  almost  sure  to  take 
the  longest  way  round  about  to  reach  the  desired 
end.  Hotel-keepers  want  French  cooks  with 
American  ways,  and  American  cooks  with  French 
knowledge.  It  is  French  to  know  how  to  make  and 
how  to  use  aspic  jelly.  For  that  reason  we  cannot 
quite  do  without  making  it  once  a  week,  and  this 
regardless  of  whether  people  call  for  it  or  not.  It 
is  well  known  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  existence. 
Doctor  Tanner  quite  receitly  lived  forty  days  and 
forty  nights  without  once  tasting  aspic  jelly;  but  it 
is  a  matter  of  fashion.  It  has  been  seen  that  aspic 
is  mentioned  often  in  the  loftiest  menus,  and  the 
initiated  are  cognizant  of  aspic  in  many  dishes  be- 
sides where  it  is  not  mentioned  by  name.  Because 
the  leaders  on  the  other  side  choose,  followers  on 
this  side  must.  The  most  delicate  flattery  of  their 
table  hotel-keepers  ever  receive,  and  generally  the 
most  highly  appreciated,  is  when  distinguished 
parties  look  on  admiringly  and  say,  "You  employ 
French  cooks,  don't  you?" — though  perhaps  Pompey 
and  Dina  "done  been  done  it  all  themselves." 
However,  distinguished  parties  never  say  that  when 
the  French  in  the  bill  of  fare  is  Choctaw.  Meat 
jelly  in  the  rough  is  no  foreigner,  however,  but  is 
native  everywhere.  The  English  name  is  savory 
jelly,  aspic  is  the  same  refined.  This  ought  to  be 
better  understood,  that  the  first  consideration  should 
be  to  make  and  keep  the  jelly  savory,  so  that  the 
meat  it  goes  with  is  improved  by  ir — the  jelly  com- 
bining several  fine  flavors  and  the  essence  of  choice 


game,  may  be  even  more  delicious  and  more  sought 
after  by  epicures  than  the  meat  itself.  That  is  where 
skill  and  refinement  in  cookery  come  in.  The  great 
raised  cold  pork  and  venison  pies  or  pastys,  the 
brawn  and  the  boars  head  on  the  oaken  tables  of 
Cedric  and  Athelstane,  the  Saxon  earles  of  Ivanhoe, 
were  filled  and  set  and  solid  with  aspic  jelly  in  the 
rough.  It  was  the  gravy  set  with  its  own  richness, 
but  dark  gray  and  looked  as  if  it  wanted  straining 
But  the  earls  were  invited  by  the  French  Prince 
John  and  his  nobles  to  a  feast,  and  there  was  a  fine 
bird  pie,  cold,  of  which  the  gravy  had  been  clarified. 
The  birds  were  so  rare  and  costly  as  to  be  almost 
priceless,  and  betwixt  them  the  aspic  jelly  had  been 
poured  and  looked  like  amber.  And  even  Athelstane 
appreciated  the  merits  of  that  pie  filled  with  delicate 
aspic,  for  after  he  had  gobbled  the  whole  business 
he  wiped  his  mouth  and  asked  what  that  thing  was 
that  was  so  good.  Now,  we  don't  want  to  say  that 
aspic  jelly,  taking  it  all  round,  is  better  than  rich 
gravy,  but  It  certainly  is  far  more  ornamental,  and 
while  you  are  making  it  to  serve  with  fat  little  reed 
birds  or  rice  birds  because  it  is  ornamental,  take 
cat  e  it  does  not  get  dosed  with  unsuitable  herbs  and 
vegetables,  and  then  stick  and  burn  on  the  bottom, 
and  taste  worse  than  scorched  beans.  The  cook  and 
confectioner  can  take  the  jelly  from  the  pigs-feet  keg 
and  bring  it  back  looking  as  clear  as  glass,  and 
when  broken  it  will  shine  "like  dew  on  the  gowan 
lying,"  but  the  demands  of  refined  cookery  will  not 
be  satisfied  unless  it  taste  as  good  as  it  looks. 

Y34.  

Sometimes  there  is  a  remainder  of  a  good  looking 
amber  clear  soup  left  over  that  sets  in  jelly  when 
cold,  and  you  say  involuntarily  to  yourself,  "how 
rich  that  was,  and  what  a  pity  to  throw  it  away." 
Perhaps  it  need  not  be.  It  will  make  savory  jelly 
for  something— for  pressed  corned  beef  and  the  like. 
But  when  there  is  a  surplus  of  the  broth  that  fowls 
and  turkeys  have  been  boiled  in  you  have  as  good  a 
material  for  aspic  as  can  be  made.  Understanding 
this  and  a  little  rule  or  two,  the  terrors  of  jelly- 
making  and  the  dark  mysteries  of  galantines  and 
aspic  salads  will  disappear. 

One  and  a  half  ounces  of  gelatine  to  a  quart  of 
water  will  make  jelly,  or 

One  ounce  of  gelatine  to  a  quart  of  good  broth,  and 
less  still,  the  stronger  the  broth  may  be. 

One  calf's  foot  boiled  in  3  quarts  of  water  will 
make  a  quart  of  jelly  without  any  ge'atine.  A  pig's 
foot  and  shank  does  the  same.  Fowls  either  old  or 
young  boiled  tender  in  the  liquor  are  necessary  for 
good  quality.  Veal  and  veal  shanks  and  coarse 
beef  are   also  used,  but  will  not  do  very  well  alone. 


"Supper  time  approaching,  Don  Quixote  retired 
to  bis  apartment,  and  Sancho  inquired  of  the  host 
what  they  could  have  to  eat.  The  landlord  told 
him  his  paiate  should  be  suited— for  whatever   thf 


193 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


air,  earth  and  sea  produced,  of  birds,  beast  or  fish, 
that  inn  was  abundantly  provided  with.  'There  is 
no  need  of  all  that,'  quoth  Sancho;  'roast  us  but  a 
couple  of  chickens,  and  we  shall  be  satisfied;  for  my 
master  hath  a  delicate  stomach,  and  I  am  no  glut- 
ton/ 

"  *As  for  chickens,*  said^the  mnkeeper,  'truly  we 
have  none,  for  the  kites  have  devoured  them/ 
'Then  let  a  pullet  be  roasted,'  said  Sancho;  'only  see 
that  it  be  tender.'  'A  pullet?  my  father!'  answered 
the  host;  faith  and  troth,  I  sent  about  fifty  yester- 
day to  the  city  to  be  sold;  but  excepting  pullets,  ask 
for  what  you  will.'  'Why,  then,'  quoth  Sancho, 
'e'en  give  us  a  good  joint  of  veal  or  kid,  for  they 
cannot  be  wanting.'  'Veal  or  kid?'  replied  the  host, 
*ah,  now  I  remember  we  have  none  in  the  house  at 
present,  for  it  is  all  eaten;  but  next  week  there  will 
be  enough  and  to  spare.'  'We  are  much  the  better 
for  that,'  answered  Sancho;  'but  I  dare  say  all 
these  deficiencies  will  be  made  up  with  plenty  of 
eggs  and  bacon.*  '  'Fore  heaven,*  answered  the 
host,  'my  customer  is  a  choice  guesser!  I  told  him 
I  had  neither  pullets  nor  hens,  and  he  expects  me 
to  have  eggsl  Talk  of  other  delicacies,  but  ask  no 
more  for  hens.'  'Bodyofmel"  quoth  Sancho,  'let 
us  come  to  something — tell  me  in  short  what  you 
have,  Master  Host,  and  let  us  have  done  with  your 
flourishes.'  'Then,*  quoth  the  inkeeper,  'what  I 
really  and  truly  have  is  a  pair  of  cow-heels,  that 
m^y  be  taken  for  calves'  feet;  or  a  pair  of  calves' 
/eet  that  are  like  cow-heels.  They  are  stewed  with 
peas,  onions  and  bacon,  and  at  this  very  moment 
are  crying  out,  'come  eat  mel  come  eat  mel'  'From 
this  moment  I  mark  them  as  my  own,'  quoth 
Sancho;  'let  nobody  lay  a  finger  on  them.  I  will 
pay  you  well,  for  there  is  nothing  like  them — give 
me  but  cow-heel,  and  I  care  not  a  fig  for  calves' 
feet.'  "—Don  Quixote. 


735. 


Aspic  Jelly. 


To  make  savory  jelly,  take 

12  pounds  of  meat  and  feet.  ' 

12  quarts  of  water. 

12  hours  to  boil  them  gently. 

12  cloves. 

1  bay  leaf. 

1  small  turnip. 

1  small  onion. 

1  carrot. 

1  rounded  tablespoonful  of  pepper. 

1      do  do  salt. 

3  to  6  lemons,  juice  only. 

6  eggs  to  clarify  the  jelly. 
As  has  been  already  intimated  it  makes  but  little 
difference  in  ordinary  life  what  kind  of  meat  is  used. 
For  choice  we  will  say  2  calves'  feet,  2  pigs'  feet 
with  the  shanks  attached,  2  old  fowls  and  some  veal 
bones  or  shin  of  beef.    Chop  and  break  the   pieces. 


Put  them  on  in  a  boiler  having  a  false  bottom  to 
prevent  burning,  or,  otherwise,  put  a  pie  plate  in 
before  the  meat.  Fill  with  cold  water.  Bring  to  a 
boil  and  skim  off  what  rises  to  the  top.  Then  push 
the  boiler  to  the  back  part  of  the  range,  and  let  sim- 
mer gently  about  12  hours.  It  should  by  that  time 
be  reduced  to  about  a  third  of  the  quantity  of  water 
first  put  in  and  will  setin  jelly  when  cold.  But 
during  the  time  of  cooking  the  vegetables  and  salt 
and  pepper  should  have  been  added.  White  pepper 
is  best,  whole  black  pepper,  broken  a  little,  is  next, 
and  if  you  have  not  these  ground  black  pepper  will 
do. 

Strain  off  your  4  quarts  of  jelly  and  fat,  from  the 
meat  and  bones,  and  set  it  away  to  get  quite  cold. 
Then  take  off  the  grease  from  the  top,  and  wipe  off 
the  last  particles  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  warm  water. 
Now  melt  the  jelly  in  a  good  sized  kettle  or  br'ght 
tin  pan.  Squeeze  in  some  lemon  juice— enough  to 
give  it  a  tart  taste.  Of  the  six  eggs  take  2  entire, 
4  whites,  and  all  the  shells,  and  a  cup  cf  cold  water, 
beat  them  up,  add  them  to  the  melted  jelly  and  beat 
up  to  mix.  Then  boil — about  half  an  hour  will  be 
right. 

One  reason  of  trouble  in  making  jelly  is  the  white 
of  egg  does  not  get  cooked  enough,  but  runs  like 
milk  through  the  jelly  bag  and  makes  the  jelly 
cloudy  when  it  should  be  clear.  If  it  boils  over  too 
much  set  the  kettle  and  all  in  the  oven  till  the  white 
of  egg  has  become  a  gray  curd;  then  k  will  strain 
clear. 

Another  trouble  is  when  you  try  to  do  without 
lemons  the  jelly  very  often  is  gummy  and  will  not 
run  through  flannel,  nor  hardly  through  a  seive. 
An  acid  cuts  it  and  makes  it  limped.  If  you  must 
use  vinegar  instead  of  lemon  juice,  you  must.  It 
will  have  the  same  effect — to  make  the  jelly  run 
through. 

The  jelly  bag  is  made  of  red  flannel — about  a  yard 
— a  wire  ring  to  hold  the  top  open — the  bag  running 
down  to  a  point,  funnel  shaped.  Suspend  it  by 
strings  like  the  bail  of  a  bucket. 

The  clarifying  process  above  may  of  course  be 
applied  to  any  soup  stock  or  gelatine  liquor,  and 
applies  with  more  force  to  sweetened  jellies, 
which  are  harder  to  make  than  aspic. 


The  aspic  may  be  cooled  on  dishes,  of  right 
depth  to  stamp  out  fancy  shapes  when  cold.  The 
color  will  likely  be  light  straw  color.  A  few  drops 
of  burnt  sugar  caramel  will  make  it  amber  and  a 
few  more  brandy  or  ale  color.  A  few  drops  of 
red  coloring  will  make  pink  of  the  clear  and  port 
wine  color  of  the  brown.    ' 


The  other  way  will  come  more  familiarly  home 
to  hotel  cooks  where  the  stock  boiler  is  the  al- 
ways ready  resource. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


193 


•736.  Aspic  Jelly.— Hotel  Method. 

Draw  elf  4  quarts  of  clear  soup  stock  from  the 
stock  boili  r.  It  has  already  been  lightly  eeasoned 
with  the  common  vegetables,  and  for  this  use  should 
have  a  head  cf  celery  and  a  handful  of  parsley  ex- 
tra. Ctiop  about  2  pounds  of  lean  beef  fine  like 
sausage.  Mix  a  pint  of  cold  water  with  it,  then 
put  the  beef  in  the  4  quarts  of  stock  and  boil  it  a 
short  lime.  Strain  this  consomme  from  the  beef 
through  a  fine  gravy  strainer,  and  set  it  in  the 
refrigerator  that  the  grease  may  be  all  taken  ofi* 
when  cold. 

Then  add  to  it  the  whiles  and  shells  of  6  eggs, 
juice  of  4  lemons,  1  bay  leaf,  a  tablespoonful  of 
bruised  pepper  corns,  or  some  white  pepper,  <he 
same  of  salt,  a  ladleful  of  cold  water  beaten  in  the 
eggs,  and  4  ounces  of  the  cheap,  white  gelatine, 
that  floats  while  dissolving  and  can't  burn.  Bring 
the  mixture  to  a  boil,  with  frequent  stirring. 
When  done  pour  it  3  or  4  times  through  the  jelly 


Now  we  have  a  pail  of  savory  jelly  in  the  ice 
chest  always  ready,  and  can  go  along  with  the  salad- 

makicg. 


73 T.         Shrimps  in  Aspic 

ASPIC  OF  SHBIMPS  OB  PRAWNS. 

Good  aspic  or  savory  jelly  is  a  really  pleasant  con- 
diment with  fchrimps  and  the  like  as  well  as  very 
preity  ornament,  but  someone  rem^^rks  in  a  common- 
sense  way  that  it  ought  to  i«  fish  jelly  instead  of 
meat  jelly. 

1.  Pick  a  quart  of  shrimps  and  keep  the  largest 
and  shapliest  for  this  purpose,  laying  aside  the 
broken  pieces  for  fish  sauce,  etc.  Shake  up  the 
shrimps  in  oil  and  vinegar  enough  to  make  them 
shine. 

Chop  some  bright  amber-colored  jelly.  Slice  ex- 
tremely fine,  or  chop — only  just  before  it  is  to  be 
used — some  green  lettuce,  cress  and  mustard,  or 
celery  with  half  green  tops,  as  may  be  convenient, 
and  season  with  oil,  vinegar  and  salt. 

Put  a  spoonful  of  the  green  salad  in  each  small 
dish  and  form  a  border  with  it.  In  the  middle 
place  a  spoonful  of  the  chopped  jelly  well  spread 
out,  and  on  that,  well  in  the  center,  not  to  hide  the 
border  of  jelly,  place  a  spoonful  cf  shrimps.  Take 
up  a  little  more  of  the  chopped  jelly  on  a  silver  fork 
and  striking  dredge  it  all  over  the  dish. 

2.  Melt  some  jelly  and  add  to  it  a  flavoring  of 
pepper  sauce.  Half  ^rd  sauce  (poured  ofiF  clear  wih- 
out  dregs)  and  one  drop  of  red  coloring. 

Spread  the  shrimps  close  together  and  only  two 
deep  on  the  large-t  sized  meat  platter,  pour  enough 
of  the  jelly  over  just  to  cement  the  shrimps  together 
and  set  the  dish  in  the  refrigerator  to  get  cold. 

When  to  be  dished  up  cut  the  shrimps  in  jelly  in 
cakes,  either  with  a  sharp  knife    in    obloDgs,    tri- 


angles, squares,  or  diamonds,  leaving  no  residue,  oi 
with  a  round  or  oval  cutter. 

Dish  up  in  combination  with  a  green  salad  bor- 
der. One  oblong  cake  on  a  bed  of  cress.  Two 
small  triangles  set  up  against  a  pile  of  salad  in  the 
middle. 

3.  The  last  is  one  of  the  speedy  if  somewhat 
rough-and-ready  ways  that  are  always  piacticable, 
while  this  takes  time. 

Prepare  a  small  bowl  of  chopped  green  lettuce, 
about  a  pint  may  do,  and  moisten  it  with  some  salad 
dressing. 

Pour  a  spoonful  of  flavored  jelly  in  each  one  of 
about  25  slender  conical  shaped  wine  glasses,  or 
moulds  like  them,  let  it  run  all  around  to  coat  the 
sides,  stick  the  shrimps  in  order  upon  the  jelly,  and 
let  it  set  in  a  cold  place.  When  about  two  rows 
have  been  put  in  place,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  the 
chopped  lettuce  in  the  cavity,  and  the  shrimps 
dipped  in  jelly,  on  the  point  of  a  fork,  can  be 
placed  in  the  upper  rows  easily.  Fill  up  with  the 
prepared  lettuce  and  pour  a  spoonful  of  jelly  on  top 
of  that  and  be  sure  the  moulds  stand  level  while  the 
jelly  is  setting.  The  moulds  or  glasses  have  to  be 
placed  in  ice  water  when  the  weather  is  not  cold. 

To  dish  up,  dip  the  mould  a  moment  in  warm  water, 
wipe  the  outside  and  shake  the  shape  of  jellied 
shrimps  out  onto  a  bed  of  cress  in  its  dish.  Stick  a 
plume  of  fennel  or  a  flower  in  the  top  of  the  cone. 

4.  The  stamping  works  now  turn  out  a  great 
variety  of  fancy  shapes  of  gem  pans,  some  in  form 
of  scallop  shells,  that  are  well  adapted  for  moulding 
these  individual  aspics  in,  and  are  less  troublesome 
than  border  moulds.  There  is  no  good  reason  why 
this  day's  dinner  should  be  just  like  any  other  day's 
dinner  in  these  little  ornamental  accessories. 


738. 


Oyster  Salad. 


6  dozen  fresh  oysters. 

6  heads  of  celery  with  part  of  their  green  tops. 

About  half  as  much  tender  white  cabbage. 

The  mayonaise  salad  dressing. 

1.  Make  the  mayonaise  with  lemon  juice  instead  of 
vinegar — or  use  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  1  tablespoon- 
ful of  tarragon  vinegar  and  a  little  pepper  sauce  or 
chili  vinegar. 

After  washing  the  celery  and  cabbage  throw  then* 
into  boiling  salted  water,  let  them  boil  not  less  than 
5  nor  more  than  10  minutes,  then  drain  and  cover 
with  cold  water,  then  drain  dry  and  chop  them 
fine. 

The  green  celery  leaves  acquire  an  intenser  green 
in  the  boiling  water,  and  chopped  with  the  stalks 
and  roots  give  a  tinge  to  the  whole. 

Drain  the  liquor  from  the  oysters  and  bring  it  to 
a  boil  in  order  to  remove  the  scum  either  by  skim- 
ming or  straining.  After  that  add  to  it  an  equal 
quantityof  good  vinegar,   a    seasoning    of  broken 


194 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


pepper-corns,  pepper  sauce  and  salt,  then  put  in  the 
oysters  and  bring  them  just  to  the  boiling  point  and  no 
more.  Siiake  the  saucepan  continually  that  the 
oysters  may  become  set  while  cooking  in  round  and 
plump  shape.  Then  drain  them  from  the  liquor  and 
set  them  away  on  a  dish  to  become  ice-cold. 

When  to  be  dished  season  the  chopped  celery, 
etc.,  with  oil  and  vinegar,  slightly,  but  well  mixed 
in,  spread  a  spoonful  of  it  in  the  middle  of  each 
small  dish,  on  that  lay  some  oysters  side  by  side, 
and  on  top  another  spoonful  of  the  celery.  Flatten 
the  top  slightly  but  don't  smooth  the  sides.  Pour 
the  mayonaise  over  just  thin  enou      to  run. 


The  foregoing  is  not  enough  for  the  average  orders 
of  fifty  persons. 


2.  Prepare  the  ingredients  as  above — but  the 
allemande  salad  dressing  or  any  other  may  be  used 
as  well. 

Fry  some  outside  leaves  of  lettuce,  twice  as  many 
as  you  expect  to  use  that  you  may  select  those 
which  are  the  most  like  shells  in  shape  and  of  the 
finest  green-bronze  color  after  frying.  Good  sweet 
lard  should  be  used  made  hot  in  the  potato  fryer, 
but  not  smoking  hot.  The  leaves  take  about  a 
minute  or  two  to  fry  green  colored  but  dry.  When 
done  lay  them  hollow  side  down  on  baking  sheets 
and  let  them  drain  perfectly  in  a  hot  place,  then  let 
them  become  cold.  Shape  little  oyster  (or  lobster) 
salads  in  egg  cups,  and  dish  them  up  in  these  crisped 
lettuce  leaves  like  a  fish  in  a  shell.  Spread  dressing 
over  as  usual. 


739. 


Aspic  of  Oysters. 


Prepare  the  oysters  as  for  salad  by  scalding  them 
in  seasoned  vinegar  and  oyster  liquor. 

Prepare  some  green  aspic  jelly  {ravigote  jelly)  by 
boiling  some  green  celery  leaves  done,  draining  dry, 
pounding,  mixing  with  clear  aspic  and  then  strain- 
ing it  again.  Cool  the  green  jelly  in  the  smallest 
flat  dishes — it  is  to  form  foundations  to  lay  the 
oysters  on. 

Boil  some  eggs  hard  and  chop  the  yolks  for  border 
ornament.  Now  place  about  four  oysters  diagonally 
side  by  side  in  the  smallest  flat  dish,  and  pour  over 
enough  clear  white  or  amber  jelly,  highly  eeasoned 
with  pepper  sauce  and  lemon  juice,  to  nearly  cover 
them.  When  all  are  cold  slip  the  shapes  of  green 
jelly  from  their  dishes  by  means  of  a  knife  and 
place  them  bottom  side  up  on  the  dishes  they  are  to 
be  served  in,  then  the  shape  of  oysters  on  that  and 
ornament  with  the  minced  yolks  or  tiny  leaves  of 
heart  lettuce. 


"Alleys  of  scarlet  tomatoes,  purple   mulberries, 
grapes,     lemons,     oranges,     quinces,     pumpkins. 


'melons ;  gourds  of  all  shape?,  sizes,  and  colors,  green 
and  pinky  and  yellow  and  violet ;  pearly  rice  from 
the  fields  about  Mantua;  and  uuground  maize,  like 
beads  of  clouded  amber.  Flowers  are  in  profusion 
— roses,  camellias,  and  autumn  violets;  besidfs 
mountains  of  mulberry  leives  for  silk-worm  breed- 
ers, pine  cones  for  firing,  flat  baskets  piled  high 
with  wrinkled  olives,  and  sacks  of  shining  brown 
chestnuts. 

"Giving  smile  for  smile,  greeting  for  greeting,  La 
Giulietta  meanwhile  makes  her  modest  purchases  ; 
lettuce  and  cress  and  sweet  fennel  for  salad  ;  lentils 
and  a  handful  of  tawny  fungi  for  soup  ;  a  little  pat 
of  fresh  butter  wrapped  in  mulberry  leaves;  and  the 
proffered  morsel  of  stracchino  for  Uncle  S'efano's 
supper." — An  Italian  Market-place. — Lord  Bracken- 
bury. 

"Another  species  of  fennel,  called  finocchio  by  the 
Italians,  is  also  u?ed  for  the  same  purposes,  and  a?  a 
flavoring  for  soups." — Bazar. 

"In  a  corner,  far  away  from  any  group  of  talk- 
ers, two  mules  were  standing,  well  adorned  with 
red  tassels  and  collars.  One  of  them  carried  wooden 
milk-vessels,  the  other  a  pair  of  panniers  filled  with 
herbs  and  salads.  *  *  *  *  Nevertheless 
our  stranger  had  no  compunction  in  awaking  her, 
but  the  means  he  chose  were  so  gentle  that  it  seemed 
to  the  damsel  in  her  dream  as  if  a  little  sprig  of 
thyme  had  touched  her  lips  while  she  was  stooping 
to  gather  the  herbs." — An  Italian  Marketplace. — 
Romola. 

'Would  you  kindly  get  those  Soissons  haricots 
fetched,  which  I  see  at  the  end  of  the  table.  *  * 
*  *  I  beg  also  your  favorable  notice  for  the 
small  marsh  beans,  sometimes  called  English  beans ; 
when  still  green  they  are  a  dish  for  the  gods." — 
Savarin. 

*  It  is  said  that  we  are  indebted  to  Alexander  the 
Great  for  the  introduction  of  this  bean  into  Europe, 
for  while  marching  on  his  victorious  route  in  India 
his  eye  fell  upon  a  field  of  these  plants.  They  ap- 
peared to  him  very  inviting,  and  finding  them  good 
for  food  he  highly  recommended  them  to  his  coun- 
trymen." 

"The  Romans  preserved  them  with  vinegar  and 
garum,  and  they  were  handed  round  at  the  begin- 
ning of  a  feast  to  excite  the  appetites  of  the  guests." 

"About  Bari?  Surely — a  seaport  on  the  Adriatic 
coast.  You  may  see  plenty  of  Bari  trading  vessels 
at  Ancona  and  Venice.  Our  neighbor  Sacch',  who 
understands  the  wholesale  business  as  well  as  any 
man  in  town,  gets  all  his  oil  from  Bari.  Being 
brought  by  sea  to  Venice,  it  comes  cheaper  than  the 
oils  of  Florence  and  Lucca,  which  have  to  be 
brought  across  the  Apennines.  Don't  you  know 
the  proverb,  'Bari  for  oil,  Trani  for  figs,  Otranto  for 
pretty  women?'  " — Lord Brackenbury. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


195 


740. 


Salade  Jardiniere. 


With  peas,  asparagus  points  and  other  green 
vegetables  really  green,  beets  blood  red,  and  first- 
rate  aspic  jelly  for  border,  and  flowers,  nothing  goes 
to  table  I  hat  is  more  showy  than  this. 

Cat  a  number  of  difi'erent  colored  root  vegetables 
in  slices  and  boil  them  till  done  in  salted  water — a 
white  turnip,  a  yellow  rutibaga,  a  red  carrot,  salsi- 
fy, parsnip,  broad  celery  stalks,  almost  anything  for 
variety. 

When  done  stamp  them  all  out  in  little  star  shapes 
or  flower  fchapes,  with  a  tin  vegetable  cutler,  not 
much  larger  than  a^silver  dime. 

Also  stamp  out  a  quaotity  of  the  same  star  shapes 
of  cooked  beets,  the  deepest  red,  and  keep  them 
ready  in  vinegir,  separate. 

Boil  a  corresponding  proportion  of  asparagus 
heads  green,  also  some  g'^een  peas  (unless  you  cm 
get  the  French  peas,  and  half  a  can  may  do),  and 
string  beans  and  chives,  etc.  A  small  quantity  of 
the  French  ognons,  or  small  seed  onions  sold  in  bot- 
tles, is  alsT  a  de*-irable  addition.  Cut  the  string 
beans  in  diamond  shapes. 

Mix  all  these  vegetables,  except  the  beets  and  a 
sprinkling  of  the  peas  or  asparagus  points,  together 
with  enough  oil  and  vinegar  to  moisten,  and  turn 
them  from  one  bowl  to  another  a  few  times. 

Pile  in  the  middle  of  the  dishes,  and  pour  thin 
mayonaise  over,  and  scatter  the  star  shapes  of  beets 
and  the  green  peas  all  over  the  top. 

Around  the  edge  of  the  dishes  place  blocks  of  am 
ber  jelly,  lettuce  leavesi,  tiny  bunches  of  cress,  flow- 
ers, etc.,  all  or  part,  according  to  fancy. 

The  jelly  should  be  cooled  in  dishes,  in  depth 
about  half  an  inch,  cut  in  perfect  cubes,  then  cut 
across,  to  form  three-sided  blocks.  For  all  these 
ornamental  purposes  it  is  generally  necessary  to 
clarify  the  aspic  jeliy  a  second  time— it  makes  it 
firmer  and  of  a  more  golden  richness  of  appearance. 
All  things  in  this  class  are  Yor  style.  Good  work- 
manship tells.  Better  never  attempt  them  at  all 
than  make  them  but  tawdry  imitations. 


T41.    To  Boil  Vegretables  Green. 


Let  asparagus,  peas  and  string  beans  lie  in  cold 
water  an  hour  or  two  before  cooking,  then  put  them 
into  water  that  is  already  boiling,  but  just  before 
putting  them  in,  drop  a  little  bi-carbonate  of  soda 
into  it.  A  pinch  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  does  as 
well.  Too  much  of  either  makes  the  vegetables  soft 
and  yellow. 

The  French  green  ^Q&a—petits  pois — are  better 
than  ours,  chiefly  because  they  are  gathered  while 
young  enough,  so,  likewise,  are  the  English,  but 
American  peas  never  are — except  in  California. 


The  French  petits  pots  are  made  so  green  by  the 
addition  of  a  small  quant  i-y  of  Vichy  salt  to  the 
water  they  are  canned  in,  aa  alkaline  salt  from  the 
f  imous  springs.  Bi-carbona(e  of  soda  wiih  salt  has 
about  the  same  effect. 

Spinach,  summer  cabbag?*,  Brussels  sprouts  and 
the  like  are  kept  green  ^hile  boiling  by  the  same 
treatment  as  asparagus  and  peas.  Green  celery 
leaves — useful  in  salad  making — need  no  alkali  to 
green  then,  the  boiling  water  is  sufficient. 

74S.  

When  using  the  coarser  outside   stalks   of  celery 

for  any  purpose  that  requires  them  to  be  cooked 
scrape  the  tough  sinews  from  the  back — much  as 
you  would  scale  a  fish — and  the  celery  will  be  great- 
ly improved. 

743.  

"Heliveth  well  wholoveih  well 
All  things  both  great  and  pmall." 

— Ancient  Mariner. 

*•  'Are  you  a  favorer  of  the  olive  ?'  said  Lord  G — . 

*No,'  said  I,  *I  love^it^not ;  it  hath  an  under  taste 
of  sourness  and  an  upper  of  oil,  that  do  not  make 
harmony  to  my  palate*'  " — Bulwer. 

