THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
'
n
Fr
MRS. HARRIET ALMARIA KAKER SUDDOTH.
THE
JMI
OR
Housekeeper's Encyclopedia,
CONTAINING MORE THAN 22.OOO VALUABLE AND PRACTICAL
RECIPES, CONTRIBUTED BY HOUSEKEEPERS FROM EVERY
PART OF THE CIVILIZED WORLD, ALL PRACTI-
CAL AND TESTED; WITH MANY THOU-
SANDS BY THE AUTHORESS.
FOR THE SPECIAL USE OF FAMILIES AND NURSES,
IN CITY AND COUNTRY; RESTAURANTS,
BOARDING HOUSES AND HOTELS.
BY
MRS. HARRIET ALMARIA BAKER SUDDOTH.
INTRODUCTION BY REV. WM. A. SCOTT, D.D., LL.D., PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER
OF THE SAN FRANCISCO THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL, AND ALSO FOUNDER
OF THE SAN FRANCISCO COLLEGIATE UNIVERSITY, AND
SAN FRANCISCO MEDICAL COI LEGE, CAL.
fllust'd with Eight Colored Plates and Portrait of the Authoress.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. :
A. L. BANCROFT & CO.,
No. 721 Market Stieet,
I88 3 .
Copyright, 1883, by MRS. H. A. B. SUDDOTH.
rights reserved.-^*
THE AMERICAN PICTORIAL HOME BOOK,
OR
HOUSEKEEPER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA,
Is the result of many years of earnest effort and practical study.
It is a work that may be studied with pleasure and profit during
the hours of ease and leisure, and in cases of emergency it can be
referred to as a judicious friend and adviser in a remedial point
of view.
It is unsurpassed as a valuable Reference Book for young
housekeepers, and a prompt and ready guide in all household
matters ; in caring for the Sick and directing Servants ; in the
Nursery, Laundry, Dairy, Poultry and Farm Yards, the Garden,
Etiquette, etc. Its recipes and suggestions are applicable to all
climates and all conditions of life.
INDEX OF SUBJECTS.
INTRODUCTORY ESSAY 9
PREFACE 14
A CHRISTMAS DINNER 38
BATTER CAKES 214
BEERS, ALE AND CIDER 429
BEES, 500
BISCUITS AND ROLLS 206
BREAD MAKING 199
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA 343
BOILING 83
BROILING 84
CANARY BIRDS 502
CANDIKS 332
CAN VEGETABLES, ETC 336
CARVING 120
CARVING FISH, DIRECTIONS FOR 57
CARVING FOWLS, DIRECTIONS FOR 122
CARVING JOINTS, DIRECTIONS FOR 121
CHOWDERS : 70
COFFEE 341
COMFORTABLE COOKING 36
CONFECTIONS AND CONSERVES FOR THE SICK 375
COOKING FOR THE NEEDY AND INVALIDS 363
CORNS, BUNIONS AND WARTS 535
CORDIALS, BRANDIES, ETC 437
CRABS 75
CREAMS 328
CROQUETS 116
CURRIES 338
CUSTARDS 282
DAIRY, THE 458
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT 90
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING JOINTS 121
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FOWLS AND GAME 122
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH 57
DISHES MADE FROM A CHRISTMAS DINNER 40
DISHES OK ROYALTY 518
DRIED FRUITS 475
5
6 INDEX OK SUBJECTS.
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES 377
DUMPLINGS 230
EELS 70
FEATHERS 536
FIGS, How CULTIVATED 475
FLOWNS OR FLOATS 361
FORCEMEATS OR STUFFING 504
FOREIGN DISHES 385
FOWLS 133
FRICASSES 152
FROGS 70
FRUIT ICES AND SYRUP 442
FRUITS 475
FRYING 82
GAME, EDIBLE BIR'DS, ETC 141
GAME OF CROQUET 521
GARDENING 492
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON EGGS 124
GENERAL REMARKS ON PICKLES 490
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FISHES 55
GLYCERINE 534
GOOD WORDS 21
GRAVIF.S 77
HASHES 113
HEALTH NOTES AND MAXIMS "551
HINTS FOR WIVES 32
HOGS AND THEIR DISEASES 471
HONEY 329
HORSES AND THEIR DISEASES 467
How FIGS ARE CULTIVATED 475
How TO COOK FISH 60
How TO PREPARE CASKS, ETC 433
ICING AND FROSTING 280
ICE, FREEZERS, ETC 444
JELLIES AND PRESERVES 285
LADIES' TOILET 537
LAUNDRY THE 579
LOBSTERS 76
LOCATION OF A HOUSE 27
MEAT, DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK 90
MINCED MEATS 294
MUFFINS 212
NEEDY AND INVALIDS, COOKING FOR 363
OLD BUT VALUABLE STYLE OF COOKING 516
INDEX OF SUBJECTS. 7
OMELETS 126
OUR PARLORS AND OUR CHILDREN 24
OAT MEAL AND BUCKWHEAT CAKES 225
OYSTERS 73
PANCAKES 232
PASTRY FOR PIES 296
PATTIES 317
PICKLES 188
PIES, MEAT AND SAVORY 299
PORK AND BACON 105
POULTRY 507
PUDDINGS, MEAT AND SAVORY 235
PUFFS AND TARTS 3 l8
RATS AND MICE 5 O1
REMARKS ON DINNER PARTIES 37
REFRESHING DRINKS 4^6
ROASTING , 86
ROLLS 288
SALADS 182
SANDWICHES 131
SAUCES AND CATSUPS 185
SAUSAGES 119
SCALLOPS OR Co i LOPS 117
SHEEP AND THH.IR, DISEASES 47
SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES 22
SOUPS AND BROTHS , 43
SPICES 33 s
STRWING 88
SWRKT CAKES , 275
SWKET BREADS , 112
SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES , 322
SWEET PUDDINGS 240
SWEET SAUCES 357
TEA CHOCOLATE 341
THE BEAUTY OF A WELL-ORDERED HOME 23
THE FARM 448
THE HUSBAND 32
THE HAIR 523
THE MISTRESS 33
THE NURSERY 575
THE VINEYARD 484
TREES AND SHRUDS 478
TURTLES 80
VARIOUS REMARKS ON FISH 58
8 INDEX OF SUBJECTS.
VEGETABLES 156
VINEGARS 485
WAFERS 212
WAFFLES 209
WATER 513
WINES 419
YEAST 232
INTRODUCTORY ESSAY.
" OF making many books," says Solomon, " there is no end."
But this was said long ago. What the wise king would say in such
a publishing age as this, with all its societies and newspaper men, is
beyond our comprehension. Have we too many books ? Yes, the
number of worthless, bad books is legion. But how is it to be
helped ? The demand calls for the supply and the supply increases
the demand. The monster grows upon what feeds it. The age of
sumptuary laws and of fetters for the press has passed and is never
to return. A fair field and a free fight is all we can ask, nor do we
.fear. Light puts darkness to flight; Truth must prevail at last. It
is not to be supposed that Solomon meant there should be an end to
book making. The writer of this introductory notice is constrained
at least to recommend another book. Not a volume upon war or
politics, but " THE HOUSEKEEPER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA," of twenty thou-
sand practical receipts. This work has been carefully prepared by a
Christian lady who has had ample experience. She is practically
acquainted with good housekeeping, and labored for a number of
years as a missionary in a distant land. Among all the works that
have fallen under our observation, Mrs. Suddoth's seems to us de-
cidedly the best. It is practical, easily understood and calculated to
do much good. The style is not ambitious, there is no attempt to
walk on stilts, nor to conceal thought, or the want of it, by fine writ-
ing. The aim throughout is to do good, such good as a mature, in-
telligent and pious lady would desire to do. The volume treats of
" The beauties of a well-ordered home, its influence. The family
relation. The Christian mother's influence. The Bible, the fireside
pleasure. Comforts of home. Table conversation. The mother
and the wife, her sphere, duty to servants, neighbors and church.
Her influence not reckoned in time. Her compensation in eter-
nity."
The writer gives this introductory notice as a labor of love, be-
cause of his esteem for the Christian character of the author, and be-
cause of the noble purpose for which the volume is offered to the
public, hoping that it will find a place in thousands of families, es-
pecially on this side of oar continent, in the homes of our mountains
and valleys, where everything is yet in a f onning state, and where
the foundations of future greatness should be wisely laid and firmly
10 INTRODUCTORY ESSAY.
established in good family government and on sound principles, so
that we may hope for the virtue and high culture of the generations
to come.
The subject treated of is indeed an old one, but never more im-
portant than in our day. It is an old but still a sweet saying that
awakens a response in many hearts, " There is no place like home."
However far our prodigal sons may wander, their hearts " untrav-
elled "' always turn to the home of the days of childhood's inno-
cence with a warmth that nothing can altogether chill. There they
feel sure of a welcome if all the world frowns upon them. They will
not believe that the door of the home of their early childhood's holy
hours can ever be shut against them. It is simply impossible to
overstate the influence of a well-regulated home, nor is it easy to
overestimate the influence of order, neatness and good cooking in
making a happy home. Not a few of the ills that afflict both the
body and the mind of mankind, and I must say also not a few of the
sins and crimes of man, are fairly to be attributed to a disorderly, un-
tidy home to bad cooking and slovenly housekeeping. The good
God does indeed give us plenty of food, but alas ! many of our cooks
are sent by the devil. It is marvellous that so simple an art as that
of really good cooking and clean housekeeping is so little under-
stood and practiced among us. We live by bread, but most usu-
ally upon bread not half baked just such as the prophet called
Ephraim's cake a cake not turned, burnt on one side and raw on
the other, and the end thereof is moroseness dyspepsia. If I were
a Lycurgus I should not be content with compulsory education in
letters, but should require our girls to take lessons in cooking and
housekeeping before they graduate from our schools to become
wives and mothers.
The world-famed Humboldt said, " The finest fruit earth holds
up to its Maker is a finished man." The great Napoleon once said,
" What France most needs is mothers." Every state wants real,
true, honest, honorable, finished men, and the first requisite for such
men is healthy, well-finished wives intelligent Christian mothers.
France did need and does now need the right sort of mothers, but it
is equally true of every other nation, and most of all is it true of Re-
publican America, whose sovereign is the people themselves, and
in our new states most of all, where society is in a forming condi-
tion, and where the foundation-stone of the Church and State is the
family. It is the Divine plan that society should grow out of the
family. Every age and country is in proof that the home fireside is
the greatest educational institution on earth. Its influence, more
than any other, gives shape and coloring to the earthly and eternal
destinies of mankind. In the nursery " the black spot " is to be
wrung out of the human heart. At the family altar, hard by the
INTRODUCTORY ESSAY. It
hearthstone, the evil one is to be burned and cast out " They that
rock the cradle rule the world."
The mind of human beings at birth is not a blank sheet of pa-
per. Somehow or other there is something on it as if written with
invisible ink, that the least exposure to the heat of external life is
sure to develop. This something may be called by the ugly name
of original sin, or any other name you please. You may account for
it by creationism, or traducianism, or any other theory, but still it is
there. And hence, " 'Tis education makes the man." For what-
ever may be said of the hereditary principle, it is founded on fact
and nature. Every other part and faculty of man, even if the
mind is a blank paper at our birth, is stamped with hereditary ten-
dencies and peculiarities ; and these tendencies are transmitted ca-
pabilities for good and for evil. Is the offspring of a good horse or
dog likely to be good ? Why is it not equally true of the child of a
good man, and still more of a good woman ? And if the parents are
distinguished for any special ability, there is a strong probability that
their children will inherit something of it, or at least that it will be
called out by their education, if they receive one worthy of the chil-
dren of such parents. Folly and crime are sure, however, to weaken
the powers of any race or nation, or of any part of it. This illustra-
tion is beautifully and truly applied somewhere in Kingsley's " An-
cient Regime."
The first paths trodden by the child may be scratched and
crooked, or plain and smooth, but certainly in most cases his aged
steps will be taken in seeking a return to them. An eccentric cler-
gyman and wit of England, who lived about one hundred years ago,
that I would rather not name lest some one should go to reading his
works and get from them more poison than honey, says in his own
way, " I dare say, good folks, you have all heard of animal spirits,
as how they are transfused from father to son. Now this is not so
inconsiderable a thing as many of you may think it. Take my word
for it, that nine parts in ten of a man's sense or of his nonsense, his
successes and miscarriages in this world, depend upon the motions
and activity, and the different tracks and trains you put them into ;
so that when they are once set agoing, whether right or wrong, 'tis
not a half-penny matter away they go cluttering like hey-go mad ;
and by treading the same steps over and over again, they presently
make a road of it as plain and as smooth as a garden walk, which,
when they are once used to, the devil himself, if he should wish
sometimes to do it, shall not be able to drive them off it."
Men may complain (for the most part unjustly} as much as they
judge comports with their dignity, about mothers-in-law and the ex-
pense and trouble of housekeeping, as if they knew anything about
it, but it is the will of heaven that the society of women is a necessity
12 INTRODUCTORY ESSAY.
of national as well as of personal existence, both physically and mor-
ally. It 's an ancient Hebrew proverb that " God always blesses a
family or household through its women." If man fell from his high
estate by a woman, it is through the same woman he is raised to a
higher one. If a man discovered America, it was a woman that in-
spired him and equipped the voyage. No matter who it is that ex-
ecutes a great purpose, he was born, nursed and trained by a wo-
man. The family is an institution founded by the Creator, and by
Him constituted the greatest university on earth for molding human
destinies. Nor can the divine laws be improved. It is His will that
the wedded lamp be lighted at his altar and burn brightly and cheer-
fully, and that children should come and grow up under its benign
beams that our sons may be trees of righteousness, well grown in
their youth, and our daughters be as corner-stones polished after the
similitude of a palace. He is then an enemy to God and man who
discourages marriage, or seeks to corrupt society by weakening the
bonds of the family which God has joined together. As the child is
father to the man, a first question is, what then shall be the manner
of the child ? And the answer depends on the place, circumstances
and earliest training of the child. Plato, in his book of the laws, says
that he who is about to be a good man in anything whatever, ought
immediately from childhood to begin to practice, even when engaged
in playful as well as serious pursuits, the very things suited to the
particular object he has in view. That is, the child should be taught
what he is to do when he becomes a man. And there is great wis-
dom in the Hebrew custom and of other people also, in teaching
every boy some trade, no matter how rich the parents may be, by
which in case of need he could make an honest living.
The home, the school-room and the house of worship, and alas !
the streets, with all their sounds and sights, make our children what
they are. The home, however humble, is the root that feeds the
whole life. The education of children is like the nurture of trees.
It begins with feebleness, its growth is gradual and slow, but is al-
ways going on. Frosts may nip the sprout, and snow-storms come
on the sapling, sunshine and tempests rock the growing oak, but
from the acorn comes the monarch of the forest. The growth or
education of children, physically, mentally and religiously, is always
by degrees, and everything around them is an educator. The tidi-
ness or sloven linen of the room where they are born, the landscape
from the window on which they first gaze, and the pictures on the
walls, and the hooks whose pictures and letters their eyes first trace
out, men, animals and things the whole world of nature and art is
concerned in and actually engaged to give them lessons. They may
not all receive the honors of graduation at the high school or univer-
sity, but they all graduate from the parental hearth and nursery. It
INTRODUCTORY ESSAY. 13
is there the precious metal is first molded into the shape which may
afterwards be rasped and polished, but cannot be recast. There the
lines are traced on a pliable nature that will become more enduring
than if sculptured on marble. The lessons of our earliest home are
wrought into the very structure of the immortal mind. The heart of
the little one nestled in a mother's arms is a daguerreotype plate that
receives whatever image is first cast upon it, but unlike the picture
on the artist's plate, the living heart grows larger and stronger, but
always carries on it the first impressions. They are the most dis-
tinct and lasting. The tiniest leaves of the forest, of ages so long
ago that we know not their date, have left their impressions upon the
granite rocks. So with smiles or frowns, or vows that may have been
carelessly uttered, and with the scenes enacted in the family circle
they sink into the soul of childhood, though apparently at the time
taking no notice of them, and yet their influence may be traced upon
its every fibre forever afterwards, as if written with a pen of iron or
the point of a diamond.*
It was the mother's example and lessons of social philosophy,
and experimental divinity that molded the character of George
Washington. And John Quincy Adams says : " It is due to grati-
tude and nature that I should acknowledge and avow that such as I
have been, whatever it was, such as I am, whatever it is, and such
as I hope to be in all futurity, must be ascribed under providence tc
the precepts, prayers and example of my mother." Similar, strong
and beautiful, are the tributes of John Randolph, of Roanoke, and of
Andrew Jackson, to the influence of their mothers. " God bless
mothers."
W. A. SCOTT.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
*See " The Giant Judge," Samson, by the -writer of this Introduction.
PREFACE
IN the preparation of the ILLUSTRATED AMERICAN HOME BOOK, OR
HOUSEKEEPER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA of more than 20,000 receipts (all prac-
tical and tested), no expense, no labor, no research, or investigation
of the culinary archives (both foreign and domestic) has been spared,
while the arena of successful housekeeping has been quietly and
thoroughly looked into from the standpoint of many years' practical
experience, from closely observing the management of model house-
keepers, both on this continent and abroad, many of whom have
kindly contributed a number of original, invaluable receipts, thus
augmenting those of the indefatigable author, not only from
Europe and Australia, but from intelligent foreign residents in Africa,
Turkey, Asia Minor, India, China, Arabia, Brazil, Columbia, Peru,
Chili, Mexico, Sandwich Islands, the East and West Indies, all
the South and Central Americas, and other portions of the world,
which, in a culinary and remedial point of view, are above price.
I (the author) have lived in several portions of China, have been
in both the Indies, and have been in nearly every portion of the
Union, canvassing for these receipts, but from whatever standpoint
I have looked upon life and from many years' practical experience,
my scope has been that of a philosophical, quiet- thinking, utilitarian
woman ; believing that by this mode only the true alchemy of good
housekeeping could be found, the genuine domestic philosopher's
stone discovered.
I have added many simple, yet valuable domestic receipts, for
whose remedial, utilitarian value I can vouch and which can be used
with impunity until medical advice can or cannot be obtained.
These receipts are adapted to all climates and latitudes, to hotels as
well as restaurant keepers. In families it directs in sickness, the
nursery, diseases of children, etc., while the orchard, garden, the
dairy, the poultry and farm yards, the laundry, toilet, etc., have not
been overlooked, besides thousands of other practical receipts, which
are above price to housekeepers, which can be referred to at any
time, consulted at once as a judicious friend, an able counsellor in
cases of emergency. It is a work well worth the comprehensive
name it bears THE ILLUSTRATED AMERICAN HOME BOOK, OR
HOUSEKEEPER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA.
PREFACE. 15
The introduction to the work is written by Rev. W. A. Scott, D.
D., L. L. D., whose experience and well-known views on the subject
of home and its various influences are too well known to need repe-
tition here.
In the preparation of this useful and valuable book, my interest
has never for a moment flagged. It has been indeed to me a labor
of love, for my thoughts have rapidly pressed forward to the time
when the book will not only be hailed and welcomed as a friend and
able counsellor and adviser in the many cases of emergency and
doubt in households, when dishes or meals must be prepared at
once, or remedies applied as with telegraph quickness until the medi-
cal healing man is sent for and arrives, which in many sparsely pop-
ulated and newly settled portions of the country is hard to be ob-
tained and often impossible, for the medical profession must have
something to support it; it cannot subsist on stones, nor exist by
breathing the air, no matter how exhilarating or wholesome ; unless
there is constant fuel applied to the fires of vitality, it will soon be re-
duced to ashes, the hearthstone grow cold, domestic cheer be
silenced, and the voices of song be heard no more as in many other
important professions.
The receipts and suggestions for housekeeping are suited to
the cottage as well as to the palace. The wife of the poor man
working for his daily bread, will find many directions for preparing
cheap and savory dishes for her family, as well as simple directions
for taking care of them when sick and out of the reach of medical
advice. The rich, with unlimited means, will find directions for pre-
paring the most luxurious dishes, and many valuable suggestions for
getting up dishes for the sick and helpless invalid, which of all luxu-
ries I consider the greatest a happiness so closely allied to heaven
that it seems scarcely to find a lodgment on earth, and surely none
but the pure in heart can testify to what it is ; for it descended from
regions of love, and dwells in the bosom of those who are closely
allied to Him (who was self-annihilation) who has pronounced them
blessed, who aided the helpless poor, visited the sick, clothed the
destitute, took care of the stranger, fed the hungry, etc., as doing
these to Him in person. Because they can do no more, even a cup
of cold water given in His name does not go unrewarded, and even
a willing mind is accepted of Him who is a discerner of the thoughts
and intents of the heart
I do not believe that it was the design of an always benefi-
cent Providence that there should be so much suffering in the world,
but He has made man a free agent, endowed him with reason and
not without some foresight into worldly matters, for the wise man
tells us that the " prudent man forseeth the evil and hideth himself."
But good men often fall into the hands of wicked, deceitful men, as
l6 PREFACE.
treacherous as the ocean wave, believing that all is well, and they sink
with the first billow that surges them. When these misfortunes come
there is always treachery, or extravagance, or indolence, want of en-
ergy somewhere, and these misfortunes are then entailed often on
several generations, till some one among them throws off the fetters
that bind him or her and rises superior to circumstances, which
often causes a shaking among the dry bones of the whole family
compact ; each rises in full armor to contend with stern fortune and
overcomes, yet not without many noble and honorable scars, of
which they are not ashamed, standing on the pinacle of worldly wealth.
Yet this remains seldom longer than with the third generation. But
this will be discussed in another and proper place. To return
again to the culinary receipts. I know that it is hard to prevail on
cooks to follow the written directions of a receipt, and think that by
simply using the ingredients without any proper proportions,
that is all that is requisite, and hence the many failures in good
cooking. For bad cooking is the most extravagant thing in the
world, you lose your material, your fuel, the hire and sustenance of
your cook, and then there is great outlay of bad temper on the part
of the mistress, unless exceedingly good and amiable, and possess-
ing a large share of that important, cardinal Christian virtue which
"suffereth long and is kind." Bad temper makes inroads on health.
The husband is disappointed in his meal and leaves, if in a city, for
some place in which he can get something to suit his appetite, then
the cigar and social glass must needs follow, his home in a measure
given up, the spirit of himself and wife both wounded, which the
wise man asks " who can bear? " Now this is extravagance again,
but his forsaking his home may not stop here, it may lead to the
gambling table, and other vices which will surely follow in its train.
For extravagance opens the door for every evil, whether social,
moral or intellectual, and which is so often entailed on his helpless
ones. But there is a remedy for many of these ills. So, my sisters,
let you and inexperienced housekeepers come, let us reason together
for a while on this subject. Should you be a novice in house-
keeping, and the important matter of conferring and retaining the hap-
piness of your household, just take your cooking book, commit the
receipt to memory if not too long, get all the proportions in your
head and adjust everything in your mind as you wish it to be, then
make up the dish in your pantry or kitchen yourself before your girl
or Johnny (for all cooks in this country are either colored girls, or
girls from the " Emerald Isle," or "Johnnies" from the Celestial
country, no matter how long in service), let them see how easy it is
to be done, go at it " right manfully," for the moment your cook
sees that he or she knows more than you do, you cease to be mistress.
If you do not succeed entirely to your satisfaction, prepare the dish
PREFACE. 17
another day, do it with your own hands, or direct, and it will be bet-
ter ; then another the next day, and thus continue daily, you will
soon gain confidence in yourself, as well as your cook, your culinary
lore will soon be greatly enlarged, and in a few years will be a walking
encyclopedia of culinary knowledge, a living magazine, which may be
consulted at all times. Never suffer your husband to be dissatisfied
even with the first meal, or even a dish, without conferring with him
directly, watch his likes, and prepare by varying the dishes of which he
seems most fond. Let him never have a dish before him that will
offend his eye, olfactories, or palate. Pleasantly, but without seem-
ing to, watch the expression of his face while partaking of his food.
On the subject of bread making, butter making, and coffee, and in-
numerable subjects, I have treated in their proper place, which may
be consulted at pleasure.
Let the approbation of your husband be the great design of
your life, to keep it, for with your maiden simplicity you gained it, let
him not realize, when brought in direct contact with your disposition
and principles (after the man of God pronounced you one) the senti-
ment of the poet, " 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view."
Let these be to him like pure untried gold, that they become purer,
more refined, when tried in the crucible of domestic life, and brighter
from the abrasion of the household duties ; though it has been a
yoke, yet was easy and the burden light, and you have not been all
the day idle. I know that your husband will think that he has the
best wife and sweetest home on earth.
Dr. Johnson says, to be happy at home is the ultimate result
of all ambition, the end to which every enterprise and labor tends,
and of which every desire prompts the prosecution. Though man
governs, yet woman reigns, her throne is at the fireside, her seat in
the heart, her empire the world, her household is her sanctuary, her
place of worship and service. Her silver-toned voice, so full of gen-
tleness, tenderness, and sensibility will send back the furious tide
that boils and surges in the veins of her liege lord and master,
soothe and calm down his passion, and stifle and assuage his rage,
by reasoning and prayerful suasion, reduce the crimson tide back
to its natural channel.
Though a man's motto may be "excelsior" yet he may never be able
to go up higher on account of the domestic clogs that may hang to
him in the way of a thriftless wife. Whenever he attempts to rise he
falls back on account of their weight.
If woman has truly learned to keep house (for it is the "house-
hold surroundings which affect most largely the happiness or the
misery of domestic life), how to repair clothing, which can be altered,
renovated or modernized, learns how to turn everything to the best
advantage, and to make her supplies go farthest and longest, to
1 8 PREFACE.
manage her children and servants quietly, appreciates the impor-
tance of system, order and tidiness, then her home will be what it
ought to be, her husband will not go to the club-house, gaming-table,
nor quaff the wine cup, nor her children wander in the streets, for
their training is one of social respectability and earnest for business
success, and in whatever positions may be allotted to them, one of
efficiency and usefulness.
The time has come when all girls and boys should have some
business habits, for the wheel of fortune is ever revolving, and no
one knows at what turn he or she may go down. It may be by fire,
extravagance, speculation, or through the treachery of a partner, and
no one can tell in what form misfortunes may come.
No girl should think of throwing herself on the world for a sup-
port nor quartering herself upon relatives, and no parent knows or
can tell at what straits a daughter may arrive in the course of a
lifetime. I once saw a lady, who my mother told me had at her
father's table a gold coffee and tea service, was educated at the first
female school in the land, her father owned leagues of land on one
of our famous rivers, had her French governess with her at home,
the house and grounds superb (for I have often been in them), and
everything that makes a home desirable was hers. She married
wealthy, and in addition to her own grand estate her husband left her a
large fortune, for he lived but a short time after their marriage ; her son
was also left with princely possessions ; in a few years the widow mar-
ried well again, a few years rolled on, when her husband, through the
treachery of his partner, lost all, died of a broken heart, leaving
her six little children to support. She did not even know how to do
the simplest things. Her neighbors helped and encouraged her,
still it amounted to nothing, when the mother and daughter were
both lost to society, her thousand pounds of fine money went with
the general wreck, her eldest son died a pauper. Alas ! I could fill
a volume of similar cases if need be, that have come under my im-
mediate observation, all for want of the proper domestic training, to
learn to know how to do everything, for whether married or single,
we know not what a day may bring forth.
A great deal is said and written about not being able to get em-
ployment, which is true, but why are persons notable to get work?
Simply because they are not competent to fill the places for which
there is a constant demand. Thousands could get places, with good
salaries in elegant houses with board and lodgings, and with the
thanks of their employers, were it known that their characters were
good and they competent for their business, in the way of house
girls, cooks, chambermaids, nurses and seamstresses. How many
thousands of some persons' daughters for want of the means to
house and feed and clothe them, sink prematurely into their graves
PREFACE. 19
through the wiles of seducers fiends in human shape, that walk the
earth, and whose very breath contaminates the air of heaven. Girls
that would never have done wrong, had they not been driven to in-
famy by the stress of poverty which would not have been, had they
possessed knowledge enough of some calling to have saved them
from such a dire calamity. Let every mother make note of this,
for this great evil must alone be remedied by mothers, for it is a duty
they owe to their own children, to society, to a common humanity,
to bring up their daughters to be competent to do anything, whether
in the capacity of chambermaids, dressmakers, washerwomen, as
nurses or cooks. A good nurse will command from two to six or
eight dollars a day for the sick when it is known that they are fully
competent, faithful, trustworthy, conscientious, with the necessary
tact and intelligence.
If girls were taught how to gain a living, our large asylums if
not entirely closed, would be greatly contracted, vice, crime and dis-
ease, which seem to come together as by inheritance, would in a
great degree, cease. Immense sums of money which go to support
institutions for foundlings and paupers, would or might be appropri-
ated to better purposes, and for the general good of the country.
Let every girl learn some trade or housework, as though she might
soon become poor, then she will have a life insurance in fulf, that
she will never come to want unless through sickness. Then will the
moral desolation of our large cities cease, their waste places be built
up, and the wilderness of sin, misery and sorrow, no longer blos-
som as the rose.
Let the great, noble-minded, large-hearted, benevolent, intel-
lectual women of our thrice blessed and happy country, with their
example, and open purses,- step forward and dignify labor, raise as best
they can the fallen, and stay the wavering, tottering steps of those
ready to fall into the vortex of infamy Let the wealthy show by
their own household and daughters that labor is no disgrace, for by
it they will be much more likely to keep their wealth. For they will
know how to keep who have kept their homes. What a blessed
guarantee knowledge would be in such cases.
Young men and women would marry, for then they would not
be afraid to do so, lest one should hang as a dead weight and con-
sume his hard earnings in doing nothing, or in hired wasteful help
nor the wife on the other hand of her husband being a spendthrift
and bringing her to want.
I once knew an old lady who had been immensely wealthy and
was then in comfortable circumstances, but she often said that her
grand-children would serve the grand-children of those in her em-
ployment, and which did come to pass.
The husband should find in his wife and home a friend and sweet
retreat, where he should find a gentle welcome, soothing sympathy,
2O PREFACE.
by whose sweet converse his cares will be beguiled and form a
striking contrast to the scenes which he has just left behind, the air
of peace, love and order towards him. Who can fix a bound to
woman's influence and responsibility ? When we are poor, a little
kindness, even in the way of recognition by a noble woman, goes a
long way, when we have been forgotten and passed over by so
many.
In referring to knowing how to wait on the sick, I once visited a
sick lady, a neighbor, who was suffering very much from a blister.
1 asked the cause. She told me that the " doctor had told her
daughter that as soon as the blister was taken off to apply a warm
poultice, which we did, and which was to be renewed once in so
many hours, until his return, but it stuck so fast that her daughter
could not get it off, and was waiting for the physician to come tq
show her how to remove it." I at once asked to see it, but to my
great astonishment, I could not even raise the edges. I quickly
asked the daughter of what she made the poultice, to which she
replied that her " mother told her how, that it was made of flour and
boiling water." I then called for some milk, which I warmed and
applied to the horny edges of the plaster, which by much trouble
and care I softened and removed from the suffering patient. Then
1 had* to pick out the pieces of paste that remained on the blister,
and made one of a soothing nature, oiled the edges and applied,
permitting the daughter to see me make and apply it. The poor
patient was soon asleep, for she had been suffering for hours. Now
the mother and daughter were both intelligent persons, in the com-
mon acceptation of the term, but neither knew anything about sick-
ness. The mother had never been sick before, but died from this
illness, and many of this large family died in a few years, as well as
the daughter referred to.
I shall ever remember the expression of the face of a sick officer
of the Union army (a West Pointer), when he turned almost implor-
ingly to his elegant wife and asked her to make a powder he had pro-
cured into such a number of pills, her reply was that she had never
made a pill and did not know how to do it, and that he ought to
have got the druggist to make them for him ; he said that he was so
sick that he forgot it. " Take the powder back and get him to do
it." He said, beseechingly, that he was too sick to go out on the
street, and might fall. I replied that I would make them for him, for
which he seemed so thankful.
The great way to supereminent success in housekeeping can be
summed up in two words, indomitable perseverance, which means
accurate critical observation, persistent action, and a comprehensive
judgment, and with God's blessing no one need fear a failure in the
housekeeping enterprise.
GOOD WORDS.
HEALTH IN YOUTH Late hours, irregular habits, want of attention
to diet, are common causes with most young men, and these gradu-
ally, but at first imperceptably, undermine the health and lay the
foundation for various forms of disease in after life. It is a very dif-
ficult thing to make young persons comprehend this. They fre-
quently sit up late as twelve, one or two o'clock without experien-
cing any ill effects ; they go without a meal to-day, and to-morrow
eat to repletion, with only temporary inconvenience. One night
they will sleep three or four hours, the next nine or ten ; or one
night, in their eagerness to get into some agreeable company, they
will take no food at all ; and the next will perhaps eat a hearty sup-
per and perhaps go to bed upon it. These, with various other irreg-
ularities are common to the majority of young men, and are, as just
stated the cause of much bad health in mature life. Indeed, nearly
all the shattered constitutions with which too many are cursed, are
the result of a disregard to the plainest precepts of health in early
life.
WORDS. Soft words soften the soul. Angry words are fuel to
the flames of wrath and make it blaze more fiercely. Kind words
make other people good natured. Cold words freeze people, and
hot words scorch them, and bitter words make them bitter, and
wrathful words make them wrathful. There is such a rush of all
other kinds of words in our days that it seems desirable to give kind
words a chance among them. There are vain words,_ and idle
words, and hasty words, and spiteful words, and silly words, and
empty words, and profane words, and boisterous words, and warlike
words. Kind words produce their own image in men's souls and a
beautiful image it is. They smooth and quiet the hearer. They
shame him out of his sour and morose, and unkind feelings. We
have not yet begun to use kind words in such an abundance as they
ought to be used.
A WIFE'S POWER. The power of a wife for good or evil is irre-
sistible. Home must be the seat of happiness, and must it be forever
unknown? A good wife is to a man wisdom, and courage, and
strength and endurance. A bad one is confusion, weakness, discom-
fiture and despair. No condition is seldom hopeless when the
wife possesses firmness, discipline and economy. There is no out-
ward prosperity which can counteract indolence, extravagance and
folly at home. No spirit can long endure bad domestic influence.
22 GOOD WORDS.
Man is strong, but his heart is not adamant. He delights in enterprise
and action ; but to sustain him he needs a tranquil mind and a
whole heart. He needs his moral force in the conflicts of the
world. To recover his equanimity and composure, home must be to
him a place of repose, of peace, of cheerfulness, of comfort; and
his soul renews its strength again, and goes forth with fresh vigor to
encounter the labor and troubles of life. But if at home he finds no
rest, and is there met with a bad temper, sullenness, or gloom, or is
assailed by discontent or complaint, hope vanishes and he sinks into
despair.
OUR CHILDREN.
MENTAL EDUCATION. It is far better in an excitable child with a
large brain and a healthy body, to keep it back in its education than
to encourage the exercise of its memory in learning verses and other
showy feats of memory. A dull child may of course be allowed to
go as far as it will,- and may even be encouraged in every possible
way, but many brains are not so early developed, that the contrary
system is necessary, and all books and even music lessons must be
postponed, until the strength of the body is confirmed by constant
exercise and fresh air. It is the vice of the present day to attempt
to force the intellect by early cultivation, and hundreds of children
are yearly made more mediocre in their mind than they otherwise
would be by overstraining the infantile faculties. For knowledge to
be profitable, must be assimilated with the developing mind, and
this may be one cause of our not having the great calibre of intellect
that was found among our revolutionary ancestors, for the mind, like
every other living thing, becomes dwarfed by the forcing process. In
most cases a child ought to know his letters at five, but beyond this
everything else may be safely left to a future day; and many first
rate characters, endowed with the highest attainments are formed
upon a foundation much later than this.
SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES.
The simplicity of the primitive ages has been an object of par-
ticular admiration, and it delights the imagination to picture men
living upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, and
desiring no other beverages to slake their thirst, but such as foun-
tains and rivers supply. Thus we are told that the ancient inhabi-
tants of Argus lived on pears principally ; that the Arcadians revelled
on acorns ; and the Athenians on figs. This of course was the Gold-
en Age, before ploughing began, and when mankind enjoyed all
SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES. 23
kinds of plenty without having to earn their bread by the sweat of
their brow. This delightful period, however, could not last forever,
and the earth became barren, and continued unfruitful until Ceres
came, and taught the art of sewing, with several other useful inven-
tions. The first she taught was Triptolemus, who communicated his
instructions to his countrymen, the Athenians, whence the art was
carried into Achia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first
grain that was used, and the invention of bread making is ascribed
to Pann. The use of fire as an instrument of cooking must have
been coeval with this invention of bread, which being the most nec-
essary of all kinds of food, was frequently used in a sense so com-
prehensive as to include both meat and bread. It was by the Greeks
baked under the ashes. In the primitive ages it was deemed unlaw-
ful to eat flesh. When men began to depart from their primitive
habits, the flesh of swine was the first that was eaten. For several
ages it was pronounced unlawful to kill or slaughter an ox, from an
estimate of their great value in assisting men to cultivate the
ground ; nor was it usual to kill young animals from a sentiment
which considered it cruel to take away the life of those that had
scarcely tasted the joys of existence. At this period no cooks were
kept, and we learn from Homer that his ancient heroes prepared
and dressed their own victuals. Ulysses excelled in lighting a fire,
and Achilles was an adept in turning the spit. Art of living in every
civilized country is pretty much the same. The instruments of cook-
ing must, in a great degree, bear a striking resemblance to each
other.
THE BEAUTY OF A ^'ELL-ORDERED HOME.
In training the young, the beauty of a well-ordered home is be-
yond computation, for the mother presides over it. The first step
that offers the sweet incense in domestic bliss on the domestic altar,
for the happiness of those called her family, and kept perpetually
burning from the fervent emanations of her unselfish, self-immolat-
ing heart, or if her heart be wrung with anguish, she is still the same
faithful being, knows no weariness nor abatement of interest in the
welfare of her loved ones. It is in this home that parents can hold
counsel and consider what measures are best for the government of
their posterity. In this domain children can gather and gambol in the
very exuberance of their young life in unmolested joyousness. It is
here, after toiling through the day, the husband finds rest for his
wearied frame, with his little ones full of frolic and glee around him.
He feels that it is a sacred retreat, is thankful for his exemplary and
affectionate wife, and bows his head in gratitude for his blessings.
For there is nothing like a cheerful, happy home.
24 THE BEAUTY OF A WELL-ORDERED HOME.
The mother teaches her children that employment is dignified, and
should be sought, as it strengthens the mind and body, and matures
the character that will shine bright and lovely in moral excellence
and active beauty. "The Author of every good and perfect gift "
gave us six days to perform our own work, and the seventh day for
rest. He whose tender mercies are over all His works would not
have so ordained, had He not known that labor was best for us, as it
would enable us to resist the temptations of our great adversary,
who ever finds mischief for idle hands to perform. Teach your
children to work for some good, let it be ever so lowly, cherish some
flower, that labor is noble and holy, that there is a dread responsi-
bility hanging over their existence, that God created them in His own
image, and stamped on both their soul and body the sense of
duty.
We, as mothers, should teach our daughters the duty and practice
of self-denial in some little things, in order to give to the poor around
them, to administer a little to their comfort and happiness in sick-
ness and in health. Should bring before them and the other child-
ren the sin of being wasteful, that such and such things will make a
nice soup or pudding for such a one who is sick, and that they may
assist in making the dish and you will go with them to take it, and
that the poor on their beds of sickness, often crave things which
they are unable to get. I have seen the face of little ones lighted
up with joy, and their eyes sparkle with gladness at such teaching,
and these instructions will be more prized than if you had given
an empire of wealth while the mantle of a mother's virtues
have fallen on them, " for blessed is he that considereth the poor."
The duty to the poor should be one of the first lessons to the young.
We should teach them never to deny bread or charity at our own door,
that their means, be it ever so small can do some good, we should
instill in their young hearts the love of good deeds, the love of hap-
piness arising from having done a good action, of their duty to God,
their neighbor and all mankind. Every person whose wants are
brought to our knowledge is our neighbor.
OUR PARLORS AND OUR CHILDREN.
OUR PARLORS are designed and expected to be always in readiness
to receive visitors, where the dim of domestic matters will not
reach their ears while the pleasure of entertainment goes on. The
present mode of keeping the parlors dark in small country towns
plays well into the hands of housekeepers, who perform the work of
cleaning once a week. Where no child is admitted, but by a chance
call, and to the children of the family it is almost a ("terra incogni-
OUR PARLORS AND OUR CHILDREN. 25
ta") land unknown to them. But I do not think that this should be
the case. How often do mothers or an older sister lead out of this
consecrated place the unfortunate little or larger member of the
household, who had seized the opportunity of going to see the pic-
tures, works of art, and to smell the sweet flowers from beautiful
vases brought from distant lands, and to handle the curiosities on
the etagere. All of this is perfectly natural to them, and even to
grown people, and handle the large and elegantly gilt bible, with its
gay bindings, and other books on the centre table, to trace out the
beautiful figures of the rich parlor carpets, and the handsome de-
signs of the albumens embroidered by their mother, and sometimes
they may mount the piano stool and begin to thump on the keys of
the piano, or to pull the harp strings. Now all of this could be
prevented by not making these things strange to them, by letting
them go in with the older members of the family at pleasure. It
would be no more a treat for them to enter it than any other room
of the house. In doing this their manners would become more
refined and easy, and there would not be that shyness and awk-
wardness that we often see in mothers. Entering the parlor with care
and grace speaks volumes in the mother's praise. Mothers or the
older members of the family should explain all the family or histori-
cal pictures, and where everything in the parlor is made, if at home or
in foreign lands, to their eager minds, listening ears, and bright,
sparkling, and soul-drinking eyes. Let them see and feel that noth-
ing is too good for them, a spirit of enquiry is created, and they are
consequently fitted to fill any place in society. For the hearts of
children are pliant and tender as wax to receive the impressions made
on them. In the beginning God designed woman as a help meet
for man, to divide his cares and to lighten his toils, and not as a
glittering toy or an expensive luxury, or a mere appendage to his
household, or to add a long list to his expenses. No ; the whole
domestic economy, as it existed in the divine mind, goes to show
that the only true happiness realized in this relation is a mutual de-
pendence on each other, a love unknown but to the pure in heart, a
union of kindred spirits where each strives to lighten the burden and
heat of each day for the other. Yet the entire happiness of the
home circle, as well as the present and future welfare of the "little
ones" is totally dependent upon the management of the woman, the
mother. How very careful ought she to be in dealing out to them
the good things of her house in the way of brandied fruits, wines,
juleps, cordials, brandied and wine sauces, etc. Drunkards have
been heard to say that their taste for strong drink was excited by
these things, the flame of desire kindled by her own hands which
often leads and entails misery on her sons and others in this world
26 OUR PARLORS AND OUR CHILDREN.
and eternal condemnation for them in that to come. Child-
Ten have been known to break the eighth section of the decalogue
to obtain the wherewith to appease the demands of the appetite
thus engendered and cultivated, and that even from the mother's
purse, which leads her to break another commandment by thinking
hardly or openly accusing her innocent servant of the crime ; how
could she think that the vice the sin was committed by the children
she had so carefully trained, by the blood which flowed from her
own. No ; this dishonest act could not lie at their door. It was
done by her faithless domestic, who in all probability is dismissed in
disgrace, and sent to seek a home and employment where she could
find it, and where this accusation is not known, yet she appeals to
her Maker with all the satisfaction of an approving innocent con-
science, "Thou God, seest me !" Where does this fault lie?" No
where but with the mother. For to her is given to sow the seed in
the child's mind, which springs forth, first the " blade, then the corn,
and then the full corn in the ear," her example determines the steps
of her child towards virtue or vice, his reeling footsteps, his frenzied
brain, his oath-emitting lips, his treatment to her, to his family, and his
equalizing himself with the brutes or even below them, or she may
by her example, elevate him to the highest standard of
moral excellence, as a dutiful son, a worthy citizen, a kind husband
and father, a noble patriot, an honor to his country and a blessing
to himself and to the world. This has been done, and mothers can
perform the glorious work again, and continue to repeat it till time
shall be no more. But mothers often leave their children to the care
and guidance, and at the mercy of the nurse, who may teach them
many things which they should not know. And why do they do
this? That they may attend the theatre or other places of amuse-
ment with certain friends who are going, or to mingle in the pleasure
of the ball room for a few hours at most, her face blooming with ar-
tificial roses, her hair resplendent with gems, her garments radiant
with real or false diamonds, and decked with jewelry flashing with
stones, brought from the most distant countries, from the bottom of
the ocean, or from the lowest explored stratum of earth's bosom ;
leaving her little ones in piteous sobs, which perhaps to soothe, the
nurse who feels no other interest in them than the amount and pay-
ment of her wages, gives them drugs, thus relieves herself of what
she considers a bore, or looks upon them with a threat of vengeance if
a hint of what she has done is breathed by them. Yet while this is
going on, the mother's influence is weakened, the ground into which
good seed should be sown is preoccupied by the tares of wicked ex,-
ample sown by .a hireling and an enemy.
LOCATION OF A HOUSE. 27
LOCATION OF A HOUSE.
LOCALITY, ASPECT, AND PLAN. In choosing a situation for a house,
the builder ought to consider very carefully, all the objections and
advantages that may be urged for or against each spot proposed to
him. To those who have lived in richly wooded districts, the sea air
is a complete panacea for all their ills, not only because it is bracing
from its saline particles, which are chiefly useful to the citizen, but
because its air is free from the emanations of vegetation. But to thff
dweller in exposed situations, sea air is often prejudicial, and instead
of affording the relief to the ailments to which it is obnoxious, it ag-
gravates them tenfold, unless he can find a warm and protected spot,
somewhat like the one to which they are acustomed, and some of the
secluded nooks in the interior.
With regard to situation, then, it should be repeated, that a dry
soil is always to be desired, and according to the nature of the dis-
trict, either a high one, or else a moderately sheltered one. Gravel
is desirable as a subsoil in all but very few situations, and even then,
if it is very well drained, but nothing can be worse than a gravel bed
which is locked in by a surrounding basin of clay, without any outlet
for its rainfall. Such a spot is a sponge, constantly accumulating the
elements of disease which are prejudicial, both to man and to some
of the domestic animals, for it is notorious that such a kind of land
is peculiarly fatal to sheep. It is not, therefore, the mere existance
of a gravel bed which makes a spot suited to the habitation of man,
but it also must be well drained, both superficially and in its subsoil,
in order to be fit for his residence. It is astonishing what effect a
small difference in the elevation has upon the salubrity of a particu-
lar spot, A nse of sixteen feet within three hundred yards has been
known to produce an entire change from a relaxing to a bracing air;
this was partly caused by the lower spot being the bottom of a basin
and completely enveloped in foliage, while the higher was compara-
tively free from trees and had a tolerable fall for its surface water and
for its drainage. Whenever there is a fall of ten feet to a running
stream, the drainage in country houses may always be efficiently
carried out, as far as the individual house is concerned, but this is
not the only consideration, for the surrounding fields should always
be well drained, or they will be constantly enveloped in fogs and be-
28 LOCATION OF A HOUSE.
come fertile sources of evil. The side of a hill is not always a heal-
thy spot, unless the herbage is scanty and is free from woods, or
unless the surface water is uninterrupted by a break or drain con-
siderably above the level of the proposed site and carried off in a
different direction. No spot, in most cases, is more suited for a
house than a slight rise or knoll which looks down on all the sur-
rounding land, for here there is no chance for any annoyance from
water courses belonging to other parties ; and malaria arising from
stagnant water. Quickly running streams, so long as they are not
subject to extensive floods, are never in any way injurious and may
be made the means of carrying off all the unhealthy accumulations
of a country residence. But dammed waters of all kinds, unless
there is a good stream through them, especially stagnant ponds,
should be carefully avoided near a house, however ornamental they
may be.
It may be gathered from what has been remarked, that the
writer has a horror of water, and so she has, if in the wrong place.
Water, like fire, is a good friend but a fatal enemy, and should
be as carefully sought for in the one capacity, as it should be es-
chewed in the other. It has already been said that gravel or sand
in certain situations is highly desirable, that is, when well drained,
and with these may be coupled sand-stone or lime-stone subsoils,
chalk' and also primary rocks, these all give good air and some of
them good water ; on the other hand, are high, dry and bracing. In
the high-lands, health beams in every eye, and the step is elastic and
firmer, if not always graceful. But in low districts the cheeks are
pallid, the eye sunken and dull, and the step is inelastic, while the
real heighth is apparently reduced to a stoop which amounts in many
cases to a crouch. Spirits are drank in incredible quantities without
those ill effects which follow their use in more healthfull districts.
Though we have hitherto discussed the presence of water as a foe, it
must now be looked upon as a friend which cannot well be dispensed
with, and whose place, when absent, cannot be supplied by any other
substitute. In some of the most healthy districts in other respects,
water is a desideratum which can scarcely be obtained on any terms
in dry summers, and the want of it is felt as a sore evil by its inhab-
itants, and severe losses often are sustained by them in sheep and
cattle for want of this fluid. Much here will depend upon the pecul-
iar circumstances of the individual, as for instance, his occupation or
pursuits, his family or professional connections ; the facility of ac-
cess or the susceptibility of the neighborhood to his position in
society. The district which will suit one man, may be either too aris-
tocratic or too low for another. The frequent passing of omnibuses
or street cars would be an annoyance to many individuals, while
LOCATION OP A HOUSE. 29
others would not mind it. The same may be said in reference to
railway stations, to which the daily traveler would gladly be near on
account of the mode of conveyance, whilst the bulk of mankind would
dislike its noise and tumult. Neighborhood of manufactories and
mills will be avoided except by those employed about them. If tall
chimneys are seen near the spot which is in contemplation, it is well
to ascertain exactly what they are used for, and whether any noxious
or offensive trades are carried on. In every case the drainage
should be attended to, and it should be ascertained, either that there
is a sufficient culvert near, capable of conveying off the house drain-
age, or that facilities exist for a cess-pool ; where the habitations are
not too high, it is thought that cess-pools are by no means objec-
tionable, that is, provided they can be made at a sufficient distance
from the house, but nevertheless, a well-arranged culvert is always to
be preferred. In those cases, where large culverts are so built that
they have little or no fall, and are never flushed except by storm
water, they are far inferior to a well-built cess-pool ; for as they ac-
cumulate their contents in enormous quantities, and daily receive
fresh additions without passing^ them on, their gaseous emanations
are bound to return through the traps in spite of all the care in the
world in their construction. There is no Alteration to any extent,
(or if any, it is in that way highly injurious to the basement floors of
those houses which are next to the leakage) and consequently the
bulk is not diminished sometimes for weeks or even months together,
that is, as long as there is no rain. In a cess-pool, on the other
hand, a man has the control of his own and is not annoyed by that
of his neighbor, unless the neighborhood is very close, in which case,
as before remarked, these receptacles should be avoided. Recently
made ground should always be suspicious, as it is generally the seat
of a reclaimed marsh, and as such takes many years to be made fit
for human habitation. All filled up ponds are still worse where
their vegetable matter has been burried beneath the surface. Water
comes very high in the list of requisites in all suburban, as in fact in
every other kind of residence. A good well of spring water can sel-
dom be reckoned on, but it should be obtained if possible, but now
companies supply a perfectly pure and wholesome water, which is as
refreshing as it is most agreeable to the palate.
Supposing a plat of ground is offered for sale in a neighborhood
only partly covered ; it will be desirable to ascertain what proba-
bility there is of the remainder being turned into an annoyance,
either in the shape of a factory, a public house, or even in that of a
place of worship, neither of which is a desirable building to have
located in front of one's drawing-room windows. When a garden,
either for flowers or vegetables, is desired, of course the nature of
3O LOCATION OF A HOUSE.
the soil will form an object of inquiry. Lastly, the soil must be ex-
amined in reference to the foundations, which are* sometimes a con-
siderable source of expenditure when the building has commenced.
Good rocks and chalk are excellent for this purpose, especially if the
whole site to be occupied by the house is composed of the same. A
good foundation, therefore, renders a spot so much cheaper than a
bad one.
THE ASPECT. To a certain extent, the choice of aspect is left to
be decided after the purchase of a site ; but not entirely so, because
in many cases of suburban residences the owner is compelled to build
his house in conformity with existing arrangements, if not in a partic-
ular plan, yet with a settled aspect. Here, therefore, he should pause
and consider whether the aspect is a good one; but, for this purpose,
it is right to know what is really good and the reverse. In this way
we have two things to consider : the prevailing objectionable wind
and the sun. In this climate, the wind which we desire most to
avoid is that from the east or north sometimes one and sometimes
the other being the worst, according to the protection afforded by
the nearest mountains or hills; whichever, therefore, is the worst,
neither the back nor the front should be turned that way, but one of
the sides, in which there need be few openings. Again, it is of great
importance to health, especially to that of young children, that they
should have a plenty of sun, especially morning sun ; and, therefore,
a north aspect is not good or cheerful, inasmuch as little sun can be
obtained on that side. Neither is a full south or southwest aspect
very much to be sought after, because here we have too much of a
good thing, and are scorched by the sun's rays ; but a southeastern
view of this luminary is the one which commands all the advantages,
without any drawbacks, and is that which most people would choose,
if they could. In this aspect we have the sun upon the breakfast
table, which is the time when children are benefited most by its rays,
and are rendered happy and cheerful for the rest of the day. The
nursery, therefore, should be turned to this point, if possible ; when
the heat of the summer comes 'there is all the cheerfulness and health
which it affords in the morning, without the sultry heat of the after-
noon. In town this is of a still greater importance than in the
country. This fact has often been proved by comparing a number
of young families on the two sides.
I again repeat, in choosing a house, that the health and comfort
of a family should be of the highest importance ; that the neighbor-
hood of all factories of any kind, producing unwholesome effluvia
and smells, should be strictly avoided. Nither is it well to take a
house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade is carried on,
as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends to increase any existing
irritation of the system.
LOCATION OF A HOUSE. 3 1
The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should
be borne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house
with a south and southeast aspect, is lighter, warmer, dryer, and
consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or northeast.
The close, fetid air which assails us is assigned to the want of light,
and consequently more unhealthy than one facing the north or north-
east. One of the most essential points to be observed in reference
to a house is its "drainage." Bad or defective drainage, as it has
been proved in an endless number of cases, is certain to destroy
health, as the taking of poison. This arises from its injuriously
affecting the atmosphere, thus rendering the air we breathe un-
wholesome and deleterious. Let it be borne in mind that, unless a
house is effectually drained, the health of its inhabitants is sure to
suffer, and they will be susceptible of ague, rheumatism, diarrhoea,
fevers and cholera. An all-important point, that of the water sup-
ply. The value of this necessary article has also been lately more
and more recognized in connection with the question of life and
health, and most houses are well supplied with every convenience
connected with water. Let it, however, be well understood that no
house, however suitable in other respects, can be desirable if this
grand means of health and comfort are in the slightest degree scarce
or impure. No caution in that can be too great to see that it is
pure and good, as well as plentiful ; for, knowing as we do, that not
a single dish of our daily food is prepared without it, the importance
of its influence on the health of the inmates of a house cannot be
over-rated.
VENTILATION is another matter which must not be overlooked. In
a general way, enough air is admitted by the cracks around the doors
and windows ; but if this is not the case, the chimneys will smoke,
and other plans, such as the placing of a plate of finely perforated
zinc or wire gauze in the uppermost part of the window, must be
used. Cold air should never be admitted under the doors, at the
.bottom of a bed-room, unless it be close to the fire or stove, for it
will flow along the floor toward the fire-place, and thus leaving the
foul air in the upper part of the room unpurified, cooling at the same
time, unpleasantly and injuriously, the feet and legs of the inmates.
The* rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth
of the whole income of its occupants, and we are disposed to assent
to this estimate as a general rule.
EVERY HOUSE SHOULD HAVE A BATH-ROOM. What luxury is
superior to a good bath ! Immersing, showering or throwing the
water over the body with the hand, it cheers, soothes, refines and
elevates both soul and body. Keeping the body clean is only dis-
charging our first duty to ourself. It produces such a happy feeling,
THE HUSBAND.
THE HUSBAND.
Custom entitles you to be considered the " lord and master "
over your household ; but do not assume the master and sink the
lord. Remember that noble generosity, forbearance, amiability and
integrity are among the more lordly attributes of man. As a hus-
band, therefore, exhibit the true nobility of man, and seek to govern
your own household by the standard of high moral excellence. A
domineering spirit, a fault-finding petulance, impatience at triflng
delays and the exhibition of unworthy passions at the slightest prov-
ocation can add no laurels to your own lordly brow, impart no sweet-
ness to home and call forth no respect from those by whom you may
be surrounded. It is one tiling to be a master another thing to be
a man. The latter should be the husband's aspiration, for he who
cannot govern himself is illy qualified to govern another.
When once a man has established a home his most important
duties have fairly begun. The errors of youth may be overlooked;
want of purpose, and even of honor, in his earlier days, may be for-
gotten ; but from the moment of his marriage he begins to write his
mdellible history ; not with pen and ink, but by actions by which he
must ever afterwards be reported and judged. His conduct at
home; his solicitude for his family; the training of his children;
his devotion to his wife ; his regard for the great interests of eter-
nity these are the tests by which his worth will ever afterwards be
estimated by all who think or care about him. These will determine
his position while living and preserve his memory when dead. He
uses well or ill the brief space allotted to him, out of alt eternity, to
build up a fame founded on the most solid of foundations private
worth and God and man will judge him accordingly.
HINTS FOR WIVES.
Don't imagine when you have obtained a husband that your per-
sonal neatness and deportment may be relaxed. Then, in reality,
is the time for you to exhibit superior taste and excellence in the
cultivation of your dress and the becoming elegance of your ap-
pearance. If it required some little care to foster the admiration of
lover, how much more requisite it is to keep yourself lovely in the
eyes of him to whom there is no privacy or disguise your hourly
companion ! And as it was due to your lover that you should al-
ways present to him who proposed to wed and cherish you a neat
nd ladylike appearance, how much more is he entitled to a similar
f respect, who has kept his promise with honorable fidelity
I
HINTS FOR WIVES. 33
and linked all his hopes of future happiness with yours ! If you
manage these matters without appearing to study them, so much
the better. Some husbands are impatient of the routine of the
toilet, and not unreasonably so. They possess activity and energetic
spirits which are sorely disturbed by the waste of time. Some wives
have discovered an admirable facility in dealing with this difficulty ;
and it is a secret which, having been discovered by some, may be
known to all, and it is well worth the finding out.
It is astonishing how much the cheerfulness of a wife contributes
to the happiness of home. She is the sun, the center of a domestic
system, and her children are like planets around her, reflecting her
rays. How merry the little ones look when the mother is joyous and
good tempered, and how easily and pleasantly her household labors
are overcome ! Her cheerfulness is reflected everywhere. It is
seen in t^ie neatness of her toilet, in the order of her table, and even
in the seasoning of the dishes. We remember hearing a husband
say that he could always gauge the temper of his wife by the quality
of her soups and the lightness and delicacy of her pastry. When ill-
temper pervades, the pepper is dashed in a cloud, perchance the
pepper box is included as a kind of diminutive thunderbolt. The
salt is all in heaps, and the spices seem to betake themselves to one
spot in a pudding, as if dreading the frowning face above them. If
there be a husband who could abuse the smiles of a really good-
tempered wife, we should like to look at him ! No, no ; such a
phenomenon does not exist (?). Among the elements of domestic
happiness the amiability of the wife and mother is of the utmost
importance; it is one of the best securities for the happiness of
home.
THE MISTRESS.
A house-keeping account book should invariably be kept, and
kept punctually and precisely to write or make an entry of the
amount spent each day, let it be ever so small, arranged under their
specific heads, of butcher, baker, grocer, sundries, etc. ; and thus it
will be seen how much was paid for each article, and one month's
expenses can be compared with another, and thus you can judge
how much you can afford to spend by comparing it with what you
have in hand. Truer words were never written than " No man is
rich whose expenditures exceed his means, and no man is poor whose
incomings exceed his outgoings." If the establishment be large, it
is advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly even if a
house-keeper is kept ; then any increase of expenditure may be ex-
plained which may be apparent, and the house-keeper have the sat-
I
34 THE. MISTRESS.
isfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her department
economically have been successful. It is one of the mistress' duties to
exercise her judgment and discrimination in engaging servants. It is
best for her to know something of the servant she engages ; and
when engaging a servant it is best to make her understand before-
hand what is expected of her and committing it to writing, giving
the servant a copy of the agreement and keeping one herself, every-
thing being plainly stated and understood by both. By pursuing
this course there will not be so much contention in domestic matters,
which should be deprecated, as well as a constant change of ser-
vants. Among the great masses of society, there being exceptional
cases, it is best not to choose a servant from the lower class.
In obtaining a servant's character, it is best to have an interview
with her former mistress, and then you will be assisted in your decis-
ions of the faithfulness of the servant, whether she is honest and her
moral character good. The proper observance of courtesy
being character, in order to prevent any unreasonable intrusion on
the part of a stranger, your inquiries should be very minute, so that
you may avoid disappointments and trouble by knowing the weak
points of your domestics. This is no unreasonable requisition, for
in traveling it is expected that persons will carry letters of introduc-
tion or commendation. In all kinds of business it is expected; and
no one will for a moment employ a person that is the least light-
fingered, tardy, or unfit for business; and he must bring letters from
business places in which he has been engaged, or from competent
and reliable persons, setting forth what they are, etc. How much
more important in a domestic, who is in your bed-rooms, among
your children, in your kitchen, etc. When this is done there will be
less domestic discontent, both on the part of the employer and em-
ployed.
The treatment of servants is of the highest possible moment, as
well to the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the head
of the house the servants will naturally fix their attention, and if they
perceive that the mistress' conduct is regulated by high and correct
principles, they will not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent
desire is shown to promote their comfort, at the same time that a
steady performance of their duty is exacted, then their respect will
not be unmingled with affection, and they will still be more solicitous
to continue to deserve their favor.
The mistress should think of the late hours, and often of those of
incessant toil, that her domestics are required to keep, and never
withhold from them their full wages a single day, for they may be
needed by their dependent family, or a sick mother and father. Even
the perquisites they may get from visitors and others will be poor
THE MISTRESS. 35
compensation for the constant wear and tear of health and the use
of clothing, for they are compelled to appear genteel while in service.
When these matters are duly considered there will be found useful
and attached servants. The sensible master and kind mistress know
that if servants depend on them for the means of living, in their turn
they are dependent on their servants for many of the comforts of
life, and that in using a proper amount of care in choosing servants,
and making slight excuses for the short-comings and imperfections
ot human nature, they will, except in some cases, be tolerably well
served, and in a large majority of cases surround themselves with
attached and faithful domestics.
Servants should look forward only to obtain the good will of their
employers. By so doing they will be much happier, and find that it
is much better for them, and "ye masters give unto your servants
that which is just and equal, knowing that ye also have a master in
heaven."
Neither in the kitchen nor in any other part of the household
should the authority of the mistress be disputed. The mistress,
amid all her temptations to use angry or cutting words, should not
for a moment yield to them, but remember that she is superior, and
that pleasant words and respectful language to an inferior, or to one in
a subordinate position, with a polite and dignified bearing, will exert
a most happy influence, securing her respect and a guarantee that
she will not have to repeat her polite requests often ; her lady-
hood will be elevated in the eyes of her servants, while a corre-
sponding sympathetic refinement will be exerted on them.
A mistress should never give her orders in a haughty, chilling manner,
which her subordinate cannot return without a loss of her place.
Perhaps she may have an aged mother or other dear ones looking
to her for the bread which her hard earnings furnish them, for ser-
vants are not solely machines, or automatons, without feelings; yet at
the same time they should feel and know that they are hired to do
work, and should endeavor to perform their tasks to the best of their
ability, and as nearly in the manner they are required to do them ;
and they should never be wasteful in anything, and should always
give the mistress a cheerful reception whenever she comes into the
kitchen, and be allowed to direct new dishes, and even to share the
labors of their preparation.
The time, number and manner of receiving visits by servants had
better be decided by arrangements between the employer and em-
ployed. The mistress should teach and see that her children are
polite and kind in their manner and speech to her servants, and not
unreasonable in their demands upon their time and labor, and that
they play no tricks upon them, and do nothing to impede their work,
36 THE MISTRESS.
so that the meals may always be ready for papa when he comes
home, and that the performance of the duties of one hour may not
be crowded into that of another. This will enhance the esteem of
her domestics for herself and family, and make them more faithful
and happier in her service, while her children will learn the
golden rule, from practice as well as from precept, for the good that
is learned in the domestic circle is never forgotten ; neither can
scores of years, nor the circle of the globe, obliterate it ; and thus
the comfort and happiness of children and domestics will be aug-
mented.
COMFORTABLE COOKING.
Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends. [SHAKESPEARE.
It is not everybody in the world who knows what a good dinner
is or deserves to have one. Sonre people talk about cooking as if
it degraded them and seem to think that no part of them is worth
nourishment but what they have the impudence to call their minds.
I don't want them to read my book, because I know that there's a
great connection between beef and bones, but the man who dislikes
the one, really has a very small share of the other. Almost all peo-
ple whose work makes the world happier or better are fond of good
living. The church, the bar, the stage, the sculptor's atelier and
painter's studio, all send forth their vivants of the first water. It is
for dear little brisk women who I want to make happy that I write ;
for generous, hospitable, kindly, home-loving fellows that I am going
to cater, and I should not wonder if we find ourselves very good
friends in a little while by the aid of the ^printing press. It is more de-
rogatory to the dignity of human nature to convert bad material into
good food than it is to convert clay into bricks, and iron into bridges.
On the contrary, if the choice has to be made 'between the brick
and the beef, I know well enough which most decisions would se-
lect. A young wife cannot do better than devise the daintiest little
dishes her means will buy for her husband. A young mother cannot
do better than concoct the most health-giving food for her child, and
the matron of any age should feel proud and happy when men sit
around her table visibly refreshed and invigorated by the food she
gives them.
Good cooking is a much more common accomplishment among
rich people than poor ones. If a man goes to India, to Norway or
to our Western prairies for sport, he must needs cook his own din-
ner or do without it, and the gourmand who desires a new flavor
often tries his hand at creating it. Stewed pigeons was a favorite
dish with Louis XVIII., of France, before the Commune. You
COMFORTABLE COOKING. 37
might see any day in the Tuilleries the gold stew-pans he used in
the preparation. George IV., of England, invented the best punch
know to mankind. The famous Prince Talleyrand left in print the
finest mode of cooking a pheasant, and the "Omelette au Thea"
owes its origin to no less a person than Cardinal Richelieu.
The way to a man's heart is through his stomach or palate. Give
him nice things that agree with him and he will be as good as gold.
Real Christianity and a good, healthy appetite are usually found to-
gether. If you want to cook well and make people comfortable by
your cooking, you must remember that three things are absolutely
necessary before you can turn out the simplest dish. Those three
things are perfect cleanliness, a careful measurement of everything
you use and a strict attention to time ; therefore, buy a cheap clock
tor the kitchen, a common pair ot scales and two or three simple
measures quart, pint and half-pint measure and a graduated glass
for tablespoon and teaspoonfuls. I will use no vague terms, and if
you do exactly as I tell you the thing will turn out so well that all
your friends will compete for invitations for dinner.
REMARKS ON DINNER PARTIES.
As this is to be a very economical chapter, devoted to cheap
dishes and savings of all kinds, I hope that no person will read it
who thinks wastefulness and generosity mean the same thing. You
will be shown the great value in a housekeeping sense of the re-
mains of your dinner, and be told what to do with everything that
was left from the bills of fare for eight persons. By that time you
will find that it is true economy to give a little dinner party now and
then, because you will have as many nice things afterwards, which
would not have occurred to you to make for yourself. In fact, a
young couple could do no better so soon as they have fairly settled
down to housekeeping than to invite a few friends to dinner as often
as they conveniently can. The return invitations will enable them
to show their accomplishments in society and to keep them au cou-
rant with the world. The friendship that springs from the mutual
interchange of courtesies and hospitalities rapidly developes into a
warm feeling, and in a pecuniary sense it will "be found that -the lib-
eral hand maketh rich.
There is no reason why a young wife who lives in three or four
rooms and has only one servant and a limited income should hesi-
tate to give a little dinner, such as has been described in the first
chapter. One-half the things can be rooked the day before and
will be the better for it. The soup, entrees, custards, pudding and
tarts may be so served, leaving only the venison, the chickens, the
38 REMARKS ON DINNER PARTIES.
fish, sauces and fondue for the day itself. Of these, nearly all can
be cooking while the hostess dresses to receive her guests. Any sauces
that are not immediately wanted can be kept in perfect condition by
standing in stew-pans in which they have been made, in sauce-pans
of boiling water, or better still, in a Bain Marie, which is a shallow
bin or copper trough made to stand at the back of the stove and
holding boiling water. In this receptacle for hot water everything
may be safely placed until it is required, for the simple reason that
as the water can never get hotter than the boiling point (212 degrees
Fahrenheit), and as the contents of every sauce-pan will always be
40 degrees cooler than the boiling water by which they are sur-
rounded, no chemical changes can take place.
A neat, careful housekeeper who will take the trouble to read care-
fully the directions given for each dish, and use her wits, will easily see
how to manage her time and her dishes so as to serve her dinner
easily with the assistance of one servant only, and tolerably well
without any servant at all. However, before showing what to do
with the remainder of the dinner, a word or two may be said about
the vegetables proper to be served with it and the directions for
cooking them. See recipes for potatoes, mashed and brown mashed,
asparagus and green peas.
A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
Christmas has ever been held a fitting season for creature comforts
of all kinds. In cozy, good old-fashioned houses the* prudent matron
makes bountiful preparation for half the year through. The pickles
and preserves are made in the summer time, and are all carefully
planned to be in good condition by Christmas. The home-made
wine and beer are racked and fined and got ready for use on the
same festive time, and for weeks before the day there is an air of
pleasant anticipation of the occasion. It is indeed a time when
extra care and extra plenty are truly desirable ; it is the one period
in the year when people in middle life, long parted from friends of
their youth by the world's accidents, make sure of seeing some of
them again. The children are home from distant schools ; those
who are married must needs eat their Christmas dinner under the
old roof at least until their own covers too many olive branches to
be hastily forsaken ; and hospitality on that day generally includes
two or three of the lonely ones of earth, who, but for the fore-
thought of friends, would have their sad recollections for company.
So the kind housewife, on " hospitality intent," has much to per-
form, to do the honors of her home, as everybody has some little
individual taste she can gratify, and the more thoroughly she tries to
do this the happier she will be.
A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 39
There is no reason why very much should be left to be done on
the day itself. Mince-meat for pies may be made months before
and kept in a good stone jar witn a closely fitting stone cover. The
plum pudding may also have been made and boiled at least a week
previously. The mince pies should be made the day before; so
should the force meats for stuffing turkeys, and all the gravies and
many of the sauces. The roasting of meat must, of course, be done
on the day, and the pudding will want an hour's hard boiling, the
gravies warming up, and so on ; but there is no reason why the
work of entertaining a large party should not be spread out over
several previous days, not one of which will be over-burthened.
Now for the Christmas dinner, from which, if you are wise, you
will omit both soup and fish, for two reasons (both are excellent
ones) : the first is that the children, young and old, should all be at
table if possible, and they do not care for or know how to manage
soup ; and the second is the comfort of the servants. If, according
to the old homely fashion never so good a fashion as on this, the
best of all days, they eat at your table, and do not change about ;
if you are able to have a number of them and they dine away, which
in that case is of course only proper, then it will be well to give
them as little trouble as you can. However, the dinner to be de-
scribed is a wholesome, plentiful family meal, to which father and
mother and children, friends and relatives, may all sit down together,
and so may the servants if only one or two. The table, when spread
for a large dinner party, such as will be described, shall have at the
top a large roast turkey, stuffed with fine force-meats and garnished
with sausages what our English ancestors called " an alderman in
chains," and flanked by a tureen of delicate snow-white bread sauce
on the left side and another of brown gravy on the right. At the
bottom a fine piece of roast beef done to a turn, smoking
hot, on a hot dish, with a well to it to hold the gravy, and supported
on the right side by a tureen of hot horse-raddish sauce, on the
other by a dish of light Yorkshire pudding. On the right side of
the table should be a couple of boiled fowls with a tureen of parsley
sauce behind them, and on the left side a boiled ham, or better still,
a leg of pickled pork. With this course of savory dishes, mealy,
boiled potatoes, two delicately brown ones, which have been baked
with the beef for half an hour or so ; one of nicely mashed potatoes
and of potatoes in their jackets, which old-fashioned folks always
like ; in addition, there must be boiled cabbage, cauliflower, aspara-
gus, peas and mashed turnips, beets, salsify and carrots. So equip-
ped, you are abundantly prepared to entertain twenty or more guests,
but if your party be very large have a second turkey ready to be
brought on the table when the first is used, You may not want it,
4-O A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
but no matter ; it is just as good cold. If all these things are hot
and well-served, your guests will be delightfully comfortable, and
your first course will last along time, plain though your fare may be.
When this course is over, all the dishes must be removed, the cloth
brushed and the table laid with at the top a large, handsome
Christmas plum pudding, with a tureen of nice wine sauce. At the
bottom, two dishes of minced pies, one warmed over and one cold,
on one side, a dish of fritters. In the center of the table set cheese,
celery and salad, and the dinner will go delightfully till the cloth is
removed and dessert comes in. This may be turned into a set of
three courses by prefixing here soup, boiled turbot or salmon and
two or three side dishes.
DISHES MADE FROM THE REMAINS OF A CHRIST-
MAS DINNER.
The cold venison will make hashed venison, steaks, venison cut-
lets, minced venison, stewed venison, venison patties, and help to
make a nice game pie. Lastly, the merest scraps of each of the
foregoing viands will make the most delicious risoles.
The cold plum pudding may be warmed, but will be better served
cold on a glass dish in neat pieces about the size of two fingers, or
it may be broiled, fried, baked and treated in several ways here-
after to be described. It will keep a long time in a dry, cold place.
The apple tarts and custards will give no trouble at all, being a
great deal more dainty than when hot. The plain cold potatoes
will make "pomme de terre a la maitre d'hotel," and form" the body
of the mayonaise or salad dressing, and the cold mashed are invalu-
able for risoles or for serving with entrees.
SALADS. To use the cold smelts or cold fish of any kind, take
the heads and tails off the fish, split thefti open, take out the bones
and divide the flesh into small pieces or flakes ; then take one large
lettuce head or two small ones, about twenty raddishes, one head
of endive, one small head of watercress, a handful of any small
salad and four large slices of boiled beet-root, wash the green vege-
tables in lukewarm salt water for half an hour. Take off the large
outer leaves of the lettuce and the coarse stalks of the watercress;
chop the whole into small pieces, adding the beet-root, and put
them into a clean cloth to drain. When quite dry add the cold
fish, arrange neatly on a dish or in a salad bowl and pour over it
following salad dressing : Take two large potatoes or four small cold
ones, beat them to a paste with a wooden spoon ; add to them the
yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard,
A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 4!
two heaped teaspoonfuls of salt and one teaspoonful of finely-mixed
onions, four tablespoonfuls of the finest olive oil, and beat all to a
paste with the spoon. When quite smooth add gradually eight ta-
blespoonfuls of vinegar, stirring constantly all the time, which will
make your salad dressing rather thicker than cream. If not thin
enough, a little more vinegar may be added Last of all, to this
quantity put one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, and when the
mixture is poured over your salad you may have no fear of the re-
sult.
To CURRY THE COLD RABBIT. Take one large onion, chop it
small ; put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter ; let it stew
gently until it assumes a gold color ; then add the pieces of rabbit
that were left, just as they are, and let them get quite hot through ;
next mix one tablespoonful of the curry powder and one tablespoon-
ful of flour, with enough of the gravy left the day before to make
them into a smooth paste ; add this to the rabbit and the onion ; stir
all well over the above for five minutes ; pour in the remainder of
the gravy ; let the whole simmer for five minutes more, and it is
ready. Arrange some plain boiled rice around the edge of a dish
pour the curry, which will be a good gold color, into the center and
at once.
To ragout the cold chicken, carve the chicken into neat joints,
reserving all the scraps, bones and trimmings for after-use ; make
2 ounces of butter hot in a frying-pan ; fry the pieces of chicken
over a sharp fire for five minutes till they are a light brown ; lay
them on a napkin to drain. Take enough of your strained soup to
cover them ; thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour, i of mushroom
catsup and i of port wine ; boil it ; arrange the pieces of chicken in
a dish ; pour the gravy over them and place around a few small
sippets of crisp dry bread.
For the hashed venison, place the jar containing the slices of ven-
ison and the gravy (as directed for ragout of chicken), in a sauce-
pan of boiling water, and let it boil for half an hour; take the venison
out and lay it on a hot dish ; put the hot gravy into a small enameled
sauce-pan ; add i tablespoonful currant jelly and i of port wine to
it ; give it one boil, stirring all the time to melt the jelly ; pour the
gravy boiling hot over the venison and serve at once. The cold
mashed potatoes of the day before maybe arranged like a wall
around the dish and baked in a moderate oven for half an hour.
Note. If the rabbit had not been already stewed a very different
process would be followed. The flavors acquired in stewing render
nothing necessary for the curry but the above.
42 A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
Either the chicken ragout or the hashed venison may be poured into
the center, to the exceeding gratification of both the sight and the
palate.
To dress cold boiled potatoes a la moitie d'hotel, put 2 ounces of
butter in a deep frying-pan or a stew-pan and add to it 4 tablespoon-
fuls of gravy, i of minced parsley, i teaspoonful of minced lemon
peeling and i tablespoonful of lemon juice ; stir over the fire till
the butter is melted. Take the cold potatoes (about i pound all
together), cut them into slices about one-third of an inch thick, lay
them in this mixture, cover the pan and let them stew gently for one-
quarter of an hour.
Now, having got through our bill of fare, we will just follow its
various items to the end of their career: In the first place you made
3 quarts of soirb stock, of which 2 quarts were served in the shape
of Julienne soup and the third used for gravies and sauces. Of
the 2 quarts sent to the table you will probably find quite i pint left
in the tureen, for, as ordinary soup plates hold only half a pint, it
follows that if your tureen be empty, you must have committed the
mistake of filling them too full, or your guests must have been
gouche enough to require helping twice, neither of which occasions
was likely to have happened in these days of refinement. This
shall be strained away from the vegetables as soon as it comes from
the table and put in a clean jar in the safe. It will make a capital
gravy for your rechoufees. Of the smelts you will have at least four
remaining. These must be laid aside on a clean plate. Of the
side-dishes or entrees there will probably be one-half of each left.
These should be lifted on to separate plates, and the gravy belonging
to each strained and set aside in clean jars. There will also be at
least one fowl untouched and most likely a part of another, about 8
pounds of venison and a bone or two and a quantity of the sauces
belonging to each. Don't be alarmed at the apparent waste: don't
throw anything away ; put each sauce separately in a jar ; the fowls,
duck and pudding on clean plates, and let the whole remain till they
are wanted. For the venison you must pursue another rule. Decide
how many people you will have to dinner on the morrow ; cut a
handsome slice for each, just as it comes warm from the table ; lay
the cut slices in a jar that has a close-fitting lid ; pour in enough of
the warm gravy to cover them, and put the jar away. The rest of
the joint must be put on a dry dish, and the remaining gravy, if
any, set aside by itself. The cold fish will make a capital salad or
mayonaise. The cold rabbit will make a delightful fricasee, a curry
or a pie. The cold pigeons may just be warmed up by placing
them in a jar and boiling the jar in water for twenty minutes, boiling
the gravy separately and pouring it over them,
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 43
SOUPS AND BROTHS.
The chief cook in the Pliny days of Roman voluptuousness had
a salary of about $4,000 a year, and Mark Antony made a pres-
ent of a city to the cook who prepared a supper that pleased
Cleopatra. It will always occur, particularly in large families,
that either on the dish or on the plates the refuse bones and
fragments of meat are left. Every fragment of these should be
gathered up. Nothing in the way of animal food should be thrown
away such as heads, necks and feet of poultry, trimmings of nice
meat, etc. ; vegetables, slices of stale bread, etc. If these are not
called for in the household, they can be used in making soup
for the sick and poor, who will, in the majority of cases, be
thankful for this token of thoughtfulness on the part of the propri-
etress of the house. Beside this, the skimmings of meat should be
saved, and sometimes the boilings, which should be well seasoned;
may prove very grateful to the family, and the bones, scraps, vegeta-
bles can be added to it. This liquor, when boiled down to a proper
consistency, will form a good foundation for many kinds of gravies,
as well as soups. In order to extract all the juices from the bones,
it is best to boil them first, then strain off into a soup kettle, and if
any portion of meat remains on the bones cut off the bits and
add whatever else you have with them into the kettle. Then stew or
boil slowly from 3 to 4, or even 6 hours. It is best to do this the
day before you wish to use it. It can be easily warmed over, or
brought to a boil, when it will be ready for the table.
Cloves were but little known to the ancients. Pliny appears to
be the only writer who mentions them ; and he says vaguely that
some were brought to Rome very similar to grains of pepper, but
somewhat larger; that they were only to be found in India, in a
wood consecrated to the gods, and that they served in the manufac-
ture of perfumes. The clove is the unexpanded flower of the
coryophillus aromaticus, a handsome branching tree, a native of the
Malacca Islands. The clove has a considerable resemblance to a
nail, whence they take their name from the Latin clovus, or the
French clou, both meaning a nail. As in the case of the nutmeg,
to secure a monopoly of the cloves and that the cultivation of them
might be confined to Amboya, their chief island, the Dutch bribed
the surrounding chiefs to cut down all the trees found elsewhere, and
thus keep the means of supply wholly to themselves, by eradicating
it from every other island; but it has now become naturalized in
both the Indies, as well as in many of the South Sea Islands and all
warm countries.
44 SOUPS AND BROTH&.
Basil is a native of the East Indies. It now grows well in temper-
ate climates as an annual, as well as in warm countries. It is highly
aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling cloves. Its leaves
are used in soups and salads by French cooks, with whom it is a great
favorite.
Coriander enters largely into the composition of curry powder with
temeric. It came originally from hot countries. But it will grow
luxuriantly in moderate climates, and is a valuable commodity for
the use of confectioners and druggists, and is a most valuable car-
minative. Its tender leaves are highly aromatic, and are employed
as a seasoning for soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large
quantities for the purposes of distillation, and also as seasoning for
.pies, cakes, sauces, etc. It grows well in Virginia.
Chevil. Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its
leaves are tender and are used as salads. Among the ancients
it was made a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine and
gravy. It has beautiful frizzled leaves, and is cultivated in Savoy,
is a close headed, wrinkled leaved cabbage, sweet and tender,
especially in the middle leaves.
Vegetables add much to the flavor of soups and broth. All fat
should be removed while cooking. Vegetables should be taken out
of the soup, that is, if preferred.
SOUP STOCKS. Allow i Ib. of beef for 2 quarts of water. Who-
ever is engaged in the important task of cooking or preparing a din-
ner, it is highly necessary to place all the ingredients to be used
on the table before commencing the operation, so that no timewill be
lost after using one article to look out for another.
THE MEDIUM STOCK. Four Ibs. knuckles of veal or beef or two
Ibs. of each ; any bones or trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1-4
Ib. of lean bacon or ham, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 large onions each stuck
with 3 cloves, i turnip, 3 carrots, i head of celery, 3 lumps of sugar,
2 ozs. of salt, 1-2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, i large blade of mace,
i bunch of savory herbs, 4 quarts and 1-2 pint of cold water. Cut
up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces of about 3 inches square,
rub them on the bottom of the stew pan, put in 1-2 pint of water, the
meat and all the other ingredients. Cover the stew pan and place
it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents ; when the bottom
of the pan becomes covered with a pale jelly-like substance add the
4 quarts of cold water and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As we
have said before, do not let it boil quickly.
This (medium) stock is the basis of many of the soups after-
wards mentioned and will be found quite strong enough for ordinary
purposes. Boil 5 1-2 hours.
WHITE STOCK, to be used in the preparation of white soups. 4
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 45
knuckles of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4 slices of lean ham, three
carrots, 3 onions, i head of celery, 12 pepper corns, 2 02. of salt, i
blade of mace, i bunch of herbs, i oz. of butter, 4 quarts of water.
Cut the veal up and put it with the bones and trimmings of the
poultry and the ham into the -stew pan, which has been rubbed with
the butter. Moisten with 1-2 pint of water and simmer till the gravy
begins to flow, then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of
the ingredients. Simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and strain-
ing it carefully through a very fine hair sieve it will be ready for use.
Boil 5 1-2 hours.
N. B. When stronger stock is desired double the quantity of veal,
or put an old fowl in. The liquor in which a young turkey, goose
or any other fowl has been boiled is an excellent addition to all white
stock or soup.
RICH STRONG STOCK. Four Ibs. of shin of beef, 4 Ibs, of knuckle
of veal, 1-2 Ib. of good lean ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 ounces
of butter, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, (if the weather is hot the
turnips should be omitted lest they ferment), i head of celery, a few
chopped mushrooms when obtainable, i tomato, i bunch of savory
herbs, not forgetting the parsley, i 1-2 ounce of salt, 3 lumps of su-
gar, 12 white pepper corns, 6 cloves, 3 small pieces of mace, four
quarts of water. Line a delicately clean stew pan with the ham cut
in thin, broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat, cut up the
beef and veal in pieces about 3 inches square and lay them on the
ham, set it on the stove and draw it down and stir frequently ; when
the meat is equally browned put in the beef and veal bones, the poul-
try trimmings and pour in the cold water. Skim well and occasion-
ally add a little cold water to stop its boiling until it becomes quite
clear, then put in all the other ingredients and simmer very slowly
for 5 hours ; do not let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not
wasted, that the color may be preserved. Strain through a very fine
hair sieve or cloth, and the stock will be fit for use. Boil 5 hours.
BROWNING FOR STOCK. Two oz. powdered sugar and 1-2 pint
water. Place the sugar in a stewpan until it becomes black, then
add the water and let it dissolve. Cook closely and use a few drops
when required. N. B. In France onions burnt are made use of
for the purpose of browning. As a general rule the process of
browning is to be discouraged, as it is apt to impart a slightly unpleas-
ant flavor to the stock, and, consequently, to the soups made from it.
To CLARIFY STOCK. The whites of 2 eggs, 1-2 pint water, 2
quarts stock. Supposing that, by accident, the soup is not quite clear
and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully
Separated from the yolks, whisk them well together with the water
and add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still skimming. Place
4o SOUPS AND BROTHS.
the soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the
eggs with it till nearly boiling again ; then draw it from the fire
and let it settle until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass
through a fine cloth, and the soup should be clear. N. B. The
rule is, that all soups should be of a light straw color, and should
not savor too strongly of the meat, and that all white or brown thin
soups should have no more consistency than will enable them to
adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All juices should be some-
what thicker.
CHICKEN BROTH. Cut a chicken into small pieces, remove the
skin and any fat that is visible ; boil it for 20 minutes in a quart of
water with a blade of mace, a slice of onion and 10 grains of white
pepper. Simmer slowly till flavor is good; beat i oz. sweet almonds
with a little water and add it to the broth ; strain it, and when cold
take off the fat.
CHICKEN BROTH. Skin the body and legs of a chicken and put
all into water and boil with i blade of mace, a small onion and 12
grains of black pepper. Simmer till the broth acquires a pleasant
flavor.
EEL BROTH. Set on with i 1-2 quarts of water, i Ib. of well
cleaned eels, some parsley, a little thyme, a small onion, a few grains
of black pepper ; let them boil slowly till the eels come to pieces
and the broth good. Add salt and strain it. When done the whole
should make i 1-2 quarts.
FISH BROTH is very nutricious and light of digestion. It may be
made of almost any kind of fish, the more thick-skinned and glutin-
ous the better. The following are the directions: Take 1-2 Ib. of
any kind of fish, set them on with 3 pints of water, an onion, a few
pepper corns and some parsley ; let it simmer till the fish is broken
and the liquor reduced 1-2 ; then add salt and strain it. Some peo-
ple like the addition of a spoonful of vinegar or catsup, and if the
bowels be in a healthy condition there is no objection to it.
A BROTH MADE QUICKLY. Take off the fat and skin of a bone or
two of a neck or loin of mutton, set it on the fire in a saucepan that
has a cover, with 3-4 of a pint of water. Trie meat should first be
beaten and cut in small, thin bits ; add a bit of thyme or parsely,
and, if desired, a part of an onion. Let it boil quickly ; skim it
closely ; take off the cover, if likely to be too thin, else cover it ; 1-2
an hour is sufficient to cook it.
BROTH OF MUTTON, VKAL OR BEEF. Broth and soup made of
different meats are more nourishing, as well as better flavored. To
remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as possible. If there
be any remaining, lay a bit of blotting paper or cap paper on the
broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Take i
SOUPS AND feROTHS. 47
lb. of backbone of veal, i Ib. of backbone of mutton, 2 Ibs. of lean
beef, sweet herbs, 12 pepper corns, put into a clean saucepan with
5 quarts of water, boil gently to 3 quarts. When cold remove the
fat. If desired, add an onion.
For thick mutton broth, proceed as for thick beef tea, omitting
the rice. A tablespoonful of burnt sugar and water will give a rich
color to the broth.
MOTHER'S VEAL SOUP. Boil a small piece of veal in 2 quarts of
water in which has been dissolved a tablespoonful of salt ; when the
veal is done remove it from the water and put in the water 4 or 5
onions sliced, boil 1-2 hour, then stir into this, sifting through the
fingers, some corn meal while it is boiling ; stir it constantly. Pep-
per and salt to taste. It should not be thicker than rich cream.
CALVES' FEET BROTH. Take 2 calf s feet, 2 oz. of veal and 2 oz.
of beef, the bottom of a small loaf, 2 or 3 blades of mace, 1-2 nut-
meg braised, a little salt, in 3 quarts of water, boil 3 pints ; strain
and remove the fat.
BEEF TEA. Take i 1-2 Ibs. of the best beefsteak and cut it into
very small pieces, then put them into an earthern jar without any
water, or with enough cold water to cover the meat, or a wide- mouthed
glass bottle set in a vessel of cold water and brought to a boil ; place
the stone jar on a stove and let it come to a boil for 3 hours, when
all the nutriment of the meat will have been extracted ; or let the
glass bottle in the vessel remain on the stove and used when required
by the patient. Both jar and bottle should be covered with a cloth
tied over them, or with their tops fastened closely. Season, if ap-
proved, but it is frequently only salted. It is best to make the plain
jelly the day before wanted.
SCOTCH BROTH. This favorite Scotch dish is generally made with
the liquor in which meat has been boiled. Put 1-2 pint or i cup of
oat meal into a porringer with a little salt, if there be not enough in
the broth, of which add as much as will mix it to the consistency of
harty pudding or a little thicker; lastly take a little of the fat that
swims on the broth and put it on the crowdie and eat in the same
way as you would hasty pudding.
CLAM SOUP. Lay out 1-2 lb. of pork ; to this add 2 Ibs of potatoes
and 2 onions, and boil together. When the potatoes are done open
and add one can of clams, five crackers and one pint of milk. Let
it simmer five minutes and serve.
MRS. MINER'S CLAM SOUP. Take 30 good-sized clams, boil in as
little water as will open the shells, strain the liquor and add equal
quantity of sweet milk ; boil together. Season with pepper and
whole cloves, rubbed together after adding butter and flour to
thicken the milk ; chop the clams fine, and just before serving add
them to the boiling liquor.
48 SOUPS AND BROTHS.
CLAM SOUP (Mrs. Carpenter). Cut salt pork in very small squares
and fry them a light brown ; add i large or 2 small onions cut very
fine and cook about 10 minutes ; add 2 quarts of water and i of
raw potatoes sliced ; let it boil. Then add i can of clams ; mix i
tablespoonful of flour and water, put it with i pint of milk and pour
into the soup, and let it boil 5 minutes. Beef, pepper, salt and
Worcestershire sauce to taste.
VIRGINIA OYSTER SOUP. Take 2 quarts of strong, clear broth,
whether of fish or meat; add to it the hard part of a quart of fresh,
juicy oysters, previously well pounded in a mortar and the hard
boiled yolks of 6 eggs ; simmer for half an hour and strain into a
fresh stewpan, in which have the oysters cleared of the beards and
very nicely washed from shells and sands. Season with mace and
cayenne and let the oysters simmer for 8 minutes, when the yolks of
3 eggs well beaten may be stirred into a little soup and gradually
mix with the whole quantity, throwing aside the stewpan and con-
stantly stirring lest they curdle. When smooth and thick serve in a
tureen and stir the soup for a few minutes to prevent curdling. Any
other flavor that is wished may be given to the luscious soup.
OYSTER SOUP. Strain the liquor from 100 oysters and carefully
remove any bits of shell or particle of seaweed. To every pint of
oyster liquor allow an equal quantity of rich milk. Season it with
white pepper and some blades of mace. Add a head of celery
washed, scraped and minced small. Put the whole into a soup pot
and boil and skim it well. When it boils put in the oysters. Also
1-4 of a Ib. of fresh butter; divide into 4 pieces each piece rolled in
flour. Boil 6 eggs hard and crumble the yolks into the soup. After
the oysters are in give them but one boil up, just sufficient to plump
them. If boiled longer they will shrink and shrivel and. lose their
taste. Take them all out and set them away to cool. When the
soup is done place in the bottom of the tureen some square pieces
of nicely toasted bread cut into dice, and pour on the soup ; grate in
a nutmeg and then add the oysters. Serve it up very hot.
OYSTER SOUP. Put into some good mutton broth 2 large onions,
3 blades of mace and some black pepper. When strained pour it
on 150 oysters cleaned from the shell and a piece of butter rolled in
flour. Simmer gently for 1-4 of an hour and it will be done.
LOBSTER SOUP. Take out the meat from the claws, bodies and
tails of 6 small lobsters ; remove the brown and bag in the head ;
beat the fins, chine and small claws in a mortar ; boil it gently in 2
quarts of water, with the crumbs of a French roll, some white pep-
pers, salt, 2 herrings or a small portion of bloater paste, a large
onion, some sweet herbs and a little piece of lemon peel grated will
add to the goodness of the whole. Then strain it off, beat the spawn
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 49
in a mortar with a little butter, 1-4 of a nutmeg grated and a tea-
spoonful of flour, to which add a quart of cream. Cut the tails in
pieces and boil them with the cream and soup. Serve it with force
meat balls made of the residue of the lobsters, mace, pepper, salt,
some bread crumbs and i or 2 eggs ; the balls should be made of
flour and heated in the soup.
CRAB SOUP (Creole). Take 12 or more young, raw and fat crabs,
open and clean them and cut them in two. Parboil and pick the
meat from the claws and the fat from the top shell; scald 1 8 ripe
tomatoes ; skin and squeeze the pulp from the seed and chop it fine,
scald the seeds and juice; use it for making the soup. Put 3 or 4
large onions into the soup pot for a short time, i clove of garlic in
i spoonful of butter, 2 spoonfuls of lard. After stewing a few min-
utes add the meat from the crab claws, then the crabs, and last the
fat from the back shell of the crab, sift over it grated bread crumbs
or cracker dust. Season with salt, black pepper, parsley, sweet mar-
joram, thyme, 1-2 teaspoonful each of lemon juice and the peel of a
lemon, put in the water with which the seed were scalded and boil it
moderately i hour. The onions should be boiled a little before
used. Any fish of firm flesh can be used instead of the crab.
SHRIMP SOUP. Two quarts of fish stock, 2 pints of shrimps, the
crumbs of a french roll. Tomato or mushroom catsup, to taste,
i blade of mace, 1-4 pint vinegar, a little lemon peel, pick out
the tails of the shrimps or not, put the bodies in a stew pan
with i blade of mace. 1-4 pint vinegar and the same quantity of
water; stew them for 10 minutes and strain off the liquor. Put
the fish stock into a stew pan, add the strained liquor, pound the
shrimps with the crumbs of a roll moistened with a little of .the
soup, rub them through a fine sieve and mix them by degrees
with the soup, add catsup to taste with a little lemon sauce ; when
it is well cooked put in some picked shrimps, let them get thor-
oughly hot and serve. If not thick enough put in a little butter
and flour. Cook i hour. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for
8 persons.
FISH Sxock (for Fish Soups.) Twolbs. of veal (these can be omit-
ted), any kind of white fish, trimmings of fish which are to be
dressed for table, 2 ounces, the rind of 1-4 lemon, a bunch of sweet
herbs, 2 carrots, 2 quarts of water. Cut the fish up and put it with
the other ingredients into water, simmer for 2 hours, skim the liquor
carefully and strain it ; when a richer stock is wanted fry the vege-
tables and fish before adding the water. Simmer 2 hours.
N. B. Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it
spoils.
EEL SOUP. To 2 quarts of water put 3 Ibs. of small eels, a crust
5O SOUPS AND BROTHS.
of bread, 3 blades of mace, some whole peppers, i onion, a piece
of carrot, some parsley ; cover the whole close and stew it till the
fish is broken, and then strain off. Toast some bread, cut it into
small pieces and pour the soup on it in a boiling state; 1-4 pint of
rich cream may be added with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth
in it.
GOOSE SOUP. In France, where soups form a considerable portion
of the diet, goose soup is much appreciated, and if carefully prepared
is excellent. The goose must not be too fat. Truss it if for roast-
ingvand put it into a stew pan with 3 quarts beef stock, the gib-
lets or a slice of lean ham, a leek, an onion, a carrot and a head
of celery ; simmer very gently, removing the scum for 4 hours,
then take out the goose and keep it hot, and the giblets, which
may be stirred, can be used for potting, strain the soup, season it
with a pinch of cayenne, and salt; simmer one-half hour, line the
bottom of the tureen with hard toasted bread, then add 2 glasses
of Madeira to the soup ; pour it over the toast in the tureen.
The goose may be served with onion sauce or any of the sauces for
boiled goose.
TURKEY BONE SOUP. Take the turkey bones and stew for one
hour in enough water to cover them, then stir in a little dressing and
beaten eggs ; take from the fire, and when the water has ceased boil-
ing add some butter, pepper and salt ; thicken with a very little flour
or corn starch stirred in sweet milk.
A LARGER .QUANTITY OF INGREDIENTS AND FOR SEVERAL PERSONS.
Three Ibs. of beef, i bone, 51-2 quarts water, 2 ozs. salt, 2 carrots,
10 ozs. ; 2 large onions, 10 ozs.
*NOTE Should any remain after serving this soup it could be saved
to add to the sauce when the beef is warmed up. Break the bones
when the soup is made and put the marrow with the fat skimmed
from the soup all of it ; then stew it down ; all the sediments will
go to the bottom and the grease will cease to crack when all the wa-
ter is out and the grease clarified; then strain through a fine sieve
and put away for frying.
Ox TAIL SOUP. Take 2 ox tails, cut them at the Joints, and
then cut them in small pieces as near of a size as possible; blanch,
dra>n and put them in a stew pan with i gallon of rich broth, one
onion, with 2 cloves stuck in it ; i fagot; boil, then simmer till the
tails are cooked, turn 20 small carrots into a pan shape, boil them in
the soup and glaze them. Boil and glaze 20 small button onions;
when the tails are cooked drain in a collander, clean each piece, put
them in a soup tureen together with the carrots and onions, pour
over 2 quarts of boiling veal soup and serve.
SOUP WITH MARROW DUMPLINGS. Beat together 1-2 Ib. pure
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 51
melted beef marrow, 3 eggs and the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a
froth ; add to this 3 pints of milk bread, of which the crust has been
removed and have soaked in water and then pressed out together
with some nutmeg and salt. Out of this composition make with
the hands small, round dumplings about the size of hazel nuts, put
them in i 1-2 gallons liquid from soup stock, boil the whole
slowly for 1-4 hour, when the soup can be dished up.
CLEAR MOCK TURTLE SOUP. Prepare as above, omitting the
flour ; strain the broth and clarify it with i Ib. of veal pounded in a
mortar, with 2 whites of eggs ; finish the soup as in the preceding
lecipe.
MOCK TURTLE SOUP (the Slock.) One calf s head, 2 gallons water,
2 ounces butter, 2 onions, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 heads celery, bunch of
herbs, 7 Ibs. beef, 8 cloves, 2 shallots, i teaspoonful black pepper, i
teaspoonful allspice For this rich and useful soup always required
at a handsome dinner, several tried and approved receipts are given-
Take a calf's head with the skin on, remove the brains and lay them
aside ; wash the head in cold water, in which it may be for i hour ;
then put it into a stew parf with 2 gallons of cold water and let it
boil gently for i hour, removing the scum gradually; then take it out
of the broth and let it remain to be 1-2 cold, when the meat must be
cut from the bones into square pieces of about an inch ; the skin,
which is the prime part, should have the fat left adhering to it; the
tongue must be cut up in the same way.
Put into a stock pot 2 ounces of butter, and 2 good sized onions
sliced ; shake them over the fire till brown, then place over them 5
Ibs. of coarse, lean beef and pour over 1-2 of the broth in which
the head has been boiled. Let it boil till all the scum be removed,
then add 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 heads of celery, 8 cloves, 2 shallots
and a bunch of savory, thyme, marjoram and basil, with 3 sprigs of
fresh parsley and a teaspoonful of black pepper, and i teaspoonful
allspice. Add the bones and the trimmings of the head, and the
remainder of the broth, and let all stew gently for 4 hours, then strain
off. This is the stock.
THICKENING. Six ounces butter, 6 ounces flour, 1-4 lemon peel,
1-4 ounce shallois, 1-4 ounce sage, 1-4 ounce savory. Put 6 ounces
of butter into a clean stew pan and gradually blend with it 6 ounces
of flour; smooth it by adding 1-2 pint of the stock. In another pan
put 1-2 pint of stock with 1-4 ounce each of grated lemon peel,
shallots, sage and savory. Boil for 1-2 hour, strain, and rub the herbs
through a tammy cloth; then blend the liquor with the thickening
and strain all into the stock. Let it simmer over the fire for an hour
with the squares of meat added, and then make ready the seasoning,
as below.
52 SOUPS AND BROTHS.
SEASONING. Two teaspoonfuls lemon juice, 2 teaspoonfuls mush-
room catsup, i teaspoonful essence of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne,
thin peel of i lemon, i pint of Madeira. The seasoning to be added
must be 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, 2 of mushroom catsup and
1 of anchovies ; the thin peel of a lemon and a pint of Madeira or
sherry. Simmer 5 minutes, take out the lemon peel, then add the
quenelles as for turtle soup, and if required brain balls and egg balls,
as in the following receipts and the soup is ready for the tureen. It
can be reduced by boiling to 4 or 5 quarts.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, or MuLLAQHEE TAWNiE SOUP. This cel-
ebrated soup, in such great favor with all who have resided long in
India, owes its peculiar flavor to the currie powder with which it is
invariably seasoned, .though it may be varied by attention to the
following tried receipts: Ingredients veal, 4 Ibs. ; black pepper, 12
corns; allspice, 12 corns; water, 2 quarts, 4 onions, 2 tablespoon-
fuls currie powder, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, i teaspoonful salt. This
is Dr. Kitchmier's good though old fashioned receipt. Cut 4 Ibs.
of a breast of veal into pieces about 2 inches by i, put the trimmings
into a stew pan with 12 corns of black pepper, 12 corns allspice and
2 quarts water ; when it boils skim it and let it continue to boil i 1-2
hours, then strain it off. In the meantime fry the squares of veal
and 4 onions in butter till they are nicely browned, put the broth to
them, put it on the fire, skim it clean, let it simmer 1-2 hour, then
mix 2 tablespoonfuls currie powder, 2 spoonfuls flour and a teaspoon-
ful of salt with as much cold water as will make a baiter ; stir this into
the soup and let it simmer another 1-2 hour, then serve with boiled
rice.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP FOR FAMILTRS. Veal 3 Ibs., 3 quarts of
water, i carrot, i turnip, i bunch herbs, 2 onions, 10 white pepper
corns, i fowl or rabbit, 2 spoonfuls currie powder, 2 spoonfuls brown
flour, a pinch of cayenne, i teaspoonful salt, i spoonful lemon juice,
2 spoonfuls cream. Take a knuckle of veal, about 3 or 4 Ibs. in
weight, break the bones and put it in a stew pan with three quarts of
water, a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions and 10 or
12 pepper corns ; stew for 3 hours, then strain off the broth ; take a
fowl or a rabbit, skin and cut it into small pieces. These must be
fried in butter till brown and put into the broth, which must stew for
another hour, then mix in a basin 2 tablespoonfuls of flour browned
before the fire, a pinch of cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of salt, a
tablespoonful of lemon juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of good cream.
Rub it quite smooth and mix by degrees with the soup, which must
simmer 1-2 hour longer and then rubbed through a sieve and served
with boiled rice.
GAME SOUP. A very good soup may be made in the season by
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 53
taking all the breasts of any cold birds which have been left pre-
ceding day. First pound the meat in a marble mortar ; then break
the legs and other bones in pieces, and boil them in some broth for
an hour; do the same with 6 turnips, mash them and strain them
through a hair sieve with the meat that has been pounded ; strain off
the broth in the same manner ; then put it into the soup kettle near
the fire, but do not let it boil ; add thereto the prepared eggs and
cream, stirring the same well with a wooden spoon. Be careful not
to let it boil, otherwise it will curdle.
PIGKON SOUP. Take 8 pigeons, cut down 2 of the oldest and put
them with the necks, pinions, livers and gizzards of the others into
4 quarts of water ; let it boil till the substance is extracted, and strain
it; season the pigeons with mixed spices and salt; and truss them
as for stewing ; pick and wash clean a handful of parsley, cloves,
young onions and a good deal of spinach ; chop them ; put 'these
in a frying pan with 1-4 ib. butter, and when it boils mix in a hand-
ful of bread crumbs ; keep stirring them with a knife till of a fine
brown ; boil the whole pigeons till they become tender in the soup,
with the herbs and fried bread. If the soup be not sufficiently
highly seasoned add mixed spices and salt.
PEPPER For (West Indian). This should be made in an earthen
pot, which always remains by the side of the fire ; have the contents
simmer, but do not boil. These should consist of an equal admix-
ture of fish, flesh and vegetables seasoned with chilis or cayenne
pepper and salt; the only attention it requires being occasional
skimming and the addition of a little water when it gets too dry.
Anything and everything may be put into it ; and as it should at all
times be simmering by the fire, a good meal is always ready for any
guest that may chance to come uninvited.
NOODLES FOR SOUP. Beat up an egg and add to it as much flour
as will make a very stiff dough. Roll it out in a very thin sheet,
flour it and roll it up closely, as you would do a sheet of paper ;
then, with a sharp knife, cut it off with short rings about like cab-
bage for slaw. Flour these cuttings to prevent them from adhering
to each other, and then add them to your soup while it is boiling.
Boil 10 minutes.
BEEF NOODLE SOUP. To i slightly beaten egg, i dessert spoon-
ful water, a little salt, add enough flour to make a stiff dough. Work
it thoroughly for 10 or 12 minutes; add flour when necessary. When
soft cut off as much as is necessary at a time ; roll as thin as possi-
ble, sprinkle with flour, and beginning at one side, roll it into a rather
light roll ; then, with a sharp knife, begin at one end and cut it into
very thin slices, forming little wheels or curls. Lay them on the
paste-board, and let them remain one hour to dry; then drop them
into one quart of boiling stock and cook 20 minutes.
54 SOUPS AND BROTHS.
GERMAN NOODT.KS (Mrs. Heil Ross). Make up the desired
quantity of flour with beaten eggs, a pinch of salt ; then work until
perfectly smooth; roil, then cut through in sheets with a knife and
boil until done, then pour off the water and add some butter and
cream. Serve hot for dinner.
BEEF SOUP. Three Ibs. of beef, 3 carrots, i turnip, i bunch cel-
lery, 4 onions. 2 bunches leeks, tablespoonful salt, pepper to taste ;
cut the meat into pieces the size of an egg, vegetables washed and
scraped and cut in small pieces; put all into a large stewpan with 4
or 5 quarts of water. Boil gently for a whole day. Let it stand all
night ; carefully remove the fat next day and add a pinch of cay-
enne pepper; make boiling hot.
SOUP (Mrs. Pr.ce, Virginia). Always observe in making soup to
lay your meat in the bottom of the pan with a lump of butter ; cut
the herbs and roots small and lay them over the meat ; cover it
closely and set it over a slow fire.. This will draw out the flavor of
the herbs and roots and make the soup much better. When your
meat is almost dried up fill your pan with water. When done take
it off and skim it. Set it in a warm place just before you dish up
your dinner. N. B. Ochre, nutmeg, cymblings (squash), Irish po-
tatoes, cut up very small, put them in an earthern pot with water,
some slices of lean, sweet bacon, sojne green corn, a few onions,
parsley, leeks chopped fine, Lima beans, tomatoes peeled and cut
up, a small bunch of thyme, a chicken, thicken with flour and'but-
ter, wet up with rich cream'. Add salt and pepper.
COLORING FOR SOUPS (West Indian mode). Pare 3 medium-
sized onions or 2 large ones and brown them well in an oven, then
chop them fine. This will give a nice color as well as flavor to bruwn
soup. Shells of green peas dried in the oven till brown, not black,
will color and flavor soup nicely. The shells, if hung in a dry place,
will keep all winter.
COLORING SOUPS. Some prefer it because the soup looks better
to the eye.
SOUP GOOD INGREDIENT FOR. i 1-2 Ibs. beef, shoulder part, 1-4
Ib. bone, 31-4 quarts water, i oz. salt, a common-sized carrot, 5 oz. ;
i large onion, 5 oz. with a clove stuck in it ; 3 leeks, 7 oz. ; i
head celery, 1-2 oz. ; middle-sized turnip, 5 oz. ; parsley, i oz. This
will make enough.
SOUP (Mrs. Upshur, Virginia). i quart clams, i pint of their
liquor, 3 pints of water, 1-2 slice of bread, a piece of butter the
size of a nutmeg, 3 blades of mace, a few whole pepptrs and one
bunch of sweet herbs. Cover it closely and stew 45 minutes. Strain
it and add a cup of cream, which scald a little, before serving up the
soup.
OBSERVATIONS ON FISHES. 55
ASPARAGUS SOUPS. One quart can of asparagus in 1-2 gallon
boiling milk, 4 tablespoonfuls corn starch, i of butter; nutmeg, pep-
per and salt to taste. Heat the asparagus and strain through a coarse
sieve, thicken the boiling milk with the corn starch dissolved in a
little cold milk, add asparagus, salt, butter, pepper and nutmeg. Let
all come to a boil. If the soup is too thick add more milk and serve
very hot.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FISHES.
"The great deep" is crowded with inhabitants of various sizes
and of vastly different constructions, with modes of life entirely
distinct from those which belong to the animals of the land, and
with peculiarities of design equally wonderful with those of any
works which have come from the hands of the Creator. Experi-
ence has taught us these facts. However, the history of these
races, more or less, must remain forever in a state of darkness,
since it is beyond the power of man to explore the depths in
which they live, and since the illimitable expansion of their do-
main places them almost entirely out of the reach of human ac-
cessibility.
The formation of fishes shows that they are in every respect
adapted to the element in which they live, and there is no doubt that
the form of the fish originally suggested the shape of the ship. But
the velocity of the ship sailing before the wind is by no means to be
compared to that of the fish. The largest fishes will with the great-
est ease overtake a ship, play around it without any effort, and shoot
ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from that flexibility which to
compete with mocks the labors of art and enables them to migrate
thousands of miles in a season without the slightest indications of
fatigue. How wonderful. How adorably simple has the Supreme
Being adapted certain means to the attainment of certain ends !
The principal instruments employed by fishes. to accelerate their
motion are their air bladder, fins and tail. By means of the air blad-
der they enlarge or diminish their specific gravity. In swimming
the fins enable fishes to preserve their upright position, which act
like two feet. The tail is an instrument of great muscular force,
and largely assists the fish in all its motions, and in some instances
acts like the rudder of a ship.
WITH RKSPECT TO THI-; FOOD OF FISHKS. They are mostly car-
nivorous and find their food almost universally in their own element.
They even devour their own offsprings, seize upon almost everything
that comes in their way, and manifest a particular predeliction for
living creatures. They frequently engage in fierce conflict with their
56 OBSERVATIONS ON FISHES.
prey. The animal with the largest mouth is usually the victor,
and he no sooner has conquered his foe than he devours him.
Innumerable shoals or armies of one species pursue those of
another species, and with a ferocity that drives them from the
frozen zones of the poles to the burning regions of the equator.
In these antagonistic pursuits and hostile combats, fierce as fatal,
many species must have become extinct, had not Nature, whose
tender mercies are over all its works, provided means of escape
in proportion to the extent and variety of the danger to which
they are exposed. Hence the smaller species are not only more
numerous, but more productive than the larger. From instinct
they go in search of food and safety near shores and in shallow
waters, where many of their foes are unable to follow them.
The fecundity of fishes has been the wonder of those whose
attention has been drawn to it. The greater number deposit their
spawn in the sand or gravel and some on seaweed. It has been
estimated that the flounder produces millions annually ; the cod
spawns upwards of nine million eggs in one single roe ; the mack-
erel five hundred thousand, a herring ten thousand, a carp two
hundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four, a
perch deposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and
forty, a female sturgeon seven million six hundred and fifty-three
thousand two hundred. Many of the biviporous 'species bring
forth two or three hundred at a time, and their young, at the moment
they come into existence, commence sporting around their parent.
IN REFERENCE TO THE LONGEVITY OF FISHES. It is affirmed that
they surpass that of all other created beings, and it is supposed that
they are, to a great extent, exempt from the diseases which the
flesh of other animals is heir to. It is believed that the most minute
species has a longer lease of life than human beings, though the
ages of fishes has not properly been ascertained. In what light so-
ever we look at the habits of the finny tribe that migrate through
the different tracks of the ocean and have their homes in the
watery realm, in a solitary capacity or in multitudes which would
baffle the skill of the greatest mathematician to number, they are
alike wonderful to those who look from the thing created to the
benign Creator, who is as infinite as immeasurable in wisdom,
and consider with exalted admiration the sublime beauty, vari-
ety, power and grandeur of his productions, as manifested in the
handiwork of his boundless creation, and yet with due humility and
profound adoration call him our Father.
Fish as an article of human food in its nutritive capacity is infe-
rior to animal, or what is called butcher's meat, and has ever held a
secondary place in the science of gastronomy as a large element in
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH. 57
the happiness of mankind, and here I will give an extract from
Beeton's remarks on fish. " Among the Jews of old it was very little
used, a ! though it seems not to have been exactly interdicted, as
Moses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor
fins. The Egyptians, however, made fish an article of diet, not-
withstanding it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however, is
not a country favorable to the production of fish, though we read
of the people when hungry eating it raw, and of epicures among them,
having it dried."
FISH, AND How SPREAD OVER THE COUNTRY. The spawn is put
into balls of mud, which can be transported to any part of the
country and put in pools or lakes, either large or small, but the
small ones are the better. (This is a Chinese custom.) The fish
are fed on a very singular vegetable which grows on the surface
of the water and multiplies during the night time with almost in-
credible rapidity.
The larger fish consume in immense quantities a certain long
coarse grass which grows wild in hot places or by the margins of
ponds. This is thrown into the ponds, when the fish eat it at pleas-
ure. Artificial ponds can be made almost anywhere in China.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.
In carving fish the following directions apply :
IN CARVING SALMON. It is only necessary to take care to avoid
breaking the flakes unnecessarily by attempting to divide them at
right angles with the long axis of the fish. There is a great differ-
ence in the flavor of the back or thick part, and the thin part.
A cod's head and shoulders is a most troublesome dish to carve,
because if well boiled it looks whole until touched, and then it crum-
bles to pieces in the most trying way to the inexperienced carver.
As in the salmon, so here, the thick and thin parts are not equally
prized by all, and should be served according to choice, togeth-
er with many other titbits about the head. Close to the back
bone is the sound, the flavor of which is patronized by most peop'e,
though not by all, as is the case with the liver also, each of whi- h
should be divided into portions suited to the size of the party ana
their respective wishes onj.he subject.