In  the  aalade  jardiniere,  and  the  two  next  to  come, 
you  can  put  away  that  bottle  of  queen  olives — in  the 
jardiniere  as  a  border  ornament  instead  of  jelly,  and 
in  the  others  as  part  cf  their  composition,  and  be 
done  with  the  perplexity.  For  it.  is  perplexing, 
seeing  the  queen  olive's  visits  to  the  kitchen  are  so 
few  and  far  between,  to  have  somebody  set  the  bot- 
tle on  the  table  in  a  perfectly  matter-of-course  way 
saying,  "As  we  want  this  to  be  a  very  nice  afi'air 
you  can  have  some  olives  for  your  salad,*'  and  then 
walk  off".  Now  what  are  you  to  do  with  queen 
olives  to  be  fine  for  all  they  are  worth  ?  You  have 
heard  of  a  gentleman  who  is  at  all  the  outside  par- 
ties and  festivals  where  you  have  to  send  your  con- 
tributions of  boned  turkeys  and  roast  hams  and 
things,  who  is  a  terror  because  he  is  a  critic,  and 
who  always  atjthose  places  makes  the  people  a  salad 
with  olives.  And  it  is  the  olive  part  that  gives  the 
impression  of  style,  wherefore  you  likewise  must 
do  something  great,  and  there's  your  bottle  of  olives. 

Now  you  wish  your  people  were  Italians,  to  eat 
their  olives  plain,  like  these  in  Lothair: 

"On  this  morn,  this  violent  morn,  a  few  fishermen 
in  one  of  the  country  boats  happened  to  come  in, 
about  to  dry  a  net  upon  a  sunny  bank.  Lothair  ad- 
mired the  trim  of  the  vessel,  and  got  talking  with 
the  men  ae  they  ate  their  bread  and  olives,  and  a 
small  fish  or  two." 

Or  like  these  ia  Lord  Brackenbury  : 

**So  La  Giulietta  hurries  in  to  spread  the  table; 
and  presently  they  are  all  silting  together  at  their 
evening  meal — a  meal  literally  of  Attic  simplicity, 
consisting  of  bread,  salad,  salted  olives,  a  kind  of 
sweet  cake  made  with  chestnut  flour,  aud  a  measure 
of  country  wine  in  a  wicker  flask.' 


.96 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


Or  like  these  in  Don  Quixote  : 

"They  were  all  good-looking  young  fellows  ;  each 
had  his  wallet,  whicb,  as  it  soon  appeared,  was  well 
stored,  at  least  with  relishing  incentives  to  thirst, 
and  such  as  provoke  it  at  two  leagues  distance. 

They  laid  themselves  along  on  the  ground,  and, 
making  the  grass  their  table-cloth,  there  was 
presently  a  comfortable  display  of  bread,  salt,  nuts, 
and  cheese,  with  some  bacon  bones,  which,  though 
they  would  not  bear  picking,  were  to  be  sucked 
with  advantage.  Caviare  too  was  produced — a  kind 
of  black  eatable,  made  of  the  roes  of  fish  :  a  notable 
awakener  of  thirst.  Even  olives  were  not  wanting, 
and  though  somewhat  dry,  they  were  savory  and  in 
good  keeping.  But  the  glory  of  the  feast  was  six 
bottles  of  wine." 

An  English  authority,  too,  advising  on  the  make- 
up of  a  supper,  says  it  will  be  as  well  to  provide  a 
few  olives  for  the  gentlemen ;  but  means  them  plain, 
in  pickle  dishes. 

In  a  little  menu  of  an  ancient  dinner  of  Washing- 
ton's, recently  discovered  among  the  family  relics, 
that  was  printed  in  the  Reporter ^  olives  plain  ap- 
pears twice.  However,  our  gentleman  makes  salads 
with  olives  in. 


Salade  de  Lefirumes, 


a  ritalienne. 


A  match  to  the  jardiniere  salad,  and,  like  it,  made 
of  several  varieties  of  vegetables  cut  in  forms.  No 
msiyonaise  needed  unless  for  ornamental  piping, 
like  icing  patterns  on  a  cake.  The  distinctive 
feature  is  the  border- mould  of  vegetable  patterns 
and  mosaics  set  in  jelly ;  in  the  hollow  center  the 
plainer  colored  vegetables  being  piled,  seasoned  only 
with  oil,  salt,  pepper,  and  tarragon  vinegar.  As 
the  large  moulds  are  almost  useless  for  individual 
ser.vice,  and  even  at  parties  are  seldom  if  ever  cut, 
the  writer  uses  individual  border  moulds,  which 
any  tinner  can  make.  They  are  of  size  and  shape 
to  fit  the  small  dishes,  from  2^  to  3  inches  long,  and 
farm  a  trench  or  border  an  inch  deep,  the  jelly,  etc., 
moulded  therein  forming  a  rim  for  the  dish,  the 
centre  being  vacant. 

1.  Take  a  scollop  scoop — not  too  small  and  tedi- 
ous— one  that  scoops  a  sort  of  cblong  shell  shape  or 
berry  out  of  vegetables — and  scoop  about  a  cupful 
of  potatoes  raw,  and  then  cook  them  in  salted  water. 
Also  a  cupful  of  cooked  beets,  same  shape,  and  per- 
haps other  vegetables,  and  a  like  quanti<y  of  shapes 
of  white  of  eggs.  Prepare  likewise  some  cooked 
string  beans  by  cutting  them  of  same  length,  and 
stone  a  bottle  of  olives. 

Set  the  small  border  moulds  in  a  pan  that  i?  set  in 
another  pan  of  ice,  water,  and  salt.  Drop  3  or  4 
olives    in    each    and  fill  in  between  with  the  mixed 


colored  sh'ipes  of  vegetables  and  white  of  eggs,  and 
fill  up  with  amber  aspic  jelly 

While  the  borders  are  setiing  prepare  the  inside 
filling.  Choose  cauliflower,  potatoes',  asparagus, 
beets,  and  green  peas  ;  cook  them,  divide  the  c.uli- 
flower  into  small  flowerets,  cut  the  polatoes  and 
beets  in  very  small  dice,  use  only  the  green  heads 
of  the  asparagus,  season  them  all  with  tarragon 
vinegar,  oil,  salt  and  pepper.  Turn  the  jelly  bor- 
ders out  of  their  moulds  and  pile  the  other  mixture 
in  the  middle. 

2.  Another  way  without  border  moulds  is  to 
spread  the  mixed  shapes  of  vegetables  and  egg  white 
over  a  large  platter,  pour  on  jelly  to  cover  them, 
and,  whea  set,  wi  h  a  sharp  knife  cut  across  in 
diamonds,  and  then  divide  these  across  forming 
triangles,  carefully  without  dragging  and  displacing 
the  vegetables.  Take  up  these  triaoglea  with  sugar 
tongs  and  dipping  one  edg8  in  melted  jelly  set  them 
up  around  the  dish,  and  fill  the  ce ntre  as  in  the 
other.  The  olives  may  be  used  mixed  in  the  centre 
filling,  or  as  ornaments,  alternating  with  the  jelly 
shapes. 


Huge  salads  of  this  kind  are  made  for  banquets 
and  ball  suppers,  sometimes  in  pyramidal  form,  the 
sides  of  the  moulds  elaborately  dtcorated  with  pat- 
terns of  white  of  egg3  (that  has  been  steamed  in  a 
mass  shallow  in  a  pan,  for  large  leaves,  etc  ,  to  be 
stamped  out),  and  asparagus  set  up  in  jelly  in  full 
length,  with  white  and  red  rosea  of  turnips  and 
beets.  These  are  ornamental  pieces  and  for  nothing 
else. 


The  honeycombed  vegetables  left  after  cutting  or 
scooping  can  be  steamed  and  mashed,  the  beets  can 
often  be  chopped  and  used  in  another  salad. 


There  are  knives  of  peculiar  shape  sold  for 
stoning  olives.  It  makes  a  difierence  if  the  olives 
be  the  large  kind  and  not  such  as  now  sometimes 
come  in  kegs. 


'^46. 


Salade  a  la  Russe. 


Various  mixtures  of  fish  and  vegeiaoies,  ^ith 
olives,  pickles,  capers  and  the  like  are  called  Kus- 
sian  salad,  the  disiinguishing  feature,  however,  is 
the  Russian  salad  dressing  of  highly  gea-oned  jelly 
whipped  toafroih,  The  ge'atine  manufacturers  have 
caused  to  be  pretty  well  known  certain  sweet  trifles 
made  by  whipping  lemon  jtl  y  while  cooling  on  ice 
to  a  froth  resembling  whiie  of  egg^,  and  then  called 
lemon  snow,  snow  puddiog,  aud  the  like.  These 
are  known  as  Russian  jel  y  or  jelly  a  la  Russe  in 
French  cookery.  The  Russian  salad  jelly  is  the 
same  thing  with  ealad  seasonings  instead  of  sweets. 
It  may  be  either  white,  red,  green  or  yellow  ;    and 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


197 


when  ornamental  border  moulds  are  made  with  it 
the  variatiors  a'e  to  get  red  fleshed  fishes  such  as 
Ijbsterj,  shrimps  and  silmon  to  show  in  the  white 
jelly,  and  while  fish  and  sometimes  chicken,  ecalded 
oyttcrs  and  the  like,  to  show  in  colored  jelly. 
Olives,  cipers,  green  {gherkins  and  pickled  peppers 
are  always  in  p'ace  in  Russian  salad*?,  and  caviare 
is  good  for  their  ornamentation.  The  inside  of  the 
border  shapes  may  be  filled  with  any  mixture  of 
vegetables,  like  the  Italian  vegetable  salad,  and 
mayonaise  poured  over. 

Where  so  much  depends  upon  individual  taste  it 
seems  useless  to  give  minute  directions. 

To  make  the  jelly  melt  a  pint  of  good  firm  aspic 
jelly,  then  whip  it  wi  h  an  egg  beater,  in  a  pan  of 
ice  water,  addicg  at  the  same  time  a  quarter  pint  of 
olive  oil  and  a  little  less  of  mixed  vinegars — chili 
and  tarragon — or  lemon  juice  and  some  plain 
vinegar.  To  make  the  jelly  very  white  whip  one  or 
two  whites  of  eggs  to  a  froth  and  stir  them  in  just  as 
it  begins  to  be  too  firm  to  beat. 

The  red  fishes  should  be  cut  in  pieces  of  even  siz?, 
mixed  in  the  jelly,  togHher  with  the  olives,  capers 
and  shapes  of  pickles,  and  the  moulds  immediately 
filled.  A  good  efi"ect  m  3y  be  produced  by  dropping 
into  the  white  jelly  little  cubes  of  clear  jelly  of 
diflferent  colors. 

To  color  this  whipped  jelly  red  use  beet  vinegar, 
or  lobster  spawa  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a 
fine  f  eive.  For  yellow  mix  mayonaise  dre-sing  in 
it  iastead  of  oil  and  vinegar.  For  green  use  the 
juice  pressed  out  of  pounded  raw  spinach  leaves,  or 
of  cooked  celery  leaves. 

Stone  the  olives  and  fill  I  hem  with  chopped  mixed 
pickles  before  putting  them  in  the  salad. 


If  the  lobster  holds  the  most  prominent  place 
among  salads  we  guess  it  must  be  because  the  Old- 
World  cooks,  purveyors,  major-domos  and  kings' 
tasters  have  thrust  it  fjrward  for  its  bright  color  to 
make  their  set  tables  look  like  piciures.  Looking 
back  through  an  American  cooking  experience  of 
about  thiriy  yeirs  the  writer  has  never  had  reason 
to  regard  it  as  particularly  delicious  eating.  Con- 
spicuous ia  the  foreign  menu  cert;;iii'y,  but  who 
can  Gill  to  mind  where  any  writer  has  eulogized 
lobster  salad  or  held  up  the  lobster  for  anything  but 
a  comparison  f.r  somebody's  red  face?  Somewhere 
Thackeray  who  mentions  everything  eatable,  and 
each  at  its  proper  style  of  table,  and^  who  knew  what 
was  good,  mentions  lobster  and  I  .bster  salad,  but  in 
b  th  places  they  are  in  the  hands  of  low-down  per- 
sons ;  one  of  them  in  a  duety  place  at  a  fair. 

'746>  Lobster  Salad. 

MAYONAISE  DE  HOMARD,  ETC. 

1.  The  Lirgest  quintity  of  lobster  can  be  dis- 
posed of  at   hotel  tables  by  serving  it  (after  taking 


the  meat  out  cf  the  shell)  plain,  whh  only  a  little 
good  vinegar  poured  over  in  the  dish,  and  2  or  3 
cripp  leaves  of  heart  lettuce.  It  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  of  the  table  for  some  people  to  make  their 
own  salads. 


2.  Cut  the  lobster  as  nearly  in  dice  shape  as  may 
be,  leaving  the  scraps  and  crumbs  to  be  used  for 
some  other  purpose — as  fish  sauce,  croquettes,  lob- 
ster cutlets,  etc. — and  mix  it  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  boiled  potatoes  cut  to  correspond,  in  the  hollan-» 
daise  salad  dressing.     Use  shred  lettuce  to  garnish. 


3.  Chop  6  or  8  heads  of  white  celery  and  stir  in- 
to it  a  Utile  oil,  vinegar,  popper  and  salt. 

Select  enough  fine  large  pieces  of  the  lobster  meat 
for  about  25  individual  dishes ;  steep  them  in  oil, 
vinegar,  pepper  and  salt  in  a  bowl,  and  dish  one  or 
two  pieces  laid  diagonally  on  a  spread  out  spoonful 
of  the  eelery. 


4.  Prepare  the  mayonaise  salad  dressing  with 
lemon  juice  insiead  of  vinegar,  or  part  of  the  vine- 
gar. 

Chop  six  heads  of  celery  with  enough  of  the  tend- 
erest  green  tops  mixed  in  to  make  it  all  light  green. 
Cut  the  lobster  in  pieces  all  of  one  size  and  keep  out 
the  reddest  meat  in  a  dish  by  itself. 

Dish  a  layer  of  the  chopped  celery  in  flat  individ- 
ual dishes ;  then  lobster  on  that  with  the  red  pieces 
strewn  at  the  edge  where  they  will  show  among  the 
green  ;  then  another  spoonful  of  celery  on  top  of  the 
lobster,  and  press  down  the  top  slightly.  Pour  the 
mayonaise  over  just  thin  enough  to  run  and  mask 
without  hiding  the  colors'.  These  salads  look  like 
tufts  of  moss. 


5.  Steep  the  lobster  in  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and 
salt.  Dish  on  flat  dishes,  spread  thick  mayonaise  or 
other  dressing  on  top,  and  decorate  with  quarters 
of  boiled  eggs,  olives,  pickles,  capers,  chopped  let- 
tuce, etc.,  as  for  shrimp  salads. 


T47. 

Lobsters,  crabs,  crayfish  and  shrimps  are  all 
cooked  by  dropping  them  alive  into  boiling  water, 
sailed.  It  is  the  old  world  fashion  of  the  fishermen 
who  bring  in  the  daily  market  supply  of  shrimps, 
to  boil  them  in  sea  water,  on  their  way  in.  They 
have  boilers  set  in  brick  work  in  their  boats  for  the 
purpose.  And  so,  it  is  said,  do  the  lobster  fishers  of 
Gaspe  Bay,  where  lobsters  do  most  abound. 
Shrimps  take  but  a  few  minutes  to  cook,  lobsters 
take  half  an  hour  and  more. 


198 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


The  lobster  coral  or  spawn,  if  these  furrdshcd 
happen  to  conta.n  any,  can  be  used,  pounded  and 
rubbed  through  a  eeive,  to  mix  with  mayonaise  to 
give  it  a  red  color  and  serve  for  variety  in  orijamen- 
tation.  Another  great  use  of  the  coral  is  to  make 
iobster  butter  by  pounding  it  with  an  equal  amount 
of  fresh  butter  and  rubbing  through  aseive.  Add 
Bome  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley.  A  tolerable 
iubstitute  is  the  red  claw  meat  of  the  lobster.  This 
butter  is  used  for  spreading  on  bread  or  toast  to 
build  up  salads  on,  and  for  sticking  large  pieces  of 
lobster  together.  If  seldom  eaten  it  may  be  that 
the  nature  and  composition  of  red  butter  is  not  gen- 
erally understood.  However,  it  goes  well  as  a  cold 
sauce  with  hot  fish,  and  in  that  way  is  never  wasted. 

Then  there  is  green  sauce.  Just  lately  I  was 
trapped  into  reading  a  bill  of  fare.  It  was  a  Christ- 
mas bill,  printed  large,  and  set  in  a  restauraLt 
window  among  the  ornamented  dishes  of  an  evidi;n^- 
ly  good  cook,  and  the  novelty  of  it  was  salmon  wi  h 
green  sauce.  Why  green  sauce  instead  cf  ravi^ote, 
remoulade,  Montpellier,  or  something  else  that  con- 
veys no  picture  to  the  mind  ?  But  green  sauce 
stretches  away  back  to  the  time  of  the  old  Ramans, 
and  perhaps  beyond  them  to  the  Babylonians  and 
Persians. 

Here,  comparatively  recent,  yet  writlen  three 
hundred  and  seventy  years  ago,  is  a  French  book 
talking  about  green  sauce : 

"  *It  is,'  said  Panurge,  *my  lords  the  king  of  the 
clouted  hose.  I  intend  to  make  him  an  honest  man, 
I  will  put  him  to  a  trade,  and  make  him  a  crier  of 
green-sauce.  Go  to,  begin  and  cry ;  Do  you  lack 
any  green-sauce  ?  And  the  poor  devil  began  to 
cry.'  " 

Truly,  green  s^ace  might  mean  *  garden- sass"  or 
other  things,  but  here  are  particulars  : 

"Pantagruel  gave  them  a  little  lodge  near  the 
lower  street,  and  a  mortar  of  stone  wherein  to  bray 
and  pound  their  sauce." 

It  must  be  inferred  that  green-sauce  has  at  some 
times  been  cried  as  a  marketable  article  like  pop- 
corn. Green  sauce,  the  simple  base,  in  modern 
French  cookery  is  called  ravigote,  and  consists  of 
some  half  dozen  kinds  of  herbs — tarragon,  chives 
parsley,  burnet  and  others,  pounded  io  a  green 
pulp  and  then  pressed  through  a  seive.  Of  this 
Ude,  and  then  Ctreme  made  a  dozen  diflp  rent  com- 
binations in  hot  sauces,  like  mint  sauce  with  roist 
lamb,  and  cold  green  sauces  and  butters.  Some  of 
these  are  used  solely  for  salads,  Montpelier  butter 
particularly,  spread  on  toast  as  an  ornamental 
border  or  foundation  for  lobster  and  fish.  The  ex- 
pressed juice  of  pounded  spinach  leaves  is  relied 
upon  for  coloring  a  deeper  green,  and  boiled  celery 
leaves  ^ill  answer  as  well.  These  sauces  and  con- 
diments are  not  likely  to  become  Americanized  hz- 
cause  of  the  danger  of  ignorant  cooks  using  artificial 
green  colorings,  which  are  nearly  all  poisonous. 


T48. 


Lobster  in  the  Shell. 


Divide  the  lobster  in  convenient-sized  pieces,  crack 
the  claws  with  a  hammer,  and  serve  p'ain  ;  the  best 
pieces  only,  the  fragments  can  be  put  to  other  uses. 
Send  in  a  quarter  of  lemon  on  each  dish. 


T40. 


Buisson  of  Lobsters  or  Prawns. 


The  buisson  or  bush  of  lobsters,  so  often  appear- 
ing in  menus  of  banquets,  is  the  same  as  would  be  a 
pyramid  cf  anything  else.  It  is  an  ornamental 
style  of  serving  lobster  in  the  shell  for  a  large  num- 
ber, and  sometimes  the  smallest  lobsters  are  chosen 
for  the  purpose.  The  ways  are  various.  The  lob- 
sters are  fastened  overlapping  each  other,  tails  up- 
wards, in  pyramid9l  form  on  a  tall  and  slender 
evergreen  bush — a  Christmas  tree  in  efifect — with 
their  claws,  horns  and  eyes  looking  out  menacingly 
from  among  the  green.  Another  way  is  to  make  a 
pyramid  of  pressed  corned  beef  incased  in  jelly  and 
stick  the  lobsters  in  like  form  on  that  with  silver 
headed  skewers,  filling  in  with  greens  and  flowers. 
Prawns  on  the  same  plan  and  smaller  scale  Little 
pyramids  of  shrimps  and  prawns  are  made  by  cut- 
ting a  long  loaf  of  bread  in  pineapple  shape  and 
sticking  the  unpicked  shrimps  all  over  it  by  their 
horns.  Picked  shrimps  are  similarly  made  to  cover 
tall  shapes  moulded  in  cold  butter.  There  is  pileuty 
of  room  to  depart  from  these  suggestions  and  fur- 
nish new  designs. 

"What  a  pleasure  it  is  to  have  a  good  appetite, 
when  one  is  certain  of  soon  having  an  excellent  din- 
ner!" *  *  *  "Of  all  the  qualities 
of  a  cook,  the  most  indispensible  is  punctuality." — 
Savarin. 

*  That  all-3oftening,  overpowering  knell, 
The  tocsin  of  the  soul — the  dinner  bell." 

— Byron. 

Some  hotels  now  make  a  public  exhibit  of  their 
Christmas  meats  and  delicacies.  I  think  sometime 
there  will  be  a  new  fashion  of  particg  oflf  a  portion 
of  the  dining  room  with  a  glass  partition,  in  which 
room,  as  through  a  shop  window,  the  compul  orily 
idle  guests  instead  of  watching  the  clock  hand  drag 
its  slow  loL'gth  along  will  be  allowed  to  see  going  on 
the  cleacly  and  fireless  process  of  salad  making  and 
decoration  ;  the  construction  of  the  latest  novelties 
iu  confeciioneries  and  bcquets  of  fruits;  the  orna- 
mentation of  boned  turkeys  and  the  like  after  new 
designs  furnished  by  the  Lakeside  Society  of  Decora- 
tive Art — Culinary  Branch.  Then  the  dining  ro:  m 
will  not  be  so  wrapped  in  a  dim  religious  light,  and 
so  formidably  closed  and  bolted  but  that  the  sl'p- 
pered  stewards  and  waiters  may  be  seen  busy  with 
their  preparations  for  the  good  dinner  to  come 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


199 


T50.  Fish  Salad. 

FILLETS  OF  FISH  EN  MAYONAISE. 

1.  The  kinds  of  fish  tl  at  will  fall  apart  in  flakes, 
Buch  as  silmoo,  turb  )t,  halibut,  redfish,  and  fresh 
cod  may  be  msde  ia  salads  ia  the  same  ways  as 
lobsters,  shrimps  and  oysters,  already  directed. 
But  table  sauce?,  ketchups,  sny,  and  essence  of  an- 
chovies, can  be  added  to  the  dressings  according  to 
taste. 

Of  India  soy  Savarin  says  :  "It  seems  likely  the 
Roman  garum  was  a  foreign  sauce  ;  perhaps  even 
the  'soy*  which  we  get  from  India,  and  which  is 
known  to  be  got  by  the  fermentation  of  a  mixture  of 
fish  and  mushrooms." 

T51.  

2.  Fillets  of  fish  are  the  whole  sides  freed  from 
bones  and  skin.  For  individual  dishes  cut  these 
into  smaller  fillets,  about  the  size  of  fingers.  Lay 
them  to  steep  a  while  in  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  dish  on  a  bed  of  chopped  celery.  Then 
over  each  fillet  pour  a  spoonful  of  mayonaise. 

3.  For  a  mayonaise  of  fillets  of  soles  or  brook 
trout :  Skin  the  fish  before  cooking,  and  likewise 
split  down  the  back  and  take  the  bones  out.  Roll 
the  boned  fish  up  in  fioger  shape  and  lay  them  close 
together  in  a  pan.  Pour  in  some  broth  with  a  dash 
of  vinegar,  salt,  white  pepper,  a  piece  of  onion  and 
some  parsley.  Cover  wifh  a  bright  flat  lid,  put  but- 
tered paper  over  that  and  cook  in  the  oven  20  or  80 
minutes.  There  should  be  little  or  no  liquor  left  in 
the  pan.  Put  a  small  weight  on  the  lid  to  press  the 
fillets,  and  set  them  away  to  get  cold. 

When  to  be  made  in  mayonaise  trim  the  ends  ofi^. 
Moisten  the  fillets  with  oil  and  vinegar  in  a  bowl, 
and  bui'd  them  up,  if  for  a  large  dish,  around  a 
conical  pile  of  chopped  celery  or  lettuce  and  pour 
the  dressing  over  all.     Garnish  with  lemons. 


TSS. 


Boiling  Fish. 


The  get  along-without  policy  of  neglecting  to  pro- 
vide the  kitchen  with  necessary  utensils  operates 
serious  y  against  good  cookery  in  average  hotels. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  in  the  fitting  up  of 
every  new  hotel  some  money  is  wasted  in  buying 
useless  articles  to  suit»the  cranks  and  notions  of  the 
chef  that  is  going  to  take  charge — things  like  costly 
copper  mouMs,  bain  maries,  patent  machines,  etc., 
which  none  of  his  successors  in  the  same  place  will 
ever  use,  and  proprietors  having  had  experience  of 
such  follies  are  apt  to  take  a  grim  revenge  by  re- 
fusing to  buy  any  uncommon  article  at  all.  Now 
there  must  be,  and  it  pays  to  have  in  the  kitchens 
even  of  small  and  unpretentious  houses,  a  fish  boi'er 
wiih  its  drainer  or  false  bottom  and  hooked  upright 
at  each  end  to  lift  it  and  the  fish  out  by ;  a  slock 
boiler  with  its  false  bottom  and  faucet;  a  potato 
fryer    with    its    suspended  drainer ;  a  time-saving 


large  coff'eo  mill,  and  other  things  scarcely  leis  im- 
portant but  none  of  them  commonly  to  be  found. 
It  pays  because  some  of  the  finest  fishes  are  finest 
flavored  when  boiled,  and  if  they  can  not  be  for 
want  of  the  proper  appliances  they  have  to  suffer 
deterioration  by  more  expensive  frying  and  baking, 
A  fish  may  be  boiled  in  a  stove  wash-boiler  and 
fished  out  with  two  skimmers,  but  no  company  will 
insure  it  against  breakage.  What  must  be  must, 
and  in  such  a  case  you  had  better  roll  up  the  fish  in 
a  clem  pudding-cloth,  tying  the  ends  and  pinning 
the  middle,  and  carefully  roll  it  out  on  to  its  dish 
when  done. 

Any  tinner  can  make  b.  poissoniere  or  fish  boiler. 
It  should  be  long  enough  for  a  good  sized  Mackinaw 
trout  whole,  and  wide  enough  for  two  or  three  on 
the  drainer.     It  has  sides  straight  up  and  a  lid. 

To  boil  a  large  trout,  whitefish,  redfish,  sheephead 
or  salmon  for  ealad :  Scale  and  clean  the  fish,  clip 
off  the  fins  but  leave  the  head  and  tail  on,  and  lay  it 
in  a  pan  of  cold  water.  Draw  some  clear  soup- 
stock  into  the  fish  kettle  (the  stock  is  already  slight- 
ly seasoned  with  vegetables),  to  one-third  fill  it. 
Throw  in  a  basting-spoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful 
of  pepper-corns,  half  a  bay  leaf,  a  small  onion  with 
six  cloves  stuck  in  it  and  a  small  piece  of  horse- 
radish. A'so  a  cupful  of  wine  if  afforded,  sherry  or 
claret — keep  the  cheap  sweet  angelicas  and  the  like 
for  ices  and  jellies — if  no  wine  half  a  cup  of  vinegar 
instead.  Let  this  liquor  come  to  a  boil,  then  wipe 
the  fish  clean  and  dry,  lay  it  on  the  drainer  and  let 
come  to  a  boil  quickly.  Then  put  on  the  lid  and 
move  the  ket'le  to  the  side  of  the  range  to  simmer 
slowly.  Rapid  boiling  breaks  the  fish.  Too  much 
cooking  softens  it. 

Half  an  hour  is  the  average  time  it  takes  to  boil  a 
fish  just  done,  but  varies  according  to  the  eize. 
Redfish  and  salmon,  being  solid  fleshed,  bear  longer 
boiling  than  lake  trout.  Cool  the  fish  in  the  liquor 
it  was  boiled  in. 


753. 

Redfish,  Whitefish  or  Trout  in  Aspic 
Jelly. 

An  ornamental  dish.  Border  moulds  are  needed, 
common  jelly  moulds  will  do. 

Take  the  boiled  fish  ice-cold  from  the  liquor  it 
was  boiled  in,  wipe  off  with  a  napkin  dipped  in  hot 
water,  peel  off  the  skin;  then  wi;h  broad  knives 
split  the  fiah  down  tbeback,  remove  the  bone  and 
lay  the  two  fillets  on  a  cutting  board.  It  makes  the 
hands  mest  dish  to  have  a  red  or  pink  or  yellow- 
flesbed  fish  to  alternate  with  the  whi'e. 

Get  ready  a  pan  of  water,  ice  and  sdt  (freezing 
mixture)  to  dip  the  moulds  in  to  set  the  jelly  quick- 
ly.    Cut  the  fishes  in  finger-like  strips. 

Flavor  some  melted  jelly  with  chi'i  vinegar  and 
table  sauce  poured  off  clear,  then  co^t  the  moulds 
with  it  by  turning  a  little  around  in  them  till  set. 


200 


THE  AMEBICAN  COOK. 


Place  the  pieces  of  fish  in  upright  order  around 
the  mould  with  something  to  make  ornamental 
stripes  betwixt  each  piece — it  may  be  the  chopped 
red  meat  of  lobster,  a  fine  line  of  chopped  yolk  ol 
egg,  picked  shrimps,  or  chopped  parsley  or  tender 
green  celery  leaves. 

One  side  of  the  mould  has  to  be  finished  at  a  time, 
a  little  jelly  poured  over  and  allowed  to  set  in  the 
ice  water,  to  be  then  turned  over  and  the  other  side 
lined.  With  a  number  of  moulds  to  work  on  there  is 
no  time  lost. 

For  the  inside  filling  mix  aspic  jelly  and  thick 
mayonaise  in  about  equal  quantities,  and  beat  it 
light  on  ice;  just  before  it  sets  stir  in  chopped 
celery  or  white  lettuce,  or  both,  and  when  the  fish- 
lined  moulds  are  filled — or  the  hollow  border  if 
border  moulds  be  used — let  them  set  in  a  cold  place 
till  to  be  served.  The  dishes  should  be  garnished 
with  a  border  of  picked  leaves  of  water  cress,  and 
something  to  show  it  is  fish,  as  shrimps  or  pieces  of 
lobster,  or  better  still,  some  of  the  smallest  fish  ob- 
tainable, incased  in  clear  jelly  whole,  like  oysters  in 
aspic,  and  laid  in  order  around. 


A  good  deal  of  deteriorated  and  ill-savored  food  is 
sent  to  hotel  tables  through  the  semi-accidental  fer- 
mentation of  soup  stocks,  liquors  in  which  fish  are 
left  to  cool,  and  the  like,  and  never  so  much  as 
when  the  preparation  of  a  banquet  requires  some 
things  to  be  made  a  good  while  before.  This  is  not 
through  want  of  skill  in  making,  but  want  of  care  in 
keeping.  It  is  next  to  impossible  for  a  large  kettle 
of  fish  boiled  over  night,  or  a  large  body  of  soup 
stoek  to  remain  unchanged  till  next  day,  a  sort  of 
"salt-rising"  fermentation  sets  in.  This  is  not  to 
run  down  hotel  cookery  but  point  the  remedy. 
Always  cool  off  soup  stock  in  several  shallow  pans 
and  stir  once  in  a  while,  and  never  set  fish  away  in 
the  kettle  more  than  one  fish  deep ;  and  the  kettle 
should  be  tipped  once  or  twice  while  cooling  to  ex- 
pel the  heat  from  the  center.  After  that  there  is  no 
risk  of  a  bad  taste. 


And,  before  we  get  too  far  from  green  sauce: 
There  is  a  book  in  the  British  museum  all  about 
trout,  that  was  written  by  a  cook  and  published 
within  a  few  years  of  Izaak  Walton's  Complete 
Angler.    In  a  rhyming  preface  the  author  says  : 

'  'Forty  years  in  ambassadors'  kitchens  I 
Learned  the  art  of  cookery. " 
And  he  has  ''trout  pie  to  eat  hot/'  and  "trout  pie  to 
eat  cold,"  and  "cold  trout  in  armour  of  green,"  in 
which  we  find  the  same  old  pounded  herbs,  or 
ravigote,  mixed  with  butter  and  seasonings,  and 
spread  smoothly  all  over  the  cold  boiled  fish,  which 
is  then  ornamented  with  thin  sliced  pickles  to  imi- 
tate scales  and  gills.  This  is  done  with  truffle  slices 
in  modern  French  cookery,  and  the  dish  gees  by 
another  name.  754, 

Another  dish  of  fish  in  armor  of  green,  necessary 


for  those  to  be  posted  in  who  would  get  up  novel,  if 
very  old,  dishes  for  banquets  is: 

Mix  thick  mayonaise  with  a  third  as  much  aspic 
jelly  and  color  it  green  with  the  juice  from  pounded 
spinach  leave?.  When  so  nearly  set  as  not  to  run 
spread  it  evenly  over  a  cold  boiled  fish  raised  on  a 
bread  or  chopped  celery  foundation,  and  decorate 
with  truffles,  whole  yolks  of  eggs,  aspic  jelly  or 
sliced  or  quartered  lemons. 


For  if  the  salad  makers  and  their  work  had  not 
some  strange  charm  of  mystery  for  the  public  why 
should  the  novelists  make  so  much  use  of  the  man 
who  can  make  a  mayonaise  ? 

That  man  is  nearly  ubiquitous  in  English  fiction — 
if  we  had  time  to  follow  him — not  that  mayonaise  is 
always  as. plainly  mentioned  as  in  the  instance  in 
our  opening  column,  but  it  is  implied  when  not 
named  as  one  of  the  branches  of  occult  knowledge 
that  is  to  give  that  personage,  who  is  oftenest  a 
valet,  a  hold  upon  your  imagination. 

The  man  who  can  make  a  mayonaise,  whom  every 
reader  knows,  is  done  up  in  the  smallest  parcel  per- 
haps in  Felix  Bolt  : 

<*0h!  one  of  those  wonderful  Southern  fellows 
that  make  one's  life  easy.  He's  of  no  country  in 
particular.  I  don't  know  whether  he's  most  of  a 
Jew,  a  Greek,  an  Italian,  or  a  Spaniard.  He  speaks 
five  or  six  languages,  one  as  well  as  another.  He's 
cook,  valet,  major-domo,  and  secretary  all  in  one; 
and  what's  more,  he's  an  affectionate  fellow — I  can 
trust  to  his  attachment.  That's  a  sort  of  human 
specimen  that  doesn't  grow  here  in  England,  I 
fancy.  *  *  *  *  The  old  servants 
will  have  to  put  up  with  my  man  Dominic,  who  will 
show  them  how  to  cook  and  do  everything  else,  in  a 
way  that  will  rather  astonish  them." 

Here  he  crops  out  in  Thackeray's  Virginians  : 

"Gumbo  had  a  hundred  accomplishments.  *  * 
*  *  He  was  great  at  cooking  mauy  of  his 
Virginian  dishes,  and  learned  many  new  culinary 
secrets  from  my  Lord's  French  man." 

Now  we  all  know  those  secrets  were  how  to  make 
a  mayonaise  or  two,  but  the  authors  do  not  always 
know  as  much  as  their  characters — how  valuable 
must  have  been  the  salad-making  knowlege  pos- 
sessed by  Count  Fosco,  in  the  Woman  in  White — he 
an  Italian,  a  Count,  and  with  domestic  proclivi- 
ties— but  which  the  author  forgot  to  give  to  the 
world ! 

These  men  of  extraordinary  knowledge  have  to  do 
other  things  than  make  strange  dishes  for  the 
French  reader.  The  same  sort  of  valet  or  major- 
domo,  in  Dumas'  Queen's  Necklace,  alone  knows 
where  there  is  but  just  one  bottle  of  a  priceless 
wine  left  in  the  cellar  of  a  distant  chateau,  and 
manages  to  steal  it  in  time  for  a  royal  guest  in  so 
many  hours  and  minutes  by  the  clock.  With  all 
his  acquaintance  with  various  dishes  the  author  of 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


201 


the  Virginians  missed  it  badly  when  in  going  over  all 
he  could  think  of  that  the  Colonists  had  to  eat  he 
quite  forgot  chicken  salad.     Let  us  see  : 

•'You  know  what  I  mean — shad  and  salmon  and 
rockfish  and  roedeer  and  hogs  and  buflfalos  and 
bisons.  *  *  Countless  quantities  of  shad 
and  salmon,  wild  geese,  wild  swans,  pigeons  and 
plovers,  and  myraids  of  canvas-backed  ducks.  ^ 
*  The  gumbo  was  perfection,  the  shad  were 
rich  and  fresh — stewed  terrapins — sweets  and  flans 
— Mr.  Justice,  you  love  woodcock  pie?  *  * 
And  now  the  sweets  and  pudding  are  come,  of 
which  I  can  give  you  a  list  if  you  like ;  but  what 
young  lady  cares  for  the  puddings  of  to-day,  much 
more  for  those  which  were  eaten  a  hundred  years 
ago?" 

It  is  of  no  use  looking.  There  are  some  grand 
Virginian  feasts  but  Hamlet  is  left  out.  There  is 
cold  roast  turkey,  but  no  Virginian  chicken  or  turkey 
salad. 


It  is  pretty  certain  if  Madam  Esmond,  who  had 
"such  a  hand  for  light  pastry,"  made  chicken  salad 
in  Virginia  a  hundred  years  ago,  the  chicken  was 
first  cut  in  bits  about  an  inch  long,  and  then  pulled 
apart  in  shreds,  for  that  is  the  way  American  house- 
wives of  to-day  say  it  should  be  done ;  but  then 
that  lady  had  plenty  of  help.  There  is  no 
slower  operation  than  pulling  chicken  meat  into 
fine  shreds,  and  hotel  cooks  can't. 

T55.  

Fowls  to  be  cooked  should  always  be  sorted,  and 
generally  be  boiled  separately — the  old  and  the 
young — for  while  some  will  be  done  in  less  than  an 
hour  others  take  4  or  5  hours.  To  find  when  they 
are  tender  lift  from  the  boiling  liquor  with  a  fork 
and  pinch  the  flesh  of  the  drumstick.  To  know 
when  they  are  young,  before  cooking,  try  the  point 
of  the  breast  bone.  When  fowls  have  done  growing 
the  entire  breast  bone  hardens,  before  that  it  can  be 
bent.  A  more  reliable  testis,  try  if  you  can  push 
your  thumb  through  the  thin  skin  that  stretches  be- 
tween the  joint  of  the  wings.  It  is  quite  essential  to 
make  the  matter  of  age  sure  before  boiling  a  boned 
fowl  done  up  in  cloth. 


V56. 


Chicken  Salad. 


Boil  3  or  4  fowls  in  the  stock  boiler  and  when 
done  tender  set  them  away  to  get  cold. 

1.  Cut  all  the  meat  of  the  fowls  into  strips,  and 
then  across,  making  dice  shapes,  and  as  small  as 
time  will  allow,  but  don't  chop  it. 

Cut  6  or  8  heads  of  celery  the  same  way. 

Prepare  either  the  mayonaise  or  the  salad  dressing 
made  wi'h  cooked  yolks. 

Mix  with  both  the  chicken  and  the  celery,  but 
seperately,  a  li>  tie  eil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  ealt — 
>ist  enough  to  moisten  and  make  them  look  juicy- 


then  press  the  chicken  into  an  oval  mould  such  as  a 
melon  mould  or  common  jelly  mould  or  a  deep  dish. 
The  oil,  etc.,  will  cause  it  to  preserve  a  good  shape. 
Turn  it  out  on  to  a  flat  meat  dish.  Spread  the  thick 
mayonaise  all  over  and  smooth  it  with  a  knife,  and 
place  the  seasoned  celery  around  with  a  spoon. 
Decorate  the  salad  with  whatever  may  be  con- 
venient, not  always  alike.  A  rose  cut  out  of  a  beet, 
or  a  row  of  them,  with  parsley  or  other  green, 
natural  flowers,  capers,  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  and 
so  forth,  or  chopped  red  cabbage  sparingly  sprinkled 
over,  or  cut  lemons. 

Individual  dishes  just  the  same  as  above,  but 
shaped  in  individual  moulds,  or  in  egg  cups  can 
have  a  cherry  scooped  out  of  a  coc  ked  beet  on  top, 
or  a  green  pickle — ways  that  are  short  and  speedy, 
and  olives  either  plain  or  stoned  and  stuffed  come  in 
good  place. 


2.  It  is  not  essential  to  have  a  salad  dressing  for 
the  above,  but  does  well  enough  to  add  more  oil  and 
vinegar  to  the  chicken  and  mince  the  celery  fine. 
Celery  so  minced  and  mixed  with  oil  and  vinegar 
has  a  buttery  appearance  and  will  keep  shape 
when  moulded,  as  it  may  be  to  form  a  border.  Gar- 
nish with  sliced  or  quartered  eggs  beside. 

3.  Cut  the  chicken  small.  Prepare  one-third  as 
much  celery  and  a  similar  quantity  of  green  lettuce. 
Mix  all  and  pour  over  a  thin  mayonaise  or  other 
dressing  in  a  bowl.  Combine  thoroughly,  and  dish 
up  spoonfuls  piled  a  little  in  flat  dishes. 

Border  of  small  lettuce  leaves,  shred  lettuce  or 
minced  yolks  of  eggs.  This  should  not  be  pasty, 
as  thick  dressing  would  make  it. 

Y5t.  

Veal  salad  may  be  made  like  chicken..    It  is  best 

to  call  it  veal  salad  and  make  it  as  good  as  chicken 
if  possible. 


758. 


Turkey  Salad. 


The  same  as  chicken  salad.  In  cutting  up  the 
meat  it  is  best  to  leave  out  the  thick  fat  skin.  With 
chickens  it  makes  no  difference. 

759,    Mayonaise  of  Chicken. 


Bone  4  young  but  plump  chickens.  There  need 
be  no  difficulty  in  this.  First  cut  down  the  back 
and  then  cut  close  to  the  bones.  It  makes  no 
difference  if  you  do  cut  through  the  skin  once  in  a 
while.  Carve  through  the  hip  joints,  inside,  and 
take  the  leg  bones  out  after  those  of  the  carcass. 
Wash  the  chickens  in  cold  water,  dry  them,  lay  out 
on  a  table  and  dredge  plentifully  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Then  lay  two  together,  the  white  meat  of  one 
on  the  dark  meat  of  the  other,  double  or  roll  them 
up  loosely,  tie  round  with  twine  and  boil  them  ia 
the  stock  boiler  an  hour. 


202 


THE  A2ffEBICAN  COOK. 


When  done  take  oflF  the  twine  and  hj  the  chicVrns 
out  flat  on  two  large  plaiters,  place  other  platters 
en  top,  set  in  a  c  >ld  place  and  a  weight  on  to  press 
them  to  about  an  inch  in  thicknesB. 

When  quite  cold  cut  the  edges  of  the  pressed 
fowls  square  and  divide  them  in  shapes  all  of  ote 
size.  Oblongs  and  parallel'-grams  are  most  in  stjie, 
and  tbey  laid  not  straight  in  the  dish  but  slantwise, 
leaTiDg  the  ends  of  the  dish  for  the  garoish.  Pre- 
pare some  majonaise  of  savory  jeily  by  mixing 
thick  mayot'ai?e  with  a  third  as  much  aspic  jelly 
and  when  about  to  set  pour  a  coating  over  each 
piece  of  the  chicken  placed  on  large  dishes  for  the 
purpose. 

Prepare  the  small  dishes — 25  or  80  of  them — 
with  a  bed  sometimes  of  chopped  green  salad 
material  or  white  celery,  at  others  with  finely 
minced  eggs. 

Mince  also  a  spoonful  of  piclled  blood  beets,  the 
iame  of  green  pickles  and  mix  them  with  a  like 
quantity  of  minced  yolk  of  eggs,  but  only  the 
minute  before  using,  less  the  beets  color  them  all. 

When  the  dressing  on  the  chicken  is  perfectly 
cold  and  set  take  each  piece  on  a  fork  in  the  end 
and  lightly  dip  the  npper  side  in  the  minced  beets 
etc.,  on  a  plate,  and  place  it  on  its  dish.  At  each 
end  phce  a  slice  of  lemon. 


Jelly  mixed  wi*h  cream  sauce  in  proportion  to 
make  it  set  can  be  used  in  place  of  the  mayonaise. 


Chickens  cut  up  in  joints,  after  boiling  and  cool- 
ing, and  the  pieces  smoothly  trimmed,  can  be 
dressed  as  above  and  for  a  large  dish  may  be  piled 
around  a  center  of  lettuce  salad. 

V60.  Fillets  of  Fowl  in  Aspic. 


This  way  of  getting  the  fillets  ready,  if  not  quite 
the  best,  is  easier  for  everybody  to  practice  than 
faking  them  off  raw  and  braising  with  wine  and 
seasonings. 

Cut  the  breasts  from  4  boiled  fowls  while  hot, 
taking  them  off  with  a  pointed  knife  cloue  to  the 
'bone,  with  care  not  to  tear  or  let  the  under  fillet 
separate  from  the  large  one. 

Dip  these  whole  fillets  in  the  stock  they  were 
boiled  in,  dredge  wi»h  salt  and  white  pepper  and 
then  press  them  bciween  two  dishes  with  a  weight 
on  top.  When  qui  e  cold  trim  the  fillets  in<o  pear 
shape,  then  with  a  sharp  knife  divide  them  in  slices 
the  flat,  way.  Lay  the  slices  in  dishes  and  cover 
with  clear  amber  jelly.  When  that  is  set  cut  out 
tl.e  fillets  and  jelly  with  a  tin  cutter  bent  lo  the 
hhape.  Either  lay  them  on  li  tie  dishes  prepared 
with  a  bed  of  chopped  jelly  if  another  color,  or  bor- 
der them  with  piping  of  chopped  jelly  forced 
through  a  funnel  or  cornel  made  of  writing  paper, 
and  lay  a  slice  of  lemon  on  top. 

Ihd  f)ct  is  if  the  most  splendid  feasts  of  ficiton 


have  been  left  incomplete  and  spoiled  for  the  want 
of  salads,  it  is  because  salads  are  un-English  and 
the  authors  are  rathtr  unfortunate  than  to  blame. 
There  is  a  remark  in  A  History  of  Our  Own  Timts  to 
(he  effect  that  England  is  govenied  by  phrases,  and 
no  phrase  more  powerful  than  to  say  a  thing  is  un- 
English.  And  it  has  to  be  remembered  King 
Ptichard  fought  Saladin  in  Palestine  as  King  James 
fought  tobacco  in  England,  and  his  countrymen  and 
their  descendants  have  been  languidly  putting 
down  salad  in  various  ways  ever  since.  Among  all 
the  incomplete  banquets  of  English  novelists,  the 
man  who  can  make  a  mayonaise  was  never  bo  badly 
needed  as  at  one  in  the  beginning  of  The  Cloister 
andthe  Ilearth.  The  feast  is,  alas,  a  column  long 
and  though  quite  a  curiosity  to  culinarians  is  too 
long  to  copy.  It  is  Aladdin's  cavern  garden,  with 
fruit  of  gold  and  silver — the  Land  of  Cockaigne 
with  roast  pig  crying,  "eat  me  !" — the  wine  flowing 
valley  of  Rasselas — a  Vitellius  banquet — a  feast  of 
Penelope's  suitors — and  a  Lallah  Roohk's  attend- 
ance all  joined  in  one  Flemish  prince's  festivity. 
Fifteen  many-colored  eoups  and  as  many  wines. 
Fish  in  a  dozen  forms.  Patties  of  lobster  and  al- 
monds mixed,  and  of  almonds  and  cream  and  an 
immense  variety  of  "brouetp,"  "known  to  us  as 
rissoles."  A  whole  hog  with  hair  and  eyes  too 
naturally  imitated  with  burnt  sugar,  an  ox  stuffed 
full  of  all  sorts  of  small  animals  and  roasted  whole. 
Twenty  different  tarts  of  fruits  and  herbs.  Con- 
fectionery on  a  gigantic  scale.  Hippocras  and 
Greek  and  Corsican  wines.  But  no  salads  !  And 
would  not  twenty  different  kinds  of  salads, 
jardiniere,  Italienne,  a  la  Russe,  and  aspics  have 
shone  gorgeously  amidst  all  that  splendor?  It 
might  be  contended  that  Flanders  was  not  a  salad- 
making  country,  but  Webster's  dictionary  eays  that 
the  word  slaw  is  nothing  but  Flemish  elaa,  and  that 
is  only  their  way  of  pronouncing  French  salade  ; 
and  that  kohl  is  the  German  for  cabbage  and  we  call 
kohl  cold,  so  that  cold  slaw  is  in  reality  cabbage 
salade,  that  is  to  say  is  k  ohl  salad  or 

761,  COI-D  SLAW. 

As  served  with  raw  oysters  and  sometimes  with 
roast  turkey  or  wild  fowls  instead  of  water  cress, 
cold  slaw  is  simply  tender  white  cabbage  shred  as 
fine  as  it  is  possible  to  shred  it.  Served  in  place  of 
salad  at  dinner  it  has  only  vinegar  poured  over  it. 

TO».      German  Cold  Slaw. 

2  pints  of  chopped  white  cabbage. 

1  pint  of  chopped  apples. 

1  pint  of  cider  vinegar. 

1  tablespoonful  of  white  sugar. 

Salt,  pepper,  and  some  capers  for  garnish. 

Chop  the  cabbage  and  the  apples  seperately,  then 
mix  them  and  the  seasoning. 

Serve  large  spoonfuls  neatly  rounded  in  individili* 
al  flat  dishes,  with  capers  strewn  over  the  top. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK, 


d08 


T«3. 


Cabbage  Salad. 


Chop  white  cabbage,  season  with  salt  and  vinegar, 
make  in  smooth  shape  in  a  flat  dish  and  pour  dress 
ing  over  (see  celery  salad.) 

Strew  chopped  beeta  on  top. 

The  Italian  and  French  cooks  don't  take  kindly  to 
slaw  either  cold  or  hot — seem  not  to  understand  it, 
or  they  think  it  barbarous  and  uncouth — and  many 
of  them  will  never  ma^e  ii  of  their  own  free  will  aud 
▼olition.  Perhaps  they  would  like  it  better  if  they 
only  knew  that  slaa  has  come  down  in  direct  de- 
Bcent  from  their  own  salade  and  sallet.  And  they 
ought  to  peiceive  that  hot  slaw  is  essentially 
nothing  else  but  shred  cabbage  blanched  in  thin  hot 
hollandaise  sauce,  which  they  are  used  to. 


764. 


Hot  Slaw. 


3  quarts  of  finely  shred  cabbage. 

1  pint  of  vinegar. 

J  pint  of  water. 

8  or  10  raw  yolks  of  eggs. 

1  pod  of  red  pepper,  minced. 

8  ounces  of  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Put  the  cabbage  in  a  bright  sink  of  the  steam 
chest,  or,  otherwise,  in  a  bright  saucepan  placed  in 
another  of  boiling  water.  Beat,  the  yolks  in  the 
vinegar  and  water  till  well  mixed  then  add  them 
ftnd  the  butter  and  salt  and  pepper  to  the  cabbage. 
Stir  and  turn  over  the  cabbage  frequently  till  the 
sauce  thickens  and  becomes  like  cream.  It  ought 
not  to  boil  more  than  a  minute. 


The  foregoing  dish  stands  alone.  It  is  a  class  by 
itself.  It  cannot  go  under  the  head  of  salads  but 
must  take  a  pince  among  the  vegetables.  But  it  is 
a  general  favorite.  There  is  a  popular  usage  of 
calling  all  cooked  green  vegetables  salads  as  well  as 
garden  sauce ;  and  there  is  foreign  authority, 
though  not  very  "hefiy,"  for  styling  all  hot  vegeta- 
bles that  have  a  vinegar  dressing,  like  our  stewed 
beets  with  sour  butter  sauce,  en  salade. 

But  these  are  not  dictionary  definitions.  The  line 
must  be  drawn  somewhere.     All  salids  are  cold. 


Here  is  a  place  where  greens  are  called  salad.  It 
is  from  Beverley's  History  of  Virginia,  and  quoted  by 
Thoreau : 

"The  Jamestown  weed  or  thorn-apple,  being  an 
early  plant,  was  gathered  very  young  for  a  boiled 
salad,  by  some  of  the  soldiers  sent  to  Virginia  to 
quell  the  rebellion  of  Bacon  ;  and  some  of  them  ate 
plentifully  of  it,  the  effect  of  which  was  a  very 
pleasant  comedy,  for  they  turned  natural  fools  upon 
it]  for  several  days :  one  would  blow  up  a  feather  in 
the  air ;  anothrr  would  dart  straws  at  it  with  much 
fury  ;  arid  another  was  sitting  up  in  a  corner  like  a 
monkey,  grinning  and  making  mouths  at  them;  a 


fourth  would  fondly  kiss  and  paw  his  companions, 
and  sneer  in  their  f.ces,  with  a  countenance  more 
antic  than  any  Dutch  droll.  A  thousand  such  sim- 
ple tricks  they  played,  and  after  eleven  days  re- 
turned to  themselves  again,  not  remembering  any- 
thing that  had  pasted." 

It  was  right,  of  course,  for  them  to  boil  greens 
when  they  went  to  quell  bacon,  gammon  and 
spinach  slways  go  together ;  but  ought  not  the 
properties  of  "Jimson  weed"  be  thoroughly  inquired 
into  ?  People  in  hotels  often  act  with  extreme 
foolishness,  but  landlords  never  think  of  investiga- 
ting whether  there  wasn't  some  "Jimson"  in  the 
greens  boiled  for  dinner. 

The  proper  definii ions  divide  salads  in  two  classes, 
the  artificial,  elaborate,  compounded  and  peculiar 
like  those  just  passed  along,  and  the  spontaneoup, 
natural  find  universal,  the  dinner  of  herbs  and 
peace,  like  these  remaining.  These  salads  come  in 
favor  about  the  time  the  people  who  can  are  packing 
their  trunks  and  discussicg  the  merits  and  demerits 
of  the  different  summer  resorts. 


'  0,  what  is  so  rare  as  a  day  in  June? ** 

— Sir  Launfal, 
«*  When  daisies  pied,  and  violets  blue. 

And  lady-smacks  all  silver-white, 
And  cuckoo-buds  of  yeUow  hue 
Do  paint  the  meadows  wii  h  delight." 

— Lov£ s  Labours  Lost. 


**ycrj,  very  soft  and  merry 
Is  the  natural  song  of  earth." 

— Barry  Cornwall, 
"But   where  is  the  man  that  can  live  without 
diLing?**  —  Owen  Meredith. 

*  Or  cloy  the  hungry  edge  of  appetite 
By  bare  imagination  of  a  feast  " 

— King  Richard  II. 


T05. 


Lattuoe  Salad. 


1.  Keep  the  lettuces,  after  washing  and  trim- 
ming, in  ice  water  till  near  dinner  time.  Shake  the 
water  from  them  and  give  them  time  to  drain  upside 
down.  Dish  the  tender  heart  leaves  only  in  shallow 
bowls,  and  t^liced  hard-b  .iled  eggs  on  top. 

The  lettuce  though  cold  and  fresh  should  be  dry, 
except  for  pieces  of  ice  strewn  over  in  warm  weather. 
The?e  bowls  are  to  be  set  on  the  dinner  tables. 

Tbe  freshest  eggs  may  look  bad  when  turned  blue 
by  too  long  bailing,  but  if  is  not  certain  that  even 
lorg  boiling  will  eo  discolor  them  if  they  be  plunged 
immediately  in  the  coldest  water.  Between  the 
cooks,  the  pantrymen,  the  head  waiter  and  the 
second  steward  it  happens  that  the  eggs  on  lettuce 
nearly  always  come  out  blue. 

B"il  eggs  six  minutes ;  pour  off  the  bot  water  im- 
mediately and  fill  up  with  cold. 


204 


THE  AMEBIQAN  COOK. 


2.  Cat  lettuce  in  shreds  like  oold  slaw,  with  ft 
sharp  knife,  on  a  board  kept  for  the  purpose.  Have 
some  chopped  eggs  ready  on  a  plate  and  a  cupful  of 
vinegar  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  in  a  pitcher. 

Dish  up  only  as  called  for,  some  lettuce  in  a  deep 
dish,  the  vinegar  poured  over,  and  eggs  dredged  on 
top. 

3,  Cut  the  lettuce  first  in  shreds  and  then  across, 
quite  small.  It  will  not  do  to  chop  it  in  a  bowl  as 
that  blackens  it. 

Have  a  thin  salad  dressing  in  a  pitcher  separate, 
and  a  plate  of  *he  smallest  heart  leaves  of  lettuce  at 
hand.  Dish  up  as  called  for,  the  lettuce  in  the  dish, 
dressing  poured  all  over  it  and  two  or  three  leaves 
set  in  for  garnish. 

One^of  the  things  that  helps  to  lower  the  estima- 
tion people  have  of  hotel  tables  is  the  way  they  have 
in  some  houses,  where  they  take  an  interest  in 
nothing  but  calm  stagnation,  of  making  lettuce 
salads  hours  before  they  are  wanted  and  dishing 
them  black-looking,  wilted  and  warm. 

It  ruins  lettuce  to  let  it  lie  in  vinegar  long. 


766.    Lettuee  Sweet  Salad. 


6  or  8  heads  of  lettuce. 
12  small  spring  onions. 

1  cup  of  vinegar. 
^  cup  of  sugar. 

2  sprigs  of  garden  mint. 

Cut  the  lettuce  small ;  slice  in  the  white  part  of  the 
onions  with  very  little  of  the  green  ;  chop  the  mint. 
Mix  all.    Serve  cold. 


Some  people  say  lettuce  should  never  be  washed 
as  water  spoils  it,  but  be  gathered  fresh  from  the 
garden  and  broken  into  the  salad  bowl.  That  will 
do  for  the  lady  of  a  house,  but  will  never  do  for  ho- 
tel work.  Here  is  a  story  some  centuries  old  of  a 
giant,  that  will  tell  why : 

"The  story  requireth  that  we  relate  what  hap- 
pened unto  six  pilgrims,  who  came  from  Sebastian 
near  to  Nantes ;  and  who  for  shelter  that  night,  be- 
ing afraid  of  the  enemy,  had  hid  themselves  in  the 
garden  upon  the  chicheling  pease,  among  the  cab- 
bages and  lettices.  Gargantua,  finding  himself 
somewhat  dry,  asked  whether  they  could  get  any 
lettice  (0  make  him  a  sallad ;  and  hearing  that  there 
Y.  ere  the  greatest  and  fairest  in  the  country  (for 
they  were  as  great  as  plum  trees)  he  would'  go 
thither  himself,  and  brought  thence  in  his  hand 
what  he  thought  good,  and  withal  carried  away  the 
six  pilgrims,  who  were  in  so  great  fear,  they  did  not 
dare  to  speak  nor  cough. 

**Wa  Ling  them,  therefore,  first  at  the  fountain, 
the  pilgrims  said  one  to  another  softly,  'What  shall 
we  do  ?  we  are  almost  drowned  here  amongst  these 
lettices,  shall  we  speak  ?    but  if  we  speak  he  will 


kill  us  for  spies  ?'  As  they  were  thus  deliberating 
what  to  do,  Gargantua  put  them  with  the  lettice  in- 
to a  platter  of  the  house  as  large  as  the  huge  tun  of 
the  Cistertians,  which  done,  with  oil,  vinegar  and 
salt,  he  eat  them  up,  to  refresh  himself  a  litle  before 
supper,  and  had  already  swallowed  up  five  of  the 
pilgrims,  the  sixth  being  in  the  platter,  t^^tally  hid 
under  the  lettice,  except  his  stafi"  that  appeared,  and 
nothing  else ;  which  Grangousier  seeing,  said  to 
Gargantua,  'I  think  that  is  the  horn  of  a  shell  snail, 
do  not  eat  it."  'Why  not  V  said  Gargantua ;  'they 
are  good  all  this  month,'  which  he  no  sooner  said 
but  drawing  up  the  staff,  and  therewith  taking  up 
the  pilgrim,  he  eat  him  very  well,  then  drank  a  ter- 
rible draught  of  excellent  white-wine,  and  expected 
supper  to  be  brought  up." 

Nowadays  we  call  those  pilgrims  insects.  Moral : 
wash  your  lettuce  well  and  look  between  the  leaves ; 
likewise  your  curled  endive,  or  chicory. 

TOT,  Lettuce  Salad  with  Oil. 

A  six  quart  bowl  of  shred  lettuce. 
12  hard-boiled  eggs. 

1  pint  of  vinegar. 

1  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

^  pint  of  olive  oil. 

Pepper  and  salt. 

Chop  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  separately, 
and  mix  the  whites  with  the  lettuce.  Pour  the  oil 
over  and  stir  up.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  vinegar, 
with  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  them  to  the  let- 
tuce and  toss  over  with  a  fork  till  well  mixed. 
Strew  the  chopped  yolks  on  top. 


768. 


Endive  Salads. 


In  all  respects  the  same  as  lettuce.  It  is  oftenest 
used  with  lettuce,  being  more  ornamental  to  "top 
ofP'  with. 


709. 


To  Curl  Celery. 


It  is  only  necessary  to  slit  the  tops  evenly  with  a 
penknife  and  set  the  celery  in  glasses  of  ice- water. 

Leave  enough  of  the  green  tops  on  for  ornament. 
Take  two  turns  of  twine  round  the  upper  part  of  the 
stalks  for  a  guide-mark.  The  tops  when  slit  curl 
outwards  just  as  far  down  as  the  cuts  extend  and 
these  should  be  of  uniform  length. 


"I  am  a  great  foe  to  dinners,  and  indeed  to  all 
meals.  1  think  when  the  good  time  comes  we  shall 
give  up  eating  in  public,  except  perhaps  fruit  on  a 
green  bank  with  music." 

— Consuelo-Theodora — Lothair, 
*'I  know  a  bank  where  the  wild  thjme  blows." 