Soles are carved much in the same way as Salmon, when they
are of any size, but small soles are completely divided into two
or three pieces by the knife, which requires a slight twist in order to do
this with ease; ladies with weak wrists have great difficulty in
effecting this seemingly simple operation, but some strength will en-
able any bungler to do it ; yet a little knack will make up for the
5$ REMARKS ON FISH.
deficiency in this regard, and place the delicate lady's hand on a
level with that of the most powerful man. The exact method, how-
ever, can scarcely be described, and must be watched and imitated
in order to insure its being caught by the learner. Some people pre-
fer to remove the whole of the flesh in the same way as in carving
turbot, but this only answers for the large soles.
Turbot requires peculiar carving, because unlike other fish its skin
and fins are thought a great delicacy. It is only necessary to carry
the blade of the knife down to the bone along the middle, and then
to make similar deep and clean cuts at right angles to this each way
to the fins, a portion of which should be separated and kept with
each square of fish, so as to avoid that hacking of the fins in pieces
afterwards, which is by no means slight. When this part is not ap-
proved of, it is very easy to leave the fin attached to the bones be-
low.
Mackerels are split at the tail and the upper half raised at that
part from the bones, after which the bone is removed from the lower
half of the fish, and that in its turn is served either in one piece or
divided into two, according to its size.
Many other small fish are carved much in the same way ; that is,
either serve them whole or divide them wilh the knife into sections,
according to size, the thick and thin part of the fish, and there-
fore most people like to be asked which part they prefer. This being
done, the knife is carried down the bone longitudinally and removes
a thick slice of either or both, according to choice.
VARIOUS REMARKS ON FISH.
If lemon juice can be had fish cooked in almost any fashion
should b'e served with it. It promotes health.
NOTE Tomato or Worcester catsup is a substitute, but not a very
good one.
Fish affords phosphorous for the brain, which it needs.
FISH, THE FLESH. -Is refreshing and often exciting, and as an
article of diet it should be more common than it is, as it tends to
purify the blood from the impurities it receives from partaking of
animal food. If taken at the commencement of a meal it tends to
promote digestion of those articles of food which form the more
solid portion of the meal.
RE-COOKING BOILED FISH. Cut into small pieces 2 Ibs. of cold
codfish, scald in 2 cups of sweet milk, then stir together 4 ozs.
of sweet butter and a tablespoonful of corn starch, the b'eaten
yolks of 3 eggs ; pepper and salt to taste. Butter a dish, then
put in first a layer of fish, then one of the starch mixture, and
REMARKS ON FISH. 59
thus continue, leaving the paste on the top. Bake 45 minutes in
a moderate oven.
TOM CODS. Are cooked very much as the smelts, not carved, and
are considered the most delicious fish in the market.
FLAVORING FOR FISH SAUCE. Take walnuts fit for pickling, pound
them, let them stand for 24 hours, then press the juice from them,
pour off the clear; to every pint of juice put i round of anchovies,
set it over the fire till the anchovies are dissolved, strain it and
add i ounce of shallots, 1-4 ounce of mace, 1-4 ounce of cloves
and of Jamaica pepper with 1-2 pint of the best pure fruit vinegar;
boil it 1-4 hour; when cold bottle for use. A large tablespoon-
ful is enough for nearly 1-2 pint of butter. It will keep good for
3 or 4 years. It is very good to put in brown gravies and hashes,
One hundred walnuts will make about i pint.
MODE OF COOKING FISH AT SEA, by French and Ilalian fishermen
on the Mediterranean. The fish is knocked in the head, and with-
out scaling or opening it the fisherman puts it over a clear charcoal
fire or upon a gridiron, where it remains till cooked, basting it with
sweet or olive oil. When sufficiently done, as soon as opened a
flood of its own juice gushes forth, and the entrails having become
hard, are taken out cleanly and thrown overboard.
CODFISH. Should not be allowed to boil, as that hardens it ;
remove the skin and place the fish in water, then cut it up and
simmer till tender.
To PRESERVE FISH FOR TRANSPORTATION. Take the fish fresh
from the water and fill the mouth with bread crumbs saturated with
brandy ; pour a little in the stomach ; pack in straw a short time af-
ter and it will keep for 10 days. When wanted for use put the fish
in fresh water. In a few hours they are ready.
To REMOVE THE SCALES FROM FISH. Lay the fish in a deep dish
or in the sink and pour souie scalding water over it, then take a knife
and remove the scales at pleasure; then clean and wash your fish.
Then cut up and put the pieces in the coldest water to harden them.
Then boil or fry them for 20 minutes, then season them with pep-
per, salt (oil if fried), lemon juice, chopped parsley and some grated
nutmeg. Turn the fish over several times in the seasoning, so that
it may be penetrated by it.
FISH AS A DIET. Dr. Merryweather says: A fish diet is a great
humanizer of the tempers of mankind. Its consumption tends won-
derfully to render them more kindly to one another, and consequently
'tames the passionate disposition to crime. As carnivorous animals
are always the most fierce and violent, so become human beings who
have carnivorous stomachs. Could such stomachs have an occa-
sional respite by the consumption of fish, the world would be the
60 TO COOK FISH.
better for it. I speak as a medical man, and firmly assert that many
maladies would be mitigated, and perhaps annihilated by such a pro-
cess.
HABITATION OF THE SALMON. Walton has styled the salmon the
"king of fresh water fish." It has never been found in warm lati-
tudes ; it lives in both .fresh and salt water.
PRESERVE THE SPAWN OF FISHES FOR TABLE USE. (Miss Hap-
per.) Pack them as fish in rock salt.
HOW TO COOK FISH.
CALADONIAN RECIPE FOR DRESSING FISH. Boil the livers of
the fish and make them into forcemeat as stuffing balls, without
meal, onions, pepper and salt ; put the water on with some cold
butter and whole onions, and when the onions are sufficiently
boiled put in the fish and stew them with their heads on, season-
ing with salt and cayenne pepper ; add the balls also.
BAKED FISH. After the fish is thoroughly cleaned, salt and pepper
well, then dredge thickly with flour or corn meal by turning the fish
in it ; cover the whole with lard by rubbing on with a spoon ; pour
water over the whole, say about i pint. Bake in a quick oven until
a nice, rich brown ; to be eaten with melted or drawn butter.
BROWN STEWED FISH AND SAUCE. Boil the frsh in an ordinary
fish pan, then make a sauce of 18 ginger crackers, i cup of molasses,
1-2 cup of good cider vinegar. Moisten plentifully with the boiled
fish water, throwing away the balance; boil till the crackers are soft,
then pour it over the fish in the pan and let it come to a boil, then
serve. Season to taste while cooking.
To STEW FISH. (Maison Dore.) Put into a sauce par) either
cold or hot water with a few slices of onions, carrots and a couple of
bay leaves or more, according to the size of your fish. Thyme,
cloves, whole peppers, some celery, a few sprigs of parsley chopped,
salt and vinegar. Let cook gently until the flesh comes easily from
the bones. To test it, have a thick needle, pass it through your fish,
let it remain just a few seconds. If warmed thoroughly when you take
it out the fish is done.
BOSTON FISH BALLS. Eight ounces codfish, 3 ounces chopped
suet, a small lump of butter, a teaspoonful of bread crumbs, pepper,
salt and nutmeg and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. Pound all
together in a mortar with an egg, divide into small cakes and fry
them.
YOUNG CODFISH ROASTED. Get the fish vender to dress -your
fish, salt and pepper it, spread flat on a board and confine it with
cords and stand the board up before a brisk fire to toast the fish;
TO COOK FISH. 6l
when sufficiently brown on one side untie it, and by means of a tin
sheet or dish turn it on a gridiron, that the other side may brown.
Do not break it in turning it over. Take up and pour hot melted
butter over it and serve hot. Other fish can be cooked in the same
way.
To BOIL COD. Cut off the tail, which should be useless before
the other part is done enough; rub well the inside, without
washing ; let it lie from one to two days and boil in plenty of water,
with a handful of salt; garnish with the boiled roe and liver, small
flounders, king or pan-fish nicely fried. The tail cut may lay in salt
for a few days and be boiled and served with egg sauce or parsnips
mashed with cream and butter, or may be broiled fresh or fried in
fillets or slices and served with oyster sauce, or a sauce made of 1-2
a pint of veal gravy, a glass of red wine, 2 king fish chopped, white
pepper, salt and a few pickled oysters and thickened with a little
flour worked in butter. Boil up and skim the sauce , place the
slices neatly on a dish and pour it around them ; garnish with slices
of lemon.
COD'S SOUNDS BOILED. Soak them 1-2 hour in water and vine-
gar with some lemon peel or two bay leaves, pepper and salt ; when
done cover it with a sauce made of melted butter, oysters, capers,
a teaspoonful of vinegar and a little cayenne pepper.
COD SOUNDS. They should be well soaked in salt and water and
thoroughly washed before dressing them. They are considered a
great delicacy, and may either be broiled, fried or boiled ; if boiled,
mix a little milk with the water.
FRESH CODFISH. Lay it in a kettle of cold water with salt and a
bit of saltpetre, and boil it till thoroughly done or breaks in flakes.
Serve with melted butter and any sauce you may prefer.
MY WAY TO COOK CODFISH. To i bowl (i pint) of codfish
picked fine, add 3 pints of cold water, put over the fire and heat or
boil five minutes, pour off the water and add to the fish while it is
hot i tablespoonful butter and 3 eggs, stir very quickly, and pepper
and salt to taste Serve hot.
COD A LA MAITRE DE HOTEL. Two slices of cod, 1-4 Ib. of butter,
a little chopped shallot and parsley ; pepper to taste ; 1-4 teaspoonful
grated nutmeg or rather less, when the flavor is not liked; the juice
of 4 lemons. Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or what is
better, flake it from the bone and take off the skin ; put it into a
stew-pan with the butter, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Melt
the butter gradually, and be yery careful that it does not become
like oil; when all is well mixed and thoroughly hot add the lemon
juice and serve. Use the remains of cold fish; cook 1-2 hour.
The employment of catching codfish is exceedingly fatiguing, owing
to the weight of the fish.
62 TO COOK FISH.
CODFISH FOR FRIDAY DINNER. One quart of picked codfish, i
pint of bread crumbs, i cup of cream, 1-4 Ib. butter, i teaspoonful
black pepper ; wash the fish thoroughly and soak over night in cold
water ; when ready to use pick it fine, put it in a baking-dish in layers
with the crumbs and pepper, adding a little mustard, if you like it,
over the top layer, which must be crumbed ; spread with softened
butter and pour the cream or new sweet milk over the whole and
bake 30 minutes.
FRIED COD. Flour the pieces and sprinkle cayenne pepper on
them and fry brown. Cotton seed oil is excellent to fry fish in.
To STEW COD. Season it high with pepper and salt, and add a
little wine and lemon juice, or some nice sauce with butter rolled in
flour.
To CRIMP COD. Lay small pieces in half vinegar and salt for 4
hours, then cook them in any way you may prefer boiled, fried or
broiledT
CODFISH BALLS. Boil 3 Ibs. of codfish slowly, after soaking it in
cold water the night before ; boil some large potatoes and
.mash them fine; while warm, add a large spoonful of butter, in the
'proportion of 1-3 codfish and 2-3 mashed potatoes, make it up with
4 eggs and a cup of milk, then make it with your hand as you would
a biscuit, about i inch thick, and fry brown in hot lard or salt pork.
Boil some eggs hard and cut them in halves and put a piece in the
center of each ball and send to table in a flat dish.
COD'S HEAD was stuffed with a quart of oysters, onions and a
bunch of sweet herbs, and the mouth firmly closed. From Crom-
well's Cook Book.
THE SAUCE FOR IT. Oyster liquor, 4 anchovies, sliced onion,
melted together in a pint of white wine! This was poured over the
cod's head ; a little nutmeg was then grated over the fish, when it
was served up, and the edges of the dish being garnished with slices
of lemon. Cromwell's Cook Book.
CODFISH PUFFS. (Mrs. B. Receipt the same as for codfish balls
put in an earthen baking dish ; smooth over the top and put on
some butter, then in a hot oven to bake
FLAKED FISH. Make a sauce by dredging some flout into 2 ozs.
of hot butter in a stew pan; add 1-2 Ib. of codfish nicely flaked, 2
spoonfuls of cold butter, a spoonful each of anchovy sauce and mixed
mustard, i teacupful of cream, some pepper, salt and a few bread
crumbs, make hot and serve as it is, or you may pour it into a but-
tered dish with the addition of a few bread crumbs and brown the
top in an oven.
SALT CODFISH. Sufficient water to cover the fish ; wash the nsn
and lay it all night in water with 1-4 pint of vinegar ; when thor-
TO COOK FISH. 63
oughly soaked take it out, see that it is perfectly clean and put in
the kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it. Heat it gradually,
but do not let it boil much, or the fish will be hard. Skim well, and
when done drain the fish and put it in a napkin garnished with hard
boiled eggs ; cut in rings.
SALT FOR BOILING FISH. Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of salt to every
quart of water; allow 15 or 20 minutes for boiling every pound of
fish.
In boiling fish it will sink to the bottom, and does not rise to
the surface till done. When it does so it is a sure sign that it is
sufficiently cooked.
SOAP ROOT AND FISH. The Indians use this bulb to catch fish
in very large quantities, finding the place where the trout collect
together in a hole in some stream. They beat up the soap root
and throw it in the water, which stupefies the fish and causes
them to float to the surface of the stream, when they may be
taken.
Flying fish come in the spring and leave in the fall ; abound in
the waters of the Santa Cruz coast. Cooked as herring.
HERRINGS BOILED. Boil very slowly 6 herrings 20 minutes in
plenty of salt and water, then make a sauce of 1-2 cup of sweet cream
in a sauce pan on the fire ; when it boils add a small cupful of new
milk and a spoonful of fresh butter, pepper and salt to taste, and the
juice of 1-2 a lemon ; place upon a dish, pour the boiling hot sauce
over and serve at once.
FRESH HERRINGS BROILED WITH DIJON SAUCE. Herrings can be
bread crumbed and fried, but they are better dressed in the follow-
ing fashion : Wipe them well with a clean cloth and cut three
incisions slantingly upon each side, then dip them in flour and
broil very slowly, when done sprinkle a little salt over, place
them on a napkin on a dish, then garnish with parsley and serve
with salad, or the following sauce in a boat, made in a stew-pan :
8 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 2 tablepoonfuls of French
mustard, or i of American or English, a tablespoonful of fresh
butter, a little pepper and salt ; when about to boil, serve.
BAKED HERRING. Scale, wash and dry them well in a cloth,
lay them on a board, pound some black pepper and cloves to-
gether, and mix them with 4 times the quantity of salt, and rub
the fish all over. Lay them straight in an earthen dish (a deep
dish is best) ; cover them with vinegar and a fe\v bay leaves.
Tie strong paper over the top of the dish and bake them in a
moderate oven for 1-2 an hour or longer. They are good eaten
either hot or cold, and will keep a long time if well covered.
Mackerel and trout may be dressed in the same way.
64 TO COOK FISH.
To FRY HERRING. If fresh, scale and dry them well, dredge
them with flour and fry them in butter or bacon grease; when done,
set their tails one against the other in the middle of the dish. Fry
crisp a handful of parsley, take it out before the color changes, lay
it around the herrings and serve them up with melted butter, parsley
and mustard. If the herrings are salt, soak them 24 hours, hang
them up to dry and fry them in lard.
To BROIL FRESH HERRINGS. Scale and wipe them perfectly
clean ; rub the bars of the gridiron with mutton suet or fat bacon ;
have a clear fire, lay them on, and when nicely browned turn them.
Serve very hot, with cold butter.
To BROIL SALT HERRINGS, MACKEUEL, ETC. When taken from
the brine wash them in two waters, and lay them in plenty of water
and let them soak for 6 hours. If very salt, which can be known by
tasting one of the fins, change the water. It is better to add 2 or 3
teaspoonfuls of vinegar. But if the fish are hard and dry, use a
tablespoonful of soda instead of the vinegar. When sufficiently
fresh, take them irom the water and wipe them well and dry. Have
your gridiron very clean by rubbing the bars bright, grease them
with suet or lard, but not too much, otherwise the grease wil drip on
the coals and impart a disagreeable odor and taste to the fish. The
gridiron should be hot, but not enough so as to scorch them ; there
should be no smoke or blaze about it. Lay the fish open, the skin
sides down ; turn ft once ; when done, place over it a hot dish ; re-
verse the gridiron ; pour 1-2 a cup of water over the fish. Let it
remain 5 minutes; pour off the water ;' butter and pepper it well;
garnish with hard-boiled eggs, sliced, or use egg sauce or season
with lemon juice or any flavored vinegar. The dish should be
served hot and sent to the table without delay. Worcestershire
sauce is an excellent seasoning.
FISH STOCK WITH HERRINGS CUT UP. Put the fish on in cold
water; when done, pour the water off, put butter on a tin plate,
then a layer of sliced Irish potatoes, chopped parsley and onions ;
then put on a layer of stock fish and the herrings, then a layer of
butter, pepper, salt, potatoes, onions and parsley, and continue till
the tin plate is full, and let the last layer be of the vegetables with
pepper and salt. Set in the oven and bake slowly.
To STEW MACKEREL. After removing the head, the fins and the
tail, open the fish and take out the hard roes and dry them with a
cloth, then dredge them lightly with flour, place three of them in a
stew-pan with a lump of butter the size of a black walnut to each
fish ; put into a small basin a teaspoonful of water, a tablespoonful
each of finely chopped onions and parsley, a blade or two of mace, a
little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of Anchovy essence, a small
TO COOK FISH. 65
teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter) ; add a tablespoonful of
grated bread crust toasted a light brown ; pour all these ingredients
over the fish, and let them stew gently for 20 minutes; have ready
the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten. When the fish is sufficiently done,
take up some of the gravy and mix gradually with the eggs, pouring
them on the fish ; shake the stew-pan a little over the fire to thicken
the whole, but not to curdle the eggs ; the soft roes added are an
improvement. Have ready more grated crust, and having placed
the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of the grated crust over the
whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown. If the gravy is too
thick, more water may be added, also a glass of sherry ^if liked. The
recipe should be carefully followed.
SOUSED MACKEUEL. Wash the mackerel clean, boil in salt and
water, then take it up ; take some of the boiled water and the same
quantity of vinegar, heat very hot with some whole peppers and
cloves, and pour it over the fish in an earthen or wooden vessel. In
three days it can be used.
FENNEL BUTTER OR SAUCE ESPECIALLY FOR MACKEREL. Mix a
good tablespoonful each of butter and flour with a wooden spoon,
so as to form a paste, before putting it on the fire, then add to it a
cupful of water, with an even teaspoon ful of salt, a good pinch of
black pepper ; set on the fire ; stir it constantly until it comes to a
boil, then add a heaped tablespoonful of fennel chopped fine, stir it
and set to boil a moment, then add a spoonful of butter. Serve hot
in a boat. If desired a spoonful of vinegar may be added.
BOILED MACKEREL. Boil in salt and water with fennel, parsley
or any piquant seasoning.
BAKED MACKEREL. 4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice, delicate
forcemeat, 2 spoonfuls of butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Clean
the fish ; take out the roes and fill up with forcemeat and sew up
the slit, flour, put them on a dish, heads and tails alternately, with
the roes between each layer, and put on some little pieces of but-
ter. Sufficient for 6 persons. Mackerel die as soon as taken from
the water.
To BOIL HERRINGS. Having scaled and cleaned the fish, dry
them well and rub them over with a little salt and vinegar. Fasten
the tails in their mouths and lay them in a fish plate. Put them in
the water as soon as it boils at.d let them remain 1 2 minutes. On
taking them up, let them drain, and then turn the heads into the
middle of the dish. Serve with butter and parsley and garnish with
scraped horseradish.
To FRY PIKE. Bone the Pike, cut the fillets in thin pieces,
dip them in egg and crumbs of bread, fry in hot fat.
BAKED PIKE. Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash and wipe
66 . TO COOK FISH.
it thoroughly dry, stuff it with force meat, sew it up, and fasten
the tail in the mouth by means of a skewer, brush it over with
egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and baste with butter before put-
ting it in the oven, which must be well heated. When the pike
is of a nice brown color cover it with buttered paper, as the out-
side would become too dry. If 2 are dressed a little variety may
be made by making one of them green with a little chopped pars-
ley mixed with the bread crumbs. Serve with melted butter. Baked
more or less than i hour.
To STEW PIKE. Make a browning with butter and flour and
put it into tlje pan with a pint of red wine, 4 cloves, 12 small
onions parboiled and some pepper and salt ; cut the fish in pieces
and stew the whole gently. When done take it out and add to it a
spoonful of capers chopped small and some walnut or tomato cat-
sup. Boil it a few minutes and pour it over the pike. Garnish with
fried bread.
CREAM SAUCE FOR BAKED PIKE. A couple slices of onion, salt,
2 ounces of butter and i pint of sour cream for 3 Ibs. of pike; bake
it in a hot oven for 20 minutes ; during the time baste several times
with its own broth ; stewed with bread crumbs and Parmesian
cheese. When done mix the sauce with a little vinegar and lemon
juice, pour it over the fish, taking out the bay leaf and slices of
onion.
To BOIL PIKE IN ITS OWN JUICE. It is better to dress it as soon
as taken from the water ; the pike are scalded, drawn and cut in
pieces or slices, then washed in cold water and put into a stew pan.
Then pour over a glass of white wine, add a few onions, some bay
leaves, salt, mace, some finely chopped anchovies ; cover it and
boil it together for 1-2 hour. When you dish it up take out the on-
ions and bay leaves. Put the fish on the dish and pour the gravy
over it.
CRIMPED SALMON. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at
many fashionable tables, but must be very fresh and cut into slices
2 or 3 inches thick. Lay these in cold salt and water for i hour ;
have ready some boiling water (6 ounces of salt to each gallon of
water) and well skimmed; put in the fish and simmer gently for 1-4
hour, or rather longer should it be very thick, garnish the same as
boiled salmon and serve with the same sauce. Cook 1-4 hour, more
or less, according to size.
N. B. Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the color and
taste of the fish.
SALMON CUTLET WITH CAPER SAUCE. Carefully remove the bones
and skin of a piece of salmon, then cut it into slices 1-2 inch thick
and flatten it on the chopping board with a cutlet but dipped in
TO COOK FISH. 67
water. Then cut these slices into uniform size, place them in a flat,
well buttered baking pan, sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and
10 or 12 minutes before wanted put them into the oven with a sheet
of buttered white paper over them. Put all the trimmings of the
salmon into a sauce pan with chopped carrots, onions, thyme, pars-
ley, a bay leaf, a few cloves, some whole pepper : salt to taste and a
little more than a pint of good stock. Leave this to boil gently till
reduced 1-2. then strain the liquor into a basin and remove any fat
that may be. Melt a piece of butter the size of a guinea's egg, add
to it a teaspoonlul ot flour and stir it on the fire till it is well colored,
Add the liquor to this and continue to stir until the sauce boils, then
add a heaped teaspoonful of capers ; pour the same over the capers
and serve.
To BOIL SALMON. Clean it carefully, boil it gently and take it
out of the water as soon as done. Let the water be warn) if the fish
be split. If under done it is very unwholesome. Shrimp or lob-
ster sauce.
IRISH PICKLE FOR SALMON. Equal parts of vinegar, white wine
and water. Boil it with white ginger, mace, cloves, pepper and horse-
radish. Take out the latter when sufficiently boiied arid pour the
pickle over the salmon previously boiled in strong salt and water.
YORKSHIUE RECIP;-: TO DRESS DKIKD SALMON. Pull some dried
salmon into flakes, have ready some hard boiled eggs chopped large,
put both into a pint of cream with 2 ounces of butter rubbed up
with a teaspoonful of flour ; skim it and stir till it boils, make a wall
of mashed potatoes round the dish and put the fish in the center.
To STEW SALMON. Half fry them in butter after cutting it in
nice pieces, then take them out and put into the pan a quart of wa-
ter and a sliced onion, replace the fish in the pan and let them stew
gently for 20 minutes or 1-2 hour, according to size. When taken
out squeeze a lemon over the pan and thicken the liquor with but-
ter and flour. Having given it a boil, strain it through a hair sieve
over the fish and serve with oyster and shrimp sauce. Several
kinds of fish may be done in the same manner. Scraped horse-
radish, sippets of bread and fine parsley may be served with it.
SALMON CREAM. When you open your can pour off all the liquid,
fill it with boiling water, seasoned with 1-2 a teaspoonful of salt;
then set the can in a vessel of boiling water and let it heat through ;
shred the fish, allowing i Ib. of fish to each pint of milk and 2 ozs.
butter stirred into i spoonful of flour; boil the milk, rub the flour
and butter together. If liked, boil an onion in the milk, then strain
it out, then stir the flour and butter into the hot milk, boil till thick,
season to taste with pepper and salt ; pour into a pudding dish, then
some white sauce, sprinkle over some bread crumbs and thus con-
68 TO COOK FISH.
tinue till the dish is full. Let the last layer be of crumbs, then bake
a nice brown on the top.
To DRESS SHAD. One shad, oil, pepper and salt; scale, empty
and wash the fish carefully and make 2 or 3 incisions up the back ;
season with pepper and salt and let it remain in oil 1-2 an hour;
broil it on both sides over a clear fire and serve-with caper sauce.
BAKED SHAD (M. H.'s Recipe). Clean, wash and wipe the fish,
which should be a large one; make a stufl&ng-of bread crumbs
steeped in sweet milk, butter, salt, pepper and sweet herbs moistened
with beaten eggs ; stuff the shad and sew it up. Lay it in the bak-
ing-pan with a cupful of water to keep it from burning and bake an
hour, basting with butter and water until it is tender throughout and
well browned. Take it up, put it in a hot dish and cover tightly,
while you boil the gravy with a great spoonful of catsup, a table-
spoonful of browned flour, which has been wet with cold water, the
juice of a lemon, if you wish to have it very fine, a glass of sherry
or madeira, garnish with sliced lemon and water cresses. You may
put the gravy around the fish or serve in a sauce-boat. Of course
you take out the thread with which it has been sewed up before serv-
ing the fish.
MRS. HALE'S RECIPE FOR BROILINU SHAD. Empty and wash
the fish with care. Do not open it more than necessary to do
this ; fill it with forcemeat and its own roe. Oysters are good
when in season ; sew it up ; fasten it with fine skewers securely :
wrap it thickly with buttered paper; broil gently over solid coals,
without the least smoke, for one hour Or one of medium size may
be broiled on a gridiron in 20 minutes. Serve upon a hot dish, and
lay a good piece of butter upon the dish.
BOILED FRESH SHAD. Clean, wash and wipe the best roe shad,
cleanse the roes thoroughly, and, after sailing both fish and roes,
wrap them in separate cloths and lay them side by side in the fish
kettle, covered with salt and water, and in proportion to their sizo,
boil them for 1-2 or 3-4 of an hour. Serve upon a hot dish. Lay
the roes around the fish and pour over drawn butter mingled with
chopped eggs and parsley, or e_;g sauce. Garnish with capers, or
'nasturtium flowers, or p >d<, and s : !ces of hard boile 1 eggs.
To FRY SHAD. Clean them ihorougtyy ; cut in slices of the proper
size to help at the table; wipe them dry. Beat one or two eggs
well together, and with an egg-brush put the egg evenly over the fish,
or the pieces may be dipped in the egg. Be sure that every part is
covered with the beaten egg. Roll them in bread crumbs. Shak
off the loose crumbs and fry in hot lard. Fry the thick parts a feu
minutes before putting on the thin. Have plenty of lard to cover
the fish. Do not put in till the lard boils, or the fish will not be firm
TO COOK FISH. 69
and crisp. If there are eggs or roe, fry them. Shad and other fish
may be rolled in corn meal, sifted fine, or in flour, before being fried.
Either way is good. This recipe will do for frying any kind of fish.
SHAD AXD ROCK ROES. These may be fried in hot lard, or beaten
up with eggs and fried in small cakes. If boiled, wrap them up in a
cloth and throw th^in in boiling, and dress with butter sauce.
BAKBECUED SHAD. Take a fine, large shad, put it in a pan and
season with cayenne pepper and a small teaspoonful of sugar ; put
one large spoonful of butter and lard mixed, on it, and a little salt.
Mix vinegar and water, equal parts; and pour on enough to cover it.
ilake slowly for one hour.
PICKLED SHAD. Two gallons of rock salt, 1-2 gallon alum salt, i
Ib. of brown sugar and 4 oz. saltpetre. This is sufficient for two
dozen shad, if large ; then commence by putting first a layer of the
salt, powdered and well mixed, at the bottom of the barrel, then the
well-cleaned shad, the skin side downward, then another layer of
salt, and thus continue till you have used all the ingredients, then put
the salt last, and press the whole down with a board and weight on
the top. Look at it in a week; if there is not brine, make some
more and put it over the shad. N. B. If the fish is not clean it
will draw flies.
CORNED SHAD. Clean, wash well and split open a fresh shad ;
mix i teaspoonful cayenne pepper and i of brown sugar; lay the
shad upon a flat dish and rub it gently on the inside with pepper and
sugar. Next morning broil nicely, and put bits of butter on it, and
you will find it superior to salt corned shad.
BAKED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S HEAD. Prepare a stuffing of pepper,
salt, butter, a bit of fat sweet bacon, mince fine an onion, shallot,
bread crumbs and the yolks of 2 eggs. After rubbing the fish with
butter, and sprinkled pepper and salt on it, place it in the
stew-pan or a long tin pan, bake it until it is thoroughly done.
To BOIL TUKBOT. Must be for boiling in the nicest order and of
the proper size; the fish must be set in sufficient cold water to cover
it all over completely ; throw a handful of salt and a glass of vinegar
into it, and let it gradually boil; be very careful to skim it thoroughly,
so that nothing remains to mar the beauty of the color. Serve it
garnished with a complete fringe 'of curled parsley, lemon and horse-
radish. The sauce must be of the finest lobster, bloater butter and
plain butter, served in separate tureens.
TUKBUT A LA CkEME (Mrs. F. B. L.). Add by degrees a table-
spoonful of flour stirred up with a small portion of milk till perfectly
smooth, then gradually stir it into a quart of milk in a stew-pan on
the fire, then put in a teaspoonful each of chopped onion, parsley,
salt, some red pepper. Stir over the fire until it becomes a little
7O STEWS, ETC.
thick, then add a large tablespoonful of butter. Lay a little of this
sauce on the bottom of a dish, then a layer of fish, picked free from
the bones, alternately, until all your material is used up Sprinkle
bread crumbs over the top and bake 1-2 hour. Any kind of cold fish
will do.
FttOGS.
STEWED FROGS. After skinning the hind legs, parboil them a few
minutes, then fry them a light brown in butter, after dipping them
in flour. Chop a little thyme, parsley, a little pepper and salt, an
onion or garlic sliced fine, mix the whole in a little wine vinegar and
water and pour it on the frogs and stew till tender; add the yolk of
one beaten eg-; to each frog and serve them hot. It is equal to or
better than chicken, fur I ate them several times without knowing it,
believing that it was the best prepared chicken I had ever eaten,
while a passenger on an Oriental and Peninsular steamer.
FRIED FROGS. Wash' the hind legs of some frogs, clean and dry
them. Mix together some salt, pepper and finely-chopped parsley
and strew the mixture over the frogs. Let them stand for a few
minutes, then turn them in flour, beaten up egg and finely-grated
bread crumbs in the same manner as calves' brains, and finish in the
same way.
EELS.
STEWED EELS. Cut 2 Ibs. of eels 4 inches long, put in a stew pan
with one large onion, some parsley, a teaspoonful of mace and all-
spice together, 1-2 pint of port wine and 1-2 pint of gravy; a small
portion of bloater paste, 2 spoonfuls of mushroom catsup ; let them
stew 3-4 of an hour, strain the gravy, thicken it, add salt and pep-
per with the juice of 1-2 lemon, boil it 5 minutes, add the eel and 12
buttons of onions, boil till tender. Trout and salmon may be dressed
in the same way.
To FRY EELS. Clean them thoroughly, cut them in pieces, sea-
son them with, pepper and salt, beat up an egg and dip the-eels
therein, after which strew some crumbs over them, then fl< ur and fry
them in butler or lard; strain them when done and serve them
with plain butter, the juice of a lemon or parsley and butter; gar-
nish with crisped parsley.
CHOWDERS.
CHOWDER No. i (Common sense.) Take i pound of salt pork,
cut it into strips and soak in hot water 6 minutes, cover the bottom
of the pot with a layer of this ; cut 4 Ibs. of cod or sea bass into
OYSTERS. 71
pieces 2 inches square and lay enough of these on the pork to cover
it, follow with a layer of chopped onions, a little parsley, summer
savory and pepper, either black or cayenne, then a layer of but-
ter crackers, or whole cream crackers which have been soaked
in warm water until moist through, but not ready to break. Above
this lay a stratum of pork and repeat in the order as above : onions,
seasoning (not too much), crackers and pork until your materials
are exhausted. Let the topmost layer be butter crackers well
soaked. Pour in enough cold water to cover all barely ; cover the
pot, stew gently for i hour, watching that the water does not sink
too low. Should it leave the upper layer exposed replenish cau-
tiously from the boiling tea kettle ; when the chowder is thoroughly
done take out with a perforated skimmer and put into a tureen.
Thicken the gravy with a tablespoonful of flour and about the same
quantity of butter. Boil up and pour over the chowder. Send
sliced lemon, pickles and stewed tomatoes to table with it, which the
guests may add if they like.
CATFISH CHOWDER (common sense.) Skin, clean and cut off the
heads. Cut the fish into pieces 2 inches long and put into a pot
with some fat pork cut into shreds ;' a pound to a dozen medium
sized fish, 2 chopped onions, or 1-2 dozen shallots, a bunch of sweet
herbs and pepper. The pork will salt it sufficiedtly ; ste\v slowly
for 3-4 hour, then stir in a cup of milk thickened with a tablespoon-
Jill of flour ; take up a cupful of the hot liquor and stir a little at a
time, into 2 well beaten eggs. Return thh to the pot, throw in 1-2
dozen soda or butter crackers split in half, let all boil up once and
turn into a tureen. Pass sliced lemon or cucumber pickles, also
sliced, with it. Take out the backbones before serving.
CHOWDER (Southern.) Fry in a large pot some pieces of fat pork
well seasoned with pepper; when done remove the pork and put in
some siices peeled onions, then some fresh fish, catfish, rock sea bass,
codfish, pike or halibut, with a layer of sliced Irish potatoes ; add
i pint of milk thickened with a little flour.
OYSTERS.
OYSTER CULTIVATION. Interior salt lakes are favorable to the cul-
tivation of the oyster, and for this purpose the ancients resorted
to them. To arrest the drifting ova, hurdles of brush, turf, walls
of stone and enclosures of posts were used, as the ova will attach
itself to anything by a calculus growth emanating from the shell
itself. Tranquil waters are best. The French use sluices covered
with a cement stuck in the oyster beds. They thrive better in a
semi-tropical climate. The Lynn Haven bay oysters and Ceylon oys-
72 OYSTERS.
ters are the largest and best known, and might be cultivated with suc-
cess in the salt marshes and peaceful coves, and salt inlets of the
Pacific coast, as it is done on the Atlantic.
To STEW OYSTERS. Plump, juicy oysters alone will stew to ad-
vantage. When opened pick them out, beard and wash them in
their own liquor and strain repeatedly. Put them into an enamelled
sauce pan or one of bell-metal, with a little mace and lemon
peel and a few pepper corns, a little butter kneaded in flour and
a glass 'of cream or Champagne if for a high relish, in which
case a very little parsley or onion, and cayenne may be added.
Cover and simmer the oysters very gently for 5 minutes, lift them
up with a silver, wooden or porcelain ladle into a deep hot dish with
toasted slices of bread in it and strain the sauce over them.
To STEW OYSTERS IN FRENCH ROLLS. Wash the oysters in their
own liquor, then strain and put them in again with salt, ground pep-
per, beaten mace and grated nutmeg ; stew these together for a
short time and thicken the whole with butter. Cut off the tops of a
few French rolls and take out as much of the crumb as to admit
some of the oysters, filling them in boiling hot. Then set them ove-.
a stove or chafing dish till they are heated through, filling them up
with more liquor or gravy as the fish is absorbed. Serve them up as
puddings.
OYSTERS STEWED (home fashion.) Take i dozen large oysters in
their liquor, bring them to a boil, add salt and pepper and a piece
of butter about the size of a nutmeg, add 1-2 teaspoonful of spiced
vinegar and serve with cracker and biscuit.
STEAK WITH OYSTEUS. Cut the steak rather thick, brown it in a
frying pan with butter, add 1-2 pint of water, an onion sliced, pep-
per and salt, cover the pan close and let it stew very slowly for one
hour, then add a glass of port wine, a little flour and a dozen or two
of oysters, their liquor having been previously strained and put into
the stew pan.
To STEW OYSTERS. Open the can at the bottom, take the oys-
ters out carefully, separate the liquor from the oysters and put it in a
stew pan ; then adding with a sufficient quantity of milk, a lump of
butter and a little black pepper and salt. Stir the mixture well and
let it boil, then put the oysters in the pan until thoroughly heated ;
then serve them up.
CREAM OYSTER PIE. (B. S. T.) Line a pie plate with good puff
paste, fill it with slices of stale bread laid evenly within it, butter that
part of the crust lining the rim of the dish and cover with atop crust.
Bake quickly in a brisk oven while still hot, dexterously and carefully
lift the upper crust, and the buttered rim will cause it to separate easily
from the lower. Have ready a mixture of minced oysters and thick
OYSTERS. 73
ened cream prepared according to the foregoing receipt, and having
taken out the stale bread (put there to keep the top crust in shape,)
fill the pie with the oyster cream, replace the cover and set in the
oven a few minutes or until hot, and serve. This is a nice luncheon
dish and not amiss for supper.
OYSTERS ESCOLOPED. Put 24 oysters in a stew pan with their
liquor, set on the stove ; when a little firm put them to drain upon
a sieve, catching the liquor in another stew pan. Remove the beards
from the oysters and throw them again into their liquor; add one half
blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and when boiling add a
piece of butter the size of a walnut with which you have mixed a
teaspoonful of flour; shake over the fire until it becomes thick, season
with a little cayenne and a pinch of salt, if liked, have an escalop
shell well buttered and bread-crumbed, place the oysters in, sprinkle
over bread crumbs or cracker powder, set in the stove 1-4 hour, pass
the salamander over and serve. The yolks of eggs may be added
and less flour.
To STEW OYSTERS (A Maryland receipt.) Use no water, but
cook gently ; stew in their own juice in a sauce pan. Allow a piece
of butter the size of a walnut to every dozen oysters, pepper and
salt, 2 bay leaves, a blade or more of mace ; simmer for five min-
utes, add a gill of cream, shake them well together, turn them out,
and as they lie in the saucer grate a little nutmeg on each oyster.
STEWED OYSTERS (Mrs. Andrews.) Mix 1-2 cup of butter and
i tablespoonful of corn starch, put the oysters in a porcelain kettle,
stir until they boil and add 2 cups of cream or milk ; salt to taste.
In stewing do not use the oyster liquor.
OYSTER PATTIES. (Mrs. Orton.) Stew the oysters, take the broth
and allow the yolk of i egg to every dozen oysters, turn off the broth
and add the eggs ; let it come to a boil, then turn back the oysters
ROASTED OYSTERS (Mexican receipt.) Collect your oysters from
the bed and roast them over a quick fire till they become dry but not
parched, turn them out on a metalic piate without any liquor, use
no salt, add heaped tablespoonful of butter, set the plate over a bra-
zier of coals or spirit lamp. When the butter is melted add a gill of
Madeira wine and pepper to taste.
ROAST LYNN HAVEN OYSTERS. While alive place the oysters in a
shell upon a good fire (of coals is the best) let them remain till
the shells begin to open, then take them off, open them on a plate.
For seasoning use only pepper and salt. Prepared thus they are ex-
cellent for delicate stomachs.
BROILED OYSTERS. Wipe them dry, dip each one in the beaten
yolk of an egg, roll in very fine bread or cracker crumbs, first sea-
soning them with salt and pepper. Have ready pieces of well but-
74 OYSTERS.
tered foolscap paper, cut large enough to roll each oyster in a separ-
ate piece, twist the ends securely and lay them on a gridiron suffi-
ciently elevated to secure them from scorching till hot. Have ready
the dish upon which they are to be served hot with a tablespoonful
of butter; turn upon it the oysters, roll them in the butter and serve
immediately. Use an extempore seasoning of cider vinegar,
lemon juice, or celery vinegar, as may be preferred.
NORFOLK RECIPK FOR FRYING OYSTERS. Dip the oysters into the
yolk of an egg, and afterwards roU them in bread crumbs or corn
meal and fry them in hot lard. Each oyster should be wiped dry
before dipping it into the egg or bread crumbs. If gravy should be
liked, pour a little of the oyster liquor in, just let it come to a boil
and serve at once in a sauce boat. Gravy should never be poured
over anything fried in bu f ter. It injures its appearance. Always
choose the largest oysters for frying.
SPICED OYSTERS. One hundred oysters, i dozen cloves, 2 dozen
allspice, mace, cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Strain the liquor
through a sieve, put it into a sauce-pan, add the oysters, spice, pep-
per, salt and 1-2 pint of good cider vinegar. Place them over a
slow fire, and as soon as they boil take them up and pour them into a
large bowl and set to cool. When cold, cover close.
To PICKLE OYSTERS. Drain off the liquor from too oysters,
wash them and put to them a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful
of cider vinegar. Let them simmer over the fire for 10 minutes,
taking off the scum as it rises, then take out the oysters and put to
their own liquor a tablespoonful of whole black pepper, a teaspoon-
ful of mace and cloves. Let it boil 5 minutes, skim and pour over
the oysters in a jar.
OYSTERS A LA CREME (Mrs. Legeon) One quart of oysters, i
pint of cream, put the oysters in a double kettle, cook until the milky
juice begins to flow out; drain the oysters in a colander ; put the
cream on in the same way ; when it comes to a boil, thicken with
flour wet with milk, as thick as corn starch ready to mould; then
put in the oysters and cook 5 minutes/ Serve hot on toast.
OYSTERS BOILED IN THE SH^LL. Take large, unopened shell oys-
ters, scrape and wash very clean. Have ready a kettle of boiling
water on the fire; then, in a- dish have melted butter, with minced
parsley, a lemon cut in two on a small flat dish ; carefully put the
oysters, one by one, into the hard boiling water. Let them remain
4 or 5 minutes, then pour off all the water by inverting the kettle
over a large colander, then wipe the shells dry and send them to the
table on a hot dish ; put a little hot liquid butter over each, with
pepper ; squeeze over a little lemon juice before eating it from the
shell.
CRABS, ETC. 75
BROILED OYSTERS. One quart of the finest and largest oysters
that you can obtain, 1-2 cup of bread dust or cracker powder, sifted,
i 1-2 heaped tablespoonfuis of melted butter, pepper to suit. Lay
the oysters on a clean cloth and cover with another to dry them ; dip
one at a time in the melted and peppered butter, turn them over and
over in the bread crumbs and broil upon an oyster wire gridiron
over a clear fire. The oysters can be turned when one side is done.
They \vi.i be done in 5 or 6 minutes, then, in a hot dish containing
the peppered butter, lay the oysters and send them to table hot.
DEVILED OYSTERS. Half gallon oysters, some cayenne pepper,
lemon juice, and enough melted butter to suit, 2 eggs beaten very
light, i cup of cracker powder; wipe the oysters dry and lay them
on a flat dish. Then mix the melted butter, cayenne pepper and
lemon juice, and pour over the oysters, turn them irequently in the
preparation, rolled first in the beaten eggs, and then in the bread pow-
der; put in your frying-pan an equal proportion of lard and butter
made very hot, then dip in your oysters. In the mixture pepper-
sauce may be substituted for cayenne pepper.
OYS i ;;R PATTIKS. Mince, with a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, a
quart of oysters very fine, a large spoonful of melted butter in a cup-
tul of new cream or milk, and thicken with a teaspoonful of rice
flour made into a paste with cold milk ; salt and pepper to relish.
When the oysters are thoroughly drained, mince them as directed.
In the boiled and thickened milk, and the butter well pervading it,
add and stir in the minced oysters, stirring constantly, and let them
stew for five minutes. Having filled your shapes with a nicely-
baked pastry crust, pour in your oyster mixture and set in the stove
for 2 or 3 minutes to heat thoroughly and send to the table immedi-
ately.
CEABS, Etc,
To BOIL CRABS. Boil them a moment; pick out all the meat,
and, mixing it with a teaspoonful of salad oil, French mustard, cay-
enne, white or black pepper and salt, serve it in the shell or on a
plate.
BOILKD CRABS. Take thirty of the largest crabs you can procure,
wash them and put them into a suitable pan with 2 oz butter, a
handful of whole parsley ; now pour over them a ladleful of boiling
vinegar or wine ; cover the pan, boil the crabs 10 minutes, when
they will have acquired a pretty red color; dish them on a napkin,
ornament them with fresh parsley and send them to the table as hot-
as possible.
STEAMED CRABS. Cut up crabs. Have a pot ready with 2 or
76 LOBSTERS.
3 tablespoonfuls of boiling lard; stir in a handful oi onions cut fine ;
when brown, stir in a couple of tablespoonfuls flour, then throw in
the crabs and stir until almost dry. Then add enough boiling water
to cover up to steam. Keep the cover on tightly until done.
How TO COOK CRABS. Pick the flesh from the crabs, then make
a forcemeat of 3 or 4 hard boiled eggs cut very finely, with some red
pepper (the inside), that has been boiled and chopped, some salt, on-
ions minced and half-cooked, then add the boiled and minced crab,
the eggs, a little butter or sweet lard. Mix well and stuff the well
washed shells of the crabs and bake it.
To STEW MUSCLES. Wash in several waters, put them into, a stew
pan and cover them closely. Let them stew till the shells open, then
pick out the fish and examine under the tongue of each to see if there
be a small crab, and if there is, throw it away. Pick out likewise the
tough membrane under the tongue. Then put the muscles into a
stew-pan, adding to every quart of fish 1-2 pint of the liquor strained
through a sieve. Put in a few blades of mace, a piece of butter
rolled in flour, and stew them gently. Lay some toasted bread in
the dish, pour the muscles on it and serve them up.
LOBSTERS.
When this dish was to be served for. the table among the ancients
it was spread lengthwise and filled with a gravy composed of corian-
der and pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked,
while it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with which the
flesh was being impregnated.
To STEW LOBSTKRS. Pick out the meat and put it into a dish;
add a little butter, 2 spoonfuls of gravy, i spoonful of
cayenne pepper or walnut catsup some salt, black pepper and a
spoonful of port wine. Stew the lobster with the gravy.
LOBSTER BOILED Boil it plain, then secure the crustacea, put in
a dish or bowl and serve with a dressing of olive oil, vinegar or lem-
on juice, salt and cayenne pepper, stir well, and a little chopped head
of lettuce may be added.
LOBSTER CUTLETS. Cut the lobster in slices, letting the flesh weigh
about 1-2 lb., when done put in a pan 2 oz. butter, 2 teaspoon-
fuls chopped onions ; put all on the fire, fry for 2 minutes, add
1-2 pint of milk; season with salt, pepper and i salt-spoonful of
cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls chopped parsley ; let it boil for a minute
or two, stirring all the time ; add your lobster and give it a boil ;
add 2 yolks of eggs ; mix quickly, put on a dish to cool ; when
quite cool and firm, divide in 6 parts, give each the shape of a
small cutlet ; egg and bread crumb twice. Put a piece of the
GRAVIES. 77
very small claw to the end of each cutlet, so as to form a bone;
fry for a few minutes, like you would a sole, in plenty of fat;
lay on a cloth and serve on a napkin with plenty of fried pars-
ley. You may adopt any shape you choose, if cutlets are too
troublesome, as you would croquettes. No sauce is requisite. The
lobster, in the preceding recipe, may be prepared, shaped and
bread crumbed hours before wanted.
LOBSTKR BOILKD. Allow r-2 a Ib. of salt to every gallon of
water, and t^en put a number of the lobsters in one basket and put
a weight on it to keep them down. Do not cook them too much or
they may become tough.
To BOIL LOBSTERS. As the dealers often starve them, by which
means they are very unsavory, consequently, it is advisable to pur-
chase them alive. Choose the most active, and of a middling size,
but avoid such as have their shell incrusted, for it is a sign that they
are old. The male is best to eat, and the female for sauce. Set on
a pot with tablespoonful of salt to a quart of \\akr, and when it
boils, put in the lobster and keep it boiling briskly for i-? an hour or
i hour, according to size. Wipe off the scum and rub the shell with
oil or buttter, break off the great claws, crack them at the joints, so
as not to shatter them, cut the tail down the middle and send up the
body entire. N. B. Lobsters are not good in spawning season.
GRAVIES.
To DRAW BEF.F GRAVY. Cup up any coarse beef as thin as pos-
sible, put it into a stew-pan, cover it, put no water or butter in
it, but throw over it a few grains of salt, put it at the side of
the fire till the gravy oozes from the meat and -glazes on the
bottom of the pan ; then pour in as much hot broth as will cover
the meat, and let it stew until all the juice is extracted. This
juice gravy may afterwards be enriched by seasoning, or flavored
with herbs, but if not wanted immediately it should be set aside
to cool, and the fat which may collect over it should not be re-
moved until the gravy is wanted.
ECONOMICAL GRAVY FOR POULTKY. Wash the feet nicely and cut
them and the neck small ; simmer them with a little bread browned,
a slice of onion, a bit of parsley and thyme, some pepper and
salt and the liver and gizzard in i gill of water, until 1-2 reduced ;
take out the liver, bruise and strain the liquor from it, then thicken
it with flour and butter; add a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup
and it will be very good.
VEAL GRAVY is made like brown gravy, leaving out the spices,
herbs and flour.
78 GRAVIES.
GRAVY WHICH GIVES VENISON FLAVOR TO MUTTON. Pick a stale
wild fowl, cut it to pieces, after cleansing it, and simmer with as
much unseasoned meat gravy as is necessary. Strain it and serve
it in the dish with the mutton.
GRAVY for fried chicken is made in the same may, only adding
pinched parsley leaves, then pour over the chicken in a dish. It is
very nice.
GUAVY FOR WILD FOWL. To i wineglass of port wine add a ta-
blespoonful of walnut catsup, mushroom catsup, tomato catsup and
lemon juice, i shallot or onion, a piece of lemon peel and a blade of
mace ; these should be scalded, strained and added to the pure
gravy that comes from the fowl in roasting. The breast of the fowl
should be scored in 3 or 4 places, and the gravy poured boiling hot
over it before it is sent to the table.
STRONG FISH GRAVY. After cleaning 2 or 3 fish, gut and wash
them very clean, cut them into small pieces and put them into a
sauce-pan ; cover them with water and add a little crust of bread
toasted brown, 2 blades of mace, some whole peppers, parsley,
thyme and sage, apiece of lemon peel, 2 smelts chopped fine and a
teaspoonful of rasped horseradish. Cover closely and simmer ; add
a bit of butter and flour and boil with the above.
BROWN GRAVY? Lay over the bottom of a stew-pan as much lean
veal as will cover it an inch thick, then cover the veal with thin slices
of undressed gammon, 2 or 3 onions, 2- or 3 bay leaves or a sprig of
sw..tt myrtle, some parsley, thyme, sage, mint, 2 or 3 blades of mace
and 3 cloves ; cover the stew-pan and set it over a slow fire, but
when the juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker ; when the
meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good beef broth, boil and
skim it, then simmer an hour and add a little water mixed with as
much flour as will make it properly thick; boil it 1-2 an hour and
strain it.
CARUIKL OR BURNED SUGAR. The utensils used can be of no
service afterwards. Any old tin cup or ladle is good for this pur-
pose. White is better than brown sugar, having a finer flavor. Put
2 oz. sugar over a rather sharp fire ; stir with a stick till it is black
and begins to send forth a burning smell. Add a gill or so of cold
water, stir and boil gently 4 or 5 minutes, take off, cool and bottle
for use. It will keep for weeks, and may be used hot or cold.
BROWMNG FOR GRAVIES, SOUPS, ETC. Lump sugar dissolved,
2 1-2 Ibs. ; solid oil, 1-2 Ib. ; heat in an iron vessel until quite brown,
then add California port wine, 4 cupfuls ; Cape wine, 3 quarts ; shal-
lot, 6 oz. ; mixed spices, 4 oz ; black pepper, 3 oz. ; salt, 3-4 Ib. ;
mace, i oz. ; lemon juice, 1-2 pint; catsup, i quart. This can be
kept in closely covered jars or bottles to be used when wanted.
GRAVIES. 79
To CLARIFY DRIPPING. Put the dripping into a basin, pour over
it the boiling water, in which a teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved,
and keep stirring the whole to wash away impurities. Let it stand
to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will settle at the bottom,
and the grease rise to the top. Repeat this operation at least twice
with fresh water. When cold remove the dripping from the water
and melt it into jars.
OSMAZOME is the essence or gravy of meat when cooked.
To MAKE chestnut or almond gravy for any kind of fowl, allow 1-2
Ib. of the nuts, blanched and peeled, to 2 coffee cups of rich veal
soup, i cupful of new milk, a salt spoonful of salt and cayenne pep-
per, 1-2 peel of a good lemon cut in thin shreds, and then chopped
fine. Put all together and boil very slowly and gently until the nut
kernels are soft; then force it through a sieve and pour in milk or
cream, with spice, nutmeg and one beaten clove ; then let it warm
slowly again when coming to a boil, stirring it all the time.
GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES. The recipes for custard sauce.
Dutch sauce for fish or for pickling eggs, will answer very well for
the basis of many gravies, unless they are required to be very rich.
The stocks referred to may be made into very good gravies by add-
ing various store sauces, thickening and flavoring. Spices, wines
and flavorings should not be added until they are wanted, as their
goodness, strength and a great deal of their fragrance evaporates if
used long before wanted, as with long boiling the flavoring must al-
most entirely pass away. A great deal is thus saved if this point is
attended to. Shank bones of mutton previously soaked will aid
very materially in enriching gravies. Trimmings of meat, beef skin,
a smelt or kidney, etc., will answer very well when only a small quantity
is required. A good gravy need not necessarily be so expensive, for
economically prepared dishes are often found as savory, palatable
and wholesome as more expensive ones. The cook should bear in
mind that the fragrance of spices should not prevail over the gravies.
The remains of most meat gravy should always be saved, as, when
no gravy is at hand, a very nice gravy in haste may be made from
it, and when added to hashes, ragouts, etc., is a great improvement.
GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. Put a common dish with a small quan-
tity of salt in it under the meat, about 1-4 hour before it is removed
from the fire ; when the dish is full take it away, baste the meat and
pour the gravy into the dish in which the joint is to be served.
HAM GRAVY. When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat
clean from the bone, leaving out any rusty part; beat the meat and
the bone to a mash with a chopper and rollingpin ; put it in a sauce-
pan with 3 spoonfuls of gravy ; set it over a slow fire and stir it all
the time, or it will stick to the bottom ; when it has been on for some
8O TURTLES.
time, put in some parsley, thyme, celery, some pepper and 1-2 pint
of beef gravy ; cover it up and let it stew over a gentle fire ; when
it has a good flavor of the bacon strain off the gravy. A little of
this is an improvement to all gravies.
GRAVY FOR FRIED HAM. After frying the bacon slices, take them
up and have some new milk or cream to stir in the grease while hot,
or it is best to stir in i teaspoonful of dry flour before adding the
milk with a small portion of black pepper and a pinch of salt. Four
this over the ham. Some like a little minced tops of green shallots
added to the gravy.
CLEAR GRAVY. Slice beef thin ; broil a part of it over a a very
clear, quick fire, just enough to give color to the gravy, but not to
dress it ; put that and the raw part into a very nicely tinned stew-
pan with 2 onions, a clove or two, whole black peppers, berries of
allspice, parsley, thyme and a small bit of sage ; cover it with hot
water, give it one boil and skim it well two or three times ; cover it and
simmer till quite strong.
TURTLES.
The mud tortoise and terrapins lay a great many eggs. Their
flesh is often eaten.
The river tortoise has a soft shell. Their flesh is much esteemed.
They deposit from 50 to 60 eggs in one night on the shores of
the Amazon. They dig with their paws a hole 3 feet deep in the
sand to deposit their eggs, about 120 in number, cover them over
with the sand, a second deposit, and so on, till the hole or pit is full,
which contains 300 to 400 eggs, which takes 14 days. The turtle eggs
are much esteemed for their richness and flavor. The soft flesh of
the sea turtle is healthy and nourishing. The fat of many species,
when fresh, is used as a substitute for oil or butter.
The green turtle is celebrated for the excellency of its fat, from
which turtle soup is made, which is only of recent invention.
There are many other turtles whose flesh is tender, palatable and
wholesome.
SANDERSON'S RECEIPT FOR COOKING TERRAPINS. Put them into
a pot of boiling water, let them remain until dead, take them up, re-
move the outer skin and toe nails, wash the terrapins in warm wa-
ter, boil in water enough to cover them till tender, adding salt
to suit the taste ; while boiling take off the shells, remove the
sand bag and gall without breaking, add any juice that may run
out while cutting up, but no water; salt and pepper to taste, 1-4
Ib. of fresh butter to each terrapin ; rub into the butter a table-
spoonful of flour for the thickening; put these into a stew pan
TURTLES. 8 1
and stir well while the butter is melting ; add 4 tablespoonful s of
rich, sweet cream, stir this in well, add enough good wine (M uleira)
to give a delicious vinous taste to the whole. Stir frequj.uiy and
thoroughly and serve very hot.
TURTLE STEAK KEY WEST WAY TO COOK. (Mrs. S.M. Kellogg.
Fry in plenty of sweet butter a whole or cut up turtle sieak, season-
ing with black and cayenne pepper and salt to taste, when thoroughly
done make a sauce of peeled ripe tomatoes cut up fine, put into a
porcelain stew pan or one of granite and stewed down rich and
thick, seasoning with a little pepper and salt to taste, then pour over
the steak and serve very hot.
NOTE If persons like it, some chopped onion or a little garlic
may be added. When frying the steak and tomatoes are not in season,
a rich cream gravy may be used instead.
TERRAPINS How TO COOK THEM. (Mrs. D. Thornton, Cal.)
Put the terrapins into a pot of boiling water and let them remain 16
or 15 minutes, take them out and rub with a warm cloth all the skin
from the head, neck and claws, also the thin shell as it becomes
loose. Wash them in warm water and put in a pot of clear water.
Add a tablespoonful of salt, boil them again till thoroughly done and
the paws perfectly soft. This will take about 3-4 of an hour, and if
very large i hour. Open them carefully, remove the sand bag, galls
and entrails, but be very careful not to break the gall, as a few drops
of it will spoil the whole, and as it is concealed inside it requires
great care to avoid breaking it. Cut the meat of the terrapins very
fine, put it into a sauce pan with the juice they have yielded in cut-
ting them up, but no water ; season with cayenne or black pepper to
suit the taste. For each terrapin allow a heaping tablespoonful of
butter cut in small pieces and dredged with flour. Put the butter
into a sauce pan with the meat ; add a pint of sherry or Madeira
wine to every 4 terrapins, let it cook 15 minutes; serve it hot ; 3 or
4 eggs boiled hard and chopped fine may be added when there are
no eggs in the terrapins. Four good terrapins of the usual size
ought to make 2 quarts.
NOTE The French use the female terrapins only.
TERRAPINS. Boil them until the bones can be easily removed,
carefully take out the sand bag, chop the meat very fine and add 2
tablespoonfuls of butter, i pint of tomato catsup, i gill of sherry or
Madeira wine, i tablespoonful of mixed mustard, 2 onions boiled
and chopped fine ; salt, black and red pepper to taste ; allspice and
nutmeg may be used if "liked. Stir the mixture well, scrape and
clean 2 of the backs, line them with puff paste, fill with the mix-
ture, cover over with bread crumbs and bake until of a light
brown.
2 PRYING,
To COOK TERRAPINS. (Arganaut.) Take 4 female terrapins,
throw them into boiling water, boil till the" toe nails will remove
easily, take them up, and when cold enough to handle, remove
the shells, sand bag, the portion of the liver that contains the
gall and cut them in quarters, or smaller, if desired. Take 1-2
pint of soup stock, melt it and have ready the hard boiled yolks
of 8 eggs, pound them fine, let them boil a few minutes in the
stock, then strain over the terrapins. Simmer 18 minutes, add
i teaspoonful each of salt, cayenne pepper, powdered mace, cin-
namon, allspice, 1-2 Ib. of sweet butter, 1-2 pint of sherry, 1-2
spoonful of cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. If not thick enough
add more flour ; if too thick, thin with sherry. Cook till suffi-
ciently tender. Add one pint more of sherrv and set away till
next day. When wanted heat in a stew pan
FKYING.
Frying is, sometimes, a very convenient mode of cooking if done
well; very agreeable as a change ; but, if badly-done, is one of the
most offensive ways in which good victuals can be spoiled. It may
be smoked for want of attention to the fire ; it may be .strong from
the use of offensive dripping ; it may be sodden in fat from want of
sufficient briskness of fire to do it properly, or it may be scorched
and dried outside and slack in the middle, if the fire is too fierce.
All these errors are to be avoided.
The fire should be clear and brisk, and rather stronger than for
broiling. The frying-pan should be thick in the bottom, that it may
be less liable to burn. The fat should be sweet and fresh and clear ;
free from salt ; either good lard or dripping, or, for somethings, oil
or butter ; these latter, though very delicious, are very extravagant ;
and there is scarcely any purpose for which good lard or dripping, if
properly managed, will not answer equally well. If butter is used
for frying, when the steaks are finely browned on one side, turn them
and cover the pan, which will render them more juicy; pepper and
salt as for broiling ; when done, place them on a hot dish by the
fire or in a corner of the stove, and add what remains in the pan,
a little catsup and a little good gravy, which boil up for a moment or
two, and pour over the steaks. This is the usual mode for lamb or
mutton chops. Garnish with green pickles or scraped horseradish.
Lamb and mutton chops are sometimes egged and rolled in bread
crumbs and parsley before frying.
Pork chops may be fried in the same manner, dipping them, after
they are egged, in a mixture of chopped sage, onions and crumbs of
bread, with pepper and salt.
BOILING. 83
Veal cutlets may be dipped in egg and seasoned with a mixture of
bread crumbs, parsley, lemon peel chopped or rasped very fine, pep-
per and salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, a sprig of lemon, thyme or sweet
myrtle, chopped very fine.
When bacon is served with liver, let either be served in a separate
pan, or simmered until the liver is nearly done, then put in the fry-
ing pan a minute or two to brown. Each slice of bacon may be
laid on a slice of liver, or around the edge of the dish.
Eggs and bacon are a handy dish when a hasty meal is required.
A little attention will render it a* nice dish.
The details of frying fish, chickens, etc., and other modes of pre-
paring dishes, will be specified in each recipe contained in the sec-
tions into which they are divided.
Cotton seed oil is excellent for frying purposes
BOILING.
REMARKS ON BOILING AND REDUCTION. To cook satisfactorily
by boiling, a slow and steady fire should be kept up. All meats
should be put into a vessel on the fire as soon as the chill is off the
water. Do not hasten the cooking by indiscriminately heaping up
the fuel. Once the boiling point is reached, all excess of heat is
wasted. Meat should not be suffered to boil fast, as that hardens it. Be
careful that it does not stop boiling, otherwise you deceive yourself,
and find the meat at the expiration of the time underdone. The
liquor boils away more rapidly with the lid off than on ; consequently,
for producing quick evaporation, a brisk fire is indispensable. Im-
mediately on boiling up, the pot must be well skimmed, or the scum
breaks and settles at the bottom. A glaze or sauce, reduced too
slowly, will lose at once in appearance and flavor.
Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, except carrots,
parsnips or turnips, with beef, mutton or pork. As to time, every
solid joint will require 1-4 hour to a pound ; a leg of pork or lamb
will require 20 minutes to the pound.
Families in which these savings are not necessary will do well,
nevertheless, to practice saving the bones, coarse pieces of meat,
vegetables, gravies, soups and cold bread for the benefit of the poor
neighbors, and who can tell in these times of fluctuation and uncer-
tainty how valuable habits of economy may prove to themselves ?
To preserve the color of meat, blanch or scald it in warm water a
few minutes before putting it on the fire ; or, 2d, shaking on a small
dust of flour; 3d, very carefully skimming the pot. None of these
methods should be avoided, even at a sacrifice of the juice of the
meat, which is of far less importance than its color.
84 BROILING.
A-leg of mutton boils whitest when quite fresh. Allow time enough
for the water to come slowly to a boil; if it is made hastily the meat
is thereby hardened. Be careful never to run a fork or anything
sharp into the meat, which drains its juice. When it is to be taken
up have a very large, strong fork, of which set one prong into the
shank bone, and slipping another urfder the end of the joint, take
it up, pour a teacupful of the liquor over the meat, garnish with
slices of carrot and serve with caper sauce.
Sheep's head may be either plainly boiled and served with parsley
and butter or caper sauce, or a little finely minced sage beaten up
with brains.
Bacon boiled requires 20 minutes to the pound, but the time va-
ries according to the age of the animal and the manner of salting.
Some people like greens, cabbages, etc., boiled with bacon. In that
case the pot should be carefully skimmed before they are put in.
Ham is best boiled in copper; it requires plenty of room and
slow and regular boiling. If it has been long dried it should be
soaked a night in soft water. When done, remove the skin neatly.
But experience has taught me that to keep a boiled ham several
days for luncheon or other purposes, it is best not to remove the skin,
as that serves to prevent it drying and keeps it fresher. Garnish
with nasturtium leaves, flowers or pods. No salt is added. If kept,
put in a bag of thin muslin in a cool, dry place. Black or white
pepper beaten fine should be boiled with it.
BROILING.
BROILING is the most important part of the cook's office. Meat
thus prepared, if well done, is the most wholesome and generally
the most acceptable to delicate or sickly stomachs. It is also in
frequent request in preparing a hasty meal, or for a single indi-
vidual, and yet it is an art in which few cooks excell. The first
thing required is attention to the state of the fire, which should be
clear, bright and perfectly free from smoke. The bars of the grid-
iron or broiler should be perfectly clean and hot before the meat
is put on ; let the bars be wiped with a piece of clean paper and
rubbed with a piece of fresh suet to prevent the meat from stick-
ing or being marked by the bars ; then sprinkle a little salt over the
fire and lay the meat on.
A broiling fire should be very equal, with the fuel equally lighted
in all parts.
All kinds of kidneys are good broiled; they must be skinned,
split and all pipe removed. When done, pepper and salt each side.
Save the gravy when it rises, put catsup in the dish, and when taken
BROILING. 85
up rub in a piece of fresh butter. Mustard is required with all kinds
of steaks. The rule given by an epicure to his cook in general ap-
plies particularly to steaks : "No matter how much or how little they
are done, provided that all the blood is out and all the gravy
on."
BROILED Ox TAIL. Two tails, 11-2 pint of stock; salt and cay-
enne to taste ; bread crumbs, i egg. Joint and cut up the tails into
convenient sized pieces and put them into a stew pan with the s-tock,
' cayenne and salt, and if liked, very little savory, and bunch of sweet
herbs. Let them stew gently for 2 1-2 hours, then take them out,
drain them and let them cool. Beat an egg upon a plate, dip in
each piece of tail and afterwards throw them into a dish of bread
crumbs ; broil them over a clear fire until of a brownish color on both
sides and serve with a good gravy or any other sauce that may be
preferred ; about 2 1-2 hours to cook ; seasonable at any time.
N. B. These may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in
a brisk oven after they have been dipped in egg and bread crumbs,
and when brown they are done. They must be boiled the same time
as for broiling.
BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER SAUCE. Three dozen oysters, 2 pounds
of rump steak; season, to taste with pepper and salt. Make the oys-
ter sauce by given receipt, and when hot it is ready ; put it by the side
of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling. Have the steak cut of
equal thickness, broil them in the steak broiler over a very clear fire,
turning them often that the gravy may not escape ; in about eight
minutes they will be done ; put them on a very hot dish, smother
with the oyster sauce and send them to the table in a tureen.
Serve quickly ; cook 8 or 10 minutes, according to the thickness of
the steak.
To BROIL STEAK (Mrs. H.'s receipt. The meat should be hung
several days before using it, if the weather is cool. Having hung
long enough, cut the steaks 1-2 inch thick, 3 inches wide and 5
inches long. Thus divided, it is a good size for managing on the
gridiron, and as much as a person would care to have on their plate
at once. Should any part be thicker than the rest, roll it with a roll-
ing pin or very gently beat it out to the same thickness. The prac-
tice of beating steak is very injudicious ; "it breaks the cells which
contain the juices." Thus escaping, the meat becomes dry and
tasteless better always to give the meat time to become tender and
ripe for the gridiron. Sweep the hearth clean, give the dust a few
minutes to settle, prepare a bed of brisk, solid coals, having the grid-
iron looking as bright as a mirror, rub the bars well with brown pa-
per or grease them slightly with suet or lard, not enough to drip, for
this falling on the coals would produce smoke. Place the gridiron
86 ROASTING.
on the coals, and as soon as hot (not enough to scorch), lay on the
steak and turn frequently with meat tongs or a knife. A fork, if in-
serted in the steak, will injure its condition by -making "taps to let
out the juice." I am conscious of repeating this caution often; I
have done so because of the carelessness of the cooks in this mat-
ter. To have the most simple duties performed satisfactorily re-
quires line upon line and precept upon precept. The dish upon
which the steak is to be placed must be hot; put in the dish a large
slice of good sweet butter and add 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato or
mushroom catsup, stir together ; as the butter warms, lay in the
slices and turn over each slice, so that all may be covered alike with
the gravy. This should be done very hastily and the steak sent im-
mediately to the table. A small space of time should be allowed
between the broil and the eating, to have it in perfection. With a
well prepared sauce and proper accompaniments there is not a more
elegant breakfast dish, and when the meat is juicy and tender, and
the broiling performed with skill and dispatch, there is not a more
delicate way of preparing this popular dish. The steak is underdone
if, upon cutting, the red gravy flows; a few more moments should
be allowed for dressing, as the rare appearance of the meat of any
kind is disgusting to persons of good taste".
ROASTING.
ROASTING FIRE. A light, steady fire, and should never be allowed
to get low.
ROASTING. The usual rule for time allowed is a quarter of an
hour to a pound and a few minutes over the joint, but this is not
a positive rule, as much depends on the shape of the joint as
well as the size, and in the strength of the fire and the nearness
of the meat to it.
Meat should be carefully wiped before washing. It is best not
to salt meat before roasting, as it draws out the juices; it should
therefore, if possible, be avoided. Pork is less injured than any other
meat by it. The vegetables usually eaten with mutton roast are
potatoes stewed or boiled, mashed, or browned under the meat;
mashed turnips, French beans, cabbages, sea kale, turnip greens,
cauliflower, spinach and onion sauce.
BEEF. The roasting parts are the ribs, sirloin and rump. The
rump must be slowly done at first ; that is, great thickness of solid
meat may not be heated through before it begins to brown.
BEEF HEART. Must be soaked in cold water till perfectly clear
of the coagulated blood, then wiped thoroughly dry, stuffed as a hare
and roasted or baked. Of the two, baking, if properly done, is
ROASTING. 87
preferable. It will require a great deal of basting, and will take 2
hours or more, if large, for cooking. Eaten very hot.
VEAL. Requires a quick fire and should be more thoroughly
done than other mutton or beef; indeed all young meats require this,
as they are both unpleasant and unwholesome if at all rare. Veal
requires frequent basting ; also rather more flour to brown it than
mutton or beef. When first put down a greased paper should be
fixed on the rind of the neck or loin. The kidney, which is much
esteemed, should be roasted in the loin ; or if it be desired, to
have it browned, let it lie in the dripping pan. All roast veal
should be served with a little good gravy and plenty of melted
butter and garnished with slices of lemon. The vegetables that
should accompany veal are potatoes either plain boiled, mashed or
browned, and greens of every kind, but cauliflower, asparagus, sea
kale and green peas are especially esteemed with roast veal.
Lamb requires a brisk fire ; it should be quickly and thoroughly
done.
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF STUFFED, Make a stuffing as for fillet
of veal, bone the beef, put the stuffing into the middle of it, roll it
up and bind it very tight ; let it roast gently for about 2 hours and a
half, 'or if very thick, 3 hours will do it sufficiently. Serve it up with
a brown sauce of either celery, onions or oysters.
To ROAST A ROUND OF BEEF (fresh.) Salt it, and then paste the
outside (often rubbing it in) with hog's lard. This will cause it to
brown nicely as well as to keep the juice in. Steak may be larded
in the same way.
A SUBSTITUTE for meat (Hebrew.) Stir thoroughly i spoonful of
flour into 2 eggs. Fry with beef drippings (suet) or butter.
ROAST FILLET OF BEEF. Turn and lard a fillet of beef with small
shreds of fat bacon and soak it in 2 gills of cider vinegar, some oil,
salt, pepper, sliced onions and some sprigs of parsley. The meat is
generally allowed to soak for 24 hours. Clear the fillet of onions
and parsley, put it on the spit, wrap it in buttered paper and put
it to roast before an even fire or in a stove ; 5 minutes before
serving take off the paper and glaze the fillet with meat glaze ;
take it off the spit and put it on a dish; pour some meat gravy
under it and serve with piquant sauce in a bowl. Fillet^of beef
is sometimes roasted without being soaked in spiced liquors ; in that
case serve it with the gravy only, without the sauce.
88 STEWING.
STEWING.
A GOOD AND CHEAP DINNER. Get what butchers call a soup-
bone from a nice, tender b,eef and salt it over night. Put it on in
time, so that it will be cooked tender about 1-2 an hour before din-
ner. Put in potatoes enough for your family, and make it boil brisk-
ly for 15 minutes. If the potatoes are large, put it on sooner. About
fifteen or twenty minutes before dinner, lift meat and potatoes into a
pan with a little of the top of the broth, and if you have sweet po-
tatoes, have them boiled sufficiently, so that a fork will enter, and
put them, too, in the pan. Now, after the pan of meat has been
placed in the oven, have a batter made ready, as stiff as it can
be stirred. This batter should be made with an egir, a cup of sour
milk, a small teaspoonful of soda, a pinch of salt and flour to thicken
it. Into the soup (there should be plenty of it), seasoned to the
taste and boiling, drop the batter, a small teaspoonful at a time,
dipping the spoon into the soup between spoonfuls. Keep the pot
boiling briskly, and stir gently, so that the separate spoonfuls of bat-
ter will not run together. As soon as done they should be lifted at
once, or they will get heavy. Such dumplings and soup, with good
bread and butter, and a cup of nice coffee, or anything else that can
be afforded for dessert, makes a good and cheap dinner at any time.
STEWED Ox HEART. Cut it up lengthwise into long, thin pieces,
put them into a stew-pot of cold water or pot-liquor, with salt ; let
it simmer, and carefully skim away the blood, which may be thrown
up in large quantities ; when nearly tender, take out the pieces of
meat and carve them neatly into mouthfuls, dredge a little flour over
them, season with a little pepper and allspice, and return to the
strained liquor with six or eight small onions chopped fine, a stick
or two of celery cut up, a dozen parboiled potatoes and a little cat-
sup or walnut pickle, and let all simmer together until the meat and
vegetables are perfectly tender and the gravy rich and well mingled.
STEWED Ox TAIL AND POTATOES. The tails should be divided
at the joints. Put the tails and potatoes in as much water or broth
as will cover them ; simmer the tails one hour and the potatoes until
the skin will easily peel off; let the liquor cool to remove the fat.
The tails may be either whole or cut in slices, and the gravy, which
thicken and season with butter rolled in brown flour (which is done
by spreading a thin surface of it on a plate or tin and drying it
in the oven), cayenne pepper, shallot or onions, catsup or walnut
pickle and a little mustard, and stew very slowly until perfectly
tender. Serve with toasted slices of bread and pickled onions,
cucumbers or walnuts.
STEWING. 89
Ox CHEEK STEW. Stew it down in a large quantity of water 4
gallons will not be too much. Having done this, remove the
cheek and leave liquor to cool, when a large quantity of excel-
lent fat will be found to have risen on the top ; remove this, and do
cheek and liquor again with any herbs desired, or thickening.
Let it boil until the meat is perfectly tender and the liquor has
boiled away about one-half. This is one of the cheapest and
most nourishing dishes that can be prepared for a poor family.
STEWED Ox CHEEK. One cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions,
butter and flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, i bay leaf, i head
of celery, i bunch of savory herbs, cayenne, black pepper and
salt to taste, i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 tablespoon-
fuls mushroom catsup, 2 tablespoonfuls port wine, 2 tablespoon-
fuls tomato sauce. Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the
day before it is to be eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak
all night in salt and water. The next day wipe it dry and clean
and put it into a stew-pan. Just cover it with water, skim well
when it boils and let it gently simmer until the meat is quite
tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butter and flour, and
put them into the gravy ; add 2 whole onions, each stuck with
3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots stuck, a bay leaf, i head of
celery, a bunch of herbs and seasoning to taste, of cayenne, black
pepper and salt. Let these stew until perfectly tender ; then take
out the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, thin and strain
the gravy, and thicken i 1-2 pint of it with butter and flour in the
above proportions ; add the vinegar, catsup and port wine ; put in the
pieces of cheek ; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot ; send it
to table in a ragout dish. If the color of the gravy should not be
very good, add a tablespoonful of the browning. Cook 4. hours.
Seasonable at any time
STEWED TRIPE. Select 2 Ibs. of double tripe, cut it in strips
of 1-4 Ib each, put in a clean stew pan, add a pint each of wa-
ter and milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, i spoonful of pepper, eight
middling sized onions carefully peeled, which put in, set to boil
rather fast, then simmer till done, which will be 1-4 hour or more.
Turn out into a deep dish or tureen and serve.
STEWED BEEF'S TONGUE. Salt a tongue with saltpetre and com-
mon salt for a week, turning it every day. Boil it till tender enough
to peel; when done stew it in a moderately strong gravy ; season
with sage, mushroom catsup, cayenne, pounded cloves, and salt if
necessary. Serve with mushrooms. The roots must be taken off
the tongue before salting, but some fat left.
CALF'S HEAD STEW. Take the pieces of meat from the soup pot,
chip them fine, put them into a sauce pan with some of the gravy,
9O DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
and stew. Pick the brains and mix them with grated bread, pepper
and salt, and work them into small cakes with the yolk of an egg, fry
them and put them in the soup after it is placed in the tureen ; put
paste that is^baked separately, around the stew, then put them in a
dish and add catsup and a few hard boiled eggs.
STEWED SHIN OF BEEF. A shin of beef, i head of celery, i onion,
a faggot of savory herbs, 1-2 teaspoonful allspice, 1-2 teaspooful of
whole black pepper", 4 carrots, 1 2 button onions, 2 turnips, thicken-
ing of butter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroon catsup, 2 of
port wine, and pepper and salt to taste. Have the bone sawed into
4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water, bring it to a boil, and remove any
scum that may rise to the surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs,
spice, seasoning, and simmer very gently until the meat is tender.
Put in the vegetables, cut them into any shape fancy may dictate
and boil them with the onions till tender ; lift out the beef, put it on
a dish, which keep hot, and thicken with butter and flour in as much
of the liquor as will be wanted for the gravy. Keep stirring until it
boils, then strain and thin it. Put the gravy back in the stewpan,
add the seasoning, put in the wine and catsup, give it one boil, and
pour over the beef. Garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips and
onions. The meat may be stewed 4 hours. Seasonable at any
time.
To STEW A BRISKET OF BEEF. Put the part which has the hard
fat into a stew-pot with a small quantity of water ; let it boil up and
skim it thoroughly ; then add carrots, turnips, onions, celery and a
few pepper corns. Stew until extremely tender ; then take out the
flat bones and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve that
and the meat in a tureen, or the soup alone and the meat on a dish
garnished with some vegetables. The following sauce is much ad-
mired served with beef: Take 1-2 pint of soup and mix it with a
teaspoonful of made mustard, a little flour, a bit of butter and salt ;
boil all together a few minutes and then pour it around the meat.
Chop capers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, cloves or
parsley small, and put in separate heaps over it.
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
STEAK A LA MODE (Mrs. H.'s receipt.) After cutting the steak
in thin slices, pound it lightly. The beef should hang till tender.
Lay the slices in an earthen baking dish and between each layer put
a seasoning of a mixture of bread crumbs, 1-2 teaspoonful each of
mace, cloves, allspice, ginger, red pepper ; salt to taste, a cupful of
tomato catsup, i tablespoonful of butter. Bake 1-2 hour in a mod-
erate oven. Veal, pork, mutton and venison are good prepared in.
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. 9!
this way. When spices are not relished with meat, always omit them
and use any seasoning preferred.
VEAL A LA MODE (baked.) This should be prepared 2 days be-
fore cooking. Remove the skin and rancid parts of 1-2 Ib. of bacon,
cut it in thin strips 2 inches long and 1-4 thick, make incisions all
over the meat near each other with a sharp knife, then take 1-4 Ib.
of kidney suet and i tablespoonful each of thyme, parsley chopped
fine, 4 tablespoonfuls of onion shreded fine, a teaspoonful of mace,
cloves, allspice, i nutmeg pounded and sifted ; put in the parsley
and onions and mix the whole. Mix an even tablespoonful of salt
and season high with black and red pepper mixed. Into each incis-
ion put a little seasoning, then roll each slice of bacon into it and
press them down into the slits and cover the top of the meat with
the seasoning. Lay it in a deep earthen pan large enough to hold
it without cramping ; cover it close and keep it 2 days after it is pre-
pared in this way. When ready for the oven pour a cupful of water
in the dish and bake 4 hours if the piece weighs 10 Ibs. Baste it
well with sweet lard. This is good when cold, and is best in cold
weather.
A LA MODE BEKF (Miss Page.) Take a piece of beef 4 or 5
inches thick, and with a small knife make small incisions entirely
through it at small distances apart, then take strips of fat salt pork,
roll them in pepper and cloves, lay on a pan, cover closely and put
over a steamer and steam for 3 hours. When done thicken the gravy
in -the pan with a little flour. This is excellent when eaten with cold
meat.
MARINADE. Take i Ib. of raw ham, 1-2 lean, 1-2 fat, cut it in
pieces, put these in a stew pan with 4 bay leaves, i sprig of thyme,
6 ounces of onion, 6 ounces of carrots, 2 ounces of parsley, two un-
picked cloves of garlic, 6 shallots, 6 ounces butter. Fry the whole
together, then moisten with 2 quarts of water and 2 quarts of pure
vinegar ; boil for 2 minutes, add 3 ounces of salt and one ounce of
pepper.
MARINADED LAMB'S FEET WITH TOMATO SAUCE. Cook the feet
with some fat bacon fried from the rind and gristle of some veal,
chop and pound the veal and bacon together ; while pounding add i
gill of tomato sauce for each Ib. of forcemeat of bacon and veal ;
drain the feet and bones and cut them in two lengthwise ; spread out
some pig's caul on a cloth, place on it a layer of the forcemeat the
same length as that of the lamb's foot, put 2 slices of trouffle on the
force meat and 1-2 a lamb's foot on these; then 2 more slices of
truffle and cover the whole with a layer of forcemeat ; roll it in the
caul to an oval shape ; and when all the feet are stuffed in this way
dip them in butter, bread crumbs and broil them over a slow fire for
15 minutes with some nice sauce in a boat.
92 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
HOT BEEF A LA MODE. Take 41-2 Ibs. of flank steak and 10
ounces of fat bacon, (cut off the rind and put it aside to blanch,)
cut the bacon into strips 1-2 inch thick and sprinkle them with
pepper. Lard the beef in the grain of the meat and tie it up
with strings ; put into a stew pan with i pint of French white wine
or good vinegar, i gill of brandy, i 1-2 pint of broth, 2 calves'
feet which have been blanched and boned ; also the blanched rind
of bacon ; put on the fire and add i ounce of salt ; boil and skim,
then add 3 carrots, i onion, 2 small pinches of pepper, 3 cloves
and parsley, thyme and a little sage. Put to simmer in a closed
stew pan for 4 hours and a half on the stove corner ; try the beef,
and when done take it out together with the calf's feet and carrots ;
keep hot till serving ; strain the gravy through a pointed gravy
strainer, take off all the fat and reduce it 1-4; untie the beef, put it
on a dish and garnish it around with calf's feet, each cut into eight
pieces, with the carrots cut to the shape of corks and 10 glazed on-
ions. Pour the gravy over all, and should there be too much reserve
it for the next day. Taste for seasoning a la mode beef should be
full flavored ; a clove of garlic is sometimes added. This is not es-
sential, for the taste of the mistress must be consulted.
COLD BEKF A LA MODE. Cold beef a la mode should be prepared
as directed for hot beef a la mode. Put in a basin together with the
calf's feet vegetables and the gravy, which will be set to a jelly ;
when ready to serve turn out of the basin on to a dish ; the beef a la
mode will then present its proper appearance.
N. B. The main points in the preparation of so popular a dish as
beef a la mode are as follows : After the selection of the meat, the
great secret of success is to cook it very slowly. When cooked hurriedly
it invariably produces white, watery and insipid gravy. Slow cook-
ing produces red, rather thick gravy of a gelatinous consistency, full
of nourishing flavor of the vegetables stewed in the gravy, which
is one of the characteristics of a la mode beef. The carrots and
spices should be cooked with the meat, by which they add a savory
flavor which is so much prized by connoiseusrs. I would recommend
that the pieces of meat should be chosen rather too large than
small.
RIB OF BEEF BONES (A Pretty dish). Rib of beef bones, one
onion chopped fine, a few slices of carrot and turnips, and 1-2 pint
of gravy. The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight
covering of meat. Saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season
them with pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the re-
maining ingredients. Stew gently until the vegetables are tender,
and serve on a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes. Cook 3-4
of an hour. Seasonable at any time.
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. 93
BOILLI BEEF. Take 5 or 6 Ibs. of good, tender beef from the
rump, brisket or long ribs ; the rump or round is the best. Put it in
a pot of cold water, enough to cover the beef well ; let it boil until
the scum rises, and skim it nicely ; add 2 carrots, 2 turnips cut in
shape, and stick one onion full of cloves. Let this simmer 3 hours,
and then add i tablespoonful of red wine, a teaspoonful each of
parsley and thyme chopped fine, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard and
1 tablespoonful of catsup. Simmer i hour and take the beef out
and stir.
SMOTHERED BEEFSTEAK. After pounding your steak well on both
sides, broil it on a clean and well-greased griddle over a clear fire.
Turn it frequently.
To ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL. Before roasted, if large, the
two ends may be taken off and fried to a stew, or the whole may be
roasted. Butter should be poured over it. If any be left, cut the
pieces into handsome sizes, put them into a stew-pan and pour some
broth over them, or, if you have no broth, a little water will do ; add
some parsley, thyme, a blade of mace and some pepper. Stew until
tender. Thicken with butter and flour and add a little tomato, wal-
nut or cucumber catsup ; or the whole breast may be stewed. After
cutting off the two ends, serve the sweetbread whole upon it, which
may be either stewed or parboiled, and then cover with crumbs,
herbs, pepper and salt and browned in a Dutch oven. If you have
mushrooms, truffles and muscles, stew them with it, and serve. A
roasted breast of veal smothered with onion sauce is an excellent
dish if not old or too fat.
VEAL STUFFING. Take 1-2 Ib. finely chopped suet with 1-2 Ib.
of bread crumbs, 4 oz. chopped parsley, a bay leaf, a tablespoonful
of equal quantities of powdered thyme and marjoram and 2 bay
leaves, the rind of a lemon^. grated and the juice of 1-2 a one.
Season with pepper, salt and 1-4 of a nutmeg. Mix the whole with
3 eggs. By adding some more chopped parsley this will do to stuff
a turkey or bake a fish with.
Note. A nice garnish may be made of beet root, cut gherkins,
cucumbers and olives.
To FRY VEAL (Mrs. Baringer). Cut the meat in 'thin slices,
rub with pepper and salt, dip in flour and drop it into a pan of hot
lard. When of a fine brown, take it up and make a gravy with
cream or milk poured into the skillet and pour over the veal. Gar-
nish with parsley.
BAKED VEAL. One-half Ib. cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon,
2 cups of bread crumbs, i cup of good veal gravy, 1-2 teaspoonful
minced lemon peel, i blade of pounded mace, cayenne pepper and
salt to taste, and 4 eggs. Mince finely the veal and bacon ; add
94 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
the bread crumbs, gravy and seasoning, stir these ingredients well
together. Beat up the eggs thoroughly ; add these, mix the whole
well together, put into a dish and bake from 3-4 to i hour. Ifliked,
a little good gravy may be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.
For 3 or 4 persons.
To BAKE A FILLET OF VEAL. Let it hang until tender, wiping it
every day with a dry cloth. Should not lay it upon wood, as that
keeps the meat damp. When prepared, for baking, with a sharp
knife separate the fillet or thigh from the loin and shank and remove
the bone, fill the space with a rich stuffing of bread crumbs, chopped
onion, parsley and a tablespoonful of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Beat in 2 eggs and fry the mixture, stirring constantly 10 minutes ;
wrap the flap around. It should be as before the bone was removed,
after being stuffed and wrapped, tie a tape or cord around it and
insert a skewer; put it in the oven with something under to elevate
it an inch at least, and pour in 2 cupfuls of warm water. Bake
slowly and baste often. If the gravy is not rich enough rub an even
teaspoonful of flour into a tablespoonful of butter and add to the
gravy. Tomato catsup, with the gravy, is an improvement. To 2
cupfuls of gravy add 1-2 cupful of catsup, or stew a few tomatoes
and a little spice with the gravy. A fillet of beef resembles the
round of a beef that is covered in the same way. Cut off the top
outside piece, then cut round, thin slices and send some of the stuff-
ing upon each plate. Serve with pickles, catsup or French mus-
tard.
BEEF'S LIVER (LIVERS TO COOK) Cut the liver in scores
and salt it with 2 Ibs. of salt for a fortnight, then let it drain for 3
days, then rub in 2 ounces of several kinds of spice, according to
your judgment, and all sorts of sweet herbs chopped very fine ; also
a good seasoning of onions and shallots ; then hang in a dry, cool
place for a- time, then put in a bag for use. A small piece is suffi-
cient to make gravy for ducks, hares, &c. It will keep many months
and be useful in this manner.
To FRY LIVER, SMELTS, SWEET BREADS, &c. Parboil them till
2-3 done, take the liver out and cut it in thin slices. It should not
be boiled in much water ; then put it back into the frying pan with
the sweet breads, &c., chopped onions, pepper, cayenne and salt, and
fry slowly till done, then take it up and make a nice gravy of milk
thickened with a small portion of flour, then serve ; or fry the liver as
beefsteak and eat it rather rare after salting and peppering it.
PIG'S HEARTLET (Mrs. H.'s receipt.) Clean the liver and sweet
breads and put to them the fat and lean bits of pork, with which
mix pepper, salt, sage and onion shred fine; put all into a caul, tie
up and roast on a hanging Jack, or put into a dish and bake ; or
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. 95
slice the liver and sweet breads and fry them with pieces of bacon ;
garnish with fried parsley.
CALF'S OR LAMB'S LIVER. Should be cut in long, thin slices
soaked in water, wiped thoroughly dry and floured on each side ; fry
of a fine nut brown ; when nearly done sprinkle a little pepper and
salt, some shallots or young onion finely sliced, a little gravy thick-
ened with flour and butter, to which may be added a squeeze of
lemon. Serve with stewed or pickled cucumbers and fried parsley.
To FRY LIVER. Cut your liver in nice pieces, put in cold water,
and let it boil until it looks nearly done, take it out and drip into hot
lard. Season it with pepper and salt as you take it up.
To BAKE A FRESH BEEF TONGUE. Take just enough water to
cover it and parboil for 2 hours ; take it up and dip it in the yolk of
an egg, then sift over it dusted breadcrumbs, lay it in a baking pan
and pour over it a cupful of the broth in which it was boiled ; bake,
basting well with butter.
. To BOIL A SALT TONGUE. Soak it over night in plenty of water,
put it to boil in more water than to cover it ; while boiling, if it
is too salt change the water ; it requires long boiling. Ascertain
when it is done by running a small skewer in the skin, carefully
remove the rough part of the root and garnish the dish with pars-
ley. Slice round. This may be eaten hot at dinner or cold for supper.
Smoked tongue is prepared in the same way. Be sure to boil
till tender. Fresh tongue must be first boiled, then dipped in
beaten egg, rolled in bread crumbs and baked in a pan. Pour
in a cupful of the broth it was boiled in, baste it well with butter;
1-2 hour will be sufficient time for baking. Season the gravy with
any good catsup.
To BOIL A CALF'S HEAD. After being well cleaned it is best to
keep the skin on ; it will require an hour longer in cooking when the
skin is retained. The head should be fat. Cut apart the upper
and lower jaws, remove the eyes ; they are never used. Take out
the bone containing the teeth ; also the nose. and ears; cut out the
tongue, remove the brains, put the head and tongue to boil in enough
warm water to cover them, tie the brains in a cloth, boil all until ten-
der ; vegetables may be boiled with the head ; if liked, onions, car-
rots, parsley and thyme. Serve the head upon i dish ; upon an-
other place the tongue and brains, or make sauce of the brains ;
take a pint of the broth, put it in a stew pan, add a tablespoonful of
parsley chopped fine ; salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Let these
stew 1-4 hour; add a large tablespoonful of butter into which has
been rubbed a dessert spoonful of flour ; stew this 5 minutes and
serve with the head ; use the remainder of the broth for soup. It is
96 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
the basis or stock of mock turtle soup. Season the brains with sage
if the flavor is liked. Garnish with lemon.
COLLARED CALF'S HEAD. A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls minced
parsley, 4 blades of pounded mace, 1-2 teaspoonful of grated nut-
meg ; white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham ; the yolks of 6
eggs boiled hard. Scald the head for a few minutes, take it out of
the water, and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair, clean it nicely,
divide the head and remove the brains ; boil till tender e.nough to
take out the bones, which will be about 2 hours. When the head is
boned flatten it on the table, sprinkle over it a layer of parsley, then
a layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and
put a seasoning of mace, nutmeg and white pepper between each
layer ; roll the head in a cloth and tie it up as tightly as possible.
Boil it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot place a heavy,
weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till
cold, then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.
Altogether 6 hours.
SALT BEEF. If it be required to get a piece of salt beef for im-
mediate use, the moment it comes into the house rub in 1-2 the usual
quantity of salt and let it lie for awhile till time to put it into the
pot when boiling. When it has boiled an hour take it out, rub in
some salt, flour the cloth again and return it in the same manner.
Allow it the usual time for boiling. By this method it will be found
salt enough. Mustard is always eaten with boiled beef. Those who
do not choose anything so plain for their own eating may do a good
action by boiling a little for some poor family in the neighborhood.
Meat that has necessarily lain in salt may be freshened up by soaking
it in one or more waters. In boiling be very careful to remove the
scum till no more rises, and even then it may be necessary to throw
in a little cold water to refine the liquor. The pot shoufd be kept
covered and the meat turned once or twice while boiling.
TRIPE LYONNAISE FASHION. When any cold tripe remains, cut
in thin slices about the thickness of an inch square, mince 2 onions,
put some butter in a frying pan, add in the onions, fry till they are
partly done, add the tripe, let them fry 10 minutes, tossing them,
season with salt and pepper, 3 spoonfuls of vinegar to each i Ib.
and serve. Well dry the tripe on a dish before frying. It will take
3 ounces of butter to the Ib.
BOILED TRIPE. After the animal is killed, as soon as possible
have the stomach emptied, and well washed in cold water; sprinkle
lime or ashes over the inside, fold it carefully and lay it in a vessel ;
cover it with warm water for 6 hours and then scrape off the
dark, part. When this is removed wash it in several waters and place
it in another vessel filled with salt and water. The first jar should
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. 97
be scalded and cleaned well. Boil the tripe, putting it in cold
water until a straw will easily pierce it and the edges look trans-
parent ; skim closely, and when the tripe is tender take it up and
cut it in uniform sizes convenient for serving ; pour over milk or
milk and water and keep it closely covered. Should the milk
turn sour a little it will not injure the tripe, as it is usual to add vine-
gar in cooking it. It should not be kept long ; either fry, stew or
hash it ; when made into a hash use onions freely and cover with
pickle.
FRICASSEE ROUND OF BEEF. From 5 to 10 Ibs. of rib of beef,
sufficient brine to cover the meat. Choose a fine rib, have the bones
removed, rub some salt over the inside and skewer the meat up into
a nice round form and bind it with tape. Put it in sufficient brine
to cover it, and then let it remain for six days, turning the meat
every day. When required to be dressed drain from the pickle
and put the meat into very hot water ; let it boil rapidly for a
few minutes, then draw the pot to the side of the fire and let it
simmer very gently till done. Remove the skewer and replace
by a plated or silver one. Carrots and turnips should be serv-
ed with this dish. There may be boiled with the meat a small
round of 8 Ibs. about 2 hours after the water boils; i of 12 Ibs.
3 hours. Seasonable at any time. Should the joints be small, 4
or 5 days will be sufficient time to salt it. -
To BOIL CORN BEEF. Let the beef soak in a full supply of
water to cover it. In the morning after breakfast hour wash the
meat well, put it in a cooking vessel and cover it over with cold
water ; boil slowly and skim frequently. If it is to be sewed cold
let it remain in the pot till it becomes so. To prepare it for a
Supper dish or luncheon take out all the bones ; when thoroughly
done prick the meat and put it into a deep dish, putting alter-
nately fat and lean ; remove all the fat by skimming. Reduce
this to 1-2 by boiling, then pour over the meat enough to fill up the
cracks left in filling up the meat, then lay over this a flat cover that
will just fit it, and upon this place a heavy weight. This dish is best
prepared in cold weather and put ice on the dish in which it is.
Serve it upon a round dish and garnished with sprigs of parsley or
tops of celery, or any good pickle. French mustard is good eaten
with it.
BAKED BEEF. Two Ibs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, i large
carrot or 2 small ones, i turnip, parsley, sage, thyme, pepper and
salt to taste; 12 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3'spoonfuls of vinegar or
ale, and mashed potatoes. Cut the beef in slices, allowing a
small amount of fat to each slice; place a layer of this in the battom
of the pie dish with a portion of the onions, carrots and turnips,
98 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
which must be sliced ; mince the herbs, strew them over the meat
and season with pepper and salt. Then put in another layer of meat,
vegetables and seasoning ; proceed in this manner until all the in-
gredients are used. Pour in the gravy, vinegar or ale (water may be
substituted for the gravy, but it is not so nice.) Cover with a crust
of mashed potatoes and bake for 1-2 hour, or rather longer. It is
sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
N. B. It is better to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding
them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they are
boiled as a substitute for gravy ; that is to say, when there is no gravy
at hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very thin slices.
BAKED SPICED BEEF. (Mrs. B.'s Receipt.) Make a brine of 1-2
Ib. of salt, the same of sugar, 1-2 ounce of saltpetre, a table-
spoonful of allspice, whole grains, measure and bruise them, half
as many cloves, a tablespoonful of black pepper ground coarse,
1-2 teaspoonful of cayenne pepper pulverized. Boil these in three
coffee cups of water. Take a piece of the round weighing 8 Ibs.,
pour this spiced water over it and turn it once or twice a day
for 10 days, then salt it sufficiently and put it to bake in an
earthen dish ; pour the brine over it, cover with a dough made
of coarse flour and water, lay pieces of suet over the meat thick
before putting on the sheet of dough. Bake slowly and let the
meat become cold in the pan. To be eaten cold with French
mustard. This keeps well; fresh beef tongues are good prepared in
this way.
MRS. RANDOLPH'S RECEIPT FOR HUNTER'S BAKED BEEF. Select
a fat round weighing 25 Ibs. take 3 ounces of saltpetre, i ounce
of cloves, 1-2 ounce of allspice, i large nutmeg, i quart of salt, i
cup of syrup ; rub it well on both sides with the mixture ; first take
out the bone.
POTTED COOKED BEEF. The remains of cold roast or boiled beet,
1-4 Ib. of butter, cayenne to taste ; 2 blades of pounded mace; the
outside slices of beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a
very nice addition to the breakfast table. Cut off the meat into small
pieces and pound it well with a little butter in a mortar ; add a seas-
oning of mace and cayenne and be very particular that the mace is
reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thor-
oughly mixed put it into glass or earthen pots and pour on the top a
coating of clarified butter. Seasonable at any time. When an or-
ganic substance like the flesh of animals is heated to the boiling
point it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation
and decay. After being kept for 2 or 3 days, fresh animal milk, as
is well known, coagulates into a gelatinous mass, and if it be heated
up to* the boiling point it may be preserved for an indefinite pe-
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. 99
riod as a perfectly sweet liquid. The knowledge of this effect of an
elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of
industry, namely, the preparation of prepared meats, vegetables,
fruits, soups and milk for the navy, army and merchant service, and
for domestic use, when they are prepared in such a manner that they
retain their freshness for years. These prepared aliments are en-
closed in canisters of tinned plate, the covers are soldered air tight,
and the canisters exposed to the temperature of boiling water for 3
or 4 hours. When a canister is opened after a lapse of years its
contents are found to be unaltered in taste, color and smell. They
then acquire a stability which may almost be deemed eternal. For
this beautiful practical application of the discovery that boiling checks
fermentation, we are indebted to the French philosopher, Gay Sus-
sac.
To POT BEEF OR MUTTON. Take 2 pounds of lean beef, rub it
with saltpetre and let it lie i night, then salt it with common salt
and cover it with water 4 days in a small pan. Dry it with a cloth
and season it with black pepper ; lay it in as small a pan as will hold
it, cover it with coarse paste and bake 5 hours in a cool oven. Put
no liquor in : when cold pick out the strings and fat, beat the meat
very fine, with 1-4 Ib. of fine fresh butter just warm but not oiled, and
as much gravy as will make it into a paste. Put it into very small
pots and cover with melted butter.
MOULDED MINCED VEAL. 3-4 Ib. cold veal, a small slice of ba-
con, 1-3 teaspoonful of minced lemon peel, 1-2 onion chopped fine,
salt, pepper and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in
milk and i egg. Mince the meat very fine after removing from it
all skin and outside pieces and chop the bacon ; mix these well to-
gether, adding the lemon peel, onion, seasoning, mace and toast.
When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, beat up an egg, with
which bind the mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat and bake
for 3-4 of an hour ; turn it out of the mould carefully and pour round
it good bacon gravy. A sheep's head dressed in the same manner
is an economical and savory dish. Cook 3-4 of an hour.
MINCED VEAL (More economical). The remains of cold roast
fillet or loin of veal, rather more than i pint of water, i onion,
1-2 teaspoonful of minced lemon peel, salt and white pepper to
taste, i blade of pounded mace, 2 or 3 young carrots, a faggot
of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and flour, i tablespoonful
lemon juice, and 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or new milk. Take
about i Ib. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge them
with flour and put them into a stew-pan with the brown outside
and a few meat trimmings ; add rather more than i pint of water,
the onions cut in slices, lemon peel, seasoning, mace, carrots
IOO DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
and herbs ; simmer these for i hour, and strain the liquor. Rub
a little flour into some butter, add this to the gravy, set it on
the fire, and, when it boils, skim it well. Mince the meat finely
by cutting and not chopping it ; put it in the gravy and let it
get warmed through gradually; add the lemon juice and cream,
and, when it is on the point of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish
with sippets of toasted bread and slices of bacon rolled and toasted.
Forcemeat balls may also be added. If more lemon juice is
liked than is stated above, put a little very finely minced to the
veal, after it is warmed in the gravy. One hour to make the
gravy.
FRICANDEAU OF BEEF. Three Ibs. of the inside fillet of the
sirloin (a piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper
and salt to taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice
berries, i pint of stock or water, i glass of sherry, i bunch of
savory herbs, 2 shallots and bacon. Cut some bacon into thin
strips and sprinkle over them a seasoning of salt and pepper
mixed with cloves, mace and allspice well pounded. Lard the beef
with these, put it into a stew-pan with the stock or water, sherry,
herbs, shallots, 2 cloves, and some pepper and salt. Stew the meat
gently until tender, then take it out, cover it closely, skim off the fat
from the gravy, and strain it. Set it on the fire and let it boil till it
becomes glaze. Glaze the larded side with this and serve on sorrel
sauce, which is made as follows : Wash and pick some sorrel, put it
into a stewpan with only the water that hangs about it ; keep stirring
to prevent it burning, and when done, lay it on a sieve to dry. Chip
and stew it with a small piece of butter and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of
good gravy for i hour, and rub it through a tammy. ' If too acrid,
add a little sugar, and a little cabbage, lettuce boiled with the sorrel
will be found to be an improvement. Two hours to gently stew the
meat. Seasonable at any time.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. A piece of the fat side of a leg of mut-
on (about 3 Ibs.), lardones, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of
savory herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay
leaves, pepper to taste, a few slices of fat bacon and i pint of stock.
The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it will not
be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not thready.
Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one stroke of
the knife cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau with an un-
even surface never looks well. Trim it, with a sharp knife make 2
or 3 slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning.
Now lard it thickly with the fat bacon, as lean bacon gives a red
color to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables and put these with the
spices and herbs in the middle of a stew-pan, with a few slices of
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. IOI
bacon on the top. These should form a sort of mound in the center
for the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle
over it a little salt and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the ba-
con, 'etc., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil,
then put it over a slow and equal fire and let it simmer very gently
for about 2 1-2 hours, or longer, should it be very large. Baste it
frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving put it into
a brisk oven to make the bacon firm, which, otherwise would break
when it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau and serve with a puree of
whatever vegetable happens to be in season spinach, sorrel, aspar-
agus, cucumbers, peas, etc. Cook 21-2 hours. If very large,
allow more time.
VKAL CUTLETS. Three Ibs. of the prime part of the leg of veal,
egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoon fuls of minced savory herbs,
salt and pepper to taste, and a small piece of butter. Have the
veal cut in slices about 3-4 of an inch in thickness, and, if not cut
perfectly even, level the meat with a cutlet bat or rollingpin. Shape-
and trim the cutlets and brush them over with egg. Sprinkle with
breadcrumbs, with which have been mixed some minced herbs and
a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press down the crumbs. Fry
them a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be careful not to
burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not dry. If
the cutlets are thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a
good distance from the fire after they have acquired a good color.
By this means the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a
dish, keep them hot and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge
in a little flour, add a piece of butter as large as a walnut, and then
pour as much boiling water over it as is required. Season with
pepper and salt, add a little lemon juice, give one boil and pour it
over the cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled
bacon, and a few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent
addition to the dish. For cutlets of a moderate thickness about
12 minutes; if very thick, allow more time. Veal cutlets maybe
nicely flavored and fried a nice brown.
VEAL when eaten should have the juice of an orange squeezed
over it. C. C. B.
VEAL LOAF. Three Ibs. of veal cutlets, 1-2 Ib. of fat pork,
ail chopped fine, i cup of powdered crackers, i cup of cold wa-
ter, salt, pepper, sage, etc., and i egg. Bake 2 1-2 hours.
CALF'S HEAD, ONE-HALF BOILED AND THE OTHER BAKED.
Cleause the head, parboil 1-2 and rub it over with a feather
dipped in the beaten yolk of an egg. Strew over it a seasoning
of pepper, salt, thyme, parsley chopped small, cayenne pepper, a
spoonful of powdered sage, a little nutmeg, stick bits of butter
IO2 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
over it, and then sprinkle over it thickly a teaspoonful of grated
bread crumbs. Put it in the stove, and when it begins to brown
immediately baste it over with melted butter; a very
few minutes will be required to baste it. A portion of the brains
may be mashed and added to the gravy. Celery and vinegar will
season the gravy well. The housekeeper, who directs in such mat-
ters, should give particular instructions as to the sauce to be used in
each dish, adding ingredients to suit the tastes of those who are to
be served. There is but one style of gravy or sauce, or not more
than two, in the majority of families, and these never vary. Nothing
easier than to give a pleasing variety when a good supply of vinegars
and catsups are kept on hand. Then boil the other half of the
head in a white cloth and serve them both in one dish. Boil the
other half of the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with a very little
parsley and a leaf or two of sage. When they are boiled, chop
them small and warm them up in a saucepan with a bit of butter
and a bit of pepper and salt. Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled,
in the middle of a small dish and the brains around it. Have in
another dish bacon and pickled pork, and in a third, greens and
carrots.
LAMB'S HEAD. Wash the head very clean, take the back part
from the eyes and the gail from the liver. Lay the head in warm
water ; boil the lights, heart and part of the liver, chop and flour
them, and toss them up in a saucepan with some gravy, catsup and
a little pepper, salt, lemon juice and a spoonful of cream. Boilthe
head very white, lay it in the middle of the dish and the minced meat
around it ; place the other parts of the fried liver, with some very
small bits of butter, on the minced meat, and the brains fried in little
cakes, laid on the rim of the dish, with some crisped parsley put be-
tween. Pour a little melted butter over the head and garnish with
lemon.
LAMB'S HEAD MINCED. Chop the head in halves and blanch it
with the liver, heart and lights ; clean the brains in warm water, dip
them in the yolk of an egg. grated bread and chopped parsley,
seasoned with white pepper and salt, and while the head is blanching,
fry them in boiling lard, and drain. Chop the heart, etc., and add a
little parsley and lemon peel chopped very fine, seasoned with white
pepper and salt ; stew in some cauls until tender. Wash the bread
over with yolk of egg, strew over grated bread seasoned with white
pepper and salt, and bake until tender. Serve up, having browned
the head with a salamander ; put the mince under it and the brains
around it with slices of broiled bacon.
COUSIN GERMAN (From a Chicago housekeeper). Take 4 calf's
feet thoroughly cleaned and boil in 3 quarts of water until done
DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT. IO3
enough to fall to pieces, then strain off the water ; now put the goose
into a pot, pour over it the broth of the calf's feet and enough water
to cover the goose well ; add some vinegar, spices, salt, onions and
a half peel of a lemon ; cover it and boil slowly until the goose is
soft. Let it cool off in the broth, and take out the goose after it is
cold. Cut all the meat off the bones and lay it in a deep earthern
dish. Take all the fat off the broth, taste it, add more vinegar and
salt if necessary, let it run through a cloth and pour it over the
meat. It will be nice and stiff after 24 hours, and you can eat
it cold with bread or cream. If you can get gellatine it will
be so much simpler to prepare it. Boil the goose in water and
spiced just as before. The toughest meat will get tender if
boiled with vinegar. The American cooks always steam the goose
before roasting. Try it once without steaming. Rub it with salt,
both inside and outside ; put a little water in your frying pan
and roast it in a hot oven two or three hours, according to size,
and if it is a young goose you will find it superb.
PIG'S PETTITOES. A thin slice of bacon, i onion, i blade of mace,
6 peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, i pint of gravy, pepper and
salt to taste thickening of butter and flour. Put the liver, heart and
pettitoes into a stewpan with the bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme,
onion and gravy, and simmer these gently for 1-4 of an hour ; then
take out the heart and liver and mince them very fine. Keep stew-
ing the feet until quite tender, which will be from 20 to 30 minutes,
reckoning from the time that they boil up first ; then put back the
minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, season
with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle fire for five minutes,
occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the-mince, split the feet and
arrange them around alternately with sippets of toasted bread and
pour the gravy in the middle. Altogether 40 minutes.
SHEEP'S FEET OR TROTTERS. 12 feet, 1-4 Ib. of beef or mutton
suet, 2 onions, i carrot, 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, i oz. salt,
1-4 oz. pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 2 1-2 quarts of water, 1-4 Ib.
fresh butter, i teaspoonful each of salt, flour and pepper, a little
grated nutmeg, the juice of i lemon, i gill of milk and the yolks of
2 eggs. Have the feet cleaned and the long bone extracted from
them, put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced,
the bay leaves, thyme, salt and pepper, and let these simmer for five
minutes ; add 2 tablespoonfus of flour and the water, and keep stir-
ring till it boils, then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours,
or until perfectly tender, take them and lay them on a sieve, mix to-
gether on a plate with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (2 tea-
spoonfuls), pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, as above, and put the
feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan ; when very hot, add the
104 DIFFERENT WAYS TO COOK MEAT.
butter, etc., and stir continually until melted. Now mix the yolks of
2 eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk ; stir this into the other ingre-
dients, keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or
two, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a
hot dish and garnish with croutons or sippets of toasted bread. Cook
3 hours. Seasonable at any time.
To FRY KIDNEYS. Chop veal, mutton, beef or hog's kidneys and
some of the fat, likewise a little leek or onion (or not), cayenne
pepper (a little), and salt. Wet it with an egg or two, roll it up into
balls and fry them, or they may be parboiled and simply fried with
sweet breads.
STEWED Ox KIDNEYS. Cut a kidney or two into thin pieces, soak
the slices in water and dry them well ; dust them with flour, pepper
and salt, put them into the stew pan with a little fresh butter and
shake them about over the fire till brown, then pour some hot water,
broth or pot liquor into the pan ; a shallot or two chopped fine, some
young onions, a little parsley and a spoonful of shallot vinegar, on-
ion or walnut pickle or catsup. Cover the stewpan close and simmer
slowly 'till done.
LAMB TO KEEP IN SUMMER. In a few hours after the lamb is
slaughtered take all four quarters and cook them well ; each subse-
quent day afterwards, as you prepare your dinner, place the remain-
ing quarters back in the stove and thoroughly heat them. Pepper
well ; add a little salt. In this way they will keep sweet for a week
in the hottest weather.
A VERY NICE DISH. Take the but end of a neck of lamb, cut it
into steaks and chop each bone so short as to make the steaks al-
most round. Egg and strew over with crumbs, herbs and seasoning; fry
them of the finest brown, mash some potatoes with a little butter and
cream and put them into the middle of the dish raised high. Then
place the edge of one steak on another with the small bone upward
all around the potatoes.
HODGE PODGE. One pound of under-done cold mutton, 2 let-
tuces, i pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 ounces of butter;
pepper and salt to taste ; 1-2 teacupful of water; mince the mutton
and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices. Put these into a stew
pan with all the ingredients except the peas, let these simmer very
gently for 3-4 of an hour, keeping them well stirred. Boil the peas
separately ; mix these with the mutton and serve very hot ; stew 3-4
hour.
A LAMB'S HAGGIS. Slit up all the little fat strips with scissors
and clean them ; clean the kernels also and parboil the whole and
cut them into little bits. Clean and shred the web ^.nd kidney fat
and mix it with the tripe ; season with salt, pepper and grated nut-
PORK AND BACON. IO5
meg. Make a thin batter with 2 eggs, 1-2 pint of milk and the
necessary quantity of flour. Season with chopped cloves or young
onions ; mix the whole together, sew up the bag, which must be clean,
and boil for 1-2 hour.
PORK AND BACON.
OLIVE OIL is superior to butter, lard or dripping for basting a pig
or fowl ; it gives it an evener and a finer color, and more crispness
to the skin.
OLIVE OIL FOR COOKING. Almost every kind of dish is cooked
in olive oil by the inhabitants of Syria, Arabia and a portion of
Africa.
To BOIL A LEG OF PORK (Mrs. H.'s recipe). Pork requires longer
boiling than any other meat. If it has befen salted 6 or 8 days soak
it an hour before cooking. Scrape and wash it carefully, singe off any
hairs with a piece of burning paper or corn husk, and avoid making
incisions about the knuckle, as this lets out the juice. Put it to boil
in lukewarm water, and boil slowly and steadily, skimming carefully ;
keep the cover on ; this will not only keep out the smoke, but will
retain much of the nutritive properties of the meat. Should the
least dross remain upon the meat when done, scrape it off again. It
should go to the table white, clean and thoroughly done, and yet
not boiled until the meat drops from the bone ; it should be rather
underdone. This is good cold or slightly heated and buttered. A
pea pudding, from time immemorial, has been considered the proper
accompaniment for this dish. Boiled turnips, with or without butter,
cream and pepper, are excellent. When cold, nothing can be better
than chow-chow or French mustard as an accompaniment.