— ArieL 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


205 


"I  bring 
A  scrip  with  herbs  and  fruits  supplied, 
And  water  from  the  spring.'* 

—  Vtcar  of  Wakefield. 


ll^O. 


"Water-Oress. 


Universally  a  favorite  in  great  Britain,  but 
American  cultivators  complain  that  there  is  not 
sufficient  demand  for  it  to  justify  them  for  their 
trouble.  It  grows  in  running  water,  and  is  indig- 
enous in  many  of  our  mountain  streams.  It  is 
used  to  serve  with  roast  fowls  instead  of  a  sauce, 
for  garnishing,  and,  eaten  with  salt  only,  as  a  relish 
at  tea  or  supper.  It  should  be  carefully  picked 
over  and  trimmed  of  about  half  the  stems  that  are 
generally  brought  to  market. 


TTl. 


Radishes. 


Better  for  breakfast  than  for  dinner,  and  may  be 
cut  up  to  mix  with  early  garden-cress  in  lettuce 
salad. 


77». 


Cucumbers. 


1.  Serve  them  most  of  the  time  plain  sliced  with 
only  pounded  ice  strewn  over. 

2.  Make  a  salad  by  mixing  with  the  thin  sliced 
cucumbers  a  few  slices  of  onions  and  pouring  over 
vinegar  to  cover,  with  pepper  and  salt. 

8,  Make  a  cucumber  salad  by  pouring  a  salad 
dressing  over  the  cucumbers,  and  use  sliced  toma- 
toes to  garnish  the  dishes. 


Let  him  carry  home  his  leeks  and  shake  his  flanks 
over  his  wool-beating ;  he'll  mend  matters  more 
that  way.  The  taxes  that  harm  him  most  are  his 
heavy  carcass  and  his  idleness. 

— Romola, 


TT». 


Onions. 


Sliced  onions  in  vinegar  are  as  much  in  demand 
as  anything  else  in  some  places,  however  little  the 
green  bunches  may  be  patronized  on  the  hotel  table. 
There  is  a  great  difference  between  the  large  white 
Spanish  onion  which  is  mild  and  ionocent,  and  the 
strong  red-skinned  sorts.  All  of  them  may  be  im- 
proved by  steeping  the  slices  in  ice-water  and  then 
drying  between  two  clean  towels  before  putting  in 
vinegar  or  mixing  with  sliced  tomatoes  or  cucum- 
bers. 


TT4, 


Beets. 


Are  most  acceptable  sliced  in  vinegar  and  served 
cold.  Cooked  of  course  till  tender,  though  we  find 
French    directions    for    putting   beets    in  jars  of 


vinegar  with  carraway  and  coriander  seeds,  without 
saying  whether  cooked  or  raw.  Beets  are  used  in 
Poland,  Hungary  and  thereabouts,  fermented  and 
in  many  other  ways  that  would  seem  very  outlandish 
and  perhaps  disgusting  to  Americans. 


TT5, 


Tomatoes. 


1.  Serve  them  ofienest  plain  sliced  in  shallow 
bowls  on  the  table  either  for  breakfast  or  dinner, 
with  only  broken  ice  laid  on  them. 

2.  Make  a  tomato  salad  by  mixing  in  a  small 
proportion  of  sliced  cucumbers  and  onions  and 
pouring  over  them  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt.  Gar- 
nish with  leaves  of  heart  lettuce. 

3.  Slice  tomatoes  in  individual  deep  dishes  and 
pour  a  salad  dressing  over. 

4.  Tomatoes  are  liked  by  many  people  with  a 
dressing  of  sugar  and  vinegar,  like  the  lettuce  sweet 
salad. 


For  there  is  a  natural  craving  for  something 
herbaceous,  green,  and  sour,  and  if  debarred  from 
regular  salads,  from  vinegar  and  sugar,  people  seek 
such  substitutes  as  nature  furnishes. 

"Bread  itself  was  a  delicacy  seldom  thought  of, 
because  hard  to  be  obtained,  and  milk,  butter  and 
poultry  were  out  of  the  question  in  this  Scythian 
camp.  *  *  *  ^t  — the  meal  which 
she  had  so  sedulously  arranged,  and  to  which  she 
now  added  a  few  bunchesof  cranberries,  gathered 
in  an  adjacent  morass." 

—  Waverley. 

"While  Joe  was  gone  back  in  the  canoe  for  the 
frying-pan,  which  had  been  left,  we  picked  a  couple 
of  quarts  of  tree-cranberries  for  sauce.  This  sauce 
was  very  grateful  to  us  who  had  been  confined  to 
hard  bread,  pork  and  moose-meat. 

— The  Maine  Woods. 
"I  may  mention  that  rhubarb  was  cut  in  thin 
slices  and  eaten  with  salt,  quite  raw.    Melon  seeds, 
salted,  were  also  very  plentifuU" 

— IVavels  in  Persia. 
"American  college  girls  are  much  addicted  to  eat- 
ing unripe  apples  with  salt." 

— Medical  Journal. 
But  now  we  have  enough  of  salads.    This  is  what 
too  much  salad  brings  a  man  to : 

"At  last  they  found — his  foragers  for  charms — 
A  little  glassy-headed,  hairless  man. 
Who  lived  alone  in  a  great  wild  on  grass ; 
Read  but  one  book,  and  ever  reading,  grew 
So  grated  down  and  filed  away  with  thought. 
So  lean  his  eyes  were  monstrous ;  while  the  skin 
Olung  but  to  crate  and  basket,  ribs  and  spine. 

*        *        *        *      '  that  old  man 
Went  back  to  his  old  wild  and  lived  on  grass. 
And  vanished,  and  his  book  came  down  to  me." 
— Merlin  and  Vivim. 


J06 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


776.    Mock  Mayonaise. 

A  ctk  who  knows  n  Jhing  but  the  best  may 
fare  badly  sometimes  if  he  go  to  a  restaurant  where 
he  is  expected  to  make  the  following  and  is  unable 
to  meet  the  requirement: 

Make  the  cooked  paste  precisely  as  if  for  cream 
puffs  (No.  296)  using  butter.  Perhaps  half  of  that 
receipt  will  suflBce.  Work  in  eggs  the  same  way. 
\\hen  it  is  nearly  soft  enough  begin  and  add  a 
little  oil  and  a  li'tle  vinegar,  then  another  whole 
egg,  a  little  mustard,  mrre  oil  and  vinegar,  and  so 
on  until  it  is  like  mayonaise.  A  large  quantity  cm 
be  made  wi  h  but  little  expense  for  olive  oil  in  that 
way.  This  mock  sauce  is  used  to  spread  over  the 
top  of  a  chicken  or  lobi-ter  salad  in  many  restaur- 
ants that  are  called  first  class. 


fowl,  and  only  call  it  a  galantine  when  it  is  orna- 
mented. This  is  as  it  should  be,  for  the  word 
galantine  in  from  the  same  root  as  the  French 
gallantin,  gallant,  "a  beau,"  "something  pleasant  to 
look  upon,"  '  a  nobby  fellow,"  as  it  is  variously  de 
fined. 

Many  good  things  on  the  bill  of  fare  are  partly 
thrown  away  for  want  of  a  popular  understanding 
of  the  names,  hence  we  think  the  space  devoted  to 
this  question  is  not  wasted,  and  now  will  try  to  ob- 
serve the  distinction  between  plain  boned  turkey 
and  turkey  galantine. 


The  custom  is  growing  in  favor  everywhere  and 
s  particularly  prevalent  now  in  San  Francisco  of  set- 
ting a  midday  lunch  instead  of  dinner  and  having 
the  dinner  at  5  or  6  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

This  lunch  makes  a  demand  fur  good  work  in  cold 
dishes  of  all  kinds,  and  gives  encouragement  for  its 
display  that  is  never  experienced  under  ths  plan  of 
three  hot  meals  a  day.  Tie  various  articles  con- 
sidered in  this  category  of  salads  and  cold  dishes 
have  everyone  of  them  a  use  for  the  midday  cold 
meal,  they  can  be  set  out  to  the  utmost  advantage, 
and  become  as  important  a  part  of  the  steward' h 
and  cook's  resources  as  the  entrees,  roasts  and  game 
for  a  hot  dinner. 


"Four-year-old  mutton  modestly  disclaiming  its 
own  me. its  hj  affecting  the  shape  and  assuming  the 
adjuncts  of  venison  " 

— Eugene  Aram. 
♦'  'Does  he  say  he  is  a  cuisinierf  because  if  he  does 
he's  a  quizzirC -yer ^  says  Mr.  VVeg." 

— Pendennii. 


Itl. 


Galantines. 


A  galantine,  strictly,  is  any  kind  of  meat  with 
the  bones  taken  out,  but  that  is  not  the  common  un- 
derstanding ;  and  it  is  not  strictly  obliged  to  be  a 
cold  dish— that  is  according  to  dictionary  definitions 
of  th9  word — bi:t  yet  the  general  understanding  is 
that  it  should  be.  In  one  of  the  royal  menus  re- 
cen'ly  passed  io  review  through  this  column  there 
is  a  dish  of  galantines  of  quail  with  truflSes  among 
the  entrees,  and,  although  one  has  no  means  of 
reaching  a  certainty  on  such  a  point,  it  is  quite  as 
likely  it  was  a  hot  dish  of  bonelsss  qu'iils  as  a  cold 
one.  The  boned  legs  of  fowls  stuffed  with  a  force- 
meat are  termed  galantines  by  one  of  our  authorities, 
cold,  however. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  meaning  a  hundred 
years  ago  it  wou'd  lo>k  very  ridiculous  now  to  call 
a  rolled  up  fi  let  of  veal  or  a  boned  ribs  of  beef 
rolled  up,  a  galantine,  or  a  boned  boar's  head  a 
gilantine.  The  term  is  applied  only  to  fowls  of  a  1 
kinds  andbi^ds. 

Another  unwritten  distinction  I  find  is  made  by 
cooks — and  I  have  met  with  a  good  many  of  all 
sizes,  and  who  never  knew  the  drift  of  my  cross- 
questioning,  and  that  is  to  call  a  bened  fowl  a  boned 


Doubtless  there  is  some  sort  of  responsibility  at- 
tached to  this  privilege  of  wide  spread  publicity 
through  the  columns  of  a  daily  newspaper.  It  is 
not  quite  the  same  as  depositing  matters  snugly  be- 
tween book  overs,  never  to  be  opened,  never  to  be 
seen,  and  no  barm  d  ne.  Perhaps  it  is  my  du  y  to 
bring  the  little  power  much  multiplied  to  the  rescue 
of  the  noble  bird  of  Thanksgiving,  the  American 
turkey,  from  the  prevai  ing  mi>usage  which  makes 
it  undtr  the  name  of  boned  turkey  to  serve  but  as 
a  distended  lion's  hide  to  c  >ver  the  recreant  meat  of 
a  cilf,  and  this  without,  intent,  of  palming  off  a  sham, 
but  timply  because  of  wrong  teaching. 

Some  two  or  three  years  ago  it  lay  in  my  way  to 
remark  in  these  columns  that  a  boned  fowl  should 
be  stuffed  with  another  boned  fuwl,  and  I  have 
since  been  told  that  some  old  parties  were  as  much 
astonished  thereat  as  were  certain  other  old  parties 
when  Oliver  Twist  asked  for  more.  Still  the  world 
moves. 

As  for  the  consumer's  part  no  words  are  needed 
to  show  him  that  when  he  asks  for  a  plate  of  boned 
turkey  he  should  not  receive  for  it  a  mess  of  iashed 
veal  in  a  thin-stretched  turkey's  skin. 

As  for  the  landlord  or  employer,  who  is  most  like- 
ly to  be  looked  npon  as  responsible  fur  the  perpetra- 
tion of  a  species  of  fraud  too  small  evfn  to  kick 
about,  he  knows  nothing  whatever  about  it,  and  m^y 
even  have  wondered  that  his  own  plate  of  boned 
turkey  should  seem  so  far  from  turkey  and  so  near 
Bologna  sauspge.  The  fault  is  with  the  regular 
cooks,  and  piimarily  with  the  European  teachers  of 
cookeiy  from  whom  all  our  ho  el  a  la* a  are  derived. 
Were  this  a  trick  of  the  trade  (but  indeed  there  are 
very  few  tricks  in  our  trade)  of  advantage  econom- 
ically or  otherwise,  silence  might  be  golden  in 
respect  to  it,  but  while  our  prolific  Southern  and 
Western  States  turn  off  ^apultry    cheaper    during  li 


THE  AMERICAN  COOB!. 


807 


large  portion  of  the  year  than  vea!,  it  must  be 
matter  of  gurprise  that  but  few  of  our  people  know 
what  genuiae  boned  turkey  is,  for  the  reason  that 
the  cooks  ^ill  push  the  poultry  aside  and  take 
trouble  to  use  veal  instead  at  a  cost  about  a  third 
higher.  This  is  Old-World  routine.  The  cook  does 
as  he  learned  of  an  elder  cook  and  the  older  refers  to 
the  books  which  direct  to  stuff  boned  turkeys,  and 
indeed  almost  everything  of  the  kind  with  minced 
veah  Probably  those  teachers  had  good  reasons  of 
expediency.  Tuj'key  may  have  been  an  expensive 
luxury  and  had  to  be  eked  out.  Possibly  they 
made  genuine  boned  turkey  for  kings  and  such,  and 
thought  veil  good  enough  for  people.  At  any  rate 
they  had  yfhite  veal  that  might  pass  for  chicken. 
In  any  European  city  may  be  seen,  or  might  have 
been  before  Mr.  Bergh'a  time,  butchers*  carts 
packed  with  dying  calves  lying  on  their  backs,  their 
heads  hanging  over  the  edge,  their  throats  half  cut, 
dripping  blood  over  the  cobble  stones,  making 
white  veal.  Our  butchers  are  less  brutal  and  our 
veal  is  less  white.  Some  of  our  butchers  are  so 
tender-hearted  they  will  seldom  kill  a  calf  at  all 
till  bis  horns  are  well  grown  in  the  second  year  of 
his  age,  and  do  what  you  will  that  sort  of  veal  al- 
ways refuses  to  look  like  chicken.  We  have  to 
change  our  ways  with  the  changed  times.  Our 
people  are  all  able  and  wiiliog  to  pay  for  boned 
turkey  and  they  want  it,  and  not  beef  sausage. 


We  will  have  another  way  of  stuffing  a  boned 
turkey  besides  the  annexed,  but  this,  to  use  the 
words  of  a  delighted  club  member,  just  recently, 
*  takes  the  cheese" — whatever  that  may  mean.  The 
gentleman  is  a  Britisher  having  millions  in  mines, 
(can't  get 'em  out),  but,  thanks  to  the  error  of 
French  cookery  he  had  never  stuck  his  fork  before 
into  so  unmistakably  genuine  a  galantine  as  this. 


You  are  now  able  to  supply  to  the  hotel  patronB 
that  long  felt  want,  a  turkey  all  breast. 

Roll,  or  raiher  double  up  carefully  the  smaller 
turkey  and  place  it  inside  the  other,  remembering 
to  turn  it  so  that  there  will  be  found  when  the 
galantine  is  cut  a  breast  at  each  end.  Bring  the 
two  edges  of  the  outside  turkey  together  and  sew  it 
up  with  cotton  twine  and  a  large  needle.  Butter  a 
cloth  and  roll  the  galantine  up  in  it  tightly  and 
with  a  good  many  wraps,  and  either  tie  or  sew  it  se- 
curely. Boil  in  soup  stock  with  the  turkey  bones 
added. 


1T8. 


Boned  Turkey. 


2  turkeys. 

1  corned  tongue,  already  cooked. 

1  pound  of  dry  salt  pork. 

8  hard-boiled  eggs. 

1  cupful  of  aspic  jelly. 

Seasonings. 

Take  a  large  and  a  small  turkey  unopened,  singe 
and  wayh  and  then  bone  them,  cutting  first  down 
the  whole  length  of  the  back.  When  boned  lay 
them  skin  downwards  on  the  table  and  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  or  with  spiced  salt.  Cut  the  cooked 
red  tongue  and  the  fat  unsmoked  bacon  into  strips 
penc.l  size  and  lay  them  altercating  on  the  turkey 
meat,  lengthwise  of  the  fowl,  cutting  gashes  in  the 
thickest  parts  to  receive  them  evenly.  Cut  the 
yolks  of  tho  eggs  in  quarters  and  dispose  them 
evenly  am  ,ng  the  s'rips,  then  chop  the  jelly  and 
strew  it  over. 


779.        Boning  a  Turkey. 

Some  wonders  never  do  cease.  The  same  con- 
jurer's trick  of  the  speaking  head  which  Cervantes 
says  so  deeply  impressed  poor  Don  Quixote  still 
astonishes  and  mystifies  some  portion  of  the  public 
at  the  wizard's  show,  and  our  wicked  bu'chers  still 
find  some  customers  can  be  set  strangely  pondering 
when  they  are  told  that  hotel  cooks  can  take  all  the 
bones  out  of  a  turkey  without  ever  cutting  the  skin, 
as  if  it  were  a  feat  like  drawing  a  large  iron  ring 
through  the  neck  of  a  vial.  There  was  no  dfficulty 
in  making  the  egg  stand  on  end  when  Columbus 
had  damaged  the  shell  a  little,  and  you  can  get  at 
the  inwardness  of  a  turkey  quite  easily  after  laying 
the  skin  of  the  back  open.  Cut  close  to  the  bone 
with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  till  the  hip  joints  and 
wingjoints  are  reached  and  cut  partially  around, 
then  with  the  heavy  handle  end  of  a  carving  knife  chop 
through  those  joints,  and  going  a  little  further, 
loosening  all  along,  the  whole  backbone  portion  can 
presently  be  pulled  out  forcibly,  leaving  the  limbs 
and  breast  to  be  boned  separately.  The  wings  and 
drumsticks  have  only  to  be  boned  part  way,  as  the 
meat  is  tucked  into  the  body  ;  the  rest  may  be 
chopped  off.  While  of  course  neat  work  is  better 
than  slovenly  it  does  not  quite  spoil  the  job  if  the 
skin  does  get  an  unkind  cut  sometimes ;  the  very 
top  of  the  breast  bone  is  the  place  requiring  the 
most  care  ;  better  cut  into  the  bone  a  little  than 
risk  a  perforation  where  it  will  show  so  plainly  on 
the  galantine. 

As  the  turkey  is  to  be  pressed  in  the  cloth  after 
cooking  there  should  be  no  bulging  ends  or  seams  in 
the  way  to  leave  their  mark. 

Y80.  

Boiling  and  Pressing  the  Galantine. 

The  largest  and  plumpest  turkeys  are  natura'l) 
chosen  for  boning,  especially  by  those  who  think 
boning  difficult,  but  such  turkeys  are  nearly  always 
old  and  disappointment  will  be  the  result  if  they 
have  not  time  enough  allowed  for  boiling.  Five 
hours  is  little  enough  for  a  large  turkey  stuffed  as 
above,  though  two  hours  will  be  enough  for  a  young 
one. 


208 


THE  AMEBIOAN  COOK. 


Th  7  have  a  nice  letter  press  in  the  office  and 
there  is  a  clothes  press  in  the  housekeeper's  room 
and  another  in  the  laundry,  and  a  cider  press  in  the 
milk  house,  that  is  only  used  once  a  year,  but  I 
don't  thin  it  you  have  in  the  kitclen  a  press  at  all  for 
galantines  or  pressed  beef  or  pigs'  heads  or  head 
cheese,  a  press  wih  assorted  moulds  and  shapes  and 
a  metal  tray  to  ca^ch  the  overflow. 

Let  the  boned  turkey  when  done  remain  in  the 
liquor  it  was  boiled  in  till  cool  enough  to  be  handled, 
then  place  it  betweea  two  large  platters  with  a  fifty 
pound  etone  or  sack  of  flour  on  the  top. 

But  if  it  is  to  be  incised  in  jelly  and  decorated 
press  it  into  a  deep  mould  or  pan  of  some  sort. 

The  long  and  narrow  sinks  of  the  steam  chest, 
with  their  flaring  sides,  are  suitable  and  make  a 
handsome  galantine,  but  common  pans  may  answer 
if  you  have  not  special  moulds.  It  is  only  the  poor 
workman  that  finds  fault  with  his  tools.  Many  of 
the  pretty  but  useless  articles  of  the  French  menu 
may  be  as  well  dispensed  with  but  boned  turkey  is 
(to  be)  an  American  national  dish,  more  than  the 
hunting  beef  or  spiced  round  to  the  Old  Eng  ish 
squire,  or  than  the  boar's  head  to  the  Saxon  thane 
cr  Norman  earl ;  substantial,  always  welcome  and 
when  good  highly  appreciated,  and  therefore  w  orthy 
of  effort. 

781.  ~ 

Boned  Turkey  in  Aspic  Jelly. 

Warm  the  mould  or  shape  and  take  out  the 
pressed  turkey.  Remove  the  cloth,  draw  out  the 
thread,  wipe  ofi"  all  adhering  jelly  and  fat  with  a 
towel  dipped  in  hot  water  and  shave  off"  any  dis- 
colored or  ragged  portions.  With  a  vegetable  cutler 
8'amp  out  half  a  dozen  small  shapes  from  a  th  ck 
sliced  green  pickle  and  place  them  on  the  boitom  of 
the  same  mould,  well  washed  and  dried,  that  the 
turkey  was  pressed  in,  and  place  the  turkey  resting 
on  them.  This  leaves  a  space  under  and  around  for 
a  coating  of  aspic  jelly  to  be  poured  in,  and  when 
quite  cold  and  set  the  boned  turkey  can  be  turned 
out  again  on  to  its  dish,  thinly  but  evenly  encased 
in  clear  jelly,  which  may  be  sliced  and  served  with 
it. 


T88. 

To  be  used  only  to  slice  as  cold  meat  the  turkey 
need  only  have  two  or  three  coats  of  fresh  butter 
melted  and  applied  with  a  brush,  the  turkey  being 
very  cold.  Ornaments  of  jelly,  or  of  chopped  jelly 
forced  through  a  tube  can  still  be  added  if  desired  in 
the  individual  dishes. 


Your  boned  turkey,  whether  incased  in  jelly  or 
not,  will  have  a  h'lndsomer  appearance  to  the  con- 
sumers inside  than  outside,  and  when  sent  to  table 
whole  should  always  on  some  excuse  or  other  be  cut 


first,  the  halves  or  even  the  quarters  of  a  turkey 
that  is  about  all  white  meat  can  be  edged  and 
finished  with  decorations  to  look  as  well  and  in- 
finitely more  appetising  than  any  over-done  "belle- 
vue"  that  is  ever  exhibited. 


We  have  spoken  of  the  trifling  divergence  of  com- 
mon usage  from  the  strict  definition  of  galantine, 
and  have  now  to  notice  the  same  in  regard  to  the 
description  a  la  bellevue  or  en  bellevue.  It  is  ordi- 
narily understood  by  cooks  and  bi  I  rf  fare  writers 
to  mean  that  the  article  is  incased  in  jelly  and  orna- 
mented. But  it  is  applied  by  old  authorities  to  sev- 
eral other  sorts  of  decoration  besides  aspic  jelly, 
even  to  hot  dishes.  The  word  means  literally  a  pret- 
ty eight.  The  modern  usage  is  to  drop  bellevue 
altogether  and  just  say  the  galantine  is  decorated 
(decoree.) 


When  well  done  a  something  en  bellevue  is  un. 
questionably  a  very  handsome  object ;  the  complaint 
is  that  a  party  may  go  to  a  ball  supper  and  go  away 
from  it  hungry  for  all  the  good  a  turkey  done  that 
way  will  do  in  the  way  of  something  to  eat.  It 
looks  too  pretty  to  cut — the  jelly  casing,  not  the 
turkey,  v\hich  indeed  is  not  even  seen — and  besides 
is  not  suggestive  of  anything  to  eat  at  all.  These 
things  might  better  be  made  of  cabinet  work  trans- 
parent glue  and  varnish  and  save  the  cook  his 
wasted  pains. 

783. 
Pyramid  of  Boned  Fowls,  Decorated. 


Get  the  tinner  to  make  three  galantine  moulds  of 
difi'erecit  sizes  flaring  or  tapering  so  that  piled  on 
each  other  upside  down  they  will  form  a  pyramid. 
The  largest  may  hold  six  quarts,  the  next  four,  the 
smallest  two  quarts. 

The  long  and  narrow  shape  almost  like  a  brick, 
with  the  edges  sharp  looks  as  well  as  any,  though 
they  may  be  six  or  eight-sided  if  preferred.  Pre- 
pare three  boned  and  pressed  fowls  to  correspond 
with  the  moulds,  leaving  plenty  of  room  for  the 
jelly. 

Prepare  six  quarts  of  aspic  jelly  clarified  a  second 
time  and  very  firm. 

Prepare  a  large  sheet  of  yellow  custard  made  of 
sixteen  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  over  half  a  cupful 
of  clear  broth  and  steamed  in  a  six-quart  milk  pan 
set  over  a  boiler — the  pan  to  be  buttered  before  the 
custard  is  poured  in,  but  very  slightly. 

Also  prepare  a  similar  sheet  of  white  custard 
made  of  the  whites  of  the  eggd  in  the  eame  way. 

These  custards  when  ccld  are  to  be  loosened 
round  the  edges  and  shaken  out  onto  a  slab,  to  be 
stamped  out  in  fancy  shapes,  spear  heads,  leaves, 
stars,  crescents,  etc. 


THE    AMERICAN  COOK. 


To  mix  with  these  there  may  be  also  fancy  shapes 
cut  from  slices  of  raw  beets,  carrots  and  turnips,  or 
some  kinds  of  pickles,  such  as  mangoes  at d  large 
peppers,  all  well  freed  f.om  moisture.  The  patterns 
have  to  be  graded  in  si/e  to  correspond  with  the 
different  sized  moulds 

Set  each  mould  in  a  pan  of  broken  ice,  water  and 
salt.  Pour  in  some  melted  jelly  and  on  the  jelly  as 
it  coats  the  sides  cnstruct  the  pattern  desired,  and 
when  well  set  pour  over  another  coat  of  jelly  to  se- 
cure it  in  its  place.  Finish  perfectly  even  with  the 
tops  of  the  moulds  with  a  bold  pattern  of  spades  or 
spear  heads  in  close  order,  cut  from  some  firm  mate- 
ria\  to  add  strength  to  the  foundation  edge. 

When  the  decoration  is  completed  and  well  set 
place  the  boned  fowls  inside  and  fill  the  moulds 
around  them  with  clear  jelly  so  nearly  cold  as  not  to 
endanger  melting  the  patterns  from  the  sides. 

Observe  that  the  boned  fowls  must  be  cut  deep 
enough  to  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  mould  and 
reach  quite  even  with  the  top,  as  the  jelly  will  not 
bear  any  pressure  and  the  blocks  of  meat  must  rest 
upon  each  other  when  built  up. 

,  After  building  up  these  decorated  galantines  on  a 
dish  on  a  raised  stand  (sur  socle)  ornament  with 
blocks  and  mou' dings  of  aspic  jelly,  and,  perhaps, 
if  they  be  not  regarded  cut  of  fashion,  with  orna- 
mental silver  skewers  passed  through  wreaths  of 
wax  flowers. 


'*  It  is  csmaaome  which  constitutes  the  real  merit 
of  good  soups,  gives  meat  its  reddish  ticge,  forms 
the  crisp  brown  on  roasts,  and  which  yields  a  flivor 
to  venison  and  game.  This  explains,  by  the  way, 
why  y.)ur  real  connoisseur  has  always,  in  poultry, 
preferred  the  inner  thigh  ;  his  taste  had  instinctive- 
ly anticipated  science." 

— Oastronomie. 

"  *Our  Prior  loves  exceedingly  the  white  of  a  ca- 
pon.* 'In  that,'  s!iid  Gymnast,  'he  doth  not  re- 
semble the  foxes ;  for  of  the  capons,  hens,  and  pul- 
lets which  they  carry  away  they  never  eat  the  white. 
The  leg  of  the  leveret  is  good  for  those  that  have  the 
gout.' " 

— French  Classic. 


T85. 

Galantine  Stuflang— Another  "Way. 


There  is,  to  say  the  least,  nothing  better  or  more 
satisfactory  of  its  kind  than  this.  For  one  medium 
turkey — enough  sliced  for  25  plates — make  3  pounds 
of  forcemeat  of  another  turkey  or  of  chicken  as  fol- 
lows: 


2  full  grown  fowls  boiled  tender. 

6  ounces  of  fat  ealt  pork. 

6  ounces  of  butter. 

6  ounces  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

2  raw  eggs. 

8  hard-boiled  eggs. 

^  pint  of  broth  or  stock. 

1  lemon. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Take  the  dark  meat  of  the  fowls,  cut  it  in  very 
small  dice  and  keep  it  separate.  Take  off  the  white 
meat,  chop  fine  and  then  pound  it  to  a  sort  of  paste. 
Throw  in  the  fat  pork  minced,  the  feaspoonful  of 
pepper  and  salt  and  the  bread  crumbs  and  mix  to- 
gether, and  soften  the  butter  and  stir  in.  Mix  the 
two  raw  eggs  with  the  cup  of  broth  and  add  the 
juice  of  the  lemon,  and  with  this  mixture  moisten 
the  forcemeat.    It  is  now  ready  for  use. 

Lay  the  boned  turkey  out  flat  and  partly  slice 
some  of  the  meat  from  the  thick  parts  and  lap  them 
over  the  thin,  that  the  galantine  may  make  even - 
appearing  slioes  and  not  seem  in  some  parts  all 
stuffing.  Season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  aromatic  or 
spiced  salt,  if  you  keep  that  preparation  on  hand, 
otherwise  dredge  with  pepper  and  salt ;  then  strew 
over  the  turkey  about  half  the  dark  meat  mince,  ana 
over  that  spread  half  the  white  forcemeat.  Take 
the  yolks  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  them  in 
quarters  and  scatter  some  over  the  forcemeat,  then 
the  rest  of  theminced  dark  meat,  then  the  remain- 
ing forcemeat  and  egg  yolks. 

Bring  up  the  two  edges  of  the  boned  turkey  over 
this  stuffing  and  sew  it  securely.  Then  wrap,  boil 
3  hours,  and  press  it  as  already  detailed  for  galan- 
tines. 

If  you  use  truffles  or  fresh  grown  mushrooms  (not 
canned)  they  come  in  place  in  the  white  chicken 
forcemeat  above  instead  of  the  egg  yolks.  The 
whites  of  the  eggs  look  very  well  in  all  these  galan- 
tines and  may  sometimes  be  added  for  variation. 


'786.    Sliced  Galantine  in  Aspic 


Coat  the  sides  of  any  sort  of  handsome  mould — a 
fluted  cake  moulder  jelly  mould  is  as  good  as  any — 
with  clear  jelly,  according  to  the  extended  direc- 
tions for  a  pyramid  already  given ;  line  it  with 
handsome  slices  of  turkey  or  chicken  galantine,  on© 
slice  slightly  overlapping  the  other  ;  in  the  center 
drop  a  piece  of  the  galantine  not  sliced,  or  a  boned 
bird,  fill  up  with  jelly,  and  when  perfectly  cold  and 
set  turn  it  out  onto  its  dish  and  decorate  for  the 
table. 