To BOIL PICKLED PORK. Should the pork be very salt, let it re-
main in water about 2 hours before it is dressed. Put it into a sauce-
pan with sufficient cold water to cover it, let it gradually come to a
boil and then gently simmer until tender. Allow ample time for it
to cook, as nothing is more disagreeable than underdone pork, and
when boiled fast the meat becomes hard. This is sometimes served
with boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of bacon. When tender,
and not over salt, it will be found equally good, A piece of pickled
pork weighing 2 Ibs., i 1-2 hours to boil. Seasonable at any time.
BAKING PORK. Rub over its surface some melted butter, strew it
with bread crumbs and bake it in a very hot oven until of a brown
golden yellow color. You can season it with salt and pepper. It
is better to roast it rather too much than too little. Roast leg of
pork 3 hours, or. until tender.
To ROAST A LEG OF PORK. Cut the skins in squares, season with
salt and pepper and baste with salt and water while baking.
IO6 PORK AND BACON.
SPRING OR FOREHAND OF PORK. Cut out the bone, sprinkle salt,
pepper and dried sage over the inside ; but first warm a little butter
to baste it with and then flavor it ; roll the pork tight and tie it,
then roast it by hanging before the fire. About 2 hours will do it.
To ROAST A COLLARED NECK OF PORK. Let the meat be boned,
then strew the inside pretty well with bread crumbs, chopped sage, a
very little beaten allspice, some salt and pepper, all mixed together.
Roll it up very close, bind it tightly and roast gently i 1-2 hours or
more, according to the thickness. A loin of pork with the fat and
kidney taken out and boned, and a spring of pork boned are very
nice dressed in the same way.
To FRY PORK CHOPS. Parboil them and then flour them with
pepper and salt and fry them with chopped onions in lard.
PORK CHOPS may be fried in the same manner, dipping them, after
they are egged, in a mixture of chopped sage, onions and crumbs of
bread with pepper and salt.
PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. Loin of pork, pepper and salt to
taste. Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and brown
them nicely and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season
them with pepper and place the gridiron on the fire ; when quite hot
lay on the chops and broil them for 1-4 of an hour, turning them 3
or 4 times, and be particular that they are thoroughly done, but not
dry. Dish them, sprinkle over a little fine salt and serve plain or
with tomato catsup, some piquant sauce, or pickled gherkins, a few
of which should be laid around the dish as a garnish. One-quarter
of an hour.
ROAST P;G. Stuff with a stuffing of bread crumbs, sifted sage, salt,
pepper and nutmeg, and sew it up, lay it on a brisk fire until
done thoroughly, then have ready some butter in a dry cloth and
rub the pig with it in every part. (The legs must be skewered
back or the under part will not crisp.) Dredge as much flour
over it as will probably lie, and do not touch it again till ready to
serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a blunt knife,
rub the pig well with the buttered cloth, and take off the head
while at the fire ; take ouf the brains and mix them with the
gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up, and, without
draining the spit, cut it down the back and belly and lay it into
the dish and chop the sage and bread quickly and as fine as
you can, and mix them with a large quantity of fine, melted but-
ter that has very little flavor. Put the sauce into the dish after
the pig has been split down the back, and garnish with the ears
and the two jaws ; take off the upper part of the head down to
the neck. Some add to the above stuffing a couple of onions,
parboiled, 2 spoonfuls of butter and the yolk of an egg. Apple
PORK AND BACON IO7
sauce, carrot sauce, bread sauce and tomato sauce are occasion-
ally used. A pig will take about 2 hours to roast. When the
eyes start from the head it is done enough. The pig may be
roasted in a paper bag that has been well greased with beef
drippings. Before roasting, meat that has been frozen should be
soaked 2 or 3 hours or longer ia cold water, and will require a
longer time to roast.
N. B. Do not attempt to thaw it before the fire, or you will
never be able to roast it perfectly afterward. Squeeze in it a lit-
tle lemon juice, and put in a sprinkle of salt and a Httle cayenne
pepper, which should be on the table. Roasting was the ancient
manner of dressing meat.
ROAST PIG. Kill your pig the evening previous or very early in
the morning of your wanting it to cook. Scrape, singe and wash it
several times in cold water, changing it as often ; then cut the feet
off at the first joint. The heart, liver and feet should be put in a pot
or a pan to stew. Fill the body with a rich stuffing, as for turkey or
goose, or with Irish potatoes mashed fine while hot, after boiling or
steaming them, which should be highly seasoned with salt, pepper,
lard or butter (i spoonful each). After fastening the legs together,
sew the body up and rub it well with salt and pepper all over. Put
it in a tin roaster before a hot fire, turn it frequently, and now and
then rub it with lard or butter tied up in a piece of muslin, in order
to make the skin crisp all over. If you wish you can suspend it be-
fore the fire with a string tied to a strong nail, and under it place a
stew-pan or skillet to catch the gravy. The feet cut up and the
heart and liver chopped very fine, should be boiled in clear water
with a few sage leaves. Take them up and lay them on a sieve and
season highly ; form a paste of butter and flour and stir it in, and
cook until tender, then take the dripping in the pan or skillet and
thicken it with flour and give it a boil up. Serve for gravy in a sauce
tureen.
ROAST HAM Soak in lukewarm water a ham, the night before
you bake it. Four or six hours before you wish to serve it set it in an
oven or before a moderate fire in a tin kitchen or roasting-pan, turn the
spit frequently and let it roast 2 hours. Then take it up on a dish
or pan and remove the skin nicely. Scrape all the fat off the baking
pan and let it bake 2 or 3 hours longer, basting it often with the
gravy in the bottom of the pan. When it is done, take the ham up
on a dish. It should be brown. Put the gravy in a saucepan, stir i
tablespoonful of flour in a teacup of water, pour it in the same and
boil up. Serve this in a sauce tureen. This is excellent for cold
lunch, well peppered, with cider.
FRIED EGGS AND BACON. This is an old-fashioned and handy
108 PORK AND BACON.
dish when a hasty meal is called for. By a little attention it can be
made a nice dish, and for want of it, will be spoiled. The bacon
to be fried should be scalded a minute or two in a fryingpan on each
side ; then pour off the water before the fat begins to run ; then fry
it a moment until it acquires a 'pale brown ; then remove it on to a
fish strainer, break the eggs carefully into separate cups, so that the
yolks be not broken, and slide them gently into the pan. When the
whole of the white is set, and the under part of a pale brown, take
each up with a knife, and hold them a moment over the panto drain
the fat from them. Some persons turn them all over, but if the eggs
are nicely done, the curled edges are rather an improvement than
otherwise. Each egg may be laid on a slice of bacon, or laid sepa-
rately on the fish plate with the bacon around and garnished with
paisley.
To ROAST A LOIN OF PORK. Cut the skin lengthwise and cross-
wise so as to form small squares and rub it all over with pepper, salt
and finely powdered dry sage leaves ; make an incision between the
ribs and stuff it with dressing made of bread crumbs, chopped on-
ions, pepper and salt, mixed up with the yolk of i or 2 eggs well
beaten. Bake it in a stove or oven, or before the fire on a spit and
baste it often with lard. It may be baked after it is dressed; fat
roast is the sweetest.
COLLARED PIG'S FACE. One pig's face and salt. For brine, i
gallon of water, i pound of common salt, 1-2 handful of chopped
juniper berries, 6 bruised cloves, 2 bay leaves, a few sprigs of thyme,
basil, sage, 1-4 ounce saltpetre. For force meat, 1-2 pound of ham,
1-2 pound of bacon, i teaspoonful of mixed spices; pepper to taste;
1-4 Ib. of lard, i tablespoonful of mixed parsley, 6 young onions ;
singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin and rub
it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above ingredients
for 1-4 hour and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pour it over
the head and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning and rubbing it
often, then wipe, drain and dry it. For the force meat, pound the
ham and bacon very finely and mix with them the remaining in-
gredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Spread this equally over the head, roll it lightly in cloth and bind
it securely with broad tape ; put it into a sauce pan with a few
meat trimmings and cover it over with stock; let it simmer gently
for 4 hours and be particular that it does not stop boiling the
whole time. When quite tender take it up, put it between two
dishes with a heavy weight on the top, and when cold remove
the cloth and tape. It should be sent to the table on a napkin
or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a ruche on
the top. Four hours for preparing it.
PORK AND BACON. ICX)
To BAKE QUARTERS OF PIG. Wash the meat nicely, cut the skin
lengthwise and crosswise into small squares and rub it with pep-
per and salt. If approved a little dust of dried sage ; put it in the
oven with a little water and lard and bake it brown.
ROAST SUCKING PIG. Put a sucking pig, as soon as it is killed,
in a basin of hot, but not boiling water for 2 minutes, then rub off
the hairs with a cloth ; if they do not come off easily put the pig
in the water for i minute more ; make a slit down the belly, take out
the entrails, clean and singe the pig and steep it in cold water for 24
hours ; after which drain and dry it thoroughly with a cloth. Make
stuffing as follows : Chop a large onion together with about a dozen
sage leaves, blanch the whole in boiling water for 5 minutes, drain
and put in a stew pan with a good spoonful of butter, stir over the
fire and simmer for 10 minutes, then add a cupful or more of bread
crumbs ; season with salt and pepper, mix thoroughly and fill the
inside of the pig with the stuffing, sew it up with fine twine, truss the
legs and back and put the pig in the spit to roast before a clear fire,
basting it with butter or salad oil. When the pig is done take it off
the spit, put it on a dish and serve with approved sauce in a
boat.
To DRESS PIG'S FRY. One and one-half pound of pig's fry, 2
onions, a few sage Ieaves2, 2 pounds of potatoes ; pepper and salt to
taste. Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie dish, sprinkle over it
some minced sage and onion and a seasoning of pepper and salt ;
sliced potatoes ; put a layer of these in the seasoning, then the fat
fry, then more seasoning and a layer of potatoes at the top ; fill the
dish with boiling water and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer ; cook
rather more than 2 hours.
To BOIL A GAMMON, OR BOILING HAM, or any Salted or Smoked
Meat, as Neat's Tongue, Hog's Cheeks, &c Set on a kettle of
water, put in 3 or 4 handfuls of hay flowers, cloves, or any sweet
grass green leaves of Indian corn, or the husks ; or if you cannot get
them green, hay tied up in a coarse bag or cloth will do. By this
means the meats will be of a much finer color, more tender, short
and mellow.
An old ham should be* soaked several hours before boiling, and
after being skimmed paint the top with yolks of well beaten eggs ;
sift over finely pulverized cracker and bread crumbs evenly, or cover
over a thin coat of Irish potatoes, straining through a colander ; bake
in a moderate oven 1-2 hour ; skin the ham or not, as you may fancy.
If the skin remains, with a sharp knife you can cut the skin in dia-
mond shapes, then fill it with grated yolks of hard boiled eggs, or
grated beets or carrots ; trim the dish with parsley or the tops of eel-,
ery. If the ham be skinned stick it with cloves in diamond shapes,
I IO PORK AND BACON.
fill up the places with a layer of grated yolks and i white of hard
boiled eggs. Be careful not to blend them. Garnish the dish with
sprigs of green double parsley interspersed with pretty flowers cut
from vegetables ; make red, pink, cream colored and white roses of
beets; purple and yellow roses of carrots, and pearl white with
turnips ; for leaves use mustard or curled parsley. Ornament the
knuckle with letter paper of different colors, or white ; cut with letter
paper.
Miss F.'s RECIPE for preparing whole hams for parties. Boil
them till very done and skin them ; when cold cut through the ham
in slices to the bone, but do not cut the slices from the bone. Be-
tween each slice, put thin pieces of pickle and detach the slices as
needed. The ham dressed by either of these receipts will show to
better advantage by being slightly elevated above the dish. Gar-
nish with parsley or something green. Save the essence or gravy for
boiling cabbage, beans, peas, or Irish potatoes, and soups, &c.
GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c. Use either
rich stock or white stock, denoting the quantity of meat in each.
It may be remarked at the outset that unless glaze is wanted in very
large quantities it is seldom made expressly ; either of the stocks
above mentioned boiled down and realtered considerably, will be
found to produce a very goed glaze. Put the stock into a stew pan
over a nice clear fire, let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, when
keep stirring to prevent its burning. The moment it is sufficiently
reduced and comes to a glaze turn it out into the glazing pot or
white earthenware jar to melt the glaze when required. It should
never be warmed in a sauce pan, lest it should reduce too much
and become black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted of a pale color
more veal than beef should be mixed in making the stock ; and it is
as well to omit turnips and celery, as thev impart a disagreeable bit-
ter flavor.
To GLAZE HAM (boiling). -^Brush over the ham (using a feather
or brush) with the yolk of an egg, cover thickly with bread crumbs
and go over it with thick cream ; put it in the stove or oven to brown,
put the glaze on 1-2 inch thick and if necessary put it on a second
time.
How TO BOIL HAM to give it an excellent flavor. Vinegar and
water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3 onions, a large bunch of
savory herbs. Let the ham soak from 8 to 12 hours, wash it
thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under sides all the rusty
and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance, and let it
soak for a few hours in vinegar and water ; put it on in cold wa-
ter, and when it boils add the vegetables and herbs; simmer very
gently until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread
raspings and put a paper ruche around the knuckle.
PORK AND BACON. Ill
A VALUABLE SUGGESTION. Cut ham or salt pork in slices for
frying or broiling, put to soak over night in equal proportions of
sweet or sour milk and water, for breakfast, and several hours
before any other meal.
To SWEETEN SALT PORK. Cut as many slices as will be re-
quired for breakfast the evening previous and soak till morning
in sweet milk and water, then rinse clean in clear water and fry.
The pork will be found nearly as good as when fresh.
To BAKE A HAM. Many people think a ham is never so thor-
oughly well cooked as in the oven. It should first lie in cold water
for 12 hours, then in warm milk and water for 6 hours. Cover it en-
tirely with a coarse paste or put it into an oiled paper bag, so that
.none of the gravy may escape, and place it on a baking dish and
bake it in a well heated oven for 4 or 5 hours, according to size ;
when taken from the oven remove the paste or bag and the skin.
Brush it over with white of egg, cover it with raspings of bread, and
brown for a few minutes before the fire or stove.
BAKED HAM (Mrs. Denny, San Jose, Cal ) Wash your ham
clean, wipe it dry, then boil it for 2 hours in clear water, then take
off, carefully remove the skin, then put it into a clean oven ; mix
together i pound each of nice sugar and finely powdered bread
crumbs and put them evenly over the ham and bake a nice brown.
It is just as nice as can be. The ham should be new and sweet.
Begin at the hock bone to cut.
TOAST HAM. Chop some lean ham, put in a pan with a little
pepper, a lump of butter and 2 eggs beaten. When beaten thor-
oughly, spread it on buttered toasts and serve hot.
To ROAST A HAM. Trim the ham and soak it for 24 hours to re-
move the salt, then put it into a deep earthen pan with 3 onions and
3 carrots sliced, and 1-2 ounce of black pepper. Pour over a bot-
tle of light French wine, cover it closely up, and let it remain in this
marinade 24 hours, then roast |it before the fire, basting it with
the marinade. It will require from 4 to 5 hours to be well cooked.
Skin it and braise the ham over, and in the meantime reduce the
marinade and gravy over the fire to a sauce and pour it around
the ham when served. It may be eaten hot or cold ; excellent
when cold for lunch.
STUFFED HAM. After boiling the ham skin it, and have ready
a dressing made of corn meal muffins or grated biscuits, add i
moderate sized onion chopped very fine, 2 leaves of sage, pepper,
sugar and salt to taste, a few celey sticks ; with a large knife make
incisions all over the ham and press the dressing in. Mrs.
Rogers.
ROAST HAM. Soak a ham in tepid water the night before you
112 SWEET BREADS.
wish to roast it. Four hours before you wish to serve it set it
before a moderate fire, turn the spit and let it roast two hours,
then bake it upon a dish or pan and take the skin off nicely : scrape
all the fat out of the roaster, put in the ham and let it roast 2 hours
more ; baste it often with the drippings in a sauce pan, stir i table-
spoonful of flour in a teacupful of water, pour it in the sauce and
boil up. Serve in a tureen.
SWEET BREADS:
BAKED SWEET BREADS. Let them lay in water i hour before
using, parboil them, cut slits over them and lay in strips of bacon ;
put the sweet breads in a hollow baking dish, pour in a tumbler of
water in which they were boiled, rub a tablespoonful of flour in a
tablespoonful of butter and add salt and pepper to suit taste,
and serve as soon as done ; i pint of oysters added to the gravy will
improve it.
LAMB'S SWEET BREADS. Blanch them and put them a little while
into cold water, then put them into a stew pan with a teacupful of
broth ; some pepper, salt, a small bunch of onions and a blade ot
mace ; stir in a bit of butter and flour and stew 1-2 hour. Have
ready 2 or three eggs well beaten in cream with a little minced pars-
ley and a few grates of nutmeg. Put in some boiled asparagus tops
to the other things; do not let it boil after the cream is in, but make
it hot, and stir it well all the time. Take care that it does not cur-
dle. Young French beans or peas may be added, first boiled of a
beautiful color.
SWEET BREADS SAUTE. Soak your sweet breads in tepid water
several hours to free them from blood, then pour boiling water over
them and let stand for 3 minutes, then melt some butter in a frying
pan, and put in the sweet breads ; season over with salt, pepper,
juice of lemon, parsley and bay leaf ; turnover till done and serve
hot with maitre d'hotel sauce over.
SWRET BREADS BOILED (Mrs. Bates'.) Parboil, rub them well
with butter and broil on a clean gridiron ; turn them often, and now
and then roll them over in a plate containing hot melted butter to
prevent them from getting hard and dry.
To BROIL A SWEET BREAD. Parboil it, rub it with butter and
broil it over a slow fire ; turn it frequently and baste it now and
then by putting it upon a plate kept warm by the fire with butter in
it,
HASHES.
BKAINS.
To COOK BRAINS. They may be fried in butter, boiled in milk,
and then placed in vinegar or boiled in water 2 or 3 minutes, then
beaten fine, mingled with sage, salt, yolk of an egg, a gill of cream,
fried in the form of drop cakes in butter. They should be carefully
washed before cooking. When well cooked nothing is more deli-
cious.
LAMB'S BRAINS How TO PREPARE THEM. One-half pint of pure
vinegar and tne same of water, salt, and 1-2 lemon or a whole
lime and a heap tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Previously
boil the brains in some vinegar diluted with water, and some salt ;
mince them and add to them the yolk of a beaten egg with a
spoonful of milk or cream and the lemon juice. Liver plack may
be prepared in the same way, but should first be parboiled, then
stewing down with onions, pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, sage and
parsley and thyme till the gravy is clear.
BRAINS. Steep them in cold water for an hour, then pick out
all the skinny particles from the surface, being careful not to bruise
the brains ; when very clean and white put them into a stew pan with
i quart of water, a pinch of salt, a spoonful of vinegar, and boil
gently for 28 minutes.
LANFI means anything cooked in a small quantity of water, oil,
lard, or fat i side at a time. Serve hot with sugar sifted over. Ris-
sole flazzie must be sauted till of a golden yellow, being egged
over.
HASHES.
Hashes, by the manner in which they are prepared, are frequently
impoverished, hardened and rendered indigestible. It is no uncom-
mon thing to see a hash stewed away for an hour or more, or hear a
cook say she must set the hash on in good time to make the gravy
rich. It is no wonder that there are so many persons t be met with
whom hash constantly disagrees. This would not be the case were
the preparing carried on in a proper manner. Let these two obser-
vations be borne in mind for hashes in general : First, that the gravy
should bring richness to the meat, not enriched by it. Second, that
instead of stewing on the hob or corner of the stove, the fewer min-
utes the hash is in the stewpan the better ; even the meat, when un-
derdone, when cut in thin slices, a minute or two will sufficiently do
it. Cold beef, mutton or fowls of any kind will make a most excel-
lent hash as well as beefs heart.
114 HASHES.
MRS. H.'s RECIPE FOR BEEF HASH. Two tumblers of hot water,
a large tablespoonful of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls each of grated cheese
and bread crumbs, season highly with cayenne pepper, and add 3
tumblerfuls of minced beef. Serve as soon as hot. Stir all well to-
gether. This is from a very accomplished housekeeper.
MRS. J.'s BAKED HASH. Take cold round of good beef or mut-
ton and mince it fine, seasoned with a little minced onion, pep-
per and salt. Chop green pickle (onion is the best), add a little
vinegar. Put into a deep dish a layer of meat, then one of
pickle, sliced thin, one of bread crumbs over that, butter and
gravy. Repeat this until all is in, putting bread crumbs and
butter last ; let it bake a few moments until a nice crust is formed,
and serve hot. Should there be but little gravy, moisten with a
little ssveet milk and water mixed in equal proportions. Very
little is necessary.
IRISH POTATO HASH (A Michigan recipe). Peel and wash
Irish potatoes, slice thin and put to stew in a very little water ;
when nearly done, add as much pickled beef, minced very fine,
or cold salt mackerel if liked, (a little onion and minced parsley
may be put in with the Irish potatoes), a large tablespoonful of
butter, pepper and salt to taste. Serve hot. This should just be
moist. Mash the potatoes and mix them well with the meat,
This Is a favorite dish.
To HASH DUCKS. Cut them into pieces, as in carving at table,
and soak them by the side of the fire in boiling gravy, until they
are thoroughly hot. Add a glass of wine and a sufficient quantity
of minced spices to give the sauce a high relish, or cut up the
ducks and make a gravy of the trimmings, and some onions.
Thicken it, when strained, with butter browned with flour; stew
the cut ducks gently until ready, and having seasoned with sauce.
Serve the hash on small slices of fried bread.
To HASH A DRESSED GOOSE. Cut up a large onion and put it
into a stewpan with a little butter ; fry it, but without letting it
become brown; add thereto as much boiling water as will make
sauce for the hash, thicken it with flour, cut up the goose and put
it into the sauce, but do not let it boil. Season with pepper,
salt and catsup.
The legs of geese broiled and served with apple sauce form a
good supper, luncheon or tiffin.
To HASH TURKEY. Cut the flesh into pieces and take off the
skin, otherwise it will give the gravy a greasy, disagreeable taste.
Put it into a stewpan with a pint of gravy, a teaspoonful of lemon
pickle, a slice of the end of lemon and a little beaten mace. Let
it boil 6 or 7 minutes, and then put it into your dish. Thicken your
HASHES. 115
gravy with flour and butter, mix the yolks of 2 eggs with a spoonful
of thick, new cream, put it into your gravy and shake it over the fire
till it is quite hot, but do not let it boil, then strain it and pour it over
your turkey. Lay slices of fried bread around and serve it, and
garnish with lemon and parsley.
EXCELLENT TURKEY HASH. Chop 2 large or 4 medium-sized
onions, put in a frying-pan with enough beef dripping and butter to
fry the onions tender, then add 3 cups of chopped turkey, with salt,
black pepper, a little thyme or nutmeg ; add boiling water enough
to moisten without making much gravy, dredge in some flour and
stir it. Boil and serve it, or turn it over half slices of well-buttered
toast.
To HASH A CALF'S HEAD. Clean and parboil the head, or take
what is left of a plainly-boiled cold head, and cut it into small pieces
or slugs. Peel and slice the tongue. Take upwards of a quart of
liquor in which the head was boiled, with the bones and trimmings,
and a shank of veal or mutton, and boil these for the hash stock
with sage, thyme, parsley, white pepper, onions and a little grated
lemon peel ; boil this gravy until it is good and well flavored, then
thicken it with flour kneaded in butter and strain it into a saucepan.
Season with pounded mace, catsup or lemon pickle, or a little piquant
sauce, and warm up the hash without boiling, though boiling does
not harden calf's head as it does meat. Garnish with forcemeat balls
fried, and fried bread, which form a suitable accompaniment to all
hashes. Pickled oysters added make a great improvement.
To HASH MUTTON. Cut thin slices of dressed mutton, fat and
lean, and flour them. Have ready an onion boiled in 2 or 3 spoon-
fuls of water ; add to it a little gravy and the meat seasoned.
To HASH VENISON. Slice the meat and warm it through without
boiling, in its own gravy, or in any other that is unseasoned. If
there is no fat left from the preceding dinner, that of mutton may
be substituted, by setting it over the fire with a little California wine
and sugar, and letting it simmer until dry; then put it to the hash,
and it will not be distinguishable from the fat of venison. Onions
are a decided improvement.
To HASH COLD FOWL OF ANY KIND, AND ALSO BEEF OR MUTTON.
Cut cold fowls to pieces, and if you have no gravy put in some
water or milk or an equal portion of both (the milk must be sweet
and new), boil until the bones, if there be any, can be taken up on a
dish and removed, while the gravy and meat can be poured with the
true gravy in the saucepan ; then put in butter, pepper and salt.
When it boils, stir up new cream with a little flour and thicken it,
and a well beaten egg can be added, and chopped pickled cucum-
bers. As soon as thoroughly hot, if approved, squeeze in a little
Il6 CROQUETS.
lemon juice, grated nutmeg and lemon peel. Pour the whole into a
dish, strew over it some crumbs of bread browned, and then serve it
hot on the table.
CROQUETS.
CROQUETS OF TURKEY. The remains of cold turkey ; to each
1-2 pound of meat allow 2 ounces of ham or bacon, 2 shallots, i
ounce of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs,
and bread crumbs. The smaller pieces that will not do for a fricassee
or hash will answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely
with the ham or bacon in the above proportions, make a gravy of the
bones and trimmings, well seasoning it, mince the shallots, put them
into a stew pan with the butter, add the flour, mix well, then put in
the mince and about 1-2 pint of gravy made from the bones. (The
proportion of the butter must be increased or diminished according
to the quantity of mince.) When just boiled add the yolks of 2
eggs, put the mixture out to cool, and then shape it in a wineglass,
cover the croquets with egg and bread crumbs and fry them a deli-
cate brown. Put small pieces of parsley stems for stalks and serve
with salted bacon cut very thin. Eight minutes to fry the croquets.
SWEET BREAD CROQUETS. Take some blanched throat of sweet
breads, trim and cut them in 1-4 inch slices ; cut an equal quantity of
mushrooms in the same way and mix both together in some stiffly
reduced German sauce ; make it fry the croquets as above.
POTATO CROQUETS. Roast 12 large Irish potatoes ; when done,
with a spoon or fork take out the inside and form into a ball ; when
cold put them into a mortar with a piece of butter about 1-2 the
size of the ball of potatoes and pound them well together or work
them well with the hands ; season with a little pepper, salt, chopped
shallot, chopped parsley and grated nutmeg; mix with the beaten
yolks of 6 eggs and 2 whole eggs, then form them into croquets
about the size of beaten yolks of 6 eggs and 2 whole eggs, or a
small one; bread-crumb them twice over, fry them a light brown
color in hot lard and serve with a garnature of cresses or parsley or
chopped cabbage lettuce.
CROQUETS can be made of rice and potato or lobster, salmon,
cod, crab, halibut chicken, turkey, duck, goose, game, veal, beef,
lamb or mutton ; all kinds of fowl, flesh, fish and vegetables.
When croquets are small they are called in cookery books "olives"
of meat, vegetables, game, veal, poultry, &c. When these little
popular roulettes are larger they are called risoles or croquettes,
the larger size miratons.
NOTE In the preparation of these little balls or cakes any kind
SCALLOPS. 117
of cold meat, &c., can be used, and the housekeeper can carry
out the Divine command to "gather up the fragments that nothing
remains."
RICE CROQUETS. (Mrs. H.'s) Two cups of cold boiled rice, 2
tablespoonfuls melted butter, 3 eggs beaten light, a little flour, i raw
egg and 1-2 cup of powdered cracker; 2 tablespoonfuls of white
sugar, a large pinch of finely grated lemon peel, and salt to taste. Beat
eggs and sugar together until light, and work the butter well into
the rice ; next stir up with this the beaten eggs ; Season and make
into croquets of whatever shape you fancy. They are pretty moulded
into the form of pears with a clove blossom, and cut at the
large end and the stalk of another projecting from the small to rep-
resent the pear stem. You may find it advisable to use a little
flour in working the rice paste, but be careful not to get it too stiff,
in which event the croquet, of whatever composed, ceases it to be a
delicacy. Roll in flour, then in beaten eggs ; lastly in the pow-
dered cracker, and fry a few at a time in sweet lard or butter.
Rice croquets are sometimes eaten with powdered sugar sprinkled
thickly over them as a dessert or sweet sauce served with them. They
are delicious when properly mixed and cooked.
CROQUETS of field peas, salsify, turnips, beans and parsnips may
be made in the same way, using any kind of meat, leaving out the
sweetening, adding a little chopped onion, shallot or cloves.
SCALLOPS OR COLLOPS.
To DRESS COLLOPS QUICK. Cut them as thin as paper with a
very sharp knife in small bits, throw the skin and any odd bits of the
veal into a little water with a dust of pepper and salt ; set them on
the fire while you beat the collops and dip them into a seasoning of
herbs, bread, pepper, salt and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet
them in egg, then put a bit of butter into a frying pan and give the
collops a very quick fry, for as they are so thin 2 minutes will do
them on both sides ; then put them into a hot dish before the fire,
then strain and thicken the gravy, give it a boil in the frying pan and
pour it over the collops. A little catsup is an improvement ; or fry
them in butter only seasoned with salt and pepper, then simmer them
in the gravy, either white or brown, with bits of bacon served with
them. If white, add lemon peel and mace and some sweet cream.
To DRESS SCOTCH COLLOPS BROWN. Cut your collops the same
way as the white ones, but brown your butter befoie you lay in your
collops ; fry them over a quick fire, shake and turn them, and keep
on them a fine froth ; when they are a light brown put them into a
pot and fry them as the white ones ; when you have fried them all
Jl8 SCALLOPS.
brown pour all the gravy from them into a clean tossing pan with 1-2
pint of the gravy made of the bones and bits you cut the collops off ; 2
teaspoonfuls of lemon pickle, a large one of catsup, the same of
browning, 1-2 ounce of morels, p i-2 lemon, a little cayenne, and salt
to your taste. Thicken it with flour and butter and let it boil 5 or
6 minutes, then put in your collops and shake them over the fire ;
if they boil it will make them hard ; when they have simmered a lit-
tle take them out with an egg spoon and lay them on your dish ;
strain your gravy and pour it hot over them ; lay over the forcemeat
balls and little slices of bacon curled round with a skewer and boiled.
Strew a few mushrooms over ; garnish with lemon and barberries and
serve them up.
MINCED COLLOPS (Mrs. Chevallie, Va.) Take any under part
of the beef, cut it in small pieces, season it with nutmeg, pepper and
salt, put it into a pan with an onion sliced fine and fry a light brown,
then put to it a gill of gravy, a spoonful of catsup, a few capers or
mushrooms, and thicken with a little flour and butter.
FILLET OF VEAL WITH COLLOPS. Take a small fillet of veal and
cut up what collops you want, then take the udder and fill it with
force meat, roll it round, tie it with pack thread across the middle.
Garnish with lemon.
TURKEY SCALLOP (Mother's.) Cut up the cold fowl very small,
removing the bones and skins, then put on the bottom of a well but-
tered dish a layer of fine stale bread crumbs moistened slightly with
new milk, that it may not absorb all the gravy, spread over this a
layer of the minced turkey with bits of cold stuffing, pepper, salt, bits
of butter, then another layer of crumbs, then of the fowl, and thus
continue to repeat till the dish is nearly full. Before putting on the
upper crust pour in the gravy left from the cold turkey, add some
Worcester sauce, catsup and butter. Have ready some crumbs,
seasoned with salt and beaten up light with 2 eggs, then spread it
smoothly over the dish, put lumps of butter plentifully upon it and
bake. Turn a deep plate over the dish until its contents begin to
bubble at the sides, showing that it is thoroughly cooked, which will
take 4 5 minutes.
SCALLOPED OVSTERS. Use a pan or an earthen dish, such as is
adapted for puddings, say about 3 inches in depth, commence by
placing stale bread crumbs on the bottom of the pan or dish, then a
layer of oysters with a little liquor of the oysters over them, drop in
some lumps of butter on the oysters, continue making layers of bread
crumbs and layers of (collops) oysters alternately till the dish is filled.
Cook in a heated oven till thoroughly browned. On each layer of
oysters season with pepper, salt, mace, parsley ; allspice to taste.
SAUSAGES.
SAUSAGES.
SAUSAGES. A well-known, seasoned minced meat of celebrity
requires much care in mingling the seasoning and ingredients in due
proportion to produce that desired harmony of materials that may
defy the critical to discover what they are composed of.
FISH SAUSAGES. Remove the bones and mince any kind of fish
that has been left, then add equal quantities of bread crumbs and
mashed potatoes, with 2 eggs well beaten to bind it ; then add some
cream to make of the proper consistency, season with pepper and
salt, then, with the hands, make into little balls and flatten, and
fry in boiling fat.
SPICED SAUSAGE (French). Black pepper, 5 Ibs. ; cloves and
nutmeg, i 1-2 Ibs. each; ginger, 2 1-2 Ibs.; annise and coriander
seeds, 3-4 lb. each. Mix.
SMOKED SCOTCH SAUSAGES To KEEP AND EAT COLD. Salt a
piece of beef for 2 days and mince it with suet and season highly
with pepper, salt, onion or shallot. Fill the large and perfectly cleaned
ox entrail, plait it in links and hang it up to dry. Boil it as wanted,
either a single link or all together.
. BOLOGNA SAUSAGES. To serve these sausages is to slice them in
rounds about i-S of an inch thick, remove the skins, boil them for a
moment, if preferred, and dish them up with melted butter and pars-
ley, or they can simply be cut up and placed in a dish to be eaten.
ROYAL SAUSAGES. Chop the flesh of quails and of a pullet, with
bacon, a piece of a leg of raw veal, onions or shallots, parsley, mush-
rooms, and season with pepper and salt, beaten spice and a clove or
two of garlic ; then add the yolks of 2 eggs with a little cream ; mix
these well together; roll it in thick pieces and wrap them up in very
thin slices cut out of fillet of a veal beaten flat, so that the sausages
may be about the thickness of 2 inches and 5 inches in length ; then
garnish an oval stewpan with slices of bacon and beefsteaks, and
put in your sausages, cover them with beefsteaks and lay slices of
bacon over the beef; cover the stewpan very close and set it between
two gentle fires, the one under and the other over it, or in a moderate
stove ; let them stew for 8 or 10 hours ; then take them from the fire
and set them by in the stewpan to cool ; then take them out gently,
being careful not to break them, and all the fat; then cut the sau-
sages into slices with a sharp knife, dish them neatly and serve them
up cold.
PORK SAUSAGES. Chop fat and lean pork together, season to
taste with sage, pepper and salt, and you may add 2 or 3 berries of
allspice. Half-fill the small entrails of hogs that have been thor-
I2O CARVING.
oughly cleaned and soak in salt water, or the meat can be kept in a
very small pan closely covered, and so rolled and dusted with very
little flour before it is fried. Serve on stewed red cabbage, poached
eggs, rice or mashed potatoes ; put in a form, brown with salaman-
der and garnish with the above. They must be pricked with a fork
before they are cooked or they will burst.
SAUSAGE MEAT. Take the fat and lean of the shin of pork, 2
parts lean, i part fat, chop or grind it fine, and to 12 Ibs. of sausage
meat take 3 spoonfuls allspice ground, a spoonful each of powdered
sage, thyme, pepper and 8 spoonfuls of salt. Mix it all well together
and fill the skins and hang them in a dry place. The skins of the
entrails are turned on a stick and well scraped and washed in several
waters and kept in salt and water two hours before filling.
To MAKE SAUSAGES. Forty pounds of meat, i Ib. of salt, 3 oz.
pepper, 1-2 pint of pulverized sage and i teacup of molasses or su-
gar. Beat or grind the meat and mix thoroughly.
SAUSAGE THAT WILL KEEP GOOD A YEAR. To 10 Ibs. of meat
add 3 oz. salt, i oz. of ground pepper, 8 tablespoonfuls of sage
leaves (after being measured, should be powdered), and i spoonful
powdered ginger.
CAKVTNG.
This is very plain and simple. Practice is necessary to enable the
carver to hit the joints, either between the several bones on any
of the various joints of poultry or game, or a piece of mutton or
veal. In this necessity (practice) the only real difficulty consists.
Each principle must be considered separately. The first principle
or rule may be laid down (with one exception) with regard to butch-
er's meat ; that is, always cut across the grain or fibre of the meat,
and not uniformly with it. This insures a short fibre and avoids
those long strings in the mouth, which are as unpleasant as they are
difficult to masticate. Therefore the first glance at the meat will de-
termine the carver what to do. The one exception to this rule is this,
that the under sirloin of a beef should always be cut in the direction
of the fibre, while the upper side is cut across the grain, but this is
not an easy task to perform, however, with a bad knife, as the meat
is apt to slip from the bone. The 2d rule to be observed is to see
that the fork should steady the joint for the knife, or when the fork
is used as a means of removing the leg of the fowl or carving a hare,
rabbit, or any other poultry or game the knife must take the office of
steadying the bird. The 3d rule to be observed is, it is important to
cut slices either of game, meat or poultry (in an economical point
of view) down to the line so as to leave no rough or ragged portions
CARVING. 121
behind. In small, quiet parties in the home circle the carving should
be done by the mother or mistress of the house, but in parties of
any size or pretensions it is now the fashion for the father to carve
all the dishes on the side table, but this requires a servant equal to
the task, with assistants in proportion, and also a dining room large
enough to admit of a side board devoted solely to this purpose.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING JOINTS.
THE SADDLE OF MUTTON is carved in three different ways, ist,
by longitudinal slices along each side of the bone, by which the lean
and fat do not come in the same slice ; 2d, by transverse slices, tak-
ing in the bone, and which, consequently, must be thick and clumsy ;
3d, by oblong slices, slightly curved, which is by far the best plan, in
which the knife begins at the bone near the tail, and after cutting off
the outside takes a series of parallel slices through the joint. In
carving a leg of mutton there can be two modes, the choice of which
must depend greatly upon the number to be served. For a small
number, it is better to cut the leg directly across the middle about
half way between first and second joints, but this admits only of a
few good slices, while the other portions are of loose and of coarse
fibre. But by turning up the leg and cutting it exactly on the plan
of the haunch, a much greater proportion of nice and handsome
slices may be obtained, and, consequently, a larger party may all be
equally gratified.
The haunch of mutton or venison is carved very differently by
different people. The common plan is to cut through the flesh be-
tween the leg and loin, and then to run the knife from this to the
lower end of the loin, cutting parallel slices in that direction. A
much better plan, however, consists of making these cuts in one
sweep, carrying the knife directly from the outside of the leg to the
end of the loin, and thus getting a beautiful, long slice of lean with
the fat at the end. There is also a delicious mine of kidney fat in
the loin of mutton under the flank, which is often too high in veni-
son, but if fresh enough it is even richer and more palatable in that
meat than in mutton.
The fore quarter of lamb must be commenced by separating the
shoulder blade, carrying the knife all round it, and in raising it with
the fork ; after which a lemon should be squeezed into the cut sur-
face, and a little pepper and salt then sprinkled over it ; but this may
be much better done in the kitchen than on the dining table. In
order to carve this part the same directions will apply that are given
in the last paragraph ; and for the remaining portion it is only neces-
sary to separate the thin part called the brisket from the ribs, then
122 CARVING.
divide each into transverse sections. One rib is usually served to
each plate, and with this many people like a small division of the
brisket, but the question ought always to be asked before giving
either or both.
In carving a shoulder of mutton or lamb the young housekeeper
should first ascertain the true position of the bone, which is near the
edge on one side. Here the knife must not be inserted, because it
would be stopped at once ; but by trying the opposite side a deep cut
may be made, and from it two surface slices are readily obtained.
When this part is exhausted slices may be procured along the sides
of the blade bone, and again on the outside some few good cuts will
be met with.
The chump end has the tail attached to its upper side, and this
must be taken off horizontally, after which successive slices of
meat are served without any bone, which is all in one piece, and,
therefore, not capable of being divided.
Breast of veal is carved in the same way as the best of the fore
quarter of lamb after the shoulder is removed.
A loin of veal is usually divided into two portions, the chump end
and the kidney end. The latter merely requires to be divided into
portions ab right angles with its length, every other one of which
contains a bone, and the intermediate one is of meat only. Most
persons like some of the fat on the underside, around the kidney,
soread on bread and seasoned, when it eais like marrow.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FOWLS AND GAME.
The roast or boiled chicken, when carved hot, is generally cut into
separate joints, consisting of, ist, the wings; 2d, the legs; 3d, the
merry-thought; 4th, the neck bones ; 5th, the breast; 6th, the back
and its side bones ; yth, the neck. But, excepting for family use, it
is seldom customary to use more than the wings, merry-thought and
breast, or, sometimes in addition, the legs. The plan of proceeding
is to stick the fork in the breast firmly, then draw the knife steadily
along the line between the leg and the body, continuing it forward
until it has separated a slice of the breast with the wing bone. If
the carver is dexterous, he hits the joint at once, and some can re-
move a wing as if there were no bone at all, the art consisting of
guessing at the exact situation of the joint. As soon as the two
wings are removed, the knife is carried down in front of the breast-
bone, scooping out the "merry thought" and readily separating it
from its bony attachments. If the legs are now to be removed the
fork is taken out of the breast, and by sticking the prongs in the leg,
with the knife laid against the flat side, they are readily lifted out of
CARVINO. 123
the sockets, and torn, as it were, from the body. The neck-bones
are now twisted off with the fork, after which the breast is removed
whole by cutting through the ribs with the knife, and then a separa-
ration of the backbone in the middle divides the remaining part of
the body into the back and neck. The former of these may again
have its side-bones easily removed with the knife, each containing a
delicious morsel in a sort of spoon-shaped cavity, which is much
prized by epicures.
When a cold roast fowl is to be served at a breakfast or supper
party, it is often the custom to carve it up completely with a sharp
knife, and then put the joints together again, keeping them in their
places by means of white ribbon tied in bows. This is a very good
expedient in such a case, as it prevents the exhibition of bad carving,
and facilitates the rapid serving of the guests, which is essential to
success in such matters.
Geese and ducks are carved very much on the same principle as
the turkey and fowl, excepting that there is very little meat on the
"merry thought," which is also more difficult to cut off. In the goose
the best parts will be found in the breast, which is, however, not so
meaty as that of the turkey, and the slices are much more shallow.
Ducks are cut in slices when large, or, if small, are disjointed like
fowls. If these are dressed with seasoning, it should not be dis-
tributed on the plates without ascertaining that it is agreeable to the
tastes of the party to be served.
The grouse is usually separated at once into the breast portion,
the back and the legs, which may readily be done without cutting,
by inserting the fork in the former and raising it without depressing
the latter. When this is done the knife may be carried longitudinally
through the breast, so as to divide it into two equal portions, after
which the back and legs may be halved in the same way. Some peo-
ple, however, divide the grouse differently, by cutting off a leg and
a wing together, and leaving a small breast* so as to make either
three or five portions out of the bird.
The guinea chicken is carved in the same way as the grouse, and
so is the quail.
A pheasant may be sliced on the breast like a turkey, after which,
if the party requires it, the plan of carving for the roast fowl must
be adopted.
The woodcock is carved like the grouse, distributing it into four,
or sometimes two portions only, and giving out the toast in the same
way, equally to each plate. The thigh is usually considered the most
delicate part of the bird.
The snipe is only large enough to divide into a breast and back,
with the legs. The toast is the same as for the woodcock.
124 OBSERVATIONS ON EGGS.
Pigeons, larks, etc,, are divided into two portions as the quail or
snipe.
The hare or rabbit is rather difficult to manage nicely, especially if
it is an old one. When the carver has a strong wrist, the most ad-
vantageous way is to carry the knife along on each side of the back
bone, all the way from the shoulder to the tail, and leaving a useless
piece of back in the middle about one-half an inch wide, with a good
fleshy fillet on each side, and the legs ready for subdivision. After
this primary division the side slices are readily served in separate
portions by cutting them across. In default of this strong-armed
method, some carvers cut fillets off the back and serve them, proceed-
ing to do the same with the legs, which may or may not be previ-
ously raised out of their sockets. A third plan consists of removing
the legs and serving them in two portions each, then dividing
the back into sections of about two or three inches in length, and
finally removing the shoulders and serving them also. If this
plan is preferred, and the hare is to be carved by a person de-
ficient in strength of wrist, the prominent part of the backbone
should be removed by the cook from the inside before roasting.
A portion of the forcemeat or stuffing must of course accompany
each plate. The back is considered the best, then the legs, and
lastly the shoulders, which, however, some people prefer to any
other part.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON EGGS.
To PRESERVE EGGS. Put into a tub a basket of quick lime
mixed with i pound of cream of tartar and 2 Ibs of salt, fill up
the tub with water, stirring it till the whole seems dissolved, then
procure fresh eggs and put them as you collect them into the
mixture, in which they will swim, and be preserved for every pur-
pose except the breakfast table for 10 or 12 months.
SUBSTITUTE FOR EGGS. One ounce each of carbonate of ammo-
nia and carbonate of soda dissolved in a pint of water and kept
closely corked. A dessert spoonful of the fluid is sufficient for a
pint basin of plain pudding or cake, &c.
EGGS. The most delicious are those of the plover.
SEA GULLS EGGS. Boiled hard and eaten with salt, pepper, vin-
egar and mustard are considered excellent.
EGGS A LA TRIPE. Eight eggs, 3-4 pint of good spiced gravy,
i dessert spoonful of finely minced parsley ; boil the eggs hard,
put them in cold water, peel them, take out the yolks whole and
shred the whites, make 3-4 pint of bechamel sauce, add the parsley,
and when the sauce is quite hot put the yolks of the eggs into the
OBSERVATIONS ON EGGS. 125
middle of the dish and the shred whites around them ; pour over
the sauce and garnish with leaves of puff paste or fried croutons.
There is no necessity for putting the eggs into the sauce pan with
the bechamel sauce. The sauce being quite hot will warm the eggs
sufficiently. Ten minutes to boil the eggs. Sufficient for 5 or 6 per-
sons. Seasonable at all times.
EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. One-fourth Ib. of fresh butter, i
tablespoonful of flour, i cup of milk, pepper and salt to taste, i ta-
blespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of 1-2 lemon, 6 eggs. Put
the flour and 1-2 the butter in a stew pan, stir them over the fire un-
til the mixture thickens, pour in the milk, which should be boiling,
add a seasoning of pepper and salt and simmer the whole for five
minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce and add
the minced parsley, then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut
the eggs into quarters and put them on a dish, bring the sauce to the
boiling point, add the lemon juice, pour over the eggs and serve ; 5
minutes to boil the sauce, the eggs 10 to 15 minutes. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons ; always seasonable.
A PRETTY DISH OF EGGS. Break some eggs into a tart dish with-
out breaking the yolks, or laying one over the other, drop on them
some warm water and strew lightly some crumbs of bread, put it into
the oven till the whites are set ; serve with a wreath of parsley or
nasturtium flowers around the dish.
BOILED EGGS. To boil eggs lightly for children or invalids, 3
minutes ; 3 3-4 to 4 minutes to suit the generality of tastes ; from
6 to 7 minutes to boil them hard, and from 10 to 15 minutes
for salads. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh or boiled too
soon after they are laid. A new-laid egg requires longer to boil
than one that is 3 or 4 days old. The eggs should be put into
a sauce pan of boiling water very gently with a spoon, letting the
spoon touch the bottom of the sauce pan before it is withdrawn,
that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack. Should the eggs
be unusually large, allow an extra 1-2 minute. Eggs for salads should
be placed in a basin of cold water for a few minutes as soon as taken
up, and then rolled on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel
off nicely.
To BOIL FRESH EGGS (Mrs. H.'s receipt,) Tepid water 4 min-
utes will set the whites, 5 minutes will set the yolks, 10 minutes will
boil them hard. When put in boiling water the whites harden too
fast for the yolk ; tepid water is the best ; or place the eggs in cold
water ; when the water begins to bubble the whites will be well set.
HARD BOILED EGGS WITH ONIONS. Pick 3 good sized sound
(white) onions (the best); cut them in two, then lay each 1-2 on the
board and cut in slices 1-8 inch thick; blanch in boiling water for
126 OMELETS.
5 minutes and drain the onion on a cloth ; put i 1-2 ounce of butter
in a 2 quart stew pan, put the onion in, stir over the fire till they are
brown, add i ounce of flour, 1-2 pint of broth, i pinch of salt, i
small pinch of pepper ; stir ever a slow fire for 20 minutes, take
6 hard boiled eggs, cut them in thin shoes, mix them with the
onion ; taste for seasoning. Garnish with nasturtium leaves, flowers
and buds.
HARD BOILED EGGS WITH SORREL. Put 6 eggs in boiling water
and boil for 10 minutes. This time should not be exceeded, oth-
erwise the yolks would become of a bad color. Put the eggs in
cold water, take them up and roll them on the table when cold,
or remove the shell with the hand, wash them clean and cut each
in two lengthwise; put i 1-2 pint of sorrel prepared for garnish
on a dish, lay the pieces of eggs on it and serve.
-EGGS. After boiling, to prevent them cooking more after taking
them up, break the small end.
OMELETS.
BEEF OMELETS. (Mrs. Adams.) Four pounds of round beef
uncooked chopped fine, 6 eggs beaten together, 5 or 6 soda crack-
ers rolled fine, a little butter, suet, pepper, salt and sage ; make 2
loaves, roll in cracker, bake i hour, slice cold.
OMELET, VEAL (Mrs. F. B. B.) Three Ibs. raw veal chopped
fine, 3 eggs well beaten, 3 spoonfuls of salt, i of pepper, 6 or 7
crackers grated fine ; mix well together, make into a loaf put in a
stew pan, bake with butter and water and a spoonful of cream.
KIDNEY OMELET (A favorite French dish.) Six eggs, i teaspoon-
ful of salt, i pinch of pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys or 2 tablespoonfuls
of minced veal kidney, 5 ounces of butter. Skin the kidneys, cut
them into small dice and toss them into a frying pan in i ounce of
butter over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes; mix the ingredients for the
omelet as for plain omelet, and when the eggs are well whisked stir
in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter hot in the frying pan, and
when it bubbles pour in the omelet and fry it over a gentle fire from
4 to 6 minutes ; when the eggs are set fold the edges over, so that
the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful that it is not too
much done ; to brown the top hold the pan before the fire for a min-
ute or two, or use a salamander until the desired color is obtained ;
but never turn the omelet in the pan ; slip it carefully on to a dish
very hot, or what is a much safer method, put a dish on the omelet
and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant it
comes from the fire; 4 to 5 minutes. Seasonable at any time.
OMELETS WITH CHEESE. For cheese omelets put into your eggs
a tablespoonfuls of grated California cheese and proceed as above.
OMELETS.
MRS. F.'s OMELETS. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs, i cup of milk, i
cup of flour, i teaspoonful of yeast powder ; Beat the whites of the
3 eggs to a froth.
To MAKE A FISH OMELET. There are two ways of making these,
one is merely to flake some ready cooked fish ; salt cod is very suit-
able; season with cayenne pepper, nutmeg and white pepper; mix
it with 6 beaten eggs and one dessert spoonful of cream or milk, fry
it on one side only, fold it and serve. Salt shad makes a nice ome-
let.
OMELET WITH SHRIMPS. Fry an omelet, put the shrimps (which
have been cooked and buttered) in it before folding it, turn the ome-
let in a dish, pour some sauce around it and serve.
EGG AND OYSTER OMELET. Beat up 4 eggs and season to taste,
chop up 6 large oysters, make a batter of a half cupful of flour and
a cup of milk. Mix and stir the whole well together and fry very
slowly.
OYSTER OMELET. Chop i 1-2 dozen oysters very fine and mix
them with 8 well beaten eggs and 3 spoonfuls of flour thoroughly.
Fry them as directed for tomato omelet.
FRIED EGGS. Four eggs, 1-4 Ib. of lard, butter or clarified
drippings. Place a delicately clean frying pan over a gentle fire,
put in the fat and allow it to come to the boiling point, break
the eggs into cups and slip them into the boiling fat and let them
remain until the whites are delicately set ; and whilst they are fry-
ing ladle a little of the fat over them. Take them up with a knife,
drain them for a minute from their greasy moisture, trim them
neatly and serve on slices of nice ham or bacon, or the eggs may
be placed in the middle of the dish with bacon put around as a
garnish. Sufficient for 2 persons. Cook 2 to 3 minutes ; seasona-
ble always.
FRIED EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE. Put 3 tablespoonfuls of oil in
a saute pan, tilt it up on the corner of the stove to collect all the oil
in one place, and hold the pan over a sharp fire ; when the oil is
hot break one egg in it ; season with a little salt and pepper with 2
onions, gather the white of the egg over the yolk so as to form a
ball, turn it over and drain it immediately ; fry separately in the same
way as many eggs as may be required ; the yolks should not be set.
Sprinkle with pepper and salt, put on a dish and serve with 2 gills of
tomato sauce, and garnish with the green leaves and the flowers of
nasturtium.
EGGS ON THE DISH. Spread i ounce of butter on a round trim-
med iron dish, sprinkle with 1-2 pinch of salt and a small pinch of
pepper; break 6 new laid eggs in a dish, sprinkle over another half
pinch of salt and 2 small pinches of pepper ; put on the stove with
I2 8 OMELETS.
live coals on the glazing cover; cook for 4 minutes; when the
whites are set the eggs are done ; serve in the dish in which they
have been cooked.
ROASTED EGGS. Covered in hot ashes for 1-2 hour are excel-
lent ; they should be wrapped in paper and dipped in water, and
then covered with hot ashes, or the small end may simply be
cracked or wet in cold water, then put over them a layer of cold
ashes, and then covered with hot ashes ; eaten with pepper, salt and
butter, or with salt only.
THE CURE'S OMELET. For 6 persons. Take the roes of any 2
fish, bleach them by putting them 5 minutes in boiling water
slightly salted ; take a piece of mackerel or sea bass about the
size of a hen's egg, to which add a shallot already chopped, hack
up together the roe and the mackerel or bass, so as to mix them
well, and throw the whole into a sauce pan with a sufficient quantity
of very good fresh butter ; whip it until the butter is melted. This
constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of
butter, as much as you like, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in
a long shaped dish destined to receive the omelet, squeeze the juice
of a lemon over it and place it on hot embers; beat up 12 eggs (the
fresher the better), throw up the saute of roe and mackerel, stirring
it so as to mix all well together, then make your omelet in the usual
manner, endeavoring to turn it out long, thick and soft. Spread it
carefully on the dish prepared for it and serve at once. This dish
should be reserved for assemblies when connoisseurs meet, who know
how to eat well.
The roe and mackerel must be beaten up (saute) without allow-
ing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent
their mixing well with the eggs. Your dish must be hollowed
toward the center to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may
be helped with a spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated,
otherwise it would extract the heat from the omelet. As soon as
the spoon enters the omelet a thick, rich juice ought to flow, pleas-
ant to the eye as well as grateful to the smell.
OMELET AU RHEIMS (French.) Beat well 4 eggs, add 2 ounces
sifted sugar, 2 ozs. currants washed and dried in a cloth and plumped
in brandy. Fry in a pan with boiling lard, serve with a glass of
rum poured over it ; send it burning hot to the table.
FRENCH PROMISES OR OMELET. Mix together 1-2 pint of milk, 2
teaspoonfuls of French brandy, i egg and a little grated ginger ;
mix it with flour to a proper thickness for pancakes and drop into a
frying pan with the lard very hot.
OMELET WITH HERBS. Six eggs will make a nice omelet for 2
rsons for supper ; a teaspoonful of salt, a salt spoonful of pep-
per; break them carefully in a basin, (one tainted egg will spoil all
OMELETS. 129
the rest;) add 3-4 of a tablespoonful of salt and a salt spoonful of
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, 1-2 a one of fine chop-
ped onions ; beat them well, add i large spoonful of butter in a nice
clean and dry frying pan, place it then on the fire, and when the but-
ter is hot pour in your eggs, which keep mixing quick with a spoon
until all is delicately set, then let it slip to the edge of the pan en
mass ; lay hold of the handle, raising it slantwise, which will give an
elongated form to the omelet ; turning the edges let it set a minute,
turn on a dish and serve.
OMELETS WITH MUSHROOMS. Add a couple of middling sized
mushrooms cut very thin and proceed as for herb omelet.
OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS. Make an omelet with 8 eggs
very slightly salted, garnish it before folding with asparagus peas
mixed with German sauce. When colored turn the omelet on a
dish, poursorne German sauce around it and serve.
GREEN CORN OMELET. Grate 6 or 7 ears of boiled green corn,
stir in with it 3 well beaten eggs, some butter, pepper and salt; fry
in a well buttered skillet as other omelets. When done set in a stove
to brown a little.
OMELET WITH PEPPER GRASS OR NASTURTIUM. Cut the pepper
grass 1-2 inch in length, plain boil them in salt and water till done,
add 2 spoonfuls of your egg, and proceed as for herb omelet. The
water cress can be used instead of the pepper grass.
TOMATO OMELET. Beat up 6 eggs and mix them with six large
tomatoes peeled and chopped very fine and 3 tablespoonfuls of flour.
Stir well together and fry on a well cleaned griddle.
SAN FRANCISCO OMELET. Take a dozen large sound apples and
boil them as for sauce, stir to this pulp 4 ounces each of butter and
sugar to taste ; when cold add 4 well beaten eggs, then butter well a
deep baking dish, both sides and bottom, thickly strew crumbs of
bread so as to stick all over the bottom, put in the apples and egg
mixture and strew crumbs plentifully over the top ; when baked pour
it into another dish and grate sugar over it.
To MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET. Six eggs, 4 ounces of but-
ter, i ounce of sifted sugar; break the eggs into a basin, omitting
the whites of 3, whisk them well, adding the sugar and 4 ounces of
the butter, which should be broken into small pieces and stir all
these ingredients well together. Make the remainder of the butter
quite hot in a small frying pan, and when it commences to bubble
pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them until they begin to
set, then turn the edges of the omelet over to make it an oval
shape and finish cooking it. To brown the top hold the pan be-
fore the fire or on a salver under, and turn it very carefully on
to a very hot dish ; sprinkle sifted sugar over and serve ; cook
from 4 to 5 minutes. Always seasonable.
OMELETS.
A MATCHLESS OMELET. Break 10 eggs in a basin, beat up
with them i spoonful of powdered white sugar and a small pinch
of salt; butter a small pancake pan, pour in 2 tablespoonfuls of
the egg, letting it spread in the pan like a pancake; fry it for a
few minutes and fold one side to the center, put a little apricot
jam on the centre, fold the 2 ends to the middle over the jam,
and roll the omelet round. Make 6 of these small omelets, put
them on a dish, sprinkle over some fine sugar, glaze them with
a hot salamander and serve. This omelet is nothing more than egg
pancakes, and should always be made very light and thin.
OUR FAVORITE OMELET. Scald a pint of milk, into which stir the
yolks of 5 eggs, a tablespoonful each of sugar and flour, and lastly
the whites of the eggs well beaten. Bake in a quick oven.
To MAKE A PLAIN OMELET. Six eggs, i pinch of salt, 1-4 Ib. of
butter; pepper. Break the eggs in a basin, omitting the whites of
3 and beat them all up with the salt and pepper until extremely
light, then add 2 ounces of butter broken into small pieces, and stir
this into the mixture. Put the 2 ounces of butter into a frying pan,
make it quite hot, and as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs,
&c.. very briskly for a minute or two and pour them into the pan ;
stir the omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and
becomes firm, and when the whole is set fold the edges over so that
the omelet assumes an oval form, and when it is nicely brown on one
side and quite firm it is done. To take off the roughness on the up-
per side hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two and brown
it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve very expeditiously on a
very hot dish, and never cook it until it is just wanted. The flavor
of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars-
ley, minced onion or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing i tablespoon-
ful of the former and 1-2 the quantity of the latter to the above pro-
portion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the latter
should be scalded in their liquor and then bearded and cut into
small pieces. In making an omelet be particularly careful that
it is not too thin, and to avoid this do not make it in too large a fry-
ing pan, as the mixture would then spread too much and taste of the
outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt or too much done, and
should be cooked over a gentle fire, and the whole of the substance
may be heated without drying up the outsides. Omelets are some-
times served with gravy, but this should never be poured over them,
but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become
icavy and flat instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy
flavor should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be
:ened with arrow root or rice flour. Cook with 6 eggs in a fry-
ing pan 1 8 to 20 inches round 2 to 6 minutes. Seasonable always.
SANDWICHES
SANDWICHES.
CHEESE SANDWICHES, Slices brown bread and butter, and thin
slices of cheese. Cut from any good, rich cheese, some slices about
1-2 an inch thick and place them between some slices of brown
bread and butter, like sandwiches, place them on a plate in the
oven, and when the bread is toasted serve on a napkin very hot,
quickly. Ten minutes in a brisk oven. One sandwich to each
person. Always seasonable.
SANDWICH CREAM CHEESE. Put a small quantity of very fresh
cream cheese in a basin or marble mortar, season with some pep-
per and salt, a little powdered mustard and beat well together till
of thickness of batter. If too hard add a little butter and use it as
butter on the bread with slices of meat between,
CHICKEN SANDWICHES. Cut some slices of bread and butter, as
described in ham sandwiches. Sprinkle over some salt and garnish
the sandwiches with fillets of cold roast chicken, cut very thin, press
and cut the sandwiches as ham sandwiches. Dish them on a nap-
kin.
SUMMER SANDWICHES. Make the sandwiches in the ordinary way
by buttering both sides of the slices of bread and putting thin slices
of tongue, roast mutton, or beef, or boiled ham, poultry, or game,
with a slight seasoning of pepper, mustard, salt, and some add
shreded lettuce, cress, or any of the salad vegetables, over the meat.
Herring is also very nice to use ; when cooked, then press the sand-
wiches and cut and serve them as cheese sandwiches. Lobsters and
other fish are nice, and also oysters are delicious.
SANDWICH DRESSING. Chop fine and mix thoroughly tongue,
ham, veal, mutton or beef, tender and well cooked, the white
meat from a roasted or boiled fowl or game, some nasturtium
pods or flowers, all in equal portions, and also hard-boiled eggs
chopped to mince, some piquant vegetable or sauce, a little cream
and butter, and some mustard beaten fine. Mix all thoroughly,
then spread evenly on buttered slices of bread and form the
sandwiches. Fish or any of' the Crustacea may be used.
VINEGAR SANDWICHES (Mrs. Scott). Grate or chop very fine,
old ham, beat an egg thoroughly and mix with some ground
mustard ; let boil i cup of wine vinegar, stir in the egg and mus-
tard and mix with the ham. After buttering well some bread,
spread on this the prepared mixture.
SANDWICH SALAD. Cover the bread as before, and have ready
some mustard, cress and water-cresses well washed and dried,
put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce. When ready place it
neatly between the bread.
1^2 SANDWICHES.
HERRING TOAST SANDWICH. Choose a North Carolina herring
for this purpose, but not too dry, which should be divided by
cutting down the back; lay them upon a dish and pour boiling
water over them. Let them remain for five minutes, then lay
them on a cloth to dry; then broil them slowly for four or five
minutes on a gridiron until done ; then have ready some crisp toast
in thin slices, butter them slightly, take out the bones of the
fish, lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and
cover over with the other; then put one upon the other sand-
wich. Serve very hot. Dried haddock and sardines laid over cold
may be served in the same way.
SANDWICH PASTRY. Roll out two pieces of paste very thin and
of equal size. Spread any kind of jam over one of them and cover
with the other. Bake it, cut it in slices or rounds and glaze it with
French mustard.
HAM SANDWICHES. Remove all the crust from a loaf of bread
baked in a tin, butter and cut up the bread into slices 1-8 of an inch
thick, cover one slice of bread very evenly with thin slices of boiled
ham laid on the buttered side ; spread a little mustard on the top ;
proceed in the same way until all the bread is used ; press the slices
tightly together and cut them through into pieces 2 1-2 inches by
i 1-2. Dish the sandwiches on a napkin and serve.
VEAL AND HAM SANDWICHES. Simmer veal and ham knuckle a
long time in very little water until perfectly tender, then take out the
bones and gristles and chop the meat together to a pulp, then spread
it over bread as you would butter, and add mixed mustard over it,
then butter another slice of bread rather lightly and put over the
other slice of bread, as for common sandwiches.
BEEF AH MODE. Take the tenderest part of a round of beef
and lard it with bacon, season with onions and parsley cut fine, a
little salt, pepper and nutmeg. Put it on the fire with slices of fat and
lean bacon at the bottom of the pan and cover it with the same ;
put in chopped carrots and a glass of white wine, and let it boil
gently for 3 hours, taking care that it does not stick to the pan.
Strain the gravy. Skim off the grease and serve up very hot. Con-
tributed by Mrs. Mary Upshur Sturgis; New York City.
BEEF LOAF. 3 1-2 Ibs. of round of steak chopped very fine, i
cup of crumbled or powdered crackers, 2 well beaten eggs, i cup
>! new milk, i tablespoonful salt, i teaspoonful pepper and i spoon-
lul butter. Mix well, then put into a deep pudding dish in the form
of a loaf. Bake 31-2 hours.
PRESSED C HIC KEN.-Boil a chicken until tender; chop fine, seas-
11 with pepper, salt and butter, put into a cloth or flat bottomed
eep dish or bowl, and put a heavy weight on it. It is delicious to
cat cola for lunch or tea.
FOWLS. 133
A SIMPLE WAY TO BAKE HAM. Wash your ham over night with
homemade soap, rubbing it with a cloth, then scrape it well and rinse
it well in several waters with a clean rag, wipe it dry and put it into
clean water and let it remain untill next morning, then wipe it per-
fectly dry. Make a dough of flour and water, roll out 1-2 an inch
thick, then wrap your ham closely in it, so the juice cannot escape
and bake until done, then take off the crust and serve either cold or
hot for lunch or tea. Cut in thin slices. The skin may be taken off
or not, as one fancies.
A DRY DEVIL. Take the liver, gizzard and drumsticks of a turkey,
and score them ; lay on made mustard very thickly, and add a quan-
tity of cayenne pepper and broil them.
FOWLS.
REMEMBER that practice makes perfect, and that "little by little "
we accomplish great things.
How TO PREPARE FOWLS FOR COOKING. Turkey, for instance:
Pick your turkey well, pick out all the pin-feathers, singe it over a
clear blaze, pull out all the shreds of fat, bloody bits, lungs, ^..leav-
ing the inside perfectly clean. Be careful and not break the gall in
taking out the liver it almost spoils your stuffing, as no amount of
washing can remove it from the inside of the turkey. Boil the heart,
gizzard and liver until tender, chop very fine and add to the stuf-
fing, which should be made of stale bread, if you have it, if not,
crackers pounded fine. Season with salt, pepper, sage and butter
to your taste. Mix with boiling water, being very careful not to put
too much, as the beauty of the stuffing is to be dry. When light
add i or 2 beaten eggs. Now the turkey being made ready one day
before, is stuffed, rub it all over thoroughly with salt under the wings
and thighs, that it may be well seasoned when cooked, as many are ex-
ceedingly fond of the brown, crisp skin which is much nicer to be salted
before cooking. Bind the wings down with wrapping cord, tie the
legs together and tie them to the body of the bird. It is a good plan
to cut all the trussing strings 1-2 hour before taking the turkey from
the oven, that the heat may reach under the wings and thighs ; lay
the turkey upon a cricket in the dripping pan, never upon the pan,
as the oily water soaks in and injures the flavor. If no cricket comes
with your dripping pan you can have one made of hard wood strips
1-2 inch square, two i foot long and four 8 inches long for cross
pieces nailed together an inch from end to end, to be used in cook-
ing or roasting all kinds of meats ; must be thoroughly and care-
fully washed every time and dried, or you can have a tin cricket made.
Put no water into the dripping pan until the turkey has cooked
134 FOWLS.
long enough to allow the fat to drip down and brown at the bottom
of the pan. By this means you obtain the much prized gravy with
less trouble than the usual way of toasting flour for the thickening.
After you have put water into the pan baste the fowl frequently by
dipping it over it. Dust flour over the turkey and lay on all the fat
that has been taken from the inside. It melts and runs down, and
thus keeps the skin from drying too much. Put a turkey weighing
10 or 12 Ibs. into the oven at 8 o'clock in the morning if you dine at
12. It should be baked for 4 hours. In winter the stuffing should
be prepared the day before, as the mornings are short ; when you
remove the turkey to the platter or dish remember to take out the
shreds used to sew up the bird before roasting, as it may inconven-
ience the carver^by getting his knife entangled in it. After the gravy
is thickened and cooked pour it into a bowl or tureen and let the fat
rise, and remove every spoonful of it. Then if you choose you can
put it back into the dripping pan and add, after removing the fat, a
portion of butter, and then pour it into the gravy tureen for the
table.
To BOIL CHICKENS. After you have drawn them, lay them in
skimmed milk for 2 hours and truss them. When you have prop-
erly singed and dusted them with flour cover them closely in cold
water and set them over a slow fire. Having taken off the scum
and boiled them slowly 5 or 6 minutes, take them off the fire and
keep them closely covered for 1-2 hour in the water, which will do
them sufficiently and make them plump and white. Before you dish
them set them on the fire to heat ; then drain them and pour over
them white sauce, which you have just made ready in the following
manner: Take the heads of th^ chickens with a small piece of scrag
veal, or any scraps of mutton you may have by you, and put them
in a sauce-pan with a blade or two of mace, a few black pepper-
corns, a head of celery, a slice of the end of a lemon and a bunch
of parsley and thyme. Put to these a quart of water, cover it closely
and let it boil until it is reduced to 1-2 pint ; then strain and thicken
it with a cup of butter mixed with flour and boil 5 or 6 minutes;
then put in 2 spoonfuls of mushroom, walnut or tomato catsup and
mix the yolks of 2 eggs with a teacupful of cream and a little nut-
meg grated. Put in your sauce and keep shaking over the fire till
it is near boiling ; then pour it into your boat and serve it up with
your chicken.
BOILED FOWL with oysters is excellent. One young fowl, 3 dozen
oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, and 1-4 pint of cream. Truss a young
fowl as for boiling, fill the inside with oysters which have been bearded
and washed in their own liquor ; secure the ends of the fowl, put it
into a jar and plunge the jar into a sauce-pan of boiling water.
FOWLS. 135
Keep it boiling i 1-2 hours, or rather longer; then take the gravy
that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which there will be a
good quantity, stir in the cream and yolks of eggs ; add a few oys-
ters scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get quite hot, but do not
allow it to boil ; pour some of it over the fowl and the remainder
send to the table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace added to
the sauce with the cream and eggs will be found an improvement.
FOWLS BOILED WITH RICE. Stew the fowl very slowly in some
clean mutton broth well skimmed, and season with onion, mace,
pepper and salt. About 1-2 hour before it is ready, put in 1-4 Ib.
of rice well washed and soaked ; simmer until done, then strain it
from the broth, and put the rice in a sieve before the fire. Keep
the fowl hot, lay il in the middle of the dish, and the rice around it,
without the broth. The broth will be very nice to eat as such, but
the less liquor the fowl is done with, the better. Gravy, or parsley
and butter for sauce.
To BROIL FOWLS. Pick and truss your fowl the same as for boil-
ing; cut it open on the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth,
season with pepper and salt; have a clear fire and set on the grid-
iron at a good distance from it ; lay the chicken on with the inside
toward the fire (you may egg it and strew some grated bread over it)
and broil it till it is of a fine brown color ; take care the fleshly side
is not burned. Lay it on a hot dish, pickled mushrooms or mush-
room sauce to be thrown over it, or parsley and butter, or melted
butter flavored with mushroom catsup. Garnish with slices of lemon
and the liver and gizzard slit and notched, seasoned with pepper and
salt and broiled nicely brown, and some slices of lemon.
To BROIL CHICKENS WHOLE. Split your chickens down the back,
or underside through the breast-bone, season them with pepper and
salt, and lay them on the gridiron over a clear fire and at a great
distance. Let the inside continue next to the fire until they are
nearly half-done; then turn them, taking care that the fleshy sides
do not burn, and let them broil until they are of a fine brown. Have
ready good gravy sauce with some mushrooms, and garnish them
with lemon and the livers broiled, the gizzards cut, slashed and
broiled, with pepper and salt.
SMALL CHICKENS may be broiled in the same way as well as ducks
and young turkeys.
BROILED CHICKENS Split your chickens down the back or stom-
ach. If you wish them for breakfast, let them remain over night in
salt and water. Then put them in a boiler or gridiron over bright
coals, free from smoke ; put a cover over them to make them cook
faster. Baste frequently with pepper, salt, butter and a little vinegar
(if liked). In the meantime boil your giblets in water, chop and.
136 FOWLS.
make them fine. Make a gravy of some of the water in which they
were boiled, some butter and minced parsley, and pour it over the
chicken, and serve in a hot dish.
To FRY CHICKENS. Cut your chickens into quarters or every
limb separate, and rub them with flour, the yolk of an egg or dip
them in a thin batter, then strew on them some crumbs of stale
bread, with pepper and salt and chopped parsley. Fry them in sweet
bacon grease, butter or lard. Bacon grease is the best, and when
done, put them into your dish on a hot stove ; then pour some cream
into the pan, or fresh sweet milk, a small portion thickened with a
teaspoonful of flour, and poured in and stirred and poured over the
chicken, and serve hot. Or, if preferred, grated nutmeg, lemon
peel, a small quantity of cayenne pepper, some mushroom pow-
der, or catsup, and a little lemon juice may be added to the
gravy.
FRIED CHICKENS (Mrs. E. A. B. Upshur, Virginia). When the
chickens are cleaned and cut up, dip the pieces in beaten yolks of
eggs, then roll them in bread crumbs and sprinkle with black pep-
per and salt. While they are frying, make a gravy of rich cream
seasoned with a little nutmeg and chopped parsley stewed together.
Pour the gravy into the dish and lay the chicken on it.
FRIED CHICKEN WITH LEMON PEEL. The remains of roasted
fowl, vinegar, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, 4 minced shallots,
yolk of egg ; to every teaspoonful of bread crumbs allow i blade of
pounded mace, 1-2 teaspoonful of minced lemon peel, 2 pinches of
salt, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. Steep the pieces of fowl
as in the preceding recipe ; then dip them in the yolk of egg or clar-
ified butter, sprinkle over bread crumbs, with which have mixed
salt, mace, cayenne pepper-antf lemon p. el in the above proportions.
Fry of a light brown and serve with or without gravy, as may be pre-
ferred. Ten minutes to fry the fowl.
To FRY CHICKEN (Georgia Cook). After cutting up the chick-
ens, salt and pepper, flour and fry them in boiling lard or oil; when
the whole are fried, drain off the lard and add a good spoonful of
sweet butter, a little flour stirred into a teacupful of sweet cream,
and some scalded parsley minced fine for the gravy.
FRIED CHICKEN. Take nice, fat, young chickens about half-grown,
cut into nice pieces and salt and pepper to taste. Roll or dredge
thickly with flour or corn meal, and stir in boiling lard. They will
be more tender by covering while cooking (even a rather hot lid
with some hot embers on it), When a nice brown, take it up, and
to make a nice gravy add 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of flour to the lard,
in which the chicken has been fried. Stir well and add water or
sweet milk to make of the proper consistency, stirring all the while.
Season to taste.
FOWLS. 137
CHICKENS FRIED IN BATTER. Prepare your chickens as for fry-
ing, then make a batter of 2 eggs well beaten, i teacup of milk,
some salt, and sufficient flour to make thin batter. Then dip each
piece of chicken into the batter and fry in hot lard or the essence of
sweet fat bacon.
FRIED FOWLS. The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt and
cayenne pepper to taste, and 3 or 4 minced shallots. For the bat-
ter, 1-2 Ib. of flour, 1-2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, and the
whites of 2 eggs. Cut the fowls into nice joints, steep them for an
hour in a little vinegar, with salt, cayenne pepper and minced shal-
lots. Make the batter by mixing the flour and water smoothly together ;
melt it in the batter, and add the whites of eggs beaten to a froth,
and fry in boiling lard a nice brown. Pile them high in the dish and
garnish with fried parsley or rolled bacon. When approved a sauce
or gravy may be served with them. Ten minutes to fry the fowl.
Seasonable at any time.
FRIED CHICKEN GRANGER METHOD. Two young chickens cut
up at the joints, 3 eggs beaten light, i cup of bread or cracker
crumbs, sweet lard, dripping or olive oil (commonly known as sweet
or salad oil). After preparing the chickens, let them remain 1-4
of an hour in salt and water, wipe the pieces dry, pepper and
salt them, dip them into the well beaten eggs, then into meal,
flour or bread crumbs, and fry slowly in hot lard, dripping or
olive oil. Pile on a hot dish and lay over sprigs or parsley.
CHICKEN CUTLETS. Two chickens seasoned to taste with salt,
white and cayenne pepper, 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and
bread crumbs, clarified butter, i strip of lemon rind, 2 carrots, i
onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, thickening of butter,
fk ur and i egg. Remove the breasfrand leg bones of the chickens,
cut the meat into neat pieces after having skinned it, and season
the cutlets with pepper, salt, pounded mace and cayenne. Put
the bones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan with i pint of water,
adding carrots, onions and lemon peel in the above proportion.
Stew gently for i 1-2 hour and strain the gravy. Thicken it with
butter and flour, add the catsup and i egg well beaten ; stir it
over the fire and bring it to the simmering point, but do not let
it boil. In the meantime egg and crumb the cutlets, and give
them a few dips of clarified butter ; fry them a delicate brown,
occasionally turning them. Arrange them pyramidically on the dish
and pour over them the sauce. Ten minutes to fry cutlets.
THE DUCK. This bird belongs to the order called swimmers or
natatores. It lives mostly (when it can) in water, feeding on fish,
worms and aquatic plants, and makes its nest in a moist place. Its
flesh is savory, not being as gross as that of the goose and easier of
138 FOWLS.
digestion, though the flesh of many is not eatable, being extremely
rank and oily. It requires a mixture of vegetable and animal food,
for it is by no means a nice feeder, and is excessively greedy. Its
proper food is corn, aquatic insects and vegetables. There are nearly
a hundred different species of ducks, so naturalists say. Light-col-
ored ducks are always of a milder flavor than the dark-colored ones,
and consequently are more valuable for table use. The flesh of
ducks and all fowls fed on animal food will be firmer than that fed
on vegetable food, but when fed on the latter it is much whiter and
more delicious. Ducks are generally served with apple sauce.
To STEW A DUCK WITH GREEN PEAS. Parboil a duck, then
put it into a stewpan with a pint of gravy, some mint and 3 or
4 leaves of sage cut small. Cover the pan and stew for 1-2 an
hour. Thicken the gravy and put in 1-2 pint of green peas
ready boiled ; dish up the duck and peas together. Garnish with
boiled mint chopped very fine.
STEWED DCCKS. Half-roast a duck; put it into a stewpan with
a pint of gravy, a few leaves of sage and mint cut small, pepper,
salt and a small bit of onion chopped as fine as possible. Sim-
mer 1-4 of an hour and skim clean, then add nearly a quart of
green peas. Cover closely and simmer nearly 1-2 an hour. Put
in a piece of butter and a little flour, and give it one boil ; then
serve it in one dish.
BRUNSWICK STEW. Put into your soup kettle a nice, fat, young
chicken or more, or a hen or two half-grown chickens, then pour
in water enough to cover it, salt to taste, and let it stew until
tender. If a hen, it should cook longer than young chickens ;
cut i gallon of thoroughly riye tomatoes and season them with
butter, an onion, i teacup of sugar, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, pep-
per and salt, as you would to stew, put them in the kettle with
the chicken, and i hour before you serve it, cut the grains off
12 large ears of corn and add to it. The chicken should be
cooked so tender that it will fall to pieces, and when taking it
up remove the bones. Young ducks, guinea chickens, squabs,
or young rabbits make a fine substitute for young chickens.
Young turkeys will do.
BRUNSWICK STEW. Two squirrels or small chickens, i quart of
peeled and sliced tomatoes, 6 parboiled potatoes sliced, 6 or 7
ears of green corn cut from the cob, i cup of butter, 8 oz. fat pork,
a pepper-box top full of ground black pepper, a large pinch of cay-
enne pepper, 4 quarts of water, i tablespoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls
white sugar, and i onion minced small. Let the water boil, then
put in the vegetables, the pork or bacon cut into shreds, potatoes,
and pepper. The squirrels or chicken must be cut into joints and.
FOWLS. 139
laid in cold salt and water to draw out the blood Cover closely and
stew slowly 2 1-2 hours, frequently stirring from the bottom. Then
add the tomatoes and the sugar, and stew another 1-2 hour longer.
Ten minutes before you take it up from the fire add the butter, give
it a final boil, taste to see that it is seasoned to your liking and turn
it into a deep dish or tureen. It should be eaten from soup plates.
This stew is named from Brunswick county, Virginia, where the
large gray squirrel is abundant, as in all parts of that State.
NOTE. Chickens or fowls are improved in flavor if, before cook-
ing, they be rubbed inside and outside with lemon juice or a weak
solution of pure fruit vinegar and water. This will also improve the
flavor of pork, though the lemon juice is used after being served on
the table.
ROASTED DUCK. A particularly tender duck should be procured
for roasting. Stuff the duck with stuffing prepared as follows: Take
4 onions cut in slices, with 24 sage leaves, blanch both for 5 min-
utes, drain and chop fine ; put in a stewpan with i spoonful of but-
ter, 2 pinches of salt and 2 small pinches of pepper ; simmer gently
for 10 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon; add a handful of
bread crumbs and stir for 2 minutes more ; the stuffing is then ready
for use ; truss the duck and put it to roast before a brisk fire for 16
minutes. Roasted duck should be sent to the table rather under-
done. Remove the string, pour the gravy under the duck and serve.
If not stuffed, a garnish of water-cresses is sometimes served around
roasted ducks.
To BOIL DUCKS. Choose a fine, fat duck, salt it 2 days, and then
boil it in a cloth. Serve with onion sauce, but melt the butter with
milk instead of water.
BOILED GOOSE (Mrs. D. H. H.). Dress and singe your goose,
put it into a deep dish, cover with boiling milk and leave over night.
'Next morning wash off the milk and put the fowl into cold water on
the fire ; when boiling hot, take it off and wash it in warm water and
dry with a cloth. This process takes out the oil. Fill the body with
a dressing of bread crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt, butter and
' chopped onions, if relished, and a little sage. Put the goose into
cold water and boil gently until tender. Serve with a sauce made
of giblets, liver, with pickles or sour jellies.
To DRESS A GREEN GOOSE. A goose, 3 oz. butter, pepper and
salt to taste. Geese are called green until they are about 4 months
old, and should be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed as
roasted goose, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and salt and
the butter to moisten it inside. Roast in a stove or before a clear
fire for 3-4 of an hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with
brown gravy) and when liked, gooseberry sauce. This dish should
T4O FOWLS.
be garnished -with water-cresses, or nasturtium flowers, leaves and
buds. This will do for 5 or 6 persons.
A GOOD STUFFING FOR DUCK OR GOOSE. Take 4 apples peeled
and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, 4 leaves of lemon thyme not
broken and 4 leaves of sweet myrtle, and boil them in a saucepan
with sufficient water to cover them ; when done, pulp them through
a sieve, removing the sage and thyme ; then add sufficient pulp of
mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry without sucking to
the hand ; add pepper and salt and stuff the fowl.
ROASTED GOOSE (Mrs. E.'s recipe). Wash it thoroughly with
salt and water. Prepare some Irish potatoes by boiling them nicely
and mashing smoothly with a tablespoonful of butter and lard ; chop
2 onions that have been parboiled and add them to the potato ;
then season highly with pepper and salt and a little powdered sage.
Roast it slowly at first, and baste it with butter or lard ; dredge it
with flour just before you bake it, to make it brown nicely. It
will answer to bake dressed in the same way, but will require a pint
of water in the oven or stewpan. When done, thicken the gravy
with i spoonful of flour rubbed smooth with water and season with
pepper and salt. Apple jelly is nice to eat with it.
BOILED TURKEY (Forcemeat as for Roasted Turkey). Hen tur-
keys are preferable for boiling, on account of their whiteness and
tenderness, and one of moderate size should be selected, as a large
one is not so suitable for this mode of cooking. They should not
be dressed until they have been killed 2 or 3 days or longer, it the
weather is cold, or they will neither look white nor will they be tender.
Pluck the bird, carefully draw and singe it with a piece of white
paper. Wash it inside and outside and wipe it thoroughly dry with
a cloth. Cut off the head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of
the thighs and cut off the legs at the first joint ; draw the legs quite
into the body, fill the breast with forcemeat, run a skewer through
the wing and the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing
on the opposite side ; break the breast-bone and make the bird
look as round and as compact as possible. Then put the turkey
into sufficient hot water to cover it, and let it come to a boil ; then
carefully remove all the scum. If this is attended to there is no
occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth ; but it should be well
covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for about i 1-2
to i 3-4 hours, according to the size, and serve with either white
celery, oysters or mushroom sauce, or parsley and butter, a little of
which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, tongue
or pickled pork should always accompany this dish ; and when oys-
ter sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster force-
meat. A small turkey i 1-2 and a large one i 3-4 hours. Poultry
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC. 1^1
for boiling should always be very fat. When the fowl or rabbit is
old, rub the inside with soda instead of salt as soon as it is killed ;
wash it off before cooking. A small portion of soda put into the water
will make meat or vegetables more tender, better, and cook in a much
shorter time. The flavor is greatly improved by it.
TURKEY FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER (Soyer). Into i gallon of
water put i teaspoonful of black pepper and 3 of salt. When the
water boils, put on your turkey stuffed to your taste, 2 Ibs. salt ba-
con cut in slices, 1-2 dozen onions, i Ib. of celery and i bunch of
sweet herbs. Boil slowly i 1-2 hours. Mix 3 oz. flour with 2 oz.
butter; add i pint of liquor from the pot and 1-2 pint of milk, take
out the onions and celery, chop fine and add to the mixture and boil
for 20 minutes ; then serve up your turkey and you have a delicious
dish.
TURKEY STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS. Trim free from
g r istle 10 oz of fillet of veal and i Ib. of fat bacon, season with i
teaspoonful of salt, sage, parsley and celery. While chopping mois-
ten with t gill of broth ; put the forcemeat in a mortar and pound
it for 10 minutes ; put it in a basin and add 40 chestnuts previously
slowly roasted and peeled ; draw and truss the turkey as in the
recipe for roasted turkey. When cutting off the neck leave as much
of the crop-skin as possible ; stuff the turkey with the forcemeat
and chestnuts ; roast it before an even, but moderate fire for i hour
and 40 minutes; take it off the spit, untie and put it on a dish.
Free the gravy from all grease, pour it under the turkey and serve.
ROASTED TURKEY WITH OYSTERS. Take the cooked turkey, cut
up very fine, then lay the oysters and turkey alternately, then put
between each layer a seasoning of cream and butter, pepper, salt,
a little nutmeg, chopped onion, and finish on the top with bread
crumbs sprinkled and bits of butter. Bake it, and when the oysters
are done, serve it.
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, &c.
To ROAST A HAUNCH OF VENISON. Choose a haunch of veni-
son with clear, bright and thick fat and the cleft of the hoof smooth
and close ; the greater the quantity of fat there is the better qual-
ity will the meat be, as many people object to venison when it
has been kept too long. You can ascertain its soundness by run-
ning a skewer into the meat near the bone ; when withdrawn its
sweetness can be judged of. With care and attention it will keep
two weeks, unless the weather is too mild. Keep it perfectly dry
by wiping it with clean cloths till not the least damp remains; sprin-
kle over ginger and pepper (powdered) as a preventive against the
142 GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC.
fly. When required for use wash it in warm water and dry it well
with a cloth ; butter a sheet of white paper, put it over the fat, lay a
coarse paste about 1-2 inch in thickness over this and then a sheet
or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmly on to the haunch with
twine and put the joint down to a strong, close fire, baste the veni-
son immediately to prevent the paper and string from burning; con-
tinue this operation without interruption the whole of the time it is
cooking about 20 minutes before it is done carefully remove the
paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour and baste well with but-
ter until frothed and of a nice pale brown color ; garnish the
knuckle bone with a frill of white paper and serve with a strong,
good and unflavored gravy in a tureen and currant jelly, or melt the
jelly with a little port wine, and serve that also in a tureen. As the
principal object in roasting venison is to preserve the fat, the above
is the best mode of doing so when expense is not objected to, but
in ordinary cases the paste may be dispensed with, and a double
paper placed over the roast instead. It will not require so long a
cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hot plates to
the table, as the vennon so soon freezes ; to be thoroughly injoyed
by epicures, it should be eaten on hot water plates. The neck
should be roasted in the same manner. To cook with the paste re-
quires from 4 to 5 hours, haunch of doe venison from 3 1-4 to 3 3-4
hours.
To BAKE FRESH VENISON HAM. Cut incisions lengthwise on
the top if the ham is not very fat, insert narrow strips of i.am or
pickled pork into these, press them below the surface and between
the shank bone and meat, run a sharp, narrow bladed knife and
insert the stuffing, tie it around well to prevent the stuffing from
falling out. Spread over the surface of the meat a thick coating
of butter, make a thin crust of coarse flour and water and lay
over it; bake in a pan, pour in a cupful of water; when 1-2 done
season with pepper and salt, take off the crust, bake it well and
dredge with flour and bake till ot a light brown ; carve as directed
and serve with the accompaniments of roasted haunch of veni-
son.
To BOIL A HAUNCH OF VENISON. Let it lie in salt, then boil
it in a floured cloth, allowing 1-4 hour for every Ib. For sauce
boil in milk and water and some cauliflowers pulled into sprigs with
white cabbage and turnips cut into dice and beet root sliced. First
lay a sprig of 'cauliflower and some of the turnips mashed with cream
and butter ; next the cabbage that has been beaten in a sauce pan
with a little butter and salt, then cauliflower, and so on until the dish
is full. Intermix the beet here and there to variagate the appear-
ance ; serve with melted butter. A neck of venison may be done in the
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC 143
same manner, and both will eat well the next day; hashed with gravy
and tomato or mushroom sauce or catsup.
To FRY VENISON. If it is the neck or breast of venison, bone
it, but if it be a shoulder cut off the meat in slices, make some gravy
with the bones, then fry the meat brown ; take it up and keep it hot
before the fire, put butter and flour in the pan and keep the whole
stirring till thick and brown, taking care that it does not burn. If
approved, stir in 1-2 pound of fine sugar, powdered, and put in the
gravy produced by the bones with some port wine ; give the whole
the consistency of cream, squeeze the juice of a lemon to these and
turn the venison in it, put it in a dish and pour the sauce over it.
To DUESS PLOVERS. Three plovers, butter, flour, toast bread.
In cleaning and trussing, choose those that are hard at the vent, as
that shows their fatness. There are three sorts of plover - the gray,
the green and the lopwing. They will keep good for some time, but
if very stale the feet will become dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for
anything but toasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed or made
into a ragout, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.
Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the bird with a damp
cloth, and do not draw them ; truss with the head under the wings,
put them down to a clear fire and lay slices of moistened toast in
the dripping pan to catch the trail ; keep them well basted, dredge
them lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, let them
be nicely basted with a feather, dish them in toasts, over which the
trail should be equally spread, pour around the toast a little good
gravy and send some to table in a tureen. Cook from 10 to 16 min-
utes. Sufficient for 2 persons.
To DRESS THE PTARMIGAN OR WHITE GROUSE. Two or 3 birds ;
butter, flour, fried bread crumbs ; the ptarmigan or white grouse,
when young and tender are exceedingly fine eating, and should
be kept as long as possible to be good. Draw, pluck and truss them
before a brisk fire, flour and butter them nicely and serve on but-
tered toasts with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce, when liked,
may be sent to the table with them, and fried bread crumbs substi-
tuted for the bread toast. Sufficient for i dish. Cook 1-2 hour.
IMITATION of BONED TURKEY. Three and one-half Ibs. of veal
chopped fine, 1-4 Ib. of fat salt pork, two eggs beaten, a little salt,
nutmeg and parsley; mix and make in a roll; bake 3 hours in a
moderate oven. To be eaten cold; a nice lunch.
To SEMI-STEW BIRDS. Prepare them as for broiling, heat the
gridiron and lay the birds flat upon it, the inside first; when 1-2
done and of a bright color (but they must not be scorched) take
them from the gridiron and lay them in a stew pan, pour over a
tumbler of hot water, season with pepper and salt; rub a teaspoon^
144 GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC.
ful of flour into a tablespoonful of butter; put this in slices over
the birds, cover the dish and set it on the stove. When tender serve
with tomato sauce.
N. B. In roasting or baking game of any kind put them all in
a paper bag greased inside and out with leaf drippings, butter or
lard, lay the bag in the stove pan without water and cook till done,
then take them out and brown them a little. The paper keeps the
flavor from escaping while cooking. The game can be stuffed be-
fore cooking.
To ROAST A FAWN. A fawn must not be kept like venison, but
dressed soon after it is killed. If it is not too large it is generally
trussed for roasting like a hare, filled with hare stuffing, rubbed over
with butter, larded with fat bacon and covered with buttered paper.
It must be spitted like a hare and basted continually. It will take
i 1-2 hour to roast it, but when 1-2 done the paper and larding must
be removed, the fawn dredged with flour and a little salt, and basted
till quUe ready. It may be served with good gravy and currant
jelly, or still better, with venison sauce. A young fawn is delicious
dressed in this way whole, but when older must be roasted in quar-
ters and cut like lamb. The hind quarter is the choice part, and
ought to be roasted with a covering of bacon and paper like the
whole fawn, and served with the same sauce.
To HASH FAWN. Put into a stew pan a pint of good gravy, 1-2
dozen mushrooms, a shallot and a spoonful of butter rolled in flour,
pepper and salt; simmer 1-2 hour, strain the gravy, have the meat
cut in neat slices and put in. Keep the stew pan at the side of the
fire that it may not boil, add a glass of port wine, a teaspobnful of
lemon juice and the same of sugar. Shake all together for 5 min-
utes, then serve.
Though the flesh of the goat is eaten in this country, that of the kid
is more delicate, and when carefully prepared and cooked, resembles
game, and is a useful resource for making out a dinner. If very
young it is best to dress it whole, and it should be soaked for twelve
hours in a marinade of a pint of vinegar, a pint of cold water, 1-2
pint of port wine, 3 ounces of salt and i ounce of brown sugar.
When taken out it should be hung up for a day or two, washing sev-
eral times with the marinade.
To ROAST KID. After the kid has been marinaded as directed,
either whole or in joints, it must be rubbed over with butter, if
whole, stuffed like a hare and roasted in nice buttered paper (a
light brown paper), as directed for the fawn, about the same time.
Any sauce for hare or venison may be served with it.
To HASH KID. Make a good gravy as for fawn and slice the
kid into it, add port wine, lemon, and sugar, and serve with French
beans or spinach.
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC. 145
KID A LA POULETTE. Instead of the marinade the kid must
be prepared by soaking in milk and water, and in which a spoon-
ful of salt has been dissolved for 6 hours. It must be larded and
1-2 roasted, and when cold cut a neat piece from the joint, leaving
the rest to hash. Put the pieces in a stew pan with a pint of good
veal stock, 2 ounces of butter rolled in flour, a shallot, a sprig of
parsley, 6 mushrooms, a teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of
salt, a blade of mace pounded. Stew all gently for i hour, then
take out the meat, strain the sauce, thicken with the yolk of an egg
beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and pour over the kid ; line
with sliced lemon.
ROAST TEAL. Teal, butter, a little flour. Choose fat, plump birds,
after the frost has set in, as they are then better flavored, truss them
before a brisk fire and keep them well basted. Serve with brown
gravy or onion gravy, water cresses and a cut of lemon. The re-
mains of the teal make excellent hash. Roast from 10 to 15 min-
utes ; 2 sufficient for a dish,
ROAST WIDGEON. Widgeons, a little flour and butter. These
are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, but not kept so long
before they are dressed ; put them down to a brisk fire, flour and
baste them continually with butter, and when browned and nicely
frothed send them to the table hot and quickly; serve with brown
gravy or orange gravy and a cut lemon, 1-4 hour, if liked well done,
20 minutes ; 2 sufficient for a dish.
ROAST LARKS. Larks, eggs and bread crumbs, and fresh butter.
These birds are esteemed a great delicacy and may either be toasted
or broiled. Pick and clean them well, when trussed brush them over
with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and roast before
a quick fire ; baste them continually with fresh butter and keep
sprinkling with bread crumbs until the birds are well covered. Dish
them in bread crumbs fried in butter and garnish the dish with slices
of lemon. Broiled larks are excellent; they should be cooked over
a clear fire, and would take about 10 or 15 minutes.
IF YOUNG PRAIRIE CHICKENS. Dress, singe them, cut them up,
dredge with corn meal or flour and fry them in nice sweet lard a nice
brown ; prepare a cream gravy if you like, and pour over them in
the dish ; serve hot. They are delicious.
IF the chicken is old take some slices of sweet fat bacon or pork,
a large pinch of powdered cloves, 2 or 3 onions cut up, pepper and
salt to taste, and stew until the meat leaves the bones, then thicken
with new milk or cream and a very little flour, and you have almost
a royal dish.
PRAIRIE CHICKEN STEAK. Cut in slices from the chicken, then
broil; butter, pepper and salt them and serve on hot plates as lecf-
146 GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC.
steak. They can also be fried in drippings, butter, lard, dipped in
egg and crumbs or in batter.
N. B. A stew can be made of the remainder of the chicken.
ROASTED TURKEY A LA CHIPOLATA. Prepare your turkey for
stuffing, then make a stuffing of veal and chestnuts, or pork sausage
meat may be used ; then prepare the chestnuts taking 4 dozen
and splitting them across fry them in a little butter or sweet oil in a
frying-pan, when the shells will come off without trouble ; then boil
them in good broth or soup until soft enough to mash ; save 2 dozen
to put in the sauce, and the others to put in the filling, then stuff the
fowl and lay in the baking-pan, then cover it with thin slices of ba-
con, secured by tying a string over to keep the bacon slices in place ;
then put it into an oiled paper bag. When nearly done, remove
from the paper bag and put it back and roast a nice brown. Dish
and garnish to suit the taste.
WASHING FOWLS OF ANY KIND. After dressing them wash them
in a little soda water. Others say it takes away the juices of the
flesh and spoils the flavor.
Tun KEY GRAVY (A Good Housekeeper). Heart, liver, gizzard
and neck cut up thin and dredged thickly with flour. Put in a sauce-
pan with a little salt, a few pepper corns, allspice and a little mace, out-
side skin not the husk of 3 onions, a lump of butter the size of a
large walnut ; stew or fry until well browned ; add boiling water till
of proper thickness, and let it cook all the morning on the corner of
the stove. After removing the turkey from the dripping-pan and
pouring off any grease, put the prepared gravy into the dripping-pan
and make as any other gravy. r
^ To ROAST A BONED TURKEY. Lay it in a deep baking-tin and
cover it with slices of fat salt pork ; put it into a moderately hot
oven and let it roast very slowly for 3 hours, with the door partly
open. If the oven be too hot, or the pork not fat enough to
keep the bird moist, it will brown. It is much better to stew it, as
in the preceding recipe, or roast in a paper bag greased with fresh
drippings. When done, remove the bag, and set to brown a few
minutes, and serve.
NOTE. A glaze or jelly for covering or garnishing the roasted
turkey may be made by putting the bones of the bird into a stew-
pan with all the herbs and vegetables mentioned for stewed turkey,
and adding i quart of water. .This, when gently stewed for 2
hours, strained and set aside to cool, will give at least i pint of
strong jelly. If the jelly be not solid when cold, it may be re-
duced in quantity by boiling it 1-2 an hour longer over a brisk
fire, taking care that it does not burn, and stirring frequently.
To STEW TURKEY. Take a fine turkey and bone it, and put into
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC. 147
the carcas a stuffing composed of large livers, mushrooms, smoked
bacon, all cut in small dice and mingled with salt, fine spices, chopped
parsley and oniony. Sew the turkey up, and take care to shape it
nicely ; then put a thin slice of bacon on the breast and wrap it in a
cloth. Stew it in a pot, but not too large a one, with good
broth, a glass of white wine, parsley, thyme, and celery. When
it is done, strain the liquor in which the turkey was stewed, into a
stew pan, after having taken off the pot ; reduce it to sauce,
adding a spoonful of caulis or oysters. Then unwrap your turkey,
take off the bacon, dry away the grease and serve with sauce.
WOODCOCK THE SPORTSMAN'S FASHION English style. Roast 2
of the birds rather underdone, catching their trails upon a large piece
of toasted bread ; when done cut each bird into quarters, which
place in a stew pan with the remainder of the trail cut small, a little
pepper, salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped shallot, the juice of
1-2 a lemon, 1-2 a gill of broth; let the whole simmer very gently
for a few minutes, dress the pieces of woodcock rather high upon
the toast, pour the sauce over and serve.
PARTRIDGES STEWED WITH CABBAGE. Have your birds nicely
trussed and cleaned, then run 5 or 6 slices of fat bacon about 1-2 as
thick as your hand and 1-2 as long, through the breast, so as not
to stick out, then roast them in a moderate oven, then divide a cab-
bage head in 4 pieces after washing it well in salt and water, then
boil it in simple water, drain it dry, season highly with salt and pep-
per, then some chopped onion, 1-2 pound of fat and lean bacon and
put them in a stew pan, then cover the whole with some good butter
and let simmer 3-4 of an hour till nearly dry before putting in the
partridges, keeping the whole hot, but not boiling, for about i hour ;
have ready 2 nicely broiled pork sausages, dress the cabbage, which
should be quite dry, upon your dish in a mound with the birds at the
top, but half buried in the mound, cut the bacon in halves, placing
a piece at each end with a sausage at each side, pour a cupful of
game sauce around and serve. It is very nice served with good plain
gravy.
PARTRIDGES TO BROIL. Divide them in two, dip them in melted
butter in- which a mite of corn starch has been stirred, cover thickly
with bread crumbs ; boil 1-4 hour. Young rabbits, hares and birds .
can be broiled in the same way.
To BOIL GROUSE. These must be boiled in plenty of water ;
1-2 or 3-4 hour will be sufficient to cook them. For sauce stew some
heads of celery cut very fine and thickened with cream and a small
piece of butter rolled in flour and seasoned with salt to your palate.
When your bird is done pour the sauce over it and garnish the dish
with thin slices of lemon.
148 GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC-
ANOTHER WAY. Truss the grouse the same way as turkey, stuff
the breast with veal stuffing, put it in hot water with 2 spoonfuls of
chopped and boiled mutton suet; serve celery or oyster sauce over
it. Snipes may be cooked in the same way.
To BOIL QUAILS. Doves, larks, prairie hens, pigeons and rob-
bins are all cooked alike, after they are picked, singed, the insides
taken out as clean as possible, and then washed in several waters.
Having cut off the pinions turn their legs under their wings, let them
boil slowly 1-4 hour and they will be sufficiently done. Dish them
up and pour over them good melted butter, lay around the dish a
little brocoli and serve them up with melted butter and parsley in
boats. They should be broiled by themselves, and may be eaten
with bacon, greens, spinach or asparagus.
To COOK PIGKONS (Petersburg, Va,) Mince cold veal and the
fat of bacon, mix them with the crumbs of bread soaked in milk and
well seasoned, with this forcemeat stuff the pigeons nicely, having
them fresh and well cleaned; bake slowly till done, basting frequently
with butter. Serve hot ; garnished with parsley.
N. B. Wild pigeons may be cooked in the same way.
NOTE Some housekeepers never use onions and sage together to
season stuffing.
To BROIL PIGEONS When the pigeons are trussed as for boiling
flatten them with a cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the
backs or breasts; season them with pepper and salt, a little bit of
butter and a teaspoonful of water, and tie them close at both ends;
so that when they are brought to the table they bring their sauce with
them. Egg and dredge them with grated bread or cracker dust ; if
you please mix with spices, parsley and thyme, then lay them on the
gridiron and turn them frequently ; if your fire is not very clear lay
them on a sheet of paper well buttered to keep them from getting
smoked. They are much better broiled whole ; when they are done
pour over them either stewed or pickled mushrooms, tomato, or
walnut catsup, or a squeeze of lemon. Garnish with fried bread
crumbs or sippets of bread.
ROAST PIG RONS. Pigeons, 2 spoonfuls of butter, pepper and salt
to taste. Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh ; if kept a lit-
tle the flavor goes off. They should be drawn as soon as killed.
Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs and
cut off the toes at the first joint previous to trussing ; they should
be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing; wipe
the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and salt and
put about 3-4 of a teaspoonful of butter into the body of each.
This makes them moist. Put them down to a bright fire and
baste them well the whole time they are cooking. In 20 or 30
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC. 149
minutes they will be done ; garnish with fried parsley ; bread sauce
and gravy, the same as for roast fowl, are an exceedingly nice accom-
paniment to roast pigeon, and also egg sauce ; serve in a tureen of
parsley and butter.
To STEW PIGEONS. See that they are quite fresh and care-
fully cleaned, drawn and washed; then soak them 1-2 hour. In
the meantime cut a hard white cabbage in slices into water, drain it,
and then boil it in milk and water; drain it again, and lay some of
it at the bottom of the stew pan, put the pigeons upon it, but first
season them well with pepper and salt and cover them with the re-
mainder of the cabbage, add a little broth and stew gently till the
pigeons are tender, then put among them 2 or 3 spoonfuls of cream
and a piece of butter and flour for thickening. After a boil or two
serve the birds in the middle of the dish and the cabbage placed
around them.
A GOOD WAY TO CATCH WOOD PIGEONS. Take corn or horse
beans with 3 or 4 holes punched in them with an iron bodkin, then
boil the same in gin ; many will be so drunk they cannot fly up ; oth-
ers will perch in the adjacent trees; watch them, and you will see
them tumble down.
WOODCOCKS A LA LUCULLUS. Roast the birds plainly, catching
the trails upon slices of toast, upon which, when done, dress
them on a dish ; have ready a little fresh melted butter, with which
mix the yolk of an egg and a little cream ; pour this over the wood-
cocks, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, salamander of a light
brown color and serve with a little gravy around.
ROASTED OR BAKKD RABBIT. Have the same stuffing as for veal
and turkey. Skin, empty, and thoroughly wash the rabbit, wipe it
dry, line the inside with the forcemeat as for turkey, &c., mince and
add the liver, sew the stuffing inside, skewer back the head be-
tween the shoulders, cut off the fore joints of the shoulders and legs,
bring them close to the body and secure them by means of a skewer.
Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper and put down to a clear fire,
keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it is done remove the
paper" flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice brown color, take
out the skewers and serve with brown gravy and red currant jelly.
To bake the rabbit proceed in the manner as above in a good
oven. It will take the same time as roasting, young rabbit 35 min-
utes, a large one 3-4 hour. Sufficient for 4 persons.
ROAST HARK. Choose a young hare, which may be known by
its smooth and sharp claws and by the cleft in the lip not being much
spread. To be eaten in perfection it must hang for some time, and
if properly taken care of it may be kept for several days. It is bet-
ter to hang without being paunched; but should it be previously
I5O GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC.
emptied wipe the inside every day and sprinkle over it a little pep-
per and ginger to prevent the musty taste, which long keeping in the
damp occasions, and which also affects the stuffing. After it is skin-
ned wash it well and soak for an hour in warm water to draw out
the blood ; if old, let it lie in vinegar for a short time, but wash it
well afterwards in several waters. Make a stuffing as for veal and
.turkey. Wipe the hare dry, fill it up with the stuffing and sew it up,
bring the hind and fore legs close to the body, towards the head, run
a skewer through each, fix the head between the shoulders by means
of another skewer, and be careful to leave the ears on, put a string
round the body from skewer to skewer and tie it above the back.
The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is first
laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the inside
is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time and afterwards with
butter ; and particular attention must be paid to basting, so as to pre-
serve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost
roasted enough flour the hare and baste well with butter ; when nicely
frothed dish it, remove the skewers and send it to table with a little
gravy in the dish and a tureen of the same. Red currant jelly must
not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast
hare. For economy good beef drippings may be substituted for the
milk and butter to baste with but the basting, as we have before
stated, must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good
it may be parboiled, minced and mixed with the stuffing, but should
not be used unless quite fresh. A middling-sized hare cooks i 1-2
hours ; a large hare from i 1-2 to 2 hours.
N. B. In roasting large and small birds put them in a buttered
paper bag, all together in a stew pan and roast them ; the buttered
paper prevents the steam from escaping, and they are much better
by it when done. Take them out, season and serve to taste.
FRENCH RABBIT, How TO COOK (Ma'm V.) Take a rabbit. and
skin it, commencing at the head ; with a damp cloth wipe the rabbit
clean, do not wash it ; then simmer in a pan a piece of butter the
size of an egg, then cut the rabbit up and lay in the pan containing
the hot butter, adding some salt and a pinch of beaten pepper, a few
whole cloves, allspice and peppers, some thyme and parsley, all to
taste. When ready to serve, after laying the rabbit on a hot dish,
stir by degrees a little flour into the gravy to thicken it, adding 1-2 pint
of claret wine. *
BOILED RABBIT. For boiling choose rabbits with smooth and
sharp claws, as that denotes they are young. Should these be blunt
and rugged, the ears long and rough, the animal is old. After empty-
ing and skinning it wash it well in cold water and let it soak for
about 1-4 hour in warm water, to draw out the blood. Bring the
GAME, EDIBLE BIRDS, ETC. 15!
head around to the side and fasten it there by means of a skewer
run through that and the body. Put the rabbit into sufficient hot
water to cover it, let it boil gently till tender, which will be in from
1-2 to 3-4 hour, according to its size and age. Dish it and smother
it either with onions, liver or mushrooms, sauce or parsley and but-
ter. The former is, however, generally preferred to any of the last-
named sauces. When liver sauce is preferred the liver should be
boiled for a few minutes and minced finely or rubbed through a sieve
before it is added to the sauce. A young rabbit or hare should cook
1-2 hour, a larger one 3-4 hour, an old one i hour or longer; squir-
rels may be cooked in the same way.
STEWED RABBIT (Pacific Slope.) Skin the rabbit, then wash and
soak thoroughly, then with a clean cloth wipe it as dry as possible,
cut it up and roll the pieces in flour and slightly brown it in 1-4 Ib.
of sweet butter, adding some lean bits of ham, then gradually add 3
cups of gravy and stew the meat very gently for nearly 2 hours, or
less time ; add salt to taste and half the rind of lemon cut very thin.
Mix an even tablespoonful of rice flour with 2 tablespoonfuls of mush-
room catsup, a large pinch of powdered mace and a small pinch of
cayenne. Stir well, pour in the stew, cook 10 minutes, then serve
hot.
To BROIL RABBIT OR HARE. Season them first and broil them
on a gridiron, rub them with cold butter and serve them hot.
The other pieces warmed with gravy and a little stuffing may be
sent up separately ; or the hare may be split open, seasoned with
pepper and salt and broiled on the griddle, the body slit and
gashed neatly across and lengthwise and basted with cider vine-
gar; butter, pepper and salt frequently.
SQUIRRKL STEW. After the squirrels are properly cleaned and
lain in salt and water for a time, then cut up and boil 2 hours
for young squirrels and 3 hours for old ones in just enough water
to cover them. Never season them till done tender, and then you
will add salt and cream or nice fresh butter to your judgment.
Make a thickening of a tablespoonful of flour stirred in 1-2 cup
of milk or water, then add this while the pot is boiling, making
a nice gravy. Pour the whole over slices of bread or split butter
crackers, or biscuit, and serve.
NOTE As the strong flavor comes from the fat this should be cut
away before cooking.
FRIED SQUIRREL (Mrs. Baringer.) Cut them up and parboil in
water with a little salt, if old. If young, this is not needed; sea-
son with pepper and salt and dip each piece in beaten yolk of egg
and grated cracker, and fry in hot lard of a nice brown.
BROILED SQUIRREL. Parboil the squirrel whole for a few minutes,
152 FRICASSEES.
grease the broiler or gridiron, put it on and turn it often over a.clear
fire, season with drawn or melted butter, peeper, salt, and moisten
the squirrels with it.
SQUIRREL PIE. Parboil the squirrel in salt and water, line a bak-
ing dish with nice pastry, cut the squirrels in pieces in the pan with
a slice of bacon and 2 hard boiled eggs ; fill the pan with cream
and season with black pepper and cover it with a crust and bake.
FRICASSEES.
To FRICASSEE CHICKENS. Boil 1-4 hour in a small quantity of
water ; let them cool ; cut up and put to simmer in a little gravy
made of the liquor they are boiled in and a bit of veal or mutton,
onion, mace and lemon peel, some white pepper, parsley and thyme.
When quite tender, keep them hot while you thicken the sauce in
the following manner: Strain it off and put it back into the sauce-
pan with a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, and a bit of flour and
butter; give it one boil, and when you are going to serve it, beat up
the yolk of an egg, add 1-2 pint of cream, and stir them over the
fire, but do not let it boil. It is often done without the egg. The
gravy may be made (without any other meat) of the necks, feet,
small wing-bones, gizzards and livers, which are called the trimmings
of the fowls.
To FRICASSEE CHICKENS WHITE. Cut up each chicken into eight
pieces, as in carving them at table. Wash, dry, flatten and season
them with mixed spices, using only white pepper. Dip the pieces
in egg, and brown them lightly in fresh butter. Take a pint of
clear veal or mutton gravy, and put to it a roll of lemon peel, 2
onions, 3 blades of mace, a little parsley and lemon thyme. Stew
the browned chicken in this very slowly for 1-2 hour, keeping
the stew-pan covered. Strain the sauce and thicken it with but-
ter rolled in flour, salt and a rasp of nutmeg. When ready to
be served, add 1-4 pint of cream, the yolk of i or 2 eggs well
beaten. Do not have it too hot, but mix this very carefully, lest
it curdle, and be sure it does not boil. A glass of white wine
and a squeeze of lemon may be put to the fricassee.
FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN A LA ST. LAMBERT. Prepare and cut two
chickens as directed for fricassee of chicken. Steep the pieces in
cold water for 1-2 hour; drain and put them in a sauce-pan with
some gravy, i carrot, i onion and a bunch of parsley, and drain
the pieces of chicken when they are done. Strain the gravy
or broth through a broth-napkin; reduce it to 1-2; add i 1-2
pint of nice sauce to it, and reduce both together until the sauce
coats the spoon. Thicken it with egg and strain through a tam-
FRICASSEES. 153
my-cloth into a pan. Wipe and trim the pieces of chicken, put
them in a stew-pan, pour in enough sauce to cover them, and
warm them without boiling ; dress them on a dish, pour over some
of the sauce out of the pan, garnish round with small portions of
carrots cut to an olive shape, butter, onions previously boiled in white
broth, and asparagus, peas, and serve with the remainder of the
sauce in a boat.
To FRICASSEE CHICKENS. Prepare your chickens as for frying,
then let them remain i hour in cold water in a cool place; change
the water, then add some salt and let them remain in this i hour.
Put them into a stew-pan with just enough water to cover them, some
salt, pepper and a cup of cream or milk. Mix a large spoonful of
butter and flour together, and add to the stew or fricassee, and cook
all together for i hour. Before serving, add some minced parsley or
celery and 2 well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly.
CHICKEN FRICASSEED {Mrs. T. B. S.). For a two-o'clock dinner.
At 12 o'clock kill, clean and cut up 2 chickens, then into a skillet put
2 heaped tablespoonfuls of lard, then stir into it gradually 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, until of a nice brown; ir.to the lard put small
onions chopped. Lay in the chicken and fry of a good brown.
Pour in 3 pints of boiling water. Flavor with minced parsley, black
pepper and 2 cloves. Cover it up and boil until reduced one-half;
then in a small bowl put the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, 2 table-
spoonfuls each of vinegar and wine, a little Worcester sauce, and
stir well together. Then into the mixture stir 4 spoonfuls of hot
gravy, then pour into the gravy and stir it over the fire for a moment,
and pour it over the chicken, which has been'laid in a hot dish, and
serve at once.
FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS THICKENED WITH MILK OF ALMONDS.
Cut up 2 chickens as directed for fricassee of chickens a la St. Lam-
bert. Blanch, drain, wipe and trim the pieces ; put them in a stew-
pan with i quart of nice sauce and i pint of chicken broth. When
the chicken is done, pour the liquor out of the stew-pan into an-
other ; skim off the fat and reduce the sauce until it coats the spoon ;
then strain it on the pieces of chicken in the stew-pan ; boil up to-
gether and thicken the sauce with some milk of almonds, prepared
as follows : First blanch and peel 2 oz. of sweet almonds, wash and
pound them in a mortar, moistening them with 1-2 pint of milk;
when well pounded, press them through a broth-napkin into a basin.
Take the fricassee off the fire, let it cool for a minute and pour the
mik of almonds with one hand, while tossing the contents of a stew-
pan with the other, so as to mix and thicken the sauce. Dress the
fricassee on a dish and serve.
FRICASSEED TURKEY. Cut up a small, young turkey and rinse it
154 FRICASSEES.
in cold water ; put it in a stew-pan with water to cover it ; cover the
stew-pan and set it over a gentle fire ; remove the froth as it rises ;
when tender add salt to taste, a heaped spoonful of pepper, 4 oz.
sweet butter and a tablespoonful of flour ; stir well with a s'poon.
Scald some parsley, chop it small, put it into the turkey stew and
cover it closely. Simmer for 20 minutes. Serve hot for breakfast
with rice, hominy or potatoes.
To FRICASSEE PIGEONS. Cut them in pieces and fry brown ; lay
them in a stew-pan with gravy and let them remain an hour, at the end
of which time put in a slice of lemon, a spoonful of mushroom cat-
sup and a little browning. Let them stew 5 minutes longer, take
them up, thicken the gravy with butter and flour and strain over the
birds. Lay forcemeat balls around the dish and garnish with pickles.
To FRICASSEE EGGS. Boil your eggs 10 minutes, or until entirely
hard. Take them up and drop them into a vessel of cold water
until cold enough to remove the shells smoothly. Beat up one or
more raw eggs, according to what is required. Roll the hard-boiled
eggs in the beaten egg ; then in fine bread crumbs and let them dry,
turning them. Fry in hot lard or oil. Use as an accompaniment roasted
or baked meat, with a rich gravy. They may be cut in two, if de-
sired ; take out the yolk and fill each end with nice stuffing ; unite
them or not, as preferred ; roll in raw beaten eggs, then in powdered
bread crumbs, and fry.
To FRICASSEE RABBITS WHITE. To fricassee rabbits white, you
must cut them up as for eating, and then put them into a stew-pan
with a pint of veal gravy, a little beaten mace, a slice of lemon, a
teaspoonful of lemon juice, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Let
them stew over a gentle fire until done enough ; then take them out
and lay them in your dish. Thicken the gravy with butter and flour ;
then strain it and add the yolks of 2 eggs, mixed with a gill of thick
cream and a little grated nutmeg, stir these well together, and when
it begins to simmer pour it quite hot over your rabbits, and serve
them hot.
To FRICASSEE RABBITS BROWN. Cut them into pieces as before
directed and fry them in butter of a light brown ; then put them in
a stew-pan with a pint of water, a slice of lemon, a large spoonful
of lemon juice, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Stew them over
a slow fire until enough done ; then thicken your gravy with butter
and flour, and strain it. Dish up your rabbits and pour your gravy
over them. Garnish with sliced lemon.
FRICASSEED LAMB'S FRIRS. Skin and wash them, dry and flour
them, and fry of a beautiful brown in fresh hog's lard ; lay them on a
sieve before the fire until you have made the following sauce :
Thicken almost 1-2 pint of veal gravy with a bit of flour and
FRICASSEES. 155
butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a large spoonful of
mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, a grate of nut-
meg and the yolk of an egg beaten well in 2 large spoonfuls of
thick cream. Put this over the fire and stir it well until it is hot
and looks white ; but do not let it boil, or it will curdle ; then
put in the fry and shake it about near the fire for a moment or
two. Serve in a very hot covered dish. Those of hogs may be
cooked in the same way, or simply slightly salted and fried in
new hog's lard.
AN EXCELLENT FRENCH FRICASSEE OF BEANS so AS TO RESEMBLE
THE TASTE OF MEAT. Take Lima, butter or sugar beans, and alter
boiling them sufficiently to eat, brown some butter, taking ca-re to
season well with salt, in an iron bake-pan or spider previously warmed
or heated. Put into it your beans, after letting them drain for a few
minutes, and fry them until they begin to turn brown, then mix with
the'm a few onions finely chopped, and continue the frying for a short
time longer, adding some parsley. When the beans appear to be
nearly done, add a little water to them, some salt, black pepper to
taste, and dredge well with flour. When done, stir into them the
yolk of an egg beaten with a spoonful of water and add a small
portion of vinegar. A spoonful of catsup should be put in with the
flour.
FRICASSEE OF PARSNIPS. Boil in milk until they are soft ; then cut
them lengthwise into bits 2 or 3 inches long, and simmer in a white
sauce made of 2 spoonfnls of broth, a bit of mace, 1-2 cupful of
cream, a bit of butter and some flour, pepper and salt.
To FRICASSEE SALMON. Cut a piece of salmon into small slices,
mince some parsley and thyme, season the fish with salt, mace, cloves,
ginger, nutmeg powdered small and well mixed. Put into a pan
some clarified butter or lard ; make it very hot, then lay in the salmon
and fry it quickly, taking care that it does not burn. When 3-4
done, pour off the fat and supply its place with white wine, oys-
ters and their liquor, a large onion, some minced thyme and a little
nutmeg, to which add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten up with the liquor.
Dish the fricassee with sippets, pour the sauce thereon and garnish
with oysters.
To FRICASSEE EELS. Skin 3 or 4 large eels, notch them from the
head to the tail, cut each eel into 4 or 5 pieces and lay them in cleat
water for 1-2 an hour; dry them in a cloth and put them into the
pan with fresh butter, i or 2 onions and some chopped parsley. Set
the pan on the fire and shake it for a few minutes, then put in a pint
of white wine and the same quantity of gravy, with pepper, salt and
a blade of mace. Stew the whole together 1-2 an hour, and then
add the yolks of 4 or 5 eggs, some grated nutmeg and chopped
156 VEGETABLES.
parsley. Stir these well together and let them simmer 4 or 5 min-
utes, after which put in the juice of an orange or lemon. Garnish
with lemon in slices.
To FRICASSEE LOBSTERS. When skinned and cleaned cut off the
heads of the fish and dry them on a cloth. Separate the flesh from
the bones and the fins, cut it first lengthwise and then across, so that
each fish may be divided into 8 parts ; put the heads and bones in a
pan with a pint of water, sage, parsley and thyme, an onion shreded,
whole pepper, 2 or 3 blades of mace, a piece of lemon peel, a little
salt and a crust of bread. Cover the whole closely and let it boil
until reduced to 1-2 ; strain through a sieve and put the liquor into
a stew-pan with the fish, adding 1-2 pint of white wine, some chopped
parsley, a few mushrooms cut small, grated nutmeg and a piece of
butter rolled in flour. Keep the pan shaking over a slow fire until
the fish are done, then serve them up with the gravy and garnish
with lemon.
To FRICASSEE OYSTERS. Put into the pan a slice of ham, a bunch
of parsley, thyme and an onion, with cloves; stew these over a
gentle fire for a few minutes and add thereto a little flour, some good
butter and a piece of lemon peel ; then put in the oysters and let
the whole simmer until thoroughly hot. Thicken with the yolks of
2 eggs, a little cream and a piece of butter; but take out the ham,
herbs, onion and peel, adding, instead of the last, some of the juice,
Shake the pan well, and when it simmers pour the whole into the
dish.
VEGETABLES.
ASPARAGUS (To be Served with Entrees). For 8 people, take
100 sticks of asparagus, scrape the white part of the stem from the
head downward ; cut off so much of the base as shall leave each
stick the same length and throw them as fast as they are done into
cold water. When all are prepared tie them in bundles of 20, diop
them into 1-2 gallon of fast boiling water, in which i heaped table-
spoonful of salt has been dissolved. In about 10 minutes they will
be done, if small. They must be watched until the moment they
are tender. They should then be taken out of the water at once,
drained dry and laid upon hot buttered toast in a round or oval dish
and the stems outward. The toast should be dipped for a moment
into the asparagus water. No sauce should be served with the
asparagus, as that would interfere with the flavor of those in the
entrees.
ASPARAGUS ROLL (Mrs. N.'s) Boil the asparagus in salt and
water, as for dinner ; when tender cut up all the eatable part and
VEGETABLES. 157
warm it again in sweet milk that is thickened with butter rubbed in
flour, the yolks of well beaten raw eggs, a rasp or two of nutmeg, a
small pinch of mace, being governed by the quantity of asparagus.
Then, having the top crust taken off of some rolls, and the crumbs
scooped out, fill up the hollow with the boiling asparagus mixture,
which should not be very moist. Place the upper crust on and serve
at once very hot.
BOILED ASPARAGUS. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow i heaped
tablespoonful of salt. In order to have the asparagus white, it should
be cut before sunrise, as the action of the sun turns it green, and it
should be put in a cool, damp place, and then dressed as soon as
practicable. Like all vegetables, it cannot be cooked too fresh ;
then scrape the outer skin off beginning at the head, and throw them
into cold water, then tie them in bundles of about 20 in each, keep
the heads all one way, then, with a sharp knife cut the stalks evenly
and put them into boiling water with the above proportion of salt.
Keep them boiling quickly until tender, with the saucepan uncov-
ered. When the asparagus is done, dish it upon toast, which should
be dipped in the water in which the asparagus has been boiled, then
turn the white ends toward the middle each way, pour over them
melted butter and pepper, 15 to 18 minutes from the time the water
boils.
ASPARAGUS AND BEANS. Cut the tender parts of the asparagus
into 1-4 inch lengths, boil in an equal quantity of water, adding about
an equal amount of well-cooked Linja beans. Cook until the aspar-
agus is tender, season with pepper, salt, butter or cream, and serve
hot. Instead of the beans the asparagus may be thickened with
flour and cream, or with cracker crumbs and milk.
ASPARAGUS OMELET. Boil the required quantity of asparagus and
cut the tops and tender part into 1-2 inch lengths, season to taste
with salt and pepper, and put aside on the stove to keep warm while
you make your omelet. Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs to-
gether, with a teaspoonful of milk for each egg, a salt spoonful of
salt and a pinch of white pepper; brown 2 tablespoonfuls of
sweet butter in a frying-pan, pour your eggs in, and as soon as
it begins to set at the edges turn them up and shake your pan
to keep the omelet from sticking. It will be sufficiently cooked
in five minutes ; put your asparagus in, turn your omelet over it
as you would a turn-over pie, and serve at once on a hot dish.
BOILED ARTICHOKES. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow one
heaped tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda as large as a 25-
cent piece. Wash the archichokes well in several waters, and see
that no insects remain in them, and trim away the leaves at the
bottom, cut off the stems and put them into boiling water, to
158 VEGETABLES.
which has been added salt, and soda in the above proportion.
Keep the sauce-pan covered and let them boil quickly until ten-
der, ascertain when they are done by pushing a fork into them, or
by trying if the leaves can be easily removed. Take them out,
let them drain for a minute or two and serve on a napkin with
a little pepper, salt and melted* butter. This vegetable, unlike
any other, is considered better for being gathered two or three
days ; but they must be soaked and washed previous to dressing
20 to 25 minutes after the water boils.
ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN WAY. Four or five artichokes, salt and
butter; about; 1-2 pint of gravy. Trim and cut the archichokes in
quarters, boil them until tender in water mixed with a little salt
and butter. When done, drain them well, and lay them all around
the dish with the leaves outside. Have ready some good gravy
highly flavored with mushrooms ; reduce it until quite thick and
pour it around the artichokes and serve. Twenty to twenty-five
minutes to boil the archichokes.
FRIED ARTICHOKES. Five or six artichokes, salt and water ;
for the batter 1-2 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of i egg and
milk. Trim and boil the artichokes and rub them over with
lemon juice to keep them white. When they are quite tender,
take them up remove the chokes and divide the bottoms ;
dip each piece into the batter, fry them in hot lard or drippings and
garnish with crisp parsley or the leaves, flowers and buds of nas-
turtium. Serve with plain melted butter ; 20 minutes to boil, 5 to
7 minutes to fry the artichokes.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES May be sliced and boiled like turnips,
or washed and cooked in any way that Irish potatoes are, but they
require longer cooking and are deemed excellent when boiled or
dressed as a salad when mashed and seasoned with pepper, salt
and butter or cream. They may be cut in the shape of a pear ;
cut off a piece at the bottom of each, that they may stand up-
right in the dish, and pour over them some nice sauce. Twenty
minutes to boil. They are also good roasted as potatoes.
STEWKD CARROTS. Seven or 8 large carrots, i teaspoonful broth,
pepper and salt to taste, 1-2 teaspoonful cream or milk, thickening
of butter and flour. Scrape the carrots nicely ; half-boil, and slice
them into a stew-pan, add the broth, pepper, salt and cream and
simmer until tender and be careful that the carrots be not broken.
A few minutes before serving mix a little flour with about i oz. of
butter, and thicken the gravy with this ; let it just boil up, and then
serve. Three-quarters of an hour to parboil the carrots ; 20 min-
utes to cook them after they are boiled.
To DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY. Eight large car-
VEGETABLES. 159
rots, 3 oz. butter, salt to taste, a very little grated nutmeg, i table-
spoontul finely-minced parsley, i dessert-spoonful minced onion,
rather more than i pint of weak stock or broth, and i tablespoonful
flour. Wash and scrape the carrots and cut them into rings about
1-2 an inch in thickness. Put the butter in a stew-pan; when it is
melted lay in the carrots with salt, nutmeg, parsley and onions in the
above proportions. Toss the stew-pan over the fire for a few min-
utes, and when the carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour
in the stock and simmer until they are nearly tender. Then put into
another stewpan a small piece of butter, dredge in about a tea-
spoonful of flour, stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown
color add the liquor that the carrots have been boiling in ; let this
just boil up, pour it over the carrots in the other stew-pan and let
them finish simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot. This
vegetable, dressed as above, is a favorite accompaniment of roasted
pork, sausages, beef, etc. Three-quarters of an hour to stew.
BOILED CARROTS. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow i heaped
tablespoonful of salt. Cut off the green tops and wash and scrape
the carrots, and should there be any black specks, remove them. If
large, cut them in halves, divide them lengthwise into 4 pieces and
put them in boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Let them
boil until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into
them ; dish and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable
accompaniment to boiled beef. When thus served it is usually boiled
with the beef. A few carrots are placed around the dish, as a gar-
nish, and the remainder sent to table in a vegetable dish. Young
carrots do not require so much boiling, nor should they be divided.
These are a nice addition to stewed veal, etc. Large carrots, i 3-4
to 2 1-4 hours; young ones, 1-2 hour.
SLICED CARROTS. Five or six large carrots, a large lump of sugar,
i pint of weak stock, 3 oz. fresh butter, and salt to taste. Scrape
and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equal size, and boil
them in salt and water until half-done, drain them well, put them in
a stew-pan with sage and stock, and let them boil over a" brisk fire.
When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butler and a seasoning of
salt ; -shake the stew-pan about well, and when the butter is well-
mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the
dish when sent to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots. Al-
together, 3-4 of an hour. Always in season.
FRIED PARSNIPS AND BANANAS. Boil your parsnips and let them
get cold, then slice and flour them slightly and they will resemble in
flavor and appearance fried bananas.
To COOK EGG PLANT. After cutting the slices 1-2 inch thick, lay
them one upon the other in salt water to extract the bitter principle,
and also a part of the juice. Then fry in the usual way.
l6o VEGETABLES.
EGG PLANT BAKED. Peel and parboil them, then squeeze them
between two plates to dry them ; then season with a little onion,
butter, pepper and salt. Put the mixture in a baking-dish, grate
over some bread crumbs and bake a nice brown.
STUFFED EGG PLANT. Cut off the stem-end of the plant and scoop
out the inside with the handle of a spoon. Parboil the shell for 5
minutes in water a little salted ; take it out, and at once plunge it
into cold water ; then stew the flesh of the plant with pepper, salt
and a little finely chopped onion, until done. Add to the stew, with
butter to season it, i or more well-beaten eggs, (i heaped tea-
spoonful, and i egg will be sufficient for i plant) ; mix well and
stew until dry; put in 1-2 as ,much bread crumbs as egg plant;
fill the plant shell with this ; a little minced veal, ham, tongue or
poultry may be added to the forcemeat by way of improvement ;
then tie on the piece which was cut off; put the stuffed eggs to bake
in a dish, the bottom covered with slices of sweet bacon, and bake
i hour. Serve on a flat dish. Remove the string and top-piece.
The egg plant is often cut in two lengthwise, the contents removed
and stewed as above, the 1-2 rind parboiled in salt and water until
tender, then filled with a rich stuffing, a coating of egg poured over
the open side, and bread crumbs sprinkled over ; put in a dish with
slices of cold ham and bake until tender ; either way is good.
EGG PLANTS SIUFFED. The pulp taken carefully out, then fill with
savory meats. Tie a string around it and boil in salt and water.
You may stuff them with any forcemeat you like.
EGG PLANT FRIED. Boil the eggplant, and when cold slice, flour,
and fry in butter or lard.
BANANAS are fried in the same way, but they are not previously
cooked.
BOILED MUSHROOMS. Mushroom flaps, pepper and salt to taste,
butter and lemon juice. Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with
a piece of flannel and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk and
peel the tops ; boil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and
arrange them in a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on
each mushroom ; season with pepper and salt and squeeze over them
a lew drops of lemon juice. Place the dish before the fire, and when
the butter is melted, serve very hot and quickly. Moderate-sized
flaps are better suited to this mode of cooking than the buttons ; the
latter are better in stews. Ten minutes to cook medium-sized mush-
rooms.
BAKED MUSHROOMS. 16 or 20 mushroom flaps, butter, and pep-
per to taste. For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are bet-
ter than buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of
the stalks, peel the top and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a
VEGETABLES. l6l
piece of flannel and a little fine salt. Put them in a tin baking-dish
with a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom ; sprinkle
over a little pepper and bake for 20 minutes or longer, should the
mushrooms be very large. Have ready a very hot dish, and pile the
mushrooms high in the center, pour the gravy around and send them
to table quickly with very hot plates. Twenty minutes ; large mush-
rooms 1-2 hour. Mushrooms are difficult of digestion, and by no
means nourishing. The best are those found in pasture grounds.
Gardeners raise them in beds of old manure. The most of them
are of suspicious qualities.
STEWED MUSHROOMS. One pint of mushroom buttons, i oz. fresh
butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon juice, i teaspoonful of
flour, cream or milk, and 1-4 teaspoonful grated nutmeg.
How TO COOK CELERY. Trim the roots and cut to about 6
inches, three heads of celery. Wash them carefully, tie them to-
gether with a string, put them into a sauce-pan with an onion, a
blade of mace, some whole pepper, salt, and enough boiling wa-
ter to cover them. Let them boil until tender, then drain them,
remove the string and serve hot with white sauce over them.
CELERY SUCKS WITH CREAM. Previous to cooking them, they
must be washed well and properly trimmed ; this done, and the sterns
cut to the requisite length, then boil in plenty water for 10 minutes,
then put them in some liquor in which bacon has been boiled, salt
them, then take them up and moisten them with the liquor from
which the fat has been skimmed ; then pour over some wine or the
juice of a lemon, cover them well, trim and dish them up, mash
them in caramel sauce, reduced with cream. Celery stewed and
covered simply with a little gravy and brown sauce is very nice.
RADISHES should be gathered early in the morning ; wash them
well and keep them in ice-cold water until time to serve them ; then
break off the long tap root, and cut off all the top except an inch or
two ; put them upon a salad bowl with lettuces, cresses, etc., or in
glass stands, or on small dishes. The crimson ones are highly orna-
mental. Radishes are more digestible, if grated and seasoned with
pepper and salt ; used as a salad, and are often served raw. There
are many varieties of the radish, and possess nearly the same prop-
erties of the turnip.
HORSE RADISH. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast
beef, mutton, veal, fowl, roast pork or any kind of meat cooked in
any way, and also with fish and for garnishing. Gather the horse-
radish, wash it well and let it remain in cold water for i hour before
using it, then with a sharp knife scrape it into shreds, beginning with
the upper part or large end of the root ; add a little salt, and ar-
range it in a small dish, and the remainder for garnishing the joint.
162 VEGETABLES.
It should be placed in tufts around the border of the dish, with one
or two bunches on the meat. The horse-radish is highly stimulat-
ing and exciting to the stomach, and is recommended in chronic
rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints, diseases of the kidneys
(made into tea with cold water), and in cases of enfeebled digestion.
It is used principally as a condiment to promote appetite and excite
the digestive organs, and is highly anti-scorbutic.
BOILED CABBAGE. Choose the dark green, crumpled cabbage,
known as the Savoy. Take off the coarse outer leaves ; cut each
cabbage in 4 ; remove a portion of the stalk ; wash them in warm
salt and water, then throw them into cold salt and water for i hour.
For 4 large cabbages or S small ones, have ready a vessel with i 1-2
gallons of part boiling water, in which a teaspoonful of common
baking soda has been dissolved. Press the cabbage down in the
water ; let it boil slowly for about one hour. When quite tender
take it up and lay it in a colander to drain. Press every drop of
water out of the cabbage, chop it finely with a knife, sprinkle it with
pepper each time you turn it; add to it i oz. butter, i tablespoonful
lemon juice ; put it into a clean sauce-pan and stir it over the fire
while it is quite hot again ; then put it into a vegetable dish, and
press it gently until it is smooth ; score it a little on the top with a
knife and serve at once.
MEPHISTOPHELEAN TOMATOES. Just to think of it ! One pint of
tomatoes peeled, i hard-boiled egg, the yolk only, 2 large spoon-
fuls of melted butter, i 1-2 spoonfuls of vinegar, i raw egg whip-
ped very light; rub in the butter and seasoning, beat till perfectly
smooth, i teaspoonful each of sugar, salt and pepper; pound the
boiled yolk, rub that in and beat again, stir in the vinegar boil-
ing hot, then raw egg beaten, keep it hot (the vessel set in boil-
ing water), while you prepare your tomatoes, cut in thin slices
and broil over a clear fire, lay on a chafing dish and pour the
hot sauce over them and serve.
BAKED TOMATOES. Eight or ten tomatoes, pepper and salt, 2
spoonfuls of butter, bread crumbs. Take off the stems from the
tomatoes, cut them into thick slices and put them in a deep bak-
ing dish, add a plentiful seasoning of pepper salt and butter
in the above proportion, cover the whole with bread crumbs, drop
over a little clarified butter, bake in a moderate oven from 20 min-
utes to 1-2 hour, and serve very hot. This vegetable, dressed as
above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all kinds of roast
meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may be baked
whole, but they will take rather longer time to cook ; 20 minutes to
1-2 hour.
STEWED TOMATOES. One teacupful of bread crumbs, i table-
VEGETABLES. 163
spoonful of good brown sugar, a teaspoonful of pepper, a heaped
tablespoonful of fresh butter, i dozen large tomatoes, a good sized
onion minced. Put in a covered stew pan and cook i hour ; shake
the pan frequently to keep from burning. Just before serving beat
up the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, stir them rapidly to the tomatoes, let
them stay a few minutes and serve in a covered dish or tureen. To-
matoes are best cooked slowly and a long time, and make a fine ac-
companiment for all kinds of roast or baked meats or fowls.
STEWED TOMATOES (English mode.) Eight or 10 tomatoes, 1-2
pint of good gravy, thickening of butter and flour, cayenne and salt
to taste. Take out the stalks of the tomatoes, put them into a wide
stew pan, pour over them the above proportions of good brown
gravy and stew gently until they are tender, occasionally carefully
turning them that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy
with a little butter and flour worked together in a plate ; let it just
boil up after the thickening is added and serve. Stew very gently
for 20 to 25 minutes.
To DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE. Twelve fine black truf-
fles, a few slices of fat bacon, i carrot, i turnip, 2 onions, i bunch of
savory herbs, including parsley ; i bay leaf, mint and thyme, 2 cloves,
i blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne, 1-2 pint of stock.
Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty smell, and
wash them well with a brush in cold water only until perfectly clean,
put the bacon into a stew pan with the truffles and remaining ingre-
dients. Simmer these gently for i hour and let the whole cool in a
stew pan. When to be served re-warm them and drain them in a
clean cloth, then arrange them on a delicate white napkin that it
may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and serve.
The trimmings of the truffles are used to flavor the gravies, stock,
sauces, &c., and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes
of fowl, &c. One hour for cooking.
The wholesomeness of the truffles is questionable. Truffles are
of different kinds and grow in clusters, and at a considerable depth
under the earth, and never upon the surface. There is nothing to
indicate wJiere they are, but hogs, attracted by their scent, root them
upto*eat, as they are fond of them. Truffles are unsuitable for
weak stomachs. They have a pleasant aroma. Their chief use
as seasoning, when dried and reduced tp powder, form a useful
culinary ingredient. They belong to the mushroom family.
ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES. Ten truffles, 1-4 pint of
salad oil, pepper and salt to taste ; i tablespoonful of minced pars-
ley, a very little finely minced garlic, 2 blades of powdered mace, i
tablespoonful of lemon juice. After cleaning and brushing the truf-
fles cut them into thin slices and put them in a baking dish with a
164 VEGETABLES.
seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic and mace in the above
proportions. Bake them for nearly an hour, and just before serving
add the lemon juice and send them to the table very hot. Nearly i
hour to cook..
TRUFFLES AU NATURAL. Truffles, buttered paper. Select some
fine truffles, cleanse them by washing them in separate waters
with a brush until not a particle of sand or grit remains on them,
wrap each truffle in a buttered paper and bake in a hot oven or
stew pan for i hour ; take off the paper, wipe the truffles and serve
them hot on a napkin ; i hour.
SQUASHES. Gather them when the rind can be entered by the
finger nail, then boil them either whole or sliced; if old, they
should be peeled; keep them in water until the time for cooking
them. If young and tender they will cook in 1-2 to 3-4 of an
hour, depending on the size and age. Add salt to the water when
boiling. Put them to cook in boiling water, cover the vessel closely.
When tender take them up and press them between 2 plates or
in a colander to remove the water, then mash them, and if there
are any hard pieces take them out, wipe the stew pan dry and re-
turn the squash, and season with cream, butter, salt and pepper to
taste. They can be parboiled and stewed to a beautiful brown with
slices of fat, sweet bacon, pepper and salt and a good spice of on-
ions, or after squeezing them dry dip the slices in thin batter and fry
them in fresh lard. Serve as fast as fried ; they should not be
piled.
DRYING COOKED PUMPKINS. After cutting the pumpkin in small
pieces, stew till soft, then thoroughly mash and strain them through
a colander; place the slrained pulp in thin layers in dishes or plates
not quite an inch thick, dry in a moderate stove or oven, tak-
ing care not to scorch it. It will dry in a day. Then store the
sheets away in a dry, cool place, when they are always ready for
pies or sauce. When used, soak them in sweet milk over night.
GREEN TURNIPS TO COOK. Remove the tops, wash, peel and cut
them into little billets, stew in not too much water ; when done dress
them with cream, butter, pepper, grated nutmeg and salt to taste.
Serve hot ; very nice.
BOILED TURNIPS. Turnips; to each 1-2 gallon of water allow i
heaped tablespoonful oi salt ; pare the turnips, and should they be
large, divide them into quarters, but unless this is the case let them
be cooked whole. After peeling them they should be washed in
several waters, and then divide them and put them into a sauce pan
of boiling water salted in the above proportion, and let them boil
gently till tender. Fry them with pork, and when done take them
in a colander or between two plates and let them drain thoroughly
VEGETABLES. l6$
and serve. Turnips are usually boiled with mutton or pork, or
pork shins, which gives the turnips a better flavor, while the meat is
greatly improved in taste by being cooked with them. They are
infinitely better mashed than served whole, but some prefer them
whole. Old turnips from 3-4 to i 1-4 hours, young ones 28 or 30
minutes for boiling.
MASHKD TURNIPS. Tenor 12 large turnips; to each 1-2 gallon of
water allow i heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 ounces of butter, cay-
enne or white pepper to taste. Peel, wash and quarter the turnips
and put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion, boil
them till tender, then drain them in a colander or between 2 plates.
Squeeze them as dry as possible, pressing them with the back of a
large plate. When quite free from water put them into a very clean
sauce pan, add the butter, white pepper or cayenne, or if necessary
a little salt. Keep stirring them over the fire until the butter is well
mixed with them and the turnips are thoroughly hot ; dish and serve.
A little cream or milk added after the turnips are pressed is an im-
provement to both the color and flavor of this vegetable, and also
pounded allspice or cloves, a very little. From 1-2 to 3-4 hour to
boil the turnips. 10 minutes to warm them through.
FRIED TURNIPS. --Peel, wash and slice them, put them in a stew
pan with a small portion of water and let simmer rather quickly with
a few slices of fat pork, pepper, pounded allspice, a bit of butter and
a pinch of salt. When the liquor has become nearly boiled away
thicken the gravy with a small portion of cream or milk and flour,
and boiling hot pour it over the dish of turnips, which should be
eaten hot.
BACON AND CABBAGE. The cabbages in this favorite winter dish
in the Southern States should be boiled in two waters with a little
red pepper in them, which gives a pleasant flavor to the cabbages,
as well as the pot-liquor, which arises from the boiling of the cab-
bages and bacon together. The liquor should be thoroughly drained
from the cabbages ; then take up the meat and lay the cabbages
neatly around it. Some garnish it with hard-boiled eggs. You can
season, when you eat it, with pepper, vinegar and salt.
To -STUFF CABBAGES. Examine it well after cutting off the green
leaves, wash it well and lay it in cold, clear water until ready for use.
Take out the heart or center, leaving 2 or 3 rows of leaves. Scald
the cabbage well, and when the leaves become soft there will be no
danger of their breaking. Chop the heart or bud very
fine ; then take scraps of meat, fowl, a few bread crumbs, an
onion (if approved) chopped fine, season high with pepper, salt
and a raw egg beaten ; work all together. Then make one large or
several small balls and put into the center of the cabbage ; then fold
1 66 "VEGETABLES.
the leaves over very carefully, wrap well with threads, tie it up in thin
muslin securely and boil until tender, or can be pierced with a straw.
Drain it from the water, serve on a hot dish, and pour over melted
butter after the strings and cloth are removed.
COLD SLAW. Shave a hard, white cabbage head to the finest pos-
sible threads with a very sharp knife or by machine. To every quart
of cabbage take the yolks of 3 eggs, beat them well and mix with
t 1-2 cupfuls of good cider vinegar, a tablespoonful of olive oil, i
tablespoonful of loaf sugar, i of thick, new cream, a heaped tea-
spoonful of white mustard, a piece of butter as large as a walnut,
pepper and salt to taste; stir them together and put this into a
sauce-pan ; when hot, add the cabbage, and stew for 4 or 5 minutes
until thoroughly hot. Then raise it up with a wooden, silver or white
metal fork. Take it up and set it away until perfectly cold, or on ice.
The vinegar should be strong and pure, or more will be required.
HOT SLAW. When the cabbages are tender, cook i hour ; add
vinegar to taste. Parboil the cabbages for 10 minutes after quarter-
ing and washing them carefully and shreding them finely, put them
into a stew-pan, and season with pepper and salt to taste; add 1-2
cup of water and an even tablespoonful of butter ; cover the pan and
stew until tender; stir frequently from the bottom.
STEWED RED CABBAGES. One red cabbage, a small slice of ham,
1 spoonful of fresh butter, t pint of weak stock or broth, i gill of
cider vinegar, and i tablespoonful of pounded sugar. Salt and
pepper to taste, and ccok rather more than i hour.
FRIED CABBAGES. Boil and chop them up, then fry them in but-
ter or bacon grease, adding pepper and salt and a little cream or new
milk to the gravy. Cold cabbage can be fried over for breakfast in
the same way.
CABBAGE STALKS. Scrape them and leave them in water all night,
and the next day cook them like vegetable marrow. They will be
found delicious. Season with cream or butter and pepper.
HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS One quart of haricot beans,
4 middling-sized onions, 1-4 pint of good brown .gravy, pepper and
salt to taste, and a little flour. Peel and mince the onions, but not
too finely, and fry them a light brown color in butter ; dredge them
over with a little flour and add the gravy and a seasoning of
pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of minced haricot beans
well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and gravy
mixed all well together, and serve very hot. Boil the beans for
2 or 2 1-2 hours; 5 minutes to fry the onions.
DRIED WHITE BEANS. Wash i quart of dried white beans, and
put them in a stew-pan with 3 quarts of cold water, a table-
spoonful of salt; set on the fire, and when boiling put them to
VEGETABLES. 167
simmer in the closed stew-pan on the stove corner until tender ;
drain and put them back in the stew-pan with i oz. butter, i table-
spoonful of chopped parsley, 2 pinches of salt, i small pinch of
pepper, 1-2 gill of the liquor of the beans; toss the beans until the
butter is melted, and serve. Haricot or French beans are also served
as a salad. Let them get cold, put them in a salad bowl, season with
oil or butter, vinegar, pepper and salt and a tablespoonful of celery
chopped fine.
BOILED CAULIFLOWER. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow one
heaped tablespoonful of salt. Choose cauliflowers that are close
and white, trim off the decayed outside leaves and cut the stalk
flat at the bottom, open the flower a little in places to remove
the insects, which generally are found about the stalk, and let
the cauliflowers lie in salt and water for an hour previous to
dressing them, with their heads downward ; this will effectually
draw out all the vermin ; then put them in fast-boiling water, with
the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let them boil briskly
on a good fire, keeping the sauce-pan uncovered. The water should
be well skimmed, and when the cauliflowers are tender take them
up with a slice or perforated ladle, and let them drain, and, if large
enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain, melted
butter, a little of which may be poured over the flower. Small caul-
iflower, 12 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes after the
water boils.
CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE 2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than
1-2 pint of broth or white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese,
i spoonful of fresh butter, and 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs
clean and boil the cauliflowers (as in recipe for boiled artichokes),
drain and dish them with the flowers standing upright ; have ready
the above proportion of white sauce ; pour sufficient of it over the
cauliflower to just cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped
cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which should
be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander or before the
fire, and pour not over, but around the flowers the remainder of the
sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated cheese.
Cook 1-2 hour. Cauliflower is cooked in every way, like cabbage.
To BOIL CAULIFLOWER (Mrs. Sicklan). If the flower is small
and tender, put it in boiling water and boil 20 minutes or a shorter
time. If the head is large, old and tough, boil for 30 minutes or a
little longer, putting it at first in a kettle of boiling water. Serve
hot, with butter or Tillie's sauce for cauliflowers. The water should
be salted. Some boil it in a bag to prevent it breaking off the small
sprigs.
BOILED ONIONS. In clear water and salt until tender, then take
l68 VEGETABLES.
them up and serve in a deep dish with melted butter, pepper and
salt.
RAW ONIONS Cut up in vinegar, pepper, salt and sugar, make a fine
relish for any kind of meat.
BAKED ONIONS. 4 or 5 onions, salt and water. Put the onions
with their skins on into a sauce-pan of boiling water slightly salted,
and let them boil quickly for i hour. Take them out, wipe them
thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper separately, and bake
them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the onions
be very large. They may be served in their skins and eaten with a
piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt, or they
may be peeled and a good brown gravy poured over them. Boil i
hour ; bake 2 hours.
STEWED ONIONS. 5 or 6 onions, i pint of brolh or gravy. Peel
the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the tops or tails,
or they would then fall to pieces ; put them into a ste\v-pan capable
of holding them at the bottom without piling one on the top of the
other; add the brother gravy and simmer very gently until the
onions are perfectly tender, dish them and pour the gravy around,
and serve. Instead of using broth, onions may be stewed with a
large piece of butter. They must be done very gradually over a
slow fire or hot plate, and will produce plenty of gravy. To stew in
gravy, 2 hours, or longer, if very large.
BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES. 1-2 Ib. onion, 1-2 pint water, 1-2
Ib. moist sugar, 1-3 pint cider vinegar. Peel and chop the onions
fine and put them into a (not tinned) stew-pan with the water; let
them boil for 5 minutes, then add the sugar and simmer gently until
the mixture becomes nearly black and throws out bubbles of smoke.
Have ready the above proportion of boiling vinegar, strain the liquor
gradually to it, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it is well
incorporated, and when cold, bottle for use. With many the onion
is a very great favorite, and is considered highly nutritive. It is
thought to have come originally from India, through Egypt, where
it became an' object of worship, and thence transmitted over the
world.
ONIONS ARE FRIED in butter or bacon grease after chopping them
up.
ONIONS IN CELLARS (Dr. Goot's Monthly). Half dozen onions
planted in the cellar, where they get even a little light, will do much
toward absorbing and correcting the atmospheric impurities that are
apt to lurk in such places.
A GOOD WAY TO COOK ONIONS. Peel i dozen onions, put them
in a kettle with water enough to cover them ; add a tablespoonful of
salt, put them on the fire and boil until well done, but so you can
VEGETABLES. 169
take them up whole with a fork, pour off the water, add 2 table-
spoonfuls of butter and 1-2 cup of cream, salt and pepper to taste.
To STEW GREEN CORN. After the corn has been cut from the
cobs with a sharp knife, put it into a stew-pan, then with the back
of the knife run over the cob, to obtain the remaining juice, hold-
ing it over the pan ; to each quart of corn, add 1-2 cup of water.
Stew from 1-2 to 3-4 hour, or until done, governed by the age
and kind of corn. When done, season with pepper and salt to
taste. Another way: With a sharp knife cut the grains of corn
from the cob, into a frying-pan, allowing i cup of water to i
quart of corn. It should be stirred frequently. Cook 1-2 hour.
Season to taste with pepper and salt, add a small piece of butter or
sweet lard, and fry a light brown color.
To DRESS CORN. When the silks or beards of the corn become
of almost a black brown, the grains are perfect and full of milk,
and not too hard. Commence by pulling off the silk and then
the husks (or shucks), then carefully pick off all the silks that
remain, after rubbing the ear of corn (or roasting ear) round in
a cloth held in the hand. Then put the corn in boiling water
with a little salt in it. If the corn is young, cook 1-2 hour. Cut
the corn from the cobs with a sharp knife ; put it into a covered
deep dish. Season with pepper, salt and butter, or serve the
ears hot as they are boiled. Sugar corn is best for table use.
GREEN CORN PUDDING. Three well beaten eggs, 3 cups of
green corn, i cup of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, and pepper
and salt to taste. Bake.
GRKEN CORN PUDDING WITH TOMATOES. Leave the grains as
whole as possible when trimming them down with a knife from the
ear, then scrape the cob to get all the milk. Then beat up 4 eggs
wiih a quart of milk, i quart of the rasped corn, and then add i pint
of tomatoes that have been stewed with sugar. Season with butter,
pepper and salt. Stir it well until thoroughly mixed and smooth.
Boil it in a pudding cloth. It is best to rasp the corn on a regular tin
corn-grater for puddings, etc.
BAKED CORN. Take 6 large ears of green corn or 12 ears of su-
gar corn, cut the grains off and scrape the cob; add 1-2 cupful of
butter, i tablespoonful nice sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub
these well together and add 2 cups of new sweet milk. Bake in a
dish that you may set on the table without disturbing it
BOILED PEAS. Put 2 quarts of water with 1-4 oz. of salt into
a 3-quart stew-pan on the fire ; when it boils pour in a quart of fresh
shelled peas, boil quickly, and when done drain and put them in a
sauce pan with 3 oz. of butter ; sprinkle with a little salt ; toss them
untill the butter is melted, and serve.
VEGETABLES,
N. P. One oz. of green mints may be added to the water in
which the peas are bo
STKVTKD PEAS WITH BACON. Take 1-4 Ib. of streaky bacon, re-
move the rind and cut the bacon in pieces i inch long and 1-4
inch thick ; blanch tor 5 minutes in boiling water, drain and put
them in a t-quart stew-pan with i oz. butter; fry tor 5 minutes, add
i-- oa. flour, and stir for 4 minutes; then add i pint of water, i
quart of fine peas and a green onion; when boiling cover the s
pan and simmer for 1-2 hour. Taste for seasoning; take out the
and skim the pot.
I WITH BACON (Managero). Put 2 pints of well-
boiled shelled peas into a stew-pan with 5 spoonfuls of brown sauce,
a of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar. ; button onions and a
bunch of parsley ; let it boil 5 minutes ; have ready-braised 4 OK, of
lean bacon, cut it in very small slices, add it to the peas, take out
the onions and parsley, season with i 02. of butter and a large pinch
MA wo',1 to-other and stew -o minutes, and serve.
SihwbD PKAS. Take i quart of tine peas freshly shelled, put
them in a quart stew-pan with 4 oz. of butter, i gill of water, j;
t onions, i pinch of salt and i oz, butter. Some add pat-
not advise it, as its strong flavor destroys the taste of the [
Close the stew-pan and boil the peas on a slow fire for 30 mini:
when done, add 3-4 oz. of Hour m\ . smooth paste with 4
ox. butter ; toss the sauce-pan until the butter is melted and the |
properly thickened; taste, and if wanted, add a little salt or sugar,
and serve. When preserved peas are used, open the and
throw the peas into boiling water, drain and season as you would
fresh ;
PAKSXIPS. Clean the parsnips, put them on the fire with soup
stock and let them boil till done, then mix some pounded crao\
and - I with the broth in which the parsnips h.
Boiled and let them boil a few minutes longer.
BOILKD PARSNIPS. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow i he
teaspoonful of salt. Wash the parsnips. them thor-
oughly, and with the point of the knife remove any blac'x
about them, and should they be ve: at the thick part into
quarters, put them into a sauce pan of boiling water salted the a!
proportion; boil them rapidly till tender, which may be ascertained
by thrusting a fork in them; take them up, drain them and serve in
a vegetable d;sh. Ti i^le is usually served with salt fish,
boiled pork or boiled beef; when sent to the table with the latter a
few should be placed alternately with carrots around the dish as a
garnish. Large parsnips i to i 1-2 hours; small ones 1-2 to i
hour. This vegetable is found wild all over Europe and England,
VEGKTAKJ.KS.
and an excellent wine is made from it By some the parsnip is con-
<:d unwholesome.
li'jii.i'jj BKKT ROOT. Beet root, boiling water; when young and
juicy this vegetable makes a most excellent dish, and may be easily
converted into pickle by dropping them into spiced vinegar. They
are eaten hot or cold ; if eaten hot melted butter should be poured
over them. They may be stewed with button onions or boiled, and
served with roasted onions. Wash the beets thoroughly, but do not
break the skin, as the juice will run out and spoil their beautiful color
in boiling. Then put them into boiling water with a little salt in it
.uul boil till tender, keeping them well covered. If to be served hot,
remove the peel quickly, cut the beet in thick slices and send to
table with melted butter. By. putting the beet in cold water the
skins slip off easily. For salad, pickles, &c., let the root cool, then
peel and cut into slices. The turnip and sugar beet are of all col-
ors, are always sweet and delicious, no matter how large. They grow
wild in temperate and semi-tropical climates. Boil small beet root
1 1-2 hours; large 2 1-2 to 3 hours.
BOM.KU TUHNJP GREENS. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow
one heaped tablespoonful of salt. Wash the greens well in
2 or 3 waters, pick off all the decayed and dead leaves, tie them
in .Mi.ul bunches or simply put them into plenty of boiling water
suited in the above proportion, keep th -m boiling quick with the lid
of the vessels removed, and when tender dip them up with a per-
forated ladle and then remove the strings with which they are tied
and serve. Boil for 15 minutes or longer. It is very good boiled
with fresh corned pork.
To BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS. To each 1-2 gallon of
water allow i heaped tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of
soda. Pick away all the dead leaves and wash the greens well
in cold water, drain them in a colander and put them into fast
boiling water with salt and soda in the above proportion ; keep
them boiling quickly with the lid removed till tender, and the
moment they are done take them up, or their color will be spoiled.
When well drained, serve. The great art in cooking greens prop-
erly, and to have a good color, is to put them in plenty of fast-
boiling water to let them boil very quickly, and to take them up
the moment they become tender. Broccoli sprouts from ten to 12
minutes; young greens 10 to 12 minutes after they boil.
NASTURTIUMS. The bright glowing flowers which seem to turn as
they glow with beauty, while hanging over the partly colored rotund
leaves of dapple green and white, the pride of the California gar-
dens, make a fine relish of delicate mustard flavor when eaten with
any kind of cold meat, and with loaf bread and butter. They make
172 VEGETABLES.
a handsome garnish and a beautiful breakfast dish. They should be
washed before using, but handled delicately. The pods also are
good and make excellent pickle, and are a fine substitute for capers
in making sauce.
BOILED SEA KALE To each 1-2 gallon of water allow i table-
spoonful of salt ; wash the kale well and cut away the worm-eaten
pieces and tie it into small bunches, or throw it loosely into boiling
water salted in the above proportion ; take it out, drain, untie the
bunches, or dip it up with a perforated ladle and serve with plain
butter or cream, which should be hot, and poured over. Sea kale
may be parboiled and stewed in brown gravy. It will then take about
1-2 hour altogether. Boil 15 or 20 minutes. Different kinds of salads
may be boiled together.
To DRESS CUCUMBKRS, Three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 ta-
blespoonfuls of good cider vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Let
the cucumbers be gathered early in the morning while the dew is on
them, and then drop them into cold water and kept in a cool, damp
place, then have ready a bowl of cool, clean water, pare the cucum-
bers and drop them in the water ; when done, draw the water off
and put in a supply of fresh, then cut the cucumbers up in thin, round
slices until reaching the bitter end, which should be rejected ; then
pour cold' water on the cucumbers several times, then put them in
a cold dish, then pour the vinegar over them first, then the oil, then
pepper and salt and put them in the refrigerator or in a cool vessel
with water in it. This can be eaten with anything and at any meal.
If the salt is added before the vinegar it will cause the fruit to wilt.
Cucumbers should have 1-3 onions cut up with them to have them
in perfection, and if they can be set on ice it is best to cut them up
in the morning in a bowl of water and set them on the ice until
about to be used, then pour the water off and season with vinegar,
&c The oil can be left out if desired.
STEWED CUCUMBERS. Three large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather
more than i pint of good gravy ; cut the cucumbers lengthwise the
size of the dish they are to be served in ; empty them of their seeds
and put them into boiling water with a little salt and let them sim-
mer for 5 minutes, then take them out, place them in another stew
pan with the gravy and let them boil over a brisk fire until they
are done. Should these be bitter add a lump of sugar, carefully
dish them, skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers and serve ; cook
20 minutes.
CUCUMBKRS A LA POULETTE. Take 2 or 3 middle-sized cucum-
bers, salt, vinegar, i spoonful of butter, flour, 1-2 pint of broth, i
teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs,
pepper and salt to taste. Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of
VEGETABLES. 173
an equal thickness, 2 inches in length, i inch thick, and let them re-
main in the salt and vinegar for 1-2 hour, then drain them in a cloth
and put them in the stew pan with the butter; fry them over a brisk
fire but do not brown them, and then dredge over them a little flour.
Add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to the surface, and
boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced ; stir in the yolks of
the eggs, add the parsley, sugar and the seasoning of pepper and
salt, and bring the whole to a boiling point and serve. Or, the cu-
cumber can be stewed in 2 quarts of water with i oz. of butter, 2
pinches of salt. Simmer till tender, which can be ascertained by
pressing them ; if done it will enter easily. Drain on a cloth, make
a pint of poulette sauce, put the cucumber in it and serve.
OKRA AND TOMATOES. Take an equal quantity of each, slice the
okra and skin the tomatoes, add a little chopped onion and a little
sugar, seasoned with salt and pepper. Use no water, but stew for
45 minutes ; to each quart of the mixture add a piece of butter as
large as a walnut ; and then put in the stew pan. Take care that it
does not burn.
STEWED ENDIVES. Six heads of endives, salt and water, i pint
of broth, thickening of butter and flour, i tablespoonful of lemon
juice, a small lump of sugar. Wash and free the endive thor-
oughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves and put
i: into boiling water slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes,
take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and chop it very
fine. Put it into the stew pan with the broth, add a little salt and a
lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When
done, which may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the
thumb and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour, and lemon
juice ; let the sauce boil up and serve.
ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISK. Six heads of endive, i pint of broth, 3
ounces of fresh butter, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste.
Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe, chop it rather
fine and put it into a stew pan with the broth ; boil over a brisk fire
until the sauce is all reduced, then put in the butter, pepper, salt and
grated nutmeg (the last must be very sparingly used); mix all to-
gether, bring it to the boiling point and serve very hot; 10 minutes
to boil, 5 to simmer in the broth.
SHALLOTS. Remove the outside skin and cut off the green part,
unless very tender, then chop up the root and a little of the green
part, joining the root, then put them in a frying pan in cold water ;
when the water is on the eve of boiling pour it off, add a few slices
of sweet bacon or pork and fry them, turning them often ; or boil
the bulbs in salted water and serve with melted butter, pepper and a
little salt. Some persons eat them raw with vinegar, pepper and salt,
174 VEGETABLES.
or serve with lettuce, radishes and water cresses, and are often used
in the place of onions.
This plant, it is supposed, was brought from Ascalon by the cru-
saders, who found it growing wild in the vicinity of that ancient and
renowned city. It is an excellent condiment in pickles, sauces, soups,
&c., &c., called by old authors the "barren onion."
THE LEEK is the national badge of the Welsh, and is widely dif-
fused over the earth as an edible, and was bewailed with the cucum-
ber in the journey through the desert. It is the most delicate of the
onion tribe.
THE LEEK. When used the skin should be removed, then lay
them in cold water an hour ; boil in salted water until tender ; serve
them in a hot covered dish with melted butter, pepper and salt.
HULLED CORN (F. S. P.) Take 3 quarts corn, 3 quarts un-
leached wood ashes or 1-4 pound potash ; to ashes or potash add 6
quarts of water, which boil, then strain into kettle, put in the
corn, boil until skins break from kernels easily, stirring frequently;
skim out the corn, rinse it several times, rubbing thoroughly the last
time; leave it to soak in clear water 10 minutes, when rub off black
chits ; rinse again, put back into kettle, cover with water, boil slowly
till soft; keep hot water to add until boiled tender. When cold eat
with plain cream or milk, or cream and sugar.
BOILED HOMINY. (E. L. M.) Boiled; soak i cup of hominy in
3 cups of water with salt to taste. In the morning turn it into a tin
quart pail, then put the pail or tin bucket in a kettle of boiling water,
cover tightly and steam i hour, then add i teacup of sweet milk and
boil 15 minutes after stirring the milk in.
LYK HOMINY. To i gallon of shelled Indian corn add i quart of
strong lye of wood ashes. Boil until the grains begin to swell and
the husks begin to come off the corn. Rub until the husk is entirely-
removed with the hands, wash it well and boil in plenty of water un-
til the grains are soft. It requires long boiling, and should be re-
plenished with hot water instead of cold. When nearly done, boil ;
add salt sufficiently to season. To prevent its burning when nearly
done stir it from the bottom. It may be beaten slightly with a
wooden mallet before using it, and fry in a small quantity of sweet
lard or butter. Take up in a wooden bowl or earthen jar. Both
should be covered. In cold weather it will keep several days. It is
one of the best of Southern dishes.
FRIED MUSH. Make a moderately thin mush, pour it thinly over
a large, flat dish. When perfectly cold sprinkle a little flour over the
top ; slice it with a knife as for a pie. Have a pan of hot lard and
lay it in carefully, and when perfectly brown turn it over and brown the
other side. This excellent dish, or the mush, may be poured in a
pan to mould it
VEGETABLES. 175
To BOIL LETTUCE. Wash clean, boil it in soft salt and water, then
put it into cold water to cool. Chop it in the same manner as spin-
ach, and finish as spinach with this exception : you bind it with the
yolks of a few eggs stirred into some cream. Endives can be pre-
pared in the same way.
CABBAGE LETTUCE WITH GRAVY. Take 8 sound and full cabbage
lettuce, trim off all the outside leaves, wash and blanch for 10 min-
utes, cool them well, squeeze the water out, cut them in two, lay
them open on a dish, and season them with 3 pinches of salt, tie the
halves together and put in a 2-quart stew pan, cover them with broth
and add 2 gills of fat pot stock, parsley, thyme and mint and i on-
ion with 2 cloves stuck in it; place a round of paper on the top and
simmer for 2 hours When cooked drain on a cloth, untie and open
the lettuce again, cut the stalks out and fold the leaves round, giv-
ing to each piece an oval shape about 3 inches by 2, and dish them
up in a circle; reduce to i 1-2 pint of household gravy to 1-2 the
quantity, and pour over the lettuce and serve. Thin slices of
crumbed bread cut to the shape of lettuces and fried in butter can
be put between each slice.
BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW. To each 1-2 gallon of water allow
i tablespoonful of salt ; vegetable marrow. Have ready a sauce
pan of boiling water salted in the above proportions, put in the
marrows after peeling them, and boil them until tender, take them
up with a slice and halve, and should they be very large quarter
them ; dish them on toast and send to table with them a tureen
of melted butter, or in the place of this a small ball of salt but-
ter. Vegetable marrows are very delicious mashed ; they should
be boiled, then drained and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon.
Heat them in a sauce pan, add a seasoning of salt and pepper and
a small piece of butter, and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread
placed around as a garnish. Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20
minutes; old ones 1-2 to 3-4 hour for cooking.
VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE. Four or 5 moderate-
sized marrows, 1-4 pint of white sauce. Pare the marrows, cut them
into halves and shape each half at the top in a point, leaving the
bottom end flat for it to stand upright in the dish. Boil the marrows
in salt and water until tender, take them away very carefully and ar-
range them on a hot dish; have ready 1-2 pint of white sauce, pour
this over the marrows and serve. This vegetable cooks from 15
to 20 minutes, and belongs to the cucumber or melon tribe.
PUMPKIN. Open the pumpkin, take out the seeds, slice and peel
the rind off, or peel before slicing ; do not scrape the inside, cut it
in small pieces, put them to stew in a covered vessel with very little
water. To prevent their burning stir them often from the bottom.
176 VEGETABLES.
In cool weather a good deal may be cooked at a time and kept in a
cool, dry place in a tin or an earthen vessel. Fry with a little sweet
lard or dress with butter, a little sugar and ginger, or mix with milk or
cream, eggs, and spices for making puddings or custards. They can
be dried aiso as apples for any of the above purposes, and are found
excellent. This will do in very cold winters, where the pumpkin
cannot be kept from freezing.
CASHEW AND DAINTY SQUASH Cut them in two, remove the seed,
and bake them with the rind on. Scrape out the inside or eat the
flesh on the rind ; season with butter, pepper, salt or a little mace, or
it may be eaten with cream or milk as a dessert.
BAKED PUMPKINS. Take a hard-shelled or potato pumpkin, slice
or divide them in 2 or 4 pieces. Serve with butter and salt in a dish.
Eaten hot or cold.
VERY THIN MASHED POTATOES. To every Ib. of mashed pota-
toes allow 1-2 pint of good broth or stock and a large spoonful of
fresh butter. Boil the potatoes, drain them well and mash them
smoothly with a fork ; add the stock or broth and rub the potatoes
through a sieve, put the mixture into a sauce-pan with the butter,
stir it over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it will be ready to serve.
This mixture should be rather thinner than mashed potatoes, and is
a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets.
Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when it is not at hand.
A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for ragouts instead of
rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly, placing them on a
dish and making an opening in the center. After having browned
the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean and the
ragout or fricassee poured in. Half hour to boil the potatoes ; 6 or
7 minutes to warm the puree.
POTATO RISSOLE. Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste ;
when liked, a very little minced parsley, eggs and bread crumbs.
Boil and mash the potatoes as in recipe for mashed potatoes ;
add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and when liked a little
minced parsley. Roll the potatoes into small balls, cover them
with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them in hot lard for 10
minutes ; let them drain before the fire, dish plain and serve.
Ten minutes to fry rissoles.
N. B. The flavor of these rissoles may be very much in-
creased by adding finely-minced tongue or ham, or chopped on-
ions, when liked, or minced codfish is good.
POTATOES, as an esculent for the human family, rank next in
value to wheat, and it has been demonstrated that an acre of
potatoes will feed double the number of persons that an acre of
wheat will.
VEGETABLES.
POTATO SNOW. Potatoes, salt and water. Choose large, white
potatoes, as free from spots as possible ; boil them in their skins
in salt and water until perfectly tender; drain and dry them
thoroughly by the fire, and peel them. Put a hot dish before
the fire, rub ihe potatoes through a coarse sieve on to this dish.
Do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, and serve
as hot as possible. Half to three-quarters of an hour to boil
the potatoes.
COLCANNON (An Irish dish). Boil in vessels equal quanti-
ties of potatoes and cabbages: when the former are fit to peel take
off the j ickets and mix the two together in a sauce-pan, after pour-
ing off the cabbage liquor, then beat them up together and add an
oz. of lard or drippings to each pound of potatoes. Season with
pepper and salt, and add to the cabbage an onion or two.
BAKED POTATOES. Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as
possible ; wash them in lukewarm water, scrub them well, for the
browned skin of a baked potato by many persons is considered the
better part of it, as it contains more of the genuine flour. Put them
in a moderate oven and bake them tor 2 hours, turning them 3 or 4
times whilst they are baking. Serve on a napkin immediately after
they are dune, for, if they are kept a long time in the oven or stove,
they will have a shriveled appearance. Potatoes may be roasted
before the fire or in the ashes. Eat them with cold butter. Large
potatoes in a hot oven, i 1-4 hours to 2 hours or 2 1-2 hours.
How TO USE COLD POTATOES. To every pound of cold potatoes
allow 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 of onion chopped fine, i spoonful
of butter, milk or cream. Mash the potatoes with a kitchen fork
until perfectly free from lumps : stir in the other ingredients, add
sufficient milk to moisten them well, press the potatoes in a mould
and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown, which will be
from 20 to 30 minutes. Bread may be made of the potato by mix-
ing a small portion of flour with it. In Scotland, cold potatoes are
often squeezed up and mixed with flour or oat meal, and an excellent
cake or sconce obtained.
MASHED POTATOES. To every pound of mashed potatoes allow
i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sweet milk or cream, and salt
and pepper to taste. Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done,
drain them, and let them get thoroughly dry before the fire, by the
side of the fire or in a cold stove; then peel them, and as they are
peeled, put them into a clean sauce-pan, and with a large fork beat
them to a light paste ; add butter, milk and salt in the above pn-
portion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire ; when thoroughly
hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over the pota-
toes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in this
178 VEGETABLES.
manner, they may be browned on top with a salamander or before
the fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn
them out and brown them in the oven ; this is a pretty mode of
serving, but it makes them heavy. In whatever way they are sent
to table care must be taken to have them free from lumps. From
1-2 to 3-4 hour to boil the potatoes.
MOCK POTATOES. Boil a number of small potatoes, squeeze
them in a cloth to dry them, then peel and mash them while
hot to free them from lumps; then press them with the hands into
the form of potatoes, put a cloth over them to keep them from
browning, and put them a moment in a stove before serving, then
send them hot pouring melted butter over them to table. No one
could detect them from the true potato ; so you can have them as
large or as small and as uniform as you may wish. They are beau-
tiful when served.
CHINESE WAY OF COOKING RICE. Take a clean stew-pan with a
closely-fitting top, then take a clean piece of white muslin large
enough to cover over the top of the pan and hang down inside nearly
to, but not in contact, with the bottom. Into the sack so formed
place the rice, pour over 2 cupfuls water, and put over the top of the
stew-pan, so as to hold up the muslin inside, and fit tightly all around.
Place the pan over a slow fire, and the steam generated from the
water will cook the rice. Each grain, it is stated, will come out ol
the boiler as dry and distinct as if just taken from the hull. More
water may be poured into the pan if necessary, but only sufficient to
keep up the steam until the rice is cooked. The pan must not be so
hot as to cause the steam to throw off the lid.
SPINACH. Pick, wash, blanch and chop 2 Ibs. of spinach ;
put in a 3-quart stew-pan i oz. of butter, 3-4 oz. of flour and i
pinch of salt; stir over the fire for 3 minutes; put in the spinach
and stir well for 5 minutes ; moisten with i gill of broth and stir
2 minutes ; then add 2 more gills of broth, stirring for five min-
utes more. Take the spinach from the fire, add i oz. butter ; stir
until it is well melted and mixed ; put the spinach on a dish ;
then take a slice of bread 1-2 inch thick, cut in i 1-2 inch triangu-
lar pieces; melt i oz. of butter in a small stew-pan; skirn it when
melted; put in the pieces of bread, fry and toss them until of
alight brown color; drain and place them around the spinach,
and serve. Milk may be used instead of broth, in the proportion
of spinach. Garnish with nasturtium leaves, flowers and buds.
SPINACH WITH SUGAR. The spinach is prepared as above, using
milk instead of broth, and adding 1-2 oz. of pounded sugar.
SPINACH PLAINLY DRESSED. Boil for 1-2 hour in clear water ; put
a small lump of soda or saleratus in the water if you wish it a beau-
VEGETABLES. I 79
tiful green. Drain it well, dish and place on the top of it pepper,
butter and poached eggs. It can be boiled with bacon.
SPINACH. Boil in the above manner and fry toast in three-cor-
nered pieces. Stick over it and lay poached eggs thereon.
STEWED OKRA. Wash according to the directions given, cut them
in round slices and put them in a stew pan with a tablespoonful
of butter into which has been rubbed a teaspoonful of fine flour ;
to each quart of okra add 1-2 cup of water ; salt and pepper to
taste. Cover the stew pan and shake it now and then, and stew
till tender. Serve hot in a covered dish. A few tomatoes and a
little onion to okra make a great improvement. It is an excellent
sauce for boiled rice.
BAKED SWEET OR IRISH POTATOES WHOLE. Put some sticks
across the bottom of your oven or baking pan, wash your pota-
toes thoroughly and lay them on the sticks, pour in 1-2 cup of
water or more, then bake until done.
BAKED IRISH POTATOES. Take your potatoes, after they are
boiled, and mash them while hot, then put sweet cream or new
milk, pepper and salt, and some butter with them, and an egg ;
knead the mixture thoroughly, and then put it in a pan with a piece
of butter on the top and bake. It is a nice dish. Sweet potatoes
can be treated in the same way.
FRIED SWEET POTATOES. Boil them till 1-2 done, take them up
and let them cool, then slice and flour the pieces both sides and
drop them in a pan of hot sweet bacon fat and fry till of a light
brown, when dish and serve hot.
FRIED POTATOES WITH BUTTER. While in the colander, and
just having been fried, add to a portion of potatoes about i spoon-
ful of butter ; toast till melted and serve plain as round steak.
FRIED POTATOES WITH CAYENNB PEPPER. When just done throw
1-2 teaspoonful of cayenne over them ; toast and serve them.
FRIED CHIPPED OR RIBBONED POTATOES. Cut some potatoes
crosswise about the thickness of an inch, then peel them thinly in
ribbons and fry as above. They will require a little longer doing.
When they are crisp take them out, place them on a clean cloth,
and sprinkle them over with salt, cayenne and black pepper to taste,
and serve.
To FRY SWEET POTATOES. Wash and slice them very thick, put
into a frying pan, put butter and sugar between each layer, then pour
or cover with water and set on the fire to fry, turning them the usual
way.
NOTE Put butter in the pan and let it get hot before adding the
potatoes, with the pan off the fire.
To BOIL POTATOES. Boil 10 or any number of potatoes, to each
l8o VEGETABLES.
1-2 gallon of water allow i heaped tablespoonful of salt. GVOM:
potatoes of equal size for this: the Utah potatoes are the best ; peel
them, take out ail the eyes and specks, and as they are peeled throw
them into cold water, just enough to cover them, with salt in the
above proportion, and let them boil gently till tender; ascertain
when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take up the
moment they feel soft through, for if they are left in the water after-
wards they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put the
sauce pan by the side of the fire with the lid partially uncovered to
allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry,
and do not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture will
evaporate, and the potatoes, if of a good sort, should be perfectly
mealy and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size that it is
difficult to give the exact time for boiling; they should be atten
lively watched and probed with a fork to ascertain when they are
cooked. Send them to the table quickly and very hot, and with an
opening in the cover of the dish, that a portion of the steam may
evaporate, and not fall back on the potatoes. Utah and moderate-
sized old potatoes 15 to 20 minutes after the water boils; large ones
from 1-2 hour to 35 minutes. Seasonable all the year round, but the
new potatoes are the best. To keep them hot after draining them,
have cloth for the purpose (either flannel or cotton), fold it and put
it on the top of them, keep the sauce pan lid partially uncovered.
This will absorb the moisture and keep them hot without spoiling.
In Ireland they are boiled with the skins on them, and are best sent
to the table so ; but they should be thoroughly washed and rubbed
with a brush or coarse cloth before you cook them.
To STEAM POTATOES. Pare them and throw them into cold wa-
ter as they are peeled, then put them into a steamer, place the steamer
over a sauce pan of boiling water and steam the potatoes from 20
to 40 minutes, according to the size and sort ; when a fork goes
easily through them they are done, then take them up, dish, and
serve very quickly; 20 to 40 minutes; 2 large potatoes to each per-
son.
To Boiu OLD POTATOES. Small and large potatoes should not be
put to cook at the same time; common sense would suggest this.
Boil old potatoes by the foregoing receipt; Have a coarse cloth
ready, and as each potato is lifted from the kettle squeeze it in a cor-
ner of the cloth, slip the skin off, and they will be dry and beauti-
fully mealy. Serve with melted butter on a hot dish. Old pota-
toes are good baked with their skin on and served with cold but-
ter.
SWEET POTATO BALLS. First boil the potatoes, then carefully
mash the farinaceous part. Boil in the meantime 2 cups of milk,
VEGETABLES. l8l
put in some lemon peel, a couple of lumps of sugar and a little
salt. When the milk boils take it off the fire and add the pota-
toes, so as to form a paste, or rather a tolerably thick mush.
When cool make it into balls, cover these with crumbs of bread
and yolk of egg ; fry to a nice brown color and serve up with
sugar thrown over them.
To COOK SWKET POTATOES OF IRISH POTATOES. Steam them
well and mash till no lumps are left and sweeten with common
brown sugar ; then bake or fry, or make into a pudding.
To FRY Swh.ET POTATOES. Pare, slice them, fry them in hot
lard like fritters and sprinkle them with fine salt as they are taken
from the lard
To BAKE SWEET POTATOES. Wash them clean and wipe them
with a clean cloth, then cut off the ends, put them in an oven
or stove pan, bake slowly, put a cupful of hot water over every
peck of potatoes before cooking them, put some cabbage leaves
over the potatoes before putting on the lid, if baked in an oven.
This will prevent their burning, then put fire on the lid ; when
done serve with their peels on, or if peeled and sliced put a layer
on the bottom of the dish, then some bits of butter, a little sugar,
a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon, then another layer of pota-
toes, and seasoning until the dish is filled. Set it in the oven or
stove until hot and serve. This is excellent for a tea dish.
To ROAST SWKKT POTATOES. Open the ashes on a hot hearth,
sweep it and put in the potatoes, then put on some cold, then hot
ashes, let them remain till done. It is best to turn them over and re-
cover them for a moment in order to cook them thoroughly, and Irish
potatoes should be done in the same way.
T STEW SWEET POTATOES. Slice them or cut in rings 1-2 inch
thick, then put in pieces of tender liver or pork chops. When
done take them all up together, season the gravy with milk or cream,
a little finely minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Potatoes are
liked peeled and roasted under meat. They should be cut under
medium size for this purpose. _
POTATOES A LA MAITRE DE HOTEL, Potatoes, salt and water; to
every 6 potatoes allow i tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 ounces
of butter, pepper and salt to taste ; 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2
tablespounfuls of lemon juice. Wash the potatoes clean and boil
them in salt and water wiih their skins on, allowing i tablespoonful
of salt to every gallon of water; when they are done drain them,
let them cool, then peel jand cut the potatoes into thin slices ; if
these are too thin they would break in the sauce. Put the butter
into a stew pan with the pepper, salt, gravy and parsley, mix
these ingredients well together, put in the potatoes, shake them 2 or
I 82 SALADS.
three times that they may be well covered with the sauce, and when
quite hot through squeeze the lemon juice and serve ; 1-2 to 3-4 hour
to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes to heat them.
SALADS.
CHICKEN SALAD (Ella). Take the breasts of 2 chickens, 2 large
bunches of celery and 4 hard-boiled eggs, chop these separately and
fine; put together and mix thoroughly; then make a gravy of one
tablespoonful of fine beaten mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, i
cup of cider or grape vinegar and 1-2 cup of butter, and pour hot
over the salad.
LOBSTEH AND FISH SALADS. A very nice and elegant dish may
be made with all kinds of cold fish and some kinds of shell fish.
The following is for a small lobster salad, and will do for all fish sal-
ads : Have the bowl half-filled with any kind of salad herbs you
like. Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat
in one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of both in small
slices about 1-4 of an inch thick; arrange these tastefully on the
salad ; take out all the soft part of the belly, mix it in a basin
with a teaspoonful of salt, 1-2 a one of pepper, 4 of vinegar and
4 of oil ; stir it well together and pour on the salad ; then cover it
with hard eggs cut in slices, a few slices of cucumber, and, to
vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy.
SWEET BREAD SALAD (Mrs. D. C. B.). Four hard-boiled and
one raw egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, i teaspoonful of salt, i
of pepper, 2 of sugar, 2 of mixed mustard, 1-2 teacupful of vin-
egar, i calf's sweet bread and 2 heads of lettuce. For dressing
mash the yolks and mix the oils thoroughly, adding the vinegar
last. Boil the sweet bread thoroughly until tender, pick it up in
small pieces; break the lettuce also in small pieces, and then
put in a dish alternate layers of lettuce, sweet bread and dress-
ing. Use the whites of the eggs sliced over the top.
CABBAGE SALAD. One well beaten egg, i teaspoonful each of
salt and sugar, 1-2 teaspoonful mustard, 1-4 of a teaspoonful pep-
per, and 2-3 of a cup of vinegar. Beat all well together, boil in
a bowl over the steam of a teakettle until quite thick, then pour
the mixture over a small head of cabbage chopped fine. If too
thick, add cold vinegar. To be eaten cold.
NOTE. If liked, chopped lettuce can be used instead of cabbage,
only the vinegar should be perfectly cold when poured over the let-
tuce, which should be setting in a vessel of cold water to keep it
crisp.
RUSSIAN SALAD. Cook some fillets of quails and chickens in a
SALADS. 183
frying-pan with a little butter; drain and put them on a plate to cool.
Cook some thin slices salmon in the same way. Wash and trim 8
very small king fish and cut them into small slices together with the
quails, chickens and salmon. Cut some carrots and turnips with a
small, round vegetable scoop ; blanch and cook them in water with
a little salt added ; boil some asparagus peas and some French beans
cut in diamond-shaped pieces ; drain all above the vegetables, and
when cold, put them in a basin with the fish, chicken and quail,
season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, a little cayenne and some
chopped rovicote or celery. Prepare a^Dorder of white jelly, gar-
rash with olives and small Indian pickles ; when set, turn the bor-
der out on a dish ; add some partly-melted aspic jelly to the
salad in the basin; mix and dish it up in layers inside the bor-
der; pour a little jelly over each layer, and let it set completely
before adding another; continue the layers, diminishing each one
until the whole comes to a point, and serve.
IRISH POTATO SALAD (Mrs. E.'s recipe). Take cold Irish po-
tatoes that were peeled hot, cut them in thin, round slices, boil some
eggs hard, mash the yolks hot in vinegar and season it with mustard
or celery seed and rolled with a pinch of sugar ; put them in a salad
dish, pour the sauce over them and garnish with the white of an
egg cut in rings. It is excellent for a Sunday dinner, particularly
with cold roast beef.
CUCUMBER SALAD. To 100 cucumbers put a quarter of a peck
of small onions, pare the cucumbers and slice them thin, also the
onions. Cover with salt and set in the sun for 6 hours, then rinse
clean with water several times, letting them remain in the last
water an hour. For the dressing take a box of the best mustard,
put into it a little salt and pour olive oil enough to stir it well,
then vinegar enough to moisten and more oil, and then vinegar
until it is thin enough to pour smoothly. Fill the jars with cucum-
bers and pour on dressing enough to completely cover them ; seal
the jars tight.
MIXTURE FOR SALAD (Mrs Randolph.) Take a large mealy
Irish potato that has been boiled, squeeze it through a cloth, and
while hot mash it fine, then add it to the mixture already prepared
of the raw yolks of 2 eggs well beaten, 2 tablespoonfuls of pre-
pared mustard, 4 or 5 spoonfuls of sweet oil, the same of vinegar,
some pepper and salt, adding a little sugar. Stir all to a perfect
cream, then pour over lettuce cabbage or any of the salad vegeta-
bles, cut very fine, or rather coarse, if liked. Shrimps, herring, fish,
chicken or veal may be chopped and added. Then with a wooden
fork stir up all lightly and serve. If liked, hard boiled eggs cut up
coarsely may be added as garnish on the top.
I 84 SALADS.
LFMON SAUCE. Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice and
put them in melted butter ; give it one boil, and pour it over boiled
fowls.
CALIFORNIA SALAD DRESSING. To every 2 hard-boiled eggs take
the yolk of i raw, 2 tablespoonfuls of oil, i of cider vinegar, salt
spoonful of salt, a little cayenne pepper, i teaspoonful of white
ground mustard, white hard lettuce or cabbage, a little sugar, 2
or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream ; mash the eggs and rub with the raw
yolk, then add oil and beat up till it is like smooth cream ; beat
while each ingredient is carefully added i at a time.
SALAD, RED HERRING (Polish.) Take potatoes boiled and peeled,
pickled cucumbers, peeled apples, roast veal and salt herrings that
have been soaked in water, from which the skin and bones have
been taken, some French mustard, a little sugar, ground white pep-
per, plenty of sweet oil and best white vinegar. Cut into thin slices
(or dice or cube shaped), mix the whole together. If sour enough
and too dry thin with a little water, boiled, or wine, and a more deli-
cious salad can not be prepared, if the required amount of oil \viih
the yolk of an egg is made into a sauce mayonaise. It is not easy to
give the exact quantity of each ingredient, but the mixture will be
very near right by taking the proportion of 10 herrings to 30 pota-
toes, and of each of the other ingredients a quantity equal to that
of the herrings, and on each a quantity of salad it would take nearly
a pint of sweet oil. Finely sliced onions and beets may be added,
so also the potatoes may be left out and substituted by roast veal.
Fill in dishes and dress with thin slices of smoked salmon, parsley,
beets, pickles, &c.
SALMON SALAD. Cut some salmon into scallops i 1-2 inch in di-
ameter and 1-2 inch thick, put them in a buttered frying pan, season
with salt and pepper and fry them ; when done drain the scallops
and put them in a dish to cool ; then season them slightly with salt,
pepper, oil and vinegar; pour a 1-4 inch layer of white aspic jelly
in a plain bordered mould with some olives, cabbage lettuces cut in
quarters, and hard boiled eggs, arranging the whole tastefully ; fill up
the mould with aspic jelly, and when the latter is set turn the border
out on to a dish. Dish the salmon over some partly melted aspic
jelly seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar and chopped parsley or cel-
ery, and when this first row is set fill up the center with some of the
unshapely pieces, and dish another and reversed circle of salmon
scollops on the fish ; pour over some more seasoned jelly, and con-
tinue reversing and diminishing the circles until they come to a
point; pour over some more jelly; put i hard-boiled egg with a
cabbage lettuce heart stuck in it on the top and serve.
SAUCES AND CATSUP. 185
SAUCES AND CATSUP.
BLACK BUTTER. Put 2 spoonfuls of butter in a stew pan, set it
on the fire till it acquires a brownish color, throw in about 20 pars-
ley leaves, i gill of vinegar, 1-2 teaspoonful of salt, a large pinch of
pepper; boil together i minute. It is excellent with boiled fish.
MAITRE D' HOTEL BUTTER. Mix well together upon a plate four
ounces of fresh sweet butter, i good tablespoonful of chopped pars-
ley, the juice of 2 lemons, a large pinch of salt, a small pinch of pep-
per ; set in a cool place for use.
WINE SAUCE. One-fourth pint of claret or port wine, the same
quantity of plain unflavored mutton gravy, and a tablespoonful of
currant jelly ; let it just boil up and send it to the table in a sauce
pan.
SAUCE FOR SALAD DRESSING. The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. brown
sugar ; beat well together, add gradually 2 ounces salad oil, beating
until well mixed, then add 2 ounces salt, 2 ounces mustard, 1-2 oz.
black pepper and 1-2 pint of strong cider vinegar. This mixture
surpasses all others by adding to salad, and will keep good fora long
time.
OUDE SAUCE (Kennicut.) One pint green tomatoes, 6 peppers,
not large, 4 onions, chop together, add i cup of salt and let it stand
over night ; in the morning drain off the water and add i cup of su-
gar, i cup of horseradish, i tablespoonful of ground cloves, the same
of ground cinnamon ; cover with vinegar and then stew all gently.
CAPKR SAUCE WITH VINEGAR. Take 2 spoonfuls of capers and
a little vinegar, mince the 1-2 and stir the whole of them into 1-2
pint of melted butter or strong thickened gravy. To prevent the
butter from oiling stir the sauce for some time. When wanted very
poignant, lemon juice may be added to this simple and tasteful
sauce.
TOMATO SAUCE FOR HOT OR COLD MEATS. Put tomatoes, when
perfectly ripe, into an earthen jar, set it in an oven; when the juice
is drawn till they are perfectly soft, then separate the skins from the
pulp and mix these with Chili vinegar and a few cloves of garlic
pounded, which must both be proportioned to the quantity of fruit.
Add powdered ginger and salt to your taste. Some white wine vin-
egar and cayenne may be used instead of the Chili vinegar. Keep
the mixture in small wide-mouthed bottles well corked and in a dry
place.
SAUCE FOR A TURKEY OR ANY FOWL. Boil some veal gravy,
pepper and salt, the juice of an orange and lemon, and a quarter
as much port wine as gravy. Pour it on a dish.
l86 SAUCES.
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. Clip away the tops and tails of a break-
fast cupful of small green gooseberries, scald, drain and stir into
melted butter with a little lemon juice or vinegar; a little ginger may
be added, or the scalded gooseberries may be served mashed with
sugar and seasoning.
SAUCE OF CHERRIES OR DAMSONS FOR MEATS. To every Ib. of
fruit allow 1-2 Ib of brown sugar and i pint of strong vinegar to
every 7 Ibs. of fruit. Put all into a preserving kettle and simmer
slowly until done. Take the fruit up and lay it on a large dish. Let
the syrup continue to boil until thick, adding some cloves and cin-
namon. Put the fruit in stone jars and pour it over the jars while
hot.
EGO SAUCE. Boil a couple of eggs for 1-4 of an hour. Dip them
in cold water and roll them quickly under your hand to make the
shells come off easily. Cut the yolks by themselves into little 1-2
inch cubes, cut the white of i egg in the same manner. Stir first
the white and the yolk into thinnish butter in the tureen ; or boil
the eggs hard and cut them into small pieces, then put them into
melted uutter.
LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE. Wash the liver of the fowl quite
clean and boil it for 5 minutes, then pound it ui a mortar with a
spoonful of the liquor in which it has been boiled and rub through
a sieve. Take the thin outer rind of a lemon and mince 1-2 tea-
spoonful very fine ; remove the white inner skin of the lemon ; cut
it into thin slices, take out the seed, and then cut the whole into
small squares ; mix the lemon, the rind and the pounded liver into
1-2 pint of good melted butter or white sauce, and serve with the
fowl.
FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER. Simmer very gently t gill of
cider vinegar and i cupful of water (which must be soft), with i on-
ion, 1-2 handful of horseradish, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace and 1-2
teaspoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite tender, chip
it with 2 small fish and set the whole on the fire to boil for a few
minutes with a spoonful of catsup. In the meantime have ready
and well beaten the yolks of 3 fresh eggs; strain them, mix the
liquor by degrees with them, and when all are mixed set the sauce-
pan over a gentle fire, keep a basin in one hand, into which toss the
sauce to and fro and shake the sauce-pan over the fire that the eggs
may not curdle. Don't boil them, only let the sauce be hot enough
to give it the thickness of melted butter.
OLD CURRANT SAUCE FOR VENISON. Boil an ounce of dried cur-
rants in 1-2 pint of water for a few minutes; then add a small tea-
cupful of bread crumbs, 6 cloves, a glass of port wine and a bit of
butter. Stir it until the whole is smooth.
SAUCES. 187
APPLE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE. Pare, core and slice three
large, sound apples, put them into an earthenware jar with two ta-
blespoonfuls of water, cover the jar and put it into a slow oven
for 3-4 of an hour, then add 1-2 teaspoonful sugar and 1-2 oz.
butter; beat with a fork to a light pulp. Serve in a tureen.
TOMATO CATSUP (Aunt H.'s recipe). Take a peck ot ripe to-
matoes; cut them up tolerably fine, put them in a preserving
kettle and boil them very soft; then mash them well and strain
through a sieve. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, black
pepper, pounded cloves and mustard seed to suit the taste. Let
it boil until 1-2 has boiled away. When cold, add a teacupful
of cider vinegar to each bottle before sealing it up, as you would
canned fruit.
A VERY CHOICE CATSUP. Take 1-2 Ib. of anchovies or very
small fish, wash them in 1-2 pint of the purest cider or wine
vinegar; mash them, bones and all, put them into a 1-2 pint of
of the best vinegar and 8 tablespoonfuls of claret, and let it boil
for 15 minutes. Then strain the vinegar to it and put in 1-2 a
pint more of pure vinegar or white wine ; 5 or 6 cloves of shal-
lots, i tablespoonful of powdered white ginger, 1-2 a one of com-
mon pepper, 1-2 one of California pepper all crushed i nut-
meg bruised, a piece of lemon peel, and a few blades of mace ;
put the whole into a stew-pan and let it boil 1-2 an hour, then
pour it off. When perfectly cold bottle it. The bottles should
be entirely dry. Cork well and tie them down closely.
MUSHROOM SAUCE. Wash and pick a large breakfast cupful of
small button mushrooms ; take off the leathery skin ; stew them in
vea! gravy with pepper, cayenne, mace, nutmeg, salt and a piece of
butter roiled in a good deal of flour or arrowroot to thicken, as the
abounding gravy of the mushrooms makes them take a good deal of
thickening. Stew until tender, stirring them now and then, and
pour the sauce over the fowls. Those who like a high relish of
mushrooms may have a spoonful of gravy drawn by salting a few
for a night, or a little mushroom powder.
ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME. Peel 1-2 an orange, removing the
pith, cut it into slices, then into pellets, put them on in a gill of wa-
ter and boil for two minutes, drain them on a sieve, throwing away
the watt r, place in a stew-pan two spoonfuls of broth, when boiling
add the orange, and a little sugar. Simmer ten minutes, skim and
serve; the juice of 1-2 orange, is a great improvement. Also a little
cinnamon may be added.
1 88 PICKLES.
PICKLES.
Small cabbages should be cut in 2 or 4 parts and larger ones
into more divisions. Boil them in salt and water until they be-
come soft enough to be penetrated with a straw, lay them on a
cloth to drain, then lay them on a flat, wide dish and let them
dry, then lay them in clear water for 24 hours, then put them in
the prepared liquid, cut in the branches of cauliflower and pre-
pare them in the same way. Cucumbers and other vegetables
may be pickled in the manner given in recipes.
Pickles may be purchased at as low rates as they can usually
be made at home, and even less, perhaps, yet all housekeepers
who have time and the usual conveniences had better prepare
them for their own domestic use, as they can select and know
that they have the purest vinegars, which should always be used,
as it does not injure the stomach nor impede digestion, as patent
vinegars do. The fruit and vegetables selected should be firm,
sound and not over-ripe. Many of the spices should be used spar-
ingly, as they stimulate the appetite and by insensible degrees de-
stroy the tone of the stomach. Red peppers are opposite in their
qualities to black and white peppers. The two last are powerful
astringents, and consequently impede digestion. The white pepper
is the best quality of black pepper, and is prepared by soaking it in
lime and water and rubbing it between the hands until the dark coats
come off. It is less acrid than the black, and more highly prized as
a seasoning. It is better to buy the grains whole and pound them
at home, and both kinds are often adulterated. Black pepper of a
good quality can be tested by rubbing the corns between the hands.
If they are good they will not be crushed. Dyspeptics should not
use black pepper; it may afford a temporary relief at the expense
of permanent mischief. It is good as a condiment in malarious dis-
tricts, which engender endermic diseases, and serves as an antidote.
Nutmeg should be used cautiously by persons of a paralytic or ap-
oplectic predispositions. They are astringent in their properties.
The superior quality is firm, hard, and has a strong aromatic odor
with a pungent and acrid flavor. Ginger as a condiment is more
wholesome; is anti-spasmodic and carminative in its properties, and
is excellent in allaying thirst. Allspice is a mild and innocent spice,
combining an agreeable variety of flavors.
Horseradish should be fresh when used, as its volatile oil escapes
so rapidly. It can be preserved by burying it in sand. By leaving
with the top about i or 2 inches of the .root it will grow by planting
PICKLES. . 189
it in a moist place, and should be planted on small or large streams
where the moisture will cause it to grow and be always ready for
use.
Mustard, either powdered or not, is good for the digestive or-
gans.
Lemon rind or peel, when dried, used moderately, is a good
digestive for weak and delicate persons. Lemon juice was con-
sidered by the ancients as an antidote for poison, even of the bite of
serpents, and is now essential for culinary purposes, but as antiscor-
butic for seafaring persons it is invaluable. It can be preserved in
bottles for a long time by covering it with a thin stratum of oil. It
is sometimes crystallized and called salts of lemon or citric acid
crystallized. A delightful syrup can be made of it with water, rum
and sugar to taste, or lemonade by adding it to water and sugar.
No one should go to sea without it. It is cooling, grateful and a
sovereign remedy in kidney diseases.
Pickles of flowers, herbs, roots and vegetables in vinegar were
held in high estimation by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and pre-
served by them with the greatest care.
Every housekeeper should have all of her jars labelled and a
wooden spoon always at hand.
A good housekeeper will know how and when to utilize and econ-
omize in the preparation of every dish.
PICKLED PEARS. Twenty pounds of peeled fruit, 7 Ibs. of sugar,
i quart of vinegar ; boil the sugar and vinegar together, put a cou-
ple of cloves in each pear and put them into the sugar and vinegar
with water enough to nearly cover them. When cooked enough re-
uiove the pears to stone jars, and after boiling the pickle for 15 min-
utes longer pour it over them. Examine in a week, and if the pickle
is not sufficiently concentrated remove and boil down again.
MUSTARD PICKLES. Make a paste of pounded white mustard,
some salad oil and some vinegar ; then add to these some powdered
cinnamon, white and cayenne pepper, white ginger, celery seed and
horse radish, all fine, i tablespoonful of brown sugar, and put them
all into a stone jar 2-3 full of vinegar, then set the jar into a kettle
of cold water on the fire, bring it to a boil, and continue it for 2 or
three hours, skimming it now and then. As soon as removed from
the fire stir in with a wooden spoon or fork some tameric and white
mustard. Fill the jars with small cucumbers, gherkins, onions, caul-
iflower, hard white cabbage tops, small, sliced cucumbers, young
parsnips and tender corn. The cinnamon can be omitted if liked, as it
makes the color darker.
NOTE When the vegetables are used others can be added, or you
may take dwarf cabbages, quarter them, then simmer them in brine
190 . PICKLES.
till you can pierce them with a straw, then dry them on a cloth for
twenty-four hours to absorb the moisture, then drop them into the
liquid.
RKD CURKANT PICKLES. Pick them before they are quite ripe
and put them in a well covered jar filled with a brine of salt and
water. When the pickles begin to ferment change the brine ;
then lay them for a night in clear water, then make a spiced liquor
with sugar and spices boiled in the vinegar, as in cherry pickles ;
when cold pour over your currants and close tightly.
BAKBERRY PICKLES. Gather full, fine clusters of the berries be-
'fore ripe, pick away the dead leaves and detective berries and pre-
serve them as red currants.
SWEKT PICKLE (Peaches, Damsons or Tomatoes.) Mrs. W.,
Va. Peel your tomatoes or peaches, take the stones from them or
not, cut off the stem end (a very little of which will make the pickle
bitter; even one will spoil ajar of pickles), if damsons, or plums or.
grapes, prick them with a fine needle and allow to each pound of
fruit a cupful (1-2 pint) of vinegar, 1-2 pound of sugar, a teaspoon-
ful of cloves, a few blades of mace and cinnamon. J'ut your fruit
in a jar which can be covered closely, then put the vinegar, sugar
and spices on to boil, then pour all over the fruit and cover closely.
Let remain 24 hours ; repeat the scalding in the same vinegar and
let it remain on the fruit another 24 hours, then put the whole on to-
gether and boil until the damsons, plums or grapes burst open, or
the peaches or tomatoes are easily pierced with a straw and the
syrup thickens a little.
OLD DOMINION CHOW CHOW. Take 2 gallons of nice green to-
matoes, add 4 good sized onions, 6 or 7 peppers with the seeds taken
out, chop together and boil 3 minutes in 5 quarts of good cider vin-
egar, throw this vinegar away after straining, then to i gallon of cider
vinegar when scalding hot add 3 cups sugar, one of mixed mus-
tard, one table-spoonful of cloves, i of allspice, 2 of cinnamon, 3
or 4 blades* of mace, i cupful of chopped horseradish, and 3
spoonfuls of salad oil ; pour hot over the tomatoes.
CHOW CHOW (splendid.) One-half gallon sliced green tomatoes,
3 cups of chopped onions, i pint of chopped green peppers, i cup
of white mustard seeds, i cup of coriander seeds, all chopped fine,
2-3 cup of salt. Cover over in a jar with cold fruit vinegar. The
longer you keep it the better it is.
PICKLED EGGS. Boil a dozen eggs until done and quite hard,
then put them in a vessel of cold water in order to remove the shells
with ease and prevent them being broken ; then have a stone or
earthen jar just large enough to hold them within an inch or two
of the top. Put them in the jar carefully, prepare a liquor of
PICKLES.
the purest and best vinegar (white wine), say a quart or more,
by boiling gently, spice with 4 blades of mace, 3-4 of an ounce
of black or white pepper, 3-4 of an oz. of allspice, i oz. of white
ginger, 3-4 oz. mustard (white) seed, and 4 cloves of garlic.
When the spiced liquor has simmered for 3 minutes, take it up
and pour slowly into the jar, observing that the eggs are fully
covered with the liquor. When cold, stop it tightly for use ;
which will be in the course of a month, or five weeks. When
traveling, they are nice with cold viands as a lunch, affording a
fine relish ; when quartered they are a nice garnish to dishes of cold
meats of any kind.
SWEET PICKLED CABBAGE. Cut the cabbage fine and scald it in a
brine made of i cup of salt and j quart of water; let it remain a
day and night ; squeeze it out and put in good cider vinegar with
1 oz. of cinnamon, i oz. of mace, i oz. nutmeg, i 1-2 Ibs. sugar and
1-2 gallon cider vinegar.
ONION PICKLES. Take 1-2 Ib. of crushed ginger, 1-2 of white
mustard, 1-2 Ib. salt, 4 oz. white mustard seed, whole, 2 oz. black or
white pepper ground, 1-2 oz. cayenne pepper, 1-4 Ib. of tameric to
2 gallons of good cider or pear vinegar. Then have ready a large
jar with a tightly fitted top, put in your onions, sliced cucumbers (or
cut an inch and a half long), cauliflowers, celery seeds, gherkins,
green tomatoes, green radish pods, nasturtiums, martinas and small
green chilis. Reserve enough vinegar to mix the various powders
to a well-worked paste, so that no lumps remain, then pour the vin-
egar into the jar over the fruit, then add the thoroughly prepared
spice mixture. Keep the jar in a warm place and stir up well every
morning tor a month with a wooden spoon ; or the liquor can be
prepared and kept as directed, and the different vegetables can be
added at pleasure, as they come in season, gathered on a dry morn-
ing, wiping them with a dry cloth to remove the dust and moisture.
The cauliflower must be divided into small bunches. When the jars
are full, and it is no longer needful to stir them, close the jar firmly
with a bladder or waxed cloth, over the mouth. Pickles prepared
in this way will be good at the end of the year. While it is im-
portant to stir the pickles every morning, it is best to keep a wooden
spoon always convenient.
SWEET PICKLED RIPE CUCUMBERS. Take ripe cucumbers before
they grow soft or have an unpleasant smell, slice lengthwise, so as
to be clear of seeds ; scald for half a day in salt water ; pour that
off and rinse in warm water. Take a pint of sugar to a quart of
good cider vinegar, flavored with spice, clove, cinnamon, ginger and
allspice to the taste ; scald the fruit once a day for several consecu-
tive days by pouring the boiling liquor over it. Be careful not to put
them in an iron vessel, which will turn them dark.
192 PICKLES.
GREEN CUCUMBER PICKLES. Make a brine by putting 2 pints of
rock salt into 2 gallons of boiling water and pour it over the cucum-
bers ; cover tight to keep in the steam, and let them remain all night
and part of a day ; make a second brine as above, and let them re-
main the same length of time ; then scald and skim the brine, as it
will answer for the third time, and let them remain in it, as above ;
then rinse and wipe them dry, and add boiling hot vinegar; throw
in a lump of alum as large as a nutmeg to every two gallons of
pickles, and you will have a fine, hard and green pickle. Add spices
if you like and keep the pickles under the vinegar. A weight on the
top of the cover, which keeps the pickles under, has a tendency to
collect the scum, which may rise.
SWEET TOMATO PICKLES. Take 5 onions, 5 green peppers or
chilis, sprinkle them over with a teacup of salt and let them stand
during a night, then drain the water from them, adding to them one
cup or more of sugar (if desired), i cup of grated horseradish, i 1-2
tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, i spoonful of cloves, 3-4 of allspice, i
tablespoonful of white ginger ; more than cover with strong cider
vinegar and cook until tender, with 2 gallons of sliced green toma-
toes. Put in bottles.
SWEET GREEN TOMATO PICKLES Peel and slice 2 gallons of
green tomatoes, 3 gallons of whole mustard seed, 5 tablespoonfuls
black pepper, 2 of ground cinnamon, i spoonful whole cloves, i of
brown sugar and 3 gills of good vinegar. Boil until quite tender.
PICKLED CABBAGE. Chop up, as for slaw, sprinkle with salt and
let stand for a day and night ; drain on a cloth to absorb the moisture.
Put it into a jar with alternate layers of white mustard between and
fill with cold vinegar.
FAVORITE PICKLES. One quart raw cabbage chopped fine, i of
boiled beets chopped fine, 2 cups sugar, tablespoonful salt, i tea-
spoonful black pepper, 1-4 teaspoonful red pepper and teacup of
grated horseradish ; cover with cold vinegar cover very closely, to
exclude the air entirely.
CAULIFLOWER PICKLES. Take firm cauliflowers before they are
quite ripe and cutaway the bark of the stems and all the green leaves.
Scald them for four minutes in a pan of boiling salt brine, and then
drain and dry thoroughly, which will require at least 24 hours ; when
dry pull them into perfectly-sized branches, cutting the stalks smoothly
and pack them in jars with some pickle liquor, as directed for yel-
low pickled cabbage, or color them with red beets in the liquor.
YEAST. 193
YEAST.
YEAST POWDERS, OUR MOTHER'S. Baking soda 6 ounces, cream
of tartar 8 ounces ; be particular that the materials are perfectly
pure and dry. Then mix thoroughly and keep dry in a well corked
bottle or tightly covered box. You need nothing further.
YEAST WITHOUT HOPS. Boil i pound of flour, 4 ounces brown
sugar, a pinch of salt in 2 gallons of water for one hour. When
lukewarm bottle and cork closely. In 24 hours you can use it ;
wetting your flour with it.
To REMOVE THE BITTER QUALITY FROM YEAST. Bake a small
piece of bread quite black and drop into the yeast ; or, if it is
very bitter put a small quantity of bran into a sieve (small) and
strain the yeast through ; or pour some cold water over the yeast
some time before you require it ; the yeast will sink and the bitter
remain in the water, which pour off. This will apply to both leav-
en and liquid yeast. These remedies have never been known to
fail.
To CHOOSE HOPS. Put them between your fingers ; good hops
will feel gelatinous and have a fragrant smell and develop a fine yel-
low dust.
YEAST THAT WILL NOT SOUR. (Mrs. Adams.) Boil 2 ounces of
hops in 2 quarts of water, put in a jar i cup of brown sugar, strain
the hops into the jar, add i cup of flour stirred smooth, let it stand
in a warm place till it ferments, stir in 6 boiled and mashed potatoes
and i cup of salt.
To MAKE YEAST FOR BREAD. One and one-half ounces of hops,
3 quarts of water, i pound of bruised malt, 1-2 pint of yeast. Boil
the hops in the water for 20 minutes, let it stand for about 5 min-
utes, then add it to i pound of bruised malt prepared as for brewing.
LeUhe mixture stand covered till about lukewarm, then put in not
quite 1-2 pint of yeast; keep it warm and let it work 3 or 4 hours,
then put it into small 1-2 pint bottles (ginger beer bottles are the
best for the purpose), cork them well and tie them down. The
yeast is now ready for use ; it will keep good for a few weeks,
and one bottle will be found sufficient for 18 pounds of flour.
When required for use boil 3 pounds of potatoes with salt, mash
them in the same water (they should have been peeled) in which
they were boiled, and rub them through a colander; stir in about
1-2 Ib. of flour, then put in the yeast, pour it into a hole in the middle
of the flour and let it stand warm on the hearth all night, and in the
morning let it be quite warm when kneaded. The bottles of yeast
require very careful opening, as it is generally exceedingly ripe ; 20
194 YEAST.
minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work 4 or 5 hours;
1-2 pint sufficient for 18 pounds of flour.
KIRKKESTHAM YEAST. Two ounces of hops, 4 quarts of water,
1-2 pound of flour, 1-2 pint of yeast. Boil the hops and water for
20 minutes, strain and mix with the liquid 1-2 pound of flour and
not quite 1-2 pint of yeast. Bottle it up and tie the corks down.
When wanted for use boil potatoes according to the quantity of bread
to be made (about 3 pounds are sufficient for about a peck of flour) ;
wash them and add to them 1-2 pound of flour and mix about 1-2
pint of the yeast with them ; let the mixture stand all day and lay
the bread to rise the night before it is wanted. Twenty minutes to
boil the hops and water ; 1-2 pint of this yeast is sufficient for a peck
of flour or rather more.
To EXTRACT BITTER FROM YEAST. Beat it up with a white of an
egg, add a double quantity of water, beat all well together, cover it,
let it stand all night and pour off the water, when it will be sweet.
One egg is sufficient for a quart of yeast.
Miss BETSY'S YEAST. At 4 o'clock a. m. stir a cup of flour in i
pint of water luke warm ; a little salt ; set it by the fire to rise and
stir it often ; when it is very light it is ready for use, and will make
2 loaves of bread very light for tea.
BAKER'S YEAST. Put i dozen large potatoes and a large handful
of hops in a pan to boil ; don't peal the potatoes ; wash them clean ;
when they are soft put i pint of flour in a jar, put the potatoes in
the flour, and then the hops boiling hot, mash them all together and
roll in a ball. Put aside until cold, and the water the potatoes were
boiled in. When both are cold work them together and let it
rise to the top and then fall. After it falls it is ready for use ; stir it
well and strain it. Does not increase by rising.
To MAKE GOOD YEAST. Four good-sized potatoes, and boil in i
gallon of water together with as much hops as you can grasp in your
hand, placing the hops in a thin cloth and tie them up. When boiled
take the potatoes and mash them ; add i cup salt, i cup sugar; mix
thoroughly, adding the hot water in which the potatoes and hops were
boiled ; let it stand until cool, then add i pint of baker's yeast, let
it stand until fermented. Put in a jug and cork tight and keep cool,
When the jug is nearly empty it can be filled again by this process,
thus keeping a constant supply. One pint of the yeast is sufficient
for a baking for a moderate sized family.
BAKING POWDERS. Tartaric acid 4 1-2 ounces, arrow root or nee
flour 5 ounces ; mix.
FAMILY YEAST. Thicken 2 quarts of water with fine flour (three
teaspoonfuls),boil 1-2 hour, sweeten with 1-2 pound of brown sugar,
when near cold put into it 4 spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, shake
YKAST. 195
it well together and let it stand i day to ferment near the fire with-
out being covered. There will be a thin liquor on the top, which
must be poured off. Shake the remainder and cork it up for use.
Take always 4 spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity,
keeping it always in succession ; 2 pounds loaf will require about
a gill.
ANOTHER WAY. Boil i pound of potatoes to a mash; when 1-2
cold add i cup of yeast and mix it well. It will be ready for use in
2 or 3 hours and keep well. Use double the quantity of this to what
you do of beer yeast. To take off the bitter of yeast put beer into
a sieve and pour it through, having first mixed a little warm water
with it.
DOMESTIC YEAST. Have ready in a kettle over a fire 2 quarts
of boiling water, throw in a large handful of hops as fresh as possi-
ble, either ripe or green, (or even the green leaves will do,) and let
the water continue to boil with the hops in it for 25 minutes or more,
then have in a bowl or pan 6 cups of sifted flour. Strain the liquor
through a cloth from the hops into another bowl and pour it hot over
the flour (about 1-2 of it.) Squeeze the bag well, stir the hop liquor
and the flour to a smooth paste or batter, let the other half of the
liquor remain till cool, then pour it gradually to the rest, stirring all
the time. Then take 1-2 pint of baker's or brewer's yeast, let it be
fresh and strong, stir this yeast into the hop water and flour, pour it
directly into your jug slightly corked till it ceases to ferment, which
should be i hour, when it will be fit for use. Cork tightly and keep
in a cool place. If kept in a bottle it will improve by adding a raisin
into each bottle before you pour in your yeast. Into a stone jug
put 6 or 7. In preparing new yeast, if sour, old yeast should never
be used. All yeast is better and more powerful for being fresh. In
the country yeast should be made often. In towns and cities it
can be obtained every day. Sweet cakes, rusks, &c., require stronger
and fresher yeast than bread, otherwise the sugar will impede their
rising. The foregoing recipe is invaluable in the making of home-
made bread. Before making new yeast the old should be removed,
and the bottles and jugs purified by washing and leaving a little earth
or salsoda in them for a while, and then thoroughly rinsed.
PEACH LEAF YEAST. Take 3 large leaves and 3 medium sized
Irish potatoes, boil them in 2 quarts of water ; when the potatoes are
done take out the leaves and throw them away ; peel the potatoes
and mash them up while hot in i pint of flour, adding sufficient water
to make it a paste, then pour on the hot peach leaf tea and scald for
5 minutes ; add 1-2 cupful of old yeast and it will be ready for use in
a few hours.
YEAST MADE Of THE LEAVES OF THE BASKET WILLOW. In the
same way that hops is made; is better than when made of hops.
196 YEAST.
BREAD, WILLOW. The leaves of our common basket willow makes
an excellent yeast or leaven for light bread when treated as hops.
It mixes much quicker than hops ; in 1-2 the time ; imparts none of
that disagreeable hop flavor which is so objectionable to many. In-
deed, it makes better bread every way. The willow is a most health-
ful tonic. Is used as potent against ague in malarious districts.
Simply use a very weak tea made of these leaves to a quart of boil-
ing water.
YEAST THAT WILL KEEP 3 MONTHS. (N. Y. T.) In the hottest
weather and much longer in cold, and never become sour. The
flour should be thoroughly dried by the fire ; stirred up often before
made into a sponge, an important item of which ma^ny farmer's
wives are ignorant. The sponge or dough should be set at noon,
mixed at night and moulded next morning ; stirring the sponge after
it begins to ferment makes it white.
RECIPE. One quart of hops put lightly in a cup, i quart of pota-
toes peeled and sliced, i pint of corn browned like coffee ; put the
hops in the small bag, add 3 quarts of boiling water, boil 2 hours.
Strain through a colander, add i cup of white sugar, 1-2 cup of salt
and water to make 5 quarts of the mixture. When luke warm add
i pint of the same kind of yeast to ferment it. If that is not at hand,
use potato yeast without meal or flour, as that might sour after a
while; 1-2 a cup is enough for a baking, large and small. The yeast
must be made in tin or porcelain. Set it about 24 hours in a warm
room, then bottle or cork tightly and keep in a cool room; 1-2 the
ingredients will do for a small family.
MRS. GEN. R. E. LEE'S YEAST. Boil 6 Irish potatoes and ahand-
fbl of hops in 2 quarts of water, when cooked wash the potatoes,
strain the hop tea and mix with the potatoes, thicken with 1-2 pint
of flour, return all to the kettle and bring to the boiling point ; add a
heaping tablespoonful of salt and set the proportion with 1-2 pint of
yeast. This will keep good one week in a cool place.
BUTTERMILK YEAST. One quart of buttermilk, 2 teaspoonfuls of
sugar, i quart of meal, 1-2 cupful of hop yeast, set to rise 8 hours,
then stir in i quart of corn meal, make it out in thin cakes and dry
them in a cool, airy place. Use one quart of flour to each cake.
MRS. JANSON'S YEAST. Mash 3 moderate sized Irish potatoes,
boiled with the skins on with a good pinch of hops, when done
mash with the skins on, then put back into the liquid in which
they were boiled with 2 cups of flour, then pour it through a
sieve, still stirring it over the flour, and let it stand till luke warm,
then stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, i heaped tablespoon-
ful of salt, add a little brewer's or domestic yeast, as convenient.
Let stand over night to ferment, place in a jar kept closely cov-
ered ; allow 4 tablespoonfuls of yeast to one pound of flour.
YKAST. I 97
IRISH POTATO YEAST. (Mrs. R. S. Robertson.) Grate a well
mashed, peeled and large Irish potato or 2 medium sized ones,
put the grated potato into a tin or porcelain pan, pour over boil-
ing water, stirring while doing so till it becomes a thick starch,
and also adding at the same time more than half a cupful of loaf
or white sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of salt ; boil it till done like
starch. When cold bottle and stop it well. In making up the bread
allow i cup of yeast to every 4 cups of flour ; work the dough well,
set to rise the same night in a warm place. In the morning work it
well and put it in a slightly greased pan to rise again in an oven just
warm, not hot, as that would ruin the bread and make it sour, then
bake it slowly. If you make up the bread with milk instead of wa-
ter and with a little butter or sweet lard, it makes it much better.
Either way it is sweet and wholesome.
N. B. If the yeast sours sweeten it with sugar and never with
soda, as that spoils the bread, Always save half a teaspoonful of
the old yeast to put into the new. It is better to make the yeast of-
ten, and not use it when it gets too stale.
POTATO YEAST (Contributed in the great American Dessert by
Mrs. Belle Greg'g, Cole County, 111.) Six common sized Irish pota-
toes peeled and boiled till quite soft, leave water enough to cover
them, mash very fine while hot, then stir in enough flour to make
a batter, set off to cool, till just blood warm, then add i table-
spoonful of salt, i tablespoonful of sugar, then add i cup of hop
yeast. Set in a cool place; for 4 loaves use i spoonful.
MILK YEAST. To i pint of milk allow i teaspoonful of salt and
a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, keep it luke-warm by a fire ; in i
hour it will be fit for use ; rise twice as much as common yeast. If
sour add a teaspoonful of salt to a pint of yeast when used. If it
foams lively it will raise the bread, if not, throw it away. Never keep
yeast in tin. This is made for immediate use. It is convenient for
loaf bread or biscuits when one wishes to make them up in haste.
QUICK YEAST MADE WITH MILK. Take a cupful of milk and 2
large spoonfuls of flour and stir them together; set it near the fire
and let it rise i hour. This quantity will make t gallon of flour in
good bread.
MAGIC YEAST. Twelve hours before you wish to use it stir one
tablespoonful of brown sugar, 2 of flour and 3 of water together
and add a small piece of leaven or i spoonful of hop yeast to make
it rise. Use 2 tablespoonfuls of this to i quart of flour, let the yeast
remain in a jar, and before it is all used add the flour, sugar and wa-
ter, as at first, and you will always have nice, fresh yeast that makes
beautiful bread. Keep 2 jars, and occasionally change them, so you
can have it sweet and fresh.
198 YEAST.
FLOUR YEAST. Mix 1-2 pint of flour with i pint of cold water,
put it into a sauce pan and make it into a thick paste, stirring it all
the time, then pour it into a bowl and stir in i cup of hop yeast,
dessert spoonful of sugar and i of salt, and set it to rise.
MRS. S.'s YEAST. Monday a. m. boil 2 ounces of good hops
.in a gallon of water for 1-2 hour. Strain it and let the liquor
cool down to the warmth of new milk, then put in a handful of
salt and 1-2 Ib. of sugar, stir i Ib of family flour with a little of
the hop tea and let it stand till Wednesday, boil 3 Ibs. of Irish
potatoes, mash them fine and stir in. The next day strain it and
put it in jugs or bottles, keep in a cool place and it will be good for
2 months. The last is generally the best. Always keep in a warm
place. When it is made stir often.
HOP YEAST. The night before boil a large handful of hops in 2
quarts of water until it is a very strong tea, strain it in a jar with a
pint of flour and stir it till very smooth : when cool put in a gill of
yeast and set it in a warm place till light, and then stop tightly. Al-
ways make fresh yeast before all you have is used, so you can have
some to set the new with.
SIMPLE YEAST. Stir a pint of flour in aquart of luke-warm water,
put in a teaspoonful of salt and i cup of brown sugar and one of
yeast; put it to rise, ail when well risen keep it in a cool place.
DRY YEAST CAKES. (Mrs. Mary Parker.) Make a strong tea
of hops and thicken with flour ; when fermented stir in as much
corn meal as yon can make into cakes as large and thick as a small
cracker and dry in a dish in the shade; when used dissolve 1-3 of
i in a half cup of water for i quart of flour.
NOTE This yeast or leaven will keep for 6 months.
YEAST CAKES. Take some hop yeast when fresh and thicken it
with meal or flour till very stiff, roll them out and cut in thin, small
cakes and dry in the sun, soak them in milk an hour before you want
to make bread ; use i cake the size of the top of a* common tumbler
to i quart of flour. Be careful in winter not to let them freeze, but
keep them in a paper bag in a dry place.
YEAST FOR CAKES OF LEAVEN. Put a large handful of hops in a
pot with 3 quarts of boiling water and 3 Irish potatoes, let it boil
tolerably strong to 1-2 gallon, strain it boiling hot over 1-2 gallon of
sifted flour, stir it well, and when cool add 1-2 pint of yeast or one
yeast cake, and put it in a bucket to rise ; when light and porous,
before it begins to fall, make it in small, thin cakes with corn meal,
put them on a board to dry, put them in a thin bag and hang them
in a cool and very dry place. In warm weather use i of the cakes
to i quart of flour for bread, rolls or buckwheat cakes. These can
be used, and are less troublesome and more economical, as they
will keep for several months.
BREAD-MAKING. 199
BREAD-MAKING.
The following observations on bread-making are extracted from a
valuable work on that subject and may be found very useful to
housekeepers :
The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the ut-
most cleanliness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all
ingredients used for it, and, in addition to these, there must be at-
tention and care through the whole process.
An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made
and allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most
common causes of failure are using yeast no longer sweet, which has
been frozen, or has had hot liquor poured over it.
Too small a proportion of yeast or insufficient time allowed for
dough to rise will cause the bread to be heavy. Heavy bread will
also most likely be the result of making dough very hard and letting
it become quite cold, particularly in winter.
If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork Itself,
that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has
reached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the
consequence in warm weather and bad bread in any weather. The
goodness will also be endangered by placing it so near a fire or
stove as to make any part of it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle
and equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation.
Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only injure the flavor of
the bread, but, in sultry weather, will often cause it to be quite un-
eatable, yet, if milk or butter be fresh and good, its quality will ma-
terially improve. But the acidity of the milk can be neutralized with
a little soda, and the quality of the butter sweetened by boiling it
very gently with sippets of bread in it, which will absorb its rancid-
ity and leave the butter sweet.
To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should be
placed in a clean earthen jar, with a cover on it ; this pan should be
placed a little distance from the ground to allow a current of air to
pass underneath it. Some prefer it to be kept in a box lined with
zinc; other persons, on clean wooden shelves without being cov-
ered, so that the crust may not soften. Stale bread may be freshened
by warming it through in a gently heated oven. Stale pastry, cakes,
etc., may also be improved by this method.
2QO BRF.AD-MAKING.
The utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, are
a kneading trough or pan sufficiently large so that the dough may
be kneaded freely without throwing the flour over the edges, and
also for its rising, a hair sieve for straining yeast and one or two
strong spoons.
Yeast must always be good of its kind and in a fitting state to
produce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or
ale produces more effect than that of milder kinds, and the fresher
the yeast, the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough.
As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather
quick, and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without
hardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after
the bread is put in until, the dough is set or has become firm, as the
cool air admitted will have an unfavorable effect on it.
Stoves bake bread admirably, as they can always be brought to
the required temperature when it is higher than is needed by leaving
the doors open for a time.
A FEW HINTS ON THE MAKING AND BAKING OF
CAKES.
The currants to be used should be carefully washed, picked, dried
in a cloth, and then closely examined to see that no pieces of grit or
stone are left among them. They should then be laid in a dish be-
fore the fire or stove to become thoroughly dry, as the cakes will be
liable to be heavy if added when they are damp to the other ingre-
dients. The butter and sugar should be beaten together for a very
long time, until the mass has the appearance and consistency of ice
cream. The eggs should be broken into a cup the whites and yolks
separately. They should always be strained. Breaking the eggs
thus, the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others,
and consequently there will be no waste. Beat or whisk the yolks
until all the large bubbles disappear, then stir it into the butter and
sugar, when the flour or the crumbs should next be stirred in well and
thoroughly, (bread crumbs are better than flour as they are already
cooked and are more digestible) and if milk is used it should then be
added. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be thoroughly
whisked. When they are thick enough to carry the drop that falls from
the whisk they are sufficiently beaten ; then stir in the currants and
add the beaten eggs, stirring while adding, and next the flouror bread
crumbs, and lastly of all, the baking powder, if used. Stir this mix-
ture well and bake in a moderate oven, (some housekeepers rub
the butter into the flour, then add the sugar, currants and alspice,)
HINTS ON MAKING AND BAKING CAKES. 2OI
warm the milk, stir in it the yeast, and mix the whole into a dough,
and after kueading it well put it into buttered tins, or better, in tins
dredged with fine dry bread crumbs, after wiping the butter off,
then let it rise for nearly an hour before baking. The loaf sugar
should be well pounded, and then sifted through a fine sieve. Less
butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed with the
other ingredients.
Good butter should always be used in making cakes. It saves
much time and labor to warm, but not melt it, before beating, if
beaten to a cream.
The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large
cakes. If the heat of the oven is not tolerably quick, the batter
will not rise. If the oven is too fierce, and there is any danger of
the cake burning or catching, put apiece of clean paper over the
top. Paper that has been printed on or newspaper should never be
used for this purpose.
To prevent bread or cake or anything from burning at the bottom
of the stove, set the cake-pan on a stove-top or on pieces of iron to
prevent its touching the bottom of the stove, or set a vessel or pan
of water on the top grate and nothing will burn when the water is in
it as the steam prevents it; when sufficiently done and you wish to
brown it, you can remove the pan of water.
To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, pierce it with a straw
or plunge a clean knife into the middle of it ; draw it quickly out,
and if it looks the least sticky put the cake back and close the oven
until it is done.
Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or glass jars in a dry
place, or it the cake be not iced put it in a barrel of brown sugar
and place some of the sugar over it. Cakes made with yeast do
not keep so light as though made without it.
Panification or bread-making consists of adding one-half or little
more of water to the flour and yeast or some leaven matter made of
malt and hops. But in different countries different fermenting mat-
ter or leaven is used. In the West Indies the refuse of the distilla-
tion of rum or "dunder,'' and in the East Indies the liquor which
flows by making art incision in the palm tree, called "toddy" or
palm wine. The dough is then worked, and the yeast produces fer-
mentation or "rising," the dough again acting upon the leavening
principle, the starch of the flour is converfed into sacharine matter.