Y8t. 


Boned  Chicken. 

GALANTINE  DE  POULARDE. 

Malje  in  the  same  ways  as  boned  turkey. 


210 


THE  AMEBIOAN  COOK. 


"Her  lovely  name  is  Blanche.  The  veil  of  t^e 
maiden  is  white  ;  the  wreath  of  roses  which  she 
wears  is  white.  I  determined  that  my  dinner 
sbould  be  as  spotless  as  the  snow,  as  white  as  her 
own  tint— and  confectioned  with  the  most  fragrant 
cream  and  almonds." 

—Mirobolant. — Fendenni&, 


T88. 


White  Galantine. 

CHICKEN  A  LA  BELLEVUB. 

Fill  a  boned  turkey  or  chicken  with  white  chicken 
forcemeat  of  the  kind  last  directed  for  turkey.  If 
wished  to  be  thoroughly  white  substitute  for  the  egg 
yolks  and  dark  meat  some  of  the  whites  of  eggs 
minced,  add  a  f^w  blanched  almonds  and  pistachio 
nuts,  a  pinch  of  ground  mace,  white  pepper  and 
the  juice  of  another  lemon.  Do  the  galantine  up  in 
roundish  or  cushion  shape,  and  press  after  boiling 
between  two  dishes. 

To  coat  it  over  for  ornament  make  three  pints  of 
white  jelly,  with  thin  cream  and  two  ounces  of 
gelatine,  precisely  like  blanc-mange,  but  seasoned 
with  salt  and  a  handful  of  parsley  scalded  in  it  in- 
stead of  sugar.  The  cream  will  curdle  if  allowed  to 
quite  boil  with  the  gelatine  in  it.  Strain  the  white 
jelly,  stir  it  in  a  pan  set  in  ice-water,  and  when  it 
is  just  about  to  set  pour  it  evenly  over  the  galantine, 
which  should  be  in  the  refridgerator  and  very  cold. 

While  it  is  setting  firm  prcp^^re  a  sheet  of  white 
of  egg  custard  as  directed  for  the  pyramid  of  boned 
turkeys,  and  s  amp  out  a  number  of  lenf  and  flower 
shapes.  Lift  the  galantine  on  to  its  dish  and 
decorate  the  smoath  white  surface  and  also  the 
edge  of  the  dish.  A  cord  of  the  white  jelly 
chopped  and  forced  through  a  lady  finger  tube  may 
be  placed  as  a  border  on  the  dish  to  carry  a  wreath 
of  artificial  leaves,  etc. 

789.  "" 

Spiced  Salt  for  Turkey  and  Chicken. 


Tike  half  an  ounce  each  of  the  following — they 
can  generally  be  bought  ready  ground,  but  if  not, 
must  be  dried,  pounded  and  sifted : 

Nutmegs. 

Hace. 

Thym*?. 

Marjoram. 

Basil — and  one  ounce  each  of 

Cloves. 

Pepper — and  a  quarter  ounce  of 

Bay  leaves — and  mix  them  with 

4  pounds  of  fine  salt. 


It  is  not  recommended  to  persons  making  a  galan- 
tine only  occasionally  to  esperiment  with  spice 
flavors,  which  after  ail  may  not  be  appreciated  as 
well  as  the  natural  flavor  of  the  fowl,  yet  where 
such  cold  dishes  appear  constantly  and  where 
everything  is  highly  seasoned  tjje  spices  become  as 


necessary  to  the  cook  as  the  common  sausage  season- 
ings to  the  butcher.  The  following  is  the  French 
pork-butcher's  compound : 

700.  

Aromatic  Salt  for  Boned  Goose,  Boar's 
Head,  Etc. 


Take  half  an  ounce  each  of  the  following— all 
ground  and  sifted : 


Thyme. 

Marjoram. 

Mace. 

Cloves. 

Nutmegs. 

Bay  leaves — and  a  quarter  ounce  of 

Rosemary — and  one  ounce  of 

White  pepper — and  mix  with 

4  pounds  of  fine  salt. 

The  diflference  of  the  two  mixtures  is  in  the  sage 
and  rosemary.  The  latter  is  very  aromatic  with  a 
taste  like  a  mixtr.re  of  sage  and  pine  leaves  It 
seems  to  have  been  a  great  favorite  and  had  many 
uses  in  olden  times.  "Nay,  the  boar  hath  rosemaries 
and  bay." 

**Then  the  ale,  and  the  cider  with  rosemary  in  the 
bowl  were  incomparable  potations." 

— Buhoer, 
"Weave  me  a  garland  of  holly, 
Rosemary,  laurel  and  bays ; 
Gravity's  nothing  but  folly 
Till  after  the  Christmas  days." 

^Old  Song. 


701.  Galantine  of  Goose  or  Duck. 


For  the  filling  of  one  large  goose  take : 

2  ducks  or  fowls  boiled  tender. 
12  ounces  of  white  bread  crumbs. 

1  small  onion. 

4  hard  boiled  eggs. 

3  raw  eggs. 

^  cupful  of  melted  goose  fat. 
1  cupful  of  meat  jelly  or  aspic. 

4  or  5  teaspoonfuls  of  the  aromatic  salt,  or,  pep- 
per,  salt  and  sage. 

Strip  the  meat  from  the  ducks  or  chickens  when 
co:d — there  should  be  1 J  p^^unds  of  it — cut  it  in  very 
small  dice  as  if  for  salad,  likewise  the  boiled  eggs 
and  onion  and  bread  crumbs.  Mix  alf,  moisten 
with  the  raw  eggs  and  g  ose  fat  or  butter.  Fill  the 
boned  goose,  or  two  or  three  ducks  with  the  force- 
meat, strew  the  jelly  over,  and  proceed  as  for  turkey 
galantines.  The  jelly  remains  in  the  galantines 
and  sets  richly  amongst  the  forcemeat. 


The  above  is  quite  an  ornamental  mixture,  sliced 
cold,  and  savory.    Pork   sausage   "^ith  some  bread 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


211 


crumbs,   ftrips  of  pork  and  red  tangue  mascs  aa- 
other  good  filling. 


It  takes  from  2  to  3  hours  time  to  bone  and  pre- 
pare a  gilantine  for  the  boiler,  (hat  is  including  the 
forcemeat  or  godiveau  it  is  stuffed  with,  but  it  takes 
but  li;tle  more  time  to  prepare  two  or  three  than  one 
when  the  operations  are  once  under  way. 


"Soon  af  er  our  walk  over  the  farm,  we  sat  down 
to  a  table,  which  was  abundantly  supplied.  There 
was  a  euperb  joint  of  corned  beef,  a  stewed  goose, 
and  a  magjificeut  haunch  of  mutton,  with  vegeta- 
bles of  all  kinds,  and  at  each  end  of  the  table  two 
huge  jugs  of  excellent  cider,  of  which  I  never  tired 
drinking." 

— llie  Gar^trcnomcr  in  Connecticut, 


It  is  nothing,  or  next  to  nothing,  to  make  a  salade 
a  la  Russe  or  Muscovite  or  to  put  up  a  galantine  de 
perdreaux  a  la  royale.  Suppose  not  many  can,  not 
many  want  them  and  it  comes  out  even.  But  there 
are  some  things  that  all  hotel  and  eating-house 
keepers  must  do  or  have  done  right  that  are  quite 
difficult — gelting  the  management  of  that  heaviest 
item,  the  butcher  meats,  down  to  a  fine  point,  for 
instance.  The  trying  time  of  the  man  of  the  "back 
part  of  the  house"  does  not  come  of  the  fine  dishes, 
the  uncommon  things,  the  fresh  delicacies  which 
money  will  procure  in  the  markets ;  the  grand 
difficulty  which  so  few  can  steadily  face  and  over- 
come is  made  up  of  a  lot  of  small  ones  too  ridiculous 
almost  to  specify — the  difficulty  of  getting  the  coffee 
made  always  alike  and  sent  in  always  hot  and  yet 
not  spoiled  by  boiling ;  of  making  somebody  attend 
to  their  du'y  of  keeping  warm  cups  and  pla  es ;  of 
getting  cooks  to  make  delicate  fried  mush  and  con- 
scientious oatmeal  porridge  and  clean-looking  fresh 
fried  potatoes. 

.  We  try  to  keep  to  a  rule  in  these  writings  of  not  un- 
derrating or  passing  by  as  useless  anything  that  we 
have  not  tried,  sifted,  proved,  weighed  and 
measured  and  arrived  at  the  worth  of,  and  in  that 
way  earn  the  right  to  repeat  again  and  again,  there 
are  needed  fifty  thousand  cooks  (or  call  them  what 
you  will)  who  will  take  interest  enough  to  make  the 
common  unconsidered  trifles  well,  for  every  one 
that  is  wanted  to  mQ,\Q pieces  monties  and  monstrosi- 
ties in  wax  and  tallow. 

The  sort  of  cooks  to  cultivate,  who  are  always 
wanted  and  for  whom  a  little  more  wages  than  the 
ordinary  is  no  objection  with  hotel  keepers  are  those 
who  will  fry  egg'?  clean,  white  and  appetizing,  not 
black  and  smoked  at  the  edges  ;  who  can  make 
batter-cakes  as  good  without  eggs  as  the  common 
run  can  with  half  a  dollar' s  worth  mixed  in  ;  who 
can  make  common  rolls  so  good  they  can  not  be 
surpassed  and  take  pride  enough  to  rise  half  an 
hour  earlier  to  do  so  ,•  cooks  who  will  bake  pies  well 


done  on  the  bottom.  And  what  profit  is  it  to  the 
hotel-keeper  to  have  in  the  larder  &jambon  a  la 
gelee  a  la  Francaise,  which  the  guests  m^y  or  may 
not  recognize  and  may  or  may  not  be  afraid  to  call 
for,  if  the  corned  beef  is  put  on  to  cook  only  an 
hour  or  two  before  dishing-up  time,  is  tough  and 
rejected  for  dinner,  sliced,  rejected  and  thrown 
away  after  supper  ? 

Thf  se  minor  obstacles  to  a  perfect  table  are  nevei' 
quite  overcome,  but  when  I  hear  a  hotel  uncom  - 
moj.ly  well  spoken  of  in  this  respect  I  am  certain 
that  a  large  measure  of  success  has  been  attained, 
and  I  wonder  then  if  there  is  not  some  one  in  the 
back  part  of  that  house  looking  thin-faced  and 
tired  ? 

703.       Corned  Beef  Brine. 


6  gallons  of  water  (about  3  pailfuls.) 

6  or  8  ounces  of  saltpetre — the  large  crystals  kind. 

1  pint  of  molasses  or  sugar. 
10  pounds  of  salt. 

Set  the  water  on  the  range  in  a  boiler  with  the 
saltpetre  in  it  to  dissolve  first,  because  sometimes 
when  the  brine  is  so  strong  with  salt  as  to  be  what 
is  called  a  saturated  solution  the  saltpetre  cannot 
melt  in  it  but  remains  inoperative  at  the  bottom. 
Then  put  in  the  molasses  and  the  salt,  let  come  to  a 
boil  and  skim  it.     Pour  into  a  clean  ten-gallon  keg. 

Two  kegs  of  such  brine  are  necessary  to  have  for 
beef  alone.  It  will  keep  good  one  or  two  months 
according  to  weather,  but  depending  on  how  it  is 
used.  One  is  for  dropping  the  course  pieces  of  beef 
in  from  day  to  day  as  they  are  culled  from  the 
roasts  and  loins,  the  other  is  to  change  them  over  to 
when  half  corned  and  to  use  out  of.  But  tongues 
and  pork  if  pickled  in  the  same  kegs  with  the  beef 
will  spoil  the  brine  very  quickly.  There  ought  to 
be  other  and  smaller  vessels  of  brine  to  receive 
them. 

703.  

Corned  beef  is  an  American  "stand-by,"  a  per-- 
manent  favorite,  and  too  much  care  can  not  be  taken 
to  have  it  good.  People  tire  of  fish,  of  poultry, 
game  and  ham,  but  not  of  roast  beef  nor  corned 
beef,  but  whenever  the  hotel  has  to  sell  off  its 
corned  beef  to  get  rid  of  it  at  a  nominal  price  and 
buy  the  canned  corned  beef  of  the  packing  hous€8 
because  it  is  better  it  is  tolerably  certain  there  is  a 
screw  loose,  and  somebody  is  remiss  in  their  duty  ot 
lacking  in  skill  and  attention. 

The  packing  house  corned  beef  is  good  because  it 
is  made  with  good  brine  like  that  of  the  foregoing 
receipt,  and  because  it  is  cooked  almost  to  the  soft- 
ness of  jelly.  It  is  too  soft  however  to  be  used  hot. 
It  generally  has  just  the  right  pink  color,  neither  too 
red  like  raw  meat  nor  too  colorless  like  boiled  fresh 
beef,  to  make  it  look  attractive  on  the  table ;  this 
exact  point  can  always  be  maintained  by  forethought 


812 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


and  regard  to  the  temperature  of  the  brine.  Six 
ouQces  of  saltpetre  will  mike  the  beef  as  red  if  kept 
at  summer  heat  as  eight  ouuces  or  more  in  cold 
weather.  It  takes  about  a  week  to  corn  beef  suf- 
ficiently to  begin  using  it. 

T94.  

l*reparing  the  Beef  for  Ooming. 


Nothing  that  is  done  for  meat  gives  a  better  re- 
tarn  for  the  time  expended  than  attention  to  this 
point. 

When  you  have  sawn  oflF  the  brisket  ends  of  the 
rib  roasts  and  taken  off  the  skirt  or  flank  from  the 
long  loins  take  out  the  bones — you  need  them  in  the 
stock- boiler — and  roll  up  the  boneless  meat  to  about 
the  size  of  a  wrist  in  diameter  and  of  any  convenient 
lengths,  and  bind  these  rolls  tightly  with  cotton 
twine.  They  are  generally  finely  streaked  with 
lean  and  fat  and  when  corned  right  color  will  slice 
cold  into  the  very  handsomest  dishes  of  cold  meat 
that  can  be  set  on  a  table,  and  are  equally  good  in 
their  way  for  hot  corned  beef  on  cabbage. 

If  time  allows  it  is  best  to  shave  the  thick  outer 
skin  from  such  pieces  of  beef  before  rolling.  Some 
lean  and  tough  pieces  such  as  come  from  the  outside 
cut  of  the  round,  from  the  shoulder  and  neck  can 
be  cut  in  thick  steaks,  quite  large,  thin  steaks  of 
fat  from  some  other  pirt  laid  on  and  both  roiled  up 
together,  these  as  well  as  fragmentary  pieces  are 
best  used  in  the  form  of  pressed  corned  beef.  Throw 
the  pieces  when  prepared  into  the  brine,  place  a 
barrel  head  or  board  on  top  and  a  large  stone  to 
keep  the  beef  under.  Cover  the  keg  with  a  cloth  to 
keep  flies  out  and  keep  in  a  cold  place. 

Hundreds  and  thousands  of  pounds  of  meat  are 
spoiled  in  hotels  and  thrown  away  for  want  of  de- 
cision in  those  who  have  to  manage  it,  or,  perhaps, 
for  want  of  definite  knowledge  of  what  use  each 
particular  portion  mu-t  be  put  to  sooner  or  later. 
The  choicest  close-trimmed  joints  of  meat  that  can 
be  purchased  have  some  portion  that  is  tough  and 
hardly  eatable  with  the  ordinary  five-minutes 
cooking,  but  even  the  worst  can  be  made  tender  if 
cooked  long  enough  in  some  suitable  way — hence 
the  use  of  more  ways  than  one  in  cookery,  braising, 
stewing,  potting,  smothering,  etc. 

It  is  the  expedient  of  ignorance  and  inefficiency 
to  get  the  rough  and  tough  off  their  hands  by  send- 
ing it  to  table  as  roast  or  steak,  (we  are  speaking  of 
good  hotel  tables,  of  course),  it  is  gone,  to  be  sure, 
but  will  mostly  be  wasted  just  the  same  and  some- 
body dissatisfied  will  eat  something  else.  It  is 
useless  to  hang  a  poor  piece  of  beef  on  a  hook  ''for 
the  present"  hoping  in  some  indistinct  way  that 
something  will  turn  up  so  that  you  will  want  just 
such  a  piece  of  meat  as  that.  The  meat  you  hesitate 
about  in  warm  weather  is  lost.  It  is  the  cook's 
business  to  know  exactly  what  use  every  ounce  can 
be  put  to. 


The  minute  the  meat  comes  from  the  butcher's,  if 
possible,  the  portions  that  must  be  either  salted  or 
thrown  away  sooner  or  later  should  be  taken  off  and 
put  in  the  brine  barrel,  and  if  that  can  be  kept  in 
the  ice  house  there  need  not  be  a  pound  lost  even  in 
the  hottest  season 


T95.     Boiling  Corned  Beef. 


Make  it  a  rule  of  the  day's  work,  which  very 
soon  will  become  a  habit,  to  set  on  the  salt  meat 
boiler  the  first  thing  in  the  morning — say,  at  6 
o'clock — and  put  in  the  corned  beef  at  once.  Fresh 
meats  with  all  their  juices  in  them  should  be 
dropped  into  boiling  water,  which  immediately 
cooking  the  outside  prevents  them  from  ooxiog  out 
into  the  water,  but  it  is  different  with  salt  meats  ; 
they  have  had  their  moisture  withdrawn  by  the  brine 
and  are  c  mparaively  dry  and  should  be  dropped 
into  cold  water  in  the  boiler.  It  is  supposed  the 
salt  in  them  draws  in  the  water  till  it  reaches  cook- 
ing heat  and  closes  the  outside.  Corned  beef  treat- 
ed so  cuts  moist  and  full  of  juices. 

Make  it  a  rule  that  corned  beef  shall  boil  5  hours. 
Any  late  pieces  or  top  pieces  not  thoroughly  c  ^oked 
should  be  allowed  to  continue  boiling  during  din- 
ner, for  corned  beef  recof^ked  next  day  to  make  it 
tenderer  is  never  worth  much — looks  washed  out 
and  is  flavorless. 


796.  •       

Of  all  the  beef  bought  for  hotel  tables  only  a 
third  of  the  original  weight  arrives  at  the  point  of 
readiaess  to  place  on  the  guest's  plate ;  only  a 
fourth  of  the  oiiginal  weight  actually  reaches  the 
table;  probably  only  half  of  that,  or  one  eighth  of  the 
raw  weight  is  actually  eaten ;  so  that  for  one  hun- 
dred pounds  of  beef  that  really  becomes  sustenance 
to  the  hotel  boarder  eight  hundred  pounds  of  raw 
beef  must  be  purchased. 

One-third  of  the  raw  weight  is  bone ;  one-third 
more  is  fat,  skin,  gristle,  suet,  discolorations,  blood 
stains,  roughness  and  some  scraps  wasted  in  cutting; 
the  remaining  one-third  is  clear  meat  in  steaks  and 
trimmed  roasts. 

This  one-third  of  clear  meat  loses  at  least  a 
quarter  of  its  weight  in  cooking,  and  if  fat  will  lose 
a  third,  or  even  half.  Of  roast  beef  on  the  carving 
stand,  after  all  these  preceding  losses,  there  is  lost 
probably  a  fourth  of  the  weight  it  has  on  leaving 
the  fire.  This  weight  is  lost  through  bad  carving, 
neglecting  to  clean  the  bones,  gouging  out  choicer 
cuts  for  pet  people  and  wasting  much  more,  and 
through  the  floW  of  gravy  and  drying  out  by  the 
heat,  and  finally  by  what  is  left  over  of  the  roasts 
not  large  enough  or  good  enough  to  be  used  again. 
A  pair  of  chickens  that  weigh  4^  pounds  in  market 
will  yield  only  IJ  pounds  of  nett  meat  after  cooking. 
A  14  pound  turkey  raw,  with  enough  stuffing,  pork, 
eggs,  etc.,  to  make  up  a  total  of  20  pounda   original 


THE  AMEBICA^  COOK. 


218 


weight  will  only  turn  out  a  10  pound  galantine  after 
cooking. 

If  the  beef  costs  only  8  cents  per  pound  by  the 
entire  carcass,  that  which  the  hotel-keepers  buy  and 
the  waiters  carry  in  to  the  guests  on  the  individual 
dishes  will  have  cost  in  the  neighborhood  of  75  cents 
per  pound,  and  what  is  actually  eaten  by  the  guest 
will  have  cost  somebody  about  a  dollar  a  pound, 
for  some  is  left  on  the  dishes  entire  and  much  more 
pulled  about  on  the  plates,  culled  over,  hacked  and 
left.  It  is  true  there  is  one  oflFset  to  all  this — how- 
ever much  more  a  hungry  laboring  man  with  only 
one  dish  might  eat,  the  amount  of  any  one  kind  of 
meat  consumed  by  hotel  boarders  does  not  in  an 
average  way  exceed  two  ounces  for  each  person. 
But  the  proportion  of  waste  is  only  the  more  enor- 
mous for  that  fact. 


It  would  require  a  volume  to  discuss  the  matters 
just  specified  in  all  their  bearings,  but  whosever 
business  it  may  be  it  is  not  ours;  we  have  enough 
to  do  with  our  cooking.  It  is  amon^the  purposes 
and  expedients  of  high  intelligent  cookery  to  lessen 
some  of  the  great  washes  of  the  raw  material  and 
lead  people  away  from  clamoring  for  the  very  con- 
densed essence  of  all  that  is  dear  and  train  their 
taste  to  the  appreciation  of  made  dishes  that  are 
more  the  products  of  skill  than  of  cost,  to  the  end 
that  the  price  of  living  may  be  cheapened,  and  two 
persons  may  live  well  where  one  would  starve  at 
the  present  rate  of  reckless  prodigality.  It  is  ac- 
cepted as  a  truth,  while  nobody  understands,  that 
French  cookery  is  essentially  economical,  and  yet 
those  who  think  they  try  it  never  find  it  so,  but 
quite  the  contrary.  It  is  those  who  are  supposed 
to  practice  it  that  are  the  wasters. 

The  art  and  science  is  as  high  and  worthy  as  any 
other,  but  the  supposed  followers  are  degenerate 
and  unworthy. 

Good  cookery — call  it  French  or  what  you  will — 
consists,  for  example,  in  taking  the  bones  that 
constitute  one-third  of  the  weight  of  the  beef  as  the 
hotel  man  buys  it,  and  extracting  all  they  will 
yield  by  boiling  to  make  rich  soups,  and  not  only 
soups  but  stock  to  use  in  place  of  water  to  make  a 
hundred  common  articles  savory  and  nutritious, 
and  in  cooking  the  so-called  rough  pieces  so  well 
that  they  will  be  in  greater  demand  than  even  the 
"choice  cuts"  of  beef. 


•yoi. 


Pressed  Corned  Beef. 


There  is  some  advantage  in  merely  pressing  the 
large  pieces  after  boiling,  as  it  makes  them  firmer 
to  slice,  and  some  never  go  any  farther.  The 
streaked  rolls  may  be  laid  side  by  side  and  pressed 
to  square  or  oval  form.  But  pressed  corned  beef  is 
generally  expected  to  be  something  different  from 
that. 


After  boiling  the  beef  5  hours  take  it  from  th« 
liquor,  cut  in  pieces  about  as  large  as  eggs  and  sim- 
mer it  about  2  hours  more,  using  for  this  second 
boiling  some  fresh  soup  stock  or  chicken  broth,  just 
enough  to  fairly  cover  it,  and  rich  enough  to  bejel^,» 
when  cold.     Season  with  a  little  pepper. 

Turn  it  out  into  the  pan,  tin  pail  or  mould  it  is  te 
be  pressed  in,  the  liquor  with  it,  push  a  strainer 
down  into  it  and  take  oflf  the  fat  that  rises  in  the 
strainer.  Place  a  plate  or  lid  and  a  weight  on  t6> 
and  set  in  a  cold  place. 

It  is  not  best  to  drain  pressed  corned  beef  of  the 
jelly  completely.  In  making  the  finest  and  costliest 
pates  de  cailles,  or  of foies  gras  with  trufiles,  trouble 
is  taken  when  the  baking  is  about  finished  to  in- 
troduce aspic  jelly  through  an  aperture  left  in  the 
top  for  the  purpose  and  pressed  beef  need  not  be 
made  dryer  and  harder  because  it  is  a  cheaper  ar- 
ticle. Let  the  jelly  be  firm  enough  not  to  become 
soft  on  the  table. 

T98.  Pressed  Beef  in  Aspic  Jelly. 


1.  Cut  the  handsomest  streaked  rolls  of  cooked 
corned  beef  in  slices,  lay  them  on  large  platters, 
pour  over  enough  clear  melted  aspic  jelly  to  cover. 
When  cold  and  set  cut  out  the  slices  of  beef  and 
jelly  with  a  tin  cutter,  place  on  the  dish  they  are 
to  be  served  in  and  garnish  with  parsley,  pickles 
and  beets. 

2.  Cut  the  cooked  corned  beef  into  dice  quite 
small,  simmer^for  an.hour  or  two  more  in  broth  or 
sfock  strong  enough  to  become  jelly  when  cold. 
Then  dip  the  meat  into  bright  gem  pans  of  some  or- 
namental shape,  in  which  you  have  first  strewn 
some  leavea  of  parsley.  Set  away  to  get  cold, 
without  pressure.  When  set  firm  take  these  in- 
dividual pains  de  boBuf  from  the  moulds.  Put  at  the 
bottom  of  each  mould  a  slice  of  a  pickle  stamped  in 
star  shape  and  then  return  the  cakes  of  beef  to  their 
places.  Pour  jelly  in  the  thin  space  between  the 
meat  and  the  mould.  Dish  bottom  side  up  and 
decorate. 


•«Cut  and  come  again,"  it  seems,  has  always  been 
the  motto  of  the  English  and  Irish  hunting  squires 
when  setting  their  boiled  rounds  of  beef  on  the  table 
— a  free  lunch  for  everybody. 

TOO.  Cold  Boiled  Round  of  Beef. 


Corn  a  whole  round  of  beef  in  the  corned  beef 
brine,  letting  it  remain  from  10  to  14  days.  Wash 
it,  take  out  the  bone  from  the  center  Out  S'^me 
strips  of  unsmoked  fat  bacon  as  thick  as  a  little 
finger  and  lard  the  beef  with  them,  maVing  incisions 
with  a  carving  knife  and  drawing  in  the  strips  with 
a  looped  string  attached  to  a  long  skewer.      For  the 


214 


THE    AMERICAN  COOK. 


cavitj  in  the  middle  whence  the  bone  was  taken 
roll  up  a  th'n  slice  of  fat  inclosing  some  chopped 
and  seasoned  beef.  Roll  the  round  up  tightly  in  a 
cloth — such  as  a  clean  flour  sack — and  sew  it.  Boil 
about  7  hours. 

Pre»8  it  when  done,  without  removing  the  cloth  it 
is  wrapped  in,  into  good  shape,  either  between  two 
sections  of  a  sugar  trough,  two  chopping  bowls,  a 
dairymaid's  pail  or  an  old  oaken  bucket.  When 
cold  remove  the  cloth,  trim  and  place  on  a  large 
cfish. 


It  is  just^necessary  to  mention  that  the  larding 
with  frtt  bacon  is  not  essential,  but  is  only  an  im- 
provement for  the  tough  side  of  the  round,  and  to 
the  general  appearance ;  and  that  such  beef  rounds 
have  been  boiled  in  home-brewed  ale. 


800.  Cold  Spiced  Round  of  Beef. 


The  same  in  general  as  the  preceding  but  the  meat 
first  pickled  in  a  spiced  brine. 


801.        Pickle  for  Spiced  Beef. 

3  gallons  of  water, 
3  ounces  of  saltpetre. 

3  pounds  of  salt. 

8  ounces  of  brown  sugar. 

4  ounces  of  bruised  black  pepper  corns, 

4  ounces  of  mixed  spices  — allspice,  cloves  and 
mace. 

8  bay  leaves. 

Tie  the  spices,  pepper  an^  bay  leaves  loosely  in  a 
cotton  cloth  and  throw  them  into  the  ten-gallon  keg. 
Make  the  brine  as  directed  for  corned  beef  and  pour 
it  hot  upon  the  spices. 

The  addition  of  half  a  head  of  girlie,  or  an  ounce 
of  coriander  seeds,  or  one  or  two  onions,  or 
aromatic  garden  herbs  can  be  made  to  the  spiced 
pickle  above  at  option.  Hotel  cooking  is  the  cos- 
mopolitan occupation  and  what  may  be  offensive  to 
one  set  of  people  often  changes  to  the  one  thing 
most  essential  for  another.  The  coriander  seed  ad- 
dition is,  however,  generally  acceptable. 


Spiced  sheep's  tongues,  calves'  and  pigs*  feet  and 
other  c  fid  meats  can  be  pickled  as  well  as  beef  in 
the  spiced  brine — a  method  much  surer,  safer  and 
better  for  the  U9ual  haste  of  hotel  work  than  dry 
salting  or  pickling,  which  requires  daily  attention, 
turning  and  rubbing — and  doesn't  get  it? 

801a.    Cold  Spiced  Beef  Rolls. 


Lay  the  solid  lean  pieces  of  the  round  of  beef 
open  in  steaks,  and  on  top  of  them  lay  thin  sheets 
of  fat  salt  pork.  Roll  up,  tie,  and  keep  in  the  spiced 
pickle  two  weeks. 


When  to  be  cooked  open  the  rolls,  wash  in  cold 
water,  spread  over  with  parsley  leaves  plentifully, 
roll  up  again  and  tie.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan 
and  half  fill  with  good  soup  stocK.  Cover  to  keep 
the  steam  in  either  with  buttered  paper  and  the  lid 
or  with  a  lid  of  flour-and-water  paste  and  keep  the 
rolls  stewiog  about  5  hours.  Cool  in  the  same 
liquor  ;  press  like  corned  beef;  slice  cold. 


By  way  of  excuse  for  frequent  quotations  from 
Sir  Edward  Bulwer  Ly^tou's  first  novel,  Pelham,  we 
will  laisser  nos  moutons  long  enough  to  remark  that 
the  Lord  Guloseton  of  that  novel  is  none  other  than 
Brillat-Savarin,  author  ^Gmtronomy  and  Gastron- 
omers^ and  almost  the  only  writer  of  note  on  the 
subject,  as  the  young  and  enthusiastic  author 
imagined  him  after  reading  his  book  in  the  French. 
In  his  last  novel,  the  Parisians,  Lord  Lytton  re- 
turned to  his  early  impressions  and  introduced  a 
character  named  Savarin 

"And  thou  most  beautiful  of  all,  thou  evening 
star  of  entremets — thou  that  delightest  in  truffles  and 
gloriest  in  the  dark  cloud  of  sauces  —  exquisite /o«e- 
gras  I — Have  I  forgotten  thee  ?  What  though  the 
goose,  of  which  thou  art  a  part,  has,  indeed,  been 
roasted  by  a  slow  fire,  in  order  to  increase  thy  di- 
vine proportions — yet  has  not  our  Almanach — the 
Almanach  des  Gourmands — truly  declared  that  the 
goose  rejoiced  amid  all  her  tortures — because  of  the 
glory  that  awaited  her  ?  0,  exalted  among  birds — 
apothe  sied  goose,  did  not  thy  heart  exult  even 
when  thy  liver  parched  and  swelled  within  thee,  from 
that  most  agonizing  death  ;  and  didst  thou  not,  like 
the  Indian  at  the  stake,  triumph  in  the  very  tor- 
ments which  alone  could  render  thee  illustrious  V* 

— Pelham. 