This is again transformed into alcohol and carbonic acid. The escape
of the caibonic acid in little bubbles, produced by fermentation, is
prevented by the gluten of the dough, and this causes the little holes
which are seen in leaven or light bread. The bread to be digestable
and nice must be made of good and fresh yeast ; when made of
2O2 HINTS ON MAKING AND BAKING CAKES.
stale yeast the bread has a sour and disagreeable flavor; inferior
yeast powders, imperfect fermentation and heavy, indigestable bread.
In families, the night before the bread is wanted for breakfast,
the dough is well kneaded. The kneaded dough is wrapped up or
kept at a moderate, even temperature and left to stand until morn-
ing. When it has risen it is worked over again, divided into loaves
or rolls and then put into an oven just warm, and then left to rise
again. The water evaporating, the loaves will swell up and a yellow
crust will begin to form upon the top. In opening the door of the
stove or oven, you are met by steam which quickly passes away.
The bread is, in all probability, sufficiently baked, or if the crumb is
elastic and rises again after being pressed down with the finger,
and if the bottom crust is hard and resonant when thumped with
the fingers, the bread is sufficiently baked. Bread, if properly made
and kept in a cool place, ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at
the expiration of three or four days. It should be at least twenty-
four hours old before eaten. The stomach that much-injured mem-
ber of the human body has hard work to digest new bread and
hot rolls swimming in butter, for these articles, when taken out of
the oven, are full of moisture; the starch is held together in masses
and the bread, instead of being crusted so as to expose each grain
of starch to the saliva, actually prevents their digestion by being
worked by the teeth into a tough, waxy mass, which lies on the
stomach like so much lead.
MAKING BREAD. One teaspoonful of soda, 2 of cream of tartar
to 3 pints of flour.
INDIAN BREAD (Mrs. Randolph). Take 2 cups of corn (or In-
dian meal) and work into it a lump of butter the size of an egg,
make it up thin with milk and stir in the yolks of two eggs ; set it
to rise. Just before breakfast bake it in small pans or in one large
one. Observe to grease them.
MRS. SANDERSON'S CORN BREAD. One quart of good sweet
milk, 4 eggs, 2 pints of white corn meal, i spoonful of cooked rice,
5 spoonfuls of melted butter, some salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of soda.
VIRGINIA CORN BREAD FOR DINNER. Take 1-2 gallon of corn
(white) meal and make it up with cold water (if desired, add some
salt) ; then bake it brown. The meal is superior and, of course,
the bread will be good.
VIRGINIA CORN BREAD. Dissolve i tablespoonful of butter in
3 1-2 pints of boiling milk ; into this scald i quart of Indian meal ;
when cool, ad'l 1-2 pint of wheat flour, a little sugar, i teaspoonful
of salt and 2 eggs well beaten ; mix well together and bake in two
cakes. The tins should be well greased or buttered.
CORN MEAL BREAD. Beat 2 eggs very light and mix them with
HINTS ON MAKING AND BAKING CAKES. 2O3
i pint of sour milk ; add i teaspoonful of soda and stir in i pint of
meal and i tablespoonful of melted butter ; beat it well and bake in
a quick oven.
COLD CORN BREAD. Loaves of cold corn bread can be put into
the pot of bacon while boiling for a few minutes before dinner, and
when soaked, serve in a dish with the top of the boiling liquor poured
over it. Old persons, especially, relish it.
MRS. BASS' CORN BREAD. Two eggs, 1-2 pint of cream or sweet
milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, i of soda or 2 teaspoonfuls
of baking powder, i cup of wheat flour, i cup of corn meal. Mix
and stir the batter well for 10 or 15 minutes. Bake i hour.
ST. CHARLES, N. O., CORN BREAD. Two eggs beaten very light,
mixed with i pint of sour milk or buttermilk and i pint of bolted or
very fine meal and 1-2 cupful of melted butter, i tablespoonful soda
dissolved in sour milk or eggs. Bake in a quick oven.
INDIAN BREAD OR PONE. Two gallons of corn meal, i cupful of
flour, i large tablespoonful of salt, 4 cups of warm water, 2 cups of
yeast (fresh and strong) ; put the meal and flour in a tray together
and mix them well. Make a hole in the center, then mix the yeast
and water and pour it into the hole in the meal ; take a spoon and
stir it with the meal near the center till it forms a smooth batter ;
then strew the flour over the surface, thinly, so as to cover the whole
of the dough, warm a cloth and lay it over the tray or pan. In
winter set it before the fire to rise and in a warm place in the sum-
mer. When it has risen so that the surface is cracked, throw over
the salt and work the dough ; if too stiff, add a little warm water,
which should be at hand ; then knead it for thirty minutes,- putting
flour over the mass, and let it remain /ully half an hour. Cover it
and set to rise again ; put the dough in a floured pasteboard and
divide it into two loaves. Have your oven ready, put in the loaves
directly and bake for two hours. Corn bread requires longer baking
than wheat bread When done, wrap the loaf up in a coarse, clean
moist towel and stand it in a cool place. The moisture from the
towel prevents the crust from hardening too much while it is cooling.
Corn bread is always best when fresh. If the dough becomes sour,
sprinkle over it a little warm water in which a teaspoonful of soda
or salaratus has been dissolved. Take care that you don't put too
much alkaline substance in the bread. Corn meal should not be
bought in large quantities, for it soon spoils. Keep it in a bin if you
can, in a cool place.
LEAF CORN BREAD. Prepare the wood-fire as for baking ash
cake, then make the dough in the same way. After the ashes have
been opened spread a large cabbage leaf or more on the hearth ;
mould your corn dough into a cake with your hands, but not so
2O4 HINTS ON MAKING AND RAKING CAKES.
large as to come to the edges of the leaf. Then wet your hand in
cold water quickly and flatten the leaf. Put two or three large cab-
bage leaves over it. Secure the edges by pressing them down so
closely that no ashes can enter, then put on some moderately warm
ashes, then the hot, and finally the coals, and bake slowly. To find
out if done, carefully i emove the ashes, but do not disturb the leaves,
strike the loaf with a stick ; if it is not a dead sound, the bread is
done. Carefully pull it out by putting the poker at the back of the
bread and carefully remove the leaves, and if done properly the loaf
will be perfectly clean and sweet. Eat with butter. It will be found
excellent for persons taking pleasure excursions and- while camping
out, from the romance of preparing one's own bread and having it
hot when away from home. Wheat bread can be prepared in the
same way. If managed rightly it will have a hard crust. No cleaner,
sweeter or better bread can be made. It should be eaten hot. It
is good with sweet or buttermilk.
JOURNEY OR JOHNNY CAKE. Make a good wood fire. Have a
clean white board with a long handle to rest it against. Make up a
dough of meal and water, a little salt, then have your board a little
hot. Put the well-kneaded dough, formed with the hands into a
cake, on the board and flatten it with the hands ; then place the
board, not upright, before the fire, the handle supported against
something. Keep turning the board around, if baked in one place,
until it is done. The head of a flour barrel or a piece of it will do
to bake upon by placing a flat-iron behind it, so as not to let it set
up straight, but slant a little. The ash cake, the hoe cake and the
Johnny cake can be conveniently made when camping out. The
meal should be sweet and good in order that the bread may be so.
W'hite corn meal is sweeter, while the yellow corn meal is richer and
stronger.
ASH CAKE OR LEAF BREAD. Make up the required amount of corn
meal with water and salt or sweet milk; knead it well, then have a hot
hearth with enough ashes and coals ol wood, open the ashes, leave a
clean space, or the ashes may be swept away with a broom for the pur-
pose Then put in the dough after having moulded it into a nice
form with -your hands, then wet your hands with cold water and
smooth the dough ; let it remain a moment to dry, then cover it up
gradually with ashes entirely free from coals ; when of sufficient
depth put on some embers, then the coals. When done on the
upper side and not on the under, turn it over and bake the under
side ; but if the hearth is sufficiently hot this will not be the case.
Then take it out and wash with a clean rag in cold water. Eat
with butter while hot. No bread can equal it to eat with butter or
sweet milk. All the sweetness remains with the bread. To tell
HINTS :>N* MAKING AND CAKING CAKES. 2C>5
when bread is done, thump it with your fingers. If the sound is
hollow, it is done. This applies to all kinds of bread. Wheat bread
can be made in the same way.
CALIFORNIA JOHNNY CAKE. Three pints of good corn meal, i
pint of molasses, i cupful of butter, i teaspoonful of ground ginger,
some boiling water or milk; rub the butter, meal and a little salt to-
gether, then gradually add the molasses, ginger and boiling water to
make a soft dough. It must be thoroughly worked with an iron
spoon. Then grease the board with a little lard or fresh butter;
spread a dough thinkly on it and- stand it nearly upright before the
fire by placing a flat-iron or stone at the back of it. Do not let the
edges bake while the inside is raw. Cut into pieces and send it to
the table hot ; split and butter them. In baking place the board a
little slanting before the hottest part of the fire.
MADAME GETZ' LUCAS CORN BREAD FOR DINNER. For 2 loaves,
take 5 cupfuls corn meal, 3 cups of flour, sifted together, 5 cups of
sweet milk, 2 cups of sour milk, i 1-2 teaspoonfuls salaratus. Bake
two hours.
CORN HOECAKE. Take newly-ground white corn meal, add a lit-
tle salt and milk and water sufficient to make a thick batter, grease a
hoe or griddle and spread the dough on it; when done on one side
turn it over.
HOECAKE OF CORN MEAL. Sift your meal of the quantity de-
sired, then make it up with cold water, a little salt if fancied, knead
well, have your hoe or griddle hot, but not too hot, test it with a little
meal or grease it, then with a spoon or your hands form a cake, place
it on the hoe and bake it. When done on the underside turn it over.
Thump to see when done. This is good to eat when hot at dinner'
or breakfast, opened and buttered.
JOHNNY CAKE. Twof>ints sour milk, 4 eggs, j tablespoonful of
molasses ; stir in enough white corn meal to make a batter. Bake
in a pan.
DIXIE CORN BREAD. Three pints of new white corn . meal, i
spoonful of lard, 2 cups of milk ; work all well together and bake in
cakes the size of the hand i inch thick.
CORN MEAL DUMPLINGS FOR DINNER. When boiling your bacon
skim off the grease or "top of the pot," and make up some corn
meal into cakes as large and thin as you may desire. You can
flatten them or make them into round balls with your hands. The
liquor should be used boiling hot and worked with a spoon, and
when nearly cold the cakes should be worked with the hands and
put into the boiling pot and cooked till done, then put in a dish to
themselves, with a small portion of the pot-liquor over them. Many
persons are fond of them when served for dinner, or you may eat
them with molasses. A good appendage to bacon or salt pork.
2O6 BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
BUTTER BISCUITS. Melt 8 ounces of butter in 1-2 pint of warm
milk and add it to 1-2 gallon flour, work to a smooth, stiff paste,
roll out and cut it in any shape, stick the biscuits with a straw or
fork, bake in a quick oven on a clean surface, open and butter and
eat while hot.
CREAM BISCUITS. Rub i pound each of fresh butter and flour
together, make a hole in the center, into which put 1-2 pound of
powdered sugar upon the rind of the lemon that has been rubbed
previously to pounding, and fchen whole eggs ; mix the eggs well
with the sugar and mix all well together, forming a flexible paste, cut
it into round pieces nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with
a butter stamp of the size of a silver dollar. Bake in a moderate
oven.
LEMON BISCUITS. One-fourth Ib. flour, 3-4 Ib. loaf sugar, 6 oz.
fresh butter, 4 eggs, i oz. lemon peel, 2 dessert spoonfuls lemon
juice; rub the flour into the butter, stir in the pounded sugar and
finely minced lemon peel, and when these ingredients are thor-
oughly incorporated add the eggs, which should have been well
beaten, and add the lemon juice. Beat the mixture well for a min-
ute or two, then drop it from the spoon on a buttered tin about 2
inches apart, as the cakes will spread when they get warm ; place
the tin in the oven and bake to a pale brown from ten to twenty
minutes.
ALMOND BISCUITS. Scald, peel and pound them fine in a mortar,
sprinkling them from time to time with a little fine sugar, beat them
a quarter of an hour with an ounce of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1-4
Ib. fine loaf sugar, and afterwards the whites of 4 eggs whipped to a
froth. Have ready some paper moulds made like boxes about the
length of 2 fingers square, butter them within and put in the bis-
cuits, throwing over them equal quantities of flour and powdered
sugar, bake them in a moderate oven, and when done of a good
color, take them out of the papers. Bitter almond biscuits are
made in the same manner, with this difference only, that to every 2
ounces of bitter almonds must be added i ounce of sweet al-
monds.
COCOANUT BISCUITS. Ten ounces sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 ounces
grated cocoanut ; beat the eggs until they are very light, add the
sugar gradually, then stir in the cocoanut ; roll a tablespoonful of
the paste at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid, place
the pyramids on papers, put the papers on tins and bake the bis-
cuits in rather a cool oven uutil they are of a yellowish brown.
BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
SPONGE BISCUIT. Ten ounces flour, i Ib sugar, 10 eggs; break
and beat the eggs and the sugar with the rind of i lemon grated
together in a pan near the fire till the mixture gets warm and not
hot, then beat it till cold, stir the flour in gently and fill it in square
tin moulds or paper cases, sift sugar over and bake in 10 minutes ;
lemon may be added.
MILK BISCUITS. Take i Ib. of flour, 1-4 Ib. of butter, 8 table-
spoonfuls of yeast and 1-2 pint of new milk ; melt the butter in the
milk, put in the yeast and some salt, and \vork into a stiff paste.
When light knead it well, roll it out an inch thick, cut out with a
tumbler, prick them with a fork, and bake in a quick oven. If but-
ter is not abundant you may take 2 ounces of lard and the rest
butter.
NAPLES BISCUIT. Beat 8 eggs in a large bowl or pan with three
spoonfuls of orange flavor; when of a stiff froth, gradually add at
the same time i Ib. of finely powdered loaf sugar, then stop whisk-
ing and put in slowly i Ib. of the best flour ; mix it well together,
the pans being prepared, fill them. Sift over a little dust of loaf
sugar and bake them as soon as possible.
HONEY BISCUITS. Mix i quart of clear honey with a coffee cup
of white sugar and a coffee cup of fresh butter and the juice of 2
oranges or lemons, slightly warm the butter to soften it, stir all the
ingredients well together, adding a grated nutmeg, then mix in gra-
dually 2 Ibs. of flour, more or less ; form a dough just stiff enough
to roll out smoothly, beat it well with a rolling-pin, then roll it out
into a large cake 1-2 inch thick, cut it into biscuits with a tumbler
dipped frequently in flour, lay them on a baking sheet slightly but-
tered or floured, and bake them.
TEA BISCUITS. Two quarts of flour, i pint of sweet milk, i table-
spoonful of butter or shortening, the same of white sugar, a little
salt if lard is used, 1-3 of a cup of good yeast. Let the milk cool
after boiling it, make a hole in the flour and put in the ingredients,
stir them a little, mixing in a little flour, let it rise over night ; in the
morning mix and knead well, let them rise, cutting down two or three
times during the day, cut out in cakes, making 2 layers, put them in
a pan to rise an hour or so before baking.
FRENCH ROLLS. 2 pints of good flour, 3 eggs, 6 spoonfuls of
yeast, 2 cups of milk and a little salt ; cover it up warm and set it
to rise for 30 minutes, then make the rolls and put them in a quick
oven and let them stay in 1-2 hour; if not light enough add more
yeast, if you can do so without making them bitter.
GERMAN ROLLS. Take 1-2 gallon of the best flour and as much
new milk as will wet the above into dough, mix it with a cup of yeast ,
i tablespoonful of sugar and set sponge ; when risen add a spoonful
2O8 BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
of butter melted with 2 eggs, work it together and make it in rolls;
let them rise in a warm place ; bake in buttered tins in a brisk oven
20 minutes.
DELICIOUS BREAKFAST ROLLS. Rub into i pint of flour a spoon-
ful of butter, i teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt ; mix into a light
paste with new warm milk containing i tablespoonful of yeast ; let
the paste stand for 3-4 of an hour or longer till it rises, then make
into small rolls either egged over or not, and bake; an egg to each
pint of flour is an improvement, in which a part of the white is re-
served for egging over.
IRISH POTATO ROLLS. Boil 3 Ibs. of Irish potatoes, mash and
work them while warm with as much milk as will make them pass
through a colander; take 1-2 or 3-4 pint of yeast and 1-2 pint of
warm water, mix with the potatoes, then pour the whole upon 5 Ibs.
of flour; add a little salt; knead it well, and if not of proper con-
sistency put in a little more milk and warm water ; let it stand before
the fire an hour to rise, work it well and make into rolls. Bake
one-half hour in a moderate oven. They eat well toasted and
buttered.
SALLY LUNN ROLLS. Two Ibs. of fine flour, 2 small spoonfuls of
yeast, with a little warm water; set to rise 1-2 hour, put a spoonful
of butter, the yolk of an egg in as much new milk as will make it of
proper stiffness, mix all well up and put into cups ; when risen bake
in rather a quick oven.
ROLLS (Mrs. E. A. Watson ) One quart of milk, i good table-
spoonful of butter, i cupful of homemade yeast ; warm the milk
slightly and put the butter in it, stir in 2 quarts of flour, a little salt,
and beat to a batter, and then set it ; when it rises stir in more flour
till it is of the proper consistency.
SPANISH DOUGHNUTS. Take 6 or 8 milk rolls, remove the crust,
cut them into small slices as thick as your finger, put them in a dish
and pour over them some strong wine (red), which has first been
well mixed with 6 ounces of sugar, a tablespoonful of ground cinna-
mon, 1-2 that quantity of cloves, and 1-4 of a nutmeg, ground or
beaten. Let the slic'es soak in the wine a little, but not so long as
to pull to pieces. Before dishing they are to be dipped in butter and
fried in hot lard and strewed with sugar and glazed with a hot shovel,
that is, hold a shovel over the slices till the sugar which is on
them melts.
SWEET MILK DOUGHNUTS (Mrs. Kendall, San Francisco, Cal.
One egg, i cup of sugar, i cup of sweet milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of
cream of tarter, i teaspoonful of soda, a little salt ; mix well and fry
in hot lard.
PLUM BUNS. Mix with the dough of buns blanched al-
BISCUITS AND ROLLS. 209
monds chopped fine and season them with cinnamon and mace ;
work them around the edges, when moulded as common buns.
SACRAMENTO WIGS OR BUNS. Rub 1-2 Ib. each of butter and
sugar, 1-2 ounce caraway seeds, 2 eggs, 1-2 pint of ale yeast into 2
Ibs. flour, beat well together the eggs, yeast, a little flour and 3 or 4
spoonfuls of milk ; strain it into the middle and strew some of the
flour over it ; let stand 12 hours or longer, then make up into a pretty
tender paste with lukewarm water or milk, mould the wigs and set
them before the fire i hour to rise, then wash them over with the
yolk of an egg beaten with 2 spoonfuls of milk.
WAFFLES. Beat well the yolks of 4 eggs ; add 2 1-2 pints of sweet
milk and 1-2 a teaspoonful of salt, add enough sifted flour to make
rather a stiff batter ; beat the whites of the eggs very stiff and stir in
lightly, the last thing before baking ; bake in waffle irons, serve hot,
and eat with butter and syrup. If but 3 eggs are used, add one
heaping teaspoon of baking powder to the flour.
RICK WAFFLES. 9 eggs well beaten,* 9 large spoonfuls of rice
flour, i teaspoonful of salt, have a teacup of rice boiled very soft,
and when cool, beat in the flour and eggs; add i 1-2 pints of milk,
grease your waffle irons nicely with lard, fill them up with the mix-
ture, and bake in a hot iron mould. Butter and se/id to the table.
PLAIN WAFFLES. i pint of butter miik, i pint of flour, i teaspoon-
ful (even) soda, thin with new sweet milk, if convenient, use sour
cream, in the place of the other milk.
GERMAN WAFFLES. Mix 12 oz. butter, the yolks of 6 eggs, 12
oz. flour, stir slowly in 1-4 pint of new milk, beat the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the batter, bake as soon as taken
from the moulds and place one upon the other.
WAFFLES (raised) 6 eggs, 3 pints sweet milk, just warm, 1-2 cup
of butter, a little salt, a teacupful of yeast ; sufficient flour to make a
stiff batter. Let it rise for three hours ; let the pans be hot before
baking; put into muffin irons. Some make up these muffins over
night.
CRULLERS. Take 4 pounds of wheat flour, 1-2 pound of butter,
4 eggs, i quart of milk, i 1-2 pounds of sugar, a little ground mace
or nutmeg, and i oz. of carb. soda. Fry in lard or oil.
CRULLERS. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 6 tablespoonfuls
of sugar, 3 eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, and flavor
with anything you like. Mix very soft and roll thin.
CRULLERS. i tea poonful of saleratus dissolved in 4 tablespoon-
fuls of milk ; strain into 1-2 pint of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted
butter or lard, i teaspoonful of salt, 4 eggs, 6 heaping teaspoonfuls
of sugar, i nutmeg, flour to roll rut. Boil in hot water.
NORTH CAROLINA JUMBLES. (D. C.) i pound each of flour, *u.;ar
2IO BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
and butter ; mix these ingredients with 3 well beaten eggs, a wine-
glass of rose water, and some essence of lemon. Roll in thin sheets,
cut in circles and dip in loaf sugar before baking.
FAMILY JUMBLES. (D. C.) 3 pounds of flour, 11-2 pounds of
white sugar, i pound of butter, a cup of new milk, a glass of new
wine, a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water, and a teaspoonful
beaten caraway seeds.
BRANDY CAKES OR JUMBLES. Sift a teaspoon of soda in 3 pounds
of flour into a wooden tray, throw in 1-2 pound of brown sugar, 3-4
pound of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 8 eggs, leaving out
the whites of four, and a wineglass of brandy ; take all up in a mas's,
sprinkle some fine sugar on your biscuit board, roll a piece of the
dough in your hand, then in the sugar, and make into the form of a
ring in joining the ends together ; place them not very closely in
a stove pan and bake them a light brown, let them cool a little and
take them out very carefully, with a knife under them. Wipe the pan
out clean every time you put in a fresh lot, and never grease or flour
it. They are very nice, and keep well.
SPANISH JUMBLKS, (Mrs. B.) 8 eggs, well beaten, a pound each
of butter and sugar, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, i 2 teaspoonful
of soda or Price's yeast powder, sifted flour enough for a soft
dough, i nutmeg i teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, roll this
dough in strips four inches long, join the ends so as to form rings,
place on buttered pans and bake quickly.
CALIFORNIA JUMBLES. 5 eggs, 3 cups of sugar, i 1-2 cups of but-
ter, a teaspoonful of soda, flour to make a stiff dough to roll. Flavor
to taste with spices or essences.
Los ANQELOS GINGERBREAD. One pound of brown sugar, 2 Ibs.
of well dried flour, 5 gills of molasses, 1-2 Ib. beaten ginger, fine, i
glass of brandy, i Ib of butter, well rubbed in the flour ; mix well all
the ingredients, till it becomes a paste, roll out, and cut in any shape
fancied ; baked a little time on a tin.
SOFT GINGERBREAD. Six cups of flour. 3 cups molasses, a cup of
butter, a teaspoonful of pearlash dissolved in a cup of sour milk, 2
eggs, 2 oz. each of ginger, cinnamon and allspice.
HARD GINGERBREAD. Rub 1-2 pound. of butter into a pound of
flour, rub them in 1-2 pound of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ginger,
and a spoonful of rose-water; work it well, roll out, and bake in flat
pans, in a moderate oven. It will take about half an hour to bake.
This gingerbread will keep good some time.
CALIFORNIA GINGERBREAD. Mix with 2 pounds of flour, i pint of
molasses, 3-4 pound of caraways, i oz of ginger, finely sifted, 1-2 Ib.
of butter. Roll the paste into what form you fancy, bake in tins,
after having worked it well, and kept it to rise. If you like, add
orange, candied in small bits.
BISCUITS AND ROLLS. 211
VANILLA COOKIES. One cup of sugar, 1-2 cup of butter, beat the
sugar and butter together, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1-2 tea-
spoonful of soda, 1-2 cup of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Roll
out very thin and bake a delicate brown. Leave out the vanilla,
and you have sugar cookies.
BUTTER COOKIES. Half a cup of sugar, a cup of butter and 3 eggs,
roll thin and bake in a moderate oven. These cookies improve with
age.
NICE PLAIN COOKIES, One cup of sour milk, a teaspoon of soda,
a cup of lard, 2 cups of sugar; flavor lightly with lemon, mix stiff
with flour and roll thin ; a little salt.
ORANGE GINGERBREAD. Sift 2 1-2 pounds of fine flour and add
to it i 3-4 pints of molasses, 12 ounces of sugar, 1-2 pound of can-
died orange peel, cut small, i oz each of ground ginger and allspice,
melt to oil 12 oz. of fresh butter, mix the whole together and let it
remain for 12 hours; roll out with as little flour as possible to 1-2
an inch thick ; cut it in pieces, 3 inches long and 2 inches wide,
checker them with the back of a knife, put on baking plates so as
not to touch, rub them over with a brush dipped into the yolk of an
egg, beaten up with a cup of milk. Bake in a moderate oven after
a few minutes ; when done, retouch them slightly, divide the pieces
with a knife, if they have run together in baking.
SUGAR TEA CAKE. Two cups of sugar, 2 eggs, a cup of lard or
butter, a cup of sour milk, a heaping teaspoonful of soda, 2 spoons
cream tartar. Mix soft and bake in a quick oven.
LEMON TEA CAKE. Put 4 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar into a
quart of good flour and 2 cups of sweet milk, in which put 2 tea-
spoonfuls of soda, 4 tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 cups of sugar,
mixed well together, then break into it 4 eggs, pour in milk and flour
and flavor to taste with rasped lemon rind and the juice.
CALIFORNIA TEA CAKE. Dissolve 1-2 a teaspoonful of cream tar-
tar in hot water and let it stand to cool ; beat 10 eggs to a stiff froth,
then put the cream tartar and eggs together and beat them for 10
minutes, add some fine flour and 4 oz of sugar, put in square pans
and bake in a quick oven.
TOASTS. Stale bread is preferable to new for toasting. N. B. If
toast is to be served under a fowl, bird, eggs, or kidney, it should be
toasted very dry.
FRENCH TOAST. (Miss Savage.) To one egg, thoroughly beaten,
put one cup of sweet milk and a little salt, slice light bread and dip
into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of the milk, then
brown in a well buttered griddle. Spread with butter and serve hot.
LEMON TOAST. (Forsyth) Beat well the yolks of 6 eggs, add 3
cups of sweet milk, take baker's bread, not too stale and cut into
212 BISCUITS AND ROLLS.
slices ; dip them 'into the milk and eggs, and lay the slices into a
hot spider with sufficient melted butter to fry a nice delicate brown ;
take the whites of the 6 eggs and beat them to a froth, adding a large
cup of white sugar, add the juice of 2 lemons, beating well and add
2 cups of boiling water; serve over the bread as a sauce and you
will find it a very delicious dish.
INDIAN TOAST. Place 4 quarts of milk over the fire ; when it
boils, add a spoonful of flour to thicken, a teaspoonful of salt, a lump
of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar; have ready in a deep dish, 6 or
8 slices of light Indian bread toasted, pour the mixture over them
and serve hot.
ENGLISH MUFFINS. Put 1-2 gallon of flour into a tray, mix
i 1-2 pint of new warm milk and water with 1-4 pint of mild ale
yeast and a little salt, stir these together for 15 minutes, strain
the liquid into the flour, mix the dough as light as possible and
set it to rise for an hour. Make it up with the hands, pull it to
pieces each the size of a walnut, roll them up like balls and lay
a flannel over them as fast as they are done and keep the dough
covered the whole time. When the dough is quite rolled into
balls the first that are done will be quite ready for baking, and
may be spread out into the form of muffins. Lay them on the
heated plate, and as the bottoms change color turn them on the
other side. Care must be taken not to burn them. Another and
a better sort is made by mixing i Ib. of flour with an egg, an ounce
of butter melted in a pint of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast beaten
well together. Raise for 2 or 3 hours; bake in rings.
BU.EAD MUFFINS. Cut off the crust of five thick slices of loaf or
baker's bread, lay them in a deep dish and pour boiling water over
them just enough to saturate them ; cover the dish, and after the
bread has soaked an hour drain off the water. Work with a spoon
until it is a smooth paste, then mix in 2 1-2 tablespoonfuls of flour
and 2 cups of milk ; beat 3 eggs and stir them slow into the bread
mass ; grease or butter your muffin rings, set them on a hot stove
pan and pour into each ring a portion of the batter; bake brown,
break them open with the fingers to butter and eat them hot ; a nice
muffin.
CORN MEAL MUFFINS. To 3 pints of corn meal (if can be had
bolted), i cup of lard, 3 eggs, 1-2 teaspoonful soda, a little salt.
Beat stiff batter with buttermilk and bake in muffin rings with quick
fire.
WAFERS. Put 7 ounces of sifted flour in a paste board, add 5 ozs.
of pounded sugar, 3 ozs, of butter, the grated peel of an orange ;
mix the whole with an egg and woik it to a smooth, stiff paste ; divide
the paste into pieces of the size of a walnut and give them an olive
BISCUITS AND ROLLS. 213
shape ; heat an oval wafer iron, place one of the pieces of paste in
it, close the iron tightly, so as to spread the paste, and cook it on
both sides ; take the wafer out of the iron and put it flat on a sieve.
When the paste has cooked in this way put the wafers by until
wanted.
ICE WAFERS. Put 1-2 pound of flour in a basin with 1-2 pound
of pounded sugar, i teaspoonful of vanilla sugar, 3 eggs ; mix well
together and add 1-2 ounce of butter melted, and work the whole to
a smooch paste, then mix in i quart of milk, in small quantities at
first ; heat a wafer iron over a moderate fire, turn it over to heat
both sides equally, and pour in a spoonful of the wafer paste on
one side, close the iron and put it over the fire ; when the wafer
is cooked on one side turn the iron over and cook the other side ;
cut off the superfluous part around the iron, open it, and place a
stick on one end of the wafer and roll it quickly around the
stick. Cook all the paste in the same way and put the wafers in
a tin box, in a dry place, till wanted.
ALMOND WAFERS A L'ALLEMOND. Blanch, peel and pound 1-2
Ib. of almonds, pounded sugar, and moisten the paste with two
whites of eggs, warm sonie untinned baking sheets, rub them
over with pure white wax, and when cold place on them some
small portions of the paste of the size of a small walnut at in-
tervals ; flatten each portion with a knife to a round 2 inches in
diameter, strew the the top with chopped almonds mixed in white
of egg and pounded sugar; bake the wafers in a slack oven, and
when done press them on a rolling pin to curve them, and put them
by for use.
GINGKR SNAPS. Take 7 pounds of flour, i quart of molasses, i
Ib. of brown sugar, i Ib. butter, 2 ounces of ground ginger, and then
take i gill of water, 3-4 of an ounce of saleratus ; mix them all
into a dough and cut them out something larger than marbles and
bake them in a moderate oven
GINGER SNAPS. Two cups sugar, 2 cups molasses, 2 cups butter,
or i cup of butter and i of lard, 2 tablespoonfnls soda dissolved in
a very little rich milk and 4 tablespoonfuls of ginger. Roll thin and
bake in a well-heated oven.
CINNAMON JUMBLF.S. 1-2 cup each of butter and lard mixed to-
gether, a teaspoonful of Price's yeast powder sifted into 2 cups
of flour, 2 eggs, and powdered cinnamon enough to color a light
brown ; drop a teaspoonful for each jumble on buttered iron sheets.
Bake quickly ; when done, dust them with white sugar. They are
delicious.
GERMAN TOAST. Beat 2 eggs lightly, slice a baker's loaf, dip in
the eggs, and fry quickly in hot lard ; serve with hot sauce.
214
BATTER CAKES.
BATTER CAKES.
PLAIN CORN BATTER CAKES. Take as much corn meal as you
may think necessary, sift it and then add salt, an egg or two, a little
lard or milk or meat broth, a small teaspoonful of soda or more,
beat well, fry on a hot and well-greased griddle. The cakes should
be small, not larger than a cup. Butter and pile them on a hot
plate; eat with molasses, honey or butter. Use skimmed milk.
These cakes are good as well as economical.
CORN MEAL BATTER BREAD. One pint each of sifted corn meal,
buttermilk or clabber, i teaspoonful of soda, 4 eggs, all beaten and
added last ; salt to taste. It is best to beat the eggs before adding
them.
BATTER CAKES. Two quarts of yellow corn meal, sifted, i cup of
lard, i teaspoonful of salt, i of saleratus or a large one of soda dis-
solved in warm water or sour milk, i or 2 eggs; stir until well-mixed,
then add enough cold water or enough of the broth in which bacon,
pork or beef has been boiled, to soften the compound. It is better
to have it warm, then beat 9r stir thirty minutes with a heavy spoon,
then have your^ griddle hot, and bake as buckwheat cakes. It is
better to butter them when taken up, even if molasses is used, and
send them to the table hot. You can make them without eggs, and
the batter can stand for hours without injury, only stir well when
about to cook the batter.
WASHINGTON CORN BATTER CAKES. Add i pint of cold water or
buttermilk, i teaspoonful of salt, to 3 pints of corn meal, an even
teaspoonful of soda or salaratus dissolved in water or buttermilk, i
spoonful flour, i 1-2 pint of buttermilk or warm water, add more
water if not thin enough ; then have the griddle hot and well-greased,
tied up in a clean white rag ; beef suet, lard or butter may be used.
Bake the cakes fast by putting on a laddleful. Send in piles hot to
the table. Remove the rough edges. These cakes do not require
eggs.
VIRGINIA CORN BATTER CAKES. Three pints white, raw, ripe In-
dian meal (which is as white as the driven snow), a small cup of
fine flour, a large, heaping spoonful of butter, as many eggs as you
may like, i 1-2 pints of sweet milk or pot-liquor formed by boiling
bacon, pork or beef in water ; sift the meal into a tray and mix the
flour and salt with it and the batter, then pour in the milk gradually,
until the whole is thoroughly incorporated, then break the eggs into
the compound and stir for 10 or 15 minutes with a strong spoon. If
more milk be required, add it. Have the griddle clean, hot and
well-greased with fresh lard tied in a clean rag, then with a spoon
INDIAN AND RYE BREAD. 21$
pour in the batter to the size and thickness desired. When the un-
derside is brown turn it with a knife or cake-turner. Remove and
put on a hot plate and butter it, and grease the griddle again and
put on another cake ; when done lay it on the other and butter it,
and thus continue as long as the cakes are wanted.
INDIAN AND RYE BREAD.
INDIAN RYE BREAD. Four pints of corn meal, 4 pints of rye flour,
i 1-2 pints of milk or water, 1-2 tablespoonful of salt, i cup of good,
fresh yeast. After sifting the rye flour and meal together add the
salt and pour the milk scalding hot on the mixture and stir it very
hard until all are well-mixed. If the dough is too stiff, add some
warm water, let it stand until it becomes milk-warm, then stir in the
yeast. Knead the compound into a stiff dough for 30 minutes,
then cover the pan with a thick cloth folded several times, that has
been warmed; and set it in a warm place or before the fire to rise ;
when the dough is quite light and cracked on the top, take it out of
the pan and put it on a tray and knead it again for 10 or 15 minutes,
divide it into 2 loaves, then set it near the fire cover it, let it remain
for 30 minutes. Having the oven ready, put in the loaves immedi-
ately and bake i 1-2 hours. If the dough is sour, sweeten it by
adding i teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water.
INDIAN WHEAT BREAD can be made in the same manner by using
wheat flour instead of rye. A little Indian meal is a great improve-
ment to homemade bread, as it keeps it moist and sweet.
BOSTON RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. Eight cups each of corn meal
and rye flour, 2 cups of good, strong yeast, i cup of mglasses, i
dessert spoonful of salt. After sifting, mix the meal and rye flour
with the salt in a large woo'den bowl or tray ; have ready i cup of
warm, but not too hot water; mix the molasses and stir in the yeast.
Make a hole in the center of the meal, then with a spoon stir in all
the flour that surrounds the hole till it forms a thick batter; put the
compound in a pan and sprinkle the top with rye meal ; place a
thick cloth over the pan and set it in a warm place to rise. In 3 or
4 four hours it will be cracked all over the top ; in this case it is
light enough ; then open the middle and gradually pour in two cups
of warm water ; as you pour in, work it till the whole is so mixed as
to become a round mass of dough. Then flour hands and work it
for 30 minutes until the dough ceases to stick to your hands ; turn
it over, then sprinkle it again with rye flour, and again set it in a
warm place to rise. Have your oven at a proper heat, so that the
bread may be put in as soon as it rises the second time. When
light the dough will stand high and the surface cracked all over.
INDIAN AND RYE BREAD.
This will do for a medium loaf. Put it directly in the oven and bake
it for nearly or quite two hours. The bread will fall if not baked
immediately. When done, wrap it directly in a coarse, wet towel
and stand it upright till it is cold. It should be baked in a deep
iron pan. If the dough should be sour, restore its sweetness by
adding a teaspoonful of soda or salaratus dissolved in a little water,
then knead it in the dough.
PREMIUM RYE BREAD. One quart each of Indian meal and rye
flour and wheat flour, i teaspoonful of yeast, i one of salt. Make
a thick batter with warm milk ; pour into pans and let it rise. Bake
till well done.
PREMIUM BREAD Take 3 gills each of new milk and boiling wa-
ter and stir into this flour enough to form a batter ; set it by to rise
in a warm place ; when sufficiently risen add flour enough to make
it thick enough to work with the hands, and for baking. Set to rise
in half an hour ; then bake in a moderate oven, with a thin piece of
paper over jt.
SUPERIOR BREAD WITHOUT YEAST. Take cold or ice water, the
colder the better, and into this stir coarse corn meal to make a stiff
batter ; stir quickly, adding the meal, so as to introduce all the air
possible. Put it into small patty-pans or cake tins ; bake in a very
hot oven for half an hour or longer. Baking is the most difficult
part of the operation.
MRS. GEN. R. E. LEE'S BREAD. Take i quart of best family
flour, put in i egg and sweet lard the size of an egg, 2 large table-
spoonfuls of yeast (by her recipe), i tablespoonful of salt and i of
sugar. By this rule bread can be made and the dough kept for 3
days and sufficient taken off to bake for each day. Mrs. Lee says
if kept cold in winter or in an ice-house in summer, it will lie dor-
mant and may freeze without injury. If frozen hard enough to cut
with an ax it will not be damaged, and will rise readily as soon as
placed near the fire. If made in this way, to save, and a change of
temperature causes it to rise, it must be worked immediately. It is
only in this state that it can be injured or become sour.
GRAHAM BREAD.
Take unbolted wheat flour ; mix with water, or better, sweet milk,
in proportion of 1-3 milk to 2-3 water. Have the liquid in a pan
and pour in a sufficient quantity of flour, which, after stirring, will
make a batter that will readily drop from a spoon. Do not salt the
bread, unless you prefer salt to natural sweetness. Have the pans
hissing hot, grease them and pour in as much dough as they will
hold. Do not be in a hurry to bake. Bake 20 minutes in a hot stove,
GRAHAM BREAD. 217
and if rightly mixed and baked it will be as light and porous as
bread raised with yeast.
BROWN GRAHAM BREAD. Three cups each of corn meal and
graham flour, i cup of syrup, 2 teaspoonfuls salaratus dissolved in
sour milk, i tablespoonful salt. Steam 3 hours and bake 8 hours in
a slow oven.
BROWN AND SWEET GRAHAM BREAD. Two quarts of graham
meal, i cup of brown sugar, a little salt and milk and bake like other
bread.
BROWN BREAD. Two cupfuls of corn meal, i cupful of rye meal,
pour in a cupful of boiling water, add 2 cups of sour milk, i tea-
spoonful each of soda and salt, 1-2 cupful of molasses. Steam in a
pan all day and brown in an oven.
CRACKED WHEAT. Take 2 teacupfuls of wheat and rinse it
thoroughly in cold water, then add 4 cupfuls of cold water, place
the basin in a steamer and cover closely, Let it steam 4 or 5 hours,
stirring once or twice. To be eaten hot or cold with rich milk or
cream if you have either. Many use a little sugar with it and also
with graham pudding. This is a popular diet and is universally
used.
CRACKED WHEAT TO COOK One-third wheat ; boil in 2-3 water.
Soak the wheat over night.
HOMINY BREAD.' Mix 2 well-beaten eggs with 2 cupfuls of cold
boiled hominy, one of corn meal, i tablespoonful of melted lard or
butter and sweet milk ; form a thin batter and bake slowly.
FLORIDA BRKAD. One coffee cup of milk, i of sweet white meal,
i or 2 eggs well beaten ; stir all well together. Bake well.
HOMEMADE BREAD. Sift the quantity of flour you intend to use;
put into a bowl 21-2 gills of water to every quart; a large kitchen
spoonful of yeast, a teaspoonful of salt to every quart ; stir this mix-
ture well ; put into it a handful of flour for each quart, mix well, then
take 1-3 of the flour remaining and stir it into the mixture. This is
called the sponge, and it should be set to rise. When it is well-risen
turn it into a large bowl; mix in the dry flour, knead quite light and
set it to rise, then make into loaves and bake.
BREAD TO SERVE AT TABLE. The plate should be perfectly
round, with a flat surface and of wood. They cou'd be made very
handsome. To match the plate, a bread-knife with a wooden han-
dle should be procured, the blade sharp, thin and long, as it is soon
dulled by cutting bread. It is better to place two loaves of bread
markpd on the plate, one white and the other brown bread; so, at time
when you cut the bread, ask what kind is wished, and if thin or
thick slices. Cut no more than is necessary. Pass the plate around.
Never serve the outside of bread or meal unless you are requested
GRAHAM BREAD.
to do so. In cutting egg bread to serve a second time take the
knife and cut off a minute portion of the edi'e and leave it on the
plate, as that becomes hard, and then cut off a slice. Not much
strength is required for cutting bread, " but it may be done very
gracefully."
LEAVENED BREAD. Harving preserved a piece of dough from your
last baking, the night before you intend to bake, put this into the
amount of flour you intend to bake and work the whole together
with warm water; let it lie in a wooden bowl or tray, covered with
a thick cloth or a thin one folded several times over it, in a warm
place. The dough, kept warm, will ris*e again the next morning and
will prove sufficient to mix with two or three bushels of flour when
worked up with warm water and one pound of salt to each bushel.
Being worked well and thoroughly incorporated, cover it, as before,
till it rises ; then knead aud make into loaves. The more the dough
leaven is used the lighter the bread will be.
To MAKE TWIST BREAD. Make the dough, then take three pieces
each as large as a pint bowl ; sift some flour on the table or board
and roll each lump under your hand to a foot long, making it smaller
at the ends than in the middle. Having rolled the three pieces in
this way, join their ends together, plait them the whole length
and join the last ends as the first, by pressing them together. Pass
a brush dipped in milk over the the loaf. Lay in baking tins, set in
a quick oven ; bake for 55 minutes. When the milk is put on wait
10 minutes before baking.
WHEAT BREAD.
A PLAIN LOAF OF BREAD. One gallon of the best flour or sec-
onds, i teaspoonful salt, 3 tablespoonfuls yeast, i 1-2 pint of water.
Allow to rise and bake. Make into a large loaf of bread.
MEXICAN BREAD. Three pints of flour, i 1-2 pint of sugar, 6
eggs. Take the white out of 3 of the eggs ; 3 oz. soda. Salt to
taste. Raise with hop yeast.
PULLED BREAD. Take from the oven an ordinary loaf when it is
about half-baked, and with the fingers, while the bread is yet hot,
dexterously pull the half-set dough into pieces of irregular shape
about the size of an egg. Don't attempt to smooth or flatten them;
the rougher their shapes the better. Set upon tins and place in a
slow oven and bake to a rich brown. This forms a delicious, crisp
crust for cheese. If you do not bake at home, your baker will pre-
pare it for you, if ordered. It is very nice with wine instead of
biscuits.
BREAD FOR DYSPEPTICS. Scald some Indian meal; mix with it
WHEAT BREAD.
2ig
the same quantity of rye flour, adding yeast and salt, and knead as
other bread. Bake from two to three hours.
LOAF BRE\D (Miss Mary McDowell). Mix 2 quarts of flour
with cold water to a stiff batter, stir in a teacupful of yeast and a
tablespoon ful of sweet lard or butter; set it near the fire, but not
too near, and let it rise four hours ; then add a small handful of salt;
work in more flour, knead it well half an hour ; make into rolls or a
loaf and let it rise an hour or two before baking it. It requires 11-2
hours to bake a large loaf.
SISTER'S BREAD. Three pints of warm water, i tablespoonful of
yeast, i teacupful of warm yeast ; thicken it with flour to form a
dough. Let it rise, then work into loaves. Let these rise 1-2 an
hour; bake 45 minutes.
WHEAT AND INDIAN BREAD. To 2 quarts of sifted Indian meal
add hot water enough to wet the same ; when sufficiently cooled add
i teaspoonful or more of salt, 1-2 of yeast and r teaspoonful of mo-
lasses; then add wheat flour enough to make it into loaves (it should
be kneaded well) ; and when risen properly bake or steam it three
or four hours ; if this should sour while rising, add a teaspoonful of
sugar and a little salaratus dissolved in water.
RISEN BREAD.
MILK "RISEN" BREAD (Mrs. L. C. Mayo). Two cup's of flour
made into a batter rather thicker than for waffles, with warm milk and
an equal proportion of water, a tablespoonful of salt. Set it in a
pot of warm water rather above blood heat, and keep it so, stirring
it every 15 minutes untill it begins to bead, then keep it perfectly
still, the water remaining as warm as at first. After it has sufficiently
risen, knead in flour until nearly the consistency of light bread dough.
Put it in a tin pan and set it in a moderately warm oven to take a
second rise. Begin to bake it slowly, putting a little fire under the
oven and a little on the lid, increasing the heat gradually. About
i 1-2 hours will suffice to bake it. In cold weather the batter should
be up by daylight or early dawn.
SALT RISING BREAD No. i. This bread is superior to common yeast
bread and is considered more wholesome. Put 3 teacups of water,
as warm as you can hold your finger in, into a quart cup or bowl
and 3-4 of a teaspoonful of salt, stir in flour enough to make quite
stiff batter. This is for the rising or emptying, as some call it. Set
the bowl, closely covered, in a kettle of warm water, "as warm as
you can bear your finger in, "and keep it as near this temperature as
possible. Notice the time when you "set your rising;" in three hours
stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, put it back, and in 5 1-2 hours from
22O ^ RISEN BREAD.
the time of <^t' : :-,g it will be within an inch of the top of your bowl.
It is then light enough and will make up eight quarts of flour. Make
a sponge in the center of your flour with i quart of water of the
same temperature as the rising. Stir the rising into it, cover over
with a little dry flour and put it where it will keep warm, but not
scald : in 3-4 of an hour mix this into stiff dough, and if water is
used, be sure that it is very warm, and do not work as much as yeast
bread. Make -the loaves a Ifttle larger and keep them warm for an-
other 3-4 of an hour. It will then be ready to bake. While rising
this last time leave your oven heating ; it needs a hotter ov&n than
yeast bread. If these rules are followed you will -have bread as
white as snow, with a light brown crust, deliciously sweet and tender.
RISEN CORN BREAD. Make up the required quantity of corn
meal in the morning or over night with warm water and a little salt ;
cover and set it away in not too cool a place, or before the fire if
very cold. Then at night or in the morning, when the dough has
risen sufficiently, add some more meal, and work it again well. Then
meal the bottom of the oven, divide into loaves or have but one,
then put in the dough and set it to rise again. Bake slowly and
thoroughly, test it by putting a straw through the middle of it. If
the straw be moist it is not done. It can be eaten in slices with
butter, either cold or hot. It will keep well for some days.
SALT RISING BREAD No. 2. Pour into a right-sized bowl a pint of
new sweet milk and into this a pint of boiling water. Stir in till
smooth enough flour to make a thick batter, keep at the same tem-
perature for six hours, when it will rise and should be used at once.
Sift into a bowl 3 quarts of flour, pour in the yeast, add warm water
or milk to wet up all the flour. Salt to taste, knead lightly, put into
pans, let it rise and then bake. N. B In making this bread, great
care is needed at every stage. The yeast should be used just when
it passes from the saccharine to the various fermentations and be-
fore it gets the least sour. Precisely at that moment the raised
dough should be put into the oven. The dough should be as soft
when put into the pans as can be conveniently handled.
Note. Some kinds of flour will not make good salt rising bread.
The vessel into which the yeast is strained must be scalded out and
be perfectly sweet, or the yeast will sour before it rises. Nothing
stale should be used. There is no sweeter or more wholesome bread
than this when skillfully made.
FAVORITE SCOTCH BREAD. One pound each of flour or bread
crumbs, sugar, butter, 8 or 10 eggs, 1-2 pound of citron, candied
lemon and orange peeling in equal proportions, 4 spoonfuls of French
brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, 4 ounces of preserved fruit, stewed
or raw, chopped fine (dark colored fruits should not be used). Put
RISEN BREAD. 221
the batter in a bowl or deep dish and stir it with a wooden spoon
until of the consistency of cream, then gradually throw iq a handful
of each ingredient, 2 eggs at a time ; when these ingredients are
smoothly and thoroughly blended, cut the candied peels into strings
and rub the cut orange and lemon peels' in sugar, and add these;
then pour the paste into long tin baking pans, oiled with butter ;
strew the preserves over the surface ; then, before putting them in the
stove, shake some sugar over them. Bake a light brown.
Note. The flour, sugar, eggs, brandy and salt should be gradually
added to the butter. Nice bread for lunch, breakfast or informal
occasions.
ITALIAN BREAD No. i. One pound each of powdered loaf sugar and
butter, i pound and 2 ounces flour, 12 eggs, 1-2 pound each of citron
and lemon peeling ; mix as for pound cake. If the mixture begins
to curdle, which it is most likely to do, because of the quantity of
eggs, add a little flour. When the eggs are all used and it is light,
stir in the remainder of the flour slightly. Bake it in long, narrow
tins, either papered or buttered ; first put in a layer of the mixture
and cover it with the peeling cut in thin slices. Proceed in this way
until it is three-fourths full, and bake it in a moderate oyen.
LOUISIANA BREAD. Work a little lard or butter into flour, ^add a
few tablespoonfuls of yeast, according to strength, or a yeast 'cake
dissolved in water and salt, then work up with tepid water. Hot
water must never be used. Work to the consistency of biscuit
dough. Set it to rise for several hours. If it burns before thoroughly
done, fold a newspaper several times and lay over it.
BREAD To KEEP MOIST. Place in the bread-pan aboard pierced
with holes, and so -supported as to be a couple of inches from the
bottom of the pan ; let there be an inch depth of water in the pan ;
put the bread on the board and cover the pan with the lid. The in-
closed air will prevent the bread from becoming too dry.
THE BREAD I ATE AT HOME. Save a gill of bread dough made
with yeast, cover it tightly and place it in a cool room or cellar until
baking-day, then make a sponge of it by adding warm water and
flour and a teaspoonful of sugar ; this should be done early ; in the
evening, when the sponge is very light, mix the bread as usual with
warm milk or water and a teaspoonful of soda or saleratus, and
when light, bake. This always insures light, sweet bread, and entirely
does away with yeast-making. Of course a piece of dough must be
saved each time.
BURN BREAK (Irish). The dough of 1-2 quarteen loaf, 2 ounces
caraway seeds, 6 ounces sugar, 4 eggs and 1-4 pound of butter;
work it all up together with as much flour as will make it of a proper
consistency to bake. This takes half hour to do. Make into a round
cake or loaf and bake.
222 STALE BREAD.
OUR OWN BREAJD. Set your sponge over night with i<2 pint of
lukewarm water, i teaspoonful of yeast and i pint of flour (measure
before sifting). In the morning add 1-2 cup of milk (in water with
a little butter in it), and stir into the sponge with a spoonful of lime
water and i pint of flour. Knead into 2 loaves and put them into
pan to rise. Bake 1-2 hour.
STALE BREAD.
To RENEW OLD BREAD. Soak the bread in enough water to
moisten it sufficiently to dampen it inside. Then put into a bake
oven and heat very hot all through, even to bake it a little would
not hurt it. Do not cover the oven. In this way old and dry bread
may be made moist and good, no matter what kind, if it is not musty
or moldy.
To ECONOMIZE STALE OR SOUR BREAD, CRUST AND CRUMBS. Put
them into a stove and bake them slowly for several hours ; then soak
them ad make pudding and griddle cakes and even sponge cake.
The sour bread should have a little salaratus added to the batter
when it is used for that purpose to correct the acidity. N. B. Rich
cake that has wine or brandy in it will keep several months if kept in
a cool, dry place. The day before it is to be eaten put it in a cake
pan and set it in a bake pan that has a cup of water in it. Set on the
bake pan cover and let the cake bake till it is thoroughly heated.
Let it be cold before it is eaten.
USES OF STALE BREAD. When pounded or crumbled fine, and
boiled milk poured over it, it is nice. These crumbs, mixed with an
equal portion of stewed fruit and mixed well with common custard
and baked, make an excellent light pudding or custard. The cust-
ard, thickened with the crumbs without the fruit, forms a good pud-
ding, or remnants of fish, meat or fowl chopped fine and mixed
with such crumbs, with sufficient egg and a little butter, form a nice
meat pudding when baked. It should be floured. This can also
be dressed as hash with a little milk and water, salt and pepper in a
stew pan, or fried in small balls.
STALE BREAD EIGHT WAYS TO USE IT. i. To make dressing for
meat, crumble fine, turn hot broth over it, season, add butter and a
well-beaten egg or more, according to quantity. 2. To make bread-
pudding, soak two hours in sweet milk, then beat in eggs, sugar, spices
and bake ; fruit may be added if liked. 3. To make biscuit, soak
over night in sour milk, work with the hands, mix with your biscuit
for breakfast, adding salt, lard and soda ; they are better than with-
out the stale bread. 4. To make pancakes 01 gems, soak 10 hours
in sour milk, add well-beaten eggs, com meal or Graham flour
STALE BREAD. 223
to make a batter, add soda and salt and bake on a griddle or in
gem pans. 5. Crumb fine and put in the next omelet you make. 6.
Toast your bread ; set a pan of milk on the stove, but do not re-
move the cream from it, add butter and salt, dip the bread in this
and send to the table for supper or breakfast. 7. Crumb fine and
put in your tomatoes when you are stewing them. 8. Pound fine,
season and roll oyster or fish in them and fry in nice lard.
How TO SAVE STALE BREAD. Stale bread may be made as nicely
as if freshly-baked by dipping the loaf into clean cold water and
warming thoroughly in a bakeoven. Much bread might be saved in
this way.
STALE BREAD can be renewed by putting it for 20 minutes in a hot
stove or oven not too hot. It is best to put a damp cloth over it,
or moisten the bread with cold water and let it remain in the stove
or oven until the water is evaporated.
To FRESHEN STALE BREAD. Dip the loaf wrapped in a clean
cloth into boiling water for 1-2 a minute, then take off the cloth and
bake the loaf for 10 or 15 minutes in a slow oven.
BRKAD CRUMBS. Take a piece of the crust of a stale loaf, not
too hard, put it in a cloth, bruise it well with your hand till it falls in
crumbs, pass it through either a wire sieve or colander and use when
required.
To KEEP cold bread or cakes from becoming stale, keep them in
a common terre cotta or pottery jar, with a close cover of the same
over the top. The jar should be perfectly dry. This should be
seen to.
POTATO BREAD.
VIRGINIA GRANGER POTATO BREAD. Boil the potatoes not quite
so soft as common, then dry them a short time on the fire, peel them
while hot and pound them as fine as possible ; next put small quan-
tity of pearl ash to new yeast ; while it is working briskly add as
much rye meal or flour as can be worked in ; mix the whole well to-
gether, but do not add any water to it (but some butter or sweet
lard if desired). After the dough is thus prepared let it stand an
hour and a half or two hours before it is put in the oven. Observe
it will not require so long baking as regular wheat bread.
SWEET POTATO BREAD. Take the same dough of which you
make your family bread, leaving out one-fourth of the flour, putting
in the same quantity of Irish potatoes mashed very fine while hot, or
more ; if sweet potatoes, in the same way. Work thoroughly till
the potatoes are thoroughly incorporated, not forgetting a little lard
or butter and salt. N. B. When swept potatoes are boiled add a
224 POTATO BREAD.
*
piece of charcoal. If white Irish potatoes, add a pinch of soda.
The soda or charcoal improves them very much.
SWEET POTATO PONE (A Florida Recipe). Grate the sweet po-
tatoes, 2 cups flour, sweeten with molasses, sugar or honey to taste.
Bake a long time. May be eaten cold or warm.
To MAKE GOOD HOMEMADE BREAD. One quart of flour, i
large tablespoonful of solid brewer's yeast or nearly i ounce of fresh
Get man yeast, i 1-4 to i 1-2 pints of milk and water. Put the flour
into a large bowl or deep pan ; then with strong metal or wooden
spoon hollow out the middle, but do not clear it entirely away from
the bottom of the pan, as, in that case, the sponge (or leaven, as it
was formerly termed), would stick to it, which it ought not to do.
Next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer's yeast, which has
been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of cold water, (and
letting it afterwards stand to settle a day and night) ; or nearly an
ounce of German yeast; put it into a large basin, and proceed to
mix, so that it shall be as smooth as cream, with 3-4 of a pint of
warm inilk and" water, or with water only ; though even a very little
milk will improve the bread. Pour the yeast into the hole made in
the flour and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will
make a thick batter, in which there must be no lumps. Strew plenty
of flour on the top, throw a clean, thick cloth over and set it where
the air is warm, but do not place it upon the stove, for it will become
too much heated there. Look at it from time to time ; when it has
been lam for nearly an hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken
through the flour, so that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it
is ready to be made up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong
chair, or dresser, or table, of convenient height; pour into the sponge
the remainder of the warm milk and water; stir into it as much of
of the flour as you can with the spoon ; then wipe it out clean with
the fingers and lay it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining
flour, throw it on the top of the leaven, and begin with the knuckles
of both hands to knead it well. When the flour is nearly all kneaded
in, begin to draw the edges of the dough towards the middle, in
order to mix the whole thoroughly ; and when it is free from flour
and lumps and crumbs, and does not stick to the hands whentouchd,
it will be done, and may again be covered with the cloth and left to
rise a second time. In 3-4 of an hour look at it, and should it have
swollen very much and begin to crack, it will be light enough to bake.
Turn it then into a pasteboard or very clean dresser, and with a sharp
knife divide it in two, make it up quickly into loaves and dispatch
them to the oven ; make one or two incisions across the tops of the
loaves, as they will rise n>pre readily if this be done. If baked
in tins or pans rub them with a tiny piece of butter laid on a,
POTATO BREAD. 22$
^
piece of clean paper to prevent the dough from sticking to them.
All bread should be turned up side down, or on its side, as soon as
it is drawn from the oven. If this be neglected the under part of
the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam, which can-
not then escape from them To make the dough without setting
the sponge, merely mix the yeast with the gVeater part of the
warm milk and water, and wet up the whole with flour at once
after a little salt has been stirred in, proceeding exactly in every
other respect as in the directions just given. As the dough will
soften in the rising, it should be made quite firm at first, or it will
be too lithe by the time it is ready for the oven. Time to be left to
rise, i hour the first time ; 3-4 of an hour the second time ; to be
baked from i to i 1-4 hours, or baked in one loaf from i i-a to a
hours.
OAT MEAL AND BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
OAT MEAL CAKES (Scotch) FOR BREAKFAST. Put some oatmeal
in a bowl or basin, take a pitcherful of boiling water, with a tea-
spoonful of salt butter or melted lard in it, to make the cakes crisp ;
pour this boiling hot over the meal, stirring as quickly as possi-
ble into a dough, and then turning it out upon a baking board,
upon which it is to be rolled till it is as thin as it will hold to-
gether, when it is to be stamped into the form of small, round
cakes. These are first to be placed on a griddle to make them
firm, and afterwards toasted before the fire alternately on each
side, till they are quite dry and crisp.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES. One quart of buckwheat flour, one half
cup yeast, one tablespoonful of salt, one and one-half basin water ;
beat well with a large spoon ; let them rise over night ; in the
morning add a teaspoonful of salaratus and fry.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES No. 2. Three pints of buckwheat flour
sifted, a little salt, 1-2 pint of cornmeal, 1-2 teacup of brewer's
yeast or 4 large tablespoonfuls home-made yeast, and enough milk-
warm water to make a batter. Mix all together, then make a hole
in the middle of the meal and pour in the yeast. Then slowly add
sufficient milk and warm water to make a thick batter after the yeast
is added. Cover the vessel and let it rise for 3 hours. If it is cov-
ered with bubbles and risen enough it is ready to bake. Have your
griddle clean and hot. Tie a piece of batter in a clean white rag
and grease the griddle well ; have a saucer near to put it in when
not in use. Pour out a large ladleful on the griddle to bake ; when
brown turn with the cake turner, and bake brown on the other side.
Scrape the griddle smooth with a knife, 'wipe, and grease it between
126 OAT MEAL AND BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
baking each cake, and as fast as one is done butter it, and put it on
the other in a hot plate. If the cakes are large cut them across in
four pieces. Trim off the edges before sending them to the table,when
re-buttered they can be re-battered if wished. If the batter has been
made the night before and found sour in the morning,add 1-4 teaspoon
of soda or saleratus dissolved in a little warm water; stir it in, and let
it stand i hour before baking. The alkali will neutralize the acid,
and increase the lightening of the batter. If soda be used, add t
teaspoonful. The batter should not be allowed to freeze, as it will
not be fit for use. No animal fat should be used to grease the
griddle.
INDIAN AND PUMPKIN CAKES. Stir an equal portion of cornmeal
into an equal portion of stewed pumpkin that has been well mashed
and drained in a cloth or collender, in a pan, adding the meal gra-
dually; add 1-2 cup butter, mix thoroughly. If not stiff enough,
add more meal to form a dough. Make it into cakes or loaves,
Bake them on a hot griddle well greased,with butter, as for muffins, or
in an iron pan, in an oven; bake them in loaves. Serve hot and eat
with butter or milk
RICE BREAD.
RICE BREAD. Boil gently over a slow fire one pound and a half
of rice till it becomes perfectly soft, then make into a paste by beat-
ing it. While warm mix it into four pounds of flour, adding the
usual quantity of yeast. Set it to rise in a warm place ; after divide
it into loaves, and it will be found when baked to be very nice
bread.
RICE BREAD. Three teacups of rice flour, i of wheat flour, i
heaping teaspoonful of cream tartar rubbed in the flour, 2 or 3 eggs
well beaten, a tablespoonful of lard or butter, 1-2 teaspoonful of
soda and sweet milk enough to make the batter smooth and of the
consistency of pound cake.
RICE PAN BREAD. Two tablespoonfuls of hot hominy, i spoon-
ful of butter ; when cold, add 2 capfuls of rice flour, and make a
batter with sweet milk and bake in a moderate oven.
RICE AND WHEAT FLOUR BREAD. Simmer i Ib. rice in 1-2 gallon
of water till it becomes perfectly soft ; when it is of proper warmth,
mix it extremely well with 5 pounds of flour, 4 large spoonfuls of
yeast. Knead it well, then set it to rise in a warm place or before
the fire. Some of the flour should be reserved to make up the
loaves. If the rice, in boiling, should swell so as to require more
water, add it ; do not have the water too hot, but ptmr in gradually.
Stir with a wooden or iron spoon so as to form a soft dough. Cover
RICE BREAD. 227
the pan and set it away; if cold, by the fire. In the morning pour
in another pint of warm water in which 1-2 teaspoonful of soda has
been dissolved, so as to form a batter. Beat the batter hard, set it
before the fire or stove for fifteen minutes before baking. Let the
cakes be thin. Eat them hot with honey, butter, sugar or molasses,
ITALIAN BREAD. Boil the rice flour or chestnut meal as oatmeal
porridge, then turn it out on a dish and cut in slices with a twine
string and serve for breakfast ; very nice.
RICE CORN BREAD. Take one pint of well boiled rice, one pint
of cornmeal, one ounce of butter, two eggs, one pint of sweet milk,
two teaspoons of baking powder ; beat the eggs very light, then
add the milk and melted butter ; beat the rice until perfectly smooth
and add to the eggs and milk, Lastly, add the cornmeal ; beat all
together until very light.
EGG BREAD. Use from one to as many eggs well beaten as you
can afford for the quantity of cornmeal designed to be used, or 3
eggs to i quart, 1-2 cupful of fresh butter, salt to taste, i cup of
milk or more, mix the eggs and milk together, gradually stirring in
the meal", then add the salt and butter. It must be a thick batter,
but thin enough to be stirred easily with a spoon. If too stiff more
milk can be added; it must be beaten well to have all the ingredi-
ents thoroughly blended. This can be put in a buttered tin or iron
pan as one loaf, or they can be divided into smaller loaves. The
oven should be moderately hot at first, and the heat increased after-
wards. It should bake in proportion to thickness from 11-2 to 2
hours. In baking good bread nothing has taken the place of the
Dutch oven. The loaf can be cut at the table and eaten hot with
butter, sugar or molasses.
EGG WHEAT BREAD. Four cups flour, 2 cups cornmeal, 1.2 cup
of butter or. lard, 4 eggs, salt to taste, one cup of new milk ; mix
the eggs, butter, milk and salt and beat till light. Stir while gradu-
ally adding the flour and meal, then bake in buttered pans as for egg
bread. Bread can be made of coarse brown flour in the same
way.
AERATED BREAD No. i. A process has recently been patented for
making bread "light" without the use of leaven. It is done by the ap-
plication of machinery, by which means carbonic acid gas or fixed
air is made to impregnate the bread. Thus the long and tedious
and fatiguing manual process of kneading the dough in order that
it might be thoroughly inter-penetrated with the leavening principle
is set aside, thus emancipating the housewife and baker from a vast
amount of labor. There are, however, different opinions about
the bread, but why may not the process of bread making and
baking undergo a change as well as other things, for wheat, corn,&c.,
228 RICE BREAD.
were once reaped by the hands ? The only agents employed in the
production of aerated bread by machinery are wheaten flour, salt,
water and generated corbonic acid gas, which is the source of effer-
vescence, and its action on the new bread takes the place of the old.
It is the same gas, whether coming from aerated drinks or lemon-
ade, in common water coming from the lowest excavations.
In this aerated process the kneading is done by mixing the dougn
in a great iron ball, inside of which is perpetually passing a system of
peddles, a light nice looking dough is soon produced. This is caught
in thus, and passed into the floor of the oven, which is an endless floor,
when the loaves emerge from the other end of the apartment, when
the aerated bread is done or made. NOTE It is sometimes a good
plan to change one's baker from time to time, and so secure a
change in the quality of the bread that is eaten.
FRENCH APPLE BREAD. One-third warm pulp of apple, two-thirds
of flour and the usual quantity, of yeast (the apples should be boiled) ;
work all well together, then set to rise in a vessel to its utmost for
eight or twelve hours ; then form into long, low loaves ; bake thor-
ough in a moderate oven.
N. B. Little or no water or milk is necessary ; add salt to taste ;
eat hot with milk, butter or coffee.
APPLE BREAD, RUSSTAN FASHION. (Mrs. B.) Put 11-2 cups of
good white sugar fn 3 cups of water in a copper preserving pan with a
round bottom ; set it on a quick fire and reduce it so that it will snap
between your fingers ; having peeled and cut Into slices two dozen
good, sound, ripe apples, put them into the sugar, stirring constantly
till it becomes quite a thick marmalade ; remove it from the fire, pour
it into a slightly oiled or buttered colander mould; shake it well
down, then set it to cool, when turn it out on a dish, then melt in a
stew-pan over the fire ; a few spoonfuls of currant jelly; add 2 glasses
of old, good rum, and when partly cold pour over and serve with
whipped cream in the center, in which you have placed 4 ounces of
candied orange flowers. What remains over will make delightful
croquettes.
APPLE CORN BREAD. Two pints each of new corn meal and
sweet milk, i quart of finely chopped mellow apples and a teaspoon-
ful of salt. Bake in a quick oven ; eaten hot at any meal with but-
ter, milk coffee or gravy.
LEMON BREAD. (Mrs. Kull, of Hamburg.) Four whole eggs, the
yolks of 4, i pound wet sugar, and lemon chopped very fine ; 4 oz
citron chopped fine, 6 oz. flour well worked or beaten ; roll on a
board thin ; cut out in shon and bake. *
CHOCOLATE BREAD. (Mrs. Kull, of Hamburg.) Two eggs bea-
ten to snow 1-2 pound sugar, 4 ounces chocolate, a little vanilla to
RICE BREAD. 22Q
flavor with sufficient flour to cut into form. Frost with sugar and
bake in a moderate stove.
MIXED BREAD. One half gallon of meal and i pint of bread
sponge ; soak sufficiently to wet the whole; add i cup of flour and
a tablespoonful of salt ; let it rise, then knead it well the second
time, and place the dough in the oven and bake one hour and a
half.
CORN BREAD. A heaping cupful of corn meal, scald it with hot
water, 2 cupfuls of cooked hominy, 2 eggs and a cupful of milk and
some butter ; stir well, then butter and bake in a pan or shaper.
PUMPKIN BREAD, Mash the cooked pumpkin very fine and strain
through a colander, then work in either corn or wheat flour and add
yeast as you would to wheat bread ; add a little butter or lard, work
it thoroughly, then let rise, and bake as other bread. It is best to
grease the pan before putting the dough in.
BREAD SNOW RAISED. It has been discovered that snow incor-
porated with flour or corn meal performs the same office as yeast or
baking powder ; add enough snow, say a heaping spoonful into dry
flour or meal, to which has been added a little butter and salt ; set
in the oven at once and bake 3-4 hours. I speak from experi-
ence.
FOR BREAKFAST, CRACKLING OR SHORT CORN BREAD. Take the
desired quantity of meal and cracklings or lard, accoading to the
richness, a spoonful of salt (more or less), pour in warm water and
knead the dough, then bake brown in a moderately hot oven. Not
often eaten with butter, but it is excellent to eat with good coffee.
Bake in small or large loaves not too hard.
FINE FRENCH BREAD. Take i gallon of the finest flour, and,
having well-sifted it into a kneading trough, form a ravity in the flour,
into which strain i cupful of warm milk and the choicest yeast ;
mix some of the surrounding flour so as to form a light sponge,
then having covered it up with a linen and a flannel cloth, place it
before the fire to lise for 45 minutes; and, having warmed i 1-2
pints of milk with i cup of water, 1-4 pound of fresh butter, a spoon-
ful of powdered sugar (loaf), and a little salt, knead it to a proper
consistency and place it again before the fire. After once more
kneading it and placing it to rise, form the dough into loaves, bricks
or rolls of one size or shape and lay them on tin plates ; set them
before the fire to rise for 20 minutes, and, having baked them in a
quick oven, let the crust be rasped or chipped off while hot. Some
persons put in butter and eggs, leaving out the whites.
To MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD. Three pounds of potatoes,
6 pints uf coldwater, 1-2 pint of good yeast, i peck ot flour, 2 oz.
of salt. Peel and boil the potatoes ; beat them to a cream while
230 DUMPLINGS.
warm ; then add i pint of cold water, strain through a colander and
add to it 1-2 pint of good yeast, which should have been put in
water over night to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with
a wooden spoon, and pour the mixture into the center of the flour;
mix it to the consistency of cream, cover it over closely and let it
remain near the fire for an hour ; then add the 6 pints oi water and milk
warm with 2 oz. of salt ; pour this in and mix the whole to a nice,
light dough. Let it remain for about 2 hours ; then make it into 7
loaves and bake for about i 1-2 hours in a good oven. When baked
the bread should weigh nearly 20 pounds. Bake 11-2 hours.
SWIFT YEAST BREAD. -Grate 1-2 a dozen potatoes and add i quart of
water; put in i cup of hop yeast at night, and in the morning,
when light, add 3 teaspoonfuls of sugar, and flour to form a dough,
when put it in tins ; let it rise again and bake for 1-2 an hour.
DUMPLINGS.
SUET AND CURRANT DUMPLINGS. Of grated bread 2 cupfuls, 2 of
currants picked, washed and dried, 6 oz suet chopped very fine and
put in a small portiqn of hot water, 3-4 of a cup of flour, a^great deal
of grated lemon peeling, a bit of sugar and a little piminto in fine
powder; mix with 2 eggs and a little milk into dumplings and fry of
yellow brown in boiling lard or cotton seed oil. Made with flour
instead of bread, but 1-2 the quantity, they are excellent. Serve
with sweet sauce flavored to taste.
APPLE DUMPLINGS. Make the paste as for pies, then pare and
core nice, sound, ripe apples (on account of the flavor some prefer
not to take the core out), inclose them in the dough paste and dip
them into boiling water. They will soon be done, and should not
be permitted to burst open. Eat them hot with sauce as for boiled
dumplings. Flour stirred into boiling water, or the paste made with
hot water, or with Irish potatoes and a little salt, is very good mashed
to a cream while hot, and mixed with the flour and hot water form
a paste without lard or butter. Eat with a rich sauce flavored with
lemon peel.
LEMON DUMPLINGS. Take the juice and rind of a lemon and
1-2 pound of bread; grate both very fine, and add 1-2 pound of suet,
chopped fine, 4 oz. moist sugar, mix all well together, put it in tea-
cups tied on with cloths and boil them.
YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a very light dough with yeast, as for
bread, but with milk instead of water, and put in salt ; let it rise an
hour before the fire. Twenty minutes before you are to serve have
ready a large stew-pan of boiling water ; make the dough into balls
the st^q of a middling apple ; throw them in and boil ?Q minutes.
DUMPLINGS. 231
If you doubt whether done enough, stick a straw or clean knife or
into one, and if it come out clean it is done. The way to eat them
is to tear them apart at the top with two forks, for they become heavy
by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat or sugar and but-
ter or salt.
CHARLESTON DUMPLINGS. Make a good, thick batter, as for pan-
cakes, drop it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. When the dump-
lings are done, which will be in 2 or 3 minutes, throw them into a
sieve to drain, and then turn them into a dish. Eat with sugar and
butter and grated lemon peel.
SNOW DUMPLINGS. Pare and core several apples ; wash a pint of
rice and roll the apples in it, so that the rice will adhere ; have ready
a nice piece of pie crust, wrap the apples in a piece of the dough
and roll the dumplings in rice again, and so on until you use up all
the apples. Put a napkin in the steamer, place it over a pot of boil-
ing water, put in the dumplings and steam till done. Eat with cream
sauce. Mrs. Genett.
CHERRY DUMPLINGS. Strew cherries on pie-paste rolled thin. The
seeds may or may not be removed, then rolled up and boiled as for
boiled lemon dumplings ; 1-2 pound grated bread, 1-4 each chop-
ped suet and moist sugar, 2 eggs, i large lemon. Mix the bread,
suet and moist sugar well together, adding the lemon peeling, which
should be finely minced. Moisten with the eggs and strained lemon
juice ; stir it well and put the mixture into small buttered cups. Tie
them down and boil for 3-4 of an hour. Turn them out on a dish,
strew sifted sugar over them and serve with wine sauce. Boil 3-4
of an hour. Sufficient for 6 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.
CORN MEAL DUMPLINGS. Make a thick dough of i pint of meal
and scalding water, i spoonful of lard, a large pinch each of salt
and soda. Put in a bag and boil i hour. Serve hot for dinner with
gravy or meat.
GREEN CORN DUMPLINGS. A quart of grated green corn or roast-
ing ears, 1-2 pint of new milk or cream, i cup of flour, 2 cups of
butter, 2 eggs, a pinch each of salt and pepper, and butter for frying.
Mix the corn with the flour and add the salt and pepper. The corn
should be grated very fine. Warm the milk and soften the butter in
it, then add them gradually to the. pan of corn, stirring it very hard
and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs till light, and stir them into
the mixture when it has cooled. Flour your hands and roll it into
little dumplings. Put into a frying-pan a sufficiency of lard or but-
ter, or an equal proportion of both, and when it is boiling hot and
has been skimmed, drop the. dumplings carefully in and fry them 10
or 12 minutes in proportion to their thickness.
Sue.'!' DUMPLINGS. Chop very fine i pound of beef suet ; mix
232 DUMPLINGS.
with i 1-2 pounds of flour, 2 eggs beaten separately, a little salt and
just enough milk to make it. Make them flat as large as a coffee
cup and as thick as you like, or roll them into balls and drop them
in boiling water or into the boiling of beef, or you may roll the paste
into a long dumpling and boil it in a cloth wrapped closely around
it. Eat with sauce.
BREAD AND SUET DUMPLINGS. Take 1-2 pound of grated bread,
i - 2 pound of beef suet chopped very fine, the juice and grated rind of
i lemon, 4 oz. of moist sugar and 2 eggs. Mix all together and make
5 dumplings; boil them in cloths 1-2 an hour and serve with sweet,
rich sauce.
PASTE DUMPLINGS. The paste made as for boiled dumplings and
rolled very thin, then put a mere trifle of butter over the paste and roll
up and boil. Eat in the same manner with seasoned sauce as for
boiled dumplings.
BOILED DUMPLINGS.- -Beat the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites
separately, as for pound cake, then add a little salt, flour, i cup of
butter to the yolks of the eggs and stir till smooth ; then add the
whites and more flour until it is stifl enough to be be rolled out with
a rollingpin on a floured pasteboard; then roll it up and put it into
a bag and wrap it closely, so that it may not spread. It is better to
sew it in. Boil 3-4 of an hour. Unwrap it and lay it on a dish,
slice and eat hot with a rich sauce also hot, or with a sauce of cream
and sugar, or butter and sugar cold. Season to taste.
HARD DUMPLINGS One pound of flour, 1-2 pint of water, 1-2
teaspoonful salt. Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste,
previously adding a small quantity of salt. Turn this into small
round dumpings; drop them into boing water and boil from 12 to
3-4 of an hour. They may be served with roast or bored meat; in
the latter case they may be cooked with the meat, but should be
dropped into the water when it is quite boiling. Boil from 1-2 to
3-4 of an hour. Sufficient for 10 or 12 dumplings.
GREEN PEACH OR APPLE DUMPLINGS. The paste made as above.
If the fruit be stewed, take a spoon or your hand and put it smooth-
ly on the paste, and roll it up, or if used before cooking, Chop them
first very fine and put the particles uniformly on the paste and roll
up and boil. Any kind of marmalade, apple butter, preserves, jel-
lies, sweetmeats or dried fruits chipped very fine, or raisins can be
used in the same manner and eaten with the sauce desired.
PANCAKES.
FRENCH PANCAKES. Put in a basin 1-4 Ib. sifted flour, i egg, 1-4
gill of milk ; stir to a smooth paste, then add 1-2 a pint of milk, i
spoonful fresh butter, melted, and x small pinch of salt ; mix well
PANCAKES. 233
and if lumpy strain through the pointed strainer. Put a small piece
of butter in a pancake pan ; when melted pour in 2 tablespoonfuls
of the batter. Spread it so as to cover the pan entirely fry till color,
ed on one side, then toss it over and cook the other side, and turn
the pancake out on a dich. When all the batter is used in this way,
sprinkle the pancakes with sugar and se'rve on a hot dish with a cut
lemon. Pancakes should be eaten as soon as fried.
COMMON PANCAKES. Take 4 spoonfuls of fine flour, 4 eggs well
beaten together, then add i cup of milk, i cup of butter, then beat
again. Fry them with lard or dripping. Sugar and lemon, molasses
or sugar and vinegar should be served to eat with them ; or when
eggs are scarce, make the batter with flour, small beer and ginger,
or clean snow, with flour and a very little milk will serve, but not as
well as eggs.
CALIFONIA PANCAKES. Beat 10 eggs with a little of the best
brandy, and i pound of the best flour; mix 12 ounces of butter
melted in a pint of cream or rich new sweet milk, a little salt and
nutmeg; when almost cold mix all together with 3-4 cup of fine su-
gar and fry them in a dry pan without the addition of fat. Let the
pan be hot when you begin ; when you begin fry them only on one
side; as you lay them on the dish strew powdered sugar between
each pancake, and when they are all done turn them upside down
in another dish, that the brown side may be uppermost. Sprinkle
fine sugar over that and garnish with cut lemon.
FIRST RATE CORN BREAD. Known in the South as egg bread.
Pour enough boiling water on a quart of white corn meal to make
an ordinary mush ; add 5 well beaten eggs, a quarter of a pound of
butter, or the same quantity of lard and butter mixed - a pint and a
half of milk, two cupfuls of boiled grits or small hominy. Stir all
together until it is perfectly smooth, and it must be about as stiff as
batter ; bake it slowly in shallow tin pans. This quantity is enough
for a large family. Mrs. James D. Thompson.
To MAKE PANCAKES. Eggs, flour, milk ; to every egg allow i
ounce of flour, about i-4th pint of milk, i pinch of salt ; be certain
that theaeggs are fresh ; break each one separately in a cup, whisk
them well, put them into a basin with the flour and the salt and a
few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter ;
then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proper hin of
the latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs,
&c., &c., but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the con-
sistency of thick cream. Place a small frying pan on the fire to get
hot; let it be delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and when
quite hot put in a small piece of butter, allowing 1-2 ounce to each
pancake. When it is melted pour in the butter, about 1-2 teacupful
234 PANCAKBS.
batter to a pan 5 inches in diameter, and fry about 4 minutes, or un-
til it is nearly brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quan-
tity of batter, and so making the pancake thin,the necessity of turning
them (an operation rather difficult to some skillful cooks), is avoided.
When the pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar,
roll it up in the pan and take it oui with a large slice and place it on
a dish before the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficiently
cooked for a dish ; then send them quickly to table, and continue to
send in a further quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten
almost immediately as they come from the frying pan. The batter
may be flavored with a little grated lemon rind, or the pancake may
have preserves rolled in them instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar
and a cut of lemon to table with them. To make pancakes fry
light, the yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately
arjd the whites added the last thing to the batter before frying. From
3 to 5 minutes for a pancake that does not require turning ; from 5
to 8 minutes for a thicker one. Allow 3 eggs with the other ingre-
dients in proportion for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time, but es-
pecially served on Shrove Tuesday.
PANCAKE BATTER may be made in the same way. Eggs, if not
well beaten, makes the batter tough.
PANCAKE WITH MARMALADE. Put 4 ounces of sifted flour into a
basin with 4 eggs; mix them together very smoothly, then add 1-2
cup of milk or cream and a little grated nutmeg; put a piece of but-
ter in your pan (it requires just a little); when quite hot put in two
tablespoonfuls of the mixture and let it spread all over the pan;
place it upon the fire, and when colored upon one side turn it over;
then turn it upon your cloth. Proceed thus till they are all done,
then spread apricot or other marmalade over and roll them up
neatly; lay them upon a baking sheet; sifted sugar over; glaze nicely
with a salamander and serve upon a napkin. The above may be
served with sugar, molasses, syrup or honey with the marmalade.
RICE PANCAKES. To a half a pound of rice put nearly 2 cups of
cold water and boil to a jelly; take off and work to a pulp with a
wooden spoon; as soon as cold put this into 8 well beaten ggs, 2
cups of cream, 1-2 pound of melted butter, a little salt and nutmeg;
beat it till of a smooth batter, adding the butter last. Fry in as little
sweet lard or cotton seed oil as possible.
RICE PANCAKES. Boil 1-2 pound of rice to a jelly with a little
water, and when cold mix with it a pint of cream, 8 eggs, a small
matter of salt and some nutmeg. Stir in 1-2 pound of batter just
warmed and as much flour as will thicken the batter. Fry them
in very little leaf lard or drippings or cotton seed oil.
CREAM PANCAKES. Mix the yolks of two eggs with 1-2 pint of
MEAT AND SAVORY PUDDINGS. 235
cream, 1-2 cup sugar, some cinnamon beating, mace and nutmeg;
fry them as quick as pQssible and grate over them some lump
sugar.
PANCAKES. Beat whites of 4 eggs, the yolks of two, flour, salt
into a smooth batter; then beat to a froth 8 or 10 eggs with 3
ounces of sugar; fry in a pan on the top of the stove one or two
minutes, and place on the fried pancake and serve hot.
JELLY PANCAKES. Make a batter of 6 eggs and a pint of flour ;
add a teaspoonful of salt, enough sweet milk to make a smooth bat-
ter, beat thoroughly and fry with sweet lard; when one is done and
taken up, spread on a plate; on this spread jelly or jam thinly, then
roll up like a scroll; place on a napkin on a hot plate; put the pan-
cake on when you have enough served.
PINK PANCAKES. Boil, till tender, a large blood beet root, bruise
it in a marble mortar, put to it the yolks of 4 eggs, 2 spoonfuls of
flour, 3 of cream, 1-2 grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, a glass of
brandy; mix well together; fry them carefully in a frying pan slightly
greased with a tittle sweet lard. Serve them up with a garnish of
green sweet meats. A mite of cochineal may serve for coloring.
MEAT AND SAVORY PUDDINGS.
LIVER PUDDINGS. Wash and thoroughly clean the entrails; boi!
the liver till it will grate or pound ; take an equal quantity of minced
suet and liver, chop an onion or two, season with black pepper, salt
and a little thyme rubbed small ; half-fill the entrails, cut them into
proper lengths and fasten the ends. Let them boil a little and prick
them to keep them from bursting, When done* lay them to cool ;
broil and serve them at table. The French prepare many delicacies
expensive, and different puddings in skins, but with more trouble
than our mode of making them.
MUTTON PUDDING. Season with salt, pepper and a small onion ;
lay one layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish and pour a batter
of potatoes boiled and pressed through a colander and mixed with
milk and an egg over them ; then put in the rest of the steaks and
batter and bake them. Batter, with flour instead of potatoes, eats well,
but requires more eggs, and is not so good.
MUTTON PUDDING, No. 2. Cut slices of the leg of mutton that
has been underdone and put them into a basin lined with a fine
suet crust ; season with pepper, salt and finely-chopped onion or
shalot.
PORK PUDDING. The cuttings of pork which are spared when
the pig is to be salted, which are quite lean, are best for a pudding.
Take 11-2 Ibs. of the meat, seasoned with a teaspoonful of salt, 1-3
236 MEAT AJ&D SAVORY PUDDINGS.
as much pepper, a teaspoonful each of chopped onion, sage and ap-
ple. Put into the paste with 1-2 a pint of water. Tie up and boil
i 1-2 or 2 hours.
POTATO PUDDING WITH MEAT. Boil the potatoes till fit to mash ;
rub through a colander and make a thick batter with milk and 2 eggs;
lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then some batter, and over the
last layer put the remainder of the batter. Bake a fine brown.
MOTHER EVE'S PUDDING. Grate 3-4 lb. bread, mix it with the
same quantity of suet chopped fine, the same of apples and currants;
mix with these the whole of 4 eggs and the rind of 1-2 a lemon
(hopped fine. Put it into a shape ; boil 3 hours and serve with
pudding sauce the juice of 1-2 a lemon and a little nutmeg.
CHEESE PUDDING. Mix together 1-2 lb grated cheese, 4 eggs
well-beaten, and 1-2 pint of milk. Mix well and serve with a little
salt. Bake in a buttered dish, putting some slices of toasted bread
at the bottom of the dish, or omit them as you may fancy.
HUNTER'S PUDDING. Mix i lb. each of suet, flour, currants,
raisins stoned, cut up the rind of 1-2 a lemon pared as
fine as possible ; 6 Jamaica peppers in fine powder, 4 eggs, a glass
of brandy, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it to a proper
consistency ; boil in a floured cloth or lemon mould 8 or 9 huurs.
Serve with sweet sauce. Add sometimes a spoonful of peach brandy
for change of flavor. This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six
months, if kept tied up in the same cloth and hung up, folded in a
sheet of cap paper to preserve it from dust, being first cold. When
to be used it must be boiled a full hour.
BLACK PUDDING Take i 1-2 pints of pig's blood; add to it 1-2
pint of boiled cream, i lb. of the inside fat of the pig, cut into small
slices ; cut 3 onions also in slices and fry them in 2 oz. butter till of
a yellow color ; season with i oz. salt, a small pinch of pepper, a
little grated nutmeg, a sprig of thyme and 1-2 a bay leaf, chopped
very fine; mix all well together, and fill the skins, previously well-
cleaned and washed, with this mixture, raking care not to have the
skins so full not to allow of tying them with a string into 5-inch
lengths. When thus tied put them in a large stew-pan of boiling
water, and without boiling them, let them remain therein till firm ;
take them out and hang them to cool. When wanted they should
be cut into lengths, well scored with a knife to prevent breaking, and
broiled on a medium fire for 10 minutes, turning them over after
5 minutes' broiling, then serve very hot.
FRENCH BLACK PUDDING. Boil 12 onions in. broth with parsely,
young onions, basil, thyme, sage and a bay leaf; chop them very
fine; take 2 quarts of blood that has been properly taken from the
throat of the hog or other animal ; put in a little vinegar to prevent
MEAT AND SAVORY PUDDINGS. 2^7
it from curdling ; cut i 1-2 rounds of the caul in slices ; put it into
the blood with 2 quarts of cream, hash fine herbs, fine pepper, spices
and salt. Mix all together; take the chittlings of hogs or sheep,
which must be well scraped and cleaned, fill them with a filler, but
do not make them too full, otherwise they might break ; tie them in
proper lengths ; put them into a pot of warm warm water, and do
them over a slow fire to prevent their breaking ; turn them carefully
with a skimmer ; if they are pricked and the fat comes out they are
sufficiently done. Take them up on a cloth and let them cool.
When they are to be sent to the table slit and grill them.
WHITE HOG'S PUDDING. Take 4 Ibs. beef suet shreded fine, 3 Ibs.
of grated bread and 2 Ibs. of currants picked and washed, i tea-
spoonful each of finely beaten cloves, mace and cinnamon, salt, i 1-2
Ibs. sugar, i pint of wine, i quart of cream, some rosewater, and 20
well-beaten eggs, using only half the whites. Mix these well and fill up
the cleaned, well-washed and soaked entrails, boil them a little and
prick them, take them up when done and lay them away or hang
them up to dry.
ClNDONILLES, OR CHITTLINGS, A LA BECHAMILLE. Put a bit of
butter into a stew-pan, with a slice of ham, 3 large shalots, parsley,
young onions, a clove of garlics, thyme, basit and bay ; put them
upon a slow fire; let them sweat 1-4 of an hour; moisten with
a quart of milk; let them boil and reduce one-half; pass it through
a search ; put in a large handful of the crumbs of bread and make
boil until the crumbs have taken up all the milk ; cut fillets of fresh
pork, caul, bits of lard, and veal lights, head and sweetbread ; mix all
with the bread and 6 eggs, fine spices and salt, fill the puddings or
entrails ; tie and cook them in 1-2 milk and 1-2 fat broth, salt, pep-
per and a bunch of parsely and young onions. Serve as directed for
pig's chittlings.
VEAL CHnTLiNGS. Take a veal's fraise or pluck (lights, heart
and sweetbread), blanch or parboil them 15 or 20 minutes and cut
them up in small pieces and add i Ib. of fat cut in the same manner;
mix the whole with salt, fine spices, some shalots, 4 spoonfuls of rich
cream and the yolks of 4 eggs ; use pig's puddings or entrails and sim-
mer them in rich broth, a bottle of white wine, a clove of garlic, thyme,
basil, bay and a bunch of parsley and young onions ; let them cool
in their seasoning. Nick them a little ; grill and serve.
FISH PUDDING. Pound some cold fish in a mortar with a few
spoonfuls of broth ; add a small lump of butter and some crumbs
of bread ; mix it with the yolks of 4 eggs previously well beaten
and rub it through a sieve into a basin with the whites of the eggs
also.
238 MEAT AND FOWL PUDDING.
MEAT AND FOWL PUDDING.
HASHED FOWL PUDDING. Boil 12 onions and make a very dry
panada of cream ; put the onions with it into a mortar, adding sweet
almonds that have been put through a search ; mix all together ;
add some raw yolks of eggs, put, cut into squares, white roasted
fowls hashed very fine; pound all together and moisten with warm,
rich cream, season with salt and fine spices ; taste if it is good, and
fill the skins. These do not require as much cooking as the black
pudding. Instead of water use milk. Let them cool and prick
them with a fork, instead of cutting, before they are put upon the
grill. The best manner of doing them is to put them into a white pa-
per case and broil them.
BAKED CHICKEN PUDDING. Cut up 2 or more young chickens as
for frying. Stew them till half-done in a small quantity of water,
then take the chickens up to cool, and the liquor also ; meanwhile
get ready a batter of 6 or 7 eggs, 2 pints of milk, i Ib of flour and
some salt. Beat thoroughly till smooth; then fill up a baking-pan
or dish with a layer of chicken and batter alternately. Let the top
layer be of batter. Bake till done of a light brown ; then pour the
chicken gravy into a sauce-pan, on the stove, stirring into it an egg
as it boils.
Serve at once in a sauce-tureen. With the pudding it is excellent.
LARK AND BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. Make a paste with 3-4 of a Ib. of
dry beef suet chopped fine and i Ib. of flour, with a little lard or butter,
then make into a stiff paste with cold water or lukewarm milk; work
it well, rolling it out 2 or 3 times with the rollingpin, or omit it, as it
will then" be lighter for pudding. Then take 6 or 8 larks and roast
them; take off the flesh and pick out the sinews, break the bones
and put them in a stew-pan and hash them with the livers and flesh
and nice beefsteak, with a little suet, if approved, an onion or two ;
then put a layer of the paste in the bottom of the dish ; then put in
the hash, with milk and butter, a little black pepper; cover the
whole basin with the suet paste ; pinch the edges to keep the gravy
in, and let it bake slowly for 2 hours or more
RABBIT PUDDING. Roast a young rabbit or squirrel; take off the
flesh, pick out the sinews, hash it with the liver very fine, break the
bones and put them into a stew-pan, moisten with rich panada gravy
seasoned ; let it boil to draw the flavor, with which a panada is to be
made ; pound the meat and panada together, add 1-3 butter,
that is to say, an equal part of the three ingredients, and fine minced
onions that have been stewed in gravy, 6 raw yolks of eggs, rich
cold cream, as much as necessary to make the whole to the con-
MEAT AND FOWL PUDDING. 230
sistency of pudding ; add fine spices, salt, pepper and nutmeg ; mix
all well together, and fill the skins and tie and put them in a white
paper case before they are put upon the grill.
ENGLISH BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. From a Temple Bar Cook.
(Olive Logan.) Make a crust of 1-2 pound suet chopped fine, i Ib.
of flour, 1-2 spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of baking powder
mixed together and sufficient cold water added to make a stiff paste.
2d, cut 1-2 of the paste for the cover of the pudding basin in which
the pudding is to be boiled; roll the rest of the paste to the size
required to line the pudding basin; grease the basin with butter and
lay the paste in neatly. 3d, take 2 pounds of beef cut in slices; dip
each slice in flour as you lay it in the basin, along with 2 kindings
also sliced; a little chopped parsley, a bit of good butter the size of
an egg, a few drops of Worcester sauce, a teacupful of water, 1-2
spoonful each of salt and pepper, 4lh, Roll out the paste
cover to the size of the top of the basin, then lay the cover on and
press the edges together; dip your nice clean pudding cloth in boil-
ing water, flour it, tie it over the top of the basin. 5th, place the
basin in a saucepan of boiling water and keep boiling 4 hours. For
serving take off the cloth, turn the basin over a nice warm plate and
remove the basin. This leaves your pudding the round pudding
shape on top, though the bottom is flat. When you stick your spoon
in the gravy it will run out luscious and healthy, and the meat within
be as tender as a young chicken. I should perhaps mention that the
pudding basin referred to is a bowl of crockery holding a quart with
a thick rim around the top, which makes it easy to tie the cloth on
with a string. Enough for four persons.
BAKED BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. Make a batter of milk, 2 eggs and
flour, or which is better, potatoes boiled and mashed through a col-
lender; lay a little batter on the bottom of the dish, then put in the
steaks prepared as above and very well seasoned; pour the remainder
of the batter over them and bake it.
BOILED STEAK OR KIDNEY PUDDING. If made of kidney split and
soak it and season that or the meat. Make a paste of suet, flour
or cotton seed oil and milk, roll it, and line a basin with some; put
the kidneys or steaks in, cover it with paste, and pinch round the
edge. Cover with a cloth and boil a considerable time. It should
be well seasoned with pepper, salt; butter, cream, fillets of fat pork
or bacon or sweet lard.
SUET PUDDING (English.) Two pounds of flour or bread crumbs,
i pound of chopped beef suet, i or 2 eggs, a pinch of salt, i gill of
milk or water, and i cup of sugar or honey if wished. This prepar-
ation of ingredients will do for a large family, and can be propor-
tioned to suit the number of persons to be served. Stir up the flour
240 SWEET PUDDINGS.
and minced suet together, then whisk the eggs and add them with a
little salt to the minced suet and flour, then the water or milk, and
make a paste with a strong wooden spoon; then dust your pudding
bag or cloth with flour; lay your paste into it and sew or tie the cloth
tight, and lay it into boiling water; when done, after boiling 11-4
hour, plunge the bag into cold water a moment, then serve very hot
by turning it out on a hot dish. If desired, eat with any kind of sweet
sauce.
OAT MEAL AND SUET PUDDING. Chop fine 1-2 pound of suet, add
2 pounds of oat meal, an onion or 2 sliced, season with pepper and
salt, and fill the skins or entrails as before. The oat meal should
be dried well before using.
FRUIT AND SUET PUDDING. Mince an equal quantity of beef
suet and apples, grate some stale bread, pick and wash some dried
currents, i pound raw sugar, nutmeg and cinnamon, and grate a piece
of lemon peel. All to taste. Mix them well and fill the entrails;
boil i-half hour and take them out to drain and then hang them up
to dry. When wanted for use, put them first into boiling water, and
then on a gridiron.
VE\L SUET PUDDING. Cut the crumb of a 5 cent loaf into slices;
boil and sweeten 1-2 gallon of new milk and pour over it. When
soaked pour out a little of the milk and mix with 6 eggs well beaten
and 1-2 nutmeg. Lay the slices of bread into a dish, with layers of
currants and veal suet chopped fine, i pound each. Batter the dish
well and bake; or if you prefer it, you may boil it in a basin.
SUET PUDDING. Chop very fine i pound of suet, mix with 1-4
pound of flour, 2 eggs beaten separately, a little salt and as little
milk as will make it. Boil 4 hours. It eats well next day cut in
slices and broiled on a pan or broiler. The outward fat of loins or
necks of mutton finely chopped, makes a more delicious pudding
than the suet.
SWEET PUDDINGS.
AN UNRIVALLED PLUM PUDDING. One-half pound of superior
raisins, 1-4 pound of currants, i pound of Sultana raisins, 2 pounds
of the finest moist sugar, 2 pounds of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, two
pounds of finely chipped suet, 6 ounces of mixed candied peel, the'
rind of two lemons, i ounce of ground nutmeg, i ounce of ground
cinnamon, 1-2 oz. of pounded bitter almonds, 1-4 pint of brandy.
Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash, pick and
-dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices ; mix all
the dry ingredients well together and moisten wlith the eggs, which
should be well beaten and strained to the pudding; stir in the bran-
SWEET PUDDINGS. 24!
dy, and when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout
new pudding cloth; put in the pudding and tie it very tightly and
closely; boil from six to 8 hours, and serve with brandy sauce, a few
sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stick on the pud-
ding; ornament it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled
in flattened moulds. For small families this is the most desirable
way. as the above will be found to make a pudding of rather large
dimensions. Boil from 6 to 8 hours; seasonable in winter; sufficient
for 12 or 14 persons
SNOW BA.NK SAUCE FOR PLAIN PUDDING. Put two tablespoon-
fuls of flour and 4 ounces of butter into a clean saucepan, stir them
over the fire till the butter melts and thickens; add 4 oz. pounded
white sugar, i pint of good white wine or Madaira and stir it to the
yolks of 8 eggs, which have been previously well whisked; keep con-
stantly stirring until it gets quite hot; do not let it boil, or it will
curdle. When sufficiently cooked, add the whites of the eggs pre-
viously beaten to a stiff froth and thoroughly stirred into the mix-
ture. Its appearance resembles a snow.
PLUM PUDDINGS. Four ounces of pounded pudding biscuits, 2
spoonfuls of the best flour or good common biscuits, 1-2 pound of
good California raisins stoned and cut up; 1-2 Ib. dried currants
picked and washed, 1-2 pound suet stripped of skins and threads and
chopped fine, an even teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 4 oz. of beaten
sugar, 1-2 teaspoonful of cinnamon and 2 blades of mace beaten
fine, 3 ounces each of candied lemon, orange and citron sliced, and 2
oz. of blanched almonds roughly chopped. Beat 4 eggs well and put
them to a little milk (sweet), a glass of wine or brandy, and then
mix in the flout and all the ingredients. Tie up the pudding firm
and boil it for 4 hours, keeping up the boiling by adding boiling
water and turning the cloth over. Serve with pudding sauce.
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. -Mrs. M.Jeanson. One-half pound each
flour and bread crumbs mixed lightly together, 3-4 pound beef suet
chopped fine, 1-2 pound each of raisins and currants well washed,
picked and dried, a pinch each of powdered cinnamon and grated
nutmeg, mace and cloves, 2 ounces citron chopped small, i Ib.
brown sugar, 10 whole eggs beaten up; put the whole in a bowl, and
after it is well mixed let it remain all night. The next morning stir all
up again; scald a cloth, wring it out, then dredge it well with sugar or
flour, put in the pudding, roll up and tie tight, put into a pot of boil-
ing water, to which a handful of salt has been added, and a plate
at the bottom of the pot. When first put in turn the pudding occa-
sionally until it is wet, to prevent the raisins from settling on one
side. Boil 2 hours quickly. If done slowly the pudding becomes
heavy.
SWEET PUDDINGS.
FINE ENGLISH BOILED PLUM PUDDING. (Mrs. Tod Robinson.'}
One half pound citron, i pound each of currants, brown sugar,
flour, beef suet and raisins; 8 eggs, i gill each of wine and brandy,
i nutmeg, i teaspoonful of salt; add brown sugar to the yolks, then
1 pint of milk and flour alternately with the chopped citron and
other ingredients. Boil 5 or 6 hours.
PUDDING-ENGLISH FLOUR. (Mrs. Mary Jeanson.) One half pound
of soda, crackers rolled to powder under a rolling pin, 1-2 Ib. of flour,
1-2 Ib. of currants well washed and dried, 1-2 Ib. of Sultana raisins
or common raisins seeded and chopped, 2 oz. citron, 1-4 oz. taken
altogether of cloves, mace and nutmeg, 1-2 Ib. chopped suet (very
fine), 10 eggs well beaten, 1-2 pint brandy; stir all well together; if
desired, a smaller quantity of the ingredients can be used. Boil full
2 hours scalded.
NOTE In all boiled puddings the cloth should be wet in boil-
ing water before placing the pudding in, and before turning it out
dip in cold water. This process will prevent it from sticking.
SAUCE FOR MRS. MARY JEANSON'S ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING OR FOAM
SAUCE. One half Ib. of butter, 2 cups white sugar powdered. These
should be beaten together to a cream; 1-2 teacup each warm water
and brandy to flavor. Stir to a foam; a most delicious sauce.
NOTE To make hot brandy sauce, the whole should be boiled a
little and the brandy added while hot.
BOILED PLUM PUDDING. Stone and cut, but do not chop, i 1-2 Ibs.
good Muscatel raisins, and cleanse without cutting i Ib. Sultana rais-
ins ; wash and dry 2 Ibs. of Zante currants; cut into small, thin slices
1-2 Ib mixed candied peel, grate the rinds of 2 lemons and i oz. nut-
meg ; add i oz. ground cinnamon, 1-2 oz. pounded bitter almonds,
2 Ibs. of finely chopped suet and 2 Ibs of bread crumbs ; mix these
ingredients well together, dry. Beat the yolks of 16 eggs and 2 Ibs.
of sugar to a froth : beat separately the whites of the eggs to a solid
froth ; when this is done, stir i gill of brandy into the dry ingredients,
add quickly the beaten yolks and whites, a little at a time, alternately;
beat the whole rapidly together till well mixed. Butter well and flour
a stout new pudding-cloth or a pudding-mould ; put in the pudding,
tie down very tightly and closely. Boil 8 hours. Serve with brandy
or lemon sauce. This pudding is enough for fourteen persons.
BAKED PLUM PUDDING. Two Ibs. of flour, i Ib. of currants, i Ib.
of raisins, i Ib. of suet, 2 eggs, i pint of milk, a few slices of can-
died peel. Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, currants,
stoned raisins and candied peel ; moisten with the well-beaten eggs,
and add sufficient milk, to make the pudding of the consistency of
very thick batter. Put it into the buttered dish and bake in a good
oven from 2 1-3 to 2 3-4 hours, turn it out, strew sifted sugar over
SWEET PUDDINGS. 243
it and serve. For a very plain pudding, use only 1-2 the quantity of
fruit ; omit the eggs and substitute milk or water for them. The
above ingredients make a large family pudding ; for a small one,
one-half the quantity will be found ample ; but it must be baked
quite i 1-2 hours; large pudding, bake 2 1-2 to 2 3-4 hours; one-
half the size, i 1-2 hours. Sufficient for 9 to 10 persons. Season-
able in winter.
SIMPLE SAUCE FOR ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING (Mrs. Jeanson).
Equal quantities of sugar and butter beaten to a foam ; mix together
a cupful of hot water and 2 spoonfuls of brandy. Put the sugar and
butter mixed in a bqat or bowl, then pour into it the brandy and
water and stir it vigorously only once. It foams and looks like snow.
Pour brandy over and dredge sugar over the pudding when about to
serve at table ; then set it on fire with a match. It is perfectly de-
licious. It is what it ought to be, a snow sauce.
PLUM PUDDING (Mrs. Cordova, West Indies). Twelve eggs
well beaten, i Ib. white sugar, i Ib. flour, i Ib. butter, i Ib. raisins;
the sugar and butter must be well stirred together, and after the eggs
are beaten, then put them in and stir again, using some flavoring ;
boil or bake. Note. Currants may be used in the same way, in-
stead of the raisins or plums.
PLUM PUDDING (Mrs. E. J. Jackson, Richmond, Va.). Take i
quart of leavened dough from yeast bread in the morning. Set it
aside until it is nearly time to put it on for dinner, then add a large
teaspoonful of brown sugar, i Ib. of stoned raisins and two or three
handfuls of well-washed, picked and dried currants, or the currants
may be omitted. Bake. Dried whortleberries are very nice to add
if fancied.
A GRANGER'S currant or dried currant pudding can be made in
the same way as the above. When done, all boiled puddings should
be dipped into cold water for a moment and allowed to stand a min-
ute; take up and turn out on a dish. Eat with wine or brandy
sauce.
POUND PLUM PUDDING. One Ib. suet, i of currants, i of stoned
raisins, 8 eggs, 1-2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. sliced lemon peel, i tea-
spoonful of ground ginger, 1-2 Ib. of bread crumbs to 1-2 Ib. of flour,
1-2 pint milk. Chop the suet finely; mix it with the dry ingredi-
ents ; stir these well together and add the well-beaten eggs and milk
to moisten with ; beat up the mixture well, and should the above
proportion of milk not be found sufficient to make it of the proper
consistency, a little more should be added. Press the pudding into
a mould, tie it in a flannel cloth and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer,
and serve with brandy sauce. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seas-
ooable in winter. It may be baked for 2 hours intead of boiled.
244 SWEET PUDDINGS.
PLUM PUDDING WITH RUM. Take 2 peeled, large, ripe and plump
apples, cut in small* squares ; 3-4 Ib. bread crumbs, 3-4 Ib. of picked
and finely-chopped suet, 3-4 Ib. each of powdered sugar, 3-4 Ib. of
well-washed and picked currants, 1-4 Ib. of candied orange peel and
citron cut in small slices, 3-4 Ib of seeded raisins and the grated peel
of a lemon. Mix the whole thoroughly in a basin with three
pounded cloves, a pinch of salt, 6 eggs, i at a time, and 2 spoonfuls
of rum. Butter a pudding mould ; fill it with the mixture and tie a
cloth tightly over it. Fill a boiling pot 3-4 full of boiling water; put
the pudding in it and boil for 3 or 4 hours, keeping the pot replen-
ished with boiling water. Turn the pudding out of the mould on
a hot dish ; sprinkle the dish with powdered sugar, pour in i glassful
of warm rum and light it after putting the pudding on the table.
PLUM PUDDING WITH WINE SAUCE. Prepare the pudding as be-
fore. For the sauce, put 8 yolks of eggs in a stew-pan, with i cup
of finely-pounded sugar, i 1-2 cups of superior California wine and
1-3 the grated peel of a lemon; stir over the fire until the sauce
coats the spoon, strain through a fine cloth or hair sieve, and
serve the sauce in a boat with the pudding.
RICH PLUM PUDDING. One Ib. of flour, dried, i Ib. of currants
very carefully picked, washed and dried before the fire ; i Ib. of
stoned and chopped raisins, i Ib. of beef suet or marrow picked very
fine, 8 eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately and thoroughly and
well-mixed with the flour before any other ingredients are added ; i
oz. of candied citron chopped very fine, 2 oz. blanched almonds cut
in pieces, a nutmeg and a little new milk or water the less the bet-
ter of either ; the milk will make it cut more solid ; but the water
will make it more light and hollow. Let it boil 4 hours and serve
with sugar sifted over, and wine sauce.
CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. One-half Ib. raisins, 1-2 Ib. currants,
1-2 Ib. mixed peel, 3-4 Ib. bread crumbs, 3-4 Ib. suet, 8 eggs, i wine-
glass of brandy ; stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop
them ; wash, pick and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely ;
cut the candied peel into thin slices and grate down the bread into
fine crumbs ; when all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them
well together ; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which .should
be well beaten, and the brandy ; stir well, that everything may be
thoroughly blended, and press the pudding into a buttered mould,
tie it up tightly with a floured cloth and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It
may be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same
time for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few
days before they are required for the table, when the pudding is
taken out of the pot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or
saucer underneath to catch the water that may drain from it. The
SWEET PUDDINGS. 245
day to he eaten, plunge it into boiling water and keep it boiling for
two hours ; then turn it out into a mould and serve with brandy
sauce. On Christmas day a sprig of holly or some evergreen is us-
ually placed in the middle of the pudding and about a wineglass of
brandy poured around it, which, at the moment of serving, is lighted,
and the pudding thus brought to table encircled in flame. Boil 5 or
6 hours ; 2 hours the day it is to be served. Sufficient for a quart
mould for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable on various festive occasions,
particularly on the 25th of December. N. B. Five or six of these
puddings should be made at one time, as they will keep many weeks,
in cases where unexpected guests arrive, they will be found accepta-
ble, and it requires only warming through, a quickly prepared dish.
Moulds of every shape and size are manufactured for these pud-
dings.
A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. One Ib. of flour
or bread crumbs, 3-4 Ib. of stoned raisins, 3-4 Ib of currants, 1-4 Ib.
of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, 2 oz. of candied peel, i teaspoonful of
alspice, a pinch of salt. Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins
stoned and the currants picked well, washed and dried ; mix them with
the other dry ingredients, and stir all well together ; beat and strain
the eggs to the pudding, stir these in and add just sufficient milk to
make it mix properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into
boiling water and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of
evergreen placed in the middle of the pudding and a little pounded
sugar sprinkled over it. Sufficient for 9 or 10 children. Seasonable
at Christmas. Bake 5 hours.
RUM PUDDING (German). Take 8 eggs, divide the yolks from
the whites, beat the yolks and mix with sugar, sweet, rich cream and
a little flour or corn starch, or rice flour, very little ; put on the fire
and, stir till thick ; then take half a small box of gelatine, say 2$c
box, and put it in a very small pan with a small portion of water ;
put on the fire, but not to boil ; then add it slowly, with the rum, to
the above mixture last ; whip the whites of the eggs to a solid froth,
and put that on top and bake to a delicate brown. To be eaten
cold with red wine or jelly sauce. The wine and sugar to taste.
The above proportion can be divided and make two puddings, and
season one with rum, brandy or wine, and the other leaving out the
spirits, can be flavored with essence of lemon or extract of vanilla
to taste.
ORANGE PUDDING. Take i Ib. of butter, i Ib. of sugar, 10 eggs,
the juice of 2 oranges, boil the peel, then pound it fine and mix it
with the juice; add the juice of i lemon , a wineglass of brandy,
the same of wine and rose water. If you do not have the fruits, add
the extracts.
246 SWEET PUDDINGS.
GRANGER ORANGE PUDDING. After peeling and seeding 4 good-
sized oranges, cut them up. Add i 1-2 cups of sugar; let them re-
main ; stir 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch into i cup of nearly boil-
ing milk or cream ; mix with a little water and the yolks of 3 eggs.
When done, let it cool and mix with the orange. Then, with the
whites of the eggs and 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of white sugar,
make a frosting. Spread over the top of the pudding. Place in
the oven for a few minutes to brown.
BAKED LEMON PuoorNG. Ten ounces of bread crumbs, 2 pints
of milk, 2 ounces of butter, i lemon, 1-4 pound of powdered su-
gar, 4 eggs, i tablespoonful of brandy; bring the milk to the boil-
ing point, stir in the butter and pour these hot over the bread
crumbs; add the sugar and and very finely minced lemon peel ;
beat the eggs and stir these in with the brandy to the other in-
gredients and bake for half an hour; sufficient for 6 or 7 persons;
seasonable at any time.
LEMON PUDDING. (Jennie Breek). 5 eggs, 1-2 pound butter, i
pound of white sugar, juice of 3 lemons, i pint of cream or new
milk, cream the butter by beating it and stir the sugar in it; beat
the yolks of eggs smooth, then add the yolks to butter and su-
gar; stir it well, then add and beat in the cream, and last stir
in the whites of eggs beaten to a snow, and the grated rind of i
common lemon. This is enough for 3 puddings.
LEMON PUDDING. One half pound of apples minced very fine,
1-2 pound pulverized white sugar, 6 ounces butter, the yolks of eight
eggs and the whites of 4, beaten separately, 3 lemons cut in very
thin slices (rind and juice and pulp); beat the sugar and butter to a
cream, add the yolks of the eggs well beaten, then the whites
of four beaten to a stiff froth; mix well, and finally the third lemon;
stir the mixture well together, have ready a deep earthen baking dish
lined with puff paste, pour in the mixture; bake 3-4 of an hour.
Serve cold.
VERY RICH LEMON PUDDING. The rind and juice of two large
lemons, 1-2 pound of loaf sugar, 1-4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8
eggs, 2 ounces almonds, 1-2 pound of butter melted, mix the pound-
ed sugar with the cream and add the yolks of eggs to the but-
ter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound the
almonds and put these with the grated rind and strained juireof the
lemon to the other ingredients. Stir all well together. Line a dish
with puff paste, put in the mixture and bake for i hour. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons; always a seasonable dish
LEMON PUDDING. Grate yellow part of the rind (being dried on
the stove or sun) and juice of 3 lemons; stir to a cream 1-2 pound
of butter, 3-4 pound of powdered white sugar; beat very light six
eggs and stir gradually into the mixture. Bake in a buttered dish.
SWEET PUDDINGS. 247
AN EXCELLENT LEMON PUDDING. Beat the yolks of 4 eggs, one
cup of white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some
lumps of it to the essence; then put and beat it in a mortar with the
juice of a large lemon, and mix all with 4 or 5 oz. of butter warmed.
Put a crust into a shallow dish, nick the edges, pour the above mix-
ture into it; when served turn the pudding out of the dish.
LEMONADE PUDDING. (For Summer.) Make a sufficient quan-
tity of lemonade in the usual way, adding the juice of a large Cali-
fornia orange to every pint; when cold soak in it thoroughly a French
roll or rolls, but don't break them; then stick in their quarters blanch-
ed pieces of sweet almonds.