That  settles  it.  We  don't  want  any  preternatur- 
ally  enlarged  fat  livers  of  geese  if  they  have  to  be 
obtained  in  that  way. 


In  the  countries  where  truffles  grow  and  these  ab- 
normal fat  livers  are  produced  the  pates  or  raised 
pies  are  made  with  about  three  livers  partly  split 
like  pouches,  and  truffles  cut  in  pieces  stuffed  into 
the  cavities.  The  crust  is  of  hot-water  paste  raised 
in  a  mould.  The  inside  of  the  raised  crust  is  first 
lined  with  a  forcemeat  m«ide  of  chicken  meat,  bread 
crumbs,  fat  pork  and  herb  seasonings,  pounded  and 
forced  through  a  seive.  The  livers  are  laid  in, 
truffles  strewn  in  fragments  over  them,  fat  pork  and 
forcemeat  over  that  and  a  top  crust  over  all.  The 
pie  is  baked  over  two  hours,  enveloped  in  buttered 
paper.  When  nearly  done  it  is  withdrawn  from  the 
oven  and  some  cognac  brandy  poured  in.  It  is  re- 
turned to  the  oven,  and  when  done  is  filled  up  with 
aspic  jelly  mixed  with  madeira  wine.  The  pie  is 
elaborately  ornamented  with  patterns  in  paste,  and 
the  dish  with  jelly. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


215 


Of  the  truffles  used  it  is  said :  If  a  vendor  with  a 
basketful  passes  through  the  house  in  the  morning 
a  stranger  coming  in  in  the  afternoon,  hours  after- 
wards, is  instantly  made  aware  of  it  by  the  perfume 
left  behind. 


"A  huge  Sirvksbourg  pats  de  foie-ffras  in  the  shape 
of  a  bastion.  *  *         Ajar  of  truffled /o2e- 


ffras. 


Soon  the  interior  of  each  car- 


riage discloses  its  treasures  of  pies,  its  marvels  of 
paUde-foie-gras,  its  dainties  of  all  possible  kinds. 
*  *  *  I  have  seen  them  '  display  on  the 
turf  the  turkey  in  clear  jelly,  the  household  pie,  the 
salad  all  ready  for  mixing." 

— A  Hunting  Party, — Gastronomic. 
**I  ask  you  to  meet  a  sautS  de  foie  gras,  and  a 
haunch  of  venison." 

— Pelham, 


803.  Fat  Liver  Cheese  in  Jelly. 

PAIN  DE  FOIES  DE  POULAEDES. 

1^  pounds  of  chicken  livers. 

1  pound  of  calf  8  liver. 

The  meat  of  one  chicken,  previously  cooked. 
IJ  pounds  of  dry  fat  salt  pork. 

4  ounces  of  bread  steeped  and  squeezed  dry. 

1  corned  tongue  cooked. 

8  ounces  of  the  brisket  fat  of  corned  beef. 

2  cans  of  truffles,  or,  1  pound  fresh  mushrooms. 
6  raw  yolks  of  eggs. 

J  pint  of  madeira  or  sherry. 

Spiced  salt  for  seasoning. 

Examine  the  livers  for  gall  stains,  which  make 
vhem  bitter.  Steep  them  all  night  in  cold  water. 
Melt  the  fat  pork  in  a  large  saucepan,  add  all  the 
livers  cut  small  and  the  chicken  meat  likewise. 
Cook  a  short  time,  only  till  the  livers  seem  to  be 
cooked  through  without  letting  them  become  hard. 
If  you  have  no  spiced  salt  add  a  bayleaf,  pepper, 
thyme  and  a  pinch  of  spices  in  the  saucepan  to  cook 
with  the  livers.  Pound  to  a  paste.  Mix  the  bread 
panada  and  raw  yolks  together  and  the  wine  with 
them,  add  this  mixture  to  the  liver  paste  and  press 
it  all  through  a  seive.  Cut  the  brisket  fat  (already 
well  cooked  and  cold)  into  dice  shapes,  also  the  red 
tongue  and  the  truffles  or  mushrooms,  and  mix  them 
in  the  paste. 

Bake  the  mixture  in  a  mould  for  about  2  hours, 
but  before  putting  it  in  the  mould  cover  the  bottom 
with  thin  slices  of  fit  pork  and  hy  some  more  and 
one  bayleaf  over  the  top  of  the  liver  cake.  Set  the 
mould  in  a  pan  of  water  and  bake  it  that  way. 

When  done  let  it  get  quite  cold  in  the  mould. 
Dip  in  hot  water  to  take  it  out.  Remove  all  the  fat, 
smooth  it  over  with  a  hot  knife.  Cover  with  jelly  or 
other\;ise  ornament  as  for  galantines  and  pressed 
beef. 

In  place  of  the  brisket  fat  above  specified  French 
cooks  use  calf  s  udder  salted  and  boiled. 


Fre?h  gathered  large  mushrooms,  chocolate  brown 
on  the  under  side,    yield  a  rich  gravy  and  a   higher 
flivor   than   the    button    mushrooms,  and  make  a 
much  better  substitute  for  truffles. 
803a.  


Chicken  Liver  Paste  or  Liver  Cheese. 


1^  pounds  of  poultry  livers. 

12  ounces  of  fat  ham  or  salt  pork. 

4  ounces  of  lean  cooked  ham. 

1  email  cup  of  sherry. 

1  bayleaf,  pepper,  little  spice  and  salt. 


12  ounces  of  bread  panada  (French  rolls  soaked  in 
milk  and  then  squeezed  dry  in  a  cloth.) 

4  raw  eggs. 

8  hard  boiled  yolks. 

1  cooked  corned  tongue. 

Some  chopped  mushrooms. 

Aspic  jelly  to  garnish  with. 

Steep  the  poultry  livers — any  kind — in  cold  water 
to  whiten  them.  Set  all  the  ingredients  of  the  first 
part  to  simmer  in  a  saucepan  with  the  lid  on  at  the 
back  part  of  the  range,  and  let  remain  till  a  con- 
venient time,  or  two  or  three  hours.  Then  mash  to 
a  paste.  Thejivers,  etc.,  should  be  nearly  dry  in 
the  saucepan  but  not  at  all  fried  or  browned. 

Mix  the  raw  eggs  with  the  panada  and  these  with 
the  pounded  liver.  Press  through  a  seive.  Cut  up 
the  red  tongue,  the  hard  boiled  yolks  and  mush- 
ro<^m8  if  you  have  them  and  mix  these  in  the  paste. 
Bake  about  an  hour  with  thin  slices  of  fat  pork  first 
laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  or  mould,  and  aiso  on 
top  of  the  liver  cake  and  a  buttered  paper  over  that, 
and  the  mould  set  in  a  shallow  pan  of  water  in  the 
oven. 

The  paste  as  made  above  can  be  taken  from  the 
pan  or  mould,  freed  from  fat  and  decorated  like 
boned  fowls. 

For  individual  dishes  form  it  in  egg  shapes  in 
this  way: 

Chop  some  aspic  jelly  and  have  it  ready.  Make 
two  tablespoons  hot  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  scoop 
out  spoonfuls  of  the  liver  paste,  using  the  spoons 
alternately.  While  the  egg  shapes  are  still  moist 
on  the  outside  sprinkle  them  over  with  the  jelly,  or 
roll  them  in  it. 

**He  who  can  afford  every  day  a  dinner  sufficient 

for  a  hundred  persons,  is  often  satisfied  by  eating 

the  thigh  of  a  chicken." 

— Savarin. 

"I  have  always  heard  how  cheap  poultry  is  in 

Italy.    I  should  think  a  fowl  is  worth  about  twelve 

sous  at  Rome." 

— Monte  Cliristo, 

"Hence  the  necessity  for  the  many  devices  of  art 
to  reanimate  that  ghost  of  an  appetite  by  dishes 
which  maintain  it  without  injury  and  caress  without 
stifling  it." 

—SaiHsritta 


216 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


*'We  have  a  fixed  price  for  all  our  provisions.  It 
signifies  nothing  whether  you  eat  much  or  little — 
whether  you  have  ten  dishes  or  one — it  is  always 
the  same  price." 

— Monte  Chrisio. 

•'Only  ignorance  can  excuse  those  who  serve  up 
the  quail  otherwise  than  roasted  or  en  papillotes,  be- 
cause its  flavor  is  so  easily  lost  that  if  the  animal  is 
plunged  in  any  liquid  it  evaporates  and  disap- 
pears." 

— Savarin 

8€SSb.     Galantines  of  Quails. 


First  prepare  the  godiveau  or  forcemeat  to  fill  out 
the  thin  parts  of  the  quails : 

12  ounces  of  pork  tenderloins. 

12  ounces  of  cooked  chicken  meat. 

20  ounces  of  fresh  fat  pork. 

Pound  them  smooth,  the  chicken  first,  the  tender- 
loin added  and  then  the  fat.  Season  with  spiced 
salt  and  rub  the  paste  through  a  seive. 

Then  prepare  these  for  filling,  all  cut  in  small 
dice: 

1  cooked  red  corned  tongue. 

1  pound  of  chicken  livers — parboiled. 
12  ounces  of  cooked  fat  bacon. 
12  ounces  of  cooked  ham. 

2,  3,  or  4  cans  of  truflaes— or,  some  mushrooms. 

Salt,  spices,  madeira  wine  or  sherry. 

Bacon  slices  to  wrap  the  birds  in. 

Some  meat  glaze. 

Flour-and-water  paste. 

When  you  have  cut  the  tongue,  livers,  bacon  fat, 
ham  and  truffles  in  small  dice  season  them  either 
with  spiced  salt  or  with  pepper  and  spices  equiva- 
lent, and  then  stir  in  half  a  cup  of  wine. 

Bone  two  dozen  quails,  wipe  them  dry  and  clean ; 
pare  some  meat  from  the  breasts  and  lay  it  over  the 
thin  places ;  spread  over  them  a  little  of  the  force- 
meat paste,  over  that  a  layer  of  the  dice -cut  mix- 
ture, and  then  fold  up  the  quails  to  their  original 
shape.  Instead  of  sewing  roll  e^ch  bird  in  a  thin 
slice  of  unsmoked  bacon  or  dry  salt  pork.  These 
are  now  to  be  coobed  separately  and  this  is  best 
done  in  deep  muffin  pans  or  gem  pans  of  granite- 
ware — either  round  or  oval  will  do  but  they  must 
be  large  enough  to  hold  gravy  above  the  quails,  and 
in  nests  of  ten  or  twelve  fastened  together  the 
usual  way.  Press  the  galantines  into  the  pans, 
pour  over  a  little  melted  fresh  butter  mixed  with 
meat  glaze  (natural  meat  gravy  simmered  down 
thick),  cover  each  one  with  a  crust  of  flour-and- 
water  paste,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  an  hour, 
the  gem  pans  or  moulds  set  In  a  baking  p  in  con- 
taining boiling  water. — They  must  not  brown  nor 
fry. 

When  done  take  off  the  paste  covers  and  let  the 
quails  cool  a  little,  then  press   them  by  setting  one 


nest  of  pans  or  moulds  on  top  of  the  other  and 
weights  on  top  of  all.  When  quite  cold  take  the 
galantines  from  the  moulds,  remove  the  covering  of 
bacon,  trim  them  and  use  in  the  ways  of  the  larger 
galantines,  either  to  slice  in  jelly,  built  in  a  pyramid 
and  decorated,  or  to  surround  a  larger  galantine. 

The  greatest  care  is  required  in  seasoning  the 
above  lest  they  come  out  too  salt,  the  ham,  tongue 
and  bacon  all  being  likely  to  contribute  some.  The 
butter  used  should  be  poured  off  clear,  and  fresh 
pork  may  be  used  for  outside  wrapping  instead  of 
salt,  rather  than  risk  anything. 


Somewhere,  I  think,  the  Count  of  Monte  Christo 
has  a  splendid  cold  supper  set  in  a  wonderful  cave, 
and  there  is  a  large  fawl,  perhaps  it  was  a  turkey, 
surrounded  by  Corsican  blackbirds  Liisely  enough 
the  heads  of  the  blackbirds  were  set  on  again  after 
the  tiny  galantines  were  cooked  and  ornamented. 
But  it  is  not  likely  that  the  cook  made  a  separate 
lot  of  fillings  for  the  birds  when  he  had  just  stuffed 
the  turkey  with  another  kind.  He  might  have  bad 
to  do  80  had  he  been  cooking  for  a  houseful  of 
boarders  without  appetiies,  to  whom  nothing  tastes 
good,  but  he  had  to  serve  only  transients,  just  ar- 
riving and  mostly  delighted  with  all  they  meet  with 
at  the  hotel  table.  The  cook  in  that  case  used  for 
the  large  galantine  the  same  kind  of  forcemeat  as 
that  in  our  boned  turkeys  and  chickens  some  dis- 
tance back,  which  is  very  good  and  not  too  arti- 
ficially flavored,  and  he  took  some  of  the  same  and 
added  truffles  cut  small  to  it  for  the  galantines  of 
birds.  When  boning  quails  for  a  supper  where 
there  is  no  bill  of  fare  to  turn  attention  to  them  it  is 
best  to  leave  the  legs  on — boned  half  way  and  stuffed 
—to  show  what  they  are. 


80Sc.Boned  Pig's  Head  in  Jelly. 


The  head  should  be  corned  in  the  same  kind  of, 
pickle  as  corned  beef,  but  only  lie  in  it  2  or  3  days. 

Bone  the  head  before  salting.  It  should  be  the 
head  of  a  butcher's  porker,  not  a  fat  bacon  hog. 
Saw  it  in  halves  and  cut  the  meat  close  to  the  bone. 
It  is  handier  to  slice  made  up  in  two  halves  than 
one  whole  head.     You  want  besides : 

4  pounds  of  sausage  meat  from  the  butcher's. 

2  corned  red  tongues,  or  4  if  pigs'  tongues. 

2  pounds  of  fat  salt  pork. 

Take  the  two  halves  of  the  head  from  the  brine, 
wash  in  cold  water,  trim  off  any  discolored  portious, 
take  off  the  ears — they  can  be  thrown  in  the  boiler 
separate — then  laying  the  head  skin  downwards 
slice  off  some  of  the  meat  from  the  thick  parts  and 
lay  over  the  thin.  Spread  some  sausage  meat  over  ; 
cut  the  tongues  and  fat  pork  in  strips  and  lay  them 
on  the  sausage  crosswise  of  the  head.  Cover  the 
strips  with  the  rest  of  the  sausage  meat. 

Roll  up  the  two  halves  tightly,  beginning  with 
the  snout,  which  is  to  be  in  the  middle  of  the  roll, 
and  the  rolls  to  be  of  even  thickness   from  one  end 


THE    AMERICAN  COOK. 


217 


to  the  other  and  evenly  mixed,  the  lean  with  the  fat, 
80  as  to  slice  all  alike  and  no  waste.  Roll  up  in 
clean  white  pudding  cloths,  sew  or  tie  securely. 
Boil  from  4  to  6  hours  in  a  boiler  that  will  hold  six 
gallons  of  water,  and  put  in  with  the  head  some 
soup  vegetables  and  sage,  and  pepper  and  salt. 

When  done  press  them  in  shape  like  any  other 
galantine  ;  there  is  no  better  shape  than  the  long 
and  narrow  sinks  of  the  steam  chest.  Some  cheaper 
tins  made  like  them  should  be  kept  on  hand  for  such 
purposes. 

The  liquor  in  which  the  head  has  boiled  6  hours 
will  be  a  strong  jelly  when  cold,  without  the  addition 
of  gelatine. 


The  cloth  wrapping  for  galantines  and  pig's  heads 
that  comes  the  nearest  to  absolute  purity  is  a  piece 
of  well-worn  white  linen  tablecloth  such  as  the 
housekeeper  generally  can  supply.  The  many 
bleachings  it  has  had  have  freed  it  from  the  taste  of 
new  cloth.  It  should  be  washed  in  clear  water  and 
kept  white  and  dry  for  such  uses. 


Take  off  the  grease  and  clarify  thejellyinthe 
same  way  as  directed  for  aspic,  and  then  use  it  to 
coat  the  boned  pigs'  heads  in  their  moulds  by  the 
same  method  as  boned  turkeys. 

They  are  adapted  either  to  be  set  on  the  table 
whole  or  sliced  with  the  jelly  surrounding  for  in- 
dividual dishes — their  chief  merit  being,  they  are 
always  declared  to  be  good  eating. 


803cl. 


Head  Cheese. 


Make  it  the  same  in  a  general  way  as  pressed 
coropd  beef,  with  a  sage  and  pepper  seasoning. 

Split  the  heads,  bone  them,  singe,  scrape  and 
thoroughly  cleanse  them  and  let  lie  in  corned  beef 
pickle  about  2  days.  Boil  3  or  4  hours.  Then  cut 
up  the  meat,  strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  gravy 
strainer,  put  cut  meat  and  liquor  back  in  the  boiler 
and  simmer  2  hours  more  with  the  seasonings  added, 
cool  and  press  in  moulds  or  bright  milk  pans.  2 
teaspoonfuls  of  pepper,  2  of  ground  sage  and  2  of 
salt  is  the  average  seasoning  needed  for  one  head 
that  is  partly  salted  before  cooking. 


'It  is  useless  trying  to  make  fat  bacon  heads  "go" 
in  these  forms.  Either  take  off  all  the  fat  for  lard 
or  else  mix  in  a  proportion  of  lean  corned  beef. 

"Oh  why  did  I  at  Brazennose 

Root  up  the  roots  of  knowledge  ? 
A  butcher  that  can't  read  will  kill 
A  pig  that's  been  to  college." 

— Lament  of  Toby^  the  Learned  Pig. 
'*  *1  wonder  it  did  not  create  a  rebellion,'  said 
Sallust.    'It  very  nearly  did,'  returned  Pansa,  with 
his  mouth  full  of  wild  boar." 

— Last  Days  of  Pompeii, 


"The  next  trifle  was  a  wild  boar,  which  emelled 
divine.  Why,  then,  did  Margaret  start  away  from 
it  with  two  shrieks  of  dism  ty,  and  pinch  so  good  a 
friend  as  Gerard  ?  Because  the  duke's  cuisinier 
had  been  too  clever,  had  made  this  excellent  dish 
too  captivating  to  the  sight  as  well  as  taste.  He 
had  restored  to  the  animal,  by  elaborate  mimicry 
wiih  burnt  sugar  and  other  edible  c  lors,  the  hair 
and  bristles  he  had  robbed  him  of  by  fire  and  water. 
To  make  hitn  still  m  )re  enticing,  the  huge  tusks 
were  carefully  preserved  in  the  brute's  jaw,  and 
gave  to  his  mouth  the  winning  smile  that  comes  of 
tusV:  in  man  or  beast :  and  two  eyes  of  colored  sugar 
glowed  in  his  head.  St.  Argut  I  what  eyes  I  so 
bright,  so  bloodshot,  so  threatening — they  followed 
a  man  and  every  movement  of  his  knife  and  spoon." 
— The  Cloister  and  the  Hearth. 

We  have  only  to  remark  of  the  above  ferocious 
monster  that  the  tusks  he  showed  were  not  his  own, 
but  were  imitations  made  of  tallow  hardened  with 
alum  ;  his  mouth  was  made  dreadful  by  being  spread 
all  over  the  inside  with  red  butter  colored  either 
with  beet  juice  or  with  lobster  coral ;  his  savage  grin 
was  produced  by  propping  up  his  lips,  where  the 
tusks  protrude,  while  the  head  was  warm  after 
cooking,  and  letting  it  become  very  cold  before 
taking  the  chips  away,  and  his  eyes  were  very 
likely  of  glass  marbles,  or  the  proper  made  glass 
eyes  used  by  taxidermists  ;  as  for  the  briatles,  the 
skin  was  first  brushed  over  several  times  with  meat 
glaze  and  when  that  was  quite  dry  the  confectioner 
came  with  some  melted  sugar  taffy  and  a  brush  made 
of  iron  wires  and  made  sugar  hairs  stand  up  all  over 
it  and  then  barbered  them  to  the  right  heigbtb. 
All  the  brains  the  boar  bad  in  his  head  was  some 
minced  meat  of  a  calf. 


80;3e.  Pifir's  Head  Galantine. 


Take  the  head  of  a  large  butcher's  porker  cut  off 
with  a  good  part  of  the  neck  attached.  Singe  off 
any  remaining  hairs  and  trim  it  clean.  Commence 
at  the  throat  and  bone  it  carefully,  then  put  it  in 
pickle  for  3  or  4  days.  Stuff  it  with  sausage  meat 
(or,  any  forcemeat  used  for  boned  turkeys  wi  1  do) 
and  strips  of  red  tongue  and  fat  bacon,  and  season 
with  aromatic  spiced  salt. 

Form  it  in  its  natural  shape,  sew  the  cuts  with 
cotton  twine,  roll  up  tightly  in  a  cloth  and  boil  6  or 
6  hours  in  stock  seasoned  well  with  soup  vegetables, 
salt,  pepper  and  sage,  and,  if  so  required,  with  a 
bottle  of  white  wine.  But  with  the  wine  stock  use 
thyme  instead  of  sage.  When  done  let  it  cool  in  the 
liquor  till  it  can  be  bandied  with  ease,  then  take  off 
the  cloth  and  bind  the  head  again  with  bands  of 
cloth,  drawing  it  into  the  shape  it  is  to  have  when 
cold. 

Set  the  ears  up,  and  if  curled  by  boiling  flatten 
them  ^ith  split  pieces  of  wood.    When   quite  cold 


1318 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


unwind  the  bandage,  draw  out  the  sewing  twine, 
trim  the  head  and  glaze  it  in  the  ways  directed  for 
roast  hams. 

*♦  'I  had  hoped/  said  Glaucus,  in  a  melancholy 
tone,  *to  have  procured  you  some  oysters  from 
Britain ;  but  the  winds  that  were  so  cruel  to  Cassar 
have  forbid  us  the  oysters.  *  -x-  «  Xbey 
want  the  richness  of  the  Brundusium  oyster,  but  at 
Rome  DO  supper  is  complete  without  them.'  " 

— Last  Days  of  Pompeii. 

"And  glittering  blocks  of  colored  ice." 

— Aldricji. 

"Ices  and  gentle  drinks  such  as  the  fancy  of 
America  could  alone  devise." 

803r.  —Lothair. 

In  the  entire  list  of  foreign  royal  menus,  some 
four  score  in  number,  previously  ics  anced  in  these 
columns,  only  one  has  huitres  aux  citrons,  or  raw 
oysters  at  all,  and  this  is  at  the  ducal  palace  of 
Hesse  Darmstadt,  in  1868,  and  the  oysters  preceded 
the  meal. 

However,  the  fashion  cannot  be  very  new,  for 
they  tell  us  the  emperor  Heliogabalus  used  to  eat 
400  Brundusium  Blue  Points  every  morning,  to  give 
himself  an  appetite  for  his  breakfast. 

According  to  a  writer  in  Leslie  s  Monthly,  speak- 
ing fjr  New  York,  the  rule  which  declares  oysters 
good  only  ia  the  months  spelled  with  '  r"  is  but 
li'tle  regarded  now,  and  the  trade  is  becoming 
curiously  systematized  so  that  there  is  a  different 
crop  of  oysters  for  different  seasons  and  different 
purposes.  The  Prince's  Bay's  rule  almost  ex- 
clusively in  the  summer  months,  succeeded  by 
Sounds  and  Mill  Ponds.  The  winter  months  bring 
the  Rockaways  and  East  Rivers,  and  the  Blue 
Points,  most  esteemed,  predominate  through  the 
spring.  There  are  long  Saddle  Roc ^s  for  roasts 
and  broils ;  East  Rivers  and  Virginias  for  sJews, 
while  for  a  raw  dish  the  round,  fat,  large  Blue 
Points  and  Shrewsburys  are  preferred. 


The  effort  at  luxury  now  is  to  serve  raw  oysters 
in  hollowed  blocks  of  ice,  and  they  might  as  well  be 
in  clear  colored  ices,  sea  green  and  ocean  blue, 
frozen  in  form  with  shells  and  pebbles — much 
easier  to  freeze  than  sweet  ices  and  mousses  glacees. 


'*  'What  will  your  worship  please  to  take  for  sup- 
supper?'  inquired  the  host.  'I  have  a  cold  cipon, 
and  a  cold  ham,  and  a  famous  cold  pasty  ;  and  I 
can  fry  you  some  noble  crimson  trout  from  the 
Darent,  or  silver  eels,  as  you  may  like  best,  and  I 
can  add  a  dish  of  rare  crayfish  from  the  Cray.' 

'Give  me  the  trout  and  the  capon,'  replied 
Chaucer.  'And,  hark  ye,  while  you  are  preparing 
supper,  bring  me  a  flask  of  red  Gascoigne  wine  and 
a  manchet.'  " 

— James^  Merry  England. 


soser, 


Cold  Ham. 


It  may  be  just  necessary  to  mention  that  hams  to 
be  roasted  or  baked  are  on  rare  occasions  steeped 
in  wine  with  spices  and  herbs,  and  are  entirely 
covered  with  a  flour-and-v\ater  paste  and  so  baked. 
They  are  also  after  steeping  (marinading)  braised 
in  covered  iron  saucepans,  wiih  seasoned  soup  stock 
and  wine,  and  finished  by  baking  brown. 

Put  the  ham  in  water  slightly  warm  and  let  it 
soak  •  all  night.  Wash  and  set  it  on  in  cold  water 
and  boil  3  to  4  hours.  Take  it  up,  remove  the  skin 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour.  Then 
withdraw  it,  cover  with  all  the  cracktr  meal  that 
can  be  m;ide  to  stick  with  pressure,  and  bake  a  few 
miuutes  longer  to  brown  the  breading.  Cracker 
meal  is  pounded  and  sifted  crackers.  Dried  bread 
crumbs  do  as  well,  or  raspings  of  bread. 


803h,      To  Glaze  a  Ham. 


Meat  glaze  may  be  defined  as  beef  tea  boiled 
down  till  it  is  as  thick  as  syrup,  and  like  gum  when 
quite  cold.  It  may  be  obtained  in  quantity  by 
boi'ing  down  rich  stock  or  stewed  meat  liquor. 

To  glaze  a  ham,  after  baking  it  brown  give  it  two 
or  three  coats  with  a  brush  dipped  in  gaze,  drying 
it  in  a  warm  place  after  each  application. 

Another  way,  useful  when  there  is  no  glaze  ready, 
is,  after  baking  the  ham  brown,  cover  it  with  all 
the  granulated  sugar  that  caa  be  made  to  s  ick  to  it 
with  pressure  of  the  hands.  The  ham  shorld, 
however,  be  first  freed  as  much  as  possible  from 
grease  by  means  ofa  dry  cloth.  Put  the  sugar- 
coated  ham  back  in  the  oven  and  watch  it  lill  the 
sugar  has  become  caramel  brown  all  over  alike. 


803i. 


Sandwiches. 


1.  Two  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread  and  a  slice 
of  cold  roast  turkey,  peppered  and  salted,  laid  be- 
tween. Cut  the  slices  in  square  form,  thea  across 
to  make  triangular  sandwiches.  Pile  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

2.  Melt  a  cupful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  Mince 
an  equal  quantity  of  cold  boiied  ham  and  add  it  to 
the  butter.  Put  in  for  seasoning  a  tablespoonful  of 
made  mustard,  pepper  and  a  chopped  pickle. 
Spread  one  slice  of  bread  with  this  mixture,  another 
with  plain  butter  and  lay  a  very  thin  slice  of  cold 
roast  veal  between. 

3.  Spread  slices  of  cold  ham  with  a  little  mus- 
tard and  lay  between  two  slices  of  buttered  bread. 

French  rolls  made  flat  for  the  purpose  and 
shortened  with  butter,  also  well  made  flaky  biscuits 
are  preferable  to  sliced  bread  for  sandwiches  for 
ball  suppers  and  outdoor  parties,  as  they  do  not  be- 
come dry  eo  quickly. 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


219 


Sandwiches  and  Bandv^ch  roU^  are  also  spread 
■with  liver  paste  and  th'  n  shaved  chicken  or  tongue, 
and  witli  anchovies  at*d  caviare. 


802.i.  

Ornamental  Stands  for  Cold  Dishes* 

Such  articles  as  white  galantines,  jardiniere  salad 
and  whole  fishes  covered  with  miyonaise  have  to 
be  raised  on  tall  stands,  or  tbey  make  no  show  at 
all  on  a  set  (able,  and  an  ornamental  set-off  is  as 
valuable  to  a  homely-looking  dish  as  to  some  other 
homely  things,  A  common  glass  cake  stand  can  be 
80  coated  with  white  wax,  or  parrafio,  and  so 
covered  with  whi'e  wax  flowers  of  a  sort  easily 
made,  and  artificial  leaves,  that  it  can  never  be 
recognized  f  r  what,  it  is,  and  a  white  galantine 
seems  very  much  at  home  on  that  sort  of  stand. 
But  the  better  expedient  ia  to  get  a  carpenter  to 
make  some  stands  of  wood,  something  like  glass 
cake  stands,  that  is,  consisting  of  a  stem  set  ia  a 
broad  case,  but  of  oval  shapes,  the  top  being  a  tray 
with  a  hoop-like  rim  to  receive  and  hold  the  large 
meat  platter. 

These  cabinet-work  stands  being  neatly  made  cf 
white  wood  and  smooth,  are  next  to  be  coated  over 
with  parrafin  melted  and  applied  with  a  brush, 
then  smoothed  by  holding  before  the  fire. 

There  are  moulds  to  be  had,  imported  from  Paris 
made  of  type  metal  and  close  fitting  in  which  may 
be  cast  classical  figures  in  white  wax,  sea-horses 
dragons  and  the  Lke  to  be  set  around  the  base  of 
your  stands,  ard  heads  and  faces  and  birds  for  the 
euds  of  the  platters. 