LEMON AND CREAM PUDDING. Beat up 4 eggs, strain them, add
a teacupful of fine white sugar, 1-2 rind of lemon, i pint of new
cream. Line a pudding dish with puff paste, put in the above and
bake 1-2 hour.
CALIFORNIA APPLE PUDDING. Pare and grate 3-4 pounds of juicy
apples, put to them 6 ounces of butter, beat to a cream; 4 eggs
beat, 2 soft biscuits pounded, the rind of a lemon grated, sugar to
taste, a spoonful of brandy, another of orange flower water; bake in
a puff paste marked on the border, and when done strew candied
lemon or orange peel sliced over the top; a little lemon juice or ci-
der may be added if the apples are too mellow.
AN EXCELLENT APPLE PUDDING. Pare and core and stew the
apples in a stew pan with cinnamon, 2 or 3 cloves and the grated
rind of a lemon. When soft sweeten them to taste. Pulp them
through a seive, add the yolks of four eggs, i cup of butter, the
grated peel and the juice of a lemon; mix the ingredients well and
bake for an hour in a dish lined with good puff paste.
PIPPIN PUDDING. Boil 8 apples well, take out the cores, put in
3-4 pint of milk, thicken with 4 eggs, a little lemon peel and sugar
to taste; put pie paste around the dish; bake in a slow oven, grate
suo^ar over it and serve hot.
BAKED APPLE PUDDING. Take 12 large apples, wash them and
boil as for sauce; grate in 4 sweet biscuits and the rind of a lemon,
squeeze in the juice and add 4 whole eggs, 2 spoonfuls batter,
sweeten to taste and bake it with a thin puff paste at the bottom of
the dish.
APPLE DUMPLINGS OR PUDDING BOILED OR BAKED. Peel, cut
and core the desired quantity of apples, cover with the fruit for
boiled pudding, tie up in a cloth and boil till done or baked; better
boiled and kept in the cloth hung up for 4 or 6 weeks. They may
be rewarmed by simply putting the cloth containing the pudding in
boiling water for 10 or 15 minutes, when serve with butter and brown
sugar.
248
SWEET PUDDINGS.
NOTE The crust should be rolled out thin, the apples cut up
rather small and set thickly over the paste, then rolled up and put
in a cloth and sewed.
BOILED APPLE PUDDING. Apples, butter crust, sugar to taste, i
small teaspoonful of finely minced lemon peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of
lemon juice; make a butter crust or a suet one, using for a moder-
ate sized pudding from 3-4 to I pound of flour with other ingredi-
ents in proportion. Butter a basin, line it with some of the paste,
pare, core and cut the apples into sh'ces and fill the basin with these;
add the sugar, the lemon peel and juice and cover with crust; pinch
the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie it
securely and put it into plenty of fast boiling water. Let it boil
from i 1-2 to 2 1-2 hours, according to size; then turn it out of the
basin and send it to the table quickly. Apple puddings may also
be boiled in a cloth without a basin, but when made in this way
must be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes
heavy. Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the
dinner hour is rather uncertain, as it does not spoil by being boiled
an extra hour. Care, however, must be taken to keep it well cov-
ered with water all the time and not allow it to stop boiling. Boil
from i 1-2 to 2 1-2 hours, according to the size of the pudding and
quality of the apples. Sufficient with i pound of flour for 7 or 8
persons.
ICED APPLE PUDDINGS. (French Recipe after Careme.) -Two
dozen apples, a small pot of spiced jam and 1-2 pound of sugar, i
large juicy orange or 2 small ones; 1-4 pound preserved cherries,
1-4 pound of raisins, i ounce of citron, 2 ounces of almonds, i gill
of curacoa, i gill of marasquino, i pint of cream. Peel, core
and cut the apples into quarters and simmer them over the fire till
soft, then mix with them the apricot jam and the sugar, on which
the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed; work all these
ingredients through a sieve and put them into a freezing pot.
Stone the raisins and simmer them in a little syrup for a few min-
utes; add these with the sliced citron, the almonds cut in slices and
the cherries drained from their syrup to the ingredients in the freez-
ing pot; put in the curacoa and marasquino and freeze again; add
as much whipped cream as will be required; freeze again and fill
the mould; put the lid on and plunge the mould into the ice pot
containing pounded ice and saltpetre, cover it with a wet cloth,
where it should remain until wanted for the table. Turn the pud-
ding out of the mould on a clean and neatly folded napkin, and serve
as sauce a little iced whipped cream in a sauce tureen or glass dish;
1-2 hour to freeze the mixture.
APPLE SOUFFLE OR STEAMED PUDDING. Seven or 8 rich, juicy ap-
SWEET PUDDINGS. 249
pies, i 1-4 cup of bread crumbs (fine and stale), 5 eggs, i 1-2 cup
of sugar, 2 heaped teaspoonfuls butter, cinnamon or nutmeg and a
pinch of grated lemon peel. Pare, core and slice the apples, and
stew in an enameled kettle, with a very little water, until they are ten-
der. Take up and mash the pulp, then stir in sugar and butter while
hot. When cold stir in the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and
then the whites beaten to a solid froth, then the stale bread
crumbs ; then the flavoring, and beat vigorously for 4 or 5 min-
utes, until the mixture is reduced to a custard ; put in a buttered
dish and bake in a moderate oven i hour. Ten minutes before
you take it out remove the cover. This will prevent the forma-
tion of a crust on top, and the pudding will be more succulent.
Eat while hot with honey and butter.
A GRANGER'S NICE BAITER PUDDING. Five cups of milk, 5
cups of flour, 5 eggs, beaten smoothly; salt to taste. Stir and
beat till free from lumps. Bake in buttered shallow pudding
dishes. Eat with cream, sugar and grated lemon peel.
APPLE AND RICE PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. Boil 1-2 ounce of
good, sound rice in a gill of milk till very soft, then add a little
sugar, a little cinnamon, a small piece of butter and a pinch of
salt. Then pare, core and slice a medium-sized, good apple and
put into a stew-pan with a little butter, a little sugar and a drop
of water; simmer till tender, then put the apple into a deep dish.
Mix an egg with the rice and pour it over the apple and bake
for 10 minutes in a slow oven. If preferred, the pudding can be
made plain.
RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING Half Ib. each of sugar, suet,
currants, i spoonful butter, i teaspoonful salt, i tea spoonful grated
nutmeg, i wineglass of brandy; the suet chopped fine, i cup of sweet
milk; all well mixed, into which stir 8 or 10 sound mellow apples
chopped fine. Bake in a large pan or pudding dish; mix thoroughly
the ingredients.
RUSK. PUDDING. According to the size of the dish you wish to
fill, take as many rusks as will barely fill it, butter the dish, spread the
rusks pretty thickly with butter or beefs marrow, and lay them in a dish;
strew over each layer fine loaf sugar sifted, currants, citron, orange
and lemon peel, shred fine, a few California sweet almonds, blanched,
nutmeg and pounded cinnamon. Pour over the whole a rich, un-
boiled custard, in the proportion of i pint of milk, fresh and sweet ;
1-2 cupful of cream, 3 whole eggs and 3 yolks, and a spoonful of
ratafia. Steep at least 2 hours, and as much longer as the weather
will admit, then bake in a moderate oven till it has assumed a fine
brown color, which will be in 3-4 of an hour.
A SUPERB PUDDING.T Ten ounces bread crumbs, 8 ounces chop-
2 S SWEET PUDDINGS.
ped suet 2 ounces pounded sugar, the grated peel and juice of lem-
ons, 3 eggs and a little salt. Mix all well together, put it into a
mould that will just hold it and boil for 3 hours. Serve with clear
wine sauce.
YANKEE PUDDING (Ella Drummond). Four eggs, 3 coffee cups
of flour, 2 of sugar, i oz. butter, i cup sour milk, i teaspoonful sal-
eratus (it is an improvement to dissolve this in vinegar). Mix thor-
oughly and bake as you would cake. To be eaten with sauce.
PUDDING A LA RF.INE. Butter and paper the moulds, fill up with
cake or bread crumbs ; when full pour some custard in until it will
hold no more. This may be flavored with any white liquor or any es-
sence you please, for instance, citron (then it is called pudding a la
Reine au citron), or orange. Use peel thickly sliced, and so on or
any flavor you may give it.
FIG PUDDING No. i. Chop fine i Ib. of very good white figs, with
4 oz. suet chopped as fine as possible ; dust them with a little flour
as you proceed to bind them together ; then take i Ib. of fine bread
crumbs and 3 oz. of sugar. Beat 2 eggs in a teacupful of milk and
mix all well together. Boil for 4 hours. If you choose, serve it with
brandy sauce.
FIG PUDDING No. 2 Half Ib. chopped figs, 1-2 pint of milk, 2 oz.
mutton suet chopped fine, 5 eggs, i teaspoonful soda, i cup sugar, 1-2
pint Jamaica rum, 2 cups bread crumbs. Mix thoroughly, place in a
mould and boil 5 or 6 hours.
QUINCE PUDDING. Parboil the quinces till tender, pare them
thin scrape off the pulp, mix it with plenty of sugar and add a little
ginger and cinnamon. To i pint of new, rich cream put the yolks
of 3 or 4 eggs and stir therein quinces till they are sufficiently thick ;
butter your dish, pour in the pudding and bake it.
PEACH PUDDING. Pour a pint of hot cream over what would fill
a cup, of bread crumbs, and cover the basin. When cold, add the
beaten yolks of 4 eggs, i glass of white wine or sweet cider, and
best sugar to paste. Scald a dozen of fully ripe peaches, cut them,
take out the kernels and pound the whole in a mortar. Mix them
with the ingredients and the beaten whites of the 2 eggs, and bake
in a dish with a paste border.
PEAR PUDDING. Coddle 6 large pears in vine leaves covered with
water, so gently that they may be rendered soft in the inside without
breaking the skins, then peel them and take the pulp from the core
with a teaspoon. Press it through a colander, add thereto 2 spoon-
fuls of orange flower water, 3 eggs, beaten ; a glass of sweet wine,
i pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg. Add some lemon and
orange peel chopped fine and citron in slices. Lay a thin paste at
the bottom of the dish and around its sides; pour in the pudding.
Bake it nicely.
SWEET PUDDINGS. 251
RHUBARB PUDDING. Wash and peel the desired quantity of the
sticks of green rhubarb, put them into a stew pan with the juice of
a lemon, a little cinnamon and as much sugar as will sweeten it.
Set it over a fire and reduce it to marmalade; press through a hair
sieve, add the yolks of 4 eggs and i white, i cup of butter, 1-2
nutmeg and the peel of a lemon grated. Beat all well together, line
the inside of a dish with good paste, put in the pudding and bake
it 1-2 hour.
HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING. One pint milk, 2 eggs, i quart flour,
or enough for a thick batter; i gill baker's yeast, i teaspoonful
of salt, i teaspoonful soda dissolved in boiling water, nearly a quart
of berries well dredged with flour. Make a batter of the eggs, milk,
flour, yeast, salt, soda, and set it to rise in a warm place for 4 hours.
When you are ready to boil it, stir in the dredged fruit quickly and
lightly. Boil in a buttered mould or floured cloth for 2 hours. This
will be found lighter and more wholesome than boiled pastry. Eat
hot with sweet sauce.
RASPBERRY PUDDING. Put a quart of ripe raspberries with a cof-
fee cupful of sugar in a deep dish; as you put in the raspberries
break them slightly with the back of a wooden spoon. Whip six
eggs very light and mix them with a pint of new cream or rich un-'
skimmed milk; add 3-4 cup of sugar and some nutmeg grated.
Then pour this over the berries. Put the dish immediately into a
moderate oven and bake 1-2 hour. Similar puddings may be made
in the same way with currants, cherries, &c. When baked the dish
should be set on ice, or where it will become cold before eating it.
BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. Gooseberries, 3 eggs, i 1-2 oz.
butter, 1-2 pint of bread crumbs, sugar to taste. Put the gooseber-
into a jar, previously cutting off the tops and tails; place this jar in
boiling water and let it boil until the gooseberries are soft to a pulp,
then beat them through a coarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add
3 well whisked eggs; 1-2 ounce of butter, 1-3 pint of bread crumbs
and sugar to taste; beat the mixture well, put a border of puff paste
round the edge of a pie dish, put in the pudding; bake 40 minutes;
strew sifted sugar over and serve. Bake 40 minutes. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
CORN MEAL PUDDING. Two quarts of boiling milk, stir in t\vo
cups of corn meal, 2 spoonfuls of flour, 1-2 cup of molasses, three
pints of sweet apples sliced and 2 spoonfuls of butter; bake 3 hours.
CORN MEAL PUDDING No. 2. Take i quart of sifted cornmeal, i
cup of fresh butter and stir in gradually to a quart of boiling milk;
adding the grated rind of a lemon or orange. Squeeze the juice from
the orange, 11-2 cup of brown sugar, and stir that in also; add a large
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Have ready i pound of raisins
2 S 2 SWEET PUDDINGS.
seeded and cut in two and well rolled in flour to prevent their sink-
ing; beat 6 eggs till very smooth and gradually stir them in, and the
raisins, which should be dropped in a few at a time, and the whole
mixture stirred very hard. Dip the pudding cloth into a pot of boil-
ing water, shake it out and dredge it with flour. Spread out the cloth
in a deep empty basin or pan and pour in the pudding. Tie it firmly,
leaving room for it to expand in boiling. Lay it in a pot of hot wa-
ter and let it boil 4 or 5 hours, turning it over several times while
boiling; pour in more boiling water, as it boils away. A kettle should
be kept for the purpose. When done take off the pudding and dip
it in cold water for a moment before you untie the cloth. Turn on
a dish and serve. It should not be taken up till the minute it is
wanted. Eat with butter, white sugar, nutmeg and lemon or orange
juice beaten together to a light cream or wine sauce. 'What remains
may be tied, kept in a tin bucket in a cool place and boil i hour for
the next day's dinner. In making it you can use 1-4 Ib. of minced
suet as fine as possible instead of butter.
CORN MEAL FRUIT PUDDING. Six coffee cups -of milk, 2 teacups
of white corn meal, one coffee cup of wheat flour, 5 eggs well
beaten, i coffee cup of white sugar, 3 large tablespoonfuls melt-
ed butter, 1-2 pound of Sultana raisins or seeded ones clipped in 2
or 3 pieces, 2 even teaspoonfuls of salt, 1-2 teaspoonful each of
mace and cinnamon, i teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 2 table-
spoonfuls of boiling water, 2 teaspoon <uls of cream tartar sifted
in the flour; wet the meal in two coffee cups of boiling milk, stir
it till almost cold; while cooling mix the flour with cold milk to a
paste and beat that in the coin meal mixture, and continue to
beat constantly for 15 minutes or longer without stopping; then
beat the eggs, sugar and remaining milk to a custard; then after
beating this add gradually into the meal and flour paste this mix-
ture; when made into a smooth, light batter add the butter, spice,
the fruit dredged well with flour and then the dissolved soda.
Beat firmly and quick and see that every stroke reaches the bottom
of the dish and stirs up the batter thoroughly. Butter a dish and
pour in the batter and bake in a tolerably brisk even oven. If
the heat be right it will bake in 1-2 or 3-4 hour. Should it brown
too rapidly cover with a paper. This pudding is liked by e'very
one.
INDIAN PUDDING. Three quarts of scalded milk, 7 tablespoon-
fuls of corn meal and mix while hot; let it stand until cool, and
then add 4 eggs, 1-2 to a cupful white sugar, 1-2 pound of butter,
i tablespoonful of allspice well beaten first together and then thor-
oughly mix with the first mixture. Bake 4 hours in a moderate
oven.
SWEET PUDDINGS. 253
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. Two quarts of new sweet milk, i cup
of white corn meal, 1-2 cup each molasses and sugar, i teaspoon-
ful of salt, 2 eggs, a grated nutmeg and a teaspoonful of ground gin-
ger; leave out the milk and stir all the other ingredients well togeth-
er, then pour the milk on them boiling hot and mix thoroughly all
together; pour the mixture into a buttered earthen pudding dish and
bake in a moderate oven for 3 hours, stirring frequently the first
hour. If allowed to stand i hour in a warm oven after it is done it
will improve it. Eat with butter or milk and sugar.
SUPERIOR CORN MEAL PUDDING. Seed T pound of raisins and
clip them in two; spread them on a large flat dish and dredge them
with fine wheat flour, turning them over so that both sides may be
well floured. Boil 2 pints of rich new milk, remove it from the fire
and set it to cool; transfer i pint of the milk to another pan, and
while it is still warm stir a cup of fresh butter chopped up, and one
cup'of brown sugar or molasses mixed with the grated yellow rind
of a large California lemon or orange and the juice; add a glass of
brandy, i large teaspoonful each of pounded nutmeg and cinnamon.
Beat 8 or 10 eggs very light, and when it is quite cold stir in the
eggs slowly into the other pint; then mix all together, using suffi-
cient bolted white corn meal to make the batter thick, and lastly
mix in the raisins, a few at a time, stirring well during the time, and
proceed as for corn meal pudding. If there is not time to boil the
pudding for several hours before your dinner you ran prepare it the
day before and boil it during the afternoon and the morning of the
next day. Corn meal pudding cannot be boiled too long the lon-
ger the better, if through the entire day, and boiled again the next
morning.
INDIAN FRUIT PUDDING. Take a pint of hot milk and stir in In-
dian meal till the batter is stiff, add a teaspoon of salt and a little
molasses; then stir in a pint of whortleberries or the same quantity
of chopped sweet apples; tie it in a cloth that has been wet and
leave room for it to swell, or put in a pudding pan and tie a cloth
over; boil it 3 hours. The water must boil when it is put in.
BREAD PUDDING. (Dantzie). Soak a loaf of bread and drain it;
allow 5 well beaten eggs to a loaf, a little salt, cinnamon well chop-
ped raisins, sugar; mix thoroughly; put in an oven and bake slowly.
BREAD PUDDING FOR INVALIDS Boil a piece of cinnamon and
lemon peel in a cup (i pint) of milk and pour it over 2 ounces of
stale bread crumbs, add 3 well whisked eggs, 11-2 ounce clean cur-
rants and a little sugar. Pour into a buttered mould lined with well
seeded raisins, steam i hour.
BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING FOR THE SICK. Sprinkle some
clean currants all around a well buttered pie dish, then lay in a few
254 SWEET PUDDINGS.
slices of buttered bread; then stir into i pint of boiling milk 2 well
whisked eggs; then pour the milk on the buttered bread. Set in a
hot oven and bake 30 minutes.
FI.OUR PUDDING. May be flavored with orange, lemon, vanilla
or with sweet almonds.
N. B. All these and similar of flour pudding may be heated and
finished like the above, only add before you mix in the froth either
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla or orange sugar, 2 ounces of nicely picked
and washed currants or i ounce of bitter almonds.
BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. Slice bread with butter and lay
it in a dish with currants between each layer; add sliced citron, or-
ange or lemon, if it be very nice; pour over it an unboiled custard
of milk, 3 or 4 eggs, a few pimintoes and a very little ratafia, two
hours at least before it is to be baked and pour it over the bread.
A paste around the edges makes all puddings look better, but it is
not necessary.
A RICH BREAD PUDDING. Simmer 4 pints of cream with salt,
sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and mace. When it boils, slice in
the crusts of 4 French rolls or the whole of 2. When the rolls have
soaked up the cream press through a colander, add 12 eggs, leaving
out 4 whites ; sweeten with loaf sugar, mix well together, put it in a
buttered basin and tie a cloth over securely and boil i hour.
HOME BREAD PUDDING. Pour 1-2 pint of,scalding milk over 1-2
pint of bread crumbs, cover for i hour. Beat up 4 eggs, and when
strained add to the bread a teaspoonful of flour, i spoonful of butter,
2 of sugar, 1-2 Ib. currants, washed and picked; i oz. beaten
almonds, with orange flower water, 1-2 oz. of an orange, lemon and
citron. Butter a basin that will hold it, flour a cloth and tie tightly
over it and boil them. Prunes, or plums, or cherries, make a fine
pudding instead of raisins, either with suet or as bread pudding.
BROWN BREAD PUDDING. One-half Ib. each of stale brown bread,
grated, currants, shred suet and sugar; nutmeg; mix with 4 eggs,
i spoonful brandy, 2 of cream ; boil in a cloth or basin that exactly
holds it 3 or 4 hours.
BREAD PUDDING (Mrs. Myers) .Three oz. grated bread ;
pounded almonds, beaten, i oz. ; fine white sugar, 3 oz.; citron, i
outside, grated; spices to taste. Mix well together and beat with
the whites of eggs and stir all together. Boil or bake in a buttered
form i hour. Use any kind of wine sauce.
MUFFIN PUDDING, No. i. Cut 3 muffins in two; pour i 1-2
pint boiling milk over them ; let them stand to cool ; make a cus-
tard of 8 yolks and 4 whole eggs ; beat them up with i pint of cream
and i glass of brandy, i nutmeg, 1-4 Ib. of sugar, i lemon peel,
grated ; butter a mould and place some dried cherries in it accord-
SWEET PUDDINGS. 255
ing to fancy ; put a layer of muffin drained, and dried cherries, and
custard to cover alternately, till the mould is full ; boil in a stewpan
with a little water for the mould to stand in, i 1-2 hours. Serve
with wine sauce.
MACARONI PUDDING (Mrs. Linaburg) .One quart of sifted
flour, 2 eggs, salt, no water, roll out, put some salt in boiling water,
cut the maccaroni in pieces, boil 1-2 hour, pass through a colender.
then mix with it 3 or 4 beaten eggs, sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, all
well together. Bake in an oven.
MACAROON CUSTARD PUDDING. Fill the bottom of a dish with
macaroons; soak them with white wine and pour over them a cus-
tard made of 20 eggs, 1-2 pint cream and a pint of new milk, with
the addition of such sweetmeats as may be agreeable. The dish
may be lined with puff-paste, but care must be taken that it is not
baked too much.
A RICH MACARONI PUDDING. Boil in a pint of milk for 1-2 an
hour 4 oz. of pipe macaroni, then turn it into a dish and mix it with
3 eggs, 1-2 cup of loaf sugar, a little nutmeg and a few pounded
almond or lemon peel or a little cinnamon, butter the mould well
and boil or steam i hour. Serve up with wine sauce.
SPOONFUL PUDDING (Mrs. Price). One spoonful of flour and
rich, sweet cream, i beaten egg, a little salt and nutmeg. Mix all
well together and boil 30 minutes in a cloth,
RUSSIAN SEED OR GROUND RICE PUDDING. Boil a large spoonful
heaped, either of the seed or rice flour, in a pint of new milk, wtth
lemon peel and cinnamon. When cold, add sugar and nutmeg and
2 eggs well beaten. Bake with a crust round the dish.
RICE PUDDING (Mrs. Lane, Panama). One cup of rice, i of
sugar, the yolks of 3 eggs, t lemon ; boil the rice in the water until
very soft, then add the sugar and grated rind of the lemon and the
eggs beaten well, a little soda and salt. Bake 1-2 hour; then beat
the whites of the 3 eggs, adding i cup of white sugar and the juice
of the lemon, spreading over the pudding, and set back in the oven.
Bake a light brown. To be eaten cold.
RICE PUDDING. One cup of boiled rice, 2 quarts milk, 1-2 cup
of sugar, 2 tablespoons of butter ; salt, spice to suit. Bake 3 hours.
Stir while baking.
RICE PUDDING WITH VANILLA. This pudding can be made
qnickly and easily by baking in a dish intead of a buttered mould.
Prepare the rice and flavor it with vanilla sugar instead of the grated
lemon peel, put in a pie dish slightly buttered. Bake for 1-2 hour.
Sprinkle some sugar over it. Any kind of flavoring may be used.
SAN GREGORIA RICE PUDDING. Boil well 1-2 Ib. well-washed
rice in 2 pints of pure milk, taking the greatest pains to prevent it
256 SWEET PUDDINGS.
from catching at the bottom of the sauce-pan. Pare 8 large apples
fully ripe or green, take out the cores without cutting the fruit quite
through, put a little raspberry jam into each hole and fill up with
cream, edge a pie-dish with a rim of pie-paste, lay in the apples and
level the spaces between them with boiled rice. Break over it the
yolk of a hen's egg, dust it well with powdered loaf sugar; bake 40
minute in a quick oven. To be eaten warm.
ITALIAN PUDDING. Take i pint of rich new cream, slice therein
as much French roll as will make it thick, beat up 5 eggs, butter the
bottom of a dish, slice 8 pippins into it, and add thereto some or-
ange peel, su^ar and 1-2 pint ofport wine; pour in the batter, cream,
bread and eggs and lay a puff paste over the dish and bake it 1-2
hour.
WEST INDIAN PUDDING. One pint of cream, 1-4 pound of loaf
sugar, 1-2 pound of Savoy or sponge cakes, 8 eggs, 3 ounces pre-
served green ginger; crumble up the cakes, put them into a
basin and pour over them the cream, which should be previously
sweetened and brought to the boiling point; cover the basin well,
beat the eggs, and when the cream is soaked up stir them in. Butter
a mould, arrange the ginger around it, pour in the pudding carefully
and tie it down with a cloth, steam or boil it slowly for 1-2 hour and
serve with the syrup from the ginger, which should be warmed, and
pour over the pudding. Boil 1-2 hour. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at all times.
AUNT SUSAN'S CUP PUDDING. Put 3 pints of milk on the stove
to scald, then stir into another cupful of milk 6 good teaspoonfuls of
flour and stir slowly and carefully into the boiling milk; stir until it
boils we'll, adding a little salt. Wet cups 'in cold water and pour in
the mixture and let it cool. When cold serve with sweetened cream
flavored to taste.
JELLY PUDDING. (J. M.) Five large tablespoonfuls of any kind
of jelly, 3 eggs beaten up with the jelly, i heaping tablespoonful of
butter, sugar and spices, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon.
CHARLESTON PUDDING. Four cups of flour sifted with i teaspoon-
ful of soda and 2 of cream tartar; beat 6 eggs with 3 cups of sugar till
smooth, i cup of butter and i of cream in them; gently stir in the flour.
CHEESE PUDDING. (Mrs. B.) Mix together 1-2 pound grated
cheese. 4 well beaten eggs, 1-2 pint of milk: mix well, season with
a little salt and bake in a buttered dish, putting some slices of toast-
ed bread in the bottom of the dish or not, as you prefer.
QUEKN OF ALL PUDDING. Beat well together i quart of new milk,
i pint of bread crumbs, i teacup of fine white sugar, the yolks
of four eggs, flavor with vanilla, put into a baking dish, set in
the stove; when baked spread on the top one layer of preserves
SWEET PUDDINGS. 257
of any kind you fancy. Then take the well beaten whites of 2
eggs with 1-2 pound or more of finely powdered white sugar
whisked well together till solid, making a stiff icing, and spread
on the top of the preserves and put into the stove to dry but not
to brown.
QUEEN OF ALL PUDDINGS, which will keep in the hottest weather.
Mrs. Blackman Seattle, W. T. One quart crumbs stale light bread, 4
yolks of eggs, one cup of white sugar, i cup of seeded or seedless
raisins, mix very slightly with i quart of new sweet milk, spice to
taste. Bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven, then take the 4 whites
of eggs and 4 tablespoonfuls of white sugar and beat to a solid froth;
then put it on the pudding and set in the oven to become slightly
brown. Serve cold; keep in a dry, cool place.
TAPIOCA PUDDING FOR THE SICK. Boil a piece of lemon peel and
a little cinnamon in 2 cups of milk (i pint), then add 2 ounces of
tapioca and boil down one-half: add i ounce of butter, 2 fresh eggs,
pour into a buttered dish or mould and steam 30 minutes.
VERMICELLI PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. Boil in 2 cups of new milk
with a piece of cinnamon 1-2 a bay leaf, a piece of lemon peel, when
add i ounce of vermicelli; when boiled to 1-2 add two well beaten
eggs, a little sugar, stir well and pour into a buttered mould and
steam 30 minutes.
BARLEY PUDDING. The yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3, and
put them into a quart of cream; sweeten to taste and put in a little
orange flower or use water with i pound of melted butter; add three
cups of pearl or French barley that has been boiled tender in milk ;
butter a dish, pour in and bake.
MILLET PUDDING. Wash 3 spoonfuls of the seed, put it into the
dish with a crust around the edges, pour over it as much new milk
as will nearly fill the dish, 2 spoons of butter warmed with it, sugar,
beaten lemon and scraps of ginger and nutmeg, when put it into
the oven, stir in 2 beaten eggs and a spoonful of chopped suet,
SEMOLINA PUDDING WITH ORANGE FLOWERS. Boil three pints of
milk in a stew pan; when boiling pour in 1-2 pound of the semolina
with one hand while stirring the milk with the other; add 2 spoonfuls
of sugar, T-2 cup of butter and a pinch of salt; simmer on a slow fire
for 20 minutes, put the semolina in a basin and mix 4 eggs in it, be-
ing careful to mix each egg before breaking another; add a table-
spoonful of candied orange flowers previously crushed fine with the
rolling-pin, and 2 spoonfuls of sugar; mix all well together and put
in 'a mould to bake, as for rice pudding with lemon.
WASHINGTON PUDDING. Slice i pound of butter, 4 pounds of su-
gar together, sift i quart of flour into the butter and sugar alternately
with the flour, and a pint of rich milk or cream (if the cream is sour
SWEET PUDDINGS.
it is no disadvantage), one pounded nutmeg, a glass of brandy,
a glass of wine and a small teaspoonful of salaratus or pearl ash ;
stir the whole very hard, bake it in a buttered pan in a brisk oven.
This cake, if wrapped in a cloth, will keep a week in a soft state,
and even months, if buried under sugar or in a tight tin box.
DELICIOUS CITRON PUDDING. Beat until very thick and light the
yolks of 16 fresh eggs, stir in gradually, beat all the time, 3-4. of a
pound of sugar, then mix in three-quarters of a pound of melted
butter from which all the salt has been previously washed, then line
2 deep pie plates with puff paste, cut into thin slices, some preserv-
ed citron and lay closely over the pastry, leaving a margin around
the edges; fill with the batter and bake in an oven heated reg-
ularly but not too great. When drawn from the oven sift over them
finely pulverized white sugar. They are good whether eaten hot or
cold.
CRUST FOR BOILED PUDDINO. To 4 pounds of flour add one salt
spoonful of culinary alkali powder, mix well with a little water the
dough will be light
POTATO PUDDING. (Mrs. Tom Moun Randolph of Tuchohae.
Beat a pound of boiled baked sweet potatoes to a fine paste , while
beating moisten them with melted butter, (6 ounces are enough;)
sweeten with sugar or honey, mix in 6 well whisked eggs; mix all
till smooth, then stir in some rose water, a little wine and nutmeg;
bake in a pudding dish. Serve very hot.
SWEET OR IRISH POTATO PUDDING. Three-fourths pound of but-
ter, i 1-2 pound of sweet or Irish potatoes, juice and outer peel of
i lemon, i egg, beaten separately.
PLArN POTATO PUDDING. Take 1-2 pound of boiled potatoes, i
cup of butter, the yolks and whites of 2 eggs, 1-2 cup of cream, i
spoonful of California wine, a pinch of salt, the juice and rind of a
lemon; beat all to a froth and sugar to taste; a crust or not, as you
map approve. Bake it; if wanted richer add i spoonful of butter,
some sweetmeats and almonds and another egg.
FAMILY POTATO PUDDING FOR DESSERT. Wash to a pulp i Ib.
of boiled mealy potatoes, 1-4 pound of sugar, i ounce of almonds,
i 1-2 pound sweet almonds; all beaten fine and well mixed; cinna-
mon and cartoons to taste; 8 yolks of eggs; well mix the whole,
then beat the whites to a solid froth. Put all in a well greased or
buttered pan and sprinkle the pan with bread crumbs; put in a moder-
ate oven and bake.
N. B. This pudding can be boiled 2 hours in a form.
A SWEET POTATO PUDDING. (Old Virginia.) One pound each
of butter and sugar, 2 pounds of boiled, mashed and strained sweet
potatoes, then add the sugar and butter to the potatoes by degrees
SWEET PUDDINGS. 259
with 5 eggs well beaten; a glass of wine, i of brandy and i of rose
water; i cup of cream, 1-2 tablespoonful of alspice. Beat the whole
to a cfam. Bake in a deep pan or in a crust.
SWEET POTATO PUDDING. Potatoes, sugar, butter, cream, wine
or brandy, nutmeg, lemon peel and 4 eggs. Boil the potatoes till
thoroughly done, then mash fine, add the butter and sugar while it is
hot, allowing to every 2 pounds of potatoes 1-2 pound of sugar, one
half pound of butter, 1-2 cup sweet cream, 1-2 cup of strong wine
or brandy. Beat the eggs well while this mixture is cooling and add
the seasoning last. Line pie plates (earthen) with puff paste and
pour in the mixture. Bake in a regularly but moderately heated
oven. When done, take from the fire, cover the tops with quince
marmalade or with thinly sliced bits of citron ; then strew thickly
over this granulated white sugar and serve each person at the table
with this and a glass of rich, sweet milk. New Orlaans Housekeep-
ing.
SNOW CAP RICE PUDDING. Boil i Ib. of rice in 4 pints of new
sweet milk until it is thoroughly done and thick, add a little salt.
Take some earthen cups, dip them in cold water and pour the rice
in. When cold, turn them out in a dish and sift powdered loaf su-
gar and grated nutmeg over them and serve.
CORN STARCH BAKED PUDDING. Three tablespoonfuls of corn
starch to 2 pints of milk, dissolve the starch in some of the milk.
Put into the remainder of the milk 4 spoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of
salt, a piece of lemon peel or cinnamon stick, and heat nearly to
boiling, then add the mixed corn and boil, stirring it briskly 4 min-
utes, take out the rind and pour into a mould or cup and keep till
cold. When turned out pour round it any kind of stewed fruit or
preserves or sauce of milk and sugar.
BOILED CORN STARCH PUDDING. Three tablespoonfuls of the
corn starch to i quart of milk. Dissolve the corn in some of ihe
milk and mix with it 2 or 3 eggs well beaten and a little salt ; heat
the remainder of the milk to near boiling; add the above prepara-
ations and boil 4 minutes, stirring it briskly. Eat warm with sauce.
CRACKKD WHEAT PUDDING. Boil cracked wheat enough for two
meals ; stir in a few minutes before boiling up, dates or any dried
fruit ; next day prepare a custard as usual, and stir thoroughly the
wheat through and bake just long enough to bake the the custard ;
thus you nave two desserts with little trouble. Palatable and- nutri-
cious. Mrs. Lewis.
GRAHAM PUDDING CRUST. Make a crust of i pint of fine Gra-
ham flour and i gill of sweet, dried raspberries, with scalding water,
to the consistency proper for biscuits, roll 1-2 an inch thick, cut in
squares with sharp knife and bake 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve hot or cold.
260
SWEET PUDDINGS.
MUSH. A SOUTHERN RECIPE. Stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of dry
and fine cornmeal (a spoon at a time) in i 1-2 pints of boiling wa-
ter; stir till smooth, and constantly, with an iron spoon, till the meal
is thoreughly cooked and the mush of proper consistency. Eaten
warm or cold, with sweet milk or syrup.
INDIAN PUDDING. Four tablespoonfuls of Indian meal to i quart
of sweet milk, sweeten with honey, molasses or sugar. Mix the
meal and sweetening together and stir into the boiling milk, then i
cup of sweet cream or cold milk.
TAPIOCA PUDDING. Put 2 spoonfuls of tapioca, 11-2 pints milk,
i spoonful of white or brown sugar, a little salt, 1-2 cup of fresh but-
ter, into a pan and set it on the fire, boil gently for 15 minutes, until
the tapioca is tender, stirring now and then to prevent it sticking to
the bottom or burning ; then add 2 eggs well beaten. Steam or bake
and serve. It will take 20 minutes steaming, or 1-4 hour's boiling
slightly. Flavor either with lemon, cinnamon or any other essence.
TAPIOCA AND APPLE PUDDING. Pare 8 apples nice and (with
an apple-corer which no household should be without), remove the
cores; lay the apples in a buttered dish, take a cupful of tapioca or
or sago and pour over it i quart of water, let it stand a few minutes,
add 2 cups of sugar, a little lemon juice and grated peel, pour over
the apples and bake i hour.
IRISH POTATO PUDDING (Mrs. B.). One Ib. of mashed potatoes,
3-4 of a Ib. of butter, 3-4 Ib. of sugar, 7 eggs beaten light, i gill of
brandy and i of rose water. Beat the butter and eggs together and
add the other ingredients, and whites last of all. Bake with paste
or without, in a deep dish.
SWEET POTATO PUDDING. One Ib. of boiled potatoes, 3-4 Ib. of
sugar, 1-2 Ib. of butter, 6 eggs and a tablespoonful of brandy. Bake
in a buttered pan and serve hot.
BATTER PUDDING. Break 4 fresh eggs in a basin, add 3 table-
spoonfuls of flour; beat up your eggs with a wooden spoon until
quite smooth; add 1-2 pint of milk, 2 teaspoons salt, butter a tea-
cup, dish or basin and pour in your mixture, put some water in a
stew-pan, enough to reach half-way up the cup or basin, and boil 20
minutes, or till your pudding is well done, pass a knife around to loosen
it and turn out on a plate, pour pounded sugar and melted butter over
and serve. A little lemon, cinnamon or a drop or two of essence
may be introduced. Pour over it, if approved, a sauce made of but-
ter, sherry and sugar. If required more delicate, add a little less
flour. It maybe served plain.
BATTER PUDDING BAKED OR BOILED. Six oz. fine flour, a little
salt and 3 eggs well-beaten, with a little flour added by degrees until
it is the thickness of cream, put into a buttered dish and bake 3-4
SWEET PUDDINGS. 26l
of an hour ; or, if boiled, put it into a buttered and floured basin tied
over with a cloth ; boil i 1-2 hour.
BATTER PUDDING (Mrs. Price). Beat 5 eggs thoroughly, then
add 5 spoonfuls of flour and beat again till the mixture is smooth,
then add a little salt and 2 cups of milk, then stir well again. Butter
your dish ; put in batter and set the dish in a very hot oven and bake
30 minutes. Serve with sweet sauce while very hot.
COCOANUT BREAD PUDDING. Soak 1-2 tumblerful of prepared
cocoanut for 1-2 an hour or longer in boiling milk, then add three
times as much stale and fine bread crumbs as the cocoanut. Enrich
and flavor to suit the taste. For cocoanut half-pound pudding, take
1 cup of sugar, 1-2 cup of milk, 2 cups of flour, 2 cups cocoanut
soaked in milk, 2 tablespoon fuls of butter, 2 beaten eggs, 1-2 tea-
spoonful of soda, i teaspoonful cream tartar.
COCOANUT PUDDING (Macon, Ga.). One finely grated cocoa-
nut, the whites of 6 well-beaten eggs, 4 oz. butter, i quart of rich,
new milk, the juice of the cocoanut ; sugar to taste and flavor with
orange peel.
COCOANUT PUDDING IN PAPER MOULDS. Melt together a piece
of fresh butter the size of an egg, a tablespoonful of water and a
cupful of white powdered sugar, in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan ; boil
2 minutes, set off to cool, then have 1-2 cocoanut grated very fine,
mix with it a tablespoonful cut currants, the grated rind and juice of
half a lemon, 4 eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately, the
whites to a solid froth, adding the whites last, then fill up the paper
moulds and bake immediately. May be served either hot or cold ;
or the pudding may be put on a dish and baked ; but it is more dainty
to bake in moulds and serve on a plate for each person.
COCOANUT PUDDING (Mrs. Kendall's). One cocoanut, 3 eggs,
1-4 Ib. butter, 1-2 cup sweet milk ; sugar and spice to taste.
SMALL ALMOND PUDDING. Pound 8 oz. almonds and a few bit-
ter ones with a spoonful of water, mixed with 4 oz. warmed butter,
the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2 eggs, sugar to taste, 2
spoonfuls of cream and i of brandy ; mix well and bake in little
cups buttered. Serve with pudding sauce.
THUM PUDDING. Blanch, peel and chop very fine 2 oz. almonds
and some lemon peel ; put them in a sauce-pan with a pint of milk
and sugar to taste ; when this begins to boil, stir in slowly a cup-
ful ground rice, and let it boil 10 minutes, stirring the whole time.
Pour in a mould, and when cold turn it out ; put 2 oz. white sugar
in a pan with a little water ; stir in till melted and becomes a light
golden brown ; add a pint of milk ; bring this to a boil, then strain
it and add the yolks of 4 eggs; put the strained miik and eggs on
the fire and stir till it thickens, then pour it round the pudding.
262 SWEET PUDDINGS.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING (Mrs. Lane). Boil i quart of milk, then
stir in it i 1-2 cakes grated chocolate; let it stand 1-4 hour, then
stir in 6 well-beaten eggs, save out the whites of 4 eggs ; 2-3 cup of
sugar. Bake in a deep dish, as you would a custard ; beat the whites,
add 4 spoonfuls of white sugar ; spread this froth over the top, and
set it back in the oven. Bake a light brown. Eat cold.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING. Half Ib. grated chocolate, the yolks of 8
eggs well-beaten, 12 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1-2 glass wine, 1-2 tea-
spoonful alspice, i cup powdered crackers ; mix the whole thor-
oughly and smoothly; then beat the whites of the eggs to a solid
froth. Bake slowly and well, after pouring smoothly the beaten
whites on the top.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING (Mrs. P.). One quart milk, ^ tablespoon -
fuls sugar, 4 of corn starch, 2 1-2 of chocolate ; scald the milk over
boiling water; dissolve the corn starch in a little scalded milk, and
before it thickens add the chocolate in boiling water; stir until suffi-
ciently cooked. Use with cream or sauce of butter and sugar stir-
red to a cream.
WHITE ALMOND PUDDING ICES (Mrs. B.). Scald and skin four
oz. almonds with 6 or 8 bitter ones, put on a sieve to drain and dry ;
when cold put them in a mortar with 1-2 oz. sugar and ten or a dozen
candied pieces of orange flowers, pound them we'll in a mortar, pass
through a wire sieve and place in a stew-pan with the beaten yolks
8 egs, beat all the ingredients well together, then in another sauce-
pan have boiling 3 cups of milk, which pour over the mixture by de-
grees; keeping it stirred, place it over the fire, stirring it till it thickens,
and adheres to the back of the spoon. When cold put it into your
freezing pot, and when half-frozen add 3 cups of whipped cream ;
when quite frozen fill a mould and serve as pudding.
FROZEN PUDDING. First make a custard of 6 cups of new sweet
milk with 9 well-beaten eggs, separated (whites and yolks), 4 oz.
each of citron chopped fine, currants, raisins seeded and chopped
fine, preserved peaches, with a tablespoonful of arrowroot, 4 oz. of
scraped chocolate. Stir till smooth, sweeten to taste and freeze in a
shape.
ICED PUDDING. Parboil some of the best Southern rice, 1-2 Ib.,
then put it into a boiler with 3 cups of new, sweet milk and 2 cups
of double cream or very thick, rich cream, 3-4 Ib. sugar, a little salt,
2 sticks of cinnamon or vanilla ; let the whole boil very gently over
a slow fire ; when the grains are almost melted, stirring it now and
then, and when the rice is boiling hot, add the yolks of 6 eggs well beat-
en, then stir all together for a few minutes, then slice up 2 dozen
apricots or i dozen peaches, both peel and boil them with 3-4 11). of
sugar and i cup of water, until the fruit is soft enough to pass through
SWEET PUDDINGS. 263
a sieve ; if thick, thin with a little syrup ; then freeze in the usual
way by placing the foam in the freezing mixture, and then pouring
in the fruit, the rice custard also being frozen in the same manner.
The two ices being prepared, a mould should be lined with the apri-
cot ice, about 1-2 thick, then fill up the hollow space with the frozen
ice custard ; put the closely fitting lid on the mould and keep it im-
mersed in the pounded ice till about to be served, then turn it on a
a dish surrounded with whipped cream nicely flavored, in hollow or
gouffres papers.
ICED PUDDING (Denison Recipe) Half pound sweet almonds,
2 oz. bitter ones, 3-4 Ib. sugar, 8 eggs, 1-2 pint milk. Blanch
the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then pound them in a mortar and
beat till reduced to a smooth paste ; add to these the well-beaten eggs,
the sugar and milk, stir these ingredients over the fire until they
thicken, but do not let them boil ; then steam and put the mixture
into the freezing-pot ; surround it with ice and freeze as directed for
iced apple pudding. When quite frozen fill an iced pudding mould,
put on the lid and keep the pudding in ice until required for the ta-
ble ; then turn it out on a dish and garnish it with a compote of any
kind of fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the top of
the pudding. This pudding may be flavored with vanilla, curacoa
or marasquino 1-2 hour to freeze the mixture. Always seasonable.
TRANSPARENT PUDDING. (Mrs. Beattie.) Beat thoroughly to-
gether 8 eggs and i pound of white sugar together, put 1-2 pound
of sweet, fresh butter in a bell-metal kettle and melt over a slow
fire, then stir in the beaten eggs and sugar to the butter till the
mixture becomes transparent ; pour on a crust of baked pastry
and set in a moderate oven till it becomes a very light brown; serve.
A genuine centennial receipt.
PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS. Grate a thick slice of bread fine, pour.
a pint of boiling milk over it and cover close up for 1-2 hour ;
then add some marmalade, grated lemon or any flavoring you like ;
sugar to taste and 1-2 teaspoonful of salt. If desired add a glass
of wine; pour all into a pudding dish and bake for 1-4 hour.
RAILROAD PUDDING. One cup of molasses, i cup of cream, i
cup of sour milk, i teaspoonful of soda, and mix with cold water
to the consistency of a stiff batter. This is sufficient for 4 cups.
Steam 20 minutes. To be eaten with sweetened cream.
WAFER PUDDING. One tablespoonful of flour, 2 ounces of but-
ter, 2 eggs, a quarter of a pint of milk, i lemon ; beat the but-
ter to a cream, sift the flour in gradually, pare and finely mince
the rind only of the lemon, add the eggs, yolks and whites well
beaten to the milk and mix all thoroughly. Bake in well buttered
saueers for 20 minutes ; serve with sifted sugar ; care must be taken
that the oven is not too hot.
264 SWEET PUDDINGS.
COLLEGE PUDDING. One pint of bread crumbs, 6 ounces of
finely chopped suet, 1-4 pound of currants, a few thin slices of can-
died peel, 3 ounces of sugar, 1-4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls
of brandy ; put the bread crumbs into a basin, add the suet, currants,
candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg grated, and stir these ingredients
until they are thoroughly mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the
pudding with these and put in the brandy ; beat well for a few min-
utes, then form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces,
fry these in hot butter or lard, letting them stew till thoroughly done,
and turn them over 2 or 3 times till of a bright brown, drain them
on a piece of blotting paper before the fire, dish and serve with wine
sauce." Fry from 15 to 20 minutes. Sufficient for 7 or 8 puddings.
Seasonable at any time.
UNIVERSITY PUDDING. Grate the crust of a small loaf, chop very
fine 8 ounces beef suet, mix with 8 ounces currants, i ounce citron,
1 ounce orange, 3 spoonfuls of sugar, 1-2 nutmeg, 3 eggs beaten,
yolks and whites separately, mix and make into the size and shape
of goose egg ; put 1-2 pound of butter into a frying pan, and when
melted and quite hot stew them gently in it over a stove ; turn them
2 or 3 times till of a fine brown color; mix a glass of brandy with
the batter. Serve with pudding sauce.
ROLY POLY JAM PUDDING. Three-fourth pound of suet crust
(see receipt), 3-4 pound of any kind of jam, make a nice light suet
crust and roll it out to the thickness of 1-2 inch, spread the jam
equally over it, leaving a small margin of paste without any where
the pudding joins, roll it up, fasten the ends securely and tie it in a
floured cloth ; put the pudding in boiling water and boil it 2 hours.
Minced meat or mountain cake may be substituted for the jam, and
makes an excellent pudding. Boil for 2 hours. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Suitable for winter pudding.
BRANDY PUDDING. Line a mould with raisins, stoned and chop
ped or dried cherries, mix with slices of French roll, then some rata-
fia or macaroons, after which place in layers, fruits, rolls and cakes in
succession till the mould is full, pour over the whole two glasses of
brandy, beat up the yolks and the whites of 4 eggs, then to a pint of
cream lightly sweetened put 1-2 a nutmeg and the rind of a lemon,
both grated. Suffer the liquid to soak up the whole, then flour a
cloth, tie it overall and boil i hour, keeping the mould the right side
upward. Serve with pudding sauce.
MINCED PUDDING. Take 1-2 pound each of sugar and raisins,
1-4 each of currants and chopped citron, i dozen apples chopped
fine, and a lemon or an orange sliced, i tablespoonful of ground spice,
nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves ; mix all well together, then one loaf
of stale bread grated, 1-4 pound butter; grease your baking dish
SWEET PUDDINGS. 265
with butter, dredge the sides and bottom with bread crumbs, then
first put in a layer of the fruit mixture, then some of the batter, then
the bread. Thus fill up the dish io alternate layers to next to the last,
with the last layer of butter and the top of bread crumbs.
SAUCE FOR MINCED PUDDING. A clear sauce as for any other pud-
ding.
LENT PUDDING. Simmer a quart of cream with 2 or 3 blades of
mace, take it off the fire and add the yolks of 8 eggs and whites of
4; stone and clip in half 1-2 pound of raisins, sugar 1-2 pound, and
butter 1-4 pound ; stir all well together, dip a cloth in milk, spread it
with butter, strew with flour, put in the pudding, tie it up close and
boil 3-4 hour. Serve with melted butter and sugar.
DELHI OR ORIENTAL PUDDING. Four large apples, some grated
nutmeg, i teaspoonful of minced lemon peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls
of sugar, 6 ounces of currants, 3-4 pound of suet crust ; pare, core,
and cut the apples into slices, put them into a sauce pan with the
nutmeg, lemon peel and sugar, stir them over the fire till soft, then
have ready the above proportion of crust, roll it out thin, spread the
apples over the paste, sprinkle over the currants, roll the pudding up,
closing the ends properly, tie it in a floured cloth and boil for two
hours. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
SCIENTIFIC RECIPE OF THK CARTHEGENIAN PUDDING. Put a
pound of red wheat flour into water; when it has steeped sometime
transfer it to a wooden bowl, add 3 pounds of cream cheese, 1-2 Ib.
of honey and i egg. Beat the whole together and cook it in a stew-
pan over a slow fire.
HERODITUS PUDDING. One-half pound of bread crumbs, 1-2 Ib.
of figs, 6 ounces of suet, 6 ounces of moist sugar, 1-2 pound of salt,
3 eggs, nutmeg to taste. Mince the suet and figs very finely, add
the remaining ingredients, taking care that the eggs be well whisked ;
beat the mixture for 2 few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie
it down with a floured cloth and boil the pudding for five hours. Sea-
sonable at any time.
COTTAGE PUDDING. Take ripe currants, and having stripped them
from the stalks, measure as many as will make a quart, cover the bot-
tom of a deep dish with slices of bread slightly buttered and with
crust cut off; put a thick layer of currants over the bread and then
a layer of sugar, and then other layers of bread, currants and sugar,
till the dish is full, finishing at the top with thin slices of bread. Set
it into the oven and bake it half an hour. Serve it either warr.i or
cold, and eat it with sweetened milk.
STEAMED BATTER PUDDING. One quart sour milk, i 1-2 teaspoon-
ful soda, 2 eggs, i cup sugar, i cup fruit, 1-2 teaspoonful salt, and
flour to make a stiff batter. Steam 2 hours.
266 SWBBT PUDDINGS.
AMHERST PUDDING. Two cups flour, 3-4 cup of molasses, i cup
of milk (cream preferable), i cup of chopped raisins; i cup of chop-
ped suet, i teaspoon of soda ; spice to the taste. Steam three
hours.
SPOONFUL PUDDING. A spoonful of milk, a little nutmeg, gin-
ger and salt ; a spoonful of flour, an egg, mixed well together and
boil it in a pudding dish; for one person.
MELON-SHAPED PUDDING. Mix i pound each of suet and flour,
3-4 pound currants or raisins, 6 eggs, a little good milk, sweet
and new, a little salt, some lemon peel. Bake in a melon-shape
6 hours.
PUDDING (Turkish.) Moisten and press twelve ounces of
figs through a sieve, add 6 ounces each of chopped suet, sugar
and bread crumbs; 2 eggs beaten and a cup of peel ; mix well and
put into a mould and boil for 4 hours. Serve with brandy sauce.
PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. Sugar and eggs ; brown before the fire
or dropped as fritters into a frying pan without fat ; will make them
a nourishing meal.
A QUICK-MADE PUDDING. One half pound each of flour and
suet, 4 eggs, a cup of new milk, a little mace and nutmeg, 1-4 Ib.
of raisins and 1-4 pound of currants. Mix well and boil 45 min-
utes with the cover on the pot, or it will require longer.
PUDDING IN HASTE. Mix shread suet with grated bread crumbs,
a handful of currants cleaned or a few stoned raisins, the beat yolks
of 3 eggs and the white of i with a little grated lemon peel to a stif-
fish paste; roll this in flour, and with two spoons make it into
small balls ; have ready a pan of fast boiling water, drop them
in. When done they will rise to the top.
INDIAN HASTY PUDDING. Place on the fire 3 quarts of boiling
water with a little salt, stir in by degrees 3 quarts of Indian meal
and 1-4 pound of butter. It should be stirred until quite thick.
Serve it hot and eat it with milk or cream, and sugar.
SHAKER'S PUDDINU. Boil some large mace, sliced ginger and
nutmeg; laurel leaves in a quart of sweet cream, then add almonds
beaten in rose water 4 ounces, whites of 8 eggs ; strain all these to-
gether, mingle with a sufficient quantity of grated bread, sweeten to
taste with loaf sugar or honey, add a pinch of salt, tie it very light
in a pudding cloth well floured or buttered, put it into fast boiling
water and boil it i hour, or it may be baked. Serve with wine sauce
or melted butter, sugar and lemon juice or with honey melted
with butter and flavored with nutmeg.
SHAKING PUDDING. Scald a quart of cream, when almost cold
put to it 4 eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of flour, some
nutmeg and sugar, tie it close in a buttered cloth, boil it i hour
SWEET PUDDINGS.
and turn it out with care lest it should crack. Eat it with melted
butter and a little wine and sugar.
EDINBURGH FIG PUDDING. Three-fourth pound grated bread,
1-2 pound best figs, 6 ounces suet, 6 ounces moist sugar, i teacup-
ful of milk and a little nutmeg. The figs and suet must be chopped
very fine; mix the bread and suet first and then the figs, suet and
nutmeg; one well beaten egg, lastly the milk. Boil in a mould four
hours. To be eaten with wine sauce.
COAST RANGE PUDDING. Four tablespoonfuls rice or semolina, i
pint of cream, 3 spoons of butter, mix all together in a stew pan,
put it over the fire, stirring all the time till it boils ; when quite thick
take it off the fire and add 5 eggs, the whites of 2, i 1-2 cup of su-
gar (loaf,) a little salt and nutmeg, bake an hour, then have another
dish, on which put a layer of raspberry jam, then the pudding, then
a layer of apricot jam.
COMARQUES PUDDING Excellent. Five eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, rind of i lemon, 1-2 pint
of cream and different kinds of preserves. Beat the whites and yolks
of the eggs separately and put them into different basins ; stir the
flour, sugar and lemon peel into the yolks, whip the cream very thick
and put it on a sieve to harden, then add it with the whites of the
eggs to the other ingredient, and pour the mixture into little, deep
saucers just before putting into the oven. Bake about half an hour.
When taken out a very thin layer of different kinds of preserves
should be put upon each, and they should be piled one above the
other, a little whipped cream placed here and there upon the pud-
ding, as a garnish would be found to improve the appearance of this
dish. Bake about 1-2 hour. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Season-
able at any time.
SAN JOSE PUDDING. Put 1-2 pound of butter in ajar and stand
the jar in hot water until the butter is melted ; stir with 1-2 pound
pounded loaf sugar and beat them well together till the butter is
nearly cold, stir to this the grated rind of two large lemons and
add their juice, beat 6 eggs, whites and yolks separately, add them
to the mixture, beat all well together. Line a pie dish with puff paste,
cover the bottom of it with preserved apricots, peaches, raspberries
or strawberries, pour the mixture over it, ornament the edge and
bake in a moderate oven for 1-2 hour. Serve this cold.
GRAND HOTEL PUDDING. Make a thick batter by boiling and
sweetening milk and flour; when cold and finer mash it up and
add i 1-2 cup of butter, melted; i 1-2 cup of currants, 2 oz.
candied lemon and orange peel sliced and a little brandy if ap-
proved Butter teacups and bake the pudding in them for fifteen
minutes. Turn them out on a dish and pour fine sauce over them
268 SWEET PUDDINGS.
if to be eat hot. If to make a cold ornamental supper dish omit
the wine sauce.
PUDDING BOILED. One-half cup of molasses, i cup of chop-
ped raisins, i cup of milk, 1-3 of butter, 1-2 teaspoonful ofsala-
ratus and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Boil 3 hours ; eat
with a rich sauce. Mrs. Lane.
SAN FRANCISCO PUDDING WITH SAUCE. Beat for one minute ten
eggs in a basin, and while doing so add 4 ounces of pounded
sugar, i 1-2 pints of boiled milk, two spoonfuls of kirschen \\as-
ser and strain the custard through a hair sieve or cloth into a
basin ; seed a cupful of raisins, pick, wash and dry 1-2 cup of cur-
rants, 3 pounded apricots, 1-2 cup of dried cherries. Butter a
plain pudding mould, put a round of paper at the bottom and set
in a 1-4 inch layer of the mixed fruit, on this a layer of finger
biscuits or slices of sponge cake ; continue the alternate layers till
the mould is 2-3 full, pour in the custard slowly, let it stand for
a few minutes and cook the pudding slowly without boiling, turn
it out of the mould on to a dish and serve with a sauce made as fol-
lows :
Break 8 yolks of eggs in a stew pan with 1-2 pint of syrup, stir
over the fire until the sauce cools the spoon, add i gill of Kirsch-
enwasser, strain the sauce through a cloth and serve in a bowl with
the pudding.
MRS. MADISON'S PUDDING. Melt 1-2 pound of butter by setting
it in a basin floating with hot water and gradually mix with it the
beaten yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four, sweeten with fine
pounded sugar and season with the grate of a lemon and a little nut-
meg. Bake in a dish with an ornamented paste border and when
ready stick slices of citron or candied orange peel round the edges.
CONFEDERATE PUDDING. (Mrs. Alexander Duvall, Richmond,
Va ) Four cups boiling sweet milk, a large spoonful of sweet butter
melted in it and poured hot on a pint of bread crumbs. When cold
stir in a cupful of white sugar, the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, season
with grated orange peel and bake. While hot spread thereon the
whites beaten to a solid froth and floured with fine white sugar and
bitter almonds ; set in the oven again and bake 5 minutes.
ROYAL COCKNEY PUDDING. One pint of new milk, 6 oz. of flour,
6 ounces of sugar, 6 ounces of butter, 6 ounces of currants, 6 eggs,
brandy and grated nutmeg to taste. Mix the flour to a smooth bat-
ter with the milk, add the remaining ingredients gradually, and when
well mixed put it into fruit basins or moulds 1-2 full, bake for 3-4
hour. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
CREAM PUDDING. Six eggs, i tablespoonful of sugar, a piece of
soda the size of a pea, 8 tablespoonfuls of flour; i teaspoouful salt,
SWEET PUDDINGS. 269
i 1-2 pints of cream or milk. Serve with some sauce or sugar and
butter well beaten.
CREAM PUDDING. Two spoonfuls of flour, t spoonful of sugar,
mix them with a pint of cream and 8 yolks of eggs ; boil or steam it
in a basin, tie over with a cloth ; 3-4 of an hour.
SNOW PUDDING. Pour enough cold water on a box of gelatine to
cover it, let it remain a few moments, then add a pint of boiling wa-
ter; when dissolved add juice of one lemon and 4 cups of sugar
powdered. Stir till cold, then stir in the beaten whites of six eggs ;
stir all for i hour. Make a rich custard of yolks of eggs and use a
sauce.
COWSLIP PUDDING. Two quarts cowslip pips, pound them small
with 1-2 Ib. Naples biscuit grated and 3 pints cream. Boil them to-
gether, then beat up 10 eggs with a little cream and water sweetened
to your taste ; mix the whole well, butter a dish and pour the ingre-
dients in, with a little fine sugar over all, and bake it.
PAN CAKE PUDDING. Take i quart of milk, 4 eggs and 2 large
spoonfuls flour, with ^ome salt and grated ginger. Beat all up into
a smooth batter and put it into a buttered dish. When baked pour
over it melted butter.
EGG PUDDING. One quart milk, 8 beaten eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls
soda and flour to make a stiff batter. Bake in a quick oven.
PLAIN SWEET PUDDING (Mrs. Tom. M. Randolph, of Tucka-
hoe). Boil i quart of milk, stirring in very slowly as much flour as
will make it pretty thick, take it off the fire and stir in 1-2 Ib. butter,
1-2 Ib. sugar, a small nutmeg grated (beginning at the blossom end),
the yolks of '12 and the whites of 6 eggs well whisked. Pour the
batter into a pudding dish and bake rather more than 1-2 hour.
Serve with sweet sauce flavored to suit the taste.
A RICH PUDDING (Contributed by Mrs. P. W., of San Francisco,
Cal.). Six eggs, 3 spoonfuls of flour, i pint of milk, i teaspoonful
salt ; beat the yolks and whites separately ; mix the well-beaten
yolks with the flour, add the milk and stir till perfectly smooth, then
add the whites whisked to a stiff froth and work them in and bake
immediately.
BUTTERMILK PUDDING. Warm 3 quarts of new buttermilk and
turn it with i quart of buttermilk; drain the curd through a sieve,
and when dry pound it in a marble mortar with 1-2 Ib loaf sugar, a
lemon boiled tender, the crumbs of a roll grated, a nutmeg, also
grated, 6 bitter almonds, i 1-4 cups of butter, warm; a teaspoonful
of cream, the yolks of 5 eggs and the whites of 3, a glass of wine
and another of brandy. Bake in small cups or basins well-buttered,
and, if the bottoms are not burned, use a salamander. Serve hot
and with pudding sauce.
27O SWEET PUDDINGS.
GINGER PUDDING. Put 12 sponge biscuits, soaked in a pint of
cream or milk, 10 eggs, 2 oz. preserved root ginger, cut in small
pieces, a spoonful of the ginger syrup and i spoonful melted butter.
Bake it in a dish lined with tart paste, or boil in a mould standing in
a stew-pan with a little water.
HALF- FROG PUDDING. Half Ib suet, 1-3 Ib. currants, 1-4 Ib.
raisins, 1-4 Ib. flour, 1-4 bread crumbs, 2 teaspoonfuls treacle, 1-2
pint milk; chop the suet finely, mix it with the currants, which should
be stoned, the flour, the bread crumbs and treacle ; moisten with the
milk, beat 'up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put
them into a buttered basin and boil the pudding 31-2 hours. Al-
ways seasonable.
PUMPKIN PUDDING. Take i 1-2 pints milk and i tablespoonful
bolted corn meal and 1-2 spoonful flour, i cup boiled pumpkin ; mix
with a little of the milk and pour the rest of the milk boiling hot
over the mixture, stirring all the time, add a little salt, sweeten to
taste, and when cool add 2 eggs well beaten ; have ready a buttered
dish, pour the whole into it and bake 40 minutes. It should be out
of the oven 15 minutes before serving.
AMBER PUDDING. Put i Ib. butter into a sauce-pan with 3-4 Ib.
loaf sugar finely powdered ; melt the butter and mix it well with it,
then add the yolks of 15 eggs, well beaten, and as much fresh can-
died orange as will add color and flavor to it, being first beaten to a
fine paste. Line the dish with paste for turning out, as you would
a pie, and bake in a slow oven. It it is as good cold as hot.
AUNT MARY'S LIGHT PUDDING. Melt 3 spoonfuls butter in a pint
of cream and let it stand until nearly cold ; then mix 2 spoonfuls
fine flour and 2 of whiie sugar, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs and
add a little orange flower water. Bake 1-2 hour in little buttered
cups. They should be served the moment they are done, and only
when going to be eaten, or they will not be light. Turn out of the
cups and serve with white wine and sugar.
ROSA'S PUDDING. -Beat almonds very fine that have been scalded
and peeled, and add 2 spoonfuls rose water or cream, strain the
whole through a hair sieve, boil it and set it by to cool, then thicken
it with beaten eggs, sweeten it with lump sugar dissolved in rose
water, tie it up in different bags, boil 1-2 hour in a small saucepan,
and melt butter with rose water and sugar for the sauce. These cu-
rious puddings may be colored with spinach juice, saffron, beets or
other articles.
CHESTNUT PUDDING, NESSELRODE FASHION. Scald 4 dozen large
chestnut or 8 dozen small ones in boiling water, remove the hulls
and brown skins, lay them on a coarse sieve to dry, then take them
when cold and pound them well in a mortar with a pound of white
SWEET PUDDINGS. 2 7 T
sugar, f-2 stick of vanilla, then sift the whole through a fine wire
sieve and put the mixture into a bowl with 12 yolks of eggs well
beaten and stir the whole together, put it into a stewpan ; then in
another stewpan have ready a quart of boiling milk, pour this over
the ingredients, mixing well ; set it on a sharp fire and stir it well
till it begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon, then
lay a tammy cloth upon a large dish and put the mixture in and rub
it through with two wooden spoons. When cold place it in a freez-
ing-pot and freeze in an ice-pail surrounded with ice and salt, the
pot being in the center, as ice creams and other mixtures. When
frozen have a large, high ice mould, which closes hermetically. Have
also 2 oz. currants and 2 oz. Smyrna raisins soaked in 4 glasses of
Marasquino from the previous day, with 4 oz. candied citron chop-
ped coarsely or in pellets, put them into the freezing-pot with a pint
of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation for meringue
a la cuillie (which see), freeze the whole well together and fill your
mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve, then dip the
pot into lukewarm water and strike gently, taking the mould in your
right hand, place your left on, turn it over and let it gradually slip
into the dish.
CHESTNUT PUDDING. Boil i pint of chestnuts in water for 15
minutes, then peel them, beat these in a mortar with a little orange
flower water and white wine till they make a fine paste. Beat and
mix 12 eggs and 1-2 the whites, grate 1-2 a nutmeg, add a little sail
with 3 pints of cream, 1-2 Ib. melted butter, sweeten to your taste,
put it over the fire and keep stirring till it is thick ; lay puff-paste
over your dish, put in your pudding and bake it.
PEA PUDDING. Boil i quart of split peas in a cloth till tender,
mash and rub them through a sieve ; add 3 whole eggs, i cup but-
ter, salt and pepper to taste; tie it up in a cloth and let it boil thirty
minutes again, then turn it out ; or it will do very well with the eggs.
Be sure the liquor fat boils when you first put in the pudding. This
is the great secret of having peas floury, whether in pudding or soup.
By no means soak the peas previous to boiling, which is a long-es-
tablished, and very common practice. Any person who will impar-
tially try both ways will be convinced of the truth of these observa-
tions.
CARROT PUDDING. Grate 1-2 Ib. of the best part of a raw carrot
and double the quantity of bread ; mix 8 beaten yolks of eggs and
4 whites of the eggs together, with 1-2 pint of new milk, and melt
1-2 Ib. fresh butter with 1-2 Ib. white wine, 3 spoonfuls of orange
flower water, a grated nutmeg and sugar ; stir the whole, if too
thick, and add new milk ; lay a puff-paste over the dish and bake i
hour. Serve it with grated sugar. This pudding will become more
27 2 SWEET PUDDINGS.
delicious by substituting Naples biscuit and cream for the bread and
milk, and adding a glass of ratafia to the orange flower water. Some
boil the carrots, and thereby the saccharine virtue is lost.
HERB PUDDWG. Scald, wash and shred very fine a handfull of
spinach, beets, parsley and leeks, or as many as you may like. Have
ready i quart groats or barley steeped 1-2 hour in warm water, i Ib.
of pork fat cut into small pieces, 2 or 3 large onions chopped small,
3 sage leaves well picked ; put in a little salt ; mix all well together
and tie up close. Boil i hour, and the bag must be loosened while
boiling to give the pudding room to swell.
SPINACH PUDDING. Pick and clean i gallon spinach, put into it
a little salt; cover it close, and when it has boiled tender throw it into
a sieve to drain, then chop it up with a knife, beat up 6 eggs mixed
well with 1-2 pint of cream, a stale roll grated fine, a little nutmeg
and i cup melted butter , stir the whole and put it into the sauce-
pan the spinach was boiled in ; keep on stirring till it begins to
thicken, then wet and flour a cloth, tie up the pudding and boil it an
hour. When done turn it out on a dish.
BREAD AND MARROW PUDDINGS. After the skins are thoroughly
cleaned, soak them all night in water, then halt-fill them with a mix-
ture of 1-2 Ib. blanched almonds chopped into 7 or 8 pieces, i Ib.
giated bread, 2 Ibs. marrow or suet, i Ib. currants, some pounded
cinnamon and cloves, mace and nutmegs, i quart of cream, the
yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 2 eggs, a little orange flower wa-
ter, some loaf sugar, lemon peel and citron sliced. Boil them in
milk and water, and take care to preserve them from bursting by
pricking them with a fork.
MARROW AND ALMOND PUDDING. Chop i Ib. beef marrow and
1-2 Ib. of sweet almonds blanched; beat them fine with orange
flower or rose water; take 1-2 Ib grated bread, the same quantity of
currant . 1-4 Ib. fine sugar, i teaspoonful (even) each of mace, nut-
meg and cinnamon, and 1-2 pint wine; mix these with 1-2 pint of
cream and the yolks of 4 eggs, half-fill the skins, tie them up and
boil them 1-4 hour.
BEEF MARROW AND SWEET POTATO PUDDING. Take an equal
portion of Beef marrow and sweet potatoes that have been boiled
and nicely peeled and mashed and the strings removed by straining
through a coarse hair sieve, and sugar or honey, 6 well-beaten eggs,
i teaspoonful pounded nutmeg or alspice ; beat the whole thoroughly,
bake in a deep earthen dish, serve and eat hot. If wished, 1-2 cup
of wheat or rice flour or boiled rice may be added and beaten with
the other ingredients. Let it be tried and it will be found to be the
best of puddings.
PERSIMMON PUDDING. Bread crumbs, 4 02. ; beef suet, chopped
SWEET PUDDINGS. 273 '
fine, a large spoonful ; i small spoonful butter, 3 eggs, 6 oz. white
sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, a large pinch each of cinnamon and
cloves and nutmeg, all in powder; work the persimmons to a cream,
theu squeeze them through a coarse sieve to remove the seeds and
skins ; then add all the ingredients together with the well-beaten
eggs and a cupful of milk or more and mix thoroughly. Bake or
boil for 4 or 5 hours in a pudding mould well greased with lard, but-
ter or cotton seed oil. Very nice. N. B. Dates can also be used
in the place of the persimmons. Boil for 4 or 5 hours. Some use
bolted corn meal instead of the bread crumbs or flour.
CUSTARD PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. Boil for 3 minutes a small
piece of lemon peel and a piece of bay leaf in 2 cups or i pint of milk,
then whisk well together 3 eggs and i large spoonful of sugar; over
these pour the boiled milk ; pour into a buttered mould and steam it
for 25 minutes in a pan with some water, Turn it on a plate or dish
and serve.
PUDDING, QUEEN'S CUSTARD. Procured from an English house-
keeper. Two ounces of patent barley, i ounce of sifted sugar, 1-2
ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and a pint of milk. Mix thor-
oughly and stir it over the fire until it boils, then add the yolks of 2
beaten eggs. Pour into a buttered pie dish. Bake in a quick
oven.
CUSTARD Mrs. Cordova, Jamaica, W. I. One pint of milk, 1-2
pound of white sugar, 4 eggs, a little rose water, flavoring of other
essence, almonds, or anything else with flour to make a very stiff
batter worked or stirred well. To be baked or boiled.
CURD PUDDINGS OR PUFFS. Turn 2 quarts of milk, press out
the whey, rub it through a sieve, and mix i cup of butter, the
crumbs of a small loaf, 1-2 cup of cream, 1-2 nutmeg, a small
quantity of sugar and 2 spoonfuls of California white wine. But-
ter little cups or small pastry pans and fill them. Orange flower
water is an improvement. Bake with care. Serve with sweet sauce.
ORANGE PUDDING. May be made in the same way, using the
orange and peel in the place of the lemon.
MOLASSES PUDDING. One gill of brandy, 1-2 pound of butter,
i pint of molasses, i pound of sugar, 8 eggs, 3 pints of flour,
i 1-2 pint of new milk, i teaspoonful of soda. Flavor with nut-
meg.
MARROW PUDDING. (Mrs. Jeanson.) One pound of marrow
soaked all night in salt and water, then washed in fresh water;
drain off the water, squeeze it dry in a cloth, chop fine and beat
it in a mortar or bowl up to a snow or foam. Add 6 spoonfuls
each of flour and sugar, i cup of milk, 4 eggs ; flavor to taste with
lemon or vanilla. Put into a buttered earthen dish and bake in a
quick oven.
274 SWEET PUDDINGS.
SMALL RICE PUDDING. Prepare 4 ounces of rice as above di-
rected and put to it 3 ounces of fresh butter and 1-2 pint of cream
or i pint of milk simmered till thick ; when cold mix in sugar to
taste and 6 well beaten yolks of eggs, with the whites of 3, grated
lemon peel, a little cinnamon and nutmeg. Butter small cups and
fill 3 parts full, putting in each a few slices of citron or orange ; bake
3-4 of an hour in a moderate oven. Serve the moment before eaten
with sweet sauce in a dish or bowl.
PLAIN RICE PUDDING. Wash well and pick some rice; then put
amongst it some pimento finely pounded, but not much ; tie the rice
in a cloth and leave plenty of room for it to swell ; boil it in a quan-
tity of water for an hour or two. When done eat it with butter and
sugar or milk. Grate lemon peel if you wish. It is very good eaten
without spice and eaten with salt and butter.
RICE PUDDING WITH FRUIT. Swell the rice in a very little milk
over the fire, then mix fruit of any kind with it (currants, gooseber-
ries scalded, apples, pared, cored and quartered ; raisins or black
currants) ; put i egg into the rice to bind it. Boil it well and serve
with sugar. RICE PUDDING should be boiled 1-2 hour.
RICE PUDDING WITH STEWED APPLES. Blanch 4 ounces of rice
in i pint of milk, 3 ounces fresh butter, bring to a boil, put in the
blanched rice and let it, well covered, steam slowly for i hour with-
out stirring it. It will then be sufficiently swelled soft and dry.
Take it from the fire, empty it into another vessel, let it cool and
stir in 2 ounces of pulverized sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs and the
grated peel of i lemon, then mix in the whites of six eggs beaten to
a stiff froth, and finish the pudding. Serve with sweet sauce.
CURRANT AND MARROW PUDDING. With 5 pints of milk boil i
lemon peel and a teaspoonful of cinnamon and strain it ; add 8 oz.
of chopped marrow, 4 ounces of currants, 4 ounces citron sliced,
1-2 nutmeg grated, i glass of brandy and 12 sponge biscuits. When
the mixture is cold add 8 yolks of eggs and 3 whites of eggs. Bake
in a dish lined with tart paste. A few almonds or a little candied
citron or orange peel may be put to this pudding for variety. A
little finely sifted sugar may be strewed over the top, or a few blanch-
ed almonds may be stuck around it in a flat dish. Twenty minutes
will bake it. In a deep dish it will require 30 minutes, or it may be
boiled in a pudding shape. This pudding will keep, and cut in firm
slices, which may be broiled or heated in an oven.
BIRD'S NEST PUDDING. Take a dozen sound and round apples,
wash and take out the cores, but do not open them all the way
through ; put some rich cream into the bottom of a dish and lay
them in it ; fill the holes in the apples with sugar, grated orange peel
or mace or nutmeg, or the raspings of a lemon peel ; pour over
them nice, rich custard or butter, and bake i hour.
SWEET CAKES. 27$
SWEET CAKES.
CREAM CAKE. One cup of sugar, i 1-2 cups of flour, 3 eggs, 2
tablespoons of cold water and i teaspoon of yeast powder. Cream
for the same, i pint of milk, 2 large spoons of corn starch and i of
sugar. Flavor with extract of vanilla.
GOLDEN GATE CAKES. Rub 1-2 Ib. of butter, i Ib. of pounded
loaf sugar, i oz. caraway seeds, 4 spoonfuls each of brandy and
sack, into i Ib. of the finest flour, with enough rose water to form a
paste ; then make it up into little thin cakes ; wash them over with
rose water, scrape off some loaf sugar and bake on a tin or buttered
paper.
FRUIT WASHINGTON CAKE. One Ib. of butter, i Ib. of sugar, i
Ib. of flour, 8 or loeggs, 3 Ibs. of currants, 4 Ibs. of raisins, i Ib. of
citron, i teacup molasses, i gill brandy, i oz. cinnamon, i oz. mare
or nutmeg, i oz. cloves and i dessert spoonful soda put in to dry.
Bake from 3 to 4 hours.
SPONGE CAKE. Ten eggs, i pint of sugar, i pint of flour, beat
the eggs and the sugar together until very light. Beat the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth. Stir all gently together. Bake in a deep
tin pan or cake mould in a moderately hot oven.
EXCELLENT SPONGE CAKE. Separate the whites from the yolks of
12 eggs, beat them separately for 1-2 to 3-4 of an hour, by which
time the whites will become a strong froth. Have ready 11-4 Ibs.
of fine loaf sugar and 3-4 of a Ib. of fine flour both sifted ; mix all
together, but do not beat the cake any more. Well butter the tins,
half-fill and bake in a quick oven i hour.
TRI-COLOR CAKE. One coffee cup white sugar, i tablespoonful
butter, the whites of 4 eggs, 2-3 of a cup of sweet milk, i cup flour,
and i 1-2 teaspoonfuls yeast powder. Make another cake the same
with the yolks, and another with red candy instead of sugar. Bake
in bars. Put in first the pink cake, then the white and then the
yellow.
VARIEGATED MARBLE CAKE. Make the cake as directed above ;
take the juice of spinach, mix it with some of the white portion of
the cake, a little cochineal and a little tameric with the juice of the
spinach and mix all with some of the light portion of the cake. Pour
it in both light and dark layers in little veins across and every way.
The spinach juice will form a delicate green, and mixed with the
tameric another shade of green, and the cochineal a beautiful car-
mine color, and a yellow may also be added by treating the well
beaten yolk of an egg in the same way. The slices will.be beautiful.
ROYAL FRUIT CAKE. Take i quart of flour, 6 eggs, and i pint
SWEET CAKES.
of moist sugar ; i pint of molasses, i Ib. of butter, i teaspoonful
of saleratus, 1-2 pint sweet milk, 2 Ibs. of Santona or seedless
raisins, 3 Ibs. Zante currants, i 1-2 Ibs. citron, 2 tablespoonfuls of
ground cloves, i grated nutmeg, and i teaspoonful ground ginger ;
beat the eggs, sugar and butter to a cream ; add the molasses, sift
in the flour and with it the saleratus ; add the milk, beat to a batter ;
cut the citron in thin strips, then add your fruit and spices to the
mixture, stir well, and have your pans ready, lined well with buttered
paper. Put in the mixture and bake in a slow oven.
FRUIT CAKE (Mrs. Kendall's). i 1-2 cups of butter, i cup of
sugar, i cup of molasses, i cup sweet milk, 3 cups flour, i 1-2
teaspoonfuls cream tartar, i teaspoon soda mixed with the flour,
i nutmeg, 4 eggs, 2 Ibs. raisins, i gill of wine, citron and cur-
rants. Mix thoroughly and bake.
MRS. ADAMS' WEDDING CAKE. Onelb. brown sugar, i of butter,
1 of flour, 12 eggs, i cup of molasses, 6 Ibs. Valentia raisins,
3 Ibs. currants, 2 Ibs. citron, i oz. cinnamon, i oz. mace, i oz
cloves, 2 gills of brandy, the juice and grated rind of 2 lemons,
2 nutmegs and sufficient flour to dust the fruit.
MRS. CHILSEY'S WEDDING CAKE (Four loaves). 2 1-2 Ibs. of
flour, i 3-4 Ibs. loaf sugar, i 1-2 Ibs. butter, 4 eggs, 4 nutmegs,
i cup domestic yeast, i Ib. seeded and clipped raisins, 1-2 Ib.
citron, and new, rich milk to make it stiff. All the flour, half the
sugar and butter mixed over night with the yeast to raise it ; mix to-
gether until white ; the remainder of the sugar and butter, let it
stand ready-mixed to add next morning, when the fruit is thoroughly
light. Bake slowly in a hot oven until done. Try with a knife.
FROSTING FOR THE CAKE. To the white of i egg add 9 heap-
ing spoonfuls of double refined flour and i teaspoonful of Kings-
ford's best corn starch pounded and sifted with the sugar, through a
very fine sieve ; eggs beaten to a froth, so that the flake can be
turned over without the eggs slipping from it ; stir in gradually with
a wooden spoon ; afterwards stir for 15 minutes, then add a table-
spoonful lemon juice. The whites of i 1-2 eggs is allowed to a
loaf.
WEDDING CAKE 4 Ibs. each of well-dried, fine and sifted flour
and fresh butter, 2 Ibs. sugar, 4 oz. each of mace beaten fine and
sifted, and nutmegs ; allow 3 eggs to every Ib. of flour. Wash,
pick and well-dry 4 Ibs. of currants before the fire, blanch and
cut lengthwise very thin i Ib. of sweet almonds, i Ib. each of
citron, candied lemon and orange, and i gill of brandy. Make
these ready ; work your butter to a nice cream with your hands,
then beat in your sugar for 15 minutes, whisk the white of eggs to a
solid frolh^ and mix them with your sugar and butter, beat the yolks
SWEET CAKES. 277
until perfectly smooth, and mix them with the sugar and butter.
Then add your flour, mace and nutmeg, beating until your oven is
ready ; pour in the brandy, and lightly beat in your currants and al-
monds. Tie three sheets of paper around the bottom of your hoop
to keep it from running out; rub it well with butter and pour in your
batter with the sweetmeats in layers, then of batter, then of sweet-
meats, and thus continue until you have used it all, and after it has
risen cover it over with white paper before your oven is closed.
Bake slowly for 3 hours.
. JELLY CAKE. Three eggs, i cup of sugar, 2-3 of a cup of milk,
2 cups flour, a piece of butter the size of a butternut, 2 even
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and i even teaspoonful of soda.
This makes an excellent jelly cake, and does not break when taken
from the pans.
CUSTARD CAKE. One cup sugar, 1-2 cup sweet milk, i egg, 3
cups flour, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar and i teaspoonful of soda
(or 3 of baking powder). Bake in thin layers, like jelly cake; then
prepare a custard, boiling i pint, i beaten egg, i spoonful flour, i
teaspoonful corn starch, and 1-2 cup of sugar together. When cold
flavor with lemon or any extract to taste. Spread the mixture be-
tween the layers of the cake.
JELLY ROLLS. i cup of powdered sugar, 1-2 cup of butter, 3
eggs well beaten, 1-2 teaspoonful soda, t of cream of tartar, 1-2 cup
sweet milk ; dissolve the soda and tartar in 1-2 Cup sweet milk; i
cup flour. Bake in long tins ; spread each cake with jelly and roil
hot. Use powdered sugar only for jelly rolls. This recipe will do
for jelly cake. Bake in round tins and spread jelly between.
JELLY CAKE (Mrs. Robinson). Qne cup each of flour and su-
gar, 3 eggs beaten separately, 3 tablespoonfuls cold water, i tea-
spoonful yeast powder ; add the beaten whites last. Grease a clean
paper and put into a pan 14 inches by 12, or 2 smaller pans, pour in
the batter and bake 20 minutes; then, "while warm, spread on the
jelly, roll up and sift sugar over it. Or, when you bake your bis-
cuits for breakfast, the stove will be hot enough to bake it. The
sponge should be one inch thick ; or the sponge may be baked in
gem pans as sponge cake.
WHITE CAKE. Two coffee cups of white sugar, i coffee cup of
butter, ar.d i cup sweet milk; whisk 7 eggs, 2 coffee cupfuls flour, i
coffee cupful corn starch, i teaspoonful soda, 2 of cream of tartar
(or 3 spoonfuls of soda); flavor with lemon or almond; beat the
whites to a stiff froth, and add the butter and sugar to the cream
before adding the milk and eggs. Put the corn starch in last.
COCOANUT CAKE. Beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, i
cup sweet milk (which may be cream if richness be desired), i-a
2^8 SWEET CAKES.
cup butter, 2 cups white sugar, 21-2 heaping cups of flour, i tea-
spoonful soda and 2 of cream of tartar, or 3 spoonfuls baking pow-
der. This, if baked in common jelly cake tins, will make 6 layers.
Flour between the layers. For icing this cake, take the whites of 4
eggs, beat to a stiff froth ; for every egg use 7 even tablespoonfuls of
pulverized or crushed sugar, stirring just enough to mix ; spread it
on the layers and sprinkle prepared or grated cocoanut over it. Ice
the tops and sides.
ALMOND CAKE. Take 10 oz. bitter almonds and 6 oz. sweet al-
monds, scald in boiling water for 3 minutes, cool, peel and wash
them, drain and wipe them dry in a cloth. Put them in a mortar
and pound them to a paste with an egg added in small quantities to
prevent the almonds from turning oily ; when well pounded, add 6
oz. pounded sugar, 6 oz. butler, i small pinch of salt, i tablespoon-
ful orange flower water. Pound all well together, adding 3 eggs
broken, one after the other ; when well mixed, put the pounded al-
monds in a basin. Put i Ib. of sifted flour on the paste-board, make
a puff paste, as for puff-paste cake and give the paste five turns;
cut it into two pieces, make a ball of each piece, roll each flat with
arollingpin to the thickness of 1-2 an inch, and put one on a baking
sheet. Spread the almond paste on it, leaving a margin of one inch
and a half all round ; wet the edge of the paste and lay the other
over it and press with the thumb ail around, to stick the two together ;
trim off the superfluous paste ; egg the top and cut the pattern with
a knife as for short paste cake. Bake for 50 minutes, let the cake
cool, then sprinkle some sifted sugar on it, and serve.
LEMON CAKE. Ten eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange flower wa-
ter, 3-4 pound of pounded loaf sugar, i lemon, 3-4 Ib. of flour ;
separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, beat the whites to a stiff
froth, add the orange flower water, the sugar, grated lemon rind, and
mix these ingredients well together. Then beat the yolks of the
eggs and add them with the lemon juice to the whites, &c. ; dredge
in the flour gradually, keep beating the mixture well, put it into a
buttered mould and bake the cake about an hour, or rather longer.
The addition of a little after beaten to a cream would improve the
cake, which is never out of season.
PLUM CAKE. Take i gallon flour, 1-2 pint of rose water, i pint
of cream, i pint of ale yeast; boil it, then 6 yolks of eggs, i 1-2
pound of butter, i pound of sugar, 4 pounds of currants, i nutmeg
and a little salt ; work it very well and let it stand an hour by the
fire, then work it again, and make it up and let it stand an hour and
a half in the oven. Take care that the oven be not too hot.
APPLE CAKE. Ten or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of i
small lemon, 3 eggs, 1-4 pint of cream, 1-4 Ib. of butter, 3-4 Ib.
SWEET CAKES. 279
of good short pie crust, 3 ounces of sweet almonds, pare and core
and cut the apples into small pieces, put sufficient moisture to
sweeten them into a basin, add the lemon peel, which should be
finely minced, and the cream ; stir these ingredients well, whisk
the eggs and melt the butter, mix together, add the sliced apples,
and let them be stirred into the mixture. Scald, peel and wash
the almonds, cut them into long shreds and throw over the top of
the apples and bake them from 1-2 103-4 hour, taking care that the
almonds do not get burnt; when done strew some sifted sugar over
the top and serve.
HONEY CAKE. One-half cupful of sugar, 2 cupfuls of flour, i
cupful of sour cream (rich), 1-2 teaspoonful carbonate of soda and
honey to taste; mix the cream and honey together, dredge in the
flour, with as much honey as will flavor the mixture nicely, stir it
in well that all the ingredients be thoroughly mixed, add the soda
and beat the cake well for another 5 minutes, put it into a buttered
tin, bake it from 1-2 to 3-4 hour and let it be eaten warm.
PLUM POUND CAKE. Take of dried and sifted flour, sifted loaf
sugar, fresh butter, cleaned and dried currants, i Ib. each, 12 eggs;
then whisk the yolks and whites of the eggs separately, while another
with the hand beats the butter to a cream, and as the froth rises
upon the eggs add it to the butter, and continue so doing until it is
all beaten in ; mix the flour and sugar together and add them by
degrees ; the last thing mix in the currants, together with a wine-
glassful of rose water and a powdered nutmeg. It will require to be
beaten during a whole hour ; bake it in a buttered tin.
A PLAIN POUND CAKE. Work i Ib. of fresh butter to a cold
cream and put it to 8 eggs well beaten together ; beat all together
till well mixed and light, and put to them a little sliced lemon peel,
a few blanched almonds chopped, sugar and 1-4 Ib. dried and sifted
flour, bake in a pan for an hour in a quick oven or stove ; 2 small
cakes may be made of the same ingredients. The addition of 1-2
Ib. of currants, a few raisins and 1-2 Ib. of candied lemon and or-
ange peel with nutmeg and cinnamon to taste will make this a
good plum cake of moderate richness, or it may be converted
into a fine seed cake by adding caraway and coriander seeds to
the plum cake.
CUP CAKE. Five eggs, 2 large teacupfuls molasses, 2 each of
brown sugar and butter, i cup rich milk, 5 cups sifted flour, 1-2 tea-
cupful cloves and allspice, 1-2 teacupful of ground ginger, and i
teaspoonful soda ; cut up the butter in the milk and warm them
slightly ; warm also the molasses and stir it into the milk and butter,
then in the sugar, and set it away to cool ; beat the eggs very light
and then beat them into the mixture, adding the flour, spices,
28O ICING AND FROSTING.
&c., and stir the whole very hard ; butter small tins and nearly
fill them with the mixture and bake in a moderate oven.
QUEEN CAKE. One-half Ib. of flour, 1-2 Ib. of pounded loaf
sugar, 3 eggs, i teacupful of cream, 1-2 Ib. of currants, i tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon or almond to taste.
Work the butter to a cream, dredge in the flour, add sugar and cur-
rants, mix the ingredients well together ; beat the eggs, mix them
with the cream and flavoring and ftir them to the flour, add the car-
bonate of soda, beat the paste well for 10 minutes, put it into small
buttered pans and bake the cake from 1510 30 minutes. Grated
lemon rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond flavoring,
which will make the cakes equally nice.
SMALL SPONGE CAKES. The weight of 8 eggs in pounded sugar,
of 5 eggs in flour, flavoring to taste ; let the sugar be well pounded
and sifted and the flour perfectly dry ; separate the whites from the
yolks of the eggs, beat the butter with the sugar, then beat the
whites until they become rather stiff, and mix them with the yolks,
but do not stir them more than is just necessary to mingle the in-
gredients well together. Dredge the flour in by degrees, add the fla-
voring, butter the tins well, pour in the butter, sift a little sugar over
the cakes and bake them in rather a quick oven, but do not allow
them to become too brown, as they should be rather pale. Remove
them from the tins before they get cold, then store them away in a
closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glass bottle ; bake from 10 to 15
.minutes in a quick oven.
ICING AND FROSTING.
BOILED ICING FOR CAKES. Take the best refined loaf sugar
break it into small lumps, and pour over it some cold water, taking
care to use no more than will be sufficient to dissolve it. Mash the
lumps with a wooden spoon, and put over the fire to boil without
skimming, until the syrup is of the consistence of honey. In the
meantime beat to a stiff froth the whites of 3 eggs, allowing this num-
ber of eggs to every pound of sugar. Strain the boiled syrup in
water, immediately upon removing it from the fire, and in a few min-
utes stir in gradually the beaten whites of eggs and some lemon juice
or essence ; beat it until very smooth and light, and put in a few drops
of indigo, squeezed through a muslin bag to make it a pearly white.
If the icing is too thin, set the bowl in an oven of boiling water over
a few bright coals or stove, and stir it while it boils, not letting it
stick to the sides of the bowl ; or you may omit a portion of the
whites of eggs. If too thick from standing, add some beaten white
of the eggs, a small portion at a time, until of the proper consistency.
Put on the icing while it is warm.
ICING AND FROSTING. 28 1
FROSTED RICE. Boil a cupful office in milk till tender, salt and
flavor to taste. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs to this, in a deep dish ;
then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with a little sugar
and lemon, and spread over the rice, and brown in the oven. Serve
cold.
DESIGNS FOR FROSTED EGO AND WHITE SUGAR. Make a coronet
or funnel of white paper, with a pipe or tube at the end of it, either
of glass, tin, a quill or a piece of reed, pasted in the small end, then
fill the funnel with a mixture of white of egg and sugar, beaten well
to a paste, then tie up the top of the funnel, or close it with your
hand, then mark or not your design of leaves, flowers, etc., and
squeeze the egg over them, and by this way you can make any mark,
either with frosted egg, jelly, or anything. You can go over it several
times, to make the design richer. By coloring the white frosting with
a little of the juice of spinach, you can have green leaves; with a lit-
tle saffron or carmine, you can have flowers and roses, both yellow
and red, of any color or tint.
ICED A"PPLE. This may be served as an entrement, with boiled
barley, or as a dessert dish. Peel and core without dividing, a dozen
apples, steam very gently in a lined sauce-pan, or pipkin, with 1-2
pound of sugar, and 1-2 a pint of water ; when tender, lift very care-
fully on the dish, have ready 2 dozen apples, pared, cored and cut in
thin slices ; then put them into the same syrup from which the other
apples have been taken, and add the rind of half a lemon, chipped
very fine, and the juice of a whole lemon ; boil gently, till reduced to
a stiff marmalade, stirring to prevent from burning. . Cover the bot-
tom of a pretty dessert dish with some of the marmalade, and place
over that a layer of stewed apples, in the inside or which, and be-
tween each, place a layer of marmalade; then place another layer cf
apples, and fill up the cavities as before, forming the whole into a
raised oval shape ; then whisk to a froth the whites of 3 eggs and 4
tablespoonfuls of pulverized white sugar, and cover the apples with
the icing. Blanch and cut into narrow strips, two or three dozen
sweet almonds and stick' them up in the icing; strew over a little
granulated sugar and serve cold. It may be served as a most ex-
cellent supper dish.
ROYAL ICING FOR CAKES. (Mrs. S.) Pound well in a mortar, the
best white sugar, and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a bowl with
the whites of 3 or 4 eggs, whisked to a solid froth, to which the juice
of 1-2 a lemon has been added, keep whisking, till the mixture be-
comes so areated (light) that it hangs in flakes from a spoon. It is
then ready for use. NOTE. If the mixture is too stiff to spread, add
a litte more white of egg, if too soft, add more sugar.
To ICE A VERY LARGE CAKE. Take and beat the whites of 20
CUSTARDS.
eggs, then gradually beat i pound of double refined sugar, sifted
through a lawn sieve; mix them well in a deep wooden pan, add some
flower water, and a piece of fiesh lemon peel ; of the former enough
to flavor and no more. Whisk it for 3 hours, till the mixture is thick
and white, then, with a thin, broad bit of board, spread it all over the
top and sides, and set it in a cool oven, and an hour will harden it.
HOT ICING. Add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water, just enough to
dissolve i pound of powdered sugar, then boil. Beat the whites of
4 or 5 eggs to a solid froth, add the hot sugar, stirring quickly, till
smooth ; beat 2 minutes, flavor to taste, spread over the cakes and
set in a warm place.
ICING FOR CAKE. Beat and sift 8 oz of fine white sugar, put it in-
to a mortar with 4 spoonfuls of rose water, with the whites of 2 eggs
beaten and strained; whisk it well, and when the cake is almost cold,
dip a feather in the icing and cover the cake well ; set it in the oven
to harden, but don't let it stay to discolor. Put the cake in a dry
place. This is for a very large cake.
CUSTARDS.
SNOW BALL, OR BOILED CUSTARD, (K. D.) Allow 8 eggs for a
rich custard and 4 for a plainer, one to every quart of milk ; beat the
whites and yolks separately, the whites to a solid froth, then dip
them by spoonfuls to the boiling milk, boil a moment, then with a
slice lay the cooked froth over a sieve to drain, then strain the milk,
sweeten well with powdered sugar and flavor to taste ; then beat the
yolks of the eggs till smooth and as soon as cool enough stir
constantly to the milk, that it may not curdle, when boiling hot, but
not to boil, or it will become lumpy; remove from the fire and stir
till a little cool, then turn it into a bowl or deep dish, then put in the
lumps of the cooled whites, and put into each lump a piece of jelly.
LEMON CUSTARD. Five eggs, yolks beaten with one large cup of
sugar, and juice and rind of two lemons; set your tin pail, in which
is the above mixture, into a kettle of hot water on the stove, and stir
until it bubbles; then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and
stir into the mace, and dip into the custard cup ; this will make six-
teen custards.
ORANGE CUSTARDS. Boil till tender 1-2 the rind of an orange,
beat it fine in a mortar, put to it a spoonful of brandy, the juice of
an orange, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar and the yolks of 4 eggs; beat all well
together for 10 minutes, pour in a pint of cream that is boiling, put
it in by degrees; keep beating till cold, then put them in cups and
place them in an earthen dish of hot water till set ; stick preserved
orange on the top, and serve either hot or cold.
CUSTARDS. 283
OUR MOTHER'S CUSTARD. Boil a bit of cinnamon and lemon
peel, 2 bay leaves, or a sprig of myrtle, with sage, in i quart of new
milk; make a smooth paste with a spoonful of rice flour or corn
starch, with a little cold milk and the beaten yolks of 6 eggs; stir the
whole together into the boiling milk in a basin, and then let it thicken
over the fire, but not to boil ; pour it into a cold dish, and stir it one
way till cool ; a very little brandy, ratafia or peach water may be put
in to flavor this custard ; grate a little nutmeg or strew a little ground
cinnamon lightly over the top of the cups.
WINE CUSTARD. Beat 8 eggs very light, leaving out the whites
of 3; take 1-2 Ib. of sugar, i pint of wine, and beat with the eggs
for a few minutes; pour the wine back into a hot kettle and stir until
it boils, then pour the mixture out and beat until cold.; flavor with
lemon and grate nutmeg over; serve in glasses; the wine must be a
light color and the kettle not very hot. This quantity will do for six
persons.
CUSTARD BOILED. Two tablespoonfuls of corn starch to a
quart of milk; mix with a small quantity of the milk and
flavor it; beat up 2 eggs; heat the remainder of the milk to near
boiling, then add the mixed starch, the eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of
powdered white sugar, a little butter and salt ; boil 2 minutes, stir-
ring briskly.
BOILED CUP CUSTARD. One quart of milk ; when boiling add
the yolks of 6 eggs, whites of 4, with 6 spoons of sugar ; scald to-
gether, then beat the whites of 2 eggs until very light, pour boiling
water over them to cook them and then serve the custard.
STEAMED CUSTAKD. (Miss Ha'e). Six eggs well beaten, i cup
of white powdered sugar, i large spoonful of butter, to which add,
very slowly, 3 quarts of fresh milk and 2 teaspoonfuls essence lemon ;
steam till thick.
PLAIN CUSTARD. (Mrs. Bullock, Richmond, Va.) Boil a stick of
cinnamon in a quart of new milk, and let it stand until cold; take 5
eggs, usin-g the whites of only two, beat them well and mix with the
milk, sweeten and strain it and add a glass of wine; set your cups in
an oven of water; boil the water to cook the custards or bake them.
FROZKN CUST\RD. One quart of cream, 2 quarts of milk, i 1-2
Ibs. of sugar, yolks of 4 eggs, with milk, eggs and sugar, put on the
fire and let them scald ; just cook enough to take away the raw taste ;
when cold add cream ; flavor when partly frozen; if lemon is used,
i large one, rind and juice, is sufficient.
ORN T AMKNTAL FROTH. Whisk the whites of 4 or 5 eggs to a solid
froth, then thin in 1-2 Ib. of preserved blackberries or raspberries,
beat all together, then pour it over the top of blanc mange.
CUSTARD POWDER. One Ib. of good corn starch, 2 ozs. powdered
284 CUSTARDS.
tragacanth, i dram essence lemon, 1-2 dram essential oil of almonds,
mix and put them in i oz. packets ; take i pint of milk, rub up the
contents of a packet with a little of it, boil the remainder with 2 ozs.
of lump sugar, pour while boiling on the custard, stir it well and
bake.
BREAD AND BUTTER CUSTARD. Cut as many very thin slices of
white bread as will cover the bottom and line the sides of a bak-
ing dish, but first rub it thick with butter; put apples, in thin slices,
into the dish in layers till full, strewing sugar between and bits of
butter ; in the meantime soak as many thin slices of bread as will
cover the whole in warm milk, over which lay a plate and a weight
to keep the bread close on the apples; bake slowly 3 hours; to a
middling-sized dish use 1-2 Ib. of butter in the whole.
COFFEE CUSTARDS. For 6 cups, measure out 4 cups of boiled
milk, put it in a basin with i cup of strong coffee, add 5 yolks of
eggs and 112 spoonfuls of sugar powdered ; mix well and strain
through a pointed strainer ; fill the cups with the mixture, strain off
carefully ail froth from the surface, put them in a flat stew pan with
boiling water to the height of the cups; put the stew pan, with live
coals on its cover, and on a very slow fire for 15 minutes ; the water
should only bubble for a few minutes; set the custards to cool in
water, wipe the cups clean and serve.
CARAMKL CUSTARDS. Prepare as for coffee custards, using i cup
of caramel instead of coffee; put in a small coffee kettle or sage
boiler i cupful of pounded sugar, stir over the fire till it becomes of
a dark-looking color, then add i cup of water, boil i minute till the
sugar is dissolved, add this to the custard instead of the coffee, finish
in cups, as for coffee custard.
ALMOND CUSTARDS. Blanch and beat 1-2 Ib. of sweet almonds
or 1-2 oz. of bitter almonds, using a little rose water to prevent
their oiling, sweeten 2 1-4 cups of milk and the same quantity of
cream and mix them with the yolks of 6 eggs, stirring them well as
they cool; rub the almonds through a sieve to this and set it over
the fire to thicken, carefully stirring it, pour it into a pitcher and stir
until it cools ; instead of boiling this may be baked in cups, or in a
dish with an elegantly cut paste border : flour of rice may be used
instead of almonds ; they are then called rice custards.
CORN STARCH CUSTARDS. Three tablespoonfuls of corn starch
to 2 pints of milk ; stir the corn with a small quantity of the milk
and flavor it to taste ; beat up 3 eggs, heat the remainder of the
milk near boiling, then add the mixed starch, the eggs, 5 table-
spoonfuls of sugar, or a little butter and salt ; boil it 2 minutes, stir-
ring it briskly.
JELLIES AND PRESERVES. 285
JELLIES AND PRESERVES.
COCOANUT JELLY. Put a pound of picked red currants into a
china dish, pour over 4 ounces of clarified sugar, cover it and let it
stand for a night in a cool place, the next day pour the currants over
a stretched napkin or in a filtering bag and let it drain the juice off
clear. In the meantime prepare a wine jelly in which only 2 lemons
are to be used ; after the jelly has been clarified, strained and allowed
to get cold mix it with the currant jelly.
STRAWBERRY JELLY. Allow 1 2 ounces of sugar for every pound
of fruit, wash the berries in your kettle till soft, or boil them, mix in
the sugar thoroughly, boil 1-2 hour, then put into glasses. The jufce
before preserving should be strained.
ORANGK JELLY. Boil 2 ounces of isinglass in i pint of water, 3-4
pound of loaf sugar in another pint of water, squeeze 8 oranges,
add the juice and rind of i lemon and grate the peel of some of
the oranges, mix all the ingredients together and let it boil for 20
minutes or less ; strain through a flannel bag and put into glasses
or a mould. Or two quarts of calve's feet or cow heel stock made
stiff, add the juice of 12 large California oranges and the peel of
6, the juice of 2 lemons and the peel of i ; pare the oranges and
lemons very thin, boil together for 1-2 hour and sweeten to taste.
Strain through a piece of muslin into glasses.
LEMON JELLY. Dissolve i ounce of isinglass in a pint of water,
then add i pound of lump sugar, the juice and rind of 2 lemons, let
it boil 10 minutes after the ingredients are in ; strain into glasses or
a mould.
FRUIT JELLY WITH CHAMPAGNE. Put 2 ounces of gelatine in a
stew pan with 3-4 pound of lump sugar, beat 3 whites of eggs,
moisten them with i quart of water and the juice of a lemon, pour
the whole into the stew pan containing the gelatine and put it on the
fire, stirring with a wire whisk until it boils ; take the jelly off the fire,
let it cool for a few minutes and strain it through a jelly bag, pour it
back and strain again until it is perfectly clear ; when quite cold add
i pint of champagne to the jelly; cut some pears and apples to an
olive shape and boiled in a syrup with dried cherries, preserved apri-
cots and green gages, put a plain cylinder mould in the ice, pour in
1-8 inch thickness of jelly, pour in sufficient jelly to cover it, and con-
tinue the layers of fruit and jelly until the mould is nearly full then let
it set a little and finish with jelly only ; cover the mould with a baking
sheet with ice on the top, let it remain on the ice 2 hours, turn the
jelly out of the mould and serve. This jelly may be garnished with
fresh strawberries, grapes, apricots, peaches, currants, &c.
286 JELLIES AND PRESERVES.
WINE JELLY (made with gelatine.) Put 3-4 ounce of gelatine into
a pint of water the night before making the jelly with a bit of lemon
peel and 3-4 pound of sugar; squeeze into a pint measure the juice
of 4 lemons with i 1-2 glass of brandy, some orange flavoring or
spirit of punch and fill up with raisin wine, whites and yolks of 2
eggs beaten, boil gently till the scum separates and press through a
jelly bag, put into glasses or a mould, let it remain on the ice for 2
hours, turn the jelly out of the mould and serve. This jelly may be
garnished with strawberries, apricots, grapes, peaches, cherries, cur-
rants, &c.
CKANBKKKY JELLY. In an enamelled kettle put the berries, set
over the fire with just enough water to cover them, after they begin
to boil break them with a spoon ; iia a few moments take them from
the fire and strain through a coarse sieve ; allow a cup of sugar to
each cup of the berry juice (strained) ; boil together till it jellys ; it
will not take as long as other fruit.
POMEGRANATE JELLY. Extract the bright pips from 16 ripe pome-
granates, bruise these in a basin with i pound of roughly pounded
sugar, add these to a gill of spring water, and then filter the prepar-
ation through a jelly bag without the aid of paper pulp, in order to
preserve the delicate flavor of the fruit. The strained juice of the
pomegranates must be mixed with 2 ounces of clarified isinglass, 6
drops of cochineal, and, if necessary, to mold out the quantity of
jelly required to fill the mould some thin clarified syrup may be
added ; set a jelly mould in a basin of rough ice and fill the mould
with alternate layers of jelly and the bright pips of this fruit.
NOTE A glass of nozean maybe added if required.
BARBERRY JELLY WITH APPLES. Clarify 2 ounces of gelatine with
3 whites of eggs, i 1-2 pint of water, and the juice of a lemon,
boil i quart of syrup in a copper boiler or preserving kettle and
throw into it 1-4 pound of picked berries, put the whole into a
basin, cover it, and let it stand for 2 hours, then strain the bar-
berries through a cloth and mix the syrup with the gelatine. Should
the jelly be of too pale a color, add a few drops of prepared cochi-
neal. Cut 5 large, plump, ripe apples in 8 pieces, cook them in
some syrup, and drain them on a sieve ; put a cylander mold in ice,
pour in some jelly to the depth of 1-4 inch ; when it is set arrange
on it a layer of the pieces of apples, cover them with jelly, let it set,
continue in the same way till the mould is nearly full with layers of
fruit and jelly, then let it settle a little and finish with jelly only, cover
the mould with a baking sheet with ice on the top.
APPLE JELLY. Pare and core some ripe, plump, well-shaped ap-
ples, such as pippins or other nice apples, and throw them into cold
water as you do them ; put them into a preserving pan, and with as
JELLIES AND PRESERVES. 287
little water as will cover them ; let them coddle, and when the lower
sides are done turn them. Observe that they do not lie too close when
put in. If you wish the jelly to be red mix some pounded cochi-
neal with the water and boil with the fruit ; when sufficiently done,
take them out of the dish that they are to be served in, the stalk
downwards. Take the water and make a rich jelly of it with loaf
sugar, boiling the thin rind and juice of a lemon. When come to
a jelly let it grow cold and put it on and among the apples ; cut the
peel of a lemon in narrow strips and across the eye of the apple.
Take care that the color be fine at first, or the fruit will not after-
wards gain it. Use as little cochineal as will serve best, or the syrup
will have a bitter taste.
JELLY OF GOOSEHKKRIKS. Let them be of the right crystal sort,
dead ripe; plump through a hair sieve, keeping back all the seeds
and hulls; then put the pulp into a preserving pan or skillet with al-
most its weight in the best white sugar; boil it together over a clear
fire, keeping it stirred till it is quite thick and will jelly, then put it
into glasses without further straining.
JELLIED GRAPES (Mrs. Lewis.) One-third cup of rice, 2 cups
uf grapes, 1-2 cup of water, and 2 spoonfuls of wh'te sugar dust;
sprinkle the rice and sugar among the grapes while placing them in
a dish ; pour on the water, cover close and simmer 2 hours slowly in
the oven. Serve cream for sauce or as cold pudding. If served
as warm as pudding increase slightly the proportion of sugar and
rice.
CURRANT JELLY EITHER RED OR BLACK. Take i Ib. of double
refined sugar put into a skillet or an enameled stew pan with just
enough water to moisten it, boil it up and clarify with the white of
an egg, skim it clean, then put in the juice of i quart of currants and
boil it till you think it will jelly, then strain through a muslin bag into
glasses ; pour a little brandy on the top of each and tie over them
a double paper. Some put a little brandy on the top of them and
sprinkle sugar over that and tie down ; some dip a piece of tissue
paper in brandy, and over that a piece of light brown paper dip-
ped in gum arabic water, then tie down.
WINK JELLY. Dissolve 2 medium sized boxes of Cox's galatine
in i quart of boiling water; add another pint and a half of cold wa-
ter, 2 pounds of white crushed sugar, i pint of sherry wine and tne
juice and grated rind of 3 lemons.
NOTE How valuable this recipe for the sick patient when it can
be prepared in so short a time, instead of the long waiting, as in
other modes, which to the poor sufferer seems lengthened for an
eternity.
STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED IN HONEY. Drop large, not quite ripe
288 JELLIES AND PRESERVES.
strawberries into clear, purified honey in a preserving kettle just
coming to a boil, remove the froth as it rises and let them simmer
until the syrup begins to thicken, then put some in a cold saucer and
let them remain awhile; if the syrup is clear, the fruit transparent
and tenacious it is done. Take it up and pour the syrup in a deep
dish ; when cold put the fruit carefully in a jar and pour the syrup
over it. Cut a paper to fit the top of the jar, dip it in brandy and
lay it smoothly over the preserves, then tie a paper over the mouth
and set it away in a cool, dry place. The honey forms a syrup more
readily than sugar, and hardens the fruit quickly. On a warm, dry
day the preserves can be set in the sun.
To PRESERVE PEARS. Pare very thin and simmer in a thin syrup,
and let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer and simmer
again, and repeat this until they are clear, then drain and dry them
in the sun or cool oven a very little time. They must be kept in
syrup and dried as wanted, which makes them more moist and
rich.
CRAB APPLE PRESERVES. To i pound of crab apples take a
pound of white sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little syrup from
common apples ; dissolve the sugar in it, let it boil and skim clear ;
then prick the crabs with a coarse needle, or a fine wooden splinter
is better, and put them into the syrup. Let them boil gently till a
straw will pierce them, put them into pots and cover them well with
syrup.
A NEW AND EXCELLENT WAY TO PRESERVE PEACHES. (Mrs, B.)
Pare, halve and weigh the peaches, then put them into a preserving
kettle full of boiling water, and to every 6 pounds of fruit put a tea-
spoonful of soda ; let them boil i minute, take them off and throw
them into cold water and remove any dark scum that may adhere to
them; make the syrup of 1-2 pound sugar and a gill of water to
every pound of fruit. Boil and clarify it, and when well skimmed
put in the fruit, and when 1-2 done take the peaches from the syrup
and lay on dishes so that each piece shall be separate, and let them
get entirely cold, then return to the boiling syrup and cook until
done. Boil the syrup until rich and clear. This preserve will keep
12 months.
N. B. It is best to warm the jars and put the preserves in hot ; if
the jars are of glass they will break unless heated before filling
them.
SPICED PEACHES. To 9 pounds of peaches add 4 1-2 pounds of
sugar, i pint of vinegar, and cloves, cinnamon and mace tied in
separate cloths ; pare and halve the peaches and put them in a jar,
boil the vinegar, spice and sugar together for a few moments and
pour over the peaches boiling hot, let them stand over night, and in
JELLIES AND PRESERVES. 289
the morning put all in a kettle and boil 10 minutes. Take out the
peaches, leaving the spice, and boil the vinegar till it begins to
thicken, then pour over the peaches.
PINE APPLE PRESERVES WITHOUT COOKING. Remove thoroughly
with a very sharp knife the rough rind of the pine apple and cut in
thin slices, then for every pound of the fruit ailow i of sugar, fine
and white ; put at the bottom of small glass jars, sugar i inch deep,
then put in a layer of pine apple sliced nearly i inch deep, then a
layer of sugar of the same depth, press down with a spoon as tightly
as possible not to mash the fruit, then another layer of sugar, then
of apple, and so on till the jar is full ; close tightly with sealing wax.
It will taste like the fresh fruit.
A WEST INDIA MODE OF PRESERVING PINE APPLE. Gather the
pines with small tops, or if foreign fruit select in the same way, then
with a short knife remove the little prickly leaves between every
flake, but be careful not to cut too near the top ; put them into salt
and water a little warm, to make them turn yellow, which will be in
about 24 hours, then place them on a slow fire in water and lemon
juice, composed of three parts of the former and one of the latter ;
do not keep them too long on the fire, for fear of losing the top ;
when they are done put them in cold water, then take them out and
let them be thoroughly dried ; put a good rich syrup to them, which
must be changed for fresh syrup three or four days afterwards, or
sooner.
To PRESERVE QUINCES. Pare and cut them in pieces one inch
thick, take out the cores carefully, so as to have the slices in the
form of a ring, allow i pound of nice white sugar to each pound of
fruit ; dissolve in cold water, having i quart of water to i pound of
sugar, then put it to the sliced quinces and let them soak in it 10 or
12 hours. Put them in a preserving kettle and put it on a moder-
ate fire, cover them over and let the quinces boil gently. There
should be more than enough syrup to cover the quinces; when a
straw will enter them easily take them from the fire and turn them
over and boil down the syrup so that there will be just enough to cover
the fruit. The fruit and syrup will be clear when done. The par-
ings and cores of the quinces with a few whole ones will make a nice '
marmalade.
BRANDY PEACHES. Peel fine large peaches that are nearly ripe,
weigh them and allow 1-4 pound of the best white sugar to every
pound of fruit- Put the sugar in a preserving kettle and cover it
with water; boil it 15 minutes, and after it gets hot through care-
fully remove the scum, then drop i dozen peaches in at a time until
you get all cooked enough to put a straw in ; take them out care-
fully with a skimmer and put them to cool in flat dishes ; when per-
290
X
fectly cold put them in a jar, let the syrup cook thick, and when
that is cold mix 1-2 syrup and 1-2 French brandy or apple brandy,
cover the peaches well with it ; keep them well covered.
BRANDY GRAPES. For this purpose the grapes should be in large
bunches and quite ripe. Remove every grape that is the least shriv-
eled or in any way defective. With a needle prick each grape in
three places. Have, ready a sufficiency of the best loaf sugar pow-
dered and sifted, put some sugar into the bottom of the jars, then
put in a bunch of grapes, and cover all thickly with sugar, then an-
other bunch, then more sugar, and so on till the jar is nearly full ;
finishing with a layer of sugar, then fill up to the top with the best
white brandy ; cover the jars as closely as possible and set them
away. They must not go over the fire. The grapes should be of
the best quality.
APPLE SWEET MEATS. To 12 pounds of sweet apples add 4
pounds of sugar, i pint of vinegar. Put the vinegar and sugar
together to dissolve, then put in the apples with lemon, ginger root
and cloves.
ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY. (Substitutes for calPs feet.)
Three ounces of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water ; put the
isinglass or gelatine into a sauce pan with the above proportion
of cold water, bring it quickly to a boil, and let it boil very fast
until the liquor is reduced 1-2, carefully remove the scum as it
rises, then strain it through -a jelly bag, and it will be ready for
use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through
a fine sieve instead of being run through a bag. Rather more
than 1-2 ounce of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use
for a quart of strong calf's feet stock, and rather more than 2
ounces for the same quantity of fruit juice. As isinglass varies
so much in quality and strength it is difficult to give the exact
proportions ; the larger the mould the stiffer should be the jelly, and
where there is no ice more isinglass must be used than if the mix-
ture w'ere frozen. This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, which
may be flavored in many ways. Sufficient, with wine, sfyrup, fruit,
&c., to fill 2 moderate sized moulds. Seasonable at any time.
N. B. The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may
be mixed with warm wine flavorings, fruits, &c , and then run through
the bag.
SWEETMEAT OF CURRANT JELLY. Pick the stalks from your fruit,
wash and set them on a sieve to drain, then have 4pounds of red
currants, 8 pounds each of white currants and raspberries and 3
pints of water ; put all into your preserving kettle and set it on the
stove or fire, continually stiring it to prevent its burning and sticking
to the bottom, and let boil about 10 minutes, then place a sieve over
JBLLIES AND PRESERVES.
a basin of suitable size to catch the juice from the draining cur-
rants, which have been put into the sieve; let them remain till all
the moisture has passed out, then pass the juice while hot through
a tammy or muslin bag, then for every pint of juice allow i Ib.
of loaf sugar and boil it slowly until it thickens, stirring with a
clean skimmer to prevent its boiling over, and keeping it skimmed
to remove all the impurities that may rise to the top, now and
then lifting the skimmer out of the syrup, and when the boiling
juice drops from it in thin sheets it is done. Take it off the fire
and fill your small jars or pots.
N. B. Currant jelly is made precisely as the above, only the
raspberries are left out and 3-4 pound of sugar is allowed to each
pint of juice. Currant jelly is used for the garnishing of pastry
and the sweetmeat of currant jelly for sauces to serve with game
of any kind or other fresh meats.
RASPBERRY JAM; To every pound of raspberries allow i pound
of sugar, 1-4 pint of red-currant juice. Gather the fruit of this pre-
serve in fine weather, and use after picking as soon as possible.
Take off the stalks, put the raspberries into a preserve-pan, then
mash them with a wooden spoon or pestle, and let them boil 15 min-
ute, skimming them well, then add the currant juice and sugar, and
boil 1-2 hour. Skim the jam well after the sugar is added, or the
preserves will be turbid. The addition of the currant juice is a very
great improvement to this preserve, as it gives a piquant taste, which
the flavor of the raspberries seem to require. It is best to put this
jam in pint cups, jars, or cans.
QUINCK MARMALADE. Pare and quarter quinces and take their
weight in sugar, to every 4 pounds of sugar, add one quart of water;
boil and skim, and have ready, against 4 pounds of quince' are toler-
ably tender, by the following mode : lay (hem in a stone jar, with a
teacup of water at the bottom ; and pack them with a little sugar
strewed between ; cover the jar closely, and set in a stove or cool
oven, and let them soften till the color becomes red, then pour the
first syrup and a quart of juice into the preserving pan, and boil all
together, till the marmalade be completed, breaking the lumps with
the preserving ladle. By following the above recipe, the fruit which
is so hard, will make a good marmalade in a short time. Stewing
them in a jar and then squeezing the quince pulp through a thin cloth
is the best method of obtaining the juice, to add as above, but first
dip the cloth* in boiling water, wring, and then shake it out and pour
in the juice.
APPLE MARMALADE. Take apples that are ripe, large and round,
or 12 pippins, or russets, peel, core and cut in quarters, put them in
a stew pan, with 2 or 3 spoonfuls of water, and 2 cups of sugar, put
292 JELLIES AND PRESERVES.
them over a slow fire till melted, then reduce, by stirring over a fierce
fire, cool and dish up the apples into a compote dish, sprinkle some
fine sugar over the top and glaze it with the red hot salamander.
ORANGE MARMALADE. (K.. A.) Carefully remove the rind from
bitter or sweet oranges, without any of the white, boil till soft, chang-
ing the water twice ; then soak them in cold water for a few minutes,
drain and pound them to a fine paste ; to each pound of peel
allow 1-2 a pound of white granulated sugar, make a strong syrup of
it, put into the paste and boil the two together, stirring constantly, till
the marmalade is done. When done, it will draw out like a thread
between the thumb and finger. The rind of shaddock or pomeloe
can be used in the same way.
LEMON CHEESE CAKE. 1-4 pound of butter, i pound of loaf sugar,
the rind of 2 lemons, and the juice of 3 ; put all the ingredients into
a stew pan, carefully grating the lemon rind and straining the juice ;
keep stirring the mixture over the fire, till the sugar is dissolved, and
it begins to thicken. When of the consistency of honey, it is done ;
then put it into small jars and keep in a dry place. This mixture
will remain good for 3 or 4 months. When made into cheesecakes,
add a few pounded almonds, or candied peel, or grated sweet bis-
cuit, line some patty pans with good stiff paste, rather more than
half fill them with the mixture; bake for 1-4 hour in a good brisk
oven. Sufficient for 24 cheese cakes. Seasonable at any time.
LEMON BUTTER. i pound of white sugar, 1-4 pound of fresh but-
ter, 6 eggs, juice and grated rind of 3 lemons, taking out all the seeds.
Boil all together a few minutes, till thick as honey, stirring constant-
ly ; put in small jars or tumblers, covered with paper, dipped in
white of egg. One teaspoonful is enough for about a cheese cake.
This will keep for a long time in a cool, dry place.
APRICOTS PRESERVED WHOLE. Take the largest and cleanest ap-
ricots to be had, pick out the stones by slitting them down the sides
with a silver knife or skewer; take nearly their weight in good lump
sugar, dip each lump in water, and put over the fire, which just boil,
skim, and put by till cold, then pour it over the fruit in the preserv-
ing pan, warm very quickly, and only allow them to simmer, put them
by till next day, and warm them again, continuing this till they look
clear ; then take the fruit from the syrup. The latter must now be
well boiled and skimmed, and when cold, poured over the fruit.
GREEn GAGES PRESERVED WHOLE. Prick them all over with a pin
or splinter, then put them in scalding water; let them simmer, skim
and take their weight in sugar ; put the sugar into the preserving pan,
with 1-2 its bulk in water, let it boil well and skim very' clean ; put in
the plums, let them boil up once, take them off and set them by till
next day ; then take them out one by one from the syrup, boil it and
JELLIES AND PRESERVES. 293
skim very clear; put in the plums and let them boil very gently for
20 minutes, take them off as before, let them stand till cold, then put
them into jars, laying them very close.
PRESERVE DAMSONS. To every pound of damsons allow 3-4 of a
pound of powdered sugar, put into jars, or well glazed earthen pots,
alternately a layer of damsons and one of sugar ; tie a strong paper
or cloth over the pots, and set them in the oven, after tbe bread is
drawn, and let them stand till the oven is cold. The next day strain
off the syrup and boil it till thick ; when cold, put the damsons into
small jars or glasses, pour over the syrup, which should cover them,
and cover with a cloth.
RHUBARB PRESERVES. To every 12 pounds of fruit, peeled and
cut as for tarts, put the same weight in lump sugar, and 1-4 pound of
bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, the juice of a lemon and the
peel chopped fine ; after putting the sugar to the rhubarb, let it stand
through the night, then boil it ; when it begins to thicken add pound-
ed (fine) coniander, and the other ingredients, together with i 1-2
wineglass of good French brandy ; a teaspoonful of ginger is thought
to be an improvement to the flavor.
CHERRY PRESERVE. Take 5 pounds of large, fully ripe, and plump
cherries, so that after picking and stoning them, there may be 4 Ibs.
left ; put 2 Ibs. of lump sugar into the preserving pan with i pint of
water, and boil it for 3 minutes, then add the cherries, stirring them
lig-htly with the skimmer, so as not to break them ; boil for 8 minutes,
then pour the whole into a large basin, and let the cherries soak for
24 hours, then strain them, boil the syrup, adding i pound of lump
sugar, throw in the cherries and boil for 8 minutes more ; when cold,
put into pots, and cover in the same way as currant jelly, with around
paper, dipped in brandy, and laid on the top of the preserve, and
then with a round paper tied round the top of the pots with a string.
GRAPES PRESERVED IN BUNCHES. Take full clusters of grapes, not
fully ripe, trim the stems neatly, make a syrup of a pound of sugar,
and a teacup of water, for each pound of grapes ; make it boiling hot
and pour it over them, let them remain fora day or two, then drain
off the syrup, boil it again, skim it and pour it over; after a day or
two, put the grapes and syrup over the fire, boil very gently, until
they are clear, and the syrup rich ; take them up carefully, lay them
on plates to become cold, boil the syrup for nearly an hour, skim it,
let it cool and settle, put the grapes in glass jars, and pour the syrup
over. Serve cold.
294 MINCED MEATS.
MINCED MEATS.
MINCED MEAT WITH UNCOOKED MEAT. Take 3 1-2 pounds each
of finely chopped beef suet, the lean sirloin of beet minced raw, and
finely chopped apples that are large and plump, 7 pounds of well
picked, washed and dried currants, 1-2 pound each of citron, lemon
peel and orange peel, cut small ; 2 Ib. fine moist sugar, i oz. mixed
spices, the rind and juice of 4 lemons and 4 California oranges. Mix
well and put in a deep pan, mix a bottle of brandy and i of white
wine, the juice of the lemons and oranges that have been grated to-
gether in a basin, pour 1-2 over and press down tight with the hand,
then add the other half and cover closely. It can be made i year to
be used the next.
MINCED MEAT WITH RAISINS. Of the lean of a round of fresh
beef that has been boiled thoroughly and tender recently, but cold,
3 pounds chopped as finely as possible with a chopping knife, clear
off skin and filaments, 2 pounds of fresh beef suet minced very
fine and add to it, and i pound of brown sugar. Mix thoroughly.
Pick, wash and dry well before the fire 2 pounds of currants and
2 pounds of the best of raisins seeded and chopped fine. Some
raisins have no seeds, and therefore are the best for cooking pur-
poses. Three pounds of finely chopped apples, the peel and juice
of 2 large lemons or oranges, the peel grated in a saucer and the
juice strained through a sieve over it. Mix this with the raisins and
currants ; i pint of sweet wine, i tablespoonful of finely powdered
cinnamon and white ginger, the spoons heaped; a heaped tea-
spoonful each of powdered nutmeg, cloves, mace and pimento,
and also 1-2 pound of citron, not minced, but cut into large slips.
Press the whole into a deep stone jar when thoroughly mixed, and
keep it covered in a cool, dry place. One-half the quantity is enough
unless for a very large family. Have citron, orange and lemon peel
ready, and put some in each of the pies when made.
LEMON MINCED MEAT. Pound 4 lemons in a mortar after boiling
them till soft, or chopping them while warm will do. Then mix with
them 2 pounds of white sugar, let it remain over night, then the next
morning add 2 pounds of suet minced very fine, i pound of rai-
sins chopped and seeded, 2 pounds of clean, washed and dried
currants, a gill each of brandy and port wine, i spoonful of mixed
spices.
RICH MINCE MEATS. Take 12 pounds of fat rump beef, the
fatter the better, 4 pounds of fat pork, boil them together in just
enough water to cover them until very tender;" when sufficiently
done the meat will fall away from the bone ; chop them together
while warm ; when finely minced add 4 pounds currants washed,
MINCED MEATS.
295
dried and picked, 6 pounds good layer raisins, washed, picked and
dried, 2 pounds Sultana or seeded raisins cut into thin slices. Mix
these ingredients before the meat has cooled thoroughly, then add 8
pounds of granulated white sugar, 1-2 pound each ground allspice
and pepper, 1-4 ounce cloves, 2 ounces cinnamon; 2 ounces ginger,
2 ounces mace all pounded. Again mix the whole mass until
thoroughly amalgamated. Then bring the liquor that your meat
was boiled in again to a boil, strain it through a colander over
your mixture, stir it all well, then add i gallon of the best Jamaica
rum, t-2 gallon of Madeira or good white wine, get your mass well
mixed, then press very tightly into a stone jar, pour a little rum
over the top, and set away tightly covered from the air to make
delicious pies for a whole year, at any time desired.
How TO MAKE MINCED MEATS. Six pounds lean beef and
2 Ibs. suet chopped fine, 6 Ibs. of raisins with seeds removed, 2 Ibs.
citron cut in small pieces, 2 Ibs. dried currants well picked, washed
and dried, 6 Ibs. brown sugar, i peck of firm apples finely chop-
ped, 4 nutmegs finely chopped or grated, 2 lemons, seeds removed
and peel grated, i tablespoonful of allspice ground, 2 tablespoonfuls
of powdered cinnamon, 2 teaspoonful of salt and 2 gallons boiled
apple cider. This quantity will keep for 2 months in a very cool and
dry place.
PLAIN MINCED MEAT made with ingredients of home manufacture
and very nice. Three pounds of beef or chicken chopped fine, 2
quarts of ripe canned or dried currants, 2 quarts of ripe canned or
dried cherries, 2 quarts of apples after they are finely chopped, two
quarts of citron or watermelon rind cut fine, i gallon rich, boiled
apple cider or California wine strong and sweet, two quarts of
syrup or molasses, 2 grated or finely beaten nutmegs, 2 spoonfuls
allspice, two of cloves finely pounded. After the ingredients are
thoroughly mixed add a little salt and as much brown or white sugar
as is required to make the mixture sweet enough, which will depend
entirely on the amount of sugar previously added to the canned fruit.
If fresh apples cannot be had, take 3 pints of dried apples chopped
fine after soaking them the previous night.
296 PASTRY FOR PIES.
PASTRY FOR PIES OF ANY KIND.
PLAIN PASTRY (Mrs. E. A. Upshur.) One and a quarter Ibs. of
lard, 1-4 Ib. butter. Divide the flour into two parts, 3-4 in one part
and 1-4 in the other; cut up the butter in the 3-4 of the flour and
make it very stiff with a little water, then roll in the lard in two roll-
ings and use the other flour to sift over the lard after it is put on the
paste in small pieces all over it. The pastry should be worked with
a knife and never with the hand. That makes it soft and prevents
it from flaking.
To PRESERVE PIE PASTE FOR A TIME. Take the pie dough or
paste trimmings that may be left, mould it into a ball, wrap it in clean
paper or put into a flour basket. Keep in a cool place.
A LESS EXPENSIVE DOUGH FOR PIES. Half Ib. of butter, 3-4 Ib.
flour, 2 spoonfuls sour cream, 2 eggs, a pinch of salt. For all kinds
of fruits.
HOMEMADE PASTRY. One-quarter Ib. lard or butter, or butter and
lard of equal proportions. Take a small portion of the above, mak-
ing out the roll very thin, handling very little, dividing the lard into
three portions.
BEEF SUET TO SOFTEN FOR MAKING PIE PASTE. Have it well-
soaked, perfectly clean, dry, fresh, hard and chopped fine, then
moisten it with a little butter, lard or oil, while working or beating
it in a mortar, till it becomes one sheet, when it is ready to work in
your flour in the desired proportion to make a pie paste.
SANDWICH PASTRY. Roll out pieces of paste very thin, of equal
size, spread apricot or raspberry jam over one of them, cover with
the other ; bake it ; cut it in squares or rounds and glaze it with
French glazing.
RICE PASTE FOR SWEETS. Boil 1-2 Ib. ground rice in the smallest
quantity of water, strain from it all the moisture as well as you can,
beat it in a mortar with 1-2 oz. of butter, i egg well beaten and it
will make an excellent paste for tarts, etc.
PUFFEIT (R.). One quart sifted flour, in which rub 2 teaspoon-
fuls cream tartar, butter the size of an egg, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered
sugar, 2 beaten eggs, mix very smoothly and add i pint of milk and
i teaspoonful soda dissolved in a little boiling water. Bake at once.
Serve last with butter.
PUFF LOAVES. To i pint of milk add 4 moderate spoonfuls
flour, 4 eggs, leaving out the whites of 2 eggs, 1-2 Ib. butter
melted, a little sugar and salt. This quantity makes 6 puddings.
Bake them in a quick oven.
FRENCH PUFF PASTB OR FJCUILLETAGE (Founded on M. Ude's
PASTRY FOR PIES. 297
Recipe). Equal quantities of flour and butter, say i Ib. of each, i
pinch of salt the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than i gill of wa-
ter. See that the flour is perfectly dry ; squeeze all the water
from the butter, then squeeze it in a clean cloth till there is no
moisture ; then weigh them ; put the flour on the paste-board,
then work lightly into it 2 oz. of the butter and make a hole in
the center, and into this well or opening put the yolks of 2 eggs,
the salt and about 1-4 pint water (the quantity of water must be
regulated by the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact pro-
portion of it). Knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and when
quite smooth roll it square to the thickness of about 1-2 inch.
Presuming that the batter is perfectly free from moisture and as
cool as possible, roll it into a ball and place the ball of butter
on the paste, fold the paste over the butter all round, and se-
cure it by wrapping it well all over. Flatten the paste by rolling
it lightly with the rollingpin until it is quite thin, but not thin
enough to allow the butter to break thrpugh, and keep the board
and paste dredged lightly with flour during the process of mak-
ing it. This rolling gives it the first turn. Now fold the paste
in three and roll it out again, and should the weather be very
warm place it in a cold place on the ground to cool between
the several turns, or in some cool place where cold water can be run
under the paste-board, and thus prevent the paste from spoiling in
warm weather, which it will surely do unless carefully attended to.
Roll out the paste again twice, put it by to cool, then roll it out twice
more, which will make 6 turnings in all. Now fold the paste in two
and it will be ready for use. If properly made and well baked this
crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5 or 6
inches. The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance,
as the ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention
must also be paid to keeping the butter cool, as, if this is in a soft or
liquid state, the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook be
dextrous enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a
much better appearance than that made by the process of dividing
the butter into four parts and placing it over the rolled-out paste ;
but, until experience has been acquired, it is recommended puff paste
made by recipe for being very good. The above paste is used for
vol au vent, small articles, and, in fact, everything that requires
very light crust.
POTATO PUFF. Take cold roast meat, beef, mutton and ham to-
gether, clear from gristle, cut small and season with pepper and salt
and cut pickles if liked. Roll and mash some potatoes; make
them into a paste with an egg and roll out and dredge with flour.
Cut round with a saucer, put some of the seasoned meat upon one*
298 PASTRY FOR PIES.
half and fold the other over like a puff. Pinch neatly around and fry
a nice brown. An excellent way to save fragments of cold meat.
EXCF.LLENT SHORT CRUSTS. To every pound of well-dried flour
allow 2 oz. of pounded and sifted white sugar ; rub into it 3 oz. of
fresh butter so fine as not to be seen ; into some cream put the yolks
of 2 eggs beaten and mixed into a smooth paste. Roll it thin and
bake in a moderate oven.
A SUPERIOR SHORT CRUST. To every pound of flour allow 1-2
Ib. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. sifted sugar, i gill of milk ;
rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar and mix the whole as well
as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs well beaten in
the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient must be judged of
by the size of the eggs ; if these are large, so much will not be re-
quired, and more if the eggs are smaller.
DRIPPING CRUST FOR PUDDINGS, PIES, TARTS, ETC. To every
pound of flour allow 6 oz. of clarified beef dripping, 1-2 pint of wa-
ter. After having clarified the dripping (which should be done by
putting the dripping into a. clean saucepan and letting it boil for a
few moments over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well, let
it stand to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into
jars for use), weigh it, and to every pound of flour allow the above pro-
portion of time for dripping. With a knife work the flour into a smooth
paste with the water, rolling it three times each time, placing on the
crust 2 oz. of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste
is properly made, and if good dripping is used, and not too much
of it. it will be found good ; and by the addition of 2 tablespoonfuls
of fine sugar k may be converted into a common short crust for
fruit pies.
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 299
PIES MEAT AND SAVORY.
All pies made either with summer fruit or with winter pre-
serves will be improved by a mixture of apples, pared and
sliced. Apples will, in this way, eke out the remains of a pot
of jam to advantage. They are especially good with cher-
ries, currants, etc., and will be found an agreeable addition to
cranberries. Equal portions also of cranberries and any. sweet
jam will improve both. When apples are mixed with jam they
should be sliced thin, and if syrup be wanted a few slices boiled
with a little of the jam in sugar and water. In making pies of
green gooseberries, apples, or rhubarb the sugar should be white,
and boiled in very little water to make a syrup, pour no water
into the pie, as that destroys the nice flavor of the fruit. For fresh
fruits short crust is very suitable. Fresh fruit pies, of all descrip-
tions, whether cherry, green gooseberry, damson, currant or rasp-
berry may all be made in the same manner, taking care that the
fruit is freshly gathered and cleanly picked, observing also that if the
gooseberries be very sour, they should be put in boiling water for
1-4 of an hour. One-quarter Ib. of sugar is usually allowed to every
pound of fruit in making pies. When pies have been kept till they
are cold the crust becomes heavy and indigestable. When next
used they should be warmed before the fire or stove to lighten the
crust.
FRUIT PIE. One cup of sugar, i of water, i tablespoonful flour,
i teaspoonful lemon essence (or lemon grated), i of- cream tartar,
1-2 teaspoonful soda, 1-2 cup dried currants; mix and boil, stirring
to prevent the flour from settling.
GRAPE ME. 1'ulp your grapes ; put the skins in one vessel and
the pulp into another. Simmer the pulp and strain it through a
colander ; then add the juice to the skins and season them to taste
with sugar. Put between crusts and bake.
DAMSON PIE. They should be cooked with water, sugar and
spices before they are put on the crust or between them. In putting
them in the first crust put butter in bits on the fruit, which improves
all fruit pies. Small grapes should be prepared in the same way for
pies.
CURRANT PIE WITH OR WITHOUT RASPBERRIES. These red, ripe
fruits require but little baking. When the currant has acquired a
pale brown, they are sure to be done. Sugar baked with the fruit
mingles better and gives a finer flavor, but is more apt to turn acid
in the stomach than if added afterward. On this account it is better
to sweeten pies and puddings for children after they are baked or
boiled.
3OO MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
RAISIN PIE. Pour i quart of water over a pound of raisins, then
dry the raisins by squeezing them in a cloth, then grate the rind of a
lemon into a cup of sugar, a dessert- spoonful of flour and i beaten
egg, then stir into the raisins 3 cups of boiling water, then turn the
raisins into the mixture and stir it again. This will make 3 pies.
Bake between two crusts as other pies.
ELDERBERRY PIE. Take 2-3 elderberries, 1-3 of apples peeled
and sliced, 4 spoonfuls sugar, i spoonful each of butter and flour.
Season with powdered coriander seed to taste. Bake between crusts.
SUMMER MINCED PIES. Three soda crackers, i cup each of mo-
lasses, vinegar, butter, chopped and seeded raisins, boiling water
poured on crackers, 2 cups sugar, 3 eggs and flour to taste.
SLICED SWEET OR IRISH POTATO PIE. Line a deep plate or dish
with a common pie crust tolerably thin, then put in a full layer of
butter sprinkled over thinly with finely pounded coriander seeds and
other spices, then put in slices of potatoes sprinkled a little with
spices, then another layer of butter, till more than full ; pour over a
small teacupfulof water or cider, or less of either and a little brandy,
then put on a rich, thick pie crust well pasted, so as to come off in
flakes, on the top ; the edges should l>e removed by pressing them
against the pie or dish, then pierce the top a number of times with
a fork. Glaze with a feather dipped in new milk, and bake in a
moderate oven till of a light brown.
COCOANUT PIE. One-quarter Ib sweet butter, 1-2 Ib. powdered
white sugar ; beat the butter and the sugar well together until it forms
a thick cream, then add 4 well whisked eggs, whites and yolks beaten
together; 1-2 pint grated cocoanut; i quart sweet milk, beaten well
together; have ready some nice puff paste, line your patty pans and
fill them nearly full of the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven.
CROQUETTE OF FRESH WALNUTS. Take about 60 English walnuts
when they are just ripe enough to leave thi shell by carefully cutting
it in two; then take off the white skin that covers the fruit, keep
clean in a cloth, then drop them in cold water, drain them on a nap-
kin, boil the desired quantity of sugar moistened with some cold
water, and boil it until it becomes a little brittle when dropped in
cold water, then, with the kernels of the walnuts dipped from wooden
tongs (for the purpose) into the candy, then place the walnut kernels
so dipped into a mould slightly oiled, when the whole has been used
and the kernels are cool and hard, fill the mould with whipped cream
seasoned with a little brandy and sugar, and place some strawberries
on the top and serve.
Note. Almonds, oranges and other fruits may be treated in the
same manner as the walnuts, and also green almonds.
COCOANUT PIES. One cup rasped cocoanut soaked in milk, 3 pow-?
MT5AT AND SAVORY PIES. 3OT
dered crackers or 2 tablespoonfuls corn starch, 3 eggs, a little butter
and salt, add sugar if wanted ; grated rind of lemon improves. Bake
without upper crust.
CREAM PIE. A rich crust, 4 eggs, i cup each of sugar and flour,
2 tablespoonfuls baking powder, i pint of cream or milk, 2 eggs, i
cup of sugar, 2 heaped teaspoonfuls corn starch. Crust is to be
baked in round tins. This makes 3 layers. When cold spread
cream between as you do in jelly cake. The cream should be cooked
by itself. Mrs. L. M. Kellogg.
LEMON CREAM PIES (Mrs. Lane, Panama). To 3 spoonfuls
moistened corn starch, pour i quart warm water and add 3 cups fine
white sugar, the juice and peel of 3 lemons, 3 beaten eggs, a little
salt. Bake between 2 rich pie crusts.
RICE PIE (Mrs. Ewing). 'Two pints of milk boiled, i small tea-
cup of rice flour mixed in very little cold water ; add to the boiling
milk 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. When cold add 5 well-beaten eggs,
sweeten to taste, flavor with vanilla and bake in a moderate oven.
CUSTARD PIE. Beat 7 eggs, sweeten a quart of milk that has
been boiled and cooled. A stick of cinnamon or a bit of lemon
peel should be boiled in it. Sprinkle in a saltspoon of salt, add
the eggs and a grated nutmeg, stirring the whole together. Line
two deep plates with good paste ; set them in the oven 3 min-
utes to harden the crust, then pour in the custard and bake 20
minutes.
SWEET POTATO PIE (Southern.) Wash, peel and boil your pota-
toes till soft, and strain them; to each Ib. allow 12 oz. sugar, 8
oz. butter, 2 cups of cream or new milk, 6 eggs well beaten,
some cinnamon and nutmeg. Beat all thoroughly till smooth, then
stir in a wineglass of brandy. Line your plate or dish with a
crust and bake in a moderate oven till half done, then when cold
pour on the potatoes and bake a light brown. Serve cold.
SWEET POTATO PIE (grated). Boil the potatoes, when perfectly
cold grate them, then rub in a large cup of sugar, 2 large spoon-
fuls of butter ; beat to a cream ; add two teaspoonfuls of ground
cinnamon, 1-2 grated nutmeg, i pinch of salt, the juice and the
yellow grated off of a lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs beaten. Add
gradually to the grated potato, then add the whites beaten solid ;
2 teaspoonfuls cream or rich milk ; pour into a pie dish lined with a
short crust and bake. Eaten cold.
GEORGIA. SWEET POTATO PIE. Boil 2 pounds of sweet potatoes
soft, skin and mash them smoothly, add i quart of new sweet milk,
5 eggs and a teacupful of butter; cinnamon and nutmeg to taste;
last, stir in one cup of good whiskey and 2 cups of sugar ; this makes
a soft batter. Have i rich under-crust made and fill with the batter.
Bake a rich brown.
3O2 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
A RICH VEAL PIE. Cut steaks from a neck or breast of veal,
season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg and a very little clove in pow-
der. Slice 2 sweet breads and season them in the same manner ; lay
a puff paste on the ledge of the dish, then put the meat, yolks of
hard eggs, the sweet bread and some oysters up to the top of the
dish. Lay over the whole some very thin slices of ham or middlings,
and fill up the dish with water ; cover, and when it is taken out of
the oven pour in at the top through a funnel a few spoonfuls of good
veal gravy and some cream to fill up, but first boil it up with a tea-
spoonful of flour, add truffles, &c., if approved, in pieces, according
to the size of the pie ; place them in first, then some artichoke bot-
toms, cut in 4 pieces each, next some tops of asparagus, parsley,
onions, mushrooms, yolks of hard eggs and fine meat balls. Steam
the whole with pepper and salt ; put in plenty of water, cover the
pie and bake it 2 hours. On taking it out pour in some rich veal
gravy thickened with cream and flour.
VEAL (or chicken) AND PARSLEY PIE. Cut some slices from the
leg or neck of veal ; if the leg, from the knuckle, season with salt,
scald some parsley that is picked from the steins and squeeze it dry,
cut it a little and lay it at the bottom of the dish, then put the meat,
and so on, in layers. Fill the dish with new milk, but not so high
as to touch the crust. Cover it, and when baked pour out a lit-
tle of the milk and put in 1-2 pint of good scalded cream. Chicken
may be cut up, skinned and made in the same way.
HERRING AND LEEK PIE. Clean and skin the white part of
some large leeks, scald in milk and water and put them in layers
into a dish, and between the layers 2 or 3 salted herring or sal-
mon in pieces; 1-2 pound which has been soaked for 24 hours
before ; cover the whole with a good plain crust. When the pie
is taken out of the oven lift up the side crust with a knife and
empty out all the liquor, then pour in 1-2 pint scalded cream.
VEAL PATTIES. Mince some veal that is not quite done with a
little barley, lemon peel, a scrape of nutmeg and a bit of salt;
add a little cream and gravy ; first moisten the meat, and if there is
any ham scrape a little and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties
are baked.
CRITTEN OR CRACKLING PIE. When a bacon hog is killed the in-
ward fat is melted for lard and strained off. What remains in the
strainer is called critten or crackling, to i pound of which add i Ib.
of currants and 1-2 pound of plums, the latte" stoned and chopped ;
x pound of apples chopped fine, i pound c ambs of bread, the yolks
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 303
of 2 or 3 eggs, candied lemon and orange peel, i ounce each, a lit-
tle ginger, nutmeg and allspice. Some add to this the lean meat of
the hog chopped fine or pounded. As it is but a homely dish a
plain crust will suffice made of lard or drippings, with the addition
of a little butter. However plain the ingredients a good cook will
make it light and well flavored. The crust should be raised and is
usually baked in a pudding dish ; if preferred may be made in small
tins or saucers.
SWEET BREAD PIE. Lay a puff paste 1-2 inch thick at the bottom
of a dish and forcemeat around the sides ; then put the batter in
a mould or on a dish, leaving a hole in the middle for sweet breads,
or fragments of fine chopped chicken. If wanted brown, bake
it in a mould ; when done take out the inside sufficiently to admit
the ragout
TOMATO MEAT PIE. Cover the bottom of a pudding dish with
stale bread crumbs, then have some cold mutton chopped fine ; make
a layer of this on the crumbs, then a layer of sliced ripe tomatoes,
then over this a layer of bread crumbs, another of meat and then a
layer of sliced tomatoes, then cover with bread crumbs and bake un-
til the crust is a beautiful brown. The different layers should be
seasoned as you make them with salt, pepper and bits of butter. It
should be seasoned rather light. Serve hot.
HAM PIE. Make a crust the same as for soda biscuit, line your
dish, then put in a layer of potatoes sliced thin, pepper and salt and
a little butter, then a layer of lean ham ; add considerable water and
you will have an excellent pie.
SEA PIE. Put 2 pounds of beefsteak into a stew pan with a little
celery chopped up or a pinch of ground celery seed, a small onion
cut in slices, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, season with pepper
salt; put in this 6 larks dressed for roasting them, make a paste of
suet abqutone inch thick and round like the stew pan ; put a cupful
of water in the stew pan and cover the larks with the paste, pressing
it against the sides of the stew pan ; simmer for i hour and serve by
putting a knife round the sides of the stew pan to detach the paste,
and turn it over on the dish.
MUTTON PIE. The remains of a cold leg of mutton, loin or neck,
pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, i dessert spoon-
ful of chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of minced savory herbs when
liked, a little minced onion or shalot, 3 or 4 potatoes, i teacupful of
gravy. Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well
seasoned and mixed with a few herbs. If the leg is used, cut it in
very thin slices ; if of the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place
some at the bottom of the dish ; season with pepper and salt, mace,
parsley and herbs ; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more
304 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
mutton, and so on, till the dish is full ; add the gravy, cover with a
crust and bake for i hour. Seasonable at any time.
LAMB PIE. Make it of the loin, neck or breast. The breast of
house lamb is one of the most delicate things that can be eaten.
It should be lightly seasoned with pepper and salt ; the bone taken
out, but not the gristles. A small quantity of jelly should be put in
hot, but the pie should not be eaten till cold. Put in two spoonfuls
of water before baking. Grass lamb makes an excellent pie, and
may be either boned or not, but not to bone it is perhaps the best.
Season only with pepper and salt. Put two spoonfuls of water and
as much gravy when it comes from the oven. N. B. Meat pies
being fat, it is best to let out the gravy on one side and put it in
again by a funnel, at the center, and a little more may be added.
MEAT PIES. It is important to have a hole in the top crust.
BONED BEEFSTEAK PIE. Cut the skins from the fat of rump steaks,
beat them, put them over the fire with a little butter, pepper, lemon
juice and shalots chopped fine ; when half-done, lay them in a dish
till cold. Blanch and strain some oysters and preserve the liquor ;
put a layer of steaks at the bottom of the pie, another of oysters
over that, and so on, alternately. When done, put in some gravy
with the oyster liquor and catsup.
PODOVIES OR BEEF PATTIES. Shred underdone dressed beef with
a little fat, season with pepper and salt and a little shalot or onion.
Make a plain paste, roll it thin, cut it into shape like an apple puff;
fill it with the mince, pinch the edges and fry them a nice brown.
The paste should be made with a little butter, eggs and milk.
TURKEY PATTIES. Mince some of the white part, and with grated
lemon, nutmeg and salt, a very little white pepper, cream and a very
little butter warmed. Fill the patties.
SOUTHERN POTPIE. Boil the backbone of a hog a little ; then chop
it up, leaving two joints in a piece ; then line a large pan or Dutch
oven with a rich pie paste and put the bone in with pepper and salt,
or, if the bone be salted, very little is needed. Chop some pieces
of fat, unsalted pork, the best, and put in. Skim the rich portion or
foam all off of the broth in which the meat has been boi'ed and
pour that over the meat until it is two-thirds full ; then put a short
paste cover over it. Make a hole with your finger for the soup to
come out when it boils. Bake moderately. When a nice brown
take it up and serve cold for dinner. It can be rewarmed if some
portion remains uneaten.
VEAL POTPIE (Rizpah). Slice thinly 2 Ibs. of veal and boil in
water till tender, season and add 6 potatoes sliced ; boil until done
and pour into a deep pan ; stir in 2 spoonful of flour and cover with
a biscuit crust. Bake a light brown. Be sure to have plenty gravy
in the pie.
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 305
CHICKEN PIE (Mrs. B.) Cut up your chickens and season them
with salt, pepper and parsley. If they are old, parboil them a few
minutes and save the water to put in the pie. Make a moderately
rich paste and cover the sides and bottom of a depth with it. Then
put in alternate layers of chicken, 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in slices,
butter, pepper, celery and a little flour from a dredging-box. Fill
the dish 2-3 full of cold water and add 1-2 cupful of cream or milk.
Put on a top paste and the pie round the edge, and make opening
in the middle with a knife. It will require i hour to bake. A few
slices of lean bacon is an addition liked by many persons. If oysters
are in season they are nice. Put in alternate layers with the chicken.
VIRGINIA CHICKEN PUDDING (Colonial). Cut up two young
chickens as for frying. Season well with salt, pepper, parsley, buter
and an onion shred fine. Make a batter of a quart of new milk, 6
eggs well beaten, 9 tablespoonfuls of flour; stir till perfectly smooth.
It too thick, thin with milk. When tender, take up the chicken from
the stewpan, leaving out the necks ; place the pieces in an earthen
dish ; pour over the batter and bake till the pudding is firm. It
should be eaten immediately, as standing injures it, by falling and
becoming tough. A tureen of rich sauce should accompany it,
using as much of the broth in which the chicken was stewed as may
be needed for the foundation of the gravy. Add catsup of any
kind. Instead of chicken or combined with chicken, oysteres, beef-
steak, veal or any kind of game may be used.
How TO MAKE A SOUTHKRN CHICKEN PIE. Cut up some tender,
fat, young chickens ; stew them slowly in water till done, with butter,
pepper, salt, and if liked, a bit of onion and some thin slices of
sweet pork or bacon cut up in fillets. To make the crust of the pie,
stir up flour and cold water together with a little salt. Stand in a
cool place and on a marble board, if you have one ; roll out the
dough " as thin as air/' then have some sweet butter and fresh mut-
ton suet that has been strained from the sediment, both perfectly
cold, put the finger in and fleck the dough all over with dots of
butter and suet, roll it over evenly, and then roll the dough out thin
again and fleck it with bits of butter and suet as before, up to fifteen
times, if you like it, but once or twice will do. Then make tlv
dough into oblong cakes about the size of a large saucer and '
the bottom of the dish and sides, which should be wide and <! ,>,
then put in your meet carefully, pour over plenty of the rich .ivy,
and some more pieces of butter on the top. The chicken -ravy
should be cold, then put on your top crust, make a hole in t'ae top
306 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
large enough to put yorfr finger in. When you are going to set the
table for dinner put your pie in a moderate oven, and hasten the fire
a little, and your pie will be ready. Serve hot in the same dish.
The crust will be almost as light as snow flakes. Note. Handle
the dough as little as possible. Let the wind blow on it in a cool
place. Some dredge a little flour over the flecks of butter and suet
each time before turning the dough over.
CHICKEN PIE. Cut up young chickens in proportion to the large-
ness of the pie ; season with pepper and salt and a little mace and
nutmeg, all in the finest powder (likewise a little cayenne, if approved).
Put the chicken with slices of ham or fresh gammon of bacon, force
meat balls and hard eggs by turns in layers. If it is to be baked in
a dish, put in a little water, but none if it be a raised crust. By the
time time it returns from the oven have ready a gravy of knuckle of
veal or a bit of the scrag, with some shank bones of mutton seasoned
with herbs, onions, mace and white pepper. ^If it is not to be eaten
hot, you may add truffles, mosels, mushrooms, etc., but not, if to be
eaten cold. If it is. made in a dish, put in as much jelly as will fill
it; but in raised crust the gravy must be nicely strained, and then
put in cold as jelly. To make the jelly clear, you may give it aboil
with the whites of two eggs, after taking away the meat, and then
run it through a fine lawn sieve.
CHICKEN PIE (Mrs. Hobson, San Jose, Cal.). Cut up the chicken
and parboil it ; then make a rich crust and line the sides of a bake-
pan with it, then put in a layer of chicken, put in pieces of butter,
some pepper, a little salt ; then make some dumplings and drop a
layer of them over the chicken, then add another layer of chicken,
etc., and continue till the pan is full, and let the last layer be of
chicken. Pour in till nearly full some of the liquor in which the
chicken was boiled, then put on a top crust, make a hole in it and
bake in a moderate oven, and as the liquor boils down pour in some
more of the liquor through the hole in the top by a funnel.
CHICKEN PIE WITH RICE (Mrs. B.) Cut up the desired number
of young chickens and drop them into a saltish water for 30 minutes.
Have ready 2 quarts boiled rice, not steamed, into which stir 11-4
Ibs. butter, i quart of milk, a little salt and 6 well-beaten eggs.
Pour into your baking dish 1-2 the quantity of this mixture and
a few slices of ham in it, then pour in the remainder of the rice and
eggs, and rub a little flour and milk smoothly together and put on
the top to make it brown nicely. This pie is sufficient for twenty
persons.
THE OLD VIRGINIA POTPIE (Colonial). This old-fashioned and
incomparable pie is best made in a deep Dutch oven, whether large
or small, to suit the number of guests or persons expected to par*
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 307
V
take of it. Line the sides of the oven with the rich pie paste, which
should be 1-2 inch thick ; then lay the chicken, backbone or spare-
ribs chopped in joints 2 inches long, or all may be used together,
chicken, etc., which should have been previously parboiled in saltish
water till 1-2 done. When this is done sprinkle over the meat some
pepper and bits of sweet butter, then a layer of very thinly sliced
Irish potatoes, some pork chopped very finely, an onion or two in
slices, and some add a few fresh oysters or mushrooms, then potato
dumplings made according to the recipe given for dumplings for
chicken pie; but these form modern additions to the time-honored
and matchless potpie of our revolutionary sires, and was doubtless
often eaten in the White House in the days of our first Presidents.
It is a homely dish, but a very appetizing one; but no housekeeper
should be at a loss how to make it. When the meat and layers of
the other ingredients have filled the oven rather more, than even full,
pour in the broth in which the meat has been boiled, to form the
gravy, about three parts full, sprinkle a little flour over it, then lay
over the meat an upper crust 1-4 inch thick; making a hole in it at
the top to pour in more broth when needed, through a funnel; then
put on the oven lid moderately heated, and then put on some burn-
ing coals and bake a nice brown. When done remove the upper
crust carefully. Take up the meat gravy in a bowl in order not to
break the crust at the sides; lay this crust on the bottom of a hot
dish, then the meat, etc., on this, very nicely, then pour the gravy
over, then cover the whole with the crust. Serve hot.
STEAK AND PLOVER PIE. Line basin with paste ; then put in a
slice of rump steak well seasoned with salt and pepper over a plover
with the bird inside and dressed as for roasting, another steak over
it, all seasoned with salt and pepper only. Add a gill of beef gravy,
then cover with paste and boil 11-2 hours. The flavor of the plover
will make the steak delicious.
GREEN GOOSE PIE. Bone two young green geese of good size,
but first take away every pin-feather and singe them nicely ; wash
them clean and season them high with salt, pepper, mace and al-
spice ; put one inside the other and press them as close as you can,
drawing the legs inward. Put a good deal of butter over them and
bake them either with or without crust ; if the latter, a cover to the
dish must fit close to keep in the steam. It will keep long.
PIGEON PIE. If it be eaten hot, have a rich, flakey crust; if in-
tended to be eaten cold, a thick crust is preferable, but should be
equally rich, or nearly so. Butter the dish and lay a crust round the
sides and on the edges; at the bottom of the dish a fine beefsteak
seasoned with pepper and salt ; then the birds rubbed with pepper
and salt inside and out, and a piece of butter in each. (Some prefer
308 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
to add the liver chopped up with parsley.) Lay the breasts downward,
to keep them juicy, a litttle ham is laid on each pigeon and a hard-
boiled egg between each two ; but neither of these is necessary, and
by some persons are considered no improvement. Putin half pint of
gravy or broth and have ready a little more to pour in boiling hot at
an aperture in the top of the pie, when it comes out of the oven.
Season the gizzards, and, if you cut them off, two joints of the pin-
ions, and lay them in the middle of the dish ; lay on the top crust
and make a hole in the center, wherein may be stuck some of the
feet nicely cleaned. Wash the crust with the yolk of an egg well
beaten. One hour and a half will bake a pigeon pie, unless very
large indeed.
GIBLET PIE. After very nicely cleansing goose or duck giblets
stew them with a small quantity of water, onion, black pepper and a
bunch of sweet herbs till nearly done; let them grow cold, and if not
enough to fill the dish, lay a beef, veal or two mutton steaks at the
bottom, or more. Put the liquor of the stew to bake with the above,
and when the pie is baked pour into it a large teacupful of cream.
Sliced potatoes added toil eat extremely well.
LOBSTER PIE. Boil 2 or 3 small lobsters, remove the tails, cut
them in two, take out the insides, divide each into 4 pieces, lay them
in a small dish, then put in the meat of the claws and that which has
been picked from the body, clear the latter of the finny parts and
take out the substance, beat the spawn in a mortar, do the same
by the shells, set them on to stew with some water, 2 or 4 spoonfuls
of vinegar, pepper, salt and pounded mace, and add a piece of but-
ter rolled in flour ; when the goodness of the shell is extracted give
the whole a good boiling and strain it into the dish ; strew some
crumbs over it and cover it with a paste. Bake it slowly and take
it out as soon as the crust is done.
OYSTER PIE. Take out the liquor in opening the oysters, strain,
beard and parboil the fish ; do the same with sweet breads, which
last must be cut in slices and disposed with oysters in layers, seasoned
lightly with salt or not, pepper and mace. Put 1-2 teacupful of
the liquor and as much gravy into the dish ; cover the oysters with
crust and bake the pie in a slow oven. On taking it out add a cup-
ful of cream, some nice oyster liquor and a cupful of white gravy,
warm, but not boiling.
MINCED PIE WITHOUT MEAT OR APPLES. One teacup seeded raisins,
i teaspoonful molasses, i teacup sugar, i teacup water, 1-2 teacup
cider vinegar, 1-2 teacup melted butter, 3 soda crackers rolled, 1-2
teaspoonful cloves, i teaspoonful cinnamon.
MINCED PIES. Boil 4 Ibs. lean beef and chop it fine. Pick and
chop 3 Ibs. suet, wash 2 Ibs. currants, i of raisins, grate the peel of
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
309
2 lemons and add the juice; i oz. sliced citron, 12 large apples
chopped fine. Mix these ingredients with 3 Ibs. sugar, 2 gills wine
and 2 gills brandy, a little sweet cider and nutmeg, mace, spice and
cloves. Bake in a puff paste between 2 crusts.
MINCED PIES (Mrs. Lane, Panama). Seven cracker soaked in 2
cups of boiling water, i cup of vinegar, the grated rind and juice of
2 lemons, 2 cups sugar, i cup molasses or honey, t cup melted but-
ter, with salt and spice to taste.
MINCED PIES \\TIHOUT MEAT. Of the best apples, 6 Ibs. pared,
cored and minced ; of fresh suet and raisins stoned, each 3 Ibs. ; like-
wise minced ; to these add of mace and cinnamon 1-4 oz. each
and 8 cloves in finest powder ; 3 Ibs. of the finest white sugar ; i
spoonful salt, the rinds of 4 and juice of 2 lemons, 1-2 pint of port,
the same of brandy. Minced well and put in a deep pan. Have
ready washed and dried currants, 4 Ibs., and add as you make the
pies some candied fruit.
LEMON MINCED PIE. Squeeze a large lemon, boil the rind till ten-
der enough to beat to a mash, add to it 3 large apples and
4 oz. suet, 1-2 Ib. currants, 4 oz sugar; putinthe juice of the lemon
and candied fruit as for other pies. Make a short crust and fill the
patty pans as usual
MINCED PIES (Mrs. Washington, of Virginia). Two Ibs finely
chopped round of beef, i Ib. suet nicely sliced, i dozen apples pared
and chopped small, 2 Ibs. raisins or currants stoned and floured, 3-4
Ib. sugar with nutmeg, mace and cloves. Dried cherries will do.
Mix all together. Stir in sweet cider, French or peach brandy. Slice
citron or orange peel. Some use both cider and brandy i quarto
brandy.
MOCK MINCE PIES FOR SUMMER USE. It is made by mixing one
cup each of sugar and molasses and i 1-2 cup bread crumbs, i cup
good cider vinegar, 4 cups water, 3 eggs. Add i cup raisins, i oz.
e.xr.h of ground cloves and soda. Enough to make 3 pies.
APPLE PIE. Wipe the outside of the fruit, which pare and core,
and with the cores boil with a little water till it boils well, strain
and put in a little sugar and a bit of bruised cinnamon and simmer
again. In the meantime place the apples in a dish, a paste being
put around the edge ; when one layer is in sprinkle 1-2 the sugar and
shred lemon peel and squeeze some juice or a glass of cider if the
apples have lost their spirit ; put in the rest of the apples, sugar and
the liquor that you have boiled, cover with paste. You may add
some butter when cut if eaten hot, or put quince marmalade, orange
paste or cloves to flavor.
A TURN-OVER APPLE OR PEACH PIE. Put the fruit, that is, apples
< r peaches pared, cored and cut up, in a deep dish, then put a short
3 TO MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
crust over the top and bake it When done turn the crust over on
a deep plate or dish. Mash the fruit, sugar and season to taste and
paste the crust with it.
SLICED APPLE, PEACH, APRICOT, QUINCE AND PEAR PIES. Are
made by slicing very thinly the fruit and put them in a deep pie
plate or dish lined with thin pie paste, over which is pasted a layer
of butter in bits, then put in a layer of fruit sprinkled with coriander
seeds or any other spice or spices, then a layer of butter and a thin
sprinkle of the flavoring lemon peel, &c., and then a layer of fruit,
and so on till full, then a cup of water thick with sugar, so as to form
a syrup, which should be poured in. Some persons put the sugar
between each layer and put all the seasoning on the top ; then put a
transparent puff paste, pinch off, perforate and bake 50 minutes in
a moderate oven. It is best for the fruit to be mellow and juicy.
GREEN APPLES, GOOSEBERRIES, CURRANTS AND APRICOTS should
be boiled with sugar before making pies of them. The greener they
are the more sugar they require. The apricots should not be larger
than a full-sized gooseberry, otherwise the skins become bitter and
the stones hard. When cooking flavor to suit with coriander, any
spices approved, lemon or orange peel grated. When put in the
pie dish put butter in bits, and finely chopped citron, if conven-
ient, and some currants or raspberries or thin jellies, or marma-
lades will bean improvement. They will require but little baking,
as do all pies made of cooked fruits.
APPLE PIE. For 3 pies pare 1 2 good-sized apples and slice them
thin, then prepare. the crust and place it in the pans; lay the apples
in and sprinkle over them very neatly 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ;
to each pie i gill of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small hick-
ory nut and i gill of cold water. Spice to taste ; add the top crust and
bake. Use nutmeg, allspice or cinnamon, as your taste fancies, or
sprinkle over 1-2 teaspoonful of coriander seeds. Select good cook-
ing apples.
N. B. As soon as pies are baked they should have a little water
shaken over them and white sugar grated on immediately.
HOT APPLE PIE. Make with the fruit ; sugar and cloves, and put
a bit of butter in when cut open.
APPLE PIE, &c. This is boiled between crusts, which should be
rich, the under one thinner and the upper one thicker and richer.
Peel, core and slice your apples, place them on the under crust on
the pie plate, then a layer of sugar, butter and spice ; then another
layer of apples, and so repeat until the fruit is used ; a layer of su-
gar and butter and grated lemon peel ; a sprinkle of cinnamon the
last, then put on the upper crust, pick it with a fork and bake slowly.
APPLE PIE. Take a sufficient number of apples to make a pie
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
of the required size, pare, core and slice them ; put a teacup in the
middle of your dish, then allow i pinch of cinnamon, a small piece
of chopped lemon peel and cloves to every 3.apples and sweeten to
taste. Bake.
APPLE PIE. After paring, dividing and coring the desired quan-
tity of apples, fill a dish, placing a small teacup in the center, if you
wish, then to every 3 apples allow i clove, a pinch of cinnamon, a
little beaten lemon peel and sugar to suit and bake. A little whipped
cream should be placed on the top for variety sake.
WHOLE PEACH PIE. Take small, plump, not quite ripe peaches,
peel them without cutting them, then line a dish with puff paste,
lay the fruit close together, put in a little water for a medium-sized
pie, strew over a teacup of sugar, dredge a little flour over, grate 1-2
nutmeg or more, a large pinch of salt, put the crust on, cut a slit in
the center. Bake one hour in a hot oven.
CHERRY, DAMSON, Rhubarb, Gooseberry, Currant, Plum, Apple,
Whortleberry, Raspberry, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Currant, Cran-
berry, Dewberry and Blackberry pies may all be made in the same
way in cold weather.
CHERRY PIE. Should have 4 mixture of other fruit ; currants or
raspberries or both.
BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY AND WHORTLEBERRY PIES. Are made
by stewing the fruit in a preserving pan with sugar and spices to taste.
When the fruit is put in the dish lined with paste drop over it bits
of butter and a little citron chopped finely, if you have it, then
put on the top crust made richly, perforate, glaze and bake it till
of a light brown. Eaten cold with ice-cold milk or custard. Damson
and plum pies are made in this way.
LKMON PIKS (Extra nice.) Ten tablespoons sugar, yolks of
5 ^ggs, 2 tablespoonfuls corn starch in i cup of milk, i large spoon-
ful of butter, 2 grated lemons put in the crust and baked, then
beat the whites well, add 5 spoonfuls white sugar, put on top of the
pie. Bake in the oven 5 minutes. This will make two beautiful
pies.
BUTTER PIE. Cover a pie plate with a crust, as for custard pie,
take a piece of butter the size of an egg, 2-3 cup of sugar, one
cup of cream, sweet and thick, i tablespoonful of flour. Stir but-
ter, flour and sugar together, then stir in the cream, pour in the
pie plates. Bake until brown. Mrs. Arnold.
PUMPKIN PIE. Take the^pumpkin which has stewed down to
form a thick mash, put it in a bowl with milk and eggs beaten up,
and stir it well until very thick. (The pumpkin here being strained
through a colander or hair sieve.) For a family pie put 3 eggs to i
quart of milk. The more eggs the better the pie, and if you wish
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
it richer make it thinner and add sweet cream and 2 eggs more ; two
teaspoonfuls of sifted cinnamon and I of powdered ginger, but all-
spice may be used or any other spices that may be prepared. The
peel of lemon or orange gives it a pleasant flavor. Some put i egg
to a gill of cream. Bake i hour in deep plates or shallow dishes in
a hot oven.
SQUASH PIE. (Liverpool Steamer's recipe.) Two "quarts each of
sifted squash and new milk, 6 well beaten eggs, stir well, flavor wifr v
nutmeg or lemon to the taste.
SQUASH PIE. Pare the squash and remove the seeds, stew it in as
little water as possible till soft, then squeeze through a colander, then
stir as much sweet milk into the squash so as to make it thick as
batter ; grated ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon. Sweeten with sugar,
add 2 or 3 eggs well whisked for each quart of milk used. Line
your pie plates with crust and fill them with the mixture. Bake one
hour in a moderate oven.
LEMON PIE. The grated peel and juice of 3 lemons, i cup of
sugar, i of molasses, i cup of chopped raisins or currants boiled, i
cup of water and two eggs. Bake with three crusts. Mrs. Lane,
Panama.
LEMON PIE. Mrs. R's. Three lemons, 3 cups sugar and a des-
sert spoonful of flour; rinds of i 1-2 lemons. Beat the sugar and
eggs together, grate the lemon rinds, then add the flour and i cup of
water. Bake.
LEMON PIE. One chopped lemon, i cup sugar, i 1-2 crackers
crumbled fine, 3 tablespoonfuls hot water for i pie. Baked with 2
crusts.
LEMON PIE WITH 3 CRUSTS. A layer of crust, a layer of lemon
sliced fine, a little sugar, a layer of crust again, and sugar and lemon
again, then the upper crust.
LEMON PIE. Take the juice and rind of i lemon, grate the rind
and put the juice of the lemon in a pint of hot water, thicken with
com starch. Upper and lower crust. One cup of sugar to each
lemon, and butter as large as an English walnut. Mrs. L. M. Kel-
logg-
IMITATION OF LEMON PIE. Pare and boil a turnip and a tea-
spoonful of tartaric acid and a cup of sugar. Season and bake as
apple pie.
LEMON PIE. (Annie's.) Bake your c/usts in a tin pie plate, then
make the filling with i large lemon squeezed or juice, throw the peel
in water, then grate it. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs, some butter, a lit-
tle flour, 2 coffee cups of pounded loaf sugar, i cup of cream, mix
all till smooth, then pour over the cold crust and bake till set. Beat
the whites to a solid froth, take up the pie again, and when cold put
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 313
on the beaten whites and set it a moment in the oven. Eat cold. If
wished, more flour or corn starch and cream or milk may be added.
Il will be enough for 2 or 3 pies. Delicious. *
LKMON PIE. Six eggs, whites separate, i pint of milk, 1-4 Ib. of
butter, i-2 pound of sugar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons. Beat the
sugar and butter together, and squeeze the juice and grate the rind
of the lemons in the butter and sugar ; stir in the yolks of the eggs,
and last of all put in the whites and mix well. Bake like custard
pies.
ANOTHER WAY LEMON PIE. Line a deep plate with paste as in
making a custard; to fill it secure the whites of 3 eggs beat to a
froth, with 3 tablespoonfuls of fine sugar; pour over the custard
when done and brown lightly.
LEMON RAISIN PIE. One cup each of sugar, chopped and seeded
raisins and water, i lemon chopped fine. Boil for 3-4 hour in a
pudding bag.
LEMON PIE. One lemon, one egg, one cup of sugar, two cups
of boiling water, two tablespoonsfuls of corn starch ; mix corn
starch and sugar, dry and pour on boiling water, then add juice
and grated rind of lemon, yolk of egg and tablespoonful of butter.
Bake same as custard on crust. Business Women's Home, N. Y. C.
A FINE FISH PIE. Boil 2 pounds of small eels, cut the fins off
close, pick off the flesh and put the bones with mace, pepper, salt
and a sliced onion into the liquor, boil the whole till rich and then
strain it. Make forcemeat of the flesh, a sprot or herring, parsley,
lemon peel, salt, pepper, crumbs, i cup of butter warmed. Lay all
this at the bottom of the dish. Take the flesh of some nice fish,
small cod or trout and lay it on the forcemeat after rubbing in salt
and pepper ; pour the gravy over the pie and bake it. The fins and
skins must be carefully removed.
EEL PIE. Wash and trim them well, cut them in pieces of three
inches in length, season with pepper and salt and fill the dish, omit-
ting the heads and tails; pour in a glass of water or veal broth,
cover it with paste, mix the same with a brush dipped in the yolk of
an egg, ornament the pie with some paste, bake it an hour, and when
clone pour in sauce made as follows: The trimmings boiled in 1-2
pint of veal gravy seasoned with pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of
lemon juice and thicken with flour and water ; strain it through a
fine sieve and let it be boiling hot when put into the pie.
SAVOY PIE. Scald and remove the inner portions of the fish ;
when well washed and dried make a forcemeat as follows : Take the
flesh of eels, cut small, some grated bread, 2 buttered eggs, a her-
ring cut up, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt ; mix the whole
together and put some into the perch, leaving the rest for balls, then
314 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
lay the fish in the dish, add a little beaten mace, some butter and
1-2 pint of claret; cover the pie and bake it in a moderate oven.
SALMON PIE. About 4 pounds are required. Cut into thin slices
separately with peppei*, salt and a very little mace. Pound a pint of
shrimps with an ounce of butter and mould into small balls. Mix
with a piece of salmon. Boil down the bones and skin of the fish
into a jelly and fill up the dish. Cover with good paste and bake an
hour.
MOUNTAIN TROUT PIE. Wash and prepare a large mountain
trout, then take an eel and boil it till nearly tender, pick off the meat
and mince it fine with the same quantity of crumbs of bread, some
sweet herbs, lemon peel cut small, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, a
herring, 1-2 pint of oysters par-boiled and chopped fine and the
yolks of 3 hard eggs cut small. Roll this mixture with 1-4 pound
of butter and fill the trout. Cover the dish with a crust and lay the
fish therein. Save the liquor in which the eel was boiled, put the
bones into it, and boil the whole with mace, whole pepper, i onion
(sweet), i herring or spot, till reduced to 1-2 pint. Strain it and add
i -4 pint of white wine and a piece of butter mixed with flour. Boil
this and pour it into the pie, put on the cover and bake it i hour in
a quick oven. Rock fish, soles and halibut may be done in the same
manner, only using port wine instead of white wine or claret.
FISH PIES can be made like the Old Virginia pot pie. They are
very good. Only large fish are used.
FISH PIE. Boil a large Rock fish, pick it up, add to it 3 eggs, 3
spoonfuls of butter, i of flour and make it into a batter with milk ;
add pepper and salt to taste. Bake between crusts, or one, in a
pan.
GAME PIE, FLY AWAY. (Liverpool and Steamer Cook) Make
your game pie in a mould for the purpose ; with a mould also for the
purpose covered with paste and baked with the pie ; then over the
cold pies cut white paper to fit the top of the pie ; several thicknesses
over it, then put in some live birds under the top standing on the
white paper. Persons not knowing the secret will hear the chirping
and twitting of the birds and not know where they are. When the
dish is to be help the waiter will remove the top and the birds fly
away. The papers removed . with the top at once and the pie
served. To some it may be amusing.
SQUAB PIE. Cut apples as for other pies and lay them in rows
with mutton chops, chopped onions and sprinkle it among them and
some butter with the squabs cut in pieces.
SQUAB PIE A NEW HAMPSHIRE WAY. Take 12 nicely cleaned
squabs, then mix up to a thick paste 6 heaped teaspoonfuls each of
sweet fresh butter and flour, then into each bird put half a teaspoon-
MEAT AND SAVORY PIES. 315
ful of the mixture, then place the birds into a baking pan, sprinkle
over them salt and pepper to suit, then have ready a nice rich and
thick pie crust and put over and rather slowly bake a nice brown.
Then cut the crust in slices with long corners and turn the underside
upon a plate and on each slice place one of the birds for each per-
son (with a spoon), and some of the gravy. All should be served
hot.
NOTE. Other birds and most pies can be made in the same way,
only more butter.
LEMON Pi R Six lemons grated, 8 eggs, 2 coffee cups of white
sugar ; beat the eggs thoroughly, reserving the whites of 2 Then
mix and stir all together till perfectly smooth ; put the mixture on a
crust ; then beat the 2 whites to a solid foam and put it on the top
for frosting and bake a very delicate brown.
ORANGE PIES are made in the same manner, using the best white
sugar. No flavoring is required for either.
ACID PIE (Bingham). One cup soft bread or crackers, r cup
sugar, 2 cups water, a little lemon, i egg, i teaspoonful tartaric acid.
Bake on one crust. N. B. The French use a great deal of butter
in cooking.
VINEGAR PiE; A cupful each of good fruit vinegar and sugar ;
boil together in a porcelain kettle and let it cool ; add i or 2 well-
beaten eggs with a tablespoonful of butter. Bake between 2 crusts.
If the vinegar is very strong use 1-2 cup of vinegar and 1-2 cupful
water. Flavor to taste.
SLICED POTATO PIES (A Southern Dessert). For this take a
deep soup plate to bake it in. Boil or bake medium-sized sweet po-
tatoes not quite done; yams are consideree the best. Line the plate
with a rich pie paste; slice the potatoes in thin, long chips and place
a layer at the bottom of the plate, over this spread a thick layer of
nice brown sugar, over this place thin slices of butter or in slugs and
sprinkle with flour, seasoning with spices to taste. A large teaspoon-
ful each of butter and flour will be sufficient for one pie. Put on
another layer of potatoes heaped a litttle in the middle, so as to give
it a swell in the center. Mix together equal quantities of the best
wine (California will do) and water, or sweet cider, or vinegar
nnd water, or a little brandy diluted with water. Pour in enough to
half-fill the pies, sprinkle over them a little flour and place on the
upper crust, pinching the edges carefully together. Cut a hole in
the center or stick with a fork the upper crust. Bake slowly for i
hour.
N. B. In making the above pie I always sprinkle some finely
pulverized spices that may be prepared between each layer. Cori-
nder seems to be a suitable spice for this pie.
316 MEAT AND SAVORY PIES.
WASHINGTON PIE One cup of sugar, 1-3 of a cup of butter, 1-2
cup uf s'.veet milk, i 1-3 cup of flour, i egg, 1-2 teaspoonful soda,
i of cream of tartar ; lemon flavor ; grease 2 round tins and put in
the above. Bake until done, then put it on a dinner plate, spread
with nice apple sauce or sauce of any kind ; then another layer of
cake on top. It is rich without same, but sauce improves it.
LEMON CRACKER PIE. 2 large lemon crackers or sea biscuits, i
cup of sugar, i cup of water, the grated peel and juice of i lemon.
Bake between 2 crusts.
MOLASSES PIE (Madam St. Clair, Ala.) Four eggs well beaten, i
heaped tablespoonful of butter, 3 cups of batter ; flavor with lemon
or any other spices. Bake on i crust.
MOLASSES PIE. Two cups of molasses, i of apple vinegar, '3
heaped teaspoonfuls of flour or 2 of corn starch ; beat up in a bowl
of cold water; add a lump of butter the size of a hen's egg, stir
while boiling until it becomes a thick paste ; flavor with nutmeg.
Bake between crusts or only on an under-crust baked a little before
the mixture is spread over when it is cold.
RHUBARB PIE. Cut off the skin from the young green stalks and
cut them into small pieces ; put the'm in the pie with plenty of brown
sugar. You can hardly put in too much. Cover the pie and bake
like green sliced apple pie.
PIE NICE AND HANDY. Cut some light bread as large as you
wish i inch thick slices cut off the brown crust, put the slices in
a dish, then a layer of preserved, stewed or raw mellow fruit cut in
thin slices, then a layer of bread slices, and then the fruit ; pour in a gill
of rich cream or sweet milk or sauce ; set in the stove till it gets hot
through and simmers a little, grate over some nutmeg or lemon
peel.
NOTE If the fruit has been cooked there is no need of heat-
ing it.
R. R. PIE (Mrs. Belle Gregg, Coles Co., 111.) Prepare the crust
as for custard pie ; 2 cups pure cream, i tablespoonful of flour , peal
and core i dozen large apples and one-half dozen small ones,
boil the apples in two tablespoonfuls of water. The apples
should be cut very thin, then lay the crust in a deep pie
dish, and upon it a layer of apples, then a layer of sugar with a lit-
tle grated lemon peel ; mix cream and flour and pour over the ap-
ples and sugar, and continue this till the dish is full; let the apples
be the last and topmost layer. Bake in a quick oven. Set in a cool
place to get cold. If convenient extract of lemon may be used in-
stead of the peel.
PARSLKY PIE. Lay a fowl, or a few bones of the scrag of veal,
seasoned into a dish, scald a colanderful of picked parsley in milk,
PATTIES. 317
season it and add to it the fowl or meat with a teacupful of any sort
of good broth or weak gravy. When it is baked pour into it 1-4
pint of cream scalded with the size of a walnut of butter and a bit
of flour. Shake it round to mix with the gravy already in. Lettuce,
white mustard leaves or spinach may be added to the parsley and
scalded before put in.
ARTICHOKE PIE. Boil 12 artichokes, break off the leaves and the
bottoms, make a good crust and spread 1-4 Ib. of butter over the
bottom of the dish, then place a row of artichokes, strew pepper,
salt and mace beaten, cover them, then another row of artichokes,
and so on alternately. Boil 1-2 ounce of truffles or mushrooms and
in small morsels scatter them over the pie, add i gill of white wine,
then cover and bake your pie.
VEGKTABLE PIE. Take Windsor beans, young carrots, a sliced
turnip, two or three artichoke bottoms, a small quantity of spinach, a
gill of green peas, and if not objected to, an onion and a small
bunch of parsley; put these into a stew pan with 1-2 pint of cream,
2 teaspoonfuls of salt and i of pepper and stew for 1-4 hour, then
beat all together and turn into a pie dish, adding 2 ounces of butter.
Cover with a thin puff paste and bake 1-4 hour; serve hot. This is
a good dish.
PATTIES.
PATTIES. Roll out puff paste half inch thick, cut them with a
round cutter, the size wanted ; mark the top where to be taken out ;
glaze them over with yolk of egg or cream, and bake in a quick oven.
When done cut the inside out and put in patty meat as described
under the different heads of patty meats. If a top is wanted cut a
smaller size and roll a little thiner; when baked take out the bottoms
and cover over the other. Force meat for patties may be prepared
from many different articles.
BiiEF PATTIES. They are made of underdone beef, chopped small,
seasoned with pepper, salt, cayenne, shalot and onion ; a little butter,
cream or rich gravy may be added at pleasure.
TURKEY PATTIES. Mince som,e of the white meat and add thereto
grated lemon peel, nutmeg, salt, white pepper, cream and a little
butter ; put the whole over the fire some time and then make as be-
fore directed.
LOBSTER PATTIES. Take a hen lobster that has been boiled, pick
out the meat from the tail and claws, chop it fine and put it into a
stewpan with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till
perfectly smooth; add thereto an ounce of fresh butter, 1-2 gill of
cream and the same of veal jelly, and cayenne pepper, salt and a
3 1 8 PUFFS AND TARTS.
teaspoonful of flour and water. Stew them 5 minutes and make
your patties according to the former directions.
SWEET PATTIES. Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, use the
liquor for jelly ; take 2 apples, i oz. of orange and lemon peel can-
died; also some fresh peel and juice; mix them with 1-2 nutmeg
grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy and 4 oz. clean
currants. Bake them in small patty pans.
PATTIES RESEMBLING MINCED PIES. Chop the kidney and fat of
cold veal and add thereto an apple, orange and lemon peel candied,
fresh currants, a little wine, 2 or 3 cloves, some brandy and water.
Make the patties and bake them.
FRIED PATTIES. Mince cold veal and oysters, then mix a few
crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon peel, add thereto
the liquor of the oysters, warm the whole, but do not let it boil. As
it cools get ready a good puff paste, roll it thin and cut it into square
pieces, put some of the ingredients between two of them, twist up
the edges and fry them brown. This is a fashionable dish wtien
baked.
OYSTER PATTIES. Roll out some puff paste 1-4 inch thick, cut it
into squares, sheet 8 or 10 patty pans and put upon each a small bit
of bread ; roll out another layer of paste of the same thickness, cut
as before. Wet the edge of the bottom of the paste and lay on the
top, pare the edges round and notch them with the back of the knife,
rub them with the yolk of an egg and bake them in a hot oven
about 1-4 hour. When done take a thin slice off the top, and with
a knife or spoon take out the bread or paste, leaving the outside en-
trre ; parboil 2 dozen large oysters, strain them from their liquor,
wash, beard and cut them into 4 large pieces, put them into a stew-
pan with i oz. of butter rolled in flour, 1-2 gill of cream, some grated
lemon peel and the oyster liquor that has been reduced by boiling
to 1-2, some cayenne, salt and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Stir
the whole over the fire 5 minutes and fill the patty pans.
LOBSTER AND SHRIMP BOUCHEES. The lobsters and shrimps are
prepared by chopping them into dice and served with or without
crust. When served without paste covers sprinkle some fine bread
crumbs slightly over the top.
SOLE BOUCHEFS OR SMALL OYSTER PATTIES. Prepare as described
in bouchees.. Take the fillets of large sole and cook them in a
saucepan with some butter, salt and lemons cut.
PUFFS AND TAKTS.
LEMON PUFFS. Beat and sift 11-4 pound of the best of su-
gar powdered, grate the rind of 2 lemons and mix the same with
PUFFS AND TARTS.
3*9
sugar, then beat the whites of 3 new-laid eggs, add them to the su-
gar, and peel and beat it for an hour ; make it up into shape and
bake it on oiled paper laid on tin plates in a moderate oven. The
paper must remain till cold. Oiling it will make it come off with
ease.
ALMOND PI/FFS. Blanch 2 ounces of sweet almonds, beat them
fine with orange flower water. Beat up also the whites of 3 eggs
to a froth and strew in a little sifted sugar; mix the almonds with
the sugar and the eggs and add more sugar till it is thick as paste.
Make it into cakes and bake them in a moderate oven.
RENNET PUFFS. Pour a little rennet into 2 quarts of milk, and
when it is broken put it into a coarse cloth to drain. Then rub the
curd through a sieve (hair) and put to it 4 ounces of butter. 10 oz.
of bread, 1-2 nutmeg, a lemon grated and a spoonful of wine.
Sweeten with sugar to your taste, rub your cups with butter and put
them into the oven for about 30 minutes.
APPLE PUFFS. Pare the apples and* either stew or bake them ;
when cold mix the pulp with sugar and lemon peel chopped fine,
taking but little of the juice. Bake them in a thin paste in a quick
oven for 15 minutes. Any kind of marmalade will make it better
with a little seasoning of spice.
SUGAR PUFFS. Beat the whites of 10 eggs to a stiff froth, then
put them in a marble mortar with as much powdered white sugar as
will make it thick ; rub it well round, put in a few caraway seeds,
then take a sheet of wafers and lay the same on, each as broad as
a gold dollar and as high as you can. Put them in a moderate oven
for 1-4 hour.
CHOCOLATE -PUFFS. Beat and sift 1-2 Ib. of the best loaf sugar,
scrape into it i ounce of chocolate very fine and mix the whole to-
gether. Beat up the white of an egg to a froth and strew into it the
sugar and the chocolate, beating it till it is as thick as paste, then
sugar the paper, drop them about the size of a dime and bake in a
slow oven.
POTATO PUFFS (Aunt Judy's.) After clearing from the gristle cut
small equal portions of cold meat, beef mutton, veal and ham to-
gether ; then season with pepper, salt and minced pickles if fancied,
then form a paste with boiled Irish potatoes mashed and an egg ;
roll the paste out and dredge with flour ; cut round with a saucer,
put some of the seasoned meat upon one half and fold the other over
like puff; pinch neatly round and fry a light brown. A nice way to
save odds and ends of cold meat.
NOTE One kind of meat will do.
PUDDING PUFFS. Mix 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1-2 pint
of cream and two tablespoonfuls of orange flower or rose water.
320 PUFFS AND TARTS.
Sweeten the whole with sugar, put the batter into deep custard cups
about 1-2 full, set them in an oven, and when the puffs rise to the top
they are done.
PRUNE TARTS. Scald the prunes and break the stones, put the
kernels into some cranberry juice with the fruit and sugar, simmer
the whole over a slow fire, and when cold make a tart of the sweet-
meat.
CHOCOLATE TARTS. Rasp 4 ounces of chocolate and a slice of
cinnamon ; add them to fresh lemon peel grated ; salt and sugar.
Take 2 spoonfuls of flour and the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten and
mixed with milk ; put the whole in a stew pan and set it over the
fire. When taken off put in lemon peel cut small and let it stand
till cold. Beat up enough of the whites of eggs to cover it and put
it into puff paste. When baked throw sifted sugar over it and glaze
it with a salamander.
ALMOND TARTS. Blanch some almonds, beat them fine in a mor-
tar with a little white wine and some sugar in the proportion of one
Ib. to the same quantity of almonds ; add to these grated bread,
nutmeg, cream and the juice of spinach for coloring. Bake it gently,
and when done thicken it with candied orange or citron.
TRANSPARENT TARTS. Take i Ib. of flour, beat up an egg till it
is quite thin, then melt 3-4 Ib. of clarified fresh butter to mix with
the eggs, and as soon as it is cool pour the whole into the center of
the flour and form the paste. Roll it thin, make up the tarts, and on
setting them in the oven; wet them over with a little water and grate
on them a small quantity of sugar.
GREEN PEA TART. Boil some young peas a short time, put to
them a little salt with some sifted sugar, fresh butter and saffron ;
cover them with a fine paste, bake the last g'ently and serve it with
sifted sugar.
RASPBERRY TART. Roll out some thin paste and lay it in a dish
or patty pan. Put in the raspberries, throw over them some fine su-
gar, cover the the dish with a fine crust and bake. When done cut
it open and put in warm 1-2 pint cream, the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs
well beaten and a little sugar. Return to the oven for 5 or 6 minutes
and serve up.
CREAM TARTS Put the paste as thin as a knife blade around the
forms. For a dozen tablespoonfuls of flour, 1-4 Ib. fine white sugar,
9 or 10 eggs, put in a pan and stir it, i pint each of sweet and sour
cream ; stir and mix thoroughly together and fiil up the forms. Bake
in a cool oven.
FRENCH TART OF PRESERVED FRUIT. Cover a flat dish or patty
pan about 1-8 of inch thick. Roll out some more paste 1-2 an inch
in thickness, cut it into strips, each i inch in width, wet the paste
PUFFS AND TARTS. 321
and lay it around the pan, fill the center with jam or marmalade, sur-
round it with leaves of paste. Bake 1-2 hour. Send it to the table
cold.
POLISH TARTLETS. Roll some nice puff paste out thin, cut it into
21-2 inch squares ; brush each square over with the white of an
egg and fold down the corners so that they all meet in the middle of
each piece of paste ; slightly press and pinch the two pieces with
the finger and thumb; brush them over with eggs; sift over sugar;
bake in a quick oven for 1-4 of an hour. When done make a little
hole in the center and fill with jam or jelly.
GOOSEBERRY TART BUTTER PASTRY. Half pound butter, 2 eggs,
1-2 Ib. flour; roll out very nicely, put in any kind of preserves, 1-2
Ib. sugar, 1-2 Ib. almonds chopped, a little lemon, mix well together.
Then stir in the whole of an egg to a froth, mix it light and pour
over the top of the fruit. Bake 3-4 of an hour.
322 SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES.
SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES.
GOLDEN CUPS. One' quart of milk, 3 good tablespoonfula of
rice boiled and stand to cool, 2 ounces of butter; put on your
milk to boil, mix the rice very smooth with some cold milk; as
soon as the former begins to boil, stir in the latter and let the
whole boil for 20 minutes. In the meantime prepare a small mus-
lin bag of saffron and boil with the compound, then remove it
after having colored the rice a gold color; whilst the milk is warm
add the butter and a little salt ; rinse your custard cup with cold
water, 1-2 fill them with the mixture; when it becomes cold, then
turn out of the cups and retain their forms. They are very orna-
mental to the table. To be eaten with cream and a little grated
nutmeg. Rose-colored or green cups may be produced in the
same way by substituting a little cochineal for the rose color
and spinach juice for the green color, in place of saffron flowers.
CINNAMON STARS. Stir together for 1-2 hour 1-2 Ib. of coarsly-
pounded almonds, 1-2 ounce of cinnamon and the whites ot three
eggs beaten to a froth ; strew some sugar and cinnamon mixed to-
gether over the froth board, turn out the mass upon it, roll this out
with the mixed flour and sugar to twice the thickness of the back of
a knife ; cut out of this stars with a paste cutter (mould) for this
purpose in the shape of a star, put them on a baking plate coated
with wax, and continue in this way till you have used all your paste.
Before putting the stars into the oven wash them over with beaten-
up egg and dip them into mixed sugar and cinnamon.
GATEUX D'EPICE. The peculiarity of the French ginger-bread is
delicate flavor of the vanilla. Pour over the fire i pound of treacle,
6 ounces of butter, i ounce of powdered ginger, i ounce of pow-
dered cinnamon, i ounce of pounded cardamon, i ounce each of
candied lemon and orange peel in shavings, and 1-2 pod of vanilla
pounded with a tablespoonful of brandy ; stir the mixture well and
simmer for 5 minutes, then pour it out of the pan, and when cool
beat it by degrees in as much flour as you can knead into a smooth
paste ; bake on buttered tins in small cakes or nuts in a slow oven
for 3-4 hour-
ANGEL'S FOOD. (Miss White.) Beat the whites of 6 eggs to a
froth, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, into it beat jelly to give
it a pretty color, whip a pint of cream sweetened and seasoned to
taste. Pour the preparation over and serve with the cake.
A BEAUTIFUL DISH. On the top of a flat cake pour first a layer
of the white of an egg beaten with white pounded sugar very evenly,
let it remain for a moment to become settled, then put on the
SWKET AND DELICATE DISHES. 323
same egg colored with a little cochineal, then another layer of the
same colored with saffron, then another colored with the green
juice of spinach, then another colored with finely powdered cho-
colate. Each layer should remain a moment or two before an-
other is added, and flavored differently to fancy ; then begin again
with white and repeat the process, then finish with a white layer,
and over this strew veins of each color of the egg and sugar
froth in any figure from a teaspoon, then put a round dress of
each in different places ; then set for a moment in a cool stove
or oven to harden. Then in slicing the cake it will appear as
though covered with a beautiful strata. Then put here and there
fragments of sparkling jelly.
ROCK WORK. Made of beef carved so as to resemble the wash-
ing of the waves of the ocean through a rock Then lay on red
jelly, then streaks of yellow and brown jelly, then parsley minced
very fine to resemble green moss, over which sprinkle the yellow
and white of eggs chopped fine and separately, then jelly of differ-
colors moulded so as to represent black, grey and yellow snails, as
if sticking to the rock interspersed over it. This rock resting on
green and gold jelly to represent the waves of the sea, being laid in
an uneven way. The green should be made of spinach or mint
juice. A little white of an egg beaten to a froth may be dropped
around the back to represent foam. Dark-colored jelly of choco-
late in drops larger or smaller, may represent pebbles. A broken
pillar is represented by a piece of veal cut in that shape, or blanc
mange moulded in that form, overgrown with flowers (may be nat-
ural or artificial ones), with moss made as the above in rock work,
with rustic steps, and fragments lying around.
FRANGJPONE. This delicious, creamy material, is much used in
French cookery, for tartlets, with fruits or biscuits, and in various
confections, and is made immediately before using, as below.
Beat up very well, 6 eggs and put them into a stew-pan, with 3
tablespoonfuls of fine, very dry flour, 2 ozs. of bruised macaroons, 3
ozs. sugar, on which the rind of a lemon has been rubbed, a table-
spoonful of orange flower water, and a pint of new milk. Stir gently
over a slow fire for 20 minutes, never allowing it to boil, and when
thickened, it is ready for use. Poured over baked apples, pears,
quinces, etc., this makes an excellent entrement.
FRENCH MACAROONS. Pound in a mortar very fine, i Ib. of sweet
almonds, with whites of eggs, be careful they do not oil, then mix the
almonds and whites of eggs with 3 Ibs of powdered loaf sugar to a
fine thickness, so as to come off the spoon well, then put 3 sheets of
paper on your plate, and with a tablespoon, drop them oft at a little
distance from each other, so as not to touch, put them in rather a
324 SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES.
brisk oven, but mind they do not burn ; bake them a very fine brown
color, and crisp ; then let them stand till cold, betore you take them
off; but if they are burnt at the bottom, they will not come off at all,
so you must be careful of them.
A BIRO'S NEST. Make some clear jelly, of an amber color, and
fill a small, broad basin 1-2 full. Have some birds' eggs blown, fill
them with blanc-mange ; when the latter is quite cold, peel off the
shells, and it represents small eggs. Put some moss around a glass
dish, turn the jelly out and stand it in the middle, lay some lemon
peel, cut in thin strips, to represent straws, on the jelly, and place
the eggs on the top.
SNOW BALLS. Swell 1-2 a Ib. of rice in water with a roll of lemon
peel, till tender, drain it, divide it; having pared and cored apples,
and the holes filled with sugar and cinnamon, and cloves, put the rice
around them, tying each up in a cloth, tightly. Boil the rice and
serve with pudding sauce. If approved, the rice may be boiled in
milk.
RICE AND APPLES. Boil 1-2 a Ih. of rice with i pint of cream or
milk, with lemon peel and a bit of cinnamon ; let it boil, till the rice
is dry, then cool it. Raise a rim, 3 inches high round the dish ; hav-
ing egged the dish when it is put in, to make it stick ; then egg the
rice all over, after mixing it well with a spoonful of butter and 2
spoonfuls of sugar. Fill the dish half ways up with a marmalade of
apples, have ready the whites of 4 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and
and put them over the marmalade, then sift fine sugar over it and set
it in the oven, which should be warm enough to give a beautiful color;
or cover the marmalade with the rice, garnish with apple jelly, and
pour custard over it.
CURDS AND CREAMS. When the milk is curdled firmly, fill up a
melon, or any shape, perforated with holes to let the whey drain off.
Fill up the dish as the curd sinks ; turn it out when wanted, and
serve with cream in a glass dish, or a whip may be poured about
the curd, which may be made firm by squeezing, or long standing.
Garnish with currant jelly, or raspberry jam,
VOLAUVENT OF PEACHES ( French.) Put 4 ozs. sugar into a stew-pan
with a cupful of water, and the juice of a lemon, let it boil on the fire
till it forms a thick syrup, then take 8 right white Heath peaches, free
stone, not quite ripe, (cling stone Heath are very good) cut them in
two, break the stones, take out the kernels, scald them, throw 6 halves
of them into the boiling syrup, and let them remain 3 minute, then
with a perforated skimmer take them out, lay them on a dish and re-
move the skins ; stew the remainder, 4 at a time, in like manner ;
when all are done, pour the syrup that runs from them, again into
pan, then boil the liquid down to a proper thickness ; then strain
SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES. 32$
through flannel or a straining cloth into a bowl ; let it stand till cold,
when pour over the peaches, let remain until ready to serve, then fill
your volanvent with peaches and pour the syrup over. NOTE. Any
kind of peaches will do, but the white Heath are the best.
VOLAUVENT OF ORANGES. Remove the peel and pith well from 8
oranges, then divide them into as many pieces as there are sections,
put them into a porcelain kettle, with 3 ozs. of sugar aud the juice of
i 1-2 oranges; cover over and set on a slow fire, stirring occasion-
ally with a silver spoon. It requires only 10 or 12 minutes, then,
with the spoon, take out each piece separately into a bowl, then boil
the syrup down to a proper thickness. When ready to serve, pour
the syrup over the pieces of orange.
SWEET SOUFFLE. Take i pint of milk and as much flour, as will
come to a thick paste over the stove ; keep stirring all the time, and
add 6 yolks of eggs, and a pinch of salt, and as much sugar as you
like. Beat 8 whites of eggs all to a froth and stir them all together;
put in the oven 1-4 hour before wanting it ; the oven must be quick.
Glaze it with white sugar, and send it quickly to the table. It may
be made of ground rice. The rind of a lemon, grated, or lemon
juice, gives it a nice flavor.
SOUFFLE OF POTATOES WITH LEMON. Roast 10 potatoes ; when
they are done, open them and take out the pulp, and mix it with 1-2
pint of cream, add some butter, a pinch of salt, and a little lump of
sugar, not too much, lest the souffle should not be light, but enough
to give it a flavor ; add the yolks of 4 eggs to the above, then beat
the whites of 6 eggs, and mix with the rest. Pour it gently into a
dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When done, sift a little sugar
over it and brown with a salamander. It should be served imme-
diately.
PYRAMIDS OF MERINGUES. Make the meringues heart-shaped or
circular, then form a circle of the desired size by glueing the merin-
gues together with the wh;te of egg or gumarabic and sugar ; let this
dry a little, then gradually draw the circle smaller, until you arrive
at an entire closure. These are very ornamental on a party table.
CORN STARCH MERINGUE (R. H.'s recipe.) Four eggs, i quart
of milk, 3-4 cup of sugar, 4 teaspoontuls of corn starch, 1-2 cup of
IV .lit jelly or jam. Heat the milk to boiling and and stir in the corn
starch, which has been previously dissolved in a little cold milk, boil
15 minutes, stirring all the while; remove from the fire, and while
still hot add gradually the yolks of the eggs beaten up with sugar
and seasoned with vanilla, lemon or bitter almond. Pour this into
a buttered pudding dish and bake 1-4 hour, or until the custard be-
gins to set. without withdrawing it further than the door of the
oven spread lightly and quickly upon this a meringue of the whites
326 SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES.
whipped up stiff with 1-2 cup of jelly add gradually. Use crab
apple jelly if bitter almonds have been put into the custard ; cur-
rant for vanilla, strawberry, or any other sweet conserve, if you
season the custard with lemon. Bake covered for 5 minutes, then
remove the lid and brown the meringue very slightly. Eat cold
with powdered sugar sifted over the top.
QUEEN OF TRIFLES (Mrs. H.'s.) One-half pound of lady-fin-
gers or square sponge cakes, 1-2 pound of macaroons, the same
of sweet almonds blanched, the same of crystalized fruit chopped
fine, T cup sweet jelly or jam, i glass of brandy, i glass of the best
sherry, rose water, i pint of cream whipped, i pint of rich milk for
custard, 4 eggs, whites and yolks separated, i tablespoonful of corn
starch, i small cupful sugar for custard, a little powdered sugar for
whipped cream, vanilla flavoring for custard; put sponge cakes at
the bottom of a large glass dish, wet with brandy, and cover thinly
with jelly. Strew the mixed fruit thickly upon this.
LEMON TRIFLES. (Mrs. H.) Delicious. Two lemons, juice of
both, and grated rind of i ; 2 cups sherry, i large cup of sugar, i
pint cream well sweetened and whipped stiff, a little nutmeg; strain
the lemon juice over the sugar and grated peel, and let them lie to-
gether 2 hours before adding the wine and nutmeg. Strain again,
and whip gradually into the frothed cream ; serve in jelly glasses
and send around cake with it. It should not be allowed to stand, but
eaten as soon as made.
FLOATING ISLANDS. (Revolutionary recipe.) My dear old great
grandmother's. Beat 4 eggs to a solid foam, after putting 2 table-
spoonfuls each of currant jelly and raspberry jam ; continue to beat
until it is thoroughly incorporated. In the meantime, or before you
beat the eggs, lay in the bottom of a pretty china dessert dish some
Naples biscuit or thin slices of sponge cake, cover with sweetmeats
and cream or rich new milk, and then pile the egg froth on this as
high as you can. You may employ bits of preserves beaten with
the egg instead of the jam, and you can use only one kind of jelly
or jam, as you may please. This was a famous dish at wedding sup-
suppers, parties, Xmas dinners, and all grand festive occasions, by
our revolutionary grandmas in the old Dominion.
SAN FRANCISCO SYLLABUB. One quart of cream, i pint best Cali-
fornia white wine, the juice of a California lemon, i large orange or
2 small ones with a large glass of brandy, i gill of orange flower
water and pounded sugar to taste. Beat it up well, and as the froth
rises take it off and lay it on the back of a sieve to drain ; if it does
not rise well add the whites of 2 eggs. When done enough put a
little of the liquor into a glass and grate thereon some nutmeg and
fill them 1-2 with froth. It may be colored with cochineal or by
using red instead of white wine.
SWEET AND DELICATE DISHES. 327
COFFEE CHARLOTTE RUSSE. Line a mould with finger biscuits,
as above, roast 1-2 pound of green coffee in a coffee pan, boil i
quart of cream, put the coffee in it, and let it stand in a warm place
for an hour ; put 8 yolks of eggs in a stew pan with 3-4 pounds of
pounded sugar, strain in the coffee cream and stir over the fire until
the eggs begins to thicken. Steep i ounce of gelatine in cold wa-
ter, drain, and add it to cream ; stir till the gelatine is melted, strain
through a hair sieve into' a basin and stir the cream on the ice until
it begins to thicken ; add i quart of well whipped cream, and finish
th charlotte as directed in the preceding recipe.
APPLE CHARLOTTE. Peal and core 20 large, ripe, plump apples
cut them in thin slices, put them in a sauie pan,
with some butter and pounded sugar, and toss them over the fire
till they are done; Line a plain mould with bread, as follows; cut
some thin slices of bread crumb; cut it rou.id, i 1-2 inch cutter, to
put in the center, then cut some heart-shaped pieces, and dip them
in butter, together with the round piece; put the latter at the bottom
of the mould, in the center; and place the heart shaped pieces
around it, over-laping one another ; fill the center with the cooked
apples and put the Charlotte in the oven until the bread is well
colored. Turn the Charlotte out of the mould on a dish; glaze it
over with some boiled appricot jam ; and serve.
PEAR CHARLOTTE. Line the mould with bread as for apple
charlotte; peal 15 rather large, ripe and plump California pears, cut
them in quarters and cook them in a sauce-pan with some butter
and loaf sugar ; fill the mould with pears, put the Charlotte to color
in the oven ; turn it, cut and glaze it over with jam to fancy.
EGG BLANC MANGE. Take 2-3 box of gelatine and 4 1-2 cups of
sweet milk, pour the gelatine in a quart of milk and set it in the back
of the stove to dissolve the gelatine, then add a coffee cup of white
sugar while the milk is heating, beat the yolks of 6 eggs,
add half cup of milk to them, and when the milk is scalding hot, put
the eggs in flour with vanilla or extract of lemon. Stir carefully one
way until it is done, which will be in a few minutes. If it remains
over the fire too long, it will curdle. Three minutes will be long
enough to scald it. Take from the fire ; continue to sjir it gently
until it is quite cool Then rinse a mould and stir the mixture into
it ; put in ice. Eaten with sweet cream.
ORANGK SNOW. Four large Mandarine oranges, juice of all and
the peel of one, juice and the grated peel of one lime, i package
of the best gelatine soaked in 2 gills of water. The whites of five
eggs, beaten to a solid froth, i coffee cup heaped with sugar
(powdered) and 2 cups of boiling water. Mix the juice and peel of
the oranges and lime with the soaked gelatine, add the sugar ; stir
328 CREAMS.
all up well and let them alone for one hour, then pour on the boiling
water, and stir until clear. Strain through a coarse cloth, pressing
and wringing it hard, when quite cold, whip into this frothed whites
gradually, until thick and white. 1'ut into a wet mould for 8 hours.
CHOCOLATE CREAM. Put into a small stewpan a pint of milk and
6 ounces of pounded sugar, make it very hot and then stir in it
1-2 pint of made chocolate, and the beaten yolks of seven eggs. Put
it into a jug, stand it in a sauce pan of boiling water and stir it until
it becomes rather thick, but do not let it boil, then strain it through
muslin, and strain in it a large cupful of cream, put it into a mould
previously dipped into cold water, and set the mould on ice to set.
CREAMS.
VELVET CRKAM. To a pint of cream put a very little sugar, keep
stirring over the fire, till the sugar is dissolved, and then take it off,
but keep on stirring, till it is about the warmth of new milk, after
which pour it through a fine colander into a dish containing 3 spoon-
fuls of lemon or orange juice, a little grated peel, and a little fruit
marmalade, chopped small, with 2 spoonfuls of white wine. This
should be prepared the evening before it is wanted.
ORANGE CREAM. Dissolve i oz. of isinglass and 6 ozs. of loaf
sugar in a pint of boiling milk, having first rubbed off the rind of 5
oranges with some of the lumps of sugar. Extract the juice of the
oranges, and then strain the isinglass and other ingredients into it ;
add i gill of cream and the yolks of 4 eggs, which must be well
beaten ; pour the whole into a sauce-pan, and warm it over the fire,
but do not allow it to boil ; pour into a jug and stir until cold, before
you put it into a mold.
ICE CREAM. Take one quart of pure cream, and take 3-4 of a
pound of fine sugar, and take 4 eggs, and put that all on the fire and
keep stirring till it grows thick ; put a spoon in it, and when you put
the spoon in it, lift the spoon up, and if it drops from the spoon it is
cooked, but you must not let it boil. Put it in a freezer and flavor
with the essence of vanilla, or if it is convenient, put a vanilla bean
split, in the milk or cream and let it boil ; then you freeze it with ice
and coarse salt.
NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM. Rub well together, 12 eggs and i 1-4
pounds of white sifted sugar, and 2 quarts of perfectly fresh and pure
cream, flavor as below named, and cook in a farina boiler, (a tin
vessel, set into a larger one, containing hot water) stirring constantly,
until it thickens, but it must not curdle. Strain through a fine sieve
and put it on ice to cool. As there is "reason in the cooking of
eggs," so the cooking of ice-cream demands care and skill ; it may
HONEY. 329
be as readily undone or overdone, as a beefsteak or an oyster stew.
I will suppose you use Tingley's freezer, which I find superior to any
other. Pour the cream into the freezing can, put in the dasher,
cover and fasten, then break up your ice with a wooden mallet, in
any heavy, coarse cloth, old coffee sack or the like, to the size of a
walnut, and pack firmly around the can, adding coarsly ground salt,
until the tub is entirely full. A 4 quart can requires 25 pounds of ice
and i quart of salt. Cover and fasten the tub, and freeze according
to the directions accompanying each freezer, observing the more
slowly the work is done, the firmer and smoother will be the product.
If a large bulk of light, snowy cream is desired, turn the dasher as
rapidly as possible ; what is gained in volume, is lost in quality. If
beaten rapidly at first, or if beaten at all. before the cream is entirely
chilled, small grains of butter will appear diffused through the mass.
When the freezing is completed, open the can, remove the dasher,
pack the cream firmly down, replace the cover, drain off the water,
fill the tub with salt and ice in the proportions given, cover with a
woolen blanket, and let it stand several hours to harden, or ripen.
HONEY.
HONEY LIQUORICE (Hamb Ph.) Honey and a strong infusion of
liquorice boiled to a proper consistency. Excellent for a cold or
cough.
HONEY OF BORAX. Powdered broax i drachm, clarified honey i
oz. ; mix. Astringent, detersive and cooling, it is employed in sore
mouth and excessive salvation.
GRAPE HONEY. Formerly -used by Arabians and Persians, and
is still prepared in many portions of Syria and Palistine, by boiling
the must down to 1-3 and sometimes only to 1-2. In this way grape
jelly is found. According to Pliny the proper season for boiling is the
autumnal Equinox, in the night when there is no moon, or if it is
full moon in the day time. In Palestine and many parts of Syria,
especially in the neighborhood of Hebron, it is exported in great
quantities to Egypt.
N OTE When diluted with a little water it is frequently used in-
stead of sugar, or a substitute for butter, and is sometimes applied
to heal wounds.
OBSERVATIONS Why cannot the grapes be so used in Califor-
nia?
ARTIFICIAL HONEY. Soft water 6 pounds; best pure honey 3
pounds ; white moist sugar 20 pounds ; cream of tartar 80 grains ;
essence of roses 20 drops ; mix the above in a brass kettle, hoil over
a charcoal fire for 5 minutes, take it off, add the whites of 2
330 HONEY.
well beaten ; when almost cold add 2 pounds more of honey. A
decoction of slippery elm or mastic will improve the honey added
while cooling. In hot weather it will ferment.
GRANULATED HONEY (R. P.) The Jews of Moldarin and the
Ukraine prepare from honey a sort of sugar, which is solid and
white as snow, which they send to the distilleries of Dantzic.
They expose the honey to frost for3 weeks, where neither sun nor
snow can reach it, and in a vessel which is a bad conductor of
coleric, by which process the honey becomes clear and hard like
sugar. I have often seen it resemble granulated lard, and hard
enough to cut with a knife. It may be kept in this state for years
by keeping it a number of degrees below the freezing point in ice
in an ice-house. It greatly improves in flavor by becoming, as we
call it, "candied." It is granulated and beautiful returns to the
liquid state in warm weather. The Chinese have a way to make it
continue in this candied state, and sell it in jars as they do their pre-
serves. In every instance the comb is removed and the honey clear.
Though I have often seen the honey candied in the comb in very
cold weather. It is delicious whether in or out of the comb.
MANUFACTURED HONEY (A Cuban recipe.)--One quart of water,
1 1 pounds brown sugar, old bee honey in the comb 2 pounds, cream
tartar 50 grains, gum arabic i ounce, oil of peppermint 5 drops, oil
of rose 2 drops. Mix and boil 2 or 3 minutes and remove from
the fire. Have ready strained i quart of water, in which a table-
spoonful of pulverized slipery elm bark has stood sufficiently long
to make it ropy and thick like honey. Mix this into the kettle with
an egg beaten up, stir well a few minutes, and when a little cool add
2 pounds of nice strained bees' honey, then strain the whole, and
you will have not only an article which looks and tastes like honey,
but which possesses all its medical properties. The bark of the mastic
tree could be substituted for the slippery elm.
NOTE In preserving fruits in brandy or spirits place the fruit in
Jaottles, then pour the spirits over them, in which 1-2 pound of sugar
to every quart of spirits is dissolved. The spirits should be good.
SYRUPS Allow 2 pounds of the best sugar to every pint of pure
water, then pour the cold water on the sugar and let them remain
for some hours, stirring occasionally; then heat very gently to finish
the solution, after simmering i or 2 minutes ; then check it ; if
it pours out like oil it is done, or if a thin skim appears when flow-
ing on the syrup.
SUGAR BOILING FOR CANDYING. Take any quantity of well
clarified and perfectly transparent syrup and boil it to the required
degree, which is ascertained by dipping a perforated skimmer into
the boiling fluid and let it drain through into the kettle, then blow
HONEY. 331
through the holes, and if the syrup that remains forms into bladders
it has arrived at the second degree ; then to ascertain if it has ar-
rived at feathered degree re dip the skimmer and shake it over
the boiler, and if it flies off like feathers it is ready. Then boil a
while longer, then dip a stick into the syrup, and then into cold wa-
ter ; if right, the moment it touches it, it will snap like glass, when
it is at full candy height. At once remove from the fire and set in
cold water to keep from burning. One drop of oil will flavor a large
quantity, such as citron, Lergamot, &c.
SUGAR LEMON. To every 4 pounds of the best refined white
sugar 3 ounces of tartaric acid; 1-4 oz. essence of lemon. Used for
lemonade, &c.
HONEY, DOMESTIC, QUICKLY MADE. (Mrs. Curry.) For 2 coffee
cups of white gianulated sugar add 1-2 cup of water, in which is
melted a piece of citric acid as large as the end of the little finger,
or less. Boil in a porcelain kettle till it begins to thicken a little ;
when sufficiently cool pour into a jar or an earthen vessel ; keep
covered. Excellent for waffles or any kind of griddle cakes, pan-
cakes or fritters.
CANDIED CHERRIES FOR THE GRANGE. 1-2 gallon of the largest
red cherries; fully ripe, a pounds of good loaf sugar, i tumbler of
water; put the sugar into an enameled kettle and pour the water on
it, boil as for candy, until thick enough to pull, set it on the corner of
the stove and stir until it shows signs of granulation. To cause this
it should be stirred frequently while cooking. When the grains or
crystals appear on the back of the spoon, drop in the cherries, a
few at a time ; let each addition remain in the syrup for a few min-
utes, then place in a sieve over a dish ; shake gently but long, then
turn the cherries out to coo! upon a shallow broad dish, and dry in a
sunny place.
A GRANGER'S CANDIED LEMON PEEL. Take 15 California
lemons, 5 Ibs. of loaf sugar, with a small portion of lemon juice, 3 1-2
cups of clear, cold water. Remove carefully the peel from the lemon
in long strips, and let them remain in salt and water for a niylu ;
then wash them in four or five waters next morning, and boil until
tender and soft. They should look clear, but not so tender as to
break. Dissolve a large pinch of powdered alum in cold water
enough to cover the conserve, and let it remain for 2 hours. The
syrup now being ready, mix the sugar in 3 1-2 cups of water, add to
it the juice of 4 lemons, and boU until it ropes from the end of the
spoon, then add the peels to this and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
Then take them out and spread upon a sieve set over a dish ; shake
cautiously and frequently, tossing over the peel until almost dry.
Sift granulated sugar over them, and lay them upon a clean cloth
332 CANDIES.
spread over a table in the open air. When thoroughly dried, pack
in glass jars.
To CANDY ANY SORT OF FRUIT. When finished in the syrup, put
a layer of fruit into a seive and dip it suddenly into hot water, to
take off the syrup that hangs about it; then put it on a napkin be-
fore the fire to drain, and place some more in the seive. Have
ready sifted double refined sugar, which, sift over the fruit on all
sides, till quite white. Set it, in a single layer, on seives in -a lightly
warm oven, and turn it two or three times ; it must not be allowed
to get cold until dry ; watch it carefully, and it will have a beautiful
appearance. When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the
sun or in a stove, it will be best in private families where there is not
a regular stove for the purpose, to put them in the sun, on flag-
stones, which reflect the heat, or put them into an oven, taking care
not to let it be too warm, and watch that they are done properly and
slowly.
To CLARIFY SUGAR FOR PRESERVING FRUITS, ETC. To every
pound of broken sugar take 1-4 pint of water and the half of an egg,
beat up ; stir this up until the sugar dissolves; when it boils, and
the scum rises strong and thick, pour in another gill of water to each
pound ; let it boil, edging the pan forward till all the scum is thrown
off. Set it on the hearth, and when it has settled, take off the scum,
and lay it on a reversed hair seive over a dish, that the syrup may
run from it; return the syrup into the pan, and boil and skim it once
more.
CANDIES.
HOMK-MADE CANDY. Use a new tin basin, put into it 4 table-
spoonfuls of water, i Ib. ol coffee sugar, T teaspoonful of good cream
of tartar; boil, stirring constantly to avoid burning. After it begins
to have a sappy appearance, try it often by dropping a little into
cold water, and if done, it will at once become brittle. Butter an
earthen dish and pour the hot candy into it, that it may cool enough
to handle. Flavor to taste with oil of peppermint, wintergreen, sas-
safras or lemon ; two drops will flavor it strong. For variety, divide
it into 3 or four parts and flavor differently by touching one kind of
oil to each. Work in the hands at once ; the more it is pulled the
whiter it will get.
ALMOND TAFFY. Boil a syrup of i Ib. of sugar to i 1-2 pints of
water to caramel height, throwing in an ounce of blanched almonds,
split into strips, and i oz. of butter. When the candy hardens at
once in the water, turn it out into a buitered slab and cut into thin
squares.
HOARHOUND CANDY. Good for cough and hoarseness. Gather
CANDIES.
33.3
the herb and wash it clean, then boil till the juice is extracted ; then
boil some sugar, till it becomes light, and add the juice of the hoar-
hound to it, and boil it up again. Stir it with a spoon against the
side of the pan, till white, then pour it into a paper case, horizontal-
ly, dust it with fine sugar, and cut in squares ; or the hoarhound may
be dried, and put into the sugar, finely powdered and sifted.
SAN FRANCISCO KISSES. Beat 12 eggs to a froth, and slowly
sprinkle i Ib. of fine sugar in it, while beating do not stir it; as soon
as the sugar is in, stop beating. Have a tin tube and put it on pa-
per about 3 inches long, and bake in a quick oven ; as soon as dry,
press the center down, fill with thick cream, seasoned to taste, .pile it
high in the center, and turn one piece on the other, to form an egg-
shape.
CHOCOLATE CREAMS. Are made by boiling 20 Ibs. of best white
sugar to hard balls, and stirring, till it is formed into a cream, then
make holes with your moulds in the best white powdered starch; and
fill with the cream ; take them out of your starch, put them in a
sieve and brush well, then dip into melted chocolate, and let them
stand till cold.
LITTLE MOLLY'S GRANDMAMA'S VINEGAR CANDY. Four cups
white sugar, 2 cups clear vinegar ; after stirring the sugar and vine-
gar until dissolved perfectly, then stew gently, till it harden a little on
the spoon, then pour upon broad, flat dishes, well buttered, and cool.
Then, as soon as you are able to put the tips of your fingers into it
without burning begin to pull it, until white and porous. It is ex-
cellent for a cough, or sore throat, or hoarseness.
BUTTER SCOTCH CANDY. Four cups brown sugar, 2 of butter,
vinegar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, and a little soda; boil 1-2
hour. Drop a little in hot water; if crisp, it is done.
MOLASSKS CANDY. (Our Own.) Two pints of molasses, i 1-2 Ibs.
brown sugar, the juice of a large lemon, and 12 drops of oil of lemon.
Mix the molasses and sugar together, butter the inside of your ket-
tle, and put your ingredients in it, then boil over a moderate fire
for 2 hours, add the lemon juice and boil for 30 minutes ; stir it
often to prevent it from burning. When thoroughly done, it will
cease boiling, then butter a flat dish or pan, and pour it out to cool.
If sufficiently done, it will be crisp and brittle, if not, it will be tough
and ropy. Nuts of any kind may be added just before it is put in
the pan, and stirred well into the candy. Pull with the hand when
sufficiently cool.
MOLASSES CANDY. (Julia French.) One cup of molasses, i cup of
sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, piece of butter the size of an egg,
boil, (but do not stir), until it hardens, when dropped in cold water.
Then stir in a teaspoonful of soda, and pour on buttered tins ; when
cool, pull and cut in sticks.
334 CANDIES.
OR. Two cups sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, boil, when done,
add a teaspoon soda ; pour out, cool and pull, or cut in squares with-
out pulling ; do not stir while boiling.
MOLASSES CANDY, (French.) Two cups sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls
vinegar, i cup of molasses, a cupful of butter, do not stir, boil till it
hardens, then add a teaspoonful of soda, and pour in buttered tins.
Pull and cut as desired, in any form.
A GRANGER'S MARBLED CREAM CANDY. Six cups of fine white
sugar, 2 teacups of water, 2 of rich, sweet cream, 2 tablespoonfuls
(even) of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1-2 teaspoon of soda,
stirred in cream, 4 tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, extract of van-
illa to taste. Reserve 1-2 of the cream, the chocolate and vanilla ;
boil all the ingredients (besides) together very quickly, until it is
thick and ropy; then beat in another pan, the reserved cream, into
which you have rubbed the grated chocolale, after stewing till quite
thick; when the candy is done, add a cupful of it to this, while stir-
ring it thoroughly. Pour out upon broad and fiat dishes, the un-
colored syrup, then pour upon it here and there, large spoonfuls of the
chocolate mixture. So soon as you can bear it, pull it with the tips
of your fingers. If skillfully managed, it will be beautifully streaked
with white and dark color.
TAFFY. Add the grated rind of one lemon, to i Ib. sugar (loaf)
3 oz. of butter. Boil for 1-4 hour; pour into dishes slightly buttered.
Cut in strips with a buttered knife, but do not attempt to raise them
till cold. One pound of thin shelled almonds will yield 1-2 Ib. when
shelled; very thick shelled will require more.
To MAKE COCOA NUT CANDY. Let your cocoa nut be sweet
and fresh, rasp it finely. Spread on a sheet over a wide platter and
let it dry without artificial means; three days will do, to each pound
of nuts allow 1-4 Ib. of sugar or more, if desired. Boil the sugar,
when it begins to become very white, strew in the nut gradually, stir
and mix it well, until finished. To prevent it from burning, keep
the pan a little above the fire.
CHOCLATE CARAMELS. Take i pint of new milk; 1-4 Ib. of
chocolate, i Ib. of white sugar, boil this well together. Try this on
a buttered plate, as it will not crisp in water, and when done pour
on buttered pans and mark off in squares with a knife as it curls,
and then it will easily break when cold. They are very nice.
SILK THREAD OR SPUN SUGAR. Having boiled your sugar until
it cracks and does not adhere to the teeth in eating it, oil the handle
of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned out-
wards, dip them lightly into boiled sugar, take out and shake them
to and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon, forming
fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you have as much as you
CANDIES. 335
require, take it from the spoon and form it with your hands into
whatever may be directed for the finishing of any dish, not however,
too thick, or it would look heavy.
NOGAR. Take 1-2 Ib. of pounded sugar; put it in a stew pan
over a gentle fire without water ; and when a light brown, add as
many cut slices of dry almonds as will make it a thick paste ; turn it
out in a mould, or on a marble slab, well oiled, and flatten with a
rolling pin, and cut in square pieces. If the almonMs are browned a
little in the oven, before putting in the sugar, the Nogar will be the
better.
PUNCH DROPS. Put 3-4 Ib. of coarsely pounded sugar in a basin;
mix it to a stiff paste, with some rum and lemon juice. Put the
paste in a pastile sugar water, boil it, and make the drops as
described for strawberry drops.
PINE APPLE DROPS. Make the drops as for strawberry drops
mixing the sugar with pine apple instead of strawberry juice or
puree.
COCOANUT BALLS OR DROPS. One pound of grated sweet cocoa-
nut dried a few hours in the sun or a very moderate oven ; one
pound of loaf sugar, the whites of four well beaten eggs, drop on
paper any size that you may wish, and bake.
PINE APPLE BON BONS IN CASES. Boil and work the sugar, as
above; substitute some chopped preserved pine apple for the orange
flowers; and finish the bon bons in the same way.
ORANGE FLOWER BON BONS IN CORES. Boil 3-4 Ib. of sugar, let
it cool, and work it with the spatula until it becomes white; add i
oz. of candied orange flowers, fill some small paper vases with the
sugar; and put them in the hot cloth to dry.
To CRYSTALIZE POP CORN. Put into an iron kettle, i table
spoonful of butter, 3 table spoonfuls of water, and i teacupful of
white sugar, boil until ready to candy, then throw in 3 ears of corn
nicely popped, and stir briskly, until the candy is merely distributed
over the corn, remove the kettle off the fire, and stir till cooled a
little, and you have each grain seperate and crystalized with the
sugar, care should be taken that the vessel be perfectly clean and
not too hot a fire, lest you scorch the corn when crystaliz-
ing. Walnuts, almonds, or nuts of any kind prepared in this way
are delicious.
POP CORN BALLS. Use none but that is fully open, then place 2
pecks of the corn in a large dripping pan ; then in a proper sized
kettle, put i Ib. of nice sugar dissolved with a very little water, and
boil as you would candy, until it becomes a little stiff in cold water,
then take it from the fire, then pour into it a gill of thick gum arabic
water, made by melting gum arabic in boiling water, and standing all
336 TO CAN VEGETABLES, ETC.
night, then pour here and there a little of the mixture over the corn,
then with the hand or a stick, stir the corn until it thoroughly incu-
porated with the candy mixture, then the corn can be measured in a
cup and pressed together with the hands quickly, before it gets cold
and hard.
CANDY FIGS. Set over a slow fire in a pan, i Ib. of sugar in i
pint of water when done, add a few drops of vanilla, and a lump of
butter, and put info pans into which split figs are laid.
GINGER CANDY. Useful for flatulency and pain in the stomach.
To i pound of finely beaten loaf sugar add i ounce of finely pow-
dered ginger, put them both into a preserving pan with enough wa-
ter to dissolve the sugar. Stir the whole over a slow fire till the
sugar begins to boil, then put in another pound of finely beaten
sugar and stir it till it becomes thick ; remove it from the fire and
drop it upon earthen plates. Set them in a warm place to dry.
To IMPKOVE SUGAR AND INCREASE IT. To every 5 Ibs. of sugar
add i of flour.
TO CAN VEGETABLES, FRUITS, ETC.
To CAN TOMATOES AND OKRA FOR SOUP. Pour boiling water
over ripe, sound tomatoes, then remove the skins, put into a porce-
lain kettle to boil ; as the water rises dip part of it off, or it will re-
quire a long time to reduce the tomatoes so as to can ; boil until
almost ready for table use. In the meantime wash the okra, and
cut crosswise, and drop into boiling water, boil 1-2 hour, skim sev-
eral times, dip up with a perforated ladle and drop into the toma-
toes, and let all boil 1-2 hour, pour into cans and seal while hot.
Mrs. Martin.
To CAN FRUIT (Mrs. H.) The chief agent in the work of pres-
ervation is heat. After the application of heat after a certain length
of time (by which process the air is expelled), the article may be
sealed hermetrically and remain unchanged for an indefinite period.
The fruit and vegetables should be canned as soon as possible after
being gathered. How to know that the can is hermetrically sealed
and that its contents will keep: the contents, as soon as they cool ;
will shrink, leaving a vacuum, and the top and bottom of the can
will concave from the pressure of the external air. This shows that
the sealing is complete. Set the can in a warm place, and after 4
or 5 days the concave condition of the top and bottom remains is all
right.
SMALLER FRUITS. Such as raspberries, strawberries, blackberries,
thimbleberries, currants, &c., may also be done as follows : Pick and
wash the fruit carefully and weigh, allowing to each pound of fruit
TO CAN VEGETABLES, ETC. 337
1-2 pound of sugar or less. Put the fruit and sugar in alternate
layers in a vessel and allow them to stand i hour, then put them into
a preserving kettle and boil 10 minutes. Can and seal at once.