The  making  of  the    multitudinous  roses  is  a  very 


simple  matter,  and  though  they  are  not  very  life- 
like they  answer  the  temporary  purpose  quite  well. 
You  take  half  a  dozen  carrots  of  different  sizes  and 
cut  the  ends  as  near  as  may  be  in  the  resemblance 
of  flowers,  dip  them  in  melted  parrafin  or  wax  and 
then  immediately  into  cold  water.  The  thin  waxen 
mask  of  a  flower  shape  can  then  be  pulled  off  and 
another  made.  These  are  of  course  easily  set  in 
clusters  on  the  stands  by  means  of  melted  wax,  pbA 
white  leaves  such  as  cakes  are  ornamented  with  COBO^ 
plete  the  garlands.  But  all  sorts  .i  mouldin?S»  cpr» 
niees  and  borders  can  bQ  Clad  ,  on  the  sam«  plpSif 
Instead  of  wax  these  stands  can  be  covered  with 
cake  icing,  white  or  colored,  and  with  ornaments  of 
gum  paste. 


One  thing  more :  There  is  a  little  patching  to  be 
done  in  our  trade  as  well  as  others.  It  is  difiicult 
to  boil  a  fish  so  entire  that  it  can  be  covered  smooth- 
ly with  a  jelly  and  show  no  yawning  chasms,  and 
to  have  a  boar's  head  without  an  ugly  twist  in  the 
corner  of  his  mouth.  To  smooth  over  the  breaks  in 
the  fish,  or  to  stuff  it  in  natural  form  make  a  paste 
of  whitefish  pounded  with  half  as  much  bread,  a  little 
butter,  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  bake  the  fish  a  little 
while,  covered  with  buttered  paper.  For  the  other 
case  forcemeat  will  answer,  glazed  over. 


"  *Ah !  what  delicacy  hast  thou  in  store  for  us 
now,  my  Glaucus  V  cried  the  young  Sallust,  with 
sparkling  eyes. 

*I  know  its  face,  by  Pollux !'  cried  Pansa,  *it  is 
*        «        *| 

— The  Last  Days  of  Pompeii. 


802  k.    Raised  Pies. 

They  are  of  two  or  more  kinds,  either  raised  by 
pressing  a  common  paste  info  the  shape  of  a  dish, 
with  the  fingers,  or  made  more  ornamental  with  a 
richer  paste  in  a  tin  mould. 

For  the  la'ter  make  the  ordinary  short  paste  the 
fame  ?»s  for  covered  pies  or  shortcake,  of  a  pound 
cf  lard  to  two  pounds  of  flour  and  a  little  salt,mixed 
up  j-lightly   warm.     Knead  it  compact  and  smooth 

Put  a  buttered  sheet  of  paper  on  a  baking  pan, 
butter  the  mmld  inside  and  set  it  on  the  p&per;  put 
in  a  bottom  crust  half  an  inch  thick  and  then  line 
the  sides,  wet  ing  the  lower  edge  and  pressing  it  to 
join  the  bottom  piece. 

,  The  pie  may  be  filled  with  anything  in  the  meat 
line  that  is  good  to  eat  cold;  there  may  be  a  boned 
chicken  prepared  exactly  as  directed  for  galantine, 
and  some  boned  quails  placed  around  it,  and  have 
trufilea  and  mushrooms  for  seasonings  and  thin 
slices  of  fat  unsmoked  bacou  on  top. 

But  to  make  it  as  fine  as  possible,  the  inside  of 
the  crust  should  be  spread  over  with  liver  pas'e 
made  as  at  No.  802,  or  preferably  perhaps,  with  tine 


sausage  meat,  before  the  fowls  are  put  in. 

Then  put  on  the  top  crust,  pinch  the  edges,  trim 
neatly,  roll  the  scraps  of  paste  thin  and  stamp  out 
leaf  shapes  enough  to  cover  the  top.  Leave  a  hole 
in  the  middle.  Bru  h  over  with  egg  and  water,  tie 
greased  paper  outside  the  same  as  in  baking  a  fruit 
cake;  bake  the  pie  in  a  slack  oven  three  or  four 
hour?.  Open  the  mould  a';d  take  it  off  when  the 
pie  is  nearly  cold,  and  as  no  liquor  is  baked  in  the 
pie,  some  gravy  made  by  boiling  the  bones  of  the 
fowl  down  rich  enough  to  be  jelly  when  cold,  must 
be  poured  in  the  cavity  left  in  the  lid. 

The  renowned  Perigord  pie  has  the  inside  lined 
wi  h  slices  of  truffles  set  in  liver  paste  sea  oned  with 
aromric  salt,  and  the  filling  is  of  fat  goose  livers 
and  truffles,  bacon  on  top  and  aspic  jelly  mixed  with 
Madeira  wine  poured  in  while  the  pie  is  cooling. 


802 1.  Hot  Water  Paste  for  Raised  Pies. 

1  cupful  of  lard. 
lOcupfuls  of  flour. 
IJcupfuls  of  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt. 

Make  the  water  and  lard  hot,but  not  boiling,pou» 


220 


THE  AMERICAN  COOK. 


into  the  middle  of  the  flour  and  stir  up  gradually. 
Work  it  stiff  and  smooth. 

Raised  pies  of  all  sizes  made  of  the  above  kind  of 
paste  formed  by  hand,  and  covered  with  a  top  crust 
more  or  less  ornamented  by  snipping  with  a  pair  of 
shears,  are  quite  an  Eog'ish  institution;  small  pork 
pies,  eel  pies  and  others  being  the  sole  article  of 
trade  at  some  lunch  hous  s;  whilst  the  larger  and 
more  elaborate  forms  are  among  the  Christmas 
dishes  of  world-wide  fame. 


802  m.     Chicken    or    Turkey    Sausage. 

Take  the  skin  off  a  large  fowl  by  first  cutting 
down  the  back  and  cutting  around  the  joints  to  the 
skin  as  nearly  whole  as  possible. 

Cut  all  the  meat  of  the  fowl  from  the  carcass  with- 
out bone  or  gristle,  chop  it  raw,  like  sausage  meat, 
and  then  pound  it  with  a  masher  in  the  chopping 
bowl.  Weigh  it,  and  take  half  as  much  fat  bacon, 
chop  and  pound  it  likewise.  Mix  the  two  pastes 
together,  season  like  sausage-meat  with  pepper.sage 
and  salt.  Roll  up  in  the  skin  of  the  fowl  and  then 
in  a  napkin,  and  boil  the  sausage  in  seasoned  broth, 
with  the  bones  of  the  fowl  in  it,  for  an  hour.  When 
done  put  it  on  a  dish  to  cool  in  the  napkin  it  was 
boiled  in,  and  another  dish  or  other  weight  on  top 
to  give  it  an  even  shape.  Slice  cold  and  ornament 
with  ielly  and  p  srsley. 


802  n.    Truflaed  Chicken. 

1  fat  pullet,  and  the  breasts  of  2  more. 

1  large  can  of  truffles. 

J  pound  of  fat  salt  pork. 

Seasonings. 
Bone  the  fowl  according  to  directions  at  No.  779, 
and  cut  off  the  fiUe  s  or  white  meat  of  tho  other  two 
and  lay  them  all  side  by  side  on  the  table.  Cut  the 
fat  pork  in  thin  strips,  score  gashes  in  thick  parts  of 
the  chiclseu  and  lay  the  strips  in,  cut  the  truffles  and 
dispose  the  pieces  evenly  where  they  will  show  the 
black  spo's  in  the  white  meat  when  the  chicken  is 
sliced.  Dredge  well  with  salt  and  white  pepper 
and  a  little  nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme.  Then  lay 
the  chicken  breasts  in  the  thin  places  of  the  fowl, 
bring  the  two  sides  together  and  sew  up  the  fowl 
into  nearly  its  original  shape.  Do  it  up  in  a  cloth, 
tie  and  pin  it,  and  b  il  it  two  hours  in  salted  broth. 
Press  it  while  cooling.  Take  off  the  cloth  when 
cold,  draw  out  the  thread  it  is  sewed  with.  Serve 
the  fowl  either  incased  in  aspicjelly,  or  coated  with 
melted  butter,  or  slice  it  and  display  the  slices  in  a 
dish. 


place  inside  a  half  of  a  potted   quail,  prepared  ac- 
cording to  the  following  receipt. 


802i7.     Potted  Quail. 

1  dozen  quail. 

1  pound  of  veal. 

1  pound  of  fat  bacon. 

Seasonings  and  paste. 
Bone  the  birds  as  directed  for  boning  fowls;  a 
penknife  may  be  used,  and  no  great  care  is  requir- 
ed, except  to  get  all  the  meat  and  not  tear  the  sides 
to  tatters.  Cut  each  in  two.  Chop  the  veal  and 
bacon  together  into  sausage  meat,  and  season  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mace,  cloves  and  white  pep- 
per, and  the  same  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
mincfd  lemon  riud. 

Select  a  jar  or  two  small  ones  that  the  quail  may 
be  kept  in  after  cooking,  spread  a  thin  layer  of  the 
veal  and  bacon  forcemeat  on  the  bottom,  lay  the 
halves  of  quail  in  order  on  that,  spread  them  with 
a  little  of  the  forcemeat  and  so  on  till  all  are  in, hav- 
ing forcemeat  for  the  top.  Cover  with  a  thin  slice 
or  two  of  bacon,  then  with  a  crust  of  flour  and  water 
paste  and  bake  by  setting  the  jar  in  a  pan  of  water 
in  the  oven,  for  three  hours. 

When  done  take  off  the  crust  and  drain  away  the 
fat  and  gravy  and  press  by  placing  a  small  plate 
inside  on  the  meat  and  a  weight  on  that.  When 
cold  cover  with  clarified  butter  and  cover  tightly  to 
exclude  the  air. 

In  case  bacon  is  not  liked  in  such  pottings  as  the 
two  preceding,  fresh  butter  sufficient  to  cover  and 
bake  the  meat  or  birds  in  can  be  used  instead. 


802  0.    Sandwiches  of  Potted  Quail. 
Make  rolls,  either  split  or  rounded,  but  flat,  and 


802  g.    Potted  Rabbit. 

Potted  meats  will  keep  for  months  if  required,and 
can  be  drawn  upon  as  the  occasion  requires. 

2  small  rabbits  or  1  large  one. 

1  pound  of  fat  bacon.     1  pound  of  veal. 

The  liver  of  the  rabbits. 

Salt,  pepper  and  spices. 
Cut  the  rabbit  in  pieces  and  put  it  in  a  stone  jar; 
cut  the  veal  and  bacon  in  large  dice,  mix  them  and 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mace,  cloves  and  black 
pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  fill  the  spaces 
between  the  pieces  of  rabbit.  Lay  a  thin  slice  or 
two  of  bacon  on  top  and  1  bay  leaf,  then  cover  with 
a  lid  of  p^ain  paste  made  of  flour  and  water  only, 
set  the  jar  in  a  pan  or  pot  containing  water  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven  3  or  4  hours.  There  is  no 
water  needed  in  the  meat.  A  greased  paper  on  top 
will  keep  the  paste  from  burning. 

When  done,8et  the  jar  away  to  become  cold,  pick 
the  meat  from  the  pieces  of  rabbit  and  pound  them  to 
a  paste  along  with  the  veal,  and  bacon  and  fat,  and  if 
any  gravy  at  the  bottom, boil  down  almost  dry  and  mix 
it  in.  Taste  for  seasoning.  Press  solid  into  small  jars 
or  cups, and  cover  the  top  with  the  clear  part  of 
melted  butter.     Keep  tightly  covered  in  a  cool  place. 


THE   AMERICAN   COOK. 


221 


Chain  Pot  Scraper.        For  Potatoes  and  Chipped  Beef.        Wire  Oyster  Broiler 


LONDON  FINE  BAKERY  RECIPES. 


FONDANT    ICING  OR   CREAM   FONDANT. 

Says  Mr.  H.  G.  Harris  in  the  British  and  For- 
eign Confectioner,  Baker  and  Restaurateur  (Lon- 
don): "Why  do  pastry  cooks  all  over  the  coun- 
try (he  might  have  written  <  all  over  two  coun- 
tries ')  persist  in  using  icing  sugar  beaten  up  with 
whites  of  eggs  or  gelatine  for  making  pastry  and 
small  fancy  cakes.?  The  dull,  dead,  opaque,  and 
mostly  rough  surface  obtained  is  always  offensive 
to  me,  and,  I  think,  must  be  so  to  any  one  accus- 
tomed to  use  fondant.  The  beautiful,  bright, 
glistening,  and  semi-transparent  fondant  is  still 
without  a  rival,  and  is  withal  so  cheap,  that  I 
really  do  not  understand  why  every  confectioner 
in  the  country  does  not  use  it?" 

As  far  as  concerns  the  great  body  of  our  hotel 
pastry  cooks,  one  very  sufficient  reason  for  their 
not  adopting  the  better  plan  is  set  forth  in  the 
next  paragraph : 

"  The  utensils  needed  are  a  stove  for  boiling 
sugar — gas  will  do  if  you  have  a  good  volume  of 
jets ;  a  good-sized  copper  stewpan ;  a  marble  slab ; 
a  set  of  polished  i-inch  iron  bars  for  making  the 
sides  of  '  well '  or  •  bay '  on  the  slab.  A  spattle 
like  a  small  iron  peelhead  on  the  handle  of  a  car- 
pet-stretcher; and  a  flat  steel  scraper,  like  those 
used  by  painters.  Also  a  small  earthen  pan  with 
a  cover,  to  keep  the  fondant  in  when  made,  and 
say  half  a  dozen  small  white  metal  French  stew- 
pans  for  melting  the  fondant  for  use  as  needed." 

To  the  above  list  should  be  added  a  saccha. 
rometer — a  small  glass  instrument  (which  costs 
about  $2.50),  graded  to  show  the  different  degrees 
of  boiling  sugar.  It  is  a  fact,  more  or  less  un- 
fortunate, that  but  a  very  small  proportion  of 
hotels  are  so  well  furnished  in  their  working  de- 
partments as  to  possess  these  candy-making  uten- 
sils, and  the  twenty  thousand  houses  that  are 
without  such  conveniences  and  yet  employ  pas- 
try cooks  at  very  fair  pay,  will  still  perpetuate  the 
ready  and  easy  methods  which  require  no  fresh 
outlay  for  special  tools. 

Every  reader  knows  \i\\2X fondant  (pronounced 
fondong)  is,  but  not  by  that  name,  who  has  ever 
eaten  the  assorted  fancy  candies  of  the  shops,  and 
will  now  understand  its  usefulness  and  value :  it 
is  the  white,  soft  candy  that  forms  the  inside  of 
chocolate  drops,  and  that  is  used  in  making  wal- 
nut creams,  fig  creams  and  all  those  "bon-bons  " 
which  have  a  strip  of  candied  fruit  or  nuts  pressed 
into  a  cream  candy  base.     It  is  fondant  icing  to 


spread  over  cakes  when  it  is  melted  over  the  fire, 
and,  perhaps,  slightly  diluted  with  syrup.  As 
icing  it  cannot  be  used  for  piping,  but  is  only  for 
a  glossy  covering  for  cakes.  The  most  concise 
and  lucid  directions  for  making  it  are  the  fol- 
lowing : 

CREAM   FONDANT — NO.    I. 

"  I  presume  from  your  question  that  the  cream 
you  speak  of  is  what  we  call  fondaht,  which  ar- 
ticle is  the  basis  of  all  cream  bonbons.  This  fon- 
dant is  also  used  for  covering  or  icing  cakes  and 
a  great  variety  of  what  is  called  dipped  goods. 
Fondant  is  made  by  boiling  simple  syrup  to  the 
forty-fifth  degree  by  the  saccharometer ;  then 
pouring  it  on  a  very  clean  marble  slab  between 
iron  bars,  and  when  it  has  become  nearly  cold,  so 
that  you  can  place  the  back  of  your  hand  upon  it 
without  its  adhering  to  it;  it  must  be  worked  to 
and  fro  with  a  long-handled  spatula  until  it  gran- 
ulates into  a  smooth  mass,  it  must  then  with  a 
knife  be  loosened  from  the  marble  and  worked  or 
broken  with  the  hands  into  a  softish  mass,  and 
placed  into  an  earthenware  pan  and  covered. 
When  you  want  to  use  it  for  icing  purposes  place 
the  required  quantity  in  a  round-bottomed  pan, 
place  it  upon  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  constantly  with 
a  small  wooden  spatula  until  it  is  thoroughly 
melted,  and  there  are  no  lumps  in  it.  Do  not  on 
any  account  allow  it  to  boil,  even  a  little,  as  that 
would  entirely  destroy  its  creamy  texture  and 
change  it  into  hard  conserve ;  when  melted  pour 
it  over  the  article  to  be  covered  and  use  a  pallet 
knife  to  smooth  it  and  facilitate  your  operation, 
which  must  be  done  quickly,  as  in  a  few  moments 
it  will  begin  to  set  and  dry.  The  cake  can  then 
be  decorated  with  ordinary  egg-icing,  or  in  any 
other  way  to  suit  your  fancy." 

CREAM  FONDANT — NO.   2. 

Take  say  14  lbs.  of  good  loaf  sugar,  put  in  a 
stewpan  with  ly^  lb.  liquid  glucose,  and  2  quarts 
water;  allow  it  to  stand  some  time  to  dissolve 
the  sugar;  the  less  water  you  can  dissolve 
the  sugar  in,  the  less  time  will  it  need  boiling, 
and  consequently  the  better  color  your  fondant 
will  be,  but  all  the  crystals  must  be  dissolved  be- 
fore the  syrup  comes  to  the  boil,  or  you  are  sure 
to  have  trouble  arising  from  recry stall ization  or 
graining ;  whilst  your  syrup  is  boiling  add  a  few 
drops  only  of  acetic  acid,  boil  to  the  soft  ball,  and 
then  quickly  pour  on  to  a  very  clean  marble  slab 
previously  well  sprinkled  w^ith  water,  and  with 


THE    AMERICAN    PASTRY    COO.v 


223 


iron  or  steel  bars  placed  so  as  to  form  a  square  or 
oblong  space  for  the  sugar.  Sprinkle  also  a  little 
cold  water  on  the  surface  of  the  sugar :  it  will 
keep  it  from  forming  a  hard  surface  and  make  it 
easier  to  work  after;  when  nearlj  cold  lift  up  the 
iron  bars,  and  with  a  scrape  clean  them,  and  also 
scrape  the  sugar  all  into  the  middle  of  the  slab ; 
then  with  a  flat  iron  or  wooded  spattle  work  it 
from  the  sides  to  the  middle ;  that  is,  with  a  push- 
ing motion  collect  the  sugar  from  the  outside  of 
the  mass  and  quicklj  and  continually  turn  it  over 
on  to  the  centre  by  a  backward  motion. 

This  will  take  some  little  time,  but  by  and  by 
the  sugar  will  begin  to  look  white,  and  will  con- 
tinue to  do  so,  only  more  so,  until  after  a  little  it 
will  become  quite  opaque  and  hard ;  then  care, 
fully  scrape  it  off  the  spattle  and  slab ;  put  away 
ready  to  use  as  may  be  required. 

CREAM    FONDANT — NO.   3. 
(BY  MR.  E.  G.  HARRIS.) 

It  will  be  best  to  try  a  small  quantity  first,  un- 
til you  get  experience ;  so  we  will  start  with,  say, 
seven  pounds  broken  loaf  sugar  (Say's  loaf  is 
best,  but  Tate's  crushed  is  good,  but  must  be 
sifted  to  remove  all  fine).  Put  the  seven  pounds 
sugar  into  the  stewpan  with  one  pound  liquid 
glucose  and  about  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water.  Put 
the  lid  on  and  stand  the  stewpan  on  one  side  for 
an  hour,  by  which  time  the  sugar  will  be  nearly 
dissolved.  Now  put  on  to  the  stove  and  bring 
up  to  the  6oil.  Be  careful  that  no  lumps  remain 
undissolved  when  the  boiling  point  is  reached. 
Keep  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  washed  down  by 
dipping  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand  into  cold 
water,  and  then  with  your  fingers  clearing  off 
any  sugar  that  may  adhere  to  the  stewpan.  After 
well  washing  the  sides  down,  and  skimming  off 
any  dirt  or  scum  that  may  rise  to  the  surface,  it  is 
best  to  keep  the  cover  on  the  stewpan  for  some 
little  time,  then  the  steam  will  be  sure  to  keep  the 
sides  clean ;  so  place  the  cover  that  the  bulk  of 
the  steam  may  escape,  or  it  will  condense  and  fall 
back  into  the  sugar.  Boil  quickly  as  you  can 
until  the  sugar  reaches  the  ball.  To  try  this,  dip 
your  fingers  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  then  into 
the  boiling  sugar  and  back  into  the  cold  water 
carrying  some  sugar  on  your  fingers ;  and  when 
you  can  roll  up  the  soft  and  sticky  mass  on  your 
fingers  into  the  form  of  a  ball  or  marble  that  will 
just,  but  only  just,  retain  its  shape,  it  is  ready  for 
your  purpose.  It  is  not  needed  to  be  boiled  quite 
so  high  as  the  ball  for  fondant  making,  but  I  bring 
it  back,  slightly,  later  on,  as  I  will  show  you. 

Before  the  sugar  is  quite  finished  boiling,  have 
your  slab  well  washed  and  dried,  and  ready  to 
use ;  and  when  the  sugar  is  nearly  boiled  enough, 
rub  a  little  cold  water  all  over  the  slab  and  arrange 
♦Ue  bars  to  form  either  a  square  or  an  oblong,  so 


that  the  sugar,  when  poured  on,  shall  be  about 
half  an  inch  thick.  Now  pour  quickly  on  the 
slab,  and  sprinkle  all  at  once  over  the  surface  a 
little  cold  water,  until  the  heat  of  the  sugar 
causes  the  water  to  vaporise,  and  steam  ari«es. 
This  will  produce  a  wet  surface  all  over  the  sugar, 
and  prevent  a  thick  skin  forming,  and  also  reduce 
the  tendency  to  graining.  My  reason  for  boiling 
up  to  the  ball  was  to  enable  me  to  put  this  little 
water  on  the  boiled  sugar,  and  thus  bring  it  back 
to  the  pitch  to  which  I  wanted  it. 

Do  not  scrape  out  the  stewpan,  because  the 
sugar  so  scraped  out  will  be  slightly  grained,  and 
will  cause  the  clear  sugar  on  the  slab  to  grain 
more  or  less  if  added  to  it.  Therefore  put  a  little 
water  into  the  stewpan  and  place  back  on  the 
stove,  cover  down  with  lid,  and  the  result  after  a 
little  boiling  will  be  a  clean  stewpan  and  some 
clear  surup  which  will  be  useful  in  many  ways ; 
reducing  the  fondant  to  the  proper  thickness, 
etc.,  when  being  used. 

Do  not  touch  the  sugar  on  the  slab  until  it  is 
nearly  cold,  say  about  forty-five  minutes  after  you 
put  it  there,  but  that  must  depend  on  temperature 
of  the  place,  etc.  (If  the  sugar  is  too  cold,  you 
will  have  great  difficulty  in  beating  it  up,  and  if 
too  hot,  the  graining  will  lake  place  too  quickly, 
and  the  crystals  be  much  too  large.  The  re-crys- 
tallization should  be  so  fine  that  grittiness  or 
graining  is  not  perceptible,  but  the  mass  should 
be  beautifully  white  and  creamy.) 

Now  take  away  the  iron  bars  and  scrape  them 
free  from  sugar;  take  the  large  spattle  in  hand 
and  scrape  the  mass  into  the  middle  of  the  slab, 
and  proceed  to  work  it  well  by  ever  bringing  the 
sides  into  the  middle,  with  a  long  sweep  at  the 
side,  collecting  the  sugar  on  the  spattle,  and  then 
bring  back  the  spattle  over  the  top  of  the  centre, 
reversing  the  spattle  as  you  do  so,  and  leaving 
the  sugar  so  collected  on  the  top  each  time.  In 
a  short  time  the  sugar  will  begin  to  look  milky, 
and,  later  on,  creamy.  And  now,  if  you  please, 
boss,  put  in  all  the  work  you  are  able  for  about 
ten  minutes,  and  then  you  will  see  before  you  a 
mass  of  bright,  white,  creamy,  rocky  looking 
sugar,  and  If  you  break  off  a  piece  you  will  find 
it  quite  soft  and  short,  and  in  your  mouth,  will 
melt  quite  readily  and  taste  creamy.  Scrape  the 
slab  quite  clean,  bringing  all  the  small  pieces  to- 
gether, and  press  them  into  the  main  lump.  Put 
altogether  into  the  earthenware  pan,  and  cover 
down  closely ;  it  will  then  come  back  a  little,  and 
become  a  little  softer. 


GENOISE  CAKE. 

^  pound  of  sugar. 
3^  pound  of  butter. 
13  ^8S»' 


Q24 


THE    AMERICAN    PASTRY    CXX>K. 


xX  pound  of  flour. 

Small  half-cup  of  milk. 

3  teaspoons  of  baking  powder. 

Flavor  with  almond  or  yanilla. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  same  as  for 
pound  cake,  add  the  eggs  2  at  a  time  and  beat  in, 
then  the  milk  and  the  flour  with  powder  in  it 

This  cake  is  used  in  all  sorts  of  wajs,  either  in 
moulds,  or  cut  in  squares,  or  spred  in  sheets,  it 
is  tougher  but  lighter  than  pound  cake,  and  is 
cheaper  in  proportion  to  size  of  cakes. 


MADEIRA    CAKE. 

I^  pound  of  flne  granulated  sugar. 

I  pound  of  butter. 

16  eggs. 

l^  pound  of  flour. 

Flavor  with  lemon. 

Mix  same  as  pound  cake,  hy  stirring  the  butter 
and  sugar  together  till  white  and  creamy  and 
then  beating  the  eggs  in,  2  at  a  time,  and  the 
flour  last. 

Bake  in  muffin  pans  or  patty  pans  with  strips 
of  citron  on  the  top  of  each  cake.  A  slight 
dredging  of  sugar  on  top  of  each  cake  before  bak- 
ing makes  them  glaze  and  look  richer. 

MADEIRA  CAKE — RICHER. 

I  pound  of  sugar. 
I  pound  of  butter, 
12  eggs. 

I  pound  2  ounces  of  flour. 
Lemon  flavor. 
Citron  strips  to  bake  on  top. 
Mix  up  same  as  pound  cake  and  the  Madeira 
cake  of  the  previous  recipe. 

VICTORIA  CAKE. 

I  pound  of  fine  granulated  sugar. 

16  eggs. 

}4  pound  of  butter. 

%  pound  of  flour. 

Separate  the  whites  from  the  yolks,  beat  the 
whites  quite  firm,  add  the  sugar  in  portions  and 
continue  beating,  making  it  the  same  as  kiss 
meringue  mixture;  stir  up  the  yolks,  then  mix 
them  in,  then  the  flour,  and  melt  the  butter  and 
stir  it  in  last.  Bake  in  shallow  moulds,  like 
sponge  cake,  and  in  sheets  to  be  cut  in  diamonds 
and  iced  over. 

JELLY    SLICES. 

Bake  a  sheet  of  Genoise  cake,  or  any  mixture 
you  are  used  to  that  will  bake  level  and  not  rise, 
rounded  over  in  the  middle,  and  have  it  less  than 
an  inch  thick  when  done.  Turn  it  out  of  the  pan, 


bottom  side  up,  cut  in  long  strips,  split  them  and 
spread  with  red  fruit  jelly  or  jam  same  as  jelly 
cake.  Stir  up  a  pearl  glaze  (No.  2)  and  spread 
over  the  top  of  the  strips  of  cake.  This  glaze  or 
icing  can  be  made  with  water  as  well  as  with 
white  of  eggs,  just  enough  to  wet  the  powdered 
sugar  so  that  it  can  be  spread  smoothly,  and  can 
be  made  pink  by  using  fruit  juice  instead  of 
water.  When  these  large  strips  01  jelly  cake  have 
been  iced  over  with  it,  cut  them  with  a  knif? 
dipped  in  hot  water,  into  long  and  narrow  pieces 
and  set  them  a  little  distance  apart  on  pans  for 
the  icing  to  dry. 


MERINGUE    MARSES. 

Make  jelly  slices  like  the  last,  but  instead  of 
plain  sugar  icing  pile  a  thick  covering  of  stiff 
meringue  on  top  of  the  large  strips,  then  with  a 
knife  dipped  in  hot  water  cut  down  through  the 
meringue  and  cake  and  bring  the  knife  straight 
up  again,  so  as  to  divide  the  cake  in  narrow 
strips  without  displacing  the  meringue  much. 
Smooth  the  sides  and  top  of  each  piece,  then  bake 
in  a  slack  oven  to  a  light  fawn  color.  The  sheets 
of  cake  for  this  form  need  not  be  split,  but  jelly 
spread  on  the  top  and  meringue  on  the  jelly. 
The  name  *'  marse  "  is  probably  foreign. 


HINTS   ABOUT   MERINGUE   PASTE. 

The  whites  of  duck's  eggs  make  the  firmest 
meringue.  An  ounce  of  sugar  to  an  ounce  of 
white  of  eggs  is  the  rul  ?.  The  whites  should  be 
beaten  up  quite  firm  at  first — so  that  it  will  not 
slide  about  in  the  bowl  and  will  stay  in  firm 
pieces  wherever  it  is  placed — and  after  that  the 
sugar  should  be  added  in  three  or  four  portions 
and  all  beaten  again.  Too  much  heat  in  the  oven 
will  cause  the  meringue  to  shrivel  and  fall. 


MERINGUE   SURPRISES. 

They  are  shallow  pastry  tarts  containing  half  a 
peach  or  apricot  and  built  up  high  with  meringue, 
then,  instead  of  being  baked,  are  coated  with  hot 
fondant.  The  surprise  consists  in  finding  a  fruit 
tart  inside  of  what  appears  to  be  but  a  kiss  me- 
ringue. Bake  tarts  in  shallow  patty  pans.  Cover 
with  meringue  by  means  of  a  bag  and  tube,  lay- 
ing the  meringue  around  the  edge  first  and  then 
another  ring  and  another  cone -shape  until  it  ends 
in  a  tall  point  at  the  top.  Run  hot  fondant  all 
over  it  by  means  of  a  funnel  with  a  handle,  made 
for  the  purpose.  When  cold  and  dry  remove  the 
"  surprises"  with  a  knife  from  the  marble  slab  en 
which  the  coating  has  been  done,  and  the  surplus 
drippings  of  sugar  can  be  scraped  up  and  saved 


THE    AMERICAN    PASTRY    COOK. 


225 


MERINGUE   PEACHES. 

The  same  in  the  main  as  the  preceding  "  sur- 
prises," but  instead  of  a  cone,  press  out  the  me- 
ringue from  a  kiss  tube  to  imitate  the  shape  of  a 
peach — of  which  the  hidden  tart  is  the  founda- 
tion— color  pink  on  one  side  with  a  brush  dipped 
in  carmine,  then  gloss  over  with  hot  fondant, 
having  a  slight  green  tint  imparted  hy  the  addition 
of  green  vegetable  coloring  while  melting.  These 
are  not  mere  fancy  notions,  but  are  said  to  be 
among  the  best  selling  staple  sweets  of  the 
London  confectioners. 


JELLY   ROLL   MIXTURE, 

I  pound  of  sugar. 

14  eggs — or  I  or  2  less,  if  large. 

I  pound  of  flour. 

^  cup  lukewarm  water. 

}i  teaspoonful  of  soda — small. 

Lemon  or  vanilla  flavor. 

Beat  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light  and 
thick  and  increased  to  three  times  the  original 
bulk,  gradually  add  the  water  while  beating,  with 
the  soda  dissolved  in  it.  Stir  in  the  flour  just 
long  enough  to  put  it  well  out  of  sight,  as  usual 
for  sponge  cake. 

Bake  on  manilla  paper  slightly  buttered,  and 
to  get  the  roll  of  uniform  thickness  run  the  batter 
out  of  a  lady-finger  tube  in  lines  on  the  paper  al- 
most touching,  that  they  may  run  together  and 
make  an  even  sheet  of  cake. 


SWISS  ROLL. 

Having  made  the  jelly-roll  sheet  as  above, 
spread  it  with  fruit  jelly  or  jam,  roll  up,  then  brush 
©ver  with  sweetened  water  well  flavored  with 
lemon  and  roll  it  over  in  plenty  of  powdered 
sugar  spread  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  then  set  it  where 
the  sugar  coating  will  dry. 


VENICE   ROLL. 

Roll  up  a  sheet  of  cake  spread  with  jelly  or 
jam  and  ice  it  over  with  pink  glaze  or  water  icing 
(No.  2),   made  by  wetting  the  icing  sugar  with 


red  currant  or  cherry  juice,  or  wine  and  coloring. 
Ornament  the  top  and  sides  with  a  pattern  in 
white  egg-icing. 

PARIS    ROLL. 

When  the  jelly  roll  is  made,  spread  red  currant 
jelly  thinly  all  over  the  outside,  then  roll  it  in 
grated  or  desiccated  cocoanut,  enough  to  c»at  it 
over.  Some  powdered  sugar  should  be  mixed 
with  the  cocoanut  and  then,  if  the  roll  be  allowed 
to  dry  off,  it  will  not  be  so  liable  to  be  sticky  as 
the  jelly  and  cocoanut  alone  will  make  it. 


CHOCOLATE     ROLL. 

Make  a  jelly  roll  and  cover  the  outside  with 
chocolate  icing  (recipes  for  making  different  sorts 
may  be  found  in  the  index),  and  then  pipe  on  a 
wreath  pattern  in  white  egg-icing. 


JELLY   ROLL  COTELETTES. 

Make  a  jelly  roll  and  with  the  rolling-pin  roll 
down  one  side  rather  flat  so  that  the  slices,  when 
cut,  will  have  the  shape  of  the  meat  part  of  a 
nicely  trimmed  mutton  chop;  the  cake  repre- 
sents the  fat  and  the  jelly  the  streaks  of  lean.  To 
make  the  imitation  better,  ice  the  chops  over 
with  transparent  glaze  or  water  icing.  When 
dry,  build  them  in  cake  basket  or  dish  in  pyramid 
form. 

DECORATED  JELLY  ROLLS. 

Jelly  rolls  to  serve  whole  on  a  set  table  may  be 
covered  with  water  icing  or  pearl  glaze  not  beaten 
(No.  2),  either  white  or  pink,  and  then  ornamented 
with  white  egg-icing  in  wreath  or  vine  and  leaf 
patterns  down  the  whole  length;  or  lines,  or 
bands  may  be  run  down,  and  between  the  lines  of 
icing  run  lines  of  currant  jelly ;  or,  place  sugar 
flowers,  crystallized  fruits  or  small  ornamental 
candies.  Another  way  is  to  moisten  the  outside 
with  water  icing  thinly  spread  with  a  knife  and 
then  roll  in  pink  sugar-sand  or  granite  sugar, 
which  is  of  a  larger  grain. 


Cakes.— The  following  table  gives  the  ingredients  necessary  for  rich  pound,  Twelfth,  or  bride 
cakes  of  various  prices ;  it  is  used  by  a  very  old  established  house  in  London : 


Ingredients. 

2.50 
1016 

3.00 

121- 

3.75 

151- 

4.50 

181- 

5.25 
211- 

7.75 
811- 

10.50 

421- 

Butter 

lb.    oz. 
0      11 

0  7 

1  4 
0        6 

0      IK 
0      0% 
0    11 

6 
wine 

Ib.    oz. 
0      18 

0  8 

1  6 
0       7 
0       2 

o"ih 

7 
glass 

Ib.    oz. 
1        1 

0  10 

1  10 
0       8 
0       2 

0    0^ 

9 

full 

Ib.    oz. 

1  4- 
0      12 

2  0 
0      10 
0       3 

So'; 

lb.    or. 
1       6 

1  0 

2  8 
0      12 
0       8 

0  1 

1  6 
12 

Ib.    or. 
2        1 
1        6 
8      12 
1        2 
0       4 

18 

Ib.    oz. 
S      12 

Sugar 

1      12 

Currants.   .           ...         

5        0 

Orange,  Lemon,  Citron  (mixed) 

1        8 

Almonds 

0       6 

0       2 

Flour...: 

S      12 

Kggs  (number)         

24 

Brandy,  or  Brandy  and  Wine.,., 

Mpt. 

INDEX  TO  VOL  I 


-^TiiQse  Numbers  Relet  tc  trie  Article,  and  Not  to  the  Page.  «e- 


J^peAt  cake,  bakers'  684a 

English,  356 
Maryland,  468 
charlottes,  352  to  357 
cobbler,  462 
compotes,  506 
cream  cake,  261 
cream  pie,  50 
cpstard  pie,  51 
,risped  or  croquante,  251 
dumplings,  427  and  428 
'ioat,  171 
ice  pudding,  115 
pies,  various,  52 
rice  and,  362 
short  cake,  327 
souffle,  686 
turnovers,  240 
Apricot  ice,  93e 

marmalade,  652 
Bananas,  baked,  249 

crisped  or  fritters,  250 
pies,  54  and  64 
Batter  cakes,  577  to  599 
buckwheat,  585 
corn,  637 
graham  bread,  584 
rice,  582 
white  bread,  583 
without  eggs,  578 
Bavarian  creams,  177  to  187 
Bisque  ice  creams,  93  to  96 
Biscuits,  glac«s,  120 
Biscuits,  baking  powder,  600  to  607 
Blanc  manges,  161  to  167 
Bread,  how  to  make,  527  to  536 
brown,  522,  523,  649 
corn,  621  to  649 
graham,  510  to  521 
rolls,  French,  549  to  556 
rolls,  Vienna,  684 

rye,  538 

rye  and  Indian ,  524 

sweet  kinds,  240  to  248 

sweet  coffee  cakes  and  rusks, 
567  to  576 
Butter,  fairy,  685 

lemon,  38 

peach,  652b 

pumpkin,  652a 
C*kes,  almond,  12 

angel  food,  1 

apple,  684a 

apple  cream,  261 

black  fruit,  652c  and  656 

butter  sponge,  158 

cheap  fruit,  323  » 

cookies,  665 

cream  Boston,  296 

cream  layer,  160 

delicate  sorts,  4  to  21 

gingerbreads,  544  to  546 

jelly  roll,  436 

jelly  roll,  white,  4 

lady  fingers,  317 

layer  fruit,  652d 

macaroon,  264 

Napoleon,  267 

pound, 653 

pound,  fruit,  654 

queen,  14 


small,  various,  660  to  676 
sponge,  3 
sponge,  water,  321 
sponge,  small,  155 
wedding,  656 

yeast — raised,  various,  608  to 
Candies,  various,  218  to  239       617 

bon-bons,  238 
Caramel  coloring,  330 
Catawba  cup.  689 
Charlotte,  apple,  352 

Chantilly,  191 
Charlotte-russe,  190  to  198 
individual,  note,  page  2 
paper  cases  for,  502 
strawberry,  small,  503 
Cheese  cakes,  247 
Cheese  creamed,  294 

(ondu,  295 
Chocolate,  691a 
cake,  8 
candy,  238 
caramels,  234 
cream,  187 
cream  pie,  55 
custard,  meringue,  465 
ice  cream,  98 
icing,  25 
Cocoanut,  baked  custard,  172 
cakes,  small,  17 

white,  667 
candies,  226  and  238m 
caramels,  157 
conserve,  291 
ice  cream,  108 
macaroons,  144 
pies,  43  to  46 
pudding,  385 
puffs,  300 
Coffee,  white,  for  parties,  691 
Conserve,  almond,  290 
orange,  292 
pineapple,  306 
Cornmeal,  twenty  ways,  621  to  649 
bread,  622 
gems,  624 
muffins,  625 
puddings,  629  to  636 
tortillas,  626 
Corn  starch  blanc  mange,  161 
cream  puffs,  298 
custard  pie,  61 
ice  cream,  79 
jelly,  162 
pastry  cream,  293 
pudding,  boiled,  419 
pudding,  baked,  421 
meringue,  422 
Creams,  gelatine,  various,  177  to 

strawberry,  whipped,  504    189 
Cream,  curd,  for  cheesecakes,  303 
fritters,  254 
puffs,  Boston,  296 
Crullers,  564 

Cup  custards,  465  and  467 
rice,  113 
tapioca,  112 
vanilla,  77 
Doughnuts,  558  to  565 

Bismarcks,  268 
,  Dumplings,  427  to  447 


Eclairs,  a  la  comtesse,  298 

a  la  creme,  296 

au  caramel,  300 

au  confiture,  301 
Egg  lemonade,  687 

Fig  cream  candy,  238j 

paste,  238o 

pie,  54 

pudding,  frozen,  320 
Floating  islands,  168  to  171 
Florentine,  264 
Friar's  omelet,  356 
Fritters,  274  to  283 

fruit,  253 

plain,  255 

queen,  274 

Spanish  puff,  275 
Frosted  fruits,  238r 
Frozen  puddings,  86  to  127 

custard,  77 
Fruit  syrups,  103 
Frying  batter,  253 

Grapes,  glazed,  with  sugar,  238 

Ice  creams,  74  to  114 

caramel,  320 

chocolate,  98 

cherry,  83 

cocoanut,  108 

coffee,  99 

curacao,  100 

custard,  77 

ginger,  93d 

maraschino,  100 

Neapolitan,  126 

Nesselrode,  86 

pineapple,  93 

rose,  74 

strawberry,  104 

starch,  79 

tutti  frutti,  127 

vanilla,  pure  cream,  84 
Ices,  fruit,  various,  74  to  124 

lemon,  117 

orange,  97 
Ice  cups  or  bombes,  118 
Iced  froths,  122  and  124 
Icing  cake,  212 

chocolate,  25 

flowers,  roses,  215 

gum  paste,  216  and  217 

pearl,  2 

rose,  24 

Kisses,  egg,  137 
star,  319 

Jellies,  198  to  209 
Jelly,  corn  starch,  162 

tapioca,  163 

wine,  204 

Liady  fingers,  317 

Layer  cakes,  652d,  81,  160 

Lemonade,  688 

Lemon  butter,  38 
honey,  289 
mincemeat,  310 
pies,  35  to  42 
pies,  without  eggs,  263 
pudding,  baked,  348 
pudding,  boiled,  407 


D 


ME Acaroons,  144,  145,  238 

corn  starch,  baked,  421 

Rhubarb  cobbler,  462 

Marmalade,  apricot,  652 

boiled,  419 

marmalade,  651 

rhubarb,  651 

cherry  steamed,  47S 

pie,  54 

Meringues,  a  la  creme,  139 

cranberry  roll,  344 

Rice  and  raisins,  363 

Meringue  cakes,  147 

Eve's,  360 

boiled,  371 

custards,  667  and  456 

farina,  baked,  377 

cup  custard,  113 

for  lemon  pies,  43 

boiled,  420 

puddings,  without  eggs,  861 

fruit,  various,  322  to  325 

fruit,  steamed,  387 

Sauces  for  puddings,  477  to  501 

puffs,  various,  140  to  143 

gipsy,  475 

brandy,  486 

Mincemeats,  various,  309  to  316 

granula,  430c 

cream,  500                             , 

Oranges,  candied,  238 
with  rice,  366 

Indian,  456  and  458 
plum,  boiled,  328  and  331 

golden,  495 
richest  wine,  478 

Orange  butter,  292  and  48 
ice,  97 
pie,  47 

queen,  347 
rice  cake,  367 

sabayon,  493  to  498 
sugar  dip,  477 

rice  custard,  baked,  364 

Sherbet,  lemon,  117 

rice  and  milk,  361 

orange,  97 

Paper  cases,  502 

sago,  879 

pineapple,  105 

Pancakes,  258  and  259 

sponge,  451 

suet,  boiled,  402  to  407 

Turkish,  130 

Pastry  creams,  285  to  293 

Shortcake,  almond,  246 

Paste  gum,  216 

tapioca,  baked,  375 

apple,  327 

puff,  28 

steamed,  372 

peach,  326 

short,  plain,  326  and  426 

West  Point,  401 

Saratoga,  244 

tart,  sweet,  469 

Yorkshire,  408 

strawberry,  326 

Patties,  242  to  260 

Puff  pastry,  28 

Souffles,  apple,  686 

Peaches  and  cream,  173 

puddings,  337 

beignets,  274 

Peach  butter,  652b 

Punches,  frozen,  various,  88  to  136 

puddings,  337 

cobbler,  327a 

Roman,  132 

Strawberries  and  cream,  174 

flan,  41 

Pies,  apple,  various,  52 

Strawberry,  Bavarian,  180 

ice,  85 

currant  cream,  57 

charlottes,  503 

pic,  54 

chocolate  cream,  55 

meringue  322 

pudding,  460 

cocoanut,  43  to  46 

punch,  135 

Pears,  crisped,  251 

custard,  58  and  61 

shortcake,  note,  page  4 

pie,  54 

fruit,  various,  o4 

Tapioca,  frozen  custard,  112 

Pineapple  fritters,  253 

lemon,  35  to  42 

Tarts  and  small  pastries,  72 

ice,  105 

without  eggs,  263 

7    macaroon,  266 

sweet  salad,  507 

mince,  308  to  316 

Tea  for  party,  690 

Puddings,  328  to  475 

potato,  63  and  64 

Transparent  pie,  288 

apple  custard,  359 

pumpkin,  65  to  67 

Vol-au-vents,  72 

roll,  note,  page  3 

squash,  68  and  69 

Weights  and  measures,  page  6 

basin,  English,  430 

tomato,  54 

Whipped  cream,  note,  page  2 

batter,  409 

vinegar,  cheap,  59 

White  coffee  for  party,  691 

birds's  nest,  412 

If  east,  512 

cabinet,  418 

Ramequins,  248 

stock,  681 

BOOK  OF  SALADS  AND  COLD  DISHES. 


Aromatic  or  spiced  salt,  790 
Aspic  jelly,  735 

galantine  in  786 

oysters  in  739 

of  fillets  of  fowl,  760 

shrimps  in  737 

Deans,  Lima,  697 

how  to  cook,  698 
Boihng  vegetables,  green,  741 

fowls,  755 

fish,  752 
Boiled  round  of  beef,  799 
Boned  chicken,  787 

duck,  791 

goose,  791 

pig's  head,  807 

quail,  802 
Brine  corned  beef,  792 
Buisson  of  lobsters,  749 

Caviar,  727 

Chicken  liver  paste,  805 

Chicken  salad,  756  and  769 

truffled,  802 
Corned  beef,  793 

pressed,  797 

in  aspic,  798 

ff'ish  salads,  750  and  751 

©alantines  in  general,  777 
Galantine  en  bellevue,  784 


sliced,  with  jelly,  782 

pig's  head,  802 

quail,  802 

stuffing,  785 
Goose  galantine,  791 
Green  mayonaise,  754 

Ham,  cold  roast,  802 

liiver  cheese  in  jelly,  802 

Iflayonaise,  692  and  738 
mock,  776 

Ornamental  dishes,  802 

Pie  or  pate  in  a  mould,  802 
Potted  Cisco,  802 

ham,  802 

quail,  802n 

rabbit,  802 

tongue,  802 

Raised  pies,  802k 

hot  water  paste  for,  8021 

Salads,  cabbage,  762 
cauliflower,  699 
celery,  706 
chicken,  759  and  756 
corn,  700 
crab,  728 
cucumber,  772 
egg,  802 
endive,  768 


fish,  750 

ham,  705 

Hamburg,  725 

herring,  726 

Italian,  744 

jardiniere,  740 

lettuce,  795  and  767 

lobster,  746 

macedoine,  724 

oyster,  703  and  738 

potato,  plain,  729 

potato  in  dressing,  723  and  731 

Russian,  745 

salsify,  732 

shrimp,  733 

tomato,  775 

turkey,  758 

veal,  757 

vegetable,  701 
Salad  dressing,  favorite,  T07 

mayonaise,  693 

without  eggs,  709 

without  oil,  696 
Sandwiches,  802 
Smoked  tongue,  802 
Spiced  beef  rolls,  802 

round,  800 

pickle  for,  801 
salt,  789 

White  galantine,  788 


WHITEHEAD'S 

HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS. 


No.  I.-'^THE  AMERICAN  PASTRY  COOK." 

PRICE,  POSTPAID,  S2.00. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 

PART  FIRST— The  Hotel  Book  of  Fine  Pastries,  Ices,  Pies,  Patties,  Cakes,  Creams,  Custards,  Char. 

lottes,  Jellies  and  Sweet  Entrements  in  Variety. 
PART  SECOND— The  Hotel  Book  of  Puddings,  Souffles  and  Meringues.   A  handy  Collection  of  Valuable 

Recipes,  original,  selected  and  perfected  for  use  in  Hotels  and  Eating  Houses  of  every 

Grade. 
PART  THIRD— The  Hotel  Book  of  Breads  and  Cakes;  French,  Vienna,  Parker  House,  and  other  Rolls, 

Muffins,  Wiiffles,  Tea  Cakes;  Stock  Yeast  and  Ferment;  Yeast  raised  Cakes,  etc.,  etc., 

as  made  in  the  best  hotels. 
PART  FOURTH— The  Hotel  Book  of  Salads  and  Cold  Dishes,  Salad  Dressings,  with  and  without  oil; 

Salads  of  all  kinds,  how  to  make  and  how  to  serve  them;  Boned  Fowls,  Galantines, 

Aspics  etc.,  etc. 

The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  the  "American  Pastry  Cook,"  together 
with  a  large  amount  of  valuable  miscellaneous  culinary  matter. 


No.  2.-"HOTEL  MEAT  COOKING." 

PRICEs  POSTPAID.  $2.00. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 

PART  FIRST— The  Hotel,  Fish  and  Oyster  Book;  Showing  all  the  best  methods  of  Cooking  Oysters 

and   Fish,   for  Restaurant  and   Hotel   Service,   together  with  the  appropriate  Sauces 

and  Vegetables. 
PART  SECOND^How  to  Cut  Meats,  and  Roast,  Boil  and  Broil.    The  entire  trade  of  the  Hotel  Meat 

Cutter,  Roaster  and  Broiler,  including  "Short  Orders,"  Omelets,  etc. 
PART  THIRD— The  Hotel  Books  of  Soups  and  Entrees,  comprising  specimens  of  French,  English  and 

American  Menus,  with  translations  and  comments.     Showing  how  to  make  up  Hotel 

Bills  of  Fare,  with  all  the  different  varieties  of  Soups  and  Consommes  in  proper  rotation, 

and  a  new  set  of  entrees  or  "made  dishes"  for  every  day. 
PART  FOURTH— Creole  Cookery  and  Winter  Resort  Specialties. 
PART  FIFTH— Cook's  Scrap  Book—A  Collection  of  Culinary  Stories,   Poems,  Stray  Recipes  etc.,  etc. 

Index  of  French  Terms,  an  explanation  and  translation  of  all  the  French  terms  used  in 

the  Book,  alphabetically  arranged. 

^^  The  above  parts  are  all  comprised  in  "Hotel  Meat  Cooking,"  together 
with  a  large  and  varied  selection  of  matter  pertaining  to  this  part  of  the  culinary  art. 


No.  3.-'<WHITEHEAD'S  FAMILY  COOK  BOOK." 

PRICE,  POSTPAID,  SI. 50. 

A  PROFESSIONAL  COOK'S  BOOK  FOR  HOUSEHOLD  USE. 

Consisting  of  a  series  oi  Alemcs  for  every -day  meals,  and  for  private  entertainments, 
with  minute  instructions  for  making  every  article  named. 


The  Recipes  in  all  these  books  are  properly  headed,  numbered  and  indexed,  lor 
handy  reference. 

The  author  of  this  series  of  Hotel  Cook  Books  is  a  professional  Cook  of  Thirty 
Years'  Experience,  and  every  recipe  has  been  tried  and  practically  proved. 

The  above  books  will  be  sent  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price:  "American  Pastry 
Cook,"  $2.00;  "Hotel  Meat  Cooking,"  $2.00;  "Family  Cook  Book,"  $1.50. 

Adress  all  orders  to 

Jessup  IVhitehead  &  Co., 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS, 

....CHICAQO,  ILL. 


NO.  4. 

The  Famous  California  Boole  of  COOKING,  STEWARDING, 
CATERING  and  HOTEL  KEEPING,  called 

Cooking:  for  Profit 

and  eight  weeks  at  a  Summer  Resort, 

Two  Books  in  One.    About  400  Pages. 

A  Remarkable  Volume  which  shows  how  rioney  is  made  by  Boarding 
People  and  What  it  Costs  to  Live  Well. 


OOIMXEIMXS: 


PART  FIRST — Some  Articles  for  the  Show  Case.  The  Lunch  Counter.  Restaurant  Breakfasts,  Lunches 
and  Dinners.  Hotel  Breakfasts,  Dinners  and  Suppers.  Oyster  and  Fish  House  Dishes.  The  Ice 
Cream  Saloon.  Fine  Bakery  Lunch.  Quaker  Dairy  Lunch.  Confectionery  Goods,  Homemade 
Beers,  etc. 

PART  SECOND— Eight  Weeks  at  a  Summer  Resort.  A  Diary.  Otcr  daily  Bill  of  Fare  and  what  it  cosL^. 
A  Party  Supper  for  Forty  Cents  per  Plate.  The  Art  of  Charging-  Enough.  A  School  Commence- 
ment Supper.  Question  of  How  Many  Fires.  Seven  Fires  for  fifty  persons  vs.  one  Fire  for  fifty. 
The  Round  of  Beef  for  Steak.  A  Meat  Block  and  Utensils.  Bill  of  Groceries.  A  Month's  Sufiply 
Jor  a  Summer  Boarding"  House^  "with  Prices.  A  Refrigerator  Wanted.  Aiiout  keeping  Provisions  / 
Restaurant  Patterns.  A  Good  Hotel  Refrigerator.  Cost  of  Ice  to  supply  it.  Shall  we  have  a  Bill  of 
Fare?  Reasons  why  :  a  Blank  Form.  Is  Fish  Cheaper  than  Meat?  Trouble  with  the  Coffee.  How  to 
Scrub  the  Kitchen.  Trouble  with  Steam  Chest  and  Vegetables.  Trouble  with  the  Oatmeal.  Build- 
ing a  House  with  Bread  Crusts.  Puddings  without  Eggs.  A  Pastry  and  Store  Room  Necessary, 
A  Board  on  a  Barrel.  First  Bill  of  Fare.  Trouble  with  Sour  Meats.  Trouble  with  the  Ice  Cream . 
The  Landlord's  Birthday  Supper.  Showing  how  rich  atid fancy  Cakes  were  made  and  iced  and  orna- 
mented vjithout  using  Eggs,  The  Landlady's  Birthday  Supper.  Trouble  in  Planning  Dinners. 
TiDi-b''-  >vith  Captain  Johnson.  Trouble  in  Serving  Meals.  Trouble  with  the  Manager.  Breakfasts 
anc  O'  jjpers  for  Six  Cents  per  Plate.  Hotel  Dinners  for  Ten  Cents  per  Plate.  Hotel  Dinners  for 
Seventeen  Cents  per  Plate.  Supper  for  Forty  for  Eight  Cents  per  Plate.  Breakfast  for  Forty  for 
Nine  Cents  per  Plate.  An  Expensive  Wedding  Breakfast, /o?"  the  Colonel  and  the  Banker's  Daughter. 
Four  Thousand  Meals.  Review.  Groceries  for  4,000.  Meat,  F'ish  and  Poultry  for  4,000.  Flour, 
Sugar  and  Coffee  for  4,000.  Butter  and  Eggs  for  4,000.  Potatoes,  Fresh  Vegetables  and  Fruits  for 
4,000.  Canned  Fruits  and  Vegetables  for  4,000.  Milk  and  Cream  for  4,000.  Total  Cost  of  Provisions 
for  4,000.  How  to  Save  Twenty  Dollars  per  Week.  How  Much  we  Eat.  How  Much  we  Drink. 
How  Much  to  Serve.  Work  and  Wages.  Laundry  Work.  Fuel,  Light  and  Ice.  Total  Cott  of 
Board.  How  Much  Profit?  How  Many  Cooks  to  How  Many  People ?  Boarding  the  Employees. 
Boarding  Children.  Meals  for  Ten  or  Fifteen  Cents.  Country  Board  at  Five  Dollars.  If — a  Bundle 
of  Suppositions.  Keeping  Clean  Side  Towels.  How  Many  F^ires — ^Again.  A  Proposal  to  Rent  for 
next  Season.    Conclusion. 

THE  CONTENTS  ALSO  INCLUDE: 

One  Hundred  Different  Bills  of  Fare,  of  Actual  Meals,  all  with  New  Dishes;  the  Amount  and  the  Cost 

per  Head. 
Eleven  Hundred  Recipes.     All  live  matter  that  every  Cook  needs— both  by  Weight  and  by  Cup  and 

Spoon  Measure. 
i^  Dictionary  of  Coolcery,  Comprised  in  the  Explanations  of  Terms  and  General  Information  contained 

in  the  Directions. 
Artistic  Cookery.    Instructions  in  Ornamentation,  with  Illustrations,  and  Notes  on  the  London  Cookery 

Exhibition  of  1SS5. 

it  is  thoroughly  analytical,  practical,  readable,  and  the  first  book  of  the  principles  of  the 
systematic  hotel-keeplns. 

PRICE,  POSTPAID,  S3.00. 

Address: 

Jessup  M^hitehead  &  ^o.y 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BO*^  *M 

...''MICAQO,  ILL. 


NUMBER  5, 


The  STEWARD'S  Handbook 

AND  GUIDE  TO  PARTY  CATERING. 
BY  JESSUP  WHITEHEAD. 


PRICE,   POSTPAID,   $3.00. 

EMBRACES  THE  FOLLOWING: 

PART  FIRST— HOTEL  STE WARDING.  Showing  the  Internal  Workings  of 
the  Ameiican  System  of  Hotel  Keeping.  The  Steward's  Duties  in 
Detail,  and  in  Relation  to  Other  Heads  of  Departments.  Steward's 
Storekeeping,  Steward's  Bookkeeping,  and  Management  of  Help.  Also, 
Composition  of  Bills  of  Fare,  the  Reasons  Why,  and  NuTiierous  Illus- 
trative Menus  of  Meals  on  the  American  Plan. 

PART  SECOND  — RESTAURANT  STEWARDING.  Co.nprising  a  Survey  of 
Various  Styles  of  Restaurants  and  their  Methods,  Club  Stewarding  and 
Catering,  Public  Party  Catering,  Ball  Suppers,  Base  Ball  Lunches,  Hotel 
Banquets,  etc. ;  How  to  Prepare  and  How  to  Serve  Them,  with  Numer- 
ous Pattern  Bills  of  Fare  Carried  Out  to  Quantities,  Cost  and  Price  per 
Head. 

PART  THIRD— COMPRISING  CATERING  FOR  PRIVATE  PARTIES.  A 

Guide  to  Party  Catering.  Wedding  Breakfasts,  Fantasies  of  Party 
Givers,  Model  Small  Menus,  and  Noteworthy  Suppers,  with  Prices 
Charged.  Also,  Catering  on  a  Grand  Scale.  Original  and  Selected 
Examples  of  Mammoth  Catering  Operations,  Showing  the  Systems 
Followed  by  the  Largest  Catering  Establishments  in  the  World.  Also, 
a  Disquisition  on  Head  Waiters  and  their  Troops. 

PART  FOURTH— WHITEHEAD'S  DICTIONARY  OF  DISHES,  Culinary 
Terms  and  Various  Information  Pertaining  to  the  Steward's  Depart- 
ment, being  the  Essence  of  all  Cook  Books,  Telling  in  Brief  what  all 
Dishes  and  Sauces  are  or  what  they  should  Look  Like.  What  Materials 
are  Needed  for  and  what  They  are.  How  to  Use  to  Advantage  all  Sorts 
of  Abundant  Provisions,  or  How  to  Keep  Them.  Comprising,  also,  a 
Valuable  Collection  of  Restaurant  Specialties,  Distinctive  National 
Cookery,  Remarks  on  Adulterations,  and  How  to  Detect  Them,  Treat- 
ment and  Service  of  Wine,  and  a  Fund  of  Curious  and  Useful  Informa- 
tion in  Dictionary  Form,  for  Stewards,  Caterers,  Chefs,  Bakers,  and  all 
Hotel  and  Restaurant  Keepers. 

PART   FIFTH  — HOW  TO    FOLD    NAPKINS.     Abundantly  Illustrated  with 
many  Handsome  Styles  and  Diagrams  which  Show  how  It  is  Done. 
Address  all  Orders  to 

Jessup  Whitehead  &  Co., 

PUBLISHERS  OF  HOTEL  COOK  BOOKS, 

CHICAGO,  ILl 


WHITEHEAD'S 
Professional  Cookery  BookSt 

No.  l.-THE   AMERICAN    PASTRY  COOK.     A 

book  of  perfected  Receipts,  for  making'  a? 
sorts  of  articles  required  of  the  Hotel  Pastry 
Cook,  Baker  and  Confectioner.     Cloth,  $2.0U. 

No.  2.-H0TEL  MEAT  COOKING.  Comprising 
Hotel  and  Restaurant  Fish  and  Oyster  Cook- 
ing. How  to  Cut  Meats,  and  Soups,  Entrees 
and  Bills  of  Fare.    Cloth,  $2  00. 

No.  3. -WHITEHEAD'S  FAMILY  COOK  BOOK. 
High-class  cookery  for  families  and  party - 
givers,  including  Book  of  Breads  and  Cakes. 
Cloth,  $1.50. 

N0.4.-COQKIN6  FOR  PROFIT  and Eig:ht  Weeks 
at  a  Summer  Resort.  A  new  American  Cook 
Book  adapted  for  the  use  of  all  who  serve 
meals  for  a  nrice.     Cloth,  $3.00. 

No.  5.-THE  STEWARD'S  HANDBOOK  and  Guide 
to  Party  Catering,  Stewarding,  Bills  of  Fare, 
2L.nAz.  Dictionary  <?/ Z>wA*.9  and  Culinary  Terms 
and  Specialties.     Cloth,  $3.00. 

All  books  sent  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price. 

Jessup  Whitehead  <&  Co, 

Publishers  of  Hotel  Cook  Booke 
Chicago^  III, 


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