CANNED PINE APPLE. (Mrs. Bristol.) For 6 Ibs. of fruit, when
cut and ready to can, make syrup with 2 1-2 pounds sugar and nearly
3 pints of water, boil water 5 minutes and skim or strain, if neces-
sary, then add the fruit, and let it boil up ; have cans hot and fill
and close up as soon as possible. Use the best white sugar ; as the
cans cool keep tightening them up.
To CAN QUINCES. It is necessary that the fruit, after being pared
and cut in slices of uniform size, should be boiled in clear water till
slightly tender. In the water in which they were boiled (allowing a
tumblerful to a pound of sugar), dissolved sugar in the proportion
of 1-2 pound to a pound of fruit. As soon as the sugar is dissolved
and the syrup begins to boil, return the quinces to the kettle and
boil for 15 minutes. Can them while boiling hot and sealing imme-
diately. Pears and apples may be done in the same manner.
BOTTLED PLUMS. (Australian.) Gather the fruit when dry, put it
into stone jars, tie it down with bladders, and over the bladder tie a
paper to keep the bladder from drying. Put the jars to stand in a
very cool oven, for 24 hours longer, take off the paper and look at
the bladder, if it is not cracked, label and put away in a warm and
dry place ; if any of the bladders be cracked, put on a new one and
just make the plums hot through in the oven, so as to exhaust the
air. The oven throughout this process should be very much cooler
than even for a custard. These plums keep very well, and are more
like fresh fruit, than when done with sugar.
To BOTTLE PLUMS. (Mrs. E. P. Nottingham, Va.) Have your
bottles perfectly dry, and fill them with the fruit to within 2 inches of
the neck, stop the bottles slightly with paper, set them in a vessel of
cold water, and let them heat gradually until the water boils 10 or 15
minutes, then take the water off with the bottles in it, and let them
remain, until the water is perfectly cool, then have some corks, soaked
in boiling water, with which stop the bottles very tight, then dip the
corked part in melted rosin or sealing wax. Make a deep hole in
the earth in a shady, cool place or cellar, and cover them up. When
tarts are to be made, sweeten the fruit to fancy.
THE COLD PROCESS OF CANNING FRUIT. If peaches, pare arvl
halve them, pack them as closely as possible in a can without ; ,
sugar ; when the can is full pour in sufficient pure cold water t<
all the interscices between the peaches and to reach the rim <>! i.ic
can ; let it stand long enough in the water to soak into all thu crev-
ices, say 6 hours, then pour in water to replace what has been sunk
away. Seal up the can, and all is done. Canned in this way ^caches
338 SPICES AND CURRIES.
retain all their freshness and flavor. There will not be water enough
in them to render them insipid. If preferred, a cold syrup could be
used instead of pure water, but the peaches taste natural without any
sweetening.
SPICES.
SPICES. To have them good, one must have them prepared at
home. In ordinary cooking the following proportions are used :
Put into a clean paper bag, of a light straw color, 1-4 oz. of bay leaf,
1-4 oz. of thyme, 1-8 oz. of rosemary, 1-8 oz. of marjoram; put the
bag into a hot screen until the herbs are quite dry; mix in a mortar
with 1-2 oz. nutmeg, 1-2 oz. of cloves, 1-4 oz. of whole peppers, 1-8
oz. of Cayenne pepper; pound the whole, and pass through a hair
seive. Keep the mixed spices in a dry, well-corked bottle. These
spices are used either alone or with salt added. The proportion for
mixing with salt is i oz. of the mixture to 4 oz. of fine salt. In con-
formity to these proportions, a good seasoning will be secured. It
is very easy to perceive all the advantages of having such a mixture
prepared, together with the definite instructions as to the proper
quantity required for different seasonings. As an instance of the
employment of the mixture in practice, I will at once mention that i
oz. of the spiced salt just referred to, will be the quantity required to
season 3 Ibs. of force meat.
CONCENTRATED ESSENCE OF GINGER. Unbleached, well-bruised
Jamaica ginger 4 oz., rectified spirits of wine i pt.; digest for two
weeks, press and filter.
SPICES FOR SEASONING How TO PREPARE THEM. 2 oz. each of
cloves and white pepper grains, i oz. each of nutmeg, mace, sweet
basil, marjoram and thyme, 1-2 oz. of bay leaves; the herbs should
be dried in the shade, in a dry, airy place, the spices coarsely beaten,
then place these ingredients between sheets of vellum paper, folded
over them and tied up, so as to prevent the aroma of the ingredients
from escaping ; then place them in a stove, with a sheet of tin to
keep them from burning, dry gradually and perfectly, then crumble
them at once and run them through a sifter ; put in a bottle and
cork tightly.
CURRIES.
GRILLED CHICKEN WITH SHARP SAUCE. Prepare your chicken as
for grill, oil it slightly over, season with pepper and salt, in propor-
tion to size, then place it on a gridiron over rather a fierce fire ;
when nearly done, put by degrees 2 tablespoonfuls of Sultana sauce
over it, losing none of it; when done, have on a dish i oz. of butter;
pour over the butter another tablespoonful of sauce, mix well, and
ufter turning the chicken two or three times, serve it up.
CURRIES.
INDIAN CURRY POWDER. 1-4 lb. of coriander seed, 1-4 Ib. of
tamerice, 2 oz. cinnamon seed, 1-2 oz. Cayenne, i oz. mustard, i oz.
ground ginger, 1-2 oz. allspice, 2 qz. fenugreek seed. Put
all the ingredients in a cool oven, where 'they should remain over
night; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a seive and
mix thoroughly together. Keep the powder in a bottle, from which
the air should be completely excluded. This receipt is given, as
many persons prefer to make their curry powder at home, but that
purchased, is, generally speaking, far superior, and very frequently
more economical.
CURRIED BEEF. A fe\v slices of tolerably lean roasted, or boil-
ed beef, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 onions, i wineglassful of beer, i dessert
spoonful of currypowder ; cut the beef into pieces about 3 inches
square, put the butter in a stewpan with the sliced onions and fry
them of a light brown color , add all the ingredients and stir gently
over a brisk fire for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too
dry, more beer, or a spoonful or two of grog or water may be added,
but a good curry should not be thin. Place in a deep dish with an
edging of boiled rice, in the same manner for the curries. Cook 10
minutes. Seasonable at any time.
INDIAN MUSTARD. One quarter pound of the best mustard, 1-4
lb. of flour, 1-2 lb of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4
tablespoonsuls of catsup 1-2 bottle of andury sauce. Put the mus-~
tard, flour and salt into a basin and make into a stift paste with boil-
ing water Boil the shalots with the catsup, vinegar, and anchovy
sauce for 10 minutes, and pour the whole (boiling) over the mixture
in the basin. Stir well and reduce to a proper thickness, put into a
b> ttle, with a bruised shalot at the bottom, and store away for use.
This makes an excellent relish, and if properly prepared, will keep
for years.
A WET CURRY. Of whatever ingredient, cut it into small pieces ;
put them, with 2 or 3 onions, sliced, into a stew-pan, fry them till
brown. When done, add a tablespoonful of the curry-powder, and
some salt and simmer the whole gently with a little water or broth,
until sufficiently cooked. Stir constantly.
To MAKE A CURRY OF LOBSTERS. Having taken the edible sub-
stance from the shells, lay it in a pan, with a little mace, 3 spoonfuls
of veal gravy, and 4 of cream, rub smooth i or 2 teaspoonfuls of
curry-powder, i of flour, and i oz. of butter, simmer, these together
for an hour; squeeze therein the juice of 1-2 lemon and add some
salt. Prawns may be used instead of lobsters. Add rice, as
usual.
CURRIED MUTTON. The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2
onions, 1-4 lb. ofbutter, i dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, salt to
340 CURRIES.
taste, 1-4 pint of stock or water. Slice the onions in thin rings, and
put them into a stew-pan with the butter and fry of alight brown,
stir in the curry-powder, flour and salt, and mix all well together ; cut
the meat in thin slices, (if there is not enough to do this, it may be
minced) and add it to the other ingredients ; when well browned add
the stock or gravy, and stew gently for 1-2 an hour. Serve in a dish
with a border of boiled rice, the same as for other curries. Cook
1-2 hour.
CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN. The remains of cold roast fowls, 2
onions, i apple, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessert-spoonful of curry-powder,
i teaspoonful of flour, 1-2 pint of gravy, i tablespoonful of lemon
juice. Skin the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut the
fowl into neat joints ; fry these in the butter, of a light brown, then
add the currypowder, flour and gravy, and stew for about 20 minutes.
Put in the lemon juice, and serve with boiled rice, either placed in a
ledge round the dish, or separately. 2 or 3 shalots or a little garlic
may be added, if approved. Altogether, cook 1-2 hour.
CURRY. Slice 6 onions, i green apple, and a clove of garlic ;
stew them in a little good beef, mutton or fowl broth, until they will
pulp, then add one teaspoonful of currypowder, a few tablespoonfuls
of the broth, a little salt and a few cayenne peppers, a pinch of each.
Stir in this gravy any kind of meat, cut into small pieces, adding a
piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in butter.
CURRY SAUCE. This recipe is from Captain White, who resided
for 20 years in the East Indies. Take 2 good sized apples and 4
large onions, and 4 ozs. each of sweet butter and lean ham. Slice
the apples and onions and put them all into a stewpan,with a blade
of mace, 2 sprigs of thyme, 4 pepper corns, and 2 bay leaves. Stir
over the fire, until the onions become brown and tender, then add 2
tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, i of vinegar, 2 of flour, a
teaspoonful of salt, i of sugar. Moisten it with a little broth, milk,
cream or water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil till in a mass
and sticking to the back of the spoon, strain it and boil again for a
few minutes ; put it in a covered jar. In the winter it will keep for
months. A spoonful of this may be used instead of curry powder
for currying meat, fowl, fish, game, or for rewarming it in this sauce.
Eaten with well boiled and dry rice. This sauce should be boiled
over now and then.
CURRY, (Contributed by Miss Lillie B. Happer, Canton, China.
Take one onion, some garlic, some red pepper, and chop very fine,
put in a skillet and fry till brown, then stir in some curry powder to
taste, and add boiling water till you think it is thin enough, then put
in whatever meat you choose, chicken, fish or mutton, all cut up,
add butter if you like, and boil a short time. Serve hot with rice.
COFFEE.
TEA CHOCOLATE.
34 1
LEMON IN TEA (Spanish.) Put a very thin slice of lemon on
top of the sugar in the cup, then pour the tea over ; no cream is
used.
TEA How TO MAKE IT. To prevent sleep and yet not feel lan-
guid. To weak, green tea add a little brandy, sugar and lemon
juice.
A NEW WAY TO MAKE TEA. Put the tea in the pot and let them
both become hot by degrees, then pour over the boiling water and
let it stand for 5 or 6 minutes in a hot place.
NOTE The leaves and pot should heat for 10 or 15 minutes.
THE English make the best tea.
GOOD black tea is generally admitted to be the most beneficial
and the least prejudicial, but most persons prefer it with a mixture
of the green in equal parts.- Green alone is certainly injurious.
CHOCOLATE--HOW TO MAKE. One-half pound of ground choco-
late, a little each of cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla, 3 cups of water.
4 cups of milk ; first boil the grated chocolate, the spices and water
together, then add the milk, stirring well all the time, then set it on
the fire or hot ashes to boil for 3-4 of an hour ; sweeten to taste. If
sweet or spiced chocolate be used, use but little sugar or spice.
CHOCOLATE MILK. Dissolve i large spoonful of chocolate in 2 1-2
cups of milk, new and sweet.
CHOCOLATE should not be made until the moment it is wanted,
because heating injures the flavor, destroys the froth and separates
the body of the chocolate, the oil rising to the top after a short boil-
ing, or remaining long by the fire, which is the principal, if not the
only cause why chocolate disagrees with delicate stomachs. Ifrightly
prepared it is both nutritive and wholesome.
COFFEE.
SPANISH OR ST. DOMINGO WAV TO MAKE COFFEE. Put the de-
sired quantity of coffee in a flannel bag, and then pour over boiling
water, but do not let it come to a boil, but shake the pot of boiling
fluid well, pouring it back and forth, then pour out and serve in small
cups without cream or sugar ; it is delightful. This is the way the
Spanish residents make coffee on Island of St. Domingo.
NOTE The coffee is always beaten in a mortar, which causes it
to retain the greater portion of its aroma. A hundred cups of coffee
can be made in this way at once, and can be kept hot without boil-
ing.
342 COFFEE.
COFFEE How TO MAKE IT. Put 2 ounces of ground or beaten
coffee into a stew pan, then set it upon the fire, and with an iron
spoon stir the powder well till quite hot, then pour over it 2 cups of
boiling water, then put the cover on for 5 minutes ; strain it through
a cloth and put in a pot, and rewarm it and serve.
COFFEE, TO MAKE IN THE OLD STYLE. One teacupful of ground
coffee, moisten with the white of an egg and cold water stirred well
together, pour on boiling water, set it on the stove and let it boil
up 3 times, stir it down twice with a spoon, but the third time pour
in 1-2 cup of cold water, let stand 2 or 3 minutes and serve boiling
hot. It is elegant.
COFFEE A NEW WAY TO MAKE WHEN IN A HURRY. Put 2 table-
spoonfuls of coffee into a sauce pan, then put it on the fire, then stir
it with an iron spoon until it becomes quite hot, then pour over it a
pint of boiling water, then put the top on and boil for 4 or 5 minutes,
then strain and re-warm it and serve. Sugar and cream or milk can
be added to taste.
To AVOID COFFEF, LOSING ITS STRENGTH When the roasting is
completed, while hot, put 1-2 ounce of white or brown sugar to i Ib.
of coffee ; the sugar melts immediately ; by well shaking or turning
the roaster quickly it spreads all over the berries and gives each one
a fine glaze. It then has a shining appearance as if covered
with varnish, and has no smell, which returns when ground in a high
degree. When roasted the grains should be opened, if heaped to-
gether it causes them to sweat and lose their strength.
ARABIAN MANNER OF SETTLING COFFEE. Dip a cloth in cold wa-
ter and wrap it around the hot coffee pot, and it will clear rapidly.
To PRESERVE GROUND COFFEE. Wet ground coffee i Ib. with 3
oz. of sugar, or thoroughly in cold water, then spread it oul in the
open air to dry. The sugar locks up all the volatile parts, so that
when it dries, it does not escape. It will keep a month in this way
if exposed to the air.
How TO MAKE IT, THUS PRESERVED. Pour cold water over the
powder, and boil it. It makes as good a beverage, as if just roasted.
TO MAKE COFFKE AS USED BY BONAPARTE. Put the ground Cof-
fee into a vessel with a strainer, and pour the water on it perfect-
ly cold, plunge this vesel into another, filled with boiling water, which
must be kept at the boiling point until the process is completed.
This method is thought to preserve the flavor of the coffee perfectly.
To ROAST COFFEE. (A French recipe.) It is acknowledged that
the French coffee is decidedly superior to any other, and as the
roasting of the berry is of great importance to the flavor of the pre-
paration, it will be useful and interesting to know how they manage
these things in France. In Paris there are two houses, justly cele-
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 343
brated for the flavor of their coffee. La Maison Circdett and La
Maison Soger de Chartres, and to obtain this flavor before roast-
ing they add to every 3 Ibs, of coffee a piece of butter the size of a
nut, and a dessert spoonful of powdered sugar ; it is then roasted
in the usual manner. The addition of the butter and sugar devel-
ope the flavor and aroma of the berry : it must be borne in mind,
that the quality of the butter must be of the very best description.
COFFEE, TURKISH FASHION. When the water has just come to
boil, add the coffee and sugar ; mix well, as above, and give just a
boil and serve. The grounds of coffee will in a few seconds fall to
the bottom of the cups. The Turks wisely leave it there; and I would
advise every one to do the same.
CAFE AH LAIT. This is merely very strong coffee, added to a large
proportion of good hot milk, about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee
being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence
which answers admirably for Cafe au Lait, so much would not be
required. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak, watery
coffee so often served at tables. A little cream, mixed with the
milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves the
taste of the coffee, so also the richness of the beverage. Six table-
spoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of the essence, to a
breakfast-cupful of milk.
THE ORDINARY ENGLISH METHOD. The coffee and water are
put into the pot at the same time, and boiled for 10 minutes ; a cup-
ful is then turned off and returned to the pot, and allowed to stand
5 minutes, when it will, or ought to become clear.
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
CAROLINA ROLLS D. C. Take 1-2 pint of yeast, i quart of
water, warm sweet milk and flour enough to make a light sponge;
next morning add 1-2 pint of cold water and 1-2 Ib. of butter ;
stir it well and add flour enough to make it tolerably stiff, let it stand
i hour and bake in a hot oven after making it into small cakes.
BREAKFAST ROLLS Stella. Two quarts of flour, i tablespoon-
ful even ot sugar and butter, 1-2 cup of yeast, i pint of scalded
milk or warm water ; if milk is scarce, a little salt. Set to rise until
light, then knead until hard, and set to rise, and when wanted make
into rolls, then oil each roll with sweet butter or lard and and set
them rather upright and close together in the oven, and in the cen-
tre place 3 long rolls ; set to rise and bake in a slow oven.
YEAST ROLLS. For this kind of roll take the same dough as for
steam nudels ; it is best to fill them with boiled fruit. After the
dough has risen roll it as thin as possible, then the fruit spread
344 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
upon it, rolled up, put into a buttered pan and placed in a warm
spot to rise. Some melted butter is again spread over it, then
bake it slowly in an oven until of a light brown color, the yeast
rolls can be sent to the table warm or cold.
GOLDEN GATE ROLLS. One pound of flour and i pound of but-
ter worked together with egg, i gill of yeast and as much luke-
warm water as will make a soft dough ; cover it with flour and
put it to rise until light ; flour your board and make into small
rolls and bake in a quick oven. These are very nice for tea with
invited company.
DIXIE CORN CAKE. (Mrs. Miller, Santa Clara, Cal.) One coffee
cupful of grits (fine hominy) boiled soft, an equal quantity of
white corn meal stirred into the grits while hot, when sufficiently
cool stir in briskly 5 well beaten eggs, 1-2 cup of sweet milk and 4
tablespoonfuls of melted butter ; salt to taste ; bake in a deep but-
tered dish or pan.
CORN BATTER CAKES. 4 cups of boiling water or boiling milk
mixed with 2 cups of meal ; when warm work in 4 tablespoonfuls of
flour, 3 eggs and i teaspoonful of salt. Bake on a griddle.
SAMP OR HOMINY CAKES. Take i pint of small hominy that
is cooked soft, mix with i pint of wheat flour, i teaspoonful of salt
and a little milk mixed with or without eggs ; fry them on a griddle
and eat as buckwheat cakes.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES (Mrs. B.) i pint warmed milk, into which
stir in a tearup of buckwheat flour, 2 tablespoons of yeast, some
salt, 2 well beaten eggs ; let rise, and when light, bake. Or you
may take 2 cups of wheat flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of white
corn meal, and mix with tepid water until it is a thick batter; add
a tablespoonful of yeast and set it to rise an hour, pour in a
little milk until of the consistency of waffle batter and let it stand
2 hours in a warm place. Do not grease the griddle but once ;
serve with melted butter in a boat.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES. Newfield, N. Y., recipe (Mrs. L. M. Kel-
logg-) Fi rst m ' x the flour and water with a little white corn meal,
a little yeast, hard (leaven) or soft to raise it, set it all night in a
moderately warm place next morning, thin it to suit with butter
or sour milk, adding some salt. Grease your griddle well while
hot with salt pork or the cakes will stick to it ; put on your bat-
ter and fry. Serve very hot" with butter or molasses at table.
The authoress has often eaten Mrs. Kellog's superior buckwheat
cakes, and trusts that enterprising farmers will introduce the supe-
rior buckwheat and let it form one of the staples of the whole
Union.
MY AUNT'S GRIDDLE CAKES. Two cupfuls of sour milk, 1-2 cup-
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 345
ful of molasses or 2 spoonfuls of brown sugar, a teaspoonful of soda,
a heaping cupful of flour and Indian meal to make a stiff batter.
Add a little salt and fry on a well greased clean griddle.
FILLED MILK ROLLS. Rub off the crust of 4 milk rolls on a grater,
make incisions about the width of a finger apart into -each, nearly
through, take care not to cut entirely through. Fill these incisions with
the following ingredients: Almonds shelled cut lengthwise; well picked
and washed currants and raisins in equal quantities, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of citron cut into little dice, a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel,
the same of ground cinnamon and 3 tablespoonfuls ot fine sugar,
all of which is to be well mixed. Now after the incisions are filled
tie them around with a piece of twine and let them soak in eight
whole eggs, which have been beaten up well with the 3 pints of cold
milk and a little salt, then put them into a colander to drain off.
Fry them on all sides to a nice gold yellow color. Let them stand
for a few minutes upon blotting paper, then take off the twine,
turn them in sugar, dish them with some appropriate sauce and
serve.
ROLLS, GRAHAM, FOR BREAKFAST. Rub through a colander 2 Ibs.
of soft boiled Irish potatoes, then add 2 cups of water, 1-2 cup of
sugar, a heaped teaspoonful of salt, 1-2 cupful of hop yeast, then
stir it with Graham flour, making a stiff dough. Set it to rise over
night ; in the morning make it into small cakes. Set to rise, and
when light, bake. Graham flour should never be sifted.
MUTTON CHOPS. Mrs. T. B. L. Trim the chops, beat them well,
chop to mincemeat, taking care not to separate the meat from
the bone, chop both sides and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Have
ready some bread crumbs and 2 well beaten eggs, dip the chops
first into the eggs, then into the crumbs, put into the frying pan 2
ounces of butter; when it browns put in the chops, fry slowly and
never turn them till they look firm and the gravy comes up. Turn
them and brown them on the other side, which takes from 5 to 10
minutes. When they feel solid they are done. Brown sauce fla-
vored with chopped onion and parsley, a dessert spoonful of flour
browned stirred in an ounce of butter
ARTIFICIAL OYSTERS. Grate green corn in a dish; to 2 cups of
this add i egg well beaten, a small teacup of flour, i teacup of but-
ter or less, some salt and pepper; mix them well together. A table-
spoonful of the batter will make the size of the oyster. Fry them a
light brown, and when done butter them ; cream is better than
butter.
MUSHROOMS TO COOK. i cupful of water; cook 11-2 hours ; 2
tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and pepper to taste. Stir with a silver
spoon in a porcelain kettle.
346 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
RELISH FOR BREAKFAST OR LUNCH. Take 1-4 pound of good
fresh cheese, cut it up into thin slices and put it in a spider, turning
over it a large cupful of sweet milk; add a large pinch of dry mus-
tard, a dash of pepper, a little salt and a piece of butter as large as
a guinea's egg ; stir the mixture all the time ; powder or roll 3 soda
crackers, sprinkle them in gradually ; as soon as they are stirred in
turn the contents into a warm dish and serve.
A NICE BREAKFAST DISH. Take some stale bread, cut in slices,
make a batter of eggs, little sugar, 1-2 cup of milk, a pinch of cin-
namon ; dip the bread well in the batter, then fry in a pan with
plenty of butter. When well done strew over with fine sugar.
GREEN TOMATOES FRIED. Wash and slice tomatoes very thin
and drop them in the coldest water you have, let remain i hour,
then salt and pepper them, drop in pancake batter and fry in boil-
ing lard of a nice brown. Serve hot.
ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Rub salt and
pepper over the beef, put it in a dripping-pan, cover the bot-
tom with water, with the drippings bas.te the meat often and turn
the meat and baste as before ; 3-4 hour before it is done take out
the meat and pour off most of the dripping, and put in the butter
and the meat and finish roasting ; add some hot water to the drip-
ping and thicken with flour the gravy.
To BOIL A STUFFED TURKEY. Take a young turkey weighing 7
or 8 pounds, with bread, butter, salt, pepper and mixed parsley ;
skewer up the legs and wings as if to roast, flour a cloth and pin
around it ; boil 4 minutes, then set off the kettle and let it stand
close covered 1-2 hour or more. The steam will cook it sufficiently.
To be eaten with drawn butter and stewed oysters.
MILK OR CREAM GRAVY FOR BAKED POTATOES. i quart of milk,
3 tablespoonfuls of corn starch made into a smooth batter with rich
milk or cream. Boil the milk and pour in the batter, stirring all the
while. Let it boil 2 or 3 minutes, remove from the fire and stir in
immediately a well beaten egg. Very nice ; excellent for lunch or
breakfast.
IRISH STEW. Put into a proper sized stew pan 2 1-4 Ibs. of neck
of mutton or lamb, or any part, cut into small pieces with some of
the fat pieces cut small, put in a dessertspoonful of salt, a good pinch
each of pepper and sugar, 5 or six medium sized onions, 2 pints of
water; boil, and then simmer for 30 minutes, then add 6 medium -
sized Irish potatoes, which cut in 2 or 4 pieces, stir well, then boil
for a full hour very gently. You can skim off the grease, but the
potatoes will absorb that. It is an appetizing dish. Try it.
FRIED SAUSAOES WIIH SPINACH OR OTHER VEGETABLES. Fry the
sausages or meat a nice brown, press the nicely boiled spinach or cab-
BREAKFAST, T.UNCH AND TEA. 347
bage to free it from water, chop fine and lay it in a steak dish,
lay the sausages upon the top, put a little hot vinegar to the gravy
in the pan and pour over it ; or mashed potatoes, stewed pumpkin,
or boiled hominy may do in the place of spinach. For dinner and
breakfast.
WAFFLES Mrs. R. To i quart of flour add an egg and a spoon-
ful of yeast, make these to a thin batter with milk, then put in 2 ozs.
of butter and set to rise. It is better to make the batter early in
the morning or over night.
WAFFLE SAUCE Scald 2 cups of new milk or sweet cream, and
while taking from the fire stir 2 teaspoonfuls of butter, a teaspoon-
ful of salt into it. When melted serve up with the waffles,
WAFFLES Mrs. R. S. Robinson, San Fransisco, Cal. Beat well
the whites and yolks of 2 or 3 eggs separately, then have ready some
sour milk that has been turned on the stove or near the fire, then
stir to it a very little soda, a little salt, the yolks of the eggs, then
stir in flour enough to make a moderately stiff batter. Have your
irons clean, well greased and hot, pour in the batter ; as you take
the waffles out butter them well and keep hot in the stove until
served.
NOTE The whites beaten to a solid foam should be added a por-
tion at a time and stirred in the batter as you make the waffles. If
you have but little milk, mix water with it, or use water altogether.
Bacon grease is better than lard to fry waffles with.
AMERICAN RAISED WAFFLES. One pint of sweet milk, i heaping
teaspoonful of thick brewer's yeast, i quart of flour, another tea-
spoonful of sweet milk, in which dissolve 1-4 teaspoonful of soda.
Let it rise until light, then bake as other waffles. Serve with butter
and sugar.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES. Put into 1-2 gallon pitcher 3 cups of luke-
warm water, to this add 1-2 cupful of baker's yeast with a little salt,
then stir in enough fresh buckwheat to make a thick batter ; cover
the pitcher after beating the batter thoroughly, and set it to rise over
night. Next morning stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of molasses, then dis-
solve 1-4 teaspoonful of soda in 3 tablespoonfuls of milk. Beat the
whole well together and pour the batter from the pitcher upon a well
greased and heated griddle.
CREAM COOKIES, Take 1-2 pint of cream, i pound of sugar and
i egg, beat them together, then add 1-2 cupful of sour milk, 1-2
teaspoonful of soda, and flour enough to roll; roll out thin, cut them
out with a cake-cutter, moisten them on the top with a little cold
water, sift over them a little white granulated sugar in which has
been grated some nutmeg. Bake in a quick oven.
348 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
A CREOLE LADY'S BRF.AKFAST. (Excellent for digestion.) A fig
with a cup of coffee.
FJ. BATING ISLAM i >s. (A colonial recipe.) Six eggs, whites and
yolks beaten separately, add to the yolks i 1-2 pints or more of rich
new milk, a cup of loaf sugar, nutmeg or lemon to taste; heat al-
most to a boiling point, or until it thickens, dish and spread the
whites of eggs, beaten to a solid froth, over; and serve hot or cold.
APPLES IN BATTER. Take several medium sized apples, pare and
core them, place them in a dish, make a rich batter and pour over
them. Bake for one hour ; serve with wine sauce.
COCOANUT BISCUITS. Add the same weight of sugar of 4 grated
cocoanuts, together with enough whites of eggs to form a softish but
thick paste, beat with a w toden spoon till smooth, then lay the mix-
ture upon wafer paper in small drops or biscuits and bake in a slow
oven.
BEATEN BISCUITS. (Mrs. E. A. Watson.) Two quarts of flour, 2
heaping tablespoonfuls of sweet, pure lard ; mix with cold water, till
the dough is very stiff. Beat the dough till it blisters.
BEATEN BISCUITS, (Another way.) Three and a halfpints of flour
2 tablespoonfuls of lard, 1-2 pint of milk, 1-2 pint of hot water, i
teaspoonful of salt, the yolk of an egg ; keep out one pint of flour,
and when the other is mixed up into a stiff dough, then, as you beat
the dough, sprinkle in the dry flour. Beat hard with the broad end
of an ax, a rolling pin, or mallet for 1-2 hour, or until the dough be-
comes white and smooth.
WALA WALA BISCUITS FOR BREAKFAST. (A Housekeeper.) Make
a batter of milk and flour, the richer the milk the better, cream pre-
ferable, but water will do, keep it warm until it rises, make your
dough up entirely with this, pouring it upon the flour, add salt, sal-
eratus or soda in the yeast, according to the sourness of the yeast and
the quantity of the flour, which should not be added too fast ; work
the dough thoroughly, add some butter or lard, make your biscuits
out and bake in a well greased skillet or oven. To raise the biscuit,
someplace them for 1-2 an hour over the top of a teakettle, which
causes them to rise better, before baking. Should be buttered and
eaten while hot, or they are not so good. W. T.
APPLE CHARLOTTE. This excellent and healthy dish is seldom
seen, but it has only to be tried once to learn its excellence. The
recipe is very simple. Put in a tolerably small bread pan a piece of
butter the size of a walnut, and set it where it will melt, then pare,
quarter and core a few apples, halve the quarters, if they are large,
make them into thirds ; now place in the buttered pan as many
slices or pieces of bread as will cover the bottom, then a la^fer of ap-
ples, a little sugar, and 4 or 5 little chips of butter ; another layer of
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 349
bread, another layer of apples, and so on until it is enough for dinner,
or until the pan is full; butter the upper layer of bread. Bake in a
slow oven. If the oven is too hot and browns the top too fast before
the center bakes, with a spoon drip a little hot water over it. Serve
hot, with or without sauce.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Mrs. Barringer.) One pint of milk, 12 eggs,
1-2 pound of sugar, i pint of rich cream, and i pint of jelly. Make
a custard of the milk, eggs, sugar, and flavor with lemon or vanilla.
Dissolve the jelly, and add it to the custard, and stir the whole till it
is cold, and about as thick as the thickest molasses, then beat in the
cream, which has been previously whipped, and pour into moulds
lined with sponge cake. If the weather is warm, set it on the ice,
and let it remain for nearly an hour and turn out in a china dish.
Ice the whole with icing prepared as for cake, and when it is dry,
put some icing in a paper horn and run over it in a fanciful form;
set in a refrigerator until wanted. Omit the icing if you choose. In-
stead of a mould, you may take a large, round sponge cake, turn it
bottom upwards, and cut off a slice an inch thick, then remove the
whole of the inside, leaving a shell an inch thick. Pour the mixture
in this, put on the bottom slice and set on ice.
To CURRY EGGS. (Mrs. Medhurst of Calcutta.) 12 eggs, i gill of
sweet cream or new milk. 2 cups of broth (chicken or any kind of
meat broth), a tablespoonful of curry powder, and enough arrow root
or corn starch to thicken, (or rice flour). Then slice a large onion
and fry it brown in butter; then stir in the curry powder and broth,
till well mixed, set on the fire and simmer slowly till the onions are
soft and tender, then stir together the arrow-root, corn starch or rice
flour, till a smooth paste is formed, and stir this in the cream and let
it boil slowly for a few minutes, then have your eggs boiled hard and
cut into 2 or 4 pieces ; then heat them in the curry mixture thorough-
ly, but by no means let them come to boiling heat, then place them
on a hot dish, with the cut sides downwards, in a neat manner, then
pour the sauce over them. Cook 25 minutes. Delicious.
WAFERS, MY AUNT'S WAY TO MAKE THEM, Mix 4 oz. of melted,
fresh and sweet butter with a cupful of flour.
WINE WAFERS. (Mrs. N.) One pound of flour, 1-4 Ib. of butter,
a well beaten egg, a large wineglass of wine, and 1-2 of a nutmeg.
Bake in wafer irons, a light brown, and roll up as a scroll while hot.
MACAROONS. One-half pound of blanched and pounded almonds,
the white of i egg, spoonful of orange flower water and 12 ozs.
sugar; pound these together till the sugar is dissolved, and then
a^d the beaten white of another egg and a very little flour sprink-
led in ; drop on buttered paper, bake on tins in a quick oven for
1-4 hour till of a full brown color.
350 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
SUGAR GINGKR BREAD. One cup of sugar, i cup of milk, i
piece of butter 1-2 the size of a hen's egg, i scant teaspoonful
of saleratus, and flour enough to make it stiff as molasses ginger
bread. Flavor with lemon or nutmeg.
SOFT MOLASSES CAKES Mrs, Webster's. One quart molasses,
3 eggs, i pint buttermilk, 1-2 pint lard, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls
of soda dissolved in the milk ; cinnamon and ginger to taste. Flour
to make a dough by working it.
CAKKS, GINGER A plantation recipe. With 2 pounds of flour,
i-rjf. pound powdered sugar, i pound sugar, 1-2 pound butter, 2 cups
of water, 8 pieces of candied lemon peel grated; make a paste, then
form into cakes, and before baking prick them with a straw or
fork.
GINGER BREAD. One cup of molasses, 1-2 cup of butter, i egg,
i cup of water, i teaspoonful of soda, i of ginger; flour enough to
make a thick batter.
GINGER SNAPS. One and 1-2 pints molasses, i pint of lard or
butter. 4 tablespoonfuls ginger, tablespoonfuls cream tartar, 2 of
soda, 2 cups sugar.
SWEET POTATO BUNS. Boil sweet potatoes soft, peel and mash
them while hot in flour like bread, add spice and sugar with yeast ;
when well risen work in butter and make the dough up in small rolls
and bake. You can use any quantity, according to judgment. One
quart of flour, i coffeecup of potatoes, i tablespoonful of sugar and
6 grains of allspice with a dessertspoonful of butter is a good rule
for a small family.
BUNS MADE BY OUR MOTHER. Flour, 2 1-2 Ibs. ; butter, 6ozs. ;
sugar, 1-2 Ib. ; a little salt, pulverized ginger, cinnamon and cara-
way; 1-2 cup of yeast and sufficient warm milk to form a paste,
then brush them over with warm milk and bake them a fine brown
in a tolerably slow oven.
BUNS. Two cups each of milk and sugar, i cup each of yeast
and lard ; lay three pieces of the dough 3 inches square together
with molasses and a few carrouts; bake a light brown.
QUICK DOUGHNUTS. Four eggs, 2 cups of sugar, i cup of but-
ter, a tumblerful of sour milk or cream, i teaspoonful of nutmeg,
1-2 of cinnamon, i teaspoonful soda dissolved in hot water, flour to
roll out in smooth dough ; cut into shapes and fry in hot lard.
MUFFINS Mrs. L. One quart of milk, 2 eggs, i large table-
spoonful of butter warmed with the milk, flour enough to make a
batter thick enough to drop from a spoon, i teaspoonful of salt, i
pennyworth of baker's yeast, or i teacupful of homemade yeast ;
set to rise, and when very light bake in rings on a griddle.
MUFFINS. One pint of flour, 2 eggs, i tablespoonful of butter, a
tablespoonfuls of yeast. Milk enough to mix.
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 351
MUFFINS Mrs. J. D. Thornton. Take a quart of milk and melt
a lump of butter the size of an egg into a part of it, beat 3 or 4
eggs very light and add them to the milk and melted butter, beat-
ing in enough flour to make a tolerably stiff batter very hard and add
i tablespoonful of brewer's yeast or a teacupful of homemade yeast ;
set the dough to rise 4 hours before using.
WATER OAT CAKE. Bake the bread made of oat meal and water
to a nice dark brown and dry, put this into water, and it will allay
vomitting.
FLANNEL CAKES Mrs. J. D. Thornton. One quart of milk, 2
eggs, 1-2 cupful of homemade yeast, a little salt; make a thick
batter.
FLANNEL CAKES An "Old Dominion" recipe. Mrs. Sturgis, N.
Y. Four cups of flour, 2 cups of milk, the yolk of i beaten egg ;
mix all together and beat well, then stir in a large spoonful each of
salt, yeast and sweet butter, over night. The next morning bake
for breakfast, and butter as you take them off the griddle.
COCOA, How TO MAKE. It is better to buy the beans in a small
quantity, then roast and grind or pound them in a mortor as you
would coffee, make as chocolate, allowing 2 heaped tablespoonfuls
to 2 or more cups of boiling water. Boil i 1-2 hours, then stir
in 4 cups of fresh sweet milk ; let it come to a boil, pour out and
serve very hot.
COFFEE AND TEAPOTS. While the coffee is boiling and the tea
steeping the spouts of both the coffee and teapots should be stopped
with a cork or a plug of paper to prevent the strength from escap-
ing. I have seen a cork confined with a piece of twine to the han-
dle, to be always ready for use.
SUMMER SNOW (beautiful.) In a coffeecup of cold water soak
the proper quantity of the best gelatine, 2 cups of powdered sugar ;
juice and peel of i lemon, 1-2 ordinary sized pineapple chopped
into small pieces, i pint of boiling water, i gill best brandy, 2 gills
best sherry or white wine, a pinch of nutmeg, the whites of 5 eggs
whipped to a solid froth ; mix all the ingredients into the soaked gel-
atine, and let them remain for 2 hours ; wheri you have bruised the
fruit well with a spoon or in wooden mortar and mixed all thoroughly,
at the end of the time pour over the compound the 2 cups of boil-
ing water, and continue to stir until the gelatine is thoroughly dis-
solved. Strain through a strong flannel or net bag, squeezing and
pressing hard. When nearly cold put in the wine and brandy, and
cover till cold. Then by degrees whip it into the beaten whites ; no
matter in what way beaten, if it be continued for thirty minutes or
more. Wet the mould with cold water, then pour in the snow mix-
ture and bury it in ice to "jeal." A dish as delicious as refreshing.
352 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
N. B. A few peach kernels blanched in boiling water to remove
the skin, broken and boiled with any kind of jelly, marmalade, sauce,
pudding, preserves; any kind of fruit, and even cake will improve
the flavor.
WHITE HONEY CAKES. Stir until frothy 1-4 pound of sugar, the
yolks of 15 eggs and a whole egg ; mix with it 1-2 ounce of citron,
the same of orange peel; cut into small dice; 1-2 ounce of cinna-
mon (powdered), the same of powdered cloves, the grated peel of
a lemon, 1-2 pound of peeled almonds cut into small dice; finally
add to the mass the whites of 15 eggs beaten to stiff froth and 1-4
pound of sifted flour ; spread it smoothly as thick as your finger
over oblong wafers as long and as wide as your hand. Ornament
them on the top with small pieces of lemon peel the thickness of
the back of a knife, put them on a baking plate and bake them in
an oven that has been allowed to cool. Bake slowly till of a bright
yellow.
SALLY LUNN Mrs. Jeanson. i large cup of flour, 3 heaped tea-
spoonfuls yeast powder, a teaspoonful of sugar ; mix these, drop
in 3 whole eggs well beaten, with enough to form a thick paste.
Butter a pan, put in the paste, not thin enough to run, stick bits
of butter here and there all over the top of the dough ; bake in
a quick oven. Nice for lunch, breakfast and tea.
SALLY LUNN Mrs. R. 3 pints flour, 6 eggs, 4 ounces butter,
i t-2 pint of yeast, i pint of sweet milk; beat all these ingredients
together, pour into a buttered mould in which it is to be baked and
let it stand over night, if you wish it for breakfast.
SALLY LUNN. One' yeast cake i cup of butter, 3 eggs, milk and
flour to make stiff batter. Make up in the morning and set to rise
for tea; sugar and spice added, if desirable. Bake in thin pie
pans.
SWEET RUSKS. Make a batter of i pint of milk, i pint of flour,
2-3 cup of sugar ; after rising add 2 eggs, i cup sugar, 6 ounces of
butter or lard, 1-2 teaspoonful of salaratus.
COOKING WITHOUT EGGS. i cup each of sugar and cold water,
1-2 cup of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar, i table-
spoonful of saleratus ; spice to taste, flour to make a dough ; roll out
ihin ; cut in any shape.
JOHNNY CAKE. Add to a cup of sour milk i well beaten egg, i
cup of sweet milk, i teaspoonful of soda, from i to 3 tablespoonfuls
of molasses ; salt., corn meal and stir quite soft.
GOOD CORN BREAD. One pint of sweet milk, i egg, i tablespoon-
ful of lard, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder (Brown's or Pierce's is
the best), i tablespoonful of sugar, enough white cornmealto make
a moderately thick batter ; just before baking add the lard boiling
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 353
hot, stir it well and bake immediately in a quick oven. This is equally
nice made with sour milk.
FRIED BREAD M. A. T. Take a tablespoonful of sweet, light
dough, dissolve in a cup of sweet milk, add 3 or 4 eggs, i 1-2 cups
flour, i teaspoonful salt ; cut some thin slices of light bread, dip this
in the batter and fry in hot lard ; sprinkle with powdered sugar and
garnish with jelly.
CAROLINA BREAD. Dip slices of light bread into new milk, then
dip them into 2 well beaten eggs, and fry them in hot lard ; dish
them and pour over them any kind of syrup and serve hot.
SNOW CAKES. Put corn meal into a good sized wood or earthen
bowl with sugar and salt to taste, then add 3 times its bulk of snow,
and stir it together with a spoon ; when well mixed it looks like so
much dry meal or snow. Fry a little on a hot griddle ; if it cooks
too dry to turn well, add more snow; if too wet to be light, add
more meal ; when just right, fry on the griddle in convenient-sized
cakes, and they will be as light as corn bread.
CORN CAKES. Sweet milk, i or 2 eggs, salt, about 1-3 of flour to
2 of fresh, sweet corn meal, a little lard, no yeast powder; fry quickly
on a hot griddle.
JOLLY BOY Brayton. i quart of new white corn meal, scald and
cool, i pint of flour, 2 eggs, i teaspoon soda, 2 of cream tartar, a
little sweet milk ; make as thick batter as for pancake aud fry in hot
lard. Nice for breakfast.
ANCIENT RECIPE FOR THE ATHENIAN NATIONAL DISH. Dry near
the fire in an oven 20 pounds of barley flour, then parch it, add
3 pounds of linseed meal, 1-2 pound of coriander seed, 2 ounces
of salt and the quantity of water necessary. To this sometimes
a little millet is added in order to give the paste greater cohesion
and delicacy.
FINE WAFFLES. (Mrs. B.) One pint of sweet milk, 1-2 cup of but-
ter milk, sour cream, or clabber, 2 eggs, i 1-2 pint of flour, and a
piece of lard the size of a small hen's egg, melted and put in the bat-
ter ; beat till perfectly smooth. Have the waffle irons perfectly clean,
and grease and fill them with batter, and bake on bright coals, turn-
ing the irons so that both sides may be browned. Butter as you take
them from the irons.
ORANGE CAKE. (Mrs. O. Hallon, San Jose.) Yolks of 5 eggs,
whites of 2 beat well, i 1-2 cups of sugar, 2-3 of a cup of water,
butter the size of an egg, 2 cups flour. This will be enough to fill
4 large jelly moulds.
COCOANUT BALLS. Remove from the kernels the brown skin, then
grate with a coarse grater ; add equal weight of sifted sugar, and the
white of one well beaten egg. Make into balls about the size of a
$54 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TBA
walnut and bake upon a tin in a moderate oven, of a light brown*
Place the balls upon thin white paper. Remove as soon as taken
from the oven.
SMALL DROP CAKES. Made of this mixture by dropping a spoon-
ful on wafer paper ; baked in a quick oven.
GREEN CORN GRIDDLE CAKES. Make a batter of 3 or 4 eggs, 2
cups of flour, a little salt and water, milk or meat broth, (boiled with-
out vegetables), if you have it ; grate 6 or 7 ears of green corn,
into this mixture ; bake on griddles. Serve hot with butter. Canned
corn will do for winter.
GENERAL WASHINGTON'S BREAKFAST CAKE. (Genuine.) Make a
thick mush of white corn meal and water, add some salt and a little
butter, and drop in small cakes, 1-2 inch thick, on a hot griddle ;
butter well and serve.
FRYING GRIDDLE CAKES. Before applying your batter, rub the
griddle with dry salt, then rubbing off carefully before oiling, which
will cause them to turn easily. Corn, griddle and buckwheat cakes
are nicely turned when thus treated.
TEA CAKES. (Mrs. Jos. Mayo, Richmond, Va.) Two Ibs. of flour.
1-2 Ib. sweet butter, yolks of 3 eggs, a teaspoonful of saleratus, dis-
solved in a teacup of water and a dessert spoonful of vinegar. Flavor
with mace.
NEW ORLEANS TEA CAKE. Three Ibs. of flour, or bread crumbs,
i 1-2 Ibs. of sugar, 3-4 of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of caraway seeds,
i small teaspoonful of soda, and 1-2 pint of milk. Roll out and
bake in thin cakes.
MY COLORED MAMMY'S COOKIES. Five eggs, i 1-2 cups of but-
ter, 3 cups of fine white sugar, 5 cups of flour or mace, 3 spoons of
cream, spice to taste. The dough should be soft ; then roll out to a
thin sheet, and cut in small cakes in what form desired Bake in a
fast oven until a light brown and crisp. Brush them over with a
clean feather, or soft rag, dipped in a solution of sugar and water,
quite thick.
BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. (A plain family dish.) Six apples, 3-4
Ib. of suet crust, (see recipe) sugar to taste. Pare and take out the
cores of the apples, dividing them, and make 1-2 Ib, of suet crust,
(by recipe), roll the apples in the crust, previously sweetening them
with moist sugar, and taking care to join the crust nicely ; when they
are formed into round balls, put them on a tin and bake them for 1-2
an hour or longer. Should the apples be very large, arrange them
pyramidically on a dish, and sift over them some powdered sugar.
These may be made richer, by using one of thepuft pastes instead of
suet. Bake from 1-2 to 3-4 of an hour. Sufficient for 4 persons.
SWEET DUMPLINGS WITH ALMONDS. Pound very fine, a oz. of
BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA. 355
peeled sweet almonds, put them in a dish with 2 tablespoonfuls of
flour, fine sugar and cinnamon, stir this with 3 eggs for 1-2 hour, put
them into sweet sauce, or into wine sauce.
LEMON DUMPLINGS. One half a pound of grated bread, i -4 Ib-
of chopped suet, 1-4 Ib. of moist sugar; mix well together, adding
lemon peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten the eggs
well with strained lemon juice. Stir well.
SHELLS. Take 2 tablespoonfuls each of sweet milk and white
sugar, i of melted butter, 2 eggs ; stir all together till perfectly smooth,
then add flour till stiff enough to roll, cut the size of a walnut, roll
very thin and round on a floured board, and cook in boiling lard,
or oil, holding them in with a fork till done.
CORN MUFFINS. Four cups of sifted meal, a lage spoonful of but-
ter, 4 cups of sweet milk, a large pinch of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of
of yeast, and one of sugar or molasses. Bake i hour in shallow pans
in rings, after rising 4 or 5 hours.
MUFFINS, CINNAMON. One teacup sour milk, nearly 1-2 cup of
sugar, i egg, i tablespoonful cinnamon, make thick with flour and
stir till smooth. Bake in gem pans.
ORANGE FOR DESSERT. May be put in fruit dish stands or baskets,
or the skin may be slit into eighths, half way down, then with the
bowl of a teaspoon tnrn the peel either outward or inwards so that
that the peel can turn either way, showing the yellow and white
halves of the orange. The blossom end of the fruit a little piece
should be cut off, or you can, with a sharp knife, run around the fruit
about half from either end, only cutting through the rind; then with
the smooth handle of a teaspoon, slip between the rind and the fruit,
work it carefully until the halves are free, except at the ends. Turn
the rind without tearing it inside out, making a cap at the end, the
fleecy white fruit between them. This is done by the master of
ceremonies in families who live in the Orient at the conclusion of
dinner. The effect of serving oranges in this way is beautiful and I
have often admired the ease, and great skill with which it is done.
PUMPKIN PIE (ENGLISH.) Take out the seeds and grate the
pumpkin till you come to the outer skin ; sweeten the pulp, add a
little ground allspice, lemon peel and lemon juice ; in short, flavor it
to the taste. Bake it without an upper crust.
PRUNE PIE. The two crusts the same. Cook the prunes, take
out the stones, add sugar and powdered cinnamon to taste, stir in
well and bake between two crusts in a slow oven.
LEMON PIE. i lemon, i cup of sugar, i egg, i teaspoonful of
corn starch, 3 teaspoonfuls of cream, half cup of boiling water. Bake
with upper and under crusts.
LEMON MINCED MEATS. a large lemons, 6 apples, half pound of
356 BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND TEA.
meat, i pound of currants, half pound of sugar, 2 ozs. of candied
lemon peel, i oz. of citron, mixed spice to taste. Pare the lemons,
squeeze them, and boil the peel until tender enough to mash, add to
the mashed lemon peel the apples, which should be pared, cored and
minced, the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced peel, and spices.
Strain the lemon juice to these ingredients ; stir the mixture well,
and put it into a jar with a close fitting lid, stir occasionally, and in
a week or 10 days the minced meat will be ready for use. Suffi-
cient for 1 8 larger or 24 small pies. Seasonable in cold weather.
POLISH TARTLETS. Puff paste, the white of an egg, powdered
sugar: roll some puff paste out thin and cut it into 21-2 inch squares;
brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold down the
corners, so that they will meet in the middle of each piece of paste,
slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg,
sift over some sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for 1-4 hour.
When they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste,
and fill it up with apricot jam, marmalade or red currant jelly. Pile
them high in the center of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the
same preserve that the tartlets are filled with. Bake 15 to 20 min-
utes. Sufficient for 2 dishes of pastry. Seasonable at any time,
N. B. It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small pastry,
such as the preceding, trimmings of puff paste, left from larger tarts,
answer as well as making the paste expressly.
CORN PATTIES. (Mrs. S. M. Kellogg.) Grate i dozen ears of
green Corn, add to it 2 well beaten eggs, withatablespoonful of flour,
a little salt and pepper, beat well and drop in a hot griddle or pan,
well buttered, use part lard, or they will burn.
FRIED CAKE. (Mrs. Patterson.) One and a half cups of sugar, i
cup sweet milk, 2 eggs, i teaspoonful of cinnamon, 5 teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, 5 tablespoonfuls of melted lard, 1-2 teaspoonful of
nutmeg, i quart of flour, a little salt.
CORN MEAL DROP CAKES. -Scald i quart of meal, and stir a des-
sert spoonful of lard in it, when cool, beat 2 eggs in, stir in milk
enough to make a thick batter: grease a stove pan or spider and
drop them from the spoon, to bake until brown. Clabber, with a lit-
tle soda in it, will answer in the place of milk or butter-milk.
BUCK WHEAT CAKES. One quart buck-wheat, i pint of flour, 1-2
teacupful yeast, salt ; mix with moderately warm water into a thin
batter. Beat well, then add yeast, mixing well, and set to rise over
night for breakfast. If the batter should be sour in the morning, add
some soda, according to the degree of acidity.
APPLK JOURNEY CAKES. Three quarters sweet apples, and 1-4
tart apples peeled and chopped fine, a small teacupful of sugar, i
pint of corn meal, and a large spoonful of white flour. Bake in
cakes 1-2 inch thick, on a griddle or oven, 20 minutes.
SWEET SAUCES. 357
SWEET SAUCES.
WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 1-2 pint of sherry, 1-2 pint of
water, the yolks of 9 eggs, 2 ounces of pounded sugar, 1-2 tea-
spoonful of minced lemon peel, a few pieces of candied citron
cut thin. Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs, beat them
and put them into a very close sauce pan (if at hand a porce-
lain lined is best) all the other ingredients, place them over a
sharp fire and keep stirring until the sauce begins to thicken, then
take it off and serve. If it is allowed to boil it will be spoiled,
or it will immediately curdle. To be stirred over the fire for 3
or 4 minutes, but it must not boil. Sufficient for a large pud-
ding. Allow 1-2 the quantity for a moderate sized one. Sea-
sonable at any time.
WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 1-2 pint of melted but-
ter (made of 2 ounces of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, 1-2 pint
of \\ater and salt to taste); see recipe, 3 heaped teaspoonfuls of
pounded sugar, i large wineglassful of some good wine, 3-4 of a
small glassful of brandy; make 1-2 pint of brandy by given recipe,
omitting the salt, then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the
above proportions and bring the same to the boiling point; serve in
a boat or tureen separately, and if liked, pour a little of it over the
pudding. To convert this into punch sauce, add to the wine and
brandy a small wineglass of rum and the juice and grated rind of
1-2 lemon. Liquors, such as moroschina or carocoa substituted for
the brandy make excellent sauces. Altogether 5 minutes ; sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
COMMON WINE SAUCE. Make thin a few spoonfuls melted but-
ter, then add from a tablespoonful to 2 of coarsely pounded sugar
and a glass of sherry with 1-2 glass of brandy, a little grated lemon
peel or nutmeg, or both together are an improvement.
WINE SAUCE. (Miss Spears.) 3 cups sugar, i each of wine and
butter, set the bowl in boiling water for i hour.
WINE SAUCE FOR BREAD PUDDING. 2 cups of sugar, 2 ounces
butter, beaten well together, 2 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separ-
ately, the yolks added and stirred first with the butter and sugar and
then the broken whites, 1-2 pint of wine just boiling hot, but not
boiled ; add to the other ingredients, let the whole get thoroughly
hot, not boiling. Grate nutmeg over the top.
RICH WINE SAUCE. Take 2 ounces of corn starch and 2 ounces
of butter, stir them over the fire till the butter melts and thickens,
add 1-4 pound white pounded sugar, i pint Madeira wine or good
white wine, and stir to it the yolks of 8 eggs well whisked ; keep
358 SWEET SAUCES.
constantly stirring until it becomes quite hot, but do not let it boil ;
when sufficiently cooled add the whites of the eggs previously beaten
to a white froth ; serve in a sauce tureen.
SAUCE FOR BOILED PASTRY. Simmer for 1-4 of an hour 1-2 Ib.
of white sugar and a piece of butter as large as an egg in two
cups of water, beat well the yolks of 3 eggs, remove the pan
from the fire, then stir briskly several spoonfuls of the boiled su-
gar into the beaten yolks, then pour all into i pan over a slow fire
and boil very gently till it thickens, stirring constantly ; then season
with lemon or vanilla.
SWEET PUDDING SAUCE. The rind and juice of i lemon, i table-
spoonful of flour, i oz. of butter, i large glassful of sherry, i wine-
glassful of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs. Rub the
lemon rind into some lumps of sugar, squeeze out the juice and
strain it, put the butter and flour into a sauce pan, stir them over
the fire, and when of a pale brown add the wine, water and strained
lemon juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on the
lemon, stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet ; when
these ingredients are well mixed and the sugar is melted put in the
beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens,
when serve. It will be spoiled if allowed to boil. Altogether for
15 minutes ; sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 2 teacupfuls sugar, i tablespoonful fresh
butter and i wineglassful of wine melted together and i tablespoon-
ful of flour mixed in a cup of cold water poured in ; season with
nutmeg or lemon peel.
CREAM SAUCE. Boil 1-2 pint of cream, thicken it with i tea-
spoonful of corn starch, arrow root or flour, a large lump of butter,
with sugar to taste ; when cold add either wine or brandy.
PEACH AND TOMATO SAUCE. Peel and slice i part rich, sweet
peaches and 2 parts sweet and well ripened tomatoes, mix them
thoroughly and let them stand where it is cool for an hour before
serving. Very rich, sweet muskmelons may be cut up and mixed
with the tomatoes in the place of the peaches.
CRANBERRY SAUCE. Allow 12 ozs. sugar to i Ib. of fruit, boil the
syrup, and when well skimmed put in the berries and boil till clear.
NOTE If for preserves, allow equal weight of sugar and fruit
and add water in the proportion of 1-2 pint to 2 Ibs. Make as for
sauce.
MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE. Grate the sugar until you have a cupful,
add to this a cup of hot water, stir till melted, simmer for a few
moments, then put in a tablespoonful of butter, and serve with boiled
rice.
SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. (Mrs. B.) Make a sauce of five
SWEET SAUCES. 359
beaten eggs, some white sugar, a gill of milk flavored with lemon ;
stir over the fire till it becomes as thin cream ; do not let it boil; add
2 wineglasses of brandy ; serve hot in a sauce tureen.
EGG DRAWN SAUCE. (A Chicago Recipe.) Take a tumbler of cold
water, add a well beaten egg, pour into a sauce pan, and set it on a
stove to boil slowly, until it thickens. Stir in a dessert-spoonful of
butter. Wine and sugar may be added. It is excellent with pud-
dings. Try it.
HARD CREAM. (A Cincinnati Recipe.) Take 2 cupfuls of loaf
sugar, finely pulverized, i teacupful of butter, which cream, until
white and springy, then mix the sugar and butter till like cream. Stir
in as much wine as it will take, or cream with any extract preferred,
place it slightly heaped on a glass or silver plate. It makes an ele-
gant sauce for bread pudding, or any kind of boiled puddings. By
stirring to it a large tablespoonful of stiff apple or quince jelly, or the
grated rind and juice of an orange, or lemon, this sauce may be
varied.
COLD STRAWBERRY SAUCE. Rub the strawberries through a sieve,
add to the juice an equal quantity of madeira, an orange, grated in
sugar, and its own juice with a small spoonful of starch, boiled in
water.
SAUCE FOR ANY KIND OF VEGETABLES. Take a piece of butter,
the size of a hen's egg, and set it over the fire, with pepper, salt and
a little parsley, and an onion chopped very fine. Add a teaspoon-
ful of flour, let it brown to a light yellow, then add a teacupful of cold
water, thin it with new milk to the desired consistency, then pour
over green beans, cabbages, green corn, lima beans, asparagus
spinach, etc.
COCOANUT SAUCE. Put a grated cocoanut over the fire with 3
yolks of eggs, a cup of cream, i oz. of sugar, and 1-2 a glass of Mo-
raschino ; work together well ; when set, serve in a boat.
CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. (German Recipe.) One
pound of cherries, i tablespoonful of flour, i oz. of butter, 1-2 pint of
water, i glass of port wine, a little grated lemon peel, 4 pounds of
cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, sugar to taste. Stone the
cherries and pound the kernels in a mortar to a smooth paste, put
the butter and flour in a sauce-pan, stir them over the fire till of a
pale brown, then add the cherries, the pounded kernels, the wine and
the water; simmer these gently for 1-4 hour or until the cherries are
quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair sieve, add the other
ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5 minutes, and serve. This
is a delicious sauce, to serve with boiled batter pudding, and when
thus used, should be sent to the table poured over pudding. 20
minutes to 1-4 an hour to boil. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons,
360 SWEET SAUCES.
BOILING SAUCE. One handful of parsley, 2 sweet lemon verbena-
leaves, 1-2 lemon, i carrot, all chopped fine, i soupspoonful pepper
corns, 1-2 soupspoonful cloves, 1-4 good wine-vinegar, 3-4 water,
salt ; for serving hot or cold, on a_ny kind of boiled fish. Boil a few
minutes, put in the fish and simmer till done.
VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE. 1-2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 ounces
sugar, 10 drops essence of vanilla. Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk,
stir these ingredients well together and flavor with the essence of
vanilla, regulating the proportion of this latter ingredient by the
strength of the essence, the size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture
into a small jug or pitcher in a saucepan of boiling water and stir
the sauce one way until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it
will instantly curdle ; serve in a boat or tureen separately with plain
bread or any other kind of dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds
or lemon rind may be substituted for the vanilla when they are more
in accordance with the flavoring of the pudding with which the sauce
was intended to be served. To be stirred in the pitcher lor 8 or 10
minutes. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
OUR MOTHER'S SAUCE. Beat the yolk of an egg, add 1-2 cup of
water, i cup of sugar, 1-2 cup of butter ; put into a sauce pan and
stir over the fire till it is clear and thick. Flavor with vauilla.
ARROW ROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. Mix a small teaspoonful of
arrow root with a iittle cold water and boil a large teacupful of sherry
or raisin wine with sugar enough to sweeten it. Mix the arrow-
root with this and pour over the pudding. It is an improvement to
rub a lump or two of the sugar on lemon peel.
BCRNT CREAM SAUCE. Put 2 spoonfuls of sifted sugar on the fire
in a small sauce pan, stir it, and when quite brown pour slowly in a
gill of thin cream, stirring all the time. To be used as a sauce to cus-
tard or batter pudding.
ANY KIND OF FRUII MERINGUES. Fill an earthen pudding dish
nearly to the top with any kind of stewed fruit, rather moist, then
whisk to a foam the whites of 6 eggs and 6 spoonfuls of white sugar,
then with a spoon lay the froth evenly over the fruit, set the dish in
a moderate oven and bake for 30 minutes; at same time blanch and
beat to a pulp the kernels of the fruit and stir it into the frost-
ing- It improves its flavor.
APPLE JAM (California). Equal quantities of sugar and good sour
apples ; pare, core and chop the apples fine, make a good clear
syrup of the sugar, add the apples, juice and grated rinds of three
lemons and a few pieces of white ginger also grated; boil until the
apples looks clear and yellow. On no account leave out the ginger.
ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY A beautiful supper dish. Take
some very ripe, plump oranges, and with the point of a small pen-
FLOWXS OR FLOATS. 361
knife cut from the stem end of each a. round piece as large as a dime,
then with the end of a tea or salt spoon remove the pulp entirely,
taking pains not to break the peel. Throw these into cold water and
make jelly of the juice, which must be well pressed from the pulp
and strained as clear as possible. Color i -2 with prepared cochi-
neal and leave the other very pale ; when it is nearly cold drain and
wipe the orange rinds and fill them with alternate layers or stripes
of the two jellies ; when they are perfectly coid cut them in quarters
and dispose them tastefully in a dish with a few light branches of
sweet myrtle around them.
N. B. Calf's feet or any other variety of jelly or different blanc-
manges may be chosen to fill the rinds, the colors, however, should
contrast as much as possible.
ORANGE ICING ORANGE DROPS. Mrs. Barringer, N. C. Make
the orange drops by dropping very stiff pound cake on tin plates.
Prepare the icing by beating together orange juice and sugar pounded
till quite stiff. When the orange drops are baked a pale brown, and
are cold, spread this icing over and set in an oven to dry ; put on
only one coat of icing. They are delicious, and look pretty in a
basket of mixed cake.
N. B. They will be much nicer if the pound cake batter is flavored
with the orange juice and grated rind.
FLOWNS OR FLOATS.
APRICOT FLOWNS. Butter a plain or channelled flown circle,
which place either on a baking sheet, or en a tart dish ; line it with
trimmings of puff paste or with thin short paste; cut the paste on a
level with the rim, mask the bottom with a thin layer of sugar, pow-
dered ; upon this sugar range halves of peeled, raw apricots, so as
to pretty well fill up the hollow; sprinkle over sugar. Bake the
flowns in a slow oven for 35 minutes, and serve cold.
Cherry, peach, apple and pear flowns may be prepared according
to the same method.
CREAM FLOWXS. Put into a kitchen basin, 3-4 oz. of sugar, a des-
sert spoonful of flour, add one after another, 4 or 5 eggs. Dilute
the preparation with 4 gills of new milk, press it through a sieve, add
a morsel of zest, orange, or lemon peel ; stir it over the fire for 2
minutes only. Butter a flown mould, line it with trimmings of puff
paste ; it should be thin. Pour the preparation in the flown, after
having removed the zest. Bake it in a very slack oven for 45 min-
utes; as soon as the preparation begins to set, cover it with paper; in
taking it out, sprinkle it with sugar, withdraw the mould, and serve
the flown.
362 FLOWNS OR FLOATS.
FLANCS OF FRUIT. This requires a tin mould, the same as for
raised pies, it must be wiped well with a cloth, butter it, then take
the remains of puff paste, and roll it well, so as to deaden it, then
roll it out a size larger than your moulds, and about 1-4 inch thick,
place your moulds on a baking tin, put the paste carefully in the
moulds, and shake it well, to obtain all the form of the mould with-
out making a hole in it ; put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with
flour to the top, and bake a nice color. It will take 1-2 hour ; then
take out the flour and paper, open the mould and fill it with fruit.
FLOWNS, WITH ANY KIND OF FRUIT, LIKE A VOLAUVENT. These
may be easily made of half puff or short paste, and fill with new
cherries and some powdered sugar over them ; bake together.
Green gages, apricots, or plums of any kind, will require a hotter
oven than lor only flour in it, the fruit giving moisture to the paste.
NOTE. If baked in a slow oven, will be heavy, and consequently
indigestible. These are easily made and equaly good as a side dish.
ANOTHER WAY. If you have no moulds, make 1-4 Ib. of paste,
roll it round or oval, to suit your fancy, 1-4 inch thick, wet the edge
all round about an inch, raise that part and pinch it round with your
thumb and fingers, making a border all round, put on a baking sheet,
fill with fruit, one row, if large, two ; remove the stones and sift sugar
over them, according to the acidity of the fruit ; it will take less time,
too, than if in a mould. Thus, variations can be made with but little
expense and trouble.
FLOWNS OF APPLES. (A pretty party cake.) Take 8 pippins,
Milam, or any firm, large, sweet apples, cut them in 4 pieces, remove
the peel nicely, rub with lemon; put 1-2 Ib. of sugar in a pan, cover
with cold water, juice of a large lemon, boil till a little thick, then
add 1-2 the apples, simmer till tender, put them on a plate, and then
do the other half in the same way, reduce the syrup a little, put the
apples in a bowl, pour the syrup over. When cold, dish in a pyramid
of crust; prepared like the flown of fruit, which should be a jelly of
apple juice. Shreds of orange or lemon peel may be boiled with
the apples. NOTE. Flancs of good eating pears may be made pre-
cisely the same way. They should be cut lengthwise, dividing the
stem in half.
A PLAINER FLANC. Peel 8 pears or apples, and cut them in thin
slices, put them in a pan with a heaped tablespoonful or more of
sugar, the juice and rind of a lemon, the rind chopped very fine, put
over the fire; stir till of a thick marmalade and tender, dish up; melt
and pour over, and serve in a crust.
APPLE SNOW. Take a pinch of powdered alum with 1-2 Ib of
pulp of roasted apples, 1-2 Ib. of powdered sugar, the juice of i good
lemon, and the whites of 3 eggs ; whip altogether for i hour, and
drop on a glass dish.
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 363
FLOATS. (Mrs. Ryland.) Whites of 6 eggs, 5 tablcspoonfuls of
acid jelly, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar; beat until light. Have a bowl
3-4 full of well frothed cream, which has been flavored with wine,
and sweetened to taste; place lightly on top of the first preparation.
FLOAT FOR ANY KIND OF FRUIT. (Mrs. Currie.) Beat well the
yolks of 4 eggs, whisk in 4 cups of new sweet milk, with a good cup
of white sugar. When just come to a boil, pour into a bowl, then
have ready the 4 whites, beaten to a solid foam, and pour this lightly
over the mixture when it is cold, so that it may float Eat with the
fruit.
COOKING FOR THE NEEDY AND INVALIDS.
WITH PROPER CONSIDERATION and household management, and
care taken that nothing is thrown away, or wasted in the kitchen, a
great deal may be turned to account, even in families of moderate
means. Shoulder bones of mutton, so little esteemed in general,
give richness to soups and gravies, if well soaked and mashed before
added to the boiling. They are particularly nourishing for sick per-
sons. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make an excellent
stock for soup. When the whites of eggs are used for jelly, or cpn-
fectionary, or other purposes, an excellent pudding or custard can be
made of the yolks, beaten with sugar and bread crumbs, and sea-
soned nicely. The remains of cold vegetables make an excellent
addition to the soup, with a little rice or pearl barley.
If those who are able, would just take a little trouble in assisting
the poor, the expense would not be felt by them, which they could
vary or amend at discretion. Where cows are kept, a jug of skim-
med milk is a valuable present to the receiver, and a very cheap one
to the giver. When the stove is hot, a large pudding may be baked
and given a sick or young family, and thus made, the trouble is but
trifling. Into a deep coarse pan put 1-2 pound of rice, 1-4 pound of
brown sugar or molasses, 2 quarts of milk, a large spoon of dripping,
set it cold into the oven. It will take a good while to cook, but
will be an excellent, substantial food. A very good meal may be
bestowed in .a thing called brewis, which is thus made : cut a very
thick upper crust of bread and put into the pot where salt beef is
boiling, and nearly ready ; it will attract some of the fat, and when
swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to those who rarely taste
meat.
PLUMS STEWED FOR INVALIDS. With a gill of water and a spoon-
ful of brown sugar in a stew pan throw in i 2 French plums, flavor
with a piece of cinnamon and some thin rind of lemon, let them
stew for 20 minutes, then turn them into a basin to cool ; take them
364 COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
from the syrup and eat dry ; while stewing some add either port,
sherry or claret wine and water.
COOKING RAISINS. When scalded allow them to cook in a tightly
covered vessel not opened until done ; they are plumper and more
palatable, and can be eaten without injury to most dyspeptics.
TOAST. Is much lighter and better made from a loaf that is 24
hours old or more. It is preferable to- cut lengthwise of the loaf,
leaving the crust, bottom and top, than around the edges of the
slices. A fire for toasting should be free from smoke and flame, but
clear and bright. The bread should be held on an iron fork with 2
or 3 tines and a long handle, so that you can stand off and hold the
l>read near enough to toast briskly, and moving it about so as to
toast it evenly and prevent its burning in one part before the rest is
done. Plates should be had hot in readiness, one on which to but-
ter the toast and the other to slip it on after it has been buttered.
It should be buttered on both sides and served as quickly as possi-
ble, and not piled one on another, each round being on a separate
plate. For buttering toast and hot rolls good salt butter answers
very well, but for company fresh is far preferable. Toast for butter-
ing cold or eaten dry should be cut thinner and baked drier than for
buttering hot. The moment taken from the fire it should be put in a
bread rack for the steam to evaporate, and to prevent its being moist,
for if the slices are laid down for a moment and come in contact,
they lose all their crispness, and will not be so much relished.
DUTCH EGG SOUP. Beat up the* yolk of an egg in a pint of wa-
ter, put in a little butter, 2 or 3 lumps of sugar, stir the whole all the
time it is on the fire ; when it begins to boil pour it backwards and
forwards between the sauce pan and the basin till it is smooth and
has gained a froth. It is good when cold.
SCOTCH BROTH. One teaspoonful of pearl barley into i gallon of
cold water and let it boil ; add 2 onions, 2 turnips, 2 carrots cut in
dice and i grated carrot, 2 pounds of scrag or back of mutton, or
thin flank of beef; boil slowly for 3 hours, add salt and pepper to
taste before removing from the fire.
SOUP A LA CANTATRICE An excellent soup ; very beneficial for
the voice. 3 ounces of sago, 1-2 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs,
i lump of sugar and seasoning to taste ; i bay leaf, if liked, 2 quarts
of medium stock. Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it
be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock, simmer for 1-2 hour;
when it shall be well dissolved Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to
them the boiling cream, stir these quick in the soup and serve im-
mediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle ; forty
minutes to cook it ; seasonable at any time ; sufficient for 8 persons.
N. B. This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 365
eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and
throat. In various quantities and in different preparations these
have been partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including
the celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and as they have
avowed, always with considerable advantage to the voice in singing.
ECONOMICAL SOUP. Put 4 ounces of clean pearl barley and as
much onion sliced into 5 quarts of wa'er, let them boil gently one
hour and pour it off, then put into a pan about i spoonful of gravy,
clarified suet or fat bacon minced. When this is melted stir there-
in 3 spoonfuls or more of oat or corn meal and make the whole
into a paste; next add gradually the brolh and bring it to a boil ;
season with cayenne, black pepper or allspice. The flavor may
be increased by garlic, shalot or some more onion.
A NEW DIETIC SUBSTANCE FOR THE SICK Dr. Goodman, a
member of the British Medical Association. This artificial febrine,
as food, when taken into the stomach creates a feeling of want,
rather than a decrease of appetite. The production of this sub-
stance is within the reach of every sick man, and is effected with
great facility. It is found by exposing albuminous material to the
operation or influence of cold water for a given period, and on ac-
count of its great plenteousness the ordinary hen's egg is employed
for its production. When the shell is broken and removed, and its
contents are immersed in cold water for 12 hours or so, they are
found to undergo a chemico-molecular change and become solid
and insoluble. This change is indicated by the assumption by the
transparent white of the egg of an opaque and snowy white appear-
ance, which far surpasses that of an ordinary boiled egg. The pro-
duct and the fluid in which it is immersed must now be submitted to
the action of the heat to the boiling point, when the febrine will be
ready for use.
NOTE As a febrine material it is highly nutricious and eminently
adapted to all cases where there is a deficiency of febrine in the
blood. It is perhaps unparalleled in its quality of lightness and
digestibility, and is, moreover, a great delicacy. In many urgent
cases of rejection of. food, &c., it will remain when an otherwise
cooked egg would not be tolerated by the stomach.
SOUP FOR INVALID. To a pint of warm water add 2 tablespoon-
fuls of cod liver oil, shake them well until they are thoroughly in-
corporated. Take a clove of garlic that has been steeped for some
24 hours in senna tea and shred it into the liquid, season with rhu-
barb and magnesia. Some forcemeat balls of the same size and of
the samS material as antibilious pills. Brown with a salamander and
serve.
BROTH EEL, VERY STRENGTHENING. After cleaning a small eel
366 COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
cut it in slices, then put them into a small sauce pan just covered
with water, add 2 button onions, a few sprigs of parsley, a clove, a
little salt, then simmer very gently until the eels are tender, when
skim off the fat, pour the broth over a sieve or strainer into a cup.
It can then be served to the invalid, but only one spoonful should
be taken at a time.
NOTE The patient may be allowed to take some of the eel
served with a little melted sweet butter and parsley.
CHICKEN OR HEALING BROTH FOR THE SICK. Cut up the young
fowl and put it to stew in 6 cupfuls or 3 pints of water, let it boil,
removing the oil as it rises ; add a pinch of salt and mace to taste,
as invalids require salt. Wash 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley in
different clean waters until it ceases to be milky, and put this into
the chicken water, then also add i ounce of marsh mallow root, cut
up fine for the purpose of extracting its curative properties; boil i
hour, then strain, bottle and keep ready for use, when it can be
warmed over.
ICELAND OR ANV OTHER Moss, AND CHICKEN BROTH. Wash your
chicken, young and tender, thoroughly, divide it into four parts, re-
move the lungs and place it in a stew pan with 4 ounces of the moss,
a little salt and 6 cups of water, boil 3-4 of an hour on the corner of
the stove, then strain it through a cloth and serve.
IN boiling eggs for invalids let them get very hot, or the white just
set. If boiled hard they will disagree with the patient, he not being
able to digest it.
SHANK BROTH OR JELLY, CHEAP AND VERY NOURISHING. Let
12 mutton shanks soak four hours, then scour them very clean; put
them into a stewpan with a bit of lean beef, a crust of very brown
roasted bread, and, (if possible) an onion or any kind of herb and
flour ; add 4 quarts of water, and let it boil as gently as possible for
5 or 6 hours, then strain off. It will be a nice jelly and keep good
for several days.
RICE BLANC MANGE. Steep four ounces of well washed and
perfect rice in water ; let it drain and boil to a mash in new milk
with sugar, a bit of lemon peel, and a stick of cinnamon. Take care
it does not burn, and when quite soft, pour it into cups, or a shape
dipped in cold water. When cold turn out. Garnish with jelly.
FRENCH MILK PORRIDGE. Stir oatmeal into a small portion
of water, and let it stand until clear, then pour off the water and pour
fresh upon it. Stir it well and let it remain unHi next day. Strain
through a fine seive and boil the. water, and while doing s'o add the
milk. This should be served with toast for the breakfast *bf weak
persons.
THICKENED MILK. Good for diarrhea in old or young persons.
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 367
The nicest way to make it. Take 1-2 gallon of morning's milk, not
skimmed, and put on to boil, skimming occasionally, break a fresh
egg into flour well salted, stir it, and rub it between the hands until
all the flour that can has been worked into it, then just as the milk
reaches the boiling point, scatter it in, stirring all the time one min-
ute will have cooked all the lumps ; pour into a basin, and then add
a good lump of butter. This is a good and safe food any time of
the year. Note. Always have 1-2 cupful of water in the kettle
before the milking is put in, as that will prevent it from burning.
TIGER'S MILK. An Indian Morning Draught. Beat the yolks
of 3 eggs, add 2 table spoonfuls of powdered sugar, 3 cloves, the
thin rind of 1-2 moll lemon, and 1-2 pint of brandy; pour over it
a quart of warm new milk, grate 1-4 nutmeg over it, and serve
immediately.
MILK CREAM FOR THE SICK. HUNGARIAN. Stir the yolks of
one or two fresh eggs and sugar together, and i pint of new milk, i
table spoonful of rum or arak, allowing i table spoonful of sugar to
one yolk of egg, which roll together until smooth.
RICE MILK SEASONED (FRENCH) FOR INVALID. This, with riz au
lait is nutritious for those who are recovering from a long illness.
Drain a table spoonful of well washed rice, put it into a stewpan
with two cups of milk, as soon as it boils, let it simmer until quite
tender; add an oz. of butter, 2 teaspoonsful of sugar, a little salt
and stir until well mixed, and serve when required. It must be of
the thickness of common, well made water gruel. If wished add a
few drops of orange flower water as the French do.
LIQUID NOURISHMENT FOR SICK STOMACHS. D. M. J. One
well-beaten egg, to which add 2 cups of milk and salt to make it
palatable ; let it be boiled, and when cold, any quantity may be
eaten. Note. It is useless if it turns to curds and whey.
EGGS FOR THE SICK. Fresh eggs are a great comfort to many
invalids. As soon as possible, after an egg is laid and cooled, dip it
in a vessel of glycerine or gum arabic, dissolved with water to the
consistency of new, warm milk, put them away in charcoal dust
or fine dry sand in a cool place or dry cellar, and they will remain
fresh for weeks.
FOR POACHING EGGS. Each egg must be broken into separate
cups, and from there carefully slipped into a large frying pan of
boiling water. As soon as the whites become hard they are
done enough and must be taken up with a spoon or flat shovel and
slipped into a dish on toast and butter or rice, on sausage or on a dish
with butter melted and pepper.
COCOA. Cocoa is better than chocolate for weak stomachs ; while
it imparts equal nourishment, it is better of disgestion and is made
368 COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
/
by boiling in water for a considerable time, then pouring off and
mixing with warm milk and sugar to taste; 2 dessert spoonsful
will make a pint. If pure, it will nearly all dissolve. The cocoa
paste is now very much in use, both as chocolate and cocoa. It
is good and the method of preparing it, simple. Stir a large tea
spoonful of the paste into a cupful of boiling water. This makes
a cupful of nice chocolate, add sugar and milk to taste. A much
smaller quantity of the cocoa paste will do, but a sugar pudding
of milk is generally used. Cakes or toast is commonly eaten with
little chocolate and cocoa.
HONEY OR TREACLE POSSET. Into 1-2 pint of boiling milk, or,
milk and water, stir a large spoonful of honey or treacle, let it boil
up quickly, then set it aside for the curd to settle, and when it has
done so, strain it for use.
SACK POSSET. Beat 12 eggs and strain them ; then put 1-2 pound
of lump sugar into a pint of white wine, mix the same with the eggs.
Set the whole over a chafing dish and keep it stirred until scalding
hot. In the meantime, grate some nutmeg into a quart of milk and
heat it ; then pour it over the eggs and wine, holding your hand high
while doing it, and stiring all the while ; then take it off, set it
before the fire and it will be ready.
WINE POSSET. Boil a quart of new milk with the crumb of a
penny loaf, until the bread is soft ; then take it off, grate therein 1-2
nutmeg and some sugar, put it into a basin with a pint of port wine,
very gradually, or it will make the curd hard and rough. Serve with
toast.
ALE POSSET. Boil a slice of bread in a pint of new milk; take a
bottle of mild ale in an earthen dish or china bowl ; season and
sweeten to suit ; then pour the boiling milk over it; when the bread
rises, serve it.
MILK THICKENED. Boil i quart of milk and wet 3 table spoonsful
of- fine sifted flour, roll it up in a soft smooth paste, and when the
milk boils up, stir it in and continue to stir and boil for ten minutes ;
add a pinch of salt to the milk, and when done, sweeten it to taste
and grate nutmeg over it.
STRENGTHENING JELLY. One ounce each of rice, sugar, pearl
barley ; boil in two quarts of water until reduced to 1-2. Strain in a
mould, sweetened and flavored to taste. A tea-cupful night, noon
and morning.
IRISH Moss TO PREPARE FOR THR SICK. Soak a scant hand-
ful of Irish moss in strong soda water until it swells ; then squeeze
the moss until it is free from water ; put it in a tin bucket which
contains 6 pints of pure milk ; set the bucket in a large iron pot which
holds several pints of hot water ; stir seldom, and let it remain until
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 369
it will jelly slightly by dropping on a cold plate ; strain through a seive
sweeten and flavor to taste. Rinse a mould or a stone jar with
warm water, not hot; pour in the mixture and set it away to cool.
In a few hours it will be palatable, eat with cream and sugar. Some
prefer jelly.
OMELET FOR THE SICK. A Nebraska receipt. Four eggs well
beaten, 5 table spoonsful of sweet milk put in the eggs ; i table-spoon-
ful sweet butter or lard (fresh), put the iard in the pan ; when thor-
oughly heated, pour in 1-2 the eggs, when nicely brown roll it over ;
then cook the other half in the same way.
FOR DEBILITY OR Loss OF APPETITE. Eat a lemon with or
without sugar before breakfast for a full week ; is better than
medicine. Sometimes cures consumption.
ANOTHER. Put 12 lemons in cold water and bring them slowly
to a boil, then boil slowly until the lemons are soft, then roll them a
little and squeeze until the juice is extracted, then sweeten with
sugar ; use this in one day until you are better. If they produce
pain, use only five or six a day until you are better, and then begin
to use twelve a day again. After using five or six dozen, the patient
will gain flesh and enjoy food ; then still continue the use of the
lemons for several weeks more. This is valuable in sickness at
any time. Note. To keep it well after boiling strain the
juice, and to every half pint, add i Ib. of loaf or crust sugar ; then
boil a few minutes until the sugar is dissolved, skim carefully and
bottle closely. You get more of the juice by boiling them and it
keeps better.
BARLEY MILK FOR CONSUMPTIVES. Boil 1-2 Ib. of washed pearl
barley in one quart of milk and a tumblerful of water and sweeten ;
boil it again, and drink it when almost cold.
CAUDLE. This was formerly and unanimously used as a tonic, as
well as nourishing to women immediately after their confinements ;
but it is now considered highly injurious from its heating tendency,
both to mothers and their infants, which are now confined to more
simple and rational diet. Candle has given place to coffee and sim-
ilar morning refreshments. It has gone out of use except as a
luxury.
CAUDLE. Make a thick gruel or very thin mash of common oat
meal ; for every cup of caudle required, allow 2 or 3 table-spoon-
ful of the purest and best brandy, or 2 of brandy and 2 of pure wine,
i spoonful of moist sugar, a few grains of spice and a little nutmeg.
These should be put in a jug ; large enough to contain the whole ;
pour the gruel to them boiling hot, and well stirred up ; then pour it
into cups or glasses and serve with cakes, biscuits or dry toast.
BEEF TEA, SOYER'S, NEW WAY FOR INVALIDS. Take a pound of firm
370 COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
beef, and cut into very small pieces, and put it into a stew pan with
a teaspoonful of butter or more, 2 button onions, a salt spoonful of
salt, a clove. Stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes,
until it produces a thin gravy, then add 2 pints of water; let the whole
simmer over the corner of the stove or fire for 30 minutes, removing
all the fat ; as soon as done, strain through a sieve. Passing broth
through a cloth often spoils its flavor. NOTE. If the invalid wants
it plain, the vegetables, clove and salt may be omitted.
A BAKED SOUP. Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices,
2 onions, 2 carrots, cut in pieces, 2 large spoonfuls of rice, 2 cup-
fuls of split peas, or whole ones, if previously soaked, pepper and
salt into an earthen jug or pan, and pour i gallon of water, cover
it very close and bake it with the bread. The cook should be
charged to save the boiling of every piece of meat, ham, tongue,
&c., however salt, as it is easy to use only a part of that and
the rest of fresh water, and by the addition of more vegetables,
the bones of the meat used in the family, the pieces of meat that
come from the table unused, rice or barley or oatmeal, gal-
lons of nutricious soup can be made several times during the
week. The bits of meat should be only warmed in the soup and
remain whole ; the bones, &c., boiled till they yield their nourish-
ment. Take turnips, carrots, leeks, potatoes, the outer leaves of
cabbage, celery, or any sort of vegetable that is at hand ; cut them
small and strew in with the thick part of peas after they have been
pulped for soup and grits or coarse oat meal. In every family there
is some superfluity, and if it be prepared with cleanliness and care,
the benefit will be very great to the receiver and the comfort and
satisfaction no less to the giver.
What a relief to the laboring husband, instead of bread and cof-
fee to have a warm, comfortable meal. How important to the aged,
sick and infant branches, nor less to the industrious mother, whose
forbearance from the necessary quantity of food that others may
have a larger share, frequently reduces that strength upon which the
welfare of her family essentially depends. Fish affords great nourish-
ment, and that not by the part eaten only, but the bones, heads and
fins, which contain isinglass. When the fish is served, let the cook
save some of the water in which it has been boiled, add some
drippings, an onion or two, some pepper, a little rice flour rub-
bed into it after it has stewed, season with parsley or celery. It
makes an excellent broth. The gravy of the fish may be added
also, but strained. It makes a delicious improvement to the meat
soup, particularly for the sick, and when such are to be supplied
the milder parts of the spare bones and meat should be used for
them, with little, if any of the liquid of the salt meats. As the
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 371
poor like it, and are nourished by it the fat should not be taken
off the broth or soup. There is not a better occasion for charita-
ble commiseration than when a person is sick ; a bit of meat or
pudding sent unexpectedly has often been the means of recalling
long-lost appetite.
Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receivers; for in the
highest houses a real good, sick cook is rarely met with, and many
who possess all the goods of fortune have attributed the the first
return of health to an appetite excited by " kitchen physic."
It rarely happens that servants do not second the kindness of their
superiors to the poor ; but should the cook in any family think the
adoption of this plan too troublesome, a gratuity at the end of the
winter might repay her, if the love of her fellow creatures fail of
doing it a hundred-fold. Did she readily enter into it, she would
never wash away as useless the peas or grits of which soup or gruel
had been made ; broken potatoes, the green heads of celery, the
necks, heads and feet of fowls, the shanks of mutton, and various
other articles, which, in preparing dinner for the family, are thrown
aside.
AN EXCELLENT SOUP FOR THE WEAKLY. Put 2 cowheels and a
breast of mutton into a large pan with 4 ounces of rice, i onion,
20 very small red or green peppers, and 20 black ; a turnip, a carrot
and 4 gallons of water; cover with brown paper and bake 6 hours.
CAUDLE FOR THE SICK AND LYING-IN. Set 3 quarts of water on
the fire, mix smooth as much oat meal as will thicken the whole with
a pint of cold water ; when boiling pour the latter in and 20 very
small Jamaica peppers in fine powder; boil to a middling thickness,
then add sugar, a cupful of well fermented table beer and a glass of
gin ; boil all. This mess of broth taken once or twice will be
of incalculable service.
SCOTCH BREWIS. A strengthening dish.--Pour the desired quantity
of boiling milk into the proper quantity of oatmeal in a bowl and
stir it till it somewhat cools, add a pinch of salt, and without further
preparation eat it. It is very sustaining.
PRESENTS of bed-clothing, cast-off garments, such as old flannels,
stockings, socks, body linen, shoes, bonnets, &c., are often very ac-
ceptable to the poor, particularly in winter, when a warm wrapping
of any kind, or some fuel would augment their comfort immeasura-
bly.
MILK PORRIDGE. Great care should be bestowed on the quality
of the milk used for invalids and infants. First, especially, that the
milk be fresh and sweet, for a smaller proportion of fresh, new milk
diluted with water is greatly prefirable to a larger quantity of that
from which the cream has been removed. Second, that it is by all
37 2
COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
means best to avoid boiling the milk. The other ingredients should be
well boiled and of sufficient thickness to admit the milk being stirred
in to cool and to thin it. Either grits or oatmeal gruel will answer
the purpose, to which has been allowed double the usual proportion
of thickening, and in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled ;
when strained off add an equal quantity of new milk, a little nut-
meg and if wished a small piece of fresh butter. Some persons
prefer salt rather than sugar or nutmeg.
ARROW ROOT (Indian.) It may be made either with milk or with
wine and water ; a tablespoonful makes 1-2 pint. It must be made
into a paste with milk or cold water and worked until no lumps re-
main, increasing gradually the milk or water to 2 spoonfuls, then
stir it into the remainder while boiling; when it boils a minute or
two it will do. If made with milk it may be flavored with nutmeg
or cinnamon, sweetened with loaf sugar (heavily), or according to
the state of the bowels. If confined, moist sugar is better, if not,
use the loaf. If arrow root is to be made of wine, a glass of white
wine or a large spoonful of good brandy is the quantity for 1-2 pint.
The sugar, wine and water may be boiled together and the arrow
root moistened as directed with cold water.
SAGO Soak the grains for one hour in cold water, changing the
water. Simmer with a bit of lemon or orange peel till the grains
appear transparent. When nearly done add nutmeg, cloves, mace,
and allspice, with wine and sugar, all to taste. Then give the whole
a boil up, and it is ready to be dished up.
SAGO. There are two sorts of Sago, the white and the yellow,
but their properties are the same. It is the pith of a species of
palm. Its form is that of a small broad grain or berry. After it has
absorbed the liquor in which it has been cooked, it becomes soft,
transparent, and retains its original shape. Its properties are the
same as arrowroot and tapioca, in an alimentary way.
TAPIOCA. Take a large tablespoonful of tapioca and wash it in
3 or 4 waters ; having done this, let it macerate for five hours in the
water in which it is to be boiled, in a pan by the side of the fire or
stove. Simmer it till quite clear, and add lemon juice, wine, loaf
sugar, or other flavoring ingredients to taste, and a little salt. It
should be boiled in a quart of water till reduced to one-half,
CORN MEAL GRUEL. Mix a portion of meal with cold water, and
then pour into a stew pan of water and let boil 10 minutes; add a
pinch of salt. An excellent drink while under the influence of med-
icine, in ordinary cases, and an excellent drink to take on a fasting
stomach in the morning by those who suffer from constipation.
GRUEL OF GRITS. A good flavored and most nourishing gruel is
made of oats cleaned from the chaff, and slightly crushed ; by some
COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 373
they are called grits, in different parts of the country. The saucepan
used for this purpose should be kept particularly clean and nice, and
of block tin. One-half pint of grits will make 2 quarts of gruel, and
after being strained off, the grits may be boiled again, and will make
i quart more. To prevent it^from burning, the gruel should be
stirred often from the bottom of the saucepan. The first boiling will
require 45 minutes and the second rather longer. When strained off
let it be set by in a clean vessel and in a cool place. In cold
weather gruel should be made fresh every other day, and in warm
weather daily. Some persons prefer a bit of butter and salt ; other as
little sugar and nutmeg ; for sick persons, or women in confinement,
the more simple it is done the better. When made very thick and re-
duced with milk, this gruel forms a good milk porridge ; or thinned
and enriched with wine, spirits, sugar and spices, it is called caudle.
MEAT PANADO. Sometimes, when the stomach is too weak to
digest animal nutriment in a solid form, it can be given in the
form of broth or jelly, when the person has no appetite for meat.
When this is the case, take the meat of a bird, rabbit, squirrel or
chicken, (the white part) partially, but not thoroughly boiled, per-
fectly remove the skin, slice it as fine as possible and beat it in a
mortar to a paste with a little of the liquor in which it was boiled ;
put a pinch of salt and nutmeg and a little scrap of lemon peel ;
simmer it gently for a few minutes, with as much of the liquor as will
bring it to the thickness of gruel. Beef, mutton, veal or venison
roasts may be prepared in the same way, with a little of the gravy
from the dish, if there be no butter in it. The white meats are the
the most easily shredded. Or, it is a very good way, when a person
cannot eat solid food, and yet needs nourishment, to lay two or three
small pieces of toasted bread in the dish with the roast joint of meat,
and as the gravy flows out let it drip on the bread till it is thoroughly
moistened.
DIET FOR CONVALESCENTS. An emulsion of raw meat 8 oz.,with
21-2 oz. each of sweet and bitter almonds and white sugar, beaten
together in a mortar until thoroughly incorporated. The almonds
should be blanched. This compound may be beaten up with milk
and water to any consistency.
DR. RATCLIFF'S RKST. RATIVE PORK JELLY. Take a leg of well fed
pork, just as cut up, beat it, and break the bone. Set it over a gentle
fire with 3 gallons of water, and simmer to one. Add 1-2 oz. mace,
and the same of nutmeg, stew it, strain through a sieve when cold,
and take off the fat. Give a chocolate cup the first and last thing in
the morning, evening, and at noon. Putting salt to taste.
TAPIOCA. Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash 2
or 3 times, then soak it in fresh water 5 or 6 hours, and simmer it in
374
COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
the same until it becomes clear ; then put lemon juice, wine and
sugar. The paste should have been boiled in it. It thickens very
much.
EGG DRINK FOR WEAK INVALIDS. Take an egg, or the yolk of it,
beat it well with sugar, then pour gradually enough brandy or pure
whiskey to cook it, stirring all the time; or it can be beaten sepa-
rately, stirring sugar to the yolk, then pour in the spirit; then enough
milk to nearly fill the tumbler, then add the beaten white.
HOMEOPATHIC INVALID CAKES. Mix to the consistency of rather
a stiff paste, i cupful of fine flour and some good cream, roll out as
thin as a wafer, make in cakes as large as a coffee cup, prick them
with a fork on both sides, bake in an iron pan. Excellent for an
invalid.
HERB TEAS. Mint tea will sometimes relieve nausea; use, if pos-
sible, the green leaves. Tea, of the white raspberry leaves
with a piece of salt peter as large as a pea to a tumblerful of tea, is
good for stranguary. Tea of mullen and sassafras will purify the
blood. Cold teas of flax-seed and slippery elm, are good for colds,
coughs, influenzas, etc. A little lemon juice is a valuable addition.
Balm, catnip, pennyroyal, and sage, are good drinks in fever, to pro-
mote perspiration. Use green or dried leaves in making these in-
fusions.
FOR THE SICK. (A Scotch Recipe.) Take the bran of oat-meal,
soak it for one week, or until it sours, strain it. Let it settle, then
pour off the dark water, then to keep it, occasionally pour off the
water and pour in fresh. To make it, take the thick part, and stir it
up with water, and stir it in boiling water, and boil for 1-4 hour. Let
the patient eat it with fresh sweet milk.
BUMANGE, FARINA, FOR INVALIDS. Mix with a little new milk, i
oz. of farina, with a pinch of salt. Heat the remainder of the pint of
milk on a double boiler, and when simmering, add the mixed farina;
stir it constantly, until it thickens, when it must be turned into wet
moulds. Serve cold, with thick cream, sweetened, flavored, and
whisked till light and foamy. Invalids should not eat anything fla-
vored with vanilla.
CUSTARD PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. Put into a pan, 2 cups of new
milk, with a little lemon peel, and 1-2 a sweet bay leaf for three
minutes, then take out the lemon peel and leaf, and pour the milk on
3 beaten eggs, then stir in a spoonful of sugar, and mix well together;
pour into a buttered form and steam for 20 minutes, by setting the
form in a pan containing boiling water ; let boil slowly until the pud-
ding is done, then turn out on a plate and serve. The water should
be halfway up to the rim of the form
SPONGE BISCUIT PUDDING FOR INVALIDS. Take 2 cups of boiling
CONFECTIONS FOR THE SICK. 375
milk, flavored with lemon peel, which pour over a spoonful of sponge
biscuit, and let it stand for 1-2 hour, then add 3 well whisked eggs,
1-2 oz. of currants, and very little sugor. Pour into a buttered form
lined with seedless raisins, for i hour.
BROWN CAUDLE OR BEER. If made^ of corn-meal the gruel
should be made very thick, enough so to admit of nearly an equal
quantity of good, clear, mild beer, which should be stirred in while
the gruel is over the fire, with a pinch of allspice finely beaten. If
meal be used, it should be mixed with beer, and stirred into an
equal portion of boiling water with pounded allspice a small portion.
Then boiled sufficiently, strain it or not ; whether corn or oat-meal
gruel, to each quart add a large table-spoonful of moist sugar, a rasp
or two of nutmeg, 2 glasses of gin, or rather more than one of brandy.
RAISIN GRUEL FOB THE SICK, (Dr. G.) Boil 1-2 Ib. of raisins,
for one half hour, in one quart of milk and i quart of water; then
strain and squeeze out, and return the liquid into the sauce pan or
vessel and stir in and boil for a minute the article with which you
are to thicken the gruel oat-meal, corn-meal or flour, as the case
may be. The raisins make it sufficiently sweet, no salt is-required,
but a little cinnamon or spice may be added ; when patients are fond
of eggs, or do not object to them, as some do, the yolk of an egg
may be beaten well with a little milk, and stirred into any gruel a few
minutes before it is done boiling. This renders the article more
nutritious, and, when the patient likes it, and can bear it, is a very
good addition.
RICE GRUEL. Take a large table-spoonful of rice flour and mix
to a stiff paste, with cold water; then stir it into the remainder of a
pint of boiling water, and let it boil for 15 minutes with a stick of
cinnamon, and a little rasped dried orange peel ; strain it off,
sweeten with loaf sugar, and add a half glass or more of brandy.
This is commonly used when the bowels are in a very relaxed state,
and it is desired to check that tendency. Much caution should how-
ever, be observed, and, it is seldom safe to venture on the use
of anything of a heating astringent nature without proper medical
advice.
CONFECTIONS AND CONSERVES FOR THE SICK.
PEPPERMINT. Gather the peppermint when full grown and before
it seeds. Cut it into small pieces, put them in a still and cover
them with water; have a good fire underneath and when boiling and
the still begins to drop, if the heat is too great, remove a small por-
tion of the fire away, that it may not boil over. The slower the still
drops, the stronger will be the water. The next day bottle off, and
after standing 2 or 3 days cork well.
CONFECTIONS FOR THE SICK.
BITTER ORANGE SUGAR. Wipe a good sound, bitter orange in a
clean cloth, rub off the yellow part of the peel with the sugar, scrape
this off with a knife, pound and sift it, and keep it well canistered.
LEMON AND ORANGE PEEL can be made in the same way.
VANILLA SUGAR. A small piece of vanilla is dried in a warm
place, then pounded together with 2 oz. of sugar, sifted and kept in
a canister.
Hip. The fruit of a rose, the fleshy part beaten to a pulp and
preserved in sugar, is a medicine slightly cooling and astringent, and
is often used as a basis of other medicines. It is a popular remedy
for ascarides, or pin worms.
CONSERVES OF ORANGE OR LEMONS. Grate the rind of an
orange or lemon in a bowl or dish, squeeze the juice of the fruit over
it, mix the white with a spoon. Then boil some sugar high, mix the
fruit therewith, and when thick enough, put it into moulds.
Conserve of orange peel is made by steeping the rinds in water,
moderately heated, until tender ; and then straining and pounding
them in a marble mortar. After this, the pulp is brought to a proper
consistency over a gentle fire, with the addition of 3 times its quan-
tity of sugar, the white is then rendered to a conserve by beating in
a mortar.
CONSERVE OF ROSES. Take i Ib. of red rosebuds, cleared of
their hulls, beat them well in a mortar, and add by degrees 2 Ibs. of
double refined sugar in powder until reduced to a conserve.
CONSERVE OF ROSE OR THORNBERRIES AND HAWS. Useful con-
serves are made of these hedge fruits, either separately or in equal
parts, the skins, seeds and hair parts must be carefully removed,
and that part alone used which is of itself almost pulp ; then pro-
ceed in the same manner as with roses. A dram or 2 of these con-
serves dissolved in milk is given as a gentle astringent in weakness
of the stomach, phthisical coughs, and spitting of blood ; but to
expect considerable effects, at least three or four ounces should be
taken daily for some time together. In like manner conserves may
be of orange peel, rosemary flowers, sea-wormwood, sorrel leaves,
&c., but none are so valuable as the rose or thornberries and haws.
BLACK PEPPER CONFECTIONS. Sir B. Brodie, P. L. One pound
i ounce each of black pepper and elecampane root, i Ib. 3 oz. fen-
nel seed, i Ib. 2 oz. each of white sugar and honey, this should
always be accompanied by a mild aperient.
CONSERVES OF LAVENDER Used frequently to sweeten the
breath. Lavender flowers i part, lump sugar 3 parts, beat together.
Using twice this weight in sugar, conserves of leaves and flowers are
made in a similar way.
CAMPHOR JULEP. Take one semple (20 grains) of camphor; one
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES. 377
half an ounce of white sugar ; brandy or whiskey a tea spoonful ; hot
water one pint. Pour the spirits on the camphor, rub it thoroughly
with the sugar, and very gradually add the water, constantly stirring
during the operation. Finally strain the whole through fine muslin twice
folded, and bottle it. It is always readjfcfor use, and will keep in
any climate. Note. This is very valuable where a medical man
cannot be called in. It is antispasmodic in nervous and hysterical
affections, convulsive sobs produced by grief, distressing hiccough,
hysterical convulsions, and protracted sickness. The dose may
vary from a half a wine glass full to double that quantity according
to the severity of attack or age of the patient.
CONFECTIONS OF ALMONDS. Sweet almonds 8 oz., white sugar
4 oz., powdered gumarabic i oz. Macerate the whole in cold water
then remove the skins, and beat them with other ingredients until
reduced to a smooth confection.
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND EECIPES.
Genuine autograph recipes copied from a manuscript recipe book
of Mrs. Tisdal, who was Prima Dona to the Duchess of Sunderland,
obtained through the kindness of her daughter, Mrs. O'Neil of San
Francisco, Cal.
To MAKE OYSTER SOUP. Take the bones from a codfish that
had been left at dinner the day before and put them to boil in two
quarts of water, 6 onions, 3 heads of celery, some pepper and salt ;
more than 1-4 pound of butter, some pieces of bread, for 4 or 5
hours ; when boiled strain it through a hair sieve ; beat up the
yolks of 5 eggs and take a little of the soup and cool it, and add
the eggs to it and let it stand in your tureen until you are going to
serve it. Have ready 4 dozen bearded and stewed hot oysters and
add them to the soup.
A FAVORITE WHITE SOUP. Take 2 quarts of stock made of
white meat, about 2 pounds of bread cut in thin slices and boiled in
sweet milk ; when soft-pound it with a silver spoon untill it is quite
smooth. You should add a good piece of mace and a little beaten
white pepper. While it is hot add 2 or 3 ounces of fresh butter,
stir it till it is melted and let it stand until you are going to use it,
then pour it into your stock, give it a boil up and serve at once.
A NEVER FAILING PICKLE FOR BACON, BEEF OR TONGUE, &c.
Add to 4 gallons of water 8 pounds of common salt and i 1-2 Ibs.
of brown sugar ; put the whole, to boil and keep stirring it till the
salt is dissolved. As the scum rises you must continue to skim it off.
When no more froth rises it is sufficiently boiled ; let it stand until
perfectly cold. Lay your meat on a table, shake a little salt over
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES.
and under it and let it purge till the next day. (Of course the meat
must be fresh killed). Then wipe it dry and pack it in the vessels
you mean to keep it in. Tut a convenient weight on to keep the
meat down, for if it is not entirely under the pickle or brine your
meat will certainly spoil and be lost. If the above quantity is not
enough to cover your meat, you must boil what you want with the
same proportions as above directed. If you wish to have your meat
red, add to the above proportions 2 ounces pounded saltpetre. Meat
thus preserved will be good for 10 weeks.
NOTE But if to be preserved for a considerable time it will be
necessary to rub it a little with salt once in 2 months; also when
your pickle begins to fret (spoil), which you may know by seeing a
white scum rise, boil it again, take off the scum, and while boiling
throw in 2 ounces of sugar and 2 pounds of salt. The pickle thus
managed will hold good for 12 months.
NOTA BENE When your meat is to be hung, wipe it perfectly
dry. It is better not to hang it longer than a fortnight before you
use it.
THE BEST METHOD OF MAKING RISSOLE. Mrs. Flinn. Take
chicken, turkey, or any other white meats, mince it fine, then make
a little thick sauce with a small piece of butter, flour, a little gravy ;
put the mince into it and stew it a little, add a little mace, nutmeg,
salt and a very little cayenne pepper. When stewed put it on a plate
until nearly cold, then make the rissoles in round balls, let them
stand until they get firm, then roll them in the beaten-up yolks of
eggs and crumbs of bread, repeating the same twice or three times
until the rissole is looking firm and of the right size; then have ready
some boiling lard, pop them into it, only 2 or 3 at a time, till of a
light nice brown, then put them on a sieve to drain. Serve them
with fried parsley on a napkin.
To CURE HAMS From Wittege, cook to George IV. To a
ham of 1 8 or 20 pounds, take i pound of bay salt, 2 ounces of
saltpetre, i ounce of black pepper ; beat all fine and mix them
together, rub the hams well with it, let them remain in this pickle
for 4 days, turning and rubbing them every day, then put upon
them i 1-2 pounds of treacle, in which let them remain i month,
turning and basting them every day ; then take these out and put
into cold water for 24 hours. They are then fit to be hung up.
NOTE These hams do not require to be soaked previous to use ;
only washed. A Westphalian recipe.
To MAKE A PLUM CAKE, THE VERY BEST METHOD. One pound
of butter^ i of sugar, i 1-4 pound of flour, i 1-2 of currants, 1-2
pound altogether of preserved orange peel, citron and almonds, 8
eggs, a little ginger, allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon, i wineglass of
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES. 379
brandy, t of white wine. You will make the cakes as follows: First
have all your ingredients ready, your flour and sugar finely sifted
and dredged, your currants well washed and dredged, your mould
papered, then take a pan, crock or flat pudding dishjand put your but-
ter in it; if in winter, put it on the hot plate to get a little warm,
then with your hands quite clean beat it to a cream, then add your
sugar, and beat it on until it becomes very white and light, which it
will be, if beaten half or one hour, then add 4 eggs and beat on
for a quarter of an hour longer, then add the other 4, and by degrees
put in the brandy and white wine, then beat in your flour, and when
well mixed put in your fruit and your other ingredients, and when
well mixed put in your mould. Your oven must not be too hot.
Bake i 1-2 hours.
FROSTING FOR THE PLUM CAKE. Put to the whites of 3 eggs as
much very fine sugar sifted as will make it like a stiff paste, then
with a wooden spoon beat and work it in your crock until you
see it is becoming more a liquid, then add by degrees a little more
white f an egg and lemon juice, and beat it until it becomes quite
light, which it will in about three-quarters of an hour: then spread it
on your cake with a knife, first having your cake a little warm from
having it before the fire. It is not necessary that you should ice
your cake the same day you make it ; you need not put it in the oven
when finished, but set it at a distance from the fire and it will get
sufficiently dry.
To MAKE EXCELLENT SPONGE OR SAVOY CAKE. One pound of
sugar, i Ib. of flour and 14 eggs; or i Ib. of sugar, 3 1-4 Ib. of sifted
flour and 12 eggs. Take a pan crock, and put in your eggs and
sugar together, and with a wire whisk, beat them well for 1-4 of an
hour, then have ready your preserving pan of boiling water, and put
your pan crock standing in it, and continue to beat it well, until it
becomes rather more than blood warm then take it out of the warm
water, and beat until cold ; or, if in a hurry, put your crock into cold
water, continuing to beat on until quite cold ; have ready your
shapes, buttered and sugared, and then add your flour gently with a
wooden spoon. Bake i hour in a rather quick oven. NOTE. This
same material, by adding a little more lemon peel to it, will make
Naple biscuit.
To MAKE AN EXCELLENT SPONGE CAKE. Fifteen eggs, 1 2 oz. of
powdered sugar, the juice of 1-2 a lemon, a little of the rind, 12 oz.
of flour, to be prepared as follows: First weigh your sugar and flour,
have ready your pan crock, put in both your yolks and whites of
eggs ; beat with a whisk 5 minutes, then put in your sugar and beat
both well for 15 minutes, then set your crock in boiling water, con-
tinuing to beat it well until the batter becomes luke warm, or about
380 DUCTIKSS OF SUXDERLAND RECIPES.
1-2 an hour, then take it out of the warm water and beat it till quite
cold; or, you may set the crock in cold water for 10 minutes, still
continuing to beat it, until cold, then shake in your flour, lightly stir-
ring it with a spoon, then put it in your shapes, which should be
greased with clarified butter; 45 minutes is sufficient to beat your
batter, 45 minutes to bake it in a moderate oven. I find it better to
bake this cake for a full hour. The above quantity will make three
shapes.
CAKE, SPONGE. A NICE WAY TO SERVE IT. Fill a tall mould with
the batter for sponge cake, and bake ; when you wish to send it to
the table, cut out some of the inside, and pour a quantity of white
wine into it, then fill up the cake with the cream, and also put cream
at the corner of each plate of each guest, when served.
DUTCH CAKE. Two Ibs. of flour, i Ib. of currants, washed, dried,
and picked, 8 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brewers yeast, i oz. of pow-
dered sugar, 4 oz. of butter, with one pint of milk ; let it stand i
hour. Bake i hour in a shape.
HAM CAKES. Cut the remains of a cold ham into small pieces,
fat and lean, pound it in a mortar, season it with a little cayenne
pepper; add about 1-2 a pound of clarified butter, put it into a
mould and bake it for i hour. Let it stand till cold, then dip the
mould in hot water, and it will turn out nicely. When broken, you
will have to put it into another mould, smoother than the first, so on,
until finished.
LEMON CHEESE CAKES, THAT WILL KEEP FOR YEARS. Have 2
large lemons and rub the rinds with one pound of loaf sugar, so that
all the yellow part is removed, place the sugar in a basin, squeeze
the juice of the lemon over ; then add the yolks of 6 eggs, and beat
all well up, and put it in a hot place. Flavor with vanilla, cinnamon,
or any other that may be liked, when required for use. It will keep
a long time. Line your tartlet pan with puff paste, then mix i table-
spoonful of the above mixture with a teaspoon of rich new milk, and
place a little in each tartlet pan.
RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR. This receipt originated with the
maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had a palace at Richmond.
Sift half a pound of dry curd; mix it well with 6 oz. of sweet, fresh
butter; break the yolks of four eggs in another basin, and a glass of
brandy; add to it 6 oz. of powdered lump sugar and beat well to-
gether one very mealy baked Irish potato, cold, i oz. of sweet
almonds, i oz. of bitter almonds, pounded, the grated rind of 3 lem-
ons. Mix these well together, and add to the curds and butter; stir
up well. Line some tartlet pans (previously buttered) with some
paste, fill the pans with some of the mixture and bake quick.
GINGER BREAD NUTS. To i Ib. of the finest flour, well dredged,
DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES. 381
put 1-4 pound of fresh butter, well worked into the flour, then add i
oz. of the best Jamaica ginger, fresh grated and sifted fine; 1-4 oz.
of beaten allspice, 1-2 a large nutmeg, grated, and its weight of pow-
dered cloves, 1-2 Ib. of nice moist sugar, one fresh lemon peel
chopped fine. If approved, candied oranges and citron cut small
may be added, and a good pinch of caraway seed and cinnni on
bark in fine powder, and a small pinch of cayenne pepper, if likcu.
All these ingredients are to be mixed into a smooth paste, with one
pound of good treacle, and after standing a little time, cut into small
pieces, and with the hands made into round balls, and then pressed
flat between the palms of the hands, then set on a pan and baked
in a quick oven. NOTE. About six drops of the essential oil of
caraway seed will do as well as the seeds.
MARINGUES. Beat up the whites of six eggs for 20 min-
utes, and have ready 1-2 Ib. of loaf sugar finely powdered and sifted.
Stir it into the eggs with a spoon, and drop this mixture from a
spoon on - a clean board that has been covered with white sifted su-
gar. Bake them in slow oven for 1-2 hour, and then fill them with
cream, made as follows: Take i quart of cream that is rich and
new, and add 'to it the juice of a lemon, and about i gill of white
wine, beat it with a whisk for 20 minutes, and then sweeten with
powdered sugar to taste. When the maringues are going to be
served, put a spoonful of this cream in one and then adjust another
of the same size to it. They are designed for the second course.
The maringues should be put in moulds of uniform shape, before
baking. NOTE. This cream will do for filling a chantille or sponge
cake.
To MAKE SPANISH PUFFS. Take half a pint of water, add to it 3
oz. butter, put on a hot plate to melt it, then gradually, 3-4 Ib, of
flour, working it in slow with a wooden spoon until it becomes a stiff
paste, then add to it by degrees, 3 eggs (still working with the
spoon) 4 oz. sugar and a little grated rind of lemon. Then
butter a paper, and drop them the size of a hen's egg. And just be-
fore going to table pop them into a boiling pan of lard, paper and
all, and when sufficiently boiled, shake them off the paper on a seive
to drain, and send them to the table quite hot. NOTE. You may,
if you please, open the puffs and put a little sweet meats into them.
QUEEN DROPS. 1-2 Ib. flour, 1-2 Ib. sugar, 3 oz. butter, 30 bitter
almonds, 30 sweet almonds, 4 eggs. The butter a little warmed,
then add the sugar, the eggs beaten well and separately, and the
almonds blanched and pounded fine ; last, add the flour. One tea-
spoonful dropped on paper on a tin pan and baked.
To MAKE PINE SYRUP FOR TEAS. Pare the rind off very thin the
thickness of a crown piece, have some lump sugar pounded and
382 DUCHESS OF SUNDERLAND RECIPES.
sifted through a hair sieve ; then lay a row of sugar at the bottom of
an earthen pan, then a layer of slices alternately till all the pineapple
is in; let them stand for 2 weeks till all the sugar is melted, then put
the whole hi a preserving pan, let them simmer, but not boil ; do
this three days running, then take the slices up and put them on a
sieve to dry, then boil the syrup and skim it ; when cold bottle it,
and keep the slices for dessert.
APPLE JELLY. Take 60 or more of white codlings or any other
white apples, take out the sniffs and stalks, cut them in quarters
without peeling them, put them on to stew on a slow fire, being par-
ticular to stir them frequently ; when they are reduced to a thick
pulp put into a jelly bag and let them drain off till next day; then to
every pint of the liquor, which ought to be thick and rich, put i Ib.
of lump sugar, and to each pint put the juice of i lemon. Do not
add the lemon juice till the jelly has been boiled and well skimmed.
The lemon juice will then clear it. After adding the lemon juice give
it one boil up, and taking it off the fire let it stand for 10 minutes
without touching it, then skim it again and put into small oval pots
for use. The jelly should be quite clear and not highly colored,
which depends on not boiling too long.
THE BEST METHOD OF MAKING APPLE JELLY. Take i dozen of
sound baking apples, core them and cut them in pieces into a clean
sauce pan without removing the peeling, add to them i noggin (a
mug) of water, cover them close on the hot hearth untill they are
stewed to a mash, then strain them through a sieve. The above is
the syrup of which your jelly is to be made. Take 3 dozen of the
best and most juicy baking apples, core and peel them, put them
down in a nice, clean sauce pan, pour the above syrup over them,
cover them and let them stew until they become quite a mash,
then strain it through a jelly bag, and when cold add to every
pint the juice of 2 lemons and a go 
